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CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 3 1924 107 925 673 
 
 Albert R. AAann Library 
 
 COR.NELL University 
 
The original of tliis book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31 9241 07925673 
 
MISS CORSON'S 
 
 PRACTICAL 
 
 AMERICAN COOKERY 
 
 AND 
 
 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 
 
 AN EVERY-DAY BOOK FOR AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPERS, GIVING THE 
 MOST ACCEPTABLE ETIQUETI'E OF AMERICAN HOSPITALITY, 
 AND COMPREHENSIVE AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR 
 MARKETING, CARVING, AND GENERAL TABLE- 
 SERVICE; TOGETHER WITH SUGGESTIONS 
 FOR THE DIET OF CHILDREN 
 AND THE SICK. 
 
 MISS JULIET CORSON, 
 
 at'thok of ' the cooking-school text-dook and housekeeper*^ guide,'' 
 
 "the cooking manual," "meals fob the million," "fifteen 
 
 and twentv-five cent dinners," " diet for invalids 
 
 AND CHILDREN," "THE WORKINGMaN's DIETARY," 
 "local AMERICAN COOKERY," "THE BAL- 
 TIMORE COOKING RECIPES," ETC. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 DODD, MEAD, AND COMPANY. 
 
Copyright, 1S85, 
 By JULIET CORSON= 
 
 All fights reserved. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IN submitting this book to the public, the author carries 
 out a long-cherished purpose, which had its inception in a 
 suggestion made to her by the Hon. John Eaton, United-States 
 Commissioner of Education, during a discussion concerning the 
 cookery of America. The fact that the cookery of Europe, and 
 especially of France, enters so largely into the author's scheme 
 of teaching, and of constructing her books already published, 
 was being commented upon ; and in response to her statement 
 that this was occasioned by the demands of the public, and not 
 from any lack of variety or excellence in American cookery, the 
 commissioner suggested the preparation of a work sufficiently 
 broad in scope and minute in detail to verify her assertion that 
 genuine American cookery is both wholesome and palatable, and 
 has lost none of the traditional excellence which characterized 
 it in our grandmothers' days. 
 
 To facilitate the work, the commissioner caused the publication 
 and extended circulation of the following correspondence : — 
 
 To the Hon. John Eaton, U.S. Commissioner of Education, 
 
 Bureau of Education , Dept. of the Inferior, Washington, D.C. 
 
 Dear Sir, — I venture to ask your help in an educational matter of 
 general public interest, and trust you will afford me such assistance as lies 
 in your power. 
 
 I Have been, as you are aware, engaged for the past four years in the train- 
 ing of young women alid girls in domestic economy, numbering among my 
 pupils many ladies of our most prominent families. The results of this in- 
 struction have so successfully covered the local field of cookery in the North- 
 
 V 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 eastern States, that I am in receipt of many communications urging me to 
 adapt some of my special methods to the Southern and Western portions of 
 the country. In consequence of marked social changes attendant on the civil 
 war, a radical alteration is taking place in this department. In doing this 
 work, I desire to combine rudimentary economical principles with the culinary 
 excellence of local dishes. In order to proceed intelligently, I must depend 
 largely on the kindness of persons best informed in regard to the specialties 
 of the local market supply, and of such dishes as hold popular favor. 
 
 In connection with this subject I venture to apply to you. Will you please 
 aid me in communicating with these persons, in order, (i) that I may consult 
 them in regard to the desirableness of establishing cooking-schools, and (2) 
 that I may ask them for information -oncerning the following points : — 
 
 I. Definite lists of the principal foods in local use, and their average market 
 prices. 
 
 ^. Accurate recipes for the preparation of such materials in popular dishes. 
 
 3. Recipes for favorite local dishes, and their names. 
 
 4. General information bearing on the subject. 
 
 I shall consider such information of the greatest value to me in the prep- 
 aration of the work I propose to issue, not for the use of families only, but 
 also for the guidance of instructors in cooking in different parts of the 
 country. 
 
 With assurances of high esteem, I am 
 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 JULIET CORSON, 
 Superintendent New-York School of Cookery. 
 
 Office of the New- York School ok Cookery, 
 Union Square, New York, Aug 1878. 
 
 Upon the receipt of Miss Corson's letter, Gen. Eaton caused 
 the following circular letter to be issued from the Bureau of 
 Education, and generally circulated throughout the country; 
 addressing it to the heads of educational institutions, and to all 
 persons of local prominence who seemed likely to be able to 
 supply the information called for by iVIiss Corson : — 
 
 Sir, — 1 beg to call your attention to the enclosed copy of a letter received 
 from Miss Juliet Corson, the superintendent of the New-York School of 
 Cookery. I hope you may be able to make some valuable suggestions for her 
 on one or more topics of special importance to her work. 
 
 Miss Corson's ability, culture, wisdom in forming and executing her plans, 
 her eminent qualifications in the theory and practice of cooking, and her suc- 
 cess in organizing and conducting the school in New- York City and in pre- 
 paring manuals upon the subject of cooking, give the best possible assurance 
 
PREFACE. VU 
 
 that whatever information you can afford her upon points of her inquiry will 
 be advantageously used. 
 
 Any suggestions you may make for her use can be sent to this office in the 
 enclosed envelope, and will be forwarded to her. 
 
 Very respectfully yours, 
 
 JOHN EATON, Commissioner, 
 Per C. W. 
 Department of the Interior, Bureau of Education, 
 Washington, D.C, Aug. 31, 1878. 
 
 The material which came in response to this correspondence 
 was abundant. The author has augmented it in the spring and 
 fall lecture and lesson tours she has taken to many parts of 
 the country during the intervening years ; she has also availed 
 herself of recipes communicated to her by personal friends, and 
 drawn from local and private collections. Like every person 
 absorbed in the advancement of a special line of work, she has 
 appropriated every hint offered her : the only personal credit to 
 which she is entitled is for the scrupulous fidelity with which 
 she has tested the methods given, and verified every statement 
 which she makes. If the directions seem verbose, the fact 
 must be remembered that the greater number of cookery-books 
 fail to meet the demands of housewives, because they are indefi- 
 nite ; and they are especially trying to those who have yet to 
 gain the judgment and experience which too many writers on 
 domestic subjects seem to take for granted. The author aims, 
 above all, to be clear and precise ; to give such simple methods 
 that a person of the most ordinary intelligence can follow them. 
 She guarantees that the promised results will always be attained 
 if the directions are closely adhered to ; the only latitude allowed 
 is in the matter of seasoning, which is left more or less to the 
 judgment of the cook, who must be guided by the taste of those 
 for whom she caters. And in regard to the use of wine, in this 
 last question, the author suggests that where the use of wine is 
 not desirable, some dish should be chosen into the composition 
 of which it does not enter; because, unless it is so definitely 
 stated in the recipe, there is no flavoring or seasoning which 
 can replace it without altering the character of the dish. There 
 are many delicious dishes which require no wine, — so many, 
 indeed, that the author has repeatedly offered to supply to any 
 
VIU PREFACE. 
 
 temperance society which would publish it, a good Temperance 
 Cookery-Book, the use of which would do much to advance the 
 cause whose advocates urge her to espouse it, forgetting that, 
 as a teacher of cookery, she is not at liberty to accept or reject 
 any available edible substance because of personal preference 
 or disapproval. Of the engravings, some are original ; the rest 
 are copied from the works of the best European writers on 
 cookery. 
 
 In conclusion, the author begs a cordial reception for this 
 book in the name of the Forest City Housewife and her sister 
 host of culinary experts whose best knowledge and perfected 
 experience it embodies. 
 
 New York, i86& 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 
 
 PAGR 
 
 The Kitchen i 
 
 The Pantry 5 
 
 The Refrigerator 7 
 
 The Cellar 9 
 
 The Care of Milk and But- 
 ter II 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MARKETING. 
 
 The Preparation of Meat for 
 
 Marlcet 17 
 
 Good Points in Meats. ....... 20 
 
 Beef 22 
 
 Veal 25 
 
 Lamb 28 
 
 Mutton 30 
 
 Pork 32 
 
 Poultry 34 
 
 Game-Birds 36 
 
 Game 36 
 
 Fish 37 
 
 Vegetables and Fruit 38 
 
 Dairy Products and Groce- 
 ries , 39 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 METHODS OF COOKING. 
 
 Roasting 40 
 
 Baking 42 
 
 Broiling 44 
 
 Braising 47 
 
 Blanching 4S 
 
 Glazing and Gilding 4S 
 
 Frying 45 j Larding and Daubing. 
 
 Boiling 46 I Barding 49 
 
 Steaming 47 I Boning 49 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 Whole Fish 52 
 
 Head and Shoulders of Fish. 53 
 
 Fish Larded and Baked ... 54 
 
 Half Large Boiled Fish 54 
 
 Whole Turbot Garnished. . . 55 
 
 Poultry 56 
 
 Larded Fowl 57 
 
 To Carve Roast Turkey. . . 58 
 
 Turkey Partly Boned 59 
 
 How to Carve Ducks 59 
 
 How tff Carve Roast Goose. 60 
 
 Game-Birds 61 
 
 Meats 62 
 
 Mutton Boned and Stuffed. 62 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Saddle of Mutton Larded.. . 63 
 
 Round of Beef 64 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 64 
 
 Ribs or Sirloin of Beef 
 
 Boned 65 
 
 Beef-Tongues Garnished . . 66 
 
 Roast Ham 67 
 
 Cold Ham with Aspic Jelly. 67 
 
 Hand or Leg of Young Pork. 68 
 
 Saddle of Venison 68 
 
 Larded Saddle of Venison . . 6g 
 
 Larded Shoulder of Venison. 70 
 
 Barded Hare 7° 
 
 Larded Hare 71 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 
 
 A Very Simple Dining- 
 
 Room 74 
 
 Decorative Art the Reflex of 
 
 Nature 76 
 
 Sideboards and Tables 77 
 
 Decorations of China and 
 
 Plate 79 
 
 Chairs for the Dining-Room. 8i 
 
 Windows and Draperies .... 81 
 
 Light in the Dining-Room. . 82 
 
 Dining-Room Floors 83 
 
 I Sawdust Scrubbing 84 
 
 Dry Scrubbing with Sand. . 84 
 
 I How to Prepare Floors for 
 
 ; Oiling and Staining 85 
 
 Oiling Hard-Wood Floors . . 85 
 
 I Polishing Hard-Wood Floors 86 
 
 Staining Wooden Floors ... 86 
 
 Sizing Stained Floors 87 
 
 I Varnishing Stained Floors.. 87 
 
 Black Varnish for Wood ... 87 
 
 Painted Floors 88 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. 
 
 Tablecloths go 
 
 Table-Napkins 92 
 
 Washing Table-Linen 94 
 
 Silver and Cutlery. 
 China and Glass. . . 
 
 95 
 99 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 TLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Flowers at Table no 
 
 Menus, or Bills of Fare. H2 
 
 The Service of Dishes Ii6 
 
 The English Dinner-Service. iig 
 The Service of Dinner i la 
 
 Russe 121 
 
 The Dinner - Service as 
 
 Shown on Menu Cards. . . 122 
 
 Menu 123 
 
 English Bill of Fare for Din- 
 ner a la Russe 124 
 
 The American Dinner 125 
 
 Bill of Fare for American 
 
 Dinner 128 
 
 Bill of Fare 129 
 
 Dinner Wines 130 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE ETIQUETTE OF 
 
 Large Breakfasts 
 
 Bill of Fare 
 
 The Family Breakfast 
 
 Family Luncheon 
 
 Luncheon Parties 
 
 Bill of Fare 
 
 Afternoon Receptions 
 
 Afternoon Teas 
 
 Family Teas 
 
 Gentlemen's Suppers 
 
 Supper Parties 
 
 VARIOUS ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 142 
 144 
 144 
 146 
 
 148 
 149 
 150 
 152 
 152 
 153 
 
 Evening Parties 154 
 
 Cinderella Parties 154 
 
 Card Parties 155 
 
 Calling During Entertain- 
 ments 155 
 
 New Year's Receptions 155 
 
 Wedding Receptions and 
 
 Breakfasts 156 
 
 Country-House Parties. .... 158 
 Garden and Lawn Parties. . 160 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SMALL SHELL-FISH. 
 
 Shell-Fish on the Half-Shell 
 
 {Huttres) 163 
 
 Oysters on the Half Shell. . 163 
 Oysters in a Block of Ice. . . 164 
 
 Oysters in Ice 165 
 
 Cold Canned Oysters 166 
 
 Little-Neck Clams on the 
 Half-Shell 166 
 
xu 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 SOUPS {Potage). 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Soup Stock 168 
 
 Clear Soup or Consomm6. . 170 
 
 The Clarifying of Fat 171 
 
 Caramel 171 
 
 Bouillon 171 
 
 Clear Soup with Royale 
 
 Paste 172 
 
 Spring Soup with Vegetables 172 
 
 Case of Vegetable Cutters . . 173 
 
 Ox-Tail Soup 173 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup 174 
 
 Brown Turkey Soup. 175 
 
 Chicken Soup 176 
 
 Puree Sieve 177 
 
 Chicken and Rice Soup, or 
 
 Potage a la Reine 177 
 
 Cream of Asparagus 178 
 
 Onion Soup 178 
 
 Celery Soup 179 
 
 Cream of Fresh Mushrooms. 179 
 
 Cream of Cauliflowers 180 
 
 Bain-Marie 181 
 
 Tomato Cream Soup 181 
 
 String- Bean Soup 182 
 
 Green-Pea Soup 182 
 
 Okra Soup with Crabs 183 
 
 Okra Soup with Beef 184 
 
 Dried Okra Soup 184 
 
 Ham and Pea Soup 185 
 
 Dried Bean Soup 185 
 
 Turtle Bean Soup 186 
 
 Oyster Cream Soup 187 
 
 Fried Crusts for Soup 187 
 
 Oyster Soup with Eggs 18S 
 
 Soft Clara Soup with To- 
 matoes 188 
 
 Cream of Fluke i8g 
 
 Crayfish Soup or Bisque. ... 18; 
 
 Bisque of Prawns 190 
 
 Lobster Soup igi 
 
 Crab Soup 191 
 
 Terrapin Clear Soup 192 
 
 How to Kill Green Turtle. . 192 
 
 How to Boil Green Turtle. . 194 
 
 Green Turtle Soup-Stock. . . 194 
 
 Green Turtle Thick Soup. . 196 
 
 Egg-Balls for Soup 196 
 
 Forcemeat-Balls for Soup. . igb 
 
 Green Turtle Clear Soup. . . 197 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FISH AND SHELL-FISH {Poisson). 
 
 How to Thaw Frozen Fish. 199 
 
 Large Fish Boiled in Slices . 199 
 Boiled Turbot with Lobster 
 
 Sauce 200 
 
 Lobster Sauce 200 
 
 Boiled Halibut 200 
 
 Fried Halibut 201 
 
 Fluke Boned and Baked. . . . 201 
 
 Bluefish Baked Whole 202 
 
 Slices of Fish Boiled 203 
 
 Shrimp or Prawn Sauce .... 204 
 
 White Sauce 204 
 
 Boiled Pike with Caper 
 
 Sauce 204 
 
 Caper Sauce 205 
 
 Pike 205 
 
 Pickerel 205 
 
 Fried Blackfish 205 
 
 Larded Fish 206 
 
 Fried Cod and Haddock 206 
 
 Tron9on of Fish 206 
 
 Boiled Bass 207 
 
 Hot Mustard Sauce 207 
 
 Bass 208 
 
 Boiled Sheep's-Head 208 
 
 Cream Sauce 208 
 
 Redsnapper 209 
 
 Whitefish 209 
 
 Darne of Salmon 209 
 
 Boiled Salmon 2io 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Anchovy Sauce 2io 
 
 Salmon 210 
 
 Fresh Mackerel Fried. 210 
 
 Spanish Mackerel Broiled. . 2H 
 Broiled Pompano, Cucum- 
 ber Sauce 211 
 
 Cucumber Sauce 212 
 
 To Keep Shad Overnight.. . 212 
 
 Broiled Shad Z12 
 
 Fried Shad 213 
 
 Shad-Roe 213 
 
 Eels 214 
 
 Fried Smelts on Skewers. . . 214 
 
 Broiled Smelts 215 
 
 Fried Butterfish 215 
 
 American White-Bait 2i6 
 
 Old Style of Frying White- 
 Bait 216 
 
 Trout with Cream Gravy. . . 217 
 
 Fried Trout 217 
 
 Boiled Trout 217 
 
 New England Fish-Chowder 217 
 
 Clam-Chowder 218 
 
 Salt-Fish Dinner 219 
 
 Melted Butter 219 
 
 Salt-Fish Hash 220 
 
 Cod's Tongues with Egg 
 
 Sauce 220 
 
 Boiled Salt Mackerel with 
 
 Butter 221 
 
 Clarified Butter 221 
 
 Dried Salmon 222 
 
 Salted Shad 222 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Diamond-Back Terrapin . . . 222 
 
 How to Boil Terrapin 223 
 
 How to Dress Terrapin .... 224 
 
 Brown Stew of Terrapin. . . 224 
 
 Stewed Terrapin with Cream 225 
 
 Green Turtle 225 
 
 Green Turtle Fried 226 
 
 To Prepare Frogs' Legs 226 
 
 Boiled Lobster 227 
 
 Scalloped Lobster 227 
 
 Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 228 
 
 Lobster Chops or Cutlets. . . 228 
 
 Scalloped Prawns or Shrimp 229 
 
 Soft-Shell Crabs Fried 229 
 
 Soft-Shell Crabs Broiled 230 
 
 Crabs Scalloped 230 
 
 Devilled Crabs 231 
 
 Kromeskeys of Crab 232 
 
 Mussels 233 
 
 Scallops Fried in Indian 
 
 Meal 234 
 
 Fried Soft Clams 234 
 
 Scalloped Clams 234 
 
 Clam Fritters 235 
 
 Oyster Patties 235 
 
 Fried Oysters 236 
 
 Roast Oysters 237 
 
 Stewed Oysters 238 
 
 Pickled Oysters 238 
 
 Vol-au-vent of Oysters 239 
 
 Ragout of Oysters for Vol- 
 au-vent 240 
 
 CHAPTER IV. > 
 
 RKLISHES {Hors-d'auvres). 
 
 Timbales, Patties. Bou- 
 chfees, Rissoles and Cocks- 
 combs. 
 
 Tongue Toast 
 
 Ham Tdast 
 
 Caviare Toast 
 
 Smoked Fish for Relishes. . 
 
 Sandwich Butter 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 Canap^es , 
 
 Bouch^es 
 
 242 
 243 
 243 
 243 
 244 
 244 
 245 
 245 
 245 
 
 Rissoles 
 
 Spiced Veal 
 
 Veal Loaf 
 
 Jellied Chicken 
 
 Pickled Chicken 
 
 Peanuts Roasted with Salt.. 
 
 Salted Almonds 
 
 Walnuts and Wine 
 
 Girard Boiled Chestnuts 
 
 The Girard Nut Sandwich. . 
 Welsh Rarebit 
 
 245 
 245 
 246 
 246 
 
 247 
 247 
 247 
 248 
 
 24* 
 249 
 249 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Golden Buck 250 
 
 Yorkshire Rarebit 256 
 
 Cheese Straws and Crusts . . 250 
 
 Cheese Puffs 251 
 
 Potted Cheese 252 
 
 Easter Eggs 252 
 
 Hard-Boiled Eggs 253 
 
 Turkey, Geese, and Duck 
 
 Eggs 253 
 
 Steamed Eggs 253 
 
 Broiled Eggs 253 
 
 Shirred Eggs 254 
 
 Poached Eggs with Ham. . . 254 
 Frirzled-Beef and Eggs .... 255 
 
 Fried Eggs 255 
 
 Scrambled Eggs 255 
 
 Omelets 255 
 
 Sardine Omelet 256 
 
 Omelet with Mushrooms 256 
 
 Rice Omelet 257 
 
 Onnelet with Jelly 257 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Pineapple Omelet 258 
 
 Tomato Catsup 258 
 
 Sealing- Wax for Pickle Jars 258 
 
 Cucumber Catsup 258 
 
 Oyster Catsup 259 
 
 Chili Sauce 259 
 
 Chow-Chow 260 
 
 Pickled Cabbage 260 
 
 Pickled Tomatoes 260 
 
 Ripe Tomato Pickles 261 , 
 
 Sweet Pickle of Beets 261 
 
 Pickled Onions 262 
 
 Grated Cucumber Pickle. . . . 262 
 
 Spiced ^ Gherkins 263 
 
 Pickled Martinoes 264 
 
 Pickled Peaches 264 
 
 Peach Mangoes 265 
 
 Damson Sauce for Meats. . . 265 
 
 Cider Apple-Sauce 266 
 
 Quince and Apple Butter. . . 266 
 
 Pumpkin Sauce 266 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SIDE-DISHES OP MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME (Entries). 
 
 Broiled Round of Beef 268 
 
 Porterhouse Steak Broiled . 268 
 Fried Beefsteak with Onion 
 
 Sauce 268 
 
 Brown Onion Sauce 269 
 
 Beefsteak Smothered in 
 
 Onions 269 
 
 Cold Roast Beef Broiled. . . 270 
 Cold Roast Beef Fried ..... 270 
 
 How to Clean Tripe 270 
 
 Rolls of Tripe, Creole Style 272 
 Beef-Kidney Broiled with 
 
 Bacon 273 
 
 Beef-Kidney Stewed 273 
 
 Fried Liver and Bacon with 
 
 Spinach 273 
 
 Calf's Liver Rolls 274 
 
 Cutlets Clouts with Truffles. 275 
 Cutlets with Truffles, Gar- 
 nished 276 
 
 Veal Cutlet Breaded, with 
 
 Tomatoes 277 
 
 Veal Pot-Pie 277 
 
 Frica:ndeau of Veal, Larded. 278 
 Larded Fricandeaux, Gar- 
 nished ; . 286 
 
 Sweetbread Croquettes 281 
 
 Bra:in Croquettes 282 
 
 Broiled Sweetbreads 282 
 
 Fried Sweetbreads 282 
 
 Sweetbreads in the Chafing- 
 
 Dish 283 
 
 Ragout of Sweetbreads and 
 Mushrooms for Vol-au- 
 
 Vent 283 
 
 How to Boil Calf's Head 
 
 and Feet. , 283 
 
 Calf's Head like Turtle 284 
 
 Broiled Calf's Head 285 
 
 Calf's Brains 286 
 
 Fried Brains 286 
 
 Calf 's Tongue and Brains.. 286 
 Lamb Cutlets with Finati- 
 
 cifere Ragofit 287 
 
 Broiled Lamb Cutlets with 
 Mint Sauce 287 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lamb Cutlets in Paper 288 
 
 Frizzled Mutton 289 
 
 Broiled Mutton Chops 289 
 
 Fried Mutton Chops 289 
 
 Paper Frills for the Bones of 
 
 Chops, etc 2go 
 
 Pork Chops and Apples 291 
 
 Minced Fresh Pork 291 
 
 Fried Sour Apples 292 
 
 Jowl 292 
 
 Fried Salt Pork and Apples. 292 
 Corned - Beef Hash, New- 
 England Style 293 
 
 Frizzled Beef 293 
 
 Frizzled Ham 293 
 
 Fried Ham 294 
 
 Broiled Ham 294 
 
 Game Pie 294 
 
 Reed- Bird Pie 296 
 
 Stewed Snipe 296 
 
 Prairie Chickens Stewed 
 
 Whole 297 
 
 Boiled Partridge with Cream 
 
 Sauce 297 
 
 Stewed Squirrels 297 
 
 Squirrel-Pie 298 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fricassee of Rabbits 299 
 
 Venison in Chafing-Dish. . . 299 
 
 Forest City Sauce 299 
 
 Frizzled Venison 299 
 
 Pastry for Meat and Game 
 
 Pies 300 
 
 Venison Pie 300 
 
 Venison Pasty 301 
 
 Broiled Spring Chicken with 
 
 Cauliflower 302 
 
 Spring Chicken Fried in 
 
 Cream 303 
 
 Chicken Fried with Okra. . . 303 
 
 Boiled Rice 304 
 
 Chicken Fried with Salt Pork 304 
 
 Fricassee of Chicken 305 
 
 Pullet with Toulouse Ragout 305 
 
 Chicken Quenelles 305 
 
 Chicken- Pie 306 
 
 Chicken Croquettes 307 
 
 Turkey-Hash 309 
 
 Stewed or Potted Pigeons . . 309 
 
 Squab-Pie 310 
 
 Foie-Gras with Truffles .... 310 
 Truffles 311 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY {ReUvis). 
 
 Ribs of Beef Boned and 
 
 Rolled 312 
 
 Baked Beef 314 
 
 Beef i la Mode, with Stuff- 
 ing 314 
 
 Beef i. la Daube 315 
 
 Larded Filet of Beef with 
 
 Tomatoes 315 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef with Spa- 
 ghetti, Milanaise Style... 316 
 
 Fresh Tongue, Boiled 316 
 
 Robert Sauce 317 
 
 Hind-Quarter of Veal 317 
 
 Larded Cantons of Lamb. . . 318 
 
 Boiled Mutton ... 319 
 
 Baked Fresh Pork 319 
 
 Baked Pork with Potatoes . . 321 
 Baked Tenderloins 321 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes 322 
 
 Stuffed Apples 322 
 
 Hand of Fresh Pork 322 
 
 Broiled Pork with Chili 
 
 Sauce 323 
 
 Chili Sauce 323 
 
 How to Dress a Roasting- 
 
 Pig 323 
 
 Baked Sucking-Pig 324 
 
 Salting and Smoking Meat . 325 
 
 Salting Meat for Smoking . 328 
 
 How to Pickle Meat 329 
 
 Smoking Meat 329 
 
 Knickerbocker Dried Beef. . 329 
 
 How to Cure Hams 330 
 
 Ham Cooked in Cider 331 
 
 Plain Boiled Ham 331 
 
 Baked or Roast Ham 331 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To Smoke a Mutton Ham . . 332 
 
 Boiled Mutton Ham 332 
 
 New- England Salt Pork 332 
 
 How to Try Out Lard 333 
 
 Boiled Pork and Parsneps.. 334 
 Old New-York Style of Cur- 
 ing Bacon 334 
 
 Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. 335 
 
 Boar's Head 333 
 
 A New-England Boiled Din- 
 ner 337 
 
 Corned Beef Brisket 338 
 
 Mustard Sauce 338 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Beef's Heart, Corned 339 
 
 Pickled Beef's Tongues 34° 
 
 Boiled Tongue 34° 
 
 Baked Tongue 34° 
 
 Boiled Turkey with Oyster 
 
 Sauce 340 
 
 Oyster Sauce 341 
 
 Boiled Turkey with Celery 
 
 Sauce 341 
 
 Boiled Chicken 341 
 
 Cream Onion Sauce 342 
 
 How to Preserve Baked and 
 
 Roasted Meats 342 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROASTS {R6tis). 
 
 Roast Beef 344 
 
 Roast Lamb with Sorrel- 
 Sauce 345 
 
 Sorrel-Sauce 345 
 
 Hind-Quarter of Lamb 346 
 
 Roast Lamb 346 
 
 Saddle of Lamb Roasted. . . 347 
 
 Cucumber Sauce 347 
 
 Saddle of Mutton 347 
 
 Bear Meat 348 
 
 Buffalo 348 
 
 Broiled Venison 348 
 
 Fried Venison 349 
 
 Baked Saddle of Venison. . . 349 
 
 Roast Venison 349 
 
 Larded Saddle of Venison. . 350 
 
 Shoulder of Venison Larded. 350 
 How to Skin Rabbits, Hares, 
 
 and Squirrels 350 
 
 Hare Barded and Roasted. . 351 
 
 Hare Larded and Baked . . . 351 
 
 Ortolans, or Snow-Buntings. 352 
 
 Broiled Ortolans 352 
 
 Fried Reed-Birds 353 
 
 Broiled Reed-Birds 353 
 
 Woodcock on Toast 353 
 
 Fried Woodcock 354 
 
 Snipe Fried in Oil 354 
 
 Snipe Broiled Whole 355 
 
 Roast Plover 355 
 
 Quail Barded and Roasted . 356 
 
 Roast Quail 356 
 
 Baked Quail 357 
 
 Broiled Canvas-Back Duck. 357 
 Roast Canvas-Back Duck . . 35S 
 Canvas-Back Duck, Phila- 
 delphia Style 358 
 
 Broiled Canvas-Back Duck, 
 
 Delmonico Style 358 
 
 Roast Wild Duck 358 
 
 Filets of Wild Duck, with 
 
 Orange-Sauce 359 
 
 Roast Widgeon 359 
 
 Orange Essence Sauce 359 
 
 Roast Teal 360 
 
 Onion-Sauce 360 
 
 Roast Prairie Chickens or 
 
 Grouse 360 
 
 Prairie Chickens Broiled . . . 361 
 
 Broiled Partridge 361 
 
 Roast Partridge 362 
 
 Roast Ptarmigan 362 
 
 Pheasants Garnished with 
 
 Snipe 362 
 
 Roast Guinea-Fawl 363 
 
 Boned Squabs and Pigeons. 363 
 
 Roast Turkey Poult 364 
 
 Roast Turkey 365 
 
 Giblet StuflSng 365 
 
 Salt-Pork Stuffing 365 
 
 Suet Stuffing 365 
 
 Potato Stuffing 366 
 
CO A' TENTS. 
 
 PAGR 
 
 Roast Turkey Partly Boned. 366 
 
 Oyster Force-Meat 367 
 
 Roast Turkey with Truffles. 367 
 
 Larded Turkey 3C8 
 
 Implements for Larding and 
 
 Trussing 369 
 
 Spring Chicken, Broiled . . . 369 
 Barded Chicken or Game . . 370 
 Spring Chicken, Baked .... 370 
 Roast Chicken with Chest- 
 nuts 371 
 
 Roast Goose and Gosling . . 371 
 
 Green Apple Sauce 371 
 
 Sorrel-Sauce 372 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Gooseberry-Sauce 372 
 
 Green Sauce for Goslings or 
 
 Geese 372 
 
 Brown Gravy for Roast 
 
 Goose or Gosling 373 
 
 Giblet Gravy for Roast 
 
 Goose or Gosling 373 
 
 Ducklings, 01 Spring Ducks. 374 
 Roast Ducklings with Or- 
 ange Sauce 374 
 
 Duckling with Onions 374 
 
 Duck with Orange Sauce. . . 375 
 Orange Sauce 375 
 
 CHAPTER Vin. 
 SALADS AND VEGETABLES (Salades et Entremets). 
 
 Watercress Salad 378 
 
 French Salad Dressing 378 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers 379 
 
 Cream Salad Dressing 379 
 
 Pepper Salad 379 
 
 Onion and Tomato Salad. . . 379 
 
 Vegetable Scoops 380 
 
 Tomatoes with Mayonnaise. 380 
 
 Cold Slaw 382 
 
 Hot Slaw 382 
 
 Cheese Salad 382 
 
 Salads of Cooked Vegetables 382 
 
 Potato Salad 383 
 
 American Potato Salad .... 383 
 
 Beet and Potato Salad 383 
 
 Salad of French Beans .... 384 
 Jerusalem Artichoke Salad. 384 
 
 Fruit Salads 384 
 
 Mayonnaise for Salad 385 
 
 Salmon Salad 386 
 
 Chicken Salad 386 
 
 Sweetbread Salad 387 
 
 Oyster Salad 387 
 
 Shad-Roe Salad 387 
 
 Shrimp Salad 387 
 
 Hot Lobster Salad 388 
 
 Lobster Salad 389 
 
 New Potatoes ... 389 
 
 Bermuda Potatoes 390 
 
 Boiled Potatoes 390 
 
 Baked Potatoes 391 
 
 Mashed Potatoes 391 
 
 Potato Straws 391 
 
 Brown Hashed Potatoes... 392 
 
 Fried Potatoes 392 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes 392 
 
 Julienne- Potatoes 393 
 
 Fluted Vegetable Knife .... 393 
 Sweet Potatoes Fried with 
 
 Pork 394 
 
 Boiled Sweet Potatoes 394 
 
 Stuffed Sweet Potatoes 394 
 
 Sweet Potato Pudding 395 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes 395 
 
 Globe Artichokes 396 
 
 Globe Artichokes, Boiled . . 397 
 
 Dutch or Hollandaise Sauce. 398 
 
 Green Pease, Boiled 398 
 
 Sugar Pease 399 
 
 Canned Pease 399 
 
 String-Beans 399 
 
 Canned String-Beans 400 
 
 Stewed Butter-Beans 400 
 
 Lima Beans 400 
 
 Stewed Kidney-Beans 401 
 
 Dried White Beans 401 
 
 Green Corn Boiled 402 
 
 How to Warm Cold Corn . . 402 
 
 Green Corn Roasted 402 
 
 Green Corn Stewed 403 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Green Corn Pudding 403 
 
 Green Corn Griddle-Cakes 
 
 and Fritters 403 
 
 Succotash I. . 404 
 
 How to Can Corn 404 
 
 Dried Corn 405 
 
 Canned Corn, Stewed 405 
 
 Dried Corn Hulled with Lye. 405 
 Dried Corn Hulled with Sal- 
 
 eratus 406 
 
 Stewed Hominy 406 
 
 Succotash from Dried Samp 
 
 and Beans 406 
 
 Succotash of Dried Corn and 
 
 Beans 407 
 
 Oyster- Plant with Cream. . . 407 
 
 Sea-Kale 408 
 
 Asparagus 408 
 
 Asparagus with Dutch Sauce 409 
 
 Sugar Beets Boiled 409 
 
 New Turnips 410 
 
 Carrots 410 
 
 Mushrooms 411 
 
 Fresh Mushrooms Broiled. . 415 
 Fresh Mushrooms Baked. . . 415 
 Mushroom Stems Stewed. . . 415 
 To Dry Fresh Mushrooms. . 416 
 
 Mushroom Powder 416 
 
 Canned Mushrooms with 
 
 Cream Sauce 416 
 
 Morels 417 
 
 Stuffed Morels 418 
 
 Mushroom Brown Sauce... 418 
 Fried Cucumbers on Toast.. 418 
 Cucumbers Stuffed with Mar- 
 row 419 
 
 Egg-Plant Fried in Butter. . 419 
 Egg-Plant Fried in Batter. . 419 
 Scalloped Egg-Plant 420 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Baked Egg-Plant 421 
 
 Boiled Cabbage 421 
 
 Fried Cabbage 422 
 
 Red Cabbage Stewed 422 
 
 Sauerkraut 422 
 
 Cauliflower 423 
 
 Spinach. .■ 424 
 
 Boiled Turnip-Tops 424 
 
 Boiled Celery 425 
 
 Butter and Lemon Sauce. . . 425 
 Celery with Remoulade 
 
 Sauce 426 
 
 German Remoulade Sauce. . 426 
 Green Remoulade Sauce . . . 426 
 
 Celery Fritters 427 
 
 Fried Parsley 427 
 
 Okra 427 
 
 Green Peppers, Stuffed and 
 
 Baked 428 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes 428 
 
 Fried Tomatoes with Brown 
 
 Gravy 429 
 
 Broiled Tomatoes 429 
 
 Stewed Tomatoes 430 
 
 Canned Tomatoes 430 
 
 Parsneps with Cream 431 
 
 Salt Pork and Parsneps 431 
 
 Broiled Parsneps 431 
 
 Bermuda Onions Boiled. . . . 432 
 
 Boiled Onions 432 
 
 Spanish Onions Fried 432 
 
 Scalloped Onions 432 
 
 Boiled Leeks 433 
 
 Boiled Squash 433 
 
 Baked Yellow Squash 434 
 
 Summer Squash 434 
 
 Summer Squash Stewed. . . . 434 
 Macaroni and Spaghetti .... 435 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SECOND-COURSE SWEETS (Entremtts). 
 
 St. Honor6 Cake 436 
 
 St. Honorfe Custard 437 
 
 To Glagfe Fruit 438 
 
 St. Honors Cake, to Shape.. 438 
 
 Rum Buns. 
 
 439 
 
 Bath Buns 440 
 
 Brioche \ 440 
 
 Brioche Ring 442 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Almond Macaroons 443 
 
 Almond Biscuit. 443 
 
 Almond Cake 443 
 
 Lady Cake 444 
 
 Pineapple Cake 444 
 
 Orange Cake 444 
 
 Citron Pound Cake 444 
 
 Plum Cake 445 
 
 Sponge Cake 445 
 
 Lady-Fingers 447 
 
 Charlotte Russe 447 
 
 Whipped Cream 448 
 
 Paper Cases for Small Char- 
 lottes 449 
 
 Cake Baked in Paper 449 
 
 Plain Icing for Cakes 451 
 
 Boiled Icing 451 
 
 Tutti Frutti Icing 451 
 
 Confectioner's Icing 451 
 
 Fruit Icing 452 
 
 Fruit-Cream Icing. 452 
 
 Corn-Starch Icing 452 
 
 Almond Icing 452 
 
 Paper Cones for Icing .... 452 
 
 Omelette Souffle 454 
 
 Almond SoufHfe 455 
 
 Salamanders 45 7 
 
 Boiled and Steamed Pud- 
 dings 457 
 
 Hot Cabinet-Pudding, Rum 
 
 Sauce 458 
 
 Forest-City Rum Sauce .... 458 
 Christmas Plum-Pudding . . 459 
 
 Brandy Sauce 460 
 
 Boiled Batter- Pudding . . . . 460 
 
 Fruit Sauce 461 
 
 Brandy Hard Sauce 461 
 
 Boiled Bread-Pudding 461 
 
 Caramel Sauce 461 
 
 Boiled Apple-Pudding 462 
 
 Egg Pudding-Sauce 462 
 
 Boiled Huckleberry - Pud- 
 ding, with Eggs 462 
 
 Berry Sauce 463 
 
 Boiled Rice Dumplings .... 463 
 
 Maple-Sugar Sauce 464 
 
 Baked Puddings 464 
 
 Baked Plum-Pudding 464 
 
 Baked Indian-Pudding 465 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lemon- Pudding 465 
 
 Cocoanut - Pudding with 
 
 Sponge-Cake 465 
 
 Grape-Pudding 466 
 
 Marlborough-Pudding 466 
 
 Pies and Tarts 466 
 
 Puff- Paste 467 
 
 Patfe d'OfBce 471 
 
 Fruit Patties 472 
 
 Cream Crust 472 
 
 Lard Pie-Crust 474 
 
 Good Plain Pastry 474 
 
 Christmas Mince-Meat 476 
 
 Plain Mince-Meat 477 
 
 Fruit Mince-Pies 478 
 
 Apple and Pie-Plant Pie . . . 478 
 Rhubarb-Pie, New-England 
 
 Style 479 
 
 Cherry-Tart 479 
 
 Raspberry-Pie 481 
 
 Gooseberry-Tart 481 
 
 Forest-City Lemon-Pie 481 
 
 Sweet-Potato Pie, Philadel- 
 phia Style 482 
 
 Squash-Pie 482 
 
 Pumpkin-Pie 483 
 
 Peach Tarts 483 
 
 Pineapple Tarts 484 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings. . . 484 
 
 Pear Dumplings 485 
 
 Fresh Apple Pan-Dowdy. . . 485 
 Dried Apple Pan-Dowdy... 485 
 Hot and Cold Breads, Frit- 
 ters and Griddle-Cakes. . . 486 
 
 Home-Made Bread 486 
 
 Compressed-Yeast Bread.. . 487 
 
 Breakfast Rolls 489 
 
 Potato Rolls 490 
 
 Parker-House Rolls 491 
 
 Astor-House Rolls 491 
 
 Baking-Powder Biscuit .... 492 
 
 Buttermilk Biscuit 492 
 
 Beaten Biscuit 492 
 
 Raised Biscuit 493 
 
 Graham Gems and Biscuit. . 493 
 Raised Graham Biscuit .... 494 
 
 Huckleberry Biscuit 494 
 
 Sour-Cream Biscuit. : 494 
 
 Shortcakes 494 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Raised Shortcake 495 
 
 Egg Corn-Bread 495 
 
 New- England Corn-Bread. . 496 
 New-England Brown-Bread. 496 
 Graham and Indian Bread. . 496 
 
 Raised Graham Bread 497 
 
 Raised Sweet-Potato Bread. 497 
 
 Sweet-Potato Pone 498 
 
 Wheat Muffins 498 
 
 Raised Muffins 498 
 
 Rye Muffins 499 
 
 Pop-Overs 499 
 
 Egg- Puffs 500 
 
 Raised Waffles 500 
 
 Sweet-Potato Waffles 500 
 
 Corn Waffles 500 
 
 Rice Waffles 501 
 
 Raised Rice Waffles 501 
 
 Rice Pancakes 501 
 
 Fried Rice 501 
 
 Fried Bread 502 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fritter Batter 502 
 
 Orange Fritters . . .* 502 
 
 Pineapple Fritters 503 
 
 Old- Fashioned Doughnuts . . 503 
 New-England Fried-Cakes . 504 
 Whortleberry Fried-Cakes. . 504 
 
 Crullers with Eggs 505 
 
 Crullers with Baking-Pow- 
 
 der 506 
 
 Pan-Doddles 507 
 
 Indian Slap-jacks 507 
 
 Army Slap-jacks 508 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes 508 
 
 Raised Buckwheat C^kes ... 508 
 
 Indian Griddle-Cakes 508 
 
 Spider-Cake 509 
 
 Huckleberry Spider-Cake . . 509 
 
 Spider-Cake Toast 510 
 
 Butter Toast 510 
 
 Milk Toast 510 
 
 Water Toast 511 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 DESSERT (Dessert). 
 
 Cream Meringues 512 
 
 Italian Cream 513 
 
 Cannelons with Cream 514 
 
 Bavarian Cream 514 
 
 Calf's-Foot Jelly 515 
 
 Madeira Jelly 516 
 
 • Noyeau Jelly 516 
 
 Oranges with Jelly 517 
 
 Chartreuse of Candied Or- 
 anges 517 
 
 Spinning Sugar 518 
 
 Degrees of boiling Sugar. . . 520 
 
 The Thread 520 
 
 The Pearl 520 
 
 The Blow .; 520 
 
 The Feather 521 
 
 The Ball 521 
 
 The Crack 521 
 
 Caramel 521 
 
 To Prevent Granulation in 
 
 Boiling Sugar 521 
 
 Nougat 522 
 
 How to Reduce Boiling 
 
 Sugar a Degree 522 
 
 Freezing-Tub for Frozen 
 
 Puddings 523 
 
 Frozen Cabinet-Pudding. . . 523 
 Confectioners' Nesselrode 
 
 Pudding 524 
 
 Francatelli's Nesselrode 
 
 Pudding 525 
 
 Coffee Bombe 525 
 
 Ice-Creams 526 
 
 Plain Ice-Cream 527 
 
 Frozen Custard 527 
 
 Philadelphia Ice-Cream. . . . 527 
 
 Vanilla Ice-Cream 528 
 
 French Ice-Cream 528 
 
 Coffee Ice-Cream. 528 
 
 Brown-Bread Ice-Cream . . . 528 
 
 Fancy Ice-Creams and Ices. 529 
 
 Neapolitan Ice-Cream .... 529 
 
 Pistache Ice-Cream 529 
 
 Tutti Frutti 529 
 
COiVTENTS. 
 
 XXI 
 
 Plum-Pudding Glacfe 529 
 
 Fruit Ice-Creams 530 
 
 Fruit-Ices 530 
 
 Water-Ices. 531 
 
 Roman Punch 531 
 
 Roman-Punch Glac6 531 
 
 Champagne-Ice 531 
 
 Freezing-Tub for Small Ices 532 i 
 
 Canned Fruit 532 1 
 
 Preserves and Jellies 533 1 
 
 Jelly-Bags 534. 
 
 Pineapple Jelly 536 | 
 
 Sugared Pineapple 536 
 
 Pineapple Preserves 537 
 
 Crab-Apple Jelly 537 
 
 Crab-Apple Jelly with Lem- 
 on 537 
 
 Crab-Apple Preserve 538 
 
 Apple-Jelly 538 
 
 Apple Marmalade 538 
 
 New-England Apple-Jam . . 539 
 
 Plum Marmalade 539 
 
 Plum-Jam 540 
 
 Plum-Jelly 540 
 
 Brandied Green-Gage Plums 540 
 
 Preserved Pears 541 
 
 Pear Marmalade 541 
 
 Pear-Jam 542 
 
 Sugared Quinces 542 
 
 Quinces Preserved Whole . . 543 
 
 Quince-Jelly 543 
 
 Preserved Peaches 543 
 
 Peach-Jelly 544 
 
 Jellied Peaches 544 
 
 Peach Marmalade 545 
 
 Brandy Peaches 545 
 
 Apricot Marmalade 546 
 
 Apricot Preserves and Jelly 546 
 
 Cherry Preserves 546 
 
 Cherry Marmalade 546 
 
 Brandied Cherries 547 
 
 Raspberry Preserves 547 
 
 Mrs. Charles Thornton Ad- 
 ams's Raspberry Jam.... 548 
 Raspberry and Currant Jam 548 
 
 Currant-Jam 549 
 
 Currant-Jelly 549 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Blackberry and Apple-Jam. 549 
 
 Barberry-Jam 549 
 
 Barberry-Jelly 550 
 
 Barberry-Jam 550 
 
 Preserved Mulberries 550 
 
 Preserved Elderberries 551 
 
 Elderberry and Grape Jelly 551 
 
 Preserved Grapes 552 
 
 Grape Jelly 553 
 
 Gooseberries Preserved 
 
 Whole 552 
 
 Jellied Gooseberries 553 
 
 Red-Gooseberry Jam 553 
 
 Green-Gooseberry Jam 554 
 
 Jellied Cranberries 554 
 
 Rhubarb-Jelly 555 
 
 Rhubarb Marmalade 555 
 
 Rhubarb- Jam 555 
 
 Strawberry Preserves 556 
 
 Wiesbaden Preserves 557 
 
 Strawberry-Jam 557 
 
 Florida Orange Marmalade. 558 
 
 Preserved Tomatoes 558 
 
 Tomato-Jelly 559 
 
 Tomato-Jam 559 
 
 Tomato-Figs 559 
 
 Preserved Citron Melon 560 
 
 Watermelon Preserve 560 
 
 Preserved Pumpkin 560 
 
 Preserved Grape-Fruit 561 
 
 Tuttl Frutti Preserve 561 
 
 Baked Apples 562 
 
 Stewed Gooseberries 562 
 
 Fried Bananas 563 
 
 Fried Peaches 563 
 
 Peaches Stewed in Wine . . , 563 
 
 Pineapples 564 
 
 Iced Pineapple 565 
 
 Bananas and Oranges 565 
 
 Ambrosia 565 
 
 Iced Raspberries for Dessert 566 
 
 Iced Strawberries 566 
 
 Strawberries with Whipped 
 
 Cream 566 
 
 Peaches with Oranges 567 
 
 Grape-Fruit for Breakfast. . 567 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BEVERAGES, AND SUGGESTIONS FOR THE DIET OF INVALIDS AND 
 CHILDREN. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Filtering Water or Sirup 570 
 
 Coffee 570 
 
 French Coffee 572 
 
 Caf^Noir.. 572 
 
 Gloria 572 
 
 Tea 573 
 
 Chocolate 573 
 
 Cocoa 573 
 
 Hot Coffee and Soda 574 
 
 Pineapple Lemonade 574 
 
 Currant- Water 574 
 
 Cherry- Water 575 
 
 Cherry Sirup ... 575 
 
 Blackberry Sirup 575 
 
 Florida Orange Wine 575 
 
 New-England Boiled Cider. 576 
 
 Dixie Pineapple Cider 576 
 
 West-Indian Pineapple Shrub 577 
 
 Pineapple Rum Shrub 577 
 
 Currant Shrub 577 
 
 Pineapple Brandy 578 
 
 Cherry Brandy 578 
 
 Raspberry Brandy 578 
 
 Raspberry Liqueur 579 
 
 Blackberry Brandy 579 
 
 Blackberry Cordial 579 
 
 Peach Brandy 580 
 
 Peach and Honey 580 
 
 Cider-Cup 580 
 
 Claret-Cup 581 
 
 Champagne-Cup 581 
 
 Roman Punch 581 
 
 Punch i la Romaine 581 
 
 Capillaire for Eau Sucr6. . . . 582 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Virginia Verder, or Bottled 
 
 Milk-Punch 582 
 
 Milk-Punch 582 
 
 White Tiger's-Milk 582 
 
 Hot Apple-Toddy 583 
 
 Egg-Nog 583 
 
 Egg and Sherry 583 
 
 Half-and-Hal£ 583 
 
 Egg-Flip 584 
 
 Porter Sangaree 584 
 
 Port- Wine Sangaree 584 
 
 Mulled Wine 584 
 
 Mint Julep 584 
 
 Sherry Cobbler 585 
 
 Whiskey Punch 585 
 
 Beef -Tea 585 
 
 Beef-Juice on Toast 585 
 
 Clear Clam-Broth 586 
 
 Steamed Clams 586 
 
 Dry Toast 586 
 
 Broiled Oysters 586 
 
 Broiled Squabs 586 
 
 Milk Porridge 587 
 
 Rice-Gruel 587 
 
 Water-Gruel 587 
 
 Rice and Barley Waters. ... 587 
 
 Panada 587 
 
 Caudle 588 
 
 Home-Made Granula 588 
 
 Rennet Curds 588 
 
 Rennet Whey 588 
 
 Bread Jelly 589 
 
 Cranberry and Sago Jelly. . . 589 
 Dishes for Children 589 
 
PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Part I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 
 
 THE KITCHEN. 
 
 THE fitting-up and care of the kitchen have been so 
 often treated by writers upon domestic matters, that 
 comparatively little space need be given to the subject here ; 
 only a few outlines which every housekeeper can fill by the 
 exercise of her own taste and judgment. If possible, have 
 the kitchen upon the level of the ground ; or, if it must be 
 in the basement of a house, take care that plenty of light 
 and air reach it. If daylight does not flood every comer of 
 it, supply artificial light, even in the daytime ; for no domestic 
 operation requires more light than the treatment of food. 
 Painting the wood-work and floor a light color is of use in 
 this particular. In some of the modem houses where there 
 are elevators, the kitchen and laundry are placed in the top 
 story, greatly to the comfort of all the inmates of the house, 
 who thus escape all odors- of cooking and washing. 
 
 Equally with light is cleanliness important in the kitchen. 
 The cleaning of floors is considered in the chapter on The 
 Dining-room. The walls of a kitchen should be of some 
 hard finish, either panelled wood, tiles, or plastering which 
 can be covered with ■whitewash or kalsomine coloring. 
 
2 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Any lime wash is desirable for the kitchen, because it 
 tends to keep the air pure if frequently applied. The follow- 
 ing will be found excellent : Half fill a large pail with quick- 
 lime ; pour upon it one gallon of cold water, and stir it 
 until ebuUition ceases ; then stir in one pint of linseed-oil, 
 and add enough more cold water to make the wash of the 
 consistency of thin paste. Copperas-water used in place of 
 cold water will make the wash disinfectant to a certain de- 
 gree. The use of skim-milk instead of the first cold water 
 will make a wash which will resist the action of water. 
 Apply the wash with a broad flat brush, moving it up and 
 down the walls with even strokes. The so-called White 
 House wash is made by slacking half a bushel of quicklime 
 with boiling water, keeping it covered "until ebullition ceases ; 
 meantime a peck of salt is dissolved in warm water, and 
 three pounds of ground rice are made into a thin paste by 
 boiling it with water ; a pound of clean glue is dissolved in 
 warm water at the same time, and half a pound of Spanish 
 whiting is powdered ; all these ingredients are mixed to- 
 gether, with the addition of enough boiling water to make 
 the mixture properly liquid, and it is then strained, cooled, 
 and allowed to stand three days in a covered vessel. When 
 the wash is required for use, it is heated in a double kettle, 
 and applied hot with a flat brush. This wash resists the 
 action of severe weather, and will serve, in place of paint 
 for walls, or wood or stone work. It may be used for the 
 kitchen woodwork if desired. 
 
 If the kitchen is already painted, and only needs cleaning, 
 use hot water and soap with a flannel rag. The addition of 
 a handful of borax or four tablespoonfuls of liquid ammonia 
 to a gallon of hot water will make a solution which will clean 
 paint and glass quickly and well without soap. Wash oil- 
 cloths by first rubbing them over with a cloth wet in equal 
 parts of milk and water, and then with another wet in warm 
 
THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 3 
 
 water, and finally with a soft dry cloth ; wet only a small 
 place at once, and never use a brush if it can be avoided. 
 Keep oilcloths clean ordinarily by wiping them first with a 
 damp cloth and then with a dry one ; but do not apply 
 soap, or use a harsh brush or a mop. When the paint has 
 been scrubbed off oilcloths, and their texture is still un- 
 broken, they can be restored by having a coat of good oil 
 paint laid over them about once a year. Some durable 
 bright color is preferable ; and the eifect can be heightened 
 by having a solid color for the centre, and a contrasting hue 
 for the border. Rubbing with a few drops of ammonia on 
 a damp cloth, and subsequent polishing with dry cloth, will 
 clean windows easily and well. Kitchen-tables should be 
 cleaned every day, with hot water in which either borax or 
 washing-soda is dissolved. The sink should be flushed 
 every day with boiling water, and a handful of washing-soda 
 thrown upon the strainer over the drain-pipe before the 
 greasy water is poured down it after a meal is over. If 
 this point is attended to, and no scraps of refuse or grounds 
 of tea or coffee are allowed to pass into the drain-pipe, 
 housekeepers will escape that troublesome and expensive 
 plumber's job of cutting out the drain-pipe. Every week 
 in winter, and oftener in summer, a cupful of quicklime or 
 of chloride of lime, or a pailful of hot copperas-water, 
 should be thrown upon the drain. Copperas-water is a 
 valuable disinfectant, free from the objectionable odor and 
 physical effect of lime ; it is made by placing the copperas 
 in the bottom of a barrel, and covering it with water; 
 enough copperas should be used to be plainly seen always 
 upon the bottom of the barrel. The water, heated and 
 poured in drains, sinks, and water-closets, by the pailful, 
 once or twice a week, will keep them entirely free from dan- 
 gerous emanations : note this when there is a closet upon 
 the lower floor, or near the kitchen. 
 
4 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 After every nieal the towels and dish-cloths should be 
 washed in hot water with soap and a little borax, and they 
 should then be well rinsed and dried in the sun or air before 
 using them again. Directions are given elsewhere for wash- 
 ing dishes. 
 
 If kitchen utensils are tarnished and discolored, put them 
 into a large boiler containing hot water and a handful of 
 washing-soda, and let them boil for a few moments ; then 
 scour them with any of the good kitchen soaps made of fine 
 white silicious matter. Very fine ashes, sand, or brick-dust 
 sifted, will answer for scouring iron or copper. For tin and 
 japanned or enamelled ware, use powdered whiting, applying 
 it with a wet cloth, and then poUshing with a dry one or 
 with chamois. Knives are cleaned with powdered bath- 
 brick. 
 
 To clean the stove, first wash it with hot water and soda 
 after it is cold, if it is greasy ; and then blacken it with any 
 good stove-polish, according to the directions accompany- 
 ing the polish, and rub the steel fittings of the stove with 
 emery-paper. To build a fire, first let down the grate, and 
 take up the ashes and cinders carefully to avoid raising a 
 dust, sifting the cinders to use in building the fire ; brush 
 the soot and dust out of the upper part of the stove, and 
 from the flues which can be reached ; be sure that all parts 
 of the ovens and hot-boxes are clean ; if there is a water- 
 back attached to the stove, see that it is filled with water ; 
 if it is connected with water-pipes, be sure in winter that 
 they are not frozen ; brush up the hearth-stone. Lay the 
 fire as follows : Put a few handfuls of dry shavings or paper 
 in the bottom of the grate ; upon them, some small sticks 
 of pine wood laid across each other; then a few larger 
 sticks, and some cinders free from ashes ; a few small lumps 
 of coke or coal may be mixed with the cinders. Open all 
 the draughts of the stove, close all the covers, and light the 
 
THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 5 
 
 fire ; when the cinders are lighted, add fresh coke and coal 
 gradually and repeatedly until a clear, bright fire is started ; 
 then partly close the draughts. To keep up a fire, add fiiel 
 often, a little at once, in order not to check the heat : let- 
 ting the fire burn low, and then replenishing it abundantly, 
 is a wasteful method, because the stove grows so cold that 
 most of the fresh heat is lost in raising the temperature 
 again to the degree necessary for cooking. Removing the 
 covers of the stove, to place a utensil nearer the fire, lowers 
 the heat of the entire surface, and affects the temperature 
 of the ovens ; therefore flat-bottomed cooking-utensils are 
 the best, for they fit close upon the covered top of the 
 stove. Black iron saucepans cook more quickly than bright 
 tin ones ; coppers retain the heat, even when brightly pol- 
 ished, longer than any other metal, and are much the most 
 durable. All these points of excellence are treated in detail 
 in the author's "Cooking-school Text-book," to which the 
 reader who desires further information is referred. When 
 the fuel used is wood, the fire should be built and man- 
 aged much in the same way. Hard wood is preferable to 
 pine for cooking-purposes. Charcoal is a good cooking- 
 fuel, but it is generally expensive. 
 
 All the kitchen refuse should be burned, first draining it 
 from the slops ; and then, when there is no cooking going 
 on, it should be put upon the back of the fire, and all the 
 draughts thrown open so that it can be quickly and entirely 
 consumed. If there is no accumulation of rubbish in the 
 kitchen, there will probably be no more croton-bugs or 
 roaches than can be destroyed by the persistent use of 
 powdered borax and insect-powder. 
 
 THE PANTBY. 
 
 Although cleanliness in the kitchen is generally enforced 
 in well-regulated households, the same care is not always 
 
6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 extended to those necessary repositories of food, the pantry, 
 the refrigerator, and the cellar. The drains too often con- 
 taminate the latter, all kinds of food are gathered indiscrim- 
 inately in the ice-box, and the pantry has too many dark 
 corners. Then, again, the pantry is too often located so 
 near the kitchen as to receive more or less heat from that 
 room. This access of heat should be guarded against as far 
 as possible, because it so interferes with the preservation of 
 food. When it is impossible to have the pantry or store- 
 room a little removed from the kitchen, the two rooms can 
 be separated by double doors, or at least by a door furnished 
 with a spring which will always close it. 
 
 The pantry should be so placed as to receive plenty of 
 light and air to keep it free from dampness, but it should 
 not be so exposed to the sun as to make it hot enough at 
 any season to affect its contents. If there is not a storeroom 
 proper, a large light closet should be devoted to its uses. 
 Shelves should be arranged around the walls, those upon two 
 sides at least permitting barrels to be placed under them ; 
 hooks should be placed upon the edges of some of the upper 
 shelves, within easy reach, for the hanging of bunches of 
 herbs and small bags, or nets containing fruit. A cool, dark 
 section should be set apart for preserves and jellies j and, 
 if they are put up in stone jars or buckets, they should be 
 labelled, so that the contents can be known without opening 
 them. The arrangement of shelves, boxes, jars, and barrels 
 will suggest itself to any tidy person, as it affords the easiest 
 access to their contents. As far as possible, solid cases 
 should be used for stores of all kinds, because paper used 
 for wrapping them is so readily torn, and is no protection 
 against mice or insects. The ordinary contents of the store- 
 room include dry groceries, preserves, pickles, bread, and 
 cake ; the latter should be kept in close boxes of wood or 
 tin, which should be frequently cleaned. Hot food should 
 
, THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 7 
 
 never be put into the storeroom, because it gives out steam, 
 and thus favors dampness, and also because it slightly heats 
 the atmosphere. 
 
 THB REFRIGERATOR. 
 
 In most towns, ice-boxes or refrigerators are obtainable 
 already made, but there is some discretion to be used in 
 their selection. In choosing one, care should be taken that 
 the frame is of hard wood, susceptible of a smooth finish, 
 because a soft rough surface attracts and retains moisture 
 and injurious odors from the water used in cleansing it, and 
 from the ice, as well as from the food itself. If possible, the 
 entire lining and shelves should be metaUic ; but, if they are 
 of wood, they should be hard, and a double set should be 
 employed so that some can be drying while the others are 
 in use. Marbleized iron or zinc makes the best metal 
 shelves. No water or sewer pipes should be connected with 
 the ice-box, because poisonous gases readily pass through 
 water. In so-called model apartment-houses, the refrigera- 
 tor is sometimes connected direct with the drain by a small 
 pipe, to permit the escape of the water caused by the melt- 
 ing of the ice : there could be no surer way devised to im- 
 peril the health of the inmates of the apartments. Ice-boxes 
 and refrigerators, large and small, should be cleaned and 
 aired often enough to keep them perfectly free from any 
 odor. Meat, fish, poultry, or game should never be laid 
 upon shelves, but rather hung by hooks or laid upon racks : 
 if the box is too small to permit this, they should be placed 
 upon earthen dishes large enough to prevent contact with 
 the box or shelves. Milk should always be kept in closed 
 jars, even when in the ice-box, for no other substance is so 
 quickly affected by air and surroundings ; it absorbs every 
 odor and gas to which it is exposed, and takes on every taint 
 in the atmosphere : therefore, as soon as its first natural heat 
 
8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 has passed away, it should be strained, and kept in covered 
 vessels, unless it is put into a perfectly clean milk-room shel- 
 tered from air and dust. Butter, like milk, readily takes on 
 odors and taint : it should always be kept in covered tubs or 
 jars, with brine or a wet cloth covered with salt over it. It 
 should never be put near fish, meat, or vegetables which can 
 impart any odor to it. 
 
 The ice-box should not be kept in a damp place, because 
 dampness will cause the ice to melt, and predispose food to 
 ferment and mould. No steam or furnace pipes or chimney- 
 flues should be near enough to vary, its temperature in the 
 least degree, for this in itself is a frequent cause of injury 
 to food. When the weather is variable, it is necessary to 
 closely watch food which is not refrigerated. In the winter, 
 there is less danger to food from decomposition than in sum- 
 mer ; but some kinds are impaired by freezing. And then, 
 too, there is always more or less danger of decomposition 
 attending the thawing • of frozen meats : they should be 
 thawed at a dry temperature, only a little above the freezing- 
 point, in a well-ventilated room, or in very cold water, — • 
 never near the fire, or in a warm kitchen. When meat has 
 once been frozen, it should be kept at that temperature until 
 it is thawed for cooking ; for, when once thawed, it is likely 
 to spoil quickly, especially in close, damp weather. 
 
 A word in regard to frozen vegetables : they should be 
 placed in cold water to thaw, not exposed to the action of 
 heat ; but as freezing effects a chemical change in the sub- 
 stance and composition of vegetables, — as, for instance, 
 when it partly changes the starch in potatoes into glucose, 
 — they should generally be protected from frost. Vegetables 
 will be referred to again in treating of the cellar. 
 
 As dampness favors decomposition, even at a low tem- 
 perature, the ice-compartment in refrigerators should be 
 separated from the food-closet by permanent walls, so that 
 
THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 9 
 
 moisture cannot be directly communicated from ice to food. 
 The only efificient refrigerator is one that thus separates the 
 ice from the food, and has an outlet for the water caused by 
 the melting of the ice. It is a mistake to use this water for 
 drinking or cooking purposes, for it generally contains im- 
 purities from the ice. A glass- or porcelain-lined receptacle 
 placed next to the ice-compartment, and filled with water, 
 will cool pleasantly. The vessel should be washed out and 
 filled with fresh water every day, and should be entirely 
 closed from the air ; for water impregnated with odors or 
 vapors from food, or with those which pervade living-rooms, 
 is unfit to drink. As water standing in open pitchers for 
 any length of time loses all its natural gases, and absorbs 
 the deleterious properties in the atmosphere, so, equally, 
 that which is exposed to the odors of food in the refrigerator 
 becomes injurious. 
 
 In cool weather, meat, fish, game, and poultry may be 
 kept in a wire safe for a reasonable length of time. The 
 same general- care should be given to the safe which the 
 refrigerator requires. Its frame should be of hard wood ; 
 the racks or shelves, of metal, marbleized or galvanized iron ; 
 and the wire-cloth painted as often as it shows any trace 
 of rust, because a rough, rusted metallic surface will attract 
 and retain deleterious odors, and particles of decomposed 
 food. 
 
 THE CELLAR. 
 
 In cities, cellars are generally quite underground, and too 
 often contaminated by sewer- and drain-pipes. It is impos- 
 sible to take too much care to guard against this danger. 
 To a great extent, dampness can be obviated in cellars, by 
 flooring them with concrete, and ventilating them thor- 
 oughly : for this purpose there should be movable windows, 
 in good working-order, with direct communication with the 
 outer air. 
 
lO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Cellars cannot always be lighted without artificial means, 
 but they can be kept clean and dry. A little copperas dis- 
 '" solved in the water used for making lime- wash, or some 
 good disinfectant, can always be used to purify the air ; and 
 care can be taken that no dirt of any kind accumulates. 
 As this subject is treated exhaustively in the author's work 
 on "Diet for Invalids," no more need be said here. If 
 fruit or vegetables are kept in cellars, they should be exam- 
 ined frequently, and all spoiled portions removed. The 
 darkness necessary to the preservation of some vegetables 
 can be secured by covering them with old clean blankets or 
 carpet, or, better still, with several thicknesses of newspaper, 
 which can be thrown away when they bear any trace of 
 mildew : the blanket or carpet should be dried frequently, 
 and washed when it becomes at all mildewed. The tem- 
 perature of cellars where vegetables are kept should be regu- 
 lated so that they can neither freeze, nor spoil from excessive 
 heat : a safe temperature is about 50° Fah. 
 
 When vegetables are kept in bins, they should be made 
 of hard smooth wood with covers ; otherwise, barrels and 
 boxes with covers should be used. If those roots and tubers 
 which are to be kept until late in the winter are packed in 
 layers, in sand or clean moss or excelsior-shavings, they will 
 keep fresh and good in a dry, cool cellar. Apples may be 
 packed in this way, or in dry sawdust, or wrapped in soft 
 paper, and stored in barrels or boxes. Winter pears may be 
 laid between the folds of an old clean blanket, on a shelf, 
 in a dry cellar. Cranberries are best preserved by keeping 
 them covered with water, and lemons do well in the same 
 way ; care should be taken that the water does not freeze, 
 and it should be changed often enough to maintain its fresh- 
 ness. Parsnips are generally left in the ground during the 
 winter, but they may be kept in sand in the cellar. If 
 turnips are kept in sand, they are less apt to become corky 
 
THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR, II 
 
 than when exposed to the air. Celery keeps well, quite 
 buried in the sand. Squashes and pumpkins require a cool, 
 dry place. Cabbages may be laid in heaps, or packed ii'> 
 barrels, with the root up, and a thick covering of their own 
 outer leaves upon the top, under the cover of the barrel oi 
 bin. Onions should be spread upon shelves, or kept in well- 
 aired baskets. Beets should be buried in sand, as also carrots. 
 Potatoes keep well in barrels in a cool, dark part of the cellar. 
 As the spring approaches, or if they begin to show signs of 
 germination at any season, they may be put into baskets 
 with handles, and placed in boiling water for three minutes ; 
 after that they are to be thoroughly drained, and then re- 
 turned to the cellar : the heat of the water destroys the 
 young sprouts, without injuring the rest of the potato for 
 subsequent cooking. Sweet potatoes require a very dry 
 place, but do not keep any length of time ; so that, unless 
 the family is large, they should be bought only in small 
 quantities. All the vegetables which are used green, or in 
 an immature condition, should be dried, canned, or pre- 
 served in their season. Radishes and mushrooms may be 
 raised during the winter, in warm cellars ; and parsley and 
 lettuce, in window-boxes, at any temperature suitable for 
 house-plants ; mustard and cress will grow from seed within 
 a few days in window-boxes. 
 
 TBE CARE OF MILK AND BUTTER. 
 
 Reference has already been made to the importance of 
 taking special care of the milk and butter intended for daily 
 consumption in the household ; but where one or two cows 
 are kept, and a little butter is made, a few more directions 
 may be useful. 
 
 It is as important that the cows and their shed should be 
 kept perfectly clean, and that they are properly fed, as that 
 their milk should receive attention ; and the housekeeper 
 
12 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 should see to this, although such details belong properly 
 to those having care of the cows. When cows have been 
 fed upon cabbage or turnips, or have eaten onions in the 
 fields, in such a way that the taste is perceptible in the milk, 
 add to it, as soon as it is "drawn from the cows and strained, 
 one quart of boiling water to each two gallons of milk, or 
 have a piece of saltpetre the size of a pea powdered and put 
 into each pail ■ before milking the cows. Either of these 
 methods will generally destroy the foreign flavor, without in- 
 juring the milk ; but if the cows are shut up so that they 
 have no access to such food for six or eight hours, the milk 
 will be sweet. The cows should be milked kindly and gen- 
 tly, and not immediately after any violent exercise ; and, 
 when possible, always by one person who understands their 
 idiosyncrasies, and can get all the milk : if a cow is not 
 milked thoroughly, the quantity will gradually decrease and 
 become poor until the supply ceases altogether. When a 
 cow is unquiet during milking, a piece of rock-salt put into 
 a trough for her to lick will generally keep her quiet ; but if 
 she is vicious, her legs must be strapped. 
 
 Tin pails, scrupulously clean, are best for milking : if 
 wooden ones are used, they must be of hard, smooth wood, 
 scalded and then rinsed with cold water before being used. 
 The milk should be strained directly it is drawn, and set in 
 a temperature of about 60° Fah. to become cool : milk 
 should always be cooled before it is covered in any way. 
 Deep tin pails, with a handle for lifting, are better for setting 
 milk for cream than the old-fashioned shallow pans : they 
 should always be kept scrupulously clean, being scalded, 
 aired, and sunned after each time of use. Cream should be 
 skimmed according to the season, in twelve, twenty-four, or 
 thirty-six hours. If the milk sours under the cream, no harm 
 is done ; but it should not be allowed to stand before skim- 
 ming, until the curd and whey separate. 
 
. THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 1 3 
 
 When enough cream is ready from one skimming to make 
 butter, it need only be set away without disturbance until 
 it becomes slightly sour, — from twenty-four to forty-eight 
 hours : but when it has to be accumulated, an ounce of pul- 
 verized salt may be put into the bottom of a two- or three- 
 gallon jar; and, every time cream is put in, it should be 
 thoroughly stirred with that already in the jar. Any drops 
 upon the inside of the jar should be wiped off, and it should 
 be kept covered with a piece of gauze. A shallow ladle is 
 best for skimming, and it need not be perforated. No wind 
 should be permitted to blow over the surface of cream while 
 it is rising, and it should be protected from dust. The most 
 cream seems to rise upon milk cooled by ice. Although 
 cream needs to be a little sour before churning, it must not 
 be allowed to become at all bitter : the churning may be 
 done two or three times a week. 
 
 Before using the churn, it should be scalded for one min- 
 ute with boiling water, then emptied, and partly filled with 
 very cold water for five minutes : after that, the water may 
 be poured out, and the cream put into the chum. Very 
 thick cream should be thinned with milk before churning. 
 When the cream froths much in the chum, the butter should 
 be used soon after it is made, because there is some condi- 
 tion of the milk or cream which will prevent the keeping 
 of the butter. Chum with a series of steady, even strokes, 
 about sixty to the minute, and stop when the butter comes 
 in small, firm masses. At some seasons it is necessary to put 
 some very cold milk, or a piece of ice, into the churn before 
 the butter will come ; this may be done if it does not begin 
 to appear in about half an hour : butter comes in about half 
 an hour when the cream is at a temperature of about 65° Fah, 
 
 When the butter comes, if it is very soft, put ice or very 
 cold water into the churn so that it will harden enough to 
 be taken up. Remove the butter from the churn, to a clean 
 
14 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. - 
 
 table or butter-tray, with a wooden paddle, first wetting both 
 in very cold water. Never use the hands in working butter. 
 With the ladle, cut down through the butter, and press it 
 firmly, to work out the buttermilk ; but do not smooth it, 
 because that breaks the grain of the butter. If the weather 
 is warm enough to make the butter soft, put a piece of ice 
 upon it, and trust to the second working to eixtract the water. 
 When the buttermilk is worked out, spread the butter out on 
 the tray or table, sprinkle over it the finest dairy-salt, — about 
 an ounce of salt to a pound of butter, — and then, using the 
 same cutting motion, thoroughly work the salt into the butter. 
 Some butter-makers add about a quarter of an ounce of fine 
 white sugar to each pound of butter at the first or second 
 working : the sugar is a good corrective to any trace of bit- 
 terness in the butter, and helps preserve it. After the salt 
 has been worked into the butter, put it away to harden again. 
 When the butter is hard, repeat the working with the ladle, 
 to work out all the water, and use a cloth repeatedly wrung 
 out of ice-water to pat the butter while working it ; do not 
 work long enough to soften the butter, but extract all the 
 moisture, so that a clean surface is presented when cut, with 
 only a slight dew upon it. Then either make it up in pats 
 or rolls, wrap each one in a wet cloth, and sink them in 
 brine, or pack the butter in firkins as directed .below. The 
 butter should be of a rich yellow color, sweet and nutty in 
 flavor, and showing a fine close grain when broken, or an 
 even surface slightly bedewed with colorless moisture when 
 cut. Freezing does not impair the taste or keeping-quality 
 of butter r but if it is long exposed to the air, it is apt to 
 become rancid upon the surface ; and this rancidity gradually 
 penetrates the entire mass, and develops an acid which is 
 poisonous when brought into contact with any copper surface. 
 All packed butter should be put into firkins or tubs made 
 of hard wood, — oak or hemlock, — which have been soaked 
 
THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. 1 5 
 
 in brine for twenty-four hours, and then wiped, and sprinkled 
 with fine salt. Pack the butter down tight and close, and 
 cover the top layer with a cloth wet in brine and sprinkled 
 thickly with fine salt. If the tub is not filled at the first 
 packing, when more butter is ready to put in, remove the 
 cloth, rinse it in cold water, wipe or wash off with cold water 
 any salt which may have fallen upon the butter, pack in 
 what is ready, and again cover it as before with the wet 
 cloth and salt. 
 
 A good brine for butter can be made as follows : Dissolve 
 in a gallon of cold water as much fine salt as it will receive, 
 — that is, until salt can be seen upon the bottom of the 
 vessel containing the brine ; then put it over the fire, with 
 an ounce of sugar and a level teaspoonful of powdered salt- 
 petre, and let it boil up ; after that, cool it, strain it. and 
 use it. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 MARKETING. 
 
 AS the excellence of a dinner depends as much upon 
 the quality of its materials as upon the skill of the 
 cook, it is incumbent on the good housekeeper to have some 
 knowledge of marketing. If a good cook can do better 
 with poor materials than a poor cook with the best supplies, 
 how great will be the satisfaction in a repast which supple- 
 ments judicious selection with perfect cookery ! The skilled 
 marketer must have experience, but even the youngest be- 
 ginner can gain some advantage from such clear and explicit . 
 description as is presented in this chapter. 
 
 The complaint is often made, that the pictures of meat 
 given in cookery-books do not resemble the meat as it 
 appears in market. The pictures given in this work have 
 been carefully engraved from photographs taken from sides 
 of meat ready to be exposed for sale. The lines which indi- 
 cate the different joints represent the average lines employed 
 in cutting meat by butchers in various parts of the country : 
 relatively the difference is so slight, that in giving lessons 
 in the cutting of meats, in many places, only unimportant 
 variations have been observed, and even these concerned 
 the names rather than the actual forms of the cuts. Indi- 
 vidual butchers may vary their cutting-lines a few inches, but 
 the main ones given in the several engravings are accurate 
 enough to serv» as a general guide to marketers. 
 
 i6 
 
MARKETING. 1 7 
 
 Before entering upon the detail of meat marketing, a few 
 words may be well said upon the importance of freshness in 
 food of all kinds, and especially when several kinds are used 
 for making one dish, such as a soup or a stew. The least 
 taint in any ingredient will impair the flavor of the dish, 
 and often produce temporary discomfort or positive illness ; 
 therefore the marketer should not be tempted to purchase 
 wilted vegetables, or meat upon the verge of spoiling, 
 because the price may be low. In fact, the rule may be 
 accepted, that fair goods command a fair price ; the only 
 notable exception being when marketing- days occur only two 
 or three times a week, or at the end of the week, when the 
 food is sold at a reduction towards the close of the day, 
 by dealers who do not wish to take the risk of keeping it. 
 •■Street-peddlers seldom have fresh wares, even if they give 
 good measure ; because they generally buy at a low rate, 
 from dealers whose supplies are upon the verge of spoiling. 
 This is especially the case with fruit : the street-peddlers 
 are most active when the market is glutted with green or 
 over-ripe fruit for which there is no legitimate demand. In 
 some localities, however, — notably in country-places, — 
 honest small dealers supply their scattered customers by 
 wagon-route, greatly to the housekeepers' convenience : of 
 course the foregoing remarks do not apply to them. 
 
 THE PREPARATION OF MEAT FOR MARKET. 
 
 This is, a matter requiring close care and nice calculation ; 
 and, under the manipulation of skilled slaughterers, all parts 
 of the creature have an actual market value. The finest 
 hair of beef, after thorpugh cleansing, is used in the manu- 
 facture of coarse blankets ; the long tuft on the end of the 
 tail is eniployed in upholstery ; the coarse hair is made into 
 mortar ; the skin is tanned for leather ; the horns are used 
 for combs, knife and umbrella handles, buttons, and various 
 
1 8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Other articles of use and fancy ; the bones and refuse of the 
 horns and hoofs become fertilizers, or are made into glue ; 
 the feet yield neat's-foot oil ; the blood and offal are made 
 into fertilizers ; all superfluous fat is made into either oleo- 
 margarine or oil. 
 
 In New York and some other large cities, the butchers 
 employ the Jewish method of slaughtering, which consists 
 of draining the carcass of all the blood. After the animal 
 is killed, the interior is examined to make sure that the meat 
 is in a perfectly healthy condition ; and it is then cut up for 
 sale. The intestines and their surrounding fat are removed ; 
 the heart, liver, and kidneys being prepared for the retail 
 trade. The layer of faA which surrounds the intestines is 
 stretched over the inner surface of the body, and held in 
 place by wooden skewers, so that it may not contract in cool- 
 ing : it is this fat which is so excellent in spring lamb. The 
 outer coating of fat, mingled with a thin layer of flesh, is 
 often cut so that in cooling it contracts, and forms fanciful 
 figures on the surface of the meat. The thickness of this 
 outer layer of fat is a safe indication of the condition of 
 the carcass : well-fed animals show thick back-fat, and the 
 kidney-fat or suet is very abundant, while the entire flesh is 
 marbled with small lines of fat. The last joints of the legs 
 are carefully cleaned, and the head is freed from hair and 
 horns. 
 
 The entire flesh of the head of beef in this country is 
 generally made into sausage-meat ; but in Europe it is sold, 
 either fresh or cured, under the name of ox-cheek : the 
 palate is a special delicacy there, and many dishes are made 
 of the brains. In this country the tongue is generally the 
 most important part of the head, being used fresh, or corned 
 with salt, or pickled and smoked. As a matter of fact, most 
 of the edible viscera can be made into palatable and nutri- 
 tious dishes ; and some of the so-called cheap cuts of meat 
 
MARKETING. ig 
 
 are preferable, on the score of flavor and strength-giving 
 properties, to the most expensive. For instance, the shoul- 
 der of mutton is much more delicate than the leg. And the 
 ^/et or tenderloin of beef, generally the most expensive cut, 
 has less taste and nutriment than any other part of the flesh 
 of the animal : it is- simply tender ; and that is because it 
 is composed of muscular fibre which is worked but little, 
 and consequently is not as well nourished as those parts 
 that are so exercised as to make their circulation rapid and 
 ample. When we offer the tenderloin of beef to a guest or 
 an invalid, we only give them the most expensive meat, not 
 the best. And so it frequently is with mutton : contrary 
 to the general impression prevailing in this country, the 
 shoulder is the choice portion; in England, where the best 
 mutton in the world is raised, it is that which is set before 
 the guest, while the leg is relegated to the family table as 
 being the more economical and less delicate. It is a favorite 
 maxim among good old-fashioned housekeepers, that only 
 prime cuts of meat are available and of good value. But 
 this is the case only when the family taste insists always 
 upon a roast or a steak : when any variety of fare is accept- 
 able, many of the cheap cuts can be made into delicious 
 dishes; and, when there is a general demand for them, 
 butchers will willingly keep them to meet it, and thus in a 
 measure equalize the price of more expensive cuts. 
 
 It 'is not always that the average late marketer has the 
 opportunity of buying the best meats. In cities, the buyers 
 for large hotels, restaurants, and clubs market very early, or 
 have the choice parts reserved for them. Then, too, every 
 dealer will have his special customers whose wants he endeav- 
 ors to supply : if he is honest, he will of course give all his 
 customers as good as he has on hand, and they may rely 
 upon his opinion; but there are occasions when the buyer 
 may safely depend upon individual judgment. 
 
20 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 GOOD POINTS IN MEATS. 
 
 A few clearly defined points will enable any ordinarily care- 
 ful and intelligent person to select a good quality of flesh 
 from what is offered. The best meats are from well-fed, ma- 
 ture animals, which have not been overworked, and the meat 
 of which has been carefully transported from the slaughter- 
 house to the market. A loose texture of flesh in full-grown 
 meats indicates an excess of water, which will cause the meat 
 to shrink in cooking or preserving it in any way. The flesh 
 of grass-fed meat is of this character ; while that of " stall- 
 fed " or " corn-fed " animals has a firm, dense fibre, admira- 
 bly calculated to retain its substance, either under the action 
 of heat in cooking or of salt in curing it. Of the three best- 
 known mature meats, beef has the largest and firmest fibres, 
 and pork has the densest, closest texture ; and therefore both 
 are well suited for curing. About one-fifth of the weight of 
 flesh is composed of the solid substances of fibrine, albumen, 
 and gelatine ; the residue being the juice of the flesh, which 
 consists of water and some soluble salts that are essential to 
 the preservation of health. It is this juice, of which salted 
 meats are largely deprived, which is too often lost by im- 
 proper methods of cooking ; as in the pounding of beefsteaks, 
 under the erroneous impression that they are thus made ten- 
 der, when really the labor of mastication saved by the break- 
 ing of the fibres is more than handicapped by the loss of the 
 juice. entailed by the pounding operation. When the fibre 
 of meat is over-tough, it can be softened by using vinegar 
 during cooking, according to the directions given elsewhere. 
 
 The fact is not always known to city marketers, although 
 it is generally well understood by people in the country who 
 kill their own meat, that the flesh of animals and birds is 
 always most tender if cooked while it is yet warm with vital- 
 ity. Every sportsman who has cooked game in the field or 
 
MARKETING. 21 
 
 camp direcdy it was killed, has demonstrated this fact. A 
 familiar domestic instance of it is the practice of the famous 
 negro cooks of the South, of cooking chickens before their 
 flesh grows cold after they are killed. If a bird is killed, 
 picked, and cooked at once, it will always be tenderer than 
 if it is allowed to grow cold and stiff. Beef, or any meat 
 which has been killed long enough for the warmth of life to 
 leave it, will be dense and hard of fibre until the stiffness of 
 the muscles consequent upon the loss of vital heat, that 
 causes toughness, has been overcome by that relaxation of 
 the tissues which precedes the beginning of actual decom- 
 position of the flesh. No matter how prime the animal is 
 before killing, after the flesh is once cold it will be hard and 
 tough until this muscular change takes place. As consider- 
 able loss in weight is consequent upon the Tbng keeping of 
 meat, butchers are sometimes unwilling to assume it ; but 
 they will generally hang meat long enough for it to become 
 tender, if their customers will take it at its first weight. 
 
 The flesh of young animals seems tender, because of its 
 softness and looseness of fibre. Its texture is naturally less 
 firm than that of mature creatures, but it is correspondingly 
 less nutritous ; and, while it appears to be easily masticated, 
 it is really only less entirely reduced to the condition of pulp 
 which permits the beginning of digestion, because its soft, 
 semi-gelatinous fibres elude the teeth, while the compara- 
 tively short time it remains in the mouth does not favor that 
 complete admixture with the saliva which is necessary to the 
 first stage of digestion. This is the reason why such young 
 meats as veal and sucking-pig are not desirable foods for 
 persons whose digestion is impaired. While the flesh of 
 young meats seems thus relatively tender, it is not so 
 acceptable to the palate as that of mature animals in good 
 condition. 
 
 A glance will show an experienced marketer the difference 
 
22 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 between good and poor meat. The first has a fresh, bright 
 color, with plenty of back- and kidney-fat, and fine thread- 
 like particles of fat running through the flesh : the odor is 
 sweet, and the general appearance clean. On the other 
 hand, meat in bad condition is dark and dull in color, with- 
 out the tracery of white fat throughout the flesh and its abun- 
 dance on the back and about the kidneys ; even if the fat is 
 abundant, its color will be yellowish and its consistency soft ; 
 the odor will be more or less unpleasant. No amount of 
 washing will restore the excellence of stale or tainted meat, 
 or counteract its poisonous effect upon the system. The 
 fact should be remembered in this connection, that meats 
 which have been kept on the ice, and are then exposed to 
 the action of a warm atmosphere, taint much more quickly 
 than those that have never been iced. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Good beef is of a clear, bright-red color, veined or mar- 
 bled with whitish fat, with abundant kidney-fat or suet, and 
 thick back-fat : the fat of a prime creature is of a clear, 
 whitish-yellow color, rather hard and brittle, as contrasted 
 with the dull yellow fat of mferior beef, which is also soft, 
 and greasy. The second grade of beef is of a dusky-red 
 color, with scant fat interspersed among the muscular fibre 
 and very little upon the back and kidneys ; the odor of the 
 meat is good ; and, if it is hung long enough, the flesh will 
 be comparatively tender. Poor beef has little or no back- 
 fat, very scant yellowish kidney-fat, and dark-red, hard flesh ; 
 in cooking it, the aid of vinegar will soften the fibres to some 
 extent, but it can never be made entirely good ; if the odor 
 is rank and strong, it will always be noticeable. 
 
 The carcass of beef as marketed is cut into sides, and 
 these again into fore- and hind-quarters. The engraving 
 shows a side of beef with the cutting-hnes placed where 
 
TTVl 
 
 ■ t ■I ^ \ 
 
 side of Beef. 
 
 z? 
 
24 PRACTICAL AMERICA AT COOKERY. 
 
 most butchers locate them : in different parts of the country, 
 they vary slightly ; but, as has ahready been said, the difference 
 is more in name than in appearance. The choicest parts of 
 the carcass are along the line of the backbone. One rather 
 unusual cut, the baron of beef, is not shown : it consists of 
 the double loin or sirloin, and is too large for ordinary pur- 
 poses, the average weight being about one hundred pounds. 
 The following figures indicate the position, in the picture, 
 of the different cuts of beef : — 
 
 1. Shin, or leg; used for soups and plain stews. 
 
 2. Round ; used for steaks, pot-roasts, and beef a la mode. 
 
 3. Rump ; used for steaks, stews, and corned beef. 
 
 4. Butt or flank steak ; used for steak, pressed beef, and 
 corned beef. 
 
 5. Large sirloin steaks ; large, juicy steaks, used for broil- 
 ing and frying. 
 
 6. Sirloin roast or porterhouse steaks ; used for the choice 
 roast or beefsteaks. 
 
 7. Flank ; used for corned beef or stews. 
 
 8. Navel ; used for corned beef. 
 
 9. Plate ; used for corned beef; 
 
 10. Ribs ; used for roasting. 
 
 11. Chuck ribs ; used for roasting and steaks. 
 
 12. Shoulder-piece; used for soups, stews, mince, and 
 pot-roasts. 
 
 13. Shank, or shin ; used chiefly for soups. 
 
 14. Neck ; used for soups, stews, and hash or mince. 
 
 15. Brisket; used for corned beef, spiced beef, and stews. 
 There is choice to be exercised in regard to steaks and 
 
 roasts. The hip- or thick-end of the sirloin or porterhouse 
 cut makes the finest beefsteaks, the two hip-bone or tender- 
 loin steaks being the best large beefsteaks in the entire car- 
 cass. The middle porterhouse steaks are smaller, and have 
 a good proportion of tenderloin or filet; the thin end of the 
 
MARKETING. 25 
 
 sirloin gives small porterhouse steaks of excellent flavor. 
 Beyond the hip-bone sirloin steak, come the flat- and round- 
 bone sirloin steaks, which are large, juicy, and well-flavored ; 
 then the ordinary large sirloin steaks reach to the rump-piece. 
 The tenderloin ox filet of beef runs under the sirloin, begin- 
 ning at the round-bone sirloin steak, and running up to about 
 the third small porterhouse, — from fifteen to twenty inches, 
 — and weighing five pounds or more. Rump and round 
 steaks cut from fine beef are composed of firm, juicy, well- 
 flavored flesh, and in point of nutriment compare favorably 
 with any portion. The roasting-ribs are cut from the fore- 
 quarter ; they number in all thirteen, and are usually cut in 
 twos or threes, according to the size or weight required. 
 The first two or three are called the first-cut ribs ; then come 
 the second- or middle-cut, reaching as far as the fifth or sixth 
 rib ; the third-cut ribs reach up to the chuck- or shoulder- 
 ribs, which begin at the ninth rib : all these cuts are juicy, 
 tender, and highly flavored. The four chuck-ribs proper run 
 up to the neck. The piece of shoulder-blade running 
 through the chuck-ribs can be cut out by the butcher, and 
 replaced with a piece of fat. The chuck-ribs are divided 
 according to the requirements of the purchaser : their flavor 
 is sweet ; and, as they are marbled with fat in good beef, they 
 rank next the sirloin, either as roasts or steaks. The chuck 
 nearest the neck is inferior in quality to the other end near 
 the ribs proper. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 The best veal is from a milk-fed calf about six weeks old. 
 Veal less than a month old is watery, sori, and insipid. 
 Good veal shows a fine-grained, juicy flesh, of a delicate 
 pinkish color, with firm white fat. When the food of calves 
 is changed to grass, hay, or meal, the character of the flesh 
 changes : it is harder, less juicy, and darker in color, and the 
 fat grows yellowish. When the flesh of veal is very white, 
 
26 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 it may have been blanched for the purpose of changing the 
 appearance of poor veal to that of good quality. The flesh 
 of the second quality of veal is. red, contrasted with the 
 pinkish-white prime flesh, and the fat is coarser-grained and 
 less abundant. The poorest kind of veal has decidedly red 
 flesh, and very littie kidney-fat. When the kidney-fat of any 
 quality of veal begins to grow soft and clammy, the meat is 
 on the verge of spoiling. Bob-veal is the flesh of calves 
 killed when they are less than three weeks old : the flesh is 
 soft, semi-gelatinous, and sticky, and the fat is scant and 
 flabby. It is utterly unfit for food : being the first flesh of 
 the young creature, unchanged by the healthful action of sun 
 and air, it is devoid of those elements which make good flesh 
 a wholesome food. The influence of sun and air upon the 
 blood of animals is well understood by, stock-raisers, who 
 have demonstrated that far better meat is produced by ani- 
 mals fattened in the open air than by those that are housed 
 for any considerable length of time. The annexed cut rep- 
 resents a carcass of veal prepared for market, the lines being 
 those generally followed in cutting it up. 
 
 1 . Leg, including part of the flank ; used for cutlets and 
 roasts. 
 
 2. Loin ; used for roasts and chops. 
 
 3. Flank : this part is often nearly all cut with the leg, 
 but if separated it makes a good roll for baking or stew- 
 ing. 
 
 4. The ribs lying under the shoulder; used for roasts, 
 chops, and stews. 
 
 5. Breast; used for stews, pot-pie, and baking. 
 
 6. Shoulder ; used for roasts and baked dishes. 
 
 7. Neck ; used for broth and stews. 
 
 8. Feet ; used for jelly. 
 
 The hind-quarter of veal is generally considered the finest, 
 but the rib-chops are exceedingly good. In a small carcass 
 
\ 1' IJ \i v\JUvllH\l\V.\! 
 
 Side of Veal. 
 
 27 
 
28 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of veal, the hind-quarter would be divided simply into loin 
 and leg, and the fore-quarter into shoulder, breast, and neck. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 Spring lamb is divided simply into fore- and hind-quarters 
 by a middle cut, which leaves several of the ribs attached 
 to the hind-quarter. The latter commands the highest price, 
 because it presents the greatest available quantity of meat ; 
 but its flavor is not superior to that of the shoulder. If a 
 lamb is very large, the neck may be separated from the fore- 
 quarter to use for stews. Very delicate dishes are made 
 from lamb's feet. 
 
 Spring lamb proper is from six weeks to three months old. 
 House-lamb is lamb fed under cover during the winter 
 months. Lamb is sold from spring until late winter, not 
 being called mutton until after it is a year old. The weight 
 of small spring lamb is from twenty to twenty-five pounds ; 
 and, as the season progresses, the size increases to about a 
 hundred pounds. As the lamb grows larger, chops are cut 
 from both fore- and hind-quarters ; the former being called 
 rib-chops, and the latter loin-chops or cutlets, as they are 
 taken from the loin or leg. Sometimes small sheep are 
 dressed like lamb ; but the difference is shown by the darker 
 red of the flesh, the comparative scantiness of the fat, and 
 the white color of the bones as opposed to the reddish 
 bones of lamb. The back- and kidney-fat of lamb is hard, 
 white, and abundant ; and the flesh has a delicate rosy tint. 
 The flesh of the second quality is darker and less firm than 
 that of prime lamb ; the grain is coarser, and the fat less 
 white and abundant. Poor lamb has scant yellowish fat, 
 and lean flabby meat without any interspersed lines of 
 fat ; and the flesh is soft and watery. When the kidney-fat 
 of lamb begins to grow soft and sticky, the meat is on the 
 point of spoiling ; a bad odor indicates that it . is already 
 
Side of Lutito 
 
 29 
 
30 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 tainted, and is unfit for use. It is not ever a safe experi- 
 ment to roast or bake meat upon the verge of spoiling, 
 because the gradual heating of the interior will generally 
 complete its decomposition. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Mutton is prime from creatures about three years old, fed 
 out of doors, and especially upon hillsides. The fat of 
 prime mutton is abundant, white, and hard ; the flesh is firm 
 and juicy, and of a clear-red color ; and the bones are white. 
 The flesh of second quality is darker and closer-grained, 
 the fat is scanty and yellowish, and the flavor is rank. Poor 
 mutton has pale, flabby flesh, scant thin fat laid close against 
 the flesh but not interlined with it, and the flesh parts easily 
 from the bones. Diseased mutton has decidedly yellowish 
 fat, and soft, flabby flesh. Small mutton is cut like large . 
 lamb; large mutton is cut by the lines indicated in the 
 annexed cut. 
 
 1. Leg ; used for roasts : in large mutton, part of the leg 
 is cut with the saddle. 
 
 2. Loin ; used for roasts and chops : the dotted Hne at 2 
 shows the cut for a saddle of mutton. 
 
 3. Flank; cut separate in very large mutton, but in 
 medium-sized carcasses included in the loin cut or chops. 
 
 4. Rack, or rib-chops ; used for rib- or French-chops. 
 
 5. Breast ; used for roasts, stews, and baked dishes. 
 
 6. Shoulder ; used for roasts and baked dishes. 
 
 7. Neck ; used for cutlets and stews. 
 
 The saddle of mutton is the double loin, cut without split- 
 ting it down the back : a detail of illustration is given else- 
 where. French chops are rib-chops with the end of the 
 bone trimmed off", and the flesh and fat cut away from 
 the bone at the thin or flank end, leaving the round piece 
 of flesh near the back-bone attached to the rib. 
 
32 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 The best pork for general table-use is from carcasses 
 weighing from fifty to about a hundred and twenty-five 
 pounds. The color of the flesh is a fresh pifik ; and the fat 
 is hard and white, not less than an inch thick upon the back, 
 and very abundant about the intestines. The skin of young 
 pork is whitish and semi-transparent. The second quality 
 of pork has rather hard red flesh and yellowish fat; the 
 poor sort has dark, coarse-grained flesh, soft fat, and a gen- 
 erally inferior appearance. Measly pork, which is unfit for 
 use, has little kernels in the fat; the kernels or yellowish 
 lumps sometimes show in the lean, and the entire flesh has 
 a dull look. The tenderloins of pork correspond with those 
 of beef in place : they are of sweet and tender flesh, and 
 during the winter season can generally be bought. When 
 the back-fat of pork is very thick, some of it is removed 
 from the parts which are to be used for roasts and chops ; 
 when the skin is dressed on roasts, it is scored in lines about 
 half an inch apart. 
 
 The accompanying cut shows a carcass of pork as divided 
 for general cooking-purposes. When the entire creature is 
 designed for salting, the cuts differ a little, but not materially. 
 
 1 . Leg ; used for roasts, ham, and corned pork. ' 
 
 2. Flank ; used for pickling or salting. 
 
 3. Loin ; used for roasts, chops, and baked dishes. 
 
 4. Brisket ; used for pickling and salting, and bacon. 
 
 5. Ribs ; used for roasts, chops, and baked dishes. 
 
 6. Shoulder ; used for roasts, ham, and corned pork. 
 
 7. Neck ; used for roasts and neck cutlets. 
 
 8. Top of head ; used for pickling and salting. 
 
 9. Cheek ; used for pickling and salting. 
 
 10. Hock ; used for pickling and salting. 
 
 11. Feet; used for souse and jelly. 
 
77i^, I 
 
 Slat oj fork. 
 
 33 
 
34 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 12. Tail-piece; used fresh as a choice roast. 
 
 That part of a carcass of pork used for bacon is the flank 
 and brisket, including the belly and the thin part of the ribs : 
 it is first thoroughly salted, and then dried or smoked. The 
 flitch of bacon is the entire side between the shoulder and 
 the leg. Brawn is the entire length of a side, pickled, after 
 it has been boned and rolled, and then boiled. 
 
 poultry: 
 
 There is no season when it is impossible to obtain good 
 poultry of some kind ; but in warm, damp weather it is 
 advisable to select that which has not been long killed, or 
 preserved on ice, as both are likely to spoil quickly. In 
 selecting fowls, see that the skin is clean, soft, and not badly 
 torn, that the flesh looks plump and light-colored or whitish 
 under the skin, and that some fat is apparent. Young fowls 
 or chickens have large feet and long necks in proportion to 
 their size, and the lower end of the breast-bone is so soft 
 as to bend easily in response to slight side pressure : the 
 cartilage does not harden into bone while the chicken is 
 young enough to be absolutely tender. Of course there are 
 tender large fowls and capons, bred especially for the table, 
 which are well grown, and abound in delicious flesh. If the 
 head and feet are upon dressed poultry, they will generally 
 indicate its condition. The eyes will be full and bright, and 
 the feet soft and pliable, when the poultry is in good condi- 
 tion : if it is poor and stale, the feet will be dry and stiff, 
 the eyes sunken and dull, and the flesh dark-colored and 
 changing to a greenish hue about the back anld vent, as the 
 poultry nears the point of spoiling. There are so many 
 devices for restoring stale poultry which has not actually 
 reached the stage of putrefaction, that the only absolute 
 safety has in buying from honest dealers. The head of a 
 capon, which is always left on the bird, is smaller in proper- 
 
MARKETING. 35 
 
 tion to the body than that of ordinary poultry ; the comb is 
 more withered and pale ; the neck-feathers are longer ; and 
 the body is shorter, fatter, and more plump. The flesh of 
 capons is very tender and juicy : the weight is usually from 
 eight to twelve pounds. Capon turkeys are unusual but 
 delicious. The best spring chickens are those which have a 
 full breast and are plump and short : those which have long 
 legs and large bones are less satisfactory. Bantam fowls, 
 which are sometimes marketed, are short and plump, about 
 the size of a partridge ; and their flesh is excellent when they 
 are young and fat. 
 
 Turkeys are in fine condition when the flesh looks white 
 and plump, and they have full breasts and smooth legs : old 
 turkeys have rather thick skins covered with long hairs, and 
 the flesh is purplish under the skin. Hen turkeys are 
 smaller and plumper than male birds, and of less intense 
 flavor : turkey poults, or young turkeys, are very tender and 
 delicate, but not full-flavored. The finest turkeys that are 
 marketed are the mutton-fed birds : they are fat, juicy, and 
 well-flavored. 
 
 Young ducks, or ducklings, and goslings are among the 
 most delicious poultry : they are very fat, and the flesh is 
 highly flavored. Good ducks and geese are plump, with 
 abundance of semi-transparent, soft fat : they have a pliable 
 breast-bone, flesh-colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes 
 that break when pressed between the thumb and finger. 
 As the birds grow old, the color of the feet and beaks 
 changes from yellow to red. Goslings are sometimes called 
 green geese. 
 
 Pigeons and squabs, either domestic or wild, are gener- 
 ally in market. Pigeons are good when the breasts are 
 large and plump in proportion to the size of the bird. The 
 flesh of old birds is very dark-colored, that of good ones is 
 dark red, and of squabs so light as to be almost pink. The 
 
36 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 squabs, also, are very short and fat, and have full round 
 bodies and soft legs and feet. 
 
 GAME-BIRDS. 
 
 Game-birds are abundant in all parts of America, in their 
 season, and can usually be bought in good condition from 
 reliable dealers. The breasts should always be full and 
 tender, and the skin upon the rump and about the vent 
 clear and freshly colored : if there is any appearance of 
 discoloration, the birds are stale. A few feathers plucked 
 from these parts will disclose the color of the skin, and a 
 touch will indicate the condition of the breast. Despite the 
 fact that epicures like game hung until it is upon the verge 
 of putrefaction, it is neither safe nor wholesome food in that 
 condition : when it is reasonably fresh, it cannot be excelled. 
 Among the larger game-birds, the canvas-back duck is the 
 best. It is as abundant in the great North-western lakes as 
 upon the Eastern seaboard, and the canvas-backs of the 
 Pacific Coast are delicious. This duck may be distinguished 
 from other species by the appearance of the feathers on the 
 back of the male bird, which resemble a piece of rough can- 
 vas. The bills of canvas-backs run nearly on a line with the 
 top of the head, and are about three inches long : they are 
 black, as contrasted with the bills of other wild duck, which 
 generally show some trace of color. When the bills of other 
 ducks are black, they are usually of a different shape to those 
 of canvas-backs. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 Large game is abundant and varied, and is good until it 
 begins to taint. Prime game is clean and fat, and free from 
 any unpleasant or musty odor. The most abundant is veni- 
 son ; but buffalo, bear, elk, antelope, wild sheep and goat, 
 and rabbits, hares, squirrels, raccoons, otters, beavers, badg- 
 ers, and musquash or muskrat, are frequently marketed, — 
 
MARKETING. 37 
 
 the latter especially in Southern cities, where the old /colored 
 cooks convert them into excellent dishes. 
 
 With all game, the judgment of a reliable dealer is the 
 best guide for the buyer ; but a few hints may be given as 
 to the possibility of keeping game in order to make the flesh 
 tender. All wild meat will keep good longer than domestic 
 meat, because of its firm texture. In average temperate 
 weather, clear and dry, meat which liao not been frozen will 
 keep the following length of time : veal and pork, one day ; 
 lamb, two days ; beef and mutton, from three to ten days ; 
 large poultry and game-birds, from three to six days ; small 
 game from two to five days, and large game about a week. 
 In clear winter weather, meat and game frozen in the air 
 will keep until there are signs of a thaw : they should then 
 be put into an ice-house, where they will remain frozen, or 
 thawed out in cold water and speedily used. In warm, muggy 
 weather, and during summer rains, meat exposed to the air 
 spoils quickly ; and the conditions of warmth and moisture 
 to which it is exposed are not unlike those which prevail 
 when frozen meat is exposed to the heat of the fire in roast- 
 ing and baking. Meats should be hung up, and entirely 
 covered with thin cloth or fly-screens, in a cool, dark place, 
 free from dampness : they should not be laid upon dishes 
 or boards, because the blood which flows from them taints 
 more quickly than the flesh itself. It is for the purpose of 
 entirely removing this blood, that butchers scrape their 
 meat-blocks instead of washing them. Meats designed for 
 broiling, roasting, and baking can be hung longer than those 
 which are to be boiled. 
 
 ,, FISH. 
 
 In selecting fish, have it as fresh as possible. This con- 
 dition is indicated by the fulness and brightness of the eyes, 
 and the clean skin and firm flesh : above all, the odor 
 should be sweet and fresh. Fish which is marketed in a 
 
38 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 frozen state should be thawed in cold water, and cooked at 
 once. Sea-fish, and those which run from the sea into bays 
 and rivers, have the finest flavor : fresh-water fish sometimes 
 have a muddy taste, which can be removed to some extent 
 by soaking them in salted cold water for a couple of hours 
 before they are cooked. All fish are best before spawning : 
 afcer that period, the flesh becomes soft and watery. Good 
 crabs and lobsters are heavy in proportion to their size, and 
 while uncooked their movements are rapid if they are in 
 good condition : if cooked, their odor is sweet as long as 
 they are good. Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels should 
 be eaten as fresh as possible always. Salted and smoked 
 fish should always have a good odor and clean appearance. 
 
 VEGETABLES AND FRUIT. 
 
 All juicy and green vegetables should be very fresh and 
 succulent, and are best just before flowering, as also are the 
 sweet herbs called pot-herbs. Roots and tubers should be 
 full and fresh-colored : if withered or sprouted, they art 
 inferior. The green vegetables should not be bought in 
 larger quantity than can be used while they are still fresh : 
 they will keep best if sprinkled with water, and laid in a 
 cool, dark place. All the roots and tubers are improved 
 by laying them in cold water for an hour before using 
 themi Details of the keeping of vegetables are given else- 
 Vhere. 
 
 Fruit when fresh should be ripe and sound, as perfect as 
 possible (because this will make less waste), and bought 
 only in quantities which admit of speedy use, unless it is 
 winter-fruit which can be kept without any danger of spoil- 
 ing. Preserved and dried fruits keep well in cool, dark 
 places, and so may be bought .sa/elv in quantities. 
 
MARKETING. 39 
 
 BAIRY PRODUCTS AND GROCERIES. 
 
 Milk, butter, cheese, and eggs are so perishable that it is 
 not well to purchase them in quantities larger than required 
 for a few days' use, unless the family is large and can con- 
 sume such amounts as are sold at wholesale prices. The 
 detail of keeping them has been given elsewhere. 
 
 The com and wheat products, and cereals in general, 
 may be bought by the large quantity if there is a good dry 
 storeroom where they can be secured from destructive 
 vermin and mouldiness. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 METHODS OF COOKING. 
 
 WHATEVER the manner chosen for the dressing of 
 food, it can be traced to some one of the compara- 
 tively few fundamental methods of cookery. These methods 
 will be given in this chapter in sufficient detail to enable the 
 least-experienced cook to follow them readily. If the fact 
 is once accepted, that in cookery similar results follow defi- 
 nite operations as certainly as they do in any other manual 
 work, there need be no uncertainty or failure. Let any one 
 understand that it requires a fixed degree of heat to make 
 water boil, and it will not be expected to boil at any less 
 heat : it is equally to be supposed, that, if a safe and easy 
 way is shown to accomplish a given result in cooking, it will 
 be generally followed in preference to less clear and reason- 
 able ways of work. 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 The most primitive cookery was undoubtedly done at an 
 open fire. And it yet remains for science to find a better 
 method ; for this reason, when it is possible, meat should be 
 roasted before an open fire, rather than baked in an oven as 
 most so-called roasts are now cooked. At the old-fashioned 
 open fire upon the hearth, it was easy to roast, because there 
 was in the same spot before the fire the intense heat required 
 for cooking, and the constantly changing current of air ne- 
 cessary to carry away from the meat the fumes of burning 
 40 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. 41 
 
 fat, which must impair its flavor, and the steam set free 
 from its interior, which •destroys the crispness of its surface 
 if confined about it as in baking. In the oven, the fat 
 drawn out by intense heat spatters against the hot sides, and 
 bums ; while the steam generated by heat from the natural 
 moisture of the meat, if confined to the oven, cannot fail to 
 soften the surface. This point will be reverted to in treating 
 of baking meats. 
 
 It is possible to roast meat before many of the modem 
 cook-stoves and ranges, because there is a movable front 
 before the grate containing the fuel. When this is the case, 
 meat can be roasted with aid of the tin case open on one 
 side, called the Dutch- or tin-oven. A clear, hot fire should 
 be made. The meat, properly prepared, should be hung in 
 the oven, and placed directly in front of the grate ; the 
 greatest available heat being required to quickly crisp the 
 surface, and thus retain the juices of the meat. The tin 
 ovens are generally provided with a movable hook in the 
 top, upon which the meat is hung, and by Kieans of which 
 it can be tumed without changing the positv-an of the oven : 
 some of the ovens are made with an aut'^.raatic spring, that 
 keeps the meat constantly revolving upon the hook, and so 
 favors a uniformly brown surface. 
 
 In the various recipes in this volume, for roast meats, 
 full directions are given for their treatment, so that here it 
 is necessary only to say that they should be cleansed by wip- 
 ing with a wet cloth, instead of being washed, because water 
 extracts their juices ; that no salt should be applied to cut 
 surfaces until they are brown, because that, too, has a tend- 
 ency to draw out their juices ; and that no water should be 
 put into the dripping-pan for basting, li^cause it can never 
 get as hot as the hot fat upon the surfav^ of the meat, and. 
 it also generates steam which impairs th« crispness so desir- 
 able in a roast. Basting should be don< with the drippings 
 
42 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 which flow from the meat, or with butter. After the meat iS: 
 brown, it may be seasoned ; and, if a " frothed " surface is 
 desired, flour may be dredged upon it every-time it is basted. 
 Directions for making gravy are included in each recipe for 
 the different roasts. Anthracite coal, coke, charcoal, hard- 
 wood embers, and gas afford good heat for roasting, because 
 their heat is intense, and they do not impart any unpleasant 
 odor to the meat. 
 
 BXKING. 
 
 As is said in the preceding paragraph, baking is not the 
 most desirable way of cooking meat ; but the ovens are often 
 available when an open fire cannot be reached. When there 
 are two or more ovens in a stove or range, they should be 
 set apart for the baking for which they are specially adapted. 
 The hottest should be chosen for meats, because equally in 
 baking as in roasting it is desirable that the first exposure of 
 meat should be to the greatest obtainable heat, in order to 
 quickly crisp its surface, and confine its natural juices : be- 
 sides this, there is the additional fact to be remembered, that 
 meat put into a cool oven will sometimes become tainted 
 before it is cooked ; that is, the degree of heat will be high 
 enough to forward rapid decomposition, but not high enough 
 to cook the meat. The oven should be too hot to permit 
 the hand to be held in it even for a moment. It cannot be 
 too hot at first; for, the more quickly the outside of the 
 meat is crisped, the more entirely its juices are retained. 
 The heat can be moderated when it has served this purpose. 
 
 To prepare the meat for baking, wipe it with a cloth wet 
 in cold water, but do not wash it, because that tends, to draw 
 out the juices ; trim oiif all defective portions ; lay it in a 
 baking-pan without salting it, and quickly brown it ; it may 
 then be seasoned, arid "frothed" by dredging it with flour 
 and basting it -with drippings or butter. The bones cut from 
 the joint may be put into the pan with it ; and a little beefr 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. 43 
 
 suet, or salt pork if it is not fat enough to yield drippings, 
 or some scraps of vegetables and sweet herbs, may be used 
 under it. But no water should be put into the pan : the 
 water, even when boiling, is not as hot as the outside of the 
 meat ; and, in addition, the steam which rises from it softens 
 the entire surface of the meat, and draws out its juices. It 
 is futile to expect to restore the extracted juices by means 
 of basting ; if the meat is not washed or salted, and is 
 quickly browned, it will retain its juices so entirely that a rich 
 gravy will flow from it when it is carved. Directions are 
 given elsewhere for making gravy from the drippings of 
 baked meats. 
 
 The reason why separate ovens should be used for meat 
 and pastry is because the particles of fat which fly from the 
 meat while it is baking burn upon the sides of the oven, and 
 impart their odor and flavor to delicate cakes and pastry. 
 Different meats should not be baked in the same pans : the 
 fact that they are often so cooked at hotels and restaurants 
 is one reason why such meats generally lack their distinctive 
 flavor. 
 
 The bread and pastry ovens do not require to be so hot 
 as those in which meat is baked, and means must be devised 
 to moderate their heat when it is excessive; opening the 
 doors, or slides in the doors, of the ovens, cools them rap- 
 idly. Their temperature should always be ascertained be- 
 fore any thing is put into them to cook. All the flues, and 
 the top and bottom of the ovens, should be kept free from 
 ashes, and the dampers should always be in good working 
 order. When an oven is too hot at the top, cool it by open- 
 ing the door, and then guard the top of whatever substance 
 is baking by covering it with buttered paper or with an extra 
 pan turned over it. If the oven is apt to burn from the 
 bottom, cover it half an inch deep with clean sand : this will 
 disperse the superfluous heat evenly throughout the oven. 
 
44 PRACTICAL AMERICAN- COOKERY. 
 
 If an oven will not heat, have it attended to by the stove- 
 maker or tin-smith : if an oven is without ventilation, have 
 the close door changed for one supplied with ventilators. 
 The latest improvement in stove-ovens is the attachment of 
 a wire-gauze door in place of the iron door : the idea is an 
 admirable one. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 The general principles of roasting apply to broiling. The 
 circulation of free air around the meat carries away from it 
 all the smoke arising from the burning fat, at the same time 
 with the products of combustion from the fire. The fire 
 must be hot enough to quickly sear the cut surface of the 
 meat, and only when this is done will the juices be retained. 
 
 Meat for broiling should be cut from an inch to an inch 
 and a half thick ; the surface should be scraped with the 
 back of a knife, to remove sawdust and bonedust, and then 
 wiped with a wet cloth, but not washed. It is useless to 
 attempt to broil well with a poor fire ; for the meat will be 
 smoked, and will lose part of its valuable juices. When the 
 fire is clear, put the meat over it, as close as possible to it, 
 and crisp first one side and then the other ; if thfe fire is very 
 hot, it will not be necessary to turn the meat repeatedly 
 while it is being browned. After both sides of the meat are 
 brown, hold it far enough away from the fire to prevent 
 burning, and finish cooking it to the desired point; when 
 the fire is hot, and the meat cut as directed above, it will 
 cook medium-rare in from fifteen to twenty minutes. A 
 good way to hold the meat away from the fire, after the first 
 browning, is to place two bricks on either side of the open- 
 ing in the stove which contains the fire, and lay the ends of 
 the gridiron upon them ; the distance can be regulated by 
 changing the position of the bricks. 
 
 After the meat is browned on both sides, it can be tested 
 without cutting into it, or removing it from the gridiron, by 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. 45 
 
 quickly pressing the tip of one finger upon it : if, when the 
 pressure is removed, the meat springs up again, the fibre is 
 still elastic because it is uncooked, and if the meat were cut 
 it would be found to be very rare ; when, after the pressure, 
 the surface of the meat slowly returns to its original level, 
 the meat is medium-rare ; when the meat retains the mark 
 of the pressure, it is well done. While the meat is being 
 broiled, heat a dish to receive it : after it is laid upon the 
 hot dish, season it with salt, pepper, and butter, on both 
 sides, and serve it at once. Broiled meat always deterio- 
 rates by being left standing near the fire any length of time 
 after it is cooked. 
 
 FRyiNG. 
 
 Frying proper is performed by entirely immersing any 
 edible substance in enough smoking-hot fat to cover it ; but 
 a form of half-frying is sometimes used for steaks and chops 
 when broiling is out of the question. When this kind of fry- 
 ing is properly done, the meat will be juicy, well-flavored, and 
 will closely resemble broiled meat. It is necessary to make 
 the frying-pan very hot over the fire, before putting the meat 
 into it. Any kind of frying-pan can be used without danger 
 of burning the meat and gravy, except a marbleized-iron 
 pan, which is unsuitable for use over intense heat. When the 
 frying-pan is so hot that it will siss when the meat touches 
 it, put in the meat, and brown it quickly, first upon one side 
 and then upon the other, as in broiling ; then finish cooking 
 it to the desired degree, and season and serve it : in fact, the 
 process is similar to broiling, save that the hot frying-pan 
 replaces the fire. If gravy is desired for fried meat, stir a 
 tablespoonful of dry flour with the little drippings in the fry- 
 ing-pan, and when the flour is brown stir into it a pint of 
 boiling water ; season the gravy with salt and pepper, stir it 
 until it boils, and then serve it in a gravy-bowl. No butter 
 or fat need be put into the pan unless the meat is absolutely 
 
46 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 lean : in that case, use only enough to prevent the burning 
 of the meat. 
 
 The frying of fish-balls, croquettes, doughnuts, and other 
 foods should be done in a deep frying-pan, or round-bot- 
 tomed kettle called a Scotch bowl, half full of drippings, 
 lard, butter, or olive-oil, at choice : olive-oil is the best 
 medium for frying fish of any kind. The fat must be placed 
 over the fire until a thin smoke begins to rise from its sur- 
 face : at that temperature, its heat will crisp the outside of 
 any food put into it, and so prevent that soaking of fat which 
 renders some fried foods so unwholesome. As soon as the 
 fried article is browned to the desired degree, and floats upon 
 the surface of the hot fat, remove it with a skimmer, lay it 
 upon brown paper for a moment to free it from grease, and 
 then serve it at once. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 Boiling consists of immersing any article in actually boiling 
 water, and maintaining the temperature of the water at the 
 boihng-point until the article is cooked. Stewing and sim- 
 mering are forms of boiling, as will be explained hereafter. 
 Rapid and continued boiling slightly hardens the surface of 
 vegetables, thus preserving their form, color, and flavor, and 
 is advantageous : details on this point are given in the re- 
 cipes for cooking vegetables. On the other hand, the hard 
 boiling of meat makes it tough : stewing and simmering are 
 the best ways of cooking meat after it has once been brought 
 to the boiling-point. Salted boiling water is slightly hotter 
 than fresh boiling water : chemists make use of salt to 
 heighten the temperature of water in the bain-marie, or salt- 
 water bath, in which vessels are placed containing boihng 
 substances which require an unvarying high heat. To boil 
 fresh meat, plunge it into salted boiling water, and, when 
 the water boils again, place the vessel containing it where the 
 boiling will be maintained at a gentle degree until the article 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. 47 
 
 is cooked. If salt or smoked meats are to be boiled, place 
 them over the fire in cold water, and let the water gradually 
 approach the boilmg-point ; maintain a gentle boiling until 
 the meat is tender : if the meat is very salt, it may be neces- 
 sary to pour away the first water, and replace it with more 
 that is actually boiling. When salted meats are to be used 
 cold, they are best if allowed to cool in the water in which 
 they are boiled. The details of boiling the different meats, 
 fish, poultry, vegetables, and puddings, are given in the 
 proper recipes. 
 
