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 community calls for more efficient means of diffusing it. The Popular 
 Science Monthly has been started to promote this object, and supplies a 
 want met by ho other periodical in the United States. 
 
 It contains instructive.and attractive articles, and abstracts of articles, 
 original, selected, and illustrated, from the leading scientific men of differ- 
 ent countries, giving the latest interpretations of natural phenomena, ex- 
 plaining the appUcations of science to the practical arts, and to the opera- 
 tions of domestic life. 
 
 It is designed to give especial prominence to those branches of science 
 which help to a better understanding of the nature of man ; to present the 
 daims of scientific education ; and the bearings of science upon questions 
 of society and government. How the various subjects of current opinion 
 are affected by the advance of scientific inquiry will also be considered. 
 
 In its literary character, this periodical aims to be popular, without be- 
 mg superficial, and £^peals to the intelligent reading-classes of the commu- 
 nity. It seeks to procure authentic statements from men who know their 
 subjects, and who will address the non-scientific public for purposes of ex- 
 position and explanation. 
 
 It will have contributions from Herbert Spencer, Professor Huxley, 
 ]^rofessor Tyndall, Mr. Darwin, and other writers identified with specu- 
 Utive thought and scientific investigation. 
 
 ' THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY is published in a large 
 octavo, handsomely printed en clear type. Terms, Five Dollars per annum, 
 or Fifty Cents per copy. 
 
 OPINIONfi OF THE PRESS. 
 
 "Just lihe publication needed at the present day." — Montreal Gazette. 
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 I " In our opinion, the right idea has been happily hit in the plan of this new monthly." 
 —^Buffalo Courier. 
 
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 this country." — N. V, Tribune, 
 
 IMPORTANT TO CLUBS. 
 
 The Popular SasNC^ Monthly will be supplied at reduced rates with any periodi- 
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APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 AMERICAJV^ TRAVEL. 
 
 BEING A COMPLETE GUIDE TUEOUGn 
 
 MARYLAND, DELAWAKE, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, VIRGINIA, NORTH 
 
 CAROLINA, SOUTH CAROLINA, GEORGIA, FLORIDA, ALABAMA, 
 
 MISSISSIPPI, LOUISIANA, TEXAS, ARKANSAS, TENNESSEE, 
 
 AND KENTUCKY, AND TO THE OHIO AND 
 
 MISSISSIPPI RIVERS. 
 
 Wlin TTTLL DESCBIPTITE SKETCHES OF 
 
 THE CITIES, TOWNS, WATEEFAILS, BATTLE-FIELDS, MOUNTAINS, EITEES, 
 
 LAKES, niTNTING AND FISniNO GROUNDS, -WATEEING-PLACBS, 6UM- 
 
 MEE KES0ET8, AS^D ALL SCENES AND OBJECTS OF 
 
 INTEKEST WITHIN TUE DISTEIOT NAMED. 
 
 COMPILED AND EDITED BT 
 
 CHARLES H. JONES. 
 
 Revised for Autumn of 1873. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 D, APPLE TON AND COMPANY, 
 
 649 & 551 BROADWAY. 
 
 LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON. 
 
 1874. 
 ■R 
 
Khteked, according to Act of Congress, in tho year 1871, by D. APPLETON & COMPAlStT, 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington. 
 
 EsTEBED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by D. APPLETON & COMPANT, 
 in tho OiBce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
TO THE TEAYELLER. 
 
 This is a companion-volume to the Hand-Book of Teavel, Northern 
 and Eastern Tour, and the Hand-Book of Teavel, Western Tour. Each 
 of the three parts of the work is a separate and complete volume, and all 
 of them together form a general guide to every portion of the United States. 
 
 The present Volume, though hased upon the eld edition of the Southern 
 Tour, is in all respects a new work, and is far more complete and compre- 
 hensive than any guide to the Southern States has hitherto heen made. A 
 mere comparison of the two books will show what enormous strides those 
 States have recently made in the way Of material growth, and especially 
 how rapid has been the expansion of the railway system during the few 
 years since the war. The old lines have been completely reconstructed, 
 new ones have been built with astonishing rapidity, and there is scarcely 
 any portion of the South to-day which cannot be reached by railway. 
 
 The plan of this book is very simple, and will be readily understood by 
 the aid of the Table of Contents and the Index. Every one of the Southern 
 States from Maryland to Texas, and from Texas to Kentucky, is briefly 
 ^ sketched as to its most important and attractive features, and every line of 
 railway is fully described. In addition to this, the " Outlines of Through 
 Routes" lay before the traveller all the available methods of reaching any 
 important point, and enable him to select his route before he starts. In 
 the preparation of the volume, the design has been to make it a complete 
 guide to the Southern States ; but, apart from the special value it possesses 
 for the traveller, it is hoped that it will be found useful as a general gazetteer 
 of the country it pm-ports to cover, and also as a nearly complete record 
 of the leading military events of the late .war. The Editor has not confined 
 himself to the usual "guide-book information," but has gathered together 
 and described all the interesting features of the country traversed, whether 
 topographical, legendaiy, or historical. 
 
 Passengers from New York and the Eastern States, in making the 
 " Southern Tour," will find it best to start from Baltimore or Washing- 
 
iv TO THE TRAVELLER. 
 
 ton, and make the detour of the Atlantic and Gulf States, via Kichmond, 
 Charleston, Savannah, Mobile, and New Orleans, Those from the "West 
 can reach the South either by the Sliort Zine from Cincinnati to Louisville 
 and Nashville, or by steamer down the Ohio and Mississippi Eivers. All 
 of these routes connect at various points with the entire railway system of 
 the South, and the traveller can arrange the details of his tour for himself, 
 finding all the information he needs in the body of the Hand-Book. 
 
 The cost of travelling by rail in the Southern States is about five cents 
 per mile. Children imder twelve years of age are generally charged for at 
 half price, and those under five years of age are passed free. Sleeping-cars 
 are run on all through-trains, and on most of the lines may be engaged;in 
 advance for the entire distance from New York to New Orleans at the usual 
 charges. From $2 to $3 per day (24 hours) is generally charged for the use 
 of sleeping-cars. The average speed on express trains is about thirty miles 
 an hour. Travel on steamboats is somewhat less expensive, and less expe- 
 ditious than by raU. i 
 
 The charge, at first-class hotels throughout the United States, is frim 
 $4 to $4.50 per day. Board by the week is generally to be had at a loTiler 
 price. The cost of meals while travelling may be estimated at from $2 to 
 $3 per day. The best hotels in the various cities and towns are designated 
 in their proper places in the body of the Guide. 
 
 It is the custom in America to deliver baggage to a person known as 
 the baggage-master, who will give in return a " check" for every piece, j^n 
 presentation of which the baggage is delivered. Baggage may be checked 
 over long routes in this way, and the traveller, no matter how many times 
 he changes cars or vehicles, has no concern about his trunks. The com- 
 panies are responsible if the baggage should he injured or lost, the check 
 being evidence of delivery into their hands. The traveller, arriving at the 
 station, should first procure his ticket at the ticket-oflBce, and then, pro- 
 ceeding to the baggage-car, or proper station of the baggage-master, have 
 his trunks checked. The baggage-master usually requires the travelleE to 
 exhibit his ticket before he will check the trunks. Arriving at his destina- 
 tion, the check may be handed to the hotel-porter, always in waiting, who 
 will procure the various articles, and have them sent to the hotel. The 
 traveller in the United States, by the system now in vogue, is almost en- 
 tirely relieved from any care or concern about his luggage. 
 
 It is not necessary to fee porters and waiters in the States, as it is in 
 Europe, but the practice has some slight and irregular observance. The 
 traveller is free to do as he pleases in the matter. Nothing of the kind is 
 ever demanded. In all large cities there are coaches and omnibuses at the 
 station on the arrival of every train, which connect directly with the prin- 
 cipal hotels. A small charge is made for this conveyance, which, in some 
 
TO THE TRAVELLER. V 
 
 cases, is paid to the omnibus porter, and in others is regularly charged to 
 the traveller in the hotel bUl. 
 
 Travellers' from abroad will understand that the present currency in the 
 TJnited States, -with, the exception of California, is exclusively bank-notes. 
 These are issues of the national Treasury, commonly known as green-lacks, 
 and the notes of the national banks. They are taken everywhere without 
 hesitation, and serve every practical purpose of coin. All prices are under- 
 stood to be in this currency, which is at a discount for gold ; or, as the 
 phrase is here, gold is at a premium — now (September, 1873), of about 
 twelve per cent. In the British Provinces, the circulating medium is coin, 
 or the notes of the local banks, which are at par. In California, gold and 
 silver are generally used, though bank-notes are coming into circulation. 
 
 As regards outfit, it is important for the traveller that he should be 
 dressed with sufficient warmth. Our climate is very changeable, and the 
 traveller had better suffer at noonday under too much clothing, than expose 
 himself at night, in storms, or to sudden changes of the atmosphere, with 
 too little. One should wear woollen under-clothing, and always have a 
 shawl or extra wrapper of some kind. The traveller's own judgment will 
 suggest to him that strong suits of gray or brown are more convenient and 
 suitable than darker colors. 
 
 No pains have been spared to make the IIand-Book accurate and com- 
 plete in every particular, and the present edition has been thoroughly re- 
 vised and brought up to date of September, 18T3. Notwithstanding tliis, 
 however, so great is the complexity of the task, some errors will probably 
 be found in it, and some omissions. It is hoped that the detector of these 
 will call them to the attention of the Editor, in order that he may cor- 
 j;ect them in future editions. Communications should be addressed to the 
 Editok oe Appletons' Hahd-Book op Teavkl, care of D. Appleton & Co., 
 New York. 
 
 I *^* In addition to the Hattd-Book of Tbavel, the traveller will need a 
 copy of ArrLETONs' Kailwat Guide, published semi-monthly, with time- 
 tables corrected to date, pricp twenty-five cents. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 so U T HEB N TOUB. 
 
 PAB« 
 
 TO THE TRAVELLER iu 
 
 MARYLAND l' 
 
 Baltimore 8 
 
 Route 1. — Baltimore to Cincinnati, 14 
 
 IL — Baltimore to Waslilngton, via Baltimore & Ohio Railway. 23 
 
 ni. — ^Baltimore to Washington, via Baltimore & Potomac Railway. . . 24 
 
 IV. — ^Baltimore to Wilmington 24 
 
 V. — ^Baltimore to Harrisburg, Pa 24 
 
 VL — ^Baltimore to Hagerstown 26 
 
 VII.— Baltimore to Norfolk, Va 2T 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 28 
 
 Washington City 28 
 
 Georgetown 41 
 
 Arlington 42 
 
 Mount Vernon 43 
 
 DELAWARE 45 
 
 Route I. — Wilmington to Baltimore 46 
 
 " II. — Philadelphia to the Eastern Shore 49 
 
 VIRGINIA ; 51 
 
 Richmond 5T 
 
 Route I. — Baltimore to Strasburg 62 
 
 " II. — ^Washington to Harrisonburg 62 
 
 " III. — ^Alexandria to Winchester 64 
 
 " IV.— Washington to Weldon, N. C 67 
 
 " V. — Richmond to Norfolk, via James River 68 
 
 " VI. — Richmond to Norfolk, via Richmond & Petersburg and Atlantic, 
 
 Mississippi & Ohio Railways 69 
 
 " VII.— Richmond to Yorktovm 10 
 
 " VIII. — Richmond to Fredericksburg '. 74 
 
 " IX. — Richmond to Williamsburg 77 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 VIRGINIA : -paoi 
 
 EouTE X. — Biclimond to White Sulphur Springs 78 
 
 " XI.— Kichmond to Greensboro, N. 80 
 
 " XII. — Eichmond to Lynchburg. 81 
 
 " XIII.— Washington to Lynchburg 83 
 
 " XIV.— Lynchburg to Bristol 86 
 
 " XV.— Parkersburg, W. Va., to Wheeling, W. Va 89 
 
 The Springs Region 90 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA 109 
 
 RooTE I. — ^Wcldon to Wilmington Ill 
 
 " II.— Wilmington to Kingsville, S. C 113 
 
 " III.— Goldsboro to Charlotte 113 
 
 " IV.— Goldsboro to Morehead City 114 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA 120 
 
 Charleston '. .121 
 
 Route I. — Wilmington, N. C, to Kingsville .' 131 
 
 " II.— Charlotte, N. C, to Augusta, Ga 132 
 
 " IIL— Columbia to Charleston '. 133 
 
 " IV. — Charleston to Augusta 133 
 
 " V. — Charleston to Savannah 135 
 
 " VI— Charleston to Cheraw. ■ ,136 
 
 " Vn. — Columbia to Greenville 136 
 
 The Mountain Region 13V 
 
 GEORGIA : 140 
 
 Savannah 143 
 
 Route I. — ^Augusta to Atlanta 147 
 
 II. — Atlanta to Chattanooga, Tenn 150 
 
 III. — ^Atlanta to Macon 151 
 
 IV. — Macon to Columbus ISl 
 
 V. — Macon to Eufaula, Ala 152 
 
 VI. — Macon to Brunswick 153 
 
 VII. — Savannah to Albany and Bainbridge 153 
 
 ' VIII. — Savannah to Milledgeville and Macon 155 
 
 IX.— Atlanta to West Point 155 
 
 X. — Atlanta to Gainesville 156 
 
 Mountain Region and Scenery 156 
 
 FLORIDA 161 
 
 How to reach Florida 163 
 
 Route I. — Savannah, 6a., to Jacksonville, Fla., ; 164 
 
 " II. — Quincy to Tallahassee and Jacksonville 165 
 
 " III. — Femandina to Cedar Keys 166 
 
 " rV.— tip the St. John's River 167 
 
 St. Augustine 170 
 
 ALAIBAMA ., ..].' ne 
 
 Mobile , 177 
 
CONTENTS. ix 
 
 itABAMA : paob 
 
 Route I. — ilobile to West Point, Ga 179 
 
 " II.— Mobile to Columbus, Ky. 180 
 
 " Illi— Mobile to New Orleans 180 
 
 " IV.— Selma to Dalton, Ga ; 180 
 
 " V. — Selma to Meridian, Miss 181 
 
 " Vl.^Cliattanooga, Tenn., to Meridian 182 
 
 " VII. — Chattanooga to Memphis, Tenn 183 
 
 TheHillKegion 184 
 
 MISSISSIPPI 185 
 
 EouTE I. — Columbus, Ky., to Mobile, Ala 186 
 
 " IL— Humboldt, Tenn., to New Orleans 18*7 
 
 " III. — Memphis to New Orleans 188 
 
 " IV. — Viclisburg to Meridian 189 
 
 " V. — ^New Orleans to Mobile 190 
 
 LOUISIANA 191 
 
 New Orleans 192 
 
 Route I. — New Orleans to Donaldsonville 202 
 
 " II. — Shreveport to Longview, Tex 202 
 
 " III.— Vicksburg to Monroe 202 
 
 TEXAS 204 
 
 Route I. — Galveston to Houston ., 207 
 
 " II. — ^Houston to Denison 208 
 
 " III.— Houston to Austin 208 
 
 " IV.— Houston to Longview 209 
 
 ARKANSAS " 212 
 
 Route I. — Memphis, Tenn., to Little Rock, Ark 213 
 
 " n.— Little Rock to Port Smith. . '. 214 
 
 Cities 214 
 
 TENNESSEE 215 
 
 Route I. — Louisville, Ky., to Nashville, Tenn 216 
 
 " n.— Evansville, Ind., to NashvUle 218 
 
 " in.— Nashville to Chattanooga 218 
 
 " IV.— Chattanooga to Atlanta, Ga 220 
 
 " v.— Bristol to Chattanooga 220 
 
 " VI.— Chattanooga to Memphis 221 
 
 " Vn.— Memphis to Louisville, Ky 222 
 
 " Vm.— Nashville to Decatur, Ala 222 
 
 " IX.— Nashville to Hickman, Ky 222 
 
 " X.— Columbus, Ky., to Corinth, Miss ; 222 
 
 KENTUCKY 224 
 
 Louisville 225 
 
 Route I. — ^Louisville to Lexington 226 
 
 " IL — Louisville to Nashville and Memphis 229 
 
 " III. — ^Louisville to Livingston 229 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 KENTUCKY : paob 
 
 EoniE IV. — Covington to Lexington and NicliolasviUe 230 
 
 " v.— Henderson to Nashville 230 
 
 " VI.— Elizabethtown to Paduoali 230 
 
 " VII.— Padueah to Troy, Tenn..-. 231 
 
 Mammoth Cave 231 
 
 THE OHIO EIVER 235 
 
 THE MISSISSIPPI EIVEK 244 
 
 OUTLINES OPTHROUGH-EOUTES 263 
 
 INDEX 256 
 
 WEST INDIES 253 
 
 Cuba 253 
 
 Jamaica 257 
 
 The Bahamas 258 
 
 Down the Islands 259 
 
 OUTLINES OF THEOUGH-EOUTES 263 
 
 INDEX 207 
 
The EngUsh first settled the tract of 
 country which now forms the State of 
 Marylajid, the proTmce being named in 
 honor of Henrietta Maria, Queen of 
 Charles I. Maryland is the most south- 
 erly of what are called the Middle States, 
 and one of the most northerly of the late 
 slave-holding States. It is one of the orig- 
 inal thirteen, ratifying the constitution on 
 the 28th of April, 1^88. The first settlers, 
 led by Leonard Calvert, brother of Lord 
 Baltimore, founded the town of St. Ma- 
 ry's in 1634. The colony was one of the 
 first to grant entire freedom of religious 
 belief, although not by any formal legal 
 enactments, as is stated by some histo- 
 rians. 
 
 During the Revolution no important 
 battles were fought in Maryland ; but 
 some memorable engagements in the war 
 4>f 1812 took place within its borders. 
 The State was twice invaded by the .Brit- 
 ish, who were bravely met and gallantly 
 repulsed at the battle of North Point, in 
 the Chesapeake, September 13, 1814. 
 When the Civil War broke out, Maryland 
 stood by the Union. The State, during 
 the years 1861-65, was frequently invad- 
 ed by the Confederate troops, who de- 
 stroyed an Immense amount of property, 
 especially on the line of the Baltimore & 
 Ohio BaUway. The nature of these raids 
 wUl be more fully explained in other 
 parts of this chapter, as the traveller 
 passes the scenes of their enactment. 
 ~ The area of the State is 10,210 square 
 miles, a portion of which is covered by 
 the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, which 
 extends within its jurisdiction 120 miles 
 northward. 
 
 1 
 
 The State is naturally divided into thrj 
 distinct geographical sections. The 
 section comprises that portion lying 
 of the Susquehanna Blver and ^esa- 
 peake Bay, known as the " Eastern 
 Shore," and which contains the counties 
 of Worcester, Somerset, Dorchester, Tal- 
 bot, Caroline, Queen Anne, Kent, Cecil, 
 and Wicomico. The second section, com- 
 prising what is usually called the " West- 
 em Shore," consists of another peninsu- 
 la, lying inland, between the Potomac 
 River and Chesapeake Bay, and up to the 
 line of the riv«r falls, and comprises the 
 counties of St. Mary's, Calvert, Charles, 
 Prince George, Anne Arundel, Howard, 
 and parts of Montgomery, Baltimore, and 
 Harford, an area of about 3,698 square 
 miles. A ledge of primitive rocks, which 
 constitute the leading geographical feat- 
 ure of this section, forms the natural 
 boundary between the alluvial region and 
 the mountainous district of Maryland, 
 which latter constitutes the third section 
 of the State. Embraced in this section 
 are Carroll, Frederick, Washington, and 
 Alleghany Counties, which cover an area 
 of 2,590 square miles, and afibrd some 
 of the most picturesque scenery to bo 
 found in the State. The country upon 
 both the eastern and western shores of 
 the bay is generally level and sandy. 
 The long, narrow strip which extends 
 westward is a lofty region, crossed by 
 several ridges of the Alleghanies. These 
 ranges, with their intervening valleys, af- 
 ford charming landscape passages to the 
 traveller, on the route of the Baltimore 
 & Ohio Railway, and make that highway 
 one of the most attractive of the many 
 1 
 
Chesapeake Bat.] 
 
 SOTTTHEKN TOUE. 
 
 [Cbesafeakb Bat. 
 
 leading from the Easiera cities to the 
 great West. 
 
 Minerals. — ^The hill-region of Mary- 
 land abounds in rich mineral deposits. 
 The coal lands, though not very extensive, 
 are extremely productive. The Cumber- 
 land coal is much esteemed. The coal 
 formation is of inuuense thickness, and 
 its gross amount has been estimated at 
 six billion tons. Iron is also found, in 
 close proximity to the coal. Copper 
 mines have been profitably worked in 
 Frederick, Carroll, and Baltimore Coun- 
 ties ; but, since the tax upon foreign 
 copper, with which the native ore has to 
 be mixed in smelting, have been aban- 
 doned. Harford County possesses valu- 
 able mines of that rare metal chrome ; 
 and gold has been found in smaU quanti- 
 ties in various parts of the State. Ce- 
 ment of the finest quality is abundant, 
 and is being extensively worked. 
 
 Maryland marble, from B^dtimore Coun- 
 ty, is largely used in the public buildings 
 of Baltimore and Washington. The moat 
 complete manufactory of bi-chromate of 
 potash is in Baltimore ; and, also, the 
 most capacious rolling-mills for iron 
 plates. 
 
 BAYS AND EIVEES. 
 
 Xhe Cliesapeake Ba-y is the 
 
 great highway from Baltimore to the At- 
 lantic, which it enters between Capes 
 Charles and Henry, in Virginia. It is 
 the largest bay in the United States, its 
 length being about 2(K> miles, with a 
 breadth varying from four to forty miles. 
 Its depth permits the passage of the 
 largest ships nearly to the mouth of the 
 Susquehanna, at its upper extremity. 
 Its shores are profusely indented with 
 arms or estuaries of the oddest shapes, 
 and with the mouths of tributary rivers 
 and creeks, which abound in fish. The 
 region drained by the Chesapeake and 
 its tributaries embraces an area of 
 70,000 square miles. Among the princi- 
 pal of these tributaries are the Susque- 
 hanna, Patapsco, and Potomac, already 
 mentioned ; the James, York, apd Kap- 
 pahannock, the Elk, Choptank, Chester, 
 Nantiooke, and Pooomoke, smaller rivers, 
 are all more or less navigable. 
 
 The waters of the Chesapeake cut off 
 a large portion of Maryland, and further 
 2 
 
 down the coast a little slice of Virginia 
 on the east. This severed portion of the 
 mainland is known as the Eastern Shore 
 of Maryland and of Virginia. These dis- 
 tricts, in the aside position which they 
 thus occupy out of the great current of 
 the national life, invite the traveller by 
 their unique specialties of social habit 
 and character. KaUway enterprises, city 
 lot manias, and other " general orders " 
 of the day, by which the thought and 
 manner of the country are dragooned in- 
 to universal uniform, and hurried along 
 at forced march, have not yet entered 
 these by-places. Indeed, there may still 
 be found in them, intact, much of the 
 feeling, opinion, and life of the " Old 
 Dominion " of a century ago ; genuine 
 "first families," with awful pedigrees 
 hung up in the weather-stained halls of 
 antediluvian homes ; manorial homesteads, 
 with big doors ever open, and surrounded 
 with lordly acres. The retinues of he- 
 reditary dependents, however, are gone, 
 with the abolition of the slave system ; 
 they and many of the customs and us- 
 ages of society in this locality have dis- 
 appeared. ' The Eastern Shore, both in 
 its material and social aspect, is much 
 changed since " the good old times " the 
 early settlers were wont to boast of be- 
 fore the war, but not altogether for the 
 worse. Here is yet preserved the old, 
 exploded idea, that the present hour, as 
 well as the future, is worth the caring 
 for, and life is considered a thing to be 
 enjoyed, not in anticipation alone, but as 
 it passes, day by day. 
 
 Let the business man, care-worn and 
 wearied, slip down from New York, Phil- 
 adelphia, or Baltimore by one of the way 
 steamers on the Chesapeake ; let him 
 land lazily at ancient Accomac, or there- 
 abouts, and forget for a little while the 
 wrinkling perplexities of cabinets and 
 commerce, in the quiet pleasures of sim- 
 ple, domestic life within doors, and the 
 genial recreations to which he will be 
 bidden without. 
 
 The waters of the Chesapeake, with 
 their tributary streams, are among the 
 most famous resorts in the United States 
 for every species of aquatic game. Birds 
 of nearly every description are drawn 
 hither in marvellous numbers by the 
 abundance of food found on the great flats 
 
Chesapeake Bat.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [CnESAPEAKE Bat. 
 
 or shoals along the shores and upon the 
 river inlets. 
 
 "Above, around, in numerous flocks are seen 
 Long lines of ducks o^er tliis their &vorite 
 
 "There is," says Dr. Lewis, in his 
 "American Sportsman," " no place in our 
 wide extent of country where wild-fowl 
 shooting is followed with so much ardor 
 as on the Chesapeake Bay and its tribu- 
 taries, not only by those who make a 
 comfortable living from the business, but 
 also by gentlemen who resort to these wa- 
 ters from all parts of the adjoining States 
 to participate in the enjoyments of this 
 far-famed ducking-ground. AU species of 
 wild-fowl come here in numbers beyond 
 credence, and it is really necessary for a 
 stranger to visit the region, if he wishes 
 to form a just idea of the wonderful mul- 
 titudes and numberless varieties of ducks 
 that darken these waters, and hover in 
 interminable flocks over these famed feed- 
 ing-grounds. It is not, however, the va- 
 riety or extraordinary numbers of ducks 
 on the Chesapeake that particularly at- 
 tract the steps of so many shooters to 
 these parts, as there are other rivers and 
 streams equally accessible where wild- 
 fowl also abound. But the great magnet 
 that makes these shores the centre of at- 
 traction, is the presence of the far-famed 
 Canvas-Back, that here alone acquires its 
 peculiar delicacy of flavor while feeding 
 upon the shores and flats of these wa- 
 ters." 
 
 " The canvas-backs," says Dr. Sharp- 
 less, of Philadelphia, in a paper contribu- 
 ted to "Audubon's Birds of America," 
 " pass up and down the bay, from river to 
 river, in their morning and evening flights, 
 giving, at certain localities, great opportu- 
 nities for destruction. They pursue, even 
 in their short passages, very much the 
 order of their migratory movements, fly- 
 ing in a line of baseless triangle ; and, 
 when the wind blows on the points which 
 may lie in their course, the sportsman has 
 great chance of success. These points 
 or courses of the ducks are materially af- 
 fected by the winds ; for they avoid, if 
 possible, an approach to the shore ; but 
 when a strong breeze sets them on to 
 these projections of the land, they are 
 compelled to pass within shot, and often 
 over the land itself. 
 
 " Li the Susquehanna and Elk Rivers 
 there are few of these points for shoot- 
 ing, and there success depends on ap- 
 proaching them while on their feeding- 
 grounds. After leaving the eastern point 
 at the mouth of the Susquehanna and 
 Turkey Point, the western side of the Elk 
 River, which are both moderately good 
 for flying shooting, the first place of much 
 celebrity is the Narrows, between Spesu- 
 tid Island and the western shore. These 
 Narrows are about three miles in length, 
 and from three to five hundred yards in 
 breadth. 
 
 " By the middle of November, the can- 
 vas-backs, in particular, begin to feed in 
 this passage, and the entrance and outlet, 
 as well as many intermediate spots, be- 
 come very successful stations. A few miles 
 down the western shore is Taylor's Island, 
 which is situated at the mouth of the 
 Rumney and Abbey Island at the mouth 
 of Bush River, which are both celebrated 
 for ducks as well as for swans and geese. 
 These are the most northerly points where 
 large fowl are met with, and projecting 
 out between deep coves, where immense 
 numbers of these birds feed, they possess 
 great advantages. The south point of 
 Bush River, Legoe's Point, and Bobbins' 
 and Picket's Points, near Gunpowder 
 River, are famous localities. Immediate- 
 ly at the mouth of this river is situated 
 Carroll's Island, which has long been 
 known as a great shooting-ground. Max- 
 well's Point, as well as some others up 
 other rivers, and even further down the 
 bay, are good places, but less celebrated 
 than those mentioned. Most of these 
 places are let out as shooting-grounds for 
 companies and individuals, and are es- 
 teemed so valuable that intruders are se- 
 verely treated." 
 
 Norfolk, Virginia, on the Elizabeth 
 River, at the lower extremity of the bay, 
 is the depot for the receipt and sale of 
 the game taken in the Chesapeake, and 
 there the best purchases can be made. 
 The sport, as all who have joined in it fuU 
 well know, is not without its difficulties 
 and its dangers. Says the learned Doctor 
 from whom we have already quoted : 
 
 " Notwithstanding the apparent facili- 
 ties that are offered of success, the 
 amusement of duck-shooting is probably 
 one of the most exoosing to cold and wet ; 
 3 
 
I'atapsco River.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Potomac Biyeb. 
 
 and those who undertake its enjoyment 
 without a courage ' screwed to the stiok- 
 ing-point,' will soon discover that ' to one 
 good a thousand ills oppose.' It is, in- 
 deed, no parlor sport ; for, after creeping 
 through mud and mire, often for hundreds 
 of yards, to be at last disappointed, and 
 stand exposed on points to the ' pelting 
 rain or more than freezing cold,' for 
 hours, without even the promise of a 
 shot, would try the patience " of even 
 Franklin's ' glorious nibbler.' It is, how- 
 ever, replete with excitement and charm. 
 To one who can enter on the pleasure 
 with a system formed for polar cold, and 
 a spirit to endure the weary toil of many 
 a stormy day, it will yield a harvest of 
 health and delight that the roamer of the 
 woods can rarely enjoy." 
 
 Xhe Patapsco Rifeir flows, 70 
 miles, from Carroll County, in the northern 
 part of the State, to the Chesapeake Bay, 
 which it enters 14 miles below the city of 
 Baltimore. It is navigable as far as Bal- 
 timore for large merchant ships. It is a 
 rapid stream, and is much utilized as a 
 water-power. The Baltimore & Ohio 
 Railway is built along the whole extent 
 of the western branch of the river. 
 
 Vbe Snsqueltaiiuia; River 
 enters the northeast corner of the State, 
 not far from its debouche into the Chesa- 
 peake Bay at Havre de Grace. It is 
 formed by the union of two branches, 
 known as the east and west branches, 
 which unite at Northumberland, 60 miles 
 above Harrisburg, Pa. The main stream 
 is 150 miles in length, and is adorned by 
 numerous beautiful islands and rocky 
 rapids. 
 
 Xbe Potomac Kiver forms 
 the boundary line between Maryland and 
 Virginia. Along its passage of 350 miles, 
 from the mountains to the Chesapeake 
 Bay, there is much beautiful and varied 
 scenery. The landscape at its confluence 
 with the Shenandoah, near Harper's Fer- 
 ry, Virginia, has long been famous 
 among the chief picturesque wonders of 
 America. The Falls of the Potomac, 
 about 14 miles above Georgetown, D. C, 
 will repay a visit. The principal cascade 
 is between 30 and 40 feet perpendicular 
 pitch, and the rooky cliffs on the Virginia 
 side of the river have a very impressive 
 aspect. This river is navigable for ships 
 4 
 
 of the line 200 miles to the Washington 
 Navy Yard. At Alexandria, Va., 9. miles 
 below the Capital, the river is more than 
 a mile wide, and nearly 8 miles wide a£ 
 its confluence with the Chesapeake. In- 
 dependent of its many and varied natural 
 attractions, this noble river is invested 
 with an interest which will forever ren- 
 der it attractive, not only to every stu- * 
 dent of history, but also to every lover of 
 his country. The Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Canal is constructed along the north 
 branch of this river, between George- 
 town, D. C, and Cumberland, Maryland. 
 
 Crops. — ^Besides the culture of all the 
 grains, fruits, vegetables, and other prod- 
 ucts of the Northern States,! Maryland 
 grows large quantities of tobacco. The 
 State ranks, in the producdon of this 
 staple, as third in the Union, and, mea- 
 suring by population, as second. 
 
 The climate of Maryland is variable, 
 but is generally salubrious. The con- 
 tiguity of a great part of the State to the 
 ocean, and the fact that the Chesapeake 
 Bay almost divides her domain, gives her 
 the benefit of whatever mitigating effects 
 large bodies of waters may exert on cli- 
 mate. On the other hand, in the autumn 
 there is much bilious fever, and fever and 
 ague in the lowlands on the borders of 
 the Chesapeake Bay. ,,. 
 
 The sail of the Eastern Shore, andgjpme 
 of the counties on the Western Shove, is a 
 mixture of sand and clay, which, though 
 not very fertile, is easily improved, by 
 means of the marl which is generally to 
 be found at hand in large quantities. 
 Some of the valleya and middle and 
 northern counties are very fertile. 
 
 Timber is plentiful in the State, the 
 principal woods being the several varie- 
 ties of oak, pine, chestnut, cedar, poplar, 
 maple, fir, hickory, ash, beech, sycamore, 
 walnut, locust, magnolia, holly, elm, cy- - 
 press, and cherry. 
 
 The population of Maryland in 1860 
 was 687,049, and in 1870, 780,806. Of 
 this number 175,391 are negroes, which 
 is an increase of 4,260 since the census 
 of 1860. 
 
 Other Statistics. — There are four nation- 
 al banks. Maryland has 96 newspapers ; 
 and the census of 1872 gives her 920 
 miles of railroad. The assessed valuation 
 of property is $423,834,918. 
 
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 MAKYLAND. 
 
 [Baltimore. 
 
 BAIiTIKEOKE. 
 
 Baltimore, in population and import- 
 ance, one of the first cities at:d commer- 
 cial ports in the Union, is handsomely 
 situated upon the north side of the Fa- 
 tapsco River, 14 miles from its entrance 
 into the Chesapeake Bay, and about 200 
 miles, by these waters, from the sea. It 
 is one of the largest flour markets in the 
 country, and has a very large trade in 
 canned oysters and fruits. Built, as it is, 
 upon hill-slopes and terraces, its appear- 
 ance is at once imposing and picturesque. 
 Striking, indeed, to the stranger, is the 
 unlooked-for scene, as he gazes from the 
 water upward, through the climbing 
 streets, capped at their tops by soaring 
 spire and dome, in whose midst, and 
 above all, soars the proud crest of the 
 famous monument of Washington ; and 
 hardly less attractive is the picture as the 
 eye looks downward from these elevated 
 points upon the busy city and its sur- 
 rounding lands and waters. 
 
 The present site*of Baltimore was 
 chosen in 1729, and its name was given 
 it, in 1745, in honor of Lord Baltimore. 
 In 1780 it became a port of entry, with 
 the accompaniments of custom-house, 
 naval officers, etc. In 1782 the first 
 pavements were laid on Baltimore Street, 
 the chief avenue of the city at that 
 period, as at the present time. In the 
 same year the first regular communica- 
 tion with Philadelphia was established, 
 through a line of stage-coaches. The 
 charter of the city bears date as late as 
 1797. The population, which at this 
 date was 26,000, had increased by the 
 year 1854 to nearly 200,000. In 1860 it 
 was 212,418, and in 1870, 267,354. 
 
 The city has many excellences, pecu- 
 liar to itself, the most remarkable being 
 its cleanliness. As laid out, it includes 
 an area of four miles square, and extends 
 nearly round the bay. The harbor is capa- 
 cious and safe, and consists of an inner 
 basin, into which vessels of considerable 
 burden can enter, and an outer harbor is 
 accessible to the largest merchant ships 
 at Canton, Fell's Point, and at the pier 
 of the Bremen steamers. Locust Point. 
 The entrance is defended by Fort Mc- 
 Henry, which figured conspicuously in the 
 war of 1812. The harbor is seldom ob- 
 
 structed by ice, j, fact which adds to the 
 commerce of the port during the winter 
 months. Jones's Falls, a small stream 
 from the north, spanned by numerous 
 iron bridges, divides the city into two 
 nearly equal parts, which are known lo- 
 cally as East and West Baltimore. From 
 Roland and Druid Hill Lakes, the city 
 has a never-failing supply of fine water. 
 The streets are regular and well paved, 
 and the houses built mainly of brick, 
 with marble or granite facings. The city 
 is divided into twenty wards, and has au 
 effective, well-regulated fire department. 
 During the early days of the late war, 
 the city was the scene of much rioting. 
 On the 19th April, 1861, on the passage 
 of Massachusetts troops (6th regiment 
 infantry) through the city, crowds col- 
 lected at the depot and along the line of 
 route, and stoned the cars and soldiers ; 
 nine citizens were killed during the course 
 of the riot and many more were wounded. 
 Twenty-five of the wounded soldiers were 
 sent to the Washington Hospital. The 
 rioting was mainly on Pratt Street, be- 
 tween South and Howard. 
 
 HOTELS, EBSTATTEANTS, AND OLTTBS. 
 
 Hotels. — Barnum's {Oily), in Monu- 
 ment Square, corner of Fayette and Cal- 
 vert Streets, is a long-established and 
 popular house. It contains 325 rooms, 
 and has accommodation for 600 guests. 
 
 The Mdaw Soitse, comer of West Bal- 
 timore and Eutaw Streets, is an excellent 
 family hotel. 
 
 The St. Clair, on Monument Square 
 (formerly the Gilmore House), contains 
 157 rooms, and has accommodations for 
 300 guests. 
 
 Guy's, also on Monument Square, is 
 conducted on the European plan, and has 
 a restaurant attached. 
 
 The Oarrollon, comer of German and 
 Light Streets, with an entrance on Bal- 
 timore Street, is entirely new, and has all 
 the modem improvements, such as steam 
 elevator, etc. It contains about 275 
 chambers, and is six stories in height, 
 without the rooms in the Mansard roof. 
 It is built on the site of the old Fountain 
 Hotel. 
 
 The Moimt Vernon, on Monument 
 Street, near Mount Vernon Place, can 
 accommodate but a limited number of 
 5 
 
Baltihobe.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUR. 
 
 [Balxiuobe. 
 
 guests. It is in the best part of the city, 
 is very handsomely fitted up, and has a 
 good " table." 
 
 The JilaUby, on Pratt Street, near Light, 
 and the Moward House, on Howard 
 Street, near Baltimore, are conveniently 
 situated, and are good houses. 
 
 Kestaubants. — £utcher's, Baltimore 
 Street, above Calvert, is principally vis- 
 ited by ladies, or by gentlemen having 
 ladies under their charge. 
 
 Mennerfs, Fayette Street, below Cal- 
 vert, has ladies' dining-rooms attached. 
 
 Wilson's, Baltimore and North Streets. 
 
 Pepper's, Baltimore Street, above North, 
 and EUon Mall, Fayette Street, near 
 Charles, are popular restaurants. 
 
 Clubs. — Union Clvh, Charles and 
 Frankhn Streets. 
 
 Maryland Club, Cathedral and Frank- 
 lin Streets. 
 
 T/ie Allston (musical and artistic), 69 
 Franklin Street. 
 
 T/ie Maryland Academy of Art (ar- 
 tists and friends of art), 34 Mulberry 
 Street. 
 
 Germania (German) 765 Lombard 
 Street. 
 
 OONVBYANOES. 
 
 The street-car system of Baltimore is 
 excellent, and Mr. Bergh would find little 
 to do here. The car-drivers are allowed 
 to sit, instead of stand, and the horses 
 are well fed. The main lines of the City 
 Passenger Eailways are as follows : 
 
 Baltimore City Passenger Mailway, 
 Madison Avenue, from Northern City 
 limits to Thames Street, every 5 minutes 
 in winter, and 3 minutes in summer. 
 Canton Line connects at Thames Street, 
 and runs to East City limits at Canton 
 every 5 minutes. 
 
 JiVanklin Square, from west end of 
 Baltimore Street to Baltimore Cemetery, 
 every 15 miautes. 
 
 Pennsylvania Avenue and Philadelphia 
 Depot, from Northern City limits to 
 Philadelphia Depot, every 8 minutes. 
 
 North and South Baltimore, from 
 Charles Street and North Boundary Ave- 
 nue, to terminus on Light Street, every 1 
 minutes, passing Calvert Station, North- 
 em Central Railway. 
 
 Camden Station Line (Baltimore & 
 Ohio Railway), from comer of Baltimore 
 6 
 
 and Eutaw Streets to Camden Station, 
 connecting with all trains arriving and 
 departing between 1 a. m. and 11 p. u. 
 
 General office, Carroll Hall, corner of 
 Baltimore and Calvert Streets. 
 
 Citizens' Une, from Northern City lim- 
 its by Lafayette Square, Fayette, and 
 Lombard Streets to Patterson Park. » 
 
 General office. South Street, near Sec- 
 ond. 
 
 Stages run daily to Long Green, Eikes- 
 ville, Franklin, and on the Liberty road ; 
 to Kellville daily during summer, four 
 times a week in winter; to Belair, tri- 
 weekly. 
 
 Hacks, etc. — Private conveyances may 
 be had at the livery stables at reasonable 
 charges. The rates of hack and coach 
 hire in Baltimore are regulated by law, 
 and penalties for over-charging are rigid- 
 ly enforced. From any one point within 
 the city limits to any other, or to or from 
 any steamboat or railway station : one 
 passenger, 75 cts. ; each additional pas- 
 senger, 25 cts. ; each trunk, 1 5 cts. Time. 
 — One hour, $1.50 ; each additional hour, 
 $1.00. Haokmen are required to have 
 the rates of fare posted up in their hacks. 
 
 FEBBIEB. 
 
 Federal HUl Ferry, from City Block, 
 foot of West Falls Avenue. _ 
 
 Locust Point Ferry, from foot of Broad- 
 way. 
 
 EXPBESSES. 
 
 Adams' (freight and package), 164 
 West Baltimore. 
 
 MeClintock's (baggage). South End B. 
 & 0. R. R. Depot. 
 
 Virginia Express Co., 18 South Charles 
 Street. 
 
 Union Transfer Co. (baggage), 148 
 West Baltimore Street. 
 
 Pennsylvania Railway Ticket and Bag- 
 gage Express Office, 9 North Calvert 
 Street. 
 
 TELEGEAPH OFFICES. 
 
 Western Union, Baltimore and South 
 Street. 
 
 Franklin, 21 South Street. 
 
 Pacific and Atlantic, 21 South Street. 
 
 Bankers' and Brokers', 147 Baltimore 
 Street. 
 
 Branches at the principal hotels. 
 
Baltimobs,] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [Baliiuoss. 
 
 TUNNELS. 
 
 The difSfiulty and expense attendant 
 upon the transmission of freight and pas- 
 sengers across the city of Baltimore, be- 
 tween the termini of the various roads 
 on the north and south, has been such as 
 to demand some remedy. The war be- 
 tween the Pennsylvania Railway Com- 
 pany and the Baltimore & Ohio road 
 determined the former company to con- 
 struct a route of its own to Washington ; 
 and, by securing further connections, 
 lately effected, to the South. To accom- 
 plish this, the Baltimore & Potomac Rail- 
 way has been built, and forms a direct 
 route from Chicago, via Pittsburg and 
 Harrisburg, the Fort Wayne, Pennsyl- 
 vania & Northern Central being the 
 roads used to Baltimore and Washing- 
 ton. This road has just finished a tun- 
 nel 7,519 feet in length, passing directly 
 under the city of Baltimore from its ter- 
 minus at the Northern Central Railway. 
 The tunnel cost $2,300,000, and was 
 wholly built in the interest of the Penn- 
 sylvania Railway, which thus opens an 
 independent line to Washington, Rich- 
 mond, and the whole South, with an ul- 
 timate connection and control of the 
 Southern Pacific road. 
 
 Another great tunnel, also just fin- 
 ished, extends some 3,400 feet under 
 ground, with a surface road also. This 
 Is styled the Union Tunnel, and runs 
 from Belvidere Bridge to Bond Street, 
 with an open road thence to tide-water 
 at Canton. The total cost was about $2- 
 000,000. The road and tunnel, six miles 
 in length, will be used by fi.ve other roads 
 — ^the Northern Central; Baltunore & 
 Potomac; Philadelphia, Wilmington & 
 Baltimore ; Western Maryland, and Bal- 
 timore & Ohio, to all of which it af- 
 fords transit through Baltimore, and con- 
 nection with the several roads named. 
 It is owned and built, principally, by the 
 Canton Company, to whose wharves it 
 extends, and cannot fail to be highly 
 profitable. Certain restrictions in the 
 charter secure to all roads connecting 
 the right to its use on payment of certain 
 stipulated tolls. Work on both tunnels 
 was vigorously pushed when once com- 
 menced. The result is expected to prove 
 highly advantageous to the city. 
 
 Soundary Avenue. Built of wood and 
 iron. Crosses Jones's Falls by three spans 
 of 100 feet each, and two of 50 feet. 
 Height above bed of FaUj, 45 feet. 
 
 Charles Street (over Northern Central 
 Railway). Built of blue stone from 
 Pennsylvania ; iron work by Keystone 
 Company. Clear span, 120 feet 9 inches. 
 
 Charles Street (over Jones's Falls). 
 Built of Port Deposit stone. Clear span, 
 110 feet. 
 
 Decker and Soger Street bridges are 
 substantial stone structures. 
 
 Long Bridge affords access to Ann 
 Arundel County. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 Holiday Street Theatre, in Holiday 
 Street, two squares from Bamum's Hotel, 
 is a well-known and popular resort of 
 theatre-goers in Baltimore. It is worthy 
 of remembrance that it is the oldest tem- 
 ple of the Drama in the United States. 
 The first theatrical entertainments given 
 in Baltimore were conducted in a frame 
 building, erected .about the year 1780. 
 The present structure was opened May 
 10, 1814, under the management ^of 
 Messrs. Wood & Warren. It was en- 
 larged and remodelled in 1854 at an ex- 
 pense of $50,000. It is under the man- 
 agement of Mr. J. T. Ford, and has ac- 
 commodations for 1,500 persons. 
 
 Front Street Theatre Comique in Front 
 Street near Gay. 
 
 The Concordia (German), on S. Eutaw, 
 is a well-conducted establishment. Buf- 
 fet, lunch, and billiard rooms attached. 
 Admission to the latter through a mem- 
 ber of the society. The Mvaeum is on 
 the corner of Baltimore and Calvert 
 Streets. 
 
 The New Assemhly Rooms are at the 
 intersection of Hanover and Lombard 
 Streets. 
 
 Ford^s Grand Opera Souse, Fayette 
 and Eutaw Streets, is directly on the lines 
 of the Fayette and Eutaw Street cars, 
 and within a short square of all the Balti- 
 more Street lines. It was opened in No- 
 vember, 1871, and is fitted up with all the 
 recent appliances for corgfort and safety. 
 Its exterior is plam, its interior light. 
 
BiXUMOKB.] 
 
 SOTJTHEEN TOtJE. 
 
 [Baltimore. 
 
 airy, and tastefully decorated. The pic- 
 ture gallery or retiring room is worth 
 visiting. The opera house can accommo- 
 date 2,500 persons. 
 
 The Hdl of the Masonic Temple, N. 
 Charles Street above Cexington, is cen- 
 trally situated, and is one of the largest 
 in the city. It is used exclusively for 
 lectures, concerts, and entertainments re- 
 quiring little stage room. 
 
 In the Lecture Boom of the Peahody 
 Institute, Mount Vernon Place, lectures, 
 scientific and Uterary, are delivered dur- 
 ing the winter by lecturers and writers 
 of established reputation. Concerts are 
 also given on certain designated Saturday 
 nights. The rates of admission are rea- 
 sonable, any failure to cover expenses 
 being supplied from the funds of the In- 
 stitute. 
 
 The Hall of the Maryland Institvie, 
 Baltimore Street, and Temperance Tem- 
 ple, Gay Street, are frequently open for 
 lectures, readings, exhibitions, etc. 
 
 The Art Galleries of Myers & Hedian, 
 46 N. Charles Street, and of Butler & Per- 
 igo, Charles and Fayette Streets, contain 
 some fine paintings. 
 
 The FrivaU Gallery of Mr. "W. T. Wal- 
 ters, at his residence on Mount Vernon 
 PlajCe, is one of the most valuable in the 
 rnit( 
 
 United States. 
 
 CmjEOHES. 
 
 Baltimore has been called a Catholic 
 city, but is not a Roman Catholic city as 
 many people at a distance suppose. It 
 is a peculiarity of Baltimore that shops 
 of all kinds are closed on Sunday, includ- 
 ing confectionery, cigar, and liquor stores. 
 Out of 200 places of worship, less than 
 30 are Roman Catholic. It is stated in 
 the new census returns, that the Protest- 
 ant church sittings in Baltimore exceed 
 75,000 ; Methodists 43,500, Presbyterian 
 14,200, Episcopal 14,000 ; Roman Cath- 
 olic sittings 25,000, giving the Protest- 
 ants more than 50,000 sittings over the 
 Roman Catholics. The value of the Prot- 
 estant church property is put at $3,600,- 
 000, and, the Roman Catholic at $2,080,- 
 000. Baltimore, it is true, has a large 
 Catholic population, but there is no 
 sectarian influence exerted in its public 
 affairs. 
 
 8 
 
 The most imposing church edifice is 
 the Catholic Cathedral, corner ot Cathe- 
 dral and Mulberry Streets. Ifcis built of 
 granite, in the form of a cross, and is 190 
 feet long, 177 broad at the arms of the 
 cross, and 127 feet high, from the floor 
 to the top of the cross which surmounts 
 the dome. The building is well lighted by 
 windows in the dome, which are concealed 
 from the view of persons below. At the 
 west end rise two tall towers, crowned 
 with Saracenic cupolas, resembling the 
 minarets of a Mohammedan mosque. 
 This church is said to have the largest 
 organ in the United States, having 6,000 
 pipes and 36 stops. The interior is or- 
 namented with two excellent paintings : 
 one, " The Descent from the Cross," pre- 
 sented by Louis XVI. ; the other, " St. 
 Louis burying his OflScers and Soldiers 
 slain before Tunis," the gift of Charles 
 X., of France. This edifice, though infe- 
 rior in architectural proportions and cost- 
 ly ornamentation to many other of the 
 Roman Catholic cathedrals and churches 
 in the Union, in the solidity of its con- . 
 struction and massive appearance is ex- 
 celled by none. 
 
 The Catholics have in addition to the 
 Cathedral various elegant church edifices, 
 among which may be mentioned that of 
 ,Sif. Alpliormts, at the corner of Saratoga 
 and Park Streets, which has a spire of 
 200 feet ; and that of St. Vincent de Paul, 
 in N. Front Street. 
 
 The First Preshyteridn Church, situated 
 at the comer of Madison and Park Streets, 
 is much admired for its simplicity and 
 elegance of architectural finish. . It is 
 constructed of freestone from the " Albert 
 Quarries" of New Brunswick, in the 
 " Lancet Gothic " style of architecture; 
 and is one of the most elaborate speci- 
 mens of that order in the country. It 
 was commenced in 1866, imder the su- 
 perintendence of Mr. N. G. Starkweather, 
 and finished the following year. The 
 building is 131 feet in depth, exclusive of 
 transept, and 87 feet wide. The tower, 
 when finished, will be 268 feet — the high- 
 est in the city ; the interior is beautifully 
 and appropriately ornamented. 
 
 The Unitarian Ckurch (First Inde- 
 pendent) is at the intersection of North 
 Charles and Franklin Streets. It is 108 
 feet long arid 78 wide. In front is a col- 
 
Baltiuobs.] 
 
 MAKYLAND. 
 
 [Baltimore. 
 
 onnade, consisting of four Tuscan col- 
 unms and two pilasters, which form the 
 arcades. From the portico the entrance 
 ia by bronze doors, three conducting to 
 the body of the building, and two to the 
 galleries. 
 
 Grace Church (Episcopal), corner of 
 Monument and Park Streets, is a fine 
 specimen of the Gothic, in red sandstone. 
 (3ose by is Mmmanuel Church, also 
 Gothic, built of gray sandstone. St. 
 Paul's Church, at the corner of Charles 
 and Saratoga Streets, is a pleasing exam- 
 ple of the Norman style ; $142,000 were 
 expended in its construction. 
 
 The Charles Street Church (Methodist), 
 comer Charles and Monument Streets, 
 faces Mount Vernon Place, the Washing- 
 ton Monument, and the Peabody Insti- 
 tute. It is built of serpentine stone — a 
 stone of a greenisli hue — ^from Delaware, 
 with outside facings of buff Ohio and red 
 Connecticut sandstone. The front is or- 
 namented with eighteen polished shafts 
 of Aberdeen (Scotland) granite. The 
 main tower is 167 feet ; the side towers 
 110 feet respectively. Cost of church and 
 lot, $300,000. 
 
 The Baptist Church, comer of Dolphin 
 and Eutaw Streets, has one of the best- 
 proportioned spires in the city. It is 
 186 feet high, and though solidly built 
 throughout of Maryland marble, looks 
 light and graceful. 
 
 The JMyd Street Synagogue, Loyd 
 Street, near Baltimore Street, is large and 
 imposing. It has the wealthiest congre- 
 gation of Israelites in the city. 
 
 The Hor Sinai Synagogue (new school) 
 is on High Street, near Fayette. 
 
 PAEKS AKD PUBLIC SQUAEES. 
 
 Druid HUl Park, of 680 acres, is 
 pleasantly situated in the northern sub- 
 urbs of the city. It was. opened in Octo- 
 ber, 1861, and abounds in venerable trees 
 and beautiful shrubbery. It is easily 
 reached from Baltimore Street by Madi- 
 son Avenue cars. 
 
 This Park has much natural beauty, 
 and is one of the chief attractions of the 
 city. The surface is undulating and it is 
 well wooded; the trees are judiciously 
 varied and artistically grouped. Many 
 of the eminences overlook the surround- 
 
 ing country, and from the tower at the 
 head of Druid Lake there is a magnificent 
 view of the city and Patapsco Eiver. 
 The architectural decorations of the Park 
 are few ; its charms chiefly consist of its 
 sylvan and rustic beauty, its secluded 
 walks, rides, and bridle-paths. Its orig- 
 inal cost was half a million of dollars, and 
 since then additional purchases of land 
 have been made. Its yearly revenue of 
 $100,000 is derived from a tax of one- 
 fifth of the gross receipts of the City 
 Passenger EaUway Company. The Park 
 Commissioners serve without pay. 
 
 Union Square is a pleasant resort, em- 
 bracing an area of between two and three 
 acres, at the head of West Lombard 
 Street. It was laid out in 1851 ; a spring 
 of most delicious water flows from the 
 centre of the square. 
 
 Pranhlin Square, comer of Fayette 
 and Carey Streets ; and Jackson Square 
 on Hampstead Street, east of Broadway. 
 
 Patterson Park, on East Baltimore 
 Street, contains about 70 acres, and em- 
 braces the earthworks thrown up for de- 
 fence of the city in the war of 1812. 
 From this Park a beautiful view of the 
 city and harbor is obtained. 
 
 Federal Sill. — From the Signal House 
 on this eminence a fine, perhaps the best, 
 view of the city and surroundings is to 
 be had. 
 
 Lafayette Square, comer of Fremont 
 and Sanvale Streets, is the only square 
 in the northern part of the city. It is 
 surrounded by handsome private resi- 
 dences. In its immediate neighborhood 
 is Harlem Square, not yet completed. 
 
 MONUMENTS. 
 
 Baltimore has been called " The Monu- 
 mental City," and not inappropriately, for 
 its monuments are its greatest ornaments. 
 Constituting as they do, not only a source 
 of much pride to its citizens, but the 
 leading objects of interest to strangers, 
 they command our first attention. 
 
 The Washington Monument is chief 
 among the structures of this kind. It is 
 a very graceful work, standing upon a 
 terrace 100 feet above tide-water, in Mt. 
 Vernon Place, at the intersection of 
 Charles and Monument Streets. Its base 
 is 50 feet square and 20 feet high, sup- 
 9 
 
Baliimokk] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTJB. 
 
 [Baltimobe. 
 
 porting a Doric shaft l'76J^feet in height, 
 which ia surmounted by a colossal statue 
 of Washington, 16 feet high. " The Fa- 
 ther of his Country " is represented in 
 the crowning act of his military life, the 
 resignation of his commission as com- 
 mander-in-chief at Annapolis, December 
 17, 1783. The total elevation is thus 
 312^ feet above the level of the river. It 
 is built with brick, cased with white mar- 
 ble, and cost §200,000. From the balco- 
 ny of the monument the finest view of the 
 city, harbor, river, and surrounding coun- 
 try is obtained. Access is by a circular 
 stairway within. Application for admis- 
 sion should be made to the keeper, who 
 will furnish the necessary light. 
 
 Battle Monument, erected to the mem- 
 ory of those who fell defending the city 
 in September, 1814, is at the comer of 
 Calvert and Fayette Streets, near Bar- 
 num's Hotel. The square sub-base on 
 which the pedestal or column rests rises 
 20 feet from the ground, with an Egyp- 
 tian door at each front, on wljjch are ap- 
 propriate inscriptions and representations, 
 in basso-relievo, of some of the incidents 
 of the battle. The column rises 18 feet 
 above the base. This, which is of marble, 
 in the form of a Roman fasces, is encircled 
 by bands, on which are inscribed, in 
 sculptured letters, the names of those 
 whose patriotic achievements it serves to 
 commemorate. It is surmounted by a 
 female figure in marble, emblematic of 
 the City of Baltimore, the work of an 
 Italian artist named Capellano. The 
 whole height of the monument is 52J 
 feet. 
 
 The Wilder/ Monument, in honor of 
 Thomas Wildey, the founder of the order 
 of Odd Fellows in the TTnited States, is 
 on Broadway near Baltimore Street. It 
 consists of a marble pediment and plain 
 marble shaft surmounted by a statue of 
 Wildey. 
 
 PUBLIC AND PEOMrNENT BTJILDINGS 
 AND INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Public Botldings. — The Exclmnge, in 
 Gay Street, is a large and elegant struc- 
 ture, with a fa?ade of 240 feet. The 
 buildmg has colonnades of six Ionic col- 
 umns on its east and west sides, the shafts 
 of which are single blocks of fine Italian 
 10 
 
 marble, of admirable workmanship. The 
 whole is surmounted by an immense 
 dome, the apex of which is 116 feet above 
 the street. The OusiomSouae occupies 
 the first story of the south wing of the 
 Exchange, fronting on Lombard Street. 
 
 In the northeast part of the building 
 is the Merchants' Bank, while the Rotun- 
 da is used for the dtp Post-Qfflce. The 
 Beading-Soom is a fine apartment 60 feet 
 square. Original cost of the whole struc- 
 ture $600,000. Subsequent improvements 
 have increased this to nearly one million ' 
 dollars. 
 
 The Maryland InstitiUe, on Baltimore 
 Street, near the bridge, is an imposing 
 edifice, 365 feet long by 60 feet wide. 
 The first story of this immense building 
 Is occupied as a place of public vendue, 
 and known as the " Centre Market." The 
 three-story edifice fronting on Baltimore 
 Street contains the library and offices. 
 The main hall, 260 feet by 60, ia devoted 
 to the Annual Exhibitions of American. 
 Industry, Fabs, and other similar pur- 
 poses. It willaccommodate five thousand 
 persons. The cost of the structure was 
 about $100,000. 
 
 The Citi/ Sail will be, -Hfhen fully com- 
 pleted, one of the finest municipal struc- 
 tures in the TTnited States. It is estimat- 
 ed to cost three millions of dollars, of 
 which one million has already been ex- 
 pended. Its architecture is of a compos- 
 ite order, the Renaissance predominating. 
 It fills the entire square enclosed by Hol- 
 liday, Lexington, North, and Fayette 
 Streets. Height to top of centre building, 
 125 feet ; to top of dome, 222 feet. The 
 front is on Holliday Street, and is distin- 
 guished by a massive and imposing porti- 
 co. The building is constructed fire- 
 proof throughout, with Phosuix beams, 
 brick arches, and stone and cement floors. 
 The outside walls are 1 feet thick at base 
 to 5 feet at top, and are built of Mary- 
 land marble, from Connolly's quarry, in 
 Baltimore County, lined with 3 feet of 
 brick casing. Number of rooms in main 
 building 139 ; in cellar 62 ; total number 
 of rooms 201. In the centre there are 
 two courtyards, each 45 feet square. In 
 these are two large ventilating-shafts, 8' 
 6" in the clear, communicating with the 
 corridors on the different floors with 
 flues from every room, giving perfect 
 
Baltimobe.] 
 
 MARYLAIID. 
 
 [Baltimore. 
 
 ventilation. Hot water is used for heat- 
 ing. 
 
 The CoKrt-Simse, comer Monument 
 Square and Lexington Street, Is a com- 
 modious and commanding building, 145 
 feet by 65, two stories in height, con- 
 structed of marble and brick, appropriat- 
 ed to the purposes of the City Courts. 
 It is ornamented with white marble pilas- 
 ters, in the modem Ionic style, and sur- 
 mounted by a cupola of imposing appear- 
 ance. Its interior appointments are ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 The new JT. S. Court-House, comer of 
 North and Fayette Streets, is a massive 
 granite stracture. 
 
 The City Prisons and State Penitentia- 
 ry, fronting on Madison Street, east of the 
 falls, are worthy a visit. The former 
 building, more popularly known as the 
 " Jail," was built in 1857-'60, from de- 
 signs by the Messrs. Dixon, at a cost of 
 $250,000. The building is 404 feet long, 
 and comprises a centre building and two 
 wings. The exterior walls of the build- 
 ing are of rubble masonry, the stone be- 
 ing from the adjacent quarries on Jones's 
 F^ls. It is a substantial and well-ar- 
 ranged prison. 
 
 ,, The Penitentiary consists of three large 
 buildings, occupying nearly four acres, 
 surrounded by a- atone wall 20 feet high. 
 
 The Com and Flour Mxhange, on South 
 Street, comer of Wood Street, is a sub- 
 stantial structure. 
 
 Educational and Chabitable. — The 
 city is noted for its many excellent in- 
 stitutions of charity and benevolence. 
 
 The Maryland Hospital for the Insane 
 occupies an eminence on East Monument 
 Street, in the eastern part of the city. It 
 is a large brick building, with three cu- 
 polas. Mount Hope Hospital, conducted 
 by the Sisters of Charity, is in Madison 
 Street, near the northwestern limits of 
 the city. Near the University, in Lom- 
 bard Street, is the Baltimore infirmary. 
 It is controlled by the Regents of the 
 University. The Washington Medical 
 College, Calvert and Saratoga Streets, has 
 in the same buil3ing the Washington In- 
 firmary. In the western part of the city 
 is the Aged Widows' Home, a new and 
 elegant edifice; near it a similar building 
 lias been erected for aged men. 
 
 The Maryland Institution for the In- 
 
 stracUon of the Blind was incorporated in 
 1853 to bestow the benefits of education 
 upon the indigent blind and those of other 
 States desiring to avail themselves of the 
 superior advantages offered by it. The 
 building on Saratoga Street first occu- 
 pied proving after a few years totally in- 
 adequate, the directors in 1860 purchased 
 an elevated site on North Charles Street, 
 and commenced the erection of the pres- 
 ent building, which was finished in 1866. 
 Its position is high, commanding, and 
 healthy, and its appearance handsome. 
 The building is constructed of rough- 
 hewn Maryland marble with heavy slate 
 roof, and is 160 feet long by 60 feet 
 deep, with a back building 60 feet by 46 
 feet. Cost, $140,000, obtained as fol- 
 lows: State, $111,000; City, $25,000; 
 private subscriptions, etc., $30,000; 
 total, $166,000. It is not an asylum. 
 Like similar institutions in other States, 
 it is for the instruction of the blind by im- 
 proved methods, including a knowledge of 
 music, and of such useful mechanical arts 
 as will enable them to provide for them- 
 selves a support. The term for the edu- 
 cation of charity pupils is limited to eight 
 years. 
 
 The Church Home, formerly the old 
 Washington College, is situated on Broad- 
 way, near Baltimore Street. It belongs 
 to the Protestant Episcopal Church of 
 the city, is superintended by a committee 
 of ladies from the several Episcopal 
 churches, and is endowed for the relief 
 of the destitute, afBicted, and orphans. 
 The elevated situation of this structure, 
 in a healthy neighborhood, overlooking 
 the city and bay, especially fits it for such 
 a Home. 
 
 The Orphan Asylum of St. Anihony 
 {de Padua) and of St. Vincent de Paul, 
 the former on Canal, near Madison Street, 
 and the latter No. 23 North Front Street, 
 are flourishing Boman Catholic institu- 
 tions, with free schools attached. Tiie 
 House of Refuge is admirably situated 
 amidst attractive scenery near the Fred- 
 erick turnpike, about two miles from the 
 city. 
 
 The Almshouse (Bay View Asylum) is 
 near the Philadelphia road, a. short dis- 
 tance from the eastern limits of the city. 
 It is surrounded by a small farm of fifty- 
 nine acres. Its position is a commanding 
 11 
 
Baltimore.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Baltimobs. 
 
 one, affording a view of the city and of 
 the Fatapsco river as far as the Bay. It 
 is built of brick, with a centre building 
 600 feet by 100 feet, with wings at each 
 end 100 square ; both centre and wings 
 being five stories in height. The centre 
 building is used for the worthy sick and 
 poor, and can accommodate 1200 persons; 
 the wings are occupied, the one by the 
 male, the other by the female, pauper in- 
 sane. There is no distinction in admission 
 on account of race or color. The interior 
 arrangements for the health and comfort 
 of the inmates are very complete, with the 
 exception of the great difficulty in obttun- 
 ing an adequate supply of water. The 
 cost of the Almshouse was $1,000,000. 
 It is supervised by a board of five Trus- 
 tees, under whom there is a resident su- 
 perintendent with the necessary staff of 
 assistants, and eight resident physicians 
 and an apothecary. In addition to these, 
 Baltimore contains numerous institutions 
 for the relief and support of the poor, 
 afflicted, and friendless. 
 
 The Boyif Home and the (rerman Or- 
 phan Asylum are on Calvert Street, near 
 Saratoga; Union Protestant Infirmary, 
 comer of Division and Mosher Streets ; 
 Union Orphan Asylum for the Children 
 of Deceased Soldiers and Sailors, comer 
 Franklin and Schroeder Streets ; Balti- 
 more Orphan Asylum,, Strieker Street, 
 near Lejcington ; Sorns of the Friendless, 
 two fine buildings, comer of Druid Hill 
 Avenue and Townsend Street ; St. Vin- 
 cent's Infmit Asylum, under the care of the 
 Sisters of Charityj comer of Division and 
 Townsend Streets ; Seireio Asylum for 
 the Sick, Monument Street near Broadway. 
 
 Near the city are : The Maryland State 
 Insane Asylum, situated on the Frederick 
 Eoad, about six miles from the city, and 
 near the village of Catonsville. The 
 ground belon^g to it was purchased in 
 1852 ; and soon after the large and mas- 
 sive pile of buildings composing it was 
 commenced. It is still unfinished, and 
 work upon it progresses slowly, as each 
 legislature appropriates certain funds for 
 its construction. When completed. It 
 win be an immense structure ; and even 
 now it will well repay a visit. 
 
 The Sheppard Asylum for the Insane 
 was founded by the will of Moses Shep- 
 pard, a wealthy Quaker ; and is on a high 
 12 
 
 and commanding site near Towsontown, 
 seven miles from the city. One wing 
 only is finished. It is built of brick,,with 
 stone facings. 
 
 The St. Mary's Industrial Home for 
 .Sojrs (Boman Catholic) is on the Frederick 
 Boad, about two miles from the city. It 
 is solidly constructed of hammered stone, 
 is 136 feet by 66 feet, and five stories in 
 height. It can accommodate 400 boys. 
 
 The Mmmi Hope Betreat for the insane 
 and sick is six miles from the city, on the 
 Keistertown Boad. It is under the charge 
 of the Sisters of Charity. 
 
 LiTEBABy Institutions, etc. — The Uni- 
 versity of Maryland is at the intersection 
 of ' Green and Lombard Streets. The 
 Medical Department of the University 
 was founded in the year 1807. The GoU 
 lege of Loyola is at the comer of Madison 
 and Calvert Streets. The Ailienceum, 
 which is at the comer of Saratoga and 
 St. Paul Streets, is occupied conjointly by 
 the Mercantile Library Association, ^e 
 Baltimore lAhra/ry, and the Maryland His 
 iorical Society. The Library of the Mer- 
 cantile Association numbers nearly 25,000 
 volumes ; the Baltimore Library, 1 5,000 ; 
 and the collection of the Historical Soci- 
 ety upward of 1,000. Admission to the 
 Mercantile Library from 10 A. m. to 10 
 p. M., to that of the Historical Society 
 from 10 A. M. to 2 p. M. 
 
 The Pedbody Institute, comer of Charles 
 and Monument Streets, foimdedby George 
 Feabody, the eminent London banker, is 
 a massive stmcture of white marble. It 
 is designed for literary and scientific pur- 
 poses, and will contain a fine arts gallery. 
 The Lecture-Boom is admirably con- 
 structed, and has sittings for. YOO persons. 
 Its library numbers 46,000 well-selected 
 volumes, and is increasing at the rate of 
 from 8,000 to 4,000 volumes , annually. 
 Its use is free to any one, citizen or 
 stranger. 
 
 The St. Mary's College, a Roman Oath, 
 olic theological institution, founded 1799, 
 is at the comer of Franklin and Greene 
 Streets. McEmdCs Free School, on East 
 Baltimore Street, was founded by the 
 liberality of the late Isaac McKim. 
 
 The Maryland College of Pharmacy, 
 No. 12 West Baltimore Street. Lectures 
 on Pharmacy, Chemistry, and Materia 
 Medica during the winter months. 
 
Baitimoss.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [Baltimore. 
 
 Baltimore College of Denied Surgery, 
 Lombard and Hanover Streets. 
 
 JIIakeeis. — Lecington, Lexington Street 
 from Eutaw to Pearl Streets.; Hanover, 
 Hanover Street ; Cross Street, Cross 
 Street and Pennsylvania Avenue ; Rich- 
 mond, Richmond and Biddle Streets; 
 Centre, Baltimore and Harrison Streets ; 
 Broadway, foot of Broadway. The three 
 last have fine halls over them. 
 
 CEMKTEBIES. 
 
 Cheen Momni Cemetery is a charm- 
 ing rural spot, about a mile and a half 
 from Battle Monument. The stone gate- 
 way, forming the entrance, at the junc- 
 tion of Belvidere Street and York Ave- 
 nue, and the chapel, are much admired. 
 It contains a number of beautiful monu- 
 ments and some choice statuary, notably 
 the Sleeping Children and the Angel of 
 the Resurrection, both by Einehart. It 
 was incorporated ia 1837. The coat 
 of grounds and improvements exceeds a 
 quarter of a million dollars. City office. 
 No. 1 Courtland Street. 
 
 Loudon Park Cemetery, on the Fred- 
 erick road, about two miles from the 
 city, is another charming City of the 
 Dead. The grounds, which embrace 100 
 ' acres of land, are of diversified character, 
 and admirably adapted for the purposes 
 of sepulture. The gateway is an impos- 
 ing structure 72 feet wide. City office, 
 4 South Holliday Street. Mount Olivet, 
 on the Frederick pike, is a pretty rural 
 burying-ground. An enclosure similar in 
 extent to that of Loudon Park, known as 
 the Baltimore Cemetery, is reached by 
 taking North Gay Street to the limits. 
 There are other burial-grounds in and 
 near Baltimore, two of which are known 
 as MouTvt Carmel and the Western, but 
 they will hardly repay a visit after you 
 have seen Green Mount and Loudon 
 Park. 
 
 WAJEE ■WOEKB. 
 
 Within the last few years the mode of 
 supplying the city with pure water has 
 been entirely changed, and, by a chain of 
 lakes and reservoirs, and an increase of 
 the Water Stock debt to $5,000,000, the 
 City Water- Works are now of the most 
 ample, complete, and durable character. 
 Lake Roland, the parent lake, is situated 
 
 about six miles from the city, on the line 
 of the Northern Central Railway. Its 
 waters appear like those of a river rather 
 than of a lake, as they wind for a mile 
 and a half through a narrow valley and 
 around the graceful natural curvatures 
 of the bold hills by which they are en- 
 closed. 
 
 The lake is indented by so many bays 
 and inlets that it is seven miles in cir- 
 cumference. A conduit, of brick and 
 cement, seven feet in height, runs from 
 Lake Roland to Hampden Reservoir, and 
 from there to Mount Royal Reservoir. On 
 the northern suburbs the water is con- 
 veyed in heavy iron pipes, and reaches 
 the city through its entire course by nat- 
 ural flow. Nearly midway between Hamp- 
 den and Mount Royal Reservoirs, and 
 within the bounds of Druid Hill Park, 
 lies Druid Lake, intended to store suffi- 
 cient water to outlast any failure from 
 other sources. It has a storage capacity 
 of 493,000,000 gallons, and is capable of 
 supplying the city for 60 days, should the 
 necessity arise. 
 
 Public drinking fountains are placed 
 at prominent points in the city. 
 
 The city has also purchased, at a cost 
 of some $350,000, the water rights of the 
 Great Gunpowder River which, by tun- 
 nels and open conduits, will give, when- 
 ever required, a supply of pure water by 
 natural flow, adequate to the needs of 
 the largest future population. 
 
 DBIVES, TV ALES, ETC. 
 
 The favorite drive is to the Park. 
 Charles Street Avenue is a smooth, gravel 
 road leading out six miles through a 
 beautiful country and past many hand- 
 some viUas and cottages. Lake Roland 
 and the Sheppard Asylum for the Insane 
 both lie near its terminus. North Point, 
 at the mouth of the Patapsco, was the 
 scene of a memorable battle, September 
 12, 1814, between the Americans, under 
 General Strieker, and the British, under 
 General Ross, in which the former were 
 defeated, and the latter lost three com- 
 manders. On the following day, Septem- 
 ber 13th, Fort McHenry was bombarded 
 for twenty-four hours, by sixteen ships 
 and a land force of 1,200 men. The as- 
 sailants were repulsed, and the fortresj 
 left in the possession of its defenders. 
 13 
 
GOVANSTOWK.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR, 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 This engagement at North Point and 
 Fort HcHenry is duly celebrated in Bal- 
 timore on each recurring anniversary, and 
 the 3attle Honument, already described, 
 was erected in commemoration thereof. 
 
 OoTaxistofm, four miles from 
 the city, on the York road, has a well- 
 kept hotel. The Cold Spring House is 
 passed on the way. A line of street-cars 
 extends to Towsontown, the county seat 
 of Baltimore County, three miles beyond. 
 
 Four miles on the Philadelphia road is 
 the village of Kingsville and the Herring 
 Jitm, a favorite spot for gudgeon fishing. 
 
 Fort MEcKenry, at the entrance 
 to the harbor, and distant about three 
 miles from the centre of the city, ought 
 not to be forgotten by the visitor to Bal- 
 timore. - It is built on the extremity of a 
 peninsula formed on one side by the har- 
 bor and on the other by the Patapsco 
 River. It successfully resisted the bom- 
 bardment of the British fleet in 1814. 
 
 Franklin, five miles from Balti- 
 more, over a well-shaded, well-laid turn- 
 pike mid attractive landscape.' A road 
 leading southwest from Franklin brings 
 the visitor into the old Frederick turn- 
 pike. On this road are Mount de Sales, 
 the Convent of the Visitation, and St. 
 Timothy's Hall. Returning cityward, a 
 number of beautiful country seats are 
 
 North Charles Street is the most at- 
 tractive and fashionable promenade. On 
 Charles Street, east of Franklin, and on 
 Baltimore Street, west of Jones's Falls, are 
 located the principal retail stores, and 
 thither repau- those of both sexes who 
 make " shopping " the great business of 
 week-day life. In Mount Vernon Place, 
 and the vicinity of the Monument, are 
 some handsome residences. This consti- 
 tutes the Belgravia of Baltimore, the 
 favorite resort of the city's "best so- 
 ciety." 
 
 East Baltimore Street and Broadway, 
 in the other end of the city, afford pleas- 
 ant promenades. Crossing Jones's Falls 
 at the foot of Baltimore Street, the 
 Church of St. Vincent de Paul and the 
 cupola of the Front Street Theatre are 
 seen north of the bridge. Proceeding 
 eastward, the visitor will pass the Second 
 Presbyterian Church, a fine Gothic struc- 
 ture, corner of Baltimore and Lloyd 
 14 
 
 Streets, and many handsome residences, 
 until he reaches Broadway, the boulevard 
 of the East End. Turning southward, 
 down Broadway, he can vfsit the Meth- 
 odist, Presbyterian, and St. Patrick's 
 Churches ; and further on the Fell's 
 Point market-house. 
 
 The passenger depot building, and of- 
 fices of the Baltimore & Ohio Railway in 
 Camden Street, between Eutaw and How- 
 ard Streets, present an imposing appear- 
 ance. The main front on Camden Street 
 is upward of 800 feet long, and is one of 
 the finest structures of the kind on the 
 continent. The passenger depots of the 
 Northern Central Railway, la Calvert 
 Street, and of the Philadelphia, Wilming- 
 ton & Baltimore Railway in President 
 Street, are large and costly structures. 
 
 The Shot Tower, on the corner of 
 Front and Fayette Streets, is a prominent 
 object, and one which always elicits the 
 attention of the stranger. It is 246 feet 
 high, and contains over one million 
 bricks. 
 
 YICINITT. 
 
 The river and shore scenery in the 
 neighborhood of Baltimore offers great 
 attractions to tourists and sportsmen, 
 {See Bats akd Rivers, page 2.) 
 
 For variety of picturesque landscape 
 scenery, combined with the scarcely less 
 important considerations and attractions 
 of memorable historic association and 
 convenience of travel, the Baltimore & 
 Ohio Railroad affords a route which no 
 one making the Southern tour should 
 fail to take. We will make it our first 
 route, taking the tourist from Baltimore 
 to Parkersburg, on the Ohio. 
 
 nOUTE I. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO CTNOINIfATI, 0., Am> 
 TBE VEST. 
 
 Via Baltimore & Oldo BoAl/way. 
 Stations. — Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
 way — Main Line through Maryland, 
 Virginia, and West Virginia. — Balti- 
 more — Washington Junction (connects 
 with Washington Branch Railway), 9 
 miles ; EUicott's Mills, 16 ; Elysville, 20; 
 Marriottsville, i1 _; Sykesville, 31 ; Mount 
 Airy, 42 ; Monrovia, 60 ; Frederick June- 
 
Stations.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 rSlATIONB. 
 
 tion, 68 ; Point of Rocks, 69 : Hagerstown 
 Junction (connects with Wasliington 
 County Division),' 79 ; Sandy Hook, 80; 
 Harper's Ferry (connects with Winches- 
 ter, Potomac & Strasburg Division), 81 ; 
 Dufficlds, 87 ; Keameysville, 92 ; Martins- 
 burg, W. Va., 100 ; North Mountain, 107 ; 
 Cherry Run, 113; Sleepy Creek, 117; 
 Hancock, 123 ; Sir John's Run (connects 
 with stages for Berkeley Springs), 128 ; 
 L. Cacapon Siding, 156 ; Green Spring 
 Run, 163 ; Paterson's Creek, 170; Cum- 
 berland (connects with Cumberland & 
 Pennsylvania Railway), 178 ; Brady's Mill, 
 185 ; Piedmont (connects with Cumber- 
 land & Pennsylvania Railway), 206 ; 
 FrankviUe, 214; Altamont, 223; Oak- 
 land, 232 ; Cranberry Summit, 242 ; 
 Rowlesburg, 253 ; Tunnelton, 260 ; New- 
 burg, 266 ; Grafton (connects with Par- 
 kersbnrg Division), 279 ; Fetterraan, 281 ; 
 Texas, 294 ; Benton's Ferry, 207 ; Fair- 
 mont, 302; Farmington, 312; Manning- 
 ton, 819 ; Littleton, 337 ; Bellton, 344 ; 
 Cameron, 351 ; Moundsville, 360 ; Ben- 
 wood (connects with Central Ohio Di- 
 vision), 375. 
 
 Stations. — Central Ohio Division. — 
 Bellaire, Ohio, 376 miles from Baltimore ; 
 Glencoe, 386 ; Wamock, 388 ; Lewis's 
 Mills, 391 ; Belmont, 394 ; Burr's Mill, 
 396 ; Bamesville, 403 ; Spencer's, 410 ; 
 Millwood, 411 ; SalesviUe, 413 ; Gibson's, 
 417 ; Campbell's, 420 ; Cambridge, 428 ; 
 Cassel's, 432 ; Concord, 437 ; Norwich, 
 440; Sonora, 447; Coal Dale, 460; 
 Zanesville (connects with Cincinnati & 
 Zanesville Railway), 454 ; Dillon's Falls, 
 458 ; Pleasant Valley, 463 ; Claypool's, 
 466 ; Black Hand, 469 ; Clay Lick, 474 ; 
 Newark (connects with Lake Erie Divi- 
 vision and with Pittsburg, Cincinnati & 
 St. Louis Railway), 480; Union, 486; 
 Kirkersville, 491 ; Pataskala, 492; Co- 
 lumbia, 493 ; Black Lick, 499 ; Taylor's, 
 501 ; Columbus (connects with Little 
 Miami Railway, with Cleveland, Columbus, 
 Cincinnati & Indianapolis Railway, with 
 Columbus, Chicago & Indiana Central 
 Railway, with Springfield & Columbus 
 Railway, and with Columbus & Hocking 
 Valley Railway), 609.- 
 
 Stations. — Little Miami Railway. — 
 Alton, 515; West Jefferson, 523 ; Lon- 
 don (connects with London Branch of Cin- 
 cinnati, Sandusky & Cleveland Railway), 
 
 684 ; South Charleston, 545 ; Cedarvillei 
 656; Xenia (connects with Dayton & 
 Xenia and Dayton & Western Railways), 
 564 ; Corwin, 578 ; Fort Ancient, 588 ; 
 Morrow (connects with Cincinnati & 
 Muskingum Valley Railway), 693 ; South 
 Lebanon, 597 ; Foster's, 602 ; Loveland, 
 (connects with Marietta & Cincinnati 
 Railway), 606; Milford, 615 ; Cincinnati 
 (connects with Railways diverging from 
 Cincinnati, and with Cincinnati k Louis- 
 ville United States Mail Line Steamers), 
 629. 
 
 The grandeur of the scenery along 
 the line of the Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
 way makes it one of the most attractive 
 routes that tourists can take, and now it 
 possesses the additional interest of hav- 
 ing been the theatre of some of the most 
 exciting scenes in the late civil war. Our 
 descriptions of scenery and allusions to 
 the incidents of the war must necessarily 
 be brief, but the principal points of in- 
 terest will be mentioned. 
 
 As a grand trunk line, the Baltimore 
 & Ohio Railway is one of the most im- 
 portant in the country. The original 
 road extended from Baltimore to Wheel- 
 ing on the Ohio River, a distance of 379 
 mUes, and was first opened to the public 
 in 1853. Work was commenced on the 
 4th day of July, 1828, and the first sec- 
 tion, from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills, a 
 distance of 15 miles, was opened for travel 
 in August, 1830, the trial trip of the first 
 locomotive being made on the 25th of 
 that month. 
 
 Although commenced at the early date 
 named, it was not until the 1st of June, 
 1853, that the road was finished, when 
 for the first time a train passed over its 
 entire length. The completion was cele- 
 brated by a grand excursion and public 
 rejoicings along the whole line. 
 
 Since that time, by the construction 
 of branch roads, and by the absorption 
 of the Central Ohio and Bandmky, Mans- 
 fidd & Newark Railways, it has added 842 
 miles to its track, and secured direct 
 communication with Lake Erie over its 
 own rails. 
 
 It suffered severely during the war, 
 by the destruction of its track, bridges, 
 and rolling-stock. On the 16th of May, 
 1861, several bridges were destroyed f<nd 
 portions of the track torn up. June 14th, 
 15 
 
Washington Junction.] 
 
 SOUTHEKN TOUR. 
 
 [Mount Aikt. 
 
 the costly bridge at Harper's Perry was 
 wholly destroyed ; and on the 23d of the 
 Bame month 46 locomotive engines and 
 upward of 300 oars, valued at nearly 
 half a million dollars, were burned by 
 order of the Confederate General, Joseph 
 E. Johnston. 
 
 To see this road, and the numerous 
 points and objects of interest tributary to 
 it, the traveller should be prepared to 
 spend at least three days between Balti- 
 more and Wheeling ; a fortnight might 
 well be passed in making the entire dis- 
 tance and returning. 
 
 In leaving Baltimore by this road, one 
 no sooner emerges from the dingy suburbs 
 than the pleasures of the trip commence. 
 Looking back, one obtains a good gen- 
 eral view of the city, and then crosses 
 OarroUton Viaduct, a fine bridge of 
 Jressed granite, with an arch of 80 feet 
 span, over OwynrCs Falls, after which the 
 road soon reaches the long and deep ex- 
 cavation under the Washington Turnpike, 
 which is carried over the railroad by the 
 Jackson Bridge. Less than a mile farther 
 the " deep cut " is encountered, famous 
 for its difficulties in the early history of 
 the road. It is ^6 feet in extreme depth, 
 and nearly half a mile in length. Beyond 
 this the road crosses the deep ravine of 
 Eobert's Run, and, skirting the ore-banks 
 of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now 
 covered by a dense forest of cedar-trees, 
 comes to the long and deep embankment 
 over the valley of Gadsh/'s Run, and 
 the heavy cut through Vinegar HUl im- 
 mediately following it. 
 
 'Wasliiiigton Junction 
 (9 miles) was formerly known as the 
 Rday Souse, from the stages for Wash- 
 ington chan^ng horses here. This 
 name, however, has been changed, so as 
 not to be confounded with a similar one 
 given to a station on the Northern Central 
 Railway. The branch to Washington 
 diverges here. Except as a railway junc- 
 tion the place has no importance. 
 
 At this point the open country of sand 
 and clay ends, and the region .of rock 
 begins at the entrance to the gorge of 
 the Patapsco River. In entering this de- 
 file, there is a fine view of the Thomas 
 Viaduct (named after the first President 
 of the Company), a noble granite struc- 
 ture of eight elliptic arches, each of about 
 16 
 
 60 feet chord, spanning the stream at a 
 height of 66 feet above the bed, and of a 
 total length of some 706 feet. The pretty 
 village of Elkridge Landing is in sight, and 
 upon the surrounding heights are seen a 
 number of pleasant country-seats. 
 
 The roa'd now pursues its devious course 
 up the river, passing the Avalon Iron 
 Works, a mile beyond Washington Junc- 
 tion, and two miles farther we come to 
 an iron bridge of 170 feet span, which 
 crosses the river at the Ilchester Mills, 
 at a very rugged part of the rayine. The 
 Thistle Cotton Factory appears imme- 
 diately beyond, and, soon after, Gray's 
 Cotton Factory comes in view. 
 
 Ellicott's JMUls (15 miles) is 
 in a bold, rocky passage of the Fatapseo, 
 which runs leaping and dashing through 
 the village in full view from the car win* 
 dows. The constantly-changing scenery 
 is charming, and the old town itself is a 
 study for an artist. 
 
 The Frederick Turnpike-road passes 
 through the town here, and is crossed by 
 the railroad upon the Oliver Viaduct, a 
 handsome stone bridge of three arches, 
 each of 20 feet span. Just beyond this 
 bridge is the Tarpeian Rock, a bold, in- 
 sulated mass of granite, between which 
 and the body of the cliff, the railroad 
 edges its way. 
 
 ffilysTille (20 miles) is the site 
 of a large factory, which can be seen 
 from the cars. The road here (within a 
 short distance) twice crosses the rjver, 
 the first time by a viaduct of three spans, 
 each of 110 feet, and the second time by 
 another nearly as long. 
 
 marriottST'ille (27 miles), a 
 small place, noted for its lime-quarries, 
 along which the road runs, crosses the 
 Patapsco by an iron bridge 50 feet span^ 
 and dashes through a sharp spur of the 
 hill by a tunnel 400 feet long in mioa- 
 slate rock. After passing one or two 
 rocky hills at Hood's Mill, it leaves 
 the granite region and enters upon the 
 gentle slopes of the slate hills, among 
 which the river meanders until we reach 
 the foot of Parr's Ridge, which divides 
 the waters of the Patapsco from those of 
 the Potomac. 
 
 nionnt Airy (42 miles). From 
 the summit of the ridge at tnis station 
 is a noble view westward across the 
 
FeETSBICK JONOTIMf.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [Point op Kocks. 
 
 Fredericktown Valley, and as far a3 the 
 Catoctin Mountain, some 15 miles distant. 
 The road thence descends into the valley 
 of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate 
 curves and gentle slopes, except where 
 in some places it breaks through ranges 
 of trap rocks, which interpose themselves 
 among the softer shales. The Monrovia 
 and IjamsvUle Stations are passed at 
 Bush Oreek. The slates terminate at the 
 Monocacy Kiver, and the limestone of the 
 Fredericktown Valley commences. The 
 Monocacy River is crossed by an iron 
 bridge of three spans, 110 feet each, 
 and elevated about 40 feet above its 
 bed. 
 
 The valley of the Monocacy is equally 
 remarkable for its beauties of position, 
 its rich agricultural resoiu'ces, and its 
 mineral wealth. 
 
 Frederick Junction (58 
 miles), better known as Monocacy, is 
 the point of departure for Frederick City. 
 Here the traveller will pass the batfle- 
 grmmd where, on the 9th of July, 1864, 
 General Lew. Wallace and the Federal 
 forces were defeated by a superior Con- 
 federate force, and compelled to retreat 
 to Baltimore. Subsequent developments 
 make it seem probable that the gallant 
 stand at the Monocacy Bridge by General 
 Wallace on that day, and the heavy loss 
 that he inflicted on the enemy, saved 
 Washington from capture on the 12th. 
 
 Frederick: City (62 miles) is 
 reached by a branch from the junction. 
 It ranks as the third city in the State, 
 and is the capital of Frederick County. 
 It is well bmlt, the houses being gener- 
 ally of brick or stone, and the streets are 
 broad, straight, and laid out regularly. 
 It contains a fine court-house, a number 
 of handsome churches, and several edu- 
 cational institutions, among which St. 
 John's Soman Catholic College is the 
 most prominent. 
 
 From the Monocacy to the point of 
 Bocks, the road, having escaped from 
 the narrow, winding valleys to which it 
 has thus far been confined, bounds away 
 over the beautiful champaign country ly- 
 ing between that river and the Catoctin 
 Mountains. 
 
 This range of mountains, a continua- 
 tion of the Blue Kidge, runs west of 
 Frederick, due south, to the Point of 
 
 Bocks. Between this range and the 
 South Mountain, which slopes to the Po- 
 tomac at Knoxville, nestles Maryland's 
 loveliest valley, the valley of Catoctin, of 
 which Middletown, 10 miles from Freder- 
 ick, is the centre. A conspicuous eleva- 
 tion at the termination of the Catoctin 
 range is known as the Sugar-loaf Movai- 
 tain. 
 
 Point of Rocks (69 miles). 
 This station takes its name from a bold 
 promontory, which is formed by the pro- 
 file of the Catoctin Mountain, against the 
 base of which the Potomac Elver runs on 
 the Maryland side, the mountain tower- 
 ing up on the opposite (Virginia) shore, 
 forming the other barrier of the pass. 
 The railroad here passes the point by a 
 tunnel cut through the solid rook for 
 1,500 feet. Two miles beyond is another 
 cliff, and more excavation and walling. 
 Beyond, the ground becomes compara- 
 tively smooth, and the raUroad, leaving 
 the immediate margin of the river to the 
 canal, runs along the base of the gently- 
 sloping hills, passing the villages of Ber- 
 lin and Knoxville, and reaching the Wev- 
 erton Factories, in the pass to the South 
 Mountain. 
 
 The Battle of South Mountain really 
 commenced at a bridge over Catoctin 
 Creek, half a mile west of Middletown, 
 where Confederate artillery had been 
 posted to dispute the passage. After 
 most desperate fighting, the crest of the 
 hill was gained by the Federal troops and 
 the enemy driven into the valley on the 
 west side of the mountain. Tumer^s 
 Gap, where the last desperate stand of 
 the Confederate right was made, is two 
 miles from the base of the mountain. 
 Crampton'a Gap, through which passes 
 the road from Jefferson to Koherville, is 
 six miles south. 
 
 From Sovih Mountain to Harper'' s Fer- 
 ry, the road lies along the foot of a pre- 
 cipice for the greater part of the distance 
 of three miles, the last of which is imme- 
 diately under the rooky chffs of Elk 
 Mountain, forming the north side of this 
 noted pass. The Shenandoah River en- 
 ters the Potomac immediately below the 
 bridge over the latter, and their united 
 currents rush rapidly over the broad 
 ledges of rock which stretch across their 
 bed. The length of the bridge is about 
 1'? 
 
Ht.KF£R's FeBBT.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOXTE. 
 
 [Hakpee's Febrt. 
 
 900 feet, and at its western end it ^vides 
 into two, the left-hand branch connect- 
 ing with the Winchester & Potomac Rail- 
 way, which passes directly up the Shen- 
 andoah, and the right-hand carrying the 
 main road, by a strong curve in that di- 
 rection, up the Potomac. The bridge 
 consists of six arches of 130 and one 
 arch of about 'TB feet span over the river, 
 and an arch of about 100 feet span over 
 the canal ; all of which are iron. This 
 viaduct is remarkable for its length and 
 for its peculiar structure, the two ends 
 of it being curved in opposite directions, 
 and bifurcated at the western extremity. 
 
 Two miles before reaching Harper's 
 Ferry we come to Hagerstown Jtmction, 
 where the Washinfflon County Division 
 of the road diverges. This division, con- 
 necting with the Oumierland Valley Rail- 
 way, affords direct communication with 
 Harrisburg and the North. 
 
 raarper's Ferry, "W. Ta. (81 
 miles), and all its fine points of scenery, 
 are too well known to need elaborate de- 
 scription here. The precipitous moun- 
 tains which rise from the water's edge 
 leave little level ground on the river 
 margin, and all of that was occupied by 
 the United States Armory buildings. 
 Hence the Baltimore & Ohio Railway 
 has been obliged to build itself a road in 
 the river-bed for upward of half a mile, 
 along the outer boundary of the Govern- 
 ment works, upon a trestle-work, resting, 
 on the side next to the river, upon an in- 
 sulated wall of masonry, and upon the 
 other side supported by strong iron col- 
 umns placed upon the retaining wall of 
 the Armory grounds. 
 
 The town is delightfully situated at 
 the confluence of the Potomac and S/ien- 
 andoah Rivers, in Jefferson County, Va., 
 160 miles north of Richmond and 53 miles 
 northwest of Washington. It is com- 
 pactly though irreguUrly built around 
 the base of a hilL 
 
 Besides the Armory, a National Ar- 
 senal was located there. Both buildings, 
 with nearly 16,000 stand of arms, were 
 destroyed by fire, April 18, 1861, on the 
 approach of the Virginia State troops. 
 Southern troops soon occupied the town 
 and adjacent heights, and, by May 20th, 
 the number of Confederate soldiers on 
 the spot was estimated at 8,000. On the 
 18 
 
 14th the point was evacuated. Previous 
 to the war it was a prosperous trading- 
 place, and was known in the early days 
 of Yirginia as Shenandoah Palls. It was 
 once " the garden spot of Virginia ; " but 
 war, though it has rendered it more in- 
 teresting to the traveller, has, for the 
 present at least, robbed it of its claim to 
 the former distinction. It was the scene 
 of the exploits which in October, 1869, 
 rendered the name of John Brown, of Osr 
 sawattomie-Kansas notoriety, still moreT 
 notorious. Charlesiown, the county-seat, 
 where John Brown and his followers 
 were tried and executed, is seven miles 
 distant, on the road to Winchester. Visi- 
 tors to Harper's Ferry should not fail 
 to see the Maryland Heights, Bolivar 
 Heights, Loudon Heights, and the forti- 
 fications which have been erected on 
 them. This was the theatre of one of 
 Stonewall Jackson's most famous ex- 
 ploits, when Harper's Ferry was taken 
 by the Confederates in September, 1862. 
 
 After passing the site of the upper- 
 most of the Armory buildings, the road 
 runs along the outer bank of the Chesa- 
 peake tk Ohio Canal, which brings the 
 water of the river to the works, and soon 
 crosses this canal by an iron bridge 160 
 feet span. Thence the road passes up 
 the river on the inner side of the canal, 
 and opposite the dam at its head, about, 
 one and three-quarters of a mile from the 
 mouth of the Shenandoah, and pierces a 
 projecting rock by a tunnel or gallery of 
 80 feet in length. 
 
 The view down the river through this 
 perforation is singularly picturesque, pre- 
 senting the pass through the mountain 
 at the confluence of the rivers in one of 
 its most remarkable aspects. A short 
 distance above the tunnel, where the 
 river sweeps gradually round to the east- 
 ward in the broad, smooth sheet of water 
 created by the dam, the railroad leaves 
 the Potomac and passes up the ravini of 
 JElk Branch, which presents itself at this 
 point in a favorable direction. This ra- 
 vine, at first narrow and serpentine, be- 
 comes wider and more direct, until it al- 
 most loses itself in the rolling table-land 
 which characterizes the " Valley of Vir- 
 ginia." The head of -E7A Branch is 
 reached in about nine miles, and thence 
 the line descends gradually over an undu- 
 
Eeabnetsviixs.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [North Mountain, 
 
 lating ohampaigu country, to the crossing 
 of the " Opequan " Creek, which it passes 
 by an iron bridge of 150 feet span and 
 40 feet above the water surface. Beyond 
 the crossing the road enters the open 
 valley of Tuscarora Creole, which it 
 crosses twice and follows to the town of 
 Martinsburg. 
 
 At Harper's Ferry the Winchester, Fo- 
 tomae & Strasburg Division, which runs 
 through the celebrated Shenandoah Val- 
 ley, diverges. (See page 62.) 
 
 KearneysT'lUe, "W^. Ta. (92 
 miles), was the scene of many cavalry 
 fights between Generals Pleasanton, Av- 
 erill, Custer, and Merritt, on the one side, 
 and Fitz Lee and Stewart on the other. 
 This part of the road, and indeed the 
 whole region around Martinsburg, includ- 
 ing that town itself, was occupied alter- 
 nately at least fifteen times during the 
 war, by the Federal and the Confederate 
 soldiers, and battles were almost contin- 
 ually taking place in its vicinity. 
 
 From this point, by riding seven miles 
 over the turnpike-road to Sharpshurg, 
 Md., where good conveyances can be had, 
 the tourist can reach the celebrated bat- 
 tle-field of Anlietam, the scene of one of 
 the fiercest contests of the war. The 
 battle was fought on the I'Tth of Septem- 
 ber, 1862, between the Union forces un- 
 der General McClellan and the Confeder- 
 ates under General Lee. The latter was 
 defeated and driven back across the Po- 
 tomac, this battle closing the campaign 
 for the year. 
 
 Although the battle of Ardietam. is 
 spoken of, much of the fighting was done 
 in the village of Sharpsburg, which is 
 situated near the west bank of Antietam 
 Creek, 14 miles south of Hagerstown. The 
 town still bears many marks of the fight, 
 the houses being perforated by sheila 
 and defaced by Mini6 balls. The Lutheran 
 and Episcopal Churches suffered so se- 
 verely that they had to be pulled down. 
 The principal object of interest, next to 
 the battle-field itself, a fine view of which 
 it commands, is the National Cemetery. 
 The plan originated with Governor Brad- 
 ford, was approved by the General As- 
 sembly of 1865, and the grounds located 
 on the site they now occupy upon the 
 summit of the most prominent hill of the 
 range selected by Lee for his line of bat- 
 
 tle. The view is at once commanding 
 and beautiful. 
 
 martinsburg, W. Va. (100 
 miles), is, in many respects, an old- 
 fashioned-looking place, and, except for 
 its war record, of no great interest. It is 
 the capital of Berkeley County, West 
 Virginia, and is pleasantly situated on 
 Tiiacarora Creek, a rapid stream, which 
 affords fine manufacturing advantages. 
 Here the traveller will find the scene of 
 the most destructive labors of the Con- 
 federate troops. It was here, and near 
 here, on the 2Sd June, 1861, that 87 loco- 
 motives and 400 freight cars, belonging 
 to the railroad company, were collected 
 by the Confederate troops under Jack- 
 son's personal direction, and burned or 
 destroyed. 
 
 At Martinsburg the Tuscarora is 
 bridged twice, the crossing east of the 
 town being made upon a viaduct of 10 
 spans of 44 feet each, of iron, supported 
 by two abutments and lY stone columns. 
 The architectural effect of this structure 
 is good. 
 
 During the war Martinsburg was some- 
 times in the hands of one of the contend- 
 ing parties, and sometimes in the hands 
 of the other. The railway company at 
 this point have built extensive shops, fine 
 in architectural appearance, and fur- 
 nished with all the modern mechanical 
 appliances for the construction and re- 
 pair of cars and engines. 
 
 North monntain, "W. Ta. 
 (107 miles), is where the road crosses 
 the mountain by a long excavation 63 feet 
 in depth, cut in the slate-rock, through a 
 depression therein, passing out of the 
 valley, having traversed its entire length 
 upon a line 26 miles in length. On leav- 
 ing these rich and well-tilled lands, we 
 enter a poor and thinly-settled district, 
 covered chiefly with a forest in which 
 stunted pine prevails. There is a heavy 
 excavation and embankment for four or 
 five miles from the North Mountain. The 
 trains cross Back Creek over a double- 
 track iron bridge, 80 feet span and 54 
 feet above the stream. The view of the 
 Potomac Valley is magnificent as one ap- 
 proaches the bridge. It extends as far 
 as the distant mountain-range of Sideling 
 Hill, 25 miles to the west. The immedi- 
 ate margin of the river is reached at a 
 19 
 
Reefing Creek.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cl7IIBEIlLAin>. 
 
 point opposite the ruins of Fort Frederick, 
 on the Maryland side. The fort was 
 built more than a hundred years ago. 
 
 Reefingr Creek, 'W. Ta. (117 
 miles). The road crosses the stream of 
 this name, by a viaduct of two spans of 
 110 feet each. 
 
 St. Joliu's Bun, IV. Ta.. (123 
 miles), was the scene of much warlilte 
 preparation and activity during the early 
 days of the civil war. It is the point of 
 departure for the Berkdey Springs, which 
 are situated at the eastern base of the 
 Warm Spring Ridge, two miles distant 
 from the railway-station, and are much 
 frequented by travellers. The hotel is 
 elegantly fitted up, lighted by gas, and is 
 well kept during the season. Coaches 
 await the arrival of the trains. 
 
 Leaving Sir John's Jtim, the track 
 sweeps around the termination of the 
 Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remark- 
 able and insulated eminence called the 
 " Round Top." Thence on to the cross- 
 ing of the Great Cacapon River, nine and 
 a half miles above Hancock, which is 
 crossed by a bridge about 800 feet in 
 length. Within the next mile it passes 
 dam No; 6 of the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Canal, and soon after it enters the gap of 
 Sideling Hill. 
 
 The next point of interest reached is 
 the Tunnel at Doe Gully. The approaches 
 are very imposing, as, for several miles 
 above and below the tunnel, they cause 
 the road to occupy a high level on the 
 slopes of the river hills, and thus afford 
 an extensive view of the grand mountain 
 scenery around. 
 
 The Paw Pom Ridge Tmmel is next 
 reached, 30 miles from Hancock, and 25 
 miles below Cumberland. The bore is 
 through a soft slate-rock, and is curved 
 horizontally with a radius of 760 feet. 
 
 The viaduct over IMlU Cacapon Creek 
 is 143 feet long. About five and a half 
 miles farther on, the south branch of the 
 Potomac is crossed on a bridge 400 feet 
 long. 
 
 Some two miles above is a fine straight 
 line over the widely-expanded flats oppo- 
 site the ancient settlement of Old Town, 
 in Maryland. These are the finest bot- 
 tom-lands on the Potomac, and from the 
 upper end of them is obtained the first 
 view of the Knobly Mountain, that re- 
 20 
 
 markable range which lies in a line with 
 the town of Cumberland, and is so sm- 
 gularly diversified by a profile which 
 makes it appear like a succession of ar- 
 tificial mounds. Dan's Mountain towers 
 over it, forming a fine background to the 
 view. Soon after, the route passes the 
 high cliffs known as Kelly's Socles, where 
 there has been a very heavy excavation. 
 
 Patterson's Creek, W. Ta. 
 (ITO miles), is at the mouth of the 
 stream from which it takes its name. 
 
 Immediately below this stream is a 
 high precipice of limestone and sand- 
 stone rock, singularly perforated in some 
 of the ledges by openings which look 
 like Gothic loopholes. The valley of this 
 creek is very Straight and bordered by 
 beautiful flats. The viaduct over the 
 stream is 160 feet long. Less than two 
 miles above, and six miles from Cumber- 
 land, the north branch of the Potomac is 
 crossed by a viaduct 700 feet long, and 
 rising in a succession of steps — embrac- 
 ing also a crossing of the Chesapeake & 
 Ohio Canal. This extensive bridge 
 carries us out of Tirginia, and lands us 
 once more in Maryland, which we left at 
 Harper's Ferry. 
 
 The route thence to Cumberland is 
 across two bends of the river, between 
 which the stream of Mietfs Creek is 
 crossed by a viaduct of 100 feet span. 
 
 Cumlierlaiid, md. (178 miles), 
 is in the mountain-region of the narrow 
 strip which forms the western part of 
 the State, and in point of population and 
 trade is its second city. 
 
 It is the eastern terminus of the Great 
 National Road leading to the Mississippi, 
 and is also the western terminus of flie 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. In the vicin- 
 ity are fine beds of coal. Cumberland 
 has a court-house, county jail, several 
 banks, some handsome churches, and a 
 good hotel. 
 
 The company has built at this point 
 one of the most extensive steel-rail mills 
 in the country, for the purpose of manu- 
 facturing its own rails. 
 
 The entrance to the town is beautiful, 
 and displays the noble amphitheatre in 
 which it lies to great advantage, the gap 
 of WiWs Mountain, westward of the town, 
 being a prominent feature of the view. 
 
 The brick and stone viaduct over 
 
Piedmont.] 
 
 MABYLAOT). 
 
 [Os^NDERRT SlTMUII. 
 
 WilTs Creek deserves particular notice. 
 It consists of 14 elliptical arches of 60 
 feet span and 13 feet rise, and is a well- 
 built and very handsome stracture. 
 
 From Cumberland to Piedmont, 28 
 miles, the scenery is remarkably pictur- 
 esque, perhaps more so than along any 
 other section of the road of simi- 
 lar length. For the first 22 miles, to 
 the mouth of New Creek, the Knobly 
 Mountain bounds the valley of the North 
 Branch of the Potomac on the left, and 
 Will's and Dan's Mountains on the right ; 
 thence to Piedmont, the river lies in the 
 gap which it has cut through the latter 
 mountain. 
 
 Chim/ney-Hole Soek, at the termination 
 of Fort Hill, is a singular crag, through 
 the base of which the railroad company 
 has driven a tunnel under the road to 
 answer the purpose of a bridge for sev- 
 eral streams entering the river at that 
 point. 
 
 The curious cliffs which are passed 
 during the first 10 miles after leaving 
 Cumberland ; the wide bottom-lands ex- 
 tending for the next four miles ; the'high 
 rocky bluffs along Fort HUl, and the 
 grand precipice opposite to them on the 
 Virginia shore, immediately below the 
 " Black Oak Sottom" a celebrated farm 
 embracing 500 acres in a single plain, be- 
 tween mountains of great height, are all 
 objects worthy of the notice of the tour- 
 ist. 
 
 The crossing of the Potomac, from the 
 Maryland to the Virginia shore, is 21 
 miles from Cumberland, where the rail- 
 roadj after passing through a long and 
 deep excavation, spans the river by a 
 bridge of iron, on stone abutments and a 
 pier. The view at this point, both up 
 and down the river, is very fine. The 
 BulVs Head Rock, a mile beyond this 
 bridge, is a prominent object. 
 
 Piedmont, ma. (206 -miles). 
 Here the traveller reaches, as the name 
 implies, the foot of the Alleghany Moim- 
 iains. This is the end of the second 
 division of the road, and here are located 
 an hotel and extensive machine-shops. 
 The village stands at the mouth of 
 George Creek, and opposite is the ancient 
 village of Westenport. The Cumberland 
 & Pennsylvania EaUicay connects here. 
 
 We now commence the ascent of the 
 
 Alleghanies. Passing up the valley of 
 Savage River, through the Everett Tun- 
 nel, past the mouth of Crabtree Creek, 
 where, in military parlance, the road 
 turns the flank of the Great Backbone 
 Mountain, we reach Altamont, in Alle- 
 ghany County. 
 
 Altamont, Md. (223 miles), is 
 2,700 feet above the city of Baltimore, and 
 upon the extreme summit of the Alle- 
 ghanies. It is here that the mountain- 
 streams divide, flowing in one direction 
 toward the Ohio River, the Mississippi, 
 and the Gulf of Mexico, and in the other 
 toward the Potomac River, the Chesa- 
 peake Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 From Altamont westward, for a dis- 
 tance of nearly twenty miles, are beauti- 
 ful natural meadows lying along the up- 
 per waters of the Youghiogheny (To-ho- 
 ga-nee) River, and its numerous tribu- 
 taries, divided by ridges generally of 
 moderate elevation and gentle slope, with 
 flne ranges of mountains in the back- 
 groimd. These meadows are known as 
 the " Glades." 
 
 Oakland, IWd. (232 miles), is a 
 place of resort with tourists. It has a 
 good hotel. 
 
 The Great and lAttle Ycrughioghemy, 
 close by, are famous trouting streams, 
 and the glades and oak-clad hills in the 
 neighborhood abound with game. 
 
 The crossing of the great Youghio- 
 gheny River is by a viaduct of iron — a 
 single arch of 180 feet span resting on 
 stone abutments. The site of this fine 
 structure is wild, the river running here 
 in a woody gorge. 
 
 A few miles beyond Oakland, the 
 boundary-line between Maryland and 
 West Virginia is crossed. 
 
 Cranberry Summit, fV.T'a. 
 (242 miles). From this point magnificent 
 views to the west are to be had. The 
 descent of 11 miles to Cheat River pre- 
 sents a rapid succession of very heavy 
 excavations and embankments. At one 
 point the road, after skirting a beautiful 
 glade, enters a wild-looking pass through 
 a deep forest of hemlocks and laurel- 
 thickets, the stream dashing over large 
 rocks and washing the side of the road 
 but a few feet below its level. These 
 are known as the Falh of Snowy Creek. 
 There are also two tunnels, viz., the 
 
Cheat River.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Graptos. 
 
 McQ-uire Timnd ai 600, and the 'Rode- 
 mer Tunnd of 400 feet in length, se- 
 cured by the durable arches of stone and 
 brick. There is also a stone and iron 
 viaduct over Salt Inch Creek 50 feet span 
 and 50 feet high. The creek passes 
 through a dense forest of fir-tregs in its 
 approach to the river. 
 
 CUeat RiTer is a dark, rapid moun- 
 tain-stream, whose waters are of a curi- 
 ous coffee-colored hue, owing, it is said, 
 to its rising in forests of laurel and black 
 spruce on the highest mountain levels of 
 that country. This stream is crossed by 
 a viaduct consisting of two arches, 180 
 and 130 feet span, of timber and iron, on 
 stone abutments and a pier. 
 
 The name of this river well describes 
 its character, which is treacherous in the 
 extreme. The mountains on either side 
 are not sufficiently covered with soil to 
 absorb the rain, and consequently during 
 a heavy mountain-shower the river rises 
 very rapidly. When the rain ceases, the 
 flood subsides as rapidly as it has risen. 
 It thus often happens that what in the 
 morning seems to be only a little stream, 
 a few hours later looks like a great 
 river. 
 
 We next ascend the Cheat River Bill 
 and pass along a part of the line to open 
 which the greatest natural obstinctions 
 had to be met. The difficulties encoun- 
 tered in the four miles west of the cross- 
 ing of the river would seem to be insu- 
 perable. The road, winding up the slope 
 of Laurel Hill and its spurs, with the 
 river on the right hand, first crosses the 
 ravine of Kyer's Run, 16 feet deep, by a 
 solid embankment; then, after passing 
 through a bold cutting, and along a 
 steep, rocky hill-side, it reaches Buckeye 
 Sallow, the depth of which is 108 feet 
 below the road-level, and 4.00 feet across 
 at that level. Then there is more side 
 cutting in the rock, and the passage of 
 two or three coves in the hill-side, when 
 we come to Fray Rim, and cross it, 150 
 feet above its original bed, by an iron 
 trestle-work of light and graceful con- 
 struction, 600 feet long at the road-level. 
 
 For several miles on this part of the 
 line, the road runs along the eteep moun- 
 tain-side, presenting a succession of land- 
 scapes. In favorable weather, day trains 
 stop ten minutes to allow travellers an 
 22 
 
 opportunity to view the viaduct and sce- 
 nery of this part of the line. 
 
 After passing these two tremendous 
 clefts in the mountain-side, the road 
 winds along a precipitous slope with 
 heavy cutting, filling, and waUing, to 
 Buckhorn Branch, a wide and deep cove 
 on the western flank of the mountain. 
 This is crossed by a solid embankment 
 and retaining wall 90 feet high at its most 
 elevated point. Some half mile farther, 
 after more heavy cuts and fills, the road 
 leave/ the declivity of the river, which, 
 where we see it for the last time, lies 500 
 feet below us, and turns westward through 
 a low gap, which admits it by n. pretty j 
 deep cutting, followed soon by a deeper j 
 and longer one through, Camdyh Summit 
 Ridge to the table-land of the crfuntry 
 bordering Cheat River on the west. Here, 
 80 miles from Cumberland, we enter the 
 great western coal-fields, having passed 
 out of the Cumberland field 35 miles from 
 that place. 
 
 Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, and 
 passing by a high embankment over the 
 Bushy Fork of Pringle's Run, the line 
 soon reaches the Sngwood Tunnel, the 
 longest finished tunnel in America. ,Thi3 ■] 
 is 4,100 feet long. It was constructed by 
 Benjamin H. Latrobe. It took five years 
 to complete it, costing $1,000,000. 
 
 Ne-wlmrg, \¥. Ta. (266 miles). 
 From Kingwood Tunnel to this point the 
 line descends a steep hill-side for five 
 mUes until it reaches the flats of RaOcoon 
 Creek, upon which the village is situated. i 
 In this distance it lies high above the 
 valley, and crosses a branch of it with 
 an embankment 100 feet high. There 
 are two other heavy fills farther on. Two 
 miles west of Kingwood Tunnel is Mar- j 
 rai/'s Twnnel, 250 feet long, a regular and > 
 beautiful semicircular arch cut out of a 
 fine solid sandstone rock, overlying a 
 vein of coal six feet thick, which is seen 
 on the floor of the tunnel. 
 
 From Newburg, westward, the route 
 pursues the valleys of Raccoon and Three 
 Forks Creeks, which present no features 
 of difficulty, to the Grafton Station. 
 
 Cirafton, W. Ta. (279 miles), 
 is where the Parkeraburg i)ivisi<m di- 
 verges. It is pleasantly situated on the j 
 Tygarte Valley River, which is crossed 
 at this point by a handsome iron bridge. 
 
Ci.Ai;ssBt;Ba.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [Annapolis. 
 
 Here terminates the third or mountain 
 division of the line. Grafton has a good 
 hotel and dining-saloon. 
 
 Paekersburo Division. Stations: — 
 Grafton, 2'79 miles from Baltimore ; Web- 
 ster, 283; Simpson's, 28*7; Flemington, 
 289 ; Bridgeport, 296 ; Clarksburg, 301 ; 
 Wilsonburg, 30S ; Cherry Camp, 318 ; 
 Salem, 315 ; Long Run, 820 ;, Smithton, 
 825 ; West Union, 329 ; Central, 331 ; 
 Pennsboro', 341; EUenboro, 346; Com- 
 wallis, 351 ; Cairo, 354 ; Petroleum, 361 ; 
 L. P. Junction, 863 ; Eaton's, 364 ; Walk- 
 er's, 368; Kanawha, 373; Claysville, 
 376 ; Parkersburg (connects with Mariet- 
 ta & Cincinnati Railway), 383. 
 
 Prom Grafton to the Ohio River the 
 road passes through a well-wooded coun- 
 try, rich in coal and petroleum. Aside 
 from this, it is very rough and unproduc- 
 tive, and without interest to the tourist. 
 For the most part, the villages are small 
 and unimportant. 
 
 Clarks1>ars, "W. Ta. (301 
 miles), the first station of any conse- 
 quence, is the capital of Harrison County. 
 It is situated on a high table-land on the 
 west bank of the MoTwngahela River, and 
 is surrounded by hills. There are valu- 
 able mines of bituminous coal in the vi- 
 cinity. 
 
 Petroleum, W. Ta. (861 
 miles), is the centre of the rich oil- 
 regions of West Virginia. 
 
 Claysville, ^W. Va. (376 miles), 
 is situated on the lAttle Kanawha River. 
 It has a fine water-power, and several 
 mills. 
 
 Parkersliarg:, TV. Va. (383 
 miles), the capital of Wood County, is 
 situated upon the Ohio River at the 
 mouth of the Little Kanawha. It is a 
 pleasant place and is neatly built. Petro- 
 leum is abundant in the vicinity. 
 
 On January 9, 1871, a bridge across 
 the Ohio to Belpre was opened to the 
 public. The first stone was laid in July, 
 1869, and the whole structure completed 
 on January 7, 1871. It is said that no 
 work of similar magnitude has ever been 
 constructed in this country in such a 
 brief period. Some idea of the labor and 
 expense incurred in bridging the river 
 at this point may be formed from the fol- 
 • lowing statistics : The total length is one 
 mile and 1,762 feet ; the two main chan- 
 
 nel spans are each 350 feet, and are 90 
 feet above low-water mark; there are 
 four river spans, 210 feet in length. In 
 addition, on the Ohio side, there are five 
 spans of 120 feet each; two of 126 feet, 
 and two "approach" spans of 55 feet; 
 while on the Virginia side, there are eight 
 spans of 100 feet; twelve of 59 feet; 
 three of 62 feet, and eleven smaller ones 
 avera^g from 25 to 30 feet. 
 
 The bridge is approached on the Ohio 
 side by an embankment more than a mile 
 long, in the formation of which every 
 precaution has been taken to guard 
 against the occurrence of slides or wash- 
 ing, to which work of this character is 
 more or less subject. The total cost of 
 this bridge and approaches exceeds a 
 million dollars. 
 
 MOUTEII. 
 
 BALTIMOBS TO WASHINGTOir. 
 
 Via Ealtknore t& Oliio Baihcay- 
 Branch, 
 
 Stations : — Baltimore to Washington 
 Junction, 9 miles ; Hanover, 13 ; Dor- 
 seys, 15 ; Jessup's, 17 ; Annapolis Junc- 
 tion, 20 ; Savage, 21 ; Laurel, 23 ; White 
 Oak Bottom, 25; Beltsville, 28; Paint 
 Branch, 32; Bladensburg, 34; Washing- 
 ton, 40. 
 
 This road possesses no peculiar points 
 of interest, although the succession of 
 pleasant country seats and well-tilled 
 farms divests the trip of any monotony, 
 and serves to keep the attention of the 
 traveller liiUy engaged. 
 
 Amnapolis. Passengers desiring 
 to visit the capital of Maryland change 
 cars at Annapolis Junction (20 miles). 
 The distance to Annapolis is 21 miles. 
 The place is celebrated for its antiquity 
 and many historical associations. It is 
 situated upon the Severn River, two 
 miles from the Chesapeake Bay ; was 
 founded in 1649, and is the site of several 
 public institutions of great interest. 
 Among these are the United States Naval 
 Academy, established in 1845, the State 
 House, and St. John's College, which was 
 founded in 1784. Annapolis was first 
 called Providence, next Anne Arundel 
 Town, and finally, in 1708, by its present 
 name, in honor of Queen Anne. Here, at 
 23 
 
SlAXIONS.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Station's. 
 
 the close of the Bevolution, occurred the 
 memorable scene of Washington's resig- 
 nation of his commission, a fine picture 
 of which incident, painted by Edwin 
 White, has been placed in the chamber 
 where it occurred. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO VASBISBTOIT. 
 Via Baltimore & Potomac Baiiroad. 
 
 Stations : — Dqmt on Lafay^te Avenue. 
 
 This is a new road, completed in .Tuly, 
 1872, and its importance can be best ap- 
 preciated by the general public by glan- 
 cing at its raihoad connections. Qn the 
 north it connects with the Northern Cen- 
 tral Railway, Western Maryland, Han- 
 over Branch and Gettysburg EaUroads, 
 York Branch of the Pennsylvania, and 
 thence on the main line to Philadelphia 
 and New York; at Columbia, 12 miles 
 east of York, ' Pennsylvania, with the 
 Beading and Columbia Eoads ; at Harris- 
 burg with the Cumberland Valley Eail- 
 road; to Hageratown south with the 
 Lebanon Valley Eailroad ; at Harrisburg 
 to Easton, Pennsylvania, and New York, 
 via Altoona, thence with the Pennsylvania 
 Central throughout the west and north- 
 west ; at Sunbury, Pennsylvania, with 
 the Philadelphia and Erie Eoad to the 
 west and northwest to the lakes ; also 
 with Sunbury and Lewiston Eoad, from 
 Danville, Pa., to Lewiston, on the Penn- 
 sylvania Central ; also at Sunbury with 
 the Shamokin Valley and PottavUle Eoad 
 to the coal regions (this road is owned by 
 the Northern Central) ; with the Lacka- 
 wanna and Bloomsburg Bailroads; at 
 Elmira with the New York and Erie ; at 
 Canandaigua with the New York Cen- 
 tral, and to Niagara Falls, Buffalo, and to 
 the West by a suspension bridge and 
 Detroit. 
 
 The Southern connections from Wash- 
 ington are over 33 miles of the Company's 
 road, the Alexandria & Fredericksburg 
 to Quantico, Virginia, and thence by ten 
 miles of track built by the Fredericksburg 
 & Potomac Eailroad to Eichmond, and 
 radiating from thence throughout the en- 
 tire South. 
 
 The Stations are as follows : " Stock 
 Yard " (so named in consequence of the 
 24 
 
 great number of cattle pens in the vicin- 
 ity,- loovering many acres). Maiden's 
 Choice, Sulphur Spring, Winan'a, Patap- 
 sco, Stoney Bun, Harman's, Severn, 
 Odenton, Patuxent, Bowie Junction, 
 Springfield, Glenville,- Seabrook, Lan- 
 ham's, Wilson's, District Line, Benning'B, 
 Navy Yard, and Washington City. 
 
 There is nothing of special interest to 
 be observed along the line, beyond the 
 generally picturesque features of a well- 
 settled country. The chief point of im- 
 portance en route is Bowie Junction, so 
 called in compliment to the popular 
 President of the Company, Bx-Govemor 
 Oden Bowie. Here the main track di- 
 verges for a distance of forty-eight miles 
 to Pope's Creek, in Charles County, Mary- 
 land. That portion of the road from 
 Bowie Junction to the Capital may be 
 called its "Washington Branch." The 
 eastern branch of the Potomac Eiver is 
 crossed on a substantial bridge of trestle 
 Vork. The road then skirts the banks 
 of the river, presenting quite a picturesque 
 view. It then enters the Washington 
 Tunnel, 1,600 feet in length, built for 
 double tracks, of solid masonry, with ap- 
 proaches several hundred feet in length, 
 making the entire distance some two 
 thousand feet. On emerging from this 
 the track enters Virginia Avenue, on 
 grade, and passes along its surface to 
 Sixth Street, in Washington, where 
 freight and passenger depots have been 
 buUt. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO WILMIHrGTOK 
 Via Pldladelphia, Wilmtngton d> BdlUmore 
 
 This route is identical with Boute L oi 
 Delaware. {See page 46.) 
 
 ROUTE V. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO MARRISBDRG, PA. 
 Via Northern Central Railway. 
 
 Stations: — ^Baltimore (connects with 
 Bailways diverging); Belay (connects 
 with Western Maryland EaUway), 7 ; Ti- 
 monium, 12 ; Cockeysville, 15 ; Sparks, 
 20; Monkton, 23; Parkton, 29; Free- • 
 lands, 36 ; Glenrock, 42 ; Hanover June- 
 
WOODDERRT.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [GETTYSBraa. 
 
 tion (connects with Hanover Branch), 46 ; 
 Glatfelters, 49 ; York (connects with 
 WrightsTiUe Branch), 57 ; Goldsborough, 
 72 ; Bridgeport (connects with Cumber- 
 land Valley Railway)) 84; Harrisburg 
 (connects with Pennsylvania Central & 
 Lebanon Valley Railway), 85. 
 
 The road between Baltimore and Har- 
 risburg passes through a country of 
 much quiet beauty. The bold hiUs and 
 scattered villages of Maryland, the well- 
 tilled farms of York County, each with 
 its capacious red bam, and the pictur- 
 esque windings of the island-dotted Sus- 
 quehanna, are successively passed, and the 
 cars finally, instead of proceeding direct- 
 ly into Harrisburg, are backed into it 
 over a bridge of great length and height, 
 from which an extensive view of the Sus- 
 quehanna is obtained. There are no towns 
 of any great size on the route except 
 York, Pa. 
 
 W oodberry (3 miles from Balti- 
 more) is a thriving manufacturing place, 
 containing flourishing machine-shops and 
 cotton-mills. A few miles beyond Wood- 
 berry Zake Soland is reached, and soon 
 after Lutherville, the JJutfieran Female 
 Seminar}/ standing prominent in the fore- 
 ground. At Texas are the quarries of 
 the celebrated Maryland marble. 
 
 ¥orlc. Pa,. (57 miles), is a city of 
 considerable importance. It contains 
 some fine buildings, municipal and pri- 
 vate. The country around it is famous 
 for the richness of its soil, its healthful- 
 ness, and the thrift of its inhabitants. 
 Populatio'n, 12,000. 
 
 The visitor to the baUle-field of Get- 
 tysburg or to Gettysburg Springs will 
 change cars at Hanover Junction, 11 miles 
 below York, and take the Hanover Branch 
 road to Gettysburg, 30 miles distant. 
 
 Crettyslmrg, Pa.., the county 
 town of Adams County, and the western 
 terminus of the Gettysburg Railway, is 
 pleasantly situated on a gently rolling 
 and fertile plain, surrounded by hills, 
 from which extensive views of the vil- 
 lage and adjacent country are obtained. 
 It is 69 miles from Harrisburg, and 76 
 from Baltimore, via Hanover Junction. 
 It is reached from New York in one day, 
 by the Jersey Central Railway to Read- 
 ing, and thence, via Columbia and York. 
 The principal hotel is the Eagle, which 
 
 has accommodation for about 80 guests. 
 The Lutheran Theological Seminary, 
 founded in 1826, and the Pennsylvania 
 College, are among the moat prominent 
 institutions of the place. The former has 
 a fine library. The great battle of Gettys- 
 burg was fought on the 1st, 2d, and 3d 
 of July, 1863, between the Union forces, 
 under General Meade, and the Confeder- 
 ate army, under General Lee, in which 
 the latter was defeated, with a loss, in 
 killed, wounded, and prisoners, of 23,000 
 men. 
 
 A day, well employed, will suffice to 
 show the stranger, at Gettysburg, the 
 battle-field and cemetery, while a second 
 and third may be spent in visiting the 
 springs and the several objects of inter- 
 est in and round the village. The best 
 approach to the battle-field is that by the 
 Baltimore turnpike, which leads south- 
 wardly from the village directly to Cem- 
 etery Hill, distant half a mile from the 
 Eagle Hotel. Cemetery Hill forms the 
 central and most striking feature at Get- 
 tysburg.- Here General Howard estab- 
 hshed his headquarters ; upon this point 
 the heaviest fire of the enemy was con- 
 centrated ; and here is most appropriate- 
 ly located the National Cemetery, where 
 are interred a large number o£ the Union 
 soldiers who fell during the engagement. 
 It was known as Cemetery Hill long be- 
 fore the battle, the eastern slope of it 
 having been enclosed and used as the vil- 
 lage burying ground. The view from the 
 crest of the hill is open and extended, 
 affording every facihty for following the 
 movements of the respective armies. The 
 Village Cemetery, sometimes called the 
 Citizens' Cemetery, in contradistinction 
 to the National or Soldiers' Cemetery, 
 which adjoins it, is entered through a 
 lofty arched gateway from the Baltimore 
 road. Following the main avenue south- 
 ward, a short walk brings the visitor to 
 a circular lot, almost covered with stones, 
 which are to be used in the construction 
 of a vault. They present an aspect at 
 once striking and suggestive. They cover 
 the spot selected by General Howard on 
 the morning of the engagement as his 
 headquarters, and the heaviest fire of the 
 rebel batteries, numbering nearly two 
 hundred guns, was concentrated. The 
 marble monument erected to General 
 25 
 
Getttbburo.J 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUK. 
 
 [STATI0H9. 
 
 Gettys, the founder and early proprietor 
 of Gettysburg, occupies a prominent po- 
 sition on the right of the avenue between 
 the entrance and this lot. Standing on 
 Cemetery Hill, the visitor has the key to 
 the position of the Union forces during 
 those eventful "three days of July." Cem- 
 etery Hill proper is the termination of 
 the ridge which runs southward, between 
 the roads leading respectively to Taney- 
 towu and Emmetsburg. Westward the 
 horizon is bounded by the long range of 
 the "South Mountain," beyond which lie 
 Chambersburg and Hageratowu. In the 
 same direction, a little to the right, and 
 rather more than a mile distant, is the 
 Seminary, near which began the battle 
 of the 1st, which terminated so disas- 
 trously to Reynolds's corps. From Semi- 
 nary Ridge, General Lee opened a furious 
 bombardment of the Union position on 
 Cemetery Hill. On the gateway to the 
 Cemetery are inscribed the names (eigh- 
 teen in number) of the States represented 
 by those buried within. The monument, 
 the foundation of which was laid Novem- 
 ber 19, 1863, was dedicated July 4, 1868. 
 It is 60 feet high, and crowned with a 
 statue of Liberty. At the base of the 
 pedestal are four buttresses, surmounted 
 with allegorical statues, representing 
 War, History, Peace, and Plenty. The 
 monument occupies the crown of the hill, 
 and around it, in semicircular slopes, are 
 ranged the dead, each State being rep- 
 resented by a separate section. The di- 
 visions between the States are marked 
 by alleys and pathways, radiating from 
 the monument to the outer circle, the 
 coffin-rows being divided by continuous 
 granite blocks about six inches high, 
 upon which are inscribed the name and 
 regiment of each soldier, as far as ascer- 
 tained. Between Emmetsburg Pike and 
 Cemetery Hill lies the scene of Pickett's 
 bloody and disastrous charge, in which, 
 18,000 men are estimated to have been 
 engaged. Following Cemetery Ridge, and 
 keeping before him Round Top Moun- 
 tain, a short walk will bring the visitor 
 to one of the most interesting spots on 
 this famous battle-field. This is a bunch 
 of wood to which a few of the boldest 
 and bravest of Pickett's charging columns 
 on the 2d July attained. Beminary 
 Bidge, College Hill, Oidp's Sill, Momid 
 26 
 
 Top, and Mide Round Tup, are generally 
 visited ; and WilUmghby Run, where Gen- 
 eral Buford's cavalry held in check the 
 Confederate column under Hill for nearly 
 two hours, is pointed out. 
 
 MOUTE ri. 
 
 BAXTIMOBE TO BAGEBSTOWM. 
 Via Western Marylaml Sailroad. 
 
 Stations : — Baltimore and via Northern 
 Central Railway to Relay : Owing's Mills, 
 9 ; Rcisterstovm, 14 ; Finksburg, 17 ; 
 Patapsco, 21 ; Westminster, 28 ; New 
 Windsor, 36; Union Bridge, 40; Me- 
 chanicstown, 64 ; Blue Ridge, 63 ; 
 Hagerstown, 81. 
 
 The Western Maryland Railway is ex- 
 clusively a local road at present, both its 
 termini being within the State of Mary- 
 land. It is, however, surveyed to the 
 Cumberland coal-field?, and at no distant 
 day will probably penetrate into Penn- 
 sylvania. It traverses the richest agri- 
 cultural portions of Maryland, running 
 through the fertile valleys of Green 
 Spring, Wakefield, and touching for some 
 distance the celebrated Comberland Val- 
 ley. The scenery along the route is 
 quietly rural in its character, except for a 
 short distance in crossing the Blue Ridge 
 Mountains. Iron is found in considerable 
 quantities in Green Spring Talley, at 
 Westminster, and elsewhere along the 
 road, and copper at Finksbury and Ow- 
 ing's Mills. At Union Bridge are the 
 machine shops of the Company.* In the 
 Blue Ridge are mountain resorts, only 
 four hours' ride from the city of Balti- 
 more, which promise to become favorite 
 places of summer sojourn of the Balti- 
 moreans. Starting from Baltimore the 
 traveller takes the Northern Central Rail- 
 way to the Relay House, where the West- 
 ern Maryland Road proper commences. 
 At the Relay, Lake Roland, the first in . 
 the chain of lakes that supplies the city 
 of Baltimore, a beautiful sheet of water, 
 will be noticed. Three miles farther 
 Green Spring Valley commences, and ter- 
 minates at Owing's Mills. From these a 
 slightly undulating and well-cultivated 
 country borders the road to Westminster, 
 the county seat of Carroll County, a thriv-. 
 ing place, and noted for its pleasant social 
 
Chesapeakb Bat.] 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 [Chesapeake Bat. 
 
 life ; and not far from Westminster be- 
 gins Wakefield Valley, and the valley of 
 Double Pipe Creek, after which the Blue 
 Ridge is crossed, and Hagerstown, the 
 present terminus of the road, is reached. 
 Hagerstown is the county seat of Wash- 
 ington County, and is a wealthy and en- 
 terprising city, surrounded by a farming 
 region peculiarly fertile, and conceded to 
 be the granary of Maryland. It looks 
 forward to being in the future in the 
 track of several new railways striking for 
 the Cumberland coal-fields. 
 
 B,OUTE VII. 
 
 FROM BALTIMORE TO NORFOLK. 
 £y Steamer doion Chesapeake Bay. 
 
 The trip down the Chesapeake from 
 Baltimore to Norfolk or Richmond, if 
 made in pleasant weather, is delightful. 
 The steamers of the Old (Bay) and New 
 Lines make trips daily, running through 
 in twelve hours. {See description of 
 Chesapeake Bay, page 2.) 
 
 The points of chief interest seen in the 
 passage of the bay are, the embouchure 
 of the Fatapsco River and the battle- 
 
 ground of North Point, near Baltimore, 
 and referred to in our mention of that 
 city : the Bodkin, three miles distant ; the 
 harbor of Annapolis, 15 miles, still below, 
 and, in the distance, the dome of the ven- 
 erable Capitol in which " Washington, the 
 great and good, set the seal to his sincer- 
 ity, and finished the edifice of his glory, 
 by voluntarily surrendering his conquer- 
 ing sword to the civil authority of his 
 country." At the lower end of the bay 
 are the famous fortifications of Fort Mon- 
 roe and the Rip Raps, protecting the en- 
 trance to Hampton Roads and James 
 River. It is a charming route, also, to 
 Richmond, turning at or near Norfolk, 
 into the mouth of the James River, and 
 following the many devious miles of those 
 winding and picturesque waters. (See 
 chapter on Virginia, for James River.) 
 
 For Norfolk, Bay Line steamers leave 
 Union Dock, foot of Concord Street, 
 daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p. m. Fare 
 $5. 
 
 For Richmond, via York River Railway, 
 steamers leave Pier 10, Light Street 
 Wharf, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p. m. 
 Fare $3.50. 
 
 27 
 
W^ASHINGTON CiTT.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [WisniNOTON CiTT, 
 
 DISTKIOT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 The District of Columbia ia neither 
 State nor Territory, but is a tract of land 
 Bet apart as tbe seat of the Federal Gov- 
 ernment. It was ceded to the United 
 States for this purpose by Maryland. It 
 occupies an area of 60 square miles. The 
 tract originally was 100 square miles, the 
 additional 40 coming from Virginia. This 
 part of the cession, however, was retro- 
 ceded in 1846. The present cities of the 
 District are Washington, the national 
 capital, and Georgetown, close by. Mary- 
 land lies upon all sides, except the south- 
 west, where it is separated from Virginia 
 by the Potomac River. 
 
 The District of Columbia, imtU the act 
 approved February 21, 18'71, was gov- 
 erned directly by the national Congress, 
 and had no representation, and no voice 
 in Federal elections. Now it has a regular 
 Territorial organization, with Governor, 
 Legislature, and one delegate in Congress. 
 The population in 1860 was 75,080, of 
 whom 60,764 were whites, and 14,316 
 black. In 1870 the population was 131,- 
 706, of whom 43,404 were black. 
 
 Xlie Potomac RiT-er, the prin- 
 cipal water-course of the District of 
 Columbia, rises in the Alleghany Moun- 
 tains, receives the waters of several im- 
 portant streams, and, after a winding 
 course of nearly 400 miles, discharges 
 into Chesapeake Bay. Its main tribu- 
 taries are the Shenandoah, the Mmiooaay, 
 the Oonococheague, and the Anacostia, or 
 Eastern Branch, which forms the eastern 
 boundary, and Rock Creek, the western 
 boundary of Washington. The trip down 
 the I>otomao from Washington to Mt. 
 VerutJn is described elsewhere (page 43). 
 
 ■WASHINGHON CITY. 
 
 Washington City, the political capital 
 of the United States, is situated on the 
 north bank of the Potomac River, 122 
 miles north of Richmond (Va.), from 
 which place its reached by the Richmond, 
 28 
 
 Fredericksburg & Potomac Railway., It 
 is 40 miles from Baltimore, 138 from 
 Philadelphia, and 226 from New York, 
 and is reached from these cities by the 
 Pennsylvania (formerly New Jersey) Rail- 
 way and connections. 
 
 HOW TO BBAOH VTASHINSTOS'. 
 
 From New York : Fennsi/lvama Bail- 
 way to Philadelphia ; Philadelphia, Wil- 
 mington & Baltimore to Baltimore ; and 
 from there Washington Branch of the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Mailway. Fare about 
 $7.76. 
 
 From Pittsburg: (1) Fennst/lvania Cen- 
 tral to Harrisburg ; Northern Central to 
 Baltimore. Fi?om Baltimore (1) by Bal- 
 iimore & Potomac, or (2) by Washington 
 Branch of the Baltimore Js Ohio RaUway, 
 Fare about $9.76. 
 
 (2) Pittsburg & Connellsville Eailway 
 to Cumberland (Md.), Baltimore A Ohio 
 to Washington. Fare about $9.76. 
 
 From Chicago : Pittsburg <& Fort 
 Wayne to Pittsburg, and thence as above. 
 
 From Cincinnati : (1) Marietta d; Cin- 
 cinnati Railway to Parkersburg ; Baltimore 
 & Ohio to Washington. Fare about $16. 
 
 (2) lAitle Miami Railway and Panhan- 
 dle Route to Pittsburg; and thence as 
 above. 
 
 From Buffalo, Suspension Bridge, and 
 Rochester : Nem York Central to Canan- 
 daigua; Northern Central to Baltimore, 
 and thence as above. Fare, Buffalo or 
 Suspension Bridge about $12.00, Roches- 
 ter about $11. 
 
 Prom Richmond: (1) Chesapeake d; 
 Ohio to Gordonsville ; Orange di Alexan- 
 dria to Washington. Fare about $6. 
 
 (2) Richmond, Predericlcsbwg <& Poto- 
 mac Railway to Acquia Creek, and by 
 steamer to Washington. Fare about $6. 
 
 Prom Knoxsville and Lynchburg : East 
 Tennessee & Virginia Railway to Bris- 
 tol ; Virginia & Tennessee to Lynchburg ; 
 
Washington City.] 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 [Washington City. 
 
 Orange & Alexandria to Washington. 
 Fare from KnoxviUe about $22.50. 
 
 After much discussion and not a little 
 iU feeling among members of Congress, 
 and leading men in Pennsylvania, Vir- 
 ginia, and Maryland, the site for the Fed- 
 eral capital was decided on, and the 
 necessary grants of lands made. 
 
 The site, if not chosen by Washington 
 himself, seems to have been selected 
 through his agency, and it was he who 
 laid the comer-stone of the CapitoL This 
 was on the 18th of September, 1193, 
 seven years before the seat of government 
 was removed thither from Philadelphia. 
 Under Washington's direction the city 
 was planned and laid out by Andrew 
 Ellicott. The first public commimication 
 on record in regard to laying out the city 
 is from the pen of General Washington, 
 and bears date Hth March, 1191. In a 
 subsequent letter — 20th April, 1791 — ^he 
 called it the "Federal City." It was 
 first known as " the City of Washington," 
 September 9 of the same year. Its 
 ancient name was Conococheague, de- 
 rived from a rapid stream of that name 
 which ran near the city, and which, in 
 the Indian tongue, means the Roaring 
 Brook. The city was incorporated May 
 3, 1802. Its limits embrace an area 
 equal to four and a half miles long by 
 two and a half broad. 
 
 It is idle to speculate upon the action 
 of legislative bodies, and especially of 
 those which convene at the national 
 capital ; but should the original plan of 
 Washington ever be realized in its full 
 growth to the proportions it was designed 
 to reach — as may yet happen — it will be 
 in its own right, and without the aid of 
 its oflSoial position, one of the great cities 
 of the Union. Indeed, it would be diffi- 
 cult to invent a more magnificent scheme 
 than that of the founder of Washington, 
 or to find a location more eligible for its 
 successful execution. Since the organi- 
 zation of the local government in 18'72, 
 an elaborate system of public improve- 
 ments has been begun, which will go far 
 to realize this scheme. 
 
 HINTS TO VISITOES. 
 
 Visitors to Washington will be spared 
 a great deal of needless expense, delay, 
 and inconvenience, by bearing in mind 
 
 that all public buildings, including the 
 Capitol and the several Departments, are 
 open to the public from 9 a. m. to 3 p. m. 
 (Sundays excepted), and closed at most 
 other times. No fees are asked or ex- 
 pected for showing them. With few ex- 
 ceptions, all objects of interest in and 
 around the city can be readily reached 
 by street-cars. If you prefer other modes 
 of conveyance, order your own livery, 
 deal only with principals, and observe 
 the regulations duly provided in such 
 cases. By all means avoid the noisy 
 hackmen, who infest street corners and 
 hotel-bars. Avoid second and third-class 
 hotels. If you are likely to stay a week, 
 or longer, secure only lodgings, of which 
 there are a great number, and board at a 
 restaurant. 
 
 HOTELS, EESTAtTEANTS, AND CLUBS. 
 
 Hotels. — Arlinglon, Vermont Avenue, 
 between H and I Streets, F. Eoessle and 
 Son, proprietors. The Arlington is owned 
 by W. W. Corcoran, the well-known 
 banker who has done so much for the 
 improvement of the city of Washington. 
 The building is nearly new, having been 
 built but a few years. It is situated well 
 up town, in the most fashionable quarter 
 of Washington. It has a steam elevator 
 and all the modem improvements, and 
 claims to be surpassed by no hotel of its 
 size in the country in the comfort and 
 elegance of its appointments. It con- 
 taios over 200 rooms, and can accommo- 
 date 300 guests. 
 
 Metropolitan (formerly Brown's), Penn- 
 sylvania Avenue and Sixth Street. The 
 Metropolitan is five stories in height, and 
 fronts directly on Pennsylvania Avenue. 
 It has a steam elevator, and all modem 
 improvements, and was thoroughly refit- 
 ted in November, 1871, by its present 
 proprietor, I. F. Cake. It contains 207 
 rooms, and can accommodate 300 guests. 
 
 National, Pennsylvania Avenue and 
 Sixth Street. The National is one of the 
 largest hotels in the city, having accom- 
 modations for about 400 guests. 
 
 EbbUt House, F and Fourteenth Streets. 
 The Ebbitt House, though not so large as 
 some of the other hotels, is first-class in 
 all its appointments. It contains about 150 
 rooms, and can accommodate 250 guests. 
 
 The Imperial Hotel (formerly the Jen- 
 
Washington City.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTJE. 
 
 [Washington Cxi,'. 
 
 ness House), E Street, between Thirteenth 
 and Fourteenth Streets ; the St. Marcos, 
 Penuaylvania Avenue and Sixth Street 
 (European plan) ; the St. James, Pennsyl- 
 vania Avenue and Sixth Street (European 
 plan); and the Owen M(Mse (European 
 plan), Pennsylvania Avenue, between 
 Fourteenth and Fifteenth Streets, are 
 among the best of their class in the city. 
 
 Restaukants. — Wdcher's, Fifteenth 
 Street, between New York Avenue and H 
 Street, is an excellent restaurant, and well 
 kept. 
 
 Wormley's, Fifteenth and H Streets, 
 has also an established reputation. 
 
 Harvey's, Pennsylvania Avenue and 
 Eleventh Street, is centrally located, and is 
 near most of the principal hotels. 
 
 Dubant's, under the Metropolitan Hotel, 
 Pennsylvania Avenue and Sixth Street, 
 and Greys, Fifteenth near I Street, are 
 good of their class. 
 
 OONTETANOBS. 
 
 City Passkngeb Railways. — Washing- 
 ton & Georgetown Line : office and depot. 
 New Jersey Avenue, near the Capitol. 
 The cars of this line run from the Navy 
 Tard to Georgetown, nearly the length 
 of Pennsylvania Avenue, passing the 
 Capitol, the Hotels on the Avenue, the 
 Treasury and War Departmenis, a'nd the 
 W/iiie House ; time, every 4 minutes ; 
 Color, red or blue. The Red Line runs 
 from Navy Yard to Georgetown; the 
 Blue Line from Georgetown to the Capi- 
 tol only. 
 
 The Ji' Street cars, a branch of this line, 
 run to the Potomac Ferry leading to 
 Alexandria, passing the Faierd, Office, the 
 Post-Office, the Smithsonian Grounds, 
 and within a short distance of the Oity 
 Hall ; time, every 4 minutes ; color, 
 blue. 
 
 The Fourteenth Street cars, also a branch 
 of the same line, run from New York Ave- 
 nue and Fifteenth Street, opposite Treas- 
 ury Department, through New York Ave- 
 nue and Fourteenth Street to Boundary 
 Street ; time, every 10 minutes ; color, 
 blue. 
 
 Metbopolitan (F Steeet) Line. — Of- 
 fice, New York Avenue and Seventeenth 
 Street. The cars of this line run from 
 New York Avenue and Seventeenth Street 
 through portions of H, Fourteenth, F, and 
 SO 
 
 other principal streets, to the Capitol, 
 passing Baltimore & Ohio Raiihoay De- 
 pot, the Patent Office, Post-Office, Oily 
 Hall, Mbbiti House, the Arlington, &t^ 
 within a short distance of the White 
 House and Treasury Department ; time, 
 every 5 nunutes ; color, green. 
 
 Columbia Line. — The cars of this line 
 run from New York Avenue and Fifteenth 
 Street, opposite Treasury Dqmrtment, 
 through New York Avenue, Massachu- 
 setts Avenue, and H Street, to the east- 
 em terminus of the District Limits ; time, 
 every 10 minutes ; color, red. 
 
 BEIDGES. 
 
 The celebrated Zong Bridge crosses 
 the Potomac into Virginia. It is used 
 both as a railroad and carriage bridge. 
 
 Bennirufs Bridge and Navy Yard Bridge 
 lead into Maryland over the eastern 
 branch of the Potomac, usually called 
 the Anacostia. 
 
 Other bridges, small but substantial, 
 connect Washington and Georgetown, 
 spanning Rock Creek. 
 
 The Aqueduct Bridge, crossing from 
 Georgetown to Virginia, is well worth in- 
 spection. 
 
 PLACES OP AMtrSBMEIfT. 
 
 The places of public amusement in 
 Washington are few and insignificant.' 
 The National Tlieatre, on E Street; east 
 of Willard's Hotel, is the best worthy of 
 patronage. Ford's New Theatre, once a 
 popular and well-conducted establish- 
 ment, is now an object of melancholy in- 
 terest, from having been the scene of the 
 assassination of President Lincoln. This 
 event occurred on Friday, April 14, 1865. 
 The building has been bought by the" 
 Government, and is occupied as an " ar- 
 my medical museum," by the Surgeon- 
 General's Bureau. 
 
 Lincoln Hall, Ninth and D Streets, is the 
 finest hall in the city, and the one gener- 
 ally used for readings, concerts, etc. It 
 will seat about 1,200 persons. The Free 
 Library and Reading-rooms of the Young 
 Men's Christian Association are in the 
 same building. 
 
 Masonic Hall, F and Ninth Streets, is 
 usually the hall in which public parties and 
 balls are given. 
 
Washinoton Citt.] 
 
 DISTRICT OF COIiTTMBIA. 
 
 [Washinoton Citt. 
 
 MeteeroU Ball, Pennsylvania Avenue, 
 between Ninth and Tenth Streets, is not 
 open at present, being used for the ses- 
 sions of the District Legislature. 
 
 OHtTBOHES. 
 
 Metropolitan (Methodist Episcopal), 
 Four-and-a-half and D Streets. This 
 church is a handsome brown-stone build- 
 ing, recently finished at a cost of about 
 $250,000. The President and his family 
 are among its regular attendants. It pos- 
 sesses one of the finest chimes of bells 
 in the United States. 
 
 Mount Vernon Methodist l^scopal 
 Church South, Dr. Roszell, Mount Vernon 
 Place, comer Ninth and K Streets. 
 
 St. Atoysiiis (Roman Catholic), North 
 Capitol and I Streets. Father Bernard 
 H, Maguire, S. J. St. Aloysius is justly 
 celebrated for the excellence of its choir 
 and the eloquence of the preachers who 
 occupy its pulpit. The exterior of the 
 church is plain, but its interior decora- 
 tions are very rich and elaborate. Its 
 marble altar is especially worthy of no- 
 tice. 
 
