CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY GIFT OF C, and M. Cornell University Library D 975.C62 1891 3 1924 027 904 048 OL/NUBRARy-ClRcuuTICW DATE DUE 1 A LI O i \\A%f' JA«U-< fTSyt. GAVt-OKD rmtNTwsmu.i.K. Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924027904048 TUB IMLUKJM'S VIRION ^THE IMOCEITS ABROAD, OB ^HE IE¥ PILGEIMS' PEOGRESS; % ■ BEING SOME ACCOUNT OP THE STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY'S PLEASURE EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND; WITH DESCRIPTIONS OP COUNTRIES. NATIONS, INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES, AS THEY APPEARED TO THE * AUTHOR. WITH TWO HUNDRED AND THIBTY-FODE ILUSTRATIONS. MARK TWAII^, (SAMUEL L. CLEMENS.) tUSO BT SUBSCKIPTION' ONLV, AND NOT FOR BALE IN THE BOOK-8TORK9, SBSIDBNTS OF ANY STATK DBSIRUra A COPY SHOULD ADDRBB8 THE FITBLIIHEBS, AND AN AOBNT WILL CAIX UPON THBM.] I [I//"" HARTFORD, CoNN. "* v):>"""""""s/t'^j,%. AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. \/^ kf^ J) Q^.o^-L ir, ISntxred according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869. '>« AMERICAN PUBLISHING CO., •n the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Counecticuc JILy J\5.ost J^atient Readef^ AND JVIOST ^HAI^I TABLE pi^ITIC, JhIS yOLUME IS y^FFECTIONATELT Inscribed. PEEFAOE. This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it -were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet not- withstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is, to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who travelled in those countries before him. I make small pretence of showing any one how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea — other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need. I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel- writing that may be charged against me — for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not. In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald. THE AUTHOR. Sait Fbanctsco, 1869. 10. 11. 13. 18. 14. 15. 16. IT. 18. 19. 20. 21. PAOB Thb QuAKBE City IN A Stoem. Feontispiboe — Illuminated Title- Page— The Pilgeim's Vision — "I 'll Pay Tou in Pakib" 28 The Staet 30 ^'' Good Morning, Sir" 34 The Old Pieate 36 Dancing Under Diffioultieb 42 The Mook Trial '. 44 "Land, ho!" 49 The Capote 52 EuiN AND Desolation 58 Poet OF Horta, Fayal (Full Page), face page 56 "SEKKI-YAMr' 59 Bbautiful Stranger 64 Rock of Gibraltar (Full Page), face page , 65 'Queen's Chair" ". 67 The Oracle 70 The Interrogation Point 71 Garrison at Malabat 72 Entbetaining an Angel 74 ViB# of a Street in Tangier 77 Change foe a Napoleon 81 The Consul's Family. 88 "PobtLaeiat" 91 FiKST Supper in France 95 Painting , 96 Hinging foe Soap 99 " Wine, Sie I *' 100 The Pilgrim Thh Prisoner Homeless France (Full Page), face page, Railroad Official in France " FrvTC Minutes for KEFrESUMRVTR." America.. 101 108 106 108 109 jLLUSTRATIONa Vll FAQK tL " Thirty Minutbb fob Dznnkb." Fbahob. 110 85. Thb OldTravbllkr Ill 86. A Dbcidkd Bhate . , 116 87. A Gas-tlt Substitute 117 88. The Thebb Guides 119 89. " 2e Siix Ma&azin " 122 40. Return in W ae Paint 124 41. Napoleon III 126 42. Abdul Aziz 126 43. THsMOEciUE 182 44. Wb took a walk 186 45. TheOak-Oan , 186 46. Grates of Abelard and Hhloibe 141 47. A Pair OP Canons op 18th Obntuby.... 142 48. The Peitatb Maeriagb 144 49. Ambrioan Brinks. 148 50. BoTAL Honors to a Yankee. 160 Bl. The Grisbtte 151 52. I'ountain AT Ye^aillbb 154 63. Women op Genoa 161 64. Petrified Lackey 163 55. Priest and Friar. 164 66. Statue of Columbus 168 67. Grates op Sixty Thousand 169 58. Roof and Spires of Cathedral at Milan (Full Page.), pace page 172 69. Centeal Boor of Cathedral at Milan 178 60. Interior op Cathedral at Milan 174 61. Boyhood's Expbrienob. 176 62. Treasures of the Cathedral 179 68. Cathedral at Milan 181 €4. La Soala Theatre 184 «5. Copying from Old Masters 191 66. Facial Expression 194 67. The Echo 196 68. ITotbBook 197 €9. A Kks FOR A Fbano , 198 TO. The Fumigation 200 71. Lake Como 203 72. Garden, Lake Como (Full Paqx), Faoi Page , 204 73. Social Briter 207 74 Wayside Shrine 208 75. Peace AND Happiness 209 76. Castle OF Count Luigi «. 210 77. The WiOKBD Beothee , 216 78. BiSGUSTKD Gondolier 220 79. Cathedral of St. Mark 226 80. The Peg 229 81. " Good-by " '. 280 82. M'bibub Goe-r-dokg 284 88. Monument to the Bogb 286 84. St. Mark. By the Old Masters , 238 85. St. Matthew. By the Old Masters ^88 86. St. Jerome. By the Old Masters 288 87. St. Sebastian. By the Old Masters 239 83. St. Unknown. By the Old Mabtebb 289 viii Jllustrations. PAGB 89. EiALTO Bridbb **1 90. Beidsb OF Sighs **1 91. rLOEBHOE 245- 92. The PuNSioNEB -•• **8 98. "I Want TO GO Home" ^8 94. The Leaning To-wee 250 95. The OowTEAST ^^ 96. Italian Pastimes ^^ 97. InOEKDIAEY DOOITMEHT 264 98. AE0MAK0Fl869 2*' 99. Mameetiwe Prison 276 100. OldEoman 2'* 101. Coliseum op Akoieitt Eoub 281 102. Did not Complain 285 103. Humboldt House 286 104. Dan 288 105. Bbonze Statue 289 106. Penmanship 291 107. OnaBust 298 108. Vaults of the Content 299 109. Deied Convent Fruits 302 110. AttheStoee 308 111. At Home 804 113. Soothing the Pilgrims .