ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 AT 
 
 Cornell University 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SF 395.E92 
 
 Hogology. 
 
 3 1924 003 128 497 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003128497 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 PARTI 
 
 Suggestions and Better Methods of Profitably Bringing 
 
 Mr. Pig From Farrowing to Market, Moulded 
 
 Into a Readable Story 
 
 WRITTEN BY 
 
 ROBT J. EVANS 
 
 Secretary of the American Duroc Jersey Swine Breeders' Association and 
 Vice-President of the National Swine Growers' Association 
 
 PART II 
 
 One Hundred and One Fully Illustrated Descriptions of Hog-Lot 
 
 Devices and Accessories That Are in Practical Use on 
 
 Different Hog Farms in the United States 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THE JAMES J. DOTY PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 (Duroc Bulletin) (Swine World) 
 
5F 
 
 39S' 
 
 5^z 
 
 326070 
 
 Copyright, 1918, by 
 James J. Doty Publishing Co. 
 
PART I 
 
 THE HOG 
 
 From Breeding Time 
 to the Butcher's Knife 
 
 — ■■•^HM^— ■■— 
 
Introduction 
 
 There is no meat-making animal on the American farm 
 that matures so quickly or multiplies so rapidly as the hog. 
 There is no meat-producing business into which one can 
 embark so cheaply and which brings returns so quickly and 
 continuously as the growing of hogs. There is no branch 
 of livestock farming that offers such inducements at the 
 present time as does that of producing pork. 
 
 The best posted statisticians are authority for the state- 
 ment that never again in the history of the world will pork 
 be cheap. It is the poor man's meat, and as the martyred 
 Lincoln said: "God made more of them than any other 
 class." We have been living from hand to mouth as con- 
 cerns our meat, and the man who increases the supply of 
 pork not only builds a business and establishes an income 
 for himself and those dependent upon him, but at the same 
 time is a benefactor to his race. 
 
 Not all the vexatious and ever-increasing questions 
 about how to grow pork are answered in this little volume, 
 but recorded here in a story, a season's work with hogs, are 
 the experiences of many successful hog men, not in their 
 own words, but combined into a brief 12 months, as the 
 writer saw them worked out on the more than 500 hog 
 farms which he has visited in the past quarter of a century. 
 If the perusal of this little book will answer only one ques- 
 tion, or help only one of the many thousand merf in pork- 
 growing, the writer will feel more than repaid for transcrib- 
 ing these experiences of successful pork growers to the 
 printed pages of Part I of this book. 
 
 RoBT. J. Evans. 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Vast Industry 
 
 We believe there are but few men 
 connected with the hog-growing in- 
 dustry of the United States who 
 realize its vast importance and what 
 it represents, not only in dollars and 
 cents, buf in the comparative values 
 to the millions of people in foreign 
 countries as well as in our own that 
 depend upon the American hog prod- 
 ucts for their consumption. Very 
 close to one-half of the total value in 
 dollars and cents of the meat and 
 meat products slaughtered in the 
 abattoirs of the United States, is de- 
 rived from the hog. Three-fourths 
 of the world's international trade in 
 pork and pork products originates in 
 normal times in this great country of 
 ours and war time greatly increases 
 this per cent. The department of 
 agriculture is authority for the state- 
 ment that if we expect to provide 
 meat to foreign peoples, as well as 
 our own, every farmer must put forth 
 his best effort to produce more and 
 better hogs. (The government states 
 at this writing that the United States 
 is exporting two hundred millions 
 pounds of pork, per month, to Europe 
 and sixty million pounds of beef.) 
 
 For years this country depended 
 upon the cattle range for its meat, 
 but these ranges have passed away 
 and pork, from now on, will be the 
 main meat consumed by the working 
 class of this nation as well as of the 
 nations of the earth. 
 
 When we consider that this animal, 
 the lard hog of today, represented by 
 three or four outstanding breeds, has 
 been perfected and is American-bred 
 and American-improved and an Amer- 
 ican institution pure and simple, we 
 can realize how much the hog inter- 
 est means to the people of this nation. 
 
 More Important Than Cattle Industry 
 Livestock men and livestock inter- 
 ests generally are wont to give what 
 
 we feel is undue consideration to the 
 cattle business and the cattle inter- 
 ests, when the dollars invested and 
 the amount realized from the sale of 
 the two at the market show such a 
 little difference. Hog-growing in the 
 majority of cases has made cattle 
 feeding pay its way. Hog marketing 
 has paid off the mortgage, has in- 
 creased the value of the land, paid the 
 farms' running expenses and paid for 
 untold necessities and luxuries for the 
 American people. The most produc- 
 tive farms in this land of ours today 
 are the farms where a continued sys- 
 tem of hog feeding has been carried 
 on year after year. The hog returns 
 more fertilizer to the land than any 
 other meat-producing animal on the 
 farm, and run-down farms and lands 
 with thin soil can be built up and be 
 made productive through hog-grow- 
 ing operations, the owner securing his 
 profit from the hogs during the build- 
 ing process. 
 
 As it became necessary to till our 
 fields with up-to-date machinery, and 
 farm more economically on account 
 of the ever-increasing price of land, 
 so it has become necessary for us to 
 use a modern machine to grow our 
 pork. Such an "implement" is the 
 purebred hog, and he has been, 
 through many generations and many 
 decades, bred up and improved until 
 he can convert mpre grain and grass 
 into pounds of pork than the common 
 hog of yesterday. The improved hog 
 is not an animal that can live on less, 
 but one that can consume more and 
 convert a greater per cent of that 
 increased quantity into the commer- 
 cial article, pork. The hog makes 
 greater gains per hundred pounds of 
 concentrates than any other domes- 
 tic animal. He has no rival in con- 
 suming by-products, nor in his fat- 
 storing characteristics, and these 
 
 Nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 qualities have been increased in the 
 improved hog. 
 
 Many Ways for Profit 
 
 There are so many ways in which 
 profit has been and is being made 
 with hogs on the farms, ranches and 
 plantations of our country, that the 
 great wonder is and has been for 
 years why any farmer, whether he 
 be farming only a forty-acre farm 
 or one embracing many sections, 
 should leave out of his plans and 
 farming operations an animal that 
 makes good in so many ways. Hogs 
 fit into the modern scheme of farming 
 on every farm and from every stand- 
 point and are the best animal for the 
 two-fold purpose of raising meat and 
 money. Hog growing requires less 
 preparation, less expense, less equip- 
 ment and less capital than any other 
 branch of livestock raising, and the 
 capital can be turned into cash more 
 often in the year than in any other 
 line of farming. As a follower of a 
 bunch of feeding cattle he has often 
 made the only profit the cattle feed- 
 ers realized and has made it possible 
 for these feeders to continue their 
 business year after year, when the 
 price at the market and the price of 
 feed at the feeding boxes were all 
 out of proportion. While we believe 
 that a man can take hogs at the 
 present prices of feed (hogs at 17 and 
 ground feed ranging from $40 to $55 
 per ton) and market and make money 
 out of the transaction, yet in order 
 to profit from_ hog growing year in 
 and year out, it is necessary that the 
 hog-grower reduce the cost of pro- 
 duction as much as possible by per- 
 manent pasture and continuous for- 
 age crops. The hog is not a forage 
 animal, but pork produced by forage 
 and concentrate supplements is the 
 most profitable the grower can mar- 
 ket. 
 
 Hogs and Good Farming Go Hand in 
 Hand 
 
 There are several questions to be 
 considered when one contemplates 
 
 entering into the hog business. Lo- 
 cation, breed, size of herd to begin 
 with; whether we shall aim to pro- 
 duce breeding stock or grow entirely 
 for the pork barrel. A combination 
 of tlie two, selling a few good boars 
 and choice gilts to farmers and feed- 
 ers, and feeding the others out for the 
 market, having first selected our breed- 
 ing stock for the coming year, offers 
 the best and quickest and surest 
 money income from hogs. Nine- 
 tenths of the men who are known as 
 purebred swine breeders throughout 
 the United States would have more 
 money at the end of each year if they 
 had never attempted public sales of 
 seed stock, but put their time on the 
 marketing proposition. Ho^ builders, 
 like poets are born, not made, and it 
 falls to the fortune of but compara- 
 tively few men to have inherited the 
 requisites of a constructive breeder of 
 live stock. Such work must fall to 
 these few and it is a pioneer's work. 
 It is less likely to result in an accu- 
 mulated competence than if the less 
 risky plan of feeding for market is 
 followed. But there is a fascination 
 about the work of breed building that 
 holds the breeder to his tedious task, 
 and many have persisted in their 
 work, and failed in receiving remu- 
 neration commensurate with the cost 
 of continuing, but felt a pride in the 
 far-reaching results that they knew 
 would come from even slight im- 
 provement of the breed with which 
 their life work seemed to be aligned. 
 We believe many men have gone into 
 the business with absolutely no prep- 
 aration, not any intelligent thought. 
 This is as foolish as spending too, 
 much money for buildings and seed 
 stock. There is a happy medium in 
 this as in other enterprises and the 
 wise man adopts this middle path, 
 building and buying only the neces- 
 sary equipments and seed stock, pay- 
 ing high prices if need be for prop- 
 erly bred animals. 
 
 In_ these days of intensive living 
 and intensive production, the man who 
 
 Ten 
 
PART I 
 
 spends his time and money in pro- 
 ducing pork from scrub hogs is worse 
 than a farmer who would use the 
 crooked stick plow of the Oriental 
 farmer on his modern farm in the 
 corn belt. Cross-breeding of two or 
 more breeds of pure bred hogs has 
 been said to produce better feeders 
 than pure breds of any certain breed, 
 but there are no well founded facts 
 or figures on which to base these as- 
 sertions. 
 
 The pure bred hog of a particular 
 breed comes to the market in car- 
 loads of even color, conformation and 
 common characteristics. These are 
 the loads that bring the top prices. 
 The smoothness, color and conforma- 
 tion have been stamped upon the 
 pure bred and bred into his blood 
 lines until he reproduces regularly 
 and evenly and from such breeding 
 stock comes the high priced hogs of 
 each day's receipts at the market cen- 
 ters if they come to the lots properly 
 bred and developed. 
 
 Whether you engage in the busi- 
 ness for pork growing alone, a busi- 
 ness which is probably the_ most 
 profitable on the least expensive in- 
 vestment, and which has netted the 
 farmers of our country more dollars 
 than any one branch of live stock 
 business known today, or whether 
 you enter the profession of supplying 
 seed stock to the farmer and feeder, 
 the next largest branch of the hog 
 business, you are sure of more and 
 steadier profit than from any of your 
 farm operations, investment, time and 
 labor considered.- While_ the two 
 branches of the hog business men- 
 tioned above, pork growing and sup- 
 plying the seed stock represent more 
 than 90% of those engaged in the hog 
 business, yet there is a small percent 
 of hog growers who are not only 
 making good ptofit, but are enjoying 
 a bounteous income from the sale of 
 home-grown and home-cured meats, 
 home-made sausage, and other prod- 
 ucts. The advantages of this Jatter 
 method of money from hogs is the 
 
 steady returns, quickness of profit, 
 and the ability to turn small capital 
 several times a year. While only a 
 few locations are adapted to carrying 
 on large enterprises of this latter 
 method of turning pork to profit, 
 there is scarcely a county in the 
 United States but which some part 
 can be readily adapted to producing 
 pork. 
 
 Small Capital Sometimes a Blessing 
 
 There are a good many ways of 
 going into the hog business, all of 
 them easy enough if sufficient cap- 
 ital is at hand, but the great army 
 of people who will do the best with 
 hogs and make the most money, are 
 short on the one thing that makes 
 beginning easy — capital. This might 
 seem a serious handicap, but it us- 
 ually proves a blessing. One will go 
 in by degrees, will not start with so 
 many head as if capital were ready 
 at hand. Thus experience is gained as 
 you go along and you also gain con- 
 fidence and learn the ways of buying 
 and the right kind to buy and you 
 have less to undo. 
 
 If you start in the spring two or 
 ■three brood sows due to farrow in 
 late March or April producing litters 
 from good big boned, well bred boars, 
 will be enough foundation, but if the 
 fall of the year is chosen, a half 
 dozen gilts eight or nine months old 
 of same general type, and a boar, 
 either a pig or a yearling. A good 
 thrifty March pig will be old enough 
 to mate to these in November, for the 
 next spring farrow. Don't get the 
 notion that you can't start with a 
 less number than mentioned. One 
 good sow in the spring or a trio in 
 fall, two gilts and a boar, might be 
 enough. _ This will depend on your 
 preparation for feeding and housing. 
 
 Care Thru Gestation Period 
 
 In buying bred sows be sure to find 
 out how they have been fed and cared 
 for; be sure that they are not too fat 
 and that they have not been fatted on 
 
 Eleven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 too much corn or heating feed. Get 
 them from sires and dams of good 
 size and good breeding. A "pedi- 
 greed scrub" is a curse to any man 
 in the hog business. After these 
 sows reach your place give them 
 proper care and housing. It is a 
 trying time for the dam for she is 
 not only laying in a supply of flesh 
 to help furnish milk to her future lit- 
 ter, but is building the frame of the 
 pigs in that litter. Good concen- 
 trated feed, plenty of exercise, pure 
 water is necessary and the extra care 
 will be more than doubly repaid in 
 the coming litter. Too much corn 
 makes weak litters and unsatisfactory 
 results. Separated milk is a very good 
 feed for the sow during gestation as 
 it will encourage milk secretion. The 
 best rations for the sow during the 
 winter months is slop made of equal 
 parts of ground oats and wheat mid- 
 dlings and a small quantity of corn 
 ground with the other two grains. If 
 the weather remains severe for any 
 length of time the corn can be in- 
 creased for it will assist in k;eeping 
 up the heat. Constipation must be 
 avoided. It is well to have the feed- 
 ing pen a good ways from the sleep- 
 ing quarters so the sows will get ex- 
 ercise in going back and forth. As 
 farrowing time approaches keep the 
 bowels regular by using a half pound 
 of oil meal daily. 
 
 Warm quarters in which the sows 
 can farrow must be provided. Later 
 on an individual cot such as shown 
 elsewhere in this book is all that is 
 needed, but at farrowing time, espe- 
 cially in our colder climates, a box 
 stall in the barn or a community 
 house with farrowing pens is needed. 
 Look out for cold draughts on the 
 young pigs. It takes a mighty little 
 sudden change to knock Mr. Pig out 
 in his first day or so. 
 
 At least twenty-four hours prior to 
 farrowing time the sow's feed must be 
 cut down to a little thin slop. Give 
 only fresh water for at least two days 
 after farrowing. Many good sows 
 
 and money-making litters have been 
 ruined by the false notion that the 
 sow needs feed as soon as she is done 
 farrowing. Nature has been prepar- 
 ing for this period and has stored up 
 feed in her system in just such a form 
 as is needed by the mother and off- 
 spring. 
 
 Attention at Farrowing Time 
 
 How essential it is to buy from ab- 
 solutely reliable breeders will be 
 thoroughly realized by the new hog 
 man if sows farrow before time desig- 
 nated by the seller. You may be off 
 your guard and the whole litter be 
 lost. Continual attention at farrow- 
 ing time pays a hundred fold. If the 
 weather is very chilly, take each pig 
 away from the sow as soon as far- 
 rowed and put in a basket or bucket, 
 having placed in the bottom of it a 
 jug of warm water or a hot brick 
 with a piece of blanket over it. Keep 
 them here until the sow is through 
 farrowing and then let them get their 
 first meal. If you can get them filled 
 with the first draught of the life-sus- 
 taining fluid of the young mother, 
 your battle is half won. Put them 
 back in the basket especially if the 
 weather stays cold or the sow is rest- 
 less. Let them suckle every two 
 hours night and day. You may need 
 your sleep, but if you want full profits 
 out of the sow and litter you can 
 well afford to invest in an alarm clock 
 and attend to your duties as wet nurse 
 bi-hourly the first and second nights 
 at least. 
 
 Wherever you have the sow farrow 
 provide good bedding, not a big lot 
 of straw, but pine shavings if possible 
 or chopped straw. If too much bed- 
 ding is given the pigs get lost and 
 the sow will trample them. Also pro- 
 vide stall or pen with guards, 2 by 4s, 
 supported eight inches from the floor 
 of farrowing pen and six or eight 
 inches from the wall. Instead of lay- 
 ing against the wall of the pen and 
 squeezing the life out of her offspring, 
 her body is held away from the wall 
 
 Twelve 
 
PART I 
 
 by these 8 by 4s and the youngest can 
 get behind the guard, and you will 
 see them crawling around as lively 
 as ever towards the "dinner side" of 
 the mother. 
 
 Close watch of the sow's action will 
 be sufficient indication as to when you 
 can safely trust her with the entire 
 care of her new family and it is some 
 care. A doctor, a nurse, and the 
 whole family (no matter how many 
 it contains) and often nearly all the 
 neighbor's family are necessary to get 
 one little human baby started half 
 right on his journey through life, yet 
 we expect the dumb brute of a sow 
 to care for from eight to a dozen 
 without half the attention of one per- 
 son. If she fails we not only curse 
 her, but the whole porcine race. 
 (Don't come to the conclusion from 
 this statement that I am comparing 
 the value of one little helpless new 
 human to that of a new family of 
 pigs. Nothing of the kind. But if 
 we are going to do a thing, let's give 
 it our best attention.) 
 
 Caution Needed After Sow Has 
 Farrowed 
 
 Trouble after farrowing time with 
 the sow or with the litter comes from 
 one or more of three things: wet bed- 
 ding, too much feed and cold 
 draughts. The first will make sore 
 teats, put the sow out of condition, 
 chill her, chill the pigs and often 
 makes the tails of the pigs sore. Over 
 feed causes fever in the sow's udder 
 and gives the pigs scours^ a disease 
 often hard to check and a complaint 
 that often undoes all you have done. 
 Cold draughts start pneumonia, a dis- 
 ease easily contracted by the hog. 
 Don't get the sow into full feed until 
 the pigs are at least a week old, ten 
 days is better. Keep her on , thin 
 middling slop, possibly an ear of corn 
 and some pure water, increasing the 
 consistency of the slop each day, un- 
 til at the end of the period you have 
 her relishing a full meal of thick slop. 
 
 At birth, pigs have four very sharp 
 
 teeth wiiich often give the dam and 
 their litter mates a lot of trouble. 
 Take a pair of nippers and pinch 
 these off. If you pick up Master 
 Piggy by the neck and force his 
 mouth open these will easily be seen 
 and easily nipped off. Do not pull 
 them. This often saves the udder and 
 the sore mouths of the pigs, for it is 
 these' sharp teeth that they use in 
 fighting each other away from a teat. 
 It won't be many days after far- 
 rowing time until the sow and pigs 
 must be out somewhere to get exer- 
 cise. The single house now comes 
 into play and no matter if the weather 
 is a little cold, a cot set facing south 
 and protected by straw, fodder or 
 blankets, will prove sufficient protec- 
 tion, unless you live in the North or 
 north central part of the corn belt, 
 and select early March or late Feb- 
 ruary for farrowing. These dates 
 should be entirely avoided by the be- 
 ginner unless he is amply equipped 
 with modern steam or stove-heated 
 community houses and often then the 
 loss of pigs cuts the profit to almost 
 nothing. 
 
 Get Sow on Green Diet 
 
 Have the houses or cots in half or 
 one-acre lots where some green stuff 
 will be growing by the time the pigs 
 are old enough to get out and follow 
 the mother. Oats, rye or barley, blue 
 grass or clover patches. Alfalfa is 
 still better. The earlier the sow can 
 be put onto a partial green diet the 
 faster she will bring her litter. There 
 is little danger of scours in the pigs 
 from this green feed. It more often 
 comes from ground or condensed 
 feed, or sudden changes of feed. 
 
 Every day after the pigs are two 
 days old, they should be forced to 
 exercise, even if you have to gather 
 them in a basket and dump them out 
 in the barn driveway. Exercise and 
 sunshine spell success with pigs. 
 These are the two great reasons we 
 advise the new man to shun early 
 farrowing- dates. 
 
 Thirteen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 If the pigs do not seem to be thriv- 
 ing, look for the cause. Occasionally 
 a good looking, thrifty appearing sow 
 fails to produce enough milk. If 
 other conditions are right, increase 
 her feed faster than advised above. 
 Shorts or middlings mixed with sep- 
 arated milk will help. For the first 
 four weeks, all crowding of the 
 growth of the pigs must be done by 
 extra good care and feed for the sow. 
 Feed her milk producing feeds, mid- 
 dlings, shorts, or Red-dog flour. 
 Twenty pounds of shorts with ten of 
 cornmeal and the same of bran with 
 3J^ parts of tankage, makes a good 
 mixture. 
 
 Com Not a Good Single Diet 
 
 Let me say here that corn is the 
 standard hog feed in any climate and 
 we believe that much of the disease 
 that attacks the herd comes from in- 
 digestion caused by something for- 
 eign in the mill feeds bought today. 
 But corn as a single diet is out of the 
 question with the brood sow while 
 carrying her litter or nui-sing the lit- 
 ter. If the sow has farrowed at a 
 time that will allow her to be out 
 on some green growing crop, when 
 the pigs are about ten days old, your 
 feeding proposition will be greatly 
 simplified, for the pigs will soon help 
 themselves and the sow will produce 
 more milk from the right kind of for- 
 age than from dry feed. Winter rye, 
 oats or barley will answer the pur- 
 pose and I believe a two-fold object 
 will be accomplished if every brood 
 sow lot is plowed up in the fall and 
 sown in rye or other small grain. 
 The pens and runs will be made more 
 sanitary and the sow will have forage 
 when she needs it the worst. Blue 
 grass will help some, but is late in 
 starting in northern pastures. 
 
 One other thing must be avoided 
 in unweaned pigs and that is 
 "thumps." This disease comes from 
 too little exercise and sunshine and 
 too much feed. Cut the sow's feed 
 at once and see that the pigs take 
 
 exercise regularly. Dust in pen causes 
 bad cough, but we find no record of 
 it causing thumps. Thumps are 
 caused by too much fat around the 
 heart and only a diet and exercise 
 will cure it. 
 
 Feed the Yoimg Pigs 
 
 At about three weeks of age the 
 pigs ought to be fed a little by them- 
 selves. Many good breeders continue 
 to feed big and little together, but 
 we are absolutely sure that the extra 
 care it takes to have a little run where 
 the pigs can eat a little thin slop or 
 pick up shelled corn scattered around, 
 will more than repay and they will do 
 much better and remain more even in 
 growth. Soak the shelled corn if you 
 will, but I always thought the little 
 fellows enjoyed the hard corn and 
 they surely act like they liked to hear 
 it crunch under their sharp teeth. 
 Separated milk and shorts make a 
 good slop, and a little tankage can 
 be mixed with it for pigs must have 
 more bone-making material than is 
 common in most feeds if we are to 
 have them grow right. Pigs increase 
 in weight a greater percent during 
 their third to sixth week than during 
 any period of their lives if properly 
 fed, and if we want right results we 
 must get them proper diet. Clover 
 pastures, or alfalfa will save an abun- 
 dant lot of concentrated feeds, and 
 either of these is an almost balanced 
 ration for pigs. Government Bulle- 
 tin 215 finds that pigs weighing 30 to 
 60 pounds gained 100 pounds each in 
 the season when turned on alfalfa. 
 At the Kansas Station pigs were 
 given corn in addition and after al- 
 lowing for corn, the alfalfa pasture 
 returned 776 pounds of pork per acre. 
 