 St. Matthew's (Roman Catholic), Father 
 Charles J. White, D. D. St. Matthew's is 
 the church usually attended by the Cath- 
 olic members of the Diplomatic Corps. 
 
 St. JohvUs (High Church Episcopal) is 
 on Lafayette Square, opposite the White 
 House. 
 
 The Church of the Epiphany (Episco- 
 pal) is on G Street, between Thirteenth 
 and Fourteenth Streets. 
 
 The First Freshyterian Church is on 
 Four-and-a-half Street, near C Street. 
 
 OHAEITABLE IJTSTITTfTIOjSTS. 
 
 The Louise Some, near Seventeenth 
 Street and Massachusetts Avenue, was 
 built by W. W. Corcoran in memory of 
 his wife and daughter, the Christian name 
 of both of whom it bears. Its cost was 
 $200,000, and its present and future sup- 
 port has been amply secured by the liber- 
 ality of Mr. Corcoran. The building it- 
 self is architecturally an ornament to the 
 city. It contains some sixty rooms, taste- 
 fully and comfortably furnished ; and be- 
 longing to it are spacious gardens. Its 
 purpose is to afford a home to a certain 
 number of elderly ladies of education and 
 
 good family, who are compelled, by loss 
 of means, to seek assistance. 
 
 The Howard Universi'y, for the educa- 
 tion of colored people, is on the Seventh 
 Street Road, just beyond the city limits. 
 
 I'AEKS AND PtnBLIO SQUAEKS. 
 
 The public squares of Washington, for 
 the most part, surround or are attached 
 to Government or municipal buildings, 
 
 Lafayette Square, opposite the White 
 House, is a favorite resort in the summer 
 season of the citizens. Capitol Square, 
 with the immense pile of the Capitol 
 buildings rising above it, forms an at- 
 tractive feature in the approach to the 
 Capitol from Pennsylvania Avenue. 
 
 One of the greatest improvements in 
 Washington, when completed, will un- 
 doubtedly be the Public Park, to extend 
 from the Capitol to Washington's Monu- 
 ment. In forming this park, the old 
 canal will have to be leveled and filled 
 up ; thus removing what has long been 
 an eyesore to the city. 
 
 THE GOTEENMENT BTTILDINQS. 
 
 The visitor will of course turn his first 
 attention to the public or Government 
 buildings, which form the special attrac- 
 tion of the city. 
 
 The Capitol, not less on account of its 
 strictly national character than its extent 
 and magnificence, is entitled to the first 
 consideration. 
 
 The main entrance is on the east front, 
 and does not face Washington city. 
 
 The scene from the lofty dome, or 
 from the high terrace upon which this 
 magnificent edifice stands, is one of un- 
 rivalled beauty, and gives the visitor at 
 once and thoroughly a clear idea of the 
 natural advantages of the location, and 
 of the character, extent, and possibilities 
 of the city. Looking eastward, for the 
 space of a mile or more, over a level 
 plain, now thickly dotted with small 
 dwellings, the eye falls upon the broad 
 and beautiful waters of the Potomac, 
 flowing by Alexandria and the classic 
 groves of Mount Ternon. Turning west- 
 ward, it overlooks the city as it at present 
 exists, upon the great highway of Penn 
 sylvania Avenue, to the edifices of the 
 State and Treasury Departments and the 
 81 
 
Washington City.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Wabhinoton Citt 
 
 President's House, the avenue dropping 
 toward its centre, as a hammock might 
 swing between the two elevated points. 
 Around, on other rising grounds, the 
 various public edifices are seen with fine 
 effect ; and, turning again to the left, the 
 view takes in the broad acres of the new 
 Park, over which may be seen the towers 
 of the Smithsonian Institute, and the 
 half-finished shaft of the Washington 
 Monument; while off in the distance, 
 across Book Creek, lies the quaint but 
 picturesque little city of Georgetown, 
 embosomed in an amphitheatre of hills. 
 
 Those who do not care, or who have 
 not time to visit the several public build- 
 ings and objects of interest in and around 
 Washington, should not fail to make the 
 ascent of the dome. 
 
 The Brome Door, which forma the 
 entrance to the Rotunda from the eastern 
 portico of the Capitol, is a work of con- 
 siderable merit. It is composed entirely 
 of bronze, and weighs 20,000 pounds. It 
 was designed by Randolph Rogers, an 
 American artist, and modelled by him in 
 Rome in 1858. The cast was executed 
 by F. Von Miiller, at Munich, in 1861, 
 The work is in aUo-rilievo, and commem- 
 orates the history of Columbus and the 
 discovery of America. It is 17 feet high, 
 9 feet wide, and cost $30,000. The door 
 has eight panels, each containing a dis- 
 tinct scene in the life of the great dis- 
 coverer; the last, the death scene, in 
 which Columbus is represented surround- 
 ed by his friends and attendants, with his 
 eyes fixed upon the crucifix, feebly mut- 
 tering his last words, "In manus tuas 
 Domine commendo spiritum meum," is a 
 beautifully executed and impressive pic- 
 ture; The statuettes, sixteen in number, 
 between the panels and on the sides of 
 the door, represent the eminent contem- 
 poraries of Columbus. 
 
 At the entrance to the Senate wing 
 there are also bronze doors, designed by 
 Crawford, who died before they were 
 completed. They were finished by Kine- 
 hart of Baltimore. These doors were 
 cast at Chioopee, Mass., and represent 
 scenes in the life of Waslungton. 
 
 The corner-stone of the Capitol, as 
 
 already stated, was laid by Washington 
 
 himself, September 18, 179S. In August, 
 
 1814, the building was burned by the 
 
 82 
 
 British, under Admiral Cockbum, to- 
 gether with the Library of Congress, 
 the President's House, and other pub- 
 lic works. Portraits of Louis XVI., 
 and Marie Antoinette, King and Queen 
 of France, which were in the Senate 
 Chamber of the Capitol at the time of 
 the capture, were also burned or stolen. 
 In 1818 thff building was entirely restored, 
 and in 1851 (July 4) President Fillmore 
 laid the comer-stone of the new buildings 
 (new wings), which make the edifice now 
 more than twice its original size. Its 
 whole length is 761 feet 4 inches, and the 
 area covered, exclusive of the court- 
 yards, 163,112 square feet, or rather 
 more than three and a half acres. The 
 surrounding grounds, which are beau- 
 tifully cultivated and embellished by 
 fountains and statuary, embrace about 30 
 acres, and are known as the East and 
 West Grounds. The Senate Chamber 
 and the Hall of Representatives of the 
 Congress of the United States are in the 
 wings, or, as they are more familiarly 
 known, the " Extension " of the Capitol, 
 on either side of the central building. 
 
 The Botumda (old or central building, 
 second floor) is 96 feet in diameter. It 
 contains eight large pictures, illustrating 
 scenes in American history, painted for 
 the Government by native artists. En- 
 tering the Rotunda immediately under 
 the dome at the main doorway on the 
 east front, the visitor will find the pic- 
 tures ranged in the following order : 
 
 1. Discovery of the Mississippi by De 
 
 Soto, May, 1641. W. H. Powell. 
 
 2. Baptism of Pocahontas, Jamestown, 
 
 May, 1613. John G. Chapman. 
 
 3. Declaration of Independence, Phila- 
 
 delphia, July 4, 1776. J. Trum- 
 bull. 
 
 4. Surrender of General Burgoyne, Sar- 
 
 atoga, Oct.. 17, 1777. J. Trum- 
 buU. 
 6. Surrender of- Lord Cornwallis, York- 
 town, Oct. 19, 1781. J. Trumbull. 
 
 6. General Washington resigning his 
 
 Commission, Annapolis, Dec. 23, 
 1783. J. Trumbull. 
 
 7. Embarkation of the Pilgrims, July 
 
 21 (0. S.), 1620. R. W. Weir. 
 
 8. Landing of Columbus, Oct., 1492. J. 
 
 Vanderlyn. 
 The third and three following pictures 
 
Washington CiTT.] DISTRICT OP COLUMBIA. [Washington Cut. 
 
 of the series were painted by Colonel 
 John Trumbull, for the Government, at a 
 total coat of $32,000. It was the picture 
 of the Declaration that provoked John 
 Randolph's ungracious and unjust criti- 
 cism. He called it the "shin piece," and 
 a host of would-be connoisseurs have 
 been denouncing it ever since. It is 
 really one of the best, if not the best 
 painting, in the Rotunda. Heads of Co- 
 lumbus, Sir Walter Raleigh, Cabot, and 
 La Salle appropriately occupy alternate 
 panels over the pictures. In the panels 
 over the four entrances to the Rotunda 
 are alio-rilievos in stone, representing 
 Penn's Treaty with the Indians, the 
 Landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, 
 the Conflict of Daniel Boon with the In- 
 dians, and the Rescue of Captain John 
 Smith by Pocahontas. The floor of the 
 Rotunda is of freestone, supported by 
 arches of brick, resting upon two con- 
 centric peristyles of Doric columns in the 
 crypt below. The height of the apart- 
 ment is 96 feet. On the floor of the Ro- 
 tunda were encamped the soldiers of the 
 Hew York Seventh Regiment, when they 
 arrived in Washington in April, 1861. 
 
 The Dome (old or central buildmg, 
 third floor) rises over the Rotunda in the 
 centre of the structure. It is the most 
 imposing feature of the vast pile. The 
 old dome was constructed of brick, stone, 
 and wood, and sheathed with copper, and 
 rose to the height of 145 feet from the 
 ground. Thi? was removed in 1856, and 
 the present structure of iron erected, 
 from designs by Walter, the architect of 
 the Extension. The weight of iron used 
 in its construction amounts to 10,000,000 
 lbs. The interior of the Dome measures 
 96 feet in diameter, and 220 feet from 
 the floor to the ceiling. Externally, it 
 rises 241 feet above the roof of the main 
 buildmg, 300 feet above the eastern, and 
 396 feet above the western front. The 
 view of the Dome from the gateway to 
 the Western Grounds, partially broken 
 by the intervening forest trees, is very 
 fine. As before remarked, visitors should 
 not fail to make the ascent of the Dome. 
 A spiral stairway, traversing the whole 
 superstructure between the outer and 
 inner shells, affords easy access, and 
 ^ves the visitor a favorable opportunity 
 for inspecting, from different points of 
 
 view, the fresco painting on the canopy 
 overhead. This is the work of Constan- 
 tine Brumidi, whose altar-piece of the 
 Crucifixion, recently placed in the Cathe- 
 dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Phila- 
 delphia, has been so much admired. It 
 covers a space of 6,000 square feet, and 
 was commenced and completed within 
 the space of ten months. 
 
 The canopy at its base is 54 feet in di- 
 ameter and 250 feet in circumference; 
 63 figures are contained in the picture, 
 many of them, in order to produce the 
 eflect necessary for life-size when seen 
 from the floor beneath, being colossal in 
 their dimensions, and varying from twelve 
 to seventeen feet in heiglit. The centre 
 figure will be readily recognized. It con- 
 sists of a portrait of Washington, in a 
 sitting posture. To his right is seated 
 the Goddess of Liberty, and on the left a 
 female figure representing Victory and 
 Fame proclaiming Freedom. In a semi- 
 circle is a group of females, representing 
 the original sister colonies, bearing aloft 
 a banner on which is inscribed the na- 
 tional motto. Surrounding this under- 
 circle, near the base, of the design, are 
 six artistic groups, representing War, 
 Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the 
 Navy, and Science. 
 
 The overthrow of treason is strongly 
 tjrpified in the discomfited yet malignant 
 aspect of the figures which shrink from 
 view under the feet of the incensed figure 
 of Liberty and Union. 
 
 In the group representing the Arts and 
 Sciences the figures of Franklin, Walter, 
 and Fulton occupy prominent places. 
 
 From the gallery immediately under- 
 neath the fresco gallery, another spiral 
 stairway leads to the lantern, lY feet in 
 diameter and 52 feet high. This is sur- 
 mounted by the tholus, or ball, and this 
 in turn by Crawford's statue of Liberty, 
 16 J feet high, cast in bronze by Clark 
 Mills. 
 
 Leaving the Rotunda by the southern 
 doorway, the visitor to the Capitol finds 
 himself in the south wing of the centre 
 building, in the Old Matt of Sepreeenta- 
 tives. Most persons who visit the Capi- 
 tol for the first time have their attention 
 so much absorbed in the new extension, 
 and the debates which during the session 
 are carried on there, that they overlook • 
 
WASHiNaioN City.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [WASniNGTOIf ClTT. 
 
 the objects of interest in the central edi- 
 fice ; yet, as a late writer has justly re- 
 marked, there is no room in the new 
 buildings comparable in beauty to the 
 old Representatives' Hall. This fine 
 chamber really forms one of the most 
 interesting relics of the history of Con- 
 gress. It is, moreover, replete with his^ 
 torioal associations of the deepest inter- 
 est. The ruined towers and fretted aisles 
 of the Old World, moss-clad and ivy- 
 wreathed, may delight the eye and please 
 the sense of the European tourist, dillet- 
 iante, and scholar more than these sombi'e 
 and unromantic walls, bare and white- 
 washed as they are ; but surely to the 
 American-born citizen they must ever be 
 replete with an interest almost sacred. 
 On the floor of this hall all the great men 
 of the first half century of the republic 
 figured. Here Clay presided, here Web- 
 ster spoke, here Adams died ; but the 
 reader's knowledge of American history 
 is, doubtless, better than the author's; 
 besides, the limits of a guide-book forbid 
 any attempt at historical picture-painting. 
 The apartment is semicircular in form, 95 
 feet in length and 60 feet high to the apex 
 of the ceiling. The columns which support 
 the entablature are 24 in number, and 
 constructed of variegated green breccia, or 
 pudding-stone, from the Potomac Valley, 
 and cost over $8,000 apiece. There is 
 nothing like them nor so fine elsewhere 
 in Washington. The ceiling is painted 
 in panel, to imitate that of the Pantheon 
 at Rome. Light is admitted through a 
 cupola in the centre of the ceiling. In 
 the tympanum of the arch stands a 
 statue of Liberty, executed in plaster by 
 Causici. The statue by Franzoni, rep- 
 resenting History standing in a winged 
 car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious 
 device, forms the dial of a clock, is de- 
 servedly admired. Within this hall will 
 be placed the statuary and paintings 
 which, from time to time, come into pos- 
 session of the Government. It has, also, 
 been set apart to receive the statues of 
 eminent Americans : each State selecting 
 the two among its honored dead deemed 
 most worthy. Rhode Island has already 
 sent the statues of General Greene and 
 Roger Williams ; Connecticut, those of 
 Roger Sherman and Jonathan Trum- 
 bull. Maryland will send statues of 
 34 
 
 Roger B. Taney and Charles Carroll of 
 CarroUton. Belonging to the Govern- 
 ment are also in this Hall Houdon's 
 Washington and Stone's Hamilton, and 
 some busts and portraits of minor impor- 
 tance. 
 
 Advancing southward along the corri- 
 dor, a few steps bring us to the new hall 
 of the House of Representatives. Admis- 
 sion to the floor of the house is only 
 granted before the morning session, or 
 during a recess of the House. The cham- 
 ber itself is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide, 
 and 30 feet high. The lowness of the 
 ceiling, which is supported by trusses 
 from the roof beyond, and panelled with 
 stained glass, gives this otherwise fine 
 apartment a gloomy and cramped ap- 
 pearance, which the gaudy, garish char- 
 acter of the decoration serves rather to 
 heighten. To the left of the Speaker's 
 chair there is a full-length portrait of 
 Lafayette, -and to the right a full-length 
 portrait of Washington by Vanderlyn. 
 The Strangers'. Gallery, to which ready 
 ascent is afforded by means of two grand 
 marble stairways, extends entirely round 
 the hall, and affords seats for 1,200 per- 
 sons; sections of the gallery are railed 
 off for the use of the diplomatic corps 
 and the reporters for the press. The 
 space not specially appropriated to their 
 use is open to visitors. The Speaker's 
 Room, unmediately in the rear of his 
 chair, is a highly decorated apartment. 
 From the southern lobby of the House 
 two stairways descend to the basement, 
 where are located the Refectory and vari- 
 ous committee-rooms. The room of the 
 Conmiittee on Agriculture will repay a 
 visit ; the walls and ceiling are painted 
 in fresco by Brumidi. To those who 
 visit the Capitol during the spring or 
 summer months, a walk through the 
 basement will be appreciated as not the 
 least enjoyable feature of the visit. The 
 corridor, which is 24J feet wide, contains 
 30 monolithic fluted columns of white 
 marble, with foliated capitals, and, from 
 the thickness of the surrounding walls 
 and exclusion from the sun's rays, is a 
 refreshingly cool place for a promenade. 
 
 Traversing the basement to the north 
 end, we reach the floor above by a stair- 
 way similar to that leading from the 
 Hall of Representatives. 
 
Washington City.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 [WAsniNGTON Cut. 
 
 The Senate Chamber f second floor) pre- 
 sents few features wortny special notice, 
 after visiting the Hall of Representatives. 
 It is somewhat smaller than the other, be- 
 ing 113 feet 8 inches long by 80 feet 8 
 inches wide, and is open to the same objec- 
 tion on account of the lowness of the ceil- 
 ing. Being ornamented and fitted with 
 better taste, however, it has a more pleas- 
 ing general appearance. The galleries are 
 reached by marble stairways similar to 
 those in the south wing. These stair- 
 cases really constitute the most striking 
 architectural features of the recent ex- 
 tension of the Capitol. Those who have 
 the necessary time at their disposal will 
 be repaid by visiting the President's and 
 Vice-President's Rooms, the Senators' Re- 
 tiring-Room, the Reception-Room, and 
 Senate Post-OfBce. The Marble Room 
 of the Senate is particularly chaste and 
 beautiful in its decorations. Senators 
 alone have the privilege of allowing visi- 
 tors to enter it. In the President's room, 
 which adjoins the retiring-chamber on 
 the west, are frescoes typical of the his- 
 tory of the country; also portraits of the 
 first President and his Cabinet, by Bru- 
 midi. The room of the Vice-President 
 contains a portrait of Washington by 
 Rembrandt Peale. Admission to the 
 galleries of both Senate and House can 
 always be obtained on application to the 
 door-keeper or any of his assistants. 
 
 The /Supreme Court Room, formerly 
 the Old Senate Chamber, is in the Old 
 or Central Building. It is a semicircular 
 apartment, 75 feet long and 46 feet high, 
 situated upon the eastern side of the 
 north wing of the centre building. Busts 
 of the former Chief Justices Jay, Rut- 
 ledge, Ellsworth, and Marshall, adorn the 
 wall,s. Underneath the room is the 
 apartment formerly occupied by the 
 Court, and now devoted to the Imw 
 Library. The cornstalk columns which 
 ornament the entrance to this apartment, 
 and the tobaccoJeaf capitals of the circu- 
 lar colonnade, between the Old Senate 
 Chamber and the Rotunda, are worthy of 
 notice. This library, which is separated 
 from the main library of Congress for the 
 convenience of the Court, contains up- 
 ward of 28,000 volumes, and is rich in 
 works upon civil, maritime, and commer- 
 cial law. The principal architectural 
 
 feature of this room is the arches which 
 spring, from the massive arched ribs of 
 stone resting on Doric columns. 
 
 The Library of Congress is in the Old 
 or Central Building, opposite the Ro- 
 tunda, and occupies the entire western 
 projection of the Capitol. The main 
 room is 91 feet long and 34 feet wide, 
 ceiled with iron, and fitted up with fire- 
 proof cases. The collection of books 
 was commenced under act of Congress, 
 April 24, 1800, and the library, amount- 
 ing to 3,000 volumes, was destroyed 
 when the Capitol was burned by the 
 British in 1814. In December, 1851, 
 the library numbered 56,000; a second 
 fire, which occurred on the 24th of that 
 month, swept away all but 20,000 vol- 
 umes; among those saved were fortu- 
 nately a large portion of the Jeiferson 
 collection. The present library-room was 
 completed July, 1853, at a cost of nearly 
 $73,000. The collection, now the largest 
 in the United States, consists of 240,000 
 volumes (exclusive of pamphlets), being 
 60,000 volumes more than the Public 
 Library of Boston, which is the next in 
 point of numbers. The Congressional 
 Library increases at the rate of from 16 
 to 20,000 volumes a year. The library is 
 open to all throughout the year, and all 
 the books in the collection are freely at 
 the call of readers for use within the 
 Library. Though not a library of cir- 
 culation — the privilege of withdrawing 
 books from the rooms being confined to 
 members of Congress and the higher 
 oflicers of the Government — the library 
 of Congress is a most interesting and 
 useful collection to aU who have the time 
 to consult its rich and rapidly-increasing 
 stores. All copy-right books are, by law, 
 required to be deposited in this Ubrary, 
 and the representation of American pub- 
 lications is by far the most complete in 
 the country. It is also rich in foreign 
 books in all departments of literature 
 and science. The Smithsonian Library 
 of scientific works was removed to the 
 Capitol in 1866, and now forms part of 
 its collection. 
 
 On the eastern portico, and in the 
 grounds surrounding the Capitol, are 
 several works of art, conspicuous among 
 which are Persico's statues of Columbus, 
 of Peace, and of War, and the group of 
 35 
 
Washington Cut.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUK. 
 
 [Washinotos City, 
 
 statuary representing Civilization, by 
 Greenough; the statue of Washington, 
 executed by the same artist, representing 
 the Father of his Country seated on a 
 pedestal of granite 12 feet high, in imi- 
 tation of the antique statue of Jupiter 
 Tonans, cannot be regarded as a very 
 truthful or artistic effort. The whole cost 
 of the Capitol buildings, as they exist at 
 this time, has been nearly $12,000,000. 
 
 Lighting Aj^ratus. (House Wing, 
 No. 10.) The Senate Chamber and Hall 
 of Representatives are lighted by means 
 of thousands of gas-bumera placed above 
 the sky-light, which, when lighted, has a 
 very beautiful effect. 
 
 Heating and VerUUating Af^raius. 
 (House Wing, No. 34 ; Senate Wing, No. 
 69 — in the basement.) The Capitol is 
 heated and ventilated by machinery. 
 Two engines in each wing, driving fans 
 18 and 24 feet in diameter, force currents 
 of hot or cold air through miles of steam 
 pipe, by which it is heated or cooled, 
 and forced again into all the rooms and 
 passages. In the summer the building is 
 kept cool by shutting off the steam from 
 the pipes, and forcing nothing but the 
 pure cold air through the building; the 
 current of air is so great as to aid in the 
 ventilation also. 
 
 The President's House. — The Presi- 
 dent's House, or the White House, as it 
 is popularly called, is upon the highest 
 ground and nearly midway between the 
 Capitol and Georgetown, 1^ mile from 
 the former. It is surrounded by the 
 Treasury, War, and Navy Departments. 
 The comer-stone of the building was 
 laid with appropriate ceremonies on the 
 13th October, 1792. The White House 
 was built from designs by James Hoban, 
 and was modelled after the palace of 
 the Duke of Leinster ; it was much in- 
 jured during the occupation of the city 
 by the British, and extensive repairs were 
 found necessary, which were made in 
 1815, under the supervision of the same 
 architect. It is two stories high, 170 feet 
 long, and 86 feet deep, built of freestone, 
 and painted white. 
 
 The entrance from the north porch is 
 into a long vestibule, through which the 
 visitor passes to the right into the Presi- 
 dent's Reception Room. This communi- 
 cates with the Round Room, formed by 
 
 the south bow front, and this with a 
 square room which adjoins the great East 
 Room. 
 
 The- " East Room " is the grand parlor 
 of the President. It is a fine apartment, 
 80 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 20 feet 
 high. The surrounding grounds, which 
 embrace an area of about 20 acres, slope 
 gradually to the Potomac on the south. 
 A circular colonnade of six Doric pillars 
 adorns this front, from which is a pictur- 
 esque view of the river and Virginia 
 shore. On the north front, overlooking 
 Pennsylvania Avenue, is a portico with 
 four Ionic columns, under which car- 
 riages pass. In the lawn, immediately 
 in front of this drive, is a bronze statue 
 of Jefferson. 
 
 On the grounds south of the White 
 House a band of music performs Saturday 
 afternoon, during the summer months, 
 when there is usually a large attendance 
 of ladies from the city. The entrance to 
 the Park is through the gate south of 
 the Treasury. 
 
 The President receives calls every 
 week-day, except Cabinet days and spe- 
 cial appointment days, from 10 to 1 
 o'clock. A grand levee is held at the 
 White House on New-Year's Day ; this is 
 regarded as the opening lev^e, after 
 which, of late years, it has been the cus- 
 tom to consider fortnightly evening levdes 
 as in order. The President's wife, in 
 company with the President, also gives a 
 reception weekly, during the session of 
 Congress, usually on Saturday mornings. 
 The announcements of the daily press 
 furnish the best guide in this particular. 
 Lafayette Square, on the north side of 
 Pennsylvania Avenue, in the immediate 
 vicinity of the President's mansion, af- 
 fords a pleasant ramble. In the centre 
 of the square is Clark Mills's bronze 
 equestrian statue of Jackson, erected on 
 the 8th of January, 1853, the anniver- 
 sary of the battle of New Orleans. It 
 is cast from cannon taken by General 
 Jackson in his battles with the English. 
 The Tbeasuet Department.— The rav- 
 ages of fire, and the constantly-increas- 
 ing business of the Government, have re- 
 quired repeated and extensive additions 
 to and extensions of the public buildings 
 of Washington. Perhaps the most note- 
 worthy instance of this rapid growth and 
 
Washinqton CiTT.] DISTRICT OF COLUMBU. 
 
 [Washington Cirr. 
 
 adTanoemcnt in the material wealth of 
 the nation is furnished in the present ex- 
 tent of the United States Treasury build- 
 ing. The act establishing the Treasury 
 Department was approved September 2, 
 1789. The first e(Ufice erected for the 
 purpose of a United States Treasury was 
 destroyed by the British in 1814. The 
 second was also burned down in the spring 
 of 183S. The east front of the present 
 buUding, on Fifteenth Street, with its un- 
 broken Ionic colonnade of 300 feet, oc- 
 cupies the site of the old Treasury build- 
 ing. This colonnade was modelled after 
 that of the temple of Minerva at Athens. 
 It was commenced in the summer of 1886. 
 The extension was begun in 1855, from 
 designs by Walter, the architect of the 
 Capitol extension. The plan of the ex- 
 tension Sanks the old building at each 
 end with massive fronts. The old build- 
 ing is composed of brown sandstone, 
 painted — ^the recent extension is of solid 
 granite from Dix Island, on the coast of 
 Maine. The interior arrangement of the 
 building is admirable. (The only print- 
 ing now done in the Treasury Building is 
 the impression of the seal and numbers 
 oh the notes. All the expensive machi- 
 nery and presses of Secretary McCullough 
 were removed and sold by Secretary 
 Boutwell.) 
 
 The War and Navy Depabtmbnts 
 face Seventeenth Street, west of the 
 White House, and are plain brick build- 
 ings, with nothing but their size and past 
 importance to invite attention. They 
 were enlarged in 1864-'65, in order to 
 meet the greatly increased demands of 
 the Government growing out of the war. 
 
 A large stone building on the west 
 side of Seventeenth Street, and nearly 
 opposite the Navy Department, known as 
 Winder's Building, is attached to the War 
 Department for clerical purposes. A col- 
 lection of flags and other trophies, cap- 
 tured during the rebellion, will be found 
 in both these Departments. The visitor's 
 card, accompanied by a request, will in- 
 sure permission from the Secretary to 
 see them. 
 
 In the open space between the War 
 and Navy Departments, those curious in 
 such matters wiU do well to examine u, 
 mass of copper-ore from Ontonagon, Lake 
 Superior. It is said to have been origi- 
 
 nally used as a sacrificial rock by the 
 Indians, who regarded it with peculiar 
 awe and veneration. It cost the United 
 States $6,640. 
 
 Mills's Statue of Washington is 11 
 feet high, if standing erect, and upon 
 horseback, 16 feet. It is within the 
 circle formed by the junction of Pennsyl- 
 vania and New Hampshire Avenues, and 
 Twenty-third Street west, and K Street 
 north. The Pennsylvania Avenue street 
 ears pass around it on the trip to and from 
 Georgetown. The head and face of Wash- 
 ington are considered very natural. They 
 are from a bust by Houdon, taken in 
 Washington's lifetime. In compliance 
 with the order of Congress, " Mr. Mills has 
 chosen for illustration the courage and 
 daring by which Washington, at the crisis 
 of the battle of Princeton, rallied his 
 troops, and turned the scale in favor of 
 his country's cause, by what, at another 
 time, would have been a reckless expos- 
 ure of his person. The incident is famil- 
 iar to the student of history. The horse 
 is represented as shrinking back before 
 the destructive fire of the enemy, while 
 his rider surveys the scene with the 
 calmness and resolution which know no 
 fear when honor and duty are at stake." 
 
 The Washington Monument. — All 
 guide and hand books to Washington 
 reserve a conspicuous place for the Wash- 
 ington Monument, contrasting its pro- 
 spective proportions with the great Pyr- 
 amid of Cheops in Egypt, the Tower of 
 MaKnes in Belgium, and other celebrat- 
 ed monuments, and indulging all sorts of 
 speculative fancies regarding its future 
 extent and magnificence. The truth is, 
 that the monument as it now exists is a 
 very small and insignificant affair, and, 
 in the outof-the-way position it occupies, 
 scarcely worth the trouble of visiting it. 
 The design contemplated a shaft 600 feet 
 in height, with an ornamented base mod- 
 elled after the Pantheon at Rome, esti- 
 mated alone to cost over half a million 
 dollars. Within the base or " Temple " 
 it is contemplated to place statues of 
 Revolutionary heroes and relics of Wash- 
 ington. It is to be surrounded by a col- 
 onnade of thirty Doric pillars, with suita- 
 ble entablature and balustrade. Each 
 State contributes a block of native stone 
 or other material, which is to be placed 
 37 
 
Washington City.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOtTE. 
 
 [■Washingto!? Citt. 
 
 in the interior walls. Many of these 
 blocks are beautiful specimens, worthy 
 of inspection. They are contained in a 
 shed near the structure. The monument, 
 in its present state of progress, is 110 
 feet high, and has cost $230,000. Work 
 on it has been suspended for some time. 
 
 The Nationai, Obsebvatoet is weU 
 situated on high ground near the Poto- 
 mac, between the President's House and 
 Georgetown, commanding a fine yiew of 
 the river and the two cities. This site 
 was formerly known as Camp Hill, and 
 is said to have been the precise spot on 
 which General Washii^on encamped 
 with Braddock's forces. It was founded 
 in 1842, and was originally designed and 
 used for a hydrographioal office. The 
 transit instrument, in the west wing, and 
 the prime vertical transit, in the south 
 wing of the building, are fine instruments. 
 A library of astronomical works, and a 
 normal clock by Kessels, of Altona, are 
 in the Superintendent's room. 
 
 Strangers can visit the observatory at 
 all hours, and may inspect the telescope 
 and other apparatus when they are not 
 in use. Telegraph wires connect the ob- 
 servatory with all others in the Union, 
 so that simultaneous observations of the 
 phenomena of the heavens and of the at- 
 mosphere may be made and compared. 
 
 The State Department. — The Depart- 
 ment of State, at present, occupies a two- 
 story brick building upon the upper part 
 of Fourteenth Street west. The structure 
 was erected for the Protestant Orphan 
 Asylum, and is leased to the Government 
 for a term of years. The organization 
 of this Department embraces the follow- 
 ing bureaus, under the immediate jurisdic- 
 tion of their respective officers, viz. : the 
 Diplomatic Branch, the Consular Branch, 
 the Disbursing Agent, Translator, Ap- 
 pointments and Commissions, Bolls and 
 Archives, Territorial Business, Pardons 
 and Passports, and Statistics. The Li- 
 brary contains a fine collection of books, 
 maps, and charts. 
 
 The Patent Office, sometimes but 
 erroneously called the Department of the 
 Interior, is centrally located on F Street, 
 between Seventh and Ninth Streets. It 
 occupies the entire block, having a front- 
 age of 410 feet on F Street, and extend- 
 ing back 275 feet to G Street. It was I 
 38 
 
 built after designs by Wm. P. Elliott, 
 and extended by Edward Clark. It is 
 admired, not less for the simplicity of its 
 style than for its extent and the massive 
 grandeur of its proportions. The style 
 of architecture is Doric. There are porti- 
 coes on the east, west, north, and south 
 fronts. The interior of this building is 
 admirably designed and handsomely fin- 
 dished. In the second or main floor are 
 located the Indian office, the office of the 
 Secretary of the Interior, the General 
 Land-Office, the Pension and Census Bu- 
 reaus, and the office of the Commissioner 
 of Patents. The principal feature of the 
 whole building is the Model-Boom of the 
 Patent-Office, which occupies the entire 
 upper floor of the edifice, forming four 
 large halls or chambers, unequalled for 
 extent and beauty on the continent. The 
 total length of this floor is 1,350 feet, or 
 rather more than a quarter of a mile. 
 
 The East Sail is devoted to Fine Arts, 
 Navigation, Fire-arms, Illumination, Cal- - 
 orifics. Civil Engineering, Machines for 
 Manufacturing Textile Fabrics, Sewing 
 Machines, etc. : the North HaU, to Hy- 
 draulics, Pneumatics, Metallurgy, Agri- 
 cultural Implements, Wood-working, etc. : 
 the West HaU, to Rejected Models : the 
 South Hall, to Brick Machines, Composi- 
 tion Materials, Sports, Games and Toys, 
 Tanning, Surgical, Philosophical and 
 Chemical Apparatus, etc. The Patent 
 Office is now distributing the Rejected 
 Models in the West Hall to the different 
 institutions of learning throughout the 
 United States for the instruction of stu- 
 dents. The entire collection numbers 
 over 120,000 articles ; an enumeration 
 of them here might weary the reader, 
 and is therefore omitted. The fresco 
 painting on the roof of the south room is 
 much admired for its freshness and elab- 
 orate detail. In this room are cases con- 
 taining a collection of Revolutionary curi- 
 osities and relics, among which are the 
 printing-press of Benjamin Franklin, and 
 the wardrobe and many of the other per- 
 sonal effects of Washington, worn by 
 him when he resigned his commission as 
 Commander-in-Chief. Near these are 
 cases for the preservation of medals and 
 treaties of the United States with foreign 
 powers. Among the latter are treaties 
 with Louis Philippe (1831), Louis SYl 
 
Washington City.] 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 [WAaHIKGTON Ciir. 
 
 of France (ITTS), and Louis SVIII. of 
 France (1822). A fine collection of sa- 
 bres, presented by Bey Ali Pacha to Cap- 
 tain Perrie of the United States ship 
 " Concord," at Alexandria, 1832, adorns 
 the upper end of this case. 
 
 The Model-Room throughout forms one 
 of the most interesting sights at the na- 
 tional capital. The whole building is of 
 marble. The broad platform of the 
 southern portico is reached by a flight 
 of granite steps, 28 in number, and has 
 a double row of fluted Doric columns, 
 each 18 feet in circumference. The in- 
 ner quadrangle of the structure measures 
 265 feet by 135 feet, and contains two 
 fountains. The main entrance to the 
 building is from F Street. Open from 9 
 A. u. to 6 F. u. 
 
 The General Post-Office, opposite 
 the south front of the Patent-Office, is an 
 imposing edifice of white marble in the 
 modified Corinthian style. Like the 
 Patent-Office and the Treasury, it has 
 been greatly enlarged within a few years. 
 The building rests on a rustic basement, 
 scarcely discernible since the raising of 
 the street grade. It is 300 feet long, 204 
 feet deep, and three stories high. It was 
 commenced in 1S39, extended in 1855, 
 under the direction of Mr. Walter, and 
 finished in 1865. Monoliths of Italian 
 marble form the columns of the exten- 
 sion. The City Post-Office occupies the 
 lower story of the north or P Street 
 front. The whole upper portion is ap- 
 propriated to the use of the General or 
 United States Post-Office. The papers 
 left by Benjamin Franklin, the first 
 Postmaster-General of the Colonies, and 
 the Dead Letter Office, are objects of 
 interest to the visitor. 
 
 The Smithsonian Institute is situated 
 within the area of the New Park, between 
 the Capitol and the Washington Monu- 
 ment, and is surrounded by an enclosure 
 extending from Seventh to Twelfth 
 Streets, and from Canal to B Street 
 south. The easiest approach from 
 Pennsylvania Avenue is by the Seventh 
 Street bridge. This noble institution was 
 endowed by James Smithson, an Eng- 
 lishman, " for the increase and diffusion 
 of knowledge among men." It is of red 
 sandstone, in the Norman or Roman- 
 esque style. The building was com- 
 
 menced in 1847, and completed soon 
 after. Its length is 450 feet, its breadth 
 140, and it has nine towers, ranging 
 from 15 to 150 feet high. The lecture- 
 room, with sittings for 1,200 auditors, 
 was in the centre of the main building 
 on the second floor. A fire, a year or two 
 ago, destroyed the roof of the main 
 building and the second story, including 
 the lecture-room, the cabinet apparatus, 
 and the picture gallery, a museum of 
 natural history, 200 feet in length, a 
 superb laboratory, and a library-room 
 capable of holding 100,000 volumes. 
 The grounds attached to the Institute, 
 embracing about 50 acres, were laid out 
 by the late A. J. Downing. The exterior 
 of the main building and the rooms of 
 the towers have been restored, and the 
 upper story will also soon be restored. 
 There is a monument to Downing's mem- 
 ory by the American Pomological So- 
 ciety, which stands near the Institute. 
 Throughout the year visitors are admitted 
 between the hours of 9 a. m. and 4 p. m. 
 
 The Navt Yard is situated on the 
 Eastern Branch of the Potomac, about 
 IJ mile southeast of the Capitol. It has 
 an area of 27 acres, enclosed by a sub- 
 stantia' brick wall. Within this en- 
 closure, besides houses for the officers, 
 are shops and warehouses, two large 
 ship-houses, and an armory, which, like 
 the rest of the establishment, is kept in 
 the finest order. The JTavy Magazine is 
 a large brick structure, situated in the 
 southeastern section of a plot of 70 acres, 
 on the Eastern Branch. The visitor 
 should not fail to inspect the Ordnance 
 foundries and shops where the manufac- 
 ture of guns, shot, and shells, is usually 
 going on. Upon entering, one is required 
 to register his name at the office, after 
 which he can ramble through the build- 
 ing at his leisure, under the escort of a 
 guide ; leaving the Foundry he can go to 
 the Museum, where there is an interest- 
 ing collection of fire-arms and warlike 
 munitions. At other points of the yard 
 are collections of guns and other trophies 
 captured during war, or otherwise ac- 
 quired. One interesting feature of the 
 Yard is the Experimental Battery, where 
 practice and experiments in the science 
 of naval gunnery are carried on ; while 
 still another prominent object is the 
 89 
 
Washington Gitt.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Wathinqton Oitt. 
 
 Fleet of Monitors, Torpedo Boata, and 
 other Iron-clade, which have been lying 
 at this point for several years. 
 
 The Marine BakeackS.^-Two squares 
 north of the Navy Yard are the Marine 
 Barracks — the Headquarters of the XT. S. 
 Marine Corps, and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the same is the Marine Hos- 
 pital, for the sick and disabled sailofs of 
 the service. 
 
 All of these places can be easily 
 reached by means of the street cars of 
 the Avenue line, which road has its 
 eastern terminus at the Navy Yard gate. 
 
 The National Abmort, appropriated, 
 as the name implies, to the preservation 
 of the ordnance and arms of the United 
 States required for the use of the Dis- 
 trict militia and similar purposes, is an 
 unpretending three-story brick .building, 
 on the Mall between the Smithsonian 
 Institute and the Capitol. 
 
 The Arsenal, located on Greenleaf s 
 Point, near the confluence of the Eastern 
 Branch with the Potomac, is worthy a 
 visit. The buildings were commenced in 
 1814, under the superintendence of Colo- 
 nel Bomford. The Model-room, and the 
 famous batteries of Bragg and Duncan, 
 will interest the student of military sci- 
 ence. Many old pieces of ordnance, cap- 
 tured during the war of "76, are preserved 
 here. A frightful explosion occurred here 
 December 18, 1865. 
 
 The Military Asylum, or "Soldiers' 
 Home," as it is more familiarly known, 
 should not be omitted among the " places 
 worth seeing " in Washington. It occu- 
 pies a high plateau three miles north of 
 the city. The drive thither is among the 
 most pleasant the District affords. The 
 site was selected by General Scott. The 
 main building is 600 feet long, built of 
 Eastchester marble, in the Norman style 
 of architecture. It has been the custom 
 ^of the Presidents, since Mr. Pierce's 
 administration, to occupy one of the 
 smaller buildings of the Home as a 
 summer resort, and here the late lamented 
 Lincoln passed some of the last hours of 
 his eventful term. 
 
 Attached to the Asylum grounds is one 
 of the National Cemeteries, formed during 
 the war. Here thousands of the heroes 
 who perished during the war, from dis- 
 ease and wounds, were buried from the 
 40 
 
 hospitals and camps encircling Washing- 
 ton. The Cemetery is regularly laid out, 
 and is kept in the most beautiful order. 
 There is also another of the National 
 Cemeteries at Arlington, -on the west 
 bank of the river opposite the cityii; The 
 approaches to it are by way of the Long 
 Bridge, or the Chain Bridge above 
 Georgetown. , 
 
 The Hospital for the IjssiitE, of the 
 Army and Navy and District of Columbia, 
 occupies a noble site on the east bank 
 of the Potomac, near its confluence with 
 the Eastern Branch. The eminence on 
 which it stands is one of the highest in 
 the vicinity of the Capital, and commands 
 one of the finest views to be had in the 
 city. The edifice is an immense structure, 
 711 feet in length. It is in the collegiate 
 style of Gothic ardhitecture. 
 
 The Army Hospitals of Washington 
 and vicinity numbered 23 during the 
 war, with accommodation for 12,000 pa- 
 tients. Many of these have been re- 
 moved. Among those remaining, worthy 
 a visit, are Armory Sguare Hos/pital, east 
 of the Smithsonian grounds ; Emory and 
 Lincoln Sospiials, and Judiciary Sguare 
 Hospital, in the rear of the City Hall. 
 
 The Buildings of the AgrievMural Bu- 
 reau are on the "Island" between Thir- 
 teenth and Fourteenth Streets. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens occupy the 
 square immediately west of the Capitol, 
 on Pennsylvania Avenue. The entrance 
 is on First Street. These Gardens are 
 under the control of the Library Com- 
 mittee of Congress, and are free to 
 visitors. The extensive conservatories 
 belonging to them are filled with many 
 rare and curious plants, and will repay a 
 visit. 
 
 The Congressional Cemetery is about 
 a mile east of the Capitol, near the East- 
 em Branch. Its situation is high, and 
 commands fine pictures of the surround- 
 ing country. Its original name was the 
 "Washington Parish Burial-Ground." 
 The cemetery contains several monu- 
 ment of interest, among which are those 
 to George Clinton, Elbridge Gerry, and 
 William Wirt. Several distinguished 
 military and naval officers also are buried 
 here, among them Major-General Mc- 
 Comb, the predecessor of Lieutenant- 
 General Scott as commander-in-chief; 
 
Washington Cut.] 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 [GEORGETOwil. 
 
 Major-General Jacob Brown, General 
 Gibson, General Archibald Henderson, 
 and Commodore Isaac Chauncey. Also, 
 Hon. A. P. Upshur, Secretary of State 
 under John Tyler, and Messrs. John W. 
 Maury, and John Towers, ex-mayor of 
 Washington, to whom beautiful monu- 
 ments haTe been erected. In the plain 
 old vault, near the centre of the grounds, 
 the remains of General Taylor and Mr. 
 Calhoun rested for several days. There 
 are upward of 150 cenotaphs erected to 
 the memory of members of Congress who 
 have died during their terms of ofiBce. 
 
 Glenwood, another beautiful city of the 
 dead, is situated about a mile north of 
 the Capitol. 
 
 The principal public buildings of the 
 city (not strictly national) are the City 
 Hall in North D Street, between Fourth 
 and Fifth Streets ; and the Columbia Col- 
 lege, on Fourteenth Street, near the 
 northern limits of the city. 
 
 The rooms of the Vi^asMruiion Library 
 Association, on Eleventh Street, are 
 worthy a visit. The association was 
 incorporated in 1814. The collection num- 
 bers 15,000 volumes. 
 
 The Patent-Office Library is rich in 
 scientific and mechanical works. Here 
 may be found a complete set of the re- 
 ports of the British and French Patent 
 Commissioners. The largest and most 
 valuable private collection of books to be 
 found in Washington is that of Mr. Peter 
 Force ; it numbers upward of 50,000, and 
 is specially rich in works on American 
 history. Its loss would be a national 
 calamity. 
 
 The British Embassy is at present 
 located at the comer of Sixteenth and I 
 Streets. 
 
 rOTE AETS. 
 
 The Corcoran QaUery of Art is situ- 
 ated on the northwest comer of Pennsyl- 
 vania Avenue and Seventeenth Street, 
 opposite the War Department. The 
 building is in the French Renaissance 
 style of architecture. 
 
 The grand entrance is on Pennsylvania 
 Avenue, and opens into a vestibule, 25 
 feet by 28 feet, from which broad stairs 
 of freestone lead to the second story. 
 On the first floor, passages 8 feet 4 inches 
 ?ride afford access to the Gallery of 
 
 Sculpture in the rear. The vestibule to 
 this Gallery is 19 feet by 28 feet, with 
 spacious bay windows at each end. The 
 Gallery itself extends across the rear of 
 the building, and is 96 feet by 25 feet. 
 Ample light is obtained by ten windows. 
 Connected with the Main Sculpture Gal- 
 lery by arched doors are two rooms : 
 one, 19 feet by 46 feet 6 inches ; the 
 other, 19 feet square. These can be 
 used for a school of design. On the left 
 of the vestibule on the first floor there is 
 another gallery, facing Pennsylvania Ave- 
 nue, 25 feet by 32 feet 10 inches. 
 
 The Picture Gallery is on the second 
 floor. It is entered by a handsome Hall, 
 28 feet by 42 feet 6 inches, on either 
 side of which the various galleries for 
 pictures are situated. Of the three small 
 galleries fronting on Pennsylvania Ave- 
 nue, the centre one, an octagon 25 feet 
 on the floor, is intended for valuable or 
 famous pictures. 
 
 The Main Picture OcHlery extends 
 across the rear of the buildings, and is 
 45 feet by 96 feet 4 inches. All these 
 galleries are lighted by sky-lights, and 
 the Main Gallery, at night, by 300 gas- 
 jets at the roof. 
 
 Mr. Corcoran's collection contains, 
 among other famous paintings : 
 
 1. Shakespeare and his Friends. By 
 
 Faed. The original, from which 
 so many copies have been taken. 
 
 2. Milton at Home, entertaining Crom- 
 
 well and his family with music on 
 the organ. By Leutze. 
 
 3. The Adoration of the Shepherds. This 
 
 was brought to the United States 
 by Joseph Bonaparte, and has 
 been pronounced one of the best 
 efforts of Mengs. 
 
 4. Moonrise at Madeira. ByHildebrandt. 
 
 5. The Departure and the Return. By 
 
 Cole. These are scenes from Feu- 
 dal times. 
 
 6. Mercy's Dream. By Huntington. 
 
 It is hardly necessary for us to say 
 that this building and collection of paint- 
 ings and other works of art are the muni- 
 ficent gift of W. H. Corcoran. 
 
 VICINITY or WASHmeiON. 
 
 ©eorgetOTPrm. — Hotels. The Un- 
 ion, comer of Bridge and Washington 
 41 
 
Georgetown.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Ablinstos. 
 
 Streets, is the best. Distant little more 
 than two miles from Capitol Hill, and di- 
 vided only by Rock Creek from Washing- 
 ton City, Georgetown may be almost re- 
 garded as forming a suburb of the na- 
 tional capital. Since the introduction of 
 street-cars, the tide of travel between the 
 two cities is very great. The city is beauti- 
 fully located on a range of hills, which 
 command a view unsurpassed for extent 
 and beauty ia the Potomac Valley. It was 
 laid out by act of the colonial government 
 of Maryland, June 8, 1751, and was incor- 
 porated December 25, 1789. It is a port 
 of entry, and carries on a considerable 
 coasting trade ; a line of steamships plies 
 between New Tork and this port. The 
 city presents many points of attraction. 
 The Seights should first be visited, as 
 from them the relative distance and di- 
 rection of other points and localities can 
 be readily obtained. The Aqueduct, by 
 which the waters of the Chesapeake & 
 Ohio Canal are carried over the Potomac, 
 will repay inspection. It Is 1,446 feet 
 long and 36 feet high. The conduit has 
 a nine-foot vent, and discharges 68,000,- 
 000 gallons in twenty-four hours. The 
 piers, nine in number, are built of granite, 
 embedded 17 feet in the river bottom. It 
 was constructed under the direction of 
 Major Tumbull, U. S. Topographical En- 
 gineers, and cost |2,000,000. The canal 
 extends 184 miles to Cumberland, Mary- 
 land, and cost $12,000,000. Georgetown 
 College, at the west end of the city, is an 
 old institution of learning, and the most 
 eminent belonging to the Roman Catholic 
 Church in the United States. The first 
 edifice was commenced in 1788, and com- 
 pleted in 1795. In. 1799 it became " The 
 College of Georgetown." In May, 1815, 
 it was incorporated a umversity. The 
 Medical Department was added in 1851. 
 The buildings are spacious, and contain a 
 well-selected library of 25,000 volumes, 
 possessing, also, some beautifully illumi- 
 nated missals, and rich in rare old MSS., 
 an observatory, and a Museum of Nat- 
 ural History. It is under the direction 
 of the Jesuits. In the rear of the college 
 is a pretty rural serpentine walk, com- 
 manding a still prettier view. 
 
 The Convent of the Visitation, founded 
 in 1799, is on Fayette Street. The building 
 appropriated for the Ladies' Academy is 
 42 
 
 of brick, about 250 feet in length ; the 
 interior is a combination of neatness and 
 elegance. Visitors are admitted between 
 the hours of 11 and 2 o'clock. The resi- 
 dence of the archbishop of the diocese is 
 near by. On the heights north of the 
 convent is an Asylum for Destitute Color- 
 ed Women and Children. Oak Hill Ceme- 
 tery, on the northeastern declivity of the 
 heights, is a romantic burying-ground. 
 It was laid out in 1849, by its donor, Mr. 
 Corcoran, whose vault of white marble 
 occupies a prominent place in the ceme- 
 tery. The granite monument to M. Bo- 
 disco, the late Russian minister, is wor- 
 thy of notice ; it was sent from St. Pe- 
 tersburg by the Russian Government. 
 An elegant Gothic chapel with stained- 
 glass windows, planned by Renwick, and 
 now mvergrown with ivy, is an attractive 
 feature of this really pretty spot. 
 
 Georgetown contains several churches, 
 a flourishing academy, and other edu- 
 cational institutions. Population about 
 12,000. 
 
 The Potomac in the vicinity of George- 
 town abounds in fish ; shad and herring 
 are taken in great abundance, large quan- 
 tities being exported monthly through 
 the season. A dish of baked shad con- 
 stitutes one of the dinner-table attractions 
 of the District. 
 
 Arling'ton. — Arlington House, 
 once the mansion of George Washington 
 Parke Custis, the last but one survivor 
 of the Washington family, occupies a 
 commanding position on the Virginia side 
 of the river, nearly opposite Georgetown. 
 It stands more than 200 feet above the 
 river, and the view from the portico 
 of the building is among the best this 
 part of the Potomac affords. The col- 
 lection of pictures and other relics, 
 among them the Mount Vernon plate and 
 the bed and bedstead of Washington, 
 have passed into other hands. Before 
 the war, Arlington formed part of the 
 estate of Robert E. Lee, afterward 
 known as the Commander-in-chief of the 
 Confederate army. The lavages of war 
 have laid waste this once lovely spot. 
 The beautiful heights upon which the 
 house and grounds stood were occupied 
 by Union troops May 2, 1861,; they are 
 now occupied by the FreedmmCs VUlage. 
 Fort Albany ia near by. 
 
Ablington.] 
 
 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 
 
 [MOTTHT VeRNOH. 
 
 The approaches to Arlington are by 
 way of the Long Bridge, the Aqueduct 
 Bridge at Georgetown, or a ferry at the 
 same place, or by a still longer route, 
 which will give the visitor a view of the 
 river above tide-water, crossing it at 
 what is known as the Chain Bridge, some 
 three miles above Georgetown. The house 
 is upon a gentle eminence, from which 
 one has a fine view of the Capital. The 
 lower rooms are open to the public. In 
 the office of the Superintendent a register 
 is kept for visitors, and a record of all 
 who are buried in the National Cemete- 
 ries upon the place. Near the house and 
 bordering the drive approaching from 
 the south, are the graves of a number of 
 officers who died during the war. Close 
 by is a low, massive granite monument, 
 bearing the following inscription : 
 
 Beneath this stone 
 repose the bones of two thousand one hnndred and eleven 
 
 nnknown soldiers, gathered, after the war, from 
 
 the fields of Bull Rnn and the route to the Rappahannock ; 
 
 their remains could not be identified, but their names 
 
 and deaths are recorded in the archires of the 
 
 country, and its gratejiil citizens 
 
 honor them as of their noble army of martyrs. 
 
 May they rest in peace. 
 
 September, A. D. 1866. 
 
 The vault is 30 feet deep and 20 feet 
 in diameter. Continuing on down the 
 carriage-way, we come to the largest of 
 the two Cemeteries, where lie buried the 
 remains of over nine thousand soldiers. 
 The names of the men, with their compa- 
 nies and regiments, are painted upon neat 
 white head-boards. On some of the 
 latter the word " unknown " is to be 
 seen, while over the graves of others are 
 marble monuments. In the eastern divi- 
 sion of the Cemetery, within a small 
 enclosure, are two monuments bearing 
 respectively the following inscriptions : 
 
 GEOEOE WASHOrGTON PAKKE CUSTIS, 
 
 Bom April 30th, 1783 ; 
 
 Died October 10th, 1854. 
 
 MARY L. CUSTIS, 
 Bom AprU SM, 1788 ; 
 Died AprU 23d, 1853. 
 
 About a half-mile north of the house, 
 and separated from it by a splendid 
 growth of oak and other forest trees, is 
 still another cemetery. In this some four 
 thousand bodies are buried, the greater 
 portion being those of negro soldiers and 
 " contrabands " who died while under the 
 
 care of the Government. In the two 
 Cemeteries on the place, there are in all 
 about fifteen thousand graves. 
 
 WAsmwaTON to mount yernon: 
 
 Dovm the Potomac. 
 
 Mount Ternon. is 15 miles be- 
 low Washington, on the Virginia side of 
 the Potomac. It is usually reached by 
 steamers, which during the season ot 
 navigation run daily, Sundays excepted. 
 Another way to reach this place is by 
 ferry to Alexandria, and thence by road. 
 
 The sail down the Potomac is delight- 
 ful. The scenery is neither bold nor 
 picturesque, but is well defined, and in 
 many of its features, beautiful. The 
 shore on either side is traced by a line 
 of yellowish sandy bluffs, not very high, 
 but wavy in their outline, and clothed to 
 the water edge with young forest wood ; 
 with a background of rolling upland, on 
 which there is the same crown of forest 
 timber, sombre in the distance, and 
 stretches of corn and pasture visible in 
 the middle space, over which a brown 
 and moorish aspect rests. With Mary- 
 land on one shore of the Potomac and 
 Virginia on the other, the great white- 
 coated steamboat, drawing only two or 
 three feet of water, glides rapidly on. 
 There is no want of objects made memor- 
 able by the war, if nothing else, to arrest 
 attention. Without even looking back 
 on the city of Washington, with the dome 
 of its Capitol always prominent, but al- 
 ways less enchanting as distance brings 
 it iato more critical view, there is the 
 long bridge, slanting many miles over the 
 shallows of the estuary from Washington 
 toward Alexandria, across which the 
 Federal troops defiled to meet the hosts 
 of the Confederacy; overlooking it is 
 Arlington House, the residence in ante- 
 war times of General Lee, now the prop- 
 erty of the Federal Government on an 
 arrear-of-taxes title, and converted into a 
 military cemetery ; on the other side is 
 Navy Yard, and away down on the Vir- 
 ginia shore is Alexandria, with the stee- 
 ple visible of Christ Church, to which, 
 though ten miles from Mount Vernon, 
 General Washington was accustomed to 
 go with his household for Divine worship, 
 and where a pew Bible of his is still pre- 
 43 
 
MonjJT Vernon.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Potomac Little Faus, 
 
 served as a sacred relic. The remains of 
 earthworks are seen on some of the 
 the higher ground on both banks, and 
 Fort Foote, an extempore construction, 
 armed with heavy guns, is still a power 
 on the Maryland shore. On the same 
 side is Fort Washington, an old defence 
 of solid mason-work, which was destroyed 
 in the war of 181 2, and afterward rebuilt. 
 
 Mount Vernon is 8 miles from Alexan- 
 dria. Mount Vernon, then known as the 
 Hunting Creek estate, was bequeathed 
 by Augustine Washington, who died in 
 1743, to Lawrence Washington, who re- 
 ceived a captain's commission in one 
 of the four regiments raised in the colo- 
 nies, to aid the mother country in her 
 struggle against France and Spain. It 
 was named after Admiral Vernon, under 
 whom Lawrence Washington had served, 
 and for whom he cherished a strong 
 affection. The central part of the man- 
 sion, which is of wood, was erected by 
 Lawrence, and the~ wings by Greorge 
 Washmgton. It contains many valu- 
 able historical relics, among which are 
 the key of the Bastile, presented by La- 
 fayette, portions of the military and per- 
 sonal furniture of Washington, the pitch- 
 er, portrait, etc. 
 
 The tomb of Washington, which is now 
 fast going to decay, occupies a more pic- 
 turesque situation than the present one, 
 being upon an elevation in full view of 
 the river. The new tomb, into which the 
 remains were removed in 1837, and sub- 
 
 44 
 
 sequently placed within a marble sarcoph- 
 agus, stands in a more retired situation, 
 a short distance from the house. It con- 
 sists of a plain but solid structure of 
 brick, with an iron gate at its entrance. 
 Above the arch of this vault are inscribed 
 the following lines : 
 
 " Within this enclosure rest the remains of 
 Gehxkal Geobgb Wasbihgtoh." 
 
 The Mount Vernon domain, which has 
 remained since the death of Washington 
 in the possession of his descendants, was 
 purchased a few years ago for the sum 
 of $200,000, raised by subscription, un- 
 der the auspices of a society of ladies 
 known as the "Ladies' Mount Vernon 
 Union Association." It is therefore, and 
 will continue to be, the property of the 
 nation. In this noble movement Edward 
 Everett took a distinguished and active 
 part. 
 
 Xhe I^ittle WaUa oftbe Po- 
 tomac, three miles above Georgetown, 
 are a succession of romantic cascades at 
 the head of tide-water. The scenery is 
 wild and picturesque, and the waters 
 abound in fish ; striped bass is the most 
 common. These waters were a favorite 
 angling-haunt of Daniel Webster, and no 
 spot within easy reach of the visitor to 
 the Capital presents more varied attrac- 
 tions. Great FaUs, 12 mUes beyond, 
 present a scene of unusual, picturesque, 
 and grand effect. The road thither af- 
 fords a pleasant carriage drive. 
 
Dblaitabe.] 
 
 DELAWARE. 
 
 [Belattabs. 
 
 DELAWAEE. 
 
 Delaware is, next to Bhode Island, the 
 smallest State in the Union — her greatest 
 length and breadth being respectively 
 only 95 and 85 mUes, and containing 
 2,002.6 square miles. 
 
 The State and bay bearing the same 
 name were first discovered by Henry 
 Hudson on the 28th of August, 1609, six 
 days before he entered the Hudson 
 River; but the Delaware (South, the 
 Hudson being called the North River) 
 River was not explored till 1616, when 
 Captain Hendrickson sailed up it as far 
 as the Schuylkill and also landed on 
 Delaware soil. The early settlements of 
 the State were made by the Swedes and 
 Dutch ; and, although the former are 
 sometimes accredited with the priority in 
 point of time, the Dutch were really the 
 first settlers, having planted colonies 
 along the shores about the year 1621 
 or 1622. New Amstel (now known as 
 New Castle) was a Dutch settlement, and 
 Giles Osset, who administered the affairs 
 of the Dutch colony, massacred at Lewis- 
 town, was the first Governor of the State, 
 although that honor has been ascribed to 
 Peter Miuuit. However, the first per- 
 manent settlement was made by the 
 Swedes in 1637, at Christina, where is the 
 present city of Wilmington. 
 
 The Dutch and Swedes had fre- 
 quent contentions, tUl the latter, after 
 a rule of about seventeen years, were 
 overcome in 1655 by the former, who in 
 turn succumbed to'the English in 1664. 
 
 The Duke of York, claiming Delaware 
 under a charter to him from Charles II., 
 March 12, 1664, granted to William 
 Penn the whole State on August 24, 
 1682, in two deeds of feoffment, one con- 
 veying New Castle and the country 
 around within a circle of twelve miles ; 
 the other deeding the remaining part, 
 Bouth to Cape Henlopen. These coun- 
 
 ties were annexed to Pennsylvania on 
 December 10, 1682, and continued so 
 united till 1701 to 1704. 
 
 The landscape of the northern portion 
 of Delaware is agreeably varied with pic- 
 turesque hills and pleasant vales. In the 
 central and southern portions of the State 
 the country is level, ending in marsh and 
 swamp lands. 
 
 The soil in the extreme upper part 
 consists of an alluvial deposit, varying in 
 depth from one to sixty feet, and cover- 
 ing beds of rocks ninety-nine one-hun- 
 dredths of which are gneiss and feldspathic, 
 or the " blue rock " of the Brandywine, 
 celebrated for its durability for building 
 purposes. South of the Christiana River 
 is the upper secondary or red clay for- 
 mation. Along the Delaware and Chesa- 
 peake Canal the green sand or marl 
 abounds. Between St. George's Hundred 
 and the lower part of Kent County are 
 series of clay and sand beds, containing 
 organic remains, and known as the tertiary 
 formation. In Sussex, the lower county, 
 is the recent formation, a deposit of clay 
 and sand. River deposits are to be 
 found along the various indentations of 
 the shore. 
 
 The dimate in the northern part of the 
 State is occasionally severe in winter, 
 but in the southern portion it is mucii 
 milder, owing to the ameliorating in- 
 fluences of the sea. 
 
 Produciiom. — The cereal grains are as 
 yet the staples ; but these are gradually 
 yielding to the cultivation of horticul- 
 tural productions. Vegetables, and all 
 kinds of fruit-trees and plants, except 
 those grown in the tropics, flourish in 
 abundance ; and, with cheaper and more 
 convenient means of transportation to 
 the markets of our larger cities, the 
 whole peninsula will, in time, present the 
 appearance of a beautiful garden. One 
 46 
 
POPDLATIOU, EXC] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [RociEB AND Stations. 
 
 of the chief sources of revenue is derived 
 from the peach-trade. The yearly ship- 
 ments of that delicious fruit amount to 
 from two to four millions of baskets. 
 The cannmg interest is also quite exten- 
 sive, and, during the summer months, 
 large quantities of fruit, vegetables, and 
 oysters are consumed at the different 
 canning-establishments located through- 
 out the State. 
 
 The population of Delaware in 1860 
 was 112,216, of whom 21,627 were col- 
 ored. In 1870 there were 126,015 citi- 
 zens, 26,696 of whom were colored ; 115,- 
 879 were native-born, 9,136 of foreign 
 birth. The total valuation of real and 
 personal estate for the years 1860 and 
 1870 were, respectively, $39,767,233 and 
 $64,787,223. 
 
 The only considerable waters of the 
 State are the Delaware River and Bay on 
 its eastern boundary, and the Christiana, 
 which bids fair to rival the Clyde in its 
 ship-building interests. Duck, Jones, 
 and MispiUion Creeks, each emptying into 
 the bay, are respectively the outlets for 
 the commerce of Smyrna, Dover, and 
 Milford. The Brandywine is a romantic 
 stream, famous for the Revolutionary 
 battle fought upon its banks near the 
 limits of this State, September, 1777. 
 Lords Cornwallis and Howe, Generals 
 Washington, Lafayette, Greene, Wayne, 
 and other distinguished English, and 
 American leaders took part in this mem- 
 orable conflict. The Americans retreat- 
 ed to Germantown, with a loss of 1,200 
 men, while the British remained in pos- 
 session of the field, with a loss of about 
 800. ' The banks of the Brandywine are 
 lined with numerous factories, such as 
 paper, woollen, and cotton mills, and the 
 celebrated powder- works of the Messieurs 
 Dupont. 
 
 Though strongly urged to join the 
 Southern States in the secession move- 
 ment, Delaware remained true to the 
 Union throughout the war, and furnished 
 to the Federal army 8 full regiments of 
 infantry, 1 battalion of cavalry, and 1 
 battery of artillery. 
 
 Routes. — The direct routes between 
 Philadelphia and Baltimore are — ^the 
 Eailway Line and the Steamboat and 
 Hallway alternately. The distance by 
 the former route is 98 miles ; time, four 
 46 
 
 hours. Tourists, with ample time, and 
 who are desirous of varying the route of 
 travel, will find that over the Columbia 
 Branch of the Pennsylvania Central Bail- 
 way to Columbia, on the Susquehanna 
 River, thence to York, and thence by 
 Northern Central 'Railway to Baltimore, 
 a very pleasant excursion. Distance, 153 
 miles. Another route open to tourists ia 
 from Philadelphia by steamboat down 
 the Delaware River to Delaware City, 46 
 miles ; thence through the Chesapeake & 
 Delaware Canal, 16 miles ; and thence 
 down Elk River and Chesapeake Bay, 
 and up the Patapsco River to Baltimore, 
 56 miles; total, 116 miles. The great 
 feature of interest on this route, and 
 perhaps the only inducement to deviate 
 from the regularly travelled route by the 
 JPhiladelphia, Wilmington & JBaltimore 
 Railway, would be the pleasure of seeing 
 the formidable excavation on the Chesa- 
 peake & Delaware Canal, termed the 
 "Deep Cut," which extends for six 
 miles, and is 70 feet deep in the deepest 
 part. A bridge of 235 feet span extends 
 over this great chasm, at an elevation of 
 90 feet above the canal, under which 
 steamboats, schooners, and other small 
 vessels can pass.- This canal is 66 feet 
 wide at the surface, and 10 feet deep, 
 with two lift and two tide locks, 100 feet 
 long by 22 wide. It was completed in 
 1829, at a cost of $2,750,000. As al- 
 ready stated, the shortest, most expedi- 
 tious, and by far the most popular line 
 of travel between Philadelphia and Balti- 
 more is that afforded by the Philadelphia, 
 Wilmington & Baltimore Railway. This 
 fine road, the result of a combination of 
 three companies, has been completed and 
 in operation since February, 1838. The 
 cost of road and equipment has been up- 
 ward of $10,000,000, and its manage- 
 ment has been such as to inspire the 
 utmost confidence and the most liberal 
 support. 
 
 BOUTJE I. 
 
 PEILADSLPmA, WILMINaTOW. SAVBB 
 DE OBACE, AND BALTIMORE. 
 
 Via PhUadel^Ma, Wilminffton db BalUmore 
 BaiUoay: Passenger JDepot, Broad Street, 
 comer WasMngton Avenue. 
 Stations : — Gray's Ferry, 2 miles (con- 
 nects with roads diverging from Philadel- 
 
Chestes.] 
 
 DELAWARE. 
 
 [WllMlNQTOK, 
 
 phia) ; Bell Road, 6 ; Lazaretto, 11 ; Tini- 
 cuni, 12 ; Chester, 14 ; Lamokin, 15 (con- 
 neeta with Philadelphia & Baltimore Cen- 
 tral Railway) ; Thurlow, 16 ; Linwood, 18 ; 
 Claymont, 20 ; HoUyoak, 22 ; Bellevue, 
 23; EUerslie, 26; WUmington, 28 (connects 
 with Delaware Railway line) ; Delaware 
 Junction, 30 ; Newport, 32 ; Stanton, 84 ; 
 Newark, 40 ; Elkton, 46 ; North East, 
 52 ; Charlestown, 55 ; Priucipio, 58 ; Per- 
 ryviUe, 61 (connects with Port Deposit 
 Branch Railway); Port Deposit, 65; 
 Havre de Grace, 62 ; Oakington, 64 ; Ab- 
 erdeen, 6T ; Perryman's, 71 ; Bush River, 
 Edgewood, 11 • Magnolia, 79 ; Chase's, 
 83 ; Stemmer's Run, 89 ; Back River, 
 91 ; Baltunore, 98. 
 
 Leaving the depot, the route lies 
 through the now busy suburbs to the 
 Schuylkill River, at Gray's Ferry, which is 
 crossed over a handsome bridge in view 
 of Woodlands Cenfetery. An obelisk, 
 built by the railroad company, to com- 
 memorate its completion, stands on the 
 right, near the bridge, which is some- 
 times referred to as the " Newark Via- 
 duct." Passing the Lazaretto, a large 
 building surmounted by a cupola, stand- 
 ing on the banks of the Delaware, 11 
 miles from Philadelphia, we shortly 
 reach 
 
 Chester (14 miles), interesting to 
 the tourist as the point where the Ameri- 
 can army crossed the Delaware m 1777, 
 to intercept the British troops on their 
 march to Philadelphia. It is at the 
 mouth of Chester Creek, and is divided 
 by that stream. It has the distinction 
 of being the oldest town in the State, 
 having been settled by the Swedes in 
 1643. Its original name was Upland. 
 The Indian name was Mecoponaca. Ex- 
 tensive dairies are in the neighborhood. 
 The Provincial Assembly was held here 
 in 1682, William Penn being then Gover- 
 nor. The precise spot where Pennland- 
 ed (November, 1682), on the bank of the 
 Delaware, south of Chester Creek, and 
 marked by a holly, is still pointed out. 
 The old Cmtrt-Home, erected in 1724, is 
 an object of interest. Population, 9,485. 
 
 Four miles beyond Chester we reach 
 the line which divides the Keystone 
 State from Delaware, and, crossing Naa- 
 raan's Creek (Claymont), a little beyond 
 Linwood Station (Marcus Hook of the 
 
 Dutch), we reach the Brandywine, famous 
 for the battle fought on its banks Sep- 
 tember, 1777, and soon after Bellevue 
 (23 Dules). WoolUm Sail, on the right, 
 is a handsome mansion in the Norman 
 style, finished in 1855. 
 
 ^Viliuin§^tom (28 miles). — Hotels 
 number twenty-five or twenty-six; the 
 best is the new iron-front hotel comer 
 of Market and Fifth Streets, on the site 
 of the old Indian Queen. Wilmington, 
 the most important town between Phila- 
 delphia and Baltimore, is situated be- 
 tween the Brandywine River and the 
 Christiana Creek (Minquas), one mile 
 above their junction, and in the midst of 
 one of the finest agricultural districts in 
 the Middle States. It occupies the site 
 of Fort Christina, and the village built 
 back of it, and called by the Dutch 
 Christinaham. On the surrender of the 
 Dutch possessions in Delaware (1664)," 
 Fort Altona, the name given it by the 
 Dutch, was changed to its old name of 
 Christina. It is built on ground gradual- 
 ly rising to the height of 112 feet above 
 tidewater, and is regularly laid out, with 
 broad streets crossing each other at right 
 angles. In 1777 it was occupied by the 
 British. It was originally chartered as 
 the " Borough of Wilmington " by George 
 n., Nov. 16, 1739. This charter was 
 amended by the General Assembly of Del- 
 aware in 1809; and in 1832 Wilmington 
 was incorporated as a city. Since 1860, 
 both its business and population have 
 much increased : at that time it con- 
 tained about 20,000 inhabitants, and now 
 the population numbers 30,841. The Old 
 Swedes Church, the corner-stone of which 
 was laid May 28, 1698, is worthy a visit. 
 The churchyard surrounding it contains 
 some quaint epitaphs. On the Brandy- 
 wine River, which supplies the city with 
 water, are some of the finest flouring- 
 mills in the United States, to which ves- 
 sels can come drawing eight feet of water. 
 It contains also ship and steamboat 
 yards, a foundery for the manufacture of 
 patent car-wheels, which are used all 
 over the country, and a number of large 
 manufacturing establishments of various 
 kinds. DuponVs famous Powder Mills 
 are in the vicinity. It is the seat of a 
 Catholic College (the Academy of Visita- 
 tion), and is generally distinguished for 
 47 
 
Staston.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Elktok. 
 
 its academies and boarding-schools. — ^A 
 Masonic Temple, four stories high, with 
 an imposing iron front, recently erected, 
 is an ornament to the place. Within the 
 temple is a very handsome theatre, cap- 
 able of seating 1,418 persons. Cfrace 
 Church is one of the most beautiful 
 churches of the Methodist denomination 
 in the United States. It is built of ser- 
 pentine stone. Wilmington is connected 
 with New Castle, Dover, Milford, Sea- 
 ford, Salisbury, and Princess Anne, by 
 the Delaware KaUway line, which inter- 
 sects the Philadelphia and Baltimore line 
 at this point. (SeeEoDTElI.) Passengers 
 by evening trains from Philadelphia to 
 Baltimore, desirous to see Wilmington, 
 can procure " lie-over tickets " by apply- 
 ing to the conductor. The Wilmington 
 & Beading Railway extends through a 
 beautiful section of country, connecting 
 the above-named cities. The Wilming- 
 ton & Western Railway is just completed 
 as far as Landenberg, Pa. It connects 
 there with a projected railroad to be con- 
 structed from Delaware City to Pomeroy, 
 Pa., and will then be built farther west- 
 ward. 
 
 Four miles southwest of Wilmington 
 lies the village of Newport (32 miles), the 
 point of departure for the Brandywine 
 Springs, three miles distant. Newport 
 lays considerable claim to antiquity, hav- 
 ing been founded by Swedes and Knns 
 in 1639. 
 
 Stanton. (34 miles) is a pleasant 
 little village, lying a short distance north 
 of the railroad. This is the highest point 
 between the Chesapeake and Delaware 
 Bays, the rivers and streams (White Clay 
 and Red Clay Creeks) on either side of 
 it flowing respectively into them. On 
 Red Clay Creek the American army was 
 encamped, September 8, 1^11. 
 Six miles beyond Stanton is 
 WeTrarli: (40 miles), the seat oi Dela- 
 ware College, Newark Academy, and other 
 educational institutions. This locality 
 was the scene of some fighting between 
 the British and American forces, August, 
 1'77T. Two miles farther, and four from 
 Elkton Station, the train crosses Mason 
 and DhuyrCs litie, run by Charles Mason 
 and Jeremiah Dixon in 1762— 'eY to sepa- 
 rate the territories of Lord Baltimore 
 and Thomas and Richard Penn, sons of 
 48 
 
 William Penn. Itwasresurveyedinl849, 
 and found to be substantially correct. 
 This line was long the boundary be- 
 tween the Northern and Southern States. 
 
 A writer, recording Its history before 
 the war of 1861-'65, thus speaks of this 
 famous line: "The mere fact, that it 
 points out the boundary between two 
 States of the Confederacy, would be in- 
 sufficient to elevate it to a dignity be- 
 yond that of similar conventional barriers 
 elsewhere, but it has assumed a far 
 higher grade of importance in the politi- 
 cal world, from having furnished, in a 
 portion of its length, a line of demarca- 
 tion between slaveholding and non- 
 slaveholding territory. This circumstance 
 has nearly buried in obhvion its original 
 and simple character as a boundary be- 
 tween adjoining Commonwealths, and has 
 given it, in the minds of men, certain 
 hypothetical extensions which have 
 changed its reputed ' place of beginning,' 
 and its terminus, from time to time, un- 
 til it has come to be regarded by many 
 as extending from the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific. It now figures, in American po- 
 litical discussions, in this ideal character, 
 and involves itself with some of the most 
 difficult and most dangerous questions 
 which agitate the public mind." The 
 original line was 327 miles long, and was 
 designated by stone pillars, four feet 
 long, set one mile apart. These pillars 
 were engraved in England, with the arms 
 of the Calvert and Penn families. Some 
 of them are still standing, though scarce- 
 ly recognizable. While, with the extinc- 
 tion of slavery in the United States, this 
 line has lost much of its significance, the 
 interest attaching to it has largely in- 
 creased. Two large stones, known as 
 the Tangent Point, standing in an open 
 field within a hundred yards of the rail- 
 road, mark the commencement of the 
 line. 
 
 Elkton (46 miles), the county seat 
 of Cecil County, is at the head of naviga- 
 tion on the Elk River, whence its name 
 "Head of Elk," changed to Elkton m 
 1787. The first settlement was made in 
 1694 by Swedish fishermen from Port 
 Cassimer (New Castle). Previous to 1787 
 courts were held at " Court-House Point," 
 10 miles below, on the river. The Court- 
 House, buat in 1791, is an interesting 
 
Charlestown.] 
 
 DELAWARE. 
 
 [Hatbe db Gbacb. 
 
 edifice. Near this place the British army, 
 under Sir William Howe, landed in 1777, 
 and marched to Philadelphia. Formerly 
 stages left Elkton daily for the Eastern 
 Shore of Maryland. The route now is 
 fi'om Wilmington by the Philadelphia, 
 Wilmington & Baltimore Railway (see 
 RoTiTE II). Northeast Railway Station 
 (52 miles) has an extensive iron furnace, 
 etc. 
 
 CharlestOTVii (66 miles), near the 
 mouth of the Northeast Kiver, is a place 
 with some claims to antiquity, having 
 been settled in 1742. This and the neigh- 
 boring village of Northeast were burned 
 by the British under Admiral Cociibum 
 (1813). The Brick Meeting-house, ten 
 miles from Northeast, was built by Wil- 
 liam Penn for the Society of Friends. 
 Gilpin's Rock, at the crossing of the 
 river, is a favorite picnic place. 
 
 Three miles from Charlestown the train 
 crosses the Principio Creek, explored by 
 the renowned Captain John Smith in 
 1608, near the Principio Iron Furnace, 
 and soon after reaches Perryville, former- 
 ly Cecil. Here the train crosses the 
 Susquehanna Kiver, on a fine bridge one 
 mile in length, to Havre de Grace. 
 
 Havre de Ora«e (62 miles from 
 Philadelphia, 150 from New York). This 
 town, laid out in 1776, was also burned 
 by the British in the War of 1812. It 
 is the southern terminus of the Tidewater 
 Canal, famous for its scenery. In cross- 
 ing, a fine view is had of the river, Ches- 
 apeake Bay, and town of Port Deposit, 
 on the east bank of the Susquehanna, to 
 the mouth. Steamboat to Port Deposit. 
 The bridge, so long in process of con- 
 struction, was finished in January, 1867 ; 
 the cost exceeded $1,250,000. From 
 Havre de Grace westward, the road lies 
 through Maryland, 36 miles, to the city 
 of Baltimore. The most noteworthy ob- 
 jects en route thither are the Spesutia 
 Church, at Perrymansville (71 miles), 
 built (1861) on the site of the original 
 wooden building, erected in 1670, and the 
 bridges over the Bush and Gunpowder 
 Rivers. The former is 3,138 feet, and the 
 latter 5,250 feet long. These bridges 
 were partially destroyed by a mob from 
 Baltimore, May, 1861, and again in 1864. 
 Maxwell's Point, three miles below the 
 Gunpowder Bridge, is one of the finest 
 S 
 
 points for gunning on the bay. There is 
 accommodation for visitors. This locality 
 abounds with wild-fowl, and is regarded 
 as the choice spot of the " Chesapeake 
 dunking -grounds." (See Chesapeake 
 Bat.) The Susquehanna River was dis- 
 covered by Captain John Smith, in 1608, 
 at which time the adjacent country was 
 inhabited by a warlilce tribe of Indians 
 called the Sasquetahanaghs. 
 
 Chase's, Stemmer's Run, and Rack 
 River Stations (the latter seven miles 
 from Baltimore) are quickly reached and 
 passed, and soon the towering steeples 
 of the " Monumental City " rise to view. 
 The residence of the late General Stans- 
 bury, whose name is closely connected 
 with the defence of Baltimore (1814), 
 stands near the line, a little east of Back 
 River. In entering Baltimore, the stranger 
 will obtain a view of the Patapsco River, 
 Fort McHenry, and other objects de- 
 scribed in the chapter on Maryland. 
 (For continuation of this route south- 
 ward to Washington and Richmond, etc., 
 see chapters on Maryland and District 
 OF Columbia.) 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 PniLADELPHIA TO THE EASTEEN^ 
 SHOBE. 
 
 Via Philadelphia, Wil/mington & Baltimore, 
 and Ztetaware Railways. 
 
 A PLEASANT detour may be made by 
 leaving the main line {via Philadelphia, 
 Wilmington & Baltimore Railway) at 
 Wilmington, and take the Delaware (Pen- 
 insular) Railway to the Eastern Shore of 
 Maryland. 
 
 Stations : — Wilmington ; Delaware 
 Junction, 2 miles (connects with Philadel- 
 phia, Wilmington & Baltimore Railway) ; 
 Hare's Corner, 4 ; New Castle, 6-J- ; State 
 Road, 9; Bear, 12; Rodney, 13; Kirk- 
 wood, 16-J- ; Mount Pleasant, 20-i ; Mid- 
 dletown, 25 ; Townsend, 29 (connects with 
 Kent County Railway) ; Blackbird, 31 ; 
 Sassafras Road, 35 ; Clayton, 37 (con- 
 nects with Maryland & Delaware Railway 
 to Oxford and tlie Smyrna Branch Road) ; 
 Smyrna, 39 ; Brenford, 39|- ; Moorton, 
 43 ; Du Pont, 46 ; Dover, 47-j ; Camden, 
 60-J- ; Woodside, 54 ; Canterbury, 66 ; 
 Plymouth, 57 ; Felton, 68 ; Harrington, 
 49 
 
New Castle.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Pom Pesn. 
 
 64 (connects with Junction & Bridgewa- 
 ter Railway to Milford, Georgetown, and 
 Lewes) ; Farmington, 68 ; Greenwood, '12 ■ 
 Bridgeville, 11 ; Cannon's, 80 ; Seaford, 
 84 (connects with Dorchester & Delaware 
 Railway to Cambridge) ; Bjoad Creek, 88 ; 
 Laurel, 90; Delmar, 91 ; William's Siding, 
 100 ; Salisbury, 103 (connects with Wi- 
 comico & Pokomoke Railway to Berlin) ; 
 Fo^ktown, 106i ; Eden, 109-i ; Princess 
 Anne, 116 ; Westover, 121 ; Kingston, 
 125 ; Marion„128 ; Hopewell, 132 ; Cris- 
 field, 135 : 163 from Philadelphia (con- 
 nects with steamers for Norfolk, etc., on 
 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday). 
 
 We-w Castle, on the Delaware 
 River, is the eastern terminus of the old 
 Jfew Castle d) FreneJiiown Railway, one 
 of the first railways built in this country. 
 It contains a~ Cowrt-House, Public Li- 
 brary, and several churches. Boats to 
 and from Philadelphia and Cape May call 
 here. The JButler Souse has good accom- 
 modation for travellers. 
 
 ITIitlfUeloTrm (25 miles), on the 
 line of the Delaware Railway, with u 
 population of 1,000, is a pretty and flour- 
 ishing place. The Middletown Academy 
 is a very good institution of learning. 
 
 Smyrna, (39 miles) is quite a busi- 
 ness place, from which are exported an- 
 nually large quantities of grain. Next to 
 Wilmington it is the largest town in the 
 State; population, 2,110. Peaches are 
 grown in greatest abundance and of the 
 finest flavor in this section of the coun- 
 try, extending from around Middletown 
 to Dover and its vicinity. There are two 
 60 
 
 good hotels In Smyrna. The Delaware 
 House is the better. 
 
 I>ovep (48 miles), the capital of the 
 State, is a handsome town, situated on 
 Jones's Creek, about five miles west of 
 the Delaware Bay. The Slate Bmtse is 
 an imposing edifice, with an open lawn 
 in front. Dover contains two good ho- 
 tels, and several elegant private resi- 
 dences; population, 1,906. 
 
 milfivrd. (V3 miles), 25 miles south 
 of Dover, has a large trade.. The Mis- 
 pillion Creek, which is navigable for 
 schooners to this point, divides the town 
 into North and South Milford. Popula- 
 tion, 1,950. 
 
 Seatbrd (84 miles), on the Nanti- 
 coke River, is a place of active trade. 
 The Nanticoke is navigable for steam- 
 boats of light draught to Seaford. 
 
 SaUsbni-y, IMd. (103 miles), the 
 former terminus of the Delaware Rail- 
 way, is on the Wicomico River, 95 miles 
 southeast of Annapolis. It is one of the 
 most flourishing points on the Eastern 
 Shore. 
 
 Crisfield (1S5 miles) is 29 miles 
 beyond Princess Anne. Steamers con- 
 nect here with New York and Norfolk. 
 This route affords speedy transit between 
 Philadelphia and the whole Eastern Shore 
 of Maryland. (See Maetland, for Chesa- 
 peake Bat.) 
 
 Port Penn, on Delaware Bay, 30 
 miles north of Dover, is a watering-place 
 of much resort. There are good bathing, 
 gunning, and fishing, in the vicinity of 
 the Pier Sovse. 
 
VlBGlNIA.! 
 
 VIEGmU. 
 
 ryiECHKIA. 
 
 VIEGmiA. 
 
 Virginia, the oldest of the original 
 thirteen States of the North American 
 Confederacy, and called on that account 
 " the Old Dominion," is bounded on the 
 north by Ohio, PennsylTania, and Mary- 
 land ; on the east by Maryland and the 
 Atlantic Ocean ; on the south by North 
 Carolina and Tennessee ; and on the west 
 by Kentucky and Ohio. Eastern and 
 Western Virginia are here included, it 
 will be seen, under one general heading, 
 for purposes of convenience. Virginia 
 received its name from Elizabeth, the 
 " Virgin Queen," and originally em- 
 braced the territory between 34° and 45° 
 north latitude ; that is, from South Caro- 
 lina to Maine. The first settlement, and 
 the oldest permanent one by English- 
 men in North America, was made at 
 Jamestown, on James River, in 1607, by 
 Captain John Smith. The sufferings of 
 the original colonists were great, from 
 famine, disease, and the persistent hostil- 
 ity of the savages ; and Smith, the head 
 of the colony, was only preserved from 
 death, when in the power of the Indians, 
 by the heroic interposition of Pocahon- 
 tas, the daughter of Powhatan, King of 
 Virginia. The settlement gradually pros- 
 pered, and extended inland, following 
 the line of James River. Accessions to 
 the population arrived from time to time, 
 composed of intelligent and energetic 
 persons. Tobacco and cereals were 
 raised and exported to England, and in 
 1619 a Dutch ship landed twenty negroes 
 — the first brought to North America. 
 With the exception of the Indian wars, 
 few events of general interest occurred 
 during the early history of the colony. 
 These wars terminated in 1676, when 
 Nathaniel Bacon defeated the savages at 
 "Bloody Run," in the suburbs of the 
 present city of Richmond. Bacon then 
 quarrelled with the royal Governor, Sir 
 
 William Berkeley; drove him from 
 Jamestown, which was burned ; and the 
 rising had assumed serious proportions 
 when Bacon died suddenly, and Berkeley 
 was reinstated. This " rebellion " has 
 been compared to that in England in 
 1640, and Berkeley and Bacon respec- 
 tively to Charles I. and Cromwell. The 
 colony continued to increase and extend 
 inland. In 1716, Governor Alexander 
 Spottswood marched, at the head of a 
 party of friends, beyond the Blue Ridge, 
 near the present Rockfish Gap, drank 
 the king's health on the summit of the 
 mountain, and discovered the Shenan- 
 doah Valley, in which settlements soon 
 afterward began to be made, chiefly by 
 the hardy and intelligent " Scotch-Irish," 
 with whom mingled a considerable Ger- 
 man element from Pennsylvania. The 
 settlements beyond the Blue Ridge were, 
 however, impeded greatly by the Indians, 
 incited to war against the English by the 
 French, then claiming the great extent 
 of northwestern territory. This hostiUty 
 led to the affair at Great Meadows, in 
 1754, and Braddock's expedition and de- 
 feat near Fort Du Quesne (now Pitts- 
 burg), in 1755. In 1774, however. Gen- 
 eral Andrew Lewis met and completely 
 defeated the enemy at Point Pleasant, on 
 the Ohio, thus protecting the colony 
 from further serious inroads. 
 
 Virginia was now prosperous, and be- 
 gan to assume the character and propor- 
 tions of a commonwealth. The Indian 
 population had disappeared from Tide- 
 water and the Valley, and a peaceful 
 and prosperous society existed there. 
 The landholders east of the Blue Ridge 
 were generally men of large possessions, 
 and members of the Church of England. 
 This was the " Established Church " of 
 the colony, and all tithables, whether of 
 that Church or not, were compelled to 
 51 
 
VlEQIHU.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE; 
 
 [ViisaiinA. 
 
 support it. The governor was appointed 
 by, and represented, the King of Eng- 
 land. He had a "King's Council," com- 
 posed of prominent persons, and the House 
 of Burgesses, elected by freeholders only, 
 was a colonial Parliament. Justice was 
 administered by officials appointed by 
 the governor. Persons of large landed 
 possessions, and members of the Estab- 
 lished Church, were thus the political and 
 social leaders of the colony. This class, 
 who lived in considerable splendor from 
 the cheapness and fertility of the lands, 
 and the possession of large numbers of 
 African and indented servants, formed 
 an influential body, and were jealous of 
 their rights. The home government was 
 regarded with suspicion by them, and the 
 House of Burgesses was remarkable 
 throughout its whole history for its per- 
 sistent opposition to encroachments by 
 the royal authority. 1115, tWa senti- 
 ment led to the Eevolution. Washing- 
 ton, Randolph, the Lees, and other promi- 
 nent persons, headed the rebellion against 
 England. Mason wrote the Virginia 
 " Bill of Rights," which has been called 
 " the comer-stone of human freedom ; " 
 and Jefferson carried through the Bur- 
 gesses' bills, abolishing the right of pri- 
 mogeniture, and the Established Church, 
 thereby putting an end to large estates, 
 descending generation after generation to 
 the representative of the family, and in- 
 augurating religious toleration, one of the 
 first necessities of a free goverment. In 
 the "Declaration of Independence," in 
 July, Ills, written by Jefferson, was the 
 official statement that all men were 
 equal — a summary defiance to monarchy 
 throughout the world. 
 
 Virginia was prominent in the war 
 which followed. She inaugurated the 
 " Committees of Correspondence," which 
 united the colonies for resistance; in 
 June, 1116, declared herself a free and 
 independent State, at Williamsburg, and 
 Jefferson was the author of the general 
 Declaration at Philadelphia. The deter- 
 mination to fight was largely due to the 
 eloquence of Patrick Henry, who, finding 
 that some persons hesitated, exclaimed : 
 " Give me. liberty or give me death ! " 
 Henry subsequently marched, at the head 
 of an armed force, against the royal gov- 
 ernor, Dunmore, and in December, 1776, 
 62 
 
 an engagement occurred at Great Bridge, 
 near Norfolk. In 1780, Arnold sailed up 
 James River and burned a part of Rich- 
 mond. In 1881, Lord Comwallis en- 
 tered Virginia, took possession of Peters- 
 burg, and sent cavalry raids through the 
 State, but in October of the same year 
 surrendered the British forces to Wash- 
 ington at Yorktown, thereby terminating 
 the war, which was followed by a treaty 
 of peace, recognizing the independence 
 of the United States of America. In 
 1788 Virginia ratified the new Federal 
 Constitution, made by delegates from all 
 the States, at Philadelphia, and thus be- 
 came a member of the Union, of which 
 Washington was elected the first Presi- 
 dent. Her history from that time to the 
 middle of the nineteenth century was 
 identified with the history of the General 
 Government, wMch passed successfully 
 through the second war with England, 
 extended gradually westward, and grew 
 in strength, population, and influence. 
 One of the great sources of this prosper- 
 ity was the rapid growth of the North- 
 western States, on and beyond the Ohio 
 River — ^the cheap and fCTtUe soil inviting 
 immigrants who flocked to it, and built 
 up flourishing cities, connected by great 
 lines of railway with the East. This 
 country was, until 1788, a part of Vir- 
 ^nia ; in that year she .ceded it to the 
 General Government, and out of it were 
 carved Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, and 
 other States — the " county of Kentucky," 
 in Virgmia, having already been erected 
 into an independent commonwealth. In 
 1861 began the armed conflict between 
 the North and the South, consequent on 
 intestine differences. Virginia embarked 
 with reluctance in the struggle, finding 
 that there was no alternative but to fight 
 with or against the Gulf States. Her 
 convention passed the ordinance of se- 
 cession, April 17, 1861, which was fol- 
 lowed by the invasion of the State from 
 the northwest, the defeat of the Confed- 
 erates at Rich Mountain, and the great 
 battle of Manassas, July 21, 1861. This 
 was fought on Bull Run, near Manassas, 
 between the " Grand Army " of the United 
 States, under command of General 
 McDowell, and a Confederate force under 
 Generals Johnston and Beauregard, the 
 Federal forces suffering a severe defeat. 
 
Virginia.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Virginia. 
 
 This first important collision of tlie sec- 
 tions was followed by a four-years' war, 
 some of the bloodiest battles of which 
 took place on the soil of Virginia. The 
 main incidents of the war in Virginia, 
 which it is unnecessary here to record in 
 detail, were the advance of General 
 McClellan up the Peninsula to the Chick- 
 ahominy, where he was attacked and 
 defeated in June, 1862, by General Lee ; 
 the battles of Kemstown, McDowell, 
 Winchester, and Port Republic, by Jack- 
 son ; the defeat of General Pope at Cedar 
 Mountain, and the second Manassas; 
 Lee's adrance into Maryland, and return, 
 after Sharpsburg, into Virginia ; the vic- 
 tories of Fredericksburg and Chancellors- 
 ville, followed by the retreat of the Con- 
 federates after Gettysburg, the continu- 
 ous battles of 1864, the siege of Peters- 
 burg, and the eventual surrender of Gen- 
 eral Lee, at Appomattox Court-House, 
 April 9, 1865. The war thus began in 
 earnest and came to its termination upon 
 Virginia soil — ^the bloodiest and most im- 
 portant battles having there taken place. 
 Entering upon the war deliberately, the 
 State had adhered to the Confederate for- 
 tunes with persistent courage ; and, when 
 the struggle ended, her resources seemed 
 to be ei^austed, and the Commonwealth 
 prostrate. This has not, however, proved 
 to be the fact. Out of the shattered tim- 
 bers a new vessel has been promptly con- 
 structed, the old State flag run up, and 
 the crew have returned with good heart 
 to their posts. After some delay, and a 
 temporary occupation by Federal troops, 
 the State reentered the Union, under 
 the terms imposed by the Federal au- 
 thorities; and the people, abandoning 
 all recrimination, energetically applied 
 themselves to the work of reorganization 
 and restoration. In this they have met 
 with gratifying success ; and the result is 
 attributable, in great measure, to the 
 moderation and good sense of the Vir- 
 ginia character. The people have looked 
 the situation fairly in the face — recogniz- 
 ing the fact that the old order of things 
 based upon slavery has disappeared, and 
 that the establishment of a new fabric of 
 power and influence in the Government 
 depends upon their .own exertions. The 
 Virginians, indeed, may be said to have 
 proceeded since the war on the maxim 
 
 that the brave and persevering man is mas- 
 ter of his own fate. Instead of repining, 
 they have resolutely gone to work, without 
 distinction of class, and a. spirit of cour- 
 age and enterprise is everywhere mani- 
 fested. Mining, manufactures, and im- 
 proved systems of agriculture, are looked 
 to as the sources of future prosperity ; 
 and it is confidently expected that the 
 important lines of railway now in progress 
 of construction will pour fresh life-blood 
 into the State. The political, social, and 
 financial condition of the State is prom- 
 ising. Wise legislation is alone necessary 
 for the early payment of the entire in- 
 debtedness of the State, and the internal 
 revenue tax of the United States Govern- 
 ment, heavy as it is, has been paid with 
 as much promptness as the still heavier 
 State taxation, imposed by the free- 
 school system and for other purposes. 
 Politically and socially, Virginia has pre- 
 served an attitude since the war which 
 has extorted the respect of her enemies. 
 It was soon seen that the occupation 
 of her soil by Federal troops for the 
 preservation of order, and the enforce- 
 ment of law, was wholly unnecessary. 
 Peace, law, and order, reigned and still 
 reign throughout the State, in spite of 
 the violent disruption of the social fab- 
 ric, and the temptations to lawlessness. 
 This has arisen from the deep-seated re- 
 spect of the people for the authority of 
 the law, and the entire absence of hostile 
 feeling between the black population and 
 their former masters, who remain on 
 friendly and kindly terms with them, 
 cheerfully according to them all their 
 rights as free persons. A considerable 
 immigration from the North has taken 
 place, and the expectation, that the Vir- 
 ginians would render the residence of 
 Northeners in the State unpleasant, has 
 been shown to be wholly unfounded — 
 immigrants proving themselves honor- 
 able persons and good citizens having 
 been received with cordial hospitality. 
 That this sentiment has not been uni- 
 versal is due to the presence of the 
 small class of adventurers known as 
 "carpet-baggers," who have proved a 
 curse to the State as to every Southern 
 community infested by them. 
 
 The Virginia lines of railway in opera- 
 tion, or in process of construction, are 
 68 
 
VlBQINIA.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUB. 
 
 [Vibqinia; 
 
 elsewhere spoken of in detaiL Among 
 these, the Chesapeake & Ohio road is 
 that from which most is expected, as it 
 will not only bring into Virginia the prod- 
 uce of the Western States, but will open 
 up to market the inexhaustible mineral 
 wealth of Trans-Alieghany Virginia. With 
 the full development of these great re- 
 sources, and an improved system of agri- 
 culture, the friends of the Commonwealth 
 look for the definite inauguration of an 
 era of wealth and general prosperity. 
 
 Virginia is justly proud of the prom- 
 inent part which she has borne in the 
 history of the continent, and of the cele- 
 brated men whom she has produced. 
 Among these may be mentioned Washing- 
 ton, the leader of the armies of the Revo- 
 lution ; Jefferson, author of the Declara- 
 tion of Independence; Marshall, Chief- 
 Justice of the United States ; Presidents 
 Madison, Monroe, Harrison, Tyler, and 
 Taylor , General Winfield Scott, General 
 R. E. Lee, John Randolph, Patrick Henry, 
 Richard Henry Lee, Henry Clay, Stone- 
 wall Jackson, and other soldiers of the 
 late war, with many others. Of the in- 
 fluence exerted by these eminent states- 
 men, judges, orators, and soldiers, upon 
 the destinies of the whole country, it 
 would be difficult to exaggerate the ex- 
 tent. Washington's military genius ef- 
 fected the national independence of Amer- 
 ica ; Jefferson founded the entire Amer- 
 ican system of democracy ; Marshall estab- 
 lished the Federal theory of the Constitu- 
 tion ; and the orators, politicians, and-sol- 
 diers, Patrick Henry, Henry Clay, Taylor, 
 and others, have powerfuUy shaped the 
 history of the whole country. 
 
 That the Commonwealth, having re- 
 sumed her place in the Union, will in 
 future contribute an important quota to 
 the general prosperity of the country, 
 there is no good reason to doubt. 
 
 To these general remarks upon Vir- 
 ginia, we append a few references to the 
 topography, climate, mineral resources, 
 agricultural products, internal improve- 
 ments, manufactures, and population, of 
 the State. 
 
 Topography. — Virginia is divided into 
 the ^Eastern Shore, lying between the 
 Chesapeake and the Atlantic Ocean; 
 Tidewater, from the Chesapeake to the 
 Blue Kidge ; The VaUey, between the Blue 
 54 
 
 Ridge and the Alleghanies ; and the The 
 Trans-Alleghany, or Western Virginia, 
 reaching from the western ramparts of the 
 Valley to the Ohio and the boundaries of 
 Kentucky. The Eastern Shore is gener- 
 ally level and sandy, with few streams ; 
 but, crossing the Chesapeake, a glance at 
 the map shows that the Tidewater is 
 pierced by a large number of rivers, afford- 
 ing easy access to the interior. These 
 are the Potomac, the • Rappahannock, 
 the Mattapony, and Pamunkey, which 
 unite to form the York ; James River, of 
 which the Chickahominy is a tributary ; 
 the Nottoway, and the Dan, and Staunton, 
 forming the Roanoke. These rivers are 
 generally navigable a considerable dis- 
 tance toward the mountains, in which 
 the majority take their rise, and their 
 banks are highly picturesque. Numerous 
 wharves, composed of timber, resting upon 
 trestles, extend into the streams, for the 
 convenience of steamboats and sailing- 
 vessels, and these great avenues into the 
 heart of the country must in time form 
 the channels of an extensive commerce. 
 The Tidewater region is generally level 
 until near the mountains, where it is 
 broken into a rolling couDtry, affording 
 excellent pasturage, and highly conducive 
 to health. 
 
 Geographically, Virginia occupies a 
 central position on the seaboard of the 
 Union. It lies between 36° 30' and 40° 
 38' north latitude, and between %° 10' 
 and 83° 30' west longitude, and is very 
 irregular in its outline. It is about 425 
 miles in its greatest length from east to 
 west, and 210 in breadth, embracing an 
 area of about 61,352 square miles, or 39,- 
 265,280 acres, of which 11,437,821 were 
 improved in 1860. 
 
 With such a topography as we have 
 described, Vir^nia, as wUl readily be be- 
 lieved, abounds in grand and picturesque 
 scenery, and in objects of interest to 
 tourists. It is especially rich in mountain 
 scenery. The mountains extend across 
 the middle of the State in a southwest 
 and northeast direction, and occupy a belt 
 of from 80 to 100 miles in width. 
 
 Next to her mountain scenery, the 
 springs of the Old Dominion present 
 the greatest attractions to travellers. 
 Some of the most valuable medicinal 
 waters on the continent are found within 
 
flSOINIA.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [ViROINIA. 
 
 her borders. Among the most celebrated 
 are the White Sulphur in Fauquier, White 
 Sulphur and Blue Sulphur in Greenbrier, 
 the Alum and Hot Springs in Bath, the 
 Salt and Eed Sulphur in Monroe, and the 
 Capon and Berkeley Springs. The most 
 celebrated of these, the White Sulphur 
 Spring, in Greenbrier County, is strongly 
 impregnated with carbonic and nitrogen 
 gases, with sulphates of lime and mag- 
 nesia, and carbonate of lime. The far- 
 famed passage of the Potomac through 
 the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry is famil- 
 iar to most travellers, as is also the Nat- 
 ural Bridge, in Rockbridge County ; 
 Weyer's Care, Madison's Care, and the 
 Chimneys or Cyclopean Towers, in Au- 
 gusta County; the Natural Tunnel, in 
 Scott County ; and the Hawk's Nest, on 
 New River, in Fayette County, are all 
 noteworthy objects much frequented by 
 tourists. Full notices of the mineral 
 springs and the remarkable curiosities of 
 the mountain-region will be found in sub- 
 sequent pages. 
 
 37ie climate of Tirginia is that of the 
 temperate zone, generally speaking, and 
 (with the exception of the lower tide- 
 water, for a portion of the year) is ex- 
 tremely healthy. Chills and fevers pre- 
 vail along the banks of the eastern rivers 
 for a part of the summer. With this ex- 
 ception the State is healthy, and the 
 mountain -region is remarkable in this 
 particular. The temperature there is 
 cool and delightful during the hottest 
 seasons of summer, and the elastic and 
 bracing airs infuse health into the frame 
 and cheerfulness into the mind. 
 
 The mineral resources of Tirginia — 
 not including under this head her min- 
 eral springs, of which a detailed account 
 will be given — are comparatively unde- 
 veloped, but are said to be, toward the 
 southwestern part of the State, of in- 
 calculable value. This extensive region 
 abounds in inexhaustible mines of coal, 
 salt, plaster, marble, copper, iron, zmc, 
 lead, and other metals and minerals. The 
 absence of railways in the mountain-re- 
 gion containing these minerals has hith- 
 erto prevented the opening of mines, with 
 a few exceptions. The coal and salt 
 mines of the Kanawha region are now 
 being worked with great success, and the 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway will prob- 
 
 ably develop the mineral treasures of 
 this remarkable region. The salt-wells 
 alone, in a small area near SaltviUe, in 
 Tazewell County, are said to be sufficient 
 to supply the wants of the continent for 
 ages to come. 
 
 The value of these salines to South- 
 western Virginia and East Tennessee is 
 at all times very great ; but how greatly 
 they concern the most vital interests of 
 both these States in particular, as well as 
 those of the Carolinas and Georgia, and 
 how deserving they are of the favor and 
 fostering care of them all, can only justly 
 be estimated by adverting to the part 
 they have played in times of war. In 
 that of 1812, interrupting as it did the 
 supply of foreign salt, wagons were sent 
 to them from almost all parts of Virginia 
 — certainly from as far east as Richmond 
 and Petersburg ; and during the late civil 
 contest, both sources of competitive sup- 
 ply being cut off — that from Liverpool 
 and that from the Kanawha Valley — the 
 salt from these works was almost the 
 sole resource of the whole Confederacy 
 lying between the Mississippi and the 
 Potomac. At one period of the civil war 
 the product of them was nearly 10,000 
 bushels a day, or between 3,000,000 and 
 4,000,000 a year ; and it deserves men- 
 tion that this great draft upon the wells 
 was met by them without apparent strain 
 or material deterioration in the quality of 
 the brine. Still, the present annual sup- 
 ply, restricted by the costliness of fuel, 
 may be stated at but from 400,000 to 
 600,000 bushels. 
 
 Agriculture. — Virginia produced in 
 1860, of wheat, 13,129,180 bushels ; corn, 
 38,360,704; oats, 10,184,865; of pounds 
 of tobacco, 123,967,757 ; of wine, gallons, 
 40,508. In 1870 the production was : 
 wheat, 8,191,398 bushels; corn, 17,649,- 
 304; oats, 6,857,555; tobacco, 37,086,- 
 364 pounds. It will be borne in mind 
 that since 1860 West Virginia has been 
 separated from the State, and hence the 
 apparent diminution in crops as compared 
 with the last census. 
 
 The fine brands of chewing and smok- 
 ing tobacco are grown on the south side 
 of James River. Their quality is well 
 known. Attention has been recently di- 
 rected to vine-growing, which promises 
 to become an important source of profit. 
 65 
 
ViJtaiifiA.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUK. 
 
 [ViSGINIA. 
 
 The region along the Blue Eidge is said 
 by German vine-dressers to be identical 
 in soil and climate with the best vine- 
 growing country of Europe ; and in Albe- 
 marle, and near Front Royal, extensive 
 vineyards are already planted, and the 
 manufacture of wine carried on with suc- 
 cess. 
 
 Timber. — Virginia grows large quan- 
 tities of oak, pine, ash, maple, birch, lo- 
 cust, and other trees, suitable for building 
 and other uses. The mountain-region 
 especially abounds in forests of great 
 value, but yet untouched, from the impos- 
 sibility of reaching market, the mountain- 
 streams not permitting, from interrup- 
 tions in their channels, the floating down 
 of logs. On the seaboard considerable 
 bodies of excellent timber still remain, 
 and in numerous instances these have 
 been the source of large profit. A com- 
 pilny is at present engaged in felling the 
 juniper and cypress timber of the Dis- 
 mal Swamp, for which there is an active 
 demand in Jforthem cities ; and along the 
 Pamunkey, the Rappahannock, the Poto- 
 mac, and other rivers, enterprising capi- 
 talists from the North have purchased the 
 undrained swamp -lands, abounding in 
 fine timber, and are engaged in preparing 
 It for market. In 1860 Virginia supplied 
 sawed and planed lumber to the value of 
 §2,53'7,130. 
 
 The itUernal improvements of the State 
 do not equal those of the Northern and 
 Western States of the Union, but are 
 creditable to the energy and enterprise of 
 the Commonwealth. 
 
 The oldest of these is the James River 
 & Kanawha Canal, at present completed 
 from Richmond to Buchanan", beyond 
 Lynchburg. The importance of this 
 work, when completed to the Ohio, can 
 scarcely be exaggerated. " It is then," 
 says Mr. Pollard, in his " Virginia Tourist," 
 " that the State of Virginia will obtain 
 its fullest development — ^when the coal 
 and minerals of the State are brought 
 together; then that the hydrographic 
 basins of the Mississippi and the Missouri 
 shall be drained into the long-neglected 
 waters of the Chesapeake, and its riches 
 float into its heretofore stagnant har- 
 bors ; then that we shall behold a water- 
 route in connection with, or, rather, sup- 
 plemented by, the southwestern system 
 £6 
 
 of railroads in Virginia." Bringing in 
 connection with the Chesapeake Bay 16,- 
 000 miles of navigable rivers in the Mis- 
 sissippi Valley, and 21,000 miles of rail- 
 road already in operation there " (see 
 Prof. Maury), "bringing Norfolk 298 
 miles nearer than New York is by pres- 
 ent routes to all places on the Missis- 
 sippi River, that are situated above the 
 mouth of the Illinois River ; bringing the 
 cities on the Ohio 1,000 to 1,500 miles 
 nearer to New York, via Norfolk, than 
 they are either via the Gulf or the 
 Lakes ; giving the Northwest a water 
 route through Virginia to the seaboard, 
 shorter and more practicable than the 
 one by the Lakes and the Erie 'Janal 
 to New York, or the other by the 
 Mississippi River to New Orleans, with 
 transshipment to New York, Liverpool, 
 and other ports ; in short, making Virginia 
 the highway of the granary of America." 
 The James River & Kanawha Canal ex- 
 tends from Richmond to Buchanan, a dis- 
 tance of 14*7 miles, and cost $6,189,280. 
 The length of railways in Virginia 
 amounted in ]8'72 to 1,637 miles of track, 
 and in West Virginia at the same time there 
 were 561 miles more. The main lines are 
 the Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac, 
 the direct line from Washington south ; 
 the Chesapeake & Ohio, piercing the 
 centre of the State from Richmond to 
 the White Sulphur, and now (1873) just 
 finished ; the Richmond & Danville ; the 
 Richmond & York River; the Orange, 
 Alexandria & Manassas, from Washington 
 to Lynchburg, with the Manassas branch 
 to Harrisonburg ; the Norfolk & Peters- 
 burg, South Side, and Virginia & Tennes- 
 see, consolidated under the name of the 
 Atlantic, Mississippi & Ohio ; the Washing- 
 ton and Ohio, recently Loudon & Hamp- 
 shire ; and the Winchester, Potomac & 
 Strasburg. The Chesapeake & Ohio is 
 recently completed. The Washington & 
 Ohio is now finished beyond Leesburg ; 
 and the early construction, by the Penn- 
 sylvania Central Railway Company, of a 
 line from Hagerstown, Maryland, via 
 Front Royal and Luray, to Salem, in Roan- 
 oke County, is anticipated, which, con- 
 necting at each terminus with roads al- 
 ready in operation, will aflbrd the most 
 direct and agreeable route from New 
 York to New Orleans. It is not too 
 
ViSOINIA.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Richmond. 
 
 much to say that these great routes, by 
 developing the immense mineral resources 
 of the Commonwealth, arid affording rapid 
 access to her watering-places, will changp 
 the face of the whole country. A writer 
 in MiunVa Merchants' Magazine forecasts 
 the future in declaring that " many years 
 will not elapse before England and France 
 will annually send multitudes of invalids 
 to these unrivalled fountains ; when we 
 shall see those beautiful valleys teeming 
 with living beings from every quarter of 
 the globe." 
 
 Manufactures. — The approximate val- 
 ue of manufactures in Virginia in 1860 
 was $51,300,000. 
 
 In 1860 were manufactured agricul- 
 tural implements to the value of $339,- 
 959 ; pig, bar, and rolled iron, $1,398,- 
 598 ; steam-engines and machinery, $1,- 
 478,036 ; iron-founding, $809,995 ; leath- 
 er, $l,218,TO0 ; lumber, sawed and planed, 
 $2,537,130 ; flour and meal, $15,212,060. 
 
 Richmond has numerous and impor- 
 tant manufactories ; among them the ex- 
 tensive "City," "Haxall," and "Galle- 
 go " flour-mills, and the Tredegar Iron- 
 works, which are the most important 
 works of that description south of the 
 Potomac. Notices of these will be found 
 in the chapter on Richmond, in the pres- 
 ent volume. In the year 1870 Richmond 
 took a great— considering the circum- 
 stances, an extraordinary — stride forward 
 in her manufactures. In the year ending 
 January 1, 1871, these amounted in value 
 to $7,000,000. In the year ending Jan- 
 uary 1, 1872, they had increased to not 
 less than $15,000,000, though the most 
 sanguine friends of the city had not, it is 
 said, anticipated a greater value than 
 $9,000,000. 
 
 The tobacco -manufactories of Rich- 
 mond and Lynchburg do a large business, 
 and supply a great part of the demand, 
 for manufactured and smoking tobacco, 
 from the North and Europe. The 
 "Lynchburg" brands are well known, 
 and have probably a more extended rep- 
 utation than any others in the world. 
 
 Banks. — The official returns from the 
 national banks in Virginia, at the close 
 ofbusiness, October 2, 1871, show the cap- 
 ital stock to be $3,670,000 ; individual 
 deposits, 5,697,179 ; loans and discounts, 
 $7,066,209; specie, $74,000. The re- 
 
 sources and liabilities are each stated at 
 over $14,500,000. 
 
 PopulaMon. — The population of Vir- 
 ginia—including under that name Eastern 
 and Western Virgmia — In 1870 was, ac- 
 cording to the report of the superintend- 
 ent of the ninth census, of which, at the 
 date of writing, a synopsis only has ap- 
 peared, 1,667,177. 
 
 This was distributed between the two 
 States as follows : 
 
 Vir^ia 3,225,16S 
 
 West Virginia 442,014 
 
 Total 1,667,17T 
 
 Of this population, the white and col- 
 ored were thus distributed : 
 
 Virginia 712,089 
 
 West Virginia 424,088 
 
 1,136,122 
 Colored. 
 
 Viiginia 512,841 
 
 West Virginia....; 17,980 
 
 530.821 
 
 Indians 280 
 
 Chinese 4 
 
 Aggregate population of the two 
 States, 1,667,177. 
 
 This is a gain of 4.44 per cent, on the 
 census report of 1860, in spite of the loss 
 in the population occasioned by the war. 
 
 BICHUONS. 
 
 Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is 
 situated on the left or northern bank of 
 James River, at about 100 miles by 
 water from Chesapeake Bay. The city 
 was incorporated by act of Assembly in 
 1742, and became the capital of the State 
 in 1779. When first seen by the travel- 
 ler approaching it on the James-River 
 steamers, it has the imposing effect of a 
 large and populous capital — the lofty sit- 
 uation increasing its apparent size. To 
 this first impression the Capitol largely 
 adds, rising proudly as it does on Shockoe 
 Hill, surrounded by towering steeples. 
 The profile of the city, seen from other 
 quarters, is also attractive and imposing. 
 The ground upon which it is built is a 
 succession of hills and valleys ; and it is 
 said that the number of the former en- 
 titles it to the name of the " Seven-hilled 
 City " equally with Rome. The scenery 
 57 
 
RlCmiOND.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUK, 
 
 [BicHMons. 
 
 in the enTirons is extremely fine. James 
 River tumbles over its rocky bed, breali- 
 jng into foam on the rocks, and winding 
 around islands covered with grass and 
 foliage ; and the low grounds beyond are 
 scenes of smiling peace and beauty. 
 Richmond has always been a place of in- 
 terest as the social and political capital 
 of the State. Its society, from the Revo- 
 lution down to the present time, has been 
 remarkable for its attractions; and the 
 flower of the country population was long 
 in the habit of spending there a consider- 
 able portion of the year. The courts 
 also drew together what was said to be 
 the ablest bar in the United States — em- 
 bracing Judge Marshall, William Wirt, 
 John Wickham, Edmund Randolph, 
 Leigh, Johnson, Stannard, and many 
 others. The city was in turn the scene 
 of the Conventions of 1788, to ratify the 
 Federal Constitution, those of 1829, 1850, 
 and 1861, and other important political 
 gatherings, which largely shaped the des- 
 tinies of the Commonwealth. In 1861 still 
 greater prominence was given to it as the 
 capital of the Southern Confederacy ; and 
 one of the great aims of the Federal au- 
 thorities, throughout the war, was to re- 
 duce it into their possession. The obsti- 
 nacy with which the Confederates defend- 
 ed it was a proof of the great importance 
 which they attached to its retention. 
 To effect this, strong lines of earthworks 
 were drawn around the place ; and may 
 still be seen as memorials of the great 
 struggle. When General Lee evacuated 
 Petersburg, April 2, 1865, the troops de- 
 fending Richmond, on the east, were 
 withdrawn, and, to prevent the tobacco- 
 warehouses and public stores from fall- 
 ing into the hands of the Federal forces, 
 the buildings — ^together with the bridges 
 over James River — were fired. This re- 
 sulted in the destruction of a large part 
 of the business section of the city, ex- 
 tending from the Spottswood Hotel, on 
 Main Street, for nearly a mile toward 
 Rockett's, the lower suburb — ^the num- 
 ber of buildings destroyed having been 
 estimated at 1,000, and the loss at 
 $8,000,000. 
 
 With the termination of hostilities, 
 
 Richmond set to work to rebuild her 
 
 blackened quarters, which she has now 
 
 (1873) almost wholly effected • and the 
 
 68 
 
 city is rapidly recovering its former 
 prosperity. Trade has revived ; and 
 the extensive City, Haxall, and Gallego 
 flouring-miUs, and the Tredegar Iron- 
 works, are again in full operation. These 
 mills will repay a visit. The Gallego 
 mills are said to be the largest in the 
 world, and supply a large part of the 
 South American demand for flour. The 
 article manufactured here is stated to be 
 the only brand which is capable of re- 
 sisting the heat of the tropics. The 
 Tredegar Iron -works, situated on the 
 river above the armory, are of the first 
 class, and, during the civil war, supplied 
 the Confederacy with a large part of their 
 cannon and ordnance-stores. They have 
 now returned to their original work, the 
 manufacture of locomotives and rolling- 
 stock for railroads, and employ 1,300 
 hands. The statement is made that they 
 could employ one-third more, in the exe- 
 cution of orders now in hand, did their 
 facilities permit ; and the company has 
 just advertised for materials to construct 
 a mammoth addition to their present rail- 
 way-car construction-shop. 
 
 The total population of Richmond, ac- 
 cording to the recent census returns, is 
 61,038. Total number of white males, 13,- 
 428; whitefemales, 14,500; coloredmales, 
 10,209 ; colored females, 12,901 ; excess 
 of white female population, 1,072 ; excess 
 of colored females, 1,682 ; total excessive 
 female population, 2,754. Number of 
 males twenty-one years of age and up- 
 ward, 12,786 ; number of males of foreign 
 birth, 1,961 ; number in the city who can- 
 not read, 14,629 ; cannot write, 16,500 ; 
 number of dwellings, 8,007 ; number of 
 famihes, 9,792 ; value of real estate, $17,- 
 432,182 ; value of personal property, 
 $7,388,980; value of foreign goods im- 
 ported in the year ending June 30, 1871, 
 $97,662. 
 
 OHTJEaHES. 
 
 The churches of Richmond are numer- 
 ous, and many of them are handsome 
 specimens, of architecture. Those with 
 historic associations, and thus apt to first 
 attract the attention of the traveller, are 
 St. John's and the Monumental. St. 
 John's is ante-Revolutionary in origin, 
 and is a plain edifice with a modem spire, 
 rising &om Church Hill, the most eastern 
 
BlCHMONO.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [BlOHMOND. 
 
 of the numerous eminences on which 
 Bichmond is built. Here was held, in 
 1^75, the Virginia Convention to decide 
 the action of the colony, on which occa- 
 sion Patrick Henry exclaimed : " The war 
 is ineritable, and let it come ! Is life so 
 dear or peace so sweet as to be pur- 
 chased at the price of chains and slavery ? 
 Forbid it, Almighty God ! I know not 
 what course others may take, but, as for 
 me, give me liberty or give me death ! " 
 St. John's Church was subsequently, in 
 1T88, the scene of the meeting of the 
 convention, presided over by Edmund 
 Pendleton, to determine whether Vir- 
 ginia would ratify the Federal Constitu- 
 tion. The spot is thus filled with his- 
 toric associations — with the recollections 
 of great men and great events. The 
 Monumental Church, on Broad Street, is 
 a handsome edifice with a dome, standing 
 on the spot formerly occupied by the 
 Richmond Theatre. In 1811, during the 
 performance of a piece entitled " The 
 Bleeding Nun," the stage-curtain caught 
 fire, the flames extended to the bmlding, 
 and, in the terror and confusion of the 
 crowd rushing hurriedly to the doors, 
 sixty-nine persons, embracing the Gov- 
 ernor of Virginia, and some of the most 
 Eminent men and beautiful women of the 
 State, were crushed or burned to death. 
 The MonwmemUd (Episcopal) Church was 
 erected as a memorial of the event, the 
 remains of the sufferers being interred 
 beneath a mural tablet in the vestibule. 
 There are numerous other churches, of 
 more modern origin, and more pretension 
 in point of architecture, of which St. 
 Pali's, near the Capitol Square, may per- 
 haps be regarded as the most imposing. 
 A full list of places of worship, etc., is 
 appended : 
 
 First Baptist Church, Broad and 12th 
 Streets; Second Baptist, Main and 6th 
 Streets; Grace-Street Baptist, Grace and 
 1st Streets ; Leigh-Street Baptist ; and Bel- 
 videre Baptist (there are three colored Bap- 
 tist churches) ; Trinity Methodist, Broad 
 and 20th Streets ; Broad-Street Method- 
 ist, Broad and 10th ; Centenary Method- 
 ist, Grace and 5th; Union Station, 
 Union Hill and 2'?th Street; Sidney 
 Methodist, Oregon -Hill Methodist, and 
 Clay-Street M. E. (there are two colored 
 Methodist Churches); First Presbyterian 
 
 Church, corner 10th and Capitol Streets i 
 Second Presbyterian, 5th and Main; 
 United, comer Grace and 4th and Third, 
 Church Hill, Broad and 25th ; St. Paul's 
 Church (Episcopal), Grace and 9th ; Monu- 
 mental, Broad and 13th ; St. James, 5th 
 and Marshall; St. Mark's, 4th Street, be- 
 tween Clay and Leigh ; Grace Church, Main 
 and Foushu ; St. John's, Church Hill ; 
 Catholic (St. Peter's), corner Grace and 
 8th; Catholic, Church Hill and 25th 
 Street (St. Patrick's); St. Mary's, Mar- 
 shall and 4th Street; Bethlehem's Lu- 
 theran, 6th, between Clay and Leigh ; 
 Lutheran Church, Mayo Street; Syca- 
 more Disciples' Church, Grace and Yth ; 
 St. Joseph's Catholic Asylum ; Academy 
 of Visitation, Church Hill ; St. Francis 
 de Sales's Asylum. 
 
 The membership of the denominations 
 most numerously attended was, on Jan- 
 uary 1, 1872, as follows: Episcopal, 
 1,263 ; Presbyterian, 1,234 ; Baptist, 
 2,61'7 ; Methodist, 1,940. The exclusively 
 African churches, of the Baptist denom- 
 ination chiefly, are not estimated in this 
 list. The attendance on these is large — 
 the churches referred to being seven in 
 number. 
 
 HOTELS, EE8TAUBANTS, AND OLTJBS. 
 
 The leading hotels of Eichmond are the 
 Exchange Hotel and Ballard House, facing 
 and connected with each other on Frank- 
 lin Street, below the Capitol, and Ford^s 
 on Broad, and the American, on Main 
 Street. The Richmond Club House is on 
 Franklin Street. Among desirable res- 
 taurants for ladies and gentlemen are 
 Gerat's, Zelelle's, and Cook's, Ladies' and 
 GenUemen's Dining-Booms. 
 
 PLACES OF AMtrSBMENT. 
 
 The old Richmond Theatre, on Broad 
 Street, built in consequence of the de- 
 struction by fire of the former theatre, on 
 the present site of the Monumental 
 Church, is a handsome and convenient 
 building, with ample means of egress in 
 case of fire, and a favorite with the in- 
 habitants and visitors. Other well-con- 
 ducted places of amusement are the Vir- 
 ginia Hall, the Assembly HaU, and Metro- 
 politan Hall. These may all be visited 
 by ladies with propriety. 
 
 69 
 
Richmond.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [RiCBSfOND, 
 
 OOjrVKTAWOBS. 
 
 Richmond was tardy in establishing 
 a system of public conveyances to various 
 parts of the city, but is now fairly sup- 
 plied. Street-cars run from end to end 
 of the city by the main thoroughfares, 
 and Garher's omnibuses and hacks are 
 reliable as vehicles, and to convey bag- 
 gage to and from the various depots. 
 
 PUBLIC AND PEOMINENT UmLDINQS, 
 BTO. 
 
 The most prominent public building of 
 Richmond, and that which first attracts 
 the attention of visitors, whether ap- 
 proaching by way of James River or by 
 the railroads, is the State Capitol, standing 
 on the brow of what is known as Shockoe 
 HilL From its size and elevated location, 
 it is by far the most conspicuous object 
 in the city. It is a Grseco-composite 
 Duilding, adorned with a portico of Ionic 
 columns, the plan having been furnished 
 by Thomas Jefferson after that of the 
 Maison-carrSe, at Nismes, in France. 
 There are windows on all sides, and doors 
 on the two longer sides, which are reached 
 by flights of steps, under which are 
 other doors leading to the basement. 
 The view from the portico is extensive 
 and beautiful, taking in the James River, 
 with its windings and numerous islands. 
 It stands in the centre of a public square 
 of about eight acres. Entering by one of 
 the upper doors, an entry leads to a 
 square hall in the centre of the building, 
 surmounted by a dome which transmits 
 light from above. The hall is about forty 
 feet square, and about twenty-five above 
 the floor. In one of the niches in the 
 wall is a marble bust of Lafayette. In 
 the centre of the square haU above de- 
 scribed there is a marble statue of George 
 Washington, on which is the following 
 inscription : " JPhit par Hoitdon, Gitoyen 
 Fran^ais, 1788." The statue is mounted 
 on a rectangular pedestal, four and a 
 half feet high, on one of the larger sides 
 of which is the following honest and af- 
 fectionate inscription : 
 
 " The General Assembly of the Com- 
 monwealth of Virginia have caused this 
 statue to be erected, as a monument of 
 affection and gratitude to 
 
 GEOKGE WASniNGTON, 
 60 
 
 who, uniting to the endowments of the 
 Hero the virtues of the Patriot, and ex- 
 erting both in establishing the Liberties 
 of his Country, has rendered his name 
 dear to his Fellow-Citizens, and given the 
 World an immortal example of true 
 Glory. Done in the year of 
 
 CHRIST 
 
 One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eigh- 
 ty-eight, and in the year of the Common- 
 wealth the Twelfth." 
 
 The simplicity, dignity, and truth of 
 this inscription are worthy of the great 
 original commemorated, and of the young 
 and chivalrio State whose ready gratitude 
 so early erected this lasting monument, 
 and overflowed in language so beautiful 
 and appropriate. The statue is clad in 
 the uniform worn by an American gen- 
 eral during the Revolution. It is of the 
 size of life, and stands resting on the 
 right foot, having the left somewhat ad- 
 vanced, with the knee bent. The left 
 hand rests onabundleof fasces, on which 
 hang a military cloak and a ^all-sword, 
 and against which leans a plough. The 
 attitude is natural and easy, and the 
 likeness to the great original is strong. 
 
 Near the statue of Washington, in one 
 corner of the hall, stands an object of 
 antiquarian interest, which may fairly be 
 included among the curiosities of the 
 Capitol. This is an antique English 
 slmie, covered with ornamental castings 
 and inscriptions, which dates back far 
 beyond the Revolution, and was used to 
 warm the old Virginia House of Burgesses 
 at Williamsburg in colonial times. This 
 venerable landmark of far-away times 
 still holds its place in the hall, and is the 
 centre, during the sessions of the Legisla- 
 ture, of discussion and gossip, as it no 
 doubt was more than one hundred years 
 ago. 
 
 The eguestrian statue of Washington, 
 by Crawford, stands on the esplanade 
 leading from the Governor's house toward 
 the western gate of the Capitol Square, 
 and near the latter. This consists of a 
 bronze horse and rider, of gigantic size, 
 rising from a pedestal of granite, and sur- 
 rounded by bronze figures of Patrick 
 Henry, Thomas Jefferson, John Marshall, 
 George Mason, Thomas Nelson, and An- 
 drew Lewis. The horse upon which the 
 
BiCHMOND.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Richmond, 
 
 Father of his Country is mounted is half 
 thrown upon his haunches, and has been 
 declared to be one of the finest bronzes 
 in the world. Crawford is said to have 
 studied for this charger in the stud of the 
 Pope at Rome ; and the late G. P. R. 
 James, Esq., formerly in the British cav- 
 alry, made the remark that such a horse 
 was " worth not less than 83,000." The 
 figure of Washington is commanding — 
 the left hand grasping the reins — the hat 
 on the head, which is turned over the left 
 shoulder, and with the right hand point- 
 ing to the front. The statues grouped 
 around the pedestal are remarkable spe- 
 cimens of the sculptor's genius. Henry 
 has his arms raised in impassioned ora- 
 tory; Jefferson, wrapped in his cloak, 
 holds the pen ; and the rest are imposing, 
 the bold form of General Andrew Lewis, 
 in hunting-shirt, being the most striking. 
 On the lower pediments are emblazoned 
 mihtary and civic decorations in bronze ; 
 and the monument, taken altogether, is 
 perhaps the most beautiful on the conti- 
 nent. A marble statue of Henry Clay, of 
 life-size, completes the decorations of the 
 Capitol Square, which is a favorite place 
 of resort for the citizens and strangers ; 
 and the art-loving tourist should not fail 
 to visit the beautiful studio of Edward 
 Valentine, the eminent sculptor. 
 
 Other prominent buildings of Richmond 
 are, the Oil)/ Hall, the place of session of 
 the municipal courts, standing on the 
 northern side of the Capitol Square, just 
 without its limits ; the Governor's house, 
 a plain building on the northeastern comer 
 of the square ; the Oustom-Sovse, a hand- 
 some granite edifice on Main Street, be- 
 tween 10th and 11th, in the upper portion 
 of which the U. S. Court holds its sessions, 
 while the basement is occupied by the 
 city Post-Office ; the Penitentiary, a large 
 brick building, surrounded by a wall, and 
 situated in the western suburbs of the 
 city ; and the Medical College, in rear of 
 the Monumental Church, a handsome 
 specimen of the Egyptian style of archi- 
 tecture, and a thriving institution. In 
 the vicinity of the college are, the " Afri- 
 can Church," a long, low building, famous 
 as a place of political meetings before and 
 during the war ; and the Brockenbrough 
 House, which was the residence of Jeffer- 
 son Davis, President of the Southern 
 
 Confederacy. Other prominent buildings 
 are the Ubby and CaMle Thunder Pris- 
 ons ; but these are mere warehouses, of 
 no interest apart from the associations 
 connected with them. 
 
 We conclude this brief list of the public 
 buildings with a notice of the State Ar- 
 mory, situated below Gamble's Hill, near 
 the Tredegar Iron -works. This is an 
 edifice of considerable size, built around 
 three sides of a square or inner court, 
 large enough to admit of the drilling of 
 one or two hundred men. The buildmg 
 was, long before the war, the arsenal of 
 the State arms, cannon, and muskets, and 
 the residence of the State Guard — a body 
 of uniformed and paid soldiers, employed 
 by the State to guard the Capitol and 
 other public buildings, and preserve law 
 and order in case of any infraction of them. 
 
 The appearance of this Guard, musket 
 on shoulder, in front of the Capitol, is 
 said to have forcibly impressed foreigners 
 as the only reminder of that description, 
 in republican America, of monarchic 
 Europe. The Armory had from an early 
 period in its inner court some pieces of 
 ordnance of French origin, whose history 
 was not distinctly ascertained. They 
 were bronze pieces, with the richest 
 carving, and dated back to the age of 
 Louis XIV, 
 
 OEMETEBIES. 
 
 Sollywood is the chief cemetery of the 
 city, the former cemetery, in the north- 
 western suburbs, near the " PoorHouse," 
 having been partially or wholly discon- 
 tinued. Hollywood is a spot of great 
 natural beauty, on the western limits of 
 the city, above James River, and em- 
 braces an extensive tract, alternately hill 
 and dale, the whole ornamented with 
 lofty trees. On the hill at the southern 
 extremity a monument marks the resting- 
 place of President Monroe, whose remains 
 were removed hither from New York some 
 years before the war. Other persons of 
 note are here buried, among them General 
 J. E. B. Stuart, commander of General 
 Lee's cavalry. The cemetery is within 
 sight of the Falls of James River, inter- 
 spersed with green islands ; and the 
 murmur of the waters mounts to the lofty 
 hill, attuning the mind of the visitor in 
 unison with the spot. 
 
 61 
 
Ohaelestown.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Manassas. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 BALTIMORE TO STBASBVBO. 
 Via BaiUmore i& OMo and Wwioheat&r^ Poto- 
 
 Baltimokk & Ohio Eailwat. — Sta- 
 noNS : — ^Baltimore to Washington Junc- 
 tion (connects with Washington Branch 
 Kailway), 9 miles ; Ellicott's Mills, IB ; 
 Elysville, 20; MarriottsviUe, 27; Sykes- 
 TiUe, 31; Mount Airy, 42 ; Monrovia, BO; 
 Frederick Junction, B8 ; Point of Kocks, 
 69 ; Hagerstown Junction (connects with 
 Washington County Division), 79 ; Sandy 
 Hook, 80 ; Harper's Ferry (connects with 
 Winchester, Potomac & Strasburg Divis- 
 ion), 81. 
 
 WiNCHBSTEB, PoTOMAC & StRASBUBQ 
 
 DrvisiON. — Stations : — Harper's Ferry to 
 Halltown, 6 miles ; Oharlestown, 10 ; 
 Cameron, 14; Summit Point, 18; Wades- 
 viUe, 23; Stephenson's, 28; Winchester, 
 32 ; Bartonville, 38 ; Vaucluse, 42 ; Mid- 
 dletown, 44 ; Strasburg, 51 miles from 
 Harper's Ferry, and 132 miles from Bal- 
 timore. 
 
 The road from Baltimore to Harper's 
 Ferry is fully described in Route I. 
 (Maryland). 
 
 Ciisarlcato'wia., the capital of Jef- 
 ferson County, is a thriving place, situated 
 in the midst of the richest wheat-land of 
 the State, Jefifersou bearing oif the palm 
 in this respect from Clarke and other fer- 
 tile wheat-raising counties. The town 
 is of considerable antiquity, and received 
 its name from Colonel Charles Washing- 
 ton, brother of General Washington — 
 the family still possessing valuable estates 
 in the neighborhood. Braddock is sup- 
 posed to have passed here on his ill-fated 
 expedition in 1755. The town has Pres- 
 byterian, Episcopal, and Methodist church- 
 es of handsome architecture, and a bank. 
 The place is chiefly noted as the scene of 
 the trial and execution of John Brown, in 
 1859, consequent upon the attack by him 
 and his conspirators upon the Government 
 arsenal in Harper's Ferry. Brown was 
 confined in the jail, on Main Street, and 
 tried in the court-house, both of which 
 buildings were destroyed during the war. 
 He was executed in a field east of the 
 town. There are some objects of inter- 
 est in the vicinity, among which are the 
 
 ruina of Nbrhorne Clmrch, an ancient 
 edifice, standing in the midst of green 
 fields, about one mile west of the place ; 
 and Washington's Oave, a small grotto, on 
 the estate of John Selden, Esq., about 
 three miles south of the town. You en- 
 ter this cave by a narrow opening, and 
 find yourself at some distance from the 
 entrance in a chamber, which tradition 
 asserts to have been the scene of Mason- 
 ic meetings, over whichWashington pre- 
 sided. 
 
 gmumit Point. — ^From this sta- 
 tion a line of stages runs to BerryvUle and 
 Millwood in Clarke County, daily, supply- 
 ing those places with a daily mail. 
 
 Jordan. Spring. — {See " Springs 
 Region," page 90.) 
 
 ■W^incliester, the county seat of 
 Frederick, is fully described in Route UI. 
 
 @tr aslbiirg; is described in Routs II. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 wAsmiraTON to barbisonbvbq. 
 
 Via Oroffhge^ Al&cantZria t& ManoBaas BaU- 
 loay^ cmd Mcmassas Branch oftha same. 
 
 Stations : — Washington to Alexandria, 
 7 miles ; Manassas, 34 ; Broad Run, 49 ; 
 Salem, 58 ; Markam, 72 ; Front Royal, 85 ; 
 Strasburg, (connects with Winchester, 
 Potomac & Strasburg Division of. Balti- 
 more & Ohio Railway), 95; Woo<5stock, 
 108; Mount Jackson, 119; Timberyille, 
 130; Harrisonburg, 146. 
 
 W asliington. {See page 28.) 
 
 Alexandria (7 miles). {See page 
 65.) 
 
 IWanassas (34 miles) is a station 
 on the Orange, A.lexandria & Lynchburg 
 Railway, where it forms a junction with 
 the Manassas Gap, running from this 
 point on the same track to Alexandria. 
 
 Manassas was the scene of the first 
 great battle of the civil war, having 
 been selected by the Confederates as 
 important to defend, from the junction 
 hei* of two lines of railway penetrating 
 to Piedmont, Virginia, and the VaUey. It 
 was held by General Beauregard, whose 
 forces were disposed along the south 
 bank of Bull Run, a stream flowing around 
 Manassas, in an easterly direction. At the 
 distance of three or four miles, Beaure- 
 gard was attacked by the " Grand Army 
 
-.NiSSAS.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Fkont Royal. 
 
 of the United States," commanded by Glen- 
 eral Irwin McDowell, July 18, 1861. Thia 
 attack was repulsed, and General Mc- 
 Dowell moved secretly up the stream, 
 crossed at Sudley Ford beyond the Con- 
 federate left, and July 21st fell with 
 great fury on that wing, which he com- 
 pletely routed. General Joseph E. John- 
 ston, who had arrived with reeuforoements 
 from the Valley, and assumed command, 
 hastened to send troops to the scene of 
 attack, under the command of General 
 Bee. These were also repulsed, and Bee 
 was retreating, when he saw General 
 Jackson advancing to his assistance with 
 his brigade. Bee rode up to Jackson 
 and exclaimed, " General, they are beat- 
 ing us back I " Jackson replied, " Sir, we 
 will give them the bayonet." Bee then 
 galloped back to his disordered forces 
 and cried : " Look ! there is Jackson stand- 
 ing like a stone wall / Let us determine to 
 die here, and we will conquer ! " Jackson 
 received the attack, and, assisted by Colo- 
 nel Wade Hampton, held his ground 
 until reenforcements arrived, when the 
 Federal forces were driven back. The 
 day was finally decided by the appearance 
 of reenforcements under Kirby Smith and 
 Early on the Confederate left, when the 
 Federal forces gave way and retreated in 
 confusion toward Washington, pursued 
 by the Confederate cavalry. 
 
 The battle-ground of the " first Manas- 
 sas " is three or four miles from the sta- 
 tion, and intersected by the Sudley, 
 BrentsviUe & Warrenton Turnpike, which 
 crosses at Stone Bridge. The ground is 
 rolling, and clothed here and there with 
 small fime-trees. " The Henry House 
 Hill " near the well-known " Stone House," 
 now destroyed, and overlooking Stone 
 Bridge, was the scene of the hardest 
 struggle — ^the high ground at this point 
 being the key of the position. The local- 
 ity is cheerless, and with little to afford 
 interest, save its melancholy historic as- 
 sociations. 
 
 The " second battle of Manassas " was 
 fought upon nearly the same ground, 
 August 29 and 30, 1862. General Mc- 
 CleUan's defeat on the Chickahominy was 
 followed by another advance of the Fed- 
 eral forces from Alexandria to Culpep- 
 per, which was met at Cedar Mountain by 
 Jackson and checked. General Lee then 
 
 advanced into Culpepper (the Federal 
 army retiring), and sent Jackson to fall by 
 a rapid flank march on Manassas in rear. 
 This was done, and Manassas, General 
 Pope's magazine of supplies, was de- 
 stroyed. General Lee followed Jackson 
 with Longs treet's corps, formed a junction 
 with his lieutenant near the small village 
 of Groveton, on the Warrenton turnpike, 
 and an obstinate conflict ensued, lasting 
 two days, and resulting in the defeat 
 and retreat of General Pope, Lee ad- 
 advancing in consequence into Maryland. 
 The battle-ground of the " second Manas- 
 sas " is, as was said, nearly identical with 
 the first, with, however, a change of sides 
 by the combatants — ^the Confederates 
 standing in the second battle with their 
 backs to Sudley Ford, generally speaking, 
 as the Federal forces had done at the first 
 Manassas. The loeaUties here mentioned 
 are a few miles from the railway, and ac- 
 cessible only by private conveyance. 
 
 Proceeding from Manassas toward the 
 mountains, the tourist passes through 
 the region known during the war as 
 " Mosby's Confederacy," and the scene 
 of continuous partisan warfare during 
 the years 1862-65;. the Confederates 
 commanded by Colonel John S. Mosby. 
 Markham, at the foot of the Blue Ridge, 
 was the residence of Captain Richard 
 and General Turner Ashby. Just beyond 
 Markham, the railway passes the Blue 
 Ridge through Manassas Gap, to 
 
 l<'i-oiit Soyal (SS miles), the cap- 
 ital of Warren County. This is a pleas- 
 ant post-village, situated in a valley be- 
 tween the river Shenandoah and the Blue 
 Ridge. It has excellent water-power, 
 and large flouring-mills have recently boen 
 established. Near the town, Mr. Marcus 
 Buck has extensive vineyards of the Ives 
 and other grapes, from which he manu- 
 factures large quantities of wine and 
 brandy, having a high reputation. Mr. 
 Buck is said to have 100 acres in vines, 
 and to have met with large success in his 
 enterprise. Front Royal was the scene 
 of numerous actions during the war. In 
 May, 1862, Jackson flanked General 
 Banks, then at Strasburg, by marching 
 through the Luray Valley to Front Royal, 
 where the Confederate "First Maryland 
 regiment " met the Federal " First Mary. 
 land" and drove them from the town, 
 63 
 
SlBASBUBQ.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Alexandkia. 
 
 whicli was subsequently captured by 
 General McDowell's forces advancing 
 from Fredericksburg to cut off Jackson's 
 retreat. 
 
 Straiibitrs (95 miles) is a thriving 
 post-village, on the North Pork of the 
 Shenandoah, and connects with the Win- 
 chester, Potomac & Strasburg Branch of 
 the Baltimore & Ohio Railway. This was 
 the point where, in May, 1862, the Ped- 
 eral forces, advancing from the east and 
 from the west under McDowell and Fre- 
 mont, sought to form ajunction and cap- 
 ture Jackson, who had pursued General 
 Banks toward the Potomac. Jackson 
 made a narrow escape, being delayed by 
 the non-arrival of his rear force — the 
 Stonewall Brigade. It came in right at 
 at the moment when 'the two Federal 
 columns were closing in upon him, and 
 Jackson had barely time to retire from 
 Strasburg toward the upper valley. The 
 scenery in the vicinity of Strasburg is 
 striking and picturesque. The Massi- 
 nutton Mountains here enclose a valley 
 between their shaggy ranges, with a narrow 
 outlet — ^the towering battlements sinking 
 abruptly near Strasburg into the plain. 
 From the summit of the western moun- 
 tain a fine prospect may be obtained. 
 Near this place, in the fall of 1864, oc- 
 curred an engagement between the Con- 
 federates under General Early and the 
 Federal forces under General Sheridan, in 
 which the Confederates achieved at first 
 a great success, but were ultimately de- 
 feated and driven up the Valley. At 
 Fisher's Hill, beyond, occurred an affair 
 between the same commanders, in which 
 the Confederates were defeated, and re- 
 treated up the Valley. 
 
 "Woodstoclk (108 miles), capital 
 of Shenandoah County, lies in the centre 
 of a fertile and charmingly diversified 
 country. 
 
 Bloniit Jackson (119 miles) is 
 a thriving village, having good water- 
 power from Mill Creek. 
 
 ffiarrisoiibiirg (146 miles) is a 
 pretty town in Rockingham County, of 
 which it is the capital. It is surrounded 
 by fertile farming-lands. 
 
 This line of railway, after passing Stras- 
 burg, extends through a portion of the 
 State remarkable for its fertility, the sa- 
 lubritv of the climate, and the thrift and 
 64 
 
 energy of the inhabitants. The whole 
 country was fought over, backward and 
 forward, during the years 1862, '68, and 
 '64, and was the scene probably of more 
 engagements, large and small, than any 
 other part of the Southern Confederacy. 
 It was especially rendered notable and 
 interesting in an historic point of view by 
 the celebrated " Valley Campaign " of 
 Stonewall Jackson in the spring and sum- 
 mer of 1862, when, after conducting the 
 important movements here to a success- 
 ful issue at the battle of Port Republic, 
 June 9, 1862, he reenforced Lee at Rich- 
 mond, and bore an important part in the 
 battles on the Chickahominy resulting in 
 the termination of General McClellan's 
 advance on the capital. 
 
 nOUTE III. 
 
 ALEXASDBIA, VA., TO WIJf^OMESTEJi, 
 rA., VIA WASmNQTON & OHIO 
 BAJZWAT. 
 
 Alexandria to Falls Church, 11 miles ; 
 Thorhton, 21 ; Farmwell, 31 ; Leesburg, 
 38 ; Hamilton (connects with stages for 
 Winchester), 44. 
 
 Alexandria connects with the 
 Alexandria & Washington and Orange, 
 Alexandria & Manassas Jtailways, and 
 with the recently-finished Alexandria & 
 Frederichshurg Railroad to Quantico. It 
 was once within the District of Columbia, 
 but was retroceded to Virginia in 1846, 
 with all the territory of that State which 
 had before been a portion of the national 
 ground. Its foundation dates from 1748. 
 General Braddock's disastrous expedition 
 to the West was fitted out here. The 
 town is intimately connected with the life 
 and name of Washington. In Chriii 
 Church, the pew in which he sat is an ob- 
 ject of much interest. Many mementoes 
 of him are carefiilly preserved. The 
 Museum, Court-House, Odd-Fellows' Hall, 
 and Theological Seminary, are among the 
 prominent buildings. The town, like all 
 others in Virginia, suffered much, during 
 the war, from the hands of the soldiery. 
 It was occupied by Ellsworth's Zouave 
 regiment and a Michigan regiment on the 
 morning of the 24th May, 1861, and con- 
 tinued in the possession of the Federal 
 troops. In the entrance to the Marshall 
 
LsssBtma.] 
 
 VIRGINU. 
 
 [Winchester. 
 
 House Colonel Ellsworth was shot by 
 Jackson, the proprietor of the house, for 
 tearing down the secession flag. Jackson 
 wag in turn shot by F. E. Brownell, one 
 of Ellsworth's command. 
 
 Alexandria was seized by the Federal 
 troops, May 24, 1861. Arlington Heights, 
 which are directly opposite the capital, 
 were taken on the same day. This pro- 
 tected Washington from any immediate 
 danger of attack. At Alexandria there 
 were founderies, ship-yards, machine- 
 shops, 2,000 cannon, 250,000 pounds of 
 gunpowder, great quantities of shot and 
 shell, and twelve ships-of-war. The lat- 
 ter were scuttled or fired, but vast stores, 
 which were of inestimable value at the 
 beginning of the war, fell into the hands 
 of the Confederates. 
 
 The Washington & Ohio Railway (or 
 "Loudon & Hampshire," as it was origi- 
 nally styled) passes through the county 
 of Fairfax, the scene of the first conflicts 
 on Virginia soil, in the late war, and the 
 large and fertile county of Loudon, noted 
 for its rich crops of wheat and corn, and 
 the thrift of the people, a considerable 
 portion of whom are Quakers. 
 
 lieeslinrg (38 miles), the county- 
 seat, is a thriving place, with Episcopal, 
 Methodist, and Presbyterian churches, a 
 bank, and handsome court-house. Near 
 the town is Ball's Blufi*, on the Potomac, 
 where, in October, 1861, an obstinate en- 
 gagement took place between the Con- 
 federates under Colonel Evans, and the 
 Federal forces under General Stone, in 
 which the latter suffered a severe defeat, 
 large numbers having been drowned in 
 recrossing the river. The railway extends 
 at present to Hamilton, six mUes from 
 Leesburg, where a line of stages connects 
 with BerryviUe and Winchester. Work on 
 the road is now in progress beyond Ham- 
 ilton, and it is proposed to eventually tun- 
 nel the mountain, the friends of the road 
 anticipating important results from its con- 
 nection with the coal-mines of the trans- 
 Alleghany and the commerce of the West. 
 
