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 SAGE ENDOWNENT.FUND 
 
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 Hcnrg W. Sage 
 1891 
 
 i 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924080099363 
 
BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 
 
 FUNGI : THEIR NATURE, INFLUENCES, USES, &C. 
 
 Edited by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley. With Illustrations. 
 Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO FRESH WATER ALGJE, with an 
 Enumeration of all the British Species. With Thirteen 
 Plates. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 LONDON : 
 KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUBNER & CO., Ltd. 
 
BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI 
 
 HOW TO DISTINGUISH AND HOW 
 TO COOK THEM 
 
 WITH COLOURED FIGURES OF UPWARDS OF 
 FORTY SPECIES 
 
 BY 
 
 M. C. COOKE, M.A., LL.D., A.L.S. 
 
 AUTHOR OF " HANDBOOK OF BRITISH FUNGI ;" " ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 BRITISH FUNGI ;'' i( FUNGI, THEIR NATURE, USES," ETC. 
 
 LONDON 
 KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, TRUBNER & CO. Ltd. 
 
 PATERNOSTER HOUSE, CHARING CROSS ROAD 
 189I 
 f 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Fungus eating is on the increase, thanks to Field 
 clubs and their fungus forays, but the complaint 
 has been heard for many years that no efficient hand- 
 book for the guidance of young or inexperienced 
 mycophagists could be found in the English language. 
 One or two laudable attempts have heen made, but 
 they have left much to be desired, and for the past 
 ten years my fungus eating friends have continued to 
 urge me, as one of the oldest of fungus eaters, to give 
 the results of my experience. Admirable as Dr 
 Badham's book was when published, and fully as it 
 answered its purpose then, no one will contend that it 
 is " up to date." However, the world is large enough 
 for both of us. The list given at the end will re- 
 present all the kinds that I remember to have eaten, 
 and as sixty-five will be considered sufficient to 
 establish my claim to be a fungus eater, it may also 
 be regarded as sufficient to exonerate me from any 
 charge of presumption or inexperience. It has 
 usually been the custom to include poisonous and 
 edible fungi in one book, but from this custom I have 
 diverged, for two or three reasons. It is not com- 
 mendable to popularize knowledge of vegetable 
 
6 PREFACE. 
 
 poisons easy to procure. It is not advisable to mix 
 the descriptions and figures of good and bad species 
 without distinct labelling, as on a chemist's bottle, of 
 " poison " across each noxious species. And it is not 
 desirable to increase the bulk and cost of a little book 
 which was intended in furtherance of " fungus eating." 
 Copious notes have been added on the preparation of 
 the different species for the table, some old and some 
 new, but all practical. By the aid of the descriptions 
 in writing, as untechnical as possible, and the coloured 
 figures, it is hoped that all reasonable care has been 
 taken to prevent error, or danger, in eating mush- 
 rooms or toadstools. If I have rendered the art of 
 fungus eating easier or safer I shall have accomplished 
 my object. 
 
 M. C. COOKE. 
 London, 1891. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 Fungus Eating 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 II. 
 
 Explanatory . 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 III. 
 
 The Common Mushroom 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 IV. 
 
 The Meadow Mushroom 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 V. 
 
 Brown Mushrooms . 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 VI. 
 
 Shaggy Caps . 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 VII. 
 
 Parasol Mushrooms . 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 VIII. 
 
 St George's Mushroom 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 IX. 
 
 Warted Caps . 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 X. 
 
 Dusky Caps 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 XI. 
 
 Fairy Ring Champignon 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 XII. 
 
 Milky Mushrooms . 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Hedgehog Mushrooms 
 
 
 
 9i 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Sweet-bread Mushrooms 
 
 
 
 96 
 
 XV. 
 
 The Chantarelle 
 
 
 
 102 
 
 XVI. 
 
 The Edible Boletus . 
 
 
 
 107 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Other Boleti . 
 
 
 
 114 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 Vegetable Beef Steak 
 
 
 
 121 
 
 XIX. 
 
 Puff Balls 
 
 
 
 126 
 
 XX. 
 
 Buff Caps and Ivory Caps 
 
 
 
 133 
 
 XXI. 
 
 Oyster Mushrooms . 
 
 
 
 138 
 
 XXII. 
 
 Fragrant Mushrooms 
 
 
 
 145 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XXIII. Morels . 
 
 XXIV. Truffles 
 XXV. Horn of Plenty 
 
 XXVI. Jews' Ears 
 XXVII. The Russules . 
 XXVIII. Stump Mushrooms . 
 XXIX. The Sparassis . 
 XXX. Fairy Clubs or Clavaria 
 XXXI. Mushroom Ketchup . 
 XXXII. About Poisonous Fungi 
 
 XXXIII. Dried Mushrooms 
 
 XXXIV. Fungus Hunting 
 XXXV. List of Edible Fungi 
 
 PAGE 
 151 
 l6l 
 
 173 
 176 
 
 183 
 I89 
 
 193 
 198 
 20I 
 206 
 213 
 218 
 225 
 
EXPLANATION OF PLATES. 
 
 late i 
 
 Fig. i. 
 
 » j) 
 
 ji 2 - 
 
 )3 >J 
 
 >. 3- 
 
 )) » 
 
 » 4- 
 
 „ 2 
 
 „ 5- 
 
 J) )J 
 
 » 6. 
 
 J) 5) 
 
 » 7- 
 
 JJ 5) 
 
 » 8. 
 
 » 3 
 
 .» 9- 
 
 » ?) 
 
 „ IO. 
 
 5J » 
 
 „ ii. 
 
 4 
 
 » I2 - 
 
 ?J JJ 
 
 » 13- 
 
 »5 » 
 
 >» 14- 
 
 J) 5) 
 
 ., IS- 
 
 5 
 
 „ 1 6. 
 
 „ ,, 
 
 » 17- 
 
 6 
 
 „ 1 8. 
 
 )? )) 
 
 » 19- 
 
 J) )) 
 
 „ 20. 
 
 7 
 
 „ 21. 
 
 ?» » 
 
 „ 22. 
 
 8 
 
 ,,23-4- 
 
 J) » 
 
 „ 25- 
 
 J- J » 
 
 „ 26. 
 
 ?J Jl 
 
 „ 27. 
 
 9 
 
 „ 28. 
 
 ?) 5J 
 
 » 29. 
 
 Agaricus (Amanita) rubescens. 
 Agaricus (Amanita) vaginatus. 
 Agaricus (Clitopilus) prunulus. 
 Clavaria amethystina. 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) procerus. 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) excoriatus. 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) fragrans. 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) odorus. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) nudus. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) personatus. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) gambosus. 
 Agaricus (Armillaria) mucidus. 
 Agaricus (Collybia) fusipes. 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) ostreatus. 
 Clavaria vermicularis. 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) sylvaticus. 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) arvensis. 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) hcemorrhoi- 
 
 darius. 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) campestris. 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) elvensis. 
 Coprinus comatus. 
 coprinus atramentarius. 
 Cantharellus CIBARIUS. 
 Hygrophorus VIRGINEUS. 
 Hygrophorus pratensis. 
 Marasmius oreades. 
 Lactarius volemus. 
 Lactarius subdulcis. 
 
EXPLANATION OF PLATES. 
 
 Plate 9 Fig. 30. Lactarius mitissimus. 
 
 „ „ 31. 'Lactarius deliciosus. 
 
 „ „ 32. Clavaria rugosa. 
 
 10 „ 33. Boletus edulis. 
 „ „ 34. Boletus scaber. 
 „ „ 35. Tuber jEstivum. 
 
 11 „ 36. Hydnum repandum. 
 „ „ 37. russula vesca. 
 „ „ 38. flstulina hepatica. 
 „ „ 39. craterellus cornucoploides. 
 
 12 „ 40. morchella esculenta. 
 „ „ 41. morchella semilibera. 
 „ „ 42. helvella crispa. 
 „ „ 43. helvella lacunosa. 
 „ „ 44. helvella elastica. 
 
BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 I.— FUNGUS EATING. 
 
 FUNGUS eating is not a modern idiosyncrasy con- 
 fined to a few enthusiasts, or limited to a few 
 Western States of Europe. It is ancient in its 
 origin, and of wide geographical distribution. If we 
 seek for traces of the practice amongst ancient nations 
 we shall be convinced of its antiquity. In some of 
 the Talmudical treatises mention is made of fungi 
 which were allowed as food. In one treatise it is 
 asked, "With what blessing are fungi to be con- 
 secrated before being eaten?" and, again, we are 
 informed that if a person was under- a vow not to eat 
 of the fruits of the earth, this did not prevent him 
 from eating fungi, as such things did not derive 
 nourishment from the soil but from the viscid matter 
 of trees. In another of the treatises it is said that 
 " The people went out into the fields, and gathered for 
 themselves fungi and boleti." And there are also 
 Chaldee words which are equivalent to fungi and 
 boleti. This carries the eating of fungi backwards 
 
IO BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 to some of the most ancient of civilized peoples. 
 Amongst the old Greeks fungi were certainly eaten, 
 for Athenaeus quotes various authors on the subject. 
 He says there are not many kinds which are good 
 to eat, and that the greater part of them produce 
 a choky sensation. Another author says, "You 
 will be choked, like those who waste away by eat- 
 ing mushrooms," showing that even then there were 
 persons prejudiced against them. The Romans, too, 
 indulged in the same habits, for there are various 
 allusions in Latin authors to different kinds of fungi. 
 Boleti were in special favour, and truffles next in 
 esteem. One writer declares that the former were so 
 exquisite that it was not safe to send them anywhere 
 by messenger, for he would be sure to eat them by 
 the way. You might send silver and gold, but not 
 boleti. 
 
 Argentum atque aurum facile est, laenamque togamque, 
 Mittere : boletos mittere difficile est. 
 
 We read that special vessels (boletarid) were used in 
 which to cook the "boleti." Martial represents one 
 of these as complaining of a degraded use to which it 
 had been applied. It was designed for cooking 
 mushrooms. Alas ! it now cooked cabbage sprouts. 
 How often has it been stated, and repeated, that a 
 dish of boleti concealed the poison which Locusta 
 administered to Claudius ? These boleti were not the 
 same as now called by that name, but agarics, of 
 
FUNGUS EATING. I I 
 
 which Dr Badham declares that the " royal boletus " 
 served to Caesar was the Agaricus Casarea, so called 
 in honour of the event. 
 
 Allusions to fungi in the ancient classics have been 
 so admirably collated and detailed by the Rev. W. 
 Houghton, 1 that it is only necessary to allude to his 
 treatise as the most complete and exhaustive on this 
 subject in any European language. Nevertheless 
 there are one or two quotations specially applicable 
 to fungus eating to which reference may be made 
 here. Celsus says, "If any one shall have eaten 
 noxious fungi let him eat radishes with vinegar and 
 water, or with salt and vinegar ; these may be 
 distinguished from the wholesome kinds by their ap- 
 pearance, and can be rendered serviceable by a mode 
 of cooking them." Dioscorides alludes also to edible 
 fungi, for he writes : " Some people say that the bark 
 of the white and the black poplar, when cut into small 
 pieces and scattered over dunged spaces, will produce 
 edible fungi at all seasons." 
 
 Pliny has a great deal to say about fungi, and 
 amongst his other observations he writes : " I will 
 now make some general observations on the cooking 
 of fungi, because this is the only food which dainty 
 voluptuaries themselves prepare with their own 
 hands, and thus, as it were, by anticipation feed on 
 them, using amber knives and silver service. Those 
 
 1,1 Notices of Fungi in Greek and Latin Authors," by Rev. W. 
 Houghton, M.A., in Ann. Nat. Hist., Jan. 1885. 
 
12 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 kinds which remain hard after cooking are injurious, 
 while those which admit of being thoroughly well 
 cooked, when eaten with saltpetre are harmless ; they 
 are rendered more safe still if they are cooked with 
 meat, or with pear stalks ; indeed, it is good to eat 
 pears immediately after fungi. Vinegar being 
 contrary to them neutralizes their dangerous qualities. 
 All these products appear after showers." Our 
 purpose being served, by these quotations, to show 
 that edible fungi were known to the ancients, we 
 leave the rest of Mr Houghton's excellent chapter 
 untouched. 
 
 Without waiting to demenstrate that in more 
 recent times they are consumed throughout Europe 
 to a far greater extent than in the British Isles, from 
 Russia and Kamtchatka to Austria and Italy, in 
 Germany, Belgium, France, Switzerland, and in 
 Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, we follow the 
 practice to the United States of North America, 
 where kinds are eaten, according to Dr Curtis, to 
 which we take exception. He enumerates altogether 
 one hundred and thirty excellent species. During 
 the latter part of the great civil war, the people of the 
 Southern States, being much pressed for food, found 
 fungi of very great importance to them. In the 
 Rocky Mountains other species come in for consump- 
 tion. Finishing first with the Northern Hemisphere, 
 we find fungus eating on the slopes of the Himalayas ; 
 dried morels sold for food in the bazaars of North 
 
FUNGUS EATING. 13 
 
 Western India ; special kinds of agaric, not unlike 
 our own St George's, mushroom, universally con- 
 sidered as a delicacy in Afghanistan ; other species 
 known and appreciated in the Punjab, and some others 
 even in Southern India. It is stated in the Edin- 
 burgh Review (April 1869), "We have been informed 
 by a gentleman who has lived many years in India 
 that the natives seem to eat fungi promiscuously, 
 chopping up the different species together, without 
 any ill effects." In the Malay Peninsula, Penang, 
 and the Straits settlements dried fungi are an article 
 of commerce. Seven distinct species are recognised 
 by natives, and eaten at Penang, whilst in China and 
 Japan, especially in China, there is a considerable 
 import trade of dried fungi for soup, as well as an 
 artificial cultivation of similar species in the interior. 
 A large kind of hedgehog mushroom (Hydnum) is 
 eaten fresh or dried in Japan, and is an article of 
 internal trade. One of the dried species from South 
 Eastern Asia grows on trees, and is not unlike Agari- 
 cus ulmarius. In many parts of Asia the common 
 mushroom is also found, according to the testimony 
 of Europeans, and is eaten by the natives. 
 
 Southwards, in the New World, fungi are eaten in 
 various countries. In Tierra del Fuego they are for 
 several months the staple food of the country. One 
 of the tree morels (Cyttarid) is called "summer 
 fruit," and is very common on beech trees. It is 
 eaten systematically. A native, when asked what 
 
14 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 they had to eat, replied, " Plenty of fish and too much 
 summer fruit." Another species is found and eaten 
 at Cape Horn. In Brazil some species of agaric, 
 closely allied to the common mushroom, are eaten ; 
 and it seems that fungus eating is not unknown in 
 Chili and Peru. 
 
