^ff/}/'' ' _^,Vr'J A-Hiti, a, \ -.. (X ■MS m-'' . •ji/ riyA ju V tt ny/ mfrnrrrn irnfmf rrrnjrrrrirryrrrTrrrn'^rTimrir irmxtMfrxmxxteJxnexrj^fXJgjtivrfTiaiTfajiA M m Cornell University Library Wordsworth Collection Gift of M.H. & Ruth Abrams • >• ■^ s ^ '^ T^ H jj Ss 1 ^.s % N P v^ ^t:! ■^ THE LAKES OF ElSraLAND. ILLUSTRATED WITH BY W. F. TOPHAM. LONDON: T. J. ALLMAN, 463, OXFORD STREET. 1869. CONTENTS. PAGE 5 WINDERMERE ••...... CONISTON WATER . . 7 BLEA TARN 9 VALLEY OF THE STAKE H GRASMERE ^3 RYDAL WATER I5 THIRLMERE . . . . . , . . . .17 VALE OF ST. JOHN. 19 BORROWDALE . . . . . . . . .21 BUTTERMERE LAKE . . . . . . . . 23 CRUMMOCK LAKE 25 DERWENTWATER AND BASSENTHWAITE LAKES . . . 27 STYE HEAD TARN . . . . . . . .29 WASTWATER AND SCAWFELL LAKES 31 ENNERDALE LAKE . 33 LOWESWATER 35 HAWESWATER .... .... 37 ULLSWATER . 39 WINDERMERE. " Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain ; Here earth and^water seem to strive again ; Not, chaos-like, together crushed and bruised, But as the world, harmoniously confused ; Where order in variety we see, And where, though all things differ, all agree."— Pope. Windermere is the largest of the English lakes, being eleven miles in length and three-fifths of a mile in breadth, its greatest depth (opposite to Ecclerigg Cragg) is 222 feet, and the entire surface of the lake comprises 4534 acres of water, together with 40 acres of land contained in the islands, of which there are several ; in the centre of the largest one, formerly stood Holm Castle, which was attacked by the parliamentary forces during the civil wars. The lake is divided into two reaches or points of view, by the island of Belle Isle. The northern or upper reach is four miles in length and one in breadth : the lower or southern, seven miles in length, but considerably narrower and diminishing in width toward the southern extremity. These two reaches are interspersed with several beautifully wooded islands, in all fourteen in number, which are clustered near the middle of the lake, forming a group round Belle Isle, the largest ; and are beautifully described by Professor Wilson as — " Those sister isles that sleep Together, like a happy family Of beauty and of love." Windermere can be seen to advantage only from its own surface or the various stations immediately environing it ; an excursion on the lake is therefore indispensable for the tourist duly to appreciate 6 WINDERMERE. its beauties. Passing Berkshire Island, with the beautiful grounds of Storr's Hall beyond, we soon reach the station, a look out tower, built upon a rocky eminence overhanging the ferry. This station commands a fine view of both reaches of the lake ; but it is more remarkable for the stained glass windows, which exhibit the lake as it appears affected by the various seasons of the year ; the yellow panes representing the noontide of a summer's day ; the orange, the mellow tints of autumn ; the light green, the fresh buds of spring ; and the hght blue, the cold, icy aspect of winter. There is likewise a dark blue, which is intended to exemplify " moonlight in water," and also a lilac colour, which gives a sufficiently correct resemblance of a thunder-storm passing over this variable climate. Having duly admired these unseasonable seasons, together with the less glaring, but more pleasing colours of nature from the brow of the Station Hill, the tourist may now continue his course south- ward down the lake. The view from here is very grand, extending as far as Newby Bridge, a distance of seven miles ; and from this point it is that the accompanying illustration was sketched. Pass- ing Berkshire Island and Storr's Hall is Eawlinson's Nab, a penin- sular rock of a circular figure, jutting out from the western shore about three miles and a half below Bowness and thickly covered ■with small brushwood ; on both sides of this rock a magnificent sheet of water expands itself to the right and left. Peturnino- northward from Rawlinson Nab, to the left of Belle Isle are the two Lily of the YaUey Holms or Islands, where every passer-by must, according to the old established custom, gather a handful of the fair flowers which grow on every side in wild luxuriance, and bear them off witli him, her, or them — ''just for to say," as the boatmen express it. CONISTON WATER. " See ! where yonder lake Spreads its wide liquid plain : now stands unmoved, Pure as the expanse of heaven, and heaven reflects From its broad, glittering mirror : now with waves, Curled gently by the breeze, salutes the flowers That grace its banks !" — Broome. CoNiSTON, or as it is also called Thurston Water, is six miles in length and abont three quarters of a mile in width. The character of the scenery of this lake is unequal. The lower reach is very tame, nor is the want of beauty at all ameliorated by straight un- bending shores ; but the bold and sublime grandeur of the head of the lake will fully compensate for any disappointment which may arise from want of picturesque interest or beauty in its environs. The best view of this lake is from Waterhead, whence the accom- panying illustration is taken. The shores of the lake are varied with bold promontories and islands, and travelling northward the middle ground materials improve and become highly interesting, when about two miles from the head of the lake : Coniston Hall is here a good object, though probably half a mile distant, and will serve as a principal to the sprinkling of farm houses and cottages, which compose the village of Coniston. These buildings are agree- ably dispersed over gentle eminences, intersecting each other in easy and elegantly undulating lines. Coniston Hall is a picturesque old building, it is partly in ruins, and a considerable portion, not only of the ruined, but the habitable parts, covered with ivy ; trees have been suffered to remain near the hall, and they are in unison with it, being chiefly aged sycamores ; nor are the farms and cottages without their accompaniments of wood, which though of o CONISTON WATER. humble growtli, are scattered about the buildings and enclosures in groups, hedge rows, and in single trees. Coniston Old Man and his neighbours finish the scene in grand style, which though generally fine, is rendered infinitely more interesting when seen after much rain, by that variety of sparkling waterfalls which issue from the fissures of the mountains. The Valley of Yewdale hes about a mile north west of Coniston Water. Near the house is the famous yew tree, tall and beauti- fully picturesque, but not umbrageous like those of Patterdale and Lawton. " At Coniston," Mr. Bains says, "■ I saw some curious efiects of cloud and sunshine on the mountains. At first the whole scene was overshadowed ; then I saw a patch of sunshine on the broad and verdant top of Helvellyn : gradually the sphere of light was enlarged, and the whole of that distant range was illuminated, whilst the Old Man and his hard-favoured neighbours stood in the shade. In process of time, a few pencil rays shot over the side of the Old Man, and gilded one of the highest ridges of Wetherlam. As the clouds gave way before the luminary, his rays, now almost level, streamed over the mountain top, and wrapped