FOR GARDEW GREEM HOUSE BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Hcnrij W. Sage 1891 ^•■?Z-i7^^^' ^9. RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library SB 413.C55C89 2ded. Chrysanthemums for garden and greenhouse 3 1924 003 419 219 The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31 92400341 921 9 >^^k^ ^^^^B^fPliFc' t^ ^^1 H^^^^^HRs '• 'A^^^'^'^P^fl^^^^H^^K.l^wi^H ^*^' P"W __ ^^^^l ^^J £., -.^ B^^ i^ ^^^^W^ «.s.ie7o .Skmi-Early FLO\vERix(i Single, " Ci.ndekeeea.' CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE. A Practical Treatise on the Propagation and Culture of Early Flowering, Decorative, and Market Kinds ; including the chief Pests and Diseases, and a complete List of Garden Varieties. d B. CRANE, F.R.H.S., F.N.A.G.A., Chairman of the Floral Committee of the National Chrysanthemum Society, and Deputy-President of the National Amateur Gardeners' Association. Edited by T. W. SANDERS, EL.S., F.R.HS., Editor of " Amateur Gardening." Illustrated. Second Edition. LONDON : W. H. C& L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148 & 149, Aldersgate Siree E.C Fully Illiistiated. Price is. net ; by p:i5t is. 2d. Cloth, IS. 6(1. ; by po.st Is. 8d. CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND HOW TO GROW THEM FOR EXHIBITION. J!y J. B. Wrok. A Complete Guide to Growing for Exhibition — Propagation — Potting — Feeding — Timing and Slopping fi>r Northern, Southern, and Midland Growers, etc., etc. t.wNiKiM: \\", H ^^; L. C< 'I.I.I .'Ji"; I ' HJG E, 148 and 149, .Mdersg.itt; .Stretl. FOREWORDS. Vbut great strides have been made during the last few jeare ill the cultivation of the early-flowering and decora- tive types of the Chrysanthemum. Lovers of hardy flowers have taken a keen interest in beautifying their gardens during the early autumn months with the showy, up-to-date varieties of the early-flowering section now in cultivation ; and the trade, moreover, have been strenu- ous ill their efforts to keep pace with the increased demand by raising and placing in commerce greatly im- proved sorts. This increased 2>oj)ularity has in a large measure been due to the efforts of Mr. D. B. Crane, the Author of this volume, in persistently bringing the claims of the early-flowering Chrysanthemum before the readers of "Amateur Gardening " for so many years past. And wlien he crystallised his vast store of knowledge and ex- perience into the contents of this volume a still greater fillip was given to the popularity and extended culture of the early-flowering type of the Autumn Queen. Anyway, it is pleasing to us to find that the first edition of this work is exhausted and a second one desired by the Publishers. This is a proof— if, indeed, any proof were needed— that the author's efforts to educate people to the cfreat charm and sterling value of the early-flowering 4 FOREWORDS. Chrysanthemmtt as a garden decorative plant have met \A'ith the success thej' deserve. And not only has he been successful iu that direction, but in others. He has jiroved conclusively that the de- corative types of Japanese, the Singles, Pompons, and Anemone-flowered, are H]ie\\-ise of equal merit for green- house decoration during the autumn and early winter liionths. It is not every lover of flowers who has the skill, the patience, or the time to devote to the culture of ex- hibition varieties. ^Mr. Ci-ane's idea has been to ,sho\\- clearly that a Tevy beautiful display of floweis may be obtained by anyone capable of growing ordinar\ green- house plants with success. Growers may, indeed, by following his cogent advice, have their lieds and borders gay from July to November, and their gi'i'enlionses a thing of 'beauty from then up to the Xew Year. In the present edition Mr. Crane has revised the very ample lists of varieties and brought them quite up to date. His fully descriptive notes accompanying each variety render the lists of inestimable value. In other respects, too, we have introduced improvements in the text and the illustrations, and we can but hope that this edition \\ill meet with as hearty an appreciation from lovere of the early-flowering and decorative types of the Chrysan- themum as its predecessor. We may add here, foi' the benefit of those who want information on the culture of the large-flowering exhi- bition sorts, that they will find full details and lists of new kinds, with dates for stopping and timing, in Wroe's " Chrj-santhemums, and How to Grow Them for Exhi- bition," issued by the same Publishers at Is. 2d., post free. ' . T. W. S. CONTENTS. Intkoduotiox Chap. Chap. Chap, P.A.KT I.— PROPAGATION I. Stock Plants II. Types of Ccittixgs ... III. TrK/VTMENT of CuTTINCiS IV. Cuttings ix FB.iMEs... V. PR0P.4G.iTI0.\ BY DlVISIO> Part II.— OUTDOOR CULTURE. I. Early and Semi-Early Varieties II. PLANTIX(i III. Ge.neral Treatment IV. Culture A(iAi.NsT Walls i'ART III.— GREENHOUSE CULTURI I. Decorative Varieties II. Final Potting III. Summer Treatment ... IV. Autumn Treatment ... V. Lifting Plants from Outdoors VI. Late-Flowering Varieties P.AGE 7 14 22 2-t .36 :« 42 46 52 5S 01 oc 72 83 92 94 >■' CONTENTS. Part IV.— JiAKKKT CULTURE. < 'lia]>. I. Most Profit.^blk Tyiks 97 -, II. Proi'.\(;ati(in and Cui/itke... ... ... ... 102 ,, III. JIarketini: the Feiiwers ... ... ... ... 110 Part V.— MISCKLLANEOUS. Chap. I. SiiNOee-Flowered Varietie.s ... ... ... 114 II. AXEMOXE-PLOWERED Tvi'K.^ US III. WiNDdW CrLTURE 121 IV. Feokae Decorations ... ... ... ... 124 V. Hints on E.xiiihitini; ... 129 VI. Pests and Diseases , ,,, ... 137 VII. A Few Friends 152 PART VI.— VARIETIES AND SELECTIONS. Chap. I. Earey and Semi-eakey Varieties, List ok .. ]5S ,, II. Earey Feowerinc; Po.mcons, List of 183 ,, III. Sinoee-Feowered Varieties, List of 187 ,, IV. Anemone and Reflexed Varieties, List of ... 193 ,, V. Deooratiye and Market Varieties, List of... 195 Index ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 205 INTRODUCTION. In the books and treatises hitherto pubhshed on the cul- tivation of the chrysanthemum very little has been done to popularise and make known the charms of garden and decorative tyjses of the "Autumn Queen," For several years past we have been urged by one and another to prepare a small work dealing with the practical aspect of this question, and the present time appears to be most opportune. Chrysanthemum literatiu-e abounds in the weekly press, and most of the contributions deal almost exclusively with the flower from an exhibition point of view. Exhibitions of well-grown and highly-developed chrysanthemum blooms, it cannot be derued, have done much to create an interest in the " Golden Flower," and the many societies whose business it has been to promote the cultivation of these handsome flowers are justly en- titled to take credit for what they have achieved. Chrysanthemum Societies — Although chrysan- themum societies generally have done much, fa)- more remains yet to be accomplished. They have all along worked on lines that are too narrow. A florist's ideal is a good achievement to strive after in the cultivation of any special flower, and in the case of the chrysanthemum it is especially so. But, in attaining so worthy an object, the general utih'ty of tlie flower is almost forgotten. S CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Chrysanthemum Exhibitions. — Our chiysanthe- mum shows chiefly exist for the purpose of representing all types of the flower at their best, and, except for the Japanese and incurved sections, in which the former very largely preponderate, other types are but sparsely dis- plaj'ed. The continued observance of this method of ex- hibiting large flowers has made the shows somewhat monotonous ; the displays differing very little from year to year. Large blooms set up in vases have done some- thing to relieve the sameness and monotony of the exhibi- tion, but to those lovers of gardening who delight to see a free display of decorative chrysanthemums, in which disbudded or partially disbudded sprnj's of blossoms are pleasingly displayed, the present comjjosition of our great autumn exhiliitions leaves much to be desired. Here and there, in a few isolated instances throughout the country, an attempt has been nuidc to introduce a class or t\"\-o for chrysanthemums of a decorative character, and generally with distinct success. We have in our mind certain displays in the provinces where classes for naturally-gTown, undisbudded sprays of blossoms were catered for. These were set up in loosely arranged bunches, and impressed all who sav\' them with their grace and beauty, as well as with their usefulness for all forms of indoor decorations. Displays of this kind might very well leceive further encouragement, to the advantage of the chrysanthemum world generally, and to the society afford- ing such facilities in particular. The great autumn fes- tival of the NatioJial Chrysanthemum Society, usually lield in the early days of Nfn-ember, does something in the direction already indicated. Decorative classes are pro- vided in which many of the smaller flowered kinds are brought into use, but in so far as regards bunches of the freely flowered sorts being encouraged by the offering of tangible prizes very little indeed is at present being done. Of course, there are both large and small flowered singles set up in just a few classes, and the same remark applies to the pretty little pompons, which have been sadly ne"- INTRODUCTION. 9 lected for years. If these November exhibitions, now held all over the country, are to retain their hold of the public and to increase in popular esteem, those responsible for their government will have to divert some of their interest in the big blooms, to classes in which the value and use- fulness of the freely-flowered, decorative kinds may be represented. ClIRY.SANTlIEJU'M InDICTM. The parent of present-Jay CUrysantlienmnis. The Decorative Chrysanthemum — The Octo- ber and December shows of the National Chrysanthe- mum Society have an interesting number of classes, comprising exhibits of decorative chrysanthemums. At the former show, the early - flowering garden chrj^santhemums are fairly well catered for; several 10 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. classes embracing exhibits of Japanese and Pompon sorts. Latterly there has been a great advance in the quality of the flowers and in the brightncs'-" of their displays. To the early and serai-early flowering chrysanthemums we may continue to look for great advances. Within the last fifteen years their progress has been quite remarkable. Previous to this period, the number of really good Japa- nese kinds could almost have been counted on the fingers of one hand. In the early nineties, through the enterprise and persistent efforts of French raisers, new and choice sorts were intr-oduced in quick succession. To the late Mons. Simon Delaux, more than to any other raiser, we are, and shall always be, indebted. He it was who, in 1891, sent out no less than one hundred and twenty-five new varieties, and such an event must be considered in no less a light than epoch making. As far as we have been able to trace the course of events since, the chief factor in the subsequent progress of the early-flowering chrysan- themum must be attributable to the impetus this fine set of novelties gave to their culture. In succeeding years English raisers overcame the difficulties peculiar to this country, of procuring pollen for cross-fertilising purposes, with the result that the better sorts of to-day are largely derived from the gardens of English raisers. It is nothing less than astonishing what our own countrymen have achieved during the last few years. Most of their novelties are free-flowering and robust, the flowers also are large and full, and their colours are embraced by the tones and shades of the rainbow. One good point modern I'aisers appear to have had in mind is the production of plants possessing a good bi-anching habit, and a constitution that will carry them through the winter season without impair- ing their health and vigour. In this particular they have Ijeen singularly successful. As a Garden Flower — The dull and dowdy- coloured blooms are things of the past. Mauve, magenta, and Ivitidred shades of colour are completely eclipsed by INTRODUCTION. 11 the more glorious tones of orange, crimson, yellow, chest- nut, and those of other warm hues. By these means the garden in the late summer, and throughout the whole of the autumn is a place as much sought after as during the summer months. The surroimdings may now be com- pletely transformed. Instead of a dull and untidy border of a somewhat bedraggled appearance, the hardy flower garden may be made bright and beautiful for several months. Their culture is simple, as subsequent chapters will prove. Whenonce taken in hand, the grower will never rest satisfied until a larger area is devoted to their display or until all available space is planted. So much for the earlj'-flowering garden kinds, of \Ahich period of blooming may be said to cover the days intervening between the latter part of August and the closing days of October. In manj' instances, when the weather is nice and op)en, their flowering maj' be extended well into November. Japanese and Incurved Types. — The so called decorative chrysanthemums should embrace all types of the flower. At the present time Japanese kinds are chiefly grown for decorative purposes, and the charms and good qualities of those of other types largely ignored. This is a very great pity, as there is an infinite variety, both in form and colour, in the blooms of the incurved and anemone-flowered, as well as hi the pompons and single- flowered kinds. There are incurved varieties, too, that may be grown in the greatest profusion, and that contrast effectively and pleasingly with their more fantastic Japanese rivals. Anemone-flowered Types. — It is time that the chrysanthemum grower brok^ away from the traditions of the past, and devoted his thoughts and energies to the development of all that is interesting and beautiful in some of the comparatively unknown though quaint and interesting anemone-flowered varieties. How many growers of the decorative sorts are familiar with the Anemone- flowered Pompons? Very few, we dare say. Yet, in this 12 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. liiie section, there are some of the most thiinty flowers imai^iiiable, which, if grown freely, and only very partially disbudded, make plants unequalled for the beauty of their display. As plants for the conservatory or for cutting in long sprays, the anemone-flowered pompon varieties are particularly- charming. See also remarks in Chaj)ter II., Part V. The Pompon Section — Tins affords a great wealth of available sorts. Not t\^() sorts are alike in their charac- ter, and they are the daintiest of the dainty for the smaller rece))tacles used for the decorations of the house. The small-flo\^Tred type of the Pompon flowers, of which Snowdrop, the pretty little white sort, is an excellent ex- ample, is worthy of mention. This and its progeny, and others somewhat similar in character, make a niost inter- esting series, and should by no means be neglected. For late flowering they are an invaluable adjunct to the other disjilays made by fitlier types of the chrysanthemum. Sing-le. flowered Types — Too much cannot be said in extolling the merits of the single-flowered varieties. A few years ago the National Chrysanthemum Society de- i.'ided to discriminate between large-flowered singles and small-flowered singles. As a consequence of their definition we have now (juite a large and interesting series of both kinds. The small-flcjwered varieties have much that is at- tractive in theii- form and in the character of their develop- ment in sprays. 'J'liere is nothing coarse or unpleasing in them in any way. In the large-flowered section there are many sorts that are just a trifle larger than the limits of the small-flowered kinds, and of these much that is favom/- able may be said. Some of the singles come into flower in September outdoors, and subsequently (under glass) their ilisplay may be cijntinued well into the new ycai'. Spidery and Thread-petaiied Types. There are also in the decorative sections, the pretty flowers of whid are kuo«'n as spidery, thread-petalle(; C'iitings. (An old stool shaken out of its Howering pot after teing cut down.) The temperature of the cool greenhouse should be main- tained at about forty-five to fifty degrees; this being quite warm enough to promote new growths of a desirable kind. Ventilate the glass structure on every favourable occasion, Hi CHRYSANTHEMUMS. and take care that cold winds and draughts are guarded against. In this way the best interests of the plants are studied, and their future «'ell-being, to some extent at least, ensured. Stock Plants in Pots. The foregoing method of treating the old plants answers the purpose of those «hose demands are somewhat limited. Most growers in private establishments may procure a sufficient sujiplj' of stock b}' leaving the old stools in their flowering pots as already advised, and in the case of most amateur cultivators the same rule holds good. There are many instances, ho«' ever, where growers desire to worli their stocli plants ^eiy hard, and where it is difficult to provide a sufficient (puui- tity of cuttings by the orthodox methods already laid down. Such growers should have recourse to a more drastic sys- tem of treating their stock plants, and for them there are two methods worth following. They should either shake the old stools out of their flowering pots, reduce the ball of soil and roots very considerablj', and repot them in five- incli or six-inch pots, using any soil of a hght and gritty character, potting rather lightly. Or, they should trans- jilant, or, rather, plant out, the reduced stools in specially |a'ej)ared beds of soil on the greenhouse benches. With the limited accommodation that most growers have in late winter and early spring under glass, eitlier method lias its advantages. Less space is i-equired for the accommo- dation of the old stools, and plants treated in this way seldom fail to develop their subsequent growth freely. When planted out on the greenhouse benches, The Management of Stock Plants is a very simple matter, and the saving in time and labour is considerable. Some growers do not hesitate to plant the old stools in soil that has been used pre\ iously for grow- ing chrysanthemums, and results sometimes fully justify their so doing. But, to be absolutely stu'e, it is better to jire- pare a special heap of comjjost, of new and fresh itigre- dieiits, and this should be of a light and open kind. A good PROPAGATION. 17 mixture should comprise three parts nice light loam, two parts flaky leaf-mould and one part coarse silver sand or clean road grit. This well broken up and passed through a coarse sieve, and subsequently well mixed, will make an ideal compost for the purpose. The compost on the benches should be of sufficient depth to properly embed the old stools to their crown, and the soil should be drawn lightly over the latter. It is astonishing what a number of stock plantis may be arranged in beds prepared in this way, and the results are extremely satisfactory. After a day or two has elapsed since the planting, the whole bed should be watered with clear water from a fine-rosed can, and the temperature of the water made as near to that of the glass structure as possible. In a comparatively short time the plants will be seen simply bristling with innumer- able shoots of recent development, and immediately below the surface soil there will be found many others in embryo. Beds of stock plants treated in this way will maintain a supply of cuttings extending over several months, and their quality will be of the best. So much for stock plants of the decorative varieties arranged in the cool greenhouse. Stock Plants in Cold Frames. — The claims of those growers who do not possess a glass house, and who are, or desire to be, enthusiastic devotees of the " golden flower," must not be forgotten. There are few gardens that are without a cold frame or a series of them, and with this adjunct of the garden, they may raise quite a large number of plants for the embellishment of their homes by the aid of a temporary sitructure to flower them in. With a frame-light or two, and canvas strained between stout upright posts, temporary structures, in which to flower the decorative chrysanthemums may easily be made. For such growers, the cold frame in the early days of the year will afford ample protection for a limited number of plants. They may be planted in prepared soil in the frames, and will succeed without a doubt. If left in their flowering pots or the roots be reduced and smaller pots utilised in their stead, they should be plunged in IS CHRYSANTHEMUMS. cocoanut-fibre refuse, spent hops, sifted ashes, or any equally suitable material. During periods of severe frost this plunging of the pots is a safe protection against any I'eal harm being done to the roots. In circumstances such as these, the frame lights should be well matted up, and any available litter placed around the frame as a further protection. Old stools left in their flowering pots should have the surface soil slightly loosened, as this assists very materially in the development of subsequent growths. Stock Plants of Garden Varieties. — To this sccti\\'c\"ci' ; a slight dusting with tnhacco jiowdcr will (juickly rid the l)lants of this pest, but on no account siiould the jilanls be neglected, or serious trouble and ilis- tigurement \\ill lie subsecpicntly noted. The soil in the boxes sometinu'S gets soured thniugh a too generous su))- ply of water, when done too persistently. It is well in such circumstances to stir the soil between the ro\\s of plants. With a label oi' anything of that kind this may be done easily and (jui(;kly, of which, as a conseiiuencc, the soil be- comes sweetened, and the plants develop as ^^"ell as one can desire. CHAPTEi; lY. CUTTINGS IN FRAMES, ETC. There are doubtless many gr(3wers who do not possess the undoubted advantage of a heated glass structure, and who are, notwithstanding, enthusiastic admirers of the chrysanthemum. The notes given in the previous pages have little to interest such growers, as they are without the necessary appliances to carry out the work. CUTTINGS IN FRAMES, ETC. 37 Cuttings in a Cold Frame. — Few gardens are without a cold frame ; by the aid of this useful adjunct of the garden, it should be a comparatively simple matter to raise a goodly stock of plants. The grower must not begin too early in tlie season, and would be well advised to defer inserting cuttings of his chrysan- themums vmtil the end of January. Severe frosts and bad weather are usually less trying as the sun gains more power, and for this reason one's chances of success are better wlien the work is begun at the time just men- tioned. A little preparation of the frame is first necessary. As far as possible the cold frame should be embedded in litter of a kind that will exclude frosts. Straw, hay, leaves, bracken, and any material of somewhat similar character, packed well round the frame and level with the frame-light itself, should afford adequate protection against the severest frosts. Mats — two or three layers, if needs be — should always be in readiness for the hard weather and each day in the late afternoon, the frame-lights should be carefully matted down. In some gardens it is the rule to make a kind of thatch, with htn'dles and straw or bracken interwoven, for the purpose of covering the frame-lights in frosty weather. Soil should be filled in the frame to within eight or ten inches, more or less, of the frame-light at the lowest end of the frame. A layer of cocoanut-fibre refuse, spent hops, or sifted ashes, to the depth of several inches, should then follow, for the purpose of plunging the pots or boxes when the cuttings are inserted in them. In this way, cuttings may be propagated with ease, and be kept in a sturdy condition when rooted, or until the warmer weather permits 'the grower to deal with them. Stools of some of the more tender garden sorts may be lifted and planted in cold frai::ies, and when evidence of new growth is apparent, and this appears to be developing in a fairly robust condition, the old stools shordd be divided, and the different pieces planted out in cold frames until nicely hardened off in late April or at a sub- sequent period. 38 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Other Simple Means of Raising: Plants. — Would-be growers of the chrysanthemum having unheateil glass liouses need not despair. A few boxes, some eiglit to ten inches deep, should be requisitioned, and a layer of cocoanut-fibre refuse or similar material placed in the bot- tom. Small pots should be used for raising a batch of cuttings, treating the latter as prescribed for those under the general directions elsewhere, and subsequently they should be stood in the boxes till rooted. Pieces of glass should be placed over the boxes, in this way making a temporary frame. In circumstances such as these, the cuttings should be rooted within a month. Spare rooms may also he utilised for those \\ithout a glass house or cold frame. Select, if possible, a win- dow with a sunny aspect, and treat the cuttings in the same way as advised for those having unheated green- houses. Living-rooms may also be utilised for the same purpose with conspicuous success. Boxes, or some of the larger pots, with a sheet of glass placed over them, make excellent propagators, but rooms where gas is burned had better be debarred. In so far as regards soils, pots, and other details of culture, the advice given to more favoured gi-owers should l)e followed in every respect. OHAPTER V. PROPAGATION BY DIVISION. This more particularly refers to old plants of the early sorts for border culture, and, in the case of growers whose demands are limited, is a simple and ready means of increasing their stock of plants. In the spring, right Market Chkysanthemum., "F. W. Lever.'' 40 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. away until tlie early suimuer, many of llio v\d plants are bristling with growths ot a most drsirahlc kiiiil, and if left to develop the whole of them, they would make tremen- dous bushes, but the quality of the ffowers and the char- acter of their growths would leave much to be desired. If not divided, the growths should be rigorously thinned out. How to Divide — These plants may be lifted quite easily, and may be divided into numerous pieces. A good sharp knife, or anj' other equally serviceable implement (which must be strong), must be used for the purpose of dividing up the growths. Some plants are more easily divided than others, and may be broken into pieces of different sizes with little or no trouble. Others, hov\ever, are equally difiicult of division, emitting their growths so close to the base of the old stem, thus making their division a matter of consider- able difiiculty. It is possible, however, with this kind of plant to take off the lower growths, which, in many in- stances, have a few roots adhering. They may be broken oft individually, or in small pieces of two or three growths, and such pieces will subse(piently develop into beautiful plants for autumn liowering. There is still a third class of plants which rarely, if ever, make any sucker-like growths, but develop shoots only on tlie portion of the old stem retained. Unfortunately, this type of plant pro- duces flowers of the very best. It is a matter for regret to those who have to follow this method of increasing their stock of plants that they can do little or nothing with them. When to Divide — Any time from the middle of March onwai'ils niaj- be chosen for carrying out the division of these plants. The earlier the better, as they divide more readily, and when transplanted without delay, get well established before the warm weather is with us. If left initil the late spring or early summer they will need more watching and encouragement to get them into good condition, and never go away with that free growth PROPAGATION BY DIVISION. 41 that this work, when dune earher, invariably sees. The divided pieces, when transplanted, should be given plenty of room. It is a great mistake to crowd them, as they invariably make larger plants than the smaller plants from rooted cuttings, and their ample growths must have plenty of room in which to develop. On all occasions plant firmly. Never hesitate to tread in well, all round the plants. Choose a fine day for this operation, when the soil is not sticky or pasty, but nice and friable. Carried out under conditions such as these, the divided plants quickly re-establish themselves, and afford great pleasure to those who watch their development. Small-Floweeed Sixole, " Peter Pan." A charming little single of unique form 'as a spray. The inflorescence is 'seen "right down the flower stem. Colour, a pleasing biscuit tone, and is distinctly' attractive, f.c.c, x.c.s. Large-Flowered Single, " Merstham Jewel." A large, free-flowering single variet}' of good form. The fairly broad petal < are evenly disposed round a. well-proportioned yellow disc or centre. Colour, bright, bronzy red. F.c.c, x.o.s. si4^ U4^ U4^ U^ si4^ U^ Part II.-OUTDOOR CULTURE. CHAPTER I. EARLY AND SEMI. EARLY VARIETIES. In this chapter we will deal with the cultivation of the early and semi-early varieties to be planted in beds and borders outdoors. Situation of Beds and Borders. — The garden chrysanthemums are not in the least fastidious as to the position in which they may be planted. At the same tinie there are positions in which they may be planted with a greater certainty of success, and to this end a Httle con- sideration is perhaps advisable. They may be planted in the same quarters j'ear after year, without the least de- teiioration being noticeable in the plants or in the blooms. If it be possible, secure a position that is open to the south or west, where the benefit of the sun's influence, may be obtained during the greater part of the day. In so favourable a position the plants revel, developing well-ripened wood, and plants that bear a profusion of buds, with a consequent wealth of charming blossoms. Such positions are ideal, but, of course, there are many who desire to grow these plants who cannot find situations in their garden so favourable. Such growers should not EARLY AND SEMI-EARLY VARIETIES. r.i lose heart, as the garden chrysanthemums will grow in almost any position. A more open position will also answer well, but we have to remember the strong and boisterous winds of the early autumn, in which the plants exposed in the open position here referred to, run con- siderable risk of damage. In the ordinary suburijan gar- EaRLY C'HRVSANTHEMtTMS IN A YoRKSiriRE fiARDEX, den, however, there are many positions in which chrysan- themums will do well, and answer the purpose admirably of making beds and borders gay during the usually dull season of the year. The only position in which there is risk of their failing to do as well as the grower, may desire is that of a northern aspect. In such a position they ii CHRYSANTHEMUMS. get plenty of light, but, owing to the absence of sun, they get drawn and attenuated, and their period of flowering, as a consequence, commences later Preparation of the Borders. — Everything depends upon the pi'eparation of the soil and the character of the same. These plants do not want too riidi a soil, as this promotes gi'owth of too rank a kind; or they will attain almost unwieldy jirojxirtions, and not infre- quently develop quite out of character. Any soil of a fairly good kind will grow the garden chrysanthemums quite satisfactorily, but the grower should bear in mind that to see the eai'ly or semi-eai'ly garden kinds at their best, growth of a sturdy and consolidated character should be produced. This is best developed by planting in soil that has been deeply dug, and manure of a thoroughly well-rotted kind incorporated at the time. New manure has the effect of promoting a coarse growth, and as we wish to avoid plants of this character, see to it that the manure has been stacked for some time, and has become well rotted. The preparation of the flowei'ing quarters cannot well be begun at too early a period. There is )io- thing like commencing in the late autumn or early winter in preparing the flowering quarters, and this is specially valuable in the case of small gardens, where the soil often is very sour, and for all plants, is of a most undesirable kind. Thj advantage of turning up the soil in the winter is that the frosts are able to get well into it, killing insect pests, and sweetening and pulverising it. Frost is an important factor in the successful preparation of the soil, and if taken in hand at the period recommended, it cannot be denied that the grower has an immense advantage. In many instances, of course, this is not possible, esjieci- ally in the case of those whose garden accommodation is limited, and who also want to make the most of it at all seasons. Too frequently the ground available for the chrysanthemums cannot be treated until spring. In many cases, too, the grower has to wait until his bulbs have finished ffuwering, in \\hich case full justice cannot be EARLY AND SEMI-EARLY VARIETIES. 45 done to the soil. