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Cornell University Library 
 DF 275.B87 
 
 Hand book to the antiquities of Athens, 
 
 3 1924 028 304 792 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028304792 
 
^■■i'^4 
 
HAND BOOK 
 
 T O 
 
 THE ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS 
 
 M^s VERNON DELVES -BROUGHTON 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY 
 
 ^. Q. S^RBUTHNOT & ^1,0013 ^^ IC0L5 
 
 j». T H E ]sr S 
 
 S. C VLA-STOS 
 
 LONDON 
 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & CO LIMITED 
 
 MDCCCXCVI 
 Alt I ' It I ^ reserved 
 
 ^ 
 
I\.<^%'^ so 
 
 cC\ 
 
DEDICATED 
 
 BY PERMISSION 
 
 T O 
 
 HER ROYAL HIGHNESS 
 
 THE 
 
 CROWA PRI\CESS OF GREECE 
 
 DUCHESS OF SPARTA 
 
TO MY READERS 
 
 It may seem presumptuous and unnecessary 
 to add another to the many already existing 
 publications that treat of the interesting relics of 
 past ages, but I have no desire to compete with 
 those larger and more comprehensive works. My 
 design has rather been to put before my read- 
 ers a brief description, from an artistic point of 
 view, of those among the Antiquities of Athens 
 of which some remains are still extant. 
 
 Although, wherever I have touched upon Ar- 
 chaeological topics, I have quoted from undoubted 
 authorities, I have endeavoured as much as pos- 
 sible to avoid all technical dissertations, and to 
 confine myself to a plain and simple account of 
 those glorious ancient relics, in the hope that 
 this little Hand-Book may be found useful to 
 visitors who can spend but a short time in the 
 place, by directing their attention to those works 
 of Art which are most worthy of notice. 
 
 The letterpress having been printed by an 
 Athenian Arm ; the illustrations lithographed 
 in Athens ; the volumes being also bound in the 
 place; and even the paper manufactured in 
 Greece ; it is hoped that any short comings in 
 
the production of the work may be overlooked 
 or, at any rate, pardoned. It is possible that a 
 few errors may have escaped notice, but I beg 
 you to remember that I have not had the benefit 
 of the supervision of a printer's reader, and 
 moreover that the type has been set up letter 
 by letter, neither the head of the printing esta- 
 blishment or any of his staff having the slightest 
 knowledge of the English language. 
 
 With this apology, I send forth my little book 
 to the world, trusting to the leniency and kind 
 criticism of my readers. 
 
 5^. 3^SLVE0 ^ROUGHTON 
 
 Athens, Fehruary, ISUO. 
 
LIST OF ILLl'STRATIOXS 
 
 I. General view of the Acropolis, from 
 
 the Pnyx To face rule page 
 
 II. The Propylsea, from the Bcule Gate., ro face Page 3 
 
 III. The Temple of Nike > » 5 
 
 IV. The Propylrea, from the east » » 7 
 
 V. The Parthenon. West End » » 9 
 
 VI. The Parthenon. East End » » 15 
 
 Vll. The Caryatides Portico of the Erech- 
 
 theion » ,> 21 
 
 VIII. The North Porch of the Erechtheion. » » 25 
 
 IX. The Sandal Nike, from the Temple 
 
 of Nike » » 27 
 
 X. The Three Gods, from the Frieze of 
 
 the Parthenon » » 29 
 
 XI. The Head of Iris » » 31 
 
 XII. The Mourning Athena » » 33 
 
 XIII. Painted Statue of a -woman » » 35 
 
 XIV. Monument to Philopappos .. » 41 
 
 XV. The Odeion of Herodes Atticus » » 43 
 
 XVI. The Theatre of Dionysos » » 45 
 
 XVII. Frieze of the Theatre » » 47 
 
 XVIII. The Choragic Monument of Lysi- 
 
 crates » » 51 
 
 XIX. The Arch of Hadrian » » 55 
 
 XX. The Temple of Zeus » » 57 
 
 XXI. The Theseion » » G5 
 
 XXII. Entrance Gate to the Roman Agora.. » » 71 
 
 XXIII. The Roman Agora, or Oil Market.. .. » » '73 
 
 XXIV. The Tower of the Winds » » 75 
 
 XXV. Tlie Gymnasium of Hadrian » » 77 
 
XXVI. Tomb of Dexileos, in the Kerameikos. lu (nee ;■«';<■ "9 
 
 XXVIl. Tomb of Hegeso >> » » -1 
 
 Tomb of Girl, unknown. . 
 ^^VIII. Tomb of Dionysius .... I " " ^ '' ' 
 
 XXIX. Urn in the Kerameikos » » ?>:, 
 
 ...^.. Relief from Orchomenos I in the Nation- 
 Stele of Aristion i al Museum. 
 
 XXXI. The Goddess Athena » ,» > sp 
 
 XXXIl. Votive Relief from Eleusis » » » 01 
 
 XXXIII. Head of Melpomene » » » 9;; 
 
 XXX1\'. Esculapius on his Throne » » » 9ri 
 
 XXXV. The Hermes of Andres .. » » » 9"; 
 
 XXXVI. Statue of a Warrior » » » 99 
 
 XXXVII. Stele, with Urn in low 
 
 relief » » » \(\\ 
 
 XXXVIII. Tomb with man, woman, 
 
 and child No. 118... » » » lO:^ 
 
 XXXIX. Relief on Tomb. Woman 
 
 seated.. .. No. 890... » » » I05 
 
 XL. Group of small Vases, A Lecythus; a 
 Vase in the Corinthian style; and 
 one in the style of Nicosthenes. » . lul 
 XLI. Group of Tanagra Figurines » » 109 
 
ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS 
 
 THE ACROPOLIS 
 
 The Acropolis with the I*artlieiioii of 
 
 past glory, and glorious even in its decay, is 
 naturally the crowning point of interest among 
 the Antiquities of Athens, and to this^ therefore, 
 we will primarily direct our attention. 
 
 The rock which forms this natural stronghold, 
 rises to a height of fully 500 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and is quite inaccessible on three 
 sides ; but on the western slope carriages can 
 now mount by a good, but rather winding road, 
 to make the ascent more gradual, as far as the 
 entrance to the precincts of the Acropolis, cal- 
 led the « Oeule G^ate » , on account of its 
 having been discovered by a gentleman of that 
 name during the excavations undertaken by the 
 French in 1852. 
 
 In olden days, the approach is suppose'i^d to 
 have been by a straight road starting from the 
 « Pnyx)) a hill almost immediately opposite — 
 from which the Chariots, descending at a gallop, 
 
— 2 - 
 
 gtxined sufficient impetus to mount the hij^her 
 hill of the Acropolis. This story sounds almost 
 incredible, but that Chariots did get up b}' some 
 raeans^ there is little doubt. 
 
 An irregular flight of steps, partly of the Ro- 
 man period and partly the work of later times, 
 commencing immediately after passing through 
 the gateway, leads up to the entrance proper. 
 These steps, without doubt, replaced others of a 
 much earlier date, of which a few traces are 
 even now discernible; and this former flight 
 was, at the first landing place^ divided into two, 
 leaving a sunk inclined plane or roadway in the 
 centre, paved with grooved, or more technically 
 <.(.liatched«, flags to facilitate the approach of the 
 animiils required for sacrifices. 
 
 At the top of the steps is an edifice, consisring 
 of a centre and two wings, known as the « i*ro- 
 pyloea», ( npojiiW^cua ) which was erected by 
 Pericles in the year 436. B. C This ruler and 
 great patron of the Arts, desiring to give to the 
 Acropolis an entrance worthy of that Sanctuary 
 of religion and art, ordered MnosiUlos, one 
 of ihe renowned architects of those days, to con- 
 struct a building to serve that purpose which 
 should by its beauty and grandeur share with 
 the Parthenon (which was but just completed) 
 the honour of being looked upon from tiiat time 
 forward and for ever, as the highest type of 
 architectural perlecfion; and from the remains 
 
n 
 
— 3 — 
 
 still extant, one cannot but leel that this object 
 has been attained. 
 
 The central and principal part of the Propy- 
 loea had a solid wall on either side, ending in 
 <iAnta'y> at both ends. Across the Porticoes thus 
 formed, were six fluted Doric Columns of twenty- 
 eight feet in height including the Capitals, rising 
 as is always the case with the columns of that 
 order, directly from the ccStylobate)). These were 
 flanked by two rows of Ionic Columus, of which 
 none of the Capitals now remain in position. 
 Through the central opening, passed the paved 
 roadway already alluded to, while the side open- 
 ings were approached by steps, and it is pro- 
 bable that all the entrances, of which there 
 were five, were closed by massive gates. 
 
 The North wing, which is the best preserved 
 portion of the Propyloea, consisted of a Portico, 
 facing the south, adorned with three Doric 
 Columns, and an inner Hall, called the «»*ina- 
 kottieka)) on account of its having been used 
 as a receptacle for Votive Paintings. Of this 
 Hall the walls are so solid that they have re- 
 sisted the repeated sieges of the enemies of the 
 Greeks, and still remain almost intact. 
 
 The south wing had a Portico also, adorned 
 jn the same way with three Doric Columns; in 
 this matter resembling the north wing which it 
 faced, but in every other respect it differed 
 from it and was altogether smaller in its pro- 
 
— 4 — 
 
 portions. From this and other evidence, it is 
 supposed that the original plan of the building, 
 as conceived by Mncsikles, was considerably 
 modified. 
 
 The whole of the Propyloea was undoubtedly 
 roofed over, tha ceiling having been divided 
 into sunken panels, technically called aCoffered 
 Panels,-)) ornamented by being picked out in 
 colour; and several of the enormous blocks of 
 marble that acted as beams for the roofing may 
 now be seen lying on the ground within the 
 building where they have fallen from above. 
 The immense size of these blocks which spanned 
 the spaces between the Columns (many of which 
 measure upwards of twenty-two feet and weigh, 
 between twelve and fourteen tons each) give 
 some idea of the magnitude of the undertaking,, 
 not in this case alone, but in the erection of all 
 the grand edifices of ancient Greece. The ques- 
 tion as to how these blocks for the roofs, as 
 well as the portions or drums of the columns 
 and other large masses required in the various 
 parts of the buildings, were raised into position 
 has often been mooted but never satisfactorily 
 explained. The difficulties presented by this part 
 of the work, and also in the quarrying and 
 transport of siich huge masses of marble from 
 Mount Pentelikon ( from whence all the white 
 marble used in these edifices was procured ) a 
 distance of several miles, suggest the idea that 
 
m 
 
D — 
 
 the mechanical appliances of upwards of two 
 thousand years ago must have been as perfect 
 as they are in the present day. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF NIKE APTEROS 
 
 The south wing of the Propylsea opens on to 
 the Bastion upon which stands the small Temple 
 of « rvike Apfceros » , (The Wingless Victory) 
 which is technically said to be (.(.Amphiprostyle 
 tetrastylea, meaning that it has four similar 
 Columns at each end. In this case these columns 
 are of the Ionic Order. The Temple was entirely 
 rebuilt by the Bavarian Architects, Shaubert and 
 Hansen, in the year 18.36, with the fragments 
 of the original temple recovered upon the de- 
 struction of a Turkish battery that had been 
 erected in the nth. Century upon the same site. 
 
 The Temple is raised upon a Stylobate led up 
 to by three « Krepidoma », or steps, and small 
 as it is and always was, it is evident that it was 
 profusely decorated both as to plastic ornament 
 and painting. Not only was a Frieze in bas- 
 relief carried entirely round the building, of 
 which two sides still remain in situ, some of 
 the panels which were taken to England by 
 Lord Elgin having been replaced by facsimiles 
 in Terra-Cotta, but the marble Balustrade which 
 went round three sides of the Bastion on which 
 
— 6 - 
 
 the Temple stands, was formerly adorned on the 
 outer side wif,h Reliefs. Of these, some were also 
 carried off by Lord Eljiin, and others were pla- 
 ced in the «Acro2Jolis Museum)), among which 
 latter are the very renowned panels of ((iViUe 
 sinci the Bull » ; that of the same Goddess 
 fastening her Sandal, generally known as the 
 « Randal Mike » ; and the « Veiletl XiUe » . 
 Before passing on, mention must be made of 
 a huge square Pedestal standing to the left of 
 the flight of steps leading up from the Beule 
 Gate. This once bore a statue of Agrippa, 
 son-in-law of the Emperor Augustus, who was 
 a renowned General, and in some way, of which 
 we have no record, a benefactor to the city of 
 Athens. What became of the statue is uncertain, 
 but this cannot be a matter either of interest 
 or regret, as it must always have been an eye- 
 sore in the midst of so much beauty. The only 
 pity is that the pedestal has not been removed 
 also / 
 
 Notice must be taken, before quitting the pre- 
 cincts of the Propylaea, of a (■erai-circular pede- 
 stal of a statue which will be found just in front 
 of the last column to the right. It bears an 
 inscription, still verv legible, to the effect that 
 the statue was raised in honour of « Atliena 
 Hjr^eia » , the Goddess of Health. According 
 to Plutarch, it was erected by Pericles during 
 the construction of the Propyhwi to commemo- 
 
w 
 
— 7 — 
 
 rate the recovery of one of the ■workmen who, 
 having fallen from a great height, was so se- 
 riously injured that his life was despaired of, but 
 who was miraculously restored to health by a 
 remedy indicated to Pericles by the Goddess in 
 a dream. 
 
 And now, having passed through the Propy- 
 Icea, the visitor will find himself on the Plateau 
 of the Acropolis, which consists of an irregular 
 polygon, of which the extreme length is about 
 250 yards, by 130 yards broad; levelled more or 
 less all over. This was the work of many dis- 
 tinct periods. The first portion , was done by 
 that semi-mythical race, the aPelasgiansn, who 
 at the same time surrounded a great part of it 
 with retaining walls remains of which are still 
 to be seen. The backs of these walls wore filled 
 in with the chips of rock obtained by the level- 
 ling of the top ; thus increasing the area of the 
 platform and forming a solid substructure for 
 the buildings afterwards to be raised on it. Much 
 of the work of the Pelasgians was destroyed by 
 the Persians, but after the* defeat of the latter 
 at Salamis, Themistocles caused the walls to be 
 rebuilt and the Acropolis to be strongly fortified. 
 
 The Temble that formerl}' stood on the site 
 of the Parthenon, was utterly destroyed in the 
 wars with the Persians and the debris was used 
 in the construction of the north wall; marble 
 drums of columns^ Triglyphs of Poros stone, and 
 
other portions of the former erection being still 
 plainly visible embedded in the masonry. A few 
 years after this, the south wall was built by 
 Cimon at a distance considerably farther out 
 than the Pelasgian wall, so that the area of level 
 ground was again increased. A portion 0/ the 
 first wall was discovered on the south side of 
 the Parthenon during one of the most recent 
 of the many distinct researches that have taken 
 place on the Acropolis; and on filling in the 
 excavations, care has been taken to leave this 
 very interesting bit of ancient workmanship 
 exposed. This pan therefore be easily examined. 
 The only edifices of which any considerable 
 portions are still standing are the « Parthe- 
 11011 )) of Pericles, and the <(Ei*ecIitlioioii » , 
 of about the same or a slightly earlier date — 
 grand relics of that golden period but many 
 other buildings are known to have existed on 
 the Acropolis in still earlier times, such as the 
 Temple of « .Vi-teniis Bran i*on ins » , etc. 
 Of the works of those by-gone ages, traces are 
 even now occasionally stumbled upon, and many 
 are the conjectures as to these former struc- 
 tures, of which nothing is really known. They 
 were, however, in all probability, pulled down 
 to make room for the grander works of a gran- 
 der age, the ruins of which still attract our 
 warmest admiration. 
 
 .-.^«<o. — 
 
— 9 — 
 
 THE PARTHENON 
 
 The paved roadway, before mentioned, after 
 passing through the central gate of the Propy- 
 leea, was continued round by the north side of 
 the Parthenon to the principal entrance at the 
 east end. 
 
 This Temple of ancient reniown which was 
 erected under the rule of Pericles, being comple- 
 ted about the year 'iSS. B. C. was (or rather is) 
 of the Doric order of Architecture, and techni- 
 cally termed a. Ootastylos peyipteros in Aniis», 
 which means that it was surrounded on all sides 
 by a Colonnade, with a Portico at either end 
 consisting of eight columns. These eight columns 
 were flanked by six rather smaller columns, 
 rising from the upper step of the Stylobate. The 
 number of columns on each side was seventeen, 
 making fifty-eight in all, of which forty-one 
 are now standing including two that have been 
 re-erected at some former time. The interco- 
 lumniation is not equal, the spaces at the sides 
 being rather wider than in the Porticos; but 
 roughly it may be said that the spaces are nine 
 fifths of the diameter of the columns at their 
 base, which is six feet, two inches. 
 
 It is worthy of remark that the principles of 
 arithmetical proportion are thoroughly and con- 
 scientiously carried out in all ancient Greek 
 
— 10 - 
 building, and this is particularly evident in the 
 Parthenon. 
 
 A ratio of 4. to 9—5. to 10.-6. to 11, -and 
 so on up to 9, to 14. has been found by Mr. Ten- 
 rose in his researches to have been a favourite 
 proportion among Greek architects; and this is 
 noticeable in the measurement of many parts of 
 the Parthenon. For instance, the Stylobate is 
 10 1 feet broad, by 228 feet long, or as near as 
 possible in the proportion of 4. to 9. Again, the 
 freight to the top of the Pediment from the base 
 of the columns is to the width of the Stylobate 
 as 7. to 12, 
 
 There are a few other points connected with 
 the building of the Parthenon which should not 
 be passed over by those who take any interest 
 in the early works of the Greeks, considering 
 the marked influence that they had upon the art 
 of later times. Of these points, the first to be 
 noticed is that the exterior columns all lean 
 slightly (one may almost say imperceptibly) 
 inwards at the top, and even the walls of the 
 Cella have the same tendency; which is one of 
 the proofs that the Greeks in the first instance 
 borrowed a good many of their ideas upon archi- 
 tecture from the Egyptians, whose edifices all 
 bear a decided inclination in tlie same direction, 
 adopted by them more foi* the sake of strength 
 than for elegance, though this latter element is 
 not lost by it. 
 
— 11 — 
 
 Besides tliis, not one of tlie principal hori- 
 zontal lines in the Parthenon is absolutely flat, 
 but all rise slightly in the centre; so slight indeed 
 is the convexity that it is not surprising that 
 until quite recently, this point should have esca- 
 ped the notice of even the learned in Archaic 
 matters. The lines of the Krepidoma also, curve 
 a trifle inwards, these peculiarities being met 
 with frequently in the ancient monuments of 
 Greece. 
 