 In Northern Africa some European and some in- 
 digenous species are employed as food. Of fungus 
 eating on the western coast we know little, but at the 
 Cape of Good Hope "The Parasol" and the "Common 
 M'ushroom " are found and eaten. Some of the 
 native tribes are also mycophagists. At Natal a 
 delicious agaric, called " Umkowaan," is highly ap- 
 preciated. Throughout the whole of South Africa 
 fungus eating is in favour, not only of well-known 
 European species, but of some only known as native. 
 
 From New Zealand and Tahiti immense quantities 
 of dried Jews' ears are exported to China, but there 
 is no evidence that they are consumed in their native 
 countries. Nevertheless there are other edible fungi 
 in New Zealand which are articles of common con- 
 sumption. The European " mushroom " is found and 
 appreciated throughout the Australian colonies, as 
 well as several indigenous species. 
 
 Having demonstrated that fungus eating is not a 
 modern invention, or restricted to a few European 
 localities, it may be asked, what reasons can be urged 
 in its favour, and, in reply, we would suggest that it 
 increases the variety of food resources, furnishes 
 
FUNGUS EATING. 1 5 
 
 delicate condiments for less highly flavoured dishes, 
 and might afford a nitrogenous meat-substitute in 
 families of very restricted resources. The chief re- 
 quisite for ensuring these results is the wider diffusion 
 of useful information. In illustration we will quote 
 some pertinent remarks by Dr Curtis, applied by him 
 to the United States, but capable of a wider applica- 
 tion. " Hill and plain, mountain and valley, woods, 
 fields, and pastures swarm with a profusion of good, 
 nutritious fungi, which are allowed to decay where 
 they spring up, because people do not know how, or 
 are afraid, to use them. By those of us who know 
 their use, their value was appreciated, as never before, 
 during the late war, when other food, especially meat, 
 was scarce and dear. Then such persons as I have 
 heard express a preference for mushrooms over meat 
 had generally no need to lack grateful food, as it was 
 easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance 
 of their homes, if living in the country. Such was 
 not always the case, however. I remember once, 
 during the gloomy period when there had been a 
 protracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found 
 only in damp, shaded woods, and but few even there, I 
 was unable to find enough of any one species for a meal, 
 so, gathering of every kind, I brought home thirteen 
 different kinds, had them all cooked together in one 
 grand potpourri, and made an excellent supper." 
 
 This is further corroborated by an incident narrated 
 by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley. " Our schoolmaster," 
 
1 6 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 he says, " was a person of some scientific information. 
 At a time when he could not afford to buy meat, he 
 told me himself that he kept his family for several 
 months upon different species of mushrooms. He 
 was a person who was able to distinguish between 
 that which was good and that which was bad, and he 
 collected them himself." 
 
 If we have not made out a case for fungus eating, 
 it is not from any lack of feeling in favour of it. 
 From experience we have learnt that preaching is 
 not half so successful as practice in carrying con- 
 viction, and we doubt if we have not made more 
 converts by prevailing upon them to eat of dishes set 
 before them at our instigation, than by writing up 
 their virtues in books. There is always a latent 
 timidity, at least in most minds, of committing a 
 mistake, and being poisoned ; or else there is a 
 scepticism that substitutes are never so good as 
 originals. In this case the error consists in regard- 
 ing as substitutes for mushrooms viands which are 
 not proposed as substitutes, but as supplementary. 
 Fungus eaters do not appreciate the ordinary mush- 
 room the less because they can eat of fifty other 
 kinds " without fear and trembling," and without any 
 question of competition being present in their minds. 
 As in nature there is endless variety in form and 
 colour, so in fungi there is great variety in flavour, 
 instead of a uniform sameness. Let those who doubt 
 read on, and profit by the succeeding chapters. 
 
PL, 2, 
 
EXPLANATORY. 1 7 
 
 II.— EXPLANATORY. 
 
 Notwithstanding all the efforts which have been 
 made during the past twenty years to diffuse informa- 
 tion concerning the use of fungi as food, there still 
 remains a vast amount of prejudice to overcome, and 
 the necessity for the diffusion of knowledge is almost, 
 as great as ever. In the time of our grandfathers it 
 was almost universally believed that our islands pro- 
 duced but one kind of fungus which was edible, and 
 that was denominated the " mushroom ; " all the rest, 
 were classed together as dangerous, and were only 
 known as "toadstools." That this was a popular 
 error has now come to be acknowledged, but hardly 
 to the extent of admitting that we have not less than 
 eighty different species which may be cooked and 
 sent to table. A courageous lady of our acquain- 
 tance confesses to having cooked and eaten as many as 
 sixty without the slightest accident or inconvenience. 
 As may be expected, these are not all equally good.,, 
 possessing a variety of flavour, and a difference of 
 texture ; and as tastes differ, so there will be a 
 diversity of opinion as to relative merits, but, it being 
 admitted that all are edible, it must be left to indivi- 
 dual tastes to select those which please, them best. 
 Neither must it be expected that all are equally 
 available for the same purposes, or are capable of 
 
 B 
 
1 8 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 being prepared in the same manner. There is as 
 much art in cooking a fungus as in selecting one for 
 that purpose, although it is an art which, in both 
 cases, may be readily acquired. 
 
 If popular prejudice has, on the one hand, limited 
 the number of edible species to its lowest quantity, it 
 has, on the other hand, proportionately increased the 
 number of dangerous species to an alarming extent. 
 It was undoubtedly the prevailing opinion, not many 
 years ago, that every fungus was poisonous which was 
 not a veritable "mushroom." The lowest estimate 
 we can give of the number of species of gill-bearing 
 fungi, of the mushroom type, which have been found 
 in the British Islands, is eleven hundred, and yet of 
 these there are 'comparatively few which are known 
 to be positively dangerous. It is true that those 
 which are known are, for the most part, very virulent, 
 yet the number cannot be demonstrated to reach one 
 hundred. There are others, of course, which are 
 tasteless, insipid, bitter, or unpleasant, and unfit for 
 food, although not absolutely poisonous ; but the 
 most alarming estimates have no foundation in fact. 
 It must always be remembered that a fungus which 
 may be perfectly harmless if cooked and eaten whilst 
 fresh would just as probably be deleterious if gathered 
 and kept for a day or two, without cooking. Chemi- 
 cal changes take place so rapidly that they cannot 
 be cooked too soon, and not even the common mush- 
 room should be kept longer than possible. It would 
 
EXPLANATORY. 19 
 
 be a good cardinal maxim always to "cook without 
 delay." Like the caution on the physic bottle, 
 "before taken to be well shaken," it is homely but 
 wholesome. 
 
 The question is often propounded, Is there no 
 general rule by which good or harmless fungi can be 
 distinguished from those which are deleterious ? Many 
 attempts have been made to answer this question, 
 but none of them are satisfactory, except the negative 
 one, to the effect that no rule can be laid down which 
 shall be of universal application in the discrimination 
 of dangerous fungi. The only safeguard is to become 
 acquainted, by means of well-defined features, with 
 some of the best of the esculent species, and by no 
 means to experiment with those which are unknown. 
 It is true that this process will entail the trouble of 
 learning something, but better far to acquire the 
 necessary elementary information than run the risk 
 of mishap. We have always protested against foolish 
 risks, and cautioned would-be fungus eaters against 
 cooking and eating any kinds which they do not 
 know unmistakably. There is no difficulty in 
 recognising all the best kinds by means of ordinary 
 intelligence and care, and, when once known, so as to 
 be distinguished from others somewhat like them, or 
 from all the rest, then there is no fear of error. Good 
 fungi have usually a pleasant mushroomy odour, a 
 smell of new meal, a faint scent resembling anise, or 
 no particular odour at all. Then, again, a fragment 
 
20 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 broken off from the freshly-gathered fungus, if tasted, 
 should possess an agreeable nutty flavour, with no 
 acridity, sharpness, or tingling upon the tongue. 
 And, further, it is a most suspicious indication of bad 
 qualities if a fungus when broken, cut, or bruised 
 speedily turns of a deep blue or greenish colour. 
 Avoid, therefore, all fungi with a disagreeable odour, 
 a pungency of flavour, and a tendency to become 
 blue when bruised. 
 
 In order to facilitate our progress hereafter, and to 
 prevent repetition, it will be advisable at once to 
 explain the general features of a gill-bearing fungus, 
 of the mushroom type, with as little technicality as 
 possible. When these few simple terms are 
 thoroughly comprehended they can be alluded to 
 without explanation. Annexed is the outline of a 
 section cut through a fungus of the above kind, from 
 top to bottom. It will often be found very useful 
 and instructive to cut down such fungi as may be 
 met with, and compare the one with the other, care- 
 fully noting the minute differences. In the woodcut 
 a is the pileus, or cap, and b the stem which supports 
 it. The under side of the pileus, or cap, is occupied 
 by a series of parallel plates, or gills, c, which radiate 
 from the stem to the margin of the cap. A little 
 way down the stem is an indication, d, of the annulus, 
 or ring, which adheres to and surrounds the stem. 
 Some species have no ring, so that it is always of 
 importance to ascertain at once if the individual 
 
EXPLANATORY. 
 
 21 
 
 under examination has a ring or not. The stem is 
 sometimes solid throughout, and sometimes hollow 
 in the centre ; and in a few cases is so short as to be 
 scarcely visible. There is sometimes a loose, or 
 fixed, volva, or sheath, at the base of the stem, but it 
 is only present in one or two species which are 
 edible, and is not shown in the woodcut. In passing, 
 
 it may be remarked that, although the greater 
 number of fleshy fungi have the radiating plates, or 
 gills, on the under side of the pileus, or cap, yet there 
 are some in which the gills are replaced by tubes or 
 pores, or else by acute spines or teeth. 
 
 The gill-plates are variable in colour in different 
 species, and it is important that this colour should 
 
2 2 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 always be observed. Having found your mushroom 
 or toadstool, cut off the stem as close as possible to 
 the gills, then place the pileus, with the gills down- 
 wards, on a piece of paper, and let them remain for 
 a few hours, or throughout the night When re- 
 moved, a very fine dust will be observed to have 
 been thrown down on the paper from the gills. This 
 dust consists of the spores (or seeds) of the fungus, 
 which were produced on the naked gills, and have 
 fallen when mature. This deposit of spores will 
 either be white, salmon-coloured, brown, or tawny, 
 dark brown, or black. In the common mushroom, 
 for instance, they are of a dark purple brown. A 
 great number of species which have purple brown 
 spores are edible, whilst it is very rare indeed for a 
 species with salmon-coloured spores to be worth eat- 
 ing, and some are poisonous. The colour of the gills, 
 and of the spores, are of considerable importance, and 
 must be taken into account in determining a fungus. 
 
 When collecting fungi it is advisable to take into 
 account where they were found growing, whether in 
 woods, or in open lawns and pastures, because those 
 which are found in woods are not found in the 
 " open," and vice versd. Again, those which habitually 
 grow on rotting stumps and decayed trees, are to be 
 rarely found elsewhere. Very few good edible species 
 are to be found growing on trees. 
 
 There is an erroneous opinion extant, especially in 
 rural districts, that all fungi which are good to eat 
 
EXPLANATORY. 23 
 
 grow on the ground in open places, and that if the 
 cuticle or skin of the pileus cannot be peeled off 
 easily it is unfit for food. Many excellent species 
 will be found growing in woods, and the peeling of 
 the cuticle is no general test. 
 
 Instances have been observed and recorded in 
 which the same fungus, cooked and served at the 
 same table, has been eaten and enjoyed without 
 inconvenience by the majority of persons present, 
 whereas one individual has been affected injuriously, 
 and exhibited symptoms of fungus poisoning. We 
 are personally acquainted with one man who can 
 never eat a fragment of the ordinary mushroom, 
 either by itself, or as a condiment, without suffering 
 very severely in consequence. Such cases may be 
 exceptional, but the good or bad qualities of the 
 mushroom must not be determined by exceptional 
 cases. Even cultivated mushrooms have been known 
 to possess evil qualities when grown under peculiar 
 conditions, or when they have become infested with a 
 minute parasite. All fungi to be eaten should be 
 well grown, clean, and fresh, and also cooked in such 
 a manner as to be "digestible, and not spoilt in the 
 kitchen. These preliminary observations will enable 
 us now to proceed with the details of species to be 
 recommended, on the faith of a long personal ex- 
 perience. 
 
24 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 III.— THE COMMON MUSHROOM. 
 
 IN most countries, and in past times as well as the 
 present, the common mushroom (Agariais campestris) 
 has been held to occupy the place of honour amongst 
 edible fungi. In Europe, Asia, America, and Australia 
 it is equally esteemed, as it is, fortunately, thus widely 
 distributed over the world, and readily recognized by 
 natives or migrants, without fear or accident. That 
 there are. others equally good, and to some tastes 
 better, is not yet an article of general faith, and so 
 the " mushroom " continues to hold its reputation of 
 pre-eminence. The; roughest rustic, and the plainest 
 of cooks, equally.deem themselves capable of decid- 
 ing between a " mushroom " and a " toadstool," and, 
 truth to tell, seldom make any mistake. Whether it 
 be necessary or not, it is expedient that we -give a 
 brief outline of its principal features for the discrim- 
 ination of this fungus as found growing wild. The 
 cultivated varieties differ a little in appearance, but 
 are usually safe. 
 
 The mushroom is found growing amongst short 
 grass in parks, lawns, and open places, and seldom 
 exceeds three or four inches in diameter of the pileus, 
 or cap, and often less. The stem is scarcely so long 
 as the diameter of the pileus, and is proportionately 
 thick. The upper part of the stem is encircled by 
 
THE COMMON MUSHROOM. 25 
 
 a collar or ring, like a frill, the outer edge of which is 
 at first united to the edge of the pileus, covering the 
 gills, and only breaks away as the pileus expands, 
 and then falls down to form the collar round the stem. 
 This ring is rather thin, and easily torn, so that some- 
 times it is brushed away, or falls, leaving behind only 
 a thin line, or scar, to show where it has been. The 
 whole pileus and stem is of a creamy whiteness at first, 
 but becomes a little darker with age. To the finger 
 the texture of the surface resembles that of a soft kid 
 glove, and the outer skin may be peeled off from the 
 margin upwards, nearly to the top, in flakes. If this 
 fungus is cut through the middle of the pileus and 
 downwards through the stem, the flesh of the cap will 
 be seen to be thick, and white, sometimes turning a 
 little browner when cut. To the taste it somewhat 
 resembles a filbert, tinged with a characteristic mush- 
 room flavour. The gill-plates, radiating from the stem, 
 do not grow to it, but are free from the stem, and of a 
 delicate pink colour, which they retain for some time, 
 changing at length, with age, to dark purple brown. 
 This is an excellent character to be observed and borne 
 in mind, that the pink gills of the young mushrooms 
 become dark purple brown. There are " toadstools " 
 (for so we may call them) which have the gills pink, 
 not changing to dark brown, and some of these are 
 dangerous. All good mushrooms (of this species) 
 should have the gills at first pink, nearly white when 
 in the " button " state, and at length dark purple 
 
26 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 brown, and the spores which cover the gills are of the 
 same colour. When the stem is cut off, and the cap 
 laid gills downwards on a sheet of white paper for 
 a few hours, or all night, the spores will fall on the 
 paper in lines, and will appear almost black. 
 