 Beware of too much thin slop. Pigs 
 will gorge themselves on this and lay 
 down and wait to be fed again. They 
 soon become "pot-bellied" and dumpy. 
 Shelled corn and forage and tankage 
 is best. 
 
 Forage Crop Easily Supplied 
 A forage crop that is easily sup- 
 
 Fourteen 
 
PART I 
 
 plied is an acre or two of rape and 
 it has been found that less grain is 
 required to produce 100 pounds of 
 growth on rape than is required when 
 pigs are on alfalfa. Rape and oats 
 mixed, sown in our northern climates 
 about April 10th, will furnish more 
 good feed per acre for hogs than any- 
 thing you can sow. The best bunch 
 of spring pigs I ever recollect seeing 
 was a lot that had alfalfa pasture and 
 shelled corn. The alfalfa was divided 
 into two even lots, and as soon as the 
 tops were fairly well hipped off of 
 one lot, they were turned into the 
 other lot, the former being mown and 
 allowed to get a good start again 
 while the porkers were "trimming" 
 the other field. 
 
 Weaning Time Is Precsirious Period 
 
 One of the most precarious times 
 in the life of the pig is weaning time, 
 unless proper care has been used in 
 bringing him to a point where he de- 
 pends only in a small measure on the 
 mother's milk. Many breeders follow 
 the plan of allowing the sow to wean 
 them, but if the pig is carried as rap- 
 idly as he ought to be for eight or 
 nine weeks, the sow is being weak- 
 ened for her future litter, her mating 
 time for that future litter is being de- 
 layed, and the pig is benefited but 
 little. Some of the most successful 
 hog raisers we know commence at 
 the time the little fellow is two or 
 three weeks old, to throw out a little 
 shelled corn scattered where they can 
 pick it up undisturbed, once _ a day. 
 At another meal, separated milk in a 
 trough shut away from older hogs. 
 Added to this, forage of clover, al- 
 falfa, fall rye, or rape, and they will 
 soon be looking out for a good share 
 of what they consume. (Care must 
 be taken to take the foam off the sep- 
 arated milk as there is a gas in this 
 that is noisonous to Mr. Pig.) Mix 
 in a little middlings or shorts, grad- 
 ually thickening their slops as they 
 grow older. In addition to these the 
 pig should have access to some salted 
 
 charcoal, fine coal, a little sulphur, 
 air-slaked lime and pulverized copper. 
 Keep the skin of Mr. Pig free from 
 lice and mites, for feed is high and 
 you can ill afford to dish it out to a 
 colony of hog lice. Use crude oil 
 with a brush, or any of the well 
 known coal tar emulsions. Most of 
 these must be greatly reduced by the 
 addition of water. Don't use to 
 strong. Where a large number of 
 hogs and pigs are being raised a dip- 
 ping tank will be the surest and 
 easiest plan, especially if you are 
 raising them in our southern climate, 
 where frequent dipping is necessary 
 to keep the lice and mites down. 
 They can be driven through the dip- 
 ping tank in a few minutes and you 
 will be sure every part of the body 
 is covered with the killer. Rubbing 
 posts are a bi^ help and if you don't 
 care to invest in one, wrap an old 
 gunny sack around a post in the pig 
 lot, saturate it with crude oil, and see 
 how quickly they learn what it is for 
 and what it will do. They will apply 
 the oil in the right place without any 
 effort on your part. 
 
 Don't Expect Too Much of the Sow 
 
 As an example of what is exacted 
 of a brood sow during the eight or 
 nine weeks of suckling a litter, note 
 the result of an experiment carried 
 on by Henry (Wisconsin) where a 
 litter of eight pigs averaging approx- 
 imately three pounds May 84th (at 
 birth) gained by Aug. 2 an average 
 of 433 pounds, or a total of about 345 
 pounds and in the meantime this sow 
 weighing at the beginning 333 pounds 
 lost 39 pounds. Every bit of feed 
 consumed and 89 pounds of the sow's 
 own weight went towards the pigs' 
 gains. The right kind of a brood sow 
 will lose flesh when suckling in spite 
 of the amount of feed given. 
 
 Keep the Weanlings Growing 
 
 Care of the pig for 60 days after 
 weaning time will have more to do 
 with your ultimate profit from the 
 
 Fifteen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 business than the care through any- 
 other period. If you can keep them 
 on slightly increasing rations, with 
 continued good appetite satisfied with 
 properly balanced feed, your success 
 is assured. There are so many things 
 that befall "Piggy" in these days that 
 continual care is necessary. If you 
 are raising a good many, care must 
 be taken to have them sorted into 
 lots of different sizes and ages, so 
 larger ones will not rob the back- 
 ward ones. Be sure their beds and 
 nests are cleaned free from dust, lice 
 and mites. Crude oil sprinkled over 
 the dirt floors will answer two pur- 
 poses — lay the dust and kill germs. 
 Pigs must be frequently dipped in 
 some of the coal tar dips or sprinkled 
 with some lotion of crude oil. Lime 
 sprinkled over walls of the pens will 
 help. It is so common to see a bunch 
 of pigs driven out of a dusty pen 
 coughing and kicking up a cloud, and 
 we often wonder they are not all sick. 
 
 Sudden change of feed or cold, 
 damp weather may bring on scours, 
 another dire enemy of the growing 
 pig. Shut oflf the feed and give small 
 physic, followed later by light feed 
 on thin slop with some lime water 
 mixed with it, once a day. If the 
 pigs have been taught when suckling 
 to eat the same feeds that will be 
 used in continuing their growth, you 
 will have little trouble unless you at- 
 tempt to increase too rapidly. They 
 should be fed at least three times a 
 day, giving them only what they will 
 readily clean up. No feed should be 
 left in the trough during summer 
 months for them to eat later. It soon 
 sours and sour feeds will put your 
 pigs oflf feed quicker than anything 
 that can happen to them. Many feed- 
 ers follow the plan of mixing one feed 
 a head, but I very much doubt the 
 advisability of this unless it is in the 
 matter of soaking shell corn for them, 
 a plan which many follow with good 
 success. 
 
 If you will keep ever in mind the 
 fact that the pig's stomach more 
 
 nearly resembles the human stomach 
 than that of any other animal, and 
 is adversely affected by the same 
 things that cause the human to go 
 "oflf his feed" you will be able to fig- 
 ure out some of the reasons why the 
 pig isn't doing well, and you will also 
 be able to avoid many cases of indi- 
 gestion which delay the growth of 
 the pig. Neutritis is a common com- 
 plaint among well fed pigs an-d is 
 often taken for an attack of cholera, 
 but is only an aggravated case of in- 
 digestion. 
 
 Grow Some Clovers 
 
 Alfalfa or red clover pastures will 
 be a wonderful help in bringing these 
 pigs to maturity in right condition, 
 and the oft-used expression "pigs in 
 clover" is more than a pretty sound- 
 ing phrase for it helps with the year's 
 profit. One of the best posted hog 
 men of my acquaintances prefers red 
 clover to alfalfa for his pigs. He 
 raises both hogs and sheep and buys 
 alfalfa hay for his sheep and grows 
 clover for his pigs. There are other 
 crops not so good, but much more 
 quickly grown, such as rape, soy 
 beans, cowpeas and peanuts. Rape 
 and oats sown the first week of April 
 will be ready for the pigs by the first 
 of May or a little later and a couple 
 of acres of these will carry the pigs 
 along nicely for some weeks if sup- 
 plemented with slops and a little corn. 
 Turn them on rape a little while at a 
 time at first, as often the rape will 
 aflEect the skin. Keep them off of it 
 also for a few hours after rain and 
 in early morning after a heavy dew. 
 This mixed pasture is excellent also 
 for older hogs and keeps their system 
 in good working condition. Dwarf 
 essex rape is probably the best va- 
 riety and it is wonderful how much 
 pasture can be grown in an acre or 
 two of this. It furnishes green feed 
 in July and August, just when it is 
 most needed. 
 
 Shade must be provided for the 
 youngsters during the summer and 
 
 Sixteen 
 
PART I 
 
 either a wooded lot or artificial shade 
 will answer. If there are no trees in 
 the lot, then build a low shed made 
 of short stout posts sticking three 
 feet above the ground, covered either 
 with brush and some straw or with 
 boards, all four sides being left open. 
 Keep the ground under the sheds 
 sprinkled down with crude oil to 
 avoid dust and its bad results. 
 
 Need Bone-Making Material 
 
 Most of the feeds used for grow- 
 ing pigs are lacking in mineral mat- 
 ter and this must be supplied by tank- 
 age and other bone-forming feeds. 
 Milk is the greatest feed of them all 
 for this purpose, but if little or no 
 milk is to be had, then tankage must 
 take its place. A mixture of other 
 mineral matter such as rock phos- 
 phate, slacked lime, charcoal, using 
 a little salt to make it palatable, 
 should be kept in a trough or self- 
 feeder. One of the best conditioners 
 for pigs or grown hogs can usually 
 be made right on the farm where ear 
 corn is fed. Rake the dry cobs in 
 feed lot, into a pile and set them afire, 
 letting them burn until the pile is a 
 mass of red coals, then put out the 
 fire with a sprinkler of water, let 
 them cool, sprinkle with salt and the 
 pigs will go for this like it was the 
 choicest morsel. 
 
 One of the most essential things for 
 growing pigs and one of the things 
 most neglected, and it is without a 
 doubt, the cheapest thing that we 
 could get for them; is plenty of fresh 
 water. Whether by patent watering 
 tank of some kind, or poured by hand 
 in their troughs, they should have all 
 they can drink. A pig's body is about 
 80 per cent water and the more we 
 can give the pig to drink, the more 
 he will grow and the more likely he 
 is to keep in good condition. 
 
 In addition to shade furnished for 
 the pigs, we should if possible have 
 a bath for them in the summer time. 
 A hog does not perspire and hot 
 weather affects him more than most 
 
 any other domestic animal, and a 
 cooling bath in heated season is a 
 big help. This can readily be made 
 ■ of cement. 
 
 An excellent feed for the growing 
 pigs, can be made with two parts of 
 middling or corn meal or ground bar- 
 ley, mixed with skimmed or separated 
 milk. If this is too rich add bran, 
 making more bulk to the mixture. 
 
 One of the best lots of pigs I have 
 seen recently were brought along 
 after .weaning time with corn, oats 
 and wheat ground in equal parts 
 mixed into a slop with water, but the 
 pigs in addition had separated milk 
 twice a day. 
 
 Worms the Pigs Worst Enemy 
 
 Of all the enemies to the growing 
 pig, the intestine worm is the most 
 detrimental and most often found 
 working against the proper growth 
 of the pig. In picking up his daily 
 feed the eggs of the female which 
 have passed out with the extrement 
 of other pigs are taken up and 
 hatched in the intestines. These mul- 
 tiply rapidly and are soon sapping the 
 vitality of the growing youngster. 
 Yards and lots should be cleaned up 
 often and all stagnant water drained 
 off. A mixture of charcoal and salt 
 or charcoal, wood ashes and salt will 
 keep the common round worm under 
 submission. But they often flourish 
 and multiply so rapidly as to pack 
 the intestines. Any worm powder 
 that contains the proper amount of 
 Santonin or German worm seed will 
 do the work. No matter what you 
 are using for expelling the worms, 
 it must be given after the pig has 
 been shut up without feed for a few 
 hours, then followed with a good 
 physic. As there are any number of 
 good worm powders on the market 
 properly made and sold with direc- 
 tions how to use them, it is fully as 
 cheap and much easier to keep a sup- 
 ply of one of these on hand for fre- 
 quent use in cleaning out the worms 
 from pigs. A postal card to the De- 
 
 Sevenfeen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 partment of Agriculture will give you 
 a list of these that have stood the 
 Government test and usually this fact 
 vi?ill be found in the literature of the 
 company which compounds the medi- 
 cine. Clean quarters and the mixture 
 mentioned above kept at hand for 
 them will often ward off these pests 
 and save delay in the growth of your 
 pigs. A good conditioner at least 
 once a week will keep their appetites 
 sharpened to the right degree. 
 
 Essential to Keep Pigs Crowing 
 
 It will be the main business of the 
 hog grower from this time to market- 
 ing time to keep the animals putting 
 on pounds every day. This can be 
 done with forage, corn and mill feeds. 
 One of the main things is to keep the 
 animal in the best of physical condi- 
 tion, and as new corn comes in start 
 to feed this very slowly, as it often 
 upsets the digestive apparatus of the 
 pigs and they go off feed and often 
 develop severe indigestion and delays 
 their growth and finish. Cutting a 
 few stacks and throwing over into 
 their pasture is a good way to start 
 them. New oats in the sheaf thrown 
 over to them is an excellent feed and 
 keeps them busy picking this and they 
 get considerable of the green straw 
 while rooting out and devouring the 
 oats. As the corn crop comes nearer 
 maturity a portion of it fenced off and 
 the crop of pigs turned in will bring 
 some mighty good results. Experi- 
 ments tried by not only the Experi- 
 ment Stations and Colleges, but by 
 practical farmers and feeders through- 
 out the corn belt have demonstrated 
 that this is one of the best ways to 
 finish the crop of pigs for the mar- 
 ket and finish them with as little 
 labor as possible. At the same time 
 it distributes over the ground the en- 
 riching fertilizer left by the hog in 
 feeding, and not only saves corn husk- 
 ing and hog feeding, but it saves the 
 hauling of manure from the hog lots. 
 In this time of shortage of labor there 
 isn't any plan that recommends itself 
 
 to the feeder as thoroughly as does 
 the practice of hogging down corn. 
 Less of the corn is wasted than in 
 any other way of gathering it. They 
 wiir not pull down more than they 
 will eat, and unless the fields are ex- 
 tremely soft and muddy they will 
 tramp very little of it under foot. 
 
 Select Choice Gilts for Breeding 
 
 Before putting the pig crop into 
 the corn fields, it will be well for you 
 to select the gilts which you expect 
 to retain to mate for your next 
 spring's crop of pigs. These should 
 be kept on a pasture and given only 
 a little of the corn, as you will not 
 want them so fat in late October and 
 early November as the crop of pigs 
 yo.u are getting ready to market. They 
 should have some middlings along 
 with the corn and be kept on the 
 green stuff as late in the fall as it is 
 growing. Select the largest, stretch- 
 iest, smoothest gilts out of the bunch 
 to save to mate for your next spring's 
 crop. By this method you can al- 
 ways keep the size of your breeding 
 animals from getting smaller and can 
 retain the stretch and height neces- 
 sary for good brood sows. The farm- 
 ers and feeders as a rule do not keep 
 gilts the second year, but they use 
 spring gilts to breed in the fall for 
 their next spring crop. Breeders ot 
 pure bred hogs, however, do not fol- 
 low that plan, but select a few of 
 the top gilts and add to their yearl- 
 ings and aged sows, keeping the best 
 of all of them to produce their pigs 
 for the next year, getting rid of the 
 sows -of four or five years of age 
 through the market route. As a rule 
 the feeder markets his sows after they 
 have rais'ja and weaned their spring 
 pigs and S'^nds tbem over the icales 
 in late Juno or early July, when the 
 prices are usually at the highest 
 points of the year. From a money 
 making standpoint this may be good 
 business, but in keepina: up the 
 stretch an'l size and vigor if the herd 
 and the increase of profit by large 
 
 Eighteen 
 
PART I 
 
 litters, it is not as good a plan as the 
 one adopted by breeders who retain 
 the best of their yearling sows. As 
 a rule aged sows will farrow and 
 raise two or three more pigs to a lit- 
 ter than a young gilt. She will us- 
 ually impart to them more vigor if 
 she is in the right condition when 
 mated and fed correctly during preg- 
 nancy. The improvement or deteri- 
 oration of your herd depends entirely 
 on your selection of these sows and 
 the boar to which you mate them for 
 the next spring crop and it is a time 
 when you need to use your good 
 judgment and all care at your com- 
 mand, and it will take more than the 
 knowledge you have gained during 
 the year's experience to select gilts 
 which will produce the best litters for 
 you during the coming year. These 
 gilts or sows should not- be fat when 
 they are mated for the next spring 
 litter, but they should be just begin- 
 ning to increase in weight so that 
 their reproductive organs will be in 
 the best possible condition. From 
 mating time on their feed should be 
 increased slightly to take care of the 
 excess of nourishment needed for the 
 litter that is to come and their feed 
 should be increased very graduallyup 
 to within a few days of farrowing 
 time. Either, select one of the strong- 
 est, best boned, stretchiest boars of 
 your spring crop to mate with these 
 sows (not too closely akin), or buy 
 a boar, either a spring boar or a fall 
 yearling, from some breeder of rep- 
 utation and buy him from a family 
 of excellent breeding and of good 
 type and one whose dams are noted 
 for large litters. You will be able by 
 this kind of selection to increase the 
 litters in your sows and gain the ad- 
 ditional profit. Personally I would 
 advise a fall yearling boar on account 
 of the extra strength and vigor that 
 he can impart to the litter, especially 
 if you have 13 or 15 sows to mate. 
 One of the best crops of spring pigs 
 I have ever seen was a lot of 150 pigs 
 sired by a fall yearling boar. This 
 
 man had bought two boars to use on 
 these sows, 18 of them, but at the last 
 minute just before mating time, one 
 boar met with an accident which left 
 the breeder with only the one boar. 
 Fortunately these sows came in heat 
 within a few days of each other and 
 more fortunately he had this strong 
 fall boar and mated two of them a 
 day and sometiibes three, until the 
 eighteen were bred. They raised him 
 150 spring pigs, and in the following 
 fall they looked like they had been 
 produced from one dam. Pigs of this 
 kind, fed out, going to the market are 
 most generally the market toppers. 
 It takes no more feed; usually less, 
 but the evenness with which they de- 
 velop makes the crop of pigs easy to 
 handle and makes an additional profit 
 at the market point in the fall. If 
 this man had tried to use a boar of 
 spring farrow on the sows he would 
 have secured some very poor litters 
 and an uneven bunch of pigs from 
 breeding so many within such a short 
 time, and result would have been in 
 most cases disappointing. 
 
 CONCLUSION: 
 
 For twenty-five years I have been 
 answering questions of the new hog 
 men going into the business of pro- 
 ducing and developing pure bred ani- 
 mals and one of the most numerous 
 questions I have had asked is this: 
 Where can I find a book that will tell 
 me all about hog raising? There is 
 but one answer to this question. That 
 book has not been written. I have 
 tried in this little story to present 
 some of the difficulties and- guide the 
 new hog men around some of the pit- 
 falls that come to the person who 
 takes up the work of establishing a 
 herd and producing pork hogs or rais- 
 ing to supply the breeding stock for 
 the farmer and feeder. 
 
 Only a small portion of the ques- 
 tions that come up in the hog man's 
 work are answered here, but I have 
 tried to put the story in readable form 
 
 Nineteen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 so that those under whose eyes it 
 may fall can not only read as they 
 run or rather go on with their work, 
 
 but can understand the simple Eng- 
 lish in which I have tried to express 
 myself. 
 
 Hints on Hog Husbandry 
 
 Hogs need water both winter and without any grain. They should be 
 
 summer, especially plenty of it fresh pushed along every day with a little 
 
 and clean in the summer time. Make grain until the fall grazing crops are 
 
 some arrangement to have the chill --eady 
 
 taken off the water which you give * Although peanuts, soy beans or 
 
 them to drmk in the winter time. ^^j^^^ ^^^^^ -^ ^j^^ 5^^,^!^ ^^^ l^^t;. 
 
 evfrt^ hTgs" o^n'^hl' ri^heTp'a^tu^re' ^f- -rn and other feeds high priced, 
 
 As a rule two and five-tenths pounds >* will pay to feed some feed to sup- 
 
 of grain to each 100 pounds of live Ply the carbo-hydrate needed while 
 
 weight will take care of them where the hogs are grazing on these crops. 
 
 there is an abundance of pasture. A balanced ration is the one that 
 
 Without the pasture three to four counts most. 
 
 pounds of grain to 100 pounds of live The fcllowing is recommended by 
 
 weight will be necessary. the Govirnment as a gooo tonic to 
 
 North Platte, Nebraska Experi- supply mineral matter to the hogs 
 
 ment Station, proved in making ex- system. piss9lye coperas in hot 
 
 periments on the rations for fattening water and sprinkle over the mixture, 
 hogs that concentrated feeds added to 
 
 corn and chopped alfalfa hay, 95 parts Coperas 2 pounds 
 
 corn, 5 parts tankage and alfalfa in Slacked hme 4 pounds 
 
 rack, showed up first place in the con- Wood ashes 1 bushel 
 
 elusion of the experiments. Corn and Sulphur 4 pounds 
 
 tankage without alfalfa showed sec- Salt 8 pounds 
 
 ond. Ground corn 90, oil meal 10 Fine charcoal 1 bushel 
 
 parts was third in the experiment. 
 
 The advantage of permanent pas- 
 
 tures over ordinary forage crops is Be ready for the early fall market, 
 
 the continuance of growth from The spring pigs must be fed a heavier 
 
 spring until late fall. Either a few grain ration than pigs intended for 
 
 hogs may be grazed during the whole the winter market or for breeding 
 
 season if left until after it has made stock. 
 
 a good growth or a large herd may, 
 
 be pastured on it for a short time. pjgg q„ pasture usually get enough 
 
 An acre of rape and oats ought to exercise. 1 hey should have a clean, 
 
 support during the season about three well-protected shelter, well ventilated. 
 
 sows and eighteen spring pigs on the • 
 
 assumption that a fairly heavy grain . „ . , 
 ration is fed and that the oats and Pigs are troubled occasionally with 
 rape are given a good start. Rape sore mouth, canker of mouth, bull 
 and oats make one of the best tern- nose, "snufHes," etc. This is an in- 
 porary hog pasture mixtures. fectious disease due to a germ get- 
 Pork cannot be produced econom- ting into a wound in a pig's mouth, 
 ically if you let weanling pigs come Dip the pig's head into a solution of 
 along on pasture during the summer one ounce of permanganate of potash 
 
 Twenty 
 
PART I 
 
 to a gallon of water every day for a 
 week or more. 
 
 Corn plus alfalfa for the winter 
 brood sow will be found as good a 
 ration as can be devised by the hog 
 grower Common salt should be al- 
 lowed to be at hand for free access. 
 
 Provide plenty of shade. If the 
 hog lot does not contain plenty of 
 natural shade, then ailihcial should be 
 supplied. 
 
 Keep pools or wallows clean. Stag- 
 nant and filthy water may keep the 
 hogs cool but the evil results from 
 unsanitary conditions over-balance 
 that result. 
 
 Keep the sleeping quarters free 
 from dust by spraying with crude oil. 
 Hogs will not thrive while coughing 
 and wheezing. 
 
