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 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
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AMERICANS IN JAPAN 
 
 SR: 
 
 Scholarly Resources Iric. 
 
 Wilmirwton, Delaware 
 
SCHOLARLY RESOURCES, INC. 
 
 1508 Pennsylvania Avenue 
 Wilmington, Delaware 19806 
 
 Reprint edition published in 1973 
 First published in 1857 by D. Appleton & Co., 
 New York 
 
 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 72-82113 
 ISBN: 0-8420-1406-3 
 
 Manufactured in the United States of America 
 

 
THE 
 
 AMERICANS IN JAPAN 
 
 AN ABEIDGMENT 
 
 GOVERNMENT NARRATIVE OF THE 
 U. S. EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 
 
 UNDER COMMODORE PERRY. 
 
 EGBERT TOMES. 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 D. APPLETON & CO., 346 & 348 BROADWAY. 
 
 LONDON: 16 LITTLE BRITAIN. 
 185T. 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, In the year 1S56, 
 
 By D. APPLETON & CO., 
 
 In the Clerk's Ofllce of the District Court of the United States for the Southern Off 
 
 trict of New ToA, 
 
CONTEi^TS. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Motives bf Expedition— Commodore Perry sails in Steamer Mississippi— Arri- 
 Tal at Madeira— Funohal, its Streets, Houses, and Carriages— Productions of 
 Madeira— Departure from Madeira— Course and winds — Tiie Trades— Tlie 
 Harmattan — Crossing the Equator — Arrival at St. Helena — Description of 
 the Island — ^Napoleon and Longwood — Jamestown— The People— A sharp 
 Citizen— Departure from St. Helena— Arrival at Cape of Good Hope— De- 
 scription of the Cape and its Inhabitants — Productions — Constantia Vine- 
 yards and Wine— Caffres, Fingoes, and Bushmen — Hottentot War — Depar- 
 ture from Cape Town— The Passage from the Cape— The Styx spoken, . 1 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 First sight of Mauritius — Description of the Island — Eains, Storms, and Hurri- 
 canes — ^Population — Paul and Virginia — The Mississippi sails for Ceylon — 
 Arrives at Point de Galle — Description — Productions — Inhabitants — Climate 
 — Magnificent Vegetation — Wild Animals — Abundance of Elephants — Hnnc- 
 ingthem — The various Eeligions of Ceylon — Phar-Pen-Clow-Chnw Yon- 
 Hou — The Commodore makes his Acquaintance — Presents him ■", ith a Colt's 
 Eevolver — The Mississippi leaves Poinc de \ialie — Passage through the 
 Straits of Malacca — Else and fall of the Tides there — Arrival at Singapore, 34 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 Singapore — History — Inhabitants — Prosperity — Sir Stanford Baffles — A Curious 
 Mixture of Heathenism and Chi-istianity— The hospitable Whampoa — The 
 Baiah of Singapore — Importanceof Singapore— Supplies- Scarcity of Coal — 
 Wild Animals — Hungry Tigers — Human Tigers — Departure from Singapore 
 — A Fleet of Fishing Boats — Sight of Land— Arrival in Macao Eoads — The 
 Commodore proceeds to Hong-Kong— Description of Hong-Kong— Canton 
 — An account of it — The Pirates — Eeturn to Macao — Luxurious Quarters 
 - Macao, its decay— Beautiful Neighboring Country— Tanka Boat Girls- 
 Cave of Camoens — The Commodore sails for Shanghai— Arrival there — De- 
 
IV CONTENTS. 
 
 FAOE 
 
 scription of— Inhabitants— Foreign Residents — Immense Trade— Visit to tlie 
 Taou-Tai— The Commodore transfers his Flag to the Susquehanna— The 
 Squadron, how composed — Sails for Lew Chew — ^Arrival at Napha, 56 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 first View of Lew Chew— Visit from the land— Gifts of the Authorities re- 
 fused — Conference with the Mayor of Napha — The Regent of Lew Chew 
 visits the Commodore — The Commodore reveals himself — Visit to the Shore 
 —The Town of Napha— The Flight of Inhahitants— Costume of People— The 
 Women— The Neighborhood of Napha— Roads and Bridges— The Temple at 
 Tamai — Americans' reception there — An Invitation to Dinner refused — The 
 Dinner sent to the Ships — The Commodore insists upon visiting the Palace 
 — Anxiety of the Regent, 91 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Exploration of Lew Chew— Size of Great Lew Chew — Extent of Exploration — 
 Explorers setting out— Spies— The Pe-ching— Scenery— Picturesque Vil- 
 lages — Shyness of Inhabitants — Cungquas — ^Ruins of Castle — Phallic Em- 
 blems — Houses of Devil's Men — Return of Explorers — Setting out for Visit 
 to the Palace at Sheudi— The Procession — The Cagoo — Commodore's Sedan 
 —The Road— The Central Hill— Sheudi— The Gate of the City— Arrival at 
 the Palace — The Queen Mother behind the Screen — Short Ceremonies at 
 the Palace — The Regent's House — The Feast — Lew Chewan Cuisine — ^Lilli- 
 putian Bumpers of Sakee — Healths and Toasts Drank — Ichirazichi, the 
 shrewd Interpreter — Return to the Ships, 118 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Commodore sails to the Benin Islands— The Course and Winds— A Death on 
 Board — The Horrors of the old Chinaman's last moments — Effects of Opium 
 — Arrival at Port Lloyd — The Visitors from the Island — John Bravo — The 
 Benin Islands — First Discovery— Captain Beechey's Usurpation — ^Forma- 
 tion of a trovernment — Geological Formation of Bonins — Strange Rocks — 
 Natural Caves »ni '~''irnl=— Soil. Vegetation, and Productions— Fish and 
 Turtle — The Pirate — Scarcity of Birds — Domestic Animals become wild — 
 — Peel Island— Its Inhabitants— The Capabilities of the Island — The Com- 
 modore makes provision for Future Wants— Passage back to Lew Chew — 
 Arrival at Napha— Deposition of Regent— Supposed to have committed 
 Suicide— The Hari-Kari — The new Regent— Feast to him on board the 
 Commodore's Ship— The Lew Chewans enjoy the Wines — Return of the 
 Guests to Shore 129 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 Anxiety to leave Lew Chew — Mustering of Forces for Expedition to Japan 
 
 The Squadron Sails— The Course and Winds— Oho-Sima— The Fourth of 
 July— First Sight of Japanese Coast— The Promontory of Idzu— Entrance 
 to the Bay of Tedo— The Bold Shores— Fleet of Japanese Boats— Mount 
 
CONTENTS. V 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Fuzl— Anchorage of Squsidron in tlie bight of Uraga — A Japanese Boat 
 comes alongside — Its build — Crew — First Visit of Japanese Functionaries— 
 The Japanese Interpreter speaks Dutch — The Seclusion of the Commodore 
 — The Squadron ordered to go to Nagasaki — Commodore refuses — Visit of 
 Governor of TJraga — Ilis Gigantic Card and Name— Kayamon Tezaimon — 
 His Dress — Conference — Insists upon the Squadron going to Nagasaki^ 
 The Commodore reiterates his Kesoluto Eefusal— Survey of the Bay— Op- 
 position to Surveyors — The Surveyors frighten away the Japanese — Pre- 
 paration on board the Steamers for the emergency of a Fight — The Japan- 
 ese Forts and Soldiers look Threatening — Long Conferences — A Day ap- 
 pointed at last for an Interview — Gorihama selected — Preparations for 
 Interview — Landing of Commodore — Imposing Escort of Marines and Sail- 
 ors — The Golden Box with the Documents — Eeceptiou Ashore — The Hall 
 of Eeceptiou — Toda-Idzu-no-Kami and Ido-Iwami-uo-Kami, the two Impe- 
 rial Commissioners — The Delivery of the President's Letter — Eeturn to the 
 Ships — Visit of the Japanese Functionaries — Their Intelligent Curiosity — 
 The Commodore transfers his Flag to the Mississippi — Sails up the Bay — 
 View of Tedo — Exchange of small Presents — The Farewell Visit of Tezai- 
 mon and Tatsnoske — Their grief at Parting — Consolation in "Wine — Depart- 
 ure of Squadron — Eesults of first Visit to Japan, 148 
 
 CHAPTEE VIIL 
 
 Leaving the Shores of Japan — Excited Curiosity of the People — The Islands 
 off the Bay of Tedo — ^Naming them after the Ships — A Storm — Arrival at 
 Lew Chew — Every thing had gone well during the Commodore's absence 
 — Eeuewal of Negotiations with Authorities of Lew Chew — A Bazaar— De- 
 parture from Lew Chew— Meeting the Vandalia — Arrival at Hong-Kong — 
 The Powhattan absent— Eeturn of Powhattan— Eefltment of Ships— The 
 Commodore establishes himself at Macao— The Hospital— Sickness— The 
 Unhealthfulness of Macao — Healthfulness of Canton— The Causes— The Chi- 
 nese great Gormandizers — Chinese Servants — Laborers' Wages— Male Dress- 
 makers, Ironers, and "Washers— The Short Feet— A Chinese Foot unban- 
 daged— The Beggars, their Guilds and Pubhc Institutions— Honesty Eo be 
 bought — The Higher Classes— Suspicious Movements of tif. iTreneh and 
 Exissians — The Commodore determines to pat to tjea — The Squadron sails 
 to Lew Chew on Second Visit to Japan 170 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Change In Conduct of the Lew Chewans— Second Visit to the Palace— Exchanges 
 of Coin— No Coins in Lew Chew— Exploration of the Island— Coal found- 
 Geological Formation— Soil— Climate— Distribution of Land— Agriculture- 
 Cultivation of Eice— Various Productions— Flora— Agricultural Machinery 
 — Sugar Mills— Population of Lew Chew— Similarity between Lew Chewans 
 and Japanese— Affinity of Language— Physical Characteristics— Dress- 
 Women — Mamage— Divorce— Manners— Occupations— Arts — Literature— 
 Cookery— Amusements— War — Government — Eeligion — Burials — Tho 
 Commodore's Purposes effected— Despatch of a part of the Squadron to 
 Japan— The Commodore follows, ISO 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Arriyal off the Mouth of the Bay of Tedo— Standing up the Bay— The Wintry 
 Aspect of the Land — Ships Ashore — Relief — Honesty of the Japanese — The 
 American Anchorage — "Wintry Aspect of the Bay — A Visit from the Japan- 
 ese Officials — The Commodore urged to return to Uraga — Eefasal — Eeport 
 of the Death of the Emperor of Japan — Repeated Yisits of Japanese Oifi- 
 cials — The Commodore persists in his refusal to go to Uraga — Interview of 
 Captain Adams with the Imperial Commissioner — A Visit from Tezaimon 
 — Cause of his long absence explained — Sam Patch's Letter — Tokuhama 
 appointed for the Conference— The Landing — Commissioners described — 
 Answer to President's Letter delivered — The Treaty signed — Interchange 
 of Presents— A Substantial Gift— The Wrestlers— The Eailroad and Tele- 
 graph — The Delight of the Japanese, 215 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Celebration in honor of the Treaty — The American Feast — Splendid Prepara- 
 tions — The Conviviality of the Japanese Guests — The Jovial Mimi^Saki — 
 The Party on Deck — Carrying away Remnants of the Feast — The Negro 
 Minstrels in Japan — The Japanese Feast— Spreading of the Banquet — Soup, 
 Soup, Soup — The Japanese Talleyrand— The Commodore insists upon the 
 Privilege of going Ashore — The Curiosity of Japanese — More Inquisitive 
 than Communicative — The Common People Sociably Disposed — The Scru- 
 tiny of the Spies — An Enterprising Chaplain — His Adventures — Graceful 
 Charity of Japanese Officials — Sociability of Japanese- — Women respected 
 — Tea Parties and Gossip — The Commodore's walk Ashore— Visit to a town 
 Official— His Wife and Family- Black Teeth of the Women— The old Lady 
 and Baby of the House — Return of the Commodore — Busy Population — 
 Dress — ^Death of a Marine — Burial Ashore — The Buddhist Priest— The Com- 
 modore determines to have a Glance at the Capital — Fright of Japanese 
 Officials — ^Departure of the Commodore for Simoda, 241 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 BImoda— Its Position— '^h? fown, how built and laid out— Advanced Civili- 
 zation—Shops and Dwelling Houses— The Exterior— Internal Arrange- 
 ments-Lodging Houses — Announcement of Arrivals -Number of Houses 
 and Population— Disproportion of Officials and Dignitaries — Immoral Prac- 
 tice of Simodans — Diet of People — Cultivation of Rice and Grain — The 
 Buddhist Temples — The Sculpture and Paintings — The Devil's Charity 
 Boxes — Grave-yards — Tombs and Epitaphs — The Eio-zen-shi— The Mias — 
 The godlike Hashiman— The small Shrines — The Mariners' Temple — The 
 Support of the Church— Neighborhood of Simoda — Its Beauty and Cultiva- 
 tion — River Hongo — Japanese Eioe-oleaner— Climate and Health of Simoda 
 — The new Local Government, 264 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 The Officers fteqnent the Shore — The Interference of the Japanese — The An- 
 
COKTENTS. Vll 
 
 thorities rebuked by the Commodore — The Apology of the Japanese — A 
 Strange Encounter — A Couple of Japanese Travellers - Their Visit to the 
 Ships^Their account of themselyes — Their boat adrift — Their Desire to 
 Visit America — The two Japanese caught — Caged — Their Stoicism in 
 Prison— Petition to the Commodore— The Supposed Fate of the "two 
 Scholars from Tedo" — Trouble again with the Authorities — Arrival of 
 Macedonian — A Death on board Ship — Trouble again with the Authorities 
 ■^An Apology insisted upon and given— Subsequent friendly Intercourse 
 — ^Departure from Simoda — Passage to Hakodadi — Arrival in the Bay of 
 Hakodadi— The Strait of Sangar— The Bay of Hakodadi, .... 289 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Hakodadi — The Harbor and Fisheries — The Position of the Town — Its Bean- 
 ties — The Houses — Precautions against Fire — Fire-engines — "Wards and 
 Aldermen— Stillness of Town^— Kagoes and Horsemen — Interior and Furni- 
 ture of Houses — How the People sleep and eat — Tea and Sakee — Fish, Fish, 
 and Fish — The better Houses — Their Adornments — The Buddhist Temples 
 — The Shiogen-Zhi — Grave-yards — The Praying Post — Inscriptions — Me- 
 chanical Devotion — The Sintoo Temples — ^Musics! Instruments of Worship 
 — Eoadside Idols — Forts and Military Defences— Neighborhood of Hakodadi 
 — Occupations of People— Junk Building — Navigation Laws — Japanese 
 Charts — Workers in Metal — Jewellers and Blacksmiths— Cabinet Ware — 
 Silks and Brocades — Fine Arts in Japan — Knowledge of Perspective — Greek 
 Art in Japan — Architecture — Literature — The Japanese great Beadera — 
 Printing and Book-making — Eeligion — Toleration of American Worship — 
 Arrival of a Japanese Functionary, 814 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A Japanese Document — Farewell Visit — Departure frem Hakodadi — Volcano 
 of Oho-Sima — Arrival at Simoda — Arrival of the Commissioners — Confer- 
 ence — Question of Boundary— The Agreement— Supply of Japanese Coal — 
 Sharp Dealing — Complaints and Apologies — A Stone for the Washington 
 Monument- Two Japanese Dogs— Sam Patch Demanded- Refused by 
 the Commodore— Sam Patch's History — Dan Ketch and his History — The 
 Commodore transfers his Flag — Prepares to Depart — Closing Settlements 
 with the Authorities at Simoda— Interesting Conversation with Yenoske 
 — Crucifixion and Hari-Kari — Port Regulations— Departure of the Squadron 
 from Simoda— The First Visit of Christians to Oho-Sima — Arrival at Napha 
 — A Serious Occurrence — Investigation — A Lew Chewan Court and Trial — 
 Verdict and Punishment— Treaty with Lew Chew— Departure from Napha 
 — Arrival at Hong-Kong— The Commodore returns Home— Hauls down 
 his Flag, 840 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Object of a Closing Chapter— The Voyage of the Southampton to Volcano Bay 
 — Detention fi-om Fog— Sight of the Coast— Entrance to the Bay— Olason 
 
VIU CONTENTS. 
 
 PASS 
 Island — The Ainos — The Japanese Dignitary— Short Commons — The Ainos 
 Bescribed — Hairy Kuriles — Three Yolcanoes in Eruption — Visit to Olason 
 Island — Japanese Regard for American Dead — Yoyage of Macedonian and 
 Supply to Formosa— Survey of Coast — Contradictory Account of Ship- 
 wrecked Americans — Euse of the Mandarin of Kelung — Abundance of 
 Coal— The Supply takes in a Load — The Macedonian sails for Manilla — 
 Typhoons and Marino Volcanoes — The Sil-li-ba-boos — Their strange Ad- 
 ventures and Destination — Voyage of Commander Adams — Proceeds to the 
 United States with the Treaty — Eeturns to Japan with its Eatiflcation — 
 Startling Changes — Terrible Earthquake— Exchange of Eatiflcation — Cour- 
 teay of Authorities, 862 
 
EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 OHAPTEE I. 
 
 The acquisition of California brouglit the United. 
 States closer to Asia. This nearer approach naturally 
 suggested the advantage of cultivating a more inti- 
 mate intercourse with Eastern nations. Among these 
 was Japan, a country which, by the strange policy of 
 its people, had been excluded for centuries from rela- 
 tionship with the rest of the world. 
 
 Japan not only ofi'ered in its natural resources and 
 the skilful industry of its inhabitants, which had been 
 so highly extolled by travellers, an attraction to the 
 commercial enterprise of the United States, but in its 
 peculiar isolation a provocative of the proverbial in- 
 quisitiveness of Americans. Apart, too, from the 
 interest which attached to Japan on its own account, 
 attention was fixed upon that country in consequence 
 of its lying directly in the course from California to 
 China, and its reputed possession of coal, upon which 
 the development of our intercourse with the Chinese 
 and other Eastern nations, by means of steam-navi- 
 gation, depended. 
 
 The obvious advantages of establishing friendly 
 1 
 
5s EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 relations "with the Japanese became naturally a sub- 
 ject of reflection and discussion with many. Among 
 these, Commodore Perry was early distinguished for 
 the warmth of his interest in the question of opening 
 Japan to commercial intercourse ; and to him is due 
 the credit of having proposed to the government the 
 expedition, as to him belongs the honor of the successful 
 result, which it is the purpose of this book to narrate. 
 
 Commodore Perry's proposition having been favor- 
 ably received by the United States government, it was 
 determined that a squadron should be despatched 
 under his command, on the peaceful mission of en- 
 deavoring to open a friendly commercial intercourse 
 with the Japanese. Great interest was evinced on 
 the part of those in authority in the proposed expe- 
 dition, and orders were issued in regard to the num- 
 ber of vessels and their equipment, on a scale of lib- 
 erality proportionate to the object in view. Twelve 
 vessels were selected and ordered to be fitted for sea 
 without delay. But though the intention of the Gov- 
 ernment was magnificent and the orders prompt, the 
 execution lingered, and the result was comparatively 
 humble. After a delay of nearly twelve months. Com- 
 modore Perry finally sailed from IsTorfolk on the 24:th 
 of November, 1842, with a single vessel, the steamer 
 Mississippi.* 
 
 On leaving the capes of the Chesapeake, the wind 
 blew strong from the southward for ten day&, when 
 it changed to IST. IST. E., making a heavy wallowing 
 sea, and finally hauled to the westward, blowing 
 
 * Other vessels, however, were to be sent out, and some already on 
 the East India Station -were to join the Expedition. 
 
ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA. 3 
 
 with great violence. The Mississippi, however, proved 
 herself an excellent sea-boat, and succeeded in aver- 
 aging more than seven knots during the whole pas- 
 sage, notwithstanding that she was unusually deep in 
 the water, and that eight only of the twelve furnaces 
 were in use, with a small daily consumption of Cum- 
 berland coal amounting to twenty-six tons. After 
 crossing the Gulf Stream a south-western current of 
 about a knot an hour was observed, and this continued 
 until the steamer was within a thousand miles of Ma- 
 deira, when it ceased entirely. 
 
 During the evening of December 11th, seventeen 
 days after leaving Norfolk, land was made. This 
 was Point Atristow, the northern extremity of the 
 island of Madeira, and as the steamer approached 
 and ran along the coast there was an interesting view 
 of the country. The mountain tops rose boldly to the 
 clouds, while down their irregular sides torrents of 
 water poured headlong into the sea. In picturesque 
 contrast with these grander features, were the shel- 
 tered nooks at the bottom of the ravines, which 
 opened to small bays, where could be seen groups of 
 villages and fleets of small coasting vessels, employed 
 in transporting the produce of the country to the ship- 
 ping port of Funchal. 
 
 The Mississippi did not come to anchor until the 
 evening of the 12th, when she brought up in thirty- 
 three fathoms of water. Funchal, which is the chief 
 port of Madeira, lies on the southern side of the island, 
 and has only an open, roadstead. The anchorage 
 here is rocky and uneven, and exceedingly unsafe in 
 the winter season, so that vessels, when expecting a 
 
4 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 gale from S. E, around to W. S, "W., generally put to 
 sea and remain out until fine weather. 
 
 The town of Funchal is situated upon a mountainous 
 acclivity, and consists principally of a wide avenue 
 extending along the sea-shore. From this main street 
 numerous smaller ones stretch transversely and pass 
 for some distance up the slope of the hill. The popu- 
 lation of Funchal amounts to about twenty thou- 
 sand people, with whom there is always a large mix- 
 ture of foreigners. The acknowledged healthfulness 
 of the climate has made it a great resort for invalids, 
 the greater portion of whom are English. 
 
 As the streets of the city are paved in such a manner 
 as to forbid the use of wheel carriages, sedan chairs 
 and hammocks were until very lately used, not only by 
 invalids, but by all others. A substitute is however 
 now adopted, which consists of the ordinary sledge 
 
 Carriage on Sled. 
 
PEODTICTS OF MADEIEA. 5 
 
 used for conveying casks of wine and other heavy 
 articles, surmounted by a gaily decked carriage-body 
 and drawn by a yoke of oxen. This is now consid- 
 ered the fashionable eqiiipage, and the Commodore, 
 accompanied by his flag captain and his aid, made 
 all his official visits in such a one. There are stands 
 in the streets, as for the cabs and hackney-coaches 
 with us, where these vehicles may be found with the 
 oxen yoked and every thing in readiness for a drive. 
 
 Tlie ox-carriage is by no means, however, the only 
 fashionable mode of conveyance. Horseback riding 
 is also in favor, and particularly with the ladies, who 
 frequently present themselves, unattended either by a 
 cavalier or a groom, but by a footman, who, keeping 
 pace on foot with the easy gait of the horse, brushes 
 away the flies and otherwise devotes himself to the ser- 
 vice of his mistress. For inland travelling the sure- 
 footed ass is much used, and is undoubtedly the best 
 adapted for the rough and irregular mountainous roads 
 of the country. 
 
 Wine is the chief product of Madeira. "When the 
 island was however first settled by the Portuguese, 
 sugar was cultivated, but this was discontinued after 
 the islands of the "West Indies were brought under 
 culture, and the attention of the agriculturist was con- 
 centrated upon the production of wine. The export of 
 this has been large, and principally to England. The 
 amount has been estimated as high as £500,000 per 
 annum. 
 
 The Mississippi, having taken on board nearly five 
 hundred tons of coal, ten thousand gallons of water, 
 and other necessary stores, weighed anchor on the 
 
6 EXPEDITION TO JAFJJf. 
 
 eyening of "Wednesday, December 15th, and pro- 
 ceeded to sea, under steam, shaping her course to 
 pass to the westward of Palma, one of the Canaries. 
 This island was made at daylight on the morning of 
 the 17th of December, and after reaching the lee of 
 Hierro or Ferro, the south-westernmost of the group, 
 the paddle-boards on each side of the vessel were re- 
 moved, the fires extinguished, and the steamer left 
 entirely dependent on her sails. 
 
 So thick was the atmosphere in the neighborhood 
 of the Canaries that Teneriffe was not seen at all, and 
 but an indistinct view obtained of Gomera. This was 
 the more surprising because, as Baron Humboldt has 
 remarked, although the peak of Teneriffe is seldom 
 seen at a great distance in the warm, dry months of 
 July and August, yet in January and February, when 
 the sky is slightly clouded, and immediately before 
 or after a heavy rain, it is seen at very extraordinary 
 distances. This arises from the fact that when a cer- 
 tain quantity of water is uniformly diffused through 
 the atmosphere the transparency of the latter is there- 
 by greatly increased. 
 
 Ever since the Mississippi had left !N"orfolk, an ex- 
 traordinary swell had been observed coming from the 
 north-west. This never intermitted for a moment until 
 the ship was fairly within the trades, and even then 
 its influence could be felt in the disturbance of the 
 usually regular sea produced by the periodical winds, 
 and by the production of a disagreeable cross move- 
 ment of the waves. It was difiicult to account for 
 this swell so long continued ; it was quite certain the 
 ship had experienced no violence of wind suflBicient 
 
THE TRADES. 7 
 
 to produce it, in the region which she had traversed, 
 and since the 18th (Dec.) the winds had been quite 
 moderate. It was conjectured that there must have 
 been, in the higher latitudes, a succession of north- 
 westerly gales, which had prevailed long enough to 
 set in motion an ocean wave which was never sub- 
 dued until it came in contact with the steady, though 
 more quiet, tropical swell. 
 
 This swell, too, had possibly an effect in throwing 
 farther south than usual the northern boundary of the 
 trades. From the time of removing the paddles (Dec. 
 17), to the 20th, the wind continued from the southward 
 and westward, contrary to the expectation of the Com- 
 modore, who had ordered the steamer's floats to be re- 
 moved, with the hope, as at the moment there was a 
 moderate breeze from E. S. E., that the vessel would 
 immediately have the benefit of the trade winds. He 
 was however disappointed, for it was not before three 
 days afterward, and not until the Mississippi had 
 reached latitude 25° 44' north, and longitude 20° 23' 
 west, that the ship could be considered to have fairly en- 
 tered the trades. This is a point unusually far south for 
 the northern boundary of these winds at this season, 
 for it is not to be forgotten that the northern and 
 southern boundaries of the zone of the trade winds are 
 variable. The south-east has its northern boundary 
 furthest to the north during our summer ; the north- 
 east is then weakest. In our winter this state of 
 things is exactly reversed. In our autumn the zone 
 of the trades reaches its greatest northern declination ; 
 and in our spring it is at its utmost southern limit. 
 
 'During the 21st, 22d, and 23d of December, the 
 
8 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 wind continued from the northward and eastward ; 
 about noon of the 23d, it inclined to the southward of 
 east, hauling around at night, however, more to the 
 north ; and on the 24th, when the ship was abreast 
 of Brava and Fogo, it stood at E. l!^. E. 
 
 The haze was so thick that nothing but a glimpse 
 could be obtained of Fogo. This haze is common to 
 these latitudes, and is supposed by many to be caused 
 by what is called the Harmattan. This is the name 
 given to a wind which, passing over Africa, takes up 
 in its sweep, as is believed, an impalpable dust and 
 carries it far away to the westward. Strange stories 
 are told of the effects of the Harmattan, which is said 
 to check or cure various diseases, heal up the most 
 inveterate ulcers, destroy cabinet work, break window* 
 glass, and stop the motions of a clock or a chronome- 
 ter. The effects of this wind are sufficiently remark- 
 able in reality, without the aid of imagination to 
 exaggerate them. They bear some resemblance to 
 those of the Sirocco of the African desert, and of the 
 Levanter of the Grecian Archipelago. 
 
 The Harmattan begins about the middle of De- 
 cember and continues until the latter end of March. 
 Like the Sirocco, it has been supposed to take its rise 
 in the deserts of Africa ; but unlike the Sirocco, in- 
 stead of being hot and oppressive, it is a chilling wind. 
 Its direction is always from the land, and it sometimes 
 increases to a strong breeze ; it does not, however, 
 blow steadily during its season, but frequently inter- 
 mits when land or sea breezes take its placB. 
 
 At the Cape de Verd and the Gambia, the Har- 
 mattan appears to form a junction with the north-east 
 
THE HAEMATTAN. 9 
 
 trades prevailing there at a certain season, and to 
 blow with little interruption from January until April. 
 
 It is supposed by some that this wind, in passing 
 over the deserts and lands of Africa, takes up a quan- 
 tity of sand -and dust sufficient to form a floating mass, 
 producing an atmosphere so hazy as frequently to ob- 
 scure the sun and prevent the sight of the land at the 
 distance of only five miles. At the season of the 
 Harmattan, the peculiar atmosphere which accom- 
 panies it may be always observed at the Cape de 
 Yerd islands four hundred miles from the continent, 
 and is always settling in quantities sufficient to cover 
 the sails, rigging, and deck of a ship. It is also re- 
 ported to have been met with seven hundred miles 
 further westward. 
 
 The dust of the Harmattan has been examined by 
 the microscope in the hands of the celebrated investi- 
 gator, Ehrenberg, who found that it was composed of 
 infusoria and organisms, which belong not to Africa, 
 but to the south-east trade region of South America. 
 It is therefore conjectured that the south-east trades 
 may have brought the dust, great as is the distance, 
 from South America. 
 
 As the north-east trades had become light and un- 
 steady, with occasional calms, the paddles were re- 
 placed upon the wheels, and the ship was put under 
 steam on the 29th of December. The north-east trades, 
 however, continued until the next day to 6° 8' north 
 latitude and 16° 34' west longitude. A squall then 
 coming from the eastward, the wind changed to the 
 southward and so continued, though somewhat va- 
 riable, until January 2d, 1863, in latitude 1° 4A' north 
 1* 
 
10 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJJ. 
 
 and longitude 11° 37' west, wten the south-east trade 
 was met, bringing witli it a swell whicli considerably 
 retarded the vessel's progress. When the winds were 
 light and the sea smooth, the Mississippi succeeded, 
 with the use of the two after boilers, in steaming seven 
 knots the hour, but when the south-east trades fairly 
 set in, accompanied as they were by a head sea, the 
 speed was diminished to four and a half or five knots. 
 The use of two additional boilers, however, soon 
 brought the ship up to seven, with a daily consumption 
 of twenty-six tons of coal. 
 
 The north-east trades having ceased at a point 
 much further north than usual, and the south-east 
 winds having also set in at a correspondingly early 
 period, the Commodore changed his intention of pro- 
 ceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope, and de- 
 termined to touch at St. Helena, in order to procure 
 an additional supply of coal. 
 
 On Monday, January 3d, 1853, the ship crossed 
 the equator in longitude 11° 01' west, and from that 
 time to the 7th of January, had a moderately fresh 
 breeze directly ahead. The effect of this wind was to 
 render the oflScers' quarters, and in fact all the after 
 part of the ship, very uncomfortable, as the heat and 
 smoke were driven directly aft. The breeze, though 
 directly ahead, did not lessen the speed of the vessel ; 
 for in a steamer, opposing winds do not so much affect 
 its movement as the swells which often accompany 
 them. In fact, a steamer will often go faster against 
 a moderately fresh breeze, provided the sea be smooth, 
 for the opposing wind freshens the draught of the fur- 
 naces. 
 
BT. HELENA. 11 
 
 After crossing the equator, a current of about one 
 and a half mile per hour was observed setting in the 
 direction of the wind north 30° west. These currents 
 will generally be found setting from the land in the 
 direction of the prevailing winds. There are other 
 currents, however, than the surface ones produced 
 by the winds. These are caused by a difference in 
 the specific gravity of the sea-water at various places 
 and depths. When two fluids on the same level differ 
 in density, the one will not balance the other, but 
 both must move. This motion necessarily produces a 
 current. 
 
 While passing through the equatorial latitudes, 
 the zodiacal lights were observed to glow with great 
 brilliancy, and their phenomena were studiously noted 
 for future investigation. 
 
 At noon on the 10th of January, the Mississippi 
 arrived at Jamestown, on the Island of St. Helena. 
 
 St. Helena was discovered in 1502 by the Portu- 
 guese. It was afterward taken possession of by the 
 Dutch, who, in 1651, abandoned it for the Cape of 
 Good Hope. The English East India Company then 
 became possessed of the island, and it was used as a 
 stopping place for their ships between England and In- 
 dia. The Dutch regained possession of it in 1772, but 
 it was again recovered by the East India Company 
 the following year, who held it until 1833, when 
 it was transferred to the British Crown. 
 
 In the distance, St. Helena appears like a pile of 
 barren rocks, rising from the ocean in the form of a 
 pyramid. The base of the island is basalt; and lava 
 and scoria, the results of volcanic action, are seen 
 
12 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJT. 
 
 scattered about its surface. On a nearer approach, 
 the island is found to be surrounded by ragged and 
 almost perpendicular cliffs from six to twelve hun- 
 dred feet in height. These are broken, here and 
 there, by chasms which open to the sea-shore, and 
 recede inland in the form of narrow valleys winding 
 up the table land above. In the centre of the island 
 is Diana's peak, an elevation which reaches a height 
 of 2,693 feet above the sea level. A calcareous ridge 
 runs across the island from east to west, and divides 
 it into two unequal parts, the larger and more fertile 
 part of which is on the north side, where are found 
 Jamestown, Longwood, the Briars, and the governor's 
 
 The Briera of St. Helens. 
 
 summer residence, known as the Plantation House. 
 The whole circumference of the island is about twen- 
 ty-eight miles. 
 
 Jamestown, which is the only port and town of 
 
LONGWOOD. 13 
 
 St. Helena, with the small population of twenty-five 
 hundred, lies at the opening of James' Valley towards 
 the sea. It is built on both sides of a well-paved 
 street, which runs nearly a mile up the valley. A 
 strong water battery commands the bay 
 
 Ascending James' Yalley, the traveller reaches 
 the plain or table land of Longwood, which consists 
 of fifteen hundred acres of good land, with an eleva- 
 tion of 2,000 feet above the sea, that slopes gently to- 
 wards the southeast. Though the island looks so 
 barren from the sea, yet the interior is covered with 
 a rich verdure, and is watered by numerous springs, 
 which irrigate a very fertile soil. The fruits and 
 flowers of Europe and Asia are successfully culti- 
 vated, while homed cattle, sheep and goats thrive on 
 the rich pastures. Barley, oats, Indian corn, and 
 most of the common vegetables are readily produced ; 
 and fresh beef, mutton, poultry, and abundance of 
 fish, may at all times be procured. 
 
 The climate is one of the most healthful under the 
 tropics. At Plantation House, the thermometer ranges 
 from 61° to 73° within doors, and sometimes, between 
 June and September, falls to 52° in the open air. At 
 Longwood the thermometer is generally a little lower, 
 and at Jamestown somewhat higher, than it is at Plan- 
 tation House. The summer rains fall in January or 
 February, and the winter rains in July or August. 
 
 The East India Company, while in possession of 
 St. Helena, constructed excellent roads, which are 
 kept in admirable order by the present government. 
 These are inclined planes adapted as well for wheel 
 carriages and artillery, as for horses and foot passen- 
 
14 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 gers. As tlie traveller rides on these excellent roads 
 through the island, he cannot fail to be struck with 
 the picturesque contrast between the cultivated fields, 
 kept constantly green by the rains which fall in light 
 showers from the clouds driven over the island by the 
 south-east trades, and the barren cliffs of the hills 
 which shelter the valleys. The rains, however, are 
 not always gentle showers ; for during the winter 
 months, they occasionally fall in such torrents as to 
 flood the cultivated grounds, and render the roads 
 impassable. 
 
 St. Helena has charms of natural scenery, and re- 
 sources of comfort and enjoyment, which are calcu- 
 lated to make it an agreeable residence. Associated, 
 however, as it ever will be, with the captivity of Na- 
 poleon, it must be always regarded by the world as 
 the saddest of prisons. To the conqueror of states and 
 ruler of nations, the island was but a rock in the sea, 
 and its area of twenty-five miles but the narrow space 
 of a dungeon. 
 
 The chief interest of St. Helena belongs to the 
 memory of the great captive, and the first impulse of 
 the traveller is to visit his dwelling in life, the house 
 at Longwood, as well as the tomb where his body was 
 laid in death. Longwood and its surrounding proper- 
 ty have been let by the government to a farmer, who 
 has allowed the buildings to fall to decay, and appro- 
 priated the apartments of the emperor to the stabling 
 of his cattle. The security of Isfapoleon at St. Helena 
 appears sufficiently obvious, from a view of the natu- 
 ral and artificial defences of his prison. Surroimded 
 as was the island by forts and armed cruisers, and the 
 
napoleon's prison. 35 
 
 prescribed limits by successive lines of sentinels, with 
 a regiment encamped within musket shot of the dwell- 
 ing, and every avenue to it closely guarded by pickets 
 of soldiers, and with the cliffs which bound the grounds 
 towards the sea perfectly inaccessible, it is quite clear 
 at a glance, that there was no chance of escape. "With 
 these safeguards, the whole world is now agreed, and 
 England with the rest, that that personal supervision, 
 so rudely intrusive and pertinacious, of Sir Hudson 
 Lowe, was not necessary, as it certainly was not mag- 
 nanimous. The tomb of N'apoleon has lost much of 
 its interest for the traveller, since the removal of his 
 remains to France in 1840. 
 
 The inhabitants of St. Helena seem to be indus- 
 trious ; but the general opinion of the officers of the 
 Mississippi, founded on their experience, was, that in 
 their rambles over the world, they had never met 
 with more polite and unscrupulous extortioners. It 
 is said to be the practice of the people to invite stran ■ 
 gers with great urgency and seeming hospitality to 
 their houses, and then to make them pay most un- 
 mercifully for the entertainment. This may be a 
 slander ; but an incident occurred while the Missis- 
 sippi was at Jamestown, which leaves no doubt that 
 favors are sometimes done with the expectation of re- 
 ceivins a consideration. One of the lieutenants be- 
 came thus a victim of civility. He had engaged a 
 horse at a livery stable for a ride to Longwood, which 
 he found all saddled and bridled in readiness for him, 
 as soon as he came ashore. He was about mounting, 
 when a citizen of Jamestown, whom he had casually 
 met the day before, stepped up with the most friend- 
 
16 EXPEDITION TO JAPAIT. 
 
 ly air in the world, and told him that he had a much 
 better animal in his stable, which was entirely at hia 
 service, and that he would send for it at once. The 
 lieutenant, after politely protesting against the trouble 
 he was giving his Jamestown friend, consented to 
 avail himself of his polite offer, and dismissing the 
 hired horse, with a fee to the groom, awaited the 
 arrival of the boasted steed. On its being led up, our 
 lieutenant was not very much impressed by the ex- 
 cellence of its points, but extending the principle, 
 that a gift horse was not to be looked into the mouth, 
 to an animal that was lent, he did not care to be 
 very minute in his criticism. The lieutenant accord- 
 ingly mounted and took his ride, finding, in the course 
 of it, that there was no occasion to inspect par 
 ticularly the horse's mouth ; for it was ([uite clear, 
 from any point of view, that the animal was but a 
 sorry nag, and very inferior to the hack of the livery 
 stable. The lieutenant could say nothing in favor of 
 the horse, it is true, but he could not deny the gene- 
 rosity of the owner in lending it to him, poor as it was. 
 On returning home, rather dissatisfied, it must be 
 confessed, with the nag, but very friendly disposed 
 towards its proprietor, the lieutenant sent back the 
 animal to its owner, with a profusion of thanks for his 
 politeness. 
 
 In the evening the fortunate possessor of the James- 
 town Eosinante visited the ship, and called upon his 
 friend the lieutenant. This ofiicer received him with 
 great warmth, and reiterated his thanks for the loan 
 of the horse, and pressed upon him various oflFerings 
 in the shape of bundles of cigars and bottles of wine, 
 
AN EXPENSIVE ACQUAINTANCE. 17 
 
 that he might be quits with one who was compara- 
 tively a stranger. The gifts were received in such a 
 manner that the lieutenant began to suspect that his 
 Jamestown friend was not quite satisfied, and he ac- 
 cordingly hinted that perhaps some compensation 
 might be expected for the use of the horse. The 
 Jamestown gentleinan hemmed and coughed and did 
 not offer any objection. The lieutenant was now em- 
 boldened to ask, " Will you allow' me to pay for the 
 use of your horse this morning ? " To which he re- 
 ceived the reply, " "Well, I am glad you were pleased 
 with the animal, and you need only pay me the usual 
 charge of three dollars." The amount was imme- 
 diately paid to him, when he coolly offered his ser- 
 vices for any future time that they might be required, 
 and said, with a peculiarly knowing look, " K, when 
 you again visit the island, you will place yourself un- 
 der my guidance, I will put you through all charges 
 at half price." The Jamestown gentleman now po- 
 litely taking his farewell, and wishing a good voyage 
 to all on board, passed into his boat alongside with 
 the neck of a wine-bottle protruding from one pocket 
 and a liberal supply of cigars filling out the other, the 
 offerings of his grateful friend, the lieutenant. 
 
 At the time of iNapoleon's residence, St. Helena 
 was so strongly fortified and fully garrisoned that it 
 was deemed impregnable. This was, however, pre- 
 vious to the use of armed steamers. It would seem 
 to be less protected against this new and formidable arm 
 of naval warfare. "When the island was fortified, the 
 skill of the engineer accomplished all that was requi- 
 site in the existing condition of things. The island 
 
18 EXPEDITION TO JAPAIT. 
 
 would prove, doubtless, impregnable to a force ap- 
 proaching by sailing vessels, but against the motive 
 power of steam, which acts independently of wiad 
 or tide, new provisions for defence would be probably 
 required. 
 
 The Mississippi having taken in a supply of coal, 
 water, and fresh provisions, weighed anchor on the 
 evening of the second day after her arrival (Tuesday, 
 January 11th), and took her departure from James- 
 town. After leaving St. Helena the ship was put on 
 her course for the Cape of Good Hope. The Commo- 
 dore had touched at the island from motives of pru- 
 dence only, that he might have a plentiful supply of 
 fuel. The best route for a steamer going from Ma- 
 deira to the Cape would seem to be, to steer from the 
 Cape de Yerd Islands direct towards Cape Palmas on 
 the coast of Africa, and thence to trace the shore 
 down to Good Hope. 
 
 On leaving Jamestown the steamer encountered 
 the trade-wind, deviating very little from the south- 
 east, and blowing alternately moderate and fresh. It 
 was always stronger at night, when it brought with it 
 a short head sea, which greatly retarded the progress 
 of the vessel. Additional speed might have been ob- 
 tained by an increase of steam power, but it was found 
 necessary to use the coal sparingly. 
 
 At nine in the morning (January 24), the land in 
 the neighborhood of Saldanha Bay was made, and in 
 the afternoon a view was obtained of Table Mountain. 
 In the evening of the same day the ship came to 
 anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, in 
 seven fathoms of water, but next morning moved 
 
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 19 
 
 furtlier in toward the town. The port was found 
 easy of access by following the established sailing di- 
 rections, and thus avoiding certain well-known rocks 
 and other dangers threatening the navigator. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope was first discovered by 
 Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese, in 1493. During 
 an exploration of the Atlantic coast of Africa, this 
 navigator was driven out to sea by a storm, and the 
 first land he made, after the gale was over, was Al- 
 goa Bay. He had thus doubled the Cape without his 
 knowledge. Diaz gave the name of Cabo Tormen- 
 toso, the Spanish words for the Cape of Storms, to the 
 Cape, which was afterwards changed to that of Good 
 Hope by the King of Portugal, as he rightly thought 
 the discovery promised a favorable result to the great 
 prospect entertained by the Portuguese navigators of 
 reaching India by sea. In 1497, Yasco de Gama, 
 another Portuguese sailor, doubled the Cape on his 
 voyage to the Eastern seas. 
 
 Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope forms the southern end 
 of a narrow peninsula, about thirty miles in length, 
 
20 EXPEDITION TO JAPAS.. 
 
 wMcli has the Atlantic Ocean on the west, False Bay 
 on the east, and Table Bay on the north. Cape 
 Town is situated on Table Bay, and was originally 
 foundeii by the Dutch in 1650, but fell into the hands 
 of the English in 1Y95. It was restored to its original 
 European possessors after the peace of Amiens, but 
 was finally retaken by the British in 1806, in whose 
 possession it now remains. 
 
 The town is well built with substantial houses of 
 stone and brick, and wide, regular streets. The gene- 
 ral aspect of the place, with its handsome public build- 
 ings, private residences, and park, in the neighbor- 
 hood of the government house, shaded by oaks of 
 magnificent growth, is exceedingly agreeable. 
 
 The heat, however, in consequence of the posi- 
 tion of the town, which is faced by the noonday sun 
 and walled in behind by naked mountains, is exces- 
 sive. This, added to the dust, caused those who went 
 on shore to keep much within doors, and the officers 
 accordingly found Cape Town a dull and stupid place. 
 The streets are unpaved, so that when the south-east 
 gales which prevail in midsummer blow, the dust is 
 raised in clouds, and deposited in drifts of sand along 
 the sidewalks several inches in depth. This keeps 
 the street-sweepers constantly busy, who may be seen 
 continually at work, collecting the sand together in 
 heaps to be carried away by the dirt-carts. So uni- 
 versal is this nuisance felt to be, that the male as well 
 as the female inhabitants of all classes are in the habit 
 of wearing veils attached to their hats. 
 
 The south-eastern gales, which prove such an an- 
 noyance in raising the dust, make their approach by 
 
THEIVma TOWN. 21 
 
 the appearance of a dense white cloud, which settles 
 upon the summit of Table Mountain, therefore called 
 the table-cloth, and remains there until the winds sub- 
 side. These blow at times with great violence, sweep- 
 ing along the land east of Table Mountain. If it 
 were not for the perfect smoothness of the water in 
 the bay, vessels would not be able to hold to their 
 anchors during these south-easterly gales, two of 
 which were experienced in the course of a week 
 while the Mississippi was lying off Cape'Town. Such 
 is the severity of these winds, that all business in the 
 harbor is suspended during their height. 
 
 The town seemed to be in a highly prosperous con- 
 dition, as business of all kinds looked flourishing, and 
 there was every indication of wealth on the part of 
 the inhabitants, particularly the government officials. 
 Handsome equipages are constantly seen in the 
 streets, and even the lowest classes of the people are 
 hardly known to suffer from want. The high rents 
 in the town would seem to prove the prosperous con- 
 dition of trade. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope is of great commercial 
 importance to Great Britain as a convenient rendez- 
 vous for her cruisers stationed in the neighborhood, 
 and as a stopping-place for vessels bound to and from 
 the Indian Ocean. Excellent water, fresh provisions, 
 fruit, and other necessaries can be obtained in any 
 quantity and at reasonable prices. "Wood, however, 
 is scarce, but almost every other article usually needed 
 by vessels may be procured from the numerous weU 
 stocked shops and warehouses at Cape Town. 
 
 Since the abolition of slavery in the British colo- 
 
22 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 nies, the agricultural interests of the Cape have suf- 
 fered, and although the commerce of some few of the 
 ports continues thriving, the interior of the country has 
 declined in prosperity, there being' at present but few 
 examples of successful farming in consequence of the 
 scarcity of laborers. The country has also suffered 
 from the effects of the war carried on between the 
 British colonists and the Caffres, which, although it 
 has enriched the merchants and tradesmen by the 
 large expenditure of public money, has impoverished 
 the farmers by depriving them of the necessary la- 
 borers and by unsettling the general tranquillity. The 
 consequence has been that many of the farms have 
 been allowed to run to waste, and although the soil 
 is capable of producing Indian corn, wheat, barley, 
 oats, and several other descriptions of grain, the home 
 consumption of such articles is not fully supplied. 
 There are, however, some wine, hides, tallow, and 
 wool exported. 
 
 The farming is chiefly of a grazing character, and 
 vast herds of cattle, sheep, horses, and mules are 
 raised. At Cape Town horses can be bought for 
 thirty to one hundred and fifty, and mules for thirty 
 to seventy-five dollars. The cattle which are indige- 
 nous to the country somewhat resemble the buffalo 
 in appearance, and the sheep are of the broad-tailed 
 species, which are highly prized for the excellence of 
 the meat. The long teams of oxen passing in and out 
 of the city are characteristic objects at Cape Town. 
 These teams are composed often of seven, eight, or 
 even nine yoke, and are guided by two teamsters, one 
 seated in front of the wagon, not unlike what is used 
 in Pennsylvania, where he urges the animals alono- 
 
CONSTANTIA WINE. 23 
 
 by Ms voice and a long whip, while the other man 
 precedes the team, holding a halter fastened to the 
 horns of the two leaders, with which he guides them. 
 When the journey is a long one, the teamsters gen- 
 erally accompany the oxen on horseback. 
 
 The Commodore, accompanied by some of his offi- 
 cers, took occasion to visit one of the celebrated vine- 
 yards of Constantia, having provided himself with an 
 open carriage drawn by four beautiful stallions, and 
 driven four in hand by a negro boy, who proved him- 
 self a very skilful Jehu. The drive was through a pic- 
 turesque country, with pretty villas scattered about, 
 which were approached by wide avenues bordered by 
 oaks and firs. These trees are raised from the seed, 
 and are generally cultivated in the colony for fuel and 
 ornamental purposes. Substantial hedges are also 
 formed of the young oak raised from the acorn. 
 
 The Constantia vineyard was of no great extent, 
 and the culture was of a character that was somewhat 
 disappointing. The proprietor accounted for the in- 
 ferior condition of his vineyard on the score of his 
 being imable to provide himself with tlie necessary 
 number of laborers. He said, in fact, that he would 
 have been obliged to abandon the cultivation of the 
 grape altogether had he not obtained an American 
 " cultivator," that he had recently imported from the 
 United States, which simple plough, as he stated, 
 drawn by a single horse, accomplished as much as 
 the labor of fifty men according to the usual method 
 of cultivating the vine with a hoe. 
 
 The grape is grown at Constantia, as in Sicily, by 
 trimming the vine near to the ground, and not allow- 
 ing it to reach a height beyond that of a gooseberry 
 
24 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 bush. The richness of flavor of the wine, which is much 
 extolled, is supposed to be dependent upon the condi- 
 tion of the grape when it goes to the press. Although 
 it begins to ripen in the early part of February, it is 
 not gathered until the middle of March, when the 
 fruit has assumed almost the appearance of the dry 
 raisin, in which condition it is pressed. The prices 
 of Constantia wine vary from two to six dollars a gal- 
 lon, according to its quality. 
 
 Tlie population of Cape Colony, according to a 
 census taken in 1848, was 200,548. Of these, 16,287 
 whites, and 101,176 colored, make up the whole num- 
 ber of inhabitants of the various parts of the colony 
 with the exception of Cape Town, which contains a 
 mixed population of 22,543. Tliere are but few of 
 the aboriginal Hottentots of pure race to be found, as 
 their blood has been intermingled with that of the 
 Dutch, the Negro and the Malay. 
 
NATIVE TRIBES. 25 
 
 The first European discoverer of the southern pro- 
 montory of Africa found it tolerably well peopled, and 
 the natives, in some respects, in a better condition than 
 many of the more northern tribes. They were in pos- 
 session of herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and led a 
 pastoral life. They were a comparatively happy peo- 
 ple, and, being divided into tribes under a patriarchal 
 government, wandered about with their flocks and 
 herds from pasture to pasture, carrying their nuts, con- 
 structed of boughs and poles, upon the backs of oxen. 
 These tribes, however, have been mostly exterminated 
 by the cruelty of the Europeans. A wretched rem- 
 nant, however, still survive, and living as miserable 
 outcasts in the forests and the fastnesses of the desert, 
 are known as Bushmen. They are still savage in 
 character, and disgusting in their habits and persons. 
 They have received, it must be confessed, but little 
 benefit from the boasted civilization of their white 
 conquerors. " We however, as Americans," remarks 
 Commodore Perry, "have no right to rail at other 
 nations for the wrongs they have inflicted upon the 
 aborigines of countries seized upon by them ; for, 
 though hardly equal to the English in the disgusting 
 hypocrisy with which they excuse their acts, we are 
 not far behind them in the frauds and cruelties com- 
 mitted upon our native tribes." 
 
 The warlike Caffres still retain their characteristic 
 wildness, and pursue their predatory life. They are 
 in many respects superior to the ordinary African, 
 and have some of the peculiarities of the Egyptian 
 races. They are of a greater height and strength 
 than the inferior negro ; their color is lighter, and 
 2 
 
26 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJST. 
 
 though their hair is black and woolly, they have fuller 
 beards. Their noses are more prominent, but they 
 have the thick negro lip, and with the prominent 
 cheek-bone of the Hottentots, they possess the high 
 European forehead. 
 
 Caffre Chief. 
 
 The Fingoes, though traced in origin to some scat- 
 tered tribes of the Caffres, differ from them in some 
 degree, and although spirited and brave, are of a less 
 savage nature, and have the character of being a 
 comparatively good-natured people. The Fingoes, 
 
A FINGO IN PEISON. 
 
 27 
 
 like the CaflPres, are pastoral, but more given to the 
 culture of the land, in which the men engage as well 
 
 Fingo 'Woman. 
 
 as the women, although this kind of labor is confined 
 among the Caffres to the females alone. 
 
 On the return of the Commodore from Constantia, 
 he stopped to pay a visit to a captive Fingo chief and 
 his wife, whom the fortune of war had thrown into 
 the hands of the Europeans. The chief was confined 
 in a jail at a short distance from the town. The jailer 
 unhesitatingly allowed the Commodore to visit his 
 prisoner. Soyola, for that was his name, was a re- 
 markably fine-looking negro, of about twenty-five 
 
28 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 years of age. He had been accompanied to imprison- 
 ment by his favorite among his numerous wives, and 
 
 African Chief, Soyola. 
 
 his confidential lieutenant, who had also a similar 
 companion to cheer his captivity. The women were 
 no less remarkable for their good looks than their ne- 
 gro lords and masters. One of the artists of the Ex- 
 pedition was admitted to a subsequent interview with 
 the distinguished party of Fingoes, and secured like- 
 nesses of them. 
 
 The war carried on by the English with the Hot- 
 tentots and Cafii-es, which has continued so long, cost- 
 ing an immense amount of blood and treasure, is still 
 
THE HOTTENTOT WAE. 
 
 29 
 
 prolonged by the obstinacy of tbe blacks. The whole 
 frontier has already been devastated, and although 
 there is some hope of peace, no one believes that any 
 treaty that may be made will be respected by the 
 negroes longer than may suit their convenience. 
 
 Wife of Soyola. 
 
 In the last battle, at the date of the visit of Com- 
 modore Perry, in which the English forces, headed by 
 General Cathcart himself, were victorious, it was said 
 that the Caffi'e chief brought into action six thousand 
 foot and two thousand horse. These numbers are pro- 
 bably exaggerated, but it is well known that the negroes 
 have acquired a tolerable organization, and that they 
 are well supplied with arms and ammunition. They 
 
30 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 have hitherto had an abundance of provisions, ob- 
 tained from their own herds or from those stolen from 
 the whites, but report says that, owing to the careless- 
 ness and waste always attendant upon the irregular 
 warfare of savages, their supply of food is running 
 short. The English declare that the Caffres have 
 been instructed in the art of war by numerous desert- 
 ers from the British army, and by a French mission- 
 ary living among them who passed his early life in 
 the army. 
 
 The principal white inhabitants of Cape Town are 
 the government officials, army officers, merchants and 
 tradesmen. The laboring class is composed of the mixed 
 races — the Malays, Coolies, and negroes. The eman- 
 cipated negroes and their descendants are very much, 
 in character and condition, like the free blacks in the 
 United States, though by no means as intelligent and 
 good-looking. They are perfectly independent of all 
 restraint as long as they do not violate the laws. They 
 work when it suits them and at their own prices, and 
 break off abruptly from their labor if spoken to in a 
 manner which wounds in the least their sensitiveness. 
 Their ordinary charge for work is a dollar and a quar- 
 ter for a day of ten hours. 
 
 The Mississippi having taken on board a supply of 
 coal and a good quantity of sheep and bullocks, and 
 the water-tanks having been filled, left Table Bay at 
 eleven o'clock on the morning of the third of Feb- 
 ruary. On getting fairly out of the harbor, the wind 
 was fotmd to be blowing strong from the westward, 
 with a heavy swell setting in from that quarter. In 
 seven hours after leaving Table Bay the steamer was 
 
PASSAGE FROM THE CAPE. 31 
 
 off the pitch of the Cape. From thence, leaving Cape 
 Hanglip full in sight, her course was directed south- 
 east in order to reach the parallel of thirty-seven de- 
 grees of latitude. This was done to avoid the south- 
 east gales which prevail near the Cape, causing a 
 strong current to the northward and westward, and to 
 meet the Variables which are found south of the bor- 
 der of the south-east trades. 
 
 For the first three days after leaving the Cape, the 
 wind blew from the north-west to the south-west un- 
 til the steamer reached the latitude of 36° 16' S. and 
 longitude of 23° 40' E., when it changed to the north- 
 ward and eastward, rather north, and so remained to 
 the latitude of 35° 06' and longitude M° 03'. At this 
 point the wind hauled gradually to the southward, 
 allowing the course of the ship to be inclined more to 
 the north, until the south-east trades were met. The 
 Commodore fearing that the wind might back again 
 to the eastward, was careful not to make too much 
 northing, lest he might fall to the leeward of Mauritius 
 and thus lose the benefit of a fair wind. From the 
 11th to the 14th of February the wind continued from 
 the southward and eastward, and at the latter date 
 the ship reached latitude 29° 34' and longitude 55° 22', 
 from which to her arrival, on the 18th (February), 
 at the Mauritius, the wind hung to the northward 
 and eastward, the trades having entirely failed to 
 blow. 
 
 Tlie Mississippi, in doubling the Cape of Good 
 Hope in midsummer, escaped any very heavy blow, 
 although hardly a week passes without a gale from 
 some quarter. The weather throughout was generally 
 
32 'EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 fine, and nothing was observed of a remarkable char- 
 acter in a meteorological point of view. The barom- 
 eter varied from 29" 80' to 29° 95', and the thermom- 
 eter from Y4° to 84°. Tlie former instrument gave 
 due notice of all the various changes of weather, and 
 proved of great utility. There is a peculiarity in the 
 action of the barometer in the neighborhood of the Cape 
 and in that part of the route across the Indian Ocean 
 as far as the Equator. In the vicinity of the Cape 
 Bank, and in most part of the southern hemisphere, 
 the mercury rises with northerly and falls with south- 
 erly winds ; these latter, coming from a warmer atmos- 
 phere, are much rarefied, and act with diminished 
 pressure upon the barometer, which accordingly falls, 
 while the former, proceeding from the frozen regions 
 near the pole, are more dense, and cause the mercury 
 to rise. The current during the passage ran at about 
 three-quarters of a knot per hour, setting with the 
 wind. 
 
 The Mississippi spoke the English war steamer, 
 the Styx, thirteen days from Simon's Bay, bound to 
 Mauritius. She was under sail, her engine having 
 been disconnected, and the wheels with all their buck- 
 eis, allowed to revolve by the movement of the vessel 
 through the water. She made tolerable way, but 
 drifted much to leeward. The English war steam- 
 ers frequently, by a simple arrangement, disconnect 
 their engines for the purpose of saving fuel. The 
 process of connecting and disconnecting is accom- 
 plished in a few minutes. In American naval steam- 
 ers it is almost impossible to disconnect the engines, 
 and the only practicable mode of using the sails 
 
THE STYX SPOKEN. 
 
 33 
 
 exclusively is by the removal of the immersed 
 floats. Tliis requires moderate weather for its ac- 
 complishment and a delay of two hours, while double 
 that time is necessary for the readjustment of the 
 buckets. 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 The island of Mauritius was first seen from tlie 
 deck, bearing IlT. IsT. E., at half-past nine o'clock on the 
 morning of the 18th February. At noon the steamer 
 ■was nearly abreast of Cape Brabant, having passed in 
 sight of Grand Port, the scene of the memorable ac- 
 tion in August, 1810, between an English squadron 
 under the command of Captains Pyne and "Willough- 
 by, and a French force, under Commodore Duperrie. 
 In this engagement the English were worsted, having 
 lost nearly all their vessels. The battle was fought 
 within the coral shoals, which form the harbor of 
 Grand Port, the batteries on shore taking part in the 
 action, which was prolonged several days. 
 
 Early in the evening, the pilot having boarded the 
 Mississippi near the mouth of the harbor, anchored 
 and secured her for the night at the outer, which are 
 termed the Admiral's, moorings. Next morning the 
 pilot returned to the ship, bringing with him several 
 launches manned by natives of Malabar, who, with 
 the assistance of the crew of the Mississippi, com- 
 pleted her moorings, which was a process requiring a 
 gi'eat deal of time and labor. All vessels entering 
 
ARRIVAL AT MATJEITIUS. 35 
 
 the harbor of Port Louis, as it is called, are secured 
 by frigate's chains attached to mooring anchors, and 
 brought on board, one at each bow, and one at each 
 quarter. This operation is entirely under the direc- 
 tion of the pilots, who, with their launches, warps, and 
 numerous hands, are constantly busy in mooring and 
 unmooring the various vessels as they enter or leave 
 the harbor. They are moored head and stern, with 
 their bows to the south-east, the direction from which 
 the hurricanes usually come. As these generally 
 blow directly out of the harbor, they are accompanied 
 by very little sea ; such however is often the violence 
 of the wind, that the strong moorings give way, and 
 the most destructive results ensue, the vessels being 
 dashed against each other, and the shore strewn with 
 wrecks. It is rarely that these gales blow into the 
 harbor ; but when they do, a tremendous sea is 
 thi'own into the little port, and the strongest moored 
 and best found vessels can hardly escape disaster. 
 
 Mascarenhas, a Portuguese commander, discovered 
 Mauritius, with its neighboring island of Bourbon, in 
 1506, and the whole group was then named the Mas- 
 carenhas islands. Tlie Portuguese took formal pos- 
 session of them in 1545, but appear to have formed 
 no settlement. In 1598 the Dutch surveyed Mau- 
 ritius, and gave it that name in honor of Maurice, the 
 stadtholder of the JSTetherlands. They, however, did 
 not settle the island until after they had formed an 
 establishment at the Cape in 1640, and then they 
 fixed themselves on the shore at Port Grand. In 
 1Y08, from causes now unknown, they abandoned the 
 island, and from that time to 1716, its only inhabi- 
 
36 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 tants were a few negroes, brought there by the Dutch 
 as slaves, and who having escaped from their masters, 
 hid themselves in the mountain fastnesses. In ltl5, 
 the French took possession, and formed a settlement 
 at Port St. Louis, giving the island the name of the 
 Isle of France. They kept undisturbed possession 
 until 1810, when it was taken from them by the Brit- 
 ish, to whom it was ceded at the peace of 1814. 
 
 The island is of volcanic structure, and is sur- 
 rounded by a coral reef which generally runs parallel 
 to the shore at a short distance from it, and is mostly 
 lell; dry at low water. There are eleven breaks in 
 this reef, through which vessels of considerable burden 
 may pass. The interior of the island consists of a large 
 number of lofty hills, which are mostly isolated, though 
 occasionally united in small chains. The Brabant moun- 
 tains and the Bambo ridges are the most elevated, 
 which rise to three thousand feet above the sea level. 
 
THE EAINS. 37 
 
 The soil of the island is generally thin, and not 
 very productive, in consequence of the prevalent dry- 
 ness. It is true, there are rains ; and even in June, 
 July and August, the showers are frequent, but of 
 short duration. The rainy season, however, is from 
 November to March or April, when the water de- 
 scends in torrents, accompanied by heavy gusts of 
 wind, and not unfrequently with severe thunder and 
 lightning. The average fall of rain throughout the 
 year would appear, from observation, to be about 
 thirty-eight inches. The island is traversed by nu- 
 merous water-courses which diverge in all directions 
 from the centre ; these, however, as the water evapo- 
 rates rapidly in dry weather, are only running in the 
 rainy season, when they form numerous cascades and 
 cataracts. The Mauritius is subject to hurricanes as 
 violent as any in the West Indies ; but they do not 
 seem to be at all regular in their occurrence ; although 
 five years rarely elapse without their appearance. 
 
 The island was once well wooded, and some por- 
 tions of the native forest still remain. The cocoa-nut, 
 palm and sago are common, as well as the tamarind, 
 mango and bamboo. Yams, cassava, Indian com, 
 bananas, and melons are cultivated with some of our 
 vegetables, as spinach, asparagus, artichokes, cabbage, 
 and peas. Small quantities of rice and wheat are also 
 raised. Of the fruits, there are excellent mangoes, 
 shaddocks and pine-apples ; but the oranges, grapes, 
 peaches, and apples are inferior. The French intro- 
 duced the spice trees of the Indian islands; none, 
 however, succeeded, but the clove. 
 
 The chief article cultivated since the British ob- 
 
38 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 tained possession, is sugar. The sugar-cane is planted 
 in the usual manner, though the fields present one 
 peculiarity. The surface of the ground, in its origi- 
 nal state, was covered with loose rocks and stones, 
 which have been arranged in parallel ridges about 
 three or four feet apart, between which the cane is 
 planted. The planters think that these ridges are of 
 advantage, since they are believed to retard the 
 growth of weeds, shade and protect the young cane 
 from violent winds, and retain moisture about the 
 roots of the young plants. 
 
 The introduction of guano is reported to have had 
 a wonderful effect in increasing the fertility of the land. 
 In 1812, the sugar crop only amounted to 969,260 
 French pounds ; while in 1852, it was estimated at 
 140,000,000. Only about three-eighths of the island 
 are said to be under cultivation, and the attention of 
 the agriculturist is almost entirely confined to the 
 production of sugar, although the soil is adapted to 
 cotton and tobacco. 
 
 The chief labor of the island is performed by the 
 Coolies. The free negroes, since the act of the Brit- 
 ish emancipation of slavery, have been generally in- 
 disposed to work, and the planters have been forced 
 to rely on imported laborers, who are chiefly brought 
 from the coasts of Malabar. The Coolies are to be 
 seen in large numbers on the sugar plantations, 
 where they receive from two to three dollars a month, 
 ill addition to house rent and provisions. The muni- 
 cipal regulations for their protection are very strict, 
 and the laborers presume somewhat on the indul- 
 gence with which they are treated by the govern- 
 
FRENCH AND ENGLISH. 39 
 
 ment ; they are tolerated in the exercise of a much 
 larger liberty than is usually enjoyed by laboring 
 men either in England or the United States. The 
 planter, however, is acknowledged to make large pro- 
 fits from their labor. 
 
 The population of the whole island is 180,000, of 
 which nearly one hundred thousand are negroes from 
 Madagascar and the eastern coast of Africa, who were 
 once slaves. There are also a mixed throng of Ma- 
 lays, fishermen from Malabar, Lascars and Chinese. 
 The whites amount in number to only about nine or 
 ten thousand, the greater portion of which are Creoles 
 of French origin, who pertinaciously cling to their 
 native language and habits. They still regard with 
 jealousy the English, who in their turn repay them 
 with a certain degree of haughtiness and reserve. 
 
 The Commodore and his officers, however, found 
 an equally warm welcome from both English and 
 French, and M^ere entertained with the most generous 
 hospitality. The Englishman, perhaps, was a little 
 more stately in his manner, and the Frenchman a 
 little less ceremonious ; though nothing could be 
 kinder than the treatment of both. 
 
 Port Louis, the capital of the island, is situated 
 near its north-western extremity, in a small bay, 
 which is but a narrow inlet somewhat more than a 
 mile long, and about five hundi-ed yards broad. The 
 town is built at the extreme south-western corner. 
 The streets are straight and unpaved, the principal 
 one of which runs parallel to the shore of the bay. 
 The houses are of but one story, and are built chiefly 
 of wood. The inhabitants of Port Louis are, in num- 
 
40 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ber, about twenty-five to thirty thousand, of whom 
 four or five thousand are white, and the remainder 
 for the most part black. 
 
 Grand Port, on the south-eastern side of the island, 
 is tolerably capacious and is more convenient for ship- 
 ping the sugar, of which large quantities are raised in 
 the neighborhood. This port, however, has the dis- 
 advantage of an intricate entrance and an exposure to 
 the south-east, from which the hurricanes blow with 
 the greatest fury. 
 
 The popular story of Paul and Yirginia was sug- 
 gested by an occurrence on the coast of Mauritius, 
 which took place while St. Pierre, the author, was an 
 officer of the garrison. On the night of the 18 th of 
 August, 1774, the French ship St. Gevan was wrecked 
 on the north-eastern coast of the island. On board 
 the ship were two young ladies, of the names of Mallet 
 and Caillon, who were returning home, after having 
 completed their education in France. They, together 
 with most of the crew and passengers, were lost. 
 Mademoiselle Caillon was last seen upon the top- 
 gallant forecastle of the ship, by the side of a fellow- 
 passenger, Monsieur Longchamps de Montendre, who 
 was urging her to trust herself to his efi'orts to save 
 her life. For this purpose it would have been neces- 
 sary that she should have disencumbered herself of a 
 portion of her clothing, which from a sense of modesty 
 she could not be prevailed upon to do, and preferred to 
 remain on the ship. Montendre now left her, and after 
 lowering himself down the ship's side ready to throw 
 himself into the sea, paused with a thought for Made- 
 moiselle Caillon, of whom he is said to have been the 
 
PAUL AND VTRGINIA. 41 
 
 lover, and resolved to make another effort to save her. 
 He was soon again by her side earnestly entreating the 
 girl, for her own and his sake, to trust herself to his 
 care, and make with him a last effort to save their lives. 
 She, however, refused, andMontendre then determined 
 not to leave her again, and they both went down for 
 ever with the wreck. Mademoiselle Mallet, the other 
 young lady, remained on the quarter-deck with a 
 young Frenchman, Monsieur de Peramont, by her 
 side, and the two were also lost. 
 
 These incidents thus simply related in the deposi- 
 tion of one of the survivors before the authorities, are 
 said to have been the basis of St. Pierre's world-re- 
 nowned story, which the author has so heightened by 
 romance and so commended by his pathetic narrative 
 to universal sympathy, that few stories are better 
 known or more generally liked. Tlie romantic visitor 
 to the Mauritius is naturally reminded of its associa- 
 tion with the romance of Paul and Virginia, and if 
 not satisfied with a general view of the tropical scenery 
 and localities so charmingly described in that work, 
 he may be desirous, perhaps, of paying his reverence 
 to the tombs of its hero and heroine, if the matter-of- 
 fact suggestion that as they never lived they would 
 hardly have required a burial place, does not destroy 
 his illusion. An eccentric Frenchman has, in fact, in 
 order that romantic visitors might not be cheated out of 
 their sentiment, raised in his garden two monuments to 
 the memory of the fictitious Paul and Virginia. Tlie 
 original proprietor is long since dead, but his grounds, 
 some eight miles from Port Louis, are open for in- 
 spection, and the visitor can show his respect for the 
 
42 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 memory of Paul and Yirginia, and satisfy Ms senti- 
 ment by a view of their monuments, if he does not 
 object to pay the nsnal shilling for admission. -The 
 officers of the Expedition visited the tombs, and were 
 unpleasantly reminded of British dominion by the 
 offensive practice of demanding the stranger's pence 
 at every gate on English territory. They did not forget 
 that they had been victims of the same unhandsome 
 custom at the entrance to Longwood and the empty 
 tomb of ISTapoleon at St. Helena, and could not but think 
 it very dishonoring to the nation that permitted it. 
 
 So much was said at the Mauritius of the hurri- 
 canes or cyclones common to that part of the Indian 
 Ocean, that the Commodore hardly entertained the 
 hope of escaping one. These hurricanes, which so often 
 bring with them desolation and ruin to the mei'chant 
 and planter, are topics of anxious interest during the 
 usual season, from December to April, of their occur- 
 rence. The barometer is watched eagerly for the least 
 indication of their a2:)proach, and all the usual pheno- 
 mena which precede them are carefully observed. 
 There is no study to which the inhabitants of the 
 Mauritius have so thoroughly devoted themselves as 
 to the philosophy of these storms, in which they are 
 great experts. 
 
 The cyclones never extend to the northward of 
 10° or 12° south latitude in the meridian of Mauri- 
 tius. Vessels therefore leaving this island in the hur- 
 ricane season, should steer to the northward, taking 
 care to pass to the westward of the Cargados, a dan- 
 gerous group of rocks. 
 
 Having taken on board five hundred tons of coal, 
 
POINT DE GALLE. 43 
 
 a timely Bupplj of wHcli had just arrived in two sliips 
 from the United States, and the other necessary sup- 
 plies, the Mississippi left Port Louis on the morning 
 of the 28th of February. The Commodore now di- 
 rected his course for Point de Galle, having, by the 
 advice of several experienced seamen, taken the more 
 circuitous route, and passed to the westward of the 
 Oargados and between the island Galega and the 
 Laya de Mahla bank; thence, after doubling the 
 northern extremity of the bank, the ship was steered 
 to the eastward for Pona Moluque, the southernmost 
 of the Maldives. From this point the course was di- 
 rect for Point de Galle, in Ceylon, where the light 
 was made on the evening of the 10th of March, after 
 a passage of thirteen days. 
 
 The port of Point de Galle is the general rendez- 
 vous of the English mail steamers, not only of those 
 which ply to and from the Red Sea, but of those 
 which double the Cape of Good Hope, bound to India 
 or the China seas. Although large quantities of coal 
 are brought there for the service of these steamers, 
 the consumption is so great that they are loth to spare 
 any to strangers, however great their need. The Mis- 
 sissippi could only succeed in obtaining a small sup- 
 ply from the Bengal government, as the Steam I^avi- 
 gation Company had given positive orders not to give 
 a ton to any foreign vessel of war. 
 
 The town of Galle is situated upon a peninsula, 
 the inner curve of which forms the harbor. Thick 
 walls of considerable height enclose the town within 
 a space of about fifteen acres. The inhabitants are 
 thus shut up within a close fortress, from which the 
 
44 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 sea breezes are almost entirely excluded, and must 
 suffer very much from the heat, which cannot be 
 otherwise than excessive, in a latitude almost under 
 the equator. The heat, however, is not so intense as 
 on the neighboring coast of India. During the stay 
 of the Mississippi the highest range of the thermome- 
 ter (Farenheit) was 85°, and the lowest 82°. The 
 ordinary range at Point de Galle, however, is set down 
 at from 70° to 87°. 
 