 It is impossible that these things can have 
 been the effect of chance, and one cannot but feel 
 that profound thought must have been brought to 
 bear upon the question to have produced a result 
 so perfect. We are taught by science that the 
 mind, guided by experience, is always endeavour- 
 ing to correct the images presented to the 
 eye — and in this case it is not improbable that 
 in buildings of such magnitude as the Parthe- 
 non, and some other Greek Temples, perfectly 
 straight and horizontal lines would have lost 
 the effect of correctness by perspective. There 
 is no doubt that this apparent distortion would 
 have been greatly intensified to the ancients, 
 whose eyes were only accustomed to natural 
 objects; and that fact proves in a still greater 
 degree the amount of thought that was. expen- 
 ded upon their grandest works. The hypothesis 
 here put forward is confirmed by a passage in 
 Vitruvius 's treatise on architecture of which, 
 
12 
 
 till recent times, the sense has been but imper- 
 fectly understood. 
 
 ((It is necessary)), he says, «that the Stylo- 
 bate should be raised in the centre by means of 
 blocks progressively unequal, for, were it To be 
 kept rigorously flat, it would appear to the eye 
 to sink in the centre ». 
 
 Another question, formerly of doubt but now 
 an ascertained fact, relates to colour, which was 
 largely introduced not only in the architecture 
 but in the sculpture of the Grecians. Many of the 
 statues found during the excavations on the 
 Acropolis at different times, bear unmistakable 
 traces of it. It has been thought by many that 
 the effect of the purity of the marble must have 
 been impaired by the practice of introducing 
 colour at any rate into the statuary, and it is 
 difficult to those gifted with artistic perceptions 
 to imagine how it can have been otherwise. ^Ve 
 are, however, not in a position to judge of the 
 effect as a whole, in the clear and brilliant at- 
 mosphere of southern Europe; and in the absence 
 of further data, it would seem presumptuous to 
 criticise the taste of so refined a people as were 
 the ancient Greeks. 
 
 But to return to the description of the Par- 
 thenon. Within the Colonnade, at a distanei; of 
 nine feet from the columns, was the Cella, IA'2 
 feet long, by 63 feet broad (again as nine to 
 four), of whicli only tlie western wall and por- 
 
— 13 — 
 
 tions of the two side walls now remain, massive 
 as they appear io have been. The ((Ceiiat) 
 was divided into two unequal parts, of which 
 that at the eastern end was the larger. In it, in 
 front of the partition wall, the foundation of 
 which is plainly visible, and facing the eastern 
 door, stood the colossal, chryselephantine statue 
 of « Atiiena » (the Greek name for Minerva) by 
 Pheidias. Of this magnificent and far-famed work 
 of art, not a vestige now remains; but a small 
 copy of it may be seen in the National Museum, 
 under which heading a further description of 
 this statuette will be found. It may, however, be 
 mentioned here that the statue was thirty-nine 
 feet in height and was composed of Ivory and 
 Gold, the figure of Athena holding in one hand 
 a spear and in the other, a small statue of 
 <( i%iUe » (Victory ). 
 
 The Goddess Athena, designated by the Greeks 
 «n riaoSevoc" — or ((the 'Virgin)), gave the 
 name to the eastern compartment of the Cella 
 in which the statue was placed, and hence the 
 whole edifice came to be Known as « 6 nap6e- 
 vcov » — or the (( Abode of the Vii-§i;iii )> . 
 
 This compartment was divided into three parts 
 longditudinally by two rows of nine columns, of 
 which there are now no remains. These columns 
 were of the Doric order of architecture, but of 
 smaller dimensions than those of the Colonnade. 
 This question has been determined by the marks 
 
— 14 — 
 
 of their bases that have been found in the pave- 
 ment, which indicate by tlie sliape of the fluting 
 that they belonged to that order and not to the 
 Ionic. If this was so, they would have been lower 
 than the outside columns as well as smaller in 
 circumference, in which case the probability is 
 that there were other columns still smaller 
 above them, forming a Clere-Story, to make 
 them of equal, or perhaps greater height than 
 the Colonnade, for these interior columns were 
 placed in the position described with the evi- 
 dent intention of supporting the roof, with which 
 all authorities are now agreed in believing the 
 whole building to have been covered. The ques- 
 tion as to whether it was flat or gabled is still 
 a disputed point; though how thei'e can be any 
 doubt upon the subject has always been a matter 
 of surprise to me and to many others. Every- 
 thing points to the roof having been gabled, the 
 Pediments, at either end, alone being sufficient 
 to make this a self-evident fact. Their appear- 
 ance, when viewed from the side, would indeed 
 have been very ungainly with nothing to con- 
 nect them ! 
 
 In this eastern part of the Temple were car- 
 ried on all the religious services and ceremonies. 
 
 The other and smaller compartment, which 
 was called the Opisthodomus (meaning literally 
 the back house or room) was entered from the 
 western Portico, and was used as a pulilic Trea- 
 
-VI 
 
 
 J 
 
— 15 — 
 
 sury. This had interior columns also for the 
 support ot the roof — four in number, placed 
 towards the centre, and equidistant from the 
 four surrounding walls. These from their pro- 
 portions are generally supposed to have been of 
 the Ionic order, and though more slender, of 
 equal height with those of the Colonnade. 
 
 The means by which light was admitted into 
 the Temple is another disputed point. Some are 
 of opinion that there were openings in the roof, 
 capable of being covered when not required, but 
 it is much more probable that the only light 
 that was permitted to enter was by the large 
 double doors at either end. The principal en- 
 trance at the east end was not due east, but was 
 placed exactly facing the spot where the sun 
 first shows itself above Mount Hymettos in the 
 early morning, at the time of year when the 
 great « Panathenaic Festival » took place: 
 and the idea is a grand one that at the moment 
 of the sun 's appearance, which the crowds of 
 worshippers assembled outside were anxiously 
 awaiting, the great door should have been thrown 
 open, permitting a flood of light to fall through 
 it directly on to the superb statue of their God- 
 dess Athena. 
 
 Round the four walls of the Cella, on the exte- 
 rior, was the celebrated Frieze, of which the 
 greater portion was taken to England by Lord 
 Elgin and placed in the British Museum; but 
 
— 16 - 
 
 some original panels can be seen in the Acro- 
 polis Museum, besides casts of those in England. 
 Moreover, the whole of the Frieze along the 
 west front of the Parthenon is still in situ, and 
 in a marvellous state of preservation conside- 
 ring the number of centuries it has been in 
 existence, though from its position, that portion 
 has been more protected than the rest of the 
 exterior ornamentation of the Temple. 
 
 The subject of this great master-piece of art, 
 the work of the contemporaries of Pheidias and 
 considered to have been at any rate superintend- 
 ed by him, is the Panathenaic Procession which 
 is directed toMards the east end of the building, 
 commencing at the west end, which protion 
 consists principally of youths preparing to mount 
 their horses in order to join the train proceeding 
 along the north side. The figures of the frieze 
 along the south side, including oxen being led 
 to the sacrifice by females, were also directed 
 towards the east end where the two trains met, 
 there being in the centre the seated figures of 
 twelve Deities. 
 
 AVhat remains of this work of art is naturally 
 a good deal dilapidated and much of its beauty 
 is lost; but the variety and spirit in tlie atti- 
 tudes of the figures both of horses and men, the 
 grace of the females, and the grandeur of the 
 whole conception is, even in its present condi- 
 tion, unmistakable, and all that is lofr of tlie 
 
frieze deserves the most careful examination. It 
 has been thought by many of those who have 
 only seen separate portions of the frieze in Mu- 
 seums, and not what is still in position, that the 
 effect would have been grander if the figures 
 had been in higher relief; but had this been 
 done, the shadows cast by them would have 
 been so dense (the position of the frieze liaving 
 been such that it could only be viewed in a 
 semi-light from below) that the effect would have 
 been entirely altered. The attention of visitors is 
 called to the portion at the west end still intact 
 in corroboration of this fact, and they should 
 also notice that the panels are slightly tilted 
 forward at the top, to enable those beneath to 
 get a better view of the design. 
 
 The Architrave of the Colonnade was adorned 
 all round with Triglyplis (originally painted and 
 gilt^ the channels having been of a deep blue 
 colour) and Metopes, consisting of sculptured 
 reliefs on a red field. Of these there were four- 
 teen at each end and thirty-two at each side, 
 making ninety-two in all. Those at the west 
 end are still in place, but so nearly obliterated 
 from their long exposure to the elements that 
 the subjects of the reliefs can scarcely be made 
 out. They appear, however, to represent con- 
 tests between men on foot and on horseback— 
 probably historical incidents. Those at the east 
 end are supposed to have pourtrayed the works 
 
 2 
 
— 18 - 
 
 and deeds of Atliena; while those on the north 
 and south sides, of which but few now remain, 
 were representations of the combats of the Athe- 
 nians with Amazons, fights l)etween men and 
 Centaurs, and other Attic mythological subjects. 
 The best preserved of these Metopes are now in 
 London, and one of them is at Paris. It is diffi- 
 cult to judge of them in their present condition, 
 but they do not appear to have been of equal 
 interest or of- the same artistic value as the 
 frieze, and were doubtless executed by inferior 
 hands. 
 
 The rectangular holes that may be seen in the 
 Architrave (the most conspicuous are at the east 
 end) formerly held plugs on which were sus- 
 pended shields, many of which were gold and 
 of magnificent workmanship, supposed to have 
 .been placed there by Alexander the Great after 
 some of his victories. The smaller holes beneath 
 were for attaching the names and inscriptions 
 of those engaged in the wars. 
 
 Of the far-famed Sculptures in the Pediments, 
 the crowning glory of the Parthenon, but little, 
 sad to relate, now remains, and all that we have 
 to give us any idea of the grouping and execu- 
 tion of this wonderful piece of work ot the great 
 Pheidias are the well known drawings of Carey, 
 who visited Athens about the year 1870. and 
 the descriptions of the travellers Wheeler and 
 Spon, and later on of Stuart, in Avhose time much 
 
— 19 — 
 
 was in place that has since disappeared. Pausa- 
 nias, \Yho on many subjects connected with the 
 beauties of Athens wrote so fully, has unfortu- 
 nately only given us an extremely meagre ac- 
 count of these sculptures. 
 
 The general subject of the groups in the Pe- 
 diment on the east or principal front of the edi- 
 fice, related to the birth of Athena who is sup- 
 posed to have sprung fully armed from the head 
 of Zens, (or Jupiter) but according to Pau- 
 sanias, this fable was not actually represented, 
 as has been supposed by many authorities —at 
 least, not the moment of its consummation but 
 just after the miracle had taken place; for he 
 mentions the figure of Athena as standing on 
 the ground at the side of her father who is gaz- 
 ing at her with surprise and awe. 
 
 Some Torsos and other fragments are in the 
 British Museum, but nothing remains in position 
 but the heads of one or two horses belonging to. 
 the chariots of Helios and Selene. 
 
 The group of figures in the Pediment on the 
 west front, are described as having represented 
 the contention of l»osei<lon (rveptune) with 
 Athena for the possession of Attica. Of this 
 group but two figures remain, close to the north 
 angle, which are supposed to have represented 
 E^sculapius and his daughter llygeia; and 
 at the other angle, the Torso of a female figure-, 
 supposed to have been the nymph K.aUii*lioe- 
 
— 20 — 
 
 All}' further description of what must have 
 been so grand and beautiful in its entirety^ 
 would be useless and out of place in a small 
 work that only professes to deal with those 
 works af art of which some portions still remain 
 in a greater or lesser degree of preservation. 
 
 Of the interior decorations of the Cella, no- 
 thing can now be seen beyond slight traces of 
 paintings which date from the time when the 
 Parthenon was used as a church during the By- 
 zantine period. Enough still remains to show 
 that they were representations of saints^ but 
 nothing further is known about them. 
 
 Formerly there were in the interior of the 
 Parthenon numerous portrait busts and paint- 
 ings, besides some shields and other trophies 
 captured in battle, for which the Sanctuary was 
 the receptacle ; but of these there are now no 
 traces. There is a collection of small bronze sta- 
 tuettes and other ornaments in the Acropolis 
 Museum, of which some may possibh' have come 
 from the Parthenon^ but of the general internal 
 decoration of this magnificent Temple in the 
 days of its glory, little or nothing is really 
 known. 
 
YH 
 
 
— 21 — 
 
 THE ERECHTHEION 
 
 This beautiful specimen of a Temple of a to- 
 tallj^ different style from the Parthenon, is the 
 next object of interest to be visited on the Acro- 
 polis. 
 
 It lies near the north wall, and much of it is 
 still in a wonderfully good state of preservation. 
 It should properly be called the Temple of 
 Atliena Roliaa, (the patron saint, or rather 
 goddess, of the town of Athens) but on account 
 of its having been erected on the site of a former 
 temple dedicated to Ereelitlieus — an Athe- 
 nian hero, afterwards made a God — the new 
 edifice got to be known by the old appellation, 
 besides which it is not improbable that the Altar 
 of Erechtheus was preserved, which would 
 have given an additional motive for the reten- 
 tion of the name. 
 
 Three distinct portions of this temple are still 
 standing, which seem to have been more or less 
 distinct in their original formation. The Ionic 
 Portico at the east end is not in a very good 
 state of preservation, though the columns, of 
 which there were six, are all standing, with the 
 exception of one that was carried away by Lord 
 Elgin. This Portico, which is in many respects 
 not so beautiful as other parts of the temple, led 
 into the larger division of the interior — the 
 
compartment that was especially dedicated to 
 Athena Polias. The Goddess was represented 
 by a statue made of Olive wood, which was sup- 
 posed to have fallen from the skies and to have 
 then been placed in the temple dedicated to her 
 honour, becoming an object of the greatest ve- 
 neration to the people of Athens. Though pro- 
 bably of infinitely inferior workmanship, it was 
 considered of much greater value and was al- 
 together held in higher estimation than the two 
 later very fine productions of Pheidias, but not- 
 withstanding this feeling of veneration, no re- 
 cord has been preserved of the ultimate fate of 
 the statue, or more properly speaking, the wood- 
 en figure; as is the case unfortunately with 
 many of the \\ orks of those times of far i^reater 
 intrinsic value. 
 
 In this part of the temple, a light was kept 
 perpetually burning in a golden lamp made by 
 Kallimarhos, which only required fresh oil once 
 a year, the smoke being carried off, according 
 to Pausanias, by a chimney formed to resem- 
 ble a Palm leaf. Here also is supposed to have 
 grown the miraculous Olive ti-ee planted by 
 Athena herself, but tiie exact spot in which it 
 stood has not been detei'mined ; noi- has that 
 
 which contained the lair of the sacred snake 
 
 another of ihc attributes of fl e Goddess- nor 
 that ol'tlie \Ye\i which ■-•oH«'irioii, durin«' his 
 ointest with Alhena for the possession of Attica 
 
— 23 - 
 
 caused to appear by a stroke of his trident, at 
 the same moment that she produced the Olive. 
 
 This Olive tree was burnt to a stnmp by the 
 Persians in the year 480. B. C. when the Temple 
 was considerably damaged, though not utterly 
 destroyed. The tree nevertheless survived, and 
 ■in two days, according to the earliest writers 
 of these mythological tales, sent out shoots of 
 one cubit long; while later historialns, in telling 
 the same story equally seriously, increase the 
 miraculous growth to two cubitsan one day ! 
 
 On the south side of the Temple juts out the 
 celebrated « Porch of the Caryatides » . As 
 a work of art, this is more curious than beau- 
 tiful, for the elfect as a whole is not thoroughly 
 satisfactory from an artistic point of view, 
 though the fugures individually are finely mo- 
 delled. They have been in a measure restored, 
 and one of the figures has been entirely renewed 
 in Terra- Gotta, to replace the one that had been 
 taken away by Lord Elgin, so that, they now 
 virtually present their original appearance to 
 the eye. 
 
 It may seem presumptuous to criticize a work 
 of art which is generally so highly extolled, but 
 the writer is not alone in her opinion that the 
 weight of the Cornice and whole superstructure 
 has the appearance of being too great to be sup- 
 ported by the figures of young women (always 
 supposed to be delicate in their proportions) 
 
— 24 — 
 
 Avithout the slightest apparent effort. These par- 
 ticular maidens are undoubtedly of «a vigorous 
 beauty, full of the spirit of youthful grace and 
 vitality, powerful and well built))— to quote the 
 words of Carl Bfodeker— but tlieir attitudes ^re 
 not compatible with tlie strain that would be 
 needed, even by muscular men, to bear so evi- 
 dent a weight. Besides this objection, it must be 
 admitted that the whole Porch gives the idea of 
 an after-thought, and is out of keeping with the 
 rest of the structure. 
 
 On the north side there is again another Por- 
 tico, which is in itself so beautiful as to amply 
 make up for any deflciences in the other parts 
 of the building. It consists of six Ionic Columns 
 of which the decoration is very rich ; and the 
 doorway, leading to the division of the sanctuary 
 known as the « ■*a«»clroseion » , to which it 
 forms a shelter, has some delicate carving all 
 round the architrave, a great part of which is 
 as perfect as if it had been done but a few years 
 ago. The patterns which compose this elegant 
 bordering are the well known «EggandTon- 
 guew moulding and the «Papyrus and Palmettea 
 scroll, so often reproduced in modern ornamen- 
 tation, both in architecture and for other pur- 
 poses- 
 Round the whole of the Temple ran the usual 
 Ionic Frieze, which in tliis ease consisted of 
 figures in white Pai-ian marble on a "-round of 
 
VIII 
 
"black Eleus^inian stone. Of this there but a lew 
 small fragments left, and it is impossible to judge 
 of the eftect produced by this mixture of colours, 
 as the Eleusinian marble has lost its brilliancy 
 And now only appends of a dingy blue shade. 
 
 On the west end of the Erechtheion there was 
 no Porch, but simply a flat wall with four enga- 
 ged Ionic columns, and three windows between 
 them; but these latter were probably additions 
 of the Roman, or even of a later period. 
 
 The interior arrangements of the Temple have 
 gone through so many vicissitudes since the time 
 of its original construction — it having been first 
 converted into a Christian Church, then into a 
 Turkish Harem, and finally into a Powder ma- 
 gazine -that it is impossible to find out if the 
 partition walls, fragments of which ma}' still be 
 seen, formed a part of the first plan or not. It 
 is, however, certain that the Sanctuary was 
 always in two separate parts at least, for the 
 Ionic Portico at the north side is on an entirely 
 different level from that at the east end and the 
 Caryatid Porch. Pausanias too, describes it as a 
 <(double Temple)), and the differenca of the I.evel, 
 both within and without, has been mentioned 
 by other writers as one of the singularities of 
 the structure. Whether this was the result of a 
 pre-arranged plan, or on account of its having 
 been built in separate parts and afterwards con- 
 nected, we cannot tell ; nor can we imagine 
 
- iG — 
 
 -what offect may have produced by this pecu- 
 liarity, but there can be little doubt that the 
 Erechtheion was one of the most beautiful spe- 
 cimens of the ornate and richly decorated style 
 of architecture of the Ionic order that was erec- 
 ted when Hellenic Art was at its zenith. 
 