 Berryr-ille, the county-seat of 
 Clarke (18 miles from Hamilton), is a 
 prosperous village with Presbyterian and 
 Episcopal churches, the latter, a hand- 
 some edifice with a tower. This place 
 was the scene of many pugilistic encoun- 
 ters between General Daniel Morgan and 
 
 others, and thence is " derived the name of 
 Battletown." It was frequently occupied 
 by Confederate and Federal troops during 
 the war. The Washington & Ohio and 
 Shenandoah Talley JRailways are expected 
 to run through or near the town ; at pres- 
 ent it is connected with the Baltimore & 
 Ohio Railway by lines of stages to Win- 
 chester and Summit Point. From Berry- 
 viUe to Winchester the distance is 11 miles. 
 About half a mile north of the town is a 
 wooden building called " Soldier's Rest," 
 said to have been occupied by Washington 
 when at the age of sixteen he surveyed the 
 region for Lord Fairfax. About three 
 mUes south of the place stands the " Old 
 Chapel," a stone church, belonging to the 
 Episcopalian denomination, and of con- 
 siderable antiquity. Bishop Meade is 
 said to have preached his first sermon 
 here, and worship is still conducted at 
 stated periods in the building, to which is 
 attached a highly-picturesque graveyard, 
 the resting-place of many generations of 
 its old parishioners. The county of 
 Clarke has within its limits other objects 
 of historic interest — among them, a few 
 miles south of BerryviUe, " Saratoga," 
 the former residence of General Morgan, 
 who built the house with the aid of Hes- 
 sian prisoners taken at Saratoga ; and 
 the remains of " Greeuway Court," once 
 the abode of Thomas Lord Fairfax, who 
 owned the whole region north of the Rap- 
 pahannock, and engaged Washington, then 
 a boy, to survey it. 
 
 Wiiicliester, the county-seat of 
 Frederick, is a highly prosperous city, 
 and has been, from the time of the first 
 settlement of the VaUey, an important 
 centre of trade for this region. It has 
 numerous churches, educational institu- 
 tions, two banks, is weU and compactly 
 built, and is the depot of trade for the 
 fertUe and thriving country in which it 
 stands. It was, in 1166, the headquarters 
 of Washington, who commanded against 
 the French and Indians, and the remains 
 of Fort Loudon, built by him at the north- 
 em end of Loudon Street, may stiU be 
 seen. Lord Fairfax and General Morgan 
 both died and were buried here. Win- 
 chester was formerly one of the places 
 of session of the old Court of Chancery, 
 and the bar was and remains noted for 
 its high tone and ability. In the vicinity, 
 65 
 
■Winchester.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [■Winchester. 
 
 the Shenandoah Valley Agricultural So- 
 ciety holds its yearly meetings ; the hand- 
 somely-enclosed grounds of the society 
 being about half a mile north of the 
 place. The fairs are numerously attend- 
 ed, and the exhibitions of stock at the 
 last meeting were of a character to excite 
 the utmost interest in the crowds filling 
 the extensive grounds. 
 
 Winchester was the terminus of the 
 first railway constructed in the State of 
 ■Virginia — the Winchester & Potomac, 
 connecting with the Baltimore & Ohio at 
 Harper's Ferry. This road, since the 
 war, has passed into the hands of the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway Company, who 
 have recently extended the line to Stras- 
 burg, 18 miles farther up the Valley, 
 where it connects with the Manassas- 
 Gap road, thus affording a continuous 
 line of railway travel from Baltimore to 
 Harrisonburg, in the upper Valley, via 
 Harper's Ferry. Winchester and the 
 vicinity were the scenes of numerous 
 conflicts and important military move- 
 ments during the late war. At Kerns- 
 town, a few miles south of the place, 
 Jackson attacked, in March, 1862, a 
 Federal force under General Shields, and 
 Buffered a severe defeat. In May of the 
 same year, Jackson attacked General 
 Banks, who had retired to Winchester 
 from Strasburg, and defeated him, forcing 
 him to retreat through the place to the 
 Potomac. In June, 1863, General Ewell 
 attacked General Milroy, holding, with a 
 much smaller force, a defence in the sub- 
 urbs of the town, called the " Star Fort," 
 and drove the Federal forces from the 
 place beyond the Potomac. In Septem- 
 ber, 1864, General Sheridan attacked a 
 much smaller force of Confederates under 
 General Early on the Opequon, northeast 
 of the town, and drove them with heavy 
 loss through Winchester toward Stras- 
 burg. In addition to these main engage- 
 ments, Winchester and the vicinity wit- 
 nessed almost innumerable conflicts be- 
 tween the adversaries ; and the place is 
 said to have been occupied by the Con- 
 federates and Federals, in turn, nearly 
 one hundred times. Since the war, the 
 trade of the place has taken a rapid 
 stride, and Winchester is probably as 
 prosperous, active, and thriving, as any 
 other city in Virginia. I 
 
 66 
 
 The neighboring region possesses many 
 localities and objects of interestj not so 
 accessible as to have found a proper place 
 in previously-described routes. Among 
 these points of historic or picturesque 
 interest may be mentioned Traveller's 
 Rest, on the lower Opequon, formerly the' 
 residence of General Horatio Gates, who 
 retired thither after his defeat and dis- 
 grace at the battle of Camden. This is 
 a plain and substantial country-house, 
 and the initials and coat-of-arms of Gates 
 are still noticeable upon the panes of one 
 of the wmdows, done, it is supposed, by 
 his own hand. A little nearer Winches- 
 ter, and in the vicinity of the small place 
 called Leetown, is the house occupied by 
 General Charles Lee, after retiring from 
 the army in consequence of his miscon- 
 duct and quarrel with Washington at the 
 battle of Monmouth. Lee lived here in 
 great squalor and discomfort, among his 
 dogs, and rarely visited any one but 
 Gates. He named his hounds after the 
 twelve apostles, to show his contempt 
 for religion, and directed in his will that 
 he should not be buried among Christians 
 in holy ground, as he had " kept too much 
 bad company during his life." His dis- 
 courtesy was shown by his riding away 
 from home when he heard that Washing- 
 ton, then in the neighborhood, was com- 
 ing to dine with him — ^previously affixing 
 to his door a paper with the words upon 
 it, " No meat cooked here to-day." His 
 house, which is still standing, is a small 
 and unpretending building of stone. 
 
 Ice Mountain, in Hampshire, 26 miles 
 iiorthwest of Winchester, is a striking 
 curiosity — blocks of ice being found 
 under loose stones on the sides of the 
 mountain, even during the most oppres- 
 sive heats of summer. {See Baltimore 
 & Ohio Railway.) On the west side of ! 
 the North Mountain are Candy's CasUe, 
 the Tea-Table, the Sanging Baclcs, Lost 
 River, the Demi's Qarden, etc. These do , 
 not admit of full description here, but are 
 all striking objects. The Lost River is so 
 called from its abrupt disappearance at 
 the base of a mountain, through which it 
 makes its way by subterranean channels, j 
 As a specimen of the wild and irregular 1 
 character of these localities, a brief sketch J 
 of the Devil's ffarden, in Hardy County, 
 is appended, on the authority of one en- 
 
WlNOnESTEE. 1 
 
 VIRGmLA.. 
 
 [Peteksbiteo. 
 
 titled to credit — Mr. Kercheval, author 
 of the "History of the Valley:" "Thia 
 strange freak of Nature lies at the head 
 of what is called Trout Run. Between 
 two bristling ranges of mountains, a nar- 
 row strip of ground commences ascend- 
 ing, and mounts for about three miles. 
 It then terminates suddenly in a dizzy 
 precipice, a vast Titanic pile of granite, 
 separated from the surrounding moun- 
 tains by yawning chasms, and descending 
 straight as an arrow not less than five 
 hundred feet. On the summit is a nat- 
 ural pavement of flat rocks, and on the 
 eastern edge stands a gigantic bust in 
 granite, the head, neck, and shoulders 
 clearly defined, and the whole appear- 
 ance savage and terrific. Near this 
 figure formerly stood a square granite 
 pillar about two feet in diameter and 
 twelve feet high, but this has been over- 
 thrown by some storm or convulsion 
 of the earth, and reclines, in the form of 
 an arch, across a fissure of the peak. 
 Such is the summit ; but the most singu- 
 lar part remains to be described. About 
 one hundred feet below the stone bust, 
 an opening leads into deep caverns in the 
 rock. Leaving the entrance, the explorer 
 finds himself in an apartment with a level 
 floor and ceiling; and, from this room, a 
 flight of stone steps ascends to another 
 apartment still larger. A third flight 
 gives access to a third cavern, and so on, 
 until the twelfth apartment is- reached by 
 the eleventh flight of steps, just beneath 
 the pavement of the summit, through fis- 
 sures in which a dim light enters the 
 cavern. Such is the singular character 
 of this natural curiosity which has re- 
 ceived the mysterious name of the ' Dev- 
 il's Garden.' " 
 
 The Capon Springi are- described in 
 the notices of the mountain watering- 
 places. (&p. 106.) 
 
 MOUTH ir. 
 
 WASBiireTOJf, D. a, to wsldon, n. c. 
 
 Via Stehmond & Pete/rtbwg <md Petersbwg 
 & TVeldon Bailways. 
 
 Washington (^sleamhoat) to Acquia 
 Creek, 55 miles ; Fredericksburg (con- 
 nects with stages to Charlottesville, Sul- 
 phur Springs, etc.), 69 miles ; Milford, 90 ; 
 
 Chester 101 ; Ashland, I'lS ; Richmond 
 (connects with Chesapeake & Ohio and 
 Richmond, Danville & Piedmont Rail- 
 ways), ISO ; Chester, 143 ; Port Walthall 
 Junction, 146 ; Petersburg (connects with 
 South Side and Norfolk & Petersburg 
 Railways), 152 ; Stony Creek, 174 ; Jar- 
 ratt's, 183 ; Hicksford Junction (Junction 
 of Gaston Branch), 202 ; Weldon (con- 
 nects with Wilmington & Weldon and 
 Seaboard & Roanoke Railways), 216. 
 
 Acquia Creek (55 miles), where 
 passengers, bound south, take the trains 
 of the Richmond, Fredericksburg & Po- 
 tomac Railway, is reached by a pleasant 
 and convenient line of steamboats from 
 Washington, which make the trip in 
 about four hours, affording travellers a 
 view of the banks of the Potomac, which 
 is, even at this distance from its mouth, a 
 majestic river. An object of special in- 
 terest on this route is Mount Vernon, the 
 home of Washington, which is visible 
 through the trees of the river's bank, and 
 to which it has long been the custom to 
 call attention by tolling the bell on the 
 boat. The boats on this route make the 
 trip to and from Washington daily, con- 
 necting with the day and night trains each 
 way, but are discontinued generally dur- 
 ing a brief portion of the winter, when the 
 Potomac is frozen over. These interrup- 
 tions are, however, brief, and the line 
 may be regarded as a regular and reliable 
 means of communication, as well as high- 
 ly agreeable from the pleasant variety in 
 prolonged railway travel. 
 
 Acquia Creek was an important military 
 depot during the war, for the Federal 
 forces operating in the region north of 
 Fredericksburg; and many localities in 
 its vicinity were rendered notable by at- 
 tacks from Confederate batteries on the 
 Federal shipping. 
 
 Frederickslmrg (69 miles) con- 
 nects with stages to Charlottesville, Sul- 
 phur Springs, etc. It is described in 
 Route VIII. 
 
 XCicIuuond. (130 miles) connects 
 with the Chesapeake & Ohio, Richmond 
 & Danville, and York River Railways, 
 (fe page 57). 
 
 Petersburg (152 miles) connects 
 with the South Side and Norfolk & Pe- 
 tersburg Railways. It is described in 
 Route VI. 
 
KOEPOLK.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [KOBFOLK. 
 
 '^cldon, N. C (216 miles), is a 
 thriTing post-village, on the right bank of 
 the Roanoke River, at the head of steam- 
 boat navigation, 95 miles northeast of 
 Raleigh. There is a canal around the 
 falls by which batteaux can ascend to 
 Danville. Weldon is the point of junc- 
 tion of the Petersburg & Weldon, Wil- 
 mington & Weldon, and Seaboard & Roan- 
 oke Railways. 
 
 MOUTH V. 
 
 BIOBMOm) TO NORFOLK. 
 Down die Ja/mai Ri/o&r. 
 
 The trip by steamer down the James 
 River carries one through some of the most 
 charming scenery of lowland Virginia. 
 
 Norlblk: is 300 miles from Xew 
 York by sea, 190 from Washington, 180 
 from Baltimore, and 140 from Richmond. 
 It is reached from Baltimore daily, by 
 steamboat down Chesapeake Bay. From 
 Richmond the route is by steamer down 
 James River. Several fine boats ply be- 
 tween the two cities, and in fair weather 
 the trip is a delightful one. 
 
 Hotels. — AtLatdic and National, both 
 on Main Street, are well-ordered houses. 
 The former has reading and billiard rooms 
 attached. The " Virginia " and " Com- 
 mercial " Club-houses, in Bank Street, are 
 popular chop and oyster houses. 
 
 Norfolk is pleasantly situated upon the 
 Elizabeth River, eight miles from Hamp- 
 ton Roads, and 32 miles from the ocean. 
 It was named Norfolk after one of the 
 counties of England, by Colonel Thoro- 
 good, who was one of the first settlers in 
 what was then known as Elizabeth City 
 Coimty. It contains 19,299 inhabitants, 
 and is, after Richmond, the most popu- 
 lous city in Virginia. A canal comes in 
 here through the Dismal Swamp, which 
 opens communication between Chesa- 
 peake Bay and Albermarle Sound. The 
 city was laid out in 1705, and incorpo- 
 rated as a borough in 1736. In 1776 it 
 was burnt by the British. In 1855 it was 
 visited by the yellow fever, which carried 
 off several hundreds of its inhabitants. 
 The harbor is large, safe, and easily ac- 
 cessible, defended at its entrance by Forts 
 Monroe and Calhoun. It is a great mar- 
 ket for wild-fowl, oysters, poultry, and 
 68 
 
 vegetables. The Oustom-Ebuse and PosU 
 Office, on Main Street, is a handsome edi- 
 fice, recently erected at a cost of $228,505. 
 The City Hall has a granite front, a cu- 
 pola 110 feet high, and a handsome porti- 
 co. The Baptist Chv/rch, on Freemason 
 Street, has a fine steeple. 
 
 It was off Norfolk that the memorable 
 naval engagement between the Confeder- 
 ate steam-frigate Merrimac and the 
 Federal iron-clad Monitor took place, 
 March 8, 1862. About noon, the former, 
 convoyed by a fleet of small vessels, 
 steamed into Hampton Roads. Steering 
 directly for the sloop-of-war Cumber- 
 land, whose terrific broadsides glanced 
 harmlessly, "like so many peas,"' from 
 the Merrimao's iron roof, she struck her 
 squarely with her iron beak, making a 
 large hole in her. The Cumberland sank 
 with all on board, her crew working her 
 guns to the last, and her flag floating 
 above the water from her mast-head after 
 she had gone down. Warned by the fate 
 of his companion, the captain of the frig- 
 ate Congress ran his vessel ashore, but 
 the Merrimac, taking a position astern, 
 fired into her until she was forced to 
 strike. At sunset, the Merrimac returned 
 to Norfolk, awaiting, the next day, an 
 easy victory over the rest of the Federal 
 fleet. The Monitor arrived, and, although 
 of only 900 tons burden, prepared to 
 meet her adversary of 5,000 tons. Early 
 in the morning the Merrimac appeared, 
 moving toward the steam-frigate Minne- 
 sota. Suddenly, from under her lee, the 
 little Monitor darted out, and hurled at 
 the monster two 1 68-pound balls. Startled 
 by the appearance of its strange-looking 
 antagonist, the Merrimac gave her a ter- 
 rible broadside, but the balls rattled 
 harmlessly off the Monitor's turret, or 
 broke and fell in pieces on the deck. 
 Then began the first battle of iron ships. 
 Closing with each other, they exchanged 
 their heaviest volleys. Five times the 
 Merrimac tried to run down the Monitor, 
 but her huge beak only grated over the 
 iron deck, while the Monitor glided out 
 unharmed. The Merrimac abandoned the 
 contest as useless, and steamed back to 
 Norfolk. Had the Merrimac triumphed, 
 aided by other iron vessels then being pre- 
 pared by the Confederacy, she might 
 have destroyed the rest of the Federal 
 
Portsmouth.] 
 
 TIRGINIA. 
 
 [Petersbceo. 
 
 fleet in Hampton Roads, redaced Fortress 
 Monroe, broken the blockade of the coast, 
 Bteamed into New York harbor, opened 
 the way for foreign supplies, and perhaps 
 hare obtained the acknowledgment of the 
 Confederacy by the leading powers of 
 Europe. 
 
 Portsmoutb, directly opposite 
 Norfolk, is a naval depot of the United 
 States, population in 1871, 10,492. At 
 the time of the secession of Virginia 
 (April 18, 1861), the marines and others 
 employed at the Navy-Yard numbered 
 nearly 1,000 men. Two days afterward 
 it was destroyed by fire, together with 
 the frigate Merrimac, the Pennsylvania, 
 and other ships-of-war. Property valued 
 at several millions was destroyed, and the 
 roar of the conflagration was heard for 
 miles. The U. 8. Naval Hospital, on the 
 south bank of the Elizabeth River, is an 
 imposing-looking building of brick, stuc- 
 coed. The Seaboard & Roanoke Rail- 
 way comes in at Portsmouth from Wel- 
 don, N. 0. Gosport Ues just below. 
 The United States Dry Dock at this sub- 
 urb is a work of great extent and inter- 
 est. Communication between Portsmouth 
 and Norfolk is kept up by ferry. Fort 
 Calhoun and Graney Island are at the 
 entrance to the harbor. Tri-weekly 
 steamers ply between Norfolk, City 
 Point, Newbem, Mattapony River, and 
 Cherrystone. The oysters obtained in 
 these waters are esteemed for their size 
 and flavor. 
 
 Norfolk and Portsmouth imported 
 foreign goods in the year ending June 30, 
 1871, to the value of $94,926. 
 
 JROUTE ri. 
 
 BICHMOm) TO NORFOLK. 
 
 Via Bicfmumd db Peterabwg and Atlantic, 
 Mississippi <& Ohio Railways. 
 
 Stations. — ^Richmond & Petersburg 
 Railway : Richpiond to Chester, 13 miles ; 
 Port Walthall Junction, 16 miles ; 
 Petersburg (connects with South Side 
 and Norfolk & Petersburg Railways), 22 
 miles. 
 
 Stations. — ^Atlantic, Mississippi & Ohio 
 Railway: Petersburg to Waverly, 21 
 miles; Ivor, 36 miles; Suffolk, 58 miles; 
 Norfolk (connects with Old Dominion 
 
 Company's steamships for New York, 
 and Baltimore Steam Packet Company's 
 steamers for Baltimore, etc.), 81 miles. 
 
 Petersburg (22 miles) is pleas- 
 antly situated on the south bank of the 
 Appomattox, and is connected with Nor- 
 folk, City Point, Weldon, and Lynchburg, 
 by Imes of railway. The falls of the 
 river above the city furnish extensive 
 water-power, and a canal around them 
 affords passage for boats a considerable 
 distance above. Before the war, Peters- 
 burg exported large quantities of flour 
 and tobacco, manufactured here; and 
 supported thriving cotton-mills belong- 
 ing to the Merchants', Matoaca, Ettrick, 
 Mechanics', Battersea, Canal, Washing- 
 ton, and Eagle Mills Companies. The 
 place contains banks, numerous churches, 
 and handsome public buildings, many of 
 which sustained serious injury during 
 the war. Petersburg is of ancient ori- 
 gin. It was laid out by Colonel William 
 Byrd, in 1733, on his return from an ex- 
 cursion to North Carolina. " When we 
 got home," he says, " we laid the foun- 
 dations of two large cities — one at Shac- 
 co's, to be called Richmond, and the 
 other at the point of Appomattox River, 
 to be called Petersburg." The place was 
 incorporated in 1748, and in 1752 a 
 bridge was built over the river. During 
 the Revolution, Petersburg fell into the 
 hands of the British, and General Phil- 
 lips, the English commander, died here, 
 and was buried in the graveyard attached 
 to old Blandford Church. This ivy-clad 
 ruin, standing on a hill in the eastern 
 suburbs of the place, is an object of 
 great interest from its venerable anti- 
 quity and highly-picturesque appearance. 
 On the wall, the comedian Tyrone Power 
 wrote some eloquent verses, which have 
 been pubhshed. Blandford was near the 
 Confederate and Union lines, in the war, 
 and was frequently in the range of artil- 
 lery-fire from the Federal batteries. 
 
 Petersburg was the scene of the last 
 great struggles during the late civil war. 
 Finding the avenues of approach to Rich- 
 mond, from the direction of the Cliieka- 
 hominy, barred by the Confederates under 
 General Lee, General Grant in June, 1864, 
 moved across James River below City 
 Point, and made an attack upon Peters- 
 burg, with a view of seizing the lines of 
 69 
 
FETEBSBtJSS.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [SeTBN FiNEJS. 
 
 railway connecting Richmond with the 
 South. The attack was repulsed, and 
 lines of works were then drawn around 
 the eastern and southern suburbs of the 
 city by both armies, and an obstinate 
 struggle began for the possession of the 
 place — with the view particularly, on the 
 part of General Grant, to obtain ultimate 
 possession of the South Side Railway 
 leading to Lynchburg. This struggle 
 which continued throughout the remain- 
 der of the year 1864, and up to April 2, 
 1866, was extremely bloody, fighting tak- 
 ing place nearly day and ni^t throughout 
 the whole time. The chief battle-fields 
 were near Dutch Gap, at the spot called 
 the Crater, where Lee's works were blown 
 up by a subterranean mine, the explosion 
 of which hurled men, cannon, and the 
 works, into the air ; Fort Steadman, 
 in the eastern suburbs of Petersburg, 
 where, in March, 1865, Lee made an at- 
 tempt to break through and permanently 
 sever the Union line ; and Fort Gregg and 
 Five Forks, where the final struggle took 
 place previous to Lee's evacuation of his 
 lines and retreat. These occurrences 
 surround the city with the utmost his- 
 toric interest, and the localities are still 
 distmctly traceable — ^the ruins of Stead- 
 man, Gregg, and other forts, the Crater, 
 and the various scenes of conflict. Gen- 
 eral Lee's headquarters were on the Cox 
 road, about two miles west of the city, 
 nearly opposite the tall Federal Observa- 
 tory. Turning at that point into the 
 Boydtou road, a morning's ride conducts 
 the visitor to Burgess's Mill, and the line 
 of defences along the White-Oak road, a 
 little beyond which is the famous locality 
 of Five Forks, where a last stand was 
 made by the Confederates for the posses- 
 sion of the South Side Railway, which is 
 - in the immediate vicinity of this point. 
 In consequence of his repulse at this 
 place, and the rupture of his line of 
 works in front of Petersburg, General 
 Lee abandoned the idea of attempting 
 longer to hold the city, and on the night 
 of April 2, 1865, evacuated the place, re- 
 tiring his forces over the Hickory road, 
 leading up the north bank of the Appo- 
 mattox, and blowing up his magazines in 
 the city, which on the next morning was 
 taken possession of by the Federal forces. 
 During the siege, Petersburg was fre- 
 '70 
 
 quently subjected to shelling by the Fed' 
 eral batteries, and much daibage was 
 done to the buildings. A comparatively 
 small number of the inhabitants sus- 
 tained injury from this shelling, and it was 
 not unusual to see yoimg ladies walking 
 quietly along the streets, visiting or shop- 
 ping, while chimneys were falling around 
 them under the cannon-fire. 
 
 Since the war, Petersburg has pros- 
 pered, and the marks of the conflict are 
 slowly disappearing. It will always, 
 however, attract the attention of tiie 
 tourist, from the importance and extraor- 
 dinary obstinacy of the final struggles 
 there, which have bestowed upon it the 
 name of the "Last Citadel of the Confed- 
 eracy." 
 
 The population of Petersburg in 1871 
 was 18,950. Importations in 1871, |16,- 
 361. Theleading hotelis JarrciCs, which 
 is well conducted. 
 
 Norfolk: (113 miles) is fully de- 
 scribed in the preceding route, also 
 Portsmouth, pp. 68, 69. 
 
 BOUTJE VII. 
 
 BICBMOND TO YOBKTOWM. 
 "Via Rielvmxmd & York Bveer RaUway anA 
 
 Richmond to Summit, 15 miles; White 
 House, 24;' West Point (connects with 
 daily line of steamers to and from Balti- 
 more), 38. 
 
 This line of railway, soon after leav- 
 ing Richmond, passes through a region 
 remarkable as the scene of many Import 
 taut events during the civil war. The 
 first localities of interest are Fair Oaks 
 Station and Seven Fines, about four miles 
 from the city. Here a severe battle took 
 place. May 31, 1862, between General 
 Johnston, commanding the Confederate 
 army, defending Richmond, and General 
 McClellan, commanding the army of the 
 United States. The Federal army, num- 
 bering, accordiog to official reports, 112,- 
 000 effective, men, had advanced up the 
 Peninsula between the James jnd York 
 Rivers, and a portion of the forces had 
 crossed the Chickahominy and advanced 
 to within a few miles of Richmond — the 
 rest occupying the north bank of the 
 Chickahominy, and extending toward Me- 
 
Cold Habbob.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [White Hocse. 
 
 chanicsville, above. General Johnston, 
 whose army numbered between '?0,000 
 and 80,000, determined to attack the 
 Federal force which had crossed, and did 
 BO, May 31st The locality of the battle 
 was ;&»cft Knes and Mtir Oaks — the 
 first, a spot on the Williamsburg road, 
 said to derive its name from seven large 
 pine-trees, and the latter, a station on 
 the York Kiver Bail way. The battle was 
 bloody but indecisive, the tangled char- 
 acter of the ground rendering the fight- 
 ing difficult. In the evening, General 
 Johnston was severely wounded by a 
 fragment of shell, near Fair Oaks, and 
 General R. E. Lee was assigned a few 
 days afterward to the command of the 
 army, in which position he remained to 
 the end of the war. About three miles 
 farther is Savage's Station. Here an en- 
 gagement took place, June 29th, between 
 the Confederates, under Magruder, and 
 the rear-guard of the Union army, then 
 retreating toward James River. In re- 
 tiring, the Federal forces left behind 
 them large quantities of military stores, 
 partially burned, and 2,500 sick in the 
 hospitals. M-aser's Farm and Malvern 
 Sill, where the final battles took place, 
 are farther south toward James River, 
 and out of this line of travel. 
 . A short distance from the point where 
 the York River Railway crosses the Chick- 
 ahominy* are Powhite Creek and Cold 
 Harhor, famous as the localities of the 
 great struggles of 1862 and 1864. 
 
 Powhite Creek is a sluggish water- 
 course emptying into the Chickahominy. 
 Its southern bank is commanding, and 
 was selected by General McClellan to re- 
 ceive Lee's attack, June 27, 1862. Lee 
 crossed at MechanicsviUe, above, and the 
 Federal forces at Beaver Dam retired. 
 Lee then pressed forward and reached 
 Cold Harbor, in the vicinity of which he 
 formed Une of battle and attacked Mc- 
 Clellan. The result of the battle, which 
 was of great fury, remamed for some 
 
 * This spot was the scene of a singnilar incident. 
 On their retreat, the Federal forces loaded a train 
 of cars at Savagfe Station with aounnnition, and 
 started it xmder a fall head of steam toward the 
 river. The locomotive went on safely until the 
 river was reached, where, owing: to the partial 
 destniction of the bridge, it was hurled into the 
 stream, the ammunition blowing: up with a noise 
 which was heard for many miles. 
 
 time doubtful, A. P. Hill suffering severe 
 loss, Jackson, however, arrived at the 
 critical moment, and attacked with great 
 impetuosity, when the Federal forces 
 gave way and retreated across the Chick- 
 ahominy toward James River. In June, 
 1864, another bloody battle took place 
 on nearly the same ground. General 
 Gjant, in May, crossed the Rapidan and 
 advanced toward Richmond, with the 
 aim, as he declared, of investing it on the 
 north and west. The obstinate stand 
 made by Lee caused him to deflect from 
 this route, and he finally reached the 
 vicinity of Cold Harbor, where he deter- 
 mined to make a final effort to break 
 through and seize Richmond. This led 
 to a very brief and bloody battle, June 3, 
 1864, in which the Federal army is reported 
 to have lost 13,000 men in half an hour. 
 The attack was unsuccessful, and Gen- 
 eral Grant then moved toward Peters- 
 burg. Old Cold Harbor is a tavern of 
 weather-board at a country cross-roads. 
 New Cold Harbor, one mile nearer the 
 Chickahominy, a small country store. 
 The vicinity is without attractions dis- 
 connected with the battles. Many of 
 the elaborate earthworks remain, and 
 the woods have partially disappeared be- 
 fore the armies: McGhee's house, Gaines's 
 Mill, and other points of interest, are near 
 Cold Harbor. The battle-field may be 
 reached by private conveyance from 
 Richmond, or by leaving the York River 
 Railway at Fair Oaks, Savage, or Dispatch 
 Stations. 
 
 ■White House, on the Pamunkey, 
 is a spot of historic interest as the scene 
 of Washington's marriage, in 1769, with 
 Martha Custis, though tradition leaves it 
 doubtful whether the ceremony did not 
 take place at St. Peter's Church, a vener- 
 able and highly-interesting edifice in the 
 vicinity. The mansion which originally 
 stood here was burned. The 6ircum- 
 stances under which Washington formed 
 the acquaintance of the lady soon to 
 become his wife are of an amusing char- 
 acter, and are thus related in Mr. Cus- 
 tis's "Life of Mrs. Martha Washington:" 
 
 "It was in 1758 that Washington, at- 
 tired in a military undress, and attend- 
 ed by a body-servant, tall and miliiaire 
 as his chief, crossed the ferry called Wil- 
 liams's, over the Pamunkey, a branch of 
 71 
 
White House.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [White Hocbe. 
 
 the York Hirer. On the boat touching 
 the southern or New Kent side, the sol- 
 dier's progress was arrested by one of 
 those personages who give the beau-ideal 
 of the Virginia gentleman of the old 
 regime, the very soul of kindness and 
 hospitality. It was in vain the sol- 
 dier urged his business at Williamsburg — 
 important communications to the GSot- 
 emor, etc. Mr. Chamberlayne, on whose 
 domain the militaire had just landed, 
 would hear of no excuse. Colonel Wash- 
 ington was a name and character so dear 
 to all Virginians, that his passing by one 
 of the castles of Virginia, without calling 
 and partaking of the hospitaUties of the 
 host, was entirely out of question. The 
 colonel, however, did not surrender at dis- 
 cretion, but stoutly maintained his ground 
 till Chamberlayne brought up his reserve, 
 mthe intimation that he would introduce 
 his friend to a young and charming widow, 
 then beneath his roof, when the soldier 
 capitulated, on condition that he should 
 dine — only dine — and then, by pressing 
 his charger, and borrowing of the night, 
 he would reach Williamsburg, before his 
 excellency could shake off his morning 
 slumbers. Orders were accordingly is- 
 sued to Bishop, the colonel's body- 
 servant and faithful follower, who, to- 
 gether with the fine English charger, had 
 been bequeathed by the dying Braddock 
 to Major Washington on the famed and 
 fated field of Monongahela. Bishop, bred 
 in the school of European discipline, 
 raised his hand to his cap, as much as to 
 say, ' Tour orders shall be obeyed.' 
 
 "The colonel now proceeded to the 
 mansion, and was introduced to various 
 guests (for when was a Virginia domicile 
 of the olden time without guests ?), and, 
 above all, to the charming widow. Tra- 
 dition relates that they were mutually 
 pleased, on this their first interview — nor 
 is it remarkable ; they were of an age 
 when impressions are strongest. The 
 lady was fair to behold, of fascinating 
 manners, and splendidly endowed with 
 worldly benefits. The hero was fresh 
 from his early fields, redolent of fame, 
 and with a form on which ' every god did 
 seem to set his seal to give the world as- 
 surance of a man.' 
 
 " The morning passed pleasantly away, 
 evening came, with Bishop, true to his 
 12 
 
 orders and firm at his post, holding the 
 favorite charger with one hand, while the 
 other was waiting to offer the ready stir- 
 rup. The sun sunk in the horizon, and 
 yet the colonel appeared not. " 'Twas 
 strange, 'twas passing strange ; ' surely 
 he was not wont to be a single moment 
 behind his appointments — for he was the 
 most punctual of men. 
 
 "Meantime, the host enjoyed the scene 
 of the veteran at the gate, while the colo- 
 nel was so agreeably employed in the 
 parlor ; and, proclaiming that no visitor 
 ever left his home at sunset, his military 
 guest was without much difSculty per- 
 suaded to order Bishop to put up the 
 horses for the night. The sun rode high 
 in the heavens the ensuing day, when the 
 enamoured soldier pressed with his spurs 
 his charger's side, and speeded on his 
 way to the seat of government, where 
 having dispatched his public business, he 
 retraced his steps, and at the White 
 House the engagement took place, with 
 preparations for marriage. 
 
 " And much hath the biographer heard 
 of that marriage from the gray-haired 
 domestics who waited at the board where 
 love made the feast and Washington the 
 guest. And rare and high was the revelry 
 at that palmy period of Virginia's festal 
 age ; for many were gathered to that 
 marriage, of the good, the great, the gift- 
 ed, and they, with joyous acclamations, 
 hailed in Virginia's youthful hero a hap- 
 py and prosperous bridegroom. 
 
 " ' And so you remember when Colonel 
 Washington came a-courting of your 
 young mistress,' said the biographer to 
 old Cully in his hundredth year. ' Ay, 
 master, that I do,' replied the ancient 
 family servant, who had lived to see five 
 generations ; ' great times, sir, great 
 times — shall never see the like again ! ' 
 ' And Washington looked something like 
 a man, a proper man — hey. Cully ? ' 
 'Never see'd the like, sir — never the like 
 of him, though I have seen many in my 
 day — so tall, so straight ! and then he 
 sat on a horse and rode with such an air ! 
 Ah, sir, he was like no one else. Many 
 of the grandest gentlemen, in the gold 
 lace, were at the wedding; but none 
 looked like the man himself.' Strong, 
 indeed, must have been the impression 
 which the person and manner of Wash- 
 
White House.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 fYoRKTOWIf. 
 
 ington made upon the rude, untutored 
 mind of this poor negro, since the lapse 
 of three-quarters of a century had not 
 sufficed to efface it." 
 
 The White House was during the early 
 part of 1862 an important depot. General 
 McClellan having fixed upon it for his 
 chief base of supplies, which were carried 
 over the York River Railway to his array 
 on the Chickahominy. On the retreat of 
 the Federal forces toward James River, 
 orders were issued for the destruction of 
 the great mass of stores. These orders 
 were promptly obeyed, and, when the 
 Confederate cavalry arrived, the White 
 House mansion, as well as the stores, 
 sutler's shops, etc., was a mass of black 
 and smoking ruins. 
 
 The sail down the York River, in the 
 steamer which connects at West Point 
 with the railway, is highly interesting — 
 this broad and majestic stream being one 
 of the most striking in Virginia. On the 
 left bank, nearly opposite the mouth of 
 Queen's Creek — and not at " Powhatan," 
 on the James River, as was long believed 
 — ^took place the famous 
 
 EESCtJE OF CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH BY 
 POCAHONTAS. 
 
 The Indian settlement there was called 
 Werowocomoco, and Smith thus defines 
 the exact locality : " Where this river is 
 divided, the country is called Pamunkee 
 (now West Point). About 25 mt/Ies lower, 
 on the north side of this river, is Werowo- 
 comoco, where their great king inhabited 
 when I was delivered him prisoner." 
 The precise locality of Werowocomoco, 
 where the rescue took place, is said to 
 have been " Shelly," an estate of the 
 Page family. The incident is well known. 
 Smith, while exploring the Chickahominy, 
 was attacked and captured by the savages, 
 who conducted him before their king, 
 Powhatan, monarch of all Tide-water 
 Virginia. Powhatan sat in great state, 
 surrounded by his wives, and promptly 
 ordered that the captive should have his 
 brains beaten out. Smith was accord- 
 ingly stretched with his head upon a 
 block, and a brawny savage raised his 
 club to slay him, when Pocahontas, Pow- 
 hatan's daughter, a girl of about thir- 
 teen, threw her arms around Smith's 
 neck, appealed to her father to spare 
 4 
 
 him, and succeeded in inducing the 
 savage emperor to release him. Poca- 
 hontas, as is known, became a Christian, 
 and married Thomas Rolfe, with whom 
 she went to England, where she died. 
 Many of her descendants still live in 
 Virginia — among these was the celebrat- 
 ed John Randolph of Roanoke. Not far 
 from " Shelly," where the romantic rescue 
 is said to have occurred, stands " Rose- 
 well," formerly the seat of Governor 
 Page, and probably the largest private 
 house in Virginia. This princely edifice, 
 whose materials were all brought over 
 from England, ruined its possessor, and 
 now stands on its bleak hill, lonely and 
 deserted, more like some feudal castle of 
 Europe, in the middle ages, than a mod- 
 em place of residence for a plain citizen 
 like Governor Page. 
 
 "fforlctcw^m, upon the York River, 
 11 miles from its entrance into Chesa- 
 peake Bay, 70 miles east-southeast of 
 Richmond, and about 12 miles from 
 Williamsburg, is memorable as the scene 
 of that closing event in the American 
 Revolution, the surrender of the British 
 army under Lord Comwallis, October 19, 
 1781. This event is commemorated in 
 one of Colonel Trumbull's pictures in the 
 rotunda of the Capitol at Washington. 
 The precise spot at Yorktown where the 
 scene of the surrender of the British arms 
 and standards took place will be pointed 
 out to the inquiring visitor. At the 
 time of the surrender the place contained 
 about sixty houses. In 1814 it was deso- 
 lated by fire. Remains of the intrench- 
 ments cast up by the British on the south 
 and east sides of the town are yet to be 
 seen. These mounds vary from 12 to 
 16 feet in height, and extend in broken 
 lines from the river-bank to the sloping 
 grounds back of the village. ComwaUia's 
 Cave is an excavation in the bluff upon 
 which the village stands, reputed to have 
 been made and used by lord Cornwallis 
 as a council-chamber durir-g the siege. 
 It is exhibited with this character for a 
 small fee. A quarter of a mile below 
 this cave there is another, which there is 
 good reason to believe really was thus 
 occupied by the English commander. 
 The region of country round Williams- 
 burg and Yorktown bears abundant evi- 
 dences of the operations conducted there 
 73 
 
Ashland.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [FBEDEBICKSBtmC^ 
 
 during the late war. rorktown was be- 
 sieged by General McClellan (April, 1862). 
 As he was ready to open fire, General 
 Magruder, having delayed the Union army 
 a month, evacuated the city. 
 
 ROUTE nil. 
 
 EIOHMOS'D TO FMEDMBICKSBUBG. 
 Via Sichmond, R:edeHcksbwrg t& Potomac 
 
 Stations: — Richmond to Ashland, 17 
 miles ; Chester, 29 ; Milford, 40 ; Freder- 
 icksburg (connects with stages to Char- 
 lottesville, Sulphur Springs, etc.), 60. 
 
 This is an agreeable excursion. The 
 railways runs through a country without 
 much to recommend it in the way of the 
 picturesque, but there are numerous spots 
 of interest. 
 
 Asbland (16 miles from Richmond) 
 13 a place of recent origin, and a favor- 
 ite residence for many citizens of Rich- 
 mond, especially in the summer, trains 
 ■ taking the residents in to their business 
 in the morning, and returning in the 
 evening. The houses are generally of 
 " cottage " architecture, and the hotel is 
 a handsome building, often used for 
 balls, etc. Near Ashland was the birth- 
 place of Henry Clay, who was often, 
 when a boy, seen riding with a bag to 
 mill, from which he received the name of 
 the "Mill-boy of the Slashes" — a term 
 used to describe the neighboring country. 
 Ashland was the scene of several cavalry 
 engagements during the war, between the 
 Confederates and the forces of Stoneman, 
 Kilpatrick, and Sheridan. 
 
 Hanover Junction is the point 
 where the Richmond, Fredericksburg & 
 Potomac and Chesapeake & Ohio Rail- 
 ways cross. General Lee here made an 
 important stand in May, 1864, against 
 General Grant. After the battles in the 
 Wilderness, and near Spottsylvania Court- 
 Souse, General Grant moved by his left 
 flank toward Hanover Junction, intending 
 to cross the North and South Anna Rivers, 
 and capture Richmond. On reaching the 
 north Anna, however, he found Lee again 
 in his front. Engagements followed. 
 Grant crossing the river on Lee's right 
 and left, but the attempt to drive Lee 
 from his position proved unavailing, and 
 
 Grant moved rapidly down to Hanover 
 town, when Lee fell back again toward 
 Richmond. The works occupied by the 
 armies, as elsewhere, may still be seen. 
 
 Chtinnei/'s was the scene of the death 
 of Stonewall Jackson. He was wounded 
 in the arm at Chancellorsville, May 2, 
 1863, and died May 10th, at the bouse of 
 William Chandler, near Guinnoy's, ex- 
 claiming, "Let us cross over the river 
 and rest under the shade of the trees ! " 
 
 Fredericksburg (60 miles north 
 of Richmond, and 70 miles south of 
 Washington) is one of the oldest cities in 
 Virginia, having been founded in the 
 year 1727. Colonel Byrd, describing it 
 in 1732, says: "It is pleasantly situated 
 on the south shore of Rappahannock 
 River, about a mile below the falls. 
 Sloops may come up and lie close to the 
 wharf, within thirty yards of the public 
 warehouses, which are built in the figure 
 of a cross." The city has Episcopal, 
 Presbyterian, Methodist, and Baptist 
 churches, an orphan-asylum, banks, etc, 
 A canal extends from the city up the 
 right bank of the river, and the falls 
 afford water-power for flour and other 
 mills. 
 
 Jihlmouih is on the north side of the 
 river, above the city. Fredericksburg 
 is notable as the locality of one of the se- 
 verest battles of the war, December IS, 
 1862. General Bumside, who had suc- 
 ceeded General McClellan in command of 
 the Army of the Potomac, attempted, on 
 the morning of December 11th, to throw 
 pontoons across the river at Fredericks- 
 burg, but was met by a sharp fire of 
 skirmishers which defeated Ms object. 
 He then opened an artillery-fire upon the 
 place from more than 100 guns posted on 
 the neighboring hills, which resulted in 
 great damage to the houses, setting many 
 of them on fire. The pontoon was then 
 laid at this point, and another lower down 
 the river, upon which General Bumside 
 crossed his army into the city, and the 
 plain beyond. Lee's army was posted on 
 the range of hills extending from the 
 western suburb of Fredericksburg, where 
 the ground is called Marye's ITdl, to 
 Hamilton's Crossing, on the railway some 
 miles below — the range gradually diverg- 
 ing from the river, with a plain between 
 it and Fredericksburg. On this plain 
 
FKEDEEIfiKSDtTKQ.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Fbecericksbcro. 
 
 General Burnside drew up his armj', and 
 early on December 13th advanced to at- 
 tack Lee's two wings — that on the right, 
 near Hamilton's Crossing, under Jackson, 
 and that on the left, on Marye's Hill, under 
 Longstreet. The attack on Jackson was 
 made by 10,000 men under General 
 Meade, who pierced Jackson's first line 
 and nearly seized the heights, but was 
 eventually driven back with heavy loss. 
 The attack on Longstreet at Marye's Hill 
 was also unsuccessful, the Federal troops 
 suffering frightful loss, from the nature of 
 the ground. Marye's Hill, a commanding 
 elevation, bristled with artillery, and at 
 the foot of the hill extended a stone wall, 
 behind which the Confederate infantry 
 was posted. Charge after charge was 
 made by the Federal troops toward this 
 wall, but the artillery-fire of the Confed- 
 erates from the hill, and the volleys of 
 musketry from behind the stone wall, near- 
 ly annihilated the charging columns as 
 they advanced. In this attack, Meagh- 
 er's Irish troops especially distinguished 
 themselves, leaving two-thirds of their 
 number dead or dying on the ground in 
 front of the stone walL Night then fell, 
 and the armies held their respective po- 
 sitions. General Burnside designed a re- 
 newal of the attack on the next day, 
 which General Lee expected, but this 
 design was finally relinquished, and on 
 Tuesday, December 16th, the Federal 
 army recrossed to the north bank of the 
 Rappahannock. Many traces of this 
 bloody conflict remain in Fredericksburg 
 and the environs, which may be observed 
 without difficulty by the traveller — the 
 trains passing over the ground where the 
 charge of General Meade was made. The 
 road running directly southward from the 
 river, on the traveller's left as the train 
 goes south, is the "old Richmond road," 
 which General Burnside speaks of in his 
 testimony before the War Committee. 
 This passes the railway at Hamilton's 
 Crossing below the Hamilton House, 
 where also the traveller will perceive a 
 country road running westward. This is 
 the Mine Road, which it was General Burn- 
 side's main aim to seize, thus getting in 
 Lee's rear. The crossing is about four 
 miles from Fredericksburg. The stone 
 wall at the foot of Marye's Hill, blackened 
 by bivouao-fires, still stands battered with 
 
 bullets, and many of the houses of the 
 city show the marks of cannon-balls. In 
 the gable end of one small house may be 
 counted fifty of these holes. Along the 
 river's bank, also are the ruins of an en- 
 tire quarter of the city, destroyed during 
 the cannon-fire of December lUh. On 
 the lofty ground north of the place 
 stands "Chatham," which General Burn, 
 side occupied as his headquarters. Gen- 
 eral Lee's headquarters were a few tents 
 in a thicket in rear of his line, near the 
 point of intersection of the Telegraph 
 and Mine Roads. A projection of the 
 range where the Telegraph Road descends 
 toward Fredericksburg has received the 
 name of "Lee's Hill," from the fact that 
 General Lee remained on this command- 
 ing ground near his centre for a portion 
 of the battle. 
 
 Fredericksburg was again the scene 
 of conflict, May 3, 1863. General Hook- 
 er, who had succeeded General Burnside 
 in command of the army, sent a strong 
 column to Fredericksburg, under General 
 Sedgwick, to cooperate in his movement, 
 across the upper Rappahannock, on Chan- 
 cellorsville. General Lee, perceiving that 
 the movement of Sedgwick was a feint, 
 went with his main force toward Chancel- 
 lorsville, leaving a small body of troops on 
 Marye's Hill and the range around the 
 city. These were attacked by General 
 Sedgwick, and, after an obstinate resist- 
 ance, driven from the hill, which was 
 seized by Sedgwick. He then advanced 
 up the turnpike toward Chancellorsville 
 to assist General Hooker. 
 
 An excursion in the same direction 
 will prove interesting to the traveller. 
 Leaving the city, a, broad and excellent 
 road leads over a breezy table-land to 
 Salem Church, about four miles from 
 Fredericksburg, and a little back from 
 the road. At this point. General Sedg- 
 wick, while advancing toward Chancel- 
 lorsville, was met by the Confederates, 
 and, after hard fighting, forced to retire 
 across the Rappahannock at Banks'sFord, 
 which is nearly opposite Salem. Beyond 
 the church is the " Mountain Way " 
 estate, which was General Sedgwick's 
 headquarters. The ground here is lofty 
 and the view fine. Fredericksburg lies 
 at the visitor's feet, as it were ; the Rap- 
 pahannock is seen to the northward, glit- 
 75 
 
Fredericksbubq.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Fredemcksbcko. 
 
 tering in the sun ; beyond are hills, and 
 far westward the ranges of the Blue 
 Ridge are traced against the sky. 
 
 A few miles beyond this point the visitor 
 enters what is called " The Wilderness," 
 a tract of gloomy thicket extending 
 around Chancellorsville, and the scene of 
 the great battle of that name in May, 
 1863. General Hooker had crossed the 
 Rappahannock and Rapidan at the end of 
 April, and concentrated his army around 
 Chancellorsville, toward which point Gen- 
 eral Lee, who had been with his forces 
 near Fredericksburg, marched to meet 
 him. The adversaries first met near 
 Tabernacle Church and Aldrich's house, 
 within a few miles of Chancellorsville, 
 and fighting ensued. Jackson, command- 
 ing Lee's advance, saw, however, that 
 General Hooker's position could not be 
 assailed in front, from the tangled nature 
 of the country, and the strength of his 
 works ; and it was resolved to make a 
 circuit and surprise the Federal right 
 ilank west of Chancellorsville. This was 
 done by Jackson, who marched secretly 
 around by the Furnace, south of Chancel- 
 lorsville, and fell, on the afternoon of 
 May 2d, on the Federal right, which he 
 completely routed. Night came so quick- 
 ly that confusion ensued, and Jackson was 
 riding in front of his men with a few ofiS- 
 cers, to reconnoitre, when his own troops, 
 mistaking the party for Federal cavalry, 
 fired on him, and inflicted wounds which 
 were the cause of his death, May 10th. 
 The command of his men was then in- 
 trusted to General Stuart, who, on the 
 next morning, May 3d, attacked the Fed- 
 eral forces on their right, while Lee at- 
 tacked in front. This resulted in the de- 
 feat of General Hooker, who, at 10 A. M., 
 fell back from Chancellorsville, which 
 was set on fire by shell and destroyed. 
 Lee was about to pursue, when intelli- 
 gence reached him of the advance of 
 General Sedgwick from Fredericksburg, 
 whereupon he sent a part of his force in 
 that direction. When he returned, after 
 the defeat of General Sedgwick, to make 
 a final attack on Hooker, the Federal 
 army was found to have retreated across 
 the Rappahannock. 
 
 This battle was remarkable as the last 
 in which General Stonewall Jackson dis- 
 played his extraordmary capacity and 
 76 
 
 vigor as a commander of troops in the 
 field. His flank march was a masterly 
 piece of strategy, and the result may be 
 fairly attributed to his sudden and over- 
 whelming attack. 
 
 The localities around Chancellorsville, 
 rendered interesting by the battle, are 
 numerous. The ruins of the house re- 
 main — once a large tavern. In front are 
 the Federal works. A short distance 
 westward, the small tree under which 
 Jackson lay, when shot, is pointed out. 
 Melzi Chancellor's, the Wilderness Church, 
 and, farther west, the old Wilderness Tav- 
 ern, .to which Jackson was borne, still 
 stand. He lay in a tent behind the tav- 
 ern, listening to the cannon of Sunday, 
 and here his arm was amputated. The 
 appearance of the country around Chan- 
 cellorsville is gloomy and uninviting, from 
 the endless thicket, pierced by narrow 
 roads only, and the melancholy associa- 
 tions connected with the region. It 
 again became the scene of conflict in 
 May, 1864, when General Grant crossed 
 and assailed Lee — a bloody battle taking 
 place on the Brock road, by which Jack- ; 
 son moved to surprise Hooker. The sur- 
 rounding country is notable for other im- 
 portant military movements and strug- 
 gles. Between Chancellorsville and Ter- 
 diersviUe, travelling west, i^ Mine Run, 
 behind which Lee drew up his army to 
 oppose General Meade in December, 1883 
 — the Federal commander retiring with- 
 out attacking, in consequence of the 
 severe cold, which, he said,- "froze his 
 sentinels on post." Southward from ,; 
 Chancellorsville is Spottsylvania Court- 
 House, where, in May, 1864, were fought 
 some of the bloodiest battles of Grant's 
 campaign on his way to Richmond. The 
 localities here indicated are not accessible 
 by public conveyances, but must be visit- 
 ed on horseback or in a light vehicle suit. 
 able for exploring the remote and often 
 difficult points of interest. 
 
 We return to add a few notices of 
 places of interest around Fredericksburg, 
 from which we set out. 
 
 Tlw Birthplace of Washington. — ^It was 
 in the vicinity of Fredericksburg that 
 Washington was born, and here he passed 
 his early years ; and here, too, repose the 
 remains of his honored mother. The 
 birthplace of the Father of his Country is 
 
{^DSBICERBVRG.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [WlLLlAMSBDIlQ. 
 
 about half a mile from the junction of 
 Pope's Creek with the Potomac, in West- 
 moreland County. It is upon the " Wake- 
 field estate," now in the possession of 
 John E. Wilson, Esq. The house in 
 which the great patriot was bom was 
 destroyed before the Revolution. It was 
 a plain Virginia farm-house of the better 
 class, with four rooms, and an enormous 
 chimney on ike outside at each end. The 
 spot where it stood is now marked by a 
 slab of freestone, which was deposited by 
 George W. P. Custis, Esq., in the pres- 
 ence of other gentlemen, in June, 1815. 
 On the tablet is this simple inscription : 
 "Here, THE 11th op Fkbruakt (©."S.), 
 1732, George Washington was Born." 
 
 The remains of the mother of Washing- 
 ton repose in the immediate neighborhood 
 of Fredericljsburg, on the spot which she 
 herself, years before her death, selected 
 for her grave, and to which she was wont 
 to retire for private and devotional 
 thought It is marked by an unfinished, 
 yet imposing monument. The corner- 
 stone of this structure was laid by An- 
 drew Jackson, President of the United 
 States at the time, on the 7th of May, 
 1833, in the presence of a large concourse 
 of people, and with solemn ceremonials. 
 After the lapse of almost a quarter of a 
 century the monument remains still un- 
 finished. The mother of Washington re- 
 sided, during the latter part of her life, 
 in Fredericksburg, near the spot where 
 she now lies buried. In a house recently 
 occupied by Mr. Richard Sterling, at the 
 comer of Charles and Lewis Streets, her 
 last but memorable interview with her il- 
 lustrious son took place, when she was 
 bowed down with age and disease. 
 
 The Miuonic Sail, in Fredericksburg, 
 is a building of unpretending appearance, 
 but possessing interest as the scene of 
 Washington's initiation into the mysteries 
 of the ancient order of free and accepted 
 Masons. A short time since the regalia 
 and working implements employed on the 
 occasion were exhibited; and there is 
 no doubt that Washington attended many 
 masonic meetings in this ancient edifice. 
 The principal hotel i.i the Exchange. The 
 city is connected directly with Alexan- 
 dria by the Alexandria & Fredericksburg 
 B. R., which connects at Quantico with 
 the Richmond, Frederickuburg & Potomac. 
 
 ROUTE IX. 
 
 mCBMOMD TO WILLIAMSBima. 
 
 Via James liiver JBoats. and Stages from 
 King's Mill Wiarf. 
 
 Objects of interest along James River 
 have been described in Route V. 
 
 'WiUlamsburg;', 60 miles east of 
 Richmond, and 68 mUes west of Norfolk, 
 the oldest incorporated town in Virginia, 
 and a place of extreme interest in its his- 
 torical associations, is built upon a plain, 
 between the York and James Rivers, six 
 miles from each. This was the seat of 
 the colonial government anterior to the 
 Revolution, and the capital of the State 
 until 1779. It was first settled in 1632. 
 William and Mary OoUege, founded 1692, 
 is the oldest educational establishment in 
 the United States, after Harvard Univer- 
 sity. Previous to the war it had a fine 
 library. The losses sustained by this in- 
 stitution during the war are estimated at 
 $80,000. An appeal for its relief is being 
 urged abroad. In the centre of the lawn, 
 fronting the college, is a mutilated statue 
 of Lord Botetourt, one of the most popu- 
 lar of the old colonial Governors. This 
 statue was placed in its present position 
 in 1797. Palace of Lord Dunmore, — The 
 remains of this ancient building, the home 
 of the last of the royal Governors of Vir- 
 ginia, are at the head of a pleasant broad 
 court, extending from the main street in 
 front of the City HalL It was built of 
 brick. The centre edifice was accident- 
 ally destroyed by fire while occupied by 
 the French soldiers, just after the surren- 
 der of Comwallis at Yorktown. Here the 
 stately old Governor lived, or attempted 
 to live, in regal splendor. All that now 
 remains of his pomp are the two little 
 out-buildings or wings of his palace, yet 
 to be seen by the visitor at Williamsburg. 
 The Old Capitol stood on the site of the 
 present Court-House, on the square, oppo- 
 site the Magazine. It was destroyed by 
 fire in 1832. A few of the old arches lie 
 yet around, half buried in the greensward. 
 It was in the " Old Capitol" that the Bur- 
 gesses of Virginia were assembled when 
 Patrick Henry, the youngest member of 
 that body, presented the series of bold 
 resolutions which led to his famous 
 speech : " Cssar had his Brutus, Charles 
 77 
 
W^ILLIAMSBTTRQ.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [HANOYEa CotTBT-HoUSE. 
 
 the First Ms Cromwell, and George the 
 Third" — concluded by those master- 
 words, when the excited assembly in- 
 terrupted him with the cry of " Treason ! 
 treason ! " — " may profit by their exam- 
 ple. If this be treason, make the most 
 of it 1 " The ApoUo Room of the Raleigk 
 Tavern was an apartment in another time- 
 honored old building of WiUiamsburg, in 
 which the House of Burgesses assembled 
 to consider the revolutionary movements 
 which were then passing in Massachu- 
 setts. This assembly had just been dis- 
 solved by the Governor, in consequence of 
 its passage of acts in opposition to those 
 of the Lords and Commons of England, 
 just before received. The Queen's Ran- 
 gers, commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Simcoe, entered Williamsburg, driving out 
 the Virginia militia, on the stormy night 
 of AprU 19, 1781. The thoughtful trav- 
 eller will delight himself by recalling 
 other incidents ia the history of the lo- 
 calities here presented, and in following 
 the course of the great train of events 
 which resulted from or were connected 
 with them. JBrenton Church, a venerable 
 ediiice of the early part of the last cen- 
 tury, stands on the public square, near 
 Palace Street or Court. It is a cruciform 
 building, surmounted by a steeple. Near 
 Erenton Church is an octagonal edifice, 
 built during the administration of Gov- 
 ernor Spottswood, known as the Old 
 Magazine. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum 
 of Virginia is also located at this place. 
 
 On May 5, 1862, the Confederate rear- 
 guard, reenforced from the army of Gen- 
 eral Joseph E. Johnston, at Richmond, 
 stopped in the forts at WUliamsburg to 
 gain time for the baggage-train, and a 
 fierce battle at once took place. "Fight- 
 ing Joe " Hooker, with his division, main- 
 tained the contest for nine hours. Other 
 troops at last arrived on the bloody bat- 
 tle-field, the works were carried by as- 
 sault, and the pursuit continued to with- 
 in seven miles of Richmond. 
 
 nOUTJE X. 
 
 RICHMOND TO TEE WHITE SXTLPEXm 
 
 SPBINGS. 
 
 Tta Cliesapedke & Ohio Railway. 
 
 Richmond to Hanover Court-Hou3e, 18 
 
 mUes ; Junction, 28 ; Beaver Dam, 40 ; 
 
 78 
 
 Frederick's Hall, 60 ; Louisa Court-House, 
 62 ; Gordonsville (connects with Orange & 
 Alexandria Railway), 76 ; Xeswick, 90 ; 
 Charlottesville, 97; Mechum'a River, 107; 
 Greenwood, 116 ; Waynesboro', 124 ; 
 Staunton (connects with stages to Weyer's 
 Cave, 17, and Augusta Springs, 12), 136 ; 
 Craigsville, 169 ; Goshen (connects with 
 stages to Lexington, 21 ; Natural Bridge, 
 35 ; Rockbridge Alum, 8 ; Rockbridge 
 Baths, 9), 168; Milboro' (connects with 
 stages to Bath Alum, 10 ; Warm Springs), 
 176 ; Jackson's River, 196 ; Coving- 
 ton (connects with stages to Healing 
 Springs, 15, and Hot, 18), 206 ; Alle- 
 ghany (connects with stages to Old 
 Sweet, 9, and Red Sweet Springs), 221 ; 
 White Sulphur Springs (connects with 
 stages to Blue Sulphur, 26 ; Salt Sulphur, 
 23 ; Red Sulphur Springs, 40), 227. 
 
 The Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, now 
 in operation from Richmond, across the 
 State of Virginia, and West Virginia to 
 Huntington at the head of reliable navi- 
 gation on the Ohio River, was completfe'd 
 in the spring of 1873, and is at the 
 present time in full operation. This 
 road establishes a new and highly -im- 
 portant trunk-line between the sea-board 
 and the West, having such advantages 
 of grades, distance, fuel, climate, and 
 light capital indebtedness, as will en- 
 able it to command a large share of the 
 heavy freights from the West, connect- 
 ing, as it does, the inland and seaboard 
 navigation by the most favorable line, at 
 advantageous points. The insnense de- 
 posits of coal and iron along its route 
 must also furnish a large local traffic in 
 both directions. 
 
 BSanover Conrt-Konse (18 
 miles) is noted as the scene of Eatrick 
 Henry's early oratorical triumphs, and as 
 the birthplace of Henry Clay. It is 
 pleasantly situated near the Famunkey 
 River. Three miles from the Court- 
 House, on the right of the turnpike-road 
 leading to Richmond, stands the house 
 in which Clay was born. The building 
 is a " one-story frame," with dormer 
 windows, and a large outside chimney 
 (after the universal fashion of Southern 
 country-houses) at each gable. In this 
 humble tenement the Senator who " would 
 rather be right than be President " was 
 bom, in 1777. The flat, piny region, in 
 
SaNOVBR COTJET-flotrSE.] 
 
 viRGmu. 
 
 [Lezington. 
 
 ^hich it is situated is called the Slashes 
 of Hanover ; hence the popular sobriquet 
 faniiliarly applied to the great statesman, 
 of the " Mill-boy of the Slashes." Han- 
 over awakens pleasant memories of Pat- 
 rick Henry assembling his volunteers and 
 marching to Williamsburg to demand the 
 restoration of the powder which Lord 
 Dunmore had removed from the public 
 magazine or payment therefor, a daring 
 demand, which he however succeeded in 
 enforcing, as the Governor, alarmed at 
 the strength of his cortege, which grew 
 as he went along to 150 in number, sent 
 out the Receiver-General with authority 
 to compromise the matter. The young 
 leader required and obtained the value 
 of the powder, £330, and sent it to 
 the treasury at WUliamsburg. This, in- 
 cident happened at Newcastle, once a 
 prosperous village, but now a ruin, with 
 a single house only on its sita 
 
 The Old Court-House at this place at- 
 tained earlier celebrity still as the scene 
 of Senrt/'s great speech in the Parson^ 
 Cause. Henry was at that time a broken 
 merchant, addicted to fishing and playing 
 the fiddle, and had finally embraced the 
 profession of the law, for want of some- 
 thing better to do. The Parsons' Cause 
 was his first suit. This was an action 
 brought by the clergy to recover amounts 
 due them, under the law, as payment for 
 their services. The law was so clearly in 
 favor of the plaintiffs (the clergy) that 
 the struggle was abandoned, and Henry 
 assumed the championship of the oppo- 
 site side at haphazard. When he rose to 
 address the court, one of whom was his 
 own father, he trembled and stanmiered 
 out broken words, and was overwhelmed 
 with confusion. This embarrassment, 
 however, rapidly disappeared — ^his head 
 rose erect, his tones grew clear and com-- 
 manding, and he poured upon the clergy- 
 men, sitting upon the bench beside the 
 members of tiie court, such a flood of 
 denunciation, that they retired in confu- 
 sion or indignation from the court-house. 
 Henry was loudly applauded during his 
 speech by the people in the court-room, 
 whose sentiments he had eloquently ex- 
 pressed, and such was the general excite- 
 ment and delight, that he was caught up, 
 borne into the yard, and hoisted upon the 
 shoulders of his admirers, who carried 
 
 him in triumph. This was the beginning 
 of Henry's famous career, and his speech 
 on the occasion is said to have been 
 worthy of his subsequent fame as an ora- 
 tor. His father shed tears of delight, 
 and, when the old farmers of Hanover 
 afterward wished to express the highest 
 possible opinion of a public speaker, they 
 were accustomed to say, " He is almost 
 equal to Patrick Henry when he plead 
 agMnst the parsons." 
 
 The Court-House is a short walk across 
 green fields from the station. 
 
 GordonsTille (76 miles) con- 
 nects with the Orange d; Alexandria Jtail- 
 ■may. (See Route XII.) 
 
 Cliai-lottesTille (97 miles) con- 
 nects with the Orange, Alexandria & 
 Manassas Railway. (See Route XIH.) 
 
 Staanton (136 miles) is one of the 
 favorite starting-points for a tour of the 
 spring and mountain region of Virginia. 
 It connects with stages to Weyer's and 
 Madison's Cave, 18 miles, and Augusta 
 Springs, 12 miles. The village is pleas- 
 antly situated in Augusta County, upon 
 a small branch of the Shenandoah River. 
 Among the principal objects of interest 
 in the place are the Western Lunatic 
 Asylum and the State Institution for tlie 
 Deaf, Dumb, and Blind. 
 
 The stage connections of Goshen, Mill- 
 boro, Covington, and Alleghany with 
 various points of interest in the spring 
 region, are given above in the list of 
 stations. Full particulars concerning the 
 numerous springs and the many well- 
 known natural curiosities of this part of 
 the State will be found in the section de- 
 voted to the spring and mountain region, 
 which will be found at the end of this 
 chapter. 
 
 From Croshen (168 miles), a line of 
 stages connects with Lexington, 21 miles 
 distant, which may also be reached by 
 the James River & Kanawha Canal, 38 
 miles from Lynchburg. Lexington was 
 founded in 17Y8, and stands in the midst 
 of a beautiful and fertile region. It has 
 Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Baptist, and 
 Methodist churches. 
 
 The Virginia Military Institute and 
 Washington-Lee College render Lexing- 
 ton peculiarly interesting to the traveller. 
 The Military Institute was established bj 
 act of Assembly in 1838, and soon be 
 79 
 
Lexinstos.] 
 
 SOUTHERN- TOUE. 
 
 [SlATIOSa 
 
 came an important military academy as 
 well as an excellent college for the in- 
 struction of youth in mathematics, the 
 languages, the natural sciences, and en- 
 gineering. It became immediately popu- 
 lar, and, when hostilities broke out be- 
 tween the sections, its corps of cadets, 
 regularly uniformed and drilled, took part 
 in the civil war, and fought with the 
 coolness of veteran troops. Since the 
 war the Institute has resumed its efficiency 
 and may be regarded as a military acade- 
 my of the highest class. 
 
 Washington GoUege was established in 
 1776. In 1796 it was presented by 
 Washington w ith a number of shares in the 
 James River & Kanawha Canal Company ; 
 and the name, which had been Liberty Hall, 
 was changed to Washington College. The 
 number of students before the war was 
 generally about 100; but in 1865 General 
 K. E. Lee accepted the presidency, 
 which brought a hirge accession to the 
 list of students — the name of Lee attract- 
 ing the Southern youth from far and 
 near. Tiie course of studies was then 
 enlarged, and the college became one of 
 the most prominent and important in the 
 South — General Lee applymg himself to 
 the onerous duties of his office of presi- 
 dent with unintermitting zeal and atten- 
 tion. The number of students reached 
 500, and embraced the flower of the 
 Southern youth. On General Lee's death, 
 the name of the college was changed to 
 Washington-Lee, and General G. W. 
 Custis Lee succeeded his father in the 
 presidency ;. since that event the college 
 has continued to prosper in the highest 
 degree, and its popularity has not dimin- 
 ished. New professorships have been 
 added from time to time, and the philan- 
 thropist Mr. Peabody bestowed a valu- 
 able donation on the institution, the af- 
 fairs of which are now upon a broad and 
 stable foundation. In the Presbyterian 
 cemetery at Lexington repose the re- 
 mains of General Stonewall Jackson, long 
 a professor in the Virginia Military In- 
 stitute. A slab of the plainest material 
 marks the resting-place of this celebrated 
 soldier; but it is proposed to erect a 
 tomb over his ashes worthy of a man 
 whose Christian virtues, no less than his 
 military genius, have excited the admira- 
 tion of both friends and enemies. 
 80 
 
 Lexington has received from its great 
 institutes of education the name of the 
 " Athens of Virginia," and the tourist will 
 find on every hand objects of interest. 
 Among these is the "Lee Chapel," a 
 touching memorial of the great soldier 
 who here ended his days; and in the 
 chapel will be soon erected an imposing 
 mausoleum in marble, representing the 
 soldier stretched beneath his cloak in 
 bivouac, the work of the eminent sculptor 
 Edward Valentine, of Richmond. 
 
 Covington (205 niUes) is the 
 county-seat of Alleghany County, and a 
 thriving place on Jackson's River, at the 
 head of James River navigation. 
 
 "tVliite Snlpbnr Springs (22? 
 miles) is fully described in the chapter 
 on the spring region. (See page 94.) 
 From the springs to Huntington is 194 
 miles, and here, as in its route across 
 Virginia, the Chesapeake & Ohio traverses 
 a picturesque and highly-interesting re- 
 ^on well worth the attention of the tour- 
 ist. 
 
 nOUTE XI. 
 
 BIOEMOND TO GBEENSSOBO, 2K 0. 
 
 Via BieTwnondj Dajwille t& Piedmorit Ball 
 loay. 
 
 Stations : — Richmond to Coalfield, 13 
 miles ; Powhatan, 23 ; Amelia Court- 
 House, 36; Burkesville (connects with 
 South Side Railway for Lynchburg), 54 
 Keysville, 74 ; Roanoke, 90 ; Scottsburg, 
 101; Boston, 109; Barksdale's, 127 
 Danville, 141; Ruffin, 156; ReidsviUe, 
 165; Morehead, 181; Greensboro (con- 
 nects with North Carolina Railway for 
 Raleigh and points south), 189. 
 
 Crossing James River on a handsome, 
 covered bridge, the trains on this route 
 pass through Manchester, a populous 
 outlying suburb of Richmond, with ex- 
 tensive railway buildings, and, running 
 under the track of the Richmond & 
 Petersburg Railway, reach the Midloihian 
 Coal Mines, 13 mUes from Richmond, 
 with which the mines also connect by 
 a private railway for transporting coal 
 by horse-power to the city. The coal- 
 region is estimated to be about 50 miles 
 long and 12 broad ; and the " Clover 
 Hill " coal has a high reputation. It is 
 bituminous, and of the first quality. The 
 
BOKKESVILLK.] 
 
 VIEGIOTA. 
 
 [Appomattox 
 
 Midlothian Mines are worked by a com- 
 pany with Bucceas, though frightful ac- 
 cidents have occurred here, resulting in 
 considerable loss of life, 
 
 BurkesTillle (64 miles) is situated 
 at the intersection of the Kiohmond & 
 Danville and the South Side Railway, 
 from Petersburg to Lynchburg. This 
 point became one of importance in April, 
 1865. General Lee, having evacuated 
 Petersburg on the night of April 2d, re- 
 treated up the north bank of the Appo- 
 mattox, and, recrossing, reached Amelia 
 Court-House, from which it was his de- 
 sign to advance to Burkesville Junction. 
 General Grant moved more rapidly tow- 
 ard the same point from Petersburg, and, 
 having a shorter distance to pass over, 
 reached the place before Lee, who was 
 forced to halt at Amelia Court-House to 
 obtain rations. The presence of General 
 Grant at Burkesville induced him to alter 
 his line of march and retire toward 
 Lynchburg, which resulted, April 10, 
 1865, in the surrender of the Confederate 
 forces at Appomattox Court-House. The 
 country through which the Richmond & 
 Danville Railway passes is famous for its 
 fine crops of tobacco, which is manufac- 
 tured in large quantities both for chewing 
 and smoking. Roanoke on the route wiU 
 recall the famous orator " John Randolph 
 of Roanoke," who passed nearly his en- 
 tire life in the region, leaving behind him, 
 in the memories of the aged, many char- 
 acteristic and unpublished anecdotes. 
 
 DanTllle (141 miles), the terminus 
 of the Richmond & DanvUle Railway, is 
 pleasantly situated at the head of naviga- 
 tion on the Dan River, five miles from the 
 boundary-line of North Carolina. It is 
 the market town of the best tobacco- 
 growing country in Virginia. The Pied- 
 mont Railway (which does not deserve the 
 name, as it nowhere touches the foot of 
 any thing resembling a mountain) runs 48 
 miles to Greensboro, North Carolina, and 
 terminates at that place. 
 
 MOUTE XII. 
 
 BiaHMONB TO LTWOEBURa. 
 
 Via Biclimondi & DarmUU and South Side 
 Haihoaye, 
 This route aa far as Burkesville has been 
 described in Roitte XL of Virginia. The 
 
 following are the stations and distances 
 between that place and Lynchburg : 
 
 Stations on South Side Railway : — 
 Burkesville to Farmville, 16 miles ; Pros- 
 poet, 28; Appomattox, 48; Lynchburg 
 (connects with Orange, Alexandria & 
 Uanassas Railway), 71 ; 125 miles from 
 Richmond. 
 
 BurkesTille Jnnction is de- 
 scribed in EooTE XI. 
 
 FarmTllle (16 miles) is a thriving 
 town, estabhshed in 1798, and has long 
 been an important tobacco-market for 
 this part of Virginia. It is at the head 
 of batteau navigation on the Appomattox, 
 and has Presbyterian, Methodist, and Bap- 
 tist churches, a bank, etc. Near this place 
 the South Side Railway passes over High 
 Bridge, a structure of great height. Farm- 
 ville is in Prince Edward County, near the 
 court-house of which is situated Hamp- 
 den-Sydney College. The region is chiefly 
 interesting as that in which the final 
 movements of the Federal and Confed- 
 erate armies took place in April, 1865, 
 when General Lee retreated toward 
 Lynchburg, pursued by General Grant. 
 
 Appomattox (102 miles). Near 
 this spot, at Appomattox Court-House, 
 took place the surrender of the Army of 
 Northern Virginia, under Lee, to General 
 Grant, April 9, 1865. Having, evacuated 
 his lines at Petersburg on the night of 
 April 2d, and reached Amelia Court- 
 House on April 5th, Lee, finding his 
 line of retreat toward Danville barred by 
 the Federal army, turned to his right, and 
 moved toward Lynchburg, closely pur- 
 sued by the Federal forces. These came 
 up with him near Farmville, and severe 
 fighting occurred near the High Bridge, 
 also along the road after leaving that 
 point. The sufferings of the Confed- 
 erates were now extreme, owing to 
 the want of rations which General Lee 
 had expected to obtain at Amelia Court- 
 House. The horses were without for- 
 age, and could not drag the guns, 
 large numbers of which were therefore 
 obliged to be abandoned, and the men 
 were so starved as to clutch at and grind 
 between their teeth, with avidity, grains 
 of corn. The fighting, after leaving 
 Farmville, continued day and night, and 
 the men were in numerous instances so 
 exhausted as not to be able to carry their 
 81 
 
Ippomattox.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Appomattox, 
 
 muskets. The prospects of the Confed- 
 erates were now desperate, and a promi- 
 nent ofiScer suggested to Lee the neces- 
 sity of surrender^ but he is said to have 
 replied, " I have too many good fighting- 
 men for that ! " The force thus alluded 
 to was about 8,000 muskets. On the 
 '7th, General Grant wrote, alluding to 
 " the hopelessness of further resistance " 
 by the Confederates, and calling upon 
 Lee to surrender ; and a correspondence 
 ensued — the forces still in motion. Lee 
 wrote on the 8th, that he did not " think 
 the emergency had arisen to call for the 
 surrender ; " but on the 9th, finding that 
 Federal infantry to the number, as one 
 of their officers stated, of 80,000 men, were 
 in his front, he at Appomattox Court- 
 House surrendered his army, numbering 
 '7,800 muskets — the men to return to their 
 homes and remain unmolested, and the 
 officers to retain their side-arms and pri- 
 Tate property. 
 
 The surrender was afiecting, and the 
 appearance of Lee among his men, after 
 agreeing to the Federal terms, powerfully 
 moved the troops who thronged around 
 him, weeping and grasping his hands. 
 The interview between General Grant and 
 General Lee took place in Appomattox 
 Court-House, and not under an apple- 
 tree, as is erroneously reported. A recent 
 writer thus speaks of this scene : 
 
 " It has been popularly reported that 
 the first interview between the two com- 
 manders took place under an apple-tree, 
 which has consequently been crowned 
 with historic associations. This is false. 
 The fact is, that, on the morning of the 
 9th of April, General Lee, with a single 
 member of his staff, was resting under an 
 apple-tree, when Colonel Babcook, of 
 General Grant's staff, rode up under a 
 flag of trace, saying tKat if General Lee 
 remained where he was, General Grant 
 would come to him by the road the latter 
 was then pursuing. This was the only 
 interview under or near the apple-tree ; 
 and it may be mentioned here, that the 
 following day Colonel Marshall, who at- 
 tended General Lee on the occasion, was 
 surprised to find Federal soldiers hacking 
 at the tree, and was amused at their idea 
 of obtaining from it mementos of the sur- 
 render. Obtaining news of Grant's ap- 
 proach. General Lee at once ordered 
 82 
 
 Colonel Marshall to find a fit and conven- 
 ient house for the interview. Colonel 
 Marshall applied to the first citizen he 
 met, Mr. Wilmer McLean, and was direct- 
 ed to a house vacant and dismantled. 
 He refused to use it; and Mr. McLean 
 then offered to conduct him and the gen- 
 eral to his own residence, a comfortable 
 frame house, with a long portico and 
 convenient " sitting - room," furnished 
 after the bare style of the times. The 
 house was about half a mile distant from 
 General Lee's camp. The Confederate 
 commander was attended only by one of 
 his aides. Colonel Marshall, a scion of the 
 old and illustrious Marshall family of 
 Virginia, who had been the constant 
 companion of General Lee in all his cam- 
 paigns, and, as his private secretary, had 
 done good literary service in the prepara- 
 tions of reports of battles, etc.,- which are 
 now historical. With Grant, there were 
 several of his staff-officers ; and a number 
 of Federal generals, including Ord and 
 Sheridan, entered the room, and joined in 
 the slight general conversation that took 
 place there. The interview opened with- 
 out the least ceremony. The story has 
 been frequently repeated that General 
 Lee tendered his sword, and that General 
 Grant returned it with a complimentary 
 remark. There was no such absurdity. 
 General Lee wore his sword (which was 
 not his usual habit) ; and, on the exchange 
 of salutations, General Grant remarked : 
 " I must apologize, general, for not wear- 
 ing my sword ; it had gone off in my bag- 
 gage when I received your note." Gen- 
 eral Lee bowed, and at once, and without 
 further conversation, asked that General 
 Grant would state, in writing if he pre- 
 ferred it, the terms on which he would 
 receive the surrender of the Army of 
 Northern Virginia. General Grant com- 
 plied by sitting at a table in the room, 
 and writing with a common lead-pencil 
 the note so well remembered." 
 
 The scene of this great historic event 
 — the surrender of the Confederates — is 
 some two miles from the railway, and the 
 surrounding country is fertile and pict- 
 uresque. The hamlet of Appomattox 
 Court-House stands on a lofty hill, and 
 just west of it is the ground upon which 
 General Gojdon, commanding the Con- 
 federate advance, encountered in a last 
 
Fairfax.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Wabrenton. 
 
 struggle the powerful adversary in his 
 front. The flag of truce with a view to 
 surrender wag displayed west of the 
 place, and the Federal column entered 
 from the west, wavuig a large white flag, 
 indicating the suspension of hostilities. 
 The house in which Lee surrendered liis 
 army is still standing. 
 
 I<yncb1>n.rg (126 miles) is de- 
 scribed in Route XIII. 
 
 nOUTE XIII. 
 
 WAsmiiraToir ro LTirasBUBG. 
 
 Via the Orange^ Alexcmdria <& Manassas 
 Jiailway. 
 
 Stations : — Washington to Alexaadria 
 (connects with Alexandria & Washing- 
 ton and the Washington & Ohio Rail- 
 ways), 1 miles ; Springfield, 15 ; Fair- 
 fax, 24 ; Manassas (connects with Manas- 
 sas Branch), 34 ; Catlett, 45 ; Warrenton 
 Junction, 47 ; Bealeton, 54 ; Rappahan- 
 nock, 58 ; Culpepper, 69 ; Rapidan, 81 ; 
 Orange, 87 ; Gordonsville (connects with 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway), 96 ; Kes- 
 wick, 110; Charlottesville, 117; Coves- 
 ville, 133 ; Lovingston, 148 ; New Glas- 
 gow, 168 ; Amherst, 164 ; Lynchburg 
 (connects with Atlantic, Mississippi & 
 Ohio Railway), 178. 
 
 This line of travel conducts the tourist 
 through a region full of memorials, both 
 of the Revolutionary era and the late 
 civil war. On leaving Alexandria (which 
 has been described in Route I.), the 
 trains pass over the scenes of the earliest 
 struggles of the war, the outposts of the 
 opposing armies occupying this ground 
 for a large part of the time. 
 
 Fairfax (24 miles) is a post-village, 
 the county-seat of the county of the same 
 name, with churches and a court-house. 
 The place was occupied in June and 
 July, 1861, by the advance force of 
 Beauregard's army, which retired on the 
 appearance of the Federal army, to Bull 
 Bun, July 17th, when the place fell into 
 the hands of the Federal forces. It was 
 afterward repeatedly occupied by both 
 armies, and suffered considerably. 
 
 manassas (34 miles) has been 
 described in Route I. 
 
 KearBristoe Station, four miles 
 from Manassas, took place an engagement 
 
 in August, 1862, between General Pope, 
 then falling back on Manassas, and a 
 part of General Johnston's army under 
 Ewell, who held the Federal force in 
 check until Manassas was destroyed. In 
 October, 1863, near the same place, a 
 portion of General Lee's forces attacked 
 General Warren, commanding the rear 
 of General Meade, then retiring, but were 
 repulsed with heavy loss in men and 
 guns, 
 
 Catlett's (46 miles) was the scene 
 in August, 1862, of a daring raid of the 
 Confederate cavalry under General Stu- 
 art, who descended on the place, cap- 
 turing General Pope's official papers 
 and uniform-coat ; the papers throwing, 
 it is said, important light upon the 
 Federal numbers and designs. Near this 
 spot also in October, 1863, Stuart was 
 hemmed in with his cavalry, between the 
 retirmg columns of the Federal army 
 which marched by, within a few hundred 
 yards of him all night, without discover- 
 ing his presence. At daylight Stuart 
 opened with artillery upon the Federal 
 rear-guard, and succeeded in escaping 
 from his perilous position. 
 
 Warrenton. (47 miles) connects 
 by branch road with Warrenton Junction. 
 It is the county-seat of Fauquier, and is a 
 handsome town, situated in an agreeable 
 country. During the war, from its ex- 
 posed position, it was frequently occupied 
 by both armies. It is now thriving and 
 prosperous. At the railway crossing over 
 the Rappahannock, General Lee, while 
 falling back in 1863, met with severe 
 loss from a sudden attack on his in- 
 trenchments north of the river by General 
 Meade. At Brandy Station, a few miles 
 south of the river, took place two of the 
 largest cavalry engagements of the war. 
 The first was June 9, 1863, when Stuart, 
 occupying the south bank of the river, 
 was attacked by a large body of Federal 
 cavalry in front, flank, and rear. He 
 retreated to Fleetwood Hill, near Brandy, 
 where he made an obstinate stand, and 
 succeeded in repulsing the attack on him 
 — ^the Federal forces retiring at night 
 across the river. In this action about 
 20,000 cavalry are said to have been en- 
 gaged. The second cavalry-fight near 
 Brandy was in October of the same year. 
 Stuart advanced upon Culpepper Court- 
 83 
 
OnLPEPPBB OoTOT-HocsE.] SOUTHERN TOTTR. 
 
 [CaAKtOMESVILLB. 
 
 House from the direction of the moun- 
 tains, compelling General Kilpatrick to 
 retire before him ; and General Pitzhugh 
 Lee advanced at the game time from the 
 Rapidan in pursuit of General Buford. 
 The consequence was that, while Stuart 
 was pressing Kilpatrick, Buford came 
 down on Stuart, and Fitzhugh Lee upon 
 Buford. The various columns were 
 huddled together near Brandy, and a 
 confused engagement ensued, which ter- 
 minated in the retreat of the Federal 
 savalry to the Rappahannock, which 
 General Meade had already crossed with 
 his infantry. 
 
 Culpepper Conrt-Honse (69 
 miles) was an important military point 
 during the war, the place having been 
 occupied and reoccupied time after time 
 by both armies, between whom numerous 
 engagements occurred in the fields sur- 
 rounding the village. It is a pleasantly- 
 situated town, with churches, etc., and is 
 the coimty-seat of Culpepper. This 
 county, from its peculiar position, was the 
 scene of almost incessant military move- 
 ments, and the traces of war are perhaps 
 more visible, here than in any other 
 portion of Virginia. A large part of the 
 woodland has disappeared, and many 
 ruins are met with, which date from the 
 time when the county was occupied by 
 General John Pope. Culpepper County 
 was famous in Revolutionary times for 
 its company of " Culpepper Minute-Men," 
 in which Chief-Justice Marshall was en- 
 rolled and fought, and whose iiag bore a 
 picture of a coiled rattlesnake with the 
 motto, " Don't tread on me ! " Of this 
 body of men, John Randolph is reported 
 to have said that " they were summoned 
 in a minute, armed in a minute, marched 
 in a minute, fought in a minute, and 
 vanquished ia a minute " — which may be 
 said to be a good specimen of the mili- 
 tary " double-quick." Crossing the Rap- 
 idan River, which was the line of de- 
 fence frequently held by the Confederates 
 during the war, the traveller passes 
 Orange Court-House, an agreeable village, 
 and reaches 
 
 fiwordomsviUe (69 miles). This is 
 a busy place, whose importance is due to 
 the connection here made by the Orange 
 & Alexandria and Chesapeake & Ohio Rail- 
 ways. The incessant arrivals and de- 
 84 
 
 partures of trains over these two preat 
 routes keep the place in a contmual 
 bustle, and must eventually increase the 
 size and importance of the town. 
 
 CbarlottesTllle (117 miles), fa- 
 mous as the seat of the ITniversity of 
 Virginia, and for its vicinage to Monti- 
 cello, the home and tomb of Thomas 
 Jefferson, is situated on the Rivanna 
 River, in the east-central part of the 
 State, 119 miles from Washington City, 
 by the Orange & Alexandria and the 
 Virginia Central Railways. The Univer- 
 sity of Virginia, one of the most dis- 
 tinguished of the colleges of the United 
 States, is situated about a mile west of 
 the village of Charlottesville. It is built 
 onmoderatley-elevated ground, and forms 
 a striking feature in a beautiM landscape. 
 On the southwest it is shut in by moun- 
 tains, beyond which, a few miles distant,, 
 rise the broken, and occasionally steep and 
 rugged, but not elevated ridges, the char- 
 acteristic feature of which is expressed . 
 by the name of Ragged Mountains. 
 To the northwest the Blue Ridge, some 
 20 miles off, presents its deep-colored out- 
 line, stretching to the northeast and look- 
 ing down upon the mountain-like hills 
 that here and there rise from the plain 
 without its western base. To the east 
 the eye rests upon the low mountain- 
 range that bounds the view as far as the 
 vision can extend northeastward and 
 southwestward along its slopes, except 
 where it is interrupted directly to the 
 cast by a hiUy but fertile plain through 
 which the Rivanna, with its discolored 
 stream, flows by the base of MonticeUo. 
 To the south the view reaches far away 
 until the horizon meets the plain, embra- 
 cing a region lying between the mountains 
 on either hand, and covered with forests 
 interspersed with spots of cultivated land. 
 The University of Virginia was founded 
 in 1819 by Thomas JefiEerson, and so 
 great was his interest in its success, and 
 his estimate of its importance, that in his 
 epitaph, found among his papers, he 
 ranks his share in its foundation third 
 among the achievements and honors of 
 his life — the authorship of the Declaration 
 of Independence being the first, and of 
 the Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom 
 the second. The university is endowed 
 and controlled by the State. 
 
CBAXLOnESTILtE.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Ltnchbcro. 
 
 Moniicello, once the beautiful home, 
 and now the burial-place of Jefferson, 
 is about four miles west of CharlotteBville. 
 " This Teneratod mansion," saya Mr. Los- 
 sing, in his " Meld Book of the Revolu- 
 tion," " is yet standing, though somewhat 
 dilapidated and deprived of its former 
 beauty by neglect. The furniture of its 
 distinguished owner is nearly all gone, 
 except a few pictures and mirrors ; other- 
 wise the interior of the house is the same 
 as when Jefferson died. It is upon an 
 eminence, with many aspen-trees around 
 it, and commands a view of the Blue 
 Ridge for 150 miles on one side, and on 
 the other one of the 'most beautiful and 
 extensive landscapes in the world. Wirt, 
 writing of the interior arrangements of 
 the house during Mr. Jefferson's lifetime, 
 records that, in the spacious and lofty 
 hall which opens to the visitor on enter- 
 ing, ' he marks no tawdry and unmeaning 
 ornaments ; but before, on the right, on 
 the left, all around, the eye is struck and 
 gratified by objects of science and taste, 
 so classed and arranged as to produce 
 their finest effect. On one side specimens 
 of sculpture, set out in such order as to 
 exhibit at a coup d'ceil the historic prog- 
 ress of that art, from the first rude 
 attempts of the aborigines of our country, 
 up to that exquisite and finished bust of 
 the great patriot himself, from the master- 
 hand of Cerracchi. On the other side, 
 the visitor sees displayed a vast collection 
 of the specimens of the Indian art, their 
 paintings, weapons, ornaments, and man- 
 ufactures ; on another, an array of fossil 
 productions of our country, mineral and 
 animal; the petrified remains of those 
 colossal monsters which once trod our 
 forests, and are no more ; and a varie- 
 gated display of the branching honors of 
 those monarchs of the waste that still 
 people the wilds of the American Conti- 
 nent ! In a large saloon were exquisite 
 productions of the painter's art, and from 
 its windows opened a view of the sur- 
 rounding country such as no painter could 
 imitate. There were, too, medallions and 
 engravings in great profusion.' Monti- 
 cello was a point of great attraction to 
 the learned of all lands, when travelling 
 in this country, while Mr. Jefferson lived. 
 His writings made him favorably known 
 as a scholar, and his public position made 
 
 him honored by the nations. The re" 
 mains of Mr. Jefferson lie in a small fami- 
 ly cemetery by the side of the winding 
 road leading to Monticello." Over them 
 is a granite obelisk eight feet high, which 
 bears the following inscription : 
 
 *'IIEEB LIES BTTBTSD 
 
 THOMAS JEFFEE80N, 
 
 Author of tlie Declaration of Independence; 
 
 of the Statute of Virginia for Eeligioaa Freedom ; 
 
 And Father of the ITniTersity of Tirginla." 
 
 KiOT'iiigston (148 miles). This 
 place is a post-village, situated on a 
 branch of Tye River, and surrounded by 
 hills, from which a fine view of the Blue 
 Ridge may be obtained. 
 
 Ijynchbiirg; (178 miles) is a city 
 of considerable importance, from the lines 
 of railway which centre here, and the 
 extent and character of its tobacco and 
 other manufactures. It was founded in 
 1786, and the extremely steep and incon- 
 venient locality is said to have been se- 
 lected from the existence of Lynch's 
 Ferry at the point. The place is built 
 upon ground many portions of which 
 are almost precipitous; and this has 
 gained for it the name of the " Hill City." 
 A fact of some interest in connection 
 with Lynchburg should not be omitted, 
 namely, that the term " Lynch law," now 
 of world-wide use, is said to have origi- 
 nated here. William Wirt, in his Life 
 of Patrick Henry, says : " In 1792, there 
 were many suits on the south side of 
 James River for inflicting Lynch's law." 
 From what precise incident the phrase 
 took its rise, we are unable to say. 
 Lynchburg is a prosperous, thriving, and 
 important city, with numerous places of 
 worship, a bank, a college, and handsome 
 public buildings. It was frequently occu- 
 pied during the civil war, and, in 1864, 
 General Hunter advanced up the Valley 
 to seize it, but was forced to retreat be- 
 fore the Confederates under General 
 Early. It was subsequently threatened 
 by General Sheridan, but was never in 
 the hands of the Federal authorities. 
 The main importance of the place is due 
 to the lines of travel passing through it, 
 and the tobacco-manufactures here. The 
 James River & Kanawha Canal, and the 
 South Side, the Orange, Alexandria & 
 Lynchburg and the Lynchburg & Ten- 
 88 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [LiBBBTT. 
 
 nessee Railways centre at this point ; and 
 tlie city is one of the main stopping- 
 places of tourists coming to visit the 
 mineral springs of the region. The water- 
 ■jower of Lynchburg is very extensive, 
 and furnishes numerous mills. The 
 "Lynchburg tobacco" grown on the 
 south side of James River, and here manu- 
 factured into chewing and smoking tobac- 
 co, is famous throughout the world for 
 the fineness of its flavor and quality. 
 
 It was toward Lynchburg that General 
 Lee, in April, 1865 directed his retreat, 
 and he narrowly missed reaching the 
 place — ^iu which event, his design was to 
 have retreated into the western moun- 
 tains, where he is said to have been confi- 
 dent of his ability to "carry on the war 
 for twenty years." 
 
 JROUTE xir. 
 
 LTuronBTma to bbistol. 
 
 via, Atlantie, Mississippi <6 OHo BaMway 
 ( Virgima & Termeasee). 
 
 Stations: — ^Lynchburg to Forest, 11 
 miles ; Liberty, 25 ; Buford's, 37 ; Bon- 
 sack's, 43; Salem, 60; Alleghany, 11; 
 Chrlstiausburg, 86 ; Dublin, 105 ; Max 
 Meadow, 124; Wytheville, 133; Rural 
 Retreat, 146 ; Marion, 160 ; Glade Spring, 
 1Y6; Abingdon, 189; Bristol (connects 
 with East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia 
 Railway), 204. 
 
 The Atlantic, Mississippi & Ohio Rail- 
 way (otherwise Virgima & Tennessee) 
 passes through the large extent of coun- 
 try known as " Southwestern Virginia," 
 and famous for its wild scenery and inex- 
 haustible mineral resources. It inter- 
 sects or passes between the parallel ram- 
 parts of the great range of the Allegha- 
 nies, the backbone of the Atlantic slope 
 of the continent, as the Rocky Mountains 
 are the backbone of the Pacific slope ; 
 and scenes full of picturesque grandeur 
 meet the eye of the traveller on every 
 side. Long after the settlement of the 
 valley, and the region along the upper 
 waters of the Potomac, Southwestern 
 Virginia remained comparatively unex- 
 plored ; and it was the scene of merciless 
 savage inroads, the history of which is pre- 
 served in De Hass's " Indian Wars," and 
 other interesting publications. This fact, 
 86 
 
 together with the rugged and mountain- 
 ous character of the country, retarded its 
 settlement ; but, of late years, the fertility 
 of the valleys, shut in by the towering 
 ranges, has attracted a numerous and in- 
 telligent population, which, with the con- 
 struction of the great lines of railway, 
 must rapidly increase. Those who have 
 explored the region confidently regard it 
 as a future seat of empire, from its min- 
 eral resources ; and its wild and beauti- 
 ful scenery is destined to attract the lov- 
 ers of the picturesque. 
 
 Eiyncbbnrg has been described in 
 Route XIIL (See page 85.) 
 
 liiberty (25 miles), the county-seat 
 of Bedford, is a thriving town, with Bap- 
 tist, Presbyterian, Episcopal, and Meth- 
 odist churches, and is surrounded by a 
 beautiful rolling and fertile country, 
 bounded by a background of great sub- 
 limity. The Blue Ridge runs across the 
 northwestern horizon, and attains its 
 greatest height, about seven miles dis-. 
 tant, in the femous Feaks of Oiler. 
 
 These celebrated mountain -peaks, 
 which the visitor may reach by stages 
 from Liberty, are isolated from the rest of 
 the range, and, with the exception of some 
 peaks in North Carolina, are the loftiest 
 in the Southern States. The estimated 
 height of the most elevated, the northern 
 peak, is 4,200 feet above the plain, and 
 5,307 feet above the level of the ocean — 
 more than one mile. The southern peak 
 is most frequently visited. After reach- 
 ing a certain altitude, the visitor is com- 
 pelled to dismount, in consequence of the 
 abrupt ascent, and to proceed on foot. 
 The ascent is now exceedingly arduous, 
 and the explorer is compelled at times to 
 have recourse to the assistance of the 
 dwarfish trees, twisted and gnarled by 
 storms. Finally all verdure disappears, 
 even the blackberry and other bushes, and 
 a huge mass of rocks, reared into a Ti- 
 tanic pile, forms the summit of the peak, 
 piercing, bald, naked, and sublime, into 
 the blue sky. To reach this dizzy pin- 
 nacle, the visitor passes around the base, 
 beneath the overhanging mass, and then 
 ascends by clambering over the rocks. 
 The summit at last attained, the view is 
 one of sublime and overpowering gran- 
 deur and beauty. The beholder's eye takes 
 in at a glance the great Valley of Vir-' 
 
' Bonsack's.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Bristol. 
 
 ginia, with its cities, towns, rivers, and 
 moantains, traced as it were upon a map : 
 and the sensation experienced is one of 
 complete isolation from all else on the 
 terrestrial globe. The view is boundless 
 — and has been described as " beautiful, 
 variegated, grand, wild, and wonderful " — 
 piled-up adjectives to describe the view 
 from the piled-up pinnacle 1 Near by 
 stands the second peak, like a sullen sen- 
 tinel — the Blue Kidge and AUeghanies 
 melt far off into the sky, and the sol- 
 cnm silence seems to sink into the soul. 
 John Kandolph is said to have once spent 
 the night upon this dizzy summit, and, 
 when the sun rose in majestic splendor 
 over the boundless prospect, is reported 
 to have turned to his body-servant and 
 said : " Never from this time believe any 
 one who tells you that there is no God ! " 
 
 Sonsack's — Coyner's Springs (48 
 miles). From this point lines of stages 
 connect with the Natural Bridge, Lex- 
 ington, Sweet Springs, White Sulphur, 
 etc. 
 
 Salem (60 miles), the county-seat of 
 Roanoke, is a prosperous town, the ter- 
 mination of navigation by the Koanoke, 
 and canals from Weldon, N. C, and the 
 proposed point of connection of the Shen- 
 andoah Valley Railway with the Atlantic, 
 Mississippi & Ohio. 
 
 AUeg'bany (Shawsville, '1'! miles). 
 At this point, travellers, designing to visit 
 the Alleghany Springs, leave the train, 
 and will find provided for their tempo- 
 rary accommodation a commodious hotel. 
 The springs are three miles distant, and 
 are reached by stages. (See chapter on 
 the Springs.) 
 
 Cbristia.ms'biirg (86 miles), the 
 county-seat of Montgomery, is a thriving 
 place, with several churches, and, like 
 
 We~wl»epii (105 miles) connects with 
 the Springs by Unes of stages. 
 
 WytlieTille (133 miles), the coun- 
 ty-seat of "Wythe, is a neat, well-built, 
 and flourishing place, with numerous 
 churches. The lead-mines in this county, 
 about 13 miles distant, on New River, 
 have been worked with profit. A de- 
 scription of them may be found in Morse's 
 Geography. 
 
 Marion (160 miles) is the county- 
 seat of Smythe. 
 
 €rlade Sprigs (l'?6 miles) con- 
 
 nects by branch railway with Saltville, 
 eight miles distant. 
 
 Ablugftloii (189 miles), the county- 
 seat of Washington County, is a flourish- 
 ing place, well built, chiefly of brick, in 
 the midst of a fertile and quite thickly- 
 settled district. There are in the town a 
 number of mechanical and manufacturing 
 establishments. 
 
 Bristol (204 miles) connects with 
 East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Rail- 
 way. Bristol is described as " the most 
 bustling town of Virginia, and one of the 
 liveliest and most animated, for its size 
 (population 1,800), south of the Potomac." 
 The Nicliols Senile is an hotel of metro- 
 politan dimensions. With the exten- 
 sion of the system of railways connecting 
 the Lower Mississippi with the Atlantic 
 seaboard, Bristol must become a point of 
 importance. From this point the trav- 
 eller in search of the picturesque may 
 most conveniently reach the famous 
 Natural Tunnel in Scott County, 42 
 miles distant. This is one of the most 
 remarkable curiosities in Virginia, and 
 will well repay the trouble of reaching it 
 by the rugged roads extending across 
 the mountains. It is a, natural tunnel, 
 piercing a rocky rampart of the moun- 
 tain, and is thus described. 
 
 " To form an idea of this remarkable 
 and truly sublime object, we have only to 
 imagine the creek to which it gives a pas- 
 sage, meandering through a deep, narrow 
 valley, here and there bounded on both 
 sides by walls or revetemenis rising to the 
 height of two or three hundred feet above 
 the stream ; and that a portion of one of 
 these chasms, instead of presenting an 
 open, thorough cut, from the summit to 
 the base of the high grounds, is inter- 
 cepted by a continuous, unbroken ridge, 
 more than three hundred feet high, ex- 
 tending entirely across the valley, and 
 perforated transversely at its base, after 
 the manner of an artificial tunnel, and 
 thus afibrding a spacious subterranean 
 channel for the passage of the stream. 
 The entrance to the natural tunnel, on 
 the upper side of the ridge, is imposing 
 and picturesque in a high degree; but on 
 the lower side the grandeur of the scene 
 is greatly heightened by the superior 
 magnitude of the cliffs, which exceed in 
 loftiness, and which rise perpendicularly, 
 81 
 
Bristol.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Gbate Cbeec, 
 
 and, in some instances, in an impending 
 manner, more than three hundred feet, 
 and by which the entrance on this side 
 is almost environed, as it were, by an 
 amphitheatre of rude and frightful preci- 
 pices. The observer, standing on the 
 brink of the stream, at the distance of 
 about one hundred yards below the <U- 
 louchure of the Natural Tunnel, has in 
 front a view of its arched entrance, ris- 
 ing seventy or eighty feet above the wa- 
 ter, and surmounted by horizontal strati- 
 fications of yellowish white and gray 
 rocks, in depth nearly twice the height 
 of the arch ; on his left, the view of the 
 saane mural precipice, deflected from the 
 springing of the arch, in a manner to pass 
 thence, in a continuous curve quite to 
 his rear, and towering in a very impres- 
 sive manner above his head. On his 
 extreme right is a gigantic cliff, lifting it- 
 self up perpendiciJarly from the water's 
 edge, to the height of about three hun- 
 dred feet, and accompanied by an insu- 
 lated cliff called the Chimney, of about 
 the same altitude, rising in the form of a 
 turret, at least sixty feet above its base, 
 which is a portion of the imposing cliff 
 just before mentioned." 
 
 This striking perforation of the rock 
 has a regularly arched ceiling, smooth 
 sides, and is in the form of the letter S. 
 With the locality are associated several 
 romantic and exciting legends and inci- 
 dents. The spot is well worthy of a 
 visit, and the grandeur of the surround- 
 ing mountains attunes the "mind of the 
 visitor in unison with the locality. 
 
 Westekn Virginia, which, speaking in 
 general terms, extends from the Valley 
 of the Shenandoah to the Ohio River, is 
 accessible to the tourist — in consequence 
 of the rugged and mountainous character 
 of the country — ^by only two or three 
 main routes of travel. The chief of these 
 are the Baltimore <Sb Ohio Railway, and 
 branch from Grafton to Parkersburg ; 
 and the Chesapeake & Ohio, which is now 
 in full operation, and offers the tourist an 
 uninterrupted line of travel from Rich- 
 mond, via White Sulphur Springs, up 
 the New River and Kanawha Valley to 
 the Ohio. Western Virginia, from its 
 comparatively late settlement, does not 
 afford the tourist as many objects or lo- 
 calities of historic or antiquarian interest | 
 88 
 
 as Eastern Virginia ; and, from the dif- 
 ferent nature of the country, few military 
 occurrences of any magnitude or import- 
 ance took place here. When Eastern 
 Virginia in 1861 seceded from the Union, 
 Western Virginia, which held compara- 
 tively few slaves, and contained » con- 
 siderable population, originally from 
 Pennsylvania and other Northern States, 
 refused to follow her example, but ad- 
 hered to the Union side, subsequently 
 erecting the territory northwest of the 
 Alleghanies into a separate State. The 
 only military movements of importance 
 which took place in the region were the 
 advance of General McClellan in 1861 to 
 Rich MounUiin and Oarrick's Ford, where 
 he met and completely defeated a Con- 
 federate force under Generals Pegram 
 and Gamett ; and the subsequent advance 
 of General Rosecrans, which brought on 
 a desultory warfare, but resulted in noth- 
 ing decisive on either side — ^the moun- 
 tainous character of the country render- 
 ing military operations of all descriptions 
 exceedingly unprofitable and discourag- 
 ing. With the termination of the war. 
 Western Vir^ia continued a separate 
 State, though a large party in both East- 
 ern and Western Virginia are said to de- 
 sire a reunion of the two into one Com- 
 monwealth again. 
 
 For a notice of some localties and ob- 
 jects of special interest in Northwestern 
 Virginia, see Raliimors & Ohio Railway, 
 pages 14 to 23. 
 
 Ora-re Creek, mf. Va. (47 
 miles), is the capital of Marshall County. 
 JBig and Little Grave Creeks enter the 
 river here, leaving an interval of a mile 
 in width, on which the village is built. 
 It is divided into two distinct villages of 
 nearly equal size, namely, Elisabethtovm 
 and Momidsville, the former of which is 
 the seat of justice. Moundsville derives 
 its name from the Mammoth Mbuni in 
 the vicinity, one of the largest in the 
 United States. These mounds, which 
 are relics of an ancient people, appar- 
 ently Indian, are so common in the 
 West that not much notice is given to 
 them. The great one near Moundsville, 
 which is 70 feet, and the one at Miamis- 
 burg, Ohio, which is 68 feet in vertical 
 height, no doubt mark the graves of per- 
 sonages of high consequence among the 
 
Skllaire.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 fMoCNDSVILM. 
 
 builders of these monuments. The com- 
 mon notion that the mounds contain vast 
 heaps of slain, and are the memorials of 
 great battles, is wholly unsupported by 
 facts. A very large mound was entirely 
 removed from near St. Louis, Mo., in 1870, 
 for the purpose of making an embank- 
 ment for the approaches to the great 
 bridge across the Mississippi. In the 
 same vicinity there stands one which is 
 700 feet long, 500 feet broad at the base, 
 and 80 feet high, covering upward of eight 
 acres of ground, and having 20,000,000 
 cubic feet of contents. 
 
 nellaire, O. (89 miles), is de- 
 scribed in Appleton's Hand-Book-of 
 American Travel — Western Tour (p. 
 70). A full description of the Ohio Riv- 
 er, and every town on either bank of it, is 
 given in the same volume (pp. 164—172). 
 
 tVlieeliiig, "W. Va. (93 miles), 
 formerly the capital of the State, and 
 now capital of Ohio County, is situated 
 on both sides of Wheeling Greek, at its 
 mouth, and is the principal city between 
 Pittsburg and Cinc'mnati. The first set- 
 tlement was made in 1769, and the city 
 now has a population of about 25,000. 
 Wheeling is built, for the most part, 
 upon an alluvial tract extending along 
 the river about three miles, and shut in 
 by hills. The beautiful wire suspension- 
 bridge, by which the National Road here 
 crosses the river, has one of the longest 
 spans in the world, it being 1,010 feet. 
 The height of the supporting-towers is 60 
 feet above the abutments, and 153 feet 
 above low-water mark. Tour wire cables, 
 each 1,380 feet long, and 8 inches in di- 
 ameter, support the bridge. The cost 
 was $210,000. A splendid railway - 
 bridge, obviating the transfer of freight 
 and passengers by ferry, was completed 
 m 1870. 
 
 As a manufacturing centre. Wheeling 
 possesses rare advantages from its imme- 
 diate proximity to large fields of coal and 
 iron, and to the oil-regions of the State, 
 and from its river and railroad connec- 
 tions. Like most manufacturing cities, 
 it is smoky, dingy, and disagreeable. It 
 has the following railway connections: 
 by Baltimore & Ohio Railway and its 
 branches with Baltimore, Cincinnati, and 
 Sandusky, and by Cleveland & Pittsburg 
 Bailway with the two cities named. The 
 
 Hempfield Railway, now partially com- 
 pleted, will be a short route to Pittsburg. 
 Bridg^cport, O. (93 miles), is 
 described in the Western Tohr, p. 166. 
 
 MOUTE XV. 
 
 PAREEBSBXJBG, W. VA., TO WBEELINa, 
 W. TA. 
 Via ScUUmore t& OMo Bailway. 
 The route between Parkersburg and 
 Grafton is tuUy described in Route I., 
 Marylanb. The following are the sta- 
 tions and distances between Grafton and 
 Wheeling : 
 
 Grafton to Fetterman, 2 miles ; Texas, 
 15 ; Benton's Ferry, 18 ; Fairmount, 23 ; 
 Farmington, 33 ; Mannington, 40 ; Little- 
 ton, 58 ; Belleton, 66 ; Cameron, 72 ; 
 Moundsville, 89 ; Benwood, 93 (connects 
 by ferry with Central Ohio Division) ; 
 Wheeling, 97 (connects with Cleveland 
 & Pittsburg Railway). 
 
 Grafton, W. Va., has been de- 
 scribed. (See page 22.) 
 
 Fairmount, W. Ta. (23 miles), 
 capital of Marion County, is situated on 
 the western bank of the Monongahela 
 River, which is navigable for steamboats 
 from this point downward. A handsome 
 wire suspension-bridge across the river 
 connects the village with Palatine. 
 
 Moundsville, W. Va. (72 
 miles), is one of the two villages at the 
 point where Big and Little Grave Creeks 
 enter the Ohio River, the other being 
 Mizaletktown (see p. 88). The approach 
 to the Ohio at this point is very beautiful. 
 The line, emerging from the defile of Grave 
 Creek, passes straight over the " flats " 
 which border the river, and forming a vast 
 rolling plain, in the middle of which looms 
 up the "great Indian mound," 80 feet 
 high and 200 feet broad at its base. It 
 is between the two villages. The "flats " 
 embrace an area of some 4,000 acres, 
 about three-fourths of which Ue on the 
 Virginia, and the remaining fourth on the 
 Ohio side of the river. The soil is fertile 
 and well cultivated. 
 
 About three miles up the river from 
 Moundsville the " flats " terminate, and 
 the road passes for a mile along rocky 
 narrows washed by the river, after which 
 it runs over wide, rich, and beautiful bot- 
 torn-lands, all the way to Wheeling. 
 89 
 
The Springs Region.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [The Sfbinqs Region. 
 
 Benfvood, "W. Ta. (9S miles), 
 is the last station in West Yirginia, and 
 here connections are made by ferry with 
 the Oeniral Ohio Division, 
 
 'VTbeelingr, \¥. Va. (97 miles), 
 has been described in Route XTV. (see p. 
 89). Connections are made here with 
 the Cleveland & JPiUsbnrg Bailway. 
 
 THE SPRINGS REGIOIT. 
 
 As has already been stated, the two 
 chief points of departure to the Springs 
 Region of Virginia, and to many famous 
 objects of natural scenery in the neigh- 
 borhood, are Stavmton and LyncMmrg. It 
 will be seen, by reference to the map ac- 
 companying this chapter, that " these 
 points are extremities of a fork of rail- 
 roads, the Chesapeake & Ohio and the 
 Orange <& Alexandria Railways, dividing 
 from the main stem of travel at Charlottes- 
 ville; the real point of junction, however, 
 being 21 miles farther east, at Gordons- 
 ville, the cars of the Orange, Alexandria 
 & Lynchburg and the Chesapeake & 
 Ohio roads running on a double track 
 from GordonsviUe to Charlottesville ; and 
 it is this angle — one line running through 
 Staunton toward the Ohio, the other 
 through Lynchburg to Tennessee — ^which 
 measures the Springs Region and that 
 section of the great mountain belt of 
 Virginia most interesting in its displays 
 of scenery.* 
 
 Staunton is reached from the Iforth by 
 the great route of travel coming down the 
 Orange & Alexandria Railway from Wash- 
 ington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, 
 etc. ; from the South and Southwest, Lynch- 
 burg is reached by the great routes of 
 travel leading up to the Virginia & Ten- 
 nessee Railway from Knoxville, Chatta- 
 nooga, Memphis, New Orleans, Montgom- 
 ery, Mobile, etc. These routes are all de- 
 scribed in the present work, and may be 
 easily traced out on the general map of 
 the South which faces the title-page. 
 
 The greatest number of the Springs 
 are reached by stage connections with 
 points on the Chesapeake & Ohio Rail- 
 way between Staunton and White Sul- 
 phur Springs (see Route X.). Those 
 reached from Lynchburg, on the Virginia 
 
 *"The Tirginia Tourist." 
 Pollard. 
 
 90 
 
 By Edward A. 
 
 & Tennessee Railway (see RotriE XIII.), 
 however, are much visited, and have the 
 advantage of being situated in a mors 
 picturesque country than those north of 
 the road, 
 
 PEHrOIPAL OBJECTS OF INTBEEST. 
 
 By the SlaimUm, or Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Route, the tourist can go by stage to Au- 
 gusta Springs and Weyer's Cave. Prom 
 Goshen (32 miles farther) to the Natural 
 Bridge, Rockbridge Alum Springs, Rock- 
 bridge Baths, and Cold Sulphur Springs. 
 From Millboro' (8 miles farther) to Bath 
 Alum and Warm Springs. From Coving- 
 ton (29 miles farther) to Healing Springs 
 and Hot Springs. From Alleghany (16 
 miles farther) to Old Sweet and Red , 
 Sweet Springs. Prom the Greenbrier 
 White Sulphur Springs (6 miles farther 
 and 91 miles irom Staunton) to Blue Sul- 
 phur, Salt Sulphur, Red Sulphur Springs, 
 and numerous other points of interest, as 
 may be seen by the map. 
 
 JBy the Lynehburg, or Virginia & Tert- 
 nessee Route, we have in succession the 
 Alum Springs at New London, Coyner's, 
 the Alleghany, the Montgomery White 
 Sulphur, the Yellow Sulphur, and numer- 
 ous other Springs less noted. These all 
 lie along the line of the railroad, or, as in 
 the case of those places mentioned in the 
 preceding paragraph, are reached by 
 stage from points along the road. But 
 by this route of travel, besides the attrac- 
 tion to invalids of valuable medicinal wa- 
 ters; we have in the same direction, or 
 within parallels of short distances, the 
 celebrated Peaks of Otter, the Natural 
 Bridge, the Salt Pond, Bald Knob, Pun- 
 cheon Run Falls, Burke's Garden, etc. 
 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway Boute. 
 
 ' TABLE OF M8TAH0E8. MilM. 
 
 Staunton Augusta Bprmgs Stage, 12 
 
 " Weyer's Cfave " 17 
 
 " Goshen Eail, 82 
 
 Goslien Cold Sulphur Springs. .Stage, 1 
 
 " EockbridgeAlumSp's.. " 8 
 
 " Rockbridge Baths. " 9 
 
 " Lexington " 21 
 
 " Natural Bridge " 85 
 
 " MiUboro' Bail, 8 
 
 Millboro' BathAlum Stage, 10 
 
 " Warm Springs " 15 
 
 " Covington Bail, 29 
 
 Covington Hot Springs Stage, 18 
 
 " Healing Springs " 15 
 
 " Alleghany Station Bail, 16 
 
 Alleghany Old Sweet Stage, 9 
 
 M 
 
The Springs Region.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [The SpRiNoa Region. 
 
 Alleghany Red Sweet Stage, 8 
 
 " "White Sulpl). Springs.. EaU, 6 
 
 White Sulphur.Blue Sulphur Stage, 22 
 
 SaltSulphur " 26 
 
 " EedSulphur " 40 
 
 " Bed Sweet " 16 
 
 White Sulphur.Old Sweet Stage, 17 
 
 Hot Springs. 
 BeaUng Springs... 
 
 "Warm Springs 
 
 Bath Alum 
 
 Eockbridge Alum. . 
 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway Routes. 
 
 TAEtK OF DISTANCES. 
 
 Lynchburg Natural Bridge Canal-boat _ _. 
 
 Lynchbm-g Lexington Canal-boat 40 
 
 Lexington Natural Bridge Stage 14 
 
 Lynchburg. Forrest Depot EaU 11 
 
 Forrest Depot New London and Alum Springs Stage 4 
 
 Forrest Depot Liberty Bail 
 
 Liberty Peaks of Otter. Country road 
 
 Liberty Bonsack's (Coyner's Springs) Bail 
 
 Bonsack's Natural Bridge Stage 
 
 Bonsack^s Lexington Stage 
 
 Bonsack's Sweet Springs* Stage 
 
 Bonsack's 'SVhite Sulphur, etc Stage 
 
 Bonsack's Salem Eail 
 
 Salem Sweet Springs Stage 
 
 Salem White Sulphur, etc Stage 
 
 Salem Shawsville Eail 
 
 ShawsTille Alleghany Springs Stage 
 
 87 
 40 
 42 
 47 
 
 SG miles 
 
 14 
 12 
 22 
 80 
 42 
 47 
 64 
 13 
 86 
 63 
 17 
 * 
 
 Alleghany Springs Puncheon E'"un Falls Couutry road 8 
 
 Shawsville Montgomery White Sulphur Station Rail 6 
 
 Montgomery White. Christiansburg Eail 8 
 
 Christiansburg Tellow Sulphur Stage 4 
 
 Chairburg New Eiver White Sulphur Stage 24 
 
 Christiansburg Salt Pond Stage 82 
 
 .Stage.. 
 
 Christiansburg Bald Knob 
 
 Christiansburg Salt Sulphur 
 
 Christiansburg Sweet Springs 
 
 Christiansburg White Sulphur 
 
 Christiansburg Newbem 
 
 Newbem Red Sulphur 
 
 Newbern Salt Sulphur 
 
 Newbem White Sulphur 
 
 Newbern Glade Springs Station. 
 
 Glade Springs Station Saltville Branch rciilroad . . . 
 
 Saltville Jeffersonville Country road 18 
 
 Saltville Burke's Garden Country road 26 
 
 Glade Springs Station Bristol Eail 28 
 
 Bristol ■. Natural Tunnel Country road 42 
 
 Bristol Holston Springs Country road 28 
 
 40 
 
 Stage 48 
 
 Stage 65 
 
 Eail 19 
 
 Stage 85 
 
 Stage 62 
 
 Stage 77 
 
 Eail 70 
 
 HO'W TO MAKE THE TOUK OF THE 
 SPEINGS AND MOUNTAIN EEGION. 
 
 Our remarks on a previous page hare 
 indicated the two routes open to tourists 
 aiming to see tlie great objects of interest 
 in the mountain region, and to visit the 
 celebrated watering-places, which are with 
 many the main attractions of the country. 
 If the upper route from Charlottesville by 
 way of Staunton be preferred, a continu- 
 ous line of railway — the Chesapeake & 
 Ohio — leads to the "W"hite Sulphur 
 Springs, connecting, by lines of stages at 
 points on the route, with "Weyer's Cave, 
 
 * The Old Sweet and the Red Sweet are but 
 one mile apart. 
 
 the Natural Bridge, Lexington, and the 
 watering-places generally. If the lower 
 route be preferred, the tourist may pro- 
 ceed from Charlottesville to Lynchburg, 
 by the Orange, Alexandria & Lynchburg 
 Railway, and thence by the Virginia & 
 Tennessee Railway, which will conduct 
 him to the Peaks of Otter, the Montgom- 
 ery "White, and other springs — points 
 along the route connecting by stage with 
 the "White Sulphur and other watering- 
 places, and the surrounding localities of 
 interest. The latter of these two routes 
 is recommended by Mr. E. A. Pollard in 
 his interesting " Virginia Tourist." His 
 summary of the attractions on this route 
 is as follows. He recommends that the 
 91 
 
TnE Sfkings Reqioit.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [The Sfbimgs Regiok. 
 
 traveller should proceed by the Orange 
 & Alexandria Railway : 
 
 "First to Lynchburg. The Natural 
 Bridge and the Peaks of Otter may be 
 iaken as outlying attractions, each 
 reached in a day's journey. 
 
 "Thence to the Alleghany Springs, 
 doubly attractive for their medicinal wa- 
 ter and scenery ; in the latter catalogue. 
 Puncheon Run Falls and Fisher's View. 
 The Montgomery White Sulphur Springs 
 and the Yellow Sulphur Springs are near 
 by, and may be compassed in a ride of a 
 few hours. 
 
 " Farther to the southwest are three 
 ranges for the tourist, which may be 
 taken in order. From Bristol to the 
 Natural Tunnel (undoubtedly the greatest 
 wonder of Virginia). From Glade 
 Springs Station into and through Taze- 
 well County, an excursion into the Alps 
 of Virginia. From Christiansburg into 
 Giles County, taking in the scenery of 
 New River, Salt Pond, Stony Creek, and 
 Bald Knob. All these three ranges are 
 transverse to the Virginia & Tennessee 
 Railroad, the points of departure occur- 
 ring in the order named : Bristol, Glade 
 Springs, and Christiansburg. We may 
 substitute for the two latter, Wytheville 
 and Montgomery White Sulphur Springs. 
 
 " Returning to the rail, leave it at 
 Coyner's Springs: thence to Lexington, 
 Rockbridge Baths, Rockbridge Alum 
 Springs, etc. We are now in the Valley 
 of Virginia, and the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Railroad and stage-lines branching from 
 it give access in every direction. No 
 Bummer traveller in Virginia will omit 
 the Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs. 
 Thence, at the end of a day's journey, 
 and in the four quarters of the compass, 
 are spas in three counties: ]tfonroe, 
 Greenbrier, and Bath. Return east by 
 the thermal waters of Bath. 
 
 " From Staunton go to Weyer's Cave. 
 Thence back to Staunton and the Chesa- 
 peake & Ohio Railroad, striking the 
 avenue of continental travel at Charlottes- 
 ville, from which we may go north, south, 
 east or west, to our homos. 
 
 " The route described is, to some ex- 
 tent, on three sides of a triangle, making 
 its apex at Charlottesville. Beyond this 
 triangular plot there is, to be sure, much 
 in the State to attract the tourist ; but 
 92 
 
 he may content himself that within the 
 boundaries described he has compassed 
 what is most interesting in Virginia in 
 the measure of its twin attractions — 
 natural scenery and mineral springs. 
 
 " Such a tour as we have described 
 may be done in twenty days if sight-see- 
 ing is only concerned, and for an expense 
 of about one hundred and twenty-five 
 to one hundred and fifty dollars, consid- 
 ering the traveller in motion, or as stop- 
 ping only single days at the places 
 named. 
 
 " The charges at the Virginia watering 
 places are uniformly three dollars per 
 day and seventy dollars for the month, 
 but with one exception of excess, and 
 that is the Greenbrier White Sulphur 
 Springs, where the rates are four dollars 
 for the day, and for the month in pro- 
 portion. [The advertisement of the pro- 
 prietors of the White Sulphur Springs, 
 at the end of the " Tourist," fixes the 
 board per day at three dollars.] 
 
 " Horses may be hired in the country 
 for a dollar and a half a day. At Bris- 
 tol and at Liberty we got good mounts 
 at that rate. At the springs the charges 
 for horses and vehicles are higher, but 
 very moderate in comparison with the 
 liveries of the North. There was a stud 
 of very stylish horses at the Alleghany 
 Springs, which were hired for the saddle, 
 at one dollar for the first hour, and fifty 
 cents for the succeeding hours, or three 
 dollars for the whole day. Excellent 
 carriages, seating four, were hired at 
 five dollars a day. 
 
 " Let the tourist bring his fishing-rods, 
 and a gun to shoot deer. A common 
 fault at the springs, and which is perhaps 
 prevalent at all watering-places, is the 
 idle and dawdling life ; but the spas of 
 Virginia have this great and peculiar ad- 
 vantage — that instead of the visitor 
 being compelled to walk or ride on a 
 dusty thoroughfare, or hunt a paltry 
 stroll on the beach, he may lose himself 
 in a few moments in the neighboring 
 forest, where recreation may be sweet- 
 ened with perfect solitude, or exercise 
 freshened with the mental excitement 
 that makes it alike pleasant and profit- 
 able. 
 
 " One word to visitors from the North. 
 So far from apprehending any unpleasr , 
 
The Springs Begion.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [The Sfbings BsoiOif, 
 
 antness or any coldness of reception in 
 the summer resorts of Virginia, they 
 may be assured of a welcome much more 
 lively than what pecuniary interest ha- 
 bitually extends to its customers." 
 
 The route of travel here suggested is 
 certainly a highly interesting one. Visi- 
 tors cannot err in taking either route, 
 however, and wUl probably be guided in 
 their choice by private preferences, or 
 reasons rendering the one or the other 
 more in accordance with the objects, 
 social or sanitary, of their visit to the 
 region. 
 
 HOW TO TAKE THE WATERS. 
 
 The best time to visit the springs and 
 drink the waters is from 1st July to 
 September. A few words of advice to 
 those who visit them, as most do, for the 
 benefit of their health, contributed by 
 one who is qualified to give advice in 
 such matters, may not be out of place 
 here : " When the patient, under proper 
 advice, has selected and arrived at the 
 spring where he expects relief, there are 
 some observances so essential to his suc- 
 cess, that, in a work professing in some 
 degree to serve as his guide, it would be 
 improper to omit calling attention to 
 them. If he has directions from his 
 family physician, the first question that 
 suggests itself is. Is he in the precise 
 condition in which that physician saw 
 him ? If he be not, what change has 
 taken place, and what new symptoms 
 have occurred ? It will readily be under- 
 stood that, if the journey has been te- 
 dious and laborious, as in visits from the 
 distant States must be the case, the in- 
 valid may have suffered from a change 
 pf water, he may be in a state of over- 
 excitement, or exhaustion, from want of 
 sleep, fatigue, or want of accustomed 
 comforts. He may, from exposure, have 
 taken cold and be in the incipient stage 
 of catarrhal fever. His liver may have 
 been deranged by the journey. His ar- 
 terial and nervous system may be abnor- 
 mally excited. He may have headache, 
 furred tongue, or he may be constipated, 
 or in other respects, ' oiU of sorts,' and so 
 on, ad nauseam." In all such cases, and 
 they are of course numerous, the only 
 relief to be hoped for is by sending the 
 patient to the water adapted to his dis- 
 
 ease. " Whether he employ a physician 
 or not, let us say to the invalid : ' Be in 
 slow haste.' Survey the whole ground 
 according to the suggestions we have 
 laid before you. Do not gulp down 
 large quantities of water to expedite a 
 cure. It would be about as wise as the 
 conduct of a man who eats to repletion, 
 in order to get the worth of his money, 
 or as that of the old negro who swal- 
 lowed down all the physic left by his 
 master, lest it should go to waste. Be 
 moderate in all things. Take the water 
 so as to insure its gradual diffusion 
 through your system, that you may ob- 
 tain that invisible and silent alteraiive 
 action which is eventually to eradicate 
 your disease. Go to work coolly, calm- 
 ly, and systematically, and you will own 
 the benefit of the advice." "Follow, as 
 near as circumstances will permit, the 
 following course of treatment : If the 
 weather and other circumstances admit, 
 rise about 6, throw your cloak on your 
 shoulders, visit the Spring, take a small- 
 sized tumbler of water, move about in a 
 brisk walk ; drink again at 6J-, continu- 
 ing moderate exercise — again at 1; 
 breakfast about 8, but let it be moderate 
 and of suitable quality. In most cases, 
 a nice tender mutton-chop, or a fresh 
 soft-boiled egg, or venison, or beef-steak, 
 is admissible. Eat stale bread, or corn 
 mush, or hominy — the latter a delightful 
 article to be found at some of the 
 Springs — a cup of black tea, not strong, 
 or a glass of vnskimmed milk. If you 
 value your health less than the gratifica- 
 tion of your palate and stomach, you can 
 indulge in buckwheat cakes, floating in 
 butter, omelets of stale eggs, strong cof- 
 fee, half-baked, pastry, rich pates, hot 
 bread, and such like, and take the con- 
 sequences. After breakfast, walk, ride, 
 or drive till near noon. Eat no luncheon 
 at noon, but take a glass of water, and 
 walk in the shade. Drink again at 12J 
 — again at 1. Dine about 2. Eat for 
 nourishment, and not for luxury. Avoid 
 bad potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, 
 onions, salt meat of every description, 
 pastry, fruits, either cooked or in their 
 natural state. Though innocent else- 
 where, they are not usually so at mineral 
 waters. Amuse yourself in social inter- 
 course or gentle exercise until 6, take a 
 03 
 
White Sulphur SPBiNas.] SOUTHERN TOUR. [White Sulphue Speikgs. 
 
 glass of water — walk or ride until sup- 
 per — take a cup of black tea or a glass 
 of milk and a cracker." Avoid as much 
 as possible all excitement and late hours. 
 
 White Sulphub Springs. — We begin 
 our notices of the famous mineral springs 
 of Virginia with that which has attained 
 the greatest celebrity, and is the chief 
 centre of attraction to the crowds of 
 summer tourists who, in search of health 
 or recreation, flock to the mountains. 
 
 The Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs 
 are reached by the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Railway, connecting with the Orange, 
 Alexandria & Lynchburg — the great 
 route for northern travellers, and by the 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway, from nu- 
 merous points on which lines of stages 
 transport the southern visitor to the 
 famous watering-place. Lines of stages 
 also connect the White Sulphur with all 
 the prominent springs of the region, 
 which may thus be conveniently visited 
 in turn. The White Sulphur Springs are 
 situated on Howard's Creek in Green- 
 brier County, directly on the edge of the 
 Great Western Valley, and near the base 
 of the Alleghany range of mountains, 
 which rise at all points in picturesque 
 and winning beauty. Kate's Mountain, 
 which recalls some heroic exploits of an 
 Indian maiden of long ago, is one fine point 
 in the scene, southward ; while the Green- 
 brier Hills lie two miles away, toward the 
 west, and the lofty Alleghany towers up 
 majestically on the north and east. The 
 Hot Spring is 38 miles distant, on the 
 north ; the Sweet Spring, lY miles to the 
 eastward ; the Salt and the Red Springs, 
 24 and • 41 miles, respectively, on the 
 south; and the Blue Spring, 22 miles 
 away, on the west. The vicinity of the 
 White Sulphur is rich in natural scenery. 
 The locality itself is very beautiful. Fifty 
 acres, perhaps, are occupied with lawns 
 and walks, and the cabins and cottages 
 of the guests, built in rows around the 
 public apartments, the dining-room, the 
 ballroom, etc., give the place quite a 
 merry, happy, village air. There is Ala- 
 bama Row, Louisiana, Paradise, Balti- 
 more, and Virginia Bows, Georgia, Wolf, 
 and Bachelor's Rows, Broadway, the Col- 
 onnade, Virginia Lawn, the Spring, and 
 other specialties. The cottages are built 
 of wood, brick, and of logs, one story 
 04 
 
 high ; and, altogether, the social arrange- 
 ment and spirit here, as at all the sur- 
 rounding springs, have a peasant, quiet, 
 home sentiment, much more pleasing to 
 some than the metropolitan temper of 
 more accessible and more thronged re- 
 sorts. It is said that the site of these 
 springs was once the favorite hunting- 
 ground of the Shawnees, a tradition sup- 
 ported by the remains found in various 
 parts of the valley, in the shape of im- 
 plements of the chase and ancient graves. 
 It is not known precisely at what period 
 the Spring was discovered. Though the 
 Indians undoubtedly knew its virtues, 
 there is no record of its being used by 
 the whites until 1778. Log-cabins were 
 first erected on the spot in l'784-'86, and 
 the place began to assume something of 
 its present aspect about 1820. Since 
 then it has been yearly improved, until it 
 is capable of pleasantly housing some 
 1,600 guests. The spring bubbles up 
 from the earth in the lowest part of the 
 valley, and is covered by a pavilion, 
 formed of twelve Ionic columns, support- 
 ing a dome, crowned by a statue of 
 Hygeia. The Spring is at an elevation 
 of 2,000 feet above tide-water. Its tem- 
 perature is 62° Fahr. and is uniform 
 through all seasons. Its average yield is 
 about thirty gallons per minute, and the 
 supply is neither diminished in dry 
 weather, nor increased by the longest 
 rains. 
 
 The White Sulphur water was ana- 
 lyzed in 1842, by Prof. Hayes of Boston, 
 with the following results : 
 
 " 60,000 grains (about seven pints) of 
 the water contain, in solution, 3.633 
 water-grain measures of gaseous matter, 
 or about 1.14 of its volume, consisting 
 of— 
 
 Nitrogen gas 1.018 
 
 Oxygen gas 103 
 
 Carbonic acid 2.444 
 
 Hydro-Balpliuric acid 0138 
 
 8.683 
 
 " One gallon, or 237 cubic inches of 
 the water, contains 16.739-1000 cubic 
 inches of gas, having the proportion of— 
 
 Nitrogen gas 4.680 
 
 Oxygen gas 498 
 
 Carbonic acid U.290 
 
 Hydro-sulphuric acid 271 
 
 01.789 
 
■White Sclpdur Sprinqs..] 
 
 TIRGINIA. 
 
 [White SoLPncR Sprinos. 
 
 " 50,000 grains of this water contain 
 115.735.1000 grains of saline matter con- 
 sisting of — 
 
 Sulphate of lime 67.163 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia SO.d&l 
 
 Chloride of ma^esium 859 
 
 Carbonate of lime 6.060 
 
 Organic matter (dried at 212" F.) 8.T40 
 
 Carbonic acid 4.634 
 
 Silicates (silica 1.34, potash .18, Boda .66, 
 and a trace of oxyd iron) 2.960 
 
 il5J35" 
 
 On the subject of the use of the water, 
 either in its fresh state or when the gases 
 have escaped. Dr. Moorman, a physician 
 of high character, and author of a work 
 on the "Virginia Springs, has the following 
 remarks : 
 
 " For some patients^ the White Sulphur 
 as it flows from the spring is too stimu- 
 lating, and hence, before the nonstimu- 
 lating method of using it was inti^oduced, 
 many such patients left the spring either 
 without giTing the water a trial, or actu- 
 ally rendered worse by its stimulating in- 
 fluence. 
 
 " In cases of nervous persons, and es- 
 pecially in those whose brain is prone to 
 undue excitement, we have often found it 
 necessary, either by freezing or healing 
 the water, to throw off its gas completely 
 before it could be tolerated by the sys- 
 tem ; and some of the happiest resiUts 
 we have ever witnessed from the use of 
 the water have been achieved by it after 
 being thus prepared. 
 
 " Our object in prescribing White Sul- 
 phur has been to pursue a discriminating 
 or pathological practice. We regard it as 
 an active and potent medicine, and believe 
 that, like all such medicines, it should be 
 used with a wise reference to the nature 
 of the case and the state of the system. 
 We must not be understood as advancing 
 the opinion that this water is always to he 
 preferred after the escape of its gas. We 
 entertain no such opinion ; on the con- 
 trary, for ^ large cl^s of visitors we 
 think it preferable that they should avail 
 themselves of the use of the water either 
 at, or recently removed from, the fountain, 
 and as it naturally abounds in its gases." 
 
 The value of the water of these cele- 
 brated springs seems, according to the 
 best authorities, to be derived from its 
 alterative effects, and the gentle q.nd 
 
 gradual manner in which the blood is 
 purified, and the constitution built up. 
 The effect of a free use of the waters re- 
 sembles in a striking manner that pro- 
 duced by mercury, without any of the 
 disagreeable concomitants of the employ- 
 ment of that medicine. The visitor, en- 
 feebled by the confinement and heat of 
 city life, rarely fails to derive prompt and 
 lasting benefit from the bath here, and 
 to find his physical strength, together 
 with his cheerfulne.'ss and capacity for 
 enjoyment, increased in the most won- 
 derful manner. 
 
 The social attractions of the White 
 Sulphur Springs are so familiar to the 
 public as scarcely to require more than a 
 passing allusion in this place. With the 
 approach of summer, thousands of city 
 residents and others, from New Orleans 
 to Boston, begiu to move toward the wa- 
 tering-places of the Virginia mountains, 
 where cool and delicious breezes infuse 
 new life into the enervated frames ; and 
 of this great crowd, composed of the 
 beauty, the grace, and the distinction of 
 the entire country, the famous " White 
 Sulphur" draws, sooner or later in the 
 season, a proportion equal, probably, to 
 that of all the rest of the springs com- 
 bined. The consequence is, that the vis- 
 itor to the White Sulphur may count 
 upon meeting some of the most nota- 
 ble and agreeable people of the entire 
 country ; and especially with a " full del- 
 egation " from South Carolina, Georgia, 
 Florida, and the Gulf States generally, 
 whose inhabitants, flying from the yel- 
 low-fever, seek health and enjoyment in 
 a more northern latitude. Every por- 
 tion of the country is thus represented, 
 and every class — ^the dark beauty of the 
 north, and the cool, collected " business 
 man " of that section, are seen side by 
 side with the fair-haired Creole, and the 
 impulsive planter. Judges, generals, colo- 
 nels, senators, governors, leading journal- 
 ists, presidents of railways, and " promi- 
 nent people " generally all meet here ; 
 and the discussion of important public 
 affairs is mingled with the pursuit of 
 pleasure and the charms of social inter- 
 course and general enjoyment. The 
 days are agreeably diversified by drink- 
 ing the waters, bathing, rides amid the 
 beautiful scenery of the surrounding 
 95 
 
Old Swebt Springs.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Sam Sulphur SpRiNog, 
 
 country, and contemplation of the varie- 
 gated crowds frequenting the promenade. 
 At night, brilliant lights, fffU-dress, mu- 
 sic, and dancing make the place a spec- 
 tacle full of dazzling attraction. It is 
 optional with the visitor whether he shall 
 or shall not take part in this gay carni- 
 val of pleasure. The invalid may, at his 
 pleasure, simply look on or participate. 
 If he prefers quiet, he may remain in his 
 private apartments. But it is the pleas- 
 ure-seeker and Bummer-tourist who en- 
 joy, perhaps, most fully, the diversified 
 scenes and attractions of the spot. To 
 such, the White Sulphur S|)rings afford 
 unending amusement, and thousands of 
 the class here referred to seek this wa- 
 tering-place, with the advent of every 
 summer, as the headquarters of health 
 and enjoyment. 
 
 The " Old Sweet Springs " are sit- 
 uated in Munroe County, 11 miles south- 
 east of the White Sulphur, with which 
 they connect by » line of stages, also 
 with points on the Virginia & Tennes- 
 see Railway. This watering-place is 
 said to be the oldest in Virginia, and to 
 have been frequented for its medicinal 
 properties as early as lYBi. Visitors 
 seeking the White Sulphur for the bene- 
 fit of their health are generally advised 
 by physicians familiar with the effect of 
 the waters to pass from the White Sul- 
 phur to the " Old Sweet," whose Stimu- 
 lating and invigorating properties are be- 
 lieved to perfect the advantages derived 
 from the former water, and infuse per- 
 manent health into the system. The wa- 
 ter is said to derive its peculiar briskness 
 from the carbonic acid which predomi- 
 nates in it, and is prescribed for all the 
 varieties of dyspepsia, for diarrhoea, dys- 
 entery, and general disorder of the sys- 
 tem. It is said to act as an excellent 
 tonic in cases of hysteria, passive haemor- 
 rhage, dropsy, rheumatism, neuralgia, and 
 some of the diseases of women. Bishop 
 Madison, President of William and Mary 
 College, subjected the water to analysis, 
 from a conviction of its great value, as 
 far back as ITW, and the springs have 
 since preserved a high reputation. The 
 accommodations and surroundiags are 
 agreeable and attractive. The springs 
 are situated in a lovely valley, between 
 the Alleghany Mountain, which bounds 
 96 
 
 the northern prospect, and the Sweet 
 Springs Mountain, rising on the south. 
 The hotel is 260 feet long, with a dining- 
 hall of 160 feet. 
 
 There are spacious and excellent baths 
 here for ladies and gentlemen — each 60 
 by SO feet, and from 4 to 6 feet in depth, 
 as visitors may prefer. To persons in 
 good health the bath is stimulating and 
 invigorating, producing an agreeable glow, 
 and a sensation of strength and cheerful- 
 ness. 
 
 The Red Sweet Springs are situated 
 one mile from the "Old Sweet," and 
 eight miles from Alleghany Station on the 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, with which 
 •they connect .by stages. The waters are 
 chalybeate and tonic, and the accommo- 
 dations for visitors spacious. The tem- 
 perature of the water varies from 15° to 
 79° Fahr., and the three springs dis- 
 charge 260 gallons per minute. In con- 
 nection with the springs is a valuable 
 farm which supplies the table. 
 
 The Salt Sulphur Springs connect by 
 stages with Alleghany, White Sulphur, 
 etc., on the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, 
 and Christiansburg, etc., on the Vir^nia 
 & Tennessee Railway. The watering-place 
 is near tlnion, the county-seat of Monroe, 
 about 24 miles from the White Sulphur, 
 and is completely shut in by mountains 
 — Swope's Mountain, Peters' Mountain, 
 and the Alleghany — the place being near 
 the eastern base of the first-named. These 
 springs were discovered in 1805 by Mr 
 Irwin Benson while boring for salt water, 
 which he was induced to hope for from 
 the fact that the spot had been a well- 
 known "lick" for deer and buffalo. The 
 hotel and cottages have accommodations 
 for about 400 guests. There are three 
 springs, one of which is styled the " Io- 
 dine." The character and effects of the 
 water are thus described by Dr. Miitter, 
 formerly resident physician : 
 
 " Its odor is very like that of a ' tol- 
 erable egg,' and may, in certain states 
 of the atmosphere, be perceived at some 
 distance from the spring, and in taste it 
 is cousin-german to a strong solution of 
 epsom salts and iuagnesia. In a short 
 time, however, strange to say, these prop- 
 erties are either not observed, or become, 
 on the other hand, attractive. Indeed, 
 there is hardly an instance of an indi- 
 
Red StJLPHua Springs.] 
 
 VIRGINU. 
 
 [Blue Solphtor Speings. 
 
 vidual retaining his original repugnance 
 to them longer than three or four days, 
 and some there are who become so ex- 
 cessively fond of the water, as to give it 
 the preference over any other liquids. 
 Like most of the sulphurs, this water is 
 perfectly transparent, and deposits a 
 whitish sediment composed of its vari- 
 ous saline ingredients, mingled with sul- 
 phur. It is, also, for the most part, pla- 
 cid ; occasionally, however, it is disturbed 
 by a bubble of gas, which steals slowly 
 to the surface, where it either explodes 
 with a timid and dimpling smack, or is 
 eagerly caught up by some care-yrorn 
 and world-weary invalid as a gem from 
 the treasures of Ilygeia." 
 
 Dr. Miitter, who discourses in this elo- 
 quent manner of the Salt Sulphur water, 
 recommends it for chronic affections of 
 the brain ; for chronic diseases of the 
 bowels, kidneys, spleen, and bladder ; 
 and for neuralgia, and the various nerv- 
 ous diseases. 
 
 The Ked Sulphur Springs, in the south- 
 ern portion of Monroe County, are 42 miles 
 below the White Sulphur, 17 from the 
 Salt, 32 from the Blue, and 39 from the 
 Sweet. They connect with Chesapeake 
 & Ohio Railway by stage to White Sul- 
 phur, and with Virginia & Tennessee Rail- 
 way by stage to Newbem. The approach 
 to these Springs is beautifully romantic 
 and picturesque. Wending his way around 
 a high mountain, the weary traveller is 
 for a moment charmed out of his fa- 
 tigue by the sudden view of his resting- 
 place, some hundreds of feet immediately 
 beneath him. Continuing the circuitous 
 descent, he at length reaches a, ravine, 
 which conducts him, after a few rugged 
 steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, 
 surrounded on all sides by lofty moun- 
 tains. The south end of this enchanting 
 vale, which is the widest portion of it, is 
 about two hundred feet in width. Its 
 course is nearly north for about one hun- 
 dred and fifty yards, when it begins 
 gradually to contract, and changes its di- 
 rection to the northwest and west, until 
 it terminates in a narrow point. This 
 beautifully secluded Tempe is the chosen 
 site of the village. The northwest por- 
 tion is occupied by stables, carriage- 
 houses, and shops of various sorts ; the 
 Bouthem portion, just at the base of the 
 6 
 
 east and west mountains, is that upon 
 which stand the various edifices for the 
 accommodation of visitors. These build- 
 ings are spacious and conveniently ar- 
 ranged, whUe the promenades, which are 
 neatly enclosed by a white railing, are 
 beautifully embellished, and shaded from 
 the mid-day sun by large, umbrageous 
 sugar-maples. The Spring is situated at 
 the southwest point of the valley, and 
 the water is collected into two white mar- 
 ble fountains, over which is thrown a 
 substantial cover. These Springs have 
 been known and distinguished as a wa- 
 tering-place for nearly 60 years. The 
 improvements at the place are extensive 
 and well-designed, combining elegance 
 with comfort, and are sufficient for the 
 accommodation of 350 persons. The wa- 
 ter of the spring is clear and cool, its 
 temperature being 54° Fahr. It is 
 strongly charged with sulphuretted hy- 
 drogen gas, and contains portions of sev- 
 eral neutral salts. Its effects are stated 
 to be directly sedative, and indirectly 
 tonic, alterative, diuretic, and diapho- 
 retic ; and the water is used with ad- 
 vantage in cases of scrofula, jaundice, 
 chronic dysentery and diarrhoea, dyspep- 
 sia, diseases of the uterus, and consump- 
 tion. The waters were at one time re- 
 garded as a specific against consumption, 
 and many persons afflicted with that ter- 
 I'ible complaint visited it under the im- 
 pression that they had at last discovered 
 the means of cure. This did not prove 
 to be the fact, though certain cases of 
 pulmonary irritation are said to have 
 been completely cured. A physician 
 speaks thus of the water : " I do not 
 wish to be understood as stating that the 
 water of the Red Sulphur will cure con- 
 firmed phthisis, or tuberculous consump- 
 tion ; but I believe we are very often 
 mistaken in supposing a case of pulmo- 
 nary irritation more desperate and hope- 
 less than it really is ; and I believe that, 
 in most cases, if this Spring is resorted 
 to early, and the clothing and diet and 
 exercise duly attended to, its waters will 
 be found a most powerful adjunct and as- 
 sistant in the management of these hith- 
 erto unmanageable cases." 
 
 The Blue Sulphur Springs are situ- 
 ated in Greenbrier County, 22 miles from 
 the White Sulphur, with which thev eon- 
 97 
 
Bute Sitlphur Spbinqs.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOtJE. 
 
 [■Wabm Speinos. 
 
 nect by, stages. The situation is one of 
 great -beauty and the accommodations 
 are commodious and handsome, the hotel 
 being a briolc edifice 180 feet in length, 
 and a temple rising above the spring, in 
 the midst of a beautiful lawn. The water 
 is said to be valuable in chronic hepatitis, 
 jaundice, chronic irritation of the kid- 
 neys and bladder, and in diseases of the 
 skin.' Medicated and vapor baths are 
 provided. The turnpike to Guyandotte 
 connects the White with the Blue Sul- 
 phur. 
 
 The Warm Springs, the Hot Spnngt, 
 the Balh Alum, and the Sealing Springs, 
 are grouped together, a short distance 
 north of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, 
 and about a day's travel from and north- 
 east of the White Sulphur. These water- 
 ing places may be reached by stages from 
 Covington ori Millboro' stations, on the 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway; and the 
 route either way affords the visitor a view 
 of magnificent scenery. The route from 
 Covington passes in view of the Cataract 
 OP THE Falling Springs, situated at the 
 lower end of the beautiful Warm Springs 
 Valley, extended before the traveUer as 
 he journeys along the mountain road. 
 The stream which forms this cascade rises 
 in the Warm Springs Mountain, and a 
 little less than one mile from its source 
 falls over a rock of 200 feet into the 
 valley below. The sheet of water is par- 
 tially broken in two or three places, and 
 the moss-covered rocks give it the effect 
 of a number of beautiful falls, until it 
 leaps into the chasm beneath, covering 
 grass and fern with spray shining like 
 diamonds. The visitor may pass beneath 
 the sheet of water and the rock, or, 
 standing outside, enjoy the brilliant rain- 
 bows crowning the cascade. 
 
 By the other route the traveller will be 
 charmed by the magnificent view from 
 the top of the Warm Spring Mountain, 
 which he crosses at an elevaition of nearly 
 1,500 feet above its base, and 2,250 
 above the level of the sea. He has also 
 the opportunity of seeing the famous 
 Blowing Cave. This is situated near the 
 banks of the Cow Pasture River, and is 
 thus described by President Jefferson: 
 "It is on the side of a hill, is of about 
 100 feet diameter, and emits constantly 
 a current of air, of such force as to keep 
 98 
 
 the weeds prostrate to the distance of 
 twenty yards before it. This current is 
 strongest in dry, frosty weather, and in 
 long spells of rain, weakest. Regular in- 
 spirations and expirations of air by 
 cavern and fissures have been probably 
 enough accounted for by supposing them 
 combined with intermitting fountains, as 
 they must of course inhale air while their 
 reservoirs are emptying themselves^ and 
 again emit while they are filling. But a 
 constant issue of air, only varying in its 
 force as the weather is dryer or damper, 
 wiU require a new hypothesis." It is said 
 that Mr. Jefferson was mistaken, how- 
 ever, in supposing that the issue of air 
 was continuous, as observation has shown 
 that at times there was no perceptible 
 current from the cave. At other times 
 the air comes out with great force, and a 
 handkerchief let go in front of the mouth 
 is reported to have been blown 30 or 40 
 feet. The cavern has not been explored, 
 but dogs entering it have found their 
 way out by some other issue. On the 
 same stream is the Flowing and Ebbing 
 Spring. 
 
 On the summit of the Warm Spring 
 Mountain is a spot called " Flat Rock," 
 at an elevation of 2,400 feet above the 
 level of the sea ; and from this point the 
 visitor may obtain a superb view of the 
 long mountain-ranges, extending as far as 
 the eye can see " like a dark blue sea of 
 giant billows, instantly stricken solid by 
 nature's magic wand." 
 
 The Warm Springs, which give their 
 name to the beautiful valley and the 
 mountain range, are situated in Bath 
 County, 15 miles from Millboro' on the 
 Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, with which 
 they connect by a line of stages. The 
 tradition respecting the discovery of 
 these springs is that a party of Indians, 
 while hunting, spent a night in the valley, 
 and one of them having tried the bath 
 was so delighted with its warmth as to 
 remain in it throughout the night. The 
 consequence was that he was so much in- 
 vigorated as to scale the neighboring 
 mounta,in on the next day long before his 
 companions.* As the country became set- 
 tled, the fame of the waters gradually ex- 
 tended, and visitors from the lowland erect- 
 
 * Howo'8 "Tir^nia Collections," p. 1:5. 
 