 Fresh supplies of food of almost every description 
 can be readily obtained at this port ; bullocks, pigs, 
 fruit, and vegetables abound. The fish are abundant 
 and good. Wood is plentiful and tolerably good. 
 "WateT can be obtained in reasonable quantities, but 
 it is bad. 
 
 The population of the toAvn is composed of Eng- 
 lish officials and merchants, and a motley collection 
 of tradesmen and laborers, of all varieties of color, 
 from negro black to dingy brown. 
 
 Trincomalee and the sea-coast of Ceylon were 
 seized by the British in 1796, after having been 
 held successively by the Portuguese, Dutch, and 
 French, and the whole island was taken possession of 
 at the invitation of the natives, as English history re- 
 cords, by the British crown in 1815, under the sover- 
 eignty of which Ceylon still remains. 
 
 In olden time, as we learn from the authors of 
 antiquity, for the island was known to Europe so 
 early as the conquests of Alexander the Great, 
 before its occupation by Europeans, Ceylon was one 
 of the richest and most productive kingdoms of 
 the East. The natives at a very early period showed 
 
CLIMATE OF CEYLON. 45 
 
 great skill in the development of the resources of the 
 island, and increased the fertility of the soil by inge- 
 nious modes of artificial irrigation; and numerous 
 vestiges of imposing works, constructed for this pur- 
 pose, remain to this day. 
 
 The climate of Ceylon is very much influenced by 
 the monsoons. The north-east prevails from IN^ovem- 
 ber to February, and the south-west from April to 
 September ; but there are certain local causes which 
 influence these winds and modify their temperature. 
 There is a great difference between the climate of the 
 northern and southern portions of the island, and a 
 curious effect hence results ; for not seldom on one 
 side of a mountain the rain is falling abundantly, 
 while on the other it is so dry that the herbage is 
 parched and withered ; and thus, while the inhabi- 
 tants of the former are doing their utmost to protect 
 their lands from the flood, those of the latter are 
 striving to obviate the consequences of the drought, 
 by availing themselves of the scant reservoirs of wa- 
 ter which may have been left from previous rains. 
 
 The island is comparatively healthful, as is indi- 
 cated by the rate of mortality, which, being less than 
 three per cent., shows a remarkable salubrity for an 
 eastern country. 
 
 Ceylon did not appear as flourishing a colony 
 as the Mauritius, though it possesses superior geo- 
 graphical advantages. Lying, as a sort of outpost 
 to the principal possessions of the English in the east, 
 and offering, in its port of Galle, a point for the dis- 
 tribution of intelligence throughout India and China, 
 it is much resorted to. 
 
46 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 The exports are limited in comparison with the 
 acknowledged fertility of the island, to the productive 
 power of which there would hardly seem to be any 
 limit. Labor may be obtained for twelve cents a 
 day, and yet the agricultural interests are not as 
 promising, as, under such favorable circumstances, 
 they should be. The natives, too, are said not to be 
 wanting in industry, but their needs are so few, living, 
 as they do, upon fish, rice, and cocoa-nuts, that they 
 are never forced by necessity to labor hard for their 
 subsistence. 
 
 Of the productions of the island, the cocoa-nut is 
 probably the most valuable to the natives. Every 
 where in Ceylon, as far as the eye can reach, exten- 
 sive plantations of this tree can be seen, and the nu- 
 merous roads throughout the island are bordered with 
 it. The weary and heated traveller finds not only 
 protection from the sun in its shade, but refreshment 
 from the milk of the fruit, which is both agi-eeable to 
 the taste and wholesome. The cocoa-nut palm has a 
 great variety of uses. The green fruit, with its deli- 
 cate albuminous meat and its refreshing milk, is a 
 favorite article of food. When ripe, the kernel of the 
 nut is dried, forming what the natives term copperal, 
 from which an oil of great value is expressed, while 
 the residuum forms an excellent oil-cake for the fat- 
 tening of animals. Even the husk of the nut is use- 
 ful ; its fibres are wrought into the coir rope, of which 
 large quantities are annually exported, and the shells 
 are manufactured into various domestic utensils. 
 From the sap of the tree a drink is obtained which is 
 called " toddy," and made into arrack by distillation. 
 
MAGNIFICENT VEGETATION. 47 
 
 The leaves afford a good material for the thatching 
 of the native huts, and are, moreover, given as food 
 to elephants. The Palmyra palm, which also abounds 
 in the island, shares with the cocoa-nut tree in many 
 of its advantages. 
 
 The other staples of Ceylon are cinnamon, coffee, 
 sugar, rice, arica nut, precious stones, plumbago 
 (probably the best in the world), and other vegetable 
 and mineral productions. The pearl fisheries, for 
 which the island was once famous, have very much 
 diminished in their yield. The natives account for 
 the diminution by declaring that the pearl-oyster has 
 the power of locomotion, and has shifted its former 
 quarters to some new ground not yet discovered. 
 The scarcity is probably owing to the fact that the 
 pearls have been disturbed before they have reached 
 their full development, which is said to require a pe- 
 riod of seven years. 
 
 Ceylon abounds in a rich vegetation, and many 
 trees of great utility, among which, in addition to the 
 cocoa-nut and Palmyra palm, there is the kettal tree, 
 from the sap of which is produced a coarse sugar, and 
 from its fruit, when dried and reduced to powder, a 
 substitute for rice flour. The talipot, with its im- 
 mense foliage, is one of the wonders of the island ; a 
 single leaf of this tree is sufficient to cover beneatb its 
 shade several persons, and it supplies, when softened 
 by boiling, a substitute for paper, upon which the na- 
 tives are in the habit of writing, and find it a most dur- 
 able material. The cinnamon, with its beautiful white 
 blossom and its red tipped leaves, and other odorifer- 
 ous trees, are among the native products of Ceylon ; 
 
48 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 hut the stories of the fragrance of the aroma exhaled 
 from these trees and the plants, which voyagers have 
 described as sensible at a distance from the land, 
 are gross exaggerations. ITo fragrance was observed 
 equal to that of the magnolia or of the delightful per- 
 fume of the newly-mown grass of our own country, 
 or in any degree approaching the delicious odor of 
 the heliotrope and geranium hedges of Madeira. The 
 cultivated flowers that were seen at Ceylon and at 
 Mauritius were, in fact, remarkable for their want of 
 fragrance. Eich woods of various kinds, as the rose, 
 the ebony, the satin, and lime, grow in abundance on 
 the island, and are used for many purposes of utility 
 and ornament. Marco Polo, the great traveller, vis- 
 ited Ceylon, of which he has left a glowing descrip- 
 tion, having been so much struck with its beauty and 
 richness that, in his enthusiasm, he has termed it the 
 finest island in the world. 
 
 Within the forests and in the jungles of Ceylon 
 are found a great yariety of wild animals ; the ele- 
 phant, the hyena, tiger-cat, the bear, the deer, and 
 the monkey, are among the most abundant. Tlie 
 number of elephants is incredibly great, and, issuing 
 in troops from their lairs, they come crushing down 
 the cultivated fields and plantations, and devouring 
 the crops, with great loss to the proprietors. They 
 are found in all the uncultivated parts of the island, 
 but their favorite haunts are near the farms, to which 
 they prove so destructive that the colonial govern- 
 ment pays a reward of 7s. 6d. (about $1 85) for every 
 tail of the animal which is brought to the authorities. 
 Mr. Talbot, the government agent at GaUe, stated 
 
ABUNDAITCE OF ELEPHANTS. 49 
 
 that Lie had paid during the preceding year two hun- 
 dred pounds sterling for tails, which would give six- 
 hundred as the number of elephants destroyed. 
 
 An army officer, as was stated to the Commodore, 
 actually killed, during his residence on the island, no 
 less than six hundred of these gigantic animals. 
 Within a few months of the arrival of the Mississippi, 
 two officers of the garrison destroyed no less than 
 forty elephants in the course of a sporting visit of 
 six weeks to the jungle. They are ordinarily shot 
 with a rifle ; the sportsman approaches his game in 
 front, or perhaps, as the sailors would say, on the 
 quarter, that he may aim at either of the only two 
 vital parts upon which a rifle ball will have any 
 effect, one being directly in the forehead, through 
 which the brain is penetrated, and the other behind 
 the ear. If the hunter chance to come up to his ele- 
 phant in the rear, he raises a shout, by which the ani- 
 mal is attracted, and, turning its head, or throwing 
 forward its ears, exposes the vital spot, at which his 
 ruthless enemy aims the deadly ball, and brings down 
 his huge victim. The elephants of Ceylon are not so 
 large as those of other parts of India, and but a small 
 proportion of them have tusks. 
 
 Of serpents, there are but twenty species, four 
 only of which are venomous, the cobra and tic pro- 
 lango being the most deadly. The latter is said to 
 be endowed with great cunning, and to lie in wait 
 for the purpose of attacking the passing traveller. 
 The stories which are told of the anaconda, boa con- 
 strictor or python, seizing upon cattle and horses, and 
 even horsemen, must be taken as fabulous. There is, 
 3 
 
50 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 however, a species of boa peculiar to tlie island, 
 whicli is capable of swallowing a deer whole, and 
 after it has indulged in venison to that degree, and 
 become surfeited with so substantial a meal, it falls 
 readily a prey to the captor. This is believed to be 
 the extent of the powers of deglutition of the Cey- 
 lon boas ; those enormous serpents, which are said to 
 swallow an entire ox, horns and all, being unkaown in 
 that region. 
 
 The population of Ceylon is estimated at about 
 1,442,062, of whom 8,275 are whites, 1,413,486 colored 
 persons, and 20,431 aliens and resident strangers. The 
 inhabitants are composed of the natives, termed Cin- 
 galese, of a small portion of Europeans, principally 
 government officials, military officers, and merchants 
 with their families, and of negroes, Malays, and Chi- 
 nese. The Cingalese were less ugly in appearance 
 than was expected, many of the men, in fact (as for 
 the women, few were seen, and none of the better 
 class), have expressive and even handsome faces, and 
 their forms are not without symmetry. They seem 
 to be amiable in disposition, and are remarkable for 
 their effeminate habits. So similar is the costume of 
 the two sexes, that it is difficult often for the casual 
 observer to distinguish the man from the woman. 
 The males allow their hair to grow to a great length, 
 which they foster with much care, and fasten to the 
 tops of their heads with large tortoise-shell combs, 
 such as our ladies at home might not be ashamed to 
 wear. 
 
 The common dress of the better class of the Cin- 
 galese is a jacket, worn next to the skin, and from the 
 
INHABITANTS, 51 
 
 waist downward a colored petticoat, wrapped in grace- 
 ful folds round tlie limbs, and falling to the feet. The 
 head, well protected as it is with the superabundant 
 hair, is generally bare of any artificial covering. Some 
 of the common people, however, wrap a cloth turban- 
 wise around their brows, which they shift to their 
 body when mingling with the crowds, and thus eke 
 out their scanty drapery, which ordinarily consists 
 only of a petticoat. Some of the aborigines, who live 
 in a rude condition within the fastnesses of the great 
 forests, confine themselves in dress to the simple ward- 
 robe of nature. 
 
 In addition to the Cingalese, who are doubtless 
 descendants of the aborigines of the island, there are 
 the Malabars, whom tradition traces to the neighbor- 
 ing shores of India, and whose religion and social 
 characteristics would seem to connect them with that 
 country. They are Hindoos, and preserve their reli- 
 gion and system of caste, together with the costumes 
 of their original country, as well as their language, 
 somewhat modified, however, by their relation with 
 the Cingalese. The neighboring islands and con- 
 tinents supply a population of Mahommedans or 
 Moors to Ceylon, who abound in several parts of the 
 country, where in the various orders into which their 
 law of caste divides them, they carry on a prosperous 
 business as weavers, fishermen, merchants, and ba- 
 kers. They are among the most enterprising and 
 thriving of the population, and their well-known skill 
 and industry have secured them much of the com- 
 mercial wealth and infiuence of the island. 
 
 The native language of the aborigines is peculiar 
 
62 KXPEDITION TO JAPAJT. 
 
 to themsel-veSj but their writings iare in Sanscrit or 
 Pali. A provincial dialect of Portuguese is, how- 
 ever, generally spoken hj those natives who have 
 passed their lives in the European portions of the 
 island. 
 
 The Christian religion was introduced at a very- 
 early period into Ceylon. The zealous Francis Xavier, 
 the Roman Catholic missionary, however, was the 
 first, by his earnest preaching and proselyting ener- 
 gies, to establish it permanently on the island, and 
 most of that faith are, accordingly, Romanists. The 
 Church of England is, of course, sustained in accor- 
 dance with the religious opinions of the British au- 
 thorities ; and the various other Protestant churches 
 have their members among the European residents. 
 There are missionaries of various sects engaged in 
 efforts to evangelize the native heathen, but with what 
 success did not appear. Among these there are no 
 less than eleven Americans ; and the different churches 
 are represented in the proportion of thirty-four Ro- 
 manist missionaries, twenty Wesleyans, fourteen of 
 the English church, and thirteen Baptists. The pre- 
 dominant religion among the Cingalese is the Budd- 
 hist, which was at one time maintained by the British 
 government, a heathen inheritance, derived from the 
 succession to the native kings. The tooth of Buddha, 
 the relic so highly revered by his followers, was taken 
 under the especial protection of English orthodoxy, and 
 the ecclesiastical patronage of the Buddhist establish- 
 ment was exercised by England, in accordance with 
 the not very scrupulous views of political expediency. 
 The guardianship of the tooth of Buddha, and the dis- 
 
PHAE-PEN-CLOW-CHOW-YON-HON. 63 
 
 pensation of Buddhist church patronage, have been, of 
 late years, properly delegated by a Christian nation 
 to a heathen priesthood. 
 
 There are numerous Buddhist temples in Ceylon, 
 some of which present an impressive aspect ; and 
 there is one of great antiquity, and so much venerated 
 as to attract votaries from various parts of India. On 
 the arrival of the Mississippi there was a Siamese 
 sloop-of-war in the harbor, which had brought a num- 
 ber of Buddhist priests on a pilgrimage to this temple. 
 
 The Commodore was desirous of making the ac- 
 quaintance of the Siamese commander, and accordingly 
 sent his aid, one of the lieutenants, to oifer to him his 
 services and invite him on board the Mississippi. 
 Captain Mun-ClowSar-Coun, foi' that was his name, 
 seemed very well pleased at the compliment, and 
 visited, in company with two of the Buddhist priests, 
 the Commodore the next day, when he was received 
 with all the honors. He was an intelligent young 
 man, and, among his other accomplishments, had ac- 
 quired some knowledge of English. From him it was 
 learned that Prince Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon, 
 who had been so exceedingly civil to Mr. Eoberts, and 
 the officers of the Peacock, on the occasion of the 
 visit to Siam, in 1836, was the second king, as he is 
 styled, in the kingdom. The Commodore thought this 
 a good opportunity to dispose of a handsome revolver, 
 that had been intrusted to him by Mr. Colt to give, in 
 the course of his travels, as a present to some high 
 functionary. The pistol was accordingly despatched to 
 Prince Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon, under the 
 care of Captain Mun-Clow-Sar-Coun, together with a 
 
54 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 complimentary letter to Ms Koyal Higlmess, in whicli 
 that dignitary was told, that the renown which he had 
 acquired in the United States was the inducegient for 
 making him the recipient of the " trifling gift of Mr. 
 Colt." A copy of Bowditch's Navigator, and a service 
 sword were also sent for the benefit of the captain 
 himself. 
 
 The Mississippi left Galle on the morning of the 
 15th of March, and after getting clear of the harbor, 
 shaped her course for Great Nicobar Island, the south- 
 ernmost of the group of that name, with the intention 
 of passing between it and Paloway, a small island 
 or rock lying ofi" the northern extremity of Sumatra. 
 On the 20 th, Great Nicobar was made, and the pro- 
 posed course having been taken, the steamer entered 
 the Straits of Malacca, steering for the Malay shore, 
 on which side the weather is represented as being 
 more settled and the sky less obscured. 
 
 Fortunately, the weather was favorable during the 
 passage through the straits, and it was found necessary 
 to anchor once only during the night, at the entrance 
 between the North and South Sands, within sight of 
 the Aroa islands. 
 
 In the straits, the Mississippi met H. B. M. ship 
 Cleopatra, towed by a small war steamer, bound in an 
 opposite direction. The senior English ship, on coming 
 near, honored the broad pendant of the Commodore 
 with a salute ; which compliment was promptly re- 
 sponded to by an equal number of guns. 
 
 It is a fact worthy of remark, that the usual vertical 
 rise and fall of the tides in the Straits of Malacca is 
 from twelve to fourteen feet, while in other parts of the 
 
AUKIVAX, AT SINGAPORE. 
 
 65 
 
 world, in the same latitude, there is scarcely any va- 
 riation. The tides at Singapore correspond, in this 
 respect, with those in the straits. 
 
 On entering from the Straits of Malacca into what 
 is called the Straits of Singapore, the islands became 
 numerous and the passages consequently various and 
 intricate. With proper precautions, the Mississippi 
 made her way securely, and finally, on the 25th oi 
 March, came to anchor in the port of Singapore. 
 
CHAPTEK III. 
 
 NoTwrrnsTANDiNG the restricted productions of the 
 place, which could do no more than supply business 
 for the scant trade of a few vessels, Singapore has 
 been, by the liberal policy of making it a free port, 
 elevated to the imposing position of a great commer- 
 cial mart. Its trade embraces China, India, and the 
 archipelagos of the oriental seas, Australia, Europe 
 and America. 
 
 The town of Singapore is built upon an island, 
 separated from the Malay peninsula by a narrow and 
 scarcely navigable strait. The ancient capital of the 
 Malayan Kingdom, or, as it was sometimes called, the 
 Kingdom of Malacca, formerly stood upon the site of 
 the present town. This old city was built in the 
 twelfth century, and conquered by a chief from Java, 
 who transferred the royal residence to Malacca. From 
 that period its population and wealth gradually de- 
 clined, so that in 1819, when the English took posses- 
 sion, there were but few vestiges of the former city, 
 which indeed had become but a haunt for pirates, 
 where, as well as in the neighboring islands and pas- 
 sages, they found a secure retreat from the vessels of 
 
HOW THEY LIVE. 57 
 
 the English and the Dutch sent in pursuit of them. 
 The natives still offer for sale models of the various 
 descriptions of the Malay war, pirate, and sailing 
 proas ; and most of them present exceedingly beauti- 
 ful specimens of graceful form. 
 
 The town beai's all the appearance of being in a 
 most prosperous condition ; its port is always crowded 
 with shipping, and its traders are thriving and weal- 
 thy. Marine storehouses are seen throughout the 
 place, but chiefly along the front of the harbor and 
 upon the quay. The principal merchants occupy 
 commodious and tasteful residences, built fronting 
 the bay. There is a striking contrast in the dwellings 
 of those who have settled in this thriving place, be- 
 tween the elegant and convenient town and country 
 houses of the colonial oflicials and merchants, and the 
 ill ventilated and filthy domiciles of the Chinese, or 
 the frail tenements of the Malays. The latter ordina- 
 rily select some marshy ground in the suburbs, near 
 a road or pathway, and rear upon piles their wooden 
 houses, the only entrance to which is by means of 
 temporary bridges, often constructed of a single plank. 
 
 The prosperity of Singapore, so apparent even to 
 the casual observer, is mainly to be attributed to the 
 sagacious and energetic Sir Stamford Raffles, to whom 
 Great Britain is indebted for the possession of the 
 country, who pursued with untiring zeal, in spite of 
 the opposition of many in higher authority, his deter- 
 mined purpose of carrying out his favorite projects of 
 policy in the administration of the colony. 
 
 The population at the period of the Mississippi's 
 visit was estimated at eighty thousand, a number 
 3* 
 
58 EXPEcrnoN to japan. 
 
 which shows a very rapid increase since it fell into 
 the possession of the British, at which time there were 
 scarce two hundred on the whole island of Singapore. 
 The inhabitants are made np of Jews, Chinese, Arabs, 
 Malays, and natives of the neighboring countries. 
 The Europeans count the least, and the Chinese the 
 largest number ; of these last it was stated that there 
 are no less than sixty thousand, who are the artisans, 
 fishermen, laborers, and small dealers of the place ; 
 an industrious class, to which the colony is indebted 
 for much of its trading activity. 
 
 These various people who inhabit Singapore retain 
 their national habits and customs, and their peculiar 
 modes of worship. The Chinese lets grow his tail, 
 smokes his opium, and ofiers incense to Joss ; the 
 Arab sports his turban, invokes the name of the pro- 
 phet, and prostrates himself within the mosque, while 
 the European shaves his beard, drinks London porter, 
 and takes his seat in the church pew. Most of the 
 different nations have their places of worship ; there 
 are Chinese temples and Mohammedan mosques, as 
 well as Christian Churches. A curious confusion of 
 religions seems to have resulted from the intermin- 
 gling of sects, as may be inferred from what was seen 
 by the Commodore on a visit to a Chinese temple. 
 In one of the recesses of the place the devil was repre- 
 sented in human form, but of exceedingly hideous 
 physiognomy, while in front of him was placed an 
 image of the virgin and child. This was certainly a 
 very strange assortment of company, and naturally 
 set the Commodore to conjecturing as to what could 
 possibly have brought together such very opposite 
 
A HOSPITABLE MERCHANT. 59 
 
 characters ; whetlier the intention was to represent 
 the mother and child as at the mercy of the devil, or 
 the reverse, was not very clear, although, from the 
 decidedly uncomfortable expression of his satanic 
 majesty's face, it might be inferred that he was less at 
 his ease than any of the company and quite out of his 
 element. It was, however, concluded that the bring- 
 ing of Christian personages into a Chinese temple 
 was in some way connected with the early introduc- 
 tion of the Romish religion by the Portuguese mis- 
 sionaries. 
 
 The stay of the Mississippi at Singapore was so 
 short that there was but little opportunity to see much 
 of the European society. Yisits and salutes were ex- 
 changed with the acting governor and with the com- 
 mander of the military forces ; these, together with 
 some official business transacted with the United States 
 consul, constituted the extent of the Commodore's in- 
 tercourse with the European residents. With, however, 
 a Chinese merchant, who seemed to be imbued with 
 the true spirit of hospitality, many of the officers of the 
 ship formed an agreeable acquaintance, and were hos- 
 pitably entertained at his house. This gentleman's 
 name was Whampoa, a man of courteous bearing and 
 great intelligence, and who had made considerable 
 progress in the English language, which he spoke 
 with some fluency. His country residence was the 
 most beautiful on the island. The house was large, 
 commodious, and tastefully furnished, and its rooms 
 were filled with objects of curiosity and vertu. 
 Surrounding the dwelHng were extensive pleasure 
 grounds and plantations, on which the various pro- 
 
60 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ductions of the island, the useful as well as ornamen- 
 tal, were cultivated to great perfection. There were 
 collections of animals and rare birds, among which 
 were the cassowary and crowned pigeon from l^ew 
 Guinea, and a singular breed of perfectly white pea- 
 fowl. The residence of the hospitable Whampoa, 
 where the Commodore dined and spent the night, was 
 surrounded by all that could delight the eye, or add 
 to the enjoyment of life. Among other luxurious ap- 
 panages of the establishment, there was a beautiful 
 white Arabian horse, kept by Whampoa for his own 
 especial use under the saddle, and the Commodore 
 was very much struck by its symmetry of form, pu- 
 rity of color, and excellence of temper, for it was as 
 docile as a lamb. 
 
 The present Eajah, a pensioner of the British gov- 
 ernment, with his numerous wives and children, oc- 
 cupies a native village about a mile from the English 
 town. The Commodore did not see him, but his son, 
 a fine intelligent youth, came on board the ship to 
 pay his respects. 
 
 In a military and geographical point of view, Singa- 
 pore is of great importance to England. By means of 
 it, and with an eflfective naval force, this entrance to 
 the China seas may be commanded. Its position is 
 vastly advantageous in a commercial point of view, 
 from which it has become a stopping place for the 
 English mail steamers, and an entrepot for the neigh- 
 boring kingdoms of Sumatra, Borneo, Siam, Cambo- 
 dia, and Cochin China. 
 
 Singapore is in the course of the regular mail 
 route between India, China, Australia and Europe. 
 
SUPPLIES. 61 
 
 There is a constant postal communication, by means 
 of the English and one or more Dutch steamers, with 
 Hong Kong, Penang, Batavia, Shanghai, Calcutta, 
 Madras, Bengal, Bombay, Ceylon, the Mauritius, 
 Cape of Good Hope, and, by the Eed Sea, with Eu- 
 rope and America. 
 
 Supplies of most kinds required by vessels can be 
 obtained at fair prices in the port of Singapore. The 
 water is good, and is supplied from tanks, under the su- 
 pervision of an oificial of the place, the master attend- 
 ant. There was not a pound of coal, however, to be 
 purchased, and there was reason to fear that the Missis- 
 sippi would be deprived of her necessary supplies. It 
 was not practicable to make any arrangement with 
 the Labuan Company, for the whole produce of the 
 mines under their control was exhausted by the Ori- 
 ental and Pacific Company, with which a contract 
 existed for a supply of one thousand tons per month. 
 Fortunately for the Mississippi, however, the stock of 
 the last-named company at Hong Kong was falling 
 short, and, as it was difficult to procure vessels to 
 transport an additional supply, the agent of the com- 
 pany at Singapore agreed to lend the Commodore two 
 hundred and thirty tons, provided it would be returned 
 at Hong Kong. 
 
 The British settlement of Singapore embraces not 
 only the island of that name, but a number of smaller 
 ones scattered about in the neighboring seas. The 
 main island, Singapore, is about twenty-five miles 
 long, and fifteen in breadth, containing an esti- 
 mated area of two hundred and seventy-five square 
 miles. 
 
62 EXl'EDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Wlien the English first obtained possession of 
 Singapore, the island was covered with a forest, and 
 entirely without cultivation. Now in the neighbor- 
 hood of the town, and extending more or less into the 
 interior, there are considerable plantations, which 
 have been chiefly cultivated by the industrious immi- 
 grants from China. Eice, cofiee, sugar, and other 
 agricultural productions of the warmer latitudes are 
 obtained, but the supply is not sufficient for the con- 
 sumption of the island. The tropical fruits grow 
 readily, among which the mangusteen reaches great 
 perfection, although its taste did not equal the antici- 
 pations formed from the boasted deliciousness of its 
 flavor. The fruit, however, was not in full season 
 during the ship's stay, and it may possibly not have 
 reached the height of its excellence. The nutmeg is 
 cultivated with considerable success, as well as the 
 cocoa-nut, orange, and other tropical fruits. 
 
 Various European animals have been introduced 
 into the island. The horse in use is a stumpy, fiery 
 little creature, wonderfully strong for its size. It is 
 generally harnessed to a light carriage which is in 
 common use on the island, and may be hired in the 
 streets of the town at a moderate price for the day. 
 The driver seldom takes his seat upon the box, but 
 runs at the head of his horse, and keeps up a speed in 
 company with the animal of six, and sometimes even 
 seven or eight miles an hour. This plan suggests a 
 good hint for the prevention of cruelty to animals, as 
 it has the effect of securing a humane consideration 
 for the beast, which is not likely to be over driven, 
 when for every step it takes its driver takes two, and 
 
HUNGBY TIGERS. 63 
 
 is thus forcibly reminded of a fellow feeling which 
 cannot fail to make him " wondrous kind." 
 
 The native animals are generally the same as those 
 of the adjacent peninsula, from which many of them 
 migrate. The tigers especially entertain a great par- 
 tiality for Singapore, and resort there in great num- 
 bers by swimming across the strait which separates 
 the main land from the island. These are the genuine 
 animals, which have no hesitation in pouncing upon 
 a passing traveller, or snatching up and making a 
 meal of any unfortunate Chinaman or native who 
 may happen to be in the jungle, busy in cutting wood, 
 clearing land for the rice plantations, or otherwise 
 occupied. It was stated on the best authority that 
 not a day passes without the destruction of one human 
 being at least by these ferocious beasts. The Com- 
 modore was at first disposed to be incredulous of this 
 statement, but as the acting governor and commander 
 of the forces both confirmed it, he could no longer 
 hesitate to accept it as truth. He was told by them 
 that so much of an every day occurrence was this 
 fatality, that many of the cases were not reported, in 
 order to avoid the trouble and expense of a coroner's 
 inquest, which the laws require. " Death by tiger," 
 however, is a verdict that might be rendered daily 
 were the legal formalities complied with. 
 
 It is said, and pi-obably with truth, that the tiger, 
 after he has once tasted of human flesh, becomes so 
 fond of it that he prefers its flavor to that of his ordi- 
 nary venison or wild boar, and will make every effort 
 to obtain a supply of his favorite food. It is this in- 
 tense longing for human flesh which makes the tiger 
 
64 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 SO very dangerous to the inhabitants of Singapore, es- 
 pecially to the poor Malay or Chinese who may be 
 obliged to expose himself in the jungle and the forest. 
 It was said, too, that the animal showed decided pre- 
 ference for a Chinaman, 
 
 iNor do these stories of the tiger seem very won- 
 derful, when the fact is well established, that those 
 savages who are addicted to cannibalism become pas- 
 sionately fond of their horribly unnatural food. There 
 is a tribe of Malays, called Battas, who, like their fel- 
 low Malay tigers, are said by Sir Stamford Eaffles to 
 eat one another, and to prefer such food to any other. 
 Nor are they to be classed entirely among barbarians, 
 for these Battas can read and write, and have codes 
 of laws of great antiquity ; and yet, according to the 
 authority just named, not less than from sixty to a 
 hundred Battas are eaten annually, even during a 
 time of peace. 
 
 In addition to the tigers there are deer and wild 
 boars found upon the island, and several varieties 
 of smaller animals, the monkey, the wild hog or 
 peccary, the porcupine and the sloth. Birds abound ; 
 some are of great beauty. Serpents are not very 
 numerous, but among them is the venomous cobra. 
 A singular animal, called the water buffalo, was 
 more particularly observed at Singapore. It ap- 
 proaches in size to the ox of our country, and like it 
 is used as an animal for draught, being harnessed to 
 the shafts of a cart and guided by a driver, who 
 holds a rope which is fastened to a ring or thong 
 passed through the cartilage which divides the nos- 
 trils. The skin of this beast is rough, and not un- 
 
DEPAETITEE FROM SINGAPORE. 65 
 
 like that of the rhinoceros, and though the water 
 buffalo has somewhat the general appearance of the 
 ox, its head is altogether different. Notwithstanding 
 the seeming thickness and toughness of its hide, it 
 suffers greatlj from the flies, and to avoid them keeps, 
 except during feeding time, in the water ; hence, 
 probably, its name. 
 
 Inquiries were made about two remarkable inhabi- 
 tants of the waters about Malacca and Sumatra, de- 
 scribed by Raffles : the sailing fish, called by the 
 natives ihan layer, and the duyong, mentioned by 
 Valentin, and so long talked of as the mermaid ; but 
 the Commodore was told by the inhabitants of Singa- 
 pore that these fish had become very scarce, if not 
 entirely extinct. Shells collected upon the adjacent 
 coasts and along the Straits of Malacca are brought 
 in large quantities to Singapore for sale, and some ex- 
 cellent specimens were obtained. 
 
 The Mississippi having taken on board the neces- 
 sary supplies of fuel, left Singapore on the 29th of 
 March. The ship proceeded through the middle 
 channel, passing near a light-house erected on the 
 rock called " Pedra Branca." This course was taken 
 with the view of running up on the Cochin China and 
 Hainan shores. 
 
 On the morning of the 6th of April, as the ship 
 was proceeding on her course, vast numbers of fish- 
 ing boats were descried as far as the eye could reach. 
 No less than two hundred and sixty-nine of these 
 little craft were counted, at one time, from the poop. 
 They were sailing in couples, about ninety fathoms 
 apart, before the wind, with a net extended between 
 
66 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 each two. They were curiously rigged, having square 
 sails set upon two or three masts, which had, at a dis- 
 tance, somewhat the appearance of courses and top- 
 sails, which they hoisted and lowered as they desired 
 to graduate the rate of sailing, in order to keep way 
 with their consorts. These vessels were engaged in 
 taking a small fish similar to the sardine of the Medi- 
 terranean, and the same mode of netting them is pur- 
 sued in both localities. 
 
 The appearance of these craft was a sure indica- 
 tion of the proximity of land, and accordingly, at 
 half past ten in the morning, it was sighted. The 
 ship continuing her course toward the roadstead of 
 Macao, was anchored at dark under the Ladrones. 
 On the following morning she proceeded to Macao 
 roads, and after a communication with the shore, the 
 course was continued on to Hong Kong, where she 
 finally came to anchor about sunset of the same 
 day. 
 
 Here were found the sloops-of-war Plymouth and 
 Saratoga, and the store-ship Supply ; the two former 
 of which, as the Mississippi let go het anchor, fired 
 the usual salute, which was duly returned from the 
 guns of the Mississippi ; the Susquehanna, however, 
 was nowhere to be seen. This vessel had been de- 
 signated by the government as the flag-ship of the 
 Commodore, who, much to his surprise and disap- 
 pointment, found that she had sailed a fortnight pre- 
 viously for Shanghai. !N"o other course was left to 
 him, therefore, but to despatch the Plymouth to the 
 same port, with instructions to Commander Buchanan 
 of the Susquehanna to await there the Commodore's 
 
HONG KONG. 67 
 
 arrival in the Mississippi, wliich he meant should fol- 
 low the Susquehanna as soon as she could be prepared 
 for the northern cruise ; and fortunately Shanghai was 
 at no great distance out of the route to Japan. 
 
 The town of Hong Kong presents a picture of 
 busy activity ; the shore is lined with Chinese boats, 
 the harbor is crowded with the shipping of all nations, 
 and the toiling Chinese are kept at work in the roads, 
 or in other labors required by this progressive place. 
 When the English took possession of the island in 
 1841, there was but a bleak and barren hill-side where 
 there now stands the city of Yictoria. The popula- 
 tion of the place now amounts to no less than 14,671, 
 and while its commercial warehouses, its docks and 
 piers, and its fleet of traders, give evidence of its ma- 
 terial prosperity, its social, intellectual, and religious 
 progress are proved by its club-houses, reading- 
 rooms, schools, and churches. Heathenism has also 
 its visible signs. The Chinese have three temples, 
 and the Mahommedans a mosque at Hong Kong. 
 
 The island rises at the north in a range of moun- 
 tains, the base of which terminates near the sea, leav- 
 ing a nan-ow edge, along which the town of Victoria 
 extends for two or three miles. There is a large 
 trade in opium between India and Hong Kong, it 
 being imported into the latter place, and thence smug- 
 gled into China along the coast. 
 
 There is no very extensive agricultural culture at 
 Hong Kong, as the land for the most part is rocky, 
 and of little fertility. On the southern part of the 
 island, however, the soil is somewhat more favorable 
 than that on the northern, and it contains a single val- 
 
68 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ley whicli is tolerably productive. There is an abun- 
 dance of excellent water. The climate is hot, and as 
 the alternations of rain and heat keep up an active de- 
 composition in the marshy districts of the island, they 
 render it quite unwholesome. The southern side of 
 Hong Kong is the more healthful, as it is refreshed 
 and purified by the south-western monsoon, but being 
 destitute of good harbors, the English were obliged 
 to fix their settlement on the north. 
 
 The laboring class and the small traders are chiefly 
 Chinese, who are ever on the alert for gain. Their 
 bazaars invite the passing stranger in every street, 
 and the itinerant artisans go busily tramping in their 
 daily routine. There are many striking figures among 
 them, with their peculiar costumes and novel imple- 
 ments of labor. 
 
 On leaving Hong Kong, the Mississippi went to 
 Macao, and thence to "Whampoa, on the Canton Eiver. 
 where she anchored. In this river there are certain 
 bars, and it is necessary not only to take a pilot, but to 
 employ small Chinese boats, which are stationed at the 
 sides of the crooked channel, and on the bars alluded to 
 as guides. As the boats receive a dollar each for this 
 service, they are called " dollar boats." Whampoa, 
 which is the anchorage for all large vessels whose 
 business is with Canton, is on the river, about twelve 
 miles from that city. The pagoda here is a marked 
 object, and however it may be venerated by the Chi- 
 nese on religious grounds, is no less regarded for its 
 usefulness as a land-mai-k by foreign vessels, for they 
 steer and anchor by its bearings. 
 
 The passage to Canton is made in boats, and is by 
 
WHERE THE FOEEIGNEES LIVE. 69 
 
 no means very agreeable. The Commodore was sadly 
 disappointed in the appearance of the stream, which 
 he describes as muddy and shallow, with scarcely a 
 hut upon its banks until the city is nearly reached ; 
 and then swarms of floating habitations are seen 
 moored to the banks, five or six tiers deep, and occu- 
 pied by a wretched, half clad people. Through these 
 two lines of receptacles of poverty and filth which 
 thus border the stream, you pass to the mercantile 
 factory, the residence of most of the foreign merchants, 
 and the spot where the stranger lands. Hence he is 
 conducted to the houses of those to whom he bears 
 letters of introduction, where he is hospitably received 
 and takes up his lodging, as there are no comfortable 
 places of public entertainment in this quarter. 
 
 The comparatively small space occupied by the 
 foreigners on the river side is, notwithstanding its lim- 
 ited extent, quite a pleasant spot. The whole quar- 
 ter contains but about four acres. The foreign mer- 
 chants occupy the large buildings in the rear as places 
 of business and abode, while the front, which includes 
 a half of the whole area, is beautifully laid out as a 
 garden, with an English church in the centre, and the 
 flags of difierent nations floating from tall poles planted 
 in various spots. The grounds are arranged with 
 walks, and ornamented with shrubbery and flowering 
 plants, presenting a delightful resort in the freshness 
 of the morning or the cool of the evening. The 
 stranger is struck with the peculiar aspect of the 
 place, when on one side, in proximity to low, dingy, 
 Chinese houses, buildings of European structure rise 
 to the height of three or four stories, while on the 
 
70 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 other, the river is densely populous witli tlie inhabited 
 boats. The foreigners term their residences and 
 places of business factories, but the natives designate 
 them as Hongs, which is the usual Chinese word for a 
 commercial establishment or warehouse. 
 
 Although there are but few of the larger or pub- 
 lic buildings in the foreign quarter, which is but a 
 suburb of the city, there are all the ordinary varieties 
 of streets, houses, and bazaars. Foreigners generally 
 confine their visits to that part adjacent to the garden, 
 through which Old and New China streets run. 
 
 The only hotel in the place, frequented by Euro- 
 peans and Americans, is near the latter street, and is 
 quite inferior. It is the hospitable practice of the 
 foreign merchants to invite strangers to their princely 
 establishments, where a generous profusion and a 
 warm welcome are extended to the visitor. The Com- 
 modore and some of his officers were received into 
 the, house of the American consul, and most gener- 
 ously entertained. In addition to Old and ISTew 
 China streets, there is, hard by, a narrow, filthy alley, 
 not inappropriately called Hog lane, and filled with 
 the most abandoned portion of the people, who minis- 
 ter to the vicious appetites of the foreign sailors, sup- 
 plying them with wretched grog and other dangerous 
 stimulants. 
 
 There are no drives or walks leading directly into 
 the country from the foreign quarter ; the residents 
 are, therefore, limited to the river, where, in the even- 
 ing, they exercise themselves in rowing their swift 
 little boats. On the opposite side of the river, how- 
 ever, on the island of Honan, there is a walk, extend- 
 
CANTON. 71 
 
 ing a mile or more, to a Buddhist temple ; but there 
 is little that is attractive in the surrounding country, 
 and nothing peculiar about the temple, which is simi- 
 lar to the other joss hou.ses. On a visit which was 
 made to this spot by one of the officers of the expedi- 
 tion, a drove of sacred pigs were seen in their sacred 
 styes, and they seemed to flourish exceedingly, for 
 they were so fat that they could not stand. It was 
 something of a curiosity to behold this sanctified pork, 
 fattening upon the drippings of the sanctuary. 
 
 Canton is the capital of the province of Kuan-tong, 
 from which the name given to the city by Europeans 
 has been corrupted. It is falsely applied, for it is the 
 name of the province only, that of the city is Kuang- 
 chow-foo. The city is built on two rivers, the Choo- 
 Keang, or Pearl, and the Pi-Keang, which is a branch 
 of the former. The mouth of the Choo-Keang, Pearl, 
 or Canton Eiver, is called the Bocca Tigris. It de- 
 rives this name from the supposed resemblance of the 
 hill-tops, on Great Tiger Island, to the outline of a 
 tiger's head. Although the resemblance is not at first 
 very striking, it becomes quite obvious after examina- 
 tion. The river is guarded at its mouth, and at seve- 
 ral points on its banks, by Chinese forts, which, with 
 their whitewashed walls and general pacific aspect, 
 do not appear very formidable. 
 
 The river swarms with pirates, the fishermen oc- 
 casionally becoming their allies, and they carry on 
 their depredations unchecked in the very teeth of 
 the forts. When the pirates fail of falling in with 
 strangers whom they dare to rob, they fall out with 
 each other, and murder and plunder their friends 
 
72 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 with as little compunction as if they were strangers. 
 In the passage of the Mississippi from Macao to 
 Whampoa, the anchorage on the Canton Eivet, one of 
 the two Chinese boats in tow was swamped by bad 
 steering, whereupon the other, in fear of a similar 
 catastrophe, cast off and attempted to proceed up the 
 river. The owner, who happened to be on board the 
 steamer, expressed his fears that she would be over- 
 hauled by pirates before her arrival at Whampoa ; 
 nor were his fears groundless ; she was boarded and 
 robbed a few hours only after she had lost sight of 
 the Mississippi. While the steamer -v^as at Hong 
 Kong several piracies were committed almost under 
 the guns of the vessels-of-war. As for the land 
 pirates, they are quite as expert at picking and 
 stealing as the most accomplished thieves and pick- 
 pockets of l!^ew Tork or London. One of the lieu- 
 tenants of the Mississippi, at early twilight one even- 
 ing, just as he was stepping into a hired boat to re- 
 turn to the ship, was seized amid a crowd of people, 
 and an attempt was made to pull his watch from his 
 fob ; fortunately his Pickwickian rotundity of form 
 saved the watch, but the chain was carried off in 
 triumph. 
 
 From the mouth of the river to Canton the dis- 
 tance is about thirty-two miles, but the large vessels 
 do not proceed further than the anchorage at "Wham- 
 poa, ten miles below the foreign quarter of the city, 
 with which communication is kept up by boats. The 
 country adjacent to Canton is intersected with rivers 
 and creeks, in which fish abound, and a plentiful mar- 
 ket is daily open in the city. 
 
THK CITY. 
 
 73 
 
 Custom House in Canton Kiver. 
 
 The alluvial ground south of the city is highly 
 cultivated with rice fields and gardens. The higher 
 ground to the north and east is wooded with firs and 
 other trees. A wall encloses a portion of the city, 
 which is subdivided by another wall running from 
 east to west. ISTorth of the latter is that part called 
 the inner or old city, which is inhabited chiefly by 
 the dominant Tartar families, while to the south is 
 the new or outer city, where the inhabitants are 
 mostly composed of the descendants of the original 
 Chinese population. The streets are narrow, tortuous, 
 and winding, like a cork-screw, but thronged by an 
 immense population, and so very contracted that 
 there is often barely room for two sedan chairs, the 
 only vehicles allowed, to pass each other. 
 
 The importance of Canton results from its being 
 the emporium of the great trade of Europe and Ame- 
 4 
 
74 
 
 EXPEDinOK TO JAPAN. 
 
 rica with China ; the anmial amount of which was, 
 some years ago, estimated at eighty millions of dol- 
 
 Cliinese. 
 
 lars, the principal part of which is under the con- 
 trol of the merchants of England and the United 
 States. 
 
 On leaving Canton, the Commodore was invited 
 to take possession of the residence of a mercantile friend 
 at Macao, where he soon found himself in the most 
 luxurious quarters. Tlie Commodore, and his officers 
 who accompanied him, not conscious of the exceeding 
 expansiveness of the hospitality of the foreign mer- 
 chants in that countiy, naturally supposed, that the loan 
 of a house was a sufficiently generous stretch of liber- 
 ality, and took it for granted, as the establishment was 
 unoccupied by its proprietor, that the living was to 
 be at their own expense. Accordingly, one of the 
 
COMFOETABLE QTJAETEES. 75 
 
 officers was appointed caterer, who was by no means 
 reserved in giving his orders for this or that article 
 that he might desire, to the head servant in charge of 
 the house. There was no little sm-prise at the end of 
 the visit, to find that nothing would be received, but 
 the ordinary gratuity to that prince of major-domos, 
 who said, that his employer was only too happy to 
 have his house occupied by his friends ; and expressed 
 a hope that the Commodore and his party would not 
 think of going elsewhere on any future visit to Macao. 
 
 A guest at one of these magnificent establish- 
 ments, finds himself as much at his ease as he would 
 be in his inn, and no sooner expresses a wish than it 
 is gratified, without the disagreeable reminder aftei*- 
 wards, that he has to pay for it. The whole manage- 
 ment of the household devolves upon the major-domo, 
 whose duty it is to satisfy every want, while the master 
 merely concerns himself with providing the means for 
 this profuse hospitality. There is, also, a very con- 
 venient official attached to these establishments, 
 termed a comprador, whose duty it is to pay all the 
 bills for the purchases and incidental expenses of the 
 guest, who, of course, refunds what is paid. 
 
 There is not much at present to interest the visitor 
 at Macao as it is but a ghost of its former self. 
 There is almost a complete absence of trade or com- 
 merce. The harbor is deserted, and the sumptuous 
 dwellings and storehouses of the old merchants are 
 comparatively empty, while the Portuguese who in- 
 habit the place are but rarely seen, and seem listless 
 and unoccupied. An occasional Parsee, in high 
 crowned cap and snowy robe, a venerable merchant, 
 
76 EXPEDITION TO JAPA^. 
 
 and here and there a Jesuit priest, and his flock of 
 youthful disciples pass now and then, but they are 
 only as the decaying monuments of the past. 
 
 At one time, however, the town of Macao was one 
 of the most flourishing marts of the East. "When the 
 Portuguese obtained possession, in the latter part of 
 the sixteenth century, they soon established it as the 
 centre of a wide commerce with China and other 
 oriental coimtries. Its origin is attributed to a few 
 Portuguese merchants belonging to Lampacayo, who 
 were allowed to resort there, and establish some tem- 
 porary huts for shelter and the drying of damaged goods. 
 Hue, the Chinese traveller, gives a different account ; 
 he states that the Portuguese were allowed to settle 
 by the Emperor, in return for the signal service of 
 capturing a famous pirate who had long ravaged the 
 coasts. From an humble beginning, the settlement 
 gradually arose to an imposing position as a com- 
 mercial place, for which it was greatly indebted to the 
 monopoly it enjoyed of eastern commerce. 
 
 The town is situated upon a peninsula at the south- 
 ward of the island of Macao. It is sufficiently pic- 
 turesque in appearance, built as it is upon the acclivi- 
 ties of the rising ground about the harbor, with its 
 gay-looking white houses, which overhang the ter- 
 races that bound the shore and look out upon the sea. 
 The houses of the old merchants, though they now 
 bear an appearance of neglect, yet attest, by the 
 spaciousness of the apartments, and the luxuriousness 
 of their appointments, the former opulence of the 
 Portuguese traders. The pleasant walks about the 
 circuit of the neighboring hills and the Praya invite 
 
MACAO HARBOR. 
 
 77 
 
 the visitor to strengtiien himself in cheerful exercise. 
 The dull look of the town is somewhat relieved in the 
 summer time, when the foreign residents of Canton 
 
 Cliinese Woman and Girl. 
 
 and Hong Kong resort there to bathe in the waters of 
 Bishop's Bay, and to recreate in the enjoyment of tho 
 healthful sea air of the place. 
 
 The harbor is not suitable for large vessels, which 
 anchor in Macao roads, several miles from the town. 
 It is, however, though destitute of every appearance 
 
78 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 of commercial activity, always enlivened by the fleet 
 of Tanka boats whicb pass, conveying passengers to 
 and fro, between the land and the Canton and Hong 
 Kong steamers. The Chinese damsels, in gay cos- 
 tiime, as they scull their light craft upon the smooth 
 and gently swelling surface of the bay, present a lively 
 
 aspect, and as they are looked upon in the distance, 
 from the verandahs above the Praya, which command 
 a view of the bay, have a fairy-like appearance, which 
 a nearer approach serves, however, to change into a 
 more substantial and coarse reality. 
 
 The Cave of Camoens, where the Portuguese poet 
 is supposed to have written a portion of his Lusiad, 
 
TOMB OF A POET. 79 
 
 is a place of universal interest and resort at Macao. 
 It is picturesquely situated upon the summit of a 
 small hill, on the margin of the inner harbor. Large 
 granite rocks are here gathered in a confused cluster, 
 which form a natural cave, from the entrance of which 
 there is a wide prospect of the surrounding country. 
 The banyans, the pagoda, and other oriental trees 
 unite their foliage, and form a grove in which the 
 rocky cave is embowered. Surrounding it are grounds 
 planted with trees, creeping vines, and flowering 
 shrubs, charmingly arranged by the borders of wind- 
 ing paths, and upon the sides of the hills. Artificial 
 terraces, ingeniously disposed, invite the visitor to the 
 enjoyment of the view or to quiet repose. 
 
 Above the cave rises a rotunda, from which there 
 is an enchanting prospect, and below, a marble monu- 
 ment, with a bronze bust and an inscription, records 
 the features, the genius, and virtue of Camoens, the 
 poet. 
 
 Camoens' visit to Macao was during his banish- 
 ment from Portugal, in consequence of his pertinacious 
 courtship of a lady of rank, whose parents did not 
 affect an alliance with the poet, who, although of a 
 respectable family, was poor, and looked upon as an 
 uncertain adventurer. In 1551, he proceeded to Goa, 
 in India, where having again involved himself in trou- 
 ble by writing his "Absurdities of India," he was 
 banished to the Moluccas, and in the course of his 
 exile he resorted frequently to Macao, which was a 
 favorite residence of the poet. The cave was his 
 chosen spot of retirement, where, in its " sweet retired 
 solitude," he meditated his great work, the Lusiad. 
 
80 BXPEDrriON to japan. 
 
 Camoens returned to Portugal, but only to live in 
 misery and die in a hospital. 
 
 The interior of the island of Macao, which is ex- 
 clusively cultivated by the Chinese, yields a variety 
 of vegetable productions, with which the town is sup- 
 plied. The whole population is about 20,000, and of 
 these, 13,000 belong to the peninsula and town, of 
 which more than one half are Chinese, and in the 
 interior of the island this race compose the whole. 
 The government of the town is in the hands of the 
 Portuguese. The Portuguese have a college, churches, 
 and various educational, benevolent and ecclesiastical 
 institutions in Macao, where the Chinese also have 
 their peculiar establishments and a temple. 
 
 On the evening of April 28th, the Mississippi was 
 again under way, leaving the Saratoga at Macao, to 
 await the arrival of Dr. S. W. "Williams, of Canton, 
 who had been appointed interpreter to the expedition. 
 The course was now directed for Shanghai. 
 
 The navigation of the coast of China, from Hong 
 Kong to the mouth of the Yang-tse-Keang, is, at most 
 seasons, difficult and perplexing. The frequent fogs 
 and irregular tides and currents make it very annoy- 
 ing to those who are strangers to the navigation, when 
 close in with the coast. During the passages of the 
 Susquehanna and Mississippi from Hong Kong to 
 Shanghai, neither had a meridian observation of the 
 sun. 
 
 The entrance to the Tang-tse-Keang, which leads to 
 the commercial city of Shanghai, is obstructed on either 
 side by shoals, which make it dangerous for vessels not 
 having pilots. The rise and fall of the tide averages 
 
APPROACH TO SHANGHAI. 81 
 
 about ten feet, and vessels are obliged to find their 
 way hap-hazard into the channel, or perchance run 
 upon one of the Sister Sands, as they are called, 
 Numbers of vessels resorting to Shanghai are lost, and 
 still nothing has been done to remedy the evil. The 
 Commodore was convinced, on visiting this river with 
 the Mississippi, that until proper landmarks and 
 beacons are established to indicate the entrance, it 
 must be an unfit resort for any but the smaller vessels 
 of a squadron, and consequently, an unfit place for a 
 naval depot. The Susquehanna, the Plymouth, and 
 the Supply, all grounded on going in, and the last re- 
 mained thumping on the North Sand twenty-two 
 hours, and was only saved from total loss by a provi- 
 dential change of wind. The Mississippi was carried, 
 in the confusion of her pilot, out of the channel, but by 
 good fortune did not stop, though she ran into nine- 
 teen feet water, one foot less than her draft, on the 
 South Sand, the power of the engines having proved 
 her salvation. 
 
 Shanghai is built upon the left bank of the Kiver 
 "Wampon, a branch of the Yang-tse-Keang. Near the 
 mouth of the Wampon is the village of "Woosung, the 
 station where the foreign merchants formerly estab- 
 lished their receiving ships, and the trading vessels 
 their anchorage Nothing can be less picturesque than 
 the scenery of the banks of the "Wampon in the approach 
 to Shanghai. Monotonous fiats of alluvial grounds 
 stretch their wide expanse on either side of the tortuous 
 river. The fertile fields, rich with an abundant harvest 
 of rice and grain, are encouraging prospects to the eye 
 of the agriculturist, but the poetical observer is sadly 
 4* 
 
83 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 disappointed in a view whicli presents a dead level of 
 landscape, without a mountain, a hill-side, or even a 
 tree to relieve the monotony. 
 
 In front of the city of Shanghai, quays have been 
 built out, and along them extend the storehouseo and 
 sumptuous residences of the foreign merchants, which 
 have been constructed since the termination of the opium 
 war with Great Britain. Here are to be found wide 
 and well-graded streets, beautiful gardens, and all the 
 comforts and conveniences that are to be met with 
 in any part of the world. Two Gothic churches, 
 one belonging to the English, and the other to the 
 American Protestant Episcopal mission, show an en- 
 couraging success of missionary effort, and excite 
 the hopes of the Christian, for the progress of his 
 faith. 
 
 The native city is a great contrast to that part of the 
 suburbs inhabited by the foreign residents. Shanghai, 
 proper, is enclosed within a wall, and has the appear- 
 ance of most of the Chinese cities. The place is quite 
 large, and very populous. Its streets are narrow, like 
 most of those of the native cities, not being much more 
 than eight or ten feet in width, and are intersected by 
 dirty alleys, which lead to the rear of the small and con- 
 tracted dwellings of the Chinese, who live in the midst 
 of foul air and all kinds of filth. The filthiness of 
 Shanghai gives no favorable idea of the domestic 
 habits of the people ; a slight glance at the men and 
 women usually met in the streets was quite convinc- 
 ing enough of their want of reverence for what the 
 proverb says is " next to godliness." During the stay 
 of the Commodore at Shanghai, the shops had been 
 
IMMENSE TRADE. 83 
 
 emptied of their contents and earned into places of 
 safety, in expectation of an attack upon the city by 
 the rebels ; consequently the bazaars had a dull look, 
 
 Inhabitants of Shanghai. 
 
 and but few of the native inhabitants could be seen. 
 
 The domestic trade of the city has been immense 
 for a long time, being carried on in all directions with 
 the vast interior of China. A multitudinous popula- 
 tion swarms in that part of the comitry which stretches 
 back of Shanghai, and the commercial intercourse 
 with the large city of I^ankin and others, with their 
 millions of inhabitants, and incessant trading activity, 
 was constant, until interrupted by the Chinese rebel- 
 lion. The trade of Shanghai has been stated to be as 
 large as that of any part of the world, not excepting 
 even London. 
 
 The immediate neighborhood of Shanghai is highly 
 cultivated, and fertile fields stretch in all directions as 
 far as the eye can reach, rich with their harvests of 
 
84 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 cotton, rice, wheat, barley, beans and potatoes. The 
 markets of the town are well supplied, and at moder- 
 ate prices, with, beef, mutton, poultry, game, fish, and 
 vegetables of all varieties. Among the different kinds 
 of game, the pheasant, woodcock, and snipe abound, 
 and of the fish, the shad is common during its season, 
 of good size and flavor ; some, indeed, larger than are 
 seen in the United States, though in taste inferior to 
 those caught in our rivers. Fruit is scarce, and of 
 inferior quality, as the Chinese pay but little attention 
 to its cultivation ; some cherries, however, were tasted, 
 which proved to be tolerable, and it was said that the 
 peaches were good. All the varieties of Chinese 
 manufactured articles can ordinarily be obtained at 
 Shanghai, and especially a silk of famous fabric, woven 
 at Su Chan, a neighboring city. But the intestine 
 disturbances prevailing deprived the Commodore of 
 any but a hearsay knowledge of many of these articles, 
 which, however, are said to be obtained, in pacific 
 times, more easily at Shanghai than at Canton. 
 
 The foreign commerce has greatly increased since 
 the termination of the war with Great Britain, and 
 the general belief is entertained that Shanghai, with 
 its superior advantages, will monopolize naost of the 
 foreign trade with China. 
 
 The population of the place was estimated at two 
 hundred and eighty thousand, and the Chinese who 
 composed it seemed to be of a better class than those 
 at Canton and Hong Kong. Like all their country- 
 men, they are indefatigable in labor and untiring in 
 trading activity, for which they have, undoubtedly, a 
 natural instinct. 
 
VISIT TO THE TAOU-TAI. 85 
 
 The Commodore, while at Shanghai, made an in- 
 teresting return visit to the Taou-tai, or governor and 
 commander of the city, vrho first called upon him at 
 the American consulate, and afterwards visited the 
 ship. The Taou-tai has a lucrative, but by no means 
 easy office. Among his other duties, he has to watch, 
 especially, the interests and conduct of the foreign 
 residents, and what with the caprices of strangers, the 
 sometimes inordinate claims of their representatives, 
 and the arbitrary requirements of his imperial master, 
 he must have hard work to keep up a fair balance 
 between his duties to his government on the one hand, 
 and the foreigners on the other. This high official has 
 also to sustain the responsibility of a secure transport 
 of the taxes of the province, and to fulfil the by no 
 means sinecure duty of protecting the commerce of 
 Shanghai against the pirates who swarm the coasts. 
 His highness makes his official visits with a pomp and 
 circumstance suitable to his dignified station. The 
 ringing sounds of gongs herald his approach, and he 
 comes seated grandly in his chair of state, attended 
 by a suite of subordinate mandarins. The office, in 
 common with the general practice of China, is be- 
 stowed ordinarily upon him who has earned one of the 
 topmost of the nine colored buttons, which, worn 
 above the official cap, serve, by their vari-colored 
 grades, to distinguish the mandarins. As literary 
 eminence is the passport to office, the Taou-tai is ordi- 
 narily well up in Chinese literature, and can quote 
 whole passages of Confucius or Mencius with the 
 utmost volubility. 
 
 In the Commodore's visit to the Taou-tai he was 
 
86 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 accompanied by twenty of his officers and the Ameri- 
 can consul, who were all, with due regard to the im- 
 portance of the occasion, dressed up in full uniform. 
 The party, thus adorned, and duly seated in sedan 
 chairs, were conveyed from the consular residence to 
 the government house, situated in the centre of the 
 city, within the walls. On arrival at the entrance, the 
 Commodore and his suite were saluted with the usual 
 salvo of three guns (the extent, with the Chinese, of 
 honorable ammunition on such occasions) and the 
 music of a band. The Taou-tai was at the threshold 
 to meet his visitors, and as the Commodore alighted 
 from his sedan chair his highness escorted him into the 
 hall of audience, while the rest of the company fol- 
 lowed. The Commodore was placed, in accordance 
 with Chinese ceremony, at the side of the Taou-tai, on 
 a platform raised a little above the floor. 
 
 On entering and departing from the government 
 house, the party passed through an open apartment, 
 adorned with a bold representation of a gigantic Chinese 
 deity on the wall, and furnished with large wooden 
 chairs, stuff"ed with red cloth cushions, which were 
 ranged along the sides. A table standing in the apart- 
 ment, and holding the vessel containing the pieces of 
 bamboo which are thrown by the hand of the Chinese 
 judge to the executioner, to indicate the number of 
 strokes to be applied to the convicted criminal, showed 
 the ordinary purposes of the chamber, which was that 
 of a hall of justice. 
 
 Kefreshments, consisting of teas, liquors, (includ- 
 ing champagne,) cake, and so forth, were handed 
 round to the visitors in succession ; and, after a stay 
 
LEAVES SHANGHAI. 87 
 
 of an hour, the Commodore and his party returned in 
 the same manner as they came. Entering again their 
 sedan chairs, and traversing the narrow streets of 
 Shanghai in long procession, and jostling every one 
 who obstructed the way, they finally reached the 
 American consiilate. 
 
 The Mississippi had arrived at Shanghai on the 4th 
 of May, and the interval between that date and the 
 17th of the same month, was chiefly employed in 
 transferring the Commodore to the Susquehanna, 
 which then became his flag-ship, and in taking in the 
 usual supplies of coal and provisions for the voyage. 
 No less than.^'we tons of Chinese " cash," * to be dis- 
 pensed in the Lew Chew islands, was rather an un- 
 usual addition to the ship's stores. 
 
 On Monday morning. May 16th, 1853, the Missis- 
 sippi moved down the river, and was followed the next 
 day by the Commodore in the Susquehanna, while 
 flie Plymouth was left behind, for a short time, to 
 await the course of events in the rebel camp, as the 
 United States residents had expressed some fears for 
 the security of their lives and property, her comman- 
 der having orders to follow as soon as he could do so 
 consistently with the safety of American interests at 
 Shanghai. 
 
 The day of departure was unusually clear, and the 
 cultivated banks of the river, with their orchards and 
 fields of grain, never appeared more beautifully gi'een. 
 "With the fine day, which gave a bright, cheerful as- 
 pect to every object, the inspiriting music of the band, 
 
 * The " cash " is a small copper coin, ahout tho twelve-hundredth 
 part of a dollar. 
 
88 EXPEDITIOK TO JAPAN. 
 
 whicli struck up a succession of lively airs, the crowds 
 of spectators on the shore, and the natural enthusiasm 
 of all on the prospect of carrying out the enterprise 
 which was the great object of the expedition, the 
 departure from Shanghai was in a high degree ani- 
 mating. 
 
 The squadron, which now prepared to sail for Lew 
 Chew, was composed of the Susquehanna, the Missis- 
 sippi, the Supply, and the Caprice, which was dis- 
 covered standing in, as the other ships were standing 
 out, and was ordered to follow. The Plymouth and 
 the Saratoga were expected to sail from China and 
 join the rendezvous at Lew Chew. 
 
 The Susquehanna got under way at one o'clock 
 on the 23d of May, followed by the Mississippi with 
 the Supply in tow, all bound for Napha, the principal 
 port of the Great Lew Chew Islands. In the course 
 of the evening, about six o'clock, the low range of 
 islands known as the Saddles, and inhabited by a 
 sparse population of fishermen, was passed, the ships 
 directing their course to the north of them, where there 
 is an open channel free from shoals. The night was 
 clear, with a full moon, and the weather was mild and 
 agreeable. The Susquehanna moved on at a moderate 
 rate, keeping about a mile in advance of the Missis- 
 sippi, while the Caprice, gently fanned by the south- 
 western monsoon, managed to keep also in sight, 
 though further in the distance, until she was lost in 
 the darkness of the night. 
 
 It was found that the Mississippi, with the aid of 
 topsails, although she had the Supply in tow, rapidly 
 gained upon the Susquehanna ; accordingly a foretop- 
 
BOUKD TO LEW CHEW. 89 
 
 sail was set Tipon the latter, tlie good effect of which 
 was soon shown, by her leaving her competitor so far 
 astern that it was necessary to wait until the Missis- 
 sippi could come up again. The Susquehanna's en- 
 gines were only worked at half speed, with the con- 
 sumption, to which she was restricted, of one ton of 
 coal per hour, but notwithstanding, with the aid of 
 the regular breeze of the monsoon, she succeeded in 
 making seven and a half knots an hour. As the course 
 was southerly, the weather became every moment 
 warmer, and the sea was as smooth as a lake. During 
 the passage, the crew were regularly called to quar- 
 ters, and exercised in all the usual manoeuvres neces- 
 sary in the preparation for action, and on the morning 
 of the 25th of May, after quarters, general orders 11 
 and 12 were read ; the former related to the discipline 
 to be observed on board ship during the visit to the 
 Lew Chew Islands, and the latter enjoined the neces- 
 sity of keeping up the most friendly relations with the 
 Japanese inhabitants wherever found, and also stated 
 that the members of the expedition were ordered to 
 use all possible friendly means, and not to resort to 
 force but from the sternest necessity. 
 
 In the evening the signal of land in sight was 
 made by the Mississippi, and subsequently was re- 
 ported by the man at the fore-topmast head of the 
 Susquehanna. During the night the steamers were 
 kept at slow speed, standing off and on ; the Supply 
 had been previously cast off" from the Mississippi, and 
 left to make her own way under sail. At half-past 
 seven o'clock in the morning of May 26th, the land was 
 again made at a distance of nearly twenty miles, and 
 
90 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 as the steamers moved on, it was distinctly descried 
 as a long island rising gradually from the sea to a 
 cliff at its northern extremity, and with a steep head- 
 land at the south. Beyond the island, which was passed, 
 and its green foliage distinctly seen, was other land, to 
 which the Susquehanna was now headed, followed 
 closely by the Mississippi, while the Supply was quite 
 out of sight. JSTapha was reached in the evening, and 
 entered in company with the Saratoga, from Macao, 
 which ship the steamers had fallen in with off the 
 harbor. 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 Nothing could be more grateful to the eye, 
 after tlie sea voyage, than the first view of the Lew 
 Chew Islands, which arose in picturesque elevations 
 from the sea, covered with the freshest verdure. 
 
 Lew Chew Islimds. 
 
 The large island — Great Lew Chew, as it is called 
 — towered above the numerous islets of the group. 
 Its sides, which here rolled from a central ridge in 
 gentle undulations of fertile fields, and there broke into 
 precipitous crags and irregular rocks down to the co- 
 ral shore, were beautifully diversified by waving rice, 
 groves of pines, palms, and a rich vegetation of varied 
 
92 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 hues of green. On the low land, within the inner 
 harbor, the brown tiled roofs of a gi'oup of houses be- 
 came visible as the ships doubled the cape, aptly- 
 called Abbey Point, from the castellated appearance 
 of the crags and rocks which crowned its summit and 
 gave it the appearance of one of those religious estab- 
 lishments of the Middle Ages. A number of junks 
 were at anchor near the shore, and betokened some 
 degree of trading activity. 
 
 The first movement from the land was the hoisting 
 of the ubiquitous British ensign from the summit of a 
 crag which rises to the north of the town, and soon 
 some persons were discerned in the distance, appa- 
 rently watching with eager curiosity the approach of 
 the vessels. The whole squadron presented quite a 
 formidable appearance, and naturally awakened a 
 great interest on shore, and as the steamers closed in 
 with the land the stir among the natives, who could 
 be seen busily moving about with their white umbrel- 
 las — for a pattering rain kept briskly falling — was 
 quite apparent. 
 
 The ships had hardly come to anchor when a boat 
 came alongside the Susquehanna, bringing a couple 
 of native dignitaries from the shore. Those gentle- 
 men of Napha made quite an imposing appearance, 
 and would have gladdened the heart of an artist in 
 search of a couple of model patriarchs of the time of 
 Joseph and his brethren. Their costume, complexion, 
 and reverend air were quite in character with the pa- 
 triarchal worthies, the thought of whom their presence 
 suggested. They wore long flowing robes of yellow 
 and blue grass-cloth, which were gathered in at the 
 
FIE8T VISIT 'FEOM THE LAND. 93 
 
 ■waist witli sashes, and fell below in folds nearly to 
 their white-sandaled feet. On their heads were bright 
 yellow caps, of a round, oblong form, resembling some- 
 what the turkish fez in shape, termed, in the Loo- 
 Choo dialect, Hatchee-Matchee, which were tied under 
 their chins with strings, while from their swarthy Orien- 
 tal faces, down to their breasts, flowed long beards. The 
 Lew Chew dignitaries came on board, bowing so pro- 
 foundly that they nearly touched the deck at each sa- 
 laam with their yellow caps, and then, after assuming 
 a temporary perpendicular, presented to one of the oflS.- 
 cers their cards. These cards were three feet in length, 
 and of a red color. It was found convenient, from their 
 size, to carry them folded, and they were accordingly 
 borne doubled up. Who these dignitaries were, or what 
 the purpose of their visit, was not very clear, for none 
 of the officers understood their language, and the Chi- 
 nese interpreter of the expedition, Mr. Williams, had 
 only just arrived from Macao in the Saratoga, and had 
 not yet come on board the flag-ship, the Susquehanna. 
 One of the Commodore's Chinese stewards was there- 
 fore summoned in the emergency, and he understood 
 the characters on the Brobdignag cards sufficiently to 
 interpret that the visit was merely a cJiin-chin^ or one 
 of politeness. They asked very courteously after the 
 Commodore, and expressed a wish to have the plea- 
 sure of seeing him. The Commodore, however, know- 
 ing the ceremonious kind of people he had to deal 
 with, and how necessary it was to conform to their 
 oriental notions of dignity, refused to receive them. 
 He had resolved upon showing himself only to the 
 highest in authority, and he had reason to suppose 
 
94 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 that Ms present visitors, thougli undoubtedly of the 
 ton, were not of the loftiest official position. There 
 seemed to be some difference of rank between the 
 two. The one in a yellow robe, who gave his name 
 as Whang-cha-ching (probably the Lew Chew pro- 
 nunciation of Whang-ta-Zhinnie, "His Excellency, 
 Whang "), being the higher personage, and the gen- 
 tleman in blue the lower. 
 
 No sooner had the Lew Chewans departed, evi- 
 dently somewhat discomposed at not having been 
 admitted to the presence of the Commodore, than a 
 boat paddled swiftly by a dozen swarthy, half-naked 
 natives, dashed along and brought up alongside of the 
 steamer. A very civilized-looking gentleman, with a 
 Jewish cast of countenance, now actively stepped out, 
 and was in a moment on deck, announcing himself as 
 Dr. Bettelheim. This gentleman, a converted Jew, 
 was the English missionary who, with his wife and 
 seven children, had resided for seven years on the 
 island of Great Lew Chew, with a forlorn hope of con- 
 verting the natives. He it was who had hoisted the 
 English flag, which had been observed from the ships as 
 they entered the bay. Tliis gentleman was evidently 
 in a great state of excitement on the occasion of the 
 arrival of the Americans, as, without a single prose- 
 lyte on shore to boast of, he was very glad to have 
 his cause strengthened by the presence of so many 
 fellow Christians. Dr. Bettelheim was at once re- 
 ceived by the Commodore, who, in accordance Avith 
 the suggestions of his visitor, resolved upon sending 
 an embassy to the authorities at N^apha, to demand 
 an immediate interview with the Eegent of Lew 
 
BEJECTED OFFERINGS. 
 
 95 
 
 Dr. Bottelheim'e Eesidenoe. 
 
 Chew, who was said to be ruling in behalf of a young 
 king, some ten or eleven years of age. 
 
 On the next day, early in the morning, the two 
 Lew Chewan visitors presented themselves again, 
 bringing in their train four boats, containing a bullock, 
 several pigs, a white goat, some fowls, vegetables, and 
 eggs, which were offered as presents from the authori- 
 ties. The Commodore, however, sent orders that they 
 should be refused, and the Lew Chewans, much put out 
 at the refusal, paddled back very disconsolately to the 
 shore with their presents. The Lew Chewans seem 
 to think that the only object of the visits of foreigners 
 to their country is to get something to eat ; and, accor- 
 dingly, their first movement, on the arrival of a 
 strange ship, is to send on board of her an assortment 
 of eatables such as might stock a butcher or a green- 
 grocer's establishment. 
 
 In the course of the day a lieutenant was sent, in 
 
96 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 company with the Chinese interpreter, to call on the 
 mayor of Napha, to demand an interview on behalf 
 of Commodore Perry with the Regent. The Ameri- 
 cans were courteously received, and treated to soups 
 and sweetmeats, and a closing pipe of tobacco. The 
 mayor seemed deeply wounded that his presents had 
 not been accepted, but was relieved somewhat when 
 he was told that it was against the American laws for 
 our functionaries to receive presents. He promised 
 that the Eegent should be duly informed of the Com- 
 modore's desire to see him ; and although he seemed 
 to be very anxious to impress his visitors with the 
 greatness of that high dignitary, assured them that he 
 would, no doubt, so far condescend as to visit the Sus- 
 quehanna on the following day. 
 
 On the ships coming to anchor the Commodore 
 had signaled, " I^o communication with the shore ! " 
 This injunction was strictly obeyed, although with a 
 feeling of great disappointment, as it was difficult to 
 repress the curiosity all felt to extend their experiences 
 among the strange people on land, and to wander 
 among the beautiful groves and over the verdant hills, 
 which looked so provokingly inviting to those impris- 
 oned on board ship. 
 
 The arrival of the store-ship Supply, the setting 
 out of the survey party to examine the depth and 
 bearings of the harbor, the movements on shore and 
 among the fleet of large-eyed junks moored in the 
 inner bay, several of which vessels put to sea in the 
 course of the morning, were the chief incidents of the 
 second day. The junks were supposed to be bound 
 for Japan, where they were probably hurrying to 
 
VISIT OF KEGENT. 97 
 
 convey tlie news of the arrival of the American squad- 
 ron, that the Japanese might be prepared to give a 
 warm welcome to the intrusive Yankees, about whose 
 reception there were all kinds of sinister rumors. 
 
