mammmmmim ~ Ml/ (^% r-^. Ifflghf^AHil^T/' ,CLA.^»<'E^ CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE WASON CHINESE COLLECTION Cornell University Library DS 721.C61 The land of the pigtail :its peoole and 3 1924 023 560 539 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. A Cornell University 9 Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023560539 THE Mm OF THE flGTAIL, Jis '^toi^k nvcii Customs, FROM A BOY'S POINT OF VIEW. BENJAMIN CLARKE, BDITOB OF "KIND WORDS," AUTHOB OP "POUWCEFORD HALL," ETC. ETC. '§on'iian : SUNDAY SCHOOL UNION, 66, OLD BAILET. LOlfDOlf : FBini'i:s Br j, akb w. bidsb, BABTHOLOUEW CLOSB. CHAPTER I. Charley makes his Bo-w • . . . . 1 CHAPTER II. Hairdressdtg . . . . . 16 CHAPTER III. Match-making . .32 CHAPTER IV. An Empebob's Wedding 46 CHAPTER V. CoNCEBNiNa Eating .... . . 60 CHAPTER VI. CONOEBNING DeINKINO 76 viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER Vir. The Cup that Cheers, and the Drug thit Debases . 93 ( CHAPTER VIII. Natural Productions 112 CHAPTER IX. Education . . 123 "CHAPTER X. Amusements . . . . ... 144 CHAPTER XI. Treatment op Parents and Criminals . . . 163 CHAPTER XII. Sundry Occupations 185 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. Chapter^ i. charley makes his bow. OW do you do, old fellow ? Got back safe and sound, eh ? I'm so glad to see you ! " - " Yes, thanks ; safe enough, thank God ! andas for sound, have knocked about a bit ; rigging somewhat worn, stores exhausted, and cargo all disposed of. Glad to come home again to re-fit, I -can tell you ! " This was Charley Cromwell's brief description of himself and his circumstances, on his return from a voyage to China. His friend was Stephen Willis, a former schoolfellow, B 2 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. and now a clerk in a merchant's office in the native town of both the lads. Charley's career had been one of much interest to the Brillmouth boys, for he was the first from his school, of the present generation, who had gone to sea ; and, moreover, he was a favourite with most of the pupils of Mr. Tozer's " Select Academy for- Young Gentlemen." It had been known for some time past that Charley was expected home, and a daily application at Mr. Cromwell's was at length rewarded with the intelligence that he would arrive in a day or two. Great expectations were raised concerning his return, for though none of the boys expected -presents, they all hoped he would bring home with him some curiosities which they might inspect, and they were quite sure he would have some fine long yarns to tell, to which they might aU listen. The fact was that Charley had always been noted for his story-telliag, and latterly he had. secured Mr. Tozer's approbation for the manner in which he wrote his themes. Scraps from some, of his letters had been repeated to the boys, but he had always apologized for his short epistles, on, the ground that he was keeping a log, which would more fully describe all he had seen. Steve Willis was the first to see him : Charley was standing at his father's, door, looking out for the man who was bringing up some of his baggage. CHARLEY MAKES HIS BOW. 3 He inq[mred after Mr. Tozer and all his old school- fellows, and was well pleased to hear that his arrival was a subject of so much interest. " They're dying to see you, some of 'em," said Steve ; "when will it be convenient for your Celestial Majesty to hold a levee ? It's holiday-time now, I , dare say you may remember ; so name the time; and then 'twill save a deal of bother teUing us your yarns altogether, and not having to go over the ground ever so many times." "All right, I am agreeable. Not a bad idea! I might enlighten the inhabitants of Brillmouth'on the subject of this vast eastern land. Wha't do you say, now ? ' Chats about China,' — no, that won't do. Old Barber will be thinking I'm going in for pottery. ' Facts from the Flowery Land,' — ^no, that's a little too flowery ; and, besides, facts are always dry, or, at least, people who deal most in facts are. I have it — ' The Land of the Pigtail,' everybody will know what that means, and it won't commit me to too much. They won't expect a history of the empire from the remotest ages ; or an inquiry- into the earliest forms of' civilization; or a treatise on the Chinese language, with especial reference to its bearing on Telagu ; in fact, they won't be led away by a high-sounding title into expecting anything clever, or original, or smart. Couldn't charge 'em anything, I suppose, not if Jtwas stated that the profits would go 4 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. towards bringing over a live Chinee to stand in Eobson's shop, or at the door on market days to give put bills. No, of course, that won't do, for Eobson would get the ipuU, and they would say, let him pay for John Chinaraan himself. I'm afraid the public would not respond heartily enough, else I should be very happy to found a Chinese scholarship at our school. Ah ! now that would be a poser, for Mr. Tozer to conduct the exan^ination. Welljthen-, on the whole I think I'll do the magnanimous, and throw my meetings open to the town and neigh- bouAood generally, and to Tozer's boys past and present particularly." The result of this long rigmarole was, that Charley gave Steve carte-blanche to ask any of the boys to spend the following evening at his father's house, to hear something about the celestial empire. Mr. and Mrs. Cromwell also asked some adult friends, so that there was quite a party assembled to meet Charley, and to listen to what he had to say. The friends were supposed to have had tea, but as they assembled they were handed a cup of hot tea without milk or sugar, served in small'cups, as used by the Chinese. This was supposed to be a fit preparation for listening to any remarks on those singular people, for, as Charley said, it, would help them the better to understand their man- ners and customs if they conformM to one of the latter. CHAELEY MAKES HIS BOW. 5 Meanwhile Charley had been getting the back drawing-room ready ; but at present nothing was seen, as a curtain was suspended at the folding- doors, in the- middle of which was fastened a paper with a number of Indian-ink marks, purporting to be Chinese characters, which, on interrogation, Charley declared meant " The temple of exalted wisdom and priceless information, opened for the western larharians, hy Mandarin Char-Li- Krwthr-well" When the curtain was drawn aside the back drawing- room appeared fitted up with the ' curiosities which Charley had brought home, and which need not here be enumerated. On a table near which he stood, and on the walls behind the audience, were rice-paper diagrams by native artists, some of which are reproduced in these- pages. But the object of grea,test curiosity and interest, was a large tea-chest on the table, on which were inscribed in large English capitals,- " TU DOCES." Charley gave the audience plenty of time to surmise what this meant, as he drew from the chest several articles qf Chinese workmanship, and the manuscript from which he was going to read. Various were the remarks paade as to the meaning of the inscription. " You may be sure it's some of Charley's foolery," said one ; " I believe he means that the chest is a sort of medicine bottle on a large scale, and that the direction o 6 THE LAND OP THE PIGTAIL. is to take 'two doses.'" This solution found favour with some ; but others decided it was a Latin motto, and therp were several quite able to translate it into English. Mr. Tozer was appealed to, and most readily gave%is opinion. "There can be no doubt," said he, " that as it stands it means ' Thou teachest ; ' and as I never heard of any one taking liberties with classic literature, or degpading the noble language to any boyish jokes^, I must translate it literally, and then inquire what application it can have on the present occasion." 'Whilst Mr. Tozer was clearing his throat, or rather taking some little time to consider what tp say next, Mr. Cromwell suggested that , Charley had intended a special compliment to his master, whom he expected, as though he would take this way of indicating how much the worthy schoolmaster taught his pupils generally, and him in particular. This , solution was flattering to Mr. Tozer, but it was not considered altogether satis- factory ; whilst Charley's friends who knew him best declared it was far too mild an explanation. But however various were the surmises of the audience, all of them were agreed in their anxiety to know what the mysterious words meant. "I will then explain," said Charley': "this box," pointing to the one that bore the two Latin words, " may be said to represent the land of China to us, as it is from CHAKLEY MAKES HIS BOW. 7 its natural production — tea, that we first tecame acquainted witli it. It may in a sense, therefor^, be said to tmch us a good deal of valuable information. This explanation I offer to the more intellectual and sober- minded portion of my hearers; to the yoimger ones I would merely say that the Latin phrase is to be translated simply, and applied naturally to the article on which it is inscribed, ' tu doces,' — thou tea chest." Cries qf " too bad ! — horrid [ — shameful ! " &c., met this announcement, but they were drowned in the laughter which the boys raised, not only at the joke itself, but also on account of the beautiful way in which their \rery clever master was " caught napping." This little incident was well received by. the boys, for the further reason that it gave them some assurance that the lecture, or whatever Charley chose to call it, would not be very dry. It may be taken also as an assurance to our readers that Charley will try to in- terest them, and will not overload them with facts and figures. This incident helped to put Charley at his ease with his hearers, perhaps it may help the readers to accord a kindly welcome' and a patienfperusal to what'he has to say. Bowing to his audience, Charley thus began: — " My worthy father ! whose liberal ' stumping u"f ' — I beg pardon, I mean, whose liberal supplies— procured 8 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. the outfit, which. I need not enumerate, as I am sure I should make the mouths of some of Mr. Tozer's boys water, who might not be satisfied until they had bothered their parents to, furnish them with the like. My dear mother ! whose loving care and generous thoughtfulness sent me to sea with as complete a rig as ever a youngster took on board ship. " My respected schoolmaster ! whose careful training and judicious caning prepared my mind to receive in- struction, and taught me to keep my eyes open. My old schoolfellows and bosom friends ! though I have not printed your initials there in Indian ink and gun- powder, — I must ask the kind forbearance of all of you whilst I, in rather a rough-and-ready fashion, try and give you some idea of a country and a people about which, p^rhaps, you don't know as much as I do. I am sure it will be quite a pleasing sensation to tell Mr. Tozer anything he does not know ; and as for the boys, I'm sure they're fearfully ignorant about this subject, that is, if Ihey are not wiser than I was before I went to China. " Just look at the geographies : why, they knock off this land and its hundreds of millions of people as if they were not worth knowing anything about. They give you a string of Chinese towns, with some attempt at tileir population ; but not a word to interest you, nor to make you wish to know more. I heard something when CHARLEY MAKES HIS BOW. , 9 I was at school about a great wg,!! of China, and for some time I was under the delusion that it was some gigantic bit of pottery-j I knew the men wore pigtails, and heard once of a man who had his tied so tight he could not wink; I was told the feet of the women turned up more than their noses; and of course I knew that tea came from Chiaa. But there my knowledge elided. " I was fortunate enough to have for a captain a man who was every inch a sailor, and one whose mind was not altogether absorbed in his' professional duties. . He had a famous library in his cabin, to which we all had access, and he was full of information about all the places and peoples we came across. As he saw I was interested in China, he often used to walk up and down the deck with me, and tell me much that he knew. For many things that I may say, I am indebted to him ; and if the boys think sometimes I am coming it rather strong, or talking a little grand, let them remember that I may be speaking somewhat as the captain spoke, and sometimes using as near as possible his words, which I put down in my log, as soon after they were spoken as possible. - "China is the very oldest civUized nation on the face of the earth — older even than Egjrpt. " It is almost incredible to think that, whilst we are reading the books of Moses, there was a people even 10 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. more advanced than the Egyptians in the arts of civi- lized life. •' Then the Chinese are so impassive in character, and so little disposed to change, that they have remained pretty much the same for centuries. If the Chinese nation had been included in any part of the Bible, I dare say we should now find some manners and customs existing as they then did. " They are a wonderful people, too, when we consider that they have been anisolated nation, and have learned but little from other countries. Esteeming every other nation as barbarian, they have never had any desire to profit by the inventions and discoveries of others ; so that whilst they are now far behind many countries, they were far in advance of them once, and that, too, through their own native intelligence and skill. China made for herself paper and gunpowder, when our fore- fathers were half savages. She invented printing long before England ever dreamed of the art ; she made a mariner's compass, and steere'd her ships thereby, with needles pointing to the south, before England — now the mistress of the seias — ever sent one of her sons to sea, or owned a craft more seaworthy than a washing-tub. " The Chinese possessed^ a considerable knowledge of • astronomy, and took their Ski Hi observations when the inhabitants of this island knew nothing about heavenly bodies, and precious little about their own. The Chinese CHAKLEY MAKES HIS BOW. 11 worked skilfully with tools when our ancestors were only able to wield their instruments of war, or the rudest implements of husbandry. The Chinaman was an "artist, and knew the use of brush and colour, when the Celt or the Saxon never dreamed of representing his^ ideas except in rude speech, or ruder actions. " However far ahead we may be at the present day, we must see that the Chinese have some claim to our respect; and even now we, with aU our advancement and with all our advantages and superiority, may yet learn something from the ' Land of the PigtaQ.' " I shaE not ba very happy, perhaps, in drawing the lessons to be learned ; but I am serious when I say there are such lessons to be learned, and that whilst the effect on my own mind of all that I have seen and heard of China is to make me more than ever grateful that I am an Englishman — ah ! well, getting on that way, let me say — I have stiU learned many things which we should all of us be the better for considering. I am afraid John Bull travels with a determination not to see anything "that contrasts- favourably with something els^e at home : like his cousin Jonathan, he tMnksthat every- thing at home ' whips creation.' " It is quite a proverb that most Englishmen take too much baggage with them ; but whatever they , may leave behind,- they generally take a pretty big notion that they won't see anything worth their copying. They 12 tHE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. are ready with their praise sometimes ; oftener with their patronage — ' Eerily very creditable for . those fellows/ — but they seldom see anything really worthy of their imitation, or of their taking to heart. I know quite well that the Chinaman has this feeling, too, in even a larger share : he thinks all travellers barbarians, and from the fact that he remains so unchanged after contact with other nations, shows that he sees but little to imitate in them. But we condemn this feeling in them ; is there not something like it in refusing to take a lesson, or learn a lesson, or dis^cover a truth, wherever we may find one ? " An apple is an apple, and we' schoolboys used to judge of its quality, and care but little where it came from. " A young chawbacon might offer it, or one of our companions not over clean or tidy in his personal arrangements, or it might be by the road-side, or in a ditch; but not one of us would refuse it on that account. A diamond is a diamond, and is valuable as such, however poorly it may be set. If we are offered it we take the jewel, and if we care not for the setting, we discard that, and get the stone re-set. A good thought, a clever idea, an example worth following, a lesson worth^ learning, is valuable, apart from its surroundings. " You will think this rather tall talk for one like me ; CHARLEY MAKES HIS BOW. I'd but for the sake of my dear old conxpanions, and their companions whom I don't know, I do hope they won't grow up with that pig-headed notion that there is nothing worth learning out of England. " I may be awkward in showing what is worth learur ing from the Chinese ; but our mutual friend, Mr. Tozer, wiU, I am sure, draw the lesson for us, and bring in the moral at the right place. I am not much of a hand at that sort of thing, and I do not care for those who are always tagging on a lesson to everything. " Now it is in Mr. Tozer's line to make everything in- structive. I well remember how he made quite little scientific lectu,res out of our kite-flying, or top-spin- - ning ; and 1 hope, he will so far help us that there may be something solid imparted by our thus meeting to- gether. If, when Gus Green or Fred Dangerfield goes home, he is able to tell his parents anything he has learned, they will think, perhaps, it may be worth while to send himuhere again. " I do not intend to interfere with our good master's pupils in their study of geography. They must not suppose because they have heard me, that they need learn nothing more about China in their school books. The fact is, I am going to talk about what you don't find in these useful books ; and when you are more interested in the people you will be more likely to remember what you read about the country. 14 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. "I am not going to say so much about China as about the Chinese. It is more interesting to talk of people than of \places ; you can describe them better, and you can-forin some definite ideas about them. "Then, representations of people are more natural and correct than those of places. I shall hope to intro- duce to you various characters drawn by Chinese artists, which will be faithful in their details, aild which will give you correct impressions of some of the inhabitants of this wonderful land. "As to the extent of the land-r-say roughly it is twelve hundred miles long, and as many broad ; or more than three times the length of England, and six times as broad. Its population is about three hundred and seventy millions, or about one-third of the entire human race, so that they have some claim to our notice. " So much for geographical figures ; now for some of the representative characters. "I don't know what order to introduce them in. Boys are not much given to methodical arrangement, and on board ship is not the place to pick it up. We begin life by cramming all our belongings into our trousers pockets, where school requisites, material for games, treasures, and eatables are well assorted. If we want our slate pencil, we must first draw out yards of kite-string, marbles, buttons, knuckle-bones, goodies, or CHAELEY MAKES HIS BOW. 15 half-consumed apples, before we come to what we want. " So to-night I have no particular order to follow : my reiriarks will be "at random; and, as when making purchases, you must take them as they come. I fear Mr. Tozer will be horrified at the want of what he may call 'logidal sequence;' but I can only plead that I was never logical, and that I never met a Chinaman who was ; still, I'll promise not to make a mumble- jumble of it. I will stick to one thing at a time, and not mix up tea and pigtails, so that you might not know what you were swallowing. " Now as I have called this little effort 'The Land of the Pigtail,' I cannot do better than begin with that interesting article ; especially, too, as we are going to speak about the Chinese, we may as well begin with their heads ; for with that perversity and contradiction which distinguish the celestials, their tails come out of their -heads." ? HAPTER II, AIR fashionably cul;, and brushed by machinery" is a notice you' would never see in China, for the 'simple reason that hair is not, cut at all, but shaven. "The whole head is shaven, with the excep- tion of a small patch on the crown, which is allowed to _grow as long as it will. It is braided into a cue, and the ends are made fast with sHk. " It often happens th^t the natural cue is not long enough to suit the taste of the wearer ; he then has it lengthened by other hair being added, tiU, in some cases, the pigtail alniost touches the ground. I must HAIRDRESSING. 