 Fragments of marble with very elegant and 
 delicate carving; portions of the ceiling, which 
 was composed of the same Coffered Panels as 
 those of the Propyla'a and the Colonnade of the 
 Parthenon; bits of the Cornice; etc; may be 
 seen on the ground near the building, by which 
 some idea may be gained of its former beautiful 
 ornamentation. 
 
 It must not be supposed that the foregoing 
 descriptions of the principal buildings now stan- 
 ding on the Acropolis has by any means exhaust- 
 ed the objects of interest to be met with 
 almost at every step. The spot where the large 
 statue of (( i%.tlieiia Promaclios » , by Phei- 
 dias, stood, can still be traced. It was placed to 
 the left of the paved roadway leading to the 
 east end of 1he Parthenon, soon after paasing 
 through the Propyljoa; and the pedestals of 
 many other statues may be found - some of them 
 bearing very interesting inscriptions. One comes 
 across, too, various portions of walls which are 
 un<ioubtedi\' remains of ancient structures, and 
 curious steps here and there, cut in the rock 
 and leading from one level to another. 
 
K 
 
 Q'^ 
 
 
 
— 27 — 
 
 There are also certain flights of steps, some 
 built and some cut in the rock, of historical 
 fame, leading from the Acropolis on the north 
 side do^yn to the old town ; one of these having 
 been used by the Persians to gain an entrance 
 TO this stronghold. They had all, however, been 
 blocked up during the various seiges that the 
 Acropolis has undergone, and have only recently 
 been opened out. Besides these more substantial 
 remains, sundry fragments of columns; marble 
 Vases; bits of carving; and other relics of the 
 past may be seen scattered about over the whole 
 Plateau in desolate chaos! 
 
 Researches by the members of the many Ar- 
 chaeological Schools and societies of different 
 nationalities, are always going on; and disco- 
 veries of Art treasures are still constantly being- 
 made, even in spots that had been supposed to 
 have been thoroughly investigated previously, 
 and the stranger will And ample to reward him 
 for any length of time devoted to a place so full 
 of historical reminiscences. 
 
 THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM 
 
 This Museum, which is placed very unobtru- 
 sively in a hollow beyond the east end of the 
 Parthenon, is devoted to objects found on the 
 
— 28 — 
 
 Acropolis, and many of them are of great in- 
 terest. 
 
 Admission is free at the following hours, viz. 
 from 6. to II. a, m. and from 3. p. m. till dusk, 
 in summer, and from 9. to 12. a. m. and 2. to 4 
 p. m. in winter, every week day. On Sundays it 
 is open in the morning only, at the same hours. 
 
 To gain admission to the building, 3'ou des- 
 cend a flight of steps into a sort of small yard, 
 where some fragments of large statues are pla- 
 ced, of no particular value except for their an- 
 tiquity and some slabs of marble bearing inscrip- 
 tions in very ancient characters, which may be 
 interesting to those who can decipher them. 
 
 On entering the vestibule, a square pedestal, 
 evidently of the Archaic period, with reliefs on 
 the four sides, meets the eye. There are also 
 sundry other fragments ot reliefs of unknown 
 origin; while on the wall to the right is a fine 
 specimen of carving from the Cornice of the 
 Erechtheion. 
 
 In the first roon to the right') are a few busts 
 and heads, but nothing of any great beauty or 
 interest, the' small Bronzes which till quite re- 
 cently had been exposed there having been re- 
 moved to the Central Museum, the cases which 
 
 ViMl.,1-, are now generally shown hy the IlUendanl^ liiM into the room to 
 the left— traversing the room, in the rover-o dirocHon to this descriiition — the 
 latest catalo^iic^ Imvlng been so numbered ; but this dnor-ity will not alleot so 
 slight u retidiir of the principal objects of Interest :i~ this professes to be. 
 
^ -*xW^>^ 
 
 
 
— 59 - 
 
 formerly contained them being now empty. Sucli 
 particulars as are known about these finds may 
 be learned at the Cuntral or National Museum. 
 
 The next room contains slabs from the Ba- 
 lustrade, and other bits of sculpture from the 
 Temple of Nike Apteros. Among these is the fa- 
 mous relief representing the « Giotldess t^^in^ 
 lier !9»nclal » , as well as the other celebrated 
 relief from the Frieze, with the « Oull being 
 led to sacrifice » . both of which have been 
 mentioned in the description of the Temple of 
 Nike. They are especially worthy of notice for 
 the grace and elegance of the figures seen 
 through the very delicate drapery. There are 
 also in this room some portions of figures in Pa- 
 rian marble from the Frieze of the Erechtheion, 
 of which mention was made in the description 
 of that temple. 
 
 In the third and fourth rooms will be found 
 all that has been collected of the sculptures from 
 the Parthenon, either originals or Casts. All 
 that remains of the Frieze and the Metopes is 
 worthy of inspection, but particular notice 
 should be taken of the two panels of the Frieze 
 placed diagonally to the right on entering the 
 third room, in which the figures of both horses 
 and men are singularly spirited and easy. To 
 the left of the door are placed two other origi- 
 nal panels especially worthy of remark, in the 
 upper one of which the three female figures car- 
 
— 30 — 
 
 rving vessels on their slioulders, are particu- 
 larly graceful. Im mediately opposite these, at 
 the other end of the room, is a panel from the 
 east end of the Parthenon, with three sitting fi- 
 gures known as a The "ITln-ee GocIh » , \\ Inch 
 are considered to be admirable in their pose. 
 
 Near this is a cast from a panel of which 
 the original is in the British Museum, the re- 
 lief consisting of three figures whifh repre- 
 sent (( iEeiis » , « iici*a » , and her attendant 
 « Iris » , again from the Frieze of the east end. 
 This panel is especially interesting on account 
 of the head of the last named figure, which it 
 will be seen is in the original marble and is 
 fixed on to the cast, it having been found during 
 the demolition of the Byzantine wall at the 
 south-west corner of the Acropolis only in 1889. 
 The discovery made a great stir among Ar- 
 chseologists at the time, and there was some 
 controversy as to which of the headless figures 
 it belonged to, but it has without doubt, been 
 finally rightly adjusted. It seems a pity that the 
 two parts of the original should not be brought 
 together either in England or at Athens. 
 
 Of the portions of the statues from the Pedi- 
 ments collected in these rooms, the only origi- 
 nals are the Torsos of « Selono » and « lle- 
 plioestos » from the east Pediment; and « llis- 
 sos)) and the Torso of u Posoi<loii » from 
 the west Pediment, but there are several casts 
 
XL 
 
— 31 — 
 
 from those that are in the British Museum. 
 Beliind the door into the small fourth room is a 
 relief with the very graceful figure called the 
 « JMoiii-ning Athena » . The Goddess is sup- 
 posed to be looking down over the plain of Ma- 
 rathon and mourning for the warriors stain in 
 that famous battle, and the attitude is singularly 
 expressive of grief In this room also are seve- 
 ral of the Metopes from the Parthenon, of which 
 the most prominent among the few originals — 
 the greater number of these Metopes being 
 casts — is a group with a Centaur carrying off a 
 woman of the Lapithse. 
 
 The next room contains a collection of pain- 
 ted statues of females that were all found toge- 
 ther, buried near the north w;all of the Acropo- 
 lis to the west of the Erechtheion, during some 
 of the most recent excavations; with the excep- 
 tion of three which were discovered in 1882 to 
 the east of the Parthenon. 
 
 These statues, of which there are as many as 
 fourteen altogether, are very much prized as 
 being quite unique of their kind. They are evi- 
 dently Archaic and considering that they must 
 be upwards of twenty -three centuries old, they 
 are marvellously well preserved- As a study of 
 ancient drapery^ these figures are invaluable, 
 but for their intrinsic beauty not much can be 
 said. There is a remarkable similarity in these 
 statues, not only in the expression of the faces 
 
- H2 — 
 
 but in the attitude of the figures, which gives- 
 colour to tiie supposition that they were typical 
 statues rather than portraits. They all appear to- 
 have been holding some part of the garment in 
 the left hand, while the right hand (missing in 
 almost every instance) seems to have been ex- 
 tended forwards from the elbow with, in all pro- 
 bability, something held in it -an ornament, or 
 some fruit as is indicated by some fragments 
 which were found near the buried statues. 
 
 A curious peculiarity in these figures is a small 
 socket in the back of the head in which was fix- 
 ed a bronze pin, as may still be seen in one of 
 them, now numbered 682, and these have been a 
 source of much diversit}' of opinion among the 
 learned in such jiiatters. Archaeologists are,, 
 however, now almost universally agreed in sup- 
 posing them to have been used to support a sort 
 of umbrella to protect the statues from the incle- 
 mency of the weather, as they probably stood in 
 the open air. They were without doubt elabo- 
 rately painted, traces of colour being still con- 
 spicuous, and it is thought that on this account 
 some shelter may have been needed for their 
 preservation. They have been called « Stntucs 
 of Hope)), or more properly speaking, «of 
 the Spes type)), but without much foundation; 
 and any opinion as to what they really were, or 
 as to where they stood, must be purely specu- 
 lative. They are, however, an extremelv inter- 
 
xn 
 
 ^€^ 
 
 4''' 
 
 •/ '-<^~^^^^y>X 
 
 t. 
 
 .1 
 
 t! 
 
 4 
 
 M 
 
 * Ai ^,„ * Vi>,* 
 
 ■.•-,<? 
 
 v^ 
 
- 33 - 
 
 esting study on account of their dissimilarity to 
 any other statues found on the Acropolis, or 
 indeed anywhere in Athens. 
 
 In the remaining rooms will be found sundry 
 fragments of Vases; Bronzes; bits of Carving, 
 and other architectural remains; coloured Pic- 
 tures both on plain slabs of marble and in re- 
 lief; and Terra - Cotta figures ; besides a few 
 large pieces, of sculpture in glass cases, more 
 curious than beautiful. One of these is espe- 
 cially valuable as a specimen of the earliest 
 Archaic Art, it being probably a work of as early 
 a date as the seventh century before the Christ- 
 ian era. It represents a monster with three 
 bodies, probably the Giant Xyphon, the up- 
 per part representing the body of a man, the 
 lower part that of a serpent, the rest being dif- 
 ficult to distinguish. The two large pieces of 
 sculpture near this monster— the one represent- 
 ing Herakles killing Triton; and the other 
 a bull attacked by two lions— are almost equally 
 curious for their antiquity. The three were found 
 close together to the south of '.the Parthenon, 
 during the excavations that took place in 1888. 
 
 All the objects of interest collected in this 
 Museum have been found on the Acropolis itself, 
 either on the surface where they had fallen from 
 the different edifices, or buried in the earth, 
 and only brought to light in the course of the 
 investigations that heve been made by Arch?e- 
 
 3 
 
— ;vj _ 
 
 ologists from time to time within the last fifty 
 or sixty years. 
 
 Reference to the different objects by number 
 has been avoided, as in this Museum the classi- 
 fication, arrangement, and numbering, is con- 
 stantly being altered ; but Cataloi: ues are sold in 
 the building, which will be found of some assist- 
 ance to visitors. 
 
 The view from the Acropolis in every direc- 
 tion is extensive and very beautiful. Looking 
 towards the north, a Panorama of the modern 
 town of Athens is seen; while to the east lie 
 Mount Hymettos and the Pentelikon range, and 
 from the valley of the Ilissos between them rises 
 abruptly the highest hill within the precincts of 
 Athens known as « Mount l^ykal>etto!« » , 
 on the summit of which is the small church of 
 St. Geoi-g-e. Up this hill a climb (not difficult 
 of accomplishment) should be made by the stran- 
 ger before leaving Athens, as from the top a 
 great extent of country can be seen in all direc- 
 tions. To the south-west of the Acropolis, the 
 view is most lovely. From the edge of the Pro- 
 pyloea, looking out in that direction over the 
 hills immediately under the Acropolis, a stretch 
 of low land extends, beyond which the blue sea 
 glistens in the clear, bright atmosphere. Rather 
 to the right, rises up the island of Salamis, of 
 
XTFT 
 
— 35 - 
 
 historical renown, while more towards the south 
 is vEgina with the mountains of the mainland 
 showing beyond it in the distance. 
 
 Truly an enchanting prospect! Fit subject for 
 the Painter's brush and for the Poet's pen; and 
 gazing over the fair scene spread, before our 
 eyes, it is easy to understand how Lord Byron 
 would be inspired to compose the many beau- 
 iifiil lines he has writen on Athena's land ! 
 
 A visit to the Acropolis by moonlight, when 
 -that orb is at its full, is made by most of the 
 visitors to Athens, and is usually considered 
 worth the trouble. It is naturally more in the 
 idea of the romance connected with the expedi- 
 tion that the pleasure lies than in any special 
 advantage to be gained, though the weird effect 
 of the shadows thrown by the moon among the 
 grand relics of former glories — the majestic 
 ruins seeming to acquire additional magnitude 
 in the soft, romantic light— cannot fail to have 
 attraction for mapy. 
 
 :. Tickets of admission are required for this ex- 
 pedition, as the Beuld Gate is closed at sunset; 
 but they are easily obtainable from M"' Kavva- 
 dias, the chief Ephor of Antiquities, at the Office 
 of the ((Minister of Education)), in Hermes 
 Street, ..-y^u^ ; 
 
— 36 — 
 
 Outside the Acropolis, on the nortli-west slope, 
 below the Pinakoton, is the celebrated ancient 
 Well called the « WLIepsydra)) , to which a, 
 flight of steps formerly led down to the outside 
 world from the Propyloea. Remains of these ir- 
 regular steps can still be seen from the outside, 
 but no sign of them can be traced at the upper 
 end of the flight. The spring was re-discovered 
 in 182-2, by the Turks who were searching for 
 water in case they should have to resist a 
 siege. 
 
 Close to the Klepsydra are the grottos of 
 « Pan » and of (( A-pollo » , about which many 
 mythological tales are told; and at some little 
 distance farther on (under the Erechtheion, in 
 fact) is the ((Grotto of ilL^rauluH » , a 
 daughter of Kecrops, to whom with her two si- 
 sters was given by Athena the charge of a chest 
 in which Erechtheus was confined. Pandrossos, 
 one of the three sisters, alone obeyed the injunc- 
 tions of the Goddess in not opening the box, 
 and so escaped the fate of her two sisters, who- 
 having succumbed to their curi6sity, ventured 
 to peep in. There, instead of Erechtheus in the 
 flesh, they found a shake — he having been trans- 
 formed into that reptile— which began at once 
 to wriggle out of the box; and this so frighten-^ 
 ed them that they jumped over the rock and 
 were killed. 
 
 On tlie spot where the body of A^raulus was- 
 
— 37 — 
 
 picked up, a shrine was raised ofwliich some 
 remains may still be seen. 
 
 THE AREOPAGUS 
 
 Descending from the Acropolis and standing 
 on the Platform outside the Beule Gate, we And 
 ourselves face to face with the « Areopagus » , 
 or "Apeioc ndyoc; (literally the Hill of Ares 
 or Mars) a rocRy elevation known to us as 
 the spot upon which St. Paul was called upon 
 to tell the assembly of the God he worshipped. 
 
 In the earliest era of Grecian power, this was 
 the place where the Council of the Areopagiles 
 sat in the open air for the trial of murderers 
 only; but after the time of Solon it was used as 
 a more general Court of Justice. It is supposed 
 by most authorities to have got its name through 
 the story of Ares having been the first arraigned 
 upon it for the murder of Halirrhotios, but Eschy- 
 lus derives the name from the Amazons, the 
 daughters of Ares, who were said to have offer- 
 ed sacrifices to him upon that spot, upon gain- 
 ing possession of the hill when they were beseig- 
 ing Athens. 
 
 ■ A flight of steps cut in the rock may still be 
 seen, though in a ruined condition, leading to 
 the flat surface at the top where the sittings of 
 the Council were held. These steos, in fact, con- 
 
— 38 — 
 
 tinue to be the only means of ascending the hill. 
 Of the Tombs, Altars, and other monuments of 
 former ages, nothing now remains, except some 
 slight vestiges of an artificial platform and of 
 seats cut in the rock; and the spot is interesting 
 to us more for its Biblical associations than from 
 anything to be seen there in the present day. 
 The precipitous side to the north overlooked the 
 ancient « Agora » , or Market-place where the 
 people were wont to assemble ato hear and to 
 tell of some new thing», and it was probably 
 from that side of the Areopagus that St. Paul 
 addressed the Athenians in the words recorded 
 in the Acts of the Apostles. 
 
 There is a pool of dark coloured water in a 
 deep chasm on the north-east side of the hill, 
 about which various Mythological tales are told, 
 the one most generally received being that it 
 was the entrance to the Subterranean Sanctuary 
 of the « Semiia- » or Furies. 
 
 Not lar from the Areopagus are three other 
 hills to which some interest attaches. The first 
 to be mentioned is. 
 
 THE HILL OF THE NYMPHS 
 
 which is thus called only on the authority of an 
 inscription found on the rocks, no mention of it 
 having been made either by Pausahias or any 
 classical authors. 
 
— 39 - 
 
 The hill is on the west and slightly to the 
 north of the Areopagus, and on it stands the 
 Observatory, a modern building erected by Ba- 
 ron Sina, a rich merchant of Vienna, in 1842. 
 
 There is a lon^i, deep gorge to the west of 
 the Observatory, which is believed to be the 
 ancient « Bai-atliron » , into which the bo- 
 dies of malefactors were thrown after execution. 
 
 THE HILL OF THE PNYX 
 
 This hill is next to the one on which the 
 Observatory stands^ a little more to the south, 
 and on it are some very interesting remains. In 
 the earliest investigations of this spot, Dr. Cur- 
 tius came upon some ruins which he supposed 
 to be those of an open-air Temple dedicated to 
 Zeus of very ancient date, which was known to 
 have existed somewhere hereabouts. This idea, 
 however^ has since been shown to have been 
 erroneous, for the votive tablets found on the 
 spot with inscriptions to « The Siipi-eaie 
 Zeus » , which are now in the British Museum, 
 have been proved to be of much later date. What 
 these ruins really were, has never been disco- 
 vered, and no vestige of them now remains. 
 
 Traces of an immense artificial platform, sup- 
 ported by a polygonal wall of a semi-circular 
 shape, can, however, still be seen. This is gene- 
 
__ 40 — 
 
 rally considered to have been the « I*nyx »> 
 
 (hence the name given to the hill) where the 
 Athenians held their political assemblies, and at 
 the back of this platform, hewn out of the solid 
 rock, is the « iJema » , or Orator's Stage. Be- 
 hind the Bema, the rock forms a natural wall 
 thirteen feet in height, and on this elevation is a 
 second Terrace or Platform on which may be 
 seen a square block of rock which was undoub- 
 tedlj' an Altar dedicated to Zeus, used for the 
 sacrifice of a sucking pig to that God at the com- 
 mencement of the proceedings of the Council. 
 
 The polygonal wall opposite-wrongly describ- 
 ed by some as of Pelasgic construction — was 
 formerly of a much greater height than it is 
 now, so that the seats for the assembly sloped 
 upwards from the Bema, much in the same way 
 as in Grecian Theatres. The seats of the Pnyx 
 are computed to have been capable of contain- 
 ing 11,000, persons, but in no records is there 
 mention of more than 6,000. forming these as- 
 semblies. 
 