the most prominent ridges in an atmosphere of gold and purple, which at once enriched and obscured them. Still further prevailing, the fervid orb at length chased all the clouds from the face of heaven, and looked down in parting splendour upon the lake." BLEA TARN. : ** here, above, around, below, On mountain or in glen, 1 Nor tree, nor slirub, nor plant, nor flower, Nor aught of vegetative power. The weary eye may ken ; For all is rocks at random thrown ; Black depths, bare crags, and banks of stone, ■ As if it were denied The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew. That clothe with many a varied hue, The bleakest mountain side." — ScOTT, The accompanying view embraces the " little lonely vale" of Blea Tarn, with the bare sides of Black Pike on the left and the craggy heights of Blakerigg and Wetherlam on the left. The scenery is wild and deserted in the extreme until the beauteous Valley of the Stake bursts upon you as you stand upon the dizzy edge of Blackridge. The poet Wordsworth, in " The Excursion," gives the following beautiful and accurate delineation of Blea Tarn : " We scaled, without a track to ease our steps, . A steep ascent, and reached a. dreary plain, With a tumultuous waste of huge hill tops Before us. Savage region I which I paced Dispirited ; when all at once, behold i Beneath our feet a little lowly vale, A lowly vak, and yet uplifted high Among th« mountains : even as if the spot Had been from eldest time by wish of theirs So placed, — to be shut out from all the world : Urn-like it was in shape, deep as an urn, With rocks encompassed, save that to the south Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge 2 10 BLEA TARN. Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close : A quiet, treeless nook, with two green fields ; A liquid pool, that glittered in the sun, And one bare dwelling ; one abode, no more !" In the reign of Henry II., the manor of Blea Tarn was granted to the abbot and convent of Byland, in Yorkshire, of the Cistercian order, and surrendered to the Crown in the reign of Henry YIII. The abbey appears to have covered a large portion of ground, and from time to time workmen in digging about have discovered con- siderable remains of the foundations, &c. At a small distance east of the abbey are the vestiges of two large fish-ponds ; near to which were dug up several pieces of leaden pipes, supposed to have been for the purpose of conveying water from the lake to the fish-ponds. A httle south-east from the ponds is a large piece of ground, now common, which appears to have been enclosed with a high earth fence and a ditch on both sides, part of which yet remains ; and the same goes by the name of the Abbey Park. ^r i* VALLEY OF THE STAKE. " '■ Beloved vale !' I said, ' when I shall con Those many records of my childish years, Remembrance of myself and of my peers Will press me down : to think of what is gone Will be an awful thought, if life have one.' But when into the vale I came, no fears Distressed me ; I looked round, I shed no tears ; Deep thought, or awful vision, I had none." — Wordsworth. The Valley of the Stake from the edge of Blackridge affords a beautiful panorama. The road through it is steep and precipitous, and affords numerous opportunities to the lover of the romantic and the picturesque for charming points of view to provide himself with sketches. Descending the hill to the right is the valley of Great Langdale, and pursuing the road, a foaming cascade appears on the left, rushing headlong from a lofty summit of the Langdale Pikes ; at the foot of the mountain are a few small cottages, to which the neighbouring stream has given the name of Millbeck. A short distance from this is Dungeon Gill, a lofty and exceed- ingly picturesque fall, situated in a deep cleft of the hill, under Harrison Stickle ; two enormous rocks have fallen into the top of the chasm, and give to the Dungeon (the provincial term for a deep chasm) an air of dark and gloomy horror ; the height of the fall is about sixty feet. The following is an extract from Wordsworth's pleasing httle poem, founded on the fact of a lamb having fallen from the top of the Gill into the basin below, whence it was rescued unhurt. " Beneath a rock, upon the grass, Two boys are sitting in the sun ; It seems they have no work to do. Or that their work is done. On pipes of sycamore they play. The fragments of a Christmas hymn ; Or with that plant which in our dale He calls stag-horns or fox's tail Their rusty hats they trim : And thus as happy as the day, Those shepherds wear the time aAvay. # * * * •■!■ Said Walter leaping from the ground, ' Down to the stump of yon old yew We'll for our whistles run a race.' 12 VALLEY OF THE STAKE. Away the shepherds flew, They leapt — ^they ran — and when they came Eight opposite to Dungeon-Ghyll, Seeing that he should lose the prize, ' Stop !' to his comrade Walter cries. James stopped with no good will ; Said Walter then, ' Your task is here, 'Twill keep you working for a year. 'Now cross where I shall cross — come on^ And follow me where I shall lead.' The other took him at his word, But did not like the deed. With staff in hand across the cleft The challenger began his march. And now all eyes and feet hath gained The middle of the arch. When list ! he hears a piteous moan — Again ! his heart within him dies. His pulse is stopped, his breath is lost, He totters, pale as any ghost. And, looking down, he spies A lamb, that in the pool is pent Within that black and fearful rent. The lamb had slipped into the stream,. And safe without a bruise or wound ; The cataract had borne him down Into the gulf profound. His dam had seen him when he fell. She saw him down the torrent borne. And, while with all a mother's lore She from the lofty rocks above Sent forth a cry forlorn. The lamb, still swimming round and round. Made answer to that plaintive sound. :{: ^ 4i ^ :{: He drew it gently from the pool, And brought it forth into the light : The shepherds met him with his charge. An unexpected sight f Into their arms the lamb they took, Said they, 'He's neither maimed nor scared,' Then up the steep ascent they hied. And placed him at his mother's side ; And gently did the bard Those idle shepherd boys upbraid, And bade them better mind their trade." GEASMERE. " Loud is the Vale ! the voice is up, With which she speaks when storms are gone, A mighty unison of streams ! -Of all her voices, one ! Loud is the Vale ! this inland depth In peace is roaring like the sea ; Yon star upon the mountain top Is listening quietly." Wordsworth. Grasmere Lake will ever be connected with poetry, as in tlie vil- lage of Grasmere, situated at the north end of the lake, stands the church, in the churchyard of which lie the mortal remains of the great English bards, Wordsworth and Coleridge, both poets of the beautiful and of nature. It is small, but beautifully formed, situated in a valley of the same name, and is surrounded by an " amphitheatre of hills/' In our illustration, taken from Longbury Fell on the south side, will be seen on the north side the Cans, Helm Crag, and Steel Fell, on the east, the lofty ridge of Fairfield, and on the west, the tall, rugged steeps of