17 Le careful what I say on this matter. I was going to enlarge on the foolish, and, to put it ' mildly, anything but nice idea of wearing other person's hair besides one's own ; but whilst I have been away I find that this barbarous custom has extended to other nations, so that what John Chinaman has been doing for two hundred years our ladies have taken to. " I was particularly struck, soon after my arrival, in noticing a friend-of mine — who, when I left, was getting thin as to the hair, — displaying a huge quantity that that I was certain could never have belonged to her. I made a remark, disposed somewhat to beg pardon for daring to suppose it possible ; but I was soon set at ease by being assured that everybody wore false hair. Said I to myself, wouldn't the Chinese laugh to find the English at last adopting one of their customs ? " I was glad to find, on inquiry, that if our ladies copy the Chinese in this respect, they do not obtain their false hair in the same manner. " There are men called ' Collectors of Eefuse Hair,' who go about buying or begging the combings of the women's hair. The hair of the women is very long and very coarse, something like a pony's tail ; and as the comb goes through the tangled mass a good deal comes away with it. c 18 THE LAND 0¥ THE PIGTAIL. " This is saved until there is sufficient to sell, when the collector buys it, and sells it to the barber, who makes pigtails with it. What do you think of that for an idea, my friends ? " Talk of wearing a little lock of your sweetheart's hair in a trumpery little locket that is kept shut up ; what is that to wearing your sweetheart's hair at the end of your own, and thus making the pigtail an emblem of your heart's true affection, so closely entwined ? " Sweet idea, is it not 1 But unfortunately it won't do in China, as they do not have any such weaknesses as courting and love-making, as we shall see. " The men are not the only ones that wear false hair, for the women fasten on an ornament called the ' butterfly's wing,' which is supposed to be the natural growth of the wearer. " When our ladies stick butterflies on their heads, and wear huge chignons, they may be reminded, as we used to be by Dr. Watts, when disposed to think our clothes smart, that the caterpillar and silkworm were rigged out in gay clothing long before. "WeU, if the custom itself is an undesirable one, there is this, at least, about it, it is a thrifty one ; and that is a lesson we English have to learn pretty extensively, I think. HAIRDKESSING, 19 "I see you are all nodding assent: fathers and mothers are always reproving their children for being wasteful: Mr. Tozer used always to be 'blowing us up' — I beg pardon, I mean gently expostulating with us, on the time and opportunities we lost ; and I know servants are shocking. " Ah ! but a good deal of this comes back on those who have gone before us : there can be no doubt about it, we do not make the most of what we have- JSTow the Chinese turn everything to account; they waste nothing. " In this matter of refuse hair, how different our practice! our ladies, I am told, make up their combings into little hair pills, and burn them ab the candle, or else throw them away. To be sure, there is no collector to come round for them; the old clothes man would not thank you for them ; they would not be much in the way of the hare and rabbit- skin man ; and so the dustman, perhaps, gets them with other rubbish. "The trade of the barber is a very important one, for no one shaves himself, as it would be an operation at once difficult and dangerous. In Canton there are something like seven or eight thousand barbers. Their services are much in request, and it takes but little to set up the stock-in-trade. "A razor costs but twopence, and the strop is 20 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. made of a strip of stout calico. In the south of China the barbers carry their shop with them, and operate in the streets, or in private houses; but in the north they open a little shop, though even there they frequently attend to their customers outside the door. " A Chinese gentleman, say every three days, requires the services of the barber, who softens the hair in water. THE BARBER. and then with the razor, but without any lather, shaves the whole of the top of the head, except the crown, left for the pigtail. "If this be all the operation, a payment of three cash, or about one farthing, satisfies the barber; but frequently the cue requires to be replaited, or ha-s HAIRDEESSING. 21 to be interwoven with fresh silk, and then more cash are expended. Schoolboys are treated once a week to a shave, and to them there is affixed no pigtail, the short hair on their crowns indicating their youth. " When relatives die, the head remains unshaven for a period determined by the closeness of the relationship. Thirteen months' absence from the barber is the period when a parent dies, but long before that time the head presents such a frightful appearance, that other means are resorted to to keep down the stubble. "You will observe, worthy sires, who go to some expense over your shaving creams ; and you younger ones, who make a prodigious use of the shaving-brush, that the heads of the Chinese are cleanly shaved without the use of soap. "It has just struck me whether the story of the she-bear was a Chinese one. You remember that the great she-bear, walking up the street, looked into the window. 'What! no soap,' said the bear, and she died.. It may have been that the idea of her grizzly beard being shaved without soap was too much for her, and she succumbed. " The women, I should say, are their own artists, for they are not shaved. "Now the curious part about the pigtail is, that it is not an original custom at all. It was introduced 22 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. from Tartary by the first emperor of tliat country, who seized the throne in 1644, and who imposed this custom of Manchuria, his native country, as a badge of submission. " The Chinese had been accustomed to wear long hair over the whole head, and to arrange it in a tuft, or coil. At first, of course, the new style was very distasteful, but gradually it became generally adopted, and n9w it is quite gloried in. " The leaders of the rebellion in China make this a.' feature of their opposition, and their followers allow their hair to grow all over the head. They say the pig- tail is a badge of servitude ; and so it is, but it is difficult for those even less indisposed to change than the Chinese to throw^off badges and habits of long standing. " I find that most boys are now given to forming collections of one sort or another. Some go in for stamps, and can tell you what it would cost to send a letter from Patagonia to Kamschatka, and what sort of stamp yoa would have to put on ! Others .collect crests, and can tell you what are the arms of everybody, and when and why your particular family added a pepper- castor to their quarterings. Others again, go slightly mad about seals, and spend all their pocket-money in sealing-wax. But allow me to suggest to you an idea new to English boys, and introduce a new collection which perhaps will not find much favour with them. HAIRDEESSING. 23 " There is a class of persons in China whose business it is to collect scraps of printed paper, either printed or written on : not to sell to be made into paper again ; not as part of a rag-bone and bottle business, where most money is given for left-off horse-hair, biit out of consideration for what is on the paper. " Now, you must know that the Chinese are a most reverent nation. I am hot aware if phrenology is at all studied in China : perhaps not, for their round . shaven heads do not seem to me to be raised up into bumps, or to be depressed into holes. But if their heads are subject to phrenological development — excuse that big phrase, I couldn't help it — I should expect to find the bump of veneration on every Chinaman's head of such a size as to siiggest that he had just had a violent crack from some instrument. "Their veneration extends to literature: they say that that is the grand distinction between animals and men. The former may be taught many things, and so, possess something very like reason; but they cannot commit their thoughts to paper. Even the learned pigs, or other highly educated animals for exhibition, are obliged to resort to some bodily sign to convey the information required of them; they must nod their heads, or scrape with their paws, or wag their tails — they cannot write. " Then, again, the Chinese have a great reverence for 24 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. those who have committed their thoughts to paper. Chinese characters are called ' the eyes of the sage ;' and there is a proverb, ' If one protects or respects the eyes of the sages, it is just the same as protecting his own eyes from becoming blind.' Those who are dis- respectful towards lettered paper are likened unto blind buffaloes, and will probably be born blind when they come into the world next time. The sin of treating lettered paper with contempt is not only punished on those guilty of it, but the punishment extends to their posterity. , " The conduct of the Englishman in this matter quite astonishes the Chinaman, and is the strongest proof given of his barbarism. ' What respect can you have for literature ? ' John Chinaman might say, ' They call you John Bull : I shall call you John blind buffalo. How can you dare to trample on, or wipe up dirt with, or wrap up , parcels with, or light your cigar with, a piece of paper that may have on it the name of your Supreme Being ? ' " " It is a fact, for I know Missionaries assert it, that this habit of ours does more to prejudice us in the minds of the Chinese than any other. And they think that neither our Bible nor any other books of ours can be worth much when our countrymen generally pay so little respect to lettered paper. " In some towns ' Lettered Paper Societies ' exist. HAIRDEESSING. 25 whose duty is to employ men to collect all fragments of lettered paper. In other places the work is under- taken by those in charge of the principal temples. Waste paper baskets are issued to the inhabitants, or stuck about in different parts of the town, in which are deposited all kinds of waste paper, in fact, a sort of literary dust-bin. " The collector goes about from street to street, shout- THE COLLECTOR OP PAPEK SCRAPS. ing, as loud as his impassive nature will allow, ' King sin sze tsze,' which means, not that the man has a bad cold and began to say something, but was prevented by sneezing, but ' Eevere and spare the printed paper.' " In our picture a student has heard the cry, and has come to the door of his house with his basket to hand the contents of it to the collector. 26 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " When the man's basket is full, he will take it to one of the furnaces erected by the Lettered Paper Societies, or to the temple to which he is attached, and will there burn the paper to ashes. " By-and-by, the ashes, which have been carefully kept in earthen vessels, are brought out when a large quantity has been collected, and are carried in proces- sion, attended by the members of the society in their best clothes. The procession is headed by a band, and goes through the town until it comes to the river — where there is one. The ashes are then thrown into the stream, and are floated away into the ocean : but in some cases, so particular are they, that the ashes are placed in a boat and taken some miles to the sea, and there thrown in, for fear that, in any way, these sacred fragments should come into contact with any pollution. " To encourage this reverence, tracts and books are written, promising various kinds of rewards to those who engage in the good work. "Here are one or two of the regulations : " ' He who goes about and collects, washes, and burns, lettered paper has 5,000 merits, adds twelve years to his life, wiU become honoured and wealthy, and his children and grandchildren wiU be virtuous and filial. " ' He who forbids another to wipe anything dirty with lettered paper has fifteen merits, and will become prosperous and intelligent. " ' He who uses letteredpaper to Mndle a fire has ten demerits, and he wiU have itching sores. " ' He who in anger throws down on the ground any lettered paper has five demerits, and he will lose his intelligence.' " HAIKDEESSING. 27 " It is quite distressing to think what would happen to some of you boys if you were subject to these regu- lations. " The number of your demerits would be beyond the power of calculation of the most intelligent Cocker amongst you. You would be raving mad in no time ; you would be covered with the most irritating sores imaginable ; you would be as blind as bats in a week ; your children would be shockingly rude to you, and as for your grandchildren, I shudder to think of the extent to which their unfilial conduct would go. "Ah! it is all very well to laugh at the Chinese in this respect, but I am sure Mr. Tozer will agree with me that we have something to learn from it. " I once heard of a man who stole a gate from a field, by the road-side, and was detected with it in his possession. When accused of the offence, he pleaded that he only took it away for a joke : whereupon the judge, or magistrate, inquired how far the man was found from the field to which the gate belonged. " ' About two miles,' replied the prisoner. "'Ah! just so,' said the judg©: 'you must be punished : that was carrying the joke too far.' " So with this reverence of the Chinese : it may be carrying it too far ; but there is something in it. " I need not, especially as it is holiday-time, and in presence of your master, say anything about dogs'-ears. 28 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. and torn-pages, and wrenched-off covers, and so on : I would rather just drop a liint in whicli we shall agree, as we are none of us implicated in that, as to using good books for wrapping up articles in shops. I must say, if I were an author, I would much rather have my writrags handed over to the collector than that they should ever come to wrap up halfpenny candles, or to inclose sweetstuff. " As to the use of parts of the Scriptures for any such purpose, why, young as I am, I would not deal at any shop where such irreverence and contempt were shown. A man who would thus treat the written word might as readily disregard the message it contained ; and if he cared nothing for Him whose book it was, he might be quite as indifferent to the ' abomination ' which ' a false weight ' is declared by it to be. " Having spoken of the pig-tail, which distinguishes the Chinese at one extremity, let me say a few. words about a custom peculiar to them which concerns the other extremity — I mean the compressed feet of the woman. "To illustrate this part the accompanying picture of THE COBBLER is introduced. But here he is at work on a man's shoe, engaged in a manner somewhat European. "There are various kinds of shoe? worn by men. HAIEDRESSING. 29 The cheapest is the straw sandal, worn by ladies, which merely covers the sole of the foot, and is fastened by a band of straw. The better classes have shoes made of silk, satin, velvet, for the tops and sides, and with several layers of felt for the soles. THE COBBLER. " Except for shoes worn at the rainy season of the year, leather is not worn at all. Children's shoes are made of brown or purple calico, bound with red, with layers of coarse cloth sewn together for the soles. " So far so good ; not much to find fault with here : the men's shoes are cheap and are adapted to the climate. How strange, that it is when we approach 30 THE LAND 01" THE PIGTAIL. articles for ladies wear that we come upon ugliness and absurdity. "The fashion of compressed feet is the one great mark of gentility in China ; and families pride them- selves on the smallness of their women's feet rather than on the greatness of their possessions. " The custom, like other absurd ones nearer home, is lost in obscurity. Some say that an infamous empress named Tak-ki, who was born with club-feet, prevailed upon her husband to make a law that the ladies of the court should make their feet like hers : and we know that whatever is done at courts is only too slavishly, and gladly imitated by others. " But whether the custom originated in this way or not, it is certain that the appearance of a Chinese lady's feet resembles a club-foot, and is considered very beau- tiful : it is called a golden lily, but why or wherefore is more than I can say. " The feet of girls are compressed when about five or six years old. The four smaller toes are fastened down imder the ball of the foot by a strong bandage ; and it requires two or three years before the proper shape is attained. The child walks on the knuckle joints of the toes, until the toes -become part of the foot sole. Then the sole is curved like a bow, the great toe and heel being brought close together, so that the small foot is but a toe and heel. The foot is placed in a short, nar- HAIRDEESSING. 31 row shoe, tapering to a point ; and often a block of wood is inserted at the heel, so that the body seems to stand on tiptoe ; and thus the appearance of greater height is gained. " The heel extends beyond the heel of the shoe, so that a foot four or five inches long will only have a shoe of three or four inches. I am told that the feet of some women will only measure three inches and a half. "Well, what have they got after all this incon- venience and pain ? They cannot walk properly : they cannot carry any weight at all : they are useless and ungainly : hut they are in tlie fashion ! Oh ! that's it : and what is not that worth ? Since I have been away I am sorry to see that our ladies have been playing the fool with their feet; thrusting them into ridiculous boots with high and narrow heels ; and thus throwing their bodies forward, and making a graceful walk and carriage, simply impossible. " Of course, in China those who go to work do not conform to this practice, but allow their feet to grow as nature intended they should ; but these are poor igno- rant creatures, who know no better : it is left for the better educated classes in this country, and in China, to improve on Natvire." Chapter hi. match-makin g. ATCH-MAKDsra, marriage, and matrimony, are subjects of which a young man might well iight shy; but no account of China would be complete without some reference to these things, and I am sure the lady portion of my au- dience deserves to have its feelings considered. Still I should have put off the subject till a later period. I was going to try and throw my remarks into something like proper order, but that celestial youngster — I beg his Majesty's pardon, the Emperor of China — has been and gone and done it, as we say in this country. So many have spoken to me about the Emperor's marriage, MATCH-MAKING. 33 and have asked me so many questions about it, that I must make this special marriage the occasion of a word or two on this subject in general. " I may anticipate any objections on the part of any worthy parents present, that I ought not to fill young people's heads with any silly notions about matrimony, by assuring them that they need not be a bit afraid of their sons and daughters having their mouths made to water by anything I shall say. On the contrary, this institution presents itself to us in such unpleasant aspects, that our first feeling is one of thankfulness that we are not Chinese. "It is the most dismal, matter-of-fact, tame, slow, mild, unromantic affair possible, getting married in China. It is not half such a jolly time as getting breeched, or wearing our first long dress, or having a parcel sent to us at school, or a Christmas party, or a picnic, or having a jolly old uncle come to see one, or lots of other things that may happen to us. " There is no 'falling in love and telling no one of it ; and trying to meet the young lady at all sorts of odd times ; and being invited to a party where she is ; and making little presents, and tender eyes, and gentle pres- sures — of the hand, nothing further, of course ; and getting awfully fond of the young lady's brothers, and trying to make one's self appear to the family in as favourable a light as possible. There is no Valentine's D 34 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. Day, or love-letter writing, or making of presents, or of appointments ; no — ' Meet me in the lane When the clock strikes nine.* There is no bewildering time of engagement, when life is as a summer day ; no ode to the moon, or your lover's eyelashes ; no language-of-flowers business, or pumping up of sentiment generally ; and after marriage there is no long holiday, or honeymoon, no billing and cooing, and turtle-dove life for no end of a time. " As I said before, the whole business is dreary and matter-of-fact ; there is no sentiment, no affection, no bliss. " Think of it, young ladies, and tell me then if you care to hear any more of a people who can be so horrid. Think of it, young men — boys are out of the question, — and tell me if you can be interested in such a mild set of people. " Ah ! but then this young Emperor has got married ; and people are talking about him, and you ' want to know, you know.' ■ " It is not even necessary for young people to know each other before they become engaged, or even to see one another. It may be, that in two families that are acquainted there is a young couple of marriageable age ; but it often happens that the young man and young woman are quite unknown to one another. " In any case they are not allowed to decide, or even to MATCH-MAKING. 35 arrange for themselves. The services of a professional match-maker are always employed. " These are women whose business it is to arrange matches between young people. " These women belong to a class that was degraded some four centuries ago for revolt; the men are not allowed to follow the ordinary trades, but are shut up to being porters, or pedlars, or actors ; and the women pursue the occupation of match-making. " Of course you see the Chinese are thus subject to a tax on matches, and our Chancellor of the Exchequer will be pleased to know that his celebrated motto holds good here, ' Ex luce lucellum,' and that there is profit from a light occupation. " These women find out that in a certain street there is a youth 'old enough to marry, or else the friends of the friends of the young man consult them, and request them to supply a bride for him. They then find out a young woman, to whose parents they take a card from the parents of the young man, bearing on it the ancestral name, with the hour, day, month, and year of birth of the candidates of matrimony. The parents of the girl then consult a fortune-teller, and if his opinion is favourable they return a card with similar particulars concerning the young woman. The parents of the young man then consult a fortune-teller, and if his re-. * As in tke initial letter at tlie head of this chapter. 86 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. port is satisfactory the engagement is accepted. To ratify it a paste-board card is exchanged between them, covered with red paper ; the one for the youth bearing on it a figure of a gilt dragon, whilst that of the maiden has a similar likeness of a phoenix. " Now the betrothal is binding and legal, and may not be broken, except for grave reasons. It is only fair to say that engagements are very seldom broken ; much less frequently than with us; but then, on the other hand, there is not much credit in keeping an engage- ment one has had no part in making, nor in not wishing to break one when it is a matter of perfect indifference to whom one is engaged. ' " When the cards are sent to the girl's family, a present is sent for her of a pair of silver or gold wristlets ; and for her family, various articles of food, as pigs' feet, a pair of fowls, two fish, &c. When they send back to the family to which the boy belongs the engagement card, they send, as a present, some artificial gilt flowers, vermicelli, and bread cakes. " Two large threads of red silk and four needles are also exchanged ; and I have no doubt this is an impor- tant part of the transaction. There is some meaning in it, for the Chinese use symbols for everything — now then. Master Charles, I know what you said — yes, and cymbals, too, when marriages take place ; but don't be in a hurry to get to the wedding- — the Chinese never are. MATCH-MAKING. 37 "There is an old story about tlie red thread, but I won't trouble you or myself either with it ; I dare say it means tying the young people together, or something oi that ■WEDDING SEETIOE. sort. As to the needle, it may serve to suggest that a threaded needle is appropriated, or to be used, and that neither of the young people need keep the eye open for anybody else — but I have not the authority of Confu- cius for this explanation. " The next step in the process appears to us a little more sensible ; and I am sure the boys present wiU wish that our own custom were more after the same fashion. 