 One of the principal arguments in favour of 
 this having been the spot whore the « Eccle- 
 sia)) (supposed to have been instituted by So- 
 lon) held their sittings and where thuso fine 
 orations, so well known to all classical students, 
 were delivered, is the finding by Cx.ttling of the 
 inscription «nY9Ni» cut on a rock on the 
 northern side of tlie hill, which by the peculiar 
 
xiy 
 
— 41 — 
 
 form of the letters is proved to have been of 
 very early date. 
 
 There are still traces in the rock of steps lead- 
 ing down the hill in the direction of the road 
 which is known to have existed from the Agora 
 to the Pnyx between the Acropolis and the Areo- 
 pagus, forming another proof that this was the 
 site of the famous Ecclesia for all the require- 
 ments of which, the remains just described seem 
 to point very clearly. From the summit of the 
 hill is seen one of the best views of the Acropolis. 
 
 Behind the hill are some remains of ancient 
 houses and also of the town wall, which may be 
 traced at intervals for some distance in either 
 direction. 
 
 THE MOUSEION HILI^ 
 
 On the summit of this hill stands the « Mo- 
 nunnent of I*liiIopappos » , and on this 
 account it is sometimes called the Hill of Philo- 
 pappos. This monument was erected in memory 
 of Julius, Antiochus, Philopappos, grandson of 
 the last king of Kommagene in Asia Minor, who 
 was dethroned by Vespasian. He fled from his 
 own country and became an Athenian citizen, 
 endearing himself so much to his adopted coun- 
 trymen by his many acts of liberality that at his 
 
— 42 - 
 
 dead) this monument was raised. It is built of 
 Pentellic marble on an under structure of Pi- 
 raeus stone and is of a slightly concave form. 
 On it are the remains of some fine bits of sculp- 
 ture in niches, with Corinthian Pillastres be- 
 tween, over a sort of Frieze in bold Alto-relief, 
 of which a considerable portion is still intact. 
 
 The general view of Athens from this hill^ 
 with the Acropolis standing boldly forward, is 
 very fine. Beyond it, to the south east, can again 
 be traced vestiges of the ancient town wall. 
 
 On the north slope of the Mouseion hill are 
 three caves hewn in the rock, called the ((I*i'i- 
 son of Socrates » . Considerable doubt has 
 been thrown of late years upon the supposition 
 that the great man reall}' was confined here, but 
 as no other spot has been suggested as the more 
 probable place of his imprisonment, the honour 
 is still claimed for these caves of having been the 
 last home of this celebrated philosopher. 
 
 Farther down the Mouseion hill, in the de- 
 pression between it and the Pnyx, is what is 
 supposed to be the « Xonil* of 4:iiiioii: » and 
 though a doubt has been thi^own by some as to 
 the authenticity of this statement, owing to the 
 discovery of an almost illegible insci-iption which 
 they claim to have deciphered and In- it to have 
 proved the tomb to be of later date, there is 
 every reason to suppose that the original ideals 
 correct. At any rate tlio spot concurs with the 
 
XE 
 
description of Cimon's tomb given by Herodotus, 
 who says: — 
 
 «Cimon, the son of Mlltiades, was buried in 
 front of the Citadel beyond the road which cross- 
 es the ((Koile)) (or hollow way) and oppo- 
 site to him is buried his horse which had three 
 times gained him prizes at the Olympic games». 
 
 There most certainly is a tomb answering this 
 description, hewn in the rock and divided into 
 two compartments, the face of which can be 
 plainly seen. 
 
 On these several hills have been found certain 
 pear-shaped cavities, to the number of sixty or 
 more, outside the town wall, which have greatly 
 puzzled the learned in these matters, but they 
 have eventually come to the conclusion that the 
 holes were dug out and used for the storage of 
 wine and oil. Over one hundred tombs, too, have 
 been discovered in this part of Athens from time 
 to time. Indeed, the whole district is rich in an- 
 tique remains, though there is nothing further 
 to mention of any known importance. 
 
 THE ODEION OF HERODES ATTICUS 
 
 Opposite the hill of Philopappos and nestling, 
 as it were, under the Acropolis on the south 
 side, is the aOdeion of Hei-odes i%.tti- 
 
 cus)), built by him in the second century of 
 
— 44 — 
 
 the Christian era in memory of his wife « Re- 
 gilia)), by whose name it is occasionally 
 called. 
 
 This Theatre, or rather Odeion-which means 
 that it was a building primarily intended for 
 musical performances and distinguished from a 
 theatre by the fact of its being roofed over, is 
 thoroughly Roman both in the style of the build- 
 ing and in its interior arrangement. It is built 
 of stone and brick and was formerly faced with 
 marble. It was altogether on a large scale, as 
 there were twenty tiers of seats in the lower 
 part and nine or ten, or possibly more, in the 
 upper part, the whole Auditorium, which is 
 260 feet in diameter, having been capable of 
 holding six thousand persons. The stage was 
 1 16 feet in breadth. 
 
 The entire building, according to Pausanias, 
 was roofed over with cedar wood beautifully 
 carved, but how this roof was constructed must 
 ever remain a mystery, as no traces of it or of 
 how it was supported can now be seen, with the 
 exception of some holes in the wall in which 
 the beams may possibly have been fixed. 
 
 A niche near the eastern entrance contains 
 the statue of a Roman Magistrate and above tlie 
 western door is a tablet of white marble recor- 
 ding the heroic actions of Favier daring the 
 Turkish seige of 18?6. of the Facade of the 
 Odeion a considerable portion is sfill standino- 
 
XVT 
 
 '^$ i ' z*"*''!*^ 
 
— 45 - 
 
 as well as of the Stoa or Corridor which runs 
 the whole way from this building to the Thea- 
 tre of Dionysos. 
 
 There are unmistakable signs on the interior 
 of the Facade of there having been at some 
 former period, a serious conflagration in the 
 Odeion, and the probability is that when this 
 occurred, the roof was entirely destroyed. Hav- 
 ing been of wood, it would naturally burn 
 readily, and this would account for the utter 
 disappearance of all vestiges of it. 
 
 THE THEATRE OF DIONYSOS 
 
 ■ This Theatre will be found a little lower down 
 the (.(.Boulevard des Philhellenesy) , as the road is. 
 called that runs from the Piraeus Road right 
 round the outside of the Acropolis to the front 
 of the Palace. 
 
 As it is said that this building was capable of 
 accommodating 30,000 people^ it must have been 
 considerably larger than the Odeion, though it 
 does not appear to be so now from the fact that 
 only the lower portion of the seats are still to 
 be seen. The Theatre is semi-circular in form, 
 as is the case with almost all ancient Greek 
 Theatres, and is partly built and partly exda- 
 vated out of the rock. 
 
 It was first erected in the early days of Gre- 
 
_ 46 — 
 
 cian Art, and here the immortal works of Es- 
 chylus, Sophocles, Euripides, etc : were first 
 enacted, drawing thousands of enthusiastic spec- 
 tators ; but as time went on, the Theatre had 
 to be altered to suit the requirements of the 
 later Drama. Part, therefore, of what can now 
 be seen, more especially the Stage and the Or- 
 chestra, date in all probability from the Roman 
 period. This is judged to be the case from the 
 fact of their being closer to the body of the 
 Theatre than is usual in the more ancient struc- 
 tures of this class, and also from the general 
 conformation of this part of the building. 
 
 What is called the u Frieze » on the front 
 of the wall that supported the stage, also helps 
 to fix the date of this portion of the Theatre, for 
 .though most of the heads of the figures have 
 unfortunately disappeared, what remains of the 
 statuary is in a sufficiently good state of preser- 
 vation to show that it is mostly of the Roman 
 period. Amongst these figures, however, are se- 
 veral «Sileiise» which it will be seen -are of 
 a much older date, and they must have been 
 moved to their present position when the Frieze 
 was put up. This was probably done, and the 
 other alterations made, by Hadrian, who was a 
 great patron of the Drama. 
 
 The lower range of seats, which were reserv- 
 ed for the Priests, are particularly interesting 
 as they all bear inscriptions, which are more 
 
XVli 
 
- !n - 
 
 than usually legible because the Turks covered 
 them with plaster for. the purpose of obliterating 
 them, instead of which their work had the con- 
 trary effect of preserving them. The central 
 throne, for the use of the special Priest of Bac- 
 chus, (or Dionysos ) is more magnificent than the 
 others and is in an excellent state of preservation. 
 
 There was no roof to this Theatre, as was the 
 case with all ancient Theatres, the performan- 
 ces having taken place in the open air, as is 
 even now common in Greece in the summer wea- 
 ther, but if rain came on, shelter could be ob- 
 tained in the Stoa, or Corridor, which has been 
 already mentioned as connecting the Theatre of 
 Dionysos with the Odeion of Herodes. This Stoa, 
 called the ((Stoa oT Euinenia)) , a sort of 
 Colonnade, was 524 feet long and was divided 
 into two by a row of columns along the centre, 
 the roof having been of wood. It was probably 
 an addition made by Herodes at the time of the 
 erection of the Odeion, as it is precisely in the 
 same style as the FaQucle of that building. What 
 happened in earlier times in the event of a 
 downpour of rain, is not recorded ! 
 
 There seems little doubt that Attic Tragedy 
 was in the first instance performed in extem- 
 pore wooden Theatres, and it is said to have 
 been the fall of one of these, during the repre- 
 sentation of a Play by Pratinas, that led to the 
 construction of Theatres in stone. This one, de- 
 
— 48 — 
 
 dicated to Dionysos, is supposed to have been 
 the first erected after this misfortune— at any 
 rate in Athens. 
 
 THE SANCTUARY OF /IvSCULAPIUS 
 
 On the west side of the Theatre of Dionysos 
 behind the Stoa of Eumenia, can be seen some 
 of the foundations of the « Sanctuai-y of 
 ^Escuiapiiis » , which is supposed to have had 
 an institution for the treatment of the sick con- 
 nected with it. Behind these remains is a small 
 building which formerly served as a shelter to a 
 natural spring, but which was converted into a 
 Christian Chapel during the middle ages ; and 
 within it may still be seen (and tasted!) the 
 water as it issues from the rock. It is thought 
 that the water of this spring may possess some 
 medicinal properties, which, if known to the an- 
 cients, would account for the spot having been 
 selected for the erection of a hospital. Certainly 
 the water has a medicinal taste ! 
 
 THE MONUMENT OF THRASYLLUS 
 
 On the rock above the Theatre is a grotto now 
 dedicated to « Pan a j^- in il!^peIi6tiMsa» , and 
 
 in front of it are some remains of the « Mosm- 
 
— 49 - 
 
 niont of Tlii-asyll«s » , which was destroyed 
 by the Turks in 18:27. The Cavern itself was 
 probably the work of the Pelasgians, and we 
 learn from Plutarch that Niklas converted it 
 into a Shrine or Temple. Afterwards— about 320, 
 B. C— Thrasyllus again converted it into a Cho- 
 ragic Monument, and later still it served as a 
 Byzantine Chapel; so this little grotto has gone 
 through many vicissitudes. 
 
 The Facade was intact up to two centuries 
 ago. It consisted of a plain wall with three pil- 
 asters, above which was an architrave bearing 
 an inscription to the eftect that Thrasyllus was 
 a Prize winner. In the middle of the Architrave 
 were three steps and on the top of them was a 
 sitting figure clothed in a lion's skin, which has 
 been recognized as a statue of Oionysos. This 
 statue was taken to England by Lord Elgin and 
 is now in the British Museum. 
 
 The two Corinthian Columns which stand out 
 netir the top of the rock in front of the south 
 wall of the Acropolis, were also evidently used 
 to support Votive Tripods, but the history at- 
 tached to them is unknown. 
 
 A Sun-Dial may also be seen near this spot, 
 but the question of its antiquity and as to how 
 it came there, is equally unknown ; as is also 
 unfortunately the case with other fragmentary 
 remains in the immediate vicinity. In fact, the 
 whole of this side of the Acropolis is covered, in 
 
 - 4 
 
— 50 — 
 
 dire confusion, witli tlio remains orbuildings of 
 many distinct periods, among- wliicji arc the 
 foundations of tlic Sanctuary of (('rsiemis 
 and Isiw)). No part of tlie building, liowever, 
 is now standing and but little of its formation 
 can bo made out. Tliere is a large Byzantine 
 Cistern near this spot, but no particular inte- 
 rest is attached to it. 
 
 Among the ruins in this region should also 
 be mentioned the ((Odeion of Pericles » , 
 which is supposed to have stood under the south- 
 east corner of the Acropolis, near the Theatre 
 of Dionysos. 
 
 It is described as having been built originally 
 in imitation of the Tent of Xerxes, whatever 
 that may mean, but nothing is left of it to show 
 the style of tiie Architecture or the extent of the 
 building. It was burnt down during the wars 
 with the Romans, but restored shorlly after 
 their recognition as masters of the land. Of its 
 later vicissitudes and of its tlnal destruction, 
 little or nothing seems to be known. 
 
 There have been several proposals recently 
 to excavate the site of this Odoion, wliich lies 
 covered with a large quantity of debris from 
 the Acropolis, and doubtless some examination 
 of the spot will ere long be undertaken, when 
 many interesting discoveries maA- bo made. 
 
xsm 
 
 .V»^g|jg 
 
— ol _ 
 
 THE CHORAGIC MONUMENT 
 OF LYSICRATES, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 STREET OF TRIPODS 
 
 It is asserted that in ancient days^ a street led 
 from the Theatre of Dionysos to the town^ and 
 it heing an Athenian custom to name their 
 streets after the principal objects in them, this 
 one was called the « Street of Xripods » , 
 it being almost entirely taken up with monu- 
 mental erections to support the Tripods aM-arded 
 as prizes to the winners at the Dionysiac Games. 
 These Temple-like buildings were in many 
 cases adorned with master-pieces of Greek Art^ 
 among which was the ((Satyr)) of Praxiteles, 
 considered by him to have been one of his finest 
 works ; and we are told that the street of Tri- 
 pods was a favourite lounge with the people of 
 Athens in those by-gone daj^s when it existed 
 in its glory. 
 
 Not a vestige of this street, or even of the 
 roadway, now exists at the end near the Thea- 
 tre ; nor of anv of those memorial buildings, 
 which though so small must have been so beau- 
 tiful, except one known as the (( AtonMiment 
 of* Lysicrates n which is in a curiously good 
 state of preservation, considering the total disap- 
 pearance of all the others. 
 
 4* 
 
— 52 — 
 
 A little strocT, (-.Uled the a Rue de Uirony>, 
 tiirnin;^' out of the Boulevard des Philhellenes 
 just at the foot of the hill, leads directly to the 
 small open space in which this beautiful little 
 erection stands. The corresponding street run- 
 ning on from the other side of the c Platia » 
 towards the old part of the town, is still called 
 the Street of Tripods, which probably from this 
 spot bore off in the direction of the Theatre. 
 The monument of Thrasyllus, though also bear- 
 ing a Tripod, could not have been situated in 
 this street by any stretch of imagination. 
 
 Though a very small building, the Monument 
 of Lysicrates is one of the best preserved spe- 
 cimens of the Corinthian order of Architecture 
 in the whole of Greece. It is composed of a cir- 
 cular Colonnade, formed of six engaged Corin- 
 thian Columns on a quadrangular basement. The 
 intercolumniations were tilled in with marble 
 panels, which near the top were ornamented 
 with carvings in bas-relief, and as the Temple- 
 like building was never intended to be entered 
 but was only constructed as a support for the 
 Tripod won by Lysicrates at the Games, there 
 was originally no aperture in any part of it. La- 
 ter it became part of a Capuchin Convent and 
 was used, it is said, as a library, a veiy narrow 
 door having been made in one of the spaces 
 between the columns. Now it stands entirely 
 isolated, the convent having been pulled down. 
 
— 53 - 
 
 and three out of the six spaces where the mar- 
 ble panels originally were, have been filled in 
 with brick-work. 
 
 Above the columns is an Architi^ave of three 
 parts, and a Frieze adorned with sculpture of 
 which the subject, in very low relief but execu- 
 ted with great spirit and elegance, is the story 
 of « Oionysos and tlie Tyrrlieniaii Pi- 
 rates » , who had been turned by him into l)ol- 
 phins. Above the Architrave is a Cupola, formed 
 out of a single block of marble, in the centre of 
 which rises a vigorously carved ornament which 
 originalh- supported a triangular slab of marble 
 on which was placed the Tripod. 
 
 On the south-east side of the monument just 
 above the columnsjs an inscription— now scarce- 
 ly decipherable — which records that : — « Ly- 
 sicrates, son of Lysitheides of Kikoena, was Cho- 
 ragos when the Tribe Acamantis gained the vic- 
 tory with a chorus of boys ; Theon played the 
 Flute; Lysiades, an Athenian, trained the Choir; 
 Eusenetos was Archon». The latter name enables 
 us to fix the date of the erection of the monu- 
 ment at 335. B. C or thereabouts. 
 
 This little building, which possesses so much 
 beauty on a small scale, is popularly called the 
 (( Lantern of Diog:enes » , but how it gain- 
 ed this misnomer is unknown — probably only 
 on account of its shape and size. 
 
THE ARCH OF HADRIAN 
 
 Passing clown the street called <.(. Hadrian 
 Street » almost at right angles to the Rue de 
 Biron, we find ourselves again in the Boule- 
 vard des Philhellenes, and immediately opposite 
 to the « :%.rcli of Hadrian » which, as the 
 name implies, is a work of the Roman period, 
 and if not erected by Hadrian himself was, at 
 any rate, not of a later date than his successor. 
 
 It occupies an isolated position at the side of 
 the Boulevard des Philhellenes and although a 
 roadway passes under it, now only used as a 
 foot-path but which formerly led to the banks 
 of the iiissos, it seems a meaningless object 
 as it stands with its present surroundings. Its 
 exposed situation doubtless detracts from any 
 beauty it may be thought to possess, but under 
 no circumstances can it ever have been a great 
 work of art. Moreover, as it does not appear to 
 have been an entrance to the Peribolus of the 
 Temple of Zeus — as was imagined by some of 
 the earlier explorers of the Antiquities of Athens 
 — or to any other enclosure, nor to have had 
 any connection with any wall, it must havo been 
 always more or less isolated. It is therefore sup- 
 posed to have been a soi't of Triumphal Arch to 
 mark the boundary between ancient Alliens, 
 called the ((C:ity of* Tiioi^ou^^)) , and the 
 
XIX 
 
 
00 
 
 newer quarter which obtained the name of 
 « HacIi*iaiio[>oIitg » . 
 
 The inscriptions that the Arch bears^ point 
 to this conclusion; lor the literal translation of 
 the one on the frieze of the Architrave of the 
 north-west front is: — «This is the Athens of 
 Theseus, the first cityw, while that on the other 
 side runs: — ((This is the city of Hadrian and 
 not of Theseus ». 
 