Silver How. In the centre of the lake is one small island, which rises into a small hillock, and forms an agreeable object in the view. The steep ascent of Dunmail Raise, skirting Helvelljni, may be seen in the view. At the highest point on the right of the road is a cairn, consisting of a considerable heap of pebble stones, which' were according to tradition, piled over the body of Dunmail, the last king of Cumbria, who here hazarded a battle with the Saxon king, Edmund the First, by whom he was slain. The four sons of Dunmail likewise fell into the hands of the victor, who put out their eyes, and imprisoned them during the 1 4 GR ASM ERE. remainder of their lives, and tlius tlie cairn commemorated at once the victory of Edward, the death of Dunmail, and the extinction of the Cumbrian monarchy, (a.d. 945.) The poet Gray visited Grasmere in 1769, and describes it with great enthusiasm. " The bosom of the mountains," he says, *' spreading here into a broad basin, discovers in the midst Grasmere Water. Its margin is hollowed into small bays, with bold eminences, some of rock, some of soft turf, that half conceal and vary the figures of the little lake they command. From the shore a low promontory pushes itself far into the water, and on it stands a white village, with the parish church rising in the midst of it. Hanging enclo- sures, cornfields, and meadows green as an emerald, with their trees and hedges, and cattle, fill up the whole space from the edge of the water. Not a single red tile, no flaring gentleman's house or gar- den walls, break in upon the repose of this little unsuspected para- dise, but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty in its neatest and most becoming attire." A century, however, has produced changes here as elsewhere. Professor Wilson has the following beautiful lines on Grasmere : — " There is a little churcliyard on the side Of a low hill that hangs o'er Grasmere Lake. Most beautiful it is — a vernal spot Enclosed with wooded rocks, where a few graves Lie sheltered, sleeping in eternal calm ; Go thither when you will, and that sweet spot Is bright with sunshine." RYDAL WATER. ** ' Turn wliere we may,' said I, ' we cannot err In this delicious region.' Cultured slopes, Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves, And mountains bare, or clothed with ancient woods, Surrounded us ; and, as we held our way Along the level of the glassy flood. They ceased not to surround us ; change of place. From kindred features diversely combined, Producing change of beauty ever new." Wordsworth. In the vicinity of this beautiful lake are several points of interest : Rydal Park, which was formed by charter of King Edward the First, the deer in which were all destroyed when the estate was confiscated, and the demesne has not since been re-stocked ; Rydal Mount, so long the residence of the poet Wordsworth ; and Rydal Falls, two small but pretty cascades. The lake is about three quarters of a mile long, and spotted with several beautifully wooded islets, on one of which there is a heronry. Pyne says : — " There is no scene throughout the English Lakes district with which such intellectual recollections are associated as with Rydal Water, Although one of the smallest of the lakes, it is far from being the least picturesque ; but it derives its chief interest from its connexion with the name of the greatest of our modern poets, William Words- worth. The painter might have been gifted with a prophetic vision in having invested the scene with so solemn a character. Lake and mountain are in mourning. He who has given a deathless fame to the spot is himself dead. All that was mortal of the poet reposes in peace, but his spirit still lives, and his words of simpli- city and truth will speak to men through all time." 16 RYDAL WATER. Bydal Park is thus described by Professor Wilson: — -''Its sylvan, or say rather its forest scenery, was in the memory of living men, magnificent, and it still contains a treasure of old trees. By all means wander away into those old woods, and lose yourselves for an hour or two among the cooing of the cushats, and the shrill shriek of startled blackbirds, and the rustle of the harmless glow- worm among the last year's red beech leaves. No very great harm should you even fall asleep under the shadow of an oak, while the magpie chatters at safe distance, and the more innocent squirrel peeps down upon you from a bough of the canopy, and then hoist- ing his tail, glides into the obscurity of the loftiest umbrage." The following sketch of the poet Wordsworth's abode is by Miss Jewsbury : — " Low and white, yet scarcely seen, Are its walls for mantling green, Not a window lets in light, But through flowers clustering bright ; Not a glance may wander there, But it falls on something fair ; Garden choice and fairy mound, Only that no elves are found ; Winding walk and sheltered nook, For student grave and graver book ; Or a bird-like bower, perchance, Fit for maiden and romance. Then, far off, in glorious sheen Of wide and sun-lit waters seen ; Hills that in the distance lie ^ Blue and yielding as the sky ; And nearer, closing round the nest, The home of all the ' living crest ;' Other rocks and mountains stand Rugged, yet a guardian band Like those that did in fable old Elysium from the world unfold." , THIRLMERE. " And Science aids, tlio' these steep hills Send to the lake a thousand rills ; In summer-tide so oft they sweep, The sound but lulls the ear asleep ; Your horse's hoof-tread sounds too rude, So stilly is the solitude." — Scott. Thirlmere, also called Leathes or Wythburn Water, lies at the foot of Helvellyn, whose base it skirts for a distance of nearly four miles, fed by the silvery streams which pour themselves down the huge mountain sides ; it is in form not unlike the figure eight, being almost intersected near the middle by two peninsulas, joined by a rustic bridge, which, in simplicity of style, is in good keeping with the surrounding scene. This lake has a greater elevation than any of the others, being at the height of five hundred feet above the level of the sea ; its greatest depth is eighteen fathoms ; the water is remarkably clear and of a deep blue colour. The general character of Thirlmere is a gloomy, wild magnificence ; the verdant front of the mighty Helvellyn sinks, with a graceful sweep, to the very edge of the water ; and on the opposite side a thousand huge rocks over- hang the calm blue lake, their craggy bases sinking abruptly into the waves ; whilst the verdant mountains of Borrowdale form a bold and noble back-ground. The following is a description of the scene by a recent observer. '' It was luxury to sit on a high grassy slope, between two bold promontories, and look down upon the black and solemn waters, the great Helvellyn rising steep and bare on the opposite shore. The scene was so sombre, even in the fine evening light of gay July, that a white horse in a cart moving slowly along the road under Helvellyn — a very minute object at such a 1 8 THIKLMERE. distance — seemed to cast a light into the landscape. Then in a few more steps we emerged into a noble amphitheatre of rocks, retir- ing from the lake, and leaving a level