 It is a popular error that mushrooms grow to their 
 full size during a single night, and that they dissolve 
 and vanish after the sun shines upon them. They are 
 rapid in growth, and rapid in decay ; but the same 
 mushroom may be watched growing and expanding 
 for two or three days, and then gradually decaying 
 away. Much depends on the dampness or dryness of 
 the season. In some seasons they are exceedingly 
 plentiful, whilst at other times they are comparatively 
 rare. This also is believed to depend chiefly on 
 climatic conditions. It is not unusual for cultivated 
 mushrooms to become attacked by a parasitic mould 
 which renders them unfit for food. This misfortune 
 rarely happens to the wild form, until it is in process 
 of decay. 
 
 Stables, outhouses, and cellars may be utilised for 
 the cultivation of mushrooms, and by ordinary care 
 success is almost certain. They may be grown also 
 in boxes and placed almost anywhere, so long as the 
 temperature and humidity is attended to. The 
 French are fond of growing them in cellars and caves. 
 The catacombs of Paris are noted for their produc- 
 tion of mushrooms in immense quantities. From the 
 Mery caves as many as 3000 pounds are sometimes 
 
THE COMMON MUSHROOM. 2*J 
 
 sent to market daily. In this country cave culture 
 seems to be almost, if not quite, unknown. Bricks of 
 mushroom spawn may be purchased of almost any 
 seedsman, and if manure can be obtained, domestic 
 cultivation might be much more common than 
 it is. We have heard of a crop being grown in a 
 hatbox, and we have seen them flourishing under 
 the shelves in a greenhouse. Of course, some per- 
 sons are far more successful than others, as is the 
 case with flowering plants. Experience teaches 
 wisdom. 
 
 The following method of cultivation has been re- 
 commended, and is often quoted : — " Collect a suffi- 
 cient quantity of fresh horse-droppings, as free from 
 straw as possible, lay it in an open shed in a heap, or 
 ridge ; here it will heat violently, and in consequence 
 should be now and then turned for sweetening. 
 After this has subsided to moderation it will be in 
 a fit state for forming into a bed. In the process of 
 making the bed, the dung should be put on in small 
 quantities, and beat firmly and equally together, until 
 it is the required size. In this state let it remain 
 until the highest degree of heat to which it is capable 
 of coming is ascertained, which may be readily done 
 by inserting a heat-stick, and pressing it with the 
 hand ; if not found violent, the spawn may be broken 
 up into pieces of two or three inches square, and put 
 into holes about three inches in depth, by six inches 
 asunder, over its surface ; after this, throw a very 
 
28 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 small quantity of well broken droppings over the 
 whole. In this state let it remain for two or three 
 weeks, when a loamy soil may be put on about an 
 inch or an inch and a half thick, and gently patted 
 with the spade. If the temperature of the house is 
 kept about 60° or 65°, mushrooms may be expected 
 in six weeks. It is not well to water the beds much, 
 particularly when bearing." But nearly every good 
 cultivator has his own method, or modification, and 
 is prepared to believe chiefly in himself. . 
 
 If there are different methods of cultivation, so 
 there are different methods also of cooking mush- 
 rooms, the two old popular methods of grilling, or 
 stewing, notwithstanding. Open grilling, or frying, 
 is by no means to be recommended for any fungi, 
 especially those of delicate flavour. - The best plan is 
 to lay them, when prepared, in a plate, or shallow 
 dish, and cover them with another, and then place 
 them in an oven, so that they are cooked gradually, 
 and all the aroma and delicate flavour retained, all 
 necessary adjuncts, such as butter, salt, pepper, or 
 gravy having been added. When fried or grilled, 
 whilst exposed, much of the aroma and flavour dis- 
 appears up the chimney. A modification of the 
 above method may thus be formulated : — Having 
 picked a number of freshly-gathered mushrooms, cut 
 them in pieces, wash in cold water, and dry them in 
 a cloth. Put them in a pan, with butter, parsley, 
 salt, and pepper ; cover closely, and place them over 
 
THE COMMON MUSHROOM. 29 
 
 a brisk fire. When ready, add cream and yolk of 
 egg to bind them together. 
 
 Some persons prefer, after cutting, to soak them in 
 oil for one or two hours, add a piece of garlic instead 
 of parsley, and cook as before. When ready, chopped 
 parsley and lemon juice may be added. 
 
 Stewed mushrooms may be prepared by selecting 
 the yqunger specimens, which are not fully expanded ; 
 wash in cold water, and dry with a cloth ; chop 
 quite finely, put them in a stewpan with a little butter 
 and pepper; let them stand over a brisk fire, and 
 when the butter is melted, squeeze in lemon juice, 
 and add jelly broth, according to quantity; stew 
 until reduced to the consistency of pea soup, and 
 serve with meat, fish, or poached eggs. 
 
 A correspondent has kindly placed at our disposal 
 a curious old formula copied from an old common- 
 place book of . the early part of the seventeenth 
 century. It is very interesting on account of its 
 antiquity, and as such is worthy of a place in the 
 present work. 
 
 "TO DRESS A DISH OF FUNGEE." 
 
 " Take them fresh gathered and put them betweene 
 two dishes, and sett them on a Chaifing Dish of 
 Coles, and there lett them Stewe, but put nothing to 
 them in the first Stewing for they will Yeald Liquor 
 enough of them selves, and When all the Water is 
 
3<D BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 stewed out of them, power that Liquor Cleane from 
 them and put a good quantitye of Sallitt Oyle unto 
 them and Stewe them therein. Wringe in the Joyce 
 of one or two Leamons, or else putt in some Vinniger 
 and put in a little Nuttmegg and two or three Blades 
 of Mace. 
 
 " If your Lord or Lady Loves not Oyle, Stewe them 
 with a Little Sweete Butter and a little White 
 Wine." 
 
 Approved methods of cooking mushrooms are 
 known to every experienced cook, and need not be 
 repeated ; most persons believe them good almost 
 any way. In the same manner mushroom catsup — 
 or, as locally called, " mushroom ketchup " — may be 
 readily manufactured. Unfortunately, very much of 
 that decoction which is sold under the name of " cat- 
 sup " is of questionable origin, and often innocent of 
 mushrooms. Those who desire to possess good 
 " catsup " should make it for themselves, as the 
 process is easy. To know whether "catsup" is- 
 genuine, or only imitation, it is only necessary to 
 submit a drop to the microscope, and search for the 
 spores of the mushroom, which remain intact, if 
 present, and in considerable number. Probably the 
 result will not be satisfactory when compared side by 
 side with the home made article. 
 
THE MEADOW MUSHROOM. 3 I 
 
 IV.— THE MEADOW MUSHROOM. 
 
 NEXT in importance to the common mushroom, and 
 often confounded with it, is the meadow mushroom 
 {Agaricus arvensis), sometimes called, by way of 
 distinction, the horse mushroom, a name most 
 common in rural districts. Country people generally 
 discriminate between these two species, and hold 
 that whilst it is larger, and more imposing, the horse 
 mushroom is not so good to eat, but that it is 
 stronger and better for making ketchup than the 
 genuine mushroom. There are some persons who 
 contend that, for all purposes, the fuller flavour of the 
 meadow mushroom makes it preferable to the smaller 
 species found in parks and lawns, or by the roadside. 
 The distinctions between them, beside the places in 
 which they grow, are that the cap of the horse 
 mushroom, when expanded, is sometimes as large as 
 a dessert plate, often six inches, and quite smooth, 
 having the texture of a good kid glove. They are 
 more gregarious in habit, sometimes forming large 
 rings; or parts of rings, and the gills are not at first 
 pink, but dirty white. When cut or bruised the flesh 
 turns yellowish brown, more or less deep, and in age 
 the gills are almost black. This is the kind most 
 commonly exposed for sale at greengrocers' shops in 
 London and its vicinity, and undoubtedly is the 
 
32 BRITISH EDI1SLE FUNGI. 
 
 fungus with which the ordinary Cockney is most 
 practically acquainted. It certainly has a stronger 
 odour than the true mushroom, and a stronger flavour, 
 especially when raw. We have often found it very 
 agreeable to gather and eat fresh young specimens of 
 the mushroom, whilst the gills are still pink. Not 
 only agreeable, but useful, for when abroad on a day's 
 excursion, one or two of these raw specimens are an 
 excellent substitute for sandwiches, as they satisfy 
 hunger, are nutritive and digestible, and very pleasant 
 and grateful to the palate. Young specimens of the 
 horse mushroom may be eaten in the same manner, 
 but in this state they are not so agreeable. Either of 
 them may be sliced and placed inside a sandwich, as 
 a sort of condiment, with good results. Persoon says 
 that the horse mushroom is superior to the common 
 mushroom in smell, taste, and digestibility, for which 
 reasons it is generally preferred in France'. 
 
 Allusion has already been made to the large size of 
 this species. An instance has been recorded of a 
 specimen weighing five pounds and six ounces and 
 measuring forty-three inches in circumference. 
 Withering, the botanist, mentions another which 
 weighed'fourteen pounds. We have had no experience 
 of specimens exceeding ten or twelve inches in 
 diameter, although we have been told that they will 
 attain as much as twenty or twenty-four inches, but. 
 of this we must beg to remain sceptical. 
 
 There is something so characteristic in this, as well 
 
PL. 3. 
 
THE MEADOW MUSHROOM. 33 
 
 as the common mushroom, that we cannot help feeling 
 surprise that anyone, with an ordinary amount of 
 common -sense, should confound them with anything 
 else. There is no other species found at the same 
 season of the year and in the same localities with 
 which it could be confused. In most cases of fungus 
 poisoning which have come under notice there must 
 have been recklessness or profound ignorance, for the 
 fungi eaten, wherever identified, bear no resemblance 
 to the common or the meadow mushroom. A cartoon 
 was issued in one of the public journals a few years 
 ago, in which a buxom damsel was represented as 
 returning from collecting fungi, and meeting the 
 Squire, who was in the act of cautioning her as to the 
 result of her proceedings. " You can't be too parti- 
 cular — dangerous things, mushrooms." To which the 
 damsel replies, " It doesn't much matter ; they're only 
 for my mother-in-law." Cautions are proverbially 
 useless now as well as in older times, when every 
 little wood or coppice was adorned with a notice- 
 board, on which was written, " Man-traps and spring- 
 guns set here." 
 
 There is a large variety (called villaticus) of the 
 meadow mushroom, which also attains ten or twelve 
 inches in diameter, and is quite as good an article of 
 food, but unfortunately it is rare. The principal 
 difference resides in the surface of the cap or pileus, 
 which is much darker, and broken up into a great 
 number of flat scales ; these are darker still, and lie 
 
 C 
 
34 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 so flat as to appear to be glued down to the surface. 
 This variety is mentioned here on account of the 
 difference in its appearance, which would ensure its 
 rejection by a careful person as not agreeing with our 
 description of " a smooth, whitish cap, like a kid 
 glove." The stem is often two inches thick, or even 
 more, but short in proportion, and nearly solid. It 
 is so rare a form that even those persons who are 
 addicted to the study of fungi from year to year have 
 most of them never seen it. It is needless to refer to 
 similar- rare varieties in a chapter of this kind, which 
 is not intended for the professional fungus hunter, to 
 whom alone they have any interest. 
 
 For some obscure reason this kind of mushroom 
 has sometimes been called the St George's mushroom, 
 and by this name it is believed to be known in 
 Hungary, where the inhabitants regard it as the special - 
 gift of St George. But there is another, and quite a 
 different mushroom, commonly found in this country 
 in spring, to which the name " St George's mush- 
 room " is applied with more reason, since it makes its 
 appearance about the time of St George's Day. To 
 this genuine, St George we shall have to refer again 
 in detail, and only allude to it here in order to protest 
 against the horse mushroom being dedicated to the 
 saint. 
 
 Several different kinds of fungi have had the credit 
 of forming " fairy-rings " on the grass in meadows, 
 and the horse mushroom is one of these, from its habit 
 
THE MEADOW MUSHROOM. 35 
 
 of often growing in rings, but it is not the real Fairy- 
 Ring champignon. 
 
 In all matters of cooking the same processes may 
 be used indiscriminately for the common mushroom 
 and the horse mushroom. In addition to the recom- 
 mendations in the chapter devoted to the common 
 mushroom, we may give a few others for the sake 
 of variety. The novelty of potted mushrooms may be 
 secured byselectingsmall open specimens, whichshould 
 be trimmed of their stems, and rubbed ; a quart of these 
 with three ounces of butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of a mixture of cayenne pepper 
 and ground mace, or grated nutmeg, should be stewed 
 for ten or fifteen minutes, or until the mushrooms are 
 tender. Take them out and drain them on a sloping 
 dish, and when cold press them into small pots, and 
 pour clarified butter over them, in which state they 
 will keep for a week or two. If required to be kept 
 longer writing paper must be cut to the size and laid 
 over the butter, and melted suet poured over it. In 
 this manner they may be kept several weeks in a 
 cool dry place. 
 
 Pickled mushrooms are a favourite with some 
 persons, although others may object to them on the 
 ground that they lose so much of their flavour in the 
 process as to be scarcely recognisable. It is usual to 
 select those which are called " button mushrooms " in 
 which the edge of the cap is not parted from the stem, 
 but retains still its globose shape. The stems are 
 
36 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 cut off short, so that the fungus resembles a little 
 white ball, perhaps not more than an inch in diameter. 
 They should be rubbed quite clean, and laid in salt, 
 and water for forty-eight hours. Sufficient vinegar 
 should be boiled with black pepper and mace, with a 
 clove or two, and then stood aside till quite cold. 
 The mushrooms should be packed closely in wide- 
 mouthed bottles, a little pepper sprinkled over them, 
 and then covered with the vinegar, and corked close. 
 In this manner they should keep for years. 
 