 Concrete feeding floors is one of 
 the hog man's best assets. It is a 
 grain saver and assists in keeping the 
 place sanitary. Such a floor should 
 be six inches thick and if not laid 
 against the hog house, it should have 
 a curb extending from 18 to 8 inches 
 below the surface of the ground. 
 Floors should slope slightly towards 
 one corner to carry off rain or water 
 used in washing. For feeding floors 
 concrete should be mixed to propor- 
 tion one sack of Portland Cement, to 
 two cubic feet of clean coarse sand, 
 graded up to one-fourth of an inch; 
 three cubic feet of hard durable gravel 
 or broken stone from one-quarter of 
 an inch to one inch in diameter. Con- 
 crete should be thoroughly mixed and 
 
 should contain enough water to make 
 the mass quaky, so that the concrete 
 will flatten out of its own weight. 
 
 Any hog man, even in the corn belt, 
 by adopting the plan of growing soy 
 beans in the corn at the last cultiva- 
 tion and then turning in the hogs to 
 harvest both crops, will be well re- 
 paid. 
 
 Hog lots and enclosures should be 
 frequently plowed and refeeded, ob- 
 taining two objects at the same time. 
 One to make them more sanitary and 
 the second to produce more forage 
 and pasture. 
 
 In the spring after the litter is 
 weaned the sow should be given a 
 good fresh pasture of some kind with 
 a little grain and she will need but 
 very little concentrate feeds for a 
 month or two until time to begin to 
 bring her into condition for another 
 season's breeding. If she is to be 
 bred soon again after weaning her 
 fall or spring litters it is well to com- 
 mence feeding her immediately after 
 the udder is completely dried up. 
 Grass and water with two or three 
 ears of corn daily for each sow will 
 be sufficient. 
 
 Prevention of ulcers or sores con- 
 sists in keeping pens and yards clean 
 and sanitary for the filth of dust and 
 mud, etc., are carriers of disease pro- 
 ducing germs. Wash any ulcers or 
 sores with a 3% solution of any stand- 
 ard coal tar disinfectant. 
 
 Considerable relief can be gotten 
 for hogs suffering from lung trouble, 
 congestion of the lungs, and lung 
 
 Twenty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 worms, if a dip smudge is given once 
 a month. Fix up a tight shed or 
 stall, clean it thoroughly, put down 
 five or six inches of good fresh straw, 
 then saturate the straw thoroughly 
 with a solution of 50 parts of dip to 
 50 parts of boiling water. Drive the 
 hogs into the shed, crowding them 
 pretty well, and shut all doors and 
 allow them to remain there a couple 
 of hours. The steam fumes from the 
 dip will be inhaled by the hogs and 
 cut the congestion from the lungs and 
 be a wonderful help. On warm days 
 a weaker solution of the dip may be 
 used to sprinkle them. Do not give 
 the smudges on cold or rainy days. 
 When the hogs are turned out, be 
 sure it is in the middle of the day, 
 and do not turn them out to take 
 more cold. The treatment is an an- 
 tiseptic and a germicide, and a disin- 
 fectant as well. 
 
 The scour ailment is characterized 
 by a whitish discharge with a foul 
 odor. Causes are from over-feeding 
 the_ sow or from a sudden change in 
 ration, sour slop, and often comes 
 from being in damp or filthy quarters. 
 The best treatment of course is pre- 
 vention. One of the best remedies 
 found is to cut down the ration of the 
 sow at once and give the sow about i 
 ounces of raw linseed oil in the. slop. 
 If scours are not checked in two days, 
 give the sow 5 to 12 drops of tincture 
 of opium. Give the pigs one-eighth to 
 one-fourth teaspoonful of the follow- 
 ing mixture as a drench twice a day: 
 
 Bismuth of nitrate l4 ounce 
 
 Salol }4 ounce 
 
 Bichlorate of soda 1 ounce 
 
 have access to canals or irrigation 
 ditches. Do not visit your neighbor's 
 farm nor allow him to visit your's if 
 there is cholera on his premises. Do 
 not use the hog lots for farm imple- 
 ments. Do not place newly purchased 
 stock with your herd. Keep them in 
 a quarantine in a separate pen at least 
 for two weeks. Use care to prevent 
 carrying infection from these to the 
 other pens. Burn or cover with quick- 
 lime and bury under four feet of 
 earth all dead animals and viscera re- 
 moved from animals at butchering 
 time, because they attract buzzards, 
 dogs, etc., and they are liable to carry 
 infection. If cholera appears in the 
 neighborhood, confine your dog and 
 urge your neighbor to do the same. 
 Hog houses, lots apd pastures should 
 be arranged so as to be exposed as 
 far as possible to sunlight, which is 
 the cheapest and the best disinfectant. 
 All the holes and cesspools should be 
 drained and filled in or fenced oil. 
 
 Be sure that your hog lots and pas- 
 tures are away from streams and pub- 
 lic highways. Do not allow them to 
 run on free range or highways or 
 
 The sow's desire to eat her pigs 
 may result from a number of things, 
 as it is not natural for her to want 
 to destroy her young. She becomes 
 constipated and feverish and devel- 
 ops an abnormal craving or appetite 
 and may kill her pigs for that reason. 
 To prevent this condition she should 
 be properly fed. Oil meal in the ra- 
 tion will assist in regulating her bow- 
 els. In extreme cases of constipation 
 use epsom salts. The after-birth 
 should be promptly removed from the 
 pen and burned or buried. If left in 
 the pens she is likely to devour it, 
 and as the scent of the newly born 
 pigs is similar, she may have the de- 
 sire to eat them. A sow that has ac- 
 quired the habit of eating her pigs 
 should be watched carefully. The 
 pigs may be saved sometimes by rub- 
 bing each as it is farrowed with a 
 
 Twenty-two 
 
PART I 
 
 cloth saturated with kerosene, being There are four very sharp teeth in 
 
 careful not to use but a little, as the the mouth of the pigs, in the rear of 
 
 kerosene may blister the pig's skin. the mouth, and they are likely to 
 
 When the sow detects this odor she cause trouble in tearing the sow's 
 
 will decide not to eat the pigs. Very udder and they will be likely to cut 
 
 frequently in her irritation or fever- one another's mouths while fighting 
 
 ishness she steps on, or kills one with for the teats. These teeth can be re- 
 
 her head in bumping it and acquires moved with tooth forceps, wire nip- 
 
 the habit from eating the one she pers or a knife. Always cut or break 
 
 killed. them. Do not pull them. 
 
 Twenty-three 
 
»iBm«II ■)«■»■«— 
 
 — HIIVMII^— ■|MH||4* 
 
 PART II 
 
 101 Fully Illustrated Plans for Building 
 Hog Lot Devices 
 
 ^n— n— ■>—■■- 
 
 — an-^Hn— MJ i 
 
INDEX 
 
 Carts Pages 30 to 33 
 
 Oilers " 37 and 38 
 
 Handy Crates, Holders, Traps . . "41 to 50 
 
 Creeps and Gates " 53 " 58 
 
 Chutes "61 and 62 
 
 Troughs, Self-Feeders, Etc . . . . " 65 to 114 
 
 Miscellaneous Hog Lot Appliances " 117 " 132 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Combination Cart 
 
 For some time I had felt the desire 
 for an improvement on the "slop-pail 
 — bushel basket" method of feeding 
 hogs. I evolved the idea of a com- 
 bination cart drawn by horse power, 
 which would not only carry a slop or 
 water barrel, but would be a handy 
 conveyance for general use in the hog 
 business. I went with my plans to 
 the local blacksmith, and in a few 
 hours we made a cart, which, after 
 two years of constant use, has proved 
 entirely satisfactory. 
 
 Two long cart shafts are attached 
 to a heavy axle fitted with strong cart 
 wheels. The width from wheel to 
 wheel is the standard buggy width. 
 The shafts are attached to the axle 
 just inside the wheels. The axle is 
 then bent downward and extended to 
 within ten inches of the ground, then, 
 carried across under the floor of the 
 box. The box is made to fit inside 
 this drop axle, and bolted securely, 
 the axle being placed four inches to 
 the rear of the center of the box to 
 avoid tipping. The cross bar of the 
 
 shafts is bolted to the front end of 
 the box. The box itself is 5 feet long, 
 3 feet 2 inches wide and 2 feet 6 
 inches high. The rear end is hinged 
 to the floor of the box with gate 
 hinges. When let down, this makes a 
 loading chute. If desired, this end 
 gate may be unhinged. The sides of 
 the box are of white pine, secured to 
 the floor with iron straps. The floor- 
 ing is of hard wood, as are also the 
 heavy supports beneath. The cart is 
 thoroly painted with heavy wagon 
 paint. 
 
 The daily service of this cart has 
 demonstrated that it was a practical 
 investment. Not only does it accom- 
 modate the slop barrel, but it carries 
 sacks of tankage, middlings and other 
 dry feeds, hauls several bushels of ear 
 corn, a good sized shock of corn or 
 stover, fresh straw to the hog houses 
 and soiled bedding and manure away. 
 It transports a sow with her litter or 
 a score of pigs. A-shaped cots can be 
 inverted into it and moved with ease. 
 
 We find the ideal way to feed ear 
 
 Two views of the combination cart, a description of which Is given above by 
 C. Clayton Terrell, Its maker, at Vienna, Ohio. 
 
 TMrty 
 
PART II 
 
 corn or shock corn to growing pigs 
 or brood sows is to scatter it over a 
 field from this cart. The hogs thus 
 have a fresh feeding place each time, 
 and are induced to take vigorous 
 exercise. 
 
 This vehicle is of great assistance 
 when the time comes to immunize the 
 pig crop. It is used to convey the 
 pigs from their various lots and fields 
 to the central house where the 
 operator remains and works under 
 sanitary conditions. 
 
 The capacity of this cart accom- 
 modates the carrying of fresh bedding 
 along with the regular feed. Thus, a 
 soiled nest may be readily renewed, 
 which otherwise might be neglected — 
 and neglect means loss in the hog 
 business. 
 
 Another handy use to which we put 
 this cart is the moving of posts and 
 fencing from one field to another 
 when hogging corn. Rolls of fencing 
 
 are easily loaded into the cart, the 
 floor being only a few inches from 
 the ground at the rear. Handling 
 cement, sand and stone for concrete 
 work; moving heavy articles about 
 the farm; hauling stove wood; trans- 
 planting trees; hauling mulch dirt for 
 gardening, and a dozen other such 
 operations — all may be done to ad- 
 vantage with this handy low down 
 vehicle. 
 
 One of the most attractive features 
 is that one may ride from place to 
 place, and, with a good roadster in 
 the shafts, save much time and 
 energy. 
 
 I expect to make a new use of this 
 cart this season in hauling water and 
 fuel to our new tractor. 
 
 Experience with this combination 
 cart has proved that it is the most 
 used and most convenient vehicle on 
 my farm. 
 
 This Slop Cart Expedites Feeding 
 
 The cart shown here I made with 
 a pair of old cultivator wheels and a 
 three-foot galvanized tank I bought. 
 The tank was set over the axle back 
 far enough so it would not tip for- 
 
 WILBUR AN0ERSOI4-WICHITA IOWA. 
 
 ward, then I made an iron hook to 
 fasten over top edge of tank at the 
 back side, putting wire from the hook 
 down to the cart and twisting it tight. 
 A block was nailed at each side of 
 tank to keep it from sliding into the 
 wheels. After this, a 3}4-inch faucet 
 was bolted to the tank where a hole 
 had been cut in the bottom front 
 edge (the faucet has been omitted 
 from the illustration). 
 
 I use the tank for mixing slop, then 
 wheel to the troughs, open the 
 faucet, filling up the feeders, making 
 my slopping operations much easier. 
 The whole outfit cost me $5.85, $5.00 
 for the tank, 85c for the faucet, the 
 cart being made out of old materials. 
 
 Thirty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 This Slop Cart Gives Service 
 
 The illustration shows the most dur- 
 able and practical slop cart I have yet 
 seen. It is made from the arch and 
 wheels of an old riding corn plow by 
 reversing the arch and having it cut 
 and welded the right length to fit un- 
 der the barrel in a half round groove 
 cut in the chime, making the barrel 
 more solid. I furnished the barrel, 
 arch and wheels and my smith charged 
 me $3.00 for the labor and rest of the 
 material. A piece of old wagon tire 
 one inch wide will do to make the clip 
 irons for the top of axles and to fasten 
 the tongue to the barrel and also for 
 the tongue rest. These are fastened 
 by two bolts in each end of irons and 
 the nuts are on the inside of the bar- 
 rel. The tongue is an oak piece 3 ft. 
 
 long and 3J^xl^ in.; it has a piece 
 of an old fork handle 8 ins. long thru 
 the end to pull by. The top end of 
 the barrel is taken out and two pieces 
 of strap iron bolted across them for a 
 lid, and an ordinary strap hinge is 
 used to fasten it to the front side of 
 the barrel so when it is open it rests 
 on the tongue. 
 
 This is an important feature to me 
 as it keeps the chickens from drown- 
 ing, and if properly hung, will keep 
 oat the flies. It is high enough from 
 the ground so that you can back it up 
 to the trough and pour out the last of 
 the slop and keep out all the settlings, 
 thus keeping the barrel sanitary, 
 which I think is very essential in hog 
 raising. 
 
 g CT.WCDDf 
 NEWCARLUltl 
 OHIO 
 
 'L 
 
 Thirty -tzvo 
 
PART II 
 
 A Slop Cart 
 
 The attached drawing indicates the 
 parts to use in the construction of a 
 very handy and efficient slop cart. I 
 will endeavor to explain how it is 
 set up. Nos. 1 are the wheels; No. 3 
 slips over the hanger No. 2 thru 
 the square hole in the hangers. Then 
 brace iron No. 5 bolts to hanger No. 
 
 two staples, straddling the iron at 
 each corner. Lugs No. 4 bolt on 
 side of barrel No. 9 in the center and 
 the single tree No. 7 bolts on cross 
 pice No. la, and the Nos. 4 will swing 
 in the grooves No. 3. The long point 
 of No. 3 is on the rear. The boards 
 No. 8 lie on the brace iron Nos. 5, 
 
 3 where the two round holes are in- 
 dicated. Brace iron No. 5 hooks 
 over cross piece No. 12 with a bolt 
 thru each. This is to prevent barrel 
 from upsetting. The front of square 
 arch No. 2 lays on top of the wood 
 cross piece No. 11 and fastens with 
 
 which makes an ideal place for carry- 
 ing basket for com or slop pails. 
 
 This is one of the most convenient 
 carts for feeding and hauling the 
 water for large or small herds. It is 
 also easily cleaned. No. 3 hangers 
 are made of malleable iron to prevent 
 breaking. 
 
 Thirty-three 
 

 Oil 
 
 ers 
 
PART II 
 
 This Oiler Chases Lice 
 
 My good handy home-made hog 
 oiler has proven of great value and 
 has saved a great deal of money for 
 us on our Duroc farm. The oiler 
 is made by taking a round locust 
 post six inches in diameter and 4^ 
 feet long, boring six one inch holes 
 in the top near the outer edge and 
 about six inches deep; and with a 
 small gimlet bit bore one or two holes 
 from the outside of the post into each 
 of the larger holes near the bottom. 
 Take some burlap (or old gunny 
 sacks) and wrap around the upper 
 eighteen inches of the post, covering 
 
 the small holes. Take some rope 
 (about A inch is preferred) and 
 wrap closely over the burlap, and 
 staple several wires up and down 
 over the rope. Next (set the post 
 in the ground, and pour crude oil in 
 the one inch holes, and the hogs will 
 gladly do the rest. 
 
 We have found lice, one of the 
 bad pests among hogs, and this cheap 
 oiler will cost practically nothing to 
 build and is easily looked after by 
 keeping the holes filled with crude 
 oil. You-will kill all the lice and keep 
 the hogs' skin in good shape. 
 
 U' 
 
 R. C. BEAUCHAMP 
 FALLS or ROUGH. RV. 
 
 TUrty-ieven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Hogs Like This Roller Oiler 
 
 The oiler for hogs shown by the 
 sketch below is intended to be used in 
 a gate which the animals must of ne- 
 cessity pass thru. When they pass 
 between the rollers, wound with rope 
 saturated with crude oil, they are well 
 oiled each time they go to the feeding 
 pen. The rollers can be adjusted, ac- 
 cording to the size of the animals lo 
 be accommodated, so it will catch 
 their sides well. It is well to keep the 
 ropes saturated with crude oil at all 
 times for best results. 
 
 This is three feet high, four feet 
 long, and built of 3x4 oak material. 
 The rollers most popular to wrap the 
 
 rope around are 3x3. You will find 
 this a good investment. 
 
 ALBCKT n*TSAN , HiOHLAND. O. 
 
 A Serviceable Hog Oiler 
 
 The following is a description of a 
 hog oiler and rubbing post, one that a 
 large hog will not upset and that is 
 suitable, also, for the small pigs. In 
 fact this is a successful oiler as a pig 
 or hog wil rub any part of its body on 
 it and will get astraddle of it and oil 
 parts that other oilers fail to oil. It 
 is simple, durable, economical, and 
 
 iATURATEO WITH tWX C 
 
 Z.SLOUItt 
 ELMWOOD,0KLA. 
 
 serviceable for all sizes and ages of 
 hogs. When in use there will be no 
 lice or skin disease. These are rea- 
 sons why you should have one, too, 
 brother breeder. 
 
 Set a strong five foot post in the 
 ground three feet deep, leaving two 
 feet to stand perpendicular, then, 
 mortise one end of a ten foot 4x4 
 into the top of the post and bolt 
 securely, leaving other end of 4x4 to 
 extend into a hole dug in the ground 
 lyi' deep. Fill hole around 4x4 with 
 cement to make solid, wrap 4x4 and 
 post with gunny sacks, and wrap them 
 with smooth wire and staple at inter- 
 vals of four to six inches. Saturate 
 with crude oil, and it is then ready 
 for use. 
 
 Thirty-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 Combination Chute, Crate, Ringer 
 
 COL.C J JOMNJTXIN 
 NEW WEJTON OHIO 
 
 I have a hog crate, loading chute, 
 ringing pen, all in one item of equip- 
 ment, made on a swag iron axle, in 
 the center, so as to tip up with either 
 end the right slant in wagon. When 
 using it as a crate, just drop in the 
 end doors, also for use when ringing 
 or tagging. 
 
 This device is 7 ft. long, 30 in. wide, 
 
 i ft. high, and the end doors are 
 dropped in from the top. Its being 
 on two wheels makes it possible to 
 move where desired on the farm to 
 load or unload hogs of 1,500 lbs. each, 
 or to fasten behind your car and run 
 it as fast as you want to. I find this 
 as handy a combination as "a pocket 
 in a shirt." 
 
 Forty-oae 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Advantages of the Breeding Crate 
 
 PROPER management at breed- 
 ing time frequently results in the 
 breeding of a great many sows 
 that otherwise might fail to mate and 
 would necessarily have to be carried 
 over to the next season, thus involv- 
 ing expense without producing a lit- 
 ter of pigs. This condition may be 
 partly overcome by the use of the 
 breeding crate, which is growing in 
 popularity. 
 
 Some sows when in heat will not 
 take the boar readily and will often 
 hinder a successful service by lower- 
 ing the vitality of the male. When a 
 small sow is bred to a large, heavy 
 boar there is danger of injury to the 
 sow if some mechanical device is not 
 used to help bear the weight of the 
 boar. Such a device can also be used 
 to advantage when a small boar is 
 mated to a large sow. 
 
 There are many types of breeding 
 crates which the farmer may con- 
 struct. The accompanying illustra- 
 tions show a crate that can be 
 operated by one man and is easily 
 constructed on the average farm 
 without involving much expense. 
 Directions for Operation 
 
 The sow is driven into the open end 
 of the crate until her hind feet are in 
 front of the crosspiece of the T- 
 shaped lift. The sow is elevated by 
 means of the lift, which is drawn up 
 by a windlass as shown in the illus- 
 
 tration. A ratchet on the windlass 
 holds the sow at the desired height. 
 The partition at the front end of the 
 crate operates on a slide and can be 
 arranged to suit the length of the 
 sow. Thus, if the sow is large the 
 partition can be moved toward the 
 end of the crate to allow plenty of 
 space without cramping her, and in 
 the case of a small sow the partition 
 is moved closer to eliminate an un- 
 due amount of space. The point to 
 remember is that the animal should 
 be in a natural position in order to 
 obtain the best results. 
 
 When the sow is properly placed 
 the boar is brought up. His hind 
 feet should rest on a flat cleated plat- 
 form laid on the ground to give him 
 a solid footing. The cleats should be 
 1 by 2 inches to prevent slipping. 
 His front feet will fall upon the rest, 
 as shown in the drawing, the sow be- 
 ing required to bear only a small'part 
 of his weight. The sow should then 
 be raised or lowered, as the case may 
 be, to the proper height by means of 
 the windlass. When a small sow is 
 bred the short top rests are extended 
 to hold her firmly in position. 
 
 After breeding, the boar is driven 
 to his pen or paddock. The sow is 
 removed from the crate either by re- 
 leasing the ratchet on the windlass 
 and allowing her to back out or by re- 
 moving the sliding partition so that 
 
 Forty-fwo 
 
PART II 
 
 she may walk out the front end of 
 the crate. 
 
 Bill of Materials for Constructing a 
 Crate 
 
 Dressed or undressed lumber may 
 be used in the construction of a breed- 
 ing crate. The material required will 
 total about 140 board feet of lumber 
 of the following dimensions: 
 
 6 pieces, 2 by 4 Inches by 16 feet long, for 
 uprights and sides. 
 
 14 pieces, 1 by 6 Inches by 12 feet long, for 
 sides and flooring. 
 
 Hardware, Etc. 
 2 pieces, )i-inch iron rods 30 inches long, 
 with 2 wing nuts, as shown in illustration, 
 for sliding partition. 
 
 1 piece, 1-inch pipe 2 feet 10 inches in 
 length, with handle and ratchet, for wind- 
 lass. 
 
 12 feet sash cord, for windlass. 
 
 1 pair hinges. 
 
 4 angle irons, %-inch th'ick by 1% inches 
 in width, and made 2 by 3 inches, as shown 
 on the sliding partition. 
 
 5 pounds 10-penny wire nails. 
 
 2 pounds 20-penny nails. 
 
 It is not absolutely necessary to 
 construct the crate as shown. Other 
 methods of making a windlass that 
 will answer the desired purpose may 
 suggest themselves. For instance, 
 instead of being made of iron, it could 
 be made of wood in much the same 
 manner as the old wooden windlass 
 used over wells. 
 
 Forty-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Catcher That Does the Trick When Ringing 
 
 Those who are familiar with catch- 
 ing hogs in a hog catcher will Know 
 that after an old sow has been caught 
 and operated on a couple of times it 
 is a job to drive her into a hog catch- 
 er, and hog ringing, while effective, 
 must be repeated from time to time 
 because of the loss of the ring. Some- 
 times an animal is wanted for various 
 other reasons. With the ringing ar- 
 rangement shown one man can easily 
 ring a bunch of hogs without assis- 
 tance. 
 