Warm Springs.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Bath Alum Speinos. 
 
 ed rude huts, which for a long time were 
 the only accommodations at the place. 
 The large bath is an octagon, 38 feet in 
 diameter, and in depth five feet, but can 
 be raised to six feet; its area is 1,163.77 
 feet. The average temperature of the 
 bath is 98° Fahr. The water is very 
 abundant, about 6,000 gallons per minute. 
 The gas which arises in the bath consists 
 of nitrogen, with small quantities of sul- 
 phuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid. 
 By analysis the water contains sulphuric, 
 fcarbonic, silicic, and organic acids as the 
 first bases, and potash, ammonia, lime, 
 magnesia, protoxide of iron, and alumina 
 as the second bases. The diseases for 
 which these baths are beneficial are gout, 
 chronic rheumatism, swellings of the 
 joints and glands, paralysis, chronic cu- 
 taneous diseases and calculous disorders. 
 The best times for bathing are in the 
 morning before breakfast, and on an emp- 
 ty stomach before dinner ; to bathe twice 
 a day, and remain in the water from 
 twelve to twenty minutes each time. The 
 waters of the Warm Springs are famous 
 for the tone and vigor they impart to the 
 system. They are found to retain a con- 
 siderable portion of their usefiil qualities 
 when bottled in the spring, and then 
 cooled by immersion in ice water — ^a plan 
 adopted by those who have a repugnance 
 to the use of water of so high a tempera- 
 ture — viz., 98° Fahr. 
 
 These springs are at present owned by 
 a company who have erected a fine hotel 
 for the accommodation of visitors. 
 
 The Hot Springs are 5 miles south of 
 the Warm Springs, and 18 from Coving- 
 ton on the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, 
 with which they connect by stages. These 
 are said to be the hottest baths in the 
 world, the temperature reaching 110° 
 Fahrenheit. There are nine springs, and 
 nine baths attached, all in the grounds 
 of the hotel. The most marked effect 
 of the free use of these waters is in cases 
 of rheumatism and torpid liver, which 
 are promptly and remarkably relieved: 
 — " It is said to be a not uncommon spec- 
 tacle for those who have with difficulty 
 travelled to the Hot Springs baths, crip- 
 pled by rheumatism of long standing, to 
 throw away their crutches after a few 
 days' experience of the hot spout." 
 
 The effect of the water is strongly stim- 
 
 ulating, though the immediate reaction 
 is a sensation of exhaustion and languor, 
 as with thermal baths generally. The 
 value of the baths is " in the fact that 
 the whole epidermis is deterged, the pores 
 opened, the skin powerfully exercised, 
 and the mineral qualities of the water 
 are absorbed into the blood." 
 
 The Healing Springs are situated 
 about three miles from the Hot Springs, 
 and connect with the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Railway at Covington, 16 miles by stages. 
 The scenery around this watering-place is 
 extremely agreeable ; there is a fine cas- 
 cade near, and the Spring's buildings 
 make a charming little villa shining 
 pleasantly through the green trees." The 
 waters of this spring are stated to be al- 
 most identical in their chemical analysis 
 with the famous Schlagenbad and Ems 
 waters of Germany. Dr. Burke says : 
 " As to the temperature of this water, it 
 stands alone in the springs region on the 
 confines of the cold and warm. It is the 
 most delightful bath that can be imag- 
 ined. It is the only water I have met 
 with of a temperature that may be de- 
 nominated tepid, and therefore possesses 
 advantages of no ordinary character. 
 With the least possible shock to the sys- 
 tem, it gradually subtracts from it its 
 superabundant caloric. The temperature 
 is uniformly 84° Fahr., and the water is 
 regarded as highly beneficial in cases of 
 scrofula, chronic thrush, obstinate cases 
 of cutaneous disease, neuralgia, rheuma- 
 tism, ulcers of the lower limbs of long 
 standing, and dyspepsia, in some 'hope- 
 less cases ' of which it is said to have 
 worked cures." 
 
 The Bath Alum Springs are near the 
 eastern base of the Warm Springs Moun- 
 tain, 5 miles from the Warm Springs, and 
 10 from Millboro', on the Chesapeake & 
 Ohio Railway, with which they connect 
 by stages. The waters issue from a slate- 
 stone cliff, and are received into small 
 reservoirs. The springs differ — one of 
 them being a strong chalybeate, with but 
 little alum ; another, a milder chalybeate, 
 with more alumina ; while the others are 
 alum of different strength, with traces of 
 iron. The waters are decidedly tonic and 
 astringent, and are recommended for 
 scrofula, dyspepsia, eruptive affections, 
 hepatic derangement, chronic diarrhoea, 
 99 
 
Rockbridge Alto Speings.] SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Natdpal Bbidge. 
 
 nervous debility, and in various uterine 
 diseases. 
 
 The thermal baths of Bath County, 
 here grouped together, are unrivalled by 
 any others yet discovered, either in Europe 
 or America. As has been seen, they are 
 ill close together, and the visitor may 
 pass from one to another in an hour, 
 through magnificent scenery. 
 
 The Rockbridge Alum Springs are 
 situated in Rockbridge County, 8 miles 
 from the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, with 
 which they connect by stage at Goshen. 
 These springs, like those of Bath County, 
 are only about 24 hours from New Tork, 
 and consist of five fountains issuing from 
 beneath irregular slate-stone arches. The 
 hotel and cottages are of brick, and will 
 accommodate about 800 visitors. The 
 lawn, surroundings, and neighboring scen- 
 ery are extremely beautiful, and the 
 waters are highly prized by invalids af- 
 flicted with chronic ailments — dyspepsia, 
 diarrhoea, scrofula, gastric irritation, and 
 diseases of the skin. Dr. Cartwright of 
 New Orleans, a high authority, says of 
 this water: "I know of np water, in 
 Europe or America, so rich in medicinal 
 substances as that of the Rockbridge 
 Springs. My attention was first attracted 
 to it some fifteen years ago by observing 
 that the sojourners at the Rockbridge 
 Springs were generally composed of in- 
 valids from Virginia, while those at other 
 Springs were mostly from distant parts 
 of the Union, more in search of pleasure 
 than health. Most of these other springs 
 in the Virginia mountains have deserved- 
 ly high reputation for the efBcacy of their 
 water in a variety of chronic ailments ; 
 but I am satisfied that the Rockbridge 
 Springs have not yet attained that wide 
 celebrity which they deserve, from the 
 circumstance of their being regarded as 
 merely alum springs, instead of being 
 seen in their true light as the richest of 
 all that class of mineral springs known 
 as the acidukms ferrugin<ms~-3. class of 
 mineral waters to which the most famous 
 springs of the world belong," From this 
 it would appear that "Alum springs" is 
 a misnomer. A Southern physician says 
 of this water, that "it has furnished an 
 undoubted cure for scrofula (king's evil), 
 a disease that has so long fatigued and 
 baffled the multiplied resources of med- 1 
 100 
 
 ical science." From the efficacy of these 
 waters in purifying tihe blood, they are 
 invaluable in the cure of the whole class 
 of diseases of the skin, and all in- 
 dolent sores and ulcers, which rapidly 
 begin to grow inflamed and to discharge 
 freely. They also' restore the appetite, 
 promote digestion, and correct acidity of 
 the stomach. 
 
 The same ingredients are said to be 
 found in the German and English waters 
 of Tumbridge, Harrowgate, Aix-la^Cha- 
 pelle, Passy, and Garonne. 
 
 The Rockbridge Bates are situated in 
 Rockbridge County, near the Springs 
 just named, and connect with the Chesa- 
 peake & Ohio Railway at Goshen, nine 
 miles, by stages. The Springs are within 
 a few feet of the banks of North River, 
 and are surrounded by picturesque scen- 
 ery. ( The waters are impregnated with 
 iron, and are strongly charged with car- 
 bonic acid gas. As a, tonic .bath — 
 adapted to nervous diseases, general de- 
 bility, especially after the use of altera- 
 tive mineral waters, and that comprehen- 
 sive class of cases found to be so essen- 
 tially benefited by tonic bathing-r-these 
 baths will be found highly ejfioacious, 
 and are destined to be a favorite resort 
 for a large class of invalids. 
 
 The bath is 5 feet in depth, and 40 
 by 20 feet in length and width. There 
 are accommodations at present for about 
 200 visitors. 
 
 Within two milesof thebathsis astrong 
 sulphur spring in an islet in North River, 
 the cup or basin of rock which holds the 
 mineral spring rising just in the middle 
 of the stream of fresh water, and from 
 depths below its channel. It is a bit of 
 a curiosity, and is visited for its medici- 
 nal effects in addition to those of the baths, 
 
 The Natural Bridge and Weter's 
 Cave. These two remarkable natural 
 curiosities are in the region just passed 
 under review, and may appropriately be 
 noticed in this place, as within striking 
 distance for travellers over the Chesa- 
 peake & Ohio Railway. 
 
 The Natural Bridge is in Rockbridge 
 County, and connects with Lexington, 14 
 miles by stage, with Lynchburg, 36 miles 
 by eanal-boat, and with Bonsack's on the 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway, 30 miles 
 
Natural Bridge.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Natural Bridge. 
 
 by stage. This wonderful structure spans 
 the mountaia chasm ia which flows the 
 little stream called Cedar Creek, across 
 the top of which, from brink to brink, 
 there extends an enormous rocky stra- 
 tum, moulded into a graceful arch. The 
 bed of Cedar Creek is more than two 
 hundred feet below the surface of the 
 plain, and the sides of the enormous 
 chasm, at the bottom of which the water 
 flows, are composed of solid rock, main- 
 taining a position almost perpendicular. 
 These adamantine walls do not seem to 
 bs water-worn, but suggest the idea of 
 an enormous cavern that in remote ages 
 may have been covered for miles by the 
 continuation of that stratum of which all 
 that now remains is the arch of the Nat- 
 ural Bridge. The first sensation of the 
 beholder is one of double astonishment : 
 iirjt, at the absolute sublimity of the 
 scene ; next, at the total inadequacy of 
 the descriptions he has read, and the 
 pictures he has seen, to produce in his 
 mind the faintest idea of the reality. 
 The great height gives the arch an air 
 of grace and lightness that must be seen 
 to be felt, and the power of speech is for 
 a, moment lost in contemplating the im- 
 mense dimensions of the surrounding ob- 
 jects. The middle of the arch is 45 feet 
 in perpendicular thickness, which in- 
 creases to 60 at its juncture with the 
 vast abutments. Its top, which is cov- 
 ered with soil supporting shrubs of va- 
 rious sizes, is 210 feet high. It is 60 
 feet wide, and its span is almost 90 feet. 
 Across the top passes a public road, and, 
 being in the same plane with the neigh- 
 boring country, you may cross it in a 
 coach without being aware of the inter- 
 esting pass. There are several forest 
 trees of large dimensions growing near 
 the edge of the creek directly under the 
 arch, which do not nearly reach its low- 
 est part. The most imposing view is 
 from about 60 yards below the bridge, 
 close to the edge of the creek ; from that 
 position the arch appears thinner, lighter, 
 and loftier. Prom the edge of the creek, 
 at some distance above the bridge, you 
 look at the thicker side of the arch, 
 which from this point of view approaches 
 somewhat to the Gothic. A little above 
 the bridge, on the western side of the 
 creek, the wall of rock is broken into 
 
 buttress-like masses, which rise almost 
 perpendicularly to a height of nearly 250 
 feet, terminating in separate pinnacles 
 which overlook the bridge. When you 
 are exactly under the arch, and cast your 
 glance upward, the space appears im- 
 mense; and the symmetry of the ellip- 
 soidal concave, formed by the arch and 
 the gigantic walls from which it springs, 
 is wonderfully pleasing. From this posi- 
 tion the views in both directions are sub- 
 lime and striking from the immense 
 height of the rocky walls, stretching 
 away in various curves, covered in some 
 places by the drapery of the forest, green 
 and graceful, and in others without a 
 bramble or a bush, bare and blue. 
 
 The following exciting narrative, in 
 connection with the Natural Bridge, ori- 
 ginally appeared in the New York Knick- 
 erbocker : 
 
 " I think it was in the summer of 1818 
 that James H. Piper, William Reveley, 
 William Wallace, and myself, being then 
 students of Washington College, Virginia, 
 determined to make a jaunt to the Natu- 
 ral Bridge, 14 miles off. Having ob- 
 tained permission of the president, we 
 proceeded on our way rejoicing. When 
 we arrived at the Bridge, nearly all of us 
 commenced climbing up the precipitous 
 sides in order to immortalize our names, 
 as usual. 
 
 " We had not been long thus employed 
 before we were joined by Robert Penn, 
 of Amherst, then a pupil of the Rev. , 
 Samuel Houston's grammar-school, in the 
 immediate neighborhood of the Bridge. 
 Mr. Piper, the hero of the occasion, com- 
 menced climbing on the opposite side of 
 the creek from the one by which the 
 pathway ascends the ravine. He began 
 down on the banks of the brook so far 
 that we did not know where he had gone, 
 and were only apprised of his where- 
 abouts by his shouting above our heads. 
 When we looked up, he was standing ap- 
 parently right under the arch, I suppose 
 a hundred feet from the bottom, and that 
 on the smooth side, which is generally 
 considered inaccessible without a ladder. 
 He was standing far above the spot 
 where General Washington is said to 
 have inscribed his name when a youth. 
 The ledge of the rock by which he as- 
 cended to this perilous height does not 
 101 
 
Naiubal Bbidge.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Weyer's Cavb. 
 
 appear from below to be three inches 
 wide, and runs almost at right angles to 
 the abutment of the bridge ; of course, 
 its termination is far down the cliff on 
 that side. Many of the written and tra- 
 ditional accounts state this to be the side 
 of the bridge up which he climbed. I 
 believe Miss Martineau so states ; but it 
 is altogether a mistake, as any one may 
 see by casting an eye up the precipice on 
 that side. The story, no doubt, origi- 
 nated from this preliminary exploit. 
 
 " The ledge of rock on which he was 
 standing appeared so narrow to us below, 
 as to make us belicTe his position a very 
 perilous one, and we earnestly entreated 
 him to come down. He answered us with 
 loud shouts of derision. At this stage of 
 the business Mr. Penn and servant left 
 us. He would not have done so, I sup- 
 pose, had he known what was to follow, 
 but up to this time not one of us had the 
 slightest suspicion that Mr. Piper in- 
 tended the daring exploit which he after- 
 ward accomplished. He soon after de- 
 scended from that side, crossed the 
 brook, and commenced climbing on the 
 side by which all visitors ascend the 
 ravine. He first mounted the rocks on 
 this side, as he had done on the other, far 
 down the abutment, but not so far as on 
 the opposite side. The projecting ledge 
 may be distinctly seen by any visitor. It 
 commences four or five feet from the 
 pathway on the lower side, and winds 
 round, gradually ascending, until it meets 
 the cleft of rock over which the cele- 
 brated cedar stump hangs. Following 
 this ledge to its termination, it brought 
 him 30 or 40 feet from the ground, and 
 placed him between two deep fissures, 
 one on each side of the gigantic column 
 of rock on which the aforementioned 
 cedar stump stands. This column stands 
 out from the bridge, as separate and dis- 
 tinct as if placed there by Nature on 
 purpose for an observatory to the won- 
 derful arch and ravine which it over- 
 looks. A huge crack or fissure extends 
 from its base to the sumniit ; indeed, it 
 is cracked on both sides, but much more 
 perceptibly on one side than the other. 
 Both of these fissures are thickly over- 
 grown with bushes, and numerous roots 
 project into them from trees growing on 
 the precipice. It was between these that 
 102 
 
 the aforementioned ledge conducted him. 
 Here he stopped, pulled off his coat and 
 shoes and threw them down to me. And 
 this, in my opinion, is a sufficient refuta- 
 tion of the story so often told, that he 
 went up to inscribe his name, and as- 
 cended so high that he found it more 
 difficult to return than to go forward. 
 He could have returned easUy from the 
 point where he disencumbered himself, 
 but the fact that he did thus prepare so 
 early, and so near the ground, and after 
 he had ascended more than double that 
 height on the other side, is clear proof 
 that to inscribe his name was not, and to 
 clunb the bridge was, his object. He had 
 already inscribed his name above Wash- 
 ington himself more than 50 feet. ^ 
 
 " Around the face of this huge column, 
 and between the clefts, he now moved 
 backward and forward, still ascending as 
 he found convenient foothold. When he 
 had ascended about 1'70 feet from the 
 earth, and had reached the point where 
 the pillar overhangs the ravine, his heart 
 seemed to fail him. He stopped, and 
 seemed to us to be balancing midway be- 
 tween heaven and earth. We were in 
 dread suspense, expecting every moment 
 to see him dashed in atoms at our feet. 
 We had already exhausted our powers of 
 entreaty in persuading him to return, but 
 all to no purpose. Now it was perilous 
 even to speak to him, and very difficult 
 to carry on conversation at all, from the 
 immense height to which he had ascend- 
 ed, and the noise made by the bubbling 
 of the little brook as it tumbled in tmy 
 cascades over its rocky bed at our feet. 
 At length he seemed to discover that one 
 of the clefts before mentioned retreated 
 backward from the overhanging position 
 of the pillar. Into this he sprang at 
 once, and was soon out of sight and out 
 of danger." 
 
 Weter's Cave is situated in Augusta 
 County, 11 miles northeast of Staunton, 
 with which it connects by stage. This re- 
 markable cavern was discovered in 1804 
 by Bernard Weyer, a hunter of the region 
 who chased a deer into it, and pursuing 
 the animal became acquainted with this 
 wonderful curiosity. 
 
 " The most magnificent apartment in 
 the whole cave is undoubtedly ' Washing- 
 ton's Hall.' It is worthy of the grand 
 
WETiat's Cavb.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Cyclopean Towebs. 
 
 associations of its name, which is sin- 
 gularly appropriate from a calcareous 
 formation that stands near the centre of 
 the room, rising to the height of six or 
 seven feet, and bearing a striking re- 
 semblance to a statue in classic drapery. 
 A sheet of rock-work runs through the 
 room, but the fine arch expands high 
 over the head, untouched. The dimen- 
 sions of the apartment are, 257 feet in 
 length; breadth, from 10 to 20 feet; 
 height, 33 feet. 
 
 " The ' main path ' by which the vis- 
 itor traverses the apartments and gal- 
 leries of the cave is 650 feet in length. 
 By the more winding paths the length is 
 quite double this. At all times the air 
 of the cave is damp, and some precau- 
 tions should be taken before entering it, 
 especially to preserve an equilibrium of 
 temperature. In all seasons the tempera- 
 ture of the cave is about 56°, and it is 
 important that the visitor in summer 
 should become cool before he enters, else 
 he is likely to be chiUed by the sudden 
 loss in the atmosphere of 30 or more de- 
 grees of heat. 
 
 " On the whole, Weyer's Cave is one 
 of the greatest sights in Virginia, and is 
 eminent in its own class of wonders." 
 
 A foreign gentleman wrote after visit- 
 ing this cavern : " Weyer's Cave is in my 
 judgment one of the great natural won- 
 ders of this new world, and for its emi- 
 nence in its own class deserves to be 
 ranked with the Natural Bridge and Nia- 
 gara, while it is far less known than 
 either. Its dimensions by the most direct 
 course are more than 1,600 feet, and by 
 the more winding paths twice that length, 
 and its objects are remarkable for their 
 variety, formation, and beauty. In both 
 respects it will, I think, compare without 
 iujury to itself with the celebrated grot- 
 to of Antiparos Scarcely any scenes 
 
 can awaken so many passions at once 
 and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, 
 terror, surprise, admiration, and delight 
 by turns, and together, arrest and possess 
 you. I have had before, from other ob- 
 jects, one simple impression made with 
 greater power : but I never had so many 
 impressions made, and with so much 
 power, before. If the interesting and the 
 awful are the elements of the sublime, 
 here sublimity reigns as in her own 
 
 domain, in darkness, silence, and deeps 
 profound." 
 
 Madison's Cave, within a few hundred 
 yards of Weyer's, is thus described by 
 Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia: " 
 "It is on the north side of the Blue 
 Eidge, near the intersection of the Eock- 
 ingham and Augusta line with the south 
 fork of the southern river Shenandoah. 
 It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpen- 
 dicular height, the ascent of which on 
 one side is so steep, that you may pitch 
 a biscuit from its summit into the river 
 which washes its base. The entrance of 
 the cave is in this side, about two-thirds 
 of the way up. It extends into the earth 
 about 300 feet, branching into subordi- 
 nate caverns, sometimes ascending a lit- 
 tle, but more generally descending, and 
 at length terminates in two different 
 places at basins of water of unknown ex- 
 tent. The vault of this cave is of solid 
 limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, 
 through which water is continually per- 
 colating. This, trickling down the sides 
 of the cave, has inorusted them over in 
 the form of elegant drapery; and drip- 
 ping from the top of the vault generates 
 on that, and on the base below, stalac- 
 tites of a conical form, some of which 
 have met and formed massive columns." 
 
 The Cyclopean Towers in Augusta, 
 northwest of Staunton, are a remarkable 
 group of towers formed of limestone 
 strata, rising from a stream to the height 
 of 60 or 70 feet. They are highly pic- 
 turesque, and" resemble the battlements 
 of some old castle "raised in feudal 
 times to guard the passes of the Ehine." 
 
 VATEEISrG-PLACES ALONG THE TIE- 
 GINIA AJSD TEMfESSEE EAILWAT. 
 
 In foregomg pages we have confined 
 our attention to the prominent watering- 
 places and objects of curiosity, most di- 
 rectly and conveniently reached from the 
 north and the seabord by the Chesapeake 
 & Ohio Eailway. It remains to notice 
 some popular mineral springs along the 
 line of the Virginia & Tennessee Eailway, 
 in the region west of Lynchburg. Trav- 
 ellers from the north reach these springs 
 by the Orange, Alexandria & Lynchburg 
 Eailway, and the Virginia & "Tennessee 
 Railway. Southern travellers by the lat- 
 103 
 
CoTNEil'S SfBINQS.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOITB. 
 
 [Ali^ghaky Sfbinos. 
 
 ter, which connects at Bristol with the 
 East Tennessee & Georgia Eailway. The 
 first watering-place of note, after leaving 
 Lynchburg, is 
 
 Cotneb's Springs, situated within about 
 300 yards of Bonsack's, Virginia & Tennes- 
 see Eailway. This is a popular place of 
 resort. The convenience of access is all 
 that can be desired, and they are a favor- 
 ite resort of the people of Lynchburg, 
 being but 50 miles from that city. The 
 buildings are spacious and comparatively 
 new, the management of the hotel is ex- 
 ceptionally good, and as a social resort 
 the place is known as one of .the gayest 
 ■ in Virginia. 
 
 The waters are sulphurous, and are, of 
 their class, mild and pleasant. They are 
 recommended in cases of difficult, imper- 
 fect, or painful digestion, enfeebled con- 
 dition of the nervous system, chronic dis- . 
 eases of the bladder or kidneys, salt 
 rheum, tetters, indolent liver, with de- 
 ficient or vitiated secretions, and in some 
 of the affections peculiar to females. 
 
 The place is a new candidate for the 
 favor of summer visitoi-s in Virginia ; and 
 to judge from the energy and tact of its 
 manager, and the reputation it has al- 
 ready acquired for its elegant social en- 
 tertainments, as well as for the value of 
 the water, it is destined to become better 
 known. The hotel accommodations are 
 excellent. The situation is on the bor- 
 ders of one of the most delightful and 
 fertile regions of Virginia, being im- 
 mediately on the line of the counties of 
 Botetourt and Koanoke. 
 
 The Alleghany Springs are '71 miles 
 from Lynchburg, and within three or four 
 miles of Shawsville, or Alleghany Station, 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway, with which 
 they connect by stages. At the railway 
 station, the managers of the springs have 
 erected a commodious and pleasant hotel, 
 designed as a convenience for visitors 
 arriving by the night trains, and desirous 
 of deferring the stage ride until the next 
 day. The Alleghany Springs had the 
 reputation at one time of being some- 
 what exclusive in the class of visitors, 
 but have now become highly popular. 
 The hotel and cottages are situated upon 
 undulating ground, surrounded by wild 
 and picturesque scenery. In the neigh- 
 borhood, distant about eight miles, are the 
 104 
 
 Puncheon Run Palls, which are thus 
 described : "In the midst of what must 
 have been once a grand convulsion of 
 the elements, and where the mountain 
 side appears to have been torn open al- 
 most to the primitive ropk — a wound 
 from an unknown source, unhealed, and 
 kept open and fretted with huge masses 
 of stone — a mountain stream descends, 
 not perpendicularly, nor yet by stages of 
 descent, but at an angle near the per- 
 pendicular, in a smooth plait of currents, 
 knotted with white cascades, some 1,800 
 or 2,000 feet measuring the length of the 
 water. . .It appears as if Nature had made 
 all the surroundings of this wonderful 
 scene to secure the greatest effects of 
 wildness and sublimity. The solitude is 
 deep, impenetrable. We are in the great 
 heart of the woods, deep down in a nar- 
 row fissure... The most vivid compari^ 
 son we can make to reahze the spectacle, 
 looking up from the foot (jf the fall, is a 
 plait of white glistening currents at top 
 closely interlaced, now knotted with, white 
 lumps of fbam, the plaits again and again 
 shaken out, again and again united, and, 
 at the last, frayed out like a whip^lash of 
 sUyer cords." About five miles from the 
 springs a well-graded road conducts the 
 visitor to "Fisher's View," a point on 
 the mountain from which a fine view of 
 the wild and beautiful scenery of the sur- 
 rounding region may be obtained. 
 
 The Alleghany water is said to contwn 
 nearly thirty elements, many of them 
 possessing active medicinal properties. 
 The effect produced is " cathartic, diur 
 retic, and tonic ; the main efficacy of the 
 waters depending on their laxative and 
 purgative operations by which the ali- 
 mentary canal is excited to copious se- 
 cretions, and the secretory functions of 
 the liver and pancreas are stimulated to 
 pour out their appropriate fluids." The 
 diseases for which it is recommended are 
 dyspepsia, depressed biliary secretions, 
 oostiveness, scrofula, jaundicje, and in- 
 cipient consumption. It has a specific 
 tonic action on the organs of digestion, 
 correcting deranged and morbid action 
 in those organs. The purgative effects 
 are mild or active in proportion to the 
 amount of the water used. 
 
 The MoNTGOMEBY White Sulphur, 
 Springs are situated in Montgomery 
 
Tellott Solphtir Sprinqs.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Bedford Alcm Springs. 
 
 County, one mile and a half from the 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway, with" 
 which they connect by a tramway reach- 
 ing from the railway to the threshold of 
 the reception room. These springs are 
 beautifuUy situated in the midst of fine 
 scenery, diversified by rippling streams, 
 and the lawn is one of the most attrac- 
 tive to be found at the watering places 
 of this region. The buildings are ex- 
 tremely comfortable and substantial, and 
 are said to have cost $140,000. The cot- 
 tages are sufficient to accommodate about 
 1,000 visitors. The central building, in- 
 cluding the dining-room, ball-room, and 
 parlor, is spacious and elegant, and the 
 cottages have two stories and gal- 
 leries. 
 
 The waters are of two classes, one a 
 strong sulphur, resembling that of the 
 Greenbrier White Sulphur ; the other a 
 tonic chalybeate. The sulphur is said to 
 be less cathartic and stimulant than other 
 sulphurs, and to act more mildly. The 
 reputation of these springs rests chiefly 
 upon their attractions as a place of sum- 
 mer resort for recreation and enjoy- 
 ment, for which they have " a peculiar 
 and unrivalled reputation among the 
 watering places of Virginia." 
 
 The Yellow Sulphitr Springs are situ- 
 ated five miles southwest of the Montgom- 
 ery White, and connect with the Virginia 
 & Tennessee Railway at Christiansburg, 
 four miles by stages. This spring rises 
 on the east side of the Alleghany, and 
 flows into the head waters of the Roan- 
 oke, near. The altitude of the spring is 
 very great, and, " in consequence of this 
 elevation, the air is elastic, pure, and in- 
 vigorating during the hottest days of 
 summer." This fountain was visited by 
 invalids 60 or 70 years ago, but has only 
 recently begun to be a place of pop- 
 ular resort. The water, which derives its 
 name from the fact that it deposits, on 
 the sides of the spring, or after standing, 
 a yellow brownish sediment, possesses 
 valuable tonic properties, and is delight- 
 fully cool, the temperature in the hot- 
 test weather remaining at 55° Fahr. The 
 taste is slightly astringent. The ac- 
 commodations are limited, their capacity 
 scarcely exceeding one hundred persons. 
 The grounds are beautifully shaded, and, 
 from the elevation of the spot, the nighta 
 
 are exceedingly cool in the sultriest 
 weather. 
 
 The HoLSTON Springs are situated in 
 Scott County, 3 or 4 miles southwest of 
 Estillville, and are reached from Bristol, 28 
 miles,by the Virginia & Tennessee Railway. 
 This watering place is thus described : 
 
 " Within an area of four or five feet 
 square, one may stand and drink, within 
 reach of his hand, of four different kinds 
 of water. There is a common limestone 
 water, a chalybeate water, a thermal 
 water, and a, white sulphur water; and 
 the traveller may drink of each within a 
 common enclosure, without getting out 
 of his tracks. The chalybeate water is 
 weak, but is said to have become so from 
 imperfect tubing. The white sulphur, 
 though not very strong, is a bold spring, 
 and the water cool and pleasant, and ef- 
 ficacious in many diseases. But the most 
 valuable spring in the group is the one 
 known as the 'warm spring.' Professor 
 Hayden analyzed this water in the sum- 
 mer of 1843. From his report the fol- 
 lowing extract is published in an adver- 
 tisement of the Holston Springs property: 
 
 "The uniform temperature of the 
 spring, 68^°, being 15 or 16 degrees 
 higher than the average temperature of 
 the springs in the vicinity, renders it a 
 natural medicated warm bath, subserving 
 all the purposes of health and luxury, 
 without being sufficiently high to give it 
 the usual disagreeable flavor of warm 
 water. One wine gallon of the water 
 contains 41.14 grains of saline matter, 
 consisting of chloride of sodium and mu- 
 riate of alumina, 1.51 grains; sulphate 
 of soda, a trace; sulphate of magnesia, 
 12. 75 grains; phosphate and sulphate of 
 alumina, a trace; carbonate of lime, 6.42 
 grains; sulphate of lime, 20.46 grains. 
 Total, 41.14 grains. 
 
 The watering-places described in pre- 
 ceding pages are the most prominent and 
 popular of the " Springs Region," and 
 afford visitors a sufficiently wide range 
 for selection. Among other less frequent- 
 ed watering-places are 
 
 The Bedford Alum Springs, near the 
 Virginia & Tennessee Railway, west of 
 Lynchburg, the waters of which contain 
 sulphuret of iron and are valuable in 
 dyspepsia. 
 
 106 
 
Gkayson Sfbikgs.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Capon Speingr. 
 
 The Gkayson White Sulphur Spbings, 
 in Oarrol County, near the spot where 
 New Kiver passes throu^ the Iron Moun- 
 tain, and connecting with the Virginia & 
 Tennessee Railway at Mack's Meadows 
 Station. 
 
 The Sharon Alum Springs, connecting 
 with the Virginia & Tennessee Railway 
 at Wytheville, 25 miles by stage. 
 
 Pulaski Alum Springs, connecting 
 with the Virginia & Tennessee Railway 
 at Newbem, 10 miles. 
 
 Dibbkell's or Daggers' Springs, in 
 Botetourt County, at the base of Gor- 
 don's Mountain. 
 
 The Rowley Springs, in Rockingham 
 County, a strong chalybeate, connecting 
 with Manassas Gap Railway at Harrison- 
 burg, by stages. 
 
 Eggleston's Springs, near the " Salt 
 Pond," a powerful sulphur. 
 
 The Huguenot Springs, in Pinlierton 
 County, connecting with Richmond & 
 Danrille Railway at Springs Station, 10 
 miles, by stages. 
 
 The Fauquier White Sulphur, in Fau- 
 quier County, 40 miles from Fredcriclis- 
 burg. 
 
 Jordan's Springs, in Frederick County, 
 5 miles from Winchester and 1^ mile 
 from Stephenson's Depot, on Winchester, 
 Potomac & Strasburg Railway, with which 
 tliey connect by stage — a highly popular 
 and agreeable place of summer resort. 
 
 The Shannondale Springs, in Jeffer- 
 son County, 5i miles from Charlestown, 
 on Winchester, Potomac & Strasburg 
 Railway; the water of which is power- 
 fully purgative and said to be equal to 
 the Bedford (Penn.) water. 
 
 Berkeley Springs, in Morgan County, 
 West Virginia, which connects with Bal- 
 timore & Ohio Railway at Sir John's Run, 
 2-J miles by stages. This is a long-estab- 
 lished and popular place of resort, the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway affording fa- 
 cilities for reaching the spot with ease 
 and rapidity from New York, Philadel- 
 phia, and Baltimore. Leaving Baltimore 
 after breakfast, the visitor dines at the 
 Springs after an agreeable railway jaunt, 
 and a short and pleasant ride on the 
 stage, 2J miles over the mountains. The 
 scenery is highly picturesque, and the 
 spot possesses historic and social assooia- 
 106 
 
 tions, as connected with Washington, 
 who frequently visited it. Froih a re- 
 mote period it has been the resort of 
 large numbers of agreeable people from 
 the lower valley of Virginia and Mary- 
 land ; and was a popiilair watering-place 
 as far back a^ 1816, when Paulding 
 visited it and described it in his " Letters 
 from the South." The waters flow from 
 five springs at the rate of 2,000 gaDons 
 per minute. The temperature is 74° 
 Fahr. The bathing-pools are very large, 
 and rank with the finest in Virginia. The 
 water is nOt remarkable for its curative 
 properties, and is but slightly impreg- 
 nated with mineral ingredients, but the 
 bathing is highly invigorating. The main 
 building is a large and commodious hotel, 
 in which dancing takes place nightly 
 throughout the season. 
 
 Capon Springs is a highly popular 
 place of summer resort, at the base of 
 the North Mountain, 23 miles from Win- 
 chester, with which It connects by 
 stage; also with Capon Roads Depot, 
 Winchester, Potomac & Strasburg Rail- 
 way, 15 miles, over the mountain. The 
 former route is the most agreeable, the 
 turnpike being excellent. The springs 
 are but 8 or 10 hours from Baltimore. 
 Candy's Castle, the Tea Table, and other 
 curiosities of the region are accessible 
 from this watering-place. "Capon "has 
 achieved rapid popularity. 
 
 In 1849 a company was formed for the 
 purpose of making improvements com- 
 mensurate with the wants of the public, 
 and expended nearly $80,000 in the con- 
 struction of the Mountain House and its 
 
 Fronting the Mountain House is the 
 bathing establishment, presenting a beau- 
 tiful colonnade front 280 feet, with a 
 central building two stories high, 42 by 
 30 feet, containing parlors, etc., for the 
 use of bathers. Its arrangements are ad- 
 mirable, furnishing plunge, douche, and 
 shower baths of any temperature. Sir 
 Henry Bulwer, when on a visit to Capon 
 with Mr. Webster, pronounced them un- 
 surpassed by any he had visited in Europe. 
 
 The revenue from these baths accrues 
 to the State trustees, and is required to 
 be perpetually expended in beautifying 
 and improving the place. 
 
 An analysis of the Capon water ex- 
 
Hawk's Nest.] 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 [Halt Pond. 
 
 hibits silicic acid, magnesia, soda, bro- 
 mine, iodine, and carbonic acid gas. The 
 water is clear, light, and pleasant, and 
 leaves the skin with that delicate feeling 
 of velvet which evinces its power in 
 softening and detaching the epidermis. 
 
 As a, bath and beverage it will be 
 found very useful in a wide range of dis- 
 eases, especially in idiopathic and sym- 
 pathetic affections of the nervous system, 
 chronic derangement of the mucous sur- 
 faces, various forms of dyspepsia, chronic 
 diarrhoea, irritation of the intestinal canal, 
 and gravel. 
 
 Ha-frk's l^est. The remarkable 
 mineral constituents in the soil of the 
 mountain region of Y irginia are sufficiently 
 shown by the descriptions we have given 
 of the numerous springs. The geological 
 peculiarities of the country are equally 
 striking, and betray themselves in those 
 singular curiosities, Weyer's Cave, the 
 Natural Bridge, the Cyclopean Towers, 
 the Natural Tunnel, etc., etc., which we 
 have noticed. Mr. Jefferson was so much 
 impressed by the remarkable character 
 of the region extending from Harper's 
 Ferry to James River, that he supposed 
 the valley to have at one time been cov- 
 ered by an enormous lake or inland sea, 
 which finally broke through the moun- 
 tains at Harper's Ferry ; but this would 
 account for only a portion of the curious 
 objects and localities of the region. 
 Among these are the HawJc's Nest, or 
 UfarshalVs Pillar. This imposing object 
 is in Fayette County, on New River, 96 
 miles from Guyandotte on the Ohio, and 
 64 miles from the White Sulphur Springs, 
 from which point the Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Railway will soon enable visitors to reach 
 it. The wild and beautiful scenery of the 
 valley of New River — a region which is 
 comparatively unexplored, but abounding 
 in mineral wealth and landscape beauty 
 — culminates in this striking curiosity, 
 which is thus described : 
 
 "Sawk's Nest is an immense pillar of 
 rock, with a vertical height of 1,000 feet 
 above the bed of the river. You leave 
 the road by a little by-path, and after 
 pursuing it for a short distance, the whole 
 scene suddenly breaks upon you. But 
 how shall we describe it? The great 
 charm of the whole is connected with the 
 point of sight, which is the finest imagin- 
 
 able. You come suddenly to the spot 
 which projects on the scene, and is so 
 small as to give standing only to some 
 half dozen persons. It has on its head 
 an old picturesque pine ; and it breaks 
 away at your feet abruptly and in per- 
 pendicular lines to a depth of more than 
 1,000 feet. Standing on this ledge, by 
 its elevated and detached character, af- 
 fects you with dizziness, the ^forest rises 
 above and around you. Beneath and 
 before you is spread a lovely valley. A 
 peaceful river glides down it, reflecting 
 like a mirror all the lights of heaven, 
 washes the foot of the rocks on which 
 you are standing, and then winds away 
 into another valley at your right. The 
 trees of the wood, in all their variety, 
 stand out on the verdant bottoms, with 
 their heads in the sun, and casting their 
 shadows at your feet, but so diminished 
 as to look more like the pictures of the 
 things than the things themselves. The 
 green hills rise on either hand and all 
 around, and give completeness and beau- 
 ty to the scene. Beyond these appears 
 the gray outline of the more distant 
 mountains, bestowing grandeur to what 
 was supremely beautiful. It is exquisite. 
 It conveys to you the idea of perfect 
 solitude." 
 
 Sa.It Pond. This curious object 
 is situated on the summit of the Salt 
 Pond Mountain, in Giles County. It is a 
 lake of pure, fresh water, sunk in the 
 mountain at an elevation of four thou- 
 sand five hundred feet above the level of 
 the sea, and is fed by no visible stream. 
 From the surface of the water rise the 
 dead tops of large trees which have been 
 submerged, and the lake is said to have 
 been gradually enlarging, instead of di- 
 minishing, since 1804, when it was first 
 discovered. Since that time it has risen 
 25 feet, and no drought has ever affected 
 it. It is without fish, and, though some 
 were placed in it, they have disappeared. 
 Among its mysterious attractions is the 
 singular fact that its depth is unfathom- 
 able — a line 300 feet in length touched 
 no bottom. The visitor looking down 
 from the boat into the water sees at 
 some points large trees, long since over- 
 whelmed — "a weird, leafless forest, yet 
 rooted in its original soil: the effect is 
 indescribable ; it is that of the glimpses 
 lOT 
 
Salt Pond.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [GrEKEBAL rEAICBES. 
 
 of a strange solemn world of shapes that 
 look heayy as stone or bronze, and yet 
 suspended in the water." The origin of 
 this singular lake is undiscovered. It is 
 supposed to have been formed by the 
 trampling of the countless deer and buf- 
 falo who once frequented a. salt lick on 
 the spot — the earth being thus enabled 
 to " hold water." This explanation will 
 not, however, account for the great 
 depth, and it is probable that the pond 
 is due to some subterranean stream, like 
 Lost River. A lady visiting it said that 
 she felt as if "the bottom might fall 
 out." Stages from Christiansburg, Vir- 
 ginia & Tennessee Railway, to the Springs, 
 pass this curiosity, and also Bald Knob, a 
 remarkable peak of the mountain above 
 it, from which the visitor looks into five 
 States — Virginia, West Virginia, Ken- 
 tucky, Tennessee, and North Carolina. 
 
 oojsroLusioir. 
 
 The cursory view presented in fore- 
 going pages of the mountain region of 
 Virginia, and the extraordinary mineral 
 springs and natural curiosities of the 
 country, conveys but an inadequate idea 
 of a territory as striking perhaps as any 
 other on the face of the globe. The 
 mineral springs alone, starting up at al- 
 most every step taken by the tourist, and 
 abounding in the richest medicinal in- 
 gredients and curative properties for 
 every species of disease which afSicts 
 humanity, would alone confer upon the 
 mountains of Virginia unrivalled attrac- 
 tions; but for the sununer tourist, the 
 business explorer, and the political econ- 
 omist, no less than for the invalid in 
 search of health, the region possesses an 
 interest surpassed by no other on the 
 continent. The remarkable objects ex- 
 citing admiration by their beauty and 
 grandeur have been passed in brief re- 
 view, but it has been impossible for the 
 writer, in a work so circumscribed as the 
 present, to describe otherwise than in 
 108 
 
 general outline this picturesque and im- 
 posing terrain where mountains rise on 
 mountains, rivers foam, or steal away 
 through deep, rook-skirted valleys, and 
 at every step some landscape, which 
 would make the fortune of a painter, 
 meets the eye. The whole re^on pierced 
 by the Vir^nia & Tennessee Railway, 
 running through Southwestern Virginia 
 to Bristol, and that along the great New- 
 River in Western Virginia, which will 
 soon be opened to th? summer tourist bj' 
 the Chesapeake & Ohio Riulway, are full 
 of the wildest and grandest scenery yet 
 untrodden by the foOt of man, aiid will 
 sooner or later be the resort, no less 
 than the picturesque region toward the 
 St. Lawrence, of the lovers of beauty and 
 sublimity in natural scenery. 
 
 As a territory abounding in sources of 
 national wealth, this region will attract 
 in equal degree the attention of the 
 statesman and political economist — the 
 mineral products, coal, lead, iron, salt, 
 plaster; the splendid valleys watered by 
 never-failing streams ; the boundless pas- 
 tures; the rich mountain sides, capable 
 in many places of cultivation to the sum- 
 mit ; the great yield of hay ; the fine 
 horses, sheep, and cattle — will, with the 
 extension of railways, those genii of the 
 present and the future, be opened up and 
 made available for the comfort and con- 
 venience of man, and Southwest Virginia 
 will become what the country has been 
 called, an empire in iiadf. An improved 
 system of agriculture, together with an 
 extension <rf manufactures and com- 
 merce, is destined, at an early day, to 
 rejuvenate and bountifully enrich Tide- 
 water Vir^nia; but the valleys of the 
 AUeghanies, under the boundless spirit 
 of enterprise which characterizes the 
 modern world, are to prove the sources 
 of still greater wealth, and to make the 
 commonwealth of Virginia, so famous in 
 the past for her moral and political in- 
 fluence, more famous still as the seat of 
 manufacturing and commercial empire. 
 
KocTH Cakolina.] 
 
 NORTH CABOLINA. [Population and Climam. 
 
 NORTH CAEOLINA. 
 
 Immediatelt south of Virginia, and 
 easily accessible either by land or water, 
 lies North Cabolina, also one of the 
 original Thirteen States of the American 
 Confederacy. It lies between 33° 53' and 
 36° 33' N. latitude, and between 75° 26' 
 and 84° 30' W. longitude, and includes 
 aa area of 50,704 square miles, or 32,- 
 450,560 acres. It is bounded on the east 
 and southeast by the Atlantic; on the 
 south by South Carolina and Georgia; 
 and northwest by Tennessee, from which 
 it is separated by the Alleghany Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 The colonial and revolutionary history 
 of the region is replete with facts inter- 
 esting to the lover of stirring adventure, 
 and there are few localities in which have 
 been enacted more of those strange and 
 startling scenes that marked the settle- 
 ment of our country. To North Carolina 
 belongs the honor of having had the first 
 English settlement in America within its 
 domain. As long ago as 1584-'89 at- 
 tempts were made to colonize the region 
 by Sir Walter Ealeigh, who received a 
 charter from Queen Elizabeth, and 
 through whose efforts this portion of the 
 American coast lying between Virginia 
 and Florida was discovered. His first 
 landing was made on Roanoke Island. 
 
 In -1630 a patent was granted to Sir 
 Henry Heath for the whole of the coun- 
 try, extending from Virginia southward 
 over sis degrees of latitude to the rather 
 indefinite boundaries of the Floridas, then 
 in possession of the Spaniards. The 
 region was named " Carolina " in honor 
 of the sister of Charles the First of that 
 name. 
 
 During the Revolution, the State did 
 memorable service, and especially in being 
 the first publicly and solemnly to re- 
 nounce allegiance to the British crown, 
 in the famous Mecklenburg Declaration 
 
 of Independence, May 20, 1775— more 
 than a year before the similar formal as- 
 sertion of the other States. 
 
 On the 20th of May, 1861, the 86th 
 anniversary of the Mecklenburg Declara- 
 tion of Independence, the Ordinance of 
 Secession was passed. Military opera- 
 tions were immediately commenced; 
 Federal forts, mint, and arsenal seized, 
 and by June IBth a force of 20,000 vol- 
 unteers had been raised for the service 
 of the Confederacy. During the memor- 
 able campaigns toward the close of the 
 rebellion, this State was the scene of 
 many a bloody battle. The naval bom- 
 bardment and final capture of Fort Fish- 
 er, followed as it was by the occupation 
 of Wilmington, Petersburg, and Rich- 
 mond, formed one of the most brilliant as 
 well as decisive events of the whole war. 
 
 The State is divided into 86 counties. 
 Ealeigh, near the Neuse River, is the 
 capital ; and Wilmington, 20 miles from 
 the mouth of the Cape Fear River, is the 
 chief commercial city. 
 
 Fopulation and Wealth. — In 1860 the 
 population of the State was 993,622, of 
 whom 629,942 were whites, 30,463 free 
 negroes, 331,059 slaves, and 1,158 In- 
 dians. In 1870 it was 1,069,614, of 
 whom 691,650 were negroes. In 1872 
 there were 1,250 miles of railway. In 
 1860 the total valuation of real and per- 
 sonal estate in North Carolina was $292,- 
 297,602. In 1870 it had decreased to 
 $132,046,391. In 1871 the capital stock 
 of the banks of the State amounted to 
 $1,610,000 ; individual deposits, $2,080,. 
 560; loans and discounts, $2,412,817; 
 specie, $27,000 ; resources and Uabilities, 
 $5,635,240. 
 
 Climaie. — In the low counties the cli- 
 mate is hot and unhealthy in summer, 
 bilious and intermittent fevers prevailing. 
 In the middle and western sections it ia 
 109 
 
Soil and Pboddctioss.J 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [TOPOURAPHT. 
 
 temperate and healthful. Wlieat is har- 
 vested in June, and corn in September. 
 
 Soil and Productions. — The soil is of 
 every variety, from the sands and 
 marshes of the coast, to the rich alluvions 
 of the river bottoms. The staple pro- 
 ductions are Indian corn, tobacco, and 
 sweet potatoes. In the Jatter article 
 North Carolina is only exceeded by three 
 States ; in tobacco by five ; while it ex- 
 ceeds every other State ' in peas and 
 beans. Among the fruits are apples, 
 pears, peaches, cherries, grapes, and 
 strawberries. The State is heavily tim- 
 bered, mostly with pitch-producing pine, 
 which produces the enormous supplies of 
 rosin and spirits of turpentine, for which 
 the State is famous, and which are ex- 
 ported to all parts of the world. 
 
 Commerce. — The exports of North 
 Carolina, of which the great bulk passes 
 through Wilmington, have been steadily 
 on the increase since the close of the 
 war. In,1866, the first year of peace, the 
 export of cotton amounted to 64,000 
 bales. In 1871 there was exported to 
 foreign ports, 70 bales ; to coastwise 
 ports, 77,153. Total, m 1871, 77,223; 
 in 1870, 58,884. The exports of spirits 
 of turpentine in 1866 were 57,000 casks, 
 in 1867, 89,000 casks, in 1868 90,000 
 casks, in 1869, 120,000 casks. In 1870 
 and 1871 there was about the same ratio 
 of increase. The export of rosin in- 
 creased from 343,461 barrels in 1866 to 
 544,498 barrels in 1869. The export of 
 lumber of all kinds has been well main- 
 tained year after year since the close of 
 the war, and, though at slightly reduced 
 rates, has of late been increased; so 
 that, with the extended cultivation of 
 cotton and other marks of reviving agri- 
 culture, the gradual recuperation of 
 North Carolina seems beyond question. 
 
 Tobacco was found here in the time of 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, by whom it was in- 
 troduced in England and first used. Ac- 
 cording to the Old Chronicles " it was a 
 costly luxury in which none but the rich 
 could indulge. It was worth its weight in 
 silver." In France, a short time there- 
 after, Catharine de Medici indulged in a 
 pipe, and the plant was hence called 
 " the queen's herb." 
 
 Grapes were also indigenous, and the 
 three finest native grapes of our country 
 110 
 
 all spread from North Carolina. These 
 are the Scuppemong, the Catawba, and 
 the Isabella. The first Scuppemong vine 
 was found in Tyrrel County by the ex- 
 plorers under Amadas and Barlow, and 
 they transplanted a small vine and root 
 to Roanoke Island. That vine is yet 
 alive and covers an immense extent of 
 ground. 
 
 Topoffraph/. — Of picturesque attrac- 
 tions the State is popularly considered to 
 be wholly destitute— an impression which 
 results from an erroneous estimate of her 
 topography, which travellers in the course 
 of years have made, from the uninterest- 
 ing forest travel in the eastern portion, 
 traversed by the great railway thorough- 
 fares from the Northern to the Southern 
 States ; the only highway until within 
 very late years, and to this day the only 
 one very much in use. The eastern part 
 of North Carolina, stretching sixty miles 
 inland, is a vast plain, sandy, and over- 
 run with interminable forests of pine. 
 Yet this wilderness is not without points 
 and impressions of interest to the tourist, 
 more particularly when it is brokeu, as it 
 often is, by great stretches of dank 
 marsh, sometimes opening into mystical- 
 looking lakes, as on the Little Dismal 
 Swamp, lying between Pamlico and Al- 
 bemarle Sounds, and on the Great Dis- 
 mal Swamp, which the State shares with 
 Virginia. The staple productions of the 
 " piney woods country," as it is called, 
 are tar, pitch, and turpentine. The 
 coast, too, of North Carolina, is one of 
 the most celebrated on the western bor- 
 ders of the Atlantic — the one most 
 watched and feared by mariners and all 
 voyagers, that upon which the dreaded 
 Capes Hatteras, Lookout, and Fear are 
 found. While the innumerable bays, 
 shoals, and islands are thus cautiously 
 avoided by the passing mariner, they are 
 as eagerly sought by the fisherman and 
 the sportsman. Immense quantities of 
 shad and herring, and other fish, are 
 taken here, and the estuaries of the rivers 
 and the bays are among the favorite re- 
 sorts of wild fowl of every species, mak- 
 ing this coast scarcely less attractive to 
 the sportsman than are the Chesapeake 
 Bay and the shores of Long Island. 
 
 The level region extends about 60 
 miles from the coast, and is succeeded 
 
RlTEES.] 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 by the hilly country iu the centre, which 
 in turn gives place to the mountainous 
 region of the west. This section, when 
 it comes to be better known, as the rail- 
 ways now approaching it from all sides 
 promise that it soon will be, will place 
 the State in public estimation among the 
 most strikingly picturesque portions of 
 the Union. The two great ridges of the 
 AUeghanies traverse it, some of their 
 peaks rising to the noblest heights, and 
 one of them (Mount Mitchell) reaching a 
 greater altitude than any summit east of 
 the Rocky Mountains. Wild brooks in- 
 numerable and of the richest beauty, 
 water-falls, and lovely valleys, are found 
 in this yet almost unknown land. 
 
 Rivers. — The rivers of North Carolina 
 have no very marked picturesque char- 
 acter, except the mountain-streams in the 
 west, which are almost inaccessible. The 
 greater number of the rivers run from 
 200 to 400 miles, in a southeast direction, 
 through the State to the Atlantic. A 
 few small streams enter into the Tennes- 
 see. The JRoanoke and the Chowan ex- 
 tend from Virginia to Albemarle Sound. 
 The Cape Fear River traverses the State 
 and enters the sea near the southern ex- 
 tremity of the State. Travellers by the 
 old steamboat route from Wilmington 
 to Charleston will remember the passage 
 of this river from the former place, 20 
 miles to its mouth at Smithville. The 
 Neme and the famous Tar River come 
 from the north to Pamlico Sound. The 
 Yadkin and the Caiawha enter South 
 Carolina, and are there called, one the 
 Cheat Pedee, and the other the Waieree. 
 These and the other rivers of this State 
 are so greatly obstructed at their mouths 
 by sand-banks, and above by rapids and 
 falls, that their waters are not navigable 
 for any great distance, or by any other 
 than small craft. Vessels drawing ten 
 or twelve feet of water ascend the Cape 
 Fear Kiver as far as Wilmington, and 
 light-draught steamboats go to Fayette- 
 vUle. Steamboats sail up the Neuse 120 
 miles to Waynesboro, up the Tar 100 
 miles to Tarborough, up the Roanoke 
 120 miles to Halifax, and up the Chowan 
 75 miles. The mountain-streams are full 
 of trout and other fish, and the sports- 
 man will also find abundance of enjoy- 
 ment with rod and line. 
 
 Mineral produdu of great variety and 
 value are found in North Carolina, as in 
 the neighboring mountain districts of 
 South CaroUna and Georgia. Until the 
 discovery of the auriferous lands of Cali- 
 fornia, this was the most abundant gold 
 tract in the United States. The mines 
 here of this monarch of metals have been 
 profitably worked for many years. At 
 the branch mint iu Charlotte, in the min- 
 ing region, gold was coined, between and 
 mcludiug the years 1838 and 1853, to 
 the value of no less than $3,790,033 ; the 
 highest annual product being %'&^&,'lZi, 
 in the year 1852. " The copper lands of 
 the State," says Prof. Jackson, "are un- 
 paralleled in richness. Coal, too, both 
 bituminous and anthracite, is found here 
 in great abundance and of the finest 
 quality. Iron-ore also exists throughout 
 the mountain districts. Limestone and 
 freestone may be had in inexhaustible 
 supply. Marl is abundant in all the 
 counties on the coast, and silver, lead, 
 manganese, salt, and gypsum, have been 
 discovered." 
 
 EAIL-WATS. 
 
 The two chief routes of travel south- 
 ward through the State radiate from 
 Richmond, Va. The first of these is via 
 Petersburg, Weldon, N. C, Wilmington, 
 etc., over the Wilmington & Weldon 
 Railroad ; the second is by way of the 
 Richmond, Danville & Piedmont Rail- 
 road to Danville, Va., and Greensboro', 
 Salisbury^ and Charlotte, N. C. 
 
 JROUTJE I. 
 
 •WELDON TO WILMINOTON. 
 Via 'Wilmington t& Weldon JRail/wa/y. 
 Stations : — Weldon (connects with 
 Raleigh & Gaston, Seaboard & Roanoke, 
 and Petersburg Railways. Also with 
 Steamboats on Roanoke River). Halifax, 
 Smiles; Enfield, 19; Rocky Mount (con- 
 nects with Tarborough Branch), 37 ; Wil- 
 son, 54 ; Goldsboro (connects with North 
 Carolina and Atlantic & North CaroHna 
 Railways), 78 ; Mount Olive, 92 ; Mag- 
 nolia, 114; South Washington, 133 ; 
 Castle Hayne, 153 ; Wilmington (con- 
 nects with Wilmington, Columbia & Au- 
 gusta Railway. Also with steamers sail- 
 ing from Wilmington), 162. 
 
 HI 
 
Takboko' Brakch.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [WllMINOTOS, 
 
 TarlJoro'Brancli. — ^Trains run 
 between Rooky Mount and Tarboro', con- 
 necting with main line. 
 
 If eldon l3 situated on the Roan- 
 oke River, at the head of steamboat 
 navigation, 95 miles northeast of Raleigh. 
 It is an Important railroad centre, and, 
 should its extensive water-power ever be 
 utilized, it may become a place of con- 
 siderable trade. The country en route is 
 flat and uninteresting, and the road trav- 
 erses a considerable portion of the great 
 pine belt which extends from Virginia to 
 Florida. 
 
 Ooldsljoro' (78 nules), in Wayne 
 County, is situated near the Neuse Riv- 
 er, at the point vrhere it is crossed by 
 the 'Wilmington & Weldon Railway, 50 
 miles southeast of Raleigh. The Neuse 
 is navigable to this point three-fourths 
 of the .year. The city has immediate 
 railroad connection with roads north and 
 south. It was occupied by the Federal 
 forces in March, 1865. It has had a 
 very rapid growth. The first house was 
 erected 'In 1841 ; the present population 
 exceeds 3,500. There is good hotel ac- 
 commodation for travellers. 
 
 fVilmington (162 miles), the 
 largest and the chief commercial city of 
 North Carolina, is in the southeastern ex- 
 tremity of the State, upon the Cape Fear 
 River, 20 miles from the sea, 135 miles 
 southeast of Raleigh, and 162 from Wel- 
 don. It was originally called Newton, 
 and was named Wilmington after the 
 English nobleman of that name, -to whose 
 patronage Governor Johnston was in- 
 debted for his office. It offers, however, 
 no very great attractions to the traveller 
 in quest of the picturesque, though it 
 played a part in the drama of the Revo- 
 lution. Major Craig took possession of 
 the town in January, 1781, and occupied 
 it until the surrender of ComwaUis. It 
 fell into the possession of the combined 
 military and naval Union forces, Febru- 
 ary 22, 1865. It has been twice visited 
 by fire, first in 1819, and last upon the 
 evacuation of the Southern troops in 
 1865. It has several fine public build- 
 ings, a theatre, and three newspapers. 
 Population, 13,000. 
 
 Ports Fisher and Caswell, and the vil- 
 lage of Smithville, at the mouth of the 
 Cape Fear River, will interest the visitor. 
 112 
 
 Fort Fisher, one of the strongest forts 
 on the Atlantic coast, defended the harbor 
 of Wilmington, and the expedition against 
 it was commanded by Commodore Por- 
 ter. It consisted Of 70 vessels, and a 
 land force under General Butler. After 
 a fierce bombardment (December 24, 25, 
 1864), Butler decided that the fort could 
 not be taken by assault, and the army 
 returned to Fortress Monroe. Commo- 
 dore Porter, dissatisfied with the result, 
 layoff the place, and asked for a second 
 trial. The same troops, with 1,600 addi- 
 tional men, were sent back under Gen- 
 eral Terry. Protected by a terrible fire 
 from the fleet, a column of sailors and 
 one of soldiers worked their way, by a 
 series of trenches, to within two hundred 
 yards of the fort. At the word, the for- 
 mer leaped forward on one side and the 
 latter on another. The sailors were re- 
 pulsed, but the soldiers burst into the 
 fort. The fight lasted for hours. Late 
 at night, the garrison, hemmed in on all 
 sides, surrendered (January 15, 1865). 
 
 Wilmington is striving in various ways 
 to develop the resources of the State and 
 to improve its own position as the port 
 of shipment. Chief among the objects 
 anxiously promoted by its leading men is 
 the completion of the Wilmington, Char- 
 lotte & Rutherford Railway. A consider- 
 able extension of the line is stiU neces- 
 sary to render the projected communica- 
 tion complete. Along the southern bor- 
 der of North Carolina there are several 
 well-settled and productive counties 
 which have no railway communication 
 with the coast, and the object of the pro- 
 moters of the railway is to open up these 
 counties and to form a connection with 
 the Tennessee line and the great thor- 
 oughfares to the South and West. There 
 is little reason to doubt that, by means 
 of direct railway communication with 
 Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, and Illinois, 
 Wilmington as well as other Southern 
 seaports would command a share of the 
 Western traffic with Europe, at present 
 carried by a longer route to New York, 
 Philadelphia, and Baltimore. The coun- 
 ties yet to be penetrated by the Wilming- 
 ton and Rutherford line are rich in agri 
 cultural and mineral resources. Meck» 
 lenburg, one of the number, has long 
 been among the foremost cotton-growing 
 
 11 
 
Stations.] 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Chapel Hill. 
 
 counties in the State. The vicinity of 
 Wilmington is largely devoted to the rais- 
 ing of fruit and vegetables for Northern 
 markets, and an important and lucrative 
 business in these commodities is rapidly 
 growin^up. 
 
 Steamships ply weekly to New York ; 
 daily communication by rail with Rich- 
 mond and Charleston, S. 0. 
 
 MOUTJS II. 
 
 WILUnNQTOir TO KJnsrGSriLLE, s. c. 
 
 Via Wilmington, Colwmbia tSs Augusta 
 Bmlway. 
 
 Stations. — Wilmington (connects with 
 Wilmington & Weldon Railway) : Brink- 
 ley's, 17 miles ; Whiteville, 44 ; Fair 
 Bluff (connects with stage to Fayetteville 
 and Conwayboro), 63 ; Peedee, 92 ; 
 Florence (connects with Cheraw & Dar- 
 lington and Northeastern Railways) 107 ; 
 Lynchburg, 128 ; Sumter, 146 ; Man- 
 chester, 157; Wateree, 162; Kingsville 
 (connects with Camden Branch of South 
 Carolina Railway), 171. 
 
 The above is simply a continuation of 
 the through line to the South, and is de- 
 scribed at length in our sketch of South 
 Carolina. (See page 131.) 
 
 JROUTE III. 
 
 GOLDSBOBCr TO CHARLOTTE. 
 Via North Carolina Uait/way. 
 
 Stations. — Goldsboro' (connects with 
 Wilmington & Weldon, and Atlantic & 
 North Carolina Railways); Selma, 20 
 miles ; Raleigh (connects with Raleigh & 
 Gaston Railway), 48 ; MorrisviUe, 60 ; Dur- 
 hams, 73 ; Hillsboro', 87 ; Graham, 105 ; 
 Company Shops, 107 ; McLean's, 121 ; 
 Greensboro (connects with Richmond, 
 Danville & Piedmont Railway), 130 ; 
 High Point, 145; Lexington, 163; Salis- 
 bury (connects with Western North 
 Carolina Railway), 180; Concord, 202; 
 Charlotte (connects with Charlotte, Co- 
 lumbia & Augusta Railway, and Western 
 Division of Wilmington, Charlotte & 
 Rutherford Railway), 223. 
 
 This is one of the most interesting 
 regions of North Carolina through which 
 the tourist can pass. The country is 
 rolling and variegated in character, and 
 abounds not only in quaint, old-fashioned 
 
 towns and well-cultivated farms, but in 
 localities that are renowned in Revolution- 
 ary history. The North Carolina Rail- 
 road is 223 miles in length, and trav- 
 erses some of the richest cotton, grain, 
 and tobacco lands in the State. Golds- 
 boro has already been described. From 
 this point to Raleigh is an extensive tur- 
 pentine region. 
 
 Raleigb. (48 miles). It will be 
 seen by reference to the map that Ra- 
 leigh occupies a position midway between 
 the two dh"ect routes of travel to which 
 allusion has been made. It is the capital 
 of the State, and is beautifully situated 
 four miles west of the Neuse River, a lit- 
 tle northeast of the centre of the State. 
 The seat of government was located 
 here in 1788, and named after Sir Walter 
 Raleigh. Vhicn Square is an open area 
 of ten acres, occupying a centre, on the 
 sides of which are the principal streets. 
 The State-House, which is on this square, 
 is one of the most imposing capitols of 
 the United States, It is built of granite, 
 after the model of the Parthenon, with 
 massive columns and a grand dome, and 
 cost half a million dollars, equal at the 
 present time to nearly twice that sum. 
 The former State-House was destroyed 
 by fire in 1831, and with it the cele- 
 brated statue of Washington by Canova. 
 A destructive fire on the 7th of January, 
 1831, laid a great portion of the city 
 in ashes. The State Lunatic Asylum, 
 the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, 
 and the Penitentiary, are all located 
 here. Population, about 8,000. The 
 Yarborough and Rutjes Hotels are the 
 principal houses of entertainment for 
 travellers. Raleigh is the birthplace of 
 ex-President Andrew Johnson. 
 
 Durliains (73 miles). This is a 
 small country town chiefly known as the 
 site of several tobacco-factories, which 
 have made the name somewhat famous in 
 trade. The surrender of General Joseph 
 E. Johnston, one of the most important 
 events in the history of the civil war, and 
 which brought it practically to a close, 
 took place at a point about six miles 
 distant, on April 25, 1865. 
 
 Chapel mil, a pretty interior 
 
 town, is reached from this pomt by a 
 
 stage-ride of eight miles. The North 
 
 Carolina University is located there, but 
 
 118 
 
HlLLSBOKOTTGH.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Newberh. 
 
 during the past Ave or six years the ele- 
 gant grounds and time-honored edifices 
 attached to the institution have been 
 given up to ruin, and the charm of the 
 place is lost. 
 
 nills1>oroiig:h (87 miles). With 
 the exception of Halifax, this is the oldest 
 town in North Carolina. The PrOTincial 
 Congress and the State Legislature of 
 North Carolina assembled here ; the first 
 patriots of the Revolution — knoim as 
 Regulators, were executed here ; the 
 place was the residence of Governor Try- 
 on, one of the distinguished loyalists of 
 the day ; and the house occupied as head- 
 quarters by Lord Cornwall is, with others 
 to which Revolutionary interest is at- 
 tached, are still standing. 
 
 Company Shops (107 miles). 
 As the name implies, this is a station at 
 which the machinery of the road is both 
 manufactured and kept in order. It is a 
 thriving little place, and yearly increases 
 in population. 
 
 Oreenslboro' (130 miles). Con- 
 nection is here made with the Richmond, 
 Danville & Piedmont Railway, and the 
 town has grown more since the close of 
 the war than at any previous period in 
 its history. It is the centre of a thriving 
 tobacco-trade, and contains several fac- 
 tories, among which is a sumach and a 
 spoke and handle factory. Sumach is 
 gathered .in the neighborhood in large 
 quantities and prepared for exportation, 
 while the oak and hickory which abound 
 furnished the staple of many articles that 
 ■ were shipped to Prussia during the late 
 war with France. Greensboro' is also 
 the centre of a large mining-region rich 
 in copper and iron. Coal is found on the 
 Dan River. The battle of Guilford Court- 
 House, during the Revolution, was fought 
 about three miles from this place. 
 
 Salisbury (180 miles). Connec- 
 tion is here made with the Western 
 North Carolina Railway, by which the 
 tourist may reach many of the wild lo- 
 calities of the western region. It is an 
 ancient town, and there is an air of genu- 
 ine hospitality about the inhabitants that 
 is not least among its attractions. From 
 this point to Charlotte it is a gold- 
 mining country. Some twenty mines have 
 been, or are being, worked in the vicini- 
 ty, and yield remunerative returns. Gold 
 114 
 
 Hill, a large mine, is about ten miles dis- 
 tant in an easterly direction. 
 
 Charlotte (223 miles). Hotel, 
 Mansion Sonse. — This is a thriving town 
 on Sugar Creek, 158 miles west-southwest 
 of Raleigh. Distant from Chsuleston, 
 237 mUes ; from Columbia, S. C., 109 
 miles. The town lies in the midst of the 
 gold-region of the State, and is the seat 
 of a United States assay-office. Somo 
 interesting historical memories are awak- 
 ened at Charlotte. It was here that the 
 patriots of Mecklenburg County assem- 
 bled in convention, in 1775, and boldly 
 passed a series of resolutions, declaring 
 themselves independent of the British 
 crown, thus anticipating by a year the 
 immortal Declaration of '76. The British 
 troops occupied the town in 1780, and 
 for a little while it was the headquarters 
 of the American forces. Here General 
 Greene took command of the Southern 
 army from General Gates, fifty days after 
 the departure of Comwallis. Charlotte 
 is the northern terminus of the Atlanta 
 cfc Sichmond Air-ZAne Raiiway, which is 
 just finished, and which is over 100 miles 
 shorter than the old route by way of Co- 
 lumbia. 
 
 Taking the cais here on the Western 
 North Carolina Railway, the traveller 
 may go to Statesville, and thence on to 
 Old Fort and other places of interest. 
 He will also pass en route Davidson Col- 
 lege, one of the principal educational in- 
 stitutions in the State. 
 
 MOUTE IV. 
 
 QOLDSBORO' TO MOREHSAD CITY. 
 Via Atlantic & ITortfb Carolina RaMway. 
 
 Stations. — Goldsboro' (connects with 
 Wilmington & Weldon and North Caro- 
 lina Railways); La Grange, 13 miles; 
 Kinston, 26; Core Creek, 42; Newbem 
 (connects with steamers for l&evi York), 
 59 ; Havelock, 77 ; Morehead City (con- 
 nects with steamers for New York and 
 steam-ferry to Beaufort), 96. 
 
 Kinston (26 miles), a town of little 
 significance, and interesting only as a h- 
 eale of some of the stirring skirmishes of 
 the late war. 
 
 WcOT^toern (59 miles), a pleasant old 
 town of about 5,000 inhabitants, is at 
 
Beaitfobi.] 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Dismal Swahf. 
 
 the confluence of the Neuse and the Trent 
 Rivers, midway on the Atlantic coast of 
 the State, 50 miles above Pamlico Sound. 
 It is on the line of the Atlantic & North 
 Carolina Railway, which extends from 
 Goldsboro' to Morehead City, opposite 
 Beaufort. Distance from Goldsboro', 59 
 miles; from Morehead City, 36 miles. 
 This place was attacked and captured 
 during the late war by the forces under 
 General Burnside, March 14, 1861, after 
 a sharp engagement of four hours. 
 
 When settled by the Swiss and Ger- 
 mans it received the name of New Berne, 
 and was once called the " Athens of North 
 Carolina." It contained many elegant 
 mansions and gardens, but these have 
 mostly disappeared. The first printing- 
 press in the State was introduced here 
 in 1764. Newbem is the landing-place 
 for a line of steamers from New York. 
 
 ISeanfbrt (95 miles) is at the mouth 
 of Newport River, 168 miles east-south- 
 east of Raleigh, and 11 miles northwest 
 of Cape Lookout. The harbor, the best 
 in the State, was much frequented by 
 the several naval expeditions fitted out 
 against Fort Fisher, Wilmington, and 
 other points on the coast. Fort Macon, 
 at the entrance of the harbor, is worthy 
 a visit. The beach iu the vicinity affords 
 fine bathing, and it is a favorite summer 
 resort. 
 
 ROUTE r. 
 
 WILMINGTOK TO WADESBOBO. 
 
 Tia Wilmington, CharUMe <£ Bufheiford 
 Railway, 
 
 Stations. — ^Wilmington (connects with 
 Wilmington & Weldon and Wilmington 
 & Manchester Railways) : Marlville, 26 ; 
 Bladenboro', 54 ; Red Banks, 84 ; Rock- 
 ingham, IIY ; Peedee (connects with stages 
 for Charlotte, N. C), 123 ; LUesviUe, 135 ; 
 Wadesboro, 140. 
 
 The object of this line is to open railway 
 communication with the rich southern 
 counties of the State, and eventually to 
 form a connection with the Tennessee 
 route and the great thoroughfares of the 
 South and West. There are no points of 
 present interest on the road. It is being 
 pushed forward rapidly, however, and in 
 time promises to be an important outlet 
 for the West. 
 
 OTHBB POINTS OF INTEEKST. 
 
 Fayetteville is at the head of 
 navigation on Cape Fear River, 60 miles 
 south of Raleigh, and 100 miles above 
 Wilmington. Reached at present by 
 railroad from Raleigh, and by stage 
 from the Wilmington & Weldon Railway 
 at Warsaw. Previous to the war it was 
 a thriving city of 8,000 inhabitants. Here 
 General Sherman halted his army from 
 the 12th to the 16th of March, 1865, 
 previous to crossing the river to Golds- 
 boro'. The arsenal and other important 
 buildings were destroyed. It is a large 
 manufacturing centre, but not one-half 
 of its immense water-power has yet been 
 utilized. Previous to the war there were 
 nine cotton-factories. These were de- 
 stroyed during the war, but five of 
 them have been rebuilt. Fayetteville is 
 also the depot of a large trade in naval 
 stores. This section of the State was 
 settled by the Scotch, and the town 
 originally bore the name of Campbell- 
 town, but after the visit of General La- 
 fayette to America it was changed. The 
 famous Flora McDonald, celebrated in 
 history as the preserver of Prince Charles 
 Edward after his invasion of Scotland 
 and defeat in the battle of CuUoden, lived 
 here for many years, but eventually re- 
 turned to Scotland, where she died in 
 1790. Her memory is still cherished by 
 the old residents, and her adventures are 
 the theme of many a fireside story. 
 
 A railroad connects Fayetteville with 
 the coal-fields and mining-region of the 
 State on Deep River, in Chatham and 
 Moore Counties, which will probably when 
 completed connect with Salisbury, N. C, 
 and Cheraw, S. C, thus opening a new 
 and important route to the south via 
 Columbia, S. C, and Augusta, Ga. 
 
 Itisma.1 STvamp. — ^The eastern 
 portion of North Carolina is reached 
 from Norfolk, Va., by way of the Dismal 
 Swamp Canal to EUzabeth City, and also 
 via the Chesapeake & Albemarle Canal 
 which connects the Albemarle and Pam- 
 lico Sounds. This great swamp lies part- 
 ly in Virginia and partly in North Caro- 
 lina. Its extent from north to south is 
 about 30 miles, and from east to west 
 about 10 miles. No less than five navi- 
 gable streams, and several creeks, have 
 116 
 
Dbummond's Lake.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [MOEGANTOK. 
 
 their rise in it. It is made subservient 
 to the wants of commerce by furnishing 
 an immense quantity of lumber for shin- 
 gles and other manufacturing purposes. 
 The Seaboard & Roanoke Railroad passes 
 across five miles of its northern border ; 
 and a stage-road runs parallel with the 
 canal from Deep Creek (a small village 
 on the northern verge) to Elizabeth. 
 
 Drummond's ZaSe, so called after a 
 hunter of that name who discovered it, is 
 a wild, romantic locality, in the centre of 
 the swamp. Leasing, in his " Field-Book 
 of the Revolution," speaks of the wonder 
 with which he contemplated " the magnif- 
 icent cypresses, junipers, oaks, gums, and 
 pines, that form the stately columns of 
 the grand and solemn aisles in this mys- 
 terious temple of Nature. Below waved 
 the tall reeds, and the tangled shrubbery 
 of the gall-bush and laurel ; and up the 
 massive trunks and spreading branches 
 of the forest monarchs crept the wood- 
 bine, the ivy, and the muscadine, cover- 
 ing with fret-work and gorgeous tracery 
 the broad arches from which hung the 
 sombre moss like trophy-banners in 
 ancient halls." 
 
 A hotel was erected on the shore of 
 the lake, and at one time it was a place 
 of considerable resort. Being on the line 
 between Virginia and North Carolina, it 
 was a sort of "Gretna Green," where 
 runaway matches were consummated. 
 Tradition tells of a young man who, on 
 the death of the girl he loved, lost his 
 reason. He suddenly disappeared, and 
 his friends never heard of him afterward. 
 In his ravings he often said she was not 
 dead, but gone to the Dismal Swamp, 
 and it is supposed he wandered into its 
 gloomy morasses and perished. Moore, 
 who visited Norfolk in 1804, on hearing 
 this tradition wrote his touchmg ballad 
 commencing : 
 
 " They made her a grave too cold and damp 
 For a soul so worm and truo ; 
 And she's gone to the Lake of the Dismal 
 
 Swamp, 
 Where all night long, by her flre-fly lamp. 
 She paddles her white canoe." 
 
 THE MOUNTAIF-EEGION. 
 
 North Carolina is celebrated for the ex- 
 tent and variety of its picturesque moun- 
 tain scenery. There are few places east of 
 the Rocky Mountains where Nature has 
 116 
 
 piled up her fantastic shapes, or poured 
 out her loveliest water-falls, with a more 
 lavish hand than here. A peculiar feat- 
 ure of this region is the number of 
 springs that are to be found in almost 
 every county, many of them possessing 
 the most remarkable curative properties, 
 and attracting from the neighboring States 
 troops of visitors in search of recupera- 
 tion and health. Chief among these may 
 be mentioned the Warm Springa^a. curi- 
 ous and remarkable phenomenon in Na- 
 ture, the waters of which are said to be a 
 sovereign cure for persons afflicted with 
 rheumatism. They are situated on the 
 bank of the French Broad River, and, al- 
 though not more than ten steps from that 
 beautiful stream, the water of the springs 
 ranges in temperature from 98° to 102°. 
 The water is as clear as crystal, and so 
 heavy that even a child may be thrown 
 into it with little danger of being drowned. 
 As a beverage it is quite palatable, and a 
 person may drink several quarts a day 
 and yet experience none but beneficial 
 effects. Besides rheumatism, the dis- 
 eases which it is thought to cure are 
 palsy and cutaneous affections. An 
 analysis of the water shows that it con- 
 tains free carbonic acid, free sulphu- 
 retted hydrogen, carbonic acid in combi- 
 nation with lime, sulphuric acid also in com- 
 bination with lime, and a trace of magnesia. 
 Excellent accommodations for the tourist 
 will be found on the spot, but it can only be 
 reached by a stage-drive of 25 or SO miles. 
 The routes thither will vary with the tastes 
 of the tourist. One of the most conven- 
 ient of these is by way of the Western 
 North Carolina Railway. The ears may 
 be taken at Salisbury to Morganton or 
 Old Fort, a distance of 80 miles, whence 
 stages connect with Asheville. Another 
 stage leaves Asheville in the morning, and 
 arrives at the Springs in time for dinner ; 
 or, takmg the East Tennessee & Virginia 
 Railroad, the tourist may connect with the 
 Springs by stage at Greenville, Tennessee. 
 The whole of the route is travelled by 
 daylight. 
 
 morganton, on the Western North 
 Carolina Railway, is a place that will be 
 appreciated by every admirer of mountain 
 scenery. It is a town of considerable age, 
 and was named in honor of General Mor- 
 gan, of Revolutionary fame. It is situated 
 
LiNNTiiLE Falls.] 
 
 KOETH CAROLINA. 
 
 [ASBETILLE. 
 
 1,100 feet above the level of the sea, and 
 among its inhabitants are the descendants 
 of many of the most distinguished patri- 
 ots of the Carolinas. The view from any 
 eminence is simply beautiful. In a ride 
 of about 15 miles, westward from Mor- 
 ganton, the PiedmorU Springs are found. 
 The waters of these springs are sulphur 
 and chalybeate, and, though famous in the 
 neighborhood for their healing properties, 
 the remoteness of the location has pre- 
 vented it from being a place of popular 
 resort. In this neighborhood the Hawk's 
 Bell and Table Sock are situated. The 
 latter Is a high, bleak rock rising out of 
 the top of a mountain to the height of 
 over 200 feet. It can easily be ascended, 
 and upon the summit there is about an 
 acre of rock in a smooth surface. An 
 excellent spring gushes out of a little hol- 
 low on one side, and affords refreshment 
 to the beholder who may choose to Imger 
 in the enjoyment of the rich feast that 
 Nature has spread before him. 
 
 liinnf ille falls. — In the vicinity 
 of Horganton, say 25 miles distant, is a 
 curiosity of Nature which, for its grand 
 snbUmity, is said to be equal to any thing 
 in our country. Mr. Lanman, in his work 
 on the Alleghany Mountains, thus graph- 
 ically describes the Falls : " They are lit- 
 erally embosomed among the mountains, 
 and, long before seeing them, you hear 
 their musical roar. The scenery about 
 them is as wild as it was a hundred years 
 ago. Not even a pathway has been made 
 to guide the tourist into the stupendous 
 gorge where they reign supreme. 
 
 " At the point in question, the Linnville 
 is about 150 feet broad, and, though its wa- 
 ters have come down their parent moun- 
 tains at a most furious speed, they here 
 make a more desperate plimge than they 
 ever dared to attempt before, when they 
 find themselves in a deep pool, and sud- 
 denly hemmed in by a barrier of gray 
 granite which cresses the entire bed of 
 the river. In their desperation, however, 
 they finally work a passage through the 
 solid rock, and, after filling another hol- 
 low with foam, they make a desperate 
 Ipap of at least 100 feet, and find a rest- 
 ing-place in an immense pool which one 
 might easily imagine to be bottomless. 
 And then, as if attracted by the astonish- 
 ing feats performed by the waters, a num- 
 
 ber of lofty and exceedingly fantastic 
 cliff's have gathered themselves together 
 in the immediate neighborhood, and are 
 ever peering over each other's shoulders 
 into the depths below." 
 
 The Falls are about five miles from 
 Childsville. An idea 6f the height of the 
 adjacent cliff's may be formed when it is 
 known that Linnville Eiver runs nearly 
 through the centre of a mountain of the 
 same name, which is about 5,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea ! 
 ^ Mr. Colton, the author of "The Moun- 
 tain Scenery of North Carolina," a work 
 from which is gleaned many of the facts 
 here mentioned, describes an immense 
 cave in this vicinity visited by him, but 
 which is comparatively unknown. The 
 distance to which he penetrated was over 
 a mile. He found arched chambers beau- 
 tifully roofed with stalactites, natural stair- 
 ways, pools of water, and a flowing river, 
 and, among evidences of a once animated 
 creation, a petrified grasshopper, bats, 
 and traces of mice. 
 
 AsheTniUe is the converging point 
 of all the roads west of the Blue Ridge. 
 Indeed, it may be called the key-stone 
 of the region. It is situated in a valley 
 through which fiows the French Broad 
 River, and commands one of the finest 
 mountain-views in America. The town 
 is adofned with many beautiful private 
 residences, and the people are noted for 
 their hospitality and cultivated taste. 
 The hotel accommodations are superior, 
 and large numbers of tourists annually 
 find their way thither to enjoy the re- 
 freshing atmosphere and recreations of 
 the neighborhood. 
 
 There are four routes through which 
 Asheville may be reached : two in North 
 Carolina, one from South Carolina, and 
 one from Tennessee. Attention has been 
 called to the first of these, via Morganton 
 — the traveller passing through Swan- 
 nanda Gap — a lovely journey. The sec- 
 ond is by way of Charlotte, Lincolnton, 
 Shelby, and Rutherfordton. Near Shelby 
 will be found Wilson^t: Springs, famous in 
 the South as a summer resort. This route 
 lies through Hickory Nut Gap, the scen- 
 ery of which is alleged by some European 
 travellers to be equal in beauty and grand- 
 eur to that of the Alps. The entire length 
 of the Gap is about nine miles, the last 
 
 nn 
 
C^esab's Head.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Fbench Bboad River. 
 
 five being watered by the Rocky Broad 
 River. That portion of the gorge, which 
 might be called the gateway, is at the 
 eastern extremity, where the width is not 
 more than half a mile. The highest 
 bluff is on the south side, and, though 
 rising to the height of about 1,500 feet, 
 is nearly perpendicular. Midway up its 
 front stands an isolated rock looming 
 against the sky, which is of a circular 
 form, and resembles the principal turret 
 of a stupendous castle. A stream of wa- 
 ter tumbles over one portion of this im- 
 mense cliff, and falls into an apparently 
 inaccessible well ov pool. Other bits of 
 attractive mountain scenery are to be en- 
 joyed along the route, prominent among 
 which are the Cascades or whirlpools — 
 singular formations that are said never to 
 have been satisfactorily sounded. 
 
 From South Carolina, the traveller may 
 conveniently reach Asheville by the way 
 of Greenville, Saluda Gap, Flat Rock, and 
 Hendersonville. The staging is only about 
 60 mUes. Still another road is through 
 Jones's Gap, which enables the tourist to 
 take 
 
 Cesar's Heah en route. This is a lofty 
 mountain with one side a precipice of great 
 height, just back of which a fine hotel is 
 situated. As may be inferred, the view 
 from the summit is extensive and grand. 
 
 Leaving Csesar's Head, the traveller 
 passes near a rich mineral and agricul- 
 tural region, known as Cashier's Tallet. 
 It is hemmed in on three sides by tall 
 mountains, and watered by the upper wa- 
 ters of the French Broad River. On the 
 edge of this valley is Whiteside Mountain, 
 which is pronounced by those who have 
 seen it to be a great curiosity of Nature. 
 It rises from the Blue Ridge to the height 
 of 1,600 feet, with a very decided inclina- 
 tion forward at the top. In this rock is 
 a cave, descended to from the top by a 
 slight, winding path, and in this cave — 
 1,200 feet above the valley — in the side 
 of the steep rock, is the trunk of a tree 
 as large as a man's body. 
 
 To reach the mountain region of North 
 Carolina from the north, follow the great 
 southern route from Washington, via the 
 Orange & Alexandria, Virginia & Tennes- 
 see, and the East Tennessee & Virginia 
 Railway, via Lynchburg to Greenville, or 
 Bristol. 1 
 
 118 
 
 Having reached Asheville, and been 
 comfortably located, the tourist may 
 spend days and weeks among the pictu- 
 resque places within an area of 35 or 40 
 miles, hunting, fishing, or exploring the 
 caves, mines, Indian mounds, and other 
 points of interest. 
 
 Black mountaiii, 20 miles 
 northeast of Asheville, is a semicircular 
 mass of land, about 20 miles in length, 
 deriving its name from the dark-green 
 foliage of the balsam fir-trees which 
 line its top and sides. Mitchell's Peak, 
 near here, 6,732 feet high, is the most 
 elevated point east of the Rocky Moun- 
 tain ranges. The scene from the sum- 
 mit is one of surpassing grandeur. The 
 Sawh's Bill, in Burke County, is a stu- 
 pendous projecting cliff, lookmg down 
 1,600 feet upon the waters of a rushing 
 river. The Table Sock, a few miles below 
 the Hawk's Bill, rises cone-shaped, 2,500 
 feet above the valley of the Catawba Riv- 
 er. The Oinger Cake Bock, also in Burke 
 County, is a singular pile, upon the sum- 
 mit of the Ginger Cake Mountain. It is 
 a natural stone structure, in the form of 
 an inverted pyramid, 29 feet in height. 
 It is crowned with a slab, 32 feet long 
 and two feet thick, which projects half 
 its length beyond the edge of the pyra- 
 mid upon which it is so strangely poised. 
 Though seeming just ready to fall, noth- 
 ing could be more secure. A fine view 
 down the dark ravine below is command- 
 ed at this point. 
 
 Xlie French Broad. RiTcr, 
 in its wild mountain course of 40 miles or 
 more, from Asheville to the Tennes.see 
 line, abounds in picturesque scenes. It is 
 a rapid stream, and in aU its course lies 
 deep down in mountain gorges — now 
 foaming over its rocky pathway, and 
 now sleeping, sullen and dark, at the 
 base of huge precipitous cliffs. A fiue 
 highway follows its banks, and often 
 trespasses upon its waters, as it is crowd- 
 ed by the overhanging cliffs. Near the 
 Tennessee boundary, and close by the 
 Warm Springs, this road lies in the 
 shadow of the bold mountain precipices 
 known as the Painted Rocks and the 
 Chimneys. The Painted Bocks have a 
 perpendicular elevation of between 200 
 and 300 feet. Their name is derived 
 from the supposed Indian pictures yet to 
 
PlLOI HOUNTAIN.] 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Pilot Modntaw. 
 
 be seen upon them. The Chimneys are 
 lofty cliffs, broken at their summits into 
 detached piles of rock, bearing much the 
 likeness of colossal chimneys, a. fancy 
 greatly improved by the fireplace-look- 
 ing recesses at their base, and which 
 serve as turnouts in the narrow cause- 
 way. The picture embracing the angle 
 in the river, beyond the Chimney Books, 
 is especially fine. The Indian name of 
 the French Broad is Taehca. Under this 
 title Mr. W. Gihnore Simms has woven 
 into beautiful verse a romantic legend of 
 the river. " The tradition of the Chero- 
 kces," he says, " asserts the existence of 
 a siren in the French Broad, who im- 
 plores the hunter to the stream, and 
 strangles him in her embrace, or so in- 
 fects him with some mortal disease, that 
 he invariably perishes." 
 
 Pilot nSouiitalii. Among the 
 diversified scenery of the eastern portion 
 of North CaroUna, Pilot Mountain and its 
 
 surroundings present fine attractions to 
 the tourist. It is reached from Greens- 
 boro' (see p. 114) by a line of stages to 
 Salem, a quiet, but pretty town, where a 
 private conveyence may be had for the 
 remainder of the journey. The mountain 
 rises like an isolated pile in the midst of 
 a plain, 3,000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. Its position and form, however (not 
 height), make it an object of interest, the 
 altar-like mass of rock, which forms the 
 summit, reminding one of some gigantic 
 work of art whose regular outlines might 
 have been cut by a Titan. This region 
 of the State is likewise supplied with 
 many valuable springs of sulphur, iron, 
 and alum water, which, in the summer 
 time, are pleasant places of resort, but, 
 in the absence of railway facilities, are 
 not so popular as they undoubtedly will 
 become when the iron-horse penetrates 
 these lovely valleys. 
 
 119 
 
South Carolina.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [South Carolina. 
 
 SOUTH OAEOLINA. 
 
 South Cahohna is one of the most In- 
 teresting States in the Union, in its legen- 
 dary and historical aspects, in its social 
 characteristics, and in its physical fea- 
 tures. Upon its settlement by the English, 
 in 1670, John Locke, the famous philoso- 
 pher, framed a constitution for the young 
 colony, after the pattern of that of Plato's 
 Model Republic. It is one of the original 
 States of the American Union. It is tri- 
 angular in shape, having a coast-line of 
 about 200 miles for its base, with an ex- 
 treme length and breadth, each of about 
 210 miles, including an area of about 29,- 
 S85 square miles. The first settlement 
 was at Port Royal. Later (1690), the na- 
 tive poetic humor of the people received 
 a new stimulus from the influx of French 
 Huguenots, driven from their own land 
 by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
 South Carolina remained a proprietary 
 government until 1719, when it became a 
 royal colony. The chivalrio spirit of the 
 people was fostered by the wars which 
 they shared with the Georgians, under 
 Oglethorpe, against the Spaniards in 
 Florida, and by the gallant struggles in 
 which they were perpetually involved 
 with the Yemassee and other Indian 
 tribes who lived on their borders. Next 
 came the long and painful trial of the 
 Revolution, in which these resolute peo- 
 ple were among the first and most arden(t 
 to take up arms in the cause of right— 
 the most persistent and self-sacrificing in 
 the prosecution of the contest, under every 
 discouragement, and the last to leave the 
 bloody and devastating fight. The colony 
 took an active part in exciting and carry- 
 ing on the revolt of the colonies, and fur- 
 nished upward of 6,000 troops to the 
 Federal forces. Among the conspicuous 
 fights which took place within the limits 
 of the State were those of Fort Moul- 
 trie, Charleston, Camden, King's Moun- 
 120 
 
 tain, Eutaw Springs, and Cowpens. The 
 State was occupied by the British during 
 the greater part of 1780-'81. 
 
 South Carolina went further than any 
 other State' in asserting the rights and 
 powers of the sovereign States under the 
 Constitution in opposition to the Federal 
 Government, and was the first to rise in 
 rebeUion after the election of Mr. Lincoln 
 to the Presidency, in 1860. The Ordi- 
 nance of Secession was passed December 
 20, 1860, and on February 18, 1865, after 
 more than four years of bloody war, the 
 city of Charleston was occupied by the 
 United States soldiers, and the national 
 flag again floated over the city and Fort 
 Sumter. 
 
 The natural aspect of the Palmetto 
 State is exceedingly varied : on the sea- 
 board of the south, broad savannas and 
 deep, dank lagoons, covered with teem- 
 ing fields of rice, and fruitful in a thou- 
 sand changes of tropical vegetation ; in 
 the middle districts, great undulating 
 meadows, overspread with the luxuriant 
 maize, or white with snowy carpetings 
 of cotton ; and, again, to the northward, 
 bold mountain ranges, valleys, and water- 
 falls. The poet has thus recorded its at- 
 tractions : 
 
 "The sunny land, the sunny land, where Nature 
 
 has displayed 
 Her l^irest works, with lavish hand, in hill, in 
 
 vale, and glade; 
 Her streams flow on in melody, thiongh &ir and 
 
 frnitftil plains ; 
 And, from the mountains to the seu, with beauty 
 
 plenty reigns." 
 
 Among the rivers of South Carolina, 
 the Savannah, Great Pedee, the Santee 
 and its affluents, the Congaree and Wa- 
 teree, Saluda and Broad Rivers, Edisto 
 and Combahee, together affording an in- 
 land navigation of 2,400 miles, are the 
 most important. 
 
 Minerals. — ^Abundant building mate- 
 
Soil. Am) Productions.] 
 
 SOUTH OAKOLINA. 
 
 [Chaiilestox. 
 
 erial is found in the State, in the gran- 
 ites and sienites of Richland, Kershaw, 
 Lexington, Fairfield, and Abbeville coun- 
 ties, in the marbles of Spartanburg and 
 Laurens, and in the gneiss of Pickens 
 and York. The other earthy minerals 
 are mica slate, soapatone, porcelain clay 
 of a very fine quality, ochres, limestone, 
 — but no coal. Gold has been found 
 in large quantities, and iron of the beat 
 quality is found within the limits of the 
 State. 
 
 The climate is mild ai^d genial, some- 
 what similar to that of Southern Europe, 
 and its productions are for the most part 
 the same ; but many of the productions 
 peculiar to its latitude in the East flourish 
 la South Carolina, such as cotton and 
 rice, and some of the tropical fruits. 
 
 Sml and Prodiudions. — ^According to 
 Kuffin and Tuomey (the agricultural sur- 
 veyors of the State) there are six va- 
 rieties of aoil in South Carolina : 1. Tide 
 swamp, devoted to the culture of rice. 
 2. Liland swamp,, to rice, cotton, corn, 
 peas, etc. 3. Salt-marah, to long cotton. 
 4. Oak and pine, to long cotton, corn, 
 potatoes, etc. 5. Oak and hickory, to 
 short cotton, com, etc. ; and, 6. Pine 
 barren!?, to fruit, vegetables, etc. The 
 swamps near the coast, covering 2,000 
 square miles, are capable of drainage, 
 and of inexhaustible fertility. According 
 to the recent returns made to the Agri- 
 cultural Bureau, the increase of the 
 acreage of corn for the year 1871 over 
 that of 1870 was 12 per cent. 
 
 Forest. Trees. — On the islands are 
 found the live-oak, pine, palmetto, and 
 laurel; in the lower and pine-barren 
 district, pitch-pine ; and, in the middle 
 and upper regions, oak, hickory, and 
 pine. The palmetto is the most char- 
 acteristic of the trees, and it grows in 
 such abundance, especially in the south- 
 ern portion, that South Carolina is known 
 throughout the TTuion as the " Palmetto 
 State." 
 
 Commerce. — ^The exports of South 
 Carolina are large. They are principally 
 cotton, rice (of the latter more than all 
 the other States of the Union together), 
 phosphates, lumber, and naval stores. 
 In 1871 there were exported of cotton 
 from Charleston and Georgetown to 
 foreign ports, upland, 170,543 bales ; 
 6 
 
 Sea Island, 5,107; to coaatwise ports, 
 upland, 172,766; Sea Island, 7,027; 
 stock September 1, 1871, 3,443. Total, 
 358,876 bales, from which we deduct, 
 received from Florida, upland, 1,593 ; 
 Sea Island, 4,698; from Savannah, Sea 
 Island, 494 ; stock September 1, 1870, 
 1,399. Total, 8,148 bales, showing the 
 crop to be, in 1871, 850,692. 
 
 JPopalation, etc. — The population of 
 the State in 1860 was 703,708, of whom 
 291,300 were whites, 9,914 free blacks, 
 402,406 slaves, and 88 Indians. In 1870 
 the population was 728,000, of whom 
 415,816 are blacks. The total valuation 
 of real estate and personal property in 
 1860 was $489,319,128 ; in 1870 it was 
 only $164,409,491, and it is now even 
 less. In 1872 there were 1,290 milea 
 of railway in the State. 
 
 CHAIlI.ESTOir. 
 
 Charleston, the metropolis of South 
 Carolina, seven miles from the ocean, 
 is picturesquely situated at the con- 
 fluence of the Ashley and Cooper Riv- 
 ers, which combine to form its harbor. 
 This harbor is spacious, and sufficiently 
 deep to admit vessels drawing 17 feet 
 of water. Because the city lies low, and 
 seems to rise out of the waters as one 
 sails up to it, it has been called the 
 American Venice. " It may be doubted," 
 says a recent writer in Applelons^ Journal, 
 " if one would think of this comparison if 
 the guidfe-books did not suggest it. There 
 are charms enough in the American city 
 to please even an experienced traveller, 
 but one would scarcely find his apprecia- 
 tion of them enhanced by recalling the 
 wonders of the Bride of the Adriatic. 
 If in no true sense a Venice, Charleston 
 yet rises with charming effect from the 
 sea. The long, palm-studded shores of 
 the bay, the islands and forts that dot 
 its surface, the mansions that front the 
 waters, and the spires that lift to the 
 akiea, all make up a very pretty picture. 
 
 " The first impression the streets of 
 Charleston give is that of retiring respect- 
 ability. There are no splendid avenues, 
 no imposing pubUc structures ; but a few 
 fine old churches, and many noble 
 private mansions, standing in a sort of 
 dingy stateliness amid their embowering 
 121 
 
FOBT SUMTEB.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUB. 
 
 [Fom Suimk. 
 
 magnolias, command your attention. Our 
 New-York custom, derived from our 
 Dutch ancestors, of painting our brick 
 fronts, is not in vogue here, where the 
 houses have the sombre but rich toning 
 that age alone can give when its slow 
 pencillings are never disturbed by the 
 rude intrusion of the painter's brush. 
 The Charleston mansions are nearly 
 always built with gable-end to the street. 
 At one side rises a tier of open verandas, 
 into the lower of which the main en- 
 trance to the building is placed. Usually, 
 after the English fashion, a high brick 
 wall encloses the grounds of the house, 
 and it is only through an open gate-way 
 that one catches a glimpse of flowers, 
 and shrubs, and vines, that bloom and 
 expand within the enclosure. But the 
 rich dark green of the magnolia half 
 screens the unsmoothed brick walls far 
 above, and seems to hold the ancient 
 structure in the hush of venerable 
 repose." 
 
 Charleston is the most prosperous city 
 in the South at the present time ; her 
 exports for the year ending August 31, 
 18'72, amounting to $37,2'75,000, or four 
 or five times as much as in 1865-'6. The 
 burned district is being rapidly built up, 
 and fine blocks and residences are going 
 up all over the city. 
 
 Directly at the entrance of the harbor 
 stands Castle Pinckney, a fortress which 
 covers an ancient shoal. A little south 
 of Pinckney is Fort Ripley, a small square 
 work, built of Palmetto logs, and filled 
 with paving stones, built in 1862. On 
 the sea-line rises Fort Moultrie, famous, 
 as Fort Sullivan, in beating off, and 
 nearly destroying, the British fleet, under 
 Sir Peter Parker, in 1776. On the 
 eastern extremity of the same island 
 (Sullivan's) on which Fort Moultrie 
 stands may yet be traced the outline of 
 the fortress which, under Colonel Thomp. 
 son, with 700 Carolina rifles, defeated Sir 
 Henry Clinton at the very moment when 
 Moultrie drove Parker away from the 
 South. 
 
 Fort Sumter. — Within the harbor the 
 most conspicuous object, and the one also 
 of commanding interest, are the ruinfed 
 walls of Sumter. This fort, with that of 
 Moultrie, once constituted the chief de- 
 fences of Charleston ; and It must always 
 123 
 
 be famous in history as the theatre on 
 which was enacted the opening scene of 
 the greatest civil war of modem times. 
 The events and operations of which these 
 massive and imposing ruins have formed 
 the chief centre and culminating point are 
 too fresh in the public recollection to re- 
 quire more than a brief retrospect in these 
 pages. The fort, which is an octagonal 
 work of soUd masonry, stands in the 
 middle of the harbor. The armament 
 consisted, at the time of the attack, of 
 140 guns. It was occupied by Major 
 Anderson, commanding the United States 
 troops in Charleston harbor, on the night 
 of December 26, 1860, and at noon of the 
 27th the Union flag was hoisted over it. 
 On the 11th January following. Gov- 
 ernor Picken^ demanded a surrender of 
 the fort, which being refused,i prepara- 
 tions were commenced to attack it. 
 
 " On the 12th day of April, at half-past 
 four o'clock in the mornings" writes Mr. 
 Pollard, in his ' Southern History of tho 
 War,' " fire was opened upon Fort Sumter. 
 The firing was deliberate, and was con- 
 tinued, without interruption; for twelve 
 hours. The iron battery at Cumming's 
 Point did the most effective service, 
 perceptibly injuring the walls of the for- 
 tification, while the floating battery dis- 
 mounted two of the parapet guns. The 
 shell batteries were served with skill and 
 effect, shells being thrown into the fort 
 every twenty minutes. The fort had 
 replied steadily during the day. About 
 dark its fire fell off, while ours was con- 
 tinued at intervals during the night. The 
 contest had been watched during the day 
 by excited and anxious citizens from 
 every available point of observation in 
 Charleston — ^the battery, the shipping in 
 the harbor, and the steeples of churches — 
 and, as night closed the illuminations of 
 the shells, as they coursed the air, added 
 a strange sublimity to the scene to men 
 who bad never before witnessed the fiery 
 splendors of * bombardment. The next 
 morning, at seven o'clock, the fort 
 resumed its fire, doing no damage of 
 consequence. 
 
 "A short while thereafter, the fort w^ 
 discovered to be on fire, and, through the 
 smoke and glare, its flag was discovered 
 at half-mast, as a signal of distress. The 
 Federal fleet, which was off the bar, con- 
 
FoET Sumter.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 Sullitan's Island. 
 
 trary to all expectations, remained quietly 
 where it was ; they did not remoTe from 
 their anchorage or fire a gun. In the 
 mean time, the conflagration, which had 
 seized upon the officers' quarters and 
 barracks at the fort, continued ; it no 
 longer responded to our fire, which was 
 kept up with an anxious look-out for 
 tokens of surrender ; its garrison, black 
 and begrimed with smoke, were employed 
 iu efforts to extinguish the conflagration, 
 and in some instances had to keep them- 
 selves lying upon their faces to avoid 
 death from suffocation. 
 
 " During the height of the conflagration, 
 a boat was dispatched by General Beaure- 
 gard to Major Anderson, with offers of 
 assistance in extinguishing the fire. Be- 
 fore it could reach the fort, the long- 
 expected flag of truce had been hoisted ; 
 and the welcome event was instantly 
 announced in every part of the city by 
 the ringing of bells, the pealing of cannon, 
 the shout of couriers dashing through 
 the streets, and by every indication of 
 general rejoicing." 
 
 The present condition of the work suffi- 
 ciently attests the warmth of the second 
 attack, August, 1863. It will well repay 
 a visit, there being many points of inter- 
 est within the walls which once seen will 
 not be easily forgotten. 
 
 On James Island are seen the ruins of 
 old Fort Johnson. On the opposite 
 headlands of the Haddrill you may trace 
 the old lines which helped in the defence 
 of the city eighty years ago, but which 
 are now mostly covered by the smart 
 village of Mount Pleasant. These points, 
 north, east, and south, with the city 
 lying west of them, bound the harbor, 
 leaving an ample circuit of bay — coursing 
 over which, from south to north, the eye 
 pursues the long stretch of Cooper River, 
 the Etiwando of the red men, along the 
 banks of which, for many miles, the sight 
 is refreshed by noble rice-fields, and in 
 many places by the mansions and home- 
 steads of the former planters. Steamers 
 ply up this river, and return the same 
 day, affording a good bird's-eye view of 
 the settlements, along a very picturesque 
 shore fine on either hand. It was up 
 this river that Mr. Webster distinguished 
 himself by shooting an alligator, or rather 
 shooting at him — the alligator diving at 
 
 the shot, and leaving the matter, suffi- 
 ciently doubtful to enable an old lawyer 
 and politician to make a plausible case of 
 it. Standing on James Island, or on the 
 battlements of Fort Sumter, the eye notes 
 the broad stream of the Ashley, winding 
 from west of the city, round its southern- 
 most point, to mingle with the waters of 
 the Cooper. The Ashley was anciently 
 a region of great wealth and magnificence. 
 It is still a river of imposing aspect — 
 broad, capacious, with grassy, well-wooded 
 banks, beyond which you may still behold 
 some antique and noble edifices. Within 
 the harbor, if you can spare a couple of 
 days, you may find them agreeably 
 employed, especially in the summer 
 months, by a trip to Fort Sumter, to 
 James Island, to Mount Pleasant, and 
 Sullivan's Island. The two latter places 
 are favorite and healthy retreats for the 
 citizens of Charleston in midsummer. 
 
 Sullivan's Island is fast becoming the 
 "Long Branch" of South Carolina, and 
 is already graced with many handsome 
 little cottages that are occupied during 
 the summer solstice by the wealthy 
 citizens of Charleston and the neighbor- 
 hood. Choice building-lots may be pur- 
 chased from the town council for ten 
 dollars each and the trifling expenses of 
 survey, on condition that the same are 
 built upon within one year. The entire 
 Island was originally donated by General 
 Sullivan for the purposes of a watering- 
 place, the gift being subject to the qual- 
 ifications mentioned. Before the war, 
 the " Moultrie House "was known far and 
 wide as a summer resort; the TJ. S. 
 officers attached to the garrison, the 
 Government band, the evening parades 
 on the beach, the hundreds of visitors on 
 the island, and the wonderful coolness 
 of the evening temperature, all combining 
 to make the place attractive. During 
 the war nearly every house was destroyed, 
 including the hotel, and in 1865 the 
 Island looked bare and desolate. It is 
 now recovering much of its former 
 prestige, however ; money is being judi- 
 ciously expended in erecting and beauti- 
 fying homes, and Charleston will soon 
 possess a " suburb by the sea" that will 
 have few equals on the Atlantic coast. 
 A steamboat plies regularly every hour ' 
 between the city, Mount Pleasant, and 
 123 
 
Charlesto^t.] 
 
 SOUTHEBN TOUE. 
 
 [Ohableston. 
 
 SuUlyan's Island, and during the summer 
 it is thronged with passengers seeking 
 recreation in this direction. The " Mount 
 Pleasant Hotel," once an ample, coOl, and 
 well-kept house, with the usual adjuncts 
 of bowling and billiard-saloons, has not 
 yet quite recovered from the effects of its 
 occupancy as a military hospital, but the 
 forests in the immediate neighborhood 
 afford find drives and picturesque ram- 
 bles. 
 
 The beach affords fine surf bathing, 
 fishing, and a pleasant drive for nearly 
 three miles, to the eastern end of the 
 island, where the sea, angrily struggling 
 with shoals to press into the estuaries 
 behind Sullivan and Long Islands, keeps 
 up a perpetual and not unpleasant roar. 
 Other objects of interest, and points for 
 recreation and healthful enjoyment, pre- 
 sent themselves in the tour of the harbor, 
 which no one visiting this now memor- 
 able city ought to omit seeing. 
 
 We have spoken of Fort Moultrie as a 
 spot distinguished by one of the greatest 
 battles of the Revolution ; but the chron- 
 icles of Charleston show, besides, a long 
 series of gallant struggles with powerful 
 enemies. She has been threatened by thfe 
 red men, who, in formidable alliance, 
 brought down their numerous tribes to 
 her very gates. She has been assailed by 
 fleets of the Spaniards and the French. 
 Her colonial existence was one long strug- 
 gle with the Spaniards and the savages. 
 In the Eevolutionary contest she took a 
 first and most distinguished part agairist 
 the Crown; was thrice assailed by the 
 British, and only succumbed finally to 
 their arms, after a leaguer of two months, 
 and when half the city was in ruins, and 
 the people were suffering from famine. 
 She has contributed some of the most 
 able and patriotic men to the Republic, 
 in arts, arms, statesmanship, science, and 
 literature. Charleston is also the birth- 
 place of Christopher Gadsden, William 
 Moultrie, Charles Cotesworth and Thomas 
 Pinokney, Henry Middleton, Arthur Mid- 
 dleton, Thomas Lynch, John and Edward 
 Rutledge, William Lowndes, Joel R. Poin- 
 jett, Stephen Elliott, Hugh S. Legar6, 
 Holbrook R. Y. Haynes, and scores be- 
 sides, who have left honorable memorials, 
 national as well as sectiqnal, of which she 
 may be justly proud. The descendants I 
 124 
 
 of these great men still survive, and serve 
 to give character to society, and to add 
 to the attractions of the city. Let the 
 traveller, if he can, give a week to Charles- 
 ton, and he will find its scenery, its so- 
 ciety, its characteristics, quite sufficient 
 to gratify his curiosity and thoughts dur- 
 ing that period ; but, if he can appropri- 
 ate two days only, we have shown him 
 how these may be profitably spent. 
 
 Charleston was originally founded about 
 1670. It was subsequently laid out on a 
 plan furnished from England, which was 
 then considered of a very magnificent 
 scale ; but the streets were narrow, and 
 no provision was made for public squares. 
 In this respect the city is still very de- 
 ficient. But the general style of buildmg, 
 which gives to each private dwelling a 
 large court of its own, with trees and 
 verandas, renders the want of public 
 squares less sensibly felt. The city is 
 regularly laid out, and extends about two 
 miles in length, and nearly the same in 
 breadth. The streets, which run parallel 
 to each other from river to river, are gen- 
 erally broad, and lined with beautiful 
 shade-trees. But, wherever the visitor 
 may go, whichever way he may turn, the 
 charred and blackened ruins of many of 
 the proud city's most noted buildings con- 
 front the traveller at every step. Scarce 
 a tower or steeple in the city that was not 
 riddled with shot or shell, while the fierce 
 conflagration of 1862 madC' a broad gap 
 from river to river which it will require 
 years to refill. Despite the terrible blow 
 which the city has received, nothing can 
 stay the generous impulses nor lessen the 
 hospitality of its citizens ; and there are 
 few places, notwithstanding its altered 
 circumstances, which the educated and 
 unprejudiced traveller will feel greater re- 
 gret at leaving, than the City of the Sea. 
 
 CHUKCHES. 
 
 There are two churches at least in 
 Charleston that should be visited by the 
 tourist, St. Michael's and St. Philip's. 
 
 St. MichaePa Church is at the south- 
 east corner of Broad and Meeting Streets. 
 The prospect from the belfry is very fine. 
 It takes in the far stretch of sea and the 
 long, low shores ; there is Fort Sumter 
 far down the bay, and nearer the famous 
 Castle Pinckney, a fortress that stands 
 
Chahlestok.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [GlUSLESION. 
 
 ;ruard in the direct approach to the town. 
 The portion of the city which thi3 view 
 commands is its most ancient quarter. 
 Many of the buildings were erected in 
 colonial times, and up to the period of the 
 Revolution this comprised nearly the en- 
 tire city. The chimneys are of a quaint 
 fashion, and the roofs are mostly of 
 grooved red tiles. The wide street to the 
 left is the Charleston Wall Street, where 
 congregate all the banks and banking- 
 houses, brokers' offices, and law offices. 
 Here assemble the merchants and brokers; 
 here are effected those transactions in com- 
 merce and finance so dear to the heart of 
 the money-making world. ThebuiMing at 
 the foot of the street is the ancient cus- 
 tom-house, which during the recent war 
 was rudely hustled by many an irreverent 
 shell, unceremoniously battered by ball 
 and petard, and now stands a broken and 
 shattered reminiscence of by-gone belU- 
 gerency. This structure, which dates back 
 before the independence of the colony, is 
 dear to the Charlestonians. It has always 
 excited their patriotic sympathies, for 
 here during the Revolution the patriot 
 prisoners were confined, and from its 
 portals the heroic martyr Hayne was led 
 to execution. 
 
 The old buildings that the church looks 
 down upon are not more ancient than the 
 church itself. St. Michael's was built in 
 1752 — it is said from designs by a pupil 
 of Sir Christopher Wren. The tower is 
 considered very fine, and the situation of 
 the church makes the spire a conspicuous 
 object far out at sea. Its chimes are cele- 
 brated far and near for their age and 
 sweetness. During the siege of Charles- 
 ton in the late war, the spire was a mark 
 for the Federal artillerymen ; but, though 
 persistently shelled, it was struck but a 
 few times, and then only with slight in- 
 jury. 
 
 St. Philip'a Chwtcli (Episcopal) is situ- 
 ated in Church Street. This was the first 
 church establishment in Charleston ; but 
 the present structure, which is the third 
 erected by the parish, although of ven- 
 erable age, is yet not quite so old as St. 
 Michael's. The view from the spire is 
 fine ; but there is a keener interest in the 
 graveyard than even in the old church 
 itself, for here are met with at every turn 
 those family names that have so long been 
 
 associated in honor, not only with Charles- 
 ton, but with the whole country — Gads- 
 den, Rutledge, and Pinckney. In the 
 portion of the graveyard that lies across 
 the roadway is the tomb of Calhoun. It 
 consists of a plain granite slab, supported 
 by walls of brick, and for inscription has 
 simply the name of "Calhoun." The 
 remams of the statesman were removed 
 during the war, when Charleston was 
 threatened with capture, under a most 
 misjudged apprehension that the Union 
 soldiers would disturb them. They were 
 replaced in the spring of 1871. St. Phil- 
 ip's, with its embowering trees, its an- 
 cient gravestones, its scarred and broken 
 walls, its marks of hostile shells, its sur- 
 roundings of old buildings, the tiled roofs 
 of which show quaintly through the green 
 of the trees, affords a picture that is both 
 picturesque and pleasing. 
 
 St. Ji'inbar's (Catholic) Cathedral, or 
 rather the ruins of it — for the building 
 was destroyed during the great fire of 
 1862 — is situated in Broad Street. It 
 was one of the most elegant edifices in 
 Charleston, and the walls, turrets, and 
 niches still standing, make the view of it 
 one of the most picturesque and artistic 
 in America. 
 
 The Citadel Square (Baptist) Church 
 is a handsome building, with a large con- 
 gregation. The same may be said of 
 the Central (Presbyterian) Church on 
 Meeting Street. Grace Church (Episco- 
 pal) on Wentworth Street, where the 
 ereme de la crhne worship. St. LuTce^s 
 (Episcopal) Church; the Church of the 
 Holy Communion (Episcopal) ; St. Paul's 
 (Episcopal); St. Mary's (Catholic); the 
 Scotch Presbyterian; the Lutheran and 
 Unitarian Churches ; Trinity and Bethel 
 (Methodist); the Huguenot church and 
 others. The last-named is worthy of a 
 visit if for no other purpose than to see 
 the quaint and elegant mural entablatures 
 with which its walls are lined. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITTTTIONS. 
 
 Prominent among these is the City 
 Hall, on the comer of Broad and Meeting 
 Streets. The Chamber of the Board of 
 Aldermen is specially worthy of inspec- 
 tion on account of the rare pictures of 
 distinguished men that grace its walls. 
 On the opposite comer is 
 
 12S 
 
Chablesion.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cbablisiok. 
 
 The Court-House, a substantial stone 
 building, and for its purpose very com- 
 modious. No stranger should neglect to 
 observe the mode in which justice is here 
 meted out by colored jurors and judges. 
 Opposite this building is trhat is known 
 as 
 
 The . Chiard-House, or Police Head- 
 quarters. The force is semi-military in 
 organization, and is composed about 
 equally of whites and negroes, who drill 
 with Winchester rifles, and are uniformed 
 in blue. There is also a special detective 
 force. Continuing down Broad Street, 
 we find at the end, facing the Street, the 
 venerable building locally known as 
 
 The old Fast- Office. — ^It was much 
 battered during i^e war, but has since 
 been renovated, and ia now one of the most 
 imposing structures in the city. In the 
 time of the Revolution it was used by the 
 British as a military prison, and the cell 
 is BtiU pointed out Irom which the patriot 
 Isaac Hayne was led forth to execution. 
 
 Looking either to the right or left, one 
 here sees the busiest mart in Charleston 
 — ^the cotton and rice, and produce 
 warehouses, and the long line of wharves 
 whence are received or shipped the im- 
 mense freights that find their outlet 
 through this " City by the Sea." Passing 
 up the Bay, as this street is called, the 
 attention is arrested by 
 
 T/ie OtesiomSoine — an expensive mar- 
 ble building, that has been for several 
 years in process of construction. When 
 complete, its handsome proportions, great 
 marble pillars, and fine dome will make 
 it compare favorably with any similar 
 public edifice in the United States.' The 
 view of the harbor from the steps, looking 
 seaward, is commanding and full of 
 interest. On the opposite side of the 
 street is 
 
 UTie Market. — ^And a Charleston market 
 should be seen to be appreciated. This 
 one extends for several squares, and the 
 constantly changing aspect of the crowds 
 that throng the place from six to 
 nine o'clock every morning and on Satur- 
 day nights — the peculiar cries of the old 
 negro mamma's inviting you to buy, the 
 coaxing persuasiveness with which they 
 assail you from every little coop where 
 they sit behind piles of the freshest and 
 most enticing products of the field and 
 126 
 
 farm, constitute a scene that is at once 
 kaleidoscopic and novel. 
 
 The Military Academy (citadel) was a- 
 State institution, but it no longer exists. 
 The plan of education was borrowed, in 
 part, from the system at West Point, and 
 in part from the Polytechnique in Paris. 
 Its graduates are among the most dis- 
 tinguished and successful, perhaps, of all 
 our colleges, and during the war con- 
 tributed not a little to the discipline and 
 management of the Confederate army. 
 The building is now used as headquarters 
 for U. S. troops. The Arsenal is a beau- 
 tiful place, and the shrubbery, flowers, and 
 foliage with which its grounds are adorned 
 give one an excellent idea of the luxu- 
 riance of Southern vegetation. 
 
 The Charleston College was founded in 
 1788. The present structure, fronting 
 on George and Greene Streets, was erected 
 in 1826. The wings were added in 1850. 
 It is in a flourishing condition, and its 
 professors are ranked, among the most 
 distinguished men in the South. 
 
 Xhs Medical College SinA. Roper Hospital, 
 two handsome edifices on Queen Street, 
 will amply repay a visit. The Almx- 
 House and public hospitals should also 
 be seen by those who are desirous of 
 looking on human misfortune in the 
 peculiar phases which are here sometimes 
 presented. 
 
 The Public Schools, on St. Philip Street, 
 in the immediate neighborhood of the 
 college building, are also imposing edi- 
 fices. Of these, the JNbrmal School is 
 worthy of particular notice as a model 
 institution. Those who are interested in 
 observing the effect of knowledge on the 
 colored children will do well to visit the 
 Avery Institute on Bull Street. The private 
 schools of Charleston are numerous, and 
 compare favorably with others else- 
 where. 
 
 The Jail and WorJchouse, on Magazine 
 Street, lately occupied as United States 
 barracks for colored troops, are large, 
 castellated structures ; as are also the 
 depots of the South Carolina and Sa- 
 vannah & Charleston Railroads. 
 
 The U. S. Federal Courts are held in 
 the magnificent building on Meeting 
 Street, erected by the Charleston Club 
 many years ago. It was purchased since 
 the war by the Government, most of the 
 
Ghaslesion.] 
 
 SOUTH CAKOLINA. 
 
 [Cbarlestoit. 
 
 older members of the Club having been 
 killed in battle, or being too much impov- 
 erished to maintain the establishment in 
 its former elegant style. 
 
 The Orphan House. — This is one of 
 the best institutions of the kind in the 
 country, and has been frequently visited 
 by persons from other portions of the 
 Union and from Europe who desire to 
 observe the excellant plan on which it is 
 conducted. The building is of striking 
 proportions, the grounds are spacious, and 
 are supplied with all appliances that can 
 add to the pleasure of the children, and 
 the management within doors is of such 
 a character that both boys and girls go 
 forth fitted to battle with the difficulties 
 of life. Hon. John C. Fremont, once a can- 
 didate for the Presidency, and Hon. C. C. 
 Meminger, one of the most distinguished 
 lawyers of Charleston, both received the 
 rudiments of their education in this in- 
 stitution. A statue of William Pitt, the 
 English statesman, erected during the 
 Bevolution, stands in the centre of the 
 groimds. 
 
 HoTELa. — There are few, if any cities in 
 the United States, where the tourist wUl 
 fare better at a hotel than he will in 
 Charleston. The market is abundantly 
 supplied at ah seasons of the year with 
 the choicest of game and fish, from the 
 adjacent wood and waters, and with vege- 
 tables and fruits that are considered a 
 rarity at the N^orth. The principal hotel 
 is the Charleston, on Meeting Street. It 
 is famous for its great stone pillared piaz- 
 zas reaching from pavement to roof, its 
 vestibules and parlors, and the general 
 good taste and liberality that have always 
 marked its management. It has likewise 
 been the temporary home of the moat dis- 
 tmguished men of Europe and America 
 who have visited the city. 
 
 The Mills Sottse, two or three blocks 
 lower down on the same street, is another 
 handsome hotel, in both its architecture 
 and appointments. Before the war, it 
 was a famous resort for Southern planters 
 and politicians. Since the war, it has 
 been largely frequented by Northern 
 merchants and tourists, fairly dividing 
 honors with its competitor, the Charles- 
 ton. 
 
 The Pavilion Hotel is a cosy, home-like 
 house, patronized by business men and 
 
 travellers who eschew style and are con- 
 tent with merely economical comfort. 
 
 Rkstaueants. — These do not differ 
 from other establishments of a similar 
 character elsewhere, save in the features 
 already referred to — the advantage of a 
 superb market that affords every thing 
 from a boiled crab to turtle steaks, and 
 the inimitable manipulation of home- 
 products by " old-time" negro-cooks. It 
 is a noticeable characteristic of the " low 
 country," as it is termed, from Charleston 
 to New Orleans, that the cuisine is always 
 tempting, and seldom surpassed. The 
 tourist in Charleston can always obtain 
 the best wine, brandy, and cigars. Poor 
 as the people may be at the present time, 
 former habits seem to have made these 
 luxuries indispensable. 
 
 CiUBS. — ^A letter of introduction from 
 the proper source will secure an entree 
 into any of the various social organiza- 
 tions of Charleston. The old exclusive 
 feeling is dying out, and even the South 
 Carolina Club, which is composed of the 
 so-called aristocratic young men of the 
 city, extends its hospitalities to known 
 gentlemen — though they may have been 
 accidentally born in another State. Club- 
 life in Charleston, however, has very much 
 changed since 1861, and there are com- 
 paratively few of the old members left. 
 The elegant club-house has passed into 
 the hands of the United States, and its 
 great dining-hall has become a Federal 
 court-room, wherein sit as jurors the for- 
 mer slaves of the men who once contri- 
 buted to make the place famous. • 
 
 The Board of Trade and Ohamher of 
 Commerce. — These two institutions, al- 
 though organized for commercial pur- 
 poses, partake largely of the character- 
 istics of social clubs. The former is 
 located on Meeting Street, a short dis- 
 tance above the Charleston Hotel, and is 
 at all times open to the members and 
 their guests. Its spacious piazzas, hand- 
 some reading-room, where the best papers 
 and magazines published are to be found, 
 its dining halls, and card and billiard 
 rooms, make it an attractive place of 
 resort. The Chamber of Commerce, on 
 the Bay, comer of Broad Street, is older 
 in years, and perhaps marked by a spirit 
 more sombre and less progressive, but 
 one can always find entertainment for 
 127 
 
Chakleston.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOITB. 
 
 [Chaelbstos. 
 
 body and mind during the day in meeting 
 -with the best citizens of Charleston and 
 enjoying their hospitality. 
 
 Societies, — Charleston is especially rich 
 in her public charities — the South Caro- 
 lina Fellowship, Hibernian, Hebrew, Ger- 
 man Freundsohaftsbund and other socie- 
 ties, all of which have large endowments 
 and fine buildings. The Hibernian Society 
 has upon its roll more than fifteen hundred 
 of the most distinguished men of the 
 State, and is in a flourishing condition. 
 Its monthly and annual meetings are 
 occasions of great enjoyment, and the 
 tourist, should he happen to be present, 
 will carry away the most pleasurable 
 reminiscences of social life among the 
 citizens. She has a Literary and Philo- 
 sophical Society, and a Medical College in 
 prosperous condition. The College Libra- 
 ry contains some 10,000 volumes ; the 
 Charleston Library, some 30,000 ; the 
 Apprentices', 12,000. The College Museum 
 is second to none in the United States. 
 
 Places of Amusement. — Of these there 
 are three — ^the Academy of Music, the 
 Hibernian Hall, and the Hall of the 
 Freundschaftsbund. The first is con- 
 structed not unlike Booth's celebrated 
 theatre in New York, and is one of the 
 prettiest and most commodious opera- 
 houses south of Baltimore. The others 
 above named are also supplied with the 
 usual stage scenery and adapted to the- 
 atrical performances. 
 
 Conveyances. — ^A line of street-oars en- 
 ables the visitor to see many of the 
 most interesting points in the city at 
 small cost. They pass through the prin- 
 cipal streets, from the Exchange and the 
 Battery, to the upper ends of Rutledge 
 Avenue and Meeting Street. Omnibuses 
 are in waiting at the different depots on 
 the arrival of the trains and steamers, 
 and convey passengers to any portion of 
 the city. Livery-stables are attached to 
 the different hotels, and, for a moderate 
 sum, one may visit the principal locali- 
 ties. 
 
 The Battery. — Charleston has a number 
 of handsome parks ; and it also has the 
 famous promenade known as " The Bat- 
 tery," an enclosure which, if small, has 
 some advantages that very few parks 
 elsewhere can supply. It lies at the 
 water's edge, and commands a view of . 
 128 
 
 the extensive bay. It is surrounded by 
 fine private mansions, and at early morn- 
 ing, at twilight, or on moonlit nights, is 
 thronged with people seeking rest and 
 recreation; a band performs here during 
 the summer twice a week. 
 
 After one has promenaded on the Bat- 
 tery ; has visited the churches ; has seen 
 all the ruins effected by war and by fire ; 
 has examined the public buildings; has 
 admired all the stately old residences; 
 has visited the institutions ; has watched 
 the various aspects of negro character, 
 which in these Southern cities is an end- 
 less source of amusement — ^he must sail 
 down the bay, and visit the rich lowland 
 scenery of the suburbs. 
 
 THE 8UBUEBS. 
 
 Perhaps the greatest charm to the 
 Charleston visitor is the lowland scen- 
 ery of its suburbs. The city is situ- 
 ated at the confluence of the Ashley and 
 Cooper Elvers, and the banks of these 
 streams have all the characteristics of 
 Southern landscapes. Oaks, magnolias, 
 myrtles, and jasmines, give splendor and 
 profusion to the picture, while rice- 
 fields and cotton-fields vary and enrich 
 the scene. Here once resided, during a 
 part of the year, a wealthy aristocracy ; 
 but now nearly every mansion is in ruins. 
 The destructive arm of war fell upon this 
 paradise with all its force, nearly every 
 one of the fine old houses having been 
 fired by Sherman's soldiers. 
 
 The main road from Charleston into 
 the country has been highly praised, and, 
 although some of the fine trees that bor- 
 dered it have been destroyed, it is still an 
 avenue of singular beauty. The road 
 emerges from Charleston almost imme- 
 diately into a green wilderness, and for a 
 long distance it is canopied by the boughs 
 of pines and oaks and magnolias, with 
 rich effects. There are no signs along 
 the road of the proximity of a great city. 
 Few houses or viUas line the way ; and 
 one seems a hundred miles from town. 
 We meet occasionally a queer, slight oart, 
 drawn by an ox or a donkey ; or pass a 
 group of sportsmen; or encounter now 
 and then on the road-side a group of 
 negroes. Ashley Kiver is reached by a 
 sort of by-road. Here a bridge once 
 
CnASLESTOX.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Charleston. 
 
 BpEumed the stream, but it was destroyed 
 during tlie war, and now the river is 
 crossed in a wherry to James Island. 
 
 Reaching the opposite side, we drive 
 through a striking scene — a narrow road 
 winding through a superb Southern for- 
 est, where the mammoth live-oak and the 
 tall pine and the royal magnolia {Magno- 
 lia grandiflora) unite to form vistas of 
 indescribable beauty. A romantic story 
 is connected with this avenue, which 
 some poet should put in verse. The 
 young owner of the estate — this was 
 many years ago — had brought a fair bride 
 from foreign lands. A bridal cavalcade 
 swept out of Charleston to escort groom 
 and bride to the manorial majision on the 
 Ashley. The proud and eager groom, 
 anxious to show his young wife the charms 
 of her new home, urged her steed ahead 
 of the rest, and, when they reached the 
 avenue of oaks, called upon her to look 
 and admire. Almost as they spoke a 
 cloud of smoke appeared at the other end 
 of the avenue, and instantly flames of fire 
 shot up among the tree-tops. The old 
 manor was in a blaze, and the bride ar- 
 rived only in time to see the destruction 
 of her promised paradise. The young 
 husband was so cast down by this calamity 
 that he carried his wife abroad, and never 
 returned to his American estate. Trees 
 and bushes have grown up around the 
 old oaks, but the avenue retains all its 
 distinct majesty amid the encroaching 
 growths of the forest. James Island 
 abounds in fine cotton-plantations, and a 
 day may be pleasantly occupied in view- 
 ing these and the wonderful net-work of 
 fortifications erected during the war. It 
 is but a short drive to the bloody field 
 of Secessionville. 
 
 Returning to the main-land, we sail or 
 drive 
 
 Up the Ashley. — Of the old planters' 
 houses that stood along the Ashley, 
 but one remains, and this is aban- 
 doned. " Drayton Hall " is a large 
 brick mansion, standing in the centre 
 of grounds of a park-like character. 
 The rooms are wainscoted from floor to 
 ceiling, the fireplaces are lined with old- 
 fashioned colored tiles, and the man- 
 tels are richly carved, but the building 
 was never entirely finished. The story 
 goes that it was erected in exact copy of 
 
 an English mansion, in order to gratify 
 the taste of the lady to whom the owner 
 was betrothed. The wainscot, the tiles, 
 the carved mantels, and marble columns, 
 were all imported from England, but, ere 
 the chivalrous lover had reproduced on 
 the Ashley a full copy of the house which 
 had charmed his betrothed on the Thames, 
 the lady died ; and, since then, the unfin- 
 ished manor, like a broken monumental 
 column, stands in its incompleteness a 
 memorial of his loss. Another story re- 
 lates that it was saved from the fate of 
 its neighbors, at the time of the Sherman 
 incursion, by the devotion of a negio, 
 who assured the Federal leader that it 
 belonged to a man of Union sentiments. 
 It is now occupied by negroes. Its par- 
 lor is a granary. Its wainscot is badly 
 marred, and the rare, colored tiles of its 
 fireplaces have been in part carried off by 
 predatory hands. 
 
 A few miles farther up the river are 
 the ruins of the celebrated " Middleton 
 Place " — once One of the most beautiful 
 plantations in South Carolina. The sce- 
 nery, the flowers, hedges, and shrubbery, 
 the undergrowth and noble oaks, the 
 ponds, and lakes, the picturesque old 
 tombs — these still remain, but it is mel- 
 ancholy to contemplate that aU the ruin 
 which one sees around him was caused 
 by the unsparing hand of War. Visitors 
 frequently make a pilgrimage to the spot 
 in order to gratify their curiosity, and, if 
 reports are true, the house has suffered 
 greatly from their unscrupulous desire 
 for relics. 
 
 "Magnolia Cemetery "is one of the 
 places in Charleston to which strangers 
 are directed. It is comparatively a new 
 cemetery, and its name is rather derived 
 from what is expected of it tlian what 
 it exhibits. So far, very few magnolias 
 adorn it, but there are some live-oaks 
 exceptionally fantastic and queer in form. 
 In this cemetery is a monument to Colo- 
 nel Washington, whose exploits in the 
 Revolution are well known ; to Hugh 
 Swinton Legare, one of the ripest scholars 
 South Carolina has produced ; and in a 
 vault repose the remains of Commodore 
 Vanderhost, whose coflBn, shrouded with 
 the Union Jack, may be seen through 
 the latticed door of the tomb. The re- 
 mains of William Gilmore Simms, the 
 129 
 
Charleston.] 
 
 SOUTHBEN TOUE. 
 
 [Chaelbston. 
 
 poet and novelist, also repose here. There 
 are many beautiful nooks within this city 
 of the dead, and the place should cer- 
 tainly be visited. 
 
 Bethany Cemetery may be reached from 
 Magnolia, by a short dUmtr from the 
 main road. Another pleasant drive is to 
 the old church, 
 
 St. Jamei^s, on Goose Greek, near Cooper 
 River, and about seventeen miles from 
 Charleston. This church was built in 
 I'm. It-is situated in, the very heart of 
 a forest, is approached by a road scarcely 
 better than a bridle-path, and is entirely 
 isolated from habitations of any sort. A 
 deep ditch surrounds the building, dug 
 as a means of protecting the graves with- 
 in it from wild animals. This church 
 was saved from destruction by the Tories 
 during the Kevolutionary War on account 
 of the British arms that are emblazoned 
 on the wall just above the pulpit. The 
 interior is very odd. Seventeen square 
 pews fill up the ground-floor, which, like 
 all old English churches, is of stone. A 
 gallery at one end has three or four rows 
 of benches, and under this gallery are a 
 few more benches designed for the negro 
 servants. The altar; the reading-desk, 
 and the pulpit, are so small, and crowded 
 in a space so narrow, that they seem 
 almost miniatures of those church fix- 
 tures. The monumental tablets on the 
 side of the altar are very fantastic in 
 form, and, what is still more singular, 
 are highly emblazoned in color. Although 
 these tablets have been in their places 
 over one hundred and fifty years, the 
 colors retain apparently all their original 
 brilliancy. The lion and the unicorn 
 over the pulpit also preserve their original 
 tints. A stone tablet in the floor just 
 before the pulpit is to the memory of 
 Francis Lejeau, D. D., of Trinity College, 
 Dublin, who was the first pastor of the 
 church, and who died in 1717. The me- 
 morial tablets on the walls are inscribed 
 to Colonel John Gibbes, who died in 1711, 
 and to Jane Gibbes, in 1717. Gibbes 
 our readers will recall as one of the hon- 
 ored South Carolina family names. 
 
 Goose Creek Church was once the cen- 
 tre of flourishing settlements, but, with 
 the decadence that has come over the 
 old Commonwealth, the plantations are 
 forsaken, and this historical vestige stands, 
 130 
 
 in the midst of a wilderness, neg 
 and almost unknown. Trees and bushes 
 have overgrown and hid the gravestones, 
 and the native forest threatens in time 
 to obscure the very foundations of the 
 building. 
 
 Phosphates. — ^While on this brief jaunt 
 in the suburbs, the stranger will see some 
 of the results of a wonderful discovery 
 that has been utilized since 1865^ and 
 has become a, source of income to the 
 State and people, amounting to mUliona 
 of dollars. He will drive for nules over 
 a road laid with what are known as 
 " phosphates." To the eye they appear 
 to be merely stones or nodules of various 
 shapes, and ranging in size from a walnut 
 to a bowlder. For more than two genera- 
 tions there they have lain, richer than a 
 gold-mine,awaitingthe test of the exploring 
 chemist who was to develop the fact that 
 they contained from forty to seventy per 
 cent, of phosphatic strength ; that every 
 ton was worth sixty dollars in the market 
 for fertilizing purposes; and that every 
 acre of land, previously owned as almost 
 valueless, held, but a few inches below its 
 surface, thousands upon thousands of 
 dollars in actual, tangible wealth. This 
 test was applied in 1865 by one of the 
 resident chemists — and so poor was he 
 at the time that he could notafiford to 
 hire a horse with which to pursue his va.r 
 vestigations. He endeavored to borrow 
 money in Charleston, and to organize a 
 company for the purchase of some of 
 these lands, but failed. The capitalists 
 looked on him as a theorist. A friend 
 loaned him money enough to reach Phila- 
 delphia. There he exhibited his speci- 
 mens, explained the character of his dis- 
 covery, and with three or four gentlemen 
 inaugurated the enterprise. In a little 
 while they owned twenty square miles 
 of the richest phosphate-lands around 
 Charleston. A great factory was built 
 for the manipulation of the artless, which 
 consists — 1. Of its removal from the earth 
 and transportation. 2. Washing or burn- 
 ing and drying, 3. Grinding to powder 
 and mixing with sulphuric acid. It is - 
 then ready for use as a pure phosphate, 
 or may be still further combined with 
 fish, guano, or other articles calculated 
 to make it more valuable on certain soils. 
 Since that time many companies have 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTH OAEOLINA. 
 
 [Cahden. 
 
 been formed, and it has been discovered 
 that the entire coast, including the beds 
 of the rivers, is covered with this valuable 
 fertilizer. Fleets of English and Scotch 
 vessels are to be seen at nearly all sea- 
 sons of the year in Bull Biver, and at 
 other points, loading with phosphate in 
 its rough state just as it comes from the 
 land or water. Its value in even this 
 rude condition is six or seven dollars per 
 ton. Employment is thus given to thou- 
 sands of negroes, and much machinery 
 has been invented and manu&ctured to 
 aid in obtaining the article by the most 
 speedy and economical means. A visit 
 to the " phosphate-mines " — as they are 
 called — along the Ashley River, or on 
 Bull River, where the process of dredging 
 in ten or fifteen feet of water may be 
 witnessed, will prove to be among the 
 most interesting features of a jaunt 
 around Charleston. 
 
 EOUTES OF TBAVEL. 
 
 From the north. South Carolina may 
 be reached by two lines of railroad — 
 the Wilmington & Manchester, on the 
 main line fi;om Richmond, Va., already 
 described (page 111, North Carolina), 
 and the Charlotte & Columbia Railroads. 
 There are also lines of steamers from 
 New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, 
 which in summer especially oflFer a very 
 pleasant way of reaching Charleston from 
 any northern point. Full particulars con- 
 cerning these various lines are given in 
 " Through Routes " at the end of this 
 volume. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 'WILMlNOTOir, M. a, TO MANCHESTEB, 
 KINGSflLLE, AND CAMDEN. 
 
 Via WUmmgton, Cohimjbia <& Auguata Bail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations: — Wilmington; Brintley's, 
 17 miles; Whiteville, 44; Fair Bluff 
 (connects with stage to Fayetteville 
 and Conwayboro'), 63 ; Fedee, 92 ; Flor- 
 ence (connects with Cheraw & Darling- 
 ton and Northeastern Railways), lOY ; 
 Lynchburg, 128 ; Sumter, 146 ; Man- 
 chester, 167 ; Wateree, 162 ; Eingsville 
 (connects with Camden Branch of South 
 Carolina Railway), 171. 
 
 'Wilmlng'toii has been already 
 described. (See North Carolina.) The 
 smaller stations en route present no feat- 
 ure of interest different from those which 
 the tourist has found elsewhere in South- 
 ern country towns. . 
 
 Florence (107 miles) is destined to 
 be a place of some commercial impor- 
 tance by reason of its facilities as a rail- 
 road centre. Considerable quantities of 
 cotton are shipped here. Passengers also 
 change oars for Cheraw and Charleston 
 via the Northeastern road. It will event- 
 ually be in connection with the road 
 leading to the coal-fields of North Caro- 
 lina. There is a fine water-power in the 
 neighborhood, and plenty of enterprise 
 among the people. The hotel is opposite 
 the depot. 
 
 Sumter (146 miles). This is a 
 thriving and handsome town, also rich 
 in cotton and other products. It sup- 
 ports two newspapers, several large stores 
 that would grace a city, and the people 
 are noted for their refinement and hos- 
 pitality. From Sumter the cars run di- 
 rect to Columbia. 
 
 SLings'villc (171 miles). A Wren- 
 looking place around the depot — a mere 
 station on the South Carolina Railroad, 
 where one may change cars for Columbia, 
 Charleston, or Camden. 
 
 Camden is 38 miles from Kings- 
 ville, and is situated on the Wateree Riv- 
 er, navigable to this point by steam- 
 boats. It is a place of great historic in- 
 terest. A battle was fought near by, 
 August, 1780, between the Americans, 
 under General Gates, and the British, 
 under Lord Comwallis ; and another in 
 April, 1781, between General Greene and 
 Lord Rawdon. The scene of the latter 
 struggle is the southeastern slope of Hob- 
 kirk's Hill, now called Kirkwood, a beauti- 
 ful summer suburb of the old town. Upon 
 the green, in front of the Presbyterian 
 Church, on De Kalb Street, there is a 
 monument over the grave of Baron de 
 Kalb, who fell in the battle of August, 
 1780, at Camden. The corner-stone was 
 laid m 1825, by Lafayette. The head- 
 quarters of Comwallis, to be seen here, 
 was a fine old building, now in ruins. 
 
 131 
 
TOBKVILLE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOmt. 
 
 [CoinMBU, 
 
 nOUTE II. 
 
 CHARLOTTE, N. C, TO AUGUSTA, OA. 
 Via Oliarlotte, ColwmMa<&A'ugiietaSadtwat/. 
 
 Stations : — Charlotte to Fort Mills, 18 
 miles ; Kock Hill, 26 ; Chester (conneets 
 with King's Mountain Railway), 45; 
 Blackstock, 51 ; White Oak, 64 ; Winns- 
 boro', T2; Kidgeway, 84; Eilian's, 97; 
 Columbia (connects with Greenville & 
 Columbia and South Carolina Railways), 
 107 ; Lexington, 121 ; Leesville, 138 ; 
 Johnston, 1S9 ; Graniteville, 180 ; Au- 
 gusta (connects with Georgia and Central 
 Georgia Railways), 192. 
 
 As will be seen by reference to the 
 map, this road passes across South 
 Carolina, and is a continuation of the 
 line already described as far as Charlotte 
 undertheheadofNoKTHCAEOLiNA. After 
 leaving Charlotte the traveller sees on 
 both sides a pleasant country, rolling in 
 character, and broken up into pleasant 
 farms and plantations. Com, grain, and 
 short cotton are raised here in great 
 abundance, and find their way to market 
 over this road. 
 
 Cbester (45 miles). This is the 
 county-seat of Chester County. The 
 town is scarcely visible from the railroad, 
 being planted on and behind a hill, but it 
 is a pleasant location, and one in which 
 many a Carolinian has made fame and 
 money. 
 
 A railroad rans from Chester to 
 
 YorkriUe, S. C. (22 miles). This 
 is the county-seat of York, and is situated 
 midway on the upper boundary of South 
 Carolina, upon an elevated plain which 
 forms the dividing ridge between the 
 Catawba and the Broad Rivers. In the 
 vicinity there are some valuable sulphur 
 and magnesia waters, to add to the at- 
 tractions of winning scenery and roman- 
 tic story which the region so abundantly 
 offers to the tourist. There are a number 
 of valuable gold-mines also in the neigh- 
 borhood.' Twelve miles northeast of 
 Torkville, and little more than a mile 
 south of the North Carolina line, is the 
 battle-field of King's Mountam. The 
 King's Mountain range extends about 
 sixteen miles southward, sending out lat- 
 eral spurs in various directions. The 
 Bcene of the battle is six miles from the I 
 132 
 
 summit of the hill. A simple monument 
 to. the memory of Fei^son and others 
 marks the spot, and on the right ther6 is 
 a large tulip-tree, upon which it is said 
 ten Tories were hanged. It was a hotly- 
 contested fight, the British loss being 
 1,106 killed, wounded, and prisoners. It 
 was fought October 7, 1780. Crowder'a 
 Knob, the highest peak of King's Moun- 
 tain, is about 3,000 feet above the level 
 of the sea. The Mountain Gap, near the 
 Cherokee Ford, the Chreat Falh of the 
 Catawba, and Sacky Monmi, the scene of 
 another of the partisan struggles, and 
 Hanging Sock, where Sumter fought a 
 desperate fight, are also interesting scenes 
 and localities of this hill-region of South 
 Carolina. 
 
 tf^innslioro' (72 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Fairfield County. An old-fashioned 
 place, but enterprising. A large trade in 
 cotton is transacted here, and there are 
 several fine schools and churches in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 Colnmlbia. (107 miles), the capi- 
 tal of South Carolina, is 137 miles from 
 Charleston, by the South Carolina Rail- 
 way and the Columbia Branch. It is con- 
 nected by railway with the great route 
 from New York to New Orleans, with Au- 
 gusta, Georgia, and with Camden, Che- 
 raw, and most of the interior and mountain 
 Tillages of the State. It is a beautiful city, 
 situated on the bluffs of' the Congaree, a 
 few miles below the charming falls of that 
 river, near the confluence of the Saluda 
 and Broad Rivers, and was famous for 
 its delightfully-shaded streets, its wonder- 
 ful flower-gardens, and the model plan- 
 tations in its vicinity. Nothing could be 
 more inviting than the walks and drives 
 in the neighborhood. The Capitol, when 
 completed, will be one of the handsomest 
 buildings in the United States. It was 
 fortunately spared during the burning of 
 the city on its occupation by General 
 Sherman's forces, and is used by the 
 present legislative and State govern- 
 ment. A visit to the Capitol, especial- 
 ly during a session of the present Legis- 
 lature — 1872 -'3 — will be intensely in- 
 teresting, and should not be missed by 
 those who desire to see the negro in the 
 rdle of a statesman. The South Carolina 
 College, founded in 1804, is a prosperous 
 institution. It had a library of 17,000 
 
GRANI'IXriLI.II.] 
 
 SOUTH CAEOLINA. 
 
 [Bbanohviilb. 
 
 volumes previous to the war. The 
 Insane Asylum is an object of great 
 interest. Here also is the theological 
 college of the Presbyterian Church, and a 
 Boman Catholic establishq^ent. The city 
 was occupied by General Sherman's 
 forces, February 17, 1865. The city has 
 been greatly changed in all of its aspects 
 by the conflagration referred to; but 
 when it is remembered that only a few 
 years ago, the greater part of it — 80 
 squares — were in ashes, its growth will 
 be regarded as wonderful. The view 
 from Arsenal Hill is the most beautiful 
 in this portion of South CaroUna. There 
 are a large and crowded Penitentiary here, 
 and a water-power surpassing that of 
 Lowell, Lawrence, or Holyoke. Many 
 Northern gentlemen have selected the 
 place as their future home, and, in time, 
 capital will doubtless make Columbia a 
 great manufacturing centre. Hotels : the 
 Nickerson House and Columbia Hotel. 
 
 From Columbia to Augusta the journey 
 is not marked by any striking features. 
 It runs through a level, wooded region, 
 until 
 
 Crraniteville (180 miles) 'is 
 reached. This is purely a manufacturing 
 town, wherein employment is given to 
 several hundred operatives who constitute 
 the bulk of the inhabitants. There are 
 two or three large granite cotton-mills, 
 every day's labor in which demonstrates 
 the fact that cotton goods can be made and 
 sold ten or fifteen per cent, cheaper in the 
 South than in the North. The owners 
 are men of wealth and enterprise, and 
 their example is being happily followed 
 elsewhere. 
 
 A.itgasta. is described in the chap- 
 ter on Georgia. {See page 147.) 
 
 MOUTE III. 
 
 OOLVMBIA TO CBABLESTON. 
 Via j3<mth CaroUna Ua/U/ujwy, 
 
 Stations : — Columbia (connects with 
 Charlotte & South Carolina and Green- 
 ville & Columbia Railways) ; Hopkins, 12 
 miles; KingsviUe (connects with Wilming- 
 ton & Manchester Railway, and Junc- 
 tion of Camden Branch), 25 ; Lewisville, 
 38; Orangeburg, Bl; Branchville, 68; 
 George's, 89 ; Bidgeville, 106 ; Sineath's, 
 
 124 ; Charleston (connects with steamers 
 sailing from Charleston, and with railways 
 diverging), 137. 
 
 Orang^ebnrg^ (51 miles) is a spot 
 of historic interest, near the banks of 
 the Edisto Biver. It formed a link in 
 the chain of military posts established by 
 the British after the fall of Charleston. 
 Among the old relics here are some re- 
 mains of the works erected by Bawdon, 
 near the Edisto, and the old Court-House, 
 which bears traces, in the shape of bullet- 
 marks, of the assault made by Sumter, 
 in 1781. General Sherman's forces oc- 
 cupied the town, February 12, 1865, pre- 
 paratory to their march on Columbia. 
 
 Eii.ta.'W Springes, interesting as 
 the scene of the famous battle of Eutaw 
 during the Eevolutionary War, is about 
 40 miles below Orangeburg, and 60 miles 
 northwest of Charleston. 
 
 JPort Iflotte, a relic of the Eevolu- 
 tion, stands upon high terrace-ground, 
 near the Bull's Head Neck, on the Con- 
 garee, just above its meeting with the 
 Wateree, six miles from KingsvUle, on 
 the Columbia Branch of the South Caro- 
 lina Railway. 
 
 Brancliville, the point of junc- 
 tion with the Charlestoii & Augusta 
 Railway, is a small place, 68 miles north- 
 west of Charleston, important only for 
 its railway connections with all parts of 
 the State. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 CJSTABZSSTOJir TO AVGfVBTA. 
 Via South Carolina BaMway. 
 