 Stewing and simmering consist of first bringing any article 
 of food to the boiling-point in water or sauce, and then con- 
 tinuing the cooking at a very gentle rate of boiling until the 
 food is done. These kinds of boiling make food very tender 
 and digestible, and prepare its properties for immediate and 
 complete nutrition : they are invaluable in treating tough 
 meats. 
 
 STEAMING. 
 
 Steaming is an excellent way of cooking, calculated to 
 prepare food for imparting all its nutriment to the system. 
 It preserves all the flavor of food, and prevents its absorption 
 of water when this is undesirable. Steaming can be done in 
 any kind of steamer, or in a closed kettle or mould immersed 
 in boiling water. 
 
 BRAISING. 
 
 Braising consists of cooking any article of food in water 
 or sauce, in a braising-pan. This pan may be either round 
 or oval, with a flat bottom, and a depressed cover made to 
 hold hot coals or ashes. Braising is more practised in 
 Europe than in America, because there fuel is scarce and 
 sxpensive : it was in vogue in this country when cooking was 
 done over open fires, the vessel used being called a bake- 
 kettle or old-fashioned Dutch-oven. The same effect may 
 be produced by putting a covered saucepan containing food 
 
48 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 into a moderately hot oven and so cooking the food to the 
 required degree. 
 
 BLANCHING. 
 
 Any articles of food, except sweetbreads and almonds, are 
 said to be blanched when they have been immersed in boil- 
 ing water for a given length of time : sweetbreads must be 
 previously soaked in cold salted water, and almonds subse- 
 quently rubbed with' a cloth to remove their skins. Details 
 of these tvro operations are given in the appropriate recipes. 
 
 GLAZING AND GILDING. 
 
 Glazing is coating the outside of cooked meat and poultry 
 with melted meat-glaze or concentrated broth, the glazed 
 surface being dried by heat after the glaze is applied with a 
 '")rush. Roasted and baked meats are frequently glazed. 
 
 Gilding is covering any surface of food with the beaten 
 yolk of a raw egg, and subsequently drying or browning it in 
 the oven. Fancy pastry is generally gilded. 
 
 LARDING AND DAUBING. 
 
 Larding is the insertion of small, even-size strips of fat salt 
 pork, tongue, truffles, or any chosen substance, upon the 
 surface of meat, poultry, fish, or game, by means of a little 
 split cylinder of steel called a larding-needle. The lardoons 
 are inserted in the open end of the needle, which is then 
 passed under about half an inch of the surface of the sub- 
 stance to be larded : when the needle is withdrawn, the lar- 
 doon remains, both ends projecting slightly. The lardoons 
 are inserted in diagonal lines, the ends of the second line 
 coming between the ends of the first, and so alternating until 
 all the lardoons are used ; or they are placed to resemble 
 the stitch in needlework called herring-bone. Details of 
 illustration accompany some of the larded entrees given 
 farther on in this volume. 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. 4g 
 
 Daube is q, French term referring to the insertion of a 
 large lardoon with the grain of the meat and through its 
 entire substance, the ends of the lardoon projecting about 
 an inch. In this country, butchers frequently daube beef 
 for the dish called beef a la mode, and call the operation 
 larding. 
 
 BARBING. 
 
 Barding is fastening over the breast of a bird of any kind 
 a large thin slice of fat salt pork, which in cooking serves 
 the purpose of basting. Poultry and game are barded. 
 
 BONING. 
 
 The operation of boning consists of the entire removal 
 of all the bones from uncooked meat, and the insertion in 
 their place of some kind of force-meat. Details for boning 
 various joints of meat are given under the appropriate recipes. 
 Boned poultry and birds of all kinds are prepared according 
 to the following directions. The removal of bones from 
 cooked birds is not to be called boning : those cooks who so 
 prepare chicken, and call it " boned chicken," simply create 
 a confusion of terms. One reason why there is so much 
 uncertainty about American cookery is because many house- 
 keepers modify a standard dish according to their own ideas, 
 and then retain the original name. If they have the ability 
 to improve upon an accepted method, they ought to name 
 their dish, so as to give it individuality, as justly as inventors 
 who improve upon a patent announce the changes by a new 
 name. 
 
 To bone a turkey, or any bird, lay it on a table with the 
 breast down, after it has been carefully plucked, singed, and 
 wiped with a wet towel ; cut off the head, the legs above 
 the middle joint, and the wings within two inches of the 
 body ; with a small, sharp knife, make a smooth cut through 
 the skin and flesh, down the line of the backbone, from the 
 
50 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 neck to the rump ; then begin at the neck to cut off the flesh 
 and skin together from the carcass ; work with the point of 
 the knife, holding it flat against the bone, and cutting all the 
 flesh off attached to the skin ; first cut from the neck to 
 the joint where the wing is connected with the body, then 
 unjoint that, and leave the bone of the wing in the flesh for 
 the present, and continue to cut down the back and sides 
 until the thigh-joint is reached'; unjoint that, leaving the 
 bone in the leg, and cut toward the breast-bone, being care- 
 ful not to cut through the skin where it is stretched tight 
 over the breast. When the flesh of one side of the bird is 
 loosened from the carcass in this way, turn it over, and take 
 off the other side. Great care must be taken not to cut 
 through the carcass into the intestines, which may remain 
 enclosed in it until it is entirely freed from the flesh and 
 skin. The most difficult part of the operation is cutting 
 ofi" the breast without , breaking or tearing the skin : if this 
 accident happens, the aperture must be sewed up before the 
 bird is stuffed. When the flesh is free from the carcass, lay 
 it, skin down, on the table, and distribute the flesh equally 
 all over the skin, cutting the thickest portions, and laying 
 them open like the leaves of a book, so as to cover the skin ; 
 cut out the wing and thigh bones, and turn the flesh and 
 skin inside like the fingers of a glove reversed. Remove 
 the entrails from the carcass, saving the liver ; break apart 
 the bones, put them in a large kettle with four quarts of 
 cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, and let the water 
 heat. Remove all scum as it rises, and when the broth is 
 free from it put in a medium-size carrot and a white turnip 
 peeled and used uncut; a white qpion, peeled without 
 breaking the layers and stuck with a dozen cloves. Hold a 
 small bunch of parsley in the palm of the left hand ; lay on 
 it a small stalk of celery, a bay-leaf, a sprig of any sweet 
 herb except sage, a blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns 
 
METHODS OF COOKING. SI 
 
 or a small red-pepper pod ; fold the parsley so as to enclose 
 all the other seasonings, and tie it in a compact little bundle ; 
 this is called a bouquet, ox fagot of herbs, in French cookery- 
 books, and serves to give an indescribable and delicious 
 flavor to the dishes in which it is cooked ; add it to the 
 broth, and then put on the turkey to boil, after stuffing it 
 as directed in the recipe for forcemeat for boned turkey. 
 
 The four recipes for boning a turkey, for preparing the 
 forcemeat for stuffing it, and for making caramel and aspic 
 jelly, comprise the entire operation of boning, cooking, and 
 garnishing boned turkey. These directions are taken from 
 the author's " Baltimore Recipes," a set which includes the 
 dishes taught during one of her lecture-courses in that city. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 CARVING. 
 
 IF a little reasoning were applied to carving, it would seem 
 far less difficult than it is supposed to be. A little atten- 
 tion to the location in a bird, fish, or joint of meat, of the 
 bones and joints, enables any person with a tolerably correct 
 eye and steady hand to strike and separate the joints and 
 sinews of small dishes, and to avoid the unmanageable bones 
 in the larger ones. The cuts in this chapter will serve to 
 illustrate the garnishing of dishes as well as carving. 
 
 WHOLE FISH. 
 
 The carving of fish is simple. The following cut repre- 
 sents a baked fish garnished with parsley. Before cooking, 
 the fins and tail are trimmed close, and several deep cuts 
 made in each side of the fish to permit the gravy or drip- 
 pings used for basting to penetrate the flesh ; the head is 
 left on, because some persons prefer the small flakes of flesh 
 which Ke under and back of the eyes. The fish is laid upon 
 a little sauce or a folded napkin, on a hot dish, and garnished 
 with a Httie parsley. To carve either a baked or a boiled 
 fish, run the fish-knife by the side of the back fin, from the 
 figure I to 2 ; next, cut from the back fin down to the middle 
 of the under part of the 'fish, following the dotted lines; 
 then, by slipping the fish-knife under the cut portions, they 
 can be easily lifted off and served. After one side has been 
 52 
 
CARVING. 
 
 S3 
 
 served, the fish can be laid over upon the dish, and the other 
 side served in the same way ; this gives a portion of both 
 
 ; / / / I I I- I I I ! / i 
 
 Baked Fish garnished with Parsley, 
 
 the thick flesh of the back and the thin gelatinous fat part 
 so esteemed by epicures. 
 
 SEAD AND SHOULDERS OF FISH. 
 
 The engraving here given shows the head and shoulders 
 of a large fish garnished with turned vegetables and parsley. 
 The platter containing the fish is placed over a hot-water dish. 
 To carve such a cut of fish, cut from the direction of the 
 
 Head and Shoulders of Fish. 
 
 figure I towards 2, following the dotted line ; then cut from 
 the top of the back down to the under part, in the direction 
 of the dotted hnes : this will enable the carver to serve 
 either the thick portion from the back of the neck, or the 
 
54 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 under part which is rich and gelatinous. This is a favorite 
 way of serving boiled salmon, or cod's head and shoulders. 
 
 FISH LARDED AND BAKED. 
 
 This cut gives a very good idea of a fish larded and baked, 
 and then garnished with mushrooms, turned vegetables, and 
 parsley. The operation of larding is described elsewhere. 
 To serve the fish, cut across the lower edge of the larded 
 portion, in the direction from i to 2, and then cut from 
 the centre of the back down the larded side, following the 
 
 Fish larded and baked. 
 
 dotted lines. Serve the larded portion, and some of the 
 vegetable garnish and the sauce ; usually a bowl of sauce 
 accompanies this dish to the table. 
 
 BALF LARGE BOILED FISB. 
 
 This picture represents half a large fish, such as fluke, 
 turbot, or chicken halibut, boiled, and garnished with 
 parsley. To serve it, cut from the outer edge towards 
 the middle, and lift the slices off with the fish-knife. The 
 dotted lines indicate the direction which the knife should 
 take. Half a medium-size turbot will serve about ten 
 people. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 55 
 
 Half Large boiled Fish. 
 WHOLE TURBOT GARNISHED. 
 
 When a large turbot. chicken halibut, or fluke is served 
 entire, it is made an important part of the course, and much 
 care is bestowed upon the garnishing of the dish. The 
 engraving represents a turbot garnished with lobster, a craw- 
 fish, and parsley. The fish is boiled in a special kettle, to 
 prevent breaking. While it is being boiled, a large lobster 
 is cooked, and the meat removed from the shell without 
 
 Wliole Turbot garnished. 
 
 breaking it apart ; this can easily be done by cutting away 
 a portion of the under part of the shell with a can-opener, 
 and removing the flesh as entire as possible ; the available 
 
56 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 part of the flesh is then cut in large slices, to be used as 
 shown in the picture between the crawfish and the lobster- 
 shell. The sUces are kept in place by being put upon a 
 long flexible skewer ; and the crawfish and lobster are held 
 upon the fish by a long ornamental skewer called a hatelet, 
 or atekt. The smaller pieces of lobster, and the fat and 
 coral, are made into lobster sauce, to serve with the boiled 
 fish. To carve the turbot, follow the dotted lines, first cut- 
 ting from I towards 2, and then, along the dotted lines. The 
 under gelatinous part and the thick portion of the fins are 
 most esteemed by epicures ; from the back, the best slices 
 are from the middle of the dark side. In preparing the 
 fish for cooking, leave on the fins ; cleanse it carefully in 
 plenty of cold water, nibbing salt plentifully over it, and then 
 dry it with a soft cloth ; cut a lemon, dip the cut side in salt, 
 and rub it over the white side of the fish before boiling it. 
 
 Other directions for carving fish will be given with the 
 recipes for cooking the different dishes. 
 
 poultry: 
 After some attention has been paid to the location of the 
 joints, care should be taken, in carving poultry, to fix it 
 firmly with the fork to prevent slipping in the dish, and 
 then to make clean cuts from the point where the knife is 
 inserted. To hack the flesh, is to destroy' much of the 
 satisfaction of the eater ; besides, well-carved poultry serves 
 so many more at table than that which is hacked and torn. 
 It is quite possible to take from a chicken which weighs 
 about four pounds cooked, at least fourteen good pieces, 
 averaging in size about three inches square. Of course it 
 would not be feasible to illustrate the carving which accom- 
 plishes such a result, without many designs showing the suc- 
 cessive stages in carving ; but some description is included 
 in that of the following cut of a fowl outlined for carving. 
 
CARVING. 57 
 
 LARDED FOWL. 
 
 The strings used to keep the fowl in shape while cooking 
 will of course be removed by the cook before it is served. 
 To carve it, first insert the fork firmly in the breast-bone, 
 at the point marked by the figure i ; instead of cutting off 
 the entire leg, first cut off the drumsticks at 2, and then the 
 second joints, thus avoiding one of the most uncomfortable 
 parts of carving poultry ; with a very sharp, thin-bladed carv- 
 
 Larded Fowl. 
 
 9 
 
 ing-knife, the entire fowl can be carved without removing the 
 fork from the breast-bone. After the drumsticks and secon/d 
 joints are taken off, cut at the dotted line marked 3, in 
 towards the^body, removing the wings ; next insert the point 
 of the knife between the neck-bone where it joins the back- 
 bone and the wing-side-bone, — a small flat bone which 
 unites with the collar of the breast-bone at the dotted line 
 marked 4, about midway of the merry-thought or wish-bone, 
 — and cut back towards the wing-joint, and thence down- 
 wafds parallel with the upper part of the back-bone. With 
 the wing-side-bone remove a portion of the white meat of the 
 upper part of the breast. After the legs, wings, and wing- 
 side-bones are removed, and the merry-thought taken off if 
 
58 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 it is desired separate, the point of the carving-knife can be 
 inserted where the ribs join the sides of the breast-bone, 
 where the dotted line marked 5 joins the dotted line 4 ; by 
 turning the sharp edge of the knife outwards, the point being 
 towards the thigh, and cutting from the inside out through 
 the ribs where they join the breast-bone to the point at the 
 lower end of the breast-bone marked 6, on both sides of 
 the bird, the breast and entire back of the fowl can be sepa- 
 rated. As the carving-fork still remains in the breast-bone, 
 the breast can be cut in as many pieces as are desired be- 
 fore it is withdrawn. Finally, the back-bone can be broken 
 where it joins the lower part of the ribs, at figure 7, and the 
 two thigh-side-bones and the rump cut apart. A little study 
 of this diagram and description, and practice with a reason- 
 ably tender fowl, will soon enable the carver to proceed with 
 ease and precision. 
 
 TO CARVE BOAST TURKEY. 
 
 The directions for carving a fowl will apply to a turkey 
 unless it is a very large one, and then probably only the 
 
 /lOast Turftetf, Breast carved. 
 
 breast and second joints of the legs will be required; in this 
 case, cut off the drumsticks and second joints as directed in 
 
CARVING. 59 
 
 the carving of fowls, and then cut the breast as follows : first 
 cut through the middle of the breast, following the line from 
 I to 2 ; and then follow the dotted line from i, across the 
 lower part of the breast, around the thigh and wing and 
 across the breast where it joins the neck ; after that, cut out 
 slices of the breast in the direction of the dotted Unes, cut- 
 ting quite down to the bone, and then running the knife- 
 blade close to the breast-bone to disengage the flesh from it. 
 Sometimes the slices are taken off the breast in diagonal 
 cuts, but that method does not equally divide the two filets 
 of the breast. 
 
 TURKEY PARTLY BONED. 
 
 When all the bones have been removed from a fowl or 
 turkey before roasting, except the wing and drumstick bones. 
 
 earning of Turhey partly boneU. 
 
 slices may be cut as shown in the annexed cut. A recipe is 
 given elsewhere for the preparation of this dish, which is 
 garnished with aspic jelly and parsley. The first cut is made 
 down the middle of the breast, from i to z ; and then the 
 curved slices are made, cutting down into the forcemeat, or 
 stufjfing, of the bird. 
 
 BOW TO CARVE DUCKS. 
 
 When ducks are served, it is advisable to have a pair, 
 because only the breast is to be relied upon for tender flesh. 
 
6o 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The dotted lines show the direction which the knife should 
 take in carving, the cuts being made quite down to the 
 breast-bone. The remahider of the carcass will make an 
 
 Ducks oarued. 
 
 excellent ragoUt ; or a puree of game, if the ducks are wild. 
 The garnish of ducks may be fried parsley or fresh wajter- 
 cress. 
 
 sow TO CARVE ROAST GOOSE. 
 
 A goose is so large that it is seldom necessary to carve 
 the entire bird. The breast can be cut in the direction of 
 the dotted lines from i to 2, and then from a semi-circulai 
 
 Roast 600S& carued. 
 
 cut at the dotted hne 3 some of the forcemeat, or stuffing df 
 the bird can be taken. The garnish of the goose here 
 shown is small tart apples fried whole, and small sausages 
 broiled. If the entire bird is to be used, the drumsticks, 
 
CARVING. 6 1 
 
 thighs, and wings can be taken off at the dotted lines, and as 
 much more cut as is desired, according to the directions given 
 for carving fowls. 
 
 GAME-BIRDS. 
 
 The wild ducks are carved as shown in the engraving of 
 roast ducks if they are large ; if small, half the entire breast 
 is cut out in one piece, and served to one guest. The re- 
 
 Roast Woodcock garnished. 
 
 mainder of the birds is used for ragoAts and purees. The 
 smaller birds, such as wild pigeons and squabs, quail, wood- 
 cocks, and the various snipe, are served entire. Sometimes, 
 if woodcock are very large, one cut may be made down the 
 middle of the bird from i to 2. The toast under woodcock 
 is always served with the bird. The gai:nish of the dish 
 
 Roast Pheasant, 
 
 here shown is parsley and blood-oranges : there is no more 
 acceptable garnish for birds than sub-acid oranges. 
 
 The large game-birds, such as pheasants, partridge. 
 
62 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 grouse, moor-fowl, and prairie-chicken, are carved from the 
 breast when they are large, and quartered or halved when of 
 medium size. The cut of a pheasant will give a good idea 
 of the carving of the different birds : the pheasant repre- 
 sented here is larded ; the head, neck, and tail are added 
 after the bird is cooked ; and it is served on toast, garnished 
 with lemon and parsley. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 The carving of joints of meat is much simpler than poul- 
 try, once the position of the bones is understood. It is 
 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 often possible to remove many of the bones of meat before 
 cooking it ; and this is desirable on the score of economy, 
 as well as for convenience in carving. 
 
 The first picture represents a leg of mutton cut through 
 the choice part. Make the first cuts in the direction of the 
 lines marked i and 2, and then follow the dotted lines : this 
 will give slices of alternate fat and lean. When this does 
 not afford enough for serving, other slices can be taken from 
 the outer side of the leg, cutting around the bone in the 
 same way. 
 
 MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED. 
 
 Both the leg and shoulder of mutton can be used very 
 advantageously if the bone is removed, and the joint filled 
 
CARVING. 
 
 63 
 
 with a good stuffing before it is cooked. The accompany- 
 ing cut shows a loin and leg, boned, stuffed, and baked. 
 
 Leg of Mutton boned. 
 
 with a garnish of small balls of turnip boiled. The dotted 
 lines show the direction of the first cuts : the final cut, from 
 I to 2, releases the slices. Or the joint can be served by 
 carving it directly from the large end, entirely down through 
 the meat. 
 
 SADDLE OF MUTTON LARDED. 
 
 The saddle, or double loin, of mutton, is carved in a line 
 
 Saddle of Mutton larded. 
 
 with the back-bone, from i to 2, the knife running down 
 through the lean quite to the bone. When the saddle is 
 
64 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 very large, these slices may be cut in two parts. The fat is 
 to be cut in the direction of the dotted lines at 3. 
 
 ROUND OF BEEF. 
 
 The fresh round of beef closely filled with pieces of fat 
 salt pork, or with a rich stuffing inserted with the grain, is 
 carved across the grain, downward from one end, if it is 
 placed on the platter as shown in the annexed cut. When 
 the grain of the meat is presented lying upward from the 
 
 Beef d ta mode. 
 
 platter, the cuts are then made across the surface. A small 
 slice of fat is generally cut' with each slice of lean. The 
 garnish of the beef is of boiled vegetables. The dish is 
 often called beef a la mode, although it should be called a 
 la daube. 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 
 
 The sirloin of beef, which is the portion cut into the beef- 
 steaks called "porterhouse," is carved in the direction of 
 the dotted lines which range between the figures i and 2 ; the 
 tenderloin, ox filet, is carved in the dotted lines from 3 to 4, 
 after the joint has been raised on the, fork, with the bone 
 resting on the platter, so as to permit the knife to enter the 
 meat from the bottom. A small piece of fat is served with 
 
CARVING. 
 
 65 
 
 each slice of meat. When the bone has been removed, and 
 the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon the 
 
 If 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 
 platter on one end, and an even slice is taken across the 
 grain of the upper surface. 
 
 RIBS OR SIRLOIN OF BEEF BONED. 
 
 When beef is boned and rolled tightly before it is cooked, 
 it can be carved to much better advantage than when the 
 
 Hibs or Sirloin boned. 
 
 bones remain in it. Either the ribs or the sirloin can be 
 treated in this way. A sharp, thin-bladed knife is used to 
 remove the bones ; and the meat is then rolled and tied cor»' 
 
66 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 pactly ; after it is cooked, the? string used to secure it is re- 
 moved, and the meat served with a garnish of vegetables if 
 they are desired. The accotnpanying picture shows a gar- 
 nish of white turnips cut to resemble cups, and filled with 
 green peas after both are cooked. -The cylindrical pieces of 
 vegetables may be made of carrots or turnips, and the little 
 balls of potatoes. The two ornamental skewers at the ends 
 are called hatelets. The meat is to be carved from the top 
 downward, in the direction of the dotted lines from i to 2, 
 either to the bottom or to the cross-line : in the latter case, 
 the garnish need not be disturbed until the entire roll is 
 carved. 
 
 BEEF-T0NGT7ES GARNISHED. 
 
 Smoked tongues are most palatable when served with a 
 garnish, which may include truffles as shown in the engrav- 
 ing. The truffles are cut in long, sharp cubes, and inserted 
 
 Beef-Tongues garnished. 
 
 in quenelles, or large oval pieces of poached forcemeat r the 
 smaller quenelles are made of plain forcemeat. A plainer 
 garnish can be made of different vegetables. The upper 
 part of the tongues can be carved in the direction of the 
 dotted lines, between i and 2, or cut entirely through- from 
 the tip to the root as preferred. When the tongues are served 
 cold, the vegetables must be suitably chosen for the garnish,. 
 and the quenelles highly seasoned and free from grease. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 67 
 
 ROAST HAM. 
 
 The choice portion of a ham lies between the lines i and 
 2 in the accompanying engraving. In carving, the cuts are 
 made from the upper surface, towards the bone in the centre 
 of the ham. After the ham is cooked, the skin is removed 
 
 Roast Ham. 
 
 from the greater part of it, and the end of the bone is 
 trimmed off and ornamented with a paper frill. The engrav- 
 ing represents a hot roast ham garnished with hot string- 
 beans, rissoles or little meat turnovers fried, and boiled 
 vegetables cut with a small pear-shaped scoop. A cold ham 
 would not have the vegetable garnish. 
 
 COLD HAM WITH ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 The accompanying engraving represents a cold roast or 
 boiled ham garnished with aspic jelly. It can be carved in 
 the same way as the hot ham, or in thin slices from the end, 
 following the dotted lines from i to 2. The oval stand upon 
 which the ham rests is usually made of wood, and covered 
 with white paper, or a thin coating of hard white fat or of 
 aspic jelly, applied with a brush while melted, and allowed 
 to cool before placing the ham. 
 
68 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Cold Ham with Aspic Jelly. 
 BAND OR LEG Or YOUNG PORK. 
 
 The hand of pork consists of the foot and leg of a young 
 pig. The engraving shows the hand boned, stufifed, and 
 served with a garnish of boiled sprouts or "greens." The 
 carving can be done according to the dotted hnes, or by be- 
 
 Hand of Pork. 
 
 ginning at the upper end, and cutting directly down to the 
 dish : this gives a portion of the meat and the forcemeat, 
 and the garnish can be served at will. 
 
 SADDLE or VENISON. 
 
 Venison, when served as a saddle, is carved somewhat like 
 mutton, although the two joints shown in the pictures are 
 trimmed differently before cooking, and the saddle of mutton 
 is larded. The dotted lines from i to 2 show the position 
 of the best portion of the lean : the choice fat lies near the 
 
CARVING. 
 
 69 
 
 kidneys, and is reached by cutting through the thin part at 
 the end of the ribs between the figures 3 and 4. Currant- 
 jelly is usually served with venison, and the vegetable gar- 
 nish is of turnips, string-beans, and potato-balls : cauliflower 
 
 Saddle of Venison, 
 
 is a good accompaniment for venison; and currant-sauce, 
 currant-jelly sauce, vinegar and claret sauces, and venison- 
 gravy are sent to the table with it. 
 
 LARDED SADDLE OF VENISON. 
 
 A saddle of venison designed for larding is more closely 
 trimmed, and cut a little shorter, than the ordinary saddle. 
 
 Larded Saddle of Venison. 
 
 It can be carved in the same way, from i to 2 ; or slices 
 may be cut downward in the line from 3 to 4, as loin chops 
 are cut, through both fat and lean. The garnish consists of 
 
70 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 . String- Deans, small cups of turnips filled with green peas, or 
 stuffed artichoke bottoms, and truffles. All venison should 
 be served very hot. 
 
 LARDED SHOULDER OF VENISON. 
 
 When the shoulder of venison is larded, it is usually carved 
 through the larded portion in the direction of the dotted 
 lines running between the figures i and 2. It is sometimes 
 boned and stuffed, and then the carving may be downward 
 from 3 towards 4, through the entire joint, especially if manj 
 
 Larded Shoulder of Venison. 
 
 persons are to be served. A plain shoulder of venison is 
 carved like a shoulder of mutton. The garnish of the 
 larded shoulder is stoned olives and turned vegetables. 
 
 BARDED HARE. 
 
 The accompanying cut represents a hare dressed and 
 placed on a spit for roasting, after being barded, or partly 
 covered with a large slice of fat salt pork. The strings 
 which confine the pork are removed before the hare is 
 served, but the pork remains upon it. When the hare is 
 cooked with forcemeat, or served with a garnish, a portion 
 of either and of the pork used for barding is to be served. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 71 
 
 Barded and larded hares are preferable to those which are 
 cooked plain, because the hare is naturally dry meat ; a good 
 
 Barded Hare. 
 
 sauce or gravy should always be served with hare, 
 carving of barded and larded hare is similar. 
 
 The 
 
 LARDED HARE. 
 
 The dotted lines in the following engraving of a larded 
 hare will serve also to illustrate the carving of a barded hare. 
 The larded hare is garnished with small birds barded and 
 roasted, and with fried parsley. To carve a portion of 
 the hare when there are a few persons to be served, insert the 
 point of a sharp knife where the union of the head and body 
 is indicated by the Une marked i, and cut along the side of 
 the back-bone toward the line at the top of the thigh marked 
 2 ; then follow the dotted lines marked 3, from the middle 
 
72 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of the back down to the under part of the hare ; run the 
 knife under the meat, close to the back-bone and the ribs, 
 and cut off the pieces ; serve a bird with each one, and 
 some of the sauce, and the forcemeat if the hare is stuffed. 
 When the entire hare is to be carved, first take off the shoul- 
 ders, cutting from 4 to 5, and then insert the knife between 
 the leg and the body; bend the shoulder away from it; 
 the few remaining bits of flesh which hold the shoulder to the 
 body can then be severed ; the thighs can then be removed 
 
 Larded Hare. 
 
 in the same way, cutting from 6 to 7 ; next the head can be 
 cut off, following the line from i to 8 ; the entire body can 
 then be split down one side of the back-bone, from i to 6, 
 and both sides of the ribs divided along the lines marked 3. 
 The head is a favorite portion with epicures, the ears and 
 brains being especially prized : it is carved by cutting apart 
 the upper and lower jaws at the line marked 9 ; the upper 
 part of the head can then be cut open from 10 to 11. A 
 medium-size hare will serve six or eight persons. Forcemeat- 
 balls, pickled gherkins,^ lemon, and currant-jelly, are the 
 plainer garnishes for roast hare. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 
 
 WE are all so unconsciously affected by surroundings, 
 that a homelike room at once impresses us with an 
 indefinable sense of comfort and welcome. A pretty aspect 
 inspires us with cheer; a gloomy one depresses. Of all 
 rooms in the house, the dining-room should be the cheeriest, 
 because it is there that all the members of the family are 
 most likely to congregate. No matter how widely the inter- 
 ests and occupations of father, mother, and children may 
 separate them at other times of the day, the fact remains 
 that at least one-fifth of their waking hours will probably- be 
 spent at the table. The intent business-man may find scant 
 time for the ordinary social pleasures which may attract the 
 other members of his family to the sitting-room, library, or 
 drawing-room ; but to the dining-room he must go if he 
 ever lives at home. And for this reason, if for no other, 
 when all the apartments of a house cannot be made equally 
 attractive, preference should be given to this, the one most 
 used in common. 
 
 Many dining-rooms that we remember are furnished with 
 dark wood ; the walls are gloomy, or covered with dismal 
 pictures of dead game and fish ;*the windows hung with stuff 
 curtains, and the outlook is upon stone walls or paved courts. 
 The ideal dining-room is bright with sun- or lamp-light ; the 
 window-draperies are such as to temper but not exclude air 
 
 73 
 
74 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and sunshine ; the pictures are of fruit or still life with bright 
 colors J the chairs are comfortable, and the temperature a 
 pleasant medium between heat and cold. The most modest 
 establisliment admits these possibilities, and from them the 
 plainest repast gains a charm. Even where space is so lim- 
 ited that one room must answer both for the preparation and 
 service of food, neatness and order can be maintained ; and 
 a little attention to the principles of ventilation will insure 
 that freshness of the atmosphere which is so essential to the 
 enjoyment of food. 
 
 A VERT SIMPLE DINING-ROOM. 
 
 Let us take an instance from the simplest effort at house- 
 keeping; say, that the kitchen and dining-room are one. 
 The floor may be bare ; indeed, a wooden floor, clean, or 
 stained to imitate dark wood, with one or more rugs, ^- which 
 may be of rag-carpeting, drugget, or finer goods, — is prefer- 
 able to a carpeted floor. For the same reason, wooden or 
 bamboo bUnds, or thin curtains of linen or cotton, are better 
 than woollen window-draperies, because all woollen fabrics 
 retain odors persistently. The walls can be clean, if there 
 are no pictures ; and if the chairs are of the straightest out- 
 line, they can be made comfortable with inexpensive cush- 
 ions. There is no condition of hfe so lowly as to preclude 
 the possibility of neatness at the table ; if there is no linen, 
 the table itself can be clean ; if the supply of dishes is lim- 
 ited, it is far more kindly and gracious for the wife or daughr 
 ter to rise from the table, and wash the plates and cutlery, 
 than to allow meat and pudding to be eaten with the same 
 apphances. When there is plenty of crockery, the trouble 
 is shght Goiiipared with the subsequent comfort, if one of the 
 family rises to bring clean plates and knives to replace the 
 soiled ones ; and the dignity of the most charming daughter 
 of the house could suflfer no detraction if she were to remove 
 
THE DIiXliya-KOOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 75 
 
 the crumbs from the cloth before placing the dessert upon 
 it. A hungry man, pressed for time, perhaps hot and labor- 
 stained, comes home for dinner ; if he finds a freshly laid 
 table awaiting him, with a neat little wife who has taken a 
 few moments to tidy herself after cooking, ready to give him 
 a hot and savory dinner, and looking as if she had not taken 
 too much trouble to prepare either the dinner or herself for 
 his coming, the chances are that he will feel an involuntary 
 inclination to freshen himself before beginning his meal : if, 
 on the other hand, he is greeted with the unwelcome sight 
 of a disorderly table, ill-cooked food served in slovenly fash- 
 ion, and a frowzy wife without a suggestion about her of the 
 trim girl who first attracted his fancy, no one can blame him 
 if he throws himself into his chair unwashed, bolts his food 
 surlily, and hurries away from such a foretaste of purgatory. 
 
 Just here a bit of the philosophy of common life fits ad- 
 murbly, — the adaptability of persons to circumstances ; the 
 ever-recurring forbearance with the individual idiosyncrasies 
 of different members of the family; consideration for per- 
 sonal traits and peculiarities. Every newly married wife, 
 and some old ones, would do well to heed this little com- 
 mentary on careless living. No matter how limited the 
 household fittings, they can be kept clean : and, above all 
 things, personal cleanliness is a matter of personal choice. 
 Take the dinner — any family dinner may be served in the 
 plainest way, and accepted by its eaters as a good dinner ; 
 but with the addition of a Htde care in dishing and serving, 
 it may assume the aspect of a holiday feast. One of my 
 Syracuse friends, when considering the merits of rival candi- 
 dates for the supremacy of her kitchen, had this qualification 
 urged upon her : " Mem, I have lived with Mrs. W. on James 
 Street, and she always has her dishes varnished.'' Of course 
 the girl intended to say " garnished." Think for a moment 
 of the difference. Our bill of fare may be plain, — roast 
 
^6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 mutton with mashed potatoes, a dish of sliced tomatoes, 
 and cups of custard or blancmange : that is a very simple 
 dinner. By putting around the mutton on the dish a few 
 green leaves of parsley, celery, or watercress, the plain dish 
 is made ornamental ; the mashed potatoes can be heaped 
 lightly on a platter, and browned in a hot oven, before serv- 
 ing them; the sliced tomatoes can be arranged in even 
 circles in a pretty dish or salad-bowl, with a few green 
 sprigs of celery, parsley, or cress, in the centre; and the 
 custard or blancmange, after being turned from the cups, can 
 be ornamented by cutting a little hollow in the top of each, 
 with a teaspoon, and filKng it with a piece of any brightly 
 colored jelly. With a clean cloth and napkins, and brightly 
 polished cutlery and glass, the plain dinner takes on the 
 aspect of a feast; and all these little embeUishments are 
 within the reach of very modest households. 
 
 DECOBATnrE ART THE REFLEX OF NATURE. 
 
 Whether the family resources are narrow, or admit of some 
 indulgence of taste in the choice of decorations in living- 
 rooms, one rule should be followed : Do not encourage 
 shams : let every thing be genuine. Do not paint wood to 
 imitate bronze, or plaster to look like stone. Follow nature, 
 and good taste will not be offended. Do not substitute the 
 grotesque for the graceful, or make a sacrifice of comfort to 
 carry out an idea. Remember that there is an eternal fit- 
 ness in things. Comfort and taste can easily be combined. 
 We may trust human nature to suggest the former : the latter 
 is the fruit of unrecognized passing influences. The chance 
 glimpse of a beautiful picture, the warmth of color flashing 
 from some luxuriant country garden or glowing mass of 
 flowers in a florist's window, the waving of sun-lit branches, 
 the shifting panorama of the sky, — all feed our artistic in- 
 spirations. From art and nature, culture comes to the fancy 
 
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. "JJ 
 
 ardent enough to admit its impressions. And the degree 
 of culture possible to individuals shows itself in the homes 
 they make for themselves. The family living-room may be 
 plain in its appointments ; but there is no reason why every 
 one of its uncomfortable angles should not be filled with soft, 
 restful cushions. The children leave traces of their growing- 
 up in it. The faces of the old people who have there lived 
 out their lives look down from its walls. The atmosphere is 
 pregnant with personalities, if we will but feel them ; so all 
 these homely places are sacred to sweet and tender memo- 
 ries. We should never seek to change the aspect of our 
 homes when we open them to our friends, if we want them 
 to feel at home with us. We may sweep and freshen, if we 
 will, for cleanliness and order are the first of home virtues ; 
 but we need not mask our houses any more than we would 
 ourselves when we play the host. Good cheer and pleasant 
 welcome, such as ought always to rule, are the soul of 
 hospitality. 
 
 SIDEBOARDS AND TABLES. 
 
 In fitting the dining-room, its capacities should be studied. 
 Unless there is ample space, no superfluous ornamentation 
 should be attempted : all desirable room should be given to 
 the necessary furniture: A movable extension-table for the 
 centre of the room, and a side-table for carving and another 
 for extra table furniture, will be needed, in addition to a 
 buffet or sideboard. This carving-table can be made with 
 side or corner supports holding shelves, and mounted on 
 rollers so that it can be brought near the dining-table when 
 it is required. The next two cuts are taken from Dubois, and 
 show a movable table and hot-closet combined, with folding 
 door upon one side, which can be opened in order to expose 
 the dishes to the heat of the fire, and doors at the front 
 through which the dishes can be arranged before the fire. 
 
 The sideboard may be of any fancied design which affords 
 
78 THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 
 
 Front of Hot-eloset, with Doott. 
 
PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. Jg 
 
 the convenience of shelves for plate and table ornaments, 
 and drawers and under-closets for linen, cutlery, plate, and 
 fine glass-ware. The drawers used for plate, and the under- 
 closets, should be provided with locks. A massive old- 
 fashioned sideboard of great beauty was arched in the centre 
 of the lower part, to afford space for a carved wine-cooler of 
 the same general design, provided with a shelved compart- 
 ment for salads and cold dessert-dishes. The kettle-drum 
 tables for afternoon teas are small and portable, with a double 
 shelf fixed under the top, midway of the legs, to hold extra 
 cups and plates. But these tables belong in the parlor or 
 reception-rooms, where refreshments are passed upon trays, 
 and either held by the guests or placed upon some conven- 
 ient stand. There should be several such tables in a room. 
 
 When a looking-glass or mirror is used, either as part of 
 a sideboard or for wall decoration in the dining-room, care 
 should be taken that no rays of sunlight strike it ; because 
 their chemical action will destroy the perfect distribution of 
 the amalgam with which the reverse of the glass is coated, 
 and so cause an appearance of granulation or crystallization 
 upon the surface of the mirror. 
 
 DECORATIONS OF CHINA AND PLATE. 
 
 When fine china or old pieces of plate are used in deco- 
 rating the dining-room, they should be disposed above the 
 doors and fireplace, on shelves or bra.ckets. The over- 
 mantel can be made a beautiful part of dining-room decora- 
 tion ; and a railed bracket can be run around the entire room 
 just above the head, after the fashion shown in the drawings 
 given elsewhere of the dining-room ■ in which the table is 
 laid. 
 
 In the summer, when the open fire is not needed, the 
 fireplace can be hidden by a curtain, run upon a rod set 
 under the edge of the mantle-shelf; this curtain should not 
 
80 THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 
 
 mv^'^^w^t 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ \\\ 
 
 fiacA of Hot-closet, facing the Fire. 
 
PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 8 1 
 
 be made of the double-faced canton flannel, or fashion- 
 cloth, because the material is very inflammable ; any othei 
 fancy woollen fabric will answer the purpose. 
 
 CHAIRS FOR THE DINING-ROOM. 
 
 Dining-chairs should be rather lightly constructed, so that 
 they can be mov^d with ease ; they can be made absolutely 
 comfortable with practicable cushions, and small hassocks 
 can be placed under the table for additional comfort. 
 
 WINDOWS AND DRAPERIES. 
 
 The arrangement of windows in the dining-room deserves 
 attention. Not only the aspect of the room, but its health- 
 fulness, depends upon the free admission of light and air. 
 The use of any other material than woollen has already been 
 advocated for window-hangings ; the coolest for summer 
 are bamboo or Venetian blinds, movable at will upon cords 
 worked from inside the windows. An improvement upon 
 the outside window-bUnd opening from the middle lifts the 
 two blinds from their hinges, unites them in the centre, and 
 then, by hinges at the top of the casement, lowers or raises 
 them at will ; a very simple form of movable cloth awning 
 described by the author in "Harper's Bazar" of Sept. 22, 
 T883, answers the same purpose ; and either contrivance 
 replaces the more expensive regulation window-awning. 
 
 The East-Indian devices called punkahs and tatties — 
 thick screens of woven fragrant rushes, hung before doors 
 or windows, and saturated with water — cool the air of the 
 room perceptibly. A woollen blanket, or even a thick sheet, 
 suspended in such openings, and kept wet, will lower the 
 interior temperature from 7° to 10° Fah., even in sultry 
 summer weather. In any case, this fact is to be remem- 
 bered : of all materials, woollen will the longest retain 
 moisture and odor, and therefore is the least desirable for 
 
8Z PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 draping dining-rdom windows or doors, unless they are to be 
 kept wet to cool the air. 
 
 When the outlook of dining-room windows is upon blank 
 walls and paved yards, the unsightly prospect may be hidden 
 without excluding light, by using Madras-muslin' curtains, or 
 any similar opaque drapery which permits the free passage 
 of light and air. Figured lace, cheese-cloth, sheer nettings 
 \yith dried fern or autumn leaves gummed upon them, will 
 serve this purpose. Window-glass may be made opaque by 
 patting it gently in every part with a piece of soft putty 
 enclosed in a sheer muslin fabric, and then drying the sur- 
 face of the glass ; of course this will not admit of washing. 
 There are many pretty patented devices of semi-transparent 
 imitations of stained glass, which can be applied to ordinary 
 glass windows when the expense of genuine stained or painted 
 glass cannot be incurred, When there is both rrioney and 
 space at will, there can be no more appropriate or enjoyable 
 window-decoration than that of stained or painted glass. 
 The infinite variety in form and coloring offered in artistic 
 and lovely designs makes an embarrassrnent of riches in this 
 form of decoration. 
 
 LIGHT IN THE DINING-ROOM. 
 
 If it is possible to admit sunshine to the dining-room, it 
 should be done ; at least, plenty of light should be secured. 
 In California, where the climate permits open windows, and 
 where the houses are generally detached, the fashion prevails 
 of building bay-windows to catch from all points the sun- 
 shine and wandering airs that charm the senses in all seasons. 
 When location permits, the windows of the dining-room 
 should reflect harmonies of light and color. In the country 
 this is possible, as also is the delight of an put-door dining- 
 room upon the piazza or lawn ; but in cities the dependence 
 for such accessories must be placed upon neutral-tinted walls 
 
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 83 
 
 and draperies, enlivened by freshly colored pictures, the light 
 of open fires, and the soft colors of candle-flame and shaded 
 lamps. If there can be only one open fire in the house, 
 put it in the dining-room. One of the most acceptable 
 effects of light is obtainable from the use of colored tissue 
 paper for lamp-shades. The loveliest remembered one was 
 seen in a delightful Southern home, — a lamp entirely hidden 
 in a mass of pink roses, so artistically concealed that real 
 sunlight seemed shining through a cloud of roses. These 
 flower lamp-shades can be made by any deft fingers. They 
 are quite safe to use until the paper becomes very dry and 
 crisp, nearly charred by the heat of the lamp; then they 
 should be renewed. Candles and lamps give a softer and 
 more acceptable light than gas ; and there are now so many 
 devices for making both available, that it has come to be a 
 matter of choice in their use ; they are specially effective at the 
 dinner- table. 
 
 DINING-ROOM FLOORS. 
 
 The fact has been mentioned in connection with window- 
 draperies, that all woollen fabrics attract and retain odors, 
 especially those arising from heated fat ; for this reason, as 
 well as upon the score of cleanliness, a movable carpet or 
 rug is better for dining-room use than one nailed to the 
 floor. Even in ordinary grades of carpeting, good colors 
 are now available, and can be so combined that centre and 
 border present an acceptable appearance. The rug can be 
 shaken often, and hung for several hours in the air and sun- 
 light, while the floor of the dining-room is being cleaned. 
 When rugs are used, the margin of floors exposed should 
 always be in good condition. If the wood of the floor is 
 fine-grained, and the planks are neatly fitted together, it may 
 simply be cleaned frequently, dry-scrubbing with sawdust 
 being the best method ; or it can be kept oiled or polished. 
 When the wood is inferior, or imperfectly joined, the irregu- 
 
84 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 larities should be planed off, the nail-holes and cracks filled 
 in with putty, and the floor subsequently painted or stained. 
 Good methods are subjoined for producing all these different 
 effects, together with hints for keeping the floors in good 
 order after they are colored. When there is a smooth, hard 
 floor of natural wood, it can be kept in perfect condition by 
 dusting it daily, either with a soft, flexible brush, or a soft 
 woollen cloth. The cloth may be used in the hand, or fas- 
 tened to a long wooden handle to obviate the necessity for 
 stooping. Linen and cotton fabrics are apt to leave lint 
 upon the boards. In addition to the daily dusting, a weekly 
 dry-scrubbing with sawdust is preferable to washing with 
 water ; even for varnished or painted floors, sawdust scrub- 
 bing is better than the use of water, which destroys the gloss 
 of the surface, and gradually impairs its integrity by more 
 or less absorption of moisture, especially in damp or foggy 
 places. 
 
 SAWDUST SCRUBBING. 
 
 Use clean, dry sawdust ; scatter it by the handful upon 
 that part of the floor farthest from the door, covering three 
 or four square feet of the floor ; then with a stiff new scrub- 
 bing-brush, set with short bristles, scrub the floor with the 
 motion used in scrubbing with water; if any spot is un- 
 usually soiled, scrub a httle harder over it, using extra saw- 
 dust. When the entire floor has been scrubbed, sweep up 
 the sawdust, and bum it, and dust off the floor before 
 putting down the rugs. 
 
 DRY SCRUBBING WITH SAND 
 
 Fine white sea-sand can be used upon unpainted floors, 
 in the same way as the sawdust, but is not so perfect a puri- 
 fier ; the only advantage is that the sand can be washed and 
 dried, and used repeatedly. The same process is to be fol- 
 lowed as with the sawdust. 
 
THE DININQ' MOOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 85 
 
 aow TO prs:fare floors for oiling and staining. 
 When the surface of the floor is uneven, it must be planed 
 down, or nibbed smooth with coarse sandpaper, any pro- 
 jecting nails being first removed. The nail-holes and small 
 cracks must be filled with putty : the large cracks may be 
 filled in with strips of wood. When the floor is quite even, 
 it should be washed clean, and allowed to dry thoroughly ; 
 then dust it, and finish it by any chosen process. The vehi- 
 cle chosen for finishing the floor should be mixed in a rather 
 shallow open basin or bucket admitting the free use of the 
 brushes or rags used in applying the stain or poUsh. There 
 should be two rags or brushes, one for applying the coloring, 
 and the other for rubbing it well into the crevices of the 
 wood : a small rag or brush is required for the comers and 
 along the wainscoting. Begin to work in the comer farthest 
 from the door. Do not have any open" doors or windows if 
 there is any dust flying. Brush or rub with the grain of the 
 wood ; make irregular stops, not straight defined lines across 
 the floor ; when the wood of the floor is well-grained, have 
 the color mixed thin enough for the grain to show through 
 it, and use strength to mb the color well into the grain of 
 the wood. Soft woods will absorb more stain than hard 
 ones ; but a fair proportion is a quart of stain to sixteen 
 square yards of flooring, and half a pint of varnish to pro- 
 tect the stain. After applying one mixture, the brushes must 
 be thoroughly washed in warm water, and dried before using 
 them for another ; one brush should be flat and wide for the 
 open floor, and another small for the comers. 
 
 OILING HARD -'WOOD FLOORS. 
 
 A perfectly smooth hard-wood floor can be kept in good 
 order by daily dusting, and a weekly wiping with a soft cloth 
 wrung out of warm water ; the use of soap is to be avoided, 
 
86 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 because it would neutralize the oily coating of the wood, and 
 so destroy the effect sought for. In ordinary households, 
 twice a year is often enough to oil a good floor. The floor 
 should be of hard wood, made quite smooth, as directed in 
 a preceding paragraph, and thoroughly washed and dried. 
 Use boiled linseed-oil, applying it hot, as directed previously, 
 either with stiff" brushes or soft rags, and rubbing it well into 
 the grain of the wood. When the floor is made of light- 
 colored wood, a little ground burnt umber or burnt sienna 
 may be mixed with the oil for the purpose of staining it, 
 before applying it to the floor. 
 
 POLISHING HARD -WOOD FLOORS. 
 
 To make the polishing mixture, put into a basin or bowl 
 a pound and a half of yellow beeswax, five ounces of resin 
 powdered, and one pint of turpentine. Set the basin in a pan 
 of hot water, and stir the polish over the fire until thoroughly 
 blended. Remember that all these ingredients are highly 
 inflammable, and guard against their taking fire. When the 
 polish is smoothly mixed, cool it ; if, when it is cold, it is 
 thicker than cold cream, stir in a little more turpentine until ' 
 it is of that consistency. See that the hard-wood floor is 
 perfectly clean, dry, and free from dust ; then apply the 
 polish to it with a soft woollen cloth, rubbing it well into 
 the grain of the wood ; after the polish is applied to the floor, 
 rub it very hard with a polishing-brush, which can be found 
 at the house-furnishing shops. In Europe the final polish, 
 after using the brush thoroughly, is given with a piece of soft 
 green baize. Hard-wood floors require polishing two or 
 three times a week. 
 
 STAINING WOODEN FLOORS. 
 
 The floor must first be carefully prepared according to the 
 directions given earlier in this chapter. The stain can be so 
 
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. 87 
 
 mixed as to imitate any ordinary wood, the coloring matter 
 being sold at the paint and oil shops. A good brown stain 
 can be made from burnt umber and sienna, the prevailing 
 tint being made to match the tone of the room, and enough 
 coloring-matter being used to properly darken the wood. 
 Mix the cojior with one pint of turpentine and one quart of 
 raw linSeed-oil, and apply it as already directed. The stain 
 should be liquid enough to run readily ; the addition of some 
 special dryer will hasten the completion of the process. If 
 a stained floor is sized and varnished, it will keep its color 
 longer than if simply stained. Parts of the floor most used 
 can be re-stained without going over the entire surface. A 
 little raw linseed-oil rubbed into the worn spots renews their 
 brightness. The floor can be dusted frequently, and washed 
 about once a week with a soft cloth wet in warm water. 
 
 SIZING STAINED FLOORS. 
 
 After the stain is 'quite dry on the floor, put a pound of 
 size in a basin with a pint of cold water, and melt it by gen- 
 tle heat ; apply it with a flat brush ; if the size froths whili" 
 it is being put upon the floor, dilute it with a little warm 
 water ; let the size dry entirely before applying the varnish. 
 
 VARNISHING STAINED FLOORS. 
 
 Use the best varnish ; apply it evenly and liberally, with a 
 flat brush, and then let the floor become quite dry before 
 walking upon it. About once a week wipe the varnished 
 floor with a soft cloth dipped in warm water. 
 
 BLACK VARNISH FOR WOOD. 
 
 Use enough ivory-black, or prepared liquid black, to color 
 good varnish, and apply a thin coating to the wood. Pre- 
 pared liquid black can be used to stain or ebonize wood 
 without the addition of varnish when the brilliant black sur- 
 
88 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 face is not desired. Blackened wood is cleaned by dusting 
 and wiping with a cloth wet in warm water. 
 
 PAINTED FLOORS. 
 
 For the brilliant yellow color of painted floors, use three 
 pounds of yellow ochre, powdered, to three quarts of soft 
 water, and three ounces of common glue. Dissolve the glue 
 in the water by gentle heat ; then take the liquid from the 
 fire, stir in the paint, and apply it at once to a clean dry 
 floor, using a large flat brush. When the paint is dry, put 
 on a thin coat of boiled linseed-oil, and let the floor dry be- 
 fore walking upon it. When a light lemon-color is desired, 
 use white glue, and two pounds of white lead powdered in 
 place of two of the three pounds of ochre. Paint the floor 
 on a clear, bright day. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. 
 
 THE extension-table has already been referred to as 
 desirable, because its size can be suited to the num- 
 ber of guests. Usually this sort of table is comparatively 
 long and narrow, and does not admit of as acceptable deco- 
 ration as the round or square table. Then, too, at a long 
 table the guests are less favorably placed than at either of 
 the others. A perfectly appointed square table is pictured 
 in the frontispiece, reproduced from the dining-room of a 
 Euclid-avenue house in Cleveland. The first glance will 
 show its admirable arrangement. The space included in 
 the area of the apartment and the table permits the placing 
 of six, eight, or ten guests, the ideal numbers for enjoyable 
 dinners, the less number giving variety enough to obviate 
 sameness, and the greater not being too large for perfect 
 sociability. The breadth of the table permits the distin- 
 guished guests to sit side by side with the host and hostess, 
 and affords room for effective placing of the necessary 
 table appointments, specified in detail a few pages farther 
 on. Delicate napery, flowers enough to add color to the 
 glitter of silver and the sheen of glass, dainty receptacles for 
 salt and pepper, and light candelabra make up a perfectly 
 enticing picture : such surroundings woiild tempt an ancho- 
 rite to feast. 
 
 This table is laid for the American form of service ; the 
 
 89 
 
90 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 various dishes composing the dinner being placed upon the 
 table in their proper succession, as will be hereafter indi- 
 cated. 
 
 TABLECLOTHS. 
 
 In choosing ' table-linen, it should be remembered that 
 heavy material wears longer than the lighter fabrics, and 
 presents in the draping much more effective hnes ; it does 
 not rumple or crease so readily as sheer material ; it needs 
 but little starch when it is done up, and is therefore more 
 pleasant for the user. After a certain point, the price of 
 heavy fabrics is not greater than that of fine goods ; but if 
 it were, the difference would be warranted to an economical 
 buyer by the relative results. When from personal prefer- 
 ence a very fine, light kind of napery is used, there should 
 be a thick under-cloth : indeed, the under- cloth is always 
 desirable for the protection of the table, as well as for the 
 improvement in the appearance of the cloth ; heavy canton 
 flannel makes the best under-cloths. The tablecloth proper 
 ■ should be of wash- material. If the table is large, the cloth 
 may be made in several sections, for convenience in chan- 
 ging it during the dinner, and in washing it. A very effective 
 and inexpensive cloth may be made in this way : Make an 
 openwork centre-piece of any pretty appliqu6 or insertion 
 over some faint shade of wash-satine, following the shape 
 of the table ; outside the centre-piece, and reaching from 
 its edges to a point about a quarter of a yard below the 
 edge of the table, have a section of the tablecloth proper ; 
 then a wide insertion, another piece of the cloth, and an 
 edge of lace. The border of the cloth upon the laid table 
 in the engraving will give an idea of this arrangement. 
 
 The use of lace upon table-linen was of early Italian 
 origin, and was introduced into England before Shakspeare's 
 time ; so that we are only reviving a pretty fashion in elabo- 
 rating our table-service. 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 9 1 
 
 When the efifect of brighter color is desired, a strip of 
 plush, velvet, or satin, edged with lace, may be laid the en- 
 tire length of the table in the centre, over the linen doth. 
 When it is desirable to increase the light in the dining-room, 
 strips of mirror-glass, with border-glasses for flowers, are 
 used ; or their edges are concealed by a thick line of cut 
 flowers. A pretty effect is produced by using large crystal 
 bowls filled with cracked ice and ferns, or blocks of ice bed- 
 ded in moss and ferns ; these blocks of ice may be made to 
 hold shell-fish, prawns, crayfish, or dishes of mayonnaise, 
 aspic, melons, or iced puddings. Some provision should be 
 made for the dripping of the ice so that the cloth may not 
 be spoiled. 
 
 When embroidery is desired, the outline of the woven 
 design of the cloth can be reproduced with gold or silver 
 thread or gold-colored embroidery-silk : these effects are 
 Oriental. Clusters of flowers and fruit in natural colors are 
 embroidered upon heavy momie-cloth or huckabuck, and 
 the cloths are bordered with deep knotted fringe ; some of 
 the South Kensington designs for this kind of work are 
 lovely. These cloths, with napkins to match, are suitable for 
 noon breakfasts, luncheons, and high teas. A beautiful de- 
 sign is that of strawberry leaves and fruit, of natural size 
 and color, embroidered with silk floss upon heavy all-linen 
 momie-cloth. Colored table-linen of good quality is always 
 expensive, and the fact that very few colors retain their 
 freshness after repeated washings makes it comparatively 
 undesirable. Fruit-napkins are not too expensive to permit 
 being put aside when they begin to fade. White linen is 
 always in good taste, and color can be given by the use of 
 fancy china, glass, and flowers ; besides, white linen can 
 always be fresh, an important consideration because so 
 much of the enjoyment of the repast depends upon this. 
 If the first glance at the table shows a spotless cloth and 
 
92 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 shining glass and silver, we involuntarily anticipate a good 
 dinner. In households where it is necessary to economize, 
 it would be better to buy plenty of less expensive linen, and 
 spend extra time in doing it up, than to have a scant supply 
 of fine material. Untidy table-Unen is as intolerable as it 
 is inexcusable : until the water-courses run dry, and there is 
 no more sunshine and fresh air, there will be no good' 
 excuse for soiled tablecloths and napkins. Better a bare 
 wooden table perfectly clean, than a creased and spotted 
 cloth ; and we might take a lesson in neatness from the 
 Celestials, and substitute their paper napkins, which are 
 used once and then burned, rather than omit to supply fresh 
 ones at least once a day. This is a point too often neglected 
 in well-to-do households. 
 
 TABLB-NAFKINS. 
 
 When there is an abundance of table-linen, different- 
 sized napkins are used at the various meals. Dinner-nap- 
 kins are the largest, and in quality should be heavy enough 
 to obviate the necessity for using starch ; of this the least 
 quantity should be employed in doing up table-linen which 
 will insure smoothness after ironing. At some very English 
 dinners, the napkins are changed when the Roman punch 
 comes on, a small, rather fine one being placed before each 
 guest with the punch ; with the game, comes another large 
 one ; and with the dessert, a soft finer fabric of medium size. 
 At ordinary dinners, the change of napkins is made when 
 the dessert is served ; when the special dessert-napkin is 
 used, it should be a little smaller and finer than the dinner- 
 napkin, which is removed with the second course. The 
 fruit-napkin is laid upon the finger-bowl or on the plate 
 which contains it, a small fancy napkin, or doily, being 
 directly under the bowl ; when the finger-bowl is lifted from 
 the dessert-plate, the doily is placed under it on the table- 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 93 
 
 cloth, a little to the left of the dessert-plate. These doilies 
 admit of many fanciful embroideries, outlines, and sketches 
 made with a fine pen and indelible ink. 
 
 For formal breakfasts, large dinner-napkins and finger- 
 bowls are used ; for standing breakfasts, the usual breakfast- 
 napkins, but no finger-bowls. Ordinary breakfast-napkins 
 are smaller than those used for dinner : they may be quite 
 plain, or bear the etched or embroidered initial or mono- 
 gram of the hostess. For elaborate late breakfasts, the nap- 
 kin may be richly embroidered to match the tablecloth. 
 
 Luncheon-napkins are intermediate in size between those 
 used for breakfast and dinner : otherwise they resemble 
 breakfast-napkins. 
 
 For the various teas and kettle-drums, small fancy nap- 
 kins are used. Embroidery, etching, and fringes are quite 
 in good taste. The tray-cloths should match the napkins. 
 
 Japanese paper napkins may be used for out-door refresh- 
 ments where there would be danger of losing or spoiling 
 good linen ; but they are never so acceptable. 
 
 All napkins should be simply folded at private tables, one 
 of the comers being lifted to cover the dinner bread ; but 
 care should be taken not to conceal the bread, lest the 
 guest, taking up the napkin inadvertently, should throw 
 the bread upon the floor. When the dinner is in progress, 
 the napkin lies upon the knees, or is used with one hand ; 
 after the napkin has been used, it is to be laid upon the 
 table loosely, unless at the family table one is expected to 
 place it in a napkin-ring. 
 
 The use of the napkin by table-attendants calls for a few 
 words. A perfectly clean large napkin should be carried 
 upon the left arm ; and in passing dishes the attendant 
 should cover the hand holding the dish with the napkin in 
 such a way as to conceal the hand. When white gloves 
 are worn by the attendants, the napkin is ready in case of 
 
94 PRACTICAL AMERICA N COOKERY. 
 
 accident. In pouring iced wines, a special napkin is re- 
 quired for each bottle ; in pouring the other wines, unless 
 the attendant's hand is gloved, it should be entirely con- 
 cealed by the napkin. 
 
 There should always be an extra supply of clean napkins 
 upon the side-table, to replace one when needed at the table, 
 or to use in case of accident. 
 
 If a guest should drop a napkin while at table, no effort 
 should be made to recover it until a sign can be made to 
 the attendant to restore it. If it falls under the table, no 
 attempt should be made to reach it, lest one's neighbor at 
 table be inconvenienced. At the dessert, the dessert or fruit 
 napkin is used, if they are placed, and the large white napkin 
 is employed only to dry the tips of the fingers after they have 
 been dipped in the finger-bowls ; otherwise the large napkin 
 continues in use to the end of the dinner. 
 
 WASHING TABLE-LINEN. 
 
 A few words may be in place concerning the washing of 
 table-linen. When it falls with the work of the table-girls, 
 there is often trouble in the kitchen and laundry, especially 
 about the boiling and the use of the tubs, when there is a 
 large family to be cooked and washed for. The table-linen 
 need not be boiled often ; and its washing can be greatly 
 facilitated by soaking it for a hour or longer, before the first 
 washing, in lukewarm water in which powdered borax has 
 been dissolved, using half a cupful of powdered borax to a 
 large tubful of water ; then wash the linen with very little 
 good hard soap, rinse it in plenty of water till the water looks 
 clear, and hang it out to dry at once. Table-linen requires 
 very little starch, and not any when it is heavy. 
 
 The ordinary stains upon table-linen yield to warm soapy 
 water. Salt should be throwTi upon claret-stains directly 
 they are made, and they should be washed out in clear water 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 95 
 
 when the meal is over. Iron-rust can generally be extracted 
 by using lemon and salt, and then rinsing the cloth. Fruit- 
 stains can be effaced by using a tablespoonful of chloride of 
 lime and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar in a quart 
 of cold water ; as soon as the stain is washed out, rinse the 
 linen thoroughly in plenty of clean water. Mildew on linen 
 can be removed by soaking it in the solution of lime and 
 lemon-juice, and then rinsing it frequently ; if the mildew 
 is obstinate, mix enough powdered starch into soft soap to 
 nearly thicken it, add to it some salt and lemon-juice, cover 
 both sides of the cloth with it, and expose it to the sun, let- 
 ting it lie upon the grass, and renewing the paste until the 
 stain disappears. 
 
 Iron table-linen single until quite dry, with a hot iron 
 made smooth by rubbing it upon fine sand and then on a 
 waxed cloth ; when starch is used, a little salt or wax, dis- 
 solved in it, prevents the sticking of the iron. Iron napkins 
 in square folds ; fold tablecloths by the thread, or roll them 
 upon a round stick, as long as the cloth is wide, as soon as 
 they are ironed. 
 
 SILVER AND CUTLERY. 
 
 The use of silver, or silver-plated ware, is so general that 
 most housekeepers have their favorite methods of cleaning 
 and preserving it from defacement ; but a few points may be 
 useful to the inexperienced. Careful housewives may take a 
 hint from dealers, and keep their silver, when, it is not in use, 
 wrapped in soft tissue-paper, and closed from the air in its 
 original cases, or in paper boxes ; this will largely obviate the 
 necessity for the frequent cleaning which injures plated ware 
 quite as much as use. 
 
 The powders generally sold for polishing silver are com- 
 posed of minute organizations of silicious nature, which pro- 
 duce a polish by covering the surface of the metal with 
 innumerable" imperceptible scratches, thus destroying some 
 
96 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of the silver. If powder is considered necessary for cleaning 
 silver, it should be almost impalpable, so fine as to pass 
 through delicate muslin, like precipitated chalk or jeweller's 
 rouge. Add three ounces of the chalk, and two ounces of 
 liquid ammonia, to one quart of soft water, and, after thor- 
 oughly shaking these ingredients together, wet a soft cloth 
 with the mixture, rub it over the silver, and then polish it 
 with a piece of soft chamois. If silver is habitually washed 
 with hot water in which soap and a very little washing-soda 
 is dissolved, it will not often require any other cleaning ; the 
 silver should be wiped dry with a soft cloth, and then gently 
 rubbed and polished with clean chamois-skin. 
 
 When the chamois is soiled, it ca,n be washed as follows : 
 Dissolve in warm water enough soap to make a thick lather ; 
 in this wash the chamois, rubbing it between the hands or 
 on a wash-board ; put more soap upon stained parts, and 
 continue the rubbing until the chamois is clean ; then rinse 
 it through two or three waters, lukewarm, squeeze out the 
 vvater, and hang it upon a clothes-line, in the sun, without 
 wringing it; as it dries, take it down, and shake it with a 
 sharp, snapping noise, then pull it straight out, and again 
 hang it up ; repeat the shaking and pulling until the skin is 
 quite dry and soft. 
 
 Chamois-skin which is used for filtering should be washed 
 carefully as follows : Make a very weak solution of washing- 
 soda, borax, or any alkali, with warm water ; wash the cha- 
 mois in it without soap, and then rinse it through several 
 cold waters ; every time the chamois is used, wash it in this 
 way, and dry and stretch it as directed above. 
 
 The use of steel knives as part of the dinner-equipage 
 is regaining favor in this country. For a long time silver- 
 plated blades maintained the supremacy ; but now the sharp 
 steel' blade, set in an ivory or fancy wood handle, is found 
 upon the best-laid tables. For the white ivory and bone 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 97 
 
 handles, the best polishing-agent is finely powdered chalk. 
 Mother-of-pearl is brightened by washing it in salted water, 
 with subsequent hard rubbing with dry chamois-skin ; fruit- 
 stains on the handles can be carefully scraped off, and the 
 places polished. The steel blades of table-knives can be 
 cleaned and sharpened at the same time by rubbing them 
 carefully upon a board covered with emery-cloth, or by using 
 emery-powder as bath-brick is used. The latter is the agent 
 most generally known for cleaning steel knife-blades. It 
 should be finely powdered and sifted to insure uniformity, 
 and then applied either with a cloth or a cork, dipped in 
 cold water, or with a piece of raw potato ; before the knife 
 is scoured, it should be washed clean, and then after scour- 
 ing the blade can be wiped free from dust on a soft, clean 
 cloth. 
 
 Of the use of the knife at table, there can be but little 
 diversity of opinion among people of refinement in this 
 country. The fork is used whenever it is possible to sepa- 
 rate food with it, the knife being called into use only when 
 it is required for cutting, but never to convey food to the 
 mouth. As a matter of convenience, the knife-blade does 
 not contain food to be lifted from the plate to the mouth as 
 well as the three- or four-pronged fork : its use was fostered 
 by the old-fashioned two-pronged steel fork, which is not 
 often seen now. The fork is held in the left hand when it is 
 used with the knife for cutting ; otherwise it is held in the 
 right. Apart from the general disuse of the knife in eating, 
 its approach to the mouth is really a source of discomfort 
 to a nervous or sensitive person ; if only for that reason, the 
 practice of using it ought to be abandoned. When the knife 
 is not in actual use, it should be laid upon the upper right- 
 hand side of the plate. When the fbrk is put down momen- 
 tarily, it may be laid across the plate from either the right 
 or the left, or crossed upon the knife. When both have been 
 
qS practical AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 used finally, they should be laid diagonally across the plate, 
 with both handles toward the right hand : this is understood 
 by well-trained waiters fo be the signal for removing them, 
 together with the plate. The question sometimes arises, of 
 the proper disposition to make of them in case the plate is 
 passed to -the end of the table for a second supply of meat. 
 When the dinner is served in several courses, it is not cus- 
 tomary to ask for the second quantity, because the appetite 
 is satisfied by the variety served ; but if from preference 
 more is wanted, or at plain dinners, where only one or two 
 meats appear, the plate is to be passed, the knife and fork 
 may be laid upon the cloth if they are not in a condition to 
 soil it, or both may be held in the right hand over the cloth. 
 When the small plate for bread and butter is employed, as 
 indicated in the description of the laying of the table, the 
 knife and fork may be placed upon that until the large plate 
 is returned. When the meal is served in several courses, 
 knives and forks are either laid with the service of each 
 course, or as many as will be required are placed when the 
 cover is first laid, — with the exception of the small two- 
 pronged silver or nickel fork for raw oysters and clams, which 
 is laid upon the plate containing them ; and the silver fruit 
 knife and fork, which are placed upon the dessert-plate, 
 beside the finger-bowl, and then laid upon the table by the 
 guest. As has already been said, when there is not an abun- 
 dance of silver, arrangements should be made near the 
 dining-room for washing it quickly in hot water containing 
 a very little washing-soda, for the purpose of f emoVirig the 
 taste and odor of food. 
 
 Fine steel knives should never be exposed to intense heat ; 
 because it destroys their temper, and thus impairs their cut- 
 ting qualities. Good carving-knives should not be used for 
 cutting bread, or in the kitchen : they should be cleaned so 
 caiefuUy as not to turn their edges, and always kept sharp 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 99 
 
 by the use of a fine whetstone ; a carving-steel more often 
 injures than aids a carving-knife unless the person sharp- 
 ening the knife has watched a butcher using a steel. A 
 medium-size French cook-knife, of Sabatier's manufacture, 
 makes an excellent carver, because the blade is thin and 
 flexible, and made of good steel. There should always be 
 in the kitchen good knives for cutting bread, meat, and 
 vegetables ; and a special knife for using about the stove. 
 The best knife for this purpose is a medium-size artist's 
 palette-knife of steel, with a wooden handle j the blade is 
 flexible and broad, admirably adapted for turning small 
 cakes, potatoes, and omelettes, and wholly unlikely to bf 
 injured by the heat because it has no cutting edge. 
 
 CHINA AND GLASS. 
 
 When there need be no limit but taste and fancy in the 
 furnishing of a table, beautiful effects can be produced with 
 china and glass. When it is necessary to economize, only 
 plain white china, and glass free from any set ornamentation, 
 should be bought ; because it is far easier and cheaper to 
 replace plain ware if any is broken. Generally both deco' 
 rated china and ornamental glass are sold in sets, and deal- 
 ers are unwilling to supply any single piece ; besides, the 
 plain ware is less expensive originally than that profusely 
 ornamented, and it combines well with odd bits of colored 
 china and glass and bright flowers, and is always in good 
 taste. Cut glass is always expensive, and easily broken. If 
 exposed to sudden changes in temperature, it will crack by 
 the force of contraction or expansion ; for instance, if fragile 
 glass is put into hot water in frosty weather, it will often 
 break. Glass should for this reason always be washed in 
 tepid or cool water, using the hand to remove spots ; it 
 may then be set in a rack to dry, and afterwards be polished 
 with clean, soft chamois, or cloth free from lint. The deep 
 
lOO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 indentations in fine cut glass can be polished by using a soft 
 brush dipped in a little powdered chalk or whiting. 
 
 Some of the finer kinds of glass-ware are annealed, or 
 seasoned to bear heat, in the process of manufacture, and 
 are therefore less likely to break than the cheaper sorts 
 which have not undergone this operation. A somewhat 
 simUar process may be followed, which results in increasing 
 the durability of the glass and china submitted to it. Put 
 the articles which require to be seasoned in a large pan full 
 of cold water j place the pan over a gentle fire, and slowly 
 heat the water until it begins to boil ; then remove the pan 
 to the coldest part of the stove, and let the heat decrease 
 gradually until the water is quite cold. The articles thus 
 tempered can then be wiped and made ready for use. After 
 this first heating process, neither china nor crockery should 
 be allowed to become very hot, either in using it at table 
 or in washing it, because its glaze will be gradually seamed 
 with cracks. Once this enamel is cracked, both water and 
 grease will penetrate the china, and it will even gradually 
 absorb flavors from food : the cracking of the glaze also 
 renders the china more liable to break. If in washing glass 
 and china a wooden bowl or tub is used, there is compara- 
 tively little of the danger of chipping or breaking it which 
 attends the use of a metal utensil. 
 
 When decorated china is selected, nice discrimination is 
 required. Unless a bizarre effect is sought, the pattern 
 should show unity and delicacy i all grotesque ornamenta- 
 tion should be avoided, as also should glaring contrasts of 
 color and a profusion of gilding. Gilded china always 
 wears unequally ; when not in actual use, it should be kept 
 in a dry, dark closet, wrapped in soft paper; dampness 
 tarnishes the gilt, and rubbing or scratching obliterates it. 
 When gilt china is very much tarnished, the outer film may 
 be removed by rubbing it very lightly and evenly with a 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 10 1 
 
 piece of soft chamois dipped in jeweller's rouge, or in finely 
 powdered chalk which has been sifted through thin silk. 
 When gilt china is washed, the water should be lukewarm, 
 and contain a little borax or soda : the china should be well 
 drained, and then very lightly wiped with a soft cloth. All 
 richly decorated fine china requires the same careful treat- 
 ment. The finest Oriental china is of delicate even colors, 
 without a line of decoration or a shade of contrast, but the 
 effect is indescribably beautiful. In modern china, the most 
 beautiful effects are in soft flower and sea-shell tints ; except 
 in a few sorts, such as Royal Worcester, where superb con- 
 trasts of color and gilt are made. For high teas and kettle- 
 drums, the grotesque harlequin sets are sometimes used. 
 After all, the choice of china is entirely a matter of individual 
 taste. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 
 
 THE relative convenience of different-shaped tables has 
 been referred to. Decidedly, the square and round 
 tables are the most desirable ; because, placed in a circle or 
 nearly facing the host, no guest is given precedence except 
 those who occupy the seats of honor at the right hand of 
 the host and hostess respectively. If the shape of the room 
 will not admit of the use of a round or square table, a good 
 effect may be produced by placing the host and hostess at 
 opposite sides of the long extension-table, facing each other : 
 this position draws the entire company relatively nearer their 
 entertainers, and those in whose honor the feast is given, 
 and so increases both interest and enjoyment. 
 
 It has become the custom, in laying a table, to avoid 
 uniformity of decoration in all tnatters except the massing 
 of a few choice varieties of flowers, — unless a " pink din- 
 ner," or some such entertainment, is being given, when the 
 purpose is to emphasize some special color ; then the china, 
 glass, flowers, lamp or candle shades, and even the ladies' 
 costumes, take on the prevailing tone of color. Details of 
 these effects are given elsewhere in the book. Of course the 
 laying of all the covers must be uniform ; and it is agreed 
 that the service of a dinner is facilitated, and the general 
 effect heightened, when more than one set of silver and 
 cutlery is laid at first. There are so many dainty forms of 
 
LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 103 
 
 such table-service, that a well-laid cover becomes a beautiful 
 picture, especially when the table is large enough to admit 
 of the proper placing of the various aids to the guests' com- 
 fort and convenience. Whatever form of service is chosen 
 for the dinner, the articles used in good houses, in laying 
 each cover, consist of the napkin, a dinner roll or a thick, 
 small cut of fresh bread, the necessary cutlery and silver, 
 the water-tumbler, and glasses for the different wines when 
 wine is served, and, at convenient intervals, receptacles for 
 the condiments, and iced water or ice. Individual salt- 
 cellars are in vogue, but several larger silver or cut-glass 
 ones may be placed upon the table, as well as some unique 
 and pretty pepper-casters of metal or china. The salad-oil 
 and vinegar are in double cruet-stands upon the table, or 
 on the sideboard ready to be placed upon the table when 
 the salad is served. The table- sauces are put on the side- 
 board until required, being left in their original bottles. 
 The large table-caster is a thing of the past, and is banished 
 even From the sideboard unless it is really an ornamental 
 piece. Individual water-bottles, with tumblers to cover 
 them, are much favored, because of their convenience to 
 this water-drinking nation. Dishes of broken ice are per- 
 missible at small dinners. The water-bottles may be filled 
 with ice and frozen without much trouble, according to 
 directions given later on. Some caterers make a specialty 
 of supplying these frozen carafes. The number of wine- 
 glasses is, of course, regulated by the variety of wines to be 
 served : this point will be amplified later. 
 
 Extra knives, forks, and spoons are upon the sideboard, 
 ready to be placed by the attendants, between the courses : 
 the oyster-fork is upon the plate with the shellfish, or is laid 
 when they are served. When butter is served, as it often is 
 in this country, a small plate and a special knife are placed 
 for it. A nice idea for family dinners, or luncheons, is to 
 
104 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 use a small plate, about the size of a saucer, upon which 
 the butter can be placed, together with the bread, and the 
 salt when large salt-cellars are used. The teaspoons are 
 upon the sideboard, to be placed upon the table when re- 
 quired. Small spoons are needed when coffee is served in 
 the little cups used after dinner for black coffee, or cafe noir. 
 When there is not an abundance of silver, there should be, 
 in a room adjoining the dining-room, all the conveniences 
 for quickly washing and drying it ; i.e., hot water, soap, and 
 soft towels ; a small piece of washing-soda dissolved in the 
 hot water will thoroughly cleanse the silver from any odor 
 or taste of food. 
 
 Uniform color has been indicated for the general table 
 equipage ; but if the table is large enough to admit of more 
 than one group of flowers, or colored china, they should 
 differ far enough to produce a contrast ; and a change, how- 
 ever slight, should be made at every repast. At all seasons, 
 flowers make a charming variation in the appearance of even 
 the most simply laid table ; and variety at the table is a great 
 charm, quite as necessary to the enjoyment of the repast as 
 is a good choice of dishes. Especially in the spring and 
 early summer, the appetite is so capricious that it can be 
 affected by such trifles of service as light and color. The 
 perfect hostess will not despise even trifles, where the enjoy- 
 ment of her guests is concerned. 
 
 The lighting of a dinner-table is of importance. The 
 pleasantest light falls from candles or lamps, which should 
 be so placed as not to incommode the diners. Lamps are 
 sometimes suspended over the table, as are gas-fixtures. Side 
 lights are apt to cross the light so that it is unpleasant : if they 
 are used, they should be shaded. When it is desirable to 
 give a prevailing tone of color, the lights and their globes or 
 shades will be found most effective auxiliaries : details of these 
 possibilities are given in the chapter on dining-room fittings. 
 
LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. I05 
 
 The frontispiece represents the general effect of a well-laid 
 table, and the detail of a cover is given on p. 106 : if the direc- 
 tions are carefully studied, there will be no difficulty in carry- 
 ing them out with the aid of the picture. We have in these 
 two pictures the table laid for the service of a dinner in the 
 American style, which admits of great beauty of ornamenta- 
 tion, and does not involve those tiresome and troublesome 
 changes of the entire table-equipage according to the formal 
 English method, where the cloth is changed with each course. 
 
 The table-cloth for all dinners should be white, and with- 
 out perceptible folds or creases. It is not always easy to 
 accomplish this triumph of laundry-work in small establish- 
 ments ; but it is possible if the cloth is carefully ironed, and 
 rolled at once upon a long, round piece of wood, like a cur- 
 tain-roller. As has been already said, the pretty fashion pre- 
 vails of laying a strip of bright-colored plush or satin down 
 the middle of the table, with a vine of smilax or ivy along 
 the edges ; as a variation, a strip of wide, very open lace, of 
 a definite pattern, laid over a piece of satin, silk, or cambric, 
 is sometimes employed. In arranging the table decorations 
 upon and near this bit of color, due regard to harmony must 
 be observed. The table-napkins should match the pattern 
 of the cloth, and be large and square : they should be folded, 
 and so placed that the guest will not be exposed to any 
 awkwardness in using them : for instance, if a roll or piece 
 of bread is hidden in one, it may be thrown upon the floor 
 by a careless movement ; the dinner bread is best placed at 
 the front or side of the plate, laid upon the napkin, but not 
 concealed by it. 
 
 After the ornamental centre of the table has been planned 
 (care being taken that i^ shall not be high enough to obstruct 
 the view of the entire table), and the various dishes placed 
 for condiments, relishes, and such small dishes as the chosen 
 service permits, — the flowers being kept fresh until just be- 
 
, o > *■' - - 
 
 
 io6 
 
LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. I07 
 
 fore the dinner is served, — each guest's place or cover is 
 laid as follows : upon the left, a soup-spoon and two silver 
 forks, one large ; in the centre, the dinner-plate, upon which 
 the plate of oysters or clams is to be set just before serving 
 the dinner, or, if there is to be no shellfish, the napkin may 
 be put here with the dinner bread; when the shellfish is 
 served, the bread and napkin may be laid just above the 
 spoon and forks, together with the salt-cellar and water-tum- 
 bler, or the small carafe with the tumbler reversed upon it ; 
 at the right of the cover, a steel knife with a pearl or ivory 
 handle, for meats, and a silver dinner-knife of medium size ; 
 sometimes a smaller knife with a silver blade and some fan- 
 ciful handle is placed to be used for cheese, salad, or butter 
 when it is served, as it generally is upon American tables. 
 The disuse of butter at dinner is to be traced to those coun- 
 tries where it is less plentiful than in America, and it is such 
 a useful article of food that it is to be hoped the fashion in 
 question will not generally prevail. When wine is served, 
 the glasses may be symmetrically arranged at the upper 
 right of the cover. When all the dinner-wines are used, it 
 is well to have some of the more fragile glasses remain upon 
 the sideboard until they are needed, placing at first upon the 
 table a hock-glass for the white wine, a small wine-glass for 
 the sherry, and claret and champagne glasses ; this is the 
 number of glasses placed in the picture, in addition to a 
 goblet for iced water. The glasses should be about four 
 inches from the edge of the table. The glasses for port, 
 Madeira, Burgundy, and the liqueurs should be upon the side- 
 board, together with extra glasses of all kinds to replace any 
 accidentally overturned or broken. 
 
 Also, upon the sideboard or table, there should be plenty 
 of fresh napkins, plates, and silver, the finger-bowls and 
 dishes which are to be used during the dessert, the cups and 
 saucers for coffee, sugar, cigars or cigarettes when there are 
 
I08 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOJCERY. 
 
 gentlemen present, and the wines and liqueurs which are not 
 iced. 
 
 Before placing the dessert, crumbs can be best removed 
 by using a large silver knife ; it is better than a brush, which 
 only scatters the crumbs about the cloth and over the floor. 
 In some houses, the old custom still prevails of removing the 
 cloth before the dessert is served, so as to place it upon the 
 poUshed mahogany table : this implies ample attendance. 
 The table must be bright enough to reflect every glint of 
 light which falls on it ; then, in the removal of the cloth, it 
 must be rolled or folded from one end of the table to the 
 other by a servant on either side of the table, and others 
 must be near to assist them by raising and replacing the 
 table-ornaments, otherwise the process is awkward and tedi- 
 ous. At best, it involves much reaching over the shoulders 
 of the guests, unless they are seated far apart. 
 
 After the crumbs have been removed, or the cloth changed, 
 the finger-bowls are put upon the table, and the dessert 
 is served. A small colored or embroidered napkin is laid 
 >n a dessert-plate, usually of decorated china, and the glass 
 bowl is set upon the napkin. Sometimes a small glass con- 
 taining a little perfumed water is set in the bowl : at the end 
 of the dinner this glass is raised to the lips to refresh them, 
 and the fingers are dipped into the bowl. The dinner-nap- 
 kin is used for drying the hands, and is then laid without 
 folding at the side of the plate. Unless at very informal 
 family dinners, fresh napkins are always laid. The embroid- 
 ered napkins under the bowls are to be placed under them 
 on the table-cloth, when the plate is required for the dessert. 
 If the dessert-napkins are colored and of wash material, they 
 are to be used if fruit is served ; otherwise the dinner-nap- 
 kin remains in use. Upon the plate, by the side of the fin- 
 ger-bowl, the dessert silver is laid, a fruit-knife and teaspoon, 
 and a silver fork if the dessert includes any juicy large fruit 
 
LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. 109 
 
 such as pears or pine-apple. The guest lays this silver upon 
 the table, and places the bowl, with the doily under it, within 
 easy reach. If there is a fruit-napkin, it is laid ready for use ; 
 and, unless a fresh white napkin is served, the dinner-napkin 
 remains upon the knees until the end of the dinner : when 
 the white dessert-napkin is laid, the dinner-napkin is to be 
 taken away before the service of the dessert. Other details 
 in regard to the napkin are given where the table-linen is 
 discussed. 
 
 When the frozen carafes or water-bottles are to be pre- 
 pared at home, the following method will be found easy and 
 satisfactory. Unless small carafes for individual use are de- 
 sired, the ordinary glass ones will answer : the use of cut or 
 pressed glass bottles is attended with the danger of breaking 
 during the freezing. Smooth carafes are best, holding about 
 a quart : they are filled with fresh water to the bottom of the 
 neck, and set in a wooden tub containing enough freezing- 
 mixture to reach two-thirds up the sides. The freezing-mix- 
 ture is composed of three parts of pounded ice to one of 
 salt. The carafes are covered first with a clean cloth, and 
 then with a heavy blanket, and allowed to remain undis- 
 turbed until the water is frozen. If they are left over night, 
 as they sometimes are in summer, suiificient drainage must 
 be insured to prevent the entrance of the melted freezing- 
 mixture to the carafes. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 
 
 FLOWERS AT TABLE. 
 
 FLOWERS will probably always hold favor as table 
 decorations, because of their beauty and freshness ; 
 but the use of large and elaborate flower-stands, or high 
 ornamental figures of sweetmeats and confectionery, epergnes, 
 #r plate, should be deprecated. They obstruct the inter- 
 course of the guests, which to be enjoyabl'e must be uncon- 
 strained. In summer, a very effective centre-piece for the 
 table may be formed by wreathing a block of ice with 
 smilax, ivy, or ferns ; of course, care must be taken to in- 
 sure perfect drainage, or a sufficiently large receptacle to 
 hold the water must be placed under the ice, otherwise the 
 tablecloth will be soiled. The size and shape of the table 
 will decide the degree of ornamentation admissible. 
 
 A round table might be arranged somewhat after the 
 following fashion, using only flowers for decoration. In the 
 service a la Russe, the small dessert-dishes and the relishes 
 would be interspersed. A fine cloth being laid, the centre 
 of the table would be filled with either a block of ice 
 wreathed in vines or leaves, or a stand of dwarf foliage- 
 plants, or a circular bed of flowers of some pronounced 
 color, usually of one variety ; next, in the outer circle, con- 
 trasting flowers, or small dessert-dishes and relishes harmo- 
 niously arranged so far as color and form are concerned ; 
 and at the edge of the table, the service of covers. In this 
 
FLOWEfiS, BILLS OF FARE, AiVD WINES. I IT 
 
 plan no calculation is made for placing on the table the dif- 
 ferent dishes composing the dinner; when the service in- 
 volves this, space should be left for the dishes, large enough 
 to allow a margin of the cloth to show between the centre 
 decoration and the dishes served. 
 
 When flowers are not in season, a centre may be made of 
 a china figure supporting an open dish for fruits ; other 
 fruits and nuts may be dispersed in low dishes around the 
 centre-piece, and beyond them the small relishes, varied 
 with a few flowers or even leaves. 
 
 For a long table, when flowers are not abundant, the strip 
 of colored plush or satin is very effective : it should be bor- 
 dered with , ivy, moss, or any trailing vine ; smilax, black- 
 berry-vines, woodbine, and honeysuckle are admirable for this 
 purpose. When only moss or leaves are used, a few bright 
 flowers or berries, placed at intervals, heighten the brilliancy 
 of the effect. One of the loveliest of long-table decorations 
 is a profusely flowering vine of honeysuckle, laid the entire 
 length of the table. Another beautiful centre is an oval 
 mass of fruit and leaves, placed low upon the table, the 
 middle of the mound being slightly elevated. 
 
 An exquisite summer centre-piece is a block of ice, 
 virreathed in ferns, with an outer circle of water-lilies and 
 their leaves and curling stems. But flowers of pronounced 
 odors are sometimes objectionable. Low dishes filled with 
 violets and pansies are most beautiful when arranged on a 
 white cloth. A low epergne, or a china figure supporting 
 a basket, either to be filled with fruit, and set in a broad 
 circle of pansies, is very beautiful : flat dishes containing the 
 sweets may be sunk among the flowers. Nasturtium-vines, 
 with the leaves and flowers, are bright and effective. Of 
 course the queen of all table-flowers is the rose, and the 
 variety is innumerable. In flower-decoration, there should 
 be one predt)rninating cglor. 
 
112 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 In summer each gentleman is supplied with a boiitonniere^ 
 and each lady with a corsage-bouquet. The bouquets are 
 tied with ribbons of contrasting colors, and a large pin is 
 stuck into the cloth for the purpose of fastening the flowers 
 to the dress. 
 
 At elaborate entertainments, when it is desired to present 
 the ladies with some souvenir, bouquet clasp-pins may be 
 substituted for the ordinary large pin, or the large pin may 
 be rnade of gold or silver. Very pretty silver pins can be 
 bought for from fifty cents to one dollar, and more fanciful 
 ones and bouquet-pins for from one dollar upwards, accord- 
 ing to their style of ornamentation. 
 
 MENUS, OR BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 In the choice of ;«i?«»-cards, much taste may be dis- 
 played. Extreme ornamentation should be avoided, and 
 the names of the dishes written legibly with ink, either in 
 the centre of the ornamentation, when space is left there, 
 or upon the plain side of the card. When small cards are ' 
 used, one should be laid at each place : this is desirable 
 when the number of guests is large, for then on the reverse 
 of the card can be written the name of the guest who is 
 to occupy the seat. When large menu-caids are used, one 
 answers for four or five guests. The large cards are more 
 elaborate, and are often framed flat, or set on low orna- 
 mental easels. The names of the different wines are to be 
 placed opposite the dishes with which they are to be served. 
 The cook and head waiter should both have a copy of the 
 bill of fare, so that they may know when to serve the various 
 dishes composing the dinner. 
 
 The ability to compose a bill of fare judiciously implies 
 taste and discrimination. The fact should always be re- 
 membered, that a heavy soup will so far cloy the appetite 
 *s to render one indifferent to the rest of the dinner, while 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. II3 
 
 a clear soup refreshes and prepares one for the enjoyment 
 of the succeeding solids. The fish and entrees should not 
 be substantial enough to satisfy hunger entirely: the rel- 
 ishes will then stimulate the appetite for the heavier dishes. 
 The service of Roman punch before the roast refreshes 
 the palate, and prepares the more perfect enjoyment of 
 the succeeding dishes : it is as necessary to the service 
 of a good dinner as cheese is with the plain salad. When 
 olives are on the table, they go w6ll with entrees of game ; 
 French chestnuts are excellent with poultry ; and almonds, 
 blanched and roasted with salt, are enjoyable with Madeira 
 or sherry before the sweet entremets. Only a plain vegetable 
 salad should accompany the roast or game, and a bit of any 
 old cheese may be passed with the salad. Cheese straws or 
 cheese crusts may be served with the salad. Although the 
 cheese belongs with the salad, it enters into some delicate 
 dishes, such as fondus and souffles, which may come to the 
 table either after the oysters or soup, as relishes, or before 
 the large sweets at dessert, previous to the service of the 
 nuts and fruit. Then comes the dessert, placed as already 
 indicated. If the dinner is small, it is perfectly permissible 
 for the hostess to make the coffee at the table, or it may be 
 served in the drawing-room later. 
 
 Even with the best-chosen menu, the success of a dinner 
 depends on the skill of the cook. A good cook appreciates 
 the value of sauces, and will give much care to their prepa- 
 ration, and, above all, will endeavor to preserve the natural 
 flavors of the different dishes. All mingling of flavors is 
 objectionable, except in sauces and salads. 
 
 The details of the bill of fare are as follows : — 
 
 The Shellfish {Huitres) includes small raw oysters, and 
 
 Little Neck or hard-shell dams, on the half-shell ; at the same 
 
 time, brown bread cut very thin and buttered, and cut lemons, 
 
 salt, cayenne, and sharp table-sauces are placed upon the table. 
 
114 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The Soup {Potage) is varied according to the character of 
 the dinner. If it is choice, no matter how small it is, there 
 are always two soups ; one a perfectly clear soup, or con- 
 somme, and the other a rich, thick one, such as a bisque or 
 cream. A thick cut of bread, or a roll with crisp crust, is 
 placed upon the napkin when the cover is laid, to be used 
 after the shellfish. 
 
 The Fish {Poisson) may be of any large kind, boiled and 
 served with a good sauce and plain boiled potatoes. If the 
 dinner is large or elaborate, there should be two kinds of 
 fish, one boiled, and the other baked and served with a gar- 
 nish, or small fish with a sauce and garnish, and some special 
 dish of potatoes, such as Parisienne or Hollandaise. If 
 shellfish is used here, the dish should be large and hot. 
 
 The Relishes {Hors-d'teuvre), which are placed upon the 
 table in the American dinner and the service a la Russe, 
 include all kinds of table-sauces and catsups, salted almonds, 
 pickles, olives, caviare, vinaigrettes, small cold entrees such 
 as bouchees and pdte-de-foie-gras, pickled fish and small 
 tongues, and individual escalops. 
 
 The Removes (or Releves) consist of boiled, baked, and 
 braised meats, poultry, and large game, large veal, ham, 
 game, and fish pies, and large cold joints, such as tongue 
 and ham, generally served with a garnish of vegetables ; the 
 remove at a small dinner may consist of an elaborately 
 dressed cold fish, if the regular fish service has been omitted. 
 
 The Side-dishes (^Entrees) are the small hot meats gar- 
 nished, such as cutlets, chops breaded or larded, steaks with 
 sauces garnished, small meats and poultry larded, sweet- 
 breads garnished, fricandeaux, fricassees, ragouts, escalopes, 
 all hot ; hot raised pies, p&tes, and rissoles, combination 
 salads of vegetables, salads with mayonnaise, such as chicken 
 and lobster ; in brief, any dish in size less than a joint or a 
 roast. 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. II5 
 
 Roman Punch (Sorbet) . — There are many delicious ices 
 served under the general name of Roman punch, all having 
 a combination of frozen fruit-sherbet 'and some fine liqueur, 
 cordial, wine, or spirit ; served in the midst of the dinner, 
 when the palate needs the sense of refreshment they give, 
 they prepare it for renewed enjoyment, and render it capable 
 of appreciating the intense flavor of the roast and the iou- 
 ijuet of the Burgundy or champagne, that follow them. 
 
 The Roast {Rdti). — For family dinners, the roast may 
 be a joint of any meat preferred ; but for special occasions 
 it should be of venison, larded hare, or some large game- 
 bird. If wild duck is served, there should be more than 
 one, because only the breast is carved ; when canvas-backs 
 are used, half a breast cut in one piece is served to each 
 guest. Smaller birds, either roasted or broiled, may be 
 served in this course. All game should be underdone. A 
 garnish of watercress or celery is used with birds, and always 
 currant-jelly and special sauces with venison and hare. 
 
 Salad {Saiade). — A green salad is the proper accom- 
 paniment of the roast; it may be of watercress, lettuce, 
 celery, chiccory, escarole, burnet, nasturtium (leaves, fruit, 
 and flowers), com-salad, dandelion, tarragon, fennel, mint, 
 young onions, and any of the green sweet herbs : the five 
 first-named varieties are the most generally used. Some- 
 times tomatoes and cucumbers are served here ; but they 
 more properly belong, the cucumbers with the fish, and the 
 tomatoes with a mayonnaise among the entrees. The best 
 dressing for a green salad is of oil, vmegar, salt, and pep- 
 per: a salad with mayonnaise belongs among the entrees, 
 as do the salads of cold cooked vegetables. A litde old, 
 rich cheese may be served with the green salad if desired. 
 
 Second-course Side-dishes {Entremets). — After the 
 roast and its accompanying green salad, it is customary to 
 serve hot vegetables dressed with sauces, hot meat, fish, 
 
Il6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 or game pies, croquettes and fritters with sauces, eggs in 
 elaborate form with sauces, large cold side-dishes ; and the 
 second-course sweets such as croquettes, charlottes, cro- 
 quantes, timbales, cold puddings in moulds, hot puddings 
 with sauces, pastries, moulded jellies and creams, meringues, 
 souffles, and macedoines. 
 
 Dessert {De/sert). — The dessert consists of the small 
 cold sweets, such as eclairs, fancy cakes, nougats, confec- 
 tionery, candied fruits, nuts, individual moulded jellies, ices, 
 and creams, glaces and cafe noir. When it is divided in 
 two parts, the dishes called glaces are served first; these 
 include every sweet which can be crystallized, frozen or iced : 
 after them comes the dessert proper, composed of candied 
 and dry preserved fruits, nuts, bonbons, and little fancy cakes, 
 or petit-fours, and the cheese and coffee. 
 
 THE SERVICE OF DISHES. 
 
 After the dinner-table is properly arranged in accordance 
 with any chosen style, the service of the dinner becomes 
 the matter of importance. Unless the various dishes are 
 acceptably presented, the finest cookery loses its value ; and 
 if the attendants do not know how to carry out the details 
 of the service deftly and quietly, the comfort of the entire 
 repast is destroyed. If strange waiters are brought into the 
 house for any special occasion, they should be made per- 
 fectly conversant with all the resources and facilities of the 
 establishment. There should be a clear understanding as to 
 just what is to be done by the servants in the kitchen, and 
 those in the dining-room ; and, if possible, matters should 
 be so planned that the waiters do not have to leave the 
 room. All the dishes, and those parts of the dinner which 
 need not be hot, should be in the dining-room before the 
 meal is served, either upon the dinner-table or upon the side- 
 board or side-table. Then, if the cook or kitchen-maid 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. liy 
 
 brings the hot dishes to the door or into an adjoining-room, 
 there need be no unnecessary delay. 
 
 The oysters or clams on the half-shell are to be kept on 
 the ice until just before the dinner is announced ; they are 
 then to be arranged on appropriate plates, and set at each 
 cover, the oyster-plate being placed on a large dicner-plate, 
 which is to be removed with it when the hot plate is placed 
 for the fish. A bit of lemon is to be put in the centre of 
 the oyster-plate, six half-shells being served on each plate 
 (except in California, where one can consume at least a dozen 
 of the small delicious native bivalves) ; the small oyster-fork 
 is laid either upon the plate, or beside it on the table. After 
 the shellfish are eaten, the guest leaves the fork upon the 
 plate so that it can be removed with it. Plates of brown 
 bread, cut very thin and buttered, are placed upon the table 
 with the shellfish, and removed with them. If this bread is 
 intended for use with the salad, it should be served in .one 
 compartment of a fancy basket or dish ; the other divisions 
 containing biscuit, crackers, old cheese, olives, and small 
 relishes. Butter intended to be used with the bread and 
 salad should be made up in small fancy pats or balls and 
 iced. The basket containing these articles should be re- 
 moved from the table with the salad. 
 
 All plates are removed, and the various dishes passed, at 
 the guest's left : the wine is poured at the right. Hot plates 
 are served with all the dishes except foie-gras, caviare, 
 salads, and the cold sweets. 
 
 Great care should be exercised in preparing the dishes in 
 the kitchen, and in bringing them to the table in a perfectly 
 neat condition. The soup should not fill the tureen so far 
 as to endanger spilling. The dishes for fish should be suited 
 in size and shape to the contents. If the fish is boiled, it 
 should be served unbroken, on a napkin laid in the appro- 
 priate platter, and garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley 
 
Il8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 or slices of lemon, the sauce being served in a sauce-boat : 
 if sauce is served on the dish with the fish, only, enough to 
 cover the centre of the dish should be used, and the fish 
 laid on it ; the rest is served in a sauce-boat. Entrees should 
 be very neatly arranged with the proper garnishes, with sauce 
 enough to surround them, but not to reach to the edge of 
 the dish. Very little gravy, or none at all, should be on the 
 dish with joints, as it is hkely to be spilled in carving ; and 
 the dish should be deep enough to contain all that may flow 
 from the cut meat. 
 
 In the service of English and American dinners, the soup, 
 salad, and large sweets are to be placed before the hostess ; 
 the fish, meats, and game which require carving, before the 
 host. If two dishes of a kind are served at a large dinner, 
 one is to be put before each. The relishes and small sweets 
 are placed in different parts of the table ; and the vegetables 
 are passed by the servants, after the large dishes are served, 
 a spoon and fork being in each dish, so that the guest can 
 easily help himself. When two large dishes are served at 
 once, there is always the possibility that one will be spoiled 
 by waiting until it is required ; and, besides, it is then neces- 
 sary that both hosts should be expert carvers. In the dinner 
 served a la Russe, the carving is all done at the side-table 
 by the servants. Sometimes the dishes are placed on the 
 table a moment, for the apjwobaition of the master or mis- 
 tress of the house, and then taken away to be carved ; but 
 this involves delay. In this form of service, the plates are 
 laid between each course, and the guests help themselves as 
 the waiters pass the dishes after they are carved. 
 
 In treating of the service of dinners, some general refer- 
 ence has been made to the different methods of placing the 
 dishes upon the table : here the full details will be given 
 of the three forms of service in vogue in this country and 
 abroad, — the English and American, and the service a la 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. I I9 
 
 Russe which is much favored by caterers. With the English 
 service, much labor falls upon the hosts in the way of carving 
 and serving, but the effect is hospitable in the extreme. In 
 the dinner a la Russe, every care falls upon the servants, but 
 this necessitates a greater number than any other form of 
 service. The American dinner-service is not very trying to 
 the hosts, especially if dishes are chosen which can easily 
 be dispensed : the effect is homelike, and one well-trained 
 servant can attend eight or ten guests. 
 
 THK ENGLISH DINNER-SERVICE. 
 
 In serving a dinner according to the approved English 
 method, the table must first be laid with a cotton-flannel or 
 baize cloth, so that the heat of the dishes cannot affect its 
 polished mahogany surface ; even when an ordinary wood 
 table is used, this cloth gives a good body to those laid over 
 it; the dessert-cloth of delicately tinted damask is next 
 spread ; and above that, one or more white cloths, according 
 to the number of courses which are to be served, the cloth 
 being removed after each course is served. The covers are 
 then laid for the first course, including the necessary wine- 
 glasses for the wines to be served during the course ; the 
 relishes and condiments for the course are placed; and 
 the flower-decorations, which are generally massive. Several 
 dishes placed upon the table at once constitute a course ; 
 the largest before the host and hostess, to be carved by them 
 and put upon plates passed from their left to the left hand 
 of the guests by the waiters. When there is a large staff of 
 servants, the butler, who is in charge of them, makes the first 
 service, and then relegates it to his assistants, and attends to 
 the wines. The soups, salads, and large sweets are set be- 
 fore the hostess ; the large dishes of fish, meat, and game, 
 which require carving, are placed before the host ; the rel- 
 ishes, vegetables, and small sweets are set upon the table, 
 
I20 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 each with its appropriate course, and passed by the servants 
 after the large dishes are served. When two large dishes are 
 served in the same course, the least difficult is set before the 
 hostess. The chief disadvantage of this form of service is 
 that one of the large dishes is apt to become cold before it 
 is served to the guests ; and, besides, it requires that both 
 host and hostess should be expert carvers. As each course 
 is finished, the servants entirely clear the table, remove the 
 cloth, and then arrange the table afresh for the next course, 
 as already described in the chapter on Laying and Serving 
 the Table. Sometimes in a dinner of only two courses, the 
 same white cloth serves until dessert, and then all the cloths 
 are removed, and the dessert proper, of fruit, nuts, and wine, 
 is placed upon the polished mahogany. 
 
 An English dinner of three courses would be divided 
 somewhat after the following method. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Native Oysters on the Half Shell. 
 Brown bread and butter. 
 
 [ Thick Turtle Soup. Green Turtle Clear Soup. 
 
 Punch and 
 
 ' Turbot with Lobster Sauce. 
 
 Sherry. Boiled Salmon, Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Cucumbers. Boiled Potatoes. 
 Hock ( Lobster Cutlets. Moor Game Pie. 
 
 , and Filets of Wild Duck, Seville Orange Sauce. 
 
 Bordeaux. \ Vol-au- Vent of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Boiled Turkey, Celery Sauce. 
 Burgundy. Saddle of Mutton, Currant Jelly. Boiled Sea-Kale. 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes with White Sauce. 
 Chamfagne. Roast Ptarmigan and Pheasants. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Asparagus with HoUandaise Sauce. 
 Old Fort. Nesselrode and Iced Puddings. 
 
 THIRD COURSE. 
 Dessert Sherry. Fruit Tarts. Noyeau Jelly. Chartreuse of Orange. 
 Ice Cream. Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. Coffee. 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 121 
 THE SERVICE OF DINNER A LA RUSSE. 
 
 This form of service is popular, because the table is made 
 very attractive by the pretty dishes which it permits to be 
 placed there ; and, besides, it entails but little care upon the 
 hosts ; well-trained servants can easily manage all the details, 
 leaving the hosts free to devote themselves to their guests. 
 In laying the table, one white cloth is placed over a cotton- 
 flannel one, and a low centre-piece of plate, crystal, or fine 
 china, filled with flowers, occupies the middle of the table. 
 Bright-colored dishes containing rehshes, olives, small sweets, 
 . biscuit, fruit, nuts, and bonbons, are dispersed about the 
 table ; dressed salads, jellied fish and meats, if small, may 
 be used, but no hot or greasy dishes are permissible ; flowers 
 always form part of the ornamentation, and boutonnieres and 
 corsage-bouquets may be laid beside each cover. As the 
 table is not cleared during the dinner, there is a good 
 opportunity for producing beautiful effects. The effects will 
 largely depend upon the prevailing colors, which should be 
 harmonious, and chosen with some reference to the appear- 
 ance of the dishes which are to be placed upon the table 
 during the progress of the dinner. Many dishes, especially 
 entrees, are very ornamental ; and others may be included 
 in the dessert. 
 
 In planning a dinner & la Russe, the hostess can choose 
 dishes that can be carved without disarranging them before 
 they are sent into the dining-room, or at the side-table by 
 the servants, and then passed without any supervision on her 
 part. Some of the dishes illustrated in the chapter on carving 
 will exemplify this idea ; other suitable ones will be found 
 among the garnished entrees or side-dishes. For more than 
 ten guests, there should be a servant for each side of the 
 table, and the service can be greatly expedited if a third 
 follows the passing of each large dish with its appropriate 
 
122 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 vegetable. All the dishes should contain a fork and spoon 
 for serving them ; and the waiters must either wear white 
 gloves',' or cover the thumb, where it touches the rim of the 
 dish, with a clean napkin. The same care must be exer- 
 cised in laying a plate before a guest. Of course the nap- 
 kin, gloves, and hands must be sg-upulously clean. In this 
 service, a fresh plate containing a knife and fork is laid 
 before each guest as soon as the preceding course is finished : 
 the guest lays the knife and fork upon the tablecloth. The 
 plate of the hostess is changed last at each course. 
 
 THE DINNER SERVICE 
 
 AS SHOWN ON MENU CARDS. 
 
 French Form. English and American Form. 
 
 Huiires. Small Shellfish, uncooked. 
 
 Potage. Soup. 
 
 Poisson. Fish and Large Shellfish, Turtle, and Terrapin. 
 
 Hors-d ' (Euvres. Small Side-dishes, and Relishes, cold. 
 
 Releves. Removes of Boiled and Braised Meats, etc. 
 
 Entrees. Large Side-dishes, hot and cold. 
 
 Ponche h la Romaine. Frozen Punch. 
 
 Roiis. Meats, Game, and Poultry, roasted and broiled. 
 
 Salade. Green Salads. 
 
 Entremets. S ^''^^^'J Vegetables. 
 
 I Sweet Dishes, hot and cold. 
 Dessert. Ices, Jellies, Ice-creams, etc. Candied Fruits, 
 
 Nuts, Cordials. 
 Cafe Noir. Black Coffee, Liqueurs. 
 
 The following is a fair service a la Russe. The names of 
 the dishes are given both in' English and in that bill-of-fare 
 French which is the despair of unsophisticated diners-out ; 
 but the dishes themselves are admirable, and the selection 
 of wines is worthy the approbation of an epicure. 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 1 23 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Chablis. 
 
 Huiires au citron. 
 
 PONTET CaNET. . 
 
 POTAGES. 
 Amontillado. Bisque d^^crevisses. ConsommS h la royale. 
 
 POISSONS. 
 Saumon du Kennebec^ sauce Hollandaise. 
 Chateau Yquem. Pommes Bermude en boulettes. 
 Petites Truites au naturet. 
 Croquettes aux pommes. 
 
 HORSD'CEUVRES. 
 Olives. Caviare en Canapes. Petits boudins au Satpicon. 
 Radis. Celeri. Amandes au Set. Varies. 
 
 RELEV^S. 
 
 Filet de Baeuf pique h la Milanaise. 
 Selle d^ Agneau. 
 
 ENTRIES. 
 
 Poularde h la Toulousaine. 
 
 Cbieleties d^Agneau Jinanciire. 
 
 Concombres farcies h la moelle. 
 
 Beignets de crime h la fleur d ^orange. 
 
 SORBET. 
 Ponche h la Romaine. Ponche au Kirsck. 
 
 ROTI. 
 
 Dindonneaux truffes h la Perigueux. 
 Faisans garnis de becassines. 
 Salade de celeri en remoulade. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Artichauts, Sauce au beurre. 
 Asperges en branches, Sauce Hollandaise, 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Bombe par/ait au Cafe. Nougat de fantaisie. 
 Porto Dore. Gelee att Madire. Violettes aux bonbons. 
 Fromages. Cafe et Liqueurs. 
 Champagne frappe en carafes sur table 
 
 Chambertin. 
 
124 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ENGLISH BILL OF FARE 
 
 FOR DINNER JL LA RUSSB. 
 
 Blue Point Oysters with Lemon, 
 
 SOUPS. 
 Bisque of Prawns. Clear Soup with royaU paste. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Kennebec Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Mountain Brook Trout. 
 
 Bermuda Potatoes, Potato Croquettes, 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 Olives. Caviare Toast. Forcemeat Balls. Radishes, 
 Celery. Salted Almonds. Small Pickles. 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef, larded, Milanaise style. 
 Saddle of Spring Lamb. 
 
 SIDE DISHES. 
 
 Pullet, Toulouse Style. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets with financiire garnish. 
 
 Cucumbers stuffed with Marrow. 
 
 Orange-flower Cream Fritters. 
 
 SHERBET. 
 Roman Punch. Kirsch Punch. 
 
 ROAST. I 
 
 Turkey with Perigord TruiHes. 
 Pheasants garnished with Snipe. 
 Salad of Celery with remoulade Sauce. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. SIDE DISHES. 
 
 Artichokes with Butter Sauce. 
 Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Coffee bombes. Fancy Nougat, Madeira Jelly, 
 
 Candied Violets. Cheese. Coffee and Liqueurs, 
 
 Frozen Champagne in carafes. 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 12? 
 
 THE AMERICAN DINNER. 
 
 This form of service combines the advantages of the two 
 already described, and still preserves the genial hospitality 
 implied by the personal service of the guests by the hosts. 
 None of the principal dishes are difficult to serve, and pla- 
 cing them upon the table greatly adds to its pleasant aspect. 
 The vegetables are brought in hot, at the moment of service, 
 when the large dishes have been placed upon the table, and 
 are at once passed by one of the waiters. This partial service 
 by the hosts enables the waiters to serve more rapidly. All 
 the dishes are brought to the dining-room door by the cook 
 or kitchen-maid, so that tl^e waiters need not leave the room ; 
 and as all the necessary dishes, silver, wine, and the little 
 dinner accessories, are placed upon the sideboard or in the 
 hot-closet before the dinner is announced, there need be 
 no such vexatious delay as occurs when the attendants are 
 obliged to leave the room in search of something required 
 upon the table. This routine, once understood, can easily 
 be carried out, and prevents all confusion : it suits both plain 
 and fine dinners, and enables one well-trained servant to wait 
 upon a dozen guests with ease. 
 
 The table is laid as for the dinner a la Russe, with the 
 cotton-flannel and the dinner-cloth, which may be of plain 
 white damask, or as elaborate as the fancy dictates. All the 
 covers, relishes, confectionery, and small sweets are arranged 
 in harmony with the decoration of flowers. The carafes of 
 iced water, the wines which allow of decanting, and the 
 shellfish are placed before the dinner is announced. Di- 
 rectly the guests ar^ seated, the first course of soup and fish, 
 if there is but one service of each, is placed before the host 
 and hostess ; when the service includes two soups, or two 
 dishes of any course, one is placed before the host, and the 
 other before the hostess, the latter being given that which is 
 
126 PR'ACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the least difficult to serve. When there is a double service, 
 there must be two servants at least. As each plate is sup- 
 plied by the host, the servant takes it from the left hand, and 
 carries it to the left of the guest, together with the appropri- 
 ate vegetable or relish. When wine is used, it is poured 
 from the right hand of the guest,- in the intervals of service 
 of the different courses. Directly all the guests are served, 
 and the host has taken a portion from any dish, it is at once 
 removed from the table, and replaced by the succeeding 
 course. As each guest signifies his readiness to have his 
 plate removed, — and he does this by laying the knife and 
 fork side by side across the middle of the plate, with the 
 handles to the right, — the waiter takes it away, and replaces 
 it with a hot plate, and another knife and fork appropriate to 
 the coming service, unless these are already upon the table. 
 The knife and fork are upon the plate, and the guest at once 
 lays them upon the table. As the waiter brings a plate con- 
 taining a fresh service, he takes the guest's plate back to 
 the host. After a vegetable or hot sauce has been passed, the 
 dish containing it is set upon the sideboard, ready to be 
 taken away. In a dinner of several courses, it is unusual for 
 a guest to ask for any dish a second time ; but at a small 
 family dinner the sauces and vegetables may be placed upon 
 the table until the course to which they belong is removed. 
 The plates of the host and hostess are taken away at the 
 conclusion of each course. 
 
 When the dessert is reached, all the glasses are taken 
 away except the water-tumbler and the glass of the wine 
 which the guest chooses to use during dessert; and the 
 crumbs are removed from the cloth, with a broad-bladed 
 silver knife, to a plate or small salver held in the left hand 
 of the waiter. The knife is better for this purpose than a 
 crumb-brush. The dessert-platp, containing a finger-bowl 
 and dessert knife and fork, is then set before each guest, 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. \2J 
 
 who at once removes the finger-bowl and its doily, and the 
 knife and fork, to the table ; leaving the plate ready for the 
 waiter either to take to the hostess, or for use for the small 
 sweets. Coffee can be served at table or in the drawing- 
 room ; and tea an hour after dinner, to the guests who re- 
 main, or to others who arrive when an evening at home 
 follows the dinner. 
 
 The bill of fare following comprises a double service ; 
 except in the courses composed of terrapin and canvas- 
 backs, when it would be gastronomic heresy to suggest the 
 choice of any other dish. When either of these dainties is 
 not available, or is not desired, they can be replaced by any 
 chosen entree or roast. A mayonnaise sauce should be upon 
 the table, with the choicest white celery, to use with canvas- 
 back. Directions are given elsewhere for carving ducks, but 
 a few words here will not be out of place. When the abun- 
 dance of duck permits half the breast to be served to each 
 guest, the matter is simple ; but when the supply is limited, 
 the carving becomes a fine art : then several deep cuts 
 should be quickly made on each side of the breast, down 
 to the bone, but no slice removed until all are cut, for a 
 point is made of serving canvas-back very hot ; the small bit 
 of flesh called the " oyster " in poultry, which lies in a Httle 
 hollow of the back-bone, between the leg and the wing, is 
 considered by epicures the most delicious morsel in the entire 
 bird. The use of melon at an early stage of the dinner is of 
 course optional ; but either pine-apple iced and without sugar, 
 cantelope, or watermelon is refreshing after a heavy soup or 
 fish ; and both the latter make delicious salads, either with 
 plain salad-dressing or with mayonnaise, as also does choice 
 Florida grape fruit. In many of the larger cities the tropical 
 fruit called the alligator pear is sold : it is a favorite salad in 
 the East and West Indies, combined with mayonnaise ; and 
 is also eaten with lime-juice or wine and sugar at dessert. 
 
128 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BILL OF FARE FOR AMERICAN DINNER. 
 
 Sherry 
 
 and 
 Madeira. 
 
 Blue Points, or Little Neck Clams on the half-shell. 
 
 Lemon, brown bread and butter. 
 Cream of Fresh Mushrooms. Terrapin Clear Soup. 
 Cantalope or Pineapple. 
 Broiled Pompano, Cucumber Sauce. 
 Chateau Yquem. Fresh Salmon, Shrimp Sauce. 
 Bermuda Potatoes. 
 Olives. Salted Almonds. Cheese Straws. 
 Claret. Breast of Spring Chicken with Cauliflower, HoUandaise 
 Sauce. Cold Boned Squabs with Orange Salad. 
 
 Madeira. 
 
 Chambertin. 
 
 Champagne. 
 
 Maryland Terrapin. 
 
 Champagne Ice. 
 
 ■ Canvas-back Ducks, Forest City Sauce. 
 
 Celery. Fried Hominy. 
 
 Lettuce Salad with Roquefort Cheese, 
 
 Broiled Fresh Mushrooms. 
 
 Asparagus with Mayonnaise. 
 
 Cabinet Pudding with Rum Jelly. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Cream Meringues. Candied Pineapple. 
 
 Philadelphia Ice Cream with Canton Ginger. 
 
 Nuts. Crystallized Fruits. Cheese. 
 
 Black Coffee. Cordials. 
 
 Although the double course is given in all these bills of 
 fare, it is neither imperative nor advisable except for large 
 dinners : a simple, well-chosen menu, of a few favorite 
 dishes, one or two delicate wines when they are desired, or, 
 for a family dinner, cider or some light malt beverage, will 
 often prove more acceptable than an elaborate repast. An 
 excellent little dinner, possible at any season, may be ar- 
 ranged somewhat as follows ; several dishes are named for 
 each course, so that the choice may be made of such dishes 
 as the market affords. Wines are named ; but, as already 
 indicated, their use is entirely a matter of choice. 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. 1 29 
 
 BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Chateau 
 
 Yquem, 
 
 1858. 
 
 Chateau 
 
 Larose, 
 
 1858. 
 
 Verze- 
 
 NAYB 
 SEC. 
 
 Oysters or Clams on the half-shell, very small. 
 
 Consommi, Terrapin Clear Soup, Potage h la Reine, or Bisque. 
 Cantelope, Watermelon, Pineapple, Grape Fruit, or Oranges. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Shad, Striped Bass, or Blue-Fish ; or. 
 
 Boiled Salmon, Sheeps-head, Sea Bass, Turbot, or Trout ; 
 
 with Bermuda, Hollandaise, Duchesse, Parisienne, 
 
 or Irish Potatoes. Cucumbers. 
 
 RELISHES. 
 
 Olives. Tunny-fish. Filets of Anchovies or Sardines. Stuffed 
 
 Olives. Caviare. 
 French Radishes. East India Gherkins. Salted Almonds. 
 