 Make your pen in two compart- 
 ments long and narrow; make a chute 
 3 ft.xlO ft. at one end, placing the par- 
 titions close up, leaving room for only 
 a few hogs behind the chute. The 
 bottom of the chute is to be three feet 
 lower at the outside end; locate your 
 hog catcher here. If you have a hill 
 side, everything is ready; if not, dig 
 a pit. Attach two small ropes to the 
 
 lever of the hog catcher, letting them 
 run back to a small gate in the par- 
 tition, fixing them so the operator can 
 open and close the lever with the 
 ropes. Lay two boards 3 in.xl3 in.x8 
 ft. in the chute as a floor, planed 
 smooth on one side, and well greased, 
 ending them close up to the hog catch- 
 er, leaving about two feet of bare 
 ground in the chute behind the boards. 
 Now the hogs can be driven in the 
 big pen, then open the small gate, cut 
 out five or six in the chute pen, and 
 with the ropes, open the gate enough 
 for one to pass thru. When he hits 
 the slippery slide, he is sure to go into 
 the catcher. Have the lever blocked 
 so it will open only wide enough for 
 the jowels to get thru until after opera- 
 tions, when it can be opened wide, and 
 Mr. Hog will slip thru of his own 
 accord. I find this does the trick. 
 
 LARGE PEN 
 R EARU ABETRNATHY , CONCORD, ILL 
 
 Forty-four 
 
PART II 
 
 A Hog Ringing Crate 
 
 Here is a hog-ringing crate. With it 
 we can ring one hundred hogs an hour. 
 One man can make this crate in an 
 hour or two and the material needed 
 used (2x4 and 1x6) are so short as to 
 be worth little for anything else. 
 
 The measurements indicated in the 
 
 men inside drive hogs into it, while one 
 man does the ringing. The pig walks 
 up one side and down the other and 
 holds himself with his nose between 
 the two boards. It is then an easy mat- 
 ter for the operator to ring him, after 
 which he pulls the pins from the top of 
 
 - 5'/l- 
 
 door of the hog house and one or two 
 diagram are taken from the one we use. 
 It is just right for pigs of 100 to 200 
 pounds, with larger hogs it would be 
 necessary to build a larger crate. 
 
 It takes two or three men to run this 
 machine. It is placed in front of the 
 
 the board, allowing them to spread, thus 
 permitting the hog to jump thru. The 
 operator stands on the left side and 
 holds the pig with a patented or home- 
 made pig holder with one hand and 
 rings them with the other. 
 
 Forty-five 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Hog Holder for Vaccinating or Castrating 
 
 We have a holder used for either vac- 
 cinating or castrating hogs that is ex- 
 ceedingly satisfactory. The assistant 
 state veterinarian in Mt. Pleasant says 
 it is the best thing he ever saw for that 
 purpose and we heartily -agree with him. 
 The pig is laid on its back with nose 
 
 well through the hole; while one man 
 holds his fore-legs and another his hind- 
 legs, the vaccinator's work is then very 
 easy, as the pig can neither move nor 
 squeal. You will like to use one, we be- 
 lieve. The sketch shows materials and 
 details of construction. 
 
 2a (0* 
 
 2>I2" 
 
 HOG HOLDER 
 FOR 
 VACCINATING 
 
 BLACKnORC BROS.. IfT. PLeAJANt.xfOVM. 
 
 A Handy Hog Holder 
 
 I submit plans for an inexpensive hog 
 holder that will be found to fill all needs 
 for such a device. 
 
 The materials required are 3 feet of 
 J4 inch gas pipe with sharp edges 
 
 dressed off; 3J4 feet of clothes line 
 wire; 4 inches of pitchfork handle, or 
 similar material for handle of instru- 
 ment. 
 Bore a small hole j/i inch from the 
 
 Forty-six 
 
PART II 
 
 lower end of the pipes and fasten the 
 wire in same. Then run wire through 
 the pipe and lengthwise through the 
 
 IPUIS J.WILKINSON-ROODHOUSE ILL.j 
 
 )blN.HOUINPI»Er' 
 
 '^IN.PIECS OFWOO 
 
 i inch handle and form a loop by fas- 
 tening the wire back on itself. 
 
 It is now ready for use. Push down 
 on the wire, forming a loop at the lower 
 end of the pipe. Slip this loop over the 
 hog's nose through the mouth and pull 
 up on handle and down on pipe. 
 
 A Pig Trap 
 
 HM.P0E 
 IKCOMB OHia 
 
 I have made what I consider one of 
 the most useful of hog farm devices 
 which I call my pig trap. It consists of 
 a crate made on this order: Height, 8 
 feet; width, 32 inches, and 4 feet 6 
 inches long. This is made very similar 
 to a hog crate, but it has no bottom in 
 it, and both ends are made to slide up 
 and down when desired. The top strips 
 are mailed lengthwise of the crate in- 
 stead of crosswise. The trap should be 
 made of light lumber so that it will be 
 light to handle. 
 
 When wishing to catch any pig, throw 
 down a little corn and your pigs will 
 
 Forty-: 
 
 soon be busy. Let your customer choose 
 his pig, then pick up your trap, walk 
 among your pigs, <«id drop it over the 
 one desired. It matters not toward 
 which end the head is in the crate, as 
 either end will slide up and down. It is 
 then possible to set a crate at the end 
 of the trap and quietly walk your pig 
 into it. There is no hard work in the 
 operation, no squealing or excitement, 
 and I believe that I can catch every pig 
 one at a time and the last pig will still 
 be eating when caught. I would not be 
 without my hog trap for a good deal. 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Ringing Chute 
 
 HEAVY IRON 
 
 STRftPIRON 17" 
 
 2"x'f"xz8" 
 
 C.Y.5T0UT, UNION 3TAR,nO. 
 
 This simple Ringing Chute can be 
 used for removing tusks from boars, 
 and to haul hogs to town as well as 
 for Ringing. The frame is made of 
 8x4's of pine and the rest of cypress. 
 The 2x4 side pieces are laid flat, and 
 the 2x4 top cross pieces in front are on 
 edge. The top center 2x4 is laid flat 
 and a 2x2 is used on top at the back. 
 The 8x4 cross pieces under the chute 
 
 are on edge and the 2x4's are sawed 
 so they can be bolted together with 4 
 inch bolts. Three 8 inch boards 54 
 inches long make the bottom and all 
 boards are nailed on the inside of the 
 2x4 pieces. Top boards are cut 2 inches 
 short to allow the end board to drop 
 in place. Two strap irons are used 
 on the end for cross pieces. Four 6 
 inch and fourteen 4 inch bolts are used. 
 
 A Handy Catching Pen 
 
 The accompanying sketch shows 
 the plan of my device that I have used 
 for some time and found it very con- 
 venient in catching hogs on my farm. 
 In one corner of your lot build a 
 straight fence, forcing a triangle pen 
 >om A to B. Hang a large gate at 
 C, open to D and closed at B; hang a 
 large gate at E, open to F and closed 
 at C; hang a small gate at H, open to 
 I and closed at A. 
 
 Forty-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 To catch a hog easily, feed near the 
 small gate, and close the "sweep 
 gate." Place your crate at small, open 
 the gate, and the hog can readily be 
 driven in. I find this pen to be espe- 
 cially handy for catching pregnant 
 
 sows or animals of all kinds without 
 running or exciting them. I also find 
 by having a door at both ends of my 
 crate it makes it very easy to get the 
 hog out of the crate. 
 
 A Simple Hog Holder 
 
 Get a round stick about 5 feet long 
 and bore a 5^ inch hole in one end 
 of it. Run a J^ inch rope thru the 
 
 twist. You have him so he can't get 
 away and can proceed to insert rings 
 in the nose. We can easily ring the hogs 
 
 hole and tie the ends securely. Get 
 this loop around the hog's nose and 
 
 by ourself with this handy and simple 
 instrument. 
 
 A Trap That Gets Them 
 
 The trap to catch and hold hogs 
 I first made when just a boy and have 
 never seen a hog too big to be held 
 so still they could not flinch or jerk 
 the least bit when being rung. To 
 remove the tusks from old boars 
 catch them in this trap and using a 
 staple puller to grip the tusks, you 
 can break them oflf smooth close to 
 the gums. Use the notched places in 
 pullers, same as gripping a staple to 
 pull. • 
 
 This trap works best built in a nar- 
 row alley, a gate, or door will do, 
 and hope it will be helpful to more 
 than one breeder. 
 
 ^fiOLES FOR ADJUSTMENT 
 B.E. HALL, WATSON. MO. 
 
 Forty-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Handy Crate 
 
 CLARENCE R0BBIN5, CLCNCOE.KY. 
 
 The crate shown in the accompany- 
 ing drawing I have found very handy 
 in moving hogs from one part of the 
 farm to another. The sketch is self- 
 explanatory as to construction, but 
 
 I will add that it can be set on a 
 sled, the hog driven in at one end 
 and out of the other by having both 
 ends so that they can be raised. 
 
 Sow and Litter Shipping Crate 
 
 This crate is very handy to ship a 
 sow with litter by her side. The pigs 
 can be kept in the small enclosure at 
 
 the end of the crate and will keep out 
 of danger's way. The diagram below 
 will explain the measurements, etc. 
 
 H.tH.itfT, PCRRV, rOWA 
 
 Fifty 
 
Creeps and Gates 
 In the Hog Pen 
 
 -a— ^. - 
 
PART II 
 
 A Creep for Young Pigs 
 
 To teach young pigs to eat at the 
 earliest possible age, we use flat bottom 
 troughs 13 inches wide by 4 inches deep, 
 in which to feed the mothers. The 
 small pigs soon learn to eat from a 
 trough like this. As soon as the pigs 
 learn to eat well from this trough, 
 build a division fence which will pre- 
 vent the mother from getting to the 
 trough. Feed the mother near by in 
 a trough with the top at least 13 inches 
 from the ground and make a creep hole 
 near the ground so the pigs can get to 
 the low, flat trough containing pig feed. 
 When several sows have pigs a month 
 old and over, we bunch them and feed 
 the young porkers in a common pen. 
 ♦ * ♦ 
 
 Our feed pens are formed in the 
 
 shape of an L, a row of pens 6 feet by 
 8 feet being arranged for each indi- 
 vidual sow. The bottow of the L forms 
 the feed pen for the pigs; the open side 
 is toward the pasture. 
 
 When we first used such an arrange- 
 ment, we noticed as the pigs grew they 
 got wedged in the creep hole. We found 
 that some smart pig, too large to get in 
 would take a running start and leap 
 into the hole and become wedged hard 
 and fast. Many pigs that could just 
 get in would be unable to get out after 
 they had eaten their stomachs full. So 
 we wanted a creep hole that would not 
 wedge a pig and that would be larger 
 for the pig when coming out than com- 
 ing in. We made one to fill the bill, 
 and here it is: 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 ~~«W^ — -3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 U^^^« 
 
 ^^^B 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 S| 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 » 
 
 111 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^==^ 
 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 
 l^^^^S 
 
 ^^== 
 
 
 t 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 — - — 
 
 Piity-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Six inches from the ground make a 
 horizontal opening 8 inches wide and 4 
 feet long. At the ends of this opening 
 set two uprights (2x6) on the outside 
 of the pen. Nail these to the pen edge- 
 wise; this forms a door facing. Make 
 a door to fit between these uprights 
 and hang it from above so that it will 
 cover three inches of the opening at 
 bottom. 
 
 The hinges are mastened to a 2x4 
 that rests on the top of the facing. A 
 2x6 four feet long between the door 
 facing and underneath the creep hole 
 does the job. This makes a creep hole 
 5 inches wide and 4 feet long so several 
 pigs can get in at one time. The pigs 
 go in thru a five inch hole and come 
 out thru an eight inch hole. If a pig 
 
 gets wedged, he backs out and the 
 swinging door opens and never injures 
 an animal. 
 
 When the pigs are eating, we open the 
 doors to the sow pen and let the sows 
 in one at a time and close the door 
 on her to prevent fighting. We have 
 several pens for pigs of different sizes. 
 
 It is necessary to have a facing so 
 the bottom of the door hangs well in- 
 side of the facing to keep the sows 
 from opening it. We nail a strip hori- 
 zontally across the facing midway of the 
 door on the side the door opens to 
 keep the door from opening too wide 
 and to give strength to the whole thing. 
 Thus we have a creep hole that is never 
 out of shape. 
 
 An A-1 Trap for Hogs 
 
 I have a simple and inexpensive 
 equipment on my farm which I wish 
 to give to brother breeders. It 
 
 is what I call a hog gap, and I 
 think anyone raising hogs could use 
 it with satisfaction and profit. I use it 
 
 Fifty-four 
 
PART II 
 
 between all my fields and bermuda 
 pasture, at my dipping vat, and be- 
 tween field and field. It is made in 
 this way. I go to my wire fence, put 
 in two good fence posts three feet 
 apart, staple the wire to them firmly, 
 then, beginning at the bottom of the 
 fence, I leave the two bottom wires 
 there, but cut the wires above these 
 as high as I want the gap, say two 
 and a half or three feet, leaving the 
 two bottom and top wires in tact. 
 Then take a l}4x4 and nail on posts 
 up and down the same side of fence 
 wire is nailed on. I nail on two 
 cross pieces, Ij4x4, one across the 
 bottom just coming up even with the 
 two wires left, the other three feet above 
 the first, making an opening 3' x 3' 
 which will admit any of my hogs or 
 pigs, but not a^mit cows or horses. 
 To stop this hole up, I take three 
 
 one inch boards 12" wide and about 
 4' long and stick down between the 
 wires I left uncut at bottom and top 
 of fence and the two cross pieces, 
 this making it secure until you want 
 it open. Boards of smaller width, can 
 be inserted in the place of the twelve 
 inch board to admit only small pigs 
 and shotes in a corn field just after 
 laying by on any other field to eat 
 lots of succulent grass, weeds, and 
 fallen corn which would otherwise be 
 lost. Listen, Mr. Hog Raiser, they 
 will get fat and make you money, 
 whereas if you let the old sows in 
 there, there would be lots of corn 
 wasted. You cauvmake this gap in a 
 plank or rail fence as well. I use it 
 at my dipping vat and feeding pens 
 as well to keep the big hogs from 
 running over and crushing the little 
 ones. 
 
 Plans for Building a Gate 
 
 The frame of the gate shown in the 
 following drawing is made of hard- 
 wood boards lj^x4 inches, and of 
 course must be of such length that 
 will meet the requirements of the size 
 of gate. There is one brace, as is 
 shown by the cut, 1^4x4 inches; also 
 one piece of hardwood 15^x4 inches 
 and one piece of iron 24 inches long 
 (after being bent) and Yt inch in dia- 
 meter. The covering is hog wire of 
 good quality. After the frame has been 
 made a piece 2x6 is taken out of the 
 
 Ij4x4-inch oak, six inches from the 
 end that is to be next to the latch 
 post. This piece is now nailed flat 
 sided, and a hole is bored thru the 
 gate-frame and into the post (about 
 2 inches into the post). This iron 
 has now been bent and is fitted into 
 the bored hole so that the crook fits 
 into the notch marked "B" in the 
 sketch. 
 
 Now, two staples are nailed over 
 each end of the iron rod to hold it in 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
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 W, B. CLARK . COLD HILL, VA. 
 
 place. To open the gate, simply raise 
 or turn up the U-bend in the iron and 
 slip it back from the post; this lets 
 the gate swing open. To close, the 
 gate is pushed back, the iron slipped 
 
 back into place, and the gate is then 
 secure. No hog can either raise or 
 open the gate. This gate is very 
 simple and inexpensive and is too 
 valuable for hog men to overlook. 
 
 A Practical Hog Farm Gate 
 
 I am not the man of the house, but 
 since my husband and I have spent 
 our twenty-six years of married life 
 on the farm, where we raise from 30O 
 to 500 hogs each year, I decided to 
 send you a draft of the kind of gates 
 we use. We have never found any- 
 thing yet in the line of gates that we 
 thought equal to this one. It does 
 not require a heavy post to hang on 
 and it is operated as easily by a child 
 as by a man. It saves much heavy 
 work in exchanging your hogs, and 
 if you should have horses or cattle 
 in the field and it is desired to per- 
 mit the hogs to enter the lot without 
 the cattle or horses getting thru, this 
 gate answers the purpose admirably. 
 
 This gate is operated wholly upon 
 the two flat iron pieces, one of which 
 is attached to the post and the other 
 to an iron strip on the opposite side 
 of the gate. A rod connects these 
 two iron pieces, thus forming a very 
 strong, indestructible hinge. Be- 
 tween the iron piece closest to the 
 gate and the iron strip there is a 
 pulley which operates upon a piece of 
 one-inch gas pipe, attached to the 
 gate as indicated in the diagram. To 
 open this gate you take hold of the 
 extended slat (which the artists failed 
 to indicate in the drawing, but which 
 is simply an extension of the third 
 slat on the end of the gate opposite 
 the hinge) and push the gate di- 
 
 Fifty-six 
 
PART II 
 
 rectly from the latch post toward the 
 hinge post until the pulley is as far 
 toward the center brace of the gate 
 as it will go. It is a simple matter, 
 then, to swing the gate around off the 
 ground and free from interference of 
 cobs or other refuse. 
 
 Not the least feature of this gate is 
 the lower slide which is easily opened 
 to permit the passing of hogs and 
 sheep without the cattle or horses 
 
 getting thru. The diagram shows the 
 gate and hinge very clearly, and to 
 fasten this gate shut, merely allow 
 the extended third slat to drop over 
 a hook on the latch post. 
 
 I am sure that many will see the 
 real worth of this gate and have some 
 of this kind made, for I am sure 
 that none other will answer after 
 trying this kind. 
 
 MARION INO. 
 
 Fifty-seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Portable Fence 
 
 BOLT-^ ; 
 
 WF.BOULUARC 
 GREENWOOD M. 
 
 The portable fence shown above, in 
 my opinion, is a very handy item of 
 hog farm equipment, and I have found 
 it especially convenient in separating 
 a sow before farrowing or to confine 
 them on certain feed patches, etc. 
 Many other ways, however, can be 
 found for the use of this fence. 
 
 In the construction, make a trian- 
 gular frame of 1 x 3 material, consist- 
 ing of base 18 inches long, upright 
 piece 4 feet 6 inches high, and brace 
 
 4 feet 3 inches long. Use four light 
 8-inch planks 16 feet and nail on out- 
 side of frame. Put frames eight feet 
 apart; make them in right and left 
 hand sections, and fasten together 
 with machine bolts at top and bottom 
 of each lap. This can be moved from 
 place to place anywhere on the farm 
 and will be found almost indispens- 
 able to the live stock raiser, especially 
 of hogs. 
 
 Fifty-eight 
 
Chutes 
 For Loading 
 
PART II 
 
 A Handy Hog Chute 
 
 The hog chute described here is 
 8 feet long and 30 inches across on 
 the inside, 2x4's and lx4's with boards 
 in bottom with cleats across. The up- 
 rights at upper end are 5 feet 6 inches, 
 and are made in two pieces with bolts 
 and extra holes so they can be adjusted 
 
 for either a wagon or a sleigh. There 
 are three cross pieces under bottom 5 
 feet long and extend 13 inches on each 
 side for nailing the braces to. No 
 cross pieces are necessary across the 
 top of the chute. 
 
 HARRY TIDEMAN, 'RENNER . 3. DAK. 
 
 Wheeled Hog Chute 
 
 If the stationary hog chute would 
 always be at the right place and would 
 not shelter so many weeds, I would, 
 perhaps, forget about its unsightli- 
 ness. But this is not the case, how- 
 ever, and that is the reason I devised 
 a light but strong chute and put it 
 on wheels so that I can take it any- 
 where on the farm to load hogs, etc.. 
 
 and in case Neighbor "Jones" has no 
 chute I can tie it on the end of my 
 wagon and take it along, and when 
 thru using it, I can run it in the im- 
 plement shed where it is out of the 
 way and in shelter. 
 
 This chute is 10 feet long, 2J4 feet 
 wide, and 2 feet high (inside measure- 
 ment). There are three 1x4 boards on 
 
 Sixty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 each side bolted to the four standards 
 which fits into strap iron sockets. 
 The standards are of 2x4 material, 
 and the sills which hold the sockets 
 are 2x6. Four 2x4 cleats bolted un- 
 derneath support the floor which is 
 made of 2x1x12 boards placed length- 
 wise. Nail toe hold strips 6 inches 
 apart on the floor. Make an axle of 
 1}4 inch pipe of sufficient length to 
 fit a couple of old cultivator or other 
 suitable wheels. Then, use paint 
 freely, putting the finishing touch on 
 this useful article. 
 
 A New Idea Loading Chute 
 
 The diagram below shows my 
 home-made chute constructed 20 ft. 
 long with a gradual slope. At the 
 top and even with the wagon box I 
 have a two-foot turn where the hogs 
 go on the wagon. This turn takes those 
 
 hogs in the lead out of sight and the 
 hogs in the long chute follow as 
 though they were being driven into 
 another pen. I always bed the chute 
 and wagon box with straw, so it 
 seems like home to the hogs. 
 
 H.a. ERNST 
 
 Sixty-two 
 
Slop Barrels 
 
 Troughs 
 
 Self Feeders 
 
 Automatic Waterers 
 
PART II 
 
 This Method Saves Slop 
 
 Here is a slopping method that I 
 have used continuously for five years, 
 and that I would not be without. Fol- 
 lowing is the process of construction: 
 
 Bore a two-inch hole in barrel just 
 so the lower part of the hole will be 
 at the bottom; get a five-inch nipple, 
 
 there will be plenty of room for you 
 to stand when mixing slop. At slop- 
 ping time, stir slop up well, unscrew 
 cap from nipple and watch results. 
 Set trough as in illustration, and when 
 the pigs are let in thru open gate, they 
 will be equally divided on each side of 
 
 W.eARBER.— LEWISTOWN ILL, 
 
 and cap, with threads cut on both ends 
 of nipple. The nipple is screwed with 
 a pipe wrench into the barrel just so 
 it will go thru to the inside. Make 
 the bottom of platform just high 
 enough so it will clear the end board 
 of trough, and large enough so that 
 after the barrel is placed thereon. 
 
 the trough. By this method of slop- 
 ping, you can slop thirty or forty pigs 
 that will weigh 100 lbs. in a few min- 
 utes' time and without any waste of 
 slop. The slop is evenly distributed 
 the full length of the trough when the 
 pigs are turned in, thus giving each an 
 equal chance to "get their fill." 
 
 Sixty-five 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Non-Freezing Slop Barrel 
 
 E.O.ETTER SCARK5. NCaR. 
 
 Make a trap door in feed room floor. 
 Dig a hole in the ground large enough 
 to place a barrel, the top of the barrel 
 below the level of the floor. Fit this 
 barrel with a tight lid which may be 
 held in place with one strap hinge. It 
 is an easy matter to put in ground feed 
 and matter which may be easily stirred 
 with a garden rake. Put one pail of hot 
 water in the feed just before feeding. 
 By keeping both lids fastened securely, 
 the feed will not freeze in the coldest 
 weather. If you have an engine in the 
 same room, the hot water from the 
 water jacket may be used in place of 
 the one pail of hot water. 
 
 Barrel Self-Feeder 
 
 W.C.CLARK ^ GOLD HILL VA. 
 
 This self-feeder is made of a salt 
 fish barrel, a tin lard can, and a 
 wooden box 2J4 inches square by 6 
 inches deep. 
 