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, the garden should be deeply dug as early as possible subse- quent to the flowering period of the bulbs already referred to. Observe the same rule with regard to deep culture and the incorporation of well-rotted manure in this case, as was generally recommended at the beginning of this note. In all cases, where digging has been done some time pre- vious to planting, the surface soil should be left in a rough condition. In this way, however limited the time may be in which the soil is exposed to the weather, really beneficent work by atmospheric conditions, is being car- ried on. There is more in ths preparation of the garden soil than many persons are aware, and for this reason, if it be possible, let the work be done in the winter time. With reference to the manure mcorporated at the time of digging, consideration of the soil one has to deal with should be observed. In soils of a light and sandy or peaty character, well-rotted cow manure shovdd be added. This is cooler and heavier in its character, and is better calcu- lated to meet the need of such gardens than any other. By the same rule, soil of a heavy and retentive kind needs the incorporation of manure of a lighter character, and for this reason horse manure, with plenty of litter, should be used, rather than that of any other kind. These are little points which need to be thought out when one takes in hand the preparation of the flowering quarters of these delightful autumn plants. About a week before the plant- ing is done, it is a good plan to fork over the surface soil, breaking it up and levelling it down, so that the planting may be done expeditiously. This is a rule which must always be followed, as the soil by these means is rendered nice and friable, and the conditions under which planting is carried out made more agreeable. ■ie CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHAPTER II. PLANTING. OriMo>,'s ilifftT respecting the time when phinting sliould he done. This diverse opininn is generally liaeefl to the difference of opinions held hy the trade and tile private grovi'er. The writer unhesitatingly slates that no planting should be done until about the middle to the third week in May. This has been his prac- . tice lor some score ycarti, and during that period he has never felt sate in planting earlier. This, of course, refers to stock raised in the early spring, and subse- quently hardened off, and in no case does it refer to old stools that are divided in the spring, as dealt .with in another chapter. Planting at the time advocated meets the requirements of growers in the South of England, but in the Midlands and North, greater care is necessary, and it is to be doubted whether it is wise to connnence plant- ing in these urore northerly positions until a rather later dale. In the Midlands, planting should not begin until tin; last week in May, and in the North, and Scotland in particular, the early days of June should be quite early enough. From close observation extending over many years, it has been found that cold and cutting winds not iufrequ.^ntly prevail during the greater part of April, and all too fre(iuently in May. As an experiment plants have been put out in their flowering quarters in April, as lecommended by certain trade growers, but the bedrag- gled character of such plants when placed out thus early, fully justifies one in keeping them under some slight cover luitil the date recommended, namely, the third week in May. It is easy to understand why the trade recorn- PLANTING. 47 mend the plants to be placed in their flowering quarters earlier; it is their business to get rid of their plants as quickly as possible, as they have other uses for their frames and houses. We have been in conflict with certain trade growers with reference to this matter, but a recent experiment, on a very large scale, in the Midlands, has proved the wisdom of the later period of planting. Much depends upon the way in which the plants are prepared. If they are planted, in the firet instance, in frames, and accorded a fairly hardy system of culture in tliese through the spring and early part of May, and the frame lights removed on every possible occasion, entirely removed during the last fortnight, they should be in a nice, hard condition for planting, in which case the risk run is very small. The cutting winds in the spring, before referred to, frequently break off the somewhat tender and brittle leaves, and all too often the lower portion of the plant is denuded of its foliage. This is a matter that is easily avoided when the later period of planting is ob- served. Undue haste generally leads to an unsatisfactory sequence of events. How to Plant. — Plenty of space should be given to the plants, otherwise their proper development will be un- satisfactory. The Japanese varieties are the stronger grow- ing, and in consequence they should be given a larger space than those of the Pompon type. The Japanese sorts of more recent introduction possess a somewhat vigorous character of growth, and a splendid branching habit. For this reason it will be easily understood that such plants need plenty of room that their ample growths may be seen at their best. If the plants be grouped or arranged in a quarter of the garden by themselves, as dahlias are fre- quently treated, it is a good rule to plant in rows. The rows should be at least three feet apart, and the plants placed in position three feet apart in the rows also. Gener- ally speaking this is sufficient space to allow, but there are cases where rather less space is needed, and also those 48 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. in which another six inches might be given with advan- tage. Pompons are satisfied with rather less space. In some of the smaller garden kinds two feet between the plants and the rows is sutfieient, but more often a space of two feet six inches would be better. Even here we should be disposed to allow quite three feet between tlie rows, as one has to remember that during their growing period the plants have to be attended to, and many little details of culture carried out. With limited space this is difficidt of accomplishment. To plant satisfactorily, make a good hole, removing the soil by the aid of a small spade or trowel, the i)hint taken in haiid shoidd have the ball of soil and idots well embedded and also well trodden in. Firm planting is absolutely essen- tial, others is ^ weak and unsatisfactory growths develop as a conse(|uence. Assuming the plants are m the frames, each one should be lifted with a good ball of soil adhering. This should be transferred straight away, and not placed in the garden basket for the roots to wither by exposure to the sun an:l air. Transfer straight from the frame to the flowering (juarteis, and in this way save a serious check. If the plants be in pots shake them out, removing the crocks with care. Spread out the roots, and see that the crown of the plant is well below the surface soil with which the ball of soil and roy tin's means \\-eeds iire kejit unde)', the soil aerated, and the result of this well-timed work is seen A ilARKET CilRYSA^TlIEMl-Jf, " XuVElHiER GoLIl.' in the development of plants that leave nothing to be desired. Readers will see now why so much space was recommended to be allowed between the rows and between the plants when grouped in the border. The grower can get among them with ease, and hoe and weed the ground. 54 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. and also tic his plants in comfort. Some plants, especially in the case of those divided portions of the old stools, may be rather undnly crowded with shoots. It may be well, nnder these circumstances, to cut out some of the weakly and attenuated growths, so that the stronger ones may develop and make better specimens. Also, as the season advances, and to simplifjr the work of looping and tying the plants in rows, other stakes should be arranged alternately between those ah-eady inserted for the support of the plants. With tarred twine begin at one end of the row, and within one big loop, made fast to the next stake, embrace the whole of each plant on one side of the row. This should be continued throughout the row on both sides, and although, at first, the plants' appearance may be somewhat stiff and formal, in a little while the branching growths will assume a more natural form. By this means the shoots may be kept from breaking out from the plants, and a dense mass of blooms will ulti- mately make a glorious display. Feeding-. — It will be remembered that, earlier in these pages, the free use of potent manures was strongly deprecated, as this was pointed out as being likely to pro- duce growth of too vigorous a character. For the same reason, plants in pots and in the borders should not he fed with liquid or other manui-es during their growing period. These plants should not be fed imtil the buds are formed and well set. When this is so, periodical applications may be given. In dry weather, first give the roots a watering with clear water, following this with manure water, varied in its character from time to time. Artificial manures now abound, and guanos also of varying qualities may be had at a very cheap rate. These latter have advantages when the plants are arranged near to the dwelling-house, as they are usually free from unj^leasant smells, and less likely to give offence. When the plants are arranged in a position where this matter need not be consideied, an application of animal manures, in liquid form, may be carried out with advantages to the grower, from an economical point of GENERAL TREATMENT 55 view, and in the variety of manures available. Further, it is well to remember that no liquid manure should be given at any time, unless the i^lants have first had a watering with clear water. Never overdo the feeding, as this has proved to be a constant source of failure. When the manure is of too potent a character, the surface roots not infre- quently get damaged, and the extra vigour and impetus they should give to the plants at the time of bud develop- ment is thereby lost. In some cases it may be well to apply a slight top-dressing of good rich manure at the time the buds are well set. Not seldom surface roots abound at this season, and when covered with a good top- dressing, considerable vigour is imparted at a time when this help can be fully appreciated. In wet weather, growers are fre(juently advised to give a dusting of some of the guanos, or fertilisers, round the surface roots of the plants. While this may be done with advantage to the plants in some instances, there is considerable danger in the too general observance of the rule ; an even dis- tribution is always difficult, and the surface roots are often burned and damaged by coming into contact with some of the stronger manures. Before leaving this matter it should be again emphasized that no manure or manure water should be applied to plants in the garden until the buds are well set. Staking^ and Tying — When plants are first placed outdoors they should have the support of a short stake, and the tying and looping, as recommended for pot plants, observed also in this case. In a very little while they will need stakes of a stronger character, and taller also. Bam- boo canes are more often used than any others, although stout hazel stakes, as used for dahlias, are to be preferred. What are really wanted are hazel stakes, rather less in substance than those ordinarily used for dahlias, and about one foot less in length. They may be purchased from any horticultural sundriesman, and if lifted after their season's work and placed under cover, will last for several years. These stouter stakes should be inserted as soon as the 56 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. garrlfii plnnls lurin lo hraiidi oiil inio iifw pvowtlis ; and contiiiiKiiisly IVoin lliis [idint, uiilil (licy ai'o in full blossom, they should lie (i\i'rl(i(ikcil each week", and their require- ments in res[)rc( In l.viii.i:;' carefully carried out. If this be not olisi'r\"eil, many Hur lir;nieliiii^' sliools \\\\\ most assuredly break out, and sjMiil tliL' Inanity of the a])pear- anee of the collection, and also (he loss of many blooms, when the liowerinn' season c(jmes I'ouiul. Under no cir- cumstances should the yi-owtlis be tied too tightly, as this is fatal to a I'eally pretty display in the outdoor garden. Plants rinist lia\e a Svvc space in wliiidi to develop their luiuierous sliools, ;iud, as tile majority of them are pos- sessed of a deli.ghtful branidiiiiL;' habit, the grower slundd see to it that the natural charaetei'ist ics of the plant are [)reserved. Treatment when in Flower. -The labours of the year are almost o^•e^ when the garden varieties come into tlower, the only e(]ueern of the growia' at this tinie being to maintain the display" as long as possible. Seeing that some varieties come into (lower so early as August, and the same plants freipiently continue in blossom until (juitc lato in October, every means that i;' possible should be tal^en to prolong their displaj-. For this reason, spent blossoms should be cut out frora time to time, otherwise, with the moister \"\'eather, and (he hea\'y dews that prevail in the late summer and early autumn, the fast fading blooms will become one mass of decaying florets, and other bloonis develo])ing round tlieni will, in eonse(|uence, be contami- nated. ]iVnio\"e siieb spent lilossoins liefore they get into this state, that those remaining on the sprays may be pre- served as long as possible. When the whole of the spray has finished its period of flowering, if should be cut out altogettier, thus permitting other growths of more recent development to continue their progress, and produce their display in turn. Some of the earliest kinds are better cut down when almost the wdiolo of their flowers are past their best. 58 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Not infrequently, new growths develop from the base of the old plants, and from their earliest history have a bud at their apex. These later series of growths will often make a delightful display quite late in the season, and of this particular tj'pe there is a now goodly number. Take particular care before the plants finish their disjjlay that each one has its label securely tied to the old stem, or, failing this, a label of goodly proportions inserted in such a way that there can be no mistake as to which plant it refers to. In this way one may safely rely upon the per- petuation of the different kinds without running any risks. When gathering the blossoms, it is a good rule to cut out the more ciowded blooms fro.n among the freely-flowered sprays. In some instances, it may be better to cut the spray us a \\liole, such pieces making delightful decorative material tor vatics and other large receptacles. CHAPTEK IV. CULTURE AGAINST WALLS, ETC. The garden sorts, in many instances, are specially well suited to cover walls and fences, but so far little appears to have been done in this direction. The freer-growing kinds arc better suited for this particular purpose, as their ample growths should quickly cover unsightly walls and fences, and make them plants of beauty during the flowering season. The stronger growing kinds are emi- nently well suited for this purpose, and that growths of a robust kind may be developed it is well to enrich the soil with some good lasting manure. The idea in planting against walls and fences is to cover them as far as possible, Octobee-Floweeing Japanese Garden Chrysanthemum, " White Quintus." (Not Disbudded.) 60 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. and by promoting a ireer style of giowth, our object is all the more likely to be achieved. Those of a branching character, too, may be utilised in this way, and no better plants could well be selected for this admirable ])U)-pose. Position — If it be possible, plant against walls and fences having a warm asjiect. We must jiot forget that the growths shoidd be well ripened, and that this may be brought about, the plants should be arranged in a southern or western position. Here the plants will revel, and one does not exaggerate •\'\hen one says that in such a situation the display of a choice selection, as given at the end of this book, should exceed the most sangiu'ne expectations of those disposed to try the experiment. Even here it is possible to make a pleasing disjiosition of the colours, and on no account should an incongruous arrangement of (he ccjloms be seen. That this iui])leasant feature may be avoided, plant wTth a proper legaid for the natural sequence of colours. Planting: — Plant firmly, treading in the soil well round tlie plants, inserting at the same tiriie a short stake, to which the young plants should be tied. When the )ilants branch out into growth, and the branches are suffi- ciently long, they should be fastened by the aid of shreds and nails. L>o not fix them too tightly to the wall, but give the growths a little play. That this may be satis- factorily done, see that the shreds are rather longer than one ordinarily finds in use. Better still if a trellis-work of wire can be fixed up against the wall, and the growths tied to this; their appeararice at all times will be interesting. They may also be staked against the wall, and bamboo canes brought into requisition ; in fact, any known contriv- ance to give them an espalier-like arrangement should be used, and the ultimate effect of this simple contrivance uill well repay one for the trouble taken. Part III.-GREENHOUSE CULTURE. CHAPTER I. DECORATIVE VARIETIES. In the course of time the young plants that are grown in pots for decorative purposes will need a further repotting to that described in Chapter III., Part I., but before this work be done the grower should be fully satisfied that each one is well rooted. There are several means of ascertaining whether the plants are well rooted, the more popular and certainly more satisfactory method being that of turning each one out of its pot. When it is seen that the ball of soil is thoroughly well rooted, a shift into a larger pot should be proceeded with without delay. Do not wait until the roots get matted and entangled at the bottom of the ball of soil, or considerable difficulty will be experi- enced in removing the crocks, and the roots must of neces- sity be damaged in consequence. Pots for this shift should be either five-incdies (forty-eights) or six-inches (thirty-twos) in diameter. As in the earlier instance, wash the pots quite clean before using, adopting similar methods in their cleansing. Compost. — For repotting the decorative kinds the compost should be of a good and lasting character, and the heap prepared in readiness for use some few days 62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. before it is actually recjuired. Make up a compost with the following ingi'edients : four parts good fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould, half a part of well-decayed horse manure, and liberal dustings each of wood ashes, bone- meal, and any reliable and approved fertiliser. Broken 03'stcr-shells may also be added with advantage. Coarse silver-sand or clean road grit must be added in sufficient quantity to make the compost jjorous, but as so much de- pends upon the texture of the loam, no hard and fast rule can be observed. The loam and other ingredients should be broken up into small pieces, and the whole mixed in no uncertain manner. It is absolutely essential that there be an even distribution of the different soils, etc. ; and for this reason the heap should be turned over repeatedly. Keep the compost under cover in case of rain, and turn over occasionally to sweeten before using. The five-inch pots should be used for jilants of moderate or faiidy robust growth, giving those plants with vigorous root action the larger size — six-inch pots. When to Repot — One cannot state definitely at wliat period this potting slioukl be done; so much dependw u])Oii the condition of each plant. An earlier propagation would naturally result in each subsequent detail of cul- ture being earlier also. The first batch to become rooted must be regarded as the first to be potted up, assuming they are well rooted at the time. During late April and May the earliest batches will probably need this atten- tion, and immediately they are ready, see to them at once. Subsequent batches of plants should be constantly over- looked, and taken in hand from time to time, when ready for their shift into pots of larger size. How to Repot. — Crock with potsherds or crushed oyster shells; the latter are to be preferred in all cases. One flat shell over the hole in the bottom, and a layer of the crushed shells or potsherds arranged neatly over it, answers very well. A piece of turfy loam to cover the crocks, or some of the rougher portions of the soil, will 64 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. effectually jjievent the compost fioni working down into the drainage. A handful of compost placed in turn over the last mentioned will fiud everything ready to receive the plant to be repotted. Turn out the plant with care, remov- ing the crocks without damagingthe tenderroots, and place in position on its liase m the lai'gcr pot. Fill in all round with the coiJipost, v.orking this down by the aid of a wooden label or wedge-shajied rammer to answer the same purpose. Pot with increasing firmness, consolidating the soil with the rar,imer just referred to. Finish off neatly on the surface, label, and stand in a cold frame, on sifted ashes, and keep close for a day or two. For a time at least, the plants may stand close together, after which they must have more room. A day or so after the repotting, give the plants a thorough watering, using a fine-rosed can, moistening the ball of soil throughout. Standing- Plants in Pots Outdoors Do not lie in tiio great a hui'ry to stand the jilants in the <)))en, as no AX'i'y useful purpose can be served thus early. Choose a nicely sheltered position, if possible, free from cold and cutting winds, where tlie siui's inllueiice can he felt dui'ing the greater part of the daj'. In such conditions their pro- gress should be very satisfactoi'y, and the plants cannot well fail to inspire one with hope as to their futui'c. The plants should be stood in square groups, of a convenient size, so that they may be easily overlooked and their needs supplied When the groups are over-large there is always some trouble in watering the plants, and in the reaching across for other purposes there is some risk of breaking the shoots. Sifted ashes, or, better still, coke-breeze, makes a neat and cool bottom for this temporary stand- ing ground, ami is to be preferred to boards, tiles, or slates, the first-mentioned, however, should he a layi'r se\'eral inches deep to prevent the ingi'ess of worms. Worms quickly work their way through a thin stratum of this material, but a thick layer is a suffi- cient check against their entering the pots. Early May is quite soon enough to place the plants outdoors; the uncer- DECORATIVE VARIETIES. 65 tainty of our British climate at this season and earher being proverbial. Previous to taking this step, the plants should be gradually inured to more hardy conditions, so that no check may be experienced by them when the change comes. Spacing: out the Plants — This is a simple detail, yet so much depends upon it being carried out at the proper time. From the earliest stages, after the young plants are potted up and subsequently established, spac- ing out should be observed. It is customary, in the first instance to stand the plants pot to pot in their respective batches. In a little while, when they begin to grow, their prospects are improved by giving them more room, technically known as "spacing out." As a result of this treatment, air is made to circulate between both pots and plants, drying the former and encouraging the latter into healthy growth ; the two func- tions combined also encouraging healthy root action. At a later date again, plants of the earlier batches may be spaced out advantageously, so that when the time comes for their repotting they should be in prime condi- tion for the shift. The same rule may be observed with the plants soon after they are placed outdoors, and with equally good results. As a consequence, the growths attain a vigour rarely seen under less satisfactory condi- tions ; the foliage stands out well beyond the edge of the pots, and finely developed plants soon become ready for the final potting. Staking: the Young: Plants — At the time the plants are transferred to five-inch or six-inch pots, they should each receive the support of a stake of suitable length. Small stakes only are needed at this compara- tively early period, and there are no better stakes than those cut from the hazel. They are very cheap, may be purchased in bundles that will make a large number of both small and large stakes, and their natural colour does 66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. not render them unsightly, as are many others now on the market. See that the end inserted in the soil is nicely sharpened to a point, and do not insert the stake too near the base of the stem of the plant. For want of care in this respect, plants are not infrequently partially denuded of their roots, and such specimens must suffer in conse- quence. Make one tie near the base, and another just at that point in the stem of the plant that denotes it is ripening and getting fairly hard. Never tie where the stem is soft and brittle. C'HAPTEi;. IT. FINAL POTTING. The finiil potting of decorati\e chrysanthemums, no matter what their character may be, slinuld bo carefully carried out. Tliere is one consolation regarding ihe culture of decorative v'arieties, and that is, there is not the anxious concern with such plants as there is with those grown for exhibition purposes. Nevertheless, the old adage says, " What is worth doing at all is worth doing well," and for this reason, therefore, the first con- cern of the grower should be the Compost.-- Loam of a good ami lasting character is an essential factor in the successful culture of these plants, and care should l)e taken to secure a sufficient quantity of this iiigi'cdii'iit ; keep it in a cool shed or under covei', so that \vhat('ver the weather may be, it may be used at any time. This loam should be full of fibre, if the best interests of the plants are to be A.c. nej.] DiiCORATlVE ClIRySAis'THEMUM, " ClARA VjSRNUM." 1-2 'i-^ CHRYSAN I'HEMUMS. served, ami of this material take four parts. The loam should be brolcen up into small nodules about the size of a walnut, and the quantity of fine soil as small as possible. Leaf-mould and horse manure, the latter as prepared for a mushroom bed, should be added to the comj^ost, one part of each of these being sufficient. A liberal dusting of wood-ashes or crushed charcoal should also be added, and to serve the same purpose, crushed oyster shells may be used with advantage. To each bushel of soil add a five- inch potful of any well-known and approved fertiliser, but take particular care that this is well distributed by mixing thorouglily. Coarse silver-sand or clean road grit should be added in a sufficient quantity to make the compost porous. This is very important, as proper drainage of the soil must be provided if the well-being of the plants is to be assiu-ed. In this case, none of the ingredients should be passed through a sieve, but simply broken up into small pieces, as already recommended. It will be apparent to the grower how necessary it is that the heap of these ingredients should be thoroughly well mixed and if prepared a week beforehand, well blended at the time, and two or three times in the interval also tm-ned over, the different ingredients will be well and evenly distri- buted and tlie heap of soil sweetened. Pots. — ;\riich depends u])on the object the grower may Inne in y'il-w, with regard to his decorative plants, as to the size of pots he should use. The earlier propagated plants will, by the time the final potting has to be done, be well rooted in either five-inch or six-inch pots, according to their respective vigour. Plants in five-inch pots should be transferred to those mea- suring nine inches in diameter, and those in six-inch pots into others a size larger, namely ten-inch pots. The grower must determine for himself, to some extent, the needs of individual plants, placing the more vigorous growing varie- ties into pets of the larger size, those less vigorous being content \^ith ^lots nine inches in diameter. There are also the claims of smaller plants which are the result of a Single Chrysanthemum, "Miss Katie Kino. '0 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. later period of propagation. Plants that were propagated rather late in the spring will not need pots so large in size as their earlier rivals. Many of the late February and March propagated pieces may be flowered satisfac- torily in pots eight inches in diameter, while those rooted still later will make very pretty plants if transferred from three-inch pots to those measuring six inches in diameter. The last to be propagated with the intention of making window or table plants of them, when in flower, v^'ill make pretty plants if transferred into pots five inches in dia- meter. Plants of this description are usually rooted in the late spring or early summer, and if care be observed in their culture, and they be stopped once or twice during the growing season, they shoidd make bushy little specimens for the purpose just indicated. Take particular care to wash the pots thoroughly clean, leaving them to drain in a natural manner, and keep them in a cool condition. By this means a certain amount of moisture is retained by the. pots, which, after all, are very porous, and this more natural way of drying them too, will certainly serve the plants better. Crocks, too, have their value, and these should be scrupulously clean. XA/here oyster shells can be obtained (and, as a rule, they may be easily acquired from a local fishmonger), by all means use them in preference to other methods of making drainage. A flat one should be placed over the hole in the bottom of the pot, and the others arranged in regular order over this. This method is an undoubted success, and has many advantages over the ordinary pieces of potsherd more frequently used. The lime in the shells al.30 assists in sweetening the soil, and provides plant food to the roots when they reach them, of which they take full advantage. Potting'. — Over the crocks arranged in the careful manner already advocated, place pieces of turfy loam, or any of tlie rough"r portions of the soil, thus preventing any of the smaller particles of compost, subsequently placed in the pot, from working down into them and inter- fering with the drainage. A handful of soil should be placed FINAL POTTING. 71 over this, and rendered firm in the usual manner. The plant then to be rej)otted should be taken in hand, tjhaken out of its pot with care, and the crocks removed from its base without injuring the tender roots. This done, the plant should be placed in position in the larger pot, spreading out the roots at the base. Proceed then to fill in the compost all round the ball of soil of the repotted plant, ramming this in firmly by the aid of the wedge-shaped rammer described earlier in tliese pages. Continue to fill in all round, render- ing each layer in succession firm, in the same manner as before. Finally, fill in to the surface level of the ball of the repotted plant, wliich should be an inch and a-half below the rim of the pot. At this stage be particu- larly careful when ramming in tlie soil that the tender sur- face roots of the plants be not damaged thereby. A light layer of soil over the surface should then be applied, and this pressed firm with the hand. Label at once, and if not already done, a stake of suitable length, nicely sharpened, should be inserted for the plant's support. In- sert the point of the stick an inch or two from the base of the stem of the plant, otherwise much damage may be done to the roots. Lightly but securely loop the growth to the stake. Stand the plants in a sheltei'ed position on boards or sifted ashes outdoors, in squares of twenty or thirty plants in each, until they have recovered from the check experienced in the repotting, and have become estabhshed. There may seem to be a lot of detail observed in carrying out this important operation in the culture of these plants, but it is imperative that the smallest detail be carefully observed and carried out. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHArTEK III. SUMMER TREATMENT. The sumuH'i- (juaiicrw or staiuliiij^' giouiid foi- plants of the decorative l-cind.s in pots is a position that sliould l5e allocated with careful forethought. A good open position, at the same time sheltered from the east and north, is one that should be selected if possilile. One also has to remember the boisterous winds from the south-west \\hich usually prevail from August onwards, ^diile the plants are outdoors. For this reason, therefore, if the plants can be screened effec- tually from the full force of the soutli-westerly galcB, it is better. Full advantage should be taken of a southern aspect, as in this position the good and ripening influence of the sun is undoubted, and without it the plants can never attain that splendid healthy character which all decorative plants should possess. If possible, stand them evenly in rows running north and south. Where more convenient a special part of the garden should be allocated to them, and rows some four to six feet apart should be mapped out. The rows should have two lengths of strong galvanised wire securely strained to stout upright posts, the lower row of wire being some two and a-half feet from the ground, t.ijd the upper one about two feet above this. If more conve- nient, paths of the kitchen or flower garden may be used for the same purpose, but that no damage may happen to the plants it is important that only wide paths be utilised in this way. Avoid Overcrowding — The plants should be stood some fifteen inches apart, taking the measurement between SUMMER TREATMENT. 73 the pots ; this will give ample space for the growths to develop during the growing season. On no account must the plants be crowded. It would be a fatal mistake for a grower to attempt to stand more plants in a given area in the hope that by so doing he would make a better dis- YoUNO Pl.vnt in Fit Condition to Stop or Pinch. play under glass subsequently. 8un and air must play their important parts in good culture, and the latter must circulate freely between the plants In this way, growth of a consolidated and satisfactory character will evolve, and from such, one may safely anticipate a successful issue. 