- 809 113. AsoENT OP Mt. Vesuvius 318 114 Bay OF Naples 816 115. The Mustang 819 116. Island of Capri 320 117. Blue Grotto 821 118. Vesuvius and Bay of Naples (Full Page), pace page 323 119. The Descent 825 130. Euins, PoMPEn 827 121. FoEUM OF Justice, Pompeh 830 123. House, PoMPEn 886 123. Stromboli 388 124. View of the Acropolis, lookdigWest 841 126. "Hoi" 848 126. The Assault 344 127. The Caryatides 34< 128. The Parthenon (Full Page), face page 848 129. We Sidled, notEah 850 180. Ancient Acropolis 859 181. Tail Piece, Euins 853 182. Queen of Greece , 855 183. Palace at Athens 866 184. Street Scene in Constantinoplb (Full Page) face page 359 135. Goose Eanoher 860 186. Mosque of St. Sophia. 868 187. Turkish Mausoleum. 865 188. Slandered Dogs 871 139. The Censor on Duty 874 140. Turkish Bath 878 141. Far-Away-Moses 882 143. A Fragment 38S 148. Tail-Piboe — AMemento SSft Jllustrations. PAGE [44. Yalta FROM the Emperob'b Falaoe 892 ^4fi. EixPBBOR OF Kttsbia 89$ .46. Tinsel King 899 .4T. Bhip Empebob 404 48. The Becbption 405 K Stkeet SoEHii IN Smybna 411 50. Smyrna. 418 51. An Appabent Sttooess , 416- Drifting to Starboard 419 A Bfoilbd Nap 420 54. Ancient Amphitheatrb at Ephesub 424 55. Modern Amphitheatre at Ephesub 42S 56. EtTiNS OF Ephesfb = 424 5T. The Journey 425 .58. Grates of the Seven Sleepeks 429 ,59. The Selection 4a4 60. Camping Out 436 ,61. Tail Piece— Arabs' Tents 48T !. A Good Feeder. 439 I. Interesting FisTE .- 440- .64. Sunday School Grapes 442 65. An Old Fogy 445 Eaoe WITH A Camel 446: 6T. Temple of THE Sun 447 I. EuiNS of Baalbec 449 '. Hewn Stones in Quaeby 450' 70. Mercy 452 .71. PatronSaint , 453 .72. Water Carkiek. 455 .73. View of Damascus, (Full Page) face page 456- .74. Street Cars of Damascus 460' .75. Full Dressed Tourist. . .' 466- 76. Impromptu Hospital ; 474 7T. The Horse "Baalbeo" 476 .78. Oak of Bashan 479 79. Dangerous Arab 482' 80. Grimes on the War-Path * 483 .81. Tail-Piboe — Bedouin Camp 48T Home of Ancient Pomp 489'- .88. Jack 49fr .84. A Disappointed Audience 491 85. Fig-Tbee 495 86. '■ Fake too High " 497 87. Sybian House 504 88. TlBEBIAS AND SeA OF GaULEE 506: . The Guaed 51ft .90. Mount Tabok 521 :91. Tail-Pieob— GATHEEiMe Fuel 624 Fountain op tbub Virgin 530 " Madonna-like Beauty " 531 94. Putnam Outdone 533: 95. The Bastinado 535 " I Wept " 53t> 97. Want of Dignity 53ft 98. An Oriental Well 544; X Illustrations. PAGB 199. Arabs Balttting 545 "200. Free Sons of the Desert . , 6^ 301. BheohkmI 552 202. Tail Piece — Gate of Jeefs albm ■ 656 "208. Beggars IN Jerubalbsm 559 204. Church op the Holt Sepitlchre 564 205. Gbavkof Adam ■ 566 206. View OF Jerusalem (Full Page), face pag« 574 •207. The Wandering Jew 577 208. Mosque of Omar 581 209. An Epidemic • 58^ 210. Chaeob on Bedouins 590 311. Dead Sea 594 212. Geotto OF THB Nativitt (Full Pagk), FACE page 601 213. Jaffa (Full Page), face page 606 214. Bear Elevation of Jack 610 215. Street in Alexandria 611 216. ViOEEOT OF Egypt c^-; 217. Eastern Monaech 614 218. Moses S. Beach 615 219. Room No. 15 61? 220. The Nilometbe 6L0 221 Ascent op the Pyramids 62i 222 High Hopes Frustrated 625 223 King's Chamber in the Pyramid, (Full Page), face page 626 224. A PowEEFUL Aegumebt 627 225. Pyramids and Sphynx, (Full Page), pace page 629 226. The Rbuo Hunter 63d 227 The Mameluke's Leap 631 "228. Would not be Comforted 633 229. Tail Piece, The Traveler , GM 230 Homeward Bound 635 231. Bad Coffee 639 232 Our Friends the Bermudians 640 233. Captain Doncan 641 234 TiiL Piece, Finis 661 CONTENTS. CHAPTBE L PAoa Popular Talk of the Bxoursiou — Programme of the Trip — Duly Ticketed for the Excursion — ^Defection of the Celebrities 19 CHAPTER II. Grand Preparations — An Imposing Dignitary — The European Exodus — Mr. Blucher's Opinion — Stateroom No. 1 — The Assembling of the Clans — At Sea at last 26 CHAPTER III. "Averaging" the Passengers — "Par, far at Sea" — Tribulation among the Patriarchs — Seeking Amusement under Difficulties — Five Captains in the Ship 32 CHAPTER IV. The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated — Pilgrim Life at Sea — " Horse-Billiards " — The "Synagogue" — The Writing School — Jack's "Journal" — The " Q. C. Club "—The Magic Lantern— State Ball on Deck— Mock Trials- Charades — Pilgrim Solemnity — Slow Musio— The Executive OfiBcer De- livers an Opinion 36 CHAPTER T. Summer in Mid- Atlantic — An Eccentric Moon — Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence — The Mystery of " Ship Time " — The Denizens of the Deep — " Land- Hol" — The First Landing on a Foreign Shore — Sensation among the Natives — Something about the Azores Islands — Blucher's Disastrous Din- ner — The Happy Result 47 CHAPTER TL Solid Information — A Fossil Community — Curious Ways and Customs— Jesuit Humbuggery — Fantastic PUgrimizing — Origin of the Russ Pavement — Squaring Accounts ■with the Fossils — At Sea Again 55 CHAPTER TIL A Tempest at Night — Spain and Africa on Eahibition — Grreeting a Majestic Stranger — The Pillars of Hercules — The Rock of Gibraltar — Tiresome Repetition — " The Queen's Chair " — Serenity Conquered — Curiosities of the Secret Caverns — Personnel of Gibraltar — Some Odd Characters — ^A Private Frolic in Africa — Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of life J — Vanity Rebuked — Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco 62 xii Contents. CHAPTER VIII. PASS The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco— Strange Sights— A Cradle of An- tiquity—We become Wealthy— How they Rob the MaU in Africa— The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco "" CHAPTER IX. A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril — How they Mended the CIocIe — Moorish Punish- ments for Crime — Marriage Customs — Looking Several ways for Sunday — Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims — Reverence for Cats — Bliss of being a Conaul-General 83 CHAPTER X. Fourth of July at Sea— Mediterranean Sunset— The " Oracle " is Delivered of an Opinion — Celebvatiou Ceremonies — The Captain's Speech — France in Sight — The Ignorant Native — In Marseilles — Another Blunder — Lost in the Great City — ^Found Again — A Prenchy Scene : . . . 90 CHAPTER XI. Getting "Used to it " — No Soap — Bill of Pare, Table d'h6te — "An American Sirl" — A Curious Discovery — The "Pilgrim" Bird — Strange Companion- ship — A Grave of the Living — A Long Captivity — Some of Dumas' He- roes — Dungeon of the Famous " Iron Mask." 98 CHAPTER Xn. A Holiday Flight through France — Summer Garb of the Landscape — Abroad on the Great Plains — Peculiarities of French Cars — French Politeness — American Railway Officials — "Twenty Mnutes to Dinner 1" — Why there are no Accidents — The " Old Travellers " — Still on the Wing — Paris at Last — French Order and Quiet — Place of the Bastile — Seeing the Sights — A Barbarous Atrocity — Absurd Billiards 105 CHAPTER Xin. More Trouble — Monsieur Billfinger — Re-Christening the Frenchman — In the Clutches of a Paris Guide — The International Eiposition — Pine Military Review — Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey. . . . 118 CHAPTER Xrv. The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame — Jean Sanspeur's Addition — Treas- ures and Sacred ReUcs — The Legend of the Cross — The Morgue — The Outrageous GarirGam — Blondin Aflame — The Louvre Palace— The Great Park — Showy Pageantry — Preservation of Noted Things 13* CHAPTER XT. French National Burying-Ground — Among the Great Dead — The Shrine of Disappointed Love — The Story of Abelard and Heloise — " English Spoken Here "— " American Drinks Compounded Here " — Imperial Honors to an American — The Over-estimated Grisette — Departure from Paris — A De- liberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women 139 CHAPTER XVI. Versailles — Paradise Regained — A Wonderful Park — Paradise Lost ^Napole- onic Strategy 16a Contents. xiii CHAPTER XTII. PAGB War — The American Forces Victorious^" Home Again " — Italy in Sight — The " City of Palaces " — Beauty of the Genoese Women — The " Stub- Hunters " — Among tlie Palaces — Gifted Guide — Church Magnificence — " Women not Admitted " — How the Genoese Live — Massive Architecture —A Scrap of Ancient History— Graves for 60,000 159 CHAPTER XVIir. Flying Through Italy — Marengo — First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral — Description of some of its Wonders — A Horror Carved in Stone — An Unpleasant Adventure — A Good Man — A Sermon from the Tomh — Tons of Gold and Silver — Some More Holy Relics — Solomon's Temple Rivalled Ill CHAPTER XIX. " Do Tou Wis zo Haut can be ? " — La Scala — Petrarch and Laura — Lucrezia Borgia — Ingenious Frescoes — Ancient Roman Amphitheatre — A Clever Delusion — Distressing BiUiards — The Chief Charm of European Life — An Italian Bath — Wanted : Soap — Crippled French — Mutilated English — The Most Celebrated Painting in the World — Amateur Raptures — Uninspired Critics — Anecdote — A Wonderful Echo — A Kiss for a Franc 183 CHAPTER XX. • Rural Italy by Rail — Fumigated, According to Law — The Sorrowing English- man — Night by the Lalce of Como — The Famous Lake — Its Scenery — Como compared with Tahoe — Meeting a Shipmate 199 CHAPTER XXI. The Pretty Lago di Lecco — A Carriage Drive in the Country — Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman — A Sleepy Land — Bloody .tShrines — The Heart and Home of Priestcraft — A Thrilling Medieval Romance — ^The Birthplace of Harlequin — Approaching Venice 201 CHAPTER XXII. Night in Venice-^The " Gay Gondoher " — The Grand Pete by Moonlight — The Notable Sights of Venice — The Mother of. the Republics Desolate 217 CHAPTER XXIII. The Famous Gondola — The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect — The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion — Snobs, at Home and Abroad — Sepulchres of the Great Dead — A Tilt at the " Old Masters " — A Contra- band Guide — The Conspiracy — Moving Again 228 CHAPTER XXIV. Down Through Italy by Rail — Idling in Florence — Dante and Galileo — ^An Ungrateful City — Dazzling Generosity — Wonderful Mosaics — The Histori- cal Arno — Lost Again — Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Beady — The Leaning Tower of Pisa — The Ancient Duomo — The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung — -An Enchanting