38 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " When our young people are engaged, they usually think of making presents to one another. Adolphus, perhaps, buys a gold locket, and has his photograph taken, and inserted inside ; and Clementina, perhaps. AVEDDING FEAST. has some pleasant surprise for her intended, on his birth- day, in the shape of a green silk necktie with yellow spots. Or, perhaps, the gentleman presents the lady with an engaged ring, and, she in return, purchases a scarf pin, or some other token of affection. But in these cases no one but themselves are at all interested ; the MATCH-MAKING. 39 young gentleman does not SQek to propitiate the younger branches of his intended's family; they are not in a state of excitement when they are told he is coming to spend the evening. He has eyes only for his loved one, and presents also ; and the young couple generally make themselves so stupid that they are left to them- selves pretty much to consume the time by spoons-ful. But in China it is different. When the lucky day has been iixed upon, after consulting the fortune-teller, the young man presents the material for the bridal dress, and the wedding cakes to the bride's family. The number of these ' cakes of ceremony ' varies from several score to several hundreds. 'They are round, and about an inch thick, weighing generally about one pound and ten or twelve ounces each, and measure nearly a foot in diameter. They are made out of wheat flour, and contain in the middle some sugar, lard, and small pieces of fat pork, mixed together in a kind of batter, and then cooked ! they are, in fact, a sort of mince pies. There is also sent a sum of money, of greater or less amount, according to previous agree- ment; a quantity of red cloth, or sillc usually not less than five kinds for the use of the bride; five kinds of dried fruits, several kinds of small cakes, a cock and a hen, a gander and a goose. The top one of the various stacks of these wedding-cakes, as they are carried through the streets, has several 40 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. small doll-like figures, made out of wheat flour, each a tew inches high, and fastened upon slips of bam- boo, stuck into it. The famUy of the girl, on receiv- ing these wedding-cakes, proceed to distribute them among the relatives and intimate friends. The small cakes are also distributed in a similar manner. The money sent is generally spent in outfitting the bride.' " I am indebted for these particulars to a work on ' Social I;ife of the Chinese,' by Eev.. Justus Doolittle, fourteen years member of the Fuhchau mission of the American board; a work contaiuing a vast amount of interesting details of Chinese life, but unfortunately it is now out of print. " I once heard rather a good story about^a German wedding. In some parts it is customary for the guests to bring a jar of wine, and throw the contents into a large cask on arrival. " It was the wedding-day of a German Jew, and a number of guests arrived, each with a jar, the contents of which were duly thrown into the cask. When the father of the bridegroom came to draw off the wine, he was surprised to find nothing but water. The fact was, that each guest had imagined that every other would bring wine, and that one jar of water would not be detected. But as they were all Jews, and all sharp ones, they all thought the same ; and so all were found out. MATCH-MAKING. 41 "The parents of the bride do not accept all the presents, but only some of them, retaining the male of each animal ; they also, in their turn, make presents, consisting of a pair of red candles, one with a dragon, and the other with a phcenix painted on it, a pair of large pewter candlesticks, two packages of white Chinese vermicelli, a pair of satin boots, a red official cap, and material for a kind of dress-coat, and a large quantity of artificial flowers, made out of velvet, or of pith- paper, generally known as " rice-paper. " " The part most interesting to my hearers is, that these joUy cakes are divided amongst the relatives, in such sensible slices as to make the little morsels of wedding- cake doled out in this country quite contemptible. "A few days before the wedding the family of the bridegroom makes another present of various articles to the family of the bride ; and some days later the match-maker takes from the family of the bride a red card stating the quantity of furniture which will form her dowry, and when it may be expected to arrive. The furniture is not removed in huge vans, so as to 'require no packing,' but is made the subject of a procession; and of course, the more imposing the quantity and quality of furniture the better pleased are the parties concerned. " On the day before the wedding, the bride has a gathering of her friends, when she has her hair done 42 THE LAND OJ? THE PIGTAIL. up in the style of married women, and tries on her ■wedding garment, to see that everything is in order for the morrow ; and also that her friends may admire her. She then lights incense before the ancestral tablets, and kneels down before and worships her parents, grand- parents, and uncles and aunts, if any are there. " The sedan-chair, or wedding carriage, is sent to her house on the same afternoon, attended by a band of music, and men carrying torches, lanterns, and lighted candles, and a large umbrella. The chair is always red; the men who carry it and the musicians have caps with red tassels, for this is the bridal colour. The band are provided with lodgings, to be ready for the wadding. " The bride rises early, and having breakfasted, she is adorned for the bridal, the match-maker being in attendance to direct matters. " The bride's dress consists of scarlet and embroidered work, a head-dress of gilt tinsel with long threads of pearl beads falling from it over her face. Bells are attached to her — not helles, for her bridesmaids are all married women ; and the little feet — the chief form of beauty — are clad in rich scarlet satin shoes. The face is covered with a white cosmetic, so that she cannot blush, as all well-behaved English brides are supposed, to do ; the lips and centres of the cheek are stained with henna, which gives a redness to these features. " Similar costume is used at the bridals of the poor. MATCH-MAKING. 43 but with them it is hired for the day. When the time arrives for her to take her seat in the sedan — ascertained by the fortune-teller — the bride's parents throw over her a thick veil, so as to conceal her features. "The procession is headed by two men with large lighted lanterns; having the fa,mily name of the bride- groom cut out of red paper, and pasted upon them. Then come two men with similar lanterns, bearing the family name of the bride. Then comes a man with a large red umbrella, then the band, and then the sedan- chair, accompanied by friends of the bride, and also by friends of the bridegroom who have been despatched for that purpose. " The house of the groom is ornamented outside with lanterns of various sizes and devices j and when the sedan arrives there, fire-crackers are let off, and the band does its best, or worst. The sedan is carried into the reception-room, and then her female friends help her to alight, when she is conducted to her chamber, where the groom is standing beside the bed. They both seat themselves, and in so doing each tries to sit upon some portion of the dress of the other, as an omen of subjection. After sitting thus in silence for a minute or two, the groom leaves the room and waits the bride's arrival into the reception-room, where together they kneel before a table and worship the five chief objects of veneration, heaven, earth, emperor, parent, and 44 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. teacher. The bride and bridegroom go through a great deal of bowing and kneeling ; they are then presented by female attendants with wine, and with some of the fruits provided, and then the ceremony is over. The bride then retires to her apartment, where she is dressed for dinner, and having got rid of her outer garments and the thick veil, the husband enters, and certainly for the first time that day, and often for the first time in life, sees the features of the wife of his bosom. " He must have wonderful faith in the match-maker ! you would think ; he must have worked himself up into a state of great excitement, wondering what she would be like ! you would suppose. But nothing of the kind-; it has been a matter of indifference to him throughout. He did not want to marry, but he was old enough, and so he had to. He had never fallen in love, and so he did not care who his wife was to be. " Well, that style of doing things would not suit our notions ; and with marriages begun in that way we can- not expect very much fondness and affection. " The bride and bridegroom sit down to dinner alone, in her room ; but the door is left open so that the rela- tives and guests can come and observe the fair lady, and see the gallant gentleman. Eather poor fun that, though, to see the groom with a most unromantic appetite polish- ing off the good things, one after another ; but still worse must it be for the bride, who is not allowed to MATCH-MAKING. 45 eat anything at all. Later in the afternoon the guests are all seated to dine, each one having previously made a present of a sum of money to the bridegroom. "A marriage thus commenced so miserably, to our mind, for the bride, cannot promise any great amount of happiness ; and whatever truth there may be here in saying that ' marriage is a lottery,' there can be no doubt that it well describes the institution in China. Chapter iy, AN emperor's wedding. EDDINGS are things we should never hurry over. We have a say- ing, ' Marry in haste' and repent at leisure;' and in the case of a wedding of an emperor of China, which does not happen every day, I am sure you will excuse me if I ask your further attention. You will please to bear in mind what I said about marriages generally ; and you will see that even the bride of an emperor has not a very desirable time of it. " This imperial wedding, in October, 1872, was con- sidered to be an event of so much importance that long accounts of it appeared in some of the daily papers at the AN emperor's wedding. 47 time, and one, at least, of the illustrated papers sent an artist to China on purpose to furnish sketches. I have not seen the accounts or the sketches of this latter paper, but I read with interest a letter from a correspondent of ' the Daily News ' at Peking, from which I will make some extracts. While showing that the Emperor is subject to some of the usual matrimonial laws, it will tell us of some special incidents in the marriage of an Emperor that are not generally known. In fact, I never read any details of such a marriage, nor have I ever met with any one who witnessed one ; so that I wOI allow this correspondent to tell his own story in his own words ; — "Peking, October 13th. " The manner in which the bride was selected for the Emperor of China is worthy of being told. In some points it reminds one of the competitive examination system, which, of course, is Chinese in principle. A Chinese Emperor is not like a European monarch. He acknowledges no other king, or rank of his own kind ; hence there is no prince's daughter who can be asked for his wife. There are princes in China, but they are of the Imperial family, and cannot intermarry. He must take his wife, from the people, and she must be- long to one of the eight banners. It so happens that there are two empresses, the one is called the eastern empress and the other the western. The empress of 48 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. the late emperor is not the mother of the present one ; she had no son. In such a case if one of the other wives has a son she is raised to the Imperial rank, and is called the western empress. When the selection of a bride had to be made these two ladies issued orders to all the chiefs, who had daughters of the desired age, to send them to the palace. One would naturally suppose that such an order would have been obeyed with the greatest of alacrity, and that fluttering hearts would have crowded to the palace in hopes of gaining such a prize, and that such arts as were practised for Cinde- rella's slipper would be largely employed to produce whatever may be considered the legal type of beauty in Peking ; that dress, ornaments, cosmetics, and whatever could add a charm to the young beauties would be freely used. Strange to say, it is the very opposite of all this that takes place. It would seem that families do not like their daughters to become the wife of an emperor, not even to be his empress. A girl is in a sense lost to the family, for she is kept so secluded in the palace that the relatives seldom or never see her ; and it brings the parents and family into a position and prominence which is dangerous in a country like this. So they try every plan to avoid sending their children. Parents allege that they are cripple, or deaf, or blind, and in some cases lameness is imitated, and deformities are artificially produced. To such an extent had it been AN EMPEEOli'S WEDDING. 49 carried that orders, it is said, were issued that blind, lame, and deaf were all to be sent to the palace. Some- where about six or seven hundred girls appeared on the day fixed, and they were brought before the eastern and western empresses in batches of ten. The two ladies minutely inspected the girls, spoke to them, and put questions as to their education and such matters as they deemed important. It would be a curious thing to know upon what principle they acted in such a case — whether beauty, good sense, or behaviour and education, or what were considered the most important points. About fifty or sixty young ladies were selected as a result of this first inspection. Their names were taken, and the cba- racter and position of their families were inquired into ; their horoscopes also would be carefully calculated. After this had been done another inspection was gone through, and thirty were separated front the batch; these were then kept in the palace, so that their merits and demerits could be more accurately ascertained. After a short trial the number was reduced to twenty, then to ten, and at last it became a tie of two ; and thus an empress was selected. At the same time four other wives were chosen, and these will form the commence- mentr of the imperial harem. "A large palace was built for the elected bride in the northern part of the Tartar city, and here she has resided under the tjare of a number of ladies of £ 50 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. the palace, whose duties are to instruct her in all the necessary court etiquette, and she -will be taken from this palace to the great imperial palace on her wedding day. Being a Manchu, she has not got the small feet of the Chinese ladies. It is really supposed that the choice of the bride is the result of her merits, and not any affair of court or family intrigue ; and as an evidence of this, it is stated that the bride's family was partly in disgrace from her grandfather having been sentenced to be beheaded about ten years ago. He was supposed to have suffered this punishment, but he has now turned up, and figures in some of the marriage ceremonies. " There is a very curious bit of romance told about the Emperor while this competitive examination was going on for his bride. He had a dream at the time, and he told it to his mother. It was that he had fallen in love with a young lady, and that she was hump-backed. As lame and deformed were all ordered to the palace, a hump- backed girl was really among the number, and the empress took the dream as an omen that this was the one who ought to be his wife. She was one of the first fifty or sixty selected, and medical men were consulted as to the possibility of curing the deformity. After some vain efforts it is said that a farrier, a very strong man, tried by force alone to push in the hump, a,nfl that it ended in the death of the poor girl. AN empeeoe's wedding. 51 " The Emperor is said to be seventeen years old, but that means that he is only fifteen. Every Chinaman has the right ,to add an extra year to his age, and the Emperor has the right of adding two years. As yet he is supposed not to have seen his future consort, and will not see her till she arrives at the palace on the day of the marriage. For a lover this would be a very hard condition of things, but imperial love seems to be a very different matter from the ordinary article in common life. One could suppose an ardent youth placed as the imperial bridegroom is situated, and trying to imagine his future wife, that he might form an ideal of her, and something like the feeling of love might exist. This does not seem to be the case; at at least it is hard to suppose it can be from what is reported to be going on. No idea can be formed from this of the private character or feelings of the Emperor. Everything he does, and the conduct of every one about him, is rigidly defined in a book of ceremonies. Every event in the Emperor's life, from his birth to his death, is regulated by this book, which is said to extend to about 200 volumes. In such an ample code there wUl be, no doubt, many volumes devoted to such an important event as the addition of an empress to the imperial dignity, but it is hard to understand how the ■art of love' can be taught by an imperial code, however voluminous. It is hard to imagine what the 52 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. real character of an Emperor of China really is. He is so shut out from all the world that he is called, among many titles, the ' solitary prince,' and he may truly be said to be ' as lonely as a god.' State officials only approach him in a prostrate attitude, and must go through their ceremonies or duties according to the dictates of this book of 200 volumes. Not a remark, not even a v^ord or smile to express or communicate a thought or feeling, can take place ; and he has been so from his cradle. One wonders if a soul so isolated as this from all other souls can possibly have grown and been developed. Can a heart so carefully kept away from contact with all other hearts possibly feel like the rest of mankind ? What he is no one can really find out. A writer wanting to describe such a character cannot get the slightest information. An artist desiring a portrait can only do so by evolving it out of his inner consciousness. Photographers have come to Peking and tried every means, but found all to be hopeless. One photographer offered to leave the camera all arranged, so that his presence would not be required ; but the son of the sun would not even allow the sun this exclusive right of portraiture. It is highly probable that tbere is nothing in the 200 volumes as to how an emperor ought to sit when being photographed, and had he tried to do so, the chances are that he would have looked in two or three directions during AN eiiperoe's wedding. 53 the sitting, and the result would not have been a flattering likeness. What an Emperor of China would think, or how. the satellites about him might act, on seeing a lot of smudges as the likeness of him who sits on the dragon throne, it is impossible to say; my opinion is, that it is a lucky thing for the photographer his request was refused. This seclusion of the Emperor has also to be carried out in relation to the Empress, and it results that all the ceremonies of the marriage are hid from the vulgar eye." " The marriage of an Emperor of China is an event of no every-day occurrence, but for an account of it to be published by an eye-witness is almost an unheard-of event. "The secrecy with which the pageant is observed serves to show how unlike other mortals the Chinese are. Other Eastern monarchs of great possessions and greater individual power 'are wont now arid then to indulge in gorgeous shows and magnificent spectacles ; but they serve the purpose of showing their power and splendour, and of pleasing their people in witness- ing them. But the late marriage procession was kept so private that no one, either native or foreign, was allowed to see it. Thanks, however, to the curiosity and perseverance of Englishmen, who are not even to be baffled by mandates of celestial emperors, we have an account of what occurred on this interesting occasion : — 54 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " In the dusty streets of Peking a line of route was selected from the bride's housa to the imperial palace. For the centre of the way the path was made even, and sprinkled with new sand to make it yellow — the imperial colour. For about a week before the marriage there was a procession every morning along the whole of this route of what 'the foreigners' here call the bride's trousseau; but, on inquiring further, it is explained that it was the articles sent as presents from all parts of China ; and as these articles are all taken to the quarters in the palace where the Empress will for the future reside, the Scotch word ' plenishing,' which a lady here has applied to them, describes most nearly their real character. Every morning, shortly after daybreak, there has been an extended line of these presents carried along in charge of mandarins, bannermen, police, imperial porters — I don't know the Chinese word for them — in red dresses with white spots. These marriage gifts present a great variety of objects. Some were large cabinets, others small dishes, chairs, goblets, vases, washhand-basin stands, gold and silver articles of all kinds. The smaller things were carried on yellow tables, where the articles had to be secured. They were bound by strips of yellow and red silk, forming a combination of the imperial and nuptial tints. To see these articles of imperial house-furnishing the AN emperor's wedding. 