74 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The Standing Ground — St'u that tlio pots arc stood on boards, slates, tiles, sifted ashes, oi' coke-breeze. If tlie t«'o hitter wulistaiices can be made of suffi- cient depth to prevent the ingress of worms through the liole in the bottom of the pot, b}' all means use them in preference to any other material. Tlie aehes or coke breeze also maintain a cool bottom, and tliis during the summer time, is mucli appreciated by the roots. Some growers have a weakness for plunging their pots several inches in the ground, and while it must be ad- mitted this saves the more frequent use of the water pot, it cannot be denied that when the time comes foi housing, it has its disadvantages. Invariably, wlien lift- ing the pots, which have been plunged in the manner above described, the roots have found their way through the hole in the bottom of the pot, and have worked into the adjoin- ing soil. As a consequence, when the plants are lifted, these roots have to be ruthlessly torn away, in this way causing a very severe check to the plants, and at a time when they are least prepared to experience the same. See that the pots are stood perfectly level, as this is of much importance when water has to be applied. If they are not absolutely level, the latter cannot percolate evenly through the soil in the pots, one side getting a larger pro- portion of water than the other, and progress under such conditions cannot be made. The stakes in the pots should be securely tied to the cross rows of wire, otherwise, as the growths become cumbersome and strong winds prevail, they will shift their position and may break off, and also cause a strain on the surface roots to the detriment of the plants. Pinching- or Stopping — These two terms are very uuich misunderstood by the general run of amateur horti- culturists, and that there may be no mistake in the inter- pretation of the terms, a few words here in explanation may be advisable. Pinching and stopping may be re- garded as synonymous terms, and are meant to imply that the plants should have the point of their growths pinched SUMMER TREATMENT. 75 out, thus "stopping" the growth; hence the terms apphed to this operation. When the plants are pinched in the manner described, it has the effect of inducing new shoots to develop in the axils of the leaves, immediately below that point of the growth manipulated. Some kinds are more free than others in emitting new shoots in the way indicated; when this is so, the foundation of a nice bushy plant is assured. Immediately subsequent to the pinching of a plant, the soil should be kept rather dry for a time, as this assists in the quicker development of new growths, which is the chief desire of the grower at this time. Pinching may begin when the young plants are some six inches in height, but they must be well rooted at the time, and on no account should the operation take place at the same time that any repotting is done. There should be an interval of at least a week or ten days, either before or after the repotting, and then one may manipulate the plants with every pros- pect of success. When the new growths attain a length of six inches they in turn should be pinched in like manner, and the same rule regarding the withholding of water for a time, should be respected. Each succeeding six or eight inches of growth should be treated in a similar manner dur- ing the growing period, but there is a limit to the time when this may be done. For ordinary mid-season displays, pinching should be done for the last time during the closing days of June, but in the case of late-flowering varieties, es- pecially when the flowers are wanted atChristmastinre, this final pinching should be deferred until three weeks later, namely, the third week in July. Readers will be quick to appreciate what fine bushy plants will evolve, through treating the ptlants in this way, and if the other details of culture be carried out at the proper time, and a careful system of control also be observed throughout, one may safely anticipate the development of large and handsome bushy specimens. This method of pinching plants is adopted in cases where a free display is desired, and in these cases one may have a profuse display of flowers, of small to medium siza, that are so useful for all forms of 76 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. decorative work. From the last pinching the phmts shouhi 1)6 grown on to the terminal buds, i.e., those buds marking tlie termination of the plant's growth. Should the grower prefer the plants to develop some twelve to eighteen, or rather mor.', really good flo\\ers, he must not take up so many shoots from the different pinchings, and ultimately, when they are gi'own on to the tei'miual buds, one Imd only should be K'ft on each shoot. it will, therefore, be seen that from the last pinching some eighteen shoots, more or less, must be grown on. Cut. back Plants — Cut-back plants are treated alto- gether ilifterently to tliose that are pinched or stopped, and this method is far more drastic than that of any other system. Cut-back plants are usually grown for grouping purposes, and this system is followed by those wdiose glass structures, in which the plants have to be housed, are somewhat low-pitched. The effect of cutting back a plant is seen in sj)ecimens of a dwaif character, but the cutting back should be done before the growths get hard through the sun's ripening influence. As a rule, cut-back plants develop comparatively few growths. Any number between three and nine flowers on each plant is enough, but even here there is some uncer- tainty, as the shoots do not always break away kindly sub- sequent to the cutting hack. To cut back a plant, the stem of the plant is usually cut down to within four to eight inches — more or less — of its base, according to its normal height, but in no ease should the plant be cut back into the hard wood. When cut back into the hard vs^ood the shoots subsequently evolving are varied in character, some being very strong, while others are equally weak, and it is owing to this uncertainty that cut-back plants have disadvan- tages. For this reason, therefore, about the middle of May, or rather later, the plants should be cut back in the manner just described. Observe the same rule with regard to keeping the soil dry for a time as was recommended for those pinched or stopped. The first buds subsequently de- veloping in the apex of flic now shools are (hose that SUMMER TREATMENT. 77 should be retained, and that this may be successfully accomplished, the small shoots surrounding the bud should be broken out while they are quite brittle, leaving the bud absolutely alone. These budj should appear in the point of the shoots during August, and if secured during the very hot weather and slightly shaded for a time, they will develop kindly, and ultimately produce large and hand- some flowers. Cut-Back" Plant. Sin;ill plant cut back or stopped. New growth should sulj.sequeiitly develop in the axils of the leaves. Staking^ and Tying — This must be done regularly and systematically, and must commence when the young plants begin to attain fairly large proportions. It is aston- ishing how quickly a plant picks up when it has the sup- port of a stake in its early history. Small stakes, nicely sharpened at all times, should be used in the first instance ; and these of a length that will enable the grower to keep 78 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. liis pluiitw 111 the cold irame until tliey may huai' expo- sure to the open. In tying the young plants securely to the stakes use raffia, making the tie first to the stake, and then bring within the loop-like tie the stem of the plant itself. Never tie too near the top of the shoot, as this, during the growing season, is always very brittle, and when strong winds prevail, if tied too near its apex, may snap off and upset one's calculations. When the plants are in the larger pots, they should have stakes of a stronger character, and also of a height to suit each indi- vidual variety. Most decorative plants of a bushy char- acter will need the support of three or four stakes, in order that their ample growths may be encoixipassed, and also securely looped. At all times insert the point of the stakes some little distance from the base of the main stem of the plants, that damage to the young roots may be avoided. As the plants increase in size, it is very impor- tant that the tying or looping be securely done. It is a mistake to tie up the growths too tightly, as they cannot in this way properly mature, and the even contour of the plants will also be destroyed. Looping the growths has been referred to on several occasions ; by it the grower should understand that, in the first instance, the ties to the stake must be made absolutely secure. Then, by bringing the raffia round, and the shoot brought within the loop and tied in such a manner that no great strain is brought to bear on either, the more natural development of the plant will be brought about. This must be observed right throughout the growing season, and, as a conse- quence, the plants will always be presentable. Weeds and Pests — Very little beyond the stak- ing and tying already described will be needed with these plants. The surface soil in the pots should be kept free from weeds, and the small shoots that develop in the axils of the leaves, somewhat low down, should be rubbed out. The grower should endeavour to concentrate all the energy of the roots on the stronger growths that are fast develop- ing nearer the top of the plant. If the poor-quality shoots SUMMER TREATMENT. 79 developing on the lower portion of the plant just described were retained, they would do very little in the way of pro- gressing, yet they would distinctly check the advance and reduce the quality of the stronger ones retained. As the summer advances earwigs are sometimes troublesome, for this reason traps should be set for them. Inverted pots with a little hay in them should be placed on the stakes, and these inspected every morning, and the con- tents shaken into a vessel of boiling water. Match-boxes, bean stalks, and any other known contrivance to entrap these dejjredators should be used, and thus prevent the shoots from lieing eaton and the malformation of the plants brought about. Watering must bo very carefully observed, and on no account should the plants be watered unless the roots be almost dry. There are growers who apply periodical waterings during the day, and seem to think it is necessary to water each plant in the collec- tion whether it wants it or not. On no account should this foolish want of method be tolerated. Each plant, if there is any doubt about it, should have its pot rapped with the knuckles or something answering the same pur- pose, and in response to a distinct ring, water should be supplied. Should a dull sound be given off in response to the rapping, pass on to the next plant, as no water will be needed till the next visit. It is so easy to be deceived, and to water a plant when it does not require it is to court failure. Do not be satisfied with just once water- ing a dry plant. It may be so dry that just one watering may only moisten the surface soil, as the space between it and the rim of the pot is often very small. Therefore, to plants that are dry, give two or three waterings that the whole of the soil in the pots may be thoroughly' mois- tened. Late afternoon, if possible, should be selected as the period when the j^lants should be well syringed. The benefit of this work is incalculable. A fine-rosed can will answer the same jiurpose, but is less handy to work with. 80 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Let this overhead watering ijo done towards the close of hot dajs, and use clear water. Feeding-. — The feeding of plants in i^ots slioidd not begin until they have thoroughly well rooted into the compost in which they were finally shifted. To appre- ciate an application of liquid manure, the plants should have largelv used up the constituents of the soil in which they were finally potted, and one of the best evi- dences of the need for such an application is the more fre- quent drying up of the soil, showing that supplies of water are needed more often. This points to the fact that pots and soil are well filled with roots. With plants in p)ots one needs to be extremely careful in the application of liquid manures, and at no time should this be given of too strong a character. A little, and often, should be the rule, as by this means the jjlants and buds that subsequently develop, may be built up gradually and rendered capable of assimilating all the plant food that the mamu'e water should supply. It is a good rule to vary the plant food, in the form of liquid maniu'e, from time to time, rather than confine oneself to the use of just one or two throughout the season. It is astonishing what changes can be effected by the variation of food, and if only growers would regard their plants and their appetites as they do their own, the well-being of the plants would be largely ensured. Growers should distinguish between fer- tilisers and stimulants ; there is a general disposition to regard them both in the same light. This is a mistake that is very often made, and not infrequently leads to undesirable results. A fertiliser should be regarded as a substance, either in liquid or other soluble form, that sup- plies plant food, and, as already advocated, should vary from time to time. Stimulants, however, are more gener- ally used in liquid form, and are applied at a time that the plant is capable of appreciating a stimulant, or needs an impetus given to its growth. These should be applied when the buds are nicely developed, and when they may perhaps be just a trifle later in their development than one Decorative or Market Japanese Chrysanthemum, D'OcTOEiiE." (Not Disbudded.) ' rSOLEIL S2 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. desires. Sulphate of ammonia, for instance, will hurry the development of the buds, and by its use blooms are given brighter and richer colours, although sometimes they predispose the latter to damp somewhat. Nitrate of soda is also used for the same purpose, but is much quicker in action, and should be used with the greatest caution. Fur- ther, never use ths two latter substances or r.ny chemical manures of a similar nature, until the buds are well de- velopi'il. Nitrate of soda will promote growth early in the season. Bud Selection.— This matter has already been touched upon under other headings, but it is a question that need not worry the grower as do the same remarks when applied to exhibition plants. The bud selection of decorative plants is a very simple matter, as in most in- stances the grower would ser^-e the interests of his plants better if he were to grow on the shoots to the terminal l)uds, i.e., the termination of their growth. But there are many who wish to produce plants that will develop some twelve to twenty or more blooms of a rather larger size than one ordinarily meets with in plants grown for decora- tive purposes. Secure what are known as " crown buds" on such plants. In the ordinary coiu'se of a plant's life the first bud to develop is described as the " break bud," from which several growths are taken up, and these in tm'n produce "crown buds." The first series of crown buds are usually described as "first crown buds," but, as a rule, especially in the case of decorative plants, their selection would be rather too early. For this reason, therefore, the first crown buds are pinched out, and the surrounding growths on each shoot, to the number of two, three, or four, are again taken up, and these subsequently develop another series of crown buds, which are known as " second crown buds." Second crown buds, as a rule, de- velop quickly and evenly, and blooms from stich buds usually partake of high colour and charming form. This type of bud is the one that should be selected, where the grower desires his plants to develop the larger blooms SUMMER TREATMENT. 83 just i-et'(.'rreil to. As a rule, these buds are developed in late August ; sometimeb they are rather earlier, and in other cases they are a little later, but, generally speak- ing, late August is the period when they are produced. To secure buds of this description, the small shoots sur- rounding them are gradually removed, not all at one time, but one, say, each day, until the bud is left quite alone at the apex of the shoot. The growths should always be tied Spray Showing Teeminal Buds Paktially Thinned. out, that sun and air may exercise their ripening influences, as in this way the flowers, when they develop, promise to be of a higher order of merit. Where a freer display is desired, and where bushy plants are preferred to all others, buds of a terminal kind are the only ones that G 2 S4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. should be selected. As before explained, terminal buds mark the termination of the plant's growth, and if the second crown buds be pinched out, and the growths that surround them be grown on, these same shoots, in most instances, will ultimately develop terminal buds. When the terminal buds are produced, the grower must deter- mine for himself how many of the buds he will permit to remain on the plant. If the whole of them be retained, the plants will develop handsome sprays, but rather too densely flowered. It is better, therefore, to reduce the number of buds in the cluster, so that each flower may develop without unduly crowding its neighbour. This is entirely a matter of choice for the grower, and he must determine for himself how many buds shall be retained, forming his conclusions by the number of blooms he de- sires ultimately to evolve. There is one charm about the blooms developing from the terminal buds, that is, they seldom damp, and the resulting flowers are known to re- main in a fresh condition a very long time. If the plants be housed in a cool glass structure, the colour of the blossoms will be of the best, and their form all that one coidd desire. Young Plant .Showini: Three Shoots Following the Break lirf) OK Stopping. AUTUMN TREATMENT. 85 CHAPTEK ]V. AUTUMN TREATMENT. Housingr the Plants — The mid-seasou sorts in pots should be placed under glass during the closing days of September, or the early days of October. Previous to this, however, the glass structure should be carefully over- hauled, and, if needs be, a coat of paint given both inside and outside, to prevent drip from the roof. This should be done previous to the housing, as it is impossible to do it afterwards, and not a season should pass without these pre- cautions being taken in good time. Notonly should the glass structure be painted when that already on the woodwork is impoverished, but the glass should also be cleaned as a work of p)reparation. It is an excellent thing to arrange some system of shading on the inside of the glass struc- ture. This is much better than putting any shading of a permanent character on the glass, as the latter cannot very well be removed when the weather is dull and unplea- sant. A simple means of shading may be erected by run- ning a few lines of galvanised or other wire from one end of the greenhouse to the other, and stretching on this tiffany or muslin, arranged to run on brass rings. This may be pulled across at will during periods of bright sun- shine, and by its use the display may be prolonged, and the colours of the flowers, some of which are very suscep- tible to the influence of the sun, be saved from scald- ing or burning. If under cover, the shading material is so well controlled, and has the advantage in the dull weather of exposing the blooms to the whole of the light available. When arranging the plants in the glass structure, see that they are brought up well under the glass, not too near, 86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Cfi'taiiily, l)ul. Iea\ illy sufficient «2)iiee ovrrliead to control ami inspect them as desired. Ivijh plant, previous to being taken indoors, siiould have the surface soil cleaned of weeds, and any unpleasant excrescence removed. The pots should be brushed clean, and seared and decaying leaves also removed. Plants affected with mildew should be dusted with tlo\vers of sulphur, and if this be applied when this fungoid disease is first seen, the trouble may be checked, if not entirely removed. J )o not crowd tlie plants in any circumstances, as this is a sure cause of disaster. See that sufficient space is given to each one, that air may pass through with ease, and that the whole of its growth may reap the advantage of light and air while under glass. Fumigation — As soon as the decorative jdants are arranged in position under glass, tliey should be thoroughly fumigated, in order to destroy lurking insect jiests which iiuaiiably are to be found some- where or other on them. Any welhknown fumigating material may be used for this purpose; the old method of fumigating with tobacco-paper v.'ili be found to answer the purpose as well as any other. The special compounds, eac-h of which claims for itself some particular attribute, sliiiuld in evei'.y case bo used in the manner prescribed in the directions issued with them. Tobacco-paper is recom- mended in this instance, as the plants may be fumigated with this simple material at all times without injury to the plants or flowers. Exception may be taken to recommend- ing such an old remedy, but it is cheap and effectual, and for small glass structures mors likely to meet the needs of tliii'sc piissessing them. The tobacco-paper should be torn up into shreds and placed in a five or six-inch pot, and this stood on other inserted pots, or bricks, etc., so that. an under-current of air will assist the paper to burn. A hot cinder or two placed among the tobacco-paper will cause it to smoulder, and achieve the purpose desired, and if the house be left for, say, thirty minutes, the plants should be ridded of the insects with which they were infested. It is a good plan to do this on two consecutive evenings, Chrysanthemums for Gree>house Decukatiun. 88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. in case any of the insects may have recovered sufficiently to repeat their attacks. By continuing the fumigation for two nights, there is no doubt at all about the effectual character of this operation. Subsequently, some two or three weeks hence, when the plants are in full blossom, should traces of green-fly an'd other troubles of this eort be seen in the flowers, again repeat the operation. Do not be anxious about tha condition of the flowers when treated to this somewhat drastic measui'e, as they pass through the ordeal of twenty minutes to half an hour's fumigation without any apparent damage to the tender florets. At the time fumigation is being carried on, all openings of the glass house should be closed, and any points at which escape is likely to be made, should be temporarily pasted over, so that the best may be done under the circum- stances. Watering:, etc — Keep the surface soil in the pots free from weeds, and .■should this at any time as- sume a slime-like appearance, gently remove the accumulation, so that the proper aeration of the soil may be possible at all times. Continue to apply liquid manure until the blooms are about two-thirds developed, but on no account should this be given in a stron;; condition. It is a good plan to alternately water with clear water, in this way clearing the air passages of the soil. The water at all times shotild be as nearlj^ as possible of the same temperature as that of the greenhouse itself, and this may be easily brought about by adding warm water to that stored for the purpose of watering in the ordinary way. There is more in this little detail than may appear on the surface, as chills and checks to the progress of the plants not seldom take place when this detail is ignored. Earwigrs and Caterpillars — Keep a sharp look- out for caterpillars. Observe the same rule in de- tecting them as was recommended in an earlier note when the plants were outdoors. Unless speedily AUTUMN TREATMENT. 89 discovered they will quickly eat away portions of the buds, and as these develop, their disfigurement will render them useless for the purpose of decoration. Look through ths plants by the aid of a dark lantern at night, turning this full on the blooms at the time of inspec- tion. In this way earwigs and caterpillars may often be caught and speedily despatched. Trap earwigs by the same methods as formerly recommended, and inspect the former regularly, destroying the latter each morning, by shaking the contents of pots, boxes, or bean stalks into boiling water, etc. Ventilation, Shading, etc — Ventilate with care, always leaving the top ventilators open. At all times avoid draughts, and for this reason shut off top air on the side of the glass house in which the wind is blowing. Side ventilators also should be opened, when this may be done without causing draught also, regulating this accord- ing to the position of the wind from time to time. A free circulation of air among the lower portions of the plants is at all times desirable ; this keeping the atmospheric con- ditions in a buoyant state, and rendering the plants and flowers less liable to damp in consequence. Pick off decay- ing foliage, remove spent blossoms when these are seen, and, as far as possible, maintain a sweet condition of the air under glass. Do not forget to make full use of the blinds inside of the glass house. By their use the display of blossoms may be prolonged, and those flowers with high and rich colours may be preserved for a greater length of time thereby. The blinds should be drawn across as occa- sion needs, and during bright sunshine, it is well to take full advantage of this means of protecting the flowers. Keep all superfluous side shoots rubbed out, thus coacentrating all the energy of the roots on the development of the buds and blossoms of the plants. Do not permit moisture to accumulats on the floor of the greenhouse, should this be of a permanent char.icter, such as concrete or tiles, etc. When water is seen in pools on the floor, it should be wiped up by the aid of a house flannel, etc. 90 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Temperature. — On warm days the greenhouse door should also be left open, and on no account should the tem- perature of the glass structure be allowed to exceed, say, 50 deg. With the approach of autumn and muggy weather, with mists and fogs also as an accompaniment, the hot- water pipes should be just nicely warmed. This will have the effect of dispelling dampness and moisture, and also assist in the opening of the fast evolving buds. On no account let the hot-water pines becoixie too hot. Only during severe frosts will it be found necessary to heat these to any great extent. Under conditions such as the fore- going, ther? is no reason why the plants should not be maintained in a thoroughly healthy condition, and their foliage retained till the end. Seeing that this adds so very much to the beauty of their display, every means should be taken to maintain a nice even temperature while the plants are arranged in the glass structure. Headers will see now why crowding was so strongly deprecated, as this works so effectually against the plants being maintained in a healthy and vigorous condition. SiNOLE ClIRYSANTHEMtTM, " HlLDA TjAWKEXCE.'' 92 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHAPTEE V. LIFTING PLANTS FROM OUTDOORS. Decorative plants inay also be planted outdoors with an almost certain prospect of success. Thej need not be potted up in their early stages in the manner that those grown in pots usually are. As a matter of fact, they may be treated in the manner prescribed for the early and semi-eai'ly garden varieties. It will be re- membered that tire garden sorts, soon after root- ing, were planted out in prepared soil in cold frames, and by a hardy system of culture were ready for planting out in their flowering quarters towards the end of IVIay. It is a good plan to treat a batch of the decorative varieties in this manner, with the object in view of lifting the plants later on in the season, lire smallest pieces rooted in the early Summer, tretted in this way, will make magnificent plants for lifting by the middle to the end of October, and the saving in labour is incredible. As the plants are lifted from the open border, they should be transferred to pots of convenient size ; boxes also may be used for the same purpose. Planting'- — The plants should be embedded firmly in the soil about two feet apart, in rows of a convenient length to suit the circumstances of each individual grower. In this case, too, plant in rows about three feet apart, label each variety with care, staking at the same time, and looping the growths rather than tying them tightly together. This should save one all the bother and trouble of potting up the j-oung plants in their early stages, and LIFTING PLANTS FROM OUTDOORS. 93 the subsequent work of finally potting them. This method of treating the decorative sorts will be found a great boon. Pompons. — Some of the pompon sorts answer to this method of culture exceedingly well. We have lifted plants in this way, to follow the usual mid-season display of de- corative varieties under glass, and they have kept the greenhouse and conservatory gay right throughout Decem- ber. There is no doubt this simple method of culture will commend itself to many, and any surplus plants treated in this way will- be much appreciated at the time men- tioned. Singfles. — Single-flowered varieties answer well to this treatment, and there is no reason why all the different types, each of which has a charm of its own, should not be treated in like manner. Why confine our selection to the Japanese? All the types should be represented, and in this connection, it may be well to refer to plants of the quaint and curious flowers of the Spidery chrysanthe- mums. When planted outdoors in the early summer, and lifted towards the end of October, they make a display for Christmas-time that growers seldom meet with.- 94 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHAPTER VI. LATE-FLOWERINQ VARIETIES. Late flowering clu'} sautlieiiiums have a value that in- creases as the season advances. Those that come into flower during November are generally recognised as mid-season kinds, and of these, tliere is an immense number. But, as the November l Market Chkys ' Hettv Wei, iANTHEMl'M, ^ a promising market variety of Japanese form. Colour, orange- huff. The petals droop slightly and twist in pleasing fashion, huilding a pretty Japanese reflexed bloom. f.c.c, .\.<;.s. Part IV.-MARKET CULTURE. CHAPTER I. MOST PROFITABLE TYPES. The cultivation of chrysanthemums for market is a ques- tion which until recent years has not received the attention its importance warrants. More recently great develop- ments have taken place in the cultivation of the free- flowering kinds for market purposes, and with the impetus given to their culture by the introduction of an increasing number of good early and semi-early sorts, together with quite an interesting liot of really excellent late-flowering kinds, the position of market growers has considerably im- proved. There was a time, not many years since, when the selection of varieties fof market uses was confined to a comparatively limited number of sorts, but all this is now changed. Men have come to see that if good prices are to be obtained, and a profitable occupation followed, flowers of the best description must be forthcoming. It must not be inferred from this, that large and handsome exhibition blooms are those to be desired, as these, gener- ally speaking, do not repay one for the trouble and ex- pense of growing them for market. After taking into con- sideration the amount of capital expended in the produc- tion of large blooms, and the comparatively small price ys CHRYSANTHEMUMS. realised for the sale of tliem, the grower is not justihed in continuing the experiment. Popular Taste as Reg^ards Colour. — What really pays the grower are blooms of good and distinct shades of colour, and those also that retain their colour well, right until the end of the blossoming period. Vai'ie- ties differ very much in their character and colour, some being particularly fleeting, while others are equally lasting in the latter respect. To find out what these varieties are, the grower for market should always be testing new sorts as they come into commerce, giving theiTi a trial under his own system of cultm'e. While considering the question of colour, one must also remember what is the popular taste in regard to this matter, and this is a much- vexed question. Fashions change, and tastes differ from year to year, and it is astonishing how quickly some sorts sink into oblivion, while others attain a prominence which may be attributed entirely to popidar esteem, on account of either their form or colour or of both these points. Constitution and Flowering' Properties — Chrj'santhemums for market purposes must possess a good constitution, be free flowering, and have some other good quality, such as earliness or lateness in flowering, to en- hance their value, and the wise grower, and he who desires to excel, and make good profits, is he who is always on the alert, testing and experimenting with the reputedly good sorts, as well as those of which comparatively little is known. The market grower would act wisely if he were to attend the leading exhibitions and the various floral committees in the different centres of the United King- dom, where new varieties are staged by one and another. Invariably on these occasions, not only in the competitive stands, but also in the exhibits set up by the trade special- ists, he may see something new and choice, which may seem capable of development for mark'et purposes, and in this way, he would be first in the field in acquiring stock of something new, which should subsequently lead him to Market Chrysanthemum, " Mo:ney Maker." h2 lOO CHRYSANTHEMUMS. place on the market novelties in colour and form, which those less wide-awake would not be able to do. Japanese and Incurved Sorts — Curious to re- late, the market men seem to be entirely bent on popu- larising the Japanese sorts only, ignoring the claims of, and the undoubted value there is in, many of the other interesting forms of this delightful flower. Why should not some of the incurved variet'es, which are free flower- ing and which also possess pleasing form, and choice and beautiful colours, be more extensively grown? There is a prospect of the incurved type of the flower becoming more popular in the market, the taste in society for the time being, tending in that direction, but how long this may last is a debatable matter! The market grower should watch the constant change, and whichever way the current of opinion may take, he should see that he is not the last to observe the change. Anemone-flowered Sorts — It may he well here to call attention also to the claims of the anemones, some of which, if grown for market uses, could not fail to please the general public with their quaint and curious forms, as well as their pleasing tints of colour. Many of the large- flow, red anemones, including the Japanese anemones, are, in this connection, wondrously free flowering, and if only accorded just the amount of attention that market growers invariably give to other types of the flower, there is no reason why profitable results should not accrue to those taking them in hand. SIngrle and Pompon Varieties — It is pleasing to laiow- Ihiil tlie ^^ingle-floworrd sorts are being taken in hand by market growers, and already evidence is not wanting that several well-known growers are ordering a stock of these dainty kinds, of which there are few equals for decorative uses. There are both large-flowered and small-flowered sorts, each of which has a charm of its own, and in the large-flowered section are many beautiful MOST PROFITABLE TYPES. lol floweis, some three inches across, which are produced in the greatest profusion on plants possessing a splendid bushy habit, and a good constitution. There is money in the single sorts, if good varieties and distinct colours be selected, and the plants accorded good culture. The Pompons, too, especially some of the miniature-flowered sorts, have a value of which few market men seem to be aware. The time will come, and that very soon, probably, when those who market these, by confining their attention to the more pleasing kinds, in good bunches of partially disbudded sprays, will obtain a price that will make those growing the Japanese type quite envious ; they only want to be marketed in proper form and be seen by the British public, for the latter to show their ap^jreciation, which they will undoubtedly do, to the advantage of those growing them. Market Growers' Mistakes — The great mistake market growers have made in late years has been that of confining their attention to just a few sorts, and these chiefly of Japanese origin. As most of them have come into flower at one time, there has been a plethora of just these few varieties in the market, and, as a consequence, prices have been unremunerative. Those who want to grow for profit should so arrange their selection that they begin with an interesting series in September, following these with some of the better semi-early kinds in October, and in succession for November for the mid-season display, a rather larger list of several types should be selected. Then for December and January, by a careful selection of sorts, one may continue the display of really first-rate flowers throughout the winter, and as the season is getting towards the close, the late sorts should be enhanced in value. 