Echo — A New Holy Sepulchre — A Relic of Antiquity — A Fallen Republic — At Leghorn — At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship — Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion — Gren. Garibaldi Visited — Threats of Quarantine 244 xiv Contents. CHAPTER XST. PAQK The 'Works of Bankruptcy— Eailway Grandeur — How to Fill an Empty Treasury — The Sumptuousness of Mother Church — ^Ecclesiastical Splen- dor — Magnificence and Misery — General Execration — More Magnificence — A Good Word for the Priests^Civita Tecchia the Dismal— Off for Rome 255 CHAPTER X2VI. The Modern Roman on His Travels— The Grandeur of St. Peter's— Holy Relics — Grand View from the Dome — The Holy Inquisition — ^Interesting Old Monkish Frauds— The Ruined Coliseum — The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime — Ancient Play-biU of a Coliseum Performance — A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Tears Old 266 CHAPTER XXTII. " Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday " — The Man who Never Complained — An Exasperating Subject — Asinine Guides — The Roman Catacombs — The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs — The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart— The Legend of Ara Coeli 284 CHAPTER XXVIII. Picturesque Horrors — The Legend of Brother Thomas — Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed — A Festive Company of the Dead — The Great Vatican Museum — Artist Sins of Omission — The Rape of the Sabines — Papal Protection of Art — High Price of " Old Masters " — Improved Scripture — Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome — Scale of Honors Accorded Them — Fos- silizing — Away for Naples 298 CHAPTER XXIX. Naples — In Quarantine at Last — Annunciation — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius — A Two-Cent Community — ^The Black Side of Neapolitan Character — Monkish Miracles — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued — ^The Stranger and the Hackman — Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued 308 CHAPTER XXX. Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Beautiful View at Dawn — Less Beautiful View in the Back Streets — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Dwellings a Hundred Feet High — A Motley Procession — Bill of Fare for a Pedler's Breakfast — Princely Salaries — Ascent of Vesuvius ContinuedT— An Aver- age of Prices— The Wonderful "Blue Grotto" — Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples — The Poisoned " Grotto of the Dog" — ^A Petrified Sea of Lava — The Ascent Continued — The Summit Rea5ied — Description of the Crater — Descent of Vesuvius 318 CHAPTER XXXL The Buried City of Pompeii — How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccu- pied for Eighteen Hundred Years — The Judgment Seat — Desolation — The Footprints of the Departed — " No Women Admitted "' — Theatres, Bake- shops, Schools, etc. — Skeletons Preserved by the Ashes and Cinders — The Brave Martyr to Duty — Rip Van Winkle — The Perishable Nature of Fame 32J Contents. ^y CHAPTER XXXII. PAGE At Sea Once More— The Pilgrims all "Well — Superb Stromboli — Sicily by Moonlight — Scylla and Charybdis — The " Oracle " at Fault — Skirting the Isles of Greece — Ancient Athens — ^Blockaded by Quarantine and Rel'used Permission to Enter — Running the Blockade — A Bloodless Midnight Ad- venture — Turning Robbers from Necessity — Attempt to Carry the Acrop- olis by Storm — We Pail — Among the Glories of the Past — A World of Ruined Sculpture — A Pairy Vision — ^Famous Localities — Retreating in Good Order — Captured by the Guards — Travelling in Military State — ^Safe on Board Again 33'! CHAPTER XXXni. Modem Greece — ^Fallen Greatness — Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles — Footprints of History — The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account — Anchored Before Constantinople — Fantastic Fashions — The Ingenious Goose-Rancher — ^Marvellous Cripples — The Great Mosque — The Thousand and One Columns — The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul 354 CHAPTER XXXtV. Scaioity of Morals and Whiskey — Slave-Girl Market Report — Commercial Morality at a Discount — The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople — Ques- tionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey — Ingenious Italian Journalism — No More Turkish Lunches Desired — The Turkish Bath Fraud — The Narghileh Fraud — Jackplaned by a Native — The Turkish Coffee Fi— d 368 CHAPTER XXXT. Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea — " Par-Away Moses " — Melancholy Sebastopol — Hospitably Received in Russia — Pleasant Eng- lish People — ^Desperate Fighting — Relic Hunting — How Travellers Form " Cabinets " 381 CHAPTER XXXTI. Nine Thousand Miles East^-Imitation American Town in Russia — Gratitude that Came Too Late — To Yisit the Autocrat of All the Russias 38T CHAPTER XXXTIL Snwmer Home of Royalty — Practising for the Dread Ordeal — Committee on Imperial Address — Reception by the Emperor and Family — Dresses of the Imperial Party — Concentrated Power — Counting the Spoons — At the Grand Duke's— A Charming Villa — A Knightly Figure — The Grand Duchess — A Grand Ducal Breakfast — Baker's Boy, the Famine-Breeder — Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud — Saved as by Fire — The Governor-Gen- eral's Visit to the Ship — OfBcial "Style " — Aristocratic Visitors — "Mun- chausenizing " with Them — Closing Ceremonies 390 CHAPTER XXXVHL Return to Constantinople — We Sail for Asia — The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors — Ancient Smyrna — The " Oriental Splendor " Fraud — The " Biblical Crown of Life " — Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans — Sociable Armenian Girls — A Sweet Reminiscence — "The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha I " 403 xvi Contents. CHAPTER XXXIX. PAOB Smyrna's Lions— The Martyr Polyoarp— The " Seven Churches "—Remains of the Six Smyraas— Mysterious Oyster Mine— Oysters Seeking Scen- ery—A Maierite Tradition — A Railroad Out of its Sphere 412 CHAPTER XL. Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus — Ancient Ayassalook — The Tillanous Donkey — A Fantastic Procession — ^Bygone Magnificence — Fragments of History — The Legend of the Seven Sleepers 418 CHAPTER XLI. Vandalism Prohibited — Angry Pilgrims — Approaching Holy Land! — ^The " Shrill Note of Preparation — Distress About Dragomans and Transporta- tion — The "Long Route" Adopted — In Syria — Something about Beirout -A Choice Specimen of a Greek " Ferguson " — Outfits — Hideous Horse- flesh—Pilgrim " Style "—What of Aladdin's Lamp ? 430 CHAPTER XLII. "Jacksonville," in the Mountains of Lebanon — Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama — The Vanished City — The PecuKar Steed, " Jericho " — The Pilgrim's Progress — Bible Scenes — Mount Hermon, Joshua's Battle- Fields, etc. — The Tomb of Noah — A Most Unfortunate People 438 CHAPTER XLIII. Patriarchal Customs — Magnificent Baalbec — Description of the Ruins — Scrib- bling Smiths and Joneses — Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Ijaw — ^The Revered Fountain of Baalam's Ass 445 CHAPTER XLIV. Extracts from Note-Book — Mahomet's Paradise and the Bible's — Beautiful Da- mascus, the Oldest City on Earth — Oriental Scenes within the Curious Old City — Damascus Street Car — The Story of St. Paul—The '• Street called Straight " — Mahomet's Tomb and St. G«orge's — The Christian Massacre — Mohammedan Dread of Pollution — The House of Naaman — The Horrors of Leprosy 464 CHAPTER XLV. The Cholera by way of Variety — Hot — Another Outlandish Procession — ^Pen- and-ink I'hotograph of " Jonesborough," Syria — Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter — The StateUest Ruin of All — Stepping over the Borders of Holy Land — Bathing in the Sources of Jordan — More " Specimen "- Hunting — Ruins of Cesarea-Philippi — " On This Rock WUl I Build my Church '" — The People the Disciples Knew — The Noble Steed " Baalbec " — Sentimental Horse Idolatry of tlie Arabs 465 CHAPTER XLVI. Dan — Bashan — Genessaret — A Notable Panorama — Smallness of Palestine Scraps of History— Character of the Country — ^Bedouin Shepherds Glimpses of the Hoary Past— Mr. Grimes's Bedouins— A Battle-Ground of Joshua— That Soldier's Manner of Fighting— Barak's Battle— The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things — Desolation 47i( Contents. xyii CHAPTER XXYII. PAQB Jack's Adventure — Joseph's Pit — The Story of Joseph — Joseph's Magnanim- ity and Esau's — The Sacred Lake of Geneasaret — Enthusiasm of the Pil- grims — Why We did not Sail on Galilee — About Capernaum — Concerning the Saviour's Brothers and Sisters — Journeying toward Magdala 488 CHAPTER XLTIIL Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture — Public Reception of the Pilgrims — ^Mary Magdalen's House — Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants — ^The Sa- cred Sea of Galilee — Galilee by Night 503 CHAPTER XLIX. The Andent Baths — ^Te Apparition — A Distinguished Panorama — The Last Battle of the Crusades — The Story of the Lord of Kerak — ^Mount Taljor — What one Sees from its Top — A Memory of a Wonderful Garden — The House of Deborah the Prophetess 514 CHAPTER L. Toward Nazareth — Bitten By a Camel — Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth — Noted Grottoes in General — Joseph's Workshop — A Sacred Bowlder — The Fountain of the Yirgin— ^Questionable Female Beauty — Literary Cu- riosities 526 CHAPTER LI. The Boyhood of the Saviour — Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims — Home of the Witch of Endor — Nain — Profanation — A Popular Oriental Picture — Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible — The Shunem Miracle — The "Free Son of The Desert" — Ancient Jezreel— Jehu's Achievements — Samaria and its Famous Siege 537 CHAPTER Ln. A Curious Remnant of the Past — Sheehem — The Oldest " First Family " on Earth — The Oldest Manuscript Bxtant-^The Genuine Tomb of Joseph — Jacob's Well — Shiloh — Camping with the Arabs — Jacob's Ladder — More Desolation — Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, the Fountain of Beira — Impatience — Approaching Jerusalem — The Holy City in Sight — Noting its Prominent Features — Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls 561 CHAPTER LIIL *? The Joy of the Whole Earth " — Description of Jerusalem — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Stone of ITnotion — The Grave of Jesus — Graves of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea — Places of the Apparition — The Finding of the Three Crosses — The Legend — Monkish Impostures — The Pillar of Flagellation— The Place of a Relic— Godfrey's Sword—" The Bonds of Christ " — " The Center of the Earth " — Place whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made — Grave of Adam — The Martyred Soldier — The Copper Plate that was On the Cross — The Good St. Helena — Place of the Division of the Garments — St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief — The Late Emperor Maximilian's Contribution — Grotto wherein the Crosses were Pound, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns — Chapel of the Mocking — Tomb of Melchizedek — Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders — The Place of the Crucifixion ^ 568 xviii Contents. CHAPTER LIT. lAam The "Sorrowful Way "—The Legend of St. Yeronica's Handkerchief— An H- luBtrious Stone — House of the Wandering Jew — The Tradition of the Wanderer — Solomon's Temple — Mosque of Omar — Moslem Traditions — " Women not Admitted "—The Fate of a Gossip— Turldsh Sacred Relics —Judgment Seat of David and Saul — Genuine Precious Remains of Sofomon's Temple— Surfeited with Sights— The Pool of Siloam— The Gar- den of Gethsemane and Other Saored'Localities 61 CHAPTER LV. Rebellion in the Camp — Charms of Nomadio Life — Dismal Rumors — En Route for Jericho and.The Dead Sea — Pilgrim Strategy — Bethany and the Dwell- ing of Lazarus — " Bedouins I " — Ancient Jericho — Misery — The Night March — The Dead Sea-^An Idea of What a "Wilderness " In Palestine is — The Holy Hermits of Mars Saba — Good St. Saba — Women not Admit- ted — Buried from the World for all Time — Unselfish Catholic Benevolence — Gazelles — The Plain of the Shepherds — Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Its Hundred Holy Places — The Fa- mous " Milk " Grotto — Tradition — ^Return to Jerusalem — Exhausted 686 CHAPTER LVI. Departure from Jerusalem — Samson — The Plain of Sharon — Ajrival at Joppa — House of Simon the Tanner — The Long Pilgrimage Ended — Character of Palestine Scenery — The Curse 604 CHAPTER LTIL The Happiness of being at Sea once more — " Home " as it is in a, Pleasure- Ship^" Shaking Hands" with the Tessel — Jack in Costume — His Fa- ther's Parting Advice — Approaching Egypt — Ashore in AJezandria — A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys — ^Invasion of the Lost Tribes of America — End of the Celebrated "Jaffa Colony" — Scenes in Grand Cai- ro — Shepheard's Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel — Pre- paring for the Pyramids 609 CHAPTER LVIIL "Recherche " Donkeys — A Wild Ride — Specimens of Egyptian Modesty — Mo- ses in the Bulrushes — Place where the Holy Family Sojourned — Distant view of the Pyramids — A Nearer View — The Ascent — Superb View from the top of the Pyramid — "Backsheesh! Backsheesh! " — An Arab Exploit — ^In the Bowels of the Pyramid — Strategy — Reminiscence of "Holiday's Hill" — Boyish Exploit — The Majestic Sphynx — Things the Author will not Tell — Grand Old Egypt 61* CHAPTER LIX. Going Home — A Demoralized Note-Book — A Boy's Diary — Mere Mention of Old Spain — Departure from Cadiz — A Deserved Rebuke — The Beautiful Madeiras — Tabooed — In the Delightful Bermudas — An Enghsh Welcome — Good-by to "Our Friends the Bermudians " — Packing Trunks for Home — Our First Accident — The Long Cruise Drawing to a Close — ^At Home Amen 63< CHAPTER LX. ThaoklesB Devotion — A Newspaper Taledlctory — Oonolugion. ^8 OHAPTEE I. FOE montlis the great Pleasure Excursion to Europe and the Holy Land was chatted about in the newspapers every where in America, and discussed at countless firesides. It was a novelty in the way of Excursions — its like had not been thought of before, and it compelled that interest which attractive novelties always command. It was to be a picnic on a gigantic scale. The participants in it, instead of freight- ing an ungainly steam ferry-boat with youth and beauty and pies and doughnuts, and paddling up some obscure creek to disembark upon a grassy lawn and wear themselves out with a long summer day's laborious frolicking under the impression that it was fun, were to sail away in a great steamship with flags flying and cannon pealing, and take a royal holiday beyond the broad ocean, in many a strange clime and in many a land renowned in history! They were to sail for months over the breezy Atlantic and the sunny Mediterranean ; they were to scamper about the decks by day, filling the ship with shouts and laughter — or read novels and poetry in the shade of the smoke-stacks, or watch for the jelly-fish and the nau- tilus, over the side, and the shark, the whale, and other strange monsters of the deep ; and at night they were to dance in the open air, on the upper deck, in the midst of a baU-room that stretched from horizon to horizon, and was domed by the bend- ing heavens and lighted by no meaner lamps than