 The day (Saturday, 30th May, 1853,) appointed for 
 the visit of the Eegent had arrived, and every thing 
 looked propitious for the occasion. The weather, for 
 two days previous rainy and unsettled, had cleared 
 up, and though the heat was great, the glare of the 
 hot sun was occasionally veiled by shifting clouds, 
 the shadows of which chased each other rapidly over 
 the beautiful landscape, varying perpetually the tints 
 of green which freshly colored the fields of rice, and 
 the rich tropical vegetation which covered the hills 
 and filled the valleys of the island. 
 
 Every thing was in readiness on board the Com- 
 modore's flag-ship, for the reception of the august vis- 
 itor expected. The marines were dressed up in their 
 full uniform of blue and white, and the oflicers had 
 turned out all their gold and lace, and glittered gaily 
 on the occasion. Shoi'tly after mid-day three native 
 boats were seen to put off from the coral reef below 
 N'apha, and they soon came paddling along in the 
 direction of the Susquehanna. There was nothing 
 very regal-looking about the craft, or any thing which 
 would seem to betoken that they were conveying a 
 representative of royalty. They were, however, well- 
 manned with some thirty oarsmen or more, and con- 
 tained, in addition to the Regent, a numerous suite 
 of various Lew Chew dignitaries and attendants. 
 
 When the boat in which the Kegent was seated 
 had reached the gangway, an inferior official stepped 
 5 
 
98 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 out, and coming up on tlie deck presented one of tlie 
 usual gigantic red visiting cards, which, in accordance 
 with, our own practice, was meant merely as an an- 
 nouncement of the Eegent's arrival. Mr. "Williams, 
 the Chinese interpreter, was summoned to do duty on 
 the occasion, and having perused the inscription, 
 which read, " The High Officer generally Superin- 
 tending the Kingdom of Lew Chew," the official re- 
 turned to his boat ; immediately after, that great func- 
 tionary, the Regent himself, or to give him his full 
 Lew Chewan title, the Tsung-li-ta-chin, made his ap- 
 pearance, mounting the gangway with the composure 
 that became so dignified and venerable a personage, 
 and assisted up the sides of the steamer by two of his 
 attendants. He was received at the gangway by two 
 officers of the ship in full uniform, and no sooner had 
 he put his foot on the deck than a salute of three guns 
 was fired off. The composure of the Kegent did not 
 seem at all disturbed by the exj)losion, but the equa- 
 nimity and centre of gravity of some of his suite were 
 so far unsettled, that they dropped upon their knees. 
 
 The party was composed of about a score of Lew 
 Chewans in all, one half of whom were men of supe- 
 rior station, and the rest subordinates and attendants. 
 The Regent was the most striking looking personage 
 among them. According to his own account he was 
 only fifty-five years of age, but his long white beard 
 and general venerableness of aspect gave him the look 
 of a patriarch of fourscore at least. 
 
 The Regent wore a red hatchee-matchee, as did 
 also some of the other higher dignitaries, while the 
 less distinguished officials sported the inferior yellow 
 
THE COMMODOEE EEVEALS HIMSELF. 99 
 
 caps. The various grades of the officers of govern- 
 ment are marked by the color of their hatchee- 
 matchees, the highest wearing rose-red ones, and the 
 lower yellow. 
 
 These Lew Chewan gentlemen, according to their 
 barbarian notions, thought it polite to remain covered 
 in company, until they had asked permission to im- 
 cap themselves. Accordingly, although they were 
 continually making the usiial salaams of clapping 
 their hands upon their brows, and bowing down to 
 the ground with a suppleness that showed evidently 
 that their politeness was habitual, — for such elasticity 
 of back could only be acquired by constant practice 
 — ^they kept their hatchee-matchees on their heads, 
 even after they had ascended into the state cabin of 
 the Commodore. They were, however, graciously 
 permitted to uncover themselves after a polite request 
 to that effect — a permission which they gladly re- 
 ceived, as the heat of the weather, and the excitement 
 of the occasion, seemed to have considerably elevated 
 their temperature, in spite of the active fluttering of 
 their fans. 
 
 The Commodore now for the first time revealed 
 himself to the Lew Chewans, having liitherto pre- 
 served the most profound seclusion. The highest dig- 
 nitary, however, of the kingdom having presented 
 himself with due state and ceremony, there was no 
 further occasion for reserve, as the Lew Chewans 
 were evidently impressed with the necessity of be- 
 stowing all that ceremonious respect their Oriental 
 notions teach them to exact from others. 
 
 After the usual preliminary courtesies, the Com- 
 
100 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 modore stated to the Regent, through, the inter- 
 preter, the object of his visit to Lew Chew. He 
 had come, he said, to remain in the harbor of 
 jN"apha until the arrival of the rest of his squadron 
 before proceeding to Japan. In the mean time he 
 desired the consent of the Regent for the officers to 
 visit the shore for the purpose of relaxation and obser- 
 vation. He would like, moreover, to have supplies of 
 fresh provisions, but would only consent to take them 
 on condition that a fair price was received in retui-n. 
 The Lew Chewan visitors were then invited to par- 
 take of refreshments, and shared with apparent gusto 
 in the cakes and wines with which they were served. 
 Pipes and tobacco succeeded the repast, and the Re- 
 gent, with great formality and politeness offered his 
 services to the Commodore in filling his pipe, which 
 were accepted and reciprocated. 
 
 All the demands of the Commodore were unresist- 
 ingly acceeded to, but with an air of nervous anxiety, 
 showing that the Regent was actuated more by his 
 fears than his desires. As he rose to depart the Com- 
 modore promised to return his visit at the Palace of 
 Sheudi, a notification which seemed greatly to startle 
 the old man. 
 
 On coming out from the interview, the Lew 
 Chewan party were conducted over the steamer, but 
 they regarded every thing with an air of stolid com- 
 posure ; the great guns, the groups of sailors, the lines 
 of armed marines, and the band of music, which struck 
 up a lively air as the Regent and his suite passed on, 
 did not seem to excite the least interest. Upon being 
 shown the engine, however, there was some apparent 
 
GOING ASHOEE. 101 
 
 curiosity upon their grave and unruffled faces, wliich 
 were ordinarily as unmoved as if wi'ouglit in bronze. 
 The Kegent and his suite, after liaving made the cir- 
 cuit of the ship from stem to stern, and deck to hold, 
 took their departure, being honored, as upon their 
 arrival, with a salvo of three guns. 
 
 One good effect of their visit, which was appre- 
 ciated by all on board, was the permission for the 
 officers to go on shore, a privilege they were not slow 
 in availing themselves of. Soon some thirty or forty 
 officers, with leave from their respective ships, were 
 off for a visit to the town of l^apha. 
 
 The town of Kapha commences from the very edge 
 of the surf-whitened coral shore, and extends along 
 for some distance by the water side and up the ac- 
 clivities of the surrounding hills. Tlie streets are 
 regular, remarkably clean, and neat-looking. The 
 houses are built of bamboo, covered with roofs of 
 red tiles, and surrounded with gardens, which are 
 inclosed within high walls of coral. These walls are 
 built up with great regularity, and surmounted with 
 hedges of cactus, from above the tops of which project 
 palm and banana-trees. The walled houses would 
 have a very prison-like look, were it not for the cheer- 
 ful and comfortable air given them by their pretty 
 gardens and snug appointments. 
 
 As soon as the Americans landed most of the in- 
 habitants, after having paused a while to take a glance 
 at the strangers, made off rapidly, in order to avoid 
 all communication. The shopkeepers quickly closed 
 their shops, and the street peddlers dispersed in such 
 haste that they left their stocks behind them. The 
 
102 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 better class of people, however, were not quite so shy, 
 and although they looked somewhat askance at their 
 visitors, stood still as they passed, and made them the 
 most profound salutations. Some of these, with their 
 flowing robes and long beards, made a most venerable 
 appearance, and had such a benevolence of aspect, 
 that the American officers felt quite disposed to strike 
 up an acquaintance, but no sooner did they approach 
 with the most friendly intentions, than these Lew Chew- 
 an gentry turned upon their heels and disappeared. 
 The different classes of people are distinguished 
 
 I I - 
 
 NatiTes of Lew Chew. 
 
 by their costumes. The highest wear the variously 
 colored hatchee-matchees, while the middle and lower 
 classes generally go bareheaded. The hair-pins are 
 also important indications of rank. The gold and sil- 
 
THE CITIZENS. 
 
 103 
 
 ver ones marking the superior, and those of brass the 
 inferior. The more respectable citizens, snch as the 
 
 Lew Chew Merchant. 
 
 jrerchants and the thriving tradesmen, wear, with the 
 exception of the colored caps, very much the same 
 
104 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 kind of dress in cnt as tlie dignitaries. Their flowing 
 robes are usually of grass-cloth, either of a gray or 
 yellow color, which are gathered in at the waist with 
 blue silk girdles, in which there is always thrust the 
 small pipe and the tobacco-pouch, for they are uni- 
 versal smokers. The hair is shaved on the crown, but 
 being allowed to grow to a great length behind, is 
 worn gathered up to the top of the head, where it is 
 fastened by two long pins, thrust lengthwise. The 
 lowest class of all, composed of the mechanics, peas- 
 ants, and laborers, have but a scant shirt-like cover- 
 ing of coarse cotton, while their children run about 
 entirely naked. 
 
 The women, of whom it was difficult to get a sight, 
 and whose appearance, when seen, was not such as to 
 cause any disappointment at their shyness — for they 
 were awfully ugly — were dressed very much like the 
 men. They, however, wore their robes of grass-cloth 
 without any confining girdle about the waist, and 
 were limited to a single hair-pin. They should have 
 been entitled to the full complement of the Lew 
 Chewan dress, for it evidently must have originally 
 belonged to the female wardrobe, as it, after all, was 
 little else than an expanded petticoat, while the long 
 hair and hair-pins were unquestionably of the feminine 
 gender. Somehow or other a reversed social revolu- 
 tion had taken place in Lew Chew, and the men had 
 assumed the petticoat instead of the women, as with 
 us, usurping the breeches. The Lew Chewan males, 
 too, seemingly had availed themselves of the feminine 
 privilege of doing comparatively nothing, while the 
 women were kept hard at work, daubing cabinet- ware 
 
•WOMEN-WOElCERg. 
 
 105 
 
 
 ^^^^'^^M^'^-'^'^ II - M ■■■III I. II . I --^5--, 
 
 Lew Chew Peasant. 
 
 with dirty lacquer, hoeing sweet potatoes in the fields, 
 and Tending coarse cheese-cakes and dabs of ginger- 
 5* 
 
106 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 bread in the market-place and at the sti'eet comers. 
 They had retained, however, that quality of the sex 
 which is believed to be universal from ITew York to 
 Lew Chew — female curiosity; for the women of 
 Napha, old and young, were observed peeping round 
 the lanes, and listening through the chinks of the coral 
 walls whenever they found a chance. 
 
 The American officers were disposed, with a natu- 
 ral curiosity, to extend their observations over the 
 island ; and, on their first visit ashore, a party of them 
 were tempted to ramble far out of the town. As they 
 passed through the suburbs, along the stream which 
 flows through the town, and over the bridge which 
 led into the beautiful neighboring country, with a 
 charming landscape on all sides, they found them- 
 selves dogged by a couple of very respectable-looking 
 Lew Chewans, who were evidently engaged in the 
 disreputable business of acting as spies upon them. 
 As soon as the Americans moved a step from the 
 beaten road, these sharp-eyed fellows beckoned to 
 them to keep the regular path. They might beckon, 
 however, they were not attended to ; and our coun- 
 trymen pm-sued their way, for, with feet accustomed 
 to step upon a land of freedom, they were not pre- 
 pared to go and come at any one's bidding. 
 
 The country in the neighborhood of Napha is strik- 
 ingly picturesque, with its surrounding hills rising 
 one above the other to the mountainous districts in 
 the interior. The sides of the hills are highly culti- 
 vated, with rich fields of grain, separated by hedges 
 of cactus, while the sheltered valleys are crowded 
 with a tropical vegetation of the wild orange, the 
 
BEAUTY OF COUNTEY. 
 
 107 
 
 banana, and tlie luxuriant palm, and the summits of 
 the mountains are crowned with groves of the dark 
 pine, throwing a wide and deep shade, like that of the 
 cedars of Lebanon. A well paved road, as smooth 
 and even as if macadamized, made of broken coral, 
 driven into the soil beneath, extends to the neighbor- 
 ing villages and the capital of Sheudi. This is bor- 
 dered by beautiful gardens, within the coral-walled 
 inclosures of which snug houses of bamboo repose in 
 shady groves. Along the road some horsemen were 
 moving briskly upon their little high-spirited Lew 
 Chew nags, out apparently for an airing. The roads 
 and bridges show a very creditable degree of atten- 
 tion on the part of the authorities to the internal im- 
 
 Lew Chew Bridge. 
 
 provements of the island. The bridges, in fact, are 
 quite respectable specimens of masonry, being massive 
 and scientifically constructed. 
 
108 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 But to return to the Commodore, who still re- 
 mained on board of his ship, with a resolute determi- 
 nation to carry out the purposes of his yisit, and not 
 to budge until he had secured those advantages for 
 his country which were evidently uppermost in his 
 mind. He had organized a party of his officers and 
 men to make an exploration of the island, who were 
 accordingly dispatched on that duty. In the mean 
 time the Commodore carried on his negotiations with 
 the Lew Chew authorities. He had made the very 
 reasonable demand to be furnished with a house for 
 the accommodation of the officers on shore, and had 
 offered to pay a fair rent. After some equivocation, 
 in accordance with the usual Lew Chewan policy, 
 this request was granted, and a building was desig- 
 nated. The temple at Tumai, a village situated on 
 the outskirts of Napha, on the road to Sheudi, was 
 the selected place, and accordingly an officer was sent 
 by the Commodore to take formal possession. 
 
 This building was what is called a Cung-qua, a 
 place of entertainment for strangers, and for various 
 public purposes. Although not so luxuriously ap- 
 pointed as the Koung-kouans or Communal Palaces 
 in China, the Comfort of which Pere Hue describes 
 with such gusto, the temple at Tumai was for a simi- 
 lar purpose. There were some thirty mats spread on 
 the floor, and waiters were at hand with tea and pipes, 
 so when the officer and his party arrived they were 
 hospitably entertained. Li a short time, however, an 
 official made his appearance, and although he showed 
 an excess of politeness by constantly bowing to the 
 ground, he declared, when he was told the object of 
 
Ajsr trNSDCCESSFUL EU8E. 109 
 
 the Adsit of the officer, that it was quite impossible for 
 the Americans to have a house on shore. By some 
 means or other this accomplished Lew Ohewan had 
 acquired enough English to deliver himself thus : 
 " Gentleman, Doo Choo man very small — American 
 man not very small — I read of American in book — 
 "Washington very good man — very good — Doo-Choo 
 good friend American — Doo Choo man give Ameri- 
 can man all eat he want — American no have house 
 on shore." The upshot of the matter was, that one 
 of the officers and the interpreter did sleep upon two 
 of the mats all that night, in the temple of Tumai. 
 However, on the next day, the authorities of Napha sent 
 word to the Commodore that they wished the building 
 vacated, to which they received the reply, that it would 
 be done provided another suitable place was substi- 
 tuted, but that the Americans were determined to 
 have a house on shore at all hazards, as such a privilege 
 had been granted to previous visitors, as, for example, 
 to the English, at the time of Basil Hall's visit to the 
 island. Another building, with the high-sounding 
 title of "Shunghein" — "The Holy Presence Temple 
 protecting the Anchorage " — was accordingly appro- 
 priated. The Lew Chewans were resolved to throw 
 every obstruction in the way of the Commodore by 
 their shuffling conduct and prevaricating pohcy, but 
 he was conscious of their manoeuvres, and was re- 
 solved to defeat them by his direct and resolute 
 bearing. 
 
 The expressed resolution of the Commodore to re- 
 turn the visit of the Eegent within the palace of 
 Sheudi, had apparently created a great deal of anxiety 
 
110 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 on tlie part of the authorities, and they eeemed re- 
 solved to prevent it if possible. They sent word that 
 it was contrary to all precedent, and expressly forbid- 
 den by their laws, for a stranger to intrude within the 
 sanctuary of the palace. Receiving no satisfactory 
 answer to this protest, the Lew Ohewans thought 
 themselves of trying a ruse upon the Commodore, 
 and made the attempt to entrap him into an informal 
 visit upon the Regent by preparing a feast at Napha, 
 where that dignitary would be present, and to which 
 the Commodore was invited. Just at that time, how- 
 ever, the Commodore found it convenient to attend 
 to the dispatch of the storeship. Caprice, for Shang- 
 hai, and sent word that " business unfortunately pre- 
 vented his acceptance of the polite invitation," etc. 
 The Lew Chewans, however, were not to be 
 balked of their cunning civility, and as the Commo- 
 dore would not go to the feast, they sent the feast to 
 him, and accordingly two ot the high functionaries in 
 yellow caps came off to the ship with a supply of 
 poultry, fish, vegetables, fruits, and cakes, all pre- 
 pared in the highest style of Lew Chewan cookery, 
 which were displayed upon the deck of the Susque- 
 hanna. The Commodore, however, kept himself se- 
 cluded within his cabin, and left the banquet to be 
 discussed by his officers and men, who found Lew 
 Chew fare quite appetizing, and soon cleared the 
 decks. The Commodore now informed the authori- 
 ties that his promised visit to the palace would cer- 
 tainly come off on Monday, the 6th of June, after the 
 return of the exploring party. 
 
 The demand of the Commodore to be supplied 
 
QTJEENS SICKNESS — A SHAM. Ill 
 
 "witlx provisions, on the sole condition of his paying 
 for them, was granted, after a show of considerable 
 reluctance, and, accordingly, a daily supply was 
 brought off by the natives to the ship, which was 
 duly paid for in cash — the Chinese copper money. 
 I^otwithstanding the primitive simplicity which Basil 
 Hall, in his romantic narrative, has been pleased to 
 attribute to the Lew Chewans, who, he states, had no 
 idea of money, it was found that they were sufficiently 
 acquainted with cash, of which they demanded 1750 
 instead of 1400, the Chinese valuation, to the dollar. 
 If this arose from their ignorance of the true value, or 
 from want of familiarity with the coin, at any rate 
 their ignorance told very much to the advantage of 
 their own pockets. These daily supphes were entirely 
 regulated by the authorities, who pocketed all the 
 profit, while the loss fell to the share of the poor na- 
 tives from whom the supplies were wrung. 
 
 The visit to Sheudi was the hardest morsel for the 
 Lew Chewan authorities to swallow, and they hemmed 
 and coughed, and tried to put it off by all manner of 
 imaginable deceit and trickery. The Kegent de- 
 spatched a diplomatic missive, beautifully inscribed 
 on a long roll of the softest of their bark-woven paper, 
 in lines of Chinese characters, painted in Lidia ink 
 with a camel's-hair pencil. The roll was inclosed in 
 an envelope, and duly sealed with the regal arms. 
 The purport of this communication was to persuade 
 the Commodore not to proceed to the palace of 
 Sheudi, on the plea of the illness of the Queen Dowa- 
 ger, who had received such a shock from the visit of 
 an English admiral, who had obstinately intruded 
 
112 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 Hmself witMn tlie sacred precincts of the palace some 
 two years ago, that she had not yet recovered, and, 
 wrote the Kegent, another such a visit might be the 
 death of her Majesty, the royal mother. The Com- 
 modore, in answer, expressed his deep sorrow for the 
 afliction of the Queen Dowager, and very humanely 
 offered to send her one of his skilful surgeons, who 
 would undoubtedly set the royal lady all right again ; 
 but as he took quite a different view of the case of 
 her Majesty, he did not believe that his presence 
 could act otherwise than favorably, as her mind 
 would be diverted by the novel sight of the Ameri- 
 can visitors. The Commodore, therefore, reiterated 
 his determination to go to the palace of Sheudi, as he 
 believed this reputed sickness of the King's mother 
 was all a sham. In fact, the youthful King and the 
 Queen Dowager were suspected, at times, to be no 
 more of realities than was Mrs. Harris, and to this 
 day, it is by no means certain whether Lew Chew 
 has any other than an imaginary family reigning 
 over it. 
 
 The Americans, in the mean time, made themselves 
 quite at home within the dominions of the putative 
 young King, and went about their daily business with 
 as much ease as if they had been in the ]S"avy Yard 
 at Brooklyn. The survey boats were out daily on 
 duty, the marines were going through their daily ex- 
 ercises on shore, the officers were skylarking through 
 the streets and neighborhood of ITapha, and the tem- 
 ple at Tumai was all alive with the busy doings of 
 the artists and the working men of the Expedition. 
 
CHAPTER Y. 
 
 The party sent by the Commodore to explore the 
 interior of Great Lew Chew, now returned, after an 
 absence of a week. 
 
 This island is far the largest of the whole group, 
 of which there are thirty-six in aU. Great Lew Chew 
 is thirty to forty miles long, and twelve to fifteen 
 wide. Situated between twenty-six and twenty- 
 seven degrees of north latitude, with a rich soil, a 
 delightful climate, and a mingled vegetation of tem- 
 perate and tropical countries, there can be no place 
 to surpass it in the prodigality of ligature's gifts. 
 
 The exploration had extended over one half of the 
 island, in the course of which nearly one hundred and 
 eight miles had been travelled. The course was, ia 
 accordance with the Commodore's orders, first across 
 Great Lew Chew to the east, and thence along the 
 northern coast, and back through the interior of the 
 island. The authorities had not been previously in- 
 formed of the intended exploration, but so much were 
 they on the alert in regard to every movement of the 
 Americans, that the party had hardly started when 
 they were overtaken, on the paved road which leads 
 
114 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJS^, 
 
 to Sheudi, by a portly personage, accompanied by two 
 younger officers, with, black beards and swarthy com- 
 plexions, and about a dozen attendants. These men 
 presented themselves as guides, but were evidently 
 very sharp-sighted and scrutinizing spies. A crowd of 
 curious natives had also collected and followed the 
 explorers for some distance out of the city of Napha. 
 The four Chinese coolie attendants having showed 
 eariy symptoms of breaking down under their loads 
 of baggage, the portly old Lew Chewan officer, who 
 seemed to be the chief in charge, was requested to 
 supply a substitute. Accordingly, four spry natives 
 were soon summoned from the neighborhood, who 
 came up with bamboo poles and relieved the coolies, 
 who were a set of lazy vagabonds, of one half of tbeir 
 load. 
 
 The Lew Chewan leader, whose title was Pe-ching, 
 or treasurer, was a venerable man with a snow-white 
 beard and most benevolent aspect. He, as well as 
 his companions, proved to be of inexhaustible good 
 nature. They were most tenacious, however, of their 
 particular functions as spies, and were always on the 
 alert, by night or by day. They clung to the heels 
 of the party with the tenacity of so many hounds, and 
 every attempt to shake them off proved fruitless. It was 
 useless to strive to tire them out by rapid walking 
 and the most preposterously hard day's work. They 
 would not be tired out. The pursy old Pe-ching was 
 led many a hard march up hill and down, and al- 
 though he seemed every moment in danger of giving 
 out, he always, somehow or other, recovered his 
 breath in time to save his lungs, and was never com- 
 
PE-CHmO AND SPIES. 115 
 
 pletely blown. He would, it is true, often express 
 his sense of all this useless fatigue, by a very significant 
 way he had of slapping his stout flanks, as if to whip 
 on their flagging energies, but he never fairly gave out, 
 as he was undoubtedly bound, to use a cant phrase, 
 to see the Americans through. 
 
 The Pe-ching, though nominally a guide, had been 
 evidently appointed by the Lew Chewan authorities 
 to act as a spy, and make a full report of the journey. 
 He faithfully performed his functions, and took good 
 care that his subordinates should perform theirs. And, 
 as if three were not sufficient, care was taken to re- 
 cruit the force at every stopping-place, so that the 
 party was constantly dogged by a full pack, l^o 
 sooner were all snugly quartered for the night and 
 supper over, than Pe-ching and his confederates would 
 pull out their paper, their brushes, and India ink, and 
 paint down line after line of puzzling hieroglyphics, 
 which were supposed to express the results of the day. 
 
 The scenery of the country was most charming, 
 presenting a beautiful combination of cultivated fields 
 and wild tropical vegetation. Green rice, in rich 
 growth, waved through the valleys, covering the 
 banks of the streams, and growing down to the verge 
 of the sea-shore. There was, in the various artificial 
 arrangements for irrigation, an indication of consid- 
 erable agricultural skill, and in the richness and abun- 
 dance of the various crops of sugar, corn, and millet, 
 signs of great fertility and wealth of product. Vats of 
 salt, showing an extensive manufacture of that article 
 of universal consumption, were frequently seen by the 
 borders of the rivers and along the sea-shore. 
 
116 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Village after village, as they were approaciied, 
 presented a succession of most charming prospects. 
 Here one was reposing in a beautiful vallej, by the 
 side of a running stream, with the green fields rising 
 from the water, and extending far over the undulating 
 hills which bounded the scene, and were cultivated 
 to their very summits ; and there another lay almost 
 hid away in groves of sago-palm and banana, while a 
 third closed the vista through a long avenue of waving 
 bamboo, whose bending tops united and formed a 
 natural arched hall, through the leafy roof of which 
 the sun's rays, as they passed, lost their glare, and re- 
 freshed the eye with a cool, green-tinted light, which 
 pervaded the shaded interior. 
 
 Bamboo Village. 
 
 The inhabitants of the village, under the severe 
 eyes of the corps of spies who accompanied the party, 
 were very shy. The women were especially reserved, 
 and would drop down their mats before their doors 
 and windows as soon as they heard the approaching 
 
SHY NATIVES. 117 
 
 step of one of the strange visitors, and if sucli should 
 slyly come upon tliem and take them unawares, they 
 "would immediately let go their spinning-wheels, or 
 leave any other household occupation, and either pros- 
 trate themselves imploringly on the ground, or run 
 away and hide themselves behind the screens or in 
 the lofts of their bamboo houses. One of the explor- 
 ers came suddenly upon a hut, in one of the villages, 
 in which there was an old woman and a girl of twelve 
 years of age, both of whom fell upon their knees at 
 his approach, and held up their hands imploringly. 
 A few friendly words, although in English, seemed to 
 quiet their alarm, and the explorer was about entering 
 the hut, with their apparent good will, when some of 
 the ever present spies came up and drove them away. 
 
 It was thus almost impossible to get a chance of 
 seeing any thing of the interior life of the people of 
 the country, for the inhabitants either ran away or 
 were dispersed by the spies, as soon as an American 
 presented himself. At night, however, when the ex- 
 plorers were lodged in one of the Oung-quas, the Lew 
 Chewan men, women, and children would throng 
 about the inclosures, and peep through the chinks or 
 over the tops of the walls, with the hope of catching 
 a sight of the strangers, without being seen by the 
 objects of their curiosity, or by the ever watchful 
 eyes of the spies. 
 
 The Americans found snug quarters in the various 
 Oung-quas, or government hotels, provided as resting 
 places for the officials at the public expense. These 
 are large wooden buildings, with bamboo verandahs, 
 and various compartments, separated by sliding par- 
 
118 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 titions, which, can be readily shifted, allowing the 
 whole interior to be opened into one large hall. Ser- 
 vitors were always in attendance, ready to provide 
 the necessary supplies of fowls, eggs, cucumbers, rice, 
 and tea, for the suppers, and to spread the mats for 
 the repose of the tired visitors at night. 
 
 Many of the Cung-quas are beautifully situated on 
 picturesque sites, and are shaded by the waving bam- 
 boo and sago palm, while their walls inclose garden 
 plots, regularly laid out, and adorned with flowers of 
 the white and red camellia, the scarlet and orange- 
 colored mallow, and the beautiful wax plant, all of 
 which grow naturally upon the island. 
 
 In the course of their wanderings, the explorers 
 were surprised by the discovery of an ancient fortress, 
 occupying a commanding position upon the summit 
 of one of the spurs of the central ridge, which extends 
 through the island. Its outline was irregular, but 
 with a general direction from north-east to south- 
 west ; and while some parts of it were in perfect pre- 
 servation, other portions were overgrown with vines 
 and shrubbery, and hardly to be distinguished from 
 the natural rock upon which it was based. Passing 
 through an arched gateway, the road led to a terrace 
 overgrown with trees, upon which stood a structure 
 of masonry, resembling a cenotaph. A flight of stone 
 steps conducted to another gateway, through which, 
 and a spacious vestibule, was an entrance to the inte- 
 rior of the fortress. The space was occupied by a 
 luxurious grove of trees, and at the farther end was a 
 private dwelling of respectable appearance. A flight 
 of steep steps, cut in the rock, led downward on the 
 
ANCIENT EUIN. 
 
 119 
 
 northern side to a grotto under the foundation of the 
 castle, at the bottom of which was a pool of cold, sweet 
 water. The place was completely overhung by dense 
 foliage, and inaccessible to the beams of the sun. 
 
 The material of the building was limestone, and 
 the masonry of admirable construction. The stones, 
 some of which were cubes of four feet square, were 
 so carefully hewn and jointed that the absence of any 
 mortar or cement did not seem to impair the dura- 
 bility of the work. There were two remarkable 
 points about the work. The arches were double, the 
 lower course being formed of two stones hewn into 
 almost a parabolic curve, and meeting in the centre, 
 over which was the regular Egyptian arch, with its 
 key-stone, as represented in the annexed outline, No. 1. 
 
 J^2 
 
 The other peculiarity was, that in place of bas- 
 tions, there were square projections of masonry, pre- 
 
120 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 senting a concave front (No. 2), wMch would catch 
 and concentrate the force of a cannon ball, rather 
 than ward it off. But this fortress must have been 
 erected many centuries before the use of fire-arms of 
 any kind could have been known to the Lew Chewans. 
 The Chinese attendants pretended to give the name 
 of the place as Ching-King, which are Chinese words, 
 signifying the chief or capital citadel. 
 
 !Nor were the ruins of the castle the only remnants 
 of antiquity. The travellers came upon several stones 
 of four feet in height planted in the earth, which the 
 natives termed ishee, but which appeared to be Urir 
 gmns, or emblems of the Phallic worship. The stone 
 of which they were composed was of a dark color, re- 
 sembling porphyjy. If lingams, their presence would 
 seem to indicate some connection of the island, pro- 
 bably at a very remote period, with India, where the 
 Phallic worship is a feature of the Hindoo religion. 
 
 In conjunction with these curious remains, the 
 face of a hill, behind where they were found, for a 
 distance of two miles, was quarried out with excava- 
 tions resembling the simpler forms of the rock tombs 
 of Egypt and Syria. The natives, when questioned 
 about them, replied that they were " the houses of the 
 devil's men," and seemed to hold them in no little 
 contempt. This, as the Lew Chewans are remarkably 
 reverent of the memorials of theii- dead, would seem 
 to prove that the tombs belonged to an earlier and 
 different people. 
 
 The explorers thus, day after day, travelled on, in 
 the enjoyment of repeated visions of the beautiful 
 landscape, where the wildness of nature contrasted 
 
VISIT TO SHETTDI. 121 
 
 with the most exquisite culture, and under the plea- 
 surable excitement of ever-recurring daily incident and 
 adventure, among a people both curious and novel. 
 They soon, however, were forced, as their time had 
 expired, to retrace their steps, and accordingly re- 
 tm-ned to the ships, where they prepared to partici- 
 pate in the coming event of the visit to Sheudi, 
 about which every officer and man in the whole 
 squadron was all agog. 
 
 On Monday morning, June 6th, at an early hour, 
 a dozen or more boats, launches, cutters, gigs, and 
 other small craft, pushed off for the shore, loaded with 
 officers in full uniform, the marines, with their bayo- 
 neted muskets, and in their gay dress of blue and 
 white, and the sailors, with their black tarpaulins and 
 their neat navy shirts. They were soon followed by the 
 Commodore, in full feather, seated in his state barge, 
 who, upon landing, was received, in behalf of the 
 Lew Chewan authorities, by Pe-ching, the portly old 
 gentleman who had accompanied the explorers, and 
 by the U. S. marines, who, forming into two lines, 
 presented arms as the Commodore passed between 
 them. 
 
 The procession was now formed at the village of 
 Tumai, on the outskirts of ISTapha, at about two miles 
 from Sheudi, with hundreds of the natives, gathered 
 from the neighborhood, looking on in the distance at 
 the novel show. First came a park of artillery, con- 
 sisting of two field-pieces, over each of which waved 
 the American flag, borne by a stout sailor ; then the 
 interpreters, succeeded by the ships' bands, striking 
 up a succession of lively airs, and a company of ma- 
 6 
 
122 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 rines, followed by the Commodore in his sedan chair. 
 This sedan chair was an extemporaneous affair, got up 
 for the occasion by the ship's carpenter, and although 
 it was somewhat rudely constructed, and not very 
 elaborately adorned, was altogether, from its size, a 
 more comfortable conveyance than the native kagoo, 
 the only kind of Lew Chewan carriage extant. 
 
 The kagoo is a mere box, about two feet in height, 
 which puzzles one vastly to get into, and to keep in 
 when he is there. The rider is forced to double 
 himself into all the folds his arms, legs, and the 
 extent of suppleness of his back will admit. He 
 is obliged to sit cross-legged, arms folded, back doubled, 
 and neck bent ; and then, as he is carried by a couple 
 of quick-moving natives, jogging along, he is remind- 
 ed, by the repeated knockings of his head against the 
 hard wooden roof, that all his packing has been in 
 vain, and that the contents of the kagoo are quite too 
 large for its capacity. 
 
 The Commodore, therefore, with a due regard for 
 his comfort, had provided himself with a sizable sedan 
 chair, which was borne on the shoulders of foiu* Chi- 
 nese coolies from the ship, with a relay of four othere 
 to divide the labor. On either side of the sedan 
 walked two marines as body-guards, and the Chinese 
 servant of the Commodore ; while, immediately be- 
 hind, several coolies came, carrying the presents, 
 wrapped in red cloth. The oflSicers of the ships then 
 succeeded, followed by another company of marines, 
 which brought up the rear. The number, all told, 
 amounted to more than two hundred ; and as they 
 moved along, with flags flying in the breeze, the 
 
AEEIVAL AT PALACE. 123 
 
 sword-hilts and bayonets, and the golden adornments 
 and bright uniforms of the officers and soldiers flash- 
 ing in the sun's light, and the bands playing a stir- 
 ring tune, they presented quite a cheerful spectacle, 
 which the Lew-Chew ans seemed to enjoy wondrously, 
 as they collected every where by the roadside, and 
 looked on with evident marks of delight — making 
 holiday of the occasion. 
 
 The road lay along a paved causeway, which led 
 from Napha to the summit of the hill upon which the 
 town and palace of Sheudi rose high to the view. 
 Along this road was a succession, on either side, of 
 fertile rice-fields and beautiful gardens, and as the 
 procession advanced, reaching the higher ground, a 
 fine view was obtained of the whole circuit of the 
 island. On approaching the capital, its houses were 
 seen grouped upon the acclivity of a hill, and almost 
 hid in thick foliage, while upon the summit rose high 
 above the other buildings, the fortress-like royal 
 palace. 
 
 The procession now passed, at the entrance to the 
 city, through a gate of wood, high-arched above, and 
 inscribed with certain characters, which signified 
 "The Central Hill," or "The Place of Authority." 
 Sheudi, the capital and residence of the putative 
 young monarch, was once the central one of three for- 
 tresses, each of which was the residence of a king, 
 according to the ancient tradition, which records that 
 the island of Great Lew Chew was formerly divided 
 into three dynasties. The ruins of Nagugusko are 
 supposed to be the remains of the residence of the king 
 who ruled over the north ; and another ruin, at the 
 
124 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 southern part of the island, called Timagusko, seems 
 to indicate the site of the fortress of the king of the 
 south ; while the palace of Sheudi, the seat of the 
 present monarch, was the fortified position of the dy- 
 nasty of the middle kingdom, which finally absorbed 
 the two others, and still retains its title of " The Cen- 
 tral Hill." There were three passages through the 
 gate — a central and two side ones — the former being 
 exclusively for the higher classes. It was through this, 
 of course, that the procession made its way out into 
 the wide and almost deserted main street of Sheudi, 
 which, bounded on either side by high coral walls, in- 
 closing the residences of the inhabitants, and intersect- 
 ed by narrow lanes, led to the palace. 
 
 A throng of officials, in their gay, flowing robes, 
 with wide sleeves, red and yellow hatchee-matchees, 
 with fans, umbrellas, and chow-chow boxes, being in 
 full toilet for the occasion, met the procession with 
 many profound salutations, and finding that the Com- 
 modore was not to be diverted from his resolution, 
 conducted it to the palace. This was an irregular 
 structure of wood, surrounded by a succession of 
 walls, thi'ough which opened arched entrances, at one 
 of which were two lofty pillars of stone, and a couple 
 of full-sized, rudely carved lions. 
 
 The Commodore, accompanied by his suite, was 
 ushered into a hall of no great size, and of no great 
 pretensions as to ornament or furniture ; it had, 
 however, a high-sounding title, if the interpreter cor- 
 rectly translated the characters in gold which were 
 inscribed at the head of the room, and which were 
 said to mean, "The elevated inclosure of fragi'ant 
 
THE eegent's QUAETEES. 125 
 
 festivities." The hall was partly screened off by- 
 paper partitions, from behind which it was suspected 
 that the Queen-mother, if there were such, was gratify- 
 ing her royal curiosity. The American officers were 
 conducted to seats, which were very like camp-stools, 
 and placed on the right of the room, while the Re- 
 gent and the other Lew Chewan dignitaries took their 
 position on the left. 
 
 After a ceremonious interchange of compliments, 
 the Americans were invited to partake of some re- 
 freshments, which were evidently very hastily got up, 
 and consisted of cups of dilute tea, dabs of tough gin- 
 gerbread, and tobacco. The Regent had evidently 
 calculated upon his powers of persuasion to divert the 
 Commodore from his fixed purpose of visiting the 
 royal palace, and, accordingly, no preparation had 
 been made for his reception. The Commodore now 
 invited the Regent to visit him on board ship, after 
 his return from an expedition he proposed to the Bonin 
 Islands, which would be, probably, in the course of ten 
 days. This invitation was accepted with many pro- 
 found salutations, and the presents being proffered, 
 which were politely received but hardly looked at, the 
 Americans, at the solicitation of the Regent, ad- 
 journed to that dignitary's house, which was not far 
 off, being situated in a neighboring lane which inter- 
 sected the main street. 
 
 There was nothing very regal about the Regent's 
 residence, it being a wooden house, of the ordinary 
 style of those of the city, with a court-yard and bam- 
 boo verandas, but rather larger in size. The in- 
 terior was plain but neat, with wooden rafters, 
 
126 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 painted of a red color, and its floors spread with 
 matting. 
 
 Every thing here was in readiness for a feast, and 
 no sooner had the Commodore entered with his offi- 
 cers, than they were invited to take their seats at the 
 well-spread boards. There were ten tables in all — ^fonr 
 in the central part of the hall, and three in each of its 
 wings. At the two upper ones, on the right, the Com- 
 modore and his chief officers were seated, and at the 
 same number, on the left, the Kegent presided, assist- 
 ed by some of the chief dignitaries of the island. 
 
 The tables were heaped with the choicest Lew 
 Chewan fare, consisting of a heterogeneous collection 
 of strange dishes, that no one but an expert of the 
 Lew Chewan cuisine, or some native Monsieur Soyer, 
 could possibly describe. Numerous dignified-looking 
 attendants, robed in long garments, were in waiting, 
 and commenced the feast by handing round cups of 
 tea, followed by earthen goblets, no bigger than thim- 
 bles, overflowing with sakee, the native liquor dis- 
 tilled from rice. These Lilliputian bumpers would 
 not have floored a flea. Then the guests, arming 
 themselves with the pairs of chopsticks at their sides, 
 commenced the general attack upon the spread be- 
 fore them. Surrounded as they were by an immense 
 variety, and without any knowledge of Lew Chewan 
 cookery to direct them, they made an indiscriminate 
 charge upon the bits of hog's liver and of sugar-can- 
 dy, the red slices of eggs and of cucumber, the boiled 
 fish and mustard, the fried beef, and the tender mor- 
 sels of various somethings, which, as there was no bill 
 of fare, it was impossible to tell what, although it was 
 
THE FEAST. 127 
 
 suspected they might be dog, cat, rat, or some other 
 choice viand. In addition to the dishes on the table, 
 the waiters were conBtantly bringing in a succession 
 of courses in rude earthen bowls, until they amounted 
 to twelve, eight of which were different kinds of 
 soup, and the rest were gingerbread, doughnuts, cab- 
 bage-sprouts, and an herb something like our calamus. 
 The Commodore, somewhere about the middle of 
 the feast, calling upon the company to fill their cups 
 with sakee, proposed the health of the Queen-dowager, 
 her royal son, and the toast, " Prosperity to the Lew 
 Chewans, and may they and the Americans always 
 be friends ! " This was then put into Chinese by Mr. 
 Williams, for the benefit of the ofiicial interpreter of 
 the Eegent, a sharp-eyed youth, whose name was 
 Ichi-raz-ichi. This young gentleman had been edu- 
 cated at Pekin, where he remained three yeai's. He 
 could speak a little English, but the Chinese was the 
 language used for communication. He had some 
 knowledge both of the history and Geography of the 
 United States, and spoke familiarly of Washington, 
 whom he called a " very great mandarin." Ichi-raz- 
 ichi tiirned the toast and sentiment of the Commodore 
 into the Lew Che wan lingua for the behoof of his 
 master, who received them with very evident marks 
 of satisfaction, and taking up his thimbleful of sakee, 
 drank it to its last dregs, and slapped down the tiny 
 cup bottom upward upon the table, to show that he 
 was a fair drinker, and a man above heel-taps. Sev- 
 eral toasts and healths succeeded, and the dinner hav- 
 ing reached the end of the twelfth course, the Com- 
 modore and his party took their departure, and, form- 
 
128 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJST. 
 
 ing in procession as before, returned to Tumai and 
 embarked on board sbip. 
 
 The Commodore now prepared for his visit to the 
 Bonin Islands. The pursers were sent ashore to set- 
 tle the accounts with the authorities of Napha for the 
 various supplies which had been furnished to the 
 ships, and to distribute some gifts, principally com- 
 posed of sili handkerchiefs and American cotton stuffs, 
 among various officers of the government. The au- 
 thorities, after some hesitation, were prevailed upon 
 to receive payment, and the Commodore congratu- 
 lated himself that he had established at Lew Chew, 
 for the first time, the practice of paying for provisions 
 supplied to foreign vessels. The daguerreotype art- 
 ists of the Expedition were fixed, with all their ap- 
 paratus, in a house on shore, ready to commence 
 operations on the strange people and picturesque 
 scenery of Lew Chew. An officer and two men were 
 also stationed on land, near where a tide-staff had 
 been planted, and were prepared to make observa- 
 tions, and the sick of the squadron were landed and 
 housed on the outskirts of the village of Tumai, where 
 they were kindly served by the inhabitants. 
 
CHAPTEE YI. 
 
 The Commodore got under way and sailed for the 
 Bonin Islands, on the morning of the ninth of June, 
 in the steamer Susquehanna, with the Saratoga in 
 tow. The steamship Mississippi, together with the 
 storeship Supply, were left at ISTapha, while the chief 
 officer in command, Commander Lee, was strict-ly 
 enjoined to exercise all possible kindness in his in- 
 tercourse with the people. 
 
 The Susquehanna took a southern course around 
 the extremity of the island. This portion of Lew 
 Chew, though picturesque, with its hillg and valleys, 
 did jiot seem to be so fertile or well cultivated as the 
 eastern and western shores. In the course of the af- 
 ternoon. Lew Chew sank beneath the horizon, and the 
 steamer held on her course, east by north, at the rate 
 of eight knots an hour. At first there was a light 
 wind from the south-west, which, however, soon died 
 away, but it was not long before the vessels came 
 within the influence of the favorable gales of the 
 monsoon, which filled their sails. Though the steam- 
 er had the Saratoga in tow, and used but three of her 
 6* 
 
130 EXPEDITIOK TO JAPAN. 
 
 boilers, she made nine and a-half knots. This speed, 
 however, was somewhat lessened afterward by a strong 
 current from the eastward, in spite of which, how- 
 ever, the progress, with the south-west monsoon con- 
 tinuing to blow, was very good. 
 
 There was nothing to interrupt the uniformity of 
 sea life during the passage, except a death on board 
 the Susquehanna. When Mr. Williams came from 
 China to join the squadron at Lew Chew, as inter- 
 preter, he brought with him an old Chinaman, who 
 had been his teacher, and who, it was supposed, might 
 be useful in future operations ; but it was very soon 
 apparent that the old man's race was nearly run. 
 He was a victim of opium smoking, which he was at- 
 tempting to abandon. The consequences of this 
 change of habit, and the effects of sea-sickness while 
 on board the Saratoga, during the voyage from China, 
 prostrated him so completely that no medicines had 
 any effect, and he sank into a state of nervelessness 
 and emaciation painful to look upon. For a week 
 before his death his condition had been most pitiable : 
 every joint in his skeleton frame seemed to be in per- 
 petual motion ; his face was a ghastly yellow ; his 
 cheeks were shrunk on the bones ; his eyes wild and 
 glassy; and his mind in a state of semi-madness. 
 Death, when it came, was a relief to the poor old man, 
 as well as to those who saw him die. 
 
 A more frightful example of the effects of the use 
 of opium it would be difl&cult to find. It exceeded 
 in horror all the terrible results of the excessive indul- 
 gence in intoxicating drinks. The last scene of this 
 old opium smoker was more horrible even than any- 
 
AERIVAL AT PORT LLOYD. Idl 
 
 thing exMbited in the course of delirkbin t/remens, 
 which is commonly known by the expressive distinc- 
 tion of the horrors. There was something revolting 
 also in the conduct of the Chinese on board the ship. 
 They manifested not the least sympathy with their 
 dying countryman. For a day or two before he died, 
 not one of them, with the exception of one of the 
 Commodore's servants, would go near him ; and on 
 the last night of his life, when two of the deck coolies 
 had been ordered by the Captain to remain in the 
 room, and were obliged to obey, they squatted down 
 in the comer, at a distance, and never once approached 
 him. Some of the quarter-masters gave him what he 
 heeded, and were with him when he died. 
 
 On the 14th of June, at ten in the morning, the 
 ships arrived off the entrance of Port Lloyd. The 
 Saratoga, which had thus far been in tow of the 
 steamer, was now cast off, and ordered to go ahead. 
 Soon two whalers hove in sight, one on each quarter, 
 and showing American colors, began to beat down 
 toward the Susquehanna, anxious, probably, to know 
 the meaning of so strange an event as the appearance 
 of two formidable United States men-of-war in those 
 remote waters. 
 
 On arriving off the harbor, a gun was fired from the 
 steamer, which summoned a couple of the inhabitants 
 of the island, who came off in a rude dug-out canoe, 
 and presented themselves as pilots. One of these 
 bore the appearance of an ordinary American sailor. 
 The other, however, who styled himself John Bravo, 
 was a native of the island, the first person born there, 
 according to his own account. He was an active young 
 
132 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 fellow, whose lank black hair, dark eyes, milk-and-ino- 
 lasses tint of complexion, and scant costume of straw 
 hat and sailor's trowsers, showed him to be a compro- 
 mise between savage life and civilization. He was 
 in fact the mongrel offspring of an English sailor and 
 a Sandwich Island woman. Under the guidance of 
 these two pilots the ships soon were safely anchored 
 in the harbor of Port Lloyd. This harbor is on the 
 western side, and nearly in the centre of Peel Island, 
 one of the Bonin group. It is easy of ingress and 
 egress, and may be considered as safe and commo- 
 dious, though of deep anchorage. The Susquehanna 
 and the Saratoga ran within the cast of a biscuit of 
 the shore, and anchored almost under the shade of the 
 fresh vegetation, which crowds with its luxui-iant 
 growth the hills and valleys of the island. 
 
 The Bonin Islands are situated in the Pacific, be-» 
 tween the latitudes 26° 30' and 2Y° 45' north, nearly 
 five hundred miles south-east from Japan, and over 
 eight hundred in an easterly direction from Lew Chew. 
 The islands were visited by Captain Beechey in 1827, 
 and were named by him as if they had then been first 
 observed. They were, however, known long since to 
 the Japanese, who called them Buna Sima, i. e.. 
 Islands without People. Beechey, however, took 
 possession, in the name of King George, and gave 
 new titles to them, calling the northern cluster Par- 
 ry's Group ; the middle cluster, consisting of three 
 larger islands, respectively. Peel, Buckland, and Sta- 
 pleton ; and the southern cluster, Bailey's, although 
 he himself has acknowledged that one Coffin, pro- 
 bably a whaler out of Nantucket^ had been before 
 
COLONY OF PEEL ISLAND. 133 
 
 him, and had give his name to this portion of the 
 group. 
 
 Commodore Perry, however, restored the name 
 of Coffin to the southern cluster, and took possession 
 of them in the name of the United States. The in- 
 habitants of the island have discarded entirely the 
 dignified titles of Peel and Stapleton, and call these 
 islands by the less euphonious appellations of Hog 
 and Goat. "When Captain Beechey took possession, 
 the date of his visit and act of appropriation were 
 duly engraved on a copper plate, which was nailed to 
 a tree. The plate and the tree are gone, however, 
 and the only evidence now of British possession is 
 the occasional hoisting of the English flag on one of 
 the neighboring hills, a duty that was originally dele- 
 gated to a vagabond Englishman who chanced to be 
 on the island. The flag is now merely considered as 
 a signal to be hoisted on the arrival of a vessel. No 
 foreign government is recognized by the inhabitants, 
 who declare that they have no need of any control be- 
 yond their own, as they say that they can take good 
 care of themselves. They have, however, since the 
 Commodore's visit, organized a government, under 
 the title of " The Colony of Peel Island," whereof it 
 was resolved that there shall be a chief magistrate 
 and two councilmen, to which offices Nathaniel Sa- 
 vory, James Mailloy, and Thomas H. "Webb were duly 
 appointed. 
 
 The islands of Bonin are high, bold, and rocky, 
 and are evidently of volcanic formation. They are 
 green with verdure and a full growth of tropical 
 vegetation, which crowds up the acclivities of the 
 
134: EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 hills, from the very borders of the shore, which is, 
 here and there, edged with coral reefs. The head- 
 lands and detached rocks have been thrown by for- 
 mer convulsions of nature, into various grotesque 
 forms, which assume to the eye the shape of castle 
 
 View of the Bonins. 
 
 and tower, and strange animals of monstrous size 
 and hideous form, l^umerous canal-like passages 
 opening in the sides of the rocky cliffs, have 
 almost the appearance of being hewn out with the 
 chisel, but were evidently formed in the course of 
 volcanic changes, when the rock flowed with liquid 
 lava, and found issue in these channels, which the 
 torrents that come down the sides of the moun- 
 tains in the rainy season have worn smooth by con- 
 stant attrition. Some of these dykes, or canal-like 
 passages, less affected by time and the washing of 
 the water, still retain their irregular formation, which 
 have so much the appearance of steps that the ob- 
 server, as he looks upon them, might fancy they had 
 been cut by the hand of man in the solid rock, for the 
 pupose of climbing the mountain. On the Southern 
 Head, as it is called, within the harbor of Port Lloyd, 
 
NATtTRAL PRODUCTIONS. 135 
 
 there is a very curious natural cave or tunnel, which 
 passes through the basaltic rock, from the Southern 
 Head to the beach on the other side. The entrance 
 has a width of about fifteen feet, and a height of 
 thirty, but the roof within soon rises to forty or fifty 
 feet, where it has so much the appearance of artificial 
 structure, that it may be likened to a builder's arch, 
 in which even the keystone is observable. There 
 are several other caves or tunnels, one of which is at 
 least fifty yards in length, and passes through a head- 
 land bounding the harbor. This is constantly tra- 
 versed by the canoes of the inhabitants. 
 
 The geological formation of the island is trappean, 
 with its various configurations and mineralogical pecu- 
 lia,rities ; columnar basalt appears, and hornblende 
 and chalcedony are found. Tliere are all the indi- 
 cations of past volcanic action, and the oldest resident 
 of Peel Island stated that two or three tremblings of 
 the earth, giving evidence of a liability to earthquake, 
 are experienced annually even now. 
 
 Wood and water can be procured in abundance, 
 though the former must be cut by the crew, and taken 
 on board the ship green. The water is obtained from 
 running streams, and is of good quality. Timber for 
 building purposes is rather scarce, and would soon be 
 exhausted if any increase of population should render 
 the erection of many houses necessary. The best 
 kinds of wood are the jamana and wild mulberry, the 
 former of which is very like the red wood of Brazil 
 and Mexico, and is very enduring. The vegetation 
 throughout the island is exceedingly rich. Tropical 
 palms abound in the valleys and on the acclivities of 
 
136 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJiT. 
 
 the hills, and give, with the irregular mountains, ele- 
 vations, and abrupt cliffs, a wild and picturesque as- 
 pect to the landscape. 
 
 The harbor of Port Lloyd and the neighboring wa- 
 ters abound with excellent fish, which may be taken 
 by the hook or net, although the places for hauling 
 the seine are few, owing to the coral which in many 
 parts lines the shores. The varieties of fish are not 
 numerous ; among those taken in the seine belonging 
 to the Susquehanna, there were but five observed : 
 the mullet, which seemed to be the most abundant, 
 two varieties of perch, the gar, and the common ray. 
 Sharks are very numerous, and, when quite small, 
 frequent the shallow places among the coral rocks, 
 and are there pursued by the dogs, seized upon, and 
 dragged on shore. 
 
 There is an abundance of excellent green turtle, 
 of which the ships obtained large supplies ; there are 
 also plenty of cray fish. The varieties of the testacea 
 are numerous, but none that was observed of any 
 rarity, and none edible except the chama gigas, which, 
 however, is very tough and indigestible. The family 
 of the Crustacea is very extensive, of which the land 
 crab forms the chief part, and which exist in every 
 variety of size, form, and color; one of the most 
 abounding is that which is commonly known as the 
 " pirate." This animal can be seen in every direction 
 near the shore, travelling about with its odd-looking 
 domicil upon its back, which it seems to have got 
 possession of rather by chance than from choice. 
 The '^ pirate " has no home of its own, but appro- 
 priates, whence its name, that which belongs to 
 
THE PIRATE. 137 
 
 others. It has a decided preference for the shells of 
 the buccina murex, and bulla, which have the com- 
 fortable proportions of an inch and a half or so in 
 length ; but if such desirable quarters should, by any 
 mischance, happen to be scarce, the "pirate " readily 
 tm-ns into the next most suitable dwelling of some 
 neighbor at hand. It is necessary that the animal 
 should have some snug corner wherein, if not to lay 
 its head, at any rate to put its tail, for the latter is 
 soft and requires constant protection. Thus, when 
 the " pirate " moves about, his head and claws are 
 always protruded, but his rear is covered with his 
 borrowed shell. It is still an unsettled question 
 whether this animal appropriates the domicils of 
 others by first rudely ejecting their living occupants, 
 or more considerately waits until a natural death or 
 some fatality vacates the quarters, and then takes pos- 
 session. The " pirate " is a voracious creature, and 
 seizes with great avidity upon anything eatable that 
 comes in its way. 
 
 The scarcity of birds, both of sea and land species, 
 struck every one as singular. There were not more 
 than four or five varieties of the latter, the largest of 
 which were the crow and the pigeon, the others being 
 of small size. There were but few gulls or other sea- 
 birds. On approaching the islands, some petrel were 
 observed of unusually large size and of singularly 
 brilliant plumage. 
 
 Among the quadrupeds there were found sheep, 
 deer, hogs, and goats, with an infinite number of 
 cats and dogs. The cats and hogs, having lost some 
 of their quiet domestic virtues, had strayed into the 
 
138 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 jungle, and being dignified by the inhabitants with 
 the title of wild animals, were accordingly hunted 
 with dogs. On Stapleton Island, the goats, which 
 were placed there by some of the early settlers, have 
 increased prodigiously, as have also these animals, to- 
 gether with the hogs, put upon the other islands. 
 Commodore Perry left on shore, on the north side of 
 Peel Island, with a view to their increase, two bulls 
 and two cows, and on I^orth Island five Shanghai 
 broad-tailed sheep, of which two were rams, and six 
 goats. 
 
 Peel Island is the only one of the Bonin group 
 inhabited, and it contained, on the visit of the Com- 
 modore, but thirty-one inhabitants, all told ; of these 
 three or four were native Americans, about the same 
 
 Inhabitants of Peel Island. 
 
HOW THE SETTLERS LIVE. 139 
 
 number Englishmen, one a Portuguese, and the re- 
 mainder Sandwich islanders and children bom on the 
 island. One Nathaniel Savory, a Yankee, is looked 
 up to as a sort of patriarch of the people, and he sup- 
 ports his position with proper dignity. The settlers 
 have cultivated patches of land of some extent, and 
 raise a considerable quantity of sweet potatoes, In- 
 dian corn, pumpkins, onions, taro, and several kinds 
 of fruit, the most abundant of which are water-melons, 
 bananas, and pine-apples. These productions, to- 
 gether with the few pigs and poultry that are raised, 
 Und a ready sale to the whale ships constantly touch- 
 ing at the port for water and other supplies. 
 
 During the few days the Susquehanna was at an- 
 chor in the harbor, three whalers, two American, and 
 one English, communicated by means of their boats 
 with the settlement, and carried away a good stock of 
 provisions. These are obtained ordinarily in exchange 
 for other articles from on board the ships, of which 
 ardent spirits is, to some of the settlers, the most ac- 
 ceptable. Were it not for the scarcity of labor a 
 much greater extent of land would be cultivated. At 
 present there cannot be more than a hundred and 
 fifty acres throughout the whole island under culti- 
 vation, and this is in detached spots, generally at the 
 seaward termination of the ravines through which the 
 mountain streams flow, and thus supply an abundance 
 of fresh water, or upon plateaux of land near the har- 
 bor. The soil is of excellent quality, and resembles 
 very much that of Madeira and the Canary Islands, 
 which are in the same parallel of latitude. It is ad- 
 mirably adapted for the cultivation of the vine, and 
 
140 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 for the raising of wheat, tobacco, sugar-cane, and 
 many other valuable plants. In fact, the settlers al- 
 ready produce enough sugar and tobacco for their 
 own consumption. 
 
 The few people who live on Peel Island seem hap- 
 py and contented. Those of European origin have 
 succeeded in surrounding themselves with some of 
 the comforts and appliances of civilization. In one 
 of the cottages there were observed several compart- 
 ments, and what with hangings from the walls of Chi- 
 nese matting, a chair or two, a table, a plentiful dis- 
 tribution of blue paint, and some gaudily-colored 
 lithographs, there seemed not only on the part of the 
 proprietor a desire for comfort, but even a taste for 
 luxury. 
 
 The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, as they are 
 now familiarly known to the sailors and traders, live 
 very much as they do in their native islands, and have 
 grouped together their palm thatched huts, which 
 have somewhat the appearance of one of their native 
 villages. The inhabitants, living a quiet and easy 
 life in a climate which is genial and wholesome, and 
 upon a land whose fertility supplies them, in return 
 for but little labor, with all they want to eat and 
 drink, do not care to change their condition. The 
 Americans and Europeans have taken to themselves 
 wives from among the good-natured and substantial 
 Kanaka women. 
 
 The Commodore was greatly impressed with the 
 suitability of Peel Island, from its position and re- 
 sources, for a naval depot, and a stopping place for 
 whalers and steamers, and accordingly made due pro- 
 
DEPAETUKE FOE THE B0NIN8. 141 
 
 vision for the possible future necessities of our gov- 
 ernment, by purchasing of Savory a piece of land front- 
 ing the bay. 
 
 After a stay of four days at the Bonin Islands, the 
 Susquehanna weighed anchor, and taking the Saratoga 
 in tow, as on the outward passage, sailed, on the morn- 
 ing of the 18th of June, for Lew Chew. On his re- 
 turn, the Commodore directed his course so as to pass 
 Disappointment Island and the Borodinos. The po- 
 sition of these islands was thus exactly determined 
 by observation. The former, which is supposed to be 
 the same as Kosario, was found to be a low island with 
 two detached rocks ; extending a cable's length from 
 its extreme point, and to lie in latitude 2Y° 15' north, 
 and in longitude 140° 56' 30" east from Greenwich. 
 The Borodinos were two in number, about five miles 
 apart, lying in a N". IT. E. and S. S. W. direction, and 
 appeared to be of coral formation. Trees of consid- 
 erable growth covered the uplands, which reached, at 
 their highest elevation, forty feet above the level of 
 the sea. As no signs of people were observed, it was 
 presumed that these islands were uninhabited. The 
 position of the southern extremity of the island, at 
 the south, was found to be in latitude 25° 47' and in 
 longitude 131° 19' east. The navigation in the im- 
 mediate neighborhood gave no indications of danger, 
 but there were no indentations of the shore seen to 
 afford safe anchoring places. 
 
 During the return voyage moderate breezes from 
 S. S. W. to S. W. had prevailed, with warm weather, 
 and as the wind ever since the departure from l^apha 
 had continued from the southward and westward, it 
 
142 
 
 EXPEDITIOK TO JAPAN. 
 
 Outer Harbor of Kapha. 
 
 may be inferred that the south-west monsoon extends 
 as far north as the parallels of latitude in which the 
 course of the ships laid. The Susquehanna and Sara- 
 toga reached, in the evening of J\me 23d, their an- 
 chorage in the bay of Kapha, where they found the 
 Mississippi, the Plymouth, and the Supply, which 
 had just arrived from Shanghai. 
 
 At Kapha, everything appeared very much as 
 when the Commodore had left. Those Americans 
 who had remained, had found nothing to complain of 
 in regard to their treatment, which was marked by 
 the usual courtesy, but with little diminution of the 
 ordinary reserve. 
 
 There was some surprise on finding that the ven- 
 erable Kegent had been deposed, and a younger man 
 substituted in his place. It was thought at first that that 
 
THE REGENT KESIGNED. 143 
 
 aged and respectable dignitary had made way with 
 himself, in accordance with the Lew Chewan and Ja- 
 panese practice. Whenever an official incurs the se- 
 rious displeasure of his superiors, he anticipates the con- 
 sequences by what is termed in Japan the Hari Kari, 
 which is a very summary operation of suicide. The 
 self-condemned criminal first rips up his bowels with 
 his sword, and then cuts his neck, by which he fore- 
 stalls all judiciary proceedings ; and although he loses 
 his life, which he would have done probably in any 
 event, he secures his property to his family, which 
 otherwise would have been forfeited to the state. 
 
 It was, however, a very agreeable surprise to find 
 that the venerable Regent had not been reduced to 
 this unpleasant necessity, and it was quite a relief to 
 the anxiety of all to see the old gentleman again, 
 though shorn of his honors, in the full possession of his 
 head and of his digestive apparatus apparently in its 
 original state of integrity. He had, it was learned, 
 merely resigned in consequence of his modest convic- 
 tion that he was too old to cope with the resolute en- 
 ergies of the enterprising Yankees, and a more youth- 
 ful and active man had taken his place. 
 
 The new Kegent, Shang-Hung-Hiun, among his 
 other honors, had succeeded to the invitation to din- 
 ner which the Commodore had extended to his pre- 
 decessor. 
 
 On the appointed day of the feast, three of the 
 ship's boats were sent off to the creek at Tumai to 
 bring on board the invited guests. Captain Buchan- 
 an received them, on their arrival, at the gangway, 
 and conducted them through the various parts of the 
 
144 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 sliip. The day was oppressively warm, and the visi- 
 tors found it so sultry between decks, and especially 
 in the engine room, that they were glad once more to 
 stand upon the upper deck. The marines were under 
 arms, and the band played to give honor to their re- 
 ception. When dinner was announced they were 
 ushered into the Commodore's cabin, and immediately 
 sat down to the table. The entertainment was, of course, 
 entirely in accordance with the European and Ameri- 
 can customs. The Commodore took the centre of the 
 table, with the Regent on his right hand and the chief 
 treasurer on his left, while the mayor of IS'apha and 
 one of the other treasurers were seated near the ends 
 of the table, where they were taken in charge by the 
 commanders of the different vessels of the squadron. 
 Mr. Williams, the Chinese interpreter, and Dr. Bet- 
 telheim, the English missionary, were present as 
 guests and interpreters ; while at a smaller table were 
 the Commodore's secretary, and the artists of the 
 Expedition. ISone of the Eegent's suite were allowed 
 to sit at table with him, but remained in attendance. 
 His interpreter, Ichirazichi, stood behind him. 
 
 The new Eegent was a small man, apparently 
 about forty-five years old, of more swarthy complex- 
 ion than any of his suite, and with a slight cast in his 
 left eye. He was remarkably grave and taciturn, 
 seemed to be perpetally awake to the novelty of his 
 position, having at times a restless and uneasy ex- 
 pression of countenance, and never spoke except 
 when he was particularly addressed. His dress con- 
 sisted of a dark purple or violet-colored robe, and 
 a cap of crimson. The treasurers, both old men, 
 
FEAST TO THE KEGENT. 145 
 
 with wrinkled faces and scanty grey beards, wore 
 similar caps, while their robes were yellow. The 
 mayor was attired in a robe of pearl-white grass cloth, 
 and had on his head a crimson cap. The hair of all 
 was put up with massive gold pins, and their girdles 
 were of rich Chinese silk. These various dresses were 
 presumed to be ofl&cial, and in their diversity of color 
 indicative of difference of rank. The inferior attend- 
 ants who stood behind these dignitaries were dressed 
 in blue and yellow, with scarlet caps. 
 
 Knives and forks were placed, in our usual fashion, 
 for each guest. The first seemed to be very much in 
 the way of the Lew Chewans ; with the last they 
 did better, and showed some dexterity in making 
 them answer the purpose of chop sticks. Turtle soup, 
 goose, kid curry, and various other delicacies formed 
 part of the feast, which was spread with bountiful 
 profusion. To the soup the mayor and treasurer did 
 ample justice. The cabin was sultry, and as the feast 
 proceeded the guests grew warmer, until finally they 
 asked permission to remove their caps, and this hav- 
 ing been done, the attendant of each, standing behind, 
 vigorously fanned the uncovered head of his master. 
 Punch followed the soup, and furnished them with a 
 new enjoyment. There were French and German 
 wines, Scotch and American whiskey, Holland gin, 
 madeira and sherry, and maraschino, which decidedly, 
 in their estimation, bore away the palm. They smacked 
 their lips and shut their eyes at each sip, and, in short, 
 showed but a very sorry appreciation of the virtue of 
 temperance. While they were thus pleasantly occu- 
 pied, the artists took occasion to sketch their likenesses. 
 7 
 
146 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 After feeding heartily on the substantials, they 
 asked leave to smoke their pipes ; it was of course ac- 
 corded, and the chief treasurer, after a few whiffs, 
 presented his, with the embroidered tobacco pouch at- 
 tached, to the Commodore. The mayor and other 
 treasurers followed his example by handing theirs to 
 the Captains Buchanan and Adams. There seemed 
 to be no end to the capacity of stomach in some of 
 these Lew Chewan officials. Preserved oysters and 
 other articles of food sealed up in America, excited 
 an admiration as boundless as their appetites. Part 
 of the dessert consisted of melons and bananas brought 
 from the Bonin Islands. These took them completely 
 captive, and they begged that they niight carry some 
 home to their wives. They were, of course, told to 
 do so ; and forthwith the loose folds of each one's 
 robe above his girdle were converted into a pocket, 
 and loaded with what it would hold. 
 
 When things had reached this stage, there was 
 but too much reason to fear that " the tide of wine 
 and wassail was fast gaining on the dry land of sober 
 judgment." All reserve was now fully thawed out. 
 Tlie quiet repose of a calm contentment sat enthroned 
 on the shining face of the jolly old mayor of Napha. 
 The wrinkled visages of the two withered old treasurei-s 
 flushed and expanded into rubicund fulness. The 
 Regent alone preserved his silent, anxious demeanor, 
 and all he drank was neutralized in its effects by his 
 excessive dignity. He appeared cordial and friendly 
 but once, and that was when the Commodore offered 
 him an assortment of American garden seeds and veg- 
 etables. These he promised to plant and carefully 
 
CLEANING OF THE TABLES. 
 
 147 
 
 cultivate. Tlie Commodore had previously landed, 
 as a present, cattle and buffaloes ; these he also pro- 
 mised should be carefully looked to and their offspring 
 preserved. 
 
 The band had been playing on the deck while the 
 guests were feasting, and when dinner was over the 
 Commodore ordered down some of the more expert 
 performers, to play solos on the flageolet, hautboy, 
 clarionet, and cornet-a-piston. The Regent listened 
 attentively, but the mayor and treasurers were too 
 busy in stowing away the fragments of the feast to be 
 moved by any " concord of sweet soimds." Coffee 
 was offered them under the name of " American tea." 
 Tliey did not relish it, and resorted once more to their 
 pipes. The attendants had not been forgotten. They 
 had enjoyed an abundance of meat and drink in the 
 steward's pantry, and relished it quite as much as 
 their masters. The feast at last was over, and the 
 guests were put on shore at Tumai, leaving the ship 
 under a salute of three guns. 
 
CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 All seemed anxious to get away from Lew Chew. 
 The picturesque interests of the island were for the 
 time being thoroughly exhausted, and the dull reali- 
 ties of life began to weigh rather heavily upon the 
 visitors. The weather, too, had become sultry and 
 excessively oppressive, for the heat had reached the 
 high degree of 88° Fahrenheit, in the coolest part of 
 the Susquehanna, while she lay at anchor in the harbor. 
 The Lew Chewans, moreover, had not apparently 
 been much won over by the blandishments of their 
 visitors. The supplies with which the authorities first 
 furnished the squadron had been gradually falling off, 
 and their consent to receive payment for them seemed 
 to be the principal change in their policy effected by 
 the long sojourn of six weeks. Some concessions, 
 however, had been seemingly made to the Americans, 
 inasmuch as the espionage was less public and intru- 
 sive, although it was suspected by some to be as alert 
 as ever, though more concealed. The Commodore 
 now mustered all his forces for the proposed expedi- 
 tion to Japan, resolving to postpone until his return 
 
THE STAET FOE JAPAJST. 149 
 
 the accomplishment of his ultimate purpose in regard 
 to Lew Chew. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 2d July (1853), the 
 squadron, composed of the Susquehanna, which bore 
 the Commodore's broad pennant, the steamer Missis- 
 sippi, and the sloops of war the Saratoga and Ply- 
 mouth, sailed from ISTapha. Each steamer took in 
 tow a sailing ship, and as all the vessels were well 
 appointed, they were probably equal to any emer- 
 gency that might arise, although the Commodore 
 had hoped to have exhibited to the Japanese a more 
 imposing show of his country's naval force. Twelve 
 vessels had been originally promised by the Govern- 
 ment, but this imposing number had dwindled down 
 by the remissness of the authorities at home, to the 
 very small force of four, all told. 
 
 On getting clear of the harbor, and stretching be- 
 yond the shelter of the south-eastern extremity of the 
 island, a strong wind was met from the east, and as 
 the steamers were deep, it was thought better to 
 stand off on the port tack, in order to get well clear 
 of the land, for the vessels in tow were dragging them 
 to the leeward, in spite of the power of the engines. 
 In the course of the day, as there was every prospect 
 of weathering the eastern part of the island, the squad- 
 ron was put on the other tack, and its course directed 
 for Japan. 
 
 The track of the ships, to the east of the chain of 
 islands which stretch from Formosa to Lew Chew, 
 and are laid down on the American charts as the 
 southern, middle, and northern group, has been sel- 
 dom traversed by modern navigators, and the islands 
 
150 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 on. the eastern side are entirely unknown to them. 
 The principal island of the northern group is called 
 by the Japanese Oho-Sima, and by the Chinese Tatao, 
 both of which words mean " Great Island." It is 
 about the size of Great Lew Chew, and has a chief 
 city, several towns, and a highly cultivated soil. A 
 current is said to be always setting from these islands 
 to the northward and eastward, or, as the islanders 
 say, it always goes to Japan and never comes back. 
 
 The third day of the voyage, being the 4th of July, 
 brought with it a lively remembrance of home, as it 
 was the seventy-seventh anniversary of our national 
 holiday. The occasion was duly honoi-ed by the firing 
 of a salute of seventeen guns from each vessel of the 
 squadron, and by the serving of an additional ration 
 of grog to the sailors, while the officers brought to 
 bear all the resources of their various means to give 
 due enjoyment and impressiveness to the day. The 
 holiday was realized in a respite from the usual mus- 
 ter at general quarters, and the exercises at the great 
 guns and small arms, which had been kept up with 
 great regularity during the voyage, that the squadron 
 might be prepared for any event on its arrival at 
 Japan. 
 
 At sunset on Thursday, the Yth of July, the squad- 
 ron was, according to observation, about forty miles 
 from Cape Negatsuo, or Idzu, as it is otherwise called. 
 The heads of the ships were put off shore from mid- 
 night until four o'clock next morning, when the first 
 sight of Japan was obtained from the mast-head. Al- 
 though the morning was fine, the atmosphere was so 
 hazy that there was but an indistinct view of the out- 
 
ENTERING THE BAY OF TEDO. 151 
 
 line of the precipitous coast. Tlirougli the mist, how- 
 ever, the bold promontory of Idzu could be seen ris- 
 ing loftily from the sea, and stretching back in a crowd 
 of mountainous elevations, while to the eastward lay 
 Tosi-Sima, Likene-Sima, and other islands of the 
 Broken Group, which are scattered along the coast 
 of Japan. 
 
 The course of the squadron was now pointed di- 
 rectly tx) the entrance of the bay of Yedo. It will bo 
 found, on looking at a map of Japan, that that empire 
 is composed chiefly of four islands, the largest one of 
 which is IS'iphon ; the next in size, Yesso, at the 
 north ; and the two smaller ones, Sikok and Kiusiu, 
 at the south. The Commodore had determined to 
 push his way as near as possible to Yedo, the capital, 
 situated at the head of the bay of the same name, so 
 he boldly steamed where steamer had never ventured 
 before, and was soon plowing the remote waters of 
 Japan, and looking with eager interest upon the 
 novel scene which surrounded him. The bay at the 
 entrance is hardly eight miles in width, but it in- 
 creases to twelve or more beyond. The bold head- 
 lands of the precipitous Cape Sagami rose on the left, 
 and on the right extended irregularly the mountain- 
 ous district of Awa. 
 