meadow of the richest green for us to traverse. These rocks were feathered with wood to their summits, except where bold projections of gray or dun crags relieved the prevalent green with a most harmonious colouring. High up, almost at the very top, gushing out a foaming stream, from some unseen recess ; and the waters leaped and tumbled in their long descent till they reached the meadow, through which they quietly slid into the lake. Our walk over the deep grass and heather must have been very noiseless : for I evidently gave as vivid a start as I received, when I came upon a little clear pool in the grass, with a reedy margin, whence a heron sprang up so close that I might almost have laid hold on its beautiful wings or long legs, as it hurried away, leaving the water dimpled and clouded in the spot where it had stood fishing when alarmed. Then our path lay along the margin of the lake, and then through a shady lane which opened into a farm yard. We came now near the bridge, and were soon to be satisfied how a lake could be crossed by a bridge. For one spot, about half way along the lake, the shores throw out promontories which leave no very wide space from point to point ; and here there is a rising of the ground from below, so that the v/aters are shallow — even fordable at times for carts and horses. Piers of rough stone are buUt, and piles of them raised at intervals ; and these intervals are crossed by planks with a hand-rail ; so that is a picturesque bridge enough." YALE OF ST. JOHN. " mountain stream, the shepherd and his cot Are privileg'd inmates of deep solitude ; Nor would the nicest anchorite exclude A field or two of brighter green, or plot Of tillage ground, that seemeth like a spot Of stationary sunshine." — Wordsworth. The beautiful and romantic valley of St. John or Wantliwaite, is a deep and narrow dell, shut in by gloomy and barren crags, and terminated at the north extremity by the noble ridge of Blencar- thara, or Saddleback. Near the centre of this valley on the right is the castle Rock of St. John, so celebrated by the poetic genius of the Minstrel of the North, when in the Bridal of Triermain, he represents King Arthur and De Yaux as having reached the scene of their perilous enterprise — " With toil the king his way pursued, By lonely Threlkeld's waste and wood, Till on his course obliquely shone The narrow valley of St. John. Piled in by many a lofty hill. The narrow d^U lay smooth and still 3 And down its verdant bosom led, A winding brooklet found its bed. But midmost of the vale, a mound Arose, with airy turrets crowned. Buttress and rampire's circling bound. And mighty keep and tower ; Seemed some primeval giant's hand, The castle's massive walls had planned. < A ponderous bulwark to withstand Ambitious Mmrod's power." 20 VALE OF ST. JOHN. Within a short distance from the Vale of St. John is a Druidical circle, 336 feet in circumference, and 114 in diameter, which is thus described by Mr. Pyne, " The stones, which are of granite, are thirty-eight in number, and are from three to eight feet high. On the eastern side of the Druid's Temple, as it is called, there is a small enclosure formed within the circle by ten stones, niaking an oblong square, seven paces in length and three in width, which Mr. Pennant supposes to have been allotted to the priests, as a sort of sanctum sa7ictoru7ny in which they were separated from the profanum vulgus and whence they performed their rights and divinations, and sat in council to decide controversial points, or for the trial of criminals." Hutchinson, in his " Excursion to the Lakes," thus describes this singular scene : " An ancient castle seems to stand upon the summit of a little mound, the mountains around forming an amphi- theatre. This massive bulwark shows a front of various towers, and makes an awful, rude, and gothic appearance, with its lofty turrets and ragged battlements : we traced the galleries, the bend- ing arches, and the buttresses. The greatest antiquity stands cha- racterised in its architecture ; the inhabitants near it assert that it is an antidiluvian structure. The traveller's curiosity is roused, and he prepares to make a nearer approach, when that curiosity is put upon the rack, by his being assured that if he advances certain genii who govern the place, will strip it of all its beauties, and by enchantment transform the magic wails. There was no delusion in this report : we were soon convinced of its truth ; for this piece of antiquity, so venerable and noble in its aspect, as we drew near, changed its figures, and proved no other than a shaken, massive pile of rocks." BOREOWDALE. " The fraternal four of Borrowdale Joined in one solemti and capacious grove Huge trunks." — ^Wordsworth. The road from Keswick to Borrowdale passes Lowdore, at a short distance from which, it first enters upon the picturesque beauties of the Valley of Borrowdale. At the immediate entrance of Bor- rowdale is the small hamlet of Grainge, at the back of which rises a spiral and well-wooded eminence called Castle Crag. On the summit of this noble height are vestiges of a fortification, whence the rock derives its name. This fort is supposed to have been of Boman construction, and was subsequently held by the monks of Furness, in order to defend the entrance to Borrowdale. Opposite to the Castle Crag, on a lofty pinnacle of rock, rests the Bowdar stone — " A mass of rock, resembling as it lay, A stranded ship, with keel upturn'd — that rests Fearless of winds and waves." This vast mass, which is 62 feet in length and 36 in perpen- dicular height, estimated to weigh nearly 2000 tons, and said to be the largest self stone or detached mass of rock in England, is yet so poised on one of its edges that two persons on opposite sides may shake hands through an aperture beneath. Beyond the Bowdar stone, is the little village of Bossthwaite, from whence the accom- panying sketch is taken, affording a splendid view both of the Eagle Cragg and of Helvellyn. Ascending to the magnificent mountain pass of Honister Cragg, a dark and lofty mountain, which 22 BORROWDALE. raises its abrupt and rugged head to the height of 1700 feet above the vale — " Ever the hollow path twined on ; Beneath the steep hank and threat'ning stone, An hundred men might hold the post With hardihood against an host." " It may be questioned," says Professor Wilson, " if there be lq all the highlands of Scotland, one glen comparable to Borrowdale, though there are several that approach it in that combination of beauty and grandeur, which, perhaps, no other scene equals in all the world. The gorge of the dale exhibits the finest imaginable assemblage of rocks and rocky hills, all wildly wooded, and laved by a sylvan stream, not without its abysses. The mountains are not so high as in the Highlands, but they are very majestic ; and the passes into Langdale, Wastdale Head, and Buttermere, are magnificent, and show precipices in which the golden eagle might rejoice." The road hence descends as abruptly as in its rise, and brings us to the subject of our next view, Buttermere Lake. BUTTERMEEE LAKE. " Long hast thou been a darling haunt of mine, And still -warm blessings gush'd into