 Cheese Straws. Pickles. 
 Small Patties or Bouchees cold, with highly seasoned garnish of 
 
 fish, poultry, or game. 
 
 Fine Table-Sauces. Anchovy Butter. Celery. Small Raw 
 
 Tomatoes. Choice Cheese. 
 
 ENTREES AND ENTREMETS. 
 Vol-au-vents of poultry and game. Croquettes, Blanqueites, 
 
 Scallops, Salmis. 
 Sweetbreads, broiled, fried, or stewed, with Mushrooms, Peas, 
 
 Asparagus, or Tomato Sauce. 
 Chicken, fritbt, broiled, Maryland style, with Mayonnaise, 
 
 filets, and pinions sautles. 
 Filet of beef, larded, with Mushrooms, Spaghetti, Stuffed 
 
 Tomatoes, or vegetable garnish. 
 Lamb Cutlets, breaded, truffled, en papillate, witl^ Peas, Aspara- 
 gus, or Cauliflower. 
 Any Vegetable, stewed with a sauce. Fritters of Rice, Hominy, 
 
 and Flour, with sauce. 
 
 Sweet Puddings with sauces. Charlottes. Pastry. Jellies. 
 
 Moulded Creams. 
 
 Sorbet. Sherbet. Roman Punch. Champagne glace. 
 
 ROAST. 
 
 Any Game or Game Birds roasted, and served with a green salad. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 Ice Creams, with Canton Ginger. Water Ices. Frozen Pud 
 dings of fruit and fine cake. Ices. Confectionery. 
 Candied fruit. Nuts. Foreign Preserves with- 
 out sirup. Oriental Sweetmeats. Coffee. 
 
I30 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOXERY. 
 
 DINNER WINES. 
 
 While there is no absolute rule which is invariably followed 
 in the choice of dinner-wines, custom indicates the lightest 
 as most acceptable at the beginning of the dinner ; the more 
 stimulating, full-bodied wines are preferable from the releves 
 or removes to the roast j sweet, rich wines like the fine 
 Burgundies and champagnes are suitable for the second 
 course ; the liqueurs and cordials are approved with the 
 dessert ; and a dash of Cognac for the coffee, or a demi-tasse 
 with the cafe noir, end the dinner satisfactorily. Sometimes 
 at small, choice dinners, champagne glace otfrappe is served 
 throughout ; this champagne is frozen in the original bottles, 
 in the same manner as the frozen carafes, for about two 
 hours, or until semi-liquid ; it is then poured into wide- 
 mouthed flagons, which can be closed with a glass stopper, 
 and served at once ; the half-frozen champagne will retain 
 its consistency in the bottles or flagons for about fifteen or 
 twenty minutes after it is removed from the freezer. 
 
 As has already been said, the number of wines served, 
 depends upon the character of the dinner. At a small 
 dinner, a good Bordeaux wine may be served throughout, 
 flagons of it being placed upon the table slightly chilled ;* 
 carafes of water and cracked ice should also be on the table. 
 A more pleasant effect is produced by serving champagne 
 with the roast, the claret flagons remaining on the table. 
 The best succession of wines at a small dinner is a white 
 wine, such as Sauteme, or sherry, as far as the entrees ; then 
 claret to the roast; and, with and after the roast, iced 
 champagne. As many glasses are placed before each guest 
 as there are wines ; and they should be, as Ruskin says, 
 "radiantly clean." Colored glasses are used for white and 
 Rhine wines. Guests who take no wine may either turn 
 down the glasses, or by a sign forbid the attendant filling 
 
FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, A NO WINES. I3I 
 
 them ; when the wine is poured but not drank, the fact is 
 very conspicuous. The wines are poured from the right 
 hand of the guest, the glasses not being quite filled : the 
 servant mentions the name of each wine before he pours 
 it, so that the guest may decline it if he wishes to do so. 
 At a family dinner, ale may be served with crackers and 
 cheese. 
 
 At an elaborate dinner, a good succession of wines is as 
 follows : upon the table, decanters of chilled sherry and 
 Madeira, one of each being near enough to the host to 
 ■ permit him to pass them ; a good Bordeaux or claret in 
 flagons, the wine having been slightly chilled* before pouring 
 it from the bottles. All the wines which are iced, and poured 
 from the original bottles, should be held with a napkin. The 
 Burgundies should be about the temperature of the room in 
 winter, and of the outer air in summer ; the Sauternes should 
 be slightly cooled, and poured from the original bottles. 
 All the sparkling wines should be in coolers, in the original 
 bottles ; a bottle of champagne in a cooler should be on 
 the floor at the right side of the host. With the shellfish a 
 white Burgundy or good Sauterne, such as Chablis or Cha- 
 teau Yquem, is most acceptable ; the same wines, or sherry, 
 with the soup ; if the soup is turtle or terrapin, punch or 
 old Madeira is called for ; with the fish, a good Sauterne, 
 Moselle, or hock ; when large removes or releves are served, 
 an old Madeira is in place ; with the entrees the claret 
 comes, and after them the Roman punch or sorbet; if any 
 wine is served here, it should be Burgundy, which may 
 remain during the service of the roast unless it is replaced 
 with champagne iced in coolers ; with the large sweets, old 
 port or Madeira is appropriate, and then all the large wine- 
 glasses except the one in use should be removed. A warm 
 wine is required when there are several iced sweets, and with 
 ice-cream Canton ginger is acceptable ; with the candied 
 
132 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 fruit and nuts, the liqueurs and cordials are placed, with, 
 small glasses ; and brandy is served with black coffee. If 
 any of the dinner-wines re-appear at dessert, fresh glasses 
 are set upon the table with them, and a bottle is always 
 placed near enough to the host for him to pass it. 
 
 * The chilling of wines is accomplished by keeping them in a 
 cool cellar, or in summer by placing the bottles in freshly drawn 
 water, not ice-water. Chilling is not icing. While an ordinary 
 Bordeaux or table claret is generally preferred by Americans 
 slightly chilled, epicures are inclined to treat their choice clarets 
 like Burgundy ; in cold weather the wine may remain upon the 
 sideboard in the dining-room until it acquires the temperature of 
 the room ; or, if there is not time enough for that, the bottle may 
 be placed for two or three minutes in a pail of lukewarm water ; 
 the water must not be hot, only warm enough to develop the 
 aroma of the wine. Some Americans spoil the flavor of claret by 
 putting lumps of ice in the glasses containing it ; when it is liked 
 very cold it is best as claret-cup or punch. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 
 
 THE selection of guests for a dinner should be thought- 
 fully made. Not only should social obligations and 
 personal preferences be consulted, but also the individual 
 characteristics of the guests ; for a disagreeable neighbor 
 can destroy the entire enjoyment of the repast. A dinner 
 is not the affair of a moment : it implies prolonged associa- 
 tion. At a luncheon, where the time spent at table is short, 
 at a garden-party, where change of companionship is possi- 
 ble, at a dance, where the favorite partner can be secured at 
 least once, no such nice discrimination is demanded, upon 
 the part of the host, as at the dinner-table, where guests are 
 placed in close proximity for hours. It is true that no intro- 
 ductions need take place, except between guests who are to 
 go down together, when they are not already acquaintances, 
 or where there is on the part of the guests a natural desire 
 for introduction to some distinguished person present ; but 
 one takes the fact for granted that every guest at a friend's 
 table is a desirable companion, and every one is at liberty 
 to enter into conversation without a formal introduction. 
 Although such desultory intercourse does not entail subse- 
 quent recognition, it is the duty of the host to make sure 
 that the passing intercourse leaves no unwelcome claims 
 upon his guests. Then, too, those persons should be placed 
 together whose conversation is likely to strike upon conge- 
 
 ^33 
 
134 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 nial topics in the intervals of well-served courses. The 
 guests see so little of the hosts, after the first salutation, that 
 they are in a measure bound to replace themselves in the 
 arrangement of their guests. While one would not place a 
 chatterbox without taste beside a man inclined to pay the 
 choice dish of the dinner the tribute of silent appreciation, 
 nothing can be more wearisome than a long, elaborate dinner 
 beside a person without smile or voice. It is true that a 
 gourmand may find consolation in well-cooked dishes, but 
 it is not in every house that these are served. To place a 
 flippant guest beside an earnest one, a commonplace on-e 
 next a' poet, is to intensify the misery of ennui. The dinner- 
 giver does not always invite " minds " to the feast, but the 
 fact that guests have minds should not be forgotten. 
 
 On the part of the host, a dinner-invitation implies a 
 desire for a certain social intimacy which is not involved in 
 any other form of entertainment. One may give pleasant 
 assurances of social happiness in the formal interchange of 
 calls, or the slightly more personal intercourse of prolonged 
 receptions or of evening affairs : these are agreeable ways 
 of paying one's social debts. But to ask a friend to dinner 
 means friendliness indeed ; for this reason, a dinner-invita- 
 tion should be accepted only from those whose friendship is 
 welcomed. It should always be returned^ during the social 
 season ; that is, before people separate for the summer : if 
 the recipient has not an establishment which admits of giving 
 a dinner in return, a ride or drive in the country, or a good 
 restaurant-dinner or a theatre-party in the city, is considered 
 a social equivalent. There should be no delay in answer- 
 ing a dinner invitation definitely : this gives the hostess an 
 opportunity to fill the guest's place if the hospitality is 
 declined. If the invitation is accepted, punctuality' to the 
 hour fixed for the dinner is imperative on the part of the 
 guest. The tact of a lady is to be appreciated, who, after 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 1 35 
 
 an unforeseen hinderance, reached the house of her enter- 
 tainers just as the last of the guests were entering the dining- 
 room ; she dropped her wraps in the entrance-hall where 
 her escort left his hat, and entered the dining-room with 
 him at once, to the surprise and gratification of her hosts. 
 The immediate acknowledgment of an acceptance to a 
 dinner is, in the city a call within three days after the dinner, 
 unless there is marked intimacy, in which case a longer time 
 may be allowed to elapse ; but no circumstance of ordinary 
 consequence should set aside this social form, even among 
 intimate friends, for these little courtesies are the graces 
 of friendship. In the country, where it is not easy to get 
 about, more latitude in point of time is permissible ; unless 
 an immediate return of hospitality is contemplated, any 
 reasonable time may elapse before the call of acknowledg- 
 ment is made. 
 
 The most enjoyable dinners are those where every one 
 is at ease. Given the fact that the selection of the guests is 
 perfect, their number should not be greater for a private 
 dinner than the hostess can render all requisite courtesies to. 
 Then, too, every care should be taken, previous to the din- 
 ner, to insure absolute ease on the part of the hosts. The 
 comfort of guests depends upon equal and perfect service, 
 as much as upon excellent cookery. As has been said 
 already, one well-trained servant can attend to ten or twelve 
 guests with the American dinner or the service a la Russe ; 
 but if the service is English, or if the number of guests is 
 larger, there should be one or more other servants ; and for 
 elaborate dinners a butler should attend to the wine, direct 
 the general table-routine, and, when not actually engaged, 
 stand beside the host or hostess and watch to make sure 
 that no person is unserved, because it is exceedingly awk- 
 ward for a guest to ask for attention. The hostess so largely 
 depends upon the servants for ease during the progress of 
 
136 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the dinner, that she should, before it begins, make sure that 
 they are entirely conversant with the wants of guests and 
 the capacity of the establishment. This point is especially 
 essential when temporary attendants are brought in : they 
 should be well informed concerning all the facilities of the 
 house which can in any way affect the comfort of the guests. 
 These details of service as closely affect the perfection of 
 dinner-giving as does the deportment of the hostess when 
 she stands ready to receive her guests. 
 
 If the resources of the establishment are limited, a per- 
 fectly quiet entertainment should be given, the requirements 
 of which come within the capacity of the household. A 
 good hostess never inflicts tlie chance of failure upon her 
 friends, and never makes experiments with her guests. Her 
 servants know just what they have to do, and do not either 
 cause delay by being unprepared, or make a noisy haste in 
 performing their duties. If any accident occurs at the 
 table, they know how to remedy it quietly ; and they do 
 every thing necessary to the comfort of the hour, without 
 prompting. If the hostess knows that her servant will 
 spread a fresh napkin over sauce spilled upon the cloth from 
 a dish, or cover a claret-stain with salt, and conceal it with a 
 napkin, she will naturally be easier than if she thinks such 
 possible mishaps must go unremedied ; in a word, if she feels 
 sure of her service, she can give every thought to the enter- 
 tainment of her guests. All this is very easy to suggest : it 
 is possible to accomplish if the hostess has tact and manage- 
 ment, and sufficient good sense to limit her social ambition 
 by her own abihty to carry out her plans. She will never 
 attempt to exceed her means in dispensing hospitality : her 
 table appointments will be abundant and suitable, even if 
 they are simple. Her choice of dishes will be confined to 
 those which she knows can be well made at home, or she 
 will call in competent outside help to insure success Id 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 1 37 
 
 specialties. She will never affront her guests by serving a 
 dish that is not absolutely good ; and, unless for very formal 
 occasions, she will place before them delicacies such as she 
 is famous for making or ordering. Unless they are intimate 
 friends, she will not urge them to partake of her fare, or in- 
 vite comments upon it ; but she can none the less stamp her 
 dinners with her own individuaUty. The novice in dinner- 
 giving should confine her first efforts within small bounds, 
 beginning with few dishes, a very simple service, and a small 
 number of guests ; as she gains the confidence which follows 
 frequent efforts, she can safely extend her hospitality; but 
 she should take care that it never becomes ostentatious. 
 Efforts to make a lavish display are vulgar. The model 
 hostess gives well-chosen guests the best of her fare, and so 
 marks her superiority ; but the parvenice exhausts the market 
 to overload a table, and yet fails to create enjoyable dinners. 
 The formal dinner-invitation is a courtesy which a guest 
 even of intimate standing has a right to expect from the 
 hostess : it may either be written upon fine stationery, or 
 engraved in script. The prevailing form is : — 
 
 Mr. & Mrs 
 
 request the pleasure of 
 
 Mr. &■ Mrs _ 
 
 company at dinner. 
 
 yamtary Second, at Eight o'clock. 
 
 No. 500 Madison Avenue. 
 
 The favor of an answer is requested. 
 
 A written answer should be returned directly the invita- 
 tion is received, using the same personal form that appears 
 in the invitation. If the invitation is accepted, and any cir- 
 
138 ■ PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 tumstance arises to present attendance, the hostess should 
 be informed at once ; but no trivial affair should be allowed 
 to interfere. Formal invitations and replies to dinner-invi- 
 tations should be sent by hand : other invitations may go by 
 post. After a dinner a call is imperative : a card is not a 
 proper acknowledgment. Invitations to dinners of more 
 than ten persons should go out two weeks in advance of the 
 date chosen. A husband is never invited without his wife, 
 or vice versa, unless one is known to be an invalid or out of 
 society, except where there is sufficient intimacy to warrant 
 this departure from formality when some expected guest dis- 
 appoints at the last moment : the affair should always be 
 clearly understood even then. 
 
 The social duties of the hostess ar& too clearly defined to 
 admit of any deviation from them ; but according to the 
 number of her guests, and the degree of intimacy with 
 them, she may give them more or less personal attention, — 
 the fact being understood, that there is ample attendance to 
 insure every one's comfort ; after that, she may permit her- 
 self to take some degree of pleasure in the society of her 
 special favorites, although she never may give any one but 
 the guest of honor such attention as to be conspicuous. At 
 least half an hour before the time named for dinner, the 
 hostess should be dressed and ready to receive her guests, 
 although they are not expected to arrive much before the 
 dinner-hour. Her place should be near enough the door to 
 permit her to welcome each one who enters. To the ladies 
 she says a pleasant word, and establishes them comfortably, 
 chatting with them between the arrivals ; to every gentleman 
 she at once indicates the lady whom he is to take in to din- 
 ner, introducing him if the parties are strangers. At large 
 and formal dinners, each gentleman, as he passes from the 
 entrance-hall to the drawing-room, receives from an attend- 
 ant a small envelope, presented upon a salver, containing a 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 1 39 
 
 card bearing the name of the lady he is expected to escort, 
 and usually a small boutonni'ere : if he does not know the 
 lady, he must at once inform the hostess so that the neces- 
 sary introduction can take place. The short interval be- 
 tween the arrival of the guests and the service of the dinner 
 may be spent in greeting acquaintances and in pleasant chat 
 about passing events or subjects of general interest : all din- 
 ner-talk should be light and amusing, but even common- 
 place is more acceptable than silence. The wise ones avail 
 themselves of this opportunity to approach those to whom 
 they wish to speak, because they know that during dinner 
 conversation is possible only between neighbors, and after it 
 is over all are likely to be engrossed in following up dinner- 
 table topics, or the departure of guests may render inter- 
 course impossible. 
 
 When all the guests have arrived, a servant opens the 
 dining-room door when it adjoins the drawing-room ; or 
 otherwise he approaches the hostess, and says, " Dinner is 
 served," or " Madame is served." The host then leads the 
 way to the dining-room, with the oldest or most distinguished 
 lady present upon his arm. No delay is made for guests, 
 unless they are of much importance : it is the imperative duty 
 of a guest to be punctual ; far better to exceed in earliness 
 than to be one moment late. In the dining-room, the ser- 
 vant draws out the chair of the guest of honor, or that of the 
 lady whom the host escorts : if there are attendants enough, 
 the chairs of all the guests may be drawn out, and replaced 
 by the attendants as the guests are seated. All seat them- 
 selves as they enter the room, each gentleman assisting the 
 lady he escorts when there are not enough servants to place 
 the chairs. As the guests arrange themselves comfortably 
 at the table, they may unfold their napkins, and begin to eat 
 the shellfish, without waiting until all are placed when the 
 number is at all large. Usually there is no formal beginning, 
 
I40 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 except at private dinners when some ceremonial of grace 
 preludes the repast : taste and custom regulate these mat- 
 ters. In entering the dining-room after the host, there is 
 no special order of precedence in America, unless the- chief 
 magistrate or some locally honored personage is present : 
 ordinarily the gentleman who is the guest of honor, goes into 
 the dining-room last, with the hostess, and is seated at her 
 right. If the table is small, the host indicates the places 
 the guests are to occupy as they enter the room ; if the 
 party is large, a little menu-caxA is placed at each cover, 
 bearing the name of the guest for whom it is designed. 
 After the shellfish is eaten, the lady who is escorted by the 
 host, and who sits at his right hand, is served first, then the 
 other ladies, and after them the gentlemen : each guest may 
 begin to eat as soon as served. The routine of the dinner 
 has been given elsewhere. 
 
 At the close of the dinner, the hostess bows to the lady at 
 the right of the host, who rises and opens the door for her, 
 and she leads the way out of the dining-room, the other 
 ladies following her, and the hostess going last : this, of 
 course, is at large formal dinners, otherwise there is no spe- 
 cial form imperative. It is a graceful courtesy for the gen- 
 tlemen to rise as the ladies leave the table, and assist them 
 with their chairs. Sometimes they prefer to accompany 
 them to the drawing-room ; but if any remain at the table, 
 the host must stay with them, and see that they are served 
 with wine or cordials, and coffee and cigars. It is of course 
 understood, in polite society, that no excess is tolerated ; and 
 any young man showing any inclination to pass the limits 
 of moderation very soon finds himself tabooed. The use of 
 wine at ordinary dinners is a matter of solely personal pref- 
 erence, but at state dinners its absence would be an affront 
 to the guests. 
 
 In the drawing-room, the hostess should always chat a 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. 141 
 
 little with all her guests, even if the number is large ; but she 
 should pay special attention to strangers. If there is any 
 lady present accomplished in any way, the hostess may re- 
 quest her to assist in entertaining the others ; and compli- 
 ance on the part of the guest should be immediate and 
 cheerful, unless there is some grave reason for declining. 
 The hostess may omit such requests for assistance, without 
 implying any offence. In the case of guests who are pro- 
 fessionally distinguished, this question of entertainment 
 should always be previously understood, because sometimes 
 there are objections to their contributing to the evening's 
 amusement. After the gentlemen enter the drawing-room, 
 tea should be served, and then the guests are at liberty to 
 depart; but where strict social propriety is preserved, no 
 one should leave until after the guest of honor has gone. 
 As each guest takes leave of the hostess, a few words should 
 be said in acknowledgment of the enjoyment of a pleasant 
 evening, without any reference to the dinner itself The call 
 after the dinner should be made in due time, as also should 
 the reciprocating hospitality. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE ETIQUETTE OF VARIOUS ENTERTAIN- 
 MENTS. 
 
 LARGE BREAKFASTS. 
 
 AS breakfasts are far less expensive than dinner-partie? 
 and as the time chosen, between nine and twelve 
 O'clock, is generally less full than the evening hours, these 
 entertainments are greatly favored by people of leisure. In 
 common with luncheons, they afford a pleasant and available 
 form of hospitality which gentlemen without establishments 
 can offer to their lady friends. The etiquette is very simple : 
 an informal written invitation, sent either by hand or post, 
 to which there is an immediate corresponding response, and 
 a return entertainment during the season, when the breakfast 
 is given by a lady, fulfil all requirements. The toilet for 
 guests is a walking costume, and for the host a quiet morn- 
 ing toilet. The place of the entertainment may be in one's 
 own house, or at any well-known restaurant. 
 
 The table should be laid in a sunny, cheerful room, with 
 spotless linen and china, and polished glass and silver. The 
 table arrangement for an elaborate breakfast is the same as 
 for dinner, except that no soup is served, and the coffee and 
 tea equipages are placed upon the table. Bread, butter, 
 relishes, condiments, fruit and flowers, are upon the table ; 
 the hot dishes are upon the sideboard in chafing-dishes, or 
 are served hot from the kitchen in courses, according to the 
 preference of the host. Hot breads come to the table with 
 142 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMEISTTS. 1 43 
 
 a napkin thrown over them, as also do baked potatoes, frit- 
 ters, fried cakes, scallops, gratins, breaded chops, croquettes, 
 and all dishes which would be impaired by having moisture 
 fall upon them as it condenses on china or silver covers. 
 Dry toast should be served in a rack, or the slices set on 
 edge on a hot plate, and only a small quantity made and 
 served at once ; it should be delicately brown and crisp ; 
 buttered toast should be set in the oven for a moment after 
 it is made, and then served covered with a hot napkin ; milk- 
 toast should be served in a covered dish, from which the 
 cover should be lifted quickly and reversed at once to pre- 
 vent the condensed steam falling back upon the toast. But- 
 ter should be cut in small squares, or moulded, and kept in 
 ice-water or upon a cake of ice until it is served. Boiled 
 eggs should be served very hot the moment they are done, 
 and eaten from the shell with a spoon : in Ameiica the cus- 
 tom prevails of breaking the eggs into a glass or cup before 
 eating them. The shells of eggs should be washed in cold 
 water before they are boiled. Fruit is placed upon the table 
 and eaten as the guests desire. The whole fruits, such as 
 apples, oranges, bananas, cherries, and melons, are usually 
 eaten at the beginning of the repast ; and those which re- 
 quire sugar, such as berries, pine-apples, and peaches, are 
 taken towards its close. The cereals, such as oatmeal, 
 hominy, and cracked wheat, are eaten after the whole fruit, 
 with sirup, cream, or preserves. The coffee, chocolate, 
 cocoa, and tea are taken at the guests' pleasure. After the 
 fruit and cereals come the small meats, eggs, and garnished 
 side-dishes of fish, game, and poultry. The breakfast closes 
 with the fried cakes, and cut fruit with sugar, or berries, ac- 
 cording to the season. 
 
 When wines are used at breakfast, they should be Sau- 
 temes, white Burgundy, hock, or claret. 
 
 A good breakfast, of medium extent, would be as follows : — 
 
144 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Cantelope or Oranges. 
 
 Broiled Fish with Stewed and Saratoga Potatoes. 
 
 Maryland Chicken with Cream Gravy and Hominy. 
 
 Iced Oatmeal with Cream. Olives. 
 
 Small Tenderloin Steaks with Watercresses and Radishes. 
 
 Omelette with Mushrooms. 
 
 WafHes. Pone. Rice Cakes with Maple Sirup. 
 
 Peaches iced and sugared. 
 
 THE FAMILY BREAKFAST. 
 
 This meal is second only in importance to the dinner, es- 
 pecially when any extreme mental labor is demanded of the 
 members of the family. The importance of early and sub- 
 stantial breakfasts is emphasized in the writings of the au- 
 thor upon sanitary matters, and consequently such repetition 
 here is unnecessary; but of the fact that the housekeeper 
 should personally superintend and be present at this meal, 
 there can be no question. If the breakfast is unsatisfactory, 
 a man half hungry or exhausted will generally have recourse 
 to some tonic stimulant to carry him through his morning 
 work; and a second thought is not needed to realize the 
 consequence of such a custom. Our national habits demand 
 that the breakfast shall be hot and abundant, and that 
 there shall be such successive variety that the appetite shall 
 always be stimulated. Fresh fruit in season, or that pre- 
 served with little or no sugar, or radishes, cucumbers, toma- 
 toes, watercress, or lettuce, should make a part of every 
 breakfast if obtainable. Oatmeal, cracked wheat, or some 
 form of hominy or corn-meal, with cream, milk, sugar, or 
 sirup, is indispensable when the family includes children. 
 Coffee, chocolate, and cocoa are suitable breakfast bever- 
 ages, but tea is undesirable. Meat, eggs, or fish, in some 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 45 
 
 hot form, should always be served, and potatoes or variety 
 in breads are desirable. Nearly all American breakfasts in- 
 clude some form of hot fried cakes with sirup or sugar. 
 
 The family breakfast-table is laid with the coffee-service 
 at the head of the table ; the largest hot dish at the other 
 end ; a knife, fork, spoon, glass, napkin, small bread-and- 
 butter plate, and salt, at each cover; and the side-dish, 
 breads, and fruit at convenient places upon the table. When 
 fruit is served first, as a separate course, it may be placed 
 before the other dishes are brought in, with a special plate, 
 fruit-knife, and napkin, and a finger-bowl for each cover, 
 which are to be removed before the breakfast is served. 
 
 When there are not many servants, the care of the break- 
 fast-table falls upon the ladies of the family ; and there 
 should be preparations made for clearing away the table, and 
 washing all but the greasy dishes in the breakfast-room. A 
 side-table is necessary for this, or a large butler's tray, upon 
 which the dishes can be gathered in regular piles or groups 
 after they are freed from the remains of the breakfast. Any 
 dishes removed from the table in the course of the meal can 
 be placed there, being protected from flies if they contain 
 food which can be used again ; the plates and saucers in 
 little piles,' the cups and glasses in groups, and the spoons, 
 knives, and forks in a tray. 
 
 To wash the dishes, a small wooden tub or a tin pan, with 
 a little mop or a clean dishcloth, soap, and plenty of hot 
 water for washing and rinsing, are required. The glasses are 
 to be washed first, rinsed in warm water, and dried at once 
 on clean towels ; then the cups and saucers and the sauce- 
 dishes ; next the silver ; and finally the dishes and empty 
 platters, all scraps of food having first been removed from 
 them. The washing-water should be changed frequently, 
 and a little borax or washing-soda dissolved in it to facilitate 
 the removal of the grease. When a butler's pantry adjoins 
 
146 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the breakfast-room, the dishes are always washed there ; the 
 same care being exercised in keeping the sink clean as in 
 the kitchen. Dishes removed to the kitchen to be washed 
 should be just as neatly and carefully treated as in the pantry 
 or breakfast-room : after the dishcloths and towels are used, 
 they should be thoroughly washed m hot soapy water, rinsed 
 in hot clean water, and dried in the sun or at least .n the 
 open air. 
 
 FAMILY LUNCHEON. 
 
 The range for family luncheon is as elastic as that for more 
 formal occasions. In the country, and also in town where 
 there are children in the family, it often takes on the form 
 of a simple dinner ; in that case, the service is as for dinner, 
 the dessert-service and tea and coffee being upon the side- 
 board. If the luncheon is plain, the service is the same as 
 for breakfast. The suitable dishes are small hot meats, fish, 
 game-birds, poultry, dressed salads, all forms of potatoes and 
 eggs, bread and butter, cheese and crackers, vegetables, fruit, 
 and sweets. A servant may attend, or any one may rise 
 from the table to fetch what is required. 
 
 In the country, or where the luncheon is practically the 
 children's dinner, the service should include soup or bouillon 
 if possible ; the latter is served in shallow bowl-shaped cups, 
 the former in small soup-plates. A hot joint, with one cold 
 meat if desired in addition, potatoes boiled or baked, and 
 one or more hot vegetables, together with a simple dessert, 
 gives a good luncheon variety. The covers are laid as for 
 dinner, with napkin and bread, two knives and forks, a 
 spoon, water-glass, and salt ; if one wine is used, it may be 
 claret or sherry at the family luncheon, or some malt bever- 
 age or cider may replace the tea or coffee, at the choice of 
 the family. Among intimate friends an invitation to lunch- 
 eon may be general, or it is quite proper for them to claim 
 hospitality without it. 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 47 
 LUNCHEON PARTIES. 
 
 Luncheons are essentially ladies' parties, usually given by 
 ladies in their own homes ; sometimes an informal lunch is 
 given at some restaurant celebrated for some special dish, 
 but the preference is for the home entertainment. The in- 
 vitations are the same as for breakfasts. The table is laid as 
 for dinner, save that the linen may be embroidered or col- 
 ored ; and any dinner form of service may be followed, save 
 that some of the courses are omitted. At an informal 
 luncheon, all the dishes may be placed upon the table at 
 once, after the shellfish and bouillon are eaten ; and then the 
 attendants may be sent from the room if the guests wish to 
 be alone with the hostess. Fruit, flowers, and relishes may 
 be used in decorating the table, together with any sweets not 
 iced : these are to be served at the moment of eating. Bon 
 bons, preserves, and confectionery are in place on the lunch- 
 table. The bill of fare may range from crackers and cheese 
 and ale, to a menu elaborate enough for a little dinner. The 
 formal luncheon begins with bouillon or broth served in china 
 bowl-shaped cups standing in saucers, or with a dinner-soup 
 served in a soup-plate ; next come the hot entrees, combi- 
 nation salads, terrapin ; and then Roman punch, and the 
 broiled game with green salad ; and last the sweets and fruit. 
 Chocolate is an appropriate luncheon beverage, as also are 
 malt liquors for plain lunches. The luncheon wines are 
 Sauterne, sherry, and Champagne ; or the different summer 
 beverages, such as claret-cup and its kindred, may be used ; 
 or wine may be omitted altogether, at choice. The formal 
 luncheon is served like the dinner d. la Russe, the attendant 
 beginning the service with the lady at the right hand of the 
 hostess. The guest's preference is asked in the matter of 
 wine ; the plates are changed as at dinner, cold ones being 
 used for salad and dessert ; finger-bowls are placed with the 
 
148 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 dessert, after the table has been cleared. When fresh sug- 
 ared or small fruits are used, they are served in fancy saucers 
 set on a napkin laid in a dessert-plate ; and a silver knife, 
 fork, and spoon are placed beside the plate as it is laid upon 
 the table by the waiter. Ice-creams and ices served in small 
 paper cases are also placed upon a napkin in a dessert-plate. 
 Berries are eaten from the stem or with a spoon ; cut sugared 
 fruits with a spoon ; melons with knife and fork or a spoon, 
 according to their solidity ; grapes are eaten from the fingers, 
 and care is taken to delicately place the seeds and skins 
 upon the plate. Hard cheese is eaten with a fork or from 
 the fingers ; the soft, rich kinds may be put upon a biscuit 
 or piece of bread with the knife, and so lifted to the mouth. 
 Salads are eaten with the fork, a knife being used to divide 
 them. At the earlier stages of the repast, the fork is used 
 for croquettes, vegetables, fish, and small carved entrees, the 
 knife being used only when absolutely necessary for cutting. 
 
 Luncheon favors, which are to be carried away by the 
 guests, may consist of bonbonnieres, fans, Kttle bags or bas- 
 kets, flowers in fancy holders, bouquet-pins, menu-\i.o\ii&x% 
 when there are bills of fare, or any pretty trifle. 
 
 The invitations to small luncheons may be written on the 
 ordinary note-paper, or engraved in script on cards when 
 the affair is to be formal. 
 
 The following is a good menu of a luncheon of moderate 
 size : — 
 
 BILL OF FARE. 
 
 Boitilton. 
 
 Lobster Chops with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Cucumbers. Olives. Radishes. Crackers and Cheese. 
 
 Mayonnaise of Chicken. Vol-au-vent of Oysters. 
 
 Breast of Grouse broiled, with Orange Salad. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. Roquefort Cheese. Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Bavarian Cream. Noyeau Jelly. Ttitli Frutti. 
 
 Chocolate. Fruit. Bonbons, 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. I49 
 
 AFTERNOON RECEPTIONS. 
 
 The double motive of securing the visits of pleasant 
 friends, and of massing together such tedious ones as might 
 be unwelcome, leads many ladies to choose a day for the 
 reception of visitors. The time is specified upon the visit- 
 ing-cards which are used with those to whom one desires to 
 be "at home." The form may be "At home Wednesdays,'' 
 " Wednesdays, 4 to 6," or, when it is desirable to limit the 
 time, " Wednesdays in December ;" the day, hour, or month 
 being chosen with reference to other social duties or occu- 
 pations. Very often married ladies invite some young friend 
 to receive with them, and in that case the young lady's name 
 appears upon the card of the hostess : — 
 
 Mrs. Charles Adams, 
 Miss Bi-ewster, 
 
 at ?^0me 
 
 Wednesday, December Second, from 4 to 6. 
 2q West 41st Street. 
 
 The receipt of a card bearing a date like this is an invita- 
 tion to the recipient ; if the hour named is in daylight, the 
 costume called for is a quietly elegant carriage-toilet or 
 walking-dress, with an appropriate bonnet and wrap. Cards 
 are not left by the callers unless there is a cardrreceiver in 
 the entrance- hall ; in that case the card is left there when 
 the guest departs. As the servant opens the door, the visit- 
 ors pass at once into the drawing-room, where the hostess 
 receives : her dress should be a fresh but not too elaborate 
 home toilette. Callers are not necessarily introduced, but 
 
ISO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 they are at liberty to chat with each other, because discrimi- 
 nation in the distribution of cards is taken for granted ; and 
 the hostess must manage to entertain all with equal atten- 
 tion ; in order to assist the hostess in this rather difficult 
 position, the call should be short. If it is impossible to call 
 upon set days, the visitor should be content to leave her card, 
 as only decided intimacy warrants the request to see a lady 
 except upon her " days." When refreshments are served at 
 these afternoon receptions, they should be quite simple ; a 
 few fancy biscuit ox petit-fours, with wine or cordial, may be 
 upon a side-table where one of the ladies of the family pre- 
 sides, or they may be passed upon a small salver by a maid- 
 servant. Cake and lemonade, or very dainty sandwiches 
 and tea, may be used at discretion ; in any case the refresh- 
 ment must be light, otherwise the reception takes on the 
 appearance of a kettle-drum. 
 
 AFTERNOON TEAS. 
 
 The pleasantest of all informal social gatherings are those 
 , known as teas, high teas, and kettle-drums ; sometimes they 
 take their name from some special characteristic, such as the 
 color of the tea-equipage or of the napery or the flowers, 
 lovely effects being possible. The hostess invites a few 
 friends, either verbally or by an informal note ; or, when 
 these entertainments are to be frequent, she may save her- 
 self trouble by having a card engraved in script, with blanks 
 for dates : — 
 
 Mrs. George Morris, 
 
 Wednesday, 
 
 No. s West 23d Si. Tea at Five o'clock. 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 151 
 
 When young ladies receive, their names appear on their 
 mother's card; if the mother is dead, upon the father's 
 card, and the card of the chaperone who is to assist them 
 is sent at the same time. The invitations are given about 
 three days in advance, and should receive the courtesy of a 
 written answer ; after the tea, a card should be left within 
 two or three days by those invited as well as by the guests, 
 unless the latter are intimate, when the call may be omitted, 
 but the tea must be returned in due season. The hostess 
 usually invites friends, or those whom she knows wish to 
 become acquainted. The proper toilet is the same as for 
 afternoon-receptions. If the tea-table is large, it may be 
 laid with an embroidered cloth with napkins to match ; 
 ornamented china and flowers may be used. Where the 
 large table is used, and there are several ladies to assist in 
 entertaining the guests, they may be seated at it ; but when 
 the hostess presides alone, it is more convenient and pleas- 
 ant to have the tea served from a side-table by the servants, 
 to little tables placed near groups of guests in different parts 
 of the room. Some of these little tables are provided with 
 an under-shelf which is available for an extra plate or cup. 
 The ornamentation of the small tables is often beautiful in 
 the extreme, as they are a favorite medium for displaying the 
 skill of the hostess in embroidery, or her taste in the choice 
 of harmonious surroundings. 
 
 Some teas take their title from a specialty of ornamenta- 
 tion : for instance, at a pink tea the prevailing color in table- 
 linen, china, and flowers, would be pink ; at a rose tea, 
 rose-color would exceed, and the flowers would be roses, in- 
 cluding a corsage bouquet for each guest, or a choice flower 
 in the winter season. The tea should consist of thin bread 
 and butter, delicate sandwiches and relishes, and some very 
 good tea. The finer brands of Chinese and Russian tea can 
 now sometimes be obtained in this country. A favorite 
 
152 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 English mixture is one pound of Congo to a quarter of a 
 pound each of Assam and Orange Pekoe ; another delicious 
 tea mixture which is sent to Eastern friends from ladies in 
 San Francisco is the Chinese Kettle-drum brand. Cake, 
 coffee, oysters, or dressed salads may be served if desired; 
 but the table should never be overloaded, or exhibit an osten- 
 tatious display. 
 
 FAIdILT TEAS. 
 
 At family teas, or suppers, the table is laid in the same 
 way as for breakfast, except that the tea-equipage replaces 
 that used for coffee ; unless the tray is of silver, it is now 
 the custom to lay the cups and saucers upon the tablecloth, 
 and place the rest of the service towards the right hand and 
 in front of the hostess. The usual dishes are small hot 
 breads, toast, preserves or honey, cake, bread and butter, 
 cheese, with either cold or hot meat, game, or eggs in some 
 form. The service is always quiet and informal. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S SUPPERS. 
 
 As ladies entertain their intimates at luncheons, so gentle- 
 men delight in special suppers, — fish-suppers, game-suppers, 
 oyster-suppers, or general entertainments where the menu 
 embraces all the delicacies of the season. As the hostess 
 never appears at these suppers, they can be made absolutely 
 perfect if she is a good housewife. They may either be 
 parties of invitation, the guests being notified three or four 
 days in advance, or impromptu when the scope of one's 
 establishment permits a sudden accession in numbers. The 
 hour chosen is generally late, after a card-party or a visit to 
 some place of amusement. The table appointments may be 
 the same as for breakfasts or luncheons, according to the 
 service of tea and coffee or wine. There should always be 
 black coffee served from the side-table, some flowers and 
 fruit, plenty of light, and wine at discretion or claret- or 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. I 53 
 
 champagne-cup in summer. The dishes suitable for gentle- 
 men's suppers are hot and cold entrees, the latter being 
 small and highly seasoned, plenty of relishes, salads with 
 mayonnaise, shellfish and game of all kinds, Welsh rarebits 
 and other forms of cheese, crackers, scalloped and devilled 
 dishes, and a few sweets if the party is large. Unless the 
 occasion is some special one, all formality of service is dis- 
 pensed with, the dishes all being placed upon the table at 
 the beginning of the supper, the hot ones over chafing-dishes, 
 and the attendants leaving the room after the first service. 
 Malted beverages may be substituted for wine, or tea, coffee, 
 and chocolate used at the pleasure of the guests. 
 
 SUPPER PARTIES. 
 
 At the set supper, whether it follows an evening at the 
 theatre or an entertainment at home, or whether it is made 
 the subject of special invitation, the service is either that of 
 the luncheon for informal affairs, or that of the dinner a la 
 Russe, in courses with appropriate wines, except that no soup 
 is used, either bouillon or stewed oysters replacing it. Oysters 
 in any form and in variety are appropriate at all suppers, ex- 
 cept that raw oysters are not usually served at ball-suppers. 
 A plain supper may consist of a dish of oysters, a cold roast 
 chicken, and a salad ; one wine, or punch, or tea or coffee at 
 pleasure. A hot supper, a little more elaborate, might be of 
 bouillon, sweetbreads with peas, asparagus, or mushrooms, hot 
 broiled or roasted game, a salad, an ice, champagne and cof- 
 fee, and some bonbons. Still another, more extensive, might 
 be bouillon, small hot entrees of oysters, sweetbreads,yi>z<?-^ra^, 
 and terrapin ; game with salad, and a little rich old cheese ; 
 then jellies, ices, fruit, coffee, and a liqueur or brandy. The 
 best light supper drinks are the different " cups ; " the favorite 
 supper wines are sherry, Madeira, Burgundy, and champagne ; 
 the winter beverages are mulled wine, eggnog, and punch. 
 
154 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 At all suppers the host takes the most distinguished or the 
 oldest lady present to the supper-room ; the guests follow 
 without any special precedence ; and the hostess comes last, 
 having with her the guest to whom she wishes to pay the 
 most attention. The servants do not leave the supper-room 
 unless all the dishes are placed upon the table at once : in 
 that case, they may be dismissed after the first service of 
 the guests. 
 
 EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 At evening parties where the entertainment is dancing, or 
 music and conversation, the refreshment may be elaborate 
 or simple as the hostess chooses ; cake, chocolate, and ices 
 are suitable, or sherry and biscuit, or a bowl of punch and 
 little cakes ; or a table may be arranged with white linen, 
 flowers, fruit, salads, and cold entrees, ice-cream and cake, 
 ices, punch, eggnog, tea, coffee, wine, claret-cup, or cham- 
 pagne, as one's inclination or means dictate. From the sim- 
 plest to the most elaborate the range is permissible, always 
 with, the intent to escape vulgar profusion. The collation 
 may be served at any hour after ten o'clock if there is a set 
 table ; or it may be upon a side-table if simple, to be par- 
 taken of at the desire of the guests. 
 
 CINDERELLA PARTIES. 
 
 The popular English entertainments called Cinderella- 
 parties are simply evening dances beginning at an early hour, 
 say nine o'clock, and ending at midnight. The dress, re- 
 freshments, and etiquette are the same as for ordinary even- 
 ing parties. The invitations are " at home " cards, with the 
 hour and date written in, and " Cinderella Dancing " written 
 or printed in one corner, at the choice of the hostess : the 
 invitations are sent out at a length of time in advance 
 corresponding to the importance of the entertainment. 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 155 
 CARD PARTIES. 
 
 These parties are good amusements for evenings in au- 
 tumn and winter. They are usually composed of intimates : 
 the entire service is informal, and very little of the burden 
 of entertainment falls upon the hosts. And only the lightest 
 of refreshments are necessary : they should be of such nature 
 as to permit partaking of them without interfering with the 
 games ; either sherry and biscuit, claret-cup, or tea and cof- 
 fee, with little cakes, or ale, crackers and cheese, are suita- 
 ble and sufficient ; they may be served from a side-table, or 
 placed upon little tables near the guests as at afternoon teas. 
 Claret-cup is made either in' a fancy flagon or pitcher of 
 glass, or in a large silver " loving-cup " holding over a quart, 
 made in the form of a high vase, richly engraved and decor- 
 ated ; when the beverage is drank as a " loving-cup,'' a large, 
 fine white napkin is placed in one of the handles, for the 
 purpose of wiping the edge of the cup after each guest 
 drinks from it. When cards are objectionable, dominoes, 
 checkers, or chess may replace them ; the purpose of all 
 such games being social amusement. 
 
 CALLING DURING ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 When a chance caller arrives at a house while any enter- 
 tainment is going on, to which guests have been invited, it 
 is perfectly permissible for the hostess to be " not at home ; " 
 this excuse, given by the servant at the door, should never 
 be made a subject of social comment or offence, because the 
 hostess has a right to decide what friends she shall select to 
 partake of any form of pleasure, or for the discharge of her 
 social obligations. 
 
 NEW YEAR'S RECEPTIONS. 
 
 The once favorite receptions are gradually falling out of 
 use, but a few hints may be given for those who wish to 
 
156 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 pursue the old custom. It is quite proper to offer only hot 
 coffee and a sandwich; or one wine and a plain cake or 
 biscuit ; a bowl of punch, a tureen of hot bouillon, and a 
 salad and some cold game or a galantine ; or hot oysters or 
 terrapin and Madeira : any of these are suitable ; but the 
 service sTiould be simple in the extreme, one maid attending 
 at the table or sideboard. At the door a maid or a man 
 may attend. The caller upon entering sends in his card, 
 unless he is a rather intimate friend, in which case he enters 
 the drawing-room at once, and leaves his card when he de- 
 parts, upon the card-receiver in the hall. When ladies do 
 not wish to receive, a small basket, placed outside the door 
 for callers to drop their cards into, is sometimes used, although 
 this practice is falling into disusage ; many society people 
 now pass the holidays at country houses. 
 
 WEDDING RECEPTIONS AND BREAKFASTS. 
 
 The invitations are in the name of the parents or of the 
 surviving parent, engraved in script upon note-paper. The 
 prevailing form is : — 
 
 Mr. 6^ Mrs. Francis Adams 
 
 Request the pleasure of your Company at the 
 
 Wedding of their Daughter 
 to 
 
 At the Church of the Trinity, 
 
 On Wednesday, February Fourteenth, 
 
 At One o'clock. 
 
 The cards of the bride and bridegroom are enclosed with 
 the invitation to the wedding ; the invitation to the reception 
 or breakfast is engraved upon a separate card, and enclosed 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. I 5/ 
 
 in the same envelope. The invitations to wedding-breakfasts 
 are sent out two weeks in advance, and the reply must be as 
 immediate and formal as for a dinner. At wedding-recep- 
 tions, a servant should be at the door of the drawing-room 
 to announce the names of callers, whose cards, bearing an 
 address, must be left in the hall ; gentlemen leave their hats 
 in the hall when there is a breakfast. Invited guests must 
 either attend the reception, or send cards within ten days, 
 call personally within the season or the year, and if possible 
 entertain the newly wedded pair within three months. At 
 a reception, the refreshments may be a cake and one wine, 
 but no tea or coffee is served even at a full breakfast. The 
 wedding-breakfast may consist of bouillon, wine at choice, 
 salads, small game, shellfish, ices, creams, and jellies ; the 
 wedding-cake is set before the bride, who cuts the first slice ; 
 boxes of the same kind of cake are upon the table for the 
 guests to take, but they are no longer sent out. The ladies 
 wear their bonnets to wedding receptions and breakfasts, and 
 when the room is limited the breakfast is usually a " stand- 
 up~" affair. 
 
 After the return from the wedding-tour, the bride and 
 groom are given dinners at the houses of both their families 
 and of the bridesmaids. They need not entertain in return, 
 except by set reception-days ; then the refreshments may 
 be tea and cake upon trays or little tables, or the service of 
 a high tea or a kettle-drum. 
 
 For silver and golden weddings, the entertainment may 
 be simple or elaborate at the wish of the hosts. The invita- 
 tions are " at home " cards, with date and " Silver Wedding " 
 engraved upon them, or they may be in script on note-paper. 
 Among the collation there should be a wedding-cake con- 
 taining a ring. 
 
 When introductions take place at any entertainment, 
 the hostess should introduce the younger to the elder, and the 
 
IS8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 least distinguished person to the celebrity, first being sure 
 that the introduction is desired by both parties. At large 
 teas, receptions, and garden-parties, general introductions are 
 out of the question : but the guests are at liberty to converse 
 without them ; they do not necessarily involve themselves in 
 future intercourse thereby, nor do they by watering-place 
 introductions unless they are desired. 
 
 COUNTBY-HOUSE PARTIES. 
 
 The entertainment of guests at country houses demands 
 much more hospitable feeling and versatility of attainments 
 than the courtesy of city party-giving, which taxes the host 
 for only a few hours. To the pleased guest at a country 
 house, the agreeable visit may easily lengthen into weeks 
 unless a limit has been set in the invitation ; but what seems 
 to him an unbroken round of natural pleasures may have 
 severely taxed the hospitable ingenuity of the entertainer, so 
 that a visit should never be extended unless the guest has 
 every assurance that it is desired. All enjoyment under such 
 circumstances depends upon the prevalence of harmony of 
 tastes and feeling among the guests ; for, despite the fact 
 that many out-door amusements and occupations engross 
 them during the day, every evening re-unites them. If their 
 selection for a three-hour dinner requires, tact and thought, 
 how much more is demanded when the arrangement is for 
 the long and informal association which country life implies ! 
 
 In inviting guests to a country house, the date and dura- 
 tion of the visit should be defined ; and, when the invitation 
 is accepted, the hostess should at once advise the guest of 
 the most convenient way of reaching her house, giving the 
 hours for trains if the expected arrival is to be by rail, and 
 having a carriage at the depot upon the arrival of the train, 
 unless the party of guests coming at once is very large ; in 
 that case, etiquette does not require the hostess to send car- 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 1 59 
 
 riage if there are any public conveyances, although it is a 
 graceful courtesy to do so. It is not imperative to welcome 
 the guests at the station, but the hostess should, if possible, 
 be at home when they reach the house : if they come in 
 turn, after the departure of others, and if she is absent from 
 the house pending the entertainment of resident guests, she 
 should see that all preparations are made for the comfort of 
 the latest comers, and should order tea to be served in their 
 rooms at once. It is allowable for guests, to refresh them- 
 selves and rest before joining the company below stairs, but 
 only illness is a plea for the absence of either guests or 
 hostess from the dinner-table. Before the dinner-hour the 
 hostess should be in the parlors to receive the guests, and 
 introduce them to each other; and she should designate 
 companions in specifying the order of entering the dining- 
 room, unless the party is a family one, when all formality 
 may be dispensed with. After dinner, the evening's amuse- 
 ment should be so planned by her as to throw congenial 
 people- together, and to allot to each one that share of the 
 general entertainment best suited to his or her capacity 
 or accomplishments ; for in such assemblies the pleasure of 
 all often depends upon the talents of individuals. Books, 
 musical instruments, games, and various devices for social 
 amusement are plentiful and varied, so that no hostess need 
 be at a loss for aids to her hospitality. When bedtime ar- 
 rives, the hostess should give the signal for retiring. In the 
 morning she should preside at the breakfast-table for about 
 an hour, after which she may leave the late-comers to the 
 care of the servants, and devote herself to the pleasure of 
 the guests who first join her, until personal or household 
 matters demand her attention. Unless the house-party is 
 large, all the guests should endeavor to be at the breakfast- 
 table with some degree of punctuality ; but the breakfast 
 should begin at its stated hour. Letters and papers may be 
 
l6o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 glanced at during the meal if the party is large enough to be 
 redeemed from stupidity by such proceeding, but it shows a 
 lack of courtesy to centre one's entire attention upon a book 
 during any repast when others are present at the table. 
 
 After luncheon the hostess must devote herself to her 
 guests until it is time to dress for dinner ; that is, she must 
 devise some scheme of pleasure in which all can join, or see 
 that individuals have some pleasant occupation offered. But 
 in no case need she burden herself with undue care ; after 
 once having made sure that she has placed enjoyment within 
 the reach of her guests, she may leave them to avail them- 
 selves of it, or to rest, as best contents them. On Sunday 
 the hostess should accompany guests to church, when they 
 desire to attend divine service, preceding them up the aisle, 
 and standing by the pew-door until they are seated. When 
 the guests are ready to terminate their visit, the hostess 
 should be in the parlqr in ample time for them to make their 
 farewell and reach their train without haste. 
 
 ^ GARDEN AND LAWN PARTIES. 
 
 All brief country entertainments, such as summer garden 
 and lawn parties, tennis, archery and croquet tournaments, 
 and picnics and drives, are arranged with reference to the 
 weather: the invitations take on the form of an informal 
 note, and usually bear the proviso "weather permitting," 
 although guests are never expected on wet days. The invi- 
 tations are issued in the name of the hostess, and are not 
 engraved unless the affair is one of magnitude : when car- 
 riages are to meet any special train bringing guests from the 
 city, the invitation should indicate that fact, and a time-table 
 should be enclosed with the invitation. The hostess should 
 receive her guests in a handsome garden-dress with a bonnet : 
 the guests should wear tennis, archery, or other special dress, 
 when the party assumes any definite character ; otherwise a 
 
THE ETIQUETTE OF ENTERTAINMENTS. l6l 
 
 pretty summer dress is suitable for the ladies, and any well- 
 made flannel or woollen suit for the gentlemen. 
 
 When the entertainment involves special exercise, as when 
 tennis is played, there should be pleasant seats provided out 
 of doors ; and if there is not plenty of shade, one or more 
 tents should be erected; and rugs should be laid if the 
 ground is at all damp. When games are to be played, the 
 best possible outfit should be provided, suited in abundance 
 and variety to the number of guests ; and such games should 
 be chosen as afford amusement to both ladies and gentle- 
 men. When the games are exhausting, there should be a 
 special tent devoted to the comfort of the players, and pro- 
 vided with such forms of light refreshments and restoratives 
 as are most quickly conducive to comfort, — cordials, hot 
 coffee, cigars, and the cooling " cups " especially ; and there 
 should be an attendant constantly in service there, besides 
 some one to come and go between the house and the tent. 
 
 The form of refreshment for all the lawn-parties is about 
 the same. Either a room opening upon the lawn, or a tent, 
 is set apart for the repast, and servants attend to it all the 
 time while the guests are upon the grounds. The dishes are 
 generally small cold entrees, sandwiches, relishes, salads, and 
 a few small sweets ; ices, sorbets, and ice-creams are accept- 
 able, together with the small fruits in season ; tea, coffee, 
 chocolate, claret and champagne cups, lemonade, and the 
 various temperance beverages, are supplied plentifully, con- 
 tained in glass pitchers, and poured into tumblers. The 
 picnic refreshments should be chiefly cold luncheon dishes, 
 which can be transported easily and neatly, with very few 
 sweets ; coffee and lemonade are generally made upon the 
 picnic ground, and if any wines are used they should be 
 warming ; cordial of some kind, or spirits, should be carried 
 in case of sudden illness. 
 
 The spot chosen for picnics should be remote enough 
 
J 62 PRAC'IICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Ko be secure from intrusion, but near some shelter, because 
 summer storms so often come up without any previous in- 
 dication : there should be no glare of sun or water without 
 the possible relief of a grove or a tent, because that alone 
 often causes serious discomfort and even sickness. The dress 
 should be a stout walking-costume of woollen material, with 
 a hat large enough to shelter the eyes, and a cane or staff if 
 there is any rough climbing. In arranging a picnic party, if 
 gentlemen are available they should equal the ladies in num- 
 ber; and unless the picnic is an invitation affair, each party 
 should understand what part of the luncheon they are 
 expected to contribute. When invitations are issued, they 
 should go out about a week in advance of the date fixed 
 upon, and should include the house-party of the person to 
 whom they are sent unless some young lady is invited to 
 complete a desired number ; then the invitation should in- 
 clude her chaperone. Invitationsshould be answered at 
 once definitely. When the party arrives at the picnic ground, 
 the hours for luncheon and departure should be fixed upon, 
 and then the pursuits of the day may be followed according 
 to individual inclination ; but unless there are plenty of 
 attendants, the labor of preparing and removing the luncheon 
 should not be allowed to fall upon a few persons unless they 
 desire it to be so. The day's enjoyment should not be 
 marred by too late a stay or too lingering a return, and 
 stragglers by inclination should remember that their delay 
 may mar the pleasure of others. When the picnic is not 
 one of invitation, but the meeting of friends commonly bent 
 on enjoyment, each guest may defray a share of the general 
 expense. 
 
 Arrangements for camping-out parties are so complicated 
 as to extend beyond the limits of a paragraph, and therefore 
 readers interested in the author's plans for such gatherings 
 are referred to her work specially devoted to that subject. 
 
Part II. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SMALL SHELL-FISH. 
 SBELL-FISH ON THE HALF-SHELL (HUITRES). 
 
 The custom generally prevails in this country, of beginning 
 every dinner, where there is any attempt at formality, with 
 small shell-fish served on the half-shell. Even in the inland 
 towns, oysters and hard clams can usually be procured, for 
 they are now shipped in barrels from the eastern seaboard to 
 all parts of the country accessible by rail. Sometimes a fine 
 grade of canned oysters is served on plates painted to imitate 
 five or six half oyster-shells ; but great care should be exer- 
 cised, if this is done, to have the oysters used directly the 
 can is opened ; if there is the slightest taint, or deterioration 
 from exposure to the air, the success of the dinner will be 
 marred. Indeed, it is best to omit this first service of shell- 
 fish, unless they can be freshly taken from the shells. The 
 proper accompaniments for raw shell-fish are lemon and 
 brown bread and butter, both of which are placed upon the 
 table when it is laid. 
 
 OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL. 
 
 Choose the smallest plump oysters which can be obtained. 
 In the New- York markets, all very small oysters in good 
 condition for serving on the half-shell are called Blue-Points. 
 
 ■63 
 
164 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The small native oysters of California are excellent, having 
 the coppery taste so much esteemed by European epicures. 
 The^ small oysters of the southern Atlantic seaboard are 
 delicious. Have the shells of the oysters liberally dashed 
 with cold -water to free them from mud, and then open 
 them, loosening the oyster from both sides of the shell by 
 dividing the muscle variously called the " eye '' and the 
 " heart " (both terms are erroneous) ; take off the shallow 
 half of the shell, leaving the oyster lying loose in the deep 
 part, carefully removing all bits of shell which may be 
 broken in opening the oysters: if, the oysters are carefully 
 opened, very little of the shell will be broken. Arrangs the 
 deep half-shells containing the oysters upon plates, five or 
 six on each plate, with the smallest part of the shell towards 
 the centre of the plate ; put a quarter of a lemon in the 
 midst of the oysters, and have more lemon upon the table, 
 together with several plates of brown bread, cut very thin 
 and buttered and then folded to enclose the butter. Do not 
 dish the oysters until just as they are wanted for the table : 
 they may be opened, arranged in the deep shells on a large 
 pan or tray, and kept in the ice-box until just before serving 
 them. The plates containing the oysters are placed upon 
 the tables just before the guests enter the dining-room'. 
 
 OYSTERS IN A BLOCK OF ICE. 
 
 This method of icing oysters is more suitable for lunch- 
 eon, or for a gentlemen's supper, than for a dinner-service. 
 A block of clear ice is best: snow-ice, or that which is 
 opaque and full of air-holes, melts more quickly than clear 
 ice. Make a slight hollow in the upper surface of the ice, 
 and lay the deep half-shells containing the oysters in this 
 cavity ; place the block of ice on a dish large enough to 
 contain all the water from the melting ice, and then at once 
 serve the oysters on the block of ice. When there are many 
 
SMALL SHELL-FISH {HUITRES). 1 65 
 
 giiests, a block of ice may be- surrounded by unopened 
 oysters, and several layers of the shell-fish placed upon the 
 top : this necessitates the opening of the oysters at the 
 table, an operation diiBcult to accomplish unless one is an 
 expert at " stabbing " the oysters, or prying open the shells, 
 without pounding off the edges. The oysters might be 
 partly opened, care being taken not to lose their liquor, and 
 then packed around and upon the block of ice, with their 
 deep shells undermost : the opening would then be a com- 
 paratively simple matter. Of course, this service of oysters 
 necessitates an ample supply of napery, and sometimes an 
 entire change of the table-linen. 
 
 OYSTERS IN ICE. 
 
 A caterer's device for serving raw oysters at a dinner of 
 sixteen persons may be notecl. Hollow shapes had been 
 frozen to represent apples made of ice, the upper half mov- 
 able and lifted by a stem ; the oysters were placed in the 
 lower section of the apple, which was set on a small doily 
 laid on a plate : a few bits of parsley made a pretty garnish. 
 The objection to this method of icing the oysters was, that 
 the melting of the ice-apple plunged them in a bath of ice- 
 water ; while the hollow at the bottom of the interior of the 
 apple collected the oysters in a wet mass. They lost not 
 only their natural flavor, but also their individuality : one of 
 the excellences of the service on the half-shell is that each 
 bivalve reaches the consumer in its legitimate habitat, and 
 surrounded by its own distinctive liquor. 
 
 When half-shells are not obtainable, the fancy oyster - 
 plates might be iced by being left for an hour or longer in 
 the ice-box, so that they would speedily cool the oysters 
 placed upon them ; or a thin film of ice might be frozen 
 over them, by exposing them to a freezing temperature with 
 a little water in each one : this, however, wcmld make the 
 
1 66 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 oysters watery as the ice melted. A third method of icing 
 oysters is given in the next recipe. 
 
 COLB CANNED OYSTERS. 
 
 When it is impossible to obtain fresh oysters for the half- 
 shell service before dinner, a partial substitute may be made 
 from canned oysters, by carefully following the details of this 
 recipe. The oysters will be most presentable if served on 
 the fancy oyster-plates which imitate the shells; and they 
 must be absolutely cold. 
 
 From a can of fine oysters select the largest and fattest ; 
 see that no bits of shell adhere to them, and drain them on 
 a sieve ; put their liquor over the fire with an equal quantity 
 of vinegar and enough hot water to cover the oysters, and 
 let the broth thus made boil, removing all scum as it rises. 
 When the broth is quite. free from scum, throw the oysters 
 into it, and watch them closely ; the instant they become 
 full and plump, skim them out of the broth, and again lay 
 them on the seive to drain. A very little time will suffice 
 to make the oysters plump : if they are allowed to cook until 
 they shrivel, they will be spoiled for this dish. As soon as 
 the oysters are placed on the sieve, cover them with a 
 cloth wet in cold water, and let them cool ; when they are 
 entirely cold, arrange them on the fancy oyster-plates, and 
 serve them cold, with lemon and brown bread and butter. 
 
 LITTLE-NECK CLAMS ON THE HALF-SHELL. 
 
 Choose fresh small Little-Neck clams, of even size ; wash 
 the shells with plenty of cold water ; and, just before serving 
 them, open the clams like raw oysters, leaving each clam in 
 one of the shells with its liquor, after entirely loosening it 
 from the shell. Arrange half a dozen clams on a plate, as 
 half-shell raw oysters are arranged ; put a piece of lemon 
 on each plate, and serve the clams at the beginning o/ din- 
 
SMALL SHELL-FISH {HUITRES). 1 6/ 
 
 ner, as half-shell raw oysters are served ; send thin brown 
 bread and butter to the table with them. 
 
 The fresh raw clams are an excellent tonic and appetizer j 
 and their fresh liquor is a more valuable stimulant for inva- 
 lids than beef-tea, as made according to usual methods or 
 from meat extracts. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 SOUPS {Potage). 
 SOUP STOCK. 
 
 The same general directions in regard to boiling, clarify- 
 ing, and coloring soup-stock, will apply to the making of any 
 clear soup or bouillon : the difference is in the ingredients 
 used, and the flavor which results. Ordinary stock may be 
 prepared in about three hours ; but when a gelatinous stock 
 is desired, the boiling must be continued for five or six hours 
 in order to extract the gelatine from the bones. While the 
 gelatine thickens soup, it does not add to its nutriment ; and 
 unless the soup-kettle is kept very closely covered while the 
 stock is boiling, much of its flavor and some of its substance 
 will escape with the steam during long-continued boiling. 
 
 To make stock for an ordinary clear soup, use beef cut 
 from the neck or leg, including a marrow-bone ; allow a 
 pound of meat and bone for each quart of stock. Trim off 
 any defective parts, and wipe the meat with a wet towel ; cut 
 the meat from the bone in rather large pieces, so that it may 
 be used for hashes or potted meat ; there is still some nour- 
 ishment remaming in it after the soup is made, and it retains 
 a pleasant flavor from the vegetables and seasoning used in 
 the soup ; it is only the beef remaining from beef-tea which 
 has little food value or flavor. After the meat is cut from the 
 bones, have the bones broken in rather small pieces, and lay 
 them in the bottom of the soup-kettle ; put the meat on the 
 bones, and add cold water in the proportion of one quart of 
 
 i6S 
 
SOUPS (POTAGE). 169 
 
 water to one pound of meat and bone ; set the kettle over 
 the fire, cover it, and heat its contents until they boil, remov- 
 ing all scum as it rises j the scum is composed of blood and 
 albumen, and is to be saved to add to any thick brown soup 
 or gravy because it is nutritious ; the object of removing it 
 in making stock is to leave the broth clear; a little salt 
 added while the scum is rising will hasten the operation. 
 
 While the stock is being thus freed from scum, prepare 
 the vegetables as follows : To four quarts of stock allow one 
 medium-size carrot scraped, one medium-size turnip peeled, 
 one medium-size onion peeled, without cutting the top or 
 root close, or breaking the layers apart ; stick into the onion 
 a dozen whole cloves ; wash one medium-size root of parsley 
 with the stalks and leaves attached, lay the leafy part in the 
 palm of the left hand, in the midst of the leaves place a 
 dozen whole peppercorns, a small blade of mace, a small 
 bay-leaf, and one sprig of any dried sweet herb except sage ; 
 if celery is in season, one of the smaller green stalks or 
 about half a dozen of the green leaves may be added ; and 
 then the parsley root and leaves wrapped around the other 
 seasonings, and the little bunch tied compactly with cord. 
 After all the scum has been removed from the stock, put in 
 the vegetables, together with two teaspoonfuls of salt, and 
 replace the cover of the soup-kettle. Let the stock boil 
 gently for two hours or longer. If the kettle is placed so 
 that the heat strikes it from one side, causing the stock to 
 boil from one side, the soup will be clearer after it is strained 
 than if the boiling is taking place in all parts of the kettle 
 at once. 
 
 When the stock has boiled the desired length of time, lay 
 a folded clean towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl 
 or jar large enough to hold the stock ; take up the meat, and 
 set it aside to use in any dish of the nature indicated above ; 
 the vegetables may be chopped and combined with some 
 
170 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of the meat in the form of a hash, which should be highly 
 seasoned. Pour the stock through the towel, letting it run 
 through without stirring or squeezing it to disturb the little 
 sediment which will remain upon the towel ; when all the 
 stock has run through the towel, remove the colander, put 
 a sieve or a piece of cheese-cloth over the bowl or jar, to 
 protect the stock, and let it cool. If a close earthen or 
 metal cover were used, the steam from the hot stock would 
 condense upon its inner surface, and partly sour ; falling back 
 into the stock, it would deteriorate the whole. When the 
 stock is entirely cold, the fat which forms on the surface in 
 a cake can be removed, and both the stock and the fat clari- 
 fied in accordance with the recipes given below. 
 
 CLEAR SOUP OR CONSOMMA 
 
 When the stock is quite cold, remove the fat from the sur- 
 face ; for each quart of stock, allow the white and shell of 
 one egg, and a tablespoonful of cold water j put these ingre- 
 dients into a saucepan, and mix them together, then pour 
 in the stock ; set the saucepan over the fire, and heat its 
 contents gradually, stirring occasionally to prevent the egg 
 sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Allow the stock to 
 heat and boil gently ; the albumen of the egg will entangle 
 all the cloudy particles floating in the stock, and thus clarify 
 it ; let the stock boil until it looks perfectly clear under the 
 egg, that will rise and float upon the surface in the form of 
 a thick white scum, under which the stock will show a clear 
 amber color ; when it has boiled long enough to insure this 
 appearance, pour it into a folded towel laid in a colander 
 set over an earthen bowl ; let the soup run through the towel 
 without moving or squeezing it. The soup will be perfectly 
 clear, and of a delicate amber color, if these directions are 
 carefully followed : it may then be salted to taste, and served. 
 Clear soup should never be dark in color like bouillon or 
 
SOUPS (POTAGE). 171 
 
 broth : if too light, a very little caramel may be used to 
 darken it. After the soup is clarified, if there is any fat float- 
 ing upon the surface, lay one piece of paper after another 
 upon the top, removing each one as it becomes saturated 
 with grease ; use any soft absorbent paper, the ordinary 
 white wrapping-paper used for tea being the most service- 
 able. All thin soups should be entirely free from fat, and the 
 paper must be used to remove it : the most careful skimming 
 will not accomplish this result. 
 
 THE CLARIFYING OF FAT. 
 
 Put the fat in a saucepan, with water enough to float it ; 
 set the saucepan over the fire, and let the water boil ; then 
 pour both water and fat into an earthen bowl or jar, and let 
 the fat cool upon the surface of the water ; when the fat is 
 cold, it can be lifted from the surface of the water, the sedi- 
 ment which forms on the under side can be scraped off", and 
 it will then be ready to use. Clarified drippings are excel- » 
 lent for frying vegetables, and for warming with hash and 
 minced cold meats. 
 
 CARAMEL. 
 
 Put a heaping tablespoonful of brown sugar on a frying- 
 pan over the fire, and stir it until it is dark brown, and begins 
 to smoke ; at once begin to add water, a tablespoonful at 
 once, stirring constantly, until enough has been added to 
 quite dissolve the burnt sugar ; then strain the caramel 
 through a cloth, let it cool, and bottle it. The bottled cara- 
 mel will keep a long time ; a few drops added to soups, 
 sauces, gravies, or jellies, gives them a rich amber color, 
 without imparting any perceptible taste. 
 
 BOUILLON. 
 
 To make stock for bouillon, proceed as directed in the 
 recipe for clear soup stock, adding to the ingredients there 
 
1/2 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 specified, for four quarts of stock, a three-pound fowl dressed 
 and trussed for boiling, and about a pound of veal bones. 
 Boil, cool, and clarify the stock as directed in the recipe. If 
 when the bouillon is clarified it is not dark brown, color it 
 with a little caramel. The fowl can be taken up when it is 
 tender, and used for salad or croquettes. 
 
 CLEAR SOUP WITH ROYALE PASTE. 
 
 Into clear soup, made as directed in the proper recipe, 
 put, for each quart, half a cupful of little strips of royak 
 paste made as follows : Beat together the yolks of four raw 
 eggs, a gill of clear soup, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
 and grated nutmeg; put the custard thus formed into a 
 shallow dish well buttered, using such size as to make the 
 custard about an eighth of an inch thick ; place the dish in 
 a pan of warm water, and steam the custard over the fire or 
 in the oven until it is firm ; then cool it, cut it in little strips, 
 , put it into the soup, and serve it at once. 
 
 SPRING SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 To two quarts of consomme or bouillon add a half-pint of 
 vegetables such as carrot, turnip, and Jerusalem artichoke, cut 
 in small dice, cylinders, or cubes after they are peeled, and 
 a gill of any green vegetable boiled until tender in salted 
 boiling water ; as soon as the vegetables are tender, and be- 
 fore they begin to break at all, drain them from the boiling 
 water, throw them into cold water, and after they are cold, 
 and their color is set, add them to the soup, which should 
 be boiling hot, and then serve it. 
 
 The large vegetables may be turned or cut with any of 
 the small vegetable scoops shown in the proper illustration ; 
 the green vegetable, such as lettuce, green cabbage, celery 
 or spinach leaves, or sorrel, should be cut in shreds, and 
 boiled as directed above, before putting it into the soup. 
 
SOUPS {potage). 
 
 173 
 
 CASE OF VEGETABLE CUTTERS. 
 
 The accompanying cut shows a case of cylindrical vegeta- 
 ble cutters, made of tin, the smallest being withdrawn from 
 the case ; the tubes are used for cutting various garnishes 
 and salad vegetables, and for making little rounds of pastry 
 and bread to be fried for 
 , garnishes; the medium 
 sizes are useful for tak- 
 ing out the cores of 
 fruit, and the smallest 
 for cutting small pieces 
 of vegetables for soups. 
 Vegetables cut with these 
 cylinders are shown in 
 another illustration. 
 
 OX-TAIL SOUP. 
 
 Cut an ox-tail in pieces 
 about an inch long, wash 
 it well in plenty of cold 
 water, put it over the 
 fire in fresh cold water 
 
 enough to cover it, and let it slowly reach the boiling-point ; 
 then drain and dry it, roll it in flour seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, put it over the fire in a saucepan containing two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter made smoking hot, and brown it ; 
 while the ox-tail is being browned, peel and cut in small 
 dice a carrot, a turnip, and an onion ; when the ox-tail is 
 brown, add the vegetables to it, together with three quarts 
 of boiling water and a palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 
 per, and boil the soup slowly for three hours, keeping the 
 saucepan covered ; then add a tablespoonful of any good 
 table-sauce, and serve the soup. If, when the soup is done, 
 
 Case of Vegetable Cutters or Cylinders. 
 
174 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 it is not as thick as ordinary cream, malce it so by boiling 
 with it a little browned flour ; if it is too thick, thin it with 
 a little boiling water ; see that it is palatably seasoned, and 
 serve it. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 Thoroughly wash a fresh calf s head ; cut off the skin 
 without mangling it, so that the best parts may be reserved 
 for different dishes after it is boiled in the soup-stock ; cut 
 out the tongue whole, and take out the brains without break- 
 ing them. Full details of this operation have already been 
 published in several of this author's works, and any accom- 
 modating butcher will perform it carefully for a customer. 
 After the head is skinned, have it split so that the different 
 passages and mouth can be thoroughly cleaned, and then 
 wash the entire head in plenty of cold water. Put the bones 
 of the head in the bottom of the soup-kettle, lay the skin 
 and tongue upon them, cover them with cold water, and 
 place the kettle over the fire where its contents can slowly 
 reach the boiling-point ; remove all scum as it rises, and 
 when the stock is clear put in a carrot, a turnip, and an 
 onion peeled, a bouquet of herbs made by tying together 
 a handful of parsley, a bay-leaf, a stalk of celery, a sprig 
 of any sweet herb except sage, a dozen whole cloves, and 
 peppercorns, or a small pod of red pepper. Cover the 
 kettle, after adding a tablespoonful of salt, and boil the soup 
 gently for two hours ; then take out the head and tongue, 
 and wrap them in a wet cloth, and continue the boiling for 
 four hours, keeping the kettle closely covered to prevent the 
 evaporation of the soup-stock. When it is done, strain it 
 and cool it as directed in the recipe for clear soup-stock. 
 When the stock is cool, take off the fat ; cut the thinnest 
 parts of the head in small dice ; make some egg-balls as 
 directed in the proper recipe ; allow half a cupful of egg- 
 balls and a cupful of calf s head for each quart of soup ; 
 
SOUPS (potage). 175 
 
 for each quart mix together over the fire a tablespoonful 
 each of butter and flour, and stir them until they brown ; 
 then gradually stir in a quart of stock ; when the soup is 
 quite smooth, and begins to boil, add the egg-balls and 
 calPs head ; put a glass of Madeira and the juice of half a 
 lemon, or half a lemon sliced, into the soup-tureen ; see that 
 the soup is palatably seasoned, pour it into the tureen, and 
 serve it at once. The best parts of the calf s head may be 
 broiled, fried, or stewed, and the tongue and brains served 
 boiled, with some sharp sauce ; the tongue alone may be 
 served boiled with any kind of boiled "greens; " and the 
 brain made into fritters or croquettes. 
 
 BROWN TURKEY SOUP. 
 
 Use for this soup the carcass of a cold roast turkey ; cut all 
 the scraps of meat from it, and mince them fine ; mince also 
 any bits of heart, liver, or gizzard v'lich may be available ; 
 put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the soup-kettle, and set it 
 over the fire to get smoking hot ; peel and slice an onion, 
 and when the butter is hot add the onion to it, together with 
 the minced turkey-meat and any cold stuffing on hand, and 
 let all these ingredients brown together; when they are 
 brown, stir among them two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 and let that brown ; then pour in four quarts of boiling water, 
 add two teaspoonfuls of salt and a level saltspoonful of pep- 
 per ; stir the soup thoroughly, put in the carcass of the tur- 
 key without breaking it, cover the soup-kettle, and let the 
 soup cook slowly for at least two hours ; then remove the 
 carcass of the turkey, and 'serve the soup hot with all 
 the other ingredients in it. A glass of wine poured into the 
 tureen containing the soup is a great addition to it when 
 the flavor of wine is liked ; but the soup is excellent without 
 it. 
 
176 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP. 
 
 Carefully pluck all the feathers from a fowl weighing about 
 four pounds ; singe off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper, 
 or a tablespoonful of alcohol poured on a plate and lighted 
 with a match ; then wipe the fowl with a wet towel, cut off 
 the head and feet,- and draw it without breaking the intes- 
 tines. If the fowl is carefully drawn, there will be no neces- 
 sity to wash it, and thus its flavor will be preserved. Peel 
 and slice a small onion, and fry it brown in the bottom of 
 the soup-kettle, with a tablespoonful of butter ; then put the 
 fowl into the soup-kettle, and turn it about until it is slightly 
 browned. Next pour over it four quarts of cold water, add 
 a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, 
 a head of celery washed in cold water and then cut in half- 
 inch dice, and one blade of mace. Cover the soup-kettle, 
 and let its contents boil slowly until the chicken is tender. 
 Meantime scald the head and feet of the fowl, scrape the 
 skin oif them, and cut off the beak and toes ; cut the neck 
 into half-inch pieces ; clean the gizzard and heart, and re- 
 move the gall from the side of the liver, and chop them in 
 small bits ; when all these parts of the fowl are prepared, 
 put them into a frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of 
 smoking hot butter, and fry them brown, then put them 
 into the soup-kettle ; pour a cupful of hot water into the 
 pan in which they were fried, stir it well about, and then 
 pour it into the soup. When the fowl is tender, take it out 
 of the soup, and use it as directed in the recipe for chicken 
 salad or for chicken croquettes; set the soup-kettle where 
 the rest of its contents will cook slowly until wanted for the 
 table, taking care to keep it closely covered to prevent 
 evaporation. When ready to use the soup, add to it two 
 tablespoonfuls of any good table sauce, and serve it without 
 straining it, after removing the head and feet. 
 
SOl/PS {potage). 
 
 177 
 
 pur]6e sieve. 
 The sieve shown in the accompanying cut is made of 
 perforated tin, or very strong wire netting, set in a stout 
 wooden frame, nearly in the centre. An ordinary flour- 
 sieve is not strong enough to permit the hard rubbing that 
 is required to force a puree or pulp through the sieve. A 
 
 Puree Sieue and Masher. 
 
 very fine colander will serve for the purpose of making ordi- 
 nary /«r^Vf/ especially the kind made with solid sides and 
 a bottom of perforated tin. 
 
 CHICKEN Aim RICE SOUP, OB POTAGE A LA BEINE. 
 
 To three quarts of clear chicken broth, add half a cup- 
 ful of rice, and boil it until the rice can be rubbed through 
 a sieve with a potato-masher; then return the broth and 
 rice to the saucepan, add enough hot milk to make them 
 the consistency of cream, season them palatably with salt, 
 
178 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 pepper, and nutmeg, and as soon as the soup is hot serve it, 
 as it grows too thick by standing. 
 
 CREAM OF ASPARAGUS. 
 
 When asparagus is used, the tough part of the stalks can 
 be boiled until they are tender enough for the pulp to be 
 rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher : a cupful of 
 the pulp will make a quart of soup if the directions here 
 given are followed. For a quart of soup, put in a saucepan 
 over the iire a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 
 stir them until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually 
 stir in a pint of milk, and enough of the >fater in which the 
 asparagus was boiled to make a soup about the consistency 
 of cream ; to this add a cupful of the asparagus pulp pre- 
 pared as directed above, stirring it smoothly with the soup ; 
 let it boil once, season it palatably with salt, white pepper, 
 and a very little grated nutmeg, and draw the saucepan to 
 the side of the fire, where its contents cannot boil; beat 
 the yolk of a raw egg to a cream with a little of the soup, 
 and then stir it with the rest of the soup, and serve it 
 at once ; if the soup boils after the egg is added, it will 
 curdle. 
 
 ONION SOUP. 
 
 Peel two of the large Valencia onions which are sold in the 
 fruit-stores, slice them, put them into a saucepan with four 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown the onions slightly over 
 a moderate fire ; meantime, peel and slice a large white 
 turnip, and wash and chop a head of celery; when the 
 onions are browned, add the turnip and celery, together 
 with two quarts of any broth from boiled meat, or one 
 quart each of milk and water; season the soup palatably 
 with salt and white pepper, and boil it gently untU the 
 vegetables are tender enough to rub through a sieve with 
 a potato-masher. The broth in which the vegetables are 
 
SOUPS {potage). 1 79 
 
 boiled is to be saved ; put a tablespoonful each of butter 
 and flour over the fire in the saucepan, and stir them until 
 they bubble ; then gradually stir in the broth and vegetable 
 pulp, see that the soup is palatably seasoned, let it boil for 
 a moment, and then serve it hot. 
 
 CELERY SOUP. 
 
 Pick over a cupful of rice, wash it in cold water, drain it, 
 and put it over the fire in three pints of boiling water ; wash 
 and cut in half-inch bits two cupfuls of the white stalks of 
 celery, add it to the rice, with a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 boil them together gently for an hour, taking care that there 
 is always water enough to prevent burning. Then rub the 
 rice and celery through a sieve with a potato-masher, re- 
 turn them to the saucepan in which they were boiled, set it 
 over the fire, add to them two quarts of hot milk, or 
 enough to make the soup about the consistency of thick 
 cream ; use a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper, 
 and a very little nutmeg, and stir the soup until it boils ; 
 then serve it at once. 
 
 CREAM OF FRESH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Carefully wash and peel a quart of fresh mushrooms, 
 boil them in a quart of boiling water until they are tender 
 enough to rub through a sieve with a potato-masher ; then 
 stir them into two quarts of cream soup made as directed 
 in any of the recipes for cream soup, or as follows : Put 
 into a thick saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of butter 
 and flour, and stir them together until they begin to bubble ; 
 then gradually stir in a quart each of hot milk and boiling 
 water, adding them to the butter and flour, half a cupful 
 at a time, and stirring this quantity in smoothly before 
 adding more. When the milk and water have been all used,- 
 season the soup palatably with salt, white pepper, and grated 
 
l8o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 nutmeg ; stir into it the puree or pulp of mushrooms, let it 
 boil once, and then serve it, 
 
 CREAM OF CAULIFLOWERS. 
 
 Trim the outer leaves from a fresh cauliflower, thoroughly 
 wash it in plenty of cold water, and lay it with the flowerets 
 down in a large pan of cold water containing a handful of 
 salt ; occasionally shake the- cauliflower about in the water, 
 to free it from the little insects which are lodged among the 
 flowerets. After it is quite clean, put it over the fire in a 
 large saucepan half full of salted boiling water, and boil it 
 steadily for twenty minutes, or until the stalk is tender 
 enough to be easily pierced with a fork, but do not boil it 
 long enough to cause the flowerets to break off. When the 
 cauliflower is tender, drain it, cut it apart in even-size 
 branches, and lay the finest ones in cold salted water ; put 
 the small ones and the stalk into a colander, and rub them 
 through it with a potato-masher j about a cupful of this 
 cauhflower puree will be required for two quarts of soup. 
 Next put two tablespoonfuls each of J)utter and flour over 
 the fire in a thick saucepan, and stir them until they bubble ; 
 next gradually stir in a quart of boiling water, and then a 
 quart of hot milk, adding them by degrees, and stirring the 
 soup constantly to insure its smoothness ; when all the 
 water and milk are used, season the soup with two level 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, 
 and a very little grated nutmeg ; mix the mashed cauliflower 
 into the soup, let it boil once, and serve it. If the soup is 
 not used as soon as it is done, place the saucepan contain- 
 ing it in a bain-marie, or a dripping-pan half full of boiling 
 water, and set the pan on the back of the fire, where the 
 soup will keep hot without burning ; if by standing, it grows 
 thicker than thick cream, thin it before using it with a little 
 hot milk, and add a very little more seasoning. 
 
SOUPS (POTAGE). 
 
 I8l 
 
 Directions for using the rest of the boiled cauliflower will 
 be found among the recipes for cooking vegetables. 
 
 BAIN-MARIE. 
 
 The bain-marie, or salt-water bath, is one of the greatest 
 of kitchen conveniences : it is a deep iron or copper pan, 
 partly filled with salted water, the temperature of which can 
 be raised higher than that of fresh water, and placed upon 
 the back of the fire, to contain saucepans whose contents 
 
 Bain-marie, or Salt-water Bath. 
 
 require heating without boiling; by increasing the heat, 
 cooking can be done in a bain-marie. Small saucepans or 
 tin pails are set in the wafer-bath to keep their contents hot 
 after they are ready for the table. A card placed upon the 
 handle of a saucepan indicates its contents without the 
 trouble of removing the cover. A primitive bain-marie 
 can be made with a dripping-pan and several small tin 
 pails, or even empty tin cans. Soups, sauces, vegetables, and 
 ragouts can be kept hot in this way without deteriorating. 
 
 TOMATO CREAM SOUP. 
 
 Peel and slice one quart of fresh tomatoes, or use a can 
 of tomatoes j pick over half a cupful of rice, and wash it 
 
1 82 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 well in cold water ; rub two tablespoonfuls of butter to a 
 smooth paste with one tablespoonful of flour; put the to- 
 matoes over the fire in a soup-kettle with one quart of cold 
 water, and let them heat gradually ; when they are hot, add 
 another quart of cold water, and when this boils, put in the 
 rice, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 and continue the boiling until the rice is tender, but not 
 broken ; then stir in the paste of butter and flour, a salt- 
 spoonful of soda, and a pint of milk, or enough to make the 
 soup as thick as cream ; let the soup boil for a few moments, 
 in order to thoroughly cook the flour, and then serve it at 
 once. 
 
 STRING-BEAN SOUP. 
 
 Remove the strings from a pint of beans, cut them in 
 small pieces, wash them in cold water, and then boil them 
 in salted boihng water until they are tender enough to rub 
 through a sieve with a potato-masher. After the beans are 
 prepared in this way, put over the fire in a clean saucepan 
 two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, and stir them 
 until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in two 
 quarts of boiling water ; when the white soup thus made is 
 boiling, put in the beans, prepared as already directed ; sea- 
 son the soup with two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a saltspoonful 
 of white pepper, and the least dust of cayenne pepper ; let 
 it boil once, and serve it. 
 
 GREEN-PEA SOUP. 
 
 Make this soup of small green peas and the broth in 
 which a chicken has been cooked. To prepare it, first care- 
 fully pick and singe a chicken, wipe it with a wet towel, (}raw 
 it without breaking the intestines, and truss it to keep it in 
 shape while boiling. Put it over the fire in a saucepan con- 
 taining sufficient boiling water to cover the chicken ; remove 
 all scum as it rises, and when the broth is clear add a table- 
 
SOUPS (potage). 183 
 
 spoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper ; cover 
 the saucepan closely, and simmer the chicken very slowly 
 until it is tender. Meantime shell a quart of green peas, boil 
 them tender in salted boihng water, then drain them and 
 put them in cold water ; mix to a smooth paste two table- 
 spoonfuls each of butter and flour. When the chicken is 
 tender, take it out of the broth ; reserve it for some other 
 dish ; drain the peas, and pour them into the broth with the 
 flour and butter, stirring the broth until the flour and butter 
 are dissolved in it, and adding a little water or milk if there 
 is not enough broth to make the soup of a creamy con- 
 sistency. As soon as the soup boils up, see that it is pala- 
 tably seasoned, and serve it. 
 
 OKRA SOUP WITH CRABS. 
 
 In early summer, green okra pods are abundant and 
 cheap, selling in the large markets at about thirty cents a 
 hundred. Okra is very nutritious, and deserves the attention 
 of housewives who wish to combine variety with economy 
 in serving their tables. 
 
 To make four quarts of soup, peel and slice two onions, 
 and fry them brown in two tablespoonfuls of sweet drippings 
 or butter ; fry with the onions a thin slice of ham, weighing 
 about a quarter of a pound, and a knuckle of veal chopped, 
 or about two pounds of any cheap cut of veal containing 
 plenty of bone ; while these ingredients are frying, wash two 
 dozen pods of okra in cold water, and slice them thin, 
 throwing away the stems ; when the onions and meat are 
 brown, add the okra to them, with four quarts of boiling 
 water, a small fresh green or red pepper chopped fine, and 
 a palatable seasoning of salt, and simmer the soup slowly 
 for two hours, keeping the pot covered. Meanwhile pick 
 all the meat from six boiled hard-shell crabs, and fry it 
 brown, with a small onion sliced, and a tablespoonful of 
 
1 84 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 butter, and i^eel and slice one dozen medium-sized toma- 
 toes. Four soft-shell crabs, fried in quarters, may be used 
 in place of the hard-shell crabs : add the fried crab-meat 
 and the sliced tomatoes to the soup at the end of two 
 hours, and let the soup simmer slowly for two hours longer, 
 keeping it closely covered to prevent evaporation. If, when 
 the time for cooking the soup has expired, it has boiled 
 away, add sufficient boiling water to increase it to four 
 quarts ; remove the bones and any pieces of meat which 
 have not boiled to shreds ; see if the seasoning is palatable, 
 and serve the soup hot. 
 
 OKRA SOUP WITH BEEF. 
 
 Make this soup according to the directions given in the 
 recipe for okra soup with crabs, substituting four pounds of 
 soup-beef for the veal and ham, and leaving out the crabs. 
 The beef must be taken out of the soup before serving it. 
 Sometimes two dozen fried oysters are added to the soup 
 just before sending it to the table. When green corn is 
 plentiful, a pint of it, cut from the cob, and half a pint of ^ 
 Lima beans, may be added to the soup half an hour before 
 it has finished cooking. 
 
 DRIED OKRA SOUP. 
 
 Pick over a quart of dried okra, wash it in cold water, 
 and soak it over night in two quarts of cold water : be sure 
 that the okra is tender, for if it is tough and full of woody 
 fibre it will be exceedingly unpalatable. The next morning, 
 pluck and singe a tender fowl weighing about three pounds, 
 draw it without breaking the intestines, wipe it with a wet 
 towel, cut it in small joints as for fricassee, and roll the pieces 
 in flour seasoned with pepper and salt. Put a saucepan 
 over the fire with half a cupful of lard, and when the fat is 
 hot put in the chicken, and fry it light-brown : when the 
 
SOUPS {potage). 185 
 
 chicken is brown, add to it the okra and the water in which 
 it has been soaking, together with enough more water to 
 make four quarts of soup ; season the soup palatably with 
 salt and pepper, and cook it gently until the chicken is ten- 
 der. Meantime remove all bits of shell from a solid quart 
 of large oysters, and strain their liquor ; rub to a fine pow- 
 der a tablespoonful of dried sassafras-leaves, sift the powder 
 through a very fine sieve, and put it into the soup : when 
 the chicken is tender, put in the oysters, together with their 
 liquor : let the soup again heat, and boil for two minutes, 
 and then serve it very hot. 
 
 In some of the large cities, a powder, made of sassafras 
 leaves and shoots, is sold under the name of gumbo filet: 
 when this is used, it is stirred into the soup at the moment 
 of serving, and no cover is placed upon the tureen, because 
 some cooks consider that it injures the soup to cover it. 
 
 HAM AND PEA SOUP. 
 
 For this soup use the bone of a ham which has been cut 
 out before cooking the ham, or one from a cooked ham ; 
 put it over the fire with three quarts of cold water and a 
 pint of dried peas which have been picked over and well 
 washed in cold water, and boil the soup slowly for six hours, 
 or until the peas are tender enough to be easily rubbed 
 through a sieve with a potato-masher. After putting the 
 soup through the sieve, return it to the fire to heat, leaving 
 out the ham-bone ; season it palatably with salt and pepper, 
 and then serve it with a plate of toast cut in half-inch dice, 
 or with small dice of stale bread fried in smoking hot fat, 
 and laid for a moment on brown paper to free them from 
 grease. 
 
 DRIED BEAN SOUP. 
 
 Wash one pound of dried beans in plenty of cold water, 
 pick out all the defective ones, and soak the beans over 
 
1 86 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 night in a quart of cold water : the next morning peel and 
 slice one onion, and fry it in the soup-kettle with one table- 
 spoonful of butter or sweet drippings ; while the onion is 
 browning, peel and slice one carrot and one turnip, and put 
 them with the onion ; add the soaked beans and four quarts 
 of cold water. Boil these ingredients very slowly for four 
 hours, or until they are tender enough to rub through a sieve 
 with a potato-masher : after rubbing them through the sieve, 
 return them to the soup-kettle, together with the broth in 
 which they were boiled, and place the kettle over the fire ; 
 rub to a smooth paste two tablespoonfuls each of butter and 
 flour, and stir this paste into the soup until it is entirely dis- 
 solved. Season the soup palatably with salt and pepper, let 
 it boil for one minute, and then serve it hot. Bread cut in 
 half-inch dice, and browned in the oven, makes a nice ac- 
 companiment for this soup. 
 
 Yellow split pease may be used in the same way for pease 
 soup. 
 
 TURTLE BEAN SOUP. 
 
 Pick over one pint of turtle beans (which are small, black, 
 dried beans), wash them in cold water, and then put them 
 into cold water to soak over night. At least four hours 
 before dinner put the beans over the fire in four quarts of 
 cold water, heat the water gradually to the boiling-point, 
 and boil the beans gently for about three hours, or until 
 they are tender enough to be rubbed through a sieve with 
 a potato-masher; when they are first set to boil, add to 
 them the following seasonings : one level teaspoonful of 
 dried marjoram leaves, two heaping teaspoonfuls of salt, one 
 saltspoonful of pepper, and one onion peeled and stuck 
 with a dozen cloves. While the beans are being boiled, 
 boil three eggs hard, remove the shells, cut the eggs in 
 small slices or dice, and put them into the soup-tureen; 
 just before serving the soup, slice a lemon, and place it in 
 
SOUPS 187 
 
 the tureen; when the beans are quite tender, rub them 
 through a sieve with a potato-masher, and return them to the 
 soup-kettle ; rub a tablespoonful each of butter and flour to 
 a smooth paste, stir them with ^e beans, add enough boihng 
 water to make the soup about the consistency of thick cream, 
 see that it is palatably seasoned, let it boil for two minutes, 
 and then serve it hot in the tureen, with the hard-boiled 
 egg and sliced lemon. A wineglassful of sherry or Madeira 
 added to two or three quarts of the soup will greatly improve 
 its flavor : the wine should not be boiled, only added to the 
 soup just before serving it. 
 
 OYSTER CREAM SOUP. 
 
 Carefully free a solid quart of oysters from all particles 
 of shell, and strain their liquor ; put the oysters over the fire 
 in their liquor, with enough water to make a quart of liquid, 
 and let them reach the boiling-point ; then rub the oysters 
 through a fine sieve with a potato-masher, moistening them 
 with the liquor, and keep them warm ; next put over the fire 
 in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, 
 and stir them until they bubble ; then add a quart of boiling 
 milk, gradually, stirring it quite smooth, and the oyster pulp 
 and liquor ; when these ingredients are smoothly blended, 
 if they are thicker than thick cream, add a little more boil- 
 ing milk, season the soup palatably with salt and pepper, 
 let it boil once, and then serve it with very small crackers 
 or with small fried crusts prepared as directed in the follow- 
 ing recipe. 
 
 FRIED CRUSTS FOR SOUP. 
 
 Cut thin slices of bread in small even dice, rejecting the 
 crust; put over the fire the frying-kettie half full of fat, 
 9nd when it begins to smoke throw in the crusts, and fry 
 them golden-brown ; take them out of the fat with a skim- 
 
1 88 PRACTICAL AMERICAN- COOKERY. 
 
 mer, lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them 
 from grease, and then use them for serving with soup. 
 
 OYSTER SOUP WITH EGGS. 
 
 Use for two quarts of soup one quart of oysters ; free 
 them from bits of shell, and drain them frofe their liquor ; 
 add to the liquor a pint of milk, and sufficient water to in- 
 crease the quantity to about two quarts ; place the milk and 
 oyster liquor over the fire, seasofi it with salt and white or 
 red pepper, let it boil for a moment, and remove any scum 
 that may rise ; meantime, beat four eggs smoothly with half 
 a pint of milk, and strain them ; after the scum has all been 
 removed from the soup, put into it the oysters and the eggs 
 and milk, and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken ; 
 do not let it boil, lest the eggs curdle ; as soon as it is 
 smooth and scalding hot, serve it. The oysters need so 
 litrie cooking that the heat of the scalding broth is sufficient 
 to do them properly. 
 
 SOFT CLAM sour WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Wash a pint of soft clams in two quarts of cold water 
 until they are perfectly free from sand, and then strain the 
 water through a towel fine enough, to retain the sand; cut 
 the hard part of the clams away from the soft portions, and 
 put the latter in a cool place until the soup is nearly done ; 
 chop the hard parts of the clams medium fine, put them into 
 a saucepan with the water in which they were washed, a 
 pint of canned or sliced tomatoes, an onion peeled and 
 sliced, a small red pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; 
 cook all these ingredients together very slowly for an hour, 
 and then strain them through a fine colander.- After the 
 soup has been strained, put it again over the fire, add to it 
 half a pint of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, four tabl§- 
 spoonfuls of finely powdered Cracker-dust, and the soft 
 
SOUPS. 189 
 
 portions of the clams, and stir it constantly until it boils ; 
 let it boil for a minute, see that it is palatably seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, and then serve it hot. 
 
 CREAM OF FLUKE. 
 
 The fluke is a large, white-fleshed fish, resembling the 
 flounder in general appearance. Its flesh is firm and sweet, 
 and in its season its price is very reasonable. As several 
 dishes can be made from one fish, the reader's attention is 
 called to the fish recipes which are given elsewhere. 
 
 To prepare the fish for the soup, cut one-fourth of the 
 flesh away from the bone and skin, reserving the rest for 
 other dishes, and boil it, putting it over the fire in boiling 
 salted water, and cooking it until the flakes begin to sepa- 
 rate. Then drain it, and rub it through a sieve with a 
 potato-masher. Allow one cupful of fish for each quart of 
 soup. 
 
 To make two quarts of soup, put two tablespoonfuls each 
 of butter and flour into a saucepan, and set it over a gentle 
 fire ; stir constandy until the butter and. flour are smoothly 
 blended, then gradually stir in two quarts of hot milk, add- 
 ing half a cupful at a time, and stirring it smooth before 
 putting in more. When all the milk is mixed with the flour 
 and butter, season the soup with two teaspoonfuls of salt 
 and quarter of a salt-spoonful each of white pepper and 
 grated nutmeg. Next, put in the fish, and stir the soup 
 with an egg-whip until it boils ; then serve it hot. Any 
 white-fleshed fish can be used in this way. 
 
 CRAYFISH SOUP OR BISQUE. 
 
 Wash fifty hve crayfish in plenty of cold water, and put 
 them head first into four quarts of boiling water with a 
 tablespoonful of salt, a carrot scraped and sUced, one turnip 
 and one onion peeled and sliced, one small sprig of parsley 
 
igO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 with the root attached, a red pepper, and a dozen whole 
 cloves ; boil all these ingredients together for twenty min- 
 utes ; then take out the crayfish, and continue to boil the 
 soup as before ; as soon as the crayfish can be handled, 
 break the tails away from the bodies ; remove the flesh of the 
 tails entire, and put it by to use presently ; put the shells 
 of the tails and the bodies of the crayfish in a mortar, and 
 crush them, and then put them into the soup, and con- 
 tinue boiling it for an hour ; reserve the flesh of the tails to 
 put into the soup just before serving it. When the soup has 
 boiled an hour, strain it, pressing the vegetables and crayfish 
 shells with a wooden spoon in a fine sieve to extract all 
 possible color and flavor. Next, mix together over the fire 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour until 
 they are smoothly blended, and gradually add to them the 
 strained soup, stirring constantly to prevent the formation 
 of lumps ; when all the soup has been stirred in, add a gill 
 of cream and half a pint of white wine, put in the crayfish 
 tails, see that the soup is palatably seasoned with salt and 
 cayenne, and serve it at once. 
 
 BISQUE OF PRAWNS. 
 
 Put a hundred prawns into two quarts of boiling water, 
 after first washing them in plenty of cold water, and boil 
 them until the shells turn red ; meantime, wash two pounds 
 of eels in cold water, cut them in inch pieces, and put them 
 over the fire in sufficient cold water to cover them, together 
 with a gill of vinegar, a level teaspoonful of whole pepper- 
 corns, a blade of mace, an onion peeled and stuck with a 
 dozen whole cloves, a sprig of any sweet herb except sage, 
 a small sprig of parsley with root attached, a stalk of celery, 
 and a level tablespoonful of salt ; as soon as the prawns are 
 red, put the pot-liquor in which they were boiled with the 
 above-named ingredients, and then take the prawns from th? 
 
SOUPS. 191 
 
 shells ; put the flesh of the prawns aside until the soup 
 is nearly done, add the shells to the other ingredients, cover 
 the soup-kettle, and boil until they are reduced to a pulp ; 
 then strain the soup through a towel laid in a colander; 
 put two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour in a sauce- 
 pan, and stir them over the fire until they bubble; then 
 gradually stir in the strained soup, about half a cupful at a 
 time, until a creamy soup is made ; add the flesh of the 
 prawns to this, season it palatably, put with it about a gill of 
 Sauterne, let it heat to the boiling-point, and then serve it 
 hot. If prawns are not plentiful, some lobster flesh may be 
 shredded and used for the soup. 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP. 
 
 Plunge a large lobster, or two of medium size, into a large 
 pot half full of boiling salted water, and boil it until the shell 
 is quite red ; then take it from the water, cool it until it can 
 be handled, and remove the flesh from the shell, rejecting 
 the soft fins which lie close to the body under the legs, the 
 stomach, which is enclosed in a rather hard membrane back 
 of the eyes, and the intestine which runs down the middle of 
 the tail, and saving all the coral and green fat; cut the 
 flesh of the lobster in small pieces ; put over the fire a sauce- 
 pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls each of butter 
 and flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually 
 add three quarts of boiling water, stirring it until the soup 
 is very smooth ; then add the lobster, prepared as already 
 directed, season the soup rather highly with salt and red 
 pepper, let it boil for two or three minutes, and then serve 
 it hot. 
 
 CRAB SOUP. 
 
 For two quarts of soup use a cupful or half a pint of crab 
 meat, removed from the shell, or canned crab meat ; put in 
 a saucepan over the fire two tablespoonfuls each of butter 
 
192 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and flour, and stir them together until they are smocthly 
 mixed ; then stir in gradually one quart each of hot milk and 
 water, making the soup perfectly smooth by stirring it ; sea- 
 son the soup rather highly with salt, white pepper, and cay- 
 enne \ put in the crab meat and one glass of sherry ; let the 
 soup boil once after adding the crab meat, and then serve it. 
 
 TERRAPIN CLEAR SOUP. 
 
 Refer to the recipes for cooking terrapin ; save the water 
 used in boiling the terrapin, and after they are dressed put 
 their shells, broken up, into the water, and boil them for six 
 hours; then add enough stock of bouillon ox consomme to 
 doubly cover them, and again boil them until they begin 
 to soften. After that cool and clarify the broth thus made, 
 season with salt, cayenne, and Madeira, and serve it clear. 
 
 HOW TO KILL GREEN TURTLE. 
 
 The large size of a green turtle often makes its use incon- 
 venient in a private family ; but if the fish-dealer kills it and 
 
 Breen Turtle; the Calipash or Upper Shell. 
 
 cuts it up, it may be divided among several, at a proportion- 
 ate cost which will be comparatively small. A turtle is 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 193 
 
 killed by cutting the throat or cutting off the head, after first 
 tying the fins to prevent struggling, and then hanging its 
 head downward, or laying it upon a table, with a tub under 
 the head to catch the blood : it is allowed to remain over 
 night, and the blood is saved for making sauces for the dif- 
 ferent dishes of turde. 
 
 In the morning lay the turtle on its back, cut off the under 
 shell without cutting into the intestines, and carefully re- 
 
 Qreen Turtle being bled; the Calipee or Under Shell. 
 
 move the eggs and liver ; the gall, which is a dark green bag 
 embedded in the liver, must be very carefully cut out without 
 breaking it, because a drop of the bitter fluid would ruin any 
 part of the turtle with which it might come in contact ; after 
 the gall is removed, the liver is to be laid in cold water, as 
 are aU the different portions of the turtle, as soon as they are 
 cut off the shell ; the under shell should be cut in pieces 
 about four inches square, and divided with the flesh of the 
 turtle, because, after long-continued boiling, parts of it be- 
 come the semi-gelatinous substance called by many cooks 
 
194 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the green fat ; the green fat proper is a soft substance, dark 
 bluish-green in color, which lies about the intestines and in 
 the sockets of the legs where they join the body ; it is abun- 
 dant when turtles are in good condition, and should be im- 
 partially divided, as it is considered a great delicacy; the 
 upper shell is to be cut up to boil with the turtle to make 
 stock. The liver, eggs, and green fat are to be kept in cold 
 water until the soup-stock is being prepared, then boiled in 
 it until tender, and afterward wrapped in a wet cloth until 
 they are wanted for the various dishes made of the turtle. 
 
 HOW TO BOIL GREEN TURTLE. 
 
 For every four pounds of turtle flesh and shell allow a 
 gallon of cold water ; put them over the fire together with an 
 even weight of veal bones, or of calf s head or feet, a table- 
 spoonful of salt, and one carrot, one turnip, one onion 
 peeled and stuck with a dozen cloves, and a bouquet of 
 parsley, sweet herbs, mace, and peppercorns ; remove all 
 scum as it rises, keep the kettle closely covered, and boil its 
 contents gently ; as fast as any portion of the turtle becomes 
 tender, take it up, cool it, wrap it in a wet cloth, and put 
 it in a cool place until it is wanted for making any of the 
 dishes for which recipes are given. Continue to boil the 
 bones and shells for five or six hours ; and then strain 
 the stock, and put it by for the soup and sauces. The dark 
 under shell is to be boiled until tender, and then saved for 
 the soup, to which it is added after being cut in half-inch 
 dice. 
 
 GREEN TURTLE SOUP-STOCK. 
 
 Prepare the turtle as directed in the two preceding re- 
 cipes. To make the stock for the soup, put the pieces of 
 shell over the fire with sufficient boiling water to cover them, 
 and boil them for two or three hours, or until the outer edges 
 of the shell are soft ; if the water boils away, add more, 
 
SOUPS. 195 
 
 always keeping the shells covered. Then cut the soft parts 
 of the shells into pieces about half an inch square, lay them 
 in an earthen bowl, cover them with a wet napkin, and keep 
 tliem in a cool place until wanted. Then put the hard parts 
 of the shell again into the water in which it was boiled ; put 
 in also one-eighth of the first weight of the turde in soup- 
 beef bones, and one-sixteenth of the weight in the bones of 
 veal, or of calf s feet and head cleaned as directed in the 
 recipe for skinning calf s head for mock turde soup. On 
 top of these ingredients lay the neck and fins of the turtle, 
 and the cushions or rounded muscles at the top of the turtle 
 fins, unless part of the latter is to be reserved raw for broil- 
 ing as turtle steaks-; add sufficient water to cover all, and 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt, and let all boil gently for 
 about two hours, or until the bones of the fins separate easily 
 from the flesh ; remove any scum which may rise, and keep 
 the soup-kettle closely covered. 
 
 When the fins and cushions are tender, take them out of the 
 stock, separate the flesh from the bones, keeping it in good- 
 sized pieces, and put it aside in a cool place until wanted, in 
 an earthen vessel covered with a wet napkin. Then return 
 the bones to the stock ; add to it the proportions usually 
 employed for soup-stock, of carrots, turnips, onions, parsley, 
 sweet herbs, whole cloves, mace, and peppercorns, and boil 
 it gently for five hours, keeping it closely covered. In the 
 stock, boil the liver, eggs, fat, and intestines after they are 
 soaked in cold water ; the intestines being turned outward like 
 a reversed glove-finger, and thoroughly scraped and washed. 
 
 When the stock is boiled, it should be strained until clear, 
 through a folded towel laid in a colander set over a large 
 earthen bowl. All those parts of the turtle which have been 
 cooked and covered with wet napkins should now be placed 
 in bowls, and covered with the strained turtle stock ; all of 
 the stock remaining should be saved for soup. 
 
1 96 PR A CTICAL AMERICAN COOKER K 
 
 GREEN TURTLE THICK SOUP. 
 
 For each quart of soup brown together, by stirring over 
 the fire, one tablespoonful each of butter and iiour ; when 
 the butter and flour are brown, gradually add the strained 
 turtle stock, stirring constantly untiL the soup is smooth ; 
 season it palatably with salt and cayenne pepper; add to 
 each quart about half a dozen pieces of green fat, half a cup- 
 ful each of the tender parts of the shell and the flesh of the 
 turtle cut in inch bits, half a cupful of egg-balls or a few of 
 the turrie eggs, and a dozen forcemeat balls if they are de^ 
 sired ; let the soup boil once ; then add to each quart a wine- 
 glassful of good Madeira, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and 
 half a dozen thin slices of lemon, and serve it at once. 
 
 EGG-BALLS FOB SOUP. 
 
 Boil one egg hard, separate the yolk from the white, and 
 break the yolk very fine with a fork ; add to the boiled yolk 
 the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, a dust of 
 cayenne, a small half salt-spoonful of salt, and enough flour 
 to permit the paste to be rolled between the palms of the 
 hands in little balls, the hands being slightly floured. When 
 all the egg-balls are made, put them into a saucepan half full 
 of salted boiling water, and boil them until they float upon 
 the surface of the water ; then take them out of the boiling 
 water with a skimmer, put them into the soup, and serve it. 
 
 FORCEMEAT-BALLS FOB SOUP. 
 
 Mince very fine half a cupful of cold chicken, and then 
 rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon ; boil two eggs 
 hard, and rub the yolks through the sieve in the same way ; 
 mix with the chicken and hard yolks the yolk of a raw egg, 
 a little salt and pepper, and flour enough to make a paste 
 which can be rolled into little oval balls between the palms 
 
SOUPS (potage). 197 
 
 of the hands ; poach the balls in salted boiling water until 
 they float, and then use them in hot soup. 
 
 GREEN TURTLE CLEAR SOUP. 
 
 Proceed as follows to clarify turtle soup-stock made as 
 already directed : For each quart of stock to be clarified 
 allow the white and shell of one raw egg, and one table- 
 spoonful of cold water; mix the shell, white of egg, and 
 water slightly in the bottom of a saucepan ; pour the cold 
 stock on them, and set the saucepan over the fire ; let its 
 contents slowly reach the boiling-point, stirring them several 
 times to prevent the egg sticking to the bottom of the sauce- 
 pan ; let the soup boil gently until the egg rises to the sur- 
 face in the form of a thick scum, and the soup appears quite 
 clear under it ; then strain it through a folded towel laid in a 
 colander, allowing it to run slowly through without squeezing 
 the towel ; if it has grown cool in straining, heat it again, see 
 that it is palatably seasoned, and serve it hot with lemon and 
 wine, as directed in the recipe for green turtle thick soup. 
 The green fat of the turtle, cooked as directed in the recipe 
 for killing a green turtle, is to be heated in boiling water and 
 served in the turtle clear soup.- If there is no fat, use in its 
 place some of the soft parts of the shell boiled very soft. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 FISH AND SHELLFISH {I'aisson). , 
 
 THE shellfish suitable for the first dinner service, befort 
 the soup, have already been mentioned ; the rest which 
 are included in this chapter belong properly among the 
 entrees, together with the fried, broiled, and scalloped fish. 
 Only boiled and baked fish are appropriate for formal Eng- 
 lish dinners ; frequently the small hot dishes of fried and 
 broiled fish are served at little dinners, as well as at break- 
 fasts, luncheons, and suppers. The service of small fish 
 dishes is essentially Continental, and is both convenient and 
 economical. Terrapin and green turtle are included in this 
 chapter, although they are distinctive enough to be made a 
 separate course at dinner. Madeira is the proper wine for 
 terrapin, and punch is served with green turtle. The limited 
 space for recipes in this volume does not admit of the possi- 
 ble variety in this chapter, any more than in the others ; but 
 here, as elsewhere, a sufficient number are given to indicate 
 the great diversity of treatment which food may receive. 
 The directions given for boning, boiling, frying, broiling, or 
 baking any one kind of fish may be applied to any other 
 which has the same general characteristics of size and tex- 
 ture. The very dry-fleshed fish should be served with a 
 sauce : fish which are either watery or very oily are best 
 when cooked with direct exposure to the fire, as in broiling. 
 
F/Sff AND SHELLFISH {PO/SSON). 1 99 
 
 These hints will serve as guides for more extended practice 
 in the cookery of fish. 
 
 HOW TO THAW FROZEN FISH, 
 
 So much naturally frozen or refrigerated fish is used, that 
 some directions concerning it may prove useful. When the 
 fish is taken from the ice, put it into a large tub of cold 
 water, and let it remain until the flesh is flexible enough to 
 cut ; when the fish is so far freed from frost as to permit a 
 cut to be made for drawing the intestines, remove them, and 
 put the fish again in the cold water until every particle of 
 frost is extracted, and the fish is perfectly flexible ; then drain 
 it, and wipe it dry ; cook it according to any chosen recipe. 
 
 LARGE FISH BOILED IN SLICES. 
 
 When it is desired to serve an unusually large fish, and the 
 faciUties for cooking are limited, the fish may be cut in many 
 slices, as shown in the accompanying engraving, carefully 
 
 Large Fish boiled in Siices, 
 
 boiled, either in a cloth or on the drainer of the fish-ketde, 
 and then so placed upon the dish as to restore the form of 
 the fish. This engraving is copied from Dubois, and repre- 
 sents a sterlet, or small Russian sturgeon. Large salmon, 
 pike, pickerel, or muscalonge, among American fish, may be 
 dressed in this way. The garnish of the sterlet here shown 
 is button mushrooms, truffles, and turned vegetables. Part 
 of a sturgeon may be boiled in slices in tliis way. 
 
200 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY, 
 
 BOILED TURBOT WITH LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 The thick gelatinous fins and skin of turbot, and the thick 
 slices of flesh from the middle of the back, are the parts 
 most esteemed by epicures ; and therefore in dressing turbot 
 the fins must be retained. Wash the fish thoroughly, using 
 plenty of coarse salt to remove the slime which clings to it 
 as it does to blackfish, and rinse it in plenty of cold water ; 
 remove the intestines, and again wash the fish ; then put it 
 over the fire in a large kettle, with enough salted cold water 
 to entirely cover it, and let the turbot boil gently about 
 twenty minutes, or until the flesh begins to separate from 
 the bones; the fish must not be overdone. When it is 
 .cooked, take it up carefully, garnish it witli parsley or lob- 
 ster, as shown in the cuts which refer to carving it, and 
 serve it with lobster sauce. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE. ' 
 
 To make lobster sauce, boil a lobster as directed in the 
 recipe for boiled lobster, and remove it from the shell ; rub 
 the coral through a sieve with a potato-masher, and mix it 
 with an equal quantity of butter ; for a pint of sauce put a 
 tablespoonful each of butter and flour over the fire in a thick 
 saucepan, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually 
 stir in half a pint each of milk and water ; season the sauce, 
 with salt and cayenne, color it with the lobster butter, put 
 in a cupful of lobster cut in half-inch pieces, and, as soon as 
 the sauce boils, serve it with the turbot. 
 
 BOILED HALIBUT. 
 
 Halibut is an excellent fish for boiling and baking in thick ■ 
 slices ; the flesh is firm enough to retain its shape, and its 
 flavor assimilates palatably with any fish-sauce. After wash- 
 ing the halibut in plenty of cold water, put it over the fire in 
 
FISff AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 20I 
 
 cold salted water, boil it until the flakes begin to separate, 
 and then drain it, and serve it with any good sauce. 
 
 FRIED HALIBUT. 
 
 To fry two pounds of halibut, iirst slice half a pound of 
 fat salt pork, and fry it slowly in a large frying-pan until it is 
 light brown ; then take it up, and keep it hot while the haU- 
 but is being fried. Wash the fish in cold salted water, dry 
 it on a clean cloth, cover it on both sides with Indian meal 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry it brown on both 
 sides in the pork- drippings. Serve the pork with the halibut. 
 A very nice gravy may be made for the dish by pouring 
 nearly all the fat out of the frjdng-pan, after the fish is done, 
 and putting in it a pint of milk mixed smoothly with a level 
 tablespoonful of flour ; season the gravy palatably with salt 
 and pepper, stir it constantly until it boils for one minute, 
 and then send it in a bowl to the table with the fried halibut. 
 Halibut is a good fish for broiling in sHces, according to any 
 of the recipes given for broiled fish. 
 
 FLUKE BONED AND BAKED. 
 
 Thoroughly wash the fish in cold water, lay it on its side 
 on the table, and with a sharp, thin-bladed knife make a 
 straight cut from the middle of the head, down the side, to 
 the middle of the tail, cutting through the flesh down to the 
 bone ; then, with the point of the knife, begin to cut the 
 flesh from the bone at the head, lifting it with the left hand 
 as it is cut, so that the edge of the knife may not mangle it, 
 and keeping the knife laid flat and close to the bone until 
 the flesh is cut outward to the fins, and free from the bone 
 from the head to the tail ; then cut it off" along the line of 
 the fins ; this will give one-fourth of the flesh of the fish in 
 the form of a long, narrow strip ; cut off the remaining 
 three-fourths in the same manner, and lay the strips, skin 
 
202 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 down, upon the table. To remove the skin, hold the tail 
 end of one of the strips firmly with the left hand ; take the 
 knife in the right hand, and cut down through the flesh of 
 the strip at the end nearest the left hand, until the skin is 
 reached, but do not cut through the skin. When the edge 
 of the knife reaches the skin, begin slowly to turn the knife 
 with the edge outward until the blade lies flat on the skin 
 and against the table ; keep the knife in this position, and 
 cut toward the upper end of the strip, taking care neither to 
 turn the edge of the knife upward, as that would send it 
 into the flesh, nor downward, because that would make it cut 
 through the skin. If these directions are carefully followed, 
 the skin can be removed from the flesh without any waste. 
 After the skin is taken off, cut the strips of fish in pieces of 
 even size, about two inches wide and five inches long. 
 
 Roll up as many of these pieces as are desired, making 
 a little compact roll of each one, and place them side by 
 side in an earthen dish which will just contain them ; season, 
 them highly with salt and pepper, put a bit of butter about 
 half an inch square on each one, and bake them in a hot 
 oven until the flakes begin to separate ; then serve them at 
 once in the dish in which they were baked. Fluke is good 
 either fried or broiled. 
 
 These directions will serve as a guide in boning any kind 
 of fresh fish. Fish which has been frozen cannot be boned 
 easily, because the flakes are apt to break apart upon the least 
 pressure. 
 
 BLUEFJSH BAKED WHOLE. 
 