57 people of Peking came out in crowds every morning, and lined both sides of the route all the way. One morning the articles to be carried were more precious than the others, so the procession started before day- break, and the sightseers who came were rather disap- pointed. It was explained that this was to prevent any accident from the roughs of Peking making a dash and trying their hand at a game of grab. There was another attraction for the public ; that was the drilling of the men to carry the chair of the Empress, — this was the bridal chair — a most important part of a Chinese wedding. The imperial porters were drilled so as to be able to carry it steadily, and to relieve each other quickly, and it was rumoured that, as a test of the men, a vase filled with water was placed in the chair, to see if they could carry it without spilling. Crowds came to see the chair when it was announced to come out, but at these times it never appeared, and always seemed to take advantage of the public by going through its drill when not expected. "This careful drilling for a grand procession would indicate that at least in externals there would be some- thing worth looking at. If an emperor or empress could not be seen, at any rate the glitter of their greatness would be visible to the mass : but one could not but notice that all the streets or openings which led into the line of march were having bamboo frames erected ^ 58 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. and at last curtains of blue cloth and mattings were placed on them to block up the view. On inquiry, it was stated that the plan of those who govern in these matters — and there is a board of rites and ceremonies, with 200 volumes to guide their proceedings — had no intention to let the public see any of the procession. In addition to this a message was sent round to the foreign legations, asking each minister to prohibit his country- men from going out on the line of march on the 15th or 16th of October — a request which was laughed at in more ways than one. Such being the plan of the ceremony, one naturally asks for what purpose is a grand state procession got up if no one is to see it ? A few did see it — that I know, but officially no one was supposed to view the line of route. A few dogs got on the ' yellow way,' and no one seemed to disturb them, so they, with the police, alone had the privilege of seeing this imperial pageant. * • « * * " The procession was Hot very long, but the dresses and appointments were splendid. First came a prince on horseback; then 48 white ponies, with yellow housings, led by men in scarlet ; the band, in scarlet, silent ; 32 banners, 48 fans (big round things), 2 black umbrellas, 2 white ditto, 6 yellow ditto, 6 red ditto, 2 blue ditto, 2 embroidered yellow ditto, 192 lanterns (all these things carried by men in scarlet) ; Prince AN emperok's wedding. 59 Kung, looking very handsome on horseback, with his four-bearer chair carried beside him ; the chair, yellow and gold, carried by 16 coolies, all in scarlet (with batons), with 16 spare coolies to relieve them (the chair apparently containing the bride) ; about 100 officials on horseback, in their best clothes ; about 200 officials on foot, ditto." Chapter^ v. CONCERNING EATING. NE of the first things a person has to do in landing on a foreign shore is to look out for something to eat and drink, and especially if he conies off along voyage, and has had little for some time but hard junk, and harder biscuits. " Fortunately for some of us who had never been to China before, some of our shipmates knew all about the manner of living, and so we were prepared to know ' what to eat, drink, and avoid.' " We did not expect, on landing at Canton, to have roast beef and plum pudding, and so we did not order CONCERNING EATING. 61 any ; but ' we just patronized the first itinerant cook- shop we met with. The spirited proprietor had pitched at the corner of a street, and had lit his lanterns, for it was evening; and he was engaged in getting up his charcoal fire by blowing through a bamboo tube. THE COOK SHOP. Directly we stopped at his stall, he got up and made one or two signs, and spoke two or three words which neither of us understood. But pointing to my own mouth and placing my hand pathetically on the part of the body that wanted filling, I made him understand our wants, for I find, wherever I go, that the fundamental principle as taught us by Mr. Tozer is everywhere understood, — 'that nature abhors a vacuum.' John Chinaman gave what for him would be a decided wink, 62 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. to let US know he understood our cosmopolitan dialect, and then opened two or three of his drawers, and produced a rice- flour dumpling filled with some sweet stuff, and stewed in some sort of sweet sauce. It is no use thinking of going anywhere, even in our own land, if you haven't faith ; and it needed but for John to, say ' Eice,' to obtain an order for some of the dumplings. These were so nice that we thought we might ' go further and fare worse;' so we stuck to these, until we ate so many as to get beyond our calculation. Not beyond John's powers, however ; for when we came to pay the reckoning, he held up ever so many fingers, and demanded threepence of our money, or about ninety cash. It was quite an extravagant outlay, and we were the best customers he had had for some time. This was the best fare his stall supplied ; and the majority of his customers, who would be of the poorer classes, could not afford such dainties. They would have to be content with a bowl of boiled rice, with a salted vegetable, or a slice of green or brown seaweed in it. There is yet a lower kind of food which beggars and the very poor have to put up with, consisting of horrible-looking puddings, which we saw floating about in oil by no means savoury. Dogs and rats are also eaten ; in fact, there is a breed of dogs called ' chow-chow dogs,' which are fed for consumption. " I see some of my audience making wry faces, and CONCERNING EATING. 63 iawardly saying, 'JSTasty creatures;' and no doubt, from the standpoint, or rather, sitting-point, of our tables, we should think them rather queer. But let me say that Chinese cooking is amongst the best in the world ; and they pride themselves on the perfection to which they have brought the art. ' The art of cooking consists in doing a great deal with a very little; in making a great variety of nice dishes from a few simple materials. With all sorts of poultry, and game, and joints of meat, there is not much credit in serving a grand dinner ; but I ask some of the heads of families who are how honouring me by their presence, whether their powers are not often taxed to produce a tempting dinner for their families from a mutton bone and some cold vegetables ? Why you can reckon up on your fingers the dinners we usually have in England ; and so long as money is no object, and there is no need to make much of what is left from one day to another, it matters but little. " Now the Chinese are not only able to present a great variety of dishes, but they are most economical in their cookery, which is more than can be said for English cooks — at least so far as my small experience goes, backed up by what I have heard some of our officers say, who have travelled a great deal. " Animal food is not used in joints, but as entries, and so served that knife and fork are not required. From 64 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. amongst their delicacies I may name a few. Bird's.-nest soup — this is eaten with porcelain spoons, and not with the regulation chopsticks, of which more presently ; sea- slugs — ah ! you shrug your shoulders, but they are not unlike fat turtle in taste ; deers' tongues, ducks' tongues ; sharks' iins ; eggs a year old, preserved in clay ; shrimps ; sweetmeats ; garlic and other pickles ; and last, though not least, bamboo root. A Chinese dinner of any pre- tension will consist of from twenty to fortj' courses. -If the party be small, each guest wiU help himself with his chopsticks, and then with these useful articles, which are not unlike two ivory knitting-needles, he will, holding his plate in his hand, whip up the food in a marvellously dexterous manner. " The feat is seen to perfection when they are eating rice, which is cooked, not as we too often cook it in a solid sort of dripping mass, but so that each particle is separate from the other. A Chinaman wiU, with his chopsticks held between his finger and thumb, keep up a perfect avalanche of rice particles without dropping one. Ah ! you see me imitate the way in which the bowl is held in one hand and the chopsticks in another ; but I could no more imitate the genuine use of the sticks than I could speak the language; and I have known those who have been resident in China for some considerable time who were quite unable to do it. You would laugh to see them thus eating ; but the way we CONCERNING EATING. 65 eat strikes tliem even more forciMy, not witli amuse- ment, but with horror. They say, ' We sit down to our meals as rational beings ; but you English sit down as barbarians, with your knives and forks, hacking and hewing about your great pieces of flesh/ The use of the knife is unknown at table, except so far as one may be necessary to sever any piece of meat in a dish which may require it. What they would say if they saw some of our countrymen doing double duty with the knife, and making it thus supersede the fork, I can- "not imagine. They are not very emotional, and do not faint ; and there is not enough vital power at the end of their pigtails (especially as the tail is of false hair) to make them stand on end. But it is to be hoped, for the credit of our country, that people who put their knives in their mouths neVer leave home. " I mentioned just now, among the eatables, bamboo. One might almost say of it, what the man in 'David Copperfield ' said of tobacco, that it was ' meat, drink, washing, and lodging.' To so many uses is it put, that I don't know what the Chinese would do without it. It seems to be almost universally used, like the man's patent medicine that could cure anything incident to humanity, from a corn down to a consumption, and yet was so specifically, as well as generally useful, that he instructed an agent in Canada to add to a list of ita F &6 ' THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. marvellous powers, its ability , to ciire any particular disease incidental to that climate. , " Just, let me give you a list of articles made from thie bamboo — soldiers' hats and shields, umbrellas, soles of shoes, scaffolding-poles, paper,- pencil-holders, brooms, sedan-chairs, pipes, flower-stakes, trelliswork in gardens; pillows are made of the shavings ; a kind of rush cloak for wet weather is made from the leaves ; sails and covers" for boats; fi'shing-rods and baskets, fishing-stakes and buoys; catamarans — rude boats, made of a few logs of it lashed together"; and last, though not least in this catalogue, which is far from a complete one, the important chopsticks. " But I was talking of it as an eatable. It is pickled . and eaten as a relish. Now, as you^ know, a bamboo is a cane, so that, when pickled, it is simply pickled cane or walking-stick. I had one bottle given, me, and of course opened it, determined to' like it, though I could not get over the idea that I was munching up walking- stick, so hard was it to masticate ov digest. At last I came upon a piece so hard that I fancied it must be the ferrule of the stick, and there my" experience of the , article stopped. I suppose it had not been in pickle long enough to get soft. " The bamboo, however, has a stUl further use in this direction : it is kept as a rod in pickle, especially for Chinese boys, and- which is found not to get soft with CONCERNING EATING.- 67 age, but often on the contrary. The application of it is not in front, but behind, and is not at mealtimes at all; though it is very often nothing more than the boy's desert. I have said that, in many particulars, the Chinese are utter barbarians, and far behind our civilisation, and this is a proof which I am sure you will all readUy admit." This last remark of Charley's was received with deafening applause by the boys, and with laughter by all, though Mr. Tozer took care, as the boys all looked at "him, to shake his head and declare he did not commit himself to any such sentiment. " I have mentioned, I think, that most of the trades • are carried on, not in shops, bxit on stalls, and by itinerant tradesmen. We stopped at the stall of the cookshop man, who is generally to be found at a corner of the street ; but other of our wants had to be sup- plied, and when we wanted fruit or vegetables we stopped the provision-seller. " Knowing something of Chinese trickery and sharp practice, we never gave the price first asked, but always shrugged our shoulders and held up our hands in horror at the sum mentioned, at the same time trying to manifest as much indifference as possible whether we made any purchase or not. It was rather amusing^ chaffering with these men, buyer and seller being quite ignorant of each other's language, — though, for that 68 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. matter, Jolin had the advantage ; for he was able to _ jerk in a few English words, which he imagined must settle the bargain. ' Cheap-ee,' and ' number one,' meaning first-class, were words constantly used. We often had lots of things we did not want, but THE PROVISION-SELLER. which we got saddled with in consequence of John accepting our offer, which we had fixed so far below what he had asked that we felt sure he would never take it. CONCEKNING EATING. 69 " I may say here that the Chinese at CaEiton are most anxious to pick up an English lingo, and to show it off whenever they can. Canton English is made by add- ing final vowels to every word where possible : thus ' talk-ee,' for speak, ' pieceey,' for piece ; sometimes by making a jumble of a word from the French, as ' sayey,' for knew. But the English word most used is ' pigeon,' which is employed for business, or trans- actions in their most extended sense. " I was never fortunate in meeting any Chinamen who knew much English, but I have been told that when they are constantly in company with Englishmen they pick it up very quickly. I heard an amusing story of 9. servant who wanted to convey to his master the pleasing intelligence that his friend, Mrs. Smith', had just presented her husband with a little girl, and he ' expressed himself thus : — '. Missa Smith one small pieceey cow-child hab got.' "I don't call that at all a bad way of making so delicate an announcement. The ' small pieceey ' gives a very good idea of the size of the little wee stranger ; and the ' cow-chUd ' fixes the , gender unmistakably ; and, after all, this mixture of the human species with the lower creation is not confined to foreigners : it is most common in agricultural districts in England. A friend of mine told me of a scene that took place in a farmyard in Wiltshire. A gander, anxious for the 70 'the land of the pigtail. welfare of his young family, which waddled after him, nipped a farm-boy by the calf of the leg, for an assault threatened or imagined.' The youngster waited until ^ all the goslings had- gone by except the last, when against this one he let fly his heavily booted foot, and knocked the bird over. A labourer, at some little distance, thus inquired the reason for such a proceed- ing :— " ' You great gawkin' fool ! what's kick goos-mon- chick for ? ' "To which the boy replied, in injured tones, and rubbing his leg meanwhile, — " ' What's goo^mon-chick's dad bite I's leg for, then 1 ' "Mr. Fortune, the botanist, tells a story of Canton English which I may repeat'. He was asking a gardener what he put in with his seeds when packing, and was told 'burnt lice.' He meant 'rice,' for the Chinese turn the ' r ' into ' 1.' And on being asked why he used the rice, he replied, ' S'pose me no mixee this seed, worms makee c-how- chow-he.' "You will gather that the Chinese delight in bargain- ing '; but our chaffering with them was as nothing com- pared with theirs with one another. They are all dis- posed to cheat whenevei; they can, and as both buyer and seller pursue the same game, you may imagine that it is a case of ' diamond cut diamond.' " The men with poultry make up balls of moistened CONCERNING EATING. 71 pollard, and'- thrust tbem down the throat of the birds to increase their weight ; and they will blowout stale fish with a reed untU they appear plump and fresh. " Nothing protects the purchaser but his own sharp- - ness. Deceit, and trickery, and adulteration are not recognised ; nor are there any standards of weights and THB POULTRY-SELLER. measures. The seller has a ste.elyard, of course favour- ing himself; and sometimes the buyer brings with him g, steelyard inclining to his side; and the squabbles and disputes, and clamouring and abuse that go ou must be seen and heard to be believed. " I heard once of a man' who went into a dame's shop 72 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. for half an ounce of tobacco, but tbe weight could not be found. A happy thought seized the man, and he put his great thumb into the scale, declaring that it just weighed the half-ounce. I need not say the woman was English, and not Chinese. " The man in the picture is not so easily to be taken in : he objects to the weight of theTowl as given by the market-man, who has to give the beam a gentle tilt to make the other end go down. " A long wrangle will ensue as to the weight, and then another as to the price ; and eventually the purchase will be made, each congratulating himself that he has done the other. "In the presence of some representatives of English trade, I suppose I mxist not say anything about adulte- ration and false labels, apd.'deficient weights and forged trade-marks, or any tricks of trade said to be sometimes, practised by a few disreputable and obscure traders ; but we can say that these cpnstitute the exceptions, -and that when detected they are exposed and denounced, and not justified. "The Chinese generally do not show up very favour- ably in their business matters. I soon found that out for myself. You must know that they are very fond of ' chin-chinning ' — that is, of making presents and get- ting others in exchange ; but always taking care to get ' the better of the bargain. When I first went to China, CONCEENING EATING. 73 before I landed, one of them made his way on board, came into my cabin, and at once struck up an acquaint- ance. Seeing some old coins on my table, the greedy fellow at once wanted them, though they were no use to him. ' You chin-chin me and I'll chin-chin you,' said he, tiU at last it was arranged that he should take the coins and give me a lot of silk for them. I was told I was ' done,' but I must say I did not expect that I should be unable to get anything at all from him. " But about my friend — poor Captain Tucker. He had been engaged for some years in the merchant service, trading with China, had saved some money, and was returning home to retire. With all his money and some borrowed from his employers, he bought a quantity of-floss silk — such as would send your mothers and elder sisters into ecstasies to possess. It is so soft and glossy, and th« colours^are so brilliant, that no country can equal them. Well, the cases were got on board, and during the voyage he kept on thinking what a lot of money he should make by the sale of the sUk. He could not wait tiU he got home without having a look at it, so he went down into the hold and opened one case. There lay the silk on the top, but on putting his Band down into the case, he was horrified to find that it was filled with rubbish, shavings, and sawdust. And so with every case. Poor man, how he took it to heart ! He knew he was a ruined man ; that he could not repay 74 ~ THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. his employers ; tjiat he would have to leave hi? wife and children again, and toil on at sea for many long years. He thought of their disappointment, too, until his brain gave way. The crew observed soniething queer in Jiis manner, and guessed matters weren't all right, but did not think seriously of it till they got to the Cape. Then, when one of the sailors went on shore, he wUs asked by a shoemaker what the captain was going to do with a large leather hag he had bought, not unlike a nosebag for horses. The sailor didn't know, but thought it strange, and made up his mind to watch the captain and find out. Well, that very evening poor Cap'tain Tucker filled the bag with gunpowder, and was about to set fire to it, to blow up the ship, when he was discovered. The crew was spared, the ship was saved, but before they could get to the captain, he had thrown himself out of his cabin window, and was of course drowned. " If the Chinese eat the same animals as other nations, they must catch them, or rear them, or prepare them in a way of their own. " One of their modes of catching fish is very amusing. The fisherman puts off on the river on a small raft, and has with him three or four cormorants — birds about the size of geese. These he pushes off into the water, and then waits until the birds dive &,nd seize a fish. If the birds are lazy, the man beats the water with a paddle, so that the birds are glad to get out of the reach of the CONCERNING EATING. 75 oar by diving. When the bird catches a fish, cormorant like, he would swallow it if he could ; but his master ' knows that would not pay; and so has put a ring round the bird's neck,^ which prevents him from swallqwing. As soon as he sees that the cormorant has made a cap- ture, he paddles his raft over to the spot, and by means PISHINO WITH CORMORANTS. of a small net at the end of a pole, he gets possession of the fish. Generally, when the bird gets a fish, he makes for the raft with it ; for he knows he cannot swallow it, and he also knows that his master may, perhaps, reward him with a mouthful of food which he can swallow. Chapter^ yi. ^^ ,N^>^ CONCERNING DRINKING. F course one cannot eat mtich L'^ ■* All anywhere without wanting ^1^ / ^ to drink, and especially in a ft. L^ ^ climate like that of China, where one is more disposed for liquids than solids. "The beverage drunk by the Chinese at their meals is — ah ! there you are wrong,, those of you who thought I was going to say tea. The article that has made China famous everywhere is used very frequently, as we shall presently see, but wine is the drink take^ at meal-times. It is prepared from a fermentation of rice, is very simple in its nature, and not at all injurious in its effects. This no-me wine, as it is called, is served up hot in metal pots and poured into chinaware cups. " I need not say this mild, unintoxicating liquoi; does CONCERNING DKINKING. 77 not suit" the English, and so they drink a spirit distilled from the no-me wine, which is called saw shoo, and which is really intoxicating. " The Chinese, to their praise he it spoken, are a most teraperate people. You may walk -through their largest cities, and live there for weeks, without seeing a drunken nprson ; whilst they have not, as we have, an abundant supply of good water ; so- that they are driveu to drink either wine or tea "The water in China is very scarce ; the rain-water .which is the only kind fit for drinking, is valuable because so scarce, and the weU-water is abominable. They never drink cold water by any chance, and they are very chary about applying it externally. " A Chinaman washes all over only once a year, and then the dogs, from time immemorial, have got the benefit of a similar ablution. This is a new illustration of the old proverb, ' Love me, love my dog.' " Think of that Elysium, you youngsters — if there are any here, but of course there are none, — where you can jump out of bed, and dress at once, without messing about with cold water ; where there is no getting the soap pushed in your eye ; no having the face mercilessly scrubbed by any vigorous, strong-handed nurse; no being sent away from the table on account of any brownish appearance of the paws ; no washing all round on Saturday nights in luke warm water. 