my heart, Meeting or parting with thy smiles of peace — 0, gentlest lake ! from all unhallow'd things By grandeur guarded in thy loveliness ; Ne'er may thy poet, with unwelcome feet, Press thy soft moss, embathed in flowery dies. And shadow'd in thy stillness like the heaven." — WiLSON. BuTTERMERE Lake is a small sheet of water not exceeding a mile and a quarter in length, and about half a mile wide, but its chief beauty consists in the bold and rocky mountains which encompass it in on every way, except toward the north-west, where the valley opens into an extensive and beautiful plain, in which are spread the blue waters of Crummock. The vale is beautifully wild, and is en- compassed by magnificent hills. De Quincy, speaking of the lake, says : " The margin of the lake, which is overhung by some of the loftiest and steepest of the Cumbrian mountains, exhibits on either side few traces of human neighbourhood ; the level area, where the hills recede enough to allow of any, is of a wild pastoral character, or almost savage. The waters of the lake are deep and sullen, and the barrier mountains, by excluding the sun for much of its daily course, strengthen the gloomy impressions. At the foot of this lake lie a few unornamented fields, through which rolls a little brook, connecting it with the larger lake of Crummock, and at the edge of this miniature domain, upon the roadside, stands a cluster of cot- tages, so small and few, that in the rider tracts of land they would scarcely be complimented with the name of hamlet." The little inn near the chapel recalls to memory the story of 24 BUTTERMEEE LAKE. Mary, the beautiful maid of Buttermere, this being the spot where she Hved. The ballad, which is well known, describes her as being so beautiful that her charms were heard of far and near, and that her employment as the innkeeper's daughter was to wait upon the guests. The narrative further states, that a man calling himself the Honorable Colonel Hope, brother of Lord Hopetown, but whose real name was Hatfield, was much struck with her attractions, and paid his addresses to her, and they were eventually married. Soon after the marriage it turned out that he was a rogue, who had com- mitted forgery, and had fled to the seclusion of the mountains ; here he was tracked, arrested, and in a very short space of time tried at Carlisle, and, under the then existing law, was executed for the crime. The beautiful Mary afterwards married a farmer, and died only a few years since. CRUMMOCK LAKE. " Yea, sweet lake, Oft hast thou borne into my grateful heart Thy lovely presence, with a thousand dreams Daucing and brightening o'er thy sunny waves ; Though many a weary mile of mist and snow, Between us interposed." — Wilson. Crummock Water is distant about three quarters of a mile from Buttermere, and is nearly three miles in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth ; it is situated between the lofty mountams of Melbreak and Grassmoor, and contains three or four small islands, which are, however, too close to the shore to add anything to its beauty. About a mile down the lake, and nearly three quarters of a mile from the water's side, situated in a deep recess, is Scale Force, This is the deepest fall in the region of the lakes, the water making one clean leap of 153 feet from the top, besides a small cascade below. Its force is terrific when swollen by heavy rains, but at other times the quantity of water is small. As a cascade, it is not remarkable for beauty or grace, but the falling stream, shut in between two vast unbroken walls of rock, the bright drops sparkHng on the few small trees which overhang the deep abyss, and the ever- changing cloud of spray, together form a scene of wild and picturesque effect. " Crummock Water," Charles Knight says, *' is less celebrated among the lakes than its peculiarities and beauties appear to deserve. From stations on its rocky and ele- vated shores the most striking views are obtained of the noble surrounding mountains, as far as the dark Honister Crags which close in the group ; and the meadows between the two lakes afford a singular class of contrast. From the lake, the heights of Melbreak and its neighbour offer an aspect of colouring which is to be seen nowhere else in the district. Long sweeps of orange and grey 26 CRUMMOCK LAKE. soil and stones descend to the water ; and above, there are large hollows, like craters, filled now with deep blue shadows, and now with trembling white mists, above which yellow or purple peaks change their hues with every hour of the day, or variation of the sky, the bare hot-looking debris on the Melbreak side, the chasms in the rocks, and the sudden swellings of the waters, tell of turbu- lence in all seasons. The most tremendous water-spout remembered in the region of the lakes descended the ravine between Grassmoor and Whiteside in 1760; it swept the whole side of Passmoor at midnight, and carried down everything that was lying loose all through the vale below, and over a piece of arable land at the entrance, where it actually peeled the whole surface, carrying away the soil and the trees, and leaving the rocky substratum completely bare. The soil was many feet deep, and the trees full grown. Then it laid down what it brought, covering ten acres with the rubbish. By the channel left, it appears that the flood must have been five or six yards deep, and a hundred yards wide. Among other pranks, it rooted up a solid stone causeway, which was sup- ported by an embankment apparently as strong as the neighbouring hills. The flood not only swept away the whole work, but scooped out the entire line for its own channel. The village of Bracken- thwaite, which stood directly in its course, was saved by being built on a stone platform, a circumstance unknown to the inhabitants till they now saw themselves left safe on a promontory, while the soft soil was swept away from beside their very doors, leaving a chasm where the flood had been turned aside by the resistance of their rock. The end of the matter was, that the flood poured into the Cocker, which rose so as to lay the whole north-western plain under water for a considerable time." The Valley of Lorton, cele- brated for its ' solitary yew,' is a short distance from the lake. DERWENTWATEE AND BASSENTHWAITE LAKES. " Once more, Derwent ! to thy awful shores I come insatiate of the accustomed sight ; And, listening as the eternal torrent roars Drink in with eye and ear a fresh delight ; For I have wandered far by land and sea, In all my wanderings still remembering thee." — SOUTHEY. Derwentwater, sometimes, but less properly called Keswick Lake, is considered the gem of the English lakes ; it is about three miles in length and three in breadth. Its islands, among which is Lord's Island, formerly the stronghold of the Radcliffs, Earls of Derwent- water, comprise about thirteen acres, and are all richly clothed with wood, and are situated towards the north extremity of the lake, whilst at the south-eastern end, opposite to Lowdore, is that natural curiosity of Derwentwater, the floating island. This island is about 150 yards from the shore, where the water does not exceed six feet in depth. When lying