p OUN 5 U BRAKY ^y The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924074309679 In compliance with current copyright law, Cornell University Library produced this replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984 to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. 1995 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES THE AUTHOR OF "SARDINIA AND ITS RESOURCES" LONDON GEORGE PHILIP & SON 32 FLEET STREET, E.G. LIVERPOOL: 45-51 SOUTH CASTLE STREET 1895 S CONTENTS CHAPTER I FiRSi Discovery and Early History — Situation and Extent — Sir Walter Raleigh's Expedition — Gold Working — Inhabitants — Population — Habits and Characteristics of Natives — Probable Extinction of Aborigines pp. 1-13 CHAPTER II Sugar — Location and Abe as of Plantations — Irrigation — Cultivation and Cutting — Crushing and Manu- factobing — Rum — Molasses — Improved Processes — Labour Cost — Coolie Immigration — ^Present Condi- tion and Prospects .... pp. 15-25 CHAPTER III Gold-fields — Improved Means of Access — Statistics op Placer and Alluvial Workings — Quartz Reefs — Gold Mining — Mining Laws — Prospecting, Develop- ing, and Working — Labour — Precious Stones pp. 27-53 CONTENTS CHAPTEE IV Forests — DiFJFEKEjrT Varieties of Tkebs — Timber Lands AND Grants — Cost op Labour — Bye-Products — Soil — Climate — Cereals — Vegetables — Fruits — Pastoral Capabilities — Fisheries . . pp. 55-62 CHAPTER V Fauna and Flora — Absence of Big Game — Quadrupeds — Bats — Birds — Fishes — Reptiles — Frogs — Insects — Great Variety op Flora ^Savannahs — Palms — Orchids pp. 6-3-74 CHAPTER VI Geological Formation — Physical Features — Roraima Mountain — Kaieteur Falls — ^North-West Territory — Georgetown — Climate — Hotels — Clubs — Public Institutions — Society — ^Education — Recreation pp. 76-85 CHAPTER VII Political Constitution — Revenue and Expenditure — Telegraphs and Telephones — Internal Cojimunica- TioN — Railways — Waterways — -Communication with Other Countries — Inducements to Travellers pp. 87-97 APPENDIX Venezuelan Frontier .... pp. 99-104 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES CHAPTER I First Discovery and Early History — Situation and ExTEafT — Sir Walter Raleigh's Expedition — Gold Working — Inhabitants — Population — Habits and Characteristics of Natives — Probable Extinction OF Aborigines. British Guiana, more generally known as Demerara, is a country unknown to most Englishmen, and is often classed as one of the West Indian Islands ; it in fact forms the north-east shoulder of South America, and is the only English possession on that vast continent. It lies from three to eight degrees north of the Equator, and has, there- fore, a tropical climate. Its first discovery is involved in some obscurity ; it being uncer- tain whether the honour is due to Columbus, 2 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES or Vasco Nunes and Diego de Orgas ; but, according to the earliest authentic re- cords, the first settlement in the country was effected by some Hollanders, who, about the year 1580, located themselves on the Pomeroon and Essequibo rivers ; and about forty years latei' the Dutch Government undertook to supply them with slaves. In the years 1732 and 1739 "constitutions" were granted to Berbice and Demerara, and permission was given " to lay out sugar plantations," but colonisation appears to have proceeded very slowly. In 1787 the districts of Demerara, Essequibo, and Berbice (which then formed the chief settlements, but were sparsely inhabited), were captured by the English, who within the year sur- rendered them, together with all the Dutch West India colonies, to the French, from whom they were a few years afterwards re- captured by the Dutch, and in 1796 were again handed back to England. At the Peace of Amiens (six years afterwards), they were once more restored to Holland; but, on the breaking out of the great war, this country — ^for the third time, and within the short peiiod of sixteen years — came back BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 3 once more into English possession, and has so remained ever since. The total area of the colony is estimated at 110,000 square miles, about the same size as the United Kingdom ; but, owing to the somewhat undefined line of frontier with Venezuela, and the imperfect maps of the country, the extent cannot be given with any degree of accuracy. Of this area a narrow strip of land stretching along the sea-coast — a few miles in width and con- taining about 80,000 acres — is planted with sugar-cane, and an equal acreage is under grass ; but the rest of the colony consists wholly either of dense forest, or open savan- nahs, and is, with some isolated exceptions — where timber has been felled, gold working- carried on, or searching for indiarubber, talapa, orchids, or other products, has been made — entirely undeveloped, indeed almost unknown, and totally unexplored. The colony has hitherto rested its reputa- tion for fame upon the superior excellence of its sugars, " Demerara Crystals " having for a long period had a world-wide celebrity, which, in spite of subsidies, bounties, and prohibitive tariffs, has been retained to the 4 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES present day. This reputation, however, seems destined in the near future to be merged in the higher distinction of being known as one of the richest and most extensive gold- producing countries in the world ; indeed, it would almost seem as if the golden visions, which haunted the fertile brain of the ill- fated Raleigh, were now, after a lapse of three centuries (this year being the ter- centenary of the great adventurer's expe- dition to the colony), on the very eve of realisation. The mythical city of El Dorado, paved with gold, and the golden lake have not, it is true, yet been reached, nor has the far-famed " Golden Mountain " been pierced, but the precious metal in " fabulous quanti- ties " is being discovered in almost every part of the colony. Knowledge of the existence of gold deposits, and of their having been extensively worked before the days of Raleigh, is evidenced by the " narratives " of the " adventurers " on their return to England ; it is there stated that " images one-half of pure gold," and " great pieces of white spar in which gold was visible," were brought to them by the natives, who wore " eagles of gold on their breasts " and " were BRITISH GUlANA AND ITS RESOURCES 5 covered with gold when dancing." It is further narrated that a superstitious dread of the " Gold-mother " on the part of the natives deterred them from showing the exact locality where the precious metal was to be found ; every artifice was used to prevent further searching ; and the enter- prise as a commercial undertaking was, as is historically known, a complete failm-e. Why this wealth of gold has since then been allowed to lie hidden and unproductive for so long a period is not easy of esplanation, but from the earliest days it would appear that obstacles to its working have been per- sistently interposed. At the commencement of the seventeenth century " gold-hunting " was absolutely prohibited under special enactment by the Dutch (the then rulers of the country), and the sugar-planters have, for various reasons, continuously discouraged it. Indeed, until quite recent years there is no record of any systematic prospecting for, still less any actual production of gold, either by the crushing of quartz or the wash- ing of alluvial in " any of the Guy anas." Spasmodic efforts have at long intervals been occasionally made by sanguine gold- 6 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES seekers during the present century, and about thirty-five years ago a small crushing- mill was at considerable cost transported to the Cuyuni River by some local capitalists ; but, before its erection, doubts were raised as to whether the locality was strictly within the limits of the Colony ; and, as the then governor did not seem disposed to grant either protection or encouragement, the miU and machinery were abandoned, and from that day to this have lain in the bush, rust- ing and in ruins ; and it was not till the year 1884 that any practical working was done, and the first shipment of gold from the colony was made. The gold then obtained was from alluvial washings on the same river, and not far distant from the site of the abandoned mill ; the amount was small — about 250 ounces — but every year since then the output has steadily increased, and for the past two years the shipments have reached a total of over 130,000 ounces, having a standard value of nearly half a million sterling. It is proposed to give a description in detail of these new gold-fields, their origin, progress, present position and future pros- BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 7 pects ; but a short glance at the country generally, its physical and climatic condi- tions, the mixed races which inhabit it, its political constitution, its staple industries and general resources, will be desirable. The inhabitants of British Guiana com- prise not only various distinct nationalities, but they have so intermarried, and their intercourse has been so indiscriminate, that a pure breed of any particular nation (except perhaps English) is seldom met with ; and yet there are no defined crosses such as octoroons or quadroons. A Creole, a term which is generally understood as implying some strain of black blood, is a person born in the colony, whether white or parti-coloured, but not black, and it has much the same general signification as " Africander " at the Cape. The total population according to the last census (1891) was 288,320, being an in- crease of 10 per cent, on the previous decade ; the two towns, Georgetown and New Amsterdam, numbering together over 60,000. The native Indians (Warraws, Arawaks, Caribs, &c.), generically termed Bucks, living in the interior, are estimated at 8 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 10,000 ; the sugar plantations and adjoining villages supply between them the bulk of the remainder, which is composed of coolies (mainly imported from Madras and Calcutta) and negroes (descendants of emancipated slaves) in nearly equal halves, the former having rather the predominance, and inter- mixed are about 3500 Chinese. The white population numbers 16,000, of whom 4000 are English and the remainder Portuguese ; the latter came originally from Madeira and the Azores to work on the plantations, but gradually took to petty trading as shop- keepers and pedlars ; and they now monopolise almost all the provision and rum shops in ever)- town and village, and, being busy, thrifty, energetic, and industrious, they have made themselves of considerable importance. They are the largest owners of property in the colony except the sugar planters, and there is scarcely a market-garden that does not belong to them. The negroes, soon after their emancipation, left the plantations, most of them taking up their quarters in the villages on either their old or some other plantation. The bulk have now become gold-diggers ; but they are BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 9 to be found in every trade and occupation as shopmen, schoolmasters, clerks, &c. ; and the more intelligent and ambitious have entered the professions of law and medicine, and have raised themselves into prominent posi- tions. In public and social life they are treated as equals with the whites, in marked contrast with the treatment of Kaffirs in the Transvaal, where they are looked upon as a degraded and inferior race. The native Indians may be said to be divided into two classes : those who live on the banks of the rivers and creeks, and who are engaged either as wood-cutters or boatmen, and lead a comparatively settled life in houses of their own erection, and those who have no fixed home, and lead a nomadic life, wandering over all the Guianas and the more northern portions of Brazil and Venezuela. These are as primitive now in their dress, manners, and customs as their ancestors were when the country was first discovered. They are, however, tractable, peaceable, and inoffensive ; their knowledge of wood-craft is marvellous, aiid to the adventurous traveller they are now, as they were in the davs of Waterton, a wonderful lo BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES help In times of doubt and difficulty. Their food consists of beasts, birds, and fish — the produce of their bows and arrows, or blow- pipe — supplemented by bread made from "cassava," a preparation (chiefly starch) from the tubers of the manioc plant, from which the tapioca of commerce is also derived. The grating, squeezing, and baking required in preparing this food form the chief occupation of the women. This vegetable, yams or sweet potatoes, and capsicums, are the only plants they cultivate. Their drink, other than water, consists of a fermented and intoxicat- ing liquor expressed from cassava, and called piwarri. Drunkenness among the natives is, however, rare. The houses of the more settled of these tribes are well adapted to the conditions of life and climate under which they are placed. The principal building (called a " benab ") is . a good-sized rectangular structure, supported by posts driven firmly into the ground a few feet apart ; the sides are left open, and the roof is made of the palm or " troolie " leaves, which, fi-om their great width and thickness, form protection against both sun and rain. Hammocks are slung from the posts and BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES ii cross-pieces along the sides and ends of the building, and in the centre is an open fire- place, furnished with a few simple cooking utensils, the most important of which is the irrepressible, never-failing pepper-pot, a large blackened earthen bowl into wiiich every piece of meat, fish, and vegetable is thrown, and kept in a continuous state of simmering. This concoction, flavoured with an extract from cassava, after the poisonous juice, called " cassareep," has been extracted, half-baked and half-boiled, makes a most acceptable compound, and comprises the entire meal. The bitter manioc root, from which cassava is produced, is generally grown in small de- tached clearings in the forest, made by cutting and stripping the underbush and burning the trees (the charred stumps of which remain standing), and then planting the cleared ground from cuttings of old plants, by stick- ing them into the ground a few inches deep and a few feet apart, and in less than twelve months they come to maturity. Yams and sweet potatoes with capsicums (pepper) are sometimes grown with them in small plots, but the "staff of