 To- build, knock both ends from the 
 barrel and also both ends from the 
 tin can. Crush the tin can into the 
 shape of a funnel. Construct the box 
 of any suitable material 2J4 feet 
 
 square, 6 inches deep and nail the fun- 
 nel in the center, point up. Place the 
 barrel on four strong hardwood posts 
 the desired height from the floor 
 (mine are iyi inches). There should 
 be a covering on the barrel to keep 
 out trash and the weather. 
 
 This feeder has proven ideal on my 
 farm. 
 
 Sixty-six 
 
PART II 
 
 A Barrel Self- Feeder 
 
 HU6HMULUK1N— FRANKLIN IND. 
 
 To make the self-feeder as indicated 
 by the sketch requires an old barrel with 
 both ends knocked out, a box three feet 
 square, made of ^ inch or 1 inch mate- 
 rial, with the side 6 or 7 inches high. 
 Have four right angle iron supports 
 made to elevate the barrel four inches 
 from the box bottom. These should be 
 bolted in to avoid coming loose. This 
 is a very efficient self-feeder and will 
 accommodate as many as nine big hogs. 
 It i* very cheap to construct, as nearly 
 every farmer has the desired materials 
 on hand. 
 
 Here Is Your Barrel Feeder 
 
 In constructing the feeder indicated 
 in the accompanying sketch, make a 
 platform 36 in. square, with four inch 
 sides, setting a good oil or kerosene 
 barrel in it. Have four strap irons 
 made 1J4 in. wide, 18 in. long, bent as 
 shown, bolting one end to the plat- 
 form and the other to the barrel. By 
 having several holes in the iron next 
 to the barrel, the flow of feed can be 
 regulated to flow as desired. 
 
 This makes a good feeder for 
 shelled corn and is cheap and durable. 
 You can easily afford to have sev- 
 eral of them. Each will accommo- 
 date fifty small pigs, as ten or fifteen 
 can eat at one time. I am using this 
 kind of a barrel feeder, and find it sat- 
 isfactory in every way. 
 
 FRANK 
 SHELLROCK. 
 
 Sixty-seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Device for Feeding and Watering 
 
 We have had for the past few years 
 a device for feeding and watering hogs 
 which we have found both practical and 
 convenient. It consists of a feed trough, 
 a grass rack and a water trough 
 mounted on two pieces of joist so as to 
 form one end of the pen. Its construc- 
 tion is as follows: An ordinary V- 
 shaped trough has the lower corner of 
 each of its end pieces bolted to the up- 
 right, the uprights in turn being fastened 
 
 to the beam forming the base. Notches 
 are cut in the tops of these uprights to 
 hold the corner of the swinging gate 
 or panel. The bar is kept from jump- 
 ing out of the notches by pieces DD. 
 F serves as a brace between the up- 
 rights. Blocks E prevent the pigs push- 
 ing the gate and getting loose. 
 
 To feed pigs, the swinging panel is 
 pushed far enough for the catch to get 
 a "bite" on the side of the trough nearer 
 
 JOSEPH A.MAHONEY 
 ROCK LAN MASS. 
 
 Sixty-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 the pigs, thus keeping them from inter- 
 fering when filling. A small block A 
 on the catch keeps the trough from be- 
 ing tipped by the pigs. After filling, the 
 gate is locked forward so the pigs can 
 eat. By pushing the panel way back and 
 grasping the bar L the trough may be 
 tipped outside for cleaning. 
 
 The grass rack is simple, being as 
 shown in the diagram, boards on the 
 outside^ and bars about 3 inches wide 
 on the inside. The ends are the uprights 
 of the feed trough and the water trough. 
 
 The water trough is different from the 
 feed trough by detail as shown in Fig. 
 3. The swinging gate shutting against 
 bar C serves the double purpose of 
 keeping the pigs in and preventing them 
 from tipping the trough. It may be 
 filled from the outside and pitched for 
 cleaning in the same manner as does the 
 feed trough. The farmers who build 
 this arrangement will be amply repaid 
 for their pains by the time and trouble 
 saved. 
 
 A Feeding Trough Gate 
 
 I have used the gate shown in the 
 accompanying sketch for ten years, 
 and find that where only a few hogs 
 are raised it is much easier to care 
 for them. By using this gate, all 
 pigs get at the feed at the same time, 
 and the feed may be distributed over 
 the trough so that each may get his 
 share. Incidentally, the use of this 
 gate saves a lot of cussing when you 
 are feeding the hogs in your Sunday 
 suit. If the gate is fixed so that it 
 
 will swing a little past the center of 
 the trough, the hogs will not be able 
 to get their feet in it. This can be 
 done by bolting a V-shaped piece to 
 the inside of the trough. I use only 
 flat troughs in connection with these 
 gates, as they save feed and are easy 
 on the feet of the pigs. I stretrfi 
 No. 9 wire across the trough to pre- 
 vent crowding. The diagram gives 
 full details of this gate and trough. 
 
 aAT BOTTOM 
 TROUOflS SAVE 
 FEED -ARE 
 EASY OW H005' 
 FEET. 
 
 TRANSFER , PENN. 
 
 Sixty-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Feeding Box 
 
 Any hog man knows the usual trou- 
 ble experienced in trying to feed a 
 bunch of hogs in the same pen with 
 them. This feeding gate overcomes 
 this evil. Trying 'to feed hogs as 
 above mentioned always results in at 
 least a pail of good, high-priced slop 
 on the pigs' backs and on the ground. 
 This device also saves the ■ feeder's 
 temper. The last and largest reason 
 is that if the hogs are all kept off the 
 feeding floor until the slop has been 
 equally distributed in the troughs, it 
 gives the runt of the herd equally as 
 good a chance to feed as has the larg- 
 est pig. This gate can also be 
 
 arranged to keep the brood sows out 
 and allow only the pigs to come in to 
 the troughs by lowering board No. 3, 
 as shown on figure, to the right 
 height. 
 
 The gate "A" works up and down 
 in the slots between the regular fence 
 posts C-P and auxiliaries D-X and 
 operated by the lever B, which can be 
 fastened at O with a loop of wire. 
 To avoid trouble, it is best to drop the 
 gate A some time before the hour for 
 feeding arrives. If the hogs get the 
 habit of raising the gate, it can be 
 remedied by a couple of hooks on the 
 posts C-P. 
 
 'SHOWING SLOT AT C-D-P-X 
 C D 
 
 I A.TOULIFR0(£i)-VIROqUA,WlS, 
 
 A. ToUifrou's Feeding- Gate. A is compact board gate working up and down in slots. 
 1-7 are boards of regular fence. F is gravity center of gate where lever B is 
 bolted. 
 
 Seventy 
 
PART II 
 
 Feeding Trough 
 
 The man who slops his hogs or 
 feeds them out of a trough knows 
 that it is a difficult job. But this sim- 
 ple arrangement will be found indis- 
 pensable after it is given a trial. 
 
 0.S.OER.MU«i 
 ClAVTON MO. 
 
 Build the trough in the fence of 
 your hog lot. For the top, use a 
 2x8 plank. Then, place the gate so 
 that, it will swing clear, using inch 
 boards. Nail a cleat on each post so 
 that the gate cannot be pushed past 
 the trough. The strap iron shown 
 is so shaped that it will fit in the 
 trough, and lock the hogs out while 
 you prepare the feed, or clean out 
 the trough, or allow them access to 
 the trough. I consider this trough the 
 most handiest device I have in my hog 
 lot. 
 
 This Stops Spilled Slop 
 
 H.D.VAN MATRE, HIBXILETOWN. IND. 
 
 This device is a gate suspended over 
 the slopping trough, and by means of 
 a piece of strap iron with two loops 
 in it, the gate can be so placed that 
 the hogs cannot have access while it 
 is being filled, when No. 1 loop is 
 
 hooked over the edge of the trough. 
 While the hogs are drinking, No. 2 
 loop is hooked over the edge of the 
 trough. You will find this will save 
 dirty clothes spotted with slop be- 
 sides not a little "cussing." 
 
 Seventy-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Another Good Hog Trough 
 
 J. C BOSTWICK 
 HOYT, KANS. 
 
 I make a V-shaped hog trough any 
 length up to 16 feet out of 2 inch 
 plank, one 2x8 and one 2x10, then I 
 make a box by using two pieces of 
 1x12 board 18 inches long and with a 
 drawing knife trim off each side of 
 the trough and nail on the two boards. 
 Then nail the cross boards to each 
 of the 18 inch boards and leave the 
 end open thru which you pour the. 
 
 slop. This end of the trough should 
 be somewhat higher than the other 
 end so that the slop will run freely 
 thru the trough. Do not put any 
 cross pieces on the trough to be in 
 the way. 
 
 I can feed forty shotes or 20 av- 
 erage size hogs in a 12 foot trough of 
 this kind and never do I have to fight 
 them away. 
 
 A Convenient Hog Trough 
 
 JAMES NJSSLEV 
 PENiaeRTON, OHIO 
 
 The hog trough shown in the 
 drawing above is very convenient as 
 it can be used near the fence or in 
 a lot among the pigs, and the pigs 
 cannot interfere with the hog man in 
 pouring the slop into the trough. 
 
 The upright is a piece of wooden 
 
 pump stock 3 or syi feet high nailed 
 in the trough so as to let the slop 
 out on each side. An old wash pan 
 is nailed on the top of the pump 
 stock with a hole in bottom, thru 
 which the slop is poured into the 
 trough. 
 
 Seventy-two 
 
PART II 
 
 A Hog House Trough 
 
 This hog house trough is for slop 
 and dry feed, and I find it a feeding 
 device that is very convenient, as it is 
 always ready for use. 
 
 "A," as will be seen by the sketch, 
 is a 1x12 oak board. "B" is a 1x13 
 oak board set in at an angle extend- 
 ing down between the posts from the 
 bottom of board "A" to within two 
 inches of the top and an inch or two 
 below the aisle board "D." The board 
 "B" directs the slop or dry feed into 
 the trough. 
 
 "C" is a 2x6 oak plank with hole in 
 bottom to set on iron pin in cement 
 base about four inches wide. This 
 plank extends upward to ceiling. 
 These posts can be set as close to- 
 
 gether as desired; mine are about 
 8 feet apart. I also have shift parti- 
 tions, and use these troughs at far- 
 rowing time. The partitions can be 
 removed and the entire floor can be 
 used for feeding hogs. , 
 
 "D" is a 1x12 oak board set with 
 bottom edge a little over back edge 
 of trough. This guides the slop and 
 feed into the trough in front of the 
 pig's nose. 
 
 "E" is a cement trough nine inches 
 on the aisle side, 13 inches wide and 
 6 inches on the pen side. The inside 
 of the trough is made with a form, 
 and is shaped before the cement sets; 
 1 to 3 cement and fine sand is used. 
 
 Seventy-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Trough That Pigs Like 
 
 I have a hog trough that works to a 
 frazzle. Every hog man knows the 
 trouble he has slopping a bunch of 
 healthy shoats when he has to go into 
 the pen to pour the slop. With the 
 
 high side of the trough sticking under 
 the fence a few inches, the pail can be 
 emptied without the operator being 
 overrun with pigs. This is very simple, 
 but at the same time very valuable. 
 
 WAT30N, MO. 
 
 A Sanitary Trough 
 
 To make the above described trough 
 take two planks 1x12 twelve feet long 
 and nail them together in a half square. 
 Take two 1x12 two foot long boards 
 
 and nail to the ends. Nail strips 1x3 
 inches across the top. Attach wire as 
 shown above. No. 9 wire will answer 
 the purpose. 
 
 Seventy-four 
 
PART II 
 
 A Hog Trough 
 
 Material required for making this 
 trough is as follows : Two 3x8 10 ft. 
 long for sides; 1 2x12 14 ft. long for 
 the bottom and ends; one 2x4 11 ft. 
 long for top guard; one J4x8-inch but- 
 ton with couter pin ; and four J4xl6 in. 
 
 bolts for ends of trough. Mortise hole 
 in one end of two by four, use pin bolt 
 in the other end. The guard may be 
 easily removed in cleaning trough and 
 prevents the hogs from wallowing in it. 
 
 e. O. ETTER, 
 
 SPARKS. NEBR 
 
 An Ideal Hog Trough 
 
 This hog trough doesn't need con- 
 siderable description regarding its 
 construction, as the sketch on the next 
 page makes all details very plain. 
 
 The trough can be made any length 
 desired, and the beauty of it is you 
 need no fence around it, as the hopper 
 
 extends the full length of the trough. 
 You can dump in a bucket of slop at 
 once without spilling and without 
 getting it all over the hog's head. 
 The hogs cannot get their feet in the 
 trough. 
 
 The gable is bolted on the main 
 trough or the V in the center, using 
 
 Seventy-jive 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 two wagon box straps. The main 
 body is supported with braces made 
 from old wagon tires; these are bolted 
 on the inside of the trough. Two of 
 them are sufficient on a ten or twelve 
 foot trough, but three are necessary 
 for the sixteen feet length. 
 
 This trough is especially valuable 
 
 for the poorly equipped hog farm be- 
 cause it is very economical and sani- 
 tary, and there is no waste in using 
 it. It can be moved about from yard 
 to yard by tacking two fence boards 
 on the bottom, using these as skids. 
 Such a trough will last indefinitely if 
 properly constructed. 
 
 The Ideal Hog- Trough Descrlhed 
 Above, by A, N. Vogue 
 
 A Feeder for Hogs 
 
 I present a plan of a feeder that I 
 have used for a number of years, find- 
 ing it very satisfactory. It proves 
 equally satisfactory with slop and dry 
 feed. In feeding slop one can feed it 
 without the pigs getting into the pail. 
 
 Neither is it necessary to smear the pigs 
 with slop. 
 
 I make these feeders sixteen feet long. 
 I use three lx8's, D. & M., 8 in. for the 
 bottom, with seven 2x4 22-inch long 
 cross-pieces; two 2x4's for the sides; 
 
 Seventy-six 
 

 
 PART II 
 
 
 
 iXS 
 
 
 
 // 
 
 V^-ft=t^ T-^^:^ '^C?^ , 
 
 - 
 
 
 ^ \ 1X8 
 
 1 
 
 / 
 
 r^^^^te==y 
 
 
 Kt/ 
 
 ^"^^jy!::^ 
 
 X 
 
 1 IM_, 1 ^ ■■■ «»— ' ^ 
 
 ^Jax, 
 
 
 
 %=' l6 - C.R.. PINNEY, ARMOUR, S.D. 
 
 
 and two 2x6's for the ends; four 2x8s 
 two feet long for uprights in chute ; and 
 four lx8s D. & M. eight inches for 
 chute. 
 
 Have the lumber perfectly dry; cut 
 the cross-pieces and nail the bottom 
 boards firmly to them. Then nail the 
 bottom to the 8x4 sides and fit in the 
 ends. Shape the four 2x8 uprights eight 
 inches wide at the upper end and three 
 inches at three inches from the lower 
 end. This makes the chute three inches 
 
 wide at three inches from the bottom of 
 the trough. Spike the end uprights to 
 the end cross-pieces and toenail the two 
 center ones to the bottom above the 
 cross-pieces. Then the thing is done, 
 and if care has been taken in its mak- 
 ing, this trough should be water-tight 
 with a little soaking. I always bore a 
 hole in one end and set that end a trifle 
 lower to permit cleaning out the trough 
 and to allow the draining of rain water. 
 
 A Convenient Trough 
 
 H.E.COEMBEL 
 PR0PHET3T0WN 
 
 For feeding and slopping pigs I use 
 a flat bottom trough made of a foot 
 plank, for the bottom 2x6 nailed on the 
 side of plai^ and slanted out a little 
 
 at the top; fit in the ends and spike 
 securely. Then cut two-foot boards 20 
 inches long to stand upright in ends of 
 trough, and two 8-inch boards same 
 
 Sevenfy'Seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 length as trough placed in "V" shape 
 over trough and nailed to end boards 
 with upper outside edge at upper cor- 
 ners of end upright boards and bottom 
 of "V" about 6 inches apart. Then 
 cut from 6-inch fencing pieces to nail 
 to outside of "V" and notched to set 
 on edge of trough 7 inches apart. 
 This gives each pig a fair chance and 
 
 I find I have many less runts than any 
 other plan I have seen. I have two of 
 these troughs 20 feet long and that will 
 accommodate 100 pigs. I place a couple 
 of boards to walk on across the top of 
 these feeders and do not need to "scrap" 
 with the pigs, as I can put the slop in 
 troughs anywhere through these "V" 
 shaped boards the length of the trough. 
 
 A Water Boiler Hog Trough 
 
 A first-class hog trough can be 
 made from hot water boilers (as 
 shown by the sketch below) which 
 often crack from some cause, and are 
 of no value to the junk man. When 
 cut in two pieces, you have two 
 splendid hog troughs. If there is no 
 discarded boiler on your place, go to 
 the junk man — they can be bought 
 for fifty cents. 
 
 ' BART ». .STITH , ELIZ*BETHTOWN , KY, 
 
 Seventy-eighi 
 
PART II 
 
 A Handy Slop Chute 
 
 Nail four boards, 1x10 inches 3 feet 
 long toegther in a square. Stand one 
 end in the trough and nail against a 
 post securely. Pour the slop thru the 
 chute into the trough. You can do this 
 without getting the slop on your clothes. 
 
 An Individual Slop Pan 
 
 The sketch below shows an indi- 
 vidual slop pan that I have used with 
 great success for a number of years. 
 It is made from 18 gauge galvanized 
 
 tin, reinforced by quarter inch rods 
 around the top, the tin being bent 
 over the rod. I have had 800-pound 
 hogs lie on this kind of a pan without 
 
 Seventy-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 any damage being done, and I have 
 used the same pan for eight years. 
 
 I use this pan quite extensively for 
 sows and pigs, and I find that the 
 pigs will learn to drink a week or 
 two sooner than when they are forced 
 to climb over the edge of a high 
 
 trough. The pan is also very con- 
 venient to rid of ice when water 
 freezes in it; just lift up and let it fall 
 top side down and the ice drops out. 
 It is also handy to carry from one 
 place to another. I had the tinsmith 
 make these pans to order. 
 
 A Home-Made Self Feeder 
 
 _-.H. TIFFANY 
 niDDLEBUBG, VA 
 
 The sketch shows a roughly con- 
 structed self-feeder with three bins 
 attached. This can be attached to 
 either inside or outside of hog house. 
 The three bins are separate, and each 
 is provided with a sliding door to 
 
 regulate the feed. I find the bins 
 save both labor and feed, and help 
 the farmer to make more economical 
 gains on his hogs; 60 ft. of one-inch 
 plank is the bill of material; time, 
 two hours; material cost, about $8.50. 
 
 Eighty 
 
PART n 
 
 Revolving Hog Feeder 
 
 -- -s 
 
 ?#^. '^^ t£-, /-J^ «^^^'^ iV"-.^'" 
 
 
 
 Fred Knop, Charter Oak, Iowa, has found this revolving hog feeder a very service- 
 able Item of equipment 
 
 I evolved a revolving hog feeder 
 this winter and it works like a top. 
 It not only gives them feed, but gives 
 each hog an opportunity to work for 
 his living, and it is suprising to see 
 them stand there for hours exercising 
 for their food. It is the most useful 
 invention I ever had on the farm. 
 
 The feeder shown is 16 feet long, 
 the trough below the hopper is 18 
 inches wide and aj^ inches ' igh. The 
 feed hopper is made about 4 inches 
 shorter than the trough so that it fits 
 exactly between the two end boards. 
 The feed hopper consists of eight 
 
 lx4's nailed on an octagon-shaped 
 board, one of which is allowed to 
 slide in order that feed may be put 
 in. The octagonal boards are put 
 in four feet apart, on which there is 
 a square loop to provide for removing 
 the loose board. Thru the center of 
 the hopper there is a half inch gas 
 pipe extending thru the end boards in 
 holes cut 18 inches from the trough. 
 A crack of about one-eighth inch 
 must be left between the lx4's to per- 
 mit the feed to fall out when the 
 hopper is rooted around by the hogs. 
 
 Eighty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Pig Feeder 
 
 ENNeS BECKHAM, 
 JULPHUR SPRINSS. ttHAS, 
 
 I give you a description of what I 
 call a first class pig feeder. It is an 
 invention of my own and no doubt 
 will be of value to others. I find it is 
 a very convenient apparatus, for feed- 
 ing and handling pigs. , This feeder 
 is especially useful at weaning time 
 when it becomes necessary to give 
 special attention to the feeding of the 
 pigs in order to prevent stunting. 
 The holes in the front of the apparatus 
 admit the pigs and keep the larger 
 hogs out, thus keeping the larger hogs 
 from mashing the pigs and also from 
 eating the pigs' feed. 
 
 To use it, cut a small gap in the 
 fence where the hogs are enclosed 
 and put the feeder on the outside of 
 the fence with the front of it in the 
 gap in the fence. This enables you 
 to feed the pigs without getting in the 
 pen with the hogs. There is a drop 
 
 door in front of the feeder which may 
 be dropped down over the entrance 
 to shut the pigs up if you want to 
 catch them. The feeder also has many 
 other advantages which I will not 
 mention. 
 
 To construct it, first make a flat 
 wooden box any size you wish. Be 
 sure to have it large enough for a 
 trough and have room for your pigs. 
 Leave one of the flat sides open for 
 the top and cover this with poultry 
 wire, leaving a door through which to 
 put the feed. Then cut your holes in 
 the front of the box for your pigs to 
 go through. Now make a drop door 
 for closing the holes. This gives a 
 wooden floor to feed the pigs on and 
 may be moved from one hog pen to 
 another. This, I think, is the handiest 
 thing that I have ever seen for 
 handling pigs. 
 
 Eighty-two 
 
PART II 
 
 Inexpensive But Practical Hog Waterer 
 
 One of the handiest things I have 
 on the farm for the comfort and 
 good of the hogs is a very simple 
 hog waterer which is inexpensive aad 
 practical and can be installed for four 
 or five dollars. It is very useful 
 the year round if placed in a protected 
 place, and can be attached to any 
 supply tank or common drinking tank. 
 The barrel in Fig. 1 must have a 
 small pen around it and covered with 
 straw and stable manure to prevent 
 freezing. On real cold mornings, it 
 will be necessary to break the ice, 
 and if there are many hogs, they will 
 
 keep it open all day no matter how 
 cold. A circular one inch board must 
 be fastened to the cross pieces shown 
 in Fig. 4 around the inside of the 
 barrel to keep the pigs from drowning 
 when small. 
 
 Barrel No. 2 can be placed any- 
 where, but a position where the 
 lot fence can run across barrel is 
 preferable, for in this way hogs can 
 be watered on both sides. I have 
 tried these for seven years and would 
 not think of doing without this meth- 
 od of watering my stock. 
 
 FIG. 4 
 
 W. E. STANCLIFFE 
 ALEDO, ILL. 
 
 W. B. StanoUffe's Watering System. 
 
 Eighty-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Cement for Water Troughs 
 
 -BOARD OVER END 
 
 CONCRETE FORM 
 
 J^ A. HESS 
 YORKSHIRE. O. 
 