 There is an old-fashioned method which is simple 
 and excellent for the large horse mushroom. It 
 consists in peeling off the cuticle of the cap, and then 
 cutting the stem close to the gills. Lay them with 
 the gills upwards in a shallow dish, sprinkle with salt 
 and pepper, and place a lump of butter in the centre 
 of each. Cover close and place in an oven. Or, in 
 default of this, cook in an enamelled frying pan, 
 keeping them still covered until done. When ready 
 serve on toast. 
 
 Stuffed mushrooms are recommended by a French 
 author to be thus prepared. Take mushrooms of a 
 medium size, and prepare for them at the same time 
 the following stuffing. A piece of butter, grated 
 bacon, some bread crumbs, sweet herbs, garlic, accord-- 
 ing to taste, salt, coarse pepper, and the least morsel 
 of spice ; when these are all well mixed, turn over the 
 mushrooms with the gills upwards, clear away the 
 stems and fill the hollow with this stuffing ; then wrap 
 
BROWN MUSHROOMS. 37 
 
 each in paper, and cook them in a pan, adding a 
 spoonful of oil as occasion may require. If preferred, 
 a few slices of fowl or game may be added. 
 
 Doubtless it would not be difficult to collect together 
 one hundred recipes for cooking mushrooms, but this 
 is not our present duty. We have furnished sufficient 
 for ordinary use, and feminine ingenuity may suggest 
 others. It cannot be too often repeated that the 
 fresher the mushrooms are at the time of cooking the 
 better will be the result. A connoisseur will detect, 
 almost at once, the difference between the flavour of 
 the common and the horse . mushroom. And so with 
 all other species ; no two of them are precisely the 
 same, so that, when other species are recommended, 
 it must not be presumed that, when cooked, they will 
 be precisely like the mushroom, because they will be 
 precisely different. 
 
 V.— BROWN MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Under the title of " Brown Mushrooms " we must 
 have a few words to say on two or three kinds, which 
 resemble in many points the ordinary mushroom, are 
 equally excellent, but are unfortunately by no means 
 common. 
 
 Scaly Brown Mushroom {Agarkus Elvensis). — 
 We have never had the good fortune to meet with 
 
3§ BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 this kind of mushroom more than three or four times ; 
 and then it was collected under the drip of large oak 
 trees in pastures. It was first of all found in this 
 country, but has since been met with in France. For 
 size it exceeds the common mushroom, but is scarcely 
 so large as the horse mushroom, and usually grows 
 gregariously, a number together, though not forming 
 a ring. It differs from both the above in being much 
 darker coloured, almost purplish brown, with the top 
 of the cap, or pileus, broken up into large brown 
 scales, which are somewhat conical towards the 
 margin. This scaly cap gives it a most remarkable 
 appearance, but the odour is # so " mushroomy " that it 
 would at once be supposed to be a near relation of 
 the mushroom, notwithstanding the great difference 
 in appearance. The gills at first are of a brownish 
 flesh colour, becoming dark purplish brown, like those 
 of the mushroom, with age. The ring around the 
 stem is large, warted on the under side, but soon 
 hanging down like a turn-down collar. When cut 
 through the cap the thick, firm flesh will be found of 
 a dirty white, but not changing colour, or very 
 slightly, on exposure to the air. When fully ex- 
 panded the cup is generally five or six inches in 
 diameter, and the stem is proportionately robust. 
 
 The flavour, when cooked, has been strongly com- 
 mended by all who have experienced it. Some have 
 gone so far as to declare it superior to the finest 
 mushroom ever eaten, and all have confessed it in 
 
BROWN MUSHROOMS. 39 
 
 every way equal to the best. It has not, like many 
 edible species, a flavour peculiar to itself, but entirely 
 of the mushroom kind, resembling the cultivated 
 varieties rather than the wild ones, and not so 
 strongly flavoured as the horse mushroom. The 
 mode of cooking is precisely that of ordinary mush- 
 rooms, but we decidedly prefer them grilled or fried 
 with butter, and served on toast. We have only 
 found them in the latter part of August and begin- 
 ning of September, and never singly but always in 
 sufficient number to furnish half a dozen persons 
 with a satisfactory breakfast. Although we never 
 have failed to search the same spot, year by year, at 
 the same period, we have been disappointed, in some 
 seasons, in finding no trace of them ; but in succeed- 
 ing years they have appeared again. 
 
 Bleeding Brown Mushroom (Agaricus hamorr- 
 hoidarius). — Although this fungus is often found at 
 the foot of oaks, yet we have never met with it in 
 open pastures, but always in woods, chiefly by the 
 side of roads, and paths, running through woods, and 
 never more than two or three together, often solitary. 
 In appearance it differs from the above, in that the 
 colour is almost that of the ground on which it grows, 
 so that it may be passed over as a lump of soil, when 
 not fully expanded. The colour may be described as 
 wholly of a dirty brown, something like brick earth, 
 or clayey soil, and the pileus is not so distinctly scaly 
 as the foregoing, the scales being smaller, and more 
 
4-0 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 closely pressed to the flesh. It cannot by any means 
 be termed attractive, especially as it turns darker, and 
 lurid, wherever pressed or bruised, and when cut or 
 broken becomes of a dull blood-red. We have 
 seldom seen it exceed four or five inches in diameter, 
 and often less. The stem is generally a little swollen 
 at the base, and of a dirty light brown colour, as 
 well as the large pendulous ring. The gills are at 
 first flesh-coloured, with a rosy tinge, but at length 
 become of a dark purple umber, scarcely different 
 from that of the common mushroom. We have no 
 knowledge of any species with which this could 
 possibly be confounded, if the change of colour to 
 lurid red when cut or bruised is borne in mind. It is 
 true that there are others with a tinge of red on the 
 stem, but none in which it takes the appearance of 
 bleeding when wounded. It may be taken for 
 granted that this also is a rare species, or at any rate 
 a sporadic and local one, and if it were not so re- 
 markable, and such excellent eating, would scarcely 
 warrant a notice. 
 
 Nothing can be added of methods of preparing 
 this species for the table at all different from 
 those in vogue for the common mushroom. We 
 do not recognize anything peculiar in its flavour, 
 which could distinguish it from the mushroom. 
 It is not so juicy or delicate flavoured as the scaly 
 brown mushroom, but, for all that, it is entirely of the 
 mushroom type, and even a connoisseur would fail to 
 
BROWN MUSHROOMS. 4 1 
 
 distinguish them. There is a variety of the common 
 mushroom described by Berkeley, under the name of 
 rufescens, which is said to grow in pastures, the flesh 
 of which turns a bright red when bruised. The gills 
 of this variety are described as quite white when 
 young. We have never seen anything like this, and 
 suspect that it may have been some accidental 
 variety, or at any rate such a rare occurrence that it 
 has never appeared again. 
 
 WOOD MUSHROOM (Agaricus silvaticus).— -This is 
 by no means uncommon in woods, but scattered and 
 solitary, or seldom more than two or three together. 
 It is hardly like the ordinary mushroom in appear- 
 ance, and hence is often a puzzle to young fungus 
 hunters. The stem is thin and lanky, usually a little 
 thickened at the base, and, when cut, it exhibits a 
 hollow, like a tube, down the centre. The pileus is 
 brown and fibrous, or covered with little darker 
 scales, and the flesh is thinner than in any of the 
 species we have as yet enumerated. The most 
 common size is for the pileus to-be about three inches 
 across, and the stem five or six inches high, and 
 scarcely half an inch thick, except at the base. The 
 ring round the stem is thin, like a membrane, becoming 
 dark brown, and situated at a considerable distance 
 down the stem, so that it is at length but little above 
 the middle, between the under side of the cap and the 
 ground. The gills are thin and crowded, and have 
 rather a reddish tinge at first, but very soon turn 
 
42 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 brown, and are ultimately as dark as in the horse 
 mushroom. The stem is always whitish, or yellowish 
 white, except when stained with the spores. Un- 
 luckily insects are fond of it, and the pileus and 
 top of the stem, when mature, are generally "mag- 
 goty." 
 
 This is but little inferior to the mushroom in its 
 edible qualities, although we can scarcely consider it 
 equal to that, or either of the above named. It is 
 deficient in aroma, and not so delicate in flavour, and 
 as the pileus is thin, there is very little flesh when 
 cooked ; but it may be accepted as a substitute for 
 the mushroom, and may be mixed with other species 
 in the preparation of "ketchup." There are no 
 special methods of cooking it, except, it may be 
 said scarcely to merit stewing, and to be unfit for 
 pickling. 
 
 This concludes what we may term the true mush- 
 room group of edible species, in which the flavour is 
 all similar but differing chiefly in delicacy or intensity. 
 There are therefore five species worthy of recom- 
 mendation, namely, the common mushroom, growing 
 in parks, pastures, or lawns ; the horse mushroom, 
 found usually in meadows or damp pastures ; the 
 scaly brown mushroom, growing in company under 
 the drip of oak trees ; the bleeding mushroom found 
 by roadsides in woods ; and the wood mushroom not 
 uncommon under trees in woods. To all these we 
 may add the cultivated varieties of the common 
 
BROWN MUSHROOMS. 43 
 
 mushroom, which are raised artificially from mush- 
 room spawn. In all these the spores are small, 
 elliptical, and of a very dark brown, almost black 
 colour ; indeed they seem to be black when thrown 
 down upon white paper, but decidedly brown when 
 viewed by transmitted light under the microscope. 
 
 When alluding to some of the modes of cooking, as 
 applied to the common mushroom, we omitted men- 
 tion of one which will commend itself to all whose 
 stomachs will bear rich food, without fear of bilious 
 results. It consists in cleaning and slicing up the 
 mushrooms, and boiling, or stewing them very gently 
 in milk — just enough to cover them. When suffici- 
 ently stewed add salt and spice, a lump of butter, and 
 thicken with good thick cream ; stir them well to- 
 gether and serve. Wherever the richness of the dish 
 is no obstacle, this will be found an improvement on 
 the old method of stewing in water, and thickening 
 with flour, or even to stewing in gravy or stock. Let 
 no one blame the mushrooms in the event of this 
 dish disagreeing with them, since it must be evident 
 that it would be a rash venture with a delicate 
 stomach. 
 
44 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 VI.— SHAGGY CAPS. 
 
 A DECEASED friend always characterised the fungus 
 about which we are now to write as " the fungus of 
 civilization," and the reason alleged for this cogno- 
 men was that it was always to be found near human 
 dwellings. There is no doubt of the fact that the 
 fungus known by the scientific name of Coprinus 
 comatus commonly makes its appearance, in the 
 metropolitan area, on waste places and clearings 
 which are being operated upon by the house-builder, 
 so that it is in such spots that we invariably go in 
 search of it for domestic purposes. 
 
 There is no universal common name for this 
 characteristic fungus, although it has by some been 
 called the " Maned Agaric " and the " Shaggy Caps." 
 Perhaps the latter is as good an appellation as we 
 could find, as will be manifest from the description. 
 It is rarely found growing singly, but usually in 
 clusters, bursting through the ground like the dirty 
 white tops of pigeon's eggs ; but the cap or pileus is 
 from the first elongated and cylindrical, and not egg- 
 shaped or oval. When fully grown it will measure 
 fully six inches from the ground to its apex, and 
 often nine or ten inches. The cap itself seldom 
 exceeds four or five inches, in shape almost like an 
 extinguisher, with a rounded top, or rather an inverted 
 
SHAGGY CAPS. 45 
 
 tumbler, the diameter being less than half the 
 height. The stem is Jong, erect, and a little taper- 
 ing towards the top, nearly smooth, and quite white, 
 from half an inch thick. The cap is dirty white, with 
 a tinge of ochre on the top, covered with shaggy 
 threads, which hang together like dependent scales, 
 fringing also the edge of the cap. When cut down 
 the centre the gill plates will be seen to be very 
 broad and lanceolate, tapering to each extremity, 
 reaching to the stem, but not attached to it. At first 
 they are white, but soon. become darker, with a lilac 
 tint, towards the edge, and finally pass from a dingy 
 purple to black. It is not unusual for the gills, when 
 changing, to have a rosy tinge. There is one 
 peculiarity which distinguishes this (and all species 
 of Coprinus) from the true Agarics, and that consists 
 in the gills, after full maturity, melting away into a 
 black inky fluid, and falling in drops to the ground. 
 After being some time gathered, even if immature, 
 instead of drying up, the whole mass, excepting the 
 stem, deliquesces, passing into a dark slimy mass. 
 In this condition it has by no means a prepossessing 
 appearance. Whilst fresh and firm it is neat, if not 
 attractive, although usually fragments of the soil 
 attach themselves to the pileus, reminding one of a 
 dirty street Arab, to which it has some analogy. 
 The spores are large, many times larger than those 
 of the common mushroom, and very black. At the 
 first there is a loose membranous collar, or ring, 
 
46 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 around the stem, but this soon disappears. It seems 
 impossible for any person, in full possession of their 
 senses, to confound this with any other known species, 
 or if so, with one closely related to it, and equally 
 harmless. We have many a time and oft been 
 cautioned by the natives whilst collecting these fungi 
 that they were only "nasty toadstools," and some 
 have gone so far as to declare them ""rank p'ison," 
 although, in point of fact, they are far more uni- 
 versally wholesome than the ordinary mushroom, 
 and have never been known to cause the slightest 
 inconvenience. 
 
 For cooking purposes these fungi should be 
 gathered before the gills turn black, although when 
 quite black they may be converted into good " cat- 
 sup." The caps being so commonly sandy, or 
 sprinkled with fragments of soil, should be washed 
 and then wiped dry, which process will remove most 
 of the scaly threads. The cuticle will not peel off as 
 in the mushroom. In flavour, when cooked in any 
 way, it much resembles the mushroom, to which it is 
 quite equal, if not superior. In one particular it 
 possesses an advantage, since it is clearly more 
 digestible, and less likely to disagree with persons of 
 delicate constitutions. The old caution should not 
 need repetition — always to cook all fungi as soon as 
 possible after they are gathered, for then they are in 
 their greatest perfection. Amongst the rural popula- 
 tion there is a strong prejudice against this species 
 
SHAGGY CAPS. 47 
 
 which, in common with another to be presently- 
 referred to, are, almost more than any others, desig- 
 nated " toadstools " by way of contempt. 
 