life" is cassava, and, if this crop fails, seeds and wild fruit of the 1.2 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES poorest and meanest kind alone ward off starvation. The natives are of different tribes, and differ in colour, physique, language, and customs. The Carib (the Cannibal-guardian of the coast) is almost extinct, and the War- raws, Arawaks, and Acawois are becoming half-civilised ; but the other and wilder tribes who inhabit the dense forests and open plains of the interior stiU retain their old manners and customs ; they use tattoo-marks on their faces and bodies, but inter-tribal battles are things of the past, and war-paint is never used. The men generally have a strip of blue cloth fastened round their waists, and the women are in full dress when wearing a bead apron. At their great festivals, called " pywarries," the men are sometimes deco- rated with head-dresses of feathers, and wear teeth necklaces and strings of beetles round their bodies, which during dancing make a continuous rattle ; their bronze skins are on such occasions grotesquely marked with red, blue, purple, and white-coloured paints in strong contrasts. They are not gregarious ; three or four families, living within the same cluster of huts, form an average community, BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 13 and the old custom of choosing a chief is dying out ; they seem to dread any contact with civilisation, and are retiring, as wood- cutters and gold-prospectors advance further into the interior. The death-rate amongst their children is very high, and, like the Red Indians of North Amei'ica, they seem destined in the near future to become ex- tinct. CHAPTER II Sugar — Location and Areas of Plantations — Irri- gation — Cultivation and Cutting — Crushing and Manufacturing— Rum — Molasses — Improved Pro- cesses — Labour Cost — Coolie Ijimigratiox — Pre- sent Condition and Prospects. In the early days of Dutch colonisation, about the beginning of the seventeenth century, the first sugar plantations were laid out under an express authority from the Holland States, who at the same time under- took to supply the planters with " slaves from Africa," and this supply was kept up by the Dutch, and subsequently by the English, until the general emancipation of slaves in 1834. It is interesting to note that the Gladstone family were amongst the earliest and largest possessors of these slave- owning properties ; that they received on the emancipation their proportionate share of the twenty millions sterling voted as compensation ; and that these same estates i6 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES remained in possession of members of the family till a few years ago, when the bounty was taken off sugar, and when the last of the Gladstone property was sold, the late Premier of England being a party to the deed of transfer. The plantations are situate wholly on the sea-coast, or on the banks of the rivers and on the islands in the tide-way. They all have frontages to the sea or river, and those on the mainland are of oblong shape, extend- ing backwards into the interior for several miles, and ending where the bush or savan- nah begins. Each proprietor has a right to extend further inland, and take more land into cultivation on nominal terms ; but the limit of suitable ground has in most cases been reached, and it would not pay to take in more of the "bush" or "savannah" that bounds the existing cane-lands. Plant^ations, though originally of the same size — about a quarter of a mile frontage to sea or river, and 3| miles in depth inland — are now, by purchase, amalgamation, enlarge- ment, or abandonment, of varying extents, ranging from 300 to 3000 acres. The culti- vated lands are nearly all below high-water BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 17 level, and are protected from the sea and the rivers by heavy and costly dams, and from the surface waters of the interior by smaller embankments ; they are intersected by a system of canals and sluices, which carry off the waters to the sea at low water, and pre- vent the ingress of the flowing tides. Where necessary, and in times of excessive rain (for occasionally as much as 13 inches fall in 24 hours), the waters in the upper reaches of the canals are pumped over the sluice-gates into the lower reaches by powerful steam- engines ; and the cost of this operation and of repairing the embankments form no in- considerable items in the expense of working a sugar estate. These canals, with an infinity of smaller cuts and trenches or open drains, not only keep the sugar plants free from excessive surface water, but serve as waterways for carrying the canes from the fields to the crushing-mills and factories, and afterwards for taking the manufactured sugar to the landing stage on the railway, or to the jetty on the coast, and thence on by boat to Georgetown, or other port of shipment. The lands so enclosed or surrounded by i8 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES dams aie called " empoldered," and it is on this acreage that the land taxation of the colony is wholly levied. Cane-fields do not, however, occupy the whole of this enclosed area, the lands nearest the sea — and gener- ally, therefore, the lowest and wettest — are used as pasture for cattle, horses, goats, and sheep ; and other parts are covered with plantains, bananas, cocoanuts, and other tropical fruits and vegetables, which find a i-eady market in the towns and villages at remunerative prices. Sup'ar cultivation is carried on almost entirel}^ by manual labour, ploughing either by steam or oxen having many years ago been tried and failed, owing mainly to the frequency of the intersecting trenches and drains ; and no machine has j^et been in- vented for cutting the canes as cheaply and effectively as by hand, with a knife shaped like a cutlass. The average life of the sugar- cane is about five years ; on the first planting, and after each replanting, the ground is dug to a depth of eight or ten inches with long- shafted spades or forks dexterously handled by coolies ; and the plants, which are mostly the tops of the cut canes, about twelve inches BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 19 long, but sometimes the stools of the old canes, are allowed to spring up, are put into the ground In rows three or four feet apart and at a distance of one foot from each other. In fourteen or fifteen months they are fit to cut, and are afterwards cut once a year dur- ing the four following years ; after the age of five years they are considered past their prime, and on a well-managed plantation are stubbed up and the ground is replanted. The plants grow straight to a height of seven or eight feet, and then assume a drooping pos- ture, and when in flower have a striking appearance, changing the general colour of the fields from green to silver grey. The stalks — of which there are seldom fewer than twelve to each root — alone are carried to the mill, the leaves being stripped off, left on the ground, and raked into the smaller trenches, where in rotation they are dug into the ground and serve as manure. When the plants need artificial nurture, nitrate of soda, superphosphate, and mineral phosphates are the most generally applied manures ; but the fact that canes have been grown continuously on the same ground for over one hundred years without deterioration is strong proof 20 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES against the necessity of rotation of cropping. Sometimes plants from other cane-fields are used, but the tops from the same fields are, as a rule, planted again. In recent years canes have been raised from seed, under charge of Government botanists and chemists, at the Botanical Gardens m Georgetown, and the experiments carried on seem likely to lead to very decided improvements. The canes, on reaching the mill, are thrown from the boats (which are tugged along the canals by mules) on to a travelling inclined- plane, which carries them to the crushing- rollers, and, whilst passing, a stream of boil- ing water is poured upon the broken cane, and the saccharine liquor or juice is caught in troughs ; the dry crushed cane passes away and, when dried, is used as fuel for the fur- naces, effecting a great saving in the con- sumption of coal. The juice after boiling is evaporated by an apparatus called " Triple Effet," or " Yaryan," into a syrup, and is then crystallised in vacuum pans. This crystallised production, called " masse cuite," is then thrown into " centrifugals," and the moisture is driven out in the shape of mo- lasses, the sugar being left adhering to the BRITISH GUIANA AXD ITS RESOURCES 21 centrifugal baskets. Sugar in this state is either brown or yellow for the English, and grey for the American market. The whole series of operations, from the cutting of the cane to packing the sugar into bags for ex- portation, is all completed within a few hours, whilst under the old open-pan system the process occupied as many weeks. A fair average good crop of cane is about fifty tons to the acre, and from fifteen to eighteen tons will produce a ton of sugar and eighty-five gallons of molasses, which latter, when made into rum, yields about thirty-five gallons ; in other words, a well- managed plantation will produce yearly an average of about one and a half ton of sugar and half a puncheon of rum per acre. A second-class sugar is made fi:om molasses, and forms from 10 to 15 per cent, of the first-class. Many plantations have distilleries for making rum attached to them, and the molasses are then treated either in a "con- tinuous still," or by the old-fashioned copper still. The cost of labour in all these various pro- cesses forms about one-half the total cost of production ; the other half being made up of 22 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES stores, materials, fuel, artificial manures, transport and shipping, the keeping up of schools and hospitals, and in general manage- ment. Coolies supply the chief part of all the labour ; indeed, exclusive of the manager, overseers, and mechanics, the negroes engaged in cane-cutting and a few Chinese, the whole work, both in the fields and fac- tories, is done by East Indians, who are imported into the country from Madras and Calcutta to the number of 5000 or 6000 every year. Every large sugar estate constitutes a sort of community in itself The mansion of the manager (for the proprietors are now nearly all absentees from the colony, or, at all events, do not reside on their estates) is situated close to the mill in a large well-kept garden, and close by are the overseers' and mechanics' houses and shops, and then stretching for nearly a mile both ways along the banks of the main canal are rows of cottages, in which the coolies and other labourers live. On some of the largest plantations the population in these villaores will number between 2000 and 3000 ; the BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 23 people are well cared for, hospitals, schools, and places of worship being provided at the cost of the proprietors, and under the super- vision of Government. The annual cost of this coolie immigration averages £100,000 a year, being about £20 per head, one-third of which is paid by Government, and the other two-thirds by the planters, amongst whom it is assessed in proportion to the numbers employed. Every immigrant coolie is, on arrival at the colony, " indented," i.e., placed under contract for employment for five years at stated wages, and at the end of the time, or at any later period, he is allowed a free passage back to India. The majority, however, prefer to remain in the colony, and either continue to work on the same estate or engage in some other occupation, such as shop-keeping or market-gardening. It is, however, stated that on an average 2000 men, women, and children return every year to the East, and they do not return empty- handed, it being computed that during the last forty-five years — since, in fact, any accurate account was kept— these immigrants have taken home in cash and jewels no less a sum than $3,000,000. These savings are 24 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES regarded as some compensation for the loss of caste sustained by living in the colony ; for, though during their sojourn there they keep up their peculiar habits and customs as strictly as they can, yet the mere fact of leaving their own, and living in a strange, country, involves a certain loss of caste, which never can be wholly regained. In these days of severe competition, every new appliance for cheap and effective manu- facturing has to be adopted, and it is greatly to the credit of the Demerara planters that they have taken the lead in almost every improvement. An enormous sum has been spent of late years in experiments, much of which has been lost, but great economies have been effected, and the general results have been satisfactory. The last new prin- ciple — " diffusion " — whereby the cane, in lieu of being crushed, is sliced by rotarjr cutters and the chips boiled under steam pressure, will, it is said, again revolutionise the manufacture. This principle of boilino- instead of crushing, and thus extractino- almost every particle of saccharine matter (it is said to be 96 per cent, as against 85 per cent.), is no doubt theoretically correct ; Ijut BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 25 whether the additional extraction will pay for the extra cost and repay interest on the large expenditure necessarily incurred in displacing costly machinery and replacing it with other still more costly has yet to be proved. Until it is, the new principle is not likely to be universally adopted, even if the planters in general were financially able to afford it ; and unfortunately, from continuous bad seasons and low prices, very few of them are in that enviable position. The sugar trade, however, though at present languishing under most severe and unprecedented depression — owing mainly to the effect of the subsidies and bounties granted to Continental sugar, and to the new American tariff, which deprived Deme- rara of its " favoured nation" privilege — will no doubt improve ; indeed, there are already symptoms of revival, but there is at present o-reat and ffeneral distress, not unaccom- panied, in some cases, with actual insolvency and absolute ruin to some of the planters — a melancholy contrast with their position a few }'ears ago, when large fortunes were made, and luxuxious living, with profuse hospitality, \^'as universal. CHAPTER III Gold-fields — Improved Means of Access — Statistics OF Placer and Alluvial Workings — Quartz Reefs — Gold