 I want to tell of an easy way to 
 make cement water or slop troughs 
 Make your form of boards 15 in. 
 wide and dig trough or- foundation 
 out 15 in. deep and as long as you 
 desire the trough to be. Board up 
 the form and slush in cement and 
 sand three and one, and then use 
 eight-inch tile for your form. After 
 you get it half full of cement, lay 
 tile in and put a board at end of tile. 
 Fix the tile so that half of it is above 
 the top surface of the trough. Slush 
 in with cement, and leave tile in until 
 the cement has set a little. Then 
 remove the tile and you have a nice 
 round bottom in the trough. I find 
 such a trough very easy to clean. 
 
 Automatic Hog Waterer 
 
 In making this hog waterer, con- 
 nect a supply tank on the farm which 
 has fresh water in it always and has 
 fall enough to get the water to the 
 hog, with a common barrel in the 
 ground by means of an inch pipe run 
 three feet underground. Use a float 
 in the barrel to regulate the flow of 
 water into this receptacle. Then con- 
 nect the barrel with a trough on the 
 level with the water edge, using one 
 about one foot wide, ten inches deep 
 and about three feet long, so several 
 
 hogs can drink at the same time. 
 When desired, one end of the trough 
 can be put through a fence and allow 
 two bunches of hogs to drink from 
 the same place at one time. 
 
 This is the best method of water- 
 ing hogs that I know of. It saves its 
 cost many times, and is especially 
 convenient when you are away from 
 home, for no matter how late you re- 
 turn, the pigs always have water be- 
 fore them. 
 
 Eighty-four 
 
Hog Houses 
 and Pens 
 
 -rir— Rn— m^iii^Hir— HH— NN— IK— NN— an— ^M^an-^ii— Hii^ii ■*i»— iih— mt^yi-^i^ i 
 
PART II 
 
 Sun Brooder for Early Pigs 
 
 I have found the brooder shown by 
 the drawing here to be very val- 
 uable to me, and I recommend it to 
 every breeder of hogs whether he has 
 a heated building or not, for there is 
 nothing equal to the sun's rays for 
 growing pigs. 
 
 A frame was built just like a hot 
 bed, the lower side being one foot 
 high and the upper two feet high. 
 The frame was built tight so that no 
 cold air could get thru the cracks, 
 and storm windows were placed on 
 top, hinged to the upper side so they 
 could be raised a little if the air got 
 too foul. 
 
 This brooder was fastened to the 
 hog house on a level with the floor. 
 A creep was cut, just large enough 
 for the litle pigs to pass thru, in 
 the wall of the hog house and plenty 
 of clean dry straw placed in the 
 brooder. 
 
 It was surely a pleasure to watch 
 the little fellows stretch out in their 
 warm nest. When the old sows would 
 call them, they would all run to their 
 meals and then back to their sun par- 
 lors. 
 
 I believe it is worth any man's 
 money to build something of this sort 
 if he is farrowing pigs in early spring. 
 
 A sun brooder for early pigs used 
 \>Y R. W. Hodgson, Rushmore, Minn. 
 
 I regret that the pigs shown in the 
 picture were white; it was taken be- 
 fore I came into the Duroc ranks. 
 
 Eighty-seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A House That Keeps 'Em Warm in Winter 
 
 FRANK jROMMERT 
 NEW PETERSBURG , O 
 
 CEMENT FLOOB 
 
 This is an illustration of a farrow- 
 ing pen for sows in bad weather. The 
 boxes in my opinion are about the 
 right size, but can be made any size. 
 The shed can be any length and par- 
 titioned to suit the builder. A con- 
 crete floor divided into sections (one 
 for each stall) is built in front of the 
 shed and the sow is fed on this floor. 
 There is also a door in the rear of 
 each stall where bedding can be taken 
 out or put in while the sow is eating 
 on the floor outside. The roof is 
 framed with a ridge pole and the sash 
 are hinged to this, being raised at the 
 
 eaves when ventilation is necessary; 
 concrete feeding floor is fenced and 
 divided with gates, making a sepa- 
 rate feeding space for each sow. 
 
 A house to store feed and bedding 
 can be built at one end and may be 
 provided with a stove or cooker to 
 make warm slop and the smoke pipe 
 may be carried through the shed high 
 enough for the sows to walk under 
 and connects with a flue at the far end. 
 A drum in the pipe for each stall 
 would keep pigs from freezing in any 
 weather. 
 
 Eighty-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 A Sunshine Hog House and Crowding Board 
 
 
 Figure No. 2. The Crowding Board 
 
 Fig. 1 shows my sunshine hog 
 house made with 3x6 oak runner and 
 8x4 frame, covered with ship lap sid- 
 ing (14-foot siding is used). I find 
 this a great house for little pigs, as 
 they can always get a sun bath in the 
 cold weather. This house is very 
 handy for the hog man, as he can 
 enter to clean it out without diffi- 
 culty. 
 
 Fig. 3 shows a crowding board on 
 T hinges, which I use in my hog 
 houses. It can be let down at far- 
 rowing time and raised when the 
 house is used for the larger hogs, 
 making a great deal more room. It 
 should be made from a board V-Aif-t 
 inches wide, and the board should be 
 of hardwood so that it will hold the 
 
 Figure No. 1. A Sunshine Hog House 
 
 Bighty-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Farrowing House With Pen 
 
 A farrowing house like the one 
 shown in the accompanying illustra- 
 tion is built six feet square, using 
 2x4 studding for frame and siding, 
 with six-inch flooring. The frame is 
 made 30 in. high on back side, 4 ft. 
 in front, which faces south and is 
 left open. The other three sides are 
 sided, making a good, warm house. 
 
 The pen is made 6x10 ft. in front of 
 the house, with a door in the end to 
 
 shut the pigs in to ring or catch them. 
 To make the frame cut two posts 30 
 in. long, two 4 ft. long, and eleven nail 
 ties 6 ft. long, spiking them to posts, 
 three on the back, three on each and 
 two in front, putting one at the top 
 and one high enough for a sow to 
 walk under. 
 
 I keep my sows in a separate lot, 
 one sow in each, and use iron troughs, 
 only, which I think is the best. 
 
 tt.W. KINNEV 
 fiOORESVILl-E I NO. 
 
 House and Pen for Herd Boar or Farrowing Sow 
 
 I give a description and plant of a 
 bungalow and pen which I think is 
 not excelled for comfort and safety 
 for the herd boar. The complete 
 construction of same requires 450 feet 
 of lumber, six fence posts 7 feet long, 
 a pair of strap hinges, 10 pounds 8 
 penny nails, one pound spikes, two 
 
 pounds shingle nails, 800 shingles. 
 The house requires 150 feet of lumber 
 13 feet long for siding 60 feet lum- 
 ber 8 feet long for floor; one plank 
 Sx6 la feet long, one plank 2x6 8 feet 
 long for lower nail ties and sleeper 
 for floor; the end nail ties serve for 
 end sleepers; four 2x4s 10 feet long 
 
 Ninety 
 
PART II 
 
 MARTIN BEHL 
 
 MARTtMSVILLB, ILL 
 
 for rafters, the two outside rafters 
 used for nail ties; one 3x4 IS feet long 
 and one 2x4 6 feet long for plates and 
 nail tie. The house is 6x8x6j4 feet 
 high at front, 4 feet in rear. Two 
 feet down from roof in front a nail 
 tie is set in and weatherboarding is 
 used 2 feet long, except at corners 
 where a board extends to floor, 1 foot 
 wide, making the entrance 4x4 feet. 
 Use 17 lath 14 feet long for shingling. 
 Just inside building above entrance is 
 a shelf 18 inches wide used for bale 
 of straw and a sack of corn to feed. 
 
 The pen at the front is 7x12 feet. 
 The two posts at building are just out- 
 side the corners flush with end of 
 building. Posts are set 3 feet in the 
 ground. Ten boards 1x6 13 feefr long 
 are used for sides of pen, and 5 boards 
 
 1x6 8 feet long for gate. If the build- 
 ing and pen are located permanently, 
 nail boards to posts and hang gate to 
 post. If they are to be moved about, 
 the sides should be made as the gate 
 and wired to posts. The gate should 
 be hung on side gate so as to he 
 folded for moving. To fasten gate, 
 use wire at top and bottom. As a far- 
 rowing pen this serves the purpose 
 admirably. 
 
 The boar pen should be placed in a 
 large lot on opposite side from where 
 he is fed, facing south. I move the 
 buildings and pen where needed for 
 sows to farrow in and sleeping 
 quarters for hogs. When I leave home 
 I leave the boar locked in pen and 
 then I know where he will be when I 
 return. 
 
 Ninety-onr 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Houses and Pens for Sows and Litter 
 
 When farrowing time comes in the 
 spring and we have a large number of 
 sows to take care of, it is always quite 
 a problem to figure out some method 
 of handling them. 
 
 The plan that I am presenting has 
 been used a great many years with 
 success. The illustration shows my 
 arrangement of houses and pens. 
 
 Take 6-inch fencing plank 14 to 16 
 feet long and make a square pen. For 
 posts I use 2x4s, standing them on 
 end and nailing boards on sides, mak- 
 
 ing the pen four boards high. On this 
 pen I join four others, as shown by 
 the diagram. On the outside corners 
 of the four pens I place the houses. 
 This arrangement makes room for 
 four sows that will farrow near the 
 same time. Each sow will have her 
 own pen to run in, and they will be 
 quite a distance apart. The hog houses 
 will be set with the high side to the 
 south. (I like the house with the roof 
 sloping one way.) The high side of 
 this house is 6 feet and it is 4 feet 6 
 
 -_, ' — ,^ 
 
 ^6E^ Vf'i} 
 
 ) 
 CREtP 
 
 HOUSE- 
 
 «EEPS 
 
 H06 HOUSE- 
 
 O.W.BuiichdUtr' 
 
 w-|-e 
 
 Ninety-two 
 
PART II 
 
 inches at the eaves, making an 18-inch 
 fall. I use the Rubberoid roofing. 
 
 The floor space is 6x8 feet with a 
 door on the south side just below the 
 roof. This door runs across the build- 
 ing and is 5 feet long and 2 feet wide. 
 The door can be let down in nice 
 weather, which will allow the sun to 
 shine on the pigs. The door thru 
 which the hogs run should be at the 
 east end of the house. 
 
 The house is built on two 4x4 run- 
 ners and can be moved from place to 
 place. This plan of hog pens can be 
 moved about from field to field along 
 with the houses. 
 
 It will be seen by the sketch that 
 there are creeps on all four sides of 
 the middle pen and on one side of the 
 four outside pens. At an early age 
 these pigs will go into the lots with 
 their dams and very soon will find 
 
 each other and have their little scraps 
 and then make up. It will be an easy 
 matter to get them to eat in their 
 pens, and my, how they do grow! 
 Raising pigs with such an arrange- 
 ment of pens and houses will elimi- 
 nate many of your runts, as the litters 
 will know their own mothers, which 
 prevents their robbing one another. 
 
 The creeps on the outsid« of the 
 outer pens is to allow pigs that may 
 be running in the same field to go in 
 and out. This will save a great deal 
 of work for hog men, especially those 
 who have recently gone into the hog 
 business, as the new man is usually 
 crowded for room. 
 
 For hauling my slop and feed to the 
 sows and pigs, I use a small sled with 
 a barrel fastened on it. This is drawn 
 by a horse. 
 
 Colony House and Pen for the Pigs 
 
 This hog house and pen has, in my 
 estimation, been most satisfactory 
 and economic in all ways. 
 
 The box is made of % siding. First 
 make a square base 6 feet by 6 feet 
 and 6 inches high. The slant and 
 beam are made of 2 x 4 studding. 
 The height of the box from the 
 ground to the cone of the roof is 
 four feet. The front door should be 
 cut aa inches x 20 inches and hang so 
 that it will swing around to the right. 
 A small door 10 inches x 14 inches is 
 cut in the back 18 inches from the 
 ground. This, opened in spring and 
 
 summer, furnishes a chance for air 
 circulation in the house. Wooden 
 buttons hold these doors shut. 
 
 Make a platform of flooring 6 feet 
 4 inches x 6 feet 4 inches. In the 
 winter and spring this should be set 
 right on to the ground, naturally 
 drained, so that no wind or air cur- 
 rents can circulate under it to keep 
 the floor cold. Place the box on this 
 platform and bed with straw. The 
 approximate cost of this box and 
 platform is eight dollars. 
 
 Next, construct a board run 5 feet 
 X 6 feet 6 inches in front of the box 
 
 Ninety-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 riAJiT b. n&coy , wAAMiNarON. C.H., ONiO- 
 
 of any boards which one happens to 
 have handy. This keeps the pigs off 
 the ground and yet gives them access 
 to some exercise, air and sunshine. 
 A fence of rough boards of any kind 
 in front and at the side of each box 
 keeps each sovir and litter separately. 
 I have had as many as twenty of 
 these houses and pens in one colony. 
 I raised 2.25 pigs last spring and my 
 loss was very slight. 
 
 These boxes are very easily kept 
 
 free from vermin and filth. The proc- 
 esses of feeding is not such a bug- 
 bear with this arrangement. I have 
 a slop cart which I drive along in 
 front of each box or colony. Another 
 good feature is that it is portable and 
 can be changed to other quarters 
 without much trouble, and can be 
 used at all seasons of the year. I 
 have always had better success in 
 saving and caring for my pigs in this 
 way than in any other. 
 
 A Cheap Movable Farrowing House 
 
 T t. KINNEY , WOHTH ADAn^. fllC 
 
 HOG MOUic raAne 
 
 This hog house is 7 feet square on 
 the ground with two uprights 2x4 at 
 each end and one running around the 
 outside about half way up the side, so 
 the sides cannot be pushed off from 
 the inside. Leave a ventilation hole at 
 each end of the peak. This could be 
 closed in extra cold weather. Cover this 
 with matched lumber. 
 
 Ninety-foHr 
 
PART II 
 
 The Wigwam Hog House 
 
 For an ordinary sow lay a floor 7 
 feet square on four hedge poles. Most 
 any kind of lumber will do as it is in 
 the dry. Nail the roofing boards on 
 the sides the way the floor poles run, 
 and extend them 3 inches over the edge 
 of the floor. Use long nails to go thru 
 
 the floor boards to catch in poles. 
 About the middle on the inside nail a 
 1x4 to hold the boards together. End 
 up the back end with ship-lap, leaving 
 a 4 or 5 inch opening at the top for 
 ventilation. Set up 2x4's in front end 
 as wide as you want your door. Then 
 put on ship-lap to the height you want 
 the door. Cleat and saw out the door. 
 If more sun is desired you could cut 
 window above the door. On back end, 
 on the inside, nail a 2x6 across about 
 10 inches from the floor, so the young 
 pigs can get behind this to be kept 
 from being crowded by the sow. 
 
 Portable "A" Shaped Hog House 
 
 The two drawings show the details 
 of my A-shaped portable hog houses 
 in which my brood sows farrow. I 
 am using these in my business for 
 early farrowing, and I find that a 
 larger percentage of pigs can be raised 
 with less trouble to the breeder. 
 
 Oru J. tliller 
 Delhi , Iowa.. 
 
 Such houses are easily constructed, 
 cheaply built, and with proper care 
 will last for years. They can be lined 
 up in a row and banked with straw 
 on the back side and in between the 
 houses which makes them very warm 
 even during the coldest days. A gal- 
 
 Nineiy-five 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 vanized ventilator and window makes 
 the house healthy for the dam and 
 litter. 
 
 When the pigs are a few days old, 
 the pens in front may be used by the 
 youngsters, which insures that they 
 receive a good amount of fresh air, 
 sunshine and exercise. If my pigs fail 
 to take exercise in these pens, I force 
 them to do so by driving them. 
 
 The cost of this house at present 
 prices of lumber is about $15, com- 
 plete, without the pen. The house can 
 be drawn by a team of horses to your 
 
 warmest location. I find that they 
 are splendid for brood sows to sleep 
 in before farrowing. Three or four 
 can sleep in each house, and they will 
 not pile up on cold nights. The only 
 trouble with this house is that there 
 are not more of them in use. Build 
 one of them and you will build more. 
 
 Orii J. Miller 
 Delhi, low4. 
 
 A Portable Lot 
 
 irrvrr. npDvCNfoa. va- 
 
 The material required to make this 
 portable fence or lot is sixteen pieces 
 of plank 8 feet long; 6x1 inch for the 
 sides ; eight pieces of plank 3 feet long, 
 6x1 inch for the corner strips, four 
 pairs of hinges, four sets of hooks, 
 staples and nails for the two divisions 
 or whole lot. 
 
 Ninety-six 
 
PART II 
 
 10X12 
 FEED ROOM 
 
 -A 
 
 8X12 
 
 PEN 
 
 
 8Xr2 
 
 PEN 
 
 8X12 
 PEN 
 
 8X12 
 PEN 
 
 IZLriAZj 
 
 II FEED II TROUGHS 1 1 
 
 PLATFORM IN FRONT a-^FTWlDE-. 
 
 AAA — doors; CCC — offset 8 Inches wide around pens to prevent pigs from being 
 mashed. This house is used by Earl H. Tiffany, Middleburg, Virginia. 
 
 Farrowing House 
 
 The building as sketched above is 
 spendid for winter farrowing. Fac- 
 injg the south, it is comfortable in the 
 coldest weather; it furnishes plenty 
 of sunshine, good ventilation and 
 
 never becomes damp. The building is 
 50 feet long and 12J4 feet wide. The 
 material requirements are 1,200 feet 
 of plank and 500 feet of 2x4s. The 
 cost is about $125. 
 
 Ninety-seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Farrowing Pen and Colony House 
 
 A properly designed and well built 
 farrowing pen and colony house is 
 well nigh indispensable on a farm 
 where hogs are raised. 
 
 The average pen designed to fill 
 this need is too cheap, dangerous, 
 and a makeshift. There are few farms 
 where a good farrowing pen will not 
 pay for itself each season. One good 
 pig six months old will pay for one 
 twice over. 
 
 The colony house and_ farrowing 
 pen illustrated, we think, cannot 
 be improved on. It contains about 
 every good feature we have ever 
 seen, and is just as we have used 
 it in recent years. It gives the maker 
 latitude as to length, width and 
 height. A pane of glass can be put 
 in the peak of the gable or not. The 
 house should be well built of good 
 material and painted, as it is a valu- 
 able piece of hog farm furniture. 
 
 The essentials are: 
 
 Foundation — Skids of 2x4x8 feet, 
 laid flat and rounded up at the ends. 
 
 Floor — One inch sound boards, no 
 unsound, knots, shakes or sap. 
 
 Uprights — 2x4s, three on a side, and 
 one at middle of rear end and one 
 each side of end door. 2x4 plates and 
 2x4 in roof peak. 
 
 Enclosed — With six-inch drop sid- 
 ing. Do not use wider siding, as it 
 will shrink and allow cracks between 
 boards. 
 
 Roof — Rain and windproof. We use 
 good matched pine flooring. With 
 the opening in the end to the east, 
 the door in the roof will be on the 
 south side. You cannot very well 
 make this door too large, as we want 
 lots of sunlight. The caretaker can 
 enter thru this roof door without 
 
 ' i. 8' 
 
 J. J. Jones finds this farrowing: pen combines all ^ood features. 
 
 Ninety-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 the danger of being caught in the 
 doorway by an excited hog rushing 
 in or out. The roof door permits sun- 
 light in all parts of the pen and easy 
 access at all times, and this is espe- 
 cially valuable at farrowing time and 
 feeding time, and means a consider- 
 able increase in percentage of pigs 
 raised to litter. 
 
 While using this style pen, we had 
 an average of nine living pigs per 
 litter. We made a considerable move 
 and were permitted the use of a bunch 
 of A-shape pens. Our sows dropped 
 just as many pigs, but we raised on 
 average of two less pigs to the litter. 
 This multiplied by sixteen sows meant 
 a considerable loss. We have listened 
 to men of wide reputation as hog 
 breeders ridicule the idea of a guard 
 rail on the theory properly fitted sows 
 
 need no attention at farrowing time, 
 that the natural sow mother will go 
 a-jvay into the woods and heap up a 
 pile of leaves and come home in a 
 few days with a 100 per cent litter. 
 
 We have seen that done, but we 
 are not now raising hogs under those 
 conditions, but a highly specialized 
 hog under artificial conditions that 
 requires that the herdsman get all 
 around the sow and, if need be, close 
 the door after him, and hang up his 
 lantern and camp for all night 
 thru rain and snowstorm. 
 
 Nail 2x4 pieces horizontal to the 
 studding, the pieces 7 and 8 inches up 
 from the floor. Nail guard rail to this 
 as per cut. Rail can be of 8x4 stuff. 
 This pen can be moved around read- 
 ily. 
 
 A Portable Hog Pen 
 
 This is a portable pen that can be 
 taken down in sections as shown here- 
 with. To make this pen requires no 
 special mechanical ingenuity, but only 
 a little ca're and plenty of "elbow 
 grease." These pens can be made in 
 any size desired, but the description 
 given here is for a pen 9x12 feet, made 
 in two separate pens by the addition 
 of a cross section. To make this pen 
 will require the following bill of lum- 
 ber, which should be dressed and 
 sized so as to make a neater fit: 
 
 13 pes. ^ inch by 6^ inches by 18 
 feet, for boards. 
 
 18 pes. f4 inch by 6^ inches by B 
 feet, for boards. 
 
 44 pes. J4 inch by 3 inches by 44 
 inches, for stiles. 
 
 4 pes. ^ inch by 3 inches by 89^ 
 inches, for gates. 
 
 8 pes. H inch by 6}4 inches by 84 
 inches, for gates. 
 
 4 pes. 2 inches by 3 inches by 44 
 inches rabbeted, 1 inch wide and 1 
 inch deep. 
 
 To make this pen for the back, 
 place the top and bottom boards on 
 three inch strips 44 inches long (A 
 and B), having the left hand ends 
 above and flush with the stiles, the 
 right hand ends being under and ex- 
 tending iyi inches beyond the itilei. 
 
 Ninety-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 a 
 a 
 
 h 
 A 
 
 (d 
 
 fi 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 (81 
 
 
 (» BOARD 3/1 *.S^'/>.- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' ' , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1. ■ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 .' 
 
 
 ® 
 
 P. 
 
 n L7 
 
 FIG. 5 
 
 FRONT '''C =■ '■""■ 
 
 ROSS V. BUSH CAMILLA . GA. 
 