 The gateway, which is about twenty feet wide, 
 is between two square piers each of which are 
 about fifteen feet in width. In front of these for- 
 merly stood two Columns of the Corinthian or- 
 der on either side, while the Arch itself springs 
 from two Composite Pilasters; the two ends of 
 the erection being adorned with two others of 
 the same order. Above this is a sort of second 
 story/ or (( Attica », consisting of four small Co- 
 riathian Columns with a Pediment over the two 
 centre ones. Both sides of the Arch are similar. 
 
 The arch itself is very low in proportion to 
 its width and the general effect of it is greatly 
 marred by the way it cuts into the Architrave. 
 Indeed the whole structure must have had a 
 mean and poor appearance when contrasted 
 with the grandeur of the Temple of Zeus in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, when that magnifi- 
 cent building was standing in its entierty. 
 
— 5() — 
 
 THE GROUNDS OF THE ZAPPEION 
 
 The space on the inner side of the vVrch of 
 Hadrian, to the left of tlie road tliat runs under 
 it, is now laid out as a garden surrounding the 
 modern Exhibition building, called the « i^ap- 
 peion )) , 
 
 Within this enclosure have recently been dis- 
 covered the foundations of some Roman Villas 
 and Baths, of which the Mosaic Pavement is in 
 many instances wonderfully perfect. One bit of 
 tessellated pavement, enclosed by a low aa all, is 
 especially worthy of notice, for it looks as fresh 
 as if it had been laid down but a year or two 
 ago. Several marble chairs and other relics have 
 been dug up in the process of laying out these 
 grounds, which may be seen placed in diflferent 
 parts of the gardens. These show that, in Roman 
 times, this was tlie fashionable quarter of the 
 town. 
 
 THE OLYMPEION or TEMPLE OP ZEIS 
 
 This magnificent erection, better known as 
 the ((Temple oi' .lupittM- Olyiiipiis » — 
 
 which stands in a large S(]unrc enclosure to the 
 right of these gardens, immediaiely after pass- 
 ing through the Arch of Hadrian — was, with 
 
XX 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■Ifl 
 
 
 M 
 
 ••w. 
 
 4 *. 
 
 
 •.•»i.>'j^' 
 
;yi 
 
 the exception of the Temple of « A.rtomis » 
 (Diana) at Ephesus, the largest on record of the 
 dipteral construction. It Axas built on the site of 
 a very ancient temple dedicated to Zeus^ which 
 tradition carries back to the fabulous times of 
 Deucalion. It must, at any rate, have been of a 
 very early date, for the Temple which super- 
 seded it of which the remains left to us, though 
 fine as far as tliey go, give but a slight idea of 
 its former grandeur, was itself begun by Pisis- 
 tratus during the sixth century before the Christ- 
 ian era. It was, however, left unfinished by 
 him and, although some additions were made to 
 it by Antiochus Epiphanes and perhaps also by 
 Augustus, it was not till Hadrian's time that the 
 building was finally completed— about the j^ear 
 130. A. D. 
 
 The Olympeion was Dipteros decastylos—ihut 
 is, having ten columns across the two ends and 
 a double row at the sides. Of the latter, there 
 were twenty counting the corner ones, and at 
 both ends there was a triple range, not reckon- 
 ing the four between the Antce at each end, 
 w-hich formed a fourth row. The total number 
 of columns, therefore, was J 24. These were of 
 the Corinthian Order, about fifty- seven feet in 
 height, including the Capital and Base, and six 
 feet or more in diameter. 
 
 Only fifteen of the columns now remain stand- 
 ing, of which the thirteen, in a block together, 
 
— 58 — 
 
 formed the .south-east corner of the 'I'uinplc. The 
 other two, which arc (juite isolated, hdowjcd to 
 the inner row of the south side, and between 
 them is one lying on the yround wliicli was 
 thrown down by an earthquake only in iHTj^'. It 
 will be seen that the column was scarcely dis- 
 placed in the fall, each of the vast drums of solid 
 marble being shuffled under one another in the 
 same order as when standing; and from this, 
 lying there as a fallen monarch, some idea of 
 the magnitude of the whole structure, which 
 was described by Aristotle as a aWoi'l; of des- 
 potic gj-andeuT)), can be gained. 
 
 Most of the columns that remain erect have 
 the Epistyle, or portion of the Arcliitrave be- 
 longing to them fairly preserved, but beyond 
 this, no part of the ornamentation of the Tem- 
 ple can now be seen. It seems to have stood 
 exactly in the centre of a Peribolus, the north 
 wall of which was only discovered during the 
 excavations of 1861. The dimensions of this en- 
 closure were then found to be 2-23. yards wide, 
 which agrees with the description of the ground 
 given by Pausanias, who states that it w,is about 
 four Stades in circumference. 
 
 Within the Temple was a large statue of Zeus 
 in ivory and gold, but by whom executed seems 
 to be a matter of doubt. There ai-e also known 
 to have been several statues phu^ed in dili'erent 
 parts of the peribolus, among which were five 
 
OVI — 
 
 of the Emperor Hadrian, one of them having 
 been colossal. The rest were busts and portrait 
 statues of men of his time, of more or less re- 
 nown. That there were other statues in the 
 place of a much earlier date, as well as those 
 mentioned, is proved by several bases and pedes- 
 tals that have been found there bearing dedi- 
 catory inscriptions, but nothing more is known 
 of them. >,'or is anything certainly known about 
 The interior of the Temple itself as to its forma- 
 tion or its decorations and ornamentation ; but 
 it is surmised that the Cella was divided into 
 TWO parts, as was always, or almost always, the 
 case in Grecian Temples, and that it had other 
 columns in the interior to support the roof, but 
 of what order of architecture these were, there 
 is nothing to show. 
 
 It is a curious fact that the history of the 
 Olympeion should be shrouded in such absolute 
 mystery as it is and that the remains of it should 
 be so scanty, while other buildings of a much 
 older date and which have been more exposed 
 to the vicissitudes of war— as, for instance, the 
 Parthenon and the Theseion — should now be 
 found in a condition so much more perfect. But 
 so it is, and no cause can be assigned for this 
 anomaly. 
 
 A handsome new road, called the (.(.Boulevard 
 
— GO - 
 
 Olgai^, leads froni the BouleKard cles Pliilhel- 
 It'iies round the grounds of tlie Zappeion, down to 
 the banks of the river Ilissos, of ancient renown 
 — now unfortunately dry except in very rainy 
 weather when a little stream may be seen trick- 
 ling' down the middle of the old water-course. 
 
 Till quite lately a small Temple of the Ionic 
 Order, supposed to have been dedicated to a De- 
 meter », stood somew'here near the river, but 
 it was pulled down for modern improvements 
 and no traces of it now remain, nor of any other 
 ancient buildings at this spot or in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood. 
 
 The Boulevard Olga continues along the side 
 of the llissos till it meets the (iliue d'Herodc At- 
 tiqite->\ a pretty road, bordered with the grace- 
 ful Pepper trees, which runs from the Kephissia 
 Road behind the Palace gardens to the banks of 
 the river. At this juncture a modern stone 
 bridge has been built across the water cour*e, 
 the road over which leads direct to the « Sta- 
 dion » . It was erected on the site of an anci- 
 ent bridge which was destroyed by the Turks 
 onlv in the vear J 778. 
 
 THE STADION 
 
 This was appropriated in am-icnt rimes to the 
 Panathenean games, the name Stadion having 
 been given to it on account of its length, which 
 
— 61 — 
 
 was exactly the measured distance for certain 
 races and other sports held upon these occasions. 
 This particular length was first fixed by Hercu- 
 les for the races at Olympia, and afterwards it 
 became a standard measure in Greece. 
 
 The Stadion was originally laid out by Ly- 
 Rourgos, about 350. B. C. who took advantage 
 of the natural formation of the ground at this 
 spot and constructed the Theatre or Recreation 
 ground between two hills, utilizing the two 
 slopes for the usual tiers of seats. Remains of the 
 old work are still plainly visible. At a later pe- 
 riod — about 140. A. D. — the place was consider- 
 ablj' improved b}' Herodes Atticus, who had the 
 seats faced with Pentelic marble and the whole 
 building restored and beautified. The marble 
 was iniquitously removed and burnt for lime du- 
 ring the dark ages and not a vestige of it now 
 remains. 
 
 The second restoration which is now being 
 carried out for the Olympic games to be held 
 there in 1896, will again alter the condition of 
 the place devoted to ancient sports. The general 
 formation of the ground with the slopes on either 
 side, will, of course, not be interfered with and 
 it is to be hoped that the preparations will bo 
 carried out in such a manner that visitors will 
 be enabled to form some idea of the aspect of 
 the place in olden times, when crowded with 
 spectators. 
 
— 02 - 
 
 It is supposed that at the time of Lylcourgos, 
 there were at least sixty rows of seats, capable 
 of accommodating 00,000 spectators, to which 
 access was gained b}- flights of steps at inter- 
 vals, as in the Odeion and the Theatre of Diony- 
 sos. It is thought that there may have been a 
 sort of covered corridoi' at the upper part of the 
 semicircular end, where the superior or re- 
 served seats were evidently placed, for This spot 
 commanded a view of the whole course. A low 
 Avall of marble separated the course from the 
 first or bottom row of seats, which were chairs 
 or thrones like those in the Theatre of Dionysos. 
 
 A sort of cave or underground passage which 
 will be seen near the end of the Stadion on the 
 east side, is supposed to have been dug out when 
 the Grecian games were superseded by those of 
 the Romans, upon which occasions some means 
 of introducing with safety the fierce beasts for 
 the combats of the Gladiators was needed. 
 
 On the hills on either side of the Sradion, 
 some few ruins of anti(|ue constructions can be 
 traced. Those on the easiern hill are remains of 
 a Temple erected by Herodes Atticus to « Xy- 
 ehe)), the Goddess of the lown, and those on 
 the western hill are said b\- some to be frag- 
 ments of the tomb of « lltMMxles » . This sup- 
 position is, however, not auTlienlicated and but 
 
_ 113 — 
 
 little interest attaches to such verv slio'ht and 
 doubtful i^emains. 
 
 It is nevertheless worth a walk to the top of 
 these slopes to look at the comprehensive view 
 of the Acropolis and its surrounding hills, with 
 the Olvmpeion^ the Arch of Hadrian, etc : which 
 from this point is very fine and most pictures- 
 que, especially just at the hour of sunset. 
 
 RECENT E X C A A^ A T I X S 
 
 A'EAR THE 
 
 A R E P A G U S 
 
 AVe must now retrace our steps along the 
 Boulevard des PJiilhellenes, which after passing 
 the turning that leads up to the Acropolis, will 
 be found to bear to the right, running round the 
 base of the Areopagus. Just behind this eminence 
 and opposite to the Pnyx, Ave come upon the 
 most recent excavations undertaken by the Ger- 
 man school of Archaeology under the superin- 
 tendance of Dr. Dorpfeld. 
 
 They extend for some distance on the right 
 hand side of the road and not much can be made 
 out of the chaos of ruins at present, by the unini- 
 tiated. Dr. DiJrpfeld, however, claims to have 
 found at this spot the famous ((Eniiea-l-irom- 
 iios)), or nine headed Fountain mentioned by 
 classical authors. Various opinions have been 
 
_ t;/i _ 
 
 put forward at diiferent times as to iho exact 
 whereabouts of tliis fountain, and as to whether 
 it was erected over a natural sprini^ at the spot, 
 or whether the water was brought from the 
 Ilissos by an Aqueduct. Further discussions will 
 doubtless follow Dr. Di3rpfeld's discovery be- 
 tween the several schools, when more light rnay 
 be thrown on the subject; but in the mean time 
 there is not much to interest the casual visitor 
 to Athens in anvthina; that can be seen amonsr 
 these ruins as yet. 
 
 The excavations were commenced and will be 
 carried out in accordance with the wish of Dr. 
 Schliemann, as expressed in his AVili. Before his 
 death, the ground had not been opened out at all 
 in this direction, but it was always his opinion 
 that remains of the ancient city of Athens would 
 be found here. 
 
 THE THESEIOX 
 
 Continuing our steps for a short distance 
 along the Boulevard we come upon the so-called 
 « Tlieseioii )) , a Doric Temple standing in 
 an open space on a slight elevation to the right 
 of the road, above a garden which lias lardy 
 been laid out on the slope. 
 
 The name by which it is generally knuwn was 
 hrst given to this Temple by Habin, a .lesuit, 
 
XXE 
 
- 65 - 
 
 who wrote about Atliens in the year 1572, but 
 he does not seem to have had any solid founda- 
 tion on which to base his opinion. No doubt as- 
 to tlie authenticity of the name arose, however"^ 
 till 1838 when the question was disputed by 
 Ludwig Ross, whose view of the matter has now 
 been generally accepted in so far as the dis- 
 proval of Babin's theory. But it is more difficult 
 to determine the affirmative side of the question 
 and to say to what divinity the Temple under 
 discussion was dedicated, or to fix the site of 
 the real Theseion which, without doubt, did 
 exist once; as it is mentioned by Pausanias as 
 having been erected at the close of the Persian 
 war when the bones, of Theseus were brought to 
 Athens from the island of Syros by Cimon. 
 
 In whatever way this matter may eventually 
 be decided, there can be no hesitation in saying 
 in the mean time that the so-called Theseion is 
 of great antiquity, and that it is one of the 
 most perfectly preserved monuments of ancient 
 Greece, not only in Athens but in the whole of 
 the country. 
 
 It is of the Doric order of architecture of the 
 style technically called Hexastylos Peripteros — 
 that is, that it has six columns at each end, and 
 a Colonnade all round. There are thirteen co- 
 lumns at the sides counting the corner ones, 
 which makes in all thirty-four, all of which are 
 still standing though the drums of some of them 
 
— 66 — 
 
 have been sliiftod out of the perpendicular by 
 earthquakes. The walls of the Colla are also 
 intact, but the roof lias fallen in, except the por- 
 tion over the east Portico. 
 
 It is built entirely of Pentelic marble which, 
 in the course of the two thousand jears that it 
 has been exposed to I he elements, lias taken a 
 beautiful warm brown colour, and standing out 
 grandly as it does on the aColonus Agorceusr), 
 as the eminence is called, the Temple is an ob- 
 ject worthy of our highest admiration. Although 
 it is not nearly so large as the Parthenon, nor 
 so richly decorated as was the Ereclitheion, it 
 is considered to have l)een nearly equal to them 
 in architectural grandeur. 
 
 Besides^ it was not by any means destitute of 
 ornament. There was a Frieze with sculptured 
 reliefs on the exterior walls of the cella in the 
 same position as the Frieze of the Parthenon, 
 only in this instance it was not all round, but 
 only on the east and west ends. That of the for- 
 mer is supposed to represent the contest between 
 the Athenians and the Thracians;, and that of 
 the west end, the battles of the Lapithfc Avitli 
 the Centaurs. All the reliefs ai-c, unfortunately 
 much disfigured. 
 
 There was also the regular Doric Frieze of 
 Trigljphs and Metopes running entirely round 
 the exterior of the Colonnade, the Metopes at 
 the two ends and- a few of those at the sides 
 
— 67 - 
 
 having been also adorned with sculptured reliefs. 
 These seem to have represented the achieve- 
 ments of Hercules and Theseus, which pro- 
 bably tirst gave rise to the idea that the Temple 
 must have been dedicated to Theseus ; but as 
 these two heroes waged war conjointly against 
 the Amazons, those traditional beings might 
 equally well have been the recipients of the ho- 
 nour. All the Metopes are in so delapidated a 
 condition that the subjects of the representations 
 are almost unrecognisable ; and about fifty of 
 them appear never 'to have had any sculptured 
 decoration at all, though possibly they may have 
 been painted. 
 
 The group of statues in the eastern Pediment 
 is now entirely gone and it seems doubtful if 
 the western Pediment ever had any at all, so no 
 clue can be obtained through them as to the de- 
 dication of the Temple. 
 
 The side walls of the Cella are prolonged at 
 each end and have two columns between them, 
 thus forming a vestibule, or rather, two vesti- 
 bules, the one at the east end, called the aPro- 
 naosy>, being of a much greater depth than the 
 other one. Upon the conversion of the Theseion 
 (for so we must continue to call it) into a Christ- 
 ian church, the two columns and the back 
 wall of the Pronaos were removed to make room 
 for the Apse, and a modern wall now stands in 
 its place. 
 
 5» 
 
— r,8 — 
 
 or the original interior decoration of this Tem- 
 ple not much is known; and as the ground of 
 the whole building is now covered with debris, 
 but few conjectures can be formed as to its 
 aspect in days gone by. 
 
 The key of the wooden door b}^ which visitors 
 can enter, is kept by the guardian, who lives in 
 a shed close b}^, and who will accompany any 
 one who desires it into the building upon the 
 receipt of a few coppers. 
 
 THE STOA OF THE GIANTS 
 
 From the hill on which the Theseion stands, 
 and looking from the east end of the Temple 
 over the confused mass of small streets that lie 
 below, may be discerned two or three statues 
 and other remains in what looks like a court 
 among the houses. This bit of ruin is popularly 
 known as the « Stoa of" tlio Gi»»ts)). To 
 reach it, the street at the base of the hill ('Quoc 
 'Aopicivou) to the right, running parallel to the 
 railway, must be followed a short disranco, and 
 then the second turning to the right must be 
 taken. The ruins, which lie considerably belo^^■ 
 the present surface of the ground, will easily be 
 found as. they have laicly been laid open to 
 view, a low wall and railing having been placed 
 round the s|)ace on which tliev were discovered. 
 
— 69 — 
 
 It is not known to what building tliese remains 
 originally belonged, the present name being 
 quite a fictitious one, having accrued to them 
 simply from the three (nAtlanlesy) (male figures 
 answering to the female Caryatides) of gigantic 
 size which may still be seen on the spot. These 
 figures are well executed and are evidently of 
 an earlier date than the rest of the remains which 
 are of a very rude and imperfect description. 
 
 THE STOA OF ATTALOS 
 
 This ruin, which was formerly called the 
 « Gymnasium of Ptolemy » and in all 
 
 probability formed a portion of the eastern 
 boundary of the ancient nKerameikos markety>, 
 lies also in a hollow far down below the present 
 surface of the ground. It is close to the Stoa of 
 the Giants, but to reach it, visitors must retrace 
 their steps a little way to where the road forms 
 a fork with another street, in which a door 
 leading to these remains will be found. Doubtless 
 this Stoa will also shortly be opened out, but in 
 the mean time admission can be obtained by ap- 
 plication to the custodian and the payment of a 
 fee of half a drachma. 
 
 The original building was erected about 150. 
 B. C. and was used as a hall of merchandize or, 
 in fact, as a sort of covered market. It was of two 
 
— 70 — 
 
 stories, each being divided into a series of rooms 
 of unequal size. It is supposed that the Colon- 
 nade originally consisted of an outer row of 
 Forty-four Doric Columns, with an inner row 
 of Twenty-two Ionic Columns, but of these none 
 now remain in position and but few traces of 
 them have been discovered, though the ground 
 is strewed with fragments of sculpture, bits of 
 marble with inscriptions, etc. It is probable that 
 further investigations of this spot will be made 
 some day, but these things are a work of time, 
 and great expense attends the disclosure of what 
 has lain for so many centuries buried under the 
 earth to a depth of some thirty or forty feet. 
 