Mining — Mining Laws — Prospecting, Developing, and Working — Labour — Precious Stones. Gold, which in all ages and in all countries has brought about such marvellous results wherever it has been found and worked, is already beginning to produce its exhilarating effects in the colony. It is revolutionising the ideas of the people, and changing the general aspect of commercial and social life. Even sugar-planters — the most conservative and exclusive class of traders in the world — are rousing themselves from the state of apathetic depression which followed the lethargic contentment of a long period of prosperity, but of late rudely interrupted by successive bad seasons and continuous low prices, and are beginning to realise that there is another industry growing up in their 28 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES midst, which requires no large capital, no ex- pensive cultivation, is not dependent on weather or season, is subject to no market fluctuations, and can be carried on hand-in- hand with their old time-honoured industry, ^^'ith the prospect of enabling them to improve and extend the one out of the riches of the other without any fear of rivalry or competition. It would almost seem as if there were something magic in the very finding of gold in this, as in other colonies ; for, ere the effects of its discovery can have been ex- perienced, a joyous buoyancy of feeling is engendered, which is in turn creating confi- dent hopes of future fortunes, and diffusing expanded ideas and increased energies ; and in this country these beneficial results are already beginning to manifest themselves in all directions. Loafing idlers and would-be criminals have disappeared from the streets, and are busily engaged in unearthing the precious metal, which gives them the means of improving their position in a variety of ways ; some are repairing and enlaro-ing their old dwellings, adding outhouses and gardens and buying furniture ; others are BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 29 purchasing or building shops or increasing their deposits in the savings bank, or in starting businesses and making small invest- ments in various Industrial undertakings. Much of these earnings is no doubt spent in extravagances, but the money so spent — whether hi gay clothes, expensive or even riotous living — is not altogether wasted ; shop-keepers and other tradesmen, as also the revenue of the colony, are directly and substantially benefited, and no one can grudge or wonder at occasional excesses in- dulged in after a long spell of arduous labour and enforced privations at the diggings, or deny the right of these liberated toilers to spend their own hard-earned money in tlieir own way. The Government authorities, too, are becoming alive to a sense of the im- portance of, and the responsibility attaching to, this new source of national wealth, and are, under the energetic auspices of the pre- sent Colonial Minister, devising schemes for gi-anting concessions to capitalists (both here and in the colony) for opening-up the country, for establishing steamers on the upper waters of the great rivers, and subsi- dising the construction of roads and light 30 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES railways, so as to form a chain of land and water communication between the capital and the gold-fields and the interior generally, and thus, by expediting and cheapening transport, giving encouragement to an industry, the expansion of Avhich, whilst con- tributing largely to the revenue and general prosperity of the colony, will, at the same time, give back a direct return exceeding the interest on the outlay. The official recoi'ds of gold produced from 1884 to the present time show in a succinct form the progress of the gold industry. They are as follows : YEAKS. GOLD. oz. d. g. 1884 . ... . 250 188-5 939 1886 6.518 1 12 1887 . 10,986 14 1888-89 . . 20,216 1 8 1889-90 . 32,332 16 5 1890-91 . 66,864 4 21 1891-92 . . 110,.565 12 5 1892-93 134,124 7 23 1893-9-1 . . 1.38,527 16 14 1894 (April 1 to December 31) . 110,432 4 16 Total . 631,746 19 8 These results, marvellous as they are, are BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 31 rendered still more astonishing when the great physical difficulties and general sur- roundings are taken into account ; and when, too, it is borne in mind that the whole of* this output has been obtained exdusively from the washing of alluvial deposits along the banks of the smaller rivers and creeks, and that the work has been carried ou in the most primitive and unsystematic manner, by means of old-fashioned " sluices," " battels," and " toms," handled by men un- versed in gold-working, and supervised by overseers, mam' of whom are equally igno- rant and inexperienced. These alluvial deposits appear to be im- partially distributed over almost every part of the colony, and are now being worked on nearly every tributary of the great rivers, Essequibo, Mazaruni, Cuyuni, Barima, and Demerara. The deposits lie at a depth varying from a few inches to 15 feet below the surface, which is for the most part covered by a slight layer of soil and vege- table matter ; they consist of coarse and fine sand, pebbles of quartz, quartzite and green- stone, held together by tenacious brownish yellow clay, under which are found the auri- 32 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES ferous strata, varying in thickness from six inches to six feet, and beneath is a plastic clay, white or green, but generally green, in colour. These beds have evidently been formed from the wearing away in past ages, by the action of water and weather, of the rocky formations on the higher grounds, and have been carried down by water or glacial action into the valleys and flats below ; and they must, therefore, in a limited course of years — the exact period being necessarily dependent on their extent and the rapidity with which they are worked — be exhausted. Up to the present time no shafts have been sunk to any depth through the upper strata of these deposits for the purpose of testing whether there are deeper beds below, such as were found in Australia at considerable depths, and which have proved even richer than the shallower workings ; but this, no doubt, will follow, when the upper deposits have been Avorked out. In a large country such as this, nearly the whole of which seems to be auriferous, and not one thousandth part of which has yet been either " pro- spected" or "located," still less worked — it is not unreasonable to assume that these BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 33 alluvial fields will extend in the aggregate over a very large area, and will yield golden crops and highly remunerative returns for many years yet to come. Nor will the har- vest of gold end with the exhaustion of these deposits, for, when worked out, and, indeed, whilst that process is going on, the rocks (which are the sources of supply) will, by the combined application of science and laboui', be made to yield their precious products by a more rapid process than Nature, if left to herself, would in her own due time have brought forth. There need, therefore, be no apprehensions but that, for many years to come, this country, from one source or another, will be able to contribute for the world's supply a substantial proportion of the standard medium of currency. It must, however, be borne in mind that gold-mming is very difierent from alluvial washing or placer working, and has to be carried on under very different conditions. In almost every process of its production — in the sinking of shafts, driving of adits and cross-cuts, breaking, crushing, and milling of ore — skilled labour and considerable capital are needed ; and, in the amalgamation, 34 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES extraction, and saving of the gold, scientific treatment is required. These requisites will, no doubt, be amply forthcoming, when it is known that payable gold-reefs extensively exist, and this fact has already been proved, and is being practically tested on the Demerara and on the Barima in the North- west territory. On the Arakaka Creek in the Barima district extensive development works are being carried on, not only in placer working (which is turning out most productive), but in sinking pits and driving trenches and cross-cuts in the auriferous seams and beds of ore, and in the erection of mills and machinery for crushing and milling the ore. The reefs vary in thickness from twelve inches to six feet, and have " casings " or " foot and hanging walls " of decomposed diorite and granitic rock, be- tween which are bedded the auriferous quartz veins. The general direction (or "line of strike " as it is termed) is north-west and south-east, and the ore, in most cases, shows both coarse and fine gold, and is generally associated with black slate and manganese. It is "free milling," though how far below the surface this latter characteristic will BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 35 continue is uncertain, for in no case has any reef yet been proved to a greater depth than 120 feet. Pannings and assays of the ore from these reefs invariably give a good show of gold, yielding on an average more than 1 oz. to the ton of ore ; some of the richer reefs yield as much as 6 to 20 oz., and the poorest not less than 6 dwts. of gold to the ton. Pieces of quartz (in some cases weigh- ing several pounds) are frequently met with in placer woi'kings, and often contain as much gold as quartz ; one piece, weighing 509 oz., yielding 274 oz. of gold and 16 oz. of silver, was valued at £1000; indeed, so rich is this drift quartz, that it is often collected and crushed by hand in a mortar, and the gold produced repays the labour a hundredfold. Large nuggets of pure gold are occasionally met with ; they range in weight from a few dwts. to as many ounces, but rarely exceed 10 oz. ; the gold, however, is extremely pure, and averages £3 15s. per oz. It is marvellous to relate that the whole of the capital employed in placer working, and nearly the whole of the money expended in developing and working quartz-reefs, have, with some insignificant exceptions, been 36 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES raised and provided by the colonists them- selves, either individually, or by private partnerships, or through the medium ot Companies and Syndicates formed in the colony for these purposes ; the aggregate capital so subscribed cannot be much less than 82,000,000. This is a large sum to be found by so small a community, and it pre- sents an exceptional feature in the annals of British mining abroad, the funds for which, it may be safely stated, have been chiefly, if not entii'ely, derived from home. The re- sources of the colony available for mining development are for the time, however, almost exhausted ; and to carry out the operations now in progress fresh capital will have to be introduced from outside. In this colony, and as is almost invariably the case elsewhere, the cost of developing and working mines has been much under-estimated, and this fault has been aggravated in British Guiana by the fact that the local directors, obstinate and self-opinionated in their ignorance, had no knowledge of mining operations, or of com- pany supervision, and a large portion of the shareholders' money has been wasted in carrying on useless works under incompetent BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES ^y and extravagant management. In one in- stance a Company — the first formed, and formed, too, with most brilliant expecta- tions — has come to a disastrous end from these causes ; and in another, additional capital — found, however, entirely b}^ the Colonial shareholders in the Company — has had to be raised. In this latter instance it is announced that the development works are now completed, and that the mill and machinerj'-, which have been in the colony for some months, wiU be erected, and crush- ing operations commenced before the end of the year. Much will depend upon the results in the yield of gold then shown ; and as the engineer's and manager's reports are most encouraging, the greatest confidence in a satisfactory result is entertained ; indeed, it cannot be denied that, if this, the first real attempt at effective mining in the colony, should be disappointing, the blow inflicted for the time upon the gold industry will be serious and difficult to get over. A Company, formed in London several months ago, received so little support in the market that it never went to allotment, and another Company, of more recent date. 38 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES met with not much better response from the public, but the requisite capital was subse- quently subscribed privately. The nominal capital in the latter case would appear to be amply sufficient, but, unfortunatel}', in this, as in mining undertakings generally, a large sum is absorbed in payments for purchase money and promotion, leaving a compara- tively small sum in actual cash for develop- ment and working. In this case it is, however, considered sufficient, as the pro- perty had been tested and partial!