 Stations : — Charleston to Branchville, 
 68 miles (for stations, see Eoute III.) ; 
 Midway, 72 ; Graham's, 81 ; Blackville, 
 90; Windsor, 107; Aiken, 120; Lang, 
 iey, 128 ; Augusta (connects with Georgia 
 Railway, and Augusta & Savannah Bail- 
 way), 137. 
 
 The journey on the South Carolina 
 Railway will give the traveller some 
 inkling of the lowland features of South- 
 em landscape, though not in its strongest 
 or most interesting character, since much 
 of the way is through extensive pine- 
 forests, which makes the rhyming sneer 
 bestowed upon this part of the country 
 not altogether inapt : 
 
 133 
 
Woodlands.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [WOODIANDS. 
 
 "Where, to the north, piab-trees in prospect 
 
 rise; 
 Where, to the east, pine-trees assail the slcies; 
 Where, to the west, pine-trees obstruct the 
 
 Tlew; 
 Where, to the south, pine-trees foreyer grew I " 
 
 But a second glimpse will reveal, amid 
 all these " pine-trees," the towering cy- 
 press, with its foliage of fringe and its 
 garlands of moss — the waxen bay-leaf, 
 tiie rank laurel, and the clustering ivy; 
 and, if you are watchful, you may catch, 
 in the rapid transit of the cars through 
 the swamps, glimpses of almost intermi- 
 nable cathedral-aisles of cypress and vine, 
 sweeping through the deeper parts of the 
 boundless lagoons. But a railroad glimpse, 
 and especially at the speed with which 
 you travel here, is quite insufficient for 
 reasonable observation. At Woodlands, 
 a mile south of Midway, the centre of 
 the road, lived before the war the poet 
 and novelist the late William Gilmore 
 Simms. Yonder, in that wide and spread- 
 ing lawn, stood our author's mansion — 
 an old-fashioned brick structure, with 
 massive and strange portico. The ranks 
 of orange and live-oak trees which sen- 
 tinel his castle were the objects of his 
 tenderest care. Mr. Simms had a par- 
 ticular fondness for the fragrant grape- 
 vine, depending in such fantastic and 
 numberless festoons from the limbs of 
 you venerable tree. It is strong-limbed 
 as a giant, and, but for the grace with 
 which it clings to the old forest^king, 
 would seem to be rather struggling with 
 him for his sceptre, than loyally and 
 lovingly suing for his protection, The 
 vine drops its festoons, one beneath the 
 other, in such a manner that half a dozen 
 persons may find a cozy seat, each over 
 his fellow, for a merry swing. On a 
 dreamy summer eve, you may vacillate, 
 in these rustic couches, to your heart's 
 content ; one arm thrown round the vine 
 will secure you in your seat, while the 
 hand may hold the favorite book, and 
 the other pluck the delicious clusters of 
 grapes, which, as you swing, encircle 
 your head like the wreath upon the brow 
 of Bacchus. If the rays of the setting 
 sun be hot, then the rich and impenetra- 
 ble canopy of foliage above you will not 
 prove ungrateful. 
 
 As affording a most marked and not 
 altogether pleasing contrast to the picture 
 134 
 
 which farm and domestic life at the South 
 now presents to the stranger, we insert 
 the following characteristic sketch, by a 
 well-known traveller, of a visit to South 
 Carolina, befoij,e secession times : "A stroll 
 over Mr. Simms's plantation will give you 
 a pleasant inkling of almost every feat- 
 ure of the Southern lowlands, in natural 
 scenery, social life, and the character and 
 position of the slave population. You 
 may sleep s^reetly and soundly within his 
 hospitable walls, secure of a happy day 
 on the morrow, whether the rain holds 
 you prisoner within-doors, or the glad 
 sunshine drags you abroad. He will give 
 you a true Southern breakfast, at a very 
 comfortable hour, and then furnish you 
 abundant sources of amusement in his 
 well-stocked library, or suffer you to seek 
 it elsewhere, as your fancy listeth. At 
 dinner, you shall not lack good cheer, for 
 either the physical or the intellectual 
 man, and then you may take a pleasant 
 stroll to the quiet banks of the Edisto — 
 watch the raJt-men floating lazily down 
 the stream, and interpret as you will the 
 windings and echoes of their boat-horns 
 —or you may muse in the shaded bowers 
 of Turtle Cove, or any of the many other 
 inlets and bayous of the stream. Go 
 where you may, you must not fail to peep 
 into the dark and solemn swamps. You 
 may traverse their waters on wild bridges 
 of decayed and fallen trees ; you may 
 dream of knight and troubadour, as your 
 eye wanders through the Gothic passages 
 of cypress, interlacing their branches, 
 and bearing the ever-dependent moss, 
 which hangs mournfully, as if weeping 
 over the desolation and death which 
 brood within the fatal precincts. If you 
 fear not to startle the wild-fowl, to disturb 
 the serpent, or to encounter the alligator, 
 you may enter your skiff, and, sailing 
 through the openings in the base of the 
 cypress, you may penetrate at pleasure, 
 amid bush and brake, into the mystic 
 chambers of these poisonous halls. Mr. 
 Simms has beautifully described these 
 solemn scenes in his ' Southern Passages 
 and Pictures.' " The fine place, which is 
 here so poetically referred to, was very 
 nearly destroyed in 1865, just before the 
 close of the ivar. It was occupied by 
 Sherman's troops on their march north- 
 ward from Georgia, and with the unre- 
 
Aiken.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [GeNEBAL AmiACTK 
 
 specting recklessness of an army on the 
 march the magnificent trees which were 
 the glory of the place were cut up for 
 firewood, the fine hedges trampled down, 
 and the picturesque features, which it 
 had taken a century to shape, were 
 stamped out in a day. 
 
 The road from Charleston to Augusta, 
 independent of the general features just 
 described, offers no points of special in- 
 terest, and none of them claim the atten- 
 tion of the traveller except 
 
 AXken (120 mUes). This is the 
 most important station on the South 
 Carolina Bailroad. For many years it 
 hks been locally known as a place in 
 which persons suflfering from pulmo- 
 nary complaints or general debility were 
 greatly relieved if not entirely cured ; 
 bat, since the war, hundreds of North- 
 ern families have made it a regular win- 
 ter resort. It" is pleasantly situated on 
 an elevated, sandy ridge, the water-shed 
 of the Edisto and Savannah Rivers, and 
 contains a fine hotel where invalids may 
 receive the care of a competent resident 
 physician, and many handsome cottages 
 wherein during the winter will be found 
 much of the wealth, luxury, and refine- 
 ment, that characterize summer Ufe at 
 the springs. The climate is so admirable, 
 the atmosphere so pure and exhilarating, 
 and all of the surroundings so well cal- 
 culated to attract strangers in ill-health, 
 that the growth of Aiken from a mere 
 country vUlage to a large town has been 
 steadily progressing. Each year adds to 
 its reputation for efiecting wonderful 
 cures, and each year witnesses an influx 
 of new visitors who have been attracted 
 thereby. 
 
 Angvstai, fia,,, one of the most 
 picturesque cities in the South, is fully 
 described in the chapter on Geobgia (see 
 p. 14-?). 
 
 MOUTE r. 
 
 CHABLESTON TO SAVAimAB. 
 Via CJiarleston <& Savannah Railway, 
 This road runs along the Atlantic coast, 
 though never in sight of the ocean. 
 
 Stations: — Charleston to John's I. 
 Ferry, 9 miles ; New Road, 19 ; Jack- 
 Bonboro' (connects with stages for Wal- 
 terboro'), 30; Whitehall, 44; Yemassee 
 
 (connects with Port Royal Railway), 6 
 Coosawhatchie, 61 ; Savannah River, 8 
 Savannah (connects with Atlantic & Gulf 
 and Georgia Central Railways), 104. 
 
 Charleston has been described 
 on page 121. 
 
 There are no places of special interest 
 to be mentioned, but the following ex- 
 tract from recent correspondence of the 
 New York Times will give an idea of the 
 general attractions which this trip offers 
 to tourists : 
 
 " The railroad from Charleston to Sa- 
 vannah was, like most of the other South- 
 em railroads, entirely destroyed during 
 the war, and has only been in operation 
 again for a little more than a year. Its 
 route is within a few miles of the coast 
 line, and it passes through many of the 
 sea-board and lowland towns and villages 
 of the State. As a consequence, the en- 
 tire journey is made among some of its 
 wildest and richest scenery. For miles 
 the rails are laid on piles, passing through 
 marsh and morass, and crossing swilt- 
 rushing, dirty streams, dignified by the 
 name of rivers, and baptized with unpro- 
 nounceable Indian names. But it is in 
 regions of this nature that we find the 
 wildest, grandest, and most tropical vege- 
 tation. By one of Nature's freaks, in this 
 country of miasmas, fevers, and excessive 
 heat, where, in the summer months, the 
 negro alone can live, she has been most 
 lavish in her gifts. Extensive pine-for- 
 ests, the lofty cypress, wreathed and be- 
 decked with garlands of gray moss ; the 
 bay and the laurel, covered with the 
 vines of the wild-grape or ivy; huge 
 oaks that have stood the wear and tear 
 of centuries, line the road on either side. 
 Noble avenues are created by these for- 
 est giants, and pendant from their stal- 
 wart limbs hang long festoons of moss 
 and vine, dimly v-eiling the vista beyond. 
 Flowers grow in profusion, and give 
 variety and beauty to the green shades 
 of the leaves and plants. The cane- 
 brake, growing to a height of ten, 
 twelve, and fifteen feet, forms a qiuisi 
 barrier, protecting the neighboring re- 
 ^ons from the incursions of man or 
 beast, and, 'neath the shadow of the 
 overhanging boughs, the ill-Fhapen alli- 
 gator retires from the muddy waters of 
 his river home. I thought I had seen 
 135 
 
KiNGSTREE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. [Picker's CorM-HorsB. 
 
 some pretty good samples of Southern 
 scenery before, but I am compelled to 
 yield the palm of superiority to the views 
 along this road." 
 
 Sa-rannali, Oa., is described in 
 the chapter on Georgia (see p. 142). 
 
 MOUTE VI. 
 
 CBARIESTON' TO PLOBSSCE AN'D 
 OBEBAW. 
 
 Via Notiheastern <md Cherww & jDa/rWtig- 
 ton Bcdhoays. 
 
 Stations. — Northeastern Railway : 
 — Charleston to Mount Holly, 19 miles ; 
 Honck's Comer, 29 ; Bonneau's, 37 ; Gour- 
 din's, BO ; Kingstree (connects with stages 
 for Georgetown), 64; Graham's, 79; 
 Effingham, 93; Florence (connects with 
 Cheraw & Darlington and Wilmington & 
 Manchester Railways), 102. 
 
 Stations. — Cheraw & Darlington 
 Railway: Florence to Darlington, 10 
 miles ; Society Hill, 26 ; Cheraw, 40 ; and 
 142 miles from Charleston. 
 
 Most of the Ipoalities above named are 
 mere stopping-places by the roadside, and 
 present no features of interest to the 
 tourist. 
 
 King:stree (64 miles), the capital 
 of Williamsburg County, is a pleasant 
 village on the left bank of Black River. 
 
 Society Hill (128 miles) is fa- 
 mous for its elegant residences, wealth, 
 and beauty. It is the home of many re- 
 tired planters who live in ease and luxury. 
 
 ClieraTT (142 miles), near the north- 
 em line of the State, is pleasantly situ- 
 ated on the Great Pedee River, at the 
 head of steam navigation. When the 
 Coal-Fields Railroad is completed, its im- 
 portance will be greatly magnified. At 
 present it is a quietly rural town, in which 
 there are many beautiful dwellings. A 
 fair share of the cotton-trade of this sec- 
 tion of the State is done here. 
 
 MOLTTE VII. 
 
 COLUMBIA TO GBEESTILLE. 
 Tia Grem/ville & Columbia Baihjoay, 
 
 Stations ; — Columbia to Littleton, 15 
 miles ; Alston (connects with Junction of 
 Spartansburg& Union Railway), 25 ; Pros- 
 perity, 40 ; Helena (connects with Juno- 
 136 
 
 tion of Laurens Railway), 48 ; Saluda 
 Old Town, 61; Ninety-Six, 75; Green- 
 wood, 85 ; Abbeville {Br.) (connects with 
 stages to Washington, Ga.), 107 ; Houea 
 Path, 109 ; Belton, 118 ; Anderson (Br.) 
 (connects with Junction of Blue Ridge 
 Railway), 127 ; WiUiamston, 124 ; Green- 
 ville (connects with stages to Henderson- 
 ville and AsheviUe, N. C), 143. 
 
 Wefrl»erry is the capital of New- 
 berry County, and one of the largest 
 towns in the State ; has a college, a news- 
 paper, and is the heart of a large business 
 in grain, cotton, and country manufac- 
 tures. 
 
 Ablieville. This is a large town, 
 celebrated not only for its cotton-trade, 
 but for the wealth and refinement of its 
 people. Many of the most distinguished 
 men in the State were bom in the county, 
 and it is still the residence of a number 
 whose names are familiar in South Caro- 
 lina as " household words." It is reached 
 by a branch road from Cokesbury, on the 
 Greenville & Columbia Railroad. 
 
 Anderson. On arriving at Belton, 
 another short branch road conveys the 
 traveller to this town. What has been 
 said of Abbeville applies equally to An- 
 derson. There is much beautiful scenery 
 in the neighborhood, and the climate is 
 delightful during the entire year. This 
 is the present headquarters of the great 
 Blue Ridge Railroad, which has been in 
 process of construction for many years. 
 Trains run upon it a short distance only 
 beyond WalhaUa, a German settlement 
 of recent date. 
 
 Pendleton Is an agreeable little 
 village, on Eighteen-Mile Creek, Ander- 
 son County, in the mountain region. It 
 is easily reached from Greenville, at An- 
 derson Court-House. 
 
 Fort mil, once the residence of 
 the statesman John C. Calhoun, is a few 
 miles only from the village of Pendleton. 
 It is a plain but comfortable building of 
 wood, with piazzas and other fittings and 
 arrangements, after the usual fashion of 
 Southern country-houses. 
 
 Pickens Conrt-Bonse is a 
 few hours' ride north of Pendleton and 
 west of Greenville. It is within excursion 
 distance of the Keowee River, the valley 
 of Jocasse, the Cataract of the White 
 Water, and other interesting scenes. 
 
Gbeenviile.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. [The Mottntain Region. 
 
 CrreenTiIle (143 miles from Co- 
 lumbia and 271 from Charleston), in the 
 northwest comer of the State, lies at the 
 threshold of the chief beauties of the 
 mountain-region of South Carolina, and 
 gives ready access to aU the rest. The 
 vUIage is beautifully situated on Reedy 
 River, near its source, and at the foot of 
 the Saluda Mountain. It is one of the 
 most popular summer resorts in the up- 
 country of the State, being in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the Table Moimtain, the 
 White Water, and the Slicking Falls, the 
 Jocasse and Saluda Valleys, the Keowee 
 River, Paris Moimtain, Caesar's Head, and 
 numerous other bold peaks of the Blue 
 Ridge {see Mountain Scenery). Green- 
 ville is on the Air-Line Railroad be- 
 tween Atlanta, Ga., and Charlotte, N. C, 
 which will add largely to its prosperity. 
 It is also connected by the same road 
 with its sister-town—Spartanburg. There 
 is a fine Baptist University here, a Female 
 Seminary, and altogether it is a quiet, 
 lovely, and attractive spot. The Mansion 
 Souse will be found an excellent hotel. 
 
 THE MOXrafTAIN EEGION. 
 
 The northern districts of South Carolina 
 form, with the neighboring hill-region of 
 Georgia, and the western portion of North 
 Carolina, one of the most interesting chap- 
 ters in the great volume of American 
 landscape. In mountain surprises, pic- 
 turesque valley nooks, and romantic 
 water-falls, this region is nowhere sur- 
 passed in all the Union. Beautiful and 
 healthful villages, with high social attrac- 
 tions, afford most agreeable homes and 
 headquarters to seekers after the pictu- 
 resque. These villages are rapidly becom- 
 ing favorite summer resorts of the people 
 of the lowlands of the State; and their 
 elegant mansions and villas are every 
 year more and more embellishing the vi- 
 cinity. Table MotTNiAiN, 20 miles above 
 the village of Greenville, is one of the 
 most remarkable of the natural wonders 
 of the State, rising as it does 4,300 feet 
 above the sea, with a long extent on one 
 side of perpendicular cUEFs, 1,000 feet in 
 height. The view of these grand and 
 lofty rocky ledges is exceedingly fine from 
 the quiet glens of the valley of the cove 
 below, and not less imposing is the splen- 
 
 did amphitheatre of hill-tops seen from its 
 crown. Among the sights to be seen 
 from Table Moimtain is Ccesar's Head. 
 It is the highest point in the vicinity, and 
 well deserving a visit. Across this valley 
 is the Fall of Slicking, its long line of 
 sparkling spray heightening the beauty 
 of the scene. The Stool Mountain, which 
 is prominent from the valley below, here 
 dwindles to its proper height. The top of 
 the rock, which is comparatively level, is 
 of great extent. In many places the sur- 
 face is stony, in others alluvial and cov- 
 ered with noble trees. Near the centre, 
 the remains of a hut exist; a building 
 erected as a kitchen to a hotel, which it 
 was once contemplated to erect on the 
 rock. Though the enterprise was given 
 up, it is not at all impracticable. The 
 60 or 60 acres of tillable land might fur- ■ 
 nish provisions, while for water there is 
 a spring, of the most grateful purity and 
 coolness, near the middle of the isolated 
 and elevated demesne. 
 
 The Falls op Slicking are in the 
 mountain-glens, on the opposite side of 
 the valley, at the base of the Table Rock. 
 Leaving the cabin at the base of the 
 Saluda Mountain, the tourist, in his ascent, 
 soon finds himself following the windings 
 of the river. After the passage of about 
 one-quarter of a mile, he reaches the 
 "Trunk," so called from its being the 
 point of junction of two different branches 
 of the river or creek ; the distance be- 
 tween these streams, as you continue to 
 ascend, gradually increases, and, when 
 near the summit, they are widely sepa- 
 rated ; they bear one name, and abound, 
 each, in cascades. The right-hand branch 
 is the more picturesque, and is the one 
 by which the visitor is usually conducted. 
 
 From the " Trunk," the gem of aU this 
 looahty, and the Table Rock, is a charm- 
 ing view of the neighboring mountains 
 of Cassar's Head, Bald Mountain, the Pin- 
 nacle Rock, and other spurs. At the 
 "Trunk," the two streams fall perpen- 
 dicularly some seventy feet, mingling in 
 one in the basin below. This basin is 
 easily accessible, and nowhere is there a 
 more secluded or more wildly picturesque 
 spot. Save when in his meridian, the 
 sun's rays seldom penetrate its solitude. 
 On one side are the two cascades leaping 
 in snowy masses from rock to rook, and 
 137 
 
[The Mountain Kseioif. 
 
 SOUTHERN TOmti 
 
 [GEOBQEIOWir. 
 
 on others are mighty bulwarks of vener- 
 able stone, here and there studded with 
 the adventurous shrub, or overhung with 
 rich foliage. 
 
 Eeowee is a beautiful mountain- 
 stream, in Pickens District, which, with 
 the Tugaloo Kiver, forms the Savannah. 
 The road to the valley of the Jocasse lies 
 along its banks. 
 
 "I have been where the tides roll hy, 
 Of mighty rivers deep and wide, 
 On every wave an argosy — 
 
 And cities builded on each side ; 
 "Where the low din of commerce fillB 
 The ear with strife that never stills. 
 
 " Tet not to me have scenes Jifee these, 
 Bnch charms as thine, peerless stream I 
 Not cities proud my eye can please — 
 
 Not argosies so rich "I deem — 
 As thy cloud-vested hills that rise — 
 And forests looming to the skies I " 
 
 The Keowee region is full of romantic 
 memories of the Cherokee wars. 
 
 JoCASSE Valley, near the northern 
 line of the State, is one of the most 
 charmingly secluded little nooks in the 
 State, environed as it is on every side, 
 except that through which the Keowee 
 steals out, by grand mountain-ridges. 
 The chief charm of Jocasse is, that it is 
 small enough to be felt and enjoyed all at 
 once, as its entire area is not too much 
 for one comfortable picture. It is such 
 a valley as painters delight in. 
 
 White Water Catakacts are an hour's 
 brisk walk north of Jocasse. Their 
 chief beauty is in their picturesque lines, 
 and in the variety and boldness of the 
 mountain landscape all around : though 
 they would still maintain their claims to 
 universal admiration, for their extent 
 alone, even were the accessory scenes far 
 less beautiful than they are. The number 
 of visitors here is increasing year by year, 
 and the time is approaching when this 
 and the thousand otier marvels of Nature 
 in the Sonthem States will win tourists 
 from the North, as the White Mountains 
 and the Gatskills, and Trenton and Lake 
 George, now attract pilgrims from the 
 South. 
 
 Adjoining this most attractive region 
 of South Carolina, and easily accessible 
 therefrom, are the many beautiful scenes 
 of the western portion of North Carolina, 
 of which we have already spoken, and of 
 138 
 
 Tallulah, and Toccoa, and Yonah, and 
 Naooochee, and numerous other lovely 
 spots in the hill-region of Georgia, which 
 yet remain undescribed. 
 
 The Seaboard and Lowland towns, 
 villages, and plantations of South Caro- 
 lina may be reached with the steamboats 
 which ply between Charleston and Sa- 
 vannah, or by stage or carriage from the 
 line of the Charleston & Savannah Rail- 
 way. The traveller will not see them in 
 their own peculiar beauty, because the 
 climate in summer-time, when the won- 
 derful tropical vegetation covers the rank 
 earth, is not to be braved by the unac- 
 climated. The planters themselves, in- 
 deed, remove with their families, at this 
 season, either to the uplands or to the 
 little sandy, pine-covered elevations with 
 which the country is dotted. The negroes 
 alone can bear the summer heats of the 
 lowlands without ill results. In the win- 
 ter, however, life may easily be made en- 
 joyable in the villages here, under the 
 bdmiest and most healthful of tempera- 
 tures, and in the midst of genial and re- 
 fined society. 
 
 Beaii£art, in a district of the same 
 name, is pleasantly situated on Port 
 Royal River, 16 miles from the sea, and 
 about 60 miles west-southwest of Charles- 
 ton. It affords a delightful summer 
 residence, and has daily communication 
 by steamer and the Port Royal Railroad 
 with the cities of Charleston and Sa- 
 vannah, connection being made at Yem- 
 assee. It contains an arsenal, Court- 
 House, bank, and several churches. 
 Beaufort is now occupied chiefly by ne- 
 groes who during the war took posses- 
 sion of many of the abandoned mansions 
 of the planters and refuse to give them 
 up to their owners. The oiBcers of the 
 town, the police, magistrates, and mem- 
 bers of the Legislature, are nearly all 
 negroes. It is iu process of slow decay, 
 for the trade is confined chiefly to a 
 retail supply of goods to the small popu- 
 lation of the vicinity. 
 
 Georgeto-wn, one of the oldest 
 settlements in South Carolina, is about 
 IS miles from the sea, on Winyaw Bay, 
 near the junction of the Pedee, Black, 
 and Waccamaw Rivers. The district of 
 Georgetown, next to that of Beaufort, 
 
SPABTAHEima.] 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 [Pom Botju„ 
 
 produces more rice than any other section 
 of the State. Some Kevolutionary mem- 
 ories are awakened here. * In 1780 the 
 vicinage was the scene of a sltirmish be- 
 tween American and British troops, and 
 in IISI it was taken from the enemy by 
 General Marion, and the military works 
 destroyed. 
 
 SpartanbnTg, 223 miles from 
 Charleston, 93 miles from Columbia, by 
 the Greenville & Columbia and Spar- 
 tanburg & Union Bailways, is the only 
 important town of South Carolina that 
 has not been described. It is attrac- 
 tively situated in the midst of a mineral 
 region, famous for its gold and iron. 
 Here, too, are some celebrated lime- 
 stone springs. The place is the seat of 
 a University, endowed by Benjamin 
 Wofiford, and controlled by the Method- 
 ists ; also of a prosperous Female College. 
 An Asylnm for the Deaf, Dumb, and 
 Mind, is located here. Within the Umits 
 of this district is the memorable Revolu- 
 tionary baiUe-field of the Cowpens, located 
 on the hill-range called the Thickety 
 Mountain. The battle was fought Janua- 
 ry 17, 1781, and resulted in the defeat of 
 the British under Tarleton. In the olden 
 time the cattle were suffered to graze 
 upon the scene of the contest — ^whence 
 its name. 
 
 Now that the Atlanta & Richmond Air- 
 Line Railway is completed, Spartanburg 
 is the ctiief station in South Carolina, on 
 what will undoubtedly be the favorite 
 line of through-travel to the Gulf States, 
 which will add greatly to its commercial 
 advantages. Hitherto it has been rather 
 off the route pursued by tourists, but 
 
 from this time foi'th it will be visited by 
 nearly all who cross the State in their 
 journeyings north or south. 
 
 Port Koyal, one of the finest 
 harbors on the South Atlantic coast, is 
 situated just below Beaufort, about mid- 
 way between Charleston and Savannah ; 
 and during the present year (1873) has 
 been connected, by a railway 111 miles 
 long, with Augusta. Until lately the har- 
 bor has never been perfectly buoyed by 
 the Coast Survey Board ; now, however, 
 it has been completely furnished in this 
 respect, and it is officially announced 
 that it can be entered by " any vessel 
 yet built, without a pilot," the only di- 
 rection necessary being to sail in and 
 out by the colored sides of the buoys, 
 which every sailor understands. It is 
 beUeved that a great seaport will grow 
 up here, and prominent capitalists North 
 and South are said to be determined to 
 develop its advantages. The completion 
 of the railway from Port Royal to Au- 
 gusta gives a through trunk-line of com- 
 munication to Nashville, St. Louis, Mem- 
 phis, and other important points West 
 and South ; and there is this remarkable 
 fact to be observed, that the southwest- 
 ern trend of the Atlantic coast, below 
 the capes of Delaware, gives a much 
 nearer line of transportation from St. 
 Louis, the great centre of the Mississippi 
 Valley, and in fact from all points west 
 of Cincinnati, to the seaboard at Port 
 Royal, than at the Northern shipping- 
 ports of New York and Boston. From 
 St. Louis to New York, for instance, the 
 distance is 1,201 miles ; to Fort Royal it 
 is only 946. 
 
 139 
 
Gkobgia.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUB. 
 
 [The Savamhah. 
 
 GEOEGIA. 
 
 This great State, long regarded as the 
 "Empire State" of the South, possesses 
 unrivalled sources of prosperity and 
 wealth ; and, though they are as yet only 
 in the early stages of development, the 
 traveller will not hesitate to predict for 
 her a glorious future, when he notes the 
 spirit of activity, enterprise, and progress 
 which so markedly distinguishes her from 
 other portions of the South. Georgia 
 was the last settled of the "Original 
 Thirteen " States of the Union. She de- 
 rived her name with her charter from 
 George II., June, 11S2. Her first colony 
 was planted by General Oglethorpe, on 
 the spot where the city of Savannah now 
 stands, in 1733, 63 years after the settle- 
 ment of South Carolina, and a century 
 behind most of the ori^al colonies. 
 Three years after the arrival of Ogle- 
 thorpe, Ebenezer, 25 miles up the Sa- 
 vannah Eiver, was planted by the Ger- 
 mans. Darien, on the sea, was com- 
 menced about the same time by a party 
 of Scotch Highlanders. Among the early 
 troubles of the colony was a war with 
 the Spaniards in Florida, each party in 
 turn invading the territory of the other. 
 The people of Georgia took a- vigorous 
 part in the Eevolution, and the State was 
 in possession of the British a portion of 
 that time. The city of Savannah was 
 taken by theja, December 29, II'JS. A 
 bold attempt was made by the combined 
 American and French forces to recapture 
 It, but without success, the allies losing 
 1,100 men. The great Cherokee country, 
 in the upper part of the State, came into 
 the full possession of the whites in 1838, 
 when the Indians were removed to new 
 homes beyond the Mississippi. The sea- 
 coast of Georgia, extending about 80 
 miles, is very similar in character to that 
 of the Carolinas, being lined with fertile 
 islands cut off from the main-land by 
 140 
 
 narrow lagoons or sounds. The famous 
 Sea-island cotton is grown here ; and 
 wild-fowl are abundant in all varieties. 
 Upon the main, rice-plantations flourish, 
 with all the semitropical vegetation and 
 fruit which one finds in the ocean dis- 
 tricts of South Carolina. Passing north- 
 ward to the central regions of the State, 
 the cotton-fields greet the eye at every 
 step, until the sur&ce of the country be- 
 comes more and more broken and hilly, 
 and, at last, verges upon the great hill- 
 region traversed by the Appalachian or 
 AUeghany Mountains. These great ranges 
 occupy ail the northern counties, and pre- 
 sent to the charmed eye of the tourist 
 scenes of beauty and sublimity not sur- 
 passed in any part of the Union. 
 
 EITEES. 
 
 , There are many fine rivers in Georgia ; 
 but, as with the water-courses of the 
 South generally, they are often muddy, 
 and their only beauty is in the raiJc 
 vegetation of ^eir shores, with here and 
 there a bold, sandy bluff. 
 
 Xbe' Savannab, which divides 
 the States of Georgia and South Carolina 
 through half their length, has a course, 
 exclusive of its branches, of about 450 
 miles. The cities of Augusta and Savan- 
 nah are upon its banks, and it enters the 
 Atlantic 18 miles below the latter place. 
 From June to November it is navigable for 
 large vessels as far as Savannah, and for 
 steamboats up to Augusta, a distance of 
 230 miles from its mouth. The river-voy- 
 age between these points is a very pleasant 
 one, presenting to the eye of the stranger 
 many picturesque novelties in the eotton- 
 fields which lie along the banks through 
 the upper part of the passage, and in the 
 rich rice-plantations below. Approach- 
 ing Savannah, the tourist will be partiou- 
 
Oconee KrvEKr] 
 
 GEOEGIA. 
 
 [Oqeechee Biteb. 
 
 larly delighted with the mystic glena of 
 the wild swamp-reaches, and with the 
 luxuriant groves of live-oak which shad- 
 ow the ancient-looking manors of the 
 planters. A few miles above the city of 
 Savannah, he may visit the spot where 
 Whitney invented and first used his won- 
 derful cotton-^n. The alligator, in times 
 before the war, was often seen sunning 
 himself on the shores of the lower waters 
 of the Savannah, being abundant in the 
 contiguous swamps. " When our canoe," 
 says Sir Charles Lyell, in his record of 
 travels in this region, "had proceeded 
 into brackish water, where the river- 
 banks consisted of marsh-land, covered 
 with a tall, repd-Uke grass, we came close 
 to an alligator, about nine feet long, bask- 
 ing in the sun. Had the day been warm- 
 er, he would not have allowed us to ap- 
 proach so near to him, for these reptiles 
 are much shyer than formerly, since they 
 have learned to dread the avenging rifle 
 of the planter, whose stray hogs and 
 sporting-dogs they often devour. About 
 ten years ago, Mr. Cooper tells us, he saw 
 200 of them together in St. Mary's River, 
 extremely fearless." Wonderful stories 
 are told of these creatures, many of them 
 much too wonderful for credence. They 
 are now becoming rare, as one acquainted 
 with their habits observed to me, being 
 probably disturbed by the violent ex- 
 plosions of gunpowder at the time of the 
 attack on Spanish Fort. They have been 
 but seldom seen of late. 
 
 Oconee River rises in the gold- 
 lands of the mountain-districts of Georgia, 
 and traverses the State in a southerly di- 
 rection until it meets the Ogeechee, and 
 with that river reaches the sea under the 
 name of the Altamaha. Milledgeville, the 
 former capital, and Athens, one of the 
 most beautiful places in the State, are on 
 this river. 
 
 Ocmnlgee Stiver is navigable 
 for small steamboats to Macon. 
 
 Flint Kiver, in the western part 
 of the State, passes by Lanier, Oglethorpe, 
 and Albany, and uniting with the Chatta- 
 hoochee, at the southwest extremity of 
 the State, forms the Appalachicola. The 
 length of the Plint River is about 300 
 miles. Its navigable waters extend 250 
 miles, from the Gulf of Mexico to Albany. 
 
 Xlie Chattabooclice is one of 
 
 the largest and most interesting rivers 
 of Georgia. It pursues a devious way 
 through the gold-region westward from 
 the mountains in the northeastern part 
 of the State, and makes the lower half of 
 the dividing line between Georgia and 
 Alabama. At the point where it enteis 
 Florida it is joined by the Flint River, 
 and the united waters are thenceforward 
 called the Appalachicola. The Chatta- 
 hoochee is navigable for large steamboats 
 as far up as Columbus, 860 miles from 
 the Gulf of Mexico, where it affords an 
 immense water-power. The principal 
 towns on this river, besides Columbus, 
 are Bainbridge, Eufaula, West Point, and 
 Fort Gaines. 
 
 Xlie Ogfeecliee rises in Greene 
 County, flows southeastward, and enters 
 the Atlantic through Ossabaw Sound, 20 
 miles south of Savannah. Its whole 
 length is estimated at 250 miles. It is 
 navigable for sloops a distance of be- 
 tween 30 and 40 miles. 
 
 Fm-t McAlliiter, on Genesis Point, 
 which commands the entrance to the 
 Ogeechee, is interesting from the part it 
 played in the defence of Savannah by Gen- 
 eral Hardee, in the latter part of the war. 
 It successfully resisted the attacks of the 
 monitor fleet in January and March, 1863, 
 but was finally captured by General Ha- 
 zen's division of the Fifteenth Corps (Sher- 
 man's army), on December 13, 1864. 
 
 Minerals, etc. — ^Before the discovery of 
 gold in California, Georgia was one of the 
 chief gold-producing regions of the United 
 States. Her gold-mines are still very valu- 
 able, but, strange to say, are not much 
 worked.- The gold quartz contains a 
 large percentage of pyrites, bismuth, an- 
 timony (in small proportions), arsenic, ga- 
 lena, yellow mica, etc., etc. Georgia also 
 has silver, copper, iron, lead, manganese, 
 and zinc ; also granite, marble, gypsum, 
 coal, marl, burrstone, soapstone, slate, 
 and, in small quantities, ruby, opal, ru- 
 gite, cyanite, emerald, carnelians, chal- 
 cedony, agate, jasper, amethyst, precious 
 garnets, rose quartz, beryl, and even dia- 
 monds. FossUs are found in abundance 
 in the southeastern counties near the sea. 
 Terra-cotta of the finest quality is found 
 near Atlanta, and is worked into drain- 
 pipes, chimney-tops, building-omamenta, 
 fountains, vases, and garden statuary. 
 141 
 
Climate, Population, Etc.] SOUTHEEN TOUK. 
 
 [Savannah. 
 
 Climate, Soil, and Productions. — The 
 climate of Georgia is deliglitful. In the 
 southern and middle parts of the State, 
 the heat is great in summer ; in the more 
 nortjiern portion, among the mountains, 
 the temperature is cool and invigorating. 
 Snow falls sometimes, but does not re- 
 main long on the ground. 
 
 The soil varies in different localities. 
 There are the rich alluvions near the sea- 
 coast and rivers, the thinner soil of the 
 barren regions (by no means sterile), and 
 the rougher mountain-regions. The prod- 
 ucts of the^State are cotton, rice, Indian- 
 corn, sugar, Irish potatoes, sweet-pota- 
 toes, besides large quantities of live- 
 stock, oats, wheat, tobacco, wool, fruits, 
 market products, molasses, beeswax and 
 honey, and some rye, barley, buckwheat, 
 wine, hops, flax, and silk. 
 
 The cotton crop of Georgia is consid- 
 erable, as will be seen from the following 
 statistics returned for the year 1871 : 
 Exported from Savannah to foreign 
 ports, uplands, 46,067 bales ; Sea Islands, 
 2,836 bales ; to coastwise ports, uplands, 
 260,529 bales; Sea Islands, 6,839; 
 stock, September 1, 1871, 8,215. Total, 
 734,094 bales, from which we deduct : 
 received from Florida, uplands, 1,300; 
 Sea Islands, 3,968 ; from Beaufort, Sea 
 Islands, 465 ; and stock, September 1, 
 1870, 2,333. Total, 8,566 bales, showing 
 the crop of Georgia to be, in 1871, 
 725,528 ; 1870, 485,574. 
 
 The population of the State, in 1860, 
 was 1,057,286, of whom 591,550 were 
 whites, 2,500 free blacks, 462,198 slaves, 
 and 38 Indians. In 1870 the population 
 was 1,200,609, of whom 645,132 were 
 blacks. 
 
 Ot/ier Statistics. — The total valuation 
 of real estate and personal property, in 
 i860, was $618,232,387, and, in 1870, 
 it had fallen to $202,563,557. Georgia, 
 in 1841, had 271 miles of railway, cost- 
 ing $8,130,000, or an average of $30,000 
 per mile. In 1869 she had 1,652 miles 
 in operation, costing $49,560,000, or an 
 average of a little less than $30,000 per 
 mile. Thus, in a period of 29 years, 
 Georgia had invested the enormous 
 amount of $41,520,000, or nearly 
 $2,000,000 per annum. In 1872 there 
 were 2,160 miles of railroad in the State. 
 Numerous railway schemes are projected 
 142 
 
 for the year 1878, and others are in 
 progress for the present year. There are 
 said to be 125 newspapers in Georgia. 
 
 SAVANNAH. 
 
 The city of Savannah, the chief city 
 of Georgia, is situated on the south bank 
 of the Savannah River, about 17 miles 
 from its confluence with the sea. The 
 site was selected by General Oglethorpe, 
 the founder of the colony of Georgia, 
 who, as before mentioned, made his first 
 settlement at this point in February, 
 1733. The city occupies a promontory 
 of land, rising in a bold bluff, about 40 
 feet in height, close to the river, extend- 
 ing along its south bank for about a 
 mile, and backward, widening as it re- 
 cedes, about six miles. The river ipak- 
 ing A gentle curve around Hutchinson's 
 Island, the water-front of the city is in 
 the form of an elongated crescent, about 
 2} miles in length. The present corpo- 
 rate limits extend back on the elevated 
 plateau, with lowlands on its eastern and 
 western flanks, a distance of about IJ 
 mile ; the area of the municipal liruits, 
 at present almost entirely occupied with 
 buildings, being 3J- miles square. Be- 
 yond the city limits, to the south, subur- 
 ban settlements are fast growing up, and, 
 at the present ratio of expansion, the 
 city proper will soon comprise double its 
 present area, the adjacent grounds being 
 both eligible and available to an unlim- 
 ited extent. 
 
 In its general plan. Savannah is uni- 
 versally conceded to be one of the hand- 
 somest of American cities ; and, in view 
 of its antiquity, and the fact that its 
 founders were, for the most part, poor 
 refugees, seeking a home in the wilder- 
 ness among hostile savages, it is a mat- 
 ter of surprise that they should have 
 adopted a system at once so unique, 
 practical, and tasteful. The streets, run- 
 ning nearly east and west, and north and 
 south, and crossing at right angles, are 
 of various widths, the very streets which 
 run east and west being alternated with 
 parallel narrower streets, and each block 
 intersected with lanes 22j feet in width. 
 The streets running north and south are 
 of nearly uniform width, every alternate 
 street passing on either side of small 
 public squares, or plazas, varymg from 
 
Savannah.] 
 
 GEORGIA. 
 
 Satannah. 
 
 1-J to three acres in extent, which are 
 bounded on the north and south by the 
 narrower streets, and intersected in the 
 centre also by a wide street. These 
 plazas, 24 in number, located at equal 
 distances through the city, handsomely 
 enclosed, laid out in walks, and planted 
 with the evergreen and ornamental trees 
 of the South, are among the distinguish- 
 ing features of Savannah, and, in the 
 spring and summer months, when they 
 are carpeted with grass, and the trees 
 and shrubbery are in full flower and 
 foliage, afford delightful, shady walks, 
 and play-grounds for the children, while 
 they are not only ornamental, but condu- 
 cive to the general health by the free 
 ventilation which they afford. Tliey 
 have been well called the lungs of the 
 city. Upon the large " trust-lots," four 
 of which front on each of these squares, 
 two on the east and two on the west, 
 many of the public edifices and palatial 
 private residences of Savannah are built. 
 It is a little singular that the Savanna- 
 heans are indebted for this beautiful and 
 unique feature of their city to the saga- 
 cious precaution of the first settlers 
 against the dreaded attacks of the In- 
 dians. 
 
 In addition to these old " camping- 
 grounds " — many of which were occupied 
 for the same purpose by General Sher- 
 man's troops, after his capture of the 
 city in 1864 — a public park, comprising 
 some 10 acres (since increased to 30 
 acres), called Forsyth Place, was, a few 
 years since, laid out, a considerable dis- 
 tance south of the city limits. It is, 
 however, now being rapidly enclosed by 
 buildings, and will, in a short term, be 
 the centre of one of the finest and most 
 populous portions of the city. Many of 
 the original pine-trees were left standing 
 on the grounds, which are laid out in 
 serpentine walks, and ornamented with 
 evergreen and flowering trees and shrub- 
 bery. In the centre is a handsome foun- 
 tain, after the model of that in the Place 
 de la Concorde, in Paris, and which 
 is supplied with water from the city 
 water-works. The lofty pines still stand- 
 ing, with the ornamental trees, afford a 
 grateful shade; while the beautiful 
 shelled walks, the luxuriant grass, the 
 ^rfigrant flowers, and the plashing foun- 
 
 tiun, make Forsyth Place a delightful 
 retreat from the noise, bustle, dust, and 
 heat of the city. 
 
 Among the peculiar features of Savan- 
 nah, which command the admiration of 
 strangers, are the wideness of its princi- 
 pal streets, abounding with shade-trees, 
 and the flower-gardens which, in the por- 
 tions of the city allotted to private resi- 
 dences, are attached to almost every 
 house. Ornamental trees of various spe- 
 cies, mostly evergreens, occupy the pub- 
 lic squares, and stud the sidewalks in all 
 the principal thoroughfares ; while the 
 gardens abound with ornamental shrub- 
 bery and flowers of every variety. Con- 
 spicuous among the former are the 
 orange-tree, with its fragrant blossoms 
 and golden fruit in their season, the ba- 
 nana, which also bears its fruit, the mag- 
 nolia, the bay, the cape-myrtle, the state- 
 ly palmetto, the olive, the arbor-vUm, the 
 flowering oleander, and the pomegranate. 
 Flowers are cultivated in the open air, 
 many choice varieties — queen among 
 them all, the beautiful CameUia Japonica, 
 which flourishes here in greatest perfec- 
 tion, the shrub growing to a height of 
 12 to 15 feet — blooming in mid-winter. 
 At all seasons, Savannah is literally em- 
 bowered in shrubbery, and, in the early 
 spring months, when the annuals resume 
 their foliage, and the evergreens shed 
 their darker winter dress for the delicate 
 green of the new growth, the aspect of 
 the city is truly novel and beautiful, just- 
 ly entitling it to the appropriate sohriqitet 
 by which it has long been known, far and 
 wide, of the " Forest City." 
 
 The old city of Oglethorpe's time was 
 located on the brow of the bluff, about 
 midway between the present eastern and 
 western suburbs, and its boundaries are 
 still defined by the bay, and East, West, 
 and South Broad Streets. Upon the 
 river-front, a wide esplanade, about 200 
 feet in width, extending back from the 
 brink of the bluff, was preserved for pub- 
 lic purposes. This is called the Bay, 
 and is now the great commercial mart 
 of Savannah. As commerce grew up, 
 warehouses and shipping - offices were 
 built by the first settlers, under the bluff, 
 between it and the river. In time these 
 were replace^ by substantial brick and 
 stone structures, rising four and five 
 143 
 
Savannah.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTJE. 
 
 [Savannah. 
 
 Btories high on the river-front, with one 
 or two stories on the front facing, the 
 bay, connecting with the top of the bluff 
 ty wooden platforms, which spanned the 
 narrow road-way benea,th, passing ber 
 tween the buildings and the hill-side. 
 Some of these buildings, spared by the 
 great fire of 1820, which consumed the 
 larger portion of the, old town,, are inter- 
 esting for their antique and qusiint archi- 
 tecture. These relics of old Savannah, 
 and a few others, hold their place in the 
 line of stately modem buildings, which 
 now extend along the larger portion of 
 the city front under the bluff. Platforms 
 still connect the upper stones of the 
 stores under the bluff with the ba,y, and, 
 at the fool of the principal cross-streets, 
 walled road-ways lead to the quay, which 
 is wide, and occupied at intervals with 
 large sheds for the protection of goods 
 in the process of shipping and discharg- 
 ing. Along the quay, in close prpximity 
 to the wharves, are also located the cot- 
 ton-presses and rice-mills. 
 
 The present population of Savannah is 
 about 30,000 souls, of whom five-eighths 
 are white, and three-eighths black and 
 " colored ; " the increase of population 
 since the census of 1860 being some 
 7,000. The present assessed total value 
 of the real estate of the city is $15,341,- 
 900, showing also a very considerable 
 augmentation of wealth during the same 
 period. 
 
 If, under all the embarrassing circum- 
 stances of the past ten years, Savannah 
 has advanced in population and wealth, 
 her commerce has increased in a still 
 greater ratio, as will be shown by a com- 
 parison of the exports, foreign and coast- 
 wise, in 1860, with those of 1870. The 
 total exports in 1860, the year preceding 
 the war, consisting of cotton, rice, and 
 lumber, were $17,298,922. The exports 
 for the year 187ot as ascertained from 
 the official records of the custom-house, 
 amounted to $58,000,000, with a tonnage 
 in port, during the year, of 1,129,834 
 tons, employing 22,101 seamen. This 
 great increase in the commerce of Savan- 
 nah is mainly owing to the extension of 
 her railroad connections. Recently, di- 
 rect rail communication with the Missis- 
 sippi River at Vicksburg has been opened, 
 and already its advantage to the oom- 
 144 
 
 merce of the city is being realized. • It is 
 estimated that the total receipts of 1872 
 were about 700,000 bales, with a cor- 
 responding export in value of at least 
 $70,000,000. 
 
 Theso facts afford a striking illustra- 
 tion of the growing importance of Savan- 
 nah as a commercial centre of the South 
 — rthe natural result of the completion of 
 a railroad system which her enterprise 
 projected, and which the capital and en- 
 ergy of her citizens mainly built. Until 
 the construction of the Central RaUroad, 
 some thirty years since. Savannah was 
 comparatively isolated from the internal 
 commerce of the world, her only commu- 
 nication with the interior of the State be- 
 ing by the Savannah River to Augusta, 
 the head of steamboat-navigation-r-the 
 wilderness and the great swamps of the 
 Altamaha interposing an impassable bar- 
 rier to the vast and fertile regions of tlie 
 Southwest. By her great trunk-roads — 
 the Central, and the Atlantic & Gulf, 
 and their connections — she now offers an 
 outlet for the products of the entire State 
 of Georgia, Middle and West Florida, and 
 portions of Alabama and Tennessee, and 
 is in unbroken railroad connection with 
 Memphis, Mobilp, Vicksburg, Louisville, 
 Cincinnati, and the principal commercial 
 centres of the West. When it is con- 
 sidered that this system of railroad, com- 
 munication, which has already accom- 
 plished so much, is constantly radiating 
 and extending, that the harbor is one of 
 the best, safest, and most accessible on 
 the South-Atlantic coast, and that it is 
 almost on an air-line by the shortest 
 route with San Diego on the Pacific, the 
 impulse which must be given to the com- 
 merce of Savannah by the completion of 
 the South-Pacific Railroad cannot b^ 
 over-estimated. 
 
 The temperature qf Savannah has all 
 the mildness of the tropiQS in winter, 
 without the intense heat in sujnmer, the 
 mean temperature being 66°, very nearly 
 the same as that of Bermuda. The sul- 
 triness of the " heftted term " in Savan- 
 nah is less oppressive than in 'Sew York 
 or Boston, mitigated as it is by a soft, 
 humid atmosphere, and the never-failing 
 breath of the " trade-winds," so grateful 
 at that season. In point of health, the 
 mortuary statistics of Savannah will coia- 
 
SATAIIII.4B.] 
 
 GEORGIA. 
 
 [Savannah. 
 
 pare favorably with those of any other 
 city of the same population in the United 
 States, the locality being comparatively 
 free from the fevers of the lower latitudes, 
 and almost entirely exempt from the pul- 
 monary affections so prevalent farther 
 North. For Northern invalids, the cli- 
 mate of Savannah, with the conveniences 
 and comforts of the metropolis, is con- 
 sidered preferable by some to that of the 
 sanitary retreats on the coast farther 
 south. 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 The principal hotels of Savannah are 
 — ^tlie Pulaski House, on Bryan Street, 
 Johnson Square ; the Marshall Souse, 
 on Broughton Street, and the Scriven 
 House. The last-two have been lately 
 refurnished, and all may be reUed upon 
 to furnish substantial comfort to travel- 
 lers. 
 
 CEITBOHES. 
 
 Among the church edifices the Episco- 
 pal Churches of St. John's and Christ's 
 are the most striking. The lofty spire 
 of the Ind^endent Presbyterian Church 
 is much and deservedly admired. This 
 church is built of Quincy granite, and 
 cost $80,000. Trinity Church stands 
 on St. James's Square, near the spot 
 where John Wesley delivered his famous 
 
 PAEKS AND PUBLIC SQUAEBS. 
 
 Among the most attractive places of 
 public resort is Forsyth Park, already 
 mentioned. In Johnson or Monument 
 Square, opposite the Pulaski House, 
 there ia a fine Doric obelisk erected to 
 the memories of Generals Greene and 
 Pulaski, the comer-stone of which was 
 laid by Lafeyette during his visit in 1825. 
 It is a marble shaft, 53 feet in height. 
 The base ofthe pedestal is 10 feet 4 inch- 
 es by 6 feet 8 inches, and its elevation is 
 about 12 feet. The needle which sur- 
 mounts the pedestal is 37 feet high. 
 
 Another and very elegant structure 
 has since been built (1853) in Chippewa 
 Square to the memory of Pulaski. This 
 general fell gallantly during an attack 
 upon the city, while it was occupied by 
 the British in the year 1Y79. The monu- 
 ment appropriately covers the spot where 
 T 
 
 Pulaski fell. It is one of the most chaste 
 and perfect specimens of monumental 
 architecture in the United States. The 
 shaft is of the purest marble, and the 
 steps are plinths of granite. It is 55 
 feet high, and surmounted by an ex- 
 quisitely-carved statue of Liberty, hold- 
 ing the national banner. The arms of 
 Georgia and Poland ar^ intertwined on 
 the cornice of two sides of the monu- 
 ment. It was constructed by Launitz, of 
 New York, at a cost of $22,000 in gold. 
 
 Jasper Park is called after the gallant 
 Sergeant Newton Jasper, whose deed of 
 valor, spoken of on page 146, gave the 
 name to Jasper Spring, which is there- 
 in described. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
 
 Among the public buildings of note in 
 Savaimah are the new Custom -House, 
 corner of Bull and Bay Streets ; the CUy 
 Exchange, in front of which General 
 Sherman reviewed bis army, January 7, 
 1866 ; the Cowrt-House, Theatre, Armory, 
 Arsenal, and Jail. St. Andrew's Hall 
 and the Chatham, Academy are conspicu- 
 ous buUdings. From the tower of the 
 Exchange the best view of the city and 
 neighborhood is to be had. 
 
 The building on the northeast comer 
 of Bull and Broughton Streets, known as 
 the Masonic Hall, is interesting to the 
 visitor as the place where the Ordinance 
 of Secession was passed, January 21, 
 1861. Four years after (December 28, 
 1864), a meeting of citizens was held in 
 the same apartment to commemorate the 
 triumph of the Union arms. The main 
 apartment is now used as a billiard-room. 
 Among the interesting rehcs of the past 
 history of Savannah are — the building in 
 which the colonial Legislature held its 
 sessions, on South Broad Street, just east 
 of Drayton, and the mansion of the Gov- 
 ernor of Georgia during the occupation 
 of the city by the British, which stands 
 On Broughton Street. 
 
 The Benevolent, Literabt, and Edu- 
 cational Institctions of Savannah are 
 numerous and liberally sustained, some 
 of them being among the oldest in the 
 country ; the Union Society, for the sup- 
 port and education of orphan boys, and 
 the Female Asylum, for the care and edu- 
 146 
 
Satannah.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTJR. 
 
 [Satanuah, 
 
 cation of orphan ^rls, having been found- 
 ed in 1'750. The St. Andrew's Society, 
 St. George's Society, Hibernian Society, 
 Irish Union Society, Hebrew Benevolent 
 Society, Ladies' German Benevolent So- 
 ciety, the Abrams' Home for Poor Wid- 
 ows, the Home for Old and Indigent Col- 
 ored People, the Savannah Poor-House 
 and Hospital, and the Marine Hospital, 
 are all highly-respectable, prosperous, 
 and benevolent institutions. There are 
 also the Georgia Historical Society, which 
 has a fine library, the Georgia Medical 
 Society, Young Men's Library Sodety, 
 and Young Men's Christian Association, 
 besides other iratemal and social asso- 
 ciations. 
 
 The subject of popular education has 
 commanded the attention of the best and 
 most influential citizens of Savannah, 
 through whose exertions, sustained by 
 the hberal provision of the municipal 
 government, a public-school system has 
 been inaugurated, which is justly pro- 
 nounced equal to that of any city in the 
 Union. At the public schools, wliich are 
 classified, progressing from the primary 
 to the grammar and high schools, two 
 thousand children are in regular attend- 
 ance. 
 
 The people of Savannah are justly 
 proud of their well-disciplined and effi- 
 cient uniformed police, all white, and of 
 her thoroughly-organized and effective 
 fire department, which comprises four 
 first-class steamers, with several hand- 
 engine, hose, and hook and ladder com- 
 panies. 
 
 HIDES, DEIVES, BTO. 
 
 Savannah is not without suburban at- 
 tractions, there being several places in its 
 vicinity of historical interest, whose syl- 
 van character and picturesque beauty are 
 in Iceeping with the " Forest City " itself. 
 Thundermt, White Bluff, lale of Hope, 
 and Vernon, are all rural retreats on " the 
 salts," within short drives of the city, 
 where, in the summer months, the bracing 
 sea-breeze and salt-water bathing are en- 
 joyed. At each one of these places, 
 which are reached in a few minutes by an 
 extension of the city railroad, are small 
 settlements and good accommodations for 
 visitors. Bethema, about ten miles from 
 the city, where the Union Farm School is 
 146 
 
 located, was the site of the Orphan House 
 established by Whjtefield in 1740. Jas- 
 per firing, the scene of a brave and 
 famous exploit of the old Revolutionary 
 war time, lies near the Augusta road, tw(f 
 miles and a half westward from Savannah. 
 The spring is a fountain of purest water, 
 in the midst of a marshy spot, covered 
 with rank shrubbery, at the edge of a for- 
 est of oak and pine trees. The interest 
 of the place is in its association only. Ser- 
 geant Jasper, aided only by one compan- 
 ion, watched by this spring for the passage 
 of a party of American prisoners under 
 a British guard of eight men, whom they 
 boldly and successfiilly assailed, restoring 
 the captives to their country and friends. 
 In memory of this action, Sergeant Jas- 
 per's name has been given to one of the 
 public parks of the city, as we have al- 
 ready seen. 
 
 The great drive is out to Bonaveii- 
 tare Cemetery, which is situated on War- 
 saw River, a branch of the Savannah, 
 about four miles from the city. The 
 scenery of Bonaventure has long been re- 
 nowned for its Arcadian beauty. A hun- 
 dred years ago the seat of the Tetnalls, 
 a wealthy English family, the grounds 
 round the mansion, of which only a dim 
 outline of its foundations remains, were 
 laid out in wide avenues, and planted 
 with native live-oaks. These trees, long 
 since fully grown, stand Uke massive col- 
 umns on either side, while their far-reach- 
 ing branches interlacing overhead like the 
 frilled roof of some vast cathedral, the 
 deep shade of their evergreen foliage 
 shutting out the sky above, and the long 
 gray moss-drapery depending from the 
 leafy canopy, silent and still, or gently 
 moving in the breeze, give to the scene a 
 weird and strangely-sombre aspect at once 
 picturesque and grandly solemn. A more 
 beautiful or more solemn home for the 
 dead than in the shades of these green 
 forest aisles cannot well . be imagined. 
 The endless cypress-groves of the " silent 
 cities " by the Bosporus are not more 
 impressive than the intricate web of these 
 still forest-walks. Many years ago Bona- 
 venture was devoted to the purpose for 
 which it is so peculiarly fitted by Nature, 
 and became the burial-place of many of 
 the prominent famihes of Savannah, whose 
 memorial monuments add to its solemn 
 
 i i,! 
 
Stations.] 
 
 GEOEGIA. 
 
 [Augusta. 
 
 beauty. Eeoently the place has been 
 purchased by a company, by whom it has 
 been enclosed,' the trees trimmed, the 
 grounds cleared of their rank growth, laid 
 out in lots, and opened to the public as a 
 cemetery. In this operation much of the 
 wild beauty of Bonaventure has been 
 literally trimmed away, thus demonstrat- 
 ing the fact that, in the picturesque at 
 least, it is not always in the power of art 
 to improve upon Nature. 
 
 Thunderbolt, another beautiful summer 
 resort, is on the bank of the Warsaw Biver, 
 about a mile farther than Bonaventure. 
 According to local tradition, this place re- 
 ceived its name from the fall of a thun- 
 derbolt. A spring of water, which issued 
 from the spot upon that event, has con- 
 tinued to flow ever since. 
 
 Gfuristersiffo JSaille-Jield, eight miles dis- 
 tant, was the scene of an engagement, in 
 1782, between General Wayne and a 
 body of Indians under their chief Guris- 
 tersigo. 
 
 ^ort Pulaski, on Cockspur Island, near 
 Tybee Island, situate on the south side 
 of the entrance to Savannah Kiver, was 
 the scene of a severe bombardment dur- 
 ing the naval operations on the coast, in 
 the first year of the war. It was attacked 
 from batteries erected on Tybee Island, 
 and surrendered April 11, 1862. 
 
 Fort McAllister, near King's Bridge, on 
 the west bank of the Ogeechee, is well 
 worthy a visit. It is reached by the Gulf 
 Railway. 
 
 MOUTE I. 
 
 AWaUSTA TO ATLANTA. 
 Via Georgia Hailway. 
 
 Stations. — Augusta (connects with 
 South Carolina, Charlotte, Columbia & 
 Augusta, and Augusta & Savannah Kail- 
 ways) to Berzelia, 21 miles ; Bearing, 29 ; 
 Camak (connects with Macon & Augusta 
 Railway), il; Bamett (connects with 
 Washington Branches), 57 ; XTnion Point 
 (connects with Athens Branch), 76 ; 
 Greensboro', 84; Madison, 104; Social 
 Circle, 120 ; Covington, 130 ; Conyers, 
 141; Stone Mountain, 156 ; Atlanta (con- 
 nects with Macon & Western and Western 
 & Atlantic Railways), IVl. 
 
 Angrnsta,. — Augusta, one of the 
 
 most beautiful cities in the South, and 
 the second in population and importance 
 in Georgia, is on the eastern boundary of 
 the State, upon the banks of the Savannah 
 River, 230 miles from its mouth, and at 
 the head of its navigable waters, 120 
 miles north-northwest from Savannah, 
 and 136 northwest from Charleston, with 
 both of which cities it has long been con- 
 nected by railroad. 
 
 The Savannah, although at the head of 
 navigation, is wide at this point, and its 
 shores are picturesque. Along the high 
 banks upon which Augusta is situated are 
 rows of old mulberry-trees, the trunks of 
 which are covered with warts and knots, 
 and the roots exposed by the washings of 
 many freshets. Facing these trees are 
 many pleasantly-situated cottages and 
 villas, with very charming prospects of 
 the river and the green slopes of the op- 
 posite shore. The Savannah, the largest 
 river of Georgia, and forming the boun- 
 dary between this State and South Caro- 
 lina, rises by two head-streams, the Tug- 
 aloo and Kiowee, in the Appalachian 
 chain, and near the sources of the Ten- 
 nessee and Hiawassee on the one side, 
 and the Chattahoochee on the other. 
 From the junction of these confluents, at 
 Andersonville, the river has a course of 450 
 miles to the sea. It is navigable by steam- 
 ers to Augusta, a distance of 230 miles. 
 The river-voyage between Augusta and 
 Savannah is a very pleasant one, present- 
 ing to the eye of a stranger many attractive 
 and rural scenes. The town was laid out 
 in 1735, under royal charter. It was 
 again chartered January 31, 1798, and in- 
 corporated as a city December 19, 1817. 
 The area embraced by the city is two 
 miles in length and about one in width. 
 Its present population is over 16,000, 
 and is steadily increasing. The wide 
 avenues of Augusta may claim the palm 
 for beauty among city thoroughfares. 
 The principal one, Greene Street, is 
 lined with fine mansions ; tall spread- 
 ing trees not only grace the sidewalks, 
 but a double row, with grassy spaces be- 
 tween, runs down the centre of the ample 
 roadway. This sets beautiful park- 
 grounds before every man's door ; and 
 the children playing under the trees, and 
 the roaming cattle that are allowed to 
 gather in the grateful shade, give the 
 147 
 
AtrStTSTA.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stone Mountain. 
 
 scene a domestic peace that is very obann- 
 ing. BroaS Street, the maiu thorough- 
 fare of the city, is a noble avenue. This 
 is the Broadway of the city, wherein all 
 the shopping and promenading are done, 
 and where the banks, and hotels, and 
 markets, are to be found. Of late years, 
 Augusta has spread itself greatly over the 
 level lands westward. 
 
 A good view of Augusta may be had 
 from SummerviUe, a suburban town of 
 handsome villas, situated on high hills 
 two or three miles from the city. A line 
 of horse-cars runs from the town to the 
 summit of the range. Here are situated 
 many villas and cottages, embowered in 
 trees, with broad verandas, handsome 
 gardens, and many signs of wealth and 
 culture. The scene is more Northern in 
 its general features than Southern ; the 
 houses are ,like those of the North, 
 and the gardens not essentially diiferent, 
 although the Spanish bayonet — that queer 
 horticultural caprice, with its bristling 
 head of pikes — shows a proximity to 
 tropical vegetation. These heights form 
 a part of the famous red sand-hills of 
 Georgia, and a characteristic feature are 
 the rich red tints of the roadways. 
 
 Among the objects of interest at Sum- 
 merviUe, are the United States Arsenal, 
 buUt in 1827, and the long range of work- 
 shops bailt and used by the Confederates 
 during the war. The latter extend up- 
 ward of 500 feet in length, are sub- 
 stantially built, and present an imposing 
 eifect. Returning to the city by leaving 
 the main road to the left, a short distance 
 fcova. the Arsenal the traveller can get a 
 view of the Powder Mill and Cotton Fac- 
 tories immediately on the outskirts of the 
 city. These latter are very extensive, and 
 give constant employment to 700 opera- 
 tives. There are other pleasant drives 
 along the banks of the Savannah, partic- 
 ularly below the city ; and across the 
 river at Hamburg there are some beauti- 
 ful wooded and grassy terraces, known 
 as Sohultz's Hill, and much resorted to as 
 a picnic-ground. 
 
 Augusta has one or two iine public 
 buildings. Among these are the Masonic 
 SaU, a massive and imposing; structure, 
 a handsome Odd-Fellows^ Hall, and an 
 Opera - House of good dimensions and 
 considerable beauty. The City Hall, 
 148 
 
 built at a cost of $100,000, the Medical 
 College, and the Bichmond Academy, are 
 every way creditable to the taste and lib- 
 erality of the people. The monument 
 which stands in front of the City Hall 
 was erected to the memory of the signers 
 of the Declaration of Independence from 
 the State of Georgia. The churches are 
 about fifteen in number. St. Patrick's, 
 corner of Jackson and Telfair Streets, 
 constructed in 1863, at a cost of $42,000, 
 is a fine edifice. • The Market Homes are 
 on Broad Street, and are three-fourths of 
 a mile apart. The rapid development of 
 the up-country of Georgia, within a few 
 years, has brought down to Augusta, by 
 her railways, great prosperity ; and the 
 water-power, which has been secured by 
 means of a canal, which brings the upper 
 floods of the Savannah River to the city, 
 at an elevation of some 40 feet, is enlarg- 
 ing and enriching it by extensive and 
 profitable manufactures. This canal, 
 nine miles in length, was constructed in 
 1845. There is a City Cemetery, which 
 exhibits the taste and care which, in 
 America, are now so commonly bestowed 
 upon," God's acre." Just outside of the 
 city, and east of the cemetery, are the 
 Fair Grounds of the Cotton States Me- 
 chanics' and Agricultural Fair Associa- 
 tion, which were opened in 1870. Situ- 
 ated upon a plain, level as the sea, the 
 grounds are especially adapted to the 
 uses which they serve. They embrace 
 altogether about 47 acres, and are laid 
 out in magnificent walks and drives. 
 
 Gri-eensboro (84 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Greene County, . contains several 
 fine buildings, including a court-house, 
 churches, and academies. 
 
 Madison (104 miles), capital of 
 Morgan County, is a flourishing town, 
 pleasantly situated in a beautiful and fer- 
 tile region. It is the mart for the cotton 
 raised in the vicinity, and ha^ a large 
 trade. 1% is noted for the excellence of 
 its educational institutions, among which 
 are the Baptist Collegiate Institute and 
 the Madison Female College (Methodist). 
 It is a popular place with Northern set- 
 tlers. 
 
 Social Circle (120 miles) is a 
 thriving village, and is the shipping-de- 
 pot for the produce of the county. 
 
 Stone IMonntaln (156 miles), in 
 
Atlakta.] 
 
 GEOEGU. 
 
 [Atlanta. 
 
 De Kalb County, is a Tillage of much in- 
 terest to tlie tourist. At this place is an 
 isolated, dome-shaped granite rock, which 
 is visited annually by thousands of per- 
 sons, and is considered one of the most 
 magnificent natural objects in the State. 
 It rises about 2,200 feet above the sea. 
 On the summit, there is a tower 180 feet 
 high, commanding a prospect of great 
 extent and beauty. There are several 
 hotels in the village, which is a favorite 
 resort for picnic-parties from Atlanta. 
 
 Atlanta (171 miles). This city is 
 the outgrowth of the railroad system 
 centring there. It is essentially a rail- 
 road town. The original charter of the 
 Western & Atlantic Railway authorized 
 its construction from Chattanooga, Ten- 
 nessee, to the southeast bank of the 
 Chattahoochee River. In 1837 an act 
 was passed authorizing its extension 
 eight miles in a southeasterly direction, 
 the survey for which brought it to the 
 site of the present city. In 1846 the 
 Georgia Railroad was completed to At- 
 lanta, and formed a" junction with the 
 Chattanooga & Atlanta or " State Road," 
 as it is locally known. In 1848 the Ma- 
 con & Western Railroad was completed, 
 but little progress was made toward a 
 permanent settlement until 1852. Even 
 as late as 1853, the population of the 
 place scarcely amounted to 1,500. 
 
 Atlanta lies nearly eleven hundred feet 
 above the level of the sea, and is pic- 
 turesquely built upon hilly ground, which 
 gives variety to the view, and furnishes 
 an excellent system of natural drainage. 
 Good building-sites are abundant, and 
 from many parts of the business and pri- 
 vate streets the pedestrian may catch 
 glimpses of sylvan beauty, and rare 
 reaches of romantic mountain-scenery 
 beyond the environs. The general plan 
 of the city is in the form of a circle, 
 having a diameter of about three miles. 
 The new Union Passenger Depot is the 
 centre of the present incorporated area. 
 
 Apart from the memorable siege with 
 which its name is inseparably connected, 
 Atlanta possesses little to interest the 
 traveller or tourist. Owing to its com- 
 manding central position, in the very 
 heart of the South, not less than on ac- 
 count of its railroad, manufacturing, and 
 other important advantages, it became a 
 
 point of the utmost importance early in 
 the war. Indeed, in the opinion of those 
 best qualified to judge, its importance 
 was second only to that of Richmond. 
 The series of active military operations 
 of which Atlanta was the centre com- 
 menced July 9, 1864, by the retreat of 
 General Johnston within the fortifica- 
 tions of Atlanta, which extended nearly 
 6^ miles along the river. By the 17th of 
 July, the Federal forces, with the excep- 
 tion of one (Davis's) division of the Four- 
 teenth Corps, were across the Chattahoo- 
 chee, and, on the 18th, occupied the 
 Georgia Railroad, from Stone Mountain, 
 on the northeast, to Decatur and Peach 
 Tree Creek, within five miles of Atlanta. 
 On the 17t!i the command of the Confed- 
 erate troops was transferred to General 
 Hood. From that time, up to the 1st of 
 September, a vigorous siege of the city 
 was kept up, when General Hood gave 
 orders for the evacuation of the works, 
 it having been discovered that the main 
 body of the besieging army lay between 
 the city and General Hardee. Fire was 
 set to the rolling-stock of the several 
 railroads concentrating here, and to all 
 the stores and ammunition, and soon the 
 heavens were lurid with the flames which 
 rose from the doomed city. A reconnoi- 
 tring column from General Slocum's com- 
 mand entered the city on the 2d, and 
 received its formal surrender from Mayor 
 Calhoun. It is estimated that upward 
 of 1,000 buildings, mcluding the princi- 
 pal factories, mills, and workshops, were 
 destroyed by this fire. The city is rising, 
 phoenix-like, from its ashes ; the greater 
 portion of the burnt district has already 
 been rebuilt, and is now much larger 
 than ever before. The corporate limits 
 embrace an area of four miles square, 
 and the population, already 20,000, is 
 rapidly increasing. 
 
 In 1868 Milledgeville ceased to be the 
 capital of Georgia, and all the ofSces of 
 the State government were removed to 
 Atlanta. The Slate Capi-iol is an impos- 
 ing building, originally designed for an 
 opera-house, but recently purchased by 
 the State for half a million dollars, and 
 converted into legislative halls and gov- 
 ernment offices. The structure is five 
 stories in height, with Mansard roof, and 
 a lofty cupola, frequently visited by 
 149 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUR. 
 
 [Alioona. 
 
 strangers on account of the fine view of 
 Atlanta and its vicinity obtainable from 
 this point. 
 
 The new Union Pcasenger Depot is an 
 elegant and very extensive edifice, 352 
 feet in length by 120 in breadth, con- 
 structed of iron and brick, with a gal- 
 vanized - iron roof, supported by 40 
 wrought - iron pillars, and graced by 
 towers covered with variegated slate. 
 The cost of the building, when com- 
 pleted, will be $175,000. 
 
 The City Ball is a massive structure, 
 beautifully located, and many extensive 
 and highly-finished business-blocks pro- 
 claim the wealth and commercial enter- 
 prise of the city. _ 
 
 De Oive's Opera -Souse is the only 
 prominent place of public amusement. 
 Other pubhc buildings are the Medical 
 College, the AHania University/ (colored), 
 and the Presbyterian, Metlwdist, and Bap- 
 tist Churches. 
 
 Hotels : The JS^mhaU S&me is con- 
 sidered the finest and most elaborately- 
 appointed hotel in the Southern States. 
 It is six stories in height, crowned with 
 an elegant cupola ; has a frontage of 210 
 by 163 feet, on three streets, 317 rooms, 
 a dining-hall, seating comfortably over 
 200 guests, and cost, inclusive of furni- 
 ture, $660,000. 
 
 The National is also a popular and 
 well-appointed hotel, which for solid com- 
 fort and polite attendance is to be pre- 
 ferred to the Kimball House. 
 
 JtOUTJS II. 
 
 ATLANTA TO CHATTANOOGA. 
 Via Western and Atlanta Sail/way. 
 
 Stations : — Chattanooga ; Chickamau- 
 ga, 10 miles ; Ringgold, 23 ; Dalton (con- 
 nects with Dalton Branch of East Ten- 
 nessee & Georgia Railway), 38 ; Resaca, 
 64 ; AdairsviUe (Junction of Rome 
 (Georgia) Railway), 69 ; Kingston, 79 ; 
 CartersvUle (Junction with Cherokee 
 Railway), 91 ; Altoona, 98 ; Marietta, 
 118; Atlanta, 138. 
 
 We give • the stations of this road in 
 reverse order, because the chief interest 
 that, attaches to this region arises from 
 the fact that it was the arena of one of 
 the fiercest and most obstinate struggles 
 of the civil war — the campaign, namely, 
 between Sherman and Johnston, which, I 
 150 
 
 as already described, culminated in the 
 fall of Atlanta. This campaign com- 
 menced in the vicinity of Chattanooga, 
 and extended directly down the line of 
 the railway to Atlanta. Mementos of the 
 struggle may be seen by the traveller on 
 the crests of nearly every one of the huge 
 ranges of hills which mark the topog- 
 raphy of the country, in the shape of 
 massive breastworks and battlements, 
 which time and the elements are already 
 fast obliterating. The whole country 
 from Altoona to the Chattahoochee River 
 appears to have been one vast series of 
 fortifications, and, where Kature and art , 
 cooperated so efficiently, it would seem 
 impossible for human skill to have over- 
 come the obstacles. 
 
 Chattanooga and Chickamauga are de- 
 scribed in the chapter on Tennessee. 
 
 ]>a.ltoii (38 miles) was really the 
 initial point of the famous campaign of 
 1864. It was strongly fortified by Gen- 
 eral Johnston, and could probably have 
 been held against any direct attack, but 
 the position was flanked by General Sher- 
 man, and was evacuated by the' Confed- 
 erates on May 12, 1864. Dalton is the 
 point of junction between the Dalton 
 Branch of the East Tennessee & Georgia 
 and the Selma, Rome & Dalton Railways, 
 which, it is claimed, forms the shortest 
 route between New York and New Or- 
 leans. It is a flourishing town of about 
 2,500 inhabitants. Large quantities of 
 grain, produced in the adjacent counties, 
 are received here and forwarded to At- 
 lanta. Mountains of considerable height 
 environ the place. 
 
 Resaca (64 miles), the place, of the 
 next stand made by General Johnston, 
 was the scene of severe and indecisive 
 fighting between the two armies, but was 
 finally captured by a flank-march on the 
 part of General Sherman. 
 
 Retreating from this point, General 
 Johnston took position at 
 
 Altoona. (98' miles). This was a 
 position wellnigh impregnable, and it 
 was expected that General Johnston 
 would make a permanent stand here, but 
 it too was successfully flanked and the 
 Confederate army forced back to the 
 Chattahoochee and the immediate vicin- 
 ity of Atlanta. How it was manoeuvred 
 across the river and into the breastworks 
 
Makieiia.] 
 
 GEORGU. 
 
 [Macon. 
 
 around Atlanta, and finally driven from 
 the city, is described in a preceding para- 
 graph. {See Atlanta.) 
 
 marietta. (118 miles) is a pretty 
 little village of 3,000 inhabitants, situ- 
 ated about 20 miles from Atlanta, at the 
 base of Kennesaw Mountain. It was the 
 seat of the State Military Academy pre- 
 vious to the war, and is much resorted 
 to during the summer-time by the people 
 of Atlanta. It is the highest point on 
 the Western & Atlantic lUilway. 
 
 MOUTE III. 
 
 ATLANTA TO MAOON. 
 Via Macon & Western Railway. 
 
 Statiohs : — Atlanta (connects with At- 
 lanta & West Point, Western & Atlantic, 
 and Georgia Railways) ; East Point, 6 
 miles ; Jonesboro', 22 ; Fayette, 36 ; 
 GriflSn (connects with Savannah, Griffin 
 & North Alabama Railway), 43 ; Barnes- 
 ville (connects with TTpson County Rail- 
 way for Thomaston), 61 ; Forsyth, 77 ; 
 Crawford's, 88 ; Macon (connects with 
 Central Georgia, and Southwestern & 
 Muscogee Railways), 103. 
 
 Atlanta is described in Rovte I. 
 
 Jonesboro' (22 mUes) is a thriv- 
 ing village of Fayette Coimty. It was 
 the scene of a bloody battle on Septem- 
 ber 1, 1864, between the Federal forces 
 under General Sherman and Hardee's 
 corps of the Confederate army. General 
 Hardee had been sent by Hood to pro- 
 tect the railway and keep open his com- 
 munications, and had intrenched himself 
 in a strong position just outside the vil- 
 lage. At 4 p. M. the Fourteenth Corps of 
 Sherman's army was ordered to the as- 
 sault, and, after a desperate conflict of two 
 hours, broke Hardee's lines, capturing 
 two batteries and several battle-flags. It 
 was the result of this battle which deter- 
 mined General Hood to evacuate Atlanta. 
 
 Oriffin (43 miles), the county-seat 
 of Spalding County, is a handsome vil- 
 lage, pleasantly situated in a good cot- 
 ton-region. It was laid out in 1840. 
 
 BarneaTille (61 miles) is a small 
 village of no special attractiveness ; and 
 
 Porsytli (7T miles), the capital of 
 Monroe County, is a prosperous little 
 town. Stages from here for the Indian 
 and Merriweaiher Springa. 
 
 niacon (103 miles), one of the most 
 prosperous and populous cities of Geor- 
 gia, is prettily situated on the Ocmulgee 
 River, at the western terminus of the 
 Central Railway. Occupying so central 
 and important a position, it is not a little 
 surprising that it entirely escaped the 
 ravages of war. It stands on high 
 ground, and, like most of the cities of 
 the State, it is well laid out. The streets 
 are generally 180 feet wide, and adorned 
 with shade-trees. The soil, being of a 
 sandy, porous character, does not long re- 
 tain moisture, and is healthy and inviting. 
 Hotels : Spottiswood Souse and Brown 
 House. The Wesleyan Female College, a 
 flourishing institution before the war, 
 and even now numbering over 100 stu- 
 dents, is situated here. The Acadmiy 
 for the Blind, built by the State, of 
 brick, four stories high, is an imposing 
 edifice. It has, also, a Botanico-Medieal 
 College, a Free Academy, and several 
 schools for orphans. There are several 
 iron founderies, flour-mills, and machine- 
 shops. The Macon factory is prosperously 
 engaged in the manufacture of coarse cot- 
 ton goods. Rose Sill Cemetery, on the 
 banks of the Ocmulgee, is a pretty rural 
 retreat, within easy walking distance of 
 the city. It is well improved, and con- 
 tains some fine monuments. Lamar's 
 Mound is a rising ground, covered with 
 fine private residences, a continuation of 
 which brings the visitor to the pleasant 
 surburban village of Vineville. 'The pop- 
 ulation of the city is upward of 10,000, 
 and increasing. Among the manufactur- 
 ing establishments are three iron foun- 
 deries and machine-shops, employing a few 
 hundred hands. The railroads centring 
 here, six in number, have fine workshops, 
 and employ a considerable number of me- 
 chanics and laborers. There are also manu- 
 factories which supply the local wants of 
 the neighborhood, such as sashes, blinds, 
 bricks, etc., besides several flouring-mills. 
 These last ship flour to all points. 
 
 nOUTE IV. 
 
 MACOJir TO COLUMBVS. 
 Via SoutMcestem and Muscogee Sailroadi, 
 
 Stations : — Macon (connects with Cen- 
 tral Georgia and Macon & Western RaU- 
 161 
 
FoKT Valley.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [EtTFAULA. 
 
 ways) ; Echecormee, 12 miles ; Fort Val- 
 ley, 28 ; Everett's, 36 ; Butler, 50 ; Gene- 
 va, 70 ; Upatoie, 80 ; Columbus (comiects 
 with Mobile & Girard, and Opelika & 
 Columbus Railways), 100. 
 
 Macon, is already described. {See 
 page 151.) 
 
 TPort Talley (28 miles) is an at- 
 tractive village in Houston County. It 
 is the junction of the Southwestern Rail- 
 way and the Muscogee Branch, and has 
 two creditable church edifices and a 
 flourishing female academy. 
 
 Crene-ra {10 miles) is a small sta- 
 tion whence stages run to Talbotton, a 
 thriving town of Talbot County, and the 
 Chalybeate and Warm Springs. 
 
 Colnin1>ns (100 miles) is a town 
 of considerable trade, situated on the 
 east bank of the Chattahoochee River, 
 which forms the western boundary of the 
 State. Across the river has been erected 
 a fine bridge, connecting Columbus with 
 the town of Girard, Alabama. It was laid 
 out in 1827, on what was then known as 
 the Coweta Reserve, at the head of the 
 Falls. These falls supply one of the 
 finest water-powers to be found in the 
 South, and the manufacturing interests 
 of the city are already very extensive. 
 It is the centre of a fine agricultural dis- 
 trict, and large quantities of cotton are 
 shipped hence to the seaboard, via the 
 Chattahoochee {see Chattahoochee Rrv- 
 ek). 
 
 The three fiouring and grist mills in 
 Columbus annually consume 100,000 
 bushels of wheat and 60,000 bushels of 
 com. The principal buildings are the 
 Court-Hmise, Presbyterian Church, Tem- 
 perance Hall, Bank of Columbus, and two 
 hotels. The streets are all wide, and laid 
 out at right angles. Of the three bridges 
 which formerly crossed the river at this 
 point, and which were destroyed during 
 the war (April, 1865), but one has been 
 rebuilt. The city has railway communi- 
 cation with all important points in the 
 State. Population, 10,000. Just above 
 Columbus there are some picturesque 
 rapids in the Chattahoochee, overlooked 
 by a fine rocky bluff, famous in story as 
 the "Lover's Leap." The scene would 
 be a gem in regions the most renowned 
 for natural beauty. On the left, the river 
 pursues its downward course to the city, 
 132 
 
 in a straight line. Its flow is rapid and 
 wild, broken by rocks, over which the 
 water frets and foams in angry surges. 
 The bed of the stream is that of- a deep 
 ravine, its walls lofty and irregular cliffs, 
 covered to their verge with majestic for- 
 est-growth. From this point the city of 
 Columbus is but parteally visible. The 
 village of Girard and the surrounding 
 hills on the Alabama side form a distinct 
 and beautiful background to the picture. 
 Hotels : Cook's Hotel and the Perry 
 House are both very good houses. 
 
 MOUTE V. 
 
 MACOir TO SUFAJTLA, ALA, 
 Via SovSvwestem BaVmay. 
 
 Stations : — Macon ; Eoheconnee, 12 
 mdes ; Fort Valley, 28 ; Marshallville, 
 35 ; Montezuma, 48 ; Americus, 70 ; 
 Smithville, 83. 
 
 Branch to Albast. — Smithville, 83 1 
 Albany (connects with South Georgia & 
 Florida Railway), 94. 
 
 Main Line {eorAnued\ — Smithville, 
 83 ; Dawson, 98 ; Cuthbert, 118 ; Morris, 
 128 ; Eufaula, 144. 
 
 This route, as far as Fort Valley, is 
 identical with Route III. 
 
 !Port Valley has already been de- 
 scribed. 
 
 Americns (70 miles) is a thriving 
 viHage, the capital of Sumter County ; 
 one of the best cotton-regions of the 
 State. It is situated on Muokalee Creek, 
 was incorporated in 1832, and has a pop- 
 ulation of about 1,800. 
 
 Smitli'ville (83 miles) is the point 
 where the branch road to Albany leaves 
 the main line. 
 
 Albany (94 miles), the capital of 
 Dougherty County, is an incorporated 
 city of about 4,000 inhabitants, situated 
 on Flint River, up which steamboats 
 come from the Gulf of Mexico. The 
 surrounding country is considered as 
 fertile as any portion of Georgia, and 
 Albany has a very active trade. Blue 
 Spring, three miles distant, abounds in 
 fish. 
 
 Hotels : Tovm House and Albany House. 
 Terms, $3 per day. 
 
 Kufaala, Ala. (134jDailes). {See 
 chapter on Alabama. 
 
Hawkinstille.] 
 
 GEORGIA. 
 
 [McIhtosh. 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 MACON TO £IiimaWICK. 
 Via Macon & Bnmswici: Railway. 
 
 Stations : — Macon (connects with Ma- 
 con & Western Railway) ; Bullard, 15 
 mUes ; Buzzard - Roost, 26 ; Cochran 
 (branch to Hawkinsville, 50 miles), 36 ; 
 Eastman, 55 ; MacRae's, 75 ; Lumber 
 City, 93 ; Baxley, 116 ; Satilla, 136 ; 
 Jesup (connects with Atlantic & Gulf 
 Railway for Bainbridge, Quincy, etc.), 
 146 ; Buffalo, 166 ; Brunswick (passen- 
 gers to and from Brunswick make close 
 connection at Jesup with express-train 
 to and from Sayannah), 186. 
 
 macon is described in Route III. 
 {See p. 151.) 
 
 HaTrklnsTille (60 miles), the 
 capital of Pulaski County, is on the west 
 bank of the Ocmulgee Riyer. 
 
 ILiiiiu1>ei- City (93 miles), in Tel- 
 fair County, is on the Ocmulgee River. 
 
 9talu1>ridge, capital of Decatur 
 County, is a village of about 2,500 in- 
 habitants, on the left bank of the Flint 
 River (see p. 155). 
 
 Btrans^trick (186 miles), capital 
 of Glynn County, is a port of entry on 
 Tuttle River. It is agreeably situated 
 on a sandy bluif, about ten feet above 
 high water. It has a spacious harbor. 
 St. Simon's light-house is about eight 
 miles from the town. Efforts are making 
 now to render Brunswick an important 
 shipping-port. 
 
 nouTE rii. 
 
 BAYAWSAH TO ALBAITT AND BAIN- 
 BBIDGE. 
 
 Via AtkmUc & Gulf Bailmay. 
 Stations : — Savannah (connects with 
 Savannah & Charleston and Central 
 Georgia Railways, and New York, Phila- 
 delphia, Baltimore, and Boston steam- 
 ships) ; MiUer's, 10 miles ; Way's, 16 ; 
 Flemmg, 24; Mcintosh, 32; Walthour- 
 viUe, 39 ; Johnson, 46 ; Doctortown, 63 ; 
 Jesup, junction Macon & Brunswick Hail- 
 way (connects with Macon & Brunswick 
 Railway for Macon, Atlanta, and princi- 
 pal cities of the South and West), 57 ; 
 Scriven, 68 ; Patterson, '11 ; Blackshear, 
 
 86 ; Tcbeanville, 9'7 ; Glenmore, 108 ; 
 Argyle, 115; Homersville, 122; Lawton 
 (connects with Florida Division), 131 ; 
 Stockton, 139 ; Naylor, 144 ; Valdosta, 
 151; Ousley's, 166; Quitman, 174; Dix- 
 ie's, 181 ; Boston, 188 ; Thomasville (con- 
 nects with Albany Division), 200. . 
 
 Albany Division. — Okloknee, 211; 
 Pelham, 224; Camilla, 232; Baconton, 
 242 ; Hardaway, 252 ; Albany (connects 
 with Southern Railway), 258. 
 
 Main Line {contiimed). — Cairo, 214; 
 Wingham, 221 ; Climax, 228 ; Bainbridge 
 (connects with steamers for Columbus, 
 Fort Gaines, Eufaula, and Appalachicola), 
 236. 
 
 This route takes the tourist from Sa- 
 vannah to Bainbridge (and Jacksonville, 
 Florida) without change of cars. It is 
 the great connecting-link between the 
 Atlantic coast railways from the North 
 {via Savannah) and Southern Georgia and 
 Florida. The main trunk extends from 
 Savannah to Bainbridge, on the Flint 
 River, nearly to the Alabama State line, 
 a distance of 236 miles. There are two 
 branch roads : one beginning at Lawton 
 and extending to Live Oak, a distance 
 of 48 miles, and connecting with the 
 Jacksonville, Pensacola & Mobile Railway ; 
 and the other from Thomasville to Al- 
 bany, Georgia, a distance of 58 miles. 
 The Atlantic & Gulf Railway, also, con- 
 nects at Jesup with the Macon & Bruns- 
 wick Railway. (;S'ee Route VI.) 
 
 Savannali is described on p. 142. 
 
 ■Way's (16 miles) is a wood-station, 
 a mile east of where the road crosses the 
 great Ogeechee River. Some of the largest 
 rice-plantations in the State are situated 
 on the banks of this stream. A short 
 distance below the bridge the blockade- 
 runner Rattlesnake, formerly the Nash- 
 ville, was sunk by the guns of the Fed- 
 eral fleet, then lying below Genesis Point. 
 
 X'leming (24 miles) is a telegraph- 
 station, about 15 miles from the harbor 
 of Sunbury, one of the oldest settlements 
 in the State. The old Sunbury Fort is 
 an object of interest to visitors. 
 
 IMcIntosh (32 miles) is two and a 
 half miles from the village of Flemington, 
 Liberty County ; five miles from Hines- 
 ville, the county town ; and 10 miles 
 from Riceboro', the head of navigation 
 on the North Newport River. 
 
 163 
 
WALTHOCRyiLLE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Thomastille. 
 
 n'a.Itbon.rTille (39 miles), a re- 
 sort for invalids, before the war was the 
 Bummer residence of the wealthy planters 
 of Liberty County. The village of Wal- 
 thourville is three miles from the station. 
 It has a population of about 300 souls, 
 and contains a Presbyterian and Baptist 
 Church. There is good deer- and par- 
 tridge-shooting in the neighborhood. 
 Transient visitors can obtain good board 
 in the village for from $1.80 to $2 a day. 
 
 Johnston. (46 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage, with abundance of game in the vi- 
 cinity. 
 
 The road now descends into the vaUey 
 of the Altamaha River. The river is 
 crossed by the Atlantic & Crulf Railway 
 on a lattice bridge of four spans. Near 
 the mouth of the stream is Darien, where 
 a large trade is carried on in lumber and 
 timber. In the swamp is abundance of 
 cypress and oak, the former being made 
 into shingles, and shipped to Macon, Sa- 
 vannah, and Northern ports, and the lat- 
 ter is converted , into staves and shipped 
 to France and Spain. 
 
 Doctortotm (53 miles) is near 
 the site of %n old Indian settlement, and 
 owes its name to having been the abode 
 of a great " medicine man." 
 
 Jesup (67 miles), a telegraph-sta- 
 tion, is at the junction of the Macon S 
 Brunswicle Railway. One changes cars 
 here for Macon, Atlanta, and all points 
 in Middle and Northern Georgia, Ala- 
 bama and Tennessee. 
 
 Xe'beanT'iUc (97 miles) is a small 
 telegraph-station, near the head of the 
 great Okefonokee Swamp, where game 
 and fish abound. In the neighborhood 
 of the station are two saw-mUls cutting 
 about 15,000 feet of lumber daily. Ho- 
 tel : Railroad House. Terms, $2 per day. 
 
 I^afrton (131 miles) is a telegraph- 
 station at the junction with the Florida 
 branch of the Atlantic & Gulf Railway. 
 Hotel : Railroad House. Terms, $2 per 
 day. 
 
 Stockton (139 miles) and Nay- 
 lor (144 miles), wood - stations, are 
 passed ; and we reach 
 
 Taldosta. (157 miles), the capital 
 of Lowndes County, the largest town 
 on the railroad between Savannah and 
 Thomasville ; population, about 2,000. 
 This place has five white and two negro 
 154 
 
 churches, and two well-kept hotels — Rail- 
 road Hotel ani 'I'rwnqml Hall, where ac- 
 commodations for permanent guests may 
 be had at $5 per week. It ships about 
 6,000 bales of cotton during the season.- 
 Among the natural curiosities in the 
 neighborhood is a small river which en- 
 ters a cave and disappears. Near Val- 
 dosta are Ocean Pond and Long Pond, 
 from three to five miles in extent, which 
 afibrd the best fresh -water fishing in 
 Georgia. 
 
 From Valdosta westward to Thomas- 
 ville, the road passes through a fine roll- 
 ing country, well watered and heavily 
 timbered, principally with yellow pine. 
 This region is said to be very favorable 
 to immigrants. 
 
 Onsley (166 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage,, in the neighborhood of which are 
 several small lakes. Two miles west the 
 road crosses the Withlacoochee River, 
 an affluent of the Suwanee. A sulphur- 
 spring, of some local reputation, lies near 
 the road. 
 
 Quitman (174 miles) is a flourish- 
 ing town of about 1,600 inhabitants, the 
 capital of Brooks County, which contains 
 a number of water and steam mills. The 
 town boasts of two carriage-factories and 
 a cotton and wool factory ; Methodist, 
 Baptist, and Presbyterian churches ; and 
 good educational facilities. Quitman 
 was planned, and the streets blazed out 
 of the pine-forests, in 1860. The DevU'i 
 Hopper is the name of a partly-explored 
 cave in the county, a natural curiosity. 
 The sulphur-springs are four miles from 
 the town. Hotels : Oity Hold and Mc- 
 intosh House. Terms: $2.00 per day, 
 $10.00 per week, and $20.00 per mouth. 
 
 Dixie (181 miles) is near Dry Lake, 
 a handsome sheet of water, and a sink- 
 hole in which three rivers disappear. 
 Bryants Hotel — $1.50 per day. 
 
 Boston (188 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage of great expectations, it being the 
 proposed terminus of two new railroads ; 
 one to St. Mary's, Ga., and the other to 
 Greenfield, Ga. 
 
 Xhomasville (200 miles), the 
 capital of Thomas County, is a thriving 
 town of 4,000 inhabitants, healthily situ- 
 ated on the highest land between Savan- 
 nah and the Flint River. It has broad 
 and well-shaded streets, has Episcopal, 
 
B AINBBIDQE.] 
 
 GEOKGIA. 
 
 [Eatonton. 
 
 Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian, and 
 Boman Catholic churches, and lies mthin 
 a well-settled country, producing cotton 
 and sugar. Grapes are being cultivated 
 in the county with much success. Ho- 
 tels; Gulf liaUroad Bouse, Young's Hotel. 
 Terms, $3 per day or $12 per week. 
 
 Bainbridg'e (236 miles), the 
 western terminus of the Atlantic & Gulf 
 Bailroad, and the capital of Decatur 
 County, is a thriving town of about 2,000 
 population, situated at the head of navi- 
 gation on the Flint River, which is navi- 
 gable all the year round. It is also 
 the terminus of the BainbHdge, Cuthbert 
 & Oolumhis Bailway (narrow gauge), 
 now constructing. Bainbridge contains 
 a cotton-factory, two steam -mills, and 
 three churches. In the neighborhood is 
 excellent lake-fishing. The local ship- 
 ments of cotton are about 11,000 bales 
 per year, and the steamers landing at 
 Bainbridge bring about 16,000 bales an- 
 nually for transmission by rail to Savan- 
 nah. 
 
 HoTBL : Sharon House. Terms, $3 per 
 day, or $15 per week. 
 
 ROUTE nil. 
 
 SA YANNAM TO MA COR, A UG VSTA, AND 
 
 MILLEDGEYILLE. 
 
 Via Georgia Central Baikcay, and 
 
 Ranches. 
 
 Stations : — Savannah — to Blooming- 
 dale, 13 miles ; Eden, 20 ; Egypt, 40 ; 
 Halcyondale, 50 ; Ogeeohee, 62 ; Millen 
 (connects with Augusta & Savannah 
 Branch), 79 ; Hemdon, 90 ; Sebastopol, 
 103; Davisboro', 122; Tennillc, 134; 
 Toomsboro', 154 ; Gordon (connects with 
 MiUedgevUle & Eatonton Branch), 170; 
 Macon (connects with Macon & Western 
 and Southwestern Railways), 190. 
 
 AtJGUSTA Bbanch. — ^Millen, 79 miles 
 from Savannah ; McBean's, 112 ; Augus- 
 ta (connects with Charlotte, Columbus & 
 Augusta and South Carolina Railways), 
 132. 
 
 Eatonton Bbanch. — Gordon, 170 
 miles from Savannah; MiUedgeville, 187 
 miles ; Eatonton, 208 miles. 
 
 The Central Bailway passes through 
 one of the most productive and thickly- 
 settled districts of Georgia, and the trav- 
 eller will see many of the characteristic 
 
 aspects of Southern inland scenery. 
 There are no points, however, of special 
 interest on the route, all the towns beiag 
 small and of merely local importance. 
 
 IffliUen (79 miles) is the point where 
 the road forks, one branch going to Au- 
 gusta (132 miles), and the other to Ma- 
 con (190 miles), where it connects with 
 the system of railways already described. 
 There is a large hotel near the depot, 
 where most of the passenger-trains stop 
 for meals. 
 
 Gordon (170 miles) is where the 
 MiUedgeville branch leaves the main line. 
 It is a thriving town in Wilkinson Coun- 
 ty, whence large quantities of cotton are 
 exported. The town was laid out in 1843. 
 
 miUleagreville (187 miles), till 
 1868 the capital of the State, is a town 
 of about 3,000 inhabitants, pleasantly 
 situated upon the Oconee River, in the 
 midst of a rich cotton - growing re- 
 gion. It has fallen into decay since 
 the removal of the government to At- 
 lanta, and, for the present, the people 
 seem to have lost all energy, and to 
 think of nothing but of the days when 
 the political eminence of MiUedgeville 
 shall be restored. Hotel : the Milledge- 
 vUle Hotel, which is a large structure 
 built for the period when legislators 
 crowded the town during the winter 
 months. By the recent completion of 
 the Augusta & MiUedgevUle RaUroad, 
 which branches from the Georgia RaU- 
 road, at Camak (47 miles), Milledge- 
 viUe has direct connection with Macon, 
 distant 22 miles. Midway is a pretty 
 little village on the railway, two miles 
 below MiUedgevUle. The State Insane 
 Asylum is located here, and is consid- 
 ered among the best in the South. 
 
 Eatonton (208,miles), the county- 
 seat of Putnam County, is pleasantly 
 situated on a high ridge of land, at the 
 terminus of the branch road from Gor- 
 don. It has exceUent schools and at- 
 tractive scenery. 
 
 MOUTE IX. 
 
 ATLANTA TO WEST POINT. 
 Via Atlanta & West Point Bailway, 
 
 Stations: — Atlanta (connects with 
 Georgia EaUway, Macon & Western, and 
 165 
 
Nbwnan.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Clabestiug. 
 
 Western & Atlantic Railways); Fair- 
 bum, 18; Newnan, 40; Grantville, 52; 
 Lagrange, 72; West Point (connects 
 with Western Railway), 8Y. 
 
 Atlanta is described in Rovie I. 
 (See page 149.) 
 
 He-vrnan (40 miles), capital of Cow- 
 eta County, is a thriving village. There 
 are a large paper-mill and cotton-factory 
 a few miles off. 
 
 lia Crrange (72 miles), capital of 
 Troup County, is well known throughout 
 the State for its excellent educational 
 establishments. 
 
 ■West Point (87 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing village on both sides of the Chatta- 
 hoochee River. It has an active trade in 
 cotton, of which large quantities are ex- 
 ported from the vicinity. There are two 
 cotton-factories at this point, which, like 
 all the manufacturing establishments of 
 the South, are in a prosperous condition. 
 
 MOUTE X. 
 
 ATLANTA TO CHABLOTTM, N. C. 
 
 Via Atlanta & Biclammd Air-Line BaUway. 
 
 The Air-Mne Railroad, about which so 
 much talk has been heard in Georgia for 
 several years past, is now (September, 
 1873) just finished, and before the 
 close of the year will probably be in full 
 operation. It extends northeastward 
 from Atlanta in an almost straight line 
 to Charlotte, N. C, and, as the distance 
 between these two cities is only 245 
 miles, the Air-Line brings the Georgia 
 system of railways into much closer con- 
 nection with the Northern lines than the 
 former circuitous route by way of Co- 
 lumbia and Augusta. It forms a part 
 of the great Penn'gylvania Central com- 
 bination, in whose interest it was built, 
 and will doubtless become the chief high- 
 way of travel through the State. 
 
 'Siab.lonega, the thriving capital 
 of Lumpkin County, in the northern part 
 of the State, near the Tennessee border, 
 is beautHuUy situated on a high hill com- 
 manding a magnificent view of the moun- 
 tain scenery of this lovely region. The 
 Indian name of the place was Tau-lau-ne- 
 ca, " Yellow Money." The gold-mines in 
 the vicinity are still worked, and are the 
 156 
 
 richest in Georgia. The United States 
 branch mint cost $100,000. Travellers 
 will find a well-kept hotel. 
 
 Dahlonega will be one of the principal 
 stations on the projected Macon & Knox- 
 ville Railroad, which is to run due north 
 and south between Macon and Knoxville, 
 Tenn. This road was chartered by the 
 Legislature of 1871, who gave it |16,000 
 per mile as State aid. It wiH shorten the 
 distance between Macon and Cincinnati 
 by fully 250 miles, and will traverse a 
 productive portion of Northern Georgia, 
 now totally undeveloped, and, besides ag- 
 ricultural products, containing rich mines 
 of gold, silver, copper, iron, nickel, coal, 
 and marble. Work has been commenced 
 and will be energetically pushed forward. 
 
 MOUNTAIN EEGION AND SOENBBY. 
 
 Throughout all Northern Georgia, the 
 traveller will find a continuation of the 
 charming Blue Ridge landscape, which 
 we have already explored in the contigu- 
 ous regions of Upper South Carolina and 
 North Carolina West. This picturesque 
 district in the "Pine State" extends 
 from Rabun County, in the northeastern 
 comer of the State, to Dade, in the ex- 
 treme northwest, where the summit of the 
 Lookout Mountain overlooks the valley 
 of the Tennessee. Here are the famous 
 gold-lands, and in the midst of them the 
 Dahlonega branch of the United States 
 Mint, already referred to. The most fre- 
 quented, if not the finest scenes in this 
 neighborhood, are in the northeast, as 
 the wonderful Falls of Tallulah and Toc- 
 coa, the valley of Nacoochee and Mount 
 Yonah, in Habersham County, the Cas- 
 cades of Eastatoia, and the great Rabun 
 Gap, in Rabun ; all within a day's ride 
 of the Table Mountain, Caesar's Head, 
 Jocasse, the Whitewater Falls, and other 
 wonders of South Carolina, described in 
 the chapter on that State. Farther west 
 are the Falls of Amicalolah, the Cahutta 
 Mountain, the Dogwood Valley, and 
 Mount Lookout. This was formerly the 
 hunting-ground of the Cherokees ; and, 
 indeed, not many years have passed 
 since the final removal of this tribe to 
 new homes beyond the Mississippi. 
 
 Clarksville, a pleasant village in 
 Habersham County, is a favorite summer 
 
TooooA Falls.] 
 
 GEOEGU. 
 
 [Cataracts of Tallclab. 
 
 residence of the people of the "Low 
 Couutry " of Georgia, and the point of 
 rendezvous for the exploration of the 
 landscape of the mountain-region — the 
 point whence to reach Tallulah, Tocooa, 
 Nacoochee, etc. From Charleston or Co- 
 lumbia, or other places in South Caro- 
 lina, follow the railways to Greenville 
 or to Anderson, S. C, and proceed thence 
 by stage, one or two days' ride, to Clarks- 
 ville; or take the Georgia railways 
 from Augusta to Athens, and thence 
 by stage, one or two days' travel, to 
 Clarksville, passing the Madison Springs, 
 Mount Currahee, and Toccoa. 
 
 Xoccoa, Falls is in the county of 
 Habersham, a few miles from the village 
 of ClarksviUe. A narrow passage leads 
 from the roadside to the foot of the fall. 
 Before the spectator rises a perpendicular 
 rock resembling a rugged stone-wall, and 
 over it 
 
 " The broofc comes babbling down the moun- 
 tain^a side." 
 
 The height of the fall is now 180 feet. 
 
 ** Beaatifol streamlet ! onward glide, 
 In thy destined course to the ocean's tide I 
 So youth impetuous, longs to be — 
 Tossed on the waves of manhood^s sea : 
 But weary soon of cloud and blast, 
 Sighs for the hayen its bark hath passed ; 
 And though thou mshest now witii glee, 
 By hill and plain to seek the sea — 
 No loveher spot again thou^lt find 
 Than that thou leavesthere behind ; 
 Wbere bill and rock * rebound the call ' 
 Of clear Toccoa's waterfell I " 
 
 There are picturesque legends connect- 
 ed with this winsome spot ; one of which 
 narrates the story of an Indian chief and 
 his followers, who, bent upon the exter- 
 mination of the whites, and trusting to 
 the guidance of a woman, were led by 
 her over the precipice, and, of course, 
 perished in their fall. 
 
 Xlie Cataracts of Xallnlah 
 are 12 miles from Clarksville, by a road 
 of very varied beauty. From Toccoa to 
 Tallulah the cut across is five or six 
 miles only. There is a comfortable hotel 
 near the edge of the gorges traversed by 
 this wild mountain-stream, and hard by 
 its army of waterfalls. The Tallulah, or 
 Terrora, as the Indians more appositely 
 called it, is a small stream, which rushes 
 through a chasm in the Blue Eidge, rend- 
 ing it for several miles. The ravine is 
 1,000 feet in depth, and of a similar 
 
 width. Its walls are gigantic cliffs of 
 dark granite. The heavy masses, piled 
 upon each other in the wildest confusion, 
 sometimes shoot out, overhanging the 
 yawning gulf, and threatening to break 
 from their seemingly frail tenure, and 
 hurl themselves headlong into its dark 
 depths. Along the rocky and imeven bed 
 of this deep abyss, the infuriated Terrora 
 frets and foams with ever-varying course. 
 Now, it flows in sullen majesty, through 
 a deep and romantic glen, embowered in 
 the foliage of the trees, which here and 
 there spring from the rooky ledges of the 
 chasm-walls. Anon, it rushes with ac- 
 celerated motion, breaking fretfully over 
 protruding rocks, and uttering harsh 
 murmurs, as it verges a precipice — 
 
 " Where, collected all. 
 In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
 It thundering shoots, and shakes the country 
 
 round: 
 At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad ; 
 Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls, 
 And from the loud -resounding rocks below 
 Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
 A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower." 
 
 The most familiar point of observation 
 is ?'Ae Pulpit, an immense cliff which pro- 
 jects far into the chasm. From this 
 position, the extent and depth of the fear- 
 ful ravine and three of the most roman- 
 tic of the numerous cataracts are observed. 
 At various other localities fine glimpses 
 down into the deep gorge are afforded, 
 and numerous other deep paths lead to 
 the bottom of the chasm. At the several 
 cataracts — the Lodore, the Tempeata, the 
 Oceana, the Serpentine, and others — the 
 picture is ever a new and striking one — 
 which the most striking and beautiful, it 
 would be very difficult to determine. 
 The natural recess called the TrysUng 
 Rock, once the sequestered meeting-place 
 of Indian lovers, is now a halting-spot 
 for merry groups as they descend the 
 chasm, just below the Lodore cascade. 
 From this point, Lodore is upon the left, 
 up the stream ; a huge perpendicular 
 wall of party-colored rock towers up in 
 front and below ; to the right are seen 
 the foaming waters of the Oceana cas- 
 cade, and the dark glen into which they 
 are surging their maddened way. Tem- 
 pesta, the Serpentine, and other falls, lie 
 yet below. The wild grandeur of this 
 mountain-gorge, and the variety, number, 
 U1 
 
Vallet OS NACooonsB.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Falls of Amicalolab. 
 
 and magnificence of its cataracts, give it 
 rank with the most imposing waterfall 
 scenery in the Union. 
 Tke Talley of IVacoocIiee, 
 
 or the Evening Star, is said by tradition 
 to have won its name from the story of 
 the hapless love of a beauteous Indian 
 princess, whose sceptre once ruled its 
 solitudes. With or without such associa- 
 tions, It will be remembered with pleas- 
 ure by all whose fortune it may be to see 
 it. The valley-passages of the South are 
 specialties in the landscape, being often 
 so small and so thoroughly and markedly 
 shut in, that each forms a complete pict- 
 ure in itself. The little vale of Jocasse, 
 in South Carolina, is such a scene, and 
 that of Nacoochee, like Tallulah and 
 Toeooa, is a pleasant day's excursion 
 from Clarksville. 
 
 nSonnt "STonali looks down into 
 the quiet heart of Nacoochee, lying at its 
 base. If the tourist should' stay over- 
 night in the valley, as he will be apt to 
 do, he ought to take a peep at the moun- 
 tain panorama to be seen from the sum- 
 mit of old Tonah. The village of Clayton 
 is an out-of-the-way little place, occupy- 
 ing the centre of a valley completely en- 
 circled by lofty mountain-ranges. 
 
 Vhe falls of the Eastatoia 
 are some three or four miles from the vil- 
 lage of Clayton, in Eabun, the extreme 
 northeastern county of Georgia. They 
 lie off the road to the right, in the pas- 
 sage of the Eabun Gap, one of the moun- 
 tain-ways from Georgia into North Caro- 
 lina. Clayton may be reached easily 
 from Clarksville, the next town south- 
 ward, or in a ride of 12 miles from the 
 Falls of Tallulah. 
 
 The Eastatoia, or the Rabun Falls, as 
 they are otherwise called, would be a spot 
 of crowded resort, were it in the midst 
 of a more thickly-peopled country. The 
 scene is a succession of cascades, noble 
 in volume and character, plunging down 
 the ravined flanks of a rugged moun- 
 tain-height. From the top of one of the 
 highest of the falls, a magnificent view is 
 gained of the valley and waters of the 
 Tennessee, north of the village of Clay- 
 ton, and the hills which encompass it. 
 Before exploring farther the mountain- 
 scenery of Georgia, we feel in duty bound 
 to say a few words about accommoda- 
 158 
 
 tions, conveniences for travel, etc., and 
 to remind the traveller that, when he 
 leaves the frequented routes hereabouts, 
 or anywhere among the Southern hills, 
 he must voyage in his own conveyance, 
 wagon or on horseback (the latter the 
 better), stop for the night at any cabin 
 neai which the twilight may find him, 
 content himself with such fare as he can 
 get (we won't discourage him by present- 
 ing the carte)j and pay for it moderately 
 when he ' resumes his journey in the 
 morning. . 
 
 Union County, lying upon the north- 
 west line of Habersham, is distinguished 
 for natural beauty, and for its objects of 
 antiquarian interest. Among these is the 
 Track Bock, bearing wonderful impres- 
 sions of the feet of curious animals now 
 extinct. 
 
 Pilot mountain, also in Union, 
 is a noble elevation of some 1,200 feet. 
 
 XEia^crassee Falls, on the Hia- 
 wassee River, present a series of beauti- 
 ful cascades, some of them from 60 to 
 100 feet in height. 
 
 Vhe Falls of Anticalolali are 
 in Lumpkin County, southwest of Haber- 
 sham. They lie some 1 7 miles west of the 
 village of Dahlonega, near the State road 
 leading to East Tennessee. The name is 
 a compound of two Cherokee words — 
 " Ami," signifying water, and " Calolah," 
 rolling or tumbling ; strikingly expressive 
 of the cataract, and affording us another 
 instance of the simplicity and significant 
 force of the names conferred by the un- 
 tutored sons of the forest. The visitor 
 should rein up at the nearest farm-house, 
 and make his way thence, either up the 
 Rattlesnake Hollow to the base of the 
 Falls, or to the summit. The range of 
 mountains to the south and west, as it 
 strikes the eye from the top of the falls, 
 is truly sublime ; and the scene is scarce- 
 ly surpassed in. grandeur by any other, 
 even in this country of everlasting hills. 
 The view from the foot embraces, as strict- 
 ly regards the falls themselves, much 
 more than the view from above, and is 
 therefore, perhaps, the better ; both, how- 
 ever, should be obtained in order to form 
 a just conception of the scene ; for here 
 we have a succession of cataracts and 
 cascades, the greatest not exceeding 60 
 feet, but the torrent, in the distance of 
 
HOITNI! OUBBAHEE.J 
 
 GEORGIA. 
 
 [Lookout MonuTAiK. 
 
 400 yards, descending more than as many 
 hundred feet. This creek has its source 
 upon the Blue Eidge, several miles east 
 of the falls ; and it winds its way, fringed 
 with wild flowers of the richest dyes, and 
 kissed in autumn by the purple wild- 
 grapes which cluster over its transparent 
 bosom ; and so tranquil and mirror-like 
 is its surface, that one wUl fancy it to be 
 a thing of life, conscious of its proximate 
 fate, rallying all its energies for the star- 
 tling leap. 
 
 inCoiutt Cnrrabee is on the up- 
 per edge of Franklin County, adjoining 
 Habersham, where we have already vis- 
 ited the Falls of Tallulah and Toccoa, 
 Naooochee, and Yonah, and on the stage 
 route from Athens (see ClarksvUle) to 
 those scenes. It is about 16 miles above 
 the village of Caimesville, and a few 
 miles below the Toccoa cascade. The 
 traveller, fresh from the lowlands, always 
 finds this a scene of much interest. 
 
 Kock moiiutain (Stone foun- 
 tain) is a place of great repute and resort 
 in the western part of the State. It is in 
 De Kalb County, 16 miles east of Atlanta. 
 It may thus be easily reached by the 
 Georgia road from Augusta, and all 
 points thereon, and from places on the 
 many dififerent railways meeting at At- 
 lanta. [See Atlanta.) The mountain 
 stands alone, in a comparatively level re- 
 gion. It covers 1,000 acres of surface. 
 Its circumference is about six miles. Its 
 height above the sea, 2,230 feet, which is 
 further increased by the addition of an 
 observatory. The western view of the 
 mountain, though perhaps the most 
 beautiful, is not calculated to give the 
 beholder a just conception of its magni- 
 tude. To obtain this, he must visit the 
 north and south sides, both at the base 
 and at the summit. Pursuing, for half a 
 mile, a road which winds in an easterly 
 direction along the base of the mountain, 
 the traveller arrives directly opposite its 
 northern front. There the view is ex- 
 ceedingly grand and imposing. This side 
 of the mountain presents an almost unin- 
 terrupted surface of rock, rising about 
 300 feet at its greatest elevation. It ex- 
 tends nearly a mile and a half, gradually 
 declining toward the west, while the east- 
 em termination is abrupt and precipitous. 
 The side is not perpendicular, but ex- 
 
 hibits rather a convex face, deeply marked 
 with furrows. During a shower of rain, 
 a thousand waterfalls pour down these 
 channels ; and if, as sometimes happens, 
 the sun breaks forth in his splendor, the 
 munic torrents flash and sparkle in his 
 beams, like the coruscations of countless 
 diamonds. Near the road is a spring, 
 which, from the beauty of its location, 
 and the delightful coolness of its waters, 
 is an agreeable place of resort. It is in 
 a shady dell, and its water gushes up 
 from a deep bed of white and sparkling 
 sand. A more exquisite beverage a pure 
 taste could not desire. Among the curi- 
 osities of the mountain, there are two 
 which are especially deserving of notice. 
 One is the " Cross Koads." There are 
 two crevices or fissures in the rock, 
 which cross each other nearly at right 
 angles. They commence as mere cracks, 
 increasing to the width and depth of five 
 feet at their intersection. They are of 
 different lengths, the longest extending 
 probably 400 feet. These curious pas- 
 sages are covered at their junction by a 
 flat rock, about 20 feet in diameter. An- 
 other is the ruins of a fortification, which 
 once surrounded the crown of the moun- 
 tain. It is said to have stood entire in 
 1788. When or by whom it was erected 
 is unknown. The Indians say that it 
 was there before the time of their fathers. 
 XiOokout Mountain. — On the 
 summit of this beautiful spur, the north- 
 west comer of Georgia and the northeast 
 extremity of Alabama meet the southern 
 boundary of Tennessee. Almost in the 
 shadow of the Lookout heights lies the 
 busy town of Chattanooga, in Tennessee, 
 on the great railway route from Charles- 
 ton via the Georgia roads to Knoxville, 
 and thence by the Virginia railways to 
 the north , and on the other hand, west- 
 ward, through Nashville, to the Ohio, 
 and the Mississippi. (See Chattanooga, 
 in the chapter on Tennessee.) The 
 country around the " Lookout " is ex- 
 tremely picturesque ; the views all about 
 the mountain itself are admirable, and 
 nothing can exceed in beauty the charm- 
 ing valley of the Tennessee and its 
 waters, as seen from its lofty summit. It 
 is, too, in the immediate vicinage of the 
 Dogwood Valley, and the Nickajack Cave, 
 in Alabama. 
 
 169 
 
Fails OF THE TowALAQA.] SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 • [Spkinos. 
 
 Xhe Falls of tbe Totralaga 
 
 would be beautiful anywhere, and they 
 are therefore particularly bo, occurring as 
 they do in a part of the State not remark- 
 able for its picturesque character. They 
 are easily reached from Forsyth or Grif- 
 fin, on the Macon & Western Railway. 
 {See page 151.) The river above the falls 
 is about 300 feet in width, flowing swiftly 
 over a rocky shoal. At its first descent 
 it is divided by a ledge of rook, and forms 
 two precipitous f^lls for a distance of 50 
 feet. The falls are much broken by the 
 uneven surface over which the water 
 flows, and, on reaching their rocky basin, 
 are shivered into foam and spray. From 
 the foot of this fall the stream foams 
 rapidly down its declivitous channel for 
 200 feet, and again bounds over a minor 
 precipice in several distinct cascades, 
 which commingle their waters at its base 
 in a cloud of foam. 
 
 SPEHTGS. 
 
 Ihe Indian Springs are in Butts County, 
 near the falls of the Towalaga. (See Ma- 
 con & Western Railway-^-RouTE II.) 
 
 The Madison Springs are on the stage 
 route from Athens to the waterfall region 
 of Habersham County, seven miles from 
 Danielsville, the capital of Madison 
 County. (See Athens Branch, Georgia 
 Railway — ^RouiE I.) 
 
 The Warm Springs, in Merriweather 
 County, are 36 miles northeast by stage 
 from Columbus. A nearer railway point 
 is Lagrange, on the Atlanta & West 
 Point Railway. These springs discharge 
 
 160 
 
 1,400 gallons of water per minute, of 90 
 degrees Fahrenheit. 
 
 The Sulphur Springs are six miles north 
 of Gainesville, Hall County, in the upper 
 part of the State. (See Athens Branch, 
 Georgia Railway — Route I.) 
 
 The Chalybeate Springs, in Talbot 
 County, are about seven miles south of 
 the Warm Springs, and both are reached 
 by stage from Geneva, on the Muscogee 
 Railroad. (See Route III.) 
 
 The Romand Springs are about six 
 miles from Cartersville, in CasS County. 
 Cartersville is a station on the Western 
 & Atlantic Railway, 47 miles north of 
 Atlanta, and 89 miles south of Chatta-' 
 nooga. 
 
 The Red Sulphur Springs, or " the Vale 
 of Springs," are at the base of Taylor's 
 Ridge, in Walker County, the northwest 
 comer of the State. In the vicinity are 
 Lookout Mountain, and other beautiful 
 scenes. No less than twenty springs are 
 found here in the space of half a mile — 
 chalybeate, sulphur, red, white, and 
 black, and magnesia. (See Chattamooga, 
 in chapter on Alabama.) 
 
 The Thundering Springs are in Upson 
 County. The nearest railway-station is 
 Forsyth. (See Macon and Western Rail- 
 way — ^RouTE III.) 
 
 The Powder Springs — sulphur and 
 magnesia — are in Cobb County, 20 miles 
 above Atlanta. (See Western & Atlanta 
 Railway — ^Route II.) 
 
 Nickajack Cave is in the immediate 
 vicinity of Chattanooga. (See chapter oa 
 Alabama.) 
 
HORIDA.] 
 
 FLORIDA. 
 
 [Flobioa. 
 
 FLOEIDA. 
 
 Florida is much visited from the 
 North during the winter months by those 
 who love mild and balmy atmospheres, 
 and especially by invalids in quest of 
 health-restoring climates. The cities of 
 St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Pilatka, and 
 neighboring places, which are those most 
 particularly sought, are near the Atlantic 
 coast, in the extreme northeastern part 
 of the State. Though comparatively 
 recently (1820) adnutted into the Con- 
 federacy of States, Florida is more fertile 
 in materials of history than many of her 
 elder sister States. Hither came Ponce 
 de Leon (1512), hoping to find the fabled 
 fountain of perpetual youth and strength ; 
 and, shortly after, Narvaez, who invaded 
 the country from Cuba with 400 men, 
 and, penetrating the interior, was never 
 again heard of. De Soto followed in 
 1539, with a not much happier reward, 
 for, liiough he subdued the savages and 
 took possession of their land, it was only 
 to leave it again and to pass on. Battle 
 and strife have, with intervals of quiet, 
 so characterized Florida, almost to the 
 present day, that its name would seem 
 but irony did it really refer, as is gener- 
 ally supposed, to the floral vegetation of 
 the soil, instead of to the simple happen- 
 ing of the discovery of the country on 
 Pascua Florida, or Palm Sunday. The 
 earliest settlements in Florida were made 
 by the French, but they were driven out 
 by the Spaniards, who established them- 
 selves securely at St. Augustine in 1S65, 
 many years before any other settlement 
 was made on the western shores of the 
 Atlantic. Before the Revolution; Florida 
 warred with the English colonies of Caro- 
 lina and Georgia, and passed into British 
 possession in 1763. ' It was reconquered 
 by Spain in 1*781, and from that period 
 until within very late years it has been 
 the field of Indian occupation and war- 
 
 fare. The reconquest by Spain in 1781 
 was confirmed in 1783, and ia 1821 that 
 power ceded the country to the United 
 States. Its territorial organization was 
 made in 1822, and its admission into the 
 Union as a State occurred March 3, 1845. 
 A sanguinary war was waged from 1834 
 to 1842, between the troops of the United 
 States and the Indian occupants, the 
 Seminoles, led by their famous chief Os- 
 ceola. Since that period the savages 
 have been removed to other territory, 
 excepting some few who are still in pos- 
 session of the impenetrable swamps and 
 jungles of the lower portions of the State. 
 The ordinance of secession was passed at 
 Tallahassee, January 7, 1861, and on the 
 25th of October, 1865, a convention met 
 which repealed this ordinance, repudiated 
 the Confederate debt, and formed a new 
 constitution. The State was readmitted 
 in June, 1868. 
 
 Florida is the great peninsula form- 
 ing the extreme southeastern part of the 
 United States. Its entire area eastward 
 lies upon the Atlantic, and the Gulf of 
 Mexico washes almost the whole of the 
 western side. Georgia and Alabama are 
 upon the north. The country is for the 
 most part level, being nowhere more than 
 250 or 300 feet above the sea. The 
 southern part of the peninsula is covered 
 with a large sheet of water called the 
 Everglades — an immense area, filled with 
 islands, which it is supposed may be re- 
 claimed by drainage. The central por- 
 tion of the State is somewhat elevated, 
 the highest point being about 171 feet 
 above the ocean, and gradually declining 
 toward the coast on either side. The 
 country between the Suwanee and the 
 Chattahoochee is elevated and hilly, and 
 the western region is level. The lands 
 of Florida are almost mi generis, very 
 curiously distributed, and may bo desig- 
 161 
 
Climate.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Lakes akd Birsiia. 
 
 nated as high hummock, low hummock, 
 swamps, savannas, and the different 
 qualities of fine land. High hummock is 
 usually timbered with liTe and other 
 oaks, with magnolia, laurel, etc., and is 
 considered the best description of land 
 for general purposes. Low hummock, 
 timbered with live and water oak, is sub- 
 ject to overflows, but when drained is 
 preferred for sugar. Savannas, on the 
 margins of streams and in detached bod- 
 ies, are usually very rich and alluvious, 
 yielding in dry seasons, but needing, at 
 other times, ditching and diking. Ikbrsh 
 savannas, on the borders of tide-streams, 
 are very valuable when reclaimed, for 
 rice or sugar-cane. The swampy, island- 
 filled lake, called the Eeerglades, is 
 covered with a dense jungle of vines and 
 evergreens, pines, and palmettoes. It 
 lies south of Okechobee, and is 160 miles 
 long and 60 broad. Its depth varies 
 from one to six feet. A rank, tall grass 
 springs from the vegetable deposits at 
 the bottom, and, rising above the surface 
 of the water, gives the lake the deceitful 
 air of a beautiful verdant lawn. The 
 soil is well adapted, it is thought, to the 
 production of the plantain and the ba- 
 nana. In the interior of Florida there is 
 H, chain of lakes, of which the extreme 
 southern link is JLalce Olcechobee, nearly 
 20 miles in length. Many of these waters 
 are extremely picturesque in their own 
 unique beauty of wild and rank tropical 
 vegetation. 
 
 The climate of Florida is one of the 
 most equable in the world. It is a com- 
 mon error, current among even the best 
 informed, that Florida is a cesspool of 
 malarial fever and its kindred diseases. 
 General Lawson, Surgeon-General of the 
 Army, in an official report, says : " The 
 climate of Florida is remarkably agree- 
 able, being subject to fewer atmospheric 
 variations and its thermometer ranges 
 less than any other part of the United 
 States, except a portion of the coast of 
 California. For example, the winter at 
 Fort SneUing, Minn., is 48 degrees colder 
 than at Fort Brooke, Fla. ; but the sum- 
 mer at Fort Brooke is only 8 degrees 
 warmer. The mean annual temperature 
 at Augusta, Ga., is nearly 8 degrees, and 
 that at Fort Gibson, Ark., upward of 10 
 degrees lower than at Tampa; vet in 
 162 
 
 both these places the mean summer tem- 
 perature is higher than at Fort Brooke, 
 Tampa Bay, Fla. In the summer season 
 the mercury rises higher in every part 
 of the United States and even in Canada, 
 than it does along the coast of Florida." 
 The climate of Florida being thus equa- 
 ble and uniform, malarial diseases can 
 only be of a mild type, and in this con- 
 nection Surgeon-General Lawson says: 
 "The statistics in this bureau demon- 
 strate the fact that the diseases which 
 result from malaria are of a much milder 
 type in the peninsula of Florida than in 
 any other State in the Union. These 
 records show that the ratio of deaths to 
 the number of cases of remittent fever has 
 been much less than among the troops 
 serving in any other portion of the United 
 States. In the Middle Division of the 
 United States the proportion is one death 
 to thirty-six cases of remittent fever ; in 
 the Northern Division, one to fifty-two ; 
 in the Southern Division one to fifty-four ; 
 in Texas, one to seventy-eight ; in Cali- 
 fornia, one to one hundred and forty- 
 eight ; in Florida it is but one to two hun- 
 dred and eighty-aeven." These examples 
 are taken from cases of persons who 
 were unacclimated, and as a necessary 
 sequence those who are native or accli- 
 mated Buffer less. It is true that the re- 
 port from which I quote was made years 
 ago ; yet it does not in the least change 
 the proportion. Again, Surgeon-General 
 Lawson says : " The average annual mor- 
 tality of the whole peninsula, from re- 
 turns in this office, is found to be 2.06 
 per cent., while in the other portions of 
 the United States (previous to the war 
 with Mexico) it is 3.05 per cent." 
 
 Lakes and Mivers. — The rivers of the 
 State are numerous, and, like the lakes, 
 present everywhere to the eye of the 
 stranger very novel attractions, in the 
 abundance and variety of the trees and 
 shrubs and vines which line all their 
 shores and bayous. The largest of the 
 many rivers is the Appalachicola, which 
 crosses the western arm of the State 
 to the Gulf of Mexico. The jffl. iSfar/s 
 is the boundary on the extreme northern 
 comer, Georgia being upon the opposite 
 bank. Its waters flow into the Atlantic, 
 as do those of the St. John's River, in the 
 same section of the State. All the main 
 
John's Riyeb.] 
 
 FLOEIDA. 
 
 [Bail Boutes. 
 
 points of interest in Florida are easily 
 reached from Savannah by steam-packets 
 down the coast. A steamer makes the 
 round trip from Charleston to Jackson- 
 ville weekly, stopping at Savannah and 
 Fernandina; other boats run between 
 Savannah and Pilatka, calling at Bruns- 
 wick, St. Hary's, Fernandina, Jackson- 
 ville, and Picolata. 
 
 Xlae St. JoUn's RiTer is the 
 principal point of attraction, and that to 
 which we shall presently direct the par- 
 ticular attention of the tourist. It comes, 
 from a marshy tract in the central part 
 of the peninsula, flowing first northwest 
 to the mouth of the Ochlawaha, and 
 thence about northward to Jacksonville, 
 and finally eastward to the Atlantic. The 
 country which it traverses is covered 
 chiefly with dank cypress-swamps and 
 desolate pine-barrens ; the banks, which 
 are from ten to twenty feet high, are 
 overgrown with the trees for which the 
 State is so famous, among which are the 
 pine, magnolia, live-oak, and palmetto. 
 
 Population. — According to the census 
 of 1870, the population of Florida ag- 
 gregates 187,'748, of which 96,057 are 
 whites and 91,689 blacks. The popula- 
 tion of the State in 1860 was 140,123, so 
 that, in spite of the ravages caused by 
 the civil war, the increase in ten years 
 has been 47,625, or 34 per cent. 
 
 The Florida Indians. — There are only 
 about iSOO Seminoles remaining on the 
 Everglades of Florida. They are pos- 
 sessed of a correct though limited idea 
 of the Creator, a state of future rewards 
 and punishments, and the institution of 
 the Sabbath, it being their custom to ob- 
 serve one day in seven as a day of rest. 
 In personal appearance they are repre- 
 sented as coming up to the old type of 
 the red-man — ^tall, straight, well propor- 
 tioned — and are most favorably spoken 
 of as regards their morality and intelli- 
 gence. A Seminole full dress consists 
 of a shirt, necktie, and turban. The 
 women have calico skirts and a close 
 sack on the upper part of the person, not 
 to speak of rolls of variegated glass 
 heads, weighing from three to five 
 pounds each, and as many as three rows 
 of silver plates arranged as a necklace. 
 Lately the great bulk of the tribe have 
 moved away from their old haunts about 
 
 Okeechobee to a more salubrious hunt- 
 ing-ground, and, from this circumstance, 
 there is some reason to suppose the low- 
 er portion of the Floridian peninsula is 
 now gradually rising. Not long ago 
 there was a move northward by these 
 Indians, and now this second migration 
 occurs to show some such process in 
 operation. 
 
 HOW TO BEACH TLOEIDA. 
 
 Rail Routes. — Travellers to Florida 
 going from the North, generally make 
 Savannah (see page 142) the first objective 
 point. From Eastern points it can be 
 reached via connecting lines to Baltimore 
 (Theough-Routes) ; from New Tork by 
 Jfew York tb JPhiladelpkia Railway, run- 
 ning through-trains to Baltimore, Wash- 
 ington, and Richmond. From Baltimore, 
 via Bay Line of Steamers to PortsmoiUh, 
 Va., connecting with " Atlantic Coast 
 Line." Or, from Washington via Acquia 
 Creek, to Richmond; at Richmond two 
 routes compete for the travel — the " Up- 
 per Route," via Danville, Charlotte and 
 Augusta, and the Atlantic Coast Line, via 
 Petersburg, Wilmington, and Charleston. 
 The Cfreat Southern Mail Boiete, via 
 Washington, Lynchburg, KnoxvUle, 
 Chattanooga, Atlanta, Macon, and Jesup 
 Junction. From Cleveland, Columbus, 
 Cincinnati, Toledo, Detroit, places on 
 Lakes Erie and Michigan, and points 
 north and east of Louisville, the Short 
 Line is via Louisville & Nashville Rail- 
 way. From St. Louis, and pomts north 
 and west, the most direct route is via the 
 St. Louis & Southeastern Railway. 
 
 From Charleston and Savannah a very 
 quick and agreeable route is via the 
 Savannah & Charleston, and Atlantic <fc 
 Gulf Railways (Route I.). This route 
 will be especially satisfactory to those 
 whose time is limited or who object to a 
 sea-voyage along the coast. Palace 
 sleeping - cars run through, without 
 change, from Savannah to Jacksonville, 
 where boats connect with the St. John's 
 River and the St. Augustine Railway. 
 The route of the Atlantic & Gulf Rail- 
 way {see page 163) is through the south- 
 eastern section of Georgia. It connects 
 with the Florida net-work of railways at 
 Live-Oak Station, in Florida, and this 
 163 
 
Water EotriEs.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUB. 
 
 [Lite Oak. 
 
 brings it into close railway and steamboat 
 connection with all principal' points in 
 the State. 
 
 Water Routes. — ^From New York, 
 Boston, Philadelphia, and Baltimore : By 
 steamship to Savannah and rail to Flori- 
 da. The sea routes from New York are 
 by the New York and Savannah steam- 
 ships, consisting of three lines of steam- 
 ers : Murray, Ferris & Co.'s line, from 
 Pier 16, East Eiver, on alternate Tues- 
 days ; W. E. Garrison's line, from Pier 
 8, North Eiver ; and E. Lowden's, from 
 Pier 13, North Eiver. 
 
 The New York & Charleston lAne of 
 steamships sell through-tickets, via Sa- 
 vannah & Charleston Railway, to all 
 points in Florida. Sailing-days: Tues- 
 days, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 
 Pier 29, North Eiver. 
 
 From Boston : the Boston <& Savannah 
 Steamship Company's steamers leave on 
 the 10th, 20th, and 30th of each month ; 
 returning, leave Savannah on the same 
 dates. 
 
 From Philadelphia : the Philadelphia & 
 Southern Mail Steamship Company have 
 a weekly line to Savannah, leaving every 
 Saturday, from Queen Street Wharf. 
 
 From Baltimore : the BaUimm-e & Sa- 
 vatmah Steamship Company's steamers 
 leave for Savannah on the 10th, 20th, and 
 30th of each month. 
 
 From Charleston and Savannah there 
 is a weekly line of boats to Jacksonville. 
 At Jacksonville there is daily steamboat 
 connection with all the towns and land- 
 ings on the St. John's Eiver. 
 
 From New Orleans the boats of the 
 New Orleans, Florida & Savana Steam- 
 ship Company touch at Cedar Keys, en 
 route to Key West and Havana. North- 
 ern visitors wishing to return home either 
 by the way of Havana or the Mississippi 
 Eiver can take this route, embarking at 
 Cedar Keys. 
 
 BOUTE I. 
 
 SAVANITAB, GA., TO JACKSONVILLE, 
 
 FLA. 
 
 Via Atlantic S Gulf BaA^ay, Florida 
 
 Branch, and JacksonmZU, F&nsacola & Mo- 
 
 Atlantio & Gulf Railway. — Savan- 
 nah to Miller's, 10 miles; Way's, 16; 
 Fleming, 24 ; Mcintosh, 32-; Walthour- 
 164 
 
 ville, 39 ; Johnson, 46 ; Doctortown, 63 ; 
 Jesup (connects with Macon & Bruns- 
 wick Eailway for Macon, Atlanta, and 
 principal cities of the South and West), 
 67 ; Lawton, 131. 
 
 Florida Branch. — Forrest, 143 miles ; 
 Statenville, 151; Jasper, 163; Suwanee, 
 171; Live Oak (connects with Jack- 
 sonville, Pensacola & Mobile Eailway for 
 Madison, Monticello, Tallahassee, Quincy, 
 St. Mark's, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, 
 and points on the St. John's Eiver), 179. 
 
 Jacksonville, Pensacola & Mobile 
 Eailway. — ^Hou^on, 185 miles; Well- 
 bom, 191 ; Lake City, 202 ; Olustee, 
 214; Sanderson, 224; Darby's Still, 
 233; Baldwin (connects with Florida 
 Eailway for Fernandina, Gainesville, and 
 Cedar Keys), 243; Whitehouse, 252; 
 JacksonviUe (connects with steamboats 
 on the St. John's, for Picolata, St. Augus- 
 tine, Pilatka, Enterprise, etc.), 263. 
 
 The tourist by this route travels from 
 Savannah to Jacksonville without change 
 of cars. The road, as far as Lawton, is 
 fully described in Eoute VII. of Geor- 
 gia (see page 153). 
 
 I^aTT-ton, C}a. (131 miles), is at 
 the junction of the main trunk of the 
 Atlantic & Gulf Eailway and the Florida 
 Branch. 
 
 Passing the small stations of Forrest 
 (143 miles) and StaienviUe (151 miles), we 
 reach the little village of 
 
 Jasper, Fla. (163 miles), capital 
 of the county of the same name, fiiva- 
 lids start from here for the Upper White 
 Sulphur Springs, 18 miles distant. Jas- 
 per is healthily situated. Hotel : Stew- 
 art Souse and Hateby House. Terms : 
 $16 to $20 per month, $2 per day. 
 
 Su^ranee (171 miles) is a wood- 
 station, about a mile distant from a re- 
 markable sulphur spring, upon the beau- 
 tiful banks of the Suwanee Eiver. The 
 spring is about 16 feet deep and about 
 the same diameter. Its clear waters 
 pouring into the river contrast strongly 
 with the dark current flowing from the 
 Okafonokee Swamp. The spring-waters 
 are said to be a valuable cure in cases of 
 rheumatism and dyspepsia, as also those 
 of the Upper White Sulphur, some miles 
 farther up the river. 
 
 I^i-re Oak (179 miles) is a tele- 
 graph-station, of 800 inhabitants, at 
 
Wellborn.] 
 
 FLORIDA. 
 
 [SlAHOKS. 
 
 the junction of the Jacksonville, Pema- 
 cola & Mobile Railway, and the capital of 
 Suwanee County. The site was once an 
 Indian eamping-ground. Hotel : Con- 
 ner's ; $3 per day. 
 
 "Welll>orn(191 miles) is pleasantly 
 situated, and is a favorite resort for in- 
 vaUds. In the neighborhood are Lake 
 Wellborn and other lakes well stocked 
 with fish. Persons going to White Sul- 
 phur Springs (8 miles distant) stop at the 
 village. There are two churches, one 
 nsed by the Baptists, and the other by 
 the Presbyterians and Methodists. Board 
 may be had at the houses of Kigsbce, 
 Williams, and others. Terms: $20 to 
 $30 per month, $7 to $8 per week, $1.50 
 per day. 
 
 _ liake City (202 miles) is a pleasant 
 village of about 2,000 population, is the 
 seat of justice of Columbia County, and is 
 a V. S. signal-service station. It con- 
 tains cotton, saw, and grist mills, and has 
 seven churches, belonging to the Roman 
 Catholic, Episcopalian, Methodist, Pres- 
 byterian, and Baptist denominations. 
 Within the city limits are Lakes Isabella, 
 De Soto, and Hamburg. Indian Lake is 
 about a quarter of a mile from the city. 
 
 Olnstee (214 miles) is noted as the 
 site of a desperate battle between the 
 Federal and Confederate forces, fought 
 in February, 1864. Major-General Sey- 
 mour, marching westward from Jackson- 
 ville, encountered the Confederate troops 
 under Brigadier-General Finegan. A 
 bloody engagement, which lasted all day, 
 resulted in the defeat of the Federals, 
 who retired from the field, losing 1,200 
 men. Finegan's loss was about 300. 
 
 Passing Sanderson (224 miles), and 
 Darby's SiiU (233 miles), we reach Bald- 
 win (243 miles), which is at the junction 
 with the Florida Railway, connecting with 
 Femandina and the Atlantic Ocean on 
 the north, and Cedar Keys and the Gulf 
 of Mexico on the south. The telegraph- 
 line to Cuba branches off at this station. 
 Hotels : Baldwin House ^nd Florida 
 Souse. Terms : |4 per day. 
 
 Jacksonville (263 miles), the 
 principal commercial city in Florida, and 
 the largest on the Atlantic coast of the 
 (Jnited States south of Savannah, is sit- 
 uated on the western bank of the St. 
 John's River 25 miles from its mouth. 
 
 It is the seat of the U. S. District Court, 
 of the Federal Customs and Internal Rev- 
 enue, and is the capital of Duval County. 
 It has a population of nearly 10,000 inhab- 
 itants. The city, which is named after 
 General Andrew Jackson, is regularly laid 
 out. The principal business thorough- 
 fare is Bay Street. A beautiful view of 
 the river is had from " La Villa," the 
 picturesque bluff on the northwestern 
 side of the city. There is telegraphic com- 
 munication from Jacksonville with all 
 parts of the Union. The lumber-trade of 
 the city is very large. The shipments 
 in isn, amounted to 50,000,000 feet. 
 The suburban villages of Riverside, 
 Reed's Landing, Alexandria, and South 
 Shore, are connected with Jacksonville by 
 the daily ferry-boat " Fanny Fern." The 
 Baptists and Methodists each have three 
 churches in the city, the Episcopalians 
 two, the Presbyterians two, and the Ro- 
 man Catholics and Second Adventists 
 each one. Hotels : St. James, Metropoli- 
 tan, Price House, St. John's, Rochester, 
 Magnolia, and others. There are also 
 numerous first-class boarding-houses. 
 Hotel accommodation ranges from $10 
 to $25 per week. Good furnished 
 rooms, including lights, fuel, and attend- 
 ance may be had in private houses for 
 from $4 to $6. per week; and board 
 without rooms is $11 per week at the 
 best hotels, and less at the boarding- 
 houses. TJnfumished cottages can be 
 hired for from $20 to $30 per month. 
 
 ROUTE II. 
 
 QUIMCTTO TALLAHASSEE, ST. MAMK'S 
 AND JAOKSOITVILLE. 
 
 Via JacTcsomeilU, Pensaeola t& MoMle Bail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations: — Quincy (connects with 
 stages, 20 miles, to Chattahoochee, and 
 thence by steamboats to Appalaohicola, 
 Eufaula, Columbus, etc. Also with stages 
 for Marianna and West Florida generally, 
 and for Bainbridge and Albany, Ga.); 
 Midway, 12 miles ; Tallahassee, 24 ; 
 Chaires, 85 ; Lloyd's, 42 ; St. Mark's (con- 
 nects with Gulf steamers for Key West, 
 Cedar Keys, Appalaohicola, Pensacola, 
 New Orleans, etc.), 45 ; Junction, 51 ; 
 Aucilla, 68 ; Goodman's, 65 ; Madison, 79 ; 
 Ellaville, 94; Live Oak (connects with 
 165 
 
QriNCY.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Febnandina. 
 
 Atlanta & Gulf Railway for Sav^annali), 
 101 ; Houston, 113 ; Wellborn, 119; Lake 
 City, 130; Olustee, 142'; Sanderson, 152; 
 Darby's Still, 161 ; Baldwin (connects 
 with Florida Railway for Fernandina 
 and Cedar Keys), 170 ;"AVTiitehouse, 178 ; 
 Jacksonville (connects with steamboats 
 on the St. John's for Picolata, St. Au- 
 gustine, Pilatka, Enterprise, etc.), 189. 
 
 Qulncy, the capital of Gadsden 
 County, is a prosperous village of about 
 800 inhabitants. Before the war fine 
 Cuba tobacco was cultivated in the 
 county, with much success. Grapes, pro- 
 ducing excellent wine, are cultivated in 
 the neighborhood of Mount Pleasant, 12 
 miles from the village. Quincy has daily 
 stage communication with Bainbridge, 
 Ga. (22 miles). 
 
 Xallahassee (24 miles), the capi- 
 talof Florida, and of Leon County, is a 
 charming town of about 2,500 inhabi- 
 tants. Its society is distinguished for its 
 intelligence and refinement. The climate 
 is delightful, the heat of summer being 
 tempered by flie breezes from the GulJ 
 In the neighborhood of the town are 
 Zahes Bradford, Jackson, and Lafayette, 
 the second named after General Jacllson, 
 and the last after the French marquis. 
 It was at Tallahassee that the ordinance 
 of secession was passed, January?, 1861. 
 Chief among the attractions of the place 
 are the many beautiful springs found in 
 the vicinity. Ten miles from Tallahassee 
 is a noted fountain, called Wachulla. It 
 is an immense limestone basin, as yet 
 unfathomed in the centre, with waters as 
 transparant as crystal. Hotel : City 
 Hotel ; $4 per dav. 
 
 St. Mart's (21 miles from Talla- 
 hassee, and 45 from Quincy) connects 
 with tlie former by a branch railroad. It 
 is a port on the Gulf of Mexico, and con- 
 nects by steamer with New Orleans, Pen- 
 Bacola, Appalachicola, Cedar Keys, Key 
 West, and Havana. 
 
 monticello. Monticello Junction 
 (67 miles from Quincy) is the point at 
 which connection is made with Monticel- 
 lo, a town of about 2,000 inhabitants, 
 and the terminus of a branch road, four 
 and a quarter miles in length. In the vi- 
 cinity is Lake Miccosukie, whose banks are 
 noted as the camping-ground of De Soto, 
 and as the field of a bloody battle be- 
 166 
 
 tween General , Jackson and the Miooosu- 
 kie Indians. 
 
 Leaving behind us Aucilla (58 miles) 
 and Qoomnan (66 miles), shipping-points 
 for a fine farming-country, we reach 
 
 miadisoii. (79 miles), the capital of 
 the county of that name. In the county 
 are the beautiful Lakes Hachel, Mary 
 Frances, and Ckeny, which abound in 
 fish. 
 
 EllaiVillc (94 miles), on the Suwa- 
 nee River, has a large lumber-trade. The 
 rest of the route has been described in 
 Route I. 
 
 BOUTE III. 
 
 FMBNANDIJSTA TO CEDAR KEYS. 
 Via Florida BaOmay. 
 
 Stations : — Fernandina (connects with 
 Savannah, Charleston, and New York 
 steamers) ; Baldwin (connects with Jack- 
 sonville, Pensacola & Mobile Raiilway), 47 
 miles ; Waldo, 84 ; Gainesville, 98 ;' Cedar 
 Keys (connects with steamers for Ha- 
 vana, Mobile, New Orleans, etc.), 154. 
 
 The Florida Railway runs directly 
 across the State, connecting the waters 
 of the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic Ocean, 
 and passing through some of the most 
 picturesque scenery in Florida. 
 
 I^eraandina, at the mouth of 
 Amelia River, is an interesting old sea- 
 port town of about 2,000 inhabitants, 
 with a splendid land-looked harbor of 
 such capacity that, during the war of 
 1812, when the town was Spanish and 
 neutral, more than 300 square-rigged ves- 
 sels rode at anchor in it at one time. 
 Tessels, drawing 19 or 20 feet of water, 
 can cross the bar at high tide, and the 
 largest ships can unload at the wharves. 
 Fernandina is one of the most /healthful 
 places in the South ; in winter thsrclimate 
 is mild, and in summer 'the town is fanned 
 by the cool sea-breezes. It does a good 
 trade in lumber, has a large cotton-gin- 
 ning establishment and a cotton-seed oil 
 manufactory, and is in the neighborhood 
 of numerous sugar, cotton, and orange- 
 plantations. There are seven churches 
 in the town, which is also the seat 
 of the Episcopal- bishopric of Florida. 
 There is a flourishing academy for young 
 ladies under the charge of the bishop. 
 
Wawo] 
 
 FLOEIDA. 
 
 [Cedas Ksts. 
 
 Femandina has direct communication 
 with all the principal railroad points in 
 the State and sea-ports to the northward. 
 A railroad is projected, from this place 
 to Jacksonville, which will reduce the 
 travelling distance between the latter 
 and Savannah. Fernandina has other 
 attractions for visitors besides its de- 
 lightful climate. There is, for instance, 
 the splendid drive of 18 miles along the 
 sea-beach over a hard and remarkably 
 level road, or the excursion to Dun- 
 geness, the home of the Revolutionary 
 hero, General Nathaniel Greene. This 
 estate of about 10,000 acres of choice 
 land was the gift of the people of 
 Georgia to the general, in recognition 
 of his services as commander of the 
 Southern provincial army. The grounds 
 are beautifully laid out, and are embel- 
 lished with flower-gardens, and handsome 
 groves and avenues of olive-trees, and 
 live-oaks draped with long festoons of 
 the graceful Spanish moss. On the 
 beach, about half a mile from the Dun- 
 geness mansion, is the grave of the Rev- 
 olutionary hero. General Henry Lee, 
 marked by a head-stone, erected by his 
 son. General Robert E. Lee. 
 
 Hotels : Norward Souse, Virginia 
 Souse, and Florida Souse. Terras : $2 
 to $3.50 per day. 
 
 ISald-win (47 miles). (See Route I.) 
 
 "WsilAo (84 miles) is at the junction 
 of the railroad constructing to Tampa 
 Bay. There are two cotton-ginning mills 
 in the village. About two miles distant 
 is Santa Fi Lake, which is about nine 
 miles long and four wide, and affords 
 good facilities for boating and fishing. 
 The creeks in the neighborhood are 
 filled with trout and perch. About six 
 miles from the village there is a remark- 
 able nj^ural sink. The Sa'nia Fe River 
 disappears underground several miles 
 from Waldo. The woods in the vicinity 
 of the village abound in deer, ducks, 
 quails, etc. The climate is dry, and is 
 said to be favorable to invalids suffering 
 from diseases of the lungs. There is no 
 hotel here, but board may be had in pri- 
 vate families for from $15 to $20 per 
 month. 
 
 Craines-rille (98 miles), the capital 
 of -AJachua County (the largest in the 
 State), is the principal town on the 
 
 Florida EaUway. It has a population 
 of 1,500. The vicinity abounds in nat- 
 ural curiosities, which may be visited on 
 horseback and by other modes of convey- 
 ance, to be obtained at the livery-stables 
 in town. The Alachua Sink teems with 
 fish of various kinds, and alligators. 
 The surrounding scenery is very beauti- 
 ful ; the woods are alive with game, and 
 oranges, lemons, limes, grapes^and peach- 
 es, grow in abundance. A triweekly mail- 
 line, carrying passengers, runs between 
 Gainesville and Tampa on the Gulf of 
 Mexico. Hotels : Oak Sail, Fkchange 
 Sotel, BevUle Souse. Terms : $2 to $3 
 per day, or $25 to $30 per month. 
 
 Cedar Keys (154 mUes), the Gulf 
 of Mexico terminus of the road, is a vil- 
 lage of some 600 population, pleasantly 
 situated on a large bay, which affords ex- 
 cellent facilities for bathing, boating, and 
 fishing. Eighteen miles west of Cedar 
 Keys, the Suwanee River, navigable to 
 EUaville, enters the Gulf, and Withla- 
 coochee River, 18 miles south. The steam- 
 ers of the New Orleans, Florida & Ha- 
 vana Steamship Company's line leave 
 every Saturday morning for Havana, 
 New Orleans, and Key West. Hotel: 
 Exchange ; $3 per day. 
 
 nouTE ir. 
 