 THE MARKET GATE. 
 
 Following the street ('086c noiKiAnc; crossing 
 the south end of the Stoa of Attalos, we come 
 almost immediately to the « Mai-Uot (>ato » , 
 which was formerly the entrance to the « Ro- 
 man Agora)), or ((Oil Mavkot » , by 
 which latter name it is no^^' more commonly 
 known. The gate stands in the centre of a small 
 open space, at present entirely surrounded by 
 houses, which was of course originally not the 
 case. These modern houses are said to have been 
 doomed for s(jme time past and it is to be hoped 
 
xxn 
 
— 71 — 
 
 that they \vill be pulled down ere long, as the 
 excavations in this part of #ie town progress. 
 
 The Gate, or rather the Portico of the Gate, 
 which is all that remains of it no\v, the front of 
 which faces the west, is composed of four Doric 
 columns, the distance between the two in the 
 centre being double that of the others— a central 
 carriage road being thus formed, with two side 
 waliis for foot passengers. Behind these columns, 
 which are still standing, was a wall in which 
 was the gate itself, Supportod by certainly two 
 and perhaps four other columns, the whole 
 structure being connected by an Architrave with 
 Triglyphs and Metopes of which portions still 
 remain, as well as of the Pediment, which was 
 unadorned with sculpture. 
 
 The gate is in many respects an object worthy 
 of admiration now, and must have been more 
 so when not disconnected, as at present, with 
 the market place, to which it served as an en- 
 trance, but it is not so beautiful as many of the 
 other relics of antiquity in Athens. Although of 
 the « Doric » order of architecture, it is of the 
 Roman period, as is proved by the proportions 
 of the columns, which are taller and more slen- 
 der than those of the Greek Doric: and this dif- 
 ference in itself takes away the impression of 
 solid and simple grandeur imparted by all monu- 
 ments of early Grecian Art. 
 
THE ROM/W\ OR NEW AGr)llA 
 
 OR 
 
 01 Iv MARKET 
 
 Till (|uite recently, this scries of buildings, to 
 which the i^ate just described formed the prin- 
 cipal approach, existed only as a memory, but 
 the excavations of the year 1891, which have 
 been pushed on very vigoroush' in this quarter 
 of the town by the CIreek Archa'ological society, 
 have gradually revealed the whole of these very 
 interesting relics. Interesting especially as show- 
 ing to us of these later days, one of the prin- 
 cipal haunts of men at the beginnini; of the 
 Christian Era, and as giving us some idea of the 
 ordinary life of the time when St. Paul wandered 
 among the people of Athens and declared the 
 ((Unknown God» to them. 
 
 Rows upon rows of columns have been unearih- 
 ed, mostly unfortunately with their tops broken 
 off, with no visible connection between them, 
 but it is supposed that here may still be disco- 
 vered, in process of tiuie, besides the Oil and 
 vSalt market itself, some of the other as yet 
 unfound buildings mentioned by idassicalautluirs. 
 Some curious iSyzantine vases of a verv large 
 size have been dug up besides other treasures 
 but unfortunately most of them have been bro- 
 ken in the proiH'ss of excavation. 
 
xxfn 
 
— 73 — 
 
 In this; region, which in lact covers a large 
 portion of the old part of the city, it is not un- 
 likely, if the investigations are carried on far 
 enough, that many more relics ma}- be found 
 both of ancient Grecian and of Roman times. Of 
 The latter perhaps more than of the former, if 
 one may judge by the portions of structures that 
 have already been revealed. 
 
 In Grecian cities, the Market place, or Agora, 
 was the centre both of political and of social life, 
 and it usually became the seat not only of the 
 finest buildings but also of the principal monu- 
 ments erected in honour of public men; and on 
 this account considerable interest is attached to 
 any remains of this class. 
 
 The business of the market itself was carried 
 on in booths or stalls— each trade having its al- 
 lotted place, called a «Circle», the stalls having 
 apparently been arranged in a ring— but of these, 
 of course, no traces remain. The laws respecting 
 the Agora appear to have been very strict, and 
 any misrepresentations either on the part of 
 the seller or of the buyer, were punishable of- 
 fences. The « A-goranomi » — men appointed as 
 overseers — had the power of enforcing all the 
 laws and regulations that were liiid down for 
 the benefit of the community, of which dealing 
 for ready money appears to have been one. 
 
THE TOWER OF THE WINDS 
 
 This building faces the Propyhj^um of tlio Ro- 
 man- Agora, just described, and is in a wonder- 
 fully good state of preservation. It should more 
 properly be called the « Horoiogion of An- 
 (Iroiiicos l4.yn*lieste»»)) , it having been 
 built by him and fitted with a nnjst ingenious 
 water clock, during the last century before the 
 Christian era. 
 
 It is a marble tower of octagonal form, with 
 Porticoes on the north-east and north-west fa- 
 ces, each supported by two Corinthian columns 
 of which the Capitals lie on the ground close by; 
 and it has on each of its eight sides a relief per- 
 sonating the wind which blows from the quarter 
 that it faced. These sculptured reliefs are of a 
 bold but somewhat rude style and not altogether 
 very artistic. The figures are all winged and 
 are more or less clothed, their character beinsr 
 typified by the objects they bear. 
 
 Thus the relief opposite the north represents 
 « Boi-eas n , with a conch in his hands to ty- 
 pify the noise he is supposed to make. On the 
 north-east is « Kaikias)) — an old man shak- 
 ing hail stones out of a shield ; on the east is 
 « Apeliotes)) , a young man bearing corn and 
 fruit; and on the south-east is « Kuvos » — an 
 old man wrapped in a mantle to proiect him 
 from the coming i-ain. South being a rainy wind, 
 
sxrr 
 
is represented by « iVotos » , emptying a jar of 
 Avater; south-west by (d.ips)) with part of a 
 ship in his hand— probably meaning that this is 
 a favourable wind for bringing ships into the 
 Port of the Pirpeus. The west bears a figure of 
 « Zepliyi>us » , with his mantle filled with 
 flowers, by far the most graceful of the figures 
 on these reliefs; and on the north-west is « Ski- 
 I'on » , bearing a vase — probably of plenty. 
 
 Under each of the reliefs was a Sun-dial, and 
 on the top of the tower there was originally a 
 marble pedestal on which stood a bronze Tri- 
 ton, so constructed as to turn with the wind and 
 point to the quarter from which it blew with a 
 wand that he held in his outstretched hand — in 
 fact, a Weather-Cock. 
 
 But by far the most curious and interesting 
 thing in this building must have been its water 
 clock, of which the mechanism cannot now be 
 ascertained, though marks and grooves may be 
 seen in the interior on the walls and on the 
 floor, which doubtless had to do with its con- 
 struction. Therefore, in this building the hour 
 was indicated both by day and night, as well as 
 the quarter from which the wind blew. The 
 water that worked the clock was according to 
 some authorities, supplied by an Aqueduct from 
 the Klepsydra well on the Acropolis, and some 
 arches still standing near the Tower of the 
 winds are supposed by them to be a portion Of 
 
_ 70 _ 
 
 this aqueduct. This I'act is, however, disputed by 
 otliers who maintain that the water for the 
 clock was conducted under ground; and the 
 absence of any indiciitions, either outside or in- 
 side, of the introduction of water into the up^jer 
 part of the building, seems to support this theory. 
 Besides which, the arches which are supposed 
 to have formed a part of the aqueduct show even 
 greater signs of the decadence of art than does 
 the Tower itself, and are in all probability of a 
 later date. 
 
 THE GYMNASIUM OF HADRIAN 
 
 Walking a little way down aEuh(s s/reef», 
 at the extreme end of which stands the Tower 
 of the AMnds, we come to this ancient building 
 or rather series of buildings, by some called 
 the « Pantheon of I-Iacli*i»n » . Access is 
 gained to the large enclosure, within which lie 
 these ruins, by a wooden door in a portion of 
 the old surrounding wall which will be easily 
 noted. There an old man usually sits hoping for 
 some small gratuity in return for the small 
 amount of information he is able to give, but no 
 regular charge is made for the entrance. 
 
 It is impossible now to make out the original 
 plan of the whole of this immense series of 
 buildings, but the one neai- ihe centre of the 
 
XXE 
 
— t I 
 
 open space, which is in a better state of preser- 
 vation than the others, seems to have been a 
 Bath or Fountain, built in the form of a cross 
 with semicircular ends. Some of the columns 
 with which it was adorned are still standing and 
 a good deal of the Mosaic pavement is intact. 
 
 The rest of the remains, consisting of the foun- 
 dations of walls, the bases of columns, etc, are 
 in too ruinous a condition to give any idea of 
 the structures to which they belonged. 
 
 The Pantheon or Gymnasium of Hadrian, 
 Avhichever may be its correct nomenclature, is 
 supposed to have formed a part of the Roman or 
 New Agora and it is not unlikely that when the 
 excavations that are still going on are more ad- 
 vanced, it may be possible to give a more defi- 
 nite and detailed account of many of the build- 
 ings in this neighbourhood about which consi- 
 derable doubt still exists ; and also that others 
 mentioned by Pausanias and many earlier au- 
 thors may be brought to light — as for instance, 
 The (( Stoa Oai^ileius » ,-the « I*oecilt» » ,etc. 
 
 THE STOA OF HADRIAN 
 
 The entrance to the Pantheon of Hadrian was 
 formerly on the western side of the enclosure, 
 but as there is now no door in the wall against 
 which all sorts of debris has been piled up, visit- 
 
— 78 — 
 
 ors must pass round outside the enclosure to 
 see the western Facade known .is the « stoa 
 of lladriitn » . Their way lies through the 
 (( ^'ativo liaxrtai' » — a narrow street of 
 booths where the national characteristic slippers 
 and other leather goods are made, and various 
 stufl's of native manufacture are sold — which 
 runs from Eolus Street along the north side of 
 the enclosure. At the end of this little street and 
 turning round to the left past an old Turkish 
 Mos^que, now used as a Barrack, they will find 
 themselves close to the Stoa, at the north end. 
 
 The portion of this Stoa now standing is adorn- 
 ed with seven columns of the Corinthian order, 
 each standing on its own base, but- connected at 
 the top b\' an Architrave of the kind proper to 
 that order ol' architecture, but lower than is 
 usual in Rom.ai structures in proportion to the 
 height of the columns, which is upwards of eight 
 iind twenty feet. An eighth column, which 
 stands. out in front of the others was, with the 
 bit of wall adjoining it^ part of a Portico con- 
 sisting of four columns, which formed the prin- 
 cipal Gatewiiy or entrance to the enclosure. 
 
XXVT 
 
 
 iii'tf' 
 
 
 V 
 
 W |i" 
 
 5 ' 
 
 
 "W 
 
 ^ •; i> 
 
 I ^:.^-^-' 
 
 
 
— 79 — 
 THE DIPYLOX 
 
 AND 
 
 THE KKRAMEIKOS, or STREET OF TOMBS 
 
 Not far fruin the Tlieseion, on the other side 
 of the railway, lie the remains of the ((Oipy- 
 lon » or « Double Gale » , and beyond it 
 the ancient cemetery known as the ((Kera- 
 nieiUos n or sometimes as the <( Street of 
 Tonibts)); for, as is generally known^ the an- 
 cients used to inter their dead at the sides of the 
 roads without the city walls, and not in a con- 
 secrated ground set apart for the purpose, as is 
 the case in modern'-times in all countries. 
 
 The visitor, on passing through an iron gate- 
 way which is just off the road to the right ')^ 
 will find himself on an elevated piece of ground 
 overlooking a quantity of massive remains of 
 walls which cross and intersect each other in 
 such a manner as to make it very difllcult to 
 determine the relation that they severally bore 
 to the buildings that are known to have existed 
 here. The spot where the Double Gate stood^ 
 which formed the principal entrance to the an- 
 cient city is, however, pretty clearly defined. The 
 
 1) Since the above Avas wj'ittcn, both this gate and tlic one by wliicii exit 
 was made on to the Piraeus Road, have been bricUed up, Kntrance can now, 
 therefore, be obtained only by a gate at tlic side of tlie KcrameiSios, to which 
 access is i^-ained by a turning ofl' llie Piraeus Road, almost opposite to tlic road 
 to Elcusis. 
 
— 80 — 
 
 town wall, whicli c.ni be traced at intervals 
 round the south and west of Athens, w.is at this 
 spot strongly fortified ; and the inner gate is 
 described as having had a tower on either side of 
 it. The outer gate was ,i repetition of the same 
 kind of structure, and the two were connected 
 by walls. The space between the two walls 
 formed a Court and outer ward ; and there were 
 other buildings round about answering to our 
 modern Guard rooms, etc : all of a very m.issive 
 description. 
 
 Rather to the south-west of this Double Gate 
 w^as another one called the « Saei-ed Gale » , 
 under which passed in ancient days a road lined 
 on either side with tombs, that eventually led to 
 Daphne and Eleusis. A pathway now follows, to 
 a certain extent, the same direction through the 
 Kerameikos to the railing which separates it 
 from the Piraeus Road almost opposite the turn- 
 ing into the high road to Daphne, Eleusis, and 
 the North. This road is still called, as in the old 
 days, the « Sacred V%^ay » , and passes, soon 
 after leaving Athens, through a Grove of Olive 
 Trees said to be upwards of '^000 years old. 
 
 AValking on from the spot among ihe massive 
 remains of the antique walls where the « Sacred 
 Gate» stood, we find ourselves in the ancient 
 place of burial, which has within the last few 
 years been considerably opened out ; pi-esenting 
 to the world a sight, not onlv extremelv inter- 
 
xxmi 
 
 
 <L X 
 
 
 
 »j(itii,fi. 
 
 
— 81 — 
 
 esting, but quite unique, this being the only 
 ((Street of Tombs)), with the Monuments in their 
 original position, extant in the whole of Greece. 
 
 The hill to the right of the path, on which 
 stands the small church called the « Hag;ia 
 Trias » , is evidently an artificial elevation and 
 was probably raised during the time of some 
 warfare as a mec^ns of attacking ihe fortified 
 gates. The ground of the whole of this enclosure 
 has been^ till quite recently^ on the same high 
 level, and many of the tombs that are now to be 
 seen in their original positions were found in 
 the process of excavation at a depth of some 
 thirty feet. It is riot unlikely that a considerable 
 part of the surface was intentionally raised at 
 some time or another,, but the ground milst 
 always have been somewhat uneven in its natu- 
 ral state. 
 
 A number of the small and more delicate 
 monuments have been removed to the ((National 
 Museumy), but most of the larger ones have been 
 left as they were found, which makes the spot 
 peculiarly interesting. 
 
 The first Tomb of importance that we meet 
 with is that of « Dexileos » , a young Athe- 
 nian Warrior which lies to the 'left of the prin- 
 cipar pathway. This is certainly one of the best 
 pr'esierved and most interesting of the monuments 
 in the Kerameikos. It forms part of a family 
 tomb, the two (( Steise » in the front of the 
 
 6 
 
— 82 — 
 
 larger monument Ijeariny inscriptions which 
 show that they were raised to the memory of 
 some other members of the same family as the 
 young hero, who was one of the five Knights 
 noted for their valour during the Corinthian war. 
 He fell at the battle of Corinth, 394. B. C 
 
 The relief pourtraying tliis young man in the 
 act of striking a fallen foe with his lance (which 
 as well as the bridle of the horse and other ac- 
 coutrementSj were originally of bronze, but have 
 now disappeared) is very spiritedly executed. The 
 expression on the face of the man on the ground, 
 who is trying to defend himself with his sword, 
 he having fallen on his shield, is full of abject 
 terror while the figure of Dexileos is graceful 
 and easy, and the expression perfectly calm, 
 though triumphant. Indeed the whole represen-" 
 tation is full of action and tells the story well. 
 The inscriptions on this relief and on the other 
 grave stones of this family tomb are verj' inter- 
 esting. 
 
 Near to thi.s grave is the tomb of « Bioi-ai- 
 lioiD), the wife of « il^g-atUon » . This also 
 has an alto -relief, representing a scene of leave 
 taking. Korallion is seated and is holding the 
 hand of one man, while another stands behind— 
 probably father -uid husband, or husltand and 
 brother. Both the action of the figures and the 
 expression on the faces are good. 
 
 Close by arc twd other graves, apparently be- 
 
xxsni 
 
 
 ^fTi^-. , 
 
 '"^'^"''^H?^™- 
 
 
 k*v 
 
 
 
longing to the same Camily, as they both l)ear 
 the name of Agathon. On the first, whicli has a 
 tall Stele with a handsome Akroterion on the 
 top, the name appears conjointly with that of 
 « Sosilivates » , while on the other the name 
 of Agathon stands alone. The latter tomb is like 
 a small Temple, built of Hymettos marble, on 
 which traces of painting were very evident when 
 it was first found. Of the figure or figures, 
 which in all probability formerly adorned it^ no 
 vestige now remains. 
 
 A little farther on is the tomb of « Oiony- 
 sitis)), which is again of Temple-like form, 
 surmounted by a Pediment. This monument, also, 
 is destitute of figures, but the interior of the 
 sort of niche or Portico composing it, still shows 
 slight signs of painting. On the Architrave is a 
 metrical inscription in six lines, by which it 
 would appear that the man was a foreigner 
 naturalized in Greece. Behind the niche on an 
 elevated pedestal, is the finely executed statue of 
 a Ouii, ;i very prominent object, which was 
 found buried near the spot and replaced in its 
 original position in 1884. j\.s a Bull was the sym- 
 bol of Dionysos, this special ornament was pro- 
 bably chosen for the grave of Dionysius, in 
 allusion to his name. 
 
 Xear this is another tomb decorated wich a 
 sculptured animal. This one is an immense dog, 
 described as a <( Molossian Hound » , which 
 
 6* 
 
— 84 — 
 
 is placed so as to appear as if guarding the 
 grave. It is a handsome object, but no particular 
 interest seems to be attached to it. 
 
 Just beyond the dog, is a small Corinthian 
 Column, formerly surmounted by an Urn, but in 
 whose honour it was raised, there is nothing 
 to show. 
 
 Passing on, the tomb known as the « Soa- 
 mail's Grave)) is next reached, being the 
 last of importance on the left hand side of the 
 path. The stone over this tomb, sculptured in 
 bas-relief, appears to be very old, the inscription 
 being quite obliterated. The subject of the relief 
 is a family group on the sea shore-of no very 
 artistic merit, but worthy of notice as showing 
 one of the types of tombs of those early days, 
 when the most familiar — one might say com- 
 monplace — actions of life are depicted. In this 
 case, one of the group (probably the member of 
 the family to whom the tomb-stone is raised) 
 sits in a boat, while the others, one of whom has 
 a glass in his hand, appear to be eating and 
 drinking. Perhaps they are supposed to be par- 
 taking of the funeral banquet. 
 