}'' developed before it was purchased ; but it is earlj'^ yet to speak with certainty, and a definite opinion must be deferred till operations are more advanced, and the results of the crushings are known, and this — though with commendable despatch (as compared with directorial supineness in the colony) the machinery has already been shipped — cannot be ascertained for many months, and this English Company may yet be the pioneer of successful gold- mining in the colony. Meanwhile, however, public attention has been drawn towards the general development of the country b}^ an announcement from the Colonial Office of the willingness of BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 39 Government to grant large concessions to capitalists — whether in England or the colony — who will embark their money and devote their influence and energies to carry- ing out schemes for colonisation and sound development. The inducements thus held out, with the implied promise of Government support in the making of roads and im- proving of access generally, have already led to preliminary arrangements being entered into for the formation of such syndicates ; and there is a confident expectation that, ere many months are over, they will be brought in a practical shape before the public. It is to be hoped when these companies make their appearance, that their objects and purposes will be clearly defined, that the direction and management will be such as to inspire and deserve public confidence, that they will be free from the speculative taint which too frequently characterises commercial enter- prises, and — what is also of paramount im- portance — that they wall be backed by a large capital, amply sufficient to carry out fully and effectually the objects and purposes for which they are formed. Hitherto the want of these essentials has been the cause of 40 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES the lukewarmuess with whicli such under- takings liave been received, and of the ill- success they have so far met with in this country. New mining- laws, regulating the pros- pecting and working for gold, have recently been passed b}^ the Colonial Legislature ; they seem to be giving general satisfaction, and may be considered, on the whole, as favourable to both prospectors and miners. A prospecting licence — without which no one has a right to " search for gold " or " locate a claim " — is obtainable by any applicant at the Mines Office on payment of fifty cents, and is renewable monthly on a like payment ; the possession of this licence authorises the searching for gold on any unoccupied Crown lands, and the location of placer or mining areas, on which either gold-bearing reefs or auriferous deposits are found, or are believed to exist. The extent of a location is 1500 feet by 500 feet, covering a superficial area of 17i acres ; and in exceptional cases, at the discretion of the Governor, concessions of areas containing 500 acres are granted. All " locations " must be distinctly marked out bv a beacon at each corner, and by trendies BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 41 cut in the direction of the boundary lines, and be cleared of bush, and must extend lengthways along the strike of the reef. A notice stating the name of the person on whose Ijehalf the claim is located, with the date and number of the licence, must be affixed to each beacon in the presence of two witnesses. When these preliminary formali- ties have been complied with, an application has to be made within two months to the Mines Office for a " grant." This application has then to be advertised four times in the Official Gazette ; and, if no objection by a rival claimant be lodged, the location is at once allowed. From this time, not less than six men must be kept continuously at work on the claim (or " grant " as it is then called) and a rent of 82 per month for a mining, and $1 per month for a placer grant has thenceforth to be paid ; the grant, though nominally at the will of the Crown, is per- petual, so long as the rent is paid. The only other payment is a royalty of ninety cents per oz., which is equal to 5 per cent, upon the total value of the gold actually obtained. Complaints are, of course, made by prospectors and miners, who — like the farmers at home, 42 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES but with far less reason — are never satisfied, that the areas of claims are too small, and the payments too high ; but these grievances have little foundation ; and, compared with other countries and conditions, are most liberal. In the Transvaal, mining claims are 400 feet long by 150 feet broad, having a superficial area of H acre and the monthly rent for each location is £\, whilst in Demerara the highest monthly payment is little over one-third of this sum, and the area is twelve times as large. In North America, Australia, and other countries, the royalties and dimensions vary according to districts and circumstances, but in no place are they so favourable to prospectors as in British Guiana. In details, too, the regulations do not bristle with those petty, irritating provisions and liabilities to forfeiture which are so exasperating and discouraging in other countries. In fact, when once a claim is registered, no location can be "jumped"; it can only be lost by forfeiture or aban- donment. The regulations, however, are by no means perfect, and some amendments are needed BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 43 for the better defining of areas and marking of boundaries ; and a reduction of royalty, as soon as extensive crushing operations are carried on, will have to be made. During the short period that placer work- ing has been carried on there have been several marvellous successes. One small Syndicate on the Mazaruni river, no great distance from the disputed ground, with a capital of $13, 500 in 4500 shares of $3 each, returned in the first thi-ee years to its fortu- nate members a dividend of $1 per share per month, which is equal to 400 per cent, per annum, but it is now almost exhausted ; and there are other placers worked by individuals which are producing still more, one placer on the Essequibo having paid no less than £20,000 a year for the first four years on a capital of £180 contributed by two Portuguese merchants, the other partner (a Frenchman) taking the remaining one-third for his share, as " discoverer and locator." Many other instances could be given of working men, in conjunction with small capitalists, making as many hundred dollars per month as were originally em- barked in the enterprise. These, of course, 44 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES are some of the prizes ; but tlie blanks are- many, arising, however, iu most cases from ignorance or dishonest}'. The modus ojierandi of prospecting has generally been as follows : A prospector, usually a coloured man, knows of some place where there is, or he thinks, or has been told, there is, alluvial gold ; he applies to some tradesman or clerk, or any one else, who is known to have speculative tendencies and a small sum of money at command, and he pro- poses that, if provisions and a crew be found, he will proceed to " prospect " and " locate " in their joint names, " on sharing terms," the person finding the capital taking the larger share (generally two-thirds), and the pro- spector the other third in the enterprise; and, if the prospector has any mining know- ledge or common honesty, success generally follows. When gold has been found, either on the surface, or by digging and panning the alluvial soil, the claim is "located." A journey back to the capital is then usually taken to perfect the location at the Mines Office, and to make arrangements for working. For effecting this, a gang of black labourers, with a few shovels, picks, and battels, wages and BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 45 provisions for three months, are all that is needed. A sum of from £50 to £150, depen- dent on the scale of operations,, will amply provide these requisites, and within two months, even if the placers are only of moderate richness, there will be enough gold produced to pay oft' the first expenditure, keep the placer at work, and give profitable returns in the future. On arriving at the location with men and stores, the first opera- tion is to select the site for a camp, and to build sheds (called "logics") for the pro- spector and men to live in, and for sheltering the provisions and stores. In this selection water is an essential, not only for domestic purposes, but for working the placer, and the situation should be either on or near to the banks of a creek, so as to enable a trench to be cut with the requisite fall to work the sluices. The line of the proposed trench, and the ground it is pro- posed to work, must then be cleared of wood, the trench dug, sluices with " stop-offs " and dams (where necessary) made, and the sluice- boxes set up ; meanwhile other men have been clearing off" the top layer of earth, and exposing the " pay-dirt" ready for washing. 46 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES Great care is taken to ensure that the sluice is placed in a position to work as much ground as possible, otherwise, as the workings proceed, a fresh trench has to be dug. The sluice-boxes should not, however, be sunk with too much fall, for although the greater fall allows more " pay-dirt " being washed in a given time, yet it also allows the finer por- tions of gold to be carried over the " riffles " by the rush of water ; and the advantage of treating a greater quantity of gravel is thus often more than counterbalanced by the less saving of gold. The number of men em- ployed at a sluice varies according to its size and extent ; for an average sluice eight to nine men are usually allowed, two to uncover the soil and fill the sluice, two to deal with the tailings, or refuse soil, and the rest to attend to the sluice-box and keep it clear. Hydraulicing, which has been adopted on a large scale with such wonderful results in California and other countries, does not seem to be practicable in this country, for though a sufficient volmne of water could generally be obtained, the necessary fall for the tail race would be wanting ; for the gold deposits are found on the low and flat lands lying BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 47 along the river banks where the water is sluggish, and indeed almost a dead level for miles. The wages paid to the ordinary black labourer are sixty-four cents per day ; but, in addition, he has to be fed, housed, and supplied with medicine and medical comforts, and these latter items form no inconsiderable sum ; for, though there is seldom serious ill- ness amongst the blacks, there is much " shamming " to avoid work, and the average cost per man (including over-lookers) cannot be put down at less than $1 per day, inclu- sive of Sundays, when no work is carried on. The other working expenses are, however, comparatively trifling ; on a fairly good- yielding and fairly well- managed placer the total cost varies from 50 to 70 per cent, of the value of the gold obtained ; on rich placers it is considerably less, not more than one-third, and on the poor placers it is much greater. This percentage of expense is, how- ever, undoubtedly high, and it is mainly, indeed almost wholly, caused by the great cost and loss of time in the transport of men and provisions to the field of operation. This, however, will be materially reduced 48 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES when the steamer and railway communica- tions now contemplated are completed. The saving in working expenses at the more inaccessible workings will be reduced at least one-third, in some cases even more, and the whole of this saving will, of course, be so much additional profit. Moreover, ^vhen this reduction of cost is brought about, many placers which now barely pay their A\^ay will be brought into j^i'ofi^able working, and others which cannot be worked now except at a loss, will be able to resume operations, and add to the general output. There are, it is estimated, upwards of 200 placers now in actual work, the returns from which vary from a few oz. to 1000 oz. gold per month, or an average of about 50 oz. each ; the aggre- gate capital invested in these workings does not, it is stated, amount to more than the value of a year's production. Amongst these many ventures there are, of course, many failures and many losses, owing, in some cases, to the prospector being mistaken as to the richness of the location, but far oftener to dishonesty and idleness. It is no uncommon occurrence for prospecting or working parties, fully equipped and pro- RRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 49 visioned for three or four months, never to get further on their way to the diggings than the first falls on the river they have to ascend, and if there is no store or shop where alcohol of some kind or other is to be had (and this, of course, is well known before starting, and a stock has been previously laid in) they move to the nearest resting-place, and remain idly there till the store of liquor and provisions is exhausted. They then either return to town with a dismal story of "no gold to be found" or they ha ^'e been " down with fever " ; or, if they think there is a chance of getting further supplies and playing the same game over again, a few small nuggets or some fine gold (which has been either borrowed or stolen) are produced as convincing proof that gold is there, and that further prospecting is all that is re- quired to ensure a certain fortune. It need scarcely be said that, when such appeals are successful, the second expedition is as dis- astrous as the first. The great problem of the day, the labour question, is pushing its way to the front in this colony, though in a somewhat different phase from that presented in England and 50 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES other countries. It is estimated that there are now engaged in the " diggings " between 6000 and 7000 negroes, many of whom have no doubt been taken from the sugar planta- tions, where they formerly worked for a few months in the year in cane cutting, for which work, from their finer physique, they are more fitted than coolies, who, on the other hand, are better suited for the lighter and more intelligent labour in the sugar factories. This source of supply is now, however, almost exhausted, nearly every available black labourer having been already allured to the gold-fields by the attractions of the higher wages, freer life, and intei'mediate holidays, which they hold out, and which cannot be resisted. A fresh source of supply will, therefore, have to be found, if the sugar in- dustry is to be maintained, and the gold industrj- to progress. The importation of blacks from the West Indian Islands, where there is a superabundance of such labour, and little work to be had even at low wages, is the first resource, and steps are already being taken, with the sanction and support of Government, in this direction. A larger importation of coolies from the East Indies is BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES ji also in contemplation, not only to replace the abstraction from the plantations, but to meet the demand for coolie labour on the gold- fields, which will undoubtedly spring up as soon as mining and crushing operations are generally introduced, and more skilled labour is needed. The mine- owners are aided greatly in dealing with their labourers, through an institution recently formed, as well for engaging labour, as for punishing those who, after engaging themselves and receiving advances, either refuse to com- mence work or run away. Owing to the peculiar physical features of this colony, prospecting for gold, or, indeed, travelling at all, is slow and difficult, and attended with unusual risks and hardships. The country is intersected in all directions by large rivers, creeks, and swamps, and, from the coast to the higher lands in the interior, it is clothed with forest trees and a dense undergrowth. There are no roads that can be traversed by