102 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHArTER TI. PROPAGATION AND CULTURE. Propagration — Propagation of the early and semi- early varieties for market may begin as the days begin to lengthen in the new year, and at this time, without any extra cost in the way of forcing the old stools into growth, fhei'e should be an abundance of excellent matei'ial for cuttings available. Towards the end of January and Feb- ruary commence with the early-flowering kinds, following on in successional order with the various sections as cut- tings may l)e obtained. Cuttings may be inserted in shal- low boxes, so well known to all market growers, or, what is better,, and also a great saving of laboui', is that of making up cutting-beds on the side-benches of the houses. Any light and gritty compost will do, but it were better to make up the soil with loam and leaf-mould, oi' eocoanut fibre in the place of the latter, x^ith a free admixture of sand, pass- ing this through a sieve, and well mixing the whole before vising. Cuttings may be dibbled into the cut- ting-beds in immense quantities, according to the space at one's command, and if the temperature be maintained at about 4") to 50 deg., more or less, there is no reason why they should not be rooted within two or three weeks. As soon as the cuttings are rooted in the boxes they should be gradually hardened off, and subsequently placed in cold frames outdoors. Those dibbled in the cutting-bed when rooted should be lifted and placed in boxes in rows two or three inches apart, and when established and har- dened off, placed as advised with the others in cold frames. After placing in cold frames Iceep the latter closed for a day oi- two, subs Mpi'-'it to \\liich admit aii' gradually with Semi-Early 104 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. the experience of more genial weather. The young phmts may be exposed to the open by having the frame lights entirely removed, when all danger of frost is over, and cut- ting winds are things of the past. Constantly overlook the plants, and by the end of April or i\'Iay they should make nice bushy pieces. Outdoor Plants — The early-flowering kinds should be planted outdoors in May in ground that has been well dug, in rows about three feet apart, and about two feet apart in the rows. Generally speaking, this amount of space will meet the needs of the most branching sorts. The Pompon kinds will be satisfied with rather less space. Take particular care to plant firmly, treading in each indi- vidual plant all rouna to ensure this being properly done. Stakes should be inserted for the support of the plants, cither at the time of planting or immediately subsequent thereto, and as soon as the plants are sufficiently tall, they should be securely t'ed to the stakes. Eight through the growing season the growths should be looped to the stakes from time to time. It is a great mistake to bunch up the growths tightly, as in this way it is impossible for air and sun to do their beneficent work, and consequently the ultimate results usually are not so satisfactory as they might otherwise be. As opportunity offers and labour can be spared, the ground between the plants should be hoed over from time to time, thereby keeping the weeds under and aerating the soil ; by these means promoting growth of a kind that should ultimately produce sprays and blooms of the verj' best. Where the soil is of a poor character, it is well when the buds are nicely set to give them a few applications of liquid manure. This should be varied from time to time, and as soon as the blooms show colour, should be gradually withheld. Pot Culture. — Reverting now to plants intended for pot culture, these should be rooted in boxes, and on the greenhouse benches, as advised for the early-flowering varieties. From January onwards until one's supplv is PROPAGATION AND CULTURE. 105 complete, propagation may be carried out continuously. During the late winter and early spring, cuttings are usually to be had in abundance, and these of a kind that root exceedingly quickly. Dibble in cuttings as advised for the early sorts, and, when rooted, the boxes should be placed in frames outdoors, and the young plants gradually hardened off. Those in cutting-beds on the benches should be boxed up as previously advised, and hardened off in a similar manner. If more convenient, those rooted in the cutting-beds may be transferred direct into small pots, say, sixties, placing either one, two, or three in them, according to the vigour of the respective plants. These, when potted up, should also be placed in the cold frames and hardened off as were the plants raised in boxes. Subsequently, when opportunity offers, the plants in boxes may be transferred into pots; the strongest individual plants may be placed in " fifty-fours " (4|in. pots), while the weaker ones may be placed two in " forty-eights," or three in " thirty-twos," while those of puny or indifferent growth may be thrown on the rubbish heap, as one would have little time to spare on plants that promise little at this time. Pot firmly, using soil of a good, lasting kind, and for this purpose a suit- able compost should be made up of three parts loam and half a part each of manure and leaf-mould, to which should be added a free sprinkling of bone-meal and crushed char- coal. Mix the compost thoroughly before using, and, if possible, turn it over once each day for a few days pre- vious to potting up. Subsequent to the repotting, place the plants again in cold frames, or in a rough structure that may be erected to answer the same purpose. Cold and cutting winds are often troublesome, bringing with them insect pests, and giving the plants a very abject appearance. For this reason take every precaution to pre- vent them suffering in this respect, and gradually harden off while the plants are getting established. The great thing is to keep the plants hard in their early history, that their growths may be stocky and consolidated. Give them a good watering in with clear water by the aid of a fine- rosed can, and this will last for some time to come. II IS CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Summer Quarters — During tho latter pait of Ma.y or early June, (ir as t,nvn as the weather is iiieely settled and genial, stand the plants outdoors, and arrange them in scjuare beds in groups of a sufficient nmnber that one lean attenil to their requirements with comparative ease. ■tStand the pots on sifted ashes, coke-breeze, tiles, boards, ur any other suitable material, to jirexent the ingress of Morms, although preference should be given to the two first mentioned substances, as these maintain a cool bottom. If possible, the situation of the standing-ground thus early should be sheltered from cold and cutting winds. No better position at this tiun,'. can be provided than a situa- tion with a southein aspect. When the plants are large enough, give each one the support of a stake of suitable length, making the shoots secure to these with raffia. As the plants form the break bud, take up three shoots in most instances, although in the case of some of the more robust and branching kinds a larger number of shoots may be taken up from this point. Should any of the points of the shoots be infested with green-fly, a dusting of tobacco powder will quickly eradicate them. While the plants are progressing, the soil for the final potting should be got into readiness. This may be done at any time during June, or as soon as the plants are ready for the final shift, accord- ing to theic earliness or lateness of ifowering. The grower must use his connnon-sensc at this time, potting on only those plants that are well rooted, and have thoroughly used up the chief constituents of the soil in which they are potted. Final Potting. — The soil for the final potting may he made up of the following ingredients, and is given in parts so that the grower, according to his requirements, may make up either a small or a large heap to suit his purposes: Of loam take four parts, and leaf-mould, well-decayed manure, mortar rui)l>ish, or charcoal, and wood ashes, each a quarter of a part, and add thereto a free sprinkling of ground bones and artificial manure. Coarse sand should be added in sufficient quantity to make the compost PROPAGATION AND CULTURE. 107 porous, and the proportion in wliicli this sliould be used will depend entirely upon the cliaractor of the soils com- prising the coiBpost. Thoroughly mix, and turn over tlie heap repeatedly before using. Good drainage is essential, and for this purpose ordinary potsherds should be utilised. Pots eight inches, nine inches, or ten inches in diameter should be used for final potting. Plants in three-inch pots should be tranferred to the eight-inch pots, and those in five-inch and six-inch pots, into nine-inch and ten-inch pots respectively. Pot firmly, ramming in the soil all round by the aid of a wedge-shaped rammer. Finish off neatly, and when completed, stand the plants in square beds to establish ; on this occasion also standing them on coke-breeze or sifted ashes for preference. Staking:, Disbuddingr, etc — Insert stakes of suffi- cient length at the time of potting, and when the plants are well established stand them in rows at least four feet apart, and not too close to one another in the rows. Do not commence to feed until the pots are full of roots, and then, as advised in other cases, vary the manure applied from time to time. When the plants make their second break, take up some three or foiu' shoots on each of the original ones, and finally from the last break take up the same number again to the terminal buds. In all cases where more than one plant is potted up in the pots of the sizes already mentioned, the number of shoots taken up from the break bud and others subsequently must of course be reduced, otherwise they would become unmanageable. This will give the grower plants carrying some two or three dozen blooms of a fine order, and, if the shoots be disbudded to one bud on each, flowers of very fair quality will be developed, and each one on a stout foot stalk of good length. It may not be possible in all cases to carry up so many growths. The grower must to some extent use his common-sense and act accordingly. Where the plant may be of a weaker growth he must of necessity reduce the nmriber of growths to be carried on from time to time, so that too great a strain may not bo ills CHRYSANTHEMUMS. pLit upou the rL'Soui'cfS of each plant. It should be a sim- ple matter to raise plants that will carry any number of blooms between eighteen and thirty, and in tliis way pro- duce a profitable crop of flowers in their respective seasons. During the summer or growing season side growths must be rubbed out persistently, otherwise they will detract from the value of the plant, and much of its energy be exhausted thereby. Disbudding undoubtedly pays, more generally speaking, although there is a demand for free flowering sprays when the flowers are not too crowded. Preference, however, should be given to plants that are disbudded or partially so. Late-Struck Cuttingrs — Late-struck pieces may be grown as pot plants for window decoration and similar purposes. When struck late they should be topped twice, first when not more than six or eight inches high, and allowed to run on from the last topping to the terminal buds. In this waj charming little plants may be de- veloped, capable of producing a very free and interesting display of flowers. It is possible by these means to insert cuttings as late as May and June, the resulting plants giving a free display in November and December. Housing- the Plants — Mid-season or November flowering kinds should be placed under glass during the early days of October, and earlier should the weather give promise of frost. Keep the glass structure at an equal temperature at all times, and only when the buds are be- ginning to show colour should a little warmth to the pipes be applied. This will assist in the more easy development of the blooms, dispel moisture in the glass structure, and save the flowers from damping. The late-flowering kinds must be kept very cool indeed when placed under glass, and their housing should not be done until the latest pos- sible moment. If it be possible, do not house these until the latter half of October, taking good care, however, to watch the weather in case a change be denoted which \\ould be to their disadvantage. While under glass the na ^yiFi « /,» / ,!■' W.4BK M, 1 i^'^-^/JrlBr' 1 ■'/'■".^^^' T^ -^^JB W'^r'f " Jit' '".'''' ■^"I^^^'-Ik i ^^' Wm^Ji^^ ■* ^^p^mf'"' ¥ M ■/■■ ' i- V if'.V 1r'i"^^'i)^''*i^^^ii''^^'^^^^' " ^ ^ W^B^Mifl b E. ;i»v' ■Wt^^^w'^W) \ H I 1 10 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. l)lauts must be kept absolutely cool at first, aiul in no way excited into growth. Doors and ventilators must at all times be kept open, and even during the early frosts, when not of too severe a character, the grower may dis- pense with the use of his heating appliances. As the season advances, wdien getting well into Novemlier, and flowers are giving evidence of development, just a little heat may be applied, but on no account should the struc- ture be allowed to exceed that of 45 to 50 deg. In this way late- flowering kinds may be kept just slightly progressing, and one may maintain a display until quite late into the season. ClIAi'TI'^lt, III. MARKETING THE FLOWERS. (Jrou'ers of market plants are ton apt to send their l/lo(ims to just a h'W \\'idl-kiio\\"n markets and spe- cial centi'es in the United Kingdom, and in consi'- quence are les« likely to obtain good prices for the blooms, owing to the glut that fre(piently arises in conse- quence. A far more profitable result would accrue were growers to make an effort to open up new markets, and (jroof has been forthcoming of late where many towns in the United Kingdom, ^\'ith populations of anything above fi\e thousand, are \'ery badly served in this respect. From recent observation one has been astonished at the wairt of enterprise iir centres of the kind referred to, arrd there is not the slightest doubt that if market growers would take rather more than ordinary pains, and endeavour to estab- lish stands on market dajs in some of the more densely populated towns, better prices would be obtained for their plants and flowers, and a demand created which, at the prcf^ont time, through want of enei'gy, is lost. There is MARKETING THE FLOWERS. Ill money in this direction, and the love for flowers amidst the thousands of toilers in some of the manufacturing dis- tricts would be encouraged, and a profitable business ac- quired by those prepared to take the trouble. Regular- supplies to existing shops might also be arranged, and if; only this aspect of the question were followed up and con-- sistently maintained, the nucleus of a good business wouldi very soon be created. Plitmed CiiRYSANTiiEMUM (Disbudded), "Kim; of Fi^fmes." Packing- the Flowers — After picking, the blooms should be allowed to stand with their stems in water all night, or, at any rate, for some hours. This en- sures their arriving perfectly fresh, provided that they be not crushed in the boxes. The flower salesmen send boxes which hold from three to four dozen single blooms, according to their size — the former is the more common number — or from one to two dozen bunches. They should I I'-i CHRYSANTHEMUMS. be lined with blue pa2:)er, allowing the sides and ends to lap over a few inches. No paper suits the purpose so well 33 the deep blue, which seems to go well with flowers of any shade, and always gives them a first-class appearance. Pink paper, on the contrary, though very often used, nearly alwaj's makes the produce packed in it look common. Single blooms realise the highest prices in the market, so all blooms that are large enough, and have fairly long, straight stems, should be picked out first, leaving the smaller ones for bunching. Before packing single blooms it is necessary to make a number of paper tubes or cushions, the object of which is to keep the blooms, which rest on them, from being jiressed on the bottom of the box, and also to hold them in place, so that they cannot be tossed about during the journey. These tubes should be made of stiff newspaper, with just an outer layer of blue paper to make them look well. In size they should be about an inch in diameter, and slightly longer than the width of the box, so that when they are pressed ir.to it thej' wedge between the sides, and keep the flow'ers steady. To begin the actual packing, lay one of the tubes across the bottom of the box, an inch or so from the end, and on this place a row of blooms, which should only just touch one another. For the first row blooms with long stalks should be used, as they have the whole length of the box to lie in, whilst those with their heads in the centre have only about half the room for their stems. Having placed a similar row at the opposite end, the second rows can be proceeded with. To rest the heads on, press down a tube on to the stems of each of the first rows, a few inches from the blooms, so that when the second rows are in place they will be just clear of the first ones, and one step higher up. Third and fourth rows are added to each end in the same way, all the stems interlacing on the bottom. Til the middle there will be a space in which a label stating the contents can be put. To complete the packing, n sheet of paper is laid over the top of the box, extending MARKETING THE FLOWERS. 113 over the edges, and the lid put on oyer it. Good blooms packed in this way look splendid, but they must be good ones. Any that are small, or have short or crooked stems, are much better in bunches. Bunchingf. — It is usual to make the bunches in a dia- mond shape, each bunch consisting of a dozen blooms. One bloom shows at the top, below that come two in a row, then two rows of three, then another row of two, and lastly a single bloom. Some of the leaves should be stripped off the lower part of the stems, and the bunch tied together with raffia. No cushions are needed in pack- ing bunches ; nothing more can be done than simply put- ting them face upwards into the boxes (already lined with paper) as close together as they will go without crushing, and finishing off with paper and lid as already described. Three or four boxes can be tied together for sending away. Market Chrysanthemum, ("Mis.s Mukiel Smith." A beautiful market variet}', having long petals of good substance, building a Japanese reflexed flower. Colour, old rose, with bronze reverse. Splendid under arfcilic-iiil light. I Part V.-MISCELLANEOUS. CHAPTEK. I, SINGLE=FLOWERED VARIETIES, Ix the intiodiiction to this book only a very lirief refer- ence is made to the wingle-flowered varieties. As they now emljraee so many really beautiful flowei's and are re- jiresented by several distinct types, a duty is imposed on the writer of calling especial attention to their excellent qualities. It is oidy in more recent yeare that real interest has been evinced in the single-flowered chrysan- themums. At one time, in earlier days, chrysanthemum enthusiasts came to regard late November and December as the geriod of flowering of the singles, as they were only exhibited at that period of the year. When gi'owers began to appreciate their true decorative woith, new varieties of improved quality quickly came into notice, so that in the course of a few years we found quite a large number of pretty single flowers available for our decora- tions indoors from early November onwards. Now, we have an abundant supply of beautiful flowers, borne on dainty sprays, in colours and forms that are charmingly diverse. immense improvement has taken place, in con- sequence of which fact the singles bid fair to out-rival i2 116 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. the Japanese blooms for many of the less imposing deco- rations of both a private and public nature. This is good cause for congratulation, and should be a further induce- ment to those who know but little of these s.ingle-flowered kinds to take in hand the cultivation of just a few plants as a beginning. Early and Semi-Early Singr'es. — We have now uhat are known as Semi-early-flowering Singles, that tlower throughout OetxDber. They are at their best after about the first week in that month, and are very welcome for conservatory disjjlaj's. They bridge over the period from the early-flowering series until the November-flowering kinds succeed them. When the weather is open and the elements kind these semi-early singles are a welcome feature in the outdoor garden. The most remarkable development in the single-flowered type, however, is to be seen in the true early-flowering kinds. Within a period covered by three to four years the character of these plants and their display have altered in astonishing fashion. Acres of these early singles are now grown, and we are sanguine enough to believe that market growers who will be enterprising enough to take them in hand, and do them well, will find a ready sale for the flowers at remunerative prices. Private gardens will be made brighter and more beautiful by their use; the range of colours having extended in a remarkable degree and the habit of the plant and the freedom of its flowering im- proved beyond our expectations. These singles are of the easiest possible culture, sheaves of blossoms being developed throughout late August, September, and early October, on most plants when planted in soil in fairly good condition. An open sunny position suits them best, but they will grow very satisfactorily indeed in the small gardens attached to most villa residences. Avoid crowding the plants, however. Have the soil deeply dug and made fairly rich; plant each piece about two and ,'i-half feet from its nearest neighbour, and keep the soil between the plants freely stirred throughout the growing sin(Jle-flow6red varieties. U? period, aud good resultfj are euro to follow. Generally speaking, do not disbud the plants, a& they are better left alone in this respect. Only in the case of the more crowded cluster-sprays is it necessary to slightly thin out the more crowded buds. Types of Sing^les. — The small-flowered singles ehibrace all flowers two inches and less in dia- meter, and the large - flowered kinds include all blos- soms exceeding two inches in breadth. Most of the better singles are of medium size, viz., about three inches in diameter. There is an endeavour to create a new type, known as the Japanese Singles. The ray florets in this instance may be cm-led, twisted, and drooping, and may partake of any other quaint and in- teresting form, that can be regarded as curious and opposed to the more even and regular form of the other types. We are disposed to believe there is a good future for this Japanese type of the singles, as new and choice sorts are being exhibited each successive season. Greenhouse Culture — Cultural details as laid down for other decorative chrysanthemums will apply equally well to the single kinds. 118 CHkYSANTHEMUMS. CHAPTER II. THE AN EMONE= FLOWERED TYPES. In tlu' iiitiodiic'tqry notes to this little work tlie Anemoiip-Howei'ed t'hrysaiithemums wei'o very briefly allufled to. 'I'lioy ileserve especial recognition, however, because of their un(li)ul)te(l value as decorative pbintw i'oi' the greenhouse and conservatoi-y, as well as for tlieii' charms as cut flowers for indoor decorations. These quaint ami curious fioweis represent one of the neglected types oi the chrysanthemum, wliich the writer has en- deavoured of late to call attention to, in the hope that the beauty and grace of the flowi'rs ruay he a])])reciaf ed by a largei' ninnber of growers. Naturally versus Exhibition-grown Blooms. — We seldom see the Anemone-flowered Chrvsanthemiuiis at the nuniei'ous chi'ysanthemnm shows hidd during the autumn months, and not even at the great autumn festi- val of the leading society are they catered for iir any satis- factory degree. The mistake made by Chrysanthemum Societies is tluit of making provision for the exhibition of large blooms of higli culture, and of these not more than three or four flowei's are usLudly grown on each plant. These typi-s are ne\'er seen in better foim and condition than when they are grown in quite a free niannei-. In- stead of grooving but three or four blooms on each plant, at least twenty, and possibly doidjle that number, should be encouraged to develop. Such specimens dis-|)osed here and there in the greenhouse or conser\atory create a very pleasing diversion to the all too common practice of growers of filling their glass structures with the Japanese kinds only. I-'ieid} -flowered plants of the anemone kinds THE ANEMONE FLOWERED TYPES. 119 may be brought into effect by adopting tlie system of pinching or stopjiing the plants, as advised in the case of decorative clirysanthemums. The more drastic system of cutting-baclv the phints may also be followed witli advantage. This matter is also treated fully elsewhere. Types of Anemone-flovwered. — There are what are termed by the expert Large-flowered Anemones and Akemone-Flowered Pompon (Disbudded Blooms of), "Ast.\Rte." Japanese or Long-Tasselled Anemones. Both types have a beauty peculiarly their own, although the Japanese Anemones are the more quaint and fascinating. The former have a high, neatly-formed centre, or disc, with regularly arranged ray florets surrounding the same. The 120 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. disc or centre of the Japanese Anemones is less regular in outline, and the ray florets vary considerably in length, breadth, and arrangement; in some blooms the florets are narrow and much twisted, in others they are broad and curled, and in others the ray florets droop and iorm a beautiful fringe-like finish. Readers can imagine what freel.y-flowered plants of such interesting types of the "Autumn Queen " look like when at their best. Growere of decorative chrysanthemums would be well advised to grow a lesser number of the Japanese varieties and make up the difference with the types imder notice. The Pompon Anemones, as the name suggests, are miniature editions of their larger-flowered rivals. The plants when under good culture evolve a charming series of dainty blossoms, the inflorescence being defined well down the stems on which the sprays are produced. In some varieties blossoms are developed in the axil of each leaf. Culture. — These j^lants are not difficult to grow, and if the varieties mentioned in the selections given else- where be taken in hand, we have little concern for the result. Try just a few as an experiment, but grow them in bush form, so that a good crop of blossoms may be ensured. Commence in good time, if possible, preferably in the early spring, and grow on the plants to the ter- minal buds, thinning these out sufficiently to ensure each flower opening without being crowded bj' its neighbour. WINDOW CULTURE. 121 CHAPTEB, III. WINDOW CULTURE. As window plants chrysanthemums are not nearly so ex- tensively grown as their excellent qualities for this purpose fully warrant. The method of raising stock, and of growing them on subsequently is a very simple matter, so that any- one who so desires, may take in hand a small collection with the sure prospect of making a beautiful display in the window in the late autumn. How to Strike Cutting^s — The ingredients of the compost, as prescribed elsewhere, should be observed in this case, but the actual propagation needs just a little thought to meet the needs of would-be growers of plants for this purpose. Assuming those interested have no ac- commodation such as a greenhouse or cold frame in which to raise the plants, the difficulty may be overcome by mak- ing use of a window with a sunny aspect, no matter whether it be the living room or a spare room in the house. A small propagating frame may be made by placing in the window a box of s-ufficient depth and size to enable one to place in it a box of smaller size, or a number of small pots. This simple contrivance, if covered with a sheet or two of glass will answer the purpose of a propagating frame admirably. Of course, for window decoration only a few plants are required, so that extensive preparations in the way of pots and soil are not needed. Small pots are cal- culated to meet the needs of persons so placed. Pots measuring about three inches in diameter answer splen- didly. They should be crocked with care, and the crocks 122 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. covered with some of tlie rougher portions of the soil, and subsequently filled with the compost already referred to. A sprinlihng of silver sand over the surface will complete this preparatory work. Cuttings should be inserted round the inside edge of the pots, be prepared as already pre- scribed elsewhere, and on no account should they be nuide too long; three inches is ample. The bottom leaf shoidd be trimmed off, and the stems of the cutting cut through immediately below the joint. With a small dibber, a hole should be made, carrying down with it a small por- tion of the sand on the surface. The cuttings should be placed in this in such a manner that they rest on the bottom, and the soil should in each case be pressed firmly at their base. Water in with a fine-rosed can, label and transfer to the small proj)agating frame just described. Several varieties may be treated in this way, but it is better to confine one variety to each small pot, as in this way confusion is avoided, and one may know exactly what one is growing. In cases wliere a larger number of plants are required, shallow boxes should be used in preference to the small pots. Insert the cuttings in rows, and label each set before commencing with a new one. These, in the same way, after watering in, should be placed in the small pro- pagating frame, and covered with glass as suggested. In this way it is possible to raise a sufficient quantity of stock to meet the requirements of the grower who desires to make the most of his windows and beautify his house, and by so doing a really glorious display may be made in the late autumn. Summer Treatment, etc — When rooted, the cuttings should be potted up singly into small pots, and subsequently into those of a larger size as they fill the smaller pots with roots. They should be finally potted into those measuring about eight inches in diameter, potting firmly at the last repotting. During the summer time the plants should be stood outdoors in a sunny position, and if no other place is available, the garden paths will be found to answer the purpose admirably. The plants to be seen at their best should be grown on to the terminal buds, i.e., WINDOW CULTURE. J23 the buds that are the last to develop on the plants, and are those which mark the termination of the plants' growth. When the pots are well filled with roots, water with liquid manure, but in no ease should this be of a strong character Adopt the system of applying weak- doses and often, and, as the plants are to be flowered in- MrVrAT|rK]!