 Choose a medium-sized bluefish ; have it drawn from the 
 gills to avoid splitting it ; wash it in cold salted water, and 
 stuff it with the following forcemeat : Soak a pint of stale, 
 bread in cold water, and squeeze out the water when the 
 bread is soft ; meanwhile chop fine a small onion, two table- 
 spoonfuls of parsley, and a teaspoonful of fresh thyme, savory, 
 
FISff AND SHELLFISH (PO/SSOJV). 203 
 
 or sweet marjoram ; put these ingredients into a frying-pan 
 with a tablespoonful of butter and the soaked bread, and 
 stir them over the fire until they are smoking-hot. Use this 
 forcemeat for stuffing the fish. On the bottom of a dripping- 
 pan put half a pound of salt pork, cut in slices ;. lay the fish 
 on the pork, season it highly with salt and pepper, and put 
 it into a hot oven to bake. Let it cook until it is nicely 
 browned, and the skin begins to crack ; a medium-sized fish 
 will cook in about an hour. Change the fish from the pan 
 to a hot platter, lay the pork on it, and serve it as soon as it 
 is done. 
 
 Bluefish is excellent either fried or broiled. 
 
 SLICES or FISH BOILED. 
 
 When a fish is very large, like bluefish, pike, or salmon, and 
 not all is required, portions of it may be boiled in slices of 
 different sizes, and then served. The slices shown in the 
 accompanying picture are about two inches thick ; they can 
 
 Slices of Fish Boiled. 
 
 be laid upon the drainer of a fish-kettle to boil, or wrapped 
 separately in pieces of cloth, and then boiled ; care must be 
 taken to keep them intact, for if they are broken the beauty 
 of the dish is greatly impaired. After the slices of fish are 
 boiled, they may be served upon a napkin, on a bed of 
 
204 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY, 
 
 parsley, with some small balls cut from potatoes and boiled, 
 or with any garnish preferred, and sent to the table with 
 any chosen fish-sauce. The larger portions of a cut fish are 
 called, in the French cookery-books, a dame and a tron- 
 (on, as shown in engravings subsequently given. 
 
 SHRIMP OB PBAWN SAUCE. 
 
 Either of these sauces is excellent for boiled fish. Both 
 shrimp and prawns are now marketed already boiled, and 
 very good prawns are sent from the South in cans ; the fish 
 may be used in any of these forms, and are simply added to 
 a good white sauce, just before serving it, in the proportion 
 of a cupful of dressed shrimp or prawns to a quart of white 
 sauce. 
 
 When fresh shrimp or prawns are used, they are to be 
 freed from bits of sea-grass or weed which may have been 
 used in packing them for transportation, and then boiled in 
 plenty of salted boiling water until the shells turn red. After 
 the fish are boiled, the flesh of the tails is taken from the 
 shells, and it is then ready for use. 
 
 • 
 
 WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 For a quart of white sauce, stir together over the fire two 
 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour until they begin to 
 bubble ; then gradually stir in a quart of boiling water, and 
 a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper; stir the 
 sauce until it boils, and then serve it. Substituting milk or 
 cream for part of the boiling water makes cream sauce. 
 Usually a very little nutmeg is employed in the seasoning of 
 cream sauce. 
 
 BOILED PIKE WITH CAPER SAUCE. 
 
 Thoroughly clean a pike, drawing the intestines from a 
 small cut near the gills to avoid splitting the fish ; fasten the 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH (POISSON). 20S 
 
 head and tail of the fish together so that it forms a circle, 
 and then lay it on the drainer of a fish-kettle, or tie it in a 
 cloth if it is to be boiled in an ordinary saucepan \ cover the 
 fish with cold water, add half a cupful each of salt and vine- 
 gar, place the kettle over the fire, and boil the fish gently until 
 a fin can be easily pulled out ; then dish it without break- 
 ing it, and serve it with a bowl of caper sauce, which is to 
 be made while the fish is being boiled. 
 
 CAFER SAUCE. 
 
 Make a pint of white sauce, and let it boil for two min- 
 utes ; chop two tablespoonfuls of capers a few times, or use 
 them whole ; after the sauce has boiled, add the capers, 
 together with a palatable seasoning of salt and white pepper, 
 and then use the sauce. 
 
 PIKE. 
 
 Pike is one of the best fish for frying in slices. It is also 
 excellent when broiled. 
 
 PICKEREL. 
 
 Pickerel may be cooked like pike, by boiling, frying, broil- 
 ing, or baking. 
 
 FRIED BLACKFISH. 
 
 Clean the blackfish by putting it into cold water after it is 
 scaled, and rubbing it thoroughly with a handful of salt; 
 draw the intestines from the gills, and then again wash the 
 fish in cold water ; have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat 
 over the fire, and a plateful of Indian meal seasoned with 
 salt and pepper ; cut the fish across in slices about an inch 
 thick, trim off the fins and tail, roll the slices in the meal, 
 and then fry them brown in the hot fat ; when the fish is 
 done, take it out of the fat'with a skimmer; lay it on brown 
 paper for a moment to free it from grease, and then serve it 
 hot. A lemon, cut in quarters, makes a good garnish foi 
 fried fish. 
 
206 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 LARDED FISB. 
 
 Sometimes fish are larded for baking, as shown in the en- 
 graving in the chapter on Carving. A large piece of the 
 skin is removed from the back of the fish, and lardoons are 
 inserted as directed in the recipe for lax&mg fricandeaux of 
 veal ; the fish is sometimes stuffed, and generally served 
 with a brown mushroom sauce. The lardoons are pro- 
 tected by buttered paper until the fish is nearly done ; then 
 the paper is removed to permit them to brown ; the larded 
 fish is served hot. 
 
 FRIED COD AND HADDOCK. 
 
 Use equal parts of fresh codfish and haddock ; after the 
 fish has been scaled and drawn, split it down the back, cut 
 out the backbone, cut the fish in pieces about two inches 
 square, season it with salt and pepper, and roll it in Indian 
 meal ; for three or four pounds of fish, slice a quarter of a 
 pound of salt pork; put the pork into a frying-pan, and 
 brown it ; lay the fried pork on a hot dish, and keep it hot ; 
 if the pork has not yielded sufficient drippings, put enough 
 lard into Jhe pan to cover the bottom to the depth of half 
 an inch ; set the pan over the fire, and when the fat is smok- 
 ing hot put in the fish, and brown it on both sides ; then 
 serve it with the fried pork. 
 
 Either cod or haddock is excellent boiled or baked. 
 
 TRONCON OF FISH. 
 
 A tronqon of fish is a large piece cut from the middle of 
 a large fish, such as cod, salmon, or sturgeon ; it is usually 
 boiled, being laid upon the drainer of the fish-kettle, or tied 
 in a cloth, to preserve its form. A trongon of boiled salmon 
 may be served with any preferred sauce ; cucumber, shrimp, 
 a id anchovy are among the best fish-sauces. The fish may 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 20/ 
 
 be laid upon a folded napkin or a bed of parsley. The cuts 
 in the side of the fronton are simply scores made to keep 
 the skin from breaking unevenly during cooking. 
 
 Tronoon, or Middle Cut, of Fish. 
 BOILED BASS. 
 
 Have the fish carefully scaled, and the entrails removed 
 at the gills ; wash it in cold water, and put it into a saucepan 
 with sufficient cold water to cover it, and two tablespoonfuls 
 of salt ; set the saucepan over the fire, and let its contents 
 reach the boiling-point, and boil slowly for about five min- 
 utes ; then try to pull out one of the fins ; if it separates 
 readily from the body, take the fish out of the water without 
 breaking it, lay it on a napkin folded on a platter, surround 
 it with half a dozen hard-boiled eggs without the shells, and 
 it serve it with a sauce made as follows : — 
 
 BOT MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 While the fish is being boiled, mix together over the fire 
 a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, gradually stir into 
 them .a pint of boiling water, a level teaspoonful of made 
 mustard, a tablespoonful of chopped pickles or capers, a 
 saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
 per ; stir the sauce until it boils for two minutes, and then it 
 will be ready to use with the fish. Meantime boil six eggs 
 
208 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 quite hard, remove the shells without breaking the eggs, cut 
 them in quarters, and use them for garnishing the fish. 
 When eggs are high-priced, use only two ; boil them hard, 
 chop them, and sprinkle them on top of the fish. 
 
 BASS. 
 
 Bass is excellent for baking, frying, or broiling. Any of 
 the recipes for cooking large fish will serve for preparing 
 bass. 
 
 BOILED SHEEPS-HEAD. 
 
 Thoroughly clean and wash the fish, rub it all over with 
 dry salt, and soak it in cold water for an hour ; then remove 
 it from the water, wipe it dry, score it several times across 
 both sides, and rub it with a lemon cut in halves ; lay the 
 sheeps-head thus prepared on the drainer of a fish-kettle, or 
 place it in an ordinary kettle after tying it in a cloth ; cover 
 the fish with cold water and milk equally mixed, add a level 
 tablespoonful of salt, and let the fish gradually ■ boil, and 
 then gently simmer for half an hour. 
 
 In dishing the fish, be very careful to transfer it from the 
 kettle to a platter without breaking it ; pour a little of the 
 «auce around the sheeps-head on the dish. 
 
 Sheeps-head are very good either fried or baked. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Put in a saucepan over the fire four tablespoonfuls 
 of butter and two of flour, and stir them until they are 
 smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint of cream 
 or rich milk, a saltspoonful of powdered mace,- quarter of 
 a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne, and a 
 level teaspoonful of salt ; let the sauce boil for two or three 
 minutes, and serve it with the boiled sheeps-head. A cupful 
 of chopped boiled lobster is sometimes added to this sauce, 
 or the grated coral of a lobster. 
 
fISff AND SHELLFISH (POISSON). 209 
 
 REDSNAPPER. 
 
 This favorite Southern fish, now so common on the Eastern 
 seaboard, may be boiled or baked. 
 
 VTHITEFISH. 
 
 The large and fine whitefish of the great Western lakes is 
 excellent either boiled, baked, or broiled. 
 
 DARNE OF SALMON. 
 
 A dame of fish is a very thick slice of the middle portion ; 
 its shape is preserved during boiling by wrapping it in a 
 
 Dame, or Thick Slice, of Salmon. 
 
 cloth, or laying it on the drainer of a fish-kettle. After the 
 fish is boiled, it may be used hot, with a garnish of parsley 
 and any chosen sauce ; or may be cooled, and masked or 
 covered with meat-jelly, or any such cold thick sauce as 
 mayonnaise, or Dutch sauce. A second sauce of contrasting 
 color can be used for special ornamentation ; for instance, 
 the dame of salmon shown in the illustration may be 
 masked with mayonnaise, and the figures then laid on with 
 lobster-coral smoothly mixed with a little mayonnaise; the 
 little cubes are cut out of aspic jelly. The shellfish laid upon 
 the dame may be a small boiled lobster or a large crayfish ; 
 
2IO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY., 
 
 a bunch of fine parsley or watercress may replace the shell 
 fish when it is out of season. 
 
 BOILED SALMON. 
 
 Wash two pounds of fresh salmon in plenty of cold 
 water ; put it over the fire in plenty of boiling salted water, 
 and boil it rapidly until the flakes begin to separate ; then 
 drain it, and serve it with a white sauce made by mixing 
 together over the fire one tablespoonful each of butter and 
 flour until they bubble, and then gradually stirring in a pint 
 of boiling water. Stir the sauce until it boils, season it palat- 
 ably with salt and pepper, and then serve it with the boiled 
 salmon. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
 
 A teaspoonful of anchovy paste mixed with the white 
 sauce will make anchovy sauce, which is an excellent ac- 
 companiment for boiled salmon. 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 Fresh green peas boiled make a good garnish for boiled 
 salmon. 
 
 A middle cut of salmon is excellent baked. 
 
 Slices of salmon may be fried plain, breaded, or rolled in 
 flour, or broiled plain. 
 
 FRESH MACKEREL FRIEB. 
 
 Have ready on the fire a dripping-pan containing hot fat 
 half an inch deep ; have two or three medium-sized fresh 
 mackerel drawn at the gills, but not split; wash them in 
 cold salted water, dry them on a clean cloth, and score 
 them to the bone on both sides, making the cuts about two 
 inches apart ; season them with salt and pepper, and quickly 
 brown them on both sides in the hot fat; while they are 
 being fried, chop finely a small onion and about two table- 
 
FIS/I AND SHELLFISH (PO/SSOJV) 211 
 
 spoonfuls of parsley, and put them over the fish. When the 
 fish are done, serve them on a hot platter with the parsley 
 and onion, and a teaspoonful of melted butter on each fish. 
 
 A lemon cut in quarters makes a nice garnish for this 
 dish. 
 
 Fresh mackerel is very good for frying or broiling. 
 
 SPANISB MACKEREL BROILED. 
 
 Have a Spanish mackerel split down the back, and the 
 backbone taken out ; wash it in cold salted water, and dry 
 it on a clean cloth ; put it between the bars of a buttered 
 double wire gridiron, and lay the gridiron in a dripping-pan. 
 Rake all the ashes from the fire, and set the dripping-pan in 
 front of it, where the heat will strike the fish. Melt two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, mix it with one tablespoonful of 
 onion-juice or vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
 of a saltspoonful of pepper, and use the mixture to baste 
 the fish with while it is broiling. As soon as it is brown on 
 both sides, serve it hot, with the drippings in the pan poured 
 over it. If it is more convenient to broil the fish over the 
 fire, do not put the melted butter and seasonings on it until 
 it is dished. All broiled fish should be quickly cooked, or 
 it will become hard and dry. 
 
 Broiled Spanish mackerel is also excellent with the butter 
 called tnaitre d'hbtel, which is made by mixing together a 
 tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and cold butter, a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 Spanish mackerel may be boiled, and served with any 
 good sauce. 
 
 BROILED POMPANO, CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Have the fish scaled, drawn, and thoroughly washed in 
 cold water ; score it to the bone on both sides, making three 
 
212 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 or four cuts across the fish j season it Ughtly with salt and 
 pepper, place it between the bars of a buttered double wire 
 gridiron, and quickly broil it over a hot fire for about five 
 minutes on each side, or until the flesh begins to cleave from 
 the bones. Serve it on a hot platter, with a tablespoonful 
 of butter spread over it, and a little salt and pepper dusted 
 on it. Pompano is excellent when fried or boiled. 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Cucumber sauce is delicious with broiled pompano ; it is 
 made by adding a Very little juice squeezed from grated 
 cucumber, or the cucumber itself, to a mayonnaise sauce. 
 The cucumber-juice must be used with great caution, because 
 it possesses decided medicinal properties. 
 
 TO KEEP SHAD OVER NIGHT. 
 
 Have the shad cleaned, split down the back, and washed 
 in cold water ; mix together half a cupful of brown sugar, a 
 tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of cayenne-pepper ; 
 dry the shad on a towel, lay it on a platter, skin down, spread 
 the sugar, salt, and pepper over it, cover it with another 
 platter, and let it stand in a cool place. Before cooking it, 
 wipe off the seasoning with a dry towel, and cook the fish 
 at once. 
 
 BROILED SHAD. 
 
 Clean and wash the shad, split it down the back, and take 
 out the backbone ; lay the fish between the bars of a but- 
 tered wire gridiron, and put the inside over a hot fire ; have 
 ready a cup containing two tablespoonfuls of butter melted 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt, and while the fish is 
 being broiled brush it with the butter every five minutes ; 
 broil the inside of the shad about twenty minutes, then turn 
 it over and carefully brown the skin, taking care not to burn 
 
FISH AND SHhLLFISH {POISSON). 213 
 
 the fish in any part. As soon as it is cooked lay it, skin 
 down, on a hot dish, pour over it any melted butter remain- 
 ing in the cup, or spread some fresh butter over it ; season 
 it with pepper and salt, and serve it hot immediately. 
 Watercresses, lemon in slices, or cucumbers are the usual 
 garnishes. 
 
 TRIED SHAD. 
 
 After the shad is cleaned and washed, split it down the 
 back, cut out the backbone, divide the fish in pieces about 
 three or four inches square, and lay them on a clean dry 
 cloth ; have ready a dripping-pan or a large frying-pan con- 
 taining hot fat half an inch deep ; roll the fish in flour 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, put it into the fat when it is 
 smoking hot, and fry it brown on both sides ; use a broad 
 spatula or cake-turner to turn over the pieces of shad, in 
 order to keep them entire ; as fast as the pieces brown, lift 
 them out of the pan, lay them for a moment on brown paper 
 to free them from fat, and then put them on a hot dish. 
 Fried shad should be served with lemon, pickles, or cu- 
 cumbers. 
 
 Shad is excellent either boiled or baked. 
 
 SSAD-ROE. 
 
 After a shad-roe is well washed in cold water, wipe it quite 
 dry on a clean towel, put it between the bars of a double 
 wire gridiron thickly buttered, and broil it brown on both 
 sides ; when the roe is brown, serve it with butter, lemon- 
 juice, and parsley, or with plain butter, pepper, and salt. A 
 garnish of sliced cucumbers or tomatoes, or a few water- 
 cresses, may be served with the broiled roe ; and a dish of 
 mashed potatoes should be sent to the table with it. 
 
 Shad-roe may be fried in enough fat to prevent burning, 
 with a loose cover over the pan to protect the cook from the 
 fat which it spatters about. 
 
214 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 EELS. 
 
 To broil eels, have them thoroughly cleaned and washed ; 
 split them, take out the bone, and then cut them in pieces 
 about three inches long ; make a seasoning with plenty of 
 finely chopped parsley, a palatable quantity of pepper, salt, 
 powdered mace, and very little sage ; have ready a couple of 
 eggs beaten smooth, a dish of bread-crumbs, and a double 
 wire gridiron well buttered ; dip the pieces of eel first in 
 the egg, then in the bread-crumbs, and then in the season- 
 ing, lay them between the bars of the gridiron, and broil 
 them over a hot fire. While they are being broiled, mix 
 together a spoonful of anchovy paste or chopped anchovies 
 and a tablespoonful of butter, and spread them over the 
 broiled eels ; serve the eels hot as soon as they are done. 
 Eels prepared in the same way (or plain) may be fried in 
 hot butter instead of being broiled ; or they may be broiled . 
 without breading, simply splitting them and laying them in 
 a buttered double wire gridiron, and after they are cooked 
 serving them with salt, pepper, and butter. Eels may be 
 stewed in white sauce, after being parboiled ; or baked in a 
 brown gravy. 
 
 FRIED SMELTS ON SKEWERS. 
 
 The picture here given shows smelts fried upon skewers. 
 When the fish are clean and fresh, they may be wiped with 
 a wet towel (for some epicures think that their delicate flavor 
 is injured by washing them) , and then dried upon a clean one. 
 The frying-kettle, partly filled with fat, should be heating ; 
 and a dish of beaten eggs, and another of fine crumbs sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, ready near the fire. First dip 
 the smelts in milk, then lay them in the crumbs, covering 
 every part of them ; from the crumbs remove them to the 
 beaten egg, immersing the entire fish, and then again lay 
 them in the crumbs ; while they are still in the crumbs, run 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 
 
 2IS 
 
 a sharp, thin nickel or silver skewer through the eyes or gills 
 of four or six, according to their size, taking care not to 
 brush off the crumbs ; when the fat is smoking hot, put in 
 one skewerful of smelts, and fry them golden brown ; when 
 they are done, take them up with a skimmer, lay them on 
 brown paper in a dripping-pan, and keep them hot on the 
 
 Fried Smelts on Skewers. 
 
 oven-door until all are fried ; arrange them on a dish with 
 fried parsley and lemon £is a garnish, and serve them hot. 
 
 BROILED SMELTS. 
 
 Wash the fish in cold salted water, dry them on a clean 
 towel ; dip them in melted butter highly seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, and a dust of cayenne, place them between the bars 
 of a double wire gridiron, and broil them about eight min- 
 utes over a hot fire. If the fish are small, they will cook in 
 five minutes. Serve them on a hot dish with a sliced lemon. 
 Instead of dipping the smelts in melted butter, they may 
 be laid between very thin slices of bacon, and broiled, the 
 bacon being served with them. 
 
 FRIED BUTTEREISH. 
 
 After the fish have been properly cleaned, wash them in 
 cold salted water, dry them on a clean cloth, make several 
 
2l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 deep cuts to the bone on each side of the fish, roll them 
 in Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper, and firy them 
 in sufficient smoking-hot fat to prevent burning. Or, slice, 
 for two pounds of fish, a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork, 
 and fry it brown ; then roll the fish in flour, pepper, and salt ; 
 fry them with the pork, and serve them together. 
 
 AMERICAN WHITE-BAIT. 
 
 Use any small fish about two inches long. Wash the fish, 
 dry them on a clean towel, put them into a sieve containing 
 a little flour seasoned with salt and cayenne-pepper, and 
 shake them about so that a little of the flour adheres to 
 them ; have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat, 
 and when it begins to smoke throw in the fish/ and let them 
 fry for half a minute ; then take them up with a skimmer, 
 and serve them at once with brown bread and butter and 
 lemon. 
 
 The bread should be cut very thin, buttered, and two slices 
 laid together ; in this form it is piled on a plate : the slices 
 are cut about an inch wide, and three inches long. 
 
 OLD STYLE OF FRYING WHITE-BAIT. 
 
 Have ready a frying-kettle containing at least two inches 
 of fat, and make it hot over the fire ; have at hand also a 
 frying-basket of wire ; in a clean dry towel, put half a cup- 
 ful of flour and the white-bait, and shake them together ; 
 then put the fish into the wire basket, and shake off all the 
 loose flour. Let a drop of water fall into the hot fat : if it 
 sputters, the fat is right. Put in the frying-basket, and crisp 
 the white-bait, but do not brown them ; as soon as they are 
 crisp lift the basket, and throw the white-bait upon a napkin 
 folded on a hot dish; cut a lemon, and put it with them, 
 and serve them with a plate of brown bread cut thin and 
 buttered. 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 217 
 
 TROUT WITH CREAM GRAVY. 
 
 After the trout have been cleaned and washed, roll them 
 in Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper ; put a frying- 
 pan over the fire with enough fat in it to cover the bottom 
 to the depth of half an inch when it is melted, and when 
 the fat is smoking hot put in the trout, and quickly fry them 
 brown all over ; when the trout are brown, take them up on 
 a hot dish, and keep them hot. Pour out of the frying-pan 
 nearly all the fat ; put a cupful of milk into the pan, and stir 
 it until it boils ; if the meal which adheres to the pan makes 
 the milk too thick, add a little more. Let the gravy thus 
 made boil for a minute ; season it palatably with salt and 
 white pepper, pour it into a gravy-boat, and serve it with the 
 fried trout. If flour is preferred, it may be used instead of 
 the meal. 
 
 FRIED TROUT. 
 
 Clean, wash, and dry small trout ; season them with pep- 
 per and salt ; roll them in dry flour, and then plunge them 
 into enough smoking-hot fat to entirely cover them. As soon 
 as they rise to the surface of the fat, and are light brown, 
 take them up with a skimmer, lay them for a moment on 
 brown paper to free them from fat, arid then serve them at 
 once. 
 
 In the country, trout are usually fried with salt pork. 
 
 BOILED TROUT. 
 
 Small trout wrapped in a napkin, boiled in salted water, 
 and served with green peas, are delicious. 
 
 NEW ENGLAND FISH-CHOWDER. 
 
 Slice a quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it over a 
 gentle fire, using a large, round-bottom iron pot ; when the 
 pork is light brown, take it out of the fat which it has yielded 
 in frying, and put it on a plate for future use. While the 
 
2l8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 pork is frying, peel and slice two large onions, and fry them 
 light brown with the pork, removing them from the fat when 
 the pork is taken out. Meantime peel and slice four more 
 large onions ; peel ten medium-sized potatoes, and slice them 
 a quarter of an inch thick ; cut up five pounds of fresh cod- 
 fish or haddock in slices an inch thick, removing the bones, 
 and the skin also if it is disliked. Have ready a pound of sea- 
 biscuit or pilot- crackers, and salt and pepper for seasoning. 
 
 After the pork and onions are taken up, leaving the drip- 
 pings in the pot, put into it first a layer of fish, next a layer 
 of potatoes, then a layer of the raw onions ; season each 
 layer with a level teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of ground pepper. Repeat the layers of fish, 
 potatoes, and onions, until one-half the ingredients have 
 befen used ; then put in one-half the pork and half a pound 
 of the crackers, and season as before. Add the remainder of 
 the fish, potatoes, and onions, in layers, seasoning as already 
 directed, and on the top put the rest of the pork and crack- 
 ers. Over all these ingredients pour sufficient cold water to 
 reach three inches above the top layer, and cover and pkce 
 the pot where the chowder will boil gently for an hour ; the 
 heat must not be intense, for if the chowder should burn it 
 would be spoiled. At the end of an hour add a pint of 
 milk, let the chowder boil once, and serve it in a soup-tureen, 
 using soup-plates for dishing it. The same kind of crackers 
 used in making it are served with it. 
 
 When this chowder ig made for a party of gentlemen, half 
 a pint of Madeira wine is generally used in place of milk. 
 
 The Rhode-Island chowder is made without potatoes, 
 and a quart of cider and a pint of port are added to it. 
 
 CLAM-CHO WDER. 
 
 Use half a peck of hard or soft clams in the shell. After 
 the clams are taken from the shells, cut the soft parts free, 
 
F/SH AND SHELLFISH (PO/SSOJV). 219 
 
 and chop the rest quite fine ; put the chopped parts into a 
 deep kettle, with water enough to cover them, and boil them 
 gently until they begin to grow tender ; meantime peel and 
 slice two onions, six potatoes of medium size, and a pint of 
 tomatoes ; soak a pound of sea-biscuit in milk. When the 
 chppped clams are tender, take them out of the kettle with 
 a skimmer, and put in all the ingredients specified above, in 
 layers, alternating with the clams, and using the soft parts 
 in addition to the chopped clams. Season each layer with 
 salt, pepper, and a little powdered thyme, savory, and sweet 
 maijoram ; over all pour enough cold water to entirely cover 
 the chowder. Cover the kettle, and place it over the fire 
 where the chowder will boil gently for about twenty minutes ; 
 then see if the potatoes and onions are tender. As soon as 
 they are done, test the seasoning of the chowder ; make it 
 palatable, and then serve it. 
 
 SALT-FISH DINNER. 
 
 Soak two pounds of salt codfish over night, in cold water, 
 putting the fish into the water with the skin uppermost. The 
 next morning wash the fish, and put it into a large kettle with 
 plenty of fresh cold water ; set the kettle on the back of 
 the stove, where the water will keep hot without boiling, and 
 let the fish scald until just before dinner-time ; then boil it 
 gently for five minutes, drain it, and serve it with melted 
 butter made as described below, or with pork-scraps. Boiled 
 potatoes and boiled beets are sometimes served with the salt 
 fish, and in the season a dish of boiled parsnips. 
 
 MELTED BUTTER. 
 
 This old-fashioned sauce is seldom well made, but it is so 
 excellent that it deserves attention. It should be made 
 about fifteen minutes before dinner-time. Put in a clean 
 saucepan over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 
220 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then gradually stir in 
 a pint of boiling water, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
 of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and stir the sauce until 
 it is at the boiling point.' When the sauce boils, draw the 
 saucepan to the side of the fire, where its contents will keep 
 hot without boiling, and stir into it, one at a time, three 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, taking care that each one is en- 
 tirely mixed with the sauce before adding another. As soon 
 as the butter is stirred in, serve the sauce in a hot sauceboat. 
 
 SALT-FISH HASH. 
 
 Chop cold boiled salt fish fine, after removing all the skin 
 and bones ; chop twice as much boiled potato as there is 
 fish ; allow a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork for every 
 pound of fish, slice it, and fry it brown in a frying-pan, and 
 then take it up, leaving the drippings in the pan, and keep 
 it hot ; put the minced fish and potatoes into the frying-pan, 
 with a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and stir them 
 until they are hot; then move thtm to one side of the pan, 
 form them by pressing them together into a cake, let them 
 brown on the bottom, and then turn them out on a hot dish, 
 and serve them with the fried pork. The quantity of pork 
 given will generally yield enough drippings to fry the hash ; 
 but if there should not be sufficient, a little butter may be 
 used, only enough to brown the hash. 
 
 COD'S TONGUES WITH EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Wash two pounds of salt cod's tongue in cold water, pour 
 lukewarm water over them, and let them remain where the 
 water will retain its heat for two hours or longer ; after the 
 tongues have been soaked, put them over the fire in enough 
 cold water to cover them ; add a cupful of milk and a small 
 red-pepper pod or a palatable seasoning of cayenne, and 
 cook them slowly for about half an hour, or until they are 
 
FlSir AND SHELLFISH {FO/SSON). 221 
 
 tender; meantime boil three eggs hard, remove the shells 
 and chop the eggs. Just before the tongues are done, put 
 in a saucepan over the fire a heaping tablespoonful each 
 of butter and flour, and stir them" together until they begin 
 to bubble ; then gradually stir in enough of the milk and 
 water in which the tongues were boiled to make the sauce 
 sufficiently salt, and more milk to bring it to the consistency 
 of thick cream ; put the tongues into the sauce, add the 
 chopped eggs, and then serve them hot. 
 
 Tongues and sounds are good either fried, broiled, or 
 baked ; carfe being taken to freshen them first. 
 
 BOILED SALT MACKEREL WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Either freshen a salt mackerel by soaking it over night 
 in cold water, with the skin up, or by repeatedly heating it in 
 fresh water frequently changed. The fish should be placed, 
 skin upward, flat in a pan large enough to hold it, and 
 covered with cold water, the pan being put over a gentle 
 fire. As soon as the water is scalding hot, it should be 
 poured off and replaced with cold. The fibre of the fish 
 is not hardened by this process ; and generally, by the time 
 the fish is fresh enough to use, it is cooked. While the fish 
 is being freshened, make a sauce as directed below ; and 
 when the fish is freshened drain it, pour the sauce over it, 
 and serve it. The mackerel may be soaked, then broiled, and 
 served with white sauce or clarified butter, and a dish of 
 boiled potatoes. 
 
 CLARIFIED BUTTER. 
 
 Put in a cup or small saucepan four heaping tablespoon- 
 fuls of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of white pepper, and set it in a pan of hot water 
 over the fire where the butter will slowly melt ; as soon as 
 it is melted, carefully pour it into a sauceboat, without dis- 
 turbing the sediment at the bottom, and serve it at once. 
 
222 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOK£.RY. 
 
 DRIED SALMON. 
 
 After the fish has been scaled, split it down the back, 
 remove the entrails, saving the roe; then rub the fish 
 thoroughly with dry salt, and hang it by the gills to drain 
 over night. The next day mix together two ounces each 
 of powdered rock-salt and brown sugar and four ounces of 
 powdered saltpetre ; rub this mixture well into the fish, and 
 lay it on a large dish for two days ; then drain the fish, rub 
 it thoroughly with dry salt, hang it by the gills, and let it 
 dry. After it is thoroughly dry, it will be ready for use. 
 
 Dried salmon may be stewed in white sauce, broiled, and 
 served with butter and pepper, or cut in thin strips and 
 served as a relish; or broiled or fried, after it is soaked 
 over night in cold water, or brought to the boiling-point 
 after having been put over the fire in cold water enough 
 to cover it. 
 
 SALTED SHAD. 
 
 After the shad have been scaled, split therA iown the 
 back, clean them, saving the roes, wash them iit plenty of 
 cold water, and lay them in a wooden tray or tub, with fine 
 salt sprinkled thickly between the fish ; let the fish stand 
 in this salt for two days. Then drain and wipe the shad, 
 again sprinkle them with coarse salt, and pack them away 
 in boxes or tubs. Before using salted shad, soak them over 
 night in fresh water, laying the skin upward. 
 
 After salt shad has been freshened, . it may be baked, 
 boiled, broiled, or fried. 
 
 DIAMOND-BACK TERRAPIN. 
 
 The accompanying cut shows a diamond-back terrapin. 
 The short, thick legs are covered with a greenish-black skjp ; 
 the tail is small and short ; the head is thick, and is gen- 
 erally drawn close to or under the shell ; the back" shell is 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {pOTSSON). 223 
 
 divided into clearly defined sections, the lines of which 
 converge towards the centre, the centre itself being per- 
 ceptibly raised and slightly pointed ; these points form a 
 series of elevations down the middle of the back, which 
 give the terrapin its name of diamond-back. 
 
 Diamond-Bach Terrapin. 
 
 HOW TO BOIL TERRAPIN. 
 
 Terrapin should be alive when brought from the market. 
 Wash them by putting them for half an hour into a tub or 
 large pan half full of clean cold water ; have over the fire 
 a large pot half full of boiling water ; plunge the terrapin 
 into this, head first, grasping them from the back to avoid 
 the possibihty of a bite ; let the terrapin boil from five to 
 ten minutes, or until the skin of the claws or legs can be 
 rubbed off with a wet cloth ; after this outer skin is removed, 
 put the terrapin again over the fire in suflScient clean boil- 
 ing water to cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt to each 
 quart of water, and boil them gently until the shells begin 
 to separate at the sides : the length of time will vary. The 
 shells are joined at each side, between the fore and hind 
 claws or legs, with small serrated points, which part slightly 
 when the terrapin are tender; sometimes they are tender 
 in fifteen or twenty minutes, but often a longer time is 
 required for boiling. When the shells of the terrapin can 
 be parted, take them from the boiling water, and let them 
 cool until they can be dressed. 
 
224 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BOW TO DRESS TERRAPIN. 
 
 Loosen the sides of the shells of boiled terrapin as soon 
 as they are cool enough to handle ; Uft off the top shell, 
 which is held to the spine of the terrapin by small bands 
 of flesh ; these are to be pulled or cut apart ; then remove 
 the under shell. The entrails of the terrapin lie in a mass 
 with the eggs and liver embedded in them, and the legs are 
 attached to them by crossing bands of flesh; pull off the 
 legs, leaving the flesh attached to them, break off the sharp 
 claws at the extremities of the feet ; separate and throw away 
 the head, and put the legs on a dish ; carefully remove all 
 the eggs, and put them into a bowl of hot water; sepa- 
 rate the liver from the entrails, and cut out that part of the 
 liver which contains the small dark-green gall-bag that can 
 be seen at one side of the liver. The utmost care should be 
 taken to avoid cutting or breaking the gall-bag : in remov- 
 ing it, the liver should be held over an empty dish, and, if 
 the gall-bag is cut or broken, the liver should be thrown 
 away, and the hands washed before the dressing of the ter- 
 rapin is resumed. After the gall-bag is removed, cut the 
 liver in pieces about half an inch square, and put it with 
 the flesh of the terrapin. Only the flesh, eggs, and liver of 
 terrapin are ordinarily used ; old Southern cooks sometimes 
 scalded and scraped the intestines, and added them to ter- 
 rapin stew. When there are no eggs in terrapin, egg-balls 
 are made to accompany it ; a good recipe is given else- 
 where. 
 
 BROWN STEW OF TERRAPIN. 
 
 For a pint of terrapin meat, put into a saucepan two heap- 
 ing tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour, and stir them 
 together over the fire until they are delicately browned ; 
 then stir in a pint of the second water in which the terrapin 
 was boiled, or a pint of boiling water. When the sauce is 
 
JflSII AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 22^ 
 
 Stirred quite smooth, season it with a 'level teaspoonful of 
 salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful each of pepper and nutmeg, 
 and a dust of cayenne ; put the terrapin into the sauce, heat 
 it scalding hot, draw it to the side of the fire, add four raw 
 yolks of eggs beaten smooth, and then at once serve the 
 terrapin in a tureen containing a gill of good Madeira and 
 a tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 
 
 STEWED TERRAPIN WITH CREAM. 
 
 For a pint of terrapin-meat, use two heaping tablespoon- 
 fuls of butter and one of dry flour ; stir them over the fire 
 in a thick saucepan until they bubble ; then gradually stir in 
 a pint of cream, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
 saltspoonful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg, and 
 a dust of cayenne ; next put the terrapin into the sauce, 
 and stir it until it is scalding hot ; draw the saucepan to the 
 side of the fire, where its contents will not boil, and stir 
 in the yolks of four raw eggs previously beaten smooth ; do 
 not allow the terrapin to boil after adding the eggs, but 
 pour it at once into a tureen containing a gill of good 
 Madeira and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and serve it. 
 
 GREEN TURTLE. 
 
 The cuts of turtle copied from Dubois, and given in the 
 chapter on Soups, show the upper and under shell of a 
 green turtle, and one manner of killing it, by laying it upon 
 a sloping table after the. throat is cut, and allowing it to 
 bleed ; another method is to hang it by the hind fins, with 
 the head down, and so let it bleed. The under shell, or 
 calipee, is of a yellawish-white color ; and the upper shell, 
 or calipash, a dark green, almost black. The weight varies 
 from about fifty pounds to over five hundred. Full direc- 
 tions for killing and dressing green turtle aie given in the 
 recipe for turtle-soup. 
 
226 PRACTICAL AMERICAN CoOKERY. 
 
 GREEN TURTLE FRIED. 
 
 Cut thin slices of tender, uncooked turtle-flesh, or of cold 
 cooked turtle ; roll them in cracker- crumbs, then dip them 
 in beaten egg, and again roll them in crumbs ; have ready- 
 over the fire a frying-pan containing about half an inch of 
 butter melted, and when it begins to smoke put in the 
 slices of turtle, and fry them light brown ; when the slices 
 are fried, lay them on brown paper in a dripping-pan to 
 free them from grease, and keep them hot in the oven until 
 the sauce is made as follows : Pour nearly all the butter out 
 of the frying-pan ; stir in half a pint of cream, half a pint of 
 mild tomato catsup, and enough flour or cracker-crumbs to 
 make a sauce of the proper consistency ; let it boil for two 
 or three minutes while the fried turtle is being dished with 
 a garnish of sliced lemon or fresh water-cresses ; then pour 
 the sauce into a bowl, and serve the dish. Any other well- 
 seasoned sauce may be used with fried turtle. 
 
 Tender turtle steaks are very good broiled, and served 
 with any acid jelly. 
 
 TO PREPARE FROGS' LEGS. 
 
 The hind-legs of large frogs are the only parts used ; the 
 bodies are separated in the middle, and the legs are skinned. 
 The flesh of the legs is white, very tender, and somewhat 
 resembles that of poultry. After the frogs' legs are skinned, 
 wash them well in cold water, put them over the fire in 
 salted boiUng water, and boil them for five minutes ; then 
 throw them into cold water to cool. This process is called 
 blanching, and must always be done if the flavor is to be 
 considered. After the frogs' legs are blanched, they may be 
 fried or broiled according to any of the recipes for frying 
 or broiling fish, or stewed in a white sauce. 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 227 
 
 BOILED LOBSTER. 
 
 Choose a live lobster which seems heavy in proportion to 
 its size. Have over the iire a large pot full of boiling water, 
 containing a handful of salt ; plunge . the lobster head first 
 into the boiling water, which will kill it at once, and boil it 
 steadily for twenty minutes, or until the shell turns red. 
 Take it up, and as soon as it can be handled break off the 
 claws and tail, and carefully remove the soft fins which 
 lie close to the body where the legs join it. An ordinary 
 iron can-opener is very useful in breaking apart the shell of 
 the lobster. After the shell is separated so that the flesh can 
 be reached, save all the green fat and coral, and the white 
 curd-like substance which lies close to the shell ; remove all 
 flesh from the claws and body, and cut it in half-inch pieces ; 
 split the shell of the tail, remove and throw away the intes- 
 tine which runs through the centre of the tail, and save the 
 flesh. The lobster will then be ready to dress in accordance 
 with any of the following recipes. 
 
 SCALLOPED LOBSTER 
 
 Prepare a lobster as directed in the preceding recipe, and 
 make a pint of white sauce. Grate a loaf of stale bread. 
 Butter a deep earthen dish thickly, and put a half-inch layer 
 of crumbs on the bottom and sides ; then fill the dish with 
 alternate layers of lobster and bread-crumbs, seasoning each 
 layer with salt and pepper. Just before putting on the top 
 layer, which should be of bread-crumbs, fill the dish with 
 sauce ; then add the bread-crumbs, dust them with salt and 
 pepper, and set the dish into a quick oven until the crumbs 
 are brown. 
 
 Scalloped lobster may be prepared in small dishes of china, 
 or in silver scallop-shells, as shown in the illustration. 
 
228 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 SCALLOPED LOBSTER IN SHELLS. 
 
 The accompanying engraving shows shells or coquilles of 
 fish, cooked in silver or china, and served on a stand. The 
 fish may be prepared according to any of the recipes for 
 scalloped or devilled fish, and served either hot or cold. 
 
 Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 
 
 Lobster bwled, removed from the shell, and heated in any 
 good sauce, makes an excellent entree, or luncheon dish. 
 
 LOBSTER CHOPS OR CUTLETS. 
 
 Kull a lobster according to the recipe given for that oper- 
 ation ; remove the meat, and cut it in small, even dice ; save 
 the coral and green fat in opening the lobster; put in a 
 thick saucepan over the fire two tablespoonfuls each of 
 buttey and flour, and stir them until they bubble ; then grad- 
 ually stir in half a pint of milk or cream ; add the lobster, 
 together with the coral and fat, and a rather high seasoning 
 of salt and cayenne ; stir the mixture constantly ^until it is 
 very hot ; then take it from the fire, and stir in the yolks of 
 two raw eggs, and a glass of sherry or Madeira ; put the 
 mixture into a dish to cool. When it is cold, make it up in 
 the form of small chops or cutlets, shaping them with the 
 
FISff AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 229 
 
 hands wet in cold water ; as the chops are made, lay them 
 in a platter containing plenty of cracker-dust ; put over the 
 fire a frying-kettle half full of fat to heat ; beat two eggs 
 smooth; dip the chops into the egg, and then lay them 
 again in the cracker-dust. When the fat begins to smoke, 
 put the chops into it, and fry them golden brown ; when the 
 chops are brown, take them out of the hot fat with a skim- 
 mer, lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them 
 from grease, put a small lobster-claw in each one, and then 
 serve them garnished with parsley. 
 
 SCALLOPED PRAWNS OR SHRIMP. 
 
 Use either prawns or large shrimp, freed from the shells 
 after they are boiled. To a quart of the meat allow a quart 
 of dried bread-crumbs, a gill each of vinegar and tomato- 
 catsup, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter. Put these 
 ingredients into an earthen dish in layers, with a palatable 
 seasoning of salt and pepper, making the top layer of crumbs, 
 and bake the dish in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. 
 Serve the scalloped prawns hot, in the same dish in which 
 they were baked. Several small dishes, or scallop-shells, may 
 be used in place of the large dish. 
 
 SOFT-SHELL CRABS FRIED. 
 
 To prepare soft-shell crabs for cooking, wash them in cold 
 \vater, and lay them on their backs on a meat-board or on 
 \ht kitchen-table. Care should be taken, in buying them, to 
 select those which are fat and plump, and quite alive ; and 
 they should be carefully handled to avoid breaking off the 
 claws. Use a small, sharp knife in dressing the crabs ; cut 
 a. half-circle out of the body of each crab, running the knife- 
 blade just behind the eyes ; this removes the eyes and sand- 
 bag ; then lift the apron or flap, which lies near the back of 
 the under shell, and cut off the tuft, or hard fin-like portions 
 
230 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 attached to it, or remove it entirely ; press the back shell 
 away from the body, first on one side and then on the other, 
 and take out the tough, fibrous, soft fins ; then dry the crabs 
 on a clean towel. 
 
 Have ready a large platter full of fine dry bread-crumbs 
 or cracker-dust, mixed with a little pepper and salt, and on 
 the stove a frying-kettle or large frying-pan half full of 
 smoking-hot fat ; beat two eggs until they are quite liquid ; 
 roll the crabs in the crumbs, dip them for an instant in the 
 beaten eggs, taking care not to wash off the crumbs, then 
 roll them again in the crumbs, and put them into the hot fat 
 to fry ; they will be done as soon as they are brown all over. 
 Take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them for a 
 moment on brown paper to free them from grease, and serve 
 them hot. A lemon, cut in quarters, makes a nice garnish 
 for them, the juice being squeezed over the crabs by those 
 who like it. Sometimes the juice of a lemon is mixed with 
 a tablespoonful of melted butter and a little pepper and salt, 
 and poured over the crabs just before sending them to the 
 table. 
 
 SOFT-SBELL CRABS BROILED. 
 
 Dress the crabs as directed in the recipe for soft-shell 
 crabs fried. After drying them on a towel, dip them into 
 melted butter seasoned with pepper and salt, instead of 
 breading them. Put them between the bars of a buttered 
 double wire broiler, and broil them until the shells are bright 
 red and slightly browned. As soon as they are done, serve 
 them hot with melted butter and lemon-juice, or with a 
 lemon cut in quarters. Slices of hot dry toast may be 
 served under the broiled crabs. 
 
 CRABS SCALLOPED. 
 
 Boil six ordinary hard crabs until the shells are red, or 
 use an equivalent quantity of crab-meat from large crabs, 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 23 1 
 
 about a pint of the meat being required ; after the crabs are 
 boiled, remove the meat from the shells carefully, rejecting 
 the stomach which lies just back of the eyes, the intestine 
 which is coiled up in the middle of the body, and the soft 
 fins which lie under the legs, and saving the green fat and 
 the curd which lies next the shell. Boil two eggs hard, re- 
 move the shells, and chop them fine ; grate the rind and 
 strain the juice of a lemon. Put one tablespoonful each of 
 butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire, and stir them 
 until they bubble ; then gradually stir in a pint of milk, and 
 let the sauce thus made boil for a moment ; season it with 
 a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of 
 pepper, and a dust of cayenne ; add the crab-meat, chopped 
 eggs, and lemon. Let these ingredients all heat together, 
 and then put the mixture into scallop-shells, or a dish which 
 can be sent to the table. Dust cracker-crumbs over the 
 tops, brown the scalloped crab in a hot oven, and serve it 
 at once. 
 
 DEVILLED CRABS. 
 
 Boil the, crabs, and remove the meat from the shells as 
 directed in the recipe for scalloped crabs ; add to the meat 
 an equal quantity of bread or cracker crumbs, half a cupful 
 each of Worcestershire sauce and mixed mustard, a level 
 teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and half that 
 quantity of cayenne, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
 and just enough milk to moisten these ingredients so that 
 they can be mixed thoroughly. Fill the crab-shells with this 
 mixture, dust them with cracker-crumbs, arrange them in 
 a dripping-pan, put a small piece of butter on each, and 
 quickly brown them in a very hot oven. Serve them hot or 
 cold. The seasoning of devilled crabs should always be 
 high. 
 
232 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 KROMESKEYS OF CBAB. 
 
 Boil three or four large crabs, and remove the meat from 
 the shells as directed for scalloped hard crabs. Make a 
 fritter-batter as follows, and put a frying-kettle half full of 
 fat over the fire to heat : For the batter, mix together a cup- 
 ful of flour, a saltspoonful of salt, a dust of cayenne, the yolk 
 of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, and enough cold 
 water to form a thick batter. Just before using it, beat, the 
 white of the egg to a stiff froth, and stir it lightly into the 
 
 Ktomesheys of Crab. 
 
 batter. Cut as many very thin slices of fat salt pork as there 
 are to be kromeskeys, and smooth them to the thinness of 
 paper, with the back of a knife. Mix with the crab-meat 
 a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, add the yolks of 
 two raw eggs, and enough wine or sauce of any kind pre- 
 ferred to permit the crab-meat to be made up in little rolls, 
 with the hands wet in cold water; wrap the rolls in the 
 shoes of pork, dip them into the batter so that they are 
 entirely covered with it, and then fry them golden brown in 
 the hot fat ; lay them on brown paper for a moment after 
 they are brown to free them from fat, and then arrange them 
 on a napkin with parsley, as shown in the picture, and serve 
 the kromeskeys hot. 
 
fISff AND SHELLFISH (POISSON). 233 
 
 MUSSELS. 
 
 These cheap and excellent shell-fish are generally pre- 
 pared for market by pickling; but many good dishes can 
 be made from them, for several of which recipes are given 
 elsewhere. The shells of mussels in good condition are 
 dark and bright, and the fish fills them plumply. The edges 
 of the shells are sharp and firmly closed. If they are at all 
 muddy or sandy, they should be laid for an hour or longer 
 in a tub of cold water containing a handful of salt, and then 
 thoroughly washed before they are boiled. 
 
 To boil mussels, place them in a large kettle, after they 
 are thoroughly washed, with half a pint of water, and set 
 them over the fire until the shells open ; the liquor which 
 flows from them should be carefully strained, and kept to 
 use with them. After the mussels are boiled, take them 
 from the shells, carefully remove all the fine filaments at- 
 tached to the " tongue " or " foot " of the fish, cut off the 
 tip of the " tongue " and the dark, fringe-like edge, or 
 beard, which surrounds the gills ; the thread-like filaments 
 are called the "moss," and this is supposed to be more 
 or less poisonous. The office of the moss, or byssus, is 
 to attach the mussel to the rocks or wharves where it is 
 found. It should always be carefully removed before the 
 mussel is dressed, after it is boiled. Some cooks always 
 use a silver spoon in preparing mussels for the table, think- 
 ing that it Avill become blackened if they are unfit for 
 food. 
 
 Mussels are sometimes eaten raw like oysters ; but this 
 is not advisable, because some medical authorities assert 
 that the mussel occasionally contains a poisonous substance 
 which is neutralized by cooking, as is the case with some 
 varieties of mushrooms. Cases of poisoning by mussels 
 yield to intelligent medical treatment. 
 
234 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Mussels are good fried, broiled, or stewed in white sauce ; 
 they may be pickled like oysters. 
 
 SCALLOPS FRIED IN INDIAN MEAL. 
 
 Wash the scallops in cold water, and dry them on a clean 
 towel. While they are being dried, 'put over the fire a fry- 
 ing-kettle half full of fat, and let it get smoking hot ; then 
 quickly roll the scallops in Indian meal seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, drop them into the hot fat, and fry them light 
 brown ; as soon as they are brown, take them up with a 
 skimmer, lay them for a moment on brown paper to free 
 them from fat, and then serve them hot. Slices of lemon 
 served with the scallops greatly improve the flavor and 
 appearance of the dish. If water-cresses are in season, 
 they may replace the lemon. Scallops are excellent when 
 breaded and fried, or fried with salt pork. 
 
 FRIED SOFT CLAMS. 
 
 Wash a bunch or pint of soft clams in cold water, to free 
 them from sand, and lay them separately on a towel to dry. 
 Have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat, over the fire, a 
 dish of beaten raw eggs, and a platter of cracker-dust or 
 bread-crumbs ; roll the clams in the crumbs, then dip them 
 in beaten egg, and again roll them in crumbs ; when the 
 fat is smoking hot, put the clams into it, and fry them 
 golden brown ; then take them out of the frying-kettle with 
 a skimmer, lay them on brown paper to free them from fat, 
 and serve them hot. 
 
 Fried clams should be served with a garnish of lemon 
 cut in quarters, or a dish of sliced cabbage or of pickles. 
 
 SCALLOPED CLAMS. 
 
 Clams may be scalloped in their shells, or in china or 
 silver dishes. 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 235 
 
 CLAM FRITTERS. 
 
 Carefully wash all sand away from a bunch or pint of 
 clams, and chop them fine ; strain the water in which they 
 were washed ; have ready, over the fire, a frying-kettle half 
 full of fat; mix together a cupful of flour, the chopped 
 clams, the yolk of a raw egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and enough of the 
 water in which the clams were washed to make a thick 
 batter ; when the fat is hot, beat the white of one egg to 
 a stiff froth, stir ic into the fritter-mixture, drop it by the 
 tablespoonful into the fat when it is smoking hot, and. fry 
 the fritters ; when they are brown, take them out of the fat 
 with a skimmer, lay them on brown paper for a moment 
 to free them from grease, and then serve them hot. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES. 
 
 To make the patty-cases, first prepare a good puff-paste, 
 as directed in the proper recipe; in cutting it out, use 
 
 Oyster Patties. 
 
 either round or fluted tin pastry-cutters, such as are shown 
 in the picture of those implements given elsewhere. If 
 
236 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the cases are desired very high, use two layers of paste, 
 wetting the top of the lower one, to make the upper one 
 adhere to it, and gilding the top of the upper one with 
 beaten egg ; make a Uttle circular cut down in the top of 
 the patty, about quarter of an inch deep, to form the cover. 
 Bake the cases on a baking-sheet, wet with cold water, in 
 a moderately hot oven, until they are light brown; then 
 cool them, cut out the cover, and, with a small sharp knife, 
 take out the inner heavy portion ; after they are so prepared 
 they will be ready to fill, and serve either hot or cold. Fill 
 the patties with oysters cooked as directed in the recipe for 
 the ragoAt which is used to fill the vol-au-vent of oysters. 
 
 FRIED OYSTERS. 
 
 Oysters prepared according to this recipe can be used hot 
 or served cold, with celery and thin water-crackers, or wafer- 
 like slices of brown bread buttered. After carefully remov- 
 ing all bits of shell from large oysters, lay them on a sieve 
 to drain, while preparations are made for frying them. Put 
 over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat to heat ; season 
 yellow Indian meal with salt and pepper, and beat three 
 eggs until they are quite liquid ; dip the oysters, first in the 
 Indian meal, then in the beaten egg, and again in the meal, 
 and then drop them into the fat after it begins to smoke, 
 and fry them until they are golden brown ; use one hand 
 to dip the oysters in the egg, and the other to roll them 
 in the meal, and let the egg drain well from each oyster 
 before returning it to the meal ; leave the oysters in a dish 
 of meal until ready to put them into the frying-kettle ; after 
 they are fried light brown, take them out of the fat with a 
 skimmer, and lay them on a sieve so that they do not 
 touch each other, until they are served. If they are to be 
 served cold, let them become quite dry and cool ; after they 
 are cool, they can be kept in a cool dry place, — not in the 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH {POISSOIV). 237 
 
 refrigerator, — until they are wanted: if they are put in a 
 damp place, or where steam can reach them, they will 
 become soft and unpalatable. To be acceptable cold, they 
 must be slightly crisp, or certainly dry; a little salt may 
 be sprinkled over them when they are dished for the table. 
 Salt-pork drippings, or good olive-oil and lard in equal 
 proportions, are the best fats for frying the oysters. When 
 they are to be kept for several hours, care must be taken 
 either to arrange them in single layers or large dishes, or 
 to place waxed paper between them when severjj layers are 
 put on one dish. 
 
 Cracker-dust or bread-crumbs may be used instead of 
 Indian meal ; or the oysters may simply be rolled in flour 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and then fried in much or 
 little fat, only providing it is, smoking hot before they are 
 put into it. 
 
 BOAST OYSTERS. 
 
 Oysters for roasting should be washed in plenty of cold 
 water to free the shells from mud, and then placed upon 
 a bed of hot coals, with the thick end, where the shells are 
 united by a joint, down, so that the liquor may not all 
 escape as the oysters open under the effect of the heat ; as 
 fast as they open, they should be taken from the fire, and 
 sent at once to the table. An easy way to prepare oysters 
 is to arrange them in a dripping-pan, and place the pan 
 over the coals, or in a very hot oven; the flavor of the 
 oysters so cooked is good, and much of the difficulty of 
 handling them is obviated. Still another method is to make 
 the deep shells of oysters very hot in a pan in a hot oven, 
 then put an oyster in each shell with a very little butter, 
 and replace the pan in the oven for one minute ; this will 
 curl the edges of the oysters, and they can then be trans- 
 ferred, in the shells, to a platter, and sent to the table. A 
 pair of oyster-tongs is needed to handle the hot oyster-shells 
 
238 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 when the fish are roasted on the coals : in following the 
 other methods, the hands should be protected from burning 
 by a thick dry towel. 
 
 STEWED OYSTERS. 
 
 After all bits of shell are removed from the oysters, and 
 their liquor has been strained to free it from shell and 
 sand, put the liquor over the fire with a tablespoonful of 
 butter to the liquor from a quart of oysters, and let it boil ; 
 remove all scum as it rises ; add pepper palatably, and very 
 little salt ; milk may be used if it is desired, in equal 
 quantity with the oyster-liquor ; after the broth thus made 
 is freed from scum, and seasoned, put in the oysters ; watch 
 them, and the moment their edges curl, remove them from 
 the fire, and serve them at once. 
 
 Stewed oysters are sometimes thickened by the addition 
 of a little cracker-dust, and they may be varied by using 
 milk instead of part of the oyster-liquor. 
 
 PICKLED OYSTERS. 
 
 Oysters for pickling must be of medium size, carefully 
 opened without tearing them, and freed from all bits of 
 shell ; their liquor should be strained through a cloth fine 
 enough to retain any sand it may contain, and then placed 
 over the fire with the oysters, and allowed to cook for three 
 minutes after the oyster-liquor begins to steam ; the oysters 
 should be skimmed out of the broth, and laid on a sieve to 
 drain ; the liquor should be allowed to stand long enough 
 to deposit its sediment, then the clear part poured off and 
 again placed over the fire in a saucepan, with an equal 
 quantity of good vinegar ; to each quart of the mixed oyster- 
 broth and vinegar, allow the yellow rind of half a lemon, 
 two small blades of mace, an inch of stick-cinnamon, and 
 a level teaspoonful of peppercorns or a very small red 
 
FISff AND SHELLFISH {POISSON). 
 
 239 
 
 pepper ; let the pickle boil for about five minutes, removing 
 all scum as it rises, and then cool it ; put the oysters into 
 glass jars, cover them with the pickle, and close the jars to 
 exclude the air. The entire contents of each jar should be 
 used the day it is opened, as the oysters spoil quickly when 
 they are exposed to the air. Pickled oysters will keep two 
 or three weeks if the; jars are properly sealed ; they are best 
 if used soon after they are prepared ; in that case they re- 
 quire only to be scalded in the boiling broth, and they are 
 much plumper and more tender than when they are allowed 
 to boil, as they must do to insure perfect preservation for 
 any length of time. 
 
 VOL-ATJ-VENT OF OYSTERS. 
 
 To make the case for a vol-au-vent, follow the directions 
 given in the recipe for puff-paste until the paste is ready to 
 cut out ; then use either a pastry-cutter of the proper shape 
 and size, or a sharp knife. Cut out the case either with 
 
 Uncooked Vol-au-uent Case. 
 
 smooth or scalloped edges. The accompanying engravirig 
 of the uncooked vol-au-vent shows the scalloped edges ; the 
 cooked vol-au-vent is made with the smooth outline. After 
 the pastry is cut out, two or more pieces are to be laid 
 together, according to the height desired in the vol-au-vent 
 after it is baked. If the pastry is properly made, and rolled 
 
240 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 about half an inch thick, two layers will make the case about 
 four inches high after it is baked. Wet the layers with cold 
 water, to make them adhere ; with a sharp knife cut into the 
 top layer about half an inch, following the lines shown upon 
 the top of the uncooked vol-au-vent. These cuts will form 
 the cover shown in the cooked vol-au-vent. Brush the sur- 
 face with beaten egg, and bake the case in a moderate oven 
 until it is nicely browned ; then cool it, and fill it as directed 
 in the next recipe. 
 
 RAGdUT OF OYSTERS FOR VOL-AU-VENT. 
 
 Carefully remove all particles of shell from a quart of 
 large oysters, and strain their liquor to free it from sand and 
 
 Cooked Vol-au-uent Case. 
 
 shell ; put into a thick saucepan two tablespoonfuls each of 
 flour and butter, and stir them over the fire until they begin 
 to bubble ; then gradually stir in enough of the oyster-liquor 
 to make a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon, or as thick 
 as thick cream. If there is not enough oyster-liquor, use 
 some cream or milk to make up the required quantity ; sea- 
 
FISH AND SHELLFISH (POISSOI^. 24 1 
 
 son the sauce palatably with salt, pepper, and a very little 
 grated nutmeg, and let it boil once j then put in the oysters, 
 and stir them in the sauce until their edges curl. The 
 ragout may be used 'in that condition, or the yolks of two 
 raw eggs may be stirred into it after it is taken from the fire, 
 and three tablespoonfuls of oil and one of lemon-juice added, 
 a few drops at a time. While the oysters are being cooked, 
 the vol-au-vent case may be heated in the oven, if it is 
 wanted hot. To prepare it for the ragotlt, use a sharp knife 
 to cut around and lift up the cover; take out from the 
 middle of the case all the soft, heavy part of the pastry, and 
 then fill it with the ragout; as soon as the case is filled, lay 
 the cover over it, and serve it at once. If the ragout stand 
 in the case, the latter becomes saturated, and loses its fresh, 
 crisp character. When the vol-au-vent is to be served cold, 
 let the ragout cool before putting it into the case. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 RELISHES (ffors-d'auvres). 
 
 THE innumerable small appetizers known as relishes, or 
 hors-d'auvres, include all forms of pickles and table- 
 sauces, small sandwiches, and crusts garnished with highly 
 seasoned meats, various preparations of cheese, and eggs ; 
 in short, any small, highly spiced or seasoned dish calculated 
 to rouse or stimulate the appetite. 
 
 Relishes ; Bouchees and Rissoles. 
 
 TJMBALES, PATTIES, BOITCSEES. RISSOLES, AND 
 COCKSCOMBS. 
 
 Of the different forms of puff-paste shown in the above 
 engraving, the largest ones are timbales, or small deep patties ; 
 the second largest are patties ; the third in size are bouchees, 
 243 
 
RELISBES {UORS-D'CEUVJiES). 243 
 
 or small patties ; the smallest are rissoles, or little turnovers ; 
 the dark figures at one side of the picture represent cocks- 
 combs, which are included in some of the more elaborate 
 ragouts, for which recipes are given elsewhere. Rissoles are 
 baked and fried ; timbales are baked in deep, smooth moulds, 
 the bottom and sides of the mould being lined with plain 
 paste, and the top being made of puff-paste. All these forms 
 of pastry are made both in sweets and with delicate force- 
 meats and ragoHts. They are served among the hot entrees 
 when filled with forcemeats or ragoiHts. 
 
 TONGUE TOAST. 
 
 Make several slices of toast, and lay them on a platter ; 
 chop very fine or grate some bits of cold tongue, allowing 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls for each slice of toast. Put the 
 tongue into a saucepan. To each pint of tongue add a half- 
 cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable 
 seasoning of salt and pepper. Stir the tongue over the fire 
 until it is hot, then pour it on the toast, and serve it at once. 
 
 HAM TOAST. 
 
 Chop very fine half a pound of cold boiled or roasted 
 ham, mix with it the yolk of a raw egg and enough cream or 
 cream-sauce to moisten it a little, and season it highly with 
 salt and cayenne. Toast as many small slices of bread as 
 are required to hold the ham ; aiTange them in a dripping- 
 pan ; put a little mound of ham on each slice, and quickly 
 brown the surface in a very hot oven, or before an open fire. 
 Serve the ham toast either hot or cold. 
 
 CAVIARE TOAST. 
 
 Use the best Russian caviare, if it is obtainable • an Ameri- 
 can or German caviare is sometimes good, and less expensive 
 than the Russian. The best caviare, when freshly made, 
 
244 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 somewhat resembles oysters in taste ; but the flavor of other 
 sorts is indescribable. A mock-caviare can be made by 
 boning half a dozen anchovies, and pounding them to a 
 paste with a clove of garlic. Caviare is served with lemon- 
 juice ; or with salt, pepper, vinegar, and a little oil, mixed 
 like a salad-dressing. After it is seasoned it is spread lightly 
 upon delicate slices of toast ; or it may be eaten with brown 
 bread cut thin and buttered very slightly. At dinners caviare 
 is placed upon the table with the relishes, or served after the 
 oysters and soup. 
 
 SMOKED FISH FOR RELISHES. 
 
 Small strips of cured fish, either salted or smoked, are 
 acceptable as a relish ; or small fish which have been pre- 
 served in oil, such as anchovies or sardines, may be wiped 
 dry with a towel, and served with vinegar or lemon-juice. 
 Smoked eels, herring, halibut, sturgeon, tunny-fish, salt cod- 
 fish, salmon. Finnan haddie, Yarmouth bloaters, or any dried 
 fish may be served in this course ; only it must be delicately 
 prepared, in small pieces, and with some suitable garnish, so 
 as to be an appreciable incentive to the enjoyment of the 
 heavier dishes which succeed it. Sliced lemon is always a 
 good garnish for any highly seasoned relish. 
 
 SANDWICH BUTTER. 
 
 Mix together equal parts of good butter and grated ham 
 or tongue ; season rather highly with salt, cayenne, and 
 mustard mixed with vinegar. Pack the mixture into httle 
 earthen jars ; cover each jar with a piece of paper dipped 
 in brandy, and then exclude the air by a tight cover, or a 
 bladder wet and then tied over the top. 
 
 This butter may be made by the quantity, and kept in a 
 cool, dry place. Its flavor may be changed by varying the 
 ingredients and seasoning. 
 
RELISffES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 24S 
 
 SAIWWICHES. 
 
 Very acceptable sandwiches can be made with the potted 
 and devilled meats and game now sold in jars and tins. The 
 bread should be quite free from crust, cut in thin small slices, 
 and thinly spread with the best butter ; a very thin layer 
 of highly seasoned meat, game, or poultry, or some kind of 
 spiced or salted fish, is put between two slices of buttered 
 bread ; the irregular edges are trimmed off, and the sand- 
 wiches kept cool until wanted for use. Any meat or fish 
 intended for sandwiches should be chopped or grated before 
 using it, and rather highly seasoned. Sardines make very 
 good sandwiches. 
 
 CANAP^ES. 
 
 Canapees are small slices of bread slightly hollowed out 
 on the upper surface, and then fried golden brown in plenty 
 of smoking-hot fat. The little hollow is filled with any 
 highly seasoned meat, and the canapees served either hot 
 or cold. 
 
 BOnCHEES. 
 
 Bouchies are very small shells of puff-paste, filled with 
 any highly seasoned mince or ragoiU. They are served 
 both hot and cold. 
 
 RISSOLES. 
 
 Rissoles are little turnovers of puff-paste, filled with highly 
 seasoned mince, and fried like croquettes. 
 
 SPICED VEAL. 
 
 Cut cold lean veal, either baked or fried, into pieces an 
 inch square. Measure sufficient vinegar to cover it ; heat 
 the vinegar scalding hot, adding to each pint one dozen 
 whole cloves, half an inch of stick-cinnamon, a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and a small red pepper or a dozen peppercorns; 
 when the vinegar is scalding hot, pour it and the spices over 
 
246 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the veal, and let the veal stand in this pickle for at least 
 twenty-four hours ; it may then be used cold for luncheon 
 or supper. 
 
 VEAL LOAF. 
 
 Chop four pounds of raw veal quite fine ; mix with it half 
 a pound of crackers rolled to large crumbs, three raw eggs, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt,, two saltspoonfuls of pepper, and a 
 quarter of a saltspoonful of powdered allspice ; if the veal 
 is perfectly lean, add a tablespoonful of butter ; put this 
 mixture into a smooth tin mould or pan just large enough 
 to contain it. Set it in a moderate oven, and bake it for 
 two hours. After the veal loaf is cooked, let it cool in the 
 pan, and then turn it out. It is to be sliced, and served 
 cold for luncheon or supper. 
 
 JELLIED CHICKEN. 
 
 Have a large chicken or fowl plucked, singed, wiped with 
 a wet towel, and drawn without breaking the intestines ; cut 
 off the head and feet, and divide it in four or five pieces, 
 so that it can be packed closely in a saucepan ; cover it 
 with hot water, add a teaspoonful of salt and a level salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, cover the saucepan closely, and boil the 
 chicken until the bones can be taken out, always taking care 
 that there is broth enough to prevent burning. After the 
 bones have been removed from the chicken, put it into a 
 tin or earthen mould, or an ordinary dish of suitable size, 
 from which it can be turned when cold ; strain the broth, 
 return it to the saucepan, place it over the fire, and dissolve 
 gelatine in it ; allow half a small box of gelatine to a quart 
 of broth ; soften the gelatine in enough cold water to cover 
 it, while the chicken is being boiled, and then by stirring it 
 with the hot broth for a few moments it will entirely dis- 
 solve ; season the broth palatably with salt and a very little 
 cayenne, and pour it over the chicken in the mould ; as soon 
 
SEUSffES (ffORS-D'CEUVRES). 247 
 
 as the chicken is quite cold, it can be turned out of the 
 mould and sUced as desired. Any acid jelly, or spicy pickle, 
 makes a good garnish for jellied chicken. Jellied cran-. 
 berries are excellent with the chicken. 
 
 PICKLED CHICKEN. 
 
 Pluck and singe a chicken, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
 it without breaking the intestines, cut it in joints, and boil 
 it until quite tender in just enough water to cover it, with 
 a level tablespoonful of salt, two blades of mace, and a tea- 
 spoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns. When the 
 chicken is tender, remove all the bones, and put the meat 
 loosely in a jar. To enough of the broth to half fill the jar, 
 add an equal quantity of vinegar and all the spice ; let this 
 pickle get scalding hot, and then pour it over the chicken. 
 When the pickle is cold, cover the jar. The chicken will be 
 fit to use after six hours. 
 
 PEANUTS ROASTED WITH SALT. 
 
 This side of Mason and Dixon's Une, these favorite nuts 
 are not half well estimated. That a whole dinner — and not 
 a bad one — can be made of them, may not have occurred 
 to the reader who is unfamiliar with the author's peanut 
 mem/. 
 
 The trial is suggested, of carefully removing the shells and 
 skins, and roasting the nuts like the almonds described in 
 the next recipe. If wine is used with them, it should be 
 sherry, or Madeira; or the salted nuts may be eaten with 
 celery, or plain lettuce salad, or with cheese and crackers. 
 
 SALTED ALMONDS. 
 
 After shelling almonds, pour boiling water upon them, and 
 let them remain in it until the skins begin to loosen, which 
 will be soon. Rub the almonds in a clean towel, to remove 
 
248 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the skins; put the blanched almonds into a pan, with 
 enough butter to prevent burning (very little will suffice), and 
 put the pan into a qu;ck oven. Watch the almonds, and 
 shake the pan frequently, so that they may brown equally. 
 When they are delicately and evenly colored, take them up, 
 let them cool, and then dust a little salt over them, and use 
 them as a relish at luncheon or dinner, or serve them as a 
 course with some fine sherry or Madeira. 
 
 WALNUTS AND WINE. 
 
 Where nuts and wine are served as a course, the nuts 
 should be fine English walnuts, carefully peeled, and old 
 Madeira should accompany them if possible ; that is, this 
 combination is absolutely acceptable. Salt should be on the 
 table for the nuts, or, after they are taken from the shells, 
 they can be dipped in the glass of wine before they are 
 eaten. Other combinations are : filberts and sherry or Ma- 
 deira ; salted , almonds and sherry ; salted chestnuts — the 
 large French or Italian nuts, either boiled or baked, and 
 peeled — and a good Chianti or a claret ; or Girard boiled 
 chestnuts with an Italian wine, BaroU ; or hickory-nuts and 
 sherry ; or a variety of nuts, with olives and sherry ; or 
 paper-shell almonds and sherry. A favorite American com- 
 bination is nuts, raisins, apples, and cider : this belongs ' 
 with the old-fashioned American Thanksgiving or Christmas 
 dinner of roast turkey, chicken-pie, sweet-potatoes, steamed 
 squash, oyster or chicken salad, celery, cranberry-jelly, 
 squash, pumpkin, and mince pies, and plum-pudding. A 
 good after-dinner " bite " is the Girard nut sandwich. Fil- 
 berts might be used for this sandwich. English filberts 
 should be kept in their husks, damp, or packed in salt, so 
 that the kernels will be soft. If the husks look mouldy, put 
 the nuts in a colander, and shake them over the fumes of a 
 little burning sulphur before sending them to the table. 
 
RELTSHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 249 
 
 . GIRARD BOILED CHESTNUTS. 
 
 A most delicious hot relish is made of boiled Italian 
 chestnuts, served with fresh butter. After washing the chest- 
 nuts, cut through the stem end of the shells with two cuts, 
 crossing each other, so that the shells can be easily stripped 
 off; tie the nuts in a napkin, and boil them just tender in 
 salted boiling water ; then take them up, turn them into a 
 fresh napkin laid in a salad-bowl, and serve the nuts hot, 
 with fresh butter and salt. If served at dinner, a good Bor- 
 deaux wine should accompany them, or Baroli. 
 
 THE GIRARD NUT SANDWICH. 
 
 Use very thin home-made bread, cut free from crust, and 
 lightly buttered. Upon each slice lay the thinnest possible 
 slice of Gruyere cheese ; then peel as many fresh walnuts 
 as will cover a slice, lay them upon the cheese, and sprinkle 
 a very little salt over the nuts ; lay another thin shaving 
 of cheese on the nuts, and more very thin buttered bread ; 
 press the slices of bread close together, to hold the nuts in 
 place, and serve the sandwiches with a fine sherry. This 
 may make an after-dinner relish, or be served with the green 
 salad, dressed with plain French salad-dressing, as a course. 
 
 WELSH RAREBIT. 
 
 The ordinary American factory cheese is excellent for 
 rarebits, because it grates easily, melts quickly, and blends 
 smoothly with the other ingredients. To make a rarebit, 
 mix the following ingredients in a saucepan, and then stir 
 them over the fire until they are smoothly melted together ; 
 meantime prepare two slices of toast, and lay them on a hot 
 dish. When the rarebit is quite smooth, pour it on the toast, 
 and serve it at once. The proper ingredients for a rarebit 
 are ; quarter of a pound of cheese grated, two ounces of 
 
250 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 butter, two tablespoonfuls of ale, a saltspoonful each of salt 
 and dry mustard, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
 a dust of cayenne. 
 
 A very good rarebit is made by substituting for the ale 
 the yolks of two raw eggs, beaten in half a cupful of milk. 
 This rarebit is mixed and cooked like the first, and is very 
 tender and delicate. 
 
 GOLDEN BUCK. 
 
 A golden buck is a Welsh rarebit with a poached egg laid 
 on it. 
 
 YORKSHIRE RAREBIT. 
 
 A Yorkshire rarebit is a golden buck with a slice of fried 
 or broiled bacon laid upon the poached egg. 
 
 All the rarebits may be made at the table in a chafing-dish, 
 if the cheese is grated and the toast prepared in the kitchen. 
 The more quickly they are eaten after they are cooked, the 
 better they are. 
 
 CHEESE STRAWS AND CRUSTS. 
 
 Cheese crusts and cheese straws make an acceptable 
 accompaniment for any green salad, or for celery. To pre- 
 pare cheese straws, sift six ounces of flour on the pastry- 
 board, make a hole in the centre, into which put the yolk 
 of a raw egg or two tablespoonfuls of cream, three heaping 
 tablespoonfuls of any dry rich cheese, grated, an equal 
 quantity of butter, half a level teaspoonful of salt, quarter 
 of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne, and 
 a very little grated nutmeg. Mix these ingredients with 
 the tips of the fingers to a smooth paste, which can be 
 rolled out an eighth of an inch thick. If the cream and 
 butter do not furnish moisture enough to form the paste, 
 add a very little cold milk or water. When the paste is 
 rolled out, cut it in small strips about six inches long, with 
 a sharp knife or with the pastry-wheel; lay the strips or 
 
RELISHES {ffORS-D'CEUVRES). 2$\ 
 
 Straws on a buttered baking-pan, in straight rows, a little 
 apart, and set the pan in a moderate oven ; the straws will 
 cook within a few minutes, and must be watched carefully, 
 because, if they are allowed to brown, their flavor will be 
 spoiled ; they need to bake only long enough to slightly 
 harden them, but not to become at all brown. When they 
 are done, let them cool on the pan, and then transfer them 
 to the dish on which they are to be served, taking care to 
 lift them by slipping under them the flexible blade of a long, 
 thin knife, for they are very brittle. 
 
 Cheese crusts are small slices of bread covered with grated 
 cheese, seasoned with salt and pepper, and browned in a hot 
 oven. 
 
 CHEESE PXTFFS. 
 
 Grate half a pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a 
 dozen small paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing-paper, 
 like those shown farther on in the picture of souffle cases. 
 Put over the fire a thick saucepan containing a gill of water ; 
 add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and, when the water boils, 
 stir in one heaping tablespoonful of flour, and beat the mix- 
 ture until it cleaves away from the sides of the saucepan ; 
 then stir in the grated cheese ; remove the paste thus made 
 from the fire, and let it partly cool ; meantime separate the 
 yolks from the whites of three eggs, and beat them until 
 the yolks foam and the whites make a stiff froth ; then first 
 stir the yolks with the paste, and next lightly mix in the 
 whites ; put the mixture at once into the buttered paper 
 cases, filling them only half full, as they rise very high while 
 being baked ; and bake them in a moderate oven for about 
 fifteen minutes : as soon as the puffs are done, put the cases 
 on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve them 
 very hot. Served with celery they will make a course at a 
 regular dinner, after the game ; or they may replace a sweet 
 dessert at a plain dinner. 
 
252 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 POTTED CHEESE. 
 
 Grate two pounds of old cheese : pound it in a mortar 
 to a smooth paste with a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 saltspoonful of powdered mace, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 a glass of sherry ; pack the cheese in earthen jars, cover it 
 with clarified butter, ^ which is butter melted at a gentle 
 heat, and poured carefully away from the sediment, — and 
 keep it in a cool place. 
 
 EASTER EGGS. 
 
 Easter morning would be incomplete, for the children at 
 least, without the brightly colored eggs typical of the day. 
 There are many ways of coloring the eggs, the easiest being 
 the boiling of them with various colored dyes sold in small 
 packages at the chemists'. An old-fashioned method was 
 to tie each egg in a piece of figured chintz or calico, which 
 would leave its imprint on the egg after it was exposed to 
 the action of boiling water. Another good way to produce 
 a variegated reddish-purple color was to boil with the eggs 
 the skins of red onions. To color the eggs with original 
 designs, a provincial method was to trace figures upon the 
 shells of raw eggs with a bit of hard tallow candle, thus 
 covering the part of the shell which was desired white, and 
 then to put the eggs in boiling dye-water. Sometimes the 
 eggs are entirely dyed, and then designs are engraved upon 
 them with a sharp knife or a strong trussing or darning 
 needle. When the prepared dye-stuffs are not available, 
 varied colors may be produced by using the following- 
 named chemicals, boiling a small quantity with the eggs : 
 Red, Brazil wood ; yellow, Persian berries, or a very little 
 tumeric ; brown, a strong dye of tumeric ; claret color, log- 
 wood ; black, logwood and chromate of potash ; blue, a 
 mixture of powdered indigo, crystals of sulphate of iron. 
 
HELISffES {ffORS-D'CEUP'RES). 2S3 
 
 and a little dry slacked lime. The eggs should always be 
 boiled for ten minutes at least. 
 
 HARD-BOILED EGGS. 
 
 Put half a dozen eggs over the fire in cold water, let the 
 water heat, and boil the eggs for ten minutes after the water 
 begins to boil ; then put them for a moment into a bowl of 
 cold water so that they can be handled ; break the shell in 
 every direction by tapping the eggs upon the table, and 
 then peel it off. 
 
 TURKEY. GEESE. AND DUCK EGGS. 
 
 Put the eggs into a bowl filled with boiling water for five 
 minutes, keeping the bowl covered tight and in a hot place ; 
 then pour off the first water, replace it with more boiling 
 water, and let them stand for five minutes longer; serve 
 them like ordinary boiled eggs ; or, actually boil the eggs 
 for five minutes : either of these methods will cook the eggs 
 medium hard. From ten to fifteen minutes boiling will 
 cook the eggs hard, according to their size. Duck eggs 
 will cook in less time than turkey or goose eggs. 
 
 STEAMED EGGS. 
 
 Break in separate cups as many eggs as are required to 
 cover the bottom of a shallow dish the size of the steamer. 
 Butter the dish, slip the eggs on it ; put a small bit of butter 
 and a little salt and pepper on each, and set the dish in the 
 steamer for three minutes or longer, until the eggs are cooked 
 to the required degree. A colander set over a kettle of 
 boiling water will serve for steaming the eggs if it can be 
 closely covered. 
 
 BROILED EGGS. 
 
 Make as many small slices of toast as there are eggs, lay 
 them on a platter, butter them, and on each one put an 
 
254 FRACTJCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 egg, first broken into a cup; set the dish before the fire 
 where the heat will strike the eggs, and let them cook to 
 the required degree ; when the eggs are done, squeeze over 
 them the juice of a sour orange, season them lightly with 
 salt and cayenne, and serve them hot. 
 
 SHIRRED EGGS. 
 
 This form of cooking eggs is a modification of baking 
 them. Small earthen dishes are used, each one holding an 
 egg; the dishes are buttered, an egg put into each one 
 without mixing the white and yolk, and a little salt and 
 pepper dusted over the eggs; the dishes are then placed 
 upon the back of the stove, or in a moderate oven, until 
 the whites of the eggs are set ; the dishes are then sent to 
 the table, and the eggs eaten from them. When the eggs 
 are cooked in the oven, they should be covered with a 
 buttered paper to prevent the browning of the surface. 
 
 POACHED EGGS WITH HAM. 
 
 Have ready about a quarter of a pound of cold boiled 
 ham, in one piece, trimmed free from fat ; make a dish of 
 very delicate buttered toast ; break half a dozen eggs into 
 separate cups, without breaking the yolks; put over the 
 fire a frying-pan half full of boiling salted water, add half a 
 cupful of vinegar to it, slip the eggs gently into it without 
 breaking them, and cook them to the required degree; 
 while the eggs are being cooked, grate the ham ; when the 
 eggs are done, take them up on a skimmer, slip each one 
 on a slice of toast, lay a tablespoonful of grated ham on • 
 each egg, and serve them at once. 
 
 Plain poached eggs are served on toast without the addi- 
 tion of the grated ham. 
 
 Eggs poached in gravy are very good. 
 
RELISHES (HORS-D'CEVVRES). 2$$ 
 
 FRIZZLED BEEF AND EGGS. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of sliced dried beef in a frying- 
 p-on over the fire, with milk or water enough to cover it, 
 and let it cook slowly for five minutes ; then pour off the 
 liquid, and add in its place a tablespoonful of butter and six 
 raw eggs ; stir the beef and eggs together over the fire, 
 season them palatably with salt and pepper, and serve them 
 as soon as they are_ cooked to the desired degree. 
 
 FRIED EGGS. 
 
 9 
 
 Usually ham is fried as an accompaniment for eggs, the 
 e^gs being cooked in the pan after the ham is done ; but 
 eggs can be fried in drippings, lard, or butter. Have ready 
 in the frying-pan enough fat to half cover the eggs ; break 
 the eggs in separate cups or saucers, and slip them into the 
 hot fat; "if the eggs are to be cooked hard, either dip 
 the hot fat up over them with a spoon, or turn them entirely 
 over in it without breaking the yolks; when the eggs are 
 cooked to the desired degree, dust over them a little pepper 
 and salt, and serve them. 
 
 SCRAMBLED EGGS. 
 
 This is a favorite dish for luncheons or breakfasts. The 
 eggs are broken into a frying-pan containing about a tea- 
 spoonful of butter for each egg, and a palatable seasoning 
 of salt and pepper ; the eggs are then stirred over the fire 
 until they are done to the desired degree, and then served 
 hot. The eggs may be scrambled at the table, in a chafing- 
 dish. 
 
 OMELETS. 
 
 There is an infinite variety of omelets, named from the 
 specjal flavor or seasoning given by any predominating 
 ingredient. The sweet light omelets are used either for 
 
256 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 breakfast or plain desserts ; the plain omelets are suitable 
 for breakfast and luncheon. In the parsley and fines herbes 
 omelets, the chopped herbs are mixed with the eggs before 
 the omelet is cooked ; grated ham, tongue, and cheese 
 are also mixed in the same way. Separate recipes are 
 given for other omelets, where the special ingredient used 
 is enclosed in the omelet. 
 
 SARDINE OMELET. 
 
 Have ready over the fire a frying-pan containing two 
 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil ; remove the skin and bones from 
 two sardines, arid cut them in half-inch lengths ; beat three 
 eggs with half a saltspoonful of salt and a slight dust of 
 cayenne-pepper for a minute ; have ready half a teaspoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice or vinegar ; when the oil is hot, pour the 
 eggs into the pan, place it over the fire, and, with a fork, 
 slightly break the omelet on -the bottom, as it .cooks, so 
 that the uncooked portion can run upon the pan ; do not 
 tear the edges of the omelet. When the omelet is cooked 
 to the required degree (and it should not be too well done), 
 lay the sardines on one side of it, pour the lemon-juice or 
 vinegar over them, fold the omelet together, enclosing 
 them, and then turn it out on a hot dish, and serve it at 
 once. All omelets should be served the moment they 
 are done, as they harden by standing; and they should 
 never be overdone. 
 
 OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Use either fresh or canned mushrooms; heat a table- 
 spoonful of chopped canned mushrooms, in enough white 
 sauce to moisten them ; or clean three fresh mushrooms, of 
 medium size, and fry them in just enough butter to pre- 
 vent burning, seasoning them palatably with salt and pepper. 
 While the mushrooms are being heated, beat for half a 
 minute three whole eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, "nd 
 
RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 257 
 
 very little pepper ; put a smooth frying-pan over the fire, 
 with a teaspoonful of butter; when the butter begins to 
 brown, pour in the beaten egg ; as soon as the egg sets upon 
 the bottom of the pan, break it a little with a fork occasion- 
 ally, and aUow the uncooked portion of the egg to reach 
 the pan ; do not break the outer edge of the omelet, and 
 do not stir it all together like scrambled eggs. When the 
 omelet is cooked to the desired degree, put the mush- 
 rooms in the middle, fold the omelet together by lifting 
 one half on a broad, flexible knife, and laying it over the 
 other; then loosen it entirely from the pan, turn it out 
 without breaking it, and serve it at once. 
 
 RICE OMELET. 
 
 Melt a tablespoonful of butter, add it to a cupful each of 
 milk and cold boiled rice, a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
 three well-beaten eggs ; put a tablespoonful of butter in a 
 hot frying-pan, and melt it ; when the butter is melted, pour 
 into the pan the ingredients already mixed, set the pan in 
 a hot oven, and quickly bake the omelet. As soon as it is 
 cooked, fold it double, turn it out on a hot dish, and serve 
 it at once. 
 
 OMELET WITH JELLY. 
 
 Put a frying-pan over the fire to heat, with a teaspoonful 
 of butter ; beat separately the yolks of three eggs with a 
 teaspoonful of sugar, and the whites to a stiff froth ; when 
 the butter is melted, mix the whites and yolks gently to- 
 gether, and put them into the hot pan ; as fast as the 
 omelet cooks, lift the cooked portion from the pan with 
 a fork, and throw it upon one side of the pan, letting the 
 uncooked part down upon the hot pan. When the omelet 
 is cooked to the desired degree, put a tablespoonful of jelly 
 in the middle, fold the omelet together, and turn it out 
 on a hot dish ; dust it with powdered sugar, and serve it. 
 
258 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PINEAPPLE OMELET. 
 
 Have ready a tablespoonful of fresh grated pineapple, or 
 of pineapple-preserve ; mix together three eggs, a teaspoon- 
 ful of lemon-juice, and a tablespoonful of sugar; put the 
 omelet into a hot buttered pan, and cook it as directed 
 in the recipe for sardine omelet, until it is ready to fold ; 
 then put in the pineapple, fold the omelet together, and 
 turn it out on a hot dish ; dust it with powdered sugar, and 
 serve it at once. 
 
 TOMATO CATSUP. 
 
 Scald and peel a peck of tomatoes and two onions ; boil 
 them with a pint of vinegar in the preserving-kettle, until 
 they are tender enough to rub through a sieve witli a potato- 
 masher; then add to them a cupful of salt, half a cupful 
 of mustard mixed with the same quantity of vinegar, two 
 tablespoonfuls each of powdered cloves, mace, allspice, and 
 black pepper, and one level teaspoonful of cayenne-pepper. 
 Boil all these ingredients together again for an hour, and 
 then bottle the hot catsup in bottles heated in hot water ; 
 cork and seal the bottles while hot. 
 
 SEALING-WAX FOR PICKLE JARS. 
 
 Put three ounces of yellow beeswax into a small tin pail 
 with six ounces of powdered rosin ; set the pail in a pan of 
 hot water, and stir the wax and rosin until they are melted 
 and smoothly blended. While the wax is still liquid from 
 the action of heat, apply it to the jars or bottles containing 
 pickles or preserves, after they are corked. 
 
 CUCUMBER CATSUP. 
 
 Peel and chop very fine twelve large cucumbers, an equal 
 measure of Spanish onions, four large green peppers without 
 
RELISNES {HOSS-D'CEUVRES). 259 
 
 the seeds, one small bulb of garlic, and four shallots ; grate 
 one medium-sized root of horseradish ; put all these ingredi- 
 ents in a porcelain-lined kettle over the fire, add enough 
 cold vinegar to cover them, together with half a cupful of 
 salt, and a tablespoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, 
 mace, and cinnamon, and red pepper to taste. Boil the 
 catsup gently until it is of the proper consistency, and then 
 cool and bottle it. 
 
 OYSTER CATSUP. 
 
 Remove all pieces of shell from a hundred large, fresh 
 oysters ; put them into a mortar with four tablespoonfuls of 
 salt, one ounce of powdered mace, and one saltspoonful of 
 cayenne-pepper, and pound them to a smooth paste ; put 
 this paste over the fire with an equal quantity by measure 
 of white wine ; let it heat slowly, and then boil for five 
 minutes ; then rub the catsup through a fine sieve, boil it 
 again for five minutes, skimming it quite clear; cool the 
 catsup after the second boiling, add to it a glass of brandy, 
 and bottle, cork, and seal it. It is used as a table-sauce, 
 and for flavoring soups, sauces, and gravies. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and slice four quarts of fresh tomatoes, or use the 
 canned vegetables. Chop one pint of fresh red peppers, or 
 one-third that quantity of dried ones ; peel and chop half 
 a pint of onions ; put these ingredients into a saucepan with 
 half a pound of brown sugar, a' pint and a half of vinegar, 
 a quarter of an ounce each of ground cloves and cinnamon, 
 an eighth of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace, and 
 two ounces of salt ; boil all these ingredients together gently 
 for three hours, stirring them frequently to prevent burning, 
 and then cool the sauce, and seal it up in wide-mouthed 
 glass bottles. 
 
26o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CHOW-CHOW. 
 
 Remove the defective and green outer leaves of firm 
 white cabbages, and shave enough to fill a four-quart meas- 
 ure ; measure an equal quantity each of green tomatoes, 
 small green cucumbers, and green peppers, and slice them 
 thin, after wiping them with a wet cloth; put them into 
 earthen or wooden vessels, sprinkling a pint of salt among 
 them ; let them stand over night ; drain them the next day, 
 put them into a preserving-kettle with a pint of small red 
 peppers and the following spices : one ounce each of whole 
 mace, peppercorns, mustard-seed, and powdered tumeric; 
 half an ounce each of whole cloves, celery-seed, and grated 
 horseradish ; and sufficient vinegar to cover them ; boil them 
 gently for half an hour, and then cool them, and put them up 
 in earthen or glass jars with close covers. 
 
 PICKLED CABBAGE. 
 
 Remove the outer leaves and the tough parts of the stalks 
 from four large heads of firm white cabbage ; shave it, and 
 put it into an earthen jar or a wooden tub, sprinkling about 
 half a pint of salt through it, and let it stand over night ; the 
 next day draw off the brine, put the cabbage over the fire, 
 with four onions peeled and chopped, four ounces of mus- 
 tard-seed, two ounces each of ground mustard, celery-seed, 
 and tumeric, one ounce each of whole mace, cloves, allspice, 
 and pepper, two pounds of brown sugar, and enough vinegar 
 to cover the cabbage ; boil all these ingredients together 
 until the stalks of the cabbage are tender; then cool the 
 pickle, and put it up in air-tight jars. 
 
 PICKLED TOMATOES. 
 
 Use small yellow tomatoes, button onions, and very small 
 dwarf red peppers ; half a cupful of red peppers to three 
 
RELIStlES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 261 
 
 quarts of tomatoes and one quart of onions j prick the 
 tomatoes with a needle, put them into enough cold brine 
 to cover them (the brine being made by dissolving as much 
 salt in cold water as the water will receive), and let them 
 stand for a week. On the fifth day peel the onions, taking 
 care not to cut them too closely at the root and top, and 
 let them stand two days in the same kind of brine. At the 
 end of a week drain the tomatoes and onions, wipe them on 
 a clean cloth, and put them into quart glass or earthen jars 
 with the peppers ; fill one jar with cold vinegar, and pour 
 it out again, in order to ascertain the quantity required ; 
 use four times that quantity; with the vinegar put a cupful 
 of brown sugar, a tablespoonful each of whole allspice, 
 cloves, and cinnamon, and heat it over the fire until it is 
 scalding hot ; then cool it, and pour it into the jars, dividing 
 the spice among them ; seal the jars, and keep them in a 
 cool, dark place. Small red tomatoes, or green ones, can 
 be put up in the same way ; unless the green ones are very 
 small, they should be quartered or sliced. 
 
 RIPE TOMATO PICKLES. 
 
 Choose firm, small, round, ripe tomatoes ; wash them, 
 prick them with a large needle, and let them stand for a 
 week in cold water containing as much salt as it will dis- 
 solve. Then wash them in cold water, and drain them over 
 night. Put them into an earthen jar, sprinkling among them 
 half a cupful of mustard-seed, and two red-pepper pods 
 chopped, for each gallon of tomatoes ; cover them with cold 
 vinegar ; put a close cover on the jar, and keep them in a 
 cool, dark place. 
 
 SWEET PICKLE OF BEETS. 
 
 Carefully wash half a dozen beets without breaking the 
 skin or trimming off the roots or stalks ; put them over 
 the fire in enough boiling water to cover them, and boil them 
 
262 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Steadily until they are tender enough to yield when pressed 
 between the fingers ; then rub off the skins with a wet towel, 
 and slice the beets ; put over the fire a pint of vinegar, a 
 tablespoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, a blade 
 of mace, a small stick of cinnamon, and a pound of brown 
 sugar; stir all these ingredients until the sugar is melted 
 and the pickle is scalding hot ; then pour it over the beets, 
 and let them cool ; after they are cool, they will be ready 
 for use. 
 
 PICKLED ONIONS. 
 
 As these are the most wholesome pickles that can be 
 made, care should be given to their preparation. Choose 
 them small, of even size, and perfectly round. Peel them 
 without cutting the tops and roots so closely as to break 
 them apart; as fast as they are peeled, drop them into ' 
 strongly salted cold water, and let them stand in it for 
 twenty-four hours. Then drain them on sieves, dry each 
 one with a cloth, and drop them into glass jars. As soon 
 as one jar is filled, put in all the cold vinegar it will hold, 
 pour it out again, and measure it, allowing as much more 
 vinegar for every jar; heat the vinegar scalding hot, with 
 whole cloves, cinnamon, mace, and peppercorns, using 
 about a level tablespoonful of mixed spice for each quart 
 jar of onions ; let the vinegar cool, and then pour it into 
 the jars, dividing the spice among them. Cover the jars 
 from the dust. On the second and third days, pour out 
 the vinegar, scald it again, and when cold pour it again 
 over the onions. The third day, seal the jars securely from 
 the air. 
 
 GRATED CUCUMBER PICKLE. 
 
 In the season of fresh cucumbers, use them, first peeling 
 them ; in winter, use salted or pickled cucumbers. Grate 
 the cucumbers on a coarse grater, and if the fresh vegetable 
 is used, squeeze out nearly all of the juice ; season the pulp 
 
RELISHES {HORS-D'CEUVRES). 263 
 
 highly with salt and pepper, and pack it into glass jars; 
 pour strong cold vinegar in, quite filling the jars, and then 
 seal them air-tight. Use after about a week. 
 
 The character of the pickle can be varied by adding to 
 the grated cucumber one-fourth its quantity of grated green 
 peppers, without the seeds, or of white onions peeled and 
 grated. 
 
 SPICED GHERKINS. 
 
 Use small gherkins. Wash them in cold water, and cover 
 them with cold .brine strong enough to float an egg, for three 
 days ; then drain them ; line a preserving-kettle with green 
 grape-leaves ; put the gherkins into it in layers with more 
 leaves, and cover them with leaves ; sprinkle a little pulver- 
 ized alum between the layers (a piece of alum the size of a 
 small grain of corn will be enough for each pound of gher- 
 kins) ; pour into the kettle just enough cold water to cover 
 the top layer of leaves, spread a clean cloth over the top 
 of the kettle, and put on the cover, placing a weight on it 
 to keep it in place ; put the kettle on the back of the stove, 
 where its contents will heat gradually, and let them steam, 
 without boiling, for three hours ; then lay the gherkins in 
 cold water for an hour : if one treatment does not green the 
 gherkins sufficiently, repeat it. After the gherkins are green, 
 put them into earthen jars; put over the fire sufficient 
 vinegar to cover them, allowing half a pound of sugar and 
 half an ounce of mixed whole cloves, allspice, peppercorns, 
 mace, and cinnamon, to each quart of vinegar ; as soon as 
 the vinegar is scalding hot, pour it over the gherkins ; when 
 they are cold, seal them from the air. They will be ready to 
 use in about a week. 
 
 The omission of the sugar and spice will give a good kind 
 of pickled gherkins. 
 
 Ordinary sized cucumbers can be pickled or spiced in the 
 same way ; the greening with the grape-leaves may be omitted. 
 
264 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PICKLED MARTINOES. 
 
 Choose the vegetable tender enough to admit the head 
 of a pin without much pressure ; wash the pods in cold 
 water, and then let them stand for a week in a brine salt 
 enough to float an egg ; at the end of a week, boil together 
 vinegar enough to cover the pickles, allowing half a cupful 
 of mixed whole spices to a quart of vinegar ; take the pods 
 from the brine, wipe them with a dry towel, lay them in 
 earthen jars, and pour the hot vinegar and spices over them ; 
 when they are cold, cover them, and let them stand until 
 they are saturated with the vinegar, then use them. 
 
 PICKLED PEACHES. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound peaches of medium size ; brush 
 them all over with a soft brush. Boil together six quarts 
 of water and a pint of coarse salt, and skim it until it is 
 clear ; then cool it : the quantity may be increased or 
 diminished to suit the quantity of peaches, enough being 
 used to cover the peaches ; but this proportion of salt and 
 water must be observed. When the brine is cold, put the 
 peaches into it, and let them stand forty-eight hours ; then 
 rinse them in clean water, dry them on a soft towel, and 
 stick half a dozen cloves in each one. Boil, and skim till 
 clear, as much vinegar as will well cover the peaches, — the 
 quantity may be gauged by measuring the brine — allowing 
 for each quart of vinegar, four blades of mace and a quarter 
 of a-n ounce of stick-cinnamon ; when the vinegar has boiled 
 about fifteen minutes, put in the peaches, and remove the 
 preserving-kettle containing them to the back of the fire, 
 where its contents will not boilj let the peaches stand in 
 the hot vinegar for five minutes, and then put both peaches 
 and vinegar at once into glass jars, and seal them air- 
 tight. 
 
RELISHES (HORS-D'CEUVRES). 26$ 
 
 Sweet pickled peaches are made by allowing a pound 
 of brown sugar to each pint of vinegar, boiling the sugar 
 with the vinegar and spices. 
 
 PEACH MANGOES. 
 
 Prepare a brine as directed in the recipe for pickled 
 peaches. Choose fresh, sound peaches, brush them with a 
 soft brush, and lay them in the cold brine for three days. 
 Then remove them from the brine, cut a piece out of the 
 top of each one, and take out the stone without enlarging 
 the hole. For two dozen large peaches, mix together two 
 pounds of brown sugar, one onion, and a clove of garlic 
 chopped fine, four ounces each of grated horse-radish and 
 white mustard-seed, one ounce of powdered cinnamon, and 
 half an ounce each of ground cloves, mace, and tumeric. 
 Use sufficient salad-oil to moisten these ingredients. Fill 
 the peaches with them ; close the cut with a piece of peach, 
 and either sew or tie it in place. Put the stuffed peaches 
 into glass jars, cover them with cold vinegar, pour two 
 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in each jar, and seal them air- 
 tight. 
 
 DAMSON SAUCE FOR MEATS. 
 
 This sauce is a good substitute for currant-jelly when 
 required for game, birds, and venison. To prepare it, wash 
 and put in a preserve-kettle seven pounds of damson 
 plums, one pint of vinegar, and three pounds and a half 
 of brown sugar, and let them heat slowly, and boil gently 
 until the skins begin to burst ; then at once skim the plums 
 from the sirup ; put into it four inches of stick-cinnamon, 
 a teaspoonful of whole cloves, and two blades of mace, and 
 continue to boil it until a little of it jellies, when cooled, on 
 a saucer; put the damsons into jars, strain the sirup, and 
 pour it over them hot ; when cool, close the jars, and seal 
 them air-tight. 
 
266 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CIDER APPLE-SAUCE. 
 
 Pare juicy, tart apples, quarter and core them, placft 
 them in a porcelain-lined preserve-kettle, pour over them 
 enough sweet cider to cover them, and stew them to a 
 pulp; if all the cider is absorbed before the apples are 
 done, add a Uttle more ; a little spice in powder may be 
 added if the flavor is liked. The sauce may be made in 
 quantities, as it will keep well. 
 
 QUINCE AND APPLE BUTTER. 
 
 Use twice as many sour apples as quinces, and half their 
 combined weight in sugar ; pare, quarter, and core the 
 quinces, tying the cores and peelings in a thin cloth ; put 
 both quinces and cores in a porcelain-lined kettle with just 
 enough cold water to cover them, and boil them gently until 
 they begin to grow tender ; meantime peel, quarter, and 
 core the apples, add them to the quinces, and boil them to 
 a pulp : when the fruit is reduced to a pulp, add the sugar, 
 boil the butter to the consistency of thick marmalade, stir- 
 ring it constantly to prevent burning, and then cool it, and 
 put it up as directed in the recipes for pickles and sauces. 
 
 PUMPKIN SAUCE. 
 
 When apples are dear and scarce, a very good sauce can 
 be made with pumpkin, peeled and cooked as directed in 
 the recipe for cider apple-sauce. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 SIDE-DISHES OF MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME 
 
 (Entries). 
 
 AMONG the entrees are classed not oiily the smaller 
 meat dishes suitable for this service at dinners where 
 several courses are used, but also many excellent breakfast 
 ,^nd luncheon dishes. Often when there are only two or 
 three persons for dinner, who do not care for an elaborate 
 service, some hot meat entree, with one or two vegetables 
 and a simple dessert, makes up the meal. But since health 
 so largely depends upon a variety in food, it is not well to 
 limit the service habitually, although many of the side-dishes 
 are attractive because they can easily be prepared from in- 
 expensive materials. In this connection the fact should be 
 remembered, that many soups and salads are also inexpen- 
 sive, and they are both unquestionably most wholesome and 
 appetizing. 
 
 The side-dishes generally admit of garnishes ; and many 
 of them which are fried can be tastefully arranged upon 
 napkins, with lemon and parsley. The imported lace papers 
 replace napkins very prettily in the service of entrees, both 
 hot and cold. 
 
 Many entrees are larded with larding pork or bacon. As 
 there are some objections to its use, it may, to a degree, be 
 replaced by strips of tongue boiled tender ; or of uncooked 
 beef-fat, if any can be found tough enough to bear the strain 
 of pulling it through the raw meat. 
 
 267 
 
268 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BBOILED ROUND OF BEEF. 
 
 Use a tender round-steak, cut an inch and a half thick ; 
 cut it in strips an inch and a half square and about four 
 inches long ; dip the strips in melted butter seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, put them, between the bars of a double 
 wire gridiron, and quickly broil them over a very hot fire ; 
 when they are done, put them on a hot dish, pour the 
 remainder of the melted butter and seasoning over them, 
 and serve them hot at once. 
 
 PORTERHOUSE STEAK BROILED. 
 
 The porterhouse steak is cut from the upper part of the 
 sirloin where there is a large proportion of tenderloin. 
 Wipe the steak with a damp cloth, or scrape it with the 
 back of a knife, to remove the bone-dust, but do not wash 
 it; never pound or cut the fibres to make them tender, 
 because that permits the juice to escape. Brown the steak 
 as close to the fire as it can be put without burning, first on 
 one side, and then on the other, and then put it far enough 
 from the fire to cook it to the desired degree without burn- 
 ing it ; after the steak is done, put it on a hot platter, season 
 it with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve it at once. 
 
 When beefsteak is known to be tough before cooking, it 
 can be made tender by being put in a dish with enough 
 salad-oil and vinegar to moisten the under side. After lying 
 in the oil and vinegar for several hours, it should be turned, 
 and again allowed to stand : it should be cooked without 
 wiping off the oil and vinegar. 
 
 FRIED BEEFSTEAK WITH ONION SAUCE. 
 
 Choose a tender steak cut from the round : if the beef 
 is not tender, put it, early in the evening, on a meat-dish 
 containing sufficient sweet salad-oil and vinegar mixed to- 
 
SWE-DISHES (entries). 269 
 
 gether to cover the dish, and thoroughly moisten both sides 
 of the beefsteak ; turn the steak over at bedtime. In the 
 morning, heat a frying-pan hot eiiough to sizz when the steak 
 touches it ; put in the steak, and quickly brown it on both 
 sides ; when it is brown, set the pan where the heat is not 
 too great, and cook the steak to the required degree ; mean- 
 time fry the onions as directed in the recipe given below. 
 When the beefsteak is done, put it on a hot dish, season it 
 palatably with salt and pepper, and keep it hot. Into the 
 pan where the beefsteak was fried, put the fried onions and 
 all the gravy they yield, add sufficient hot water to make 
 them semi-liquid; break them up with a fork, season the 
 sauce palatably with salt and pepper, pour it over the beef- 
 steak, and serve the dish hot. 
 
 BROWN ONION SAUCE. 
 
 Peel one pint of onions, slice them, put them into a frying- 
 pan with two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and fry them 
 brown ; then add a pint of any good gravy or broth, and a 
 palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; serve this sauce 
 with broiled or fried beefsteak or chops. 
 
 BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS. 
 
 Peel and slice a dozen white onions, put them over the 
 fire in salted boiling water, and boil them for half an hour. 
 Meantime heat a frying-pan, and when it is quite hot put 
 into it a porterhouse steak cut an inch thick ; quickly cook 
 the steak six minutes on each side, and then season it with 
 salt and pepper ; drain the onions, put them into the pan 
 with the beefsteak, let them fry for two or three minutes, 
 and then serve them on a hot dish laid over the beefsteak ; 
 pour all the gravy in the pan over them. 
 
 Cold mashed potatoes made into little cakes and fried, 
 and fried parsneps, make good accompaniments for beefsteak 
 and onions. 
 
270 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 COLD RdAST BEEF BROILED. 
 
 Cut rare roast beef in slices half an inch thick, lay them 
 for half an hour on a plate containing enough salad-oil and 
 vinegar to moisten the beef, allowing one tablespoonful of 
 vinegar to three of oil. Dust the meat with pepper ; turn 
 the slices at the end of a half- hour, and in an hour broil 
 them over a hot fire ; do not wipe off the oil and vinegar 
 before broiling the beef. Broil the beef very quickly at a 
 hot fire, and serve it at once ; a little butter, salt, and pepper 
 can be used to season the broiled beef; and it may be 
 garnished, if desired, with lemon, parsley, or watercress, or 
 served with a dish of sliced fresh tomatoes or cucumbers. 
 Freshly grated horseradish, dressed with vinegar and salt, is 
 excellent with roast beef, either hot or cold. The cold beef 
 may be simply sliced, broiled, and seasoned with salt, pep- 
 per, and butter. 
 
 COLD BOAST BEEF FRIED. 
 
 This dish is best when it is prepared in a chafing-dish 
 upon the table, for its excellence depends upon its being 
 served the moment it is done. Have the chafing-dish hot ; 
 cut the cold beef in thick slices ; use just enough butter to 
 prevent burning; put the beef into the chafing-dish, and 
 heat it on both sides ; as soon as it is hot, season it with 
 salt, pepper, and either mustard, Worcestershire or walnut 
 sauce, or tomato-catsup. 
 
 HOW TO CLEAN TRIPE. 
 
 The tripe marketed in cities is already cleaned and 
 boiled, and only needs to be scalded with boiling water, 
 and scraped with the back of a knife, before finally dressing 
 it for the table. But in the country, it may sometimes be 
 necessary for the housewife to understand the entire process 
 of preparing it for cooking. Tripe consists of the walls and 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entries). 27 1 
 
 fatty portions of the stomachs of calves and cows, carefully 
 cleansed and partly cooked by boiling. It is cleaned both 
 with lime-water and with lye made from wood-ashes. 
 When lime is used, it should be mixed with sufficient cold 
 water to make it entirely liquid. After the stomach is 
 emptied, it should be sewed up so that no lime can pene- 
 trate it, and allowed to remain in the lime-water for half an 
 hour before scraping it. The lime must be washed off, or it 
 will bum the hands. When ashes are used, the stomach is 
 to be thickly sprinkled with them after it is emptied, and 
 washed in plenty of cold water ; and it is put into a jar or 
 firkin with enough boiling water to cover it, and remains in 
 the lye thus formed for five or six hours before it is scraped. 
 When neither lime nor ashes are available, the tripe must be 
 repeatedly scalded with boiUng salted water, and scraped 
 until it is clear : after that it must be laid in cold salted 
 water for a week, the water being changed every day. In 
 treating the tripe with lime-water or lye, the dark surface 
 can be removed by several scaldings and scrapings. The 
 tripe should then be left in salted cold water for twenty-four 
 hours ; after that it will be ready to be washed in fresh 
 water, and boiled in salted boiling water, until it begins to 
 look clear, and is tender enough to permit a broom-straw 
 to be run through it. After tripe has been boiled, it can 
 be kept in an earthen jar, covered with milk and water 
 equally mixed, with sour milk or buttermilk, or with vinegar 
 which has been scalded with plenty of spice, and poured 
 upon the tripe while hot. 
 
 The tripe bought already prepared should be well washed 
 in plenty of cold salted water, and then boiled until tender 
 in salted boiling water ; after that it can be pickled in scald- 
 ing-hot spiced vinegar, or kept in milk or buttermilk for 
 several days. There are many ways of cooking tripe ; and 
 as it is nutritious and digestible, as well as cheap, it is an 
 
272 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 excellent winter food, when some of the meats most gener- 
 ally used are scarce and expensive. If it is prepared for the 
 table immediately after the first boiling, it will require rather 
 high seasoning. 
 
 Tripe is usually broiled or fried, sometimes being first 
 breaded, or rolled in flour. 
 
 ROLLS OF TRIPE, CREOLE STYLE. 
 
 Chop very fine one small clove of garlic, peel and slice 
 one medium-sized onion and a pint of tomatoes, and fry 
 them with a pound of sausage-meat until the meat begins to 
 brown ; meantime, scald a pound of tripe, scrape it with the 
 
 Rolls of Tripe, Creole Stale. 
 
 back of a knife, and cut it in strips two inches wide and 
 about five long. When the sausage-meat is done, season it 
 palatably, put it into the pieces of tripe, roll them up, and tie 
 them compactly ; put a frying-pan over the fire with enough 
 butter to cover the bottom, and when it begins to brown put 
 in the rolls of tripe, and quickly brown them ; also brown 
 some Httle balls of sausage-meat ; as the tripe is browning, 
 dredge a little flour over it ; when the tripe is brown, lay it 
 on a dish, pour a little hot water into the pan, stir it about 
 to make a sauce ; season the sauce palatably with salt and 
 pepper, let it boil, pour it on a hot platter, lay the tripe on 
 it as shown in the accompanying cut, with the sausage-meat 
 balls in the middle. 
 
SWE-D/S/IES {ENTR£ES). 273 
 
 BEEF-KIDNEY BROILED WITH BACON. 
 
 Wash a fresh beef-kidney, and cut it in small slices about 
 quarter of an inch thick, rejecting all the membranes and 
 fat; cut as many small thin sUces of bacon as there are 
 pieces of kidney, and pvt them alternately on small metal 
 skewers ; lay the skewers, thus filled with kidney and bacon, 
 between the bars of a buttered double wire gridiron, and 
 broil them quickly over a hot fire until the bacon is brown ; 
 then dust them with salt and pepper, and serve them at 
 once. The little skewers are transferred to a hot dish, and 
 laid on the plates in serving them at table : serve fresh but- 
 ter with them. 
 
 BEEF-KIDNEY STEWED. 
 
 Peel and slice a small onion ; cut a beef-kidney in small 
 slices, and put it over the fire in a frying-pan with the onion 
 and two tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown it ; when the 
 kidney is brown, dust over it a tablespoonful of flour, and 
 stir it until the flour is brown, then pour in a pint of boiling 
 water, season the kidney with salt and pepper, and stew it 
 gently for ten minutes ; then add a tablespoonful of finely 
 chopped parsley, and a glass of Madeira, and serve the kid- 
 ney. The entire operation should be finished in about 
 twenty minutes, because kidney grows tough if cooked too 
 long. If the wine and parsley are not available, use instead 
 two tablespoonfuls of any good table sauce or vinegar. 
 
 FRIED LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH. 
 
 Thoroughly wash two quarts of spinach, trim away the 
 roots and tough stalks, and let it stand in cold water ; slice 
 two pounds of calfs liver about half an inch thick; pour 
 boiling water upon it, let it stand until cool enough to per- 
 mit the skin to be stripped off, then dry it on a cloth, and 
 roll it in flour seasoned with salt and pepper ; slice a quar- 
 
274 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ter of a pound of bacon very thin, put it over the fire in a 
 frying-pan, and fry it until it begins to crisp ; as soon as the 
 bacon is put over the fire, drain the spinach, put it to boil 
 in a large kettle half full of salted boiling water, and boil it 
 fast until it is tender, which will be in about five minutes ; as 
 soon as the spinach is tender, drain it, and throw it into 
 plenty of cold salted water ; as soon as the bacon is crisp, 
 take it up on a hot dish, and keep it hot ; if there is half an 
 inch of dripping in the frying-pan, put in the liver at once, 
 or, if the quantity is scant, add a little lard, and when it is 
 hot put in the liver ; fry the liver brown on both sides, cook- 
 ing it as quickly and thoroughly as possible, and seasoning 
 it with pepper and salt ; when the liver is done, put it on the 
 hot dish with the bacon, and keep it hot. Drain the spin- 
 ach, put it into the frying-pan with the drippings, and stir it 
 over the fire until it is hot ; then turn it out on a hot platter, 
 lay the liver and bacon on the spinach, and serve the dish 
 hot at once. 
 
 The liver may be fried with the bacon, and served without 
 the spinach. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER ROLLS. 
 
 Have a calPs liver sliced in long, even-size slices ; scald 
 it, and strip it off the skin ; lay the slices of liver on the 
 table, and season them with salt and pepper ; season half a 
 pound of sausage-meat, or chopped raw veal, highly with 
 salt, pepper, and any powdered sweet herb except sage ; 
 mix a raw egg with it, and then spread it over the slices of 
 liver ; roll the slices, and tie them with string ; put into a 
 frying-pan over the fire, enough butter or beef-dripping to ' 
 cover the bottom, and let it heat ; when it begins to brown, 
 put in the rolls of liver, and brown them. While the liver- 
 rolls are browning, carefully wash a quart of new potatoes ; 
 when the liver-rolls are brown, put them into an earthen 
 baking-dish with the potatoes ; stir two tablespoonfuls of 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 2/5 
 
 flour into the frying-pan, and brown it ; then gradually stir 
 in a quart of boiling water, season this gravy highly with 
 salt and pepper, let it boil, and then pour it into the dish 
 with the liver and potatoes ; place the dish in a moderate 
 oven, and bake its contents for about half an hour, or 
 until the potatoes are done ; then serve hot, in the same 
 dish. 
 
 After the liver-rolls have been browned, as directed above, 
 they can be dusted over with flour, and again browned, and 
 covered with boiling water, and stewed until tender in the 
 gravy thus made. When they are tender and palatably sea- 
 soned, they may be served with a dish of plain boiled 
 potatoes. 
 
 CUTLETS CLOUT^ WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 The first engraving represents a cutlet from the rack or 
 neck, trimmed and studded, or doute, with truffles. The 
 meat must be tender, and the surface studded which is to 
 
 Cutlet Studded with Truffles. 
 
 be dished outward. The cutlets are best when braised, or 
 gently stewed in a rich brown sauce, made as described in 
 the recipe for garnished fricandeau of veal. The truffles 
 are cut as represented in the second picture, and a small 
 deep hole is made in the. lean part of the cutlets to receive 
 them. The cutlets are sometimes wrapped in writing-paper 
 
376' PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 before they are. braised, to keep the truffles in place. They 
 may be served in a circle on a little of the sauce, or with 
 
 studs for Outlets Clouti with Truffes. 
 
 a ragoAt of mushrooms and truffles cooked with them ; or 
 still more elaborately, as shown in another recipe. 
 
 CUTLETS WITH TRUFFLES. GARNISHED. 
 
 While the studded cutlets described in the recipe for 
 cutlets cloute with truffles are being cooked, cut a large circle 
 
 Cutlets Cloute with Truffles Garnished. 
 
 from the bottom of a loaf of stale bread ; from the centre ot 
 the loaf cut out a croustade, or vase, like that shown in the 
 
SIDE-DISHES {EJVrii£ES). 277 
 
 picture, and fry them light brown in a large frying-kettle 
 nearly full of fat, so that they can be entirely immersed. 
 Set the croustade upo^ the circle laid on a dish, arrange the 
 cutlets around it after they are cooked, and fill the hollow 
 top of the croustade with some truffles heated in the sauce 
 with the cutlets. 
 
 A deft hand, an eye for proportion, and a very sharp 
 small knife, all are required to make a well- shaped croustade. 
 It may be less elaborate than the one shown in the picture. 
 
 V-EAL CUTLET BREADED, WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut about two pounds of veal-cutlet from the leg, in small 
 slices ; season them with pepper and salt, roll them in 
 cracker-dust, then dip them in beaten egg, and roll them 
 again in cracker-dust. Have ready upon the fire a dripping- 
 pan containing smoking-hot fat half an inch deep ; put the 
 veal into the hot fat, and fry it brown on both sides. While 
 the veal is frying, wipe half a dozen large firm tomatoes with 
 a damp cloth, slice them about half an inch thick, roll them 
 in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, and fry them brown 
 in the pan with the veal. Serve both veal and tomatoes on 
 the same dish, with the tomatoes laid neatly in a circle 
 around the veal. 
 
 The veal-cutlets may be breaded and fried, and served 
 without the tomatoes. 
 
 VEAL POT-PIE. 
 