 There is another fungus, closely related to the 
 above, and resembling it in many particulars, which 
 is equally edible, and nearly equal to it in flavour. 
 The " Inky Mushroom " (Coprinus atramentarius) re- 
 ceived that name because, when it becomes old, the 
 gills melt away into a thick, black, inky fluid, which 
 may be used as ink. In this respect it resembles the 
 "Shaggy Caps" above described, only that perhaps 
 it deliquesces rather more readily. It grows in dense 
 clusters, mostly about old stumps, or from buried 
 decayed wood, or, not unfrequently, by waysides, in 
 gardens, and on lawns, without any suspicion of 
 dead wood ; but it never grows on dung or manure. 
 The cap is grey or slaty-colour, smooth and shining, 
 often compressed laterally, and grooved. The top is 
 generally rather dawny, sprinkled at first with small 
 scales, and the margin rather lobed or scalloped. 
 The gills are much the same as in the previous 
 species, which it equals in size. Perhaps more than 
 any other this is the victim of spiteful molestation by 
 small boys and uneducated peasantry, for every 
 exposed cluster is sure to be kicked about and de- 
 stroyed almost as soon as it appears above ground. 
 The reason for this may be found in the popular 
 belief that it is a poisonous toadstool, and certainly 
 when in the stage of decay it is not in the least 
 
48 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 inviting. Even when young the livid grey colour is 
 not attractive, and the patches of dirt adhering to the 
 cap help to render it only the more forbidding. 
 
 The edible qualities of this mushroom are by no 
 means to be despised, especially when young, before 
 the gills have changed colour ; and after the latter 
 have turned quite black, but the dripping stage has 
 not commenced, either by themselves or mixed with 
 others they will yield an excellent '' catsup." Like 
 the preceding, they are preferable stewed, or added 
 to soups. 
 
 It has already been mentioned that the black 
 fluid, caused by the melting of the gills, may be used 
 as ink, when mixed with gum water, so as to ensure 
 permanency. A curious proposal was made some 
 years ago to utilize this ink for printing bank notes, 
 and other documents subject to forgery. The advan- 
 tage being that at any period of time, by moistening 
 the letters, the large spores would appear quite 
 distinctly under the microscope, and the genuine ink 
 at once determined. Ordinary ink, having no such 
 origin, would present no such appearance. To verify 
 this, it is only necessary to write a word or two, by 
 dipping a pen in the fluid dripping from the gills of 
 a decaying Coprinus, allowing it to dry, and remain 
 dry for a few days, then damp it, and either remove 
 the ink by means of a clean camel-hair pencil to a 
 glass slide, or examine in situ, with the microscope, 
 and a quarter inch objective. Should such a sugges- 
 
PARASOL MUSHROOMS. 49 
 
 tion as this ever prove to be practicable, the " inky 
 fungi " would secure a market-value beyond that 
 which would accrue from their use as food. Hitherto, 
 no successful effort has been made in the direction of 
 cultivation of these species, because there has been 
 no demand for them ; should such a demand arise, 
 some sort of cultivation is not impossible. 
 
 VII.— PARASOL MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Almost the greatest, if not the greatest, favourite 
 with fungus eaters is the " Parasol mushroom " 
 (Agaricus procerus). It is certainly graceful and 
 elegant in appearance, dry and clean to the touch, 
 easily recognized, and, more than all, delicious at the 
 table. Surely all the attributes are combined, and 
 yet how few, except regular fungus eaters, know the 
 " Parasol." It has a soft, spreading, regular cap, 
 from three to seven inches broad, with a large boss or 
 nipple standing up in the centre, of a dark brown 
 colour, and broad, reddish brown scales disposed 
 somewhat regularly over the rest of the surface, on 
 a whitish, silky, fibrous substratum. The margin 
 fringed with the ends of the threads. The stem 
 slender, erect and graceful, from eight to ten inches 
 in length, and not more than half-an-inch in thick- 
 ness, swollen at the bottom into a distinct bulb, but 
 
 D 
 
5<D BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 with no sheath. The lower part of the stem varie- 
 gated with small closely pressed scales, and the 
 upper part adorned with a large conspicuous collar or 
 frill. This collar is apt to become loosened from its 
 attachment to the stem, and movable. The top of 
 the stem deeply sunk into the cap ; the white gills 
 numerous, stopping short before reaching the stem, 
 so as to leave a naked space or groove around it ; 
 smell and taste pleasant ; such is the general appear- 
 ance of this favourite mushroom, which occurs on the 
 ground, or amongst dead leaves, under trees amongst 
 grass, in the open, or on hedge banks, in late summer 
 or early autumn. Each individual grows by itself, 
 and not in clusters, but several are often found in the 
 neighbourhood of each other. 
 
 There is a companion species, which much re- 
 sembles it {Agaricus rachodes), indeed, so much so 
 that some persons consider them only varieties. It 
 has been remarked that in some localities only 
 rachodes is found, and in others only procerus. It is 
 only necessary to point out the differences, for in 
 other points they will be found to agree. When 
 young the cap is more globose ; the scales on the 
 mature cap are more persistent ; the stem is free 
 from the snake-like markings at the base, and the 
 bulb at the base has a more distinct margin. There 
 is also a tendency in the flesh to become reddish or 
 brownish when cut or bruised. At one time, and 
 not so many years ago, this species was held to be 
 
PARASOL MUSHROOMS. 5 1 
 
 suspicious, and some taught that it was unwholesome, 
 but this was undoubtedly a mere guess from the 
 change of colour when broken. Practically there is 
 no difference in their edible qualities, and we have 
 eaten both of them many times and oft. Similar 
 stations and the same season of the year produce 
 both. 
 
 Another but more slender species is common in 
 some localities, and not found at all in others 
 {Agaricus gracilentus). It grows amongst grass by 
 the roadside, but is thinner in the flesh, and not so 
 much commended. There is a slight resemblance to 
 the Parasol, but it is smaller, and the scales on the 
 cap are much smaller and less conspicuous, the stem 
 is thinner and almost white, with but a slight swell- 
 ing at the base. There is no conspicuous brown 
 apex to the cap, which is less pointed, and less 
 fibrous in the cuticle and margin. The entire 
 stature is about six inches, but the erect stem is 
 scarcely thicker than a pipe stem. It is to be found 
 about the same period of the year as the above, but 
 would hardly be sought after provided the larger 
 species could be obtained. 
 
 If it were not comparatively rare the fawn-coloured 
 Parasol would compete with the true Parasol, in 
 culinary value. But this {Agaricus excoriatus) is the 
 rarest of the four species, and least like a . parasol in 
 shape. The cap is not more than 2| inches broad 
 and of a general fawn colour. The cuticle is smooth 
 
52 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 and thin, breaking up into irregular patches which 
 adhere to the cap. Beneath this broken cuticle the 
 surface is white and silky. The stem is about two 
 inches long, scarcely thickened at the base and 
 dirty white ; near the top is a broad collar, which 
 readily separates and becomes movable. The whole 
 substance is soft and spongy, with very little odour. 
 It will be observed that it differs in general appear- 
 ance from the other three kinds in having large ir- 
 regular patches of the cuticle on the cap instead of 
 scales, and in a shorter, and proportionately shorter 
 stem. At first sight it would hardly seem to be 
 related to them. This is, quite a summer species, 
 making its appearance about May or June, but not 
 after the end of August. Sometimes it is not recog- 
 nized for years. 
 
 There are several other species of less note which 
 agree with the above in having a ring, and the white 
 gills scarcely reaching the stem, but their determina- 
 tion had better be left to the professed mycologist 
 as they are not of sufficient importance to be con- 
 sidered as regular edible species, and they require 
 good figures for their accurate identification. It is 
 better to limit the number of kinds to be recom- 
 mended than to risk any chance of confusion or 
 mistaken identity. We would'lose no opportunity of 
 cautioning those who have no general notion of fungi 
 against making experiments in eating kinds of which 
 they have no knowledge, or entertain any doubt. 
 
PARASOL MUSHROOMS. 53 
 
 The Parasol mushroom is known and appreciated 
 throughout Europe, and is doubtless one of the first 
 class for the table, with the great advantage that only 
 dense stupidity could confound it with any suspicious 
 species. Dr Bull says of it, "there can be no 
 question but that, when young and quickly grown, it 
 is a delicious fungus. It has a high anc * delicate 
 flavour without the heavy richness which belongs to 
 the ordinary field mushroom." He adds that he had 
 prevailed on many persons to try it, all, without 
 exception have liked it, and about one third of the 
 number have thought it quite equal and some have 
 proclaimed it superior to the mushroom itself. 
 
 Broiled Parasol Mushroom. — Remove the 
 scales and stalks, and broil lightly over a clear fire 
 on both sides for a few minutes ; arrange them on a 
 dish, over fresh made well-divided toast ; sprinkle 
 with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter 
 on each ; set before a brisk fire to melt the butter, 
 and serve quickly. 
 
 Baked Parasol Mushroom. — Remove the scales 
 and stalks, and place the caps in layers in a dish ; 
 put a little butter on each, and season with pepper 
 and salt. Cover lightly and bake for twenty minutes 
 or half an hour, according to the number in the dish. 
 Put them on hot toast in a hot dish. Pour the hot 
 sauce over them and serve quickly. 
 
 Stewed Parasol Mushroom. — Remove the 
 stalks and scales from young specimens, and throw 
 
54 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 each one as you do so into a basin of fresh water, 
 slightly acidulated with the juice' of a lemon or a 
 little good vinegar. When all are prepared remove 
 them from the water, and put them into a stewpan 
 with a very small piece of fresh butter, sprinkle with 
 white pepper and salt, and add a little lemon juice. 
 Cover up closely, and stew for half-an-hour. Then 
 add a spoonful of flour with sufficient cream, or 
 cream and milk, until the same has the thickness of 
 cream. Season to taste, and stew again gently until 
 all are perfectly tender. Remove all the butter from 
 the surface and serve in a hot dish, garnished with 
 slices of lemon. A little mace, nutmeg, or catsup, 
 may be added, if preferred, but some think that the 
 spice spoils the flavour. 
 
 Parasol Sauce. —Chop up about half a pint of 
 these agarics, pepper and salt, and add an ounce of 
 butter rolled in flour. Put in a stewpan over a slow 
 fire for a few minutes ; add half a pint of milk, or 
 better still, cream, and boil gently, stirring all the 
 time until it is sufficiently thick and smooth. Pour 
 round boiled fowls or rabbits, or any light fricassee. 
 
 Beef or veal stock may be used when a brown 
 sauce is required ; and some think a little mace or 
 nutmeg, or a few drops of Indian Soy, or a little 
 Harvey sauce, a good addition. The brown sauce is 
 excellent for steaks, cutlets, game, or any kind of 
 ragout. 
 
 Scalloped Parasol Mushroom. — Mince young 
 
PARASOL MUSHROOMS. 55 
 
 fresh agarics, season with pepper, salt, and a little 
 lemon juice, add a little butter, and stew in a warm 
 oven for ten minutes, then put them in the scallop 
 tin, layer by layer, with fresh bread crumbs moistened 
 with milk, cream, or good gravy; bake for five 
 minutes, and brown well before a quick fire. 
 
 Procerus Pie. — Cut the fresh agarics in small 
 pieces, and cover the bottom of a pie dish. Pepper, 
 salt, and place on them small shreds of fresh bacon, 
 then put a layer of mashed potatoes, and so fill the 
 dish layer by layer, with a cover of mashed potatoes 
 for the crust. Bake well for half-an-hour, and brown 
 before a quick fire. 
 
 Procerus Omelette.— Mince some young fresh 
 agarics ; season with pepper and salt ; add butter 
 and set them in the oven whilst you whisk well the 
 whites and yolks of half a dozen eggs ; then put two 
 ounces of butter into the frying pan, and heat until it 
 begins to brown ; having again well whisked up the 
 eggs, with three tablespoonfuls of the prepared agarics 
 and a little milk, pour it lightly into the boiling 
 butter ; stir one way, and fry on one side only for five 
 or six minutes ; drain it from the fat ; roll it up and 
 serve quickly on a hot well covered dish. 
 
 Potted Procerus. — Remove the scales and 
 stalks from young fresh specimens ; sprinkle with 
 pepper and salt, and set aside for three or four hours, 
 then place them in a stewpan with the liquor that 
 will have exuded, and stew until dry; next fry in 
 
56 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 butter for a few minutes ; put them into small jars, 
 and when cold pour in as much butter melted as 
 will just cover them ; when again cold pour on a 
 little melted suet and tie down with bladder. When 
 required for use soak them for two or three hours in 
 a little warm milk and water, and stew with milk, 
 cream, or stock, and use in any way that may be 
 required. 
 
 Essence of Procerus. — Sprinkle young but full 
 grown agarics with salt, and let them stand for six 
 hours. Then beat them well up, and the next day 
 strain off the liquor, and boil very slowly until it is 
 reduced to one half the quantity. This will not keep 
 long, but if one eighth part of good French brandy, 
 or half its quantity of any wine, be added, and 
 bottled carefully, it will then keep for any reasonable 
 time. 
 
 Procerus Ketchup.— Take full grown, but not 
 worm-eaten agarics, and place them layer by. layer 
 in a deep pan, sprinkling each layer as it is put in 
 with a little salt. The next day stir them well up 
 several times, so as to mash and extract the juice. 
 On the third day strain off the liquor, measure and 
 boil for ten minutes, then to every pint of the liquor 
 add half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter of an 
 ounce of bruised ginger, a blade of mace, a clove or 
 two, and a teaspoonful of mustard seed. Boil again 
 for half an hour, put in two or three bay leaves, and 
 set aside till quite cold. Pass through a strainer and 
 
ST GEORGES MUSHROOM. 57 
 
 bottle ; cork well and dip the ends in resin ; a very- 
 little Chili vinegar is an improvement, and some add 
 a glass of port wine, or strong ale, to every bottle. 
 
 The majority of the above are from the " Wool- 
 hope Club " receipts. 
 
 VIII.— ST GEORGE'S MUSHROOM. 
 
 The only really good spring mushroom, except the 
 Morels is the St George's mushroom {Agaricus 
 gambosus), presumably so called because it makes its 
 first appearance about St George's day. 
 
 There is a legend accounting for the name, which 
 is current in Hungary, that it was a gift from St 
 George. Readers may please themselves which 
 account they choose to adopt. Some confusion has 
 also prevailed as to the scientific name which Dr 
 Badham gave as Agaricus prunulus, and some others 
 have called Agaricus Georgii, whereas the veritable 
 prunulus and also the true Georgii are different 
 species. In France it is called mouceron or mousseron 
 on account of its growing amongst moss, and from 
 this it has been stated that our name " mushroom," 
 applied generally to another species, has been 
 derived. 
 