mules or carts, except those along the sea-coast through the plantations ; the Indian tracks, or paths, that can be tra- velled on foot are few and far between ; and to make headway through the forest a path 52 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES has to be slowly and laboriously hewn with a hatchet, shaped like a cutlass, and especially adapted for such work. Game, fur or feather, is scarce, and, owing to the thick bush, can only be got by native hunters, who are not alwaj-s to be relied on ; provisions have, therefore, to be carried either by the pro- spectoi-s themselves, or by bearers hired for the purpose. To reach the gold-fields the large rivers are, of course, utilised to the utmost available extent, but, unfortunately, none of the rivers (except the Barima) are navigable for a greater continuous length than forty miles. There are either rapids or falls which no steamer can contend against, or shallow water which no ocean-going ship can get through, and transhipment of pas- sengers and cargo into small steam launches or boats has to be made — a tedious and costly operation, which, when the contemplated railways are completed and steamers are placed on the higher reaches of the rivers, will be rendered less and less frequent ; but, even with the present facilities of access, communication with the gold-fields contrasts most favourably, both as to cheapness and speed, with transport in other gold-producing BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 53 countries; and as labour, fuel, and water (the three great items in the cost of produc- tion) are abundant everywhere, the colony possesses every i-equisite for working its gold-fields more economically and efficiently than in any other country in the world. In a country possessing such attractions for seekers after mineral wealth, it is natural that prospectors should also turn their atten- tion to precious stones ; but nothing has hitherto been discovered sufficient to war- rant any expectations of finding a Golconda or a Kimberley between the Orinoco and the Amazon. Diamonds, rubies, and emer- alds have, it is true, been found, but not in sufficient quantities or size to attract exten- sive explorations. Note. — The gold diatricts of the colony, and the principal gold-fields so far located, will be found indicated on the map accompanying, but the territorial boundaries between British Guiana aud Venezuela being as yet unsettled, the Schora- bnrgk line only has been shown in the limits of the map. It will be seen at a glance how large and important a por- tion of the oolony would practically relapse into " No-man's Land " if the Venezuelan pretensions conld be substantiated. CHAPTER IV Forests — Different Varieties of Trees — Timber Lands and Grants — Cost of Labour— Bye-Pro- ducts — Soil — Climate — Cereals — Vegetables — Fruits — Pastoral Capabilities — Fisheries. In a country possessing such a vast extent of forest and such a variety of magnificent and valuable trees— e.^., greenheart, mora, wallaba, cedar, crab-wood — the trade in timber necessarily constitutes one of the most important industries. Nearly every building in the colony is made of wood, the framework being generally of green- heart or wallaba, as they are the most durable, and are proof against dry-rot moisture and wood-ants, and will last over a century. Greenheart is the most valuable ; it is a dense, heavy wood, of a greenish- yellow colour, very close grained and free from knots, and is in great request for docks, piles, and other hydraulic work ; it grows to 56 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES a great height (often over 200 feet), and a good tree will contain several hundred cubic feet of timber. The Liverpool landing-stage is principally built of it, and large quantities were used on the construction works of the Manchester Ship Canal, and this supply alone gave regular employment during several years to large numbers of people ; but the demand has ceased, and no other great works requiring this class of timber being now in progress, the trade has fallen away, and the exports are reduced to an almost nominal amount. The contract price for this wood was $2 per cubic foot, and, as it could be felled, squared, and put on board at half a dollar, an ample margin of profit was left. " Shingles " — i.e., slabs and staves made from wallaba (which is a dark crimson in colour, and has a gummy secretion which protects it against insects) — are exported annually to the number of five or six millions, mostly to the West Indies. Amongst other varieties are some of the hardest and heaviest, as well as the softest and lightest, of woods, such as ebony, poplar, And lime ; the latter, however, are not of much value. There are also many fancv BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 57 woods, varying in colour from black to pure white, one of the most curious being the " letter wood," which has in the heart of the tree dark markings across the grain resem- bling letters. It is used for inlaying and ornamental purposes, and is made into walk- ing sticks, and fetches a high price ; other sorts are made into furniture, and for light work the " simarabus," which is remarkable for its entire freedom from knots, and can be sawn to any thinness, would be most suitable for veneering. The cedar, too, grows to a great height, with an almost uniform girth, some of the trees measuring 120 feet in height, Avith an average girth of 5 feet for nearly the whole length. The timber trade cannot, however, be said to be flourishing. Iron and steel have taken the place of wood largely in shipbuilding, and for beams, girders, and other purposes for which timber was formerly exclusively used, and at present prices, the trade would, excepting for the demand in the colony itself, be scarcely worth following. The total value of the export trade is under £20,000, but as there are said to be nearly 1500 men (principally " bucks " or native Indians) 58 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES employed in felling, there must be a large local or colonial consumption. Timber did not commence to be an article of export till 1850, some years after the cultivation of coffee was discontinued. All the timber lands belong to Govern- ment, and a " grant " for felling is to be had on very easy terms — viz., the cost of the survey and a royalty of a few cents (varying from 1^ cent to i cent per cubic foot). Nearly all the best timber lands adjoining the navigable rivers, where the trees can be felled and floated easily down to market, have been " gone over," but there are hundreds of thousands of acres in the interior still untouched by the axe, which are vii-giu forests. The heavier logs have to be kept on the surface while floating down the river by light punts, but a good-sized raft can be thus supported, as the actual weight is only the difference between the gravity of the wood and the water. Wood-cutters are paid generally by piece- work from 3 to 5 cents (depending on the hardness of the wood) per cubic foot, cut and squared, and a good workman will fell 50 cubic feet a day, thus earning $2, BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 59 which is considered a high wage in this country. Timber, like sugar, has its " bye-products," cordwood and charcoal ; the former used for fuel in the sugar factories and for domestic purposes, and the latter (made principally by Chinamen, who are great experts) is exported largely to the West Indian Islands. Other forest products, such as gutta-percha and gum — the foniier obtained by tapping the trees and the latter extracted from the hollows and roots — are also exported in con- siderable quantities. Amongst the bye-pro- ducts of the forest may be classed orchids ; they are of infinite varieties, and owing to their being ruthlessly and indiscriminately taken, a licence to collect orchids has been imposed, involving an annual payment of $100 and a royalty of 20 cents for every orchid exported. Oils, too, of various kinds, are made from cocoanuts and palms, and several kinds of fibre and tanning barks are got from the mangrove trees. These re- sources are, at present, ahnost entirely unde- veloped ; but as the country is opened up industries in these and other productions will spring up, capable of almost indefinite 6o BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES expansion, which though individually com- paratively small, yet in the aggregate will form a considerable total. It is difficult to speak with any certainty as to the general resources and capabilities of the colony apart from its special industries of gold, sugar, and timber, but they are neither unimportant nor inconsiderable. There is a great diversity of opinion as to whether the soil generally is suitable for, and would repay, cultivation ; some asserting that the land in the interior is fertile, and will produce plentiful crops of cereals, fruits, and vege- tables, whilst others state that a single crop of cassava or Indian corn exhausts the soil, and that fresh ground has to be cleared and cultivated before another crop can be reaped. Greater knowledge and longer experience will most probably show that there are, in this as in other countries, lands of diflferent qualities, some rich and fertile, others poor and sterile ; but it is impossible to believe that a country covered with profuse vege- tation over its surface, and in places pro- ducing such luxuriant crops, has not a large area capable of profitable cultivation. The climate would no doubt be considered, BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 6i to some extent, a drawback to European colonisation ; but its unhealthiness is greatly exaggerated, and it is not so bad, even on the low-lying lands, as to be an absolute de- terrent ; and in the interior, where the lands are liigher, rising in some places to over 8000 feet, the climate is said to be as healthy as any country can show, and, when these spots are rendered accessible by steamers and light railways, there can be no reason why comfortable homesteads and flourishing settlements should not become general. The country, wherever it has been settled and cultivated, is as bountiful as any on the face of the globe ; two or three crops of rice and Indian corn can be reaped every 3'ear, and almost every tropical produce can be grown to pei'fection ; coffee, cocoa, sago, pines, grapes, oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, cocoanuts, guavas, &c., may be said to be indigenous, and every month of the year has its own harvest. As regards its pastoral capabilities, the interior is almost a terra incognita ; but it is stated that beyond, and intermixed with, the forests are large savannahs or open plains, on 62 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES which cattle and sheep may be grazed, and will breed, all the year round. The fisheries of the colony, too, are also capable of great development ; at present, they are almost entirely neglected, and salt- fish is imported in large quantities, while many really good fish, such as querriman, mullet, and other varieties are plentiful on the coast and in the I'ivers, and could be easily and cheaply caught and brought to market. One large product of fishery (isinglass) could also be largely extended ; no less than 5000 lb. were produced last year, but the industry is not cultivated. CHAPTER V Fauna and Floka — Absence of Big Game^Quadru- PEDs — Bats — Birds — Fishes — Reptiles — Frogs — Insects — Great Variety of Flora — Savannahs — Palms — Orchids. The fauna of British Guiana are distin- guished by no great variety, and there are no large wild animals, such as lions, ele- phants, rhinoceros, hippopotami, or others known in sporting language as "big game"; there is nothing, therefore, sensational to attract the adventurous sportsman into its trackless forests. There are, however, several smaller beasts and many birds, great and small, which are not to be met with in any other part of the world. The former include some of the lesser species of deer (the largest weighing about 150 lb., but carrying no heads worthy of the name, having only two short, thin straight horns), peccaries, tapirs, cavies, 64 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES sloth, ant-eaters, armadillos, and small mon- keys ; and there are some small wild beasts dignified by the name of jaguar, or puma, but they are rarely met with, and though rather exceeding in size a large domestic cat, are not much more dangerous. The forests are, in fact, so dense as to be ap- parently almost devoid of animal life, and the ordinar}^ traveller seldom sees anything except a bush- hog or a wandering deer, which either sees, hears, or scents him before there is a chance of even a snap-shot ; and no sound is heard but the distant bark of the ho-wling monkey, or the monotonous note of the solitary bell-bird. There are no apes, and, if the gorilla — which the quaint old naturalist, Waterton, stuffed and exhibited in his moated Yorkshire home — ever existed, it is now extinct ; but there is no tradition of such an animal amongst the natives ; the smaller monkeys, such as the ringtailed, golden-breasted marmoset, are plentifully distributed throughout the forests generally. Bats are numerous, and at sunset, in both town and country, they fly about continu- ously, and at night are as common as birds in the daytime. In some of the fore-^^ts vam- BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 65 pires are occasionally met with, and the unwary traveller who sleeps with his feet uncovered sometimes wakes in the morning weary and unrefreshed, and almost deluged in blood drawn by these horrid creatures ; and yet Waterton, who invariably slept with one foot out of his hammock with the express object of being bitten, was never once attacked. Rodents and i(,ng%data are fairly well represented ; the water-hog (about as big as a medium-sized pig), the labba, and accourie, of the guinea-pig or cavie family, are much prized by the natives as food, and when hard pressed take to the water, where they are easily captured. Sloths are abundant ; their habitation is on the branches of trees, and, unlike all other animals, they live suspended, with their heads hanging downward, their bent, hook- like paws being specially adapted for this posture, a.nd, having no pads or soles to their feet, they can neither walk nor crawl. The great ant-bear, with its bushy tail, long tongue, and no teeth, is an inoffensive beast, but with its powerful claws can defend itself against the jaguar, if forced to do so ; it lives on ants, tearing down tlie nests with its long- 66 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES claws, and licking up the contents with its huge rough tongue. The largest bird of Demerara is the jabiru, a species of stork, not unlike the Indian adjutant ; there are many other varieties of storks, also herons, pelicans, flamingoes, egrettes, cranes, curlews, sandpipers, coots, and other waders and amphibious birds, which are the most numerously represented classes in the colony. Both owls and birds of prey are fairly numerous, tlie largest of the latter being the voracious and loathsome king of the vultures ; eagles, falcons, hawks, and shrikes assist to maintain the balance of nature. Toucans, hornbills, cotingas, jays, rice-birds, woodpeckers, jacamars, king- fishers and tiger-birds charm by the beauty of their plumage or the singulai'ity of their form. But the many varieties of humming- birds, and especially the karahiniti or ava, are probably of most interest to the natur- alist. The collector possesses exceptional facilities for acquiring perfect specimens of the skins of these lovely birds, in the blow-pipe ov pucuna, and poisoned arrow, used with unerring pre- cision by the natives, who can kill with them BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 67 at almost incredible distances. The shaft of the arrow, about tlie thickness of a knittino-- needle and nine or ten inches in length, is made of the heaviest wood procurable, sharp- ened, and poisoned at the tip, and feathered with wild cotton, bound to the other ex- tremity, ^vhich is first rubbed with wax in the form of an elliptical ball, slightly thicker than the tube through which it is propelled. Game birds are not numerous, nor are there many species to classify. The most imj^or- tant are gallinaceous, under which category are the maroudi, or small Avild turkey, called by Spix the jacatinga ; the maam, or tina- mou, a bird somewhat resembling black arame ; and the families of curassows and guans, one of which, the hannaquoi, is popularly but incorrectly called a pheasant, from its long tail. Like the powise, of the same family, it is extremely delicate eating and is more allied to the turkey than the pheasant. Jungle fowl and pintados are not found either in the forests or savannahs. Other game birds are partridges, quail, wood- cocks, snipes (both seldom met with), plovers, and many varieties of ducks (including mus- covy, mallard, teal, widgeon), and geese. 68 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES The beautiful crested cock of the rock, a shy and solitary bird, the largest of the four species of manakins, is described by Buffon and alluded to by Waterton, in whose work, perfected to the present time by the Rev. J. G. Wood, is to be found a comprehensive account of all the fauna and flora of the countr}^. The pensive cry of the houtou, a bird erroneously supposed by Waterton to trim off" the ends of its tail feathers, leaving the two central ones only, echoes through the glades, which are enlivened by hardly any songsters, in our sense of the tei'm, but by the cries of the campanero or bell-bird, of the goatsuckers, mocking-birds, and of thousands of parrots, parroquets, and macaws. The bell-bird, whose note much resembles the sound of a dome-shaped spring table-bell, possesses a long white tube growing out of the top of its head, ordinarily pendulous, but erected when the bird utters its call. Geese and wild ducks of every variety are abundant on the low-lying lands and on the smaller rivers and creeks. They afford fair sport, and many of them are excellent eating. Of river fish there are many varieties, but there has been a paucit}^ of ichthyologists to BRITISH GUlAiStA AND ITS RESOURCES 6g describe and classify them. Nothing analo- gous to the salmon genus exists in the lower reaches of these tropical rivers, nor do any fish ascend them from the sea. The perai, described by Mr. C B. Brown, is a most voracious carnivorous fish, but the two most important kinds, both for size and value as food, are very similar in their habits, and are said to be vegetarian, browsing on aquatic plants, though it may be doubted whether these grasses form their entire food. By Mr. 0. B. Brown they are named cartabac and pacu, and, like the peccaries and other hogs, are shot by the natives with arrows. The arrow employed to shoot fish is pro- pelled from a bow, and is frequently six feet long. The shaft is a reed, inserted into a loose barbed head, which becomes detached after the fish is struck, and remains fastened to a cord, exactly after the manner of a harpoon. Snakes and other reptiles are to be found everywhere, and in no other country do they grow to greater perfection. Principal among the venomous snakes are the rattle- snake, the labarri, and the couanacouchi, or bush-master, which attains the length of 70 British guiana and its resources fourteen feet. Among those without poison- ous fangs are the huge python or camoudi, said by the Spaniards to reach the length of seventy or eighty feet (figures which may be divided by three), the boa constrictor, and the small and pretty whip and coral snakes. Crocodiles are to be found in almost every river and small creek, but they do not seem to attain any very great size ; the average being from eight to ten feet in length. They are easily shot, but afford no sport, and their principal weapon of defence is their tail, with which they can strike a severe blow. The iguana — excellent eating, as are also its eggs — and the cayman, which reaches eight or ten feet in length, the chameleon, and many other smaller species, represent the lizard tribe ; the armadillo and the land tortoise are often met with, and batrachians, both toads and frogs, are numerous and noisy. The country is rich in butterflies and moths, also in coleoptera ; the rhinoceros beetle, six inches in length, being the largest of this genus. The flora of British Guiana, unlike its fauna, are of gigantic size and of infinite BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 71 variety ; the trees are not only grand in height, but wide in girth, and the shrubs are all immense of their kind, having broad leaves and flowers of gorgeous colours ; and so rank is vegetation everywhere that even in the forests the trees overlap each other and interlace their branches, so that it is hard to tell to what tree any particular branch belongs, or where the tree itself begins or ends. Owing to their close proxi- mity, the stems are so slender in proportion to their height that some of them throw out buttresses, which often extend outwards 15 or 20 feet from the base of the trunk ; and, between the walls thus formed, and with the aid of a few palm leaves (measuring from 10 to 12 feet across), as comfortable a lodg- ing as a specially built " logie " can be easily and quickly formed. On all sides, too, are pillars of trees, which, in the dim light caused by the dense upper foliage, with the bush-ropes hanging in fantastic festoons from the topmost branches like links of huge cables or gigantic pythons, look like the aisles of some grand cathedral with stained windows and endless tracery. The rivulets or creeks which flow, or, rather, glide, 72 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES through these glades — for they show no perceptible motion in their tortuous course — cause the dark water to look jet black in the half light ; and here and there magnifi- cent lilies, white and pink, cover the surface of the water, and the sloping banks are carpeted by festoons of pignonia convolvulus and other creepers of every imaginable shape, size, and colour, the whole presenting a scene of unrivalled beauty and magnificence not to be surpassed in any other part of the world. The savannahs, too, are choked with vege- tation, but of a difierent sort; some are covered with an almost impenetrable grass, which, with its saw-like teeth, draws blood at every attempt to pass through it ; and others are clothed in green verdure inter- mixed with ferns, sedges, mosses, ground orchids, and those most curious plants, the burmamias, which convert the place into a very paradise for botanists. Palms, admittedly the princes of the vege- table kingdom, are represented in every variety ; they vary in size from the small kind, not much larger or taller than a walk- ing-stick, to the graceful " manicola," which BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES Ti raises its head amongst the giants of the forest. The " eta " palm, the most striking of all, stands out boldly in the savannahs and the swamps, but the cocoanut and the royal palms (the latter also called the cabbage palm from a much -prized and most delicious edible of that shape growing at the junction of the trunk with the leaves near the top of the tree) are common in all cultivated lands, and foi-m noble avenues to some of the sugar plantations. Orchids — those curious, singular, and most beautiful productions of Nature — deserve special notice ; they are found everywhere in the colony, but in the greatest profusion and variety outside and beyond the culti- vated districts. They grow on the trunks and branches of trees, on the base of palm leaves, in the savannahs, on low marshy ground, and in the mountain regions on the bare rocks. They range in height from an inch to twelve feet, and it is said that there are no less than 250 different species, of which the most Avonderful and interesting is the " coryanthes macrantha," with its cup- like flowers, five inches across, and shaped to 74 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES ensure close fertilisation, and prevent the incursion of crawling insects, so well descril^ed by Darwin. To put a stop to indiscriminate and wholesale destruction of these valuable plants a heavy yearly licence is, as before mentioned, levied on all col- lectors. CHAPTER VI Geological roRMATioN— Physical Featubes — Roraima Mountain — Kaieteur Falls — Noeth-West Terri- tory — Georgetown — Climate — Hotels — Clubs — Public Institutions — Society — Education — Re- creation. The geological formation of the colony is varied ; on the coast and along the river- banks are alluvial flats, composed of various coloured clays and vegetable matter ; be- yond this belt is undulating land of quartz sand, and further inland is rocky ground of metamorphic and volcanic origin, intermixed with granite. Two of the most remarkable physical features in this country — and not to be sur- passed in any other part of the globe — are the Roraima Mountain and the Kaieteur Falls. The falls are situate upon the river Potaro (a tributary of the Essequibo), and the whole volume of the river (which is 4U0 feet wide above the falls at the point 76 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES where it begins to break) descends in one un- broken perpendicular column of water for 741 feet sheer down, and then by a steep sloping cataract for 81 feet rushes into a pool in the river below. At the falls the width of water is contracted into 150 feet in width, and in the river at the foot it widens again to 2000 feet. The cliffs which form the sides of the cataract are covered with trees, parasitic plants, orchids, and ferns from top to bottom, and present a scene of inconceivable beauty and grandeur. The mountain " Roraima " is a vast table- land of sandstone-rock, the massive summit of which is an almost level surface covering 30 square miles and rising to a height of nearly 9000 feet above the sea-level ; this crest stands on a sheer precipice 1500 feet high, in the crevices of which are a few creeping plants and orchids ; after heavy rains it is enlivened by innumerable small cascades, which throw themselves over the summit in every size and of endless variet^'. The North-west Territory, which contains the richest known gold-fields, and where the most extensive operations in alluvial washing and quartz mining are now beino- BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 77 carried on, was in 1885 made into a separate district, under the jurisdiction of a Special Commissioner, who resides at Mora- whanna, the capital and centime. He has under him a Commissary, a Surveyor, and other Government officials. Here, too, are a Custom House, Post-office, Registration Offices, and two Mission Churches — one Anglican, the other Koman Catholic. Georgetown — the capital and seat of Government — is situate on the left bank of the Demerara at its outlet to the sea, and covers an area of several hundred acres. Its wide streets are laid out at right angles to each other, and nearly all the main roads have a canal running down the centre in which the Victoria Regia and other mag- nificent lilies grow luxuriantly. On each side are avenues of trees, of which many are decorated vnth gorgeous flowers, and present a strikingly pleasing appearance, reminding one of the picturesque old towns of Holland. The town is well supplied with water by Government, but gas and electricity are provided by private Companies. The telephone, as also the telegrajDh and post-offices, are in the hands of Government, 78 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES and yield together a considerable revenue. The telegraph charges are moderate, but the cable rates, which are regulated by a pri- vate Company, are almost prohibitive. The telephone is extensively used, nearly every private house, as well as every public office and place of business, both in town and for ten miles outside, are attached ; and it is the most complete system of telephone communi- cation in any country of the size of Demerara. Financially, however, it is not encouraging, the receipts not amounting to more than half the interest on the cost. In electric lig-htinof Georo-etown is far in advance of an}- town of the same size in Eng- land ; all the public institutions, and most private houses, have installations ; it is being experimentally tried for street lighting, and is giving such satisfaction as will no doubt lead to its general adoption. The public buildings, which are handsome and commodious, are built of stone, but the private houses are constructed entirely of native timber, wallaba, mora, or greenheart ; they are generally painted, and to each is attached a large garden. The style of archi- tecture is varied and fantastic, three-storeved BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 79 buildings with towers contrasting with more modest villas having only one stoi-ey ; all, however, of whatever size or style, are built on a basement supported by pillars standing from ten to twelve feet above the ground, and approached by wooden steps. The in- terior arrangements are admirably adapted for the climate, comprising one large room, divided by curtains and screens internally (forming drawing-room, dining-room, and