 Cut two pounds of the breast of veal in pieces about an 
 inch square, after wiping the entire piece of meat with a 
 damp towel ; put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, 
 with three cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, and a dozen pepper- 
 corns or a small red pepper ; let it slowly reach the boiling 
 point, removing all scum as it rises. When the broth is quite 
 free from scum, cover the saucepan containing it, and set it 
 
278 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 where its contents can simmer gently for about two hours. 
 Meantime, peel a quart of small potatoes, and lay thepi in 
 cold water ; at the end of two hours, put them with the veal 
 to boil. Then quickly sift together one quart of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, and two of baking-powder ; mix them to 
 a soft dough with about a pint of cold milk or water, using 
 no more than is required to just wet the flour; put this 
 dough at once into the saucepan with the veal and pot^oes, 
 either in one flat piece laid on the top of these ingredients, 
 or by the tablespoonfiil, wetting the spoon in the broth be- 
 fore using it to form each dumpling. Cover the saucepan, 
 and boil its contents steadily for twenty minutes. Then 
 serve the pot-pie hot. If the gravy is liked rather rich, stir 
 into it the yolks of a couple of raw eggs before sending to 
 the table. In the old-fashioned pot-pie, which was cooked 
 by the general heat of a moderate fire of wood, the entire 
 bottom and sides of the dinner-pot in which it was made 
 were lined with the crust, and the meat, already partly 
 cooked, was put into the crust. With the moderate heat, it 
 was possible to brown the crust without burning it ; but with 
 our modern cooking apparatus, this would be a doubtful 
 experiment to attempt. 
 
 FRICANDEAU OF VEAL, LARDED. 
 
 'Y\\e. fricandeau of veal is properly made from that round 
 muscle which lies upon the inner side of the leg of veal, and 
 is called the noix or cushion. To obtain it, the rest of the 
 leg must be used for other dishes, which do not require 
 ipecial cuts ; a thick cutlet is sometimes used as a frican- 
 deau. Use the medium-sized larding-needle, and strips of 
 fat salt pork cut less than quarter of an inch square, and two 
 inches long, ; put the strips of pork, or lardoons, one by one 
 into the split end of the needle, and take a succession of 
 stitches about a quarter of an inch long and deep in the upper 
 
SIDE-DISHES {EN^TR^ES). 279 
 
 surface of the veal, in a line down the centre ; then make 
 other lines of lardoons on both sides of the centre line, let- 
 ting the ends of the lardoons come between each other, as 
 shown in the first picture, until the upper surface of the veal 
 is thickly larded ; after the veal is larded, it may be braised 
 
 Larded Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 or baked, and will then present the appearance shown in 
 the second picture. The fricandeau may be baked on a 
 bed of vegetables, which can subsequently be rubbed 
 through a sieve with a potato-masher, and form the basis 
 of a brown gravy, or garnished after cooking with green 
 
 Larded Fricandeau after cootting. 
 
 peas or spinach, or served with a brown mushroom sauce. 
 A laided fricandeau is a choice dish, even when it is made 
 from a thick cutlet. The larded fricandeaux shown in the 
 third illustration are garnished with button mushrooms and 
 truffles. 
 
28o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 When it is not desirable to use lardoons of pork or bacon, 
 strips of cold boiled tongue may replace them ; or of beef- 
 fat, if it can be found sufficiently tough to permit it to be 
 pulled through the rather dense fibre of uncooked meat. 
 In larding veal, the udder fat, that portion which is usually 
 attached to the end of veal cutlet cut from the leg, makes 
 passable lardoons. This fat is rather more substantial than 
 that which lies about the kidneys, and which would crumble 
 if drawn into uncooked meat. If the thin fat membrane, 
 that is sometimes spread over spring lamb, is cut in small 
 squares, and then rolled in the shape of lardoons, it may be 
 used instead of pork. 
 
 LARDED FRICANDEAUX, GARNISHED. 
 
 After a couple of fricandeaux have been larded and 
 cooked, as directed in the recipe for \zxA&A fricandeati, they 
 may be garnished elaborately, as shown in the accompanying 
 
 Larded Fricandeaux, Garnished. 
 
 engraving. The larding in this case is done by letting the 
 ends of the lardoons meet like the old stitch in sewing 
 called herring-bone : the fricandeaux are the cushions or 
 noix; the garnish v> of truffles and button mushrooms, 
 
SIDE-DISHES (entries). 28 1 
 
 heated in brown sauce ; and the alternate pieces of the dish 
 are large sweetbreads, studded with truffles cut in pointed 
 cubes, and inserted in the sweetbreads after they are 
 blanched. The upper ornament is a hatelet, or garnished 
 skewer, holding a cockscomb and a large truffle in place on 
 the top of the centrepiece of fried bread. The base of the 
 aish is a circle of fried bread, garnished with pieces of_ 
 truffle set with cold aspic jelly, or with the white of egg 
 upon the outer edge of the bread. The brown sauce may 
 be made by browning together a tablespoonful each of 
 butter and flour, and then gradually stirring with them the 
 liquor from the canned mushrooms and truffles, and enough 
 broth to make a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon; 
 season the sauce with salt and cayenne, add a glass of wine 
 to it, and then heat in it the sweetbreads and the garnish. 
 
 SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. 
 
 First blanch the sweetbreads, by soaking them in cold 
 salted water for an hour, and bringing them to the boiling 
 point in more cold salted water ; then lay them in cold 
 water to cool them, and afterward trim off all the flesh and 
 surrounding membrane ; have ready an equal quantity of 
 cold tongue or ham ; for a pint of this mixture, put into a 
 saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of 
 grated onion, and let them begin to color ; then stir in two 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a pint of boiling 
 water, and let the sauce thus made boil; meantime chop 
 or grate the sweetbreads or ham ; add them to the sauce, 
 and let the mixture boil, stirring it all the time ; when the 
 croquette mixture boils, draw it to the side of the fire, stir 
 in the yolks of three raw eggs, and pour it on an oiled dish 
 to cool. Have ready a frying-kettle half full of fat over the 
 fire, a dish containing two or three eggs beaten smooth, and 
 a large platter full of cracker-dust or bread-crumbs ; wet the 
 
282 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 hands with cold water, and make the croquette mixture 
 up in small cork-shaped rolls; put the croquettes first in 
 the cracker-dust, then into the beaten egg, and again in the 
 cracker-dust; smooth them on the outside, and fry them 
 golden brown in the hot fat ; when the croquettes are nicely 
 browned, put them on brown paper for a moment to free 
 them from grease, and then serve them hot. A lemon sliced, 
 or some, fresh parsley, will make a good garnish for sweet- 
 bread croquettes. 
 
 srain croquettes 
 
 Can be made in tlie same way 
 
 BROILED SWEETBREADS. 
 
 For this dish, the sweetbreads may be used either blanched 
 or simply washed and trimmed. Split them, dip them in 
 butter melted and seasoned with pepper and salt, lay them 
 between the bars of a double wire gridiron, and broil them 
 over a hot fire until they are a delicate brown color on both 
 sides ; serve them hot at once, as they deteriorate by stand- 
 ing after they are cooked. 
 
 FRIED SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Prepare the sweetbreads- by blanching them ; cut them 
 across in slices half an inch thick, and season them lightly 
 with pepper and salt ; have ready over the fire a frying- 
 kettle half full of smoking-hot fat ; roll the slices of sweet- 
 bread in finely sifted cracker or bread crumbs, dip them in 
 beaten egg, roll them again in the crumbs, and then fry 
 them golden brown in the hot fat; when they are done, 
 remove them from the fat with a skimmer, lay them on 
 brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
 then serve them hot. 
 
SIDE-D/SHES {ENTHMES). 283 
 
 SWEETBREADS IN THE CHAFING-DISB. 
 
 If sweetbreads are prepared as directed in the preceding 
 recipe until they are ready to fry, they can be quickly 
 browned at the table in a chafing-dish, just enough butter 
 being used to prevent burning. The more quickly sweet- 
 breads are fried, the better they are ; hence the advantage 
 of cooking them in a chafing-dish. 
 
 RAGOUT OF SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOMS FOR 
 VOL-AU-VENT. 
 
 To make this ragoiif, use carfned button mushrooms, and 
 sweetbreads blanched according to directions given else- 
 where. Cut the mushrooms and sweetbreads into half-inch 
 pieces. For a quart vol-au-vent case, use a can of mush- 
 rooms and two large or four small sweetbreads ; put over 
 the fire, in a thick saucepan, two tablespoonfuls each of flour 
 and butter, and stir them until they begin to bubble ; then 
 gradually stir in the liquor in which the mushrooms were 
 canned, and enough white broth, cream, or milk to make 
 a sauce thick enough to coat the spoon; put the sweet- 
 breads and mushrooms into this sauce, season it palatably 
 with salt and white pepper, and let it simmer until the 
 sweetbreads are entirely white and tender ; if they are good 
 this will be in about five minutes, as they will have been 
 partly cooked in blanching ; the mushrooms are cooked in 
 canning. If when the ragout is done, it has' become too 
 thick, thin it with a litde milk, and see that it is palatably 
 seasoned ; add to it the beaten yolks of two raw eggs, and 
 a glass of wine, and use it for a vol-au-vent as directed in 
 the recipe for ragoUt of oysters for vol-au-vent. 
 
 HOW TO BOIL CALF'S HEAD AND FEET. 
 
 Have the butcher remove the hair (by scalding and scrap- 
 ing) and the teeth and eyes from the head, and split it in 
 
284 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 two pieces without cutting the tongue or brains; lay the 
 brains in cold water containing a handful of salt, until it is 
 time to cook them; thoroughly wash the head in plenty 
 of cold water, carefully scraping the interior of the jiasal 
 passage and the mouth ; have the butcher remove the hair 
 from the feet, by scalding and scraping them, and split them 
 in halves ; put the head, feet, and tongue, over the fire in 
 enough cold water to cover them, with a heaping tablespoon- 
 ful of salt, and a teaspoonful of whole peppercorns, or a 
 small red pepper, and boil them until the bones can be 
 pulled out easily ; the broth in which the head is boiled is 
 to be strained, and saved for soup ; the tongue is to be taken 
 up as soon as it is tender, the skin stripped ofif, and the 
 tongue wrapped in a wet cloth and kept in a cool place 
 until it is wanted. After the brains have lain for an hour 
 in cold water, pull off all the outer membrane, being careful 
 not to break the substance of the brain in removing the 
 membrane from between the folds. When the brain is quite 
 freed from the membrane, put it over the fire in enough 
 cold water to cover it, with a teaspoonful each of salt and 
 whole peppercorns, and let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes ; 
 then cool it, wrap it in a wet cloth, and keep it in a cool 
 place until it is wanted for forcemeat balls for- garnishing 
 the calf s head, made by mixing it with an equal quantity of 
 bread-crumbs, two raw eggs, and salt and pepper, and then 
 either frying or poaching them. If it is desired, the brain 
 may be heated in any good sauce, and served as a separate 
 dish ; or the brain may be made into fritters or croquettes, . 
 like sweetbread croquettes. Recipes follow for serving the 
 tongue and head and feet. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD LIKE TURTLE. 
 
 After a calf 5 l^es^d has been cleaned according to the 
 directions gi^en in the recipe for boiling it, and boiled until 
 
sive-dishes {en^tsMes). 
 
 28s 
 
 tender, it is to be separated into four or six large pieces, 
 the ears cut as shown in the picture, being the centre of 
 two pieces. One large piece from the cheek should be 
 larded, and the brains should be blanched. Four large 
 crawfish should be boiled as directed in the recipe for 
 boiling lobsters ; and some quenelles made from chicken, as 
 directed in the proper recipe. When all these preparations 
 are finished, make a quart of brown mushroom sauce, ac- 
 cording to the recipe given elsewhere ; and boil six eggs 
 hard, and remove the yolks entire. Brown the larded head 
 
 Calfs Head like Turtle. 
 
 in a hot oven, heat the rest of the head in the mushroom 
 sauce, and then arrange the dish as shown in the annexed 
 cut, using a small dish set in a large one for the border, or 
 make the border of freshly baked puff-paste. The quenelles, 
 brains, and egg-yolks are heated with the head, and form 
 the ragoUt which surrounds the large pieces. 
 
 BROILED CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Have ready in a small bowl two tablespoonfuls of butter 
 melted, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful 
 
286 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of pepper; into this mixture dip pieces of boiled calf's 
 head, and then broil them between the bars of a double 
 wire gridiron over a very hot iire. Serve the dish very hot, 
 with a lemon quartered, or a few sprigs of parsley dipped 
 in vinegar. 
 
 The feet may be broiled in the same way, or breaded 
 first, or breaded and fried, or stewed in white or brown 
 sauce. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS. 
 
 Blanch the brains as directed in the recipe for boiling calfs 
 head. Slice them half an inch thipk ; put them into a fry- 
 ing-pan containing half an inch of smoking-hot butter, and 
 quickly fry them brown, taking care not to break them in 
 turning ; when they are nicely browned, season them with 
 salt and pepper, and serve them hot. 
 
 Or, blanch and slice, the brains, and broil them. 
 
 FRIED BRAINS. 
 
 Have the brains prepared as for frying, and then quickly 
 brown them in a chafing-dish at the table, using just enough 
 butter to prevent burning, and seasoning them with salt and 
 pepper. Like sweetbreads, they are best when quickly 
 cooked. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE AND BRAINS. 
 
 Heat in hot water a boiled tongue, and a brain cooked 
 as directed in the recipe for boiled calfs head, keeping the 
 brain as whole as possible. Make a brown gravy by stirring 
 a tablespoonful each of butter and flour over the fire until 
 light brown, and then gradually stirring in a pint of boiling 
 water; season the gravy with a level teaspoonful of salt, 
 quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and a gill of vinegar ; 
 lay the tongue and brain in a hot dish, pour the gravy over 
 them, and serve them at once. 
 
 Or, serve them with tartar sauce, which is made by mixing 
 
SIDE-DISHES {ENTREES). 287 
 
 with a cupful of mayonnaise, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, 
 a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, capers, and pickles, 
 and a teaspoonful of grated onion. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS WITH FINANCIERE RAGOtiT. . 
 
 Make a sauce as directed in the recipe for sweetbread 
 and mushroom ragout, using mushroom essence and white 
 broth. Prepare a cupful each of sweetbreads and mush- 
 rooms as there directed ; cut in pieces a cupful of canned 
 cockscombs, or blanch some fresh ones just as sweetbreads 
 are blanched ; slice a small can of truffles, or enough to 
 make a cupful ; use the same quantity of cock's kidneys, 
 which may be fresh ones blanched like sweetbreads, or 
 canned kidneys ; put all these ingredients into the sauce, 
 season it palatably with salt and white pepper, and simmer 
 the ragout gently for about fifteen minutes ; then add a gill 
 of good Madeira, and use the ragout. This is a very 
 expensive dish, and one not generally used, because the 
 ingredients cannot always be obtained, although in large 
 cities the truffles and cockscombs and kidneys can be 
 bought canned. 
 
 Lamb cutlets may be broiled and served with this ragoAt, 
 or breaded and fried, and then garnished with it. 
 
 BROILED LAMB CUTLETS WITH MINT SAUCE. 
 
 Mix together on a platter four heaping tablespoonfuls 
 :i finely chopped fresh mint, one of sugar, and four of 
 vinegar ; lay lean lamb cutlets on this dressing or pickle, 
 dust them with pepper, let them stand half an hour, and 
 then turn them ; at the end of an hour, put them, without 
 wiping them, between the bars of a buttered double wire 
 gridiron, and broil them quickly over a hot fire; while 
 the cutlets are being broiled, turn the chopped mint from 
 the dish into a saucepan with two more tablespoonfuls of 
 
288 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 sugar and four of vinegar, let these ingredients boil once, 
 and then serve the sauce with the cutlets ; the broiled 
 cutlets are to be served hot, as soon as they are done, on 
 a hot dish, with a little salt, pepper, and butter over them. 
 
 Lamb cutlets may be broiled plain, and dressed with 
 salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 LAMB CUTLETS IN PAPER. 
 
 The accompanying engraving shows a cutlet, trimmed 
 from the rack or neck, and laid upon a sheet of buttered 
 or oiled writing-paper, cut in the shape of a very wide 
 
 Cutlets in Paper. 
 
 heart, ready to be enveloped in the paper; this is done 
 by a series of little folds turned from the edges of the paper, 
 after it is folded over the cutlet, toward the middle, some- 
 what like a hem upon a piece of cloth. Only very delicate 
 cutlets are cooked in paper, or small, choice pieces of fish 
 or game ; all the juice is preserved by the paper. The oil 
 or butter applied to the paper prevents its burning if the 
 cutlet is cooked over a moderate fire. A thin cutlet, or a 
 small bird, generally requires about fifteen minutes to cook 
 medium rare. Articles enclosed in paper for cooking 
 should be served without removing the paper; and then, 
 
SIDE-DISHES (EATTJiJiES). 289 
 
 when the paper is cut, all the gravy or juice of the cutlet 
 will be upon the plate. A little care will enable any one 
 to cook papered dishes successfully. 
 
 FRIZZLED MUTTON. 
 
 Shave a pound of mutton from a leg which has hung at 
 least six weeks ; put over the fire in a frying-pan two table- 
 spoonfuls each of butter and currant-jelly, and when they 
 are melted, put in the shaved mutton; season it rather 
 highly with salt and pepper, add to it a tablespoonful of 
 French mustard, and let it cook for five minutes, stirring it 
 to prevent burning and insure even cooking. Serve it very 
 hot. Frizzled mutton can be cooked in a chafing-dish at 
 the table. 
 
 BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 
 
 After the chops are trimmed, put them as close to the 
 fire as possible, and quickly brown them on both sides ; 
 after the chops are browned, move the gridiron containing 
 them far enough from the fire to prevent burning, and cook 
 them to the desired degree ; at a hot fire, chops an inch 
 thick will cook medium rare in about ten minutes ; after 
 the chops are done, season them with salt and pepper, put 
 a little butter over them, and serve them hot. . 
 
 FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. 
 
 Put a frying-pan over the fire, and heat it so that the 
 chops will siss when they are put into it. After the chops 
 are trimmed, put them into the hot pan, and quickly brown 
 them on both sides ; chops generally have enough fat upon 
 them to prevent burning ; when the fat is excessive, most 
 of it should be cut off, and tried out to use as drippings ; 
 after the chops are cooked to the desired degree, season 
 them with salt, pepper, and a little butter, and serve them 
 hot. If the pan is hot enough, they will cook medium rare 
 in about twelve minutes. 
 
390 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PAPER FRILLS FOR THE BONES OF CHOPS, ETC. 
 
 A little practice will enable any one, with a careful touch, 
 to make quite pretty paper frills for garnishing. To make 
 the frill shown in the first figure of the illustration, cut a 
 
 Paper Frills for Qarnlshing Meat-Bonea. 
 
 Strip of paper twelve inches long and four wide; fold it 
 lengthwise, holding the folded side towards you, and with 
 scissors cut inward along the folded edge to the depth of 
 an inch, making a sort of double fringe ; fold the paper 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entrees). 29 1 
 
 around the end of a pencil, as shown in the cut, and secure 
 it with gum. To make the double frill at the bottom of 
 the picture, cut a circle of paper, six or seven inches in 
 diameter ; fold it through the middle, and repeat the fold- 
 ing three times more until a long triangle is formed of 
 sixteen thicknesses of paper; take the folds between the 
 left thumb and forefinger ; with scissors cut from the lower 
 ends of the folds, a curve to half way up the other side 
 of the triatigle, which shows only one fold ; with the aid of 
 the closed scissors, or the back of a small knife-blade, make 
 a succession of small, scallop-like folds along the curved 
 cut just made, pressing the folds from the lower end, where 
 the cut began, up towards the point of the triangle, so as 
 to give the edges of the curves a crimped appearance ; if 
 the crimps are made small and tight enough, they will retain 
 their form when the circle of paper is unfolded, as shown 
 by the lettered points in the second figure of the illustra- 
 tion ; by refolding them a little it will be possible to make 
 the completed frill, the first figure being run into a hole cut 
 in the middle of the crimped circle. 
 
 PORK CHOPS AND APPLES. 
 
 Wash, and wipe dry, six large sound apples of sub-acid 
 flavor ; cut them in eighths, and remove the cores. Trim 
 away most of the bone from two pounds of fresh pork- 
 chops, cut from the loin ; place a dripping-pan, containing 
 a tablespoonful of fat, over the fire, and as soon as the fat 
 begins to smoke, put the chops and apples into the pan, 
 season them with salt and pepper, and fry them brown on 
 both sides. Serve them neatly arranged on a hot platter. 
 
 MINCED FRESH FORK. 
 
 Chop very fine two pounds of lean fresh pork ; break 
 half a pound of stale bread, and soak it soft in three- 
 
292 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 quarters of a pint of milk ; mix together the minced pork, 
 soaked bread, two well-beaten eggs, and a palatable season- 
 ing of pepper, salt, and powdered sage ; put the mixture 
 into a buttered earthen baking-dish, place it in a moderate 
 oven, and bake it for two hours ; serve the dish hot. Fried 
 apples make a good accompaniment for this dish. 
 
 FRIED SOUR APPLES. 
 
 Choose very firm, sound, sour apples ; wash and wipe 
 them, cut them in quarters, and take out the cores ; put the 
 frying-pan over the fire with half an inch of fat in it, and 
 when the fat is smoking hot, put in the apples, and fry them 
 brown, turning them carefully to prevent breaking; just 
 before they are quite brown, dust them with sugar ; when 
 they are done, take them up without breaking, and serve 
 them hot as a vegetable. 
 
 JOWL. 
 
 Wash a jowl in plenty of cold water ; put it over the fire 
 in more cold water, and boil it gently for an hour. Then 
 slice it half an inch thick, and broil it over a rather slow 
 fire, to avoid burning it. When it is brown, dust it with 
 pepper, and serve it on toast for breakfast. 
 
 Boiled jowl with* boiled greens or cabbage is '^ favorite 
 dinner in the South and West. 
 
 FRIED SALT PORK AND APPLES. 
 
 Slice a pound of salt pork about a quarter of an inch 
 thick, put it over the fire in plenty of boiling water, and 
 boil it for half an hour ; then drain it, and roll it in Indian 
 meal seasoned with salt and pepper ; put into a large pan 
 enough drippings to cover the bottom, and while it is heat- 
 ing cut some sour apples in eighths, without peeling them, 
 and remove the cores ; when the drippings are hot, put in 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entries). 295 
 
 the pork and apples, and fry them together until the apples 
 are just tender, but not at all broken, and the pork is 
 brown ; serve them on the same dish : the drippings may 
 be poured over them unless this is likely to make the dish 
 too fat. 
 
 CORNED-BEEF HASH, NEW-ENGLAND STYLE. 
 
 Remove all cartilage and skin from cold corned beef, but 
 do not take away the fat, and then chop it fine. Chop an 
 equal quantity by measure of cold boiled potatoes ; season 
 the beef and potatoes rather highly, put them into a frying- 
 pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
 stir the hash until it is quite hot. Then move it to one side 
 of the pan, press it firmly together in an oblong cake, and 
 kt the bottom brown. When the bottom is nicely browned, 
 turn the hash out on a hot dish without disturbing its shape, 
 and serve it hot. 
 
 FRIZZLED BEEF. 
 
 Cut a pound of smoked beef in very thin slices, put it 
 over the fire, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and let 
 it begin to boil. , Then drain off the water, and replace it 
 with a pint of cold milk. While the milk is heating, rub to 
 a smooth paste a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 
 stir it with the beef and milk ; season it with pepper, and 
 let it boil gently for one minute, stirring it constantly. Serve 
 the frizzled beef hot, on toast. 
 
 Frizzled beef is also parboiled, as directed above, and 
 then drained, and warmed with eggs and butter, the beef be- 
 ing stirred with the eggs, and highly seasoned with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 The beef may be frizzled in a chafing-dish at the table. 
 
 FRIZZLED HAM. 
 
 Shave a pound of ham as thin as dried beef; put a frying- 
 pan over the fire, and let it get smoking hot ; then put in 
 
294 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the ham, and stir it for two or three minutes ; next dust it 
 with dry flour, and stir it until the flour is brown. While 
 the flour is browning, mix a tablespoonful each of dry mus- 
 tard and vinegar together. When the flour is brown, add 
 the mustard and vinegar, and enough boiling water to cover 
 the ham ; let it boil gently for a moment, and then serve the 
 dish for breakfast or supper. It may be prepared at the 
 table in a chafing-dish. Eggs may be cooked with the ham, 
 in place of the flour and water. 
 
 FRIED HAM. 
 
 Slice ham, put it over the fire in enough cold water to 
 cover it, and let the water heat ; when the water is hot, pour 
 it off the ham, put t-he ham over the fire, and fry it slowly 
 until it is brown on both sides. Then season it with pepper, 
 and serve it. Eggs are usually served with fried ham. They 
 can be fried in the same pan, or separately, in enough fat to 
 prevent burning, and seasoned with salt and pepper. 
 
 BROILED HAM. 
 
 Either freshen ham by soaking it in ice cold water over 
 night, or by heating it in enough water to cover it. Then 
 wipe the ham dry, put it between the bars of a gridiron, 
 and brown it slightly on both sides ; season it with pepper, 
 and- serve it plain, or with fried eggs. 
 
 GAME PIE. 
 
 Bone a partridge and a quail as directed in the recipe for 
 boning, and make the forcemeat described in the recipe for 
 boned turkey. Make a good pastry according to the recipe 
 for pastry for meat and game pies. Use for the pie such a 
 mould as is shown in the first picture given here, spreading it 
 very thickly with cold butter. Roll out a large round of 
 pastry about half an inch thick, set the mould on a buttered 
 
SIDE-DISHES {ENTRIES). 
 
 29s 
 
 plate, and lay the pastry in it. Use the fingers to press the 
 pastry firmly into every depression of the mould, and then 
 trim it off just above the upper rim, so that the upper crust 
 
 Mould for Game Pie. 
 
 may be laid against it. Line the bottom and sides of the 
 mould with forcemeat, fill the quail with forcemeat, and put 
 
 Game Pie Baited in a Mouid. 
 
 >. ^ito the partridge, filling the space between the two birds 
 with fo/cemeat. Then lay the partridge in the mould, and 
 fill ii( (ne empty portion with forcemeat. Wet the upper 
 
296 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 edge of the side crust with cold water, where it lies over the 
 rim of the mould, and put on a thick upper crust. Cut or 
 ornament the upper crust, making apertures for the escape 
 of steam, brush it with beaten egg, and cover it with but- 
 tered paper. Bake the pie slowly for three hours; then 
 brown it; use it either hot or cold. There will be no diffi- 
 culty in taking it from the mould, if it has been well buttered ; 
 for it opens at both ends when the wire fastenings are pulled 
 out. 
 
 REED-BIRD PIE. 
 
 Pluck and dress the birds, leaving them whole; either 
 stuff them with veal and ham, bread-crumbs, or oysters. 
 Line an earthen baking-dish with a nice pastry, made as 
 directed elsewhere. Put the birds into the dish, in layers, 
 with flour, butter, wine, or gravy, and seasonings, allowing to 
 each dozen birds a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, a 
 glass of wine, and a cupful of gravy, and a rather high sea- 
 soning of salt, pepper, and powdered spice. Cover the birds 
 with pastry, wetting the edges of the crust to make them 
 adhere. Cut some places in the crust to permit the escape 
 of steam while the pie is baking, brush it with beaten egg, 
 and bake it in amoderate oven until it is nicely browned. 
 
 Reed-birds may be roasted, broiled, or stewed in brown 
 sauce. 
 
 STEWED SNIPE. 
 
 Pluck the birds carefully, cut off the heads nnd feet, re- 
 move the gizzards only, and wipe- the birds on a. clean towel. 
 For a dozen snipe put two heaping teaspoonfuls of butter in 
 a saucepan, and let it get smoking hot, then put in the 
 snipe, and quickly brown them. When the snipe are brown, 
 dust over them a tablespoonful of dry flour, and stir them 
 about until the flour is brown. When the flour is brown, 
 cover the birds with boiling water, season them palatably 
 with salt and pepper, and let them cook gently for fifteen 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entries). 297 
 
 minutes. Meantime, make a dozen small slices of toast; 
 and in dishing the birds, put one on each slice, and pour 
 a little of the sauce in which they were cooked over them. 
 Serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce-dish. 
 Any small birds can be cooked in this way. 
 
 PRAIRIE CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE, 
 
 Skin the birds, cut off the head and feet, draw them with- 
 out breaking the intestines, and truss them so that they will 
 be short and plump. Put them into a large saucepan with 
 sufficient butter to prevent burning, and brown them ; when 
 the birds are brown, add for each one a tablespoonful of dry 
 flour, and stir them about until the flour is brown. Then 
 put in a gill of tomato-catsup for each bird, enough boiling 
 water to cover them, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
 pepper, and cook them slowly for two hours, or until they 
 are tender. Serve the birds with their sauce and plain 
 boiled potatoes. 
 
 BOILED PARTRIDGE WITH CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and draw the birds without breaking the 
 entrails. Wipe them with a wet towel, and put them over 
 the fire in sufficient boiling water to cover them, with a level 
 tablespoonful of salt ; boil them steadily and gently for fif- 
 teen minutes. Meantime, put half a pint of thick cream in 
 a saucepan set in a pan of boiling water, add to it a table- 
 spoonful of butter, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
 pepper, and stir one way until the butter is melted. Then 
 leave the sauce where it will keep hot. 
 
 When the partridges are done, put them on a hot dish, 
 dry them with a soft cloth, pour the cream sauce over them,. 
 and serve them hot. 
 
 STEWED SQUIRRELS. 
 
 Skin two pairs of fat squirrels, wash them quickly in cola 
 water, or carefully wipe them with a wet cloth to remove the 
 
298 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 hairs, and cut them in quarters, rejecting the intestines. 
 Put a layer of slices of fat salt pork in a„ saucepan, then 
 place the squirrels in the saucepan, with a palatable season- 
 ing of salt and pepper, and either a little more salt pork, or a 
 quarter of a pound of good beef or veal dripping, or butter ; 
 add enough water to prevent burning, cover the saucepan, 
 and cook the squirrels gently until the meat is tender. 
 When the squirrels are nearly done, uncover the saucepan, 
 so that the water in which they were cooked can stew 
 away. Then put in enough cream or good milk to moisten 
 them, let them heat again, see that they sire palatably sea- 
 soned, and then serve them hot. 
 
 SqUIRREIj-PIE. 
 
 After a pair of squirrels have been skinned, wipe them all 
 over with a wet cloth to remove the hairs, and cut them in 
 joints, saving the blood, and removing the entrails. The 
 liver, heart, and kidneys may be used. Chop a pound of 
 beef-suet fine, rejecting all the membrane ; mix it with a 
 pound and a half of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, and 
 a level saltspoonful of pepper. Butter an earthen baking- 
 dish ; add enough cold water to the suet and flour, to rhake 
 a crust which can be rolled out about three-quarters of an 
 inch thick. Line the dish with the crust, put in the squirrel 
 meat and blood, adding enough cold water to half fill the 
 pie ; season it highly with salt and pepper, and cover with 
 the crust, wetting all the edges to make them adhere so 
 closely that the gravy cannot escape. In the middle of the 
 top crust, cut a little slit, to permit the escape of the steam 
 while the pie is being baked. Bake the pie in a moder- 
 ate oven for about two hours ; when the crust is nearly 
 brown enough, cover it with buttered paper. When the 
 pie is done, serve it hot in the dish in which it was 
 baked. 
 
S/DE-D/SHES {ENTH^ES). 299 
 
 FRICASSEE OF RABBITS. 
 
 Carefully skin a pair of rabbits ; draw them ; wash the in- 
 side with half a cupful of vinegar, and save it, together with 
 the blood, after straining them through a fine cloth to free 
 them from any fur which might get mixed with them ; wipe 
 the rabbits with a wet cloth to free them from fur, and cut 
 them in small pieces about two inches square, and roll them 
 in flour seasoned with salt and pepper ; peel and sHce one 
 Spanish onion or half a dozen white ones ; put them into 
 a frying-pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter and the 
 rabbits, and quickly brown them ; then pour in a cupful of 
 milk and sufficient boiling water to cover them, season them 
 with salt and cayenne, cover the frying-pan, and stew them 
 gently for about half an hour, or until they are tender, then 
 serve the fricassee very hot. 
 
 Rabbits and squirrels may be roasted and baked like hare. 
 
 VENISON IN CHAFING-DISH. 
 
 Use small slices of venison about a quarter of an inch 
 thick. Put into a chafing-dish butter and currant-jelly in 
 equal parts, enough to cover the bottom of the dish. Season 
 the venison with salt and pepper, lay it in the dish, cook it 
 for three minutes on each side, and then serve it. As this 
 dish can be prepared at the table, it is very desirable. 
 
 FOREST CITY SAUCE. 
 
 A delicious sauce for venison can be made by smoothly 
 blending a tablespoonful of dry mustard with half a glass 
 of currant-jelly. Keep the sauce in a cool place until it is 
 wanted for the table. 
 
 FRIZZLED VENISON. 
 
 Shave about a pound of venison from the leg, or from any 
 lean part of the carcass ; put in a frying-pan over the fire a 
 heaping tablespoonful of butter and two of currant-jelly, and 
 
300 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 when they are hot put in the shaved venison; season it 
 rather highly with pepper and salt, and cook it for about 
 five minutes, stirring it frequently ; serve at once very hot. 
 The venison may be frizzled at the table in a chafing-dish. 
 
 PASTRT FOR MEAT AND GAME PIES. 
 
 Use half a pound of butter to a pound of flour; chop 
 one-half the butter into the flour; add a level teaspoonful 
 of salt, and enough cold water to mix it to a smooth paste, 
 just soft enough to roll out. If ice- water is used, and the 
 pastry is mixed with a knife instead of the hand, it can be 
 kept cooler, and will be lighter and more delicate than if 
 mixed with the hands. In all the making, touch the pastry 
 as little and as lightly as possible with the hands, because 
 heating it and pressing heavily upon it make it dense and 
 tough. After the pastry is mixed, and rolled about half an 
 inch thick, dredge it with'flour, cut half the remaining butter 
 in slices, and lay it on the pastry, leaving a space of about 
 an inch all around the edges ; dredge the butter with flour, 
 turn the edges in all around to enclose the outside layers of 
 butter, and then double the pastry, and again roll it out 
 about half an inch thick ; put the rest of the butter on it in 
 slices, dredge it with flour, fold in the edges, double it, and 
 roll it out as already directed ; work very quickly and lightly, 
 touching the pastry as little as possible, and in the coldest 
 place about the kitchen. Remember that it is heating and 
 pressing pastry that make it heavy and soggy. If any pastry 
 remains after the pie is made, wrap it in a floured cloth, and 
 keep it in a cool, dry place : it will keep quite well for sev- 
 eral days, and requires only to be rolled out two or three 
 times before using it to make it quite light. 
 
 VENISON PIE. 
 
 Make a good plain pastry as directed in the preceding 
 recipe, and line an earthen pudding-dish with it, a quarter of 
 
SIDE-DISHES {EJVTJ?£ES). 30I 
 
 an inch thick. Chop very fine enough beef-suet to make 
 a quarter-inch layer next the crust, at the bottom and top 
 of the pie. Cut the venison from the bones, and divide it 
 in pieces about an inch square ; season it rather highly with 
 salt, pepper, and ground cloves, and lay it in the dish ; pour 
 over it a glass of red wine for every two pounds of venison ; 
 cover it v/ith a layer of chopped suet, and then with pastry, 
 as shown in the accompanying illustration, wetting the edges 
 of the upper and under crusts to make them adhere. Cut 
 several places in the top crust to permit the escape of steam 
 in baking, and brush the crust with beaten egg. Bake the 
 pie in a moderately hot oven for two hours, or until the 
 venison is tender ; this can be ascertained by thrusting a 
 skewer into the meat through one of the cuts in the top 
 crust. While the pie is being baked, stew th«; bones of the 
 venison in enough water to cover them, with a palatable sea- 
 soning of salt and pepper. When the pie is done, pour the 
 gravy thus made into it through the cuts in the top crust, 
 and serve it hot. 
 
 VENISON PASTY, 
 
 The old English venison pasty was made in a very large 
 dish, simply because of the number of persons generally 
 included in a household. A very good small one can be 
 made in such a dish as is shown in the picture accompany- 
 ing the preceding recipe. The pastry should not be too 
 rich. A good recipe has been given for pastry for meat and 
 game pies ; it should be about a quarter of an inch thick 
 when it is placed on the pie, and should be protected with 
 buttered paper until the last half-hour of baking. 
 
 Cut the venison in small slices, and lay it in a deep dish, 
 with slices of venison or mutton fat between the slices of 
 venison, seasoning the layers of meat with salt, pepper, and 
 powdered allspice; pour into the dish a gravy made by 
 stewing the trimmings of venison in water enough to cover 
 
302 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 them, with salt and pepper, for an hour, or with any good 
 meat-broth and claret mixed in equal proportions; a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice and a gill of port-wine may be 
 substituted for the claret. When no wine is used, a very 
 little chopped onion is put into English venison pasties. If 
 the venison is tender, the crust may be put on the pie at 
 once ; otherwise it is well to bake the venison for an hour 
 before covering the pasty. Either use a bottom crust, or 
 run a strip of pastry around the sides of the dish, and wet 
 the edges to make the upper crust adhere. Make a groove 
 
 l^enison Pasty, 
 
 in the top crust as shown in the picture ; cut several slits 
 to permit the escape of steam ; brush the crust with beaten 
 egg, and bake the pasty slowly for two hours. Use it hot 
 or cold. 
 
 BROILED SPRING CHICKEN WITH CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 While a spring chicken is being broiled in accordance 
 with the recipe given for that dish, boil a fine cauliflower as 
 directed in the proper recipe ; and also prepare a sauce 
 as directed in the recipe for Dutch sauce. When all these 
 ingredients are ready, carve the chicken quickly in such 
 pieces as are shown in the accompanying engraving, and 
 
s/de-d/sAes {emthees). 303 
 
 garnish it with the cauliflower in branches, just moistened 
 with the sauce ; serve it at once, with the sauce in a sauce- 
 bowl. The success of this dish depends upon having all 
 
 Spring Chickens Carved. 
 
 parts of it ready at one time, and upon serving it as soon 
 as it is done. 
 
 SPRING CHICKEN FRIED IN CREAM. 
 
 After the chicken is plucked, singed, wiped with a wet 
 towel, and cut in joints, put a pint of cream into a large 
 frying-pan, and place it over a moderate fire until it begins 
 to color ; then put in the chicken, and fry it until the under 
 side is of a delicate brown color ; now dip out part of the 
 cream, and turn the chicken ; season it with pepper, and 
 finish cooking it ; when the chicken is done, put it on a hot 
 dish, pour into the frying-pan the cream which was taken 
 out, stir it well with what remains in the pan, let it boil once, 
 and serve it with the fried chicken, after sprinkling it with 
 salt. 
 
 Small spring chicken may be breaded, either whole or in 
 quarters, and fried brown in plenty of smoking-hot fat. 
 
 CHICKEN FRIED WITH OKRA. 
 
 This dish is sometimes called chicken gumbo. To pre- 
 pare it, clean a very tender chicken, and cut it in joints 
 suitable for frying ; season it with salt and pepper, and roll 
 
304 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 it in flour ; wash two dozen pods of okra, and slice them 
 thin, throwing away the stems ; peel and slice one medium- 
 sized onion, cut a quarter of a pound of ham in half-inch 
 dice, chop fine one small red or green fresh pepper. First, 
 .fry the chicken and ham brown, putting them into enough 
 smoking-hot lard to half cover them; then add the okra, 
 onion, and pepper, and sufficient broth, cold gravy, or boil- 
 ing water to cover all these ingredients ; season them palata- 
 bly with salt, and stew them gently until both chicken and 
 vegetables are quite tender ; if, while cooking, the broth 
 becomes thicker than ordinary gravy, add to it a little boil- 
 ing water. Fried oysters are sometimes added to the gumbo 
 just before serving. A dish of plain boiled rice is usually 
 served with chicken gumbo. 
 
 boileu, rice. 
 Put a cupful of rice over the fire in salted boiling water, 
 and boil it until the grains begin to burst, which will be in 
 about ten or twelve minutes ; then drain it, and set the 
 saucepan containing it where the rice will keep hot without 
 burning, and steam it for ten minutes. A folded cloth laid 
 over the saucepan will keep the rice hot without making it 
 watery ; or the saucepan can be put into a moderate oven, 
 uncovered. The rice will be ready to use as soon as it is 
 tender. 
 
 CHICKEN -.fRIEB WITH SALT PORK. 
 
 After a very tender chicken is cleaned and cut up, roll 
 the pieces in flour seasoned with salt and pepper; slice 
 half a pound of fat salt pork in thin slices, put it into a 
 frying-pan, and fry it brown ; then take it up, and keep it 
 hot ; put the chicken into the drippings, and fry it brown. 
 When the chicken is brown, cover it with boiling water, 
 season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
 for a moment, and then serve the chicken and fried pork 
 on the same dish, sending the gravy to the table in a bowl. 
 
S/£>£-/)/SJ/£S (ENTR£.E^. 305 
 
 FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Pluck and singe a fowl, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
 it carefully, and cut it in joints. Cut a quarter of a pound 
 of salt pork in half-inch dice ; peel and chop a medium- 
 sized white onion ; put the chicken, pork, and onion in a 
 saucepan, cover them with boiling water, add a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
 pepper, and stew the chicken gently until it is tender. 
 When the chicken is tender, mix two tablespoonfuls of flour 
 to a smooth paste with a cupful of milk, and add it to the 
 fricassee. Let it boil <br two minutes, then stir in the yolks 
 of two raw eggs, and serve it at once. 
 
 PULLET WITH TOULOUSE RAGOUT. 
 
 Dress a fat pullet carefully, truss it with the wings and 
 legs close to the body, and put it over the fire to simmer 
 gently in just enough hot water or broth to cover it. While 
 it is being cooked, make a ragout as follows : Boil until ten- 
 der a large sweetbread and two cockscombs, and cut them 
 in small slices ; slice half a cupful of truffles ; cut the top's 
 from a can of button mushrooms, and make a cupful of 
 chicken quenelles according to the recipe given below j put 
 all these ingredients into enough white sauce to cover them, 
 and simmer them for ten minutes. When the pullet is 
 tender, remove the trussing-cords, and serve it hot with the 
 Toulouse ragout for a garnish. 
 
 CHICKEN QUENELLES. 
 
 Mix together half a cupful each of the soft part of brSad 
 and of finely chopped or pounded chicken-meat cooked ; 
 season the mixture highly with salt and cayenne, and 
 moisten it with enough raw yolk of egg to bind it so that 
 little olive-shaped pieces can be moulded between two small 
 
306 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 spoons ; either roll the quenelles in egg and cracker-dust, 
 and fry them, or poach them until they float in boiling 
 broth or water, and then use them. 
 
 CHICKEN-FIE. 
 
 Carefully pluck and singe a fowl weighing four or five 
 pounds, wipe it with a wet towel, draw it without breaking 
 the intestines, and boil it gently in enough boiling water to 
 cover it until it begins to grow tender ; save the heart, liver, 
 and fleshy portion of the gizzard, and the broth which the 
 chicken yields in boiling. When the chicken is sufficiently 
 done, take it up, cut it in joints as for a fricassee, or in 
 pieces of a size suitable for the pie ; slice a quarter of a 
 pound of fat pork thin, and fry it with the chicken until 
 they are light brown, seasoning both palatably with salt and 
 pepper. After the chicken and pork are fried, take them 
 up, and stir into the pan in which they were cooked a 
 tablespoonful of flour ; stir it over the fire until it is brown, 
 then add to it a pint of the chicken-broth, a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; 
 stir this gravy until it has boiled for two minutes, and use 
 it for the pie. 
 
 To make the crust for the chicken-pie, mix together in 
 a bowl, with a knife, a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and just enough cold 
 water to hold the flour together; put the paste, made in 
 this way, upon a floured pastry-board, and roll it out about 
 an inch thick ; then cut a quarter of a pound of good, firm 
 butter in large^ slices, and lay them all over the paste, fold 
 it together in such a way that the butter is enclosed in the 
 paste, wrap the paste in a floured towel, and put it in a 
 cool place for half an hour. At the end of half an hour, 
 roll out the paste, cut a quarter of a pound of firm butter 
 in large slices, lay them on the paste, fold it so as to enclose 
 
SIDE-DISHES {entries) 307 
 
 them, and, after wrapping it in a floured towel, keep it again 
 in a cool place for half an hour. Then roll it out to the 
 thickness of half an inch, fold it in three thicknesses, and 
 roll it out again. If the butter breaks through the paste, 
 again wrap it in a floured towel, and cool it for half an hour 
 before rolling it out and using it for the pie. If the butter 
 does not break through, roll and fold the paste again, and 
 then use it to line a deep earthen dish. This pastry can be 
 made for the upper crust, and a plainer one for the under 
 part, if that is desirable. After the dish is lined with pastry, 
 put the fried chicken and pork in, in layers ; pour over 
 them sufficient gravy to moisten them ; cover them with a 
 top crust, wetting the edges of the crust to make them 
 adhere ; cut the top crust to permit the steam to escape 
 from the pie while it is being baked ; brush it over with 
 beaten egg, and bake it brown in a moderate oven. If any 
 gravy is made in excess of what is used in the pie, heat 
 it, and send it to table with the pie ; indeed, it is always 
 «,dvisable to have plenty of gravy to serve with the pie. 
 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 
 
 Use cold roast or boiled chicken, chopped not too fine, 
 three-quarters of a pound to a quarter of a pound, or half 
 a can, of mushrooms cut in small dice. Put into a sauce- 
 pan a teaspoonful of grated onion and a tablespoonful of 
 butter, and let them begin to brown ; then stir in two 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a pint of chicken- 
 broth or water, or of water mixed with the liquor of the canned 
 mushrooms ; then add the chopped chicken and mushrooms, 
 a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and a glass of sherry 
 or madeira ; stir the croquette mixture until it begins to boil ; 
 then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir in 
 the yolks of four raw eggs ; after the eggs are added, pour the 
 croquette mixture upon an oiled dish, and cool it. 
 
368 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 After the croquette mixture is cold, fry the croquettes as 
 follows: Have ready a deep bowl containing two eggs 
 beaten smooth ; a large platter full of cracker-dust or fine 
 bread-crumbs ; and, over the fire, a frying-kettle half full 
 of fat ; wet the hands with cold water, form the croquettes 
 hke large corks, handling them very lightly and quickly; 
 roll the croquettes in crumbs, then dip them in the beaten 
 eggs, and again roll them in crumbs, and fry them golden 
 
 Chicken CroQuettas. 
 
 brown in the smoking-hot fat. When the croquettes are 
 done, take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them on 
 brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
 then arrange them as shown in the accompanying illustra- 
 tion, and.serve them hot. 
 
 The shaping of the croquettes requires a very light, deft 
 touch, because, to be good, they should be very soft. A 
 little practice will enable any careful person to make them 
 successfully. 
 
SIDE-DISHES {ENTH^ES). 3O9 
 
 TURKEY-HASH. 
 
 Remove the skin and bone from cold roast turkey, and 
 chop it rather fine ; put with the meat any cold stuffing 
 and gravy on hand, or hot water enough to moisten it, and 
 a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and any powdered 
 herb except sage ; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a 
 frying-pan, put in the hash, set the pan over the fire, and 
 slir the hash until it is very hot. Just before the hash is 
 done, poach three or four eggs by breaking them into boil- 
 ing salted water ; as soon as the hash is taken up, put the 
 poached eggs on it, and serve it at once. The turkey-hash 
 may be served without the poached eggs. 
 
 STEWED OR POTTED PIGEONS. 
 
 Carefully pluck half a dozen pigeons ; singe them, wipe 
 them with a wet towel, and cut off the head and feet ; in 
 drawing them, take care not to break the entrails, and save 
 the hearts, livers, and gizzards ; put two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter in a saucepan, let it get smoking hot, then put in 
 the pigeons, and brown them ; when they are brown, dust 
 over them a tablespoonful of dry flour, and move them 
 about until the flour is brown ; then cover them with boil- 
 ing water, season them palatably with salt and pepper, and 
 simmer them gently until they are tender. Meantime, shell 
 enough very young green pease to fill a pint-measure ; if the 
 pods of the pease are not clean, wash them before shelling, 
 but do not wash the shelled pease. When the pigeons are 
 tender, put the pease with them, and continue to cook them 
 until the pease are just tender ; then serve the pigeons in 
 a deep platter, with the pease under them. 
 
 Or, simply stew the pigeons until tender, and serve them 
 without the pease. The pigeons may be stuffed with any 
 good forcemeat before they are cooked. Sometimes they 
 
3IO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 are tied up in thin slices of salt pork or bacon before 
 they are stewed, the bacon being served with them. The 
 gravy in which they are cooked is served with them. 
 
 SqVAB-PIE. 
 
 Make a good pastry according to any of the recipes 
 already given, and line a deep earthen dish with it ; cut a 
 pound of the breast of tender veal in slices half an inch 
 thick, after first taking out the bones, and put a layer of 
 the meat around the sides and on the bottom of the dish ; 
 carefully pluck six squabs, cut off the heads and feet, singe 
 and draw them, and wipe them with a wet towel ; chop the 
 livers and gizzards fine, with an equal weight of fat salt pork 
 or bacon ; add to them then an equal measure of fine bread- 
 crumbs, one raw egg, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
 pepper, and use this forcemeat to stuff the squabs ; lay them 
 in the dish prepared as directed above, and put over them the 
 rest of the sliced veal ; put over the fire in a frying-pan a 
 dessertspoonful each of flour and butter, stir them until they 
 are brown, then stir with them a cupful and a half of boil- 
 ing water and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; 
 when this sauce boils, pour it into the squab-pie, and cover 
 the pie with an upper crust of pastry, wetting the edges to 
 make them adhere ; cut several slits in the upper crust, and 
 brush it over with beaten egg. Bake the pie for two hours 
 in a moderate oven, taking care that it does not burn ; if 
 the crust browns too quickly, cover it with buttered paper, 
 and moderate the heat of the oven. Serve the pie hot or 
 cold. 
 
 FOIE-GBAS WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 This dish is not usual in America, because generally both 
 thsfoie-gras, or fat goose-liver, and the truffles are imported 
 in jars or cans. The fresh truffles are seldom obtainable, the 
 few which are brought being for special use ; but those in 
 
SWE-DISHES (entrees). 
 
 311 
 
 cans will serve for the dish. Occasionally it is possible to 
 obtain a fresh fat liver in some of the cities where there is 
 a large German population. The liver is cleansed carefully, 
 and semicircular cuts are made to receive slices of truffles, 
 as shown in the engraving ; it is then braised in broth, with 
 a little madeira and seasoning, and served with a garnish of 
 
 Foie-Gras uiith Truffes. 
 
 truffles stewed in the same wine, or in a rich brown sauce 
 made with wine. The canned truffles need no preparation 
 for cooking, and their liquor is used for the sauce ; fresh 
 truffles should be carefully washed in plenty of cold water, 
 with a soft brush, and then stewed whole. 
 
 TRUFFLES. 
 
 Fresh truffles are sometimes boiled or baked, lil^e pota- 
 toes, and served hot, covered with a folded »apkin. as a 
 vegetable course. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY (Releves). 
 
 IN this course, the large dishes of meat and poultry, which 
 are boiled or baked, belong ; but the baked poultry has 
 been classed among the roasts, because in many houses 
 
 there are no arrange- 
 ments for roasting, 
 and poultry baked in 
 a very hot oven is 
 nearly as good as that 
 roasted before the 
 fire. 
 
 In family dinners, 
 the meat dishes be- 
 longing in this course 
 generally form the 
 bulk of the dinner ; 
 the soup or fish being 
 frequently omitted, 
 and the joint accompanied by one or more vegetables, and 
 followed by a plain dessert. 
 
 RIBS OF BEEF BONED AND ROLLED. 
 
 The favorite roasting-piece of beef in America is the rib 
 
 cut. The first engraving given here shows the first cut of 
 
 the ribs as they are taken from the fore-quarter of beef. 
 
 The second picture shows the ribs cut short, and trimmed 
 
 31a 
 
 Ribs of Beef, Unti-immed. 
 
REMOVES (RELEV&s). 313 
 
 ready for roasting. The third is a number of ribs boned 
 and rolled by the butcher. All the trimmings should be 
 sent home with the boned ribs, to be used for soups or 
 
 Hiba of Beef, Trimmed. 
 
 sauces ; sometimes the ends of the ribs only are sawed off 
 and removed. When all the bones are taken out, and the 
 roll of meat is tied very tight, it will remain in place after 
 cooking, and can be carved more easily and economically 
 
 Rlbi of Beef, Boned and Rolled. 
 
 than when the bones remain. The rolled ribs may be 
 roasted, baked, or braised, according to the general direc- 
 tions for such operations, and served with any chosen gravy 
 or garnish, or with a plain green salad. 
 
314 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BAKED BEEF. 
 
 After beef has been prepared by the butcher, wipe it with 
 a wet cloth, put it in a very hot oven in a dripping-pan, and 
 brown it quickly. After the beef is brown, season it with 
 salt and pepper. If a frothed surface is desired, dredge the 
 beef with dry flour, and pour over it several spoonfuls of the 
 drippings in the pan every fifteen minutes while it is being 
 baked. Do not put any water in the pan ; if the beef is not 
 fat enough to yield drippings, use a little butter, or a slice 
 of bacon or salt pork if their flavor is desired. After the 
 beef is done to the desired degree, make the gravy as 
 directed in the recipe for roast beef. In a hot oven, fifteen 
 minutes to a pound will bake beef medium rare. Never try 
 to bake meat in a cool oven. The oven, if too hot, can be 
 cooled a little after the beef is brown, by opening the door ; 
 but the heat should be as great as it can be without burning 
 the meat. 
 
 BEEF A LA. MODE, WITS STUFFING. 
 
 Cut several holes in a piece of the round of beef weighing 
 about six pounds, and fill them with the following stuffing, 
 binding wide tape or strips of clean cloth over the cuts to 
 keep in the stuffing : Chop very fine three-quarters of a pound 
 of raw beef, and a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork ; mix 
 them with one pound of grated bread, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, one level teaspoonful each of powdered thyme, 
 savory, cloves, and allspice, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one 
 saltspoonful of pepper, and a dust of cayenne. After the 
 beef is stuffed, lay it on skewers or a plate in a kettle ; pour 
 over it three pints of boiling water, cover the kettle closely, 
 and stew the beef over a gentle fire for four hours. When 
 the beef is done, take it up, remove the tapes, and keep it 
 hot. Take out the skewers or plate, thicken the gravy with 
 a tablespoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little of the 
 
REMOVES {RELEV&s). 3 15 
 
 gravy, boil the gravy for one minute, season it palatably 
 with salt and pepper, add to it three tablespoonfiils of wine 
 or tomato-catsup, and serve it with the beef. 
 
 BEEF "k LA VAUBE. 
 
 As has been shown in the chapter on Carving, beef with 
 strips of fat salt pork inserted with the grain of the meat 
 may be cooked and served like beef a /a mode. Vegetables 
 cut with a iluted knife, or with vegetable-scoops, as shown 
 in the chapter devoted to vegetables, can be used as a gar- 
 nish for beef a la daube ; or it may be cooked and served as 
 directed in the preceding recipe, omitting the stuffing. 
 
 LARDED FILET OF BEEF WITH TOMATOES. 
 
 After a. filet or tenderloin of beef is trimmed, wipe it with 
 a wet cloth, lard it as directed in the recipe for fricandeau 
 of veal, and either roast or bake it according to the direc- 
 
 mm 
 
 
 Larded Filet of Beef with Stuffed Tomatoes. 
 
 tions already given. Before placing the filel to cook, it is 
 well to protect the lardoons with buttered paper. While 
 the filel is being cooked, wipe as many medium-size fresh 
 tomatoes as will surround it, and stuff and bake them as 
 directed in the recipe for stuffed tomatoes. Just before 
 the filel is done, remove the buttered paper, so that the lar- 
 doons may brown ; arrange the filet on a hot dish with the 
 tomatoes around it, as shown in the accompanying cut, 
 and serve it hot. Very small hearts of lettuce, closely 
 
3l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 'trimmed, are used as part of the garnish, if they are in 
 season. 
 
 The lardoons are sometimes cut from boiled tongue, when 
 there is any objection to the use of pork or bacon ; but the 
 tongue does not help to brown the meat. If beef-fat is 
 tough enough to pull through the meat without breaking, it 
 is the best substitute for larding pork. 
 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH SPAGHETTI, MILANAISE 
 STYLE. 
 
 The filet or tenderloin of beef is excellent braised, and 
 served with a small kind of Italian macaroni called spaghetti, 
 or threads. After tht filet is trimmed, lay it in a braising-pan 
 with a slice of fat pork under and over it, and a carrot, a 
 turnip, and an onion peeled, a tablespoonful of salt, and 
 a fagot or bouquet of sweet herbs made by tying together a 
 few sprigs of parsley, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme or marjo- 
 ram, and a dozen cloves and peppercorns, and add enough 
 boiling water to cover it. The braising-pan is then closed, 
 and the meat cooked slowly for an hour. Meantime the 
 spaghetti is boiled for ten minutes in salted boiling water, 
 and then drained and laid in cold water. A sauce is made 
 by browning together a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 flour, and then gradually mixing with them a pint of the 
 broth from the meat. The sauce may be made more elabo- 
 rate by putting into it small bits of cold chicken or tongue. 
 Just before 'Caz filet \s, taken up, the spaghetti is taken from 
 the cold water, and warmed in the sauce. The filet is 
 dished with the spaghetti as a garnish, and served hot. 
 
 FRESH TONGUE, BOILED. 
 
 Fresh beef, calf, pig, or lamb tongue, or those which 
 have been only slighdy salted, make a very nice dish. To 
 prepare them, soak them over night in plenty of cold water 
 
REMOVES (RELEV&S). 317 
 
 lo freshen them slightly if they are salted, or to blanch them 
 if they are fresh. The next day put them over the fire with 
 cold water for salted tongues, or boiling water for fresh ones : 
 allow twenty minutes to each pound for boiling, from the 
 time they begin to boil. A lemon sliced, or a cupful of vin- 
 egar, and a teaspoonful each of whole cloves and pepper- 
 corns, boiled with tongues, greatly improves their flavor. 
 When they are done, take them up, remove the skin, and 
 return them again to the pot-liquor to keep hot ; or, if they 
 are to be used cold, let them cool in it. At the table, slice 
 them in rather long slices, beginning near the tip. All the 
 fleshy parts and the fat near the roots of the tongues will 
 serve to make excellent hash when cold. 
 
 ROBERT SAUCE. 
 
 Serve with the tongues a hot sauce, made as follows : 
 Chop a peeled onion in quarter-inch dice, and fry it in a 
 tablespoonful of butter until it is brown. Then add half 
 a cupful of vinegar, and boil rapidly until the vinegar is 
 nearly evaporated. Next stir in a cupful and a half of any 
 cold brown gravy ; or, lacking the gravy, stir in first a table- 
 spoonful of dry flour, and let it brown, and then mix in a 
 cupful and a half of boiling water. Season the sauce highly 
 with salt and pepper, and simmer it slowly for fifteen min- 
 utes. Just before using it, stir in a dessertspoonful of 
 French mustard. 
 
 HIND-QUARTER OF VEAL. 
 
 The picture shows an entire hind-quarter of veal as found 
 in market. The lines given are the average cuts in use 
 throughout the country for dividing the quarter, which is 
 generally too large for family use. Fig. i indicates the 
 knuckle, used for soups and jellies ; Fig. 2 shows that part 
 usually separated in slices for cutlet, the inner portion being 
 
3i8 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 that from which the noix or cushion is cut for a fricandeau; 
 Fig. 3 is the rump or lower end of the loin, used for pot- 
 roasts, a la mode veal, and also for roasting and baking; 
 
 Hind-Quarter of Veal. 
 
 Fig. 4 is the loin proper, which is either roasted or baked, 
 or cut into chops for broiling or frying. 
 
 LARDED CANTONS OF LAMB. 
 
 The shoulders of small lamb, boned from the inside so 
 as to avoid breaking the skin, can be stuffed and larded as 
 shown in the accompanying picture, and then either roasted 
 or baked, and garnished with olives and button-mushrooms, 
 heated in a brown mushroom sauce ; any good forcemeat 
 or stuffing can be used, and the lardoons protected with 
 buttered paper while the cantons are being cooked. To 
 remove the bones, cut from the inside of the shoulder, to 
 take out the shoulder-blade, then cut the flesh away from 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£s). 319 
 
 the round bone, turning it away like a glove from the hand, 
 until that part of the bone 'just above the foot-joint is 
 reached ; cut the bone here from the inside, and trim the 
 end projecting from the flesh to resemble the bill of a duck; 
 
 Larded Cantons of Lamb. 
 
 after the cantons are stuffed and larded, truss them in the 
 form of ducks, as shovra in the picture, and then bake or 
 roast them, and garnish them as directed above, first re- 
 moving the strings which confine the stuffing ; serve a brown 
 gravy or brown mushroom sauce with them. 
 
 BOILED MUTTON. 
 
 Use the 'Jpper part of a large leg of mutton, or a small 
 one entire : wipe it with a damp cloth, chop off the end of 
 the leg bene, and put it over the fire in sufficient boiling 
 water tc' cover it ; season it with a level tablespoonful of salt 
 and a small red pepper, or a dozen peppercorns, and boil 
 it gently about two hours, or until quite tender. When it is 
 done, serve it with Forest City sauce ; or use caper sauce, 
 which is white sauce containing capers. 
 
 BAKED FRESH PORK. 
 
 If the skin is left on the pork, as it is in some markets, 
 scrape it with a dull knife, wash it thoroughly with a wet 
 
320 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 cloth, and score it in little squares ; if the skin has been 
 removed, trim off some of the superfluous fat. Using a 
 sharp, thin knife, cut out the chine or backbone, disjointing 
 it from the ends of the ribs, so that the meat may be carved 
 with ease; put in the dripping-pan a few slices each of 
 carrot, turnip, and onion, a dozen whole cloves, a level tea' 
 spoonful of peppercorns, and a few leaves of parsley oi 
 celery; lay the pork on these vegetables, put the pan in a 
 moderate oven, and' brown the meat; when the meat is 
 brown, season it with salt, pepper, and powdered sage, and 
 finish cooking it, allowing fifteen minutes to each pound of 
 meat. An hour before the pork is done, prepare the garnish 
 for it as follows : Peel a dozen small white onions without 
 breaking the layers apart ; put them into a pan with a tea- 
 spoonful of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and a little salt 
 and pepper ; set the pan in the oven, and occasionally shake 
 it to move the onions about, and insure their uniform brown- 
 ing; after the onions are prepared, wash four tart apples, 
 quarter them, remove the cores, place them in a pan just 
 large enough to hold them, with a tablespoonful of butter 
 distributed over them, and bake them until they are tender, 
 but not at all broken ; keep the onions and apples hot to 
 serve with the pork. When the pork is done, put it on a 
 hot dish ; arrange the apples and onions in little groups 
 around it, and serve it with a dish of plain boiled potatoes 
 and brown gravy. To make the gravy, after the pork is 
 taken from the baking-pan, pour out nearly all the drip- 
 pings, leaving in the scraps of vegetables ; set the pan over 
 the fire, stir in a heaping tablespoonful of flour until it is 
 brown, and then a pint of boiling water, adding the water 
 gradually ; season the gravy thus made, palatably with salt 
 and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then strain it, and 
 serve it with the baked pork. 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£:^. 32 1 
 
 BAKED PORK WITH POTATOES. 
 
 Peel, boil, and mash a quart of potatoes, and, in mashing, 
 season them highly with salt, pepper, and powdered sage ; 
 remove all the bone from a shoulder of fresh pork, cutting 
 from the inside, and leaving the meat as whole as possible ; 
 after the bone is removed, season the inside of the meat, 
 stuff the mashed potato into the cavity, and sew up the 
 shoulder so as to restore its original shape ; if the skin is 
 left on the shoulder, scrape it with a dull knife, wipe it with 
 a wet cloth, and then score it in half-inch squares ; put the 
 meat into a very moderate oven, so that it may cook slowly 
 and thoroughly, twenty minutes to the pound ; serve with 
 it boiled beets, or cabbage dressed with vinegar, or a sauce 
 made of sour apples. If a gravy is desired, make it as fol- 
 lows : After the pork is done, take it up, remove the strings, 
 and keep it hot ; pour out of the pan all but two tablespoon- 
 fuls of the drippings, set the pan over the fire, stir into it 
 two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let it brown, then stir in 
 enough boiling water to make a gravy of the proper consis- 
 tency, season it palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
 for a moment, and then serve it with the meat. The char- 
 acter of the gravy can be changed by adding to it two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, or a dessertspoonful of mixed mustard, 
 or half a cupful of pickles chopped very fine, or two table- 
 spoonfuls of pickled onions very thinly sliced. 
 
 The chine, loin, and leg of pork are used for roasting and 
 baking. Any of these pieces may be stuffed, or simply sea- 
 soned and cooked. The gravy is to be made according to 
 the above recipe, or the pork may be cooked in accordance 
 with the next recipe. 
 
 BAKED TENDERLOINS. 
 
 Wipe the tenderloins with a damp cloth, lay them in a 
 dripping-pan with the sweet potatoes, and brown them 
 
322 PRACTICAL AMERICAAr COOKERY. 
 
 quickly in a hot oven ; then season them with salt, pepper, 
 and powdered sage, and bake them about forty minutes. 
 
 In cool weather, there is no meat more savory than the 
 tenderloin of fresh pork. Prime ones are large, thick through 
 the centre, bright red in color, and closely intersected with 
 lines of white fat ; if the pork is from a perfectly healthy 
 animal, and thoroughly cooked, it is entirely wholesome for 
 any person except those who have weak digestions. The 
 tenderloins may be split and stuffed before they are baked. 
 
 BAKED SWEET POTATOES. 
 
 Peel the potatoes, put them into tlie dripping-pan with 
 the tenderloins, bake them until tender, and serve them 
 with the tenderloins and stuffed apples. 
 
 STUFFED APPLES. 
 
 Prepare the apples as soon as the tenderloins are in the 
 oven ; wipe them with a wet towel, cut a thick slice from 
 the stem end of each, scoop out the core without cutting" 
 through the apples, fill each one with an ounce of highly 
 seasoned sausage-meat, or with the slice from the top, 
 chopped and seasoned ; arrange them on a large tin pan, 
 dust them over with cracker-dust, and bake them until 
 tender. Serve them with the tenderloins. 
 
 Tenderloins may also be broiled and fried, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, and powdered sage. 
 
 HAND OF FRESH PORK. 
 
 The hand of pork is the leg or shoulder of young pork 
 cut short, and boned from the top without marring the skin. 
 After the leg is boned, it is stuffed with any good forcemeat, 
 or with highly seasoned bread-stuffing, and sewed at the 
 top as shown in the picture given in the chapter on Carving. 
 The hand may either be boiled or roasted, and served with 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£.S). 323 
 
 a garnish of string-beans, or a fresh green salad. With a 
 good forcemeat, the hand makes a nice cold dish for 
 supper. 
 
 BROILED PORK WITH CHILI SAUCE. 
 
 The Chili sauce is to be prepared in advance of cooking 
 the meat, and in a considerable quantity, as it will keep 
 some time. The directions for making it are given below. 
 To cook the pork, have cutlets about half an inch thick cut 
 from the leg of fresh pork ; put the cutlets between the bars 
 of a double gridiron, and broil them brown over a moderate 
 fire, allowing about twenty minutes to cook them ; when 
 they are well done, put them on a hot platter, season them 
 with salt and pepper, put a little butter over them, and serve 
 them with a dish of Chili sauce. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE. 
 
 Scald ripe sound tomatoes, peel them and weigh them ; 
 to five pounds, add one pound of onions peeled and sliced, 
 five ounces of fresh red peppers, weighed after the seeds 
 are taken out, and then chopped fine, a quarter of a pound 
 of brown . sugar, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and a pint of 
 vinegar ; put all these ingredients over the fire in a porce- 
 lain-lined kettle, and boil them slowly, stirring them fre- 
 quently to prevent burning ; after the sauce begins to boil, 
 it must be stirred almost incessantly. In about half an hour 
 it will be quite thick ; it should be boiled until it is about 
 the consistency of apple-sauce. After the sauce has been 
 boiled enough, remove the kettle from the fire, let the sauce 
 cool in it, and then bottle it and cork the bottles tight. 
 
 HOW TO DRESS A ROASTING-PIS. 
 
 A roasting-pig is in prime condition when it is three to 
 six weeks old. As soon as it is killed, plunge it into cold 
 water for five minutes, then rub it all over with powdered 
 
324 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 resin, and put it into scalding water for one minute. Then 
 lay it on a clean board, and pull and scrape off the bristles, 
 taking care not to injure the skin. If any of the bristles 
 do not come off readily, scald that part again and scrape it. 
 When all the bristles are removed, wash the pig thoroughly, 
 first in warm water, and then several times in plenty of 
 cold water. Then slit the pig from the throat downward, 
 and take out the entrails, saving the heart, liver, lights, and 
 spleen : lay these parts in cold salted water. Wash the pig 
 again in cold water, and then wrap it from the air in cloth 
 wet in cold water, until it is wanted for use. 
 
 A good roasting-pig has a soft, clean, pinkish-white skin, 
 plump hams, a short curly tail, thin delicate ears, and a 
 soft fringe-like margin all around the tongue. 
 
 BAKED SUCKING-PIG. 
 
 Choose a small plump pig. Use the liver, heart, and 
 lights for the dressing, after first putting them over the fire 
 in salted boiling water, and boiling them until tender, or 
 stewing them raw and browning them in butter. Peel and 
 grate an onion, put it over the fire in a frying-pan with two 
 tablespoonfuls of batter, and fry it slowly ; mince the heart, 
 liver, kidneys, and add them to the onion ; soak two 
 cupfuls of bread in cold water until soft, then squeeze it 
 in a towel to extract the water, and put it with the minced 
 haslet and onion ; season the mixture highly with salt, pep- 
 per, ground sage, and marjoram, and stir it until it is scald- 
 ing hot ; use this stuffing for the pig ; sew it up, truss it so 
 as to keep the legs in place, put it into a dripping-pan 
 just large enough to hold it, and. bake it in a moderate 
 oven ; for the first hour baste it with butter and hot water, 
 and after that with butter alone ; if the eg,rs and tail seem 
 in danger of browning, wrap them in buttered paper; 
 season the pig with salt and pepper two or three times 
 
REMOVES {RELEVMS). 335 
 
 while it is being basted. A medium-sized pig will bake in 
 from two to two and a half hours. When the pig is done, 
 put it on a dish to keep hot after removing the stitches 
 which retain the stuffing ; place the dripping-pan over the 
 fire, stir in a tg.blespoonful of flour, and brown it, and then 
 add equal quantities of boiling water and wine, or three 
 parts of water and one of mushroom or walnut catsup ; let 
 the gravy thus made boil once, season it palatably with salt 
 and pepper, and then serve it with the baked pig. The 
 stuffing may be varied by using mashed potatoes instead 
 of soaked bread. Apple-sauce is the usual accompaniment. 
 Cold slaw and cranberry-jelly or stewed cranberries are 
 used in the South with roast pig. 
 
 Prepare apple-sauce as follows : : — 
 
 Peel, quarter, and core tart apples ; stew them to a pulp 
 over a slow fire, adding at first three tablespoonfuls of water 
 to a pint of apples, to prevent burning; when the apples 
 are stewed to a pulp, stir them with a tablespoonful of 
 butter to each pint of the sauce, and then use the sauce 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 SALTING AND SMOKING MEAT. 
 
 The salting and smoking of meat can be accomplished 
 on a small scale, and sometimes is very desirable. With 
 the aid of the annexed engravings, which are copied from 
 Gouffd's " Book of Preserves,!' any intelligent carpenter can 
 make the necessary apparatus. The first figure represents 
 a box or trough, made of boards two inches thick, about 
 six feet long by two feet wide, with sides three inches highj 
 the trough is set slanting upon strong legs held by a cross- 
 bar, and has an opening at the lower end for the escape of 
 the brine from the salting compound. For family use, a thick 
 wide meat-board, placed at a moderate angle of inclinatioiv 
 may replace the salting- trough. -^ 
 
326 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The second figure shows the salting-bin or pickling-tub, 
 
 PioMing or Salting trough, 
 
 a wooden box about three feet square, made of two-inch 
 
 Plckling-Tub, or Salting-Bin. 
 
 boards, and set upop strong short uprights. For small lise^ 
 a stout cask or barrel may replace the tub. 
 
{removes relev£s). 327 
 
 Smohing Closet or Furnace, 
 
32S PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The third figure represents the smoking-closet, a wooden 
 box on uprights, with a door, a funnel upon the top to 
 carry off the smoke, and an aperture in the bottom to 
 receive it from a small stove ; the closet is about three feet 
 by five, with strong iron rods running through the top to 
 hold the meat. The stove or furnace which stands under 
 the closet must have a funnel to carry the smoke into the 
 closet ; the row of holes around the top of the stove, shown 
 in the picture, is for the admission of air which would enter 
 at the bottom of an ordinary small furnace. 
 
 For family use, a smouldering fire is sometimes built 
 under a large barrel, and smothered with sawdust of hard 
 wood ; aiid the meat is suspended across the top of the 
 barrel. Anpther small way of smoking is to hang the meat 
 over the top of a barrel which is open at both ends, and 
 set it over a pile of oak sawdust in which a large piece of 
 red-hot iron is buried : the top of the barrel is covered after 
 the smoke begins to rise. 
 
 SALTING MEAT FOR SMOKING. 
 
 After trimming the meat in the proper joints, it should 
 be laid in the salting- trough, and thoroughly rubbed with 
 the salting mixture. For eighteen pounds of meat, mix, by 
 pounding together to a powder, two pounds of good bay 
 saltj two ounces of saltpetre, and four of brown sugar ; 
 thoroughly rub this mixture into the ^ meat every day for 
 four days ; then cover it with dry bay salt, fresh every day, 
 for twelve days, keeping a board over the meat with a heavy 
 weight upon it. It is important to apply the salting mixture 
 and dry salt every day, and to let the blood and brine drain 
 freely away from the meat. When the meat is pork, the 
 skin should . be downward. After two weeks, the meat will 
 be ready to smoke! Small joints should be smoked for a 
 week, large ones from ten days to two weeks : small tongues 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£S). 329 
 
 may be smoked after six days' salting, and large ones after 
 ten. 
 
 BOW TO FICKLE MEAT. 
 
 For eighteen pounds of meat, pound to a powder half 
 an ounce of saltpetre and an ounce of brown sugar, and 
 rub the mixture well into the meat ; make enough brine to 
 cover the meat, by dissolving in water all the bay salt it will 
 receive ; boil it up, and skim it, then cool it, and pour it 
 over the meat in the pickling-tlib ; for four days take the 
 meat out of the brine every day, rub into it the above 
 quantity of saltpetre and sugar, and replace it in the brine ; 
 after four days, turn the meat every day in the brine for ten 
 days ; it will then be ready to smoke for eight days, or may 
 remain in the pickle simply as corned meat. 
 
 SMOKING MEAT. 
 
 The best wood for smoking meat is oak, and, where a 
 barrel is used, oak sawdust ; green hickory and maple are 
 used in New England ; dried corn-cobs make a good 
 smoke ; pine wood should never be used for smoking meat. 
 In the small stove or furnace, shown in the illustration of the 
 smoking-closet, a fire is first made of charcoal. Upon the 
 live coals a thick layer of sawdust is spread ; and over that 
 half a dozen bay-leaves, a bunch of dried thyme, and twenty 
 juniper-berries are laid. The fire is kept smouldering by 
 renewing the sawdust, and fresh herbs are added every 
 other day, as long as meat is kept in the smoking-closet. 
 
 KNICKERBOCKER DRIED BEEF. 
 
 Use a piece of the round of beef, weighing from six to 
 ten pounds. After trimming it, rub it all over with brown 
 sugar once a day for three weeks. After rubbing it with 
 sugar every day, rub it well with common salt and powdered 
 saltpetre, using an ounce of saltpetre to four pounds of 
 sugar, and double that quantity of salt ; the action of the 
 
330 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY.' 
 
 saltpetre is to redden and harden the beef. After the beef 
 is salted, turn it every day for two weeks, and keep it in 
 a cool place. At the end of two weeks, roll the beef tightly 
 in a coarse cloth, and hang it in wood smoke for ten days, 
 turning it bottom up every dayj it will then be ready to 
 shave and use as smoked beef, or to boil and slice when 
 cold ; or, cook it like frizzled ham. 
 
 HOW TO CURE HAMS. 
 
 To twenty-five pounds of meat, — the hams to be weighed 
 after they are trimmed, — allow three pints of coarse salt, 
 four ounces of saltpetre, and a quart of molasses ; mix these 
 ingredients thoroughly without boiling them, adding enough 
 cold water to cover the hams ; pack the hams in a barrel, 
 pour the brine over them, weight them with a stone to keep 
 them down, and cover the barrel. At the end of every 
 week change them, putting the top ones on the bottom ; 
 let them stand in the brine for five weeks, and then smoke 
 them for three weeks in the smoke of burning sawdust and 
 corn-cobs, or green hickory or maple. The same brine 
 may be used again by adding more salt to it. A boiled 
 brine may be made by boiling and skimming clear three 
 gallons of water, four and a half pounds of salt, a pound and 
 a half of brown sugar, an ounce and a half of saltpetre, half 
 an ounce of saleratus, and two quarts" of molasses ; after the 
 brine is skimmed quite clear, cool it, and then pour it over 
 the meat. After the hams are smoked, they should be 
 wrapped in stiff brown paper, and then sewed up in thick 
 cloth. They can be hung in a cool dry place, or packed in 
 barrels with layers of coarse dry salt, powdered charcoal, 
 or clean wood ashes. The salt packing is the best for 
 warm weather. The hams may be thickly sprinkled with 
 ground pepper, tied closely in sacks, and then hung in a 
 cool dark place, when the weather is cool. 
 
REMOVES {RELEV^S). J31 
 
 BAM COOKED IN CIDER. 
 
 Soak a ham over night in sufficient cold water to entirely 
 cover it ; the next morning trim it neatly, put it over the 
 fire in enough cold water to cover it, with one pint of cider 
 and half a cupful of brown sugar ; cover the kettle, and boil 
 the ham slowly for four hours, or until the skin peels off 
 easily. When the ham is cooked enough, take it out of the 
 water in which it was boiled, remove the skin, and lay the 
 ham in a dripping-pan ; pour into the dripping-pan a pint 
 of cider, sprinkle the ham plentifully with brown sugar, and 
 place it in a moderate oven to bake one hour ; every fifteen 
 minutes baste the ham with the cider in the pan. When 
 the ham is cooked, take it from the dripping-pan, free the 
 cider in the pan from grease, season it lightly with pepper, 
 and use it as a sauce for the ham, which may be served 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 PLAIN BOILED HAM. 
 
 Soak the ham over night in cold water, and then boil it 
 in enough water to cover it, with a dried red pepper, or 
 a teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, boiling 
 it twenty minutes to a pound ; after the ham is done, 
 remove the skin, and serve it hot, or let it cool in the water 
 in which it was boiled. Cooks usually put little spots of 
 p.epper on the fat of the ham after skinning it. 
 
 BAKED OR ROAST HAM. 
 
 After a ham has been boiled and skinned as directed 
 above, dust it with bread or cracker crumbs, and quickly 
 brown it in a hot oven : serve it either hot or cold. A glass 
 ♦^f madeira is a popular addition to the gravy or sauce 
 of roast ham. 
 
332 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 TO SMOKE A MUTTON HAM. 
 
 Trim a good leg of mutton in the form of a ham, and let 
 it hang for two days. Heat in a thick saucepan half a 
 pound each of rock and table salt and brown sugar, and two 
 ounces of 'powdered saltpetre. When all these ingredients 
 are thoroughly warm, rub them well into the ham, and place 
 it in a wooden or earthen vessel, and let it stand for four 
 days, turning it every day. The fourth day, rub a handful of 
 dry salt over the ham, and let it stand for two days longer ; 
 then dry it, and hang it in a wood smoke for a week. 
 
 BOILED MUTTON HAM. 
 
 After the mutton ham has been prepared, as directed in' 
 the recipe for smoking it, wash it in cold water, and soak it 
 over night in enough cold water to cover it. The next day 
 drain it, put it over the fire in enough cold water to cover it, 
 let the water heat to the boiling-point, and then boil the 
 ham gently twenty minutes to a pound. Half an hour be- 
 fore the ham' is done, boil with it half a dozen turnips 
 peeled, or a head of cabbage first washed in cold water, if 
 either of these vegetables is desired to serve with the ham. 
 Or serve it simply with a dish of plain boiled potatoes. 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND SALT PORK. 
 
 After the carcass is freed from bristles, which is done by 
 scalding it and. then scraping them off, it is to be cut up for 
 curing. The shoulders are usually corned for about a week, 
 and then either boiled or baked ; the hams are first cured 
 with brown sugar or molasses and salt, and then smoked ; 
 the head and feet are made into souse ; the loins, tender-, 
 loins, spare-ribs, and neck are generally cooked while they 
 are fresh. When the pig is large, only part of the head is 
 made into souse, the cheeks being salted or made into 
 
REMOVES (RELEVEs). 333 
 
 brawn ; the fat sides, cut close off at the loins, and including 
 the belly, are salted in brine, or cured as bacon ; the inner 
 fat, which lies about the intestines, is tried out as lard ; the 
 edible entrails are cooked fresh, usually by frying or boil- 
 ing; the outer casings of the intestines are thoroughly 
 cleaned, and used in making sausages and black puddings ; 
 the latter are made from the blood boiled with oatmeal or 
 Indian meal and seasonings, and cased with the larger intes- 
 tines ; sausages are made from the leaner trimmings of the 
 carcass, seasoned highly and cased in the smaller intestines.' 
 After the sides and belly are cut in pieces of the desired 
 size, they are packed in kegs or barrels with plenty of salt, 
 and covered with cold water; about a bushel of salt is 
 allowed to a barrelful of pork ; a heavy stone is laid on the 
 pork to keep it under the brine. If all the salt is dissolved 
 in two or three days, more is to be added ; there should 
 always be a little more salt than the water will dissolve ; in 
 about six weeks the pork will be sufficiently salted to use. 
 
 HOVr TO TRY OUT LARD. 
 
 To prepare lard at home, use very clean, fresh, white-look- 
 ing " leaves " of fresh pork fat ; cut the fat in pieces a little 
 less than an inch square, removing any membranes or small 
 veins which may be apparent. Place a large iron pot over 
 a very gentle fire, put into it half a pint of cold water, then 
 put in the chopped fat ; let it heat gradually, and boil slowly 
 but steadily for about three hours, stirring it occasionally to 
 prevent sticking. While it is necessary to keep the lard 
 boiling constantly, care must be taken that the fire is not too 
 hot, lest the fat boil over and burn. As the fat boils, and 
 the water evaporates, it will gradually lose its cloudy appear- 
 ance and become transparent. When the fat no longer 
 bubbles, and the pieces of fat or "scraps" axe yellowish 
 brown, and begin to cake together, the lard is sufficiently 
 
334 PRACTICAL AMERICAI^ COQKERY. 
 
 cooked. Set the pot off the fire, and let the lard cool a lit- 
 tle J then use a large ladle to dip the liquid lard into per- 
 fectly tight wooden kegs, earthen jars, or tin pails ; be careful 
 that no particle of " scraps " is dipped out with the lard ; 
 and when it has nearly all been removed from the " scraps," 
 lay a folded towel in a large sieve, set the sieve over an 
 earthen bowl, pour the remaining lard and " scraps " into 
 the sieve, and let them drain without pressing. Keep the 
 lard which drains from the "scraps" separate from the 
 othgr, and use it first. 
 
 The " scraps " are good served with hot baked or boilgd 
 potatoes. They are also used in the South for making 
 Indiaii bread, under the name of crackling bread. 
 
 BOILED PORK AND FARSNEPS. 
 
 Wash two or three pounds of salt pork in cold water, put 
 it over the fire in sufficient cold water to cover it, let it 
 slowly approach the boiling-point, and boil it for three 
 hours. At the end of one or two hours, add to it half a 
 dozen parsneps washed and scraped, and boil them with the 
 pork until they are tender ; old, tough parsneps should be 
 added at the end of one hour ; young, tender ones, at the 
 end of two hours. When both pork and parsneps are tender, 
 take them out of the saucepan in which they were boiled, 
 and wipe it quite dry ; cut the pork in half-inch slices, 
 put it again into the saucepan, and brown it quickly over 
 the fire. Meantime, slice the parsneps, and brown them 
 with the pork. Season both palatably with salt and pepper, 
 and serve them hot on the same dish. 
 
 OLD NEW-YORK STYLE OF CURING BACON. 
 
 After the sides of pork are cut and trimmed, rub each one 
 thickly with salt, lay them on an inclined board, and let 
 them remain for twenty-four hours ; then for each side of 
 
REMOVES (RELEV^s). 335 
 
 pork use the following ingredients mixed well together : 
 half a pound each of brown sugar and salt, and one ounce 
 of powdered saltpetre. Rub this mixture well into the 
 bacon, and turn it every day for two weeks (of course this 
 curing must take place in cool weather) ; after the bacon has 
 been salted for two weeks, smoke it for ten days, according 
 to the directions given for smoking meats. This quantity 
 of salting mixture is calculated for very large sides of pork. 
 
 BOILED BACON AND CABBAGE. 
 
 Wash and scrape a piece of bacon, or " middling," put 
 it over the fire in cold water enough to cover it, and boil it 
 gently half an hour to a pound. While the bacon is boiling, 
 carefully trim a cabbage, cut it in quarters, and cut out the 
 stalk, and leave it in a pan of cold salted water until wanted ; 
 about half an hour before dinner, put the cabbage into the 
 pot with the bacon, and boil it fast until the stalk is just 
 tender. When the cabbage is tender, which will be in about 
 half an hour, take it up in a colander, press it to extract all 
 the water, lay it on a dish, put the boiled bacon on it, and 
 serve the dish at once. The old-fashioned way of boiling 
 cabbage for an hour or longer is quite unnecessary. 
 
 BOAR'S HEAD. 
 
 Thoroughly cleanse a head, removing the hair, as from 
 pork for curing, the eyes, teeth, and as many bones as pos- 
 sible, saving the tusks. After washing the head in plenty 
 of cold water, pour boiling water over it, and then put it 
 into a tub with enough equally mixed vinegar and cold 
 water to cover it ; add a cupful of salt, a tablespoonful each 
 of whole cloves, mace, pepper, sage-leaves, bay-leaves, and 
 chopped onion. Put the tongue with the head, and two 
 pounds of boar's meat. Let the head stand in this pickle 
 for three days, then drain it ; use the meat and tongue to 
 
336 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOA'ERY. 
 
 replace the bones, sew the head in shape, roll it in a cloth, 
 and put it into a large boiler with boiling water enough to 
 cover it, a pint of sherry or madeira, a heaping tablespoon- 
 ful of salt, a carrot, a turnip, and an onion peeled and sliced, 
 
 Boar's Head, Untrimmed, 
 
 a lemon sliced, and a bouquet of herbs. Let the head boil 
 slowly for six hours, removing all scum that rises, and keep-, 
 ing it well covered. When the head is done, let it cool in 
 the water it has been boiled in ; then glaze and garnish it ; 
 
 Boar's Head, Garnished. 
 
 replace the tusks ; make eyes of the round end of the white 
 Of hard-boiled eggs and a bit of red beet for the pupil ; 
 garnish the dish, and serve it cold. Or garnish and decorate 
 it more elaborately, as shown in the accompanying engrav- 
 
REMOVES {relev£s). 337 
 
 ing, which represents a boar's head garnished with holly and 
 aspic jelly, as a Christmas dish. 
 
 A NEW-ENGLAND BOILED DINNER. 
 
 Select a thick piece •of corned beef from the round, 
 weighing about six pounds ; wash it in cold water, and put 
 it over the iire in a large pot, with sufficient cold water to 
 cover it three or four inches ; set the pot where its contents 
 will slowly reach the boiling-point, and boil very gently for 
 four hours from the time it is first placed on the fire. After 
 the meat is put to cook, wash four large beets very carefully, 
 without breaking the skin or cutting off the stalks or roots, 
 and put them oven the fire to boil in another pot, in plenty 
 of actually boiling water. Then peel four large white turnips 
 and one large yellow turnip ; cut the latter in four pieces ; 
 scrape four carrots and four parsneps ; peel a dozen medium- 
 sized potatoes ; trim and wash a firm head of white cabbage, 
 cut its stalk out without breaking the leaves apart, and bind 
 it with broad tape to keep it whole while cooking. As fast 
 as the vegetables are prepared, lay them in plenty of cold 
 water until they are needed for cooking. If onions are used, 
 they should be boiled in a separate saucepan. Some fami- 
 lies like a dish of boiled squash mashed with pepper, salt, 
 and butter, served as part of a boiled dinner ; in the fall and 
 winter, pumpkin is often used like the squash. 
 
 When the meat begins to boil, the scum which rises to 
 the surface of the pot-liquor should be carefully skimmed 
 off, and a medium-sized red or green pepper put into the 
 pot. As already indicated, the pot must be large enough 
 to hold both meat and vegetables; the vegetables, except 
 the beets and onions, are to be added to the meat in proper 
 succession, allowing sufficient time for each kind to cook. 
 The carrots, parsneps, and turnips will boil in about two 
 •hours; the cabbage and onions, in. one hour ; the potatoes, 
 
338 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 squash, and pumpkin, in about half an hour. The beets will 
 boil in from two to four hours, according to their size ; they 
 are to be taken up when tender, their skins are to be rubbed 
 off with a wet towel, and then they are to be sliced and 
 covered with vinegar. They are generally served cold ; but 
 if they are liked hot, they can be heated at dinner-time, with 
 a litde salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 When the boiled dinner is cooked, the meat is placed in 
 the middle of a large platter, and the vegetables, with the 
 exception of those specified for separate serving, are arranged 
 around it. A piece of salt pork is sometimes boiled with 
 the beef. 
 
 CORNED BEEF BRISKET. 
 
 Choose about seven pounds of the navel end of the 
 brisket of corned beef; wash it well in plenty of cold water ; 
 put it over the fire in a large pot containing sufficient cold 
 water to cover the beef, and let it slowly approach the boil- 
 ing point, removing all scum as it rises. The beef can either 
 be left flat, or the bones be taken out and a compact roll 
 be made of it, secured by a string. Boil the beef steadily 
 and gently for four hours after it begins to boil ; it may then 
 be served hot, or may be pressed until cold before it is 
 used. 
 
 Cabbage is usually served with corned beef; cooked ac- 
 cording to directions given among the vegetable recipes, it 
 is excellent ; or it may be boiled with the beef, only it 
 should not be boiled longer than just time enough to make 
 it tender, which is less than half an hour usually. 
 
 MUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 Mustard sauce made as follows is good with the beef : — 
 After the beef has been boiling for two hours, take a pint 
 of the broth from it to use for sauce. Peel and chop a 
 bunch of chives, a shallot, or two or three small green 
 
REMOVES {RELEVes). 339 
 
 onions, and put them over the fire in a pint of broth to boil 
 for half an hour ; then add a level tablespoonful of dry 
 mustard, a gill of vinegar, and a high seasoning of salt and 
 pepper ; stir the sauce until it is thoroughly incorporated, 
 and then keep it hot until it is required for the beef. 
 
 BEEF'S HEART, CORNED. 
 
 After washing and trimming a beef's heart, soak it for two 
 days in a brine made as follows : Dissolve salt in cold water 
 until an egg will float on its surface, then place this brine 
 over the fire, let it boil once, skim it clear, and then cool it. 
 Pour the cold brine over the heart, and let it stand for two 
 days covered from the light and air. Wash the heart in 
 cold water, put it over the fire with enough more cold water 
 to cover it, and a red pepper or a teaspoonful of pepper- 
 corns, and boil it gently for about three hours, or until it is 
 quite tender, cooking it very slowly and steadily. After 
 putting the heart to boil, carefully wash six medium-sized 
 beets, without closely trimming their roots or stalks, and 
 put them over the fire in a large pot of boiling water without 
 salt ; boil them steadily for three hours, and then skim them 
 by rubbing them in a wet cloth, and keep them hot in a 
 covered dish near the fire, dressing them with a tablespoon- 
 ful of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a dust of cayenne- 
 pepper. Half an hour before the heart is done, peel a quart 
 of potatoes, and boil them in salted boiling water until they 
 are tender enough to pierce with a fork; then drain the 
 water off them, cover them with a folded towel to retain 
 the steam, and place the saucepan containing them on the 
 back of the stove to keep them warm until the heart is 
 done. 
 
 When the heart is cooked, put it oh a hot platter, arrange 
 the beets and potatoes around it, and serve it hot. 
 
340 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PICKLED BEEF'S^ TONGXTES. 
 
 Cut off the roots of the tongues, leaving ori.some of the 
 fat; sprinkle them all over thickly with salt, and let them 
 lie on a slanted board over night to drain ; mix together a 
 cupful each of brown sugar and salt, a heaping tablespoohful 
 of powdered saltpetre, and a tablespoonful each of ground 
 pepper, cloves, allspice, and mace, for two tongues; rub 
 this mixture well over the tongues ; put them in a pickling- 
 tub, and let them stand in a cool place for ten or twelve 
 days, turning them every day in the pickle. After that 
 time they may be dried, or smoked, or cooked as soon as 
 wanted. 
 
 BOILED TONGUE. 
 
 Wash a pickled tongue, put it into enough cold water to 
 cover it, and let it soak over night ; the next morning wash 
 it, put it over the fire in enough fresh cold water to cover it, 
 and boil it gently until it is very tender ; then remove the skin, 
 and serve the tongue hot, with any sharp sauce and boiled 
 green vegetables, or with pickled beets or red cabbage. If 
 the tongue is to be served cold, return it to the liquor in 
 which it was boiled, after skimming it, and let it cool there ; 
 this will make it very tender and juicy. 
 
 BAKED TONGUE. 
 
 Boil the tongue as directed in the preceding recipe, and ^ 
 after the skin is removed dust it with .bread or cracker 
 crumbs, and brown it in a hot oven. 
 
 BOILED TURKEY WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 Choose a tender hen turkey weighing about seven pounds. 
 Have it carefully plucked, singed, and wiped with a wet 
 towel ; cut pff the head and feet, draw it without breaking 
 the intestines ; either stuff it with equal quantities df stale 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£s). 34I 
 
 bread and oysters, seasoned with salt and pepper, or truss it 
 unstuffed ; put it over the fire in sufficient boiling water to 
 cover it, remove all scum as it rises, and boil the turkey 
 gently for about two hours, or until it is tender. While the 
 turkey is being boiled, carefiiUy remove all bits of shell from 
 a quart of medium-sized oysters, and strain their liquor. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE. 
 
 When the turkey is nearly done, put in a saucepan over 
 the fire, two level tablespoonfuls of flour, and two heaping 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, and stir them together until they 
 bubble ; then gradually stir in the oyster-liquor and enough 
 broth from the turkey to make a sauce of the consistency 
 of cream ; season it palatably jvith salt and white pepper, 
 and let it boil for a moment ; put the saucepan containing 
 the sauce into a pan of hot water, and place it on the back 
 of the fire to keep hot until just before dishing the turkey ; 
 then put in the oysters, and let them boil once ; meantime 
 dish the turkey, remove the trussing-cords, pour a little of 
 the oyster-sauce over it, and serve it with the rest of the 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 BOILED TURKEY WITH CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Dress the turkey as directed in the preceding recipe, 
 substituting celery, washed and chopped, for the oysters, 
 • both in the stuffing and in the sauce, and taking care that 
 the celery used for the sauce is very white and tender. 
 
 BOILED CHICKEN. 
 
 Carefully pluck and draw a tender chicken, singe it, wipe 
 it with a wet towel, cut off the head and feet, and truss it 
 for boiling ; put the chicken over the fire in sufficient water 
 to cover it, with a level tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoon- 
 ful of peppercorns or a small red pepper. Boil the chicken 
 
342 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 until it is tender, then serve it with the cream onion sauce. 
 A fowl boiled very gently for about four hours, or until it 
 is tender, and sensed with cream onion sauce, makes an 
 economical and palatable dish. The chicken or fowl may 
 be boiled until nearly tender enough to serve, then taken 
 from the broth, put into a saucepan with the onion sauce, 
 and the cooking finished in this way. 
 
 CREAM ONION SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and slice a pint of onions, put them over the fire in 
 a clean saucepan with enough milk to cover them, and stew 
 them until tender ; when the onions are tender, beat them 
 to a pulp with a fork, add to them a palatable seasoning of 
 salt and white pepper ; add sufficient milk to form a sauce 
 of the consistency of cream, and a heaping tablespoonful of 
 butter ; use this sauce with boiled chicken. 
 
 HOW TO PRESERVE BAKED AND ROASTED MEATS. 
 
 At changing seasons, when the temperature is so variable, 
 the keeping of meat becomes an important question to the 
 housekeeper. There can be no better method than that em- 
 ployed by the old Pennsylvania Dutch housewives, when an 
 animal was killed on the farm. After the portions of carcass 
 suitable for salting were selected, and those chosen for imme- 
 diate use set aside, the remainder was cut up in joints of 
 available size, and either baked or roasted to the desired 
 point, — rare, medium rare, or well done ; stone jars or 
 wooden tubs were selected to correspond with the size of the 
 joints, a margin of about two inches in all directions being 
 allowed. While the joints were being cooked, a large kettle 
 of lard or drippings was melted. When the carcass was of 
 pork, lard was made from the leaf; when of any other meat, 
 the suet was rendered. When the joints were cooked, each 
 one was put into its jar or firkin, with a reversed plate in the 
 
REMOVES {RELEV£s). 343 
 
 bottom to keep the meat from resting against it, and then 
 the hot fat was poured around and over the meat ; when the 
 fat cools, it entirely excludes the air, and if the jars are cov- 
 ered and kept in a cool place, the meat will keep for several 
 months. When required for use, the meat is to be taken 
 out of the fat, and quickly heated and served. The fat can 
 then be clarified by melting it, in a kettle of water, and allow- 
 ing it to cool in a. cake on the surface of the water ; when 
 the fat is cold, the sediment of the under side of the cake 
 can be scraped off, and the lard or dripping will then be 
 ready to use. The fat does not need clarifying if care is 
 taken to separate from the rest that portion which has imme- 
 diately surrounded the meat ; this brown part of the fat can 
 be used in making gravy for the meat. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROASTS (R6tis). 
 
 THE roasts proper are given in this chapter, and also 
 those dishes of birds and game which sometimes re- 
 place the roasts, and are more suitable for a dinner of sev- 
 eral courses than the large joints of roast meat. The baked 
 meats are given among the removes, together with the large 
 boiled joints, and the boiled poultry. The smaller dishes of 
 broiled, fried, and stewed meats are given among the entrees, 
 together with some of the smaller baked meats. The roasts 
 should always be accompanied by some kind of green salad, 
 if it is obtainable, because it greatly enhances the flavor of 
 the meat. When wine is served with the roast, it may be 
 either champagne or Burgundy. Sometimes the salad im- 
 mediately follows the roast, and in that case it should be 
 accompanied by some form of cheese. 
 
 ROAST BEEF. 
 
 Roast beef canbe prepared before an ordinary range or 
 cooking-stove by using a tin case, open on the side towards 
 the fire, called a Dutch oven ; any large box of tin bright 
 enough to reflect the heat will serve for this purpose, if it 
 has a bottom tight enough to retain the drippings from the 
 meat. The regular Dutch oven is provided with a hook, 
 upon which the meat is hung ; if it has to be otherwise sup- 
 ported, the best method is by a rack, which will raise the 
 meat to about the middle of the oven, where the heat is 
 
ROASTS {rOTIS). 345 
 
 the most regular. Wipe the beef with a wet towel after it has 
 been trimmed by the butcher, suspend it in the Dutch oven, 
 and place it before the fire where it will brown quickly; 
 after it is brown, season it with salt and pepper ; if a frothed 
 surface is desired, dust the beef with dry flour, and then 
 moisten it with drippings every fifteen minutes, after it is 
 brown ; allow fifteen minutes to a pound for roasting beef 
 medium rare before a hot fire. When the beef is done, put 
 it on a hot platter, and quickly make the gravy as follows, 
 or do this before taking up the beef. Put over the fire in a 
 frying-pan, dripping-pan, or saucepan, two tablespoonfuls of 
 beef-drippings, and one of dry flour, and stir them until they 
 are brown ; then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water, and 
 a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; let the gravy so 
 made boil for one minute, and then serve it with the beef. 
 
 BOAST LAMB WITH SOBBEL-SAUCE. 
 
 Have the bone cut from a shoulder of lamb without man- 
 gling it ; replace the bone with crumbs of bread, highly sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, and sew or tie the lamb so as to 
 enclose the crumbs ; put the lamb upon a spit, or into a pan 
 just large enough to hold it, and either roast it before a hot 
 fire, or bake it in a very hot oven. When the meat is brown, 
 season it with salt and pepper, and cook it to the required 
 degree; about fifteen minutes to a pound will cook it 
 medium well done. While the lamb is being cooked, pre- 
 pare some sorrel-sauce as follows, and when the meat is done, 
 remove the strings, and serve it on the sorrel-sauce. 
 
 SOBBEL-SAUCE. 
 
 For this sauce, either the large-leaved field-sorrel, or the 
 small trefoil of the wood-sorrel, may be used. Thoroughly 
 wash the herb, and put it over the fire in an earthen or porce- 
 lain-lined saucepan, with only the water which remains upon 
 
346 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 it after it is washed, and a tablespoonful of butter to each 
 pint of sorrel ; cover the saucepan, and cook the sorrel until 
 it is tender enough to beat to a pulp with a fork ; then sea- 
 son it palatably with salt and pepper, add to it enough 
 butter to make it semi-liquid, and serve it on the dish with 
 the lamb. Another form of sorrel-sauce is made by mixing 
 smoothly over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 flour, then stirring with them a pint of boiling water, a cup- 
 ful of boiled sorrel-pulp, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 bhw-quabter of lamb. 
 
 The hind-quarter of lamb, which is cut for marketing as 
 shown in the annexed picture, is rather larger than the fore- 
 
 Hind-Quarter of Lamb. 
 
 quarter, and always more expensive. It is cooked and 
 served as directed in the recipe for roast lamb. 
 
 ROAST LAMB. 
 
 After a quarter of lamb is trimmed, wipe it with a wet 
 towel, put it in front of the fire, or in a very hot oven, and 
 brown it quickly ; after it is brown, season it with salt and 
 pepper, dust it with flour, and baste it with the drippings 
 every fifteen minutes, if a frothed surface is desired ; allow 
 the lamb to cook about twenty minutes to a pound. Serve 
 
ROASTS {rotis). 347 
 
 the lamb with gravy made by browning together two table- 
 spoonfuls of its drippings, and one of dry flour, and then 
 stirring with them a pint of boiling water, and a palatable 
 seasoning of salt and pepper ; as soon as the gravy boils, 
 serve it. Mint-sauce may be served with roast lamb, made 
 by mixing together a cupful each of vinegar and sugar, and 
 half a cupful of chopped green mint. 
 
 SADDLE or LAMB ROASTED. 
 
 The saddle of lamb is simply the two loins cut off before 
 the carcass is spUt open down the back; it is best when 
 roasted before an open fire, but it may be nicely cooked in 
 a very hot oven. If it is of medium size, it will cook in an 
 hour and a half; but if it is large, it will require nearly two 
 hours. It is first to be exposed to intense heat until it is 
 browned ; then it is to be seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
 every fifteen minutes to be basted with the drippings which 
 fall from it. About half an hour before the loin is done, 
 make the sauce as follows ; and when the lamb is cooked, 
 dish it on a hot platter, and serve the cucumber sauce in a 
 gravy-boat with it. 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Peel two large cucumbers, cut them in thin slices, and let 
 them fall into salted cold water ; peel and slice one medii^m- 
 sized onion, put it into a saucepan with the cucumbers, and 
 enough broth or gravy to cover them, and let them stew for 
 fifteen minutes ; then season the sauce highly with salt and 
 pepper, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and 
 use it with roast lamb. 
 
 SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
 
 The saddle of mutton is the double loin, cut before the 
 carcass is split open, and trimmed as shown in the annexed 
 
348 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 cut. After the saddle is so prepared, it is roasted or baked, 
 according to the directions given elsewhere, and then served 
 hot, with currant-jelly. There is no better or more whole- 
 
 SaMIe of Mutton. 
 
 some meat than a prime saddle of mutton, which has been 
 hung long enough to become tender. 
 
 Directions are given in the chapter on Carving, for carving 
 the saddle at table. 
 
 BEAR MEAT. 
 
 Bear-meat in good condition is not unlike beef, and it 
 may be cooked in the same way. 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 Like bear-meat, buffalo resembles beef, when it is in prime 
 condition. The flesh is darker than beef, and the fat has a 
 reddish color ; the heart, liver, and marrow are like those of 
 beef; the latter is delicious; the tongue, and flesh of the 
 hump, are the choice portions ; buffalo-meat may be cooked 
 like beef, and should be rather well done. 
 
 BROILED VENISON. 
 
 Cut venison into steaks about half an inch thick, broil 
 it over a very hot fire, on a buttered gridiron, for four min- 
 utes on each side. While the venison is being broiled, melt 
 
ROASTS {k6tis). 349 
 
 on a dish before the fire, or in the ovqn, equal parts of 
 curiant-jelly and butter, a tablespoonful of each to a pound 
 of venison, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; 
 put the venison on this dish when it is broiled, turn it over 
 once, and then serve it hot. 
 
 FRIED VENISON. 
 
 Put a thick slice of venison in the frying-pan with two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, and brown it quickly on both 
 sides ; season it with salt and pepper, add two tablespoon- 
 fuls of currant-jelly, and finish cooking the venison to the 
 desired degree; then serve it, with the gravy it yields 
 poured over it. 
 
 BAKED SADDLE OF VENISON. 
 
 The saddle of venison is the double loin. Have the ribs 
 cut off close to use for soup, stew, or pastry ; wipe all the 
 hairs off with a soft cloth wet with warm water ; tie thickly 
 buttered paper over the upper part of the saddle, and lay 
 it on a rack in a baking-pan ; quickly brown the joint in 
 a hot oven ; then remove the paper, season the venison 
 with salt and pepper ; put into the dripping-pan half a cup- 
 ful each of butter, boiling water, and currant-jelly, and baste 
 the venison ivith this sauce until it is entirely brown ; then 
 serve it hot, at once, with the sauce in a gravy-boat. 
 
 ROAST VENISON. 
 
 The loin, saddle, haunch, or shoulder of venison may be 
 roasted. After the piece has been carefully trimmed, and 
 freed from hairs, wipe it with a wet towel, season it with 
 salt and pepper, cover it with several thicknesses of buttered 
 paper, or with a paste made of flour and water, to retain 
 its juice ; put the venison before the fire, and roast it 
 twenty minutes to a pound; then take off the paper or 
 paste, and quickly brown the venison. If a frothed appear- 
 
350 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ance is desired, dredge the venison with flour, and baste it 
 with butter,^before browning it. Serve the roast venison 
 very hot, with currant-jelly. 
 
 LARDED SADDLE OF VENISON. 
 
 After a saddle of venison has been trimifled, wipe it with 
 a wet cloth to remove all hairs; lard it according to the 
 directions given for larding fricandeaux of veal ; cover the 
 lardoons with several thicknesses of buttered paper, and 
 then roast or bake the venison according to the directions 
 given for cooking this game, and serve it hot, with currant- 
 jelly and any good venison sauce, recipes for which are 
 given elsewhere. 
 
 A larded saddle of venison is illustrated in the chapter on 
 Carving. 
 
 SHOULDER OF VENISON LARDED. 
 
 Bone and stuff a shoulder of venison, according to the 
 directions given in any of the recipes for forcemeats. Lard 
 it, and either roast or bake it, protecting the lardobns with 
 several thicknesses of buttered paper ; if the meat is basted 
 while it is being cooked, take care not to baste the larded 
 part, because that would soften the lardoons. When the 
 venison is nearly done, season it with salt and cayenne, 
 remove the buttered paper, brown the lardoons, and then 
 remove the strings used to confine the stuffing, and serve 
 the venison hot, with currant-jelly, or any of the sauces 
 given for venison. 
 
 This dish is illustrated in the chapter on Carving. 
 
 HOW TO SKIN RABBITS, HARES, AND SQUIRRELS. 
 
 Cut the skin of all the legs in a circle around the joint 
 nearest the feet, and cut off the fore-feet ; then cut the skin 
 off the hind-legs, inside the legs, from the feet to the tail ; 
 loosen the skin, and turn it back until it is quite removed 
 from the hind-legs ; next, tie the hind-legs together, and 
 
/iOASTS {roti^. 351 
 
 hang the carcass up by them ; now pull the skin downward 
 toward the head, slipping out the fore-legs when they are 
 reached ; when the neck is reached, either cut off the head 
 with the skin attached to it, or leave it on the body, and 
 continue to pull the skin downward until the nose is reached ; 
 cut off the end of the nose. As the head is considered a 
 delicacy by some persons, it is generally cooked with the 
 rest of the carcass. After the skin has been removed, the 
 carcass should be carefully wiped with a wet cloth to re- 
 move any hairs which may adhere to it ; the entrails should 
 then be removed, the blood, and the liver, heart, and 
 kidneys being saved ; the inside of the carcass should be 
 washed with a cupful of vinegar, which is to be used with 
 the blood for making whatever sauce or gravy is to be 
 served with the game. The liver, heart, and kidneys are 
 either cooked whole, or chopped very fine and mixftd with 
 the gravy. 
 
 HARE BARDED AND ROASTED. 
 
 After the hare has been dressed, as directed in the recipe 
 for skinning hares and rabbits, bard it with a large slice of 
 fat salt pork, as shown in the engraving of barded hare, and 
 roast it on a spit before a hot fire, seasoning it with salt 
 and pepper. A tender hare will roast in about an hour. 
 The blood of tihe hare, and the drippings, will make a good 
 brown gravy. Cleanse and chop the liver and heart, and 
 stew them in the blood, together with a little vinegar and 
 water; when they are tender, season the sauce with salt 
 and cayenne, thicken it with a little of the drippings and 
 flour browned together, and then serve it with the roast 
 hare, sending currant-jelly to the table with it. 
 
 BARE LARDED AND BAKED. 
 
 After a young hare is dressed, lard it all over the middle 
 of the back, just as other meats are larded; cover the 
 
352 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 larded portion with buttered or oiled paper to prevent 
 burning, removing the paper long enough to permit the 
 lardoons to brown when the hare is done ; and serve it 
 like roast hare, with brown gravy and currant-jelly. 
 
 An illustration of larded hare is given in the chapter on 
 Carving. 
 
 Rabbits and large squirrels may be roasted and baked. 
 
 ORTOLANS, OR SNOW-BUNTINGS. 
 
 These birds are said, in the current market report, to 
 have been caught, of late years, in the Jersey meadows. 
 They are properly in season in the early spring ; but, like 
 their kindred the reed-birds, they are often seen at different 
 seasons in different localities. Any of the recipes given for 
 reed-birds will serve for cooking ortolans : another is given 
 below. Like all buntings, ortolans have a delicate flesh of 
 delicious flavor, and when fat almost melt in the mouth. 
 As the flesh of ortolans bruises easily, they should be care- 
 fully handled. The best method of cooking them is broil- 
 ing, although any of the recipes given for cooking small 
 birds will answer for cooking ortolans. 
 
 BROILED ORTOLANS. 
 
 Rub with melted butter or salad-oil as many sheets of 
 white note-paper as there are birds, and cut them just large 
 enough to double over the birds, and turn in all around the 
 edges like a hem, as shown in the illustration of chops 
 broiled in paper, in order to preserve the fat and the trail 
 while the birds are being cooked. 
 
 Carefully pluck and singe the birds ; cut off the beaks and 
 claws, skin the heads and necks, wipe them with a clean 
 cloth, twist the feet, and lay the heads close to the sides of 
 the birds, and then enclose the birds in the oiled paper ; or, 
 instead of the sheets of paper, use the small paper cases 
 
liOASTS {HOTIS). 353 
 
 made by the confectioners, after dipping them in oil. After 
 the birds are enclosed in the paper, or laid in the cases, put 
 them on a gridiron, over a very gentle fire, and broil them 
 for about five minutes, or until they swim in their own fat ; 
 then serve them at once in the papers, which are removed 
 upon the plate just before eating the birds. 
 
 Epicures take the birds by the legs, and bite them in 
 mouthfuls, beginning at the head. The bones are so small 
 and tender that they can be eaten. Some persons cut the 
 birds in quarters before eating, and do not eat the gizzards ; 
 the trail is always eaten. 
 
 FBIED BEED-BIRDS.^ 
 
 Pluck and dress the birds, splitting them down the back ; 
 season them rather highly with salt and pepper ; roll them 
 in flour, Indian meal, or sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and 
 fry them brown in butter and lard equally mixed, and made 
 smoking hot before the birds are put into it : or, dress them, 
 and split, season, and fry them without breading or flouring 
 them. They must be served very hot, as soon as they are 
 brown. 
 
 BROIUED BEED-BIBDS. 
 
 After dressing the reed-birds without splitting them, put 
 an oyster in each one, season them with salt and pepper, 
 and quickly broil them over a hot fire for about five minutes, 
 and serve them hot at once. 
 
 WOODCOCK ON TOAST. 
 
 After the birds are plucked, skin the heads, wash the bills 
 and feet, and cut off the claws ; twist the legs, and run the 
 bills through the sides of the birds as shown in the accom- 
 
 ' When it is necessary to keep reed-birds hot after cooking them, they should be 
 placed in a covered tin pail set in boiling water; but, if possible, they should be served 
 as soon as they are cooked. 
 
354 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 panying picture, and either roast or bake them. Put under 
 the birds, while they are being cooked, neatly cut slices of 
 bread to catch the drippings. When the woodcock are 
 
 Woodcock on Toast. 
 
 brown, season them with salt and pepper ; and when they 
 are done, serve them on the toast, with some watercress 
 or a little parsley and lemon on the dish with them. 
 
 FRIED WOODCOCK. 
 
 Dress the birds as directed in the preceding recipe ; have 
 i'eady a frying-kettle half full of smoking-hot fat, and as 
 many slices of bread as there are birds. Trim the crust 
 from the bread, and toast it delicately while the woodcock 
 are being fried ; plunge the birds into the hot fat, fry them 
 a delicate brown, then sprinkle them with salt, and serve 
 them on the toast. 
 
 SNIPE FRIED IN OIL. 
 
 Until within a few years, there prevailed among American 
 housekeepers an unfounded prejudice against the use of 
 olive-oil in cooking. As a matter of fact, there is no cleaner 
 fat than pure olive-oil. In warm weather a good oil is pref- 
 erable to butter or lard for frying ; rancid oil should never 
 be used. To fry any substance in oil, put the oil over the 
 fire in a small, deep frying-kettle, so that a comparatively 
 small quantity will suffice to cover the article which is to 
 be fried ; and when a thin bluish smoke begins to rise from 
 the oil, it will be found to be hot enough for frying. To 
 prepare snipe for frying, remove all the feathers, and draw 
 
HOASTS {rotis). 355 
 
 the birds, wipe them all over with a wet towel, cut off the 
 claws, and twist the legs together ; either roll the birds in 
 flour or Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper, or bread 
 them by dipping them first in fine crumbs, then in beaten 
 egg, and again in crumbs ; or put them into the hot oil with- 
 out any foreign substance on them. When the birds are 
 crisp and light brown, they are done. Care must be taken 
 not to cook them slowly and long, for they will be dried 
 and hardened by so doing. If the oil is smoking hot, about 
 a couple of minutes will be long enough to fry the snipe ; 
 when they are brown, lay them on brown paper for a few 
 moments to free them from grease, and then serve them 
 hot. A few cresses, or some sour oranges sliced and dressed 
 with salad-oil and cayenne, will form a good garnish for the 
 fried snipe. 
 
 SNIPE BROILED -WHOLE. 
 
 Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them on a wet towel, 
 dip them in butter which has been melted and seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, place them over a hot fire, and broil 
 them for three minutes on each side. This length of time 
 will cook them medium rare ; about fifteen minutes over 
 a hot fire will cook them thoroughly. Serve the birds as 
 soon as they are done. 
 
 ROAST PLOVER. 
 
 Pluck the birds carefully ; cut off the claws, and twist the 
 feet close to the body; truss the head under one wing; 
 wipe the birds with a wet towel, tie a thin slice of fat salt 
 pork or bacon over the breast of each one, and roast them 
 on a spit before an open fire, with toast laid under them to 
 catch the trail ; or lay them on slices of toast, and bake 
 them in a hot oven. About fifteen minutes should be al- 
 lowed for cooking them ; when they are done, put a little 
 butter, pepper, and salt over them, and serve them hot. 
 
3S6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 QUAIL BARBED ANB ROASTEB. 
 
 After quail or any small birds are dressed, they can be 
 barded by wrapping them in a thin slice of bacon or fat 
 pork, as shown in the accompanying engraving, and then 
 
 Small Birds Barded and Roasted. 
 
 either roasted on a spit before the fire, or baked in the 
 oven. When the birds are cooked, remove the strings used 
 to confine the pork, and serve them on any green salad, or 
 on toast. 
 
 ROAST QUAIL. 
 
 To prepare this dish successfully, a clear, hot, open fire is 
 best ; but, in default, a very hot oven will finish them. 
 Pluck, singe, and draw the birds, wipe them with a wet 
 towel, and cut off the heads and feet ; wrap each bird in a 
 slice of fat salt pork, and pack them closely in a saucepan 
 just large enough to hold them; season them highly with 
 salt and cayenne, pour over them just enough boiling water 
 to cover them, put the cover on the saucepan, and place it 
 over a hot fire for five or ten minutes; then take up the 
 quail, remove the pork, wipe the birds on a clean towel, rub 
 them all over with butter, and roast them brown before a 
 very hot fire, or in a hot oven, basting them twice with more 
 butter and the drippings from them. Meantime, strain the 
 gravy in which they were stewed, and melt with it an equal 
 quantity of currant-jelly for sauce, or use cold currant-jelly 
 with them. Serve the birds hot directly they are brown. 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). 357 
 
 BAKED QUAIL. 
 
 After quail are dressed, put them into a pan large enough 
 to hold them, dust them over with flour, season them with 
 salt and pepper, put a little butter on each one, and bake 
 them for about twenty minutes ; when the quail are brown, 
 take them up, and keep them hot ; put the dripping-pan in 
 which they were baked over the fire, stir in a teaspoonful of 
 flour and about half a pint of water ; let the gravy thus made 
 boil for a moment, and then serve it with the quail. 
 
 BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 
 
 Pluck, singe, and wipe the duck ; spKt it down the back, 
 and remove the intestines ; put it between the bars of a 
 buttered double gridiron, and broil it over a hot fire, leaving 
 the inside turned to the fire for twelve minutes ; then turn 
 the skin to the fire just long enough to brown it ; season the 
 duck with salt and pepper, and serve it at once. The asser- 
 tion that canvas-back ducks owe their delicious flavor to 
 the wild celery upon which they feed, is open to question. 
 The ^vriter has eaten ducks killed in the marshes of the 
 great Western lakes, and in the far North-western territories, 
 in localities where there are no beds of wild celery growing ; 
 and the flavor of the birds quite equalled that of those 
 bagged at Havre de Grace. The flavor of the birds is best 
 preserved by cooking them quickly by an intense fire, and 
 serving them on very hot plates. The usual garnishes are 
 currant-jelly, fried hominy, or celery. Sometimes a mayon- 
 naise dressing is served with the celery. A recipe for this 
 dressing is given elsewhere. The best canvas-back ducks 
 are those which are heavy in proportion to their size, and 
 have full bright eyes, and soft pliable feet. The birds deteri- 
 orate with long keeping ; they should not be drawn until just 
 before using them, and should never be washed. The more 
 
358 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 quickly they are cooked, the finer they will be ; and the hot 
 platter for serving, and hot plates, should always be ready 
 before the ducks are done. The ducks should never be 
 overdone. 
 
 BOAST CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 
 
 After a canvas-back has been dressed, put it before a 
 very hot fire, and quickly brown it ; let it cook twenty min- 
 utes ; then season it with salt and pepper, and serve it hot, 
 with celery and currant-jelly. 
 
 CANVAS-BACK DUCK, PHILADELPHIA STYLE. 
 
 Pluck, singe, anci draw the duck,, wipe it on a wet towel, 
 truss the head under the wing, put the bird in a dripping- 
 pan in a very hot oven, and bake it for half an hour. Have 
 ready a lighted chafing-dish ; when the duck is done, transfer 
 it quickly to the chafing-dish, season it with salt and pepper, 
 pour over it the gravy which it has yielded in baking, and 
 serve it at once. 
 
 BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCK, DELMONICO STYLE. 
 
 Dress the duck, split it down the back, rub salad-oil all 
 over it, and season it with salt and pepper ; put it between 
 the bars of a double gridiron, and broil it over a very hot 
 fire for twelve minutes, first exposing the inside to the fire. 
 While the bird is being broiled, melt two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter by a very gentle heat ; mix with the butter a table- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and a very little pepper ; when the duck is 
 broiled, lay it on a hot dish, pour the melted butter over it, 
 and serve it hot at once. 
 
 ROAST WILD DUCK. 
 
 Pluck and singe the duck, wipe it with a wet towel, draw 
 it carefully, and skewer the legs and wings in place. Put 
 
ROASTS {rotis). 359 
 
 into the duck a whole onion peeled, plenty of salt and pep- 
 per, and a glass of claret, and lay it carefully in a dripping- 
 pan just large enough to hold it. If the duck is of medium 
 size, bake it in a hot oven, or roast it before the fire, for fif- 
 teen minutes ; if large, let it cook twenty minutes ; serve it 
 hot with the gravy it yields in cooking, and a dish of currant- 
 jelly. 
 
 FILETS OF WILD DUCK, WITH OBANGE-SAUCE. 
 
 For this dish, use only the breast or filets of wild duck, 
 either broiled or roasted rare. While they are being cooked, 
 cut the rind of a Seville or bitter orange in small shreds, 
 and squeeze the juice ; put the orange rind and juice into 
 a saucepan with a gill of broth, and a glass of madeira, 
 season the sauce palatably with salt and cayenne, simmer 
 it for five minutes, and then serve it with the filets of wild 
 duck. 
 
 ROAST WIDGEON. 
 
 Pluck and singe a pair of widgeons, cut off the heads and 
 claws, draw the birds without breaking the entrails, and wipe 
 them with a wet cloth ; rub them all over with cold butter,^ 
 dredge them with flour, and either roast them before a hot 
 fire for fifteen minutes, or bake them about twenty minutes. 
 Carefully preserve all the gravy that flows from them ; when 
 they are nearly done, dust them with salt and pepper ; 
 serve them hot directly they are done, with the gravy which 
 flows from them, and currant-jelly, or with orange essence 
 made as follows. 
 
 ORANGE ESSENCE SAUCE. 
 
 Chop very fine two, peeled shallots or one onion; grate 
 the yellow rind of a large orange ; chop one ounce of ham 
 or bacon very fine ; put these ingredients into a small sauce- 
 pan, add to them a slight dust of cayenne-pepper, half a 
 pint of the gravy from roast wild fowl, a gill of port-wine, 
 and a saltspoonful of salt, and gently simmer the sauce for 
 
360 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ten minutes ; meantime squeeze the juice from a whole 
 orange and half a lemon into a sauce-boat ; at the end of 
 ten minutes, strain the sauce into the orange and lemon 
 juice, and serve it at once. 
 
 ROAST TEAL. 
 
 Pluck and singe a pair of teal, wipe them with a wet 
 towel, cut off the head and feet, and draw them without 
 breaking the entrails ; put a tablespoonful of butter, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper 
 in each bird, and lay them in a dripping-pan; peel an 
 onion, and put it into the pan with the teal ; set the birds 
 in a very hot oven, and bake them for twenty minutes, or 
 roast them before the fire for fifteen minutes ; in either case, 
 baste them every five minutes, adding more butter if it is 
 required for basting. Just before serving the birds, season 
 them with salt ; serve them with a sauce made as follows, 
 while they are being cooked. 
 
 ONION-SAVCE. 
 
 Peel and chop fine a shallot or a small onion, put it over 
 the fire with a tablespoonful of butter, and when the butter 
 begins to brown, stir in a tablespoonful of flour ; when the 
 flour is brown, add half a pint each of port-wine and boiling 
 water, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful 
 of pepper, and one grate of nutmeg ; stir the sauce until it 
 boils, and then keep it hot ; when the birds are done, pour 
 the drippings from them into the sauce, mix them well with 
 it, and then serve it hot. 
 
 ROAST PRAIRIE CHICKENS OR GROUSE. 
 
 Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them with a wet towel, 
 draw them, season them inside with salt and pepper, put 
 a tablespoonful of butter in each, and sew up the cuts at 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). 36 1 
 
 the neck and vent. Cut a thin slice of fat salt pork to tie 
 over the breast of each bird ; truss them, lay them in a drip- 
 ping-pan with a cupful of any good gravy or broth, or half 
 a cupful each of wine and water, and bake or roast them 
 for an hbur if they are large ; small birds will cook in less 
 time. When they begin to brown, season them with salt 
 and pepper, and rub a little butter" over them. Serve them 
 with a dish of currant-jelly, or with the gravy in the dripping- 
 pan, first removing the grease from it. The pork may be 
 omitted if the flavor is not Uked. 
 
 PRAIRIE CHICKENS BROILED. 
 
 Pluck and singe the birds, wipe them with a wet towel, 
 split them down the back, ■ draw them, and place them 
 between the bars of a buttered double wire gridiron. First 
 expose the inside to the fire until it begins to brown ; turn 
 the breast to the fire, and slightly brown it ; next rub a little 
 butter all over the bird, season it with salt and pepper, and 
 broil it quite brown on the inside, cooking it at least ten 
 minutes ; then finish browning the breast quickly. Serve 
 the prairie-chicken hot, on a hot dish, with a tablespoonful 
 of butter laid over it as soon as it is dished, and send it at 
 once to the table. 
 
 BROILED PARTRIDGE. 
 
 Pluck a pair of partridges, singe them, and wipe them with 
 a wet towel ; split them down the back, breaking the merry- 
 thought or wish-bone to make the breasts lie flat ; rub them 
 all over with cold butter, lay them between the bars of a 
 double wire gridiron, and quickly broil them brown over 
 a hot fire ; serve them with currant-jelly, after lightly sea- 
 soning them with salt and pepper. Watercresses, lettuce, 
 cucumbers, or Saratoga potatoes may be served with broiled 
 grouse, or they may be placed on hot slices of buttered 
 toast. 
 
362 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BOAST PARTRIDGE. 
 
 After a pair of partridges are dressed, put the birds before 
 a hot fire, or in a very hot oven, and brown them quickly ; 
 after they are brown, season them with salt and- pepper, 
 baste them with a little butter, and allow them to cook for 
 about half an hour ; meantime fry a pint of coarse bread- 
 crumbs brown in the frying-kettle, taking care to have the 
 fat smoking hot ; when they are brown, take them up with 
 a skimmer, and lay them on brown paper to free them from 
 grease ; serve the roast partridge on the fried bread-crumbs. 
 If gravy is desired, make it from the drippings in the pan. 
 according to directions already given with roast-bird recipes. 
 
 ROAST PTARMIGAN. 
 
 Ptarmigan, or white grouse, also called willow groiise, a 
 rare bird, is sometimes marketed. It should be kept as 
 long as possible, and then carefully dressed, and either 
 baked or roasted, and served on fried bread-crumbs. The 
 crumbs are first sifted to secure rather larg-e ones of even 
 size, and then fried golden brown in plenty of smoking-hot 
 fat ; only a moment is required to fry them, and as soon as 
 they are properly colored they should be skimmed out of 
 the fat at once, and laid on brown paper to free them from 
 grease. Either brown gravy or bread-sauce is served with 
 ptarmigan. 
 
 PHEASANTS GARNISHED WITH SNIPE. 
 
 In this dish, both the pheasants and the snipe are roasted ; 
 the latter may each have an oyster inserted in it after 
 it is dressed, or a small slice of bacon or fat salt pork 
 wrapped about it, as directed in the recipe for barded birds. 
 The small birds are arranged around the larger ones, and in 
 serving they are helped with them. Any green salad or 
 celery may be served with this dish. 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). 363 
 
 ROAST GUINEA-FOWL. 
 
 When guinea-fowl is young and tender, it is vfery nice. 
 To dress it, pluck it carefully, singe it, draw it without 
 breaking the entrails, and wipe it with a wet towel; if 
 stuffing is desired, use any of the force-meats already given 
 for duck or goose, omitting the sage. Roast the birds before 
 an open fire, or bake them in a hot oven, seasoning them, 
 after they are brown, with salt and pepper; cook them 
 rather well done, and then serve them hot, with plenty of 
 currant-jelly. 
 
 Guinea-fowl may also be stuffed and baked. 
 
 BONED SQUABS AND PIGEONS. 
 
 After the squabs are carefully plucked, cut off the head, 
 wings, and legs, near the body ; cut through the skin down 
 the middle of the back, and then, keeping the knife pressed 
 flat against the carcass of the bird, cut the flesh away from 
 it until the -joints of the wings and legs are reached ; unjoint 
 these, and continue cutting until the ridge of the breast- 
 bone is reached ; it is here that there is most danger of 
 cutting or tearing the skin, so that great care must be ex- 
 ercised to prevent it. When the entire flesh has been freed 
 from the carcass, lay it skin down on the table, take out 
 the wing and leg bones from the inside, and replace the 
 carcass with any good force-meat or stuffing ; well-seasoned 
 sausage-meat will be good for this purpose. Fold the skin 
 over the force-meat, secure it in place with a few stitches, 
 and round the bird in good shape ; roast or bake the boned 
 squabs, and serve them either with aspic jelly or a salad, 
 after removing the string used to confine the force-meat. 
 Orange salad is good with cold birds. 
 
 The squabs may be served hot ; and tender pigeons may 
 be cooked in the same way, or they may be drawn carefully 
 
364 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and either roasted or baked, with or without stuffing, and 
 served with a brown 'gravy. 
 
 BOAST TURKEY POULT. 
 
 In the late spring and summer, turkey poults, or young 
 turkeys, are preferable to the larger and older birds. They 
 may be used as soon as they grow plump and well fleshed. 
 
 Prepare a turkey poult for roasting by carefully removing 
 the feathers, and then singe, and wipe it with a wet towel ; 
 draw it without breaking the intestines ; thoroughly wash a 
 fresh calfs tongue, or several smaller ones, — as many as 
 the turkey will hold ; put the tongue inside the turkey, after 
 seasoning it with a level teaspoonful of salt and a dust of 
 cayenne, and then sew up and truss the turkey ; put it 
 before an open fire, and quickly brown it on all sides, turn- 
 ing it frequendy ; when it is brown, season it with salt and 
 pepper, basting it with the drippings which flow from it. A 
 turkey poult of four or five pounds will roast in about an 
 hour. At the end of three-quarters of an hour, run a sharp 
 thin knife-blade into the flesh, at the joint where the leg is 
 united to the body of the bird, and examine the juice that 
 flows ; if it is brownish in color, the poult is sufficiently 
 cooked ; if the juice is red, the bird is not ye.t done : when 
 the poult is nearly done, change the dripping-pan under it ; 
 pour nearly all the drippings out of the pan, set it over the • 
 fire, stir in a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and continue 
 to stir until the flour is brown ; then gradually add a pint 
 of boiling water, stirring the gravy thus formed until it boils 
 and is quite smooth, then season it palatably with salt and 
 pepper, and it will be ready to use. When the turkey poult 
 is done, remove the trussing-cords or skewers, and serve 
 it with the gravy ; the tongue is carved, and served with the 
 poult. Any green salad, or fresh tomatoes, make a good 
 garnish for the poult. A salad of sour oranges, sliced and 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). 365 
 
 dressed with salad-oil and a little cayenne, is exceedingly 
 good with any roast poultry. 
 
 BOAST TURKEY. 
 
 A large turkey may be roasted in the same way, the stuff- 
 ing being made of tongue ; or any of the following stuffings 
 can be used. 
 
 Baked turkeys are usually called roast. The oven should 
 be very hot in order to cook them well. 
 
 GIBLET STUFFING. 
 
 Put the giblets over the fire, in enough boiling water to 
 cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt and quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, and boil them gently until they are 
 tender ; save the water in which the giblets were boiled, to 
 use for gravy ; chop them quite fine, put them in a frying- 
 pan over the fire with four ounces of butter, two cupfuls 
 of stale bread crumbled fine, a palatable seasoning of salt, 
 pepper, and any powdered sweet herb except sage ; stir 
 all these ingredients together until they are light brown; 
 add a glass of sherry or madeira, and use the force-meat for 
 stuffing the turkey. 
 
 SALT-PORK STUFFING. 
 
 Chop fine a quarter of a pound of fat and lean salt pork, 
 'and break two cupfuls of bread fine ; put them over the 
 fire in a frying-pan with two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, and fry them brown ; season this force-meat rather 
 highly with salt, pepper, and any powdered sweet herb 
 except sage, and use it for stuffing the turkey. 
 
 SXTBT STUFFING. 
 
 Remove all membrane from a quarter of a pound of suet, 
 chop it very fine, mix it with three cupfuls of fine stale 
 
366 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 bread, three raw eggs, a glass of wine, and a palatable sea- 
 soning of powdered marjoram, thyme, salt, and pepper ; use 
 this force-meat for stuffing a turkey. 
 
 POTATO STUFFING. 
 
 Peel, boil, and mash a quart of white potatoes ; add to 
 them a quarter of a pound of butter and a palatable season- 
 ing of salt, pepper, and any sweet herb except sage ; use 
 this force-meat for stuffing the turkey. 
 
 BOAST TURKEY PARTLY BONED. 
 
 Remove all feathers from the turkey, singe it, and wipe 
 it all over with a wet towel. Lay the bird on its breast, 
 and cut down the middle of the back in a straight line ; 
 then, cutting from the neck downward, and keeping the 
 knife-blade close to the carcass, find the joints which unite 
 the wings to the body, and unjoint them, leaving the bones 
 of the wings in the flesh ; then, still cutting close to the 
 bones, reach the thighs, and unjoint them, leaving the bones 
 in the legs ; free the carcass of the turkey entirely from the 
 flesh, taking care not to cut through the outer skin of the 
 bird, especially along the front of the breast-bone. When 
 all the flesh has been taken from the bones in this way, 
 lay it, skin downward,- upon the table, and season it with 
 salt and pepper ; remove the gall from the liver, and place 
 the liver on the skin of the neck, from which the crop has 
 been removed ; next, lay on the flesh of the bird the oyster 
 force-meat, prepared as directed in the following recipe ; 
 draw the skin together at the back, and sew it with large 
 stitches, taking care that enough force-meat is used to fill 
 the body of the turkey out plump. Truss the bird with 
 skewers or string, so that its original shape is restored ; tie 
 a large thin slice of fat salt pork over the breast, and roast 
 it before an open fire, or bake it in a hot oven, about twenty 
 
KOASTS {jiOT/S). 367 
 
 minutes to a pound ; baste the bird every fifteen minutes 
 with the drippings, seasoning it when it is brown ; if a 
 frothed surface is desired, dredge the turkey with flour 
 before basting it. When it is done, remove the skewers or 
 strings which hold it in place, and serve it with gravy made 
 from the drippings in the pan ; the giblets being boiled ten- 
 der, then chopped, and added to the gravy. Serve celery 
 with the roast turkey. 
 
 OYSTER FORCE-MEAT. 
 
 Strain the liquor from a quart of oysters, and pour it over 
 sufiScient stale bread to fill the body of the turkey ; care- 
 fully remove all bits of shell from the oysters, and then add 
 them to the bread with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
 saltspoonful of pepper, and a stalk of celery minced very 
 fine, or a level teaspoonful of celery-leaves dried and 
 powdered ; use the force-meat thus made, for stuffing the 
 turkey, as directed in the preceding recipe. 
 
 The turkey may be stuffed with the same force-meat used 
 for boned turkey, or with any of the usual poultry stuffings. 
 It may be used either hot or cold. An illustration of the 
 dish is given in the chapter on Carving. 
 
 ROAST TURKEY WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 This dish is seldom prepared in this country, because 
 truffles are very expensive, — at least a pound of truffles 
 being required for a small turkey. Of course the fresh 
 truffles are the best ; and when they are obtainable, tliey 
 should be carefully cleansed in cold water, with a soft brush. 
 The canned truffles are to be taken from the liquor in which 
 they are preserved ; the liquor should be used to make 
 the sauce or gravy for the turkey. Keep the finest of the 
 truffles whole ; chop the others very fine ; chop or pound 
 in a mortar the white fat of bacon until the quantity equals 
 
368 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERV. 
 
 that of the truffles ; mix the bacon and truffles, season them 
 palatably with salt and pepper, and stuff the turkey with 
 them after it has been dressed as directed in the recipe for 
 roast turkey; sew up the turkey, truss it, and keep it in 
 a cold place for three days ; then roast or bake it carefully, 
 saving all the drippings for sauces or gravies ; make a gravy 
 as directed for roast turkey, using the giblets and some 
 of the drippings and liquor from the truffles. Serve the 
 truffled turkey either hot or cold. 
 
 LARDED TURKEY. 
 
 The accompanying engraving shows a turkey dressed, 
 trussed with strings, and larded with fat salt pork, ready 
 for roasting or baking. The larded parts of the turkey must 
 
 
 ."'^,'7^' 
 
 -^"/-AA* '■IN. '^.. -^^ *4 
 
 L«*^"' 
 
 .fj*.-: 
 
 Larded Turkey. 
 
 be well covered with oiled or buttered paper while the bird 
 is being cooked : the paper should be taken off just before 
 the turkey is done, in order to allow the lardoons to brown. 
 A young turkey larded and roasted, and served with a 
 garnish of watercresses dressed with a plain French salad- 
 dressing, is one of the most delicious of all poultry roasts. 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). 
 
 369 
 
 IMPLEMENTS FOR LARDING AND TRUSSING. 
 
 The accompanying engravings sliow the needles for lard- 
 ing and trussing. The first represents a case of larding- 
 
 Casa of Larding-Needtes. 
 
 needles of various sizes ; the split ends, in which the lardoons 
 are placed, to be drawn through the flesh, protrude from 
 the case. The second cut shows the large and medium 
 
 Trussing-Needles. 
 
 size of trussing-needles, which vary from four to twelve or 
 more inches in length ; they are used for sewing up cuts 
 in meat, or for trussing meat, game, and poultry. 
 
 SPRING CHICKEN, BROILED. 
 
 After the chicken is plucked, singed, and wiped with a 
 wet towel, split it down the back, dress it without breaking 
 the entrails, break the joints of the wings and legs ; put it 
 between the bars of a buttered double gridiron, and broil 
 it quite brown, not too close to the fire, cooking the inside 
 thoroughly before turning the skin to the fire ; be sure 
 it is quite done at the joints ; then season it with salt and 
 pepper, lay on buttered toast, put a tablespoonful of butter 
 over it, and serve it hot at once. 
 
370 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BARBED CHICKEN OR GAME. 
 
 The accompanying engraving shows a fpwl or chicken, 
 dressed and trussed, with a large thin slice of fat salt pork 
 or bacon tied over the breast : this is called barding. The 
 subsequent cooking may be by braising, baking, or roasting, 
 
 ,mrkk 
 
 as desired. After the fowl is cooked, the strings which are 
 used for trussing and barding are removed, and the bird is 
 served with any sauce or garnish preferred. 
 
 Any rather dry game, like partridge or quail, gains much 
 flavor and succulence by being barded before it is cooked. 
 
 SPRING CHICKEN, BAKED. 
 
 Pluck and singe a spring chicken, wipe it with a wet 
 towel, split it down the back, and dress it without breaking 
 the entrails ; clean the heart, liver, and gizzard, and chop 
 them fine ; put the chicken into a dripping-pan large 
 enough to let it lie out flat, after first breaking the joints 
 of the wings and legs ; season it highly with salt and pepper, 
 sprinkle over it the chopped heart, put a large tablespoon- 
 ful of butter on it, and place it in a very hot oven for about 
 twenty minutes, or until it is done at the joints and nicely 
 browned ; turn it two or three times while it is cooking, to 
 make sure that it is evenly done. Serve the chicken on 
 
ROASTS {ROriS). 371 
 
 buttered toast, pouring over it the gravy in the dripping- 
 pan. 
 
 This is a very nice way to cook chicken when there is 
 not a good broiling-fire. 
 
 ROAST CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Use the chicken boiled for chicken and rice soupj or 
 dress a small fowl carefully, and boil it gently until it is 
 tender, in sufficient water to cover itj while the chicken 
 is being boiled, either boil or roast enough chestnuts to fill 
 it ; if the nuts are to be roasted, make a cross cut on each 
 to prevent the bursting of the shell ; remove the shells and 
 skin of the chestnuts, fill the chicken with them, and brown 
 it quickly, either before an open fire, or in a hot oven, 
 basting it every five minutes with butter, salt, and pepper, 
 mixed together ; serve the chicken as soon as it is brown. 
 
 ROAST GOOSE AND GOSLING. 
 
 Both geese and goslings for roasting are to be dressed like 
 turkeys and chickens, for which recipes have been given. 
 The stuffings are the same, except that sage is used for 
 geese and ducks, and thyme, savory, and marjoram for other 
 poultry. Goslings make a delicious roast. After the birds 
 are cooked, they may be served with any of the gravies or 
 sauces given below. 
 
 GREEN APPLE SAUCE. 
 
 Peel and slice a quart of green apples, put them over the 
 fire with half a cupful of water and a cupful of white sugar, 
 and stew them gently to a pulp, stirring them occasionally to 
 prevent burning ; when the apples are stewed to a pulp, add 
 to them two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of cream, 
 and a very little grated nutmeg ; stir the sauce until the in- 
 gredients are thoroughly mixed, and tiien serve it with roast 
 gosling. 
 
3/2 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 SOBREL-SAUCE. 
 
 Carefully wash a quart of fresh green sorrel-leaves ; put 
 them over the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, and boil 
 them fast for about five minutes, or until they are tender ; 
 then drain them, and throw them into cold water until they 
 are cold ; drain them again, and rub them through a sieve 
 with a potato-masher; put them into a porcelain-lined 
 saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, the juice of a 
 lemon, a tablespoonful of white sugar, and enough brown 
 gravy made from the drippings of the gosling to make the 
 sauce of the proper consistency ; serve it as soon as it is hot, 
 with roast or baked gosling. 
 
 GOOSEBERRTT-SA UCE. 
 
 Remove the tops and stems from a pint of green goose- 
 berries ; put them over the fire in a porcelain saucepan, with 
 two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and half a cupful of 
 boiling water. Stew them gently until they are tender 
 enough to rub through a sieve with a potato-masher. While 
 the gooseberries are being stewed, make a white sauce as 
 follows : Put over the fire in a saucepan a heaping table- 
 spoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until they 
 are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir with them a pint 
 of boiling water, a level teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of 
 a saltspoonful of white pepper. Let the sauce boil for a 
 moment, add the gooseberry-pulp to it and then serve it 
 with roast or baked gosliag. 
 
 This sauce is sometimes colored green with spinach or 
 sorrel-juice. 
 
 GREEN SAUCE FOR GOSLINGS OR GEESE. 
 
 Cut the tops and stems from a pint of green gooseberries ; 
 put them over the fire in a porcelain saucepan with half a 
 
ROASTS {ROTIS). ^y^ 
 
 cupful of boiling water, and four lumps of white sugar ; stew 
 them gently until they are tender enough to rub through a 
 sieve with a potato-masher ; then return them to the sauce- 
 pan. While the gooseberries are being stewed, pound in a 
 mortar a pint of spinach or sorrel leaves, and then put them 
 into a towel, and wring them to extract the juice ; add this 
 juice to the gooseberry-pulp, together with a tablespoonful 
 of butter and a glass of madeira ; heat the sauce, and serve 
 it at once. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST GOOSE OR GOSLING. 
 
 After the gosling is roasted or baked, pour nearly all the fat 
 out of the pan, but do not pour away the brown part of the 
 drippings ; put the pan over the fire, stir into it a heaping 
 tablespoonful of flour, and let the flour brown. Then stir in 
 a pint of boiling water, season the gravy palatably with salt 
 and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it with 
 the gosling. 
 
 The giblets, cooked as directed in the recipe for giblet 
 gravy given below, may be added to this gravy. In that 
 case, the broth in which the giblets were boiled would be 
 used instead of boiling water to make the gravy. 
 
 GIBLET GRAVY FOR ROAST GOOSE OR GOSLING. 
 
 Skin the head and neck of the gosling ; remove all pin- 
 feathers from the tips of the wings ; scald and scrape the 
 legs and feet, after cutting off the claws ; clean the heart and 
 gizzard, and cut away the gall from the liver ; put them all 
 into a saucepan with enough boiling water to entirely cover 
 them, with salt and pepper in a palatable quantity, and boil 
 them until the gosling is nearly done ; then remove all the 
 bones, and chop the flesh and skin. Save the water in 
 which they were boiled ; put over the fire in a saucepan a 
 heaping tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir 
 
374 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 them until they are brown; gradually stir in the chopped 
 giblets and broth. If there is not enough broth to make a 
 gravy of the proper consistency, add a little boiling water ; 
 season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil 
 for a moment, and serve it with the roast gosling. 
 
 DUCKLINGS, OR SPRING DUCKS. 
 
 Although these delicious birds are not so well known as 
 spring chickens, they rival them in tenderness, while they 
 surpass their flavor. In summer, they sell for about the 
 same price. To prepare them for the table, carefully pluck 
 out all pin-feathers, singe them, draw them without breaking 
 the intestines, and stuff them with any good force-meat if 
 they are to be roasted ; or cook them in accordance with 
 any recipe which promises good results. 
 
 ROAST DUCKLINGS WITH ORANGE-SAUCE. 
 
 Dress a pair of ducklings as directed in recipes for other 
 poultry ; chop the liver, heart, and gizzard ; grate the rind of 
 two oranges, and squeeze the juice ; mix the minced liver, 
 etc., with the grated orange-peel, and an equal measure of 
 bread-crumbs softened with cold water ;. season this force- 
 meat palatably with salt and pepper, stuff the ducklings with 
 it, truss them, and roast them before a moderate fire, basting 
 them with their own drippings, or with a little butter ; when 
 the birds are done, set the dripping-pan over the fire ; stir 
 with the drippings a tablespoonful of flour, and brown it, 
 then stir in the orange-juice, and enough hot water to make 
 the sauce the proper consistency; let it boil up, season it 
 palatably with salt and pepper, and serve it with the roast 
 ducklings. 
 
 DUCKLING WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Pluck and singe a large duckling, wipe it with a wet towel, 
 cut off the head and feet, and draw it without breaking the 
 
ROASTS {r6tis). 375 
 
 intestines. Wash two bunches of young green onions, cut 
 them in half-inch lengths, put them into plenty of salted 
 boiling water, boil them for five minutes, and then drain 
 them ; add to the onions an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, 
 a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable seasoning of saU 
 and pepper. Stuff and truss the duckling, put it into a drip- 
 ping-pan just large enough to hold it, and set it in a very 
 hot oven to brown, or roast it before the fire ; when it is 
 brown, season it with salt and pepper, and baste it with the 
 drippings in the pan ; bake the duckling about half an hour, 
 or until it is done ; put the duckling on a hot dish ; set the 
 pan over the fire, stir into the' drippings a heaping table- 
 spoonful of flour, and brown it ; when the flour is brown, add 
 a pint of boiling water, se£ison the gravy thus made with salt 
 and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it with 
 the duckling. It may be served with a garnish of water- 
 cresses, or with apple-sauce, or pickled apples. 
 
 A less quantity of onions may be used with the duckling. 
 . Ducks may be cooked in the same way, or like geese and 
 goslings. 
 
 BUCK WITH ORANGE-SAUCE. 
 
 Pluck and singe the duck, wipe it with a wet towel, and 
 draw it carefully ; chop the liver fine with an equal quantity 
 of fat bacon ; add to it one onion peeled and chopped, a 
 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of salt, 
 quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the grated rind of an 
 orange-; use this force-meat to stuff the duck. After the 
 duck is stuffed, truss it in shape, tie over the breast a large 
 thin slice of fat bacon, put it into a dripping-pan just large 
 enough to hold it, and place it in a hot oven for fifteen or 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 ORANGE-SA UCE. 
 
 While the duck is baking, scrape 'a tablespoonful each of 
 fat bacon and raw onion, and fry them together for five min- 
 
376 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 utes ; add to them the juice of an orange, a glass of port- 
 wine, the drippings from the duck, and a palatable season- 
 ing of salt and pepper ; keep the sauce thus made hot, with- 
 out boiling, and serve it with the duck when the latter is 
 done. * 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SALADS AND VEGETABLES (Salades et EntremSts). 
 
 THE variety of salads depends solely upon the taste and 
 ingenuity of the housekeeper, for the possibilities are 
 illimitable. Those made of uncooked vegetables should 
 always be fresh and crisp. If they are wilted in the least 
 degree, they should be washed, without draining, and put 
 into a cool, dark place to revive. Before using them, all 
 decayed leaves should be removed, and the moisture ab- 
 sorbed from them by using a soft, clean towel. Cucumbers 
 should be peeled, and laid in cold salted water for an hour 
 before serving them, and then shaken dry in a clean towel, 
 and dressed with pepper, salt, vinegar, and plenty of good 
 oil. Radishes should be similarly dressed. If they are 
 very pungent in taste, a very little sugar will modify their 
 sharpness. The young, white leaves of oyster-plant, mixed 
 with an equal quantity of chopped green onions, both being 
 well cleansed, make a good salad. Green peppers, chopped 
 without the seeds, and added to cabbage shaved fine, are 
 excellent. Nasturtium leaves, stems, and buds, washed and 
 chopped, dressed with salt, oil, and vinegar, are very good ; 
 the flowers may be used to garnish the dish. All these 
 salads should be dressed with the plain French salad-dress- 
 ing. Enough for a medium-sized salad may be made by 
 mixing thoroughly together a heaping saltspoonful of salt, 
 half a level saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar, and six of salad-oil. 
 
 377 
 
378 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Tomatoes may be sliced after washing, and served with 
 plain salad-dressing, or peeled and served with a mayon- 
 naise. In either case they should be firm and ripe, sliced 
 nicely, and kept in a very cold place until wanted for the 
 table. 
 
 Celery should be carefully washed in plenty of salted 
 water ; the green leaves and stalks trimmed off, and either 
 used fresh for flavoring sauces, soups, and force-meats, or 
 dried by gentle heat for later use ; the roots should be 
 peeled, dried, and then grated and mixed with salt for table 
 use. The white stalks are best for the table ; after they are 
 washed, they may be kept in a cool, dark place, or in the 
 refrigerator, near the ice. Frozen celery must be laid in 
 plenty of cold water as soon as it is brought into the house, 
 and kept there until all the frost is extracted : thawing it by 
 heat destroys its excellence. 
 
 Lettuce should be kept on or near the ice after it is 
 washed, or in a cool, dark place, entirely wrapped in a cloth 
 wet in cold water : if it is enclosed in an air-tight box after it 
 is wrapped in the wet cloth, it will keep fresh for some time, 
 care being taken to renew the wet cloth, and trim off all 
 defective leaves. 
 
 WATERCRESS SALAD. 
 
 Carefully wash a pint of fresh watercresses, free them 
 from all decayed leaves, break them in lengths of about two 
 inches, and shake them dry in a clean towel ; arrange them 
 neatly on a cold dish, and dress them with three table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, and a dust of salt and 
 pepper. Dandelion, oyster-plant, chicory, escarole, and 
 nasturtium may be served in the same way. 
 
 FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 This is the usual dressing for vegetable salads : enough 
 for a medium-sized salad-bowl can be made by mixing to- 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 379 
 
 gether two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of oil, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. 
 
 SLICED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Peel two or three cucumbers, cut them in thin slices, and 
 let them stand for an hour in very cold salted water ; then 
 drain them, dry them on a towel, and dress them with 
 plenty of oil and vinegar, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
 and cayenne-pepper ; or, with cream salad-dressing. 
 
 Young onions sliced make a good addition to cucumber 
 salad. 
 
 CBEAM SALAD DRESSING 
 
 Is made by mixing sour cream with enough vinegar, pepper, 
 and salt to season the salad palatably. 
 
 PEPPER SALAD. 
 
 Remove the skin from six green peppers, and chop them 
 fine. Peel one red pepper, and chop it very fine ; peel and 
 chop a Spanish onion, weighing a quarter of a pound ; peel 
 and chop six tomatoes ; mix with these ingredients two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt. Carefully separate the leaves of two heads 
 of lettuce, wash them in plenty of cold water, and dry them 
 by shaking them in a towel. Arrange the lettuce and 
 chopped salad in a salad-bowl in layers, pour over it half a 
 cupful of salad-oil and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 serve it. 
 
 ONION AND TOMATO SALAD. 
 
 * 
 
 Choose half a dozen firm, ripe tomatoes of medium size, 
 wipe them with a wet towel, and slice them about a quarter 
 of an inch thick ; peel a medium-size Valencia or Spanish 
 onion, and slice it very thin ; arrange the sliced onion and 
 tomatoes in layers in a salad-bowl, and pour over them a 
 plain salad-dressing, made by mixing together half a cupful 
 
38o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of salad-oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper; use 
 the salad as soon as it is made. 
 
 Young green onions may be used in this salad. 
 
 VEGETABLE SCOOPS. 
 
 The first picture shows several forms of vegetable scoops, 
 made of steel, and set in stout wooden handles. They are 
 used for cutting vegetables for soups, garnishes, and salads. 
 After- the vegetable is peeled, the uiside of the scoog is laid 
 against the rounded surface, the thumb of the left - hand 
 presses the bowl of the scoop firmly into the vegetable, 
 while with the right hand the scoop is held tightly and 
 forced into the vegetable, first with a rocking and then 
 with a circular motion. A little practice will soon enable 
 one, with a strong hand, to cut the vegetables as shown on 
 the upper line of the second picture, in the first four figures. 
 The figures marked 5 and 6 are cut with a sharp vegetable 
 knife ; and 7 and 8, with the cylindrical vegetable cutters, 
 a picture of which is given elsewhere. 
 
 TOMATOES WITH MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Raw tomatoes, peeled and sliced, are delicious with may- 
 onnaise, which is made by slowly mixing three parts of oil 
 and one of vinegar with the yolk of a raw egg, and a palata- 
 ble seasoning of salt and pepper ; the addition of mustard to 
 mayonnaise is a question of taste. The egg and seasonings 
 are put in the bottom of a bowl, with a very little vinegar, 
 and mixed to a smooth cream ; the oil and vinegar are then 
 added alternately, a few drops at a time, until the desired 
 quantity of mayo,nnaise is made ; the stirring must be gentie 
 and constant, and, after the mayonnaise i^ made, it must he 
 kept in a cool place until it is used. 
 
I . ' 
 
 Vegetable Scoops. 
 
 h 
 p 
 
 s ■ 
 
 Vegetables cut with Scoops and Cylinders. 
 
 38' 
 
382 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 COLD SLAW. 
 
 Wash a firai head of white cabbage of medium size, in 
 plenty of cold water, and cut it in thin slices. Put in a 
 porcelain-lined saucepan over the fire, half a cupful each of 
 vinegar and water, two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper, and a level teaspoonful of salt, and let 
 them just begin to boil ; then draw the saucepan to the side 
 of the fire, where its contents will not boil ; stir in the yolks 
 of four raw eggs, and as soon as this sauce is stirred smooth 
 pour it over the cabbage ; serve the cold slaw with roast 
 meat or poultry. 
 
 HOT SLAW. 
 
 Carefully wash a head of firm cabbage, cut it in shreds, 
 and put It. over the fire in salted boiling water, to boil only 
 until tender, which will be in from five to twenty mmutes, 
 according to the age of the cabbage ; then drain it, and 
 serve it with a dressing made as follows : Melt together by 
 gentle heat two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of 
 rich cream, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and add them to 
 the boiled cabbage ; season it palatably with salt and pepper, 
 and serve it as soon as it is prepared, with any dish of fried 
 poultry or meat. 
 
 CHEESE SALAD. 
 
 Use any dry, rich cheese, such as Edam, Rochefort, or 
 Gorgonzola, about two heaping tablespoonfuls to a head of 
 lettuce of medium size ; carefully wash the lettuce, tear the 
 leaves apart, and lay them in a salad-dish ; break the cheese 
 in small bits, and scatter it among the lettuce ; pour over it 
 a plain salad-dressing, made as directed above, and serve 
 the salad at once. 
 
 SALADS OF COOKED VEGETABLES. 
 
 These salads are made of different vegetables, which have 
 been boiled and allowed to cool. When green vegetables 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 383 
 
 are to be used, such as asparagus, pease, and string-beans, 
 they should be boiled in salted boiling water, only until 
 tender, and then drained and put into cold water at once 
 to preserve their color. Before they are served as salads, 
 they should be drained on a dry cloth to free them from 
 moisture. Cold asparagus served with mayonnaise is deli- 
 cious. Boiled cauliflower with mayonnaise is good. Car- 
 rots, turnips, and beets boiled, cooled, and cut in fancy 
 shapes with vegetable scoops, may be served either with 
 mayonnaise or plain dressing. 
 
 POTATO SALAD. 
 
 Potato salad is composed of boiled potatoes, peeled and 
 sliced, one onion, peeled and sliced very thin, to six pota- 
 toes, and plenty of plain salad-dressing ; sometimes a little 
 chopped parsley is added. Variations of potato-salad are 
 made by the addition of green onions chopped fine, lettuce, 
 or small dice of fried salt pork. 
 
 AMERICAN POTATO SALAD. 
 
 Peel half a dozen cold boiled potatoes, and slice them, 
 not too thin ; boil two eggs hard ; wash, and chop rather 
 fine, one head of celery ; peel one onion, and chop it fine ; 
 break the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs smooth with the 
 yolk of one raw egg ; stir with them a gill of oil, two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, a level teaspoonful each of salt and 
 dry mustard, and a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix this dress- 
 ing with the potato, celery, and onion, and serve the salad. 
 
 BEET AND POTATO SALAD. 
 
 Use equal quantities of boiled new potatoes and new 
 beets ; peel them while they are still hot, cut them in. half- 
 inch dice, season them with salt and pepper, and dress them 
 with vinegar and plenty of good salad-oil ; or with a salad- 
 
384 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 dressing made according to the recipe given with the water- 
 cress salad. 
 
 SALAD OF FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 Pick over a pint of French haricot beans, — the large, 
 dark-red variety -^ put them over the fire in a quart of cold 
 water, and let them begin to boil; then add a cupful of 
 cold water, and let them boil again ; every fifteen minutes 
 add more cold water, and continue to boil the beans until they 
 are tender ; then drain them, and let them get quite cold. 
 To each pint of cold boiled beans, add two tablespoonfuls 
 of chopped parsley, and a plain salad-dressing composed 
 of six tablespoonfuls of oil, two of vinegar, a saltspoonful of 
 salt, with half a. saltspoonful" of pepper ; mix these ingre- 
 dients thoroughly, pour them over the beans, and serve the 
 salad. Cold string-beans make a good salad. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SALAD. 
 
 Use for this salad cold boiled artichokes ; slice them with- 
 out breaking them, arrange the slices neatly on a dish, and 
 pour over them a, plain salad-dressing made by mixing 
 together three tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar, a 
 saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
 per. 
 
 FRUIT SALADS. 
 
 The fruits which we are accustomed to associate with 
 breakfast or dessert may be used as salads : the only point 
 to be remembered is that they must be of a pronounced 
 flavor or acid. Orange salad, made of thinly sliced oranges, 
 freed from seeds, and dressed with salt, cayenne, lemon-juice, 
 and oil, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice to three of oil, is 
 a delicious accompaniment for broiled or roasted game or 
 poultry. Lemon salad is composed of sliced lemons, the 
 seeds being removed, and lettuce carefully washed and dried ; 
 the dressing is salt, cayenne, and oil. Apple salad is made 
 of very tart apples, sliced, and mixed with young green 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 385 
 
 onions chopped, and plain salad-dressing. In summer, 
 gooseberries or barberries, combined with young onions or 
 cucumljers, sliced, and served with plain dressing, are very 
 good with boiled salt mackerel. Currants mixed with well- 
 washed lettuce, and dressed with salt, pepper, and oil, are 
 refreshing and wholesome. 
 
 A delicious breakfast salad is muskmelon, made very cold, 
 cut in the natural divisions, freed from seeds, and served 
 with salt, pepper, oil, and lemon-juice, one tablespoonful of 
 lemon-juice to three of oil. Watermelon with mayonnaise 
 makes a good salad, as also does grape-fruit. 
 
 MAYONNAISE FOB SALAD. 
 
 Make a mayonnaise salad-dressing as follows : Put into a 
 bowl the yolk of one raw egg, one level teaspoonful of salt, 
 half a saltspoonful of white pepper, a dust of cayenne-pepper, 
 and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; quickly mix these ingredients 
 to a smooth cream, then stir into them salad-oil and vinegar, 
 first adding the oil, two or three drops at once, and mixing 
 it smoothly with the first-named ingredients until a thick 
 paste is formed ; then stir in a very little vinegar, using only 
 enough to make the mayonnaise about as thick as rich 
 cream ; then add more oil, a few drops at a time, until the 
 thick paste is again formed ; then a little vinegar, as before ; 
 proceed in this way, using oil and vinegar alternately, and 
 stirring the mayonnaise constantly, until three-quarters of a 
 pint of oil and one-quarter of a pint of vinegar have been 
 used. When done, the mayonnaise should be like very 
 thick cream ; if it should curdle or break during the mixing, 
 put it in the ice-box, or in a very cold place, for half an 
 hour, and then finish it ; if the weather is warm, place the 
 bowl containing it in a pan of cracked ice while it is being 
 mixed. After the mayonnaise is mixed, keep it in a cold 
 place until it is wanted for the table. 
 
386 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 SALMON SALAD. 
 
 For a salmon salad, mix together one part of cold boiled 
 or canned salmon and two parts of chopped celery which 
 has been thoroughly washed, and dried on a clean towel ; 
 season these ingredients palatably with salt and pepper, put 
 them into a salad-bowl, pour over them a very little salad- 
 oil and vinegar, using about three tablespoonfuls of oil and 
 one of vinegar to a quart of salad, and then put the mayon- 
 naise on the top of the salad, and serve it at once. The 
 salad may be garnished with cold hard-boiled eggs sliced 
 or quartered, pickled beets, olives and capers, or any of 
 these articles ; or it may be served without a garnish. 
 
 CHICKEN SALAD. 
 
 A good salad can be made from cold boiled or roasted 
 chicken, cut in small pieces ; for a pint of chicken allow a 
 large head of lettuce, thoroughly washed and torn in pieces, 
 and a cupful of mayonnaise. To make the mayonnaise, put 
 into an earthen bowl the yolk of a raw egg, a level teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper; 
 stir these ingredients until they are smoothly mixed, and 
 then gradually drop in a cupful of good salad-oil, adding it 
 slowly, and stirring the mayonnaise constantly until it grows 
 quite thick ; then use a few drops of vinegar to thin it a 
 little, and after that stir in more oil ; proceed in this way 
 until all the oil is used ; when ready to serve the salad, mix 
 the lettuce and chicken in a salad-bowl, season them lightly 
 with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, pour the mayonnaise over 
 the salad, and serve it at once. 
 
 Chicken salad is sometimes made with celery instead of 
 lettuce, and is usually garnished with hard-boiled eggs ; 
 cold boiled beets, capers, olives, and the small leaves of 
 lettuce or celery are also used to garnish chicken salad. 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 387 
 
 SWEETBREAD SALAD. 
 
 Blanch sweetbreads as directed in the proper recipe, and 
 continue to boil them for fifteen minutes ; then cool and 
 slice them. Wash for each pair of sweetbreads a head of 
 lettuce in plenty of cold salted water, and dry it on a clean 
 towel ; put the yolk of a raw egg in a bowl ; add to it a level 
 teaspoonful each of dry mustard and salt, quarter of a salt- 
 . spoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; mix these 
 ingredients to a smooth cream, then stir in, drop by drop, 
 enough oil to form a thick paste ; next add a little vinegar 
 to liquefy the paste ; then, alternately, more oil and vinegar 
 until there is enough dressing for the salad. Arrange the 
 lettuce on a salad-dish, put the sweetbreads on it, and pour 
 the dressing over them. Serve the salad as soon as it is 
 made. 
 
 OYSTER SALAD. 
 
 OystCTS, carefully freed from bits of shell, and scalded in 
 their liquor, may be used for salad as directed in the above 
 recipe. 
 
 SHAD-ROE SALAD. 
 
 Wash a shad-roe in cold water ; put it over the fire in 
 salted boiling water, and boil it for fifteen minutes, or until 
 the grains are hardened ; then drain it, pour a little vinegar 
 over it, and rub it until the grains are separated ; peel and 
 slice half a dozen raw tomatoes ; thoroughly wash and drain 
 a head of fresh lettuce ; put the lettuce in the bottom of a 
 salad-bowl, then the tomato and shad-roe in layers, and pour 
 over all six tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar or lemon- 
 juice, and serve the salad. Cold fried or broiled shad-roe 
 may be used in this dish. 
 
 SHRIMP SALAD. 
 
 Prepare a quart of shrimp as directed in the recipe for 
 shrimp sauce ; wash two heads of fresh lettuce ; shake the 
 
388 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 water from the leaves, and arrange them on a salad-bowl ; 
 put the shrimp in a little heap in the centre of the lettuce, 
 ;nd pour over them a mayonnaise, made without mustard, 
 as follows : Put the yolk of a raw egg in a bowl, stir it with 
 a fork, and mix oil with it, a few drops at a time, until quite 
 a thick paste is formed ; next slowly mix in enough vinegar 
 to thin it j then again add oil and vinegar, stirring the dress- 
 ing gently 4nd constantly, until the desired quantity of may- 
 onnaise is made, using one-third as much vinegar as oil;- 
 season it palatably with salt and pepper, and use it with the 
 salad. 
 
 Prawns make a delicious salad. 
 
 HOT LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 This salad must be served directly it is made. 
 
 Choose a medium-sized lobster, heavy for its size, and 
 quite alive ; plunge it head first into a large pot half full of 
 boiling water, and boil it for about twenty minutes, or until 
 the shell is quite red; cool the lobster until it can be 
 handled ; then take it from the shell, using a can-opener 
 to separate the shell ; save all the coral, green fat, and the 
 flesh of the lobster. Throw away the intestine, which runs 
 through the flesh of the tail ; the " lady," or membranous 
 sack, which lies back of the eyes ; the " dead men," or soft 
 fins, which lie under the small legs, close to the body and 
 the shell. Cut the flesh of the lobster in pieces about an 
 inch square. While the lobster is being prepared, boil two 
 eggs hard, remove the shells, and cut the eggs in quarters ; 
 carefully wash and dry two medium-sized heads of lettuce, 
 cut them in quarters, and keep them in a cold place ; put 
 into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls each of butter and 
 vinegar, a mustard-spoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful 
 of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, a dust of cay- 
 enne, and the lobster, and place the saucepan over the fire • 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 389 
 
 arrange the lettuce around the sides of a salad-bowl ; stir 
 the lobster until it is hot, pour into the salad-bowl, garnish 
 it with the hard-boiled eggs, and serve it at once. The suc- 
 cess of this salad depends upon the rapidity with which it 
 is made and served. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 Prepare the lobster as directed in the preceding recipe, 
 but do not heat it. Arrange it on a dish with the lettuce, 
 pour over it a mayonnaise, and garnish it with hard-boiled 
 eggs, and the coral and small claws ; capers, cold boiled 
 beets, olives, and the srnall lettuce-leaves may also be used 
 to garnish the salad. A recipe for mayonnaise has already 
 been given. 
 
 NEW POTATOES. 
 
 Wash and scrape a pint of small, even-sized new potatoes, 
 putting them into cold water as fast as they are scraped ; 
 when all are done, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
 water, and boil them only until they can be easily pierced 
 with a fork ; then drain off the water, put with them a table- 
 spoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
 saltspoonful of white pepper, and sufficient milk to entirely 
 cover them ; let them boil gently for five minutes, and then 
 serve them. 
 
 New potatoes boiled until tender, and then rolled in flour, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and browned in butter, either 
 in a frying-pan or in a hot oven, are very good. New pota- 
 toes carefully washed, and then baked in a dripping-pan, 
 either with just enough butter to favor browning, or" plain, 
 are excellent if they are served directly they are done ; they 
 grow watery by standing. 
 
 Broiled new potatoes are prepared either by slicing them 
 raw or after they have been pardy boiled, dipping them in 
 melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and then 
 
390 PRACTICAL AMERICAN- CaOKERY. 
 
 browning them over a hot fire, between the bars of a but 
 tared double wire gridiron. 
 
 Cold boiled new potatoes, chopped, and browned in but- 
 ter, with a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, are excel- 
 lent for breakfast or luncheon. 
 
 BERMUDA POTATOES. 
 
 The Bermuda potatoes, which are the first new potatoes 
 marketed, may be prepared according to any of the potato 
 recipes ; they are generally of a good size and flavor, and 
 mealy in texture ; they are excellent boiled plain, as an 
 accompaniment for fish. 
 
 BOILED POTATOES. 
 
 Choose small, smooth potatoes of even size ; wash them, 
 and then peel them, taking care to remove only a very thin 
 paring, and to keep them smooth, and laying each one in 
 cold water as it is peeled ; or^ remove part of the paring ; 
 place the potatoes over the fire in plenty of salted boiling 
 water, and boil them for ten minutes, or until they can be 
 easily pierced with a fork ; do not allow the potatoes to boil 
 until they begin to break, but drain them as soon as they 
 are tender ; after draining the potatoes, cover them with 
 a clean towel folded several times, and place the saucepan 
 containing them where they will keep hot without burning 
 until they are wanted for the table : the folded towel will 
 retain the heat, and at the same time permit the steam to 
 escape, so that the potatoes will be mealy and unbroken 
 when they are served. Potatoes may be boiled in their 
 jackets in the same way, a thin ring of paring being removed 
 after they are washed ; as is the case with the peeled pota- 
 toes, care must be taken to drain the potatoes as soon as 
 they are tender enough to be pierced with a fork, and they 
 must then be covered with a folded towel, and allowed to- 
 steam. 
 
SAZ,AJ?S ANI> VEGETABLES, 39 1 
 
 BAKED POTATOES, 
 
 Potatoes for baking should be of medium size, smooth, 
 and carefully washed; the oven should be hot, and the 
 potatoes watched after they have been baking for twenty 
 minutes ; as soon as they are soft enough to yield to press- 
 ure, they should be served at once, because, after they are 
 really done, they spoil very soon. 
 
 MASHED POTATOES. 
 
 Peel the desired quantity of potatoes, slice them half an 
 inch thick, put them into salted boiling water, and boil 
 them until tender ; then pour them into a colander, and set 
 it over a hot dish when all the water has drained away ; put 
 with a quart of potatoes, a tablespoonful of butter, the yolk 
 of a raw egg, and a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg, and rub them through the colander with a 
 potato- masher. Serve the potatoes the moment they are 
 mashed, or they will grow cold ; if they cannot be sent to 
 the table directly they are done, set them into a hot oven 
 and brown them. Be sure to serve them hot. 
 
 If the egg is omitted, the potatoes may be more highly 
 seasoned ; or a very little milk may replace it, but not enough 
 to make the potatoes too moist. 
 
 Cold mashed potatoes may be re-warmed by stirring them 
 over the fire with just enough milk to soften them, and a 
 palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; or, made into little 
 cakes or balls, and fried brown in hot fat; or, mixed with 
 finely minced meat, and warmed in a frying-pan, with a 
 palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 POTATO STRAWS. 
 
 Wash a pint of potatoes, peel them very thin, slice them 
 about a quarter of an ioch thitk ; put them into plenty of 
 
392 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 salted boiling water, and boil them until they are tender, 
 which will be in about ten minutes; when the potatoes 
 are tender, pour them into a colander with large holes, and 
 let the water drain off; when the potatoes are quite dry, 
 sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of 
 a saltspoonful of white pepper ; hold the colander over one 
 end of a large platter, and press upon the potatoes with a 
 potato-masher, moving the colander toward the other end 
 of the dish as the potatoes are pressed through it, so that 
 they will fall upon the dish in long rows ; continue to move 
 the colander from one end of the platter to the other, until 
 all the potatoes are pressed through and laid in even rows 
 upon the dish ; then wipe the edges of the dish with a clean 
 towel, set it in the oven for two or three minutes to heaV 
 the potatoes,' and then serve them. 
 
 BROWN HASHED POTATOES. 
 
 Chop a pint of cold boiled potatoes in quarter-inch dice, 
 after peeling them ; put four tablespoonfuls of drippings 
 into a frying-pan, and let them get smoking hot ; then put 
 in the hashed potatoes, season them with a level teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and stir 
 them over a hot fire until they are nicely browned ; then serve 
 them at once. 
 
 FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full of fat ; 
 peel half a dozen medium-sized smooth potatoes; when 
 the fat is smoking hot, slice the potatoes into it, and fry 
 them golden brown ; when they are brown, take them from 
 the fat with a skimmer, put them into a colander, dust them 
 with pepper and salt, shake them up, and serve them hot. 
 
 SARATOGA POTATOES. 
 
 Saratoga potatoes are peeled, and sliced very thin, and 
 soaked over night, or for several hours, in plenty of cold 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 393 
 
 water; sometimes a small bit of alum is dissolved in the 
 water to harden the potatoes ; before they are fried, they are 
 carefully drained or dried on a towel, and then fried in 
 plenty of smoking-hot fat, a few slices at a time, as directed 
 in the preceding recipe. They are served either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 JULIENNE POTATOES. 
 
 Peel potatoes of medium size, cut them in slices, cross- 
 wise, with a fluted vegetable knife, like the one shown in 
 the following illustration, and then proceed to cook them 
 like Saratoga potatoes. Serve them hot with beefsteak. 
 
 FLUTED VEGETABLE KNIFE. 
 
 The fluted knife shown in the first cut is used for peeling 
 vegetables and fruit, so that the outside seems covered with 
 circular grooves; small potatoes, button-mushrooms, and 
 sections of carrots, turnips, and other solid vegetables, are 
 cut with this knife for garnishes. The manner of holding the 
 knife to form the grooves is shown in the second cut. To 
 
 Fluted Vegetable Knife. 
 
 make grooved slices, the vegetable or fruit is first peeled with 
 the plain part of the knife, and then sliced with the grooved 
 
 Vegetable turned or cut with Fluted Knife, 
 
394 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 section. Potatoes cut in this way, and then fried like Sara- 
 toga potatoes, are cdXltA /ulienne potatoes. 
 
 SWEET POTATOES FRIED WITH PORK. 
 
 Wash a quart of sweet potatoes ; boil them tender in 
 salted boiling water, and peel and slice them about half an 
 inch thick ; meantime slice half a pound of fat salt pork, 
 and fry it brown ; then fry the potatoes light brown in the 
 drippings, and serve them on the same dish with the pork. 
 
 BOILED SWEET POTATOES. 
 
 Wash the potatoes, using those about of a size, so that 
 they may cook evenly ; put them over the fire, either in hot 
 or cold 'jalted water, and boil them for about twenty minutes, 
 or until they are tender : then drain and serve them. 
 
 If sweet potatoes are at all watery, they can be greatly 
 improved by putting them into a very hot oven for five min- 
 utes after they are boiled ; if they are peeled, put them in a 
 dripping-pan with a little butter, and brown them before 
 serving them. 
 
 STUFFED SWEET POTATOES. 
 
 Wash a dozen medium-size sweet potatoes, which should 
 be rather round in shape, and have smooth skins ; bake 
 them in a moderate oven until they begin to soften ; when, 
 the potatoes are ready, take them from the oven, cut a slice 
 from one side of each which will permit the introduction of 
 a teaspoon, and with the spoon scoop out the inside of the 
 potato, taking care not to break the skin. As the potato is 
 withdrawn from the skin, put it into a bowl.; and, when all 
 the skins are empty, season the potato rather highly with 
 salt and pepper, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 395 
 
 and replace it in the skins ; put on each potato, after it is 
 stuffed, the piece of skin first cut from it, and then return 
 the potatoes to the oven to heat thoroughly. When they 
 are hot, serve them in the skins. 
 
 The potatoes may be served when they are tender without 
 being stuffed. 
 
 SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Peel and wash a large sweet potato, wipe it dry on a 
 clean towel, and then grate it on a large grater ; while the 
 potato is being grated, heat a quart of milk ; stir a cupful 
 of the grated potato into the hqt milk, and let it boil ; 
 meantime beat four eggs to a cream ; add a heaping table- 
 spoonful of butter to the milk and potatoes, and take them 
 off the fire ; stir the beaten eggs with the milk and potatoes, 
 season the pudding palatably with salt and pepper, put it 
 into an earthen dish, and bake it for twenty minutes, or until 
 the custard is firm, in a moderate oven ; serve it hot as a 
 vegetable. The same pudding may be sweetened, and baked 
 to use for dessert. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 After washing a quart of artichokes thoroughly in cold 
 water, scrape off the skin, holding them under water to keep 
 them white, and putting them, as fast as they are scraped, 
 into a large bowl of cold water containing a tablespoonful 
 of salt and half a cupful of vinegar. When all the arti- 
 chokes are scraped, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
 water enough to cover them, and boil them gently until they 
 are tender, but not broken ; they will not be mealy like po- 
 tatoes, but of a dense, waxy texture, and they break easily ; 
 when the artichokes are tender, drain them from the water 
 in which they were boiled, and serve them in a cream sauce 
 made as follows : About ten mintites after the artichokes are 
 put over the fire to boil, heat a pint of milk in a milk-boiler. 
 
396 PRACTJCAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 or in a saucepan set in a pan of hot water ; meantime, mix 
 together by stirring them over the fire a tablespoonfiil each 
 of butter and flour, and, when they are smoothly blended, 
 gradually stir the milk into them ; season the sauce rather 
 highly with salt and white pepper ; let it boil for two minutes, 
 and then use it with the boiled artichokes. If the sauce is 
 made before the artichokes are done, keep it hot by placing 
 the saucepan containing it in a pan of boiling water. 
 
 Any other sauce suitable for vegetables may be served 
 with the artichokes ; when cold they make a good salad. 
 
 Cold boiled artichokes may be fried in butter, or scalloped 
 with bread-crumbs and sauce, and browned in the oven. 
 
 GLOBE ARTICHOKES. 
 
 The large green artichokes seen occasionally in market 
 and at fruit-stores are the globe artichokes, which were for- 
 merly as well-known and cultivated in this country as they 
 
 Fresh Globe Artichoke, 
 
 are now abroad. The accompanying cuts, copied from an 
 Ejiglish work, — Cassell's "Dictionary of Cookery," — repre- 
 sent the full head and the section : the line C runs into the 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 397 
 
 bottom, ox fond; the line B into the choke, which is removed 
 after the artichoke is blanched, by inserting a small spoon 
 
 y/?;^ 
 
 Section of Globe Artichoke. 
 
 between the leaves from the top of the head ; the line A 
 indicates the leaves themselves, the lower part of which is 
 eaten when they are tender and succulent. 
 
 GLOBE ARTICHOKES, BOILED. 
 
 The accompanying illustration shows a dish of globe arti- 
 chokes ready for the table. To prepare them, wash them in 
 plenty of cold salted water, and unless they are very fresh 
 let them remain in the water for some time ; boil them in 
 enough salted boiling water to cover them until the leaves are 
 tender where they join the fond, or until a leaf can be pulled 
 out easily ; then drain the artichokes, trim off the tops of 
 the leaves, as shown in the picture, partly cut the artichokes 
 through the centre, and remove the choke with a teaspoon ; 
 work quickly, lest the artichokes become cold, and if they 
 do, heat them in boiling water before serving them. Serve 
 the artichokes with white sauce, Dutch or HoUandaise sauce, 
 or with butter, salt, and pepper. These sauces are some- 
 times put at each cover in a little cup, and every one pulls 
 
398 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN' COOKERY. 
 
 the leaves of the artichoke, and dips them in the sauce be- 
 fore eating the succulent end : Xht/ond, or bottom, is also 
 
 Globe Artichokes, boiled. 
 
 eaten. An excellent sauce is- hot butter and lemon-juice, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper; a plain salad-dressing of 
 oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, is good with artichokes. 
 
 DUTCH OB HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Make a pint of white sauce, as directed in the proper 
 recipe ; while it is still hot, but not boiling, stir with it the 
 yolks of two raw eggs, three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and 
 one of vinegar or lemon-juice, and serve it at once. Some 
 cooks melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in the sauce in- 
 stead of using the salad-oil. 
 
 GREEN PEASE, BOILED. 
 
 Shell a peck of fresh green pease ; if the pods are not 
 clean, wash them before shelling, but do not wash the pease. 
 Put the pease into two quarts of boiling water, containing a 
 heaping tablespoonful of salt, and boil them, fast for about 
 ten minutes, or until they are tender — no longer ; then 
 drain them, season them palatably with salt, pepper, and 
 butter, and serve them at once. A small bunch of green 
 mint may be boiled with green pease which are to be served 
 with lamb. Parsley and young onions are boiled with green 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 399 
 
 pease when their flavor is desired. Sometimes a teaspoonful 
 of sugar is added to green pease in seasoning them. 
 
 SUGAR PEASE. 
 
 Wash the pods, string them Uke string-beans, cut them in 
 pieces about an inch long, and stew them gently with butter, 
 allowing two tablespoonfuls to each quart of pease, and a 
 palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and enough water 
 to prevent burning. They will cook tender in from twenty 
 to thirty minutes. Serve them in their sauce. 
 
 CANNED PEASE. 
 
 Open a can of green pease, drain theni, wash them in cold 
 water, drain them again ; put them in a saucepan with two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter 
 of a saltspoonful of pepper, and shake them over the fire 
 until they are hot ; then serve them at once. 
 
 The small French canned pease can be quickly heated in 
 the liquor in which they are preserved ; their flavor is much 
 finer than that of any American brand at present marketed. 
 Much discussion has resulted in an attempt on the part of 
 the health-boards of several cities to exclude French canned 
 pease from the American market, because, a small quantity 
 of copper enters into their preparation. It is but just to 
 say that during fifteen years these pease have been used 
 by the author, both in her household and school ; and in 
 no instance has any bad result ensued, nor has she ever 
 heard of an authentic instance where they have caused any 
 injury to consumers. 
 
 STRING-BEANS. 
 
 Wash a quart of very young, tender string-beans, cut them 
 diagonally in small strips, throw them into salted boiling 
 water, and boil them fast for ten minutes, or until they are 
 
400 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 tender ; then drain them, and throw them into cold water ; 
 melt over the fire two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
 squeeze the juice of a lemon ; when the beans are cold, drain 
 them, put them into the hot butter, and heat them quickly ; 
 season them palatably with salt and pepper, add the lemon- 
 juice, and serve them at once. Omit the lemon-juice if the 
 flavor is not desired. 
 
 CANNED STRING-BEANS. 
 
 Open a can of beans, drain, and wash them in cold water ; 
 if they are quite tender, simply wash them ; if they are not, 
 cook them until they are soft in salted boiling water, and 
 then drain them ; then add to them two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful 
 of pepper ; heat them, and serve them hot. 
 
 • STEWED BUTTER-BEANS. 
 
 Remove the strings from a quart of butter-beans, and cut 
 them in inch lengths ; put them over the fire with enough 
 boiling water to cover them ; add two tablespoonfuls of but- 
 ter, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and boil 
 the beans for about twenty minutes, or until they are tender ; 
 after the beans are placed on the fire, wash and chop fine a 
 handful of parsley-leaves, and four young onions, and add 
 them to the beans ; when the beans are tender, mix a table- 
 spoonful each of butter and flour together without heating 
 them, until they form a smooth paste ; then stir the paste 
 with the beans ; see that they are palatably seasoned, let 
 them boil for two or three minutes, and serve them hot. 
 
 The parsley and onion can be omitted if their flavor is 
 not desired. 
 
 LIMA BEANS. 
 
 Put a quart of shelled Lima beans over the fire, in suffi- 
 cient boiling water to cover them, with a tablespoonful of 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 40I 
 
 salt, and boil them for about twenty minutes, or until they 
 are tender ; then drain them \ add to them enough milk to 
 cover them, a tablespoonful of butter, and a palatable sea- 
 soning of salt and white pepper ; heat them quickly, and 
 serve them hot. 
 
 Lima beans may be simply boiled until tender in salted 
 boiling water, then drained, and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 and butter, and served at once. 
 
 Cold Lima beans can be fried in butter, with a palatable 
 seasoning of salt and pepper ; or mashed and made into 
 little cakes, with an egg and salt and pepper, and then 
 browned in butter. 
 
 STEWED KWNEY-BEANS. 
 
 Pick over and wash a pint of dried red kidney-beans, put 
 them over the fire in a quart of cold water, and heat them 
 gradually. When the beans begin to boil, pour half a cup- 
 ful of cold water over them to check the boiling. Every 
 fifteen minutes put in half a cupful of cold water, and cook 
 the beans gently until they are just tender. When the beans 
 are tender, drain them, add to them two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, half a level teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
 saltspoonful of pepper ; heat them, and serve them hot. 
 
 The beans may be soaked over night if there is time, and 
 if so prepared will cook in about an hour. 
 
 Aq excellent addition to stewed kidney-beans is a small 
 onion, peeled, chopped fine, and fried yellow in the butter 
 used for seasoning the beans. 
 
 DRIED WHITE BEANS. 
 
 Dried white beans are good cooked in the same way. 
 The cold beans are excellent if fried with salt, pepper, and 
 butter, either with or without chopped parsley or onion. 
 
402 PHA CTICAL AMERICAN- COOKERY. 
 
 GREEN CORN BOILED. 
 
 Choose short, thick ears of fresh green com ; remove all 
 the husk except the inner layer ; strip that down to remove 
 all the silk from the corn and to permit the cutting away of 
 any defective grains, and then replace it, and tie it at the 
 upper end of each ear of corn. Have ready a large pot half 
 full of actually boiling water ; put the corn into it, and boil it 
 steadily for about twenty minutes if the ears are large, or 
 fifteen if they are of medium size ; then take it from the 
 boiling water, remove the strings, and serve it hot at once. 
 If it seems desirable to strip off the inner husk before send- 
 ing it to the table, this must be done very quickly, and the 
 corn covered with a clean napkin to prevent the escape of 
 the heat. Serve with the corn plenty of sweet butter, 
 pepper, and salt. Sometimes the butter, pepper, and salt are 
 mixed by heating them together, and then served in a hot 
 gravy-bowl. 
 
 The fresher the corn is, the sweeter it is ; it seems to lose 
 its most delicate flavor after it has been gathered a few 
 hours. 
 
 HOW TO WARM COLD CORN. 
 
 Cold boiled corn cut from the ear, and mixed with an 
 equal ' quantity of cold potatoes chopped, can be fried with 
 salt, pepper, and butter ; or heated with cold stewed toma- 
 toes, and served on toast. 
 
 GREEN CORN ROASTED. 
 
 Husk a dozen ears of com, and remove the silk; rub 
 them with butter, season them with pepper and salt; lay 
 them in a dripping-pan, and prop it up as close as possible 
 to a clear hot fire ; occasionally turn the ears, and change 
 their position in the pan, so that all may cook evenly; 
 when they are browned, serve them hot at once. Or, pre- 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 403 
 
 pare the com as directed above, and then brown it in a 
 very hot oven. 
 
 GREEN CORN STEWED. 
 
 Remove the husks and silk from a dozen ears of fresh 
 green corn ; cut downward through the centre of each row 
 of grains, and then scrape them out of the skin with the 
 back of a knife ; when all are cut, put the corn into a sauce- 
 pan, just cover it with boiling water, and boil it for twenty- 
 minutes. Mix to a smooth paste a tablespoonful each of 
 butter and flour ; and when the corn has boiled for twenty 
 minutes, add the butter and flour to it, together with half a 
 pint of milk and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; 
 let it boil again for three minutes, and then serve it. 
 
 When cream is abundant, it may be used instead of the 
 thickened milk. 
 
 GREEN CORN PUDDING. 
 
 Grate six large ears of green corn ; mix with the grated 
 corn one heaping teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful each of pepper and grated nutmeg, six eggs, and 
 a pint and a half of milk ; put the pudding in a buttered 
 earthen dish, and bake it in a moderate oven for half an 
 hour. 
 
 GREEN CORN GRIDDLE CAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 Grate enough green corn to fill a pint measure ; add to it 
 one gill of milk, the yolks of two eggs not beaten, a level 
 teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
 flour enough to form a medium stiff" batter, about half a cup- 
 ful ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix them 
 lightly with the batter, and bake the griddle-cakes on a 
 griddle or a frying-pan, using just enough fat to prevent 
 burning. 
 
 The same batter may be dropped by the tablespoonful 
 into a kettle of smoking-hot fat, and fried golden brown ; 
 take the fritters thus made out of the fat with a skimmer, lay 
 
404 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 them on brown paper for a moment to free them from fatj 
 and then serve them hot. 
 
 SVCCOTASH. 
 
 Use a quart each of corn cut from the cob, and shelled 
 Lima beans ; put them over the fire in just enough boiling 
 water to cover them, with two teaspoonfuls of salt and half 
 a saltspoonful of pepper, and boil them from twenty to 
 thirty minutes, until the beans are tender; meantime rub 
 to a smooth paste two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of 
 flour, and when the beans are nearly done stir this paste 
 into the succotash, see that it is palatably seasoned, and 
 finish cooking it. 
 
 The flour may be omitted if a thick sauce is not desired. 
 Sometimes a piece of salt pork is boiled with the succotash, 
 and sent on a platter to the table when the succotash is 
 served. In place of the flour or salt pork, two eggs beaten 
 smoothly with a cupful of milk may be added to the succo- 
 tash just before serving it ; but it must not be allowed to boil 
 again, or the eggs may harden. 
 
 HOW TO CAN CORN. 
 
 Choose very full ears of tender corn ; remove the husk 
 and silk, cut the corn from the cob, and scrape the cob with 
 the back of the knife ; pack glass jars with the com, making 
 them quite full, pressing the corn down, and then close them 
 with the rubber and porcelain-lined covers ; put some laths 
 across the bottom of a large boiler, and fill it with the jars of 
 corn, laying a little straw or hay between the jars to keep 
 them from striking against each other when they begin to 
 boil ; pour in enough cold water to half cover the jars, put 
 the boiler over the fire, put a cloth over it, and fit on the 
 cover of the boiler, and boil the corn steadily for three 
 hours, taking care that there is water enough to furnish a 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 405 
 
 full volume of steam ; then take up the jars, and screw the 
 covers as tight as possible. When the jars are cold, again 
 screw the covers, and keep the corn in a cool, dark place. 
 
 DRIED CORN. 
 
 Cut the grains from ears of tender corn, spread them on 
 large sheets of paper in the sun, and dry them thoroughly ; 
 or put them on pans in a cool oven, and dry them. After 
 the corn is dried, keep it in a cool, dry place. When it is 
 wanted for the table, soak it over night in enough water or 
 milk to cover it, and the next day boil it tender in the same 
 water ; season it with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve it 
 hot. 
 
 CANNED CORN. STEWED. 
 
 Put the com into a saucepan together with the liquor in 
 which it is preserved, and cook it over a moderate fire until 
 it is tender; when the corn is tender, drain the liquor from 
 it, and mix with the liquor enough milk to make up a pint ; 
 mix together over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 flour until they bubble, then gradually stir into them the 
 milk and liquid from the corn, add the com also, and let it 
 boil once ; season it palatably with salt and pepper, and 
 serve it hot. 
 
 DRIED CORN HULLED WITH LYE. 
 
 Put a pint of clear wood-ashes in two quarts of cold water 
 over the fire, and boil them for fifteen minutes ; then l^t the 
 lye cool until the ashes settle at the bottom of the kettle, 
 when the clear Uquid is to be poured off and strained. Use 
 enough of the lye thus made, mixed with an equal quantity 
 of cold water, to cover the dried corn ; put the corn and 
 iye-water over the fire, and boil them until the hulls begin to 
 break off the corn ; then drain the com, throw it into cold 
 water, and rub it between the hands, through several waters, 
 
406 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 until the hulls are all removed ; it will then be ready to cook 
 as samp. 
 
 DRIED CORN BULLED WITH SALERATUS. 
 
 Cover two quarts of dried com with cold water, add a 
 tablespoonful of saleratus, and boil the corn until the hulls 
 crack and begin to curl up ; then wash the corn three or 
 four times in cold water, rubbing it between the hands to 
 free it from the husks or hulls ; after all the hulls are re- 
 moved, boil the corn in salted boiling water, or milk and 
 water, until it is tender ; then season it palatably with pepper 
 and butter, and serve it as a vegetable ; or use it with milk 
 or cream and sugar for breakfast or supper. 
 
 The cold boiled samp is excellent fried with butter or 
 heated in milk. 
 
 STEWED HOMINY. 
 
 Wash a cupful of hominy, put it over the fire in two 
 quarts of cold water, and slowly heat and boil it gently for 
 about four hours, or until it is quite soft ; then drain it, and 
 place it where the water will evaporate while a cream gravy 
 is being made as follows : Put over the fire two tablespoon- 
 fuls of butter, and partly melt them ; when the butter is 
 quite soft, gradually stir with it half a pint of cream or an 
 equal quantity of milk ; if the cream is used, add it to the 
 hominy as soon as it is hot ; if milk is used, take it off the 
 fire when it is hot, stir with it the yolks of two raw eggs, and 
 mix it with the hominy ; serve the hominy directly the milk 
 or cream is added to it, remembering that the eggs used 
 with the milk will curdle if the hominy is allowed to boil 
 after they are added to it. 
 
 SUCCOTASH FROM DRIED SAMP AND BEANS. 
 
 Use for this dish dried samp and dried Lima beans. Soak 
 the samp and beans over night in cold water, in separate 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 407 
 
 bowls. In the morning boil the samp as directed in the 
 recipe for stewed hominy ; put an equal quantity of the 
 beans over the fire in fresh cold water, in another saucepan, 
 and let them boil gently until they are tender, but not at all 
 broken ; then place a saucepan containing them where they 
 will keep hot, without boiling, until the samp is done. When 
 both samp and beans are tender, drain them nearly dry, put 
 them together over the fire, season them palatably with salt 
 and pepper, add a heaping teaspoonful of butter to each 
 quart of succotash, and heat it ; serve the succotash hot. 
 
 SUCCOTASH OF DRIED CORN AND BEANS 
 
 Pick over a pint each of dried sweet corn and small white 
 dried beans, and soak them over night in separate bowls of 
 water, putting the water upon the vegetables while it is warm ; 
 the next morning wash a pound of salt pork in cold water, 
 put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, with the 
 beans, and boil it slowly for an hour ; then add the corn, 
 and continue the boiling until both vegetables are tender ; 
 when the vegetables are tender, take out the pork to serve 
 with the succotash, and put it on a separate dish ; drain off 
 nearly all the water from the vegetables ; add a tablespoonful 
 each of butter and sugar, milk enough to cover them, and 
 a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper ; heat the succo- 
 tash, and then serve it with the pork. 
 
 OYSTER-PLANT WITH CREAM. 
 
 Scrape a bunch of tender oyster-plant, putting the roots, 
 as they are scraped, in cold water to which a little vinegar 
 has been added ; cut the oyster-plant in pieces, put it over 
 the fire in salted boiling water, and boil it for about twenty 
 minutes, or until it is tender; then drain ii; add a table- 
 spoonful of butter, cream enough to cover it, and a palatable 
 
408 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 seasoning of salt and white pepper. Serve it as soon as 'the 
 cream is hot. The cream may be omitted if desired. 
 
 After oyster-plant has been boiled, it can be mashed 
 through a colander, with a palatable reasoning of salt, pep- 
 per, and butter, and heated and served; or mashed and 
 made into little cakes, and browned in butter ; or scalloped, 
 with the addition of bread-crumbs and seasoning, and 
 browned in a hot oven. 
 
 SEA-KALE. 
 
 The stalk of sea-kale, when cooked, is somewhat like as- 
 paragus ; the growing plant has thick stalks and large leaves, 
 like pie-plant, which take on a purplish-green color when 
 exposed to sun and air. Like celery and pie-plant, sea-kale 
 must be blanched while growing, or the taste will be bitter ; 
 and it must be kept in a dark place after it is cut. The 
 kale grows in roots with stalks attached, like celery. To 
 prepare it for cooking, the roots and large leaves must be 
 trimmed off, the plants thoroughly washed in cold salted 
 water, and then tied up like asparagus. The young shoots 
 are the best, but the stalks or midribs of the leaves are good 
 if they are white and crisp. When the stalks are tied up, 
 put them into salted boiling water, and boil them until they 
 are tender, which will be in about twenty minutes, if the 
 kale is good ; then drain them, and dress them with salt, 
 pepper, butter, and a httle lemon-juice, and serve them hot,' 
 or serve the kale on toas \, like asparagus. Any sauce suit- 
 able for asparagus will be excellent for sea-kale. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 If fresh asparagus is used, wash it, and scrape the stalks, 
 and, as far as they are tender, cut them into inch pieces ; 
 boil them until tender in salted boiling water ; then drain 
 them, and throw them into cold water; if canned aspaia- 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 4O9 
 
 gus is used, simply drain it, and pour boiling water over it ; 
 about ten minutes before dinner-time, drain the asparagus 
 from the boiling water, put it into a saucepan with sufficient 
 sweet cream to cover it, season it palatably with salt and 
 white pepper, heat it, and serve it at once on delicate slices 
 of toast. Or, heat the asparagus with salt, pepper, and but- 
 ter, after it is boiled. 
 
 ASPARAGVS WITH DUTCH SAUCE. 
 
 After washing asparagus, scrape off the woody portion of 
 the stalks, or cut it off entirely, and tie the asparagus in 
 small bunches ; put it over the fire in salted boiling water, 
 and boil it until it is tender ; then drain it, and serve it on 
 a napkin, or on toast, sending a dish of white or Dutch 
 sauce, or melted butter, to the table with it. The toast 
 served under asparagus is designed to absorb the water from 
 it. To make Dutch or HoUandaise sauce, put over the fire 
 a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until 
 they bubble, then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water ; 
 when the sauce boils, season it palatably with salt and white 
 pepper, and draw the saucepan to the side of the fire where 
 the sauce cannot boil ; then stir in three tablespoonfuls of 
 oil, drop by drop, or two tablespoonfuls of butter, one table- 
 spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice, and finally the yolks of 
 two raw eggs ; serve the sauce as soon as the eggs are added, 
 because it will be apt to curdle if it stands until the eggs are 
 cooked. 
 
 Boiled asparagus, served either hot or cold, with mayon- 
 naise, is delicious. 
 
 SUGAR BEETS BOILED. 
 
 Carefully wash the beets, without closely trimming the 
 
 leaves or roots or breaking the skin ; put them over the fire 
 
 . in a large pot half full of boiling water, and boil them until 
 
410 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 they are tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an 
 hour if they are small, an hour if of medium size, and longer 
 if they are large ; all new beets will usually cook in about 
 two hours' time, even if quite large. 
 
 When the beets are done, rub off their skins with a wet 
 towel, slice them, dress them with salt, pepper, and butter, 
 and serve them at once. 
 
 Vinegar may be added to them at discretion ; and they 
 may be allowed to stand in it long enough to become satu- 
 j'ated with it, then being used hot or cold. 
 
 Red beets may be cooked in the same way. After beets 
 are boiled, they can be cut in dice, and heated in white sauce ; 
 or scalloped with white sauce and bread-crumbs, and browned 
 in the oven ; or covered with cold vinegar and pickled. 
 
 NEW TURNIPS. 
 
 Peel and slice a quart of new turnips ; boil them in salted 
 boiling water until they can be mashed ; then drain and 
 mash them, season them with salt, pepper, and plenty of 
 butter, and then stir them over the fire constantly until all 
 the water has evaporated, and serve them. 
 
 Instead of mashing the boiled turnips, they can be cut in 
 dice and heated in white sauce, or milk, or simply with salt, 
 pepper, and butter. Cold boiled turnips, mixed with an 
 equal quantity of cold potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 and butter, and fried, make a good vegetable for luncheon. 
 
 CARROTS. 
 
 Boil two large carrots until tender in salted boiling water, 
 after having washed and scraped them ; when they are just 
 tender, cut them in half-inch squares, or in fancy shapes with 
 a vegetable-scoop, several of which are shown in the engrav- 
 ings given elsewhere ; put over the fire in a saucepan one 
 tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 411 
 
 they bubble, then gradually stir with them a pint of boiling 
 milk, and let the sauce thus made boil once ; season it with 
 a level teaspopnful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoOnful of pep- 
 per, and a very little grated nutmeg ; heat the carrots in this 
 sauce, and serve them. 
 
 Boiled carrots can be heated with salt, pepper, and butter ; 
 or with some chopped parsley; or with white sauce con- 
 taining the yolk of a raw egg, care being taken not to boil 
 the egg. Cold boiled carrots are good if fried in butter. 
 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Many persons who like this excellent fungus are afraid to 
 eat it because accidents have occurred from its use ; but 
 care will guard against such danger, both with fresh and 
 canned mushrooms. 
 
 There is no danger to be apprehended in using the canned 
 mushrooms, if, when the can is opened, the mushrooms look 
 clean and perfect, of a light buff color, without any dark or 
 defective spots ; the liquid in the can should be clear, that 
 is, not thick, and slightly colored by the mushrooms. The 
 interior of the cans should be bright and clean, not dark or 
 rusted ; if there is the slightest appearance of discoloration 
 or verdigris on the inside of the can, or near any joint in 
 the tin in the can, the mushrooms contained in it might 
 prove injurious. So far as the mushrooms themselves are 
 concerned, it is almost an impossibility for a poisonous one 
 to be present in a can, because they are raised in so-called 
 mushroom caves or cellars, from seed or rather spawn, which 
 is prepared from exhausted mushroom beds ; under these 
 circumstances, it is almost impossible even for a poisonous 
 mushroom to spring in a bed ; but if it did, its color, size, 
 and general appearance would indicate its character, and it 
 would at once be destroyed. The growers of mushrooms 
 exercise a great care in the cultivation of the vegetable and 
 
412 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 in its preparation for the market. The few instances known 
 of poisoning from the use of canned mushrooms have been 
 traced to carelessness in their preparation; the cooking 
 having been done in unclean utensils, or in copper vessels 
 from which the tin lining is worn, or the cooked mushrooms 
 have been allowed to stand over night in a metal vessel. 
 
 The fresh mushrooms which are brought to city markets 
 are generally raised in mushroom beds, by professional 
 gardeners, who are perfectly conversant with all the charac- 
 teristics of the vegetable ; and so there is but little danger 
 possible in using them. The fresh mushrooms sold during 
 the summer and early fall in the markets are usually gath- 
 ered in the fields and pastures by persons who know the 
 varieties of fungi, and who discard all except the agartcus 
 campestris, or field mushroom. 
 
 The fungi grow in form of a pileus or cap, upon a short, 
 stout stem, covered with a thin epidermis, and generally 
 divided beneath into radiated gills, which are the seed- 
 bearing organs. Form and appearance safely indicate the 
 innocuous or harmful qualities of the mushrooms, but the 
 test of tasting may be applied if one need be exercised. If 
 a small part of the cap, eaten with a little salt, does not cause 
 a burning or stinging sensation in the throat or stomach, and 
 if the taste is pleasant and agreeable, the variety may be 
 used. If this test shows the presence of a poisonous matter, 
 by the burning sensation, the peril can be averted by a free 
 use of common salt, followed by emetics and castor-oil. It 
 should be remembered, that a perfectly good fungus, which 
 is in excellent eating order when gathered, may decay and 
 become unfit for food in a few hours ; and therefore all spe- 
 cies should be eaten or preserved when fresh. The most 
 familiar of all the edible fungi is the agaric. With the best- 
 known variety, the agartcus campestris (the true meadow 
 mushroom, or pink-gill), every lover of good dinners is ac- 
 
SALADS 4ND VEGEtIbLES. 41 3 
 
 quainted, as this is the champignon cultivated extensively in 
 Europe, and imported largely into this country in cans. It 
 is often met with in our own markets. Its color is white, its 
 gills pink when fresh, gradually turning brown after gathering. 
 Its cap, from three to six inches in diameter, is plump and 
 white, or cream-color, covered with a fine down ; and its flesh 
 is firm and white, with a pinkish tinge. The stem bears a well- 
 defined white ring, which disappears as the mushroom dries. 
 
 In bright, open, sunny pastures, the mushrooms disappear 
 after the sun is high, and searchers for them seek their evan- 
 escent treasures early in the day : in more shaded localities, 
 where there is much moisture, they sometimes grow until 
 nightfall. In the mushroom caves and in the gardeners' hot- 
 beds, where they are sheltered from the direct rays and heat 
 of the sun, they seem to last longer, and to attain a larger 
 growth ; but their flavor is less intense than that of the out- 
 door mushroom : there is almost as much difference in the 
 flavor of cultivated and field-grown mushrooms as there is 
 between the flavor of poultry and game-birds. However, 
 during an experiment made in raising mushrooms in the 
 cellar of a New- York house, specimens from two to six 
 inches diameter in the cap, firm in texture, and of full, high 
 flavor, were raised, some of them growing in the beds for two 
 or three days : it may be mentioned here, that from one spot 
 about the size of a man's hand, in the angle of the wall, a 
 group was gathered which weighed a pound and a half. 
 
 At first the mushroom appears as a tiny white knob, close 
 to the ground ; it quickly grows, the cap frequently being ex- 
 panded in the morning and the decay complete by night, out 
 of doors ; the little white knob expands until the under side 
 gradually opens, permitting the fringe-like gills to appear ; 
 as the cap breaks away from the stem, it leaves the rough 
 ring where it joined the stem, and. this gradually dries up. 
 The gills are of a delicate pink, a sort of salmon-color ; as 
 
414 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the mushroom grows, the color of the gills deepens gradually 
 through the shades of brown, and finally, when the mushroom 
 is a day old, becomes quite black, and, as gradually, the 
 substance of the mushroom loses its first crisp, fleshy con- 
 sistence, and becomes withered and fibrous ; under favorable 
 conditions of quick, dry, artificial heat, it slowly dries, ordi- 
 narily it decays. The flavor of the meadow mushroom is 
 
 H U 
 
 Meadow Mushroom with 
 Gills and Spores. 
 
 sweet and nutty, while that of poisonous varieties is sharp 
 and acrid. The poisonous mushrooms have not the charac- 
 teristic pink gills of the harmless sort. A favorite popular 
 test is to cook with the mushrooms a white onion peeled, or 
 a silver spoon, and, if either turns black, to avoid the mush- 
 rooms as poisonous. 
 
 The accompanying picture shows the meadow mushroom, 
 or pink-gill, in its stages of growth from the tiny seed or spore, 
 which is concealed among the gills, to the full-grown cap. 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 415 
 
 FRESH MUSHROOMS BROILED. 
 
 Wash the mushrooms in plenty of cold salted water, trim- 
 ming off all defective or bruised portions ; cut off the roots, 
 and if there are plenty of mushrooms, separate the stems 
 and caps, saving the latter to stew or fry ; lay the caps on a 
 dripping-pan or baking-sheet set on top of the stove, with 
 the gills uppermost; put a small piece of butter, a little 
 pspper and salt, in each cap, and let them stay over the fire 
 until the butter melts ; then serve them on toast. 
 
 FRESH MUSHROOMS BAKED. 
 
 Carefully cleanse the mushrooms as directed in the recipe 
 for broiled mushrooms ; cut as many slices of bread as there 
 are mushroom caps, trimming off the crusts, and havmg each 
 slice about two inches square ; lay them in a baking-pan ; 
 spread each slice of bread with butter, put on each one a 
 little pepper and salt ; on each slice of bread put one or 
 more mushroom caps, enough to cover the bread ; put the 
 pan in a hot oven for five minutes, then season the mush- 
 rooms with salt and pepper ; put a piece of butter as large 
 as a hazel-nut on the mushrooms contained on each slice 
 of bread ; return the pan to the oven, and finish baking 
 the mushrooms, which are to be served on the bread as soon 
 as they are tender. 
 
 Fresh mushrooms may be breaded and fried. 
 
 MUSHROOM STEMS STEWED. 
 
 Use the stems of the mushrooms when the caps have 
 been already cooked ; cut them in rather small pieces ; put 
 them .over the fire with a heaping tablespoonful of butter 
 to a pint of stems, together with a palatable seasoning of 
 salt and pepper, and stew them gently until they are tender ; 
 have ready delicate toast, and serve the mushrooms on it. 
 
4l6 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Or, mince them, and scallop them with an equal quantity 
 of bread-crumbs, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
 pepper, and brown them in a hot oven. 
 
 TO DRY FRESH MUSHROOMS. 
 
 After carefully cleansing the mushrooms by washing them 
 in plenty of cold salted water, and trimming off the defec- 
 tive portions, spread them on sheets of stout paper laid in 
 dripping-pans ; set the pans in the sun, or in a cool oven, 
 and gradually dry them until all the moisture is evaporated 
 from them. After the mushrooms are dried, thoroughly 
 pack them in a tin can with a tight cover, and keep them in 
 a cool, dry place. 
 
 MUSHROOM POWDER. 
 
 Wash three or four quarts of fresh mushrooms, carefully 
 trim away all defective parts, and put them into a saucepan 
 without water-, together with two large onions peeled, a level 
 teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, two 
 blades of mace, and two saltspoonfuls of pepper ; heat the 
 mushrooms, and slowly simmer them until they absorb all 
 the liquid they yield ; be very careful not to allow them to 
 burn ; and when they are stewed nearly dry, spread them on 
 pans, and put them in a moderate oven to dry ; when they 
 are quite dry, beat or grind them to a powder. Put up the 
 powder in tin cans or tightly corked bottles, so that all air 
 is excluded, and keep them in a cool, dry place. A tea- 
 spoonful of "mushroom powder flavors a pint of sauce ; the 
 flavor of mushrooms resembles that of meat. 
 
 CANNED MUSHROOMS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 After opening the can, carefully drain the liquor or essence 
 from the mushrooms, saving it to add to the sauce ; put in a 
 saucepan over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 flour, and stir them until they are smoothly blended, then 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 417 
 
 gradually stir in the mushroom essence or liquor from the 
 can, and then add sufficient cream to make a sauce of the 
 consistency of gravy ; put the mushrooms into this sauce, 
 season them palatably with salt and pepper, and when they 
 are hot, serve them as a vegetable. Toast may be served 
 under them if it is desirable to increase the size of the dish. 
 
 MORELS. 
 
 Morels are a variety of mushroom frequently found under 
 the trees upon old lawns, and in rather open woods. The 
 accompanying engraving shows the appearance of fresh 
 
 Morel and Spore. 
 
 morels ; when dried, they look very much like a piece ot 
 brown sponge ; the color of fresh morels is pale buff, and of 
 dried ones brown ; the height is from three to five inches ; 
 as no poisonous fungus resembles them, they may be eaten 
 
41 8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 with safety. After carefully washing the morels, and trim- 
 ming off the roots, cook them according to any of the 
 recipes given for cooking mushrooms. 
 
 STUFFED MORELS. 
 
 After cleansing the morels, cut them at the bottom far 
 enough to admit a forcemeat of cold chopped meat and 
 bread, highly seasoned, or of partly cooked sausage-meat; 
 close them with a sliver of wood or a small metal skewer ; 
 lay them on small slices of bread, and place them in a mod- 
 erate oven to bake for about ten minutes, or until tender; 
 serve them on the toast, very hot. 
 
 laUSHROOM BROWN SAUCE. 
 
 For a can. of mushrooms, put into a saucepan a heaping 
 tablespoonful each of butter and flour; stir them together 
 over the fire until they begin to brown, then gradually stir in 
 the liquor from the can, adding water if any is needed to 
 make the sauce of the proper consistency ; add the mush- 
 rooms, season the sauce palatably with salt, pepper, and very 
 little grated nutmeg ; when the mushrooms are hot, stir in a 
 wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, and serve the mushrooms 
 as a vegetable. 
 
 Toast may be served under them to increase the size of 
 the dish ; or the sauce and mushrooms may be poured on 
 a dish with broiled beefsteak or broiled chicken, or with a 
 baked or roasted tenderloin of beef. 
 
 FRIED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST. 
 
 Peel two cucumbers, and slice them lengthwise about an 
 eighth of an inch thick ; put over the fire in a large frying-pan 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, and when it browns put 
 in the cucumbers, and fry them brown ; while they are being 
 fried, make as many slices of toast as there are pieces of 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 419 
 
 cucumber, butter them, and keep them hot ; when the cu~ 
 cumbers are done, serve them on the toast, very hot. 
 
 CUCUMBERS STUFFED WITH MARROW. 
 
 Peel half a dozen large cucumbers, split them lengthwise, 
 and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon ; with the seeds 
 and their surrounding pulp, mix an equal quantity each of 
 bread-crumbs and chopped marrow, and a high seasoning 
 of salt and pepper ; stuff the cucumbers with this forcemeat, 
 laying the halves together, and securing them in place by 
 running small wooden skewers entirely through them ; put 
 the stuffed cucumbers into an earthen dish just large enough 
 to hold them, pour over them sufficient meat-gravy to cover 
 them, and bake them in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
 or until they are tender ; then remove the skewers, and serve 
 the cucumbers hot. 
 
 If there is no gravy on hand, make some as follows : — 
 Put one tablespoonful each of butter and flour in a sauce- 
 pan, and stir them over the fire until they are light brown ; 
 then gradually stir in a pint of- boiling water, season the gravy 
 palatably with salt and pepper, let it boil for a minute, and 
 then use it. 
 
 EGG-PLANT FRIED IN BUTTER. 
 
 Peel and slice the egg-plant, let it lie in salt for an hour, 
 and then roll the slices in dry flour seasoned with salt and 
 pepper ; put a large pan over the fire with enough butter to 
 cover the bottom to the depth of half an inch thick when 
 melted; when the butter is smoking hot, put in the egg- 
 plant, fry it brown on both sides, and serve it hot. 
 
 EGG-PLANT FRIED IN BATTER. 
 
 Peel, slice, and salt the egg-plant as directed in the recipe 
 for egg-plant fried in butter ; also have ready the frying-ket- 
 tle half full of hot fat ; mix together in a large bowl four 
 
420 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 tablespoonfuls of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, 
 the yolk of a raw egg, and a tablespoonful of salad-oil or 
 melted butter ; in another bowl beat the white of the egg 
 to a stiff froth ; when ready to fry the egg-plant, put the 
 white of the egg into the batter, dry the slices of egg-plant 
 on a clean cloth, dip them in the batter, and fry them brown 
 in the hot fat; when they are done, put them on brown 
 paper for a moment to free them from grease, and then 
 serve them hot. 
 
 SCALLOPED EGG-PLANT. 
 
 Peel an egg-plant of medium size, slice it quarter of an 
 inch thick, sprinkle each shce with salt, lay them in a deep 
 bowl, and let them stand in a cool place for an hour. Soak 
 a pint-bowl full of stale bread in cold water. Fry the egg- 
 plant in a large frying-pan containing smoking-hot fat half an 
 inch deep ; when one side is brown, turn the slices, and 
 brown the other side ; when each slice is brown, remove it 
 from the frying-pan with a skimmer, and lay it on a dish. 
 When all the egg-plant is fried, put four tomatoes, peeled 
 and sliced, into the same frying-pan, adding two tablespoon- 
 fuls of fat if there is not that quantity in the pan, and fry 
 them for five minutes ; then squeeze the bread in a colander 
 to remove any excess of water, add it to the tomatoes, sea- 
 son the mixture highly with salt and pepper, using also a 
 little cayenne-pepper, and stir it over the fire until it is 
 scalding hot. If fresh tomatoes are not at hand, tomato- 
 sauce or canned tomatoes can be used. When the bread 
 and tomatoes are scalding hot, put them into a baking-dish 
 in layers with the fried egg-plant, dust some bread-crumbs 
 or cracker-dust over the top, season them with salt and pep- 
 per, put over them in small pieces about a tablespoonful of 
 butter, and set the dish in a very hot oven until the crumbs 
 are brown ; then serve it hot. Cold fried egg-plant can be 
 used for this dish. 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 42 1 
 
 BAKED EGG-PLANT. 
 
 Cut a medium-sized egg-plant in halves, score it deeply on 
 both sides, and rub plenty of salt and pepper into the cuts ; 
 put it into a pan with a heaping tablespoonful of butter 
 spread over it, and bake it until it is tender ; serve it with 
 the gravy it yields poured over it. 
 
 Or, after cutting the egg-plant, scoop- out most of the in- 
 terior, mince it fine, add an equal quantity of bread-crumbs 
 to it, season it highly with salt, pepper, and butter, and put 
 the mixture again into the rind, heaping each half; set the 
 halves of the egg-plant in an earthen dish which can be 
 sent to the table, and bake it until it is tender, then serve 
 it hot. 
 
 BOILED CABBAGE. 
 
 Wash a medium-sized head of cabbage in plenty of salted 
 cold water, and trim away the woody part of the stalk ; have 
 ready over the fire a very large pot containing five or six 
 quarts of salted boiling water ; put the cabbage into this 
 boiling water, place the pot over the hottest part of the 
 fire, and bring its contents to the boiling-point as fast as 
 possible. 
 
 Leave the pot uncovered, and every two or three minutes 
 press the cabbage under the boiling water with a wooden 
 spoon. Do not let the cabbage stop boiling for one instant ; 
 boil it steadily and rapidly for ten minutes ; then try one of 
 the thickest stalks with a sharp knife; if it is tender, — just 
 tender, without being at all watery, — drain the cabbage at 
 once ; if it is not quite tender, let it boil a few minutes 
 longer, but only until it is tender, and then drain it ; serve 
 it hot at once, with a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, 
 and butter. Or have ready a pint of white sauce, for which 
 directions are given elsewhere ; pour it over the cabbage 
 after it is drained, and serve it hot at once. 
 
422 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 FRIED CABBAGE. 
 
 Chop cold boiled cabbage, press out all the moisture, add 
 half a cupful of cream to a quart-bowl full of cabbage,, and 
 season it with salt and pepper ; put two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter in a frying-pan over the fire, let it get smoking hot, 
 put in the cabbage, and brown it quickly on the under side ; 
 as soon as the cabbage is browned, turn it upside down on a 
 hot dish, and serve it. 
 
 BED CABBAGE, STEWED. * 
 
 Thoroughly wash a head of red cabbage, cut the leaves 
 apart, and trim off any hard, fibrous portion of the stalk ; 
 peel and slice one onion, put it over the fire in a saucepan 
 with a tablespoonful of butter, a cupful of cold gravy, half 
 a saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; next 
 put in the cabbage, pour four tablespoonfuls of vinegar over 
 it, cover the saucepan closely, and cook the cabbage gently 
 for an hour or longer, until it is tender, stirring it occasion- 
 ally. Serve it hot. 
 
 SAUERKRAUT. 
 
 Trim off the defective and tough outer leaves of white 
 cabbage, wash it thoroughly in cold salted watef, and shave 
 it rather fine on a cabbage-cutter, rejecting the tough stalks ; 
 to each peck of cabbage, allow a pint of fine salt ; wash the 
 outer green leaves of ^he cabbage in cold salted water, and 
 use them to line a wooden tub or firkin ; put the cabbage 
 into the firkin in layers with the salt, beating the layers of 
 cabbage with a potato-masher until all of it is tightly packed 
 down ; put a board over the cabbage with a heavy stone on 
 it, and let it stand for at least six weeks, when it will be 
 ready to use. 
 
 To prepare the sauerkraut for boiling, soak it in plenty of 
 cold water until it is only palatably salty ; put the sauerkraut 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 423 
 
 over the fire in boiling water, or in tlie same pot in which 
 bacon, pickled pork, or smoked sausage is boiling, and boil 
 it until it is tender ; to serve the sauerkraut, drain it, put it 
 on a dish, lay the meat on it, and serve them together. 
 When the sauerkraut is cooked without meat, it is simply 
 served as a vegetable. 
 
 Cold sauerkraut may be chopped and fried in butter, or 
 heated with a white sauce or gravy. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Trim off the leaves of a firm head of cauliflower, and 
 wash it thoroughly in plenty of cold water in which a hand- 
 ful of salt has been dissolved ; if any insects are visible 
 between the branches of the cauliflower, let it soak in the 
 salted water, with the flowerets down, for an hour ; the salt 
 will kill the insects, and they will fall down into the water. 
 About three-quarters of an hour before dinner-time, put two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
 a quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper into a perfectly 
 clean saucepan large enough to hold the cauliflower ; take 
 it from the water, and put it at once into the saucepan with- 
 out draining it ; cover it closely, set it over a gentle fire, and 
 let it simmer and steam until tender, which will be in about 
 half an hour. Then, without breaking it, take it up on a 
 hot dish ; let the butter and water in which it was cooked 
 boil very fast for a minute, and then pour it over the cauli- 
 flower, and serve it. If a thick sauce is liked, mix a tea- 
 spoonful of flour or com-s.tarch, dissolved in half a cupful 
 of cold water, with the butter and water, boil it for two 
 minutes, stirring it constantly, and then serve it with the 
 cauliflower. 
 
 CauUflower, after it is carefully washed, may be boiled 
 until tender, and then drained, and served with white sauce ; 
 or covered with sauce and bread-crumbs, and browned in a 
 
424 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COQKJSRY- 
 
 hot oven ; or, when the heads are small and defective, fiitbet 
 boiled and served in branches, instead of entire, or mashed 
 through a colander, and heated with salt, pepper, and 
 butter. 
 
 Cold boiled cauUfiower is very good friei p'laln in butter, 
 or breaded in branches and fried ; or ruashed and fried like 
 oyster-plant, with the addition of aw f,gg, and a palatable 
 seasonmg of salt and pepper. 
 
 SPINACa 
 
 Trim off the roots and tough stalks of half a peck of 
 spinach, wash it in plenty of coid salted water until it is 
 quite free from sand, put it over the fire in salted boiling 
 water enough to cover it, and boil it fast for three minutes 
 or longer, until it is just tender ; do not allow it to become 
 soft and watery; drain the spinach, throw it into a large 
 pan of cold water until it is cool, then chop it very fine, or 
 rub it through a colander with a potato-masher ; put it again 
 over the fire to heat, with a palatable seasoning of butter, 
 salt, and pepper ; ■ while the spinach is being heated, poach 
 half a dozen eggs soft, and when it is dished- lay them upon 
 it, and serve the dish hot. 
 
 The spinach may be served withdUt the eggs. Boiled 
 spinach is good dressed with white sauce or gravy, or fried 
 with butter, either with or without the addition of a very 
 httle grated onion. 
 
 BOILED TURNIP-TOPS. 
 
 Thoroughly wash a peck of turnip-tops, put them over 
 the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, and boil them fast 
 for ten minutes, or until they are just tender ; then drain 
 them, season them with salt, pepper, and butter, ajid serve 
 them hot. 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 42^5 
 
 BOILED CELERY. 
 
 Carefully wash half a dozen heads of celery without break- 
 ing them apart, trim off the roots and green stalks, as shown 
 
 Celery Trimmed for Boiling, 
 
 in the annexed cut ; boil the celery in salted boiling water 
 until it is just tender, but not until it begins to break, and 
 then drain it, and serve it with any sauce preferred. 
 
 Boiled Celery. 
 
 The celery is dished on toast, like asparagus, or served 
 with the sauce poured over it, as shown in the accompanying 
 picture. 
 
 BUTTER AND LEMON SAUCE. 
 
 Butter and lemon sauce, made as follows, is good with 
 boiled celery : Melt four tablespoonfuls of butter by very 
 
426 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 gentle heat ; squeeze the juice of two lemons, and take away 
 the seeds; break two eggs, separating the yolks from the 
 whites. When the butter is melted, add it gradually to the 
 egg-yolks, and stir them together over the fire until they 
 begin to thicken; take the sauce from the fire directly it 
 begins to thicken, and stir in the lemon-juice, together with 
 a level saltspoonful of salt and a dust of cayenne-pepper ; 
 serve the sauce as soon as it is made. 
 
 CELERY WITH REMOULADE SAUCE. 
 
 The white stalks of celery are to, be carefully trimmed, 
 washed in cold salted water, cut in inch lengths, and served 
 with a remoulade sauce. 
 
 GERMAN REMOULADE SAUCE. 
 
 To make remoulade sauce, peel and grate a medium-sized 
 white onion ; rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through 
 a sieve with a potato-masher, add to them a level teaspoon- 
 ful of dry mustard, a level tablespoonful of sugar, two table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, the grated onion, four tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar, and a palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne. 
 Mix all these ingredients smoothly, and use them with \he 
 celery. 
 
 GREEN REMOULADE SAUCE. 
 
 Use any or all the following green herbs if they can 
 be obtained : tarragon, chervil, or curled parsley, parsley, 
 burnet, chives, or young green onions, a handful of each ; 
 after washing them in cold water, put them in salted boiling 
 water, and boil them for two minutes, then drain them, put 
 them into cold water for a moment, again drain them, and 
 rub them through a sieve with a potato-masher ; mix them 
 with the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a 
 sieve, a tablespoonful of vinegar, three of salad-oil, and a 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 427 
 
 palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; after the sauce is 
 made, keep it very cold until it is served. 
 
 CELERY FRITTERS. 
 
 Cut half a dozen white stalks of celery about two inches 
 long ; boil them until tender in boiling water and salt, dip 
 them in the following batter, and then fry them a golden 
 brown in smoking-hot fat. To make the batter, mix together 
 smoothly the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of salad-oil, a 
 little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of flour, 
 and enough cold water to make a batter stiff enough to hold 
 the drops from a spoon; just before using the batter, stir 
 into it the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. Fry the 
 fritters just before they are required for use, laying them on 
 brown paper for a moment after taking them from the hot 
 fat, in order to free them from the grease, and sprinkling 
 them lightly with salt. 
 
 FRIED PARSLEY. 
 
 Choose full stalks of parsley, carefully remove all imper- 
 fect or decayed leaves, wash it well in plenty of salted cold 
 water, and spread it on a clean towel to dry. When it is 
 quite free from water, gather the stalks in the right hand, and 
 quickly dip the leaves into smoking-hot fat fqr a moment to 
 crisp, them. If the parsley is put into the fat with any 
 moisture on it, a cloud of steam will arise, and there will be 
 great danger of burning the hand seriously ; but if it is care- 
 fully dried the operation can be performed with perfect 
 safety. 
 
 Fried parsley is used as a garnish for fritters, croquettes, or 
 any fried dish. 
 
 OKRA. 
 
 Cut the stems from a quart of young okra, wash the pods 
 in cold water, put them over the fire in enough -salted boil- 
 
428 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ing water to cover them, and boil them for twenty minutes, 
 or longer, until tender ; then drain them, add to them two 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, a high seasoning of salt 
 and pepper, and heat them thoroughly; after the okra is 
 hot, serve as a vegetable. 
 
 Tomatoes and corn, or Lima beans, are frequently stewed 
 with okra ; the seasoning being salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 Fried or broiled ham is often served with okra, as is also 
 fried chicken. 
 
 GBEEN PEPPERS, STUFFED AND BAKED. 
 
 Wash half a dozen large green peppers, put them into 
 boiling water, and boil them for five minutes; then take 
 them from the water, and rub off the skins with a wet cloth ; 
 cut off the stem ends, remove the seeds with a small spoon, 
 and stuff the peppers with any kind of cold meat minced 
 fine, mixed with an equal quantity of stale bread softened 
 with cold water, and seasoned with salt ; replace the stems, 
 set the peppers in a deep earthen plate or dish, pour in as 
 much cold gravy as the dish will hold, and bake the peppers 
 in a moderate oven for half an hour. They may be stuffed 
 with sausage-meat and bread. Serve them in the dish in 
 which they were baked. 
 
 Cheese is grated and mixed with bread-crumbs for stuff- 
 ing peppers ; and they are subsequently fried instead of 
 being baked. 
 
 STUFFED TOMATOES. 
 
 Fry a quarter of a pound of sausages or sausage-meat ; 
 wash a dozen ripe, firm tomatoes of medium size ; cut a 
 small slice from the stem end of each one, and scoop out 
 the interior with a teaspoon ; chop this part of the tomatoes 
 fine, mix it thoroughly with the fried sausage, season the 
 force-meat thus made highly with salt and pepper, and then 
 use it to stuff the tomatoes ; set the stuffed tomatoes in a 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 429 
 
 dripping-pan just large enough to hold them, dust cracker 
 or bread crumbs over the tops, put a very small bit of but- 
 ter on each one, and then bake them for half an hour in a 
 hot oven; remove them from the dripping-pan to a hot 
 platter, without breaking them, and serve them hot, with 
 a gravy made as follows: After dishing the tomatoes, set 
 the dripping-pan in which they were baked over the fire, 
 stir into it a tablespoonful of dry flour, and let it brown ; 
 then stir in a pint of boiling water ; season the gravy highly 
 with salt and pepper, let it boil for a minute, and then serve 
 it with the stuffed tomatoes. 
 
 FRIED TOMATOES WITH BROWN GRAVY. 
 
 Choose very firm, ripe tomatoes ; wipe them with a wet 
 cloth, slice them half an inch thick, and cover them with 
 flour seasoned with salt and pepper; put a dripping-pan 
 over the fire with enough lard to be half an inch deep when 
 melted, and let it get smoking hot ; when the fat is hot, 
 put into it as many tomatoes as will lie flat in the pan, and 
 quickly brown them on both sides, turning them carefully 
 without breaking them ; when they are done, transfer them 
 to a hot dish, and fry more in the same way ; when all the 
 tomatoes are fried, pour out of the pan all the lard, saving 
 it for frying tomatoes again, and put in a tablespoonful each 
 of flour and butter ; stir them over the fire until they are 
 brown, then gradually stir in a pint of boiling water ; season 
 the gravy thus made rather highly with salt and pepper, and 
 let it boil for two minutes ; then pour it on a deep platter, 
 lay the fried tomatoes on it without breaking them, and 
 serve them hot. 
 
 BROILED TOMATOES. 
 
 Choose large, firm tomatoes, wash them in cold water, 
 and wipe them dry ; have ready a double wire gridiron well 
 buttered, a plate containing four tablespoonfuls of flour sea- 
 
430 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 soned highly with salt and pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter melted by a gentle heat ; see that the fire is very hot 
 and clear; cut the tomatoes half an inch thick, dip the 
 slices first in the melted butter and then in the flour, lay 
 them between the bars of the buttered gridiron, and brown 
 them quickly on both sides ; serve the broiled tomatoes on 
 a hot dish, as soon as they are done, putting a small bit of 
 butter on each slice. 
 
 STEWED TOMATOES. 
 
 Use either canned tomatoes, or fresh ones scalded and. 
 peeled ; put them over the fire with a heaping tablespoon- 
 ful of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a palatable season- 
 ing of salt and pepper, to each quart, and stew them gently 
 for half an hour ; if they are wanted thick, use a few bread 
 or cracker crumbs to produce the proper consistency ; if 
 milk or cream is added to them, add also a saltspoonful of 
 baking-soda to modify the acidity of the tomatoes and pre- 
 vent the curdling of the milk. 
 
 CANNED TOMATOES. 
 
 Choose perfectly ripe, sound tomatoes ; three bushels will 
 fill about four dozen glass jars ; those with the porcelain- 
 lined tops, with rubber bands for excluding the air, are the 
 best for family use, and the capacity of the jars should be 
 about a quart ; the tomatoes should first be put in boiling 
 water for about two minutes, or long enough to remove the 
 skins, and then skimmed out of the hot water and drained ; 
 as fast as the tomatoes are peeled, they should be cut in 
 halves, and laid in a hair sieve to drain, and when the sieve 
 is full they should be slightly pressed to force out the 
 juice, and then transferred to an earthen bowl ; when all 
 the tomatoes are peeled and drained, put them over the fire 
 in a porcelain-lined kettle, or a new tin boiler, and stir them 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 43 1 
 
 until they boil thoroughly; then commence to put them 
 into the glass jars as follows, but keep them boiling until the 
 cans are all filled : have the jars close by the stove, on a 
 table covered with a wet cloth ; have a pan by the side of 
 the boiler, with a little hot water in it ; have on the table 
 another pan containing hot water ; first roll a jar in the pan 
 of hot water on the table, then set it in the pan of hot water 
 on the stove, and fill it to overflowing with the boiling toma- 
 toes ; at once put on the rubber, and screw down the cover ; 
 then place the jar on the table, and fill and cover another 
 until all are closed, taking care to keep the tomatoes boiling 
 all the time, until all the jars are filled. When the jars are 
 cold, the covers should again be screwed tight. The toma- 
 toes will keep best in a cool, dark place ; and it is well to 
 wrap each jar in paper to exclude the light. 
 
 Tomatoes may be canned in the jars by following the 
 directions given for so canning fruit. 
 
 PARSNEPS WITS CREAM. 
 
 Scrape three large parsneps, slice them half an inch thick 
 and two inches long, and boil them in salted boiling water 
 until they are tender ; then drain off the water, add to the 
 parsneps two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a cupful of 
 cream, season them palatably with white pepper and salt, let 
 them boil once, and then serve them. 
 
 • SALT PORK AND PARSNEPS. 
 
 Salt pork and parsneps are stewed together for half an 
 hour ; the water then drained off, and the pork' and parsneps 
 sliced and browned together, with a palatable seasoning of 
 salt and pepper. This is an old New-England dish. 
 
 BROILED PARSNEPS. 
 
 Boil the parsneps as directed in the preceding recipe, 
 drain them, dry them on a clean towel, split them in slices 
 
432 PRACTICAl^ AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 half an inch thick, dip them in melted butter seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, and put them between the bars of a double 
 wire gridiron ; broil them brown over a hot fire, and serve 
 them hot. 
 
 BERMUDA ONIONS BOILED. 
 
 Carefully peel the onions without breaking them apart, 
 and boil them, only until tender, in salted boiling water; 
 drain them as soon as they are done, pour over them suffi- 
 cient hot drawn butter or Dutch sauce to nearly cover them, 
 and serve them at once. 
 
 Bermuda onions are good fried or scalloped.' 
 
 BOILED ONIONS. 
 
 The best native onions for boiling are the white ones, but 
 the red variety may be cooked in the same way ; peel the 
 onions without trimming off the roots and tops closely enough 
 to cause them to break apart, put them over the fire in plenty 
 of salted boiling water for ten minutes ; then pour off the 
 water, replace it with milk, season the onions palatably with 
 salt, pepper, and butter, and stew them gently until they 
 are tender ; then serve them hot. 
 
 SPANISH ONIONS FRIED. 
 
 Peel and slice two pounds of Spanish onions, put them 
 into a frying-pan containing two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
 butter made smoking hot over the fire, season them with a 
 teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, 
 dust them very lightly with a little cayenne-pepper, and 
 stir them over the fire until they are tender; as soon as 
 they are tender, serve them on toast, pouring over them the 
 gravy they yield in cooking. 
 
 SCALLOPED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel two pounds of Spanish onions, or any large white 
 variety ; put them over the fire in sufficient boiling water to 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 43.3 
 
 cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil them until 
 tender. Meantime grate an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, 
 and just moisten' them with cold milk. When the onions 
 are tender, pull them apart with two forks, and put them into 
 a buttered earthen baking-dish in layers with the moistened 
 bread-crumbs ; season each layer Ughtly with salt and pep- 
 per; let the top layer be of bread-crumbs; put a table- 
 spoonful of butter over it in small pieces, and place the dish 
 in a hot oven until the bread-crumbs are brown ; then serve 
 it hot at once. 
 
 BOILED LEEKS. 
 
 Use young green leeks or the new green onions which are 
 marketed in the spring ; carefully wash them in salted cold 
 v;ater, trim away the roots and the broken or wilted tops, 
 tie them again in small bunches^ and put them over the fire 
 in salted boiling water ; boil small onions ten minutes, leeks 
 twenty minutes, and then drain them. Have ready a slice 
 cf dry toast for each bunch, and a tablespoonful of butter 
 melted with a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper ; lay the leeks on the toast, pour the 
 melted butter over them, and serve them hot. 
 
 BOILED SQUASH. 
 
 Peel a large squash or two small ones, cut them in pieces 
 about an inch square, put them over the fire in salted boiling 
 water, and boil them until they are tender; meantime, for 
 three pints of squash mix together over the fire a table- 
 spoonful each of butter and flour, and stir them until they 
 are brown ; then gradually add a pint of boiling water and a 
 high seasoning of salt and pepper ; when this sauce boils, set 
 it aside until the squash is done ; after the squash is drained 
 from the water in which it was boiled, put it into the hot 
 brown sauce, and serve it at once. Or, simply mash the 
 boiled squash through a colander, heat it with salt, pepper, 
 and butter, and serve it. 
 
434 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BAKED TELLOW SQUASH. 
 
 If the vegetable is very young and immature, it may bp 
 washed and cooked without peeling or removing the seeds. 
 But if it is ripe, both seeds and peeling must be taken away, 
 and. the squash cut in half-inch slices ; put it into a baking- 
 dish, place it in a moderate oven, and bake it until it is ten- 
 der enough to be easily broken with a fork ; the length of 
 time required will depend upon the maturity of the vege- 
 table ; a large, ripe squash will bake in about an hour. 
 When the squash is tender, put with it two heaping table- 
 spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
 teaspoonful of pepper ; mix the seasoning entirely through 
 the squash, return it to the oven to heat, and then serve it 
 very hot. 
 