78 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " A Chinaman's ablution consists in rubbing a coarse eloth soaked in warm water over his faqe and neck • and if he has a public bath, he stands in about three or four inches of water only, and shares this with several others. " The English miss the clear, fresh, plentiful water of their native land, and are only too glad to patronize the THE WATER OARRIEES. water-carriers, who bring~a poor substitute froni ponds or rivers. In dry seasons, these men reap a rich harvest. " You will notice that each bearer is supplied with a kind of crutch, by using which he is able to adjust" the burden to both shoulders, and not have all >the weight on one. CONCEKNING DBINKING. 79 " I said the Chinese are temperate, but they think highly of any one who can consume a large quantity of wine without becoming intoxicated. They think it in- dicates great mental as well as physical capacity, and they have a reverence for a great drinker. I should think that many of our sailors, and civilians too, who CAKES AND TEA. are resident there, must be objects of great esteem, and might easUy pass as men of great intellect. " It almost makes one ashamed of one's country to think that the only drunken people you meet with in China are Englishmen. They feel the thirst and lassitude which the climate induces, and, instead of 80 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. using those beverages' which the Chinese themselves find most useful and least injurious, they must drink the stronger, and -more intoxicating liquors. " John Chinaman drinks tea all day long when he can get it, and, thanks to the public spirit and philanthropy of some of their benefactors, there are free tea-sheds erected in convenient parts of the cities. This is like our idea of free drinking-fountains, which an admirable. and most useful society makes it its business to provide. " If you go into a shop, perhaps the owner is in his sitting-room, smoking his opium pipe, or having a snooze. You knock and you are not ■v\?^aited dn ; you . knock again and, for want of something better to do you take up the tea pot On the counter, and help your- self to a cup of tea. Should the cunning little eye of the- spirited proprietor observe you at this, he will make it the excuse to complete.his forty winks, if you have disturbed him. Or, if you visit a friend, you are shown into a sitting-room, and you will have brought you at once a tea-pot and some cups! You do not wait for an invitation, but help yourself, and thus pleasantly fill up the time, and yourself too. When your friend appears, you will go at it again with him. " Should you have no friend on whom to call, and you feel thirsty, you wUl meet with a tea and cake stall, at wbich you may quench your thirst and have some temptiag confectionery for next to nothing, as the say-' a TEA. 83 ing is. You may miss the mUk and sugar at first, for neither is used by the Chinese ; but you will soon get to like it. You may suppose that hot tea in hot weather is neither cooling nor refreshing, but experience proves the contrary. Mr. Fortune, whose works on the tea- plant are standard ones, and from whom I shall quote presently, says : ' I do not know anything half so refreshing on a hot summer's day as a cup of tea with- out milk or sugar. It is far better and more refreshing than either wine or beer. It quenches thirst, is a gentle stimulant, and wards off many of the fevers incident to such a climate.' " It would be well if our labouring population could be made acquainted with that testimony, and then persuaded to try it for themselves. They would be gainers in health and in pocket, and their wives and families would be enriched. The quantity of beer and cider consumed by our rustics in hay or corn harvest is something almost fabulous ; and the fact that so much is taken shows that such drink neither quenches thirst nor strengthens the system. " In Devonshire, where cider is given to the men at harvest-time, each man's portion may be reckoned by the gallon ; for some will drink more quarts than the most confirmed tea-drinker will take cups of that beverage. " But tea against beer any day, for stimulus or refresh- 84 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. ment ; aad if hot tea cannot be got, cold tea is better than sour cider, or doctored beer. " Tea enters largely into John Chinaman's relaxation. See him at the tea gardens ! The garden is a small in- closed space, with, perhaps, a piece of stagnant water crossed by zigzag bridges, and reminding you of the willow-pattern plate. Little tables are placed about, at which the company sit, drinking tea, smoking, eating almond hardbake, or toffey, or else discussing some fruit. The game of dominoes is played silently and solemnly, and the only excitement or entertainment provided by the proprietor is a professional story-teller, who, seated on an elevated position in the middle of the garden, relates the most wonderful, or horrible, or exciting story he can imagine or remember. When he succeeds in raising any interest, so that the game is discontinued, or the toffey remains on the tongue or in the cheek unsucked, he stops abruptly and sends jround his assistant for his collection, the result of which determines him either to continue the narrative or leave it where it is, and to leave the audience in the dark as to its con- clusion. I dare say our Punch and Judy men who first made the collection at the most thrilling act of that great national drama thought themselves very clever, but they were forestalled by the Chinese long before. He must be a clever man who can raise a Chinaman's interest to any great pitch, and so the story-teUer has TEA. 85 to pile on the agony very considerably to remove tlie indifference of his audience. It takes a great deal to raise those almond-eyed, almond-hardbake-eating people ; but we won't find fault with this innocent way of spending an evening. "Not only innocent, but inexpensive, for you may have an excellent cup of tea for two cash, which is about the fifteenth part of a penny; but the cheapness of the beverage suggests the plentifulness of the article, and that win lead to a few remarks on the tea-plant. " Before, however, we enter on what may prove rather a dry subject to some, let us partake of some of the genuine article as I brought it with me from China, and prepared by that sweet lady of aU the virtues, Mrs. Krum-well. This, at least, will not prove a dry inter- ruption, but rather a moist one." At this stage, one of Charley's former companions, whom he had previously rigged up in a mandarin's dress which, he had brought home with him, entered the room with a little tray bearing a number of cups of hot tea, without milk or sugar, which were handed round to the company. Some of the guests quite fancied they might get to like the beverage as the Chinese drink it, but they preferred to use the usual English additions, AU, however, declared the quality of the tea was excel- lent, and then seated themselves to hear something about the cultivation of this world-famed beverage. 86 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " The tea-plant," resumed Charley, " was not known until the fourth century, and its cultivation did not become extensive until the ninth, when the government recommended its growth to cure some disease incurred by drinking water. Now, as we all know, its cultiva- tion extends over a large tract of country, and is not confined to large growers. Mr. Fortune says that ' The principal tea districts of China, and those which supply the greater portion of the teas exported to Europe and America, lie between the twenty-fifth and thirty-first degrees of north latitude, and the best districts are those between twenty-seven and thirty-one degrees.' Our friends can find out this district on their maps; and perhaps Mr. Tozer will kindly direct the attention of his geography classes to this subject next half. You will notice that these are the hilly districts of China ; for tea requires warm, sloping banks, and will not grow on low, wet' lands. Each small farmer will grow his patch on the hill-side, which finds employment, not only for himself, but for his wife and children. " The seeds are sown in early spring, and remain for nine or twelve months, till the shrubs are a foot high, when they are transplanted, and put in rows three or four feet apart. " In dry seasons the plants are watered by the women, as shown in the accompanying engraving, which is copied from a painting on rice-paper by a native artist. TEA. 89 The shnits produce leaves fit for gathering when two or three years old, but they do not attain their full size for six or seven years ; they bear leaves tiU they are fifteen years old. The average yield per plant is six ounces. There are four gatherings in the year — in April, May, July, and August ; the first gathering is considered the finest flavoured, but the second is the most plentiful. Women and children are largely engaged in picking the leaves, as in our illustration ; and their earnings range from twopence to threepence a day, according to their ability, out of which sum they have to board themselves. " You will see, therefore, that even when you have succeeded in cultivating the tea-plant elsewhere than in China, you must take into account the comparative cost of labour before you can successfully compete with the Celestials. " Before I say a few words about the preparation of tea for export, I must correct an impression that the green tea and the black tea are the products of a different kind of shrub. They are only subject to a different kind of manipulation, in so far as colour is concerned, but, as a matter of convenience, the preparation of black tea and green tea is kept distinct. " The Chinese themselves never drink green tea as we understand it, but they colour it for us, as we, in our superior judgment, attach a higher value to the tea thus prepared. I cannot do better than quote from Mr- 90 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. Fortune's ' Three years' Wanderings in tlie Northern Provinces of China/ who noted down tihe colouring matter, which was a mixture of Prussian blue and gypsum, burnt together till they formed ajBne powder, PICKING TEA. which was thus applied to the teas during the last process of roasting : — ' About five minutes before the tea was removed from the pans, the superintendent took a small porcelain spoon, and with it he scattered a TEA. 91 portion of the colouring matter over the leaves in each pan. The workmen then turned the leaves rapidly round with both hands, in order that the colour might be equally diffused. During this part of the operation, the hands of the workmen were quite blue. I could not help thinking, that if any green-tea drinkers had been present during the operation, their taste would have been corrected, and, I may be allowed to add, improved. It seems perfectly ridiculous that a civilized people should prefer these dyed teas to those of a natural green. No wonder that the Chinese consider the natives of the West to be a race of ' barbarians.' One day an English gentleman in Shanghae, being in conversation with some Chinese from the green-tea country, asked them what reasons they had for dyeing the tea, and whether it would not be better without undergoing this process. They acknowledged that tea was much better when prepared without having any such ingredients mixed with it, and that they never drank dyed tea themselves, but justly remarked, that as foreigners seemed to prefer having a mixture of Prussian blue and gypsum with their tea, to make it look uniform and pretty, and as. these ingredients were cheap enough, the Chinese had no objection to supply them, especially as such teas always fetched a higher price.' " The natural difference between the black and green teas arises from a difference in their preparation after 92 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. the leaves are picked ; but this I must leave for another evening, that I may not be tedious. " I may say the names of some of the teas indicate some particulars concerning their growth. Thus, Souchong means little plant ; Hyson, Hi-chun, flourishiag spring, as the leaves are gathered yearly ; — I appeal to Mr. Tapscome, whether his window does not contain a notice of his ' Fine young Hyson ; ' — Pekoe, Pecco, making white hairs, as its young leaves have a down on them ; Bohea, Bu-i, hUls, where it is produced ; Congou, Kung-foo, meaning labour, because the leaves are subjected to frequent rubbings." Chapter yii. the cup that chekrs, and the drug that debases. HE cultivation and prepa- ration of the tea-plant afford employment for a great number of persons of both sexes, which fact will become more ap- parent when we are told that the yearly consump- tion of tea by the Chinese exceedathousandmillions of pounds. The consumption in England last year exceeded one hundred and twenty-three millions of pounds ; and perhaps almost half that quantity was con- sumed on the Continent. Eor some interesting particu- lars concerning the preparation of tea for the market, 94 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. I am again indebted to Mr. Fortune, whose second work on the ' Tea Districts of China ' may be fully relied on. " The leaves are first spread out thinly on flat bamboo trays, to allow any moisture to dry, and remain thus for one or two hours. Pans are heated over a wood fire, and into them are thrown the leaves, which are kept shaken about with both hands ; after being subject to the heat for about four or five minutes, they become quite moist, and are then taken out and placed upon the rolling-table. Each man at the table makes a ball of as many leaves as he can well hold, which he afterwards rolls upon the table till some of the moisture is got rid of. He also gives the leaves a twist, which is so important a part of the manufacture that each ball of leaves is handed to the head workman for his approval. The leaves are then thrown into a pan over a slow charcoal fire, and kept rapidly moved for about an hour and a half, when they are well dried. Their colour is now a dull green, and will not turn black. Afterwards the tea is passed through siftings, in order to get rid of the dust and other impurities, and is thus divided into twankay, hyson-skin, hyson, young hyson, gunpowder, &c. " The teas known as black teas are subjected to a rather different process, by which the leaves remain black instead of green. "When the leaves are picked, they are laid out on the bamboo trays, and are allowed TEA. 97 to remain for a long while. They are then tossed about in the air, and thrown into heaps, until it is found they are soft and moist, and smell fragrantly. The leaves are roasted in the pan for about five minutes, and after- wards rolled ; they are then exposed in the open air for about three hours to dry. A second time they are put into the roasting-pan, and a second time they are rolled. " The charcoal fires are now got ready. A tubular basket, narrow at the middle and wide at both ends, is placed over the fire. A sieve is dropped into this tube and covered with leaves, which are shaken on it, to about an inch of thickness. After about five or six minutes the leaves are removed and are rolled, and this process of roasting and rolling is often repeated for the fourth time. Then the whole is placed in the baskets, which are set over the charcoal fire, where they remain until the tea is perfectly dry. The Hack colour is brought out, but afterwards improves in appearance. " I have been somewhat minute, because I wish you to see that the difference in the manufacture not only accounts for the difference in colour between the black and green tea, but also for the different chemical pro- perties which they possess. The roasting of the leaves almost as soon as they are picked, and their being dried off quickly after the rolling, account for their colour, and, chemists tell us, also for the effect which green H 98 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. teas have on some constitutions, to cause headache or sleeplessness. " The rice-paper paintings, from which the accom- panying illustrations are copied, represent tea, coloured for the English market ; for the leaves appear of the liveliest hue. "A large number of people is employed in preparing the chests for the tea, and in packing it. Plumbers, painters, and carpenters, work at the chests, and produce those cases with their wondrous hieroglyphics. I think they might discover a more refined manner of fiUing the chests than using their naked feet to compress the tea ; but this way has been pursued for hundreds of years, and it has now .become such a time-honoured custom, that it would be wanting in reverence to the memory of their predecessors to alter it. " The chests are carried by coolies across the moun- tains, or down to the great tea emporiums, where merchants from all parts resort to purchase tea. The coarser kinds are carried, suspended on bamboos across a coolie's shoulders, but the finer teas are carried in single chests, lashed to two bamboos of about seven feet in length, the other ends of which are fastened together. The coolie carries the chest on his back, and when he wants to rest, he has only to bring the other ends of the bamboos to the ground, when the chest is raised from his shoulders, and may rest against a wall. In this way TEA. 101 the tea is never shaken, or bruised, by being bumped on the ground. "Thanks to all these operations, and thanks to the commercial spirit of our own countrymen, tea is brought to our tables at a moderate cost. To dwell on its merits would be superfluous ; and we have only to consider for a moment how many hours of our lives are spent whilst partaking of this fragrant beverage, to feel how largely it enters into our social life. We are quite ready to agree with Tungpo, a Chinese author, in his estimate of tea : ' It is an exceedingly useful plant ; cultivate it, and the benefit will be widely spread ; driuk it, and the animal spirits wiU be lively and clear. The chief rulers, dukes, and nobility esteem it ; the lower people, the poor, and the beggarly will not be destitute of it ; all use it daily, and like it.' " I have been speaking of that article which we get so abundantly from, China ; and let me now ask, what is that which the Chinese obtain most largely from us ? It is opium, the curse of China. " If, when drinking the ' cup which cheers but not inebriates,' we compare the qualities and effects of the tea-plant which we derive from China with those of that other plant, the poppy, which we import there, the comparison is, in every way, in favour of the heathen nation, and against the Christian. " I do not pretend to understand the subject in all its 102 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. bearings ; diplomatists and consular gentlemen may have a great deal to say in favour of the opium traffic that I may not be able to reply to satisfactorily ; and our old friend, the political economist, who always PACKING TEA. crops up in defence of anything that is wrong, may advance that favourite proposition of his, that it is all a question of supply and demand. Still I cannot shut my eyes,^-not so wide open as they might be, perhaps — OPIUM. 103 to these two facts : first, that this habit of opium- smoking is not only debasing and degrading, but that it saps the foundations of national prosperity; and secondly, that they learned the habit and obtained the deadly drug from us. " The opium trade does not date back further than the y-ear 1770, when it was imported from India by the East India Company. The pernicious influences arising from the use of opium soon became apparent, and led to the passing of various laws for its suppression or control ; but the consuraption increased so rapidly, and the profits were so great, that the honourable directors of the East India Company cared but little for the ruin of the bodies and souls of the Chinese, so that their coffer s might be enriched. To such an extent was the trade at length developed, that the company derived an annual revenue of five millions sterling. When the company ceased, and India became a colony of the British Crown, the importation of opium continued to form an important item of revenue, which could not be given up. " At various times our ministers sought to remove all restrictions on the trade and all enactments that made it legal, solely, of course, for British cupidity and gain ; for it was well known that this drug had proved the greatest curse with which China 'was ever visited. Against such policy, pursued by a Christian nation, let me set over the determination of a heathen emperor. 104 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. Tau Kuang, when, in 1842, Sir Henry Pottinger, the minister of our Queen, sought to legalize the trade in opium, said, ' It is true I cannot prevent the introduc- tion of the flowing poison ; gain-seeking and corrupt men will, for profit and sensuality, defeat my wishes ; but nothing will induce me to derive a reventie from the vice and misery of my people.' But his son, Hien Pung, who smoked opium before he came to the throne in 1851, yielded, after his defeat in 1858, to the demands of England, Trance, and America, and legalized the traffic by imposing an import duty on the drug. The Chinese now cultivate it to a large extent, yet the amount imported from India is yearly on the increase. There, an immense tract of country, six hundred miles long by two hundred broad, is devoted to the growth of poppies, and is entirely under the control and regulation of the Indian Government. No one can grow the poppies unless employed directly by Government, or licensed to do so ; and all must bring the juice obtained therefrom to the factories at Patna and Benares, to be there manufactured into opium. " After payment of aU expenses for the year 1867-68, the Indian Government realized a net revenue of up- wards of £7,000,000. " It is not a little remarkable that a foreign production should, in so comparatively short a time, have become so popular. There must be something in the climate or OPIUM. 105 in the natural temperament of the Chinaman that disposes him to the use of thia drug ; at first it may be taken, perhaps, for heartburn, for which it is an in- fallible remedy ; it is also useful in other complaints ; fur we know that in the form of laudanum it is often prescribed in this country. But whether taken at first medicinally or not, a very short time suffices to insure the habit. Mr. Cobbold, in his ' Pictures of the Chinese,' says, ' A fortnight's use of the drug is suffi- cient to tie the habit like a millstone round the neck, when nothing but almost superhuman effort will avail to cast it off. The gnawing agony of the unsatisfied craving is maddening ; besides which, there is a pros- tration of all physical strength, the eyes are weak and watery, the mouth runs with saliva, the mind itself has become weakened; and, in the presence of all this suffering, there is the certainty of relief a few seconds after the opium-pipe has touched the lips, a relief which lasts perhaps half, perhaps only the third or fourth part of the day, when the same craving comes round again.' " Not only is the habit very easily acquired, but when once acquired, it is almost impossible to giye it up. I have shown you some of the effects which follow a delay in its use ; and cases are recorded where utter prostration has followed the postponement by a few minutes of the time for the pipe. Death has even re- 106 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. suited from attempts to give up the habit suddenly and at once ; and in the few instances where the determina- tion to abandon it has been arrived at, the smokers have had to take opium for some time in another form, often opium and camphor pills, gradually lessening the dose. "The effects of smoking opium are invariably disturbed sleep, an appetite for dainties only, general emaciation, sallowness, sunken eyes, bloodless cheeks, and a pale, waxy appearance of the skin. The smoker is obliged to increase the dose from time to time, when there follows a corresponding reaction ; and the interval between the doses becomes less and less. Such slaves to the habit do men become, that they are utterly lost to all other considerations ; they will spend half their wages to purchase the drug, then the whole, then they will sell all their goods, and sometimes even their wives and children. " I need not stop to moralize, or to attempt to draw any lessons. I merely state facts, though I venture to think they convey their own teaching. " I am not sure, though, whether there is not more excuse for this national habit of opium-smoking than there is for ours of drunkenness. Their climate pro- duces great lassitude ; their temperament is of a dull, "sluggish, morbid nature, on which a bad habit would easily fasten ; and, at first, the effects are soothing and OPIUM. 