-Kl,(l\VERED POMPOX, " BaI'.V. doors, it were hotter to use only artificial manures, as animal manures under the circumstances are prohibited. Treatment Indoors — Gas should not be burnt in rooms where the plants are flowering, otherwise they will quickly get into a bad way, and their period of flowering will be considerably lessened thereby. Never permit the plants to suffer for want of water. To ascertain if the I '-'4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. soil iitH'dK moisture rap the side of the pot ; if the sound in respo]isr he clear in tone water is needed; if dull and heavy, none is reiiuircd. The rooms should be venti- lated on every favourable opportunity, otherwise plant life, in such conditions, can hardly be satisfactory. Do not let the plants suffer from draughts. While the window is open the door should be closed, and, if pos- sible, occasionally both the bottom and top of the window should be opened, and by these means the period of flowering prolonged. The observance of these simple instructions should enable those who so desire, to have charming plants of the "Autumn Queen " to cheer and encourage them in the dull autumn months. To make the plants bushy, they should have the points of their growths pinched out two or three times during the early summer, and to ascertain how this should be done, follow the instructions given in another chapter specially devoted to this matter. CHAPTER IV. FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS. Both the early and semi-early garden sorts, as well as the decorative varieties in pots, lend themselves especially well for the purposes of indoor decoration in a cut state. This is an aspect of the question which is too frequently ignored, and as so much depends upon the proper disposi- tion of the sprays and individual blooms a little advice respecting this matter may not be out of place. How to Cut the Flowers — Sprays of the naturally- grown sorts obtained from plants in ihe open border are FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS. 125 specially well adapted for large vases, and any large recep- tacle where a bold and handsome display is desired. They should always be cut with a good length of stem or foot stalk, and that the flowers may last as long as possible in a cut state, it is a good plan to largely denude the stem of its foliage, and also to split the stem at the bottom. By these means the flowe"'^ niay be maintained in a fresh con- dition for several weeks, and if a portion of the stem be cut off from the bottom at intervals of a few days, and this, if possible, done while m the water, their period of freshness will be considerably lengthened thereby. That a graceful and elegant arrangement of flowers may be brought into effect, select sprays in which the buds are not too crowded. For this purpose, the clusters which are less densely flowered answer better, and those blooms of a starry kind certainly have a value which others, less attrac- tive, do not possess. How to Arrange Them. — In arranging flowers in vases or bowls and other receptacles of a somewhat simi- lar nature, their adjustment or disposition in the vases is so much more easily effected by having a wire netting fixed upon the top. This may be purchased from the hor- ticultural sundriesman and others, and if there is a diffi- culty in acquiring it or a sufficient number, the operator may easily make them out of a piece of wire net- ting with a small mesh. It should be made in shape to suit the receptacle for which it is intended, and may be held in position by fixing lengths of wire equi-distant on the sides of the netting, bringing these down, and fasten- ing round the stem of the vase itself. With this simple contrivance as a base, one may speedily make a most delightful floral picture, covering the wire with greenery or trailing material. The "Corona" wire arrangement is excellent for this purpose. Colour Harmonies and Contrasts. — As far as possible, arrange the flowers with full consideration for their artistic association. See that either a pleasing or l-'ii CHRYSANTHEMUMS. striking contrust bect which few persons arc capable of appreciating. Before leaving this subject it may be well to point out what may be considered one of the richest and brightest associations of colour with the decorative chrysanthemums, that is, yellow, orange, and crimson, using the last-mentioned colour less freely than the otfiers. At all times avoid crowding in the vases, etc., and see that each spray of blossoms, so to speak, speaks for itself, and on no account add an additional spray of blossoms just because there is plenty of material available. Grasses and Additional Foliagre. — The use of grasses and foliage from the hedgerovAs and the greenhouse FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS. 127 will assist to enhance the value of the display, and in this connection it is well to remember that some of the pleas- ing autumn-tinted foliage, which is so easily acquired in the autumn months, affords appropriate decorative ma- terial without an equal elsewhere. Do not use too much greenery, especially in some of the smaller receptacles, and when foliage of a green kind is used, see that it is of the brightest tint of green possible. Yellowish-green, as a matter of fact, is the colour most to be desired, as this assists to give a light artistic finish as well as covering some of the defects which bare stems, etc., always create. Arrangring Largre Blooms — With reference to the disbudded blooms for decorative uses, these being rather more formal in appearance, and consequently less artistic than the freely-flowered sprays, need to be arranged with a greater amount of care. It is sc easy when fixing these up in vases, bowls, epergnes, and the numberless utensils which are found in the house, to readily fall into the error of creating too formal an outline. This is specially notice- able where large vases are filled with these disbudded blooms. The decorator should try and break away from this inherent failing, and instead of making up a decora- tion that looks as if it had come out of a blanc-mange mould, to make the outline less even, arranging some of the more conspicuous blooms to give relief to the others, bj' slightly raising them, not all to the same extent, but varying them in such a way that, viewed from any quarter, the floral picture is a creation that is pleasing and interesting. The large, fine spikes of beauti- ful grasses which may be gathered from field and hedge- row, should be fixed up in the vase in such a way that they stand out well above the flowers, in this way also assisting in relieving the somewhat large and formal blooms of any heaviness or dumpiness, that they may appear to possess. Trailing; Foliag^e. — To overhang the sides of vases or entwine around the handles of baskets and to trail 128 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. across the table-cloth in the table decorations, the richly- coloured sprays of Ampelopsis — which is not confined to one variety only, but oi which there are several varieties that may be had in various tints of colour — will give a finish that nothing else seems capable of doing. Autumn-tinted Foliagre — The brambles, too, in the autumn, are very richly coloured, and they may be used for the same purpose; in fact, there is a wealth of material available at this season which may be acquired at little or no cost by taking a walk through the country lanes, where oak, beech, and numberless richly-coloured pieces of beautiful foliage may be gathered to en- rich the table at home. Berries, too, are invaluable. Crowding should at all times be avoided, and every flower should be so arranged that its beauty of form and colour may be seen in its adjustment in the vase, etc. Hand-Baskets — Hand-baskets filled with moss and blooms wired and stuck into this are quickly and easily arranged, and there are now to be had sharply-pointed zinc cones which may be placed in an inverted position in the moss, and those filled with water. Flowers arranged in them, will keep the decoration fresh for quite a long time. It is somewhat difficult to express in words all that one feels regarding this matter, an ocular demonstration being so much more convincing than a lot of advice. Hints to Exhibitors — When setting up bunches of the garden or decorative kinds in competitions, do not bunch them up too tightly. Arrange the sprays of flowers loosely, that grace and elegance may characterise their adjustment, and that the public may be able to form a correct idea of their value in the garden as well as their usefulness for the embellishment of the greenhouse or con- servatory. HINTS ON EXHIBITING. 129 CHAPTEE V. MINTS ON EXHIBITING. We will first deal with the early-floweiing varieties and the methods of exhibiting them. It is interesting to know that the exhibition of these comparatively hardy sorts has been encouraged from time to time, the National Chrysan- themum Society, as becomes its exalted position, being the first to take the matter in hand. For something like twenty years there have been cases in which the early- flowering varieties have been exhibited, and, although in the first instance the display was not of a very high order of merit, except in so far as regards the Pompon sorts, that always looked well. It was certainly encouraging to those who had the best interests of this flower at heart to persevere in their efforts, the consummation of which we are now participating in. With the advance in the number and quality of the different soi'ts and types, the character of the displays has changed, and instead of an early September exhibition, as was the custom in the earlier days, shows are now more frequently held in the closing days of September or during the early days of Octo- ber. The National Society invariably holds its show of early and semi-early kinds in the first week in October, and in the spacious transepts of the Crystal Palace, am- ple opportunity is given to display them at their best. There are shows now held in Nottingham, Melbourne, and many other important centres throughout the provinces, and each of these is claiming adherents to the cultiva- tion of the flower, and we may safely look forward in the near future to a great impetus in the culture of these types of chrysanthemum as a consequence of the interest 130 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. thereby created. Als() in some of the autumn shows of different liorticultural societies exhibits of the early chrysanthemums are catered for, and as the flowers im- prove in (juahty and increase in variety, there is every reason to i^elieve that tlie earlj' and semi-early garden sorts will play an important part in the futtu'e history of these societies. More Classes Needed a.t Exhibitions. — At the present time tiie National and other societies cater for flowers to be exhiliited in large and handsome bunches, in which the free-flowering character of the plants and the charming diversity of their form and colours are amply illustrated. Still much yet remains to be done. There is a desire among many growers to support the large blooms of the florists' ideal at the early shows, to the dis- advantag.' of the more freely-flowered kinds, not by com- parison, however. The later shows may well be left to loolv after the interests of the big blooms, thus giving file societies responsible for promoting the culture of these free-flowering sorts full opportunity of doing justice to so valuable a subject. The leading competitive class at the October show of the National Society does not cater for more than twelve bunches of Japanese, distinct, and when one considers the hundreds of really good varieties there are in cultivation, it must be admitted that this number is totally inadequate. It should be a simple matter to set up an exhibit containing at least three or four dozen bunches from the immense wealth of material available at the time this show is held, and it is to be hoped that the time is not far distant when tliis society and others who follow its lead will be more liberal in this respect. Method of Exhibiting the Flowers At the present time competitions ai'c almost exclusively devoted to flowers cut from plants growing in the open border, and the i^prays of blossoms are not disbudded, but shown in their natural state. In this way the charming characteristics and the undoubted decorative value of the VASK 01' EAKLy-Fl,OWiiKING CHKYSAiN'THEMUMS. K 2 132 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. flower is beautifully exemplified, and only those who have grown and exhibited them are able to fully appreciate the value of undisbudded sprays for decorative uses. Some societies stipulate that the flowers shall be exhibited in vases supplied by themselves, and the bunches must not exceed a diameter of eighteen inches. While this will make a most delightful display, it must be admitted that it hampers the exhibitor, and not infrequently has the effect of producing a display of a smaller character than many growers are prepared to put up. It were much better to leave the grower and exhibitor absolutel.y unfettered, per- mitting him to make up his bunches of a size to suit his own ideas, and in this way give encouragement to those who are of an enterprising nature. To limit the size of a bunch seems absolutely fatal to the proper exhibition of these flowers. Just one plant, if properly grown, will make two to three very handsome bunches, assuming that the more branching sorts are cultivated, and this being so, it is certainljr a great pity to insist upon the exhibit being confined to a certain diameter of certain proportions. Exhibiting: Varieties of Certain Colours. — Societies who feel an interest in this flower might well encourage the exhibition of varieties of certain colours, and as we now have so many to select from, it should be possible to put up six bunches of white or yellow, and so on, that the best varieties of a given colour may attain prominence, and be appreciated by the public for what they are actually worth. Where six bunches may be too many, and especially in the case of growers of a small number of plants, the numberof bunches might be reduced to three, and if this also be too many, let classes be created for one bunch only of the difl^erent colours, which may now be found represented in these plants. Hovw to Arrangre the Flowers Artistically. In arranging flowers in the vases, at all times avoid crowd- ing. Let each spray of blossoms, so to speak, speak for itself, and adjust it in position, that all its blooms and HINTS ON EXHIBITING. 133 the uppci- j)art oi the fohage shall contrast pleasantly, one lending effect to the other. That the blooms may be kept in a fresh condition longer, the foliage on the lower portion of the stem should be rubbed off, leaving foliage only on the upper portion of the flower stems. There is a tendency when adjusting disbudded sprays in the vases to crowd them together in a lumpy form, and unfor- tunately at some shows this method of staging the blooms is encouraged, to the disadvantage of an artistic display. It is to be hoped, as men grow wiser and appreciate the true value of the flowers, that due regard will be paid to their more pleasing disposition in the vases. Arranging: Disbudded Blooms.. — The time has come when some growers and others seem to think it is necessary that the blooms exhibited should be of a disbudded character, and already, at two or more of the leading shows, classes are provided in which these disbudded blooms are to be displayed. This perhaps has some merit in it, too, as it is calcu- lated to meet the needs of those persons who cannot see eye to eye with those who favour the undisbudded sprays. Such flowers need to be arranged with greater care, or their appearance in the vase may be somewhat heavy. They should be so arranged as to stand out distinctly, one from the other, and that they may not be too formal, just one here and there should be raised slightly above its neighbour in the vase ; in this way removing a too rigid outline, and giving a finish which would be impossible otherwise. In defining a class of this kind, care should be taken to stipulate how many blooms should be set up in each vase of disbudded flowers, otherwise this method of staging them may lead to some disagreement. It is also stipulated in some of these competitions, that chrysan- themum foliage only may be used as an embellishment. In all cases where this is so, additional foliage should be added by cutting sprays from some of the outdoor sorts, on which the buds have not developed satisfactorily or fully. When setting up disbudded flowers, almost the l:w CHRYSANTHEMUMS. whole of the fohage on the lower portion of the stem should be removed, otherwise the strain upon the re- sources of the flower will cause it to collapse much quicker than is the case where the foliage is removed. Stagring: the Exhibits — When the flowers arc set up on the tables, et.^., at the exhibition, the vases should be arranged in rows two or three deep, and the back and middle rows raised sutiiciently high that the whole of the flowers may be sl'ou. If this be done, a very pleasing display \\ill lie uuide, but if exhibited as a w'hole on one level the exhibit will lose much of its charm. The great need, after all, is to exhibit these flowers in such a way that their value in the outdoor garden may be properly illustrated, and by arranging them loosely and artistically in tiie vases, as we \i-A\e endeavoiued to lay down, there is evei-^- piosjiect of this ideal being p.chieved. Also, when Anally determining the respective positions that each vase is to take on the exhibition table, the exhibitor should give proper consideration to the association of colours, so that pleasing harmonies or equally pleasing contrasts may be created. It is astonishing how much the exhibit may be improved when consideration is given to this important matter. By a j^'oper disposition of the colours of the different varieties one may be made to lend advantage to another, and where consideration has to be given to the decorative effect of the display, the exhibitor should blend the colours or create pleasing contrasts, both of which have distinct advantages. This question of colour associa- tion has already been considered under another heading earlier in this book, and the reader will be well advised to refer to the methods therein laid down. Exhibits of the early flowering garden varieties as well as those of a de- corative charactier are occasionally met with at local and other shows, and where provision is made for such displays, it cannot be denied that they are usually distinctly charming. Groups of Plants — Free-flowering and partially dis- HINTS ON EXHIBITING. 135 budded plants lend themselves very effectively to arrange- ment in groups. They should never be rigidly tied, as are the formal flowers of the florist's ideal, but'should b^ left to develop their terminal buds, and the latter to be seen at their best and their decorative qualities amply illustrated should have grace and ease observed in Chrysanthemum (Undisbudded Spray of), " Nina Blick.", the system of tying finally. Such exhibits well illustrate the value of these plants for greenhouse and conservatory embellishment, and it cannot be denied that the thou.sands who admire these flowers for their beauty and their profuse display would be led to take up the cultivation of these plants where the larger 1S6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. bloomf; fail to encourage them to do so. The early sorts require plenty of root room, so that any grower de- siring to cultivate them in pots, etc., in the hope of exhibiting them should give the plants plenty of root room. Two or three plants in a large tub make a very handsome display, and not long ago at one of the fortnightly meet- ings of the Ivoyal Horticultural Society in London, an exhibit was made in which several plants of that splen- did early sort, " Horace Martin," with its bushy character of growth made a most remarkable display. Exhibiting Sing^le and Pompon Flowers. — The single-flowered sorts and the Pompons, too, are particu- larly charming when exhibited in partially disbudded sprays. These pretty flowers when too rigidly disbudded are somewhat formal and less likely to please one with their display than when only partially disbudded. At all times observe the same rule of setting them up loosely in bunches, that their decorative traits may be amply illus- trated, and their value for decorative use's clearly exem- plified. Always make a rule to gather the sprays with long flower stems, so that a dumpy arrangement may be avoided, and that grace and elegance in their display may be better brought about. Long stems invariably help one in making an artistic disposition of the flowers; it is astonishing what an effect the seemingly careless adjust- ment of such flowers will bring about in a decorative ex- hibit. Always see that the flowers arc true to colour, and never put in one vase, pale flowers and well-coloured flowers of the same variety. There should be absolute consistency, otherwise the exhibit will most assuredly lose points in competition with those where this rule is observed. With the foregoing remarks it is hoped that exhibitors may gain some information as to how exhibits of the out- door and the decorative kinds may be represented at their best. Much, however, must be left to individual initia- tive. PESTS AND DISEASES. 137 CHAPTER VI. PESTS AND DISEASES. As the chrysanthemum grower is only too well aware, there are a few pests and diseases which occasion him no small amount of anxiety in the cultivation of his favourite Black Afhis (enlarged 3 diameters). plants. There are, for instance, tVie aphides which infest the shoots, the Mining IVEaggot which tunnels channels in the leaves, the crafty earwig which feasts on the unfolding petals at night, to say nothing of mildew and rust, which 13S CHRYSANTHEMUMS. lire evtT on the alert to establish themselves on the leafage. These alone are suffteieutly formidable to do considerable injury, but, alas! there are others of a minor character that must not be despised, and so we must, for the benefit of the beginner iu chrysanthemum culture, give a brief description of each, with remedies for their eradication. Ants. — Various species of the highly intelligent family of Formicidse occasionally jn-ove a nuisance to growers by running over the plants and carrying aphides about. The aphides secrete a honey-like substance on their bodies, and the ants feed on this, hence the trouble aucl care they take of the former. When their food supply is short ants will eat their way into the buds and opening blossoms, and thus do harm in that way. IIemedies. — Ants may be easily trajjped by suspended hits of sponge soaked in treacle among the stems. When the sponge contains a lot of these pests, dip it in boiling \\ater. In the event of the roots of outdoor jilants being infested sprinkle guano thinly on the soil around each plant. Aphides. — The forms of aphides known as Greenfly (Rhophalosiphou Dianthi) and the Black Fly (Aphis Eumi- cis) infest the points of the shoots and also the leaves, damaging the cell structure by piercing the epidermis and sucking out the sap. These repeated punctures cripple the growth of the shoot and leaves, as well as prevent the stomata or leaf pores from carrying out their proper functions, owing to the surface being coated with the houeydew secretion left by the insects. As the flies mul- tiply very rapidly it natm-ally follows that a greai deal of mischief will be done iu a short time if the pests are not destroyed. Remedies. — In the case of the shoots being infested dust them with tobacco powder, leave it for a day, then syringe it off with water. Syringing with one of the many excellent insecticides advertised in " Amateur Gardening," or with the following home-made solution, will also be effectual. PESTS AND DISEASES. 13S. Boil two ounces of soft soap in a gallon of water for ten minutes, then add an egg-cupful of paraffin oil. Pour this into a two-gallon bucket, fill up with water, stir thor- oughly, and apply in a fine spray to the foliage during the evening. Other good and simple remedies are an ounce of carbonate of ammonia dissolved in a gallon of Aphis or Greexfly (sliglitly magnified). soft water; or 2Ib. of soda and loz. of aloes, dissolved in a gallon of hot water. All insecticides are best applied in the evening of a warm day. Fumigation with one of the many preparations sold for the purpose in the manner advised on p. 86 may also be practised under glass. Black Fly — See Aphides. I4IJ CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Bugs — Several kimls of tliese arc luirtlul to the buds of the chrysanthemum. The one we shah specially men- tion here is Anthocoris memoruni. The perfect insect measures one-eighth of an inch in length ; head and fore part of body shiny black; feelers yellow, with black tips; legs yellow, with a black band round the hindermost thigh; feet black; wings brownish-yellow. It punctures the buds and prevents them opening properly. Occasion- ally it does good, ho'vever, by feeding on greenfly, but it is doubtful if its good qualities outweigh the injury done to the buds. It is a very active insect, jumping off with alacrity when disturbed. Another species of Plant Bug, Calacoris bipunctata, frequently does much harm to the buds and leaves of clirysanthemunis. Tliis insect is like a large greenfly in shape and colour, and measures just under a quarter of an inch in length. It punctures the epidermis of the young leaves, and the points of the shoots, causing them to turn brown antl shrivel. Yet another species, Phytocoris campestris, is reputed to injure chrys- anthemum buds, points of the shoots and young foliage, the parts attacked having the appearance of having been poisoned. Wherever the shoots wither, turn black, or curl up very much, it may be taken for granted that one of the foregoing pests is the culprit. Remedies. — To catch the bugs' hold a butterfly net or a cloth in front of the plant and suddenly, but carefully, shake the shoots over this. The bugs will fall off imme- diately. Syringing with one of the remedies advised for aphides will also prove effectual. Cockroaches. — The cockroach 's very partial to the flower buds of the chrysanthemum, especially after the plants have been housed in autumn. They nibble away at the surface of the buds, and spoil the shape of the future blooms. Remedies. — Use the special remedies sold by all chemists and druggists. Cuckoo Spit or Frog^hopper (Philrenus spu- PESTS AND DISEASES. J 41 marius). — Tliis pest is closely related to the aphides, only larger. The perfect insects are most abundant in the autumn, and the male may be easily distinguished by its habit of leaping from plant to plant if disturbed. The female lays its eggs on the plant, and these hatch in due course into six-legged greenish grubs, with yellow bellies. They at once commence to feed on the shoots, sucking the juices by means of a powerful trunk with which they Cuckoo Spit ok Fkoghoppee Flies. pierce the epidermis. As the sucking proceeds, they gradually exude a frothy substance through their bodies, which completely hides them from view. On removing the covering the larva will dart away to the opposite side of the shoot to escape observation, and as soon as all is quiet again, it will start in a fresh spot, and recover itself 142 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. with frotii. 11 allowed to i-einaiii long on tlio plants, the larvie will cripple the shoots considerably; therefore, take prompt steps for their removal. In some seasons they are very partial to outdoor chrysanthemums, and dozens of frothy lumps will be seen en tin siioots. RF>rEDiKs. — The most efi'ective mode of cr^idieation is to grasp the larva betv/een the finger and thumb, and crush it. To make sure of seizing it, blow oft the froth first. If you do not care to do it with your fingers, re- move the larva with an aphis brush. Syringing with one of the liquid insecticides recommended for aphides will be beneficial also. Greenfly — yee Aphides. Leaf-mining Maggot — The larvct; of the Mar- guerite Leaf-mining Fly (Phytomyza aifinis) frequently do considerable injury to the leaves of the chi-ysanthemum by boring small channels between the two surfaces. The maggots feed on the s(jft tissues, caiise blisters and whit- ish zig-zag tunnels to form on the surface. When very numerous, the functions of the leaves are seriously dis- organised, and the health of the plant badly affected. The fly is like the Common House Fly in shape, and of a dark slaty blacK or ash colour. It measures one-fifth of an inch in the spread of its wing, and about one-twelfth of an inch in length. The flies appear in May and .June and deposit their eggs, by means of an ovipositor, in the cuticle of the leaf. When fully grown the maggots do not quit the leaves, but form chestnut-brown coloured pupae in the mines, and eventually emerge therefrom as perfect flies. .When the maggots are seen in the leaves it is use- less applying insecticides, as anything powerful enough to reach them would at the same time kill the leaves. The only remedy in such a case is to either pinch off and burn the infested leaf, or to crush the maggot between the finger and thumb in the leaf, or to pick out each grub with the point of a penknife or darning needle. As a preven- tative, syringing the foliage frequently during May and Marguerite Fly and Pup^ (enlarged 8 diameters). Leaves Injured by Marguerite Key Larv.b. l-*4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. June, when the flics are on the wing, with a paraffin solu- tion, is a first-rate plan. The solution should be j)repared as follows : Place a piece of bath brick in a wooden pail and pour as much paratiiu oil thereon as it will soak up. Fill the pail with water, and leave it for three or four days, then remove the scum from the surface, and syringe, or, better still, spray the foliage thoroughly with it in the evening. Prepared thus, the essence of the oil is thoroughly com- municated to the water, and no injury will be done to the foliage. The oiled surface acts as a deterrent to the Qy depositing its eggs. Leaf Rust. — Tliis is a pest which has only manifested itself of recent years. At one time it threatened to prac- tically exterminate the chrysanthemum, so virulent did it become all over the country. Thanks, however, to the united and vigorous efforts of growers, the Rust was greatly checked in its course, and now we only hear of it occa- sionally. It is scientifically known as Puccinia hieracii, and is a near relative of the Hollyhock Fungus. This fungus is not confined to the clu'ysanthemum only ; it is prevalent on our native hawkweeds, thistles, groundsels, burdock, and knapweeds, consequently wherever these weeds abound there is always risk of the fungus finding its way, either by the agency of winds, birds, insects, or human beings, to the chrysanthemums. The life history of this pest is, briefly, as follows: It is propagated by what are known as summer or winter spores. The former, technically called uredo-spores, con- sist of the brownish or snufli-coloured spots found on leaves infected with the fungus. The spots may be dis- persed singly about the surface of the leaf, or congregated in masses thereon. In any case, there are myriads of them, and these are distributed about by one or more of the agencies previously mentioned. When a spore alights on a leaf, and the conditions are congenial, it develops in eight to ten days, and gradually takes possession of the leaf, finally causing its ill-health and ultimate death. The winter spore, technically called the telutospore, differs PESTS AND DISEASES. 145 from the summer spore iu not germinating the same season. It either remains on the leaves or falls on the soil, and remains inactive till the following spring, when it develops, and begins to again spread the disease among the plants. It will thus be seen that the Leaf Eust may Leaf Rust (Puocinia HiiiRACii) make its appearance on plants in early summer through the summer spores being conveyed to the foliage by in- sects, birds, winds, or the clothing of persons who have previously been in contact with weeds or with chrysanthe- U6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. mums infected with the disease. Or some of the winter spores may be present in the soil used for strildug the cuttings, or on the leaves of the cuttings, and these have given birth to the Rust. The worst of pests of this kind is their presence is not disco\ered until too late to prevent them injuring the foliage. The spore ■., when germinating, penetrate the delicate leaf tir-sues with rheir mycelium, rupture the cells, and put a stop to the development of the leaf. The bnj« n spots really indicate the fiuigus in its full stage of development; they are the fruit of the fungus. Remedies. — As to remedies, it is obviously useless to apply them when the kanes are covered \^ith the brown spots, as the mischief has then been wrought. All that can be done then is to prom])tly pick off and burn every infected leaf. Directly afterwards spray the foliage with a solution of sulphide of potassium at the rate of an ounce to two-and-a-half gallons of tepid water. The liquid should be applied to the under and upper sides of the foliage, and allowed also to fall on the soil in the pots and on the ground, to make sure of destroying fallen spores. This may prevent the fungus spreading. To guard against an attack, the plants should be regularly sprayed every ten days throughout the season. If tins plan be adopted, and all infected leaves, or very badly attacked plants, be promptly burnt, the much-dreaded Leaf Rust may be kept at bay. Great care should also be taken not to pi'opagate from infected plants. Leaf-Spot. — Occasionally the leaves of the chrysan- themum are infected by dark brown spots, which seriously disfigure and weaken the growth of the plants. This par- ticular disease is caused by a fungus called Septoria chrysanthemi. But little is known of its life history at present. Other species of the genus, however, inflict simi- lar injury upon the currant, parsley, and tomato. Remedies. — One thing is certain, it is wise, wherever leaves are found with dai'k brown spots on them, to at PESTS AND DISEASES. 