 VP THE ST. JOHN'S RI7EB. 
 
 This beautiful river has its sources in 
 a marsh tract, in the central part of the 
 peninsula. It pursues a northwesterly 
 course to the mouth of the Ocklawaha, 
 after which it flows nearly north to Jack- 
 sonville. Turning thence toward the 
 east, it flows into the Atlantic. Its 
 whole course, which lies through an ex- 
 tremely level region, is about 400 miles. 
 For 150 miles from its mouth its average 
 width is about one mile and a half, in 
 some places it is six miles wide, and below 
 Lake George it does not contract at any 
 point to less than one mile. It is said 
 that, with its navigable branches, the St. 
 John's affords 1,000 miles of water trans- 
 portation. Its banks are lined with 
 luxuriant tropical vegetation, handsome 
 shade-trees and orange-groves, and here 
 and there are picturesque villages. The 
 river scenery is a great attraction to 
 167 
 
Mbiberbt Grote.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR 
 
 [PiLATKA. 
 
 visitors to Florida, the balmy climate 
 of the country along the banks, and 
 the change of scene, being highly bene- 
 ficial to invalids. Large steamers as- 
 cend the river as far as Pilatka, from 
 which smaller steamers continue to Lake 
 Monroe, on the Ooklawaha Kiver to Sil- 
 ver Springs, and the interior lakes. The 
 regular packets from Jacksonville are 
 the Florence, which runs daily to Pilat- 
 ka, 76 miles and back; and the semi- 
 weekly steamers Darlington and Hattie 
 to Enterprise, a distance of 205 miles. 
 The local fares on Brock's line of steam- 
 boats, from Jacksonville to Green Cove 
 Springs and intermediate landings, are 
 |1 ; from Jacksonville to landings be- 
 tween Green Cove Springs and Pilatka, 
 |2. Heals cost $1 each extra. The fare 
 from Jacksonville to Mellonville and 
 Enterprise, state-rooms and meals in- 
 cluded, is $9 ; and from Pilatka to Mel- 
 lonville, state-rooms and meals included, 
 $6. Including stoppages, the through- 
 trip from Jacksonville to Enterprise takes 
 36 hours. 
 
 JacksouTiIIc is described in 
 EouTE I. {See page 166.) 
 
 Multoerry Grove (12 miles), 
 the first landing-place on the west bank, 
 is a beautiful grove, highly attractive to 
 excursionists. 
 
 mandarin (15 miles), on the east 
 bank, is one of the oldest settlements on 
 the St. John's. It is a village of about 
 200 inhabitants, and is the winter home 
 of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, whose 
 house is situated near the river, a few 
 rods to the left of the shore end of the 
 pier. She owns about 40 acres of land, 
 three or four of which are planted with 
 orange-trees. 
 
 E(il>eriiia. (23 miles), on the west 
 bank, is a resort for invalids. Mrs. 
 Fleming is said to keep a good boarding- 
 house. 
 
 magnolia (21 miles), on the west 
 bank, is a pleasant village, with a good 
 hotel. In the vicinity is Magnolia Point, 
 one of the highest points of land extend- 
 ing into the river between Jacksonville 
 and Pilatka. A little to the north of the 
 point, Black Creek, a navigable stream, 
 empties into the St. John's. Small 
 steamers make weekly trips up the creek 
 as far as Middlebury. The banks swarm 
 168 
 
 with alligators, which are apt to be mis- 
 taken at times for logs which are floated 
 down this stream in large quantities to a 
 market. 
 
 ©reen Cove Springes (30 , 
 miles), on the west bank, is one of the 
 most frequented resorts on the river. 
 It owes its name to a sulphur-spring 
 in the village, which has recently been 
 leased to an enterprising hotel-man. This 
 spring throws out about 3,000 gallons 
 of water per minute, which is strongly 
 impregnated with sulphur, and has a tem- 
 perature of 78 degrees Fahrenhat at all 
 seasons. This makes It delightful for 
 bathing purposes. The basin is from 
 85 to 40 feet in diameter, and the deep- 
 est place is 25 feet below the surface. In 
 the shallowest part it is only two feet deep, 
 so that a small child can bathe with safety. 
 The water comes up with such force and 
 is carried away so rapidly that persons are 
 frequently seen bathing and drinking at 
 the same time. It is said to possess great 
 virtue as a remedial agent. Hotel ■ 
 Umon Souse ; |3 per day. 
 
 nogarth's WbarT (36 miles), 
 a wood-landing on the east bank, has a 
 post-ofice, but is otherwise unimportant. 
 
 Picolata (45 miles), on the east 
 bank, is the site of an old Spanish settle- 
 ment, of which little remains. Two hun- 
 dred years ago it was the main depot of 
 supply for the Spanish plantations of the 
 up-country. A splendid church and 
 some religious houses for their order 
 were built by the Franciscan monks in 
 this place. On the opposite side of the 
 river are the ruins of a great earthwork 
 fort of the time of the Spanish occapa- 
 tion. There is a good home for visitors. 
 
 focoi (67 miles), on the east bank, 
 is the depot of the St. Augustine Railway. 
 Passing Ji'ederal Point (63 miles), a wood- 
 station. Orange Mills (66 miles), and 
 Dancey's Place (67 miles), where there 
 are several fine orange-groves, we reach 
 
 Pilatka (75 miles), on the west 
 bank, which is the largest town on the St. 
 John's River, after leaving Jacksonville. 
 It is well situated on high ground above 
 the river, extending about half a mile 
 along its banks. It has a population of 
 about 1,000. Opposite the village, on 
 the eastern bank, there is a handsome 
 oranye-grove of 600 trees, well kept, and 
 
WlLAKA.] 
 
 FLORIDA. 
 
 [Mk.tONTII.LE. 
 
 worth visiting. The river becomes nar- 
 rower at Filatka, which, is steamboat 
 headquarters for the Upper St. John's 
 and its tributaries. Steamers run from 
 this point to Dunn's Lake, :ind also up 
 the Ocklawaha River to Silver Spring, 
 Ocala, and the head of navigation,'a dis- 
 tance of 180 miles. The steamers Dar- 
 lington, Hattie, and Florence, en route for 
 Enterprise, lie overnight at PUatka, to 
 discharge and receive freight ; affording 
 passengers an opportunity to spend a few 
 hours ashore. Hotels : Pataam House 
 and Si. John's, 
 
 Wilaka. (95 miles), on the east 
 bank, near the entrance to Dunn's Lake, 
 and to the Ocklawaha River, is the site of 
 what was originally an Indian village, and 
 afterward a flourishing Spanish settle- 
 ment. The Ocklawaha River is much 
 admired by tourists, on account of the 
 wild and.picturcsque scenery of its banks, 
 along which are some fine cotton and 
 sugar plantations. Perhaps the largest 
 and most beautiful of the springs of 
 Florida is 
 
 Silver Spring, near this place, 
 a spring navigable by steamers of several 
 tons burden. This spring is said to be 
 the " fountain of youth " of which -B« 
 &ai» dreamed and vainly searched for. 
 The clearness of the waters is indeed 
 wonderful ; they seem more transparent 
 . than air. Tou see on the bottom, eighty 
 feet below, the shadow of your boat, the 
 exact form of the smallest pebble, and all 
 the prismatic colors of the rainbow are 
 beautifully reflected, and you can see the 
 fissures in the rocks from which the 
 water pours upward like an inverted 
 cataract. 
 
 I^ake Cteorge. — This is one of 
 the most beautiful sheets of water in the 
 world, being considered by many tourists 
 equal in attraction to its namesake in 
 the State of New York. After leaving 
 Wilaka, the river widens into Iditle Lake 
 Oeorge, 4 miles Wide and 7 miles long, 
 and then into Sig Lake Oeorge, 12 miles 
 wide and 18 miles long. Among the 
 many lovely islands which dot the bosom 
 of this lake, is one called Rembrandt. 
 It is 1,700 acres in extent, and contains 
 one of the largest orange-groves on the 
 river. All along the lake the eye is de- 
 lighted and the ear is channed by the 
 8 
 
 brilliant plumage and the sweet song of 
 the southern birds. One finds here the 
 heron, the crane, the white curlew, the 
 pelican, the loon, and the paroquet. 
 
 'Volusia. (5 miles from Lake George, 
 and 6S miles from Filatka), on the east 
 bank, is a wood-station,' with a pretty 
 large settlement back from the river. An 
 ancient Spanish city used to stand here, 
 this formerly being the principal point on 
 the line of travel between St. Augustine 
 and the Mosquito Inlet country. A fort 
 was erected here during the Seminole War, 
 and from this port General Eustis, in com- 
 mand of the left wing of the army, com- 
 posed principally of regular and drafted 
 three-mouths men from South Carolina 
 and Georgia, set out to cross the country 
 to the TVithlacoochee, to join General 
 Scott. After a fruitless campaign of 
 three months, the latter and his army re- 
 crossed the river on their way to St. 
 Augustine. New Smyrna and Indian 
 River on the coast are easily reached 
 from this point. If the sportsman will 
 forego some little comforts in getting to 
 this locality, he will be well rewarded. 
 New Smyrna was settled by Dr. TumbuU 
 and his colony of 1,500 Minorcans, in 
 lYSV, and was named by his wife, who 
 was a native of Smyrna. The colonists 
 cultivated indigo with much success, but, 
 not being dealt with according to con- 
 tract, they abandoned the settlement and 
 settled in and near St. Augustine, where 
 their descendants now reside. A large 
 canal, draining the TumbuU Swamp into 
 the Hillsboro' River, at New Smyrna, is 
 the only permanent monument the found- 
 er of this colony has left to posterity. 
 
 Bine Spring (15 miles) is one of 
 the largest in the State. It is several 
 hundred yards from the St. John's, but 
 the stream flowing from the spring is 
 large enough, at its confluence at the 
 river, for the steamers to float in it. One 
 can look over the side of the steamer into 
 the crystal-clear water below and observe 
 every movement of the families of the 
 finny tribe below, as they flit about in 
 the stream, unconscious of the presence 
 of man. 
 
 mellonT-ille (200 miles from Jack- 
 sonville), on the west bank, one of the 
 principal landings on the Upper St. 
 John's, was formerly the site of Pprt 
 169 
 
Entebfbisk] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [St. AtropsTiHB. 
 
 ilellon, built during the Indian War. It 
 is pleasantly situated on Lake Monroe, a 
 sheet of water, 12 miles long and 6 miles 
 wide, teeming with delicious fish. Wild- 
 fowl are abundant. Hotel : the»0ra»5'e 
 
 Enterprise (205 miles), on the 
 east bank, on Lake Monroe, at the head 
 of regular steamboat navigation, is the 
 great headquarters for the sportsman. 
 Pishing and hunting expeditions are fitted 
 out here for the upper lakes and the In- 
 dian River country. Horses and boats 
 are kept on hire, and during the winter 
 a small steamboat makes frequent excur- 
 sions to Lakes Jessup and Harney, for 
 the benefit of those who wish to try their 
 hand at the exciting sport of alligator, 
 shooting, or of those who wish simply to 
 enjoy the charming scenery. The trip to 
 Lake Harney and back is made in one 
 day. Lake Jessup is in the vicinity of 
 Lake Harney. It is Vj miles long and 6 
 miles wide, but is so shallow that it can- 
 not be entered by a boat drawing more 
 than three feet of water. The St. John's 
 rises in the Everglades, fully 120 miles 
 farther south than Enterprise, but tourists 
 ascend no farther than Lake Hamey, 12 
 miles from Enterprise. It is proposed to 
 deepen the channel of the St. John's, from 
 Enterprise to Lake Washington, which 
 will give inland communication with In- 
 dian River, Sand Point, Mosquito Inlet, 
 Indian River Inlet, Susannah, Jupiter In- 
 let, and the capes, and open the entire 
 southeast coast of Florida to the extrem- 
 ity of the Peninsula. To the adventurous 
 sportsman this part of the State is an 
 earthly paradise. The climate is genial, 
 the Indian River teems with every kind 
 of fish that is fdund in Southern waters, 
 and the woods abound in game of vari- 
 ous descriptions. 
 
 Enterprise has capital hotel accommo- 
 dations. The Brock Home is much fre- 
 quented during the winter. Boarding 
 costs here from $12 to $26 per week. 
 The Green Spring is a beautiful sulphur 
 spring of a pale-green color, and quite 
 transparent. It is nearly 80 feet in diam- 
 eter, and about 100 feet deep. Pish can- 
 not live in its waters. 
 
 St. Ang^ustine. — ^The quaint lit- 
 tle city of St. Augustine, the oldest Euro- 
 pean settlement in the United States, is 
 170 
 
 situated on the Atlantic coast of Florida, 
 on a narrow peninsula formed by the Se- 
 bastian and Matanzas Rivers, on the west 
 side of a harbor which is separated from 
 the ocean by the low and narrow island 
 of Anastosia. It lies about 40 miles 
 south of the mouth of the river St. 
 John's, and is connected by a railway, 16 
 miles long, with Toccn landing. 
 
 St. Augustine was founded by the 
 Spaniards in 1666, more than half a cen- 
 tury before the landing of the Pilgrims 
 at Plymouth, and was from the start a 
 place of note, and the scene of interest- 
 ing historical events. Its founder, Don 
 Pedro Menendez, was one of the most 
 eminent men of Spain, and a famous com- 
 mander during the reign of Philip II., by 
 whom be was sent to Florida at the head 
 of an expedition comprising thirty-four 
 vessels and two thousand six hundred 
 persons, to colonize the country and sup- 
 press a Huguenot settlement made in 
 1564 near the mouth of the St. John's. 
 He landed at St. Augustine on August 
 28, 1566, established his colony, and then 
 marched to exterminate the Huguenots, 
 which he effected with great vigor and 
 cruelty, putting to death all his prisoners, 
 " not because they are Frenchmen, but 
 because they are heretics and enemies of 
 God." Two years later, this massacre 
 was avenged by a French adventurer, 
 Dominique de Gourgues, who, with a 
 small force of volunteers, attacked and 
 captured the Spanish forts on the St. 
 John's, and hanged his prisoners, "not 
 because they are Spaniards, but because 
 they are traitors, robbers, and murder, 
 ers." De Gourgues, however, made no 
 attempt to retain his conquest, but, after 
 his deed of retribution was accomplished ' 
 sailed back to France. 
 
 Menendez was absent in Spain during 
 this attack by De Gourgues, and did not 
 return until the affair was over. He con- 
 tinued for some years longer to rule the 
 colony, but finally returned to Spain, 
 where his reputation for ability was so 
 high that he was made captain-general 
 of the navy, soon after which he died, at 
 the age of fifty-five. His career in Flor- 
 ida, though stained with cruelty, was dis- 
 tinguished for energy and, perseverance, 
 and to him, undoubtedly, is due the credit 
 of estabhshing the first permanent settle- 
 
St. A0GOSTINE.] 
 
 JFLORIDA. 
 
 [St. Augustine. 
 
 ment in the United States. His selection 
 of St. Augustine, as the site for his chief 
 town, showed his good judgment. The 
 situation was peculiarly favorable. The 
 harbor, while affording ample accommo- 
 dation for vessels bringing in supplies 
 for the garrison, was inaccessible to 
 those of a larger class, and was thus tol- 
 erably protected from the attack of a 
 hostile fleet; while, landward, the estu- 
 aries and marshes defended it from the 
 Indians. A atUl more favorable feature 
 in the location of Menendez's garrison, 
 was its great healthiness. Surrounded by 
 salt marshes, free from miasmatic exhala- 
 tions, the pure and balmy sea-air pre- 
 served the colonists from those fevers so 
 fatal to the first settlers on our Southern 
 coasts. 
 
 In 1586, Sir Francis Drake, the famous 
 English fillibuster, returning from an ex- 
 pedition against the Spanish West In- 
 dies, appeared off St. Augustine, and so 
 terrified the Spaniards that they aban- 
 doned the fort and the town to him with- 
 out any attempt at resistance, and fled to 
 the shelter of the forts on the St. John's. 
 Brake took possession, and pillaged and 
 burned the town, carrying away consider- 
 able booty. The principal public build- 
 ings of the place at that time were a 
 court-house, a church, and a monastery. 
 After the departure of Drake, the Span- 
 iards returned and rebuilt the town, 
 which, however, grew so slowly, that in 
 1647 there were within its walls only 
 three hundred families, or fifteen hundred 
 inhabitants, including fifty monks of the 
 order of St. Francis. 
 
 In 1665, a party of English buccaneers, 
 commanded by Captain John Davis, 
 made a descent upon St. Augustine witii 
 seven small vessels, and pillaged the 
 town. The garrison, though consisting 
 of two hundred inen, do not appear to 
 have resisted the attack, which, it is 
 probable, was made from the south by 
 boats. 
 
 In 1702, Spain and England being at 
 war, an expedition against St. Augustine 
 was organized in South Carolina, by Gov- 
 ernor Moore, of that colony. It consisted 
 of six hundred whites, and as many In- 
 dian allies, and its plan of operations 
 comprised a march by land of one por- 
 tion of the force, and an attack by sea of 
 
 the other. The land force was com- 
 manded by Colonel Daniel, the naval 
 force by Governor Moore himself. The 
 forces under Colonel Daniel reached St. 
 Augustine before the naval part of the 
 expedition appeared, and easily captured 
 the town; the governor, Don Joseph 
 Cuniga, and the inhabitants, taking re- 
 fuge in the castle, which was well sup- 
 plied with provisions, and contained a 
 considerable garrison. Governor Moore, 
 with the fieet, soon after arrived, and in- 
 vested the fortifications, but, not having 
 siege -guns of sufiBcient calibre, could 
 make no impression on the walls of the 
 fort. Colonel Daniel was sent to Jamaica 
 to procure heavier guns. While he was 
 absent, two Spanish vessels appeared off 
 the harbor. Governor Moore, fearing 
 that he was about to be attacked by a 
 superior force and his retreat cut off, 
 hastily raised the siege, destroying such 
 of his munitions as he could not remove, 
 and barbarously burning the town. He 
 retreated by land, abandoning his vessels 
 for fear of the Spanish squadron. Short- 
 ly afterward, Colonel Daniel returned 
 from Jamaica with mortars and heavy 
 guns, but found Moore gone, and was 
 himself nearly captured. The expedition 
 returned to Carolina in disgrace, but 
 without the loss of a man. It cost the 
 colony of South Carolina six thousand 
 pounds, and led to the issue of the first 
 paper money ever circulated in America. , 
 In 1121, Colonel Palmer, an energetic 
 ofScer, made a raid into Florida with 
 about three hundred Carolina militia, and 
 carried destruction by fire and sword to 
 the very gates of St. Augustine, which, 
 however, he dared not attack, though he 
 sacked a Yemassee village about a mile 
 north of the city. In 1740, war again 
 existing between Spain and England, an 
 expedition against St. Augustine was or- 
 ganized by the famous General Ogle- 
 thorpe, then Governor of Georgia. He 
 obtained assistance from South Carolina, 
 and from England a naval force of six 
 ships. About the 1st of June his forces 
 reached St. Augustine, which was defend- 
 ed by a not very numerous garrison com- 
 manded by Don Manuel de Monteano, the 
 Governor of Florida, a man of energy and 
 resolution. After a siege of five or six 
 weeks, carried on chiefly by bombard- 
 171 
 
St. ATTGtISTINE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [St. Augustine. 
 
 ment from Anastasia Island, Oglethorpe 
 became satisfied that he could not take 
 the place, especially as his fleet had with- 
 drawn in apprehension of bad weather, 
 and he accordingly embarked his troops 
 and sailed away on July 9th. Two years 
 later, the Spanish Governor of Florida, 
 the energetic Monteano, haying received 
 reenforcements from Cuba, sailed from 
 St. Augustine with thirty-six vessels and 
 three thousand men to attack the Eng- 
 lish settlements in Georgia. He met 
 with some success at first, but was finally 
 baffled, partly by the force and partly by 
 the finesse of Oglethorpe, and returned 
 to Florida. In the following year, 1743, 
 Oglethorpe made a raid into the Spanish 
 dominions to the gates of St. Augustine, 
 advancing with such celerity and secrecy 
 that the Indians attached to lus force 
 captured and scalped forty of the Spanish 
 troops under the very walls of Fort St. 
 Marks, the chief defence of the city. 
 The British kept possession of Florida 
 about twenty years, and then, in 1Y83, 
 receded it to Spain in exchange for the 
 Bahama Islands. St. Augustine, at that 
 time, contained 8,000 inhabitants. In 
 1819 it was transferred to the TJnited 
 States. During the late war it changed 
 masters three times. 
 
 Hotels : St. Augustine Hold, a large, 
 well-kept house. Terms : |3.50 per day ; 
 less by the month. Florida, House and 
 Magnolia House. 
 
 Port of St. Marks (or Fort Marion). — 
 The most conspicuous feature in the town 
 is the old Fort of St. Marks, which is 
 built of coquina, a unique conglomerate 
 of fine shells and sand, found in large 
 quantities on Anastasia Island, at the en- 
 trance of the harbor, and quarried with 
 great ease, though it becomes hard by 
 exposure to the air. It is quarried in 
 large blocks, and forms a wall well calcu- 
 lated to resist cannon-shot, because it 
 does not splinter when struck. The fort' 
 stands on the sea-front at one end of the 
 town. It was a hundred years in build- 
 ing, and was completed in 1756, as is at- 
 tested by the following inscription, which 
 may still be seen over the gate-way, to- 
 gether with the arms of Spain, hand- 
 somely carved in stone : " Don Fernando 
 being King of Spain, and the Field-Mar- | 
 Bhal Don Alonzo Fernando Herida being I 
 172 
 
 gbvernor and captain -general of this 
 place, St. Augustine of Florida and its 
 provinces, this fort was finished in the 
 year 1756. The works were directed by 
 the Oaptain-Engineer Don Pedro de Bra- 
 zos y Gareny." 
 
 While owned by the British, this was 
 said to be the prettiest fort in the kmg'9 
 dominions. Its castellated battlements ; 
 its formidable bastions, with their frown- 
 ing guns ; its lofty and imposing sally- 
 port, surrounded by the royal Spanish 
 arms ; its portcullis, moat, draw-bridge ; 
 its circular and ornate sentry-boxes at 
 each principal parapet-angle; its com- 
 manding lookout tower; and its stained 
 and moss-grown massive walls^-impress 
 the external observer as a relic of the 
 distant past i while a ramble through its 
 heavy casements^its crumbling Romish 
 chapel, with elaborate portico and inner 
 altar and holy-water niches; its dark 
 passages, gloomy vaults, and more re- 
 cently-discovered dungeons — bring you 
 to ready credence of its many traditions 
 of inquisitorial tortures ; of decaying 
 skeletons, found in the latest - opened 
 chambers, chained to the rusty ring-bolts, 
 and of alleged subterranean passages to 
 the neighboring convent. 
 
 T/ie , Oathearal.: — The cathedral is 
 unique, with its belfry in the form of a 
 section of a, bell-shaped pyramid, its 
 chime of four bells in separate mches, 
 and its clock, together forming a cross. 
 The oldest of these bells is marked 1682. 
 
 Oilier Churches. — ^There is a neat Epis- 
 copalian church on the Plaza, and there 
 are also Methodist, Baptist, and Presby- 
 terian churches in the city. 
 
 The Fiona de la Constitudon is a fine 
 public square in the centre of the town, 
 on which stand, the ancient .markets, and 
 which is faced by the Cathedral, the old 
 palace, the convent, a modem Episcopal 
 church, and other fine structures. In 
 the centre of the Plaza stands a monu- 
 ment, erected in honor of the Spanish 
 Liberal Constitution. 
 
 The old Huguenot Surying-Ground is 
 a spot of much interest ; so is the mili- 
 tary burying-ground, where rest the re- 
 mains of those who fell near here during 
 the prolonged Seminole War. Under 
 three pyramids of coquina, stuccoed and 
 whitened, are the ashes of Major Dade 
 
St. AueusiiNE.] 
 
 FLORIDA. 
 
 [Peksacola. 
 
 and one hundred and seven men of his 
 command, who were massacred by Osce- 
 ola and his band. 
 
 A fine sea-wali of nearly a mile in 
 length, built of coquina, with a coping 
 of granite, protects the entire ocean-front 
 of the city, and furnishes a delightful 
 promenade of a moonlight evening. In 
 full view of this is the old ligtt-houae on 
 Anastasia Island, built more than a cen- 
 tury ago, and now surmounted with a 
 fine revolving lantern. 
 
 Convents. — There are two convents in 
 St. Augustine, whose nuns are mainly oc- 
 cupied in the education of young girls. 
 There are among them a number of nuns 
 brought over from France, a few years 
 since, who teach, besides their own lan- 
 guage, the art of making lace, and have 
 also introduced the manufacture of hats 
 from the palmetto and from the wire- 
 grass, which is very strong and durable. 
 The old Convent of St. Mary's is a sug- 
 gestive relic of the days of papal rule. 
 The new convent is a tasteful building of 
 the ancient coquina. 
 
 TJie United States Barracks, recently 
 remodelled and improved, are said to 
 have been built as a convent, or monas- 
 tery. 
 
 The old GovemmentSonse, or palace, 
 is now in use as the post-office and 
 United States court-rooms. At its rear 
 is a well-preserved relic of what seems to 
 have been a fortification to protect the 
 town from an over-the-river or inland at- 
 tack. An older house than this, former- 
 ly occupied by the attorney-general, was 
 pulled down a few years ago. Its ruins 
 are still a curiosity, and are called 
 (though incorrectly) the governor's house. 
 
 St. Augustine is not built wholly of 
 coquina and in the Spanish style ; there 
 are many fine residences there in the 
 American style. A profusion of tropical 
 plants, and shrubs, and trees, ornament 
 their grounds. Here the orange flour- 
 ishes, and is abundant and delicious ; sev- 
 eral fine groves invite the visitor's inspec- 
 tion. The fig, and date, and palm, and 
 banana, are all seen here, as also the lime 
 and lemon, which grow to a great size, and 
 the sweet and the wild olive ; the citron, 
 the guava, and the pomegranate, are all 
 mdigenous. The grape, and the peach, 
 and the water-melon, also' grow here with 
 
 great luxuriance. The climate is not sur- 
 passed anywhere in the world, and, with 
 a little enterprise on the part of the in- 
 haDitan^, btl Augustine can be made one 
 of the most attractive of American cities. 
 The Hon. Mrs. Yelverton writes : " Moon- 
 light m'ghts are the glory of St. Augus- 
 tine. So bright and cool, and soft and 
 balmy, few can resist the enjoyableness 
 of a stroll, or the dreamy bliss of sitting 
 out on the veranda, listening to the 
 echoes of the band, or the tinkling of 
 some distant guitar, dreaming over all the 
 happiness we know — past, present, or to 
 come." 
 
 Appalacbicola, is in the western 
 part of the State, at the entrance of the 
 river of the same name into the Gulf of 
 Mexico, through the Appalachicola Bay. 
 It is easily accessible by the river and the 
 gulf. Appalachicola was formerly a place 
 of considerable trade, being the shipping- 
 port for the rich cotton-growing region 
 lying on the Chattahoochee and Flint 
 Kivers. The Cliattahoochec is navigable as 
 far up as Columbus, Ga., a distance of 367 
 miles. In consequence of the building 
 of the numerous railways in Lower Geor- 
 gia and Alabama, tapping the river, the 
 trade of this old city has been transferred 
 to Mobile and Savannah. The popula- 
 tion of Appalachicola is now considera- 
 bly less than 1,000. 
 
 Pensacola, the principal city of 
 Western Florida, is thus spoken of in a 
 pamphlet issued by the " New City Com- 
 pany : " 
 
 " The city of Pensacola has natural ad- 
 vantages which destine it to become, by 
 rapid strides, the Chicago of the SoutJu 
 It is situated on the north coast of the 
 Gulf of Mexico, in latitude 30° 28' 
 north, and longitude 81" 22' west of 
 Greenwich, only ten miles from the open 
 sea. Its thoroughly land-looked harbor 
 covers an area of over 200 square miles, 
 being about 30 miles long, and from five to 
 eight miles in width, having unsurpassed 
 anchorage, and a depth of fron 30 to 35 
 feet. The entrance to the harbor is 
 about half a mile wide, with an average 
 depth on the bar of twenty four feet. The 
 same depth is readily secured at the 
 wharfage line of the city. A laden ship 
 of largest tonnage can approach the city 
 at any time in the year, or, leaving its 
 173 
 
Tampa Bat.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Key West. 
 
 wharres, can be in the open sea in an hour 
 and a half." 
 
 Pensacola was known as late as 1699 by 
 its Indian name of Ausclusia. The har- 
 bor here is one of the safest on the Flori- 
 da coast, which is not remarkable for safe 
 harbors. It is well sheltered by Santa 
 Rosa Island, and is defended by Forts 
 Pickens, McRea, and Barrancas. Forts 
 McEea and Barrancas were occupied by 
 southern troops during the war of 1861- 
 '65, Fort Pickens being held by the Gov- 
 ernment forces. Pensacola is a TJ. S. naval 
 station, and contains a Marine Sospiial 
 and Custom-Souse. It may be reached 
 from Jacksonville and Eastern Florida by 
 the railroad to St. Marks on the Gulf, and 
 regular packet-steamer from St. Marks 
 to Pensacola Bay. The Pensacola & 
 Louisville Railway connects at Pollard 
 with the Mobile & Montgomery Railway. 
 The population of Pensacola at the pres- 
 ent time is about 4,000. 
 
 Xampa. 'Bay, formerly Espiritu 
 Santo Bay, is a splendid harbor for the 
 largest vessels, near the centre of the 
 western coast of Florida. It is about 40 
 miles long, and is dotted with small 
 islands. The waters of the bay swarm 
 with fish and turtle, in some places the 
 former being so numerous that they im- 
 pede the passage of boats. Sea-fowl are 
 abundant, and the beach is lined with the 
 beautiful flamingo-bird. The village of 
 Tampa has regular mail communication 
 with Gainesville. The projected railroad 
 to Waldo, on the Cedar Keys dt Femw/n^ 
 dina Railway, when completed, will make 
 Tampa one of the principal ports on the 
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 Charlotte Harbor, or Boca 
 Grande, on the coast, south of Tampa 
 Bay, is about 25 miles long, and 8 to 10 
 miles wide and is sheltered from the sea 
 by several islands. ■ The fisheries in and 
 around the harbor are very valuable — 
 the oysters gathered on the coast being 
 remarkably fine and abundant. The en- 
 trance to the harbor between Boca 
 Grande Key and Gasperilla is six fathoms 
 deep and three-quarters of a mile wide. 
 
 Alpati'rkee STramp is upon 
 the head-waters of the St. Lucie River. 
 
 Indian Ri'ver, a noted resort for 
 sportsmen, an extensive lagoon along the 
 Atlantic coast of Florida, is nearly 100 
 
 miles in length, and varies in width from 
 four miles to 60 yards. 
 
 Xlie ETergladcs, are described 
 in the introductory part of this chapter. 
 {See page 162.) 
 
 Biscayne Bay at the end of the 
 peninsula, and emptying into Barnes's 
 Sound and Florida Bay, is a good harbor 
 for vessels drawing less than 10 feet of 
 water, and is always open. The yield of 
 the bay in sponges and turtle is valued at 
 $100,000 per annum. Lieutenant-Govern- 
 or Gleason says of the Biscayne Bay 
 country : " The pure water, the chalybeate 
 and other mineral springs, the magnifi- 
 cent beauty of the scenery, the salubrity 
 and equability of its climate, must make 
 Biscayane Bay, at no distant day, the 
 resort of the invaUd, the tourist, and the 
 lover of adventure." 
 
 rrhe Florida Keys are a series 
 of rocky islands of coral formation, ex- 
 tending along the southern coast, from 
 Cape Florida to the Dry Tortugas, situated 
 between the main-land and the Florida 
 Beefs, and within three to five miles of the 
 Gulf Stream. The largest of the Keys is 
 Cayo Largo. 
 
 Key IVest is upon the island of 
 the same name, 11 feet above the sea 
 level, off the southern extremity of the 
 peninsula, and occupies the important 
 post of key to the Gulf-passage. It was 
 first settled in 1822, and is now one of 
 the most populous cities of Florida, hav- 
 ing a population of about 6,000. It is a 
 military station of the United States, and 
 the seat of the U. S. Admiralty Court. 
 Some 30,000 bushels of salt are annually 
 made at Key West, by solar evaporation. 
 Great quantities of sponges, turtles, and 
 fruit, too, are found and exported ; but the 
 chief business of the island accrues from 
 the salvages upon the wrecks cast upon 
 the coast. Forty or fifty vessels are every 
 year lost in the vicinity, by which the 
 island profits to the amount of $200,000. 
 The Marine Hospital here, 100 feet long, 
 is a noteworthy building. Fort Taiylor, 
 a strong and costly post, defends the har- 
 bor. There are some 15 cigar-manufac- 
 tories, which together turn out about 
 40,000 choice Havana cigars per day; 
 and there is also a factory for canning 
 pineapples — the only one in the country 
 — where some 10,000 cans are put up 
 
EJBT West.] 
 
 FLORIDA. 
 
 [Thb Dry Tomcoas. 
 
 daily. There are several churches in Key 
 West. Key West is a favorite resort for 
 invalids, the climate being agreeable and 
 healthful, and the island covered through- 
 out the year with the msst beautiful fo- 
 liage and tropical flowers. There are a 
 number of charming drives on the island. 
 Constant communication is had by packet 
 steamer with New York, New Orleans, 
 Havana, Galveston, and Cedar Keys. The 
 passage to Havana ie made in a few hours. 
 The New Orleans, Cedar Keys, and 
 Havana steamers afford weekly commu- 
 nication with all points in Upper and 
 Middle Florida, by means of the Florida 
 SaUway, Hotel: Russell House; per- 
 manent guests $1 6 per week. 
 
 Xhe Dry Tortug'as arc a series 
 of desolate, barren rocks, at the extreme 
 end of the Tlorida Keys, and extending 
 some distance into the Gulf of Mexico. 
 The islands are defended by fortifications. 
 
 During the war they were used as a penal- 
 station for Confederate prisoners, and 
 several of the conspirators concerned in 
 the assassination of President Lincoln 
 were confined there. On one side of the 
 rocks there is a light-house. 
 
 Florida is becoming more and more 
 popular as a winter resort for Northern 
 invalids, and during the season of 1872-'73 
 it is said that not less than 25,000 made 
 it their residence. Conveniences are al- 
 ready much greater than when visitors 
 first began to be attracted, and the kind 
 of " roughing it " which tourists and in- 
 valids alike had to put up with a few years 
 ago is now superseded by tolerably com- 
 fortable hotels and boarding - houses. 
 There is still much room for improve- 
 ment, however, and Florida will never 
 become what it aspires to be, the nation- 
 al winter sanitarium, until provision is 
 made for some first-class hotels. 
 
 175 
 
Alabama.] 
 
 SOUTHEKN TOUE. 
 
 [Alabaua. 
 
 ALABAMA 
 
 This State, though hitherto little visit- 
 ed by tourists and pleasure-seekers, either 
 from the North or South, forms, neverthe- 
 less, an interesting field of adventure, as 
 „ well as an important link of communica- 
 tion in making the grand tour of the 
 South. From the North it is most readi- 
 ly and expeditiously reached by way of 
 Washington, Lynchburg, Knoxville, and 
 Atlanta. The route by Savannah, Macon, 
 Columbus, and Montgomery, is, however, 
 the most pleasant, as combining both sea 
 and laud travel. Travellers from New 
 Orleans and Mobile can reach Montgom- 
 ery, the State capital, either by boat up 
 the Alabama River, or by railway from 
 Mobile. Alabama contains an area of 
 60,'722 square miles, or 32,462,080 acres. 
 It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, 
 east by Georgia, south by Florida and 
 the Gulf of Mexico, and west by Missis- 
 sippi. The history of this State is in- 
 volved in some obscurity. It is supposed 
 that it was first visited by white men in 
 1541, when the troops of De Soto passed 
 through it on their memorable exploring 
 expedition to the great Mississippi. In 
 1702 a fort was erected in Mobile Bay by 
 a Frenchman named Bienville, and nine 
 years later the present site of the city of 
 Mobile was occupied. At the peace of 
 116S, this territory passed into the pos- 
 session of the English, with all the French 
 possessions (except New Orleans) east of 
 the Mississippi. Until 1802 Alabama was 
 included in the domain of Georgia, and, 
 after 1802 and up to 1817, it was a part 
 of the Mississippi Territory. At that 
 period it was formed into a distinct gov- 
 ernment, and was admitted in 1819 into 
 the Union as an independent State. Ala- 
 bama passed the ordinance of secession 
 on January 11, 1861, and was admitted 
 again into the Union in June, 1868. 
 
 The natural beauties of Alabama, except- 
 ing in- the peculiar features of the south- 
 176 
 
 em lowlands seen near the coast, are not 
 of such marked interest to the tourist as 
 the landscape of many other States. In 
 the upper region are the extreme south- 
 em outposts of the great Appalachian 
 hill-ranges ; but, as if wearied with all 
 their long journey, they here droop their 
 once bold heads and fall to sleep, willing, 
 perhaps, to accept the poetical significa- 
 tion of the name of the new territory into 
 which they now enter — Alabama, Mere we 
 rest. While the upper portion of the 
 State is thus rude and hilly, the central 
 falls into fertile prairie-reaehes. The ex- 
 treme southern edge for fifty or sixty 
 miles from the Gulf is sometimes a sandy, 
 sometimes a rich, alluvial plain. 
 
 The climate, like that of most of the 
 Southern States, varies from the charac- 
 teristics of the tropics in the southern 
 portion of the State, through all the in- 
 termediate degrees, to the salubrious and 
 invigorating air of the mountain-lands in 
 the north. 
 
 The chief agricultural product of Ala- 
 bama is cotton, of which great staple it 
 yielded, before the war, more than any 
 other State in the Union. Extensive 
 canebrakes once existed, but they have 
 been greatly cleared away. Sugar-cane 
 grows on the southwest neck, between 
 Mobile and the Mississippi. Many of the 
 rich alluvial tracts yield rice abundantly. 
 Tobacco, also, is produced. Indian-corn, 
 oats, sweet-potatoes, buckwheat, barley, 
 flax, and silk, are much cultivated, be- 
 sides many other grains, fruits, and vege- 
 tables, and large supplies of live-stock 
 of aU descriptions. 
 
 Alabama is rich in minerals ; deposits 
 of coal, iron, variegated marbles, lime- 
 stonej and other treasures, being exten- 
 sively found within her borders. Gold- 
 mines, too, have been found and worked. 
 Salt, sulphur, and chalybeate springs, 
 abound. 
 
AULBAMA RlTEB,] 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 [Mobile. 
 
 Popiilaiion, Wealth, etc. — The popula- 
 tion of Alabama, in 1860, was 964,501, 
 of whom 526,2'?1 were whites, 2,690 free 
 blacks, 435,080 slaves, and 160 Indians. 
 In 1870 it is ^ven as 996,988, of whom 
 437,770 were blacks; The total value of 
 real estate and personal property in 1870 
 was $155,582,595. In January, 1873, it 
 was estimated that there were 1,566 miles 
 of railroad in the State. According to 
 the land-commissioner's report of No- 
 vember 1, 1869 (the latest at hand), 
 there were 6,581,305 acres of public 
 lands in Alabama unsold and unappro- 
 priated. 
 
 EITEES. 
 
 The Ala'ba.nta. is the principal 
 river of the State. It is formed by the 
 Coosa and Tallapoosa, which unite about 
 10 miles north of Montgomery. About 
 45 miles above Mobile it is joined by the 
 Tombigbee, and the united waters are 
 thence known as the Mobile River. The 
 Alabama is navigable for large steamers 
 through its whole course of 460 miles, 
 from the city of Mobile to Wetumpka. 
 Between these points there are upward 
 of 200 landings. It flows through a 
 country of rich cotton-fields, broad sa- 
 vanna-lands, and dense forest - tracts. 
 The trip down the Alabama, from Mont- 
 gomery to Mobile, during the cotton- 
 shipping season (December to March), 
 forma one of the most interesting and 
 exciting experiences of the Southern trav- 
 eller. 
 
 Vombigh^c River flows 460 
 miles from the northeast corner of Mis- 
 sissippi, first to Demopolis, where it 
 unites with the Black Warrior, and 
 thence to the Alabama Eiver, about 45 
 nules above Mobile. Its course ia through 
 fertUo savanna-lands, occupied by cotton- 
 plantations. Aberdeen, Columbus, Pick- 
 ensville, Gainesville, and Demopolis, are 
 upon its banks. Large steamboats ascend 
 416 miles to Columbus. 
 
 Black W arrior Itiver unites 
 at Demopolis with the Tombigbee {see Tom- 
 bigbee, above). Tuscaloosa, once the capi- 
 tal of the State, is upon its banks. To this 
 point large steamboats regularly ascend, 
 413 miles from Mobile. The Indian name 
 of this river was Tuscaloosa, and it is still 
 lometimcs so called. 
 
 The Chattabooclice forms a part 
 of the eastern boundary of the State. {See 
 Georoia.) 
 
 The Xenncssce flows for 130 miles 
 of its course through Northern Alabama 
 (see Muscle Shoals). The remaining 
 rivers worthy of mention are the Cahaw- 
 ba, Escambia, Blackwater, TeUowwater, 
 and Choctawhatchee. 
 
 MOBIXB. 
 
 Mobile, the chief city of Alabama, and 
 one of the principal sea-ports of the 
 South, is situated on a beautiful bay, 
 about 30 miles long, at the mouth of the 
 Mobile River. It was founded by the 
 French in 1699, and was ceded by that 
 nation to England in 1763. To Lemoin 
 D'Iberville, who has not inaptly been 
 called the " father of Southern coloniza- 
 tion," justly belongs the credit of found- 
 ing the city. Historians, however, difier 
 as to the precise date of the foundation. 
 In 1780, England surrendered it to Spain, 
 and that Government made it over to the 
 United States in 1813. It was incorpo- 
 rated as a city in December, 1819, the 
 population numbering about 800 souls. 
 It was one of the last points in the Con- 
 federacy occupied by Union forces dur- 
 ing the late war. In 1864 (August 5th), 
 Admiral Farragut made his expedition 
 against Mobile. That he 'might oversee 
 the battle more distinctly, he took his 
 position in the maintop of his flag-ship, 
 the Hartford. The vessels, lashed to- 
 gether in pairs, for mutual assistance, in 
 an hour fought their way past the Con- 
 federate forts, and engaged the iron-clad 
 fleet beyond. After a desperate resist- 
 ance, the great iron-ram Tennessee was 
 taken, and the other vessels either -cap- 
 tured or put to flight. The forts were 
 soon after reduced, and the harbor closed 
 against blockade-runners. The city was 
 not captured until the next year, when 
 Generals Granger's, Steele's, and A. J. 
 Smith's commands, making a force of 
 about 45,000 men, were collected by 
 General Canby for this purpose. The 
 forts were gallantly defended by General 
 Maury, but were taken within less than 
 two weeks. The city was evacuated 
 April 11, 1865. The XJuion troops en- 
 tered the next day, ignorant that Lee had 
 177 
 
Mobile.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [MOBILll 
 
 surrendered three days before, and that 
 the Confederacy was dissolved. An ex- 
 plosion, which took place in the north 
 end of the city on the 25th of May fol- 
 lowing the oooupatiou, destroyed 12 en- 
 tire squares of buildings, besides doing 
 much damage in adjacent portions of the 
 city. 
 
 Mobile is pleasantly situated on a 
 level, sandy plain which rises on the west 
 bank of the Mobile Kiver, immediately 
 above its entrance into the bay, and 30 
 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The city 
 extends along the river-bank upward of 
 two miles east and west, and nearly three 
 miles north and south, and is divided Into 
 seven wards. Population about 35,000. 
 The plateau is elevated 15 feet above the 
 highest tides, and commands a fine view 
 of the river and bay, from which it re- 
 ceives refreshing breezes. The numerous 
 obstructions and shallowness of the chan- 
 nel at low water render navigation not 
 only difficult but hazardous for vessels 
 drawing more than seven feet of water. 
 They cannot come directly up the bay to 
 the city, but pass up Spanish River six 
 miles round a marshy island into Mobile 
 River, and down this a short distance to 
 the wharves. As a cotton-mart and place 
 of export for this great staple. Mobile 
 ranks next in importance to New Orleans. 
 In 1850 the tonnage of the port was up- 
 ward of 25,000 tons ; in 1860 it had m- 
 creased to 37,000. The city is supplied 
 with excellent water, brought a distance 
 of two miles, and thence distributed 
 through the city. On Mobile Point is a 
 light-house, the lantern of which is 55 
 feet above the sea-level. ^oH Morgan 
 (formerly Port Bower), and JfoH James, 
 opposite Dauphin Island, mounting 69 
 guns at the time of the attack, command 
 the entrance of the harbor. Spanish 
 Fort and Fort Blakely, and Batteries 
 Gladden, Tracy, Mcintosh,- and Huger, 
 are passed on the way up the Tensas 
 River from Mobile to Pollard and Mont- 
 gomery. Large numbers of sailing-ves- 
 sels ply between Mobile and New Orleans, 
 the ports on the Gulf of Mexico, and the 
 Atlantic coast. A daily line of steamers 
 run to New Orleans by way of Lakes 
 Borgne and Pontohartrain ; likewise up 
 the Alabama River to Montgomery and 
 other points. 
 178 
 
 Mobile has many fina private resi- 
 dences, but few buildings of a public 
 character which would interest the vis-' 
 itor. Cotton is still king in Alabama; 
 and Mobile, as her chief city and com- 
 mercial emporium, is mainly devoted to 
 the receipt, storage, and shipment of this 
 wonderful product. 
 
 Chvemment Street is the finest avenue 
 and favorite promenade of the city. Fiib- 
 lic Square, between Dauphin and St. Fran- 
 cis Streets, is also a place of much resort. 
 Both are adorned with live-oaks and oth- 
 er shade-trees. The lofty dome of the 
 Academy building, and the spires of the 
 several church edifices on Government 
 Street, afford a pleasing relief to the eye 
 accustomed to dwell upon the dark-green 
 foliage of the oak-trees which shade its 
 whole length. The Otistom-Howse, at the 
 comer of Royal and St. Pranois Streets, 
 is the finest, largest, and most costly pub- 
 lic edifice in the city. It was built of 
 granite, and cost $260,000. The Theatre, 
 MmwApal Buildings, and Markets, are on 
 Royal Street. The 5a«fo Hovse, the 
 largest hotel in the city, presents an im- 
 posing fa9ade of painted brick, immedi- 
 ately facing the Custom - House. The 
 somewhat imposing ruin on the west 
 side of Royal Street, nearly opposite the 
 city market, has given place to a fine new 
 building now in course of construction. 
 
 Odd-Fellows' Hall, on Royal Street, and 
 Temperance Hall, comer of St. Michael 
 and St. Joseph Streets, are conspicuous 
 buildings. 
 
 Among the religious and charitable in- 
 stitutions of Mobile the most prominent 
 are the Catholic Cathedral (Immaculate 
 Conception), on Claiborne Street be- 
 tween Dauphin and Conti Streets ; Christ 
 Church (Episcopal), northwest comer of 
 Church and St. Emanuel Streets ; First 
 Presbyterian Chwrch, northwest corner of 
 Government and Jackson Streets ; and 
 the Catholic Male and Female and Protes- 
 tant Orphan Asylums, both situated with- 
 in a short distance of the business por- 
 tion of the city. Mobile possesses nu- 
 merous public schools, and a large number • 
 of benevolent and other societies. Mobile 
 College, on Government, near Ann Street, 
 is a flourishing institution. 
 
 Spring EiU is a pleasant suburb and 
 retreat six miles west of the city. The 
 
SlATIOHS.] 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 [West Point. 
 
 Boman Oatholic College, oommcnoed in 
 1832 under the direction of Bishop M. 
 Portier, ia located here. The former 
 building was 123 feet in length, sur- 
 mounted by a tower. Two additions, 
 each 126 feet in length, have since been 
 added, making the entire length 376 feet. 
 It contains a library of nearly 8,000 vol- 
 umes, and a valuable collection of instru- 
 ments, etc. A statue of the Virgin Mary, 
 brought fixim Toulouse, France, stands in 
 the rear of the building. The institution 
 is under the management of the Jesuits, 
 and has accommodation for upward of 200 
 students. It is reached by the St.-Fran- 
 cis Street cars. 
 
 The CMf Shell Hood affords a pleasant 
 drive, about nine miles in length, along 
 the shore of the bay. 
 
 The city possesses several good res- 
 taurants, and at any of them the trav- 
 eller may enjoy as good cooking as any- 
 where in the South. The Sallle House 
 is the leading hotel, almost the only one 
 worthy the name ; a really first - class 
 hotel being one of the many " wants " of 
 the city, and one which we hear there is 
 some likelihood of being soon supplied. 
 
 MOUTE I. 
 
 MOBILE TO WEST POINT, GEORGIA. 
 Via Mobile & Montgojnery and Western BaU- 
 
 Stations : — Mobile ; Tensas, 22 miles ; 
 Perdido, 43 ; Pollard, 72 ; Sparta, 99 ; 
 Greenville, 141 ; Letohatchee, 164 ; Mont- 
 gomery (connects with Selma & Meridian 
 Railway, and steamers on Alabama River), 
 186 ; Chehaw, 227 ; OpeUka, 250 ; Cus- 
 seta, 263 ; West Point (connects with 
 Atlanta & West Point Railway), 274. 
 
 Moliile IS already described (see p. 
 177), and there are no other stations which 
 will interest the traveller till we come to 
 
 Oreenville (141 miles), which is a 
 thriving little place, the capital of Butler 
 County, with a popijation of nearly 1,000. 
 
 Montgomery (186 miles) is the 
 capital of the State, and the second city 
 in point of size and commercial impor- 
 tance. It is situated on the Alabama 
 River, 400 miles, by water, northeast of 
 MobUe. It was laid out in 1817 by An- 
 drew Sezter, of Boston, and was former- 
 
 ly known as New Philadelphia. The 
 State capital was moved here from Tus- 
 caloosa, in 1847. It was named Mont- 
 gomery after the lamented General Rich- 
 ard Montgomery, who fell at Quebec 
 The original State-House was destroyed 
 by fire December 14, 1849, and the_ 
 present structure erected in 1851, at a 
 cost of about $75,000. It occupies an 
 elevated position on Capitol Hill, at the 
 head of Market Street, four squares east 
 of the Court Square, and, though of small 
 size, is an imposing structure. From the 
 gaUery of the dome, which surmounts the 
 roof, an extended view of the city and 
 adjacent country is obtained. Consider- 
 able interest attaches to Montgomery as 
 the capital of the Confederate Govern- 
 ment during four months, commencing 
 February 4, 1861, and terminating with 
 its final removal to Richmond, in May of 
 the same year. The city has suflfered 
 severely by fire ; first, in December, 
 1838, and again on the occasion of the 
 evacuation of the town by the Confed- 
 erates, April 11, 1865, when the •cotton- 
 warehouses, containing 80,000 bales of 
 cotton, were destroyed. Seven days after- 
 ward the arsenal, railway depots, and 
 foundery, were destroyed by the Federal 
 troops. Next to the Capitol, the promi- 
 nent buildings are the Episcopal, Baptist, 
 and Presbyterian churches. Theatre build- 
 ing, Court-House, and Exchange Hotel, 
 besides several private residences. The 
 city is lighted with gas, and supplied 
 with good water from Artesian wells in 
 the centre of the city. Population 10,- 
 000, and increasing. Two miles south- 
 east of the city commences what is 
 known as the prairie-region. 
 
 Montgomery is connected directly by 
 river and rail with Mobile and New Or- 
 leans ; also by rail with Atlanta, Colum- 
 bus, and all points north and east. The 
 South & North Alabama Railway, com- 
 pleted in 1872, connects it directly with 
 Nashville, Memphis, and Louisville. The 
 Exchange Hotel is the best. 
 
 Opelika. (250 miles) is a flourish- 
 idg little town at the junction of the 
 branch road to Columbus, Georgia. 
 
 ■West Point (274 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing town in Troup County, on both sides 
 of the Chattahoochee River, at the junc- 
 tion of the Western Railway with the At 
 179 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR, 
 
 [Stations; 
 
 lanta & West Point Railway, described 
 as RoBTB IX., in the chapter on Georgia. 
 It has an actire trade, and is the depot for 
 the cotton exported from the surrounding 
 counties, 
 
 BOUTE II. 
 
 MOBILE TO COLUMBUS, XT. 
 Via Motile & OMo Baihca/i/. 
 
 Stations: — Mobile (connects with va- 
 rious railways) ; Whistler, 6 miles ; Kush- 
 la, 11 ; ChunchuUa, 19; Beaver Meadow, 
 26 ; Citronelle, 33 ; Deer Park, 44 ; State 
 Jjine, 63 ; Winchester, 78 ; Waynesboro', 
 83 ; Shubuta, 97 ; De Soto, 104 ; Quitman, 
 109 ; Enterprise, 120 ; Meridian (connects 
 with Alabama & Chattanooga, Alabama 
 Central, and Vioksburg & Meridian Rail- 
 ways), 135 ; Narkeeta (branch to Gaines- 
 ville), 164 ; Artesia (branch to Columbus), 
 220; Muldon (branch to Aberdeen), 240 ; 
 Corinth(connects with Memphis & Charles- 
 ton Railway), 329 ; Jackson (connects 
 with Mississippi Central), 386 ; Hum- 
 boldt (connects with Louisville & Mem- 
 phis Railway), 402 ; Troy (connects with 
 Memphis & Paducah Railway), 441 ; Co- 
 lumbus, Kentucky (connects with St. 
 Louis & Iron-Mountain Railway), 472. 
 
 This is the most important railroad 
 that radiates from Mobile, but the first 
 63 miles only, from Mobile to the State 
 line of Mississippi, lies within the State of 
 Alabama. The remainder traverses Mis- 
 sissippi, Tennessee, and Kentucky, and 
 brings Mobile into very direct connection 
 with the great Northern system of rail- 
 ways at Cairo, Illinois. 
 
 Mol>ile has already been described. 
 {See p. 177.) 
 
 "W^liistier (6 miles) is an insignifi- 
 cant little station in the suburbs of Mo- 
 bile. 
 
 Citronelle (83 miles) is a small 
 postal village in Mobile County, in the 
 midst of a productive region. 
 
 State TAa.e (63 miles) is the point 
 where the Mobile & Ohio road crosses 
 the boundary-line into Mississippi. For 
 northward continuation of this route, see 
 chapter on Mississippi (p. 186.) 
 
 180 
 
 MOXTTE III. 
 
 MOBILE TO NEW OBLEANS. 
 Via Mem Orleans, MoTnle & Tetcas Bail/imy 
 
 Stations: — ^New Orleans ; Lee, 9 miles ; 
 Micheaud, 13 ; Chef Menteur, 20 ; Lake 
 Catharine, 26 ; Rigolets, 81 ; Lookout, 
 86 ; Grand Plain, 89; Toulme, 45; Bay 
 St. Louis, 62 ; Henderson's Point, 64 ; 
 Pass Christian, 68 ; Scott's, 63 ; Missis- 
 sippi City, 71 ; Harrison's, 73; Biloxi, 80 ; 
 Ocean Springs, 84; Belle Fontaine, 90 ; 
 West Paacagoula, 97; East Pascagoula, 
 100; Murray's, 107; Grand Bay, 116; 
 St. Ehno, 121 ; Fowl River, 127 ; Webb's 
 Landing, 131 ; Mobile (connects with the 
 Mobile & Ohio Railway for St. Louis and 
 Chicago ; and for Cincignati and the 
 East from Humboldt, Tenn., via Louis- 
 ville ; also with the Mobile & Montgom- 
 ery Railway), 140. 
 
 This, too, is a highly-important line, 
 but, as in the case of the Mobile & Ohio, 
 only a small portion of it lies within the 
 State of Alabama. It runs directly along 
 the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, but, 
 though the adjacent country is flat, and 
 presents few salient features, the abun- 
 dance and variety of the vegetation are 
 in a high degree characteristic of South- 
 ern scenery, and make the trip an inter- 
 esting one for the tourist. Webb's Land- 
 ing, St. Elmo, Grand Bay, and Summit, the 
 only stations before the Louisiana bound- 
 ary is crossed, are villages of no import- 
 ance, beyond the fact that they are 
 stopping-places for the trains. 
 
 MOUTH ir. 
 
 SELMA TO DALTOW, GA. 
 Via Sdma, Borne & Dalton Baihoay. 
 
 Stations : — Selma (connects with Ala- 
 bama Central Railway ; also with steam- 
 ers to Montgomery and Mobil^ ; Bums- 
 ville, 9 miles ; Plantersville, 22 ; Maples- 
 ville, 32; Randolph, 40; Ashby, 49; 
 Briarfield, 61 ; Montevallo, 65 ; Calera 
 (connects with South & North Ala- 
 bama Railway), 62 ; Shelby Spring, 67 ; 
 Columbiana, 73 ; Wilsonville, 81 ; Chil- 
 dersburg, 90 ; Alpine, 99 ; Talladega, 
 109 ; Munford, 120 ; Oxford, 130 ; Blue 
 Mountain, 136 ; Jacksonville, 146 ; Pa- 
 
Sglma.] 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 [SlAIIONS. 
 
 tona, 158; Ladiga, 160; Pryor'a, 173 j 
 Cave Springs, 180 ; Rome (connects with 
 Home ((Jeorgia) Railway), ig^ ; Plainville, 
 209 ; Sugar Valley, 221 ; Dalton (connects 
 with Bast Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia 
 Railway, and Western & Atlantic Rail- 
 way), 236. 
 
 Selma, in Dallas County, is on the 
 Alabama River, 70 miles below Mont- 
 gomery. The Alabama Central RaUvray 
 connects at this point ; also steamers to 
 Montgomery and Mobile. Selma is sur- 
 rounded by a rich and prosperous dis- 
 trict, has an active business, and is grow- 
 ing very rapidly. Its population in 1870 
 was 6,484. On April 2, 1865, Selma was 
 the scene of severe fighting between the 
 Federals under General Wilson, and the 
 Confederates finder General Forrest. The 
 latter was defeated and taken prisoner, 
 with 3,000 of his men, and Selma was 
 captured and partially burned. 
 
 PlantersTille (22 miles) is a mi- 
 nor post-village in Perry County, and 
 Maplesville (32 miles) is another of the 
 same character in Bibb County. 
 
 nSontevallo (55 miles) is a small 
 hamlet in Shelby County ; and 
 
 Calera (62 miles) is the point of 
 junction with the South & North Ala- 
 bama Railway, which commences at De- 
 catur on the Memphis & Charleston Rail- 
 way, and runs southward 97 miles to 
 Montgomery. 
 
 Sbelby Spring's (67 miles) is in 
 Shelby County, and is the seat of valu- 
 able sulphur-springs, which are known 
 throughout the State. The Shelby Iron- 
 Works, among the most important in 
 the State, are near here. 
 
 Talladega. (109 miles) is the capi- 
 tal of Talladega County, and a flourishing 
 town. It contains a court-house, several 
 respectable church edifices, and some 
 fine stores ; and the old plank-road, from 
 Montgomery to the Tennessee River, pass- 
 es through the place. ' The State institu- 
 tion for the deaf and dumb is located 
 here. Population m 1870, 1,933. 
 
 Oxford (130 miles) is a, thriving 
 postal village in Benton County, and, 
 since the completion of the railway, is 
 progressing very rapidly. Oxford Fur- 
 nace, near here, is an important industrial 
 establishment. 
 Jacl£SonTllIe (145 miles) is a 
 
 flourishing town, capital of Calhoun 
 County. It is situated on a beautiful 
 eminence in the Tallasahatchee VaUey, 
 which commands a fine view of an adja- 
 cent mountain - range. Population, in 
 1870, 1,000. A railroad is projected 
 from Jacksonville to Atlanta, Georgia. 
 
 Gave Springy, Oa. (ISO milesV 
 a flourishing village in Floyd County, is 
 the seat of the State asylum for the deaf 
 and dumb, and has several excellent high- 
 schools. The name is derived from an 
 extensive cave and a mineral spring in 
 the vicinity. 
 
 Rome, Oa. (197 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Floyd County, is a prosperous city 
 at the confluence of the Etowah and 
 Oostenaula, which form the Coosa River. 
 It is situated on several picturesque hiUs, 
 which command an extensive view of 
 mountain-scenery. Rome was chosen as 
 the county-seat in 1834, and was incor- 
 porated as a city in 1847. Steamboats 
 of moderate size can ascend the Coosa 
 River as far as this place, and there is a 
 short branch road to Kingston on the 
 Western & Atlantic Railway. Rome was 
 occupied by General Sherman's troops af- 
 ter the battle of Resaca, in April, 1864, 
 and several important founderies, rolling- 
 mills, etc., were destroyed. Rome has a 
 population of about 3,000. 
 
 E>alton, Oa. (236 miles), has al- 
 ready been described in the chapter on 
 Geoboia. (8ce p. 150.) 
 
 MOUTE V. 
 
 8ELMA TO MEBIDIAN, MISS. 
 Via Alaba/ma Central BaUioay, 
 
 SiATiOisrs ; — Selma (connects with Sol- 
 ma, Rome & Dalton Railway, and with 
 steamboats to Montgomery and Mobile) ; 
 Junction (connects with Cahaba, Marion 
 & Greensboro' Railway), 14 miles ; Belle- 
 vue, 23 ; Uniontown, 30 ; Fawnsdale, 35 ; 
 Demopolis (connects with steamers for 
 Mobile, and points on the Tombigbee 
 River), 50 ; Coatopa, 66 ; Leo's, 74 ; 
 York, 80 ; Meridian (connects with Mo- 
 bile & Ohio and Vicksburg & Meridian 
 Railways), 107. 
 
 SeLma has been described in Eoutk 
 IV. 
 
 181 
 
JuitCTION.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Tuscaloosa, 
 
 Jimctlou (14 luilea) is the point 
 where the Sdma, Marion S Memphis 
 RaUway branches off. This road is fin- 
 ished 48 miles to Greensboro', which, 
 with Marion, are the two principal sta- 
 tions. 
 
 Marion is a thriving town of 2,600 
 inhabitants, the capital of Perry County. 
 It is the seat of Howard College, a Bap- 
 tist institution, and has two female acad- 
 emies, and several churches. 
 
 Oreensboro' is a still larger town 
 of exceptional prosperity. Trade is very 
 active, and Greensboro' promises to be- 
 come one of the most important places 
 in Central Alabama. 
 
 IJiiioiitOfrn (30 miles) is a post- 
 village, of no importance, in Perry Coun- 
 ty- 
 
 Demopolis (60 miles) is a flourish- 
 ing town in Marengo County, on the Tom- 
 bigbee River, just below the mouth of 
 the Blacli: Warrior, and connects with the 
 Cahaba, Marion & Greensboro' Railway. 
 It has a large trade, and is the chief 
 depot for the cotton exported from the 
 county, the capital and labor of which are 
 almost entirely devoted to the cultivation 
 of that commodity. Demopolis is health- 
 fully situated, and is said to be a very 
 pleasant place of residence. Population, 
 1,639. 
 
 Yorlf (80 miles) is a small station at 
 the junction of the Selma & Meridian 
 with the Alabama & Chattanooga Rail- 
 ways. 
 
 iMeridian, Miss. (107 miles), 
 is described in Route I. of Mississippi. 
 (See p. 187.) 
 
 ROUTE n, 
 
 CnATTASOOOA, TENK., TO MEBIDIAS; 
 MISS. 
 
 Via Alabama & Ohatkmooga Sailway. 
 
 Stations : — Chattanooga (connects 
 with Nashville & Chattanooga, Western 
 & Atlantic, and East Tennessee & Geor- 
 gia Railways) ; Wauhatchie, 6 miles ; 
 Wildwood, 9 ; Morganville, 12 ; Trenton, 
 18 ; Dademont, 23 ; Rising Fawn, 26 ; 
 Cloverdale, 28 ; Sulphur Springs, 32 ; 
 Eureka, 34; Valley Head, 40; Hollo- 
 man's, 46 ; Fort Payne, 51 ; Brandon's, 
 56; PortervUle, 61; Collinsville, 65; 
 182 
 
 (ireenwood, 74 ; Reese's, 82 ; Attalla, 
 87 ; Enterprise, 91 ; Steele's, 95 ; Ash- 
 ville, 102; Caldwell, 109; Springville, 
 118; Trussville, 131; Elyton, 144; 
 Jonesboro', 155; Tannebill, 167; Green 
 Pond, 170 ; Earrer's Mill, 174 ; Vance's, 
 178; Clements, 183; Kennidale, 191; 
 Tuscaloosa, 198; Maxwell's, 204; Car- 
 thage, 213 ; Stewart's, 220 ; Akron, 223 ; 
 Eutaw, 233; Haysville, 239; Boligee, 
 243; Epps's, 260; Livingston, 269; 
 Hooks's, 268 ; York (connects with Sel- 
 ma & Meridian Railway), 269 ; Cuba, 274 ; 
 Kewanee, 279 ; Toomsuba, 283 ; Bus- 
 sell's, 290; Meridian (connects with 
 Vicksburg & Meridian and Mobile & 
 Ohio Railways), 295. 
 
 Although both the terminal points are 
 in other States, the larger^ part of this 
 railway lies within the limits of Alabama. 
 It is an important road, and forms part 
 of one of the regular through-routes used 
 by travellers in making the Southern 
 tour. 
 
 Chattanooga, Xenn., is de- 
 scribed in Route III. of Tennessee. (See 
 page 218.) 
 
 Xrenton(18 miles) is asmall postal 
 village of Jackson County. 
 
 Asbifille (102 miles) is a prosper- 
 ous Uttle town, with an active trade, the 
 capital of St. Clair County. The county 
 contains extensive beds of bituminous 
 coal which have been mined to an incon- 
 siderable extent. Iron also abounds, and 
 this section of Alabama will probably 
 become in time a great manufacturing 
 region. 
 
 Elyton (144 miles) is a small village, 
 capital of Jefferson County. Eight miles 
 from here are the Irondale Iron-works, 
 which are among the largest in the State. 
 
 Jonesboro' (155 miles) is also in 
 Jefferson County. It is a thriving little 
 place, and contains a male and female 
 seminary. 
 
 Xnscaloosa (198 miles), capital 
 of the county of the same name, is on 
 the left bank of the Black Warrior River, 
 at the head of steamboat navigation. 
 Until 1847 it was the capital of the State, 
 and is still one of the most important 
 towns in Alabama, noted for its Uterary 
 institutions as well as its active trade. 
 It is the seat of the University of Ala- 
 bama, established in 1831, and once pre- 
 
Caeihage.] 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 [Flokence. 
 
 Bided over by the celebrated Commodore 
 M. F. Maury. The buildings of the uni- 
 versity stand on commanding ground, 
 about half a mile from the river, and are 
 very handsome, having cost upward of 
 $150,000. The president's house alone 
 is said to have cost $35,000. The State 
 Lunatic Asylum is located here, and 
 there are also a handsome court-house, 
 many churches, a United States land- 
 office, and several academies. The 
 manufacture of cotton and iron is exten- 
 sively carried on in the vicinity, and large 
 quantities of cotton are shipped by steam- 
 boat to Mobile. The old plank-road from 
 Montgomery to the Tennessee River runs 
 through Tuscaloosa. Population in 1860, 
 3,989; in ISW, 1,689. Eotel: Mansion 
 House. 
 
 Ca.rtb.a,ge (213 miles) is a small 
 post village in Tuscaloosa County ; and 
 
 Entaw (233 miles) is a pleasant 
 town, capital of Greene County, situated 
 three mUes west of Black Warrior Eivcr. 
 The adjacent country is one of the most 
 fertile and healthy portions of the State, 
 and Eutaw is surrounded by a commu- 
 nity of rich planters, who reside here for 
 the social and educational advantages 
 which the place affords. There are two 
 female seminaries and several respect- 
 able church edifices. Population in 
 1810, 1,920. 
 
 IjiTxngston (239 miles), capital of 
 Sumter County, is on the Tugaloo or 
 Suckemochee Creek, and is a flourishing 
 little place. 
 
 ITorlc (269 miles) has already been 
 referred to as the point of junction be- 
 tween the Alabama & Chattanooga and 
 the Selma & Meridian Railroads. 
 
 Cuba, (274 miles) is on the boundary- 
 Ime between Alabama and Mississippi ; 
 and 
 
 meridian (296 miles, is described 
 m KonTE I. of Mississippi. {See page 
 187.) 
 
 MOUTJE rii. 
 
 CRATTANOOGA TO MEMPHIS. 
 
 Via Memphis & Charleston BaOmay. 
 
 Stations :— Chattanooga (connects with 
 
 Western & Atlantic, and East Tennessee 
 
 & Georgia Railways); Stevenson (con- 
 
 nects with Nashville & Chattanooga 
 Railway), 37 miles ; Bellefonte, 60 ; Paint 
 Rook (crossing of Winchester & Alabama 
 Railway), 76 ; Huntsville, 97 ; Madison, 
 106 ; Decatur (connects with Nashville & 
 Decatur Railway, and with steamboats on 
 Tennessee, Ohio, and Mississippi Rivers), 
 121; Courtland, 140; Tuscumbia, 164; 
 Cherokee, 180 ; Burnsville, 202 ; Corinth, 
 2.16; Pocahontas, 234; Saulsbury, 251; 
 Grand Junction (junction of Mississippi 
 Central Railway), 267 ; Moscow, 270 ; 
 Bailey, 289 ; Memphis (connects with 
 Memphis & Louisville, and Mississippi & 
 Tennessee Railways), 309, 
 
 Chattanoog^a is described in 
 chapter on Tennessee. 
 
 Ste-v^enson. (37 miles), a thriving 
 town in Jackson County, is the junction 
 between the Chattanooga & Nashville 
 and the Memphis & Charleston Railways. 
 
 Paint Rock (76 miles) is a small 
 station on the Paint Rock River, which 
 flows near here into the Tennessee. 
 
 Uuuts-ville (97 miles) is a beau- 
 tiful mountain-town, capital of Madison 
 County. It contains some handsome 
 buildings, among which are the court- 
 house, which cost $45,000, and the bank, 
 a stone edifice, with an iron portico, 
 which cost $80,000. There are several 
 churches, a United States Land-Office, 
 and two female seminaries. Population, 
 in 1870, 4,907. 
 
 Decatur (121 miles) is a prosper- 
 ous village in Morgan County, on the left 
 bank of the Tennessee River. The Nash- 
 vUIe & Montgomery Railway crosses here, 
 and an active business is done. 
 
 Xuscumltia (164 miles) is a pleas- 
 ant town in Franklin County, one mile 
 south of the Tennessee River. Steam- 
 boats ascend the river as far as Tuscum- 
 bia, in the higher stages of the water 
 There is a spring at this place issuing 
 from a high fissure in the rock ; it is said 
 to discharge 20,000 cubic feet per min- 
 ute, forming a large stream which flows 
 into the Tennessee River between two 
 and three miles below. A severe battle 
 was fought here December 13, 1864, in 
 which the Confederates were routed, and 
 the town captured. 
 
 Florence, five miles from Tuscum- 
 bia, is reached by a branch railway. It 
 is considered the head of navigation on 
 183 
 
COEINIH.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Katdsal Bridoe. 
 
 the Tennessee River, although boats'ply 
 above the Muscle Shoals. The fine 
 bridge across the river at this point, 
 which cost $160,000, was destroyed 
 during the late war. The Muscle Shoals 
 are an extensive series of rapids. The 
 descent of the water here is 100 feet in 
 the course of 20 miles. The neighborhood 
 is a famous resort of wild duclis and geese, 
 which come in great flocks in search of 
 the shell-fish, from which the rapids derive 
 their name. Boats cannot pass this part 
 of the Tennessee except at times of very 
 high water. A canal was once built 
 around the shoals, but it has been aban- 
 doned, and is falling into decay. There 
 are two large factories on Cypress Creek 
 three miles below the town. Shoal Creek, 
 also, nine miles distant, gives motion to a 
 cotton-factory. 
 
 Corintb, Miss. (216 miles), is de- 
 scribed in RoniE I. of Mississippi. [See 
 page 18Y.) 
 
 Mcmpliis (309 miles) is described 
 in chapter on Tennessee. (See page 
 221.) 
 
 The foregoing routes describe all the 
 important railroads in Alabama, but there 
 are two or three small lines which have 
 not yet been mentioned. One of these 
 extends from Girard, which is a prosper- 
 ous town on the Chattahoochee River, 
 just opposite Columbus, to Troy. This 
 is the first section of the JUobile <fc Girard 
 Sailway, which will traverse the central 
 portion of the State, and connect Mobile 
 with Columbus, Ga. 
 
 Another is tlie Selma & Onlf Railway, 
 completed to Pineapple, 40 miles south 
 of Selma. The stations are Pleasanton, 
 Allenton, and Pineapple. 
 184 
 
 THE HILL BESIOir. 
 The upper part of Alabama is pictuw 
 resquely broken by theAUeghanies, which 
 end their long journey hereabouts. In 
 the northeast extremity of the State there 
 are many fine landscape passages. 
 
 The JVickajack Cave enters 
 the Raccoon Mountain a few miles above 
 Chattanoogfi and the ' Lookout Mountain, 
 Tennessee, and immediately fin^s its way 
 into Georgia. A magnificent rocky arch 
 of some eighty feet span forms the mouth 
 of the cavern, high up in the mountain- 
 side. This cave is said to have been the 
 headquarters of the leader of a band of 
 negroes. He was known by the name 
 of "Nigger Jack," hence the name of 
 the cave. 
 
 The Natmra.1 Bridg^e, in Walker - 
 County, is thought by some travellers to 
 be more curious than the celebrated 
 scene of the same kind in Virginia. Many 
 wild and romantic groups lie among the 
 hills in the same county, which are the 
 highest south of the mountains. 
 
 Mineral Springs abound in the upper 
 part of Alabama. The Blount Springs, 
 in Blount County, near the Black War- 
 rior River, are much resorted to ; so also 
 are the Bladen Springs, in Choctaw 
 County, in the western part of the State, 
 near the line of the Mobile & Ohio 
 Railway. ,Iu Franklin County (see Tns- 
 cuubia) is a spring which discharges 
 20,000 cubic feet of water per minute. 
 It forms a considerable brook, which 
 enters the Tennessee two and one half 
 miles below. There are valuable sulphur- 
 springs in Shelby and Talladega Coun- 
 ties. The route to the Shelby Springs is 
 via Columbiana, on the Alabama & 
 Chattanooga River Railway. 
 
Mississippi.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 [Mississippi. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 Mississippi, like Alabama, was Erst 
 visited by Europeans at the time (1541) 
 when the Spanish expedition bore the 
 banner of De Soto through the great belt 
 of forest swamps which lie upon the 
 Mexican Gulf, from the palm-covered 
 plains of Florida on the east, to the far- 
 off floods of the mighty "Father of 
 Waters," on the west. The enmity of 
 the Indians and other obstacles prevented 
 any permanent occupation of the new 
 country at this period. In 1682 La Salle 
 descended the Mississippi River, and vis- 
 ited the territory now embraced in this 
 State. Two years after, he set out again 
 for the region, with a resolute band of 
 colonists, but the venture failed before 
 it was fairly begun, various misfortunes 
 preventing his ever reaching his desti- 
 nation. Iberville, a Frenchman, made 
 the third attempt at a settlement, but 
 with no better success than his predeces- 
 sors met with. A beginning was, how- 
 ever, at length accomplished by Bienville 
 and a party of Frenchmen. This expe- 
 dition settled in 1'716 at Fort Eosahe, 
 now the city of Natchez. A dozen years 
 later (1728), a terrible massacre of the 
 new-comers was made by their jealous 
 Indian neighbors, which checked, but 
 did not stay, the " course of empire." 
 Other sanguinary conflicts with the ab- 
 origines took place in 1736, '39, and '52, 
 with the same final result — the defeat 
 and devastation of the Indian tribes, and 
 the triumph of the invading whites. The 
 territory fell into the possession of the 
 British crown upon the conclusion of the 
 Peace of Paris, in 1763. The strength 
 of the new colony was augmented about 
 this period by portions of the dispersed 
 Acadian communities of Nova Scotia; 
 and soon after by colonists from the New 
 England territories, by way of the Mis- 
 sissippi and Ohio Rivera. In 1798 the 
 
 colony was organized as a territory, Ala- 
 bama forming a portion thereof. The 
 history of Mississippi, as a State, began 
 December 10, 1817. It was the third 
 State to withdraw from the Union in the 
 secession movement, the ordinance hav- 
 ing passed the Legislature January 9, 
 1861. 
 
 Much of the area of Mississippi is 
 occupied, by swamp and marsh tracts. 
 There is within her territory, between the 
 mouth of the Yazoo River and Memphis, 
 in Tennessee, a stretch of this description, 
 covering an area of nearly 7,000 square 
 miles. It is sometimes a few miles broad, 
 and sometimes not less than a hundred. 
 These low portions of the State are sub- 
 ject to inundation at the time of fresh- 
 ets, and great are the cost and care neces- 
 sary to protect them, as well as all the 
 lands of a similar character lying along 
 the Mississippi. Banks (levees) are built 
 along the river-shores to restrain the 
 floods, but sometimes a breach (crevasse) 
 occurs, resulting in great damage to 
 property, and no little risk to life. Where 
 the country is not thus occupied by 
 swampy or marshy stretches, it sweeps 
 away in broad table-lands, shaped into 
 grand terraces, or steps, descending from 
 the eastward to the waters of the river. 
 The steps are formed by two ranges of 
 bluffs which sometimes extend to the 
 river-shores, and rise abruptly in preci- 
 pices of fifty and even a hundred feet 
 perpendicular height. These bluffs are 
 features of great and novel attraction to 
 the voyager on the Mississippi River. 
 
 The climate of Mississippi htis the 
 same general characteristics as the other 
 Southern States, passing from the tem- 
 peratures of the torrid zone, southward, 
 to more temperate airs above ; unlike 
 Alabama, however, and the Southeastern 
 States of Georgia and Carolina, it has no 
 18S 
 
PboditctSj MiiTEBAis, Exo.] SOUTHEEN TOUR. 
 
 [Statiohs. 
 
 bold mountain-landa within its area. The 
 winters here and in the neighboring State 
 of Louisiana have a temperature a few 
 degrees lower than that of the same lati- 
 tudes near the Atlantic. 
 
 Products. — The fig and the orange 
 grow well in the lower part of the State, 
 and the apple flourishes in the higher 
 hilly regions. Cotton ia the great staple 
 of Mississippi, the State being the third 
 in the Union in this product. 
 
 The soU is well adapted to the growth 
 of Indian-corn, tobacco, hemp, flax, silk, 
 and all species of grains and grasses. 
 Liye-stock is also raised to a consider- 
 able extent. 
 
 Minerals. — Mississippi has no very ex- 
 tensive mineral products ; or, if she has, 
 they have not as yet been developed. 
 Some gold has been found, but in no im- 
 portant quantity. 
 
 Most of the water-courses here are 
 tributaries of the Mississippi. They run 
 chiefly in a southwest direction, follow- 
 ing the general slope of the country. 
 Some lesser waters, in the eastern sec- 
 tions, find their way to the Gulf of 
 Mexico, as tributaries of the Pearl River, 
 in the centre of the State, and of the 
 Tombigbee and Pascagoula, in Eastern 
 Mississippi and Western Alabama. The 
 Yazoo and the Big Black River drain the 
 northwest portion of the State, and are 
 the largest tributaries of the Mississippi 
 from this State. 
 
 Among the principal resorts for tour- 
 ists are Cooper's Wells, in Hinds County, 
 12 miles west of Jackson, and Lauder- 
 dale Springs, IS miles north of Meridian, 
 both of which have valuable medicinal 
 properties. The State is divided into 
 sixty counties. Vicksburg, Natchez, 
 Columbus, and Jackson, are the largest 
 towns. 
 
 Popvlation, Wealth, etc. — The popula- 
 tion of the State in 1860 was '?91,305 ; 
 of whom 863,899 were whites, 773 free 
 blacks, 436,631 slaves, and 2. Indians. 
 In 1870, the population was 834,170, of 
 whom 444,201 were blacks. In 1860 
 the total valuation of real estate and per- 
 sonal property was $509,472,912; in 
 1870, $154,535,527. It was computed on 
 January 1, 1873, that there were 990 
 miles of railroad in Mississippi. 
 
 186 
 
 EIVEES. 
 
 The Tazoo ICiver is formed by 
 the Tallahatchee and Yallobusha Rivers, 
 which unite at Leflore, in Carroll County. 
 It is a deep and narrow stream, and slug- 
 gish in its movements. It is nearly 300 
 miles in length, exclusive of its branches, 
 and is navigable for steamboats in all 
 its course, and at all seasons, from its 
 mouth to its sources. Its way leads 
 through great alluvial plains of extreme 
 fertility, covered everywhere by lux- 
 uriant cotton-fields. Vicksburg is 12 
 miles below the union of the Yazoo with 
 the Mississippi. 
 
 The Xallabatcliee, the largest 
 branch of the Yazoo, has a Jength al- 
 most as great as that river, 100 miles of 
 which may be traversed by steamers. 
 
 The Big^ JSIack Ri-rer is some 
 200 miles long. Its course is much the 
 same as that of the Yazoo, as also the 
 character of the country which it trav- 
 erses. 
 
 The Pearl Biver pursues a devi- 
 ous course from the northeast part of the 
 State, 260 miles, to Lake Borgne, and 
 thence to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 The mississippi Kivcr is de- 
 scribed in a separate chapter. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 COLUMBUS, KY., TO MOBILE, ALA. 
 Via MoHle & OMo Railmay. 
 
 Stations: — Columbus (connects with 
 St. Louis & Iron-Mountain Railway, and 
 with steamer for Cairo); Union City 
 (connects with Nashville & Northwestern 
 Railway), 26 miles ; Troy (connects with 
 Paducah & Gulf Railway), 31 ; Trenton, 
 69 ; Humboldt (connects with Memphis 
 & Louisville Railway), 70 ; Jackson (con- 
 nects with Mississippi Central Railway), 
 87; Corinth (connects with Memphis & 
 Charleston Railway), 143 ; Rienzi, 166 ; 
 Baldwyn, 176 ; Tupelo, 193 ; Okolono, 211; 
 Muldon (connects with branch to Aber- 
 deen), 231; West Point, 260; Artesia 
 (connects with branch to Columbus, Miss.), 
 253 ; Macon, 274 ; Narkeeta (connects with . 
 branch to Gainesville), 309 ; Meridian 
 (connects with Alabama & Chattanooga 
 and Vicksburg & Meridian Railways), 337 j 
 Quitman, 363 ; Shubuta, 376 ; Citronelle, 
 
COEINTH.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 [Stations, 
 
 439; Mobile (connects with Mobile & 
 Montgomery and New Orleans, Mobile & 
 Texaa Railways), 472. 
 
 From Columbus to Corinth this route ia 
 identical with Route X of Tennessee. 
 
 Corintb (143 miles), a small village 
 in Tishemingo County, is interesting for 
 the conspicuousness with which it figured 
 in the campaign of 1862, between Gener- 
 al Halleok and General Beauregard. At 
 the opening of the campaign it was Gen- 
 eral Beauregard's headquarters, and was 
 strongly intrenched, the lines being not 
 less than 15 miles in length along the 
 Memphis & Charleston Railway, which in- 
 tersects at Corinth the Mobile & Ohio road. 
 As the two armies neared each other 
 skirmishing was incessant, and on the 
 28th and 29th of May General Halleck 
 assaulted the fortifications at Corinth, and 
 met with a temporary repulse. On the 
 night of May 29th General Beauregard 
 evacuated Corinth, leaving considerable 
 stores, and burning a part of the town. 
 
 Late in the year (October 3d to 6th) Cor- 
 inth was the scene of another terrific battle 
 between the Federal troops under Gener- 
 al Rosecrans and the Coiiederates under 
 Van Dorn. This time the Confederates 
 were the assailants, and, after a battle 
 which lasted two days, they were com- 
 pletely defeated. Some of the fiercest 
 hand-to-hand fighting of the war oc- 
 curred in this battle, and the slaughter 
 was terrific, the Confederate loss amount- 
 ing in all to nearly 10,000 men. 
 
 Xitpelo (193 miles), a small post- 
 village of Itawamba County, was the 
 point at which General Beauregard col- 
 lected the main body of his forces after 
 his retreat from Corinth ia May, 1864. 
 It is a pleasant and prosperous town. 
 
 mnldon (231 miles) is the point 
 where a short road branches ofif to Aber- 
 deen, eight miles distant. 
 
 Aberdeen is situated on the right 
 bank of the Tombigbee River, 540 miles 
 north of Mobile. It is the largest town 
 on the river, and one of the most flour- 
 ishes commercial centres in Alabama. 
 Steamboats navigate the Tombigbee reg- 
 ularly from Mobile to Aberdeen during 
 the greater part of the year, and large 
 quantities of cotton are shipped from the 
 latter every season. The adjacent coun- 
 try ia highly productive, and Aberdeen is 
 
 growuig rapidly. Population, in 1870, 
 2,022. 
 
 Artesia (253 miles) is the junction 
 of a branch road to Columbus. 
 
 Columltus is another flourishing 
 town on the Tombigbee River, 60 miles 
 below Aberdeen. It is the centre of an 
 extremely fertile planting-region, and an- 
 nually ships large quantities of cotton to 
 Mobile, with which there is regular steam- 
 boat connection all the year round. Co- 
 lumbus is a pleasant place, and contains a 
 handsome court-house, a United States 
 land-o6Sce, and several churches. 
 
 l\a.rkeeta, (309 miles) connects 
 with branch to Gainesville, Alabama, de- 
 scribed in chapter on Alabama. 
 
 meridian (337 miles) is quite a 
 railroad centre, connection being made 
 here with the Alabama & Chattanooga 
 and the Ticksburg & Meridian Railways. 
 It was captured by General Sherman on 
 February 16,1864, and according to his 
 own account his troops accomplished 
 there " the most complete destruction of 
 railways ever beheld." Upward of 60 
 miles of railway were utterly destroyed. 
 
 The Lauderdale Swings, sulphur and 
 chalybeate, are in Lauderdale County, 
 near the line of the Mobile & Ohio Rail- 
 way, 18 miles north of Meridian. The 
 State Orphan Home, for the support and 
 education of the poor cliildren of de- 
 ceased Confederate soldiers, in course 
 of erection, is situated near the same 
 place. 
 
 Quitman (363 miles) is a pretty 
 little village of no great importance, 
 capital of Clarke County. 
 
 mobile (472 miles) is described in 
 chapter on Alabama. (See page 177.) 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 BUMBOLDT, TENS., TO NEW OB- 
 LEANS, LA. 
 
 Via Mobile <& Ohio, Mississippi Central, a/nd 
 New Orleans, Jackson S Great Northern 
 Railways. 
 
 Stations. — Mobile & Ohio Railway : 
 Humboldt to Jackson, 18 miles. 
 
 Stations. — ^Mississippi Central Rail- 
 way: Humboldt to Bolivar, 46 miles; 
 Grand Junction (connects with Memphis 
 & Charleston Railway), 64 ; Holly Springs, 
 89 ; Abbeville, 109 ; Water Valley, 135 ; 
 187 
 
EoLLT Springs.] 
 
 SOUTHERN 'TOtJE. 
 
 [Gkbnada. 
 
 Grenada (connecta ^th Mississippi & 
 Tennessee Railway), 164 ; West's, 208 ; 
 Vaughan's, 239 ; Canton (connects with 
 New Orleans, Jackson & Great Northern 
 Railway), 252. 
 
 Stations. — ^New Orleans, Jackson & 
 Great Northern Railway: Canton to 
 Jackson (connects with Vicksburg & 
 Meridian Railway), 23 miles ; Byram, 
 32 ; Crystal Springs, 48 ; Beauregard, 
 67; Bogue Chitto, 87; Magnolia, 108; 
 Tangipahoa, 127 ; Tickfaw, 148 ; Man- 
 chac, 169 ; Frenier, 182 ; New Orleans, 
 206 miles from Canton, and 458 miles 
 from Humboldt. 
 
 From Humboldt to Grand Junction 
 this route is described in Route X of 
 
 Holly Spring's (89 miles) is a 
 beautiful village in the northern part of 
 the State, with a remarkably healthy and 
 picturesque situation. — The Chalmers 
 Institute and St. Thomas's Hall for boys, 
 the Franklin Female College, and the 
 Holly Springs Female Institute, are 
 among the most conspicuous institutions. 
 Being on the main through-line of travel 
 between New Orleans and the North, and 
 near the line of the Memphis & Charles- 
 ton Railway (Grand Junction), it is a 
 most advantageous point for tourists to 
 stay and make up their routes. The 
 vicinity abounds in attractive scenery 
 and pleasant drives. It was the scene 
 of active operations during the late war. 
 The city was occupied by Union troops 
 from General Halleck's army, June 17, 
 1862. On the 20th of December, the 
 post, under the command of Colonel 
 Murphy, surrendered to General Tan 
 Dom, of the Confederate army. 
 
 Orenada. (164 miles) is pleasantly 
 gituated on the Yallobusha River, at the 
 head of steamboat navigation. It con- 
 tains a United States land-oflSce, and sev- 
 eral churches. Connection is made here 
 with the Mississippi & Tennessee Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Canton (252 miles) is the capital 
 of Madison County, and a very attractive 
 village. The Mississippi Central ends 
 here, and the New Orleans, Jackson & 
 Texas Railway begins. 
 
 Jackson (23 miles from Canton) is 
 the capital of the State. It is situated 
 on Pearl River, which is eometimes as- 
 188 
 
 cended as far as Jackson in small- boats, 
 though the navigation is almost de- 
 stroyed by the accumulation of sand-bars 
 and drift-wood. The State Capitol, the 
 Executive Mansion, the Penitentiary, 
 Lunatic Asylum, and a United States 
 land-office, are among the most promi- 
 nent buildings. Churches are numerous, 
 and some of them rather handsome. 
 Jackson was captured by General Grant 
 on May 14, 1863, after a battle with Gen- 
 eral Johnston, in which the Confederates 
 were defeated. All the railroads, bridges, 
 factories, workshops, and arsenals, were 
 destroyed, and it is only within the past 
 year or two that damages have been 
 fully repaired. Business is active now, 
 and the population in 1870 was 4,234. 
 Hotel : £owman Souse. 
 
 Cooper's Well, 12 miles west of Jack- 
 son, is noted for its mineral waters. 
 
 magnolia. (108 miles) is a pretty 
 little post-village of Yazoo County. 
 
 IWeTT Orleans, TLiO,., is de- 
 scribed in chapter on Louisiana. (See 
 page 192.) 
 
 MOUTH III. 
 
 MMMPBIS, TUSJT., TO NEW OBLEANS. 
 
 Via Mississippi <& Ttmnessee, Mississippi O&n^ 
 trdl, a/fid J^etc Orlewns, Ja<^<m t& Great 
 
 Stations : — Memphis (connects with 
 Memphis & Louisville, and Memphis & 
 Charleston Railways) ; Hernando, 22 
 miles ; Senatobia, 37 ; Sardis, 50 ; Bates- 
 ville, 69 ; Oakland, 78 ; Grenada (con- 
 nects with Mississippi Central Railway), 
 100. 
 
 Itlemphis is described in Roitte VI 
 of Tennessee. {See page 221.) 
 
 Bernando (22 miles), the capital 
 of De Soto County, is a flourishing little 
 town. The county buildings are large, 
 and thtre are four seminaries. 
 
 Oakland (78 miles) is a post-office 
 town of Yallobusha County. 
 
 Crrenada (100 miles) is the point 
 of junction with the Mississippi Central. 
 From this point the remainder of the 
 route is identical with Route II. 
 
VlCKSBCKO. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 [ViCKSDrRO. 
 
 MOTTTE ir. 
 
 YICKSBTJUG TO MERIDIAN. 
 Yia Vic&ebnrg <& MeridUm Bailtuay. 
 
 Stations: — ^Vicksburg (connects with 
 North Louisiana & Texas KaUway, and 
 with steamboats up and down the Mis- 
 sissippi River); Edwards, 18 miles; 
 Bolton, 28 ; Jackson (connects with New 
 Orleans, Jackson & Great Northern Rail- 
 way), 46; Brandon, 59; Morton, 79; 
 Forest, 90; Newton, 109; Chunky, 122; 
 Meridian (connects with Selma & Merid- 
 ian and Mobile & Ohio Railways), 140. 
 
 Tickslrarg is upon the Mississip- 
 pi, 400 miles above New Orleans — the 
 most important city between New Or- 
 leans and Memphis. It is situated about 
 half-way between those two points, on a 
 succession of hills and valleys, called the 
 old Walnut Hills. Vicksburg was com- 
 menced about forty years ago by a gen- 
 tleman named Vlck, from whom the city 
 took its name, and who then owned 
 nearly all the site of the town. Mem- 
 bers of the Tick family are still living 
 here. The approach to the landing is on 
 a hill-side, and the route to the heart of 
 the city is a continual ascent. Main 
 Street was formerly the business portion, 
 but now there is hardly a business-house 
 on it. When the town was burnt down 
 fluring the war, the course of improve- 
 ment took a different direction, and went 
 up higher. The population is about 
 15,000. Being opposite the mouth of 
 the Tazoo River, Vicksburg does a con- 
 siderable trade in packets with the coun- 
 try west, and railroad connections make 
 the place the natural outlet for products 
 of the Yazoo River country. The Vicks- 
 burg, Shreveport & Texas Railroad will 
 give the city a connection with the 
 Southern Pacific road, thus throwing 
 the city in the line of traffic both ways, 
 while the Jackson branch of the Charles- 
 ton trunk establishes easy communica- 
 tion with Memphis, and the Mobile & 
 Ohio junction gives a rail connection 
 with Mobile and New Orleans. 
 
 The St. Louis Packet Company have 
 placed at the landing one of the largest 
 elevators on the Mississippi. Two iron- 
 founderies, several lumber and saw mills, 
 and two sash - factories, comprise the 
 
 principal manufacturing interests of the 
 place, while a very fine, large wharf-boat 
 makes a valuable and convenient step- 
 ping-stone and storehouse at one portion 
 of the landing. Hotel : Prentiss House. 
 
 Skge of Vichshurg. — The city was cap- 
 tured from the Confederates during the 
 war, after a protracted siege, by General 
 Grant, July 4, 1863. Having spent sev- 
 eral weeks of fruitless effort against 
 Vicksburg upon the north, General Grant 
 marched down the west side of the Mis- 
 sissippi, while the gunboats, running the 
 batteries, passed below the city and fer- 
 ried the army across. Hastening for- 
 ward, he defeated the Confederate ad- 
 vance under Pemberton, at Port Oihson. 
 Learning that General Joseph E. John- 
 ston was coming to Pemberton's assist- 
 ance, he rapidly pushed between them to 
 Jackson, that, while holding back John- 
 ston with his right hand, with his left 
 he might drive Pemberton into Vicks- 
 burg, and thus capture his whole army. 
 Pursuing this design, he defeated John- 
 ston at Jackson, and then, turning to the 
 west, drove Pemberton from his position 
 at Champion Hills ; next at Big Black 
 River ; and, in seventeen days from the 
 time he landed, Pemberton's army was 
 shut up within the intrenchments at 
 Vicksburg. Here two desperate assaults 
 failed. The Union troops then threw up 
 intrenchments. Mines and counter-mines 
 were dug. Not one of the garrison 
 could show his head above the works 
 without being picked off by the watchful 
 riflemen. A hat, held above the port- 
 hole, was pierced in two minutes with 
 fifteen balls. Shells reached all parts of 
 the city. The inhabitants burrowed in 
 caves to escape the iron storm which 
 rained upon them. At last the garrison, 
 worn out by forty-seven days in the 
 trenches, surrendered on the anniversary 
 of the Declaration of Independence. On 
 the fall of Vicksburg, Port Hudson, 
 lower down the Mississippi, which had 
 been besieged by General Banks for 
 many weeks, surrendered. The Missis- 
 sippi River was now open to the Gulf, and 
 the Confederate States were cut in twain, 
 
 Jackson (45 miles) is described in 
 Route II. 
 
 Ifleridian (140 miles) is described 
 in RoDTE I. 
 
 1S9 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHEEK TOUR. 
 
 [Natchez. 
 
 UOUTE r. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS TO MOBILE. 
 Via New Orleans, Mobile & Texaa BaUwa/y. 
 
 Stations: — New Orleans to Lee, 9 
 miles ; to Micheaud, 12 ; Chef Menteur, 
 19 ; Lake Catharine, 26 ; Eigoleta, 31 ; 
 Lookout, 36 ; Grand Plain, 39 ; Toulme, 
 44; Bay St. Louis, 62; Henderson's 
 Point, 54; Pass Christian, 6T; Scotts, 
 63 ; Mississippi City, '70 ; Harrison's, 73 ; 
 Biloxi, 79 ; Ocean Springs, 83 ; West 
 Pasoagoula, 96 ; East Pascagoula, 100 ; 
 Murray's, lOT; Grand Bay, 115; Sum- 
 mit, 120; Fowl Rirer, 125; Webb's 
 Landing, 131 ; Mobile (connects with the 
 Mobile & Ohio Railway for St. Louis and 
 Chicago ; also with the Mobile & Mont- 
 gomery Railway for all points East and 
 North), 140. 
 
 We'W Orleans is described fully 
 in chapter on Louisiana. (See page 192.) 
 190 
 
 As we said in the chapter on Alabama, 
 there are no striking points in this route, 
 which runs along the shore of the Gulf, 
 though the traveller will be interested by 
 the general aspects of the scenery and 
 the tropical profusion of vegetation. 
 
 Mississippi City (70 miles) is 
 the capital of Harrison County, and is a 
 flourishing town, situated directly on the 
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 Pascagoula. (96 miles) is a 
 flourishing city in Jackson County, at the 
 mouth of Pascagoula River. Here is 
 Pascagoula Bay, a beautiful sheet of 
 water, separated by low, narrow islands 
 from the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 From this point the route is the same 
 as Route III. of Alabama. 
 
 IVatcIiez, which next to Vicksburg 
 is the most important city in the State, 
 and several other towns, are fully de- 
 scribed in the chapter on the Mississippi 
 RiTEB. {See page 249.) 
 
Louisiana.] 
 
 LOUISUIsU. 
 
 \ [Louisiana. 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 Louisiana is one of the most interest- 
 ing States in the TTmon, not only on ac- 
 count of the romantic incidents of its 
 early history, but for the peculiar features 
 of its landscape, and its unique social 
 character and life. It is bounded on the 
 north by Arkansas and Mississippi (from 
 which it is separated by the Mississippi 
 and Pearl Elvers) and the Gulf of Mex- 
 ico ; south by the Gulf of Mexico, and 
 west by Texas, from which it is partly 
 separated by the Sabine River. It has 
 an extreme length from east to west of 
 about 292, and a breadth of 250 miles, 
 including an area of 41,225 square miles, 
 or about 26,384,000 acres, of which only 
 2,045,607 were improved in 1870, or 
 rather less than one-tenth of the entire 
 surface of the State. 
 
 The traveller passing westward from 
 Mississippi, and looking upon the face of 
 the Great Kiver, will recall the bright 
 hopes of De Soto, when he, too, so gazed 
 with delighted wonder ; then he will 
 muse upon that hapless destiny which 
 gave the gallant explorer a grave beneath 
 the very floods which he was the first to 
 find and enter upon with such exultant 
 anticipations. Then he will remember 
 the visit of La Salle to the mouth of the 
 river, in 1691 — next, the attempted 
 settlement, in 1699, under the brave lead 
 of Iberville ; then comes the enterprise 
 of Crozart, to whom the country was 
 Ranted by Louis XIV., in 1712; next 
 comes its history from 1717, while ia 
 possession of the famous French finan- 
 cier John Law, and his company of rash 
 speculators, with all the incidents of the 
 story of the brilliant but fleeting " Mis- 
 sissippi Bubble ; " next the restoration 
 of the territory to the French crown, its 
 transfer to Spain in 1762, its retrocession 
 to France in 1800, and its final acquisi- 
 tion by the United States in 1803, when 
 
 this Government purchased it for $11,- 
 500,000, and the further payment of cer- 
 tain claims of American citizens against 
 the Government of France. Of the his- 
 tory of this State in its participation in 
 our national trials, and especially of the 
 memorable event of the battle of New 
 Orleans, and its still more recent occupa- 
 tion by the Federal forces under General 
 Butler, we shall speak by-and-by. 
 
 The ordinance of secession was passed 
 by the State Legislature, January 26, 1861. 
 
 Louisiana in no part of its territory 
 reaches a greater elevation than 200 feet 
 above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, 
 while very much of the southern region 
 is so low that it becomes inundated at 
 high water. Marshes extend from the 
 coast; next come the low prairie-lands 
 which approach the central parts of the 
 State; above, the country west of the 
 basin of the Mississipai grows broken 
 and hilly. In the extreme northwest is a 
 marshy tract of 50 miles in length and 
 six in breadth, full of small lakes, made 
 by the interfacings of the arms of Bed 
 Kiver. It is estimated that an area of 
 between 8,000 and 9,000 square miles, 
 lying respectively upon the Mississippi 
 and Red Rivers, is subject to inundation 
 annually. 
 
 About three-fifths of the whole area of 
 the State is alluvial and diluvial ; the rest 
 is occupied by the tertiary formation, and 
 contains coal and iron, ochre, salt, gyp- 
 sum, and marl. In the vicinity of Har- 
 risonburg, near the northeastern line of 
 1*6 State, and among the freestone hills 
 which rise hereabouts precipitously to a 
 height of eighty and one hundred feet, 
 large quartz crystals have been found, 
 and quantities of jasper, agates, corne- 
 lians, sardonyx, onyx, feldspar, crystal- 
 lized gypsum, alumine, chalcedony, lava, 
 meteoric stones, and fossils. 
 
 191 
 
Nsvr Obleans.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTJE. 
 
 [New ORMANg. 
 
 The exhalations from the marshes in 
 the long, hot summers affect the atmos- 
 phere, and make these districts not only 
 unapproachable to strangers, but danger- 
 ous to the acclimated, at the season when 
 the especial features of the landscape 
 may be seen in their greatest glory. 
 
 Cotton and sugar-cane are the great 
 products of this State. The most pro- 
 ductive district of the State is a belt of 
 land called the " Coast," lying up ajid 
 down the Mississippi in the neighborhood 
 of New Orleans. It consists of that part 
 of the bottom, or alluvion, of the Missis- 
 sippi, which commences with the first 
 cultivation above the Balize, about 40 
 miles below the capital, and extends 
 about 150 miles above it. 
 
 This belt on each side of the river is 
 secured from overflow by an embank- 
 ment called the " levee." We shall have 
 occasion to speak of it in our explora- 
 tions through the city of New Orleans. 
 
 The bays and lakes, formed by expan- 
 sions of the rivers in the marsh-lands 
 near the coast, make a marked feature 
 in the landscape of Louisiana, as Lakes 
 Pontchartrain, Borgne, Maurepas, etc. 
 Some of these waters we shall recur to 
 again when we reach New Orleans. 
 
 Except the Mississippi and the Eed 
 Rivers, of which the reader will find ac- 
 counts elsewhere in our volume, the 
 streams in Louisiana do not oifer very 
 great attractions to the traveller. 
 
 Population, etc. — In 1860 the popula- 
 tion of the State was 708,002 ; of whom 
 351,656 were whites, 18,547 free blacks, 
 326,728 slaves, and 173 Indians. The 
 census of 1870 gives Louisiana 732,731 
 population; of whom .364,210 were 
 ilacks. The total valuation of real estate 
 and personal property in the State in 
 1860 was $435,687,266, and in 1870 
 $250,588,610. According to the ofScial 
 returns for the year 1872, there are 539 
 miles of completed railroad in Louisiana 
 at the present time. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 New Orleans, the metropolis of the 
 Southwest, is built within a great bend 
 of the Mississippi River (whence its fa- 
 miliar name of the Crescent City), 94 
 miles from its debouchure into the Gulf 
 192 
 
 of Mexico, in latitude 29° 57'.north, longi- 
 tude 90° 8' west. It was named in honor 
 of the Duke of Orleans, Regent of Franca 
 during the minority of Louie XV. It was 
 the place selected for the seat of the mon- 
 archy meditated in the treason of Aaron 
 Burr. Great was the alarm of, the citi- 
 zens in January, 1804, at that prosped- 
 tive ilisurreotion. 
 
 It is built on land gently descending 
 from the river toward a marshy ground 
 in the rear, and from two to four feet be- 
 low the level of the river at high-water 
 mark. It is prevented from overflowing 
 the city by an embankment of earth, 
 termed the Levee, which is substantially 
 constructed, for a great distance along the 
 banks of the river. This levee is fifteen 
 feet wide and four feet high, and forms a 
 delightful promenade during the fall and 
 winter months. New Orleans is acces- 
 sible at all times by vessels of the largest 
 description coming from the ocean, and 
 its advantages of communication with the 
 upper country, and the whole valley of 
 the Mississippi, are unrivalled. The site 
 was selected by Governor Bienville in 
 1718, against much opposition, the site 
 having previously been at Bilpxi. It was 
 abandoned in 1719, a rise in the Missis- 
 sippi having inundated it. It was again 
 selected by Delorme in 1722 as the prin- 
 cipal post in the province. It then con- 
 sisted of about 100 cabins, and containel 
 a population of nearly 250. Louisiana 
 was ceded to the United States in 1803, 
 after which date the population of New 
 Orleans rapidly increased. In 1810 it 
 amounted to 24,552, having trebled in 
 seven years under the administration of 
 its new government. 
 
 We append a tabular statement, show- 
 ing the growth of population since that 
 time : 
 
 1815 82,947 
 
 1820 41,350 
 
 1825 .45,886 
 
 1830 .49,826 
 
 1840 102,191 
 
 1850 .160,000 
 
 1860 .187,000 
 
 18T0 ...191,322 
 
 The levee has been frequently broken 
 through by the river. In May, 1816, a 
 crevasse occurred about nine miles above 
 New Orleans, which destroyed several 
 plantations, and inundated the rear of- 
 the city to the depth of several feet ; 
 again in June, 1844, and in 1856, and 
 finally in 1871. The dike, or levee, has 
 

 ']' (IP, 
 
 Cl' T nv 
 
 
 xii:y £iiiii.AjiB ^^ 
 
 :#^ 
 
 
 :sii3j_EiEr Minu j'iismzii^ 
 
 LOUISIANA 
 
 APPLETONS HAND BOOK of SOUTH 
 
Nktv Orleans.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [New Orleans. 
 
 been strengthened, and is now believed 
 to be strong enough to resist further en- 
 croachment. 
 
 This city is the chief cotton-mart of 
 the world. Not unfrequeutly from u. 
 thousand to fifteen hundred steamers 
 and flat-boats may be seen lying at the 
 levee, that have floated down the stream 
 hundreds of miles with the rich produce 
 of the interior country. Steamboats of 
 the largest class may be observed arriv- 
 ing and departing almost hourly; and, 
 except ia. the summer months, at its 
 wharves may be seen hundreds of ships 
 and other sailing-craft from all quarters 
 of the globe, landing the productions of 
 other climes, and receiving cargoes of 
 cotton, sugar, tobacco, lumber, provi- 
 sions, etc. Indeed, nothing can present 
 a more busy, bustling scene than exists 
 hero in the loading and unloading of ves- 
 sels and steamers, with hundreds of drays 
 transporting the various and immense 
 products which come hither from the 
 West. 
 
 Besides cotton, a vast amount of other 
 commodities, as sugar, tobacco, flour, 
 pork, etc., is received at New Orleans, 
 and thence sent abroad. BesMes its ex- 
 ports, New Orleans has a large import 
 trade of coffee, salt, sugar, iron, dry- 
 goods, liquors, etc., the yearly value of 
 which exceeds $17,000,000. 
 
 The holiday season, which includes 
 Christmas and New- Year's, is the best 
 time to visit New Orleans. No city on 
 the broad continent presents such nu- 
 merous and varied attractions at this 
 festive season ; and stolid, indeed, must 
 be the stranger who is not impressed 
 with his experiences, 
 
 HOTELS AND EESTAUEANTS. 
 
 Hotels : The Si. CJmrles, bounded by 
 St. Charles, Gravier, and Common Streets, 
 is one of the institutions of New Orleans. 
 Destroyed by fire in 1850, it was rebuilt 
 by the close of 1852 at a cost of |600,- 
 000. Its predecessor, the old St. Charles, 
 was long regarded as the pride of New 
 Orleans. The present structure has ac- 
 commodation for nearly 1,000 guests. 
 
 The St. Louis, formerly known as the 
 City Exchange, is located on St. Louis, 
 between Royal and Chartres, in the 
 French quarter of the city. It was re- 
 
 opened January 10, 1866, with new fur- 
 niture, after being closed nearly four 
 years, and is now in the full tide of busi- 
 ness again. It holds the same high rank 
 as the St. Charles, and is under the same 
 proprietorship. It has again been reno- 
 vated within the past year or two. 
 
 The St. James, Magazine Street, be- 
 tween Gravier and Natchez, occupies the 
 site of the old " Banks's Arcade," a place 
 of great public resort previous to 1858. 
 It has been recently repainted and fur- 
 nished, and has accommodation for 400 
 persons. 
 
 The City Hotel, corner of Camp and 
 Common Streets, is much frequented by 
 up-river merchants and steamboat-men. 
 The rates of fare at the St. Charles and 
 St. Louis are $5 per day ; at the St. 
 James and City, |4. 
 
 Eestatieants. — New Orleans is said to 
 have the best restaurants in America, and 
 in them may be found the last remains 
 of the famous Creole cuisine of ante-war 
 times. The best are Victor's, Moreau's, 
 and John's ; but there are many other 
 good ones. 
 
 OONVETANCES. 
 
 The City Railroad system of New Or- 
 leans embraces eight main lines, travers- 
 ing the following streets : Magazine, from 
 Canal to Eighth ; Prytania, from Canal to 
 Limits ; Canal, from Monument to Ridge 
 Cemeteries ; Esplanade, from»Monument 
 to Bayou Bridge ; Dauphin, from Monu- 
 ment to U. S. Barracks ; Levee, from Cus- 
 tom-House to U. S. Barracks ; Baroune 
 Street, throughout. The aggregate length 
 of track laid in the city is 40 miles. Fares 
 range from five cents to seven cents. 
 Good carriages and hacks can be found 
 at the stands in front of the St. Charles 
 and prmoipal hotels. Fare, $2 an hour ; 
 $5 for the forenoon or afternoon. Liv- 
 ery charges are somewhat higher. The 
 best plan for strangers, especially if ac- 
 companied by ladies, is to hire a suitable 
 conveyance by the hour, and discharge 
 at the end of each trip. 
 
 OHUEOHBS. 
 
 The city contains many large, but few 
 elegant, church edifices. Among the re- 
 hgious denominations, as might be ex- 
 pected in a community so largely com- 
 193 
 
New Orleans.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [New Orleans. 
 
 posed of French, the Eoman Catholic 
 greatly predominates. There are up- 
 wards of fifty church edifices, about one- 
 half of which are'Koman Catholic. Of 
 these, the GaOiedral of Si. Zouis is the 
 most noteworthy. It stands on Chartres 
 Street, on the east side of the Place 
 d'Armea (Jackson Square), and arrests 
 the attention of the stranger by its vener- 
 able and antique appearance. It lays no 
 claim to architectural display, though 
 there are few church edifices in the Union 
 at once so imposing and impressive. 
 The foundation was laid in 1'792, and the 
 building completed in 1794, by Don Andre 
 Almonaster, perpetual regidor, and Alva- 
 rez Eeal, of the province. It was altered 
 and enlarged, in 1850, from designs by 
 De Louilly. This building is almost in- 
 separably connected with the memory of 
 the venerable Pfere Antonio de Sedella 
 (Father Antonio), curate of the parish 
 for nearly fifty years, who died in 1829, 
 and whose remains are interred here. 
 The paintings on the roof of the building 
 are by Canova and Eossi, and are fine 
 specimens of art. In the square in front 
 of this cathedral General Jackson re- 
 viewed his troops (December 18, 1814), 
 prior to his victory over the British. 
 
 The Church of the Immacvlaie Concep- 
 tion (Jesuit), corner of Baronne and Com- 
 mon Streets, is a striking edifice, in the 
 Moorish style of architecture. It was 
 commenced in 1862, and opened for wor- 
 ship by P6re Canbiaso in 1857. One 
 hundred and seventy thousand dollars 
 have been expended in its construction, 
 and the towers are still wanting to com- 
 plete it. High mass, both here and at 
 the cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sunday. 
 
 The Presbyterian Church, fronting on 
 Lafayette Square, in the Greco -Doric 
 style, is a fine edifice, much admired for 
 its elegant steeple. It was built in 1836, 
 at a cost of $65,000. It was enlarged in 
 1844, and has sittings for 1,000. 
 
 St. Patrick's, on Camp Street, north of 
 Lafayette Square, is a fine Gothic struct- 
 ure, with a tower 190 feet high. The 
 style is said to have been taken from the 
 famous minster at York, England, agree- 
 ably to the designs of the Messrs. Dakin. 
 The cost was about $100,000. 
 
 Among the Episcopal church edifices, 
 Christ's, comer of Canal and Rampart I 
 194 
 
 Streets, and Annundaiion, overlooking 
 Annunciation Square, are the most promi- 
 nent. 
 
 The Unitarian Church, comer of St. 
 Charles and Julia, St. AlphxrmOj on Con- 
 stance, and St. Mary's, on Josephine 
 Street, are new and elegant buildings. 
 The two last named are Roman CathoUc. 
 
 One of the most interesting relics of 
 the early church history of New Orleans 
 is the old Ursuline Convent and Chapel 
 on Cond6 Street. This building, of a 
 quaint style of architecture, was erected, 
 according to the Spanish inscription on a 
 marble tablet in the middle of the fa9ade, 
 in 1787, during the reign of Carlos III., 
 by Don Andre Almonaster. It is now 
 occupied and known as the Bishop's Pal- 
 ace. 
 
 St. Antoine's Chapel, at the comer of 
 Eampart and Conti Streets, was erected . 
 ' in 1826. It is generally known as the 
 Mortuary Chapel, all funeral ceremonies 
 of resident Catholics being performed 
 here. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 New Orleans is well supplied with pub- 
 lic amusements, these being esteemed as 
 among the first of human necessities. The 
 Opera-Ebuse, corner of Bourbon and Tou- 
 louse Streets, erected in 1859, is an im- 
 posing edifice. It has seats for 2,000, 
 and is fitted up in the style of the Thea- 
 tre Fran9ais, Paris. 
 
 The St. Charles, on St. Charles, be- 
 tween Poydras and Perdido Streets, occu- 
 pies the site of the former St. Charles, 
 destroyed by fire in 1842. Ben De Bar, 
 lessee. 
 
 Academy of Music, St. Charles, between 
 Perdido and Commercial Streets, built 
 in 1863. Performances day and night. 
 Spalding & Bidwell, proprietors. 
 
 Orleans Theatre, comer of Orleans and 
 Bourbon Streets. This is the oldest " Tem- 
 ple of the Drama " in the city, if not in 
 the South. It was opened in November, 
 1819. The performances are in the 
 French language. It is frequently used, 
 together with the adjoining building, for 
 balls, parties, etc. 
 
 The American, bumt July 30, 1842 ; 
 rebuilt and reopened Decembers, 1843, 
 and again destroyed by fire in 1864 ; has 
 not been rebuilt. It occupied a central 
 
New Orleans.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [New Obleans. 
 
 site on Poydras Street, near Lafayette 
 Square, now covered by an ornamental 
 cast-iron building intended for business 
 purposes. 
 
 PAEKS AND PUBtlO BQTJAEES. 
 
 Like most Southern cities, New Or- 
 leans is dotted over with numerous 
 squares, with shade-treees and gravel- 
 walks, where the lounger or pedestrian, 
 wearied with his journeyings, may draw 
 aside for retirement and rest. Since the 
 introduction of street - railroads, these 
 public squares are less resorted to than 
 in former years, when they formed the 
 most attractive feature of the place. 
 
 The New Gity Park, the largest of 
 these enclosures, and the only one having 
 any claims to be considered a " park," is 
 near the northeasterly boimdary of the 
 city, in the neighborhood of ifetarie Road 
 and Monroe Avenue. It embraces 55 
 city squares, an area equal to about 150 
 acres, and is tastefully laid out. Access 
 by the Canal Street and Kidge Road cars, 
 from the Monument. 
 
 Jackson Square, formerly known as the 
 Place d'Armes, covers the centre of the 
 river-front of the Old Town Plot, now 
 the First District. It is a place of favor- 
 ite resort. Its shell-strewn paths, its 
 beautiful trees and shrubbery, afford an 
 agreeable relief to the dust and din of the 
 busy levee and markets. The imposing 
 front of the cathedral and courts of jus- 
 tice are seen to great advantage from the 
 river-entrance of the square. The eques- 
 trian statue of General Jackson, by Mills, 
 stands in the centre. A similar statue is 
 placed in Lafayette Square, in the rear 
 of the White House at Washington. 
 
 Lafayette Square, in the Second Dis- 
 trict, bounded by St. Charles and Camp 
 Streets, is another handsome square. The 
 fine marble front of the City HaU, the 
 tapering spire of the Presbyterian Church, 
 and the massive-looking fa9ade of the 
 Odd-Fellows' Hall, present a striking ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 To the visitor and stroller in the west 
 end. Annunciation Square and Tivoli Cir- 
 cle, at the head of St. Charles Street, are 
 worthy a visit. The former has a few 
 tastefully-built private residences in its 
 immediate neighborhood. 
 
 Oireus Place {Congo Square), on Ram- 
 
 part Street, between St. Ann and St. 
 Peter. Like other public grounds in the 
 city, it is a delightful place to lounge 
 away a summer evening. It was former- 
 ly known as Congo Park, and is the 
 place where the negroes, in the " good 
 old times before the war," were accus- 
 tomed to congregrate and go through the 
 double shuffle to the favorite air of " Old 
 Virginny never tire." Being in the col- 
 ored district, it is still much frequented 
 by them, but the dancing has given place 
 to other pleasures less harmless and at- 
 tractive. 
 
 Washincfton Square, in the neighbor- 
 hood of the Elysian Fields, in the Third 
 District, is a pleasant promenade. These 
 several resorts are easily reached by the 
 street-oars from Canal Street. 
 
 pnBua BUiLwisrGS. 
 
 The Custom-House, Canal Street near 
 the levee. This noble structure is built 
 of Quincy granite brought from the cele- 
 brated quarries of Massachusetts. Next 
 to the national Capitol at Washington, it 
 is the largest building in the United 
 States. It covers an area of 87,333 su- 
 perficial feet. Its main front, on Canal 
 Street, is 334 feet ; that on Custom-House 
 Street, 252 feet ; on the new levee, 310 
 feet, and on the old levee, 29T feet. Its 
 height is 82 feet. The long-room, or 
 chief business apartment, is 1 1 6 feet by 
 90 feet, and is lighted by 50 windows. 
 Commenced in 1848, the erection of this 
 immense structure was steadily prose- 
 cuted through four successive adminis- 
 trations until the outbreak of the rebel- 
 lion, when work was necessarily sus- 
 pended. The building, it is much to be 
 regretted, has suffered severely from the 
 weather and the various uses to which it 
 has been put. A temporary roof has 
 been lately added, at a cost of $25,000 ; 
 but, far from affording adequate protec- 
 tion, it seems rather to have proved a 
 source of injury than otherwise. 
 
 The basement of this building is ap- 
 propriated to the uses of the Post-Offioe, 
 but, being both dark and damp, it is ill- 
 suited for such a purpose. The long 
 corridors which surround the main apart- 
 ment in the second story afford access to 
 the offices of the collector and surveyor 
 of the port, the collector and assessor 
 196 
 
Nbw Okleans.] 
 
 SOTTTHERN TOUH. 
 
 [New OELEAifa. 
 
 of Internal Revenue, IT. S. Marshal, and 
 other Government officers. The United 
 States courts are also located in this 
 building. It is noteworthy rather for its 
 immense size and the important interests 
 it represents than for any attraction of 
 its own. 
 
 TlieMint{U. B. Bran<A).—Tbe build- 
 ing formerly used for coining the public 
 moneys in New Orleans, and still known 
 as the Mint, is situated on what was once 
 called Jackson Square, near the former 
 site of Fort St. Charles, now known as 
 the corner of Esplanade and New Levee 
 Streets. It is built of brick, stuccoed in 
 imitation of brownstone, in the Ionic 
 style of architecture, and being 282 feet 
 in length, 108 feet deep, and three stories 
 high, presents an imposing appearance. 
 It was begun in 183S and finished in 
 183T, at a cost of $182,000. A visit to 
 the coin-room will repay the stranger. 
 On January 2S, 1861, upward of three 
 quarters of a million dollars were taken 
 from this room by a committee of citi- 
 zens headed by Governor Roman. The 
 Superintendent, M. P. Bonzano, suc- 
 ceeded in destroying the dies, and thus 
 saved the Government and the country 
 from the issue of spurious money. The 
 window, from which the flag-staff pro- 
 jected on which Mumford was hung by 
 order of General Butler, June 1, 1862, is 
 still pointed out. It is under the front 
 portico of the main building, and will al- 
 ways be an object of interest. 
 
 T/ie City Sail, at the intersection of 
 St. Charles and Lafayette (formerly He- 
 via) Streets, fronting 90 feet on the for- 
 mer and 208 feet on the latter, is a hand- 
 some marble structure in the Grecian 
 Ionic style of architecture. The muni- 
 cipal hall was formerly located on the 
 upper side of the cathedral in Jackson 
 Square, but, that building being insuffi- 
 cient for the rapidly-increasing business 
 of the city, the present structure was 
 erected and finished in 1850, since which 
 time it has been occupied for city pur- 
 poses. Here are located the mayor's 
 office, the bureaus of "Finance" and 
 "Streets and Landings," the offices of 
 the treasurer, comptroller, street commis- 
 sioner, registrar, etc. It also serves at 
 present as the official headquarters of 
 the Governor and Secretary of State. 
 196 
 
 I/yeeum Hatt, in the second story of this 
 building, is a commodious apartment, 61 
 by 84 feet, well adapted for the purpose 
 intended. The State and City Libraries 
 occupy suitable rooms in the building. 
 The grand entrance from St. Charles 
 Street is by a flight of steps 18 in num- 
 ber, of Quincy granite, of which material 
 the basement is constructed. Cost, 
 $120,000. 
 
 Odd-Fellows' EaU, a solid square edi- 
 fice on the corner of Camp and Lafayette 
 ^treets, and immediately facing the upper 
 comer of the square. It is four stories 
 high, built of brick, stuccoed and painted- 
 white, and cost $210,000. The base- 
 ment is occiapied by stores. On the sec- 
 ond, or main floor, is the concert-hall, 
 the finest in the South. It is 132 by 56 
 feet, and 85 feet high, and lighted by 
 three large chandeliers. The upper sto- 
 ries are used by the several lodges of 
 Masons and Odd-Fellows. 
 
 The Masonic HoM, on St. Charles 
 Street, at its intersection with Perdido, is 
 an imposing edifice, fronting 103 feet on 
 the former and extending back 100 feet 
 on the latter street. It was designed and 
 buUt by Gallier, a local architect of con- 
 siderable repute, in 1845, and cost, iu- 
 cludmg the land, $90,000. 
 
 The Merchcmi^ MxAange, on Eoyal, 
 south of Canal Street, was formerly a 
 place of great resort. Since the removal 
 of the Post-Office to the Custom-House 
 building, its glory has departed, and it 
 exists now in little more than name. It 
 was erected in 1835, from designs by 
 Dakia, is composed of marble, and cost 
 $100,000. 
 
 The CSfy Prisons, which comprise a 
 county jail and a police jail, are on Or- 
 leans and Ann Streets, opposite the Mar- 
 ket-Place, main entrance on Orleans 
 Street. They are three stories in height, 
 built of brick, and plastered to imitate 
 granite. The building is surmounted by 
 a belvedere, with an alarm-bell. 
 
 The Oourt-honsis are on the right and 
 left of the cathedral on Jackson Square. 
 They were constructed toward the close 
 of the last century, through the liberality 
 of the founder of the cathedral, Don 
 Andre Almonaster, and are conspicuous 
 for their style of architecture, which is 
 Tusco-Doric. 
 
Ksw O1U.EA11S.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [New Orleans. 
 
 OnAEITABLE INSTITUTIONS, SCHOOLS, 
 ETC. 
 
 There is probably no city in the United 
 States which contains so many benevolent 
 institutions, in proportion to its popula- 
 tion, as New Orleans. Among the most 
 prominent are the hospitals and Male and 
 Female Orphan Asylums. 
 
 The United States Marine Hospital, a 
 commodious brick edifice, corner Com- 
 mon and Broad Streets, in the rear of 
 the city proper, and easily reached by 
 street-cars on Canal Street. The hos- 
 pital building was formerly located in 
 Macdonough, opposite the city. It oc- 
 cupied a whole square, measuring 350 
 feet each way. It was three stories high, 
 built in the Gothic style, from designs by 
 Mondale and Reynolds. It was com- 
 menced in 1834, extended in 1844, and 
 was used for hospital purposes up to the 
 breaking out of the war, when, like many 
 other Government buildings, it suffered 
 at the hands of its enemies. It was used 
 as a powder-magazine by the Confeder- 
 ate authorities, and by them blown up. 
 Among the objects of interest in New 
 Orleans, especially worthy of notice, is 
 
 The Charily SosfHial, on Common 
 Street, between St. Mary's and Gironde. 
 It is conspicuous, not more for its great 
 size, than for the air of neatness and 
 comfort which prevails in and around it. 
 The first Hospital for Indigent Persons 
 established in the city appears to have 
 stood on Kampart, near Toulouse Street. 
 It was constructed of wood, and was 
 blown down in 1779. Another, built of 
 bdck, and completed in 1786, at a cost 
 of $114,000, was entirely consumed by 
 fire in 1810. The present fine edifice 
 was erected 1812-'14, at an expense of 
 $150,000. The attendant medical fac- 
 ulty are among the ablest in the city and 
 State. It has accommodation for 450 
 patients. 
 
 The ruins of the Town Almslumse oc- 
 cupy a prominent locale on the levee, in 
 the south end of the city. This building 
 was occupied during the war as a hospi- 
 tal, and afterward by colored troops as a 
 barracks. It was destroyed by fire Sep- 
 tember 1, 1865. 
 
 Among the prominent charities of the 
 city are, the Astjlum of St. Elisabeth, cor- 
 
 ner of Magazine and Josephine Streets, 
 and the Maison de Sante, comer of Canal 
 and Claiborne Streets. Lady visitors es- 
 pecially ought to see the interior of the 
 former institution. It is a very model 
 of neatness and good order. It was 
 erected in 1853, and is under the charge 
 of Superior Angelica and 14 sisters. 
 
 The Female Orphan Asylum, at the in- 
 tersection of Camp and Prytania Streets, 
 has accommodation for 160 children. It 
 was commenced in 1836, and finished in 
 1840, at a cost of $42,000, of which near- 
 ly one-half was the result of private sub- 
 scription. The land was donated by 
 Madame Foucher and her brother, Fran- 
 cis Soulet. 
 
 The JPoydras Female Orphan Asylum, 
 on Julia Street, founded in 1817, and the 
 Male Orplum Asylum,, in the adjoining 
 parish of Lafayette, are both flourishing 
 institutions. There are several other 
 noble charities in the city. Admission 
 by application to the Superior or Super- 
 intendent in charge. 
 
 The Workliou^es of the second and 
 third municipalities are worthy a visit 
 from those interested in moral and so- 
 cial reform, especially of youth. The 
 former was built in 1841 ; the latter, 
 which stands on Moreau Street, near 
 Piet6, the site of the old Washington 
 Market, was erected years later. Many 
 of these institutions have been consoli- 
 dated, and located at the foot of Girod 
 Street. 
 
 The University of Louisiana is on Com- 
 mon Street, near Baronne, and occupies 
 the whole front of the block. It has a 
 prosperous law school and a medical 
 school. This university was organized in 
 1849. The medical college, which stands 
 in the centre of the block, has a fa9ade of 
 100 feet. This department was established 
 in 1835. It has a large anatomical mu- 
 seum, and extensive and valuable collec- 
 tions of many kinds. The State made an 
 appropriation of $25,000 toward the pur- 
 chase of apparatus, drawings, plates, etc., 
 illustrative of the various branches of 
 medical study. The college had, in the 
 year 1859, no less than 400 students. 
 There is also a school of medicine, num- 
 bering 200 students. Built in 1836. 
 
 The public-school system of New Or- 
 leans embraces four high-schools and 38 
 197 
 
Kew Obleans.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUR. 
 
 [New Obleass. 
 
 primary and intermediate district schools 
 for the youth of both sexes, distributed 
 in every part of the city. There are also 
 18 schools for colored children. For lo- 
 cation of schools, Bumber of scholars, 
 names of teachers, and other information 
 respecting the school system of the city, 
 the reader ia referred to local directories 
 and reports of the respective boards. 
 
 One of the most attractive public 
 places of literary resort, and the only 
 one combining the essential features of a 
 news reading-room and exchange, are the 
 Merchants' E^ading-Rooms, conducted by 
 Mr. E. E. Overall, comer of St. Charles 
 and Commercial Alley. Files of the prin- 
 cipal American and European journals 
 are kept. A chess-room is attached. No 
 stranger in New Orleans should omit go- 
 ing to Overall's. 
 
 The Streets of New Orleans are, for the 
 most part, wide, well paved, and regular- 
 ly laid out, usually intersecting each oth- 
 er at right angles, and, since the war, 
 kept passably clean. The broadest is 
 Canal Street, with a width of 190|- feet, 
 with a grass-plot 26 feet wide, extending 
 in the centre through its whole length. 
 Esplanade, Bampart, and Basin Streets, 
 are similarly embellished. The houses 
 are built chiefly of brick, and are usually 
 four or five stories high. 
 
 The Libraries of New Orleans are few 
 and unimportant. The collection of books 
 forming the State Library occupies a room 
 in the upper story of the City Hall until 
 a suitable place is provided by act of Le- 
 gislature. The City Library is on the 
 first floor of the same building. It com- 
 prises about 19,000 volumes, principally 
 miscellaneous works. Admission to the 
 privileges of the Library, for non-resi- 
 dents, is by introduction. 
 
 Armory Sail, on Camp Street, occu- 
 pies the site, and part of the walls, of the 
 old Camp-Street Theatre, erected in 1822. 
 It is a fine apartment, 120 feet long, 60 
 feet wide, and 22 feet high. It was long 
 used as the armory of the Washington 
 Battalion. It is now used as an auction- 
 mart. 
 
 THE MAEKETS. 
 
 The stranger in New Orleans wiU be 
 much interested by . a visit to the mar- 
 kets. They are characteristic and nu- 
 198 
 
 merous. The principal are the vegetable 
 and meat (French) markets on the levee 
 near Jackson Square and the French 
 Cathedral. To be seen to the greatest 
 advantage, they should be visited on Sun- 
 day morning, between the hours of 8 and 
 9 o'clock. At break of day the gather- 
 ing commences — all colors, nations, and 
 tongues, commingled in one heterogeneous 
 mass. The noise, far from being un- 
 pleasant, hdwever, is musical to the 
 stranger's ears. A visit thither is thus 
 described by a well-known writer : " One 
 morning we rose early to visit the market 
 of the First Municipality, and foimd the 
 air on the bank of the Mississippi filled 
 with mist as dense as a London fog, but 
 of a pure white instead of yellow color. 
 Through this atmosphere the innumerable 
 masts of the ships alongside the wharf 
 were dimly seen. Among other fruits in 
 the market, we observed abundance of 
 bananas, and good pine-apples, for twen- 
 ty-five cents each, from the West Indies. 
 There were stalls where hot coffee was 
 selling, in white china cups, reminding us 
 of Paris. Among other articles exposed 
 for sale were brooms made of palmetto- 
 leaves, and wagon-loads of the dried 
 Spanish moss, or TWandsia. The quan- 
 tity of this plant hanging from the trees 
 in the swamp surrounding New Orleans, 
 and everywhere on the Delta of the Mis- 
 sissippi, might suffice to stuff all the mat- 
 tresses in the world. The Indiana former- 
 ly used it for another purpose — ^to ^ve 
 porosity or lightness to their builcfiig- 
 materials. When passing through the 
 stalls, we were surrounded by a popula- 
 tion of negroes, mulattoes, and quadroons, 
 some talking French, others a. patois of 
 Spanish and French, others a mixture of 
 French and English, or English translated 
 from French, and with the French accent. 
 They seemed very merry, especially those 
 who were j et-black. Some of the Creoles, 
 also, both of French and Spanish extrac- 
 tion, like many natives of the south of 
 Europe, were very dark. Amid this mot- 
 ley group, sprung from so many races, 
 we encountered a young man and woman, 
 arm-in-arm, of fair complexion, evidently 
 Anglo-Saxon, and who looked as if they 
 had recently come from the North. The 
 Indians, Spaniards, and French, standing 
 round them, seemed as if placed there to 
 
New Obibans.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [New Obleans. 
 
 remind us of the successive races whose 
 power in Louisiana had passed away, 
 while this fair couple were the represent- 
 ' atives of a people whose dominion car- 
 ries the imagination far into the future." 
 Two things strike the stranger specially 
 in his walk through the French market. 
 One is the jolly, unctuous effect of the 
 negroes, particularly the women; for 
 they seem to live habitually on " the pos- 
 sum-fat" of song, and display their 
 rounded figures in scant drapery, topped 
 by the unique Madras turban. The 
 other is the peculiar voices of the people 
 of the lower orders. Sharp, high, or loud, 
 as they may speak, the voice is seldom a 
 head one, and never nasal, and the laugh- 
 ter that bubbles out has the trickling 
 smoothness of the native syrups. Doubt- 
 less the climate causes the change, for 
 we can note it in those who have lived 
 long away from their native North or 
 West. In the limits of Frenchtown the 
 accepted language is French. It is the 
 medium, not only of social intercourse, 
 but of business, and of the administra- 
 tion of justice ; and, in many localities, 
 the stranger, losing his way or wanting 
 his toddy, would have to take refuge in 
 the language of signs. Even though this 
 is much changed since the war, there are 
 many persons born, bred, and grown to 
 old age, in New Orleans, who speak or 
 understand no word of English. 
 
 The other markets are those in Poy- 
 dras and Magazine Streets, Sf. Mary's, on 
 Thompson Street, Orleans, near the city 
 prison, and that at the head of Elysian 
 Fields. A visit to the first, however, 
 will save the stranger the trouble of 
 making further explorations. 
 
 MISOBLLANEOtrS. 
 
 The Cemeteries. — Some of these homes 
 of the dead in New Orleans are deserv- 
 ing of particular notice, both from their 
 unique arrangement and for the peculiar 
 modes of interment. Each is enclosed 
 with a brick -wall of arched cavities 
 (ovens, as they are called here), made just 
 large enough to admit a single coffin, and 
 raised, tier upon tier, to a height of about 
 twelve feet, with a thickness of ten. 
 The whole enclosure is divided into plots, 
 with gravel paths intersecting each other 
 at right angles, and is densely covered 
 
 with tombs, built wholly above-ground, 
 and from one to three stories high. This 
 method of sepulture is adopted from ne- 
 cessity, and burial wndergromid is never 
 attempted, excepting in the Potter's Field, 
 where the stranger without friends, and 
 the poor without money, find an uncer- 
 tain rest — the water with which the soil 
 is always saturated often lifting the cof- 
 fin and its contents out of its narrow and 
 shallow cell, to rot with no other cover- 
 ing than the arch of heaven. There are 
 twelve public burial-grounds in the city, 
 known respectively as Girod Street, Char- 
 ity Hospital, Odd-Fellows', Cypress Grove, 
 Greenwood, St. Patrick's, St. Joseph, St. 
 Vincent, Lafayette, St. Louis, Nos. 1 and 
 2 New St. Louis, and Hebrew Rest. Of 
 these the Cypress Grove and Greenwood 
 Cemetery, on the Metarie Ridge, at the 
 north end of Canal Street, are the best 
 worthy a visit. The cemetery of St. 
 Louis No. 1, at the intersection of Basin 
 and St. Louis Streets, contains some fine 
 monuments. Among those most con- 
 spicuous for their size and beauty, are 
 the vaults of the " Societe Fran5aise 
 de Bienfaisance," " Orleans Batallion of 
 Artillery," the "Portuguese Society," 
 and " Italian Benevolent Society." The 
 last is one of the most beautiful struct- 
 ures of its kind in the country. It is of 
 white marble, and was built in 183Y, by 
 Pietro Gualdi. St. Louis Cemetery Ko. 2 
 occupies four city squares on Esplanade 
 Street, near Bayou St. John. Other 
 cemeteries, principally Catholic, are situ- 
 ated in Lafayette and Algiers. Permits 
 to visit the cemeteries are granted at 10 
 Bank Place. Monument Cemetery, on the 
 Battle-Field, is wholly devoted to the in- 
 terment of soldiers. It was opened May 
 2, 1864, and has already 9,000 inter- 
 ments. There are two other cemeteries 
 for deceased soldiers, on the Carrolton 
 Shell Road. 
 
 The Levee, already briefly referred to 
 in our sketch, affords to the visitor one 
 of the most peculiar and characteristic 
 sights of the Crescent City. For extent 
 and activity, the scene has no equal on 
 the continent. The best point from 
 which to obtain a view of the city and its 
 environs is, the roof of the St. Charles 
 Hotel, or the tower of St. Patrick's 
 Church. "If the traveller," says Sir 
 199 
 
New Orleans.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOtJE. 
 
 [New Omeaks. 
 
 Charles Lyell, "has expected, on first 
 obtaining an extensive view of the city, 
 to see an unsightly swamp, with scarcely 
 any objects to relieve the monotony of 
 the flat plain, save the winding river and 
 a few lakes, he will be agreeably disap- 
 pointed. He will admire many a villa 
 and gardfen in the suburbs ; and, in the 
 uncultivated space beyond, the effect of 
 uneven and undulating ground is pro- 
 duced by the magnificent growth of cy- 
 press and other swamp timber, which 
 have converted what would otherwise 
 have formed the lowest points in the 
 landsflbpe into the appearance of wooded 
 eminences." The JVench began their 
 settlements on Lake Pontchartrain, be- 
 cause they found there an easy communi- 
 cation vrith the Gulf of Mexico. But 
 they fixed the site of their town on that 
 part of the great river which was nearest 
 to the lagoon, so as to command by this 
 means the navigation of the interior coun- 
 try. The pi-ivate dwellings in the suburbs 
 are many of them very charming places, 
 buried in the grateful shadow of tropical 
 leaves — the magnolia, lemon, myrtle, and 
 orange tree. 
 
 Monumenls. — ^New Orleans has two 
 monuments worthy of notice. The Clay 
 Monument on Canal Street, between St. 
 Charles and Eoyal Streets, is built of 
 granite ; the figure bears a striking re- 
 semblance to the great statesman. The 
 monument in course of erection to the 
 hero of New Orleans, on the battle-field, 
 below the city, is seventy feet high. It 
 was commenced in 1856. When com- 
 plete, it will be 140 feet in height. The 
 equestrian statue of Jackson in the Place 
 d'Armes, opposite the Cathedral, is too 
 well known to need description here. It 
 is the same met with so often in Wash- 
 ington and other cities. 
 
 Among the relics of the Spanish rule 
 in New Orleans the most interesting are 
 the Casa Manca, at the comer of Bien- 
 ville and Old Levee Streets. It was once 
 the courtly residence of Bienville, the 
 first governor of Louisiana (1710). It re- 
 mains as originally built, and in a good 
 state of repair. The first or street floor 
 is now occupied as a grocery-store ; the 
 upper portion as a boarding-house. The 
 old Spanish building at the comer of 
 Eoyal and Bumaine Streets should also 
 200 
 
 be visited by those who would see what 
 New Orleans was " more than a hundred 
 years ago." Jackson's Headquarters are 
 in the upper part of the house No. 86 
 (old number 104) Royal Street. General 
 Jackson occupied these quarters during 
 his stay in the city from December 2, 
 1814, to a few days before the battle. 
 The Old Spanhh Court-Home, where 
 Jackson was arraigned for contempt of 
 court, and fined $1,000, is still another 
 object of interest connected with the his- 
 tory of this remarkable man. It is at 
 269 Eoyal Street. 
 
 Walking through the French quarter 
 of the city, near the comer of Orleans 
 and Dauphin Streets, not far north of 
 the Cathedral, the stranger wiU observe a 
 fine date-palm, 30 feet high, growing in 
 the open air. This tree is fully one hun- 
 dred years old, for Pfere Antoine, a Ko- 
 man CathoKc priest, who died (1829) at 
 the age of 80, recorded that he planted 
 it himself when he was young. In his 
 will he provided that they who suc- 
 ceeded to this lot of ground should for- 
 feit it if they cut down the palm. 
 
 Capture of the City. — ^Early in the 
 spring of 1862, Captain Parragut, with a 
 fleet of 44 vessels, carrying 8,000 troops 
 under General Butler, attempted to take 
 New Orleans. The mortar-boats, an- 
 chored along the bank of the Mississippi 
 under the shelter of the woods, threw 
 thirteen-inch shells into Ports Jackson 
 and St. Philip for six days and nights, 
 with little effect. Farragut then bold- 
 ly resolved to carry the fleet past the 
 defences of the river. A chain, sup- 
 ported on hulks and stretched across the 
 river, closed the channel. An opening 
 broad enough to admit the passage of 
 the gunboats having been cut through 
 this obstruction, at three o'clock on the 
 morning of April 24th they advanced, 
 and poured grape and canister into the 
 forts at short range, receiving in return 
 heavy volleys from the forts and batter- 
 ies on shore. After running the gauntlet, 
 encountering shot, shell, and the flames 
 of fire-rafts, they next engaged with the 
 steam-battery Louisiana and the iron- 
 plated ram Manassas and other vessels 
 engaged in the defence. After a desperate 
 struggle, twelve of the Confederate flotilla 
 were destroyed. The fleet then steamed 
 
Net ObIiEans.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [New Obliahs. 
 
 up to New Orleans, which lay helpless 
 under the Union guns. The forts being 
 now threatened in the rear by the army, 
 Boon surrendered. On May 1, 1862, Gen- 
 eral B. r. Butler landed and took pos- 
 session of the city. 
 
 Captain Farragut (afterward promoted 
 to admiral) then ascended the river, 
 taking possession of Baton Kouge and 
 Natchez, and, running the batteries at 
 Vicksburg, joined the Union fleet above. 
 
 TicraiTT. 
 
 The BaUh-FidcL, formerly known as 
 the Plains of Ohalmette, is an object of 
 much interest to all American travellers 
 and is generally first visited. It lies four 
 miles and a half south of Canal Street, 
 and may be reached either by carriage 
 along the levee, or by the street-cars. It 
 is washed by the waters of the Mississip- 
 pi, and surrounded by cypress-swamps 
 and cane-brakes. The action took place 
 January 8, 1815, between the British 
 troops, under General Pakeuham, and the 
 Americans under Jackson, the former 
 suffering a signal defeat. Pakenham was 
 approaching the city by the way of Lakes 
 Borgne and Fontcharti-ain, at the time 
 of this terrible repulse. His loss in killed 
 and wounded was nearly 3,000, while the 
 Americans had but seven men killed and 
 six wounded. A marble monument 70 
 feet high, and yet unfinished, occupies a 
 suitable site overlooking the ground, and 
 serves to commemorate the victory. 
 
 The Monumental Cemetery, or Soldiers' 
 Burying-Ground, occupies the southwest 
 corner of the field. In returning to the 
 city a good opportunity is afforded for 
 visiting the Uniied Slates Barracks, which 
 front the river about three and a half 
 miles below the city. The purchase of 
 the property, which embraces two acres 
 front, and 40 acres in depth, was made 
 through Adjutant G. M. Dreme, in 1830. 
 The works were begun in February, 
 1834, and completed December, 1835, at 
 a cost of $182,000. The quarters of the 
 commandant occupy the centre of the 
 front, those of the staff and company 
 being on either flank. The hospital 
 storehouse, corps de garde, and post 
 magazine, are in the rear of the parade- 
 ground. One of the buildings on the 
 right of the parade-ground was fired by 
 
 the shells from Admiral Farragut's fleet 
 on their way up to the city (April 25, 
 1862). 
 
 The [/rsuline Convent is passed a short 
 distance north of the Barracks. It has 
 an imposing front of nearly 200 feet, and 
 commands a fine view of the river. It 
 was founded in 1826. A nunnery and 
 chapel are attached to the convent. The 
 former has accommodation for forty sis- 
 ters of the Ursuline Order. Admission 
 to the convenl; is granted only during 
 vacation. 
 
 Lake PorUchartrain, five miles north 
 of the city, is famous for its fish and 
 game. It communicates with Lake Mau- 
 repas on the west, and, through the Eigo 
 lets, with Lake Borgne and the Gulf of 
 Mexico on the east. By this latter route 
 the daily steamers leave New Orleans for 
 Mobile. The lake is 40 miles in length 
 and 24 miles in width. It is from 16 to 
 20 feet deep, and abounds in fish. It is 
 reached by the Lake Railway every hour 
 through the day. The swamps which 
 lie between the city and the lake, and 
 are traversed by the railway, are covered 
 with a thick growth of cypress and other 
 trees peculiar to this locality. At the 
 railway terminus is a hotel (the Washing- 
 ton) for the accommodation of visitors. 
 Those particular about their sleeping ac- 
 commodation, and their associations, 
 would do well to return to the city by 
 the last train, which usually leaves at 
 seven o'clock. The Shell Road afibrds 
 an agreeable drive to Lake Pontchartrain 
 for those who prefer that kind of loco- 
 motion. This road lies along the margin 
 of the canal, and was once the finest and 
 smoothest road in the country. During 
 the military occupation of the city, a 
 railroad-track was laid through it, wliich 
 has greatly marred its beauty and excel- 
 lence. A movement is on foot to restore 
 it. Half-way between the city and the 
 lake is the celebrated Metarie race-track. 
 Buffet and restaurant adjoining. 
 
 Lafayette, until 1852 under a distinct 
 government, now forms the Fourth Dis- 
 trict of New Orleans. 
 
 Jefferson City is a pleasant suburb of 
 New Orleans, lying immediately west of 
 the city. It is reached in 30 minutes by 
 car from Canal Street. 
 
 CarroUon, in Jefferson County, six miles 
 201 
 
DONALDSONVULE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUB. 
 
 [S1AIIOH8. 
 
 from Canal Street, has many fine public 
 gardens and private residences. The 
 route beyond the city of New Orleans is 
 through cultivated fields, gardens, and 
 well-shaded pastures. It has a good 
 race-course. Railway cominunication 
 with New Orleans every hour. 
 
 Crreenville is at the western terminus 
 of the city car-route. The United Slates 
 HospUal buildings located here are wor- 
 thy a visit. , 
 
 Algiers, opposite to New Orleans, has 
 extensive dry-docks and ship-yards. 
 Communication by ferry. Macdonough, 
 on the same side, was once conspicuous 
 for its fine U. S. Hospital, one of the 
 largest structures in the State. It was 
 destroyed during the late war, and is now 
 located in the city. Oretna, two miles 
 above Macdonough, and nearly opposite 
 Lafayette, is a pretty, rural spot, abound- 
 ing in pleasant, shady walks. 
 
 MOUTE I. 
 
 SEW ORLEANS TO DONALDSONYILLE. 
 Via New Orleans, Mobile & Texas MwUway. 
 
 The railways of touigiana are not of 
 much importance as yet, though many 
 great enterprises are projected, and some 
 are actually under way. 
 
 The New Orleans, Mobile & Texas 
 Railway is intended eventually to extend 
 westward from New Orleans to Houston. 
 It is now completed only as far as Don- 
 aldsonville, 63 miles. 
 
 Stations : — Algiers, Jeflferson, St. 
 James, and Donaldsonville. 
 
 Algiers, just opposite New Orleans, 
 has already been described as one of the 
 suburbs. 
 
 I>oiialdsoiiTiUe (63 miles) is the 
 capital of Ascension County. It is a 
 flourishing town and river-port, situated 
 on the right bank of the Mississippi 
 River, at the head of Bayou la Fourche. 
 The railway will shortly be carried far- 
 ther westward. 
 
 Brasbear is a post-village of St. 
 Mary's County, on the Atchafalaya River. 
 It is reached by a railroad from New Or- 
 leans, which branches off from the New 
 Orleans, Mobile & Texas, at Jefferson. 
 2D2 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 SUBEVEPOUT TO JLONGTIEW. 
 Via Texas Paxifia Baltwa/g. 
 
 Stations : — Shreveport ; Greenwood, 
 16 miles ; Jonesville, 26 ; Marshall (con- 
 nects with stages to all points in North- 
 em and Middle Texas), 42 ; Hallville, 66 ; 
 Longview, 66. 
 
 SlireTeport is a thriving town, 
 capital of Caddo County, on the right 
 bank of the Red River, about 660 miles, 
 by water, northwest of Baton Rouge, and 
 about 30 miles below the " Great Raft," 
 which is tbe limi t, of navigation for large 
 steamboats. It is advantageously situ- 
 ated for trade, being in the midst of a 
 rich planting-region, and the only acces- 
 sible point on the west side of the river 
 for more than 100 miles. About 40,000 
 bales of cotton are received here annual- 
 ly, and immense numbers of cattle from 
 Texas are shipped to the New Orleans 
 market. It is a handsome place, with 
 three churches and many finff stores. 
 There are, also, several steam -mills. 
 Population, 700. 
 
 marshall, Texas (42 miles), 
 capital of Harrison County, is a prosper- 
 ous post-village about 250 miles north- 
 east of Galveston. It contains, besides 
 the county-buildings, a college and sev- 
 eral hotels. The surrounding country is 
 fertile, and rather thickly Settled ; and 
 the trade of Marshall is active. 
 
 liOngvicw (66 miles) is the pres- 
 ent terminus of the road, and a pleasant 
 little place. All these towns are on the 
 line of the Southern Pacific Railway, and, 
 when that great highway is finished across 
 the continent, will doubtless assume new 
 importance as the surrounding country 
 fills up. 
 