 On the other side of the pathway, we come 
 first to two Steht' raised to two members of the 
 same family, on one of which is a representa- 
 tion, in low relief, of « B^tipiifot^yno » , daugh- 
 ter of « l*lianippos)> . She is seated, with a 
 little dog under her chair, and is extending her 
 
XXTK 
 
 
 >»-*^-«. -."^W-i.^— >=.»-i«,rt. 
 
 
 ,((^S V'tkvv- -' 
 
 sf ^■■- 
 
— 85 - 
 
 hand to a youni; man who is carrying a « Sti-i- 
 gile )) and a Ihask of oil— such as was required 
 in the wrestling matches of those days — and 
 who is supposed to be the man called « ision » , 
 whose name appears on the second Stele. 
 
 Close to these graves is the superb Monument 
 to (dleg-oso)) . one of the most remarkable 
 and at the same time one of the most ancient 
 tombs in the whole of the Kerameikos, dating 
 as it does, from at least as far back as the fifth 
 century before the Christian era. Hegeso is re- 
 presented sitting, and looking at some article 
 of the toilet taken from a casket which a ser- 
 vant, standing before her, is holding out towards 
 her mistress. Hegeso bears an expression of 
 great nobility and calmness, and the pose of both 
 .figures is characterized by a graceful ease. The 
 tomb is altogether very beautiful, and is worthy 
 of the most careful inspection. 
 
 A little removed from the path is a memorial 
 stone to family, on which a group of four per- 
 sons is represented, whose names are « I*ro- 
 tonoe )) , « rvikostrate » , « EiiliOline » , 
 and <( Onesimos » ; and about even with this 
 grave, another stone may be seen bearing the 
 figure of a nude youths but neither of these 
 tombs are particularly interesting except for 
 their evident antiquity. 
 
 After passing the last of the graves an both 
 sides of the path, we come to a modern iron 
 
_ 80 - 
 
 railing in which was the foot-gate, before men- 
 tioned, whicli led out on to the Piraeus lload. 
 Turning sharp round to the left here, and re- 
 turning towards the Sacred Gate b}' a path 
 behind the principal one, the first thing that 
 will be observed is a collection of round tomb- 
 stones, most of them with names or inscriptions 
 on them; vases; and other relics and fragments 
 that have been disinterred ; all gathered toge- 
 ther ; and behind these in the far corner, is a 
 curious, three cornered Stele, quite unique of 
 its kind, surmounted by what appears to be the 
 representation of a melon as an ornament. The 
 round tombstones, just mentioned, which look 
 very much like chimney pots, were the common 
 ones of ancient days— used by people who could 
 not afford elaborate, sculptured monuments. 
 
 Continuing the path towards the east, several 
 more tombs will.be found. The first of import- 
 ance is one with a particularly fine alto-relief 
 of a young woman carrying in her hand a vase. 
 This is one of the monuments most recently 
 excavated and, as yet, no clue has been obtained 
 as to the person to whose memory the monument 
 was raised ; which is a great pity as it is cer- 
 tainly one of the most beautiful pieces of sculp- 
 ture in the Iverameikos. The figure is very finely 
 modelled and pourtrays a robust, vigorous young 
 woman,' rather than one of delicate, ethereal 
 beauty. Yet it is not wanting in grace or other 
 
yyy 
 
 hi \ '"^'-r 
 
 % 
 
— S7 — 
 
 female charms and is altogether singularly at- 
 tractive. Unfortunately the nose is brol<en, hut 
 the rest of the face and the whole of the figure 
 is quite perfect, which is wonderful Miien one 
 considers the number of centuries that it has 
 been buried. 
 
 A little farther on, facing the east, is a tomb 
 of a totally different character. Here there are 
 two figures, in a sort of niche, one sitting and 
 the other standing, which represent according 
 to the inscription, « Domoti-ia and l»am- 
 piiiio » , with no mention as to who they were 
 beyond this vague description, or what relation 
 they bore to each other. This is considered by 
 many authorities one of the most magnificent 
 monuments in the place, and it is undoubtedly a 
 grand conception well carried out ; but the fi- 
 gures cannot, from an artistic point of view, be 
 compared for grace or beauty with those on the 
 monument to Hegeso, or even with that of the 
 other brilliant though unknown star, to which 
 allusion has just been made. 
 
 Close to this tomb of Demetria and Pamphile, 
 is a beautiful Ui-n. Though several other urns, 
 all of which had probably been used for the 
 preservation of the aslies or bones of the dead, 
 have been found in this place, most of which 
 have been taken to the (.(National Museum^y, 
 this particular one is worthy of notice, not only 
 for the elegance of its form, but on account of 
 
_ ss — 
 
 its bcin<;' unspoiled Asitli plaster in the repairing. 
 
 Tliere are three plain, but very perfect 
 « Sareopliagfi » near this corner; and just 
 beyond tliem, the sitting figure of a woman, but 
 as this latter has lost both the head and the 
 inscription, nothing can be discovered about it. 
 
 On the lower part of the ground, between the 
 t\\o gates, a large Sarcophagus of the Roman 
 period may be seen, with some handsome carving 
 on it, but as there is no inscription, this also 
 remains an unknown monument. It has the ap- 
 pearance of a couch and one would imagine that 
 it had been intended to receive a reclining figure, 
 but as no sign remains of any such figure, one 
 fails to understand the meaning of the symbol. 
 
 The excavations in this region are at present 
 discontinued, on account of the exhorbitant 
 claims for compensation made by the owners of 
 the ground; but it is hoped that some day this 
 difficulty will be overcome, when doubtless many 
 more monuments Avill be revealed. It is supposed 
 that much of value still remains buried, especially 
 under the mound on which the little church of 
 the Hagia Trias stands. 
 
 It should be mentioned here that the Kera- 
 meikos included a whole districi or quarter of 
 the ancient city, extending from the Areopagus 
 to the High road beyond the Street of Tombs, 
 and that the name is supposed to have originated 
 from the Potters who congrcgaiod in this neiiih- 
 
5XXI 
 
 
— 89 — 
 
 bourhood in great numbers. After Themistocles 
 built the portion ol' the town wtill that passes 
 through this district, the two divided portions 
 came to be known as the ((Inner and Outer 
 Kerameikos)), and a stone may still be seen just 
 outside the spot where the Dipylon stood, bearing 
 the words "Opoc: KcpaiieiKou, which seems to 
 point to the fact that this was the boundary line 
 between the two divisions. 
 
 The ancient Agora or Market -place was 
 included in the Inner Kerameikos, though in 
 itself it covered a large area and included a 
 great many distinct buildings. 
 
 THE CENTRAL MUSEUM 
 
 This Museum, which is situated quite in the 
 outskirts of Athens on the Patissia Road, is a 
 modern structure, but is exclusively devoted to 
 collections of Antiquities found in Greece and 
 the Grecian islands. 
 
 The exterior of the building is not imposing 
 being very low in proportion to the length of its 
 frontage and standing as it does on low ground, 
 this is the more apparent. It was intended to be 
 a representative erection of the ancient Ionic 
 Order and as it has no glaring defects of archi- 
 tecture, it is, at any rate, unobtrusive; but, as 
 is the case with raanv other modern buildings 
 
— ',10 _ 
 
 in Athens, it aims at a faithful reproduction 
 of the Classical style ,i,nd just falls short of 
 perfection. 
 
 The interior, however, is really very fine and 
 the works of Art collected within the long series 
 of handsome, well-proportioned rooms, are 
 remarkably well arranged. Several new rooms 
 have recently been opened to the public and a 
 great many verj- valuable specimens of all classes 
 of Antiquities have been brought to this Museum 
 from the Polytechnic, the Acropolis Museum, and 
 other places where they had up till quite lately 
 been exhibited. Dr. Schliemann's valuable private 
 collection, including all the treasures found by 
 him at Mycense are also now to be seen here in 
 a large room immediately opposite to the entrance 
 door 
 
 The Museum, to which admission is free, is 
 open in summer from 7. a. m. till noon, and from 
 3. p. m. till sunset. In winter, from 9. a. m. till 
 noon, and from 2. p. m. till sunset. 
 
 Catalogues are published in French and in 
 Greek, and can be obtained in the A'estibule 
 at the entrance, where sticks and umbrellas 
 are left. 
 
 The first room, which is entered from the left 
 side of this vcstilmle, is devoted To works of 
 Sculpture of the oa-rliest (iaf(\ which are more 
 
xxxn 
 
 r-1 -/ 
 
— 91 — 
 
 curious than betiutiful as a whole, though the 
 promise of the future greatness of Grecian Art 
 is uninistalceably evidenced even in some of the 
 first crude productions of that wonderful people 
 of olden days. 
 
 Most of the Statues, Funeral Reliefs, and Stela? 
 in this first room are of the Archaic period, but 
 some few of them are pre-historical, of which 
 latter the greater number seem to have been 
 found in the Greek islands. In this collection, 
 the first work that should be, noticed is Xo. I.— a 
 very ancient Idol which is placed to the left of 
 the entrance door. This was found at Delos and 
 is supposed to represent « Arteoiis » . 
 
 The next most important works are three 
 statues of a young man nude, (Nos. 8. 9. and 10.) 
 known tis « Apollo >>, which are also to the 
 left on entrance. They are of the sixth century 
 B. C. but nothing is certainly known about them; 
 and they are remarkable only as being types of 
 the first attempts of the Grecians at the repre- 
 sentation of the human figure. Several statues 
 of the same kind have been found in different 
 parts of Greece. 
 
 Passing on. a statue of the (cX^'ing-ecl lV'ike» 
 (No. 21.— agtiinst one of the Pillars that divide 
 the room) which was found at Delos and is sup- 
 posed to be the work of « i%.rcIieriuos » of 
 Chio, one of the earliest known Sculptors, is 
 worthy of remark; as is also the « Stele of 
 
_ 9-2 - 
 
 y%i-i»ittioii » , (No. 29. under a i^lass case) which 
 was found in Attica; and though also of as early 
 a date as the sixth century B. C. shows some 
 slight progress in the development of Art. 
 
 Another Stele (No. 39.) immediately opposite 
 the last mentioned, known as ilie a Stele of 
 Oi-cliomenos » , on account of its having been 
 found at the place bearing that name in Bo'otia, 
 the work, according to the inscription on its 
 base, of « AI^Lenor of l^axos » , must not be 
 passed over. It represents in low relief a man 
 holding a grasshopper towards his little dog 
 who is jumping up to catch it. There is consider- 
 able detail in the finish and a spirit in the 
 execution of this Relief, which indicates still 
 further progress, and is surprising in a work of 
 so early a date. 
 
 On the wall under the window is a curious 
 Stele (No. 30.) found in Attica, on which there 
 is no sculpture but only some remains of paint- 
 ing, which is supposed to have been a portrait 
 of (( Lyseas » , to whose memory the stone 
 was raised. 
 
 Many heads and portions of statues in this 
 room are also worthy of inspection, but nothing 
 is specially known about them of sulficient 
 general interest to call for further remark here. 
 
 In Room II. called the (dtoom of .%.tlien» 
 Par-Uienoti« » , the statuette of « .l.tlieiia » , 
 (No. 129.) under a glass case in the centre, is 
 
xxxm 
 
— 93 - 
 
 the most prominent object. It is one of the many 
 reproductions of the colossal Chryselephantine 
 Statue in the Parthenon, by Phideias, and is of 
 the Roman period. Although this copy is neither 
 of the best school of sculpture, nor in any way 
 particularly beautiful in itself as a work of art, 
 ,it is interesting as being the most perfect repro- 
 duction yet found of that great work of the 
 renowned sculptor. It was discovered in the 
 year 1879 near the Varvahion at Athens. 
 
 In looking at this statuette it must not be 
 forgotten that it is the copy of a colossal figure, 
 thirty-nine feet in height, and that the propor- 
 tions of the original were arranged with a view 
 to its being seen from below; and that it is, 
 therefore, not an unnatural result that an effect 
 of coarseness should be observable in the upper 
 part of a smaller reproduction. The visitor will 
 gain a better impression of this statuette if he 
 will take the trouble to look at it from a distance 
 of a few feet, stooping, at the same time, suffi- 
 ciently to bring his eye about level with the 
 base. 
 
 There were many details of the original ne- 
 cessarily left out in this copy on account of its 
 size — such as the light of the « Centaurs 
 ^vitli tho l^apithse » i-ound the edges of the 
 sandals of the Goddes, and the combats between 
 the « Greeks and the Amaxons » , and 
 between the « Gods and tlie Giants » , on 
 
— 9'i — 
 
 the outside and the inside of her shield respect- 
 ivel}'. Neither did the pillar supporting her hand 
 exist in the original, but in all probability an 
 Olive tree was represented rising out of the 
 pedestal on which the statue was placed - that 
 having been one of Athena's especial attributes. 
 It is not unlikely that the artist, in maldn^j this 
 reproduction, may have purposely made this 
 alteration in order to give support to the out- 
 stretched hand which bears the figure of «^ike;) 
 the inseparable attendant of Athena. Her other 
 attribute, the snake, is shown coiled up inside 
 the shield. In the left hand which rests on the 
 shield, was formerly a spear, which is now 
 missing. 
 
 On the wall near this statuette is another of 
 the same subject, still smaller, (No. 128) which 
 was found on the Pnyx in 1859. It is not of 
 much value as a work of art, but is curious as 
 being the lirst that was recognized as a repro- 
 duction of Phideias' colossal statue out of many 
 others that have been discovered at diflerent 
 times. 
 
 In this room there are many objects of inte- 
 rest besides these two statuettes. The first to 
 be mentioned is a very fine « Votive Relief)) 
 found at Eleiisis, No. 156. It represents « Oe- 
 meier and I*ei-seplioM«' )> with the boy 
 «Ti-iptolemM»)), receiving some grains of 
 corn to distribute over the earth from' the for- 
 
XXXIV 
 
 .- Um^ *' — i^ 
 
— 95 - 
 
 mer, while the h\tter is crowning him wifcli a 
 garland. 
 
 On the wall to the left are three small statues 
 ol'r\'iko— Xos: 159-161. which vera found in the 
 Sanctuav.ij of Esculapius at Epidaurus. They 
 are very graceful figures, especially the centre 
 one. Below these is a row of Busts and lieads — 
 all vei\v interesting, and .of great artistic value. 
 That of a young man in the centre, which was 
 found at Eleusis, is usually called the « Head 
 of Eulmlus » , but there have been many 
 discussions as to its authenticity. It is a work of. 
 the fourth century before the Christian Era, 
 and is thought by some authorities to be of the 
 school of Praxiteles. 
 
 Among these Heads is one of a woman (No. 
 185) which is particularly beautiful, though un- 
 fortunately a good deal disfigured. It is also a 
 work of the fourth century, and was found at 
 Delns, but who it represents is uncertain. By 
 some authorities, however, it is thought to be 
 the head of oMoIpomone » , while others 
 contend that the head numbered 193, is more 
 likely to have been intended for Melpomene. 
 
 On the wall under the window is a collection 
 of reliefs and statues, found in the aSanctuary 
 of Esculajnus^y at Epidaurus, all of which are 
 worthy of careful inspection, though they, too, 
 are also greatly delapidated. Amongst these must 
 especially be noticed the figure of « Escula- 
 
— 96 — 
 
 piiis)) himself (x\u. 173) sitting on a throne, in 
 high relief; and ilie (c^Vmaxon)) (Xo. 136) 
 which, when perfect, must have been remarka- 
 bly tine. The eas^' and ^-et firm manner in which 
 the fiigure is sitting on the horse is grand, and 
 the whole action most spirited. 
 
 In Room III. stands conspicuously a statue 
 of <(Hermes» considered by many authorities to 
 be the gem of the of the entire collection of 
 sculpture. It is called the « llei-mes of 
 -iLndi-os )) , having been found in the island of 
 that name; and as it bears a strong resemblance 
 in the features to the magnificent statue of 
 Hermes at Olyinpia, by Praxiteles, it is supposed 
 to be at any rate a work of his school, if not of 
 his own hand. 
 
 On the wall at the side of this statue are three 
 marble slabs, in a wonderfully good state of 
 preservation, which were found at Mantinea. 
 They represent, in bas-relief, the musical com- 
 petition between .%.poHo and i%lai-syas; and 
 six of the other muses with their instruments. 
 Above these panels, and running round three 
 sides of the room, are casts from the Frieze of 
 the {(Temple of Apollo-, at Bassa^, of which the 
 originals are in the British Museum, having been 
 sold to the I-Cnglish Government early in the 
 present century. 
 
 From this I'oom, mc pass into a long room 
 containing works of a rather later period; but, 
 
XXZY 
 
 'i^M 
 
 '"^X '1 
 
— 97 — 
 
 before examining them, visitors must turn into 
 a little room to the left of the entnince door, in 
 -which stands a fine colossal statue of « Xlio- 
 niis » , which was found very recently at Ram- 
 nus. It is supposed to be a Mork of the third 
 century, B. C. and is considered a valuable addi- 
 tion to the collection in this Museum. 
 
 Among' the large number of statues in the 
 long room, the principal works to be noticed 
 are the colossal statue of « l*oseicioii)) , from 
 Melos, which is fine in its pose, but not remark- 
 able for any great artistic beauty, or for finish 
 in the details of the workmanship ; the statue of 
 a man, unknown, (No. 244) found at Et^etria, of 
 which the head is considered to resemble the 
 Hermes of Praxiteles, and is verj' superior to 
 the rest of the body; and the admirable statue 
 of a lk%.^arrior (No. 247), probably a Gaul^ 
 found at Delos. This is the work of a sculptor of 
 Ephesus, named « i%g-asias » , according to an 
 inscription on the pedestal, and is remarkable 
 for the knowledge of anatomy displayed in the 
 grand pose of the figure. The warrior has evi- 
 dently been forced on to one knee by his anta- 
 gonist, and is defending himself with his shield, 
 which is missing, from a blow directed from 
 above. It is to be regretted that the head is gone, 
 forjudging by the rest of the figure one may 
 imagine that it would have been grand in its 
 expression and manipulation. 
 
— 08 - 
 
 We pas.s throug'li this room into a small one, 
 on the lloor of which is a beautiful piece of mo- 
 saic pavement, railed round, which Avas, not long 
 ago, brought from the Pirceus where it was 
 found when digging the foundations of a house. 
 This room is entirely filled with busts and heads 
 of no very great individual interest except as 
 showing the variety and prolixity of art in those 
 early days. 
 