147 once remove and bum tliem, aftei-wards spraying the foliage thorouglily with tlie potassium solution advised in preceding paragraph, as a preventive against a second attack. Mildew. — A form of mildew peculiar to the chrysan- themum, and scientifically known as Oidium chrysan- themi, also does much damage to the foliage in some seasons. This mildew spreads over the leaves and also the petals of the blooms, sending its slender tubes into the cells, and speedily disorganising the functions of the plant. It is easily recognised by the greyish-white film of growth spread over the surface of the leaf. Plants that are much crowded and do not get sufficient light and air, are specially liable to an attack. Ebmbdibs. — Spraying with the sulphide solution advised for Leaf Bust will destroy the mildew, and also prevent it again infecting the foliage. Dustings with tiowers of sul- phur will also prove effectual. Extremes of temperature, when the plants are housed, should also be avoided. Millepedes — These small, active little animals, com- monly known as Thousand Feet, are sometimes a source of trouble to growers of pot plants. Although their natural food is supposed to be decaying m.atter, they are known to attack the roots of plants grown in pots and outdoors, and thus in a measure cripple root action. There are at least three kinds that are hurtful — namely, Julus guttatus, an inch long, very slender, with an ochreous- coloured body, spotted with crimson; Julus terrestris, which is about an inch long, leaden or pitchy in colour, and more or less cylindrical in shape ; and Polydesmus complanatus, a flat kind with a lilac-tinted body. All are furnished with a large number of legs. The Spotted Millepede (J. guttatus) may l)e found in clusters near roots that have started to decay. The millepedes are active creatures and curl up when disturbed. Remedies. — For outdoor plants well lime the soil before planting. If they infest pot plants to any serious extent H>s CHRYSANTHEMUMS. immerse the pots in water for an hour and so drown the pests. Sclerotinia Disease — This fungoid disease, scien- tifically called Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, attacks a number of plants, including the chrysanthemum. It first appears in the form of a white mould on the stem, just above the soil. As the fungus develops it penetrates the stem, causing it to become brittle and to split, when the interior will be found more or less full of black sclerotia. Ebmedies. — Fortunately it is not a very common enemy of the chrysanthemum, but whenever a plant is found to be attacked it should at once be cremated. Shoidd the wdiite mould stage of the fungus be found on the stem, dust freely with slaked lime. Slugrs and Snails — Both are partial to the young shoots of the chrysautheruum, and consequently must be reckoned with, especiallj- in regard to plants just planted out in beds or borders. They either eat oft the young shoots entirely or half \A'ay through. They often find their way into greenhouses and cold frames, and browse on the cuttings. Eemedies. — Trapping is the best remedy. Lay some lettuce or cabbage leaves, or heaps of brewers' grains or bran about the house or frame, and surround the stem of each plant in the open with a cordon of soot or lime. Spring-tails — These are lively little insects, which have been noted of late years as frequently infesting the roots of pot plants, including chrysanthemums. When present in large numbers, they undoubtedly do a great deal of harm to the roots of plants. The commonest kind is known as Podura terrestris. It varies in length from l-30th to ?,in., is of a whitish colour, and more or less hairy. When disturbed, it jumps or runs away with alacrity. This species frequents damp and sour soils mainly. Other kinds of springtails which are equally harmful are Acho- rutes piu'purescens, a bi'ownish insect of similar size to the PESTS AND DISEASES. 149 preceding- one, and Lijiura ambulans, a milky- white kind. They are easily recognised by their habit of jumping or springing when disturbed. Eembdibs. — Immersing the pot and roots in lime water, as advised for worms; watering the soil with a solution of nitrate of soda, at the rate of an ounce per gallon, or with a weak solution of permanganate of potash and water, will destroy these creatures. Thrjps. — Tlier^, are few insects more destructive than these. The one which attacks the chrysanthemum and other greenhouse plants is T. adonidum, a dark brown four- winged insect, with a reddish tipped body, pale yellow eyes and limbs, and measuring l-20in. in length. It is wonderfully agile in its habits, jumping away directly the leaf it is on is touched. The larvas, small, whitish or yellowish maggots, are also fairly active, but they cannot jump. Both feed on the surfaces of the leaves and shoots, sucking out the juices and causing them to assume a yellowish tinge and die. Not only do they injure the leaves, but also the young shoots and flowers. They are especiallj' destructive to the young and tender foliage of orchids and vines. As a rule, thej' never get very numer- ous in greenhouses that have a fairly moist atmosphere. Remedies. — Sponging the foliage, or syringing or spray- ing with a solution of one of the advertised insecticides, are the usual remedies. Fumigation with tobacco on three successive evenings generally proves euccessful. Wirevtforms. — Although these rarely do any serious harm to the chrysanthemum, still, in case they should, it will be as well to give a descrijDtion of them in order that they may be distinguished from millepedes. The wire- worm is the larva of a greyish-brown beetle known as the Skip Jack or Click Beetle (Agriotes obscurus). The beetles deposit their eggs on the herbage or roots of plants, and these in due counse hatch into slightly flattened cylindrical grubs of a yellowish hue. Each of these grubs is furnished with three pairs of short lege, situate just 150 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. behind the head, with a sueker-hke foot below the taib Tlieir bdiliew are exceedingly tough and wire-like, hence their name; in fact, so rigid that thej' may be readily snapped tlnxnigh tlie middle. The tii'st step uf the lar\a is to eat its way into the heart or stem of a plant, and woi'k ii])\\'ai'(ls until it ri'aches the surface. It then quits Ibis ])lant for anotbei', bcgiiming at the I'oots as before. Wireworms are voi-acious feeders, and therefore will attack a large numbci- of jilants in one season. Idiis, talcen into consideration witii tiie fact that they live from three to five years in the larval state before turning into the perfect beetle, will afford some idea of the injury likely to be done by a single gi'ub if allowed to attain its full development. PiEMEUiES. — To guard against the presence of these grubs in pots, the compost should be carefully searched over before using. Old decayed turf is specially liable to con- tain wireworms, hence in pulling this to pieces, keep a sharp look out for wireworms. With rcgartl to outdoor plants, it is only during the first month they are placed in the ground that wireworms are likely to be trouble- some. If any plant be found drooping, lift and examine the base of the stem, and the cidprit will generally be discovered. Burjdng pieces of carrot in the soil will attract wireworms, and enable them to be easily caught. Dressing the soil before planting with Kilogrub or Vapo- rite will thoroughljr rid it of soil pests. Wood I ice. — Several kinds of Woodlice or Slaters are partial to the buds of the chrysanthemum. The Common Woodlouse (Armadilla vulgaris) is the chief kind. This is of a leaden hue, and rolls itself up when disturbed. An- other kind, Oniscus asellus, is greyish-brown, with yellow- coloured spots on its sides and back. Yet another, I'or- cellio scaber, is of a slaty colour, with a rough dotted back. Being nocturnal feeders, they are not often seen at their mischievous occupation, and their handiwork is often attri- buted to other pests. louring the day they hide under dry rubbish or in crevices. It is evident, therefore, that all PESTS AND DISEASES. 151 rubbish should be removed from the neighbourhood of the phiuts, and that any crevices hkely to form a harbour for them should occasionally he treated with boiling water. PiBMBDiES. — Traps in the form of dirty flower pots filled with hay or moss, or with their insides smeared with treacle, should be laid about to entice the woodlice to enter. Examine these daily, and kill all found therein. Potatoes, swedes, or turnips cut in halves, and their insides scooped out, also form excellent traps. Beetle poisons placed near their haunts will be equally effective. Worms. — These unquestionably do a large amount of mischief if allowed to remain long iu the soil of a pot plant. They not only damage the roots, but render the soil spongy, stagnant, and sour, and speedily bring the plant into ill-health. IIbmbdibs. — Put a lump of unslaked lime the size of your fist in pail of water. Allow the solution to stand twenty- four hours, then skim off any film on the surface and t[uietly stand the pot infested with worms in the pail. In a few seconds the worms will come to the surface and may be caught. Watering the soil with a solution of car- bonate of ammonia, half a teaspoonful to a gallon of water, will effect the same object. Plants in pots should never be stood on the bare soil, but on tiles, slates, boards, or cinder ashes, otherwise worms will readily gain ingress to the roots. ^)22^ l.-,2 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. CHAPTER VII. A FEW FRIENDS. Si^'CE we liave ilesci'Jbed the enemies of the chryean- tlieuium, it is only just that we should also draw the grower's attention to a few of the friendly insects and animals that may occasionally, if not frequently, be seen on the plants or in the garden, in order that they may be spared to help him in reducing the number of the former. It would be wrong to treat every living creature found on plants or in the garden as a foe. One must learn to discriminate between the two, so as to spare those who render the gardener a lasting service in reducing the pests that conspire to do so much injury to his plants. Centipedes — First of all, there are the centipedes. The most familiar of these is Lithobius forcipatus, an active, agile little creature, with a shining, horny, ochre- ous-coloured body, and fifteen pairs of bristly, spiny legs and a couple of longish horns. It measures about an inch in length, and is furnished with very powerful jaws. This creature may frequently be met with in the drainage of pots and in the garden. As often as not it is regarded fss a foe and killed forthwith. Now, the centipede does no harm to plants; it feeds entirely on grubs, worms, and small animals, and is therefore a real friend of the garden. It is easily distinguished from the millepedes by its shorter body, longer legs, and its greater activity. Spare him. Another creature, often seen in company with the Centipede is Geophilus longicornis. This measures 2.1 ti") .3in. in length, has a very slender, ochreous-coloured bofly, furnished with fifty-one to fifty-five pairs of legs. A FEW FRIENDS. 153 The animal moves with a waving motion fiom right to left, and leaves behind a thin line of phosphoric fluid which can be clearly seen in the dark. This creature is one of Nature's scavengers, feeding on decayed roots and seeds, and never at any time does any harm to plants. We have often met with it in the soil and drainage of pot plants. Spare him likewise. The Centipede (Magnified). Frogrs and Toads — These should be encouraged in every garden, as they are really valuable allies. Both feed on slugs, beetles, and grubs, and will devour an immense number of these pests if unmolested. The Common Frog is scientifically known as Eana temporaria, and the Toad as Bubo vulgaris. Garden Spider (Epeira diademata),— This spider spins large webs over bushes, etc., and is particularly abundant during September. By means of its web it traps small moths and flies, and devours them at leisure. It should not be destroyed, but left unmolested. Hawk Flies (Scasva). — Three species of Hawk flies, namely, Scseva balteata, S. Pyrastri, and S. Eibesi, are friends of the gardener. The insects are of a wasp-like nature, though they are not capable of stinging. They are iri4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. excet'dini^ly activu, and may he seen dartJny alxnit here and there in the snnshine ■\\ith greai ahierity. These in- seets are also ealled "Htn'erers," on account of their hovering o^er the plants. The tlies lay (heir eggs among colonies of aphides, and \A-hen the. larva' appear, these at once begin to feast upon the aphides. The larva' are so voracions that thcA' will literalh' destrov hundreds of HiA'ERixii Flies ,\nu L.ikv.e. aphides in the space of an hour. The larva' are whitish or vellowish-gTeen in coloiu', narrow at the head, and gradu- all^' ^1■ideuiug at the tail. As soon as they are fully fed they attach themselves t(j a leaf, enter into the pupal stage, and finally emerge as pjerfect fhes in a very few days. Ichneumon Fly (Pimpla instigator). — There are seve- ral hinds iif Ichneumon flies, but all are alike in their A FEW FRIENDS. ].55 general liabite. They vary in size from an inch long to that of a midge. All have more or less slender bodies furnished with an ovipositor similar to the sting in the wasp. These insects alight on the bodies of cater- pillars, pieree them wUh their ovii)csitor, and then deposit an egg, which, in due course, hatches, and pi-i> duces a grub that feeds on the body of its host. These insects, therefore, do good in preying upon caterpillars which infest plants generally in the garden. It may be taken as a general rule that all insects which are seen hovering over plants are either Ichneumon flies or Hawk flies, and friends of the gardener worth taking care of. \ v / i^^''^' f ^*^^ % ^ # k- in September; col(jur on early buds, (leei) >"ellnw, shaded oranK'c, rich bronze later in the season; nice dwarf habit; lu-i,t;ht, 2 feet. AoAJAN.- -A strong s-mwdij;- \-ariety ; cofour, reddinli mah'ij^any ; m flower fate October; freight, 3 feet. ACHIEVEJIENT. — Free-flowering- plant, good habit ; colour, rosy anraranth, tipped \yhite ; a Scptember-ffowcring kind ; height, 3 feet. Acquisition. — \'ery free and pretty; colour, crimson red, shaded plum; flowering in October; height, 3 feet. Ada. — Pretty salmon-pink flower, with gMld tip^ to Ihe ffurets ; September; height, 3 feet. AdOM-S. — Chaste white \'ariet>', not unlike .Mychett White ; September; height about iS inches. AdOXI.s (Nonin). — bright satiny-rose blossom; beautifuf in late October ; height, 3 feet. Adrian Pasquier. — Useful pink flower, of a bright shade of this colour; in bloom in October; height, 4 feet. Agnes. — Charming ])lant, bearings free display of salmon- bronze flowers; Se])tember ; height, 2\ feet. A. J. JSar'ILE.- Pre(t\- ro-.\--mau\-e flowers; a usefuf jilant bir pot culture; late f)rrEREr-R de Russie.— Another October bloomer ;' colour, deep copper\-red ; height, 3I feet. E,^^PER0R XiniOLAS.— For late October displays, this is a useful sort; colour, deep crimson; height, 4 feet. LIST OF VARIETIES. 165 ENCHANTltESS. — This is a promising variety for September flowering; colour, bronze, shaded salmon, large flower; habit, good ; height, 4 teet. Ernest Matthieo. — A pretty salmon-cense flower, seen in good form in September ; height, 2i feet. ESPEKANCE. — This is a creamy-wliite flower, with rather weak flower-stalk ; good in clusters ; September ; height 2j feet. Ethel. — This is a welcome primrose sport from Kabbie Burns ; same habit, etc. Ethel J3lades. — One of the best border kinds; colour, brightest chestnut ; flowers are of beautiful form and freely deve- loped ; late September ; height, 3 feet. Etoile Blanche. — A very pretty, free-flowering white variety with starry blossoms ; in liower during October ; habit, good ; useful for cutting ; height, 3 feet. Etoile D'Or. — For late October flowering this is a good plant ; colour, brilliant golden yellow ; good habit ; excellent when disbudded ; height, 3 feet. Eugene Farez, — An old and one-time valued sort for Septem- ber and October displays ; colour, crimson-red ; height, 3 feet. Eva Williams. — This is a pretty pale bronze sport from the IJopula.r i\idlle. Guindudeau ; free-flowering and branching ; September ; height, 2i feet. Evelyn. — A September-flott'eriug, crimson-bronze variety, with gold points ; height, 31V feet. Fee Japonaise.— a September-flowering plant, with beautiful creamy-white blooms, looks well when disbudded ; long, curling, and drooping- petals ; height, 2', feet. Fee Orientale. — Beautiful creamy-white flow-er, shaded rose; good when disbudded ; late September ; height, 3 feet. Fee Paiusienne. — A splendid addition to the series ; large flowers, with drooping florets ; colour, deep mauve, with silvery reverse ; free flowering ; August and September ; height 2i feet. Fiancee. — Large pure white flowers, with straight florets ; late October; height, 4 feet. FiredragON. — Glorious rich crimson flower of good form, with golden reverse to petals ; grand plant for October dis- plays ; good habit ; height, 35 feet. Firefly. — Another good October variety, having crimson- scarlet blossoms, tinted gold ; height, 3 feet ; very effective. Firelight. — As the name implies, this is a crimson-red flower, with golden reverse ; splendid branching habit ; September- October ; height, about 3 feet. Flambeau. — A strong-growing plant that comes into flower in October; colour, salmon, shaded fiery red; excellent for cutting ; height, 4 feet. ItiB CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Flame.— Wondiously frce-tiowcringr plant ; flowering m Sep- tember and October; colour, crimson, with golden centre and buff reverse ; late flowers are the better; height, 3 teet. t'LfluvE Rot'GE.— This is a very striking and interesting flower of good form; colour, lovely reddish-salmon; October bldiimer ; height, 3 feet. Kl.oco.xs df: Xklge. — A chaste pure white kind ; free flowering ; September and Octol^er ; height, 2 feet. Kr.-\\(. IS. — A rather large flower, of a Ijronzy-red colour, some- what dl^pnsed tn show the "eye" when fully expanded; splendid haljit ; August and Septenilx-r ; height, 2 feet. Francois ^TIILLERMET. — An excellent border plant, with a capital branching habit, and free flowering; colour, lilac pink ; September, height, 2.1 feet. 1-RA.\KIE.- This is a plant with a bushv habit; colour, .golden (ichre, shaded Ijronze ; August; height, 2 fei't. Fred Goachei-i. — Extremely free-flo\\ering ; good also for dis- Ijudding ; colour, white, faintly shaded blush; stift', erect tlower-stalks ; September; height, 2 feet. Freedom. — A very fine variety, having large and handsome flowers in clusters ; should be slightly disbudded ; colour, soft rosv purple; October; height, 3 feet. tlASl'ARD B'oi'CHARLAT. — An old and one-time valued rich orange-coloured flower; useful for October blooming; height, 4 feet. ("lAT'lOX. — Far.ne, flat flower, of a deei) blush rose colour, on white grouncl ; capital habit; late September and October; height, 2', feet. General FIawkes. — A variety having large flowers of a rich purple colour ; silvery reverse ; free flowering ; blossoms in Octoljer ; good when disbudded ; height, 3} feet. Gkorce BOWXKSS.--A prett\- crushed ^trawberrv sport from Crimson .Marie Masse; in other re^pects similar tn the pal ent plant. George Wermig. — This is a sulphur yellow sport from J\fdmc. C. Desgrange ; September; height, 2} feet. Gkr tiE. — A very dwarf plant with a poor habit of growth ; charming blossoms of a salmon-pink colour, shaded gold ; useful when naturally grown or disbudded ; flowers from late August till early October; height, iR inches. Geriride TloiiiiS. — For late September and October flower- in.t;-, this is a useful plant : colour, deep crimson, shaded damask; form, excellent; height, 2.V feet. Glacier. — A plant that develops large, pure white flowers, also makes a free display ; good for garden or pot culture ; October; height, 4 feet. Gr.Anvs Irene HarkxesS. — Synonymous with Mons. Leveque Pere. Gloire de Mezin. — Another large, free-flowering variety, that should be partially disbudded; October bloomer; colour, rich chestnut-red ; height, 4 feet. LIST OF VARIETIES. 167 GOACHER's Crimson. — One of the very finest early sorts ; large flowers of a rich crimson colour ; of easy culture ; good habit and capital constitution ; in flower throughout Sep- tember and October ; height, 2^ feet. 'GOACHER'S Pink. — In this variety we have a pink flower of promise; September; height, 2 feet. Godfrey's Pet. — A pure yellow variety, flowering in Septem- ber and October ; height, 3 feet. Golden Queen of the Earlies. — Sport from (}ucen of the Earlies ; colour, yellow ; October bloomer ; should be dis- budded ; large flowers ; height, 3J feet. Grace Attick. — A quaint and curious spidery flower of a pure white, dwarf, bushy habit ; interesting only for its form ; September ; height, 2 feet. Guinea Gold. — This is a profuse flowering, goklen-yellow variety; August-September; height, 3 feet. Harmony. — This is a pretty plant when disbudded ; the flowers are of a rich apricot colour, shaded carmine rose ; Septem- ber and October; height, 2^ feet. Harold Oliver. — A pretty little pink sort, for September flowering; height, 18 inches. Harrie. — Avery excellent bronzy-orange, on gold ground; nice, full flowers ; September ; height, 2 feet. Harry' Gover. — Striking flowers of a rich orange colour, shaded salmon, with golden reverse ; flowers in early October ; height, about 4 to 5 feet. Harvest Home. — Still one of the brightest crimson flowers, tipped golden-yellow, with golden reverse ; free flowering ; September ; height, 3 feet. Hector. — Large, full flowers of good form arc developed, with- out disbudding, on plants of this variety ; colour, mauve- pink ; September; height, 3 feet. Henri Yvon. — Sport from Mons. G. Gruncrwald ; colour, soft rosy-salmon on a yellow ground ; blossoms from late August till early October; height, about 18 inches; large flowers of beautiful form. Hermine. — A splendid pure white kind ; useful alike for market or for border culture; late September; height, 3 feet. Hetty'. — Distinctly pretty, delicate ro5y-mau\'c coloured flower ; September ; height, 2 feet. Hilda Blick. — A plant with a good, sturdy habit of growth, and free-flowering ; colour, bright rosy-red ; October ; height, 4 feet. Holmes' Whi'TE. — A pure white free-flowering variety; August; fine for cutting ; height, 2 feet. Horace Martin. — Beautiful bright yellow sport from Crimson Marie Masse ; profuse bloomer ; magnificent branching habit and constitution of the very best ; in flower from early September till October ; height, 2J feet. 1 iw CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Howard H. Crane. — Exceeding-lj' free-flowering- variety, developing: pretty starry flowers in handsome sprays ; colour, bright chestnut, with golden reverse ; beautiful in October; bushy habit; height, about 4 feet. Ideal (Nonin). — A striking- fldwcr of an amber colour; flamed red ; a plant with a good habit ; partially disbud ; Sep- tember-October ; height, about 4 feet. Ideal. — Charming combination of ivory-white and clear lilac tints; late October; hei,i;"ht, 4 feet. ILLIr^IINATOR. — Sturdy growing plant, with a fine habit ; colour of flowers, bright yellow, flamed red ; an effective variety ; October; hci.ght, 3 feet. IMl'RO^•ED Mas.sk. — A splendid acquisition ; large flowers of .q'ood form, on long footstalks ; colour, lovely rosy mauve ; free-flowering; branching habit; late September and October bloomer ; height, 2J feet. Incomparable. — An extremely free-flowering variety, with flowers of pure white; good for border culture; Septem- ber; height, 1 foot. Independence. — A white kind of only fair quality ; August ; height, 2 feet. Innocence.— A creamy-white sort, with large flowers, and good habit of growth ; September-October ; height, about 3-i- feet. Irene Hunt.— Pleasing variety, with chestnut and gold flowers in clusters ; should be partially disbudded ; late September ; height, about 3 feet. I.sadel Willlams.— A late October variety ; colour, white, tinted rose reverse ; height, 2^ feet. Ivv Stark, — A pretty little plant of a bushy character; flowers, small ; colour, orange-yellow ; September to October ; height, 2i feet. J.\CK.--I'retty flowers of a reddish terra-cotta colour, borne quite freely on plants with a .good habit ; September ; height, 2^- feet. James Bateman.— Very free and effective flower, and one of the best sorts in cultivation; heavily-shaded pink on white .ground ; a September bloomer ; height, 2 feet, J.\NE. — This variety produces a mass of rather small but effective flowers of a canary-yellow colour; October; height, 2I feet. .Taxie Brown. — Sturdy-growing plant, producing prettily shaped flowers of a very dark purple shade ; October ; height, 3i feet, Jason, — A pale yellow flow-er of good form, should be dis- budded; sturdv plant ; free flowering; October; height yi feet, J, B.annister.— Lovely sport from Pcrle Chatillonaise ; colour, lemon-yellow ; overlaid reddish-copper ; beautiful in dis- budded form ; certificated by the N.C.S., and similar to the parent in e\'ery other respect. LIST OF VARIETIES. 169 Jeanne Vuillermet. — Strong-growing plant, with only a fair habit ; colour, dull crimson ; requires to be well grown ; October ; heig-ht, 4! feet, Jennie. — A medium-sized flower of g-lobular form ; colour, orange ; September-October ; height, 2 feet. JiMMIE. — A grand variety, having large flowers of a rich purple-amaranth colour ; in flower, September and October ; free flowering ; height, 2 feet. J. J. Hart. — A very effective deep golden-yellow variety, tinged red ; September , height, 2 feet. Jules Fornier. — Colour, rich deep rose ; October bloomer ; height, 3J feet. Jules Mary. — ^A beautiful velvety crimson flower, that is in good form in October ; height, about 27^ feet. Julie. — Vigorous-growing plant ; pretty white flowers, shaded lilac ; late September ; height, 4 feet. Juliette. — Snow white aptly describes the flowers ; good habit; October; very promising-; hei.ght, 5 feet. Kathleen Thompson. — A beautiful chestnut-crimson sport from Caprice du Printemps ; splendid disbudded ; late October; height, 24 feet. Keith. — Free-flowering plant ; .good habit; colour, rose-pink on cream ground ; September ; height, 2 feet. King of the Earlies. — An October-flowering variety ; colour, dark crimson ; height, 4-5 feet. King of the Earlie.s (Godfrey). — For culture under glass this is a very chaste and beautiful white variety for October supplies of cut flowers ; height, 3^ feet. Kitty. — A very dwarf, free-flowering plant, that begins to flower in August, and continues till well into October ; the sprays of blossoms from late buds are a lovely shade of bright pink ; early flowers, however, are less pretty ; height, 18 inches ; good for pots. Kitty Crews. — A good October-flowering border kind, with flowers of Japanese incurved form ; colour, orange and fawn ; free flowering ; height, 2i feet. KUROKI. — This belongs to the bright-coloured sorts ; crimson- scarlet aptly describing the colour ; September-October ; height, 3 feet. Lackme. — Distinct and pretty pale rose flowers, tipped gold ; beautiful sprays ; October ; height, 3 feet. Lady FitzwyGRAM. — This is a useful free-flowering white kind, that should be partially disbudded, otherwise it is very weedy ; September ; bushy habit ; height, 2J feet. Lady Mary FIope. — Another free-flowering plant, with bushy habit ; colour, white, slightly shaded blush ; September ; height, 2-2- feet. Langford Duncan. — Rosy-cerise sport from Francois Vuiller- met ; September; height, 2-J- feet. La Gracieuse. — Fine flowers of a rose colour, shaded white ; late October ; height, 4 feet. 170 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. l.A Parisienne. — An exceedingly frcc-flowering;, crcaniy-whilc variety, beautiful in sprays ; in fine form in mid-Septem- ber ; good habit ; height, about 2 feet. l.ARt;EMUlLLAls. — This is a loveh- deep ehcstnut-coloured Hower ; late September; height, 2I feet. La Rosee.— a continental introduction, giving handsome flowers of a ros\'-\vhite colnur ; height, 4 feet. La Vestale.— a charming- little plant for early September dis|)la\-s; colour, peach pink; large flower; height, 3 feet. Lk C\"(.;ne.— Large pure white flowers, borne on long, stiff flower stalks; (Jctober ; height, 4 feet. Le Danube. — This is a September-flowering variety, with flowers of a deep plum colour ; very d\v'arf. Le (iAi'LOls. — \'er>' go(Kl flower; colour, Ijright fier\- red, golden re\'erse ; late (October; height, 3 feet. LemO-M Oueex. — Free-flowering plant, with a bushy habit ; colour, old gold; period of flowering, October; height, 3-4 feet. l.E.XA. — I'seful deep tcrra-cotta i-ariety, with gold iiuints ; best when disbudded ; good habit ; Septemljer ; height, 2 feet. Leonard Peio. — Another extremely free-flowering- plant, with a bushy habit, but lacking sturdiness ; colour, bright yellow ; Septenrbcr ; height, about 2-3- feet. Le Pactole. — This is a large-flowered sort, that should be disbudded ; good habit ; flowers are borne on long, stiff flower stalks ; colour, yellow shaded bronze ; September- October ; height, 4 feet. Leslie.- A real rich Ijuttercup-yellow \-ariety, retains its colour well ; free-fli)werin.g- and bushy; certificated b\' the N.C'.S. ; September; height, 2 feet. LliiERTV. — For late October displays this is useful creamy-white flower, tinted old rose ; height, 4 feet. LiLLlE. — In this case the flowers are fairly large and of good form ; colour, clear pearl pink ; good habit ; September- October ; heig^ht, 2 feet. Lizzie .Al'NfnL. — A salmon and hcliotroiJe sport from Mons. (iust Grunerwald; Juh-August ; height, 2 feet. Lord Beacon.SFIELD. — In this instance the plants come into flower in October, and their colour is a pretty salmon, crimson and gold ; height, 4 feet. I.ORRAI.xe.- An earh- October-flowering, deep crimson-purple kind ; lo\'cly colour; height, 3 feet. Louis Bet-i-zick. — A September-flowering bright pink sort ; height, 22 feet. Louis Lemaire.— Sport from Mons. flust. Grunerwald ; colour, rosy-bronze ; flowers continuously from August till Octo- ber ; large blooms; height, 2 feet. Mabel. — A pretty dw-arf plant, flowering in September ; colour, salmon pink, with golden-buff centre ; profuse bloomer rather weak habit ; height, 2i feet. ' LIST OF VARIETIES. l7l Mabel Adams. — A fine variety, with large full flowers, borne on stifl:', erect stems; colour, apricot; in flower during October ; heishtj 2 feet. Maiiel Roiierts. —Useful variety for cut flowers, having long sprays of erect character ; colour deep pink ; September ; height, 3 feet. Madame Andre Bceuf. — A late October-flowering rosy-purple variety, tin.ged lilac ; height, 3 feet. Madame Carmiaux.— This variety is a plant with a rather weak style of growth, bearing pretty flowers, white, tinted blush in September; height, 2 feet. Madame Casimir Perrier. — A most profuse bloomer in Sep- tember ; colour, creamy-white, freely tinted pink ; bushy and branching habit ; height, 2'/ feet. Madame C. Desgrange. — An old and well-known garden and market sort ; flowers of poor quality ; colour, white with yellowish centre ; habit, bushy and sturdy ; September ; height, 3 feet. Madame E. Bergman. — A useful, free-flowering October variety ; colour, pink ; height, 3 feet. Madame Eulalie iNIorel. — This is a fairly profuse bloomer, that should be partially disbudded ; colour, cerise, shaded with gold ; in flower during September ; height, 2 J- feet. Madame Gajac. — A free-flowering plant with a bushy habit ; colour, mauve-pink, small ; in flower during October ; height, about 3 feet. Madame Gastallier. — A creamy-white variety flowering in September ; bushy habit ; free flowering ; height, 2 feet. Madame Henri Jac'otot. — A rather shy bloomer with large flowers ; colour, purplish pink, suft'used white ; comes into flower late October ; height, 3 feet. Madame Henri Delizv. — Another October variety ; colour, white, tinged purple ; height, 3 feet. Madame Jacob. — A chestnut-crimson variety, flowering in October ; height, 2J feet. Madame Jules Mequet. — Distinctly compact and pretty blooms, of good form ; colour, bright orange ; good habit ; September bloomer; height, 27} feet. AJadame la Comtesse Foucher de Careil. — A wonderfully profuse-flowering variety ; colour, rich orange yellow ; small flowers ; in flower during October ; bushy and branching habit ; height, 2 feet. Madame Leon Collin. — Another good, late October-flowering variety ; colour, orange yellow ; height, 3 feet. I\Tadame Liger Ligneau. — A splendid clear yellow sort, should be disbudded ; useful late September and October ; height, 2 feet. Madame JVIarie Masse. — One of the best border varieties : bushy and branching habit ; in flower late August till October; colour, lilac-mauve; height, about 2^ feet. iTiJ CHRYSANTHEMUMS, Madame R. de Molil\in.— Lovely shade of lerra-cotta ; the plant comes into llovver m October ; height, 3 feet. Madame W. Hubert. — Splendid variety for late October dowering" ; colour, charming salmon-rii>c ; good habit ; height. 3 feet. -Mad.-uie Zephir Lionnet. — A late October-flowering- kind ; colour, deep orange-yellow ; curling petals ; height, 25 feet. Madeline Dunn. — A free-flowenng: \ ariety, with long- petals ; colour, deep rose ; m flower, September and October ; height, 2i feet. Madge Blick. — A splendid dark, rich amaranth flower ; plant has a compact haljit ; September and October ; height, 3-i feet. Magenta Dodo. — A small-flowered magenta kind ; profuse bloomer; bushy habit; October; height, 3i- feet. Maggie. — This is a plant with a bushy and branching: habit of g-rowth ; a profuse bloomer ; colour, pure yellow ; blooms in September and tjctober ; height, 2-i feet. Maggie Boyes. — A September-flowering- kind ; colour, rosy pink, with gold centre; height, 18 inches; some say this is a hybrid pompon. Maggie McLeod. — Distinct and interesting flower of an orange colour, flamed red in centre ; September ; height, 3i feet ; fairly g-ood habit. Maria. — Very free-flowering plant, with small, flat flowers of a rosy purple colour ; in flower during September ; height, 3^ feet. Marjorie Meakins. — Pretty and attractive branching plant, with flowers of a bright rose colour ; September ; height, 18 inches. Market Pink. — This is a dense and compact plant that must be disbudded; colour, deep rose-pink; October bloomer; height, 2j feet. Market White. — A chaste and beautiful pure white variety; free-flowering: and robust; late September and October; height, 2 feet. Market Yellow.— Pale yellow or primrose; sport from Market White, similar in every other respect to the parent variety. Marquise de Montmort.