107 pleasant. I do not think so mucli can be said for English people and their habit of drunkenness. Then something may be said for the habits of the people ; there is little or no provision made for filling up their leisure time as there is with us. A Chinaman's home is not very attractive, especially if he has been married to a wife for whom he cares but little ; he has no periodical or other attractive literature, no lectures, no evening classes, no singing societies, no tea-meetings, no joUy parties ; and so he goes to the opium-shop. " The illustration represents such a shop. Opium is sold in hard balls, which are reduced by heat to the consistency of treacle. There is some over the little charcoal stove, the fire of which the man is fanning ; underneath is a further supply of charcoal. The reclin- ing .figure speaks for himself, or rather his picture does; for he is now smoking his pipe, and would not speak to his dearest friend. A little opium is taken up and dropped into the small aperture on the top of the pipe, which answers the purpose of the bowl, and it is then applied to the flame of a lamp. The smoke is then in- haled until the man becomes unconscious, when he lies on the couch until the effect of the drug is off, and he awakes. " After what has been said it will not require any words of mine to show what an obstacle this opium traffic is to the spread of the gospel. IMany of the lower 108 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. orders imagine that our missionaries are directly in- terested in the sale of opium ; but the more intelligent, who give the missionaries credit for the hest intentions towards their race, say, ' What is your religion worth ? Your countrymen bring us in one hand the drug that AST OPICM SMOKEk's DEN. debases and kills us. We did not know its use till you brought it : and when we found out its evil effects, we tried to prevent its getting into our country. Biit your gains were at stake, and you cared not for our bodies or our souls. Now, with the other handj you bring us OPIUM. 109 your gospel, which you teU us will bless us both in body and soul. You tell us yours is a gospel of love to God and man ; your countrymen can neither love one nor the other ; they only love themselves. Take your gospel to them, for they need to be taught to do to others as they would others should do to them.' " Let me just quote a few words from some of our missionaries — men, who have given an earnest of their disinterestedness by giving up all worldly prospects for the sake of benefiting the Chinese, and who, therefore, have a right to speak about any great hindrance to their work. " The Eev. Griffith John, of the London Missionary Society, who has been fifteen years in China, writing concerning the people of Szchuen, says : ' Opium is fast eating up the stamina of these sturdy people, and it only requires one or two more decades to convert them into a comparatively imbecile race. Moreover, the opium trade has created a strong prejudice against the missionary and the gospel. The Chinese cannot see how the same people can dispense to them a destructive poison with the one hand, and a saving religion with the other.' " The Eev. J. E. Wolfe, of the Church Missionary Society, writing to its committee, says : ' There is, how- ever, one thing which the Chinese people dislike, and which has tended more than anjrthing else to produce 110 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. hatred to foreigners, and cause misery and ruin to multitudes of the Chinese people themselves ; and that one thing is the act of the British Government in com- pelling the Chinese people, at the point of the bayonet, to buy the opium, when they most virtuously and patriotically protested against it. I have invariably found, in my journeys through the country, that this act of the British Government is remembered with deep and lasting hatred by all classes of the people, and is handed down from father to son as one cause why 'the English should be held in everlasting hatred and contempt.' " I do not think that we should learn from this that sending the gospel to China is a thankless and hopeless task. Eather should we rejoice when we hear, that in spite of the obstacle which the opium traffic presents, there are many encouraging signs that Christianity is taking some hold on the people ; and I think we should feel that as so many millions are realized from the Chinese through the sale of that which tends to destroy them, we should not grudge even a large outlay, with the view of sending them the gospel to elevate and bless them. " What I have said about opium affords another illus- tration how much more readily men pick up evil habits than good otfes. I have shown you that in manufactures, in trade, and commercial and social customs, the Chinese show little disposition to alter the ways of their fathers OPIUM. Ill and grandfathers ; they have mixed with Englishmen for centuries now, but they see hut little in them worth copying, voting them harharians on the whole. But directly a poisonous drug is offered them, they purchase it readily, and soon become enslaved in the habit of smoking it. " So it is to some extent with another plant and another narcotic — tobacco. " When it was first introduced, the emperor tried to prohibit it ; and afterwards foreign sovereigns and the Pope assisted him in trying to abolish smoking, and to punish the growers. But now it is very commonly smoked, and large tracts of land are devoted to its growth. More than this, the Chinese have even begun to export tobacco, and, from some that has been im- ported here, it is said that they, the Celestials, can culti- vate the weed pretty successfully. By-and-by, perhaps, when we speak of the pig-tail in connection with China, we shall have to distinguish between the queue outside the head, and the -quid inside." ^ Chapter viii. natural productions. jF the Chinese would only show their willingness to adopt ideas from other nations as readily as they have in the two matters of opium and tobacco, there would be no end to their commercial progress. " Constitutionally they are fitted for com- merce j they are precious wide awake, and, as we have seen, are keenly alive to their own interests ; they are capable of -great labour and endurance, and, as a rule, are plodding and persevering ; they are good copyists and skilfiil workmen; and society is not divided and weakened by any rigid rules of caste. Then, geographically, they have plenty of navigable rivers and excellent canals, and a great extent of sea- board. And yet, with all these advantages, they will not make the most of their resources. The coal question NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 113 is one that has brought itself painfully under the notice of English housekeepers lately ; and it has been feared that our coal supply will not last so long as many have supposed. It is stated, on good authority, however, that we have enough to last for three hundred years ; but some have urged that an export duty should be put upon coal, as so much is sent abroad. As England is now a staunch advocate for free trade, this suggestion is not likely to be carried out. We cannot be too thank- ful for our coal-beds, which have conduced so largely to our national prosperity. Twelve thousand miles of coal have sufficed to make Great Britain the greatest work- shop in the world. But what shall we say when we are told that the coal-fields of China coVer an area of up- wards of four hundred thousand square miles^thirty- three times the extent of those of Great Britain ? Yet such is the obstinacy of the Chinese character, that they win not open a single mine, or make use of the coal in any way ; nay, more, the Chinese Government will not consent to the working of the coal-mines by foreigners on their paying a handsome royalty. Some months since, the question was asked in our House of Commons, whether our Government, in connection with others, would not try to negotiate a treaty for the safe investment of capital in mining enterprise, and in making lines of railway. The reply given was, that though our own consuls had confirmed the reports as to I 114 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. the extent of the coal-fields, and as to the facilities that existed for working them, the Chinese Government had refused, over and over again, to allow the coal to be worked by foreign enterprise. " At the custom-house at Pekin is a gasometer fed by coal brought all the way from "Wales, when there are coal-mines within a few miles of the place. It is only recently that the prejudice against the use of steamers has lessened ; and even now the mandarins will not allow the Chinese merchants to change the build of their junks, or own steam-vessels. " I am afraid some of you will think this rather a dry evening ; I saw one of you yawning just now. I take the hint, and will bring this part to a close ; but it is really necessary to say something about the great natural products of the country, and it is rather hard to be lively about coal-fields. Coming up from the bowels of the earth, let me say just a word about three staple productions on the surface. " The principal food of the Chinese is rice ; so you may readily suppose that to supply the immense population, numbering three hundred and eighty millions, a pretty considerable extent of land must be under cultivation. The average yield is three thousand three hundred pounds per acre, so that the land must be well worked to yield so much. "There are two crops yearly, sown on terraces of land, NATURAL PEODUCTIONS. 115 rising one atove the other, for the purpose of being readily irrigated, which is the most important operation in the cultivation. Springs from a high level, having watered the patches on the highest terraces, descend to the lower, and so on to the valleys. When, however, water cannot be thus obtained, pumps are used to draw it up from the lower levels to the higher. These chain- pumps have been in use for centuries, and are so ad- mirably adapted for the purpose, that they are used in some of our dockyards and elsewhere. " I have a model of one of these pumps, but it is not now in working order ; I should like you to understand how simple and yet how clever their arrangement is. I always was a poor hand at describing mechanical action, so I wlU. borrow a description of the working of an endless chain-pump. ' One end of the box in which the chain, or rather rope, and its buckets pass, is placed at an angle of forty-five degrees, more or less, with the river, canal, or pond whence water is to be brought upon the neighbouring fields. This box is open on the top and both ends, and made very strong and light, one man carrying the whole apparatus with ease on his shoulders. The chain, with its buckets, passes over a horizontal shaft, which is supported by two perpendicu- lar posts. One or more persons, steadying themselves by leaning upon a horizontal pole four or five feet higher than the shaft, and by walking or stepping 116 THE LAND OY THE PIGTAIL. briskly on short radiating arms, cause it to revolve on its axis, bringing up the water, which pours out of the upper end of the box. The faster the men walk or step, the greater the quantity of water pumped up. The water, in little streams, is made to run wherever desired.' * " Another staple product is cotton, which grows on plants about two feet high. The plots of ground on which the plants are grown are mostly cultivated by the proprietors. It is quite a patriarchal employment ; the fathers attend to the plants, the children pick the cotton, and the women and children spin, comb, and card it, and make it into cloth' for themselves and for sale. There are two kinds of cloth, white and yellow ; from the latter is made the Nankin cloth, which is very durable. One of my early recollections of boyhood is that of having a Nankin pair of unmentionables, that were always getting soiled, and were always being washed and appearing as good as new. When this cloth is dyed blue it forms the ordinary dress of the labouring class. " The third production, which is largely cultivated, is silk. It is inferior to that raised in the south of France, but its supply is very abundant, and some of the colours are very splendid and durable, or we might say fast, ia both senses. More than eight million pounds *Doolittle's "Social Life of the ChiLese.'' NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 117 of silk are exported yearly. The Chinese grow their own mulberry trees, and have their own siUcworms ; and in this latter respect are far better off than the silk- growers of Prance and Italy, who, through being unable now to rear their silkworms, are obliged to procure them yearly from Japan. " The Chinese not only get good silk, but they know how to use it. They embroider most beautifully, and their workmanship and the colours of the silk last for many years. I have by me a mandarin's dress of scarlet satin, embroidered in a manner that would make you go into ecstasies. This dress was the property of a sailor before I had it, and how long it was in his posses- sion I know not ; but in spite of its change of owners, and the not very great care taken of it, the material , is still very perfect, and the colours of the silk embroidery are very little faded. I expect this dress once belonged to a mandarin of high rank, for red denotes the first degree of official rank; it also is a symbol of virtue. Yellow is the imperial colour ; purple is for grandsons ; green for the furniture of princesses; blue denotes official rank of the third or fourth degree ; black de- notes 'guilt and vice ; and white, moral purity, and is also worn as mourning. "The artists of the needle are mostly men; they make garments for both the sexes. Chinese tailoring is like any other Chinese accomplishment, clever and unique 118 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. One is not measured by a tape, but by a stick placed against the body, and an approximate measurement guessed at. The tailor sits at his table, and not on it, with his legs doubled under him, as ours do ; he there- by avoids the injuries which ours incur. His hot iron is an original affair, being little else than an open sauce- TAILOB AT -WOKK. pan, filled with burning charcoal to keep it warm. The snake-like scissors are used very dexterously, and no doubt the shape of the handle answers some good purpose. There are no large clothing or tailors' shops, as with us, but the tailor is hired out by the day, as many people here hire dressmakers. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, 119 " Wages generally are low, but those of the tailor are unusually so, because he is always supposed to help himself to some of the material he is working at. As it is taken for granted that he is dishonest, and is paid accordingly, there is no inducement for him to be otherwise. " Eumour does say that Chinese tailors are not the only ones fond of 'cabbage;' but without venturing to assert so much of our tradesmen, I may relate an incident that happened some years ago at a country house. The wife of the worthy man who needed some new garments engaged a tailor to come and make up some material she had bought. Now this good woman had heard of the- appropriating propensities of some tailors, and she was determined to give the one she had engaged no opportunity. She sat near him and watched every movement, whilst he made all sorts of excuses to get her from the room for a while. But no ; the lady would not stir ; and the man fancied he knew the reason. Getting desperate at last, he cut off a yard of cloth, and threw it out of the window, saying, ' We always give the first yard to the devil, for luck.' " Indignant at this waste, and thrown off her guard, she declared she would not have such an expensive superstition, and at once rushed out into the front to recover the cloth. This was all the man required ; and 120 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. as soon as her back was turned he cut off a consider- able quantity for himself, and hid it away. "The Chinese are behind very few nations in the art of dress. By this I do not mean that they vary their fashions so frequently and so completely as we do, nor do they run from one extreme of dress to another ; but they adapt their costume to the season and temperature with more thought than we do. In the cold weather in China — for they have such a state of things — a Chinaman will have his furs or his,heavy cloths, and a pretty con- siderable number of garments he will put on. If you were to- see a well-to-do Chinaman undress, it would remind you of the trick of the conjuror who makes a sixpence disappear, and says it has passed into a box which he rattles ; but he has to take box from within box, until at last he gets to the one containing the coin. Now with us the great-coat is the chief difference between our dress in warm weather and in cold. There is very little variety in the texture of the cloths we wear in summer and in winter. I am not now refer- ring to that happy time of boyhood when we wore brown holland pinafores, with no jacket underneath, and white trousers. " You do not catch the Chinese rushing into the ex- tremes of long and short dresses, of wide and narrow sleeves, nor of ample and of scanty skirts ; they leave that for Western barbarians, who allow some men- NATUEAL PE0DUCTI0N3. 121 milliners to lead them by the nose, and who arbitrarily set the fashions for their own advantage, without any reference to the laws of taste. " Has anybody been wondering where the Chinese get their needles from ? Well, not from England, for they used them, I expect, long before we did, though now they have not so many nor so great a variety of these useful articles. There is an old saying that the Chinese make needles by filing down iron crowbars. Of course this is not true, but it contains this truth, that the Chinese are so persevering that they think no time nor trouble too great to accomplish their end. " They have not yet learned to make pins, but use in- stead tapes and fastenings. Now here we may pity them, and wonder what they do without them. Why, with the millions made every day we never have too many, and we are often at a loss for one. It is one of the greatest* problems that puzzles our good mothers, where all the pins can possibly get to. I fancy they must be subject to some special law of gravitation or attraction, and that they are drawn to some magnetic force underground, and out of sight. Of course, this is a subject that does not bother boys much; they dftener, I think, suffer from the presence than from the absence of pins. When buttons come off shirts, or waistcoat strings get broken, for both these catastrophes will happen, although boys are such gentle creatures, it 122 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. is very handy to repair the accident with a pin, but it is not so pleasant to have a pointed reminder of the fact. But these Chinese boys are not like ours ; they are not half so hearty or rough, and their games are of the mildest description. The absence of pins does not bother them ; they have not yet learned, so far as I know, to stick butterflies for natural history collections, nor do they know that exquisite pleasure of eating periwinkles with a pin. But how their mothers get on without pins, gets over me. Well, so do a great many other things ; and one ought never to be surprised at anything these people do, or do not do." Chapter ix. EDUCATION. ^ EW nations have given so -i.-y< much attention to educa- tion as the Chinese. You cannot be long in any Chinese town without being struck with the number of trade announcements, which are usually written by the shop- keepers themselves. In most shops you will see the stick of ink and the brush used for writing, even in very poor thoroughfares ; and instead of employing the local sign-painter to celebrate their wares, they will do it themselves on tablets outside their shops. Some of these announcements combine sentiment and business, prose and poetry, in a some- what amusing manner. One shop wiU announce itself 124 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. as ' the shop of heaven-sent luck/ which 'heing so highly favoured, one would think need not recommend itself; another as 'the tea-shop of celestial principles ;' another as 'the abode of honesty and fair dealing;' another as ' the mutton-shop of morning twilight ; ' though why people should want such substantial fare at so early an hour is not made plain. " Now these, in an educational point of view, contrast favourably with the prosaic and often iU-spelled notices in our little shops; but in point of morality I very much prefer our own ; for with all our faults, I do not think we are such inveterate story-tellers. You may see a tablet recording that the shop to which it is affixed is ' good and just, according to heaven ; ' but, as a rule, statements that have to make an appeal for celestial testimony do not proceed from truthful mortals. At Pekin one of those abominable opium-shops is called ' the thrice righteous.' " The Chinese have not gone so far in the art of adver- tising as we have, though they do stick up flaring yellow, green, and orange handbills, and they mark their commodities with their names ; but there is one means of notoriety which we have not made, the most of, and that is of calling attention to any physical peculiarity or infirmity of the shopkeeper. With us a shopkeeper with unusually bandy legs, or with a more than ordinary cast in the eye, might be an object of curiosity, and EDUCATION. 