 MOUTE III. 
 
 riCKSBUBG TO MONROE. 
 Yta North ZouMana S Teieas BaftmOji. 
 
 Stations: — Delta (connects, by ferry, 
 with Vicksburg & Meridian Railway) ; 
 Tallulah, 17 miles ; Waverly, 30 ;, Delhi, 
 36 ; Rayville, 51 ; Monroe (connects with 
 stages to Shreveport), 72. 
 
 Delta is an insignificant little place 
 
Tallcah.] 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 [Baton Korsx. 
 
 on the Mississippi Eiver, just opposite 
 Vicksburg. 
 
 Vallnali (17 miles) is tlie county- 
 seat of Issaquena County, 
 
 Delbi (35 miles) is a small village 
 of Carroll County. 
 
 Monroe (72 miles), a post-village, 
 capital of Washita County, is pleasantly 
 situated on the east side of the Washita 
 Eiver. Steamboats navigate the river 
 both above and below this point. This 
 entire road is part of the projected rail- 
 road from Vicksburg to Shreveport. 
 
 Baton Kongo. — Hotei, 
 House. This city, the former capital of 
 Louisiana, is upon the Mississippi, 129 
 miles above New Orleans. It is built 
 upon the first of the famous bluEfs of the 
 
 great river seen in ascending its waters, 
 and is thought to be one of the most 
 healthy places in this part of the coun- 
 try. The city contains a College and a 
 United States Arsenal and Barracks. 
 The name of Baton Rouge is said to 
 have been thus derived : When the place 
 was first settled, there was growing on 
 the spot a cypress (a tree of a reddish 
 bark) of immense size and great height, 
 denuded of branches. Oue of the set- 
 tlers playfully remarked that it would 
 make a handsome cane. From this small 
 jest grew Baton Rouge (red cane). The 
 Deaf and Dumb Asylum and Feniteniiary 
 are conspicuous buildings. Baton Rouge 
 is interesting as having been the home 
 of Zachary Taylor. \Sce chapter on 
 Mississippi River.) 
 
 203 
 
Texas.] 
 
 SOUTHEKN TOUB. 
 
 rXEXAa. 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 The area of Texas is 237,504 square 
 miles. The broad and fertile region 
 comprised within the limits of the State 
 is an empire in itself, and possesses all 
 the elements of the highest material pros- 
 perity. Notwithstanding its stormy his- 
 tory, there is at this hour no part of the 
 Southern country which is making more 
 rapid progress in the arts of civilization. 
 The lawless deeds which, in former days, 
 gare to Texas so evil a reputation, might 
 be referred principally to the fugitives 
 from justice who sought asylum there, or 
 to the ruined and reckless men left be- 
 hind by the successive wars through 
 which the country has passed. These 
 desperadoes are, however, a short-lived 
 race, and they are fast disappearing. On 
 the other hand, a large immigration has 
 recently taken place of intelligent and in- 
 dustrious citizens from other Southern 
 States, as well as from the North and 
 from Europe. Texas is now inhabited 
 mainly by an orderly and law-abiding 
 population, and the people are anxious 
 to encourage white immigration of a 
 good class, and to enforce the laws for 
 the repression of crime. 
 
 Texas is one of the youngest of the 
 great family of the United States. In the 
 year 1821, the inducements held out to 
 settlers in this region by the Government 
 of Mexico, to whom the territory at that 
 period belonged, caused a great rush of 
 emigration thither from the United States. 
 This new and hardier population had 
 grown so numerous, by the year 1832, as 
 to quite absorb and destroy the original 
 feeble spirit of the land under Mexican 
 rule, and to embolden the exotic popular 
 tion to seek the freedom and indepen- 
 dence there, to which they had been ac- 
 customed at home. With both the will 
 and power to accomplish their purpose, 
 they first demanded admission for their 
 204 
 
 State as an independent member of the 
 Mexican Confederacy ; and, that being 
 refused, they declared themselves wholly 
 free of all allegiance whatsoever to that 
 government. This assumption resulted 
 in a war with Mexico, which, after va- 
 rious fortunes, was determined in favor 
 of the Texans, by the total defeat and 
 capture of the Mexican President, Santa 
 Anna, at the memorable battle of San 
 Jacinto, April 21, 1836. The Uttle vil- 
 lage of San Jacinto is in Harris County, 
 on Buffalo Bayou, near its entrance into 
 Galveston Bay, 17 miles east of the pres- 
 ent city of Houston. Texas continued to 
 be an independent nation after the battle 
 of San Jacinto, until her admission in 
 1845 as a member of the great North 
 American Confederacy. This fresh turn 
 in events, and the disputes which followed 
 in respect to boundary lines, between the 
 new State and the territory of Mexico, 
 were soon followed by the war between 
 that country and the United States. Two 
 of the famous fights in this war, under 
 the lead of General Taylor, occurred 
 within the limits of the present State. 
 The battle-field of Palo Alto is near the 
 southern extremity of Texas, between 
 Point Isabel and Matamoras, nine miles 
 northeast of the latter town. The barttle 
 took place on May 8, 1846. The Ameri- 
 can troops, numbering 2,111, led by Gen- 
 eral Taylor, had 32 killed and 47 wound- 
 ed ; while the Mexicans, under General 
 Arista, amounting to 6,000 men, had 252 
 killed. The American loss included the 
 gallant Major Ringgold. The battle-field 
 of Resaca de la Palma lies in the south- 
 eastern extremity of the State, near the 
 entrance of the Rio Grande into the Gulf 
 of Mexico. It is near the field of Palo 
 Alto, four miles north of Matamoras, on 
 the route to Point Isabel. The engage- 
 ment occurred on May 9, 1846, the day 
 
Texas.] 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 [Texas. 
 
 following tho victory of Palo Alto. The 
 Mexicans, to the number of 6,000, under 
 General Arista, were totally defeated by 
 about 2,000 Americans, commanded by 
 General Taylor. The loss of the former 
 was about 500 killed and wounded, be- 
 sides all their artillery and baggage; 
 that of the latter was 89 killed and 82 
 wounded. Though Texas has, since these 
 days of trial, gone on prospering and to 
 prosper, she is not yet entirely at peace 
 in aJl her borders. On the nojthwest 
 plains of the State the people are still 
 exposed to the murderous incursions of 
 their Indian neighbors, the fierce and 
 warlike Comanches, Apaches, and other 
 tribes ; and, even now, on her southern 
 border, Mexican forays keep the people 
 in a, condition scarcely less harassing 
 than actual war. 
 
 Texas was the seventh of the Southern 
 States to join the ill-fated Confederacy, 
 the ordinance of secession having been 
 passed at the city of Austin, February 5, 
 1861. The United States troops in the 
 State at that time numbered 2,500, di- 
 vided into 37 companies. 
 
 The landscape of Texas is varied, and 
 in many sections of the State highly pict- 
 uresque. Along the coast, on the south- 
 east, there is a flat reach of from 30 to 
 60 miles in breadth ; next comes a belt 
 of undulating prairie-country, extending 
 from 150 to 200 miles wide, and this, 
 again, is succeeded in the west and north- 
 west by a region of bold hiUs and table- 
 lands. The plateau of Texas, including 
 some portions of New Mexico, extends 
 about 260 miles from north to south, and 
 300 miles from the Rio Grande east. The 
 upper part, known as the Llano Eatacado, 
 or " Staked Plain," is 2,600 feet above the 
 sea. This immense district, excepting, 
 sometimes, the immediate edge of the 
 streams, is almost wholly destitute of vege- 
 tation. Even the stunted grasses, which 
 follow the rains, soon wither and die. The 
 Colorado, the Brazos, and the Red Rivers, 
 find their sources here. The extreme 
 northern part of the State, extending, 
 perhaps, 60 miles or more, is occupied by 
 a portion of the Great American Desert. 
 The highlands of the west and northwest 
 are yet a wilderness, visited only by a few 
 bold hunters in quest of the buffalo and 
 other wild animals which abound there. 
 
 The region, however, is said to have an 
 inviting aspect, and to bo well watered 
 and fertile. The Colorado Hills extend 
 iu a north and south direction, east of the 
 Colorado River. Between the Colorado 
 and the Rio Grande, and north of the 
 sources of the San Antonio and Nueces 
 Rivers, are broken and irregular chains 
 of hills, probably outposts of the great 
 Rocky Mountain ranges. Some of these 
 hills, as the Organ, the Hueco, and the Gua- 
 dalupe Mountains, have an elevation of 
 3,000 feet above the Rio Grande ; and the 
 Guadalupe rises to that height above the 
 adjacent plains. 
 
 Sportsmen will find a congenial abid- 
 ing-place in Texas. On the prairies al- 
 most every kind of wild animal abounds. 
 In the northwest are the wild-horse, or 
 mustang, and the fierce buffalo. The 
 deer and the antelope, the moose and the 
 mountain-goat, are plentiful — not to men- 
 tion the jaguars, the pumas, wild-cats, 
 black bears, ocelots, wolves, and foxes, 
 and such smaller game as peccaries, opos- 
 sums, raccoons, hares, rabbits, and squir- 
 rels. A special feature of the wild life 
 here is the prairie-dog, or marmot, dwell- 
 ing in holes burrowed in the ground. 
 Their numbers are so great that the trav- 
 eller may sometimes journey for days to- 
 gether without losing sight of them. The 
 feathered tribe are also abundant, includ- 
 ing birds of prey and birds of sport. 
 There is the bald-headed eagle and the 
 Mexican eagle, vultures, owls, hawks, 
 wild -turkeys, wild-geese, prairie-hens, 
 canvass - back and other ducks, teal, 
 brandt, pheasants, quails, grouse, wood- 
 cocks, pigeons, partridges, snipes, plo- 
 vers, red-birds, and turtle-doves. By the 
 waters are found, also, the crane, the 
 swan, tho pelican, the water-turkey, and 
 the king-fisher. The smaller birds are 
 numerous, and among them many of the 
 most brilliant plumage, as the oriole, the 
 paroquet, the cardinal, the whippoorwill, 
 and the sweet-toned mocking-bird. Black- 
 birds abound, and woodpeckers, blue-jays, 
 starlings, red-birds, swallows, martins, 
 and wrens. In the rivers and bays there 
 are all the varieties of water-life, from al- 
 ligators to perch, pike, trout, turtles, and 
 oysters. Snakes and reptiles of all sorts 
 are at home in Texas — rattlesnakes, 
 moccasins, copperheads, coachwhips, and 
 205 
 
Climaie.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [The Bio Grasdb. 
 
 garden-snatee, horned-frogs and lizards, 
 the ugly centipedes, and the poisonous 
 tarantula. 
 
 Climate. — The climate of Texas, con- 
 sidering the semi-tropical position of the 
 State, is healthful and pleasant. The 
 hilly region to the west is remarkably so, 
 and the salubrity of the district in which 
 San Antonio is situated is attested by the 
 old Mexican proverb — " If a man wants 
 to die, he must leave Bexar." The prai- 
 rie-lands throughout the State are con- 
 sidered favorable to health, a steady 
 breeze from the Gulf penetrating far in- 
 land and tempering the summer heats, 
 which would otherwise be excessive. 
 The winter is for the most part a mild 
 and pleasant season, but during the win- 
 ter and spring months sudden changes of 
 temperature are common, the wind veer- 
 ing round rapidly from a southerly direc- 
 tion to the north, and blowing with a 
 keenness which reduces the temperature 
 many degrees in a few hours. 
 
 Soil and Products. — The soil of Texas 
 is as varied as its surface and climate, 
 and, for the most part, extremely fertile. 
 The great staple is cotton, which thrives 
 all over the State, and is of very superior 
 quality in the Gulf districts. Sugar may 
 be profitably cultivated in the level re- 
 gions. Tobacco is raised with ease, and 
 with scarcely less success than on the 
 island of Cuba. All the grains and 
 grasses of the North are found here, with 
 every variety of tropical and other fruits 
 and vegetation. The live-oak, in many 
 varieties, abounds in the forests, beside 
 the palmetto, cedar, pine, hickory, wal- 
 nut, ash, pecan, mulberry, elm, syca- 
 more, and cypress. 
 
 Minerals. — Texas abounds in mineral 
 wealth, as might be supposed from her 
 proximity to the rich mining districts of 
 Mexico. Gold and silver lie buried, no 
 doubt, in large quantities in her soil. In- 
 deed, the latter metal has been already 
 found at San Saba and upon the Bidas 
 Eiver. Coal is supposed to exist about 200 
 miles from the coast, in a belt extending 
 southwest from Trinity River to the Rio 
 Grande. Iron is found in many parts of 
 the State ; and copperas, agates, lime, 
 alum, chalcedony, jasper, and red and 
 white sandstone. There are, too, salt- 
 lakes and salt-springs. In a pitch-lake, 
 206 
 
 20 miles from Beaumont, there are de- 
 posits of nulphur, nitre, and fire-clay. An 
 immense gypsum-bed,- the largest yet dis- 
 covered on the continent, traverses the 
 northwest portion of the State. Mineral 
 springs exist in different parts of the 
 country. 
 
 Stock-Haising. — Western Texas, though 
 possessing large tracts of good farming- 
 land, and enjoying on the whole favor- 
 able seasons, is still mainly a stock-rais- 
 ing co»ntry. Vast droves of cattle and 
 horses are gathered together here every 
 spring and driven into Kansas, whence 
 they are conveyed by railway to the 
 Northern markets, in which Texas beef 
 enjoys a high reputation. It is estimated 
 that in the season of 1871 not less than 
 900,000 head of cattle were driven out of 
 Texas. This, at the average price paid for 
 beef-cattle, say $14, would amount to 
 $12,600,000. The completion of the Mis- 
 souri, Kansas & Texas Hailway opens an 
 all-rail route to the Northern markets, 
 and will greatly develop this trade. 
 
 Population. — According to the census 
 of 1870, the population of the State is 
 818,579. In 1860 it was 604,216, show- 
 ing an increase in ten years of nearly 
 215,000. Now it is over a million. 
 
 BATS AHD EITEE8. 
 
 The coast of Texas, like that of the 
 other Southern States, on the Atlantic 
 and the Gulf of Mexico, is lined with a 
 chain of islands, separated from the main- 
 land by bays and lagoons. There are 
 the bays oT Galveston, Matagorda, Espi- 
 ritu Santo, Aranzaa, Corpus Christi, and 
 Laguna del Madre. These bays are some 
 30 and some nearly 100 miles in length. 
 
 The Rio Orande, or Rio Bravo 
 del Norte, the largest river in Texas, of 
 which it forms the southern boundary, is 
 1,800 miles in length. It flows from the 
 Rocky Mountains to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 It is a shallow stream, much broken by 
 rapids and sand-bars, though small steam- 
 boats ascend its waters 450 miles from 
 the sea to Kingsbury Rapids. Browns- 
 ville, 40 miles from its mouth, is its prin- 
 cipal town. The "Great Indian Cross- 
 ing " is about 900 miles from its mouth. 
 At this place is the famous ford of the 
 Apaches and the Comanches, when they 
 make their predatory visits into Mexice 
 
COLOBASO ElTER.] 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 [HARRIBBima. 
 
 The Colorado Rirer nms from 
 the table-lands in the northwest part of 
 the State 900 miles to Matagorda Bay. 
 Austin City, Bastrop, La Grange, Colum- 
 bus, and Matagorda, are upou its banks. 
 Austin, the capital of the State, at the 
 head of steamboat navigation, is 300 
 miles from the sea. The scenery of 
 many portions of this river is extremely 
 picturesque. 
 
 The Brazos is one of the largest 
 of the Texan rivers. It runs from the 
 table-lands of the west to the Gulf of 
 Mexico, 40 miles below Galveston ; the 
 direct distance from its source to its 
 mouth is 600 miles, and by the windings 
 of its channel 900 miles. At high water 
 the Brazos is navigable 300 miles from 
 its mouth to Waahinglan; and steam- 
 boats may ascend 40 miles, to Columbia, 
 at all seasons. Much of its course is 
 through alluvial plains, occupied by su- 
 gar and cotton plantations, fields of In- 
 dian-corn, and forests of red cedar and 
 of live-oak. Richmond and Waco are 
 small towns on this river. 
 
 The Nueces, like most of the rivers 
 of Texas, rises in the table and hill dis- 
 tricts of the west, and flows through the 
 State into the Gulf of Mexico. This 
 river follows a very eccentric course of 
 850 miles to Nueces Bay. It may be as- 
 cended by steamers 100 miles. 
 
 The San Antonio, the Cruada- 
 Inpe, the Trinity, the Neclies, 
 and the Sa1>ine, other chief rivers of 
 Texas, are, in general character, course, 
 and extent, much like those of which we 
 have already spoken. 
 
 MOUTE I. 
 
 GALYHSTOS' TO BOTTSTOir. 
 
 Via GaVseston, MmiMon <& Bmdergon 
 Railwa/jl. 
 
 Stations: — Galveston; Clear Creek, 
 27 miles; Harrisburg (connects with 
 Harrisburg & San Antonio Railroad), 
 44 ; Houston (connects with Houston & 
 Texas Central Railroad), 50. 
 
 Cralveston is the largest city and 
 commercial metropolis of Texas. It is 
 built on an island at the mouth of Gal- 
 veston Bay. The island of Galveston is 
 about 30 miles in length and three miles 
 oroad, dividing the harbor from the Gulf 
 
 of Mexico. The city has now recovered 
 from the prostration occasioned by the 
 war, and, notwithstanding some draw- 
 backs, is steadily growing in size and 
 importance. The present population is 
 over 16,000. 
 
 The Methodist Episcopal Church is a 
 handsome and substantial structure, re- 
 cently erected at a cost of $75,000, and paid 
 for before it was opened. The Roman Cath- 
 olic University of St. Mary's and Cathe- 
 dral, and the Episcopal Church, are large, 
 noticeable buildings of brick in the Goth- 
 ic style. The city has a fine Town-Hall, 
 Market-House, and a new Theatre. The 
 Mercantile Library (formerly the Method- 
 ist Church), though only opened in 1871, 
 already has a good collection of standard 
 works. In connection with it is a public 
 reading-room, where American and for- 
 eign newspapers and periodicals may be 
 seen. Galveston, like other towns on the 
 Gulf, is liable to be visited by epidemics, 
 but in other respects the health of the 
 city is remarkably good. The total ex- 
 ports of Galveston in 1870 amounted to 
 125,800,385, and the duties paid on for- 
 dm imports, to |277,760,29. Hotels: 
 Exckange Hotel and Washington House. 
 
 The Island of Galveston was for a num- 
 ber of years the rendezvous and head- 
 quarters of the famous pirate of the Gulf, 
 Lafltte, until his settlement was broken 
 up in 1821 by Lieutenant Kearney, com- 
 manding the United States brig Enter- 
 prise. The city was first settled in 1837. 
 The bay extends northward from the 
 city to the mouth of Trinity River, a dis- 
 tance of 35 mUes, and has an average 
 breadth of 15 miles. 
 
 Marrislburg (44 miles), the capital 
 of Harris County, is a considerable village 
 situated on Buffalo Bayou, six miles 
 southeast of Houston. It is the point of 
 junction with the Galveston, San An- 
 tonio & Pacific Railway, which extends 
 westward from Harrisburg to Columbus, 
 in Colorado County. This road will be 
 carried from Columbus in two branches, 
 one of which will find its terminus at San 
 Antonio, and the other running to Austin 
 and thence northward to connect with 
 the transcontinental road. At present, 
 travellers to San Antonio by this route 
 have to endure from 35 to 40 hours' 
 staging over bad roads. 
 
 207 
 
Houston.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 {Waco. 
 
 Houston (50 miles). Hotels: 
 Hutckings House, a large and well-ap- 
 pointed hotel, and Enterprise House (for- 
 merly Old Capitol Hotel). 
 
 Houston, the second of the Texan cities 
 in commercial importance, but not sec- 
 ond to any in ambition and enterprise, is 
 also reached from Galveston by steam- 
 boat, 82 miles. Its population is about 
 12,000. The city is situated upon Buffalo 
 Bayou, standing somewhat higher than 
 the adjacent country, and is considered a 
 very healthful place. This is a great en- 
 treport for the cotton, sugar, and other 
 products of the district, and a large trade 
 is done with the interior. Among the 
 public buildings of Houston may be es- 
 pecially noted the Hutchings House, and 
 the new Freemasons' Hall on Main Street. 
 The educational institutions of this city 
 are in good repute. The Texas State 
 Fair has been annually held here in the 
 spring. Houston is the centre of most 
 of the completed railroads in Texas, and 
 wiU probably be the permanent capital 
 of the State. 
 
 MOUTE II. 
 
 HOUSTON' TO VENISON^ 
 Via Houston <6 Texas Ventral SaUway. 
 
 Stations : — Houston ; Cypress, 25 
 miles ; Hempstead (connects with Western 
 Division), 50 ; Navasoto, 70 ; Bryan, 100 ; 
 Hearne (connects with International Kail- 
 way), 120 ; Bremond, 143 ; Groesbeck, 
 170 ; Richland, 199 ; Corsicana, 211 ; 
 Dallas, 265 ; Breckenridge, 277 ; McKin- 
 ney, 296; Dcnison, 341. 
 
 XEcmpstead (50 miles) is a small 
 postal village in Austin County, where 
 the Western Division of the road branch- 
 es off to Austin. 
 
 Navasoto (70 miles) is a small 
 town on Navasoto River, where it empties 
 into the Brazos. 
 
 Sleanie (120 miles) is another thriv- 
 ing little town, where the International 
 Railway branches off. 
 
 Crroesbeek (170 miles) is a small 
 prairie town, created in a few months by 
 the railroad, but pleasantly situated in 
 the midst of a fertile district. 
 
 Corsicana (211 miles) is a small 
 Village of no importance, though, like the 
 208 
 
 rest of the towns in this vicinity, growing 
 rapidly. 
 
 Dallas (265 miles), the principal 
 town of the north of Texas, is situated 
 on the Trinity River, in the midst of-a 
 fertile and rapidly-improving district. 
 
 I>enison (341 miles), the terminus 
 of the road, was a wilderness a year ago, 
 before the line was finished, but has now 
 a population of 4,600, and a flourishing 
 trade. Connection is made here with the 
 Musouri, Kansas & Texas Railway, which 
 forms a grand through-route from Gal- 
 veston and Houston to St. Louis. 
 
 'Waco, which is reached by a branch 
 line, known as the Waco Tap, leaving the 
 main line of the Texas Central at Bre- 
 mond, lies in McGlellan County, and is 
 one of the best-built and most rapidly- 
 improving country towns in Texas. The 
 public buildings are not specially remark- 
 able, but many of the private residences 
 are of a superior class, surrounded by 
 handsome gardens, orchards, etc. The 
 city has been admirably laid out, with 
 broad thoroughfares, and covers a large 
 space of ground. It stands nearly in the 
 centre of Texas, on the west bank of the 
 Brazos River, which is crossed here by a 
 suspension bridge. The Baptists, Method- 
 ists, and other denominations, have 
 flourishing educational institutions. Waco 
 is probably destined to attract much of 
 the -trade of the western country now 
 opening up to settlement, as well as that 
 of its own immediate district. It is sur- 
 rounded by a fine farming country. 
 Stages connect with the railway at Led- 
 better, McDade, McKinney, and other 
 points, for all important towns lying be- 
 yond or near the line. — ^Population, 3,000. 
 
 MO UTE III. 
 
 HOUSTON TO AUSTIN. 
 
 Via Texas Central SaUway and Western 
 Dioision. 
 
 Stations : — Houston ; Cypress, 25 
 miles ; Hempstead, 50 ; Brenham, 75 ; 
 Ledbetter, 100; Giddings, 110; Austin, 
 168. 
 
 This route, as far as Hempstead, is 
 identical with Route II. 
 
 Brenham (76 miles) is a very 
 prosperous town in Washington County 
 
ArsTiN.] 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 [Modes o; Tbatsl. 
 
 which haa grown greatly since the open- 
 ing of the railroad. It is surrounded by 
 a beautiful and fertile country, which ia 
 pretty thickly settled and well cultivated. 
 
 Kiedltetteir (100 miles) is a pleas- 
 ant little town which, until the present 
 year, was the terminus of the raikoad. 
 
 Austin (168 miles) ia the capital of 
 Texas. It is beautifully situated on the 
 north bank of the Colorado Eiver, 200 
 miles by land from its mouth, and 230 
 miles west-northwest of Galveston. The 
 seat of government was established here 
 in 1844. The city contains many hand- 
 some buildings. The Capitol occupies a 
 commanding position at the summit of 
 an eminence in the centre of the town. 
 The General Zand- Office is a tasteful 
 structure, conspicuous on a neighboring 
 hill. The Asylums for the Blind and 
 Deaf and Dumb, and the Lunatic Asylum, 
 are commodious institutions. The hotel 
 accommodation is good. The landscape 
 of the vicinity is strikingly picturesque, 
 and a fine view is obtained from the Gov- 
 ernor's house. The springs in the vicin- 
 ity of the city are much frequented by 
 travellers. The present population of 
 Austin is 4,500, and is steadily increas- 
 ing, and in due time the city will, no 
 doubt, become a large and prosperous 
 business mart. Hotel : Stringer's Hotel. 
 
 The election held in November, 1812, 
 seems to have decided that the capital 
 shall be removed to Houston. 
 
 MOUTE IV. 
 
 BOVSTON TO LONQYIEW. 
 Via InHerrwiimwl & Gt, Northern Sailway. 
 
 Stations : — Houston ; Spring, 34 
 miles ; Willis, 48 ; Phelps (connects with 
 branch railway to Huntsville), 67 ; Dodge, 
 T2 ; Trinity, 87 ; Crockett, 115 ; Pales- 
 tine (connects with Brazos Division), 145 ; 
 Troupe, 198 ; Kilgore, 223 ; Longview, 236. 
 
 Honston is described in Bovte I. 
 
 Pltclps (67 miles) is a small station 
 whence a branch road, eight miles long, 
 reaches Huntsville. 
 
 BCnntSf^ille is a highly-prosperous 
 town, capital of Walker County. It is sit- 
 uated in a rich cotton-planting region, and 
 
 haa an active trade, which since the com- 
 pletion of the railroad is assuming large 
 dimensions. The State Penitentiary is 
 located here. Population in 1870, 1,600. 
 
 Xi'Inity (87 miles) is a small place 
 in Trinity County, on the banks of Trin- 
 ity River. 
 
 Palestine (145 miles) is the capital 
 of Anderson County, and one of the most 
 prosperous towns in the State. It is 
 pleasantly situated in a fertile and undu- 
 lating region. Trinity Kiver is only 10 
 miles distant, and the steamboats which 
 navigate this river ascend to Magnolia, 
 the landing-place of Palestine. Palestine 
 was settled in 1846, and has now several 
 large churches, handsome stores, and two 
 seminaries. 
 
 ILiOng^Tie-w (236 miles) is the west- 
 ern terminus of the Texas Padfie Rail- 
 way, and the connection here formed will 
 be very important when the latter road 
 is completed across the continent. 
 
 The railroad between Houston and 
 New Orleans, partially constructed before 
 the war, but fallen into disuse, is now be- 
 ing repaired by the New Orleans, Mobile 
 & Texas Company, which has proposed 
 to extend its line along the old route to 
 Houston, and to make a fork at Liberty, 
 running an air-line thence to San Anto- 
 nio, and probably farther west. 
 
 The Houston Tap & Branoria Mailway, 
 from Houston to Columbia, 50 miles, 
 though finished, is not now in operation. 
 
 OTHEE MODES OIT TEATKL. 
 
 Steamboats. — The Morgan steamers run 
 between Indianola, Galveston, and New 
 Orleans, via Berwick Bay. A new line 
 of steamers, taking passengers at re- 
 duced fares by the outside route, has re- 
 cently been established between Galves- 
 ton and New Orleans. Steamboats ply 
 daily between Galveston and Houston, 
 which is the head of navigation on the 
 Buffalo Bayou, making the passage in 
 about twelve hours. These boats have 
 good accommodations for passengers. A 
 small steamer now runs at intervals of 
 about a week between Galveston and Cal- 
 casieu, carrying passengers. There is 
 also occasional steam communication be- 
 tween Corpus Christi, Eookysoil, and 
 other points, along the coast and up the 
 209 
 
HoDEa oir Tbatdl.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [San Ahtouio. 
 
 Trinity Eiver. Northeastern Texas may 
 be reached by steamer from New Orleans 
 via the Bed River. 
 
 Public Stages. — Regular stage - routes 
 are established in all the more settled 
 parts of Texas, and travellers will find no 
 difficulty in getting from one town to an- 
 other by public conveyance, though they 
 may be subject to some delays in bad 
 weather. The stages along the main 
 routes are fairly appointed, but the con- 
 dition of the roads or tracks in most 
 parts of Texas is such that, in winter, or 
 after rains, only slow time can be made. 
 In a few counties— chiefly in the north — 
 some labor has been expended in im- 
 proving the roads and bridging over 
 creeks and bogs, but, speaking generally, 
 the improvement of the roads has not 
 kept pace with the rapid progress ofithe 
 country in other respects. The usual 
 fare by stage is " a bit " (twelve and a 
 half cents) per mile. 
 
 Horseback or buggy travelling, especi- 
 ally the former, is general in Texas, and 
 the stranger, who wishes to see the coun- 
 try beyond the lines of railroads, cannot 
 do better than adopt the general custom. 
 If he be alone, he will find horseback- 
 travelling the more economical and con- 
 venient. Let him leave his heavy bag- 
 gage at Galveston or Houston, and con- 
 tent himself with such necessaries as can 
 be stowed away in a pair of saddle-bags. 
 A good saddle-horse may be bought in 
 any large town for from $126 to $150, 
 and, if well treated, may sell for nearly 
 as much at the end of the journey. Small 
 Texas horses of pure mustang-blood, or 
 slightly crossed with a better breed, may 
 be bought everywhere at from $50 to 
 $T5, or, if unbroken, for half that sum, 
 but they do not make good travelling- 
 horses, even if apparently strong enough 
 to carry the weight. Having secured a 
 good horse, the traveller will need for 
 outfit a Texas saddle — rather hard riding 
 at first, but soon recognized as the most 
 easy, as well as the safest and most du- 
 rable for a journey — ^bridle, saddle-blank- 
 et of moss or other cool material, and 
 saddle-bags. It is not necessary that he 
 should carry holster - pistols, or other 
 arms, for his protection. The writer 
 rode through Texas alone and unarmed 
 without the slightest molestation, and the 
 210 
 
 testimony of numbers of other persons ia 
 that an attack upon a peaceable traveller 
 is now almost unheard of. 
 
 K a party of two or more persons 
 make the journey into the interior to- 
 gether in fine weather, they may conven- 
 iently take a buggy, or other light car- 
 riage, and, if they prefer it, carry their 
 own provisions and tent, and camp out 
 each night, independent of hotels. The 
 tent will add to their comfort, but it is 
 not essential, as in summer they may 
 sleep under the shade of a tree, fanned 
 by the breezes from the Gulf. 
 
 Hotels in the Interior. — ^Each coun- 
 try-town has one or more houses of en- 
 tertainment for travellers, where plain, 
 wholesome fare may be obtained at mod- 
 erate charges. The towns are seldom so 
 far apart that one may not be reached at 
 the end of each day's journey, but, when 
 this is the case, some farm-house will be 
 found along the road where travellers ar& 
 regularly received and hospitably enter- 
 tained, the farmer seldom expecting more 
 than a dollar for the entertainment of 
 man and horse for the night. The sleep- 
 ing accommodations up the country, even 
 at the hotels, are generally very limited. 
 
 Hsaa. Antonio, about 70 mUes 
 southwest of Austin, is the most ancient 
 city of Texas, its foundation dating back 
 two centuries before the settlement of 
 the country by Americans. It is a thriv- 
 ing city with a population of 12,500, the 
 principal commercial depot of Western 
 Texas, and the centre of a prosperous 
 trade with Mexico. It is situated in 
 Bexar County, on the San Antonio River. 
 The population is more mixed than in 
 other Texan cities, including many Mexi- 
 cans and half-breeds. Many of the pri- 
 vate residences are elegant. The United 
 States Arsenal is one of the principal ob- 
 jects of interest. At Fort Alamo, in the 
 immediate neighborhood, in March, 1836, 
 a garrison of Texans, attacked by an 
 overwhelming Mexican force, perished to 
 a ihan rather than yield ; on which ac- 
 count it is sometimes spoken of as the 
 Thermopyte of Texas. Missions San 
 Jos6, San Juan, and Coneepcion, built by 
 the Spaniards, are interesting objects. 
 The main Flaza is still used by the Ro- 
 man Catholics, who constitute the bulk 
 of the population, as a place of assembly 
 
Bbownstille.] 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 [Distances. 
 
 and worship, but a large Roman OathoKc 
 Cathedral is now in process of erection 
 here. The leading hotels of San Antonio 
 are the Plaza and the Menger Souse. 
 
 BrOTf^nsT'ille, formerly Fort 
 Brown, is in Cameron County, opposite 
 Matamoras, on the Kio Grande, 40 miles 
 from its mouth. It is 300 south of Aus- 
 tin. BrownsTille is one of the chief 
 towns of the State, and has a population 
 of about 5,000. It has a Custom-House 
 and a thriving trade. It was named in 
 honor of Major Brown, who commanded 
 the garrison at the period of the Mexican 
 War. He was mortally wounded by a 
 shell from the enemy's batteries (May 6, 
 1846) while General Taylor was occupied 
 in opening communication with Point 
 Isabel. Matamoras, on the opposite side 
 of the Kio Grande, is a populous Mexican 
 town, with an important trade. The 
 American army under Taylor entered 
 this place without opposition, after the 
 Tictories of Palo Alto and Besaca de la 
 Palm a. 
 
 Bastrop is a thriving and growing 
 trading centre, situated on the east bank 
 of the Colorado Eiver, 35 miles southeast 
 of Austin. Population, 1,200. Bastrop 
 is reached by stage from McDade, on 
 the western branch of the Houston & 
 Texas Central Bailroad, and by steam- 
 boat from Matagorda. 
 
 India^ola, the principal seaport 
 of Southwestern Texas, is the terminus 
 of the railway, now constructing to con- 
 nect the Gulf with San Antonio, the com- 
 pletion of which will add much to the 
 prosperity of Indianola. It has a con- 
 siderable coasting-trade with Galveston, 
 New Orleans, and other points. Popula- 
 tion, 2,100. 
 
 inCa.tag'Oi'da., situated on Matagor- 
 da Bay, is a pleasant town and a favorite 
 Bummer resort. Population about 500. 
 
 Jedferson is a rapidly - growing 
 town, considered the most important 
 
 trading centre of Eastern Texas. The 
 town may be reached by steamboat up 
 the Red River from New Orleans, via 
 Shrevcport, or from Galveston by a 
 somewhat tedious stage - journey from 
 the northern end of the Texas Central 
 Railroad. Population about 5,000. 
 
 The means of travel in Texas being so 
 diversified and complex, the traveller 
 will probably find the following table 
 very useful : 
 
 DISTANCES FKOM HOUSTON TO DIFPEBENT 
 POINTS OF TEXAS. 
 
 Houston, via Houston & Texas Central 
 Railway, to Cypress, 25 miles ; Hockley, 
 35 ; Hempstead, 50 ; Navasoto, TO ; Mil- 
 lican, 80 ; Bryan, 100 ; Heame, 120 ; 
 Calvert, 130 ; Bremond, 143 ; Kosse, 
 153 ; Groesbcck, l'?0. Houston, via 
 Houston & Texas Central Railway and 
 stage, to Springfield, 180 ; Tehuacana, 
 193; Corsicana, 212; Waxahachie, 220; 
 Dallas, 268 ; McKinney, 298 ; Sherman, 
 330 ; Preston, 350 ; Paris, 365. 
 
 Houston, via Houston & Texas Railway 
 and Western Branch Railway, to Chap- 
 el Hill, 62 miles ; Brenham, '75 ; Burton, 
 87 ; Ledbetter, 100. Houston; via Hous- 
 ton & Texas Central Railway, Western 
 Branch Railway, and stage to La Grange, 
 110 miles ; Bastrop, 130 ; Webberville, 
 143 ; Austin, 166 ; San Marcos, 180 ; 
 New Braunfels, 170. 
 
 Houston, via Houston & Texas Central 
 Railway and Waco Tap Railway, to Mar- 
 lin, 165 miles ; Waco, 183. Houston, via 
 Houston & Texas Central Railway, Waco 
 Tap Railway, and stage, to Meridian, 221 
 miles; Gatesville, 220; Stephenson, 263; 
 Breckenridge, 321 ; Weatherford, 273 ; 
 Fort Belknap, 323. 
 
 Houston, via Galveston, Houston k 
 San Antonio Railway, to Richmond, 30 
 miles ; Bernard, 45 ; Wharton, 68 ; Eagle 
 Lake, 60. 
 
 211 
 
Cluuie, Soil, Etc.] 
 
 SOtTTHEKN TOTTK. 
 
 [FOFCIiAIIOH, Eto. 
 
 AEKANSAS. 
 
 Arkansas adjoins Texas on the north. 
 It was admitted into the Union in 1836, 
 although it was settled by the French 
 at Arkansas Post, about 1686, and until 
 1803 formed part of the Territory of 
 Louisiana. Its history has no very 
 marked points, beyond rude frontier con- 
 tests with the Indian tribes. It is a wild, 
 desolate region of swamps, marshes, and 
 lagoons, for a hundred miles back from 
 the Mississippi Kiyer. This great plain 
 is broken at intervals by elevations some- 
 times thirty miles in circuit. At flood 
 periods, when the land is inundated, these 
 points become temporary islands. Exten- 
 sive levees have been constructed along 
 the banks of the river, by which means 
 much of this vast tract will eventually be 
 converted into valuable land, with a soil 
 of the richest nature. The Ozark Moun- 
 tains bisect the State unequally. The mid- 
 dle regions, and the district north of the 
 Ozark ranges, have a broken and varied 
 surface. 
 
 Climaie and Soil. — The climate, soil, 
 vegetation, and products, of the lower 
 portion of Arkansas are all similar to 
 those of the other Southwestern States ; 
 while the hUly regions above have, in all 
 these respects, the more Northern char- 
 acteristics. The southern section is un- 
 healthy, while the uplands are as salubri- 
 ous as any part of the Union. The rich, 
 black alluvion of the river yields Indian- 
 corn in great luxuriance. This product, 
 with cotton, tobacco, rice, many varieties 
 of grain, wool, hops, hemp, flax, and silk, 
 constitute its staple products. 
 
 The Forest- Trees include cotton- wood, 
 gum, ash, and cypress, in the bottom 
 lands, and the usual vegetation of the 
 North in the uplands. The sugar-maple, 
 yielding large supplies of sap, is found 
 here. 
 
 -Coal, iron, zinc, lead, gyp- 
 212 
 
 sum, manganese, salt, and other mineral 
 products, exist here. Gold, too, it is said, 
 has been found. " There is," says a writer, 
 " manganese enough in Arkansas to sup- 
 ply the world ; in zinc it exceeds every 
 State except New Jersey, and has more 
 gypsum than all the other States except 
 Texas put together ; while it is equally 
 well supplied with marble and salt." 
 
 WUd AmmcUs range the forests and 
 swamps in Arkansas as in Texas ; and 
 quails, wild -turkeys, geese, and other 
 birds, abound. Trout and other fish are 
 plentiful in the rivers and streams. 
 
 The ordinance of secession, which took 
 (nominally) Arkansas out of the Union, 
 was passed against strenuous and long- 
 continued opposition. May 6, 1861. 
 
 Population. — In 1860 the population of 
 the State was 436,450, and in 1870, 483,- 
 189, or but Uttle more than that of St. 
 Louis and her two or three adjoining 
 counties. The increase during the last 
 decade was about 10 per cent., and this 
 in the face of the fact that for ten years 
 previous to the war not a State in the 
 Union increased in population more rap- 
 idly than Arkansas. . The terrible calam- 
 ities that the civil conflict entailed upon 
 the State are the only explanation neces- 
 sary to account for the slow rate of in- 
 crease during the past ten years. 
 
 Wealtli, etc. — The assessed valuation 
 of taxable property for the year 1870 
 was $100,000,000. The. value of real 
 estate and personal property, |150,000,- 
 000. The cotton crop of Arkansas, of 
 1868, reached 298,000 bales, and realized 
 $30,000,000. The crops of 1869 and 
 1870 exceeded this amount. The other 
 farm products of this State, for 1870, 
 amount in value to fully $28,000,- 
 000. The aggregate agricultural prod- 
 ucts of the State for 1870 are worth 
 fully $60,000,000— about equal to three 
 
Aekassas Eivkr.] 
 
 ARKANSAS. 
 
 [LiTTiE Rock. 
 
 per cent, of the products of the whole 
 Uuion, 
 
 Arkansas is most easily and expe- 
 ditiously reached from New Orleans by 
 steam-packets, which leare daily for the 
 Bed and Washita, the Arkansas, and 
 White Rivers. Since the completion of 
 the Memphis & Little Bock RaUvm/, this 
 is probably the best way for the traveller 
 to enter the State. 
 
 EIVEES, ETC. 
 
 The Arkansas River, rising in 
 the Rocky Mountains, flows fron the In- 
 dian Territory on the west, and traverses 
 the middle of the State for 500 miles, 
 gathering up in its long course the waters 
 of many tributary streams, and bearing 
 them to the great floods of the Missis- 
 sippi. The entire length of this river is 
 2,000 miles. It ia navigable for steamers 
 800 miles. Next to the Missouri, the 
 Arkansas is the largest tributary of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 The ff bite Kiver is 800 miles in 
 length. It is navigable from the Missis- 
 sippi — into which it debouches, not far 
 from the mouth of the Arkansas — 350 
 miles to the mouth of the Black River, 
 and at some periods of the year 30 miles 
 higher up, to Batesville. As along the 
 other rivers of Arkansas, the cypress cov- 
 ers the swamps of the Mississippi vicin- 
 ity, and gives place to the pine and other 
 vegetation higher up. This stream has 
 numerous large affluents, among them the 
 Big North Fork, Bryant's Fork, the Lit- 
 tle North Fork, and Baffalo Fork. 
 
 St. Prancis, the Ked River, 
 the 'WOiSliita, and other waters, 
 bear the same general characteristics as 
 the streams already mentioned. There 
 are no lakes in this State of especial ex- 
 tent or interest. Hallways have not thus 
 fer been much needed in Arkansas, with 
 her great facilities of water communica- 
 tion and her thin population ; but two or 
 three are finished, and several others are 
 in process of construction. 
 
 KOUTE I. 
 
 MEMPHIS, TEirs:, TO LITTLE ROCS, 
 
 ARK. 
 
 Via Memphis & Little Rock Railway. 
 
 Stations : — Memphis (connects by ferry 
 
 with Hopefield) ; Hopefield, 2 miles ; Ed- 
 
 mondson's, 17 ; L'Anguille, 60 ; Brmkley, 
 70; Duvall's Bluff, 87; Lonoke, 111; 
 Huntersvile (connects with ferry to Little 
 Rock), 134 ; Little Rock, 135. 
 
 mempliis is described in the chap- 
 ter on Tennessee. 
 
 Ki'Anguille (60 miles) is a small 
 village in St. Francis County. 
 
 Huntersville (134 miles) is a lit- 
 tle town just across the river from Little 
 Rock, with which it is connected by 
 ferry. 
 
 I^ittle Rock (135 miles), the capi- 
 tal of the State, is picturesquely situ- 
 ated on the top of a rocky bluff — the first 
 of those characteristic precipices which 
 are seen in the ascent of the Arkansas 
 River, 300 miles up. The Slate-Souse is 
 a handsome, rough-cast brick edifice. The 
 Peniienliary is located here, and also a 
 United States Arsenal. This was seized 
 by the State troops early in the war of 
 1861-'65. Big Rock, two miles above, 
 on the north bank of the river, is 200 
 feet high. The vicinity affords many 
 pleasant drives and rides. 
 
 The Hot Springs are 60 miles from 
 Little Rock, in a wild and almost inac- 
 cessible mountain-region. The valley, in 
 which the village is situated, is a mile 
 and a half long, running north and south, 
 between the Ozark Mountains. In the 
 middle of the day the sunbeams are like 
 a blaze, but an almost constant cool and 
 refreshing breeze renders the atmos- 
 phere at times cool and delicious. The 
 disappearance of the sun behind the 
 mountain-tops is followed by a lovely twi- 
 light, such as is found in but few places. 
 The mountain, from the side of which 
 the hot water issues, is on the east side 
 of the valley. About 600,000 gallons of 
 the fluid are discharged every twenty- 
 four hours into a creek which runs along 
 the base of the mountain. Fifty-four of 
 the springs have been tested in tempera- 
 ture, but there are many under the roads 
 and ledges that cannot be tested without 
 great labor. The largest spring dis- 
 charges 60 gallons a minute, at a tem- 
 perature of 156°, which will cook eggs in 
 fifteen minutes. 
 
 Little Rock is connected with St. Louis 
 by the Arkansas branch of the St. Louis 
 & Iron Mountain Raitway. Distance, 
 346 mUes. 
 
 213 
 
SlAIIOHS.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Alabaster Mountain. 
 
 nOUTE II. 
 
 LITTLE BOOK TO WOBT SMITH. 
 Via LitUe Boch & ToH Sndth Bailwa/S. 
 
 Statiohs: — ^Little Eock; Huntersville 
 (connects at Huntersville tvith Memphis 
 & Little Rock Railway, and steamers for 
 Memphis, New Orleans, and all points on 
 the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers) ; 
 Bartlett, 10 miles; Palarm, 17; Gold 
 Creek, 23 ; Conway, 30 ; Cadron, 39 ; 
 Hummer's, 44 ; Lewisburg (connects with 
 steamers and four-horse Concord coaches 
 with Van Buren, Fort Smith, Fort Gib- 
 son, and all points in the Indian Terri- 
 tory), 49. 
 
 Eiittle Rock. (See Route I.) 
 
 There are no places of importance on 
 this road, though the little towns along 
 the line are growing rapidly. The road 
 itself is well equipped, and will be com- 
 pleted through to Port Smith, 160 miles, 
 during the present year (1873). 
 
 Fort Smitb (150 miles) is a thriv- 
 ing village on the Arkansas River, 163 
 miles west-northwest, by land, of Little 
 Rock, and a few miles by the river above 
 Van Buren. It is a military post, and 
 has an extensive Indian trade. Fort Gib- 
 son is on the Neosho River, 23 miles 
 above Fort Smith. 
 
 EAILWATS BTJILDIN&. 
 
 The Arkansas Central Railway is now 
 in process of construction from Helena 
 to Little Rock, Ark., a distance of 100 
 miles, with branch from crossing of 
 White River to Pine Bluff, on the Arkan- 
 sas River ; connecting at Little Eock 
 with the Little Rock & Fort Smith Eail- 
 way, and the Cairo & Fulton Eailway ; 
 at Pine Bluff with the Little Eock, Pine 
 Bluff & New Orleans Railway. 
 
 There are also constructing : the IMtle 
 Hock, Pine Bluff d; New Orleans Railway, 
 160 miles long ; the Mississipjx, Washita 
 & Red River Railway, 170 miles long ; 
 the Kansas City <fc Fort Smith Railway, 
 100 miles long ; and the Cairo & Fulton 
 Railway, which is completed from Little 
 Eock to Poplar Bluff, a distance of 180 
 miles. Stages connect with the railways 
 for all points of consequence in Arkan- 
 sas. 
 
 214 
 
 Tan Bnren, the principal com- 
 mercial point in Arkansas, is 100 miles 
 weat-northwest of Little Rock, within five 
 miles of the Indian Territory. It is 
 pleasantly situated on the Arkansas 
 River. 
 
 Arkansas Post is upon the Ar- 
 kansas River, some 60 miles from its 
 mouth. It is an ancient settlement, hav- 
 ing been occupied by the French as early 
 as 1685. It was, for many years, the chief 
 depot of the peltries of the country far 
 around. Fort Himdman, a regular square- 
 bastioned work, mounting 12 guns, and 
 garrisoned by 5,000 troops, under Gen- 
 eral Churchill, surrendered to the Federal 
 forces under Admiral Porter and General 
 Sherman, January 11, 1863. 
 
 l\apoIeon, 125 miles southwest of 
 Little Eock, is upon the Mississippi Elv- 
 er, at the mouth of the Arkansas. It is 
 a busy and thriving place. The United 
 States Marine Hospital here is a conspic- 
 uous building. Boats running on the 
 Mississippi and Arkansas Rivers call 
 here. Passengers will find the best ac- 
 commodation the place affords on the 
 wharf-boat. 
 
 Camden is on the Washita River, a 
 tributary of the Red River, by which it is 
 reached by steamboat from New Orleans. 
 It is distant 110 miles by stage from Lit- 
 tle Rock. It was a place of large cotton 
 export and trade before the war. Popu- 
 lation, 3,500. 
 
 JBatesTille, with a population of 
 about 2,000, is upon the White Eiver, 
 400 miles from its mouth. Small steam- 
 ers ascend at nearly all seasons. Bates- 
 viUe is distant from Little Eock by stage 
 90 miles ; from Memphis, Tenn., 116 
 miles. 
 
 Helena is a prosperous town on the 
 banks of the Mississippi, in PhiUips Coun- 
 ty. It will soon be connected by rail 
 with Little Eock. In the summer of 
 1S52, Helena was almost entirely de- 
 stroyed by fire. It figured somewhat in 
 the late war. 
 
 Alaltaster nSonntain. — In 
 Pike County, on the Little Missouri Eiv- 
 er, there is a mountain of alabaster, of 
 fine quality, and white as new-fallen snow. 
 
 Naiural Bridge. — ^In the neighborhood 
 of Alabaster Mountain there is a remark- 
 able natural bridge formation. 
 
TSNNESBEE.] 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 [TEmtESSEE: BiTEB. 
 
 TENOTISSEE. 
 
 The territory which now forma the 
 State of Tennessee was settled before 
 any other of the lands west of the Alle- 
 ghanies, Fort Loudon having been built 
 by adventurers from North Carolina as 
 early as 1757. The early history of the 
 country is, like that of the neighboring 
 State of Kentucky, full of the records of 
 bloody struggles with the Indian occu- 
 pants of the soU. The little band of 
 pioneers at Fort Loudon were not, of 
 course, suffered to rest peacefully in their 
 new home; on the contrary, they were 
 all either butchered or driven away. In 
 a few years, the axe of the white man 
 again rang through the wild forests, and 
 cabins dotted the land, gradually cluster- 
 ing into villages and towns. Tennessee 
 was admitted, in 1796, as the sixteenth 
 member of the American Union. She 
 played a distinguished part in the War of 
 1812. 
 
 The landscape of Tennessee is varied 
 and picturesque, though none of the 
 great natural wonders of the Republic 
 fie within her borders. Her mountain, 
 valley, and river scenery is exceedingly 
 beautiful, and will become famous as it 
 becomes better known. The Cumberland 
 Hills, and other ranges of the Appalachian 
 chain, pass through her western area, 
 separating her from North Carolina, and 
 ehutting in the valleys of the Holston and 
 other rivers. The height of the mountain- 
 ridges and summits here is variously esti- 
 mated at frbm 1,500 to 2,000 feet. They 
 are most of them covered with a rich 
 forest-growth to the top, where the axe 
 and the plough have not changed their 
 native character. The central portion of 
 the State, stretching from the mountains 
 to the Tennessee Kiver, has a broken sur- 
 face, while beyond, toward the Missis- 
 sippi, which forms the western boun- 
 dary, the country is comparatively level. 
 
 Many valuable mineral products are 
 found in Tennessee : coal and iron in 
 great abundance, and rich deposits of 
 copper. Gold, too, has been detected, 
 and silver, lead, zinc, manganese, mag- 
 netic-iron ore, gypsum of superior quality, 
 and a great variety of beautiful marbles, 
 slate, nitre, burr-stones, and limestone. 
 Salt and mineral springs, the latter of a 
 very valuable character, abound. 
 
 The climate, excepting in the river low- 
 lands, is most agreeable and healthful ; 
 exempt alike from the winter severities 
 of the North, and from the summer heats 
 of the South. 
 
 Products. — ^Immense quantities of live- 
 stock are raised in Tennessee ; more, in- 
 deed, than in any other part of the Union. 
 It is, too, a vast tobacco, cotton, and 
 corn-growing region. The culture of 
 hemp, buckwheat, rye, oats, barley, ma- 
 ple-sugar, and many other agricultural 
 products, occupies the industry and con-, 
 tributes to the wealth of the people. 
 
 Papulation, Wealth, etc. — The popula- 
 tion of Tennessee, in 1860, was 1,109,- 
 801, of whom 283,019 were negroes ; and, 
 m 1870, 1,257,983, of whom 322,331 
 were negroes. The total valuation of 
 real estate and personal property in the 
 State, in 1860, was $882,495,200. In 
 1870 it was only $313,746,771. In 1872 
 there were computed to be 1,620 miles 
 of railway in Tennessee. 
 
 EIVEES. 
 The Xennesgee ISiTei* enters 
 the State at its southeast extremity, from 
 North Carolina, and forms the chief afflu- 
 ent of the Ohio. Its sources are among 
 the AUeghanies, in Virginia, flowing un- 
 der the names of the Clinch and the 
 Holston Rivers, until they unite at Kings- 
 ton, in Tennessee. The first course of 
 the main stream is southwest to Chatta- 
 216 
 
OlTMBEItLAND.] 
 
 SOUTjgEKN TOUR. 
 
 [Nashvule. 
 
 nooga, near the point where the States of 
 Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama meet. 
 I'rom Chattanooga it turns toward the 
 northwest, until the obstruction of the 
 Cumberland Mountains bends its current 
 southward again, and sends it off on a 
 detour of 300 miles into Upper Alabama 
 and the northeast corner of Mississippi. 
 It gets back to Tennessee at this point, 
 and, for the second time, traverses the 
 entire breadth of the State, crosses Ken- 
 tucky, and reaches the end of its journey 
 at Paducah, 48 miles from the mouth of 
 the Ohio. The length of the Tennessee 
 proper is about 800 miles ; including its 
 longest branch, the Holston, its waters 
 extend 1,100 miles. The only important 
 obstruction in the navigation of the Ten- 
 nessee is the 20-miles stretioh of rapids in 
 Alabama known as the Muscle Shoals. 
 (See Alabama.) Steamboats ascend the 
 river nearly 300 miles, to the foot of these 
 rapids, and above, to Knoxville, on the 
 Holston, nearly 500 miles. A railway 
 supplies the missing link in the passage 
 of the river, caused by the intervention of 
 the rapids. Knoxville and Chattanooga are 
 the principal places on the Tennessee. In 
 Alabama, Tuscumbia and Florence, and 
 in Kentucky, Paducah, are on its banks. 
 The upper waters of the Tennessee, and 
 all that portion of the river in the eastern 
 and middle parts of the State, are ex- 
 tremely beautiful, varied as the land- 
 scape is by wild mountain-scenes and 
 fertile pastoral-lands. In the nei^bor- 
 hood of Chattanooga, where the Lookout 
 Mountain lifts its bold crest, the scenery 
 is especially attractive. It would be dif- 
 ficult to find " more charming picture 
 than that from the summit of the Look- 
 out Mountain, over the smiling valley of 
 the Tennessee, and the capricious wind- 
 ings of the river. The chief tributaries 
 of the Tennessee, besides the two branch- 
 es from which it is formed — the Holston 
 and the Clinch — are the Hiawassee, from 
 Georgia, the Hatehee, and the Duck Riv- 
 er. All the waters of the State are ulti- 
 mately absorbed by the Mississippi, its 
 western boundary. 
 
 The €iiiii.1tei*Ia,n(l makes an ex- 
 tensive circuit of 250 miles through Mid- 
 dle Tennessee. It is navigable for large 
 boats to Nashville in good stages of wa- 
 ter. 
 
 216 
 
 MOUTH I. 
 
 LOmSVILLE, KY.^ TO ITASEVILLE, 
 
 Tmjf. 
 
 Via Zouisville t& JfasfbvilU and Great South- 
 em Railways. 
 
 Stations : — Louisville (connects with 
 railways diverging from Louisville) ; 
 Bardstown Junction (connects with 
 Knoxville branch), 22 miles ; Lebanon 
 Junction (connects with Bardstown 
 branch), 30 ; Elizabethtown (connects 
 with Elizabethtown & Paducah Railway), 
 42 ; Cave City (connects with stages for 
 Mammoth Cave), 85 ; Glasgow Junction 
 (connects with branch railway for Glas- 
 gow); Bowling Green, 114; Memphis 
 Junction, 118; Franklin, 134; Gallatin, 
 158; Edgefield Junction (connects with 
 Edgefield & Kentucky Railway), 175 ; 
 Edgefield, 184 ; Nashville (connects with 
 railways diverging from Nashville), 186. 
 
 This route, as far as Franklin, is iden- 
 tical with RoiTTE II. of Kentuokt. 
 
 Crallatin (158 miles) is a consider- 
 able place in Sumner County, near the 
 Cumberland River. It is well built, con- 
 tains several academies and churches, 
 and was the scene of one or two inci- 
 dents in the late war. Population, 3,000. 
 
 Gdgeiield Junction (176 miles) 
 is the point of junction with the Evans- 
 ville, Henderson & Nashville Railway. 
 
 Edgefield (184 miles) is a pleasant 
 little village, on the river, just opposite 
 Nashville. It was laid out in 1849. 
 
 IVash-ville (185 miles), the capital 
 of Tennessee, and next to Memphis the 
 most important city in the State, is most 
 agreeably situated on the south side of 
 Cumberland River, at the head of steam- 
 boat navigation. The principal portion 
 of the city is constructed npon a ridge, 
 the highest point of which is about 108 
 feet above low-water mark. The first 
 settlement was made in 1779-80 by a 
 party of North Carolina emigrants, and 
 the town established by act of the Assem- 
 bly of that State, May, 1784. Owing to 
 its healthy location, it is the resort of 
 numbers from the lower country during 
 the heat of summer. Both the public 
 and private buildings of Nashville arc 
 creditable to the taste and liberality of its 
 citizens. The Capitol may justly be con- 
 
KAssriuE.] 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 [Nashvilw. 
 
 sidered one of the finest edifices on the 
 continent. It is an elegant and imposing 
 structure, and covers an eminence which 
 rises to the height of 197 feet above the 
 river. The corner-stone was laid July 4, 
 1846. It is built of fine fossilated lime- 
 stone, much like marble, which was quar- 
 ried on the spot. Many of the blocks 
 weigh ten tons each. Its dimensions are 
 270 by 140 feet. Its architecture is Gre- 
 cian, consisting of a Doric basement, and 
 supporting on its four fronts Ionic porti- 
 coes, modelled after those of the Erec- 
 theum at Athens.' In the centre of the 
 building is a tower 80 feet high. The 
 basement or crypt of the building is used 
 as a depository of arms. The principal 
 story is approached by a double flight of 
 stairs, which lead to the chambers of the 
 Senate and House of Bepresentatives, the 
 Library, etc. The Senate Chamber is a 
 handsome apartment, 35 by 70 feet, with 
 a gallery, the columns supporting which, 
 and the desks, are of the beautiM East 
 Tennessee marble. The Sail of Represmi- 
 aiives contains sixteen fluted columns of 
 the Roman Ionic order, two feet eight 
 inches in diameter, and twenty-one feet 
 ten inches in height, from the level of 
 the galleries over the committee rooms. 
 The shafts of these columns are all in one 
 piece. The dimensions of this room are 
 100 feet by 70 — ^height of ceiling from 
 floor, 40 feet. The beauty and conven- 
 ience in the design of the principal story, 
 so much superior to the plan of the Cap- 
 itol at Washington, is, that the commit- 
 tee-rooms are on the same plan with, and 
 surrounding the Hall of Bepresentatives. 
 In the display of native marbles in this 
 hall consists the greatest attraction of 
 this magnificent structure. Flanking the 
 public hall, private stairways are con- 
 structed, leading from the crypt to the 
 various stories, and to the roof. A geo- 
 metrical stairway leads from the level of 
 the roof to the top of the tower, where 
 you land upon an arched platform, which 
 is intended for an Observatory. The 
 tower is built from the foundation of solid 
 stone, and contains four mcbes in the 
 basement and eight in the principal story, 
 with spacious halls leading to the right 
 and left. The Lihrary numbers upward 
 of 12,000 volumes. All the materials 
 used in the,construction of the Capitol 
 10 
 
 were furnished within the State. Its 
 cost was nearly $1,000,000. Judged by 
 the present standard of prices, it may 
 be considered one of the cheapest as 
 well as finest public buildings in. the Uni- 
 ted States. 
 
 The seat of government has been al- 
 ternately located at Columbia, Murfrees- 
 boro', and Nashville. The Inmalie Asy- 
 lum, built in 1833, and the Penitentiary, 
 are large, imposing buildings. The latter 
 has a front of 300 feet, and contains 200 
 cells. The City Hall occupies a promi- 
 nent location on Market Square. The 
 University of Nashville, founded in 180G, 
 is worthy a visit. Its Medical Depart- 
 ment, opened in 1851, has nearly one 
 hundred students. The mineral cabinet 
 of the late Dr. Troost is the richest pri- 
 vate collection in the United States. The 
 fine wire suspension bridge which former, 
 ly spanned the Cumberland Biver oppo- 
 site the city, and which cost $100,000, 
 was destroyed by the Confederate author- 
 ities, February, 1862. Nashville has two 
 theatres ; one on Cherry, near Cedar, and 
 the other known as the " New " Theatre, 
 comer of Union and Summer Streets. The 
 former is a well-conducted establishment. 
 The city has increased in population rap- 
 idly since the war, and now has 25,000 
 inhabitants. No less than eight daily 
 newspapers are published here. The so- 
 cial attractions of Nashville are not ex- 
 celled by those of any city in the South. 
 Nashville has immediate connection by 
 rail with all the principal cities north and 
 south, east and west. Boats to St. Louis 
 and Cincinnati semi-weekly. 
 
 The Hermitage. — The traveller while in 
 this vicinity should not fail to make a 
 pilgrimage to the spot sacred as the 
 hearthstone of General and President 
 Andrew Jackson. ' 
 
 Battle of Nashville. — On December 16, 
 1864, the Confederate General Hood 
 crossed the Tennessee, and after severe 
 fighting, driving General Schofield's army 
 before him, shut up General Thomas 
 within the fortifications at Nashville. 
 For two weeks little was done on either 
 side. When Thomas was fully ready, he 
 suddenly sallied out on Hood, and in a 
 terrible two days' battle drove the Con- 
 federate forces out of theirintrenchments 
 into headlong flight. The Union cavalry 
 217 
 
BriTioiTS.] 
 
 SOUTHERK TOUR. 
 
 [CHAOTANdOGl, 
 
 pursued them, the infantry following 
 close behind, and the entire Confederate 
 army, except the rear-guard, which 
 fought bravely to the last, was broken 
 into a rabble of demoralized fugitives, 
 which at last escaped across the Tennes- 
 see. For the first time in the war an 
 army was destroyed; and General Sher- 
 man, who had been awaiting in Atlanta 
 the issue of Hood's bold manoeuvre, then 
 started on his famous march to the Sea. 
 
 BOUTE II. 
 
 nvAmntLE, im>., to jsrAsaviiLE. 
 
 Via HvansDille, Smderson <£ JfaaJmUe Bail- 
 way. 
 
 Stations: — ^Evansville (connects with 
 steamer oil Ohio Kiver) ; Henderson, 12 
 miles ; Madisonville, 50 ; Nortonville (con- 
 nects with Elizabeth town & PaducahEail- 
 way), 62 ; Hopkinsville, 86 ; Pembroke, 
 96 ; Guthrie (connects with Memphis & 
 Louisville Eailway), 110 ; Springfield, 
 ISO ; Edgefield, 157; Nashville, 158. 
 
 This route enters Tennessee at Guthrie, 
 up to which point it is identical with 
 Route V. of Kenhickt. 
 
 Gutbrie (110 miles) is the point of 
 intersection with the Memphis branch of 
 the Louisville & Nashville Railway. 
 
 Sprinsfidd (130 miles) is a small 
 postal village, capital of Robertson Coun- 
 ty, on the Sulphur Fork of Red River. 
 
 Edgefield Junction (148 
 miles) is the point of junction with the 
 Louisville & Nashville Railway. 
 
 Nash'ville (168 miles) is described 
 in RoiJi£ L 
 
 During 1873 this road was consolidated 
 with the St. Louis & Southeastern RaU- 
 way, and forms part of a great through- 
 route from St. Louis to Nashville. 
 
 ROUTE III. 
 
 NASEYILLE TO CBATTANOOGA. 
 Via MastmiUe & ClhoUa/twoga Itadhoa/y, 
 
 Stations : — Nashville (connects with 
 Nashville & Decatur, Louisville & Nash- 
 ville, Edgefield & Kentucky, and Nash- 
 ville & Northwestern Railways) ; Mui^ 
 freesboro', 32 miles ; Wartrace (connects 
 with Shelbyville Branch), 55 ; Tullahoma 
 (connects with McMinnviile & Manchester 
 218 
 
 Eailway), 69 ; Estell Springs, 11 ; Dec- 
 herd (conneots with Winchester & Ala- 
 bama Railway), 82 ; Cowan, 61 _; Ander- 
 son, 102 ; Stevenson (connects with Mem- 
 phis & Charleston Railway), 113 ; Bridg- 
 port (connects with Jasper Brandh), 123 ; 
 Whiteside, 137; Chattanooga (connects 
 with East Tennessee '& Geor^a, and 
 Western & Atlantic Railways), 161. 
 
 Nasb-ville is fully described in 
 Route L 
 
 mnrireesltoro' (32 miles) is a 
 flourishing town, built in a beautiful and 
 picturesque valley. It is the seat of the 
 Union University (Baptist), established 
 in 1841. Murfreesboro' was the capital 
 of Tennessee from 1817 to 1827, when 
 the State-House was burnt. It is a pleas- 
 ant point at which to make a short stay. 
 At Stone River, one mile from the town, 
 was fought the battle of Murfreesboro', 
 on Stone River, on December 31, 1862. 
 This battle was one of the most deter- 
 mined and sanguinary of the war, about 
 10,000 men being killed and wounded on 
 each side. Both sides claimed the vic- 
 tory, though the advantages of the fight 
 rested with General Rosecrans, who 
 gained Murfreesboro', and advanced his 
 line, while General Bragg retreated to 
 Tullahoma. At MstervUle, 13 miles south 
 of Murfreesboro', are the remains of a 
 fort. Bridgeport is a strOngly-fortified 
 point at the crossing of Tennessee River. 
 
 Xnllaboma (69 miles) is an im- 
 portant railway station on Rock Creek, 
 in Coffee County. The McMinnviile & 
 Manchester road, 35 miles in length, and 
 connecting the thriving towns of Man- 
 chester and McMinnviile with the main 
 line, diverges at this point. 
 
 Stevenson, Ala. (113 miles), is 
 situated in Jackson County, near the 
 Tennessee River, and connects with the 
 Memphis & Charleston Railroad. 
 
 Cbattanoog'a (151 miles) was 
 made famous during the late war, and 
 from its historical associations alone is 
 worth a visit. It is the natural gateway 
 to the interior of the South, and as such 
 was hotly contested for by both hostile 
 armies. Perhaps no battles were harder 
 fought than those fought here, a loss of 
 " twenty thousand men killed outright " 
 having been reported after some actions. 
 Immediately in front of the town is tho 
 
Chattanooga. 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 [Chattanoooa. 
 
 celebrated Zooi:out Jfounlain, towering 
 above the city 1,400 feet. It was on this 
 mountain that the battle was fought 
 " above the clouds." The traveller who 
 climbs the picturesque turnpilie leading 
 to its summit enjoys a series of beautiful 
 views as he rises, and is rewarded, after 
 reaching the summit, with one of the most 
 extended prospects in the country. The 
 city of Chattanooga lies at its base, 665 
 feet above the mean tide at Mobile, and, 
 with its varied surface, presents a most 
 picturesque appearance. It is situated 
 on the southern banlt of the Tennessee 
 Eiver, which meanders through the plain 
 below, forming what is known as the 
 Moccasin, that is, the area enclosed by 
 the winding of the river, which resem- 
 bles, when seen from above, the Indian 
 foot-covering. The distant view is, how- 
 ever, the most striking, and one hardly 
 knows whether to credit the assertion of 
 the guide or not, that no less than seven 
 States may be seen from the summit of 
 Lookout Mountain. To the east the far- 
 stretching AUeghanies show the peaks in 
 Georgia, North and South Carolina, and 
 Virginia, whUe to the north the Cumber- 
 land Mountains are said to embrace 
 heights in Kentucky and Tennessee. To 
 the south the Racoon and Lookout ranges 
 show the battle-field of Cliickamauga and 
 the mountains of Alabama. At Point 
 Lookout, where all the sight-seers con- 
 gregate for this fine view, a photographer 
 has established himself, and lives there 
 by himself, beguiling the time, when not 
 occupied with visitors, in taking pictures 
 of beautiful spots in the mountains, and 
 gathering and preparing walking-sticks, 
 which he sells as mementos. The re- 
 mains of earthworks are seen on the 
 ridge ; and rifle-pits, now nearly filled up 
 by the washes of the winter-storms, are 
 still met with through the woods. The 
 Government used the Lookout Mountain 
 as a hospital post for convalescents. 
 The large buildings are still standing. 
 They are occupied in summer by visitors, 
 and afford accommodations for great 
 'numbers. The country around the 
 " Lookout " is extremely picturesque ; 
 the views all about the mountain itself 
 are admirable, and nothing can exceed in 
 beauty the charming valley of the Ten- 
 nessee and its waters, as seen from its lof- 
 
 ty summit. It is, too, in the immediate 
 vicinity of other remarkable localities, 
 the Dogwood Valley, hard by, and the 
 Nickajack Cave in Alabama. The scenes 
 on Lookout best worth visiting are Zalce 
 Sedusion, Luldh Falls, the £atile- Field, 
 and Jiock Oily. Guides are in attendance 
 throughout the visiting season. Lookout 
 Mountain is approached by a carriage- 
 road, dignified by the name of turnpike, 
 which winds up the hill-side, having no- 
 where a steeper gradient than 1^^ in 10. 
 It was in fine order when the Govern- 
 ment occupied the hospitals on the sum- 
 mit, but is not now so well cared for. 
 The wires of the Government telegraph- 
 line are still clinging to the trees, but no 
 use is made of them now. The follow- 
 ing brief outline of the operations at 
 Lookout, gleaned from the official report 
 of General Grant, will interest the reader : 
 The Battle of Lookout Mountain was 
 fought on the 23d November, 1863, be- 
 tween the forces under Hooker, consist- 
 ing of Geary's division (12th corps) and 
 2d brigade of Stanley's division (4th 
 corps) of Thomas's army, and Osterhaus's 
 division (15th corps) of Sherman's army. 
 Hooker scaled the western slope of the 
 mountain, and drove the enemy from his 
 rifle-pits on the northern extremity and 
 slope of the mountaui. The fight lasted 
 from ten to four p. M., when the Confed- 
 erates gradually withdrew, leaving their 
 artillery, etc. This battle has been great- 
 ly magnified. It was really nothing more 
 than an extended skirmish. On the night 
 of the 24th the Union forces maintained 
 an unbroken line, with open communi- 
 cations, from the north end of Lookout 
 Mountain through Chattanooga Valley, to 
 the north end of Mission Ridge. 
 
 Five railroads terminate at Chattanoo- 
 ga, viz. : from the north, the Nashville 
 Railway ; from the northeast, the Mast 
 Tennessee & G-eorgia ; from the west, the 
 Alabama <S; Chattanooffa Railway; and 
 from the south, the road from Atlanta. 
 Besides these, the new Cincinnati South- 
 ern will terminate here. 
 
 There are other special advantages 
 arising from the position of Chattanooga. 
 It is virtually at the head of navigation 
 on the Tennessee River, as above here 
 the river is obstructed by heavy shoals 
 and dangerous rapids for nearly 100 
 219 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Knoxtoue. 
 
 miles. The river-trade is yearly increas- 
 ing in importance. At high water de- 
 scending flat-boats arrive from many 
 hundreds of miles above — ^from Ken- 
 tucky, Virginia, and North Carolina, 
 laden with produce of all kinds, such as 
 com, wheat, and bacon. Rafts of saw- 
 logs also come here in great quantities, 
 and supply the saw-mills and the sash- 
 and-door factories of the place. The fu- 
 ture of Chattanooga depends, however, 
 mainly on her coal and iron resources; 
 and these are so inexhaustible as to af- 
 ford a basis for great permanent pros- 
 perity. Hotel ; (Jrutchfield Home. 
 
 ROUTE IV. 
 
 CHATTANOOGA TO ATLANTA, OA. 
 'Via Western, <6 AUamMc Xmhoay. 
 
 Stations : — Chattanooga to Chickamau- 
 ga, 10 miles ; Ringgold, 23 ; Dalton (con- 
 nects with Dalton Branch of East Ten- 
 nessee & Georgia Railway), 38 ; Resaca, 
 54 ; Adairsville, 69 ; Kingston (junction 
 of Rome (Georgia) Railway), 79 ; Car- 
 tersville, 91 ; Allatoona, 98 ; Marietta, 
 118 ; Atlanta (connects with railways di- 
 verging from Atlanta), 138. 
 
 Chattanooga. (See preceding 
 Route.) 
 
 Chickamanga (10 miles), in 
 Hamilton Comity, was the scene of a se- 
 vere battle between the Federal troops 
 under General Rosecrans, and the Con- 
 federates under General Bragg, fought on 
 the 19th and 20th of September," 1863. 
 The battle was desperate, and every inch 
 of ground was stubbornly fought for ; 
 but General Rosecrans was driven from 
 the field, and compelled to retreat into 
 Chattanooga. But for the invincible 
 firmness and skill of General Thomas, 
 who commanded Roseerans's right wing, 
 the Federal army would have been utter- 
 ly destroyed. The losses on botli sides 
 in this battle amounted to upward of 
 35,000 men. 
 
 The remainder of this route is de- 
 scribed as RoniE II. of Georgia. {See 
 page 150.) 
 
 220 
 
 ROUTE F. 
 
 BRISTOL TO CBATTANOOBA. 
 
 Via East Ten'OMaM, Virginia <£ Georgia 
 Sailway. 
 
 Stations ; — ^Bristol (connects with At- 
 lantic, Mississippi & Ohio Railway) to 
 Carter's,. 20 miles; Jonesboro', 82; 
 GreenviUe, 66 ; Rogersville Junction 
 (Junction of Rogersville & Jefferson Rail- 
 way, complete, 14 miles), 75 ; Russell- 
 ville, 82; Morristown (connects with Cin- 
 cinnati, Cumberland Gap & Charleston 
 Railway), 88 ; New Market, 105 ; Straw- 
 berry Plains, 114; Knoxville (connects 
 with Knoxville & Charleston Railway), 
 130; Concord, 144; Loudon, 158; 
 Athens, 185; Charleston, 200; Cleve- 
 land (connects with Balton Branch), 
 213 ; Ooltewah, 225 ; Chattanooga (con- 
 nects with railways diverging), 240. 
 
 Bristol is a lively village in Sulli- 
 van County, Tennessee, on the line be- 
 tween that State and Virginia. The 
 road connects at this point with the At- 
 lantic, Mississippi & Ohio Railway, which 
 extends northward and eastward to Nor- 
 folk Va. 
 
 OreeuTllle (56 miles) is a flour- 
 ishing post-village, capital of Greene 
 County. Greenville College, founded in 
 1794, is located here. 
 
 Rog-erST^ille (75 miles), the capi- 
 tal of Hawkins County, and at the junc- 
 tion of the RogermiUe & Jefferson Bail- 
 way, is situated near the Holston River, 
 255 miles east of Nashville. Steamboat 
 navigation is open on the Holston Irom 
 Knoxville to Kingsport, which is above 
 Rogersville. 
 
 Morristo'Wii (88 miles), in Jeffer- 
 son County, is pleasantly situated in a 
 fertile valley. It connects with the Cin- 
 cinnati, Cumberland Gap <& Charleston 
 
 StnoxTllIe (130 miles) is upon 
 Holston River, four miles from its junc- 
 tion with the French Broad, 185 miles 
 east of Nashville, and 204 miles south- 
 east of Lexington, Kentucky. It is con- 
 nected by the railway we are describing 
 with all the great routes of Georgia, to 
 the Atlantic, and with the highway to 
 New Orleans via Montgomery and. Mo- 
 bile, in Alabama ; also with Richmond, 
 
SlATIONS.] 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 [Meufhis. 
 
 Virginia, and all the great thoroughfares 
 of the country. The great route from 
 Boston and New York to New Orleans 
 now passes through Knoxville. The city 
 is delightfully situated, and affords a 
 pleasant place of resort. It was laid out 
 in 1794, in which year it became the 
 capital of the State, and so continued 
 untU1817. The University of East Ten- 
 nessee, founded in 1807, is a fine building. 
 The State Aayhim for the Deaf and 
 Dumb is also a prominent edifice. Popu- 
 lation, about 10,000. The place is fa- 
 mous for its manufacture of window-glass. 
 There is a short railway from Knox- 
 ville to Maryville, which is the first sec- 
 tion of the projected Knoxville & Charles- 
 ton Railway. The Knoxville branch of 
 the Louisville k Nashville Railway is 
 also building and will soon be completed. 
 
 ROUTE VI. 
 
 CBATTAWOOGA TO MEMPJUS. 
 Via Memphis <& Oharlesfon Jiailway. 
 
 Stations : — Chattanooga (connects 
 with Western & Atlantic and East Ten- 
 nessee & Georgia Railways) ; Stevenson 
 (connects with Nashville & Chattanooga 
 Railway), 37 miles; Bellefonte, 60; 
 Paint Rock (crossing of Winchester & 
 Alabama Railway), 76 ; Huntsville, 97 ; 
 Madison, 106 ; Decatur (connects with 
 JJashville & Montgomery Railway, and 
 with steamboats on Tennessee, Ohio, and 
 Mississippi Rivers), 121 ; Courtland, 140 ; 
 Tuscumbia (Florence Branch diverges), 
 164; Cherokee, 180; Bumsville, 202; 
 Corinth (crossing of Mobile & Ohio Rail- 
 way), 216 ; Pocahontas, 234 ; Saulsbury, 
 231 ; Grand Junction (junction of Mis- 
 sissippi Central Railway), 257 ; Moscow 
 (Somerville Branch diverges), 270 ; Bail- 
 ey, 289 ; Memphis (connects with Mem- 
 phis & Louisville, and Mississippi & Ten- 
 nessee Railways), 309. 
 
 From Chattanooga to Corinth, Missis- 
 sippi, this route has been described as 
 Route VIII. of Alabama, and in the chap- 
 ter on Mississippi. Corinth is the point 
 of intersection with the Mobile & Ohio 
 RaUroad. 
 
 O-riUid Junction (257 miles) is 
 the point of connection with the Missis- 
 gippi Central Railway. 
 
 moscoTV (270 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage in Fayette County, on the Wolf 
 River. A short branch road to Somer- 
 ville diverges here. 
 
 Athens (185 miles) capital of Mc- 
 Minn County, is a prosperous and grow- 
 ing town. It contains the county build- 
 ings, several churches and seminaries, 
 and numerous stores. Population in 
 1870, 1,800. « 
 
 Cle-reland (213 miles) is an active 
 town in Bradley County, of which it is 
 the capital. The surrounding country is 
 fertile and well watered, and is rapidly 
 improving. 
 
 Chattanooga, (240 miles) is de- 
 scribed in EoDiJE III. 
 
 IMenipItis (809 miles), the leading 
 city of the State, is finely situated on the 
 Third Chickasaw Bluff of the Mississippi, 
 at the mouth of the Wolf River, 209 miles 
 below St. Louis. It is in the southwest 
 comer of the State, upon the site of old 
 Fort Pickering. The city presents a 
 striking appearance as seen from the 
 water, with its esplanade several hun- 
 dred feet in width sweeping along the 
 bluff and covered with large warehouses. 
 It is the chief town on the Mississippi 
 between New Orleans and St. Louis. 
 Railways unite it at all points with the 
 neighboring country and with the most 
 distant towns north, east, south, and 
 west. The hotel accommodations are 
 ample, though by no means excellent. 
 The Theatre, corner of Jefferson and 
 Third Streets, is one of the best in the 
 South. It has seats for upward of 800. 
 There is steamboat connection daily with 
 New Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Louis- 
 ville , and all points on the Mississippi 
 and Ohio Rivers. The Memphis Library 
 Association has its rooms in the Post- 
 OfBce building, comer Third and Jeffer- 
 son Streets. The collection of books 
 numbers nearly 5,000. The city is di- 
 vided into eight wards. It contains 20 
 churches and 24 public schools, built 
 mostly of brick. The State Female Col- 
 lege is located at Greenwood, two miles 
 southeast of the city. The Memphis 
 Female College and St. Agnes Female 
 Academy are flourishing institutions, 
 Memphis was taken by the United States 
 troops during the late war (June, 1862) 
 after a brief period of resistance. The 
 221 
 
Stations.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Stations. 
 
 present population is over 40,000 and 
 is rapidly increasing. Hotels: Oayoao, 
 Worsham, and Commercial, 
 
 ROUTE rii. 
 
 MEMPHIS TO OTTTHBIE. 
 Via Mmnphia <Ss Zouisville BaMway, 
 
 Stations : — ^Mempkis ; Srownsville, 67 
 miles ; Humboldt (connects with Mobile 
 & Ohio Railway), 82 ; McKenzie (connects 
 with NashTille & Northwestern Railway), 
 113 ; Paris, 130 ; ClarksTille, 199 ; Guth- 
 rie (connects with Henderson & Nashville 
 Railway), 213. 
 
 Memphis is described in Route VI. 
 
 mnmliolilt (82 miles) is where con- 
 nection is made with the Mobile & Ohio 
 Railroad. It is a prosperous little town 
 in Gibson County. 
 
 McEenzie (113 miles) is at the in- 
 tersection with the Nashville & North- 
 western road. 
 
 Paris (130 miles) is the capital of 
 Henry County. It is situated in a rich 
 farming district, and has a lively trade. 
 
 Clarksviile (199 miles) is one of 
 the most prosperous towns in the State. 
 It is situated on the right bank of the 
 Cumberland River, at the mouth of the 
 Red River, about 50 miles northwest of 
 Nashville. A large tobacco-trade centres 
 here. Population in 1870, 3,200. 
 
 Outbrie (213 miles) is the last sta- 
 tion on this road in Tennessee going 
 northward, but the route is continued on 
 to Louisville in Route II. of Kentucky. 
 
 MOUTE nil. 
 
 NASHVILLE TO MONTGOMEBT, ALA. 
 Via NashviUe <&, Montgomery Bailway. 
 
 Stations: — Nashville; Franklin, 19 
 miles ; Thompson's, 29 ; Carter's Creek, 
 36 ; Columbia, 46 ; Pleasant Grove, 56 ; 
 Buford's, 61 ; Pulaski, 79 ; Prospect, 91 ; 
 Fort Hampton, 99 ; Athens, 107 ; Deca- 
 tur (connects with Memphis & Charleston 
 Railway), 122 ; Calera, 241 ; Montgomery, 
 304. 
 
 NasIiTmlle. See Route I. 
 
 I'rautklin (19 miles) is a small vil- 
 lage in Holmes County. 
 222 
 
 Coliuultia, (46 miles), the capital 
 of Maury County, and at one time the 
 capital of the State, is delightfully situ- 
 ated on the left bank of Duck River. It 
 is a flourishing town, distinguished by 
 the excellence of its schools. Among 
 the higher academies there a.teJackion 
 College, Maury Female Academy, Female 
 Aihenceum, and Conference College. Co- 
 lumbia was the home of President Polk 
 previous to his election in 1844. Popu- 
 lation in 1870, 4,838. 
 
 PaXaski (79 miles), the capital of 
 Giles County, is a thriving manufacturing 
 town, situated on a branch of Elk River. 
 
 Decatur, Ala. (122 miles), is de- 
 scribed in chapter on Alabama, {Bee 
 page 183.) 
 
 Montgomery (304 miles) is also 
 described on page 179. 
 
 JBOUTE IX. 
 
 MASHVILLE TO HIOXMAJST, KY. 
 Via HoBJi/ville & Hortlvioeefem Bailway. 
 
 Stations: — Nashville; Pegram, 20 
 miles ; Dickson, 42 ; "Waverly, 67 ; John- 
 souville, 78 ; McKenzie (connects with 
 Memphis & Louisville Railway), 119 ; Junc- 
 tion (connects with Mobile & Ohio and 
 Paducah & Gulf Railways), 162 ; Union 
 City, 166 ; Hickman (connects witii Mem- 
 phis & St. Louis Packets), 170. 
 
 IVasbTille. {See Route I.) 
 
 The towns on this railway are of little 
 importance, being in general simply sta- 
 tions on the road. 
 
 Kickman, Ky. (170 miles), for- 
 merly Mill's Point, the capital of Fulton 
 County, is on the Mississippi River, 36 
 miles below the mouth of the Ohio. It 
 has a lively trade, and is doing a good 
 shipping business. 
 
 B.OUTE X. 
 
 COLUMBUS, K7., TO COBIHTH, MISS. 
 Via Mobile <6 Ohio Railway. 
 
 Stations : — Columbus (connects with 
 St. Louis & Iron Mountain Railway) ; 
 Moscow, 13 miles ; Union City (connects 
 with Nashville & Northwestern Railway), 
 26; Troy, 31; Kenton, 43; Humboldt 
 (connects with Louisville & Memphis 
 Railway), 70 ; Carroll, 79 ; Jackson (con- 
 
COLUHBUS.] 
 
 TENNESSEE. [Cavks, Etc., of Tsnnesses. 
 
 nects with Mississippi Central Railway), 
 86 ; Pinson, 100 ; McNairy, 114 ; Bethel, 
 120 ; Corinth (connects with Memphis & 
 Charleston Railway), 143. 
 
 Goliuiilbn.s, Ky., is a thriving 
 town of Hickman County, on the Missis- 
 sippi River. It has a good trade, which 
 is rapidly increasing, and has a popula- 
 tion of 1,600. Columbus is just opposite 
 Belmont, where General Grant was de- 
 feated on September T, 1861, in an at- 
 tack on General Pillow. The battle was 
 an unimportant one. 
 
 ' Vnion City (26 miles) is a small 
 town where the Mobile & Ohio is inter- 
 sected by the Nashville & Northwestern 
 Railway. 
 
 Xroy (31 miles) is a pretty little vil- 
 lage, capital of Obion County, with a 
 population in 1870 of 500. It is the 
 southern terminus of the Faducah & 
 Memphis Railroad. 
 
 Kmnboldt (70 miles) is a post-vil- 
 lage of Gibson County, 82 miles east of 
 Memphis. Connection is made here with 
 the Louisville & Memphis Railway. 
 
 Jackson (86 miles) is a highly- 
 prosperous town, capital of Madjson 
 County. It is pleasantly situated on the 
 Forked Deer River, in the midst of a fer- 
 tile region, and has a large and growing 
 trade. There are several churches here, 
 and a flourishing college. Population in 
 1870, 4,119. Jackson is the starting- 
 point of the Mississippi Central Railway, 
 
 which runs to New Orleans, and is de- 
 scribed as Route II. of Mississippi. 
 
 Bethel (120 miles) is a little postal- 
 town in Giles County. 
 
 Corinth (143 miles) is described in 
 chapter on Mississippi. (See page 187.) 
 The road extends to Mobile, 329 miles 
 below Corinth. 
 
 Ca-ves, etc., of ^Tennessee. 
 
 While in Eastern Tennessee the traveller 
 should not fail to see some of the numer- 
 ous caves in the Cumberland Mountains. 
 Several of these are at least 100 feet below 
 the surface, and a mile in extent ; some 
 are several miles in length. One has 
 been descended upward of 400 feet 
 below the surface, where was found a 
 stream of suf^cient force to tui-n a mill- 
 wheel. Another, on the top of Cumber- 
 land Mountain, is of perpendicular de- 
 scent, and its bottom has never been 
 sounded. Big Bone Cave is so called 
 from the bones of the mastodon found 
 within it when first discovered. 
 
 Upon the Enchanted Mock, here, are 
 some singular impressions of the feet of 
 men and animals. In Coffee County, not 
 far from Manchester, there is an ancient 
 stone fort, enclosed by a wall, upon which 
 trees are growing, whose age is supposed 
 to exceed 600 years. This mysterious 
 fortification is situated between two riv- 
 ers, and occupies an area of 47 acres. 
 223 
 
Eehiuckt.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOXJB. 
 
 [ElOIIUCKT 
 
 KENTTJCKT. 
 
 " The highest phase of Western char- 
 acter," says Mr. Tuckerm'an, " is doubt- 
 less to he found in Kentucky, and in one 
 Tiew best illustrates the American in dis- 
 tinction from European civilization. In 
 the North this is essentially modified by 
 the cosmopolite influence of the seaboard, 
 and in the South by a. climate which 
 assimilate's her people with those of the 
 same latitudes elsewhere ; but in the 
 West, especially in Kentucky, we find 
 the foundations of social existence laid 
 hy tJie himter — ^whose love of the woods, 
 equality of condition, habits of sport and 
 agriculture, and distance from convention- 
 alities, combine to nourish independence, 
 strength of mind, candor, and a fresh and 
 genial spirit. The ease and freedom of 
 social intercourse, the abeyance of the 
 passion for gain, and the scope given to 
 the play of character, accordingly de- 
 veloped a race of noble aptitudes; and 
 we can scarcely imagine a more appropri- 
 ate figure in the foreground of the picture 
 than Daniel Boone, who embodies the 
 honesty, intelligence, and chivalrie spirit 
 of the State." The first visit of Boone 
 to the wilderness of Kentucky was about 
 the year 1769, at which period he and 
 his hardy companions made the earliest 
 settlement at Boonesborough. In \11i 
 Harrodsburg was begun, and Lexington 
 a year or two afterward. The pioneers 
 in their western forests met with all the 
 adventure their hearts could desire — 
 more, indeed ; for so great was their ex- 
 posure and suffering, for many long years, 
 from the cruel enmity of the savage popu- 
 lations, that the country came to be known 
 as "the dark and bloody ground." A 
 memorable battle was fought near the 
 Blue Lick Springs, August 19, 1'782, be- 
 tween the Kentuckians and the Indians — 
 an unequal and disastrous conflict, in 
 which the colonists were routed, with a 
 224 
 
 loss of 60 men, among them the son of 
 the gallant Boone. In Vl16 Du Quesne, 
 with his Canadian and Indian army, was 
 bravely repulsed at Boonesborough. Ken- 
 tucky came into the Union in 1792, being 
 the second State admitted after the Revo- 
 lution. During the war of 1861-^'65, Ken- 
 tucky, from her geographical situation 
 on the border, occupied a difficult and 
 delicate position. For a long time she 
 refused to side either with the North or 
 the South. On May 4, 1861, an election 
 for delegates to the Border State Conven- 
 tion was held, at which the vote was 
 overwhelmingly in favor of the Union. 
 The convention met at Frankfort on 
 May 27th. Volunteers from Kentucky 
 entered both the Union and Confederate 
 service. On July 4th the Louisvflle & 
 Nashville Railway, the mdn thorough- 
 fare of the State, was seized by the Con- 
 federate soldiers, and shortly afterward 
 closed. The towns of Hickman and Co- 
 lumbus were occupied by Confederate 
 troops under the command of General 
 Folk. On September 18th a skirmish be- 
 tween ZoUicoffer's troops and the Home 
 Guards took place near Barboursville. 
 By December 1st the number of Federal 
 troops in the State amounted to 70,000. 
 The forces of the enemy, under General 
 Buckner, were estimated at 80,000. Early 
 in 1862 active military operations were 
 commenced, and continued throughout 
 the year, when the campaign in Kentucky 
 was virtually abandoned by the Confeder- 
 ates. The physical aspect of Kentucky 
 is one of changing and wonderful beauty, 
 as the traveller will see in visiting some 
 of her marvellous natural scenes. The 
 Cumberland Mountains traverse the east- 
 em counties, and a fine of hills follows 
 the course of the Ohio River, with mead- 
 ow-stretches between, sometimes 10 and 
 even 20 miles in width. The State is weh 
 
Climate, Population, Etc.] 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 [LoniSTILLK, 
 
 supplied with coal, iron, and other min- 
 erals, A valuable silver-mine has been 
 discovered in the Nelson County knobs. 
 Seventy years ago two men knew of the 
 mine, and worked there, but died very 
 soon with their precious secret undiscov- 
 ered. 
 
 The chief agricultural staples of this 
 region are hemp, flax, tobacco, and In- 
 dian-corn. Of the first two of these 
 products, a greater quantity is raised 
 here than in any other State. In the 
 production of tobacco Kentucky is sec- 
 ond only to Virginia, and in the product 
 of Indian-corn she stands third in the 
 list. 
 
 The climate of the State is a medium 
 between the severity of the Northern 
 States and the enervating heats of the 
 South, there being but two or three 
 months of winter, and the spring and 
 autumn being mild and uniform. 
 
 Populaiion, Wealth, etc.— In 1860, the 
 population of Kentucky was 1,155,684, 
 of whom 919,484 were whites, 10,684 free 
 blacks, 226,483 slaves, and 33 Indians. 
 In 1870, the population is given by the 
 census as 1,321,001, of whom 222,210 
 were blacks. The taxable wealth of 
 Kentucky, in 1860, was $528,212,693 ; 
 and, in 1870, $423,766,099. In 1872, 
 there were 1,266 miles of railway. 
 
 EITEES. 
 
 The Obio 'Stiver forms the entire 
 northern boundary of Kentucky, and the 
 Mississippi washes all her western shore ; 
 thus giving her, with the aid of the many 
 streams which come from the interior of 
 the State into these great highways, the 
 greatest possible facilities for travel, and 
 for the transportation of her staples to 
 all markets. 
 
 The Kentacfay Kiver, like most 
 of the streams of the State, is remarkable 
 for picturesque beauty. Its passage, in 
 a course of 200 miles northwest to the 
 Ohio, is often through bold limestone 
 ledges, ranged on either side of the nar- 
 row, dark channel in grand perpendicular 
 cliffs. " Deepen Trenton Falls,'* says Mr. 
 WiEis, " for 100 or 200 feet, smooth its 
 cascades into a river, and extend it for 
 SO miles between perpendicular preci- 
 pices, from 300 to 600 feet high, and 
 
 only a biscuit-toss across at the top— 
 and you have a river of whose remark- 
 able beautv the world is strangely igno- 
 rant.'.' 
 
 The Cuialterland. Rirer is one 
 of the largest of the tributaries qf the 
 Ohio. It has its source in the Cumberland 
 Mountains, in the southeast comer of 
 the State, and flows 600 miles, making a 
 bend into Tennessee, and then traversing 
 Western Kentucky. It is navigable for 
 steamers 200 miles to Nashville, and 
 sometimes to Carthage, while small craft 
 may ascend 300 miles higher. About 14 
 miles from Williamsburg there is a fine 
 perpendicular fall of 60 feet. 
 
 The IdckXag JRiver flows from 
 the Cumberland Mountains, 200 miles, in- 
 to the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati. Steam- 
 boats may ascend 50 miles to Falmouth. 
 This river varies in width from 50 to 100 
 yards. Its banks are often lofty and 
 precipitous, covered with huge forest- 
 trees. The South Licking and the North 
 Fork are among its tributaries. 
 
 The Crrecn. Kiver is about 800 
 miles in length. It rises in the eastern 
 section of the State, and flows westward 
 for some 150 miles, through the lime- 
 stone-regions and by the Mammoth Cave, 
 finally entering the Ohio nine miles above 
 Evansville, Indiana. It is navigable in 
 high water, and, by the aid of locks 
 and dams, for steamboats, 200 miles to 
 Greensburg. 
 
 The Salt River, named in token 
 of the Salt Springs which abound in its 
 vicinity, enters the Ohio 22 miles below 
 Louisville. This is the fabled retreat of 
 defeated politicians and other unhappy 
 adventurers. 
 
 The Tennessee BBivep rises 
 among the Cumberland Mountaids of 
 Eastern Kentucky, and flows 70 miles 
 within the limits of this State. (See Ten- 
 '■■) 
 
 LOTJISVIIiLB. 
 
 Louisville, with a population of more 
 than 100,000, is the chief city of Ken- 
 tucky, and one of the most important in 
 the country. It is located at the Falls of 
 the Ohio, where Bear Grass Creek enters 
 that river. The topography is most 
 agreeable, affording fine views from 
 225 
 
LOCISVILLE.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR, 
 
 [Statioks, 
 
 many parts of the terrace elevation of 
 70 feet. The falls, which are quite pict- 
 uresque in appearance, may be seen 
 from the town. In high stages of the 
 water they almost entirely disappear, 
 and steamboats pass over them ; but, 
 when the water is low, the whole width 
 of the river, which is scarcely less than a 
 mile, has the appearance of a great many 
 broken rivers of foam, making their way 
 over the falls. The river is divided by a 
 fine island, which adds to the beauty of 
 the scene. To obviate the obstruction 
 to navigation caused by the falls, a canal 
 two and a half miles in length has been 
 cut round them, to a place called Ship- 
 pingsport. It was a work of immense 
 labor, being for the greater part of its 
 course cut through the solid rock. The 
 total cost of the work was little short of 
 a million dollars. The extent of the city 
 riverward is over two mUes. The course 
 of the leading streets is in this direction. 
 They are, for the most part, wide, well 
 paved, and shaded with trees. 
 
 The following are among the most 
 prominent buildings : the City Hall, the 
 Court-House, on Jefferson Street; the 
 Louisville University Medical College, 
 corner Ninth and Chestnut Streets ; the 
 Blind Asylum, Male and Female High 
 Schools, the Custom-House, and Post- 
 OfBce, corner Greene and Third Streets ; 
 and Masonic Temple, corner Fourth and 
 Greene. 
 
 Among the church edifices of the city, 
 the most noteworthy are : the Cathedral, 
 on Walnut Street, comer of Fifth ; St. 
 Paul's Episcopal, at the intersection of 
 Walnut and Sixth ; and the First Presby- 
 terian Church opposite. The First Bap- 
 tist Church is also an imposing structure. 
 The Mercantile Library contains up- 
 ward of 20,000 volumes. The collec- 
 tion of the Historical Society contains 
 many rare and valuable works relative to 
 the early settlement of the State. The 
 Louisville Theatre, another of the " in- 
 stitutions " of the city, is at the south- 
 east corner of Fourth and Greene Streets. 
 " Wood's " Theatre, also a popular place 
 of resort, is at the intersection of Jeffer- 
 son with Fourth Streets, Temperance 
 Hall, in Market Street, is used for lec- 
 tures, fairs, etc. The chief exports of 
 the city are tobacco, pork, hemp, and 
 226 
 
 flour. A visit to the tobacco-warehouses, 
 which are large and numerous, will repay 
 the stranger who finds himself with the 
 necessary leisure. 
 
 Hotels : The ImmviUe Hotel, on Main 
 Street, is a commodious and well-kept 
 house. The National and United Slatei 
 Hotels are centrally located. 
 
 TIOmiTT. 
 
 George D. Prentice, the journalist, 
 poet, and politician, ia buried in Cave 
 Hill Cemetery, near Louisville, a small 
 Grecian canopy resting on four columns 
 above his grave, with an urn in the cen- 
 tre, and on the top a lyre with a broken 
 string. ' He Ues beside his son, Courtland 
 Prentice, who was killed near Augusta, 
 Kentucky, during the war, while fighting 
 on the. Confederate side. 
 
 Jeflersonville, on the Indiana 
 shore, opposite Louisville, is the terminus 
 of the railway to Indianapolis, and a 
 place of much trade. 
 
 Portland is a village on the Ohio 
 River, at the foot of the falls, three miles 
 below Louisville. 
 
 Silver Creels, four miles below 
 the city, on the Indiana side, is a beauti- 
 ful rocky stream, and a favorite fishing 
 and picnic place of the Louisville rural- 
 izers. There is a small but fair hotel 
 here. It is reached by ferry from Port- 
 land. 
 
 Harrod's Creels:, eight miles up 
 the Ohio, affords a pleasant excursion. 
 The Lexington and Bardstown turnpikes 
 afford many pleasant drives through a 
 pretty and well-cultivated country. The 
 road along the borders of Bear Grass 
 Creek, in the direction of Lexington, is 
 very agreeable. The fine forest vegeta- 
 tion, the charming park-like groves, the 
 hemp-fields, and the bhie-grass pastures, 
 all help to furnish delight in the Louis- 
 ville rides and rambles. 
 
 ROUTE I. 
 
 LOmSVIILE TO aOYINGTON AND 
 
 LEXINGTOS: 
 
 Yia LowisvUle & ClnGinnati Short Zine Rail- 
 
 way. 
 
 Stations : — Louisville (connects with 
 Louisville & Nashville Railway); Fair 
 Grounds, 3 miles; Woodlawn, 7; An- 
 
Bbakch- Road.] 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 [Lexinotok. 
 
 chorage, 12; O'Bannon's, 14; Pewee 
 Valley, 16 ; Baird's, 18 ; Buckner's, 23 ; 
 Lagrange (connects Tf 1th Shelby Railway), 
 27 ; Lexington Junction, 28. 
 
 Bkanch . Road :— Jericho, 32 miles ; 
 Smithfidd, 35 ; Eminence (connects with 
 stages for ShelbyviUe), 40; /Belleview, 
 42 ; PleasureTille, 44 ; CSiristiansburg, 
 49 ; Bagdad 52 ; North Benson, 56 ; Ben- 
 son, 59 ; Frankfort (connects with stages 
 for Lawrenceburg, Salvisa, DanTille, and 
 Harrodsburg),' 65 ; Junction, 10 ; Duck- 
 er's, 12 ■ Spring Station, 75 ; Midway 
 (connects with stages for Versailles), 79 ; 
 Payne's (connects with stages for George- 
 town), 83 ; . Tamallton, 86 ; Lexington 
 (connects with Kentucky Central Railway 
 for NicholasviUe, and with stages for ail 
 points in Eastern Kentucky), 93. 
 
 Main Link (contimied) : — ^Pendleton, 32 ; 
 Sulphur, 36; Campbellsburg, 40; Mill 
 Creek, 45; Carrollton, 50; Worthville, 
 51 ; Eagle, 68 ; Liberty, 62 ; Sparta, 65 ; 
 Glencoe, 70 ;' EUiston, 76 ; Zion, 77 ; Ve- 
 rona, 84 ; Walton (connects with stages 
 for WiUiamstown), 89 ; Bank Lick, 92 ; 
 Independence, 97 ; Maurice, 102 ; South 
 CoTington, 105 ; Covington (connects 
 with railways diverging), 107. 
 
 liOnis'Fille has already been de- 
 scribed. 
 
 Itagrsaige) (27 miles) is a small 
 town where a branch road diverges to 
 ShelbyviUe. 
 
 ShelbyviUe, the county seat of 
 Shelby County, is a flourishing town, sit- 
 uated on Clear Creek, and on the old 
 turnpike road from Louisville to Frank- 
 fort. It is surrounded by a beautiful and 
 fertile country, has a large Court-House, 
 numerous churches, three flourishing 
 seminaries, and several manufactories. 
 Shelby College, of this place, was found- 
 ed in 1836, and has an honorable reputa- 
 tion. Population in 1870, 2,180. 
 
 Vrsmkfojrt (65 miles), the capital 
 of Kentucky, is situated on the east bank 
 of the Kentucky River, 60 miles above 
 its entrance into the Ohio. The site of the 
 town is a deep valley, surrounded by pre- 
 cipitous hills. The river flows between 
 deep limestone banks, the quarries of 
 which yield a fine stone or marble, of 
 which many of the houses are built. The 
 heights on the northeast aSbrd fine peeps 
 at the beautiful scenery of the Kentucky 
 
 waters. The ruins of the State Capitol 
 occupy an eminence, midway between the 
 river and the upper end of the valley. It 
 was a fine structure, built of marble, 
 quarried in the neighborhood. Here, 
 too, is the State Penitentiary. The town 
 is connected with the village of South 
 Frankfort, across the river, by a chain- 
 bridge. Population, some 6,000. During 
 the late war the city was occupied by 
 Confederate cavalry, on the 6th of Sep- 
 tember, 1862, but the damage to the 
 Capitol buildings was caused accident- 
 ally by fire in December, 1865. Stages 
 leave Frankfort for Lawrenceburg, Sal- 
 visa, Danville, and Harrodsburg. 
 
 Ilarrodslbiurg', a town of over 
 3,000 people, and the oldest settlement 
 in Kentucky, is upon an eminence near 
 Salt River, about 30 miles below Frank- 
 fort. The first cabin built in the State 
 was erected here by Captain James Har- 
 rod, in 1774. It is the seat of £acon 
 College, founded in 1836, and of a Mili- 
 tary Academj/. The greatest attraction, 
 however, of Harrodsburg, is its celebrated 
 mineral springs, which make it the most 
 famous summer resort in the State. Good 
 roads extend throughout the neighbor- 
 hood. 
 
 I^exington (93 miles from Louis- 
 ville and 100 from Cincinnati) is one of 
 the most opulent and beautiful of Ken- 
 tucky cities. Few inland towns of the 
 Union are more delightfully situated, or 
 afford greater attractions to the tourist 
 or traveller. It is on the lower fork of 
 the Elkhom River. In population and 
 trade it is the fourth city of the State. 
 The streets are regular, broad, well paved, 
 well built, and delightfully shaded. Here 
 is the seat of the Kentucky University, 
 on the ruins of Transylvania Univer- 
 sity, the Jmw and Medical schools of 
 which are held in high repute. It has an 
 endowment of $500,000. The University 
 Library numbers over 26,000 volumes. 
 The jSiate Lunatic Asylum occupies a 
 prominent locale. The city was founded 
 in 1776, and incorporated in 1782. Its 
 population in 1870 was 14,701. Lexing- 
 .ion Cemetery, in the west end of the city, 
 is a pretty, sequestered spot, much fre- 
 quented by visitors to Lexington. It 
 contains 60 acres, mostly woodland. It 
 was laid out in 1849, in what was ^nown 
 227 
 
dSHLAKD.] 
 
 SOXJTHEES' TQTTB. 
 
 [Njotpobt; 
 
 as Boswell's Woods, and dedicated June, 
 1850. About 4,000 interments had 
 been made up to 1866. The chief at- 
 traction of the place is the monument to 
 Kentucky's illustrious statesman, Henry 
 Clay. It stands on an eminence near the 
 centre of the ground, and can be seen for 
 miles around. The corner-stone was laid 
 July 4, 1857, and the structure completed 
 in 1860, at a cost of |50,000— the Btate 
 subscribing $20, 000. — Hotel : the Phemix 
 Some, wMch is an excellent hotel.- 
 
 AsItlanO, the home of Henry Clay, 
 is in the immediate Vicinity of Lexington. 
 The old Clay homestead stood abou* a 
 mile and a half from that city, and the lo- 
 cality is, of course, the chief object of in- 
 terest in this neighborhood. "Walk- 
 ing slowly and thoughtfully up," says Mr. 
 Greeley^ " a noble avenue that leads east- 
 erly from Lexington, the traveller finds the 
 road terminating abruptly in front of a 
 modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, only 
 two stdries in height, and of no great ar- 
 chitectural pretensions. Mr. day lived 
 at Ashland between forty and fifty years. 
 The place bore the name when he went 
 to it, probably, as he said himself, on ac- 
 count of the aSh-timber With Which it 
 abounds, and he made it one of the most 
 delightful retreats in all the West. The 
 estate is about 600 acres large, all ulider 
 - the highest cultivation, except some 200 
 acres of park, which is entirely cleared of 
 underbrush and small trees, and is, to use 
 the words of Lord Morpeth, who stayed 
 at Ashland nearly a week, the nearest ap- 
 proach to an English park of any in this 
 country. It serves for a noble pasture, 
 and here Mr. Clay had some of the finest 
 horses and cattle in America. The larger 
 part of the ferm Is devoted to wheat, rye, 
 hemp, etc., and the crops look most splen- 
 did. Mr. Clay paid great attention to the 
 ornamentation of the land with beautiful 
 shade-trees, shrubs, flowers, and fruit-or- 
 chards. • Prom thS IrOad which passes the ' 
 place oh the northwest side, a carriage- 
 way leads up to the house, lined with lo- 
 custs, cypress, cedar, and other rare trees. 
 and the rose, jasmine, and ivy, clamber I 
 about them, and peep through the grass 
 and the boughs like so many twinkling 
 feiries. The mansion is nearly hidden 
 from the road' by the surrounding trees ; 
 ■and is as quiet and secluded, save to-lihe l| 
 228 
 
 throng of pilgrims continually pouring 
 thither, as though it were a wilderness. 
 After the death of Mr. Clay, the estate of 
 Ashland was sold at public auction, but 
 Was purchased by James B, Clay, the 
 great statesman's eldest son, and go the 
 honored and beloved little homestead re- 
 mains yet, happily, in the family posse*, 
 sion. Let it be sacredly and forever pre^ 
 served!" The visitor i;o Ashland now 
 will find the scene much changed since 
 Mr. Greeley's visit. It is stripped of 
 much of its beauty. The old homestead 
 has been replaced by a house of more 
 pretentious style, but in other respects as 
 much like the old one as it was possible 
 to make it. It was occupied until re- 
 cently by the widow of the late Colonel 
 Clay, but has now been resold for a pub- 
 lic purpose. 
 
 Walton (89 mUes), which connects 
 by stage withWilliamstown, is a thriving 
 village in Boone County, containing two 
 tobacco-manufactories and several hun- 
 dred inhabitants. 
 
 Co-rington (lOV miles) opposite 
 Cincinnati, is, next to Louisville, 'the 
 chief city of Kentucky, with a populatioil 
 of about 25,000. It is upon the Ohio, 
 immediately below its point of conflu- 
 ence with the Licking. Across the latter 
 stream is the suburban town of Newport, 
 Across the river to Cincinnati there is A 
 great suspension bridge. This bridge, 
 which is upon the same plan as the Ni- 
 agara Suspension Bridge, is suspended 
 between two towers, one in Cincinnati, 
 and one in Covington, each 200 feet high. 
 Prom tower to tower is 1,05'7 feet, the 
 span being the largest in the world ; the 
 entire length is 2,252 feet, and its height 
 above low water is 100 ffeet. The city is 
 built upon a broad and beautiful plain, 
 very much after the topography of the 
 great Ohio city, opposite, to which, in- 
 deed, it may be regarded as suburHan, 
 This is the seat of the Western Theologi- 
 cal GoUega; a prosperous and richly-en- 
 dowed institution. There are here large 
 manufactories of heinp, silk, and tobac- 
 co, also' several large rolling-mHls. The 
 business of packing pork and beef is also 
 extensively carried. on. It is the northi- 
 ern tenuihus of the Kentucky Central 
 Railway. > 
 
 ]?lfe:wportj just across the Licking 
 
Stations.] 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 [LmsasTotr. 
 
 River from Covington, has a population 
 of 16,000. Like the neighboring cities 
 of Covington and Cincinnati, to which it 
 owea its prosperity, it is pleasantly and 
 advantageously situated. It will prob- 
 ably soon absorb the adjoining viUagea 
 of Jamestown and Brooklyn. A suspen- 
 sion bridge connects it with Covington. 
 
 nOUTE II. 
 
 ZOVTSVTZZE TO NASBTILLS ASD 
 
 MEMPBta, TEHTN. 
 
 Via Louimitte db Jfaahmille and JttmiphAs & 
 
 liOuiffDille RailwaySt 
 
 Stations : — Louisville ; Bardstown 
 Junction (connects with Bardstown 
 Branch), 22 miles ; Lebanon Junction 
 (connects with Knoxville Branch), 30 ; 
 Elizabethtowu (connects with Elizabeth- 
 town & Paducah Railway), 42 ; Cave 
 City (connects with stages for Mammoth 
 Cave), 85; Bowling Green, 114; Mem- 
 phis Junction (connects with Memphis & 
 Louisville Railway), 118. 
 
 Branch to Nashvii-LE. — ^Franklin, 134 
 miles ; Gallatin, 158 ; Edgefield Junc- 
 tion (connects with Edgefield & Kentucky 
 Railway), 175; Edgefield, 184; Nash- 
 ville (connects with railways diverging 
 from Nashville), 185. 
 
 Main Line (continued). — Memphis 
 Junction, 118 miles ; Russellville, 143 ; 
 Guthrie (connects with Edgefield & Ken- 
 tucky Railway), 164 ; ClarksviUe, 1T8 ; 
 Paris, 247 ; McKenzie (connects with 
 Nashville & Northwestern Railway), 264 ; 
 Humboldt (connects with Mobile & Ohio 
 Railway), 295 ; Brownsville, 320 ; Mem- 
 phis (connects with Mississippi & Ten- 
 nessee Railway, and steamers on the 
 Mississippi River), 377. 
 
 KionisTllle is described above. 
 
 Jtardstofvn. JTunctlon (22 
 miles) is the point where a short road 
 branches off to Bardstown, which is a 
 flourishing little town. 
 
 lidtanon Junction (30 miles) 
 is where the Knoxville branch diverges 
 from the main line. 
 
 Ittnmfordsville (73 miles) on the 
 right bank of Green River, is a place 
 often visited by tourists through this sec- 
 tion. Near the village is a remarkable 
 spring, and six miles east other natural 
 curiosities. The neighborhood was. the 
 
 scene of numerous encounters between 
 Generals Buell and Bragg, in tne cam- 
 paign of 1862. The fine bridge over 
 Green River, destroyed during the war, 
 has been replaced. 
 
 Cave City (85 miles) is the point 
 of departure for the Mammoth Cave, six 
 miles distant, with which it connects by 
 stage. Mammoth Cave is described far- 
 ther along in this chapter. ' 
 
 memphls Junction (118 miles) 
 is where the road forks, one branch ex- 
 tending to Nashville, and the other to 
 Memphis. From this point the former 
 of these is described as Roitte I., and the 
 other as Route VII. Of Tennessee. 
 
 MOUTE III. 
 
 tOVJSVILLM TO LITINaSTOB. 
 
 Via KTWXville branch of Loui»vUl6 t& 2^asli' 
 ville BaiMjoay. 
 
 Stations ; — Louisville ; Bardstown 
 Junction, 22 miles ; Lebanon, 67 ; Dan- 
 ville, 96 ; Stanford, 104 ; Richmond, 139 ; 
 Crab Orchard, 115 ; Livingston, 140. 
 
 As far as Lebanon Junction this route 
 is identical with the preceding one. 
 
 liCbanon (67 miles) is a flourishing 
 town, the capital of Marion County. It 
 contains a court-house, several churches 
 and seminaries, and a steam saw-mill. 
 
 Richmond (139 miles) is reached 
 by a short branch road. It is a hand- 
 some town, situated in the midst of a 
 beautiful and fertile district, and has a 
 flourishing trade. There are several 
 churches, an academy, and a. public li- 
 brary. 
 
 Rossersville^ near Richmond, was 
 the scene of a fight between General 
 Kirby Smith's forces and a small Federal 
 force, in which the latter were routed. 
 
 ILiiTxngston (140 miles) is the end 
 of the road at present, but, as work is 
 going forward at both ends, the gap will 
 soon be filled and the entire line to 
 Knoxville finished. This will then be 
 one of the most important lines in the 
 State. 
 
 229 
 
BlAIIONS.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUR. 
 
 [SlATIOHft 
 
 HOUTE ir. 
 
 COVmGTON TO LEXmGTOJTAND 
 mOBOLASVILLB. 
 
 Via Km/tiicJcy Central Haihoa^. 
 
 Stations : — Covington (connects with 
 Railways diverging from Cincinnati op- 
 posite Covington); Kyland, 12 miles 
 Benton, 18 ; Butler, 28 ; Falmoutb, 39 
 Boyd, 51 ; CyntHana, 66; Paris, 80 
 Hutchinson, 88 ; Lexington (connects 
 with Louisville, Cincinnati & Lexington 
 Eailway), 99; Nicholasville, 112. 
 
 CoTrtngton. (See Boute L) 
 
 This railway route from Covington to 
 Lexington runs southerly to the thriv- 
 ing towns of Falmouth,- Cynthiana, and 
 Paris. At Falmouth the road crosses 
 the south branch of the Licking Eiver, 
 along the banks of which stream the 
 road mainly runs as far as Cynthiana. 
 At Paris, 40 miles farther, is the conflu- 
 ence of the Houston and Stony Creeks, 
 which are also crossed over a stone via- 
 duct. 
 
 Failmontli. (39 miles), in Pendleton 
 County, is prettily situated on a beautiful 
 plain, watered by the Licking and the 
 South Branch, which here unite their 
 waters. The neighborhood abounds in 
 fine views. 
 
 Cyntbiana. (66 miles) on the south 
 fork of the Licking Kiver, is a flourishing 
 place, which was incorporated in 1802. 
 It has good accommodations for visitors, 
 and there is fine fishing in the vicinity. 
 Population in 1870, 1,111. 
 
 Paris (80 miles), the capital of Bour- 
 bon County, is the centre of one of the 
 finest farming districts of the State. The 
 manufacture of the famous Bourbon 
 whiskey is extensively carried on in sev- 
 eral large distilleries. To lovers of that 
 somewhat popular beverage, no stronger 
 inducement to sojourn here is deemed 
 necessary to mention. The Mhte JMk 
 Springs are reached by stage from this 
 point, and a short railroad extends to 
 Marysville, on the Ohio Biver. 
 
 I^exing^ton. (99 miles) has been 
 described in Route 1. 
 
 IWicIioIasviUe (112 inlles), the 
 capital of Jessamine County, is a thriving 
 230 
 
 town', situated on a small afSuent of the 
 Kentucky Eiver. The surrounding coun- 
 try is fertile and well cultivated, and 
 Nicholasville has a good trade. PcpuJa- 
 tion about 1,100. 
 
 MOUTE V. 
 
 HENBEZSON TO NASHVILLE, 
 
 TENN. 
 
 St. Louis & Southeastern BaUway. 
 
 Stations : — Henderson (connects by 
 ferry with Evansville); Madisonville, 
 38 miles ; Nortonville (connects with 
 EHzabethtown & Faducah Railroad), 60 ; 
 Hopkinsville,' 1i ; Pembroke, 84 ; Guth' 
 rie (connects with Memphis & LouisviUo 
 Railroad), 98 ; Springfield, 118 ; Edge 
 field Junction, 127 ; Nashville, 146. 
 ' Henderson, is a flourishing town 
 on the Ohio Eiver, capital of Henderson 
 County. • It is surrounded by a fertile 
 country, the productions of which are re- . 
 ceived here for exportation. Steamboats 
 ply regularly between Henderson and 
 Louisville. There are five or six church- 
 es here, a bank, several large factories 
 and numerous stores. It is on the direct 
 line between St. Louis and NashviUe. 
 
 Madisonfille (38 miles) is a 
 pretty little village, county-seat of Hop- 
 kins County. 
 
 Pembroke {1i miles) is a post- 
 village of Christian County. 
 
 Cruthrie (98 miles) is the point of 
 intersection with the Memphis & Louis- 
 ville Eailway. 
 
 IVasbT^ille (146 miles) is described 
 in chapter on Tennessee. 
 
 MOUTE ri. 
 
 ELIZABETETOWM TO PADUOAS. 
 
 Via Mifsabethtown <& Paduaah Pailroad. 
 
 Stations : — Elizabethtown (connects 
 with Louisville & Nashville Eailway); 
 Leitchfield, 30 miles ; Eoekport, " 11; 
 Owensboro' Junction (connects with 
 Owensboro' & Eussell Eailway), 86; 
 Greenville, . 93 ; Nortonyille (connects 
 with Henderson & Nashville Railway), 
 110 ; Cumberland Eiver, 168 ; Clear 
 Pond, 165; Padueah (connects with Pa- 
 ducah & Memphis Eailway), 185. > 
 
Emzabkthiown.] 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 [Mammoth Cavb, 
 
 Eliza1>etIito'nrit is a station on 
 the main line of the Louisville & Nash- 
 ville Railway, 42 miles below LouisviBe. 
 
 Rockport (1'J miles) is a flourish- 
 ing town on Green Kiver, where the rail- 
 way crosses that stream. 
 
 IVortonTille (110 miles) is at the 
 junction with the St. Louis and South- 
 eastern Railway. 
 
 PaducaJh (185 miles) is upon the 
 Ohio, just below the mouth of the Ten- 
 nessee, 340 miles from Louisville, and 473 
 miles from Cincinnati. Paducah bears 
 the name of an Indian chief who once 
 lived in the neighborhood. On account 
 of its favorable situation at the conflu- 
 ence of two great rivers, it was a point 
 of much importance during the war, for 
 the shipment of ammunition and sup- 
 plies, and was early occupied by the 
 Federal troops. General Forrest made 
 an unsuccessful attack on the place, 
 March 25, 1864. 
 
 MOUTE rii. 
 
 PADUOAir TO TliOJ. 
 Via Paducah & MempliM BaMway. 
 
 Stations : — Paducah ; Mayfield, 26 
 miles ; Fulton, 50 ; Paducah Junction 
 (connects with Nashville & Northwestern 
 Railroad), 59; Troy (connects with Mo- 
 bile & Ohio Railroad), 63. 
 
 Paducah is described in Route VL 
 
 Padncali Junction (59 miles) 
 is the point of junction with the Nash- 
 ville & Northwestern Railway. 
 
 Xroy, Xenn. (63 miles), is on the 
 Mobile & Ohio Railroad, and is the pres- 
 ent terminus of the Paducah & Memphis 
 Railway. 
 
 MAMMOTH GATE, AlfCIENT MOUTTDS, 
 AND OTHEE TJATUKAL WOISTDEES. 
 
 Xlie mammoth Cave. — Among 
 the many resorts and objects of interest 
 with which Kentucky abounds, the most 
 noteworthy, as well as most frequented, 
 is this famous cavern. The route thither 
 is not difficult. Tourists from the East- 
 em cities will best reach it via Cincin- 
 nati and Louisville, thence by the Louis- 
 ville & Nashville Railway (Route IL) to 
 Cave City, 8S miles south of Louisville. 
 
 This point is within 9 miles of the mouth 
 of the cave. From the south and west, 
 travellers will of course take the railway 
 from Nashville for Cave City. Steamers 
 ply ou the Green River from Louisville to 
 within the distance of a mile only of the 
 cave. Parties arriving at Cave City by 
 the night trains can " lay over " (as the 
 period of rest is technically known in this 
 vicinity) at the hotel there, and proceed 
 to the cave the following morning. A 
 stage connects with each train during the 
 season — fare, $1 ; carriages and horses 
 for hire. The cave is believed to extend 
 under the ground passed over in the 
 route of nine miles from the railway sta- 
 tion. Four miles from Cave City, the 
 visitor will pass a small cave on the left 
 of the road, known as the Indian Cave. 
 It contains some of the most beautiful 
 specimens of the stalactite and stalagmite 
 formations to be found in the cave-re- 
 gion. In size, however, it is a mere pig- 
 my beside its gigantic neighbor, the 
 Mammoth. The approaches have been 
 sadly interfered with during the war. It 
 is proposed to restore them and the cave 
 to their original condition, and, if possible, 
 to improve them. The proprietor, Sam- , 
 uel B. Young, resides at Cave City. The 
 Cave Hotel, as before stated, is nine miles 
 from the railway-station, and is reached 
 with ease in two hours when the roads 
 are in good order, which of late years 
 has not been the case. Recent additions 
 and improvements have been made, and 
 visitors will now find it a pleasant stop- 
 ping-place. 
 
 A short walk from the hotel brings us 
 to the mouth of the cave. The journey 
 through these stupendous vaults and 
 passages is often long and toilsome, de- 
 spite the marvels which everywhere be- 
 guile the way. As it takes days to see 
 these wonderful scenes, so it would re- 
 quire many pages to describe them, which 
 fact compels us to be content with the 
 briefest catalogue of the chief points of 
 interest. Accompanied by a guide (it is 
 not safe to attempt the passage without 
 one), and aided by a lighted flambeau, or 
 oil-lamp, the visitor may now set out on 
 his underground journey. After explor- 
 ing the narrows, antechambers, and the 
 Avdiibon Avenue, which is a mile in 
 length, 60 or 60 feet high, and as many 
 231 
 
Maumotb Gath.] 
 
 SOOTHERIT TOTTB. 
 
 [Kahuoih GatC. 
 
 "wide, we return and pass through the 
 Vestibule far' a second time, entering the 
 main cave, or Grand Gallefy, a mighty 
 tunnel of many miles' extent. The JCen- 
 tueky Cliffs passed, we descend some 20 
 feet to the Boiwnda, and thence to an- 
 other apartment immediatelyunderneath 
 it, known as the Church. This is a grand 
 apartment, 100 feet in diameter, with a 
 roof formed of one solid, seamless roek, 
 suspended 63 feet overhead. Nature has 
 supplied these solemn halls with a natu- 
 ral pulpit, and a recess where a mighty 
 organ' and a countless choir could be 
 placed, Beligious services have bean 
 perforilied in the " dim religious light " 
 of torches, Under this magnificent roof. 
 The Gothic Avenue is reached by a dHowr 
 from the main cave, and a descent of 
 some 30 feet. It is two miles in length, 
 40 feet wide, and IS feet high. This 
 place was once called the Hawnited Cham- 
 her. Zomsa's Boweir, Vidcan's Stithy, 
 and the new and old Megister Hoorm, are 
 now passed in succession. The Gothic 
 CAope? rivals all the marvels of the high- 
 est and nicest art, in the strength, beau- 
 ty, and proportions of its grand columns, 
 and its exquisite ornamentation. The 
 Devil's Arm Chair is a large stalagmite 
 pillar, in the centre of which is a spacious 
 seat, grand enough for the gods. After 
 passing numerous other stalactites and 
 stalagmites, we look, in succession, at 
 Napoleon's JBreaslwork, the Mephant's 
 Mead, and the Lover's Leap. This last 
 scene is a large pointed rock, more than 
 90 feet above the floor, and projecting 
 into a grand rotunda. Just below the 
 Lover's Leap, a detour may be made to 
 the lower branch of the Gothic Avenue, 
 at the entrance of which we see an im- 
 mense flat rook, called Galtewood's Dining- 
 Eoom, ; and to the right, a beautiful basin 
 of water, named the Cooling~Tvh. Be- 
 yond is T'li'nt Pit. Still pursuing our 
 detour, we pass, one after ' the other, 
 Napoleon's jDome, the Cinder Banks, the 
 Crystal Fool (Lake Purity), Salt Cave, 
 and a wonderful place,' still beyond, called 
 Annetli's Dotni, through a crevice of 
 which is a waterfall. Eeentering the 
 main or' Grand Avenue, we arrive soon 
 at the Ballroom, where Nature has pro- 
 vided every necessary fitting of gallery 
 and orchestra. Willie'a ^ring has its 
 232 
 
 pleasant storyj which will delight the 
 wondering visitor, until he is almost pet- 
 rified with astonishment at the sight 
 of the great rook, known as ,the Giant' a 
 Coffin. ■ Here begin the incrustations, 
 ever varied in form and character, which 
 are so much the delist of all visiters. 
 The Giant's Coffin passed^ we sweep round 
 the Great Bend. Opposite- is the Sick- 
 Room. The Star Chamber: js a splendid 
 hall, -with perpendicular arches on each 
 side, and a flat roof. In the main avenue 
 the side rocks are of a light colory and 
 are strongly relieved against the dark 
 ceiling, which is covered With ooimtless 
 sparkling substances resembling stars. 
 By a judicious display of lamps and Bertr 
 gal lifihts in this apartment, an almost 
 magical effect is produced. It forms one 
 of the most — ^to many, the most^-attrao- 
 tive feature of the cave. Wright's BotiM- 
 (fa (the Gross-Koom) has a ceUing of 400 
 feet span, and yet not a single pillar to 
 uphold it. The Black ChanSers contain 
 ruios which remind us of old baronial 
 castle walls and towers. Through the 
 Big Chimneys we ascend into an upper 
 room, about the size of the main cave. 
 Here are heard the plaintive whispers of 
 a distant waterfall; as we come nearer, 
 the sound swells into a grand roar, and 
 we are close to the cataract. To enter 
 the place called the Solitary Chamber, by 
 the way of the Humble Chute, we have 
 to craTrl upon our hands and knees for 
 15 or 18 feet beneath a low arch. Here 
 is the Fairy Grotto, the character of ' 
 which admirably realizes the promise of 
 its name. The Chief City (Temple) in 
 the main cave (Grand Avenue) beyond 
 the Bocky Piss is 200 feet in diameter, 
 and 40 feet high. The floors are piled 
 ■with rock, which give it the appearance 
 of a ruined city. Other localities, ,in the 
 direct passage of the cave,, as in soine 
 of the many dHmtrs, are appropriately 
 named the Ste^s of Time, the CoveredPit, 
 the Side-Saddle, the Bottomless Pit, the 
 Labyrinth, the Lead Sea, and the Bain- 
 difs Hall. ' '..■•.■ 
 
 The Long Route. — On entering Upoft the 
 Long Route, the visitor leaves the main 
 cave at the foot of the Giant's Coffin, and 
 passes into the ■ Deserted Chamber^ The 
 distance from the mouth of the cave to 
 the Maelstrom, at the end of the Long 
 
Mammoth Gate,] 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 [CDMBEnLAND GaP. 
 
 Koute, is nine miles. Passing Wooden- 
 Sowl Cave, Martha's Palace, and Shelby's 
 Dmne, we cross the Bridge of Sighs, and 
 enter another apartment, where those 
 who frequent the cave, and are therefore 
 supposed to know something of its mys- 
 teries, are in the habit of resting in 
 a narrow, tortuous avenue, called and 
 known as Eevellers^ Hall. Fal Man's 
 Misery appropriately follows the Hall of 
 Feasting and Revelling. Crossing the 
 river Slyx by a natural bridge, we reach 
 Lake Lethe, which visitors, desiring to 
 extend their explorations further, cross 
 in boats. From Lake Lethe the visitor 
 is introduced to the Great Walk, at the 
 termination of which he can take a boat 
 on Echo Kiver, which has a course of 
 three-quarters of a mile within the cave, 
 and finally finds its outlet in Green River. 
 SiSiman's Avenue is still beyond. Par- 
 ties visiting the cave in sufBcieut num- 
 bers, and accompanied by a band, fre- 
 quently sojourn here and enjoy the fes- 
 tivities of the JBallroom. 
 
 Visitors, if they feel so disposed, may 
 travel 200 miles in the different avenues 
 and labyrinthine walks of this wonderful 
 cave. Proper care will insure against all 
 risk of danger. Colds, instead of being 
 contracted, are more often cured by the 
 visit. Nowhere is the air in the slightest 
 degree impure. So free is the cave from 
 reptiles of every kind, that St. Patrick 
 might be supposed to have exerted his 
 fabled annihilating power in its favor. 
 Combustion is everywhere perfect. No 
 decomposition is met with. The waters 
 of the springs and rivers of the cave are 
 habitually fresh and pure. The tempera- 
 ture is equable at all seasons, at 69° 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 While's Cave is situated about half a 
 mile from the Cave Hotel. It is remark- 
 able for the beauty of its stalactite for- 
 mations. It is easUy explored, being but 
 BOO yards long. 
 
 Diamond (Richerson's) Cave lies on 
 the road to Indian and Mammoth Caves, 
 half a mile west of the railway. Its 
 phief beauty is its stalactite formations. 
 
 The descent into the hitherto unex- 
 plored pit in the Mammoth Cave was 
 made recently by Mr. A. D. Babbitt, a 
 telegraph-operator from Michigan. He 
 found bottom at a distance of 198 feet 
 
 from the main avenue. The descent was 
 witnessed by about 200 guests of the ho- 
 tel, who welcomed the daring young ad- 
 venturer back with cheers and congratu- 
 lations. The rope, with which he was 
 lowered in the pit, was dangerously cut 
 in several places by the rocks which it 
 had passed. 
 
 The Mammoth Cave is offered for sale 
 for $600,000, and some capitalists in 
 Louisville have lately been talking of 
 foi'ming a company and buying it, put- 
 ting up a new and splendid hotel on the 
 premises in place of the present building, 
 and otherwise improving the property. 
 Something ought to be done toward 
 making this greatest, perhaps, among 
 the wonders of the world more general- 
 ly visited than it is now. 
 
 Tbe Sink-ISoIes of Keii> 
 Aucky. — Of these curious cavities or 
 depressions in the surface of the ground, 
 known as sinks, remarkable examples 
 are found in Kentucky. Sinking Creek, 
 in Breckenridge County, suddenly disap- 
 pears, and is not seen again within a dis- 
 tance of half a dozen miles. Near Mum- 
 fordsville, in Hart County, there is a 
 strange spring connected with a mill- 
 pond, the waters of which overflow the 
 dam every 24 hours, rising 12 or 15 inch- 
 es, and receding to their ordinary level 
 with the precision of the tides. Six miles 
 east of the same town there is a hole, in 
 form like an inverted cone, which is 'TO 
 feet in diameter at the surface, and but 
 10 or 12 feet across at a depth of 26 or 
 30 feet. Stones cast into this pit give 
 no indication of touching the bottom. 
 There is yet another extraordinary sink 
 in this neighborhood, on the top of an 
 elevation, called Frenchman's Knob. It 
 has been descended, by means of a rope, 
 275 feet, but without finding bottom. 
 
 Natnral Bridgre. — Tliere is an 
 extraordinary natural bridge in the ro- 
 mantic county of Christian. It is 130 
 feet high, with a span of 70 feet. Dis- 
 mal Rock is a frowning precipice, 160 
 feet high, in Edmonson County. 
 
 Cnin1>erlaii<l Oap. — This pas- 
 sage of the Cumberland River through 
 the mountains, in Knox County, 150 miles 
 south of Lexington, is an imposing scene. 
 The waters make their way between huge, 
 cliffs, 1,300 feet in height. This famous 
 238 
 
WATEEFiiLLB.] 
 
 SOUTHEBN TOUE. 
 
 [IiEHONIAN SHtlHOa 
 
 gap gained considerable prominence dur- 
 ing the campaign in Kentucky. It was 
 surrendered to the Federal forces under 
 General Shackleford, September T, 186S. 
 
 tVaterfalls. — Besides the cas- 
 cades of the Indian Creek, near Poplar 
 Mountain, of which we have already made 
 mention, there are numerous beautiful 
 waterfalls among the hills of Kentucky. 
 The Kenlick Creek, in Cumberland County, 
 presents some fine pictures of this kind. 
 The traveller must not overlook, either, 
 if his time serves for the exploration, the 
 Hock Rome in Cumberland, the Indian 
 Mock in Edmonson, Filot Sock in Chris- 
 tian, and the ^lat and the Anvil Mocks 
 in Union County. 
 
 The mounds and fortifica- 
 tions, which are numerous in Ken- 
 tucky, afford employment enough for the 
 antiquarian tourist. In AUen County, 11 
 miles from Bowling Green, there is a wall 
 of solid limestone 200 yards in length, 40 
 feet high ; at its base 30 feet thick, and 
 at its summit sii: feet. It crosses a neck 
 formed by a curve in Drake's Creek, and 
 shuts in a peninsula of about 200 acres, 
 elevated 100 feet above the river. Upon 
 the crown of this eminence, an area of 
 three acres is surrounded by a wall and 
 ditch, making the place a fortress of im- 
 mense strength. Other strange ancient 
 works may be found in Warren, Spencer, 
 Boone, La Hue, Montgomery, Barren, and 
 Bourbon Counties. 
 
 Harrodsbnrg: Springs. — 
 This is one of the most fashionable wa- 
 tering-places of Kentucky, and is, during 
 the season, " the grand field of tourna- 
 ment for Western flirtation, and the gath- 
 ering-point for politicians out of harness, 
 and for such wealthy Westerners and 
 Southerners as like to spend their money 
 on the side of the Alleghanies that slopes 
 toward home." The hotel here, with all 
 its surroundings and appointments, is 
 most admirable. These springs are near 
 Harrodsburg, which is reached by stage 
 from Frankfort, 30 miles. 
 
 Knob Icicle is an interesting spot 
 within excursion distance (16 miles) of 
 the Harrodsburg Springs. The knobs or 
 hillocks here are from 100 to 200 feet 
 high, more or less conical ; some of them 
 insulated, others •connected by crumbling 
 isthmuses ; the whole formiug a group of I 
 234 
 
 barren conoidal eminences, which are 
 finely contrasted with the deep verdure 
 of the surrounding plain. 
 
 The UeTil's Pulpit is a wonder- 
 ful passage in the bold landscape of the 
 Kentucky Biver. It Is accessible from 
 Harrodsburg in a twenty-mile excursion. 
 The Mue lack firings is a watering- 
 place of high repute, on the Licking Riv- 
 er, in Nicholas County. These springs 
 contain soda, magnesia, lime, sulphu- 
 retted hydrogen, and carbonic acii^ in 
 combination with muriates and sulphates. 
 A battle was fought here between the 
 settlers and Indians, August 19, 1782. 
 
 Drennon Spring's (black and 
 salt sulphur) are upon the bajiks of the 
 Kentucky, in Henry County. They may 
 be reached by steamboat from Louis- 
 ville. 
 
 Poplar mountain Springs 
 are upon the Poplar Mountain top, in 
 Clinton County, four miles from Albaiiy. 
 The scenery in this vicinage is remark- 
 able for its beauty. Upon Indian Greek, 
 not far from the springs, there is a per- 
 pendicular waterfall of 90 feet. 
 
 The IWhite Snlpbur Springs 
 are in Grayson County, four miles from 
 Litchfield, on the Elizabethtown & Padu- 
 cah Railway. They are very numerous, 
 within a small area. 
 
 The Xar and Breckenridge 
 IVbite Sulphur Springs are 
 in Breofcenridge County, four miles from 
 Cloverport. They are readily accessible 
 from the Ohio River. The Breckenridge 
 coal is found in this vicinity. 
 
 The Xar and Sulphur 
 Springs are upon Green Biver, in 
 Davis County, near the "Old Vernon 
 Settlements." There are other springs 
 of reputation in this vicinity. The &cu- 
 lapia Springs (chalybeate and white sul- 
 phur) are in a beautiful valley of Lewis 
 County. 
 
 The Pox and Phillips 
 Springs are in the abundant spring- 
 region of Fleming County. 
 
 The liettonian Springs (sul- 
 phur) are upon the Bank Lick road, 
 near the Ohio River, and about four 
 miles from Covington. This is a pleas- 
 ant excursion-point from Cincinnati. 
 The Parroquet Springs are near Shep- 
 herdsville, in BuUitt County, 
 
Ohio Eiteb.'] 
 
 OHIO BIVEB. 
 
 TOhio RnrEB, 
 
 THE "OHIO EIVEE. 
 
 THE OHIO EIVEE. 
 The Ohio is formed by the junction of 
 the Alleghany and Monongahela, the for- 
 mer being navigable for keel-boats as far 
 as Olean, in the State of New York, a 
 distance of about 250 miles ; the latter is 
 naTigable for steamboats to Brownsville, 
 60 miles, and by keel-boats upward of 
 175 miles. These two streams unite at 
 Pittsburg and form the Ohio, which, af- 
 ter a course of 1,000 miles, unites its wa- 
 ters with those of the Mississippi. No 
 other river of the same length has such a 
 uniform, smooth, and placid current. Its 
 average width is about 2,400 feet, and the 
 descent, in its whole course, is about 400 
 feet. At Pittsburg it is elevated about 
 1,150 feet above the ocean. It has no 
 fall, except a rocky rapid of 22^ feet de- 
 scent at Louisville, around which is a 
 canal two and a half miles long, with 
 locks sufficiently capacious to admit 
 large steamboats, though not of the 
 largest class. During half the year this 
 river has a depth allowing of navigation 
 by steamboats of the first class through 
 its whole course. It is, however, subject 
 to extreme elevations and depressions. 
 The average range between high and low 
 water is probably 30 feet. The highest 
 stage of water of the Ohio is in March, 
 and its lowest in July and August, when 
 navigation is greatly impeded by sand- 
 bars and other obstructions. The varia- 
 tions of level, in time of floods, are very 
 rapid, and the river, at Cincinnati, has 
 been known to rise at the rate of over a 
 foot an hour for many hours in succes- 
 sion. Various estimates have been made 
 of the rapidity of its current, but, owing 
 to its continually varying, it would be 
 difficult to assign any very exact esti- 
 mate. Between Pittsburg and its mouth 
 It is diversified by many large-sized isl- 
 ands, some of which are of exquisite 
 
 beauty. The passages between some of 
 these and the sand-bars at their head are 
 among the difficulties of the navigation 
 of the Ohio. Most of the obstructions 
 have been overcome by means of dams 
 that throw all the water into narrow 
 channels. In the infancy of the country, 
 every species of water-craft was employed 
 in navigating this river, some of which 
 were of the most whimsical and amusing 
 description. The barge, the keel-boat, 
 the Kentucky-flat or family-boat, the 
 pirogue, ferry-boats, gondolas, skiffs, 
 dug-outs, and many others, formerly 
 floated in great numbers down the cur- 
 rents of the Ohio and Mississippi Elvers 
 to their points of destination, at distances 
 sometimes of 3,000 miles. Owing to the 
 difficulties of navigating the river between 
 Pittsburg and Cincinnati, and the facili- 
 ties of speedy communication between 
 these cities by rail, the amount of through- 
 travel is comparatively small. The trav- 
 eller, as he descends this noble river in 
 the spring of the year — when its banks 
 are full, and the beautiful red-bud and 
 Oomus Florida deck the acclivities of 
 the bluffs, which sometimes rise 300 feet 
 in height, impend over the river, and 
 cast their grand shadows into the trans- 
 parent waters, and are seen at intervals 
 in its luxuriant bottoms, while the tower- 
 ing sycamore throws its venerable and 
 majestic arms, decked with rich foliage, 
 over the other trees — will readily ac- 
 knowledge the appropriateness of the 
 title which the early French explorers 
 gave to it. La Belle Riviire. 
 
 The tourist should first take a packet 
 for Wheeling. This will afford an oppor- 
 tunity to see all objects of interest in that 
 city before the connecting packet departs. 
 Then take a packet for Parkersburg, 
 where connection will be made with some 
 one of the fine steamers running to Cin- 
 235 
 
Landings.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [WELLSTIttB; 
 
 cinnati. These steamers stop sufficiently 
 long at Pomeroy, Gallipolis, Catlettsburg, 
 Ironton, Portsmouth, Maysville, Kipley, 
 and other towns, to give opportunity for 
 examining the salt, coal, nail, and iron 
 works, at the extensive manufactories 
 which are located along the Ohio River, 
 At Cincinnati take a packet for Louis- 
 ville ; at Louisville change to a. packet 
 for Evansville, and there change to a 
 packet for Cairo. The amount of bag- 
 gage is seldom limited on these boats, 
 and the care of it may be intrusted to the 
 porter. 
 
 LANDINGS. MILES. 
 
 Kttsburg, Pa 
 
 Economy, Pa 19 19 
 
 Freedom, Pa. 5 34 
 
 EeaTer,Fa. 4 23 
 
 ■VTellBviUe, 20 48 
 
 SteubenviJle, 20 68 
 
 WellBbnTg, W. Ta 6 74 
 
 Bridgeport, O. f " "" 
 
 BeUaire, 0.. 4 94 
 
 Elizabethtown, TV. Ta. I » ini 
 
 Big Grave Creek, W. Va. f ' ■'"'■ 
 
 Sisterrille, T. Ta 85 186 
 
 Marietta, 85 171 
 
 Parkersbnrg, W. Ta. I 1010a 
 
 BelprS, O. f " ^^ 
 
 BlemierbaBsett^B Island 2 185 
 
 Pomeroy, O , 64 249 
 
 Point Pleasant, W. Ta. I 1^ nro 
 
 Great Kanawha Eiver f ^* ■*'" 
 
 Gallipolia.0 4 267 
 
 Guyandotte, TV. Ta 86 808 
 
 Burlington, 8 811 
 
 Big Sandy Eiver I „ o^, 
 
 Catlettsbure, Ky. f '' '"■* 
 
 Ashland,:^ 6 820 
 
 Ironton, 5 825 
 
 HangingEock 2 827 
 
 Greenupsburg, Ky 6 888 
 
 Portsmouth, O. i on qj^q 
 
 SciotoEiver f ^'' ^^ 
 
 Borne, O 28 881 
 
 Manchester, O 18 894 
 
 Maysville, Ky. I 11 ^,5 
 
 Aberdeen,0. f"" 
 
 Eipley,0 9 414 
 
 Aagusta,Ky 10 424 
 
 Point Pleasant, 0. 1 it aa-i 
 
 Botaiont,Ky. f '■' *^ 
 
 New Eichmond, O : 6 446 
 
 Little Miami Eiver, 0.. 14 460 
 
 Cincinnati, O. I fi 466 
 
 Newport and Covington, Ky. J 
 
 North Bend, 0. I IT isa 
 
 General Harrison's Grave f ■" *^ 
 
 " Great Miami Eiver 4 487 
 
 Lawrenceburg, Ind 2 489 
 
 Aurora, Ind 4 493 
 
 Bising Sun, Ind 9 502 
 
 Big Bono, Lick Creek, Ky. 10 612 
 
 'Varsaw, Ky 11 628 
 
 Tevay, Ind. & Ghent, Ky 10 633 
 
 CarroBton, Ky 8 641 
 
 236 
 
 LAKDINGS. MILES. 
 
 Madison, Ind 12 668 
 
 Jeffersonvllle, Ind. 1 ak kco 
 
 Louisville^. f ^ S98 
 
 Portland, Ky. i . „, 
 
 New Albany, Ind. f " ""^ 
 
 Salt Eiver & West Point, Ky 21 624 
 
 Brandenburg, Ky 16 640 
 
 Leavenworth, Ind 18 658 
 
 Eome, Ind. I „- .„. 
 
 Stephensport^ Ky. f "' °"" 
 
 OloVerport, Ky. 10 705 
 
 Oannelton, Ind. I 10- tit 
 
 Hawesville, Ky. f ^^ '" 
 
 Eookport, Ind..... 28 740 
 
 Owensborough, Ky 9 749 
 
 Green Eiver, Ky 26 775 
 
 Evansville, Ind 8 788 
 
 Henderson, Ky 12 795 
 
 Mount Tcmon, Ind 18 818 
 
 Uniontown, Ky '. 14 882 
 
 WabashElver.. « 888 
 
 Shawneetown, Dl 9 847 
 
 Caseyville, Ky 13 860 
 
 CavelnEock, 111 9 869 
 
 Elizabethtown, 111 8 877 
 
 GolcondB,Ill IS 890 
 
 Smithland.Ky 18 908 
 
 Paducah, Ky....; 12 920 
 
 Metropolis raty. Ill 9 929 
 
 Caledonia 22 951 
 
 MoundCity,Ill 8 959 
 
 Cako, 111., and mouth of Ohio Elver.... 8 967 
 
 Economy, Pa. (19 miles), was 
 settled in 1825, by Germans under the 
 leadership of George Eapp. They call 
 themselves " Harmonists," and hold all 
 property in common. They own 3,500 
 acres of land, and their village, which is 
 situated on a plain, contains a church, a 
 museum, and manufactories of several 
 kinds. 
 
 'Beaver, Pa. (28 miles); the capi- 
 tal of Beaver County, is situated a little 
 below the mouth of the river of the same 
 name, and derives a fine water-povrer 
 from the falls of the Beaver. There are 
 numerous manufactories in and around 
 the town. The Beaver Division of the 
 Pennsylvania Catial terminates here. 
 
 fViellsTiIle, O. (48 miles), was 
 laid out by WilHam Wells, in 1824. It 
 is an important place for the shipment 
 of produce and wool, and contains foun- 
 deries, machine-shops, and the repairing- 
 shops of the Cleveland & FiMnrg Sau- 
 way. Nearly opposite Wellsville, the 
 desperate fight between Adam Foe,' his 
 brother, and a party of Indians, is said 
 to have taken place ; and two miles be- 
 low, near the mouth of Cheat YelloiB 
 Creek, is the locality of the murder of 
 the family of Logan, the Mingo chief. 
 
Wellsbcro.] 
 
 OHIO RIVER. 
 
 [MABniTA. 
 
 SteulteuTille, O. (68 miles). 
 (See page 25, of Westbrn Toub.) 
 
 WeUsl>iirg-, W. Ta. (T4 miles), 
 the capital of Brook County, is beautiful- 
 ly situated on the east bank of the river. 
 It is a busy manufacturing town, and ex- 
 ports large amounts of wool. Rich coal- 
 mines are worked in the neighborhood. 
 The town was laid out in i1S9, and was 
 originally called Charleatown, but the 
 name was afterward changed in compli- 
 ment to Alexander Wells, who built the 
 first flouring-mills j3n the Ohio. Among 
 the early settlers was Joseph Doddridge, 
 author of the "Indian Wars of North- 
 western Virginia." Bethany, eight miles 
 distant, is the seat of a college, founded 
 in 1841, by the Rev. Alexander Camp- 
 bell. 
 