library in one), and surrounded on three sides by a wide verandah, which is protected from the weather by windows and jalousies in alternate sections. Rents are high, rang- ing from $750 to $1250 a year, and the sell- ing value is from five to six years' purchase ; but this, though apparently low, is suffi- ciently high, seeing that the buildings are of wood, and the landlord has to insure, and do all repairs, which are expensive and con- tinuous. The most enthusiastic admirers of the colony — indeed, the Colonials themselves — cannot but admit that the climate is not all that could be desired ; even Creoles, a generic term applied to all born in the colony of white or parti-coloured parents, 8o BRITISH GUIANA AXM! ITS RESOURCES require a change of scene and climate every few years. Those who have time and money at their disposal visit England or the Conti- nent of Europe, and those whose means are more limited visit Barbadoes (a voyage of twenty hours by sea) ; the climate there is not in realit}'^ much better than at Deme- rara, yet it is a change, and as such is beneficial. There is no health resort in the colony itself, but within half a day by steamer up the Essequibo or Demerara rivers there are magnificent sites for an hotel or sanatoi'ium, on high ground, with as grand views of wood and water as are to be seen an}- where in the world ; probably the finest site of all, as Vi'ell as the most healthy for such an establish- ment, would be at the junction of the Mazza- runi and Cuyuni with the Essequibo (distant about five hours by steamer from George- town) ; this locality is now used as the penal settlement of the colony, and the convict establishment would necessaril}^ have to be removed to some other place, but this could be easily accomplished. The climate, however, indifferent as it is, possesses a worse character than it fairly BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 8i deserves. It is, no doubt, both wet and hot ; the yearly rainfall averages about eighty inches, and the thermometer stands generally over 70° in the shade; but this, though depressing, is not deadly, and there are no great or sudden changes from heat to cold, or cold to heat, which are the woi-st characteristics of unhealthiness ; and there are few countries which enjoy a more equable climate throughout the year ; indeed, with moderate care, and with a good, or even an average constitution, tolerable health may be secured by new-comers ; and the resi- dents generally are as healthy, and enjoy as long lives as the inhabitants of more tem- perate zones. The most prevailing disease is malarious fever, which generally flies to the weakest organ. " Yellow Jack " (a fatal epidemic, which formerly visited the colony periodically) seems to have died out ; there has not been a single case for the last fifteen years. The average annual death-rate in the colony is, according to official returns, 38 per 1000, not much higher than in some of our manufacturing towns, but it is nearly double the birth-rate ; and yet, according to F S2 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES the official returns, there has been an increase in the population of nearly 10 per cent, in the last decade. This apparent discrepancy may, it is said, be explained by the fact that the immigra- tion of five thousand coolies a year (of "whom only two thousand, on an average, return to India) provides a yearly surplus, which accounts for the increase ; but it is scarcely a satisfactory solution. Society may be said to be divided into two classes by a hard-and-fast line, separating those who are invited to Government House from those who are not ; but everybody holding any position, or with any pretensions to being a gentleman, can, if he chooses, be classed in the first division. The frequency of these invitations is variable, depending on the hospitality and tastes of the Governor and his wife for the time being. Dinners, balls, or large evening parties of any kind are not common — indeed, few residents are given to these extravagances ; yet they are far from being inhospitable, and there are frequent reunions where music and cards are generally introduced. Whist is occasionally played, but poker and loo are the favourite BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 83 games, the spirit of gambling being equally- strong in both sexes. There is no theatre or music-hall, but dances and musical entertain- ments — amateur and professional — are occa- sionally given, and are well attended. There are two clubs, one patronised by the higher officials, professional men, and merchants, and the other by clerks in the public offices and the leading shopkeepers. Strangers are admitted to both as honorary members for a limited — a very limited — period ; but as billiards, cards, writing, reading, smoking, and drinking are all carried on in one large room, they are not very comfortable quarters ; but, as the principal papers and periodicals, with the latest cables and telegraphic mes- sages, are taken, and business matters and social incidents are freely discussed, they are well attended. The favourite drink at the clubs and elsewhere is a " swizzle," and is a compound of rum, whisky, or brandy, mixed with soda-water, ice, and a dash of bitters, and cunningly frothed into effer- vescence by the quick turning between the palms of the hands of a wooden instru- ment called a " swizzle-stick." It is a most seductive and refreshing beverage at any 84 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES hour of the day, and is invariably ta,ken as a tonic before lunch or dinner, and admirably in this climate does it answer its purpose. The onl\^ danger attending its use arises from an overdose, and the advice given to the author by an old and well-seasoned hahitiie of the club — viz., " that he should never take more than five ' swizzles ' before breakfast," may be followed with advantage ; indeed, it could not for any lengtliened period be disregarded with impunit3^ Of hotels there are none worthy of the name ; but there are comfortable boarding-houses, where a good table and a fairly good bedroom may be secured at the very moderate charge of $40 per month. The hospitals are well managed, and form important features in the public institutions ; the doctors are appointed by Government, and the poorer patients are admitted and treated free. There are other institutions — agricultural, mining, and forests — mainly carried on by private subscription, but aided by Government. Religious establishments are well supported financially hj a grant of £20,000 a year, one-half of which is given to the Protestant Church of England, and the BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 85 other half divided amonofst the Roman Catholics, Presbyterians, Methodists, and other sects. The system of education is denominational, and it seems to be answer- ing well ; there are altogether 181 schools, and the scholars on the register are nearly 26,000, out of whom over 20,000 " attended inspection," most of them passing in the Third Standard ; the average grant in aid is about £l 3s. per head. The Museum and Botanical Gardens (the most popular of all the public institutions) are kept up wholh'- at Government expense ; the former contains many and various interesting specimens of the fauna and flora of the colonv. The Botanical Gardens are of large extent, cover- ing 200 acres, about half of which is laid out as flower gardens. There are walks and drives several miles in length, and they form a favourite promenade for both carriages and pedestrians ; but the most fashionable resort is the sea-wall, a wide asplialted walk about half a mile in length, stretching along the sea-shore in front of the barracks. Here every afternoon may be seen all the elite of Georgetown promenading and enjoying the refreshing trade winds and social gossip, St. BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES while the carnages which brought them — some well-horsed and well-appointed — are drawn up in waiting at the foot of the em- bankment, to take back their owners in time for dinner at the usual hour, 7.30. No one in Demerara ever walks if he can ride or drive ; and the lassitude induced by a tropical climate renders the gentler exercise on wheels by far the more popular. CHAPTER VII Political Uoxstitution — Re\t:nue and Expexditure — Telegraphs and Telephones — Internal Com- MUNicATioN — Railways — Waterways — Commdnica- TiON WITH Other Countries — Inducements to Travellers. The political Constitution of the colony is exceptional and somewhat complicated, hav- ing been gradually brought into its present shape by modifications from time to time introduced by successive Governments. It was remodelled again three years ago, and the executive is now vested in the Governor, aided by an " Executive Council " of seven members, of whom four are high ojQ&cials (the Attorney-General, the Government Secretary, the Auditor-General, and Immigration Agent); the other three are selected, practically by the Governor, from the most intelligent and influential inhabitants. This newly created body holds its meetings in camera, and is looked upon with some suspicion by officials 88 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES as well as by others not " within the pale." The legislative power is vested in sixteen members, half of whom are Government officials, and the other half elected, called the " Court of Policy." It includes the Governor (who presides), the Government Secretary, the Attorney-General, the Immi- gration Agent, the Auditor - General, the Receiver - General, the Chief Controller of Customs, and the Surgeon- General or Colo- nial Engineer, who constitute the " official members." The non-official members are elected by the various town and country constituencies ; the counties of Essequibo, Demerara, and Berbice return fiA^e members, and the towns of Georgetown and New Amsterdam the remaining three. This court has no financial power ; it can only legislate. Supplies are voted and expendi- ture settled by another body called the " Combined Court," which is composed of the members of the Court of Policy, and six other members called " Financial Re- presentatives," of whom Demerara and Berbice return one each, Essequibo two, and the towns of Georgetown and New Amsterdam the other two. There is a BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 8g property qualification for members, which may be either in land, houses, or personal. The Combined Court and Court of Policy meet when summoned by the Governor, and not necessarily in either case more than once a year ; but the former is usually called together every six months, and the latter every month. The sittings last gener- ally three or four days, and in all divisions the Governor has the casting as well as a first vote. In the Court of Policy the carrying of a Government measure is a foregone conclusion, but in the Combined Court the independent members, when they do combine — as they occasionally do — have a majority ; like our House of Commons, it has theoretically the sole control over taxation and expenditure. The Government Departments generally in the colony seem to be working well ; at least, they are giving general satisfaction, which is the best test of effectiveness. There are, of course, grumblers, who think that more expedition might be used in some of the public offices, and that a little less obstinate adherence to red-tapeism might, perhaps, with advantage be indulged in ; 90 BRITISH GUIANA A\D ITS RESOURCES and it is publicly stated by others that if fewer officials and clerks were employed the wheels of Government business might possibly run easier ; but there is nothing to make a public grievance of. In conformity with the terms of the ces- sion to Great Britain in 1814, the Roman- Dutch law I'emains in force in the colony, but subsequent modifications and additions have made it almost identical both in principle and practice with that of Great Britain. The Law of Limited Liability, with the ex- ception of the most recent amendments, and the Sanitary and Local Government and other general Acts have been adopted in their entii'ety. There is a right of appeal, in all cases, to her Majesty in council. The criminal code, except that grand juries do not exist, is also the same as in England, and all prosecutions are made at the instance of the Attorney-General. No British troops are now quartered in the colony, although there is ample barrack ac- commodation. A battalion of the West India Regiment, whose depot is at Jamaica, is the nearest available force. A small Ijodv of militia exists, but order is kej)t by the BRITISH GUIAXA AND ITS RESOURCES 91 local police, maintained at the expense of the colon}-. This efficient force musters 800 men, and is officered by whites ; and in addition there is a rural constabulary nearly 1000 strong. The seaboard contains no harbour in which a fleet can ride with safety, and for assistance by sea the colony is de- pendent upon Jamaica or Bermuda. A sloop is, however, employed on the Pre- ventive Service. The public revenue of the colon}'- is about £600,000 a year, and considerably exceeds its expenditure. Its total public indebted- ness is under £90,000, and the exports exceed the imports by nearly £250,000 ; English commerce constitutes more than two-thirds of the latter and nearly one-third of the former. Internal communication in the colony, ex- cept by steamers, is limited and defective ; but wherever the rivers are navigable there are steamships and sailing vessels, some of which are largely subsidised by Government. There is a daily service up the Essequibo ; every other day up the Demerara, and along the coast to Berbice, and twice a week to the Barima in the North-west district ; all the 92 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES steamers ply to the full extent of the navigable limits on each river, and when the first falls or shallow waters are reached, transhipment into steam-launches or tented boats (propelled by paddles or oars), some of the larger of which carry from fifteen to twenty men besides cargo, provisions, and tools, has to take place. The navigation of the rapids, which on some of the larger rivers occur at intervals of a few miles, causes great cost and delay, and is always attended with danger. Scarcely a month elapses without the record of a boat being swamped, and most of its crew drowned, and the cargo lost. Inland travelling has to be done on foot ; there are no roads or tracks where even a mule (the most sure-footed of all beasts of burden) could make its way, except along the sea-coast, where there are macadamised carriage