the stars and the magnificent moon — dance, and promenade, and smoke, and sing, and make love, and search the skies for con- stellations that never associate with the " Big Dipper " they 20 A SEDUCTIVE PKOGBAMME. •were so tired of: and tliey were to see the ships of twenty navies — ^tlie cusT-oms and costumes of twenty curious peoples — the great cities of half a world — tljey were to hob-nob with nobility and hold friendly converse with kings and princes, Grand Moguls, and the anointed lords of mighty empires ! It was a brave conception ; it was the offspring of a most ingenious brain. It was well advertised, but it hardly needed it : the bold originality, the extraordinary character, the seduc- tive nature, and the vastness of the enterprise provoked com- ment every where and advertised it in every household in the land. Who could read the programme of the excursion with- out longing to make one of the party ? I will insert it here. It is almost as good as a map. As a text for this book, noth- ing could be better : BXCUBSION TO THE HOLT LAND, EGYPT, THE CRIMEA, GEEECB, AND INTERMEDIATE POINTS OF INTEREST. Beookltn, February 1st, 186J. The undersigned will make an excursion as above during the coining season, and begs to submit to you the following programme : A first-class steamer, to be under his own command, and capable of accommo- dating at least one hundt'ed and fifty cabin passengers, will be selected, in which will be taken a select company, numbering not more than three-fourths of the ship's capacity. There is good reason to believe that this company can be easily made up in this immediate vicinity, of mutual friends and acquaintances. The steamer will be provided with every necessary comfort, including library and musical instruments. An experibflced physician will be on board. Leaving New York about June 1st, a middle and pleasant route will be takea across the Atlantic, and passing through the group of Azores, St. Michael will be reached in about ten days. A day or two will be spent here, enjoying the fruit and wild scenery of these islands, and the voyage continued, and Gibraltar reached in three or four days. A day or two will be spent here in looking over the wonderful subterraneoui fortifications, permission to visit these galleries being readily obtained. From Gibraltar, running along the coasts of Spain and France, Marseilles will be raached in three days. Here ample time will be given not only to look over the city, which was founded six hundred years before the Christian era, and its artificial por^ the finest of the kind in the Mediterranean, but to visit Paris during the Great Bk- I'ibition: andthe beautiful city of Lyons, lying intermediate, from the heights of A SEDUCTIVE PROGKAMME. 21 i?hich, on a clear day, Mont Blanc and the Alps can be distinctly seen. Passen- ■ gers who may wish to extend the time at Paris can do so, and, passing down through Switzerland, rejoin the steamer at Genoa. Prom Marseilles to Genoa is a run of one night. The excursionists will have an opportunity to look over this, the " magnificent city of palaces," and visit the birth- place of Columbus, twelve miles off, over a beautiful road built by Napoleon I. From this point, excursions may be made to Milan, Lakes Como and Maggiore, or to Milan, Verona, (famous for its extraordinary fortifications,) Padua, and Venice. Or, if passengers desire to visit Parma (famous for Correggio's frescoes,) and Bo- logna, they can by rail go on to Florence, and rejoin the steamer at Leghorn, thus spending about three weeks amid the cities most famous for art in Italy. Prom Genoa the run to Leghorn will be made along the coast in one night, and time appropriated to this point in which to visit Florence, its palaces and galleries; Pisa, its Cathedral and "Leaning Tower," and Lucca and its baths, and Roman amphitheatre ; Florence, the most remote, being distant by rail about sixty miles. From Leghorn to Naples, (calling at Civita Veechia to land any who may prefer to go to Rome from that point,) the distance will be made in about thirty-six hours ; the route will lay along the coast of Italy, close by Caprera, Elba, and Corsica. Arrangements have been made to take on board at leghorn a pilot for Caprera, and, if practicable, a call will be made there to visit the home of Garibaldi. Rome, [by rail] Herculaneum, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Virgil's tomb, and possibly, the ruins of Paestum, can be visited, as well as the beautiful surroundings of Naples and its charming bay. The next point of interest will be Palermo, the most beautiful city of Sicily, which will be reached in one night from Naples. A day wiU be spent here, and leaving in the evening, the course will be taken towards Athens. Skirting along the north coast of Sicily, passing through the group of -iEolian Isles, in sight of Stromboli and Vulcania, both active volcanoes, through the Straits of Messina, with "Scylla" on the one hand and "Charybdis" on the other, along the east coast of Sicily, and in sight of Mount .