— An October-flowering variety, with blossoms of a delicate character ; colour, bright "mauve pink ; heig-ht, 4 feet. Martin.mas. — At one time this was classified as a pompon, but has since been removed from that section ; colour, pink, with silvery white reverse; October; height, 4 feet. Marvel, — Distinct flower of a rich plum colour, shaded red ; a glorious plant in October; height, about 3.V feet. Mary Sydenham. — Beautiful salmon-pink sport from Flam- beau ; September; height. 3 feet. Maxim. — Free-flowering plant with a good habit of growth ; colour, rich chestnut-red. shaded gold; height, i" feet. Mdlle. Fouise (Nonin). — A pure white Octolier-flowering variety ; height, 3 feet. LIST OF VARIETIES. 173 Mdlle. Lucie Duveau. — One of the finest October-flowermg whites ; free and sturdy grower ; useful in pots or border ; purest white with incurving florets ; height, 4^ feet. Mdlle. Renee Drouet. — Large white flower with ribbon-like petals; September; height, 2-!, feet. MeduSE. — To be seen at its best this October-flowering variety should be partially disbudded ; colour, pretty shade of old gold ; height, 3 feet. Merstham HRO-\ZE.--Very fine free-flowering orange-bronze va- riety ; September; height, 4 feet. Merstham Pink. — Pretty, free-flowering variety ; colour, pearl- pink ; September ; height, 2 feet. ■ MiGNON (Nonin). — A lovely border plant; colour, delicate rosy- mauve ; September ; height, 2 feet. Mildred. — Very pretty, rich canary-yellow flower, and a plant with a beautiful habit; October bloomer; no disbudding necessary; height, 2 feet. Minnie Carpenter. — Beautiful terra-cotta red; capital habit; September; height, 2w feet; Certificated by N.C.S. Miss Balfour jMelville. — Large flowers, of a rich, deep yellow colour; September; height, 2-;- feet. Miss Benyon. — Pretty little plant, though weak growing ; colour, lovely bright flesh-pink; September bloomer; height, 2 feet. Miss B. Miller. — An October-flowering kind, with large flowers ; colour, deep golden yellow ; height, 2 feet. Miss Dove Elliot. — Useful plant with a good habit ; colour, pure yellow ; in flower during October ; height, 2 feet. Miss E. Crinage. — A good incurved-Japanese flower; colour, Indian-red; in bloom late October; height, 3 feet. Miss E. Jenner. — An October-flowering rose-pink variety ; height, 3 feet. Miss K. Rogers. — Striking variety with flowers of good shape ; colour, crimson-scarlet; September-October; height, about one foot. Miss Martin. — A September-flowering variety ; colour, white tinted pink ; height, 24 feet. Miss Ruth Williams. — A deep yellow flower for Septembei displays ; height. 3 feet. Miss Watson. — Distinctly pretty primrose-yellow variety, beautiful in sprays ; in flower in October ; height, 2 feet. Mrs. A. COOKSON. — Free-flowering plant with good habit ; colour, clear rose with silvery reverse: October bloomer: height, about 4 feet. Mrs. a. J. Parker. — Large flowers ; colour, salmon-pink : rather loose, straggling habit ; October bloomer ; should be disbudded ; height, 4 feet. Mrs. a. Willis. — Sport from Mdme. Casimir Perrier ; colour, yellow, shaded and striped red ; September bloomer ; height, 2i feet ; very profuse. 174 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Mrs. B.A.ILEV.— L'M-fuI cruam\ -white .sport fium Mdnic. INIarie -Masse; very similar to \\ells' Masse. INIrs. B..\IRD. — A sport from Madame Mane Masse; colour, bright pink at base of petals, shading- to salmon or white ; September ; height, 3 feet. Mrs. Burrell. — I'rimrose-yellow ; sport from Mdme. C. Des- grange ; pleasing- colour; sturdy grower; September; height, ^ feet. Mrs. E. J. Castle. — A pretty bronze flnwer, for October dis- plays ; height, 4 feet. Mrs. tJEORGE Hill, — A lovely primrose-coloured variety; l)eau- tiful either in sprays or disbudded; October bloomer; height, 3 feet. Mrs. Gifforu. — \'ery pretty i^ale pink variety; October; height, 2i feet. Mrs. H.awkins. — Deep rich yellow ; sport of the Mdme. C. Desgrange family; sturdy grower; September bloomer; height, about 3 feet. Mrs. Hicks Arnold. — An old and highh- esteemed A-ariety ; colour, blush; useful m sprays or disbudded; October; height, about 3^ feet. Mrs. li. i.YON. — This is a pretty soft clear rose-coloured variety; comes into flower in October; height, about 3 feet ; beautiful in sprays. Mrs. J. R. Pitcher. — An old and one time highly \'a]ued sort ; pretty, though lacking quality ; colour, pearly white, tinted blush ; August-September ; height, il feet. .Mrs. A. Thomson.- Deepest golden-yellow, small flowers, bushy habit; Septen-|bcr; height, 2.j feet. Mrs. Lonsdale. — A useful plant for October flowering; colour, old gold; height, about 3} feet. Mrs. L. Seymour. — A'ery promising- plant, with a good dwarf habit; colour, soft \-ellnw ; in Hower during Sci)tembcr ; height. 2 feet. Mrs. p. Cragg. — A plant of which little is known; colour, amber ; October ; height, 4 feet. Mrs. R, Mollinson, — Sport from Abms. Gust. Grunerwald ; colour, bright bronzy-yellow ; larg^e flowers (>( good form ; height, 2 feet ; August till October. -Mrs. Shkrr.\'I"|-.- E-xtremeh- frce-flowcriug. orange terra-cotta flower; Jul\- and August; height, 2 feet. Mrs. Squire. — Dainty pure white flower of pleasing- form ; bushy and branching- habit ; September bloomer ; height, about 2 feet. Mrs. Tom Whiie. — Pjeautiful plants bearing- flowers of good form ; colour, bright crimson-red ; October bloomer ; height, 2 feet. Mrs. ^'erO Shaw. — Flower of unique form ; colour, creamy white in centre, tipped blush at points of petals; October; height, 3 feel. LIST OF VARIETIES. 175 Mrs. W. a. Hobbs. — A really excellent variety, free flowering and bushy ; colour, rose, shaded carmine, tipped gold ; late September and October ; height, 2-| feet, Mrs. \Y. SvUENH.'kM. — One of the deepest crimson flowers of striking api)earance ; September ; height, 2 feet. Mrs. Wingfield. — Another late October variety ; colour, soft blush pink ; good, dwarf habit ; sturdy ; height, 2 feet. Mr. J. Harding. — A useful crimson flower, shaded claret ; September to October ; height, about 2-i feet. IMONS. Albert Galy. — A September-flowering kind; colour, reddish terra-cotta ; height, 2-k feet. MONS. BACKM.'iNN. — At one time valued for its light buff and salmon colour ; of pleasing habit ; October ; height, about 3 feet. MoNS. DUPUIS. — Useful little plant, with a good habit ; colour, orange-yellow ; pretty in sprays ; a September-flowering variety; height, about 3^- feet. MONS. Emile Rosette. — A rich crimson-maroon flower ; in good form during October ; height, 3 feet. MONS. E. P. VAN Geert. — Pretty flowers of a golden yellow colour, striped red ; should be partially disbudded ; Octo- ber ; height, about 35 feet. MoNS. G. DUBOR. — A fine orange-yellow variety, striped bronze; in flower during October; height, about 34 feet. MONS. George Menier. — Large flower of good form ; should be disbudded; colour, rich velvety amaranth; September- October ; height, 4 feet. Mons. GuSTAVE Grunerwald. — Charming little plant, hav- ing large flowers; colour, white, shaded pink; persistent bloomer from August onwards ; height, about 2 feet. MONS. Henri Devred. — A fair flower ; colour, bronze ; Sep- tember ; height. 3 feet. MONS. J. Bte. Ch.^UVIN. — Plant of large proportions ; very strong grower ; large blooms of a crimson colour, with gold centre ; October ; height, 3 feet. MONS. Leveque, fils. — A late-October kind ; colour, crimson, with golden reverse ; height, about 2} feet. MONS. Louis Lionnet. — A charming salmon pink variety, flowering in September and October; height, 2i feet. MONS. Marcel Mestivier. — This may be described as an October-flowering Horace Martin; height, 23- feet. MoNS. INIaxime DE la Rocheterie. — A useful October- flowering terra-cotta variety; height, 4 feet. Montague. — An October-flowering purple-crimson sort ; height, about 3J feet. 'MurillO. — A large-flowering variety ; colour, flesh-pink ; should be disbudded; in flower during October; height, 3 feet. lIl'RlLLO (Nonin). — Pretty deep yellow flower; dwarf habit; October ; height, 2 feet. 17U CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Mychett Beautv. — Large dowers of a golden-) uUow colour; October ; should be disbudded ; height, 3 feet. MvCHJilT Glorv.— A bronzy-yellow, tinted salmon variety; better when disbudded ; September to October ; height, 2 feet. Mychett Pink. — Flowers of a pretty shade of pmk, flushed salmon; August to September; height, 18 inches. Mychett White. — The most chaste of all white kinds ; blooms of beautiful form ; free-flowering ; not over robust ; Sep- tember ; height, 2 feet, Nellie. — Large, flat flower, borne on stiff flower-stalk ; good when disbudded ; colour, lemon-yellow ; in flower, Septem- ber, height, 2 feet. Nellie Blake. — An October-flowering- crimson variety, with reflexed flowers ; height, 2i feet. Nellie Brown. — This is a reddish-orange, sport from Rye- croft Glory ; good, bushy habit ; sturdy g^rower ; October ; height, about 3 feet. Nellie Helmslev." — \'ery fine, clear, soft pink \ariety ; Sep- tember ; height, 2i feet. Nettie. — A September bloomer ; colour, reddish-bronze, shaded gold ; height, 2 feet. Nina Blick. — A very fine border variety, with a bushy and sturdy habit of growth ; a persistent bloomer from late August onwards ; colour, bright reddish bronze ; distinct and choice ; height, 3 feet. Nina Willi.-UIS. — In this instance the flowers are a bright fiery crimson; blooms in October; height, 4 feet. Norbet Puvrez. — One of the very best of the earlies for the border ; ideal branching and dwarf habit ; colour, rich golden bronze, tinted salmon; profuse bloomer; in flower August and September; height, 18 inches. Normandie. — Very charming- flower, of good form; free-flower- ing and robust ; colour, delicate pink ; certificated by the N.C.S. ; September; hei.uht, 2; feet. Notaire Groz. — A wonderfully free-flowering plant ; develop- ing elegant sprays of blossoms ; colour, silvery mauve- pink ; very bushy ; height, 4 feet ; October bloomer. October Gold. — Flouer of good form, borne on long stem; colour, old gold ; vigorous grower ; certificated by the N.C.S. ; October; height, ^ feet. October King.— A reddish-apricot. October-flowering variety ; height, 3 feet. October Yellow.— As the name implies this is a yellow October sort ; height, 2 feet. Odette. — A beautiful deep rosv-mauve flower; September; height, 3 feet. O. J. QuiNTUS. — An old and popular rosv-pink sort; profuse bloomer; good habit; October; height, 3 feet. Onward. — This is a free-flowering varietv ; colour, bright red tipped gold; height, 3 feet; October. LIST OF VARIETIES. 177 Orange. — Large flower on erect footstalks ; colour, charming shade of orange terra-cotta ; September bloomer ; height, 24 feet. Orange Child. — Free-flowering variety ; colour, deep yellow ; pays for partial disbudding ; September and October ; height, 3 feet. Orange Masse. — A beautiful rosy orange variety, should be disbudded; free-flowering; October; height, 3 feet. Orange Queen. — Very good buff-orange, self-coloured variety ; October ; height, 2 feet. Owen's Perpetual. — A white, slightly tinted pink flower ; plant possesses a weak and straggling habit ; August- September ; 2 feet. Parisiana. — Unusually large, spotless white flower, of good form when disbudded; the blooms are handsome; August till October ; height, 3 feet. Paul Valade. — A late October-flowering, chamois variety ; September ; 3 feet. Pearlie. — Very effective colour ; pearl-pink ; the plant develop- ing elegant sprays of dainty blossoms ; September bloomer ; height, 2 feet. Perfection. — A white-flowered kind, with a faint tint of blush when flrst opening ; September and October ; height, 2 feet. Perle ChatillONAISE. — A creamy-white sort, tmted blush ; September to October ; height, 4 feet. Perle Rose. — Beautiful variety ; colour, rosy-mauve, shaded white ; should be partially disbudded ; September-October ; good habit ; height, 3 feet. Pink Aster. — Pretty flower of aster-like form ; colour, lilac- pink ; September; height, 18 inches. Pink Beauty. — Pretty bright pink variety, in way of Mdme. Marie Masse ; October ; height, 3 feet. Pink Bedder. — Beautiful, compact plant; profuse bloomer; colour, pink; September; height, 18 inches. Pink Gem. — Very pretty variety ; colour, pink, with yellow centre ; September ; height, 3 feet. Pink Selborne. — In this instance the plant has a good branch- ing habit ; colour, lilac-pink ; height, si feet ; October. PluIE D'OR.— A somewhat late October-flowering variety, forming dense clusters ; should be partially disbudded ; colour, bright yellow ; height, 3 feet. Polly. — One of the best for the garden or for pot culture ; large flowers, freely produced, on plants possessing a bushy and sturdy habit of growth ; colour, deep orange- yellow, shaded bronze ; September and October ; 2i feet. P. Rad^.LLI. — A creamy-yellow October kind ; height, 3I feet. PrecoCE d'Orleans. — An August-flowering plant, and very dwarf; colour, primrose; height, 2;j feet. 178 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. President Lefe\re.— Pretty blush-pink flower, with golden centre; September; heig"ht, 2!, feet. President iMichelli. — Colour, red and gold; October; height, 2i- feet. Pride of Haves. — A free-flowering plant with a bushy habit ; colour, soft rose; large flower of good form; October; height, 3 feet. Pride of KestOiX, — \'ery fine variety of good habit, free flower- ing ; colour, deep rose with silvery reverse ; October bloomer; height, 3.5 feet. Pride of IMvcheit! — Colour, pink, with gold centre ; Octo- ber ; height, 3i feet, Primevere, — Free-flowering variety ; dwarf habit ; colour, primroNe->elln\\- ; (Jctobcr ; height, :: feet. PrOFL'sion, — An ( )ctobcr-fl(i\\ eriiig \ariety ; colour, apricot; height, 3 feet. Pro\E.\c1'.. — Another very pretty variety; colour, bright pink, tipped gold ; capital habit ; certificated b\' the N.C.S. ; Sep- tember ; height, 2-i feet. PUISART COURTALLIER. — Colour, bronze, with yellow centre ; September; 3 feet. QliEEN of the Earlies. — A very fine large-flowered pure white ; in good form in late September and October ; should be disbudded ; height, 3 feet, Raume Burns, — Charming rosy cerise ; sport from Mdme. Marie Alasse ; branching liabit, free-flowering ; Septem- ber and early October ; height, 2I feet. Raiielais. — A good rosy-purple variety ; flowering in Septem- Ijcr ; height, 2.\ feet. Rali'H Curtis.— a creamy-white sport fr(mr Mdme. Marie Masse ; similar in other respects to the parent variety. Ravexsrourn'E. — Colour, deep rose, with silvery reverse ; this plant blossoms in clusters in October and is very fine ; height, 3i feet. Ravmond. — Colour, deep pink; October; height, about 4 feet. Red Selugrne.— a late October-flow enng cerise-red variety ; height, 3 feet. Rene Chandon de Brialles. — Colour, reddish-violet, striped white : September bloomer; height, 2I feet. Rev. a. H. WiucaiT. — Colour, crimson, shading to yellow ; (Jctobcr ; 3I feet. R. H. Holford. — This is a striking variety, with flowers of a rich crimson-bronze colour; CX'tober ; height, 4 feet. RoiiI.N'. — This is a good full flower for October displays ; colour, rose ; height, 2-; feet. I^oi! I-iON . — This is a flower of similar form to Polly; colour, ( hestnut-crimson, with gold reverse ; September to October ; height, 2 feet. Rocket. — A free-flowering Srptcni);cr and Orlob<-r \arietv ; colour, pretl\- reddisli-ljronze ; ]ju.,h\' habit; height, 3i feet. LIST OF VARIETIES. 179 Rtini? v' ^\^' amaranth ; height, 3 feet. ^^Ptember , lv;;;;^IH 7 J'^'i Purp e-amaranth flower, with lonn- petals • heSt ''.-&'^'''' '" *'°"'"' September and 'bSr ;' ''""kin'^TtSlt^^'^fe^^? ^^P''^"^'-^ -^' October-flowering UVECROFT Beaut'y.-A lovely blush-pmk variety free-flower '""-and robust: useful for hnrVlov .„i^ . .A ',-i '^ "'^'^'^ J^.-Hyt:^r^ --^-i-^o^ boi^rcjnu;e'i„ o«Z7; ^■r^.^reddish-cnmson flower, of pooi -One of the best-known semi-earlv sorts- quality; October; height "rfeet "''' °* P°°'^ '"■"^S:.9^?!^TT^. -^Wish-crimson flower, of wn tui „ ------ , ---V, w^iuijci uiooiuer .■-■"■", Hushed red; heicht " fppt SatIX Rosk. -a daint'v flnner <,f •, „r,.|(v- ,-,,-,= I , ^ October; height. 4 feet. " "^ ""' "'''-'^"' ' J-''^'' '™t;;b!^;Zii"-^Vf^:|""^' ^'"^^'^ -'-• -" -hue .round; -September Belle -A g-ood September varietv • flowers of pearly-white, tinted salmon-pink; height, 2 f^e"' X 2 J so CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Sei'TEMUER Gold.— Small fluwers of a bright yellow colour; October; heig-ht, 2 teet. Stella. — Large tiowcr; colour, pink, with cream centre, pass- ing to white, splendid habit; August; height, 2 feet. Sydney Peto.— A bright yellow September-flowering kmd ; a profuse bloomer ; height, 2 feet. Tangiers.— .^ beautiful September-flowering, reddish-orange \'arietv ; height, ^, feet. Tapis de "Neige. — "\'cry free, pure snow-white variety ; fine for cut flowers; September; height, 2 feet. Tapis d'Or.— Free-flowering, brilliant golden-yellow blossoms; must hi disbudded ; certificated by the N.C.S. ; September ; height, 2 feet. TERR.A-COTTA OuEEN. — A'ery fine terra-cotta variety ; October ; height, 4 feet. The Champion. — A deep clear yellow variety, on useful erect flower stems ; somewhat stiff form ; September ; height, 2 feet. The Dove. — A pretty peach-coloured flower for September uses; heightj iS inches. Thetis. — Pretty, incurving blossoms of a soft biscuit shade of terra-cotta ; August ; height, 2 feet. Tonkin. — Large flowers of a lovely reddish-orange colour ; dis- bud early; September; height, 2 feet. Tottie. — Free-flowering variety, seen to advantage when dis- budded ; colour, reddish-orange ; late flowers very rich in colour, not unlike Nina Blick ; August-September ; height, 2v feet. TOURAINE. — Another free-flowering variety, having solid-look- ing blossoms of a shell-pink colour; very charming when disbudded; late August and September; height, 2 feet. TuCKSWOOD Bronze. — Useful cut flower variety; colour, red- dish-bronze; October; height, 3 feet. TuCKSWOOn Early. — A well-known pure white variety, flower- ing- early September ; height, 2V feet. Venise. — Lovely flower of a golden-salmon colour, shaded old rose; September; height, 2} feet. VeSUVE. — A very excellent, strong-growing plant ; colour, chestnut-crimson, gold reverse ; sturdy, bushy habit ; Sep- tember ; height, 2i feet. Victor Mew. — Similar to Mdme. C. Desgrrange. Virginalis. — White, very profuse bloomer ; flowers, September to October ; height. ^ ferct. Vivian Prince. — A beautiful rich yellow sport from Ivy Stark ; in other respects similar to the parent plant. Warrior. — A useful late October-flowering variety ; colour, crimson-red ; height, 4 feet. \\'RI,LS' Masse. — Beautiful white, shaded blush ; sport from Mdme. ^Marie Masse. LIST OF VARIETIES, 181 Wells' Primrose. — Promising- flower with long florets, beauti- ful when disbudded ; colour, rich cream, with primrose centre; September; height, 2-'r feet. Wells' Scarlet — Grand border plant ; colour, scarlet terra- cotta, most effective in September ; very bright and attrac- tive ; height, 18 inches. White Masse.— A creamy-white sport from Mdme. Marie Masse; habit, etc., same as ihe parent \-ariety. White Pet. — Medium-sized white flowers are borne in pro- fusion all through September; height, 18 inches. White Point. — A distinct flower; colour, reddish-lilac, with white points to the florets, and golden centre; September; height, 2i feet. White OuintuS. — A white of the purest kind ; sport from O. J. Quintus ; verv useful for cutting and for pot culture; October ; height. 2^ feet. SELECTION OF JAPANESE GARDEN VARIETIES. The undermentioned varieties, under their respective head- ings, are recommended for their all round good quality for garden embellishment. CRIMSON AND CHESTNUT SHADES. *Goacher's Crimson. *Crimson Marie Masse. Vesuve. "Ethel Blades. *Howard H. Crane. Wells' Scarlet. YELLOW SHADES. 'Carrie. *Horace Martin. *Maggie. Clara. Tapis d'Or. October Gold. Jason. Leslie. ORANGE SHADES. *Polly. Diana. Harrie. *Orange. Tonkin. Border Beauty. BRONZE AND TERRA-COTTA SHADES, *Rosie. *Nina Blick. "Agnes. Jack. *lMrs. A. Willis. Merstham Bronze. WHITE. *Roi des Blancs. *Mychett White. Etoile Blanche. Caledonia. Tapis de Neige. ^Market White. Dons Peto. Savoie. 182 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. PINK SHADKS. *A[adamc Casimir Pcnicr. -James Batoman. *Madame Mane .Masse. Miss Benynn. Hr( tor. Provenrc. Normandu'. IMcrsthani Pink. ROSE. Pride uf Haves. *Pride ,,f Keston. "Pcrlc Rose. Breta,L;ne. Fi'e Parisienne. "Alinnon (Nlusll P.eaiilv. J.illie. Keith. Perlc Cliatillonaise. •Fee Crientale. Perfcrtinn. iiPHI'-.R COLOURS. ■'''Norljet Pu\'rez. C.:hatillon. Fee Japonais. ""Flernc Rouge. ■■■ALidame W. Hul)ert. '''Lii[)ro\'ed AKisse. J. Pannister. S|)itfire. Faaicst Daudct. Those marked with an asterisk will make a selection for small growers. LIST OF VARIETIES. 183 CHAPTEIl IT. EARLY FLOWERING POMPONS. COMPLETE LIST OF GARDEN VARIETIES. Alice Butcher.— Orange-red ; height, 25 feet; October; spnrt from Lyon ; one of the best. Anastasia. — Light purple ; height, i foot ; September and October ; dwarf and compact. Blanche Colomb. — Creamy white ; height, 2 feet ; September; very free ; fine habit. Blushing Bride.— Lilac and white ; height, 2 feet ; September ; large flower of good form. BrOx\ZE Bride. — Rosy-bronze and gold ; height, 2 feet ; Sep- tember ; sport from Blushing Bride. California. — Bright yellow; height, 2 feet; October; sport from Blanche Colomb. Canari. — Pale yellow; height, i foot; September and October; dwarf, bushy habit. Crimson Precocite. — Bright crimson ; height, 2 feet ; late October ; free and bushy. Diamond. — Flowers of charming form ; colour, rich red on yellow ground ; good habit ; height, 3 feet ; October. Dolly. — A refined and beautiful little flower with fimbriated petals; colour, pale yellow; October; height, 2 feet. Early Blush. — Soft rosy blush ; good full flowers ; July to August; heig'ht, 18 inches. Fiberta. — Bright canary yellow ; height, 2 feet ; September and October. Flora. — Golden yellow ; height, 2 feet ; August ; very bushy habit. Frederic Pele. — Crimson tipped gold ; height, 2 feet ; August. Gentilesse. — Tinted mauve on white ground ; height, 2 feet ; September. Gladys Gray. — Yellow sport from ^ladame Ed. Lcfort. Golden Beauty. — Golden ; height, 2 feet ; September , pretty plant ; flowers of perfect form. Golden Bronze Bride. — Very similar to parent, but distinctly more bronze; height, 2 feet; September. Golden Drop. — Synonymous with Yellow L'Ami Conderchet. Golden Fleece. — Bright lemon yellow ; height, 2 feet ; October 1S4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Golden Shower. — Biig-ht canary yellow ; September and October. HIGH-A.M. — Blush white; height, li feet; August. ILLUSTR.ATION. — Rosy blush ; height, 2 feet ; September. Jacinth.-^. — Pinkish lilac; height, ij feet; August. J. B. DuvoiR.— Pale pink; height, li feet; September; very beautiful form ; large. LAmi Coxderchet. — Creamy white ; height, li feet ; Septem- ber ; dwarf and compact. I,A Lu.XE.MBOURG. — Bronze, shaded yellow ; height, 2 feet ; September. La Petite Marie. — White, free bloomer; height, i foot; August ; charming- habit and pretty flowers. Lily Stevens. — Pure white ; October. Little Bon. — Crimson brown; height, li feet; September; persistent bloomer. Lizzie George. — Rich golden yellow ; height, 2 feet ; Septem- ber ; dwarf and free flowering; bushy habit. Longfellow. — White tinted pink ; height, 2i feet ; September. LuCKSDV. — -Minute bronzy-yellow flowers, very free; October; height, I foot. Lyon. — Rosy purple; height, 3 feet; September; one of the best. Madame A. Colmiche. — Reddish orange ; height, 3i feet ; October; should be disbudded. MAD.4.ME E. Lefort. — Orange and red; height, 2.! feet; Sep- tember and October ; profuse bloomer ; splendid habit. Madame Jolivart. — Blush white; height, iJ^ feet; August and September ; free flowering. Madame Picoul. — Light rosy purple ; height, 2 feet ; August. Maud Pitcher. — Bronze ; height, 2 feet ; September. MiGNON. — Deep golden yellow; height, ij feet; August; fine for bedding. Mls.S D.wis. — Pink ; height, 3 feet ; late October ; splendid bushv habit ; sport from Mrs. Cullingford. Miss Phyllis Broughton. — White ; height, 2 feet ; September. !\TONS. A. Herlaut. — Red. tipped yellow ; height, i| feet ; Octo- ber ; dwarf and compact. Mrs. Cullingford. — Blush white; height, 3 feet; October; bushy habit. Mrs. E. Stagey. — Deep apricot; height, 1} feet; September; charming plant ; sport from Mr. Selly. Mr. Selly. — Rosy pink; height, i-J- feet ; September; profuse bloomer. Mr. W. Piercy. — Orange red ; height, 2 feet ; September. Nanum. — Creamy white; height, ij feet; August; fine habit. Nestor. — Large flower, fimbriated ; colour, reddish-bronze ; October ; height, 2 feet. Orange Pet. — Gold, shaded orange ; height, 2 feet ; Septem- ber ; a glorious acguisition ; free flowering. LIST OF VARIETIES. 185 Petillant. — Creamy white; height, il feet; August. PiERCY's Seedling. — Bronze ; height, li feet ; September ; sturdy, free-flowering plant. Plentiful. — Deep canary yellow ; height, 2I feet ; October. POMPONIUM.— Old ffold ; height, 2 feet ; October ; neat little flower. Pre'cocite. — Bright yellow ; height, 2 feet ; September ; good colour. President. — Rose purple ; height, 3 feet ; November ; striking colour for late displays. Primrose. — Primrose ; height, i-J feet ; September ; large flower of pretty form. Reggie. — Cream ; height, 2 feet ; September ; of perfect form and very free-flowering. Rose Wells. — Deep pink ; height, 2 feet ; September. Salter's Early Blush. — Rosy blush ; height, li feet ; August ; the earliest of the series. Scarlet Gem. — Synonymous with Little Bob. Souvenir d'un Ami. — White ; height, 2 feet ; September and October. St. Crouts. — Pink, small flowers ; height, 2 feet ; September ; free flowering. St. Mary. — Pure white; height, li feet; September and October. StraTHMEATH. — Rosy pink ; height, i-J feet ; September ; large flowers. Toreador. — Orange red ; heig"ht, 2 feet ; September ; spare habit. Veuve Clicquot. — Brick red and yellow ; beautiful form ; height, 2 feet ; October ; one of the best ; free-growing habit. Wells' Pink. — Pink ; height, 2 feet ; September. White Lady. — Blush white ; height, 2 feet ; September ; very dainty ; compact habit. White St. Crouts. — White ; height, 2 feet ; September ; free flowering. Yellow Gem. — Pale yellow ; height, 2 feet ; late October ; flowers with fimbriated petals. Yellow lAmi ConDERCHET. — Golden yellow ; height, li feet ; September ; sport from LAmi Conderchet. Yellow Lefort. — Bright yellow sport from Madame Lefort. TWELVE POMPON GARDEN VARIETIES. Alice Butcher. *Madame E. Lefort. Anastasia. *Mr. Selly. *Blushing Bride. Mrs. E. Stacey. Golden Beauty. *Orange Pet. Little Bob. Veuve Clicquot. *Lyon. *Yellow Lefort. The six varieties marked with an asterisk will meet the needs of small growers. 1S6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. MINIATURE FLOWERED POMPONS FOR POT CULTURE. Dolly.— A lovely rich canary-yellow flower of good form, and very effective; mid-season; late October and November. Katie Mannings— Charming Httle rosy bronze variety ; should be partiallv disbudded; November; height, 3 feet. LniLE Pet.— Small, neat flower of a blush colour; height, 02 feet. Model of Perfection.— Rosy-lilac blossoms of neat, globular form; November; dwarf habit; free flowering. Primrose League. — Lovely primrose-coloured sport from Snow drop ; in other respects similar to the parent variety ; late November and December. Snowdrop. — Pure white flowers of dainty form ; free-flower- ing ; verv small; beautiful in sprays; late; height, 3 feet. The Hady.— One -of the most minute of all small-flowenng pcmipons, the blossoms, which are borne in pretty little spravs, varying in size from half-an-inch to three-quar- ters in diameter; colour, yellow; dwarf; late November and early December. \'IC10RINE. — Free-flowering; small rosettc-like in form; colour, maroon-crimson ; dwarf. TWELVE POMPON VARIETIES SUITABLE FOR DECORATIVE USES IN POTS. *Adele Prisette. — This variety has pretty little fimbriated blossoms of a rosy-lilac colour ; November; good habit; dwarf. Eynsford Gem. — This is another soft purple-rose coloured flower ; November ; dwarf. *iMDLLE. Elise Dordan. — Very neat, full globular form ; colour, soft lilac-pink; late Oct.; free-flo\\ering ; good habit. *Miss Lily Stevens. — A'ery full, rather small, pure white flowers ; November ; dwarf habit. *"0SIR1S. — Charming- pale rosy purple, petals tipped salmon ; disbud partially ; November. President. — Dark rosy purple; a well-kn(jwn and reliable variety ; sometimes g"ood outdoors ; November. ROSINANTE. — A lovely blush-rose variety; dw-arf and free- flowering ; partially disbud in this case ; November. S(e:1'R Melanie. — A fine hybrid pompon of the easiest culture ; liurc white ; good for decorative uses ; late October. *\\'ILLI.«I Ken.xedv. — A rich purplish-violet flower ; when jjar- tially disbudded the flowers are very effective ; November. *WlLLIAM Sabey. — This is a profuse-blooming, rich yellow flower; sometimes good outdoors; November. William Westlake. — One of the best pure yellow pompons in cultivation ; should be disbudded ; November. Yellow Gem. — Pretty little bushy plant, bearing fimbriated flowers of good form ; colour, dull yellow ; late October. * Six \arieties for small growers. LIST OF VARIETIES. 187 CHAPTKR ITT. SINQLE-FLOWERED VARIETIES. SELECTION FOR BORDER CULTURE. Bound's Favourite. — A pretty golclcn-buff flower, borne (m light and elegant sprays; free-flowering-; height, 2i feet. Canada. — Beautiful plant, bearing flowers of good form ; colour, bronzy-salmon ; the flowers are of good form and the plant bushy ; height, 2 feet. CA.\OPUS.--This is a pretty rosy-carmine flower, evolved nn useful plants, well adapted for border culture; height, 2 feet. Cecil. — Pretty flowers of medium size, of good and rose-pink colour^ with white zone round yellow disc ; height, 2s feet. Clarice. — A handsome plant, having flowers of a ruby-crimson colo.ir, with greenish-yellow centre ; plants are a mass of blooms, that retain their culture well ; height, 2^ feet. Dr. Ingram. — An ideal border single; free-flowering plant, evolving- cluster sprays of pleasing character ; colour, terra- cotta ; height, 2 feet. Eric. — Another beautiful, free-flowering, border plant ; charm- ing sprays ; colour, bronze on yellow ground ; height, 2-1- feet. Florence Gillham. — This is a pure white variety ; plant has a capital bushy habit, is free-flowering and robust ; height, 3 feet. Formidable. — Another good rose-pink coloured variety, that develops good sprays of blossoms on a desirable plant ; height, 3 feet. Hilda's Favourite. — This is a plant with a grand bushy habit, and is free-flowering ; colour, a bright reddish terra-cotta ; height, 2j feet. Jeanette. — A bushy, free-flowering plant, bearing beautiful pale rose-pink blossoms; very pretty; height, 2 feet. Jessie Wallace. — Another handsome variety ; plant has a sturdy, bushy habit of growth, and the sprays and blossoms are of pleasing form ; colour, old rose and salmon ; height, 2i feet. I8S CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Juno. — Thi? l^ushy, frcc-HowunnL;- plant luib pixUy blossoms of a j-eilow colour, tinted bronze; height, 2 feet. Kathleen. — Another distinct and pretty rlower of a golden- salmon colour; useful a? a border plant; flowers are \'ery eftectn e under artificial light ; height, 24 feet. Ladv AlOLLV. — A very attractive variety ; the well-formed blos- soms are evolved in dainty sprays, and m the autumn sun are most effectn e ; colour, cinnamon-red ; height, 2 feet. jNIarie Corelli. — A welcome addition, because of its rich and beautiful yellow flowers; Ijlossoms are real gems; height, iS inches or rather more. Mary. — This is valued for its reddish salmon-coloured blos- soms ; it is a free-flowering plant, and is beautiful in the border; height, 2 feet. ;Merstha.m LiLOkv. — Another grand bedder ; large reddish- crimson blossoms are borne m profusion, on a splendid branching habit of growth; height, 2! feet. ^Irs. Chas. tluRTls. — An old type of early single; flowers are large and of a bright crimson colour; habit, bushy and sturdy; free-flowering; height, 3 feet. Nancy. — A pretty flower with broad florets; colour, pink, with white centre ; height, iS inches or rather more. Olive. — Another charming little plant, bearing pretty blossoms of a blush colour, with white centre; height, iS inches. Pathfinder. — This is a plant of singular beauty, evolving dainty blossoms in elegant sprays ; colour, bronzy-buff ; late flowers are of richer colour ; height, 2-'r feet. Philadelphia. — A really excellent plant, developing charming- sprays of blossoms of good form ; colour, rose-pink, with white zone round yellow disc ; height, 3 feet. SriTFlRE. — (Juite distinct from all others. The flowers have several rows of florets, and they are strikingly effective ; on the plant and in a cut state the flowers last a very long time ; height, 2 feet. Surrey. — Another very distinct and beautiful flower ; colour, salmon-corise, glorious under artificial light ; pretty plants ; height, 2 feet. SELECTION OF LARQE = FLOWERED SINGLES FOR POT CULTURE. Admiral Sir T. Symonds. — Pure golden yellow. Althea. — Clear rose, white zone, round yellow disc ; broad florets. Amber Queen. — Soft yellowish-amber, shaded chestnut. America. — White, shaded blush ; useful late sort. Bronze Edith Pagr.am. — Sport from Edith Pagram ; colour, bright reddish-bronze, with yellow base. Clibran's Tw'entieth Century.— Golden bronze, shaded yellow; perfect flower. LIST OF VARIETIES. 