 As the ships closed in with the land, and as the 
 fog occasionally, lifted, a glance was here and there 
 caiight of the neighboring shores, that were observed 
 to rise in precipitous bluffs, which connected land- 
 ward with undulating hills. Deep ravines, greeu 
 with rich verdure, divided the slopes, and opened 
 into small expanses of alluvial land, washed by tlio 
 
152 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 In the Bay of Tedo. 
 
 waters of the bay into the form of inlets, about the 
 borders of which were grouped various Japanese vil- 
 lages. The uplands were beautifully varied with cul- 
 tivated fields and tufted woods ; while far behind rose 
 the mountains, height upon height, in the inland 
 distance. 
 
 The shores of the bay, particularly on the western 
 side, were populous with a succession of towns and 
 villages, picturesquely grouped in groves of pine and 
 other trees. The rising ground which came down 
 from the mountainous interior, abruptly terminated 
 at the water's edge in precipitous headlands, which 
 were crowned with white forts, more formidable 
 in appearance than in reality. The bay was busy 
 with trading-junks, sailing up and down with their 
 broad sails, or putting in here and there at the various 
 ports. 
 
COMING TO AKOnOR. 153 
 
 Tlie fleet of Japanese boats, supposed to be gov- 
 ernment vessels, pulled out into the stream, with the 
 apparent purpose of arresting the progress of the 
 squadron. The steamers, however, passed them con- 
 temptuously by, and as they moved along rapidly on 
 their course, at the rate of eight or nine knots an hol^r, 
 with all their sails furled, the Jaj^anese were soon left 
 behind, and in a state, evidently, of much amazement 
 at the sight of the first vessels they had ever beheld 
 impelled by steam. As the day advanced the sun 
 came out, dispelling the mist which had gathered 
 over the land, and revealing a wide prospect of the 
 distant country. Mount Fuzi was now seen rising to 
 an immense height, with its cone-like summit covered 
 with snow, which glistened brightly in the sun. 
 
 The ships, as they approached their anchorage, 
 continued sounding at every turn of the steamers' 
 wheels, and they moved on slowly and cautiously 
 until they reached a part of the bay off the city of 
 Uraga, on the western side. The anchors were now 
 let go, and the squadron was securely moored in Ja- 
 panese waters, within a nearer distance of the capital 
 of Tedo than any foreign vessel had ever ventured. 
 As the ships brought to, commanding with their guns 
 the town of Uraga and the battery upon its promon- 
 tory, two guns were fired from the neighboring forts, 
 and rockets were discharged into the air, for the pur- 
 pose probably of signalizing the authorities at the 
 capital. An immense fieet of government boats, each 
 distinguished by a white flag at the stern, with a black 
 central stripe and a tassel at the bow, came, in accor- 
 dance with the usual practice in Japanese waters, 
 
154: 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJS'. 
 
 hovering about the squadron. The Commodore had 
 issued orders that no one from the shore should be 
 allowed to board either of his vessels, except his own 
 flag-ship. Some of the boats, however, attempted to 
 get alongside the Saratoga, and the crews clung to 
 the chains until they were repelled with considerable 
 violence. 
 
 One of the Japanese boats was allowed to come 
 alongside of the Susquehanna, and every one on 
 board of the steamer was struck with the resemblance 
 of her build, as well as of the others, to that of the 
 famous yacht America. Her bows were sharp, her 
 beam broad, and her stern slightly tapering. Slie 
 was trimly built, of pine wood apparently, without a 
 touch of paint, and was propelled over the water with 
 
 Japiincse Boat. 
 
 great swiftness by a numerous crew of boatmen, who, 
 standing to their oars at the stern, sculled instead of 
 rowing, the boat. The men were naked, with the ex- 
 ception of a cloth about their loins, and were wonder- 
 
VISIT OF JAPANESE DIGNITAEIES. 155 
 
 fully stalwart and active fellows. Two persons, armed 
 eacL with a couple of swords, a Japanese mark of 
 official rank, stood toward the bows, and were evi- 
 dently men of authority. As the boat reached the 
 side of the steamer, one of these dignitaries held up 
 a scroll, which turned out to be a document in 
 the French and Dutch languages, ordering off the 
 ships, and forbidding them to anchor at their peril. 
 No notice was taken of this very peremptory sum- 
 mons, and the officer on the deck of the Commodore's 
 ship refused positively to touch the paper. 
 
 The chief functionary on the boat made signs to 
 have the gangway let down, that he might come on 
 board the Susquehanna. This was reported to the 
 Commodore, who kept secluded in his cabin, and he 
 sent word that no one but a dignitary of the highest 
 rank would be received. The Chinese interpreter 
 attached to the squadron tried to make this under- 
 stood to the Japanese, biit as there seemed some dif- 
 ficulty, one of the two functionaries in the boat, Avho 
 was the chief spokesman, cried out in very good Eng- 
 lish, " I can speak Dutch ! " The Dutch interpreter 
 was then summoned in the emergency, and a parley 
 ensued, in the course of which it was learned that the 
 two officials alongside were ISTagasima Saboroskc, the 
 Yice-Governor of Uraga, and Hori Tatsnoske, an in- 
 terpreter. As they insisted that they were the pro- 
 per persons with whom to confer, they were admitted 
 on board, and were received in the captain's cabin on 
 deck. The Commodore had resolved, from motives 
 of policy, to keep himself entirely secluded until a 
 personage of the highest rank was appointed to meet 
 
156 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 him, and accordingly communicated with the visitors 
 only through his subordinate officers. The Japanese 
 
 were now told that the Commodore bore a letter to 
 the Emperor from the President of the United States, 
 which he was prepared to deliver so soon as a proper 
 person was appointed to receive it. To this they re- 
 plied that Nagasaki, in the island of Kiusou, was the 
 only place where any such communication could be 
 received, and that the ships must proceed there im- 
 mediately. This being reported to the Commodore, 
 he sent back an answer declaring that he would not 
 go to !N"agasaki ; and, moreover, if the authorities did 
 not remove their boats, which were thronging about 
 the ships, he would disperse them by force. This last 
 piece of intelligence produced a very prompt effect, 
 for the Yice-Governor of Uraga rose hurriedly on 
 
THE GOVEKNOB OF UEAGA. 157 
 
 learning it, and going to the gangway, beckoned the 
 guard-boats away. In reference to the reception of 
 the President's letter, the Japanese dignitary said he 
 had nothing more to say, but that another personage 
 of higher rank would come next morning and confer 
 with the Commodore about it. The Japanese now 
 took their departure. 
 
 The presence of the Americans in the bay of Yedo 
 was evidently exciting a very lively apprehension 
 among those on shore, for guns were frequently firing, 
 signal rockets shooting up into the air, soldiers parad- 
 ing about the batteries on the various headlands, and 
 at night bells were tolling and beacon-fires were blaz- 
 ing and illumining the long extent of shore. 
 
 In accordance with the Yice-Governor's promise, 
 his superior, the Governor of Uraga, visited the Sus- 
 quehanna next day, notwithstanding the former gen- 
 tleman had said, at first, that he himself was the pro- 
 per person, and that it was against the laws of Japan 
 for the latter to board a foreign ship. But this kind 
 of deception is a recognized element of Japanese 
 diplomacy, and lying is an established function of 
 Japanese official duty, so it was considered as a mat- 
 ter of course, and the Commodore regulated his con- 
 duct accordingly. The Governor, who sent in his name 
 upon his gigantic red card, as Kayamon Yezaimon, 
 was a more imposing personage than his Vice, and 
 was robed in character with his greater pretensions. 
 He wore the usual Japanese loose gown, something 
 like a clerical robe, which in his case was of rich silk, 
 embroidered with a pattern of peacock feathers. In 
 the sash which girded his waist were thrust the two 
 
158 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Bwords of dignity, and on his head was a lacquered 
 cap, like a reversed basin, reminding one of Don 
 Quixote's helmet of Mambrino. "When he uncovered, 
 the usual manner of dressing the hair was disclosed, 
 in which the head is shaved from the forehead far 
 back, while the locks at the sides and above the neck 
 being allowed to grow to a great length, are drawn up, 
 and, being plastered and anointed with pomatum, are 
 fastened in a knot which is stuck to the bald spot on 
 the top. Yezaimon was admitted to an interview, not, 
 however, with the Commodore, who still preserved 
 his dignified reserve, but with one of his captains. 
 A long conversation ensued, in the course of which 
 he was told very much the same things as had been 
 said to his predecessor. He, finding that the Com- 
 modore was resolute in his declaration that he would 
 not go to Nagasaki, promised to refer the subject to 
 the imperial government, l^agasaki, it will be recol- 
 lected, is the place where the Dutch factory is estab- 
 lished, and where the Japanese desire to confine all 
 their relations with foreigners, under the same de- 
 grading restrictions as those to which the Hollanders 
 have, for the sake of a little trade, so long and so dis- 
 creditably submitted. 
 
 The Commodore had sent out a number of boiats, 
 well armed, to survey the bay, and as they proceeded 
 in their work, closing in with the land, troops of Ja- 
 panese soldiers thronged the shores and the batteries, 
 while fleets of government boats, with armed men, 
 under the command of military officers, pushed out 
 into the stream, with the apparent purpose of inter- 
 cepting the surveyors. The American lieutenant who 
 
SmtVEY OF THE BAT 159 
 
 led the survey party ordered his men to rest upon their 
 oars awhile, and to adjust the caps to their pistols, 
 that they might be prepared for what appeared to be 
 the imminent prospect of a collision. The Japanese, 
 however, observing the resolute attitude of the stran- 
 gers, sculled their trim boats fast away, and the Amer- 
 icans were left undisturbed in their labors. 
 
 Yezaimon having observed the survey boats busy 
 in the bay, expressed great anxiety, and declared that 
 it was against the Japanese laws, to which he was 
 answered that the American laws command it, and 
 that the Americans were as much bound to obey 
 the latter as his countrymen were the former. The 
 Commodore had everything in battle array in case of 
 a rupture ; he had cleared the decks, placed his guns 
 in position and shotted them, put the small arms into 
 order, overhauled the ammunition, arranged the sen- 
 tinels, and had done all that was usual before meeting 
 an enemy, l^ot that the Commodore anticipated ac- 
 tual hostilities, but that he was resolved to be on the 
 alert in case of an emergency, knowing that the best 
 means of avoiding war was to be well prepared for it. 
 
 The Japanese, on their part, were no less engaged 
 in busy preparation, furbishing up their forts and ex- 
 tending long stretches of black canvas to either side, 
 with the view of giving them a more formidable as- 
 pect, not conscious apparently that the telescopes 
 from the ships' decks disclosed all their sham con- 
 trivances for effect. The Japanese soldiers showed 
 themselves in great force about the batteries, glitter- 
 ing in their gay robes of bright blue and red, while 
 their lacquered caps and tall spears shone brightly in 
 
160 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 the sun's light. Numbers of government boats also 
 thronged the neighboring shores. 
 
 After the most provoking and tedious negotiation 
 vsrith the Governor of Uraga, who almost daily visited 
 the Susquehanna, and pertinaciously offered every 
 obstacle in his power to the Commodore's resolute 
 determination to be received by a proper personage 
 to whom he might deliver the President's letter, it 
 was at last reluctantly decided by the Government of 
 Japan that the Commodore's wish should be complied 
 with. Accordingly, Thursday, the lith of July, 1853, 
 was the day appointed for an interview. It was only 
 by the Commodore's urgent demand, and the threat 
 that he would carry the President's letter to Yedo 
 and deliver it in person, that the authorities were 
 prevailed upon to intermit their tedious and prevari- 
 cating diplomacy, and, after a delay of four days, to 
 fix the time for the reception on shore. 
 
 "I will wait until Tuesday, the 12th of July, and 
 no longer," were the emphatic words of the Commo- 
 dore, and on that day the answer of the Emperor 
 came, appointing, as we have seen, the subsequent 
 Thursday for the reception. 
 
 A small village, called Gori-hama, about a Japan- 
 ese mile south of Uraga, had been selected for the in- 
 terview, and accordingly, when the day arrived, the 
 two steamers were moved down the bay opposite the 
 place, and anchored in a position by which their guns 
 could command the landing. The Japanese had 
 erected a temporary building of pine wood, the three- 
 peaked roofs of which rose high above the houses of 
 the neighboring village. "White canvas, painted in 
 
PEEPAEING TO LAND, 161 
 
 squares, with black stripes, covered the building and 
 stretched a long distance to either side. Nine tall 
 standards of a rich crimson cloth, surrounded by a 
 crowd of variegated colored flags, were distributed 
 along the beach in front, while troops of Japanese 
 soldiers, to the number of five thousand or more, were 
 arrayed in line behind. The hills and country in the 
 neighborhood were thronged with people. 
 
 As the steamers came to anchor, two Japanese 
 boats sculled alongside the Susquehanna, and Kayama 
 Yezaimon, the Governor of Uraga, accompanied by 
 two interpreters, came on board, immediately followed 
 by l^agasima Saboroske, the Vice-Governor, with an 
 attendant. They were dressed in full official costume. 
 Saboroske was the dandy of the occasion, and shone 
 brilliantly in his loose robe of gaily-colored and riclily 
 embroidered silk, with its back, sleeves, and breasts 
 all covered with armorial quarterings, like a herald- 
 at arms. He had rather a comical look, as he went, 
 with his usual curiosity, poking about every where, 
 and with his cunning vivacity seemed, in his gay be- 
 dizenment, very like an uncommonly brilliant knave 
 of trumps. He wore, in addition to his splendid robe, 
 a pair of very short but wide trowsers, while his legs 
 below were partly naked and partly covered with 
 black woollen socks. His feet were encased in white 
 sandals, and his head was covered with the ordinary 
 reversed hat, shining with lacquer, and adorned with 
 gilded ornaments. 
 
 Every thing being now in readiness for the land- 
 ing, some fifteen boats left the ships, loaded down 
 with officers, marines, and sailors. One of the cap- 
 
162 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 tains, who had the command of the day, led the van 
 in his barge, flanked on either side by the two Japan- 
 ese boats containing the Governor and Yice-Governor 
 of Uraga, and their suites. The others followed in 
 order, accompanied by the two bands of music, which 
 struck up a series of enlivening tunes. A temporary 
 wharf of straw and sand had been built out from the 
 shore, where the boats now disembarked in succession 
 their various loads, and fell back in line to either side. 
 The marines and sailors were ranged in rank and file 
 along the beach, and awaited the coming of the Com- 
 modore, who was the last to set out. He now came 
 in his state barge, amidst the salvo of thirteen guns 
 from his flag-ship, and immediately after landing 
 upon the wharf was escorted up the beach to the 
 house of reception by his body-guard, the various 
 officers, the marines, and sailors who formed the pro- 
 cession. 
 
 Tlie Americans, it must be allowed, made quite a 
 formidable appearance with their force, which amount- 
 ed, all told, to nearly four hundred. The marines 
 were in full uniform of blue and white, and, with 
 their thorough military discipline, their neat mus- 
 kets, and glistening bayonets, presented quite an 
 effective appearance as they marched in front. The 
 Jack tars who followed, swinging in their nautical 
 gait, and dressed in their neat navy frocks and saucy- 
 looking tarpaulins, were fine manly fellows, and con- 
 trasted greatly with the effeminate-looking Japanese 
 about. The United States flag was borne by two 
 tall, broad-shouldered sailors, who had been picked 
 out of the whole squadron for their stalwart proper- 
 
EECEPTION ASHORE. 163 
 
 tions. These were immediately followed by two boys, 
 dressed rather fancifully for the occasion, who bore, 
 wrapped in a scarlet cloth envelope, the box which 
 contained the Commodore's credentials and the Pres- 
 ident's letter.* These documents were beautifully in- 
 scribed on vellum of folio size, and bound in blue 
 silk velvet. The seals were attached by cords of silk 
 and gold, terminating in gold tassels, and encased in 
 circular boxes, six inches in diameter and three in 
 depth, beautifully wrought of solid gold. The box 
 which contained the documents was of rosewood, with 
 gold mountings. The Commodore came immediately 
 after, in full uniform, flanked on either side by a tall 
 negro armed to the teeth — the two being the best- 
 looking fellows that could be found. The various offi- 
 cers of the squadron followed in succession according 
 to their rank, and thus the procession reached the en- 
 trance of the Eeception House, where the marines 
 and sailors halting, formed two lines, between which 
 the Commodere and his officers passed up and entered 
 the building. 
 
 The house showed in its bare timbers marks of 
 hasty erection, but it was handsomely adorned for 
 the occasion. The first apartment was a large re- 
 ception hall, spread with thick, soft mats of rice straw, 
 and its walls hung with cotton hangings, adorned with 
 representations of the crane — the sacred bird of Japan. 
 Along the sides were divans covered with red cloth ; 
 and through the centre of the floor was extended a 
 strip of red carpet, which led to an inner recess, 
 raised, like a dais, several steps higher than the outer 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
164 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 hall. This inner compartment was fitted up with 
 hangings of silk and fine cotton, upon which the im- 
 perial arms, consisting of the three leaves of the com- 
 mon clover joined together in a circle, were embroid- 
 ered in white. The Commodore and his suite ad- 
 vanced to the raised dais, and were conducted to the 
 seats which had been prepared for them on the left, 
 the place of honor with the Japanese. On the right 
 were the two princes who had been appointed by the 
 imperial government to receive the President's letter. 
 They were both venerable-looking men, with white 
 beards and thoughtful expressions of face. As the 
 Commodore entered, they rose and bowed, but did 
 not utter a word ; and, in fact, during the whole in- 
 terview they remained as silent as statues. These 
 dignitaries were richly robed in garments of heavy 
 silk brocade, interwoven with gold and silver orna- 
 ments, and made quite an efi'ective appearance. IS'ear 
 them stood a large lacquered box, of a bright red 
 color, supported on feet made of brass ; and on either 
 side of this box Yezaimon and the intei-preter, Tat- 
 snoske, took their positions, crouched upon their 
 knees. These prostrate gentlemen acted as masters of 
 ceremonies on the occasion, and moved about with 
 exceeding liveliness, notwithstanding that their hum- 
 ble attitude, which they preserved throughout, pre- 
 vented the use of their legs. 
 
 Tatsnoske having announced the names of the 
 princes as Todcb-idzu-no-Kami — ^Toda, Prince of Idzu, 
 — and Ido-iwami-no-Kami, Ido, Prince of Iwami — 
 there was a momentary pause, as if to give the 
 Commodore an opportunity to recover from the 
 
INQmSITITE JAPAIITESE. 165 
 
 effects of so imposing an announcement. Business 
 then commenced by the Japanese interpreter asking 
 if the letters were ready for delivery, and pointing at 
 tlie red box as the proper receptacle for them. The 
 Commodore accordingly called in his pages from the 
 lower hall who carried the documents, and they, 
 obeying the summons, marched up, followed by the 
 two tall negro guards. They were then directed to 
 place the papers upon the red box prepared to re- 
 ceive them, which they did, and the business of the 
 day was done. The Commodore, bowing formally, 
 now arose, and returned to the ship with the same 
 ceremony as when he left. 
 
 Yezaimon Saboroske and Tatsnoske accomj^anied 
 the Americans on board, and were readily persuaded 
 to take a sail on the Susquehanna up the bay. Yezai- 
 mon was always a great favorite with the Americans, 
 as, in addition to the usual well-bred courtesy of his 
 countrymen, he had a great deal of lonhommie, which 
 induced him to share freely in the good-fellowship of 
 the naval ofl&cers. With all his friendliness he showed 
 a gentlemanly reserve, and in this respect differed 
 from the Yice-Governor, Saboroske, who was pert 
 and rudely inquisitive. 
 
 Every thing on board ship was now shown to the 
 Japanese, and they exhibited an intelligent curiosity 
 about all they saw. While the engine of the steamer 
 was in motion they examined with great interest every 
 part of the machinery, and by their questions showed 
 a certain familiarity with the power of steam. They 
 asked, for example, whether it was a smaller ma- 
 chine of the same kind as the ship's engine which 
 
166 EXPEDITION TO JAPAW. 
 
 was used in America on those roads that are cut 
 through the mountains, evidently alluding to our 
 railroads. They wanted to know who first invent- 
 ed steamers, and what was the greatest speed they 
 reached. Upon a globe being presented to them, they 
 pointed out New York and Washington, and also the 
 various principal states of Europe, proving a very 
 accurate knowledge on their part of the geographical 
 distribution of the earth. The revolvers on board 
 pleased them particularly, and they asked to have 
 them fired ofi'. On the arrival of the steamers off 
 Uraga the Japanese left in their boats, which had 
 been towed at the stern of Ihe Susquehanna, and ex- 
 pressed great regret at taking what they supposed 
 was their last farewell. 
 
 The steamers being now joined by the Saratoga 
 and Plymouth, which vessels had weighed their an- 
 chors in readiness, the whole squadron moved up the 
 bay in line. A good opportunity was thus obtained 
 of seeing the country on both sides, and nothing could 
 be more beautiful than the varied scene of cultivated 
 fields, terraced gardens, groves of spreading trees, rich 
 valleys, green hillsides, and populous villages, which 
 presented itself as the ships passed along the shore. 
 They first passed to the eastern side ; then returned 
 to the western side, where they finally came to anchor 
 in a beautiful spot, which had already been carefully 
 surveyed, and was now called for the first time the 
 " American Anchorage." 
 
 Great consternation was created on land by this 
 movement; but although the soldiers thronged the 
 numerous batteries, a,nd the government boats pulled 
 
SAIL UP THE BAT. 167 
 
 out into the bay, there was no attempt to interfere 
 forcibly with the squadron. Yezaimon and Tatsnoske, 
 however, as soon as the anchors were dropped, sculled 
 up alongside the Susquehanna in great haste, and hur- 
 ried aboard, asking anxiously, " Why do your ships 
 anchor here ? " They were, however soon quieted 
 when they discovered that all they ha.d to say was 
 not likely to produce much effect upon the Commo- 
 dore, who merely told them that as he was to return 
 in the spring, he wished to obtain a good anchorage 
 for his vessels. After a few words of protest on the 
 one side and explanation on the other, the whole mat- 
 ter dropped, and was very agreeably relieved by the 
 entrance of a supply of refreshments. Yezaimon was 
 always prepared to take his part in any conviviality 
 on hand, and seemed now to enjoy keenly the ship's 
 biscuit, the ham and cold tongue, and especially the 
 whiskey. As the Japanese rose to go, they crammed 
 into their spacious sleeves pieces of the bread and ham, 
 and other remnants of the feast, and took leave in the 
 most courtly and friendly manner. 
 
 The Commodore on the next day transferred his 
 flag to the Mississippi, and pushed his way to a dis- 
 tance within seven miles of Tedo, so near, in fact, 
 that he could distinctly see the suburb, although not 
 the capital itself, for a projecting promontory hid it 
 from view. There was no interruption to the progress 
 of the steamer, but evidently great interest excited on 
 shore, as the inhabitants crowded down to the water's 
 edge in multitudes, and the troops thronged about the 
 batteries. On the Mississippi returning to her an- 
 chorage, Yezaimon came on board, bringing with 
 
168 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 him some presents for tlie Commodore, of no great 
 value, but interesting as specimens of Japanese work- 
 manship. There were a few wooden cups beautifully- 
 polished with their famous lacquer, some pieces of 
 fine silks, and several grotesquely ornamented fans. 
 These were only accepted on the condition that some- 
 thing of at least equal value should be received in re- 
 turn, which, after some demur on the part of Yezai- 
 mon, was finally complied with. As the squadron 
 was to leave the bay of Yedo next day, Yezaimon 
 and Tatsnoske expressed their regret that the time 
 for parting with their American friends had ar- 
 rived. They did their best, however, to drown their 
 grief in the abundant supplies of wine and whiskey 
 which circulated on the occasion. Yezaimon grew, un- 
 der the influence of the champagne exceedingly affec- 
 tionate, and very pathetically declared that, when his 
 good friends should leave, he would be under the ne- 
 cessity of relieving himself by a gush of tears. 
 
 Tatsnoske became rather confidential than tender, 
 and hinted, with a very knowing look and a diplo- 
 matic whisper, that all would be well, as he could 
 aver on the best authority, with the President's letter. 
 When these jovial Japanese took their leave, they 
 shook every man's hand within reach, and reluctantly 
 descended into their boat, bowing at every step. They 
 had no sooner squatted on their mats than Yezaimon 
 ordered one of the cases of wine, which had been pre- 
 sented to him by the Commodore, to be opened, and 
 taking out a bottle, drank a health to his American 
 friends. 
 
 On the next morning (Sunday, July 17th, 1853), 
 
EESTTLT OF FIRST VISIT. 169 
 
 the Commodore set sail for ]N"aplia, having spent just 
 seventeen days in the bay of Yedo. It was his 
 intention to return the ensuing spring to receive 
 an answer to the President's letter, and commence 
 those negotiations with the Japan government, which 
 he hoped might lead to a satisfactory treaty. 
 
 Judged by the ordinary relations between civil- 
 ized nations, the result of the proceedings on this the 
 first visit of the Commodore, was not remarkable, but 
 when considered in reference to the exclusive policy 
 of Japan, there was some reason for congratidation. 
 The justice of the Commodore's demand to be re- 
 ceived "as befitted the envoy of a great nation, had 
 been acknowledged by the imperial government in 
 a document which contained these remarkable words, 
 " As it has been observed that the Admiral,* in his 
 quality of ambassador of the President, would feel him- 
 self insulted by a refusal to receive the letter at this 
 place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, 
 the above-mentioned letter is hereby received, in op- 
 position to the Japanese laws.^'' In this striking 
 phrase, " in opposition, c&c," Japan herself has em- 
 phatically recorded the American triumph. The Ja- 
 panese had broken their own code of sollisli exclu- 
 siveness to obey the universal law of hospitality. 
 
 * The Commodore was called by this title in all his official relations 
 ■\vith the Japanese. 
 
CHAPTEE YIII. 
 
 As the departure of the Americans from the Bay 
 of Yedo was a great event, crowds of people gathered 
 on both shores, and the soldiers thronging out of the 
 batteries, hurried to the loftiest summits of the rising 
 ground, while boats pushed off into the stream in hun- 
 dreds, to catch a glance of the passing vessels. The 
 morning was fine, and the appearance of the four 
 ships (the two steamers having the two sail vessels in 
 tow), moving on, without a yard of canvas set, in stately 
 procession, succeeding each other in regular line, was 
 imposing and novel to the Japanese, unfamiliar with 
 the power of steam. 
 
 The squadron, steaming rapidly out of the bay, 
 soon left in the distance the lofty summit of Mount 
 Fusi, and the mountainous coast of the province of 
 Awa, and came up with the long chain of islands, 
 which extend out into the ocean from the mouth of 
 the Bay of Yedo. There was Oo-Sima, with its hiUs 
 rising to the clouds, Yulcan Island, with its scarred ribs 
 and volcanic summit, Fatsicio, the Japanese Botany 
 Bay, and a large number of other islands, presenting 
 themselves in constant succession as the ships moved 
 
ISLANDS OFF JAPAN. ITl 
 
 on. Some of these not being laid down in his charts, 
 the Commodore took the usual privilege of navigators, 
 and gave them names of his own. One island was 
 called after the steamer Mississippi, a cluster of rocks 
 received the name of the Susquehanna, and the Ply- 
 mouth and Saratoga each came in for a share of the 
 same honor. These islands are mostly marked with 
 the usual features of volcanic origin, having a round- 
 ed contour, with summits rising into cones, sides 
 scarred with currents of lava, and bases surrounded 
 by detached rocks. A rich vegetation has, however, 
 thrown its green mantle over the sides of some of the 
 islands, and gives them a look of verdant beauty, 
 which greatly contrasts with the fire-blasted surface 
 of others. 
 
 On the day after the departure from Tedo Bay, 
 the wind, which had been steadily blowing from the 
 east to E. S. E., began to increase with such force as 
 made it necessary to cast off the two sloops of war, 
 which, the commander^ having been ordered by 
 signal to proceed to the duty previously assigned 
 them, then parted company. The Saratoga was to 
 proceed immediately to Shanghai, and the Plymouth, 
 after the western shores of Oho-Sima had been exam- 
 ined, was to make her way to Lew Chew. 
 
 After the sailing ships had been cast off, the wind 
 gradually increased to a strong gale. The two steam- 
 ers were now hove to on the port tack, and all made 
 snug by sending down the top-masts and securing 
 the great guns by strong lashings. The wind being 
 at east by south, beating up an ugly sea, the Susque- 
 hanna rolled very deeply, but otherwise made toler- 
 
172 EXPEDITION TO JAPAIT. 
 
 able weather. The Mississippi apparently was doing 
 better, but nevertheless lost two of her boats during 
 the gale. The storm did not begin to abate until the 
 third day, when the Commodore continued his course 
 without delay for ISTapha, where he arrived at noon on 
 Monday (25th of July). 
 
 They had not escaped the severe weather at Lew 
 Chew. The storeship Supply, which had remained 
 while the squadron proceeded to Japan, was found 
 still rolling like a great log in the swell of the bay, 
 and the officers stated that the storm had blown with 
 great violence on land and on water, and had con- 
 tinued for several days. During the Commodore's 
 absence the natives had evinced no unfriendly feeling 
 to the Americans, but continued as before, very re- 
 served in their intercourse, and tenacious of their sys- 
 tem of espionage. Supplies of provisions, however, 
 had been regularly furnished, and payment received, 
 through the agency of the English missionary. Dr. 
 Bettelheim. 
 
 The Commodore promptly commenced negotia- 
 tions with the Lew Chewan authorities, and, after 
 several tedious conferences, in the course of which the 
 Eegent and his subordinate officials put into play their 
 usual system of prevarication and deceit, succeeded 
 in effecting his purpose. In accordance with the 
 Commodore's demand, a building for the storage of 
 coal was granted, for which it was agreed to pay a 
 rent of ten dollars a month ; the privilege was accord- 
 ed to the Americans of making purchases, the authori- 
 ties intermitted somewhat of their surveillance, and the 
 natives themselves became less reserved in intercourse. 
 
EETUEN TO LEW CHEW. 173 
 
 It had been agreed, as the Mayor of Kapha so 
 earnestly insisted that the market-people, particularly 
 the women, were averse to traffic with strangers, that 
 a bazaar should be opened for the sale of the various 
 products of the country, in one of the Cung-quas. 
 Accordingly, at six o'clock on the morning of the 
 steamer's departure (Monday, August 1st), the bazaar 
 opened with a motley display of lacquered cups, plates, 
 and boxes, pieces of grass-cloth, cotton and silk sashes, 
 straw sandals, hair-pins of brass and silver, fans, chow- 
 chow boxes (something like our Sandwich cases), 
 smoking pipes, composed of small metal bowls with 
 stems of reed, and a plentiful supply of tobacco. 
 Ichirazichi, the Regent's interpreter, presided as the 
 Mercury on the occasion, and went about busily per- 
 forming his functions as general broker. A hundred 
 dollars or more was spent by the several parties from 
 the ships. 
 
 As the demand increased it was found, in accord- 
 ance with the usual law of trade, that the supply 
 augmented, and the Lew Chew merchants were not 
 backward in illustrating this principle of political 
 economy. The prices were not very heavy at first, 
 but the natives, in the course of the business, began to 
 improve in this particular, and it was found that some 
 had paid at least double the sum paid by others for a 
 similar article. The objects obtained were of not 
 much importance, but the chief interest of the occa- 
 sion arose from the fact that this dealing with foreign- 
 ers was the first authorized, and was in direct opposi- 
 tion to a fundamental law of the island, the abroga- 
 tion of which cannot but result in the greatest "advan- 
 
174: EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 tage to the people of Lew Ohew. The signal of 
 departure being hoisted, the purchasers returned 
 to their respective ships, and at eight o'clock in the 
 morning (August 1), the Commodore started, with 
 the Susqehanna and Mississippi, for Hong Kong, leav- 
 ing the Plymouth at Lew Chew to keep up relations 
 with the people until his return. 
 
 On the second evening after leaving Kapha, a 
 sail was seen ahead in the distance, steering in a 
 north-easterly direction. On coming up with her, 
 she proved to be the Vandalia, on her passage to Lew 
 Chew to join the squadron, having been sent out 
 from the United States for that purpose. She was now 
 ordered back to Hong Kong, the last port from which 
 she had sailed'j and where she had left the steamer 
 Powhattan, which had also lately arrived from the 
 United States, on her way to Lew Chew to join the 
 force of Commodore Perry. 
 
 The steamers arrived at Hong Kong on Sunday 
 (August Y, 1853), but the Vandalia did not arrive un- 
 til a week after. The Powhattan was found, much 
 to the disappointment of the Commodore, to have left 
 for ISTapha, and as she had taken the Formosa pas- 
 sage, the chance of intercepting her had been lost. 
 She did not return to Hong Kong until the 25th of 
 August, having been detained at Lew Chew for re- 
 pairs to her machinery, which had been necessary at 
 every port she had touched, and which accordingly 
 had much delayed her voyage from the United 
 States. 
 
 As the typhoon season was approaching, and the 
 ships aU required a general overhauling, and the 
 
BTATIONED AT MACAO, 175 
 
 crews some relaxation, the Commodore determined 
 to give Ms vessels a thorongh refitment. As the 
 American merchants had asked for protection for 
 their lives and property, supposed to be endangered 
 by the prospect of the revolution in China extending 
 to Canton, the Commodore sent the storeship Supply 
 to the anchorage opposite the city, while the Missis- 
 sippi was stationed off Whampoa, to protect the 
 American shipping at that point, not only from any 
 revolutionary disturbance that might arise, but also 
 from the pirates. 
 
 The rest of the squadron were ordered to Cum- 
 sing-mon, a port lying between Hong Kong and Ma- 
 cao, and which is not only the most commodious and 
 healthful of the various harbors in that neighborhood, 
 but as it is the rendezvous of the opium vessels be- 
 longing to the merchants of Canton, has the advan- 
 tage of constant communication with the surrounding 
 towns. 
 
 The Commodore had provided himself with a 
 house at Macao, where he established, under his su- 
 pervision, the surveyors and artists of the expedition, 
 who set to work to complete their hydrographical re- 
 ports, maps, and drawings. 
 
 A hospital was also established at Macao, under 
 the superintendence of the fleet surgeon, which soon 
 had a goodly number of inmates sent from the differ- 
 ent ships. Hardly an officer or man escaped an at- 
 tack of fever, of more or less severity. Macao had 
 hitherto been considered a remarkably healthful place, 
 and chosen as the usual summer resort of families from 
 Canton and Hong Kong. The epidemic, however, of 
 
176 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 1853, proved that it was not always to be free from 
 those severe inflictions of disease, to which the cities 
 and towns of the East are so exposed. 
 
 While Macao was so unhealthy. Canton was com- 
 paratively wholesome. In fact, the latter is jnstly 
 considered a healthful place when compared with 
 other cities in the neighborhood, notwithstanding its 
 population is constantly exposed to the miasm arising 
 from the rice-fields which surround Canton. The offi- 
 cers and crew of the Supply, stationed off the city, 
 remained perfectly healthy, in spite of the marshy 
 country, and although the town itself was, as is usual 
 in certain seasons, overflowed by the rising of the 
 river, and the public garden of the Factories was 
 covered with water. 
 
 "With this apparent cause of disease, together with 
 an immense population, narrow and filthy streets, iU- 
 ventilated and crowded houses, and uncleanliness of 
 person, it is impossible to account for the healthful- 
 ness of Canton. It has been attributed by some to 
 the quantity of wood consumed as fuel, which, how- 
 ever, is no greater than that of other cities, as New 
 Orleans for example, which does not escape the effects 
 of malaria, and by others to the abstemiousness of the 
 people. 
 
 As for the abstemiousness of the Chinese, this is 
 only a virtue of necessity, as they seem to be fond 
 enough of flesh and all sorts of food, however gross, 
 when they can get it. The poorer classes are accus- 
 tomed to the use of boiled rice only, mixed with 
 small proportions of dried fish, and occasionally with 
 some simple condiments, and they consume enormeus 
 
THE CHINESE GLUTTONS. 177 
 
 quantities, if they have the means of procuring it. 
 Dogs and cats, which are carried about the streets 
 for sale, must be considered delicacies above the 
 reach of the poorer classes, judging from the prices 
 demanded for them. Rats, mice, and other vermin, 
 are also eagerly sought after, and are made up into 
 various savory dishes. To the families belonging to 
 the fast boats attached to the ship, a good fat rat was 
 one of the most acceptable of presents, which they 
 cooked and served up with their rice, making a dish 
 very much like the French one of Poulet-au-riz in 
 appearance ; but as for the taste, that question must 
 be referred to the Chinese authorities, as no Ameri- 
 can or European has yet been found, it is believed, 
 to test it by actual experiment. 
 
 Those Chinese employed in the ships of the squad- 
 ron have always found the navy ration insuflficient to 
 satisfy their gluttony, notwithstanding that of the 
 United States vessels is far more abundant and of 
 better quality than the ration of the navy of any other 
 country. A mess of ten American seamen usually 
 stop each two rations, for which they receive the com- 
 mutation in money. The Chinese, however, although 
 the most sordid of beings, not only devoured the en- 
 tire ration served out to them, but went about the 
 decks collecting what they could pick up from the 
 leavings of the messes, and invariably beset the ship's 
 cooks for the scrapings of the coppers. 
 
 The Chinese servants employed in the Commo- 
 dore's cabin ate, in miscellaneous food, including rice, 
 bread, beef, pork, and the leavings of the table, three 
 times as much as the other attendants. In fact, the 
 8* 
 
178 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 enormous quantities of rice they consumed, with what- 
 ever else they could seize upon, is almost incredible. 
 As for sugar and other sweets, there would have 
 been no end to their pilfering, if they had not been 
 carefully watched by the steward. This gross feed- 
 ing exhibited its effects upon the Chinese gfervants, as 
 it does upon dumb animals, for they soon became fat 
 and lazy. 
 
 Most of the Chinese servants employed in the Eu- 
 ropean and American families settled in China, en- 
 gage to £nd their own food. Their Wages vary from 
 four to six and seven dollars per month ; the cooks, 
 however, receive from seven to ten. All articles for 
 household consumption, in the foreign establishments, 
 are procured through the agency of a person called a 
 comprador^ who hires the servants, pays them their 
 wages, and becomes security for their honesty ; he 
 keeps a regular account of the domestic expenditure, 
 and settles with his employers at established periodi- 
 cal seasons. In the large mercantile establishments, 
 the profits of these compradors are very considerable. 
 However anaple a dinner may have been furnished, it 
 would be difficult to secure at some of the residences, 
 where little attention is paid to the economy of the 
 household by the proprietors themselves, any thing 
 for a late guest arriving half an hour after the meats 
 had been served. Scarcely are the dishes taken from 
 the dining-room, before they are on their way to the 
 neighboring eating-houses, there to be rehashed into 
 stews, and sold to the middle classes. 
 
 In the houses of the foreign merchants, where 
 there haj^pen to be no ladies, female servants are un- 
 
CHINA-MEN MILLINERS. 179 
 
 known ; and what would appear to be repugnant to 
 our own sense of delicacy, there are even some Eng- 
 lish and American families without female domestics, 
 although ladies form part of the household. 
 
 It was, however, observed, that in all the families 
 containing children, either maid servants or women 
 of Macao, called Amahs or Ayahs, were employed. 
 The wages of the latter at Macao are four dollars a 
 month, but if taken to Canton or Hong Kong they 
 demand additional compensation. Many of the wo- 
 men speak a little of the lingua called Chinese Eng- 
 lish, or in the cant phrase, pigeon^ which sounds very 
 ludicrous to those first hearing it, but one soon finds 
 himself drawn necessarily into this manner of making 
 himself understood. The Macao women possessing 
 this elegant accomplishment demand higher wages. 
 
 There is certainly some excuse for employing male 
 attendants about the bed-chamber and dressing-rooms, 
 when it is known that the Chinese lords of creation 
 are the only tailors, dress-makers, washers, ironers, 
 and doers up of fine linen. In Canton, however, 
 there are some women hired by the tailors to do plain 
 sewing, for which they receive nearly as little as our 
 needle-workers, and those poor creatures in Great 
 Britain, over whose misery and living death Hood 
 sang his dirge. Their pay is from five to seven cents 
 a day. The male tailors are somewhat better paid, 
 and will go to any house and work for twelve hours 
 at the rate of twenty-five cents a day, they finding 
 their own food, or, as they call it, their " chow-chow^'' 
 It is not uncommon to see a dirty small-footed female 
 sitting at some corner in the street, with a supply of 
 
180 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Chinese Barbor. 
 
A CHINESE STUMP UNCOVERED. 181 
 
 sewing materials and a few rags, ready to stitch, up a 
 rent, or put a patch upon the garments of any passer 
 by who may want her services. Toward night she 
 may be seen, with her stock in trade, hobbling home 
 on her disgusting stumps, of which she is seemingly 
 very proud. 
 
 All the Chinese women, in fact, pride themselves 
 very much on their goatlike hoofs, and have the great- 
 est possible contempt for a natural foot. Little girls 
 are said to importune their mothers with tears in 
 their eyes to compress their feet, as promising them a 
 higher position in society, although females of the 
 lower orders are frequently observed with the aristo- 
 cratic hoof, but these are such as have, possibly, seen 
 better days. It is difficult for strangers to get a sight 
 of these singular deformities, as the Chinese women 
 manifest the greatest reluctance to show them ; but 
 Dr. Parker prevailed upon a girl of thirteen, who was 
 a patient in the hospital, to unbandage in the presence 
 of her mother, in order to satisfy the curiosity of the 
 Commodore, who had quite enough in one glance of 
 that shapeless stump, which appeared more like a 
 specimen of bad surgery, such as Dr. Parker would 
 have been doubtless ashamed of, than, as the Chinese 
 consider it, an elegance of fashion. 
 
 These horrid hoofs are very carefully looked after 
 by the Chinese women, and are swathed in gay ban- 
 dages of all colors, and shod with a high-heeled shoe, 
 richly worked and adorned. 
 
 A fashionable ladies' dressmaker in China, is al- 
 ways greatly in demand among the foreign ladies, 
 and it is as necessary to bespeak his services in time 
 
182 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 
 
 
 1 jX ^ ^'^'■j 
 
 s ■*-*■: iRN 
 
 nil a •". ■'■■*»"i^^oT^^' 
 
 (,>- 
 
 
 Chinese Lady of Rank. 
 
THE CmiSrESE GUILDS. 183 
 
 at Canton and Macao, as it is those of a Miss Lawson 
 in ITew York. These man-milliners generally require 
 what they call a muster, or pattern, which they, with 
 the usual Chinese imitative skill, reproduce exactly, 
 whether of London, Paris, or New York fashion, and 
 adapt it to any form or size. It was by no means an 
 agreeable sight, on passing one of the dark and dirty 
 tailor shops at Macao, to behold the greasy and half 
 naked Chinaman, late at night, busily plying his dirty 
 fingers about a splendid female dress, destined to drape 
 the graceful form of some beautiful woman at the com- 
 ing ball or dinner party. These male dressmakers are 
 held in such estimation by those resident in China, 
 that some few European and American ladies have 
 been known, on leaving the country, to carry away a 
 Chinese man-milliner with them. 
 
 The ordinary compensation for all operatives in 
 Canton, who find their food, varies from twelve to 
 twenty cents a day. Farm hands, when fed, receive 
 six cents for twelve hours work, being at the rate of a 
 farthing an hour. The day laborers, chair-bearers, 
 and porters, if not hired by the job, are paid from 
 twenty to twenty-five cents. Boatmen's wages are 
 from one and a half to two and a quarter dollars per 
 month, when found, which latter condition generally 
 includes food, not only for themselves, but for their 
 wives and children, who live with them in the boat. 
 
 Porters, and those of other crafts in Canton form 
 themselves into guilds, and appoint leaders, or headmen, 
 who contract for labor of various sorts. This system of 
 organization is not confined to those who work, but ex- 
 tends to those who beg. The beggars, like the gypsies, 
 
184 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 have their kings, who assign to. their ragged subjects 
 their particular offices of vagabondage and their respec- 
 tive fields of operation ; and what is singular, the laws 
 of China secure to these rogues certain rights and privi- 
 leges. These laws give to them the right of approach- 
 ing and knocking at the door of any domicile, or to 
 enter the shops, and there to strike together a couple 
 of sticks similar to those used by the watchmen em- 
 ployed by families to guard their premises against 
 thieves; these sticks produce a disagreeable sound, 
 and, however long the beggars keep up this annoy- 
 ance, they cannot be legally ejected until they are 
 paid the usual gratuity, which is the smallest coin in 
 use, termed a cash, and which in value is about the 
 twelfth of a cent ; when supplied with this the beggar 
 takes his departure, and repeats the stick striking 
 nuisance next door, and so on until he has completed 
 his daily circuit. 
 
 It is said that one hundred of these mendicants are 
 assigned by their king to Old China street alone, 
 which is altogether occupied by wealthy shop-keep- 
 ers. Some of these commute with the beggars by 
 paying them a round sum for exemption from the an- 
 noyance of their noisy visitors. The organized beg- 
 gars have their own benevolent institutions, where 
 provision is made for the sick and needy, and the old 
 and infirm. The number of these well-disciplined 
 gentry can hardly be estimated by a stranger, but it 
 is undoubtedly very large, if we may judge from the 
 crowds which infest those parts of the city of Canton 
 accessible to foreigners. 
 
 Each city has its own laws with respect to mendi- 
 
HONESTY FOB BALE. 185 
 
 cants, and its own charitable institutions. In Canton 
 there are four principal benevolent establishments : 
 one for widows, another for foundlings, a third for 
 furnishing coffins for the dead relations of indigent 
 families, and the fourth for idlers. Whether thieving 
 is one of the recognized functions of these beggars or 
 not, is not known ; but it is quite clear that they can 
 and do turn their hand with great skill to occasional 
 small pilfering, in which they show themselves as 
 great adepts as the most accomplished pickpockets in 
 any part of the world. 
 
 In regard to the lower, or laboring classes of China, 
 the Commodore was agreeably disappointed, as he 
 found them, practically, not so bad after all. It is 
 true, honesty is only a conventional virtue with the 
 Chinese ; but it can be obtained for money, like any 
 thing else among that nation of shopkeepers : and if 
 a Chinese laborer stipulates to be honest for a consid- 
 eration, he may, in ordinary cases, be depended upon, 
 especially if he furnishes security for the fulfilment 
 of his contract. If, however, honesty has not been 
 made expressly a part of the bargain, a Chinaman 
 thinks he retains the right of lying, cheating, and 
 thieving, to the full extent of his opportunity and the 
 utmost bent of his inclinations. In engaging servants, 
 it is customary to require of them to produce securi- 
 ties who will hold themselves accountable for their 
 honesty and good conduct. "Without an endorsement, 
 no foreign merchant would think of taking a Chinese 
 domestic into his household, any more than he would 
 receive across the desk of his counting-room an equivo- 
 cal note without the security of a good house or name. 
 
186 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 It is difficult to form any just estimate of the 
 higher classes in China without an opportunity, which 
 few can possess, of mixing in intimate social inter- 
 course with them. The foreign merchants, whose re- 
 lations with the country are entirely commercial, 
 have but little occasion of knowing any others than 
 those engaged in trade. The missionaries have an 
 opportunity, undoubtedly, of extending their obser- 
 vations over a wider range, but their experience is 
 generally confined to the outskirts of society. 
 
 There was no very complete account of the social 
 habits and characteristics of the Chinese people until 
 the publication of Pere Hue's book of travels, which 
 contains certainly the best account extant of the inner 
 life of China. What is seen by a casual visitor of 
 Chinese society is not calculated to impress him very 
 favorably. The position of women is such as to destroy 
 all the best features of domestic life. Polygamy 
 being allowed by the laws of China, as well as con- 
 cubinage, women are naturally considered as mere 
 household slaves, to gratify the passions and do menial 
 service, at the wills of their lords and masters. The 
 men do not treat females as equals, and seemingly 
 avoid their society as much as possible ; for they are 
 passing their leisure hours at the tea and opium houses, 
 while the women are kept at home in a state of do- 
 mestic slavery. As among the negroes on the west- 
 ern coast of Africa, the wealth of a king or chief is 
 estimated by the stock of wives he has been enabled 
 to purchase, with all the cocoa-nut oil, gold dust, and 
 elephants' tusks he can muster, so in China the num- 
 ber of damsels who can be bought to call a man hns- 
 
MT8TEEIOTT8 MOVEMENTS. 187 
 
 band, make his riches and swell his importance. The 
 very wealthy and aristocratic are the exclusive few, 
 however, in China, who can afford the luxury of a 
 multiplicity of wives. 
 
 The Commodore found Macao an exceedingly 
 agreeable place of residence, as the picturesque beau- 
 ties of the country were full of interest, and the town, 
 with its pleasant foreign society, presented many at- 
 tractions. During his stay there he made the ac- 
 quaintance of many of the residents, ahaong whom 
 were the families of several of the Canton merchants 
 having summer establishments at Macao, to which 
 they are accustomed to retire during the hot months, 
 and where they exercise the kindest and most liberal 
 hospitality. He also exchanged the usual courtesies 
 with the naval and diplomatic residents of foreign 
 countries. The Commodore, however, did not care to 
 linger any longer at Macao, as he believed that his 
 duty called him elsewhere. 
 
 About the close of ISTovember, the French Com- 
 modore, in the frigate Constantino, then lying at 
 Macao, suddenly put to sea under sealed orders. It 
 was at the time well known, that in a day or two he was 
 to have departed for Shanghai with the French minister, 
 but on the arrival of the mail from Europe he hurried 
 away without any one knowing in what direction. 
 The Eussian admiral, Pontiatine, in the frigate Pallas, 
 and with three other vessels, was at this period at 
 Shanghai, having just arrived from ^Nagasaki. The 
 Commodore, suspecting that the Russians contem- 
 plated the design of returning to Japan and of ulti- 
 mately going to Yedo, which might seriously interfere 
 
188 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 witli his operations, and suspecting also that the same 
 place was the destination of the French Commodore, 
 became very anxious for the arrival of the storeship 
 Lexington with some articles for presents on board. 
 He determined, therefore, rather than allow either the 
 Russians or the French to gain an advantage over him, 
 to encounter all the inconveniences and exposure of a 
 cruise to Japan in mid- winter. Nov was he to be de- 
 terred from his purpose by the terrible accounts given 
 by writers of the storms, fogs, and other dangers to 
 be met with on the inhospitable Japanese coast during 
 the inclement season. 
 
 It had been originally the intention of the Com- 
 mordore to wait until the spring had set in before 
 going to the north, but the suspicion of the movements 
 of the French and Russians induced him to alter his 
 plans. The expected Lexington having fortunately 
 arrived, after an unusually long passage, she was 
 ordered to Hong Kong, there to land such part of her 
 cargo as would not be required for the Japan service, 
 and to take on board, in place of what she might dis- 
 charge there; four hundred tons of coal. This being 
 accomplished, the Commodore sailed from Hong Kong 
 in the Susquehanna, on the 14th of January, 1854, for 
 Lew Chew, in company with the Powhatan, Missis- 
 sippi, and the storeships Lexington and Southampton, 
 the two latter being respectively in tow of the steam- 
 ers ; the Macedonian and Supply, having been a few 
 days before despatched for Lew Chew, there to join 
 the Yandalia. The Plymouth was at Shanghai, and 
 the Saratoga had orders to meet the squadron at Lew 
 Chew. 
 
DEPAETTXEE FROM CHINA. 189 
 
 To provide for the security of the merchants at 
 Canton, during the absence of his squadron, the Com- 
 modore had chartered a small steamboat, to which 
 ■was assigned a suitable armament and crew, under the 
 command of a lieutenant, who was ordered carefully 
 to guard American interests. 
 
 The squadron having set sail for Hong Kong, the 
 course was directed through the Lymoon passage. It 
 was thought desirable to get well to the northward 
 before striking over to the south end of Formosa. The 
 north-easterly current, which is constantly setting with 
 great rapidity round the south end of this island, and 
 with decreased velocity along its eastern coast, was es- 
 pecially noticed during the voyage, and careful obser- 
 vations were made upon its force, direction, and 
 other characteristics, which resemble remarkably 
 those of the gulf stream on our own coast. The mon- 
 soon fortunately not having been very strong, a favor- 
 able passage was made, with the two storeships in 
 tow, as far as the northeastern point of Formosa, when 
 they were cast off, with orders to follow the steamers 
 to ITapha, where the latter arrived on the 20th of 
 January, and the former on the twenty-fourth of the 
 same month. Here were found the Macedonian, 
 Yandalia, and Supply. The Saratoga, however, had 
 not yet made her appearance. 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Six months had passed since the Commodore's last 
 departure from Lew Chew, and now, on his fourth 
 visit to that interesting island, he observed a very 
 marked change in the conduct of the Lew Chewans 
 towards the Americans. The authorities readily fur- 
 nished whatever was required, and received a due 
 price for it, seemingly as a matter of course, while the 
 people had evidently thrown off somewhat of their 
 reserve, and were more disposed to a friendly inter- 
 course. The men in the street grew quite familiar with 
 the sight of the strangers, and did not avoid them, while 
 the women, even, no longer fled from the market 
 places, but remained in charge of their stalls, ap- 
 parently unmindful of the foreign intruders. 
 
 The Commodore, soon after his arrival, gave notice 
 to the regent that it was his intention before leaving 
 Napha to visit the palace of Shui for the second time, 
 thinking it not amiss, as the Lew Chewans seemed to 
 be gradually yielding to American intercourse, to 
 weaken by repetition the very strong opposition at first 
 evinced to opening the gates of the royal residence to 
 
THE COMMODORE VISITS THE PALACE. 191 
 
 foreign "visitors. The regent, however, still exhibited a 
 very decided aversion to the admission of the Com- 
 modore within the sacred walls of the palace, and in a 
 courteous communication, expressed a willingness to 
 receive him, but a very strong preference for ITapha 
 as the place of reception. The Commodore, however, 
 holding to his original intention, declared, in answer, 
 that it would be far more respectful towards the em- 
 pire of Lew Chew to go to the royal palace, and added 
 that he would expect that horses, kagos, and kago- 
 bearers shoxild be in readiness to bear him and his 
 attending party on the day proposed for the visit. 
 
 The regent was prepared to meet this demand with 
 all the usual variety of objections, in accordance with 
 the crooked Lew Chewan policy, but they were an- 
 swered by the Commodore's repetition of his original 
 resolve. 
 
 The regent accordingly put the best face possible 
 on the matter, and made all the necessary prepara- 
 tions ; and when the Commodore, on the 3d of Febru- 
 ary, carried his intentions into execution, he was 
 received with all proper respect and the usual courte- 
 sies. He paid his first visit, as on the previous occa- 
 sion, to the palace, accompanied by a military guard 
 and a suite of ofiicers, and was received with the same 
 formal ceremonies. Immediately after, as on a foi-mer 
 visit, the party proceeded to the regent's house, where 
 they found a handsome feast in preparation, to which 
 the Americans, having now somewhat accustomed 
 their palates to the Lew Chewan cookery, succeeded 
 in doing better justice than on the previous occasion. 
 In the course of the entertainment the Commodore 
 
J.92 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 informed the regent that he was desirous of obtaining 
 for the United States naint, in exchange for American 
 coinage of equal value, all coins in use on the island ; 
 as it was well known that the imperial money of Japan 
 was in circulation in Lew Chew, although it had 
 hitherto been carefully concealed. Both the regent and 
 the pe-ching or treasurer declared that there were no 
 coins in the island, except a few in the possession of the 
 Japanese residents, who would not part with them. 
 This declaration the Commodore was inclined to be- 
 lieve to be, like most of their very positive assertions, 
 false, and he therefore urged upon them a compliance 
 with his request, and left with them a certain number 
 of American coins, of about fifty dollars in value. 
 The Commodore, at the same time, stated that he should 
 expect to receive a number of Japanese or Lew Chew 
 coins in exchange before his departure. The subject 
 was then dropped ; but just on the eve of the squadron's 
 sailing, a formal communication was received from the 
 authorities in the name of Shang-Hyimg-Hiun, super- 
 intendent of affairs in the Middle Hill prefecture, in 
 the kingdom of Lew Chew, high minister, and Ma- 
 Liang-tsai, treasurer, in which document it was stated, 
 that on several occasions demands had been made for 
 an exchange of Japan coins for American, but that it 
 was impossible to comply. 
 
 The reasons given were, that all the commercial 
 transactions between Lew Chew and Japan were car- 
 ried on by the interchange of commodities, and not 
 by the use of coin. That all the gold and silver used 
 by the Lew Chewans themselves for their hair pins 
 were obtained from China. That although every 
 
LEW CUKVV EXTLOEED AGAIN. 193 
 
 eflFort had been made to obtain Japanese coins by 
 careful investigations among those in Lew Chow en- 
 gaged in trade with Japan, it had been in vain, as the 
 Japanese strictly forbade by law the exportation of 
 their money, and that none could accordingly be 
 brought into the island. With this document the 
 authorities returned the American coin that had been 
 deposited with them, but as the Commodore refused 
 to receive it, it was left in their possession. 
 
 Exploring parties had been early despatched to 
 make further investigations of the condition and re- 
 sources of tlie island. These investigations M'ere di- 
 rected chicilv to the examination of the ccolosical 
 formation, tlie nature of the soil, and the mineralogi- 
 cal and agricultural resources of Lew Chew. The 
 otiicors selected for tlie various duties were tlie chap- 
 lain and several of the surgeons, whose studies and 
 tastes were supjiosod to fit them especially for making 
 those observations, which had more or less a scientific 
 bearing. 
 
 The chaplain concentrated his investigations upon 
 the resources of the island in regard to coal, and the 
 result seemed to prove the interesting and important 
 fact of the existence, at Shah bay, of that combustible, 
 a supply of which might be readily obtained by 
 proper mining. The natives do not seem conscious 
 of the presence of this valuable mineral in their 
 island ; they remain, probably, totally unacquainted 
 with its uses. 
 
 In the geological features of the island of Lew 
 Chew, the first peculiarity that strikes the eye are the 
 great masses of coral rock abounding every where, 
 9 
 
194 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 even on the tops of the highest mountainr, four or 
 live hundred feet above tlic level of the sea. The 
 steep promontories along the coast are generally com- 
 posed of gneiss, while in the interior some of the 
 loftier eminences show strata of slate. Tlie base of 
 the island is of the two combined, iijion which the 
 coral zooiihite has bnilt its structm-es, wliich by some 
 internal convulsion have been upheaved to their 
 present height. Tlie soil on the surface is composed 
 of the detritus of coral and decomposed vegetable and 
 animal remains. As the streams arc free of lime, it 
 is conjectured that tlioir springs take tlieir origin from, 
 and llioir currents i\o\v through, those strata which 
 are below the coral ftirnuition. 
 
 Tlie soil varies in accordance with the face of the 
 country, being rich and fertile in the valleys and 
 plains, and comparatively ])oor upon the mountain 
 tops and their acclivities. The climate is generally 
 favorable to culture, though droughts arc said occa- 
 sionally to occur, and the island must suffer from the 
 typhoons, being in the direct range of their ordinary 
 occurrence. The climate is undoubtedly highly fa- 
 vorable also to health, as may be inferred, not only 
 from the condition of the inhabitants but the topo- 
 graphical characteristics of the island. Tlie entire 
 absence of marshes, together Avith the pure air con- 
 stantly wafted over the land in the breezes from the 
 surrounding sea, must exempt it from all miasmatic 
 disease. Although situated near the tropics, the heat 
 is so tempered by the sea winds and the elevation of 
 the land, that it is never excessive. 
 
 All the land in Lew Chew is held by government 
 
CnLTrVATlON OF SOIL. 195 
 
 and rented to large tenants, -who, in their turn, snb-let 
 it to smaller ones, who are the direct cultivators of 
 the soil. The system of cultivation is rude and prim- 
 itive, being performed by the hands of men and 
 women, with the occasional aid, however, of the 
 horse and bull. A rude kind of plougli, chiefly made 
 of wood, but tipped with an iron point, and of the old 
 Roman model, is used. They have harrows, hoes, 
 sickles, and axes, biit all of simple and awkward 
 constriiction. They have but small supplies of iron 
 and evidently employ it with a very strict regard to 
 economy. 
 
 As rice is one of the chief products of Lew Chew 
 and requires abundant supplies of water, a very ex- 
 tensive system of irrigation is carried on. The ground 
 is arranged in a series of terraces which succeed each 
 other, from the acclivities of the hills down to the 
 bottoms of the valleys, and the water of the neighbor- 
 ing streams is directed into them from the sides by 
 means of ditches and conduits. There are no dams, 
 properly so called, but the irrigation is so graduated 
 by means of the terrace-like arrangement of the land 
 that the supply of water is gradual, and never in such 
 excess as to produce any of the ill effects of flooding 
 or surface washing. The land, generally, is divided 
 into small allotments appropriated to single individ- 
 uals, so that the surface of the country has rather the 
 appearance of being divided into highly cultivated 
 gardens than overspread with fertile fields. In pre- 
 paring the land for the cultivation of rice it is first 
 overflowed, and then the laborer, who goes to work 
 knee deep into the mud and water, hoes it into fur- 
 
196 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 rows. The plough is used subsequently for further 
 loosening the soil, and is followed by the application 
 of the harrow. All this process is carried on while 
 the land is overflowed, and although this is con- 
 sidered by our agriculturists as the very worst kind 
 of farming, it seems very well adapted to Lew Chewan 
 husbandry with its inferior implements. The rice is 
 not sown broad-cast over the fields, but first grown in 
 plots and then transplanted by hand. The water was 
 observed always covering the fields, but it was not 
 ascertained whether it was ever drawn ofi", probably, 
 however, not until the harvest, which takes place be- 
 fore the rice is " dead ripe." When this occurs the 
 plants are cut, gathered into bundles, and then spread 
 out to dry in the air and sun. The product gives 
 something like twenty bushels to the acre, and the 
 head of the grain is remarkably large and full, in con- 
 sequence, probably, of the mode of growth by trans- 
 plantation. The rice-fields probably yield two crops 
 annually, with an alternation of a supply of taro or 
 sweet potatoes, both of which are extensively culti- 
 vated. Sugar cane, wheat, cotton, barley in small 
 quantities, tobacco, several varieties of millet, sago, 
 beans, peanuts, turnips, peas, radishes of very large 
 size, some being three feet in length and twelve inches 
 in circumference, egg-plants, onions, and cucumbers, 
 are all found growing on the island. Of fruits there 
 are the peach, the watermelon, the banana, the wild 
 raspberry, and the fig. Grass is not cultivated, but 
 some wild and coarse varieties are occasionally seen. 
 It might be supposed by the casual observer, from 
 the beautiful aspect presented by the rich growth of 
 
THE FLOEA. 
 
 197 
 
 the island, that the variety of the vegetable kingdom 
 is very great. Close investigation, however, proves 
 the reverse, for there is a remarkable sameness per- 
 vading nearly the whole country from north to south. 
 The flora in some respects presents a tropical appear- 
 ance, but not so much so as might be expected 
 from the position of the island as compared with 
 some others having a higher latitiide. The trees 
 that are most abundant, are the pine and the ban- 
 yan, (ficus indica,) but as these are found growing 
 in regular lines along the highways, forming beauti- 
 
 ful avenues, leading to the tombs and villages, it is 
 reasonable to suppose that they have been planted. 
 The banyan is particularly abundant and is much 
 used for hedges, being planted on the tops of the coral 
 
198 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 walls whicli Burround tlie houses, and pruned and cut 
 into symmetrical forms. The vegetable ivory tree, 
 the ebony, the mulberry, several varieties of the 
 palm, the orange, the lemon, and the banana, are all 
 found, but many of them are evidently not indigenous. 
 Of flowers there is the camellia, which grows wild and 
 bears a beautiful pink blossom, the dahlia, the morn- 
 ing glory, the marsh mallow, the hibiscus, and some 
 few others. 
 
 The bamboo, which grows abundantly, is of the 
 greatest use to the inhabitants, supplying them with 
 food, with material for clothing and for building, 
 and, when in its natural stateliness of growth, with 
 a beautiful shade for their houses and villages. The 
 ferns are exceedingly fine, and some of them are 
 of the large and spreading variety. The agriculture 
 of the island, though of the simplest character, seems 
 to answer its purpose admirably. Of the five hun- 
 dred thousand acres, embraced by the whole area of 
 Great Lew Chew, one eighth at least is under culti- 
 vation, producing, it is supposed, about two hundred 
 thousand bushels of rice, fifty thousand bushels of 
 wheat, with the additional product of thirty-five 
 thousand acres of sweet potatoes, two thousand acres 
 of sugar cane, and a considerable number of acres 
 of beans, taro, and other kinds of grain and vegetables. 
 
 The agricultural machinery is simple in principle 
 but generally efiective. The sugar mills consist 
 of three cylinders of hard wood, supported in an up- 
 right position by means of a wooden frame. The 
 cylinders are about a foot iu diameter, and are ar- 
 ranged in a row, with a mortise between them to regu- 
 
SUGAR MILLS. 199 
 
 late their approach and pressure upon, the cane. 
 The central one has a wooden axle or shaft extending 
 through the frame which supports it, to which is at- 
 tached a curved lever of fifteen feet in length, by 
 which the mill is readily worked. This central cyl- 
 inder has a row of cogs of hard wood near the upper 
 end, which play into mortises cut into each of the two 
 other cylinders. A single bull or horse is generally 
 used to work the mill, and the animal moves in a cir- 
 cuit of about thirty feet in diameter. The cane is 
 placed first between the central and right cylinders, 
 and before its escape it is caught by the hand of the 
 workman and, being twisted like a rope, is thrust in 
 between the central and left cylinders, by which it is 
 completely crushed and its juice expressed, which 
 flows through gutters into a tub, placed in a hole 
 near by. The juice is then conveyed to neighboring 
 houses, temporarily constructed for the purpose, and 
 there boiled in iron pans containing about eight or 
 ten gallons. "What use is made of all the sugar it is 
 difficult to understand, as the common beverage, 
 which is tea, is never sweetened. It probably is kept 
 as a delicacy for the palates of the higher classes, who 
 delight in sweetmeats and other confections of sugar, 
 or sent as an export or tribute to Japan. In spite 
 of an abundant product, sugar is evidently a scarce 
 article among the common people, for one of the in- 
 terpreters begged some from the Americans, as if he 
 esteemed it a rare luxury. The refuse cane, after 
 being pressed, is carefully dried and used as fuel. 
 
 The Lew Chewans have also mills for the grind- 
 ing of grain. These are made of excellent mill- 
 
200 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 stones, and are worked by hand. The flonr, how- 
 ever, remains unbolted, but makes a good and 
 sweet bread. The granaries are marked objects in 
 every village throughout the island. Tliey are 
 generally constructed of either woven cane or wood, 
 and in a square form, increasing in width from their 
 base, which is supported upon posts placed upon 
 stones, to the top which is covered with a rice straw 
 thatch. They have the advantage of being well ven- 
 tilated and protected from vermin, of which, especial- 
 ly of rats, there is a great abundance. These grana- 
 ries often contain as much as five hundred bushels, 
 and as they are grouped together in numbers, amount- 
 ing sometimes to nearly a score, they are supposed to 
 be the property of the government. 
 
 The population of Great Lew Chew must amount 
 to between one hundred and fifty and two hundred 
 thousand, since there are two large cities, those of 
 Kapha and Sheudi, and some thirty-six towns beside, 
 with an average of about six thousand people each. 
 The island seems to be peopled by two distinct races, 
 the Japanese and the Lew Chewan, properly so called. 
 They both have originally sprung, however, from the 
 same stock. It has been supposed by some that the 
 Lew Chewan people are chiefly allied to the Tagallas, 
 a race which is spread over the Philippine, Marian, 
 and other Pacific islands, and which originally sprang 
 from the Malays. There is, however, no affinity be- 
 tween the Lew Chew, Malay, and Tagalla languages, 
 nor are the relations of their physical peculiarities 
 such as to favor the opinion of a common origin. 
 From the discovery, during the exploration of the 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 201 
 
 island, of some remains of ancient Hindoo worsliip, it 
 was surmised that the Lew Chewans might possibly 
 have been originally a colony from southern Asia. 
 Whether these remains are the relics of a people 
 living in Lew Chew previous to the present races, or 
 only the vestiges of a religion once held by one of 
 the present existing races, but now supplanted by the 
 wide-spreading Buddhism, it is not easy to decide. 
 It is probable that the Hindoo idolatry Avas introduced 
 directly by means of priests coming from India as 
 missionaries, or through the medium of the commer- 
 cial intercourse which has, in all ages, existed between 
 eastern nations. 
 
 The Japanese and the Lew Chewans differ slight- 
 ly from each other, the latter being more effeminate 
 and somewhat less intelligent, but this may be owing 
 to their simple, retired life, upon a remote island, 
 where their wants are few, and nature is generous. 
 They have, however, such strong resemblances that it 
 is almost impossible to resist the conviction of their 
 sameness of origin. They have both the same height, 
 and very similar features. In both, the head is oval, 
 approaching in form that of the European, the frontal 
 bones rounded, and the forehead high, the face oval, 
 and the general expression mild and amiable, the eyes 
 large and animated, though more so in the Japanese 
 than in the Lew Chewans ; the irides in both are dark 
 brown or black, the lashes long, and the eyebrows 
 rather heavy and arched. The long angular form of 
 the internal canthus of the eye is seldom seen, either 
 in the Japanese or Lew Chewan. The nose in each 
 is generally handsome, and well proportioned to 
 9* 
 
202 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 the otlier features ; the root of it is not depressed, 
 as in the Chinese or Malay, and the nostrils are 
 not so widely dilated. The cheek bones are not 
 very prominent, and consequently there is a want 
 of that squareness of face which is so remarkable 
 in some eastern races. The mouth is rather large, 
 the teeth broad, very white and strong, and the chin 
 neatly cut. One mark the Japanese and Lew 
 Chewans have in common to distinguish them from 
 the Malay or Chinaman ; it is the possession of a 
 strong black beard, of wliich both the latter are desti- 
 tute to any extent. In other parts of the body the same 
 conformity of organization exists in the Lew Chewan 
 and Japanese. 
 
 But it is not in mere physical conformity that we 
 trace the same origin of both races. The identity of 
 the two races is proved by the more satisfactory testi- 
 mony of aflfinity of language, as may be seen by the 
 following vocabularies : 
 
 
 Lew Chew. 
 
 Japanese. 
 
 Water, 
 
 Mizee, 
 
 Mi-dsoo. 
 
 Tea, 
 
 Chaa, 
 
 Ts-ga. 
 
 Sun, 
 
 Fee, 
 
 Fi. 
 
 Fire, 
 
 Fiee, 
 
 Fi. 
 
 Moon, 
 
 Sichee, 
 
 Ts'kL 
 
 Star, 
 
 Huzee, 
 
 Ho-sL 
 
 Wind, 
 
 Hadzee, 
 
 Ka-zee. 
 
 Chicken, 
 
 Nuatuee, 
 
 Ne-wa-ts-ri. 
 
 Egg, 
 
 Tomague, 
 
 To-ma-go. 
 
 Sea, 
 
 Oomee, 
 
 Oo-mi. 
 
 Eye, 
 
 Mee, 
 
 Me. 
 
 Hand, 
 
 Tee, 
 
 Te. 
 
 Nose, 
 
 Hanaa, 
 
 Ha-na. 
 
 Month, 
 
 Koochee, 
 
 Koo-tse. 
 
Tree, 
 
 Eee, 
 
 
 Eice, 
 
 Eumee, 
 
 Ko-me. 
 
 Sweet potato, 
 
 Karaemu, 
 
 Ka-ran-da-iino. 
 
 Pan, 
 
 Nudee, 
 
 Ko-na-be. 
 
 Wine, 
 
 Sakee, 
 
 Sa-kee. 
 
 Tobacco, 
 
 Tobako, 
 
 Ta-ba-ko. 
 
 Basket chair, 
 
 Kagoo, 
 
 Ka-go. 
 
 Silver, 
 
 Nanzee, 
 
 Si-ro-goone. 
 
 Iron, 
 
 Titzee, 
 
 Tets'. 
 
 Cap, 
 
 Hachee-machee, 
 
 Ba-oosi. 
 
 Looking-glass, 
 
 Ka-ga-me, 
 
 Ka-ga-mi. 
 
 Book, 
 
 Soomuzee, 
 
 S'yo-mots. 
 
 Chair, 
 
 Tee, 
 
 K'yoH'rokf. 
 
 Stone, 
 
 Ezaa, 
 
 I-si. 
 
 Swine, 
 
 Boobaa, 
 
 Boo-ta. 
 
 203 
 
 It will be observed tbat two-thirds of tbe words, at 
 least, in tbe comparative vocabularies, are, with the 
 slight differences of spelling, almost exactly the same. 
 The orthography of a language employed by a for- 
 eigner depends more or less upon his capricious esti- 
 mate of the sounds that the strange words seem to his 
 ear to possess, and accordingly different observers will 
 necessarily employ a variety of spelling. In these 
 words in the comparative lists, which seem to differ, 
 there will, on investigation, be found considerable 
 affinity, and they will almost invariably show a com- 
 mon derivation from the same root. 
 
 Allusion has already been made to the full beard, 
 as a distinctive mark between the Lew Chewans or 
 Japanese, and the Chinese and Malayan. The men in 
 Lew Chew in youth have almost invariably a rich jet 
 black beard, which in age becomes as white as snow. 
 The higher classes allow their beards to grow of great 
 length, and cultivate them with great care and pride, 
 
204 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJiT. 
 
 ■while the inferior people are obliged by law to cut 
 theirs. The moustache is also generally worn, but 
 seldom grows very luxuriantly. The hair is ordinarily 
 of a deep black, and is allowed to grow in long locks 
 behind and at the sides of the head, while the middle 
 of the pate is shaved clean. The hair being well oiled 
 and gathered from the sides and back, is formed into 
 a large knot and affixed to the bald place on the head 
 with pins either of gold, silver, or brass, according to 
 the rank of the wearer. 
 