at the bottom of the lake, it does not differ in appearance from the surrounding soil, but its peculiarity consists in its rising, or floating at times, on the surface of the lake. It never rises far above the level of the water, but fluctuates with its rise and fall, till it gradually sinks again to the bottom. The cause of this phenomenon is pretty well ascertained to be a gas, generated by the decomposition of vegetable matter in the body of the island, which causes it to float on the surface, till the hghter air being exhausted, it again sinks to its resting-place. This air is said to consist of equal parts of carburetted hydrogen and azotic gases, with a little carbonic acid. The periods of its appearance vary according to the state of the atmosphere, but it generally rises after an interval of a few years, and towards the close of a hot summer, and this fact, of the influence of the atmo- 28 DERWENTWATER AND BASSENTHWAITE LAKES. sphere on its movements, seems to confirm the assertion that they originate in a fixed air, which is generated underneath it. It should be observed that, even whilst above the water, its sides are till attached to the bottom of th e lake. Its form and dimensions likewise vary, sometimes containing half an acre of ground, at others a few perches. At the south end of the lake are the grand and majestic falls of Lowdore, which are considered the finest in the north. In a wet season, when the bed of the river is full, the noise of the falls is said to be audible at a distance of ten or twelve miles ; the waters rush down a chasm of 150 feet m depth, between the rugged sides of Shepherd and Gowdar Crags, with prodigious force, and the scene is in the highest degree grand and picturesque. The massive fragments of stone piled up on either side, the hanging trees which grace their gaping fissures, the rough grey rocks which tower above all, and the wild stream which leaps, thundering and foaming, down the rugged precipice, form a picture at once majestically rude and beautiful. Bassenthwaite Lake, sometimes called Broadwater, is about four and a half miles in length, and nearly a mile in breadth at the northern extremity, embracing the scenery of the Yale of Bassenthwaite, the dark^ wood-clad heights of Wythrop Brows, and the many tops of mighty Skiddaw towering above his brother hills in proud pre-eminence, who rears his azure summit to the clouds, and crowns the scene with calm majestic dignity. " What was the great Parnassus' self to thee, Mount Skiddaw ! In its natural sovereignty Our British hill is nobler far, he shrouds His double front among Atlantic clouds, And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly." Walton Crag, on one side of the lake^ has a hollow on its sum- mit, which is visible from the road. There is a tradition that the Countess of Derwentwater hid herself here with a large quantity of jewels when her husband was arrested for high treason. STYE HEAD TARN. " 'Tis glorious here, at breaking day, To watch the orient clouds of gray Blush crimson, as the yellow sun Walks up to take his purple throne, And melts to snowy mists the dew That kiss'd, all night, each blossom's hue." Nichols. Stye Head Tarn is a lone and desolate lake, enclosed by the bare and riven sides of Scawfell, Great End, and Great Gavel. The lake is fed by a small stream from another tarn, called Sprinkling or Sparkling Tarn, some hundred feet higher, and is the source of one branch of the Grange or Derwent river. The latter tarn is far famed for its trout. Beyond this, and at an elevation, perhaps, of one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet higher, a sudden turn in the road unfolds the panorama of Wast Dale and Wast Water, a thousand feet below, and the gloomy but gorgeous hills that encom- pass them around. In the History and Antiquity of Westmoreland and Cumberland, it is stated that " on the hill called Stye Head, where the swine were wont to feed in summer, is a very high and per- pendicular rock called Eagle Crag, and in it every year is an ayry or nest of eagles." Miss Harriet Martineau, in her charming Guide to the Lakes, says respecting this, " So says the old history. But the traveller will find no swine near Stye Head now, summer or winter. No creature comes to drink at the tarn — the little clear rippling lake, where the mountaineer throws himself down to rest on the bank, when heated by the ascent from the vales. He has found everything sunny and dry, perhaps, but here he sees, by the minute diamond drops resting thick on the grass, that a cloud has 30 STYE HEAD TARN. lately stooped from its course, and refreshed the verdure in this retreat. It looks very tempting, this bright sheet of water ; but no creature now comes to drink, unless a sheep may have strayed far from the flock, and in its terror may yet venture to stoop to the water with many a start and interval of listening, till, at the faint sound of the distant sheep dog, it bounds away. The rill from Sprinkling Tarn is close by, and it leads to this Stye Head Tarn, where the boars used to come to drink. Long after the boars were gone, the eagles came hither, and this was one of their last haunts. The eagles, which gave their name to the crag in Borrowdale, being disturbed, settled themselves on a rock at Scathwaite, and at length crossed the ridge into Eskdale, The disturbance was of course from the shepherds, who lost so many lambs as to be driven despe- rate against the birds. There was no footing on the crag by which the nest could be reached, so a man was lowered by a rope sixty yards down the precipice. He carried his mountain staff with him, its spiked end being the best weapon against the birds. He did not expect to kill the old ones, but year after year the eggs of the young were taken. If he brought the young away alive he had the bh-ds for his pains, if the eggs, every shepherd gave five shillings for every egg. We are unable to ascertain positively, amidst con- flicting testimony, whether any eagles at all remain in the region. There is, however, a preponderance of disbelief of there being now any nest and settlement of eagles among the mountains of West- moreland and Cumberland." WAST WATER AND SCAWPELL LAKES. *' Peace to thy empire, queen of calm desires ! Health crown thy hills, and plenty robe thy vales ! May thy groves wave, untouched by wasteful fires ; Nor commerce crowd thy lake with sordid sails !" Cumberland. Wastwater is tliree miles in length, and three quarters of a mile wide, but the deepest of all the lakes, being forty-live fathoms in depth, and its surface is never frozen. In scenery, Wastwater has but httle variety, the southern shore being formed by the long and monotonous range of the Screes, which sink their precipitous and broken sides nearly perpendicularly into the water. Towards the north, however, the lofty heights of Singwell, Scawfell, and Great Ganell, form a grand and imposing boundary, beneath which lie the green fields and smiling pastures of Wasdale. This is the only lake in which the mountains sink at once, abrupt and sheer into the water, and the whole character of the scene — the lofty mountain, and the still blue lake, the rolling cloud, and the deep, dark shadow, is one of sullen magnificence. " Here gleam no lovely hues of hanging wood, No spots of sunshine light its sullen side ; For horror shaped the wild in wrathful moods, And o'er the tempest heaved the mountain's pride." A few miles from Wastwater are the ruins of Calder Abbey, which consist of four large and a few smaller arches, together with a range of cloisters clustered with ivy, and overshadowed by a row of stately elms. The abbey, or rather the remains of this abbey, are more than seven centuries old, having been founded for the 32 WAST WATER AND SCAWFELL LAKES. Cistercian order of monks by Banulph, second earl of Chester and Cumberland, (a.d. 1134.)