125 perhaps of ridicule to some of our boys, but the pecu- liarity would not be announced as an inducement to deal with him ; but there you may see ' the steel-shop of the pock-marked Wang/ or ' the-tea shop of the hump-backed Hang.' " I was saying how much attention is given to educa- tion. In every village of any size there is a primary school, held in a spare hall or room of some private family, or else in a part of the temple. There is no local tax or Government aid for schools, nor are there many free schools. , Every one, however poor, makes an effort to send his boys to school, and for this reason, that all Government situations are thrown open to competition. " Now our Government has only lately adopted this plan, although for some years a system of limited com- petition was tried and found to work successfully. I dare say Mr. Tozer will be preparing some of you for our Government appointments ; and if so, I am sure I hope, for your sake and for his, that you will be successful. But whether that may be your liue in life or not, I am sure you will be interested in knowing something about a system of education that has been in existence for centuries, and which, in spite of its age, is miserably defective. " Let us begin with Master John Chinaman. At an early age he is sent to school; and however dreary or Unpleasant any English boys may have found school — 126 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. of course Mr. Tozer's boys are all exceptions, — I should say our school-time was paradise compared with the period that Chinese youngsters pass through. In the first place, they are^ prohibited from playing football, flying kites, playing chess or shuttlecock ; they must not learn any musical instruments, nor must they train birds ; and all these prohibitions lest the mind should be dissipated. Then you say, perhaps, the schoolroom combines amusement with instruction. Let us see. "When he enters the school he can do nothing naturally ; he cannot sit, or walk, or stand without some rules being enforced, and the bow on entering or leaving is quite an important ceremony. They are not taught in classes nor at desks, but each pupil has a little table at which he learns by himself. "What does he learn ? Now listen, you ill-used youngster, who may have often wished that Julius Csesar had been drowned when crossing over to our island, so that he might never have written his Commentaries. Listen, you impatient young arithme- tician, who may have often sung, — ' Multiplication's my vexation ; Division's quite as liad ; The Eule of Three does puzzleme, And Practice drives me mad.' " The Chinese language is a very hard one to learn, but it is much harder to write. The pupils first learn the sounds of the characters, so as to say them off by heart EDUCATION. 127 and after years of study they begin to understand their meaning and use. As for -writing, that takes longer still. They begin to trace the characters with a hair pencil and China ink ; and it is only after years of practice that they can write well. " I know education with us is not always made so agreeable as it might be. I know we have many schoolmasters who have mistaken their calling. I know that the routine of some of our schools is not so varied and attractive as it might be made ; but, compared with the Chinese, our boys have a splendid time of it. " Their chief exercise is to commit to memory that which they do not understand, and that which is not properly explained to them. They do not learn arith- metic, geography, or any of the natural sciences, but merely the writings of Confucius and Mencius — the Classics, as they are called-. Now with us there are men and women engaged in writing books specially for schools, trying to make them as easy to be understood and as interesting as possible ; but these classics are the books of wisdom of the empire, and were never written for any but adults. Fancy sitting down fbr hours to learn lessons from books made rip of a sort of compound of Blackstone's Commentaries,' Milton's ' Paradise Lost,' Shakspeare, and Mental and Moral PhUosophys. " You must know that Confucius, the great Chinese philosopher, was born B.C. 551. He was a public 128 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. teacher of morals, and at one time prime minister of his native country, the little kingdom of Lu. His memory is held in great esteem, and his writings are as sacred to th<; Chinese as the Bible is to us. He was, no doubt, a wonderfully wise and good man, but fancy Ms „ writings, composed so long ago, being the text-book for* schools ! " There are thirteen books of classics, most of them the writings of Confucius, and these are all engraved on two hundred stone tablets in the hall of the classics at Pekin. At one time a tyrannical old Emperor tried to destroy all the works of the classics, so now they are preserved on marble, as a safeguard against any such threat or determination. " You may find out the whereabouts of a school by the noise coming from it ; for all the pupils read aloud to themselves in committing their tasks to memory, and when ready, they stand with their back to the teacher and repeat their lessons. This is called ' backing the book,' and is done to prevent looking over ; though I fancy few of our boys get the chance, though they do face their masters. " If a pupil distinguishes himself at school, he goes on through the different courses of degrees. The system of their competitive literary examinations is most ela- borate, and is conducted with great exactness and precision. I do not pretend to understand it myself. EDUCATION. 129 and if I did, I stould not weary you with a full account of it. There are first examinations before the district magistrates, when two prose essays and one poem have to be written ; then there are examinations before the Prefect in prefectural cities; then before the Literary Chancellors ; at each of these certain degrees conferring MASTER AND PUPIL. certain privileges are granted. These all lead up to the great competitive examination for posts of honour and emolument, which is held every three years at Pekin. To this thousands of competitors look forward, and tens of thousands of their friends also. There are generally from six to eight thousand competitors, most of them attended by servants, or friends. As many as three or four thousand of&cials assist at the examination, so that the event is one that creates great excitement in the city. In one part of the examination hall there are 130 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. nearly ten thousand apartments, or cells, foT the separate use of the competitors. Each cell is a little higher^thah a man's head, tHree feet ■wide,;bhree and a half feet deep, having no door nor window. The cells are open to the passage, which runs the entire length of them; and this opening lets in air and light, and often wind and rain. A few boards are supplied, which the student may- adjust as seat, desk, or -bed, as he sees fit. A b6d ! you say. Yes, in this cell the competitor lives for nearly nine days. He takes in with him rice,- and coals to cook it, or whatever food he may require. The law supplies a measure of rice and half a pound of meat, but these rations are usually so bad that he generally provides his own. Six or eight hundred men are provided by Government to wait on the competitors. Men are stationed in towers, which command a view of all the cells, as sentinels to watch the competitors. The exa- mination is divided into three. parts, to each of which three days is assigned ; and the whole of which consists of composition, or writing of themes and poems. The subjects are chosen from the Chinese classics. When the competitors have finished their essays a,nd poems, they are allowed to come out of their cells, saluted by the firing of cannons and the music of bands. After being allowed a time for recess, they are locked in again for the second part, when four themes and one poem ■ have to be written ; and wl\en these are finished, and EDUCATION. ' 131 the competitors' bave been again let out, and are again locked in, five- other themes and one other poem are assigned. The examination of all these exercises occu- pies a large staff ; for they are all copied out, so that the originals, which might contain some secret mark whereby an examiner who was bribed might identify his ' friend's paper, are not submitted. " The posting up of the list with the 'names of the successful candidates, and in their order of merit, is looked forward to anxiously ; and there are men who make a . living by carrying about the names of the most successful on the roll of honour. With the names written on paper, and with a gong, these men go about to proclaim the honoured ones to their friends, or to sell the lists to any who are interested. One "of the four cardinal pleasures, is to "have one's name on the roll of honour ; and • those so distinguished are indeed honoured. A tablet is set up outside their houses, feasts are given in their honour, ceremonies are performed, and presents are made. Besides all which the highest posts under Government are open to those who have so distinguished theinselves, • Their names are in every one's mouth ; and those related to- them, or resident in their neighbourhood, come in for some of the reflected glory. " Well, after sticking to an examination like that, I think we should want some considerable amount of 132 THE LAND OF THE -PIGTAIL. recreation; and the very thought of such cramming leads one to ask, ' How do the people amuse them- selves?' In this respect, as in others, they are a peculiar people. " You will have gathered that the Chinese boy is not the finest institution in the world. I don't suppose any of them were ever taught 1:6 sing, — ' I thant the goodness and the grace That on my birth have smiled; And placed me in Confucian days, A happy Chinese child.' " I think, too, that the more we hear a^out childhood in other lands, or at all events in this, the more grate- fully shall we feel the sentiment of those good old lines of Dr. Watts. " A great ^eal more is done for children in China when they are at an age not to appreciate it. Wlien he is three days old, John Chinaman has a. kind of party to which his friends, or, rather the friends of his parents — for he is too young to have any— rbring presents of rice, cakes, fruits, and vermicelli: These are tied round him with red tape ; aitd at the end of the tape hang gold and silver coins. Sometimes toys are also fastened on. These things remain on the baby for fourteen days, to Q.ct as a kind of charm ; the gold and silver denoting wealth, and the cord an eilrblem of authority. ' Bless the baby ! ' you say ; ' how does EDUCATION. 133 he manage to turn over in bed with all these things tied to him?' I do not know, I am sure-; I am thankful to say I never had such a party in my honoiir and I don't suppose little John is any the better for it, for I dare say his respected parents eat all the presents that are eatable, and pocket the cash. I know, even in this Christian land, that presents made to youngsters do not always benefit the individuals intended. I know a lady whose very estimable grandmother had a capacious pocket, where money given to her grand- daughter was deposited ; but, unfortunately, her memory was not so ample as her pocket, and so the child, unintentionally I cheerfully admit, was kept out of her possessions. - ,' But there are more ceremonies attending little John. Outside his bedroom they hang up the pith of a rush used for candle wicks, to give him success iji life. I -don't see the connection myself, perhaps some of you da. I should have thought the emblem was intended to have more of an intellectual turn, and to have denoted that he was to be pithy in his remarks, and brilliant as farthing candles. in his intellect. Some charcoal is placed outside his door, to make him healthy. Here you are again, you knowing English, anticipated in your discoveries by centuries ! It is only within the -last few years that we have begun to take charcoal ; and charcoal biscuits are a very modern, and gritty invention. 134 THE LAND- OF THE PIGTAIL. iThen same dogs' and cats' haiirs are also placed,, to keep the animals in the neighbourhood from barking and THB ROLL OP HONOUR, cat-a-wauling, and thereby disturbing his baby-sleep. The question- we are all ready to ask is. Does it answer ? , for I am sure some of us would be glad to try the experiment in our own interest, as well, as in that of the dear children ; for sometimes English, babies are rather disturbing to others. EDUCATION. 135 ' " But there, they ?ire nothing to tho^e other midnight marauders of our peace, especially the cats. I dare say the Chinese cats, like everything else there, partake of. the sluggishness incidental to the climate, for if they were as lively 'and as musically interesting as ours, I am sure the Chinese would have some clever con- trivance by which to capture them, and put an end to their melody. " Talking of cats remind^ me of a story which has nothing to do with China, but serves to show how a fertile mind may even. make the music of cats profitable. I read of an American who made quite a good living by tying a cat to his clothes-line at night, and then going out next morning to collect all the hair-brushes, poMa- tum-pots, old boots and slippers, that had been throwji at it. '' But if there is one kind of bark which the Chinese are q,nxious to keep away from their children, there is another they bring as close as outside the bedroom door, and that is soap-bark, which they suppose will -make them neat and clean. We know the opinion of our own youilgsters as to the value of -soap, that it is a cleverly contrived torment, in the hands of relentless nurses, for making their eyes smart ; and they would rejoice if anything connected with soap neVer came nearer to them than outside their bedroom door. " But this is not all. Ou the little fellow's bedstead 136 THE LAND OF -THE PIGTAIL. they hang a pair of trousers upside down, that is, of course, with its legs in the air. This is not suggestive of the inverted position which he will be likely to take up ; for I question if a Chinese boy of ordinary capacity ever thought of standing on his head ; but it is meant ^0 denote that all the evil in the room will run down the legs of the trousers, as a sort of pantaloon-lightning- conductor, and not come near the child. This elegant charm remains in its position for fourteen days, when more presents are sent by friends, who are then invited to. a party. Before the feast they witness a very im-, portant ceremony, — the baby's head is shaved. " What a barbarous custom I " you will say. A thank-ofPering is made to the household gods, and the parents then feel they have given the little stranger a fair start in life. "There are many supers'titious rites observed for the benefit of boys that I need not trouble you with ; and there are just two customs of a social rather, than of a religious order which Mr. Doolittle records, which are • not uninteresting. A child is not allowed- to sit down until he is four months old, and then, as he has not vpry clear ideas about the matter, he is assisted by his maternal grandmother providing some soft molasses, which are placed on the chair, and to which the young- ster, adheres as tight as wax. It reminds one of the ' trick which some depraved boys play when they place EDUCATION. 137 a piece of cobbler's wax on a form, in order that some Tinsuspecting boy niiy sit upon it, and be stuck. " The other custom is observed when the baby is a year old : he is seated on a large bamboo sieve, on which are laid a set of money-scales, a pair of shears, a foot-measure, a brass mirror^ pencil, ink, paper, and- ink-sla-b, one or two books, a silver or a gold ornament, &c. The child,, in his best bib and tucker, is anxiously watched by his parents and friends, to see which article he will first touch; for that will indicate his future employment. If he take up the weights or the gold ornament, he will become a wealthy man ; if he take up the pen or ink, he will be a distinguished sclnolar. " Now, as I have told you, I find these two customs recorded in Mr. Doolittle's work, but I look in vain in that, or in any other book, for any sensible description of the games the Chinese boys indulge in ; and you may walk through their cities, and fancy the children are all kept from play as a punishment. You do not see the streets swarming with children at play, as you do here. You run no risk of being tripped up by a long skipping-rope, or of having a tip-cat in your eye, or a shuttlecock against your shirt-front, or a dirty iron hoop against' your light trousers. I cannot tell you what is the most popular game with boys, but I will say something presently about some amusements in which they,, in common with men, indulge. 138 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. " Before we pass to that, however, I must refer to the girls, about whose birth and babyhood there is little, or no fuss made. Indeed, it goes very hard with female babies altogether. When one arrives, it is a cause for sorrow rather than for joy; the unfortunate mother is often treated unkindly, as if she had the arranging of the sex of her children; but the stiU'more unfortunate child has a miserable time of it. It is considered a ■ ■great misfortune to. have a girl, and when that is thp case, even with the best disposed parents, a dismal'kind of life is in store for the unhappy daughter. But in many cases the daughter is got rid of, either by being dropped somewhere, or by being drowned in a tub, of water. In the case of the ^poor, poverty is pleaded as a complete justification ; their parents cannot afford to bring them up, and so they get rid of them. The well- to-do people sometimes are guilty of the same heartless murder, and their excuse is that they have as many children as they want. It is only the "girls who are thus cruelly murdered, becaiise boys are a more valuable article, and will pay to bring up. There are a few native foundling asylums which take care of girls who have been'cast away by their parents, and these are regu- lated with some humanity. The poor little foundlings are kept until they are old enough to mafry, when they are readily betrothed to the poorest class, as the in- tended husbands have to pay only a small sum to the EDUCATION. 139 managers of the asylum, whereas , fnarrying a girl in any other class would be a much more expensive affair. , ' , " In Canton, the Eoman Catholics have a mission which interests itself in the rescue of castaway children. The Sisters of Charity have an itifant nursery, in which, in one year, they rescued and took care of four thou- sand eight hundred and eighty-three children that had been abandoned. Every morning a bodjf of Christian Chinese women, brought up by the sisters, set out in couples, carrying basket-hods on their backs, to search the lanes and ditches for such of the cast-away infants that have any life left in them. Comment on such atrocious conduct is unnecessary. The mandarins condemn the practice in theory, but no effort is made to stop it or to punish those guilty of it.- It points out in a grim, ghastly way enough how contradictory and anomalous their customs are. We shall see presButly how remarkable the Chinese are for their filial piety, which is expected alike from daughters as well as from sons ; and here we find the parents treat their children in so opposite a manner. "I must not leave you with so unpleasant a subject, and, at the risk of being thought rather long-winded, I must refer to another matter, and that is one in which the Chinese boy resembles us. We have seen how unlike we are in most things ; you will like to know there -140 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. is one bond of brotherhood, and that is their love for sweet -things. " Now we may as well confess our weakness ; I am not ashamed to say that if I have not cut all my wisdom- teeth yet, I have not lost my sweet ones. "-This is just thfe one touch of nature that makes- all boys kin. You may see the proof of this any day in our streets. Watch that young urchin sent for a pound of treacle; how anxious he is to make the outside of the jar look clean, as he applies his finger to the sluggish avalanche that has begun to descend the side ; Ihen observe the same anxiety, to get his finger clean by , sucking it. If, however, the man at the shop has so carefully fiUed thB jar as to leave no treacle tricklings, the urcEin's finger is dipped boldly into the tempting article, and applied to the mouth ; and if the pinafore does not teU the tale^the youngster's mouth often wiU. " The barley-sugar stall is a most popular institution, and as it is to be seen in the open street, it becomes a most attractive one. The Chinese, as you have heard, are capital cooks, and also confectioners. The barley- sugar maker carries hi^ stall with . him in two parts, each of -which is suspended by a hook to one end of ,a pole, which he carries on his shoulder. One part con- tains the apparatus for the manufacture ; the other contains the confection when made. Now if a shop - where these things are arrayed in long glass jars is EDUCATION. 141 attractive to us, what should we say to an open stall where we actually saw the man- twisting and pulling the delicious stuff? it would be quite irresistible, I am sure. The man beats a small gong with a piece of brass, which is a weU-knowh sound, .and one identified as belonging to this stall ; and at the sound of it the youngsters of the neighbourhood draw near ; those who EAKLEY-SVQAK STALL. have any money to spend, to make an investment, and those who have not, to have the gratification, at least, of looking at the barley-sugar, with a hope, perhaps, that somehow or another -they may be able to pick up a stray bit. ."The boy seen approaching is one of the former class, for he holds his coin in his hand; his youthful character may be inferred from the delight manifested by his 142 THE LAND OF- THE PIGTAIL. outstretched hands, and by the little tuft of hair on his head, which is twisted and bound in soft horn, and is ornamented with crimson silk, and to which by and' by the pigtail will be attached^ But strong as his love may be for barley-sugar, there is yet a stronger feeling in his breast, and that is his love for gambling. See, there is EOY GOING TO SOITOOI, a wheel in front of the stall, and customers may buy the man's wares, or may stake the money and turn the wheel, which will decide whether they get twice as much for their money, or none at all. It is a sort of Chinese ,' double or quits : ' the only thing like it in this country is the custom adopted in London by boys, EDUCATION. 143 who, in dealing with the street mutton-pieman, toss him whether they shall have two pies, or none at all for their money. ^ . " " I suppose one of the greatest evils that could happeia to a boy is a love of gambling ; for, whether one loses or wins, one is never satisiied. The desire is to play again, either to win back what one has lost, or else to win more. The Chinese are very fond of gambling ; and though there are edicts, against it, and the man- darins profess to prohibit it, there are some quarters of the cities where every house is either a gambling- house, or devoted to the manufacture of materials for Chapter x. am usements. OW natural it seems to connect barley-sugar ■with tootkache! We left ^ our friend the barley- sugar man in the street selling his wares, and ■whatever effect they may have on his customers ■we cannot think of a mass of s^weetstuff beittg crunched-— for boys wonH suck their lollipops,, they think it is childish —■without toothache following sooner or later. With boys it is. generally later, and as no present incon- PUNOH AND JUDY. AMUSEMENTS. 