 The St George's mushroom is a pasture-loving 
 species, and is not found in woods. In ordinary cir- 
 
58 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 cumstances the cap is about three inches in diameter, 
 but it will reach four or five, and Dr Badham states 
 that he has found it six inches across, and weighing 
 between four and five ounces. He adds that he col- 
 lected one spring at Keston, in Kent, from ten to 
 twelve pounds in a single ring, and in the one field 
 from twenty to twenty-five pounds. From this it will 
 be seen that it is a gregarious species, many speci- 
 mens being found growing in company, in the form of 
 rings, or parts of rings, in the same manner as the fairy- 
 ring champignon. In some parts a prejudice exists 
 amongst the farmers against them, on the supposi- 
 tion that they injure the grass crops, and for that 
 reason they are kicked over and destroyed. A better 
 plan would be to collect them in a basket, and carry 
 them home to cook ; but prejudice is blind. 
 
 In addition to its being found in fields and 
 pastures in spring, when agarics are rare, and its 
 gregarious habit, it has also a strong and peculiar 
 odour, which is rather oppressive if a large number 
 are taken into a room. The cap is thick in its flesh, 
 covered with a dry cuticle, soft to the touch, like a 
 delicate kid glove, smooth but often cracking when 
 old. In colour it is usually of a creamy whiteness, 
 inclined to become yellowish at the top, and not so 
 regular in form as the ordinary mushroom, but lobed, 
 and waved at the margin, which is turned in for a 
 long time, and wholly of a firm substance. When cut 
 through the flesh is often nearly an inch thick at the 
 
ST GEORGE S MUSHROOM. 59 
 
 centre. The stem is thick (nearly an inch) and short, 
 of the same colour as the cap, rather thicker at the 
 base, and often contorted, or irregular. The gills are 
 of a watery white, and very numerous, commonly 
 arched, reaching the stem, to which they are attached. 
 The spores also are white. It would be difficult to 
 confound this with any other species, especially when 
 it is remembered that all fungi are rare at the time of 
 its appearance, and if our description is read over 
 carefully, it would be difficult to mistake it at any 
 time, not forgetting the strong odour, its growing in 
 rings, and its white gills and spores. We have never 
 encountered anyone who disliked this mushroom 
 when tasted, but we have heard it objected to as 
 being rather heavy and indigestible for delicate 
 stomachs. Experience, however, has never enabled 
 us to support this charge, and we can only say with 
 Dr Badham, that " it is the most savoury fungus with 
 which we are acquainted." 
 
 There are two or three other agarics which have 
 many points in common with the foregoing, from a 
 gastronomic point of view, that we purpose including 
 them here, as the same modes of cooking are applic- 
 able to all. The first of these are the Blewits 
 (Agaricus personatus), which is a truly autumnal 
 species, sometimes collected as late as November, and 
 seldom appearing at all until October. It loves the 
 grass in open places, such as parks, but not woods 
 and forests. Sowerby has stated that in his time it 
 
60 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 was occasionally sold under the name of " Blewits ' 
 in Covent Garden Market, but we have never seen it 
 exposed for sale in this country. It is more regular 
 in the shape of its cap than the St George's mushroom, 
 and similar in size, from two to five or six inches, 
 smooth, but not viscid, with an oily appearance. In 
 colour it is most commonly of a dirty white, some- 
 times greyish, or with a tinge of violet, also thick in 
 the flesh, and firm, but it imbibes water readily, so 
 that it is liable to become sodden and dark in wet 
 weather. The edge is at first turned in, and looks 
 frosted, or minutely velvety, but this soon disappears. 
 The stem is from one to three inches long, and about 
 three quarters of an inch thick, rather swollen at the 
 base, and stained with lilac, which colour also pene- 
 trates into the flesh of the stem. The gills are 
 numerous, rounded behind, and scarcely attached to 
 the stem, dirty white, now and then tinged with 
 violet, but the spores are white. It has a strong 
 odour, but not so powerful as the St George's mush- 
 room, and is equally pleasant to the taste. This is 
 also a gregarious species, and is said to be fond of 
 growing in rings, but we have never recognised this 
 habit although several specimens will generally be 
 found growing in company. Altogether this fungus 
 seems to correspond, as a late species, to the St 
 George's, which is an early one, and they have several 
 points in common, but there is no suspicion of its 
 being the same species, indeed this could hardly be 
 
st George's mushroom. 6i 
 
 possible. The similarity extends even to the flavour 
 when cooked, although we retain a preference for the 
 former. The Blewits should not be collected for the 
 table when they are water-logged ; since they will 
 hardly give satisfaction in that condition, but when in 
 a good state, they are undoubtedly an excellent 
 esculent. 
 
 Another species which seems to have been con- 
 founded by earlier writers with " Blewits " under the 
 name of "Blue Caps" is a very common autumnal 
 species amongst dead leaves in woods. Perhaps for 
 this the name of " Bluecaps " might be appropriated 
 {Agaricus nudus). It is really a very fine and hand- 
 some species, gregarious like the others, but when 
 young of a light violet blue, becoming ruddy with 
 age. In books it is said to be two inches in diameter, 
 but we have seen twenty individuals growing to- 
 gether, not one of which was less than five or six 
 inches. The cap is at first convex, but soon flattened, 
 quite smooth, not viscid, and at last depressed, and 
 almost brick red. It has been called amethyst 
 colour, but there is much more blue in the tone than 
 in amethyst, and it has always a remarkably clean 
 appearance. The stem varies according to the size 
 of the cap, for in the large specimens alluded to it was 
 six or seven inches long, and more than an inch thick, 
 but more commonly it is half those dimensions. In 
 colour the stem is similar to the cap, but perhaps a 
 little paler, with a little white woolliness at the base. 
 
62 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 The gills are numerous, and either rounded behind or 
 running down the stem, at first of the same colour as 
 the cap, but becoming ruddy with age. The spores 
 are quite white. For the table we always collect 
 specimens which retain their violet blue colour, and 
 of these we have seen sufficient within an hour to fill 
 a bushel basket. It is, in some places, where there 
 are plenty of dead leaves on the ground, one of the 
 commonest autumnal species. In other places it 
 seems to be comparatively rare. Once recognized 
 and identified it cannot be confounded with any 
 other species, and we have breakfasted upon it daily 
 for a week, without surfeit or inconvenience. It has 
 but a very slight odour, and possesses a more delicate 
 flavour than either of the foregoing. 
 
 The St George mushroom has secured for itself in 
 all countries where it is known golden opinions. In 
 some instances this is probably due to the successful 
 intervention of the cook, since fungi, more than aught 
 else, depend much on the efficiency of the cook. If 
 the cooking of fungi has not yet been elevated to the 
 position of a high art, it deserves to be, for the same 
 fungus will please or displease with the merits of the 
 operator. Dr Badham declared this to be the most 
 savoury fungus with which he was acquainted, and 
 justly considered so over almost the whole continent 
 of Europe. Edwin Lees, who , was a pronounced 
 mycophagist, was "inclined to give it the highest 
 place as an agaric for the table. There is nothing 
 
st george's mushroom. 63 
 
 about its appearance to displease the most fastidious. 
 It has an amiable and clean look, grows in pastures 
 of fresh springing grass, and has an ambrosial smell 
 — an aroma different from and more pleasant than 
 the strong catsuppy odour of the common mushroom. 
 It has a delicate appearance when served up, and 
 an agreeable taste. Whoever has partaken of it once 
 wishes to do so again." The Rev. M. J. Berkeley 
 had always a good word in its favour. He says — 
 " it is one that a person cannot very well make any 
 mistake about. It sometimes attains a large size, is 
 excellent in flavour, and particularly wholesome." 
 To this might be added the testimony of Mr Worth- 
 ington Smith, himself an incorrigible fungus-eater, 
 who remarks that — " few species are more substantial 
 and delightful for the table. I look upon it with 
 unusual favour, as one of the rarest delicacies of the 
 vegetable kingdom." The late Dr Bull said of it, 
 that "when grown quickly after the rains of early 
 spring, and before attacked by grubs, it is certainly 
 an excellent agaric. It has a very delicate flavour, 
 and is very light and wholesome. When gathered in 
 dry weather it is more firm in texture, and not so 
 good in flavour." 
 
 After such testimonials, we need only refer to the 
 methods which have been specially recommended for 
 its preparation. Dr Badham considered the best 
 method to be "either to mince, or fricassee it with 
 any sort of meat, or in a vol-au-vent, the flavour of 
 
64 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 which it greatly improves ; or, simply prepared with 
 salt, pepper, and a small piece of bacon, lard, or 
 butter, to prevent burning, it constitutes of itself an 
 excellent dish." 
 
 The Woolhope Club receipt is to "place some 
 fresh made toast nicely divided, on a dish and put 
 the agarics upon it, with a small piece of butter on 
 each ; then pour on each a teaspoonful of milk or 
 cream, and add a single clove to the whole dish. 
 Place an inverted basin over the whole, bake for 
 twenty minutes, and serve without removing the 
 basin until it comes to the table, so as to preserve 
 the heat and the aroma, which, on lifting the cover, 
 will be diffused through the room." 
 
 This is also one of the species which dries readily 
 when divided into pieces, or sliced, and in this form 
 retains much of its excellence. A few pieces added 
 to soups, gravies, or made dishes gives to them a 
 delicious flavour. To prevent their becoming mouldy 
 when kept in close tins or bottles, they must be 
 stored in a perfectly dry place. For this, and all 
 other dried fungi, it is recommended not to exclude 
 them entirely from the air, as they would be in 
 bottles or canisters, but to store them in linen or 
 muslin bags, which allows any contained moisture to 
 escape, without producing mouldiness, or a musty 
 flavour. 
 
 The modes of cooking are the same in the case 
 of the blue caps {Tricholoma nudd) the Blewits 
 
st george's mushroom. 65 
 
 {Tricholoma personatd) and St George's mushroom 
 {Tricholoma gambosd). They may all be grilled or 
 fried in the same manner as the common mushroom, 
 but we do not think them so well suited for stewing. 
 Perhaps the most successful plan is to place a lump 
 of butter in the frying-pan with a sufficiency of gravy 
 or milk, and a little curry powder, fry for seven or 
 eight minutes, then throw in the sliced agarics, fry 
 gently for ten minutes, and serve up quickly with 
 sippets of toast. 
 
 It is also a good method to remove the stems and 
 divide the caps down the centre. Place the pieces in 
 a pie dish with a little pepper and salt, and a small 
 piece of butter on each half. Either tie a paper 
 close over the dish, or cover it closely by other means, 
 and bake gently for about half an hour. Serve in 
 the same dish, which should not be uncovered until 
 placed on the table. 
 
 A simpler method is to cut off the stems close, 
 sprinkle pepper and salt over them, and plac» them 
 in a frying-pan, gills upwards, in the fat after the 
 bacon has been fried, or in default of bacon to place 
 a piece of butter on each cap. Then fry them until 
 thoroughly done, when they will be soft all over, and 
 appetising in odour and taste. They may be served 
 with bacon, or on toast. 
 
66 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 IX.— WARTED CAPS. 
 
 There are a certain number of fungi of the mush- 
 room kind, which are distinguishable from all the 
 rest, by having raised spots, or warts, or sometimes 
 patches on the surface of the caps, and at the same 
 time a more or less distinct membrane sheathing the 
 base of the stem like a stocking. The explanation 
 of these appearances is found in the fact, that, in 
 the young state, whilst the fungus is a mere ball, and 
 the stem is undeveloped, the v whole is enclosed in a 
 close fitting outer membrane, so that it somewhat 
 resembles a small egg. As the stem grows, and 
 lengthens, the outer membrane is torn apart all 
 round, and the upper portion is carried up, adhering 
 to the cap, whilst the lower portion remains at the 
 base of the stem, as a sheath or volva, after the 
 manner of a boot or stocking. During subsequent 
 growth of the cap in all directions, and its expan- 
 sion, the remains of the outer membrane, which was 
 carried up, adhering closely to it — crack in all direc- 
 tions, and the fragments attached to the cap, become 
 like whitish patches, or warts, on the surface, in some 
 cases more divided than in others, sometimes very 
 closely adhering to the cap, and then small, at other 
 times loose, and larger, more irregular, and soon fall- 
 ing off. 
 
WARTED CAPS. 67 
 
 One of these " warted cap " mushrooms is very 
 common in the early, autumn, amongst grass, gener- 
 ally under trees. It is of a dullish lilac tinged with 
 pink, becoming redder with age {Agaricus rube- 
 scens), and the prominent warts are small, paler, and 
 very numerous, especially on the upper or central 
 portion of the cap, which is two, three, or four inches 
 in diameter. The redness on all parts of the fungus 
 is a dull brick red, and not a bright scarlet, or orange. 
 This is a special caution, as there is such a bright 
 coloured species, especially under birch trees, which 
 must be avoided. Returning to the species we were 
 describing, it has a thick stem, four or five inches long, 
 and an inch thick at the swollen base, but attenuated 
 upwards near the top is a broad, pendulous white 
 ring. The gills are white, broad, and do not touch 
 -the stem. Very soon the gills and whitish stem 
 show reddish stains, the bottom of the stem especially 
 being darker, and reddish. When cut longitudinally 
 down the stem, the bottom portion of the flesh • is 
 stained with red. The volva, or sheath at the base 
 adheres so closely as to be scarcely distinguishable, 
 except for a rough edge like an indistinct ring at the 
 base. The flesh of the cap is white, often with a 
 slight tinge of red, and thick. It is pleasant both in 
 taste and smell, but very soon the stem is perforated, 
 and eaten by larvae, as it becomes mature. They 
 are in their best condition before the cap is fully 
 expanded, and whilst it is" still hemispherical. 
 
68 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 This is a good species to serve as an illustration of 
 the origin of the ring, or frill, which surrounds the 
 upper part of the stem in some of the mushrooms. 
 Whilst the cap is still unopened, and represents about 
 two-thirds of a globe, the gills of the under surface 
 will be observed to be covered by a white membrane 
 which reaches from the stem, horizontally, to the 
 edge of the cap. In this stage, if an individual 
 specimen is collected and carried into a warm room, 
 the bottom of the stem placed in a vessel of water, in 
 the course of an hour or two the cap will open out, 
 so as to become flatter, and in doing so the edge 
 recedes from the stem, which causes the membrane 
 to tear away gradually from the edge of the cap, and 
 fall down, like a broad white frill, or ring, towards the 
 stem, the inner edge still remaining attached to the 
 stem. In this way the gills will become exposed. 
 So that the ring is a membrane, which at first covers 
 and protects the gills whilst young, afterwards falling 
 away at the outer edge, but remaining attached by 
 the inner edge to the stem, sometimes it is made up 
 of thin delicate threads, like cobweb, and at other 
 times it is absent or very small. 
 
 The true warted mushrooms have all of them a 
 large membranous ring (except in a small and 
 distinct group, in which the ring is absent). It is 
 well worth while taking the trouble to make the 
 acquaintance of the species described above, because 
 when once it is accurately identified, there never need 
 
WARTED CAPS. 69 
 
 be any fear of mistake, and it is a very common, safe, 
 and useful species. 
 