 The Lew Chewan male has generally a well pro- 
 portioned figure, with broad and largely developed 
 chest, narrow hips, and a slim waist and neck. A 
 deformed person is a very rare sight in Lew Chew. 
 The costume is neat, graceful, and suitable to the 
 climate, and its flowing outline is particularly becom- 
 ing to the aged, who, with their long white beards, 
 have quite a patriarchal look. The dress is a loose 
 robe, with very wide sleeves, which falls nearly to the 
 ankles, and is gathered in at the waist with a girdle of 
 silk or grass-cloth, to which is attached the invariable 
 pouch containing the pipe and a supply of tobacco. 
 The cap worn by the higher classes, and called in the 
 Lew Chewan tongue a haGhee-moGhee, is of cylindrical 
 form, and seems to be made of two bands crossing 
 each other in a figure of eight form. The laboring 
 people go invariably barefooted, but the better classes 
 -wear a white stocking, to which when they go out, a 
 straw sandal is added. A band from the front passes 
 between the great and next toe, as is seen in ancient 
 statues. The peasants in the country go bareheaded 
 as well as barefooted, and are scantily clothed in a 
 
THE WOMEN. 205 
 
 coarse cotton sMrt, or with a mere cloth about the 
 loins. 
 
 The women are kept so secluded, particularly 
 those of a higher rank, that it is difficult for a stranger 
 to obtain a sufficient opportunity to investigate their 
 peculiarities very thoroughly. They are generally 
 short of stature, and by no means handsome, having 
 a great squareness of face, and more depressed noses 
 than the men. Some of the ladies of distinction, the 
 exclusive few, are described as being tolerably good 
 looking, and of fair complexion. The women wear a 
 robe very much like that worn by the men, though 
 without the girdle, while the hair, none of which is 
 shaved, is dressed in the same style, except that the top 
 knot is rather more in front, and somewhat to the side 
 of the head. Woman is by no means so high in the 
 social scale in Lew Chew as she should be, being re- 
 garded as a mere slave or chattel, and always slighted 
 by the men, who seem hardly to notice her, either in 
 the house or in the street, although the females in their 
 deportment towards strangers show apparently much 
 modesty and amiability. 
 
 Marriages are arranged in Lew Chew, as with us, 
 by match-making relatives, and the natural conse- 
 quence is a good deal of conjugal discord, which, 
 however, is more readily settled than by our tedious 
 laws, by a very summary process of divorce. All 
 the dissatisfied husband has to do is to send his wife 
 back to her parents and try his luck again. If the 
 parents are too poor to receive their rejected child, 
 her former husband builds a hut near his own house 
 where he imprisons her for life with hard labor and 
 
206 EXPEDrrioN to japait. 
 
 harder treatment, where she mourns her degradation 
 and captivity within the sounds of the endearments 
 her former partner is bestowing upon her successor in 
 his affections. 
 
 The Lew Chewans are a remarkably courteous 
 people in their ordinary intercourse with each other, 
 and in their occasional relations with foreigners. 
 Their usual form of obeisance is preposterously polite, 
 they clasp their hands with a spasmodic earnestness 
 of courtesy, and pressing them to their forehead, bow 
 so low that it is a marvel how they preserve their 
 centre of gravity. The ordinary bending of the body, 
 which seems to be to the utmost extent of suppleness 
 of back, is still further extended on coming into the 
 presence of those of very high rank, when the polite 
 but inferior Lew Chewan bows so low as literally to 
 touch, if not fall upon the ground. 
 
 The people of Lew Chew are naturally among the 
 most intelligent of the eastern nations, but they are 
 kept in general ignorance by their rulers. The higher 
 classes are well instructed in the learning of China, 
 whither the literati and professional men, and espe- 
 cially the physicians, are sent to finish their education. 
 The literature, whatever they may possess, is derived 
 from the Chinese and Japanese. 
 
 The occupation of the Lew Chewans is chiefly 
 agricultural, although they have some little commerce 
 with China and Japan, to which they send annually 
 a few junks, which carry such articles of clothing and 
 provision as can be spared, and bring back in ex- 
 change the productions of those countries. They have 
 apparently no cm-rency of their own, but in spite of 
 
AKT8. 207 
 
 their protestations to the contrary, they are evidently 
 familiar with money, particularly with the Chinese 
 copper coin termed cash. Their manufactures are 
 few, and consist of sugar of a coarse kind, salt of an 
 inferior quality, large vats for making which are found 
 extending along the bay of ITapha, Sakee, a spirit 
 distilled from rice, cotton and grass-cloth of rude tex- 
 ture, an inferior style of lacquered ware, pottery, hair 
 pins, junks, agricultural tools, and a limited variety 
 of other articles needed for their own simple life. 
 
 In the higher arts, the Lew Chewans have not 
 made much progress, although there are specimens 
 among them of rude paintings and sculpture, particu- 
 larly of the latter, in the coarse figures of their idols, 
 with which they adorn their tombs and temples. In 
 their architecture there is more evidence of advance 
 than in the other branches of the fine arts. The ruins 
 of the castles in the northern and southern parts of 
 the island, and the structure of the palace of Sheudi, 
 with the various bi'idges, viaducts and roads through- 
 out the country, show considerable architectural skiU. 
 In the arches and massive masonry of the fortresses, 
 and walls of stone, there are marks, not only of artis- 
 tic design, but of skilful workmanship. Their town 
 houses are all constructed of wood, roofed with earthen 
 tiles, surrounded with verandas of bamboo, and en- 
 closed within high walls of coral. The cottages in 
 the country are generally thatched with rice straw, and 
 surrounded by either stone walls or bamboo picket 
 fences, within which there is not only the house, but 
 the usual farmer's concomitants of stable, pig pen, and 
 poultry hutch. The furniture is of the simplest kind, 
 
208 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 consisting of thick mats spread npon tlie plank floor, 
 upon whicli the natives sit crosslegged, a few stools, a 
 table, and a teapot with a supply of cups. The food 
 of the people is simple, being mostly rice and sweet 
 potatoes. Animal food is but rarely used by the low- 
 est classes, and consists, when enjoyed, chiefly of pork. 
 The higher ranks have a more elaborate cookery, and 
 succeed in spreading occasional banquets, which were 
 found quite appetizing. A great variety of soups, 
 with various sweetened confections, and vegetable 
 concoctions of different kinds, are the chief elements 
 of the recherche Lew Chewan cuisine of the best 
 tables. 
 
 The Lew Chewans are a hard-working people, and 
 enjoy but little relaxation from labor. They have 
 certain festivals, but of not frequent occurrence, for the 
 celebration of religious and national holidays. Of 
 their amusements little could be observed, although it 
 was inferred from the existence of large level spaces, 
 handsomely bordered with spreading pines, in the 
 neighborhood of the towns and villages, apparently 
 adapted for racing, wrestling, and other athletic sports, 
 that the Lew Chewans occasionally indulge in such 
 exercises and amusements. In the markets there are 
 frequently found for sale certain large balls, adorned 
 with bright colored threads, supposed to be used in a 
 game like that of our football. 
 
 Captain Basil Hall, in his interesting but not very 
 authentic account of the Lew Chewans, states that 
 they were unacquainted with war ; and in relating, 
 during an interview with Napoleon, at St. Helena, his 
 experiences of travel, startled that great soldier with 
 
OOVEENMENT. 209 
 
 this unique characteristic of the Lew Chewans, -wliich 
 drew from him, as he shrugged his shoulders, the re- 
 mark, " ]S"o wars ; it is impossible ! " Hall's state- 
 ment would seem to be confirmed by the apparent 
 absence of all arms or ammunition, or even the rudest 
 weapons of attack or defence, such as bows and 
 arrows. The ruins of fortresses and the walled de- 
 fences of Sheudi, however, seem to indicate that the 
 island has not always enjoyed this blessed condition 
 of peace, and the Japanese histories record the fact 
 of ancient intestine and foreign wars. 
 
 The government of Lew Chew seems to be an ab- 
 solute despotism, with a system of administration like 
 that of Japan, to which the' island is tributary. The 
 present king is said to be a youth of some eleven 
 years of age, under the immediate personal guardian- 
 ship of a queen mother, while his government, during 
 the minority, is delegated to a regency, composed of 
 a regent and three chief officers, entitled pe-ohings, 
 or treasurers. As the policy of the government is to 
 keep all foreigners in an absolute ignorance of its 
 character, and as every kind of deception is resorted 
 to for the purpose, it is difficult to acquire a full know- 
 ledge of its nature. The very existence of a young 
 king is doubted, since from the time of the first visit 
 of Basil Hall, nearly forty years ago, to that of Com- 
 modore Perry, the same story has been told about the 
 minority of the ruling prince, and unless he is en- 
 dowed with perpetual childhood, or there has been a 
 succession of juvenile kings, it is difficult to reconcile 
 the experiences of the various travellers who have 
 visited Lew Chew in the long intervals of scores of 
 
210 EXPEDITION TO JAPAJN. 
 
 years. The literati, as in CHna and Japan, compose 
 the higher and ruling classes, and, as in those countries, 
 are prepared for official position by a diligent study 
 of the doctrines of Confucius and Mencius. In fact, 
 the young men belonging to families of rank are ordi- 
 narily sent to China to complete their education, and 
 fit them for their positions as officers of the govern- 
 ment. The exclusive policy of Japan is that also of 
 Lew Chew, and was rigidly adhered to until dissolved 
 by the intercourse of the Americans under Commodore 
 Perry. The system of espionage pervades the whole 
 government from the administration of the highest to 
 the lowest official. Most of the higher classes seem 
 to have little else to do than to watch every word and 
 movement of the people, and form a large body of indo- 
 lent non-producers, who live idly upon the hard-tasked 
 laborers of the lower classes, who are treated with aU 
 the rigor of social servitude. The great mass of the 
 people are literally slaves, the services of whom are 
 often bought and sold, and the poor wretches goaded 
 to their work by the frequent application of the bam- 
 boo. The country is supposed to have been conquered, 
 centuries ago, by a Japanese prince of Salsuma, to 
 the successor of whom it is believed to be tributary, 
 although there are some relations not well understood 
 with China. 
 
 The religion of Lew Chew is the generally preva- 
 lent Buddhism of the East, with a mixture of various 
 idolatries peculiar to the island ; there are, however, 
 not many temples in Lew Chew, and those which exist 
 do not attract a very large or a very devoted class of 
 worshippers. As in China and Japan, a general skep- 
 
BUBIAL OF DEAD. 
 
 211 
 
 ticism or religious indifference seems to exist, particu- 
 larly among the literati, or higher classes. The Bonzes, 
 or priests, however, are treated with greater rever- 
 ence in Lew Chew than in most oriental countries, 
 though they have the same forlorn look, and go about, 
 with their shaven crowns and fusty garments, like 
 similar miserable mendicants in China. 
 
 Great reverence is paid to the dead in Lew Chew, 
 where they are put in coffins in a sitting posture, and, 
 being followed by the friends and relations and a pro- 
 cession of women in long white veils which cover 
 their heads and faces, are interred in well built stone 
 
 Tombs in Lew Chew. 
 
 vaults, or tombs, constructed in the sides of the hills, 
 which, being of white limestone, are conspicuous ob- 
 jects, particularly on entering the harbor of l^apha. 
 After the body has been interred for a period of seven 
 
212 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 years and all the flesh is decayed, the bones are re- 
 moved and deposited in stone vases, which are placed 
 upon shelves within the vaults. The poor people 
 place the remains of their dead in earthen jars, and 
 deposit them in the crevices of the rocks, where they 
 are often to be seen broken and disarranged. Periodical 
 visits are paid by the surviving friends and relations 
 to the burial places, where they deposit offerings upon 
 the tombs. On the first interment of the rich dead, 
 roast pigs and other articles of food are offered, and 
 after being allowed to remain for a short time, are 
 distributed among the poor. 
 
 Tlie purposes of the Commodore in regard to the 
 island had been so far effectively carried out. The 
 building for the storing of coal had been com- 
 pleted, the ' temple appropriated for the accom- 
 modation of the sick and others, whose duties made 
 it necessary for them to reside on shore, had been 
 secured, and those supplies obtained which were 
 necessary for the squadron. "With an occasional faint 
 demur on the part of the authorities, they continued 
 to accept payment for the various articles needed, and 
 with their growing willingness to sell came an in- 
 creased demand for higher prices. The friendly inter- 
 course of the Americans with the inhabitants of the 
 island had undoubtedly greatly contributed to their 
 advantage. The most scrupulous regard had been 
 observed toward the rights of the authorities and 
 other classes, and they were all becoming less re- 
 served. It was not an unreasonable inference, from 
 the favorable disposition of the Lew Ohewan people 
 toward relations with a higher civilization, and from 
 
DEPARTTJEE FKOM LEW CHEW. 213 
 
 a seeming sense on their part of the oppressive tyran- 
 ny of their absolute rulers, that they would rejoice in 
 being placed in a political position that might render 
 them independent of Japanese despotism. 
 
 A more demonstrative indication of the friendly 
 feeling of the Lew Ohewans for their foreign visitors 
 would have been shown probably had it not been for 
 the numerous Japanese agents and spies who were 
 ever on the watch to notice and report to the impe- 
 rial government every event that occurred, and to 
 make those who manifested any friendship toward the 
 Americans accountable at some future time. 
 
 The Commodore, being detained at ]S"apha in ne- 
 gotiations with the authorities, thought it advisable 
 to despatch some of the sailing vessels of the squadron 
 to Yedo bay, with the intention of following soon after 
 with his steamers. He expected to arrive, with the 
 advantages of steam in his favor, in Japan at about 
 the same time with those who had preceded him in 
 their departure. 
 
 Accordingly, Captain Abbot sailed on the first, of 
 February in the Macedonian, in company with the 
 Yandalia, Lexington, and Southampton. The Com- 
 modore followed on the seventh of February, with the 
 steamers Susquehanna, Powhatan, and Mississippi. 
 The store-ship Supply had been got ready, and was 
 ordered to sail on the next day after the Commodore's 
 departure for Shanghai, there to take on board a cargo 
 of coal and some live stock, and proceed to join the 
 squadron in Yedo bay. It had been arranged that 
 Dr. Bettelheim, who had been superseded by another 
 English missionary, a Mr. Moreton, should have a pas- 
 
214 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 sage for himself and family in the Supply to Shang- 
 hai. Dr. Bettelheim was no favorite with the Lew 
 Chewans, who were anxious to get rid of him, and 
 never ceased to invoke the Commodore to " take that 
 man away." Dr. Bettelheim attributed this aversion 
 to the influence of government, and avowed that were 
 it not for its interpositioUj and its repression of all 
 freedom of thought and action, the people of Lew 
 Chew would be ready listeners to the teachers of 
 Christianitv. 
 
CHAPTEE X. 
 
 With smootli seas and prosperous winds, the steam- 
 ers made a rapid run, and on the fifth day after their 
 departure from ]S"apha, in Lew Chew, arrived off the 
 mouth of the Bay of Yedo. A severe blow from the 
 northward and eastward forced the vessels, however, 
 to keep during the night under the lee of the island 
 of Oho-Sima, in order to avoid the violence of the 
 gale. The next day, however, opening more favor- 
 ably, the three steamers stood up the bay. The out- 
 lines of the coast were recognized from the recollec- 
 tions of the previous visit, but a gi-eat change had 
 come over the face of the landscape in consequence 
 of the difference of season. The precipitous bluffs of 
 Cape Sagami rose bleakly in the wintry atmosphere 
 on the left, and the irregular coast of Awa, some 
 twelve miles away on the right, showed dim and blue 
 in the distance. The summit of Mount Fuzee-Yama 
 peered high above the island of Niphon, and was 
 now, with the surrounding mountains, completely 
 clothed in a winter mantle of snow. The rich ver- 
 dure of the land had lost its cheerful summer aspect, 
 and looked withered, bleak, and sombre. The abun- 
 
216 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 dant vegetation of the valleys was stripped of its fo- 
 liage, and the bare trees swayed to and fro in the 
 wintry wind which swept through them. Along the 
 shores every where thronged the villages and towns, 
 which looked desolate and exposed in comparison 
 with their former appearance of rural comfort when 
 nestling in the full-leaved groves of summer. 
 
 On the steamers closing in with the shore on the 
 left, as they advanced up the bay, two square-rigged 
 vessels were observed, apparently at anchor, within a 
 bight of the land in the neighborhood of Kama-Kura. 
 They were soon discovered to be the Macedonian and 
 Yandalia, the former of which had got aground by 
 mistaking the bearings of the coast, and was now 
 being assisted by her consort, which had gone to her 
 relief. "With the aid of the steamers the Macedonian 
 was soon relieved from her perilous position, but as 
 the day was far advanced, the whole squadron, in- 
 cluding the Lexington, which had arrived during the 
 evening, anchored for the night. 
 
 In the course of the night a boat came alongside 
 the Commodore's flag-ship, having been despatched 
 by Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, of the Southamp- 
 ton, which vessel, another of Captain Abbott's division, 
 had arrived the day before at the American anchor- 
 age in the Bay of Yedo. 
 
 Lieutenant Boyle had received information from 
 the Japanese authorities that two ships had arrived 
 off Kama-Kura, and that one of them was ashore, 
 and very promptly despatched the launch of the 
 Southampton, with two officers and a suitable crew, 
 to render all practicable assistance. 
 
AMEBICAN ASrCHOEAGE. 217 
 
 The friendly disposition of the Japanese toward 
 the Americans was handsomely illaetrated by their 
 offers of assistance as soon as the Macedonian was ob- 
 served ashore. Such, too, was their courteous and 
 scrupulous regard for the interests and property of 
 their visitors, that they actually took the trouble of 
 sending to the squadron, then at a distance of twenty 
 miles, a hogshead of bituminous coal, which had been 
 thrown overboard on lightening the ship, and subse- 
 quently washed ashore. 
 
 l^ext morning (February 13th), the three steamers, 
 the Powhatan, Mississippi, and Susquehanna, with 
 the Lexington, Yandalia, and Macedonian in tow, 
 moved up the Bay of Yedo, sailing in a line ahead. 
 With the experience of the navigation acquired on 
 the previous visit, there was no occasion for the ships 
 to feel their way cautiously as before, and they now 
 confidently advanced up the magnificent bay. As 
 the squadron doubled the promontory of Uraga, and 
 passed the old anchorage abreast of the town, a large 
 number of government boats, with their athletic oars- 
 men sculling vigorously, and their little striped flags 
 fluttering in the wind, pushed off to intercept the 
 ships as on the previous visit. The squadron, how- 
 ever, moved on majestically without altering its course 
 a line, or lingering a moment in its speed, until the 
 anchorage was reached. The place in which the ves- 
 sels came to anchor was the appointed rendezvous, 
 termed on the previous visit the " American Anchor- 
 age," and where the Southampton, having arrived in 
 advance of all the ships, was now found moored. 
 The three steamers and four ships presented a formi- 
 10 
 
218 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 dable force. Sucli a vigorous manifestation of power 
 on tlie part of a far-renaote nation, within the very 
 centre of Japan, and at the distance of only an hour's 
 sail from the capital, must have greatly impressed the 
 secluded Japanese with the wonderful energies and 
 resources of the United States and their own utter 
 powerlessness to cope with them. 
 
 The " American Anchorage " is situated on the 
 western side of the Bay of Yedo, in the bight em- 
 braced within two bold headlands, about twelve miles 
 distant from each other. The position of the squad- 
 ron was thus less than twenty miles from the capital 
 of Yedo itself, and at about the same distance up the 
 bay from the town of Uraga, which had been the 
 scene of the interview during the previous visit on 
 the reception of the President's letter. Although the 
 winter is not very severe in that part of Japan, the 
 climate of which is similar to that of Carolina, yet 
 there was a very apparent change of season in the as- 
 pect of the country, as, in fact, in the temperature of 
 the atmosphere. The thermometer in the month of 
 February did not often indicate a degree of cold less 
 than 38°, but frequent blustering winds, prevalent 
 fogs and rains, and occasional snow storms, made the 
 weather chilly and uncomfortable. The surrounding 
 country, in spite of the groves of ever-green pines, 
 had a wintry look, and the vegetation even in the 
 sheltered valleys was comparatively bare, while the 
 distant hills and mountains were covered, with snow. 
 The island that had been called Perry's, which had 
 presented such a picturesque appearance with its ver- 
 dant groves during the summer, now lay within sight 
 
BOARDED BY JAPANESE. 219 
 
 of tlie squadron comparativelj winter-stricken, witli 
 many of its trees stripped of their foliage by the 
 winds and frost, and with the fort which crowns the 
 summit of the rising ground more plainly visible. 
 The villages of Otsu and Torrigaske, within the bend 
 of the bay, about a mile distant from the anchorage, 
 now but partially sheltered by the pines, stood out, 
 with the staring surfaces and sharp outlines of their 
 peaked-roofed and unpainted boarded houses, more 
 distinctly defined. 
 
 Two of the government boats had followed in the 
 wake of the squadron as it moved up to its anchor- 
 age, and the ships had hardly let go their anchors 
 when the boats came alongside the flag-ship Sus- 
 quehanna. The Japanese officials on board desired 
 to see the Commodore, but as he was still determined 
 to preserve a strict exclusiveness, and only present 
 himself officially to the highest dignitaries of the em- 
 pire, they were refused admission to the Susquehanna, 
 and were directed to the steamer Powhatan. Here 
 they were received by Captain Adams, when the 
 members of the Japanese deputation were officially 
 announced by their names, titles, and offices. The 
 chief dignitary was Kurakawa Kahie, and his subor- 
 dinates were two interpreters, who were recognized 
 as those who had officiated on a former occasion, and 
 three gray-robed individuals, who seemed to be mak- 
 ing excellent use of their eyes and their note-books, 
 and turned out to be Metske Devantigers — literally 
 cross-eyed persons, or those who look in. all directions 
 — whose function was that of spies or reporters. Upon 
 being admitted to an audience, the Japanese inter- 
 
220 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 preters explained that the object of the visit of the 
 deputation was to prevail upon the Commodore to 
 move his ships to Uraga, where, as they stated, there 
 were some high dignitaries appointed by the Emperor 
 to meet the Americans. The Commodore bad, how- 
 ever, resolved not to go back to Uraga, and Captain 
 Adams so stated to the Japanese, who, however, in- 
 sisted that the proposed interview for the reception 
 of the answer to the President's letter and for the ar- 
 rangement of a treaty, must be held there, in accor- 
 dance with the imperial command. They then were 
 told that if the Japanese Commissioners would not 
 consent to meet the Commodore at a point opposite 
 to his present anchorage, he would move his ships 
 further up the bay, and even to the capital itself, if 
 it should be deemed necessary. 
 
 Captain Adams, in the course of the conversation, 
 alluded to the report of the death of the Emperor (of 
 which the Commodore had received intimation through 
 the Governor-General of Dutch India), but was not 
 very explicit in his question, as there seemed to be 
 some doubt of its truth. He merely stated that when 
 the squadron had sailed for Japan he had heard that 
 a high dignitary had died, and asked whether it was 
 true. To which the Japanese answered, " Yes, a very 
 high man died lately." Captain A. — " "What was his 
 rank ? " Japanese official. — " He was a prince." It 
 was thus a matter of the greatest difficulty to get at 
 the truth, the Japanese being as indirect and evasive 
 as possible in regard to the simplest matter of fact. 
 
 Day after day the Japanese officials repeated their 
 visits, and pertinaciously insisted upon the Commo- 
 
TEZAIMON AGAIN. 221 
 
 dore's going to Uraga, while he resolutely and em- 
 phatically reiterated his refusal. 
 
 It was thought possible that negotiations might 
 be facilitated by sending Captain Adams to confer 
 directly with one of the princes at Uraga. He ac- 
 cordingly was despatched in the Yandalia, and held 
 an interview with the Prince Hayashi-Dai-Gaku-no- 
 Kami, in the course of which the Commodore's views 
 were again urged by Captain Adams, and were met 
 with the usual objections by the Japanese dignitary. 
 
 "While the Vandalia was lying off Uraga, Yezai- 
 mon, the Governor of Uraga, presented himself. This, 
 it will be remembered, was the dignitary who had 
 figured so conspicuously during the fi^rst visit of the 
 squadron to the Bay of Yedo. His absence hitherto 
 had created great surprise, and it was naturally feared 
 that his conduct on the previoiis occasion had not 
 been approved of by his government, and that he had 
 fallen into disgrace, or possibly had been reduced to 
 the disagreeable necessity of disembowelling himself. 
 He, however, explained his long absence on the score 
 of illness, and the immense pressure of public busi- 
 ness. He expressed great pleasure in seeing his old 
 acquaintances, and proved himself the same affable, 
 courteous gentleman, as on all previous occasions. 
 Yezaimon explained the object of his visit by pre- 
 senting a letter from himself, in which he informally, 
 as he stated, though undoubtedly with the connivance 
 of the government, repeated the assurances of the 
 friendly disposition of the Emperor, and earnestly 
 solicited Captain Adams to use his influence with the 
 " Admiral " to prevail upon him to concede the point 
 
222 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 in regard to Uraga. Every thing, of course, was 
 referred to Commodore Perry, although the belief 
 was expressed that he would resolutely adhere to his 
 original determination. 
 
 Captain Adams now gave Yezaimon a letter which 
 had been written to his friends by a Japanese who 
 belonged to the squadron, and was generally known 
 among the sailors by the nickname of Sam Patch. 
 Sam was one of the crew, consisting of sixteen men, 
 of a Japanese junk which had been driven off in a 
 storm from the coast of Japan. An American mer- 
 chant vessel, having fallen in with the junk, took the 
 Japanese on board and conveyed them to San Fran- 
 cisco, where they were removed to a revenue cutter. 
 They remained in the cutter twelve months, when 
 they were taken by the United States sloop-of-war St. 
 Mary's to China, and there transfeiTcd to the Susque- 
 hanna. When this steamer joined Commodore Per- 
 ry's squadron, bound to Japan, the Japanese all pre- 
 ferred to remain in China, lest if they returned home 
 they should lose their lives, with the exception of Sam 
 Patch, who remained on board, and being regularly 
 shipped as one of the crew, was with the squadron on 
 the first, as he was now on the second visit to Japan. 
 Upon his letter being presented to Yezaimon, he was 
 requested to deliver it in accordance with the direc- 
 tion, which he promised to do, but the Japanese 
 seemed very much surprised at the fact of one of 
 their countrymen being among the crew, and ex- 
 pressed an earnest desire to see him. Yezaimon was 
 accordingly promised that his request should be com- 
 plied with in the course of a few days. 
 
SAM PATCH. JiZd 
 
 According to agreement, Sam Patch was brought 
 forward, on a subsequent occasion, and presented to the 
 Japanese officials, and no sooner did he behold these 
 dignitaries than he prostrated himself at once, apparent- 
 ly completely awe-stricken. Sam had been frequently 
 laughed at during the voyage by his messmates, and 
 teased by statements of the danger to which his head 
 would be exposed on his arrival in his own country, 
 and the poor fellow possibly thought his last hour had 
 come. Captain Adams ordered him to rise from his 
 knees, upon which he was crouching with the most 
 abject fear, and trembling in every limb. He was 
 reminded that he was on board an American man-of- 
 war, perfectly safe as one of her crew, and had noth- 
 ing to fear ; but it being found impossible to reassure 
 him while in the presence of his countrymen, he was 
 Boon dismissed. 
 
 The Japanese, finding that the Commodore was 
 not to be moved from his fixed resolve, at last yielded 
 the point, and, giving up Uraga, appointed Yokuliama, 
 a place much higher up the bay, for the proposed in- 
 terview with the Commissioners. Ten days, however, 
 had been spent in fruitless negotiations, and the Com- 
 modore had put his threat into execiition of moving 
 his ships toward Yedo, and had approached so near 
 to the capital that the striking of its night-watches 
 could be distinctly heard, before the Japanese digni- 
 taries had shown any disposition toward concession. 
 
 Yokuhama is one of the numerous villages which 
 succeed each other in an almost uninterrupted series 
 along both sides of the Bay of Yedo, from the sea to 
 the capital. It is situated at the head of what the 
 
224 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Americans have called Treaty Bay, and is distant 
 about nine miles from Yedo. The Japanese having 
 
 View of Tokutama. 
 
 hastily erected a temporary wooden building on the 
 shore near the village, and the Commodore having 
 anchored his squadron, consisting of three steamers 
 and six sailing vessels, so as completely to command 
 the position, the conference took place on the 8th of 
 March. 
 
 The Americans proceeded in large numbers to the 
 shore, and having formed an imposing procession, 
 with their officers, marines, and sailors in uniform, 
 and their bands playing, escorted the Commodore 
 and his suite to the entrance of the building. Tliere 
 was less military display on the part of the Japanese 
 than there had been on the occasion of the reception 
 of the President's letter. There were, however, nu- 
 merous groups of pikcmen, musicians, and flag-bear- 
 ers, in showy costume, with their coats emblazoned 
 with armorial bearings, arrayed on either side of the 
 
CONFERENCE WITH COMMISSIONERS, 
 
 225 
 
 approach. They were principally the retainers of the 
 princes who were members of the Commission ap- 
 pointed to confer with the Commodore, and were 
 only present to add to the show of the occasion. The 
 building itself was tricked off with streamers and ban- 
 ners, and draped in front with a curtain, upon which 
 was painted the arms of the Emperor, consisting of 
 
 £M PE.RO K. 
 
 three clover-leaves embraced within a circle. Striped 
 canvas was stretched on either side of the building 
 for a long distance, and barriers were erected to keep 
 off the multitude of Japanese who thronged about 
 with eager curiosity. 
 
 The Commissioners had been observed from the 
 ships to come down from the neighboring town of 
 KanagawH, at an early hour, in their state barge. 
 This was a large and gayly painted vessel, which, 
 with its pavilion rising high above the hull, had very 
 much the appearance of a Mississippi steamboat. 
 White streamers floated from tall flag-staffs, varie- 
 gated drapery adorned the open deck above, and a 
 huge silken tassel fell from the prow nearly to the sur- 
 face of the water. A fleet of row-boats towed the barge 
 10* 
 
226 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 opposite to the landing, and the Commissioners then 
 disembarked, while the crews of the thousand Japan- 
 ese craft in the bay prostrated themselves as the dig- 
 nitaries passed to the shore. 
 
 The apartment into which the Commodore and his 
 officers first entered was a large hall, arranged in a 
 similar manner to that at Gorihama. Thick rice- 
 straw mats carpeted the floor ; long and wide settees, 
 covered with a red cloth, extended along the sides, 
 with tables, spread with the same material, arranged 
 in front of them. The windows were composed of 
 panes of oiled paper, through which a subdued and 
 mellow light illuminated the hall, while a comfort- 
 able temperature was kept up — for, although the 
 spring, which is early in Japan, had already opened, 
 the weather was chilly — by copper brasiers of burn- 
 ing charcoal, which, supported upon lacquered wooden 
 
 HAyASHI,.CHIEE QOMMlaSB 
 
 stands, were freely distributed about. Hangings fell 
 from the walls, adorned with paintings of trees and 
 representations of the crane, with its long neck, in 
 every variety of strange involution. 
 
 The Commodore and his officers and interpreters 
 
THE FIVE COMMISSIOJSTEKS. 237 
 
 had hardly taken their seats on the left, the place of 
 honor, and the various Japanese officials, of whom 
 there was a goodly number, theirs on the right, when 
 the five Commissioners entered from an apartment 
 
 IDO, PRINCE OF TSUS-SIMH IJAWA, PRINCE OF MlWASAm 
 
 SECOND COMMS third COWMISS? 
 
 which opened through an entrance at the upper end 
 of the hall. As soon as they came in, the subordi- 
 nate Japanese officials prostrated themselves on their 
 knees, and remained in that attitude during their 
 presence. 
 
 The Commissioners were certainly august-looking 
 personages, and their long beards, their grave but 
 courteous manners, and their rich flowing robes of 
 silk, set them off to the highest advantage. Their cos- 
 tume consisted of an under garment somewhat simi- 
 lar to the antique doublet, and a pair of very wide 
 and short trousers of figured silk, which are charac- 
 teristic of rank, while below, their legs were in- 
 cased in white cotton socks, laced to some distance 
 above the ankles. The socks were so contrived that 
 the great toe was separated from the other four for 
 the passage of the band which was attached to the 
 sandal, and joined another from the heel at the ankle, 
 
228 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 where the two were tied together. Over the doublet 
 and trowsers a loose gown of embroidered silk, some- 
 what of the shape of the clerical robe, with loose 
 sleeves, was worn. This was secured to the waist, in 
 which were thrust the two swords, a large and a small 
 one, which mark the dignitaries of higher rank. 
 
 Hayashi-dai-gaku-no-Kami, or Prince Counsellor, 
 was evidently the chief member of the Commission, 
 for all matters of importance were referred to him. He 
 was a man of about fifty-five years of age, was hand- 
 somely formed, with a grave and rather saturnine ex- 
 pression of face, though he had a benevolent look, and 
 was of exceedingly courtly manners. Ido, Prince of 
 Tousima, was probably fifty, or thereabout, and was 
 corpulent, and tall in person. He had a rather more 
 vivacious expression than the elder Hayashi. The 
 
 TSUDSUKI, PRINCE 0F3URUGA 
 FOURTH COMMISSI. 
 
 UDONO,MEMBE-R b'O REVENU6 
 FIFTH.. COMM.ISSIO.NEa 
 
 third, and youngest of the princes was the Prince of 
 Mimi-Saki, who could hardly be much beyond forty 
 years of age, and was far the best looking of the 
 three. 
 
 Udono, who, though not a prince, was a man of 
 high station, and was known by the title of Mimbu- 
 
MAT8TJ8AKI. 
 
 229 
 
 Shiyoyu, or Member of the Board of Eevenue, was a 
 tall, passable-looking man, but bis features were pro- 
 minent, and bad mucb of the Mongolian cast. The 
 fifth and last one of the five Commissioners was Mat- 
 susaki Micbitaro, whose rank and title were not dis- 
 
 TAKE-NO-UCHl SHEI'TARO- 
 SIXTH COMMISSI 
 
 MATSUSAKI MICHITARO, 
 SEV.ENTH COMMS, 
 
 covered. His precise business in the Commission it 
 was difficult to fathom. ; he was always present at the 
 conference, but took bis seat constantly at rather a 
 remote distance from the other dignitaries, on the 
 further end of the sedan. By him, there was — con- 
 tinually crouched upon his knees — a scribe, who 
 was constantly employed in taking notes of what 
 was passing. Matsusaki was a man of sixty years 
 of age 'at least, bad a long, drawn out, meagre 
 body, a very yellow, bilious face, and an uncomfor- 
 table, dyspeptic expression, which his excessive short- 
 sightedness did not improve, for it caused him, in his 
 efforts at seeing, to give a very wry distortion to a 
 countenance naturally not very handsome. 
 
 Moryama Yenoske was the principal interpreter 
 who officiated on the occasion. As soon as the Com- 
 missioners had taken their seats, Yenoske took his 
 
230 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 position, on his knees, at the feet of Hayashi the chief, 
 and humbly awaited his orders. 
 
 The crouching position in which an inferior places 
 himself when in the presence of his superior in rank, 
 seems very easy to a Japanese, but would be very diffi- 
 cult and painful for one to assume who had not been ac- 
 customed to it. The ordinary mode pursued is to drop 
 on the knees, cross the feet, and cock up the heels, 
 with the toes, instep, and calves of the legs brought 
 together into close contact. Sometimes it is a mere 
 squatting down, with the soles firm upon the ground, 
 the knees bent, and the body crouched low. Yenoske 
 was quite an adept in these manoeuvres, as were his 
 coadjutors, and especially the Prefect Kura-Kawaka- 
 hei, who was one of the subordinate functionaries 
 present during the conference. 
 
 The Commissioners, after a momentary silence, 
 spoke a word to the prostrate Yenoske, who listened 
 an instant with downcast eyes, and then, by a skilful 
 manoeuvre, still upon his knees, moved toward the 
 Commodore's interpreter, and having communicated 
 his message, which proved to be merely the ordinary 
 compliments, with an inquiry after the health of the 
 Commodore and his officers, returned with an appro- 
 priate answer, to his former position. An interchange 
 of various polite messages having been thus borne 
 backward and forward for several minutes, through the 
 medium of the humble but useful Yenoske, refresh- 
 ments, consisting of tea in porcelain cups, of cakes, 
 and some confectionery, served on lacquered trays, 
 were handed round. 
 
 It was now proposed by the Commissioners that an 
 
SIGNING OF TREATY. 231 
 
 adjournment should take place to another room. Ac- 
 cordingly, the Commodore having consented, he, 
 accompanied by the captain of the fleet, his two in- 
 terpreters, and secretary, was conducted into another 
 and much smaller room, the entrance to which was 
 only separated from the principal hall by a blue silk 
 flag, ornamented in the centre with the embroidered 
 arms of Japan, On entering, the Commissioners were 
 found already seated on the right, they having with- 
 drawn previously to the Commodore, and arranged 
 themselves in rank upon one of the red divans which 
 extended along the sides of the apartment. The 
 Commodore and his party took their seats on the left, 
 and business commenced — the Commissioners having 
 preliminarily stated that it was a Japanese custom to 
 speak slowly. 
 
 The chief Commissioner now handed the Commo- 
 dore a long roll of paper, which proved to be an 
 answer* to the President's letber, delivered on the 
 previous visit at Gori-hama, in July. After some 
 conversation in regard to the negotiations under con- 
 sideration, the meeting broke up, and the Commodore 
 and his escort returned to the ships. Several pro- 
 longed conferences ensued, and the treaty f was not 
 finally agreed upon and signed until the 31st of 
 March, 1854. 
 
 Business being over, there was now an opportunity 
 for an interchange of courtesies, and for a friendly 
 hobnobbing between the Americans and the Japanese, 
 to which the latter, with all their supposed exclusive- 
 ness and reserve, were by no means indisposed. The 
 
 * See Appendix. t See Appendix. 
 
232 EXPEDITION TO JAPAW. 
 
 Commodore had provided himself with a variety of 
 presents for the Emperor and the Japanese dignitaries, 
 and now took occasion to deliver them. He accord- 
 ingly sent the telegraph apparatus and the diminutive 
 railway on shore, and the American sailors, aided by 
 the Japanese, were soon busy in putting them in work- 
 ing order. In addition to these there was a liberal 
 supply of books, Colt's pistols, Champagne, whisky, 
 and perfumery. The Japanese were not to be outdone 
 in generosity, and, accordingly, had provided a quan- 
 tity of articles of the mantifacture of their country as 
 return gifts. These consisted of rich brocades and 
 silks, chow-chow boxes for carrying provisions, tables, 
 trays, and goblets, all made of the famous lacquered 
 ware ; of porcelain cups, pipe-cases, umbrellas, and 
 various specimens of the Japanese wardi'obe. There 
 was one article which deserves mention, as it is a uni- 
 versal accompaniment of all presents ; it consisted of 
 a bit of salt-fish, wrapped in sea-weed, and tied in an 
 envelope of paper. 
 
 Fish Present. 
 
 These presents having been duly arranged in the 
 Treaty House at Yokuhama, the Commodore and his 
 
JAPANESE PRESENTS. 233 
 
 officers were invited by the Japanese Commissioners, 
 on a certain day, to receive them. After the ceremony 
 of the reception of the various gifts displayed on the 
 occasion, the Commodore prepared to depart, when 
 Prince Hayashi said there was one article intended 
 for the President, which had not yet been exhibited. 
 The Commodore and his officers were accordingly 
 conducted to the beach, where one or two hundred 
 sacks of rice were pointed out, piled up in readiness 
 to be sent on board the ships. As such an immense 
 supply of substantial food seemed to excite the won- 
 derment of the Americans, who were naturally aghast 
 at the idea of conveying such a stock of Japanese 
 rice to tlie remote distance of the White House — and, 
 moreover, loading themselves with so much coal for 
 l^ewcastle — the interpreter, Yenoske, remarked that 
 it was always customary for the Japanese, when be- 
 stowing presents, to include a certain quantity of 
 rice. 
 
 While contemplating these substantial evidences 
 of Japanese generosity, the attention of the Commo- 
 dore and his party was suddenly riveted upon a body 
 of monstrous fellows who came tramping down the 
 beach like so many huge elephants. They were pro- 
 fessional wrestlers, and formed part of the retinue of 
 the Japanese princes, who keep them for their private 
 amusement and for public entertainments. They were 
 twenty-five in all, and were men enormously tall in 
 stature and immense in weight of flesh. Their scant 
 costume — which was merely a colored cloth about the 
 loins, adorned with fringes, and emblazoned with the 
 armorial bearings of the prince to whose service each 
 
234 EXPEDITIOK TO JAPAIT. 
 
 belonged — revealed their gigantic proportions, in all 
 the bloated fulnes of fat and breadth of muscle. Their 
 proprietors, the princes, seemed prond of them, and 
 were careful to show their points to the greatest ad- 
 vantage before the astonished spectators. Some two 
 or three of the huge monsters were the most famous 
 wrestlers in Japan, and ranked as the champion Tom 
 Cribs and Hyers of the land. Koyanagi, the reputed 
 bully of the capital, was one of these, and paraded 
 himself with conscious pride of superior immensity 
 and strength. He was brought especially to the 
 Commodore, that he might exaniine his massive form. 
 The Commissioners insisted that the monstrous fellow 
 should be minutely inspected, that the hardness of his 
 well-rounded muscles should be felt, and that the fat- 
 ness of his cushioned frame should be tested by the 
 touch. The Commodore accordingly attempted to 
 grasp his arm, which he found as solid as it was huge, 
 and then passed his hand over the enormous neck, 
 which fell, in folds of massive flesh, like the dew-lap 
 of a prize-ox. As some surprise was naturally ex- 
 pressed at this wondrous exhibition of animal develop- 
 ment, the monster himself gave a grunt, expressive of 
 his flattered vanity. 
 
 They were all so immense in flesh, that they ap- 
 peared to have lost their distinctive features, and 
 seemed only twenty-five masses of fat. Their eyes 
 were barely visible through a long perspective of 
 socket, the prominence of their noses was lost in the 
 pufiiness of their bloated cheeks, and their heads were 
 almost directly set upon their bodies, with only folds 
 of flesh where the neck and chin are usually found. 
 
THE WEESTLEES. 235 
 
 Their great size, however, was more owing to the 
 development of muscle than to the mere deposition of 
 fat ; for although they were evidently will fed, they 
 were not the less well exercised and capable of great 
 feats of strength. As a preliminary exhibition of the 
 power of these men, the princes set them to removing 
 the sacks of rice to a convenient place on the shore 
 for shipping. All the sacks weighed one hundred and 
 twenty-five pounds apiece, and there were only a 
 couple of the wrestlers who did not each carrry two 
 sacks at a time. They bore the sacks on the right 
 shoulder, lifting the first from the ground themselves 
 and adjusting it, but obtaining aid for the raising of 
 the second. One man carried a sack suspended by 
 his teeth, and another, taking one in his arms, kept 
 turning repeated somersaults as he held it, and appa- 
 rently with as much ease as if his tons of flesh had 
 been only so much gossamer, and his load a feather. 
 
 After this preliminary display, the Commissioners 
 proposed that the Commodore and his party should 
 retire to the Treaty House, where they would have 
 an opportunity of seeing the wrestlers exhibit their 
 professional feats. The wrestlers themselves were 
 most carefully provided for, having constantly about 
 them a number of attendants, who were always at 
 hand to supply them with fans, which they often re- 
 quired, and to assist them in dressing and undressing. 
 While at rest, they were ordinarily clothed in richly 
 adorned robes of the usual Japa,nese fashion ; but 
 when exercising, they were stripped naked, with the 
 exception of the cloth about the loins. After the per- 
 formance with the sacks of rice, their servitors spread 
 
236 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 upon the huge frames of the wrestlers their rich gar- 
 ments, and led them up to the Treaty House. 
 
 A circular space of some twelve feet in diameter 
 had been inclosed within a ring, and the ground care- 
 fully broken up and smoothed in front of the build- 
 ing ; while in the portico divans covered with red 
 cloth were arranged for the Japanese Commissioners, 
 the Commodore, his officers, and their various attend- 
 ants. The bands from the ships were also present, 
 and enlivened the intervals during the performance 
 with occasional stirring tunes. As soon as the spec- 
 tators had taken their seats, the naked wrestlers were 
 brought out into the ring, and the whole number being 
 divided into two opposing parties, tramped heavily 
 backward and forward, looking defiance at each other, 
 but not engaging in any contest, as their object was 
 merely to parade their points, to give the beholders, 
 
THE ENCODNTEE. 237 
 
 as it were, an. opportunity to form an estimate of their 
 comparative powers, and to make up their betting- 
 books. They soon retired behind some screens placed 
 for the purpose, where all, with the exception of two, 
 were again clothed in full dress, and took their position 
 on seats in front of the spectators. 
 
 The two who had been reserved out of the band, 
 now, on the signal being given by the heralds, pre- 
 sented themselves. They came in, one after the other, 
 from behind the screens, and walked with slow and 
 deliberate steps, as became such huge animals, into 
 the centre of the ring. Here they ranged themselves, 
 one against the other, at a distance of a few yards. 
 They stood for a while eyeing each other with a wary 
 look, as if both were watching a chance to catch 
 their antagonist off his guard. As the spectator looked 
 on and beheld these overfed monsters, whose animal 
 natures had been so carefully and successfully de- 
 veloped, and as he watched them, glaring with brutal 
 ferocity at each other, ready to exhibit the cruel in- 
 stincts of a savage nature, it was easy for him to lose 
 all sense of their being human creatures, and to per- 
 suade himself he was beholding a couple of brute 
 beasts thirsting for one another's blood. 
 
 They were, in fact, like a pair of fierce bulls, 
 whose nature they had not only acquired, but even 
 their look and movements. As they continued to eye 
 each other, they stamped the ground heavily, pawing, 
 as it were, with impatience, and then stooping their 
 huge bodies, they grasped handfuls of the earth, and 
 flung it with an angry toss over their backs, or rubbed 
 it impatiently between their massive palms or under 
 
238 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 their stalwart shoulders. They now crouched down 
 low, still keeping their eyes fixed upon one another 
 and watching each movement, and in a moment they 
 had both simultaneously heaved their massive frames 
 in opposing force, body to body, with a shock that 
 might have stunned an ox. The equilibrium of their 
 monstrous persons was hardly disturbed by the en- 
 counter, the efi'ect of which was but barely visible in 
 the quiver of the hanging flesh of their bodies. As 
 they came together, they had flung their brawny arms 
 about each other, and were now entwined in a despe- 
 rate struggle, with all their strength, to throw their 
 antagonist. Their great muscles rose with the distinct 
 outline of the sculptured form of a colossal Hercules, 
 their bloated faces swelled up with gushes of red 
 blood, which seemed almost to burst through the skin, 
 and their huge bodies palpitated with savage emotion 
 as the struggle continued. At last, one of the antag- 
 onists fell with his immense weight upon the ground, 
 and being declared vanquished, he was assisted to his 
 feet and conducted from the ring. 
 
 The scene was now somewhat varied by a change 
 in the kind of contest between the two succeeding 
 wrestlers. The heralds, as before, summoned the an- 
 tagonists, and one having taken his place in the ring, 
 he assumed an attitude of defence, with one leg in 
 advance as if to steady himself, and his body, with 
 his head lowered, placed in position as if to receive 
 an attack. Immediately after, in rushed the other, 
 bellowing loudly like a bull, and, making at once 
 for the man in the ring, dashed, with his head 
 lowered and thrust forward, against his opponent, who 
 
TELEGRAPH AND KAILEOAD. 239 
 
 bore the shock with the steadiness of a rock, although 
 the blood streamed down his face from his bruised 
 forehead, which had been struck in the encounter. 
 This manoeuvre was repeated again and again, one 
 acting always as the opposing and the other as the 
 resisting force, and thus they kept up this brutal con- 
 test until their foreheads were besmeared with blood, 
 and the flesh of their breasts rose in great swollen 
 tumors from the repeated blows. This disgusting ex- 
 hibition did not terminate until the whole twenty-five 
 had successively, in pairs, displayed their immense 
 powers and savage qualities. 
 
 From the brutal performance of the wrestlers, the 
 Americans turned with pride to the exhibition to 
 which the Japanese Commissioners were in their turn 
 invited, of those triumphs of civilization — the tele- 
 graph and the railroad. The telegraphic wires ex- 
 tended nearly a mile in a direct line, one end being 
 at the Treaty House and another at a building allotted 
 for the purpose. "When communication was opened 
 up between the operators at either extremity, the 
 Japanese watched with intense curiosity the modus 
 operandi, and were greatly amazed to find that in an 
 instant of time messages were conveyed in the. Eng- 
 lish, Dutch, and Japanese languages from building to 
 building. 
 
 ISTor did the railway, with its Lilliputian locomo- 
 tive, car, and tender, excite less interest. All the 
 parts of the mechanism were perfect, and the car was 
 a most tasteful specimen of workmanship, but so small 
 that it could hardly carry a child of six years of age. 
 The Japanese, however, were not to be cheated out of 
 
240 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 a ride, and, as they were unable to reduce themelves to 
 the capacity of the inside of the carriage, they betook 
 themselves to the roof. It was a spectacle not a little 
 ludicrous to behold a dignified mandarin whirling 
 around the circular road at the rate of twenty miles 
 an hour, with his loose robes flying in the wind. As 
 he clung with a desperate hold to the edge of the roof, 
 grinning with intense interest, and his huddled up 
 body shook convulsively with a kind of laughing 
 timidity, you might have supposed that the move- 
 ment, somehow or other, was dependent rather upon 
 the enormous exertions of the uneasy mandarin than 
 upon the power of the little pufling locomotive which 
 was so easily performing its work. 
 
CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 To celebrate the occasion of the signing of the 
 treaty, invitations to dinner were exchanged between 
 the Commodore and the Japanese Commissioners. 
 The American feast was to come off first, and accord- 
 ingly on the day appointed the Powhatan was made 
 resplendent, with all her streamers flying, and all the 
 spare bunting tastily hung in fanciful devices about 
 the decks and shrouds. A large number of officers 
 from the various ships, in full uniform, gathered to 
 assist as hosts during the festival, and the marines 
 and sailors were dressed up and grouped in the most 
 effective manner. As the Japanese party was to be 
 large and composed of different ranks, it was found 
 necessary to spread two tables, one in the cabin for 
 the High Commissioners, and another on the quarter- 
 deck, beneath the awning, for the minor officials and 
 subordinates. The Japanese guests arrived in due 
 time and in great numbers, there being no less than 
 seventy in all, and were received with salvos of artil- 
 lery from the various ships, and a cheerful burst of 
 music from the bands. 
 
 The five Commissioners were conducted to the 
 11 
 
242 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 cabin, where they were entertained by the Commo- 
 dore and several of his superior officers. Yenoske, 
 the interpreter, was also allowed, by special favor, to 
 eat and drink in the august presence of his superiors, 
 but only at a side table, where, however, he showed, 
 though inferior in dignity, that he was at least equal, 
 if not superior, in appetite to his betters. The Com- 
 modore had. long intended to give this banquet, pro- 
 vided a successful result to his negotiations should 
 justify such a conviviality, and had accordingly kept 
 in reserve half a score of bullocks, a large supply of 
 Shanghai fowls, and a flock of sheep or so, for the 
 occasion. These, together with the ordinary cabin 
 stores of pates, preserved game, various delicacies, 
 and the unlimited resources of the Commodore's 
 French cook, served to spread a feast that was not 
 only substantial and abounding, but choice and appe- 
 tizing. Wines, Kqueurs, and other more potent drinka- 
 bles, of course, abounded, and were by no means the 
 least appreciated by the guests. The sweetness of 
 the maraschino found great favor with the taste of 
 the Commissioners, while its strength did not seem to 
 raise any serious objection, although its effect was 
 very perceptible. 
 
 The Japanese dignitaries, with the exception of 
 Hayashi-no-Kami, who ate and drank sparingly, 
 proved themselves excellent trenchermen and " fair 
 drinkers." The j ovial Matsua-Saki was soon lost to all 
 sense of Japanese reserve, and passed rapidly, under 
 the combined influence of Champagne, maraschino, 
 and Monongahela whisky, through all the gradations 
 of bacchanalian delight, until he reached the st^ge of 
 
JAPANESE POCKETING THE FOOD. 243 
 
 maudlin affection, which he demonstrated rather in- 
 conveniently by embracing his host, and very serious- 
 ly damaging a new pair of golden epaulets. 
 
 The party on deck, which was much larger and 
 more miscellaneous in rank and character, in the 
 mean time, had become very uproarious, after having 
 made way with unlimited supplies of solid food and 
 numberless bowls of punch. Nor were the Japanese 
 satisfied with what they so copiously and indiscrimi- 
 nately appropriated to their present appetite, but 
 loaded their persons with provision for the future. 
 The Japanese have a practice of carrying away with 
 them portions of the feast where they have been 
 guests, and whenever the Americans were entertained 
 by them, they were expected to do likewise. Each 
 Japanese carries in a pocket within the breast of his 
 robe, a supply of paper for the various purposes of a 
 pocket handkerchief — for lie has no other — of taking 
 notes, and of wrapping up the remnants of a feast. 
 To the dinner succeeded an Ethiopian entertainment, 
 got up by the sailors, and negro minstrelsy proved its 
 catholicity of interest by being received by the Ja- 
 panese Avith the same " unbounded applause " as in 
 Broadway. 
 
 A few days subsequently the Commodore and his 
 officers were invited to a return feast by the Japanese 
 Commissioners. The banquet was spread in the 
 Treaty House, in the principal hall of which were ar- 
 ranged narrow benches covered with red crape. The 
 tables were the same as the benches, and were raised 
 to a convenient height for eating by a square lac- 
 quered stand placed before each guest. The guests 
 
244 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 having taken their seats, in accordance with tlieir 
 rank, the Commodore and his suite being con- 
 ducted to the dais where the Commissioners presided 
 as hosts, and the other Americans being arranged 
 along the tables in the lower apartment, the feast, 
 after some preliminary compliments, began, A num- 
 per of servitors at once thronged in, bearing upon 
 lacquered trays several earthen cups. These con- 
 tained a thick soup, which was accompanied by a 
 supply of soy, or some other condiment. Soup suc- 
 ceeded soup, and soup followed soup again, which 
 seemed to be the staple article of the entertainment. 
 There was but little difference of taste distinguishable 
 by an American palate in these various dishes, and 
 most of them, seemed to have fresh fish as a chief con- 
 stituent, large portions of which floated in the thick 
 liquid. Between the services of soup, various sweet- 
 ened confections and an abundant supply of ginger- 
 bread and other cakes were handed round, while the 
 silver vessels which contained the national drink of 
 sakee — a kind of whisky distilled from rice — ^were 
 kept diligently replenished. The sakee cups are mere 
 thimbles in capacity, like those of Lew-Chew, but 
 the Japanese have acquired by practice such a fa- 
 cility in filling and emptying them, that they evi- 
 dently lose nothing for want of larger goblets. Toasts 
 and healths were passed, and the whole assemblage 
 soon became happy and friendly. 
 
 At the end of the dinner, a dish containing a 
 boiled craw-fish, a piece of fried eel, and a square- 
 shaped, jelly-like pudding was served to each guest, 
 with the explanation that he was to carry those arti- 
 
THE JAPANESE DINNER. 245 
 
 cles with, him, or that they would be sent after him, 
 as in fact was done. The Japanese dinner, however, 
 had left no snch agreeable impressions upon the 
 Americans that they cared to have any memorials to 
 perpetuate its taste or memory. Japanese diet seemed 
 particularly meagre in comparison with American 
 fare, and soup, however desirable in its proper place, 
 was found to be but a poor substitute for a round of 
 beef or a haunch of mutton. The Prince of Tous- 
 Sima, who had the character of being, like Talley- 
 rand, not only an expert diplomatist but a finished 
 gourmand, had brought all the resources of his own 
 kitchen, under the immediate superintendence of his 
 far-famed cook, to bear upon the dinner, and yet the 
 result was by no means satisfactory to a vigorous 
 nautical appetite. 
 
 The Commodore had now been nearly two months 
 in the- Bay of Yedo, most of which time had been 
 spent in negotiations preliminary to the formation of 
 the treaty. Although during this period there was 
 but little opportunity, in consequence of the jealous 
 interposition of the authorities, of having much inti- 
 mate intercourse with the people, there were, not- 
 withstanding, occasional opportunities of observation 
 of their peculiarities. 
 
 After the negotiations had terminated, the Commo- 
 dore insisted upon the privilege being granted to his of- 
 ficers of visiting the neighborhood. This was accorded, 
 but under severe restrictions, limiting the visits of the 
 Americans to within certain fixed limits, and the Ja- 
 panese people were so strictly watched on these occa- 
 sions by tlie police and spies, that they did not dare 
 
246 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 to speak with, and hardly to look at, the strangers. 
 In obtaining water and other supplies, in the convey- 
 ance of the presents back and fro, and putting up the 
 telegraph, and arranging the miniature railroad, the 
 Americans, however, were necessarily brought in con- 
 tact with the natives. The common people always 
 exhibited, on these occasions, a very friendly disposi- 
 tion toward their visitors ; and although they were 
 generally reserved about themselves and their coun- 
 try, as if constrained by fear of their superiors, they 
 exhibited an intense curiosity to know all about the 
 United States. It was difficult to satisfy their exceed- 
 ing inquisitiveness, which seemed to be particularly 
 directed toward the dress, every article of which they 
 were desirous of handling and finding out the English 
 name by which it was called. A button excited the 
 highest interest, and the present of one was esteemed 
 an immense favor. Their curiosity about the woollen 
 clothing and the buttons of the Americans may be 
 accounted for from the fact of the Japanese not having 
 either. 
 
 When visiting the ships, the mandarins and their 
 attendants were never at rest ; but went about peer- 
 ing into every nook and corner, peeping into the muz- 
 zles of the guns, examining curiously the small-arms, 
 handling the ropes, measuring the boats, looking 
 eagerly into the engine-room, and watching every 
 movement of the engineers and workmen as they 
 busily moved in and about the gigantic machinery 
 of the steamers. They were not contented with mere- 
 ly observing with their eyes, but were constantly 
 taking out their writing materials, their mulberry- 
 
JAPANESE SKETCHING. 247 
 
 bark paper, and their India ink and hair pencils, 
 which they always earned in a pocket within the left 
 breast of their loose robes, and making notes and 
 eketches. 
 
 Writing Iniplemcuta. 
 
 The Japanese had all apparently a strong pictorial 
 taste, and looked with great delight upon the engrav- 
 ings and pictures which were shown them, but their 
 own performances appeared exceedingly rude and 
 inartistic. Every man, however, seemed anxious to 
 try his skill at drawing, and they were constantly 
 taking the portraits of the Americans, and sketches 
 of the various articles that appeared curious to them, 
 with a result, which, however satisfactory it might 
 have been to the artists, (and it must be conceded 
 they exhibited no little exultation,) was far from 
 showing any encouraging advance in art. The 
 Japanese are, undoubtedly, like the Chinese, a very 
 imitative, adaptative, and compliant people ; and in 
 these characteristics may be discovered a promise of 
 the comparatively easy introduction of foreign cus- 
 toms and habits, if not of the nobler principles and 
 better life of a higher civilization. 
 
248 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 NotwitliBtanding tlie Japanese are 60 fond of in- 
 dulging their curiosity, they are by no means com- 
 municative about themselves. They allege, as a 
 reason for their provoking reserve, that their laws 
 forbid them to communicate to foreigners anything 
 relating to their country and its institutions, habits, and 
 customs. This silence on the part of the Japanese was 
 a serious obstacle to acquiring that minute informa- 
 tion about a strange people, of whom curiosity is nat- 
 urally on the alert to know everything. Much pro- 
 gress will, however, never be obtained toward a 
 thorough knowledge of Japan, until some of our 
 men of intelligence are established in the country in 
 the character of consular agents, merchants, or mis- 
 sionaries, who may thus be enabled to acquire the 
 language, and mingle in intimate social relations with 
 the people. 
 
 The common people were found much more dis- 
 posed to fraternize than were the Japanese officials. 
 It seemed evident that nothing but a fear of punish- 
 ment deterred the former from entering into free in- 
 tercourse with the Americans ; but they were closely 
 watched by their superiors, as in fact the latter were 
 by their equals. 
 
 In Japan, as in Lew Chew, probably, a closer in- 
 timacy would have ensued, dm-ing the visits of the 
 squadron, with all classes, if they had been allowed 
 to foUow their own natural inclinations, and had not 
 been so jealously guarded by the numerous spies. No 
 one, even of the highest dignitaries, is entrusted with 
 public business of importance, without having one or 
 more associated with him, who is ever on the alert to 
 
AN INTBtTDING CHAPLAIN. 249 
 
 detect and take note of the slightest suspicion of de- 
 linquency. 
 
 Kura-Kawa-Kahei, the prefect, and Yenoske, the 
 interpreter, paid almost daily visits to the ships, and 
 had always something to communicate in regard to 
 supplying the vessels with water and fresh provisions, 
 the arrangements for which were under their especial 
 care. When they came on board, as they were sub- 
 ordinate dignitaries, they were not received by the 
 Commodore himself, but by some of his chief officers, 
 who were delegated for the purpose, and acted as his 
 medium of communication with them. After one of 
 these interviews (March 14), as Kura-Kawa and Ye- 
 noske were about taking leave, a Japanese official 
 hurried aboard from Kanagawa, and, in a state of 
 considerable excitement, reported that an American 
 officer had passed through that town, and was walk- 
 ing very fast toward Yedo. His appearance, so said 
 the messenger, was causing great excitement, and it 
 was feared that unpleasant consequences might ensue. 
 The Japanese officials, on hearing this, declared that 
 the conduct of the American officer was in violation 
 of their laws and of the promises made to them by the 
 Admiral. The Commodore, when informed of the 
 fact, directed guns to be fired immediately, and a sig- 
 nal made recalling all boats and officers to their re- 
 spective ships. He also prepared written orders, 
 which were sent in difflsrent directions, commanding 
 all persons belonging to the squadron to repair imme- 
 diately on board. A copy of these orders was, on 
 the instant, dispatched by the Japanese officials, then 
 in the Powhatan, in pursuit of the American officer, 
 11* 
 
250 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 
 
 reported to be on his way to Yedo. The Commodore's 
 prompt action was handsomely acknowledged by the 
 authorities, who sent him, next day, a formal expres- 
 sion of their gratitude. 
 
 Tlie American officer, whose intrusion had created 
 so great an excitement, was Mr. Bittinger, the chap- 
 lain of the steamer Susquehanna. While taking a 
 walk on shore, this gentleman's curiosity prompted 
 him to extend his observations somewhat beyond the 
 usual circuit of some four or five miles, within which 
 the Japanese authorities had contracted the move- 
 ments of their visitors. 
 
 Starting from Yokuhama, opposite to where the 
 squadron was anchored, the enterprising investigator 
 pushed on to the town of Kanagawa, some three miles 
 further up the bay, where he was accosted by some 
 of the Japanese officials and the interpreter, Grohatsiro, 
 who urgently solicited him to return. He was not, 
 however, to be so easily balked of his purpose, and 
 continued his journey, followed by the Japanese offi- 
 cers, who dogged his steps at every turn until he 
 reached Kamasaki. Here there was a river to cross, 
 and he tried to prevail upon the Japanese boatmen 
 to ferry him to the opposite side, but they refused in 
 spite of bribes and threats, in the coiirse of which the 
 chaplain, if the Japanese accounts are to be believed, 
 drew his sword. He now pursued his way higher up 
 the river with the hope of finding a place that might 
 be forded, and had just reached a very promising look- 
 ing crossing, the depths of which he was about trying 
 when the messenger, who had hurried in rapid dis- 
 patch from the steamer Powhatan, accosted him 
 
A FOECED EXCHANGE. 251 
 
 with the written order of the Commodore. " He," 
 thus reported the Japanese authorities, with their 
 usual minuteness of description, " read it, walked fom- 
 steps further, read it again, then suddenly returned 
 and intimated his intention of going back to the ship." 
 
 The chaplain, in the course of his wanderings, 
 had an opportunity of seeing one of the largest towns 
 of Japan, that of Kanagawa, which, with its numer- 
 ous wide streets, and its crowded population, had 
 quite an imposing appearance. He penetrated into 
 several of the dwellings and temples, and, by his per- 
 tinacious perseverance, succeeded in obtaining, in one 
 of the shops, some Japanese money in exchange for 
 American coin. The native authorities seemed par- 
 ticularly worried in regard to this last matter, as it 
 was so great an offence against their laws. 
 
 The Japanese, in their report of the occurrence, 
 stated that the American officer had gone into a shop 
 by the roadside, and asked the keeper to allow him 
 to see some coins. The Japanese shopman complied 
 with the request, but as he seemed somewhat chary 
 in the display of his treasure, the chaplain insisted 
 upon seeing more, which demand was also granted. 
 Scales were now asked for, which being brought, the 
 chaplain took out some silver pieces, and weighing 
 them in one balance against the Japanese gold and 
 silver coins, mixed indiscriminately in a heap, in the 
 other, transferred the latter to his pockets, and left 
 Iiis American coin to console the shopman for the 
 loss of his Japanese change. The authorities further 
 reported that the chaplain was not content with gen- 
 tle exhortations and mild persuasions, but had used 
 
252 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 threatening gestures, in whicli his drawn sword had 
 figured conspicuously. They, however, mildly and 
 courteously added in their report, "that they sup- 
 posed that it was with no intention to do harm, but- 
 for his own amusement." There was a gentle and 
 graceful charity in the suggestion of an apology for 
 the conduct of the American officer, which showed 
 an example in beautiful accordance with the precepts 
 of the faith of the intruder, and well worthy of imi- 
 tation. On the next day Yenoske brought back the 
 sum of three dollars and a half in American silver 
 coin, which had been left in compulsory exchange 
 with the Japanese shopman, and stated that six pieces 
 of gold, six of silver, and the same number of copper, 
 were in possession of the chaplain. Yenoske request- 
 ed that the Japanese money should be returned, 
 which was done on a subsequent visit. 
 
 The Japanese are naturally social, and freely min- 
 gle in friendly intercourse with each other. "Woman, 
 too, participates in the enjoyments of society with no 
 more restriction than with us. Evening parties are 
 common to both sexes, where, as in the United States, 
 the friendly cup of tea is handed round, and the com- 
 pany is enlivened by the usual gossip and amuse- 
 ments, such as music and card-playing. It is the 
 jealous watchfulness of the government alone which 
 prevents the people from the exercise of their natural 
 companionable disposition in a friendly communion 
 with foreigners. Polygamy does not prevail in Japan 
 as in other Oriental countries, and the natural effect 
 is a high appreciation of the female sex, and a rever- 
 ence for the domestic virtues. 
 
A WALK m JAPAN. 
 
 253 
 
 Japanese Musical Instruments. 
 
 Little was seen of the women ; but the Commo- 
 dore had an opportunity on one occasion of making 
 the acquaintance of a circle of Japanese ladies. 
 After having been entertained at the Treaty House 
 with the usual refreshments, the party (consisting of 
 several American officers in company with the Com- 
 modore), set out on a walk, attended by Moryama 
 Yenoske, the chief interpreter, and several of the Ja- 
 panese officials. 
 
 A circuit embracing some five miles was the ex- 
 tent of the field of observation, but this gave an 
 opportunity of seeing a good deal of the country, sev- 
 eral of the villages, and large numbers of the people. 
 The early spring, in that temperate latitude, had now 
 much advanced, and the weather, though never very 
 severe, had become more warm and genial. The 
 fields and terraced gardens were carpeted with a 
 
254 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 fresh and tender verdure, and the trees, with the full 
 growth of renewed vegetation, spread their shade of 
 abounding green foliage in the valleys and on the 
 hillsides of the surrounding country. The camelias, 
 with the immense growth of forty feet in height, 
 which abound every where on the shores of the Bay 
 of Yedo, were in full bloom with their magnificent 
 red and white blossoms, which displayed a purity and 
 richness of color, and a perfection of development 
 unrivalled elsewhere. 
 
 As soon as a village or hamlet was approached, 
 one of the Japanese attendants would hurry in ad- 
 vance, and order the women and the rabble to keep 
 out of the way. The Commodore spoke to the inter- 
 preter, and took him to account, particularly for dis- 
 persing the women. Yenoske pretended that it was 
 entirely for the benefit of the ladies themselves, as 
 their modesty was such that they could not withstand 
 the sight of a stranger. The Commodore did not be- 
 lieve a word of this, and plainly told Yenoske so. 
 The imputation, though it expressed a doubt of his 
 truthfulness, did not off"end the interpreter, but was 
 rather taken as a compliment to his duplicity, which 
 is one of the most cherished accomplishments of a 
 Japanese official. Yenoske promised that at the next 
 town, where some refreshments had been ordered, 
 the women should not be required to avoid the party. 
 Accordingly, on entering this place, every man, wo- 
 man, and child crowded out to see the strangers. 
 
 The Commodore and his officers were conducted 
 to the house of the mayor or' chief magistrate of the 
 town. This dignitary, with great cordiality, met and 
 
BLACK TEETH OF WOMEN. 255 
 
 welcomed them to the hospitalities of his establish- 
 ment. The interior was quite unpretending, consist- 
 ing of a large room, spread with soft mats, lighted 
 with oiled paper windows, hung with rudely-executed 
 cartoons, and furnished with the usual red-colored 
 benches. The wife and sister of the town official 
 were present, crouched on their knees in one corner 
 of the apartment, and smiled a timid welcome to the 
 visitors. These women were barefooted and bare- 
 legged, and were dressed very nearly alike, in dark- 
 eolored robes, with much of the undress look of night- 
 gowns, secured by a broad band passing round the 
 waist. Their figures were fat and dumpy, or, at any 
 rate, appeared so in their ungraceful drapery ; but 
 their faces were not wanting in expression, for which 
 they were very much indebted to- their eyes, which 
 were black as well as their hair, that was fastened up 
 at the top of the head like that of the men, although 
 not shaved in front. As their " ruby " lips parted in 
 smiling graciously, they displayed a row of black 
 teeth, set in horribly corroded gums. 
 
 The married women of Japan enjoy the exclusive 
 privilege of dyeing their teeth, which is done with 
 a mixture of urine, filings of iron, and sakee, termed 
 ohaguT or camri. This compound, as might be natur- 
 ally inferred from its composition, is neither pleasantly 
 perfumed nor very wholesome. It is so corrosive 
 that, on applying it to the teeth, it is necessary to pro- 
 tect the more delicate structure of the gums and lips, 
 for the mere touch of the odious stuff to the flesh 
 burns it at once into a purple, gangrenous spot. In 
 spite of the utmost care the gums become tainted, 
 
256 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 and lose their ruddy color and vitality. "We should 
 think that the practice was hardly conducive to con- 
 nubial felicity, and it would be naturally inferred that 
 all the kissing must be expended in the ecstasy of 
 courtship. This compensation, however, is occasion- 
 ally lost to the prospective bridegroom, for it is not 
 uncommon for some of the young ladies to inaugurate 
 the habit of blacking the teeth upon the popping 
 of the question. The effects of this disgusting habit 
 are more apparent from another practice, which 
 prevails with the Japanese as well as with cme 
 would-be civilized dames — that of painting the lips 
 with rouge. The ruddy glow of the mouth brings 
 out in greater contrast the blackness of the gums 
 and teeth. 
 
 The worthy mayor had some refreshment prepared 
 for his guests, consisting of tea, cakes, confectionery, 
 and the never-absent sakee. With the latter was 
 served a kind of hot waffle, made apparently of rice- 
 flour. The civic dignitary himself was very active 
 in dispensing these offerings, and he was ably seconded 
 by his wife and sister, who always remained on their 
 knees in presence of the strangers. This awkward 
 position of the women did not seem to interfere with 
 their activity, for they kept moving about very briskly 
 with the silver sakee-kettle, the services of which, in 
 consequence of the smallness of the cups, being in 
 constant requisition. 
 
 The two ladies were unceasingly courteous, and 
 kept bowing their heads, like a bobbing toy mandarin. 
 The smiles with which they perseveringly greeted 
 their guests might have been better dispensed with, 
 
THE PEOPLE OF THE COTJNTKT. 257 
 
 as every movement of their lips exposed their horrid 
 black teeth and decayed- gums. The mayoress was 
 ■uncommonly polite, and was good natured enough to 
 bring in her baby, which her guests felt bound to 
 make the most of, though its dirty face and general 
 untidy appearance anade it quite a painful effort to 
 bestow the necessary caresses. A bit of confectionery 
 was presented to the infant, when it was directed to 
 bow its shaven head, which it did with a degree of 
 precocious politeness that called forth the greatest 
 apparent pride and admiration on the part of its 
 mother and all the ladies present. 
 
 On preparing to depart, the Commodore proposed 
 the health, in a cup of sakee, of the whole household, 
 which brought into the room from a neighboring apart- 
 ment, the mayor's mother. She was an ancient dame, 
 and as soon as she came in she squatted herself in one 
 comer, and bowed her thanks for the compliments 
 paid to the family, of which she was the oldest 
 member. 
 
 As the officials no longer interfered with the Ja- 
 panese, there was a good opportunity of observing 
 them, though hurriedly, as the Commodore and his 
 party were forced to return early to the ships. Every 
 where a scene of busy activity met the eye, in the 
 towns, the villages, the fields, and the farm-yards. 
 Some laborers, up to their knees in water, were hoeing 
 the lands, artificially overfiowed for the culture of the 
 rice ; some were pounding the grain into flour with 
 their heavy mallets ; and others were busy lading 
 their pack-horses with baskets and bags of meal for 
 the market. The only idlers were the mothers, and 
 
258 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 the babes they bore in their arms or carried upon their 
 backs. The inferior people, almost without exception, 
 seemed thriving and contented, though hard at work. 
 There were signs of poverty, but no evidence of pub- 
 lic beggary. 
 