 This room opens into the large Hall of Fune- 
 ral reliefs. These are so numerous and, for the 
 most part, so valuable and interesting, either for 
 their antiquity only, or for their intrinsic beauty, 
 that it is dillicult to particularize any as deserv- 
 ing ]nore especial attention than others. On 
 the very early tombs^ there was usually but one 
 figure represented on the Stele— that of the per- 
 son to whose memor}' it was raised — but from 
 the fourth centur}- on, the reliefs often contained 
 two or more figures. Sometimes groups of a 
 whole family were represented, m hich gave 
 great scope to the talent of the artist. No. 718, is, 
 perhaps, one of the most beautiful of these mo- 
 numents, the figures being particulatly graceful. 
 It bears the name of «Ameinokleia», and was 
 found at the Pira'us. iXo. 7'22, is also very fine, 
 and wonderfully perfect, and >s'os. 717, and 7?t3, 
 must not be passed ovei- either. These are all on 
 the right hand side of the room. On the opposite 
 side arc some Stehr of a diil'crent type, mostly 
 
— 99 - 
 
 pourtraying scenes of leave-taking in low relief, 
 which are very interesting. At the lower end of 
 the room are a few smaller Stelae of a very early 
 date; and three large temple-like monuments 
 with figures more than life size, more or less 
 grand in their conception, but not particularly 
 beautiful as works of art. 
 
 In tlie centre of the room are some macnifl- 
 cent Vases, most of which were used as orna- 
 ments on tombs— not as receptacles for the ashes 
 of the dead. No. 811, which shows one style of 
 ornament, and Nos. 8 14-1 5-1 G, with reliefs, are 
 especiall}' beautiful, both as regards the ele- 
 gance of their form and the finish of their 
 workmanship. 
 
 On the upper part of the wall, on the right, is 
 a curious specimen of painting, copied from a 
 tomb that was discovered not very long ago at 
 Corinth. 
 
 From this room, we pass into another to the 
 right, again devoted to a collection of tombs, 
 where just behind the door on the left side is a 
 very beautiful relief (No. 817) pourtraying a wo- 
 man sitting in an attitude of profound grief —the 
 pose and the drapery of which are extremely 
 graceful. No. 8)9, is also very fine and in an 
 extraordinarily good state of preservation. Many 
 other fine reliefs are arranged round the walls 
 of this room and there is also a splendid collec- 
 tion of Vases here, the large one in the centre 
 
- 100 — 
 
 (No. H35) being particularly elegant and beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 Again, we pass on to another room, in which 
 there are Vases almost without end, and more 
 reliefs on the walls. These are slightly different 
 in character, some of them being very old. Many 
 of the stel?e have portraits of the dead person 
 on them in relief, accompanied by some favourite 
 animal— as, for instance, in the Stele numbered 
 895^ where a duck is in the hand of the defunct, 
 while on No. 898 there is a rabbit. No. 896, 
 shows another style again, where an Urn in relief 
 is the ornament, with a Harpy above it. An urn 
 was a favourite ornamental device among the 
 ancients, and will be seen many times repeated 
 among the Stelos throughout the Museum. No. 
 884, is a large one, with three urns represented 
 on it, and is worthy of attention, being rather 
 different in style from the rest of the stela\ 
 
 At the end of this room are three large monu- 
 ments, with heroic sized sculptured figures. One 
 of these (No. 869) has only recently been intro- 
 duced into the Museum, and is considered a very 
 fine specimen of that class of work. 
 
 There is yet another room with tombstones 
 and vases of the same charactei-; and then follow 
 two rooms which have lately been opened to the 
 public, containing some large ((SSai-copUagi)), 
 besides more reliefs. They are all very fine and 
 in a wonderfully good stale of preservaiion, but 
 
XXXT TT 
 
 'm 
 
 
 ?', 
 
 . / 
 
 
 C-V>f' 
 
 / 1 
 
 5 / 
 
— 101 — 
 
 perhaps the one numbered 1178, is the most cu- 
 rious, for it is evidently older fhan the others, 
 thouLih none of them are of an earlier date than 
 the Roman period. It was found in Athens only 
 two or three years ago. 
 
 There are still two more rooms to be passed 
 through, which contain fragments of tombs, 
 etc : found in Athens itself and various parts of 
 Greece ; and one or two more Sarcophagi — all 
 interesting from their antiquity, but of which 
 none need be specially particularized. The last 
 of this series of rooms contains some pieces of 
 Byzantine sculpture and decoration of a totally 
 different character from the specimens of Greek 
 Art collected in this building;-. 
 
 Turning to the right from the entrance Vesti- 
 bule, there is a long series of rooms containing 
 Vases of every description, and numerous other 
 small objects^ all of which have been found in 
 different parts of Greece, principally in tombs 
 and during excavations in those localities where 
 there had formally been human habitations. 
 
 In the first room will be found a large collec- 
 tion of small figures in Terra-Cotta, of animals 
 as well as human beings, and a number of quaint 
 little statuettes in bronze, all of which may have 
 served as images for worship or votive offerings, 
 or simply as ornaments ; most of them being 
 
— \jy> — 
 
 Archaic. In one oi' the cases are some l)eautiful 
 mirrors, hi;jlil,y ornamented; and one or two 
 exquisite small vases of very graceful form. 
 There are also some iron Spear-heads and va- 
 rious remains of ancient weapons. A large i»ro- 
 portion of these articles were found in Athens 
 and the neighbourhood, one set of cases l)eing 
 entirely filled with small Bronzes found on the 
 Acropolis itself, which have recently been remov- 
 ed to this building from the Acropolis Museum. 
 
 The second room is exclusively devoted to 
 Terra-Cotta figurines from Asia Minor. Some 
 of these are very old and interesting on that 
 account, while a great many are very graceful, 
 and pretty, and worthy of inspection for their 
 own sakes. Amongst so large a number, how- 
 ever, it is impossible to specify any as deserving 
 more particukxr attention than others. 
 
 This may equally be said of the third room, 
 in which the same class of figures and figurines 
 have been collected, brought from Tanagra, 
 Corinth, and other places in Greece and the 
 islands. So numerous are those that liave been 
 found at the town of Tanagra, that the place 
 has given the name to this whole class of figu- 
 rines. On many of them traces of painting may 
 be discerned, and some show great care in the 
 minutiae of the workmanship. In one of the eases 
 is a collection of most extraordinary little ani- 
 mals in cl.ay which are extremely primitive in 
 
xsxsm. 
 
— 103 — 
 
 form and evidently of great antiquity. There may 
 also be seen in the cases some curious antique 
 seals, besides a good deal of jewellery and small 
 objects in gold, many of which are in fragments. 
 
 A large proportion of these latter were found 
 in the Kerameikos at Athens. More specimens 
 of ancient weapons are also collected here. 
 
 The fourth room is a large one in which there 
 is a tine collection of Vases, all most carefully 
 and successfully restored^ of which a great many 
 were found in Eretria and others in various 
 parts of Attica and Bceotia. There are some 
 cases, too, full of glass ornaments, which are not 
 only most curious and interesting, but remark- 
 ably beautiful in themselves. The brilliant iri- 
 descent colours that they bear, have accrued to 
 them from their long exclusion from the light 
 and from their contact with the soil, charged as 
 it is with mineral deposits. More gold ornaments 
 and quantities of coloured beads and other small 
 objects, besides some articles of household pottery 
 ware, are collected in this room, and are all 
 very interesting, There are also some skulls and 
 human bones here, and one or two almost perfect 
 skeletons laid out as if in a tomb, surrounded 
 with vases, cups, and other small objects which 
 were found buried with them. These last were 
 discovered in Athens. In this room, too, is a case 
 containing some very curious articles in pottery 
 (numbered 1629 and upwards) which were used 
 
— 10^ — 
 
 in the process of Aveaving, being placed by wo- 
 men on their knees to pass tlie tliread over when 
 winding the wai'p. In the same case are two 
 thread winders, set up over looking glass in such 
 a manner that the painting on the reverse side 
 can be seen; all these things being very highly 
 ornamented. 
 
 The fifth and sixth rooms contain nothing bui 
 Vases of every description and size, found in 
 Attica, Ba'otia, Ta.nagra, and other parts of 
 Greece, some few having been dug up so long 
 ao'o that no traces of their oriiiinal whereabouts 
 can be ascertained. Most of the very large Vases 
 in the last room of this series were found buried 
 in the Kerameihos at Athens, when that inter- 
 esting spot was iirst opened out and its varied 
 treasures brought to light, not very many years 
 ago. Two or three of these, of greater antiquity, 
 however, came from the island of Milos- 
 
 All the articles in these rooms are classified 
 and arranged in separate cases^ the name of the 
 place from which each set of specimens was 
 brought being written clearly at the top of every 
 case; but though all the objects are numbered, 
 no catalogue has as yet been published of this 
 large and varied collection. 
 
 The classification and nomenclature of (Ireek 
 Vases is a study in itself, and cannot be entered 
 into fully in a work of this size, but for the 
 help of those visiting this and other collections. 
 
XXXIX 
 
 
— 105 — 
 
 a few of the principal forms of antique vases 
 may be briefly commented upon, and a cursory 
 description given of the earliest styles of Cera- 
 mic Painting. 
 
 The Vase known as the « /'%.iiipliors» » has 
 an upright body, supported by a loot varying in 
 form and height, with tAvo handles attached to 
 the upper part. The size of these vases differs 
 immensely, many of the largest appearing to 
 have been made only for ornament, as they are 
 not hollow. Some of them have lids or covers, 
 others are open at the top. Two fine specimens 
 of Amphono, mounted on very high feet may 
 be seen standing alone under glass shades in 
 the second vase room of this series, numbered 
 117 J. and 1454. which were found in Attica; and 
 in the same room, in the case of vases from 
 Tanagra, is another beautiful Amphora, num- 
 bered 1333. 
 
 The « Ci-atef » —generally of a large size — 
 was used for mixing wine with water. The form 
 of this vase is spreading, with a wide mouth. 
 The handles are generally near the bottom, but 
 sometimes rise from about half way up to above 
 the top with Volutes. There are other varieties 
 of this Vase too numerous to mention, such as 
 the « Celel>e » , (( OxyB>aplion » , etc: 
 
 The « Ilydria » , a luccytlms » , « Bom- 
 byliiis)), ((Enoclioo)), etc: have only one 
 handle and are more like ordinary jugs, but of 
 
— 106 — 
 
 very elegant foni). Each of these classes ul' vases 
 may again be subdivided into oilier classes more 
 or less distinct, of which each l)ears a different 
 name, but this distinction depends sometimes on 
 the character of the ornamentation, and not 
 solely on the form. 
 
 The « Cylix. » , « Cant liiti'ims )) , « t;ya- 
 tlius » , etc: are vases of quite another form, 
 being wide and low, with handles at t! e sides 
 but nearer to the top. These vases are found in 
 great quantities in many parts of Greece and 
 vary as much as those of the other classes in 
 size, form, and decoration. 
 
 The (dthyton )) is another distinct class of 
 Vase, giving still greater scope to the fertility of 
 invention displayed by the Greek Potters. They 
 vary greatly in shape, types of animal or vege- 
 table life having been often employed in their 
 manufacture; and they are sometimes so small 
 as to have been simply used as drinking cups. 
 
 The most ancient Vases are from the Ci/cUT.frs 
 and have been found principally in the islands 
 of Milos and Santorin; and also in Bfiodes and 
 Cyprus. Some of them date as far ba(^k as the 
 eighteenth or twentieth century before the Christ- 
 ian Era. The oldest are of course very primi- 
 tive both as regards form and decoration, though 
 they follow the genei'al outlines given above. 
 
 The painting on all classes of A'ases differs 
 as greatly as the form. Those with -oometric 
 
XL 
 
— 107 _ 
 
 decorations have been found in great numbers 
 at At/tens, of which many beautiful specimens 
 may be seen in these rooms. The patterns are 
 usually drawn in dark reddish-brown and black 
 on a red ground, and are often very carefully 
 executed. Other vases have figures of men and 
 animals on them — sometimes alone and some- 
 times mixed with the geometric patterns. 
 
 The Vases decorated in the manner known as 
 the « Coi-iiitliiaii style)) are of a yellowish 
 white clay, the figures on them being of a dull 
 brownish colour ranging to an intense black, 
 according to the period of their production. The 
 devices bear an Eastern character in the earlier 
 ones, while mythological subjects are introduced 
 into those of a later date. Other styles of deco- 
 ration are known by the names of the designers 
 r.^fM ^^'^ are very varied. Those of « ]Vicostlien©s» 
 '^^2' s'^o'^ ^ S'^'^^* advance in the drawing, and in 
 the taste that characterises his work. 
 
 Vases painted in the « .%.ttic Style » form 
 a distinct class and are very beautiful both in 
 the design and in the delicacy of the workman- 
 ship. Athenian Ceramic Painters seem to have 
 been especially renowned and a great many fine 
 specimens of their work are extant. The pure 
 « x'%.tlieiiian Y't-'liite Lecytlii )) , though 
 frequently met with in tombs in Attica, are 
 never found elsewhere, but other white Lecythi, 
 resembling in many respects those of Athenian 
 
— 108 — 
 
 production, have been I'ound in Eretria and a 
 few other parts of Greece. Tlie neck and foot of 
 the true Athenian vases ai'e covered with a 
 brilliant black varnish, the body being coated 
 with white on which the figures are drawn 
 either in bright red shaded with a wann brown, 
 or in a lovely soft blue or purple. A larj^e number 
 of Lecythi are collected in the first "\'ase room, 
 and particular notice should be taken of those in 
 the cases of Attic specimens, on which the supe- 
 riority in the details of their decoration may be, 
 in some instances discerned. 
 
 It is impossible to dilate further here upon the 
 many interesting and elegant varieties of Gre- 
 cian ^'ases, but it is hoped that enough has been 
 said to be of some slight assistance in enabling 
 those visitors who are quite unlearned in these 
 matters, to appreciate the beauties of the large 
 collections to be seen in Athens. 
 
 In the room opposite to the entrance, called 
 the «Mycena^ Room)), on account of the ti-easures 
 collected in it which were found by Dr. Schlie- 
 mann at that place, is ;it present only opened to 
 the public for one hour daily- namely from 11. 
 to 12. a. m. and not at all on Sundays — but 
 doubtless the time will be extended later. 
 
 The centre cases are entirely devoted to these 
 valuable finds and contain numerous articles of 
 gold and silver jewellery -some very perfect and 
 
— 109 - 
 
 some in fragments— including Diadems or Tia- 
 ras, Necklaces, Amulets, Girdles, Sword-belts, 
 Clasps, Pins, and Rings; besides some Hat Pen- 
 dants which are supposed to have been sus- 
 pended from the girdle or worn as ornaments 
 across the breast; and a large quantity of round, 
 Hat gold plates, for what used seems doubtful. 
 There are also in the cases a great many Cups, 
 Vases, Jugs, etc: in gold, silver, bronze, and 
 copper; small articles in ivory; fragments of 
 pottery- ware and terra -cotta vases; kitchen 
 utensils, etc : Also some curious gold masks the 
 use of which is obscure, though they are sup- 
 posed to have been put over the faces of the dead 
 to beautify them ! and some larger ornaments 
 including the head of an ox, in silver, with gold 
 horns; quantities of amber and other beads; 
 seals; and in fact every conceivable article of 
 house decoration and personal adornm.ent. 
 
 The whole of this valuable and celebrated 
 Treasure was found by Dr. Schliemann at il///- 
 ceno' and Tiryns, principally in five graves, at 
 the first named place, that were discovered by 
 him in the year 187G. 
 
 On the ground under these cases are two whole 
 skeletons arranged, as if in a tomb, with terra- 
 cotta vases, large and small, weapons, and other 
 objects collected round them, as found when first 
 opened out; skulls; large metal and pottery 
 vases and household utensils; swords and other 
 
— Jill — 
 
 weapons; L'i(': all discovered durinj^- the exca- 
 vations in the Mycena' district. 
 
 Two small cups of pure j^old and of very beau- 
 tiful desii^n, which ;ire placed under separate 
 ijlass shades were found by Dr. Schliemann in 
 the Vapheio Tomb, near Amyklw. The designs 
 are in repousse work; and the delicacy of the 
 execution is unrivalled ])y any production of 
 those early times. 
 
 On the walls at the two sides of the room are 
 five very curious and seemingly very ancient 
 Steko from the five liravcs already' mentioned. 
 They are in a porous limestone and are sculp- 
 tured in low relief with tigure subjects of hunt- 
 ing, interspersed with Arabesque patterns. 
 
 In the cases arranged round the room, are 
 various objects found at Nemidi, in Attica, Tho- 
 rilio, Salamis, Nawplia, Tiryns, Diminlon in 
 Thessaly, etc : — all of whicli are very interest- 
 ing. Among them are some of the very curious^ 
 almost shapeless little figures in cla}', which are 
 supposed to have been idols of the vei-y earliest 
 period. The rest of the articles have a certain 
 similarity with those in the other rooms, but 
 there are several large vases of a rather un- 
 usual shape. They are vciy white, having been 
 restored, and are pointed at the bottom with the 
 evident intention of being hung u]) or sunk in 
 the ground in order to cool the water. 
 
— Ill - 
 
 Within this room is another, devoted to a col- 
 lection of l^yptian Antiquities which was made 
 hy Mr. Dimitrious, of Greek nationality, at 
 Alexandria and presented bv him to the Museum 
 in 1881. 
 
 Among them may be seen a number of small 
 bronze figures— principally idols, including the 
 famous sacred cat— of much the same character 
 as those in other Egyptian collections at the 
 British Museum and elsewhere, as well as spe- 
 cimens of the «Scarabeus» or sacred beetle, and 
 some other curiosities Among them are some 
 articles of jewellery almost as new looking as if 
 they were of modern production. One nearly 
 life-sized figure carved in wood, is worthy of 
 attention on account of its extreme antiquit}^, as 
 it is said to be a work of at least three or four 
 thousand years before the Christian Era. It is 
 numbered 908, and stands under a glass case at 
 one side of the room. The figure is that of a wo- 
 man kneeling, supposed to be making bread, and 
 the life-like spirit of movement manifested in 
 this production proves how far advanced in Art 
 were this people of early times. 
 
 Indeed, the principal interest .in this small 
 exhibition of Egyptian antiquities., when viewed 
 in connection with the specimens of Greek work 
 collected in this building, lies in the evidence 
 put before us of the influence that the Art of 
 this ancient nation had over that of the Grecians. 
 
— 112 — 
 
 Within this room are again two small rooms 
 containing some Mummies of human l)eings and 
 Mummy cases, and one Mummy Cat, and Kitten^ 
 
 'Besides the numerous objects of antique 
 workmanship to be seen in the Central Museum, 
 there are some private collections of Greek coins 
 and other curiosities, which may be visited by 
 the courtesy of their owners through the inter- 
 cession of Mr. Kavvadias, the chief Ephor of 
 Antiquities. There is also a collection of coins at 
 the Academy, a fine modern building in Uni- 
 versity Street. 
 
 The ((Ethnological and Historical Museum» in 
 the Polytechnic Institution, (another modern 
 building in the Patissia Road) containing por- 
 traits of Grecian celebrities; some curious manu- 
 scripts, etc: can also be seen on application to 
 Mr. Kavvadias, but all, or nearly all, veritable 
 Antiquities have been removed from that place 
 to the Central Museum. 
 
 THE END 
 
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