* Of all its once princely pomp and pride, a few arches, and three tombstones, are the only remaining monuments. Of the rest of their history, or their fate, two words will suffice to tell their fallen glory — Preterit ^tas. * The building was cruciform, having north and south transepts, with a tower at the intersection, supported by light clustered pillars of excellent workmanship, about 24 feet in height, with capitals, ornamented by a roll, whence spring very beautiful pointed arches, which formed the cupola or Ian thorn, and being now the chief object in the remains. On the south side of the choir are three finely formed arched recesses of beautiful workmanship, and in good preservation, where were originally the sedilia. There are still a few remains of the cloisters sufficient to show they were beautiful specimens of the early English. A portion also of the colonnade is still remaining, the capitals and the columns of which are variously ornamented, the third arch being decorated with the zig-zag moulding so frequent in the old Norman architecture, which appears to have been the prevailing style throughout this building. ENNERDALE LAKE. " You see yon precipice ; — it wears the shape Of a vast building made of many crags ; And in the midst of one particular rock That rises like a column from the vale Whence by our shepherds it is called the Pillar.'" Wordsworth. This lake, situated in the beautiful and secluded valley of Enner- dale, is two miles and a half in length, and three-quarters of a mile wide, and its character is that of serene and peaceful grandeur, and it is surrounded on all sides by stern and lofty mountains. Beyond the head of the lake is the Valley of Gillerthwaite, a narrow dale, shut in by a range of rugged heights, between which it runs up to the foot of Great Gavel ; its western extremity agreeably diversified by the green pastures and waving woods of How Hall. The lake is seen from another and better point of view after the little hamlet of Ennerdale Bridge is passed, whence the road running through the village of Lamplugh leads at a distance of seven miles from Ennerdale, in sight of Lowes water. Charles Mackay says of Ennerdale : " This water lies out of the beaten track, and woos in vain the admiration of the great majority of those who penetrate into the lake district ; worthy of all admira- tion though it be. The scenery is wild and striking, and beyond its head are to be seen a confused assemblage of mountains, one of them, named the Pillar, rising to an elevation of 2893 feet. Arrived at the lake, it is not easy to procure a boat to sail or row up its waters in a straight direction towards Buttermere ; and if it were, 34 ENNEEDALE LAKE. it would be a matter of some difficulty to thread tlie mountain paths of the very wild and almost inaccessible region which hes between them." In 1852, two gentlemen, with a pony, but without a guide, went from Buttermere to Wastdale Head, by Scarf Gap and Black- sail. In Ennerdale Valley, wind and rain met them. They strug- gled part of the way along Blacksail, when they became bewildered and soon so exhausted that they had a narrow escape with their lives. But for a brandy flask, which one of them carried, they could not have survived, The^pony seems to have sank as rapidly as the men. It was on the same track that three young ladies lost their way, from dismissing their guide too soon, and actually staid all night on the mountain, where, if it had not been fine summer weather, they would have perished. LOWESWATEE. " I would I had a charmed bark To sail that lovely lake ; Nor should another prow but mine Its silver silence wake. No oar should cleave its sunny tide ; But I would float along, As if the breath that filled my sail "Were but a murmured song." — L. E. L. This pleasing little lake does not exceed a mile in length, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. The finest scenery is at its foot, where it falls into Crummock Water ; and its general character is that of sweet and placid retirement. From the north-east, from whence the accompanying sketch is taken, a fine view is obtained of Melbreak. West, the painter, says : " Nothing can exceed in com- position parts of this landscape. You have Melbreak on the right, Grasmere on the left, and betwixt them a stupendous amphitheatre of mountains. In the centre of this amphitheatre is a huge, pyramidical, broken rock, that seems with its figure to change place as you move across the foreground, and which helps to give variety to the scene." Miss Martineau recounts an adventure which hap- pened to her crossing Blake Fell to Loweswater. " The distance to Scale Hill Inn was only six miles, the time summer, and the track well marked on map and mountain. The heat was excessive that day ; so we lagged behmd the guide, on the ascent, though he car- ried knapsack and baskets. The guide quietly observed that there would be rain by and bye. Next, when we were in the middle of the wide fell, and we saw how puzzhng the network of swampy paths must be at all times, we pointed out to one another how the 36 LOWESWATER. light fleeces of cloud below swept round in a circle, following each other like straws in an eddy. Soon the dark mass came driving up at such a rate that it was clear we should not finish our walk in good weather. The dense mist was presently upon us. On look- mg behind, we saw a few flashes of lightning burst from it. The thunder had for some time been growling afar, almost incessantly. We were walking on wild ground, now ascending, now descending ; a deep tarn on our right hand, our feet treading on slippery rushes, or still more slippery grass. Within a few minutes, one of us had six falls from the force of the wind and the treachery of the ground. It was impossible to stop the guide, for a moment's breath. In the roar of the blast, and crash of the thunder, and pelt of the hail, one might have spoken to the elements ; so it was necessary for us all to keep up our pace, that he might not stride away from us entirely. Through stumblings and slidings innumerable, we did this. The hail and rain had drenched us to the skin in three minutes. In this weather we went plunging on for four miles, through spungy bogs, turbid streams, whose bridges of stones were hidden in the rushing waters, or by narrow pathways, each one of which was converted by the storm into an impetuous brook. When we had descended into a region where we could hear ourselves speak, we congratulated one another on our prudence in having engaged