roads for short distances. There is only one railway ; it was constructed in 1840, and is amongst the earliest of Colonial railways. It runs from the capital, through the sugar plantations, along the east coast to the river Mahaica for about twenty miles ; it pays a good dividend, and the shares BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 93 stand Avell in the market. Neo'otiations have for some time been in progress for an extension to Berbice, 45 miles farther, so as to connect the two towns of the colony, Georgetown and New Amsterdam, and to accommodate the intermediate plantations and farms. Another proposed extension is a short line of six miles along the west coast, to serve the plantations and villages in that direction ; and other lines of light railways and steam tramways for opening up the country — specially for the gold industry — are also in contemplation. They are designed to connect the large rivers on their upper reaches ; and this connection is to be sup- plemented by placing small, light-draught, stern-wheel steamers — similar to those intro- duced on the Zambesi — and by portages to be worked by water power from the adjoining falls. By these means, at a comparatively moderate outlay, immediate and substantial encouragement will be given to the develop- ment of the gold and other industies, and the opening up of the country generally for colonisation and settlement. Communication with other countries — especially with England — is by no means 94 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES all that could be desired. The Royal Mail Steamship Company has a fortnightly ser- vice ; the larger steamers, after dropping the mails and passengers for this colony at Barbadoes, proceed to Jamaica and Colon ; and from Barbadoes smaller steamers (called Intercolonial) take the passengers and mails on to Demerara. The voyage occupies alto- gether a fortnight ; but it might easily be shortened by a couple of days, even with the present fleet, and, if larger and swifter vessels were used, the length of voyage could be reduced to about two-thirds of its present duration, but of this there seems little prospect at present, as the contract with the Company has just been renewed for five years on the old terms. In some respects, and in minor details, the service might, however, be improved. There is no bath-room for any but first-class passengers, and there is no library on board — not a book or periodical (except books of hotel and other advertisements, which are supplied gratis to all Companies) ; and a sheet of writing-paper or an envelope is not to be had for love or money. The smoking-rooms, which also do duty as card-rooms, are small, comfortless BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 95 cabins, and, what with smoke and chatter, it is almost impossible to see the cards, much less to play them. The food is, no doubt, ample, and with many varieties of dishes ; but it is the same variety every day, and, with a little care and forethought, this sameness might be easily remedied. All the meals — five in number every day — are crammed into nine hours, between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m., and then comes an interval of fifteen hours of complete abstinence, unless something be specially ordered ; and then it is not always obtain- able without trouble and grumbling. The whisky and brandy are good and fairly cheap ; but the wines are not only dear, but poor, and it would be to the advantage of both passengers and Company if decent wines were to be had at moderate prices. The service, too, is deficient in steam tenders ; at Barbadoes, and other ports of stoppage, passengers have to trust to small boats, and even at Demerara the landing is dependent on a tender supplied by a private fii-m. for which a charge of Is. per head is made. This charge is not, perhaps, excessive in it- self, but, as passengers booked to George- town have an undoubted right to be landed 96 BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES there, and not left in the middle of the river, to get ashore as best they may, the extra charge can scarcely be justified. Under existing circumstances, however — seeing that the Company has a practical monopoly of passenger traffic, and that the passengers are comparatively few — it is gene- rally admitted that the service, although defective, is in most respects as good as could be fairly exjaected. It is to be regretted that upon the recent renewal of the contract the small additional subsidy asked for was not given, as it would have secured a higher speed, and man}- other improvements, which must now stand over for a period of five years, unless in the meantime the Influx of traffic derivable — when the colony is better known, and gold and other industries are being developed — should warrant increased expenditure on passenger comforts, or indeed necessitate it, in view of probable com- petition. Progress of this nature will bring about desired improvements more surely and effectually than any increased subsidies or other artificial appliances. At present there is almost an entire absence of pleasure traffic, and few travellers frequent this route unless BRITISH GUIANA AND ITS RESOURCES 97 business compels ; and yet there is much to attract tourists as visitors to the country, and a visit could not fail to be attractive to large numbers of travellers of different tastes and inclinations. To the lovers of scenery, the grand mountains, magnificent water- falls, noble rivers, and illimitable forests afford endless variety ; for the adventurous, there are unknown regions to explore ; for the naturalist, there are beasts, birds, fishes, and insects not indigenous to any other country ; for the botanist, there is probably a wider field for observation and collection than is to be found elsewhere in the world ; for the sportsman, though there are no savage beasts or big game to be met with, yet there is ample field for sport in the great variety of the smaller animals ; for the ethnologist, the manners and customs of the native Indians, emancipated negroes, coolies, and the various crosses afibrd infinite scope for study ; and for the capitalist and man of business, besides alluvial gold, auriferous reefs, precious stones, and other minerals, there are agricultural, pastoral, and other industries, which, if pro- perly developed, could not fail to yield most remunerative returns. G APPENDIX VENEZUELAN FRONTIER The question of frontier between British Guiana and Venezuela, which has not hitherto been looked upon in a very serious aspect, or as within the range of practical politics, is now (since the preceding chapters were written) assuming a somewhat acute phase. This change has been brought about by a most unwarrantable act on the part of some Venezuelan soldiers, who, in the early part of the present year, crossed the long recognised boundary line between the two countries at the junction of the Uruan with the Ouyuni, deliberately tore down the British flag, hoisted the Republican ensign in its place, laid violent hands on the small force of police stationed there, and marched them into Venezuela, maltreating them on the way. For this unprovoked outrage Venezuela has been called upon to make reparation and apology, but so far she has made neither ; and a communication in the nature of an ultimatum has been despatched by the English Government through the German Con- sulate, who have acted as their representative since the rupture of diplomatic relations with Venezuela loo APPENDIX some years ago. The precise terms of the despatch have not yet been made public, but it is understood that they are peremptory in tone, and if not coni- pHed with, the demand will be followed and enforced by taking possession of one of their Custom-houses, a. practical remedy recently applied in the case of a neighbouring republic, which assumed the same defiant attitude, and could only be brought to terms by a resort to the only means which appeal to half- civilised communities. This episode, though not directly bearing on the boundary question, for whatever the eventual issue as to that may be ample reparation and apology Diust first be made, will no doubt tend to expedite a settlement of the long-vexed line of frontier. The -circumstances that led to the present imbroglio date back to the cession of British Guiana to this country in 1814. It will not be possible in this pamphlet, even if it were desirable, to give a detailed account of the various occurrences that have culminated in this act of open hostility, but a short rSsume will convey a general comprehension of the position, and will not be uninteresting at the present somewhat critical juncture. It is contended on the part of Venezuela that the terms of the Dutch cession did not extend beyond the right bank of the Essequibo ; whereas England claims that it included the whole of the watershed of that river and of its tributaries, and thence to the left bank of the Amacura where it empties itself into the Orinoco; and England has' continuously and uninter- APPEXDIX loi ruptedly exercised jurisdiction and rights of owner- ship over this territory, without any interference on the part of Venezuela, and for many years the greater portion of it has been administered as a separate province (North-west) under a special Commission. It is within this area Ihat the most valuable gold- fields have been discovered and are being extensively worked, and to this circumstance no doubt is due the a-ctive revival of a claim which, for the last eighty years, has cropped up feebly and intermittingly, and has always been met on the part of this country with a firm and decided negative. The question is by no means free from difficulties .and complications, and is not such a simple matter as at first sight appears. The valuable map by General Codazzi, published in Paris in 1876, under Venezuelan auspices, shows a line of frontier in accordance with the views of that Republic, and the only territory north-west of the Essequibo admitted as in British occupation, is a tract stretching north- wards past the Pomeroon river, and described as " usurpado por los Inglescs." The same map includes in the area of Venezuela a large territory watered by affluents of the Amazon, possessed by Brazil and Ecuador, and a wide area of debatable land on the . confijies of Colombia.* The accomplished carto- * Another map pos3e.<;sing considerable interest at the present time, taken from a survey mide for the Spanish Gorernment ' about a hundred and twenty years ago, is known to exist, but the only copy believed to be extant is deposited at Santa Fe de Bogota. 102 APPENDIX grapher may probably be relied upon for accuracy as to the geographical and physical features of the countries shown on his map ; but the political areas there defined are merely the outcome of the preten- sions formulated by his employers, and are in direct variance with the lines laid down in the elaborate plan of the district made by Sir Richard Schom- burgk in 1840, and agreed to by Venezuela as a mod/us Vivendi ten years later, in 1850, when an understanding was come to between the two Govern- ments that, until the exact line of tlie frontier was settled, neither would encroach on the disputed area. On the part of Venezuela, however, this condition has not been observed, and repeated incursions, but none of serious moment, have been made. A few years ago the colony was startled by a rumour that an " invading army " was on its way from the Venezuelan frontier. This force, which proved to consist of a General, decorated with a sword and cocked hat, in command of a few half-caste soldiers in tattered garments and armed with rusty old blunderbusses, marched down the river Mazza- runi to its junction with the Essequibo. The country traversed was a trackless forest, and when the " army " approached the confines of civilization they were in a miserable state of rags and hunger. Here they were confronted by a patrolling police, man, taken before the resident magistrate and fined $5 each for " carrying arms without a licence " ; and, not being able to pay, were " in default " incar- cerated in the boat-house of that official (ther6 being APPENDIX 103 no prison in tlie district) pending the orders of the Governor as to their disposal. His Excelleucy, on being communicated with, at once directed the " army " to be sent to Georgetown forthwith ; and accordingly the General with his imprisoned soldiers were forwarded there. On arrival, they were well fed and decently clothed, and, with a warning not to repeat the escapade, were sent back to Venezuela by the first available steamer, no one any the worse for the " invasion." It is not surprising that, after this exhibition, " hostile invasions " from the north-west and along the same route do not inspire much alarm in Demerara ; but it is not from that quarter that any serious disturbance need be apprehended, the track- less and almost impenetrable forests for a distance of nearly 300 miles being of themselves a sufficient pro- tection. The most vulnerable point of attack would no doubt be by the Amacura, which adjoins the Barima district on the north-west, and from there a few days' march would land the invaders in the midst of rich gold-fields, where a large population is now engaged in working reefs and placers and in alluvial washing ; the invaders would no doubt meet with a warm reception from the miners, who are always ready to fight and defend themselves, but much valuable property might be sacrificed, and many lives lost, a catastrophe which should of course, if possible, be averted. The exact line diplomacy ^will take may be left wilh absolute confidence in the hands of the present 104 APPENDIX Government, who are no more likely to let the British flag be insulted with impunity, than they are to submit to arbitration the cession of a large slice of territory comprising — if the Venezuelan pretensions could be upheld — not less than four-fifths of the total area of the colony, and embracing many old- estabUshed sugar plantations, extensive and valuable forests, and almost the whole of the known gold- fields — possessions which have been for years enjoyed without let or hindrance. Such a title to such a ter- ritory could not be submitted to the arbitration of any Power, however impartial and influential, though this mode of settlement may possibly be adopted in the case of the large area of debatable land lying outside the definite lines laid down in 1850, but even this could not be eutertained until reparation had been made by the Venezuelan Government for the recent outrage, and some satisfactory basis for arbitration had been agreed upon.