 The women, in common with many in various 
 parts of over-populated Europe, were frequently seen 
 engaged in field-labor, showing the general industry 
 and the necessity of keeping every hand busy in the 
 populous empire. The lowest classes even were com- 
 fortably clad, being dressed in coarse cotton garments 
 of the same form, though shorter, than those of their 
 superiors, being a loose robe just covering the hips. 
 They were, for the most part, bareheaded and bare- 
 footed — the women being dressed very much like the 
 men, although their heads were not shaved like those 
 of the males, and their long hair was drawn up and 
 
AMERICAN BUEIAL. 
 
 259 
 
 fastened upon the top in a knot or under a pad. In 
 rainy weather the Japanese wear a covering made 
 of straw, which being fastened together at the top, is 
 suspended from the neck, and falls over the shoulders 
 and person like a thatched roof. Some of the higher 
 classes cover their robes with an oil-paper cloak, which 
 is impermeable to the wet. The umbrella, like that 
 of the Chinese, is almost a constant companion, and 
 serves both to shade from the rays of the sun and keep 
 off the effects of a shower 
 
 One of the marines who had been long ill having 
 died, the privilege of burying him on shore was de- 
 manded, which, after some demur on the pai-t of the 
 Japanese, was finally granted. Accordingly, as had 
 been arranged, a Japanese official went on board the 
 Mississippi, to accompany the funeral party, for the 
 purpose of pointing out the burial-place selected for 
 the interment. 
 
260 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 The boats left the ship with the body, attended by 
 the chaplain, Mr. Jones, Mr. Williams, the interpreter, 
 and a party of marines. The flags of every vessel in 
 the squadron were hoisted at half mast as they pushed 
 off. The body was borne to a very picturesque spot 
 at the foot of a hill, at a short distance from the vil- 
 lage of Yoku-hama. The chaplain, Mr. Jones, was 
 robed in his clerical gown, and on landing he was re- 
 ceived in the most courteous manner by some of the 
 Japanese authorities, who showed none of their sup- 
 posed repugnance to the Christian religion and its 
 ministers. Crowds of the people had also gathered, 
 and looked on with great curiosity, but with decorous 
 respect, as the funeral procession moved slowly along to 
 the sound of the muflJed drum. The road lay through 
 the village, and its inhabitants came out from their 
 houses and open shops to behold the novel scene. 
 
 The place chosen for the burial was near a Japa- 
 nese place of interment, with stone idols and sculptured 
 headstones, and as the procession came up a Buddhist 
 priest, in robes of richly embroidered silk, was ob- 
 served already on the ground. Mr. Jones read the 
 service of the Protestant Episcopal church, and while 
 he was officiating the Buddhist priest sat near by on 
 a mat, with an altar before him, on which was a col- 
 lection of scraps of paper, some rice, a gong, a vessel 
 containing sakee, and burning incense. The ser- 
 vice having been read, the body lowered, and the 
 earth thrown in, the party retired from the grave. The 
 Buddhist priest then commenced the peculiar ceremo- 
 nies of his religion, beating his gong, teUing his rosary 
 of glass and wooden beads, muttering his prayers, 
 
A SIGHT OF TEDO. 
 
 261 
 
 and keeping aliye the burning incense. He was 
 still going through his strange formulary when the 
 Americans moved away, and crowds of Japanese con- 
 tinued to linger in the neighborhood, about the crests 
 and acclivities ot the hills which bounded the scene. 
 Mr. Williams, the interpreter, who had lived long ia 
 China, and was familiar with the Buddhist worship, 
 recognized its peculiarities in the precisely similar 
 ceremonies performed at the grave by the Japanese 
 
 Japanese Grave-yard at Tokahamo. — Grave of Marine on the right. 
 
 priest. A neat enclosure of bamboo was subsequently 
 put up about the American grave by the authorities, 
 and a smaU hut was erected near, for a Japa- 
 nese guard to watch for a time, according to their 
 custom. 
 
 The Commodore liad resolved to obtain a glance 
 at the far-famed capital of Yedo, and accordingly 
 moved his squadron so near to that city that, had it 
 not been for one of those fogs so frequent in Japan, 
 
262 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 he would have obtained a distinct view. Enough, 
 however, was seen to confirm the reports of the im- 
 mense size of the capital, the houses and buildings of 
 which were observed to cover many miles of land. 
 These, however, seemed to be merely peaked-roofed, 
 impainted wooden houses, such as are found every 
 where in the villages and towns thronging both sides 
 of the bay. The country in the neighborhood was 
 highly cultivated with gardens and terraced fields, 
 and the projecting spurs of land, which are character- 
 istic features of the scenery, were crowned with for- 
 tifications. Palisades, stretched for a long distance, 
 were found protecting the approach to the harbor, 
 but were supposed to be temporary structures put up 
 to defend the city from the possible attack of the 
 Americans. The Commodore's naval eye soon dis- 
 covered that the capital, with all its parade of forts 
 and palisades, could be readily made to yield to a few 
 steamers of a light draught of water and a heavy 
 armament ; but as he was in the most friendly dispo- 
 sition, after the concession of the treaty, toward the 
 Japanese, he was not inclined to test their weakness 
 or to display his own power. The Japanese authori- 
 ties were, however, in great trepidation, and earnestly 
 protested against the Commodore's sail up the bay, 
 and were much reheved when he considerately turned 
 round to his old anchorage without mooring in the 
 face of the capital. 
 
 The Commodore having dispatched all his business 
 in the upper part of the Bay of Yedo, took his depar- 
 ture with the two steamers, the Mississippi and Pow- 
 hatan. The steamer Susquehanna had been sent to 
 
COMMODOEE SAILS FOE YKDO. 
 
 263 
 
 Cliina, the Saratoga to the Sandwich Islands, en route 
 to the United States, with Captain Adams, bearing to 
 Washington the new treaty, the Macedonian to the 
 Bonin Islands, and the other ships to Simoda, where 
 Commodore Perry followed them with his steamers on 
 the 18th of April, 1854:, and arrived in that port on 
 the afternoon of the same day. 
 
 Among the more important concessions of the 
 ti'eaty, was the opening of the two ports of Simoda 
 and Hakodadi to American vessels, and the Commo- 
 dore was accordingly desirous of visiting these places, 
 and making a thorough investigation of their facilities 
 for the purposes intended. Moreover, certain details 
 for the regulation of American intercourse, subordi' 
 nate to the treaty, were yet to be agreed upon ; and 
 it was arranged that the Commissioners should meet 
 the Commodore, for the purpose, at Simoda, after 
 he bad paid a preliminary visit to that place and Ha- 
 kodadi. 
 
 
 tt.ROBBBTS.SC. 
 
CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 SiMODA is on the island of Nippon, and is situated 
 on the soutliern end of the promontory of Idzu, near 
 the mouth of the lower bay of Yedo. The town lies 
 low — whence its name of Simoda, the Japanese word 
 for low field — on a plain where the valley, that ex- 
 tends back between the hills, opens to the bay. The 
 surrounding country presents the 4isual aspect of the 
 scenery of the Gulf of Yedo, where alternate hills and 
 valleys, richly cultivated, with terraced fields and 
 gardens, succeed each other, bounded in the distance 
 by a range of mountains, the loftiest summits of which 
 were, in the month of April, covered with snow. A 
 number of conical rocks and islands, here and there 
 darkly shaded with groves of pine, project above the 
 surface of the water of the harbor, and show the char- 
 acteristic marks of volcanic agency. 
 
 The town itself looks paltry enough, with the 
 usual small, unpainted houses, but the eye is compen- 
 sated by the richness and beauty of the surrounding 
 landscape. The fleet of junks and other Japanese 
 craft gathered about the mouth of the river Inodzu- 
 Gawa, which fliows through the town and empties 
 
TOWN OF SIirODA. 265 
 
 into the harbor, give some appearance of commercial 
 activity to the place. A small trade, in fact, is car- 
 ried on between Simoda and the interior, by means 
 of this stream, which waters a valley populous with 
 villages and rich with highly cultivated farms. 
 
 Simoda is said to be the largest town in the prin- 
 cipality of Idzu, and was at one time a mart of con- 
 siderable importance. It was founded centuries ago, 
 and was at one time the port of entry for vessels 
 bound to the capital ; but Uragaj further up the bay, 
 having succeeded to this important function, Simoda 
 has declined, and become comparatively a poverty- 
 stricken place. 
 
 The town of Simoda is compactly built, and regu- 
 larly laid out. The streets intersect each other at 
 right angles, and most of them are guarded by light 
 wooden gates, with the names of the streets marked 
 upon their hollow posts, within which are the stations 
 of the watchmen. Through the town a small stream 
 passes, the sides of which are walled with stone, and 
 across it are thrown four small wooden bridges, which 
 connect the opposite banks. The streets are about 
 twenty feet in width, and are partly macadamized 
 and partly paved. Simoda shows an advanced state 
 of civilization, much beyond our own boasted pro- 
 gress, in the attention of its constructors to the clean- 
 liness and healthfulness of the place. There are not 
 only gutters, but sewers, which drain the refuse water 
 and filth directly into the sea or the small stream 
 which divides the town. 
 
 The shops and dwelling houses are but slightly 
 built, many of them being merely thatched huts. A 
 12 
 
206 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 few of the houses of the better classes are of stone, 
 but most are constructed of a framework of bamboo or 
 laths, and then covered with a tenacious mud. This 
 latter, when dry, is again covered with a coat of plas- 
 ter which is either painted or becomes black by ex- 
 posure. Mouldings are afterwards arranged in diag- 
 onal lines over the surface of tlie building, and these 
 being painted white, and contrasting with the dark 
 ground behind, give the houses a curious pie-bald 
 look. The roofs are often of tiles colored alternately 
 black and white, and their eaves extend low down in 
 front of the walls, and protect the inmates from the 
 sun, and the oiled paper windows from the effects of 
 the rain. On the tops of some of the houses wires are 
 stretched in various directions, to keep off the crows, 
 it is said ; but whether on account of their being 
 birds of ill omen, or only in consequence of their bad 
 habits, was not very apparent. These houses have 
 no chimneys, and there being occasional fires for 
 cooking and other purposes, the smoke is left to force 
 its way through the various crannies and cracks which 
 may chance to exist, unless, as is sometimes the case, 
 there are certain holes in the upper part of the walls, 
 prudently left for the purpose. The buildings are 
 generally but a single story in height, though many 
 of the houses and shops have attics for the storage of 
 goods and refuse articles. 
 
 Some of the residences stand back from the 
 front of the streets, with yards before them, al- 
 though generally the latter are in the rear; and 
 are variously appropriated, some for kitchen gar- 
 dens, and others for pleasure-grounds, with flower- 
 
SHOPS AND HOUSES. 26T 
 
 ing shrubs, pouds for gold-fish, and other ornamental 
 appliances. There are a few buildings fronted 
 with stone, while the main structure is of dried mud 
 or adobe, which are used for the storage of valuable 
 goods, as they are supposed to be better protected 
 against fire. The fronts of the shops and houses have 
 movable shutters, which at night are fastened to the 
 posts which support the projecting roofs. Behind 
 these are sliding panels of oiled paper, which are 
 closed when privacy is sought, and opened for the 
 purpose of seeing from the houses what may be passing, 
 or displaying the goods in the inside of the shops. 
 In lieu of the paper windows there are occasional lat- 
 tices of bamboo. The title of the shop is displayed 
 over the door or window, generally in some fanciful 
 device, significant of the kind of business carried on. 
 There are but few signs distinctly recording the trade 
 or occupation, although there was one shop which 
 bore on its front, in the Dutch language, the name in 
 full of a Dutch nostrum, which seemed to be a popu- 
 lar remedy in Japan, for the same was observed in 
 Kanagawa. The finer goods were generally kept se- 
 cluded from view in boxes and drawers, and seemed 
 to be of a kind which indicated no great affluence on 
 the part of the community. 
 
 The internal ai-rangement of the houses and shops 
 of Simoda is simple and uniform, though somewhat 
 modified according to the position and business of the 
 inmates. The door is on the right or left side, and is 
 protected by the overhanging roof, under which the 
 coarser goods are sheltered, and the customers when 
 driving a bargain. From the front door a pathway 
 
268 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 leads directly to the rear, where there are various 
 dwellings and outhouses, among which there is often 
 the shrine for private worship. In the shops this 
 passage way is crowded with baskets, stands, and 
 trays, laden with various merchandise ; and the walls 
 on either side are provided with shelves, upon which 
 goods are also heaped. In the best establishments, 
 articles for sale are seldom displayed beyond turning 
 the open ends of the boxes which contain them to- 
 wards the street. 
 
 In the interior of the houses there is a large frame- 
 work, raised two feet above the ground. It is spread 
 with stuffed mats, and is divided into several compart- 
 ments by means of sliding panels. This house within 
 a house may be applied to all the various purposes of 
 trading, eating, sleeping, and receiving company, ac- 
 cording to the pleasure or necessities of the proprie- 
 tors. This cage or platform is used as the workshop 
 by some of the various handicraftsmen, as, for exam- 
 ple, the carpenters and lacquer varnishers ; the black- 
 smiths and stone-cutters, however, perform their 
 heavier work upon the ground. 
 
 The houses intended for lodgers are generally 
 clean, and neatly spread with the usual soft and thick 
 mats, which serve the double purpose of seats by day 
 and beds by night. The names of the guests are re- 
 corded as with us, but somewhat more publicly, as 
 they are affixed to the door-posts on the street. The 
 aristocratic gentry have their coats of arms emblazon- 
 ed in full and displayed upon wide banners, stretched 
 in front of their stopping places. The interiors of 
 these hotels are by no means very magnificent in ap- 
 
INHABITANTS. 269 
 
 pearance or complete in appointment. The entire 
 absence of tables, cbairs, sofas, lamps, and otber es- 
 sentials to comfort, interfere verj seriously with a 
 guest taking his ease at his Japanese inn. Moreover, 
 tlie want of pictures, looking-glasses,, and other pleas- 
 ing appeals to the eye, gives to the establishment a 
 very naked, cold look to a traveller who has a vivid 
 recollection of the warm snugness of an English inn, 
 or the luxurious completeness of an American hotel. 
 
 The whole number of houses in Simoda is esti- 
 mated at about a thousand, and the inhabitants are 
 supposed to amount to nearly seven thousand, one- 
 fifth of whom are shopkeepers and artisans. There 
 are in the town, as elsewhere in Japan, a dispropor- 
 tionate amount of officials, soldiers, and retainers, of 
 the various princes and dignitaries, who add nothing 
 to the productive resources of the country, but are 
 great consumers of the results of the labor of the 
 lower classes, who are forced to do much work and 
 are allowed to enjoy but little of the profit. Tlie peo- 
 ple have, notwithstanding, a tolerably thriving ap- 
 pearance, and it is seldom that a beggar is seen. 
 The streets, with the exception of a few shops, which 
 do but little business, show no signs of trading activi- 
 ty. There is no public market-place, and all the daily 
 transactions of buying and selling are conducted so 
 privately and quietly, that, to a passing stranger, 
 Simoda would appear as a place singularly devoid of 
 any regard to the concerns of this world. 
 
 The people have all the characteristic courtesy and 
 reserved but pleasing manners of the Japanese. A 
 scene at one of the public baths, where the sexes min- 
 
270 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 gled indiscriminately, unconscious of their nudity, 
 "was not calculated to impress the Americans with a 
 very favorable opinion of the morals of the inhabi- 
 tants. This may not be a universal practice through- 
 out Japan ; but the Japanese people of the inferior 
 ranks are, undoubtedly, notwithstanding their moral 
 superiority to most oriental nations, a lewd people. 
 Apart from the bathing scenes, there was enough in 
 the popular literature, with its obscene pictorial illus- 
 trations, to prove a licentiousness of taste and practice 
 among a certain class of the population, that was not 
 only disgustingly intrusive, but disgracefully indic- 
 ative of foul corruption. 
 
 The chief diet of the inhabitants of Simoda con- 
 sists of fish and vegetable food. There are poultry, 
 chickens, geese and ducks, and some few cattle, but 
 the latter are used only for beasts of burden, and their 
 flesh is never eaten. Kice, wheat, barley, and sweet 
 potatoes are the chief articles raised in and about 
 Simoda, although Irish potatoes, buckwheat, Indian 
 corn, taro, beans, cabbages, cresses, and egg plants 
 are produced to some extent. The wheat and barley 
 are reaped in May, and the rice, which is first sown 
 and then transplanted, as in Lew Chew, is ready for 
 the latter operation in the middle of June, and these 
 crops succeed each other year after year. During 
 the winter, part of the rice-fields, that which lies low, 
 is left fallow, while the terraces are turned into wheat 
 fields. In preparing the fields for the reception of the 
 young shoots of rice, they are overflowed with water, 
 and then reduced by ploughing and harrowing into a 
 soft weU mixed mud. Subsequently, a substratum of 
 
TEMPLES OF SIMODA. 271 
 
 grass and small bushes is trodden down below the 
 surface by the feet. The laborer, putting on a couple 
 of broad pieces of wood, like a pair of snow shoes, 
 goes tramping over the grass and bushes, laboring 
 until they all disappear below the surface of the mud. 
 This operation over, the small plants are transferred 
 fl'om the plot where they have been sown to the fields, 
 where they are allowed to remain until maturity. The 
 rice crop is ready for harvesting in the latter part of 
 September or early in the ensuing month. Oxen and 
 horses are occasionally used in agricultural operations, 
 but the labor is mostly performed by hand. 
 
 Whatever may be the moral character of the in- 
 habitants of Simoda, it might be supposed, from the 
 great number of places of worship, that they are a 
 highly devotional people. 
 
 There are no less than nine Buddliist temples, one 
 large Mia, or Sintoo temple, and a great number of 
 smaller shrines. Those devoted to the worship of 
 Buddha have strange fanciful titles : the largest is 
 called Eio-shen-zhi, or Buddha's obedient monastery ; 
 and there are the Dai-an-zhi, or great peace monastery ; 
 the Hon-gaku-zhi, or source of knowledge monastery ; 
 the Too-den-zhi, or rice field monastery ; the Fuku- 
 zhen-zhi, or fountain of happiness monastery; the 
 Chio-raku-zhi, or continual joy monastery ; the Ri- 
 gen-zhi, or source of reason monastery ; and lastly, 
 the Chio-me-zhi, or long life monastery. Twenty-five 
 priests and a few acolytes are attached to these tem- 
 ples, and are supported by fees bestowed by devotees 
 for burial services, and the various oflaces peculiar to 
 Buddhism. The buildings are of wood, and although 
 
272 EXPJ5DITI0N TO JAPAN. 
 
 generally kept in tolerable repair, show the effects of 
 weather upon the nnpainted surface. The roofs, are 
 tiled, and project, as in the houses, beyond the walls. 
 The posts which support the superstructure are, to- 
 gether with the rest of the wood work, covered with 
 the famous Japanese lacquer. The floors, which are 
 raised four or five feet above the gi-ound, are neatly 
 covered with matting. At the door of the main apart- 
 ment there is a drum on the left and a bell on the 
 right, the former of which is beaten, and the latter 
 tingled, at the commencement of worship, to awaken 
 the attention of the idols to the prayers of the devout. 
 Between the door and the central shrine there are 
 several low lecterns, or reading desks, near each of 
 which there is conveniently placed a piece of wood 
 carved in the shape of a fish, which is used to beat 
 time during the chanting, which forms an important 
 part of the religious services. 
 
 The shrine, in which are arranged the ancestral 
 tablets, in niches, seems to be an object of particular 
 attention, for it was kept always in perfect order, and 
 the monuments and idols were not allowed to suffer 
 from want of repair or of a decent regard to cleanli- 
 ness. The sculpture of the various images was no 
 better in art or more imposing in appearance than the 
 ordinary figures of Joss in the Chinese temples. An 
 occasional picture is hung up as a votive offering 
 upon the walls, representing, rather rudely, some 
 event in the life of the worshipper, in the course of 
 which he had reason, as he piously believed, to be 
 grateful for the services of Buddha or some of his 
 numerous progeny of subordinate deities. Certain 
 
HUNGRY DEMONS. 
 
 273 
 
 boxes, distributed about the temple, remind the Chris- 
 tian visitor of the duties of charity, and he thinks with 
 a pious recollection of the claims of the poor, which 
 are suggested bj a practice similar to that in the old 
 churches of his own faith. His charitable feelings, 
 however, are suddenly repelled when he learns the 
 
 object of the boxes, for the label upon them reads : 
 " For feeding hungry demons," and the promise which 
 follows that, " his merit will be consolidated," is hard- 
 ly inducement enough to contribute towards the ne- 
 cessities of the devil, or any of his voracious legion, 
 unless he is as tender-hearted as Uncle Toby, who had 
 a good word and no doubt an obolus for even the 
 devil himself. In front of some of the temples pillars 
 are found, upon which are inscribed an edict forbid- 
 12* 
 
274 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ding any liquors or meats to be carried witliin the 
 sacred precincts. 
 
 Connected with each monastery is a grave-yard, 
 in which there is a great variety of monuments and 
 tombstones. These are generally made of a green- 
 stone found in the neighborhood of Simoda, and have 
 the various forms of simple slabs, raised tombs, and 
 obelisks. Among the monuments are distributed 
 statues of Buddha, varying in size from the largeness 
 of life to that of only a foot or less. They are repre- 
 sented in various attitudes, some erect and others in 
 a sitting posture, while many are carved in relief upon 
 slabs of stone, where Buddha is seen issuing from an 
 opening shell, and is figured sometimes with his hands 
 clasped, or holding a lotus flower, a fly-trap, or some 
 other symbol. A pleasant feature in the aspect of 
 the otherwise gloomy burial places, disfigured by the 
 coarse and grotesque art of a corrupt superstition, is 
 the abundance of flowers which are plentifully dis- 
 tributed about. These are placed, freshly culled, 
 from day to day, in cups and troughs of water, which 
 are deposited before the tombs and the idols. Offer- 
 ings of other kinds are also frequently found near the 
 various statues of Buddha and his kindred deities. 
 
 The tombs and monuments, as with us, are in- 
 scribed with epitaphs ; but such is the moisture of 
 the climate, that they are soon covered with moss 
 and rendered illegible. Some of the fresher ones, 
 however, could be deciphered, and it was observed 
 that, as in our own practice, the rank, merits, and 
 date of death of deceased, were usually recorded. 
 That the good deeds of the departed may live after 
 
TOMBS AJSro EPITAPHS. 2Y5 
 
 them, there is often a summary of their meritorious 
 works during life, among which we read that some 
 have recited one thousand, two thousand, and even 
 three thousand volumes of the canonical books, an 
 amount of pious performance which entitles them, 
 says the eulogistic Japanese epitaphs, to heavenly 
 felicity. An invocation, " Oh, wonderful Buddha ! " 
 generally prefaces the inscriptions. In the grave- 
 yard of the Eio-shen-zhi, there is a sort of pantomimic 
 record of the deceased, where, in a fenced enclosure 
 of bamboo, there is a sepulchre of two personages of 
 rank. Their statues and those of their families and 
 servants are represented as if holding an audience, 
 which indicates the rank of the deceased. 
 
 Near the recent graves and tombs narrow boards 
 or wooden posts are placed, on which extracts from 
 the canonical books are written, exhorting the living 
 to add to their stock of good works by diligently re- 
 peating the pages of those excellent volumes, or vica- 
 riously performing that necessary duty, by getting 
 the priests to do it for them, and not neglecting to 
 pay the customary charges. The canonical books 
 supply many of the other inscriptions with various 
 quotations, aptly chosen to extol the felicity of the 
 departed,or to inculcate the shortness of life and the 
 vanity of this world ; one of the latter, when trans- 
 lated, read thus : 
 
 " What permanency is there to the glory of the world ? 
 It goes from the sight lilce hoar-frost before the sun. 
 If men wish to enter the joys of heavenly light 
 Let them smell a little of the fragrance of Buddha's canons." 
 
 Another was this : " Whoever wishes to have his 
 
276 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 merit reach even to tlie abode of the demons, let him 
 with us, and all living, become perfect in the doc- 
 trine." And again : " The v?ise vrill make our halls 
 illustrious and the monuments endure for long ages." 
 To them all was added a significant hint, that these 
 hopes and aspirations were to be secured in their ob- 
 jects by the prompt payment of the contributions 
 levied on the living. At Yokuhama, in addition to 
 these various Japanese inscriptions, there were boards 
 upon which were written charms in the Thibetan or 
 complicated Chinese characters, the purport of which 
 the writers themselves do not profess to understand, 
 but all appeared to believe they were effectual in ward- 
 ing off malignant demons from disturbing the dead. 
 
 The nine Buddhist temples are all situated in the 
 suburbs, back of the town ; and on the acclivities or 
 summits of the hills, which bound them in the rear, 
 there are shrines and pavilions erected within groves 
 of trees, which are approached by flights of stone 
 steps. In the interior of these pavilions and shrines 
 are rude images, or merely inscriptions, dedicated to 
 the tutelary deities of the spot. Their purpose is to 
 afford facility to those living near, or to the passer 
 by, of appeasing and imploring the good and evil 
 spirits which are supposed to visit the neighborhood. 
 At the door and before the shrines there are always 
 bits of paper, some rags, copper cash, bouquets of 
 flowers, and other articles, which have been placed 
 there as propitiatory offerings by the different dev- 
 otees. 
 
 The Eio-shen-zhi, the largest of the nine Buddhist 
 temples, was set apart by the government authorities 
 
THE EIO-SHEN-ZHI. 277 
 
 for the temporary use of the Commodore during the 
 stay of the squadron. It is situated on the south side 
 of the town, and has quite a picturesque aspect, with 
 a precipitous rock of over a hundred feet on one side, 
 and a burial ground on the other, extending up the ac- 
 clivity of a thickly wooded hill. Connected with the 
 temple is a kitchen garden, which supplies the priests 
 with vegetables, and pleasure-grounds with beds of 
 flowers, tanks containing gold-fish, and various plants 
 and trees. A small bridge, neatly constructed, leads 
 from the gardens to a flight of steps, by which the 
 hill in the rear is ascended. Adjoining the ecclesias- 
 tical part of the establishment there is a hall used 
 for lodgers, which is so constructed with sliding doors, 
 that it may be separated into several rooms for the 
 accommodation of many persons, or left as one apart- 
 ment. The ofiicers of the squadron were comfortably 
 provided for here, and with an abundant supply of 
 mats to sleep upon, good wholesome rice and vege- 
 tables to eat, plenty of attendants, and everything 
 clean, there was very little reason for complaint on 
 the score of the material necessities of life. 
 
 Tiie large Mia, or Sintoo temple, is situated in 
 the same part of the town as the Buddhist establish- 
 ments. A wide street, the broadest in Simoda, leads 
 to an avenue of fir and juniper trees, the vista through 
 which is closed by the temple. As the visitor ap- 
 proaches he comes to a bridge which is thrown over 
 an artificial fish-pond, which breaks the continuity of 
 the street, and as he enters the shaded avenue he 
 passes over another miniature bridge beautifully con- 
 structed of finely carved green stone. Two grim 
 
278 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 statues of armed men — whose fierce aspect is height- 
 ened by the covering of moss and lichen which, with 
 their irregular growth, roughen the rude sculpture, 
 and, by their mottled color, give an increased savage- 
 ness to its look — stand one on either side, as guardians 
 of the temple. Several pairs of candelabras in stone are 
 arranged near by, towards the termination of the ave- 
 nue, and on their right is a square belfry of open 
 woodwork resting upon a high foundation of masonry. 
 From the roof swings a beam, which is used to strike 
 the bell which hangs within. To the left is a low 
 shed covering six small stone images of deified heroes, 
 the flowers and coins lying before which indicate the 
 worship of devotees. As the visitor advances he 
 passes under a pavilion built over the pathway, and 
 finds within various offerings; some paintings, coarsely 
 executed, of junks and shipwrecks, a bow or two, and 
 scores of queues, cut off by shipwrecked sailors, and 
 hung up as testimonials of gratitude for the preserva- 
 tion of their lives. 
 
 Leaving the pavilion the visitor reaches a flight 
 of stone steps beyond, which lead to the principal 
 hall, which is elevated some six feet above the gi-ound. 
 Two stone lions, whose small heads and enormous un- 
 gainly bodies show that the artist was equally unac- 
 quainted with the grace of art and the truth of nature, 
 guard the entrance. The porch is sustained by posts 
 which are carved with grotesque representations of 
 tigers' and elephants' heads, and other adornments, 
 showing neither skill of hand nor beauty of design. 
 The temple itself is constructed of wood with a cov- 
 ering of thatch. The interior is not, like the Budd- 
 
TIIE GOD-LIKK HACHIMAN. 279 
 
 hist monasteries, supplied with sliding panels, but 
 contains two compartments — the main hall and an 
 inner shrine, partitioned by a latticed bamboo screen. 
 Within the latter is the image of Hachiman, the deified 
 hero to whom the temple is dedicated. Standing in 
 a niche, on either side, is the figure of an attendant 
 dressed in ancient Japanese official costume, armed 
 with a bow, as if awaiting the orders, as in life, of their 
 superior. Before the god-like Hachiman there is the 
 usual variety of devotional offerings. A large num- 
 ber of paintings, of no great artistic skill, a frame 
 containing the representation of a pagoda constructed 
 of copper cash, a sword, bow and arrows, and a sub- 
 scription list of at least thirty feet in length, hang 
 from the walls of the shrine. This gigantic subscrijD- 
 tion list contains the names and donations of the con- 
 tributors towards the expenses of the temple services. 
 The idol of Hachiman is honored annually with a 
 festival, termed matzouri, which occurs on the fif- 
 teenth day of the eighth month, when the subscribers 
 are expected to pay up the amount of their contribu- 
 tions, for which their names are down upon the enor- 
 mous list. Before the image there is a box provided 
 for the alms of those who are too modest to publish 
 their names, or whose donations are too small to make 
 much of a figure on paper. 
 
 As the Japanese structures are unpainted, the 
 woodwork soon turns brown and decays, requiring 
 frequent repair and removal. There is always a sort 
 of guardian or superintendent living on the premises, 
 whose duty it is to keep in order the temple and 
 grounds, most of which are creditable evidences of 
 
280 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 their care. There are, however, some of these estab- 
 lishments which show either a careless superintendence 
 or a low state of the exchequer, for several show signs 
 of ruin and neglect. 
 
 In addition to the one great Sintoo temple, there 
 are various smaller shrines of the same faith dedicated 
 to certain deified heroes, whose services are called 
 into requisition by those of some particular occupa- 
 tion, or on the occasion of a special emergency. The 
 sites of these humbler places of worship have been 
 picturesquely selected on the acclivities, or the sum- 
 mits of the wooded hills which bound the town of Si- 
 moda landward. The pathways which lead to them 
 are handsomely constructed, often with causeways, 
 bridges of a single Eoman arch, and flight of steps, 
 
THE mariners' TEMPLE. 281 
 
 all of stone, carefully sculptured and substantially built. 
 Yarious gateways, guarded by stone statues of lions, or 
 sometimes merely by pillars, Tipon which, an inscription 
 warns off intruders, divide at intervals the approach, 
 while the sides of the avenues are shaded with fine 
 trees of vigorous growth and abundant foliage. 
 
 Some of the temples are so imbosomed in groves, 
 that they are completely hidden from the sight, until 
 their shaded thresholds are reached unexpectedly by 
 the stranger. One of these was especially noticed for 
 the beauty of its position and the perfection of its 
 structure. It is particularly devoted to a patron 
 saint of the sailors, and was called by the Americans 
 " the mariners' temple," and those engaged in occupa- 
 tions connected with the sea, constantly resort there, to 
 invoke the aid of, or to return thanks to the enshrined 
 deity. Groups of fishermen, with their baskets laden 
 with the successful hauls of the day, gathered within 
 the precincts of the sacred place, and gratefully sym- 
 bolized, according to prescribed form, the gratitude 
 of their hearts. Shipwrecked mariners prostrated 
 themselves before the idol, and fulfilled their vows 
 by the sacrifice of their queues, and other exercises 
 of self-imposed penance, which they had pledged for 
 their lives in the agony of impending danger. With- 
 in the shade of the grove boatmen and fishermen were 
 busy repairing their nets, and surrounded with their 
 long oars, their baskets, and all the paraphernalia of 
 their business, seemed to be invoking a blessing upon 
 their labors, and propitiating the deity for good luck 
 to the next day's fishing. 
 
 The mariners' temple is one of the handsomest 
 
282 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 structures in Simoda. A solid stone causeway, pass- 
 ing over an arched bridge, with a low, well construct- 
 ed wall on either side, leads to the steps of the build- 
 ing. The temple is built in the usual style, with a 
 projecting roof of tiles ornamentally arranged in cor- 
 nices of flowers and graceful scrolls, and supported 
 by lacquered pillars. Over the doorway there is a 
 fine specimen of carved woodwork, representing the 
 sacred crane, on the wing, symbolizing as it were the 
 unsettled life of the mariner. The body of the build- 
 ing is closed partly with wall and partly with oiled 
 paper casements. The usual stone lantern is found 
 on the left, and from the door hangs a straw rope, 
 which, being connected with a bell inside, is pulled 
 by the devotee to ring up the deity, that he may be 
 aware of the call, and be wide awake to the spiritual 
 necessities of his visitor. 
 
 The expense of these numerous religious establish- 
 ments must be very great, and the tax upon the peo- 
 ple of Simoda proportionately burdensome, but it 
 was impossible to obtain any very exact data in re- 
 gard to the amount. As the voluntary system pre- 
 vails to a great extent, and ecclesiastical prosperity 
 depends chiefly upon the generosity of the pious, the 
 priests are very naturally stimulated into a very 
 vigorous exercise of their functions, and are undoubt- 
 edly indefatigable laborers in their peculiar field. 
 
 The country about Simoda is beautifully varied 
 with hill and dale. There are the usual signs of 
 elaborate Japanese culture, although from the more 
 sparse population of the neighborhood there is more 
 land left in a comparatively barren condition than 
 
NEIGHBORHOOD OF SIMODA. 283 
 
 further up the bay towards the capital. The bottoms 
 and sides of the vallevs are covered with wardens and 
 fields, which are well watered by the streamlets which 
 flow through every valley, and which, by artificial 
 arrangement, are diverted from their course, and pour 
 their fertilizing waters over the land from terrace to ter- 
 race. There are four principal villages near Simoda. 
 Kaki-zalvi, or Persimmon point, lies at the end of the 
 harbor, and contains barely two hundred houses. One 
 of its monasteries, known by the name of Goku-zhen- 
 zhi, was set npart, like the Eio-zhen-zhi, in Simoda, 
 as a place of resort for foreigners ; and within the 
 ground attached is the burial-place appropriated to 
 Americans. There is a good anchorage at Kaki-zaki 
 for junks, and many of them take in their cargoes 
 there rather than at Simoda, 
 
 Passing over the hills in a south-easterly direction, 
 we come to the village of Susaki, which, with its two 
 hundred houses or so, hangs upon the acclivity of a 
 wooded hillside, with its front extending down to the 
 beach and facing the waters of the inlet. Its inhabi- 
 tants are generally fishermen, and their boats, and 
 even larger vessels, can approach the shore at all 
 states of the tide. From Susaki a good road leads in 
 a north-easterly direction to the village of Sotowra, a 
 small hamlet, also situated on the seaside, but with a 
 pleasing landscape inland, varied by cultivated fields 
 and an undergrowth of dwarf oaks. A larger place, 
 the town of Shira-hama, or White Beach, extends its 
 houses along a sandy beach, some three miles distant 
 from Sotowra, and is comparatively a flourishing set- 
 tlement. Several quarries of trachyte, or green-stone, 
 
284 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 are worked in the neighborhood, and large quantities 
 of charcoal are prepared on the forest-crowned hills 
 in the rear. 
 
 Turning westwardly and ascending the hill beyond 
 Shira-hama, the highest summit within five miles of 
 Simoda is reached, from which the whole southern 
 area and breadth of the peninsula of Idzu can be 
 seen at one glance. Barren peaks rise to the view 
 out of thickly wooded hills, whose sides open into 
 valleys, down which the wild vegetation throngs un- 
 til checked by the culture of the fields that surround 
 the busy hamlets at the bottom. Where the beholder 
 stands on the summit of the hill there is a small wooden 
 shrine almost hidden in a grove of pines. The numer- 
 ous pictures, flowers, rags, copper cash and decapi- 
 tated queues found within, attest the popularity of 
 the Zhi-zo-bozats, the deity of the place. 
 
 Descending the hill by its north-western slope, the 
 largest valley of the country round is entered. The 
 river Inodzu-gama, which flows into the harbor of 
 Simoda, passes through this, irrigating the cultivated 
 banks and sustaining the commerce of the various vil- 
 lages and towns in the interior. The hamlet of Hongo, 
 containing about one hundred and fifty houses, is sit- 
 uated on the river, which has been dammed at that 
 spot, and turns five undershot mills for cleaning rice. 
 This operation is performed by a very simple machine, 
 which consists of a projecting piece of wood or stone 
 attached at right angles to the end of a long lever, 
 that plays upon a horizontal axis, and is moved up 
 and down, like a pestle working in a mortar. 
 
 This rude machinery is occasionally worked by 
 
EIVEE KONGO. 
 
 285 
 
 ee'i' 
 
 Japanese Bice Cleaner and Spade. 
 
 water, as at Hongo, but more frequently by a man, 
 who steps alternately off and on the long end of the 
 beam. The river at Hongo is navigable for flat-bot- 
 tomed boats, which frequent the place for charcoal, 
 grain, stone, and other products. The country about 
 is beautifully diversified, and the culture of the land 
 is carried on to an extent that would hardly be be- 
 lieved by one who was not familiar with the populous 
 countries of the east. Every hill is but a succession 
 of terraces, rising one above the other, from the base 
 to the summit, and green with the growth of rice, 
 barley, wheat, and other grain. At the opening of 
 a small valley, which branches off from the main one 
 near Hongo, is a small village, called Rendai-zhi, from 
 the Lotus terrace monastery near by. 
 
 From Hongo the valley widens more and more 
 
286 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 until it reaches Simoda, where it forms an open 
 expanse, like an alluvial plain. Along the base 
 of the range of hills, and up their slopes, in the direc- 
 tion of the harbor, the numerous farm-houses and 
 abounding granaries, many of them of stone, and 
 with substantial walls of the same material, exhibit 
 a cheerful prospect of thrift and comfort. IS^or 
 are there wanting evidences of luxuriant enjoy- 
 ment in the handsome dwelling houses, with their 
 pleasure-grounds adorned with pastures of variegated 
 flowers, artificial ponds of gold-fish, and fancy dwarf 
 shade and fruit trees. West of Simoda the villages 
 are smaller, and the hills which flank them of less 
 height. In that direction there are no villages of a 
 shorter distance than five miles from the town of Si- 
 moda. ISTear two seaside settlements, towards the 
 south-west, the inhabitants have excavated large 
 chambers in the cliffs, some hundred feet from the 
 shore, in which they store the sea-weed, which is a 
 favorite article of food and for chewing, as tobacco 
 is used with us, and whither the fishermen usually re- 
 sort for shelter. The lower hills in every direction 
 are covered with wood, from which large supplies of 
 charcoal are made, which is extensively used for fuel 
 for domestic and manufacturing purposes. 
 
 The topographical characteristics of Simoda are 
 such as to indicate a healthful climate. Its situation 
 on the extremity of a peninsula, looking seaward, and 
 the elevated ground which surrounds the town, secure 
 the fresh breezes of the sea and a freedom from mias- 
 matic influences. Simoda itself lies low, but the soil 
 is dry, and the stream which passes through it flows 
 
CLIMATE AND HEALTH OF SIMODA. 287 
 
 rapidly and with a clear current of pure water. It 
 cannot be very cold, as Simoda is at the level of the 
 sea, by the equable temperature of which the winter 
 season is necessarily tempered. The hills under 
 which the town snugly reposes, protect it from the 
 full severity of the blasts from the snowy summits of 
 the distant mountains. The climate is more or less 
 variable in the winter and spring. The presence of 
 snow upon the lofty peaks, although there is seldom 
 frost or snow at Simoda itself, and the not unfrequent 
 rains with the ever recurring fogs, give an occasional 
 humidity and rareness to the atmosphere, which be- 
 comes chilling to the senses, and must be productive of 
 occasional inflammatory diseases, such as are frequent 
 in the spring and winter with us. The change of the 
 wind alternates often between the warm sea-breezes 
 from the south, and the cold blasts from the snow- 
 capped mountains inland, and produces the usual 
 efi'ects, doubtless, of such variations. In the summer 
 it is occasionally very hot in the day time, but the 
 nights are refreshed by the sea-breezes. From April 
 17th to May 13th, a record of the thermometer gives 
 72° as the highest, and 68° as the lowest point, and 
 of the barometer 29.38 and 30.00. As the season ad- 
 vances the mercury rises, no doubt, much higher, 
 reaching probably 85° of Fahrenheit, or more. Si- 
 moda is liable to the ordinary aiFections of temperate 
 climates, but there seems no reason to suspect that it 
 has a special tendency to any epidemic diseases. 
 
 Since the treaty of Kanagawa, by which the port 
 was opened to intercourse with the Americans, Si- 
 moda has been separated from the jurisdiction of the 
 
288 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 principality of Idzu, and constituted an imperial city, 
 the authorities of which are appointed directly by the 
 government at Yedo. There is a governor or general 
 superintendent of the municipal and commercial 
 affairs of the place, with a fiscal assistant or treasurer, 
 whose particular function has regard to the revenues. 
 Subordinate to these two officials, there are the same 
 number of prefects or hugio, who again have under 
 them various collectors and interpreters, whose busi- 
 ness is the practical administration of affairs in the 
 various departments of government and trade. The 
 limit of the jurisdiction of the imperial ofiicers is 
 marked by six guard stations, neither of which is 
 over a mile and a half from the town, placed on all 
 the principal roads leading to Simoda. Beyond these, 
 the inhabitants of the country are amenable as before 
 to their own local government, while within them all 
 persons are under the newly appointed authorities. 
 
 ::M^ 
 
 ■ii\5»».iijiste« 
 
CHAPTEE XIII. 
 
 PEESUMiPrG upon the privileges secured by tho 
 ti-eaty, the officers, on their arrival at Simoda, began 
 to frequent the shore and stroll freely about the streets 
 of the town and in the neighboring country. The 
 common people, as had been elsewhere observed, 
 seemed very much disposed to welcome the strangers 
 and engage in friendly converse with them. They 
 exhibited their usual curiosity and thronged about the 
 Americans, examining their dress with almost childish 
 eagerness and delight. They fingered the officers' 
 buttons, swords, and gay accoutrements, and pointing 
 to them would ask, in their pantomimic way, the Eng- 
 lish names for each article which struck their fancy. 
 
 It was soon discovered, however, that the Japanese 
 authorities were not disposed to allow of this free inter- 
 mingling of the people with the Americans, and no 
 sooner was it observed than various armed soldiers or 
 policemen came up and dispersed their countrymen. 
 Kot satisfied with the exercise of this severe discipline 
 upon the poor Japanese, the officials seemed determined 
 to practise their authority upon the American officers. 
 13 
 
290 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 It was found that, wherever the latter went they were 
 followed by a squad of soldiers, who watched every 
 movement, and dogged their steps with the perti- 
 nacity of a pack of hounds. The people, under the 
 orders of the local authorities, fled, and the town, 
 with its shops closed and its streets deserted, was as 
 sad as if it had been devastated by the plague. Even 
 in their strolls into the country, the American officers 
 found that they could not divest themselves of the 
 perpetual presence and jealous watchfulness of the 
 Japanese spies, who were evidently resolved to re- 
 strict the freedom of their visitors, and put them under 
 the most rigid surveillance. 
 
 The Commodore, upon being paade aware of this 
 treatment of his officers, felt greatly indignant, as it 
 was in violation of the stipulations of the treaty, and 
 he determined to bring the authorities of Simoda, 
 whom he held responsible, to account. He accord- 
 ingly despatched his flag lieutenant and his two in- 
 terpreters on shore, to call upon the prefect, and lay 
 before him certain complaints which were specified 
 in a memorandum, in which the Commodore expressed 
 his dissatisfaction at the manner in which his officers 
 were treated on going ashore, and protested against 
 their being followed by soldiers, the dispersion of the 
 people, and the closing of the shops. These, he de- 
 clared, were at variance with the stipulations of the 
 treaty ; and threatened, if the annoyances should con- 
 tinue, he would sail to Yedo with his whole squadron 
 and demand an explanation. 
 
 The prefect, upon hearing this protest of the Com- 
 modore, replied that the Dutch at Nagasaki were 
 
THE OFFICIALS CALLED TO ACCOtTNT, 291 
 
 always followed by twelve or fourteen Japanese sol- 
 diers, and seemed to think that such a precedent should 
 be a rule of conduct for the Americans. He was, 
 however, told that the treatment of the Dutch was 
 not to be taken for a moment as a criterion by which 
 the Japanese authorities were to judge of what was 
 proper in their relations with the Americans, who had 
 a " treaty of amity and intercourse " with Japan ; 
 and coming, as they did, to Simoda as friends, they 
 would insist upon being treated as such, and suffer no 
 infringement of privileges which had been guaranteed 
 by a solemn compact. The prefect, moreover, was 
 told that the Americans intended no harm to the peo- 
 ple, but, on the contrary, desired the most friendly 
 relations with them, and the freest intercourse, with- 
 out being watched and restrained by soldiers, acting 
 under the orders of their superiors. Such a surveil- 
 lance as had hitherto been practised was what Ameri- 
 cans were not accustomed to, and particularly as it 
 would seem to indicate that they were intent upon the 
 commission of some outrage. 
 
 This resolute language produced its desired effect 
 upon the prefect, who excused his conduct upon the 
 plea that he had left Yoku-hama before the signing 
 of the treaty, and had, in consequence, not been aware 
 that it contained the clause " free intercourse." He 
 would be obliged, he continued, to refer to his supe- 
 riors at Yedo for instructions on this point, and ascer- 
 tain how they construed that article ; but, in the mean- 
 while, he would give orders that the houses should not 
 be closed, and try the experiment of allowing the offi- 
 cers to visit the shore without being followed by soldiers. 
 
292 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 The various oflScers of the squadron now visited 
 the shore daily, and for a time there was apparently 
 less disposition to interfere with their movements, or 
 watch their proceedings. On one of these occasions 
 a party had passed out into the country beyond 
 the suburbs, when they found two Japanese follow- 
 ing; but, as they were supposed to be a couple of 
 spies on the watch, little notice was at first taken of 
 them. Observing, however, that they seemed to be 
 approaching as if stealthily, and as though desirous 
 of seeking an opportunity of speaking, the American 
 officers awaited their coming up. On being accosted, 
 the Japanese were observed to be men of some position 
 and rank, as each wore the two swords characteristic 
 of distinction, and were dressed in wide but short 
 trowsers of rich silk brocade. Their manners showed 
 the usual courtly refinement of the better classes, but 
 they exhibited the embarrassment of men who evi- 
 dently were not perfectly at their ease, and were about 
 doing something of dubious propriety. They cast 
 their eyes stealthily about, as if to assure themselves 
 that none of their countrymen were at hand to observe 
 their proceedings, and then approaching one of the 
 officers and pretending to admire his watch-chain, 
 slipped within the breast of his coat a folded paper.* 
 
 * This paper proved to be a letter in Japanese, of which the follow- 
 ing is a literal translation by Mr. Williams, the interpreter of the 
 squadron : 
 
 " Two scholars from Yedo, in Japan, present this letter for the inspec- 
 tion of ' the high ofiScers and those who manage affairs.' Our attain- 
 ments are few and trifling, as we ourselves are small and unimportant, bo 
 that we are abashed in coming before you ; wo are neither skilled in tho 
 use of arms, nor are we able to discourse upon the rules of strategy and 
 
A 8TKANGE ENOOUNTEE. 293 
 
 They now significantly, with the finger upon the lips, 
 entreated secrecy, and rapidly made off. 
 
 During the succeeding night about two o'clock, 
 A. M., (April 26th,) the ofiicer of the mid watch, on 
 
 military discipline ; in trifling pursuits and idle pastimes our years and 
 months have slipped away. We have, however, read in books, and 
 learned a little by hearsay, what are the customs and education in Europe 
 and America, and we have been for many years desirous of going over 
 the ' five great continents,' but the laws of our country in all maritime 
 points are very strict ; for foreigners to come into the country, and for 
 natives to go abroad, are both immutably forbidden. Our wish to visit 
 other regions has consequently only ' gone to and fro in our own breasts 
 in continual agitation,' like one's breathing being impeded or his walking 
 cramped. Happily the arrival of so many of your ships iu these waters, and 
 stay for so many days, which has given us opportunity to make a pleasing 
 acquaintance and careful examination, so that we are fully assured of the 
 kindness and liberality of your excellencies, and your regard for others, 
 has also revived the thoughts of many years, and they are urgent for 
 an exit. 
 
 " This, then, is the time to carry the plan into execution, and we 
 now secretly send you this private request, that you will take us on board 
 your ships as they go out to sea ; we can thus visit around the five great 
 continents, even if we do, in this, slight the prohibitions of our own 
 country. Lest those who have the management of affairs may feel some 
 chagrin at this, in order to effect our desire, we are willing to serve in 
 any way we can on board of the ships, and obey the orders given us. 
 For doubtless it is, that when a lame man sees others walking he wishes 
 to walk too ; but how shall the pedestrian gratify his desires when he sees 
 another one riding? We have all our lives been going hither to you, 
 unable to get more than thirty degrees east and west, or twenty-five de- 
 grees north and south ; but now when we see how you sail on the tempests 
 and cleave the huge billows, going lightning speed thousands and myriads 
 of miles, skirting along the five great continents, can it not be likened to 
 the lame finding a plan for walking, and the pedestrian seeing a mode by 
 which he can ride ? If you who manage affairs will give our request 
 your consideration, we will retain the sense of the favor ; but the prohi- 
 bitions of our country are still existent, and if this matter should become 
 known we should uselessly see ourselves pursued and brought hack for 
 
294 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 board the steamer Mississippi, was aroused by a voice 
 from a boat alongside, and upon proceeding to the 
 gangway, found a couple of Japanese,who had mounted 
 the ladder at the ship's side, and upon being accosted, 
 made signs expressive of a desire to be admitted on 
 board. 
 
 They seemed very eager to be allowed to remain, 
 and showed a very evident determination not to return 
 to the shore, by the desire they expressed of casting 
 off their boat, utterly regardless of its fate. The 
 captain of the Mississippi directed them to the flag- 
 ship, to which, on retiring to their boat, they pulled off 
 at once. Having reached her with some difficulty, 
 in consequence of the heavy swell in the harbor, they 
 
 immediate execution without fail, and such a result would greatly grieve 
 the deep humanity and kindness you all bear towards others. If you 
 are willing to accede to this request, keep ' wrapped in silence our error 
 in making it ' until you are about to leave, in order to avoid all risk of 
 such serious danger to life ; for when, by-and-bye, we come back, our 
 countrymen will never think it worth while to investigate bygone 
 doings. Although our words have only loosely let our thoughts leak out, 
 yet truly they are sincere ; and if your excellencies are pleased to regard 
 them kindly, do not doubt them nor oppose our wishes. We together 
 pay our respects in handing this in. April 11." 
 
 A small note was enclosed, of which the following is a translation : 
 " The enclosed letter contains the earnest request we have had for many 
 days, and which we tried in many Ways to get off to you at Yoku-hama, 
 in a fishing boat, by night ; but the cruisers were too thick, and none 
 others were allowed to come alongside, so that we were in great uncer- 
 tainty how to act. Hearing that the ships were coming to Simoda we 
 have come to take our chance, intending to get a small boat to go off to 
 the ships, but have not succeeded. Trusting your worships will agree, 
 we will, to-morrow night, after all is quiet, be at Kakizaki in a small 
 boat, near the shore, where there are no houses. There we greatly hope 
 you to meet us and take us away, and thus bring our hopes to fruition. 
 April 25." 
 
TWO JAPANESE TRAVELLERS. 295 
 
 had hardlj got upon the ladder and mounted to the 
 gangway, when their boat got adrift, either by acci- 
 dent, or from being let go intentionally. On their 
 reaching the deck, the officer informed the Commo- 
 dore of their presence, who sent his interpreter to 
 confer with them and learn the purposes of their un- 
 timely visit. They frankly confessed that their object 
 was to be taken to the United States, where they 
 might gratify their desire of travelling, and seeing the 
 world. They were now recognized as the two men 
 who had met the officers on shore, and given one of 
 them the letter. They seemed much fatigued by their 
 boating excursion, and their clothes showed signs of 
 being travel-worn, although they proved to be Japan- 
 ese gentlemen of good position. They both were en- 
 titled to wear the two swords, and one still retained a 
 single one, but they had left the other three in the 
 boat which had gone adi-ift with them. They were 
 educated men, and wrote the mandarin Chinese with 
 fluency and apparent elegance, and their manners 
 were courteous and highly refined. The Commodore, 
 on learning the purpose of their visit, sent word that 
 he regretted that he was unable to receive them, as 
 he would like very much to take some Japanese to 
 America with him. He, however, was compelled to 
 refuse them until they received permission from their 
 government, for seeking which they would have ample 
 opportunity, as the squadron would remain in the 
 harbor of Simoda for some time longer. They were 
 greatly disturbed by this answer of the Commodore, 
 and declaring that if they returned to the land they 
 would lose their heads, earnestly implored to be 
 
296 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 allowed to remain. The prayer was firmly but kindly 
 refused. A long discussion ensued, in the course of 
 wliich they urged every possible argument in their 
 favor, and continued to appeal to the humanity of the 
 Americans. A boat was now lowered, and after some 
 mild resistance on their part to being sent off, they 
 descended the gangway piteously deploring their fate, 
 and were landed at a spot near where it was supposed 
 their boat might have drifted. 
 
 On the afternoon of the next day, Tenoske, the 
 chief interpreter, who had arrived from Tedo, came 
 on board the Powhatan, and requested to see the flag- 
 lieutenant, to whom he stated, that " last night a cou- 
 ple of demented Japanese had gone off to one of the 
 American vessels," and wished to know if it had been 
 the flag-ship ; and if so, whether the men had been 
 guilty of any impropriety. The flag-lieutenant re- 
 plied, that it was difficult to retain any very precise 
 recollection of those who visited the ships, as so many 
 were constantly coming from the shore in the water- 
 ing boats and on business, but he assured the inter- 
 preter that no misdemeanor could have been com- 
 mitted, or he would have been aware of the fact. The 
 interpreter was then asked, whether the Japanese he 
 referred to had reached the shore in safety, to which 
 the very satisfactory answer that " they had " was 
 received. 
 
 The Commodore, upon hearing of the visit of the 
 interpreter and the apparent anxiety of the Japanese 
 authorities in regard to the conduct of the two strange 
 visitors to the ships, sent an officer on shore in order 
 to quiet the excitement which had been created, and 
 
THE TWO JAPANESE CATTGHT. 297 
 
 to interpose as far as possible in behalf of the poor 
 fellows, who it was certain wotild be pursued with 
 the utmost rigor of Japanese law. The authorities 
 were thanked for the solicitude they had expressed 
 lest the Americans should have been inconvenienced 
 by any of their people, and assured that they need not 
 trouble themselves for a moment with the thought 
 that so slight a matter had been considered otherwise 
 than a mere trivial occurrence unworthy of any in- 
 vestigation. The Japanese were further informed 
 that they need give themselves no anxiety for the 
 future, as none of their countrymen should be received 
 on board the American ships without the consent of 
 the authorities, as the Commodore and his officers 
 were not disposed to take advantage of their confi- 
 dence or act in any way that would be inconsistent 
 with the spirit of the treaty. 
 
 If the Commodore had felt himself at liberty to 
 indulge his feelings, he would have gladly given a 
 refuge on board his ship to the poor Japanese, who 
 apparently sought to escape from the country from 
 the desire of gratifying a liberal curiosity, which had 
 been stimulated by the presence of the Americans in 
 Japan. There were other considerations which, how- 
 ever, had higher claims than an equivocal humanity. 
 To connive at the flight of one of the people was to 
 disobey the laws of the Empire, and it was the only 
 true policy to conform, in all possible regards, to the 
 institutions of a country by which so many important 
 concessions had already been reluctantly granted. 
 The Empire of Japan forbids the departure of any of 
 its subjects for a foreign country under the penalty of 
 13* 
 
298 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 death, and the two men who had fled on board the 
 ships were criminals in the eye of their own laws, 
 however innocent they might have appeared to the 
 Americans. Moreover, although there was no reason 
 to doubt the account the two Japanese gave of them- 
 selves, it was possible they were influenced by other 
 and less worthy motives than those they professed. 
 It might have been a stratagem to test American 
 honor, and some believed it so to be. The Commo- 
 dore, by his careful efibrts to impress upon the au- 
 thorities how trifling he esteemed the offence, hoped 
 to mitigate the punishment to which it was amenable. 
 The event was full of interest, as indicative of the in- 
 tense desire for information on the part of two edu- 
 cated Japanese, who were ready to brave the rigid 
 laws of the country, and to risk even death for the 
 sake of adding to their knowledge. The Japanese are 
 undoubtedly an inquiring people, and would gladly 
 welcome an opportunity for the expansion of their 
 moral and intellectual faculties. The conduct of the 
 unfortunate two was, it is believed, characteristic of 
 their countrymen, and nothing can better represent 
 the intense curiosity of the people, while its exercise 
 is only prevented by the most rigid laws and cease- 
 less watchfulness lest they should be disobeyed. In 
 this disposition of the people of Japan, what a field 
 of speculation, and, it may be added, what a pros- 
 pect full of hope opens for the fiiture of that interest- 
 ing country I 
 
 Some days subsequently, as a party of officers were 
 strolling in the suburbs, they came upon the prison of 
 
THE TWO JAPANESE OAGED, 299 
 
 the town, where they recognized the two unfortunate 
 Japanese immured in one of the usual places of con- 
 fnement, a kind of cage, barred in front and very re- 
 stricted in dimensions. The poor fellows had been 
 immediately pursued upon its being discovered that 
 they had visited the ships, and after a few days they 
 were pounced upon and lodged in prison. They 
 seemed to bear their misfortune with great equanimi- 
 ty, and were greatly pleased apparently with the visit 
 of the American officers, in whose eyes they evident- 
 ly were desirous of appearing to advantage. On one 
 of the visitors approaching the cage, the Japanese 
 wrote on a piece of board that was handed to them 
 the following, which, as a remarkable specimen of 
 philosophical resignation under circumstances which 
 would have tried the stoicism of Cato, deserves a 
 record : 
 
 " When a hero fails in his purpose, his acts are 
 then regarded as those of a villain and a robbfer. In 
 public have we been seized and pinioned and caged 
 for many days. The village elders and head men 
 treat us disdainfully, their oppressions being grievous 
 indeed. Therefore, looking up while yet we have 
 nothing wherewith to reproach ourselves, it must now 
 be seen whether a hero will prove himself to be one 
 indeed. Kegarding the liberty of going through the 
 sixty States as not enough for our desires, we wished 
 to make the circuit of the five great continents. This 
 was our hearts' wish for a long time. Suddenly our 
 plans are defeated, and we find ourselves in a half- 
 sized house, where eating, resting, sitting, and sleep- 
 ing are difficult ; how can we find our exit from this 
 
300 EXPEDITIOK TO JAPAW. 
 
 place? "Weeping, we seem as fools; laughing, as 
 rogues. Alas ! for us ; silent we can only be. 
 
 "ISAGI KOODA, 
 "KWAI^SUCHI MANJI." 
 
 The Commodore, on being informed of the im- 
 prisonment of the two Japanese, sent his flag-lieuten- 
 ant on shore to ascertain unofficially whether they 
 were the same who had visited the ships. The cage 
 was found as described, but empty, and the guards of 
 the prison declared that the men had been sent that 
 morning to Yedo, in obedience to an order from the 
 capital. They had been confined, it was stated, for 
 going off to the American ships, and as the prefect 
 had no authority to act in the matter, he had at once 
 reported the case to the imperial government, which 
 had sent for the prisoners, and then held them under 
 its jurisdiction. The fate of the poor fellows was 
 never ascertained, but it is hoped that the authorities 
 were more merciful than to have awarded the severest 
 penalty, which was the loss of their heads, for what 
 appears to us only a liberal and highly commendable 
 curiosity, however great the crime according to the 
 eccentric and sanguinary code of Japanese law. It 
 is a comfort to be able to add, that the Commodore 
 received an assurance from the authorities, upon ques- 
 tioning them, that he need not apprehend a serious 
 termination. 
 
 There was, notwithstanding the promise of the 
 prefect, very little improvement in the conduct of the 
 authorities, and the Americans still found their liber- 
 
 * The Commodore suspected the whole to be a trick of the authori- 
 ties to test his adherence to the spirit of the Treaty. 
 
ISL SPIES STILL ABOUT. 301 
 
 ty much restricted, and their privacy interrupted by 
 the jealous watchfulness and intrusive officiousness of 
 the soldiers and spies. The Commodore himself, on 
 one occasion, when proceeding through the town in 
 company with several of his officers, found that he 
 was constantly preceded by two Japanese function- 
 aries, who ordered all the people they met to retire 
 within their houses and close the doors. The shop- 
 men were evidently forbidden to sell their wares to 
 the strangers, for the most trifling articles which they 
 might desire to purchase could not be obtained on 
 any terms. The Commodore found it necessary again 
 to protest against this illiberal treatment, and sent his 
 flag-lieutenant to the prefect to lay before him certain 
 complaints and to insist upon their causes being im- 
 mediately removed. The prefect was accordingly 
 called upon, and informed that it appeared that he 
 was determined to evade the full execution of the 
 stipulations of the treaty, since, by allowing his spies 
 or soldiers to follow the Americans, and by ordering 
 the people to withdraw from the streets and to close 
 their houses, he was placing every obstruction in the 
 way of that friendly intercourse with the Japanese 
 which was guarantied by the compact solemnly en- 
 tered into between Japan and the United States. The 
 prefect was then assured, that if these annoyances 
 should continue, the Commodore would stop all rela- 
 tions with the town and return to Yedo, as, although 
 he had been eight days at Simoda, there had been 
 very little improvement in the conduct of the authori- 
 ties, and his patience was exhausted. 
 
 The prefect excused himself by averring that the 
 
302 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Commodore was mistaken in his allegations, and that 
 the soldiers were present for the protection of the 
 visitors, and were engaged, not, as was supposed, in 
 ordering the people to withdraw and close their houses, 
 but in directing them to welcome the Americans, and 
 open their doors to them. Upon the flag-lieutenant, 
 however, urging that his personal experience proved 
 the contrary, the prefect said then that his orders had 
 been misunderstood, and he would renew them and 
 Bee that they were executed, that the Commodore 
 might have no reason to complain thereafter. In re- 
 gard to trading with the Americans, the prefect de- 
 clared that he had received no instructions to allow 
 of it until the opening of a bazaar. He was then 
 answered that the officers merely wanted some small 
 articles for their own use, and any purchases they 
 might make could not be considered as coming within 
 the technical understanding of the term " trade." It 
 was then agreed, after some resistance on the part of 
 the prefect and a long discussion, that whenever an 
 American wished to buy any article he should give 
 an order for it to the shopman, who would be directed 
 to take the order and the purchase to the interpreter, 
 by whom the article would be sent to the ships. The 
 prefect then referred to the case of the two Japanese 
 who had clandestinely visited the steamers, and 
 seemed solicitous of obtaining some information in 
 regard to their conduct, but his inquiries were ab- 
 ruptly checked by the answer that the Commodore 
 was not to be questioned by any of the subordinates 
 of the government. 
 
 As the Americans, subsequent to this last inter- 
 
ARRIVAL OF MACEDONIAN. 303 
 
 view with the prefect, began to frequent the shops 
 and select articles for purchase, it was found neces- 
 sary to establish some temporary currency. It was 
 accordingly arranged, since the Japanese money, from 
 the strict laws which governed its circulation, could 
 not be used in dealings with foreigners, that United 
 States coins should be received by the shopmen at 
 Simoda. The value of these was estimated compara- 
 tively with the Chinese copper cash, with which the 
 Japanese were familiar, at the rate of 1,600 Chinese 
 cash to one silver dollar. This the Japanese readily 
 assented to, and became soon as eager as any other 
 trading people to become possessed of the money of 
 the Americans. 
 
 On the 2d of May the Macedonian arrived from 
 the Bonin Islands with a very welcome supply of fine 
 turtles, which were distributed among the several 
 ships of the squadron and greatly enjoyed. The mar^ 
 ket of Simoda was not well supplied with fresh meats ; 
 for, in consequence of the prevailing Buddhism and 
 the simple habits of the people, there were but few 
 animals which could be obtained for food. The poul- 
 try were very scarce, and the few cattle in the place 
 were too much valued as beasts of burden to be readi- 
 ly offered for sacrifice to the carnivorous propensi- 
 ties of strangers ; so the arrival of the turtles was 
 very gratefully welcomed by those on board ship, who, 
 with the exception of a supply of fish and vegetables, 
 had been long confined to a sea-diet of biscuit and 
 salt junk. 
 
 Two days subsequent to the arrival of the Mace- 
 donian the Lexington was despatched for Lew Chew, 
 
 * About the eame as the exchange at Canton. 
 
304 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 and on tlie 6tli of May the Macedonian, Vandalia, 
 and Southampton preceded the steamers and sailed 
 for Hakodadi. 
 
 One of the sailors on board the Powhatan having 
 unfortunately fallen from aloft and died soon after, 
 it became necessary to make some provision for his 
 burial. The Japanese authorities readily assented to 
 the request that he should be buried ashore, A place 
 of interment was accordingly selected in the neigh- 
 borhood of the village of Kaki-zaki, and thencefor- 
 ward appropriated as the burial place for Americans. 
 On the day of the funeral several Japanese officials 
 came on board ship, and saying that their laws re- 
 quired it, asked to inspect the body. They, however, 
 politely prefaced their demands with the remark that 
 it was a formality about which the prefect and they 
 themselves could exercise no discretion, but that they 
 had no doubt it might be dispensed with for the fu- 
 ture, on a requisition being made to the commission- 
 ers. As the coffin was still unnailed, and there seemed 
 no good reason for refusing to grant the request of 
 the Japanese officials, they were allowed to see the 
 body. The burial then took place, according to the 
 usual Christian ceremonies, in the place on shore 
 which had been appropriated for the purpose. 
 
 Every thing seemed now to be on the most friend- 
 ly footing, and it was with no little surprise and vexa- 
 tion that the Commodore heard, from the reports of 
 some of his officers, of an outrage which called for a 
 prompt rebuke, and the demand for an apology from 
 the local authorities. The Commodore's first impulse, 
 in fact, was to dispatch a guard of marines on shore 
 
AW OUTEAGE KEBXIKED. 305 
 
 to arrest the Japanese officials who had been guilty, 
 but, upon reflection, he determined to send his lieu- 
 tenant to call upon the prefect and to lay before him 
 the facts of the outrage, and to insist upon the fullest 
 explanation and apology. The occurrence was sim- 
 ply this : three of the officers went ashore to amuse 
 themselves in the neighborhood of Simoda with their 
 fowling-pieces, and after a day's shooting, which was 
 prolonged to a late hour, they betook themselves to 
 one of the temples as a resting-place. As the even- 
 ing was too far advanced to think of returning to the 
 ships, it was proposed that the sportsmen should spend 
 their night in the lodging apartment connected with 
 the establishment. With a view courteoiisly to avoid 
 any misunderstanding, the officers first informed Tat- 
 Buoske, the interpreter, of their intention, which was 
 supposed to be in perfect conformity with the under- 
 standing with the authorities, who had specifically 
 declared that either of the temples was at the dispo- 
 sition of the Commodore and his officers for a resting- 
 place. The three gentlemen had hardly, however, 
 entered, and prepared themselves for a night's rest 
 upon the soft mats of the apartment, when a great 
 noise at the entrance, and the subsequent thronging 
 in of a troop of soldiers, led by Tatsnoske and a num- 
 ber of Japanese officials, disturbed their prospect of 
 repose, and greatly aroused the indignation of the 
 officers. The Japanese intruded themselves uncere- 
 moniously into the sleeping apartment, and rudely in- 
 sisted on the Americans leaving on the instant and re- 
 turning to the ships. 
 
 Tatsnoske and another official, finding that their 
 
306 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 urgent appeals were unheeded, left with, the inten- 
 tion, as they said, of going to see the Commodore in 
 reference to the matter. In their absence, the re- 
 maining officials and soldiers became still more rude 
 and insolent, but were soon brought to a civil silence 
 and driven in fright from the apartment by the for- 
 midable attitude of the three officers, who stood to 
 their arms, and significantly cocked their revolvers. 
 There was no further interruption to the tranquillity 
 of the officers, but a guard was stationed in another 
 part of the temple, where they remained during the 
 whole night. 
 
 The prefect was disposed at first to justify the 
 conduct of his subordinates when the case was laid 
 before him. He, however, upon a strenuous demand 
 of the Commodore for an apology, disavowed the 
 whole proceeding, saying that his subordinates had 
 acted upon their own responsibility and without his 
 knowledge, and that he regretted its occurrence. This 
 apology was, of course, accepted, with a reminder, 
 however, that for the future the Commodore could 
 make no distinction between the prefect's own acts 
 and those of his subordinates, but that the former 
 would be held responsible in all cases. The prefect 
 then expressed a desire to restrict the stay of officers 
 during the night on shore to cases of necessity, biit 
 any such qualification of the privilege was positively 
 denied ; and as the Japanese " could not, of course, 
 judge of the necessity which might require the Ame- 
 rican officers to remain on shore, they must decide 
 that for themselves." 
 
 All the difficulty now being removed, there was no 
 
DEPAETUEE FOE HAKODADI. 307 
 
 further interruption to the friendly intercourse be- 
 tween the people of Simoda and their American 
 visitors. There were daily and most intimate rela- 
 tions with the authorities, who seemed anxious to facil- 
 itate the views of the Commodore, and superintended 
 the supplying of his vessels with water, and all the 
 provisions their scant resources afforded. As the day 
 was now approaching, the 9th of May, which had been 
 appointed for meeting the Japanese officials at Hako- 
 dadi, the Commodore took his departure for that place 
 in his flag-ship, the Powhatan, accompanied by the 
 steamer Mississippi. The Macedonian, Vandalia, and 
 Southampton had sailed previously for the same port. 
 The storeship Supply was left at Simoda. 
 
 On leaving the outer harbor, Oho-sima and other 
 islands of the cluster, lying at the entrance of the 
 Gulf of Yedo, came into full sight. For the sake of 
 examining the former, and obserAdng more closely the 
 volcano on it, the steamers were steered so as to pass 
 near its southern end. The volcano was in a state of 
 active eruption, and there seemed to be either several 
 craters, or one of great extent, as the vapor and smoke 
 could be seen rising at short intervals and at difi'erent 
 places along the crest of a ridge of mountains which 
 extended to a distance of four or five miles. After 
 passing Oho-sima, the steamers hauled up for Cape 
 King, for the purpose of establishing the position of 
 tliat important headland by the meridian observations. 
 Up to the southern end of Oho-sima there was but 
 little current discovered, but after reaching the chan- 
 nel between that island and Cape King, it was observed 
 to run with considerable rapidity in a direction nearly 
 
308 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 east, and on doubling the Capes its velocity increased 
 still more. 
 
 In running along the coast between Capes Susaki, 
 Serofaraa, and Firatatsi, or as the last is most gener- 
 ally called, Cape King, the three prominent southern 
 headlands of the promontory of Awa, there was a good 
 view of the land, and every one was struck with the 
 extraordinary extent and perfection of its cultivation. 
 Every portion of earth, from the base to the very 
 summits of the mountains, was terraced and planted 
 with grain, and towns and villages were seen crowd- 
 ing, in all directions, the hill sides and the valleys. 
 
 As the steamers sailed along the coast, they came 
 within the influence of the stream, called by the Ja- 
 panese the Kuro-siwo, or great stream. It has, in its 
 course, temperature, and the sea-weed which floats 
 in it, some striking analogies with our gulf stream. 
 
 While steering along the shore to the northward, 
 the steamers, being about six miles from the land, and 
 off Isomura, approached a fleet of fishing-boats, where 
 there was noticed a discoloration of the water and an 
 unusual drift of sea-weed. Soundings were then taken 
 with the deep-sea-lead, and seventy-four, and then 
 eighty fathoms, with a bottom of fine black sand, were 
 found. The vessels still continuing to run along the 
 shore within five or six miles, and the Dai-ho-saki or 
 White Cape being made, another cluster of fishing- 
 boats was noticed under sail, apparently trailing for 
 fish. About them the water was observed broken and 
 discolored, and when the steamers had reached within 
 a mile of the spot, their engines were stopped, and 
 the lead again thrown, when soundings were obtained 
 
COURSE, WINDS AND CURRENTS. 309 
 
 in thirty fathoms, coral bottom. The ships' course 
 being changed from northeast by east to southeast, and 
 running slowly and cautiously, they came suddenly 
 on the eastern edge of the broken water into twenty- 
 one fathoms, with what is called overfalls, and a bot- 
 tom of coral as before. There seemed every reason 
 to believe, from these indications,that there was a dan- 
 gerous ledge lying directly in the way along the coast, 
 at a distance from the land where such a danger would 
 be hardly looked for. The Commodore would have 
 anchored and examined this ledge had it not been for 
 the near approach of night ; and as for waiting until 
 the next day, the necessity of being at Hakodadi on 
 the 19th of May, made it advisable not to lose any 
 time by delay. It is true, with good weather, there 
 was every reason to expect that the voyage might be 
 accomplished in a day or two before the time ap- 
 pointed, but with the frequency of fogs about the 
 Straits of Sangar, and the experience of the vexatious 
 detentions caused by those annoyances, there could be 
 no certainty in the calculation. 
 
 During the day-time the course was kept along the 
 coast, although at night the ships were hauled a little 
 off. On the 15th of May, Cape Kurosaki came into 
 sight, with its elevated peaks in the interior covered 
 with snow. The atmosphere was fresh and invigorat- 
 ing, the mean temperature of the air being 59° of 
 Fahrenheit, and that of the water 55°. The water 
 was perfectly smooth, with an oily aspect from 
 the surface being covered with a substance which 
 was supposed to be the excrement of whales, of which 
 large numbers of various kinds, as well as of por- 
 
310 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 poises, were seen. At daylight, on the 16th, the course 
 was shaped at an angle approaching the coast, and 
 although the land had been for awhile out of sight, it 
 was now again made, and traced along until the ships 
 reached the northeastern extremity of Nippon, called 
 by the Japanese Sirija Saki. The southern and eastern 
 coast of Japan from Cape Sirofama, as far as was ob- 
 served, is not so high as that on the western side of 
 the Gulf of Tedo. It is, however, of sufficient height 
 to be observed, in tolerably clear weather, at a dis- 
 tance of forty miles. 
 