145 venience follows, they do not hearken Xinto those who have cut their wisdom-teeth, and their sweet ones also. " I think this, however, just the place to notice a singular branch of Chinese industry, which, so far as I know, has seldom been referred to, except by Archdeacon Cobbold, of Ningpo, in that very readable book of his which I have before had occasion to recommend. I am glad to say I never had toothache in China. A long course of hard biscuit and salt junk keeps a man's teeth in excellent condition when at sea ; and when on land he does not lay in much of a cargo of sweetstuff. I suppose, however, that at the ports there must be such a pain as toothache, and that there must be such people as dentists, though I never heard of them. I should thinlc thattbis would be a peculiarly enticing occupa- tion for a Chinaman, so much satisfaction does he seem to take in the sufferings of others; and I should have expected to hear that he had some very ingenious and uncommon way of getting rid of the teeth ; some very successful cricket-dentistry, whereby the game would be over, and the stumps drawn in no time ; somewhat after the mode of taking a hair from one's liead without one's feeling it, so successfully performed by schoolboys,' and which consists, as you know, in giving the head a not very gentle blow at that precise moment when you pull out the hair, the little twinge accompanying it L -146 , THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. "being quite absorbed in the greater pain occasioned by tlie thump on the head. I should quite expect that the Chinese Avould make a long and painful job of it, and then, charge in proportion to the pain caused ; somewhat . after the expectation of that rustic in our own land or so^newhere else, who went to a dentist and had a tooth extracted, which came out very easiljr indeed. "When the dentist asked him for half a. crown, the man demurred at the excessiveness of the charge, and urged against it the fact that a friend of his. the other day had had one out, and was pulled all round the room, and up a pair of stairs, and down another, and out in the back yard, and was only charged a shilling. " "Well, coming back to this singular mode observed by Mr. Cobbold in the province of Ghekeang, in the north of China. There the dentists are all women, and they have a peculiar theory about toothache, and of course ^a peculiar practice to get rid of it. " They say the origin of all toothache is at the root of the tooth, and is occasioned by worms or maggots secreted there, and_that the only remedy is to get rid of these creatures. These women declare theirs to be an infallible remedy, and they get their living by practising it. I need not say that they get a good many people to believe in them, for in our own country it is astonishing how credulous folks are of the nostrums of quack doctors. But 'in China many English people have AMUSEMENTS. 147 believed in these women, and have declared that here, at all events, the Chinese were wiser than their own countryinen. In fact, a medical man out there col- lected some fine specimens of these worms, and had PEMAIE DENTIST. theni preserved in spirits of wine, and sent to America as curiosities. " It IS certain that many people troubled with tooth- ache have been cured by these women, and it is also true that they always manage to produce some worm^ from 148 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. their patients. The whole' business was very puzzling ^ to Mr. Cobbold and a friend of his, who scarcely be- lieved it, and yet there was good reason for belief. At last one day they settled the matter ; and as we are indebted to our author for the revelation, it is only fair he should tell his own story in his own words : — " One day, we were sitting in our rooms, which were opposite each other, when we heard the well-known cry of these women, ' Che gnaw gong, che gnaw gong.' I at once called to the servant, 'Ask her to come in.' The fir^t to be operated upon was one of our teachers, suffering from an inflamed e3/e/ for the same mischievous little worm causes both the teeth to ache, and the eyes to be inflamed. ' This honourable teacher,' we began, 'wishes to consult you ; we will be answerable for the reward of your skill. Look at his eye ; do~ you know what causes that inflammation ? ' ' Yes ; it is a worm.' < Can you cure him 1 ' 'I can.' The teacher sat down, ' and the woman, having taken a bright steel pin, about , the size of a- large knitting-needle, from her hair, and having borrowed an ordinary bamboo chopstick from, the cook, proceeded to her business. We watched her narrowly ; we were indeed much interested in the ex- periment, chiefly because we hoped to set at rest our controversy, and also because we had promised her the magnificent sum of threepence per head for all the live-stock she captured. She held one of her sticks. AMUSEMENTS. 149 the bamboo one, on tbe corner of the eye, and tapped it lightly with the other, changing occasionally its position. After a few seconds she called our attention with the well-known ' naw ! ' and turning back the eyelid with the steel pin, she took up triumphantly a fat specimen of the tribe, about the size and description of a cheese-maggot." "The teacher then sat down to have his teeth operated on. The woman tapped his tooth, and lo ! a worm at once appeared. Mr. Cobbold proceeds :— ' It now came to my turn ; the lady was driving a thriving trade, and an old hollow tooth was not to be resisted; so my friend now took his turn to stand and watch, while I submitted to the bamboo and steel tapping. His eyes were not better than my own ; the ' naw ! - again showed that prey had been taken. My friend, now almost in despair, and with that determination which despair alone, perhalps, impairts, armed himself with a pocket- handkerchief, and with Argus eye watched each time that either of the -sticks was withdrawn, and carefully wiped it; he did this so pertinaciously, sometimes almost pugnaciously, when the good lady attempted, after a series of taps, to introduce the instrument again without being cleansed, that no more maggots would come out, and the quack doctress drew herself up and said, quite authoritatively, 'That gentleman has no more.' The trick was thus discovered ; for the woman 150 . THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. liad cleverly contrived to slip the maggots into the eye, or tooth, at the end of the bamboo;; perhaps she secreted them under her long, finger-nails. The Eng- lishmen were further convinced that she brought the worms with her, for on counting them in the glass, which were to be paid for at threepence per Tiead, it was found that two had been dropped in that were never extracted at all.' " Having so recently spoken about the schoolroom, I ought to say something about the playground; biit alas ! I never heard of one in China. The boys are about the most sedate, old-fashioned set of youngsters you will see anywhere. There is no game which may be called a national one, at which they excel. They never heard of cricket, nor saw a football ; and to see an English game of the latter wduld convey to a Chinese boy the impression either that the fellows were , all mad, or had quarrelled and were in a dreadful rage with one another. They don't go in for exertion at all. The climate, to be sure, is not so well adapted as ours for violent exercise ; but they do not go in enthusias- tically for anything. /They do not play in sides,'but singly, each one by himself They have no games of ball, though they are fond of tossing a «mall one into the air, and then scrambling-for it when it falls- to the ground. They are expert at shuttleaock, which they keep up with their feet. But violent exercise is dis- AMUSEMENTS. 151 CQuraged by parents and leaders as undignified ; and so recreation in China takes the mildest forms. "But the Chinese have their amusements, some of them very similar to our own. " Theatres are much frequented at certain " times. There is a stage connected with most of the temples, where historical and other plays are performed: The illustration you have seen of the puppet-show resembles our Punch and Judy, without the green baize covering which serves to hide the performer in our national drama. Another kind of puppet-show consists of moveable heads being placed on little figures, which are made to dance and caper about. The man is sometimes ' , attended by a dog, or a monkey, or by both, which go through a series of performances, and sometimes serve as horses for the puppets. The Chinese af e rather hard up for street music ; the inevitable gong accompanies most exhibitions and many occupations. The idea of economizing labour, and playing two instruments' at once, as a drum and "pipes, would never enter into a Chinaman's mind; and if it did, he would probably think it undignified and wanting in resjiect to his body to turn his head so rapidly. As in trades, s6 in amuse- ments ; most of ■ them are carried on out of doors, without any tent or caravan, as we have. I think there is a mystery about a yellow caravan, shut up from sight, and revealing its marvellous contents in large lt>2 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. oil paintings on the sides that has an irresistible charm." for English- boys ; they must. pay to see the inside. Of course they will stop in the street whenever they see a number of men with white, or what were once white - perhaps, fleshings peering below a coat, and will take up positions, generally good ones,' when the little bit of icarpet is spread; but they don't give when the cap comes round. "In China there are a good 'many street performances of one sort and another, some of which are really very clever. They are very expert at balancing, not themselves, but plates, tops, and other things". A common trick is to balance a plate on a short stick,, which rests on the end of another stick at right angles with it, and which latter~"is held between the teeth. The plate is thus not only balanced, but made to spin round at a great rate. They throw up a number of rings in the air and make them describe all sorts of ingenious evolutions: Swallowing swords, which really go down the throat ; pretending to swallow metal balls which are made to reappear under the skin in different parts of the body, and many feats of jugglery such as. we are familar with, go to make up a street exhibition. Many of the tricks practised by our ^ jugglers are copied from Chinese artists, and some even bear the name of these early professors. Mr. Doolittle mentions one trick very popular with a AMUSEMENTS. 153 Chinese crowd, and one rather above most of our street performers : — ' The juggler pretends to kill his son, and plants a melon-seed. The spectators behold him apparently kill his boy with blows from a sword, THE PUPPET SHOWMAN. cutting off his legs and arms^ He then covers up the ■ piutilated parts under a blanket placed on the ground. In a short time the corpse is gone, and is nowhere to be found, having seemingly vanished from the place. 154 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. Having planted the melan-seed in a flower-pot filled ■with earth, after a while, on lifting up the blanket, there is seen a large riielon on the ground. If a spectator expresses a wish that the melon should Vanish also, the blanket is thrown over it. After waiting a little while, or again lifting the covering, the melon is nowhere in sight. Yet, after a short time spent in waiting, and on removing the blanket, there will be seen the lad who had apparently been kUled and mutilated but a little while previously, living and well, without any mark of having been injured." " The illustration shows us" a street .juggler balancing rather an tin- 'wieldy article, and drawing attention to his performance by making' a ) noise with a clapper, somewhat resembling the bones used by negro inelodists. High-class Chinese, such as mandarins, have a profound respect for forms, but Chinese jugglers and English schoolboys have no particular reverence for them. The former try to balance them, and the latter seem to have a BALANCING— A MERE FOKM. knack of overturning them. AMUSEMENTS. 155 " But even adult Chinese have some recreations, which, if not very exciting, are harmless. They are very- clever hoth in making, and in flying kites ; they seem to have quite a mild passion for this pastime. One can scarcely imagine the soher-sided men giving themselves up to what we consider the amusements of boys. But as they pursue it, it requires something more than boyish skill. The Marquis de Beauvoir, in his ' To,ur Eound the World,' thus describes the pastime : — "'The old men, those grown-up children in China, make their appearance, proudly holding the string of an imm.ense kite, which they have just sent up from the waste ground under the walls. They excel in the construction of kites with a spread of eighteen or twenty feet, representing a \v^inged dragon, eagle, or mandarin ; V in painting it, and giving it shape and motion ; in balancing it so_ admirably that it rises steadily without the thousand jerks that ours give, and remains like a star almost directly over the head of the person holding the string ; in adapting to it some almost invisible ^olian apparatus, which imitates with the most horrid noise the song of birds or the human voice ; in guiding , it through poles and streamers into the most crowded streets ; in steadying it across the ropes' of the bewil- dering little flags ; collecting the crowd, and enlivening it with sallies of wit ; and all this — a cardinal point, in their arrangements — without attaching tails to the kites.' 156 , THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. ' ' '' In- some parts of China there are festivals which have some slight religious origin, but which are really general holidays, when thirty or forty thousand people will turn out to the hills, and most of them having their kites with them. The kites assume the most curious, -_ and the most varied shapes; all kinds of quadrupeds, fishes, birds, and insects are represented. The air is filled with these paper toys, and no little skill is required to control their movements and prevent confusion of strings. Well, I say a family might spend a holiday- in a worse manner than this ; it takes them out in the country, it does -not separate them, and it is very innocent and inexpensive, and it does not lead to any drunkeiiness. Compare the conduct of such a crowd with that of a similar number of English people turned out for a day's holiday, or rather compare them wlien they are returning home. But there, it is no holiday for some Englishmen unless they can be drinking beer all day. '' In the course of the year there are sundry feasts, or festivals, which are observed, and which form occasions for some amount of rejoicing ; but the principal one is connected with the beginning of the year. " The New Year's Feast is an event of considerable importance ; it is called ' rounding the year ' and is a time for religious rites as wel,l as for social enjoyment- Household gods a,re worshipped, as well as those in the AMUSEMENTS. ' 157 temples, but the chief observances are purely social. All debts ^re paid by the end of the year, and to begin the new year, owing any man anything is considered a great disgrace. Should a debtor not have paid his debt on the last day of the year, the creditor may enter his house, break all his crockery and furniturjj, and frighteii ,his wife and children into fits. Unless the debt be beyond the possibility of payment, the unhappy debtor will make an effort to get rid of so unpleasant a New Year's guest. He has no redress from the law, and no sympathy from his neighbours. The year is ushered in with bonfires, crackers, gongs, and other -noises, and is commemorated by making presents to others, and rigging one's self up in a new suit of clothes. " During the first fortnight of the year most of the shops are shut, so that purchases have to be made before the old year closes ; but there is one class of shops which remains open, and these are the lantern- shops. " Lanterns are quite an institution in China. You have all seen some specimens of these lanterns, but you have but a poor idea of the variety of .shape, and of the ingenuity of 4iheir construction. The Chinese have no gas, and their streets are not lighted at night, as ours are. As in most other matters they have an original way of supplying their wants. They used to make their windows of oyster-shells scraped down very 15S THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. thin, SO as to admit the light; and they illuminate their paths at night by carrying their lanterns. These " lanterns are made of light bamboo framework, with a thin gauze paper pasted between the ribs. On this paper are painted all sorts of signs and devices, in all sorts of colours. At the bottom a little socket is placed for the candle ; and the wood holding the socket is so made that by turning it round, it wUl come through the opening at the bottom of the lantern, to admit of the candle beings lit. The bamboo frame is very pliable, and is drawn up after the manner of our umbrellaSj so that when not used the lantern may be folded up. "You may see a lantern-seUer wending his way through the crowded streets with a pole six or eight feet long on his shoulders, covered with lanterns. These are the ordinary night-lanterns, suph as an individual would carry with him then. The larger and more elaborate ones are sold in shops. They are used on aU sorts of occasions; a, mandarin's house would be illuminated with some splendid ones ; and so would the hall, and' the outside of a welL-to-do bridegroom's house on, the occasion of his. marriage. But for the grandest general display of these things you must wait for the celebrated 'Feast of Lanterns' on the 15th of January.- Before this event you will see children playing with their lanterns of curious and pretty shapes, some in the form of rabbits, or birds, or fish; but on the AMUSEMENTS. 159 evening of the 15th larger and more splendid ones are seen. The draught of ait caused by the heat of the lighted candles within the lantern makes a large wheel, which is fixed on a pivot, turn round rapidly. To this wheel are fastened , invisible threads of silk, which are fastened to the loose heads, arms, legs, and wings of figures of men, women, children, animals, insects, &c. " You will see heads of men nodding, and arms of ' boys lifted, and legs of animals raised, and wings of birds and insects flapping in the most ingenious manner. "The large towns on such an occasion present a very brilliant and fairy-like appearance. The streets are crowded with people of all classes, on foot and in sedan-chairs ; for every one goes out to take part in the Feast of Lanterns. What with lanterns carried in the hand, and lanterns adorning the outside of all principal houses, and crowds of, pedestrians, and lots of sedan-chair bearers, and the discharge of crackers and fireworks, and all this going on in narrow streets, you .may have some idea of the brilliancy, and noise, and confusion of the great ' Feast of Lanterns.' / " In some cities, on this occasion, a great dragon, some ten or twelve feet long, is carried along on sticks above the heads of the crowd. The dragon is made of bam- boo ribs covered with a transparent cloth ; inside are fixed candles, so that the creature is brightly illumi- 160 THE LAND OF THE PIGTAIL. nated. The head is made as hideous as possible ; and as the men carry the dragon they move about so as -to imitate the wriggling motion of a real dragon. " All classes are interested and amused at this feast ; but for the studious and literate there is special provi- sion made. Various riddles and puzzles are writtenon paper, and then pasted on the sides of lanterns, and hung up on the front of the- houses of those who'com- pose them. The literary men who make them up SEDAN-CHAIK. indicate what reward will be given to those who guess them— a small parcel of tea, or a bundle of fire-crackers, or a fan, or a pencil ; and as they are found out, the reward is given on the spot. " Well you will say, the Chinese are easily amused : AMUSEMENTS. 161 SO they are ; but after all I think their festivals will compare with ours for the behaviour and sobriety of the crowds who attend them. At aU events, we must allow that even in their simplest amusements they show an amount of skill and ingenuity that is com- mendable. ■ " I was interested in reading, the other day, in the Marquis de Eeauvoir's book, an instance of their ingenuity that I have never met with elsewhere, which will, I dare say, also interest you. He says, — ' Whilst walking amongst some fifty of these white-haired child- ren, we saw a pigeon jentangle his wing in a string and fall at our feet ; at once was explained to me a matter which, for the last three days, I had been trying to fathom. Constantly, during tlie day, I had seemed to hear sonorous waves of harmony pass thrdugh the air, and rise into the higher atmospheric regions ; whence could this harmony come ? The^ more I thought, the more convinced I became that it was a buzzing fixed in my tympanum since the bruises my head had received on the route from Tien-Tsin to Pekin. But the dying pigeon cleared up the mystery; he carried a charming -dlolian harp, light as a soap bubble, and exquisitely made. This little instrument is placed across the root of the bird's tail, and securely fixed to the two centre feathers. The pigeons, as they cleave the air, make this sound with a harsh tremolo, or a plaintive tone,/ 162 THE LAND' OF THE PIGTAIL. according to the rapidity of their flight. I thought at first that this was one of the hundred thousand absurd fancies -which are characteristic of the disciples of Con- fucius ; but I have since learnt that the object of these harps is to preserve the helpless pigeons from tHe talons of the vultures, which circle in flockS" around the battle- ments ' (vol. iii., pp. 54, 55). " You see, not only has music charms to soothp some savage breasts, but it has power also takeep off others. The small harps are quite able to keep off the big harpies.' " I might here introduce a description of those carved ivory balls which are enclosed within one another; and which have caused some speculation as to how they are made. A piece of ivory, free from cracks, is made round in the lathe, and then driUfed from the surface to the centre with holes. A piece of wood is put as a stop down one hole to -the depth of the inner baU. A chisel with its point bent at right angles, is madte to work all round these holes, one after another, until the inner ball gets loose. The chisel then is placed opposite one of the holes so as to work on the surface of the ball, and effect the carving; the marking-stop is then fixed to the depth of the second ball, a