 We may allude here, incidentally, to another species 
 {Agaricus strobiliformis) which is unfortunately rare, 
 but equally edible, found on the borders of woods. 
 The cap when young is nearly spherical, but soon 
 expands, reaching a diameter of eight or nine inches. 
 The scales, or warts are large, and not unlike the 
 scales of a fir cone, brownish in the centre, with a 
 white woolly margin, closely adhering to the cap. 
 The stem is six or seven inches long and an inch and 
 a half thick, firm and solid, swollen at the base. The 
 ring is large and pendulous. The gills do riot reach 
 the stem, and are rounded behind. The whole fungus 
 is commonly whitish but sometimes pale grey, and 
 there are never any red stains, as in the previous 
 species. To prevent misapprehension it may be 
 added that the gills and spores are white. Hitherto 
 we have only known this species to occur in two or 
 three counties of England, and in those very rarely, 
 so that, large and excellent though it may be, the 
 finding of it must be regarded as a memorable event. 
 One who has eaten it says, " its undisputed esculent 
 qualities are of a high order, and it is to be regretted 
 that its comparative rarity must prevent its being so 
 Well known and appreciated as its merits deserve." 
 
 It is unnecessary to quote authorities for the excel- 
 lence and utility of the common warted mushroom, no 
 one disputes it now-a-days, at least among fungus 
 
70 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 eaters. Generally it has the reputation of Being an 
 excellent substitute for the ordinary mushroom, and 
 we know of some who prefer' it for its milder flavour. 
 It produces a very good pale ketchup, and being 
 found in most localities in abundance, is available for 
 that purpose, an advantage will be found in its com- 
 parative early appearance, since it may always be 
 looked for in July. Only young specimens should be 
 used, or those not attacked by insects. It is 
 shockingly liable to become maggoty. 
 
 All methods of cooking available for the mushroom 
 are applicable to this. There is no more delicate and 
 digestible mushroom dish for breakfast than the 
 " warted mushroom," fried with the gills upwards and 
 a piece of butter, with pepper and salt on each, served 
 on toast. It is better to rub off the warts from the 
 cap, as they do not peel easily, and, of course, discard 
 the stems. 
 
 There are no special directions for ketchup, as the 
 ordinary method in use for mushroom ketchup is 
 applicable to all species. There must be no dis- 
 appointment that the ketchup is not black. The 
 flavour must be regarded and not the colour. This 
 is a soft fleshy fungus and will not submit to be dried 
 satisfactorily for subsequent use, indeed it is very 
 difficult to dry it in the air at all without becoming 
 infested with larvae. We have been informed that the 
 young buttons will pickle well, but of this we have 
 no experience. 
 
WARTED CAPS. 7 1 
 
 Before closing this chapter we may advert to another 
 common fungus, which has a warted cap, and a 
 volvate, or booted, base to the stem but without a ring. 
 Its scientific name signifies " sheathed mushroom " 
 {Agaricus vaginatus). The cap is rounded above, 
 longer than hemispherical, from an inch and a half to 
 three inches across, sometimes four inches when 
 expanded, white, mouse-coloured, or brownish, with 
 fragments of the outer membrane loosely adhering to 
 the surface, but soon washed away. The margin is 
 thin, and marked with parallel depressed lines. This 
 is often a useful feature for its determination. The 
 stem is white and slender, gradually attenuated 
 upwards, about six or seven inches long, blunt at the 
 base, but not bulbous, and sheathed with a large, 
 loose ragged volva, or stocking. The gills are snowy 
 white, not reaching to the stem, and the spores are 
 also white. 
 
 Careful attention to some of these features in 
 particular, will obviate mistakes. The spots, or 
 irregular fragments, adhering to the cap, and the 
 loose ragged stocking at the base of the stem, which 
 latter is not bulbous, together with the parallel lines 
 on the edge of the cap, should be sufficient distinc- 
 tions to recognise this species anywhere. The cap is 
 comparatively thin in its flesh, and it is rather delicate 
 and fragile. The white variety always has the pre- 
 ference for cooking but the mouse-coloured forms are 
 most common. It is found on the ground in woods, 
 
J 2 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 during the autumn, but it is rather solitary in its 
 habits. The only method we have adopted for 
 cooking is that recommended for some other delicate 
 species, after adding pepper, salt and butter, to place 
 them in a plate or dish, cover with an inverted basin 
 and place in an oven for ten minutes. Serve on 
 sippets of toast. 
 
 X.— DUSKY CAPS. 
 
 Most people have favourites in food, as well as in 
 everything else, and we have our favourite mush- 
 rooms, which we always collect in preference to any 
 others. One of these is the parasol mushroom, but later 
 than that, and when all the parasols are closed for the 
 winter, we direct our special attention to the dusky 
 caps, or cloudy mushroom {Agaricus nebularis) which 
 flourishes to the end of November, and we haye eaten 
 it as late as the 12th of December, at which period 
 edible fungi are rare. It is neither a small nor a 
 solitary species, since in some years, in a favoured 
 spot, we have seen sufficient within an hour to fill a 
 wheelbarrow. Twenty or thirty-five specimens 
 growing amongst the same heap of dead leaves, 
 nearly covered and sheltered from the frost 
 
 In this species the cap is from two and a half to six 
 inches in diameter, convex at first, but soon flattened, 
 
DUSKY CAPS. 73 
 
 but not depressed. The margin is at first strongly 
 curved inwards, but at length is flattened out, and, 
 when old, with a tendency to bend outwards ; it is quite 
 smooth, a little streaky, and viscid, so that leaves will 
 adhere to it. Its usual colour is a cloudy grey, 
 darker at the centre, and pale at the edge ; sometimes 
 it is a creamy or dirty white, with a greyish centre, 
 but this is chiefly in late grown specimens. There is 
 often a kind of glaucous bloom on the caps, like the 
 " bloom " of a plum. The flesh is very thick, especi- 
 ally about the centre, and gradually attenuated 
 towards the margin, white and unchangeable. The 
 stem is from two to four inches long, and rarely six, 
 from half an inch to upwards of an inch thick, nearly 
 equal, or a little thickened below, adhering at the 
 base by a floccose white mycelium, dirty white, and 
 longitudinally striate, spongy within but seldom 
 becoming hollow. The gills are rather narrow for the 
 size of the cap, and attenuated behind, so as to run a 
 little way down, the stem, they are numerous and close, 
 and creamy white. The spores are small and white. 
 The odour is rather strong and fungoid ; Dr Badham 
 says it is like curd cheese, whilst others content them- 
 selves with describing it as strong. When raw the 
 flavour is mild. As already suggested, its favourite 
 place of growth is amongst dead leaves. In large 
 gardens it is the custom to sweep up the fallen leaves 
 in the autumn, and deposit them in a heap, in a quiet 
 corner to rot. On such heaps we have invariably 
 
74 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 found this mushroom in October or November. In 
 woods, where the leaves drift into a ditch or hollow, 
 the " dusky caps " will be found, often partly obscured 
 by the leaves. If the sterns are cut off close to the 
 gills when gathered a goodly number of the flat caps 
 can be stowed away in a small compass, which is an 
 advantage, since, when found, it is so gregarious in 
 habit that a plentiful supply may be reckoned upon. 
 
 This is known and eaten upon the Continent, but, 
 in some countries, not so well as it deserves, and we 
 have observed in one volume, which is usually trust- 
 worthy, it is stated that this species is suspicious, 
 although eaten in England. Such an observation 
 never could have been made by any person who had 
 a practical knowledge of its qualities. In Italy it is 
 not in general request, and according to all accounts 
 it must be rather rare in that country, although 
 common enough in Northern Europe. Other writers 
 fear that it is rather indigestible, whilst Dr Badham 
 says, " the flesh is perhaps lighter of digestion than 
 that of any other." 
 
 This fungus has a flavour which at once suggests 
 the common mushroom, but milder, which to some 
 tastes would seem preferable. In many cases it is 
 not easy to compare the flavour, since it is so dis- 
 similar to the "mushroom," and such species are 
 often disappointing to inexperienced fungus-eaters 
 since they know of but one flavour, and to this they 
 expect all others to conform ; it is only after they 
 
DUSKY CAPS. 75 
 
 have learnt that nearly every kind of edible fungus 
 has its own' characteristic flavour, that they, re- 
 consider and often reverse their verdict. 
 
 In cooking the '"dusky caps" it is sufficient to 
 wipe them, since they do not grow in contact with the 
 soil, and hence are not liable to be , gritty. The 
 cuticle of the cap is not separable easily, and need 
 not be denuded. When the stems are rejected the 
 caps may be put in a stewpan with butter, salt and 
 pepper, or a spoonful of cream ; or they may be fried 
 with the bacon for breakfast. Any treatment suitable 
 for the common mushroom will be applicable, but it 
 is a tender species and requires but a short time 
 in cooking. Dr Badham says it may be delicately 
 fried with bread crumbs, or stewed in white sauce. 
 Some writers have indulged in a little sly sarcasm 
 at the recommendation to use gravy, or stock, or 
 such like additions in cooking fungi, either, as they 
 observe, to conceal the flavour, where it is not quite 
 agreeable, or to impart a flavour where there is none. 
 Those critics had forgotten that mushrooms, of no 
 kind, are required to be crisp, and that the liquid 
 added to them is intended to furnish moisture, and 
 keep them tender ; but should it happen to be an 
 affair of conscience, it may soothe them to learn that 
 they may substitute water, or milk, or cream, for 
 gravy or sauce, and they might venture on bacon fat, 
 beef dripping, or salad oil, if these are more to their 
 taste than butter. 
 
76 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 We are induced to add to this chapter some features 
 by which two or three other good species may be re- 
 cognized, which are akin to " dusky caps." The large 
 funnel mushrooms, with a cap so deeply sunk in the 
 centre that it resembles a funnel, are too rare to re- 
 quire more than a passing reference. The "giant 
 mushroom " nearly a foot in diameter {Agaricus 
 giganteus) and the "large funnel" which is not so 
 broad {Agaricus maximus) but nearly a foot in height, 
 are excellent food, but they occur so seldom as to 
 amount almost to phenomena. One large funnel 
 shaped mushroom (Agaricus geotropus) is rather more 
 common, but perhaps local, and deserves mention. 
 During last autumn (1890) when fungi of all kinds have 
 been exceptionally scarce, we saw ten or twelve fine 
 specimens brought in from a day's excursion. The cap 
 is creamy white, or pale tan colour, four or five inches 
 broad, deeply depressed, like a funnel, smooth, soft 
 and fleshy. Stem six inches long, so that with the 
 rising cap the whole fungus would attain to nine 
 inches ; this solid stem tapering upwards from a base 
 an inch-and-a-half thick, and more or less fibrous. 
 The gills numerous and crowded, running down the 
 stem, white at first, and then almost of the colour 
 of the cap. The flesh is thick, nearly an inch in 
 large specimens, sweet and nutty to the taste, and a 
 slight mealy odour. It grows in woods or on their 
 borders, several specimens together, or forming part 
 of a ring. This is equal to the dusky caps as an 
 
THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON. 77 
 
 esculent, but hardly the same in flavour. No one 
 who has once partaken of it would refuse to do so 
 again. It may be prepared for the table in the same 
 manner as the foregoing species. 
 
 There is a smaller mushroom (Agaricus infundibuli- 
 formis) almost a miniature of geotropus, common in 
 woods everywhere, about two inches broad and high, 
 which is most delicate and delicious served on 
 toast. 
 
 XL— THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON. 
 
 It would be a fallacy to suppose because this is 
 called the " Fairy Ring Champignon " that it is the 
 only fungus which delights in fairy rings, whereas 
 there are several distinct species which possess this 
 proclivity. Still, it is this {Marasmius oreades) and 
 no other, to which the name of Fairy ring mushroom 
 is exclusively applied. It is assumed to be this 
 which is dedicated to — 
 
 " The nimble elves 
 That do by moonshine green sour ringlets make 
 Whereof the ewe bites not ; whose pastime 'tis 
 To make these midnight mushrooms.'' 
 
 Familiar though they are to those whose home is 
 in the country, many of those who dwell in cities 
 have but a vague notion about fairy rings. For their 
 
78 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 edification we may quote a very succinct description — 
 " Fairy rings consist, generally speaking, of circles, or 
 parts of circles of grass, of a darker colour, and more 
 luxuriant growth than the surrounding herbage, the 
 outer edge of the circle being well defined, while the 
 colour and stature of the grass diminish and fade so 
 gradually inwards, that it is difficult to determine the 
 exact limit of the ring towards the centre. Very 
 commonly there is to be observed an outer and con- 
 tiguous ring, much narrower than the inner, and of 
 which the grass is either short and weak, or faded 
 and brown, remarkably contrasting with the vivid 
 green of the inner ring : on this brown ring, or just 
 upon its margin, fungi are found. The duration of 
 fairy rings varies much : some disappear in a few 
 weeks, others endure for years. A severe winter 
 will obliterate the external traces of a ring, and 
 prevent the usual crop of fungi appearing upon it at 
 the proper season ; but such rirtgs often reappear, and 
 are thus considered to have been suddenly formed. 
 During the whole course of their appearance the 
 rings increase in diameter, spreading outwards from 
 the centre, the faded brown circle becoming rank 
 with green and copious grass, and a fresh outer circle 
 being formed of dead or feeble blades of grass. The 
 rate of increase is various, some enlarging their dia- 
 meter a few inches in the year, others as many feet. 
 The circles frequently meet in the course of : this 
 gradual enlargement. In such cases the point of 
 
THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON. 79 
 
 contact becomes obliterated ; and when this contact 
 occurs between the margin of several such rings, the 
 obliteration of the parts which meet leaves a variety 
 of segments "of circles upon the turf, which, pursuing 
 an independent course, and some increasing more 
 rapidly than others, present eventually an unaccount- 
 able irregularity, and, as it were, patchwork of greener 
 and paler, stronger and weaker, portions of turf. 
 When the turf is. cut through such a ring at two 
 contiguous points, so that a breadth is taken up from 
 the inner rank green, through the faded breadth, to 
 the outer ordinary state, the soil of the faded ring is 
 always found drier and of a paler colour than the 
 adjoining parts, and abundantly impregnated with 
 mycelium.' Indeed, a careful examination will show 
 that the faded and impoverished condition of the turf 
 of the outer ring is due to the close investment of the 
 roots by the mycelium of the fungi which occupy the 
 ring. The dimensions of the rings vary from 3 feet 
 to 300 feet in diameter; they are at times very 
 irregular in form, an accident arising either from the 
 nature of the soil, and the obstacles which they meet 
 with in their circumferential expansion, or from more 
 than one ring coalescing, and producing an outline of 
 undulating curves." 
 