 IVTheeling, W. Va. (90 miles), 
 formerly the capital of the State, and 
 now capital of Ohio County, is situated 
 on both sides of Wheeling Creek, at its 
 mouth, and is the principal city between 
 Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The first set- 
 tlement was made in 1769, and the city 
 now has «. population of about 25,000. 
 Wheeling is built, for the most part, 
 upon an alluvial tract extending along 
 the river about three miles, and shut in 
 by hills. The beautiful wire suspension- 
 bridge, by which the National Road here 
 crosses the river, has one of the longest 
 spans in the world, it being 1,010 feet. 
 The height of the supporting-towers is 
 60 feet above the abutments, and 153 
 feet above low-water mark. Four wire 
 cables, each 1,380 feet long, and eight 
 inches in diameter, support the bridge. 
 The cost was $210,000. A splendid rail- 
 way-bridge, obviating the transfer of 
 freight and passengers by ferry, was com- 
 pleted in 1870. (/See page 89.) 
 
 ISriilgeport, O. (90 miles), con- 
 tains several mills and warehouses, and 
 does a large business in forwarding goods 
 to the West. It is connected with Wheel- 
 ing by the suspension-bridge. 
 
 «}rave Creefa, "W. Va. (101 
 miles), is the capital of Marshall County. 
 Sig and IMle Grave Oreehs enter the 
 river here, leaving an interval of a mile 
 in width, on which the village is built. 
 It is divided into two distinct villages, of 
 nearly equal size, namely, Mwabethtovm 
 and MoimdsviUe, the former of which is 
 
 the seat of justice. Houndaville derives 
 its name from the Mammoth Mmmd in 
 the vicinity, one of the largest in the 
 United States. These mounds, which 
 are relics of the Indians, are so common 
 in the West that not much notice is given 
 to them. The great one near Uonnds- 
 ville, which is 70 feet, and the one at 
 Miamisburg, Ohio, which is 68 feet in 
 vertical height, probably mark the graves 
 of personages of high consequence among 
 the builders of these monuments. The 
 common notion that the mounds contain 
 vast heaps of slain, and are the memo- 
 rials of great battles, is wholly unsup- 
 ported .by facts. A very large mound 
 was entirely removed from near St. 
 Louis, Missouri, in 1870, for the purpose 
 of making an embankment for the ap- 
 proaches to the great bridge across the 
 Mississippi, and nothing was found. In 
 the same vicinity there stands one which 
 is 700 feet long, BOO feet broad at the 
 base, and 80 feet high, covering upward 
 of eight acres of ground, and having 20,- 
 000,000 cubic feet of contents. 
 
 Sisterville, IV. Va. (136 miles), 
 has an active trade. Coal and iron-ore 
 are found in the vicinity, and several 
 turnpike-roads terminate here. 
 
 Blarietta, O. (171 miles), a flour- 
 ishing town, and the capital of Washing- 
 ton County, is very picturesquely situ- 
 ated at the confluence of the Ohio and 
 Muskingum Rivers, and is regularly laid 
 out on level ground. It is the oldest 
 town in the State, having been settled in 
 April, 1788, by a company of New-Eng- 
 landers under the command of General 
 R. Putnam. Fort Sarmar was built on 
 the opposite bank of the Muskingum, in 
 1786. Marietta is the centre of an ex- 
 tensive trade in oil (petroleum), which is 
 obtained in the vicinity, and is the east- 
 em terminus of the Marietta & Cincin- 
 nati Railway, which connects with the 
 Baltimore & Ohio Railway at Belpr6. It 
 has good schools, and several public 
 buildings, and is the seat of Marietta 
 CoUege, founded in 1835. There are 
 also here a number of iron-founderies, 
 bucket, chair, and other manufactories. 
 Population in 1870, B,219. 
 
 I»arjkersl)nirg, 'VS'. Va., and 
 Belpre, O. (183 miles), together with 
 the grand railway-bridge uniting them, 
 237 
 
Bwsserhassett's Island.] SOUTHERN TOUB. 
 
 [iBONTOir. 
 
 have been described ilx chapter on Habt- 
 
 LAND. 
 
 ]IIennerIaasset^''s Island. 
 
 185 miles) is noted for having been the 
 residence of Herman Blennerhassett, an 
 Irishman of distinction, who improved 
 the island, and built on it a splendid 
 mansion for himself, in 1798. When 
 Aaron Burr was planning his celebrated 
 conspiracy, he induced Blennerhassett to 
 join him, and to embark all his means in 
 the scheme. Although not convicted of 
 treason, Blennerhassett was ruined, his 
 house went to decay, and his beautiful 
 gardens were destroyed. 
 
 Pomeroy, O. (249 miles), the 
 capital of Meigs County, is built on a 
 narrow strip of land, which is enclosed 
 between the river and a range of rugged 
 and precipitous hills. Including the ad- 
 joining villages of Coalport, Minersville, 
 Carltonville, and Middleport, which may 
 be regarded as portions of the same 
 town, it extends nearly three miles along 
 the river. Pomeroy owes its rapid 
 growth and prosperity chiefly to the 
 abundance and superior quality of the 
 stone-coal found in the vicinity. In 1851, 
 a company, with a capital of $25,000, 
 was formed here for manufacturing salt. 
 Two wells were sunk to the depth of 
 1,000 feet, each of which discharges BO 
 gallons of water a minute, containing 9.5 
 per cent, of salt. The quality of the salt 
 is said to be very good. Since this ex- 
 periment numerous companies have been 
 formed, and have been so successful that 
 Pomeroy has become one of the most ex- 
 tensive salt-manufacturing places in the 
 Western States. Population in 1870, 6,825. 
 Point Pleasant, VF. Ta. ^263 
 miles), the capital of Mason County, is on 
 the site of the battle of " Point Pleas- 
 ant," fought October 10, 1774. Eleven 
 hundred whites were attacked by a large 
 body of Indians under the command of 
 " Cornstalk," a noted warrior. The en- 
 gagement was the most severe ever 
 fought with the Indians on the soil of 
 Virginia. It lasted all day, ending in the 
 defeat of the savages and their retreat 
 across the Ohio. 
 
 The Cri-eat KanaTrba KiT-er 
 
 empties at Point Pleasant. It is about 
 
 80 or 100 miles long, and is navigable 
 
 more months in the year than the Ohio, 
 
 238 
 
 but only to narrow boats, as the river 
 itself is very narrow. On either side are 
 broad farms,- back of which are moun- 
 tains of coal, salt, and iron. The cur- 
 rent is very rapid, and the river will 
 sometimes rise or fall 12 or 15 feet in a 
 single night. Charleston, the on-pitBl of 
 West Virginia, is on this river, 60 miles 
 from the mouth. ■ New Elver, Coal Kiver, 
 and Elk Biver, all navigable streams, are 
 tributary to the Kanawha. 
 
 Crallipolls, O. (275 miles), is a 
 flourishing town pleasantly situated on a 
 high bank, and having some handsome 
 public buildings, three steam - flouring 
 mills, a woollen-factory, and two tanneries. 
 It was a depot of supplies during the late 
 civil war. Population in 1870, 3,691; 
 
 Cruyanaottc, W. Ta. (303 
 miles), at the mouth of Mff ChiyandoUe 
 River, is an important place of steamboat 
 debarkation. A railroad is projected 
 between this place and Covington, Ky., 
 to connect with the Kentucky Central 
 Railway ; and the- Chesapeake & Ohio 
 Railway, described in a previous chapter, 
 passes through the place. 
 
 Bui-Iing'ton, O. (311 miles), is 
 the capital of Lawrence County. In the 
 neighborhood are large deposits of iron- 
 ore and. numerous furnaces. 
 
 The Big: Sandy River (314 
 miles) is the boundary between Kentucky 
 and West Virginia. It flows over beds 
 of stone-coal, and is a fine stream, open 
 for steamboat navigation for more than 
 100 miles. 
 
 Catlettsljurg', Ky., at the 
 mouth of the Big Sandy River, is com- 
 paratively a young town, but is growing 
 rapidly. Among its notable features is a 
 flourishing female seminary founded and 
 sustained by Captain Washington Hons- 
 bell, for the purpose of educating poor 
 girls who have not the means to obtain a 
 liberal education. 
 
 Ashland, Ky. (320 miles), a small 
 village, is the terminus of the Lexington 
 tfc Big Saitiy Railway, now building. 
 
 ■ronton, O. (325 miles), was laid 
 out in 1849. It is situated above the 
 reach of the highest floods, at the foot 
 of high hills, rich in coal and iron. It 
 contains large briek buildings, churches, 
 and schools, and a number of founderies, 
 machine-shops, and manufactories. 
 
Eanoiso Boce.] 
 
 OHIO RIVER. 
 
 [Little Miami Riteb. 
 
 Hamgflngr Rock, O. (32'7 miles), 
 the depot for the product of seyeral blast- 
 furnaces, has a rolling-mill, and other 
 manufacturing establishments. It takes 
 its name from a cliff of rooks about 400 
 feet high in the rear of the town. 
 
 Greenup s1>ii.rgf, Ky. (333 
 miles), sometimes called Greenup Court- 
 Souse, is situated at the mouth of LitUe 
 Sandy River, and is the capital of Green- 
 up County. 
 
 Portsmontb, O. (353 miles), the 
 capital of Scioto County, is beautifully 
 situated at the mouth of the Scioto, and 
 at the terminus of the Ohio & Erie Canal. 
 Steamboats ply regularly between this 
 city, Cincinnati, and other river ports, 
 and the Portsmonth Branch of the Marietta 
 & Cincinnati Bailway terminates here. 
 The town contains several large public 
 buildings, iron and nail factories, and 
 forges. Iron-ore, stone-coal, and fine 
 building-stone, are found in great abun- 
 dance in the vicinity. Population in 1860, 
 6,268 ; in 1870, 10,692. 
 
 Rome, O. (381 miles), has an active 
 trade in lumber, and there are mines of 
 iron-ore in the vicinity. 
 
 mandiester, O. (394 miles), was 
 formerly the capital of Adams County. 
 It is a milling and manufacturing place. 
 The first settlement in the Virginia mili- 
 tary district was made here in 1795. 
 
 inaysville, Ky. (405 miles), is 
 beautifully situated on an eminence, and 
 a range of bold and verdant highlands, 
 rising immediately behind it, renders its 
 appearance, as viewed from the river, 
 very attractive. It is compactly built, 
 and contains many handsome houses. It 
 is the entrepot of the goods and produce 
 imported and exported by the northeast- 
 ern section of Kentucky, and is the most 
 extensive hemp-market in the United 
 States. Maysville has numerous manu- 
 factories, among which are two steam 
 cotton-factories, a large bagging-factory, 
 two iron-foiinderies, 5 rope-walks, twelve 
 manufactories of ploughs, and of coaches 
 and wagons. It was settled in 1784, and 
 incorporated in 1833. In 1870 its popu- 
 lation was 4,705. On the opposite bank 
 of the river is the thriving village of 
 Aberdeen, Ohio. 
 
 Ripley, O. (414 miles), was for- 
 merly called Staunton, but its name was 
 
 changed in compliment to the late Gen- 
 eral Kipley, chief of ordnance, U. S. Ar- 
 my. It is the principal town in the coun- 
 ty, has a large trade, and is beautifully 
 situated on a narrow strip of land between 
 the river and steep hiUs. 
 
 Augusta, Ky. (424 miles), is the 
 most important town in the county of 
 Bracken, on account of trade and manu- 
 factures. It has several tobaceo-waie- 
 houses, large steam flouring-mills, and a 
 tannery. This place is the seat of Au- 
 gusta CoUege, which was founded by the 
 Methodists in 1826, being the first insti- 
 tution of the kind ever estabhshed by 
 that denomination. 
 
 There have been numerous human 
 bones excavated from the earth in Au- 
 gusta, proving it to have been a burial- 
 place in times long smce gone by. A 
 resident of this town alleges to have 
 found 110 skeletons in diggmg u, cellar 
 60 by 70 feet. 
 
 Point Pleasant, O., and Bel- 
 mont, Ky. (441 miles), are small vil- 
 lages on opposite sides of the river. The 
 former was the birthplace of President 
 Grant. 
 
 Ne-n^ Richmond, O. (446 miles), 
 the most populous village iu Clermont 
 County, contains nine or ten churches, a 
 Union school, several mills, etc. 
 
 The liittle IMtiami River (460 
 miles) is not a navigable stream, but 
 flows through a rich farming country, 
 and furnishes a valuable water-power 
 along its whole length. 
 
 Cincinnati, O., is fully described 
 in Hand-Book of Travel — V/estern 
 TonK ; and We-w^port and Coving- 
 ton, Ky. (466 miles), have been de- 
 scribed in chapter on Kentucky. 
 
 The view from the steamer when oppo- 
 site Cincinnati is remarkable, and one 
 long to be remembered. On the one hand 
 is the densely-populated city, its rows 
 of massive buildings rising tier above 
 tier toward the hill-tops, which, crowned 
 with villas and vineyards, form a semicir- 
 cular background. On the opposite bank 
 rise the beautiful Kentucky hills, their 
 summits still crowned by the earthworks 
 raised during the days of Cincinnati's 
 threatened danger in the late civil war ; 
 while at their feet nestle the twin cities 
 of Covington and Newport, Kentucky, di- 
 239 
 
North Bend.] 
 
 SOUTIIEJEIN TOUR. 
 
 [jBFFBBSONTIUa, 
 
 Tided only by the laching'Biver. Coving- 
 ton is united with Cincinnati by a eus- 
 penBion-bridge, and another spans the 
 Licking, between, Covington ?ind New- 
 port. A. railroad-bridge is also building 
 over the Ohio, between Newport and Cin- 
 cinnati. 
 
 Horth Bend, O. (483 miles), a 
 charming spot, was the residence of Gen- 
 eral WiUiam Henry Harrison, President 
 of the United States. His tomb, a mod- 
 est brick structure, upon a beautiful 
 knoll, is visible for several miles both up 
 and down the river. Standing beside it, 
 the visitor can take in a fine view of 
 parts of Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky. 
 
 The ereat Miami Hirer (487 
 miles), an important though not a navi- 
 gable stream, is the boundary of Ohio and 
 Indiana. 
 
 Kia^rrence'bii.rg, Ind. (489 
 miles), is described in Western Toi7b. 
 {See page 69.) 
 
 Aurora, Ind. {493 miles), is de- 
 scribed in Western Tour. {See page 59.) 
 
 Rising: Snn, Ind. ([602 miles), 
 the capital of Ohio County, is a thriving 
 manufacturing town, containing several 
 handsome public buildings. 
 
 Bigr Bone liick Creek, Ky. 
 (612 miles), is in Boone County. About 
 two miles from the mouth of this stream 
 are the IMg BoneLick Springs, the waters 
 of which are impregnated with sulphur 
 and salt. The place derives its name 
 from the large number of bones of the 
 mastodon, or mammoth, and the arctic 
 elephant, formerly . found scattered all 
 over the surface of the ground in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 Warsa-w, TBiy. (623 miles), the 
 capital of Gallatin County, is an enter- 
 prising village, and has several large to- 
 bacco-factories. 
 
 Vevay, Ind. (633 miles), a pretty 
 village, is the capital of Switzerland Coun- 
 ty. In 1804 it was settled by a colony of 
 Swiss, who commenced the cultivation of 
 the grape on a large scale ; but the vine 
 does not receive much attention at pres- 
 ent. On the opposite bank of the river 
 is the village of Q-hent, Ky. 
 
 Carrollton, Ky. (641 miles), 
 
 the capital of Carroll County, stands at 
 
 the mouth of the Kentucky Rivera and 
 
 was formerly called Fort William,. It 
 
 240 
 
 was first settled in 1J84, ap,)} th^.present 
 town was laid out in 1Y92. It has been 
 the scene of several contests, with the In- 
 dians. 
 
 The Kentucky Bi-rer is a navi- 
 gable stream, about 200 miles long, and 
 is noted for its beautiful scenery. 
 
 IHadison, Ind. (663 miles), the 
 capital of Jefferson County, is one of the 
 principal cities in the State in population 
 and importance. It is the southeastern 
 terminup of the JeffersonvUle, Madison & 
 Indianapolis Eailway, which was com- 
 pleted in 1848. The city is beautifully 
 situated in a valley nearly three miles in 
 length, which is enclosed on the north by 
 steep and rugged hills, about 400 feet 
 high. The site is elevated 30 or 40 feet 
 above the highest floods. Madison is 
 well built, and contains handsome pubUo 
 buildings. The. streets are paved, and 
 lighted with gas,, and have quite a busi- 
 ness aspect. Among the manufactories 
 are several brass and iron founderies 
 flouriug-mills, and planing-mills. The 
 building of steamboats is an important 
 branch of industry at Madison, Naviga^ 
 tion is open all winter,, and steamboats 
 make daily passages between the port and 
 Cincinnati and Louisville. 
 
 Jeffersonrille, Ind.. (€98 
 miles), is a flourishing town, situated on 
 an elevation which presents a delightful 
 view of the city of Louisville, ofi..the 
 broad and winding river with its verdant 
 islands, and a range of hills a few miles 
 distant. The Ohio is about a mile wide 
 opposite this town, and is here crossed 
 by one of the finest bridges in the United 
 States, giving imbroken connection be- 
 tween the railway systems of the Southern 
 States. Jeffersonville is the Southern 
 terminus of the Jeffenonvill&, Madison & 
 Indianapolis HaMway. It contains many 
 handsome ohurohes, a large manufactory 
 of locomotives and cars, machine-shops, 
 mills, and the Southern State Prison of 
 Indiana. 
 
 I^onisTille, Ky. (698 miles), is 
 fully described in chapter on KEirancKT. 
 {See page 226.) 
 
 The fiills of the Ohio, just below Louis- 
 ville, obstruct navigation entirely at low 
 stages of water. The descent is 23 feet 
 in two miles. To obviate this, a canal was 
 made around them, to Shippingsport, a 
 
PORTLAm.] 
 
 OHIO RIVER. 
 
 [Hawesvilie. 
 
 distance of 2^ miles. It was a work of 
 stupendous labor, being cut, a greater 
 part of its length, through solid rock. It 
 is, in some places, 40 feet deep, and of 
 sufficient width to allow the passage of 
 steamboats ; it affords fine water-power 
 for the mill-seats below the locks. 
 
 Portland, Ky. (603 miles), sit- 
 uated at the lower termination of the 
 canal made around the rapids, has a 
 large trade, 
 
 We^w A11>a.ity, Ind. (60S miles), 
 which lies on the other side of the river, 
 is an important place — ^in fact, the chief 
 commercial town of the State. Steam- 
 boats arrive and depart daily from and 
 to all points on the Ohio and Mississippi. 
 The streets of New Albany are wide, 
 straight, well paved, and well lighted 
 with gas. The town contains 18 churches, 
 a collegiate institute, a Presbyterian theo- 
 logical seminary, banks, and large pub- 
 lic school-houses. Steamboat-building is 
 carried on more extensively here than at 
 any other place on the Ohio, excepting 
 CincinnatL The manufactures of the 
 place are numerous and various. New 
 Albany is the terminus of the LouUville, 
 New Albany <h Chicago Railway, It was 
 laid out in 1813. The population in 1840 
 was 4,226; in 1860, 12,647; in 1870, 
 16,206. 
 
 TTcst Point, Ky. (624 miles), 
 at the mouth of Salt River, has an ex- 
 tensive boat-building yard. 
 
 ISra.iideii1>nrg:, Ky.(640 miles), 
 the capital of Meade County, is situated 
 on a high bluff affording fine views of 
 the river and adjacent country. It has a 
 prosperous trade. 
 
 lieaven-wortlt, Xiid.(668 miles), 
 the capital of Crawford County, is situ- 
 ated at the Horaeahoe Bend. It is the 
 principal shipping-point for an extensive 
 region. The coal-fields of Indiana com- 
 mence here. 
 
 tVyandotte CaT-e is in Crawford 
 County, five miles from Leavenworth, 
 near the Blite River, and 400 feet above 
 the water. It has two general divisions, 
 called Old, or " Epsom Salts Cave," and 
 ''■New Cave." It has been explored 22 
 miles, and many portions still remain 
 tmvisited. As far as now known, its 
 greatest width is 300 feet, and its greatest 
 height 245 feet. Some of its most noted 
 U 
 
 features are "Bandits' ffall," " Huto'a 
 Ravine," " Monument Mountain," " Luci- 
 fer's Gorge," and " Calypso's Island." 
 Among its wonders is a white column 30 
 feet high and 16 in diameter, regularly 
 and beautifully fiuted, and surrounded 
 by other formations of the same charac- 
 ter. Epsom salts, nitre, gypsum, and 
 aluminous earth, are found in the soil 
 of the fioor. Inside the cave is the 
 picture of an Indian rudely painted on 
 the rock. 
 
 Borne, Ind. (695 miles), the capital 
 of Ferry County, and Stepbensport, 
 Ky., at the mouth of Sinking Creek, are 
 on opposite sides of the river. They are 
 small villages. 
 
 Sinking Creek rises in the upper 
 part of Breckenridge County, Ky. It is 
 a large stream, supplying abundance of 
 water-power for mills during the whole 
 year ; six or seven miles from its source, 
 it sinks beneath the surface of the 
 earth, showmg no trace of its presence 
 for five or six miles, when it reappears 
 above-ground and flows into the Ohio. 
 On this Creek is to be seen a natural 
 rock mill-dam, eight feet high and 40 
 feet wide, which answers all the purposes 
 of a dam to a mill which hag been erected 
 at the place. Near the creek is Beni- 
 teniiary Cave, which has never been fully 
 explored. 
 
 Cloverport, Ky. (705 miles), 
 does a large business in shipping prod- 
 uce. Coal is abimdant in the vicinity. 
 Four miles from the village are the 
 White Sulphur Springs, a fashionable 
 watering-place, described in chapter on 
 Kentucky. 
 
 Cannelton, Ind. (717 miles), 
 has several churches and handsome resi- 
 dences, and a cotton-factory, which em- 
 ploys several hundred hands. Popula- 
 tion about 2,500. The factory presents 
 a splendid appearance from the river ; it 
 is 300 feet long and four stories high, 
 built of variegated sandstone. Extensive 
 beds of coal are found in the adjoining 
 hills, giving the place great advantages 
 as a manufacturing town. Fire-clay and 
 a fine sandstone for building-purposes are 
 found here in abundance. 
 
 HaTTCs-riUe, Ky, (717 miles), 
 the capital of Hancock County, has a 
 large coal-trade. 
 
 241 
 
BOOEFOBT.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [Metbofolis Can, 
 
 XBockport, Ind. (740 miles), the 
 capital of Spencer County, ia picturesque- 
 ly situated on a high bluff. Its name is 
 derived from a hanging rock, known as 
 JCady Washington's Mock, which rises 
 ahout 30 feet above the river at its ordi- 
 nary level. 
 
 0-weii8l>oroiig:Ii, Ky. (749 
 miles), the capital of Daviess County, is a 
 thriving shipping-port. The navigation 
 of the river is seldom obstructed, either 
 by ice or low water, below this place. It is 
 in a fertile region abounding in minerals. 
 
 Crreen Ri'ver, Ky. (725 mUes), 
 is a navigable stream, as is also its tribu- 
 tary, the Big Sarren. 
 
 E-ransT-ille, Ind. (783 miles), a 
 port of entry and a flourishing city, is 
 the capital of Vanderburg Cbunty. It is 
 the southern terminus of the MiansviUe & 
 Orawfordsmlle Bailway, and of the Wa- 
 bash & Erie Canal, which is, about 400 
 miles long — the most extensive in the 
 Union. Among the public buildings are 
 the branch of the State Bank, a fine edi- 
 fice, and a marine hospital. Evansville 
 has 30 churches, a large court-house, sev- 
 eral banks, a theatre, and four public 
 halls. It is the principal shipping-point 
 for the grain and pork of Southwestern 
 Indiana, and has large and important 
 manufactories. Population in 1860, 11,- 
 484 ; in 1870, 21,830. 
 
 Henderson, Ky. (796 miles), the 
 capital of Henderson County, is a flourish- 
 ing place, situated in the midst of a fine 
 agricultural region, abounding in coal and 
 iron. 
 
 mount Temon, Ind. (818 
 miles), the capital of Posey County, stands 
 on a fine bluff, commanding an extensive 
 and beautiful view of the river. 
 
 UniontOTT'n, Ky. (832 miles), is 
 a small village in Union County. A few 
 miles from it, on Highland Creek, is a fine 
 tar-spring. There are a number of curi- 
 osities in the county, worthy of observa- 
 tion. One is a large flat rock, with per- 
 "ect resemblance of the naked feet of 
 men and animals deeply imprinted in it. 
 There is also a cavern, which is thought 
 to be of great extent, but has not yet 
 been fully explored. 
 
 The 'Wa1>asli Kiver (888 miles), 
 for nearly 200 miles the boundary be- 
 tween Indiana and Illinois, is navigable I 
 242 
 
 for flat-boats 400 miles. At high water 
 steamboats ascend as far as Lafayette. 
 
 SIia.Tvneeto'wn, 111. (847 miles), 
 derives its name from the Shawnee tribe 
 of In^ans, who once occupied this Site. 
 It is one of the most important commer- 
 cial places in the southern part of the 
 State. A new line of railroad, connecting 
 the northern and southern systems, is now 
 building, and will pass through Shawnee- 
 town. 
 
 CaseyTille, Ky. (860 miles), is a 
 small village. About three miles distant 
 may be seen a natural curiosity, termed 
 Anvil Socle, which is some 50 feet high, 
 20 feet wide, and two feet thick, and 
 bears a striking resemblance to a black- 
 smith's anvil. It stands u|)bn level bot- 
 tom-land, and is 'entirely isolated. 
 
 Two miles below the village, on the op- 
 posite bank of the river, is Sattery Mock, 
 a high and picturesgue blufi^. 
 
 Cave in Vtock, III. (869 miles), 
 is one of the most noted places on the 
 river. About the year 1801, a band of 
 river-pirates, under the' command of an 
 outlaw named Mason, made this their 
 headquarters, whence they sallied forth 
 to rob and murder passing boatmen. The 
 Governor of Mississippi put a price of 
 $500 on Mason's head. One of the band, 
 named Harpe, turned traitor, shot Mason, 
 cut off his head, and carried it to the 
 capital, where he was paid the reward. 
 
 E:iiza1>etItto>m, 111. (877 
 miles), the capital of Hardin County, is in 
 the neighborhood of rich lead-mines. 
 
 Oolconda, 111. (890 miles), the 
 capital of Pope County, is situated at the 
 mouth of I/usk Creek. 
 
 Smithland, Ky. (908 miles,) 
 used to have some importancfe as a ship- 
 ping-port, but this is declining, on ac- 
 count of the channel changing to the 
 other side of the river. It is at the 
 mouth of the Cumberland River. 
 
 Padacah, Ky. (920 miles), is de- 
 scribed in a previous chapter. 
 
 metropolis City, III. (929 
 miles), is the capital of Massac County. 
 At the time of " Aaron Burr's conspir- 
 acy," the troops sent by the Government 
 to frustrate his plans built a. fort two 
 miles above, where the village now stands, 
 and named it Port Massac. There is 
 nothing now left to mark the spot 
 
Calsuonia.] 
 
 OHIO EIVEE. 
 
 iCAIBO. 
 
 Caledonia, III. (961 miles), the 
 capital of Pulaski County, is a small vil- 
 lage. 
 
 JHomid. City, 111. (959 miles), Is 
 the site of the United States Biver Navy- 
 Tard, It is six miles above Cairo, and 
 eight miles above the mouth of the 
 river. 
 
 Cairo, 111. (967 miles), the capital 
 of Alexander County, is situated upon 
 the point of land formed by the conflu- 
 ence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, 
 and is the southernmost point of the 
 State. Though alvrays recognized as an 
 important position, and one destined to 
 become the site of a large city, the dis- 
 advantages which stood as barriers in 
 the way of private enterprise, and the ex- 
 ceptionally unhealthy character of the lo- 
 cality, frustrated all attempts at building 
 up a town upon a spot subject to iaunda- 
 tion at any flood of either of the two 
 great rivers. The prosperity of the place 
 dates from the completion of the Illinois 
 
 Central Railway. The company built a 
 levee, which acts as a barrier against the 
 water, and made other important improve- 
 ments. On the 7th of August, 1865, the 
 first train of cars reached the city. In 
 1880, the population was 242 ; it is now 
 between 12,000 and 15,000. Every 
 steamer plying between places on the 
 Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, or between 
 ports upon the Upper and Lower Missis- 
 sippi, stops at Cairo to receive and dis- 
 charge freight and passengers. The 
 buUdings erected by the General Govern- 
 ment, and the county buildings, are large 
 and handsome, especially the Custom- 
 House, which is of cut stone, and cost 
 about $200,000. During the civil war, 
 Cairo was an important depot of supplies. 
 A steam-packet, plying between Colum- 
 bus, Ky., and Cairo, forms the connecting 
 link in the chain of railway communica- 
 tion by the Mobile S Ohio and Mlinois Cen- 
 tral Railways between New Orleans and 
 Chicago. 
 
 243 
 
UlSSISSIPFI BiTEB.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [HiSSISSIPM BiTEB. 
 
 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEE. 
 
 There is no river scenery of the world 
 more picturesque and beautiful than that 
 of the upper section of the Mississippi, 
 from St. Paul to the mouth of the Mis- 
 souri. Travellers have truly said, how- 
 ever, that the scenery of the Lower Mis- 
 sissippi lacks both grandeur and beauty ; 
 but there is no scenery on earth more 
 striking. The dreary solitude, and often 
 the absence of all living objects, save the 
 huge alligators, which float past appar- 
 ently asleep on the drift-wood, and an 
 occasional vulture attracted by its impure 
 prey on the surface of the waters ; the 
 trees with a long and melancholy drapery 
 of pendant moss, fluttering in the wind ; 
 and the gigantic river rollmg onward the 
 vast volume of its dark and turbid waters 
 through the wilderness, form the leading 
 features of one of the most dismal yet 
 impressive landscapes on which the eye 
 of man ever rested. Eocks and moun- 
 tains would not add to the sublimity of 
 the Mississippi. Pelion might be piled 
 on Ossa, Alps on Andes, and still to the 
 heart and perceptions of the spectator the 
 great Father of Waters would be cdone. 
 No river in the world drains so large a 
 portion of the earth's surface. It is the 
 traveller of 6,000 miles, more than two- 
 thirds of the diameter of the globe. 
 
 " The prevailing character of the Mis- 
 sissippi," says a recent traveller, " is that 
 of solemn gloom. I have trodden the 
 passes of Alp and Apennine, yet never 
 felt how awful a thing is Nature, till I 
 was borne on its waters, through re^ons 
 desolate and uninhabitable. Say after 
 day and night after night, we continued 
 driving right downward to the south ; 
 our vessel, like some huge demon of the 
 wilderness, bearing fire in her bosom, 
 and canopying the eternal forest with the 
 smoke of her nostrils. The efifeot on my 
 spirits was such as I have never experi- 
 enced before or since. Conversation be- 1 
 244 
 
 came odious, and I passed my time in a 
 sort of dreamy contemplation. At night 
 I ascended to the highest deck, and lay 
 for hours gazing listlessly on the sky, the 
 forests and the waters, amid silence only 
 broken by the clanging of the engine. 
 The navigation of the Mississippi is not 
 unaccompanied by danger, arising from 
 what are called platUers and sawyers. 
 These are trees flrmly flxed in the bot- 
 tom of the river, by which vessels are in 
 danger of being impaled. The distinction 
 is, that the former stand upright in the 
 water, the latter lie with their points 
 directed down the stream. The bends 
 or flexures of the Mississippi are regular 
 in a degree unknown in any other river. 
 The action of running water, in a vast 
 alluvial plain like that of the basin of the 
 Mississippi, without obstruction from 
 rock or mountain, may be calculated 
 with the utmost precision. Whenever 
 the course of a liver diverges in any de- 
 gree from a right line, it is evident that 
 the current can no longer act with equal 
 force on both its banks. On one side 
 the impulse is diminished, on the other 
 increased. The tendency in these sinu- 
 osities, therefore, is manifestly to increase, 
 and the stream which hollows out a por- 
 tion of one bank, being rejected to the 
 other, the process of curvature is still 
 continued, till its channel presents an al- 
 most unvarying succession of salient and 
 retiring angles. In the Mississippi, the 
 flexures are so extremely great that it 
 often happens that the isthmus which 
 divides different portions of the river 
 gives way. A few months before my 
 visit to the South, a remarkable case of 
 this kind had happened, by which forty 
 miles of navigation had been saved. The 
 opening thus formed was called the neie 
 cut, Even the annual changes which 
 take place in the bed of the Mississippi 
 are very remarkable. Islands spring up 
 
Mississippi Eitbb.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI EIVER. 
 
 [Mississippi Biter. 
 
 and disappear ; shoals suddenly present 
 themselves, where pilots have been ac- 
 customed to deep water ; in many places, 
 whole acres are swept away from one 
 bank, and added to the other ; and the 
 pilot assured me that in every voyage he 
 could perceive fresh changes. Many cir- 
 cumstances contribute to render these 
 changes more rapid in the Mississippi 
 than in any other river. Among these, 
 perhaps, the greatest is the vast volume 
 of its waters, acting on alluvial matter 
 peculiarly penetrable. The river, when 
 in flood, spreads over the neighboring 
 country, in which it has formed channels, 
 called bayous. The banks thus become 
 so saturated with water, that they can 
 oppose little resistance to the action of 
 the current, which frequently sweeps off 
 large portions of the forest. The im- 
 mense quantity of drift-wood is another 
 cause of change. Moating logs encounter 
 some obstacle in the river, and become 
 stationary. The mass gradually accumu- 
 lates ; the water, saturated with mud, de- 
 posits a sediment, and thus an island is 
 formed, which soon becomes covered with 
 vegetation. Some years ago, the Missis- 
 sippi was surveyed by order of the Gov- 
 ernment ; and its islands, from the con- 
 fluence of the Missouri to the sea, were 
 numbered. I remember asking the pilot 
 the name of a very beautiful island, and 
 the answer was, 573, the number assigned 
 to it in tho hydrographical survey, and 
 the only name by which it was known." 
 
 The Mississippi was discovered in 
 1672, but its true source was not fully 
 determined until its exploration by School- 
 craft, who, in 1832, ascertained that it 
 took its rise in a small lake situated in 
 47° north latitude and 94° 64' west longi- 
 tude from Greenwich. This lake, called 
 by the French Lao la Biclie — by recent 
 geographers Itasca (from Veritas Caput, 
 the true head), is a beautiful sheet of wa- 
 ter, of an irregular shape, about eight 
 miles in length, situated among hiUs cov- 
 ered with pine-forests, and fed chiefly by 
 springs. It is elevated about 1,600 feet 
 above the ocean, and is at a distance of 
 more than 3,000 miles from the Gulf of 
 Mexico. The river drains an extent of 
 territory which, for fertility and vastnesa, 
 is unequalled upon the globe. This ter- 
 ritory, termed the " Mississippi Valley," 
 
 extends from the sources of the Missis 
 sippi in tho north to the Gulf of Mexico 
 in the south, and from the Alleghany 
 Mountains on the east to the Bocky 
 Mountains on the west. A more correct 
 estimate of its area may be formed thus : 
 Take a position on the Gulf of Mex- 
 ico, where it empties its accumulated 
 waters, and run a line northwestward to 
 the Kocky Mounta,ins, whence issue the 
 som-ces of the Arkansas, Platte, and other 
 smaller streams ; from this point along 
 the Kocky Mountains to the sources of 
 the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers; 
 around the northern sources of the latter 
 river to the headwaters of Red River, a, 
 branch of the Assiniboin ; around the 
 sources of the Mississippi proper, to the 
 headwaters of the Wisconsin and Illi- 
 nois Rivers ; between the confluents of 
 the lakes, and those of the Ohio, to the 
 extreme source of the Alleghany River ; 
 along the dividing hne between the 
 sources of streams flowing into the Ohio 
 River, and those flowing toward the At- 
 lantic ; between the confluents of the 
 Tennessee, and those streams emptying 
 into Mobile Bay ; between the sources 
 discharged into the Mississippi, and those 
 into the Tombigbee and Pearl Rivers ; to 
 the mouth of the Mississippi, and from 
 its mouth to the outlet of the Atchafala- 
 ya — the whole presenting an outline of 
 more than 6,000 miles, or an area of 
 about 1,210,000 square miles. The Mis- 
 sissippi River is navigable for steamboats, 
 with but partial interruption, as far north 
 as the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of 
 2,037 miles ; its course, however, is ex- 
 tremely crooked, and not unfrequently a 
 bend occurs from twenty to thirty miles 
 round, while the distance across is not 
 more than a mile or two. In some in- 
 stances, however, these distances have 
 been shortened by what are termed " cut- 
 offs," which are made by opening a narrow 
 channel across the neck of a bend, when, 
 on admitting the water, the current, run- 
 ning with such velocity, soon forces a 
 channel both wide and deep enough for 
 the largest steamboats to go through. 
 
 A short distance from its source, the 
 Mississippi becomes a tolerably-sized 
 stream ; below the Falls of St. Anthony 
 it is half a mile wide, and below the Des 
 Moines Rapids it assumes a medial width 
 246 
 
Distances.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 [IStAUD KO 1. 
 
 and character to the mouth of the Mis- 
 souri. About 15 miles below the mouth 
 ■of the St. Croix River, the Mississippi 
 expands into a beautiful sheet of water, 
 called Lake Pepin, which is 24 miles 
 long, and from two to four miles broad. 
 The islands,, which are numerous, and 
 many of them large, have, during the 
 Bummer season, an aspect of great beauty, 
 possessing a grandeur of vegetation 
 which contributes much to the magnifi- 
 cence of the river. The numerous sand- 
 bars are the resort, during the season, 
 of innumerable swans, geese, and water- 
 fowl. The Upper Mississippi is a beauti- 
 ful river, more so than the Ohio ; its cur- 
 rent is more gentle, its water clearer, and 
 it is a, third wider. In general it is a 
 mile wide, yet, for some distance before 
 commingling its waters with the Missouri, 
 it has a much greater width. At the 
 junction of the two streams, it is a mile 
 and a half wide. The united stream, 
 flowing thence to the mouth of the 
 Ohio, has an average width of little more 
 than three-quarters of a mile. On its 
 uniting with the Missouri it loses its dis- 
 tinctive character. It is no longer the 
 gentle, placid stream with smooth shores 
 and clean sand-bars, but has a furious 
 and boiling current, a turbid and danger- 
 ous mass of waters, with jagged and di- 
 lapidated shores. Its character of calm 
 magnificence, that so delighted the eye 
 above, is seen no more. 
 
 All this portion of the river is fully 
 described in Appletons' Handbook op 
 Travel — ^Western Toub, as Xaie and 
 Siver Tour, No. I: Our present descrip- 
 tion has to do with that portion which 
 lies below the mouth of the Ohio, be- 
 tween Cairo and New Orleans. 
 
 Distances from tlie MoviTi of the Ohio 
 jiiver to Neus Orleans. 
 
 UILBB. 
 
 To Island No. 1 6 
 
 Colambu8, Ky 12 18 
 
 Wolfs Island, or No. 6 1 19 
 
 Hickman, Ky 18 87 
 
 Island No.lO 82 69 
 
 New Madrid, Mo 10 79 
 
 Point Pleasant, Mo 7 86 
 
 Little Prairie, Mo 27 118 
 
 Needham's Island, and Cut-off 25 188 
 
 Ashport, Tenn 8 146 
 
 OsceoIa,Ark 12 158 
 
 PlumPoint 8 161 
 
 1st Chickasaw Bluff 6 166 
 
 Fulton, Tenn 2 168 
 
 246 
 
 UILBil. 
 
 To Tort Eandolph, ) in 17a 
 
 2d Chickasaw BluiT, f •'" ^"' 
 
 8d Ohiotasaw Bluff 17 195 
 
 Greenock,Ark :. 80 225 
 
 WolfEiver, I m -uk 
 
 Memphis, Tenn. f '"' ^^ 
 
 Norfolk, Miss .• 10 255 
 
 Commerce, Miss 17 2T2 
 
 Peyton,Miss 81 803 
 
 St. Francis Biver, and I ,» 01 « 
 
 Sterling, Ark. f ^^ ^^^ 
 
 Helena, Ark 10 826 
 
 Tazoo Pass, or Bayou, I ,„ qor 
 
 and Delta, Miss. \ ^"^^ 
 
 Horseshoe Bend 8 SH 
 
 Montgomery Pt., Ark. I tia di\9 
 
 Victoria, Miss. f *" ™' 
 
 White Eiver, Ark 4 406 
 
 Arkansas Eiver, 1 -«« Ann 
 
 Napoleon, Ark. (■ '■" *'''' 
 
 Bolivar Landing...... IS 435 
 
 Columbia,Ark 53 488 
 
 Point Chicot 4 492 
 
 GreenviUe, Miss 4 496 
 
 Grand Lake Landing, Ark 40 536 
 
 Princeton, Miss 5 541 
 
 Lake Proridence, La 19 570 
 
 Tompkinsville, La 15 585 
 
 CampbellBYille, La 16 601 
 
 Millikinsville, La 10 601 
 
 Tazoo Elver, Mass., and 1 a riq 
 
 Sparta,La: ] ^ ^^ 
 
 Walnut Hills, Miss 10 629 
 
 Ticksburg, Miss 2 631 
 
 Warrenton, Miss 10 641 
 
 Carthage Landing, La 19 660 
 
 Point Pleasant, La 10 670 
 
 Big Black Eiver. 14 684 
 
 Grand Gul^ Miss 2 686 
 
 St. Joseph^ La., and ) -iq ggg 
 
 Bruinsburg, Miss. ) 
 
 Eodney,Mi88 10 706 
 
 Natchez, Miss 41 747 
 
 Ellis ClifF, Miss 18 765 
 
 Homoohitto Eiver, Miss 26 791 
 
 FortAdams 10 801 
 
 Eed Eiver Island 11 812 
 
 Eacoourci Cut-off and Bend 10 822 
 
 Bayou Sara, St. Francisville, } nn 852 
 
 and Point Coup6e, La. J 
 
 PortHudson,La 11 868 
 
 Baton Eouge, La. 25 888 
 
 Plaquemine, La 23 911 
 
 Bayou La Fourche, and 1 ^ 945 
 
 Donaldsonville, La. J 
 
 Jefferson College 16 961 
 
 Bonnet Carre Church 24 985 
 
 Eed Church, La 16 1001 
 
 Carrollton, La 19 1020 
 
 Lafayette, La 4 1024 
 
 New Orleans, La 2 1026 
 
 Island ]\o. 1 (6 miles below the 
 mouth of the Ohio), opposite which, in 
 Kentucliy, a short distance from the 
 river, are the remains of Fort Jefferson, 
 erected by General George Roger Clark, 
 in the spring of IT8O. This fort was 
 built by order of Gov. Jefferson of Vir- 
 ginia, for the protection of the naviga-. 
 
COLCUBUS.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 
 
 [Whiie RiTmv 
 
 tion of the Mississippi, and to secure it 
 to that State, in which this territory was 
 then included. 
 
 Passing Norfolk, opposite Island No. 
 1, Mckwith's, a small village, t miles be- 
 low, and Baldwinsmlle, we reach 
 
 Colnmltiis, Ky. (18 miles), capital 
 of Ballard County, more fully described in 
 Route VIII. of Kentucky. Just above are 
 the Iron Banks, extending along the 
 river, on the same side, for about 2 miles, 
 and so called from their color resembling 
 iron-rust. Columbus was occupied by 
 Confederate troops under General Polk 
 (Sept. 4, 1861), and defended by from SO 
 to 100 guns. On the naval expedition down 
 the river (March, 1862) it was found to 
 have been evacuated shortly before. 
 
 BUckman, Ky. (37 miles), for- 
 merly MUrs Point, is a thriving village, 
 the county-seat of Pulton County. It does 
 an active business in shipping the prod- 
 uce of the surrounding country, and has 
 a tin-factory and iron-foundery. Popula- 
 tion in IStO, 1,120. 
 
 Island. IVo. lO (69 miles), near 
 ObionvUle, Tenn., was the scene of a ter- 
 rific bombardment from the Mississippi 
 River fleet, extending from March 16 to 
 April Vj, 1862, in which the Federals 
 were completely successfiil. The canal 
 which was cut to assist in the investment 
 of the island, and the remains of some 
 of the earthworks, can still be seen in 
 passing the island. 
 
 WefV JMadrid, Mo. (79 miles), 
 was the scene of a great earthquake in 
 1811. It was settled in 1780. A large 
 shipping business is carried on here. 
 The works constructed by the Confeder- 
 ates for the defence of the town can be 
 seen from the river. New Madrid was 
 captured at the same time as Island No. 
 10, both places having been parts of one 
 position, and mutually dependenj; on each 
 other. This was the first battle of the war 
 m which the superiority of gunboats to 
 stationary batteries was clearly demon- 
 strated. 
 
 Point Pleasant, Mo. (86 
 miles), was occupied by General Pope 
 preparatory to the attack on Island No. 
 10, and in order to complete the invest- 
 ment of that place. 
 
 IjittlePrairfe, Mo. (113 miles), 
 is a postal town of Crawford County. 
 
 Asliport, Tenn. (146 miles), ia 
 a pretty little village in the northwest 
 part of Lauderdale County, directly on 
 the banks of the river. 
 
 Osceola, Arlf. (158 miles), is the 
 first landing in Arkansas, and is a pleas- 
 ant Uttle town ; capital of Mississippi 
 County. 
 
 Port Pillo-w (166 miles), situated 
 on the first Chickasaw Bluff, near Island 
 33 and Plum Point, was evacuated by the 
 Confederates June 4, 1862. It was after- 
 ward the scene of a horrible butchery by 
 the troops under the Confederate General 
 Forrest (April 12, 1864), known in his- 
 tory as the Fort Pillow massacre, though 
 the testimony concerning it is conflicting, 
 and probably exaggerated on both sides. 
 
 Pulton, Xenn. (168 miles), is 
 situated on a high bluff in Lauderdale 
 County. 
 
 Poi^ Randolph (178 miles), on 
 the second Chickasaw Bluff, like Fort 
 Pillow, is a Confederate work. It was 
 evacuated by them about the same time. 
 The village of Randolph, which consisted 
 of about 40 dwellings, was burnt by Gen- 
 eral Sherman's orders. 
 
 Crreenock, Ark. (225 miles), is 
 a small village situated in Crittenden 
 County, and doing a good business. 
 
 Mempliis, Xenn. (246 miles), is 
 fully described in chapter on Tennessee. 
 {Bee page 221.) 
 
 Sterling', Ark. (316 miles), is a 
 post-town of Phillips County, situated at 
 the mouth of St. Francis River, a stream 
 flowing southeastward from the interior. 
 This is, next to the Arkansas, the largest 
 river in Arkansas, and one of the largest 
 tributaries of the Mississippi south of the 
 Ohio. 
 
 Melena, Ark. (326 miles), a thriv- 
 ing town before the war, with a popula- 
 tion of 5,000, was occupied by the troops 
 of General Curtis on their return from 
 the interior of the State (July, 1862). It 
 is in Phillips County, 80 miles below 
 Memphis, and was almost entirely de- 
 stroyed by fire in the summer of 1852. 
 
 Montgomery's Point, 
 Ark., and Victoria, Miss. (402 
 miles), are two little towns opposite each 
 other, one on each side of the river. 
 
 ■Wkite Kiver (406 miles), which 
 enters the Mississippi 161 miles below 
 247 
 
Napoleon.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [BATor Pierre 
 
 Memphis, and 80 miles below Helena, 
 was the scene of active operations during 
 a great part of the war. It is about 800 
 miles long, and is navigable S60 miles to 
 the month of the Black River. Duvall's 
 BluiF, Des Arc, and Batesville, are on its 
 banks. 
 
 IVapoleon, Ark. (422 miles), at 
 the mouth of the Arkansas River, is 
 next reached in the voyage down-stream. 
 This is a place of considerable trade dur- 
 ing the boating season in the Arkansas. 
 It is about 126 miles by land southeast 
 of Little Rock. The United States Marine 
 Hospital, with all the supplies it contained, 
 was seized by the Confederate authori- 
 ties upon the secession of the State (May 
 6, 1861). The Arkansas River is a large 
 stream, about 2,000 miles in length, for 
 800 of which it is navigable for steamers. 
 It rises in the Rocky Mountains, and, 
 next to the Missouri, is the largest tribu- 
 tary of the Mississippi. 
 
 ColumMa, Ark. (488 miles), 
 capital of Chicot County, is a pleasant 
 little town. At this point commences 
 the great cotton-growing region, and the 
 banks of the river are an almost continu- 
 ous succession of plantations. Just be- 
 low here commences the growth of the 
 Spanish moss which, covering the trees 
 with its dark and sombre drapery, forms 
 such a notable feature of the river sce- 
 nery. 
 
 Greenville, misfs. (496 miles), 
 is an unimportant little post-village in 
 Washington County. 
 
 <Sra.itd Kjake (636 miles), in Chi- 
 cot County, is on the Arkansas side of 
 the river. Steamboats usually laud here 
 with supplies for the neighboring plant- 
 ers. There is fine gunning in the neigh- 
 borhood. 
 
 Princeton, Miss. (641 miles), 
 capital of Washington County, is a land- 
 ing-place and shipping-point for the plan- 
 tations in the neighborhood of Lake 
 Washington, five miles in the interior. 
 BwiuMs Bend and Cvi-off, 10 miles be- 
 low Princeton, runs through a swamp, 
 and is but a few miles across, while the 
 main stream flows round a circuitous 
 bend of nearly 18 miles. 
 
 Providence, Iia. (670 miles), 
 capital of Carroll County, is a handsome 
 village doing a large trade in shipping 
 248 
 
 cotton and supplying the planters in the 
 interior. Just at the back of the town 
 is the lake from which it derives its 
 name, on the banks of which are many 
 fine cotton-plantations. On the opposite 
 side of the river is one very large planta- 
 tion. 
 
 TompkinsTille, Hia. (88S 
 miles), is a neat little place extending 
 for some distance along the river, and 
 containing several fine residences. 
 
 Yazoo Biver, Miss. (619 miles), 
 is formed by the junction of the Talla- 
 hatchie and Tallobusha Rivers, and the 
 main stream is about 300 miles long. It 
 is a deep, narrow, and sluggish river, 
 traversing an alluvial plain of extreme 
 fertility, which is mostly occupied by 
 plantations of cotton. It is probably not 
 surpassed in navigable qualities by any 
 river of equal size ; steamboats navigate 
 it from its mouth to its origin in all sea- 
 sons of the year. It was the scene of 
 important military and naval operations 
 during the late war. 
 
 "Walnnt Hills, Miss. (629 
 miles), extend along the river for about 
 two miles. They rise to the height of 
 nearly 600 feet, and display the finest 
 scenery of the Lower Mississippi. They 
 are highly cultivated, and hence very at- 
 tractive in appearance. 
 
 Ticks'bnrg, Miss. (631 miles), 
 is fully described in chapter on Missis- 
 sippi. The city presents a striking ap- 
 pearance viewed from the deck of the 
 steamer. 
 
 Big; Black Biver (684 miles) 
 rises in Choctaw Comity, Mississippi, and, 
 after a course of about 200 miles, enters 
 the Mississippi 14 miles below Point 
 Pleasant. It flows mostly through a 
 level and fertile region, chiefly occupied 
 by cotton-plantations. It is navigable 
 for some . 60 miles. The point at which 
 this river joins the Mississippi is called 
 Grand Gulf, and the town of 
 
 etranfl CinU; Miss. (686 miles), 
 is situated two miles below, in Claiborne 
 County. 
 
 Bayou Pierre empties into the 
 Mississippi 10 miles below. Keel-boats 
 can ascend as far as Port Oibson, which 
 is a flourishing town, 28 miles from its 
 mouth. It is the county-seat of Clai- 
 borne County, Mississippi. 
 
St. Joseph's.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 
 
 [XArCHSZ. 
 
 St. JosepH's, I^a., and nru> 
 
 insliurg, Bliss. (696 miles), are 
 two little villages facing each other on 
 opposite sides of the river. 
 
 Kodney, Miss. (706 miles), is a 
 thriving town in Jefferson County, 40 
 miles above Natchez. It does a good 
 trade, and has several churches, ware- 
 houses, etc. 
 
 rVatcbez, Miss, (lil miles), capi- 
 tal of Adams County, is built mostly on 
 a high bluff, nearly 200 feet above the 
 level of the river, and is the oldest city 
 in the State. That portion of the town 
 on the margin of the river is called 
 " Natchez-TJnder-the-Hill." Natchez was 
 founded by D'lberville, a JFrenchman, in 
 1700, and is replete with historic asso- 
 ciations. Here once lived and flourished 
 the noblest tribe of Indians on the conti- 
 nent, and from that tribe she takes her 
 name. Their pathetic story is festooned 
 with the flowers of poetry and romance. 
 Their ceremonies and creed were not un- 
 lilce those of the Fire -worshippers of 
 Persia. Their priests kept the fire con- 
 tinually burning upon the altar in their 
 Temple of the Sun, and the tradition is, 
 that they got the fire from heaven. Just 
 before the advent of the white man, it is 
 said, the fire accidentally went out, and 
 that was one reason why they became 
 disheartened in their struggles with the 
 pale-faces. The last remnant of the race 
 were still existing a few years ago in Tex- 
 as, and they still gloried in their paterni- 
 ty. It is probable that the first explorer 
 of the Lower Mississippi River, the un- 
 fortunate La Salle, landed at this spot on 
 his downward trip to the sea. It is a 
 disputed point as to where was the lo- 
 cation of the first fort. Some say it lay 
 back of the town, while others say it was 
 established at Ellis's Cliffs. In 1713, 
 Bienville established a fort and trading- 
 post at this spot. The second, Fort 
 Rosalie, or rather the broken profile of 
 it, is still visible. It is gradually sinking, 
 by the earth being undermined by sub- 
 terranean springs, and, in a few years, 
 not a vestige of it will be left. Any one 
 now standing at the landing can see the 
 different strata of earth distinctlymarked, 
 showing the depth of the artificial earth- 
 works. The spot has been the subject 
 of great contention in its day. The 
 
 French, Spanish, English, and tTnitcd 
 States, have held it in succession. Dur- 
 ing its occupancy by the English, the 
 name was changed to Fort Panmure. 
 Strong efforts were made by the Spanish 
 to build up a great city, and, when a 
 common man applied to Governor Gayo- 
 za for lots in a certain quarter, on what 
 is now Canal and Broadway, he said they 
 were reserved for Spanish grandees, who 
 were to come over and settle there. On 
 the spot called " Myrtle Bank " are the 
 faint traces of temporary earthworks, 
 said to have been thrown up by Captain 
 Guion, when he sent word to the Spanish 
 commandant of Fort Rosalie that, if the 
 flag was seen on the following morning, 
 he would fire on it. On that night, March 
 30, 1799, before daylight, the Spaniards 
 evacuated the fort, and the United States 
 flag was immediately raised over its bat- 
 tlements. Within the recollection of 
 some now living, the bottom under the 
 hill extended half a mile from the foot 
 of the bluff toward the river. It was 
 there that stores were first built, and the 
 people from the country did their shop- 
 ping. The abrasion of the river has 
 worn away this bottom and forced the 
 buildings back to the very foot of the 
 bluff. When the Americans got full pos- 
 session of the place, immigration flowed 
 in rapidly and spread out around the ad- 
 jacent country. The city was incorporated 
 as early as 1803. It stands next in age 
 to New Orleans, of the cities on the banks 
 of the Lower Mississippi. 
 
 The depth of water at the. landing is 
 sufficient for the largest vessels, but the 
 landing itself is too cramped. " Under- 
 the-Hill," in old times, did not have an 
 enviable reputation, but, of late years, it 
 has become the place of heavy business- 
 houses. Some travellers have passed 
 Natchez and seen " ITnder-the-Hill " only, 
 and never know that she was literally " a 
 city set upon a hill." She has had more 
 than her share of misfortunes. The fira 
 and the tornado have swept over her. 
 The tornado of May 7, 1840, was terrible 
 beyond description, and laid her in ruins. 
 Natchez has been peculiarly unfortunate 
 in hotels. Parker's Hotel, that once stood 
 on the comer of State and Canal, was ut- 
 terly demolished by the tornado, and has 
 never been rebuilt. The large Mansion 
 249 
 
Natchez.] 
 
 SOUTHEEN TOUE. 
 
 [Bed Biyer Isladd. 
 
 House was destroyed by fire in 1862, and 
 the City Hotel in 1862, and the square 
 upon whicli they once stood is now al- 
 most vacant. 
 
 There are few more beautifully orna- 
 mented spots than Brown's Gdrdiri, at the 
 upper " tJnder-the-Hill." It is in the 
 spring time like the vale of Cashmere, a 
 garden where the very sod is carpeted 
 with flowers. The most picturesque view 
 is from the bluff. Here the eye rests 
 upon the level, alluvial plain of Concordia 
 County, with its gem. Lake Concordia. 
 The Winding river can be seen for miles 
 above and below. A sunset view from 
 the Natchez Bluff* is very beautiful. In 
 approaching the place down the river, 
 the traveller is pointed to three curious 
 jungles that are called the " DeviVs 
 Punch Bowl." We know not how they 
 got this name. The earth seems to have 
 sunk down in a bowl-like form in three 
 places contiguous to each other. Before 
 the war they were thick with dense for- 
 ests and undergrowth, and were great 
 harbors for fugitives from justice, and 
 runaway negroes. But it has been cleared 
 up now, and the bottom and sides are in 
 cultivation. 
 
 Natchez, on the hill, presents a beauti- 
 ful appearance. Almost every street is 
 shaded by trees, principally China, inter- 
 spersed with water-oaks and other forest- 
 trees, and cedar and laurimunda. Of all 
 the public buildings, the Boman Catholic 
 Cathedral, situated on corner of Main and 
 Union, stands out in bold relief the most 
 conspicuous. On the diagonally opposite 
 comer is the beautiful Masonic Temple. 
 The Episcopal Church, on Commerce 
 Street, is a modest but chaste building, 
 whose portico is modelled after the " Par- 
 thenon of Athens." On the opposite cor- 
 ner from this is the nev/, beautiful tem- 
 ple of the Hebra Kadusha Society. The 
 Preshyterian Church, with its lofty spire, 
 and bearing the town-clock, fronts on 
 Pearl Street. And a little north of it rises 
 the commodious building of the Natchez 
 JnstUute — ^which institute has been for 
 many years the chief pride and glory of 
 the city. The CourirHouse fronts on 
 Wall Street, and has a public square 
 shaded with trees, and immediately back 
 of it are the Market-House and City Hall. 
 The Baptist Church stands on the comer 
 250 
 
 of Wall and State Streets. The new 
 Met/iodisl Churdh is on the corner of 
 Union and Jefferson Streets. The once 
 Second Presbt/terian Chv/rch, now Colored 
 Methodist, fronts the delta on Pine Street. 
 The Rose JHUl Baptist Colored Church is 
 on Madison, and a large Colored Institute 
 is being built on Union, between Monroe 
 and High Streets. The most ^classical 
 (looking) building is the Commercial 
 Bank, fronting on Main Street ; it is 
 built of marble, and has a front Ionic 
 portico. Commerce Street has taken its 
 name from being the cotton - market. 
 There are three Orphan Asylums: the 
 St. Mary's Rorrum, Catliolic, on corner of 
 Jefferson and Bankin ; the Deveremx 
 Sail (Boman Catholic), in the suburbs, 
 and the Otphan Asylum (Protestant) at 
 the head of Union Street. The State 
 Hospital, which is for indigent sick, 
 fronts on St. Catherine Street. The 
 United States Marine Hospital is situated 
 on an elevated site on the cemetery road. 
 Just north of it lies the city graveyard, 
 and, a little farther on, the United States 
 National Cemetery. 
 
 Before the war, the environs of the 
 city were fringed with handsome resi- 
 dences. Some of them have been de- 
 stroyed, some are still occupied, and 
 bear the scars of the late struggle, while 
 others, though now tenantless, still retain 
 the marks of their former beauty. There 
 are factories of various sorts in operation 
 in the city. The iron-founderies, that did 
 a flourishing business before the war, 
 have ceased. The population of the city 
 was about 9,057 at the last census. Its 
 limits have been greatly enlarged by a 
 recent act of the Legislature. On the 
 score of health, Natchez is unsurpassed 
 by any city in America. Even during 
 yellow-fever epidemics, which come but 
 seldom, its mortuary statistics, on an 
 average, would compare favorably with 
 any place of its size in the United States. 
 It is especially healthy for children. As 
 an illustration : The Natchez Institute, 
 in a session of 10 months, in the years 
 1869-"?0, with over 400 pupils, only lost 
 one by death, and that was by an acute 
 disease. The reports before those years 
 show pretty much the same. 
 
 Red Ri-rer Island (812 miles) 
 is a small island at the mouth of the Bed 
 
Red Riveb.] 
 
 MISSISSIPPI BIVER. 
 
 [Plaqueuine. 
 
 Birer, which empties into the Mississippi 
 at this point. 
 
 Ked Ri-rer, which is the most im- 
 portant tributary of the Mississippi, after 
 the Missouri and Arlcansas Rivers, is 
 about 1,200 miles long in its main chan- 
 nel, and, including the South Fork, up- 
 ward of 2,100 miles. It is formed by 
 two streams called the North and South 
 Forks, the former rising in New Mexico, 
 and the latter in the northeast part of 
 the Llano Estacado or Staked Plain of 
 Texas, described in the chapter on that 
 State. Its course is almost directly east- 
 ward till it reaches Fulton, in Arkansas, 
 and then it flows southeastward to its 
 mouth. Duiing eight months of the year, 
 it is navigable to Shreveport, a distance 
 of about 500 miles, and navigation is good 
 as far as Alexandria in all stages of the 
 water. Just above Shreveport is the 
 "Great Raft," formed of logs which 
 float down the stream, and are caughi 
 in a bend of the river. The raft was 30 
 nules long, and till lately formed an in- 
 superable obstacle to navigation. 
 
 Bayon. Sara, M^a. (862 miles), 
 is a thriving village, in West Feliciana 
 County, at the southern terminus of a 
 railway leading to Woodville, Mississippi. 
 It is a shipping-point for the cotton and 
 com produced in the vicinity, and has a 
 considerable trade. The bayou, of the 
 same name, enters the river here, and 
 Point Couple and St. FrancisvUle are 
 near by. 
 
 Port Hudson, Kia. (863 miles), 
 is a post-village of East Feliciana County, 
 at the terminus of the Clinton & Port 
 Hudson Railway, and does an active husi- 
 nesa. It was one of the chief fortifica- 
 tions of the Confederates on the Missis- 
 sippi, and was the scene of an unsuccess- 
 ful attack, during the summer of 1863, 
 by General Banks from New Orleans. It 
 was then besieged, and surrendered to the 
 Federal forces (July 9th) on receipt of 
 the news of the fall of Vicksburg. 
 
 Baton Konge, JLa. (888 miles), 
 the former capital of that State, is pleas- 
 antly situated on the last bluff that is seen 
 in descending the river. The site is 30 
 to 40 feet above the highest overflow of 
 the river. The bluff rises by a gentle and 
 gradual swell, and the town, as seen from 
 the river, in the months when the great- 
 
 est verdure prevails, rising regularly 
 and beautifully from the banks, with its 
 singularly -shaped French and Spanish 
 houses, and its queer squares, looks like 
 a finely-painted landscape. It is one of 
 the most delightfully situated places on 
 the Lower Mississippi. From Baton Rouge 
 to New Orleans, the " coast," as it is called, 
 is lined with plantations. Every spot, 
 susceptible of cultivation, is transformed 
 into a beautiful garden, containing speci- 
 mens of all those choice fruits and flowers 
 which flourish only in tropical climes. 
 From the esplanade, the prospect is 
 charming, commanding a great extent of 
 the coast, with its handsome houses and 
 rich cultivation, and an extensive view 
 of the back country at the east. Baton 
 Rouge contains a fine State -House, a 
 Court-House, a Penitentiary — a substan- 
 tial brick edifice, 320 feet long — contain- 
 ing 240 cells for convicts, and Baton 
 Rouge College, which has a fine library 
 attached. Hotel : Harney House. 
 
 Pla.q^neniine, I>a. (911 miles), is 
 the next landing-place of any importance. 
 It is situated near the mouth of the Pla- 
 quemiue Bayou, 23 miles south of Baton 
 Rouge. Previous to the war large 
 amounts of cotton were shipped to New 
 Orleans from this point. Fifty miles 
 south of Plaquemine, the old Jefferson 
 College rises in view on the left bank 
 of the river, and, in a couple of hours 
 more, the quaint old church of Bonnet 
 CarrS is passed. We are now rapidly 
 approaching the end of our long journey. 
 Thirty-five miles below Bonnet Carr6 the 
 boat passes in sight of the pleasant vil- 
 lage of CarroUton, beyond which, in a big 
 bend of the river, lies the Crescent City 
 of the South. As the boat steams to her 
 landing on the spacious levee, the trav- 
 eller will have a fine opportunity afforded 
 him of seeing not only the business por- 
 tion of the city, but the young town of 
 Algiers and other neighboring points. 
 He will also note a material change in 
 the aspect of the river. No one who de- 
 scends the Mississippi River, for the first 
 time, receives clear and adequate ideas 
 of its grandeur, and the amount of water 
 it carries. If it be in the spring of the 
 year, when the river, below the mouth 
 of the Ohio, generally overflows its banks, 
 although the sheet of water that is mak- 
 251 
 
Bayou ia Fouechb.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Laiatette Citj, 
 
 ing its way to the Gulf is perhaps 30 miles 
 wide, yet, finding ita way through deep 
 forests and swamps, that conceal all from 
 the eye, no expanse of water is seen but 
 the width that is curved out between the 
 outline of woods on either bank, and it 
 seldom exceeds, and oflener falls short of, 
 a mile. But when he sees, as he must, 
 in descending its entire length, that it 
 swallows up one river after another, with 
 mouths as wide as itself, without affect- 
 ing its width at all ; when he notes the 
 mighty Missouri, the broad Ohio, the St. 
 Francis, White, Arkansas, and Red Riv- 
 era, all of them of great depth, length, 
 and volume of water, swallowed in rapid 
 succession ; when he sees this mighty 
 river absorbing them all, and retaining a 
 volume apparently unchanged, he begins 
 to estimate rightly the increasing depths 
 of current that must roll on in its deep 
 channel to the sea. 
 
 Bayou HiSi Fonrcbe, lia,, 
 (945 miles), leaves the Mississippi at 
 Donaldsonville, and flows in a direct line 
 to the Gulf of Mexico. It is thickly set- 
 tled on both sides, and is navigable during 
 most of the year for a, distance of 60 
 miles. 
 
 ]>oita.IdsonTllle, capital of As- 
 cension County, Louisiana, was formerly 
 the capital of the State. It is -pleasantly 
 situated, and is a place of considerable 
 trade and wealth. 
 
 Can-oUton, Hia. (1,020 miles), 
 is a flourishing town in Jefferson County, 
 seven miles above New Orleans, with 
 which it connects by a railroad that runs 
 to the centre of the city. The CarroUton 
 252 
 
 Gardens are beautifully laid out, and are 
 open to the public. A day may be well 
 spent in this charming suburb of the 
 " Crescent City." 
 
 Kiafayette City, lia. (1,024 
 miles), is but a continuation of New Or- 
 leans. A steam-ferry is constantly run- 
 ning from this to the oppositfe shore, and 
 there is another to New Orleans. Most 
 of the flat-boats, bound for New Orleans, 
 land at Lafayette. 
 
 NeTT Orleans, I^a. (1,026 miles), 
 is fully described in chapter on Louisiana. 
 {See page 190.) 
 
 After playing the part of Guide for so 
 long, we now take leave of the reader 
 with no little regret. If he have accom- 
 panied US on the overland tour from Bal- 
 timore through the vast tier of Atlantic 
 and Gulf States, he has been introduced 
 to some of the most picturesque, varied, 
 and romantic scenery on the continent. 
 If, on the Other hand, he have come with 
 us down the the Ohio and Mississippi 
 from Pittsburg to New Orleans, he has 
 made the grandest river-trip the world af- 
 fords. In either case we leave him in the 
 most picturesque and striking of Ameri- 
 can cities, and in the midst of a people 
 conspicuous alike for their hospitality 
 and their courteous attention to stran- 
 gers. Once comfortably domiciled at the 
 St. Charles or the St. Louis, the traveller 
 will have ample time to lay out his own 
 plans for the future ; so wishing him, 
 wherever or however he may go, a hoa 
 voyage, and a safe return from his South- 
 ern Tour, we bid him adieu. 
 
Thb West Indies.] 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 [Cuba. 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 Jdst o£f the southern coast of-FIorida, 
 and stretching across the entrance to the 
 Gulf of Mexico, lies a very extensive 
 group of islands, which, though their 
 sovereignty is distributed among nearly 
 all the leading European powers, are 
 known collectively as " the West In- 
 dies," and are so laid down upon the 
 maps. The total length of this group is 
 upward of 3,000 miles, and it embraces 
 more than 1,200 islands and islets, with 
 a total area of 1SO,000 square miles. 
 Tliey may be divided into three great 
 systems ; the Greater Antilles, which 
 comprises the four largest and finest isl- 
 ands in the archipelago^Cuba, Jamaica, 
 Hayti (or San Domingo), and Porto Rico, 
 with the smaller islands along their 
 coasts; the Leaser Antilles, embracing 
 the southern islands of the group in the 
 Caribbean Sea ; and the Bahamas, form- 
 ing the most northern portion of the sys- 
 tem, of which they are also the most 
 numerous and the least valuable and in- 
 teresting. 
 
 The West Indies are generally consid- 
 ered to be the remains of a mountain- 
 range, which at some remote period unit- 
 ed the continents of North and South 
 America. Some of the Lesser Antilles 
 are flat, but the general character of the 
 entire group is bold, with a single moun- 
 tain or cluster of mountains in the cen- 
 tre, which slope to the sea all around — 
 more precipitously on the east side, which 
 is exposed to the force of the Atlantic 
 current. Volcanic action in the archi- 
 pelago is confined to the smaller islands ; 
 others possess craters recently extinct 
 that have vomited ashes and lava within 
 historical periods. The most consider- 
 able eruptions in modem times have been 
 those of St. Vincent, but, more remotely, 
 San Domingo and Jamaica have been the 
 scene of some of the most tremendous 
 earthquakes on record. 
 
 San Salvador, one of the Bahamas, 
 was the first land discovered in America, 
 Columbus having landed on it in October, 
 1492, and it was not until the next voy- 
 age of the great navigator that the Amer- 
 ican continent was discovered. When 
 first discovered, all these islands teemed 
 with a dense native population, but they 
 were exterminated by the early Spanish 
 colonists, and for many generations have 
 been wholly extinct. Some of the smaller 
 islands are barren and uninhabited ; but, 
 for the most part, they are covered with 
 a vegetation of tropical luxuriance and 
 beauty. 
 
 Owing to their delightfully temperate 
 climate, the West Indies have, for many 
 years, been the resort, especially in win- 
 ter, of consumptives and other invalids 
 from the United States ; and this is our 
 reason for including them in the pres- 
 ent Hand-book. Even in the summer 
 season the thermometer rarely rises 
 above 90°, while in winter the temper- 
 ture is like the balmiest spring of the 
 temperate zone. 
 
 In the following pages we shall con- 
 fine our descriptions to those points 
 which are most frequented and most gen- 
 erally accessible to travellers. 
 
 CUBA. 
 
 Cuba, " The Queen of the Antilles," 
 the largest and most important of the 
 West India islands, lies in the Caribbean 
 Sea, about 130 miles south of Florida, 
 from which it is separated by the Baha- 
 ma Channel. It is 760 miles long at its 
 longest part, and its width varies from 
 25 to 130 miles, the total area being 
 47,278 square miles. The island has a 
 coast-line nearly 2,000 miles in length, 
 but, owing to the almost continuous reefs 
 and the low level of the lands skirting 
 the sea-shore, it is in general very diffi- 
 263 
 
CiTBA.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Cuba, 
 
 cult of approach, and there are onlv 
 three or four really good harbors. A 
 mountain-range traverses the island from 
 end to end, dividing it into two unequal 
 sections — ^that on the north side being 
 for the most part the narrower of the 
 two. This range gives great diversity to 
 the surface, and from the bases of the 
 highlands the country opens into exten- 
 sive meadows, or beautiful plains and 
 savannas, with occasionally some low, 
 swampy tracts. There are very few rivers 
 of any magnitude in Cuba, and a large 
 portion of the territory is subject to se- 
 vere droughts; yet, the gently undula- 
 tory surface, the continually renewed 
 verdure, and the wonderful distribution 
 of vegetable forms, give rise to the most 
 various and beautiful landscapes. Every- 
 where the eye falls only upon a mass of 
 luxuriant vegetation, and nowhere is the 
 structure of the country to be seen ex- 
 cept on the scarred and treeless moun- 
 tain-slopes. Coming in midwinter from 
 the North Atlantic seaboard, when half 
 the United States are buried in snow and 
 the forests are stripped naked, the travel- 
 ler finds in Cuba a more wooing climate 
 and a more bountiful profusion and luxu- 
 riance of vegetable growth than even in 
 imagination he ever pictured to himself. 
 Climate. — The climate of Cuba is very 
 much like that of Florida, but even more 
 uniform and agreeable. During the hot- 
 test months (July and August), the aver- 
 age temperature is only 83° ; and the 
 coldest (December and January) present 
 the mean of a Uttle less than 70°. In 
 summer the thermometer seldom rises 
 above 84°, and its depression in winter so 
 low as 60°, or even 63°, is extremely rare. 
 The seasons are generally divided into the 
 wet and the dry ; rain often descends in 
 torrents from July to September, and oc- 
 casional showers fall for a month or two 
 before and after these periods. No snow 
 is ever known to fall even on the highest 
 mountains ; but hail-storms are rather 
 frequent at times, and hoar-frosts are not 
 uncommon. The climate is considered to 
 be, in general, remarkably healthy. In the 
 lowlands, summer fevers sometimes pre- 
 vail, and to these strangers are said to be 
 especially liable, but the higher parts of 
 the island are salubrious all the year 
 round. The yellow fever is justlv feared 
 254 
 
 by Europeans and those coming from 
 more temperate climates, but the Cuban 
 physicians believe that this disease is not 
 indigenous, and was not known in the 
 island fill 1762. It is not yet known in 
 the interior, and its appearance at many 
 places is recent. The best time to visit 
 Cuba is between November and May. , 
 
 History. — Cuba was discovered by 
 Christopher Columbus, on October 28, 
 1492. It was first called Juana, then 
 Femandina, and afterward Santiago, 
 and Ave Maria. " Cuba " is the naine 
 given it by the natives, and this came 
 ultimately into general use. The first 
 Spanish settlements in the island were 
 made in 1611, and, with unimportant 
 interruptions, the dominion of Spain has 
 remained undisturbed, until the present 
 insurrection broke out in 1868. In 1762, 
 the city of Havana was captured by the 
 British, but, after being held for a year, it 
 was restored to Spain. 
 
 Hallways. — Internal communication 
 was formerly very difficult, owing to the 
 absence of good roads, but has much im- 
 proved since the introduction of rMlways, 
 which were used in Cuba before they 
 were in any Spanish-speaking country, 
 the first, that from Havana to Guines, 
 having been opened in 1837. There are 
 now 829 miles in operation in the island, 
 comprising the following lines : the JSo- 
 i)ana, from Havana to Union, 77 miles, 
 with branches from Guines to Matanzas, 
 36 miles ; the Marianas Mailway, from 
 Havana to Marianas, 7 miles ; the Rail- 
 way of the Bay, from Havana to Matan- 
 zas, 66 miles, with a branch from Matan- 
 zas to Bemba, 44 ; the Wesk/rn, from Ha- 
 vana to San Cristobal, 63 miles ; Ba^ 
 hana de Soble to Madriza, 4 miles ; Min- 
 cofito Chianajay, 32 miles ; BanFelApe to 
 Batabano, 10 miles ; the Matamsas, from 
 Matanzas to Baro, 68 miles, with a 
 branch from Navajas to Torriente, 16 
 miles ; the Cardenas & Iruiaro, from Car- 
 denas to Navajas, 36 miles, with branches 
 from Bemba to Macagua, 46 miles ; Car- 
 denas to Falmillas, 61 miles ; Macagua to 
 Santo Domingo, 37 miles ; to Itabo, 14 
 miles ; the Sagua la Grande, from Sagua to 
 Las Cruces, 48 miles ; the Puerto Principe, 
 from Puerto Principe to Nuevitas, 62 
 miles ; the Cienfwegos & Villa Clara, 
 from Cienfuegos to Villa Clara, 61 miles ; 
 
Havana.] 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 [Hatana. 
 
 the Caibarien & Santo JEspirilu, from Cai- 
 barien to San Andres, 24 miles ; the San- 
 iiaffo de Cuba, from Santiago to San Luis, 
 28 miles ; the Cobre, from Santiago to 
 Cobre, 11 miles ; and the Trinidad, from 
 Port Gasilda to Trinidad, and Trinidad to 
 Guinea, 19 miles. 
 
 Havana. Sow to reach it. — From 
 New York, Havana may be reached by 
 'I New York and Havanna direct mail 
 line," sailing every Tuesday from Pier 
 13 (foot of Cedar Street) North River. 
 Also by " Alexandre's line," sailing every 
 Thursday and occasionally on Saturdays, 
 from Pier 3 North River. Pare (cabin), 
 $50 gold. 
 
 From Philadelphia, by New Orleans 
 steamers, which sail on the 1st and 15th 
 of each month. 
 
 From Baltimore, by steamers, which 
 also sail semi-monthly during the winter. 
 I From New Orleans, by Philadelphia 
 
 1 and Baltimore steamers, returning semi- 
 I monthly ; but the German Lloyd steamers 
 are decidedly the best; they sail monthly. 
 Havana, the largest city, and chief 
 commercial port of the West Indies, is 
 situated on the northwest coast of Cuba, 
 on a fine bay setting up from the Gulf of 
 Mexico. Its harbor, formed by this bay, 
 which nowhere exceeds a mile and a half 
 in width, is one of the best in the world, be- 
 ing deep enough for vessels of the largest 
 , size, sufBciently capacious to accom- 
 modate at least a thousand ships-of-war, 
 and so safe that vessels ride securely 
 without cable or anchor. The approach 
 to the city is very impressive, the en- 
 trance to the harbor being half a mile in 
 length, so narrow that only a single ves- 
 sel can pass at a time, and with massive 
 fortifications on either side, throughout 
 the whole distance. At the mouth of 
 this channel, which is less than a quar- 
 ter of a mile wide, are two strong cas- 
 tles, the Pimta on the west side, con- 
 nected with another castle in the city, 
 and on the east the famous Morro Castle, 
 beetling with artillery, and surmounted 
 by a fixed light, 144 feet high. La Ca- 
 ba/Oa, situated a little southeast of Mor- 
 ro Castle, is the strongest fortress of Ha- 
 vana, and half a dozen others are passed 
 before the inner harbor is reached. The 
 walls which formerly encircled the city 
 proper, were removed several years ago. 
 
 The city, as viewed from the sea, has 
 a very picturesque and beautiful appear- 
 ance, with its numerous spires, it mas- 
 sive edifices, its wide-spreading suburbs, 
 and background of hills ; but, when onco 
 the traveler is within, it is found to 
 present but few attractions. Though 
 well laid out, the streets are for the 
 most part narrow, badly paved, dirty, 
 with sidewalks from 18 to 24 inches in 
 width, and lined with heavy stone struct- 
 ures, closely crowded together, and gen- 
 erally provided with ponderous folding- 
 doors and barred windows, giving the 
 whole town a sombre and gloomy appear 
 ance. 
 
 The handsomest portion of the city is 
 in the vicinity of the great central square, 
 or Plaza de Armas, once a beautiful en- 
 closure, intersected by paved walks, and 
 adorned with statues, fountains, flowers, 
 and shrubbery ; but now much neglect- 
 ed, and rapidly falling into decay. There 
 is music by the regimental bands almost 
 every evening. Here are situated the 
 palace of the Governor of Havana, the 
 palace of the intendant, and many of the 
 government offices. Opposite the gov- 
 ernor's palace is a beautiful chapel, the 
 Templete, erected on the spot where the 
 first mass was celebrated in Havana af- 
 ter the removal of the city to its present 
 site. This foundation occurred in 1519, 
 when a pilot having discovered that the 
 channel between Cuba and the North 
 American continent was the most conven- 
 ient passage for ships from Mexico to 
 Europe, " La Habana " was selected as a 
 port to receive them, the name La Ha- 
 bana having previously been applied to 
 the town known at present as Bataba- 
 no. In 1538 the city was captured and 
 burned by a French privateer, and, to 
 prevent a recurrence of this catastrophe, 
 the Castillo de la Fuersa, still standing, 
 was bunt by Hernando de Soto, then 
 Governor of Cuba. In 1554, however, 
 the French again attacked and destroyed 
 the town. The English failed in an as- 
 sault upon it in 1665 ; but, in 1762, af- 
 ter an obstinate resistance, it was taken 
 by an English fleet and army under Lord 
 Albemarle. The following year it was 
 restored to Spain under the Treaty of 
 Versailles, since which time the govern- 
 ment has been almost constantly em- 
 256 
 
Havaka.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOXm. 
 
 [Matanzas. 
 
 ployed in increasing its strength and de- 
 veloping its resources. 
 
 The churches in Havana are numerous, 
 and richly ornamented with gold and sil- 
 ver lamps, images, pictures, and carv- 
 ings. The Oaihedral contains the ashes 
 of Christopher Columbus, which were 
 brought hither from San Domingo in 
 1796. The other public buildings most 
 deserving of attention are the Mcchange, 
 an extensive structure, surmounted by a 
 tower; the Custom- House, Post- Office, 
 Hoyxl Tobacco Manufactory, the grand 
 Opera-House (which is said to be nearly 
 as large as La Scala, Milan), and two 
 Theatres. 
 
 Among the educational and scientific 
 institutions are the Hoyal Vniversily, 
 which has a fine building, and includes a 
 medical college, law school, and chairs 
 for the natural sciences, the whole con- 
 ducted by a rector and a numerous corps 
 of professors ; a Museum of Katural His- 
 tory, an institution called the Meal Socie- 
 dad Economica, a Botanic Garden, and 
 an Academy of Fine Arts. The chari- 
 table institutions comprise the Cuna, or 
 Foundling Hospital ; the San Lazaro, 
 a hospital for persons afflicted with laza- 
 rino, a kind of leprosy, peculiar to the 
 West Indies, and said to be incurable ; a 
 large hospital occupying the ancient Con- 
 vent of San Juan de Dios ; the Casa 
 Real de Beneficencia, an extensive and 
 well-endowed institution, combining an 
 orphan asylum, a lunatic asylum, and an 
 infirmary ; besides numerous convents 
 and other benevolent establishments. 
 The Prison is a large quadrangular build- 
 ing, so situated as to secure a free circu- 
 lation of the sea-breeze. The chief cigar- 
 manufactories and the shops are well 
 worth a visit, being almost unique of 
 their kind. 
 
 In consequence of the heat of the cli- 
 mate, the inhabitants of Havana, save 
 the business community, remain in-doors 
 during the day ; but, in the evening, the 
 delightful promenades (paseos) of the 
 city and its environs present a most ani- 
 mated spectacle, being thronged with the 
 gay and fashionable of both sexes. The 
 elegant dress, grace, and beauty of the 
 Havanese ladies (who always ride when 
 abroad) displayed on these occasions, and 
 at the theatres, seldom fail to elicit the 
 •- 256 
 
 admiration of visitors. There are also 
 many beautiful drives around Havana, 
 and driving is one of the favorite recrea- 
 tions of the wealthier classes. One of 
 the favorite drives is to Marinao. On 
 Sunday afternoons all Havana may be 
 seen driving on the Paseo. 
 
 Besides the railways and steamship 
 lines already mentioned, Havana is con- 
 nected by almost daily lines of steamprs 
 with Matanzas, Cardenas, Jucaro, and 
 other chief ports. 
 
 Hotels : The Sotd de Inglaterra, in 
 the Calle del Prado, beside the Tacon 
 Theatre (Opera-House), affording a mag- 
 nificent view of the harbor; El Tde- 
 grafo, very good, in the newer part of 
 the city, in the Amis tad Street, opposite 
 the Campo Marie; San Carlos, over- 
 looking the harbor ; Madame Altny's, a 
 very favorite boarding-house, generally 
 with those residing some time. Bestau- 
 rants and cafes are numerous ; the best 
 of the former is at 72 Cuba Street. 
 
 JMatanzas, which ranks next to 
 Havana in commercial importance, is 
 also situated on the northwest coast of 
 Cuba, about fifty miles east of the latter. 
 Travellers remaining only a few days in 
 Cuba wUl find a visit to Matanzas satis- 
 factory. Go by regular route, and re- 
 turn by Guines to Villanueva. 
 
 The bay which forms the port is spa- 
 cious, easy of access, and completely 
 sheltered from all winds, except those 
 coming from the northeast, which bring 
 ill a heavy swell. The city is strongly 
 fortified, is situated on an extensive flat 
 on both sides of the San Juan River, 
 which brings down large quantities of 
 mud, materially impeding the navigation 
 of the harbor. The houses are built 
 very substantially, mostly of stone, but 
 without the, slightest pretension to archi- 
 tectural beauty, so that Matanzas, though 
 prettier than Havana, is singularly unim- 
 pressive and destitute of picturesqueness. 
 The principal edifices are the Castle of 
 San Severino, a fortification of great 
 strength, a fine hospital, the city theatre, 
 and the extensive military barracks. The 
 Plaza de Armas is a favorite evening 
 promenade, where music may be enjoyed. 
 A very brisk trade in sugar, molasses, cof- 
 fee, fruits, and the other productions of 
 the island, is carried on here. Matanzas 
 
Santiago se Cdba.] 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 [Jauaioa. 
 
 is reached in two hours from Havana three 
 times a day by one railway, 56 miles long, 
 and in fonr hours twice a day by another, 
 and by a line of steamers, which sail daily, 
 and make the trip in five hours. 
 
 Hotels : Leon de Oro (not very good), 
 and the Hotel Frances. 
 
 Santiago de Caba, situated 
 almost at the other end of the island, 
 and on its south side, was formerly the 
 capital of Cuba, and is still second in 
 rank and population. It lies on the river 
 Santiago, six miles from its mouth, and 
 has a port four mUes long, which is deep 
 enough for ships-of-war, and strongly 
 fortified. The city is regularly laid out, 
 on a steep acclivity, with wide streets — 
 some very precipitous — and handsome 
 houses wliieh are chiefly built of stone ; 
 but, being hemmed in by mountains on 
 all sides, it is very unhealthy, and is the 
 chief seat of yellow fever on the island. 
 Santiago is an archbishop's see, and the 
 residence of the governor of the Eastern 
 Division, who is independent of the Cap- 
 tain-General of Cuba ; it is, consequent- 
 ly, nest to Havana, the liveliest city in 
 Cuba. The principal buildings are the 
 governor's palace, the cathedral, several 
 other churches, the College of San Ba- 
 silio, a hospital, and numerous convents 
 and schools. Santiago de Cuba may be 
 reached by taking the railway from Ha- 
 vana to Batabano, and a steamer from 
 the latter point, which touches at Cien- 
 faegos, Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Man- 
 zaiollo, reaching Santiago in five days. 
 
 Puerto Principe is the chief 
 city of the interior, and in population 
 nearly equals Matanzas. It is the capital 
 of the. Central Department, and is now 
 the headquarters of the army operating 
 against the insurgents. The city is not 
 an attractive one, and the ctimafie is hot 
 and humid, though mild in winter, and at 
 that time somewhat resorted to by inva- 
 lids. Puerto Principe is connected by a 
 railway, 56 miles long, with the port of 
 Nuevitsis, through which it communi- 
 cates with the outside world. 
 
 JAUAICA. 
 
 Jauaica, one of the Greater Antilles, 
 lies in the Caribbean Sea, about 90 miles 
 Bouth of Cuba and 120 miles west of 
 
 Hayti, from which it is separated by the 
 Windward Channel. It is the largest of 
 the British West India Islands, and forms 
 the chief possession of Great Britain in 
 this portion of the world. Its greatest 
 length from east to west is 160 miles, 
 and its average breadth is about 41 
 miles. It has an area of 6,400 square 
 miles. The general appearance of the 
 island is extremely beautiful. On the 
 north it rises into hills of gentle as- 
 cent, covered with groves of pimento 
 and a brilliant verdure, and intersect- 
 ed by vales which exhibit the most ro- 
 mantic scenery ; while on the south it 
 presents abrupt precipices and inaccessi- 
 ble cliffs, the general efiect being height- 
 ened by the profusion of streams which 
 pour from every valley, and frequently 
 precipitate themselves from the overhang- 
 ing rocks into the ocean. The Blue 
 Mountains traverse the island in all 
 directions, reaching an altitude in some 
 localities of 7,200 feet. The declivities 
 are covered with stately forests, and 
 between the mountain -ranges and the 
 foot of the central plain are spacious 
 savannas and extensive plains. The 
 coast-line is 600 miles lon^, and is in- 
 dented with a great number of excellent 
 harbors, of which Port Koyal, the har- 
 bor of Kingston, is the most considera- 
 ble. 
 
 Jamaica was discovered by Columbus 
 during his second voyage, in 1494, and 
 was taken possession of by the Spaniards 
 in 1509. So great was the inhumanity 
 of the conquerors that, fifty years after 
 the Spanish invasion of the island, the 
 native population had entirely disap- 
 peared. On May 8, 1656, a British ex- 
 pedition, sent out by Oliver Cromwell, 
 under Admirals Penn and Venables, cap- 
 tured the island, which was formally 
 ceded to England by the Treaty of Mad- 
 rid, in 1670. During the 160 years of 
 Spanish domination, the inhabitants, in- 
 cluding Africans and Europeans, had net 
 attained the number of 3,000. Witbia 
 about the same period of English rule 
 the estimated census showed 340,000. la 
 1861 the total population was 441,284, 
 of whom 13,816 were whites and the 
 rest half-breeds or blacks. In 1865 there 
 was an insurrection of the blacks, which 
 was put down by the notorious Governor 
 2S7 
 
Kingston.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUa. 
 
 [Spanish Taws. 
 
 Eyre with relentless rigor. These blacks 
 had been liberated in 1882. , 
 
 Climate. — The climate varies consider- 
 ably — the torrid belt of the coast gradu- 
 ally passing into the temperate re^on of 
 the central heights. The latter is said 
 to be remarkably favorable to longevity; 
 and the north side of the island healthier 
 than the south. The mean annual tem- 
 perature at Kingston is 'TS'.S ; in sum- 
 mer 81°; in winter '76°.2. The rainy 
 seasons are from Hay to August and from 
 October to November. Hurricanes are 
 less frequent and less violent than in 
 most other portions of the archipelago — 
 a peculiarity ascribed, in some measure, 
 to the shelter afforded by the larger isl- 
 ands of Hayti and Cuba. Earthquakes 
 are frequent and sometimes violent ; in 
 1692 the town of Port Boyal was sub- 
 merged several fathoms beneath the 
 ocean. Hurricanes occur for the most 
 part between July and October, and, 
 though not so frequent as in the Wind- 
 ward Islands, they are sometimes most 
 destructive. One of the most appalling 
 occurred on the 3d of October, 1780. 
 The little seaport town of Savannah-la- 
 Mar, on the southwest coast of the isl- 
 and, was completely destroyed. During 
 the conflict of the elements, the sea 
 burst furiously over it, and in an instant 
 swept tuhabitants and houses into the 
 abyss, leaving no vestige of either. The 
 best time to visit the island is between 
 December and May. 
 
 Jamaica may be reached by steamer 
 from Havana. 
 
 Ekingston is the chief commercial 
 city and seaport of Jamaica. It is situ- 
 ated on the north side of a fine harbor 
 on the south coast, ten miles from Span- 
 ish Town, with which it is connected by 
 a railway. The entrance to the harbor 
 and the harbor itself are defended by 
 several formidable forts, which frown 
 down upon ships as they enter. Kings- 
 ton stands on a gently-sloping plain, 
 which is bound in on the north by the 
 loftiest ridge of the Blue Mountains, the 
 intervening space being agreeably diver- 
 sified with country residences, and, near 
 the mountains, with sugar-estates. The 
 city is regularly laid out, its houses being 
 mostly two stories in height, and fur- 
 nished with wide verandas. The prin- 
 268 
 
 cipal buildings are the English and Scotch 
 churches, several chapels, two syna- 
 gogues, a hospital, the schools, the Work* 
 house, the new penitentiary, and the the- 
 atre ; there are also an Atheneeum and a 
 Society of Arts. Upper Park Camp, with 
 the barracks, is about a mile and a half 
 north of the city. 
 
 Spanish Voiim., or Santiago de 
 la Yega, the capital of Jamaica, is built 
 on the bank of the river Cobre, ten miles 
 west of Kingston. It is the official resi- 
 dence of the Governor of Jamaica, and 
 the seat of the superior courts of the 
 island ; but it is otherwise of little impor- 
 tance, and is ill-built and unhealthy. The 
 traveller will hardly find it worth a visit, 
 and it presents no attractions as a place 
 of residence. 
 
 THE BATTAMAS. 
 
 The Bahama or Lucayo Islands form, 
 as we have said, the most northern sys- 
 tem of the West India group, and stretch 
 from the north side of San Domingo to 
 the coast of Plorida. They embrace in- 
 numerable rocks, islets, and islands, of 
 which not more than twelve or fourteen 
 are inhabited : these are New Provi- 
 dence, Turk's Island, Eleuthera, Exuma, 
 Harbor Island, Crooked Island, Long Isl- 
 and, St. Salvador, Caicos, Watling's Isl- 
 and, Bum Key, Heneagua, Great Baha- 
 ma, and Lucayo, now Cidled Abaco. The 
 principal islands are situated on those 
 remarkable flats caUed the Bahama 
 Banks, of which the Great Bank (lying at 
 the western extremity of the archipelago) 
 occupies a space 300 miles in length, and 
 80 in breadth. The deepest water on 
 any part of this bank is thirty feet, but 
 the patches of coral-rock and dry sand 
 are innumei'able. These banks rise al- 
 most perpendicularly from an unfathom- 
 able depth of water, and are formed of 
 coral, with an a,ccumulation of shells and 
 calcareous sand. The character of the 
 islands is generally long and narrow, low, 
 and covered with a light sandy soil, their 
 figure and surface throughout being near- 
 ly the same. The Bahamas belong to 
 Great Britain. 
 
 Climate. — The climate is very salu- 
 brious, and very beneficial to consump- 
 tives. The more northern islands, dur- 
 ing the winter months, are rendered cool 
 
Nassau.] ' 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 [Down the Islands. 
 
 and agreeable by the northwest breeze 
 that blows from off the continent of 
 America; the more southern are hot 
 throughout the year, and are low, barren, 
 and rocky. 
 
 Nassau, which is pretty much the 
 only place in the Bahamas frequented by 
 travellers, is the capital of New Provi- 
 dence, and seat of government for all the 
 islands. It is wellbviilt, defended by two 
 forts, and has a handsome governor's 
 residence, some barracks, a prison, a hos- 
 pital, and an agricultural society. The 
 harbor is sheltered by Hog Island, and 
 has two entrances passable by vessels 
 drawing fourteen feet of water. During 
 the late civil war, it developed a great 
 business as rendezvous for the various 
 vessels engaged in running the blockade 
 of the Southern ports. This temporary 
 prosperity has now departed, but Nassau 
 has excellent hotel accommodation (the 
 Moydl Victoria is the best), and is still 
 probably the pleasantest and most &e- 
 juented invalid resort in the West In- 
 dies. 
 
 It may be reached from New York 
 by Alexandre's line of Havana steamers, 
 sailing semi-monthly from Pier 3 North 
 Eiver. 
 
 BOWK THE ISIiANSS. 
 
 It is of course impossible for us to 
 even enumerate the countless islands 
 which make up the West Indian archi- 
 pelago, but some of the attractions, which 
 are general to nearly all of them, are ad- 
 mirably pointed out by Charles Kingsley, 
 in his book on " The West Indies," and 
 from his second chapter we condense the 
 following account of a sail " down the 
 islands " (from St. Thomas) : 
 
 " I had heard and read much from 
 boyhood," he writes, " about these ' Les- 
 ser Antilles.' I had pictured them to 
 myself a thousand times, but I was alto- 
 gether unprepared for their beauty and 
 gfandeur. For hundreds of miles, day 
 after day, the steamer carried us past a 
 shifting diorama of scenery, which may 
 be likened to Vesuvius and the Bay of 
 Naples, repeated again and again, with 
 every possible variation of the same type 
 of delicate loveliness. Under a cloudless 
 sky, upon a sea lively, yet not unpleas- 
 antly rough, we thrashed and leaped 
 
 along. Ahead of us, one after another, 
 rose high on the southern horizon banks 
 of gray clouds, from under each of which, 
 as we neared it, descended the shoulder 
 of a mighty mountain, dim and gray. 
 Nearer still, the gray changed to purple ; 
 lowlands rose out of the sea, sloping up- 
 ward with those grand and simple eon- 
 cave curves which almost always betoken 
 volcanic land. Nearer still, the purple 
 changed to green. TaU palm-trees and 
 engine-houses stood out against the sky ; 
 the surf gleamed white around the base 
 of isolated rocks. A little nearer, and 
 we were under the lee, or western side 
 of the island. The sea grew smooth as 
 glass ; we entered the shade of the 
 island-cloud, and slid along in still, un- 
 fathomable blue water, close under the 
 shore of what should have been one of 
 the Islands of the Blessed. 
 
 " It was easy, in presence of such sce- 
 nery, to conceive the exaltation which 
 possessed the souls of the first discover- 
 ers of the West Indies. What wonder if 
 they seemed to themselves to have burst 
 into Fairyland — ^to be at the gates of 
 the earthly paradise ? With such a cli- 
 mate, such a soil, such vegetation, such 
 fruits, what luxury must not have seemed 
 possible to the dwellers along those 
 shores ? What riches, too, of gold and 
 jewels, might not be hidden among those 
 forest-shrouded glens and peaks ? And, 
 beyond, and beyond again, ever new isl- 
 ands, new continents, perhaps, an inex- 
 haustible wealth of yet undiscovered 
 worlds. 
 
 " I said that these islands resembled 
 Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples. Like 
 causes have produced like effects, and 
 each island is little but the peak of a 
 volcano, down whose shoulders lava and 
 ashes have slidden toward the sea. Some 
 carry several crater-cones, complicating 
 at once the structure and scenery of the 
 Island ; but the majority carry but a sin- 
 gle cone, like that little island, or rather 
 rock, of Saba, which is the first of the 
 Autilles under the lee of which the steam- 
 er passes. Santa Cruz, which is left to 
 leeward, is a long, low, ragged island, of 
 the same form as St. Thomas's and the 
 Virgins, and belongs, I should suppose, 
 to the same formation. But Saba rises 
 sheer out of the sea some 1,500 feet or 
 2S9 
 
Down the Islands.] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOTTB. 
 
 [Down the Isiands. 
 
 more, without flat ground, or even har- 
 bor. From a little landing-place to lee- 
 ward a stair runs up 800 feet into the 
 bosom of the old volcano, and in that 
 hollow live some 1,200 honest Dutch, and 
 some 800 negroes, who were, till of late 
 years, their slaves, at least in law. But 
 in Saba, it is said, the whites were really 
 the slaves, and the negroes the masters ; 
 for they went off whither and when they 
 liked; earned money about the islands, 
 and brought it home; expected their 
 masters to keep them when out of work, 
 and not in vain. The island Was, happi- 
 ly for it, too poor for sugar-growing and 
 the " grande culture ; " the Dutch were 
 never tempted to increase the number of 
 their slaves ; looked upon the few they 
 had as friends and children,, and, when 
 emancipation came, no change whatso- 
 ever ensued, it is said, in the semi-feudal 
 relation between the black men and the 
 white. So these good Dutch live peace- 
 fully aloft in their volcano, which, it is 
 to be hoped, will not explode again. 
 They grow garden-crops, among which, I 
 understand, are several products of the 
 temperate zone, the air being, at that 
 height, pleasantly cool. They seU their 
 produce about the islands. They build 
 boats up In the crater — ^the best boats in 
 all the West Indies — and lower them 
 down the cliff to the sea. They hire 
 themselves out, too — not having lost 
 their forefathers' sea-going instincts — as 
 sailors about all those seas, and are, like 
 their boats, the best in those parts. They 
 all speak English, and, though they are 
 nominally Lutherans, are glad of the ser- 
 vices of the excellent Biship of Anti- 
 gua,- who pays them periodical visits. 
 He described them as virtuous, shrewd, 
 simple, healthy folk, retaining, in spite 
 of the tropical sun, the same clear, white- 
 and-red complexions which their ances- 
 tors brought from Holland two hundred 
 years ago — a proof, among many; that 
 the white man need not degenerate in 
 these isles. 
 
 " Much more recent — ^in appearance, at 
 least — ^is the little Isle of St. Mustatius, 
 or, at least, the crater-cone, with its lip 
 broken down at one spot, which makes 
 up five-sixths of the island. St. Eusta- 
 tius may have been in eruption, though 
 there is jio record of it, during historic 
 260 
 
 times, and looks more unrepentant and 
 capable of misbehaving itself again than 
 does any other crater-cone in the Antil- 
 les ; far more so than the souffrih-e in 
 St. Vincent, which exploded in 1812. 
 
 " But these two are mere rocks. It is 
 not till the traveller arrives at 81. Kitts 
 that he sees what a West Indian island is. 
 
 " The ' Mother of the Antilles,' as she 
 is called, is worthy of her name. Every- 
 where from the shore the land sweeps 
 up, slowly at first, then rapidly, toward 
 the central mass, the rugged peak where^ 
 of goes by the name of Mount Misery. 
 Only once, and then but for a moment, 
 did we succeed in getting a sight of the 
 actual Summit, so pertinaciously did the 
 clouds crawl around it. Thirty -seven 
 hundred feet aloft a pyramid of black 
 lava rises above the broken walls of an 
 older crater, and is, to judge from its 
 knife-edge, flat top, and concave eastern 
 side, the last remnant of an inner cone, 
 which has been washed, or, more prob- 
 ably, blasted away. Beneath it, accord- 
 ing to the report of an islander to Dr. 
 Davy (and what I heard was to the same 
 effect), is a deep hollow, longer than it is 
 wide, without an outlet, walled in by 
 precipices and steep decUvities, from fis- 
 sures in which steam and the fumes of 
 sulphur are emitted. Sulphur in crystals 
 abounds, incrusting the rocks and loose 
 stones, and a stagnant pool of rain-water 
 occupies the bottom of the sowffrih-e. 
 
 " The steamer passes each island only 
 once a fortnight, so that to land in an isl- 
 and is equivalent to staying there at least 
 that time, unless one chooses to take the 
 chances of a coasting-schooner, and bad 
 food, bugs, cockroaches, and a bunk, 
 which — ^but I will not describe them. 
 ' Non ragionam di lor, ma guarde ' 
 (down the companion) ' e passa.' 
 
 " I must therefore content myself with 
 describing, as honestly as I can, what 
 little we saw from the sea of islands, at 
 each of which we would gladly have 
 stayed several days. As the traveller 
 nears each of them — ffuadeUoupe, Do- 
 minica, Martinique (of which last two we 
 had only one passing glance), St. Vin- 
 cent, St. iMcia, and Grenada — he will be 
 impressed not only by the peculiarity of 
 their form, but by the richness of their 
 color. All of them do not, like St. Eitts, 
 
Down the Islands. 
 
 THE WEST INDIES. 
 
 [Down the Islands; 
 
 Guadaloupe, and St. Vincent, slope up to 
 one ceutrid peak. In Martinque, for in- 
 stance, there are three separate peaks, or 
 groups of peaks, the Mont Pel^e, the Pi- 
 tons du Carbet, and the Fiton du Yau- 
 dain. But all have that peculiar jagged 
 outline ivhich is noticed first at the Vir- 
 ffa Islands. 
 
 " Flat ' vans,' or hog-hacked hills, and 
 broad sweeps of moorland, so common 
 in Scotland, are as rare as are steep 
 walls of cliif, so common in the Alps. 
 Pyramid is piled on pyramid, the sides of 
 each at » slope of about 45°, till the 
 whole range is a congeries of multitudi- 
 nous peaks and peaklets, round the base 
 of which spreads out, with a sudden 
 sweep, the smooth lowland of volcanic 
 ash and lava. This extreme raggedness 
 of outline is easily explained. The moun- 
 tains have never been, as in Scotland, 
 planed smooth by ice. They have been 
 ' gouged out, in every direction, by the 
 furious tropic rains and tropic rain-tor- 
 rents. Had the rocks been stratified and 
 tolerably horizontal, these rains would 
 have cut them out into table - lands, di- 
 vided by deep gullies, such as may be seen 
 in Abyssinia and in certain parts of the 
 Western United States. But these rocks 
 are altogether amorphous and unstrati-' 
 fied, and have been poured or spouted 
 out as lumps, dikes, and sheets of lava, 
 of every degree of hardness ; so that the 
 rain, in degrading them, has worn them, 
 not into tables and ranges, but into in- 
 numerable cones. And the process of 
 degradation is still going on rapidly. 
 Though a cliff, or sheet of bare rocks, is 
 hardly visible among the glens, yet here 
 and there a bright, brown patch tells of 
 a recent land-slip ; and the masses of 
 debris and banks of shingle, backed by a 
 pestilential little swamp at the mouth 
 of each torrent, show how furious must 
 be the downfall and down-roll before 
 the force of a suden flood, along so head, 
 long an incline. 
 
 " But, in strange contrast with the rag- 
 ged outline, and with the wild devasta- 
 tion of the rainy season, is the richness 
 of the verdure which clothes the isl- 
 ands, up to their highest peaks, in what 
 seems a coat of green fur, but, when 
 looked at through the glasses, proves to 
 be, in most cases, gigantic timber. Not 
 
 a rock is seen. If there be a cliff here 
 and there, it is as green as an English 
 lawn. Steep slopes are gray with groa- 
 groo. palms, or yellow with unknown flow- 
 ering trees. High against the sky-line 
 tiny knots and lumps are found to be gi- 
 gantic trees. Each glen has buried its 
 streamlet a hundred feet in vegetation, 
 above which, here and there, the gray 
 stem and dark crown of some palmisie 
 tower up like the mast of some great 
 admiral. The eye and the fancy strain 
 vainly into the green abysses, and wan- 
 der up and down over the wealth 
 of depths and heights, compared with 
 which European parks and woodlands 
 are but paltry scrub and shaugh. No 
 books are needed to tell that. The 
 eye discovers it for itself, even before 
 it has learned to judge of the great size 
 of the vegetation from the endless vari- 
 ety of form and color ; for the islands, 
 though green intensely, are not of one, 
 but of every conceivable green, or rather 
 of hues ranging from pale yellow through 
 all greens into cobalt blue ; and as the 
 wind stirs the leaves, and sweeps the 
 lights and shadows over hill and glen, all 
 is ever-changing, iridescent, fike a pea- 
 cook's neck, till the whole island, from 
 peak to shore, seems some glorious jewel 
 — an emerald with tints of sapphire and 
 topaz, hanging between blue sea and 
 white surf below, and blue sky and cloud 
 above. If the reader fancies that I ex- 
 aggerate, let him go and see. Let him 
 lie for one hour off the Rousseau at Domi- 
 nica. Let him sail down the leeward 
 side of Guadaloupe, down the leeward 
 side of what island he will, and judge for 
 himself how poor, and yet how tawdry, 
 my words are, compared with the lus- 
 cious yet magnificent coloring of the An- 
 tilles. 
 
 "The traveller, at least so I think, would 
 remark also, with some surprise, the 
 seeming smallness of these islands. The 
 Basse Terre of Guadaloupe, for instance, 
 is forty miles in length. As you lie off 
 it, it does not look half or even a quar- 
 ter of that length, and that not merely 
 because the distances north and south • 
 are foreshortened, or shut in by nearer 
 headlands. The causes, I believe, are 
 more subtle and more complex. First, 
 the novel clearness of the air, which 
 261 
 
Down in& Islands;] 
 
 SOUTHERN TOUR. 
 
 [Down the Islands. 
 
 makes the traveller, fresh from misty 
 England, fancy every object far nearer, 
 and therefore far smaller, than it actually 
 IS. Kext, the simplicity of form. Each 
 outer line tends upward so surely toward 
 a single focus — each whole is so sharply 
 defined between its base-line of sea and 
 Its background of sky, that, like a statue, 
 each island is compact and complete in 
 Itself, an isolated and self-dependent or- 
 ganism, and therefore, like every beauti- 
 ful statue, it looks much smaller than it 
 is. So perfect this isolation seems, that 
 262 
 
 one fancies, at moments, that the island 
 does not rise out of the sea, but floats 
 upon it ; that it is held in place, not by 
 the root of the mountains, and deep 
 miles of lava-wall below, but by tbfe cloud 
 which has caught it by the top, and will 
 not let it go. Let that cloud but rise, 
 and vanish, and the whole beautiful thing 
 will be cast adrift, ready to fetch way 
 before the wind, and (as it will seem 
 often enough to do when viewed through 
 a cabin-port) to slide silently past you, 
 while you are slidrng past it." 
 
OUTLINES OF THKOUGH ROUTES, 
 
 Telling how to reach any important City in the Southern States 
 from New York, 
 
 BALTIMOEE. 
 
 1. Kew York to Baltimore, via Philadelphia, 90 miles; WUmington, Del., 118; 
 
 Baltimore, 189. Time, '1 hours ; fare, $6.66. • 
 
 2. New Tork to Baltimore, via " Old Dominion Line " of steamers (Tuesdays, Thurs- 
 
 days, and Saturdays, from Pier 37, North River). Fare, $10. Passengers by 
 this line take " Chesapeake Bay " steamers from Norfolk to Baltimore. 
 
 ■VTASHDfGTON CITY. 
 
 New Tork to Washington, via Philadelphia, 90 miles ; Baltimore, 189 ; Washington, 
 228. Time, 8 hours, 20 mmutes ; fare, $7.60. 
 
 EICHMOKD, VA. 
 
 1. New Tork to Richmond, via Baltimore ; thence by steamer down Chesapeake 
 
 Bay to Norfolk ; thence by steamer up James River to Richmond, 509 miles. 
 Pare, $12.86. 
 
 2. Via steamer from Baltimore down Chesapeake Bay, and up Tork River to West 
 
 Point ; thence by rail (38 miles) to Richmond. Fare, $12.86. 
 
 3. Via Baltimore and Washington ; thence by steamer down Potomac River to 
 
 Acquia Creek, Va. ; thence by rail to Richmond, 358 miles. Time, 15 hours ; 
 fare, $12.86. 
 
 4. Via Baltimore and Washington ; thence via Baltimore & Potomac Railroad to 
 
 Richmond (all rail). Fare, $12.86. Passengers can use the same ticket on either 
 this or the preceding route. 
 
 5. Via " Old Dominion Line " of steamers (three times a week) to Norfolk and Rich- 
 
 mond. Time, 36 hours ; fare, $10. 
 
 CHAELE8T0N, S. 0. 
 
 1. New Tork to Charleston, via Baltimore, Richmond, Wilmington, Florence, and 
 Charleston, 768 miles. Time, 42 hours ; fare, $28.76. 
 
OUTLINES OF THROUGH ROUTES. 
 
 2. New York to Charleston, via Baltimore, Richmond, Danville, Columbia, and 
 Charleston. Time, 63 houra ; fare, $26.15. 
 
 S. Via New York & Qharleston Zine of Simmers. Sailing-days : Tuesdays, Thurs- 
 days, and Saturdays, from Pier 29, North River. Time, about 60 hours ; fare 
 (cabin), $20. 
 
 SATAIWAH, 6A, 
 
 1. New York to Savannah, via Richmond, Danville, Charlotte, N. C, Augusta, 6a., 
 
 and Savannah, 964 miles. Time, about 54 hours ; fare, $29.'75. 
 
 2. Via Richmond, Petersburg, Wilmington, Charleston, and Savannah, 8^2 miles. 
 
 Time, 84 hours ; fare, $29.75. 
 
 8. Via Great SaiOhem Mail Bmcte to Washington, Lynchburg, EnosviUe, At- 
 lanta, Macon, and Savannah, 1,242 miles. Time, 3 days, 9 hours ; fare to 
 Macon, $83.50. No through Tickets. 
 
 4. Via ocean-steamer. There are three lines of steamers from New York to Savan- 
 nah, viz. : Murray, Ferris & Co.'s, from Pier 16, East River ; W. R. Garrison's, 
 from Pier 8, North River ;»and R. Lowden's, from Pier 13, North River, Tues- 
 days, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Time 60 hours ; fare (cabin), $20. There 
 are, also, steamers to Savannah from both Philadelphia (every Saturday) and 
 Baltimore (three times a month). Those from Philadelphia take about the 
 same time, and charge the same fare, as from New York ; while those from 
 Baltimore require a few hours less time, and are $5 cheaper. 
 
 MOBILE, ALA. 
 
 1. New York to Mobile, via Baltimore, Richmond, Danville, Charlotte, Augusta, At- 
 
 lanta, West Point, Ga., Montgomery, and Mobile, 1,364 miles. Time, 72 
 hours ; fare, $46. 
 
 2. Via "Great Southern Mail Route." New York, Baltimore, Washington, Lynch- 
 
 burg, Bristol, Enoxville, Dalton, Rome, Montgomery, and Mobile, 1,278 miles. 
 Time, 2 days, 19 hours ; fare, $45. 
 
 3. Via Outline 2 to Knoxville, Tenn. ; thence via Chattanooga, Corinth, Muldon, 
 
 Meridian, and Mobile, 1,401 miles. Time, 3 days ; fare, $46. 
 
 4. Passengers from the West can reach Mobile by way of Louisville and Nashville, 
 
 going from the latter place to Chattanooga, and thence via preceding route ; 
 or to some point on the MohUe & Ohio RailvMy, running through Tennessee, 
 Mississippi, and Alabama. This is, also, a pleasant route for travellers who 
 wish to see something of the West before making the Southern tour. 
 
 NEW OELEAJBTS. 
 
 1. New York to New Orleans, via " Great Southern Mail Route." Baltimore, 
 Washington, Lynchburg, Bristol, Knoxville, Dalton, Rome, Montgomery, Mo- 
 bile, and New Orleans, 1,405 miles. Time, 73 hours ; fare, $50. 
 
 8. Via preceding route to Knoxville ; thence via Chattanooga, Corinth, Meridian, 
 Mobile, and New Orleans, 1,539 miles. Time, about 80 hours ; fare, $60. 
 264 
 
OUTLINES OF THROUGH ROUTES. 
 
 5. Via any of the " Grand Through. Routes," described in Hand-Book of Travel, 
 
 Western Tour, to Cincinnati ; thence via Louisville, Memphis, Jackson, and 
 New Orleans. Distance from Cincinnati, 881 miles. No change of cars. 
 4.. Via steamer from Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, or St. Louis, down the Ohio 
 and Mississippi Rivers. During the greater part of the year, this is the pleas- 
 antest route by which the tourist can reach New Orleans. Full descriptions, 
 with tables of distances, are given in the chapters on the Ohio and Mississippi 
 
 RiTEBS. 
 
 6. Via ocean-steamer from New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. There are three 
 
 lines from New York, viz. : The " Merchants' Line," sailing every Saturday from 
 Pier 5, North River ;, the " Southern Line," sailing every Wednesday from Pier 
 21, East River ; and the " Cromwell Line," sailing every Saturday from Pier 9, 
 North River. Time, 1 days ; fare (cabin), $50. 
 The Philadelphia and New Orleans steamers sail semi-monthly, touching at Havana. 
 Time (including stoppages at Havana and Key West) 11 days ; fare, $60. The 
 Baltimore steamers, also, sail semi-monthly ,^nd touch in winter at Havana 
 and Key West. Time (to New Orleans direct), 8 days ; fare, $50. 
 
 GALYESTOIf, TEXAS. 
 
 1. New Orleans to Galveston, via " Morgan Line of Steamers," which run four times 
 
 a week from New Orleans to Galveston, and Indianola, via Berwick Bay. A 
 new line of steamers, taking passengers at reduced rates by the outside route, 
 has recently been established, and now runs regularly between New Orleans 
 and Galveston. 
 
 2. New York to Galveston, via ocean-steamer, sailing every Saturday from Pier 20, 
 
 East River. Time, 8 days ; fare (cabin), $65. These steamers touch at Key 
 West. 
 
 L0UI3VLLLE AHB NASHYILLE. 
 
 Via any of the " Grand Through Routes," described in the Western Tour, to Cin- 
 cinnati, and thence via Louisville, Lexington & Cindnnali Railway to Louisville. 
 Nashville is reached from Louisville via Louisville & Nashville Mailway, 185 
 miles. They may also be reached from Chattanooga, via Nashville & C/iaiia- 
 nooga RaUway. Louisville may be reached, by steamboat, from any point on 
 Ohio or Mississippi River. 
 
 [Note. — ^The above Outlines are merely intended to suggest to the traveller the various Boutes 
 be can select in visiting any given point. l?nll descriptions of the places mentioned, and of the iiaeg 
 traversed, will be found in the body of the Guide.— Editoe.] 
 
 265 
 12 
 
INDEX. 
 SOUTHERN TOUE. 
 
 Abbettlle, 8. 0., 136. 
 Aberdeen, Miss., 187. 
 Abingdon, Ya.^T. 
 Acquia Creek, Va., 67. 
 Aiken, 8. C, 135. 
 Alabama Eiver, 177. 
 Alabaster Mountain, Ark., 214. 
 Alexandria, Ta., 64. 
 Algiers, La., 202. 
 AUegliany, Va., 87. 
 Alleghany Springs, Va., 104. 
 Alpativkee Swamp, Fla., 174. 
 Altamont, Md., 21. 
 Altoona, Ga., 136. 
 Americus, Gra.. 152. 
 Anderson, S. C, 186. 
 Annapolis, Md., 23. 
 Appalachicola, Fla., 173. 
 Appomattox, Va., 81. 
 Arkansas EiTCr, 213. 
 Arkansas Post, Ark., 214. 
 Arlington, Va., 42. 
 Artesia, Miss., 187. 
 Ashland, Va., 74. 
 Ashland, Ky., 228. 
 Ashport, Tenn., 247. 
 Athens, Tenn., 221. 
 Atlanta, Ga., 149. 
 Angnsta, Ga., 147. 
 Angusta, Ky., 239. 
 Aurora, Ind., 240. 
 Austin, Tex., 208. 
 
 Bainbridge, Ga., 155. 
 Baldwin, Fla., 167. 
 Baltimore, Md., 5. 
 Bardstown, Ky., 229. 
 BamesTille, Gk,, 151. 
 Bastrop, Tex., 211. 
 Batesville, Ark., 214. 
 Bath Alam Springs, Va., 99. 
 Baton Eonge, La., 203, 251. 
 Bayou la Fourche, La., 252. 
 Bayou Pierre, La., 248. 
 Bayou Sara, Iia., 251. 
 Eeanfort, S. C, 188. 
 Bedford Alum Springs, Va., 105. 
 Belmont, Ky., ?39. 
 Belpre, O., 237. 
 Benwood, W. Va., 90. 
 Berkeley Springs, Va., 106. 
 Bcrryville, va., 65. 
 Bethel, Tenn., 223. 
 
 Big Black Eiver, 186, 243. 
 Black Mountain, N. C., 118. 
 Black "Warrior Eiver, 177. 
 Blennerhassett's Island, 0., 2 
 Blue Springs, Fla., 169. 
 Blue Lick Sprmgs, Ky., 234. 
 Bonsask's, Va., 87. 
 Boston, Ga., 154. 
 Branchville, 8. C, 183. 
 Brandenburg, Ky., 241. 
 Brashear, La., 202. 
 Brazos Eiver, 207. 
 Brenham, Tex., 208. 
 Bridgeport, O., 237. 
 Bristol, Va., 87. 
 Bristol, Tenn., 220. 
 Bristol Station, Va., 83. 
 Brownsville, Tex., 210. 
 BurkesviUe, Va., 81. 
 Burlington, 0., 238. 
 Bushwick, Ga., 153. 
 
 Cafro, m., 243. 
 Caledonia, 111., 243. 
 Calera, Miss., 181. 
 Camden, S. O., 131. 
 Camden, Ark., 214. 
 Cannellton, Ind., 241. 
 Canton, Miss., 188. 
 Capon Springs, Va,, 106. 
 Carrollton, Ky., 210. 
 Carthage, Ala., 182. 
 Catlett's, Va., 83. 
 Catlettsburg, Ky., 238. 
 Cave Spring, Ala., 181, 
 Cave City, Ky., 229. 
 Cave in Eock, 111., 242. 
 Cedar Keys, Fb., 167. 
 Chapel Hill, N. C., 113. 
 Charleston, S. C, 121. 
 Charlestown, Md., 49. 
 Charlestown, Va., 63. 
 Charlotte, N. C, 114. 
 Charlotte Harbor, Fla., 174. 
 Charlottesville, Va., 84. 
 Chattahoochee Elver, 147. 
 Chattanooga, Tenn., 228. 
 Cheraw, 8. C, 136. 
 Chesapeake Bay, 2. 
 Chester, Pa., 47. 
 Chester, S. C, 132, 
 Ohickamanga, Tenn,, 220. 
 Chiistiansburg, Va., 87. 
 
 Citronella, Ala., 180. 
 Clarkesville, Ga,, 156. 
 Olarkesville, Tenn., 222. 
 Clarksburg, W, Va,, 23. 
 Olaysvillo, "W. Va„ 28. 
 Cleveland, Tenn,, 221. 
 Cloveport, Ky., 241. 
 Colorado Eiver, 207. 
 Columbia, S. C, 132. 
 Columbia, Tenn,, 222. 
 Columbia, Ark., 248. 
 Columbus, Ga,, 152, 
 Columbus, Miss,, 187, 
 Columbus, Ky,, 223, 247. 
 Company's Shops, N. C, 114. 
 Corsicana, Tex,, 208, 
 Covington, Va,, 80, 
 Covington, Ky,, 228, 
 Coyner's Springs, Va,, 104. 
 Cranberry Summit, W. Va., 21, 
 Crisfield,l)el,,50. 
 Cuba, Ala., 183. 
 
 Culpepper Court-House, Va., 84 
 Cumberland, Md,, 20, 
 Cumberland Gap, Ky„ 280. 
 Cumberland Elver, 216, 225. 
 Cyclopean Towers, Va., 108. 
 Cynthiana, Ky., 230, 
 
 Bahlonega, Ga,, 156. 
 Dallas, Tex., 211. 
 Dalton, Ga.. 150. 
 Dansville, Va., 81. 
 Decatur, Ala., 188. 
 Delhi, La., 203. 
 Delta, La., 202. 
 Deraopolis, Ala., 183. 
 Dixie, Ga., 154. 
 Doctortown_, Ga., 154. 
 Donaldsonville, La., 202, 
 Dover, Del., 50. 
 Drennon Springs, Ky., 234. 
 Dry Tortugas, Fla., l75. 
 Durhams, S. C, 118. 
 
 Eatonton, Ga., 155, 
 Edgefield, Tenn,, 216, 
 Elizabefhtown, Ky,, 280. 
 Elkton, Md,, 48, 
 EllaviUe, Fla,, 166, 
 Ellicott's Mills, Md,, 16. 
 BlysviUe, Md., 16. 
 Elyton, Ala., 182, 
 
 267 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Enterpnse, yia., 170. 
 JSntaw, Ala., 183. 
 Eutaw Springs, B. 0., 133. 
 Kvansviie, lad,, 243. 
 
 Fairfax, Ya., 88. 
 Fairmount, V. Va., 89. 
 Falls of Amicalolah, 6a., 153. 
 Falls of Eustatoia, Ga., IBS. 
 Falmouth, Ky., 280. 
 Farmvillo, Ta., 81. 
 Feroanclina, F)a., 166. 
 Fleming, Ga., 153. 
 ■ FUnt Eiver, Ga., 141. 
 Florence, B. 0., 181. 
 Florence, Ala. ,183. 
 Florida Keys, Fla., 1T4. 
 .?orsyth. Ga., 151. 
 ?ort Hill, B. C.. 138. 
 Fort Motte, S. 0., 133. 
 Fort Pillow, Tenn., 24T. 
 Fort Smitb, Ark., 214. 
 Fort Valley, Ga., 153. 
 Frankfort, Ky., 22T. 
 Franklin, Md., 14. 
 Franklin, Tenn., 222. 
 Frederick City;Md., 16. 
 Frederick Junction, Md., 16. 
 Fredericksburg-, Va., T4. 
 Frencli Broad Biver, H". C.,118. 
 Front Eoyal. Va., 68. 
 Fulton, Tenn., 241. 
 
 Gainesville, Fla., 167. 
 Gallatin, Tonn., 216. 
 Gallipolis, O., 288. 
 Galveston, Tex., 207. 
 Geneva, Ga., 1.53. 
 Georgetown, D. 0., 41. 
 Georgetown, S. C., 188. 
 Gettysburg, Pa., 25. 
 Glade Springs, Ya., 87. 
 Golconda, 111., 242. 
 Goldsboro', N". O., 112. 
 Gordon, Ga., 155. 
 Gordonsville, Va., 84. 
 Goshen, Va., 79. 
 Govanstown, Md., 14. 
 Grafton, W. Va., 33. 
 Grand GuH Miss., 248. 
 Grand Junction, Tenn., 221. 
 Grand Lake, Miss., 248. 
 Graniteville, 8. 0., 133. 
 Grave Creek, "W. Va., 88. 
 Green Cove Spring, Fla., 168. 
 Greensboro', Ga., 148. 
 Greensboro', N. C., 114. 
 Greensboro', Ala., 153. 
 Greennpsburg, Ky., 239.- 
 Greenville, S. O., 187. 
 Greenville, Ala., 179. 
 GreenvUIe, Tenn., 220. 
 Greenville, Miss.. 248. 
 Greenwich, Ark.^ 247. 
 Griffin, Ga., 161. 
 Groesbeok, Tex., 203. 
 Guthrie, Tenn., 218. 
 Guyandutto, "W. Ya., 283. 
 
 Hanging Eock, O., 239. 
 Hanover Court-House, Va., 78. 
 Hanover Junction, Ya., 74. 
 Harper's Ferry, Va., 18. 
 
 Harris, Tenn., 222. 
 Harrisburg, Ya., 64. 
 Harrisburg, Tex., 207. 
 Harrod's Creek, Ky., 226. 
 Harrodsburg Springs, Ky., 284. 
 Havre de Grace, Md., 49. 
 Haweavllle, Ky., 241. 
 Hawkinsville, Ga., 168. 
 Hawk's Nest, Ya., 107. 
 Heame, Tex., 208. 
 Helena, Ark., 214, 247. 
 Hempstead, Tex., 208. 
 Henderson, Ky., 280, 243. 
 Hernando, Miss., 188. 
 Hiawassee Falls, Ga., 153. 
 Hibernia, Fla., 168. 
 Hickman, Ky., 222, 247. 
 Hffl8boro',N.O., 114. 
 Hogarth's Wharf, Fla., 168. 
 Holly Spi-ings, Miss., 188, 
 Holston Springs, Ya., 105. 
 Hot Springs, Va., 99. 
 Houston, Tex., 208. 
 Humboldt, Tenn., 233. 
 Huntsville, Ala, 183. 
 HnntsviUe, Tex., 209." 
 
 Indiinola, Tex.. 311. 
 Indian Elver, Fla., 174. 
 Ironton, 0., 233. 
 
 Jackson, Miss., 188. 
 Jackson, Tenn., 223. 
 Jacksonville, Fla., 165. 
 Jacksonville, Ala., 131. 
 Jefferson, Tex., 211. 
 Jeffersonville, Ky., 236. 
 Jesup, Ga., 154. 
 Johnston, Ga., 154. 
 Jonesboro', Ga., 151. 
 Jonesboro', Ala., 133. 
 Jordan Spring, Va., 62. 
 Junction, Ala., 183. 
 
 "Kearneysville, "W. Va., 19. 
 Kentucky Eiver, 225. 
 Kentucky Sink-Holes, 233. 
 Key West, Fla., 174. 
 Kingston, N. 0., 114. 
 Kingstree, S. 0., 136. 
 Klngsville, 8. C, 181. 
 KnoxviEe, Tenn., 230. 
 
 La Grange, Ga., 156. 
 La Grange, Ky., 227. 
 Lake City, Fla., 165. 
 LakeGeorge, Fla., 169. 
 L'Anguille, Ark., 213. - 
 Lawrenceburg, Ind., 240. 
 Lawton, Ga., 154. 
 Leavenworth, Ind., 241. 
 Lebanon, Ky., 239. 
 Ledbetter, Tex., 303. 
 Leesburg, Va., 65. 
 Lexington, Ky., 237. 
 Liberty, Ya., 86. 
 Licking Eiver, 325. 
 Little Prairie, Mo., 247. 
 Little Eock, Ark., 214. 
 Live Oak, Fla., 164. 
 Livingston, Ala., 188. 
 Livingston, Ky., 239. 
 Longview, Tex., 202. 
 
 Lookout Mountain, Ga., 159, 
 Louisville, Ky., 225. 
 Lovingston, Va., 85. 
 Lumber City, Ga., 153. 
 Lynchburg, Va., 85. 
 
 Macon, Ga., 151. 
 Madison, Ga., 143. 
 Madison, Fla., 166. 
 Madison, Ind., 240. 
 Miidison's Cave, Ya., 103. 
 Madisonville, Ky., 280^ 
 MagnoUa, Fla., 168. 
 Mammoth Cave, Ky., 231. 
 Manassas, Ya., 62. 
 Manchester, O., 239. 
 Mandarin, Fla., 163. 
 Marietta, Ga., 151. 
 Marietta, O., 337. 
 Marion, Va., 67. 
 Marion, Ala , 183. 
 Mariottsville, Md., 16. 
 Marshall, Tex., 203. 
 Martinsbittg, W. Va. , 19. 
 Matagorda, Tex., 311. 
 Mcintosh, Ga., 163. 
 MoKenzie, Tenn., 222. 
 Mellonville, Fla., 169. 
 Memphis, Tenn., 221. 
 Meridian, Miss,, 187. 
 MetropoMs O^, lU., 243. 
 Middletown, Del., 50. 
 Milford, Dei, 50. 
 Milledgeville, Ga., 155. 
 Millen, Ga., 155. 
 Mississippi City, Miss., 190. 
 Mobile, Ala., 177. 
 Monroe, La., 303. 
 Montevallo, Ala., 181. 
 Montgomery, Ala., 179. 
 MontgomerySprings, Va., lOi 
 Monticello,Fla.,166. 
 Morristown, Tenn., 230. 
 Moscow, Tenn., 221. 
 Mound City, 111., 243. 
 MoundsvUle, W. Va, 89. 
 Mount Airy, Md., 16. 
 Mount Currahee, Ga.. 159. 
 Mount Jackson, Ya., 64. 
 Mount Touah, Ga., 158. 
 Mount Vernon, Va., 43. 
 Mount Vernon, Ind., 243. 
 Mulberry Grove, Fla., 163. 
 Mnldon, Miss., 137. 
 Mumfordsville, Ky., 229. 
 Murfreesboro', Tenn., 218. 
 
 Wacoochee Valley, Ga., 153. 
 Napoleon, Ark., 314, 243. 
 Karkeeta, Miss., 187. 
 Nashville, Tenn., 216. 
 Natchez, Miss., 249. 
 Natural Bridge, Va., 100. 
 Natural Bridge, Ala., 184. 
 Natural Bridge, Kv., 283. 
 Navasoto, Tex., 208. 
 New Albany, Ind., 241. 
 Newark, Deb, 48. 
 Newbem, Va., 87. 
 Newbern, N. C, 114. 
 Newbeny, 8. O., 186. 
 Nowbury, W. Va., 22. 
 Newcastle, Deb, 60, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 New Madrid, Mo., 247. 
 Newman, Ga., 156. 
 New Orleans, La., 190. 
 Newport, Ky., 228. 
 New Bichmond, Ky., 239. 
 NicholasviJle. Ky., 230. 
 Nickaiack, Ala., 184. 
 Norfolk, Va., 69. 
 North Bend, O., 239. 
 North Mountain, 'W. Va., 19. 
 Nortonville, Ky., 2.31. 
 Nueces Eiver, Tex., 207. 
 
 Oakland, Md., 21. 
 Oakland, Miss., 188. 
 Ocmulgee Eiver, Ga., 141. 
 Oconee Kiver, Ga., 140.' 
 Ogeechee Kiver, Ga., 141. 
 Ohio Eiver, 235. 
 Old Sweet Springs, Va., 96. 
 Olustee, Fla., 163. 
 Opelika, Ala., 179. 
 Orangeburg, 8. C, 138. 
 Osceola, Ark., 247. 
 Ousley, Ga., 154. 
 Owensborough, Ky., 243. 
 Oxford, Ala., 181. 
 
 Padncah, Ky., 281, M2. 
 Paint Kock, Ala., 133. 
 Palestine, Tex., 209. 
 Paris, Ky., 230. 
 Parkersburg, W. Va.. 23. 
 Pasca^oula, Miss., 190. 
 Patapsco Eiver, 4. 
 Patterson's Creek, W. Va., 20. 
 Pearl Eiver, Miss., 136. 
 Pembroke, Ky., 230. 
 Pendleton, 8. C, 136. 
 Pensacola, Fla., ITS. 
 Petersburg, Va., 69. 
 Petroleum, W. Va., 23. 
 Phelps, Tex., 209. 
 Pickens Court-House, S. C, 136. 
 Picolata, Fla., 168. 
 Piedmont, Md., 21. 
 Pilatka, Fla., 168. 
 Pilot Monntam, N. C, 119. 
 Plantersvllle, Ala., 181. 
 Plaquemine, La., 251. 
 Point of Eocks, Md., 17. 
 Pomt Pleasant, Mo., 247. 
 Point Pleasant, W. Va., 238. 
 Pomeroy, O., 237. 
 Port Hudson, L.-V., 251. 
 Porthmd, Ky., 226, 241. 
 Port Penn, Del., 50. 
 Portsmouth, Va., 69. 
 Portsmouth, O., 289. 
 Potomac Eiver, 4, 28. 
 Pi-inceton, Miss., 248. 
 Pulaski, Tenn., 222. 
 
 Quincy, ria.,166. 
 Quitman, Ga., 154. 
 Quitman, Miss., 187. 
 
 Ealeigh, N. 0. 113. 
 
 Bed Eivor, La.. 250, 
 Eed Sulphur Springs, Va., 97. 
 Eed Sweet Springs, Va.. 96. 
 Eeeflng Creek, W. Va., 20. 
 Eesaca, Ga., loO. 
 Eichmond, Va., 57. 
 Eichmond, Ky., 229. 
 Eio Grande Eiver, Tex., 206. 
 Eipley, O., 239. 
 Eising Siui, Ind., 240. 
 Eockbridge Springs, Va., 100. 
 Eockport, Ky., 281. 
 EodgersvUle, Tenn., 220. 
 Eome, Ga., 181. 
 Home, 0., 239. 
 Eome, Ind., 241. 
 Eosservillo, Ky., 229. 
 
 Salem, Va., 87. 
 Sahsbury, Md., 50. 
 Salisbiuy, N. C, 114. 
 Salt Pond, Va., 107. 
 Salt Eiver, Ky., 226. 
 Salt Spi-ings, Va., 97. 
 San Antonio, Tex., 210. 
 Savannali, Ga., 141. 
 Savannah Eiver, 140. 
 Seaford, Del., 50. 
 Sehna, Ala., 181. 
 Shannondale Springs, Va., 100. 
 Shawneetowu, III., 242. 
 Shelby Springs, Ala., 181. 
 Shelbyville, Ky., 227. 
 Shreveport, La., 202. 
 Silver Creek, Ky., 226. 
 Silver Sprmgs, Fla., 169. 
 Sistervifle, W. Va..237. 
 Smithland, Ky., 242. 
 SmithviUe, Ga,, 152. 
 Smyrna, Del., 50. 
 Social Circle, Ga., 148. 
 Society Hill, S. 0., 186. 
 Spai-tanburg, S. C, 139. 
 Springfield, Tenn., 218. 
 Stanton, Del., 48. 
 Stanton, Va., 79. 
 State Line, Ala., ISO. 
 SterUng, Ark., 247. 
 Steubenville, O., 287, 
 Stevenson, Ala., 183, 283. 
 Stockton, Ga., 154. 
 Strasburg, Va., 64. 
 St. Augustine, Fla., 170. 
 St. John's Era, "W. Va., 20. 
 St. John's Eiver, Fla., 165. 
 St. Josephs, La., 249. 
 St. Mark's, Fla.,166. 
 Summit Point, Va., 53. 
 Sumter, 8. C, 131. 
 Susquehanna Kiver, 4, 
 Suwanee, Fla., 164. 
 
 Talladega, Ala., 181. 
 Tallahassee, Fla., 166. 
 Tallahatchee Elver, Fla., ISO. 
 TaUulah, Ga., 157. 
 Tallulah, La., 203. 
 Tampa Bay, Fla., 174. 
 
 Tarboro', N. C, 112. 
 Tebeauville, Ga., 154. 
 Tennessee Eiver, 177. 
 Thomasvillo, Ga., 154. 
 Toocoa Falls, Ga., 1S6. 
 Tocoi, Fla., 168. 
 Tombigbee Eiver, Al,",., 177. 
 Tompkinsville, La., 24^. 
 Trenton, Ala., 183. 
 Trinity, Tex., 209. 
 Troy, Tenn., 223. 
 Tullahoma, Tenn., 218. 
 Tupelo, Miss., 187. 
 Tuscaloosa, Ala., 182. 
 Tuscumbia, Ala., 183. 
 
 Union City, Tenn., 223. 
 Uniontown, Ala., 182. 
 Uniontown, Ky., 242. 
 
 Valdosta. Ga.,15I. 
 Van Bureu, Ark., 214. 
 Vevay, Ind.. 240. 
 Vicksburg, Miss.. 188. 
 Victoria, Miss., 217. 
 Volusia, Fla., 169. 
 
 ■Waco, Tex., 2C8. 
 Waldo, Fla., 167. 
 Walnut Hills, Miss.. 248. 
 Walthom-ville, Ga., 154. 
 Walton, Ky., 223. 
 Warm Spring.9, Va., 98. 
 Warrenton, Va., 83. 
 Warsaw, Ky., 240. 
 Washington, D. 0., 29. 
 Washington Junction, Md., 1& 
 Ways, Ga., 153. 
 Weldon, N. C, 68, 112. 
 Wellborn, Fb., 165. 
 Wellsburg, W. Va., 237. 
 West Point, Ga., LW, 179. 
 West Point, Ky., 241. 
 Weyer's Cave, Va., 1(12. 
 Wheeling, W. Va., 89. 
 Whistler, Ala., 180. 
 White House, Va., Tl. 
 White Eiver, Ark., 213, 247. 
 White Sulphur Springs, Va., SO, 
 White Sulphur Springs. Ky., 234, 
 Wilaka, Fla., 169. 
 Williamsburg, Va., 77. 
 Wilmington, Del., 47. 
 Wilmington, N. C, 112. 
 Winchester, Va., 62. 
 Winnsboro', S. C, 183. 
 Woodbury, Md., 25. 
 Woodstock, Va., 64. 
 Wyandotte Cave, 241. 
 Wythoville, Va., 87. 
 
 Tazoo Eiver, Miss., 166. 
 Yellow Sulphur Springs, Va, 
 
 105. 
 York, Pa., 25. 
 York, Ala., 182. 
 Yorktown, Va., 73. 
 Yorkville, 8. C, 182. 
 
 269 
 
SOMX] TJSI]^!!!^. JSIITTS. 
 
 Theke are certain things with which every traveller must supply himself before 
 starting on his journey, and certain facts, a, knowledge of which will be useful to 
 him while on his way. For this reason, a little time devoted to an examination of 
 our advertising pages will doubtless be profitably spent. 
 
 The safest and most convenient shape, for instance, into which the traveller can 
 put his money is that of letters of credit, or circular notes, and by turning to the 
 advertisements he will find there the cards of Messrs. Duncan, Sherman & Co., 
 comer of Pine and Nassau Sts., Kew York ; Mokton, Bliss & Co., 3 Broad St. ; 
 Brown Brothers, 59 Wall St., New York. These eminent banking-houses issue 
 " circular notes " and " circular letters of credit," payable in any Southern city, and 
 in fact available anywhere in the world. 
 
 The " New York Belting and Packing Co." represent one of the most curious of 
 American industries. In their ware-rooms may be seen the multitude of uses to 
 which India-rubber is put in modem manufacture. 
 
 None but first-class Hotels arc invited to advertise in the Hand-Book, and the 
 fact that they appear there is a guarantee of their character. 
 
 The Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York, is known everywhere as the finest hotel 
 in the country, and one of the pleasantest to put up at. It is admirably located, 
 has all the modem conveniences and improvements, and from its lofty observatory 
 a fine view of the city and surroundings may be had. 
 
 The Hoffman House is also a fine hotel, in the heart of the city. It la con- 
 ducted on the " European plan," and, in addition to its elegantly-furnished rooms, 
 in suite and singly, has an excellent restaurant, where meals may be obtained at all 
 hours. It offers its guests all the modern conveniences and Improvements. 
 
 The Windsor Hotel is situated in the very heart of the finest and most exclu- 
 sive portion of New York City, and is under the supervision of Mr. Samuel Hawk, 
 so well and widely known as the chief of the St. Nicholas Hotel, and Mr. Gardner 
 Wetherbee, of the Severe House, Boston, which is sufficient guarantee. Every 
 thing is elegant and costly, and nothing left undone which could add to the comfort 
 of its guests. 
 
Wesxminstek Hotel, on the "European plan," Sixteenth Street and Irving 
 Place, New York. — The location of this hotel is one of the most central, yet quiet, 
 in the city, and is in close proximity to all the principal places of amusement. 
 Among its guests are many of the distinguished literary and diplomatic celehrities 
 of the day. 
 
 The MoNosGAHELA House, Pittsburg, Pa.,. is one of the largest and finest hotels 
 in the country. It has just been enlarged and beautified, and travellers will find in 
 it all the conveniences and comforts of modem life. 
 
 The Rawlby Springs. — This'popular and delightful summer resort is situated in 
 the moimtains of the Valley of Virginia, deven miles west of Harrisonburg, Virginia. 
 The position is elevated, the air pure and bracing, the scenery grand and picturesque. 
 The wonderful medicinal virtues of the waters have long been known, and it has 
 been the resort of the invalid for many years. 
 
 The Charleston Hotel is the leading house in Charleston, S. C, and is fully 
 described in the body of the work (see page 127). It has just been newly furnished 
 and embellished throughout, and every thing that could add to the comfort, con- 
 venience, and pleasure of its guests has been provided for. 
 
 The Virginia Hotel, Staunton, Va. — The largest hotel in the Valley, and in 
 every respect first class in its accommodations. 
 
 The various lines of passenger-steamships running between New York and Balti- 
 more, and other Southern ports, afford a pleasant way of reaching Richmond, 
 Charleston, Savannah, Mobile, New Orleans, etc. The following are the best lines 
 now in operation : 
 
 The Clyde Line of Iron Steamships dispatches a steamer to Charleston every 
 alternate Thursday, and connects there with all points South. W. P. Clyde is the 
 General Superintendent ; office, 6 Bowling Green. 
 
 The N. Y. and Wilmington S. S. Co. dispatch a steamer for Wilmington, N. C, 
 every Saturday, from Pier 13, North River. W. P. Clyde & Co., 6 Bowling Green. 
 
 Clyde's Texas Line for Galveston, touching at Key West, sails eveiy Saturday, 
 from Pier 20, East River. Steamers Clyde and Geo. W. Clyde. The above steamers 
 are all new and have all the improved accommodations, state-rooms on deck, etc. 
 
 The New York and Havana Mail Line sails every Tuesday for Havana direct. 
 W. P. Clyde & Co., No. 6 Bowhng Green. 
 
 Passengers for Florida, after reaching Charleston or Savannah, will find steamers 
 for Femandina, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, and all important points in Florida, es- 
 pecially on the St. John's River. In addition to the railroad route to Florida, the 
 traveller will find at Charleston and Savannah several lines of steamers enjoying an 
 excellent reputation' for safety and comfort. A saving is also efiected, as no extra 
 charge is made for mails and state-rooms. Eavenel & Co. are the agents in Charles- 
 ton, and their advertisement will be found elsewhere. 
 
'#11 WiMM 
 
 The Safest, Cheapest, and only Comfortable Eoute 
 
 to Florida. 
 
 THE FIEST-CLASS NEW YORK BUILT STEAMERS 
 
 DICTATOR, CapiVogel, 
 
 CITYPOIITT, . . . . Capt. Fitzgerald, 
 
 HaTing been completely refurnished and refitted, 
 
 CONNECT AT CHARLESTON AND SAVANNAH 
 
 With Bailroad and Steamers for 
 
 Fernandina, Jacksonvillej St. Augustine, Hibernia, Magnolia, 
 Green Cove Springs, and PUatka, 
 
 INOLTJDIlfG 
 
 All Landings on the St John's River, 
 
 Connecting at PILATKA with Steamers for ENTERPRISE, SANFORD, 
 
 and INDIAN RIVER, as also with Steamers for the 
 
 OCKLAWAHA RIVER. 
 
 A first-class table and clean, cornfortahle State-Hooms provided. 
 
 JVo extra charge for Meals and State-Mooms, All 
 
 Railroad Tickets good by this Line. . -' 
 
 For Freight or Passage, apply to 
 
 AGENTS IW NEW YORK, of the various 
 
 Charleston and Savannah Steamship lines ; 
 Or, to RAYENEL & CO., Agents, 
 
 COBHEK OF VaNDEKHORST'S WhAKF AND EaST BaT, 
 
 Charleston, South Carolina, 
 
SOUTH. 
 
 THE SIDE-WHEEL STEAMSHH'S 
 
 Georgia and South Carolina, 
 
 2,000 Tons Burden, 
 
 Sail from Pier 29, N". E., alternate Thuesdays, and, with other 
 first-class Steamers, form 
 
 A tri-weekLy lbne 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 Uew York and Charleston, S. C, 
 
 Connecting with Steamers at CHARLESTON for 
 
 Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Pilatka, 
 
 And other points in Florida. 
 
 THE 
 
 N. Y. & WILMINGTON S. S. CO. 
 
 THE STEAMEKS 
 
 BENEFACTOR AND REGULATOR, 
 
 Oe oTnEB Steamers, will sail jok 
 EVERY SATURDAY, FROM PIER 13, N. R,, AT 4 P. M. 
 
 For Passage, Freight, or other information, apply to 
 
 W. p. CLYDE & 00., 6 Bowling Green, N. T. 
 
 Ilessrs. WAGNEB, HUGEB & CO., and ] 
 W. A. COUKTENAY, Charleston, 
 
 > Agents, 
 
 1, s. p., S 
 
NEWYORKAND HAVANA DIRECT. 
 
 MOMBO CASTLE, 
 
 COLUMBIA, 
 
 WILMINGTON. 
 
 THESE 
 
 FIRST-CLASS STEAMSHIPS 
 
 ■WILL BAIL 
 
 Every Tuesday, at 3 P. M., from Pier 13, North River, 
 
 Foot op Cedar Stsset, for 
 KCA.'V-AJSr.A., IDIIRECT. 
 
 For Freight or Passage, having magnificent aooommodations, apply to 
 
 WILLIAM P. CLYDE & CO., No. 6 Bowling CJreen, 
 
 D. MoKELLEE, Agent in Havana. 
 
 TEXA-S LINE 
 
 Steamships for GALVESTON, Texas, touching at KEY WEST, FLORIDA, 
 
 sail every SAT0EDAT, from Pier 20, E. E. Among those fonuing 
 
 the Begular Line, are Steamers 
 
 1,500 Tons eacb. 
 
 The above Steamers are all new, and have all the improved Passenger Accommo- 
 dations, State-Eooms on Deck, etc. For informaiion, apply to 
 
 W. p. CLYDE, Gen'l Sup't, 
 
 6 BOWLING GEEEN, NEW YOEK. 
 
CHRISTIAN REID'S NOVELS. 
 
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 DoOTOB. 1 vol. 12mo, 312 pages. Cloth. Price, $1.80. 
 
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 GEOGEAPHY, IN 31 MAPS ; exhibitrag clearly the more important 
 Physical Features of the Countries delineated, and noting all the 
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 with an Introduction on the Study of Geography, by the Rev. Geobgb 
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 Kavanagh's Novels. Volumes already published: "Nathalie" 
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 to avoid giving needless offence to any one. 
 
 EECOLLECTIOlN^S OF PAST LIFE. By Sir Henet 
 
 Holland, Bart. 1 vol., 12nio., clolh, 350 pages. Piicc, $2.00. 
 
 " Bat the mere spectacle of such a life is of itself intercsliug. Its length aloDe 
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ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN, 
 
 CO^. OF SIXTEENTH ST. AND IRVING PLACE, 
 
 XTE'wr -yoiiis:. 
 
 CHARLES B. FERRIN, Proprietop. 
 
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 On Boabd the Russia, off QuEENSTOwif, ) 
 Thursday mght, Apnl 30, 1868. ) 
 
 Deak Mr. Ferrin : I send you this brief note in order that you may hear at 
 the earliest opportunity of my prosperous arrival. 
 
 When we parted I thanked you for all your great care of me in your excellent 
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 Be sure that it Shall have my thoroughly well-earned recommendation on this 
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 Believe me, always very faithfully yours, 
 
 CHAELES DICKENS. 
 
 BosTOK, Mass., January 21, 18H. 
 
 Dear Mr. Eeurin : I congratulate you on the completion of your alterations 
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 past. 
 
 Believe me, always truly yours, 
 
 WILKIE COLLINS. 
 
MONO^aAHELA HOUSE, 
 
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 THE SCIENCE OF LAW. 
 
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