 On getting abreast of Cape Sirija Saki, the Strait 
 of Sangar, which separates Nippon from Yesso, was 
 full in view, with the high land of the latter island 
 distinctly visible ahead. The course was now steered 
 directly for Hakodadi, but on getting into the middle 
 of the strait a current or tide was encountered, which 
 probably accelerated the eastern one, until the two 
 reached a combined velocity of six knots. This pow- 
 erful current prevented the steamers from reaching 
 port that night, and it was thought advisable to put 
 the heads of the steamers seaward. This would not 
 have been necessary if any reliance could have been 
 placed upon the continuance of clear weather. The 
 engines were so managed as to expend but little coal, 
 and still to retain the position of the vessels ; conse- 
 quently, on taking the cross-bearings at daylight, it 
 was found, notwithstanding the current, that the ships 
 had not shifted their places a mile from where they 
 had been when night set in. 
 
 Scarcely, however, had the steamers stood, again 
 for their destined port, when a dense fosj came on and 
 
AKEIVAL IK BAY OF HAKODADI. 311 
 
 obscured every object from sight, so that it was found 
 necessary to head the steamers towards the east. The 
 sun, however, approaching the zenith, cleared away 
 the fog, and fortunately bearings were distinguished 
 which served as a guide to the port. As the cape, 
 called by the Japanese Surro-kubo, and which the 
 Commodore named Cape Blunt, in honor of his friends 
 Edmund and George Blunt, of ISTew York, was ap- 
 proached, there could be discerned over the neck 
 of land which connects the promontory of Treaty 
 Point* with the interior, the three ships of the squad- 
 ron which had been previously despatched, safely at 
 anchor in the harbor of Hakodadi. At the approach 
 of the steamers, in obedience to previous instructions 
 of the Commodore, boats came oif from the ships with 
 officers prepared to pilot the Powhatan and Mississippi, 
 which finally came to anchor at nine o'clock on the 
 morning of the 17th of May. 
 
 The spacious and beautiful bay of Hakodadi, which 
 for accessibility and safety is one of the finest in the 
 world, lies on the north side of the Strait of Sangar, 
 which separates the Japanese islands of Nippon and 
 Yesso, and about midway between Sirija-saki, the 
 northeast point of the former and the city of Matsmai. 
 The bay bears from the cape K'.'W". -J W. distant aboiit 
 forty-five miles, and is four miles wide at its entrance 
 and runs five miles into the land. 
 
 As the steamers approached their anchorage, there 
 was seen a large fleet of junks floating in the harbor, 
 near the low isthmus which stretches out from the 
 mainland, and terminates in a peninsular mountain 
 
 I* So called on the American charts. 
 
312 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Bome twelve hundred feet in heiglit. At the base of 
 this mountain lay the town of Hakodadi, with its 
 houses and temples, extending along the shore, and 
 distributed among the groves of trees, which shade 
 the acclivity. The lofty mountains, with their sum- 
 mits covered with snow, looked gloomy in the distance, 
 but the harbor, populous with its many hundred junks, 
 the expanse of the straits crossed and recrossed by 
 the numerous vessels plying between the towns on the 
 opposing coasts, and the cultivated slopes of the hills, 
 with the rice and other grain ripening in the sun, gave 
 a cheerful aspect to the scene. 
 
 Great consternation was produced among the peo- 
 ple of Hakodadi by the arrival of the American 
 squadron in their waters. The inhabitants hurried out 
 of the town with their backs and their horses loaded 
 down with goods and valuables ; and as soon as 
 the steamers came to anchor, some of the Japanese 
 officials pushed off and boarded the ships. They 
 showed marks of great anxiety on their arrival, 
 and asked with very evident concern, the purpose of 
 the visit of the Americans. Upon being told that a 
 treaty had been made, they expressed much surprise, 
 and declared that they had been kept in utter igno- 
 rance of the negotiations. The Commissioners had 
 agreed to send a representative to meet the Commo- 
 dore at Hakodadi, but no such personage had arrived. 
 In the mean time the Commodore insisted upon the 
 same privileges as had been reluctantly conceded to 
 him at Simoda. After a long delay and a series of 
 tedious daily negotiations, the Americans were allowed 
 to visit the land, to have possession of several temples 
 
ALARM OF PEOPLE. 
 
 313 
 
 of resort on shore, and to obtain those articles and 
 supplies they desired to purchase. The inhabitants 
 of Hakodadi were soon reassured, and, returning to 
 the town, resumed their routine of daily occupation, 
 and became gradually familiarized with the presence 
 of the strangers. 
 
 14 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Hakodadi * is situated in. the straits of Sangar, at 
 the south of the island of Yesso, of which it is the 
 largest town, with the exception of Matsmai. It is a 
 place of considerable commercial importance, and car- 
 ries on a large trade with various ports in Japan and the 
 interior of Yesso. Fleets of junks are constantly en- 
 gaged in carrying dried and salted fish, prepared sea- 
 weed, charcoal and deers' horns, the products of Hako- 
 dadi and the neighboring country, and bringing back 
 rice, sugar, tea, tobacco, silks, cloths, lacquered ware, 
 cutlery, and whatever else there may be a market for 
 in the town and in the interior. During the short 
 stay of about two weeks of the American squadron, 
 over a hundred junks sailed from Hakodadi for va- 
 rious southern ports in Japan. The inhabitants are 
 mostly engaged in occupations connected with the 
 water, and are either merchants, sailors, or fishermen. 
 The bay and harbor abound in excellent fish, in 
 salmon, salmon-trout, flounders, herrings, and in 
 clams, crabs, and muscles. The ships were always 
 
 * Hakodadi is the Japanese for " Box Shop," but why the town was 
 so called, it is impossible to conjectnre. 
 
THE TOWN ANB HOUSES. 315 
 
 sure of large draughts with the seines, and were thus 
 never without a supply of excellent fish of all varie- 
 ties. The fishermen were daily out in the bay with 
 their nets ; and groups of idlers, with their rods and 
 lines, never failed to gather about the piers to pass 
 the day in angling, as they squatted over the water 
 and patiently waited for a bite. 
 
 Hakodadi is large, containing several thousand 
 houses, which extend in a main avenue for a mile or 
 more along the seashore, with cross-streets which as- 
 cend a short distance up the acclivity of the lofty 
 promontory, at the base of which the town is built. 
 This promontory is divided into three principal peaks, 
 which reach a height from six hundred to a thousand 
 feet. Their summits are bare, but often covered with 
 snow ; their upper slopes are scantily clothed with 
 underwood and some scattered pines, while below, 
 where the ground begins to rise from the level land, 
 there is a rich profusion of verdant growth, with 
 groves of wide-spreading cypresses, tall forest maples, 
 and orchards of plum and peach trees. This abun- 
 dant vegetation presents a pleasant contrast to the 
 bolder and more barren aspect of the higher acclivi- 
 ties and summits of the surrounding hills. The town 
 thus appears to be nestling in repose under the cover 
 of the shade of the trees in the midst of a scene of 
 rural beauty, while all around in the distance is the 
 wild, bleak massiveness of nature. A low, sandy 
 isthmus, scantily verdant here and there with a few 
 patches of kitchen gardens, connects the peninsula 
 upon which the houses are built to the main land. 
 Coarse, hard rocks of trachyte, thrown up by volcanic 
 
316 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, 
 
 agency, separate the alluvial sand from the mountain- 
 ous region in the interior, and add to the wildness of 
 the scene. The Japanese have quarried the rocks 
 here and there ; and various hewn surfaces, vrith cut 
 blocks lying about, prove the art and busy industry of 
 the people. These quarries supply them with stone 
 for constructing their sea Avails, jetties, dykes, foun- 
 dations for their houses, and other building purposes. 
 The houses of Hakodadi are similar in construc- 
 tion to those of Simoda, but have one peculiarity 
 which strikes the stranger at first sight. On the front 
 of the gable of each building, which, like that of the 
 Dutch houses, faces the street, there is always a 
 wooden tub wrapped in straw and filled with water. 
 By the side of the tub there is a broom, which is kept 
 there in readiness, in case of fire, to sprinkle the roof 
 with, and thus protect it from the sparks. It would 
 appear, from the careful provision against conflagra- 
 tions, that ther*e was great anxiety on this score. 
 Along the streets every where, in addition to the tubs 
 on the tops of the houses, there are wooden cisterns 
 conveniently placed in all parts of the city; and, 
 moreover, the town is as well supplied with fire- 
 engines as New York. These engines, though in ap- 
 pearance something like our ovni, are deficient in the 
 important part of the machine called the air-box, and 
 consequently are spasmodic in their efforts, and do not 
 eject a continuous stream of water. Alarums, made 
 of thick pieces of wood, hung upon posts, which are 
 struck on the breaking out of a fire, are found at 
 every corner, and watchmen, stationed in sentry- 
 boxes, are always on the alert, by day and night. 
 
THE SILENCE OF THE CITY. 317 
 
 The streets of Hakodadi, like those of most Japa- 
 nese towns, are subdivided into vai-ious wards by 
 means of picket-gates, which cross from side to side, 
 and are closed after dark. These several wards are 
 so many separate communities governed by an alder- 
 man, who is called, in the Japanese language, an Ot- 
 tona. This official is responsible for the condition of 
 that part of the city under his administration, and 
 each Ottona is held answerable for the bad conduct 
 of his coadjutors — an extent of responsibility which 
 would be quite insupportable in the corrupt munici- 
 pal governments of our Christian country. The sys- 
 tem apparently works well, for Hakodadi is perfectly 
 well-ordered, being always quiet, clean, and whole- 
 some. 
 
 The stillness of the town was very impressive to 
 those accustomed to the din and turmoil of a city 
 like New York, for example. There was none of the 
 hum and apparent confusion of a place in the busy 
 excitement of daily business and pleasure. Hako- 
 dadi, though evidently carrying on a large trade — 
 for the harbor, with its numerous junks and fishing 
 boats, presented a stirring scene — showed no outward 
 marks of activity in the streets. There are no public 
 market-places, and all business is carried on silently 
 within the stores and shops. It is true, long trains of 
 packhorses, loaded down with goods, occasionally trot 
 thi-ough the streets, but there are no wheeled carriages 
 or carts to disturb the general silence. 
 
 The Tcago, which is a square box, to the contracted 
 capacity of which the suppleness of a Japanese back 
 or knee can alone accommodate itself, is the only 
 
318 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 kind of carriage used. This is carried by means of a 
 pole, like that of a sedan-chair, borne on the shoulders 
 of two men, and is the most uncomfortable kind of con- 
 veyance conceivable. The kago is occasionally made 
 very ornamental when belonging to the wealthier and 
 higher classes. The greater dignitaries generally 
 travel on horseback, and their animals are often 
 adorned with rich trappings. The Japanese horse is 
 of small breed, but of a compact form, with delicate 
 tendinous limbs, and is active, spirited, and of good 
 bottom. The roads are generally good, many of them 
 being broad and paved, while others are mere bridle 
 paths. The roadsides are, by the by, provided with 
 the convenience of odbinets cPaisance. 
 
 The buildings in Hakodadi are mostly of one story, 
 with attics of varying height, and are generally built 
 of pine boards. The Japanese wood work is never 
 painted, although in the interior of the houses it is oc- 
 casionally varnished or oiled. The houses have, con- 
 sequently, a mean, thriftless look, and are but poorly 
 protected against the effects of the weather. In the 
 wintry, moist climate of Hakodadi, the unpainted pine 
 boards soon mould and rot, so that the town has a more 
 rusty, ruined appearance than its age should indicate. 
 
 The interior of the houses is plain and simple in 
 arrangement, but always scrupulously neat and clean. 
 The furniture is exceedingly scanty. The floors are 
 spread with mats of a uniform size of three feet by 
 six, prescribed by law. These are made of rice-straw, 
 and are so neatly put together that the apartments 
 seem to be carpeted by a siiigle uniform covering. 
 As the ordinary practice of the Japanese is to kneel 
 
HOW THEY EAT AND SLEEP. 
 
 819 
 
 and crouch, and not sit, they have little occasion for 
 eeats or chairs, yet benches or divans, and a kind of 
 camp-stool are sometimes seen. The common people 
 generally crouch down in a sitting posture, while 
 kneeling is affected by the would-be genteel. 
 
 There are no beds, but a Japanese at night re- 
 clines upon the mat-spread floor, covers himself with 
 an additional mat, and props up his head with a 
 wooden block. There are no tables, but small lac- 
 quered stands of about a foot in height are used in- 
 stead. One of these is placed at meals before each 
 
 Japanese Cushion. 
 
 person, and he takes his tea, sips his sakee, or eats 
 his soup from it, as he crouches on the floor. The 
 household utensils are few and simple, consisting of a 
 supply of wooden chop-sticks, an occasional earthen 
 spoon, a few china bowls, some lacquered cups, and 
 the ubiquitous tea-kettle. The kettle is of earthen 
 ware, or of bronze, and sometimes, but rarely, of sil- 
 ver, and is always kept boiling over the charcoal fire, 
 which burns in the centre of the apartment, where 
 
320 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 square holes, lined witli tiles and filled witli sand, are 
 made for the purpose. 
 
 The tea is a universal article of consumption, and 
 is infused, as in China, in each cup as it is wanted, 
 and drank without sugar. The native sakee, which 
 is a potent liquor, not unlike whiskey, divides with 
 the beverage "that cheers but not inebriates" the 
 honors of a general appreciation. On the arrival of 
 
 a guest, he is expected to accept of either tea or sakee, 
 or of both. The chief meal of the day consists mostly 
 of three dishes — ^hot stewed fish, of the consistency 
 of a thick soup ; cold fish, garnished with grated 
 radish-; and a heterogeneous compound, where hard- 
 boiled eggs, cut in halves, are found mixed with fish, 
 shrimps, and dried sea-weed. These are served up in 
 
THE BETTER HOUSES. 321 
 
 covered bowls, and are always accompanied by two 
 cups, one containing soy, in which the contents of 
 each /iish are dipped before being eaten; and the 
 other, sakee, which is used universally by all classes. 
 The cooking is simple, and ordinarily performed over 
 the charcoal fire in the sitting apartment, though in 
 the more imposing establishments there are kitchens 
 in the rear of the house for the purpose. 
 
 Some of the wealthier people have suburban vil- 
 las on the outskirts of the town. These are surround- 
 ed with walled gardens, which are laid out in the 
 Chinese style, with fish-ponds, containing gold fish, 
 miniature bridges, pagoda-like summer houses, and 
 private chapels or shrines. Dwarf fruit-bearing and 
 shade trees, and beds of gayly variegated fiowers, 
 camellias, chrysanthemums, and other choice varieties, 
 adorn these retreats of the well-to-do Japanese citizen. 
 The same simplicity of construction and scantiness of 
 furniture generally characterize these as the more 
 humble dwellings. There is greater spaciousness, 
 however, in the apartments, and sometimes more re- 
 gard to ornament. The cornices of the rooms occa- 
 sionally show carvings of wood which would have 
 done credit to Grinling Gibbons, and the oiled-paper 
 panels are not seldom adorned with paintings of birds, 
 among which the sacred crane is a favorite subject, 
 and with landscapes much superior to the gaudy fres- 
 coes of our Fifth Avenue palaces, and not surpassed 
 by many of the pictures which hang from their showy 
 walls. The various household utensils, too, in the 
 better houses, are often of handsome pattern and 
 skilful workmanship. The lacquered stands upon 
 14* 
 
322 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAIT. 
 
 which food is served are gracefully carved, and very 
 highly polished with the famous Japanese lacquer ; 
 the lanterns, which are of paper, are sometimes 
 adorned with pictures, and supported upon well exe- 
 cuted bronzed branches ; and the china tea-pots and 
 cups are beautifully painted and enriched with gilt. 
 
 There are four large Buddhist temples in Hako- 
 dadi, one of which, called the Zhiogen-zhi, or the 
 country's protector, is a good specimen of Japanese 
 architecture. It was built by the townspeople about 
 twenty years since, and is kept in excellent repair. 
 The tiled roof rises fully sixty feet from the ground, 
 and is supported by an intricate arrangement of gird- 
 ers, posts, and tie-beams, resting upon large lacquered 
 
ZHIOGEN-ZHI. 
 
 323 
 
 pillars. This temple is one of the most conspicuous 
 objects seen when entering the harbor. The principal 
 apartment in the interior is elaborately carved and 
 richly gilded. The carving and sculpture about the 
 altar, the niches, and cornices, are of wood and brass, 
 and show very skilful workmanship. The designs 
 are dragons, phoenixes, cranes, tortoises, and other 
 subjects associated with the religious worship of 
 Buddha. The main floor is elevated six feet above 
 the ground, and covered as iisual with thick mats. 
 There are thr^e separate shrines, each containing an 
 
 
 W^*r-'^ 
 
 1 ^ ^ 'T?? ^SrS- 
 
 -^cif.£~-^ 7-y. sc. 
 
 image, the one in the nave being the largest and most 
 highly adorned. A sort of architrave descends be- 
 tween the pillars, so contrived that, with the aid of 
 
324 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 folding screens, tlie shrines may be readily partitioned 
 off. There are six priests attached to the establishment, 
 and their quarters, and those which are provided for 
 visitors, are models of neatness and cleanliness. The 
 temples in Japan, as in China, are often used for 
 places of concourse or entertainment, and on such oc- 
 casions the altars and shrines are covered or removed, 
 which so changes the aspect of the interior that 
 no one would suspect that he was in a house of 
 worship. 
 
 In the enclosure before the Zhiogen-zhi, there is a 
 grove of large spreading cypresses, in the shade of 
 which there are several outer buildings, and a shed 
 which covers six small stone images of deities. On 
 either side of the avenue which leads to the temple 
 there are pairs of stone candelabra, and near by the 
 statue of a goddess with a child in her arms. A 
 copper nimbus or glory surrounds the heads of all 
 these idols, and reminds the Christian visitor of what 
 he may have seen in some churches of his own country. 
 
 Each of these temples has its adjoining grave-yard, 
 filled with tombs and monuments characteristic of the 
 Japanese people and their religious belief. There 
 was a curious contrivance in one of the burial-places, 
 consisting of a tall post, in which an iron wheel was 
 inserted. The post was placed upright, and being 
 square, presented four surfaces, on each of which was 
 one or two of the following inscriptions or prayers : 
 
 " TTie great round mirror of knowledge says, ' wise 
 men and fools are embarked in the same boat ; ' 
 whether prospered or afflicted, both are rowing over 
 the deep lake ; the gay sails lightly hang to catch 
 
THE PEATING MACHINE. 325 
 
 the autumnal breeze ; then away they straight enter 
 the lustrous clouds, and become partakers of heaven's 
 knowledge." 
 
 " The believing man, Hanyo Shenkaman, who no 
 longer grows old." 
 
 "The believing woman, once called Tuenning: 
 Happy was the day she left." 
 
 " Multitudes fill the graves." 
 
 " To enable to enter the abodes of the perfect, and 
 to sympathise fully with the men of the world, be- 
 longs to Buddha. It is only by this one vehicle, the 
 coflSin, we can enter Hades. There is naught like 
 Buddha; nothing at all." 
 
 " "We of the human race with hearts, minds, and 
 understandings, when we read the volumes of Buddha, 
 enjoy great advantages." 
 
 " He whose prescience detects knowledge, says : 
 as the floating grass is blown by the gentle breeze, or 
 the glancing ripples of autumn disappear when the 
 sun goes down, or as the ship returns home to her 
 old shore, so is life : it is a smoke, a morning tide." 
 
 " Buddha himself earnestly desires to hear the 
 name of this person (who is buried), and wishes he 
 may go to life." 
 
 " He who has left humanity is now perfected by 
 Buddha's name, as the withered moss is by the dew." 
 
 "The canon of Buddha says, all who reach the 
 blissful land .will become so that they cannot be made 
 to transmigrate (or change for the worse)." 
 
 The square post upon which these inscriptions 
 were cut, was nearly eight feet in length, and near 
 the centre, at a convenient height to be reached by 
 
326 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 the hand, was affixed, vertically, a wheel, which 
 moved readily on an axle that passed through the 
 post. Two small iron rings were strung upon each 
 of the three spokes of the wheel. Every person who 
 twirled this instrument in passing was supposed to 
 obtain credit in heaven for one or more prayers on 
 the post, the number being graduated according to 
 the vigor of the performer's devotion, and the num- 
 ber of revolutions eflfected. The jingle of the small 
 iron rings was believed to secure the attention of the 
 deity to the invocation of the devotional, and the 
 greater the noise, the more certain of its being lis- 
 tened to. This praying by wheel and axle would seem 
 to be the very perfection of a ceremonious religion, 
 as it reduces it to a system of mechanical laws, which, 
 provided the apparatus is kept in order, a result easily 
 obtained by a little oil, moderate use, and occasional 
 repairs, can be readily executed with the least possi- 
 ble expenditure of human labor, and with all that 
 economy of time and thought which seems the great 
 purpose of our material and mechanical age. Hue, 
 in his interesting account of his travels in Thibet, 
 speaks of an improvement on the machine we have 
 described, where the apparatus was turned by water 
 power, and very appropriately styles it a prayer mill. 
 In the course of the progress of the Japanese in the 
 mechanical arts, this, with their usual readiness in 
 adopting new improvements, will no doubt be intro- 
 duced, or perhaps the more effective power of steam 
 will be applied to their praying machines, and with 
 the introduction of steamboats and railroads may 
 commence an era of locomotive devotion. 
 
MECHAsriCAi DEVOTION. 
 
 327 
 
 f^ py 
 
 Praying Machine. 
 
32S 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 There are three large Mia^ or Sintoo temples in 
 Hakodadi, called respectively the Sheumei, the Ha- 
 chiman, and the Penten, dedicated to national deified 
 heroes and gods. Gongs, drums, rattles, and other 
 noisy musical instruments, bear an important part in 
 the worship, and some of these are no less remarkable 
 for the beauty of their workmanship than for the vile- 
 ness of the music they produce. At the door of each 
 temple there is a straw rope connected with a bell 
 and a drum, and the former is pulled and the latter 
 beaten on the arrival of a devotee, in order to awaken 
 the deity to the consciousness of the presence of a 
 
 Gongs and Musical Instruments for Worship. 
 
 worshipper. The Sintoo temples are not in so flour- 
 ishing a condition as their competitors, the Buddhist 
 temples, which have gained the ascendency, and are 
 fast absorbing the whole devotional interests of the 
 
ROADSIDE IDOLS. 329 
 
 Japanese people. The former are generally got up 
 on a cheaper scale, and are much less resorted to. 
 They have no burying-grounds attached, and are not 
 surrounded by any defined enclosure. There are, 
 however, several gateways, with ornaments sculp- 
 tured on stone spanning the approach, but the area 
 which surrounds the temples is open, and the public 
 road passes through it. A curator with his family, 
 whose duty it is to keep the idols polished up and the 
 sacred grounds in a tidy condition, generally resides 
 on or near the premises. 
 
 Upon the summits and acclivities of the hills in 
 the neighborhood of Hakodadi, and in niches and 
 small shrines under shadow of groves of cypress and 
 trees by the wayside, are frequent stone statues of 
 Buddha, venerable with age and overgrown with 
 moss, about four feet high, elevated upon small pedes- 
 tals, and the innumerable ofi'erings of copper cash, 
 rags, flowers, and written papers, strewn before them, 
 prove the large number of devotees and the attention 
 of the people to their devotional duties. The Japa- 
 nese resort frequently to these roadside deities, and the 
 higher they are perched, and the more inaccessible 
 their approach, the greater is esteemed the merit in 
 invoking them. These idols are supposed to have 
 great power in warding off the storms or disasters to 
 which mariners on that inhospitable coast are exposed, 
 and most of the offerings are made with a view to 
 propitiate Buddha and his associate deities in the 
 event of an approaching danger. In addition to the 
 statues, there are distributed along the roads and 
 pathways frequent stone slabs with inscriptions and 
 
330 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 gallows-shaped gateways, fancifully carved and oma- 
 naented. These are never passed by the pious Japa- 
 nese without a genuflexion and the utterance of a pass- 
 ing prayer. 
 
 There is little appearance of military defence about 
 Hakodadi, though its position would seem to offer ad- 
 vantages for rendering it almost impregnable.* Be- 
 yond the town, however, in an easterly direction, 
 there are two earthen forts dug out of the ground, 
 and intended, apparently, to guard the entrance to 
 the harbor. Stakes or palisades are driven in along 
 the cuttings to prevent the earth from caving, and 
 to aid in the defence. Two wooden buildings stand 
 near by, which are connected with magazines under- 
 neath the excavated area of the forts. Within these 
 latter is a pavement of stone and embrasures of four 
 feet in width, opening in the eastern embankment 
 looking seaward, and made apparently for only two 
 guns. On the beach at the eastern end of the main 
 street, there is a building with a broad enclosure, 
 which seems to be intended for purposes of fortifica- 
 tion, although from the absence of cannon and other 
 warlike appointments, it may be only used for a pa- 
 rade ground. There are better specimens of military 
 defence in Japan than those rude constructions, as, 
 for example, at Uraga, where several stone forts ex- 
 ist, built according to more advanced principles of 
 art, although there are probably none in the whole 
 country which could withstand a slight cannonading 
 from European or American ships of war, or even an 
 attack from a few well-armed boats. 
 
 The country about Hakodadi, though picturesque 
 
JAPANESE VESSELS AND NAVIGATION. 331 
 
 to the view, did not present sucli attractions for the 
 pedestrian as that in the neighborhood of Simoda. 
 The environs are comparatively rude and uncultivated, 
 and the land is so broken by the hills and mountain- 
 ous elevations, that the roads are necessarily steep, 
 irregular, and toilsome to the traveller. The isolated 
 rock at the base, and on the side of which the town 
 is built, is steep and rough, but is ascended by a 
 winding path to the top. The summit commands 
 a fine view of the harbor, and was often scaled by the 
 officers of the expedition, where they were remind- 
 ed of the high advance in art of the country by find- 
 ing an observatory, or look-out for vessels, supplied 
 with a telescope of Japanese manufacture, arranged 
 with glasses like our own, inserted in a tube of 
 bamboo. 
 
 In a large town like Hakodadi, there are, of course, 
 many engaged in the mechanical arts. Tlie building 
 of junks is carried on extensively in yards bordering 
 the harbor. These vessels are seldom more than a 
 hundred tons in burden, and are constructed very 
 much like the Chinese junks. Canvas is, however, 
 used instead of the bamboo, as in China, for the sails. 
 The Japanese are timid navigators, and never lose 
 sight of the land, if possible, in their various voyages. 
 Although, from the insular character of their country, 
 they are naturally a maritime people, the government 
 — so resolute in its isolated policy — ^has forbidden, for 
 hundreds of years, all direct communication with for- 
 eign countries, under the penalty of death. The 
 construction of the junks is regulated by law as to 
 size and form, so that, with their small tonnage and 
 
332 EXPEDITIOlir TO JAPAJil. 
 
 open sterns, they are nnfit to encounter the storms of 
 the sea, and the people are fearful of venturing, in 
 their ill-constructed vessels, beyond the limits pre- 
 scribed by the government. 
 
 The Japanese have charts, but being without meri- 
 dian or scale, and having no record of soundings, they 
 are of no use except in their own timid navigation. 
 The largest junks in Japan do not draw more than 
 eight feet of water, and they run from port to port, 
 taking care to seek shelter in case of the least threat- 
 ening of a gale. Every harbor, however small, is 
 furnished with conveniences for securing the Japanese 
 craft, holes being artificially made through the angles 
 of the rocks for passing the cables, and where this is 
 not practicable, upright pillars or posts are hewn or 
 mortised in the stone, and all chafings of the moorings 
 provided against by a careful rounding and smoothing 
 of the neighboring projection or detached parts. 
 
 The Japanese are familiar with the working of the 
 metals. Their jewellers and silversmiths are expert 
 workmen, and the specimens of their manufacture 
 are often tasteful in design and of excellent workman- 
 ship. Of the coarser metals copper is much used, 
 and, as with us, for sheathing and bolting their ves- 
 sels, and for the manufacture of various cooking and 
 other household utensils. Iron is less frequently em- 
 ployed, and with great economy. It is seldom that 
 their implements are entirely composed of this metal, 
 it being usual to make them of wood, and merely tip 
 them with iron. The Japanese understand well the 
 carbonizing of iron, and the temper of much of their 
 steel is good, as was proved by the polish and sharp- 
 
CABIKET-WAEE. 333 
 
 ness of their sword-blades. The cutlery, however, in 
 common use at Hakodadi was of an inferior kind, and 
 a barber of one of the ships pronounced a razor pur- 
 chased in the town as abominably bad, neither cut- 
 ting nor capable of being made to cut. The black- 
 smiths work, as with us, with a charcoal fire and a 
 bellows. The latter however, is peculiarly made, 
 
 Blscksmlth'B Bellows. 
 
 being a box with a piston working horizontally, and 
 two holes at the side for the issue of the blast. Coop- 
 ering is an important trade at Hakodadi, where im- 
 mense quantities of fish are salted and packed for ex- 
 portation in barrels. These are made of staves, and 
 hooped as with us, but their form is peculiar, being 
 somewhat conical in shape. 
 
 The neatness of finish of the woodwork of the 
 houses proves the carpenters skilful workmen, and 
 the cabinet-ware, often inlaid, richly adorned, and 
 covered with the exquisite lacquer polish, is unsur- 
 passed by the finest mwrqueterie of Paris. Weaving 
 and the manufacture of coarse cotton clothing are 
 carried on in almost all the houses by the women, 
 who use looms constructed very much like those fa- 
 miliar to our own people 
 
334 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Afa^^^rLSI^r 
 
 Cabinet-Ware. 
 
 Nothing was seen of the higher and more compli- 
 cated branches of industrial art in operation, al- 
 though the shops were supplied with fabrics which 
 proved no little skill and perfection in various manu- 
 factures. The people seemed, however, to be unac- 
 quainted with woollen tissues, and exhibited great 
 curiosity in examining the cloth dresses of the Amer- 
 icans. 
 
 Their cottons are occasionally printed with colors, 
 forming neat calico patterns, but their tints readily fade, 
 and will not bear washing. The width of the calico 
 pieces, like that of the silks and crapes, is uniformly 
 eighteen inches. This is not suited to an American 
 or European market. Their silks are rich and heavy, 
 and somewhat like our brocade in texture, but stouter 
 and less flexible. They are often of very elaborate 
 figured patterns, interwoven with golden threads, and 
 
FINE ARTS. 335 
 
 exceedingly beautiful. These are mostly used for 
 the state robes of the high officials and dignitaries of 
 the land. A very high price was generally demanded 
 for these silks, though, in one instance, one of the 
 officers, from some cause or other, purchased a piece 
 at Hakodadi at thirteen cents per yard. The various 
 colored crapes are some of them very flimsy, and are 
 an essential part of Japanese upholstery, being often 
 seen as coverings to divans or seats, and hangings to 
 apartments. 
 
 In the higher arts the Japanese deserve a rank 
 much beyond any Oriental nation. The carvings in 
 wood with which many of the better houses and most 
 of the temples are adorned, show an exact knowledge 
 of form, particularly of that of familiar objects of na- 
 ture, such as birds, fish, and flowers, and a skill of 
 hand in the cutting almost perfect. In the Japanese 
 paintings and drawings there is the freedom that be- 
 longs to great manual dexterity, and a correctness of 
 outline which proves a close observation of nature. 
 Some specimens of the illustrated books brought to 
 this country by the Commodore, establish the fact 
 hitherto denied, that the Japanese, unlike the Chi- 
 nese, are familiar with the principles of perspective. 
 These works also show, in their drawings of tlie hu- 
 man flgure and of the horse, a well-directed study of 
 the anatomy of the form in its external developments. 
 
 The constant recurrence on the margin of the 
 pages of these Japanese books of what is usually 
 called by architects "the Greek fret or border," is 
 certainly curious. We are surprised by a classic 
 form that we would not have expected to find an es- 
 
336 EXPEDITION TO JAPAX. 
 
 tablished feature in Oriental art. There are also in 
 the Japanese ornamentation some curious coincidences 
 with what we term Gothic art, such as the trefoil and 
 other forms. 
 
 With the exception of a temple or a gateway here 
 and there, which, in comparison with the surrounding 
 low houses appeared somewhat imposing, there were 
 no buildings seen which impressed the Americans 
 with a high idea of Japanese architecture. The 
 most creditable specimens of this branch of art are 
 found in some of the stone causeways and bridges, 
 which are often built upon single bold Roman arches, 
 and in design and masonry are equal to the most 
 scientific and artistic structures any where. 
 
 The Japanese are great readers, and popular ro- 
 mances issue from their presses with the frequency 
 of cheap novels with us. Their books are printed by 
 means of wooden blocks, and it is said that they have 
 separate type of the same material ; while printing in 
 colors, which is an art just beginning with us, has 
 been long practised in Japan. Their paper is made 
 of the bark of the mulberry and of other woods, and 
 presents a good surface for the reception of the type, 
 but is of so thin a texture that the printing is confined 
 to one side only. The leaf of each book is according- 
 ly double, with two blank surfaces enclosed within. 
 A general system of public instruction extends its in- 
 fluence throughout the empire, and the commonest 
 people can read and write. 
 
 The Japanese are hard workers, but they have 
 occasional holidays, and vary the evenings and hours 
 of leisure with games and amusements. They have 
 
RELIGION AND NO RELIGION. 337 
 
 a game called *Sho-lio-ye, which corresponds with 
 our chess, and another like our cards, played with 
 flat pieces of horn, ivory, or bone. These are about 
 an inch and two-thirds long and little more than an 
 inch wide. There are forty-nine pieces, marked by 
 three different colors, blue, red, and white, to indicate 
 the suites, and also by lines and dots to signify the 
 value of the piece. The games played with these are 
 numerous, and are generally played for money. The 
 Japanese shuffle and cut them precisely as is done 
 with us, sometimes by lifting off a part of the pack, 
 and at others expressing satisfaction with them as they 
 are, by tapping the knuckle on the top of the heap. 
 Another common game is played with small black 
 and white stones, and seems to be somewhat of the 
 character of loto, so much played in the gardens and 
 estaminets of Paris and Hamburgh, frequented by 
 the lower classes. It was a cheerful reminder of one's 
 childhood, and another bond of sympathy between 
 the various branches of the human race, however re- 
 motely separated from each other, to find the little 
 shaven-pated lads playing ball in the streets of Ilako- 
 dadi, and jackstraws within the domestic circle at 
 home. 
 
 The prevailing religions of the Japanese are Budd- 
 hism and Sintooism. The former, however, is the fa- 
 vorite form of worship, and all its ceremonies are 
 carefully observed. 
 
 The higher classes of the Japanese are supposed 
 to be imbued with a wide philosophical skepticism, 
 and to regard the religion of their country merely as 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
 15 
 
338 
 
 EXPEDrnON TO JAPAK, 
 
 a state institution. They are tolerant of all forms of 
 worship but that of the Christian, which, since the 
 interference of the Portuguese Jesuit missionaries, 
 two hundred and fifty years ago, with the policy of 
 the government, has been strictly excluded from Ja- 
 pan. The Americans, however, regularly performed 
 the Christian worship on board their ships, while 
 floating within Japanese waters, and several of the 
 sailors who died were buried in Japan with the usual 
 
 American Burial Place. 
 
 ceremonies of our religion. The authorities, in fact, 
 appropriated, both at Simoda and Hakodadi, places 
 of interment for the American Christians. 
 
ARErVAL OF JAPANESE FUNCTIONARY. 
 
 339 
 
 The Conlmodore awaited more than two weeks 
 the arrival of the expected representative of the Japa- 
 nese Commissioners, who was to meet him at Hako- 
 dadi. After frequent conferences with the local 
 authorities and the agent of the Prince of Matsmai, 
 the Commodore, finding that no final arrangements 
 could be made in regard to the limits and other de- 
 tails regulating the opening of Hakodadi to Ameri- 
 can intercourse, found it necessary to defer all further 
 consideration of the subject until his return to Simoda. 
 Just, however, as the squadron was about to sail, a 
 Japanese functionary arrived from the court at Yedo, 
 but as he did not seem to be fully authorized to act, 
 his visit was received and considered as one purely 
 of ceremony. 
 
CHAPTEE XT. 
 
 Befoke parting with the Japanese oflScials at Ha- 
 kodadi, the Commodore took occasion, while express- 
 ing his gratification at the general kindness and cour- 
 tesy of the authorities and people, to remark, that the 
 inhabitants still seemed suspicious of the Americans, 
 as they continued to shut their houses and remove the 
 women from observation. To this the deputies re- 
 turned a written reply, which, as it presents a docu- 
 ment singularly characteristic of the gentle, concilia- 
 tory tone of the Japanese, and of their ingenuity in 
 self-justification, is given at length : 
 
 " To hear from the Commodore that, since his 
 arrival in Hakodadi, he has been much pleased with 
 his intercourse and communications with the local 
 authorities, is truly a great gratification to us. "With 
 regard to going through the- streets, and seeing shops 
 and houses shut, with neither women nor children in 
 the ways, let it be here observed, that at Toku-hama 
 this very matter was plainly spoken of by Moryama, 
 the interpreter, at that place. The customs of our 
 country are unlike yours, and the people have been 
 unused to see people from foreign lands ; and though 
 
A JAPANESE DOCUMENT. 341 
 
 the authorities did what they could to pacify them, 
 and teach them better, they still were disinclined to 
 believe, and many absconded or hid themselves. If 
 the Commodore will recall to mind the day when he 
 took a ramble to Yoku-hama, in which some of us 
 accompanied him, he will recollect that in the villages 
 and houses we hardly saw one woman during the 
 whole walk. If he saw more of them at Simoda, as 
 he went about, it was because there the people were 
 gradually accustomed to the Americans, and their 
 fears had been allayed, so that they felt no dread. 
 
 " On these remote frontiers, Inany miles from 
 Tedo, the usages of the people are so fixed that they 
 are not easily influenced and altered ; but, pray, how 
 can the inhabitants here think of regarding Americans 
 with inimical feelings ? Even when they see their 
 own officers, with the persons of whom they are not 
 familiar, they also run aside, and, as from fear, seek 
 to escape us. This is the custom of our country that 
 officers should accompany visitors about — a custom 
 not to be so soon changed. Still, the disposition of the 
 men here is ingenuous, brave, upright, and good, and 
 that of the women retiring and modest, not gazing at 
 men as if without bashfulness. Such characteristics 
 and such usages must be considered as estimable, 
 and we think that you also will not dislike them. 
 
 " In general, when upright, cordial propriety 
 marks intercourse, then peace, good feeling, and har- 
 mony are real between the parties ; but if harshness, 
 violence, and grasping characterize it, then hate and 
 distrust with collision arise, and love will not be found 
 to bring the hearts of the people together. This is a 
 
342 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN 
 
 rule of heaven, concerning which no one can have 
 any doubt." 
 
 After a farewell visit of ceremony on shore, and 
 an interchange of courtesies and presents (among 
 which was a block of granite for the "Washington 
 monument), the Powhatan and Mississippi, which 
 were the only vessels of the squadron left, took their 
 departure for Simoda on the 3d of June, 1854. The 
 steamers, however, had hardly got under way at early 
 sunrise, when they were obliged to anchor again at 
 the mouth of the bay, in consequence of a dense fog. 
 As the day advanced the fog was dissipated, and the 
 two steamers, weighing again, got clear of the straits 
 before night. 
 
 On the fifth day out, the smoke of the volcano of 
 Oho-sima was discovered in the distance, and the land 
 was soon distinctly made ; but the weather becoming 
 very thick from the rain and mist, it was found neces- 
 sary to put the ships' heads off shore, and continue 
 under low steam during the night. The fog contin- 
 uing while the ships were among the islands in the 
 Gulf of Yedo, caused a delay of full twenty-four 
 hours, and they consequently did not arrive at Si- 
 moda until the 7th of June, which, however, was one 
 day before the time appointed for a meeting of the 
 Commodore with the commissioners, l^othing of 
 especial interest occurred during the passage. A 
 very large number of whales were observed, and the 
 strong eastward current was remarked as before. 
 
 At noon, the Powhatan, passing Yandalia bluff at 
 the entrance of Simoda harbor, ran in and came to 
 anchor in her former berth, followed by her consort 
 
LANDING AT SIMODA. 343 
 
 the Mississippi. The storeship Supply was found at 
 anchor in the harbor. Shortly after anchoring, some 
 of the Japanese officers came on board the flag-ship, 
 and cordially welcoming the Commodore on his re- 
 turn to Simoda, informed him that the commissioners 
 had arrived from Yedo with an addition of two to 
 their number. As the Commodore was very desirous 
 of completing his business with those functionaries, 
 who, judging from past experience, would probably 
 be somewhat slow in all their movements, he sent his 
 flag-lieutenant on shore to propose an immediate in- 
 terview. It was ascertained by this officer that the 
 commissioners were out of town, but very soon after 
 a message arrived, to the effect that they would re- 
 turn at once, and be in readiness to meet the Commo- 
 dore the next day at noon. 
 
 The Commodore landed with a suitable escort on 
 the next day, and was received at the temple by the 
 commissioners, with the usual formal compliments. 
 The two new members of the commission were pre- 
 sented by their names and titles as Tzudsuki, Suraga- 
 no-kami, (prince of Suraga,) and Take-no-uchisetaro, 
 comptroller of the revenues : the chief commissioner 
 then stated that Simoda had been made an imperial 
 city, and that Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki, and Tzud- 
 suki had been appointed its governors, with Kura- 
 kawa-kahei and Ise-sin-toheiro as lieutenant-gover- 
 nors. In consequence of this new organization, the 
 commissioners declared that it would be necessary to 
 establish certain boundaries to the city by meapis of 
 walls and gates, in order to deflne the limits of the 
 imperial jurisdiction ; and asked whether the Commo- 
 
344 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 dore would object to the erection of such, with the 
 understanding that the Americans should have the 
 privilege of going where and when they pleased 
 within them, and beyond them, on aski/ng permission, 
 which permission would always readily be granted. 
 The Commodore replied that he had no desire to in- 
 terfere with any plans of the government, provided 
 they did not violate the stipulations of the treaty ; 
 and, reminding them that the Americans had a per- 
 fect right, guaranteed to them by that document, of 
 moving unmolested within the limits of seven li or ri, 
 said that, of course, he would leave what was beyond 
 that distance to be governed by their own regula* 
 tions.* It was then mutually agreed that three Ame- 
 rican officers should accompany the Japanese officers 
 appointed to affix the boundaries, and regulate the 
 erection of the walls and gates at Simoda. The Com- 
 modore, however, positively refused to consent that 
 Americans should ask any permission of the Japanese 
 officers, or of any one else, to go anywhere within 
 the limits of the seven ri fixed by the treaty, they, 
 of course, conducting themselves properly and 
 peaceably. 
 
 The great discussion, however, was concerning the 
 boundaries within which our countrymen might go at 
 Hakodadi. These had not yet been settled at all. 
 The Japanese wished to confine the Americans within 
 the city itself ; but as the Commodore protested most 
 
 * A n is equal to 2 j4U English statute miles ; 6 feet is equal to 
 1 ken ; 60 kens make 1 ohoo ; 36 ohoos make 1 ri. The fans of the 
 Japanese are of uniform size, six of them making five English feet. 
 They are used as measures, recognized by the laws. 
 
JAPANESE COAL, 345 
 
 strongly against this, the subject was postponed for 
 future consideration. 
 
 Another conference took place on the succeeding 
 day, but without any definite result in regard to the 
 limits at Hakodadi, although the question was dis- 
 cussed for several hours. An attempt was made by 
 the commissioners to obtain the consent of the Com- 
 modore to a regulation prohibiting the Americans 
 from remaining on shore after sunset, which was posi- 
 tively refused. Two (the newly appointed commis- 
 sioners) had been chosen expressly to settle the ques- 
 tion in regard to the comparative value of the Ja- 
 panese and United States currencies, and Pursers 
 Speiden and Eldridge were selected by the Commo- 
 dore to confer with them on that subject. An im- 
 portant result ensued, embodied in. an interesting and 
 valuable report made by those gentlemen to the Com- 
 modore. 
 
 After a succession of daily conferences, which con- 
 tinued from the 8 th to the 17th of June, a mutual 
 agreement* was finally adjusted on the latter day, in 
 regard to the various disputed points of detail not 
 specified in the treaty. 
 
 The Japanese authorities had, in accordance with 
 their agreement, supplied the steamers at Simoda 
 with some of their native coal. It had been brought 
 from the mines, at considerable trouble and expense, 
 in hampers made of rice-straw. Notwithstanding the 
 country is said to produce large quantities of this 
 mineral, and the people are reported to have been 
 long familiar with its uses, the coal they supplied ap- 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
 15* 
 
346 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 peared to be surface coal, and to have been obtained 
 from mines wbich bad not been opened tboroughly 
 and worked. On being tried on board tJie steamers, 
 the engineers reported that it was of a quality so in- 
 ferior that they were unable to keep up steam with it. 
 
 Whether the shrewd Japanese supplied an infe- 
 rior quality to deceive their visitors, or whether from 
 ignorance of the article and want of mining skiU they 
 innocently brought that which was inferior, cannot be 
 certainly decided ; but as good coal certainly exists 
 in Japan, and as the natives not only use it, but, ac- 
 cording to Yon Siebold, know very well how to mine 
 it, the probabilities are that they purposely furnished 
 the poorest samples. When the Preble was at Na- 
 gasaki, and they saw the armorer on board at work 
 at his forge, they pretended that they did not know 
 what coal was, and actually took a piece on shore as 
 a curiosity, expressing, with well feigned astonish- 
 ment, their surprise at seeing a " stone" that would 
 bum. The coal that was obtained was charged at 
 the enormous rate of about $28 per ton ; but the Ja- 
 panese stated that the price would be probably much 
 reduced as the demand for it increased, and their fa- 
 cilities for obtaining it improved. 
 
 The Commodore now prepared for his final de- 
 parture, and accordingly was desirous of settling the 
 accounts of the ships with the local authorities. Pro- 
 per officers were accordingly sent on shore to receive 
 from the governor a statement, with the prices of the 
 various articles with which the squadron had been 
 furnished. 
 
 Among other accounts was a bill for spars, which 
 
SHAEP DEALING. 347 
 
 had been ordered previous to leaving for Halcodadi ; 
 but upon investigation it vras found that, although 
 charged, they had not yet been prepared or delivered, 
 and that even the trees from which they were to be 
 niade had not yet been cut down. The bazaar had 
 also been opened for several days, and was supplied 
 with the various articles of Japanese manufactire 
 which the Americans desired to purchase and take 
 home as memorials of the expedition. The prices 
 charged, however, were so exorbitant that the Com- 
 modore was obliged to protest against the conduct of 
 the authorities in this respect, and to rebuke them for 
 the neglect, not to call it by a harsher term, in not 
 having the spars ready, although they had been 
 charged for as if furnished. 
 
 The protest and complaints, of the Commodore 
 having been laid before the governor. Prince Agawa, 
 that functionary sent Moryama Yenoske, the inter- 
 preter, on board the flag-ship, with a respectful re- 
 joinder, to the eflfect that the prices of articles offered 
 for sale in the bazaar had been arranged at Yedo, and 
 that they were not above the usual market valuation. 
 It was then explained by the flag-lieutenant that, al- 
 though the prices in Chinese " cash " might not ap- 
 pear exorbitant to the Japanese, yet that they were 
 really so to the Americans, who were obliged to pay 
 in dollars at a depreciation much below their value. 
 Moryama Yenoske explained the affair of the spars, 
 by declaring that he was responsible for what he was 
 pleased to term the error, as he supposed that all the 
 Commodore had asked for was the cost of spare, and 
 did not understand that an order had been given for 
 a supply of them. 
 
348 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Subsequently, the Commodore and some of his 
 officers went on shore and partook of a handsome col- 
 lation, at the earnest solicitation of the commissioners, 
 Avho, on the occasion, made an ample apology for the 
 various errors and misunderstandings which had in- 
 terrupted the friendly intercourse between the Ame- 
 ricans and the authorities. The Commodore ex- 
 plained that it was a principle he had been contend- 
 ing for, and not the comparatively unimportant con- 
 sideration of a few hundred dollars, more or less, as 
 his government had placed ample means in his hands, 
 and he was disposed to pay liberally for all he bought ; 
 but neither the United States nor he were at all will- 
 ing to be imposed upon. Moryama Tenoske, who 
 was always the most active of all the oflScials, and 
 was now the chief spokesman, said that the Ameri- 
 cans might purchase any articles they pleased at their 
 own valuation. This offer was of course rejected : 
 and Yenoske then assumed, in behalf of himself and 
 his fellow-interpreter Tatsnoske, the whole blame, not 
 only in regard to the spars, but the exorbitant prices 
 and all the other wrongs which had given rise to com- 
 plaint. Indeed, these two worthy gentlemen seemed 
 to be convenient mediums through which their supe- 
 riors might render a vicarious expiation for their 
 offences. They were ever ready to shoulder all the 
 responsibility for anything wrong. Yenoske, how- 
 ever, was very civilly told that although the Commo- 
 dore could appreciate the self-sacrificing devotion 
 with which he shouldered all the blame, yet that it 
 was not a victim that was sought, but merely a cor- 
 rection of certain evil practices which, if not checked 
 
JAPAJSTESE DOGS. 349 
 
 in tlie beginning, might lead to disaffection and serious 
 quarrel. 
 
 A perfect reconciliation then ensued, which was 
 appropriately sealed by a present from the commis- 
 sioners of a block of stone for the Washington monu- 
 ment, which was to be carried to the United States 
 as a tribute from Japan to the memory of the great 
 father of our republic. Nothing afterwards occurred 
 to interrupt friendly relations, and frequent inter- 
 course, which grew more and more intimate as the 
 day of departure approached, took place with all 
 classes on shore. Handsome presents were ex- 
 changed, and some choice articles of Japanese manu- 
 facture were received from the authorities as gifts for 
 the President and for the officers of the ships. Among 
 the gifts were three Japanese dogs, sent to the Presi- 
 dent. These were of the small spaniel breed, very 
 highly esteemed in Japan, and purchasable only at a 
 very large price. The Commodore succeeded in 
 bringing them to the United States, and they now 
 thrive at Washington. The Commodore obtained two 
 for himself, one only of which reached the United 
 States. 
 
 A few days previous to the departure of the Com- 
 modore, Moryama Yenoske, in company with several 
 other officials, came on board the Powhatan to re- 
 quest that the Japanese " Sam Patch " should be al- 
 lowed to remain in Japan. They were told that the 
 Commodore had no objection whatever to the man's 
 remaining, if he wislied ; but that it must be by his 
 own free will, and that the commissioners must give 
 a written pledge that the man should not, in any way, 
 
350 
 
 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Yedo atd Simoda dogs presented to Commodore M. C. Perry by the Japanese 
 Commissioners. 
 
 be puuislied for his absence from Japan. Moreover, 
 as he had suffered shipwreck, and had been thrown, 
 by God's providence, on American protection, and 
 had entered on board an American ship by his own 
 choice, he was entitled to all the protection and secu- 
 rity of an American citizen ; consequently the Com- 
 modore could allow of no coercion being resorted to 
 to make the man remain in Japan. The Japanese 
 officials ridiculed the idea of his suflfering any harm 
 or hurt by his remaining in Japan, and said that the 
 commissioners would cheerfully give any guarantee 
 required that he should in no way he molested, but 
 be allowed at once to return to his friends, who were 
 
SAM patch's prospects. 351 
 
 very anxious to see him. Sam was now called up, 
 but all the eloquence and persuasiveness of the Ja- 
 panese were insufficient to induce him to leave the 
 ship. 
 
 Sam had taken his place as one of the crew, and 
 had won the good will of his shipmates generally by 
 his good nature. All pitied his misfortunes, and one 
 of the marines named Goble, a religious man, had 
 taken a special interest in him ; finding in his docility 
 and intelligence promise of good fruit from a properly 
 directed religious training, Goble had begun with him 
 a system of instruction which he hoped would not 
 only make the Japanese a fair English scholar, but a 
 faithful Christian. Sam came to the United States in 
 the Mississippi, and accompanied his benevolent ship- 
 mate and devoted teacher to his home in the intei'ior 
 of New York, where Goble has property. At the 
 last accoiints they were living there together, and it 
 is not unreasonable to hope that Sam, with the edu- 
 cation of his faithful American friend, may be an in- 
 strument, in the event of his return to Japan, under 
 a further development of our relations with that Em- 
 pire, of aiding in the introduction of a higher and 
 better civilization into his own country. 
 
 It will be recollected that, of the several Japanese 
 who had been picked up on the coast of California 
 and taken to Shanghai, with a view of restoring them 
 to their own country, Sam Patch was the only one 
 who accompanied the expedition to Japan. The rest 
 were all afraid to go, and Sam went with fear and trem- 
 bling. On the return of the Mississippi to China, on 
 her way home, another of the Japanese expressed a 
 
352 EXPEDrnoir to japan, 
 
 wish to visit the United States, and was gratified in 
 his desire. His Japfanese name is something like 
 Dans-Kevitoh ; but the sailors, with their usual fond- 
 ness for christening those adopted into their roving 
 family, soon called him Dan-Ketch. Dan is under 
 the protection of the Commodore, and evinces great 
 intelligence, with an eager desire for knowledge. 
 Should he ever return to Japan, as at present he pur- 
 poses, after learning more about us, he will doubtless 
 carry home with him no small amount of information 
 about our country. 
 
 The Commodore now transferred his broad pen- 
 nant from the Powhatan back to the Mississippi, and 
 the two steamers got under way and moved down to 
 the outer roads of Simoda, where they anchored pre- 
 paratory to their final departure. Moryama Yenoske, 
 in company with some of the other officials, paid a 
 farewell visit to the Commodore on that day, bring- 
 ing with him the closing accounts of the ships, and 
 some specimens of natural history as presents. A 
 handsome entertainment was spread before the visi- 
 tors in the cabin, and in the course of the friendly 
 conversation around the table, a Japanese piclure, 
 representing the punishment of crucifixion, was shown 
 to Yenoske. This had been purchased at Simoda, by 
 some of our officers, and its presence turned the con- 
 versation on the subject of capital punishments in 
 Japan. The Commodore was glad of the opportunity 
 to procure accurate information on this point, inas- 
 much as some writers, later than Ksempfer, have de- 
 nied his statement that crucifixion, is a Japanese mode 
 of execution. Yenoske said that the picture itself 
 
CEUCmXION AND SUICIDE. 353 
 
 was illustrative merely of a scene in one of their 
 popular farces ; but, he added, that regicides were 
 executed somewhat in the manner represented in the 
 picture, being first nailed to a cross and then trans- 
 fixed with a spear. In the picture the man was merely 
 tied to the cross. Decapitation, however, he said, was 
 the usual mode of capital punishment for murderers, 
 but never strangulation or hanging. Upon Yenoske 
 being asked if the practice of the Hari-kari or " Hap- 
 py dispatch" still prevailed, he replied that one of 
 his fellow interpreters had committed suicide in that 
 way, in his presence, while at ISTagasaki. The Com- 
 modore then inquired if it were true that the governor 
 of Nagasaki had destroyed himself, after the visit of 
 Captain Fellow in 1808 ; and Yenoske declared that 
 not only the governor had done so, but that two other 
 high officers and ten subordinates had followed his 
 example. The Japanese, after a prolonged conviviali- 
 ty, took their farewell of the Americans, with many 
 expressions of warm attachment to their visitors, and 
 pulled off for the land. 
 
 The ships were now all in readiness for departure. 
 The Southampton, which had arrived from Yolcano 
 Bay on the 10th of June, and had discharged her 
 cargo of coal into the steamers, the Macedonian, 
 vhich reached Simoda on the eleventh, and the store- 
 ship Supply that had been stationary in that port for 
 several months, with the Mississippi, now the flag-ship, 
 and the Powhatan, composed the whole squadron, and 
 were anchored in the outer bay, preparatory to sailing 
 for their respective destinations. Arrangements had 
 been made to carry out the regulations agreed to with 
 
354; EXPEDITION TO JAPAiT. 
 
 the authorities in regard to the appointment of a har- 
 bor-master and three pilots, and these now, at the last 
 moment, were completed by the signature of Kura- 
 kawa-kahei, the deputy-governor, to a written con- 
 tract, copies of which were made in English and 
 Dutch, and deposited with the Japanese officials at 
 Simoda. The harbor-master and the pilots, after hav- 
 ing been selected by the local authorities, were 
 brought to the Commodore for his confirmation of their 
 appointment. The Commodore, having signified his 
 approval of the choice, gave to the harbor-master a 
 spy-glass, to be kept always at the look-out place and 
 to pass to his successor in office ; to each of the pilots 
 a comfortable overcoat, and two American ensigns, 
 to be displayed on board the pilot-boats when going 
 to any vessels that may appear off the harbor. The 
 surveyors had marked the rocks, buoys, and promi- 
 nent headlands with signal flags, but as the Japanese 
 authorities objected to them as seeming to imply some 
 evidence of right to possession, it was readily conceded 
 tliat the Japanese should substitute for them their 
 little white and black striped flags. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th of June, 1854, the 
 whole squadron got under way ; but the wind shifting 
 to the southward, the Macedonian and Supply were 
 obliged to anchor again. The Commodore, accord- 
 ingly, ordered these vessels to warp into a safe berth, 
 and sail when the wind and weather should permit, 
 and to keep company, if possible, to Kelung, in For- 
 mosa, where they were bound. There seemed no oc- 
 casion to wait for them, as their destination was 
 different, and any further delay on the part of the 
 
DEPAJITUEE FROM 8IM0DA. 355 
 
 steamers would only result in an unnecessary consump~ 
 tion of coal ; so the Mississippi and the Powhatan, 
 with the Southampton in tow, stood out to sea, and 
 shaped a course to the southward and westward. 
 
 In passing out beyond Rock Island a high sea was 
 encountered, which gave additional proof that the 
 outer as well as the inner harbor of Simoda is per- 
 fectly safe ; the violence of the sea being in a con- 
 siderable degree broken by the ledge of rocks ex- 
 tending, though not continuously, from Kock Island 
 to Cape Idzu. 
 
 After leaving Simoda, the Commodore directed 
 the steamers to be steered to the southward, in order 
 to obtain another observation of the Kedfield rocks, 
 discovered on the passage during the previous month 
 of February. On coming up with them it was found 
 that their positions had been very correctly established 
 by former notes, but care was taken to verify these by 
 fresh observations. From the Redfield rocks a course 
 was made for the northeast end of Oho-sima, the island 
 claimed to have been discovered by Commander 
 Glynn. On the previous passage to Japan, the west- 
 ern shore of Oho-sima and the adjacent islands had 
 been carefully observed. It was now determined to 
 examine very closely the eastern coast, and, conse- 
 q^uently, in the morning of the 29th of June, the 
 northern point of Oho-sima was made with this view. 
 It was found that this part of the island bore N. 82° 
 "W"., and that the bearings, therefore, on the chart were 
 erroneous. The steamers continuing their course, 
 passed between Oho-sima and Kikai-sima, or Bunga- 
 low Island, and traversed the eastern coast of tlie 
 
356 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 former so closely, that all its sinuosities, bays, and in- 
 lets, could be marked with much accuracy. Having 
 at meridian obtained excellent observations of latitude 
 and longitude, as the result of the notes of the three 
 ships, it was practicable to determine the positions of 
 the most prominent headlands by a series of angles 
 deduced from these observations. 
 
 After the meridian observations had been calcu- 
 lated. Commodore Perry despatched two of the boats 
 of the Mississippi, in charge of Lieutenants Maury 
 and Webb, to visit a little bay of the island of Oho- 
 sima, about two miles distant abreast the ships. These 
 officers landed, and found only a small hamlet, and a 
 squad of miserably clad natives drawn up on shore to 
 meet them, armed with clubs, stones, and one old 
 firelock. The inhabitants, however, notwithstanding 
 their warlike aspect, were very civil, and gave, in ex- 
 change for bread and pork, some fowls and vegetables. 
 A few botanical specimens were also obtained, but 
 there was no time, or, what is even more important, 
 no coal to spare for any lengthened exploration. This 
 was probably-the first time a Christian had ever landed 
 upon Oho-sima. 
 
 Keeping as near as safety would permit to the chain 
 of islands lying between Oho-sima and Lew Chew, the 
 steamers were steered southward and westward during 
 the night, and at daylight made the northern end of 
 Great Lew Chew and the other islands in the neigh- 
 borhood. On rounding the former a ship was discov- 
 ered, about five miles distant, steering north with a 
 fair wind. As soon, however, as she saw the steamers 
 approaching, she tacked and stood to the southward 
 
ARRIVAL AT NAPHA. 357 
 
 and westward. Tlie Commodore ordered two blank 
 cartridges to be fired as a signal for the ship to heave 
 to. At first she did not seem inclined to do so, but 
 finding that the squadron was closing in upon her 
 very fast, she tacked again, and running down towards 
 the steamers, she finally hove to. The flag-lieutenant 
 then boarded in a boat from the Mississippi, and 
 learned that the vessel was an English ship from 
 Shanghai bound to England. The captain explained 
 the cause of his suspicious movements by saying that, 
 having heard of the war with Russia, he had supposed 
 at first that the American ships were the Russian 
 squadron, and was greatly alarmed until he succeeded 
 in making out distinctly the United States colors. He 
 showed his friendly disposition by sending to the 
 Commodore an English paper. 
 
 Within ten miles of Napha, and as night ap- 
 proached, it became so dark that it was deemed im- 
 prudent to enter the harbor, and the vessels were 
 accordingly kept merely under steerage-way until 
 daylight, when the Powhatan cast off" the Southamp- 
 ton, which had orders to proceed direct to Hong 
 Kong. Both steamers then entered the port of Na- 
 pha, and came to anchor on the 1st of July, 1854. 
 The steamship Lexington was found in the harbor, 
 where she had arrived in the month of May. Her 
 commander had a serious occurrence to report. 
 
 It appeared that on the 12th of June three Ameri- 
 can sailors, belonging to the Lexington, passing 
 through the streets of Naj)ha, forcibly entered the 
 house of an inhabitant, and taking some sakee, be- 
 came intoxicated, and sallied out. One of the three 
 
358 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 then clambering over a wall, entered a private house, 
 where he found a woman named Mila and her niece, 
 a young girl. He brandished his knife, threatened 
 the woman, and attempted the foulest outrage. Her 
 cries brought some Lew Chew men to the house, who, 
 becoming witnesses of the sailor's purpose, seized and 
 threw him to the ground. The drunken sailor now 
 rose and fled to the shore, seeking to escape. A 
 crowd of natives soon gathering, pursued the fugitive, 
 throwing stones at him as he fled, and as the Lew 
 Chewans averred, in his drunkenness he tumbled into 
 the water and was drowned. 
 
 The Commodore determined that the case should 
 be strictly investigated, and accordingly made a per- 
 emptory demand upon the regent to cause a trial to 
 be instituted according to the laws of Lew Chew. 
 The demand was at once complied with, and the court 
 was summoned. The flag-lieutenant and the inter- 
 preter of the squadron were selected by the Commo- 
 dore to attend the trial, in accordance with the request 
 of the Lew Chew authorities. 
 
 At the head of the room where the court was 
 held, sat the regent and treasurer, while the American 
 officers were placed in seats opposite to them. On 
 their left three of the six native judges crouched on 
 mats, while the others took their positions by the two 
 Japanese dignitaries. The prisoner faced the court, 
 kneeling on the ground outside, his head just above 
 the raised floor of the hall, which was open to the front. 
 His elbows were tied together behind his back, and if 
 he were at all stubborn in answering the repeated 
 questions of the judges, the two guards who stood by 
 
A LEW CHEWAN TEIAl. 359 
 
 punched him severely in the ribs with large sticks, 
 about two inches in thickness and four feet in length. 
 These never failed to loosen the fellow's tongue, but 
 whether they impressed him with the necessity of 
 telling the truth is doubtful. 
 
 The Lew Chewan judges having declared that it was 
 " altogether illegal to throw stones and wound persons, 
 causing them thereby to fall into the water and be 
 drowned," convicted six persons, one as principal and 
 the others as accessories. After the conviction, the 
 regent and first treasurer came on board the Mississippi 
 with the ringleader bound, and desired to deliver him 
 to the Commodore, to be dealt with according to the 
 laws of the United States. The Commodore, however, 
 declined to receive him. The prisoners were finally 
 disposed of by the banishment of the principal from the 
 island for life, and of the accessories for a limited time. 
 
 The two surviving Americans of those engaged in 
 the outrage were now tried by a court-martial, and 
 punished in accordance with naval discipline. After 
 this troublesome afi'air was settled, the old courtesies 
 were renewed with the authorities, and several con- 
 ferences took place, in the course of which a 
 treaty* between the government of Lew Chew and 
 the United States was agreed upon. In the rough 
 draft drawn up by the Americans, the preamble re- 
 cognized Lew Chew as an independent nation. This, 
 upon its being submitted to the regent, was objected 
 to, as he said, that such an passumtion on the part of 
 the island, would get the authorities into trouble with 
 China, to which country they owed allegiance. 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
360 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 On the day (12th July, 1854) after the signing of 
 the treaty, the regent Bent the Commodore a large 
 bell as a present for himself ; whether this was of 
 Lew Chew casting is not known, but wherever made, 
 it was a creditable specimen of manufacture. "While 
 the ships continued to lie at anchor in the bay, a na- 
 tive of Japan, who happened to be in Lew Chew, 
 swam from the shore, with a bundle of clothing, to 
 the Lexington and begged to be carried to the United 
 States. He was then sent to the flag-ship, where the 
 Commodore refused to receive him, on the same 
 ground that he had objected to take away the two 
 Japanese from Simoda. 
 
 On the 17th of July, 1854, the Commodore sailed 
 in the Mississippi for Hong Kong, in company with 
 the Powhatan, the Lexington having been despatched 
 two days previously to the same place. It was a 
 source, doubtless, of no little gratification to the Lew 
 Chewans, whatever may have been their feelings at 
 the departure of the Americans themselves, that the 
 steamers had carried off Dr. Bettelheim, who seemed 
 to be the Mte noir of the authorities, who had con- 
 stantly importuned* the Commodore to take him 
 
 • From the authorities of Lew Chew to Commodore Perry : 
 
 A prepared statement. Sho Fu-fing, general superintendent of 
 affairs in the kingdom of Lew Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer- at Shui, 
 earnestly beg your excellency's kind consideration of some circumstances ; 
 and that, to show compassion on our little country, you will take away 
 hack to their own land Bettelheim and Moreton, who have remained here 
 lon£r. ♦♦♦* ^fc*^(t^ 
 
 In the years 1844 and 1846 some French officers came, and the Eng- 
 lishman Bettelheim also brought hither his wife and children to reside, 
 and they all required something to be daily given to them, to our con- 
 
COMMODORE HATJLB DOWU HIS FLAG. 361 
 
 away. They seemed, in fact, to have a strong objec- 
 tion to missionaries in general, and were equally anx- 
 ious to get rid of Dr. Bettelheim's successor, a Eer. 
 Mr. Moreton, from England. 
 
 The steamers arrived after a short passage at Hong 
 Kong, where the Commodore, having received de- 
 spatches from his government giving him leave to 
 return hom.e, made over the command of the squadron 
 to Captain Abbot. He then returned to the United 
 States by the Overland route from India, and arrived 
 in New York on the 12th January, 1856, having been 
 absent two years and two months. 
 
 On the 23d of April, 1855, the Mississippi reached 
 the Navy Yard, at Brooklyn, and on the next day 
 Commodore Perry, going on board, hauled down his 
 flag. 
 
 tinnal annoyance and trouble. Whenever an English or a French ship 
 came in, we earnestly represented these circumstances to them, and be- 
 sought them to take these people away with them. The Frenchmen, 
 knowing our distresses, went away in the year 1848 to their own coun- 
 try, and have not hitherto returned ; but Bettelheim has loitered away 
 years here and not gone, and now further, has brought Moreton with his 
 family to take his place, and live here, greatly to the discomfort of the 
 people, and distress and inconvenience of the country. 
 
 We have learned that your excellency has authority over all the East 
 Indian, China, and Japan seas, and not a ship of any western country 
 can go from one of these seas to the other but you know and regulate 
 its movements. Wherefore we lay before you our sad condition in all its 
 particulars, humbly beseeching your kind regard upon it, and requesting 
 that, when your fine ships shall return, you will take both Bettelheim 
 and Moreton away with you. This wiU solace and raise us up from our 
 low condition, and oblige us in a way not easy to be expressed. We 
 wish your life maybe prolonged to a thousand autunms, in the enjoyment 
 of the highest felicity. 
 
 JcxT 10, 1854. 
 
 16 
 
CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 As some of the ships of the squadron were engaged 
 in other duties not directly connected with the main 
 purpose of the expedition to Japan, it has been thought 
 better to defer a record of their movements to a clos- 
 ing chapter. 
 
 While at Hakodadi, the Commodore had de- 
 spatched, on May 20th, 1854, the Southampton to 
 make a survey of Volcano Bay, including Ender- 
 mo Harbor, distant about seventy miles from Hako- 
 dadi, and situated at the south-eastern end of Tesso. 
 
 The ship arrived off the southern promontory of 
 Volcano Bay at five o'clock on the afternoon of the 
 day of her departure. The wind soon lulled to a 
 dead calm, and the bay was not entered until the 
 next morning. The weather being very thick, the 
 ship bore away for the harbor of Endermo, and short- 
 ly after noon, made the land ahead, which, being ap- 
 proached to within two miles, was coasted in ten 
 fathoms of water, taking care to keep off when shoal- 
 ing in that depth. The fog was so thick, and the 
 breakers were so far off the shore, that it was not 
 deemed prudent to approach too neai* the land ; and, 
 
SURVEY OF VOLCANO BAT. 363 
 
 consequently, the entrance to the harbor of Endermo, 
 ■which is quite narrow and shut in by adjacent points, 
 could not be seen. Its position, however, having been 
 passed, the ship, continuing to run along the land 
 by the lead until seven o'clock in the evening, came 
 then to anchor in front of a small village. As the 
 night advanced, the atmosphere cleared, for a moment, 
 sufficiently to allow of the sight of several junks an- 
 chored near a large town about three miles distant. 
 The fog soon gathered again, and continued so thick 
 all the rest of that night and the next day, with fresh 
 breezes from E. S. E., that it was deemed more pru- 
 dent to remain at anchor, and the ship did not again 
 ge,t under way until the 27th of May. 
 
 At sunrise on that day, the fog having partly dis- 
 persed, the Southampton stood for the eastern coast, 
 sounding with a boat in five fathoms, to within a 
 mile and a half of the shore, and also running a line 
 of soundings in the ship. As the morning advanced 
 the fog cleared off, and revealed to view a charming 
 scene of picturesque beauty. The land rose from the 
 sandy beach in undulating heights, covered with trees 
 of dark green foliage, interspersed here and there 
 with yellow spots of culture, while innumerable 
 houses were seen every where grouped at the open- 
 ings of the ravines toward the sea, into which streams 
 of fresh water poured, after irrigating the cultivated 
 fields on the hillsides and the fertile bottoms of the 
 valleys, and passing through the villages. 
 
 The meridian observation having been taken, 
 which gave the latitude 42° 17', the ship, heading 
 east, made for an indentation in the land, supposed to 
 
364 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 be the entrance to the harbor of Yolcano Bay, and 
 with a depth of water of seventeen fathoms and a fair 
 wind, before which she was going at nine knots, the 
 whole circuit of the large bay soon opened to the 
 sight. An amphitheatre of lofty mountains, with 
 summits covered with snow, surrounded the land, 
 which gradually lessened in height as it descended 
 toward the hills and uplands that rose immediately 
 from the shore. To the north-east were two volcanoes 
 in active eruption, throwing out convulsively their 
 thick smoke, which, as it swept before the breeze, 
 darkened with its passing but ever recurring shadow 
 the snow which glittered like silver upon the sunlit 
 summits of the neighboring mountains. 
 
 Passing a small island, called Olason, from one of 
 Captain Broughton's men who was buried there, the 
 Southampton stood up the channel of Endermo, and 
 anchored in the evening near the land, where a few 
 houses, a fortification upon an adjacent hill, and some 
 sheds upon the shore, indicated a settlement. Soon 
 two oflBcials came off in a boat, rowed by a number 
 of Indians, the native ainos^ as they are called, and 
 upon reaching the ship the Japanese functionaries 
 produced a bit of paper in which was wrapped some 
 rice and a piece of wood, and displaying the contents, 
 pointing at the same time to some water, asked by 
 signs if either of these were required. The chief dig- 
 nitary, who, in addition to the usual Japanese oflBcial 
 costume, wore an outside coat with a red collar and 
 a great deal of embroidery, and seemed to be a mili- 
 tary personage, was not apparently disposed to be 
 very friendly toward his visitors. Upon his being 
 
AIN08. 365 
 
 made to understand that if any fish, vegetables, eggs, 
 or poultry could be obtained from the land, the Amer- 
 icans would be glad to purchase them, the Japanese 
 officer sent his boat ashore, apparently with the view 
 of ascertaining. Upon its return, the only article 
 brought back was a bundle of stems, looking like 
 those of the rhubarb plant, with the information that, 
 in consequence of the weather, there were no fish, and 
 only three chickens in the place. 
 
 Ifext morning a surveying party commenced their 
 operations in the bay, and continued them during the 
 stay of the ship. Little was to be had from the shore 
 in the way of provisions, but the bay abounded in 
 clams, muscles, and fish, and large supplies were ob- 
 tained. The inhabitants, who were mostly ainos, had 
 been very much alarmed at the arrival of the South- 
 ampton, and were seen hurrying away from the har- 
 bor and village with all their property heaped upon 
 their backs, so that the land was quite deserted. 
 