^tna, along the south coast of Italy, the west and south coast of Greece, in sight of ancient Crete, up Athens Gulf, and into the Pirsus, Athens will be reached in two and a half or three days. After tarrying here awhile, the Bay of Salamis will be crossed, and a day given to Cor- inth, whence the voyage will be continued to Constantinople, passing on the way through the Grecian Archipelago, the Dardanelles, the Sea of Marmora, and the mouth of the Golden Horn, and arriving in about forty-eight hours from Athens'. After leaving Constantinople, the way will be taken out through the beautiftil Bosphorus, across the Black Sea to Sebastopol and Balaklava, a run of about twenty-four hours. Here it is proposed to remain two days, visiting the harbors, fortifications, and battle-fields of the Crimea ; thence back through the Bosphorus, touching at Constantinople to take in any who may have preferred to remain there; down through the Sea of Marmora and the Dardanelles, along the coasts of ancient Troy and Lydia in Asia, to Smyrna, which will be reached in two or two and a half days from Constantinople. A sufficient stay will be made here to give opportunity •f visiting Ephesus, fifty miles distant by rail. From Smyrna towards the Holy Land the course will lay through the Grecian 22 A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. » Archipelago, close by the Isle of Patmos, along the coast of Asia, ancient Pam- phylia, and the Isle of Cyprus. Beiroiit will be reached in three dayi At Beirout time will be given to visit Damascus ; after which the steamer will proceed to Joppa. From Joppa, Jerusalem, the River Jordan, the Sea of Tiberias, Nazareth, Beth- any, Bethlehem, and other points of interest in the Holy Land can be visited, and here those who may have preferred to make the journey from Bierout through the eountry, passing through Damascus, Galilee, Capernaum, Samaria, and by the River Jordan and Sea of Tiberias, can rejoin the steamer. Leaving Joppa, the next point of interest to visit will be Alexandria, which will be reached in twenty-four hours. The ruins of Caesar's Palace, Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Catacombs, and ruins of ancient Alexandria, will be found worth the visit. The journey to Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles by rail, can be made m a few hours, and from which can be visited the site of ancient Memphis^ Joseph's Granaries, and the Pyramids. Prom Alexandria the route will be taken homeward, calling at Malta, Cagliari (in Sardinia,) and Parma (in Majorca,) all magnificent harbors, with charming scenery, and abounding in fruits. A day or two will be spent at each place, and leaving Parma in the evening, Talencia in Spain will be reached the next morning. A few days will be spent in this, the finest city of Spain. Prom Valencia, the homeward course will be continued, skirting along the coast of Spain. Alicant, Carthagena, Palos, and Malaga, will be passed but a mile or two distant, and Gibraltar reached in about twenty-four hours. A stay of one day will be made here, and the voyage continued to Madeira, which will be reached in about three days. Captain Marryatt writes : " I do not know a spot on the globe which so much astonishes and delights upon first arrival as Madeira.'' A stay of one or two days will be made here, which, it time per- mits, may be extended, and passing on through the islands, and probably in sight of the Peak of Tenerifie, a southern track wi 1 be taken, and the Atlantic crossed within the latitudes of the Northeast trade winds, where mild and pleasant weather, and a smooth sea, can always be expected. A call will be made at Bermuda, which lies directly in this route homeward, and wiU be reached in about ten days from Madeira, and after spending a short time with our friends the Bermudians, the final departure will be made for home, which will be reached in about three days*. Already, applications have been received from parties in Europe wishing to join the Excursion there. The ship will at all times be a home, where the excursionists, if sick, will be sur- rounded by kind friends, and have all possible comfort and sympathy. Should contagious sickness exist in any of the ports named in the programme^ such ports will be passed, and others of interest substituted. The price of passage is fixed at $1,250, currency, for each adult passenger. Choice of rooms and of seats at tlietables apportioaed in the order in which pas- sages are engaged, and no passage considered engaged until ten per cent of the I money is deposited with the treasurer. A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. 23 Passengers carj remain on board of the steamer, at all ports, if they desire, with- out additional expense, and all boating at the expense of the ship. All passages must be paid for when taicen, in order that the most perfect arrangements be made for starting at the appointed time. Applications for passage must be approved by the committee before tickets are issued, and can be made to the undersigned. Articles of interest or curiosity, procured by the passengers during the voyage, may be brought home in the steamer free of charge. Five dollars per day. In gold, it is behoved, will be a fair calculation to make for