1S9 Clibran'S Yellow. — Very fine yellow, lovely in sprays. Coronation. — A monster flower ; colour, delicate pink on cream ground ; bold green eye. Crown Jewel. — Beautiful large flo\\er of rich bronzy-yellow colour. Daffodil. — Medium-sized flower of fine form ; colour, daff^odil- yellow. Daisy Brett. — Pure white of good form ; sport from Earls- wood Beauty. Doris Stevenson. — Large and well-formed reddish-crimson flowers Dorothy FORTESCUE. — Large pure white flower, form similar to a poinsettia ; late. Dorothy Speller. — One of the best deep yellow varieties. Earlswood Beauty. — Light primrose ; lovely form. Earlswood Terra-COTTA. — As its name implies, this is a terra-cotta flower, of good quality. Edith Pagram. — Rose-pink ; very free ; splendid form. Elsie Neville. — Brilliant terra-cotta. Emily' Clibran. — Pretty salmon-bronze, with yellow zone round disc. EuCHARIS. — Purest white ; fine for cutting. Eureka. — Very lar^-e white high disc ; very decorative. Evelyn Foster. — Rose-shaded white ; perfect form. Ey'NSFORD Glory. — Large pure white flower, with long, droop- ing petals. Felicity. — A November-flowering kind, pure ivory-white : beautiful disbudded. Felix. — Very large crimson-bronze flower, of fine form. Florence Robinson. — A singularly beautiful pure white flower of large size. Framfield Beauty. — Deep rich velvety crimson ; handsome late variety. Framfield White. — Charming- flowers of purest white ; par- tially disbud ; late ; medium size. Golden Star. — Clear yellow. G. W. Forbes. — Rich crimson, shaded amaranth; yellow disc. Jane Russell. — Large golden-yello«-, on stiff, erect flower- stems. J. F. iMcLeod. — A reliable golden-yellow, of good size. Kate Williams. — Golden-yellow, curling florets ; sweet- scented. Lady iMargiterite Douglas.— A pure white of considerable beauty ; bold green eye. Lady Mayoress Sayers. — Rich vellow, beautiful in sprays. Ludlow Simplex. — Another large flower; colour, old gold and crimson. Madame Melba. — Very large flower; colour, cream, flushed pink. M.A.GNIFICA. — Immense cream.-coloured flower, shaded yellow at base. 1911 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Mary Richardson. — A di>iin(t and < harmin;;- flnner uf a rcd- dish-faliiKin colour; di^ljud. May Jeal. — Rosy violet lined while; ;i Ijeauly. -MkrsIii.ui W'HIIE. — Another larj^e imre \\hite (lower, on erect stem, ; disbud. .Ml-. ll'A. -Slrikin«- Houer, of deciJ niaj^enta-red colour, with white zone ■■oiind disc ; ;4rand. .Miss Doris Haimiruhie.- I- ree-tlowerinn, rose-pink variety, of j^ood si/e. MiS.s li. HaiMI'SO.X. — Lovely creamy white; beautiful clusters of blo.ssoms. -Miss Irene CrA(;o.- I?eautiful white; nood spra\s ellow, flushed bronz>-red; free flow-ering-. NaN(-\- .\lAGILLIC^•Dll^-. — I.;n-g-e (rimson flower of good form. NoR,\ D.-IVIES. — Reddish terracotta, lovely in sprays ; late. Oldfield Glory. — Rich creamy white ; good form. Paris Daisy. — Purest white, of daint\' form ; beautiful habit ; October. I'lNK FEUCrr\'.— (.)ne R.\. I.argi- and hand-oiii.- pink liowei,. lainlli shaded mau\-i-; flat jietals. Robert Morgan. — Intense rosy amaranth; large; lale flower- ing-. Roi-J^ELL I?eaut\-.— A large and beautiful wine-red flower; fine form. R^ ECROFT Belle. — Rich pink, of superb form ; large flowers. LIST OF VARIETIES. 191 Sir George BullOUGH. — Deep yellow of beautiful form ; very free, fine in sprays. Sir R. Buller. — Gold, shaded chestnut; large and beautiful. SvLVi.^ Slaue. — Like an immense cineraria bloom ; colour, lake, with white zone round disc. T. G. ScRIBBAXS. — Another good flower of large size ; colour, bronze, with yellow zone round disc. The Liox. — A medium-sized flower of fine quality ; colour, rosy-red. Thirza Gherrv. — A spidery flower with tubular florets ; soft mauve ; late. Victoria. — Grcamy primrose of good form ; very pretty. WHI't'E Edith Pa(.;ram.— A white sport from the popular Edith Pagram. Winifred Hull. — Large, deep crimson ; a flower of good quality. Winnie Sherrixg. — An apricot-coloured flower of large size and great beauty. W. Rogers. — A bright crimson-scarlet flower of large size and beautiful form. Wyndh.'^m. — This is a valuable, late, pure white kind, having large flat florets. Yellow Giant. — Glear lemon-yellow ; large. Yellow Jacket. — Bright yellow. SELECTION OF SMALL SINGLE FLOWERED VARIETIES FOR POT CULTURE. Annie Wagner. — Deep yellow, charming in sprays ; October. Ariel. — Gharming in sprays ; colour, primrose. Belle of Weydridge. — Rich chestnut-crimson ; good for decoration. Biddy. — A beautiful salmon-pink variety ; October. Bronze Mary Axdersox. — Beautiful bronze ; form similar to prototype. Ginderella. — This is a dainty little pure white flower, with greenish-yellow disc ; October. Emily Wells. — Very beautiful clear pink ; one of the best. Glady.S Hem.sley. — Very beautiful pink variety ; charming in sprays. Godfrey's Gem. — A unique flower, with flat florets, of bright chestnut colour ; slender flower-stalks ; October. Golden AIantle. — Rich yellow seedling from Indicum. Golden Rain. — Another interesting bright canary-yellow Li- dicum seedling. Golden Spray. — Pretty bright gold seedling from Indicum. Gratchen. — Prettv little pure white flower, with green eye. LVDICI'M. — A tiny yellow flower ; the parent of the big flowers of to-day. 192 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. l-NNOCEN't'E. — Of exquisite form ; star-Iikc fluwers, borne on wiry btcnri ; wtrite. King of Siam. — Dark crimson ; one of the best. LiLV RiDUELL. — Pretty little flowers of the brightest terra-cotta colour; October. Little Dear. — Light primrose; another Indicum seedling. Little Nell. — A pure white ; free flowering, stiff habit. Little Primrose. — Indicum seedling of deep primrose-yellow colour. jMary Anderson. — White, suffused rose ; beautiful form ; good habit; dwarf; October-November. Midget. — Pink, with yellow disc ; very small neat flowers. Miss Annie Holden. — Straw yellow sport from JMary Anderson. Miss Jessie Dean. — Pretty shade of soft rose, with white zone round disc ; free. Miss Kose. — Pale nink ; free-flowering and dwarf. Mrs. J. FergussON. — I^ose pink sport, from Mary Anderson. Mrs. Keriionde. — A pretty flower, nf a warm terra-cotta colour. Mrs. Norris. — Bright yellow ; free-flowering and dwarf. Old Gold. — Old-gold colour ; dwarf habit. Peggy, — A free-flowering terra-cotta variety ; October. Rose Perfection. — Bright rose ; the best of its colour. Star of Honour. — Pure white, very free ; distinctly charming. Terr,-\-Cotta. — This is a free-flowering terra-cotta flower; No- vember. Treasure. — Bright \'ellow ; profuse bloomer. Winnie Wells. — A charming- deejo yellow variety. Yellow Daisy. — Another Indicum seedling of a deep yellow colour ; very pretty. LIST OF VARIETIES. 193 CHAPTER IV. ANEMONE AND REFLEXED VARIETIES. SIX POMPON ANEMONES FOR POT CULTURE. Antonius. — Very rich golden-yellow variety ; flowers, of g-ood form ; November ; good habit. Emily Rowbottom. — Chaste cream white, sport from Marie Stuart ; free-flowering ; November ; invaluable. Firefly. — Rather small though effective flowers of bright scarlet, with yellow disc ; November ; rather tall. Gem of Earlswood. — Beautiful when grown in partially dis- budded sprays ; colour, rosy-blush guard florets, clear citron disc ; November. Madame Chalonge. — An old and well-known variety ; colour, blush guard florets, and blush-shaded sulphur disc ; November ; medium height. Marie Stuart. — Pretty flower ; pale lilac guard florets, sul- phur-yellow disc ; November ; good habit. The Pompon Anemones are better when partially disbudded. SIX LARGE ANEMONES FOR POT CULTURE. Descartes. — An invaluable variety ; colour, bright crimson- red, tipped gold • early November ; rather tall. Georges Sand. — Colour, bronze-red guard florets, and red disc ; tipped gold ; November ; dwarf habit. Gluck. — Good golden-yellow self ; free-flowering ; November. Madame ROBT. Owen. — Profuse-flowering pure white sort ; November. Mrs. Caterer. — A free-flowering variety of the purest white ; late November. Mrs. C. J. Salter. — Pretty orange-buff, of medium size ; nice bushy habit ; November. 194 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. SIX LONG TASSELLED OR JAPANESE ANEMONES FOR POT CULTURE. John Bunvan. — A very fine rich yellow variety, deeper centre; of good form ; November ; good habit. Kaihlkex .May. — A grand addition to the decorative Japa- ne>e Anemone; colour, rich, glowing crimson; Decem- ber; certificated by the N.C.S. Marsia Jones. — Pure white flower of large size; November. Queen Elizaiieth. — \'ery striking flo«er; fluted guard florets of a silvery-blush colour, with rose and yellow disc; November. Sir Walter Kaleii^h. — A very beautiful type of bloom, with pale blush guard florets, deeper coloured centre ; large and of g-ood form ; November ; a \ig(irous jjlant. W. W. Asi'OR. — Large and good flower ; blush guard florets, disc. Yellow, shaded rose ; Noveml^er ; height, about 4 feet. SIX REFLEXED FOR POT CULTURE. CULLINGFORDI. — Brilliant crimson, golden rexcrse ; November and December; dwarf; a good late sort. Elsie. — Very free flowering rich cream-coloured variety ; in flower late October ; height, 4 feet. Golden Elsie. — A glorious golden-yellow sport from Elsie ; profuse flowering-, charming in sprays ; late October ; height, 4 feet. James Carter. — Beautiful amber-coloured flower, partially dis- bud ; height, about 4 feet ; late flowering. Pink Christine.— Another old sort; colour, light pink; dwarf habit ; November. White Christine.— An old and much valued white kind; height, 3 feet. LIST OF VARIETIES. ]95 CHAPTER V. DECORATIVE AND MARKET VARIETIES. JAPANESE. AcQUlsniON.— Attractive flower; colour, bright red, with gold reverse ; dw art" habit ; November. Ado.MS. — Pretty light rose variety; November. A. J. Balfour. — Pale mauve-pink ; dwarf bushy habit ; December. A. J. FosTEK. — This is a flower with long, tubular petals; colour, pale rose, shaded white ; November. Allman's Yellow. — Free-flowering ; bright rich yellow ; December. Ariane. — A useful flower ; colour, delicate pale rose ; compact growth ; November. B.^RON Victor Reille. — Interesting flower of deep lilac colour, on white ground ; November. Beauty of Shoeing.— For December displays this is a pretty bronzy-orange variety. Bertie B'i.xdox. — Charming little pure white thrcad-pctalled flower ; dwarf habit ; December. Black Hawk. — Rich velvety-crimson ; small flowers ; Decem- ber. Bl.ack Prin'CE.- -Striking deep crimson flower, with gold re- verse ; November. Boule de Feu. — Attractive rich orange-coloured flower, shaded fiery red ; should be disbudded ; November. Bronze Fabre.— Pretty bronze sport from Mdlle. M. Fabrc. Bronze jMr,s, Jos. Thomp.son. — A useful bronze sport from Mrs. Jos. Thompson ; December. Bronze Soleil d'Octobre. — Lovely bronzy-fawn sport from Soleil d'Octobre ; October. Cannell's Late Prolific. — Free-flowering pure white variety lifts well ; December. Caprice du Printemps. — Pretty rosy amaranth, tipped white October-November. Gapt. Bellamy. — Clear yellow, dwarf and sturdy habit December. o 2 J9li CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Charles Davis Imcron ed.— Rich rosy bronze ; easy grower ; November. Charles Hohi!S.--A distinct flower; colour, rich biood-red ; good habit ; No\ ember. Charm of Win ier.— Free-How eriii).;- s-mall white kind, lovely m spra\s ; December. Cheltoxl— Yellow sport from the well-known Nellie 1 ockett ; same habit ; December. Ch'e\ALIER Do.mage. — An old and well-known reliable retlexed ; colour, bright yellow. Cl.ara Vurnum.— Good full flowers of a deep crimson-chestnut colour, are produced on stiff stems ; a grand flower under artificial light; November; certificated N.C.S. Clinton Chalfont.— Bright yellow; free flowering; October and early November. Co^fTE F. Lurani. — Charming- dwarf plant, evolving beautiful rosy-pink blossoms ; November. Crimson Gem. — A well-known December kind with rather small flowers ; colour, bright crimson. Crimson Ouintus. — S>n. with Tokio, a small, bright crimson flower ; December. Crimson Source d'Or. — Rich chcstnut-r;d ; sport from Source d'Or ; November. Cl'LLINGFORDI. — For its rich velvety-crimson flowers this beau- tiful reflexed variety is much thought of in December. C. W. Payne. — Lovely blush-pink; spo .t from Princess Vic- toria ; December. Dazzler. — Crimson-Scarlet; useful for October and November- floweing. Dean's F.WOURITE. — A salmon-coloured sport, Mdlle. M. Fabre ; late October. Distinction. — Large flower of good form ; colour, soft rosy- fawn, shading to amber; November. Docteur Enguehard. — A good deep rose-colour flower ; useful for cutting in December. Dorothy GinsON. — This is a lovely rich golden-yellow reflexed ; October-November. Elaine. — An old and well-known pun: white kind ; October and Novemoer. Eleanor Duchess of Northumberland. — Charming white flower, flushed with lilac ; December. Elthorne Gold. — A beautiful clear lemon-yellow flower ; should be disbudded ; early November. Ernest Daudet. — Promising flower when disbudded; colour, old gold; shaded orange; October. F.sxtE Reed.— Beautiful pure white sport from Mrs. Wakefield ; grand for small pots ; October. Ethel iNI. Ring. — Sport from La Triomphant, of a white and \'p11ow colour ; November. LIST OF VARIETIES. 197 E'i'OILE DE Fku. — Fiery red, suffused with gold ; very free ; November and early December. Etoile Polaire. — Pure white; good bushy habit; October. Ettie Mitchell. — Dwarf plant ; colour, rich yellow, shaded bronze ; Octcber-November. Felton's Favourite.— One of the finest November-flowering white market kinds extant ; free-flowering ; beautiful sprays ; lifts well ; of easy culture ; certificated by the N.C.S. FlAMlNA. — Good bush plant ; colour, bright crimson ; late November and 13ecember. Flore. — Another October-flowering" varietv ; colour, blush. Florence Davis. — White, with greenish tinge in centre; charming in sprays ; November. Florence Headley. — Bronzy sport from Mdme. Felix Perrin ; December. FOXHUNTER. — Large, free-flowering variety ; colour, bright chestnut, golden reverse ; November. Framfield Pink. — See Mdme. Felix Perrin. Framfield Yellow. — Free-flowering, golden-yellow variety ; blossoms on long- stems ; October. Francois Pilon. — Rich golden-yellow ; blooms, large and solid ; late ; December. Freda Bedford. — Free-flowering, orange-apricot coloured blossoms of medium size ; grand habit ; November. F. S. Vallis. — Grand canary-yellow variety ; splendid quality ; November and December ; of easy culture. F. W. Lever. — An exceptionally flne variety ; flowers large, incurved ; florets long ; colour, creamy-white ; requires to be disbudded ; November. Gladiator. — A brilliant crimson-red, golden reverse ; must be disbudded ; December. Gladys Roult. — Snow white of compact form ; free ; October and November ; disbud. Glitter. — A very deep yellow flower ; should be disbudded ; November. Glorious. — Bright and useful reddish-crimson variety ; No- vember-December. Glory. — Lovely rich golden-yellow self ; free and distinct ; December. Godfrey's King. — Bright reddish-crimson ; large flowers ; November. Golden Age. — A plant of easy culture ; colour, yellow ; long stalks; liffs well; December. Golden Gate. — Another December-flowering variety ; colour, apricot ; large flower. Golden Princess Victoria. — Beautiful yellow sport from Princess Victoria ; December. Golden Standard. — A pretty yellow sport from Tuxedo ; De- cember. 19s CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Gold >[ixe. — Another rich golden-} cilow varict\- ; December. Guv HamiltOxN. — Chaste pure white ; beautiful in small pots ; November. TI.\RRV A. Parr. — Beautiful Icmnn-yellow ; free; bushy habit; dwarf; November. He.sion White. — Pure white .^port from .Madame Felix Perrin, a lieauty ; December. HesieR P'DWARD.s. — \'ery prett}' rosy-salmon \arict>', < harminM in sprays ; NoA'cniber-December. He'I'TV Well.s. — Beautiful rcflexed Japanese; colour, orange- buff ; November. Hox. Mrs. A. Acland. — r.argc flower of a deep yellow colour; must be disbudded ; October-November. HOR rus TouLOUSAXl's. — Rich orange-bronze ; flowers l)orne on erect stems; October. If. J. Jo.xes, igoS.- Blooms of immense size ; petals incurved and broad ; colour, rich yellow ; easily grow n variety ; requires to be disbudded ; November and December. H. J. GILLINGHAM. — I.ovely primrose-yellow ; sport from Western King ; November. II. W. Rieman. — Deep golden \ellow ; late. Ideal. — Charming combination of iMir\-\\ hite and libac ; good disbudded; late October. l\OR\'.- Free-flowering white kind ; dwarf habit ; November. Jessie AI. GODFRE^■.~ -Large, useful flower; colour, deep golden-yellow ; November. John Scott. — Another large flower for October uses; white; a famous market sort. JOHX SHRIMin'O-X. — An old and well-known crimson-scarlet \'aiiety ; November. J. H. White (Syn. White Clinton Chalfont).— Sport from White Clinton Chalfont ; similar to the parent in all but colour ; October-November. Jl^LlE Fa(;ravere. — A very old, free-flowering, dark red kind ; late November and December. KA'rHLEE:x Lamdrk K.- Laige Japanese rcflexed of even form; colour, blush-pink; October; certificated N.C.S. Kaihleex ThomI'SOX.— Of the easiest culture; good habit; colour, rich chestnut, tipped gold ; a valuable sport from Caprice du Printemps ; good in any form; Oi tober and November. Klir\' Gl'LLIVFR.-- Japanese rcflexed, distinct and jjretfy; colour, rosc-])ink_, with white centre ; November. KllTV RoiiERls. — Pretty flower of a yellow colour, shaded orange ; twisting florets ; November. I.ADV Beli'ER. — A pure white kind, valued for its display in December and January. LIST OF VARIETIES. 19'J Lady Hanham. — Rosy-cerise sport from ^■iviand Morel ; November, Lady Selborne.— Pure white ; free and distinct ; late October and November, L'Africaine. — A deep crimson flower of good size ; good habit ; late October. L. Canning. — A well-known late flowering- pure white kind ; December and January. La TriomI'HANT.— Lilac-rose, tinted white ; Noxember. Le Cygne. — A free-flowering, snow-white variety ; blossoms borne on stiff stems ; October. Leila Filkins. — Soft shade of pale pink ; November ; good habit. Liberty. — This is a cream-coloured flower, tinted rose ; useful for late October. Lizzie Adcock.— Glorious rich yellow sport from Source d'Or ; November. Lord Brooke. — An old and popular orange, shaded bronze kind ; Christmas. Lumineau. — A coppery-crimson variety ; flow ering in October. Mabel Ellis. — Beautiful market variety ; colour, deep yellow ; November. Mabel Morgan. — Rich yellow ; free and of good quality ; late December. Madame Felix Perrin. — One of the best late pink sorts ; very charming-; December; grood habit. Margot. — Pretty salmon-pink ; free-flowering ; October. Marguerite. — This is a dull rosy-cerise sport from Caprice du Printemps ; October. -Marguerite L, Silhol. — A pure white December variety. Market Gold. — Very fine deep yellow variety ; in flower from early December till January ; dwarf, sturdy habit. Market Red. — Brightest red, with golden reverse ; late Octo- ber and November. Mary McBean. — Deep bronze ; a notched-petalled variety ; December, Matthew Hodgson. — Distinct shade of crimson-brown ; December, Mdlle. Gabrielle Debrie, — Malmaison-pink ; lovely in sprays ; November. Mdlle, J, No.nin. — A pure white Japanese incurved, for late purposes ; December. Mdlle. Louise Charvet. — Good pink, of pleasing form ; December. -Mdlle. .M. Desjouis. — A beautiful snowy-white Japanese in- curved, for October use. Mdlle. M. Fabre. — An old and well-known pink variety ; late October and November. Mdlle Renee Avizard. — Delicate creamy-fawn ; sport from Mdlle. G. Bebrie. iOO CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Mdlle. Therese Pan'ckoucke. — Pure white; long- petals; tall ; December. :\1dme. a. Chate.\a\. — Another pure white variety; late De- cember. Mdme. a. Duhamel. — Pure white ; large and of good form ; disbud ; October-November. MUME. K. Caig.xard. — Charming satm-pink kmd ; late Oc- tober. Mdme. Edaijond Roger. — Incurved variety, white, overlaid with green ; November. Mdme. G. BussON. — A beautiful malmaison Ijlush kind, flowering at Christmas. jMdme. H. Douillet. — Another December-flowering a ariety ; colour, deep rose-pink. JMdme. NOBEL.S. — Beautiful bronzy-buff sport from ]\klme. Gabriel le Debrie ; November. Mdme. Paolo Radaelli. — Large rose and white coloured flower; December; should be disbudded. Mdme. Philippe Rivoire. — Creamy-white ; large flowers ; late December. Mdme. R. Cadburv. — Beautiful ivory white ; quite distinct ; late December. Mdme. R. Oiserthur.— Large flower, with long, drooping petals ; pure white ; December. Menelick. — This is a blackish-crimson flower, free and pretty in sprays ; October. J\lERELLK. — ^'ery pretty pink variety, flowering late in October. Mikado. — A bronze flower, somewhat similar in form to Source d'Or ; December. Miss Alice Byron.— ..'ure \\'hite of incurved Japanese form ; November. iMlss Clay Frick.— Pure white sport from W. Duckham ; beau- tiful sprays ; November. Miss Doris Raeiiurn.-- -A chaste white sport from Mdllc. -M. Fabre. Miss Edith Davey.— Rosy cerise sport from Mdme. Felix Perrin ; December. Miss E. Fowler.- -A January-flowering, deep vellow \arietv. Miss Faith ftfOORE. — Large snowy-white flowers of Japanese incurved form ; late October. Miss M.ary Godfrey. —Pretty, clear canary-yellow variety, for October market purposes. Aflss.MAfD JEFFERIES.— A pure white variety, flowering late in December. Miss Miriam Hankey.— A beautiful December-flowering, mauve-pink variety. AIiss Muriel Smith. --A lovely old rose-coloured flower, pale bronze reverse ; disbud ; November. Money Maker. — Good white variety; good habit; will develop a good number of excellent flowers in No;-ember. LIST OF VARIETIES. 201 MONS. GaTESLOOT. — A late-flowering- citi-on-yellow variety ; December. MONS. Paul Wattine. — Lovely orange-coloured flower, for Christmas uses. MoNS. William Holmes. — An old and well-known crimson variety, g;old reverse ; late October. Morton F. Plant. — A deep pink variety, flowering- at Christ- mas and January. Mr. T. W. McNiece. — Rose-pink ; fine quality flowers ; good habit ; November. Mrs. A. Duncan. — A distinct pure white sport from Niveus ; December. Mrs. a. T. Miller. — Charming for any purpose ; pure white ; November. Mrs. Barkley. — Lovely rosy-mauve ; broad, flat florets ; December. .Mrs. Bischoffsheim. — Lovely orange-yellow, shaded red; November ; very bright. Mrs. Filkins. — Charming little yellow spidery flower ; Decem- ber. Mrs. George Beech. — An invaluable deep yellow sport from Mrs. Swinburne. Mrs. Goddard. — Charming decorative variety ; colour, rosy- red ; November. Mrs. Greenfield. — Deep golden-yellow ; very fine ; November. Mrs. J. Kempley. — Flowers of neat and even Japanese reflexed form ; colour, old rose, gold centre ; OctolDer. Mrs. John Meakins. — Free-flowering terra-cotta variety, with buflr reverse ; good habit ; November. Mrs. J. Thompson. — Very fine creamy white incurved Japanese ; December. Mrs. J. W. Scott. — A very popular pure white kind ; has long, stiff, erect stems ; good for lifting and pot culture ; Oc- tober. Mrs. Rolfe. — Pretty Japanese incurved, of a bright silvery- pink colour ; November. Mrs. S-WINBURNE. — Creamy-white ; excellent for late work. Mrs. Wakefield. — Charming Japanese reflexed flo-«'er, long, stiff flower-stalks; colour, crimson, shaded terra-cotta; November. Mrs. W. Elliot. — Another very pure white of drooping form; good habit ; late December. Mrs. W. p. Bound. — A plant evolving its bloom on erect stems; colour, deep crimson, tipped gold; November. Muriel Brett. — Another pretty Japanese reflexed ; colour, ' reddish-pink ; packs well ; November. MURILLO. (See Garden Varieties.) Nagoya. — Richest shade of golden-yellow ; late December. Nancy Cliff. — A flower with broad petals, pure white ; No- vember. •202 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. N. C. S. JuniLEE. — ricasing bluish-mauvc ; incuixcd Japanese blijiim ; November. Nkllii; ro(_Kb;TT.--\'er\' frrc-ricwcrhiK, poaiiy-w hitc kind; December. Nkllie Stevens. — Beautiful rosj-faw n Hower ; November. NlvETiE. — Pure white ; free-ttowering ; October variety. NiVEUS. — Chaste white sort of good quality ; December. NoREE.x Jaw — Brilliant crimson-scarlet flower, with golden reverse ; certificated N.C.S. ; late November. NoRM.AX D.wis. — A well-know n chestnut and bronze flower ; Niivcmbcr. Novelty. — White, flushed green; very pretty; November. NovEiMliER Gold. — A \ery handsome full flower of drooping form ; colour, rich goldcn-\'ellow ; late November. OCTOHER Cri,\LSOX. — Ix)\ely crimson ; good companion to Soleil d'Octobrc ; late October. OCTOliKR Gold. — A beautiful old-gold coloured variety; Oc- tolicr ; certificated N.C.S. Old (iOLl).- -Fine bold flowers, freely produced; colour, bright golden-bronze ; December. O.MEG.A. — Dwarf and robust plant, good for cutting; colour, canary->'ellow ; December. P.ARSO.X'S WnrrE.— A white sport from La Triomphant ; No- vember. I'ERFEC'i lO-X. -Beautiful Japanese rcflexed ; colour, rich crim- son-red ; a gem; November. PHGiBUS. — A yellow of good rjuality ; November. PiXK IvORW — Pink sport from Ivory; November; splendid market variety. PoLVi'HEME.- -Large, full flowers; colour, bright canary-yel- low ; November. Pride of RyecrOFT. — Primrose-yellow sport from Niveus ; December. Prlxcess Victoria. — A good white market variety; December. Procxe. — A very old rcflexed variety; sw'eet-scented ; colour, bright purple-amaranth ; late November. ijl'EEX Alexandra. — Lovely bush plant ; colour, pleasing rosy- salmon ; December. Queen of the Exe.— Pure white ; good for cutting ; Decem- ber. (,)t'EEX OF THE MARKET.— A chaste pearly-white variety. R.\DIAXCE. — Bold and handsome flower ; colour, brilliant rich ■crimson ; December. Rayonnante. — Pretty shrimp-pink colour ; tubular petals ; November. Red Canning. — Bright red variety; December. Red Princess \'ictoria.-— Rosy-pink sport from Princess A'ic- toria ; December. Red Soleil D'Octoiire.— A terra-cotta red sport from the popular Soleil d"Octobre ; late October. LIST OF VARIETIES. -'11:^ Renee. — Very large flower; colour, beautiful blending of lilac, mauve, and pink shades; November. R. F. Felton. — One of the very best market sorts extant ; bold flowers with broad petals pleasingly reflexing ; colour, richest shade of golden-yellow ; keeps remarkal^ly well ; November and December; certificated by the N.C.S. Richness. — A plant with a fine habit ; colour, brilliant crim- son ; November. Rose Poitevine. — A November-flowering, deep rosy-pink ; dwarf habit. Safeguard. — Beautiful shade of pink ; good in any form ; October. Satin Rose. — Lovely flowers of a satin-rose colour ; November. Snowflake. — Pure white sport from J\ldme. H. Douillet ; December. SOLEIL d'Octobre. — Good and useful yellow of easy culture ; October. Source D'Or. — Bright orange terra-cotta ; one of the best ; November. Souvenir de Lom1!EZ. — A distinct flower; colour, salmon-red, shaded gold ; November. Souvenir de Petite Amie. — Pure white ; dwarf and bushy ; November. Souvenir de Scalarandls. — Japanese reflexed flower of bril- liant yellow colour ; a good market variety. S. T. Wright. — For December-cut flowers this deep velvety- crimson variety is valuable. SwaNLEY Red. — This plant has a beautiful habit ; colour, vi\id scarlet-crimson. Tapis Rouge. — Lovely decorative variety; colour, carmine-red; late October. Thorpe's Christmas Rose. — A silvery-pink kind, very similar to Framfield Pink ; December. True Gold. — Flowers of the richest shade of yellow, syn. with Golden Age ; December. Tuxedo. — Terra-cotta bronze ; rather tall ; December and January. Val dAndorre. — Chestnut, shaded orange ; November ; disbud. Violet Lady Beaumont. — Deep crimson, with bronze reverse ; broad petals ; December. Viviand Morel. — Llseful mauve-pink flower ; November. \V. Dl^CKH.-tM. — Beautiful Novcmbcr-fl()\^ ering plant ; colour, pale mauve. Weeks' Crimson. ^Brilliant crimson ; dwarf and free-flowor- ing- ; December. Wells' Late Pink. — A lovely silver\--pink ; form not unlike Viviand Morel ; November. Western King. — Glistening- white incur\ed Japanese ; fine quality ; November and December. •20-t CHRYSANTHEMUMS. West Hall Crimson. —Rich crimson, on stiff flower steins ; Cfiristmas. Whme Uouquet. — Good decor;Ui\e \ aricty, of medium size ; pure wliite ; November. White Caprice. — This is a pure white sport from Caprice du Printcmps, or its crimson sport ; a beautiful plant for October cutting-. White Clixton Chalfont. — Pure white sport from Clinton Chalfont ; late October. White La Triomphant. — White sport from La Triomphant. White N.C.S. Jubilee. — White sport from N.C.S. Jubilee; November-December. W. H. Lincoln. — Good rich yellow; sturdy grower; late December. Winter Cheer. — Deep rich carmine-pink sport from Framfield Pink ; December ; grand. Winter Queen. — Pretty little white flower, for December and January. W. J. Crossley. — For Christmas and the early days of January this rich crimson sort is invaluable. Yellow Mrs. Jos. Thompson. — Yellow sport from Mrs. J. Thompson ; December. Yellow Petite Amie. — Yellow sport from Souvenir de Petite Amie ; November. Yellow Triomphant. — Yellow sport from La Triomphant ; November. Yellow Victoria. — Yellow sport from Pink A'ictoria ; equally g-ood. INDEX. PAGE PAGE Anemone-flowered Chrysan- Decorative Chrysanthemums themums 118 Culture of 61 Culture of 120 Cut-back Plants 76 Pompon 120 Feeding 80 List of 193 Final Potting 66 Border Varieties; Culture of 44 Fumigating 86 Borders, Planting in 46 Housing Plants 85 Preparation of 44 List of 195 Situation of 42 Outdoor Culture of 92 Bud Selection 82 Pinching or Stopping . . . 74 Pots for 68 Compost for Final Potting. . . 61 Potting 70 for Propagating 2.S Eepotting 62 for Booted Cuttings 61 Shading 89 Cut-back Plants 76 Staking Plants ... 65, 77 Cutting, A Bad 22 Summer Quarters for . . . 74 A Good 22 Summer Treatment of 72 How to Make a 24 Temperature for 90 Cuttings in Cold Frames ... 37 Ventilation of 89 Compost for 28 Watering 79 , 88 . How to Insert 29 Diseases, Leaf Bust 144 Booted, What to do mth 32 Leaf Spot 146 Treatment of 30 Mildew 147 When to Insert 25 Sclerotinia Disease 148 Division, Propagation by ... 38 Decorative Chrysanthemums Autumn Treatraent of... 85 Early and Semi-Early Varie Bud, Selection of 82 ties 42 (,'ompo.st for 61 Aspect or Position for... 42 Compost for Final Pot- Borders for 44 ting 66 Colour Arrangement of 48 INDEX. K:i|-ly ■■iihl Sciiii-Kaiiy Vai' ties — CuUiirr nf Atraiusl W'all.^ ... ]Oarly-H()\v€rinedes 147 •Slugs and Snails 148 Springtails 148 Thrips 149 VVireworms 149 Woodlice 150 Worms 1.51 Pinching and Stopping Gar- den Sorts 52 Decorative Varieties ... 74 Planting 46 Pomjion Chry3anthennim,s ... 12 Pompons, List of Early- flowering Garden 183 Decorative Varieties for Pots 186 Miniature Flowered for Pots 186 Propagation by Cuttings ... 22 by Division 38 Compost for 28 in Cold Frames 37 of Late-flowering Sorts ... 95 of Market Sorts 102 Methods of 26 Simple Methods of 38 Treatment during 30 Eeflexed-flowered, List of . . . 193 Shading Greenhouses 89 Single-flowered Chrysanthe- mums 114 List of 187 Spidery Chrysanthemums ... 12 PAGE Staking and Tying Garden Sorts 55 Market Varieties 107 Stock Plants for Propagation 14 in Cold Frames 17 in Greenhouse 14 in Pots Hi Lifting 18 Management of 16 of Garden Varieties ... 18 Stools, Care of Old 21 Stopping Decorative Varie- ties 74 Thread-pet ailed Chrysanthe- mums 12 Types of Chrysanthemums 9 Anemone-flowered ... 11, 118 Incurved 11 Japanese 11 Pompon 12 Single-flowered 12 Spidery and Thread- petalled 12 Varieties, Lists of 158 Anemones, Pompons for Pots 193 Large for Pots 193 Decorative, List of 195 Early and Semi-early ... 158 Selection of Garden ... 181 Market, List of 195 Pompons, List of Early ... 183 Miniature-flowered . . . 186 Twelve Garden 185 Twelve for Pots 186 Eeflexed, Six for Pots ... 193 Singles tor Border Culture 187 Large, for Pots 188 Small, for Pots 191 \Valls, Culture xVgainst ... 58 Watering 79 Window Chrysanthemums... 121 •20S INDEX. ILLUSTRATIONS. Anemonej Japanese Pompon Taeselled Aphis, Black or Greenfly Buds, Mode of Thinnin TAQE .. 31 .. 119 .. 49 .. 137 ,. 139 .. 83 Centipede, The 153 Cuckoo-spit, Fly and Larvie 141 Cut-back Plant 77 Cuttings, Types of 23 Decorative Varieties 63, 67, 82 Display in Yorkshire Garden 43 Greenhouse, Chrysanthe- mums in Hawk FlieiK and Larvae Hoverina; Flies and Larvas. Japanese Anemone Eeflexed 31, 87 154 154 49 35 Lace- wing Fly and Larvae... 155 Ladybird Beetle and Larva! 157 Late-flowering Variety ... 18 Leaf Rust 145 Market Varieties, 27, 39, 53. S2, 90, 99, 113 Marguerite Fly and Larva" 113 Plant. Condition for Stopping 84 PAGE Plumed Chrysanthemum ... Ill Pompon, Miniature-flowered 123 Propagator over Pipes ... 29 Semi-Early Variety 103 Single V,arieties 41, 69, 91, 115 Spidery Chrysanthemums ... 13 Stock Plant, A 15 Varieties Astart« 119 Cheveux d'Or 13 Cinderella, FrnnI is piece . Clara Vernum 67 Hetty Well 96 Hilda Lawrence 91 Indicum 9 H. J. Jones, 19(18 27 F. W. Lever .39 King of Plumes Ill Mcrsthani .Tewel 41 Miss Katie King 69 Miss Muriel Smith 113 Mrs. Goilsalm Ward ... 35 Niua Blick 135 Niveus 19 November Gold 53 Moneymaker 98 Perle'Chatillonaise 103 Peter Pan 41 Sir Walter Raleigh 31 Soleil d'Octobre 82 The Lion 115 White Quintus 59 Vase of Early Chrysanthe- mums 119 Chrysanthemums. NORHAN DAVI5, ClQrijScir)\.)r)zn)un) Specialist, To most of the leading Exhibitors for the past 40 years, and Gold Medallist, Royal Horticultural Society. Chrysanthemums supplied for all purposes. For Exhibition, Conservatory or Decorative purposes, and for the Garden. FINEST VARIETIES ONLY, AND GUARANTEED TRIE TO NAME. SINGLE CHRy^ANTHEriUnS These are becoming immensely popular, and I hold probably the finest collection in the world, being the only strain of Single Varieties for which a Gold Medal has been awarded by the National Chrysanthemum Society. CATALOGUE ON APPLICATION. Chrysanthemum Nurseries : FRAMFIELD, LCkFIELD, SISSEX. ( 1 ( I established ISfii. Telephone : No. 34Q7 Eastern. IF YOU HAVE A GREENHOUSE, WHY NOT HEAT IT? ^ Heatijig Apparatus for (Iruuiilioiisos, Hothouses, (iaidcu ' Kraaifs, etu. Oil, (.4as or Coke. Hot Air and Hot A\'ater Propagators. Keep your Plants growing anil flourishing. Send a Postcard for our Free Catalogue. One clas.s made— THE BEST. QUICK DELIVERY. SUPERIOR QOODS. LOWEST PRICES. CHAS.T00PE(FRHs.,&SON, fieatlng Engineers, STEPNEY SQUARE, HIGH ST., STEPNEY, LONDON, E. "ACME" WEED KILLER, For destroying Weeds, Moss, &c., on Carriage Drives, Garden Walks, Roads, &c. THE "ACM E^'^POWDER WEED KILLER No. T No. 2 No. 3 Dissolves quickly in Cold Water. .SufTii:ient to mnke 25 t^.illrins. 1/9 33 61- TlNS Fkek. Su-ength I in 25 and 1 in 50. ^ Prices on application. LIQUID WEED KILLERS. WINTER WASH for Fruit Tree.s. Board of Agriculture Formula. SOLUBLE PARAFFIN — mi.\t-s instantly with water and ("oes not separate. 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