 Squash may be fried like jsgg-plant. 
 
 SUMMER SQUASH. 
 
 Peel a squash, cut it in small pieces, and boil it in salted 
 boiling water until it is tender ; then drain it, put it into a 
 clean towel, and wring out all the water ; put it again into 
 a saucepan over the fire with two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
 butter and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, stir it 
 over the fire until it is hot, and then serve it. 
 
 SUMMER SQUASH STEWED. 
 
 If the skin of the squash is tough, peel it ; otherwise slice 
 the vegetable, after first washing it in cold water ; put it over 
 the fire in just boiling water enough to cover it, and boil it 
 for about twenty minutes, or until it is tender enough to 
 mash through a colander. After the squash is drained and 
 mashed, to each pint of it add a gill of cream and the 
 beaten yolk of one raw egg ; season it palatably with salt and 
 pepper; stir it over the fire just long enough to heat it 
 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES. 435 
 
 thoroughly, and then serve it hot. Or, after the squash is 
 tender, add plenty of butter to it, with a palatable seasoning 
 of salt and pepper, and stir it over the fire until the moisture 
 is nearly all evaporated, and then serve it hot. Or, scallop 
 the squash with the addition of bread-crumbs and salt, pep- 
 per, and butter, and brown it in the oven. 
 
 MACARONI AND SPAGBETTI. 
 
 Good Italian macaroni, both large and small, can now 
 be bought in nearly all American cities. It should never be 
 washed before boiling; if it is dusty, wipe it with a dry 
 cloth ; put it over the fire in plenty of salted boiling water, 
 and boil it fast for ten minutes, or until it is just tender ; 
 then drain it, and throw it into cold water ; this washing will 
 remove the excess of farinaceous matter that makes it sticky ; 
 after cooling in the cold water, it can be heated in any sauce 
 preferred, and the kind of sauce used will give the name to 
 the dish ; tomato, mushroom, and white sauces are usually 
 employed. The addition of a little chopped cold ham, 
 tongue, or chicken, to macaroni makes a delicious dish ; fried 
 onions are very good with macaroni, making the favorite 
 Italian farmer's dish. The addition of white and tomato 
 sauce and some chopped mushrooms and meat or poultry 
 makes Milanaise macaroni. 
 
 Boiled macaroni put into a dish with layers of grated 
 cheese, and moistened with white sauce, or with a little milk 
 and butter, makes a good baked dish ; a few bread-crumbs 
 may be put over the top if they are desired. 
 
 Macaroni or spaghetti dressed with a little mushroom- 
 sauce makes a delicious garnish for a baked or roasted fiki 
 of beef, or for a thick broiled beefsteak. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SECOND-COURSE SWEETS (Entremts). 
 
 THE sweets called entremets upon bills of fare arranged 
 according to European style include those served in 
 this country as dessert, such as puddings, cakes, pies, and 
 tarts, and sometimes moulded jellies ; the few jellies of this 
 kind for which there is space are given in the next chapter 
 with the frozen puddings. The breads, both large and small, 
 including those suitable for. breakfast and luncheon, are 
 given in this chapter, as are the fritters and griddle-cakes, 
 and a fair variety of pudding-sauces. 
 
 There is not room enough to give recipes for many cakes : 
 this need not be a matter of regret, for usually American 
 cookery-books are chiefly made up of them ; the few that 
 are given are good, and the reader is referred to the author's 
 other works for a greater variety. 
 
 ST. HONORE CAKE. 
 
 A St. Honor^ cake is a combination of candied fruit, pas- 
 try, and cream custard. To make the pastry, put over the 
 fire in a thick saucepan one pint of water, a quarter of a 
 pMDund of butter, and half an ounce of sugar ; when the 
 water boils, throw in half a pound of flour, and beat the 
 paste until it cleaves away from the sides of the saucepan ; 
 take the saucepan off the fire, let the paste cool for five 
 minutes, and beat in eight eggs, two at a time, thoroughly 
 mixing them before adding more ; the paste should be soft 
 436 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 437 
 
 enough to drop easily from the mixing-spoon, but not soft 
 enough to spread when dropped ; drop part of the paste 
 upon a buttered and floured pan in pieces as large as a 
 hickory-nut ; form a ring of more of it, as large as the cake 
 is desired, and about an inch broad and high ; put more of 
 it in a thin round the size of the cake, to use as a bottom 
 when it is not intended to take the trouble to make a bottom 
 round of what is called pa-te d' office ; some cooks make the 
 bottom of a thin round of cake, but this is not advisable, for 
 if the St. Honore custard stands in the cake it saturates and 
 softens it. Bake the little balls and ring in a moderate oven ; 
 when they are cool, cut a small place in each, and fill them 
 with cold St. Honors custard. 
 
 ST. HONOR^ CUSTARD. 
 
 After the St. Honore cakes are put into the oven, make 
 the custard as follows : For a cake of medium size, put in a 
 thick saucepan over the fire the yolks of six raw eggs, an 
 ounce and a half of potato or rice flour, and half a pint of 
 milk, and stir them constantly until the mixture is quite 
 smooth, and begins to thicken ; then take it off the fire, 
 stir with an egg-whip for a minute ; mix half a pound of 
 sifted powdered sugar with the whites of six eggs beaten to 
 1 stiff froth, and then whip this meringue with the custard, 
 return it to the fire, and beat it for a moment with the egg- 
 whip ; when it is quite smooth, pour it into an earthen dish, 
 and cool it ; it will be ready to use for the St. Honor^ cake 
 as soon as it is cold. After the custard is made, blanch 
 some almonds by pouring boiling water upon the kernels, 
 and then rubbing them on a wet towel to remove the skins ; 
 cut some white grapes in clusters of two and three, and 
 make ready some quarters of mandarin oranges, or French 
 candied fruits, and some cherries, and put each one on the 
 end of a long wire skewer. 
 
438 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 TO GLAC^ FRUIT. 
 
 Put a pound of loaf-sugar over the fire in a copper sugar- 
 boiler, with a gill of cold water, and boil it until the top is 
 covered with large bubbles ; then drop a little of it into cold 
 water ; if, when it is cold, it breaks with a snap, it is ready ; 
 the sides of the boiler must occasionally be wiped with a 
 wet cloth to free them from sugar, and the sugar closely 
 watched lest it boil beyond the point just indicated ; when 
 the sugar is ready, take the boiler from the fire, and gla^e 
 the nuts and fruit by dipping them into the sugar, and then 
 laying them on a dish slightly coate'd with salad-oil. 
 
 ST. HONORS CAKE, TO SHAPE. 
 
 When the pastry ring and puffs are filled with the cold 
 custard, and the fruit is covered with sugar, shape the St. 
 
 St. Honors Cake. 
 
 Honors cake as follows, making it look like the engraving 
 which accompanies this recipe. First lay a flat sheet of 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 439 
 
 pastry on a round flat dish ; on the sheet lay the ring of 
 pastry filled with custard, fixing it in place with some of the 
 melted sugar j then arrange the puffs filled with custard, and 
 the candied fruit, as shown in the cut, and finally heap the 
 cold custard in the centre. The cake should not be made 
 until shortly before it is required for use, because it deterio- 
 rates by standing, and, if the weather is damp, the candied fruit 
 soon becomes sticky. 
 
 RVM BUNS. 
 
 Rum buns, or Savarin cakes, are baked in little moulds, 
 which are thickly spread with cold butter, half filled with 
 Savarin paste, allowed to rise one-third in height, and then 
 baked in a moderate oven until a straw can be passed into 
 them without any of the cake sticking to it ; the little cakes 
 
 x^^'^T^'^'tm^^jr^-^ff 
 
 Sauarin Cake or Bum Bun. 
 
 or buns are cooled, and then set in a dish containing rum 
 sirup until they absorb enough of it to soften them ; the 
 sirup is made by dissolving in cold water as much white 
 sugar as it will receive, and then flavoring it with the best 
 Jamaica rum. 
 
 Savarin paste is made as follows : Sift two pounds of flour 
 
440 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 into a deep bowl, make a hole in the middle, and put into 
 it an ounce of compressed yeast, dissolved in half a pint of 
 lukewarm milk ; with the milk mix enough of the flour to 
 form a thick batter in the middle of the flour ; cover the 
 bowl, and let the batter rise in a warm place until it is foam- 
 ing ; then add one ounce of sugar, half an ounce of salt, 
 mix in the rest of the flour, and knead in six eggs, one at a 
 time ; then mix in a pound and a half of butter, and knead 
 in six more eggs, one at a time, and enough warm milk to 
 make a batter thick enough to retain its form when dropped 
 from a spoon upon paper; stir in a little sliced citron, or a 
 few seeded raisins, and bake the cakes as directed above. 
 
 BATH BTJNS. 
 
 Beat to a cream half a pound each of butter and sugar ; 
 add to it the yolks of eight eggs, and again beat the mixture 
 until it foams; sift half a small saltspoonful of powdered 
 tumeric and a level teaspoonful of salt with a pound and 
 a quarter of flour; add a level tablespoonful of caraway- 
 seeds to the sugar, eggs, and butter, and then very quickly 
 stir in the flour ; put the batter thus made upon baking-pans 
 well rubbed with butter, or covered with buttered paper, in 
 pieces as large as an ordinary lemon ; on the top of each 
 one put a teaspoonful of granulated sugar, or press well into 
 the top of each a lump of loaf-sugar and a small cube of 
 citron. Bake the buns in a moderate oven until a straw can 
 be run through them without sticking. The same ingredi- 
 ents can be made light by using half an ounce of compressed 
 yeast, and then baked according to the directions for any 
 raised cake. 
 
 BRIOCHE. 
 
 An excellent brioche or coffee-cake can be made as fol- 
 lows : Make a leaven by mixing together to a soft dough a 
 quarter of a pound of flour and two ounces of compressed 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 44I 
 
 yeast, dissolved in a gill of lukewarm water ; put it into a 
 
 Uncooked Brioche. 
 
 floured saucepan, put on the cover, and place the saucepan 
 
 /fa* * 
 
 Brioche or Coffee Cake. 
 
 in another containing hot water, to swell the leaven quickly 
 to double its size, but do not scald it ; then put on a gantry- 
 
442 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 board three-quarters of a pound of flour, two tablespoonfuls 
 of water, in which four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a level 
 teaspoonful of salt have been dissolved, two eggs, and ten 
 ounces of butter cut in small pieces, and knead them to- 
 gether until a smooth paste is formed ; then knead in four 
 more eggs, one at a time ; after the eggs add the leaven, and 
 knead it well with the dough ; then put the dough into a 
 floured bowl, cover it with a folded towel, put it in a warm 
 place in winter, or a moderately cool place in summer, and 
 let it rise for four hours ; at the end of four hours knead it, 
 and again let it rise for two hours j form it in rings or loaves 
 like those shown in the accompanying engravings, brush 
 them with beaten egg, put them on floured pans, and let 
 them rise again to twice their original height, keeping a 
 folded towel over them ; after this final rising, bake them for 
 about half an hour in a moderate oven. Fruit may be 
 added at discretion during the final kneading, and sugar 
 thickly dusted over the surface of the brioche if it is desired. 
 
 BRIOCHE RING. 
 
 This is a favorite form of baking fruit brioche, to be served 
 
 
 
 Brioche Ring. 
 
 with coffee for luncheon; after the brioche paste is made 
 as directed in the preceding recipe, add plenty of citron^ 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 443 
 
 seeded raisins, and currants to it, form it in a ring on paper 
 thickly buttered, and bake it, following the preceding recipe. 
 Very good brioche may be served among the second- 
 bourse sweets, with grated Parmesan cheese, or Gruyere cut 
 in dice. 
 
 ALMOND MACAROONS. 
 
 Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, pound 
 them smooth in a mortar, adding two or three drops of rose- 
 water whenever the pounded almonds begin to look oily ; 
 when they are smooth, beat the white of one egg, and mix it 
 with the almonds ; then beat two more whites stiff, mix them 
 lightly with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and add 
 them to the whites and almonds already mixed ; when the 
 mixture is smooth, stir into it another quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar ; when the macaroon batter looks creamy, 
 put it in little balls on paper slightly wet with a little brush ; 
 bake the macaroons in a cool oven. 
 
 ALMOND BISCUIT. 
 
 Blanch, and chop rather fine, four ounces of almonds. 
 Beat twelve whites of egg to a stiff froth ; mix smoothly with 
 them a 'pound of powdered sugar, and three-quarters of a 
 pound of flour ; put the mixture in little heaps on a baking- 
 pan buttered, or covered with buttered paper, and cover 
 each one with chopped almonds ; bake the biscuit in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE. 
 
 Sift a pound of flour, and put it near the fire to dry ; pour 
 boiling water over a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, 
 rub off" the skins, and chop the kernels a little ; line two 
 medium-size cake-moulds with buttered paper, or butter the 
 moulds thickly, and dust them with powdered sugar; and 
 see that the oven is properly heated. Beat six ounces or a 
 
444 PRACTICAL AMERICAN- COOKERY. 
 
 cupful of butter to a cream, with half a pound of powdered 
 sugar ; add a tablespoonful of rosewater, and then gradually 
 beat in the flour ; beat the whites of twelve eggs to a stiff 
 froth, and lighdy mix half a pound of powdered sugar with 
 them; then mix the whites and almonds with the cake- 
 batter, working very quickly and lightly; put the batter 
 into the moulds, set the moulds on earthen plates, and bake 
 the cakes in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an 
 hour, or until a dean broom-straw can be thrust into them 
 and withdrawn without being sticky. 
 
 LADY CAKE. 
 
 Make this cake like the preceding, omitting the almonds. 
 
 PINEAPPLE CAKE. 
 
 Have ready two cake-moulds, as directed in the preced- 
 ing recipe. Peel a small pineapple, and grate it ; beat a 
 quarter of a pound of butter to' a cream with a pound of 
 powdered sugar ; add the yolks of twelve eggs to it, and the 
 grated pineapple ; sift a level teaspoonful of salt, and two 
 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, with a pound of 
 flour, and then quickly beat the flour into the cake-batter ; 
 put the batter at once into the moulds, and bake the cakes 
 as directed in the preceding recipe. This cake is quite new, 
 and very good. 
 
 ORANGE CAKE. 
 
 Make it like the pineapple cake, using orange pulp and 
 juice, free from seeds, instead of the pineapple. 
 
 CITRON POUND CAKE. 
 
 Cut a quarter of a pqund of candied citron in small pieces ; 
 see that the oven is properly fjeated ; line two cake-tins with 
 buttered paper ; sift a pound of flour. Put a pound of but- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 445 
 
 tet into a large bowl, and beat it t,o a creamj then beat in 
 the following ingredients successively ; one pound of pow- 
 dered sugar, one pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, eight 
 eggs, and a wineglassful of brandy; last of all, add the 
 citron, and bake the cake as directed in the recipe for 
 almond cake. 
 
 Pirof CAKE. 
 
 For several cakes use the following ingredients (it is well 
 to make several, because they improve by keeping) : wash 
 and dry a pound and a half of currants ; slightly chop the 
 same quantity of the best dried or candied cherries, and 
 half a pound of shelled and blanched almonds ; half a pound 
 each of orange, lemon, and citron peel, cut in small bits ; 
 use half an ounce of mixed ground cinnamon, cloves, and 
 nutmegs, a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of brandy, eight 
 eggs, a pound of fine sugar, and a pound and a half each of 
 butter and sifted flour. See that the oven is properly heated, 
 and line the cake-moulds with buttered paper. Beat the 
 butter to a cream, then gradually beat in the sugar, flour, 
 and eggs, then the brandy, salt, spice, and fruit ; when all 
 the ingredients are smoothly mixed, put the cakes into the 
 buttered moulds, and bake them slowly. As plum-cake is 
 usually iced, several good recipes for cake icings are given. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Rub the inside of a smooth cake-pan, or plain charlotte- 
 mould, with olive-oil or melted butter, and dust it thickly with 
 powdered sugar ; sift si i ounces of flour ; grate the yellow 
 rind of a lemon ; separate the whites from the yolks of twelve 
 eggs ; weigh two ounces of powdered sugar, and sift it ; 
 weigh four ounces of powdered sugar, and beat it with the 
 yolks until they are thick and creamy ; if possible, have a 
 second person beating the whites ; at all events, beat them 
 
446 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Bag and Cone for mailing Lady-Fingers- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 447 
 
 to a stiff froth, and lightly mix with them the two ounces of 
 sugar ; then quickly and lightly mix, without beating, a third 
 of the flour with the yolks ; then a third of the whites ; then 
 more flour and whites, until all are used; add the grated 
 rind during the mixing. The motion of mixing must be 
 very light, rather cutting down through the cake-batter than 
 beating it ; beating the eggs makes them light, beating the 
 batter makes the cake tough. As soon as the cake is mixed, 
 turn it into the pan, and bake it in a moderate oven until a 
 broom-straw run into it can be withdrawn clean. 
 
 LADT-FINGERS. 
 
 Beat to a cream the yolks of six eggs, and half a pound 
 of powdered sugar; beat six whites to a stiff froth, and 
 lightly mix with them a quarter of a pound of sifted flour ; 
 then quickly and lightly mix these two batters ; put them on 
 paper laid on pans, using the bag and tube as shown in the 
 accompanying cut, or substitute moulds for this purpose ; 
 dust the lady-fingers with powdered sugar, and bake them 
 in a moderate oven until light brown. 
 
 This recipe makes a good sponge-cake if it is baked in 
 rather thin cakes. 
 
 CHARLOTTE RUSSB. 
 
 For a charlotte like that shown irt the accompanying 
 engraving, use for the sides lady-fingers, with the ends cut 
 square, or small slices of sponge-cake ; for the top use small 
 round sponge-cakes or macaroons ; lay the cakes inside a 
 plain round mould, arranging them as shown in the picture, 
 and slightly wetting the overlapping portions with the raw 
 white of egg to keep them in place; while the egg is 
 drying, prepare enough whipped cream to fill the centre of 
 the charlotte, according to the recipe for whipped cream ; 
 just before sending the charlotte to table, fill it with the 
 
448 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 cream, turn it out of the, mould on a pretty dish, and serve 
 it at once. 
 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Other creams, such as Bavarian, are sometimes used ; but 
 the plain whipped cream makes the most delicate charlotte. 
 
 WHIPPED CREAM. 
 
 Flavor and sweeten half a pint of sweet cream to taste ; 
 whip it for two minutes with an egg-whip, and let it stand 
 for a minute for the froth to free itself from air-bubbles; 
 then sjcim off the froth, and put it in a colander set in a dish 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 AA9 
 
 to drain j again whip the cream to a froth, and skim ; pro- 
 ceed in this way until all the cream is whipped ; then put it 
 in a cool place until it is required for the table. 
 
 PAPER CASES FOR SMALL CHARLOTTES. 
 
 When small charlottes are desired, and there are no indi- 
 vidual moulds at hand, paper cases can be made as shown in 
 the accompanying picture ; a circle of stiff pasteboard, or a 
 round tin cup without a handle, will serve to form the cases ; 
 by cutting the paper as shown on the upper edge, and then 
 
 
 Paper Case for Smalt Charlottes, 
 
 turning it as shown at the bottom, the shape of the circle 
 will be preserved ; if the paper is brushed with the white 
 of egg before it is turned up, it will surely stay in place. 
 The paper cases are lined with a strip of thin sponge-cake, 
 a bottom of cake is fitted in ; and then they are ready to fill, 
 as directed in the recipe for charlotte-nisse. 
 
 CAKE BAKED IN PAPER. 
 
 When a cake-pan is too shallow for the quantity of cake 
 desired, or when the cake is so light that it is likely to rise 
 above the top of the pan, it can be kept in shape by using 
 
4SO 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 a stiff glazed paper, cut as shown in the accompanying en- 
 graving, and thickly coated with butter before the cake is 
 put into it J if the oven-heat is moderate, the butter will 
 preserve the paper from burning. 
 
 It may not be amiss to reprint the following hints for the 
 successful baking of cake : — 
 
 In baking cake, the greatest care should be taken to guard 
 
 Cake Baked in Paper. 
 
 against too great heat in the oven ; a layer of sand on the 
 bottom of the oven, about half an inch thick, is a safeguard 
 against burning on the bottom ; if the general heat is too 
 great, the cake will burn, or crack on the top, before it can 
 bake properly ; if the oven is not hot enough, the cake will 
 not rise properly. A very safe test of the heat is to put a 
 spoonful of the cake dough or batter on a bit of butterfed 
 paper, and slip it into the oven ; this may be done during 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 451 
 
 the final mixing of the cake, so that it will not have to stand 
 after it is ready for the oven ; if the little cake bakes evenly 
 and quickly, without burning at the edge, the heat is right, 
 and the large cake may be put into the oven. An expe- 
 rienced baker always knows the varying temperatures of the 
 oven, and takes care that the heat is right before the cake is 
 begun. 
 
 PLAIN ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 Separate the white and yolk of one egg, and sift four 
 ounces of pulverized sugar ; beat the white of egg until it 
 foams ; then gradually beat in the fine sugar, until a smooth 
 icing is formed, when it will be ready to use ; keep the icing 
 very cold until it is needed. 
 
 BOILED ICING. 
 
 Put five ounces of white sugar over the fire in a sugar- 
 boiler, with a gill of cold water, and boil it until it is thick 
 enough to drop in fine threads from the spoon, from which 
 a little is poured ; while the sugar is thus being boiled to a 
 thread, beat the white of one egg to a stiff froth, and when 
 the sugar is ready pour it gradually into the egg, beating all 
 the time, until the icing is white and smooth ; then apply it 
 to the cake. 
 
 TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. 
 
 Mix with a boiled icing made as directed above, one 
 ounce each of chopped citron, candied cherries, seedless 
 raisins, candied pineapple, and blanched almonds. 
 
 CONFECTIONER'S ICING. 
 
 Beat the whites of two eggs to a foam ; then sift in grad- 
 ually half a pound of powdered sugar, beating all the time, 
 , until a smooth, thick icing is formed, which can be smoothly 
 cut and spread ; keep the icing cold until it is wanted for 
 use. 
 
452 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 FRUIT ICING. 
 
 To the quantity of confectioner's icing given in the recipe, 
 add two tablespoonfuls of any fruit-juice, and two heaping 
 tablespoonfuls more of powdered sugar; use the icing as 
 soon as it is made. 
 
 FRUIT-CREAM ICING. 
 
 Mix together one tablespoonful each of water and any 
 fruit-juice, the white of one egg, and enough finely pow- 
 dered sugar to make a smooth icing of like consistency with 
 that produced from any of the preceding recipes, and use 
 it at once. 
 
 CORN-STARCH ICING. 
 
 Sift together four ounces of powdered sugar, and a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of corn-starch ; beat the white of one egg 
 stiff, and then gradually beat into it the sugar and corn- 
 starch, until a smooth icing is formed, which can be cut and 
 spread with a flexible knife ; keep the icing cool until it is 
 required for use. 
 
 ALMOND ICING. 
 
 Pour boiling water upon an ounce of shelled almonds, 
 including a few bitter almonds ; rub off the skins with a wet 
 cloth, and then pound the nuts to a smooth paste, in a 
 mortar, adding a few drops of rose water whenever the 
 almonds begin to look oily; thoroughly mix the almonds 
 with a confectioner's icing, and use it at once. 
 
 PAPER CONES FOR ICING. 
 
 In icing cakes where ornamentation is desired, the little 
 paper cones shown in the accompanying engraving will be 
 found useful ; the tip of the second figure, b, may be cut off 
 to permit the escape of the icing ; or a larger cut may be 
 made and a metal tip inserted, as shown at the lower end of 
 Fig. 3. To make the cones, cut pieces of paper shaped like 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 453 
 
 Fig. I, about twelve inches across the longest diagonal side, 
 and five inches from ^ to C ; make creases in the paper fol- 
 lowing the dotted lines from ^ up to O and down to P, and 
 then from E to D ; take the tip of the paper marked C 
 between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, holding 
 the point marked A upward, and the diagonal or bias side 
 of the paper toward one ; then take the tip of the paper 
 marked B between the thumb and forefinger of the right 
 hand, and turn the paper around the fingers of the left hand 
 
 ^^. 
 
 ic''-— X\ 
 
 Jij.u \ 
 
 c\ 
 
 E P 
 
 Paper Cones for Icing. 
 
 until the creased lines A and P to the point O overlap 
 each other ; this will bring the creased line £ to D upon 
 the upper open part of the cone, leaving the long point of 
 paper towards B projecting above the upper opening of 'the 
 cone ; turn the point down inside the cone, and it will keep 
 the entire cone in form as shown in Fig. 2 ; the tip may 
 be cut off, forming the semicircular line marked X I^, 
 through which opening the icing passes out of the cone. 
 After the cone is filled with icing to within about a third 
 
454 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of the top, the top is folded down, as shown in Fig. 3, in 
 such a way as to enclose the icing: then, by holding the 
 full cone in the left hand, with the tip or bottom prpjecting 
 beyond the thumb and forefinger, the icing can be pressed 
 out at the tip by using the thumb, of the right hand* to force 
 it downward in the cone. As the icing softens paper, it is 
 well to use a rather stiff kind, and to make at least half a 
 dozen cones before beginning to ice a cake. Small bags 
 piay be made of thick cotton cloth, with suitable metal tips 
 fastened at the lower pointed end, to use for icing cakes. 
 
 OMELETTE SOUFFLE. 
 
 An omelette souffle properly made is one of the most deli- 
 cious of hot sweets. It is not difficult to make after its 
 principles are understood, and yet it is seldom well made by 
 ordinary cooks. Many dishes made from mixtures which 
 contain flour and milk are called by the name of this one, 
 but they are m no way entitled to such distinction. The 
 true omelette souffle contains only eggs, sugar, and the 
 chosen flavoring. A tin-lined copper souffle-^zn, or a thick 
 enamelled metal dish, which will quickly heat, and remain 
 hot after it is taken from the oven, is required for cooking 
 the omelet ; spread the pan with cold butter, and see that 
 the oven is quite hot before the omelet is made. Put in a 
 quart bowl the yolks of three raw eggs, six heaping table- 
 spoonfuls of pulverized sugar, and a teaspoonful of any good 
 flavoring essence or cordial, and beat them to a smooth 
 cream ; beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, and then 
 quickly and lightly put the yolks and sugar with the whites. 
 This part of the operation requires a quick, deft hand. The 
 yolks should be poured in the centre of the whites, and then 
 cut down through, rather than beaten or stirred ; by hold- 
 ing the spoon in the right hand with the bowl outward, and 
 cutting down into the whites with its edge, an inward and up- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 455 
 
 ward turn of the right wrist will bring the spoon out again 
 on the top of the whites ; repeat this cutting down and turn- 
 ing motion rapidly and lightly until the omelet is mixed ; 
 then as rapidly and lightly put the omelet into the pan in 
 which it is to be baked, dust it over with powdered sugar, 
 place it in the oven, and bake it until it is delicately 
 browned, which will be in about ten minutes if the oven is 
 moderately hot. Do not begin to make the souffle until 
 about twenty minutes before it is needed at the table. It is 
 better to have the guests wait for it than to have it ruined 
 by standing after it is done. Send it to the table directly it 
 is taken from the oven, slipping the souffle-'pa.n on a hot plat- 
 ter. Some cooks hold a hot salamander over a souffle in 
 carrying it to the dining-room. 
 
 ALMOND SOUFFlA 
 
 This souffle may be baked in a souffle-6.\s\\ of metal, or in 
 small paper cases made by folding stiff white paper as 
 shown in the first of the annexed cuts ; the cases should not 
 
 Pa/ier Cases for Souffles. 
 
 be filled more than one-half, because the souffle rises very 
 high ; and it should be served as soon as done, because it 
 falls directly the heat is withdrawn from it. Some careful 
 cooks hold a hot salamander over souffles in carrying them 
 from the oven to the dining-room door. Cuts of salaman- 
 ders are given elsewhere. After the souffle is baked, it has 
 the appearance of the second picture. To make almond 
 
456 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 souffle, separate the yolks from the whites of six eggsj 
 pound four ounces of almond macaroons fine ; put half a 
 pint of cream over the fire with four ounces of powdered 
 sugar and a wineglass of brandy, and stir until the cream is 
 
 Souffle Baked in Paper Case. 
 
 scalding hot ; then pour the cream over the macaroons, and 
 let the mixture cool. When it is cold, beat in the yolks of 
 the eggs ; have the paper cases set on a baking-sheet ; beat 
 the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and quickly stir them 
 
 Souffles Dished for Serving. 
 
 into the sou^e-mixtme ; put it at once into the paper cases, 
 and bake them in a moderate oven until light brown. Serve 
 the soufflks directly they are brown, arranging them upon a 
 pretty dish, and hastening them to the table. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 457 
 
 SALAMANDERS. 
 
 Salamanders are heavy pieces of iron, fitted with thick 
 wooden handles. They are heated for the purpose of 
 browning dishes that need not be placed in the oven, such 
 as the meringue on cold pies, and breaded dishes that do 
 
 Salamanders. 
 
 not require heating. They are very useful when the oven- 
 heat is too slow to properly color baked dishes ; and they 
 are also used to hold above dishes which should be served 
 very hot, such as souffles. 
 
 BOILED AND STEAMED PUDDINGS. 
 
 The advantage of steaming puddings over boihng them is 
 that they are less likely to be watery if they are steamed. 
 Any of the boiled puddings may be steamed in an ordinary 
 steamer, but a little longer time must be allowed for cooking 
 them; and care must be taken to have the cover of the 
 
458 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Steamer very tight, in order to prevent the escape of steam. 
 If the cover is loose, it should have a cloth laid under it to 
 make it fit tightly. Also, care should be exercised lest the 
 water iii the steamer become exhausted. 
 
 HOT CABINET-PUDDING, RUM SAUCE. 
 
 Butter a round or oval plain tin pudding-mould thickly with 
 cold butter. Cut a quarter of a pound of citron in the form 
 of leaves and stems. Cut some fanciful flower shapes from 
 four ounces of French candied fruit, choosing a good variety 
 of colors, and chop the rest of the fruit. Have ready four 
 ounces of candied cherries. With the fruit-flowers, cherries, 
 and citron-leaves make wreaths upon the bottom and sides 
 of the buttered mould, fixing the fruit in place with the cold 
 butter. Over the fruit decoration lay thin sponge-cake cut 
 so as to fit the inside of the mould. After the mould is hned 
 with cake, fill it with alternate layers of cake and the fruit 
 not used for decoration. Make a custard by thoroughly 
 mixing four eggs, four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a 
 pint of milk. Strain this custard, and slowly pour it into the 
 mould containing the cake and fruit. Set the mould in a 
 saucepan containing enough hot water to reach half way up 
 the sides of the mould. Cover the saucepan, and steam the 
 pudding for two hours, or until the custard is quite firm. 
 Test the custard by running a small sharp knife down 
 through it. If the custard is liquid enough to stain the 
 knife, steam the pudding longer. When the pudding is done 
 turn it out of the mould, and serve it with rum-sauce. If a 
 tight covered mould is used, there will be no danger of water 
 penetrating the pudding : otherwise care must be taken to 
 prevent this. 
 
 FOREST-CITY BUM SAUCE. 
 
 Beat to a smooth cream the yolks of two raw eggs, two 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a saltspoou- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 4^9 
 
 ful of grated nutmeg. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff 
 froth. Just before serving the sauce, quickly and lightly mix 
 with the whites two heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered 
 sugar ; then mix in the yolks, and finally a glass of the best 
 old Jamaica rum, or more, according to taste. Use the 
 sauce as soon as it is made. 
 
 CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. 
 
 Stone one pound of raisins, put them in a bowl, pour over 
 them a glass of brandy, and let them stand while the rest of 
 the ingredients are being prepared. Pick over a pound of 
 currants, wash them thoroughly in plenty of cold water, rub 
 them dry on a towel, and then in a sieve with a little flour to 
 separate the stems from them. Free a pound of beef-suet 
 from skin, and chop it fine with four tablespoonfuls of flour. 
 Cut in thin slices two ounces of citron and one ounce each 
 of candied lemon and orange peel. Grate the yellow rind 
 and squeeze the juice of one orange and one lemon. Pour 
 boiling water on four ounces of shelled almonds ; let them 
 remain in it until the skins become moist, then rub them off 
 the nuts with a clean dry towel, and cut each nut in three or 
 four slices. Grate one nutmeg, and sift it into a pound 
 of sugar, with one teaspoonful of salt. Crumb one pound of 
 dry bread from the inside of a stale loaf. Then mix to- 
 gether all these ingredients with the hand, adding to them 
 eight eggs, one glass each of good brandy and sherry, and 
 just enough cream or rich milk to slightly moisten the pud- 
 ding. Butter and flour a tin pudding- mould, shaking out 
 all superfluous flour ; fill the mould to within an inch of the 
 top ; lay a round of buttered white paper over the pudding, 
 cover the mould so tightly that no water can penetrate to the 
 pudding while it is boiling, and fasten the cover securely. 
 Set the pudding-mould in sufficient boiling water to reach 
 two-thirds up the side, and boil the pudding steadily for 
 
460 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ten hours, replenishing the water as it boils away. The 
 mould must be perfectly water-tight, or the puddmg will Jae 
 spoiled. The mould must not be opened until the pudding 
 is wanted for the table. Plum-puddings made in this way 
 will keep for a long time in a cool, dry place. Before using 
 them the mould must be placed in boiling water, as before 
 directed, and the pudding boiled for two hours. Serve the 
 pudding hot, turned from the mould upon a hot dish ; just 
 before sending it to the table, pour over it a glass of rum or 
 brandy, set fire to the spirits, and send the pudding to the 
 table blazing. Serve with a dishful of rum or brandy sauce. 
 
 BRANDY SAVCE. 
 
 Brown two tablespoonfuls of sugar over the fire ; add two 
 tablespoonfuls of brandy, six whole cloves, an inch of stick 
 cinnamon, the yellow rind of a lemon cut very thin, and half 
 a pint of water. Let the sauce boil ; pour it into a sauce- 
 bowl containing the juice of a lemon and two wineglasses of 
 brandy, and serve it at once. 
 
 BOILED BATTER-PUDDING. 
 
 Butter a tin pudding-mould or an earthen bowl thickly ; 
 beat the yolks of four raw eggs to a cream, add to them 
 half a pound of flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of 
 baking-powder and half a teaspoonful of salt ; next smoothly 
 and gradually mix in a pint of milk, and four whites of egg 
 beaten to a froth ; pift the pudding at once into the buttered 
 mould, and close it water-tight ; put it into boiling water, and 
 boil it steadily; the length of time for boihng steadily is 
 two hours ; when the batter is put into a buttered earthen 
 bowl, the bowl should not be quite full, and a cloth, wet 
 in hot water and then floured, should be tied over the bowl, 
 meeting under the bottom. Batter-puddings must always 
 be served as soon as they are done. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 461 
 
 FRUIT SAUCE. 
 
 Any good pudding- sauce accompanies batter-puddings ; a 
 simple one can be made by mixing with a fork equal parts 
 of butter and granulated sugar, together with enough fruit 
 juice or essence to flavor the sauce palatably. 
 
 BRANDY HARD SAUCE. 
 
 The use of wine or brandy in place of the fruit-juice 
 transforms the sauce into brandy or wine sauce. 
 
 BOILED BREAD-PUDDING. 
 
 Grate a quart bowl full of stale bread, pour over it a 
 quart of boiling milk, and let it stand an hour ; then add 
 sugar to taste, and three eggs beaten to a foam ; butter a 
 bowl just large enough to contain the pudding, put it into 
 the bowl, and tie a floured cloth over the bowl, first wetting 
 the cloth in hot water, and then thickly dusting it with flour ; 
 put the pudding into a large kettle half full of boiling water, 
 and boil it steadily for half an hour ; then turn it from the 
 bowl, and serve it at once, with any good pudding-sauce. 
 
 CARAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 The following recipe is taken from the author's "Good 
 Dinners every Day : " — 
 
 Put four tablespoonfuls of white sugar in a saucepan upon 
 the fire, with one tablespoonful of water ; stir it constantly 
 with a wooden spoon for three or four minutes until all the 
 water evaporates ; watch it carefully until it assumes a deli- 
 cate brown color ; in the mean time put into another sauce- 
 pan six ounces of sugar, half the yellow rind of a lemon 
 cut thin, one inch of stick-cinnamon, and one pint of cold 
 water ; bring these to a boil gradually ; simmer for ten min- 
 utes; add one glass of wine, or half a glass of brandy; 
 
462 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 Strain the liquid quickly into the caramel, or browned sugar, 
 mix them thoroughly, and serve the sauce with the pudding. 
 
 BOILED APPLE-PUDDING. 
 
 Peel about a quart of apples, cut. them in quarters, remove 
 the cores, and lay the apples in cold water ; peel, boil, and 
 mash half a dozen large potatoes, adding to them, while 
 mashing them, half a pound of butter ; then mix with the po- 
 tatoes an equal quantity of flour, and sufficient cold water to 
 form a stiff pastry, and roll it out about an inch thick ; dip a 
 large pudding-cloth in boiling water, spread it inside a bowl 
 large enough to contain the apples, leaving the sides of the 
 cloth hanging over the edges of the bowl ; dredge the cloth 
 quickly with flour, and then spread the crust over the cloth ; 
 next drain the apples, put them into the crust, mixing with 
 them a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and four table- 
 spoonfuls of brown sugar ; draw the pastry up around the 
 nipples, enclosing them entirely, and slightly wetting the edges 
 to make them adhere closely; then tie the pudding-cloth 
 tightly around the pudding ; put the pudding at once into a 
 large pot of boiling water, and boil it steadily for three hours, 
 keeping it well covered ; when the pudding is done, remove 
 the cloth, and serve it with any good pudding-sauce. 
 
 EGG PUDDING-SAUCE. 
 
 Beat to a cream one cupful each of butter and sugar, the 
 yolk of a raw egg, and a glass of wine ; beat the white of an 
 .egg to a froth ; make the sauce as quickly as possible ; when 
 the ingredients first named are beaten to a cream, stir in a 
 gill of boiling water, and the white of the egg, and send the 
 sauce to the table at once. 
 
 BOILED HUCKLEBERRY-PUDDING, WJTff EGGS. 
 
 Pick over, wash, and dry a quart of huckleberries, and roll 
 them in flour ; sift together a quart of flour, and one tea- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 463 
 
 spoonful each of salt and baking-soda; butter a tight tin 
 pudding-mould ; beat half a cupful of butter and a cupful of 
 sugar to a cream ; beat two eggS to a cream with a cupful 
 of sugar ; next put the berries, flour, butter, sugar, and eggs 
 into a mixing-bowl, and stir in sufficient sour milk to make a 
 soft dough ; put this dough into the buttered tin mould, close 
 the mould so that no water can penetrate it, put it into a pot 
 of actually boiling water, and boil it steadily for three hours ; 
 then turn the pudding from the mould, and serve it hot with 
 any good pudding-sauce. The same pudding is excellent if 
 baked in a buttered dish until the dough is quite done, for 
 about half an hour. 
 
 BERRY SAUCE. 
 
 Mash a cupful of ripe berries ; beat a cupful of sugar and 
 half a cupful of buttA: to a cream ; beat the white of an egg 
 to a stiff froth ; mix all these ingredients lightly together, 
 and then serve the sauce at once ; it should not be made 
 until it is wanted for the table. 
 
 BOILED RICE-DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Pick over a cupful of rice, wash it in cold water, and put 
 it over the fire to boil in two quarts of boiling water contain- 
 ing a tablespoonful of salt ; boil the rice fast for twenty min- 
 utes, then drain it on a sieve ; while Jthe rice is being boiled, 
 peel and core half a dozen medium-sized apples of good 
 flavor, fill the centres with sugar and spice or with any good 
 jelly or marmalade ; when the rice is drained, put some of it 
 around each apple in a layer about half an inch thick, tak- 
 ing care to entirely cover the apples ; tie each apple in a 
 small pudding-cloth, after it has been covered with rice; 
 when all the little dumplings are thus prepared, drop them 
 into boiling water, and boil them steadily for an hour ; then 
 carefully remove the cloths, and serve the dumplings without 
 breaking them apart. Use any good pudding-sauce with 
 
464 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 them. A raw egg may be mixed with the rice before putting 
 it over the apples, by way of varying the dish. 
 
 MAPLE-SUGAR SAUCE. 
 
 Break half a pound of maple-sugar in small bits, put it 
 into a thick saucepan with half a gill of cold water ; set the 
 saucepan over the fire, and melt the sugar until it forms a 
 clear sirup ; then remove it from the fire, and stir in two 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of butter cut in small bits. Serve 
 the sauce hot with any fruit-pudding. 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Baked puddings are generally considered safer for inex- 
 perienced cooks to make, because there is no difficulty to be 
 apprehended except burning, while they are being cooked, 
 and that simply requires watchfulness to guard against it. 
 Many of them are very delicate, and they are more likely to 
 be digestible than boiled puddings. When baked puddings 
 need sauces, any of those given with the recipes for boiled 
 puddings will answer. 
 
 BAKED PLUM-PUDDING. 
 
 Mix the following ingredients as directed in the recipe for 
 Christmas plum-pudding : Half a pound each of suet, rai- 
 sins, and currants ; quarter of a pound of sugar, sifted with 
 one pound of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
 one of salt ; one ounce each of candied citron, lemon, and 
 orange-peel; one small nutmeg, grated. Mix with them 
 quickly one gill of brandy, one egg, and sufficient milk to 
 make a thick batter; put the pudding at once into a 
 buttered pudding-mould, and bake it for two hours in a mod- 
 erate oven. Dust it with pulverized sugar before serving it, 
 and send it to the table with rum or brandy sauce. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 465 
 
 BAKED nWIAN-FUDDING. 
 
 Mix together one cupful each of yellow Indian meal and 
 molasses, pour over them a quart of boiling milk, mixing it in 
 gradually ; then add a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoon- 
 ful of ground cinnamon or ginger, and a heaping table- 
 spoonful of butter, and let these ingredients cool ; when they 
 are quite cold, put them into an earthen pudding-dish, set it 
 in a moderate oven, and pour upon the top a pint of cold 
 milk, but do not stir the milk into the pudding ; bake the 
 pudding for three hours, taking care that it does not burn. 
 Serve the pudding either hot or cold. 
 
 LEMON-PUDDING. 
 
 Make a good pastry, and line an earthen dish with it ; rub 
 some lumps of sugar on the rind of two fresh lemons, to 
 absorb the oil from them, and then squeeze the lemons, and 
 strain the juice ; melt six ounces or tablespoonfuls of butter 
 by gentle heat ; beat the yolks of eight eggs to a cream with 
 half a pound of white sugar ; last of all, beat eight whites 
 to a stiff froth, mix them lightly with the other ingredients, 
 put the mixture into the dish lined with pastry, and set the 
 pudding in a moderate oven, to bake until the pastry is 
 done ; serve the pudding hot. 
 
 COCOANUT-PUDDING WITH SPONGE-CAKE. 
 
 Remove the shell and brown skin from a fresh cocoanut, 
 and grate it fine ; save the milk of the nut, and strain it ; 
 put the grated nut into an earthen dish with a pound of stale 
 sponge-cake ; add to the cocoanut-milk a tablespoonful of 
 butter melted, and enough sweet milk to make a quart, and 
 pour it over the nut and sponge-cake ; beat four eggs thor- 
 oughly, mix them with the nut and cake, add four heaping 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and put the pudding into an earthen 
 
466 1 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 dish ; bake the pudding for half an hour in a moderate oven, 
 and then serve it with powdered sugar. 
 
 GRAPE-PUBDING. 
 
 Butter an earthen baking-dish, and fill it with alternate 
 layers of ripe grapes, sugar, and stale bread-crumbs, making 
 the top layer of crumbs ; bake it in a moderate oven for 
 half an hour. Serve it hot with powdered sugar. 
 
 MARhBOROUGH-PUDDING. 
 
 Peel, core, and stew six large tart apples until they can 
 be rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher ; melt six 
 ounces of butter by gentle heat, and mix it with the apple ; 
 grate the rind and strain the juice of two lemons, and put 
 them with the apple ; beat the yolks of six eggs to a cream 
 with eight ounces of sugar, and add them to the apple. 
 Last of all, beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, add 
 them to the pudding, and bake it in an eartheri dish, lined 
 with nice pastry, for about half an hour, in a moderate oven. 
 Serve it hot. 
 
 FIES AND TARTS. 
 
 Pastry forms such a large part of American so-called 
 desserts, that it i is fully illustrated and described ; the pic- 
 tures are copied from Gouffd's " Royal Confectionery Book ; " 
 and the method given is that of Careme, now followed by 
 the best-trained masters of the art of cookery. A great deal 
 of patience and considerable practice are required to reach 
 the point of success with puff-paste, but it is usually thought 
 worth all necessary labor. It should always be made in the 
 coolest available place, and in the intervals of doing other 
 kitchen work, or the process will seem long and tiresome. 
 
 For those who do not wish to undertake puff-paste, re- 
 cipes are given for several easier and excellent pastries. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 467 
 
 PUFF-FASTE. 
 
 The following recipe is reproduced from the author's 
 " Baltimore Recipes ; " the cuts which illustrate the process 
 are copied from Gouff^'s " Royal Confectionery," as are 
 many others in this volume. A smooth hard-wood roller, 
 and a very thick hard-wood or stone pastry-slab are needed, 
 the stone being preferable because it keeps the pastry cool. 
 First wet the slab with a little water, lay upon it half a pound 
 
 Circle of Flour for Puff-Paste. 
 
 of butter, work out all the salt and buttermilk by kneading 
 it with both hands, and then keep out about an ounce of 
 butter; fold the rest in a floured napkin, and lay it upon 
 some ice. Second, dry the slab thoroughly, sift upon it half 
 a pound of fine white flour, form this in a circle or well, as 
 shown in the first cut, putting aside about two ounces to 
 dust the slab with ; into the well drop the ounce of butter 
 reserved and the yolk of one egg, and work them to a cream 
 with the tips of the fingers ; to this gradually add the flour 
 
468 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 from the well, with enough ice-cold water poured on from 
 time to time as required to form a dough about the consist- 
 ency of shortcake (about one cup of water/more or less, 
 will be used, according to the body of the flour) ; now work 
 the paste about on the slab until it leaves it clean and free, 
 and does not cling to the fingers ; take it up in a ball, and 
 dust the slab slightly with flour, lay on the paste, flatten it 
 down, and beat it with the roller for five minutes, turning rnd 
 doubling it constantly, or knead it like bread for five v k\r 
 
 CL. 
 
 Butter enclosed in Paste. 
 
 utes. This process toughens it so that the butter wil) not 
 break through in the subsequent manipulations. Tl'ird, 
 raise the paste, and dust the slab again with flour ; lay the 
 paste on it, and roll out to a square of about eight inches ; 
 turn the face of the paste, or the paste which has been next 
 the roller, down upon the slab, lay upon it the lump of cold 
 butter, and fold the paste up and over it so as to cover every 
 part ; the butter may be enclosed in a square, as shown in 
 the second cut, or the paste wrapped over it to form a baJl ; 
 turn the ball thus formed upside down, roll it out gently ard 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 469 
 
 evenly until the butter is incorporated with the paste, taking 
 care not to break through the latter, as all the air-cells that 
 
 Puff-Paste roiled out. 
 
 can be gathered unbroken in the paste assist its rising ; now 
 turn the sheet of paste gently about on the slab, so that 
 every part may be rolled to the same thickness of about one- 
 
470 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 quarter of an inch ; in turning the paste Hft its outer edge, 
 and gently lap it over the roller toward you, being sure not 
 to tear it ; roll it gently inward, keeping it around the roller, 
 and lifting it clear from the board when you wish to turn it, 
 or change its position in any way ; when you wish to replace 
 it upon the slab, gently unwind it from the roller, letting the 
 face or part next the roller fall upon the slab. Fourth, the 
 
 Pug-Paste after a "tarn.' 
 
 paste is now ready for forming the flakes ; to do this, turn 
 the face down, fold it in three thicknesses lengthwise, making 
 it three times as long as it is wide, as shown in the third cut ; 
 and then folding it again three times to make the square 
 shown in the fourth cut ; lay it in a long pan floured, set this 
 in a larger pan of ice, and place upon it a third pan filled with 
 ice, so that the paste will be completely surrounded with ice ; 
 let the pan stand for five minutes in the ice-box, or in the 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 471 
 
 coolest place you can command, always bearing in mind 
 that the cooler the paste is kept, the better it will be. Re- 
 peat the folding process described in the "fourth" part, six 
 times in succession, every time setting the paste in ice for 
 five minutes, every time turning the face of the paste with 
 the folds down to the slab, and every time folding in an 
 opposite direction, or the butter will lie at one side, and the 
 paste will rise unevenly in baking. Fifth, to finish : After 
 the sixth time of folding, roll the paste out to the thickness 
 of one-quarter of an inch, and cut out in shape with a knife 
 for pies, or for patties with a sharp tin cutter of the size re- 
 quired, marking in the centre of each patty a circle an inch in 
 diameter with a small pastry-cutter. For small tarts or patties 
 have the paste one-quarter of an inch thick ; for large ones, 
 or vol-au-vents, have it about one-third thicker ; for patties, 
 use two layers of paste, put one over the other after cutting 
 out, and wet the under layer with a soft brush dipped in 
 cold water ; brush the top of the second layer with an egg 
 beaten up ; this is called doree, or gilding, and the process 
 gives the pastry a beautiful golden blaze. In forming vol- 
 au-vents or large pastries, use three or even four thicknesses 
 of the paste, putting them together as for patties, brushing 
 the under layers with cold water, and gilding the top. Sixth, 
 and lastly, wet the baking-pan with water, instead of greas- 
 ing it, lay the paste upon it, set it for five minutes upon the 
 ice in order that the layers may adhere, and put in a mod- 
 erate oven five minutes so that all the air-cells will have a 
 chance to expand ; then finish at a heat of about 300 degrees 
 Fahrenheit, and be sure that the patties are done before 
 taking them from the oven, or they will fall. 
 
 PATi nOFFICE. 
 
 ' Pate d^ office, or office-paste, which is mentioned in the 
 recipe for St. Honord cake, is made by sifting a pound of 
 
472 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 flour upon the pastry-board, and making a hollow in the 
 middle of the flour as shown in the illustrations of puff-paste ; 
 into the centre put half a pound of powdered sugar, two 
 whole eggs and the yolks of two more, and a level teaspoon- 
 ful of salt ; mix these ingredients to a smooth paste with 
 the tips of the fingers, and then knead the paste thoroughly 
 as directed in the recipe for puff-paste, until it is smooth 
 and firm; if the paste is too dry to knead well, add one 
 or more egg-yolks, to produce the proper consistency, and 
 then roll it out and use it. Office^paste is used for making 
 foundations and ornaments for various custards, baked egg- 
 puddings, and creamy pies ; it is palatable, and more digest- 
 ible than pastry made with butter or shortening. 
 
 FRUIT PATTIES. 
 
 After puff-paste is made, cut patty-cases from it with the 
 round pastry-cutterS, a picture of which is given ; the cut- 
 ters are either fluted, as shown in the case, or plain circles, 
 like the one in the engraving below. The cut of the first 
 stage of patties shows the round for a patty, and the pastry 
 from which it is cut; that of the second stage shows the 
 plain cutter, one round of pastry with some mince-meat laid 
 on it, a second round laid over the mince-meat, and then the 
 two pressed together by the use of a small cutter, the under 
 edges of the top round being wet to retain it in place while 
 the patty is being baked ; the top of the patty is gilded with 
 beaten egg before it is baked. Open patties are- made like 
 the cases fof oyster patties, and after they are cold they are 
 filled with any good preserved fruit, and dished on a napkin, 
 as shown in the last engraving which accompanies this 
 recipe. 
 
 CREAM CRUST. 
 
 Add half a level teaspoonful of salt to half a pint of cream, 
 and then stir in enough sifted flour to make a pastry suffi- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 
 
 473 
 
 Fluted and Plain Patty-Cutters in Case. 
 
 E ?<kj> 'h- Sill ifi finr^^i-*^ "N 
 
 r 3'- ^r- --' ~ -" 
 
 ■JLJLift 
 
 J 
 
 Patties, First Stage. 
 
 s>u • 
 
 Lite*- 
 
 - _ _ . s'"^ -_: , ^ »'.r 
 
 Patties, Second Stage. 
 
 DM of Fruit Pttttiaa. 
 
474 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ciently stiff to roll out ; handle this pastry as little as possi- 
 ble, and use it as soon as it is made. 
 
 Sour cream may be used, a teaspoonful of saleratus being 
 dissolved in each pint before it is mixed with the flour. 
 
 LARD PIE-CBUST. 
 
 Chop together in a bowl one pound of flour and half a 
 pound of firm lard, cutting the lard in little flakes ; add half 
 a teaspoonful of salt to the flour, and sufficient cold water 
 to make a soft paste ; turn the paste out on a floured board, 
 and roll it half an inch thick ; dust the paste with flour, and 
 put a quarter of a pound of butter over it in small bits ; roll 
 the paste up, enclosing the butter completely, then roll and 
 fold it several times, using flour enough to prevent sticking 
 to the board or roller ; then use it for pies or puddings. 
 
 GOOD PLAIN PASTRY. 
 
 The secret of success in making pastry is to work quickly 
 in a cool room, and to keep the pastry as" cold as possible. 
 Even in making plain pastry, only the best flour and butter 
 should be used ; the flour should be freshly sifted, and the 
 butter worked with the hands in plenty of ice-water until 
 it assumes a waxy appearance and touch ; if it is worked 
 quickly and lightly, it will not stick to the hands ; when the 
 butter is of the proper consistency, it should be patted with 
 the hands into a cake about an inch thick, wrapped in a 
 floured towel, and put in a dish set on ice in summer, or out 
 of doors in winter, so that it may become quite cold while 
 the paste is being prepared ; allow half a pound of butter 
 to a pound of flour. After the flour is sifted, mix with it a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and with a sharp knife chop into it one- 
 third of the butter ; then quickly mix with it enough ice- 
 water to make a dough which does not stick to the hands ; 
 the mixing may be done with the knife or the hand, but it 
 
SECOjXD-COUKSk SWEETS. 
 
 475 
 
 must be done quickly ; next, lightly flour a smooth pastry- 
 board or marble slab, lay the dough on it, and with a floured 
 roller roll it out about half an inch thick ; cut the rest of the 
 butter in thick slices, and lay it upon the dough, with spaces 
 of about an inch between the slices j dust flour lightly over 
 the butter, and fold the paste over it in such a way as t^. 
 
 Pastra Pincers. 
 
 completely enclose it ; then gently roll it to the thickness of 
 an inch, dust a little flour over it, fold it several times, and 
 again roll it out ; if the butter shows anywhere through the 
 paste, put it in a floured towel, and cool it for about fifteen 
 minutes ; then roll it out, fold it, and roll it again two or 
 three times, and use it for pies. If the pastry is cold and 
 
476 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the oven hot, the pie-crust will be good when baked. If 
 the crust browns before the contents of the pie appeiar to 
 be cooked, lay a piece of paper over it. 
 
 In handling pastry, take care not to press or heat it by 
 letting the hands rest on it ; in forming the crimped edge 
 upon an open pie, use such pastry-pincers as are shown in 
 the picture of that implement, or press the scallops with a 
 knife, rather than the fingers. 
 
 CHRISTMAS MINCE-MEAT. 
 
 The following recipe for mince-meat has been printed by 
 the author several times ; but she ventures to repeat it, be- 
 cause it has always given satisfaction. In common with the 
 recipe for Christmas plum-pudding, she has taught it for 
 years, and sees no reason for changing it. 
 
 Use equal parts of boiled beef and tongue. If the tongue 
 is hard and dry, soak it over night in plenty of cold water ; 
 in the morning put it over the fire in a large pot nearly full 
 of cold water, and let the water gradually reach the boiling- 
 point ; when the water begins to boil, pour it ofiT, and replace 
 it with fresh cold water; again heat the water, with the 
 tongue in it, to the boiling-point, and boil it steadily and 
 slowly for one hour. At the end of an hour put in with the' 
 tongue three pounds of lean beef cut from the neck or 
 round, add a tablespoonful of salt to the pot-liquor, and 
 continue the boiUng by a very gentle heat for three hours 
 longer ; then uncover the pot, set it off the fire, take out the 
 tongue and skin it, and then return it to the pot, and let 
 both tongue and beef cool in the pot-hquor. 
 
 When the tongue and beef are cold, free the beef from 
 all skin and gristle, and chop it fine. Cut off from the 
 tongue the fleshy parts about the roots, rejecting the gristle, 
 and add to them enough of the trimmings from the tongue 
 to make two pounds; chop this fine, and put it with the 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 477 
 
 beef. Remove all membrane from three pounds of fresh 
 beef-suet, chop it fine, and add it to the chopped beef and 
 tongue. Next add to the meat and suet the following named 
 ingredients : Four pounds of chopped tart apples, weighed 
 after they are pared and cored ; four pounds of raisins stoned 
 and chopped, not too fine ; two pounds of currants, picked 
 over, well washed, and then rubbed dry in a clean towel, 
 and sifted to free them from stems ; one pound of citron 
 cut in small, thin slices ; a quarter of a pound each of can- 
 died orange and lemon peel, sliced thin ; one pound of 
 sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter almonds, weighed 
 after the shells are removed ; blanch the almonds by pouring 
 boiling water over them after they are shelled, and then 
 rubbing the skin off with a clean towel, and chop them, not 
 too fine ; add the grated yellow rind and juice of four lem- 
 ons and four oranges. Sweeten the mince-meat with four 
 pounds of coffee-sugar ; season it with two level tablespoon- 
 fuls of salt, one level teaspoonful each of pepper, ground 
 cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and mace, and two medium-sized 
 nutmegs grated. Next add to the mince-meat one quart of 
 Madeira wine, half a pint of good brandy, and sufficient 
 sweet cider to moisten it. Mix the mince-meat thoroughly, 
 taste it, and add, if required, more sugar, salt, and spice ; 
 remember that in good mince-meat no one flavor should 
 predominate ; it should have a rich, even taste. Mix it 
 thoroughly, and let it stand at least one day before using it. 
 Mince-meat carefully made after this recipe will keep all 
 winter, if covered and placed where it is cool. 
 
 PLAIN MINCE-MEAT. 
 
 Use two pounds of lean beef from the neck or shoulder ; 
 boil it gently until it is tender, putting it over the fire in 
 boiling water enough to cover it ; when it is quite tender, 
 cool and chop it. Prepare the following named ingredients, 
 
478 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and add them to the meat : one pound each of suet, raisins, 
 and currants ; a quarter of a pound of citron, four pounds of 
 apples, two pounds of sugar, two nutmegs, two level table- 
 spoonfuls of salt ; one teaspoonful each of pepper, ground 
 cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and mace ; one tablespoonful of 
 essence of lemon ; half a pint each of wine and molasses ; 
 one quart of sweet cider ; one gill of brandy. Moisten the 
 mince-meat with some of the pot-liquor in which the beef 
 was boiled, adding to it the fat which forms on the top of 
 the cold pot-liquor. Make the seasoning of the mince-meat 
 palatable, and keep it over a day before using it. 
 
 This recipe has been printed before, like the preceding 
 one ; but it would not be well to omit it on that account. 
 
 FRUIT MINCE-PIES. 
 
 This mince will keep for several weeks in cold weather, 
 and makes a good variation from the usual mince-meat. 
 Pick over, wash, and rub dry on a towel, a pound of dried 
 currants ; slice two ounces of citron, seed one pound of 
 raisins ; remove all skin and membrane from a pound of 
 beef-suet, and chop it quite fine ; pare and core apples 
 enough to weigh two pounds, and chop them fine ; grate 
 the rind and squeeze the juice of one lemon and one 
 orange ; mix all these ingredients thoroughly ; add to them 
 a pound of sugar, a gill of brandy, two gills of good port, 
 and salt, ground mace, cinnamon, and cloves to taste ; more 
 sugar may be required. If all this mince is not used, pack 
 it tightly in glass jars, lay a round of paper dipped in brandy 
 in each jar, and close the jars air-tight until it is needed for 
 use. 
 
 APPLE AND PIE-PLANT PIE. 
 
 Use equal quantities of tart apples and pie-plant, or gar- 
 den rhubarb, and a good pastry, for which many recipes 
 have been given ; peel and slice the fruit ; heap it in a deep 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 479 
 
 earthen pie-dish, cover it thickly with sugar, and wet the 
 edges of the dish ; roll the pastry about a quarter of an inch 
 thick, cover the pie with it, being careful not to press the 
 edges of the pastry ; cut two or three little slits in the pas- 
 try, and then bake the pie for three-quarters of an hour in 
 a moderate oven, or until the" fruit is done. Sift powdered 
 sugar over the pie, and use it hot or cold. 
 
 BHUBARB-PIE, NEW-ENGLAND STYLE. 
 
 Make a good pastry, for which directions have already 
 been given. Peel some garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, and 
 cut it in small pieces ; after lining the pie-plates with pastry, 
 fill them with layers of rhubarb and sugar, and if a lemon is 
 available use the grated yellow rind for flavoring ; cover the 
 pie, wetting the edges of the pastry to make them adhere ; 
 make several cuts in the top crust, and bake the pie in a 
 moderate oven until both top and bottom crust are nicely 
 browned ; if the bottom of the pie cooks faster than the 
 top, put a second plate under it when it is quite brown ; if 
 the top browns before the bottom is done, cover it with 
 brown paper. Dust the top crust with powdered sugar after 
 the pie is done, and use it either hot or cold. 
 
 CHERRY-TART. 
 
 Make a pastry according to directions already given, or as 
 follows ; Lay half a pound of butter in a bowl of very cold 
 water, and work it for five minutes with the hands, touching 
 it very quickly and lightly, so that it may be quite smooth and 
 yet firm ; then wrap it in a cloth dusted with flour, lay it on 
 a plate, and place it in the refrigerator or in an equally cool 
 place. Put a pound of flour in a bowl with a level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, add to it the yolk of an egg, and sufficient 
 very cold water to mix it to a medium soft paste; work 
 quickly and very lightly, and then roll the paste out about 
 
480 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 as large as a dinner-plate; cut the butter in rather thick 
 slices, lay them irregularly about on the paste, dust it with 
 dry flour, and fold the paste in such a way as to enclose the 
 butter ; roll the paste out two or three times very quickly 
 and lightly, and then use it at once, or, if it is to be kept 
 any time, wrap it in a floured cloth, lay it on a plate, and 
 set in. a refrigerator or a very cold place. Stem and stone 
 plenty of cherries. Use rather deep pie-plates or earthen 
 dishes ; line them down the sides with strips of pastry, or 
 use an under-crust, as is preferred. Be very careful not to 
 press the cut edges of the pastry ; heap the fruit high in the 
 
 Large Fruit Tart. 
 
 dishes, and sprinkle over it sufficient sugar to sweeten it ; 
 lay a top crust lightly on the fruit, as shown in the accom- 
 panying picture, after slightly wetting the under crust near 
 the edge, to make it adhere, still without crushing down or 
 pressing the edges of the crust, because that would make it 
 heavy and sodden ; about half an inch within the edge of 
 the upper crust lay the forefinger, curved in such a way as 
 to form a groove by slightly pressing it down ; cut four or 
 five places diagonally across the groove, so that the fruit- 
 juice may boil out into the groove, instead cf escaping from 
 the dish ; remember to touch the crust always lightly and 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 481 
 
 delicately, so that it may be tender and crisp; brush the 
 crust with beaten egg, and then bake the pie in a rather hot 
 oven until nicely browned. Use it either hot, or let it cool, 
 and then dust it with powdered sugar. Whipped cream, for 
 which a recipe is given elsewhere, is very good with this, as 
 with any fruit pie. 
 
 RASPBERR Y-PIE. 
 
 Made a pastry according to the directions already given, 
 and line a deep pie-plate with it j remove the stems from a 
 pint of raspberries and a pint of currants, and put them 
 into the pie-plate ; sprinkle a cupful of sugar over the fruit, 
 and then cover it with pastry, wetting the edges of the crusts 
 to make them adhere ; cut two or three slits in the upper 
 crust, brush it with beaten egg, and bake the jpie in a mod- 
 erate oven. When it is done, dust it with sugar. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY-TART. 
 
 Pick over a quart of green gooseberries, removing the 
 tops and stems ; wash them in cold water, and drain them. 
 
 Make a nice pastry, and line a deep earthen pie-dish 
 about an inch down the sides ; then put in the gooseberries, 
 mixed with half a cupful of seedless raisins, and a pound 
 of sugar ; cover the tart, wetting the edges of the pastry to 
 make them adhere ; press the finger, slightly curved, all 
 around the top of the tart, just inside the edge of the crust, 
 to form a groove ; in this groove make three or four cuts 
 with a small, sharp knife, and then bake the tart until the 
 crust is nicely browned. Serve it hot or cold, with plenty 
 of powdered sugar. 
 
 Whipped cream made as directed elsewhere is a delicious 
 accompaniment for gooseberry tart. 
 
 FOREST- CITY LEMON-PIE. 
 
 Make a good pastry, and line a deep plate with it. Mix 
 together the following named ingredients : the grated rind 
 
482 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and juice of two lemons, one cupful of raisins seeded and 
 chopped fine, half a cupful of cracker-dust, a Cupful of 
 boiling water, and a cupful and a half of sugar; stir all 
 these ingredients in a saucepan over the fife until they boil, 
 and then fill the plate with them ; put an upper crust on the 
 pie, wetting the edges to make it adhere ; brush the crust 
 with beaten egg, make two or three little cuts in it, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven until it is nicely browned. 
 
 SWEET-POTATO PIE, PHILADELPHIA STYLE. 
 
 Make a nice pastry according to directions already given, 
 and line earthen pie-plates with it. Boil, peel, and mash 
 sweet potatoes ; to each pint of potato-pulp add one quart 
 of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter melted, four eggs well 
 beaten, a level teaspoonful each of salt and ground cinna- 
 mon, and sugar enough to suit the taste ; put this mixture 
 into the pie-plates, and bake the pies light brown in a mod- 
 erate oven. Use them hot or cold. 
 
 SQUASH-PIE. 
 
 Peel a Hubbard squash, cut it in pieces about two inches 
 square, remove the seeds without taking away any of the 
 substance of the squash, and put it to steam in a colander 
 closely covered and set over a pot of boiling water ; or place 
 it in a porcelain-lined saucepan without water, and set it 
 over a gentle fire where it will soften slowly without burning, 
 stirring it occasionally to prevent burning ; or boil it until 
 tender, in sufficient water to cover it. 
 
 When the squash is tender, drain it until it is quite free 
 from water, and rub it through a seive or a fine colander 
 with a wooden spoon or a potato-masher. Mix one quart 
 of the squash so prepared with one quart of milk, four eggs 
 well beaten, one tablespoonful of mixed ground cinnamon, 
 mace, and ginger, one teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 483 
 
 sugar, and use it to fill two large pie-plates lined with a good 
 plain pastry. Do not cover the pies with pastry, but grate 
 a little nutmeg over the top, or sprinkle over them the 
 grated yellow rind of a lemon. 
 
 FTJMPKIN-PIE. 
 
 Prepare the pumpkin by boiling and mashing it as di- 
 rected for the preparation of squash for pies, and after that 
 finish it as follows : to a pint of mashed pumpkin add a pint 
 of milk, six eggs beaten smooth, quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 a tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 Or, to each pint of mashed pumpkin add a quart of milk, 
 six eggs beaten smooth, a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, a heaping tablespoonful of mixed ground spices, and 
 two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter melted by gentle heat. 
 
 PEACH TARTS. 
 
 Line patty-pans with puff-paste, as directed in the recipe 
 for pineapple tarts ; and when they are done, put half a 
 
 Dish of Fruit Tarts. 
 
 preserved peach in each one, with a little whipped cream, as 
 shown in the accompanying engraving. 
 
484 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PINEAPPLE TARTS. 
 
 Make a puff-paste according to the directions already 
 given. Remove the crown of a ripe pineapple, cut the 
 fruit in quarters, cut out the core, and grate the fruit down 
 to the rind; mix with the grated pineapple half its weight 
 of powdered sugar, and put it in a cool place for an hour, 
 together with the pastry ; then put the pineapple and sugar 
 over the iire in a porcelain kettle, and simmer them gently 
 until they are tender. While the pineapple is being cooked, 
 line some patty-pans with the pastry, and bake the tart-shells 
 so made; fill the tart-shells with the stewed pineapple; use 
 the tarts hot or cold. 
 
 BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Make the pastry according to the directions already given ; 
 cut it in squares large enough to fold over the apples ; peel 
 
 Apple and Pear Dumplings. 
 
 and core sound apples of medium size and tart flavor, put 
 one in the centre of each piece of pastry, fill the apples with 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 485 
 
 sugar and half a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and fold 
 the pastry up over each apple lightly, wetting the tips of 
 the corners and pressing them lightly together ; arrange the 
 dumplings in a baking-pan ; brush them with beaten egg, 
 and bake them for about half an hour, or until they are done, 
 in a moderate oven. Serve them hot or cold with powdered 
 sugar and cream, or with either of the sauces for which 
 recipes are given elsewhere. 
 
 Or, in covering the apple with pastry, enclose it in the 
 manner shown in the accompanying picture. 
 
 FEAR DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Make a good pastry, and cut it in pieces large enough to 
 enclose a medium-size pear ; peel the pears, leaving them 
 whole, and keeping the stem intact ; enclose them in pastry 
 as shown in the accompanying engraving, brush them with 
 beaten egg, and bake them in a moderate oven ; use the 
 dumplings hot or cold, with powdered sugar or sauce. 
 
 FRESH AFFLE FAN-DOWDY. 
 
 Butter a deep brown earthen pudding-dish ; peel and slice 
 apples enough to fill it ; for a two-quart dish, use a teaspoon- 
 ful eacK of powdered cinnamon and salt, half a pound of 
 brown sugar, half a pint of cider, or the same quantity 
 of water; mix the spice and sugar among the apples, and 
 pour the cider over them ; then make a plain pastry accord- 
 ing to directions already given ; put the pastry over the 
 apples, place the pan-dowdy in a moderate oven, and bake 
 it slowly for about three hours, taking care that the crust 
 does nnt burn. The pan-dowdy may be eaten either hot 
 or cold, with sugar, or sugar and cream. 
 
 DRIED AFFLE FAN-DOWDY. 
 
 Wash a quart of dried apples ; soak them over night in 
 cold water; the next day, stew them soft in the water 
 
486 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 in which they were soaked, with a cupful of brown sugar 
 and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon or cloves. Put the 
 stewed apples into a large earthen baking-dish, lay on them 
 a tablespoonful of butter, and cover them with half an inch 
 of pie-crust. Bake the pan-dowdy in a moderate oven io\ 
 about half an hour, or until the crust is done ; then breah. 
 the crust down into the apple with a spoon, and use the dish 
 hot or cold. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BREADS, FRITTERS AND GRIDDLE- 
 CAKES. 
 
 The variety of hot and cold breads is very great ; only 
 specimens of different kinds can be given here, for there are 
 enough to fill a large volume of American breads alone. 
 Many breakfast and luncheon breads are included in this 
 chapter. The dinner bread proper is a rather thick slice, 
 or square piece, of white bread laid upon the napkin. 
 French dinner bread is baked in a long roll so that there 
 shall be plenty of crust. Of the fried cakes, only the fritters 
 are suitable for dinners ; they are in place among the entrees, 
 but often take the place of dessert at informal family din- 
 ners. The waffles are special breakfast and supper cakes, 
 and the griddle-cakes are generally used at breakfast. 
 
 HOME-MADE BREAD. 
 
 These two bread recipes, like several others in this vol- 
 ume, are reproduced from the author's Baltimore Recipes, 
 because the formulas have stood the test of several years' 
 trial in the school of cookery. 
 
 Two methods are given, with personal preference for the 
 compressed-yeast bread, because it is the quickest, and best 
 preserves the nutriment of the flour. 
 
 To make yeast, boil two ounces of hops in two quarts of 
 water for half an hour ; strain the liquid, and cool it until it 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 487 
 
 is only lukewarm, then add half a pound of brown sugar, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pound of flour; let this 
 leaven ferment four days in a warm place, stirring it when- 
 ever it foams over the top of the jar in which it is placed ; 
 on the third day add to it three pounds of potatoes boiled 
 and mashed; on the fourth day strain and bottle it, and 
 keep it in a cool place. 
 
 To make bread, put seven pounds of flour in a deep 
 wooden bowl ; in the centre of it put a tablespoonful of salt, 
 a teaspoonful of sugar, a gill of yeast, and sufficient luke- 
 warm water to make a soft dough (about three pints) ; mix 
 these ingredients with the hands until they form a smooth, 
 shining dough ; if necessary, use a little extra flour, only 
 enough to facilitate the working of the dough; flour the 
 bowl on the bottom and sides, so that the bread will not 
 stick to it, cover it with a thick towel folded several times, 
 set it in a warm place protected from draughts, and let it 
 rise over "night. In the morning knead the dough fifteen 
 minutes, divide it into four loaves, put them into floured 
 baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and set them 
 in a warm place to rise twice their height ; when they are so 
 risen, prick them at the sides with a fork, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven until a knitting or trussing needle can be run 
 into them without being made sticky. Be sure that they are 
 well done, but do not let them burn. 
 
 COMPRESSED-YEAST BREAD. 
 
 When it is possible to obtain fresh compressed yeast, also 
 called German yeast, an excellent bread can be made in 
 about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the leavening or 
 " raising " the dough is advantageous, because less of the nu- 
 tritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the 
 long process. For two loaves of bread, use three pounds of 
 flour, about a quart of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and 
 
488 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 an ounce of fresh compressed yeast ; dissolve the yeast in a 
 pint of lukewarm water ; stir into it sufficient flour to make 
 a thick batter; cover the bowl containing the batter or 
 sponge with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place to 
 rise ; if properly covered and heated, it will rise to a light 
 foam in half an hour ; then stir into it the salt dissolved iii a 
 little warm water, add the rest of the flour, and sufficient 
 lukewarm water to make a dough stiff enough to knead ; 
 knead it five minutes, divide it into two loaves, put them 
 in floured baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and 
 set them in a warm place to rise twice their height ; then 
 bake them as directed in the preceding recipe. 
 
 In raising the sponge, be sure that the heat is not suffi- 
 cient to " scald " or harden it, as that will prevent fermenta- 
 tion ; therefore do not place it where the hand cannot be 
 held with comfort; keep it covered from draughts. If 
 when it is light it has become at all soured, as it sometimes 
 will in summer, stir into it, before adding the balance of the 
 flour, a saltspoonful of baking-soda dissolved in a very little 
 water. 
 
 The dough made for home-made bread can be baked as 
 raised biscuit by kneading in with it a little sugar and 
 melted butter, or it can be boiled in soups and stews as 
 raised dumplings. 
 
 To test the heat of the oven, follow the method of Jules 
 0008"^, the celebrated chef of the Paris Jockey Club : the 
 "moderate oven" temperature is that degree of heat which 
 will turn ordinary writing-paper dark yellow or buff", that is, 
 the color of kindling-wood; put a sheet of paper "in the 
 oven, and close the door ; if the paper blazes, the oven is too 
 hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat for ten minutes, 
 then again test it with more paper ; it may be necessary to 
 try the temperature several times, but the time thus used is 
 well spent. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 489 
 
 BREAKFAST ROLLS. 
 
 In the middle of the afternoon bake two large white pota- 
 toes, and mash them perfectly smooth before they cool ; add 
 to the mashed potato two tablespoonfuls of white sugar and 
 a cupful each of flour and lukewarm water, and beat the 
 mixture for five minutes, or until it foams ; meantime dis- 
 solve half a small cake of compressed yeast in a gill of luke- 
 warm water, and add it to the sponge when it foams, or use 
 instead a gill of home-made yeast ; cover the bowl contain- 
 ing the sponge with a thick towel folded several times, and 
 set it where no draught of air can strike it. Just before bed- 
 time put the sponge into a bread mixing-bowl with four 
 quarts of sifted flour, a level tablespoonful of salt, a small 
 cupful of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of lard or butter 
 chopped or rubbed into the flour; add enough lukewarm 
 water to make a dough stiff" enough to knead, and knead 
 it for half an hour, using flour enough to prevent the dough 
 sticking to the hands or the board. When the dough is 
 smooth and shining, put it into a buttered bowl or pan 
 large enough for it to double its volume in rising; butter 
 the top of the dough, cover the bowl with a folded towel, 
 and set it in a place free from draughts in summer, and in 
 cold weather near enough to the fire to prevent any chill- 
 ing of the dough. Two hours before breakfast the next 
 morning, knead the dough again for five minutes ; form 
 some of it in little rolls, and the rest in loaves ; put them 
 in buttered baking-pans, brush the surfaces with milk or a 
 little butter, cover them with a folded towel, put the pans 
 where they will be shielded from draughts, and where the 
 temperature will be about 98° F. ; let them rise until they 
 are double their size, and then bake them ; the rolls will 
 be all the better if there is time for them to rise to more 
 than twice the original size before they are put into the 
 
490 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 oven, because the heat penetrates them so quickly that 
 there is very little chance for the expansion to continue; 
 the larger volume of loaves of dough excludes the heat 
 longer, and they rise after they are put into the oven ; the 
 rolls should be put into a hot oven, and baked for about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes ; less heat is required for baking 
 bread, and before the loaf is taken from the oven a sharp 
 small knife or a bright steel needle should be run irito the 
 middle of the loaf, to make sure that it is thoroughly 
 cooked ; if there is the slightest particle of moisture on the 
 steel when it is withdrawn from the bread, the baking should 
 be continued. 
 
 POTATO ROLLS. 
 
 Use a pint of mashed potato mixed with a pint of luke- 
 warm milk in which quarter of a pound of lard or butter has 
 been melted ; dissolve also in the milk half an ounce of 
 compressed yeast and a teaspoonful of salt ; add to these 
 ingredients enough flour to make a batter thick enough to 
 hold foi; a moment a drop let fall from the mixing-spoon ; 
 cover this batter in an earthen bowl to prevent chiUing by 
 draughts, and place it in a moderately warm place until it is 
 light and foaming; the length of time required for rising 
 will depend upon the temperature of the room ; if the heat 
 is too great, the fermentation cannot take place properly, 
 and the rising will be checked ; the bowl, therefore, should 
 not be put where the hand cannot be borne with comfort, 
 for the heat will be too great. When the sponge is light, 
 mix with it enough more flour to make the dough stiff 
 enough to knead without sticking to the hands or the pastry- 
 board ; knead the dough for five minutes, roll it out about 
 half an inch thick, cut it out in rounds with the biscuit-cut- 
 ter, lay two together and put them upon a buttered baking- 
 pan, cover again with a folded towel, and let them rise again 
 to twice their height ; when the rolls are light, brush them 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 4^1 
 
 with melted butter, and bake them in a moderate oven for 
 about twenty minutes, or until they are done, then serve 
 them hot. 
 
 Mashed sweet potatoes may be similarly used. 
 
 PARKEB-HOUSE ROLLS. 
 
 Put two quarts of flour into a deep bowl or pan ; make a 
 hollow in the middle of the flour, and put in the following 
 ingredients without mixing them, and in the order in which 
 they are named : one tablespoonful of sugar, one of butter 
 broken in small pieces, one pint of cold scalded milk, and 
 half a pint of yeast ; cover the pan with a folded towel, and 
 place it in a cool part of the kitchen ; this being done in the 
 evening, the dough will be risen in the morning ; then add 
 to it a level teaspoonful of salt dissolved in a little warm 
 water, mix all the ingredients, knead the dough for fifteen 
 minutes, then return it to the pan, cover it with the cloth, 
 and let it rise again for six hours; then again knead the 
 dough for two or three minutes, roll it out evenly about half 
 an inch thick, and cut it with a smooth biscuit-cutter ; put a 
 small piece of butter on one side of each round of dough, 
 and double them ; put the rolls in a buttered baking-pan, 
 cover them with a folded cloth, set the pan in a moderately 
 warm place, and let the rolls rise for half an hour ; then 
 bake them in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes, and 
 serve them hot. 
 
 ASTOR-HOUSE ROLLS. 
 
 Put two quarts of sifted flour into a deep bowl, make a 
 hollow in the centre, and put into it the following ingredi- 
 ents : a pint of lukewarm milk with a tablespoonful of but- 
 ter dissolved in it, a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful 
 of sugar, and two gills of yeast ; with the hand mix with 
 these ingredients enough of the flour to form a smooth thin 
 batter ; cover the bowl with a folded cloth, and put it in a 
 
492 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 warm place untH the batter is light and foamy ; then mix in 
 the rest of the flour, knead the dough for five minutes, cover 
 it again, and let it stand until it is twice its original size ; 
 when the dough is light, roll and shape it, and bake the rolls 
 as directed in the recipe for Parker-House rolls. 
 
 BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. 
 
 Sift together a quart of flour, a level teaspoonful of salt, 
 and two heaping teaspoonfuls of any good baking-powder ; 
 see that the oven is of the proper temperature, as indicated 
 in the recipe for compressed-yeast bread, and butter the 
 baking-pan ; rub or chop two tablespoonfuls of lard or but- 
 ter into the flour ; quickly mix it to as soft a dough as can 
 be easily rolled out, with about a pint of cold water ; roll 
 out the dough on a floured pastry-board, cut out the biscuit 
 with a floured biscuit-cutter, and lay them in the buttered 
 baking-pan ; brush the biscuit with milk, or a teaspoonful 
 of sugar dissolved in a little cold water, and bake them as 
 directed in the preceding recipes. 
 
 BUTTERMILK BISCUIT. 
 
 Sift a quart of flour with a heaping teaspoonful of soda, 
 and a level teaspoonful of salt ; rub into the flour a heaping 
 teaspoonful of lard ; butter or flour a baking-pan, and see 
 that the oven is quite hot ; then quickly mix with the pre- 
 pared flour a pint of buttermilk, shape the biscuit, and bake 
 them in a hot oven. 
 
 BEATEN BISCUIT. 
 
 Rub a tablespoonful each of Gutter and lard in a quart of 
 sifted flour, add a level teaspoonful of salt, and then with 
 the hands mix in sufficient milk to form a rather stiff dough ; 
 flour the moulding-board, put the dough on it, flour the roller, 
 and beat the dough out flat with it ; fold it repeatedly, and 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 493 
 
 beat it flat again until it blisters and cracks ; when the Kttle 
 bhsters or air-bubbles are abundant, which will be in about 
 a half-hour, tear off pieces of the dough as large as an egg, 
 mould them in the hands to the size of a small biscuit, prick 
 each one on top with a fork, place them in buttered or 
 floured baking-pans, and bake light brown in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 RAISED BISCUIT. 
 
 Heat a pint of milk to melt a heaping tablespoonful of 
 butter, and then cool it until it is lukewarm ; beat an egg 
 smoothly, add to it a level teaspoonful of salt, a gill of good 
 yeast, a quart of flour, and the lukewarm milk ; cover the 
 bowl or pan containing this sponge with a folded towel, and 
 let it stand over night in a place warm enough to insure its 
 rising properly ; the next morning knead the dough gently 
 for five minutes, using enough flour to prevent its sticking to 
 the hands ; make it up in small biscuit, put them into a but- 
 tered baking-pan, cover them with a folded towel, and put 
 the pan in a warm place for half an hour, or until the biscuit 
 have swollen to twice their original size ; do not put the pan 
 where it is too hot to hold the hand ; when the biscuit are 
 light, brush them over the surface with a little sugar dissolved 
 in milk, or with melted butter, and then bake them brown 
 in a quick oven, and serve them hot. 
 
 GRAHAM GEMS AND BISCUIT. 
 
 Mix a quart of Graham flour to a thick batter with cold 
 water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and beat the batter until it 
 is full of air-bubbles, then bake it at once in buttered gem- 
 pans. The operation must be very quickly accompUshed to 
 be successful. 
 
 Graham biscuit are made like wheat biscuit, substituting 
 Graham for wheat flour. 
 
494 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 RAISED GRAHAM BISCUIT. 
 
 In the evening mix together one cupful of wheat flour, 
 three cupfuls of Graham flour, three ^ablespoonfuls each of 
 yeast and molasses, and two cupfuls of warm water ; cover 
 the sponge with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place 
 to rise over night. The next morning put the sponge into 
 small buttered tins, or use just enough flour to make it up 
 into biscuit, which lay in a buttered baking-pan, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. 
 
 HUCKLEBERRY BISCUIT. 
 
 Pick over a quart of berries, and roll them in dry flour ; 
 see that the oven is hot, and butter a dripping-pan ; sift to- 
 gether one quart of flour and two teaspoonfuls each of salt 
 and baking-powder ; rub a quarter of a pound of butter into 
 the flour in rather large flakes ; then put in the berries, and 
 quickly stir in enough milk to form a soft dough ; drop the 
 dough on the buttered pan with a tablespoon wet in cold 
 milk, and put the biscuit at once into the oven ; bake from 
 fifteen to twenty-five minutes, until the biscuit are done. 
 Serve the biscuit hot, with plenty of butter. 
 
 SOUR-CREAM BISCUIT. 
 
 Sift together a quart of flour, a level teaspoonful of salt 
 and two of baking-soda ; butter or flour a pan, and see that 
 the oven is hot ; then quickly mix with the flour a cupful 
 each of buttermilk and sour cream; shape the biscuit 
 quickly, and bake them at once in a hot oven. 
 
 Sour milk may be used instead of the cream. 
 
 SHORTCAKES. 
 
 Make the dough for the shortcakes as directed for bak- 
 ing-powder biscuit, using milk instead of water for mixing 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 495 
 
 the dough, if it is preferred. When the dough is mixed, 
 bake it on two buttered tin plates. Have ready whatever 
 fruit, fresh or canned, is to be used for the shortcakes, and 
 some powdered sugar; spHt the shortcakes, butter them, 
 lay the fruit upon the inner side, and then lay the two sides 
 of each cake one upon the other, and serve the shortcakes. 
 If the fruit is acid, use the powdered sugar liberally. Fresh 
 or canned berries, peaches, pears, apricots, or plums make 
 gobd shortcakes ; when canned fruit is used, its sirup can. 
 be sweetened for a sauce, or the shortcakes can be served 
 with cream. 
 
 RAISKD SHORTCAKE. 
 
 Put in a large earthen bowl three cupfuls of light bread- 
 dough, made as directed in either of the recipes for home- 
 made bread ; add to the dough three raw eggs beaten for 
 two minutes, with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and three 
 tablespoonfuls of butter softened with a gentle heat before 
 mixing them with the eggs and. sugar ; knead all of these 
 ingredients together with the hand until the dough is soft 
 and smooth; then put it into buttered baking-pans, cover 
 the pans with a folded towel, and set them near the stove 
 where a gentle heat will strike them, to rise for fifteen min- 
 utes ; then bake the shortcakes in a moderate oven until a 
 sharp small knife or fork thrust into the shortcakes does 
 not show any sign of moisture. When the shortcakes are 
 baked, tear them open, first breaking the edges apart with a 
 fork, butter them, put fruit or preserves over them, with 
 sugar to taste, and serve them either hot or cold. 
 
 BGG CORN-BREAD. 
 
 Chop a quarter of a pound of butter with one quart of 
 Indian meal, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and the 
 yolks of four eggs, and stir in gradually a quart of cold 
 milk; beat the mixture until it forms a smooth batter; 
 
496 PRACTICAL AMERICAN QOOKERY. 
 
 butter the pan in which the bread is to be baked ; beat the 
 whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, stir them into the batter 
 Hghtly and quickly, put it into the buttered pan, and bake 
 the bre^d in a moderate oven for half an hour, or until a 
 broom-straw run into the thickest part of the loaf can be 
 withdrawn clean. The bread can be used either hot or 
 cold. The same batter can be baked in smaller buttered 
 pans or in buttered earthen cups. 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND CORN-BREAD. 
 
 Sift together one cupful of Indian meal, half a cupful 
 of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder; mix with these ingredients half a cupful 
 each of butter and flour beaten to a cream, four eggs beaten 
 for two minutes, and one pint of milk ; put the bread into an 
 iron pan well buttered, and bake it for about twenty minutes, 
 or until it is nicely browned ; then serve it hot at once. 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND BROWN-BREAD. 
 
 / Sift together two cupfuls each of rye and Indian meal ; 
 add a teaspoonful of salt, two-thirds of a cupful each of 
 molasses and boiled squash, and two teaspoonfuls of soda 
 dissolved in a very little cold water; last of all, mix in 
 enough sour milk to make a batter thin enough to pour ; 
 put the batter into a buttered tin pan or mould, and steam 
 it for three hours ; then bake it for two hours longer. 
 
 GRAHAM AND INDIAN BREAD. 
 
 Sift together one pint each of Indian meal and Graham 
 flour, and a heaping teaspoonful of salt ; mix with them a 
 pint of sour milk and a scant half-pint of molasses in which 
 a heaping teaspoonful of saleratus is dissolved; when all 
 these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, pour them into a 
 buttered brown-bread mould, or a buttered tin pail, which 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. i,(^'J 
 
 can be tightly covered, and steam the bread for two hours ; 
 the mould or pail, closely covered, may be set in a covered 
 saucepan containing enough boiling water to reach two- 
 thirds up the sides of the tin, if a regular steamer is not 
 available ; after the bread has been steamed for two hours, 
 remove the cover from the mould, and bake the bread in a 
 hot oven until a crust is formed ; use it either hot or cold. 
 
 RAISED GRAHAM BREAD. 
 
 Sift together one pint of wheat flour, one quart of Graham 
 flour, and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; add to them half a 
 cupful each of molasses and liquid yeast, or an ounce of 
 compressed yeast dissolved in half a cupful of warm water ; 
 then stir in enough warm water or milk to make a batter 
 thick enough to hold a drop let fall from the mixing-spoon, 
 and cover the bowl containing this sponge with a folded 
 towel, keeping it in a moderately warm place until it is 
 light and foaming ; when the sponge is quite light, stir in as 
 much more Graham flour as can be readily mixed in with a 
 spoon, and put the dough into well-buttered baking-pans ; 
 cover the pans with a folded towel, put them where the 
 dough will be kept warm, — in some place not too hot to 
 rest the hand for a minute without burning it, — and let 
 them stand until the dough has risen to double its original 
 volume ; then put the bread into a moderate oven, and bake 
 it for an hour and a half, taking care that it does not burn. 
 
 RAISED SWEET-POTATO BREAD. 
 
 Boil, peel, and mash sweet potatoes enough to yield a 
 quart of pulp after they are mashed ; to a quart of mashed 
 sweet potatoes add a pint of milk in which has been dis- 
 solved half an ounce of compressed yeast, and two tea- 
 spoonfuls each of salt and sugar, together with a pint of 
 boiling water, and just enough flour to make a thick batter ; 
 
498 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 put this batter in a warni place near the fire to rise until it 
 is double its first quantity, keeping it covered with a thick 
 towel folded several times. When the batter has risen to 
 twice its original bulk, mix with it enough more flour to 
 make a soft dough ; knead it for five minutes, then put it 
 into three buttered iron pans, filling each half full, and 
 again cover it, and let it rise to double its size ; then bake 
 the loaves in a moderate oven until they are quite done. 
 Use the bread hot or cold. 
 
 SWEET-POTATO PONE. 
 
 Peel and grate sweet potatoes enough to fill a quart bowl, 
 working very quickly, so that they may not become dis- 
 colored ; mix with the grated potato half a pint of sweet 
 milk, three tablespoonfuls of powdered ginger, and half a 
 pound of butter beaten to a cream with half a pound of 
 sugar ; if oranges are in season, add the grated rind and 
 juice of one ; pour the batter thus made into a buttered 
 pan, and bake the pone in a moderate oven for about an 
 hour, or until the potato is quite done. 
 
 WHEAT MUFFINS. 
 
 Butter a dozen earthen cups, and arrange them in a drip- 
 ping-pan. Mix to a smooth batter two cupfuls of flour and 
 three of milk ; beat four eggs to a light froth ; then beat the 
 eggs with the batter, and half fill the cups with it ; bake 
 them at once in a very hot oven for about twenty minutes, 
 or until they are nicely browned all over. Serve the muffins 
 hot. 
 
 RAISED MUFFINS. 
 
 For one quart of flour use half a gill of Uquid yeast, or 
 half a small cake of compressed yeast dissolved in half a 
 cupful of lukewarm water ; mix with the flour a teaspoonful 
 of salt, the yeast, and cold water enough to make a soft 
 dough ; mix the water, yeast, and flour with the hands ; and 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 499 
 
 when the dough is as soft as it can be handled, cover the 
 bowl containing it with a folded towel, set it in a moderately 
 warm room, and let it rise over night. The next morning 
 heat a griddle moderately hot, — that is, just hot enough to 
 color dry flour, which must be sifted on it ; then beat the 
 white of an egg to a stiff froth, beat it with the dough, and 
 at once bake the muffins on the floured griddle in large tin 
 rings, slightly buttered. These muffins are used hot for 
 breakfast, or toasted on the outside for supper. 
 
 RY^E MUFFINS. 
 
 Sift together one pint of rye meal, one pint of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
 one tablespoonful of sugar ; melt one tablespoonful of butter, 
 and add it to these ingredients ; next beat two eggs for two 
 minutes, and add them, together with a scant pint of milk, 
 using just enough milk to make a batter stiff" enough to hold 
 a drop from the mixing-spoon. Put the batter into but- 
 tered muffin-rings set in a buttered baking-pan, and bake 
 them in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes, or until they 
 are well done. 
 
 POP-OVERS. 
 
 Mix to a smooth batter two cups each of flour and milk, 
 two raw yolks of egg, and a level teaspoonful of salt ; butter 
 six earthen cups, and place them in a pan in the oven to 
 heat ; see that the oven is hot ; last of all, beat the whites 
 of two eggs to a stiff froth, mix them quickly with the other 
 ingredients, put the batter at once into the hot buttered cups, 
 set them in a hot oven, and bake the pop-overs until they 
 rise well, and are brown at the sides where they part from 
 the cups. Serve the pop-overs as soon as they are baked. 
 By using maple-sirup, or a good sweet sauce, the pop-overs 
 may be served at the dessert. As a breakfast-dish they are 
 eaten with butter. 
 
SbO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 EGG-PUFFS. 
 Soften a tablespoonful of butter to a creamy consistency 
 by working it with a fork ; beat three eggs to a froth, and add 
 them to the butter ; add also a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
 six tablespoonfuls of flour; beat all these ingredients to- 
 gether until they foam, then put them into buttered earthen 
 cups or small tin pans, and bake them in a hot oven for 
 about half an hour, or until they are cooked through and 
 nicely browned. Serve them hot for breakfast or luncheon. 
 
 RAISED WAFFLES. 
 
 At night mix together one pint of lukewarm milk, in which 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter have been melted, two table- 
 spoonfuls of liquid yeast, or half a small cake of compressed 
 yeast dissolved in a gill of water, two eggs well beaten, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and a pound of flour ; when this batter 
 is thoroughly mixed, cover it, and keep it over night in a 
 warm place ; in the morning heat a waffle-iron, butter it, put 
 in the batter without stirring it down, and then bake the 
 waffles ; serve them with butter and powdered sugar. 
 
 SWEET-POTATO WAFFLES. 
 
 Mix to a smooth batter half a cupful of sweet potato 
 boiled and mashed, four tablespoonfuls of flour, one each of 
 butter and sugar, one saltspoonftil of salt, and a pint of milk ; 
 bake the batter at once in a hot waffle-iron. Or, if no iron 
 is available, the batter may be baked on a griddle, in the 
 form of cakes. 
 
 CORN WAFFLES. 
 
 Put in an earthen bowl a cupful and a half of corn-meal, 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful each of lard and 
 butter, and pour in a pint of boiling milk ; beat this mixture 
 smooth, let it cool until lukewarm, then add two eggs well 
 beaten, and bake the waffles at once in a hot buttered iron. 
 
SECOND-COURSh SWEETS. 50I 
 
 RICE WAFFLES. 
 
 Mix one pint of soft-boiled rice with one pint of milk over 
 the fire, stirring them until they are hot; then take them 
 from the fire, beat the yolks of four eggs smoothly with a 
 pint of cold milk, and add them to the rice, together with 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient flour to make a batter 
 just stiff enough to hold for an instant a drop from the mix- 
 ing-spoon. Then beat four whites to a stiff froth, stir them 
 lightly into the batter, and bake it at once in a hot buttered 
 wafile-iron. Serve the waffles hot, with powdered sugar 
 dusted over them. 
 
 RAISED RICE WAFFLES. 
 
 Following the method given in the recipe for raised waffles, 
 mix the following named ingredients at night, and bake in 
 the morning : One pint each of boiled rice and flour, two 
 beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of yeast or half a small cake 
 of compressed yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and two table- 
 spoonfuls of butter melted in a pint of warm milk. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES. 
 
 Have ready a pint of rice, bpiled quite soft ; sift together 
 a pint of flour, and one teaspoonful each of baking-powder 
 and salt ; beat three eggs, and mix them with a pint of milk ; 
 before putting these ingredients together, see that the griddle 
 is hot ; then mix the pancakes, and begin to bake them at 
 once ; if the first ones seem too stiff, add a little more milk 
 to the pancake batter j serve the pancakes hot, as fast as 
 they are baked. 
 
 FRIED RICE. 
 
 Boil the rice as directed in the recipe for boiled rice, and 
 cool it in a dish ; when it is cold turn it from the dish, cut it 
 in slices nearly an inch thick, season the slices with pepper 
 
502 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 and salt, and roll them in Indian meal ; have ready a frying- 
 kettle half full of smoking-hot fat, and fry the slices of rice 
 in it until they are golden brown ; when the rice is done, 
 take it from the fat with a skimmer, put it on brown paper 
 for a moment to free it from grease, and then serve it hot. 
 
 FRIED BREAD. 
 
 Have ready over the fire a frying-kettle half full , of fat ; 
 cut slices of bread about half an inch thick in squares, tri- 
 angles, or heart-shaped pieces, and when the fat is smoking 
 hot put in the bread and fry it golden brown ; take it from 
 the fat with a skimmer when it is brown, lay it on brown 
 paper to free it from grease, and then use it for garnishing. 
 
 Fry small dice of bread in this way to serve in soups. 
 
 FRITTER BATTER. 
 
 To make a batter which can be used for any fritters, put a 
 cupful of flour into a bowl with the yolk of a raw egg, a level 
 teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of good olive-oil ; 
 mix these ingredients smoothly together, then gradually stir 
 in enough water to make a batter thick enough to hold a 
 drop let fall from the mixing-spoon ; beat the white of the 
 egg to a stiff froth, mix it lightly with the batter. 
 
 ORANGE FRITTERS. 
 
 Peel and slice two or three oranges about a quarter of an 
 inch thick, and remove the seeds, taking care not to break 
 the slices or squeeze out the juice ; put a frying-kettle over 
 the fire, with enough fat to half fill it, and let the fat get 
 smoking hot. 
 
 Put two or three sUces of oranges in the batter, and when 
 the fat begins to smoke Hft them from the batter with a fork, 
 drop them into the hot fat, and fry them golden brown; 
 take the fritters out of the fat with a skimmer^ lay them for a 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 503 
 
 moment on brown paper to free them from grease, and then 
 dust them with powdered sugar, and serve them hot. 
 
 PINEAPPLB FRITTERS. 
 
 Pare and grate a ripe pineapple, saving all the juice ; put 
 with the grated fruit and juice two cupfuls of flour, the-yolk 
 of a raw egg, a saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of melted 
 butter, and sufficient cold water to make a batter thick 
 enough to sustain a drop from the mixing-spoon for a 
 moment upon its surface. Have ready over the fire a frying- 
 kettle half full of fat, and when it begins to smoke quickly 
 beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, stir it into the bat- 
 ter, drop the batter by the tablespoonful into the hot fat, and 
 fry the fritters until they are golden brown ; then take them 
 from the hot fat with a skimmer, and lay them for a moment 
 on brown paper to free them from grease ; then arrange them 
 neatly on a china dish, dust them with powdered sugar, and 
 serve them. 
 
 If the pineapple-fritters are prepared large, the fruit may 
 be sliced thin, dipped in a batter made as directed above, 
 and then fried and served in the same way. 
 
 Preserved pineapple may be used for fritters and tarts. 
 
 OLD-FASHIONED DOUGHNUTS. 
 
 Beat three eggs in a large bowl for five minutes ; stir into 
 them one cupful of granulated sugar, one level teaspoonful 
 of salt, one pint of sweet milk, and one-third of a nutmeg 
 grated; sift together three times two cupfuls of flour and 
 one level teaspoonful each of cream of tartar and saleratus ; 
 stir the flour quickly into the ingredients already mixed in 
 the bowl. Just flour enough is required to make a dough 
 only stiff enough to handle. If more than two cupfuls are 
 needed, stir it into the dough, but remember to make it only 
 stiff enough to roll out. Handle the dough very quickly and 
 
504 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 lightly, and as little as possible. As soon as it is mixed, turn 
 it from the bowl on a floured pastry-hoard ; dust a little flour 
 over it ; roll it out half an inch thick ; cut it in rounds with 
 a biscuit-cutter, or a thin cup or glass dipped in flour, and 
 cut a small ball from the middle of each round with a small 
 tin cutter or the top of a pepper-box dipped in flour. Have 
 ready a frying-kettle half full of smoking-hot fat ; put into 
 it as many doughnuts as will float without pressing against 
 each other, and fry them light brown ; take them out of the 
 fat with a skimmer, letting the fat drain from them. When 
 all are fried, roll them in powdered sugar, and use them either 
 hot or cold. 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND FRIED-CAKES. 
 
 In the morning, when home-made bread is being made, 
 put about a pint bowlful of the light bread-dough on a 
 floured pastry-board, and roll it out half an inch thick ; use 
 a sharp knife, dipped in flour, to "cut it in rather long 
 diamond-shaped pieces ; throw a towel over the pieces, and 
 let? them stand near the stove to rise while the frying-kettle, 
 half full of fat, is being heated. When the fat smokes, fry 
 the bread-cakes as directed in the recipe for old-fashioned 
 doughnuts, and serve them with sirup or molasses for break- 
 fast 
 
 WHOBTLEBERRY FRIED-CAKES. 
 
 Sift a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder and a salt- 
 spoonful of salt with two cupfuls of flour. Carefully pick 
 over one quart of whortleberries. Beat three eggs for fiVe 
 minutes ; stir into the beaten eggs two cupfuls of sugar and 
 one pint of milk ; then add the berries and the flour, mixing 
 all the ingredients lightly and quickly. The mixture should 
 form a stiff" batter ; if more flour is needed, add it. Fry the 
 cakes by the tablespoonful in smoking-hot fat, as directed in 
 the recipe for old-fashioned doughnuts; or fry them in a 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 505 
 
 hot frying-pan, with just enough fat to prevent sticking to 
 the pan. Use them buttered for tea or luncheon. 
 
 CRULLERS WITH EGGS. 
 
 Beat a quarter of a pound each of butter and sugar to a 
 cream ;. mix with them the beaten yolks of three eggs ; then 
 quickly beat in twelve ounces, or three-quarters of a pound, 
 of flour, a saltsp.oonful each of powdered cinnamon and 
 
 Pastry-Wheel. 
 
 grated nutmeg, and enough cold milk to form a stiff paste ; 
 last, beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, stir them 
 quickly and lightly into the cruller paste, roll it out half an 
 inch thick, and then cut out the crullers with the wheel 
 
506 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 shown in the first engraving, making the crullers in different 
 shapes, of which a number are given in the second picture. 
 
 Crullers Cut uiith Pastry Wheel. 
 
 After the crullers are cut out, put them into plenty of smok- 
 ing-hot fat to fry brown, as directed in the recipes for dough- 
 nuts. Use them either hot or cold. 
 
 CRULLERS WITH BAKING-POWDER. 
 
 Sift together one quart of flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls 
 of any good baking-powder, a level teaspoonful of salt, and 
 a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg; beat a tablespoonful of 
 butter and a cupful of sugar to a cream ; add to them one 
 egg, and then quickly stir in the flour, and enough cold milk 
 to make a paste stiff enough to roll out ; cut the crullers in 
 any shape preferred, and fry them in plenty of smqking-hot 
 fat, as directed in the recipe for dpughnuts ; after they are 
 fried, sift a little sugar over them. 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 507 
 
 FAN-DODDLES. 
 
 Sift together three cupfuls each of rye and Indian meal, 
 a teaspoonfiil of salt, and a level saltspoonful of powdered 
 allspice ; stir into the meal after it is sifted one egg, three 
 tablespoonfuls of molasses, and enough cold milk to make a 
 soft dough which will drop easily from the mixijig-spoon ; 
 do not use enough milk to make a batter, for that would not 
 keep the shape in frying; have ready a frying-kettle half full 
 of smoking-hot fat, and put the dough into the fat by the 
 tablespoonful. Let the pan-doddles fry brown, like dough- 
 nuts, then take them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them 
 on brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, and 
 serve them hot for breakfast or supper. 
 
 INDIAN SLAP-JACKS. 
 
 Pour over a pint of Indian meal enough hot milk to 
 moisten it, and let it stand until it is cool ; then add a level 
 teaspoonful of salt, two eggs beaten to a froth,_ and sufficient 
 cold milk to make a batter thick enough to keep its form 
 on the griddle or frying-pan used for frying the slap-jacks ; 
 newly-fallen snow may be substituted for eggs, a tablespoon- 
 ful for an egg ; or in camp, where neither milk nor eggs are 
 available, the same process may be followed by using water, 
 and beating the batter steadily until enough air is beaten 
 into it to make it foamy ; it must be baked directly, or the 
 air will escape, and the slap-jacks will be heavy. A well-kept 
 soap-stone griddle does not need to be greased, but an ordi- 
 nary pan does ; use either butter, lard, or a piece of raw fat 
 salt pork, to grease the pan ; be careful that it is not hot 
 enough to bum the cakes ; put the batter on the pan by the 
 large spoonful, and when the upper part of the slap-jack is 
 full of holes and the under part brown, turn it ; use with the 
 slag-jacks sugar, molasses, butter, or salt-pork drippings. 
 
5P8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 ARMY SLAP-JACKS. 
 
 Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of salt in a pint of cold water ; 
 mix the water smoothly with a tablespoonful of flour, and 
 beat the mixture until it foams ; then mix into it enough 
 flour to make a rather thin batter, like that prepared for 
 buckwheat cakes. Fry the slap-jacks in a hot frying-pan, 
 rubbed with a piece of raw fat salt pork or with a small 
 piece of butter tied in a bit of clean cloth. If the frying- 
 pan is not smooth, the cakes will stick to it ; therefore clean 
 it by washing and wiping it thoroughly, and then rubbing it 
 hard with dry salt. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
 
 Sift together a quart of buckwheat flour, a teaspoonful of 
 salt and two of baking-powder ; mix in enough milk or cold 
 water to form a thick batter, and bake the cakes on a hot 
 griddle as directed in the recipe for Indian slap-jacks. 
 
 RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
 
 Mix the following ingredients to a smooth batter at night : 
 one quart of buckwheat flour, one gill each of liquid yeast 
 and molasses, a teaspoonful of salt, and enough lukewarm 
 water to make a thick batter ; put the batter into an earthen 
 jar or pitcher, cover it with a folded towel, and let it stand 
 in a warm place over night ; the next morning, fry the cakes 
 as directed in the recipe for Indian slap-jacks. If the bat- 
 ter is at all sour, stir into it a saltspoonful of baking-soda 
 dissolved in a little warm water before cooking the cakes. 
 
 INDIAN GRIDDLE- CAKES. 
 
 Sift together one quart of yellow Indian meal, two heaping 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, and one teaspoonful of salt; melt 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter in a pint and a half of milk 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 509 
 
 over the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted stir in 
 the meal gradually ; after the meal has been stirred into the 
 milk, let the mixture cool ; when this batter is cold, beat four 
 eggs to a froth, and then beat them into the batter, which 
 should then be about the consistency of buckwheat-cake 
 batter ; have ready on the fire a hot griddle, slightly buttered 
 or greased with fat salt pork, to prevent burning, and fry the 
 cakes quickly; serve them hot, with butter and honey or 
 molasses. 
 
 SPIDER-CAKE. 
 
 Sift a quart of flour with a teaspoonful each of salt and 
 baking-soda, and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar; or, 
 in place of the soda and cream of tartar, use two heaping 
 teaspoonfuls of any good baking-powder ; chop a quarter 
 of a pound of good butter into the flour, and then quickly 
 make it into a dough stiff enough to mould with about a 
 pint of milk or cold water ; if sour milk is used, the baking- 
 powder or cream of tartar should be omitted, and a heaping 
 teaspoonful of baking-soda dissolved in the sour milk ; have 
 ready two old-fashioned iron spiders, or a large griddle, well 
 buttered and placed over the fire ; make the dough into two 
 round cakes, put it in the buttered pans, and slowly brown 
 the under side over a moderate fire ; the spider-cake must 
 be frequently lifted from the pan with a cake-turner or a 
 broad-bladed knife to prevent burning, and butter enough 
 must be used to keep it from sticking to the pan ; when the 
 under side is browned, turn the cake, and brown the other 
 side ; when the cake is done, split it, butter it, lay it together 
 again, cut it in quarters, and serve it hot. 
 
 HUCKLEBERRY SPIDER-CAKE. 
 
 Pick over a quart of huckleberries, wash them in cold 
 water, drain them quite dry, and dust them with flour ; sift 
 together one pound of flour, one teaspoonful of salt and 
 
SIO PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 two of baking-powder ; into the flour chop a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, and add the berries ; see that the fire is 
 good, and put an iron spider over it, with a tablespoonful 
 of butter in it; next mix the flour and berries to a sofi. 
 dough, with just enough sweet milk to form it; put tht 
 dough into the spider, making the cake about three-quarters 
 of an inch thick, and set over a moderate fire to bake ; 
 unless the spider is large, a second one must be used, in 
 order to have the cake the proper thickness ; bake the 
 spider-cake slowly for about ten minutes on each side, shak- 
 ing it about in the pan, and turning it, to prevent burning ; 
 before serving it, try it to be sure it is done, and then serve 
 it hot with plenty of butter. 
 
 SPIDER-CAKE TOAST. 
 
 Toast cold spider-cake delicately brown ; while the cake 
 is being toasted, make a sauce as follows : For each cake 
 allow a full pint of sauce ; for each pint of sauce mix to- 
 gether over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and flour 
 until they bubble ; then mix smoothly into them a pint of 
 milk and half a pint of cream ; let this sauce boil for a 
 moment, season it palatably with salt, and then pour it over 
 the toasted spider-cake, and serve it at once. 
 
 BUTTER TOAST. 
 
 Allow a tablespoonful of butter for each slice of bread ; 
 melt the butter by very gentle heat ; toast the bread to an 
 even light-brown color, lay it in a chafing-dish, or in a thin 
 china dish set in a larger dish containing hot water, and 
 pour the melted butter over it. Serve it hot as soon as it 
 is made. 
 
 MILK TOAST. 
 
 Toast slices of stale bread to a delicate brown color ; 
 meantime heat to the boiling-point sufficient milk to satu- 
 
SECOND-COURSE SWEETS. 511 
 
 rate the toast, adding two tablespoonfuls of butter to each 
 pint of milk ; when the milk boils, pour it over the toast, and 
 serve it hot at once. 
 
 The boiling milk is sometimes thickened with a little flour 
 or corn-starch. 
 
 WATER TOAST. 
 
 Make a dozen slices of toast ; have ready about three 
 tablespoonfuls of butter slightly warmed, and a dish of hot 
 water ; dip the slices of toast quickly into the hot water, 
 letting them remain in it only until they are moist ; lift them 
 out with a skimmer, draining off all superfluous water, lay 
 them on a hot dish, buttering each slice, and as soon as all 
 are dipped serve the toast hot. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 DESSERT (Dessert). 
 
 THE dessert proper consists of small cold sweets, frozen 
 puddings either in moulds or paper cases, nuts, confec- 
 tionery, black coffee, and candied fruits. Preserves, candied 
 fruits, and jellies are included in this chapter, because they 
 so often enter into the composition of dessert dishes. Many 
 of the frozen puddings can be prepared at home, and the 
 ices and creams also, if there is the proper freezing apparatus. 
 The forms illustrated are French, but any American substi- 
 tute will serve. The directions for making ices and creams 
 were first published about two years ago, in one of the 
 author's household series then appearing. They are good 
 enough to give permanency to here, for by following them 
 any careful person can produce at hohae some of the most 
 elaborate of the confectioners' sweets : the forms only will 
 differ, because confectioners have many very pretty individual 
 moulds that are not found in ordinary households. The 
 preparation of these novelties at home should always be 
 undertaken in ample tinie, so that at dinner-time there shall 
 be no difficulties to overcome at the last moments. 
 
 CREAM MERINGUES. 
 
 Have ready a large, thick board, which will go into the 
 oven, covered with glazed letter-paper; beat the whites of 
 six eggs to a stiff froth, and gently mix with them half a 
 512 
 
DESSERT. , 513 
 
 pound of pulverized sugar, taking care not to break down 
 the eggs ; work very quickly and lightly, and as soon as the 
 sugar is incorporated with the egg, heap the meringue so 
 made upon the paper, either in two large mounds or in an 
 even number of small ones, and push the board containing 
 them into a very slow oven, where the meringues will dry 
 out rather than bake ; if the oven is too hot, leave the door 
 open, and change the board frequently, so that the heat will 
 strike its contents evenly. When the meringues are light- 
 brown, cool them a little, take them off the paper, turn 
 them over on the hand, and, without breaking them, take 
 out the soft centre, and press the rest back upon the outside 
 with the bowl of a spoon to form a hollow shell ; dust the 
 inside with powdered sugar ; lay the shells, bottom upward, 
 on clean paper on the board, and place them in a cool oven 
 to dry out. Meantime, either prepare whipped cream to 
 fill them, or make an Italian cream as follows : — 
 
 ITALIAN CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce and a half of isinglass over the fire in 
 a gill of hot water, and keep it hot enough to remain liquid ; 
 prepare a pint of whipped cream according to the directions 
 given in the proper recipe ; put in a thick saucepan over the 
 fire a pint of cream, the yolks of eight raw eggs, a quarter 
 of a pound of macaroons, half a pound of powdered sugar, 
 and a wineglassful of cura(oa; stir these ingredients con- 
 stantly until they begin to thicken ; then take them off the 
 fire, and beat in the dissolved isinglass ; while the cream is 
 still liquid enough to run through a wire sieve, strain it ; 
 after straining it, very gently mix in the pint of whipped 
 cream; reserve enough of the Italian cream to fill the 
 meringues with, arid pour the rest into a mould to be cooled 
 and iced; serve the cold Italian cream with a border of 
 whipped cream. 
 
SH 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CANNELONS WITH CBEAM. 
 
 Cut pufT-paste in strips about an inch wide, and roll it 
 around a floured stick, as shown in the first picture of the 
 
 Uncooked Cannelons. 
 
 cannelons ; several are so formed, and then baked upon the 
 sticks ; after the cannelons are a little cool, the sticks can 
 be slipped out, and the centres filled with whipped cream, 
 
 Cannelons with Uetty. 
 
 for which a recipe is given elsewhere ; or any preserve or 
 jelly can be used to fill them. They are served upon a 
 folded napkin, as shown in the second cut. 
 
 BAVARIAN CREAM. 
 
 This cream is served cold in a form, or sometimes re- 
 places whipped cream in a charlotte-russe. To make it, put 
 a quarter of an ounce of gelatine over the fire with a gill 
 
DESSERT. 515 
 
 of hot water, and stir the gelatine until it is dissolved, when 
 it may be set near enough to the fire to keep it liquid ; whip 
 the white of one egg to a stiff froth, and gradually pour the 
 liquid gelatine into it, whipping it until it begins to setj 
 then cool it for five minutes ; whip it again, and stir into it 
 four ounces of pulverized sugar, five drops of lemon and ten 
 of vanilla essence, and a tablespoonful of brandy ; mean- 
 time, prepare a pint of whipped cream as directed in the 
 proper recipe ; when the whipped cream is ready, beat the 
 yolk of one raw egg for one minute, and then beat it into 
 the prepared gelatine ; last of all, add the pint of whipped 
 cream, stirring it in very gently and thoroughly, and use the 
 cream to fill a charlotte-mould lined with sponge-cake or 
 lady-fingers. The Bavarian cream is sometimes cooled in 
 a mould, and turned out on a base of whipped cream. 
 
 CALF'S-rOOT JELLY. 
 
 As the following recipe is very explicit, and has been re- 
 peatedly tested, the fact that it has been published several 
 times does not make it seem necessary to change it in any 
 way. 
 
 Thoroughly wash four calf 's-feet in plenty of cold water, 
 trimming off all defective portions, and carefully removing 
 all the hairs ; put them over the fire in a thick saucepan 
 with two gallons of cold water, one heaping teaspoonful of 
 salt, a dozen whole cloves, an inch of stick-cinnamon, and 
 the yellow rind of one lemon cut very thin ; place the sauce- 
 pan where its contents will boil very slowly ; remove all 
 scum as it rises, and continue the boiling until there are only 
 about two quarts of the broth remaining in the saucepan ; 
 by this time the calf 's-feet will have become almost gelatin- 
 ous from the prolonged boiling, and the broth will be in 
 good condition to make the jelly ; strain the broth, and cool 
 it, in order to remove the fat. After the broth from the 
 
$16 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 calf s-feet is quite cold, it will present the appearance of a 
 cloudy, whitish, opaque jelly; it must then be clarified and 
 flavored as follows : For two quarts of the unclarified jelly, 
 put into a thick saucepan the whites and shells of four 
 eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cold water, arid the yellow rinds 
 of two lemons cut very thin; mix these ingredients for a 
 moment, breaking the egg-shells ; then add one pound of 
 white sugar, and the cold jellied broth ; place the saucepan 
 over the fire, and occasionally stir its contents until they 
 begin to boil ; then place it where the jelly will boil gently 
 until it looks as clear as wine under the scum of egg which 
 rises to the surface ; put in a large bowl a quart of good 
 sherry and the strained juice of four lemons ; set a colander 
 over the bowl, wet a clean towel in hot v/ater, fold it double, 
 and lay it in the colander ; pour the boiling jelly into the 
 towel, and let it strain through without stirring the egg or 
 disturbing the folded towel in any way ; do not squeeze the' 
 towel, or try to hasten the straining, because that might allow 
 some of the particles of egg to escape into the jelly, thus 
 clouding it ; a flannel jelly-bag may be used for the strain- 
 ing if one is at hand ; after the jelly is strained, it can be 
 cooled in cups, moulds, or glass jars, and kept in a cool place 
 until wanted for use. 
 
 MADEIRA JELLY. 
 