 These Ainos were of a stature less than that of 
 Europeans, averaging a little over five feet in height, 
 but well proportioned and with intelligent features. 
 Their color was quite dark, and their hair black and 
 coarse, which was clipped behind, but allowed to 
 straggle in thick matted locks down in front, in a con- 
 fused cluster with their long beards, which are never 
 cut or shaven. — ^Their legs were bare of artificial cov- 
 ering, but grown over with a plentiful crop of coarse 
 hair, which, together with the abundant growth on 
 their heads and faces, has given them the name, by 
 which they are better known, of " Hairy Kuriles." 
 Their dress was a coarse and ragged blue undergar- 
 
366 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ment reaching below the knees, over which was 
 thrown carelessly a brown sack with wide sleeves, 
 made of grass or skins. Their dishevelled hair and 
 rude costume gave them a wild look, and they had a 
 dirty poverty-stricken aspect. Their chief occupation 
 is fishing, which they carry on under the eye and for 
 the benefit of their Japanese taskmasters, to whose ab- 
 solute will they are subject. 
 
 The few Japanese officials became gradually more 
 friendly, and frequently visited the ship and partook 
 of its hospitalities. l>fothing occurred of especial in- 
 terest during the visit to Endermo Bay beyond the 
 blazing up one night of another volcano, making three 
 which were seen from the ship in a state of active 
 eruption at the same time. The sudden starting up 
 of a broad and vivid flame from the summit of a 
 mountain in the midst of the night, dispelling at once 
 the darkness which enveloped sea and land, produced 
 a grand effect. The other two volcanoes merely emit- 
 ted smoke, while the third continued in a blaze. 
 
 Lieutenant Boyle, commander of the Southamp- 
 ton, visited Olason island, at the mouth of Endermo 
 Bay, previous to his departure, and found the grave 
 of the buried sailor left there by Captain Broughton. 
 The Japanese authorities had respected the remains, 
 though they had been interred more than three-fourths 
 of a century, and built on the spot where they rested 
 one of the usual tombs of the country, with the ordi- 
 nary marks of mourning. The survey having been 
 completed, the ship sailed to join the squadron at 
 Simoda, pursuant to orders. 
 
VIBIT TO FORMOSA. 367 
 
 On tlie 29tli of June the Macedonian, Captain 
 Abbot, left Simoda in company with the store ship 
 Supply for Formosa. The two vessels parted compa- 
 ny on the second day out, and saw nothing of each 
 other again until their arrival in the harbor of Ke- 
 lung, which the Macedonian, notwithstanding an op- 
 posing current, head winds and stormy weather, 
 reached in twelve days, while the Supply did not 
 arrive until ten days afterward. As the northern end 
 of the island bore in sight, very strong currents were 
 experienced, which were supposed to have been in- 
 creased by the prevalence of stormy weather. 
 
 The principal objects of the visit were to survey 
 the harbor and coasts, to inquire about certain Ame- 
 rican sailors who were supposed to have been ship- 
 wrecked on the island, and to investigate its resourues 
 in regard especially to coal. It was learned very 
 satisfactorily that there were none of our shipwrecked 
 countrymen in Formosa ; although the chief manda- 
 rin of Kelung, as Captain Abbot was about to leave, 
 informed him that he had heard that a ship had been 
 wrecked some six or seven years before on the west- 
 ern side of the island. He moreover stated that the 
 crew had consisted of blacks and whites, the former 
 of whom had remained in the ship ^d gone down 
 with her, while the latter had made their escape in 
 the boat to a neighboring island. 
 
 Captain Abbot was not disposed to believe this 
 story, as it contradicted the more authentic informa- 
 tion he had gathered from other sources, and because 
 there was reason to suspect that the mandarin of Ke- 
 
368 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 lung had his own private objects to serve. The man- 
 darin's troops had lately been defeated in an engage- 
 ment with the rebels, and he was striving to obtain 
 the aid of the Captain, in taking his revenge and 
 driving off the enemy from the western side of the 
 island where they were then collected. He had con- 
 stantly importuned Captain Abbot for his assistance, 
 but without effect, and at last hit upon the expedient 
 of the story of the shipwreck on the western side of 
 the island, where he offered to send some of his war 
 junks, to show the Americans the place ; and prom- 
 ised if they would assist him against the rebels there, 
 he would give them on their return a large ship-load 
 of coal. The mandarin's story and his proffered 
 bribes were alike rejected. 
 
 Coal was found in great abundance and of ex- 
 cellent quality, obtained from mines conveniently 
 situated for easy transportation to vessels in the har- 
 bor. Much of the island appeared to be underlaid 
 with coal, and particularly that part in the neighbor- 
 hood of Kelung. Several tons were purchased, but 
 the Formosans, high and low, were such adepts at a 
 bargain, that our cunning countrymen even had to 
 acknowledge themselves outwitted. 
 
 After remaining until the completion of a thor- 
 ough survey of the harbor and the adjacent coasts, 
 the Macedonian sailed for Manilla on 23d July, leav- 
 ing the Supply to load with the coal purchased at 
 Formosa, whence she was bound to Hong Kong. 
 Soon after getting clear of the northern shores of For- 
 mosa, the Macedonian came within the border of a 
 typhoon, and encountered a succession of heavy tem- 
 
MAEINE VOLCANOES. 369 
 
 pest squalls, witli hard, drenching rains, which " jvere 
 peculiarlj severe and frightful." On this passage 
 the ship suffered more in her sails and rigging than 
 during the whole voyage from the United States. 
 
 The neighborhood of Formosa is remarkable for 
 severe typhoons and other convulsions of nature. 
 Marine volcanoes have been observed on several oc- 
 casions and reported by our officers. It was within 
 ten miles of Formosa that Lieutenant Commanding 
 Boyle, in the store-ship Southampton, when on his 
 way from the United States to join the squadron at 
 Hong Kong, observed one of these extraordinary phe- 
 nomena. " On the 29th of October, 1853, near the 
 island of Formosa," says Captain Boyle, "I discovered 
 a volcano, distant from the land about ten miles, in a 
 violent state of eruption, throwing out columns of 
 vapor to a great height, resembling in appearance a 
 similar phenomenon to which I was witness some 
 years ago on the coast of Sicily ; this, however, was 
 of greater magnitude and force than that, although 
 no lava was visible, by reason of the dense bank of 
 vapor which hung around it. The depth of water 
 here is much greater than on the Sicilian coast, and 
 hence my conclusion as to the cause of not seeing 
 lava. When last seen, at 3 P. M., it was in a lively 
 state of activity, and bore 'N.'N.'W., distant about ten 
 miles. It was in latitude about 24° 'H., and longitude 
 121° 50' E. ; there was no sail in sight. 
 
 " Shortly after passing the neighborhood of the 
 
 volcano, we passed through a very heavy over-fall or 
 
 rip so much so, that the executive officer and others, 
 
 at first, supposed that there were breakers. I had 
 
 16* 
 
370 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 BeerL.8Ucli an appearance before, and decided that it 
 was, wliat it proved to be, an effect of the volcano 
 merely. On arriving, a few days afterwards, at Lew 
 Chew, I found that they bad bad a few shakes. * * * 
 
 " On my discovery of the phenomenon off For- 
 mosa, I had at the mast-bead, in addition to the usual 
 look-out, a seaman, called Gilbert Lee, in whom I 
 had great confidence, who at first thought the ap- 
 pearance was caused by a steamer. One of the petty 
 officers, A. L. Benton, also, took particular notice of 
 it ; several on deck said they did not know what to 
 make of it. As I have before stated, it had the same 
 appearance as when Graham's island rose from the 
 ocean off the coast of Sicily." 
 
 Another officer. Lieutenant Jones, describes a 
 similar phenomenon which occurred in 1850, while 
 he was in command of the U. S. sloop-of-war St. 
 Mary's. "It was in latitude about 20° 66' K," 
 writes Mr. Jones, " and longitude 134° 45' E. We 
 were bound from the Sandwich Islands to Hong Kong. 
 The wind at the time was moderate from the east- 
 ward, and the sea smooth. At about 11 P. M., the 
 ship going seven or eight knots, the wind suddenly 
 died away, the sea became troubled, the air heated, 
 and a sulphurous smell was, to some of the men, very 
 apparent. There were puffs of wind from different 
 quarters, but before the yards could be braced around, 
 it would be calm again. This lasted about twen- 
 ty-five minutes, when the wind came out as before 
 from the eastward, and when I came on deck at 
 midnight, there was nothing unusual in the appear- 
 ance of the weather or sea. My information was 
 
A BOAT ADRIFT, 371 
 
 derived immediately from the officers and men of the 
 watch." 
 
 The visit of the Macedonian to Manilla is asso- 
 ciated with an incident of curious and pathetic 
 interest. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th of August, 1853, in 
 about latitude 18° 46' IT., longitude 124° E., the store- 
 ship Southampton, Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, 
 was steering S."W. by "W., the wind blowing from the 
 northward and westward a fresh top-gallant breeze, 
 with considerable swell, when a boat was discovered 
 to windward. The ship was hove to, and the boat 
 and its contents were taken on board. When hoist- 
 ed in and measured, the craft was found to be twelve 
 feet long, four wide, and seventeen inches deep. 
 On board of the boat, when the ship thus picked 
 her up, were six males, four of whom were adults 
 and two were boys, the one about ten and the other 
 fourteen years of age. They were all of healthy ap- 
 pearance, of medium stature, of a dark color, the 
 hair cut close, not tattooed, and did not appear to 
 be much exhausted. Captain Boyle supposed, from 
 their appearance, that they might have been adrift 
 some two or three days. They had in the boat about 
 two or three dozen ears of Indian corn (maize), a few 
 sweet potatoes, some prepared betel nuts, a cask, two 
 gongs, a fishing net, an axe, a small piece of grass 
 cloth as a sail, and a colored piece supposed to be a 
 flag. Of water they had none ; but from the fre- 
 quent showers encountered by the ship. Captain 
 Boyle concluded they had not suJBFered much from 
 the want of it. 
 
372 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 To what nation or people these poor creatures be- 
 longed no one could tell, as nobody on board could 
 understand their language. It was observed, how- 
 ever, that the word most frequently on their lips was 
 SU-U-ha-'boo. The nearest land to the ship was Cape 
 Engano, the 1^. E. point of Luconia, distant about one 
 hundred miles. The Babuan and Bashee group were 
 about one hundred and eighty miles directly to wind- 
 ward ; and the first conjecture was that possibly they 
 might belong to these. Their dress consisted of wide- 
 legged trowsers extending a little below the knee, 
 with a dark-colored gown enveloping the entire per- 
 son, and secured around the neck by a drawing-string ; 
 their heads they would sometimes bind around with a 
 cotton handkerchief, after a fashion not unlike that 
 used by the blacks of the Southern States. Though 
 seemingly not much exhausted when they were taken 
 on board the sliip, yet they evidently experienced 
 great difficulty in. walking, from their long confine- 
 ment in a cramped position. Sleep, with suitable 
 diet, however, s(ion restored them to their usual 
 condition. 
 
 When the ship came near and passed through the 
 group of islands just named, the commander watched 
 closely to observe if, they showed any mark of recog- 
 nition. Their attention was called to them by signs, 
 and they seemed to understand the pantomimic in- 
 quiry, for they invariably shook their heads as if to 
 imply that their home was not there, and pointing to- 
 wards the eastward, said, " SU-H-ha-hoo." Soon after 
 the ship arrived at Com-sing-moon, in China, and 
 here great pains were taken to discover, if possible, 
 
SIL-LI-BA-BOO. 373 
 
 where these poor adventurers belonged. There were 
 many ships lying there, and the Commodore directed 
 that diligent search should be made among them all, 
 in the hope that, perchance, some one might be found 
 who could communicate with them. They were visited 
 by many from the various vessels, and, from their timi- 
 dity, they fell at first under the suspicion that they 
 were anxious to remain unknown ; but Captain Boyle 
 became quite convinced that their shyness, and re- 
 pugnance to leave the ship, proceeded from fear alone. 
 They were taken on board each of the trading ships 
 at Com-sing-moon, and out of the numerous tongues 
 spoken on board not one was found like that spoken 
 by these men. At length they uttered some words 
 when on the deck of the English ship Bombay, which 
 Captain Jamieson, the commander, thought he re- 
 cognized as belonging to the language of the natives 
 of the Bentinck Isles. On perceiving that their words 
 were attracting notice, they made their usual salaam, 
 and uttering Sil-li-horboo, afterwards held their peace. 
 There is an island called by that name, and mentioned 
 by Horsburg as being in latitude 4° 1^., longitude 
 127° E.j but this is so remote from the epot where 
 they were picked up, some twelve or fifteen hundred 
 miles, that Captain Boyle could not suppose it possi- 
 ble they had drifted such a distance. The wind had, 
 indeed, for several days been strong from the south- 
 ward and eastward, just before the boat was seen, 
 though at the time they were picked up it was from 
 the northward and westward. Ifotwithstanding this, 
 however, it seemed most improbable that in their frail 
 craft they could have floated so many miles. Captain 
 
374: EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 Jamieson and hia crew interested themselves much for 
 these poor creatures, and persevered in their efforts to 
 communicate with them by means of the slight vo- 
 cabulary they had acquired in their voyagings ; and 
 though such communication was very imperfect, of 
 course, yet it was plain some words were understood, 
 and the unfortunate men were evidently pleased, and 
 sought opportunities of mingling with those who could 
 comprehend any portion, however small, of their lan- 
 guage. "With these imperfect means of knowledge, 
 the best account Captain Jamieson could gather from 
 them was, that they did come from Sil-li-ba-boo, dis- 
 tant as it was ; that they left the land in their boat 
 with some articles of food for a vessel in the offing, 
 met a fresh breeze which carried them out to sea, and, 
 by its continuance, prevented their return to land, and 
 that they had been in the boat fifteen days when the 
 Southampton picked them up. 
 
 The chief purpose of the visit of the Macedonian 
 to Manilla was to leave the Sil-li-ba-boos with the 
 governor-general of the Philippines, that they might 
 be protected and sent home. The governor, with 
 many expressions of gratitude for the kindness that 
 and been shown toward these involuntary wanderers, 
 received them ; and we may indulge the hope that, 
 long ere this, they have reached their native island, 
 there to tell to their, wondering countrymen the story 
 of their providential preservation and marvellous ad- 
 ventures. 
 
 On the lYth 6f August, the Macedonian left Ma- 
 nilla for Hong Kong, where she arrived on the 26th. 
 
MISSION OF CAPTAEJ ADAMS. 375 
 
 Commander Adams, it will be remembered, was 
 dispatched borne with a copy of the treaty, on the 
 4th of April, 1854, in the Saratoga. On the 1st of 
 May, he reached Honoluln, and took the first vessel 
 that offered for San Francisco, and, thence, taking the 
 usual route, via Panama, reached the City of "Wash- 
 ington on the 12th of July, thus making the journey 
 from Japan to our seat of government in three months 
 and eight days. The treaty was submitted by the 
 President to the Senate, and was by that body prompt- 
 ly and unanimously ratified ; and on the 30th of Sep- 
 tember Commander Adams left ITew York with the 
 ratified copy for Japan. On reaching England, he 
 took the overland route, and arrived at Hong Kong 
 on the 1st of January, 1855. The Powhatan was or- 
 dered by Commodore Abbot immediately to convey 
 Commander Adams to Simoda, where he arrived on 
 the 26th of January, 1855, with full powers as the 
 representative of the United States to exchange with 
 the Japanese authorities the ratifications of the treaty. 
 The journey back to Simoda occupied three months 
 and twenty-seven days, and the whole time that 
 elapsed between the signing of the treaty and the 
 arrival of it in Japan, duly ratified by the President 
 and Senate, was nine months and twenty-two days. 
 
 On the arrival of Commander Adams at Simoda, 
 he found a great and sad change in the physical as- 
 pects of the place. In the interval during his ab- 
 sence from Japan (on the 23d of December, 1854), 
 an earthquake had occurred which was felt on the 
 whole coast of Japan, doing some injury to the capi- 
 
376 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 tal, Tedo, completely destroying the fine city of Osaca 
 on the south-eastern side of Niphon, and leaving abun- 
 dant evidences of its ruinous effects at Simoda. Every 
 house and public building on the lovr grounds had 
 been destroyed ; a few temples and private edifices 
 that stood on elevated spots, and but sixteen struc- 
 tures in all, were left of what was once Simoda. The 
 inhabitants told Commander Adams that the destruc- 
 tion was not caused by the immediate agitation of the 
 earth, but by the action of the sea which it occasioned, 
 and which regularly followed the shocks. 
 
 According to the statements of the Japanese, the 
 waters in the bay and near the shore were first ob- 
 served to be violently agitated ; they soon began 
 rapidly to retreat, leaving the bottom of the harbor, 
 where usually there were five fathoms of water, near- 
 ly bare. The water then rushed in upon the land in 
 a wave five fathoms above its usual height, and, over- 
 flowing the town up to the tops of the houses, swept 
 every thing away. The frightened inhabitants fled to 
 the hills for safety, but before they could reach their 
 summits they were overtaken by the climbing waters 
 and hundreds were drowned. The waters retreated 
 and returned in this manner five several times, tear- 
 ing down every thing, and strewing the adjacent 
 shores with the wrecks and ruins of houses prostrated 
 and vessels torn from their anchorage. The Russian 
 frigate Diana, bearing the flag of Admiral Pontiatine, 
 was lying in the harbor at the time. The Russian 
 officers told Commander Adams that, when the waters 
 retreated, the mud boiled up from the bottom in a 
 thousand springs. When they came in they were 
 
THE EAETHQTJAKE AT SIMODA. 377 
 
 agitated like a maelstrom, and sucli was their velocity 
 and force that the frigate actually made forty-three 
 complete revolutions in the space of thirty minutes. 
 The officers and crew were made giddy by this rapid 
 turning. Their anchor had been let go in six fathoms ; 
 when the waters retreated they could see it, and had 
 but four feet of water alongside. The ship's rudder, 
 stern-post, and a great part of her keel, were knocked 
 off and lost, and her bottom was very much injured. 
 After the effects of the earthquake had somewhat sub- 
 sided, and the sea became comparatively tranquil, she 
 was found to leak badly. Her guns were landed, and 
 as there was no suitable place in Simoda to heave her 
 down. Admiral Pontiatine sent to look for some con- 
 tiguous spot fit for the purpose ; and he informed 
 Commander Adams that he found a most excellent 
 and sheltered harbor, resembling that of Hakodadi, 
 but smaller, and completely land-locked, with an 
 abundance of water. It is about sixty miles from 
 Simoda, at a place called Sed-do, situated at the head 
 of the bay which lies westward of the peninsula of 
 Idzu. Here the Russian admiral attempted to take 
 his disabled ship and repair her, but a gale came on, 
 and she foundered near the shore, the officers and 
 crew with difficulty saving their lives. They were 
 all in Japan during the stay of Commander Adams, 
 and, at that time, with little prospect of getting away. 
 They, however, subsequently chartered the American 
 schooner Foote, and sailed in her for Petropaulowski. 
 The Russians were in distress, and Captain McCluney, 
 of the Powhatan, generously supplied them with all 
 the provisions he could spare from his ship. The ob- 
 
378 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 ject of the admiral was to make for his country a 
 treaty with Japan, and it was concluded after the loss 
 of his ship, and during the stay of Commander Ad- 
 ams, who was informed by the admiral that it was 
 exactly like that made hy Commodore Perry for us, 
 with the single change of a substitution of the harbor 
 of Nagasaki for that of Kapha in Lew Chew ; this is 
 no improvement, inasmuch as the long continued and 
 tame submission of the Dutch at Dezima has taught 
 the Japanese officials there to be very arrogant and 
 insolent toward foreigners. But, although Admiral 
 Pontiatine thus succeeded in making a treaty, the Ja- 
 panese "appeared to entertain no goodwill toward 
 the Russians." 
 
 While the Powhatan was at Simoda, a French 
 ship arrived there and anchored in the outer harbor, 
 having on board two Japanese seamen who had been 
 taken off the wreck of a junk about three years be- 
 fore by an American whale-ship. The authorities 
 ordered the vessel off, would permit none of their 
 people to go on board of her, and positively refused 
 to receive the shipwrecked seamen. They had, they 
 said, no treaty with France, and French vessels had 
 no right to come there under any pretext. At the 
 intercession, however, of Commander Adams, they 
 agreed to receive their shipwrecked countrymen from 
 the Powhatan, if he would first receive them on board 
 his ship, and then deliver them as coming from an 
 American man-of-war. This plan was adopted. The 
 men were kept all night on board the Powhatan, and 
 landed the next morning. They were immediately, 
 however, compelled to lay aside their European cloth- 
 
EEBTOEATION OIJ- SIMODA. 879 
 
 ing, and conform in all respects to the Japanese cos- 
 tume ; besides which they were placed under a strict 
 surveillance, which continued so long as the ship 
 remained. 
 
 Notwithstanding the calamities caused by the 
 earthquake, there was shown a resiliency, in the Ja- 
 panese character, which spoke well for their energy. 
 They were busily engaged, when the Powhatan ar- 
 rived, in clearing away and rebuilding. Stone, 
 timber, thatch, tiles, lime, &c., were coming in daily 
 from all quarters, and before the Powhatan left, there 
 were about three hundred new houses nearly or quite 
 completed, though occasional and some pretty strong 
 shocks, during the ship's stay, were admonishing them 
 of a possible recurrence of the calamity. 
 
 The outlines of the harbor of Simoda were not 
 altered at all by the earthquake, but the holding 
 ground seems to have been washed out to sea, leaving 
 no bottom scarcely but naked rocks. This, however, 
 will be resupplied, as it was furnished in the first in- 
 stance, by the washings from the land, which will 
 probably accumulate rapidly. The Powhatan, for 
 want of holding ground, dragged witli three anchors 
 ahead, the wind blowing across the harbor, and no 
 sea. Indeed, she was obliged to rely on her steam to 
 keep ofi" the rocks. 
 
 The Japanese were much more disposed to be 
 friendly and sociable than on the former visit. The 
 officers of the ship roamed over the country undis- 
 turbed, went into the villages, and were received with 
 a welcome everywhere. Espionage seemed to have 
 been laid aside, for there was no attempt to follow or 
 
380 EXPEDITION TO JAPAK. 
 
 watcli them. The shops having all been destroyed, a 
 bazaar was opened in a temple repaired for the pur- 
 pose, and was soon filled with a variety of beautiful 
 articles brought from Yedo and the interior towns. 
 The officers were not only invited but importuned to 
 buy, which they did very freely. An anxious wish 
 was expressed by the people to Commander Adams, 
 that trading vessels from America would soon begin 
 to visit them, and the governor of Simoda intimated 
 to the Commander that it would be very agreeable to 
 him, personally, if a consul from the United States 
 should be appointed to reside at Simoda. 
 
 The Japanese were exceedingly desirous of ob- 
 taining English books, particularly on medical and 
 scientific subjects; and many valuable works were 
 given to them by our officers. But they coveted our 
 books on any subject except religion. One circum- 
 stance occurred which, says Commander Adams, 
 " made me feel a little ashamed." " The governor of 
 Simoda sent off a bundle of religious books which he 
 said ' Bittinger ' (one of the chaplains of Commodore 
 Perry's squadron) had left there clandestinely, which 
 was contrary to Japanese law, and ' not right ; ' and 
 he begged me to take them away with me, which I 
 agreed to do." 
 
 Commander Adams found that they had learned 
 to manage the locomotive which the President had sent 
 to the Emperor ; they had also the life-boat afloat, 
 with a trained crew, but the magnetic telegraph they 
 said was too hard for them yet. Every day, when 
 Commander Adams was not employed on shore, the 
 lieutenant-governor or some official of high rank came 
 
EXCHAi?-GE OF RATIFICATIONS. 381 
 
 off to visit him, and their meetings were those of old 
 friends. Some of them indeed were old acquaint- 
 ances ; the governor of Simoda was Isawa Mimasaki 
 Nokami, one of the treaty commissioners, and our old 
 friend the interpreter, Moryama Tenoske, was also at 
 Simoda, having been very deservedly promoted ; 
 others of the commissioners were also there for the 
 purpose of exchanging ratifications. They inquired 
 with great interest about Commodore Perry, sent 
 many messages of friendship and remembrance, and 
 charged Commander Adams to say to him that his 
 " name would live for ever in the history of Japan." 
 
 As to the exchange of ratifications, the Japanese, 
 at first, interposed two objections ; these, however, did 
 not arise from unwillingness to abide by their engage- 
 ments, but were rather technical, and founded upon 
 their scrupulous interpretation of the terms of a writ- 
 ten contract, and upon their profound respect for cere- 
 monials. The objections were first, that their copy 
 of the treaty said it was to be ratified after eighteen 
 months ; ours said within eighteen months ; but as 
 the Dutch and Chinese translations agreed with the 
 English copy, and as that had been taken as the origi- 
 nal, from which all the translations, including their 
 Japanese version, had been made, they became con- 
 vinced that the discrepancy arose from the ignorance 
 of their translator, and having had explained to them 
 what was meant by the English word " within," as 
 here used, they very gracefully withdrew all objec- 
 tion on this score. The other objection was to the 
 Emperor's affixing his sign manual to the Japanese 
 copy for our government. They said the Emperor 
 
382 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 
 
 never signed any document, but the supreme council 
 only. Commander Adams represented to them that 
 the President and Secretary of State had signed the 
 copy he had brought for them, and beside, the Em- 
 peror was the party named in the instrument as 
 having made the treaty, and therefore he wished his 
 signature. Finally, it was concluded that both the 
 Emperor and supreme council should sign it, and it 
 was accordingly done. 
 
 On the 21st of February, the exchanges were for- 
 mally made, and as soon as it was done, the Powhatan 
 immediately showed the Japanese flag at the fore and 
 fired a salute of seventeen guns. The Commissioners 
 also gave Commander Adams a ratified copy of the 
 " additional regulations" made between the Commo- 
 dore and the Japanese Commissioners, which they 
 seemed to consider part of the treaty, with a request 
 that he would deliver it to the President, and ask him 
 to send out, by some American ship, the American 
 ratification, as soon as it was completed. On the next 
 day the Powhatan left Simoda. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 MILLAED FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES 
 OF AMERICA, TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPE- 
 ROR OF JAPAN. 
 
 Geeat and good Fkiend : I send you this public letter 
 by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, an officer of the highest 
 rank in the navy of the United States, and commander of 
 the squadron now visiting your imperial majesty's dominions. 
 
 I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your impe- 
 rial majesty that I entertain the kindest feelings towards 
 your majesty's person and government, and that I have 
 no other object in sending him to Japan but to propose 
 to your imperial majesty that the United States and Japan 
 should live in friendship and have commercial intercourse 
 with each other. 
 
 The Constitution and laws of the United States forbid 
 all interference with the religious or political concerns of 
 other nations. I have particularly charged Commodore 
 Perry to abstain from every act which could possibly dis- 
 turb the tranquillity of your imperial majesty's dominions. 
 
 The United States of America reach from ocean to 
 ocean, and our territory of Oregon and State of California 
 lie directly opposite to the dominions of your imperial majea- 
 
384 APPENDIX. 
 
 ty. Our steamships cau go from California to Japan in 
 eighteen days. 
 
 Our great State of California produces about sixty mil- 
 lions of dollars in gold every year, besides silver, quicksilver, 
 precious stones, and many other valuable articles. Japan is 
 also a rich and fertile country, and produces many very val- 
 uable articles. Your imperial majesty's subjects are skilled 
 in many of the arts. I am desirous that our two countries 
 should trade with each other, for the benefit both of Japan 
 and the United States. 
 
 We know that the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's 
 government do not allow of foreign trade, except with the 
 Chinese and the Dutch- but as the state of the world 
 changes and new governments are formed, it seems to be 
 wise, from time to time, to make new laws. There was a 
 time when the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's gov- 
 ernment were first made. 
 
 About the same time America, which is sometimes called 
 the New World, was first discovered and settled by the Eu- 
 ropeans. For a long time there were but a few people, and 
 they were poor. They have now become quite numerous ; 
 their commerce is very extensive ; and they think that if 
 your imperial majesty were so far to change the ancient 
 laws as to allow a free trade between the two countries, it 
 would be extremely beneficial to both. 
 
 If your imperial majesty is not satisfied that* it would be 
 safe altogether to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid 
 foreign trade, they might be suspended for five or ten years, 
 so as to try the experiment. If it does not prove as bene- 
 ficial as was hoped, the ancient laws can be restored. The 
 United States often limit their treaties with foreign States 
 to a few years, and then renew them or not, as they please. 
 
 I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another 
 thing to your imperial majesty. Many of our ships pass 
 
APPENDIX. 385 
 
 every year from California to China ; and great numbers of 
 our people pursue the whale fishery near the shores of Japan. 
 It sometimes happens, in stormy weather, that one of our 
 ships is wrecked on your imperial majesty's shores. In all 
 such cases we ask, and expect, that our unfortunate people 
 should be treated with kindness, and that their property 
 should be protected, till we can send a vessel and bring them 
 away. We are very much in earnest in this. 
 
 Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent 
 to your imperial majesty that we understand there is a 
 great abundance of coal and provisions in the Empire of 
 Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the great ocean, burn 
 a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to bring it all 
 the way from America. We wish that our steamships and 
 other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply 
 themselves with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay 
 for them in money, or any thing else your imperial majesty's 
 subjects may prefer ; and we request your imperial majesty 
 to appoint a convenient port, in the southern part of the 
 Empire, where our vessels may stop for this purpose. We 
 are very desirous of this. 
 
 These are the only objects for which I have sent Com- 
 modore Perry, with a powerful squadron,, to pay a visit to 
 your imperial majesty's renowned city of Yedo : friendship, 
 commerce, a supply of coal and provisions, and protection 
 for our shipwrecked people. 
 
 We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your impe- 
 rial majesty's acceptance of a few presents. They are of no 
 great value in themselves ; but some of them may serve as 
 specimens of the articles manufactured in the United States, 
 and they are intended as tokens of our sincere and respect- 
 ful friendship. 
 
 May the Almighty have your imperial majesty in His 
 great and holy keeping ! 
 17 
 
386 APPENDIX. 
 
 In witness whereof, I have caused the great seal of the 
 United States to be hereunto affized, and have subscribed 
 the same with my name, at the city of Washington, in Amer- 
 ica, the seat of my government, on the thirteenth day of the 
 month of November, in the year one thousand eight hundred 
 and fifty-two. 
 [Seal attached.] 
 
 Your good friend, 
 
 MILLARD FILLMORE. 
 By the President : 
 
 EDWARD EVERETT, 
 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 TRANSLATION OF ANSWER TO THE LETTER OF THE PRE- 
 SIDENT TO THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN. 
 
 " The return of your excellency, as ambassador of the 
 United States to this Empire, has been expected according 
 to the letter of his Majesty the President, which letter your 
 excellency delivered last year to his Majesty, the Emperor 
 of this Empire. 
 
 " It is quite impossible to give satisfactory answers at 
 once to all the proposals of your government, as it is most 
 positively forbidden by the laws of our Imperial ancestors ; 
 but for us to continue attached to the ancient laws, seems 
 to misunderstand the spirit of the age ; however, we are 
 governed now by imperative necessity. 
 
 " At the visit of your excellency last year to this Em- 
 pire, his Majesty the former Emperor was sick, and is now 
 dead. Subsequently, his Majesty the present Emperor as- 
 cended the throne ; the many occupations in consequence 
 thereof are not yet finished, and there is no time to settle 
 other business thoroughly. Moreover, his Majesty, the new 
 
APPENDIX. 387 
 
 Emperor, at the accession to the throne, promised to the 
 princes and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. 
 It is therefore evident that he cannot now bring about any 
 alteration in the ancient laws. 
 
 " Last autumn, at the departure of the Dutch ship, the 
 superintendent of the Dutch trade in Japan was requested 
 to inform your government of this event, and a reply in 
 writing has been received. 
 
 " At Nagasaki arrived recently the Russian ambassador 
 to communicate a wish of his government. He has since 
 left the said place, because no answer would be given to any 
 nation that might communicate similar wishes. However, 
 we admit the urgency of, and shall entirely comply with, the 
 proposals of your government concerning coal, wood, water, 
 provisions, and the saving of ships and their crews in dis- 
 tress. After being informed which harbor your excellency 
 selects, the harbor shall be prepared, which preparation it is 
 estimated will take about five years. Meanwhile a com- 
 mencement can be made with the coal at Nagasaki by the 
 next Japanese first month, (Siogoots,) (16th of February, 
 1855.) 
 
 " Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request 
 your excellency to furnish us with an estimate, and upon 
 due consideration this will be complied with, if not in oppo- 
 sition to our laws. What do you understand by provisions, 
 and how much coal ? 
 
 " Finally, any thing ships may be in want of that can bo 
 furnished from the productions of this Empire, shall be sup- 
 plied. The prices of merchandise and articles of barter to 
 be fixed by Kurakawa Kahei and Moryama Yenoske. After 
 settling the points before mentioned, the treaty can be con- 
 cluded and signed at the next interview. 
 
 " Seals attached by order of the high gentlemen. 
 
 "MORYAMA YENOSKE." 
 
388 APPENDIX. 
 
 COMMODORE PERRY TO JAPANESE COMMISSIONERS. 
 
 United States Flag-Ship Powhatan, 
 Yedo Bay, off the town of ToJcu-hama, March 1, 1854. 
 
 Your Excellency : In presenting for the consideration 
 of your highness the accompanying draught of a treaty, 
 •which, in all its essential features, is identical with that at 
 present subsisting between the United States and China, I 
 again yenture to urge upon the imperial government of Ja- 
 pan the importance of establishing a friendly understanding 
 with the nation which I have the honor on this occasion to 
 represent. 
 
 It would be needless in me to reiterate the arguments 
 already advanced in support of a measure so fraught with 
 the best interests of the two nations, and so necessary to the 
 peace and prosperity of Japan. 
 
 I have in a former communication remarked that the 
 President of the United States entertains the strongest de- 
 sire, and cherishes a most fervent hope, that the mission 
 which he has intrusted to my charge may result in the ac- 
 complishment of a treaty mutually beneficial, and tending 
 to avert, by timely negotiation, the consequences that would 
 otherwise grow out of collisions certain to arise, should the 
 present undefined relations between the two countries much 
 longer continue. 
 
 In the increasing number of American ships almost 
 daily passing and repassing the territories of Japan, the 
 President is apprehensive of the occurrence of some further 
 act of hostility towards the unoffending citizens of the. 
 United States who may be thrown by misfortune upon your 
 shores, and hence his wish to establish a treaty of friendship, 
 which shall give assurance of the discontinuance of a course 
 of policy, on the part of the Japanese, altogether at variance 
 
APPENDIX. 389 
 
 ■with the usages of other nations, and no longer to be toler- 
 ated by the United States. 
 
 As an evidence of the friendly intentions of the Presi- 
 dent, and to pay the highest honor to his Imperial Majesty, 
 he has sent me in command of a number of ships — to be in- 
 creased by others which are to follow — not only to bear to 
 his Majesty the letter which I have already presented, but 
 to evince, by every suitable act of kindness, the cordial feel- 
 ings entertained by him towards Japan. 
 
 That there might be sufficient time allowed for a full con- 
 sideration of the just and reasonable demands of the Presi- 
 dent, I took upon myself to withdraw the ships in July last 
 from the coast, and have now, after an absence of seven 
 months, returned, in the full expectation of a most satisfac- 
 tory arrangement. 
 
 Another proof of the friendly disposition of the Presi- 
 dent has been given in his sending for exhibition to the Im- 
 perial court three of the magnificent steamers of the United 
 States, of which there are many thousands, large and small, 
 in America ; and he has also sent, for presentation to the 
 Emperor, many specimens of the most useful inventions of 
 our country. 
 
 Therefore, after all these demonstrations of good will, it 
 would be strange if the Japanese government did not seize 
 upon this very favorable occasion to secure a friendly inter- 
 course with a people anxious to prevent, by wise and pru- 
 dent foresight, all causes of future misunderstanding and 
 strife. 
 
 It will be observed that there is no western nation so in- 
 timately connected with the peace and welfare of Japan as 
 the United States, a part of whose territory lies opposite the 
 Imperial coast, and whose commerce covers the Pacific ocean 
 and Japan seas ; not less than five hundred large ships being 
 engaged exclusively in those regions in pursuit of whales, the 
 
390 APPKNDIX. 
 
 crews of many of which suffer for want of water and other 
 refreshments ; and it would seem nothing more than common 
 humanity to receive those who may seek shelter in the ports 
 of Japan with kindness and hospitality. 
 
 The government of China has derived much benefit from 
 its treaty with the United States. The purchase of teas by 
 the Americans during the present year will amount to three 
 million six hundred thousand (3,600,000) taels, and of raw 
 and manufactured silks to nearly three millions (3,000,000) 
 of taels. 
 
 Nearly thirty thousand subjects of the Emperor of China 
 have visited America, where they have been kindly received, 
 and permitted by the American laws to engage in whatever 
 occupation best suited them. They have also been allowed 
 to erect temples, and to enjoy in all freedom their religious 
 rites. All have accumulated money, and some have re- 
 turned to China, after a short absence, with sums varying 
 from 300 to 10,000 taels. 
 
 I have adverted to these facts merely to show the advan- 
 tages that would grow out of such a treaty as I now pro- 
 pose, and to remark again that some amicable arrangement 
 between the two nations has become positively necessary, and 
 for reasons already explained. 
 
 Indeed I shall not dare to return to the United States 
 without carrying with me satisfactory responses to all the 
 proposals ot the President, and I must remain until such 
 are placed in my possession. 
 
 With the most profound respect, 
 
 M. C. Perry, 
 
 Commander-in-Chief U. 8. Naval Forces Fast India, China, 
 
 and Japan Seas, and Special Atnbassador to Japan. 
 His Higiiness HAYAsm-DAiGAKi-NO-KAMi, &c., &c. 
 
APPENDIX. 391 
 
 TREATY. 
 
 The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, 
 desiring to establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship 
 between the two nations, have resolved to fix, in a manner 
 clear and positive, by means of a treaty or general conven- 
 tion of peace and amity, the rules which shall in future be 
 mutually observed in the intercourse of their respective 
 countries ; for which most desirable object the President of 
 the United States has conferred full powers on his commis- 
 sioner, Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the 
 United States to Japan ; and the august sovereign of Japan 
 has given similar full powers to his commissioners, Hayashi- 
 Daigaku-Nokami, Ido, Prince of Tsus-Sima, Izawa, Prince 
 of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the Board of Revenue. 
 
 And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their 
 said full powers, and duly considered the premises, have 
 agreed to the following articles : 
 
 ARTICLE I. 
 
 There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace, 
 and a sincere and cordial amity, between the United States 
 of America on the one part, and the Empire of Japan on 
 the other, and between their people, respectively, without 
 exception of persons or places. 
 
 ARTICLE 11. 
 
 The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the 
 port of Hakodadi, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted 
 by the Japanese as ports for the reception of American 
 ships, where they can be supplied with wood, water, provi- 
 sions, and coal, and other articles their necessities may re- 
 quire, as far as the Japanese have them. The time for 
 
392 APPENDIX. 
 
 opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this 
 treaty ; the last-named port is to he opened immediately after 
 the same day in the ensuing Japanese year. 
 
 Note. — A tariff of prices shall be given by the Japanese 
 officers of the things which they can furnish, payment for 
 which shall be made in gold and silver coin. 
 
 ARTICLE III. 
 
 Whatever ships of the United States are thrown or 
 wrecked on the coast of Japan, the Japanese vessels will 
 assist them, and carry their crews to Simoda or Hakodadi, 
 and hand them over to their countrymen appointed to receive 
 tlier^. Whatever articles the shipwrecked men may have 
 preserved shall likewise be restored, and the expenses in- 
 curred in the rescue and support of American and Japanese, 
 who may thus be thrown upon the shores of either nation, 
 are not to be refunded. 
 
 ARTICLE IV. 
 
 Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the 
 United States shall be free as in other countries, and not 
 subjected to confinement, but shall be amenable to just laws. 
 
 ARTICLE T. 
 
 Shipwrecked men, and other citizens of the United States, 
 temporarily living at Simoda and Hakodadi, shall not be 
 subject to such restrictions and confinement as the Dutch 
 and Chinese are at Nagasaki; but shall be free at Simoda to 
 go where they please within the limits of seven Japanese 
 miles (or ri) from a small island in the harbor of Simoda, 
 marked on the accompanying chart, hereto appended ; and 
 shall in like manner be free to go where they please at Hako- 
 dadi, within limits to be defined after the visit of the United 
 States squadron to that place. 
 
APPENDIX. 393 
 
 ARTICLE VI. 
 
 If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any busi- 
 ness which shall require to be arranged, there shall be care- 
 ful deliberation between the parties in order to settle such 
 matters. 
 
 ARTICLE VII. 
 
 It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to 
 the ports open to them, shall be permitted to exchange gold 
 and silver coin, and articles of goods, for other articles of 
 goods, under such regulations as shall be temporarily estab- 
 lished by the Japanese government for that purpose. It is 
 stipulated, however, that the ships of the United States shall 
 be permitted to carry away whatever articles they are unwil- 
 ling to exchange. 
 
 ARTICLE VIII. 
 
 Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall 
 only be procured through the agency of Japanese officers 
 appointed for that purpose, and in no other manner. 
 
 ARTICLE IX. 
 
 It is agreed, that if, at any future day, the government 
 of Japan shall grant to any other nation or nations privile- 
 ges which are not herein granted to the United States and 
 the citizens thereof, that the same privileges and advantages 
 shall be granted likewise to the United States and to the 
 citizens thereof without any consultation or delay. 
 
 ARTICLE X. 
 
 Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort 
 to no other ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodadi, unless 
 in distress or forced by stress of weather. 
 
39i APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICLE XI. 
 
 There shall be appointed by the government of the 
 United States consuls or agents to reside in Simoda at any 
 time after the expiration of eighteen months from the date 
 of the signing of this treaty ; provided that either of the 
 two governments deem such arrangement necessary. 
 
 ARTICLE XII. 
 
 The present convention, having been concluded and duly 
 signed, shall be obligatory, and faithfully observed by the 
 United States of America and Japan, and by the citizens 
 and subjects of each respective power ; and it is to be ratified 
 and approved by the President of the United States, by 
 and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof, and 
 by the august Sovereign of Japan, and the ratifications shall 
 be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the 
 signature thereof, or sooner if practicable. 
 
 In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of 
 the United States of America and the Empire of Japan, 
 aforesaid, have signed and sealed these presents. 
 
 Done at Kanagawa, this thirty-first day of March, in the 
 year of our Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred 
 and fifty-four, and of Keyei the seventh year, third month, 
 and third day. 
 
APPENDIX. 395 
 
 ADDITIONAL REGULATIONS 
 
 Agreed to hetioeen Commodore Matthew C. Perry, special 
 envoy to Japan from the United States of America, 
 and Hayashi Daigaku-no-kami ; Ido, Prince of Psus- 
 sima ; Izawa, Prince of Mimasaki ; Tsudzuki, Prince 
 of Suruga ; Udono, member of the board of revenue ; 
 Take-no-uchi Sheitaro, and Matsusaki Michitaro, com- 
 missioners of the Emperor of Japan, on behalf of their 
 respective governments. 
 
 ARTICLE I. 
 
 The imperial governors of Simoda will place watch sta- 
 tions wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of 
 their jurisdiction ; hut Americans are at liberty to go 
 through them, unrestricted, within the limits of seven Ja- 
 panese ri, or miles ; and those who are found transgressing 
 Japanese laws may be apprehended by the police and taken 
 on board their ships. 
 
 ARTICLE II. 
 
 Three landing-places shall be constructed for the boats 
 of merchant ships and whale-ships resorting to this port ; 
 one at Simoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook 
 lying southeast of Centre Island. The citizens of the 
 United States will, of course, treat the Japanese officers with 
 proper respect. 
 
 ARTICLE III. 
 
 Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to 
 military establishments or private houses without leave ; but 
 they can enter shops and visit temples as they please. 
 
 ARTICLE IV. 
 
 Two temples, the Rioshen at Simoda, and the Yokushen 
 
396 APPENDIX. 
 
 at Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons in 
 tteir walks, until public houses and inns are erected for 
 their convenience. 
 
 ARTICLE T. 
 
 Near the Temple Yokushen, at Kakizaki, a burial- 
 gi'ound has been set apart for Americans, where their graves 
 and tombs shall not be molested. 
 
 ARTICLE VI. 
 
 It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal will 
 be furnished at Hakodadi ; but as it is very diflScult for the 
 Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry prom- 
 ises to mention this to his government, in order that the Ja- 
 panese government may be relieved from the obligation of 
 making that port a coal depot. 
 
 ARTICLE VII. 
 
 It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language shall 
 not be employed in official communications between the two 
 governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter. 
 
 ARTICLE Tin. 
 
 A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been ap- 
 pointed for the port of Simoda. 
 
 ARTICLE IX. 
 
 Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be 
 marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed 
 upon, and then be sent to the Goyoshi, or government office, 
 where the money is to be paid to Japanese officers, and the 
 articles delivered by them. 
 
 ARTICLE X. 
 
 The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden 
 
APPENDIX. 397 
 
 in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all 
 Americana. 
 
 ARTICLE XI. 
 
 It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles, be the 
 limit allowed to Americans at Hakodadi, and the require- 
 ments contained in Article I. of these Regulations, are here- 
 by made also applicable to that port within that distance. 
 
 ARTICLE XII. 
 
 His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to ap- 
 point whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the 
 treaty of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his 
 part. 
 
 It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any 
 way afiect or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kana- 
 gawa, should that be found to be contrary to these regula- 
 tions. 
 
 In witness whereof, copies of these additional regulations 
 have been signed and sealed in the English and Japanese 
 languages by the respective parties, and a certified transla- 
 tion in the Dutch language, and exchanged by the commis- 
 sioners of the United States and Japan. 
 
 M. C. Pbkrt. 
 Commander-in-Chief of the U. 8. Naval Forces East India, 
 
 China, and Japan Seas, and Special Envoy to Japan. 
 
 SiMODA, Japan, June lY, 1854. 
 
 "COMPACT BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND THE 
 KINGDOM OF LEW CHEW, SIGNED AT NAPHA, GREAT 
 LEW CHEW, THE 11th DAY OF JULY, 1854. 
 
 " Hereafter, whenever citizens of the United States come 
 to Lew Chew, they shall be treated with great courtesy and 
 friendship. Whatever articles these persons ask for, whether 
 
398 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 from the officers or people, which the country can furnish, 
 shall be sold to them ; nor shall the authorities interpose anj 
 prohibitory regulations to the people selling ; and whatever 
 either party may wish to buy shall be exchanged at reason- 
 able prices. 
 
 " Whenever ships of the United States shall come into 
 any harbor in Lew Chew, they shall be supplied with 
 wood and water at reasonable prices ; but if they wish to 
 get other articles they shall be purchasable only at Napha. 
 
 " If ships of the United States are wrecked on Great Lew 
 Chew, or on islands under the jurisdiction of the royal gov- 
 ernment of Lew Chew, the local authorities shall despatch 
 persons to assist in saving life and property, and preserve 
 what can be brought ashore till the ships of that nation shall 
 come to take away all that may have been saved ; and the 
 expenses incurred in rescuing these unfortunate person shall 
 be refunded by the nation they belong to. 
 
 " Whenever persons from ships of the United States 
 come ashore in Lew Chew they shall be at liberty to ramble 
 where they please, without hindrance, or having officials sent 
 to follow them, or to spy what they do ; but if they violently 
 go into houses, or trifle with women, or force people to sell 
 them things, or do other such like illegal acts, they shall be 
 arrested by the local officers, but not maltreated, and shall 
 be reported to the captain of the ship to which they belong, 
 for punishment by him. 
 
 " At Tumai is a burial-ground for the citizens of the 
 United States, where their graves and tombs shall not be 
 molested. 
 
 " The government of Lew Chew shall appoint skilful 
 pilots, who shall be on the look-out for ships appearing off 
 the island ; and if one is seen coming towards Napha, they 
 shall go out in good boats beyond the reef to conduct her in 
 to a secure anchorage ; for which service the captain shall pay 
 
APPENDIX. 399 
 
 the pilot five dollars, and the same for going out of the har- 
 bor beyond the reefs. 
 
 " Whenever ships anchor at Napha, the local authorities 
 shall furnish them with wood at the rate of three thousand 
 six hundred copper cash per thousand catties ; and with 
 water at the rate of six hundred copper cash (43 cents) for 
 one thousand catties, or six barrels full, each containing 
 thirty American gallons. 
 
 " Signed in the English and Chinese languages, by Com- 
 modore Matthew C. Perry, commander-in-chief of the United 
 States naval forces in the East India, China, and Japan seas, 
 and special envoy to Japan, for the United States ; and by 
 Sho Fu Fing, superintendent of afi'airs (Tsu-li-kwan) in Lew 
 Chew, and Ba Rio-si, treasurer of Lew Chew, at Sheudi, 
 for the government of Lew Chew ; and copies exchanged 
 this 11th day of July, 1854, or the reign Hien Fung, 4th 
 year, 6th moon, 17th day, at the town hall of Napha. " 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE RELATIVE TO THE BONIN ISLANDS. 
 
 SUPERINTENDENCT OF TrADE, 
 
 Hong Kong, December 22, 1853. 
 
 Sir : With reference to my interview with your excel- 
 lency, respecting your visit to the Bonin islands, and to your 
 proposal that I should address you officially on this subject, 
 I have now the honor to enclose, for your information, copy 
 of a letter and its enclosures from a Mr. Simpson, wherein it 
 is stated that you have purchased ground from a resident 
 there for a coal depot, for the use of the government of the 
 United States of America. 
 
 After our conversation yesterday your excellency will, I 
 am sure, clearly understand that it is not my desire nor in- 
 tention to dispute your right, or that of any other person, 
 
400 APPKNDIX. 
 
 to purchase land on the Bonin islands ; but as it is gencrallj 
 understood that this group was some time ago taken posses- 
 sion of in the name of the government of Great Britain, I 
 think it desirable to acquaint your excellency therewith, in 
 an official form, that you may, should you see fit, favor me 
 with an explanation of the circumstances referred to by Mr. 
 Simpson. 
 
 I have the honor to be, sir, your excellency's most obe- 
 dient humble servant, 
 
 J. Q. BONHAM. 
 
 His Excellency Commodore Perry, U. S. Navy^ &c., 
 
 U. 8. Steamship Susquehanna. 
 
 Beattlet, Invernesshike, 
 
 October 1, 1853. 
 
 My Lord : I observe it stated in the public prints that 
 the officer commanding the United States Japan expedition 
 had touched at the Bonin group — that he had made purchase 
 from a resident there of land for a government coal depot. 
 
 Permit me to call your lordship's attention to the fact 
 that this group of islands, so advantageously situated for 
 opening up intercourse with Japan, really appertains to Great 
 Britain. 
 
 Having had some connection with it while acting tempo- 
 rarily for her Majesty's government in the South seas, its 
 importance was impressed upon my mind ; and I respectfully 
 bring under your lordship's notice the particulars which will 
 be found narrated in the enclosure herewith. 
 I have, &o., 
 
 Alex. Simpson. 
 True copy : 
 
 H. N. Lay. 
 
 Lord Clarendon, <&c., <kc., die. 
 
APPENDIX. 401 
 
 Extract from a Pamphlet published by the writer in 1843. 
 
 THE BONIN ISLANDS. 
 
 " WoAHOo, Sandwich Islands, 
 
 "December 2Y, 1842. 
 
 " This small but interesting, and, from its situation, valu- 
 able group of islands lies in latitude 27 ° north, longitude 
 146° east, within five hundred miles' distance from the city 
 of Jedo in Japan. 
 
 " It appertains to Great Britain, having been discovered 
 by an English whaling vessel, in 1825, and formally taken 
 possession of by Captain Beechey, of her Majesty's ship 
 ' Blossom,' in 1827. There were no aboriginal inhabitants 
 found on the islands, nor any trace that such had ever ex- 
 isted. 
 
 " Their aggregate extent does not exceed two hundred 
 and fifty square miles ; but their geographical position — so 
 near to Japan, that mysterious empire of which the trade 
 will one day be of immense value — gives them a peculiar 
 importance and interest. The climate is excellent, the soil 
 rich and productive, and there is an admirable harbor, well 
 fitted for the port of a commercial city. 
 
 " The first colonists of this eastern group were two men 
 of the names of Millichamp and Mazarro, who, having ex- 
 pressed to Mr. Charlton, the British consul at the Sandwich 
 Islands, their wish to settle on some uninhabited island in 
 the Pacific ocean, were by him recommended to go to this 
 group, of the discovery and taking possession of which he 
 had been recently infformed. They sailed accordingly, in 
 1830, took with them some Sandwich island natives as la- 
 borers, some live stock and seeds ; and landing at port Lloyd, 
 hoisted an English flag which had been given to them by Mr. 
 Charlton. 
 
402 APPENDIX. 
 
 " The little settlement has been visited by several whaling 
 vessels since that period, and also by a vessel from the Brit- 
 ish China squadron. Mr. Millichamp returned to England, 
 and Mr. Mazarro, anxious to get additional settlers or la- 
 borers to join the infant colony, the whole population of 
 which only numbers about twenty, came to the Sandwich Isl- 
 ands, in the autumn of 1842, in an English whaling vessel. 
 He described the little settlement as flourishing, stated that 
 he had hogs and goats in abundance, and a few cattle ; that 
 he grew Indian corn, and many vegetables, and had all kinds 
 of tropical fruits ; that, in fact, he could supply fresh pro- 
 visions and vegetables to forty vessels annually. 
 
 " Mr. Mazarro, who, in virtue of his first arrival, re- 
 ceives the appellation of governor, finds the task of govern- 
 ing even this little colony no easy matter. He applied to 
 me for assistance in this task, and thankfully received the 
 following document, which I drew up for his assistance and 
 moral support : 
 
 " ' I hereby certify that Mr. Matthew Mazarro was one 
 of the original leaders of the expedition fitted up from this 
 port, under the protection of Richard Charlton, Esq., her 
 Majesty's consul, to colonize the Benin islands ; and I would 
 intimate to the masters of all whaling vessels touching at 
 that group, that the said Mazarro is a sober and discreet 
 man, and recommend them to support him by all means in 
 their power against the troubles of the peace of that distant 
 settlement, recommending, also, to the settlers to receive Mr. 
 Mazarro as their head, until some officer directly appointed 
 by her Britannic Majesty is placed over them. 
 
 " ' Alex. Simpson. 
 " ' S". B. M. Acting Consul for the Sandwich Islands.'' 
 
 " * Grod save the queen.' 
 
APPENDIX. 403 
 
 " A small body of enterprising emigrants would find this 
 group a most admirable place for settlement. Its coloniza- 
 tion, indeed, I consider to be a national object. 
 
 " H. N. Lay." 
 " True copy." 
 
 United States Steam-Frigate Susquehanna, 
 
 Hong Kong, December 23, 1853. 
 
 Sik: Referring to the conversation which I yesterday 
 had the honor of holding with your excellency, as also to 
 your written communication, with accompanying papers, this 
 moment received, I beg to remark that the account given by 
 Mr. Simpson is far from being correct. 
 
 That gentleman has omitted to name all the white per- 
 sons who embarked in the enterprise to form a settlement 
 upon Peel Island. The names and places of birth of these 
 men may be enumerated as follows : 
 
 Mateo Mazarro, the leader, a native of Genoa; Na- 
 thaniel Savory, born in Massachusetts, United States ; 
 Alden B. Chapin, also a native of Massachusetts ; John 
 Millechamp, a British subject; and Charles Johnson, a 
 Dajie. 
 
 These five men, accompanied by about twenty-five or 
 thirty natives of the Sandwich Islands, male and female, 
 landed at Port Lloyd in the summer of 1830. Of the 
 whites, Nathaniel Savory is the only one remaining on the 
 island. Mazarro, Chapin, and Johnson, are dead, as I am 
 informed ; and Millechamp is now residing at Guam, one of 
 the Ladrone group. 
 
 It would, therefore, appear, that so far as the na- 
 tionality of the settlers could apply to the question of 
 Bovereignty, the Americans were as two to one, compared 
 
404 APPENDIX. 
 
 with the three others, who were subjects of different sove- 
 reigns. 
 
 Since the first occupation of the island, the early settlers 
 have been occasionally joined by white persona landing from 
 whaling ships, some few of whom have remained ; and, at 
 the time of my visit there were, I think, about eight whites 
 in the settlement. 
 
 These people, after my departure, met together and es- 
 tablished a form of municipal government, electing Nathan- 
 iel Savory their chief magistrate, and James Mottley and 
 Thomas H. Webb, councilmen. 
 
 With respect to any claim of sovereignty that may be 
 founded upon the right of previous discovery, there is 
 abundant evidence to prove that these islands were known 
 to navigators as early as the middle of the sixteenth 
 century, and were visited by the Japanese in 1675, who 
 gave them the name of " Bune Sima." — (See enclosed ex- 
 tracts.) 
 
 In 1823, three years before the visit of Captain 
 Beechey, in H. M. ship " Blossom," the group was visited 
 by a Captain CoflBn, in the American whaling ship " Tran- 
 sit." * 
 
 Thus it is plainly shown that the government of her 
 Britannic Majesty cannot claim the sovereignty upon the 
 ground of discovery, and it only remains to determine how 
 far this right may be derived from the ceremony performed 
 by Captain Beechey. 
 
 But these are matters only to be discussed by our re- 
 spective governments, and I refer to them now merely in ex- 
 planation of our conversation of yesterday. 
 
 * Since the first publication of this correspondence, it has since been 
 ascertained, that Captain Coffin was an American, but the ship he com- 
 manded was under English colors. 
 
APPENDIX. 405 
 
 With respect to my purchase of a piece of ground from 
 Nathaniel Savory, though conceiving myself in no way 
 bound to explain such arrangement, I do not hesitate, in all 
 due courtesy, to say, that the transaction was one of a 
 strictly private character. 
 
 In acquiring the fee of the land, I had not the slightest 
 idea of personal profit, but made the purchase for a legiti- 
 mate object, and to withhold the only suitable position in 
 the harbor for a coal depot from the venality of unprincipled 
 speculators, who might otherwise have gained possession of it 
 for purposes of extortion. 
 
 And now let me assure your excellency, that the course 
 pursued by me has been influenced solely by a settled con- 
 viction of the necessity of securing ports of refuge and sup- 
 plies in the north Pacific for our whaling ships, and a line 
 of mail steamers, which sooner or later must be established 
 between California and China. 
 
 I have no special instructions from my government upon 
 the subject, and am yet to learn whether my acts will be ap- 
 proved. 
 
 The recognized sovereignty of these islands would only 
 entail an expense upon the power undertaking their occu- 
 pancy and protection, and whether they may ultimately fall 
 under the American, the English, or a local flag, would be 
 a question of little importance, so long as their ports were 
 open to the hospitable reception of all nations seeking shelter 
 and refreshment. 
 
 And I may venture further to remark, that it would 
 seem to be the policy, as well of England as the United 
 States, to aid in every possible way in the accomplishment 
 of an arrangement that would fill up the remaining link of 
 the great mail-route of the world, and thus furnish the 
 means of establishing a semi-monthly communication around 
 the entire globe. 
 
406 APPENDIX. 
 
 With great respect, I have the honor to be, your mosl 
 obedient servant, 
 
 M. C. Peret, 
 Commander-in-Chief U. 8. Naval Forces East 
 
 India, China, and Japan Seas. 
 His Excellency Sir I. Geokge Bonham, Bart., 
 
 H. B. M. Chief Superintendent of Trade, Hong Kong. 
 
 Extracts from the Journal of Commodore Perry. 
 
 P. F. Von Siebold, in his " History of Discoveries in 
 the Japan Seas," published in 1852, in Europe and in 
 America, says that the Bonin islands are first mentioned in 
 a map published by the Dutch hydrographer Ortelius, in 
 1570, and therein reported as first to have been seen in 1543 
 by Bernardo de Torres, who gave them the name of Maloa- 
 brigo los dos Hermanos. 
 
 In 1595 these islands were visited by Captain Linchoten, 
 of the Dutch East India Company. 
 
 Hondius, Dutch hydrographer, notices the same in his 
 map of 1634. 
 
 In 1639 they were visited by Messrs. Quasi & Tasman, 
 who, according to Kempffer, were sent by the Dutch East 
 India Company in search of an island described in the Jap- 
 anese books as containing vast quantities of gold and 
 silver. 
 
 They have been subsequently mentioned as follows : In 
 1643, by Vries and Schaep; in 1650, by J. Jansonius, 
 Dutch ; and in 1680, by Van Keulen, Dutch. 
 
 Erom this time up to 1734, no mention is made 
 of them by European hydrographers ; in that year they 
 were seen by the Spanish or Portuguese Admiral Ca- 
 brero Bueno, who gave them the name of " Islas del Arzo- 
 bispos." 
 
APPENDIX. 407 
 
 According to Von Siebold, tte Japanese visited tlie 
 group between the years 1592 and 1595, and they again vis- 
 ited and explored the islands in 1675. 
 
 Extract from Klaproth. 
 
 " About the year 1675 the Japanese visited a very large 
 island, one of their barks having been forced there in a storm 
 from the island Fatscio, from which they computed it to be 
 300 miles distant towards the east. They met with no in- 
 habitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruitful 
 country, well supplied with fresh water, and furnished with 
 plenty of plants and trees, particularly the ' arrack ' tree, 
 which, however, might give room to conjecture that the 
 island lay rather to the south of Japan than to the east > 
 these trees growing only in hot countries. They called it 
 ' Bune Sima,' and because they found no inhabitants upon 
 it, they marked it with the character of an uninhabited isl- 
 and. On the shores they found an incredible quantity of 
 fish and crabs, some of which were from four to six feet 
 long." * 
 
 Extract from Klaprotli's translation of " San Kohp Tson 
 Man to Sets." 
 
 " The original name of these islands is ' Ogasa-wara- 
 Sima,' but they are commonly called ' Mow-nin-Sima,' (in 
 Chinese Wu-jin-ton,) or the islands without people, and this 
 
 * Doubtless mistaking turtle for crabs, green turtle being found in 
 great abundance upon the shores at night, in May and June. 
 
 M. C. P. 
 
408 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 is the name which I have adopted in my work. That of 
 ' Ogasa-nara-Sima,' or the ' Ogasa-wara ' islands, was 
 given to them after the navigator who first visited them, and 
 who prepared a map of them. In the same manner has the 
 southern part of the New World been called ' Megalania,' 
 (Magellan,) who discovered it some two hundred years 
 since." 
 
 M. C. Pekrt. 
 
 U. S. Flag-Ship, Powhatan. 
 
 SiMODA, JwM Viih, 1854:. 
 
 G-ENTLEMEN : You are hereby appointed to the duty of 
 holding communication with certain Japanese officials dele- 
 gated by the Imperial government, in conformity with the 
 treaty of Kanagawa, to arrange with officers alike delegated 
 by me, the rate of currency and exchange which shall for the 
 present govern the payments to be made by the several ships 
 of the squadron for articles that liave been and are to be 
 obtained; also to establish, as far as can be, the price at 
 which coal, per pecul or ton, can be delivered on board at 
 this port of Simoda. 
 
 It is not to be understood that the rate of currency 
 or exchange which may be agreed upon at this time 
 is to be permanent; on the contrary, it is intended 
 only to answer immediate purposes.* Neither you nor 
 myself are sufficiently acquainted with the purity and 
 
 * This order was intended to draw from 'the Japanese Commissioners 
 Bom© information in regard to their currency, and was not intended to be 
 obligatory. 
 
APPENDIX. 409 
 
 value of the Japanese coins to establish a fixed rate of 
 exchange, even if I had the power to recognize such ar- 
 rangement. 
 
 It will, however, be very desirable for you to make 
 yourselves acquainted with all the peculiarities of the 
 Japanese currency, and also, if practicable, with the 
 laws appertaining thereto, as the information will be val- 
 uable in facilitating all future negotiations upon the sub- 
 ject. 
 
 You will, of course, before entering into any agreement 
 which may be considered binding, refer to me. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 M. C. Peert. 
 Commander-in-Chief U. 8. Naval Farces, 
 
 Mast India and China Seas. 
 Purser Wm. Speiden, U. S. Navy. 
 Purser J. 0. Eldredue, U. 8. Navy. 
 
 REPORT TO THE COMMODORE ON THE JAPANESE CUR- 
 RENCY. 
 
 United States Steam-Frigate Powatan, 
 
 Simoda, June 15, 1854. 
 
 Sir : The committee appointed by you, in your letter of 
 the 12th instant, to confer with a committee from the Japa- 
 nese commissioners in reference to the rate of exchange and 
 currency between the two nations in the trade at the ports 
 opened, and to settle the price of coal to be delivered at this 
 port, beg leave to report : 
 
 The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the 
 
 conference with their minds made up to adhere to the valua- 
 18 
 
4i0 APPENDIX. 
 
 tion tliey had already set upon our coins, even if the alterna- 
 tive was the immediate cessation of trade. The hasis upon 
 which they made their calculation was the nominal rate at 
 which the government sells bullion when it is purchased from 
 the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal 
 is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal 
 system of weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, can- 
 dareen, and cash, by which articles in general are weighed; 
 but gold and silver are not reckoned above taels. In China 
 a tael of silver in weight and one in currency are the same, 
 for the Chinese have no silver coin ; but in Japan, as in 
 European countries, the standard of value weight and that 
 of currency weight differ. AVe were told that a tael weight 
 of silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as 
 equal to 225 candareens, or 2 taels 2 mace 5 candareens ; 
 but when coined, the same amount in weight is held to be worth 
 6 taels 4 mace. It is at the bullion value that the government 
 has decided to receive our dollar, the same at which they take 
 the silver from the mines ; asserting that, as its present die 
 and assay give it no additional value, it is worth no more to 
 them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 mace !• 
 candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it 
 worth 1 tael 6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese 
 government will make profit of 66f per cent, on every dollar 
 paid them of full weight, with the trifling deduction of 
 the expense of re-coining it. The injustice of this arrange- 
 ment was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller 
 himself the coin we gaVe at this depreciated rate urged, but 
 in vain. 
 
 For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the 
 value of bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is 
 not so great. A tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels 
 in currency, and a mace at 1 tael 9 mace. The gold dollar 
 weighs almost 5 candareens, but the Japanese have reckoned 
 
APPENDIX. 411 
 
 it as the twentieth part of a 820 piece, which they give as 8 
 mace 8 cadareens; and, consequently, the dollar is only 4 
 candareens 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when 
 compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be 
 worth 836 cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, 
 or 16 taels 7 mace 2 candareens. This, when converted into 
 a silver value, makes a gold dollar worth 52i cents, and a $20 
 piece worth $10 45, at which the Japanese proposed to take 
 them. But this valuation of the gold dollar at 621 cents, 
 when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the Japa- 
 nese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver ; 
 and its real value, when compared with the inflated currency 
 in use among the people, is only about 17i cents. Conse- 
 quently, by this estimate, gold becomes 50 per cent, worse 
 for us to pay in than silver. The currency value of a gold 
 dollar, taking the ichibu as of equal purity, and comparing 
 them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or nearly 22 cents 
 in silver ; so that the actual depreciation on the part of the 
 Japanese is not so great as silver — being for the two metals, 
 when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33i, and 
 for gold as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are 
 not quite certain, and therefore its results are somewhat 
 doubtful ; but the extraordinary discrepancy of both metals, 
 compared wiiih our coins and with their own copper coins, 
 shows how the government has inflated the whole monetary 
 system in order to benefit itself. 
 
 The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined 
 to consent to the proposals of the Japanese, who were de- 
 cided to adhere to their valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael 
 6 mace, or 1,600 cash ; neither would they consent to do justly 
 by us in relation to the moneys paid them at this place before 
 our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of only 1 tael 2 mace, 
 or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had made a profit 
 of 75 per cent, on each dollar, stating that the money paid them 
 
412 APPENDIX. 
 
 at this rate had passed out of their hands ; and, moreover, that 
 the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged 
 at reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon 
 the dollar. 
 
 For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received 
 at Yoku-hama, and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid 
 Moryama Yenoske, Imperial interpreter, $350 in gold and 
 silver, that they might he assayed and tested at Tedo, they 
 consent to receive the dollar at the valuation now placed on 
 them — that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver 
 dollar. 
 
 We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be de- 
 livered to vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties 
 or 100 piculs have arrived ; and this, at the rate of 1,680 
 catties to a ton of 2,240 pounds, or 16| piculs, costs 262 
 taels 6 mace 5 candareens 3 cash, or $164 16; making the 
 rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese state that the price 
 of coal would be considerably reduced as the demand for it 
 increased, and their facilities for mining became more 
 perfect. 
 
 In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to 
 Messrs. Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters 
 were indispensable, and from whom we received important 
 aid in our investigations. 
 
 We have the honor to be respectfully, your obedient 
 servants, 
 
 WILLIAM SPEIDEN, 
 
 Purser U. S. Navij. 
 J. C. ELDKEDGE, 
 
 Purser U. 8. Navy. 
 Commodore M. C. Pekey, 
 
 Commander-in-chief U. S. Naval Forces in the 
 
 East India and China Seas. 
 
APPENDIX. 413 
 
 JAPANESE GAME OF SHO-HO-Y^, ANALOGOUS TO OUR 
 GAME OF CHESS. 
 
 This game is played by two persons, with forty pieces, 
 (twenty on either side,) and upon a chequer board of eighty 
 one squares, (nine upon each side.) The board is of one 
 uniform color, though the squares might bo colored, as with 
 us, for the sake of convenience. The pieces are also of one 
 uniform color, as they are used (at pleasure,) by either party, 
 as bis own, after being captured from the adversary. They 
 are of various sizes, are long and wedge-shaped, being at 
 the same time sharpened from side to side, in front, and the 
 names of each piece are inscribed upon it, both the original, 
 and the one assumed, upon being reversed or turned over, 
 (as below.) Each player knows his men, or pieces, by their 
 pointed and thin end being always forward or from him. 
 But they would be more readily distinguished if the back 
 parts of all were painted with some decided and striking color, 
 as that part of his own men is seen by each player only — and 
 if the fronts of all the men were painted of some other color, 
 as that part of the adversary's pieces is seen by either player 
 only. They are laid flat upon the board, (front forward,) 
 and thus their names are plainly visible. They capture, as 
 in chess, by occupying the places of the captured pieces. The 
 King, Oho-shio,hemg the chief piece, cannot remain in check, 
 and when checkmated, the game is lost. 
 
 The pieces are named, and are placed upon the board, as 
 follows : — 
 
 Oho-shio, (King,) centre square, first row. 
 
 Kin-shio, (Gold, or chief councillor,) upon first row, and 
 one on either side of Oho-shio. 
 
 Gin-shio, (Silver, or sub-councillor,) upon first row, and 
 one on each square, next outside Kin-shio. 
 
414- APPENDIX. 
 
 Kiema, (Flying-horse,) upon first row, and one on each 
 square, next outside Gin-shio. 
 
 Kio-shia, (Fragrant chariot,) one upon each corner square, 
 first row. 
 
 Sishia, (Flying chariot,) on second square, second row, 
 right side of the board. 
 
 KaJcuko, (The horn,) on second square, second row, left 
 side of the board. 
 
 So-hei, (The soldiery,) on all the nine squares of the third 
 row. 
 
 The moves and powers of the pieces are as below, only 
 noting, that in capturing, there is no deviation from them, as 
 with us, in the case of pawns. 
 
 Oho-shio moves and takes on one square in any direction. 
 
 Kin-shio, as the Oho-shio, except that he cannot move 
 diagonally backward. 
 
 Neither of the above are ever reversed or acquire difi'erent 
 powers ; but all the pieces below may be reversed, (at the 
 option of the player,) when they move to or from any 
 square, in any of the adversary's three first rows, and there- 
 by they acquire different powers as well as different names. 
 
 Gin-shio moVes and takes as the Oho-shio, except that 
 he cannot move directly on either side, or directly back- 
 ward. When reversed, or turned over, he becomes a Gin- 
 Nari-Kin, and acquires all the powers (and those alone) of 
 the Kin-shio. 
 
 Kiema has the move of our knight, except that he is 
 strictly confined to two squares forward and one laterally, 
 and can in no case make more than four moves as a Kiema. 
 When reversed he becomes a Kiema-Nari-Kin, with all the 
 powers (and those alone) of the Kin-shio. 
 
 Kioshia, moves directly forward only, but that may be 
 any number of steps. He may be reversed upon either of 
 the first three rows of the adversary, and then becomes a 
 
APPENDIX. 415 
 
 KiosMa-Nari-Kin, with all the powers (and those alone) of 
 the Kin-sliio. 
 
 Sishia has the entire powers of our castle, and when 
 reversed, he assumes the name of Bioho, (the dragon,) and 
 acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the 
 Oho-shio. 
 
 Kakuho has the entire powers of our bishop, and when 
 reversed, he assumes the name of Riome, (the dragoness,) 
 and acquires, in addition to his former moves, all those of the 
 Oho-shio. 
 
 Ho moves forward one step only at a time, fod may be 
 reversed upon either of the first three rows of the adversary; 
 when so reversed, he becomes a Ho-Nari-Kin, and acquires 
 all the powers of the Kin-shio. 
 
 Besides the preceding moves and powers, any piece which 
 has been taken may be replaced upon the board, at the dis- 
 cretion of the captor, as follows, viz. : when it is his move, 
 instead of moving one of his men, he can replace any one of 
 the captured pieces upon any unoccupied square whatever, 
 observing to keep that side up to which it was entitled ori- 
 ginally ; but it may be reversed at any move thereafter, if to 
 or from any square in the before-mentioned three first rowa 
 of the adversary, and observing further, that he cannot re- 
 place a Ho, (or soldier,) on any column upon which there is 
 already one of his own, i. e., he cannot double a Ho, (or 
 soldier.) 
 
 It may be further stated, that no piece can pass over the 
 head of any other piece in its move, except the Kiema.