 A Convenient Portable Pen that Ross V. Bush of Camilla, Georgia, finds mighty 
 handy arouncj the hog farm 
 
 Next place the other four planks on 
 the stiles and space them as follows: 
 Between the bottom board and one 
 above it one inch, between the top 
 board and the one below it four inches, 
 and two inches between all the others, 
 this gives a total height of 44 inches 
 when completed, the left ends of the 
 four boards must extend 4J^ inches 
 beyond the stiles and the right hand 
 end must be flush with the stiles, mark 
 the distance from outside to outside 
 of the stiles A and B, set back three- 
 quarters of an inch on each side and 
 place two more stiles here, so that 
 there will be a space of an inch and 
 one-half between these stiles, saw out 
 top and bottom boards between these 
 stiles, making them flush with the 
 stiles, now nail three inch strips on 
 the remaining right hand end as 
 shown in Fig. 3, this will give one 
 and one-half inch clearance for the 
 side pieces to lock into as shown in 
 
 Fig. 6, this completes the back of the 
 pen. To make the front, proceed as 
 above except allow 24 inches or less 
 for the doors on either sides of the 
 two stiles in the center, and it will 
 be necessary to use two additional 
 stiles to nail the planking to, as shown 
 in Fig. 3. Next take four pieces 2 
 inches by 3 inches rabbeted 1 inch 
 deep and 1 inch wide, nail them flush 
 with the top and bottom boards and 
 have the rabbeted side next to the 
 boards, this will give a clearance for 
 gates of 40 inches. Allowing one- 
 half inch for ease of operation, take 
 two pieces J4 iich by 3 inches by 
 39 J4 inches, stand them upright in 
 the rabbeted places and nail board 
 34 inch by 5^4 inches by 24 inches 
 across them. Space them as are the 
 boards in the pen with the addition 
 of hasps and staples on gates and cen- 
 ter stiles, this completes the front. 
 
 One Hundred 
 
PART II 
 
 The side and center partitions are 
 made exactly as are the backs, ex- 
 cepting that only one stile is neces- 
 sary in the enter. This will give 
 added strength and prevent the boards 
 from warping. After the pen is com- 
 pleted, place the right hand ends in 
 and at right angles to each other, 
 having the front and back parallel 
 and the center and side partitions at 
 right angles to them. After the pen 
 
 is put together, bore holes in the left 
 hand ends so as to fit pegs behind 
 the stiles, this locks the pen and 
 makes it stable. These pens can be 
 built in one, two or any number de- 
 sired, and any number of pens can be 
 added as needed, they can be built in 
 an "L" shape, "T" shape or in rows 
 with a lane of any desired width be- 
 tween them. 
 
 A Portable Corn Crib With Feeding Pen 
 
 I will give you a description of 
 two devices I use in connection with 
 each other. 
 
 One is a portatble corn crib, shown 
 by the sketch, made as follows: For 
 the foundation, have two 4x6 ten feet 
 
 long, slope one end of these like a 
 sled runner, place these two runners 
 5 feet apart; a cross piece 3x6 five 
 feet long should be placed at each 
 end of the runners, and mortised into 
 the runners. A ^4 inch hole should be 
 
 H.W. CLAYTON, BARDWELt.KY. 
 
 A Portable Corn Crib. 
 
 One Hundred One 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 H.V.CLAYTON, BARDWELL , KY. 
 
 The Feed Pen that H. W. Clayton uses in connection with his portable corn crib. 
 
 bored in the middle of the 3x6 
 that is placed at the sloping end 
 of the runners for a device, These 
 should all be of some kind of 
 wood, and should be covered with 
 good solid flooring. The fram- 
 ing should be about six feet high and 
 should be of some kind of durable 
 braced. Have a door in one end of 
 the crib l8 inches from the floor and 
 extending to the top. The framing 
 can be covered with any light ma- 
 terial you have at hand, but iron 
 roofing is best as the crib can be 
 made rat proof with this by cover- 
 ing the floor also with roofing. 
 
 The roof can be made of any kind 
 of light material and should be made 
 on hinges, so that it can be raised 
 .when you get ready to scoop your 
 corn into the crib as this is much 
 easier than throwing it in at the 
 door. Tins crib will hold 50 or 60 
 bu. of corn in the ear, and when 
 empty, can be drawn by two horses 
 anywhere about the farm. 
 The Feed Pen 
 
 In connection with this crib I use 
 a portable feed pen made on two 
 runners. These should be 4x6's 30 
 
 or 35 feet long and should be placed 
 8 or 9 feet apart, depending on the 
 width of the gates thru which you 
 will want to carry this pen. These 
 runners should be sloped at both ends 
 like sled runners. A 3x6 cross 
 piece should be placed at both ends 
 of the runners and one in the middle; 
 these should be mortised into the run- 
 ners. A 3x3 inch post 38 inches high 
 should be placed at each corner of 
 this foundation and one in the middle 
 of each of the runners. One post 
 should be placed 18 inches from the 
 corner, this is for the door. 
 
 A 3x4 railing should be placed on 
 top of these posts running all the 
 way around the pen, then, the posts 
 should be well braced. Now take 
 heavy grade 6 inch stay wire, 33 inch 
 American wire fencing, and stretch 
 around this, leaving the 18 inch door 
 as described; this should be an ad- 
 justable door made to lower and raise 
 to admit either pigs or large hogs. 
 There should be a partition in the 
 middle of this pen, with a door like 
 the one in the end. This pen, like 
 the crib, can be drawn by two horses 
 to any place on the farm. By keeping 
 
 One Hundred Two 
 
PART II 
 
 the crib and pen close together, hav- 
 ing them on the thinnest spots in your 
 pasture, and moving them often, they 
 will be found to be very handy. You 
 feed your corn where the land needs 
 it least. If you are pasturing cattle 
 or horses in the same field with the 
 hogs, this pen protects the hogs from 
 them. 
 
 If you want to feed the pigs away 
 
 from the sows, adjust your door so 
 they can enter the pen, and the sows 
 will have to stay out. 
 
 I also keep bran, shorts and tankage 
 in this crib when I am feeding it 
 and have troughs in the pen to slop 
 the pigs in. 
 
 I believe this is a very simple, cheap 
 and practical device. 
 
 A Pen for the Farrowing Sow 
 
 At this time every effort must be put 
 forth to raise more pork to win the 
 war, and whatever is good in times of 
 war is good in times of peace. To raise 
 more pork, the first thing is to farrow 
 the pigs, save their lives, and get them 
 well started in the world before we can 
 make pork out of them. To do this we 
 must first have a good farrowing pen, 
 one that the sow cannot tear to pieces 
 just before she farrows and get boards 
 and nails strewn around her pen. 
 
 I use a pen about eight feet square 
 with a wood floor and tight sides so the 
 sow will not see any object that might 
 appear, while she is farrowing, which 
 may cause her to jump up and run over 
 and kill her little ones. On the inside 
 of the pen, about eight inches from the 
 floor, I put a 2x6 plank around all four 
 sides, horizontal, to prevent the sow 
 from lying against the wall, giving 
 plenty of room for the little pigs 'to 
 run under the 2x6 and get out of the 
 big awkward mother's way when she 
 gets up or lies down. 
 
 The illustration shows cleats 8x16 
 inches nailed on the edge of the 2x6 
 planks. These cleats are then nailed to 
 the wall with the planks bolted together 
 at the corners and extending out into 
 the pen with run-way for little pigs 
 underneath. By not driving the nails in 
 
 5- J MARTTM. 
 WESTHOPEHP. 
 
 CLCAT ^ 
 NAILED / 
 TO ZxfetC 
 
 the cleats all the way in, the planks can 
 be easily removed and used again and 
 again. 
 
 Have the trough fast so she can't root 
 it up and perhaps kill the pigs. 
 
 One Hundred Three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Portable Pen For Sow and Family 
 
 CONCRETt 
 FLOOR 
 
 JWIMCINO OOORJ 
 
 CONCRETE 
 FLOOR 
 
 I have drawn a rough sketch of a 
 portable and sanitary feeding floor 
 and pen for sow and litter. The pen 
 is intended to permit the litter to be 
 fed without interference from the 
 dam. The central alley as indicated 
 by the diagram is for the convenience 
 of the feeder, and the swinging doors 
 over the troughs permits him to give 
 slop without interference thru the 
 greediness of the animals. The 
 
 troughs are indicated immediately un- 
 der the swinging doors which cross 
 the pen in the diagram. The sow's 
 feeding floor is not enclosed. I pro- 
 vide self-feeders for mineral matter in 
 both ends of this floor. The floor of 
 this pen is made of plank and is cov- 
 ered with a layer of concrete. The 
 outside boards are built flush with the 
 floor to prevent wasting of feed. At 
 the rear of the pigs' feeding floor, the 
 
 One Hundred Four 
 
PART II 
 
 bottom board is bolted to allow a 
 creep for the pigs without permitting 
 the sow to enter. 
 
 This floor and pen may be easily 
 moved about, and when set close to 
 
 the stationary fence of a hog lot, af- 
 fords a very convenient way in which 
 to satisfactorily care for the sow and 
 litter. 
 
 A Well Arranged Feeding Shed 
 
 The sketch herewith shows the plan 
 7^ of my feeding shed which I built for 
 finishing market hogs. 
 
 The shed is 32 feet long, 16 feet 
 wide and 8 feet high, with windows 
 
 along the south side and doors on the 
 north for filling the feeder. The 
 feeder has capacity for about 100 
 bushels of ear corn or twice that of 
 shelled. The building is large enough 
 
 DOOBS ALONG ENTIRE SIDE TO FILL FEEDER FROM OUTSIOE 
 
 SMALL OPENINGS 
 
 OUTSIDE 
 
 FRANK NE3BITT 
 FOWLER. IND. 
 
 HYDRANT 
 
 NON-FREEZING 
 WATERER 
 ATTACHED TO 
 STOCK TANK. 
 
 One Hundred Five 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 to accommodate 20 325 pound hogs 
 without crowding. I have an auto- 
 matic water fountain with lamp at- 
 tached to water tank. During the 
 coldest weather this keeps the chill 
 oflE the water. 
 
 The ends and south side of the shed 
 are made of old lumber, the west end 
 being covered with old tin roofing 
 on the outside of the lumber. I have 
 a door on the west of the right height 
 for the manure spreader, and I shovel 
 the manure direct into the spreader. 
 
 The floor is made of concrete thru- 
 out constructed by throwing in a lock 
 
 with well-tamped cinders as filler, then 
 covered with one or two inches of 
 cement. The sleeping pen is kept well 
 bedded. This is my third year with 
 this kind of floor, and I consider it 
 far superior to dirt or board floors. 
 
 I built this shed myself during spare 
 time, and the entire cost was less than 
 a hundred dollars. I consider that 
 it will pay for itself every year in 
 the labor saved. 
 
 My hog house proper is fourteen 
 feet from the shed with concrete floor 
 between. 
 
 A Modern Hog Plant 
 
 The attending drawings of my hog 
 plant are planned entirely by myself 
 and they have given a great deal of 
 added pleasure to me in my hog oper- 
 ations. 
 
 The hog house is 22x36 feet and is 
 built on the university plan. It has 
 a double floor and shingled roof and 
 makes a very attractive improvement 
 on the farm. 
 
 The slop pen is of my own design 
 and has a cement floor slanting to the 
 south. By my trough device, the slop 
 can be fed very much more rapidly 
 without wasting and without plaster- 
 ing the heads of the pigs. The slop 
 cooker is at the end of the alley and 
 
 is very handy. The corn-crib is close, 
 and the feeding floors are cement and 
 very easily cleaned. In each of the 
 farrowing pens a guard rail of 2x4 
 is placed about 7 inches off the floor 
 to prevent the sows from crushing 
 the pigs. 
 
 The alfalfa feeder is built like a box 
 on legs, with the bottom board ofiE all 
 the way around and with a lid cov- 
 ering it to keep out rain and snow. 
 It can be used for either baled or 
 loose hay. The drawing indicates 
 the dimensions. 
 
 Should any further information be 
 desired regarding my equipment, I 
 would be glad to answer inquiries. 
 
 One Hundred Six 
 
PART II 
 
 BARN LOT 
 
 nEDINC 
 
 CORN / FLOOR 
 caiB . /' CE 
 
 LARGE LOT 
 
 RAY WHITHAM 
 GRIDLEY ILL. 
 
 0-: 
 
 ALFALFA FEEDER 
 RAY WHITMAN 
 
 TROUGH DEVISE 
 
 GRIDLEY. ILL. 
 
 One Hundred Seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Suggestions to Solve Your Housing Problem 
 
 € 
 
 A hog house that I made for our 
 farm is shown in the accompanying 
 sketch, 64 ft. long and 20 ft. wide, 
 standing east and west. The north 
 side of the roof is tight shiplap sheet- 
 ing with steel roffing on it, the south 
 side is more sloped and not as long 
 as the north, and is shingled, with 
 13 chief sunshine windows in the roof 
 which admit the sun just where you 
 need it in the winter time, in the far- 
 
 rowing pens. These pens are 6 x 8 ft. 
 on the north side of the building, and 
 each has a gate in it so I can let the 
 sows out to exercise after the pigs are 
 a few days old. The roof is 5J4 ft. 
 high on the north side, and in the 
 pens so that a man can stand up and 
 easily clean out the pens thru open- 
 ings made in the tight shiplap on the 
 north side. The south side is 7^2 ft. 
 high to plate and has 13 windows 3 ft. 
 
 
 G. J. JCHUUTTENHOFEB. 
 EAFU. PARK INLD. 
 
 ^ratRoonm 
 
 !*' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 T-1 
 
 
 
 GLIDING 
 
 OOOH 
 
 $ 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 CEMENT 
 
 .n.ltllN& OOOfC^ 
 
 One Hundred Eight 
 
PART II 
 
 from the ground, and la sunshine 
 windows in the roof on the south 
 side. I also have one window and a 
 4 ft. door on the east, and one win- 
 dow and an eight foot roller door 
 on the west. 
 
 I have self-feeders and it is much 
 easier cleaned out. False bottoms are 
 used in the cemented pens, as ce- 
 ment is too cold for pigs to sleep on. 
 In the other half, I have my pens 
 made of 1x4 boards and the bottom 
 8x12 plank, with the rest of the space 
 for a run for the hogs in bad weather, 
 which is of fine crushed stone. A hy- 
 drant is in the middle of the house, 
 providing pure, fresh water in foun- 
 tains from a gravity system tank in 
 the attic of my house. Having the 
 fountains saves a lot of work, and 
 worry when you are away for some 
 time. The one I use can accommo- 
 date a fire in cold weather to warm 
 the water; that is a great thing, for 
 the hogs, as you know, won't drink 
 any more cold water than they have 
 to have. 
 
 There is also a "feed bin 6 x 8 in. 
 in the hog house which I keep filled 
 
 with shelled corn and oats for them 
 and on stormy days I don't have to 
 get out of the house to care for my 
 stock. There is also space reserved 
 for straw bedding and as a rule I clean 
 out the shelter every other day. 
 
 It has been my custom not to let 
 my boar run with the sows during 
 the breeding season, but put him in a 
 breeding pen on the north side of my 
 house, made of 1x6 boards 4J^ ft. high, 
 68 ft. long and 10 ft. wide, with a bed 
 inside the house. 
 
 I set poles every six feet around 
 the outside, tightlap up and down, 
 which makes it warm against the win- 
 ter winds. The catalpa and white ash 
 poles were barked and set in cement, 
 and are as good today, hard as flint, 
 as they were six years ago when the 
 house was built. The whole building 
 cost me $530, complete, at that time, 
 but of course everything is higher 
 now which would make such a struc- 
 ture cost about $800. I believe any- 
 one following this plan for housing 
 will be fully repaid and entirely sat- 
 isfied. 
 
 Combination Bam and Hog House 
 
 I have been raising Durocs for 
 about ten years, and have had hogs in 
 times when I hated to go out to feed. 
 When I had to feed in the mud, my 
 hogs were generally covered with 
 scurf and lice, and, of course, runty. 
 
 Six years ago we built a barn, so I 
 
 One Hundred Nine 
 
 thought I would remember the hogs 
 by erecting a shed on the end of the 
 bam 16' wide and 32" long, with a 
 crib in it of a 200 bushel capacity and 
 high enough to permit the hogs to 
 run underneath. On the north end of 
 this shed is another the same size for 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 cattle to run under, facing the east. 
 These two sheds are built together, 
 and I have a door hung on hinges be- 
 tween the two so the hogs can go 
 from one to the other if they like. 
 They soon learn to push this door 
 which does away with the expense 
 of shelling com for a self-feeder, for 
 there is nothing that can get in to 
 bother the corn. They sleep in the 
 shed with the cattle. When I first 
 built this shed, I left it with a dirt 
 
 would lose enough money at the pres- 
 ent price of corn to build a concrete 
 feed floor. My hogs eat in this shed 
 on a concrete floor, but they never 
 sleep on it in winter, and it makes 
 a nice place for them in summer. 
 
 Two years ago I had a bunch of 
 hogs that got scurfy and lousy, and as 
 it got too muddy to haul my manure 
 out of the horse stable on the field, 
 I wheeled it out in the cattle yard un- 
 der the shed, and my hogs started 
 
 CATTLE 5HED WHERE HOGS 3LEEP 
 
 NORTH SIDE 
 
 HORSE 3TA&LE 
 
 CEMENT PLANKED 
 
 ON TOP 
 
 FEED ALLEY 
 CEMENT 
 
 BOX 5TALL3 
 
 DRIVEWAY 
 CEMENT 
 
 COW STABLE 
 CEMENT 
 
 FEED ALLEY 
 
 CEMENT 
 
 SHEEP 
 
 PEN 
 
 W. M MYSELL 
 
 aOUTH .SIDE 
 
 LCONARDSBURG, 
 
 SWING 
 
 MOR HUNS 
 
 BY HINGE 
 
 AT TOP 
 
 HOG 
 HOUSE 
 
 CEMENT 
 TLOOB 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 floor, and fed that way for a couple 
 of years. I was feeding twenty-five 
 
 hogs one winter, two bushels a feed, 
 out of doors when frozen and in the 
 shed when muddy, but they finally got 
 the shed in bad shape, so I put a par- 
 tition in my barn floor which is con- 
 crete, and I found that it took less 
 corn. With the other way, a man 
 
 sleeping in it. I was a little uneasy 
 about it at first, but I soon found they 
 had no lice and the scurfy was gone. 
 I have been making a practice of keep- 
 ing dry horse manure under the shed 
 from that time, since it makes a cheap 
 way of dipping them, and I have had 
 pretty good success raising Durocs. 
 
 One Hundred Ten 
 
PART II 
 
 A Convenient and Serviceable Hog House 
 
 This house faces south. The win- 
 dows at the top are so arranged as to 
 allow sufficient sunlight for the hog 
 beds. Ventilators can be made either 
 above or below windows. The pas- 
 sageway separates troughs and feed 
 bins. The feeding rooms are supplied 
 with swinging doors; back of feeding 
 rooms are the beds raised 8 inches 
 above ground, and back of the beds 
 are the pig lots. 
 
 The exterior of this house is made 
 
 with a lattice effect so as to allow a 
 free circulation of air. This will cer- 
 tainly prove a labor saver and life 
 saver to hog raisers. Materials re- 
 quired: 
 
 5,000 ft. of plank 1 in. thick. 
 580 ft. 2x4s. 
 340 ft. 4x4s. 
 
 Two hundred and fifty d'ollars will 
 easily complete this house today, 
 without the roof, which will require 
 about twelve rolls of paper. 
 
 E H. TIFFANY- 
 MrDOLBBURO VA 
 
 FLOOR. PLAN OF HOG HoUSE 
 
 One Hundred Eleven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Combination Hog House and Hay Rack 
 
 H. B. CRNJT, 
 KENESAW, NCBR. 
 
 A hog shed of my own construc- 
 tion is shown in the sketch below. 
 This certainly is a cheap, warm shed, 
 built in a horse feed rack. A well- 
 built A-shaped house is constructed 
 in the rack, the roof boards running 
 same as on an A-shaped hog house. I 
 have doors in roof that can be opened 
 when rack is empty in summer, thus 
 permitting sunlight to enter. My feed> 
 rack is 10x30x13 ft. high with a 3-ft. 
 manger on two sides and on one end. 
 
 The other end is left open for an en- 
 trance for the hogs. I haul a load of 
 wheat straw and cover this house, 
 and fill the manger. Then I haul oat 
 straw, hay or any other feed, fill the 
 rack and your hog house is well cov- 
 ered. By putting the wheat straw in 
 first, the manger is always well filled 
 for banking for the house. This house 
 is two feet high on sides and four 
 feet in center. 
 
 One Hundred Twelve 
 
PART II 
 
 A One-Room Portable Hog House 
 
 C. H. TIPFAJMV 
 MinOLEBUBC, VA. 
 
 riG.i, 
 
 We have used the house shown in 
 Fig. 1 and find it the most useful 
 hog house on the farm. A team of 
 horses can easily draw it to any place 
 desired. This house is especially use- 
 ful in the summer. It was built on 
 a rainy day and the following mate- 
 rials were used: 
 
 Two hundred and fifty feet of plank. 
 Three pieces 2x6x8 feet for runners. 
 Six 3x4x16 feet for framework. 
 
 The labor and material cost me not 
 over $6.50 two years ago. 
 
 When painted, this house will last 
 many years. 
 
 A Double-Room Portable Hog House 
 
 The house shown in Fig. S is built that it is a double house. I use this 
 on th« same plan as Fig. 1, except house for two different lots, arranging 
 
 EARL H. TIFFANY 
 MIDDbEBURC, VA 
 
 One Hundred Thirteen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 the fencing accordingly. If I use the 
 house for several shotes, I pull the 
 sliding partition making one large 
 room. This house is as convenient as 
 No. 1 and can be moved anywhere on 
 the farm by a team of horses. The 
 material requirements: 
 
 Four hundred and fifty feet of plank. 
 
 Three pieces 2x8x16 feet for run- 
 ners. 
 
 Ten pieces 2x4x16 feet for framing. 
 
 When completed as shown by the 
 drawing, the labor and material cost 
 me $11 in 1917. 
 
 This Arrangement of Pens Expedites Feeding Operation 
 
 ■A-JHAPED HOUSI 
 
 H.W.CAJWB.L 
 GARDNER MAM 
 
 The accompanying diagram shows 
 an arrangement which I have found to 
 be exceedingly convenient in manag- 
 ing either fourteen brood sows or as 
 many litters of growing pigs. The 
 same system can be carried out, how- 
 ever, in case a smaller number of 
 yards is more suitable. The advan- 
 tages in having the pens in circular 
 form about the central feeding and 
 
 watering ring or house can easily be 
 ascertained, but the principal feature 
 is that it expedites matters very ma- 
 terially at feeding time, at the same 
 time allowing the brood sow or grow- 
 ing pigs free access to the range. 
 With this system you don't have to 
 run all over the farm to feed the hogs, 
 but can have everything handy in the 
 central house and distribute them 
 much more quickly. 
 
 One Hundred Fourteen 
 
-H-^MD^H > 
 
 Miscellaneous 
 Hog Lot 
 Appliances 
 
PART II 
 
 - JHORT RAFTER 
 
 A. PUR5INCEH 
 ONAWA, lA. 
 
 A New Idea Hog House Ventilator 
 
 The plans shown will give you some 
 idea of the ventilator used on our 
 farm, my most practical of hog farm 
 equipment, because it is so practical 
 and economical. It is used to be put 
 on hog houses with skylight windows. 
 The length of it .is the length of the 
 house, minus eight feet on each end. 
 In its construction, sheet and shingle 
 the roof of house up to 12 inches of 
 the ridge of the roof on each side. 
 Cut short rafters 12 inches long and 
 fit on top of main rafters of roof; cut 
 a set of short rafters for each set of 
 main rafters of the roof included in 
 the ventilator. After these have been 
 placed, sheet and shingle as one would 
 the roof. "Place tin ridge roll on ridge 
 of ventilator, which will leave a space 
 
 of about three inches between roof of 
 ventilator and that of house. 
 