 Make some good calfs-fi<ot jelly very thick; after clari- 
 fying it, as directed in the recipe for clarifying stock and 
 jelly, dissolve in a quart of the jelly, while it is warm, half 
 an ounce of isinglass ; add to it half a pint of good madeira, 
 a glass of brandy, and enough sugar to sweeten* the jelly 
 acceptably ; then cool it in moulds, and serve it cold. 
 
 NOYEAU JELLY. 
 
 Put an ounce of the best isinglass into half a pint of luke- 
 warm water, and stir it over the fire until it is dissolved ; 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 517 
 
 meantime put over the fire a pound of loaf-sugar, the juice 
 of half a lemon, and half a pint of cold water, and boil 
 them without stirring until they form a thick sirup; mix 
 with the dissolved isinglass the sirup and a wineglass of 
 noyeau cordial or liqueur; and then strain the jelly into a 
 mould wet in cold water, and allow the jelly to harden before 
 turning it out of the mould. 
 
 ORANGES WITS JELLY. 
 
 Cut from sound oranges a small circular piece from the 
 stem end, as shown in the accompanying engraving, and 
 scoop out the pulp of the fruit ; or cut the rind in the form 
 of a basket ; wash the peels in cold water, put them over 
 the fire in boiling water with a little sugar, and boil them 
 
 Oranges filled with Jelly. 
 
 for five minutes'; then cool them, and fill them with Florida- 
 orange jelly, or with any jelly, slightly softened by heat; 
 after the orange-rinds are filled with jelly, it must be allowed 
 to harden ; the entire rind containing the jelly can then be 
 cut in quarters, as shown in the engraving, or served whole. 
 The effect is very pretty. 
 
 CHARTREUSE OF CANDIED ORANGES. 
 
 Peel and quarter oranges enough to line the bottom and 
 sides of a round tin jelly-mould ; lay the quarters upon a sieve, 
 and place them on the shelf over the stove, or on the oven. 
 
5l8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 door, where the white membrane which encloses the pulp 
 will become quite dry ; this membrane must be entirely un^ 
 broken, so that no juice can escape. While the oranges are 
 drying, put over the fire in a sugar-boiler half a pound of 
 loaf-sugar, a gill of water, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 
 and boil the sugar until it cracks off sharp when cooled in 
 ice-water ; after large bubbles begin to show on the top of 
 the boiling sugar, it must be tested frequently to see if it is 
 boiled crisp enough. When the sugar is done, pour some 
 sweet -salad-oil in a round tin mould, run it all over the in- 
 side of the mould, and then pour it out ; dip the quarters of 
 orange in the hot sugar, one by one, and then entirely Une 
 the bottom and sides of the oiled mould with them, over- 
 lapping the quarters a little ; the sugar will hold them to- 
 gether, and the oil will prevent adhesion to the mould ; after 
 the orange-quarters have cooled in the mould, they will turn 
 out and retain its shape ; this forms a chartreuse, which may 
 be filled, just before serving, with any fresh berries, or small 
 fresh fruits, or even with iced creams or jeUies. 
 
 SPINNING SUGAR. 
 
 Spun sugar is used to ornament large candied pieces of 
 fruit and nuts, or nougat; for instance, the preceding piece, 
 the chartreuse of oranges, might be covered with spun sugar 
 after it is taken from the mould ; or a pyramid formed of 
 macaroons, cemented with white of egg ; or any large orna- 
 mental combination piece built up of candied nuts, fruit, 
 and macaroons ; or such a stand of candy as is shown upon 
 the table in the background of the accompanying engraving. 
 The sirup is boiled to the degree called " the crack," and 
 then a very little of it is poured from a spoon moved back 
 and forth over an oiled knife held as shown in the engraving. 
 The motion must be quick and. steady ; the spun sugar may 
 be made in the long sections shown in the picture, or in 
 

 1 
 
 Vi 
 
 v^ 
 
 * <r 
 
 
 Making Spun Sugar, 
 
520 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 shorter lengths ; or it may be spun directly over the piece to 
 be ornamented. 
 
 DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR. 
 
 The degrees of boiling sugar for confectioners' purposes 
 are seven : /a lisse, or thread, small and large ; la perle, or 
 pearl, small and large ; le souffle, or blow ; la plume, or 
 feather ; le boulet, or ball, small and large ; la casse, or crack ; 
 and le caramel, or the point of burning. 
 
 The hand is used in testing, iirst dipping the fingers in 
 cold water, and then quickly into the boiling sugar : sugaj- 
 is also boiled by degrees marked on the saccharometer, an 
 instrument which registers the density of sirup ; the hand- 
 test is given here. 
 
 THE THREAD. 
 
 After the sugar has been boiling a few moments, wet the 
 forefinger, dip it into the sirup, and quickly withdraw it, 
 press it upon the thumb, and then pull it away ; the small 
 thread is when the sugar breaks after the thumb and finger 
 have been separated to a short distance ; the large thread, 
 when they can be stretched farther apart without breaking 
 the sugar. 
 
 THE PEARL. 
 
 The pearl is when the sugar reaches without breaking if 
 the fingers are extended nearly as far as possible ; the large 
 pearl, when the thread of sugar remains intact after the 
 fingers are stretched to their widest extent. 
 
 THE BLOW. 
 
 At this degree of boiling, small bubbles may be formed 
 by dipping a skimmer in the sugar, and then blowing through 
 the holes ; the bubbles fly apart, and sparkle on the reverse 
 of the skimmer. 
 
DESSERT. 521 
 
 THE FEATHER. 
 
 When this point is reached, the bubbles formed by blow- 
 ing the sugar through the skimmer are larger ; and if the 
 skimmer is shaken, fine threads of sugar like floss fly off 
 from it. 
 
 THE BALL. 
 
 At "the ball," a little of the sugar can be rolled to a very 
 soft ball between the wet fingers. The next degree is the 
 larger and harder ball of sugar, which can be bitten with- 
 out sticking to the teeth. 
 
 The sugar should now be tested constantly. 
 
 THE CRACK. 
 
 As this degree of boiling appfoaches, large purling bub- 
 bles form upon the surface of the boiling sugar, and it is 
 very near the point for making spun sugar and candied nuts 
 and fruit. Wet the hand, and dip it into the boiling sugar, 
 and then again into the cold water ; if the sugar hardens at 
 once, and breaks with a crackling noise between the fingers 
 or the teeth, the proper point has been reached, and the 
 sugar must at once be taken from the fire, because there is 
 great danger that it will pass beyond the point of caramel. 
 
 CARAMEL. 
 
 Caramel is the point at which sugar begins to burn. It 
 becomes tinged with yellow, and then quickly browns, and 
 begins to smoke ; to check the boiling, set the sugar-boiler 
 into a pan of cold water for a moment, and then use the sugar. 
 
 TO PREVENT GRANULATION IN BOILING SUGAR. 
 
 As the sugar boils, repeatedly wipe the sides of the boiler, 
 where the sugar bubbles against it, with a cloth wet in cold 
 water; and add five or six drops of lemon-juice or vinegar, 
 
522 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 or dissolved citric acid or cream of tartar," or salad-oil, or a 
 very small bit of butter, or a teaspoonful of honey ; in short, 
 any acid or fat, in very small quantity, to keep the sugar 
 smooth ; and do not stir it while it is boiling. 
 
 The fat or acid must be used in very small proportion, or 
 the sugar will be spoiled ; above all, keep the sides of the 
 sugar-boiler clean with the wet cloth. 
 
 BOW TO REDUCE BOILING SUGAR A DEGREE. 
 
 If sugar boils beyond the desired degree, reduce it by 
 adding a few tablespoorfuls of water, and boil it again. If 
 it has reached the point of burning, the consistency may be 
 reduced, but the taste of burned sugar will remain. But the 
 sugar should be too care/ully watched and tested to allow 
 burning. 
 
 NOUGAT. 
 
 Blanch a pound of almonds after they are shelled, by 
 pogring boiling water over them, and then rubbing off the 
 skins with a wet towel ; cut the blanched almonds in several 
 pieces, and put them into a moderate oven, in a pan ; occa- 
 sionally shake them, until they are very hot, but do not let 
 them brown ; meantime put half a pound of fine white sugar 
 over the fire, in a thick saucepan or sugar-boiler, with a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir it with a wooden spoon 
 until the sugar is entirely melted and small bubbles begin to 
 show on the surface ; then at once throw in the hot almonds, 
 stir them gently through the sugar until they are mixed with 
 it, and then pour out the nougat on an oiled slab or dish, 
 flattening and smoothing it with half a lemon dipped in oil ; 
 work quickly, because the nougat hardens fast. Pistache 
 nuts are sometimes added to the almonds in making 
 
 ' A saltspoonful of cream of tartar is enough for a pound of sugar. 
 
DESSERT. ' 523 
 
 FREEZHTG-TUB FOR FROZEN PUDDINGS. 
 
 This engraving shows the mould containing the pudding 
 which is to be frozen set in the tub of freezing-mixture, and 
 
 Freezing-Tubs for Ices and Frozen Pucldin. 
 
 also the mould entirely covered with ice packed upon it ; 
 over the ice a folded blanket or a piece of clean carpet is 
 thrown, until the pudding is entirely frozen. 
 
 FROZEN CABINET-PUDDING. 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of hot water, 
 and keep it warm enough to be liquid ; break into a sauce- 
 pan the yolks of six raw eggs, add to them half a pound of 
 white sugar, a quart of cream, and a teaspoonful of any pre- 
 ferred flavoring ; cut in small pieces a quarter of a pound of 
 citron, making as many slices as possible in the form of leaves j 
 use four ounces each of candied cherries, pineapple, and 
 any other French fruit, cutting the last two in small dice ; 
 with the citron-leaves and cherries make wreaths upon the 
 bottom and sides of the inside of a three-pint plain tin mould 
 which has a tight cover, filling each piece of fruit against 
 the mould with a small bit of cold butter ; cut pieces of 
 
524 PRACTICAL AMERICAN' COOKERY. 
 
 sponge-cake baked in thin sheets, to fit against the fruit on 
 the inside of the mould, and line it with the cake ; a large 
 loaf of sponge-cake can be sUced, for lining the mould ; after 
 the mould is lined, fill it with alternate layers of cake and 
 fruit until within half an inch of the top, and cut a shce of 
 cake to fit over the top ; after the mould is filled, put the 
 saucepan containing the custard over the fire, and stir it 
 constantly until it begins to thicken ; then stir in the gelatine, 
 and strain it into the mould containing the fruit and cake ; 
 when it has cooled a little, put on the top slice of cake, and 
 the cover of the mould, and close the mould -by binding a strip 
 of buttered cloth or thick paper around the joint of the 
 cover ; pack the mould as directed for the second freezing of 
 ices, in the proper recipe, and freeze the pudding for four 
 hours ; turn it from the mould before serving it. 
 
 Frozen cabinet pudding may be served with cold boiled 
 custard, whipped cream, the rum-sauce given with the re- 
 cipe for hot cabinet pudding, or with any good hard sauce. 
 
 CONFECTIONERS' NESSELRODE PUDDING. 
 
 This delicious ice can be prepared at home by attending 
 closely to the following directions, or any good confectioner 
 will make it to order. Boil fifty Italian chestnuts, remove 
 the shells and skins, and either rub them through a sieve 
 with a potato-masher, or pound them to a pulp in a mortar ; 
 there should be about a pint and a half of chestnut pulp ; 
 mix with it an equal quantity by measure of fine sugar, and 
 a pint and a half of very thick cream whipped to a stiff 
 froth, and freeze it like ice-cream ; meantime put over the 
 fire a pound of sugar and a pint and a half of water, and 
 let it boil ; while the sirup is heating, pick over four ounces 
 of sultana or seedless raisins, and cut in small dice four 
 ounces each of citron and candied pineapple, and when the 
 sugar is melted put them into it, together with four ounces 
 
DESSERT. 525 
 
 of candied cherries ; boil the fruit in the sirup for five min- 
 utes, and then strain it out, saving the sirup ; after the fruit 
 is put into the sirup, boil and peel twenty-five more chest- 
 nuts ; when the chestnuts are done, return the sirup to the 
 fire with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and boil it until large 
 bubbles form on the top ; then begin to test it by dropping 
 a little into ice-water ; as soon as it is hard and crisp directly 
 it touches the water, dip the nuts into it, and lay them on an 
 oiled dish. The candied nuts are to be used as a garnish 
 for the pudding after it is frozen. After the cream is frozen, 
 mix the fruit with it, and pack it in a tight mould for the 
 second freezing, or in paper cases, and freeze it the second 
 time as directed in the recipes for freezing ices ; serve the 
 candied nuts around it when it is sent to the table. 
 
 FRANCATELLI'S NESSELRODE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a pulp, or puree, of three dozen large chestnuts, as 
 directed in the preceding recipe ; put it into a thick sauce- 
 pan with the yolks of eight eggs, a pint of cream, a small 
 vanilla-bean powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a pint 
 of pineapple-sirup ; stir these ingredients over the fire until 
 the eggs begin to thicken ; then take the cream from the 
 fire, rub it through a fine sieve with a wooden spoon, cool 
 it, and half freeze it as directed in the preceding recipe. 
 While the pudding is being frozen, cut the following fruit in 
 small pieces, and put it into a bowl with a gill of maraschino : 
 a quarter of a pound each of seedless raisins, candied cher- 
 ries, candied or preserved pineapple, and citron, and whip 
 half a pint of cream. When the pudding is half frozen, mix 
 the whipped cream and fruit with it, and finish freezing it as 
 directed in the preceding recipe. 
 
 COFFEE BOMBE. 
 
 Put in a saucepan over the fire half a pound of roasted 
 Mocha coffee-berries, and shake them until they are thor- 
 
526 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 oughly heated ; then pour over them a pint of cream, covet 
 the saucepan, and let the cream and coffee remain hot, 
 without boiling, for an hour ; then strain off the cream. 
 After the cream is strained, put into a thick saucepan the 
 yolks of eight eggs, a pound of sugar, and the cream 
 strained through a napkin ; dissolve an ounce and a half of 
 gelatine in a gill of hot water ; whip half a pint of cream to 
 a stiff froth ; put the saucepan containing the sugar, eggs, 
 and cream over the fire, and stir it until it begins to thicken ; 
 then remove it from the fire, and stir the dissolved gelatine 
 into it for two minutes ; after stirring in the gelatine, mix in 
 the whipped cream very quickly and lightly ; put the coffee 
 bombe into a tight-covered mould, and freeze it as directed 
 for frozen puddings ; or put it into little paper cases, and 
 freeze them for three hours, as directed in the proper recipe. 
 
 ICE-CRWAMS. 
 
 The secret of making good ice-cream of any grade lies 
 in the freezing. The old way of freezing cream, which is still 
 in use among small confectioners, consisted of occasionally 
 stirring the cream while it was freezing in a tin can set in a 
 tub of ice and salt. A more easy and expeditious method 
 is within the reach of the average housekeeper in these days 
 of patent freezers. The same principle underlies all the best- 
 known patents ; i.e., the mixing of the cream by a wooden 
 beater which revolves inside the can by the same motion 
 that slighdy changes the position of the can in the outer tub 
 of ice and salt. This freezing-mixture should be composed 
 of three parts of crushed ice to one of coarse salt, and care 
 should be taken that it does not reach high enough around 
 the sides of the can to penetrate to the interior, and so 
 spoil the cream ; the water formed in the outer tub by the 
 melting of the freezing mixture need not be drawn off while 
 the cream is being frozen, unless it is likely to get into the 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 527 
 
 can, because the water is intensely cold. If it is desired to 
 pack the cream after it is frozen, the water may be drawn 
 off, and enough more ice and salt packed around the can to 
 nearly reach to the top. Ice-cream packed in this way can 
 be kept over night, or longer if the freezing mixture is prop- 
 erly renewed. When ice-cream is " moulded," or packed in 
 tin moulds of fancy shapes, all the openings should be closed 
 with butter, or oiled paper closed about the apertures of the 
 mould with paste or gum-tragacanth. 
 
 Ice-creams of the most ordinary sort are made of milk, 
 thickened with arrowroot or corn-starch in the proportion 
 of a tablespoonful to a quart, dissolved in cold water, and 
 then boiled in the milk, which is cooled, sweetened, and 
 flavored before it is frozen. 
 
 PLAIN ICE-CREAM. 
 
 The sort of ice-cream usually made at home is composed 
 of milk, with a small proportion of cream, with eggs and 
 sugar added to it : for instance, dissolve half a pound of 
 sugar in a quart of milk, place it over the fire, ana let it heat 
 to the boiling point ; meantime beat three eggs to a cream, 
 pour the boiling milk into them, and then return to the fire, 
 and stir it until it begins to thicken ; then at once remove it 
 from the fire, stir it until it is smooth ; then flavor it, cool 
 it, and when it is cool, freeze it, according to directions 
 given, in the freezer. 
 
 FROZEN CUSTARD. 
 
 Frozen custard is made in the same way, only five eggs, 
 at least, are added to a quart of milk. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Philadelphia ice-cream is pure cream over-sweetened, 
 over-flavored, and then frozen. 
 
528 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 
 
 A good vanilla ice-cream is made from cream over- 
 sweetened, and flavored with powdered vanilla-bean ; when 
 it is half frozen, the white of an egg, beaten to a stiff froth, 
 is stirred thoroughly into it, and the freezing is completed. 
 
 FRENCH ICE-CREAM. 
 
 French ice-cream, thick and yellow, is made by boiling a 
 quart of cream with a long vanilla-bean, and then cooling 
 and straining it ; then the yolks of twelve eggs are beaten 
 smooth with three-quarters of a pound of sugar ; the flavored 
 cream is then mixed with the eggs, and stirred over the fire 
 until it begins to thicken ; directly the cream begins to 
 thicken, take it from the fire, and stir it for five minutes; 
 then cool it, and freeze it. - 
 
 COFFEE ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Coffee ice-cream. is made by roasting half a .pound of 
 coffee, pouring three pints of boiling cream over it, and 
 steeping for an hour; the cream, flavored with coffee, is 
 then made according to the directions given for French ice- 
 cream. A plainer coffee ice-cream is made by using five or 
 six eggs to a quart of cream or milk. Tea ice-cream is 
 similarly made, an ounce of tea being first infused in a quart 
 of creanw 
 
 BROWN-BREAD ICE-CREAM. 
 
 For brown-bread ice-cream, grate fine about a cupful of 
 brown bread, soak it for half an hour in a quart of cream, 
 and then rather over-sweeten it ; have ready an ice-cream 
 freezer packed with a freezing-mixture composed of one 
 part salt to three parts pounded ice ; put the cream into the 
 freezer, and freeze it in accordance with the directions 
 which always accompany every freezer, some of which have 
 already been given. 
 
DJiSSERT. sag 
 
 FANCY ICE-CREAMS AND ICES. 
 
 The same caxe must be exercised in freezing fancy ice- 
 creams ; and after the first freezing they are to be packed 
 in moulds, which must be absolutely tight, and the moulds 
 in turn packed in a large tub of pounded ice, and covered 
 with a heavy woollen blanket or strip of soft carpet. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Neapolitan or harlequin ice-cream is made by packing the 
 mould with layers of various colored creams after they are 
 frozen ; usually vanilla, pistache, and strawberry creams are 
 used ; a good recipe is given above for vanilla ice-cream, 
 another for strawberry is given below, 
 
 PISTACHE ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Pistache ice-cream is made by adding about two ounces 
 of blanched pistache nuts to a quart of any good ice-cream ; 
 the nuts are shelled, boiling water is poured over the ker- 
 nels, and the skins rubbed off with a wet towel ; the nuts 
 are then pounded to a smooth paste in a mortar, a few drops 
 of rosewater being added to prevent oiling, and colored 
 with spinach green, a harmless vegetable coloring sold by 
 dealers in confectioners' supplies. 
 
 TXJTTI FRXJTTI. 
 
 Tutti Frutti is good vanilla ice-cream frozen, and then 
 -nixed with candied fruit, and packed in moulds for the 
 iSecond freezing ; the French candied fruits are the best for 
 this cream. 
 
 PLUM-PUDDING GLACE 
 
 Plum-pudding glace is made by first seeding twelve ounces 
 of raisins, and boiling them gently for fifteen minutes in a 
 quart of milk or cream with a small stick of cinnamon ; a 
 
530 PRACTICAL AMERICAN. COOKERY. 
 
 quarter of a pound of almonds are to be shelled, their skins 
 removed by pouring boiling water on them, and rubbing 
 them in a wet towel ; they are then to be pounded fine in a 
 mortar, with a few drops of rosewater ; two ounces each of 
 preserved ginger and citron are to be sliced thin, and the 
 yolks of four eggs beaten to a cream with half a pound of 
 powdered sugar ; the raisins and cinnamon are to be strained 
 from the milk, which is to be returned to the fire, and stirred 
 while the eggs and sugar are added to it ; it is to be stirred 
 until it begins to thicken, then removed from the fire ; whr .. 
 it is cold, the fruit and almonds are to be added to it, witii 
 a quart of sweetened cream ; and it is to be frozen, and then 
 packed in ice. In serving the pudding, whipped cream 
 flavored with wine, brandy, or rum is placed around it after 
 it is turned from the mould. 
 
 FRUIT ICE-CREAMS. 
 
 Fruit ice-creams are made by mixing fresh fruit-juice and 
 f^ream in equal parts, and sweetening and freezing them. 
 The fruit crushed is also used, with cream and sugar. Straw- 
 berries, raspberries, and grated pineapple make dehcious 
 creams. Fresh fruits crushed, sweetened, and frozen are 
 delicate and refreshing ; peaches and bananas are especially 
 good so frozen. Fresh peaches frozen with Philadelphia 
 ice-cream are excellent. Equal parts of good ice-cream and 
 very sweet apple-sauce mixed, and frozen again, make a 
 delicious cream. 
 
 FRUIT-ICES. 
 
 The ordinary fruit-ices are made by mixing equal parts of, 
 fruit-juice and water with plenty of sugar, and then freezing 
 them; less lemon-juice is required. Confectioners some- 
 times add the beaten whites of two eggs to each quart of 
 fruit-ice when it is partly frozen, and then finish the freezing. 
 
DESSERT. 531 
 
 VTATEB-ICES. 
 
 The finer water-ices are made of sirup and fruit-juice 
 frozen ; the sirup is prepared by boiling together four pounds 
 of sugar, one quart of water, and the white of an egg beaten 
 with them, for ten minutes ; the sirup is then strained and 
 cooled ; for ices, a palatable mixture is made with fruit-juice, 
 and when it is half frozen the white of one egg beaten is 
 added. 
 
 ROMAN PUNCH. 
 
 Ordinary Roman punch is a plain fruit-ice to which rum 
 is added," a gill to a quart, and, in serving, a teaspoonful of 
 rum is placed in each glass. A finer sort is made of an ice 
 with the sirup, to each quart of which, when half frozen, are 
 added three whites of egg beaten stiff, six tablespoonfuls 
 of powdered sugar, and one glass each of rum and brandy. 
 
 ROMAN-PUNCH GLACE. 
 
 Roman-punch glace is made by adding to a quart of 
 lemon-ice made with sirup three whites of egg beaten stiff, 
 and one glass each of brandy, champagne, and maraschino, 
 and then freezing it. 
 
 CHAMPA GNE-ICE. 
 
 Have ready a freezer as directed in the recipes for freez- 
 ing ices and creams. Make a very strong, sweet lemonade, 
 and half freeze it, then mix with it a quart bottle of good 
 champagne, after the lemonade is half frozen; close the 
 freezer again quickly, and freeze the ice. In mixing the 
 champagne with the lemon-ice, open the champagne quickly, 
 pour it at once into the freezer, close it without stirring it 
 (because the mixer inside the freezer will do that), and then 
 turn the freezer until the ice is hard enough to serve ; the 
 utmost expedition must be used in opening and mixing 
 the champagne with the lemon-ice, because its volatile gas 
 
532 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICA A' COOKERY. 
 
 escapes so rapidly ; and the freezer must be kept closed and 
 well packed with ice until the champagne-ice is served. 
 
 FREEZING-TUB FOR SMALL ICES. 
 
 The accompanying engraving shows the tub and mould 
 for freezing small ices and creams in paper cases. The tub 
 contains the mould packed in ice ; the mould is also shown 
 outside the tub, and the frame which fits in the mould, and 
 
 ^^% 
 M 
 
 Freezing-Tub for Small Ices. 
 
 holds the paper cases filled with creams or ices. After the 
 frame is fitted into the mould, it is packed in the tub with 
 the freezing-mixture, and covered with ice, and then with ,1 
 folded blanket or a piece" of clean carpet, until the contents 
 of the little cases are frozen. 
 
 CANNED FRUIT. 
 
 The canning of fruit is a very simple matter. The fruit 
 must be perfectly sound and ripe, and cut or kept whole to 
 please the fancy. The jars should be of glass with porce- 
 lain-lined tops, and rubber bands to exclude the air; put 
 the cans into a pan of cold water with some hay or a folded 
 towel under them, and set them on the stove to heat. Then 
 put into them fruit scalded without sugar, or with as much 
 sugar as is desired, keeping the cans in the hot water until 
 the fruit has been put into them and the tops are screwed 
 
DESSERT. 533 
 
 on ; then let them cool ; again screw down the tops as close 
 as possible, and set the cans in a cool, dark closet. 
 
 To can fruit without sugar, put it into the jars after it is 
 prepared, set the jars on g, rack of wooden slats in a large 
 boiler ; pour in cold water enough to reach half way up the 
 sides of the cans, spread a cloth over the top of the boiler, 
 and put on the cover ; place the boiler over the fire ; when 
 the steam begins to escape freely, note the time, and con- 
 tinue the cooking of the fruit according to its size : in or- 
 dinary quart cans, the small berries will cook in fifteen 
 minutes ; the large berries, grapes, cherries, and currants, 
 in about twenty minutes ; peaches, pears, plums, cut apples, 
 pineapples, and most other large fruit, in twenty minutes : 
 quinces and hard pears require half an hour. After the fruit 
 is done, the boiler should be removed from the fire, and as 
 soon as the jars can be handled with the aid of folded dry 
 towels the covers should be screwed on ; when the jars are 
 cool, the covers should be tightened, and the fruit put away 
 in a cool, dark place. 
 
 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 
 
 The making of preserves and jellies was formerly much 
 more the test of excellence among housekeepers than it is 
 now. So many preserved and canned fruits are to be 
 bought at reasonable prices, and of varying qualities, that 
 even careful housekeepers use them. For the guidance of 
 those who prefer the home-made kinds, two points may be 
 emphasized : i.e., the keeping of preserves depends both 
 upon the proportion of sugar used, and their thorough cook- 
 ing ; and the excellence of jeUies, upon the clear quality of 
 the fruit-juice, and the boiling of the jelly until a litde of it, 
 cooled on a saucer, hardens or thickens to the desired con- 
 sistency. 
 
 The general principles given in one recipe apply to all 
 
534 
 
 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the others of a similar kind. All jellies and preserves should 
 be entirely closed from the air, and kept in a cool, dark 
 place. If they show any sign of fermentation or mould, they 
 should be boiled at once, with a little more sugar, and again 
 closed from the air. 
 
 JELLY-BAGS. 
 
 The first cut shows a flannel jelly-bag tied upon a frame, 
 
 Jelly-Bag on Frame, 
 
 with a Utensil placed underneath to receive the jelly as it 
 runs through the bag. The second figure represents a 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 535 
 
 Idtchen rush-stool turned over, with a straining-cloth tied 
 ipon the bottom of the legs of the stool ; if a little depres- 
 sion is left in the centre of the cloth, and a utensil set under 
 t upon the rush of the stool, this improvised strainer will 
 
 Improvised Straining-Cloth for Soups and Jellies. 
 
 rve the purpose of straining when a jelly-bag is not at 
 nd. Or a fine towel may be folded twice, and laid in a 
 lander set over an earthen bowl, and the jelly or broth 
 ained through it. 
 
536 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PINEAPPLE JELLY. 
 
 Choose perfectly ripe pineapples, pare them thinly, re^ 
 move the eyes, and grate them ; to each pound of fruit add 
 half a pound of white sugar, and let them stand two or three 
 hours ; then put them over the fire in a porcelain-lined 
 preserving-kettle, and let them slowly approach the boiling- 
 point, and boil gently until the fruit is tender ; hang a jelly- 
 bag over an earthen bowl, pour the hot pineapple and sirup 
 into it, and let the sirup run through the bag without press- 
 ing it ; do not squeeze the bag, and let the pineapple remain 
 in it until every particle of the juice or sirup has drained 
 from it ; it is well to let it drain over night. To each pint 
 of the juice add half a pound of sugar, and boil it gently and 
 steadily, removing all scum as fast as it rises ; after the jelly 
 has boiled about fifteen minutes, take up a little on a saucer, 
 and cool it to see if it will harden ; if it does not harden, 
 continue the boiling a few moments, and then test it again ; 
 when the jelly hardens upon cooling, remove it from the 
 fire, cool it until it is lukewarm, then pour it into glasses, 
 and let it get quite cold ; when the jelly is quite cold and 
 firm, cover each glass with a piece of white paper dipped in 
 brandy, and then paste over the tops of the glasses pieces, of 
 white paper dipped in the white of egg slightly beaten, tak- 
 ing care to completely exclude the air from the glasses. 
 Keep the jelly in a cool, dark, dry closet. 
 
 SUGARED PINEAPPLE. 
 
 Use sound, ripe pineapples ; peel and slice them about 
 half an inch thick, removing the little brown circles with a 
 small, sharp knife ; after the fruit is peeled, weigh it, and 
 allow a pound and a quarter of crushed sugar to each pound . 
 of fruit ; roll the sugar until it is quite fine ; .put the pine- 
 apple and sugar into glass jars, in alternate layers, using the 
 
DESSERT. 537 
 
 sugar profusely ; after filling the jars, seal them air-tight, and 
 keep them in a cool place until the pineapple is required ; 
 the fruit will keep a long time if the jars are properly sealed. 
 
 PINEAPPLE PRESERVES. 
 
 Use perfectly sound, ripe pineapples ; peel and slice them, 
 and for each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar ; put the 
 sugar and fruit in layers in a deep bowl, having sugar at 
 the top and bottom, and let the pineapple stand over night. 
 In the morning strain the sirup into a preserving-kettle, place 
 it over the fire, and boil it gently, skimming it until it is 
 quite clear ; after the sirup is free from scum, continue to 
 boil it slowly and steadily until a little of it, cooled upon a 
 saucer, thickens to a medium consistency; then pour the 
 sirup again upon the pineapple, and let it cool. 
 
 When the preserves are quite cold, put them up as di- 
 rected in the recipe for pineapple-jelly. 
 
 CRAB-APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Wash and stem the apples, cut them in halves, put them 
 over the fire in enough cold water to cover them, and stew 
 them to a pulp ; then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let the 
 juice drain from them. The apple-pulp may be sweetened 
 and used for luncheon. To make the jelly, allow a pound 
 of sugar to a pint of juice ; boil them together, removing all 
 scum, for about twenty minutes, or until a little of the juice 
 forms a jelly on being cooled. Then partly cool the jelly, 
 and put it up as already directed for jellies. 
 
 CRAB-APPLE JELLY WITH LEMON. 
 
 To each pound of crab-apples allow one lemon ; cut the 
 yellow rind of the lemon very thin, and squeeze 'and strain 
 the juice ; make the jelly according to the preceding recipe, 
 boiling the yellow rind with the apples, and adding th^ 
 
538 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 lemon-juice just before the jelly is thick enough to put up 
 in the glasses. 
 
 CBAB-AJPFLE PRESERVE. 
 
 Wash the apples, leaving on the stems, put them over the 
 fire with an equal weight of sugar, and boiling water enough 
 to cover them, and boil them gently until they are tender, 
 but not broken, removing all scum as it rises ; when the 
 apples are tender, skim them out of the sirup, and put them 
 in jars ; boil the sirup until it begins to thicken ; then cool 
 it, pour it over the apples, and put them up like other 
 preserves. 
 
 APPLE-JELLY. 
 
 Choose a dozen large, sound, spicy apples ; wipe them 
 with a wet cloth, quarter them, and remove the cores ; put 
 the apples into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water, place 
 them over the fire, and simmer them gently for half an hour. 
 Then place a sieve over an earthen bowl, pour the apples 
 into the sieve without breaking them, and let the juice dfain 
 into the bowl entirely. When all the juice has run through 
 the sieve, use the apples for sauce, first sweetening them a 
 little. Then strain the apple-juice, add to each pint of juice 
 a pound of white sugar, put the juice and sugar into a 
 preserving-kettle, set it over the fire, and heat its contents 
 gradually. After the jelly begins to boil, boil it for ten min- 
 utes, and then cool it in glasses or moulds. 
 
 APPLE MARMALADE. 
 
 Peel seven pounds of tart apples, and put them into the 
 preserving-kettle with a pint of cold water ; peel the yellow 
 rind of four lemons, and add it to the apples ; squeeze the 
 juice of the lemons, and keep it until the apples are boiled 
 to a pulp ; then add it to them, together with four pounds 
 of sugar, and boil the marmalade for half an hour longer, 
 or until it has the proper consistency. Put it up in jelly- 
 glasses after it has cooled a little. 
 
DESSERT. 539 
 
 NEW-ENGLANB APPLE-JAM. 
 
 Choose rather tart, highly flavored apples ; pare, and slice 
 them thin, or chop them rather small, removing the cores ; 
 weigh them after they are prepared, and allow an equal 
 weight of light-brown sugar ; to each pound of sugar add 
 a gill of cold water, put them together in a preserving-kettle 
 over the fire, melt the sugar, and boil the sirup, skimming 
 it until it is clear ; then put in the apples ; grate the yellow 
 rind and squeeze the juice of one lemon, and scrape and 
 slice one small green ginger-root, for each pound of apples ; 
 add both to the apples and sirup as soon as they are pre- 
 pared, and boil all slowly until the apples look clear, stirring 
 them often enough to prevent burning. When the jam is 
 cooked sufficiently, partly cool it in the preserving-kettle, 
 and then put it up in glass or earthen jars, sealing them air- 
 tight after they are cold. 
 
 PLUM MARMALADE. 
 
 Wash and drain the plums, cut them quite to the stone 
 with a silver fruit-knife, put them into the preserving-kettle, 
 and place it over a moderate fire; stir the plums often 
 enough to prevent burning, and as the stones rise to the 
 surface in boiling skim them out ; simmer the plums until 
 they are tender enough to rub through a sieve ; crack about 
 a quarter of the stones, peel the kernels, and cut them in 
 strips ; after the plums are tender, rub them through a sieve 
 with a wooden spoon or a potato-masher ; add the kernels, 
 and weigh the pulp ; allow three-quarters as much sugar as 
 there is fruit ; put them together into the preserving-kettle, 
 stir them until they boil, and gently boil them for ten min- 
 utes, stirring constantly; then partly cool the marmalade, 
 and put it up as already directed. 
 
540 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 PLUM-JAM. 
 
 Wash, dry, and weigh the plums ; allow three-quarters of 
 their weight in sugar ; put the plums over the fire, and boil 
 them gently for three-quarters of an hour, stirring- them 
 often enough to prevent burning; .remove the stones as 
 they rise to the surface, and crack one-fourth of them ; at 
 the end of three-quarters of an hour put in the sugar, and 
 continue to bpil the jam for fifteen minutes, stirring it con- 
 stantly, and removing all scum as it rises; five minutes 
 before it is done, put in the kernels ; when the jam is partly 
 cool, put it in jars ; when it is quite cold, lay paper dipped 
 in brandy in each jar, and seal them air-tight. 
 
 PLUM-JELLY. 
 
 Plum-jelly is made from equal parts of plum-juice; 
 obtained by boiling the plums as apples are boiled for apple- 
 jelly and white sugar; finish the jelly as directed in the 
 recipe for apple-jelly. 
 
 BRANDIED GREEN- GAGE PLUMS. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound green-gage plums, not quite ripe ; 
 wash them in cold water, and wipe them dry ; have plenty 
 of peach or vine leaves washed and drained ; in the bottom 
 of a preserving-kettle put a layer of leaves three deep ; weigh 
 the plums, and to each pound allow a piece of alum as large 
 as a grain of corn ; put the plums and leaves into the kettle 
 in layers, with the alum pulverized and sprinkled among 
 them ; cover the last layer of plums with a layer of leaves 
 three deep, and pour over them just enough cold water to 
 cover ti\em | spread a clean towel over the top of the kettle, 
 and then fit qn 4 perfecfly tight cover to keep in the steam ; 
 place the kettle on the bapk of the stove, where its contents 
 will heat gradually, and steam them for two hours ; do not 
 
DESSERT. 541 
 
 low the plums to boil, or they will soften and break ; when 
 ley are quite green, drain them and cool them, and put them 
 ito wide-mouthed glass jars. 
 
 Make a sirup as follows : For each pound of plums allow 
 ilf a pound of sugar and" half a pint of water ; put them 
 ito a preserving-kettle, and boil and skim the sirup until it 
 
 clear ; then cool it, and add to it an equal measure of the 
 est French brandy ; when both plums and sirup are quite 
 >ld, fill the jars with the sirup, and then cork aiid seal them 
 j-tight. 
 
 PRESERVED PEARS. 
 
 Choose firm acid pears for preserving ; if the fruit is small, 
 reserve it whole ; if large, cut it in halves or quarters ; peel 
 le pears with a silver fruit-knife, dropping them into cold 
 ater as fast as they are peeled, to prevent discoloration ; 
 hen the fruit is all prepared, weigh it, and allow an equal 
 uantity of sugar ; put the fruit over the fire in sufficient 
 aid water to entirely cover it, and heat and gently boil it 
 ntil it is tender enough to yield to a shght pressure of the 
 ngers ; meantime put the sugar into the preserving-kettle, 
 iding to each pound a pint of cold water, and to every five 
 r six pounds the thinly pared yellow rind and juice of two 
 mons, and two ounces of green ginger-root scalded and 
 ;raped; boil the sirup, and remove all scum as it rises; 
 hen the pears are boiled, as directed above, put them into 
 le sirup, and boil them until they look clear; when the 
 ears are thoroughly penetrated with the sirup, remove the 
 reserving-kettle from the fire, cool the preserves in the sirup, 
 id then put them up as already directed. 
 
 PEAR MARMALADE. 
 
 Peel, quarter, and core ripe pears, weighing them after 
 ley are peeled ; put them into the preserving-kettle, with 
 lough cold water to cover them, heat them slowly, and boil 
 
542 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 them gently until they are quite tender; then skim them 
 from the water ; in their place put the peelings and cores, 
 and boil them for an hour, and then strain the water from 
 them ; allow a pint of this water and a pound of sugar to 
 each pound of fruit ; put the sugar and water over the fire 
 in the preserving-kettle, boil them to a sirup, removing all 
 scum as it rises, and testing the sirup occasionally ; when a 
 little of it, cooled on a saucer, jellies slightly, stir the pears 
 into it, and boil the marmalade for five minutes, stirring it 
 constantly; then partly cool it, and put it up as already 
 directed. 
 
 FEAR-JAM. 
 
 Peel, quarter, and core perfectly ripe pears ; weigh them, 
 and then pack them closely into an earthen jar ; place the jar 
 in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and let it remain 
 until the fruit is soft enough to break apart; then put an 
 equal weight of sugar over the fire, with a pint of water to 
 each pound of sugar, and skim it until it forms a clear sirup ; 
 put the pears into the sirup, and stir them frequently until 
 they boil ; after they begin to boil, stir them constantly, and 
 boil for twenty minutes ; then partly cool the jam, and put 
 it up as already directed. 
 
 SUGARED QXTINCES. 
 
 Select sound, firm quinces ; wipe them with a wet cloth, 
 pare them, cut them in eighths, and core them ; put the 
 cores and parings into a small cloth bag, and boil them with 
 the quinces, which must be put over the fire in a preserving- 
 kettle, with boiling water enough to cover them, and boiled 
 gently until they are tender, then drain and cool them ; after 
 they are cool, weigh them, and allow an equal amount of 
 granulated sugar ; when the quinces are quite cold, put them 
 into glass or earthen jars in layers with the sugar, and cover 
 the jars air-tight. Look at them frequently ; if they show 
 
DESSERT. 543 
 
 my sign of fermentation, place the jars in a large pan of 
 varm water, loosen the covers, and heat the water until the 
 luinces are scalding hot ; close the jars again air-tight aftei 
 he quinces are scalded. 
 
 QUINCES PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Peel rather small ripe quinces, of even size, scoop out the 
 ;ores from the stem ends, weigh, and put the fruit into a 
 jreserving-kettle ; cover it with boiling water, and boil it 
 jently until it is tender, but not in the least broken ; the 
 ;ores and peelings should be tied in a thin cloth, and boiled 
 vith the fruit; add to the water in which the fruit was 
 joiled one pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, removing 
 ill scum as it rises, and when it is quite free from scum, 
 Dour it over the fruit, and let it stand over night ; the next 
 lay put the fruit and sirup into the preserving-kettle, and 
 3oil them gently together until the fruit looks clear ; take the 
 iruit from the sirup when it looks clear, and put it into glass 
 ars ; continue to boil the sirup until a Utrie of it cooled on 
 I saucer jellies, then pour it over the fruit. When the pre- 
 ierves are cold, close the jars air-tight. 
 
 QUINCE-JELLY. 
 
 Quince-jelly is made like apple-jelly, boiling the quinces 
 mtil tender, and then using their juice with an equal part 
 )f sugar ; the quince parings and cores should be enclosed 
 n a small bag, and boiled with the fruit. The residue of 
 he quinces may be made into jam. 
 
 PRESERVED PEACHES. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound, ripe, freestone peaches; either 
 )are them very thinly with a silver knife, without bruising 
 hem, or have ready a gallon of scalding-hot water in which 
 I teaspoonful of washing-soda has been dissolved, and throw 
 
544 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the peaches into it, a few at a time, keeping it scalding hot, 
 . letting them remain in it until their skins burst a little, when 
 they can easily be removed. As fagt as the peaches are 
 peeled, cut them in halves, take out the stones, and throw 
 them into cold water. When all the peaches are peeled, 
 weigh them, and also weigh an equal quantity of white 
 sugar; in the bottom of a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle 
 put a layer of sugar, then add a layer of peaches with their 
 hollow side up, then more sugar, and more peaches, until 
 all are used, covering the top with a layer of sugar. Cover 
 the kettle, and let the fruit stand in the sugar over night. 
 The next day set the preserving-kettle on a gentle fire, and 
 boil the peaches steadily until they look clear, skimming 
 them as often as any scum rises. When they are cooked, 
 cover the preserving-kettle, and let the peaches stand in 
 sirup, off the fire, until they are quite cold ; then put them 
 in jars ; lay a small piece of writing-paper wet with brandy 
 on the top of the preserves before closing the jars, and then 
 close them air-tight. A piece of writing-paper dipped in 
 the white of egg, slightly beaten, and pressed down over the 
 mouth of the jar, will effectually exclude the air.~ 
 
 peach-jelly: 
 
 Peach-jelly is made like the other fruit-jellies ; and after 
 the juice is strained off, the fruit may be sweetened for the 
 table. 
 
 JELLIED PEACHES. 
 
 Peel the peaches, and lay them in cold water, as directed 
 in the preceding recipe ; crack one-fourth of the kernels, 
 and boil. them for half an hour iii just enough water to cover 
 them; when all the peaches are peeled, put them into a 
 preserving-kettle, with an equal quantity of sugar, in layers, 
 and heat them slowly until the sugar melts ; then add the 
 water in which the kernels were boiled, and boil the peaches 
 
DESSERT. 545 
 
 gently until they are transparent ; take them from the sirup 
 with a skimmer, and lay them on sieves ; boil the sirup until 
 it jellies, removing all scum as it rises ; put the peaches into 
 glass jars, pour the hot sirup over them, and let them cool ; 
 then close them air-tight, as directed in the preceding recipe. 
 
 PEACH MARMALADE. 
 
 Brush the fur from sound, ripe peaches, cut them in 
 halves, remove the stones, and crack half of them ; pour 
 boiling water over the cracked kernels, rub off the skins, 
 and cut them in strips lengthwise. Weigh the peaches, and 
 put them into a preserving-kettle with three-fourths of their 
 weight of sugar ; set the kettle over the fire where its con- 
 tents will heat gradually ; stir the marmalade with a wooden 
 spoon constantly after it begins to boil, and let it boil for 
 half an hour ; at the end of twenty-five minutes add the 
 kernels ; put the marmalade into earthen jars, and when it 
 is thoroughly cold lay a round of paper dipped in brandy 
 in each jar, and seal them air-tight. 
 
 BRANDY PEACHES. 
 
 Peel sound Morris White peaches as directed in the recipe 
 for preserved peaches, putting them into hot water while 
 the following sirup is made : For each pound of peaches 
 allow a pound of sugar and half a pint of water; boil 
 them together, removing all scum as it rises, and when the 
 sirup is clear, cool it, and mix it with an equal quantity of 
 the best French brandy ; also boil together a pound of sugar 
 and two quarts of water, and when it has been skimmed 
 clear, put in a few peaches at a time, and boil them until 
 they are tender enough to yield under slight pressure ; then 
 take them up, and put them into jars ; cover them with the 
 brandied sirup, and close the jars air-tight. 
 
546 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE. 
 
 Prepare the marmalade as directed in the preceding re- 
 cipes for marmalade, boiling the fruit only twenty minutes ; 
 and then put up the marmalade as directed above. 
 
 APRICOT PRESERVES AND JELLY. 
 
 Jelly and preserves can be made from apricots by follow- 
 ing the directions given in the peach recipes. 
 
 CHERRY PRESERVES. 
 
 The Morello cherry, and the large red variety ordinarily 
 used for pies, make the best preserves. Choose fine, sound 
 fruit, as large as possible, reserving the smaller fruit for mar- 
 malade. Stem the cherries, and stone the fruit without 
 bruising it ; this is not difficult if a quill is squarely cut off, 
 and pushed evenly through the cherries from the stem end, 
 thus punching out the stones. All the juice from the fruit 
 should be saved. After the fruit is stoned, weigh it, and 
 allow an equal quantity of sugar ; sprinkle the sugar among 
 the cherries, and let them stand for several hours, or over 
 night, so that the sugar may slightly harden the fruit ; then 
 put the fruit, sugar, and juice into a preserving-kettle, place 
 it over the fire, gradually heat them together, and then boil 
 them gently until the cherries look clear, removing all scum 
 as it rises. After the fruit is clear, take the preserving-kettle 
 from the fire, cover it, and let the preserves cool ; when 
 quite cool, put the cherries into glass jars, lay a piece of 
 brandied paper on the top of each jar, and then close them 
 air-tight, and keep them in a cool, dark closet. 
 
 The sweeter varieties of cherries should be reserved for pies 
 and puddings. 
 
 CHERRY MARMALADE. 
 
 Stem and stone fine cherries as directed in the recipe for 
 cherry preserves ; weigh them, and use half their weight in 
 
DESSERT. 547 
 
 igar ; put the sugar over the fire in a preserving-kettle, with 
 aJf a pint of cold water to each pound of sugar, and let the 
 igar boil until a few drops of it cooled in cold water are 
 risp and still slightly sticky ; when the sugar is so boiled, 
 lit the fruit into it, and boil it rapidly, stirring it meantime 
 ntil the marmalade is quite thick and the fruit clear and 
 ;mi-transparent ; then remove the kettle from the fire, 
 aitly cool the marmalade, and put it up like other preserves. 
 
 BRANDIED CHERRIES. 
 
 Use perfectly sound, large, sweet cherries ; remove the 
 ems, or clip them within an inch of the fruit ; put over the 
 re in the preserving- kettle a pound of sugar and a quart of 
 ater ; boil them together, and skim the sirup quite clear ; 
 ;ald the cherries in this for two or three minutes, but not 
 ing enough to break the skins ; then take them from the 
 rup with a skimmer, and spread them on dishes to cool. 
 
 Make a sirup in quantity sufficient to cover the cherries, 
 lowing a pound of sugar to half a pint of water or of the 
 lin sirup used for scalding the cherries ; boil the sirup, 
 amming it until it is clear, and then cool it ; when it is 
 )ld, mix with it an equal quantity of the best French brandy, 
 ut the cherries into wide-mouthed bottles, pour the sirup 
 ^er them, cork the bottles tight, and then seal them by 
 pping the corks into melted resin and wax. 
 
 RASPBERRY PRESERVES. 
 
 Choose large, fine berries which are quite ripe, look care- 
 lly at every one to make sure no insects or worms are 
 dden in the hollows of the fruit, and then weigh it. Allow 
 1 equal weight of sugar and fruit; put a thick layer of 
 gar on the bottom of the preserving-kettle, and then fill 
 e kettle with alternate layers of fruit and sugar, having 
 gar on the top ; let the fruit stand in the sugar over night, 
 
548 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 The next day stem ripe currants, break them, and squeeze 
 their juice through a cloth ; allow half a pint of juice to 
 each two pounds of fruit and sugar, weighed together ; set 
 the preserving-kettle containing the crushed berries and 
 sugar over the fire, add the currant-juice in the proportion 
 specified above, and stir them together until they boil ; re- 
 move all scum as it rises, and stir the berries often enough 
 to prevent sticking, taking care not to break them ; boil the 
 preserves until they look quite clear, and then cool them, 
 and put them up as directed for other preserves. Keep these 
 preserves, like all others, in a cool, dark closet. 
 
 MRS. CHARLES THOKSTON ADAMS'S RASPBERRY JAM. 
 
 When raspberry-jam has been boiled nearly long enough, 
 put currant-jelly with it, in the proportion of half a pint of 
 jelly to a quart of jam, and stir them thoroughly together; 
 then cool the jam, and put it up in the usual way. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JAM. 
 
 After carefully looking over raspberries, weigh them, and 
 allow an equal quantity of sugar. To each pound of fruit 
 and sugar (that is, the united weight of both) allow half 
 a pint of the juice of currants, bruised and squeezed in a 
 cloth. Put the currant-juice and raspberries in a preserving- 
 kettle over the fire, break the berries with a wooden spoon, 
 and stir them constantly until they have boiled quickly long 
 enough to waste about two-thirds of their juice ; then put 
 in the sugar, and continue the stirring until it is completely 
 dissolved ; when the sugar is dissolved, simmer the jam 
 slowly for five minutes, stirring it often enough to prevent 
 burning. 
 
 Cool, and put up the jam as directed in the other recipes 
 for jams. 
 
DESSERT. 549 
 
 CURRANT-JAM. 
 
 Choose fine, ripe currants ; stem them, and weigh them ; 
 illow an equal weight of sugar ; put the fruit and sugar in a 
 )reserving-kettle over a moderate fire, and stir them occa- 
 iionally until they boil ; remove all scum as it rises, and 
 )oil the jam ten minutes from the time it begins to boil ; 
 hen partly cool the jam, and put it into glasses or jars ; 
 v'hen quite cold, put a round of paper dipped in brandy in 
 ;ach glass or jar, and close them from the air with paper 
 lipped in the white of an egg slightly beaten. 
 
 CURRANT-JELL T. 
 
 After removing the stems from ripe currants, put them 
 )ver the fire, and break them until they yield their juice ; 
 hen strain it through a jelly-bag, and make the jelly as di- 
 ected in the recipes for other fruit-jellies, allowing a pound 
 )f sugar to each pint of juice. 
 
 BLACKBERRY AND APPLE JAM. 
 
 Use equal weights of blackberries, and fresh apples peeled 
 md cored ; put the fruit into a preserving-kettle with an 
 :qual weight of sugar, and place it over a moderate fire ; re- 
 nove all scum as it rises, and boil the jam for three-quar- 
 ers of an hour, stirring it frequently ; then cool it, and put 
 t up as already directed for other jams. 
 
 BARB ERR T-JAM. 
 
 Allow equal weights of barberries and brown sugar ; pick 
 )ver the barberries, remove the stems, and weigh the ber- 
 ies; put them into the preserving-kettle with an equal 
 I'eight of sugar, and a gill of cold water for each pound of 
 ugarj let the sugar melt, and the fruit slowly reach the 
 )oiling-point, stirring it occasionally; when the fruit boils> 
 
550 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 put the kettle where its contents will simmer, and cook the 
 jam slowly for an hour, stirring it occasionally to prevent 
 burning ; when the fruit looks clear, and is of the proper 
 consistency for jam, take the kettle off the fire, let the jam 
 cool, and then put it into glass or earthen jars or jelly- 
 glasses ; cover the surface of the jam with a round, piece of ■ 
 white paper wet with brandy, and then seal the jars air- 
 tight. 
 
 BARBEBR Y-JELL Y. 
 
 Pick over sound berries, weigh them, put them into the 
 preserving-kettle with water enough to prevent burning, and 
 boil the berries to a pulp ; pour the berries and their juice 
 into a jelly-bag, and let the juice run through the bag with- 
 out pressure ; to each pint of juice add a pound of sugar ; 
 boil the sugar and juice together, removing all scum which 
 may rise, until a little cooled on a saucer becomes firm ; 
 then cool the jelly a little, and put it up in glasses, covered 
 with paper to exclude ihe air. 
 
 BARBERR Y-JAM. 
 
 After making jelly, weigh the berries which remain in the 
 jelly-bag, put them into the preserving- kettle with an equal 
 amount of brown sugar, and boil them to a thick jam, re- 
 moving all scum which rises, and stirring them to prevent 
 sticking to the kettle or burning; when the jam is done, 
 cool it a little, and put it up in air-tight jars or glasses cov- 
 ered with paper. 
 
 PRESERVED MULBERRIES. 
 
 Put two quarts of mulberries over the fire in a porcelain- 
 lined kettle, after they have been carefully looked over, and 
 the stems removed, and let them stand until they yield their 
 juice ; then squeeze them, and strain their juice ; to each 
 pint of mulberry -juice add two pounds of sugar; put the 
 
DESSERT. 551 
 
 igar and juice over the fire, and boil and skim them until 
 ley are clear ; meantime, pick over more mulberries ; 
 low two quarts of berries to the above-named quantity of 
 igar and juice ; put them over the fire, and cook them 
 :ntly until they are just tender, but not broken ; when the 
 5rries are tender, let them stand over night in the sirup ; 
 le next day skim the berries out of the sirup, and put 
 lem into glass jars ; put the sirup over the fire, and boil it 
 (itil it begins to thicken; then pour it over the berries, 
 ose the jars, and seal them air-tight. 
 
 PRESERVED ELDERBERRIES. 
 
 Use three parts of elderberries, one part of the pulp of 
 reen grapes prepared as directed below, and an equal 
 eight of sugar ; pick the grapes from the stems, put them 
 rer the fire, and soften them with gentle heat until the pulp 
 m be separated from the seeds by rubbing through a col- 
 ider ; while the grapes are being softened, pick the elder- 
 srries from the stems ; put the sugar, grape-pulp, and 
 derberries over the fire in a porcelain-lined kettle, and 
 ew them gently until the sirup begins to thicken, removing 
 1 scum as it rises ; then cool them a little, put them 
 ito glass jars, and seal them air-tight. 
 
 ELDERBERRY AND GRAPE JELLY. 
 
 Use one third of ripe grapes, and two thirds of ripe elder- 
 irries free from stems ; put them over the fire in a pre- 
 :rving-kettle, and cook them slowly until the juice flows 
 eely ; then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let them drain 
 itil all the juice is extracted. To each pint of the juice 
 id a pint of granulated sugar ; put them into the preserv- 
 g-kettle, set it over the fire, and stir until the sugar is dis- 
 ilved ; continue the boiling until a little of the jelly cooled 
 1 a saucer stiffens ; then partly cool it, pour it into jelly- 
 
552 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 glasses, and when the jelly is, quite cold cover the glasses 
 with white paper fastened with white of egg or mucilage. 
 
 PRESERVED GRAPES. 
 
 Pick ripe, sound grapes from the stems, and weigh them ; 
 squeeze the pulp from the skins, and save each in a sepa- 
 rate vessel ; use as many pounds of sugar as there are 
 grapes ; put the sugar into the preserving-kettle with half a 
 pint of water to each pound, and let it boil, skimming it 
 until it is clear ; then put the pulp of the grapes into this 
 sirup, and let them boil for two minutes ; next turn the 
 grape-pulp and sirup into a fine hair sieve, and rub them 
 through it with a potato-masher, or a wooden spoon, to free 
 them from seeds ; then put them again into the preserving- 
 kettle, together with the grape-skins, return it to the fire, 
 and let its contents boil for about two minutes, or until the 
 skins grow plump and full; after that, cool the preserve, 
 and put it up in glass jars, as already directed in other 
 preserve recipes. 
 
 GRAPE JELLY. 
 
 Jelly can be made from either ripe or green grapes by fol- 
 lowing any of the jelly recipes. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Choose perfectly sound, ripe gooseberries, remove the 
 tops and stems, and wash and dry them ; weigh them, and 
 allow an equal weight of sugar ; to each pound of sugar 
 allow half a pint of water ; put the sugar and water in a pre- 
 serving-kettle over the fire, and boil and skim it until it is 
 perfectly clear ; then put the gooseberries into an earthen 
 bowl, and pour the boiling sirup over them ; turn a plate 
 over the berries to keep them under the sirup, and let them 
 stand in it until the next day. The next day, put the fruit 
 and sirup in the preserving-kettie, and boil them gently tc 
 
DESSERT. 553 
 
 gather until the gooseberries look clear. Cool the goose- 
 berries in the preserving-kettle, and then put them up as 
 already directed for other preserves, in glass jars, carefully 
 excluding the air. 
 
 JELLIED GOOSEBERRIES. 
 
 Pick over gooseberries, removing the tops and stems, and 
 separating the largest ones from the rest; put the smaller 
 gooseberries into a preserving-kettle, adding half a pint of 
 water to each quart of berries, and stew them to a pulp ; 
 then pour them into a jelly-bag, and let them drain all night. 
 The next day put fhe large gooseberries over the fire in a 
 saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and stew 
 them gently until they begin tp grow tender ; then skim 
 them out of the boiling water,. and put them into a pan of 
 cold water. Meantime, measure the juice from the goose- 
 berries already cooked, and allow a pound of sugar to each 
 pint of juice ; put the fruit-juice and sugar into the preserv- 
 ing-kettle, heat, and stir them together, removing all scum 
 which rises when the sirup begins to boil ; when the sirup is 
 quite clear, drain the large berries, put them into it, and boil 
 them until they look clear; then skim them out, and put 
 them into glasses or glass jars ; continue to boil the sirup 
 until a little of it jellies when cooled on a saucer ; then 
 remove it from the fire, partly cool it, and pour it over the 
 preserved gooseberries; when they are quite cold, close 
 them from the air, as directed for other preserves. 
 
 RED-GOOSEBERRY JAM. 
 
 Remove the tops and stems from three pounds of ripe red 
 gooseberries, and strip a pound of red currants from the 
 stems ; put the fruit over the fire in the preserving- kettle, 
 heat it gradually, and stir it frequently to prevent burning ; 
 when the fruit begins to break, add to it three pounds of 
 
554 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 sugar, and continue the boiling, stirring the jam almost con- 
 stantly to prevent burning ; let it boil steadily for about half 
 an hour, or until ar little of it cooled on a saucer seems of the 
 proper consistency ; then partly cool it, and put in jars or 
 glasses ; when the jam is quite cold, put a piece of paper 
 wet in brandy in each jar, aijd close them all air-tight. 
 
 GREEN- GOOSEBERRY JAM. 
 
 Pick over green gooseberries, remove the tops and stems, 
 wash them, and then put them into a preserving-kettle with 
 half a cupful of cold water to each pound of gooseberries ; 
 set them over the fire until they begin to soften ; then add 
 to them an equal weight of sugar, and continue the boiling 
 until a little of the jam cboled on a saucer is as thick as 
 jelly ; after the sugar is added, the jam must be stirred fre- 
 quently to prevent burning; and when iL begins to grow 
 thick it must be stirred incessantly, or it will surely burn. 
 The jam must boil about three-quarters of an hour. When 
 it is done, remove the preserving-kettle from the fire, and 
 partly cool the jam ; then put it up, as directed for other 
 preserves, carefully excluding the air. 
 
 JELLIED CRANBERRIES. 
 
 Pick over and wash two quarts of cranberries, put them 
 into a porcelain-lined saucepan with sufficient cold water to 
 cover them ; place the saucepan over the fire, and slowly 
 stew the fruit until it is soft enough to be pressed through a 
 fine sieve with a potato-masher ; to each pint of the cran- 
 berry-pulp add a pound of fine white sugar ; put the cran- 
 berry-pulp and sugar over the fire, and boil them, stirring 
 them constantly, for about fifteen minutes, or until a little of 
 the jelly cooled on a, saucer thickens to the desired consist- 
 ency ; when the jelly is properly boiled, pour it into moulds 
 wet in cold water, and let it cool until it is firm. It is then 
 
DESSERT. 555 
 
 ready for use. Serve the jellied cranberries with chicken 
 pot-pie ; or use them for cranberry tart, or as a sauce. 
 
 RHUBARB-JELL Y. 
 
 Wash and peel some garden rhubarb or pie-plant, and 
 cut it in inch pieces ; weigh it, and allow an equal weight of 
 sugar ; put the sugar and rhubarb together in a porcelain- 
 lined preserving-kettle over the fire where it cannot burn, 
 and boil it gently until the rhubarb is almost entirely dis- 
 solved ; then pour it into a jelly-bag to drain. When all the 
 juice has run through the bag, put it again over the fire, and 
 boil it for about twenty minutes, or until a few drops of it 
 will jelly when let fall into a glass of ice-water, or cooled on 
 a saucer ; while the jelly is boiling, remove all scum that 
 rises ; when it is done, put it up in glasses, sealing them air- 
 tight when the jelly is cold. 
 
 Any rhubarb remaining in the jelly-bag can be sweetened 
 and used on the table. 
 
 RHUBARB MARMALADE. 
 
 Peel and slice any desired quantity of garden rhubarb 
 or pie-plant ; put it into a preserving-kettle with an equal 
 weight of sugar, and the grated yellow rind and juice of one 
 lemon to each pound of rhubarb ; stir it often enough to 
 prevent burning, remove all scum as it rises, and boil the 
 marmalade until a little of it jellies when cooled on a saucer. 
 When the marmalade is partly cooled, put it into glasses or 
 glass jars ; when it is quite cold, lay a round of paper dipped 
 in brandy in each glass or jar, and then seal them quite air- 
 tight. Keep the marmalade in a cool, dark place. 
 
 RHUBARB-JAM. 
 
 Use equal weights of garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, and 
 sugar, and to each pound of rhubarb one lemon ; peel the 
 
556 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 thin yellow rind of the lemons into a large bowl, then cut 
 away the thick white part of the skin, and slice the pulp of 
 the lemons into the bowl, removing all the seeds ; peel and 
 slice the rhubarb about half an inch thick, put it into the 
 bowl, and put the sugar over it ; let the fruit and sugar stand 
 over night. The next morning put all these ingredients into 
 a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle, and boil them for three- 
 quarters of an hour over a very gentle fire, then cool the 
 jam, and put it up as already directed -in preserve recipes. 
 
 STRAWBERRY PRESERVES. 
 
 The three recipes for strawberry preserves have been in 
 use in the School of Cookery for several years, and have been 
 published several times ; and, as they are entirely satisfac- 
 tory, the author sees no reason for altering them. The 
 Wiesbaden recipe is especially good. 
 
 Choose large, rather acid berries, of firm flesh, and not 
 over-ripe ; hull them, and if there is any sand on them wash 
 and drain them; weigh the berries, and allow an equal 
 weight of sugar ; in the bottom of a porcelain-lined preserv- 
 ing-kettle put a layer of sugar, and then fill the kettle with 
 layers of fruit and sugar, having a thick layer of sugar on 
 top ; cover the kettle, and let the berries stand over night in 
 the sugar. The next morning put the preserving-kettle over 
 the fire without disturbing its contents, and boil the berries 
 gently until they look clear, removing all scum as it rises, 
 and taking care not to let the berries break. When the 
 berries are clear, set the preserving-kettle off the fire, and let 
 its contents cool, keeping the kettle covered ; then transfer 
 the berries to glass jars, lay a round of white paper wet in 
 brandy over each one, and close the jars air-tight. If the 
 preserves are put up in tumblers, seal them from the air with 
 paper dipped in the white of egg slightly beaten. 
 
DESSERT. 557 
 
 WIESBADEN PRESERVES. 
 
 The following recipe is copied from the admirable House- 
 hold Department of the " Philadelphia Ledger," and has 
 been found excellent upon trial. 
 
 Three or four hours before they are to be bottled, or, if 
 the weather is cool, the night before, remove the hulls from 
 freshly picked berries. As the berries are hulled, place them 
 in earthen dishes, adding sugar plentifully, as if preparing 
 them for immediate use on the table. Be careful to add the 
 sugar so that it will be mixed through the berries without 
 having to stir them. Set the dishes away in a cool place. 
 When ready to bottle them, pour off the juice which the 
 sugar will have extracted from the berries ; place it in a 
 kettle, adding a httle water, in the proportion of one small 
 cupful to four quarts of juice ; this will be about the quan- 
 tity that will evaporate from the juice while boiling. As 
 soon as the juice is boiling, put in enough berries to fill one 
 bottle. Stir them down very gently ; let them stay in about 
 two minutes, then lift out with a strainer, so as to take no 
 juice with them ; fill the bottle two-thirds full, and place it 
 in a pan of hot water to keep warm. Proceed in the same 
 way until all the berries have been used, taking only enough 
 for one bottle at a time. Then fill each bottle up with 
 the boiling juice, put a teaspoonful of sweet olive-oil in the 
 neck (the secret of the famous Wiesbaden preserved fruits), 
 and seal quickly. Put up in this way, strawberries keep 
 their color and taste. The oil prevents the penetration of 
 any air to the fruit. 
 
 STRA WBERR Y-JAM. 
 
 Use small or crushed berries, carefully rejecting all de- 
 cayed ones; prepare them as directed for preserves, and 
 allow three-quarters of their weight in sugar ; crush the 
 berries and sugar in the preserving-kettle with a potato- 
 
5S8 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 masher or a wooden spoon, and then heat them together and 
 boil them for about half an hour, or until a little jam cooled 
 on a saucer looks thick and clear ; remove all scum as it 
 rises ; when the jam is done, cool it, and put it up as direct- 
 ed in the recipe for strawberry preserves. 
 
 Another method of making the jam is to crush the berries 
 and sugar together, and let them stand two or three hours 
 before cooking them. 
 
 FLORIDA ORANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Grate off the yellow rind of nine large oranges ; add to 
 the grated rind the juice of three large lemons ; remove the 
 thick white rind from the grated oranges, and all the rind 
 from nine more ; weigh the eighteen oranges, and allow an 
 equal weight of white sugar. Put the grated rind, lemon- 
 juice, and sugar over the fire, and let them boil ; meantime 
 free the pulp and juice of the oranges from all the white 
 skin, and add them to the boiling sugar ; boil the' marma- 
 lade slowly until a little of it cooled on a saucer jellies. Put 
 it away as directed in the recipe for other marmalades. 
 
 PRESERVED TOMATOES. 
 
 Use small yellow tomatoes, perfectly ripe and sound ; pour 
 boiling water over them, and then peel them, being careful 
 to keep them entire. Weigh the tomatoes, and allow an 
 equal quantity of sugar ; to each pound of sugar use half a 
 lemon thinly sliced, the seeds being removed ; put the sugar 
 and lemons into the preserving-kettle, with just enough water 
 to moisten the sugar, and slowly heat it until it dissolves ; 
 boil it and skim it until it is clear ; then put in the toma- 
 toes, and boil them gently for three-quarters of an hour. 
 Cool the tomatoes, and then put them up as directed in 
 other preserve recipes. 
 
DESSERT. 559 
 
 TOMATO-JELLY. 
 
 Stew a quart of tomatoes, with a palatable seasoning of 
 salt and pepper, to a soft pulp ; strain this pulp through a 
 very fine sieve or a jelly-bag ; to each pint of the strained 
 tomato add half a cupful of white sugar, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of corn-starch dissolved in half a cupful of cold water ; 
 put these ingredients over the fire, and stir them until they 
 have boiled for one minute ; then cool the jelly. Serve it 
 with broiled, fried, baked, or roasted meats. 
 
 TOMATO- JAM. 
 
 Scald ripe sound tomatoes, peel them, put them over the 
 fire in a preserving-kettle, and cook them gently until they 
 are tender enough to be rubbed through a sieve with a 
 potato-masher ; weigh the pulp, put it again into the kettle 
 with an equal weight of sugar ; to each pound add the 
 grated rind and juice of two lemons, and boil the jam until 
 it looks clear, and is thick when a little is cooled on a 
 saucer. Then cool it a little, and put it up in air-tight glass 
 jars, or in glasses with paper pasted over the tops. 
 
 TOMATO-FIGS. 
 
 Use the small yellow tomatoes; scald the tomatoes, re- 
 move the skins without breaking the fruit, and weigh it; 
 allow half as much sugar as there is fruit ; pack the toma- 
 toes and sugar in layers in earthen jars, and let them stand 
 for twenty-four hours. Then drain the juice from the fruit, 
 add to it a pound of sugar for each pint of juice, put them 
 together in a preserving-kettle over the fire, and boil them ; 
 when the sirup thus made is boiling, put in the tomatoes, 
 and continue the boiling until they look cle^ir, removing all 
 scum as it rises ; when the tomatoes look clear, pour them 
 into earthen jars, and let them stand for two days. Then 
 
56o PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 again drain off the sirup, boil it up once, pour it again ovet 
 the fruit, and let them stand two days longer. At the end 
 of that time take the tomatoes from the sirup, lay them on 
 sieves or dishes, and dry them for a week, putting them in 
 the sun every day, and turning them over twice a day ; if 
 the weather should be damp, the tomato-figs should be dried 
 in a warm room. When they are quite dry, pack them in 
 wooden boxes, with dry sugar between the layers, and keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 PRESERVED CITRON MELON. 
 
 After the melon is peeled, weigh it ; to each pound allow 
 a pound of sugar, an ounce of green ginger-root, a lemon, 
 and half a pint of water ; scrape the ginger-root, and tie 
 it in a clean cloth with the yellow rind of the lemon pared 
 very thin; squeeze the juice of the lemon, and strain it; 
 put the sugar and water over the fire, and let them heat to- 
 gether, and begin to boil, removing all scum as it rises; 
 when the sirup is free from scum, put in the melon-rind, 
 ginger, and lemon peel and juice, and boil all together until 
 the melon looks clear, removing any scum which may rise. 
 Then let the preserve cool in the kettle, and put it into 
 glass jars after it is cool, leaving the ginger and lemon with 
 it, if their flavor is desired, distributing them among the 
 jars of citron. 
 
 WATERMELON PRESERVE. 
 
 The rind of watermelons may be preserved in the same 
 way, after making it green, if the deep color is desired, 
 according to the directions given in the recipe for spiced 
 watermelon pickle, or for brandied green gages. 
 
 PRESERVED PUMPKIN. 
 
 Pare a sound pumpkin, first cutting it in pieces about an 
 inch wide and two inches long; scrape out the seeds, and 
 
DESSERT. S6l 
 
 then boil the pumpkin until it is tender enough to pierce 
 easily with a straw ; then drain the pumpkin, and weigh it ; 
 allow a pound of sugar to a pound of pumpkin, and a lemon 
 to each four pounds ; slice the lemon, put it with the sugar, 
 add a giU of water to each pound of sugar, and let it boil 
 until a clear sirup is formed, removing all scum as it rises ; 
 then put in the pumpkin, and boil it gently until it is clear ; 
 cool the preserve, and then put it up as directed for other 
 preserves. 
 
 PRESERVED GRAPE-FRUIT. 
 
 Peel off the rind of several large grape-fruit, putting them 
 into plenty of salted cold water as fast as they are peeled ; 
 when all are ready, put them into the preserving-kettle, 
 cover them with warm water, and let them boil slowly; 
 change the water every ten minutes, always replacing that 
 poured away with more warm water, and boil the grape-fruit 
 until they can easily be pierced with a broom-straw ; then 
 put them on a sieve to drain. In the preserving-kettle, put 
 one and a half pounds of loaf-sugar and half a cupful of 
 cold water for each pound of fruit, and boil and skim this 
 sirup ; while it is being boiled, cut into the stem-ends of the 
 grape-fhiit with a sharp small knife, and remove the stringy 
 pith in the middle of the fruit ; when the sirup has been 
 skimmed clear, put the grape-fruit into it, and boil it until it 
 is transparent. Put the grape-fruit into wide-mouthed jars, 
 and continue to boil the sirup ; when a litde of the sirup 
 cooled on a saucer jellies slightly, pour it over the grape- 
 fruit, and let the fruit cool in the sirup. When both fruit 
 and sirup are cold, lay a piece of paper wet in brandy in 
 each jar, and seal them air-tight. 
 
 TUTTI FRUTTI PRESERVE. 
 
 A good preserve can easily be made from fresh fruit as it 
 ripens by following these directions : Put into a two-gallon 
 
562 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 wide-mouthed earthen or glass jar a quart of the best white 
 French brandy \ use any fruit, beginning with strawberries, 
 and every day thoroughly stir the preserve with a wooden 
 spoon J for every poiSnd of fruit, add three-quarters of a 
 pound of granulated sugar; put the fruit into the jar fresh; 
 the berries are put in whole ; cherries, apricots, peaches, and 
 plums are stoned, the three last also being peeled and quar- 
 tered ; grapes are seeded, the skins being removed at pleas- 
 ure. After the last fruit is added, leave the preserve for a 
 week before using it ; keep the jar covered all the time, 
 except when adding the fruit and stirring it. - 
 
 BAKED APPLES. 
 
 Choose firm tart apples ; peel them, cut them in eighths, 
 core them, and put them into a two-quart earthen dish ; to 
 this quantity add one cupful each of light-brown sugar and 
 water ; cover the dish, place it in a moderate oven, and bake 
 the apples for three hours, or until they are red ; serve them 
 hot in the same dish, with cream, after dinner ; or remove 
 them to a glass or china dish, let them cool, and then dust 
 them with powdered sugar, and serve them for supper, either 
 with or without cream. Fresh cream sweetened, and 
 whipped to a froth, and then placed on the baked apples, 
 makes a very nice dessert. 
 
 STEWED GOOSEBERRIES. 
 
 Pick over a quart of green gooseberries, remove the tops 
 and stems, then throw them into fast-boiling water, and let 
 them remain two minutes ; then drain them, and let them 
 stand for two minutes in sufficient cold water to entirely 
 cover them, and then drain them again. When the goose- 
 berries are first put over the fire, put a pound of sugar into 
 a preserving-kettle with half a cupful of cold water, and let 
 it boil ; remove all scum as it rises, and when the sirup is 
 
DESSERr. 563 
 
 clear, put in the gooseberries, and stew them until they are 
 tender, but do not cook them until they break ; when they 
 are tender, skim them out of the sirup, and put them in a 
 glass or china dish. Boil the sirup until a little of it cooled 
 on a saucer jellies slightly, then pour it over the gooseberries. 
 Serve them cold. 
 
 FRIED BANANAS. 
 
 Strip the skin from four bananas, and cut them in half; 
 inch slices. The yellowish kind, called plantains, not quite 
 ripe, are the best for this dish. Have ready over the fire a 
 frying-pan containing about half an inch of fat, smoking 
 hot ; put the bananas into the hot fat, brown them quickly, 
 dust them with salt and pepper, and serve them hot. If 
 fried bananas are required for dessert, sugar should be sub- 
 stituted for salt and pepper. 
 
 FRIED PEACHES. 
 
 Cut in halves a dozen firm, ripe freestone peaches ; have 
 ready over the fire a dripping-pan containing smoking-hot 
 fat half an inch deep ; lay the peaches in the pan, the cut 
 side down, as fast as they are cut, and fry them light-brown ; 
 as soon as the side next the pan is done, turn them over, 
 without breaking them, and heat the other side. The mo- 
 ment they are heated through, arrange them on a hot plat- 
 ter, with the cut side up, put a little powdered sugar in 
 each, and serve them hot for dessert. 
 
 PEACHES STEWED IN WINE. 
 
 Put into a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle one pint of 
 sherry or madeira, one pint of cold water, and two pounds 
 of cut loaf-sugar ; place the kettle over the fire, let the sirup 
 boil slowly, and skim it until it is quite free from scum; 
 meantime peel firm freestone peaches, cut them in halves, 
 and drop them into cold water to preserve their color ; when 
 
564 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 the sirup is clear, put in as many peaches as will boil with- 
 out" crowding; cook them gently until they begin to look 
 clear; then take them up with a skimmer, and put them 
 into glass dishes or jars without breaking them ; continue to 
 cook the peaches in this way until there is only about a pint 
 and a half of the sirup ; boil this down to a pint, and pour 
 it hot over the peaches. They may be used as soon as they 
 are cold, or put up in air-tight jars for future use. 
 
 pnsrEAFPi,ES 
 
 This delicious fruit is of late years so abundant and cheap 
 that it well deserves the attention of good housekeepers. It 
 is an excellent dessert fruit, and, if quite ripe, is far less un- 
 wholesome than is generally supposed. As served usually, 
 it is peeled, sliced, and sugared before it is sent to the table ; 
 but more of its flavor and juice are preserved if it is served 
 with the skin on, in English fashion, or in West-Indian style, 
 as directed below ; either way it can easily be handled, for 
 a knife and fork are always required to cut it readily, a tea- 
 spoon being quite inadequate for that purpose. Perfectly 
 ripe pineapples do not really require sugar; but as many 
 prefer to use it, it is well to place a dish of powdered sugar 
 on the table with the fruit. The beauty of the fruit is in its 
 shape and color, and these are lost if it is entirely cut up 
 before being served. In England, where pineapples are 
 always the greatest luxuries, they are cut in horizontal slices 
 with a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, the slices being kept 
 together, and the crown being left on the fruit, which is 
 placed in the centre of a dish of assorted fruit as the chief 
 ornament of the dessert. The pineapple can also be cut 
 from the crown to the base in wedge-shaped slices, the 
 middle being left just entire enough to hold the slice.s in 
 place until they are needed for serving ; they can then be 
 readily dislodged with a thin, sharp knife, and served with 
 a silver knife and fork. 
 
n ESSE NT. 
 
 565 
 
 ICED PINEAPPLE. 
 
 Take a ripe pineapple by the crown, holding it in the left 
 hand over a large dish ; with a very sharp, thin knife remove 
 the skin and eyes ; then grate it off the core into the same 
 dish, using a large tin grater, which should be very clean 
 and bright ; while grating the fruit, hold it by the crown in 
 the right hand, and steady the grater firmly in the left ; after 
 the pineapple is grated, put it into a glass dish, dust a little 
 powdered sugar over it, pour upon it a glass of sherry, and 
 put it for an hour in the ice-box; then serve it very cold. 
 In Europe, porcelain and marbleized fruit-graters are made 
 at china manufactories. 
 
 BANANAS AND ORANGES. 
 
 Peel three bananas, — the red sort is the best for this dish, 
 -^ slice them crosswise, and lay them on a dish ; just before 
 serving them, squeeze the juice of an orange over them, dust 
 them thickly with powdered sugar, and serve them at once. 
 The bananas should be very cold before they are peeled. 
 
 A variation of this dish is made by cutting the pulp of 
 three or four oranges with the bananas, instead of using the 
 juice. Whipped cream, and cream and sugar, are some- 
 times served with them. 
 
 AMBROSIA. 
 
 Pare and grate a pineapple as directed in the recipe for 
 iced pineapple ; peel half a dozen large Florida oranges, 
 and tear their pulp away from the inner membranes, reject- 
 ing the seeds, and preserving all the juice ; remove the shell 
 and brown skin from a cocoanut, and grate it, saving the 
 milk; put the pineapple, orange, and cocoanut in layers 
 in a glass dish, slightly sprinkling each layer with powdered 
 sugar ; mix with the milk of the cocoanut any of the pine- 
 apple and orange juice which may remain in the dishes in 
 
t.66 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 which they have been pressed, add to them a glass of Ja- 
 maica rum, and as much sugar as will sweeten them moder- 
 ately ; keep the sirup thus made, and the ambrosia, in a very 
 cold place until it is wanted for the table ; then pour the 
 sirup over the ambrosia, and serve it at once. 
 Ambrosia is best when freshly prepared. 
 
 ICET3 BASPBEBBIES FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Choose large, sound raspberries, remove the hulls, and 
 examine the berries carefully to make sure they contain no 
 insects ; beat together the white of an egg and two table- 
 spoonfuls of cold water ; dip the berries singly in the beaten 
 egg and water, roll them at once in powdered sugar, and lay 
 them apart from each other on sheets of white letter-paper 
 until they are quite dry ; they may dry slowly, so that it is 
 best to allow five or six hours ; when they are dry, keep 
 them in a cool, dry place until dinner-time, and then serve 
 them for dessert. 
 
 ICED STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 After the berries are hulled, put them into a deep glass or 
 china dish in layers with powdered sugar ; then pour over 
 them, for each quart, a wineglassful of any fruit-juice or 
 fruit-wine, and place the dish in a refrigerator for at least 
 an hour before serving. Just before serving the berries,- 
 sprinkle them with finely pounded ice and then with pow- 
 dered sugar. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 
 
 After hulling the berries, put them into a glass or china 
 dish in layers with powdered sugar, and place the dish in a 
 cold place. Mix together one pint of cream, the whites of 
 three eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and 
 
DESSERT. 567 
 
 whip the mixture for one minute ; then let it rest for a 
 minute, skim off the froth, and put it into a colander set in 
 a bowl ; again whip and skim the cream ; and so proceed 
 until all the cream is whipped, occasionally turning back 
 into the whipping-bowl the cream which drains from the 
 colander. Keep the whipped cream very cold, and just 
 before serving the strawberries lay it over them in a light 
 mass. 
 
 PEACHES WITH ORANGES. 
 
 A variety of canned peaches, which are exceedingly nice, 
 are put up with what is called heavy sirup ; they are cut in 
 thin slices, and the sirup has much sugar in it ; to prepare 
 this dish, first drain the sliced peaches, saving all the sirup 
 in which they are preserved ; dissolve in this sirup as much 
 sugar as it will contain ; then peel for each small can of 
 peaches half a dozen ripe oranges ; slice them thin, remov- 
 ing all the seeds J put the sliced oranges and peaches in 
 layers on a dish, with a plentiful sprinkling of powdered 
 sugar ; pour the sirup over them, and then serve them. 
 
 GRAPE-FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 The Florida grape-fruit makes a most refreshing dish for 
 breakfast. It is a clear-skinned, lemon-colored fruit, three 
 3r four times as large as an orange, otherwise closely resem- 
 bling that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, but its juicy pulp is 
 mclosed in a tough white inner membrane of intensely bit- 
 :er taste ; when this membrane is carefully removed, the fruit 
 s a delicious tonic. To prepare grape-fruit for the table, 
 ;ut the skin in strips, and peel it off; separate the sections 
 )f the fruit like an orange, and, holding each section by the 
 ;nds, break it open, disclosing the pulp ; tear the pulp in 
 ather small pieces out of its bitter white envelope, carefully 
 
568 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 removing every trace of the latter; put the pulp into a 
 deep dish, with a plentiful sprinkling of fine white sugar, 
 and let it stand over night in a cool place. Use it at the 
 beginning of breakfast; it is exceedingly refreshing and 
 wholesome. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 BEVERAGES, AND SUGGESTIONS FOR THE DIET 
 OF INVALIDS AND CHILDREN. 
 
 THE number of beverages is proportionate to the pro- 
 verbial thirst of mankind ; but, in the limited space 
 available, few can be mentioned. After the usual domestic 
 drinks of tea, coffee, and chocolate or cocoa, some good 
 temperance beverages are given, together with fruit sirups 
 and cordials, upon which they may be based. Then follow 
 a few of the drinks usually ordered by physicians in illness 
 and convalescence ; and some of the cups and punches gen- 
 erally used for garden-parties. 
 
 The diet for invalids and children can only be outlined 
 here, for lack of space, and because it is treated exhaustively 
 in a larger work by the author in the Harpers' press. 
 
 Dishes for invalids should combine nutriment with diges- 
 tibility, and be attractive and appetizing; above all, their 
 ingredients should be perfectly fresh ; and not many mgre- 
 dients should enter into one dish. Among the dishes suit- 
 able for invalids included in this book are ; clear soup, bouil- 
 ion, .chicken and rice soup, cream oyster and clam soups, 
 roast and broiled oysters, boiled and broiled salmon, Girard 
 trout, fresh mackerel broiled, poached and shirred eggs and 
 omelets, sweetbreads broiled and baked, tripe broiled and 
 stewed, broiled chops and steaks, broiled chicken and game 
 birds, calf 's-foot and wine jellies, and some of the delicate 
 puddings. Fruit must be subject to the doctor's selection ; 
 
 569 
 
570 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 as also must be special diets of milk, beef, etc., because all 
 changes in diet are to be carefully made. Some few good 
 dishes are added to those already mentioned. 
 
 FILTERING WATER OR SIRUP. 
 
 When drinking-water is muddy, it can be cleared by filter- 
 ing it as shown in the accompanying pictures ; the first one 
 represents the folding of a round piece of filtering-paper, 
 such as can be procured at the druggist's ; the folded paper 
 is laid inside a funnel set in the neck of a decanter, and the 
 water is allowed to run through the paper slowly. If smooth 
 decanters or carafes are used, the water can be frozen in 
 them after it is filtered, by following the directions given in the 
 recipe for frozen carafes. For filtering sirup, a clean piece 
 of thin chamois is excellent ; the chamois should be washed 
 in borax-water every time it is used, and very carefully 
 rinsed in clear water ; if borax is not at hand, a small piece 
 of washing-soda may be dissolved in the water in which the 
 chamois is washed, and it can then be thoroughly rinsed. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 The making of good coffee depends upon two operations ; 
 the straining to make it clear, and the infusion to extract its 
 flavor and aroma. It is possible to make clear coffee without 
 either straining or so-called settling; this point has been 
 fully discussed in other works by this author, so that it need 
 not be repeated here. Coffee may be strained by using 
 coffee-pots containing percolators or wire-gauze strainers, 
 or by enclosing the coffee in cotton bags of different shapes ; 
 actually boiling water is then to be poured upon it ; but it 
 must not be boiled unless it is wanted black and bitter, be- 
 cause boiling extracts its tannic acid. These points have 
 been treated exhaustively in the books already published by 
 the author. Two ounces of finely ground coffee to a quart 
 
BEVERAGES. 
 
 571 
 
 Folded Filtering Paper. 
 
 Filtering DrInking-Water. 
 
572 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 of boiling water will make a medium strong beverage. Use 
 boiling milk with it. 
 
 FRENCH COFFEE. 
 
 French coffee is made by mixing half an ounce of ground 
 chicory with a quarter of a pound of coffee ; put the coffee 
 into the pot, and stir it over the fire until it is hot ; then 
 crush one egg with the shell, and add it to the coffee, to- 
 gether with two quarts of cold water ; stir the coffee occasion- 
 ally until it is scalding hot, but not boiling, and then put the 
 pot at the side of the fire, where it cannot boil, for five min- 
 utes or longer. Use boiling milk with it. 
 
 caf:ei noir. 
 
 For cafe noir, or black coffee, use a cupful of coffee to a 
 quart of boiling water ; and if the coffee is wanted very black 
 and bitter, boil it for a few minutes. Do not use milk with 
 it. 
 
 GLORIA. 
 
 The form of black coffee called gloria by the French is 
 rather an accident "than a deliberately composed beverage. 
 In all French households, it is the custom to serve cognac 
 among the liqueurs after dinner, with the black coffee ; and 
 so far does the custom now prevail in this country, that in 
 many of the hotels and restaurants a demi-tasse, or small 
 glass of brandy, accompanies the small cup of black coffee 
 served after dinner, unless cafe a la creme has been specified. 
 After the black coffee is very much sweetened, a teaspoonful 
 of brandy is poured upon the surface, and lighted ; when the 
 brandy is nearly burned away, the flame is blown out, and 
 the coffee drank. The effect of this beverage was so satis- 
 factory to its originators, that they marked their estimation 
 of it by calling it gloria. 
 
BEVERAGES. 573 
 
 TEA. 
 
 Tea should be an infusion made with boiling water, and 
 drank when freshly made ; boiling tea extracts its tannic 
 acid, and dissipates its aroma and flavor ; of good tea, two 
 teaspoonfuls to a pint of boiling water will make a moder- 
 ately strong beverage ; scald the teapot with boiling water, 
 pour out the water, put in the tea, pour on a pint of boiling 
 water, let the tea stand two or three minutes where it will 
 keep hot without boiling, and then use it. If it becomes too 
 strong by standing, pour more boiling water on it. 
 
 Like coffee, chocolate, and cocoa, tea has been fully 
 treated in the author's works already published. 
 
 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Chocolate is sold in the form of sweet and black chocolate ; 
 a small cake, weighing about an ounce, is allowed for a cup, 
 or half a pint, of thick chocolate ; shave or grate the choco- 
 late, melt it over the fire with half a cupful of water, stirring 
 it constantly ; then add half a pint of milk, and continue to 
 stir the chocolate until it boils, when it will be ready to use. 
 More water may be added if the chocolate is too thick. 
 
 COCOA. 
 
 Cocoa is made both from the beans and the shells of 
 cocoa. It requires boiling, — the shells long boiling, — to 
 completely extract its flavor and nutriment. Special direc- 
 tions usually accompany packages of cocoa. When they do 
 not, use about two ounces of the bean or cocoa nibs, or more 
 of the shells, to a quart of water ; boil the cocoa at least a 
 half-hour, and serve boiling milk with it. 
 
574 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 BOT COFFEE AND SODA. 
 
 For temperance advocates, hot black coffee mixed with 
 soda-water is a good substitute for the spirituous winter 
 drinks. Make black coffee as follows : — 
 
 A quarter of a pound of good coffee and a quarter of an 
 ounce of ground chiccory infused in a quart of boiling water, 
 but not boiled, will make medium strong coffee. Boiling 
 coffee makes it very black and bitter. Use hot black coffee 
 and soda-water in equal proportions, with a palatable addi- 
 tion of cream sirup, or condensed milk and sugar. 
 
 PINEAPPLE LEMONADE. 
 
 Carefully boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water until it 
 forms a thin sirup, removing all scum as it rises ; meantime 
 squeeze the juice from three large lemons, and remove their 
 seeds from it ; pare a ripe pineapple, take out the eyes, and ' 
 grate it into a large bowl ; add the lemon-juice to it, and the 
 sirup as soon as it is clear, and let the mixture cool and 
 stand for a couple of hours ; then add to it a quart of ice- 
 water, strain .it, and use it. 
 
 CURRANT- WA TER. 
 
 Pick over a pint of raspberries, and strip a quart of cur- 
 rants from the stems ; bruise the fruit in a preserving-kettle 
 with a wooden spoon, pour over it two quarts of cold watfer, 
 add half a pound of sugar, and set the kettle over a moder- 
 ate fire where its contents will heat gradually ; after the cur- 
 rant-water begins to boil, remove the kettle from the fire, 
 pour its entire contents into a flannel jelly-bag, and let the 
 currant-water drain through the bag. When it is quite 
 clear, cool it and ice it ; add sugar to taste, and use it cold 
 as a summer or temperance drink. 
 
BEVERAGES. 575 
 
 CBERRY WATER. 
 
 Keep the sirup in which cherries were boiled, in tightly 
 corked bottles ; and when a cool, refreshing beverage is 
 wanted, mix a wineglassful of the sirup with a glass of cold 
 water, sweetening it to taste. 
 
 CHERRY SIRUP. 
 
 Crush ripe cherries in a mortar, breaking the stones, and 
 then squeeze them in a cloth to extract all their juice ; with 
 each quart of juice mix a pound of sugar, and boil them to- 
 gether for ten minutes, removing all scum as it rises ; then 
 cool and bottle the sirup. Use it for flavoring pudding- 
 sauces, and in summer mix it with iced water as a cooling 
 and refreshing drink. 
 
 BLACKBERRY SIRUP. 
 
 Pick over ripe blackberries, crush them, and squeeze their 
 juice through a clean cloth ; make a sirup by boiling a pound 
 of sugar with a pint of water for ten minutes ; add a pint 
 of sirup to each pint of juice ; boil the sirup and blackberry- 
 juice together for fifteen minutes, after stirring them well 
 together ; then to each quart of the blackberry sirup thus 
 made, add a wineglassful of brandy ; when the sirup is quite 
 cold, bottle and seal it air-tight. 
 
 FLORIDA ORANGE WINE. 
 
 The process for making wine from oranges is not difficult, 
 and can be followed on a small scale, if one desires to try 
 the experiment at home, when oranges are cheap. Wipe 
 the oranges with a wet cloth, peel ofif the yellow rind very 
 thin, squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice through a 
 hair sieve; measure the juice after it is strained, and for 
 each gallon allow three pounds of granulated sugar, the 
 
S76 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 white and shell of one egg, and one-third of a gallon of cold 
 water; put the sugar, white and shell of the egg crushed 
 small, and the water, over the fire, and stir them every two 
 minutes until the egg begins to harden ; then boil the sirup 
 until it looks clear under the froth of egg which will form 
 on the surface ; strain the sirup, pour it upon the orange- 
 rind, and let it stand over night ; then next add the orange- 
 juice, and again let it stand over night ; strain it the second 
 day, and put it into a tight cask with a small cake of com- 
 pressed yeast to about ten gallons of wine, and leave the 
 bung out of the cask until the wine ceases to ferment ; the 
 hissing noise continues as long as fermentation is in progress ; 
 when fermentation ceases, close the cask by driving in the 
 bung, and let the wine stand about nine months before bot- 
 tling it ; three months after it is bottled, it can be used. A 
 glass of brandy added to each gallon of wine after fermenta- 
 tion ceases is generally considered an improvement. 
 
 NE-^-ENGLAND BOILED CIDER. 
 
 Use new, sweet cider ; boil it steadily until it is reduced 
 one-fourth in quantity, removing all scum as it rises ; cool it, 
 and bottle it, sealing down the corks ; a mould may form on 
 the top of the cider if it is kept a long time, but it will not 
 impair its quality. If possible, use cider not more than a 
 day or two old for boiling. 
 
 DIXIE PINEAPPLE CIDER. 
 
 Chop the rind of a large pineapple fine, and put it into 
 a pitcher with two quarts of cold water ; tie a thin cloth over 
 the pitcher, and let it stand until its contents ferment, which 
 will be in two or three days in warm weather ; then strain 
 off the water, sweeten it to taste, bottle it, winng the corks, 
 and lay the bottles on their sides for forty-eight hours ; the 
 • cider will then be ready to use. 
 
BEVERAGES. 577 
 
 WEST-INDIAN PINEAPPLE SHRUB. 
 
 Remove the crown from a large, ripe pineapple, pare it, 
 remove the eyes, and chop it very fine ; put it, with all its 
 juice, into a narrow-necked earthen bottle or jug ; add to it 
 one pound of sugar and four quarts of cold water, and shake 
 the jug for five minutes. Let the jug stand in a temperature 
 of about 90" F. for two or' three days, or until the shrub 
 begins to ferment ; after the shrub begins to ferment, cool 
 it on the ice, and then use it. It is sometimes mixed at 
 this stage with a freshly pared and grated pineapple and 
 half a pound mOre of sugar, and frozen in an ice-cream 
 freezer. So prepared, it is served like Roman punch. 
 
 PINEAPPLE RUM SHRUB. 
 
 Chop fine a large, ripe pineapple without paring it, put it 
 in a glass jar, cover it with the best Jamaica rum, close it, 
 and let it stand for three days. The third day, make a sirup 
 by boiling together a pound and a half of sugar and a pint 
 of water, and skimming it until it is clear, then strain and 
 cool it. Squeeze half a pint of juice from limes or lemons, 
 and strain it. Strain the rum from the pineapple, pressing 
 the fruit to extract all its juice. Mix the cold sirup, fruit- 
 juice, and pineapple-rum, with a quart more of the best 
 Jamaica rum, and bottle it for use. A wineglassful, or less, 
 in a glass of ice-water, makes a good summer drink. 
 
 CURRANT SHRUB. 
 
 Strip two quarts of ripe currants from the stems, put them 
 into a glass jar, set it in a pan of cold water, and place the 
 pan on the stove where the water will heat gradually ; let it 
 stand there for an hour or more, until the currants yield 
 their juice freely ; then strain the juice, and measure it ; to 
 each pint add six ounces of sugar, stining the sugar into the 
 
578 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 warm juice until it is dissolved ; then let it cool. When the 
 sirup so made is quite cold, add to each pint of it a quart 
 of Jamaica rum, and strain and bottle it. 
 
 PINEAPPLE BRANDY. 
 
 Pare a large, ripe pineapple, saving the rind to make pine- 
 apple cider, and slice it about a quarter of an inch thick ; 
 then weigh it, and use an equal weight of powdered sugar ; 
 put the fruit and sugar in layers in a large glass jar, with 
 sugar at the bottom and top ; pour into the jar enough of 
 the best brandy to stand an inch above the pineapple; 
 then close the jar- perfectly air-tight, and" keep it in a cool, 
 dry, dark closet for a month or longer. ' 
 
 Use the fruit for the table ; and the brandy, mixed with 
 soda-water or seltzer, for a drink in hot weather. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Use perfectly sound, ripe Morella cherries ; wipe each 
 one with a clean cloth, cut off the stems within an inch of 
 the fruit, and prick each cherry several times with a needle. 
 Blanch some shelled bitter almonds by pouring boiling water 
 on them, and then rubbing off the skins with a clean cloth ; 
 crush some rock-candy fine ; put the cherries into quart jars 
 of glass, half-filling the jars, and adding to each six almonds 
 and three ounces of candy ; fill the jars with the best brandy, 
 cork, and seal them air-tight, and keep them at least a 
 month. Use the fruit for dessert, and the brandy as desired. 
 
 RASPBERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Carefully hull and pick over a quart of fine raspberries, 
 bruise them, put them in a jar or wide bottle, and pour over 
 them two quarts of good brandy ; close the jar air-tight, and 
 let the berries remain in the brandy for two weeks. Then 
 put half a pound of sugar over the fire with half a cupful of 
 
BEVERAGES. 
 
 579 
 
 cold water, and boil it until it becomes a sirup of medium 
 consistency, removing all scum as it rises. Mix this sirup 
 with the fruit and brandy, pour the mixture into a jelly-bag, 
 and let it run through slowly ; then bottle it, and cork the 
 bottles, and keep them in a cool, dark closet for two weeks 
 longer. At the end of two weeks, filter it again, carefully 
 pouring it from the bottles to avoid disturbing the sediment, 
 and when the liquor is quite clear and bright, bottle it for 
 use. 
 
 RASPBERRY LIQUEUR. 
 
 Prepare berries according to the directions given in the 
 recipe for raspberry brandy, substituting any pure spirit pre- 
 ferred for the brandy ; bottle for use in the same way. 
 
 BLACKBERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Brtfise five pounds of blackberries ; add to them one 
 gallon of proof spirits, one-eighth of an ounce each of 
 crushed cloves, mace, and cinnamon, and a dozen crushed 
 cardamom-seeds ; let all these ingredients stand, closed from 
 the air, for two weeks. Then make a sirup of two pounds 
 of sugar and one pint of water by boiling them together 
 until a little cooled on a saucer is about as thick as maple- 
 sirup, and strain and cool it ; strain the spirit away from the 
 crushed fruit and spice, and mix it with the sirup ; let 
 the mixture stand, closed from the air, for two weeks, and 
 then filter it, and put it up in air-tight bottles. 
 
 BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 Allow a pound of granulated or loaf sugar for each quart 
 of blackberry- J nice, obtained by mashing the berries, and 
 then squeezing them in a cloth; add to these quantities of 
 berry-juice and sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of whole 
 cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and pounded but not powdered 
 nutmeg. Boil all these ingredients together over a gentle 
 
580 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 fire for two hours; then strain the cordial thus produced 
 through a bolting-cloth sieve, or through a fine cloth, add 
 to it half a pint of the best brandy, and bottle and cork it. 
 This cordial is very useful in cases of diarrhoea or dysentery ; 
 it also makes a very wholesome summer drink, a tablespoon- 
 ful being used in a glass of cool water. 
 
 PEACH BRANDY. 
 
 To make peach-brandy, crush ten pounds of good peaches 
 without peeling them, breaking the stones ; put the peaches 
 into a tub or barrel, pour over them two gallons and a half 
 of ninety- five per cent alcohol, and two gallons of water; 
 cover the tub, and let the peaches stand in the liquor for 
 twenty-four hours. Then strain off the liquor, pressing the 
 peaches to extract all of it, and filter it, to clear it, through 
 flannel or filtering-paper. Next add two and a half pints of 
 white sirup, and then bottle the brandy. If the color is 
 wanted dark, use a very little caramel. The sirup is simply 
 water containing as much white sugar as will dissolve in it : 
 the sirup may be clarified unless the sugar is very pure. 
 
 PEACH AND HONEY. 
 
 A good winter drink is made by mixing together one 
 tablespoonful of honey, and a wineglassful of peach-brandy. 
 
 CIDER CUP. 
 
 Mix together in a large glass jug, or a claret-cup, the fol- 
 lowing ingredients : one quart of cider, two wineglasses of 
 sherry and one of brandy, the thinly cut yellow rind of two 
 lemons, one orange sliced, and, in season, six thin slices 
 of cucumber. Fill the cup with finely pounded or shaved 
 ice, sweeten it palatably, and serve it before the ice entirely 
 melts ; a glass of curagoa and a little grated nutmeg may be 
 added if desired. 
 
BEVERAGES. 58 1 
 
 CLARET-CUP. 
 
 Mix together in -a claret-cup one bottle of claret, one 
 wineglassful of brandy, the yellow rind of a lemon cut very 
 thin, a sprig of mint, and three slices of cucumber if it is 
 in season, sugar enough to make the cup palatable, plenty 
 of fine ice, and, last of all, two bottles of seltzer-water or 
 plain soda. Serve the claret-cup as soon as it is made. 
 
 CHAMPA ONE- CUP. 
 
 Mix very quickly in a claret-cup, and serve at once, two 
 bottles ea'jh of champagne and seltzer or plain soda-water, 
 and half a pint of any good water-ice. 
 
 ROMAN PUNCH. 
 
 Mix in a large tumbler one tablespoonful each of sugar 
 and raspberry-sirup, the juice of half a lemon, one teaspoonful 
 of cuxa^oa, a wineglassful of Jamaica rum, and half a wine- 
 glassful of brandy. Fill the glass with shaved ice ; put a tea- 
 spoonful of port-wine on the top, and whatever berries or 
 fruit are in season, and drink the punch through a straw. 
 
 PUNCH 1 LA ROMAINE. 
 
 This beverage requires to be partly frozen in an ice-pail 
 or an ice-cream freezer. Mix two pounds of powdered sugar 
 in the juice of a dozen kmons ; add the thin yellow rind 
 and juice of two oranges, and stir until the sugar is dissolved ; 
 then strain the sirup thus made, and mix with it the whites 
 of a dozen eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; freeze this mixture 
 nearly solid; then quickly stir into it one bottle each of 
 champagne and Jamaica rum, and serve the punch at once 
 in small goblets or champagne-glasses. The freezing-mixture 
 is composed of equal parts of salt and pounded ice packed 
 around the vessel containing the Roman punch. 
 
582 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CAPILLAIRE FOB EAV SUCrA 
 
 Put a pound of sugar over the fire, in a thick saucepan, 
 with a pint of cold water and the white and shell of one egg ; 
 stir them together until the sugar is melted, and the egg 
 begins to harden j then let the sirup boil for five minutes ; 
 strain it and cool it; to each pint add a wineglassful of 
 cura^oa, and bottle the capillaire. A teaspoonful or more 
 in a glass of cool water makes good eau sucre, refreshing in 
 illness where the use of sugar is permitted. 
 
 VIRGINIA VEBDER, OR BOTTLED MILK-PUNCH. 
 
 Cut the yellow rind very thinly from six oranges and six 
 lemons, and steep the rind for twenty-four hours in a bottle 
 of brandy; squeeze the juice of the fruit, free from seeds, 
 upon two pounds of white sugar ; add to it four quarts of 
 water and one of milk made boiling hot ; then stir in the 
 brandy, and repeatedly strain the mixture through a jelly- 
 bag until it is quite free from sediment. As soon as it is 
 clear, bottle it, and cork it air-tight. Keep it in a cool 
 place, and use it as it is required. 
 
 MILK-PUNCH. 
 
 Mix the following ingredients in a large, tumbler : one 
 tablespoonful of powdered sugar and two of cold water, one 
 wineglassful of the best brandy and half that quantity of 
 Santa-Cruz rum ; after these are well mixed, put in enough 
 shaved ice to half fill the tumbler, and then fill it with cold 
 milk, and grate a little nutmeg on the surface. 
 
 Hot milk-punch is made in the same way, omitting the 
 ice, and using hot milk. 
 
 WHITE TIGER'S-MILK. 
 
 YoT one quart of this beverage, mix together half a gill 
 each of peachrbrandy and apple-jack, two drops each of oil 
 
BEVERAGES. 583 
 
 of cloves, cinnamon, and orange, one quart of milk, and a 
 palatable sweetening of powdered sugar ; grate a little nut- 
 meg over the surface, beat the white of an egg to a stiff 
 froth, whip it into the tiger's-milk, and serve it at once. 
 
 HOT APFLE-TODDY. 
 
 This favorite winter drink is made as follows : Take the 
 pulp from a hot baked apple of medium size, using a tea- 
 spoon to free it from skin and core ; put it into a tumbler 
 with an equal measure of apple-jack, a pleasant addition of 
 sugar and grated nutmeg, and a litrie boiling water. A usual 
 proportion for a single toddy is one finger of baked apple, 
 two each of apple-jack and boiling water, a tablespoonful 
 of sugar, and a grate of nutmeg on the top. 
 
 EGG-NOG. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg and a tablespoonful each of sugar 
 and water until the sugar is dissolved ; then stir in one wine- 
 glass of brandy, half a wineglass of Santa-Cruz rum, and 
 one-third of a tumblerful of milk ; last of all beat the white 
 of the egg to a stiff froth, put it on the egg-nog, and serve 
 it at once. In summer two tablespoonfuls of shaved ice 
 may be added to the egg-nog. 
 
 EGG AND SHERRY. 
 
 Pour a teaspoonful of sherry into a wineglass, put the un- 
 broken yolk of a firesh egg upon the wine, and swallow them 
 together, without breaking the egg in the mouth. 
 
 HALF-AND-HALF. 
 
 Halfrand-half is a mixture of equal parts of freshly drawn 
 ale and porter well mixed together, and drank at once. 
 
584 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 EGG-FLIP. 
 
 Heat a quart of freshly drawn alej meantime beat the 
 yolks of four eggs to a cream with four tablespoonfuls of 
 brown sugar, and the whites to a stiff froth ; when the ale 
 is scalding hot, pour it upon the yolks, stirring constantly ; 
 then quickly whip in the whites until the flip is smooth, and 
 serve it. If the ale is too hot, it will curdle or cook the 
 eggs. 
 
 PORTER SANGAREE. 
 
 Dissolve a heaping teaspoonful of sugar in a tablespoonful 
 of water in a tumbler, fill the tumbler with freshly opened 
 porter, grate a little nutmeg on it, and drink it. 
 
 PORT-WINE SANGAREE. 
 
 Put a teaspoonful of sugar in a tumbler with a wineglass 
 and a half of port-wine, fill the tumbler with shaved ice, and 
 serve the sangaree ; grate a little nutmeg over the top. 
 
 MULLED WINE. 
 
 Put a pint of wine over the fire to heat with a pint of 
 water ; meantime, beat three eggs with three tablespoonfuls 
 of sugar ; when the wine is hot, iui not boiling, pour it into 
 the eggs, beating the mixture constantly ; if the wine is too 
 hot, it will curdle or cook the eggs; sweeten the mulled 
 wine to taste, grate a little nutmeg on it, add a little allspice, 
 and serve it hot. 
 
 MINT JULEP. 
 
 Use for an ordinary tumbler half a dozen sprigs of firesh 
 mint ; bruise the tops a little in the glass with one table- 
 spoonful of sugar and two of water, using a teaspoon ; then 
 pour in a wineglass and a half of brandy ; take out the mint, 
 fill the glass with shaved ice, and put the mint in again with 
 the stews down. On the top of the julep arrange fresh her- 
 
BEVERAGES. .585 
 
 ries, slices of orange or pineapple, and a couple of straws, 
 and serve the julep at once. 
 
 SHERRY COBBLER. 
 
 Put in a large tumbler two glasses of sherry, a heaping 
 tablespopnful of powdered sugar, three small slices of orange 
 or pineapple, and half a dozen raspberries or strawberries ; 
 fill the glass with cracked ice, put a couple of straws in the 
 cobbler, and serve it at once. 
 
 WHISKEY PUNCH. 
 
 Dissolve a heaping tablespoonful of sugar in a wineglassful 
 of hot or cold water (as the punch is to be hot or cold) 
 add a small ring of lemon-rind cut very thin, and a little 
 lemon-juice if it is liked ; then pour in a wineglassful of 
 whiskey, and as much water, hot or cold, as is desired, and 
 drink the punch. 
 
 BEEF-TEA. 
 
 The beef for beef-tea should be quite lean, and chopped 
 fine ; for a pint of beef- tea use a pound of beef; pour over 
 it a pint of cold water, and let it soak for an hour or longer ; 
 then put the beef and water over the fire, and let them heat 
 until the beef begins to look brown ; or let the beef-tea ac- 
 tually boil, if it is preferred ; strain the beef-tea through a 
 sieve only fine enough to retain the particles of beef, but 
 not to make the beef-tea clear ; season it as the physician 
 directs, and serve it. 
 
 BEEF-JUICE ON TOAST. 
 
 Boil a thick piece of beefsteak until it is medium rare ; 
 then score it in all directions, and put it between two plates, 
 or in a lemon-squeezer, to press out the juice. Either use 
 the juice as a drink, or, as it is squeezed from the beef, let 
 it fall upon a slice of delicately made toast ; sprinkle a little 
 salt ovei the toast, and serve it hot. 
 
5 86 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOICERY. 
 
 CLEAR CLAM-BROTH. 
 
 Wash the clams in the shells in cold water, put them over 
 the fire in a thick saucepan, and heat them until the shells 
 open j carefully pour out the broth, strain it through a fine 
 towel, season it as the physician permits, and serve it hot. 
 Sometimes the soft portions of the clams may be eaten. Or 
 the clams may be used for fritters or scalloped clams. 
 
 STEAMED CLAMS. 
 
 Wash and cook the clams as directed in the preceding 
 recipe ; after the clam-shells open, take out the clams ; 
 strain the broth, heat the clams in it quickly, and serve 
 them on toast. 
 
 DRY TOAST. 
 
 Cut slices of stale bread half an inch thick ; trim off the 
 crust, put the bread near the fire, and brown it delicately, 
 taking care not to bum it. 
 
 BROILED OYSTERS. 
 
 Carefully remove all bits of shell from large oysters, lay 
 them between the bars of a buttered oyster-gridiron, and 
 hold them over a hot fire until their edges begin to curl ; 
 then at once serve the oysters on toast, with the seasoning 
 allowed by the physician. 
 
 BROILED SQUABS. 
 
 Carefully pluck and singe two squabs ; split them down 
 the back, cut off the heads and feet, wipe the birds with a 
 wet towel, put them between the bars of a buttered gridiron, 
 and quickly brown them on both sides ; season them lightly 
 with salt and pepper, and serve a sliced orange with them. 
 
BEVERAGES. 58/ 
 
 MILK PORRWGE. 
 
 Mix smoothly a level tablespoonful of flour with a cupful 
 each of milk and water, a level teaspoonful of salt, and a 
 little grated nutmeg ; stir these ingredients over the fire in a 
 thick saucepan until they boil, and then serve the porridge. 
 
 RICE-GRUEL. 
 
 Mix smoothly a level tablespoonful of rice-flour with a pint 
 of water, and a level teaspoonful of salt ; put the gruel over 
 the fire, and stir it occasionally until it has boiled for half 
 an hour ; then serve the gruel. An inch of stick cinnamon 
 may be boiled with it if the physician permits, or a glass of 
 brandy added before it is served, if a stimulant is required. 
 
 WA TER- GR UEL. 
 
 Water-gruel is made like milk-porridge by using the en- 
 tire liquid quantity of water, omitting the milk. The gruel 
 may be slightly sweetened if it is desired ; or a little grated 
 nutmeg may be added to it. 
 
 RICE AND BARLEY WATERS. 
 
 These beverages are made by thoroughly washing half a 
 cupful of either grain in plenty of cold water, then putting 
 the grain over the fire in two quarts of fresh cold water, and 
 boiling it down one-half; after the water is reduced one- 
 half, strain it, cool it, sweeten and flavor it to taste, and 
 use it. 
 
 PANADA. 
 
 Put a tablespoonful of bread-crumbs over the fire with the 
 same quantity of sugar, a grate of nutmeg, and half a pint of 
 cold water, and boil the panada for five minutes ; then add 
 a glass of wine to it, and serve it at once. 
 
S88 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 CAUDLE. 
 
 To a cupful of cold-water gruel add a glass of wine, an 
 egg beaten to a foam, and sugar- and nutmeg to suit tl» ' 
 patient's taste. 
 
 HOME-MADE GRANULA. 
 
 Granula as sold at the shops is rather expensive, and caif 
 be prepared at home with but little trouble ; it is excellent 
 for gruels and porridges for invalids and children. To pre- 
 pare the granula, use stale pieces of Graham or brown bread ; 
 cut the stale bread in pieces of equal thickness, put them 
 into the oven, and bake them until they are light brown ; 
 then roll them with a rolling-pin until they break into small 
 crumbs ; sift the crumbs through a coarse sieve to insure 
 uniformity, rolling and sifting again the crumbs too large to 
 pass through the sieve the first time ; keep the granula in 
 air-tight jars or boxes in a dry place, and use it as re- 
 quired ; it will keep as well as cracker-dust. Any of the 
 recipes for preparing gruels and panadas will serve for the 
 preparation of granula, or it may be used to thicken hot 
 milk or soup for invalids or children. 
 
 RENNET • CURDS. 
 
 Heat a quart of milk lukewarm, put it in an earthen 
 bowl, stir with it a tablespoonful of liquid rennet, or of ren- 
 net-wine, and let the curds set ; then pour the curds into a 
 sieve set over a bowl, and let the whey drain off. Serve the 
 curds with cream and powdered sugar. 
 
 RENNET WHEY. 
 
 Use the whey which drains from the curds, sweetened and 
 flavored as the physician permits. 
 
BEVERAGES. 589 
 
 BREAD JELLY. 
 
 Boil a slice of stale bread to a pulp in enough boiling 
 water to cover it ; rub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavor 
 it to taste, and cool it in a cup or mould. Serve cream and 
 powdered sugar with it. 
 
 CRANBERRY AND SAGO JELLY. 
 
 This jelly can be prepared in the winter season when fresh 
 fruit is scarce and expensive, and will prove a very accept- 
 able addition to the dietary of an invalid when the physician 
 will permit its use. Pick over and wash one quart of fresh 
 cranberries, put them in a thick saucepan with sufficient 
 cold water to cover them, set them over the fire, and stew 
 them until they are tender enough to yield all their juice, 
 breaking them with a spoon as they cook ; when they are 
 soft, squeeze them in a muslin jelly-bag or a clean towel ; 
 measure the juice, and put it again over the fire ; to a quart 
 of the strained juice add half a pound of sugar and two 
 ounces of sago, and continue the boiling until the sago is 
 transparent ; then pour the jelly into glasses or moulds wet 
 with cold water, and let it cool before using it. 
 
 DISHES FOR CHILDREN. 
 
 The physical basis of diet for children is clearly defined 
 in the author's " Dietary for Schools," which was written at 
 the suggestion of the Hon. John Eaton, U.S. Commissioner 
 of Education, and published as Circular No. 4, series of 
 1879, of the Bureau of Education, Department of the In 
 terior. It is reprinted in the late editions of the author's 
 "Cooking-school Text-book." The following points are 
 extracted from the dietary : — 
 
 Every care must be taken to supply children with a va- 
 
590 PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 
 
 riety and abundance of nutritious and digestible food, in 
 which fruit, the cereals, vegetables, milk, mutton, beef, and 
 poultry should be included; together with simple sweets, 
 and plain puddings chiefly composed of milk, eggs, and 
 flour or bread. The character of the diet should be varied 
 with the seasons; cold weather permitting the use of plenty 
 of substantial food, and summer making advisable an abun- 
 dance of ripe and fresh fruit and vegetables. Tea, coffee, 
 and stimulants should be avoided, and plenty of cool fresh 
 water used as the habitual drink. The fact should be re- 
 membered, that milk is not a beverage but a food, of which 
 the greater part becomes solid after it is drank. With the 
 exception of salt, the condiments should be used sparingly. 
 The breakfast should be early and plentiful, and when any 
 drink but water is desired, warm milk and water, or cocoa 
 may be used. Midday dinners should be varied and always 
 hot, — indeed, all food is most digestible when warm, — 
 composed of some plain meat dish, at least two vegetables, 
 and a simple pudding. Soup is. invaluable for children, but 
 it must be plain. The supper should be light and nutri- 
 tious, given about two hours before retiring, and may in- 
 clude warm bread-and-milk, any form of porridge and milk, 
 custard, bread and butter, simple stewed fruits, and either 
 cool water or cocoa as a beverage. 
 
 If children are very active, and grow fast, their appetites 
 will always be keen, and should be completely satisfied with 
 abundance of well-chosen food. When children get hungry 
 oftener than the recurrence of the regular family meals, they 
 should be supplied with a light repast of digestible char- 
 acter ; indeed, it is well to give them a regular luncheon of 
 bread and butter, or bread and milk, in the mid-forenoon, 
 and again about three or four o'clock if their supper does 
 not come before six o'clock. If a child is hungry, it cannot 
 be well or happy ; and the rapid growth of youth causes » 
 
BEVERAGES. 59 1 
 
 constant demand to be made upon the vitality supplied 
 to the system by food. 
 
 When children show any marked preference for special 
 foods, care should be taken to modify their tastes so that 
 they may always eat a sufficient variety to obtain from food 
 the elements requisite to a well-balanced physical develop- 
 ment. Every abnormal appetite should be modified by ju- 
 dicious control on the part of the parents or nurse, if the 
 child is to receive the care its helpless condition imposes 
 upon its natural protectors : they are as much responsible 
 for its physical well-being as for its moral rectitude. 
 
 These outlines will serve to guard those having the care 
 of children, from making the mistakes which too often entail 
 a life of weakness or suffering as the consequence equally of 
 injudicious indulgence, and of neglect of the most ordinary 
 rules of health. 
 

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