a guide." HAWESWATER. " Admiring Nature in her wildest grace, These northern scenes with weary feet I trace, O'er many a winding dale and painful steep, Th' abode of covey'd grouse and timid sheep. The meeting cliffs each deep-sunk glen divides, The woods, wild-scatter'd, clothe their ample sides ; Th' out-stretching lake, embosom'd 'mong the hills The eye with wonder and amazement fills." Burns. Haweswater is but a small lake, being little more than three miles long and half a mile in breadth : towards the middle, two promon- tories, advancing into the lake, as in Thirlmere, till they almost meet, reduce it to a strait, and divide it into two sheets of water, each of which forms a distinct and pleasing view. On the north western side, just above the little village of Measand is a small cataract, called Thwaite Force : from this point — the subject of our sketch — there is a fine view of both extremities of the lake, but that of the head is unquestionably the finer ; enclosed by steep and craggy mountains, at the foot of which a few green fields impart a pleasing variety to the scene. The view is shut in by the lofty tops of High Street, whilst to the left, thickly covered with wood, is the Weird Hill of Wallow Crag. Tradition says that the spirit of James, last earl of Lowther, for some time haunted these quiet vales, to the great disturbance of the inhabitants, who were frequently much annoyed by the untimely wanderings of the miserly " Jamie Law- ther," as he was familiarly teraied. In their dilemma they applied to the right reverend Vicar of Bampton, who, after a severe tuss- ling, finally succeeded, by dint of superior book-learning, in lodging the refractory ghost in the dim depths of Wallow Crag. 38 HAWESWATER, Toward the southern end of the lake, the valley winds consider- ably, and the view, although it loses much of its bold character, is still very beautiful. " Its eastern shore," says Mrs. Anne RadcHffe, " rises on a tremendous ridge of rocks, darkened with wood to the summit, and appears to terminate in Wallow Crag, a promontory of towering height, beyond which the lake winds from the view. The finally broken mountains on the west are covered with heath, and their tops impend in crags and precipices, but their descent from the water is less sudden than that of the opposite rocks, and they are skirted by a narrow margin of vivid green, on which cattle are feeding ; and tufted shrubs and little groves overhang the lake, and are reflected in its dark surface." Mardale Chapel stands at the head of the lake overshadowed by dark yews and spreading sycamores, beyond which all is wild and terrific desolation ; the narrow glen is strewn with rough masses of rock, which the force of the raging elements has torn from the heights above, whilst the craggy tops of Harter Fell and High Street surmount all, fraught with seeming destruction to the adventurous traveller, till on proceeding further and turning short to the right, the beautiful and fertile valley of Mardale, which pre- sents a varied beauty of scenery, opens to our view. - ir 5 1 n^ia^^Bwi^M^^^^^^pll^^^^./ ^ ^ ^H^B^|BBI^B^^^Bj|B^^ ^^8ggMp|ii 1 f ^ ^l^^^^^^m ^ ^m ^^"^^BBt \m 1 ''^ /^^^BH^^Ul I (^ :; •^ 1 < ^ ^ ^ ^^^^^^& k gg '* -"^^&'^^^^^} ;;. S 'xv'~^^^^yUK{|^KK,' rv. v^^^^^^^KmjK^g^M, P "^^HHm ^ /^^^^^■^■H ^ 1 'j^HnKHB^^^^^S^^^^vi^^mUnKv 1 ' ^ .^^^^^^a^^^^^^^^^^^BiS 1 ^^^^^B^^B^^Mg^^^^^^^y} ^ ^t^KK^^^^^^^^^m ^ ^^^^^^^^P ^^^^^^^^m! ^ 'gJJS^p. '*^:^':^^^^ V Cgfc ^^^"^^^ .^ -~y -"f '^^^^^h^^^^^^ V •'" " *^^^^^^ .^ '^ r^^^^^^^W^^C^^B^S <--^ ^ '^^^^^^^^ ULLS WATER. '* Delicious Grasmere's calm retreat And stately Windermere I greet, And Keswick's sweet fantastic vale ; But let her Naiads yield to thee, And lowly bend the knee, Imperial lake of Patrick's Dale ! — Cumberland. Ullswater is, next to Windermere, the largest of the English lakes, being nine miles in length and the average breadth of half a mile. At the head of the lake are three rocky islets, called Cherry Holm, Wall Holm, and House Holm : the two former of these are not worthy of any particular notice, but the last is a good station for viewiDg the surrounding scenery. Ullswater is divided into three reaches or points of view, (each of which has the appearance of a distinct lake) by the mountains of Hallen Fell and Helvellyn, which, causing it to diverge, the first to the west and the latter to the south east, render it not unlike in form to the letter Z. The scenery of Ullswater varies considerably ; the lower reach, or divi- sion, of the lake, which always should he, and generally is, seen first, is very tame ; but the second reach, in itself beautiful, is rendered doubly interesting by the unexpected change in the land- scape. The barren rocky sides of Place Fell, and the wooded heights of Gowbarrow Park rising abruptly from the lake ; whilst the vast Helvellyn pushing forward one rocky root (St. Sunday Crag) quite to the water's edge, rears his lofty head in majesty above the little hills which nestle round him. A further advance towards the head of the lake gradually discloses the yet more magnificent scenery of the upper reach, broken by its rocky islets, and shut in by the frowning summits of High Street, Birk Fell, Place Fell, and Helvellyn. Embarking at Pooley Bridge, the lower reach opens inmiediately into a magnificent sheet of water, which is 40 ULLS WATER. of itself no inconsiderable lake, being three miles in length, and rather more than three quarters of a mile in breadth. The shores, though not particularly bold, are well fringed with wood, and orna- mented with several elegant villas, some of which, standing on ele- vated situations, command extensive views of the lower reach of the lake and the surrounding country, whilst others are built nearer to the lake, with ornamental lawns running down to the water's edge. Advancing up the lake the scene becomes gradually more wild and romantic — the pointed crags grow yet more rough and barren, and the impending heights more dark and terrible in beauty — till, on passing the delightful villas of Watermellock and Halsteads, and shooting round the promontory, we burst at once upon the bright and beauteous prospect of the second reach. Proceeding up the lake, and entering on the upper reach, the landscape increases still in grandeur and magnificence. The otherwise smooth surface of this reach is varied and broken by its rough and rocky islets, in passing which the charming vale of Glenridding first opens to the view : then Patterdale unfolds itself — the fertile, the romantic, the far-famed Patrick's Dale, with its ancient Hall, its humble church, its green fields sloping to the water's edge, and its proud and lofty mountains. UUswater is the most magnificent of the English lakes ; Win- dermere is more rich, but wants its infinite variety ; Derwentwater is grand, but it is a grand epitome of Ullswater ; Grasmere is a scene of sweet and calm seclusion, but this is the stronghold of nature. " For neither Scottish Lomond's pride, Nor smooth Killarney's silver tide, Nor aught that learned Poussin drew, Or dashing Eosa flung upon my view, Shall shake thy sovereign, undisturbed right, Great scene of wonder and sublime delight." ^ L