 This is the type of ventilator put 0:1 
 my father's hog house last year and 
 has proved so successful that I wanted 
 to give you the benefit of it. I know 
 of no other like this. Last winter we 
 used such a house for sleeping quar- 
 ters for hogs. This ventilator takes 
 out all of the frost on the inside walls 
 of the house, all dusty air soon 
 passes out of it, and it furnished fresh 
 air for them to sleep in without a 
 particle of draft. The ventilator be- 
 ing almost the entire length of the 
 house does away with air currents and 
 drafts that skylight window venti- 
 lators and cupola ventilators give. 
 The small cost over and above the 
 cost of the house gives it such an eco- 
 nomical feature. 
 
 One Hundred Seventeen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Partition Gate for Hog Houses 
 
 The inexpensive and durable parti- 
 tion gate described for hog houses or 
 other stock buildings we have found 
 very useful on our place, and is also 
 very light, making operation easy. It 
 may be taken down and hung up to 
 
 piece is nailed securely to post or side 
 of wall. Another 2x4 is made similar 
 to the one above, with the exception 
 of the l"x8" slot in top, and instead, 
 make an opening l"x4" six inches from 
 the top to correspond with that made 
 
 RgZ 
 
 
 t).T. NCWBTf, aUKRtOAN. INO< 
 
 the ceiling or any convenient place 
 where it will be out of the way, in 
 this way giving more room for feed- 
 ing. 
 
 In making this gate, first take a 2x4 
 of the height desired for the partition 
 and saw out a piece l"x8" long at one 
 end, as shown, and also in the same 
 piece cut out l"x4" hole six inches 
 from the bottom for a slot to permit 
 the sliding of the partition gate. This 
 
 near the bottom. This piece is then 
 nailed to 2x4 number one. A third 
 2x4 is made like number two and fixed 
 to the side opposite pieces number one 
 and two combined. These supports 
 are now ready for the partition proper 
 which is made out of J4" or %" lum- 
 ber, 4" wide, the length according to 
 the width of space to be partitioned 
 oil. The top slat and the one next to 
 bottom are the same length, both 
 
 One Hundred Eighteen 
 
PART II 
 
 being four inches longer at one end 
 and two inches longer at the opposite 
 end than the two intermediate lx4s, 
 which may be spaced according to 
 
 one's desire. When the gate is in 
 place, a piece may be fitted to fill the 
 slot in 3x4 number one to make it 
 secure. 
 
 A Guard for Young Pigs 
 
 M. 
 
 SIDE WALL 
 
 FARROWINO PEN 
 
 ALLEVWAYWALL 
 
 / |y I TROUGH 
 
 ,^WAU» 
 
 FIG.l 
 
 CUV V. JINCKS — ROSS IOWA. 
 
 This device has proved very satis- 
 factory for me. This prevents the 
 sow from laying on young pigs, one 
 of the greatest difficulties in farrow- 
 ing. This arrangement prevents the 
 sow from laying against the wall, thus 
 giving the pigs room to go around. 
 I am sure that this device has saved 
 me thousands of dollars' worth of 
 pigs. Before trying this method I 
 used 2x4 about 10 inches from the 
 floor and wall, but all too often the 
 
 sow, in lying down, would catch one 
 of the best pigs of the litter between 
 the 3x4 and her body. 
 
 If there is a board floor in the hog 
 house the lower edge of the board 
 can be nailed to the floor, the top 
 edge resting on a 1x4 nailed flat on 
 the wall. Where a cement floor is 
 used they can be nailed at the ends 
 and a strip nailed down each corner, 
 as in Fig. 1. 
 
 One Hundred Nineteen 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 Storm Front Protection for Hog House 
 
 I want to say in the beginning that 
 the man that tries to raise hogs with- 
 out a shelter should get out of the busi- 
 ness. Trusting to the hog to fix his 
 winter quarters in the woods and fence 
 corners has gone out of date. In this 
 section it is almost obsolete. In our 
 country raising corn and hogs is the 
 main business, and almost every farmer 
 has a hog house of some kind, but one 
 thing for the protection and comfort 
 of our hogs is neglected — storm doors 
 to our houses. They can be built out 
 of old lumber with small cost, but you 
 can save enough in one year to build 
 them out of new material. 
 
 If you have the small single house 
 and your brood sows and fall shoats 
 can lay in one, fix two or three or more 
 if you need them. If you have the large 
 colony house, you will need only one 
 
 HOG H0U3C 
 
 5T0RM 
 
 FRONT 
 DOORS 
 
 J. H. GOODKNIGHT, KEMPTONs IND. 
 
 door. Neighbor, do you think it advis- 
 able, good policy, remuneration, while 
 you are tucked up in a warm bed to 
 let your sows sleep in a house with the 
 door open? Have you stopped to think 
 that that neglect causes many ills? It' 
 takes more than enough feed to keep 
 them warm than to build the device 
 each year. Hogs take cold, cough, take 
 rheumatism, and many die of pneumonia 
 on account of the drafts and extreme 
 cold blowing directly on them. Venti- 
 late your house, but close your doors. 
 You cannot afford to stand out in cold 
 weather waiting for hogs to go to bed 
 to close the doors of your hog house. 
 Build a storm door I Build it now I Pro- 
 tect your foundation, you will sleep bet- 
 ter yourself. Aside from the comfort 
 it will make you money, the very thing 
 most American farmers are looking for. 
 You build the door to suit your house 
 and fancy; but here is a good plan. 
 
 Make a square large enough for a 
 hog to turn around in and inclose three 
 sides, the open side set against hog 
 house door. Cut two doors in the storm 
 front sides opposite each other. The 
 wall opposite door in hog house must 
 be left tight. It is best to keep one door 
 in the storm front closed, depending 
 on the direction the wind is blowing. 
 You can roof it any height desired, but 
 I find three feet is a very convenient 
 height to use. 
 
 One Hundred Twenty 
 
PART II 
 
 JAMES NISSLEY 
 PEMBeRTON. - 
 
 A Sliding Door 
 
 Here is a sliding door that I use 
 on my shift partition. It is operated 
 from aisle by handle, which I find 
 very convenient. 
 
 In the sketch, \A shows an ordi- 
 nary door made of inch boards as 
 high and wide as desired, with a nail- 
 ing strip six inches wide on each end. 
 C is a board 1x4 inches wide and as 
 long as the door is wide. This board 
 is nailed on top of the door and ex- 
 tends one inch over the top board of 
 partition so that the strip B 1x1 can 
 be nailed underneath to keep the door 
 on track. There is also a 1x1 nailed 
 to the door under the track board to 
 keep the door from being raised. 
 
 D is an ordinary door guide with a 
 roller which allows the door to slide 
 very easily. 
 
 £ is a 1x2 oak lath which is fast- 
 ened to the door with a bolt. 
 
 One Hundred 
 
 F is a bolt with which the door is 
 locked. This enables the door to be 
 locked so that pigs of any size may 
 be allowed to go through and at the 
 same time prevent the larger ones 
 from entering. 
 
 G shows notches cut in top of 
 board to allow the lock board to drop 
 and lock the door. The sketch shows 
 the door slightly open. 
 
 We find that this door is very serv- 
 iceable to hold hogs while ringing 
 them; one man operates the lever and 
 the other does the ringing. 
 
 This door and partition should be 
 made from hardwood so the nails 
 will hold, as there is a great deal of 
 strain on hog furniture. 
 
 I have some of these doors hung 
 on small rollers. 
 
 Twenty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Swinging Door for Hog Houses 
 
 I have a little article on better hog 
 raising which I think every hog raiser 
 should have, namely, a swinging door 
 that will permit the passing of the 
 pig's and that will close after them, 
 excluding snow and rain. By the use 
 of this door, it is possible to keep the 
 house warm at farrowing time. I 
 have found that pigs only two weeks 
 old can operate this. It also prevents 
 chickens from entering the house if 
 the windows are covered with net- 
 ting. We have used these doors for 
 five years and find them highly satis- 
 factory. 
 
 The hinge is a f^-inch rod running 
 lengthwise of the door 3]4 inches 
 from one side and attached to the 
 door. I use two check row corn 
 planter springs, one on each side of 
 the door, near the top and behind 
 the hinge rod. These springs allow 
 
 the door to go either way. The dia- 
 gram shows the plan. 
 
 ctSSSfije 
 
 RICHARD HALL &. SONS 
 BRADFORD, ILL. 
 
 A Convenient Hog House Door 
 
 I have a home-made hog house door 
 that greatly benefits a farmer's wife, the 
 farmer himself and his entire family, 
 and there seems to be very, very few 
 in use. It keeps the chickens out of the 
 hog house, and in winter automatically 
 
 keeps many cold drafts off the hogs and 
 sometimes saves the lives of pigs. In 
 summer it will darken the house, if so 
 desired, for fly protection. Thus it saves 
 poultry, tears, trouble, little pigs some- 
 times, and makes happiness and money 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-two 
 
PART II 
 
 CEORCe «AGe GOOOLANO 
 
 I NO. 
 
 for wife, farmer and family, and also 
 makes more good strengthening food 
 for the loved ones who are fighting so 
 hard for the existence of our very na- 
 tion and ourselves. 
 
 This device is a light board door, just 
 a little shorter and narrower than the 
 opening made for the hog entrance in 
 the house. This door is suspended from 
 a rod at the top of the doorway so that 
 it can be easily pushed in or out. This 
 lets the hogs go into or out of the house 
 as they please, and^in my experience 
 with it, no bad results have yet occurred 
 from its use. 
 
 Arrangement of Pens Handy When Dipping 
 
 The arrangement of the pens and panying diagram I have used for 
 quarters as shown on the accom- some time and has proved very sat- 
 
 nj 
 
 mSTURt 
 
 EH 
 
 nmowiNO 
 
 WELTtn 
 
 PASTURE 
 
 •s^m 
 
 CH 
 
 BOAR 
 
 iHtLTCR 
 
 PASTURE 
 
 nnz 
 
 CEfKNT FLOORS 
 
 DILI, on 
 
 Roon 
 
 V/n- AND aUEONG JHED 
 ARE UNDER MHE COVCR 
 CHUTE AT END Of JCAtU 
 a NOT 3TATI0NAFW 
 
 B.C. MtELVtEN 
 ARCOLA, OA. 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-three 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 isfactory. One advantage is, when 
 dipping, the pig can be br ught from 
 pasture thru the dip, weighed, and 
 either returned to pasture or loaded 
 on wagon by the chute at the end of 
 the scales. The chute is not station- 
 
 ary, and can be fixed on wheels so as 
 to make it easier to pull around to 
 different places. 
 
 The vat and sleeping porch are 
 under the same cover. 
 
 Simple Heater for Farrowing in House 
 
 WIRES TO 
 CEILING 
 
 CAN TILLED WITH 
 MOT WATER 
 
 rr.1.. NOON^ JACKSON, MICH. 
 
 A simple way to heat th& farrowing 
 house in cold weather. Hot water, 
 milk can and wire does the work. At- 
 tach wire from each handle of the milk 
 can to the roof so it cannot be tipped 
 
 over if the sow objects to it being 
 there. This will change the tempera- 
 ture of the house and make it com- 
 fortable for the little "newcomers." 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-four 
 
PART II 
 
 A Fool-Proof Latch 
 
 f A.H.WAeNER 
 
 POINT CLEAR AL/\. 
 
 The latch shown in the accompany- 
 ing illustration has been very satisfac- 
 tory to me. The diagram shows the 
 details of its construction. One and 
 the best features of this is the small 
 pieee of wood which is hung in the 
 position shown as the "latch," which 
 makes it impossible for a horse or any 
 other animal to lift up the latch and 
 open the gate. This is loose and can 
 be swung aside when one desired to 
 open it. This has been in use on sev- 
 eral of my gates around the farm and 
 it has proven worth-while. 
 
 Self-Closing Hog House Door 
 
 Use a light weight screen door spring ; 
 fasten one end to the wall and the other 
 end to the door as shown in illustration. 
 Nail a j4-inch button on the building so 
 the door cannot close tight. The hogs 
 will soon learn to open the door with 
 their snoots. 
 
 r.O.ETTER. 
 
 5PARK5. NEBR. 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-five 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Hog House Door 
 
 I am using three of the doors de- 
 scribed below and would not be with- 
 out them. It may be hung inside the 
 regular hog door in the hog house or 
 placed wherever needed, in pens and 
 fences, etc. It is chicken and cat-proof, 
 though the hogs may pass either way 
 at will, and the door is always closed 
 against drafts and storms. The chain or 
 rope may be adjusted to stop large hogs 
 and allow the small ones to pass through. 
 The removable bar allows the hogs to 
 pass one way only, thus making it pos- 
 sible to shut up the hogs for sorting. 
 A strip of felt may be tacked on the 
 bottom side of the door and saturated 
 with crude oil, making an effective oiler. 
 The diagram indicates the method of 
 construction. 
 
 »»• CARL W. HELLER. GENE5E0. ILL. 
 
 A Roller Skid for Loading Crates 
 
 I find daily use for and save many 
 a heavy lift with a roller skid, as 
 shown by the sketch above. With it 
 a five hundred-pound hog can be 
 loaded with ease by one man. To 
 construct such a skid, take two 3x4s 
 7 ft. long and two pieces of wagon 
 tire, and bolt them at each end. Then 
 
 take the two rollers out of an old 
 binder, saw them into four pieces as 
 rollers of the desired width. Fit them 
 into the top edge of the 2x4 equal 
 distant apart. Bolt them together at 
 each end of the bottom side. One 
 end of the roller skid is placed on the 
 wagon box and the crate containing 
 hog is easily rolled upon the wagon. 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-six 
 
PART II 
 
 Winter Hog House Door 
 
 Fasten a rod (an old wagon box rod 
 will serve the purpose) across the top 
 of the door. Drill a hole in casing at 
 one end, and chisel out a hole for the 
 rod to go into at the other end. Hang 
 the door on the rod, slip rod into 
 hole on one end and slot on the other. 
 Then nail board neatly over slot to 
 hold the rod in place. Small pigs will 
 learn to nose up the door if you leave 
 a slot at the bottom of the door as 
 shown above. 
 
 C. A.niLUER . NASHVILLE, niCH 
 
 A Home-Made Wheelbarrow 
 
 The construction of the wheel bar- 
 row shown by the diagram is as fol- 
 lows: Take a 14 or 16-inch plow 
 wheel, a piece of IJ^-inch well pipe 
 9 inches long, two pieces of Sx4 50 
 inches long, bore IJ^-inch hole in one 
 end of them, make hole a little larger 
 with a hot iron, then put one 2x4 on 
 each side of the wheel and place the 
 pipe thru for an axle; clinch the pipe 
 on both ends a little so it will stay in 
 place, then take three 2x4s 2 feet long. 
 Place the first one 4 inches from the 
 
 back end of the 2x4s on the wheel. 
 Nail it on top, having the 2x4s com- 
 ing back from the wheel just two 
 feet apart at this point. Nail the 
 next one on top 3 inches from the 
 wheel and the third one in the cen- 
 ter, laying them on the side so it will 
 be easier to nail them on solid. Lay 
 a floor on them with 4-inch fir or 
 hard pine flooring; this floor will be 
 2 by 3 feet; then take a good piece 
 of 1x12 12 feet long for the sides and 
 ends of the box. The box will be 2x4 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-seven 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 I !*• PI Pe 9' LONG . 
 
 S. A. CANTv WESTFIELD , roWA. 
 
 feet on top, the back end of which is 
 cut mitering, which is a great advan- 
 tage in shoveling ear corn from the 
 box. Reinforce the corners of the 
 box with four pieces of 3x2, setting 
 the end gates in 2 inches. Take a 
 piece of 2x4x38 inches, cut the corners 
 off, then cut it two in the center mit- 
 ering. This will make the legs. Bolt 
 two plow or cultivator handles to the 
 center of the legs and to a brace on 
 each side of the box made of two 
 paint, and it will last for many years, 
 pieces of 1x4 2 feet long. Use plenty 
 of nails, and give it two coats of good 
 The one I have is four years old, 
 has been used every day on some part 
 
 of the farm, and is still in good shape. 
 Five hundred pounds can be wheeled 
 in it. Side-boards, similar to a wagon, 
 can be made for it. When standing 
 on the ground with a load in it, it is 
 not so easily upset as an ordinary 
 wheelbarrow. We have used this 
 barrow in cleaning the barns, to haul 
 grain, wood, cobs, cement, hogs in 
 crates, and as a watering and feeding 
 trough for horses and cattle, also to 
 mix cement and plaster in, and for 
 many other things such as hauling 
 fencing material, a barrel of salt, etc. 
 No factory made wheelbarrow will 
 serve the purpose of this one. I 
 would not take $50 for it if it is im- 
 possible to get another one like it. 
 
 A Rack That Prevents Alfalfa Waste 
 
 I always had trouble with hogs 
 wasting alfalfa until I made a rack 
 like the sketch indicates below. With 
 
 this rack, my hogs do not waste this 
 feed or trample in the mud, and they 
 can get every" spear of hay. If green 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-eight 
 
PART II 
 
 alfalfa is mowed and fed, this rack is for feeding hay, etc., will find no fault 
 the place for it. in its use. 
 
 The persons who adopt this rack 
 
 a. or aroFCN 
 
 B. E. MALL, WAT50N, MO. 
 
 A Hog Farm Auto Trailer 
 
 The trailer I use was made from the 
 rear axle, reach, and front wheels of an 
 old spring wagon. I made the box four 
 feet long, 2}/i inches wide and 10 inches 
 deep. I bolted a 16 inch wagon box iron 
 at each comer, allowing them to pro- 
 trude four inches above the corners of 
 the box. These I bent out and bolted 
 flare boards to them. The box is bolted 
 to the reach in front and to the springs. 
 I cut off the reach about 18 inches in 
 front of the box and bolted two strap 
 irons to it with holes in the end for the 
 hitch. 
 
 The trailer cost me about three dol- 
 lars for hunber, nails, bolts and iron. I 
 had the old spring wagon and did all the 
 work myself. I have two crates that 
 just fit the box and I haul two hogs at 
 nne time. 
 
 WILBUR ANDERSON 
 WICHRA IOWA 
 
 One Hundred Twenty-nine 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Stay-There Ear Mark 
 
 I have put ear tags in my sows' 
 ears several times and they get torn 
 out. While all do not get torn out, 
 still they constantly are losing. If 
 all the sow pigs from a certain sow 
 are in the same ear mark I have no 
 way to distinguish these. This is 
 very inconvenient at breeding time. 
 
 I bought a tattoo marking ap- 
 paratus and ink, but read that tattoo 
 did not show well on red skin, so I 
 never used it. I used a belt punch 
 and small blade pocket knife, but had 
 to re-mark several as the slits would 
 grow up. I am using a V-marker 
 mark, so this will last her all her days. 
 
 cut a V. This stands for No. 1, same 
 as an ear tag No. 1. On same ear 
 half way between the center and end 
 on top cut V. This stands for No. 2 
 sow pig. At end of left ear cut V 
 stands for a figure 3. On bottom 
 side of left ear about the center a V 
 cut stands for a figure 5. Between 
 the center and the end on the bottom 
 of the left ear a V cut stands for fig- 
 ure 4. If the first sow had 5 sow pigs 
 and 4 boars that we marked, the sows 
 would be marked as shown and all 
 the boars be marked alike with No. 1. 
 Since one plus five make six, we cut 
 one and five for number six. For 
 
 The Sketch Shows W. A. Wadsworth's 
 Ear Marking- System 
 
 I put all the boars of the same litter 
 in the same mark, as they later will 
 have different owners. This saves 
 the marks running up so fast. Pigs 
 are marked when I cut oflE the teeth 
 to keep them from damaging each 
 other or the udder at two days old. 
 
 In looking at the accompanying 
 cut we notice no mark near the head. 
 We have found the upper side of the 
 ear next to the head is a mean place 
 now so the marks will never grow 
 up. I put each sow pig in a separate 
 to mark and hard to see later. Here 
 a mark disfigures the ear. We start 
 on the left ear top line, mid-way, and 
 
 No. 7 we cut 2 and 5. For 8 cut 3 
 and 5. For 9 cut 4 and 5. All marks 
 on the left ear stand for units, while 
 all marks on the right ear stand for 
 
 tens. 
 
 A cut V at the middle top side 
 right ear stands for No. 10. A mark 
 right ear top side near the end stands 
 for No. 20. A mark at the end of 
 right ear makes N-o. 30. On the bot- 
 tom of right ear we cut 40 and 50, as 
 shown in cut. Now 10 plus 50 makes 
 sixty, hence we cut 50 and 10 to get 
 sixty. We cut 1 and 10 to get eleven. 
 We cut 10 and 2 to get 18. 
 
 One Hundred Thirty 
 
PART II 
 
 By using these simple cuts we can 
 mark 100 sow pigs each in her indi- 
 vidual mark. To distinguish the sec- 
 ond hundreds we can cut a V mark 
 near the head on the left ear and start 
 at one again and mark up to 199. 
 By marking the right ear under side 
 close to the head we designate 200; 
 
 aoo plus 100 makes 300. Hence cut 
 a V in each ear next to head bottom 
 side will get 300. By adding other 
 marks we get to 399. To mark 400 
 cut two marks on right ear under side 
 close together and close to head. 
 Four V's on the under side of each 
 ear reads 899. 
 
 Tools for Sanitation 
 
 Here are diagrams of my equip- 
 ment for keeping my hog barn and 
 feeding floors in a sanitary condition. I 
 have over 2,000 feet of cement floor, and 
 I go over these at least once each day. 
 The scraper is used to shove droppings 
 and cobs together, while the wide shovel 
 is used to remove either into a sled or 
 hand cart. With this outfit I also in- 
 clude a good broom and sprinkling can, 
 and since adopting my outfit, cholera has 
 been a stranger on my farm. In making 
 
 my first scraper, I used a cross-cut saw 
 blade, but I soon discarded this as it was 
 tempered too hard and broke easily. I 
 am now using a piece of malleable iron 
 which is heavier and gives entire satis- 
 faction. I use a five foot handle and 
 the blade of the scraper is two feet in 
 length and about two inches wide. The 
 shovel is an ordinary coal shovel 14 
 inches wide, and I also use a small fire 
 shovel to assist in cleaning out the 
 troughs. 
 
 One Hundred Thirty-one 
 
HOGOLOGY 
 
 A Handy Item at Butchering Time 
 
 The diagram submitted herewith is 
 self-descriptive as regards the con- 
 struction and arrangement of this 
 handy help at hog killing time. As 
 you will note, the uprights are of 
 rather heavy material, which I made 
 25 feet long, having 4 feet in the 
 ground; likewise is the 5-foot cross 
 piece overhead, on which are placed 
 the three blocks. I have used a plat- 
 form in connection with this and 
 
 found it more convenient than with- 
 out. 
 
 With the pulley the pig can be 
 raised or lowered as desired and 
 makes it easier to scald and dress the 
 carcass. The hog can be lowered in- 
 to the barrel full of scalding water 
 and then dressed. By having more 
 than one pulley equipment, several 
 hogs can be taken care of at one time, 
 thus expediting matters considerably. 
 
 One Hundred Thirty-two