 But what of the cause and origin of these rings ? 
 Some curious theories have from time to time been 
 advanced, and subsided into oblivion. Amongst the 
 least probable is one which attributed the agency to 
 
80 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 moles, which loosened the soil and caused a more 
 fertile growth. Others have attributed them to 
 lightning, and others again to subterranean vapours ; 
 but the most feasible theory is that which is set forth 
 by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, in the following words : 
 " These rings are sometimes of very ancient date, and 
 attain enormous dimensions, so as to be distinctly 
 visible on a hill side from a considerable distance. 
 It is believed that they originate from a single fungus 
 whose growth renders the soil immediately beneath 
 unfit for its reproduction. The spawn, however 
 spreads all around, and in the second year produces 
 a crop whose spawn spreads again, the soil behind 
 forbidding its return in that direction. Thus the 
 circle is continually increased, and extends indefinitely 
 till some cause intervenes to destroy it. If the spawn 
 did not spread on all sides at first, an arc of a circle 
 only is produced. The manure arising from the dead 
 fungi of the former years makes the grass peculiarly 
 vigorous round, so as to render the circle visible 
 even when there is no external appearance of the 
 fungus, and the contrast is often the stronger from 
 that behind being killed by the old spawn. This 
 mode of growth is far more common than is sup- 
 posed, and may be observed constantly in our woods 
 where the spawn can spread only in the soil, or 
 amongst the leaves and decaying fragments which 
 cover it." * 
 
 * " Outlines of British Fungology," p. 41. 
 
THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON. 8 I 
 
 The fungus which is commonly known as the " fairy 
 ring. champignon" {Marasmius oreades) is a small, 
 dry looking mushroom, seldom much more than one 
 inch in diameter, and of a warm buff colour, paler 
 when dry. The cap is convex, with a slight depres- 
 sion round the broad central umbo or boss, quite 
 smooth, without any lines or scales ; as it becomes old 
 it is rather flattened. The stem is of equal thickness 
 throughout, whitish, from the size of a straw to that 
 of a clay-pipe stem. The gills are broad, and dis- 
 tant from each other, quite white, or creamy white, 
 or with the slightest tinge of yellow, reaching the 
 stem. The substance is tough and elastic, not brittle, 
 and it dries very readily, never melting. After having 
 been dried, if placed in water it will reassume its 
 former size and shape. This peculiar dry substance 
 and power of reviving is the feature whereby a 
 Marasmius may be distinguished from an agaric. It 
 would be folly to seek this species in woods, as it 
 grows in the open, in pastures, lawns, &c, and the 
 species found in woods, which resemble it somewhat 
 in appearance, are not good eating. We have known 
 persons to confound dark brown, and other dark 
 coloured species, with the champignon, simply on 
 account of their gregarious habit. This is absurd, 
 because the true species is always light coloured, even 
 when soaked with moisture, and the gills are nearly 
 white, with white spores. The features which dis- 
 tinguish this from similar species are so permanent 
 
 F 
 
82 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 and well marked that we cannot comprehend how 
 mistakes so egregious could have been made. Above 
 all things, let it be certain that the spores and gills 
 are white ; that the cap is perfectly dry, and not in 
 the least viscid; that the gills are distant apart, so 
 that you may look down between them ; and that 
 the whole substance is tough, elastic, and flexible as 
 compared with the agarics. It is possible to carry 
 them home loose in the coat pocket without breaking 
 them, especially in dry weather, and they should be 
 sought after in summer or early autumn. In Sep- 
 tember, certainly in October, none will be found. 
 
 Without repeating all the encomiums that have 
 been passed on the " fairy ring champignon," we will 
 be content with one, which may be accepted as a 
 type of the rest. " It should be stewed with pepper 
 and butter, and then it makes an agreeable condi- 
 ment. It is also to be recommended for pickling. 
 It might be used as an ingredient in soups all through 
 the year, as its tough nature allows it to be strung up 
 in quantities like onions. This is a very delicious 
 agaric beyond question ; and the abundance in which 
 it everywhere grows makes it a very valuable one. 
 The only drawback is its tendency to toughness, 
 which is, however, easily to be surmounted by proper 
 cooking." 
 
 The juice of this mushroom, obtained in the same 
 manner as ketchup is made, is strongly recommended, 
 especially when fresh. The quantity obtainable is 
 
THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON. 83 
 
 small, as this is a dry fungus, but the flavour is de- 
 licate, although not by any means strong, and unlike 
 ketchup. 
 
 Champignon powder is a good form for winter 
 use. Put the champignons in a stewpan with a little 
 mace and a few cloves, and a sprinkling of white 
 pepper. Simmer and shake constantly to prevent 
 burning, until any liquor that may exude is dried up 
 again. Dry thoroughly in a warm oven until they 
 will easily powder. Put the dried fungi, or the 
 powder, into wide-mouthed bottles, and store in a dry 
 place. 
 
 Pickled champignons are prepared as follows. 
 Collect fresh buttons of the fairy ring champignon 
 and use them at once. Cut off the stems quite close 
 and throw each one, as you do it, into a basin of 
 water in which a spoonful of salt has been dissolved. 
 Drain them from it quickly afterwards, and lay them 
 on a soft cloth to dry. For each quart of buttons 
 thus preparefl take nearly a quart of pale white wine 
 vinegar, and add to it a heaped teaspoonful of salt, 
 half an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of 
 ginger bruised, two large blades of mace, and a 
 fourth of a salt spoon of cayenne pepper, tied in a 
 small piece of muslin. When this pickle boils throw 
 in the champignons and boil them in it over a clear 
 fire, moderately fast, from six to nine minutes. When 
 tolerably tender put them into warm, wide-mouthed 
 bottles, and divide the spice equally amongst them ; 
 
84 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 when perfectly cold cork well, or tie skins and paper 
 over them. Store in a dry place, and keep out the 
 frost. 
 
 For ordinary use the fresh champignons may be 
 cut in small pieces, and seasoned. In this state it 
 may be added to stews, hashes, or fried meats, but it 
 should be added only a few minutes before serving. 
 
 XII.— MILKY MUSHROOMS. 
 
 A LITTLE experience in collecting fungi will soon 
 convince the student that there are important differ- 
 ences, such as he had scarcely expected to find, and 
 some of them so striking as to cause him to marvel 
 that they should for so long have escaped his obser- 
 vation. One of these is the fact that some of the 
 individuals with the external, and superficial, features 
 of agarics, with cap, stem, and gills, should contain 
 within them a profusion of white, or coloured milk, 
 which oozes out in drops whenever the fungus is 
 wounded. From this circumstance the section, or, 
 as botanists term it, the genus, has a special name, 
 and is called Lactarius, or milky mushrooms. In 
 some instances the milk is sweet and pleasant to the 
 taste, in others it is hot and peppery, causing the lips 
 to tingle. All are found growing on the ground, 
 mostly in woods, and a few are recommended as 
 
THE MILKY MUSHROOM. 85 
 
 articles of food. One species which is esteemed on 
 the continent, where it is more common than with 
 us, attains a considerable size, although not the 
 largest of the milky mushrooms. It is of an orange 
 brown colour [Lactarius volemus), with a cap about 
 four inches broad, depressed in the centre, smooth 
 and rather polished, thick in the flesh, which is readily 
 seen by cutting through the cap, and then the sweet 
 white milk will exude, and fall in drops to the 
 ground. The stem is more than three inches long, 
 sometimes four or five, and nearly an inch thick, a 
 little tapering towards the base, rather paler than the 
 centre of the cap, which is darkest, and rather a 
 spongy flesh. The gills are numerous, reaching the 
 stem, and of an ochre colour at first, becoming darker, 
 especially when touched. The spores are white. 
 Like its relatives in this section, it grows on the 
 ground in woods, but is too rare to be of much 
 interest as an esculent. In some seasons we have 
 seen two or three individuals, but more often none 
 at all. 
 
 Much more common, and smaller, is the sweet 
 milk mushroom (Lactarius subdulcis) ; indeed this is 
 quite a common species everywhere, but it is not of 
 much account as an esculent, especially as it makes 
 its appearance at a time when better species are to 
 be had. Nearly all the description we have given 
 above of the larger species will apply to this, except 
 that it is smaller and more of a dark cinnamon in 
 
86 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 colour, with a reddish tinge, and the gills are darker, 
 and rather rufous. The milk is white and mild to 
 the taste. There is an opaque dryness in the appear- 
 ance of this fungus when it is not overcharged with 
 moisture by the wetness of the season, which will dis- 
 tinguish it also from small specimens of Lactarius 
 volemus. There is often found growing in company 
 with it, in the same sort of situations in woods, a 
 smaller species, of much brighter colour, but always 
 small {Lactarius mitissimus). It is a very mild 
 species, as its name indicates, and preferable to 
 subdulcis when cooked. This little milk mushroom 
 is often about an inch across the pileus, occasionally 
 double that size, and of an orange colour, with a faint 
 mixture of brown, but it has no zones, or concentric 
 bands of a darker colour ; the stem is about as long 
 as the diameter of the cap, and paler, as are also the 
 numerous gills. There is hardly any very appreci- 
 able odour in these three species, and all have a 
 plentiful supply of sweet white milk, which does not 
 change colour on exposure to the air. It sometimes 
 seems a little difficult to draw the line of separation 
 between these latter two species, for small bright 
 coloured individuals of Lactarius subdulcis are very 
 like Lactarius mitissimus. 
 
 After all, the most celebrated is the Orange milk 
 mushroom (Lactarius deliciosus). Even the name 
 declares it to be one of the most delicious of fungi. 
 Thus much is assumed by the name, although there 
 
THE MILKY MUSHROOM. 87 
 
 may be heretics who contend for precedence on be- 
 half of two or three other kinds of fungi, for which 
 names do not profess so much. Taking for granted 
 that this is a delicious mushroom, it must always be 
 sought after under fir trees. It will be waste of time 
 to hunt for it anywhere else. Fortunately, it grows 
 in company, and when one has been found it is 
 probable that twenty will follow. September is the 
 most favourable month, and the first week in October 
 is usually too late, except for two or three belated 
 individuals. The cap is three or four inches in dia- 
 meter, of a dull reddish orange colour, dimpled or 
 depressed a little in the centre, with the edge turned 
 in at first, and for a long time afterwards. The cap 
 is zoned with concentric bands of brighter colour, but 
 is liable to be discoloured, because, wherever touched, 
 or kicked, or bruised, it becomes of a dull green. 
 The stem is always short, so that the cap grows very 
 near to the ground ; sometimes scarcely more than 
 an inch long, and a little attenuated downwards. 
 The gills are not very close together, and arched so 
 that they run a little way down the stem, a little paler 
 than the cap. The most noteworthy feature is that 
 the milk is orange at first, and turns green by ex- 
 posure to the air. It is this which causes the decol- 
 ouration of the cap when bruised. As there is no 
 other fungus which has an orange milk changing to 
 green, there is no danger of confusion. When cut 
 through the cap and stem its identity will at once be 
 
88 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 established by the oozing of the orange milk, and 
 even whilst held in the hand that orange will gradu- 
 ally become of a dirty green. 
 
 The whole substance of this mushroom is firm and 
 compact to the touch, cutting like ah apple or pear, 
 but it has not an attractive appearance on account of 
 the livid green stains. 
 
 We cannot close these observations on the milky 
 mushrooms without one or two remarks upon the 
 strictures which some have expressed. In one book 
 before us it is stated that " The milk fungi are 
 suspicious as a group ; this is the only one we can at 
 all recommend." Against this sweeping condemna- 
 tion we have already described three other species, 
 and we might add three more which are named in 
 our list, but we will rest content with a hint that it 
 is not advisable to give a dog a bad name without 
 sufficient cause. 
 
 There is a large white milk mushroom, common in 
 woods, with a cap six or eight inches in diameter 
 (Lactarius piperatus), and rather a peppery white 
 milk. In this country it has been condemned by all 
 authors, one after the other, as poisonous, or at the 
 best very suspicious. And yet this same fungus, 
 which is ready of determination, is eaten on the Con- 
 tinent, and Dr Curtis wrote to the Rev. M. J. 
 Berkeley that he had constantly eaten it in the 
 United States, and considered it excellent. We are 
 not prepared to recommend it without first eat- 
 
THE MILKY MUSHROOM. 89 
 
 ing it ourselves, but the evidence is very strong that 
 this suspicion is one of our insular prejudices. 
 
 Another of the milk mushrooms which is less 
 common [Lactarius controversus) equals the last in 
 size, is also white, but becomes stained, very often, 
 with dark red; and has flesh coloured gills. This, 
 again, has always been held suspicious, but although 
 the white milk is acrid or peppery, this is dispersed 
 by cooking, and it may be eaten without incon- 
 venience. All we desire, at this time, to infer from 
 this is that the number of poisonous or disagreeable 
 fungi is less than has been suspected. There area 
 few undoubtedly dangerous, but their number will 
 bear no comparison with the number of those that 
 are innocuous. We have always cautioned persons 
 against making experiments, and do so still, but it is 
 possible to cherish unreasonable suspicions. 
 
 There is a diversity of opinion as to the estimation 
 in which the orange milk mushroom should be held 
 as an esculent. Some will not hesitate to endorse the 
 opinion of Sir J. E. Smith, that "it is the most 
 delicious mushroom known ; " whilst others will 
 contend that it has been much overrated. Berkeley 
 writes of it thus — " Dr Badham stayed with me once, 
 and we had all sorts of things cooked. At last we 
 got Lactarius deliciosus, and my cook said she was 
 sure if we ate it we should be poisoned, and she 
 absolutely refused to cook it. It is one which grows 
 in very great abundance in fir woods occasionally ; 
 
90 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 and I can positively state myself, having partaken of 
 it, that it is most excellent." - Mr Edwin Lees, who 
 was really an epicure, gives it a very good character. 
 
 "The rich gravy it produces is its chief characteristic, 
 and hence it commends itself to make a rich gravy 
 sauce, or as an ingredient in soups. It requires 
 delicate cooking, for though fleshy it becomes tough if 
 kept on the fire till all the juice is exuded. Baking 
 is perhaps the best process for it to pass through. It 
 should be dressed when fresh and pulpy." Served at 
 the annual Woolhope dinners, it has always given 
 satisfaction. The pie-dish method of cooking is said 
 to suit it best, as it is firm and crisp in substance. Only 
 sound specimens should be used. These should be 
 reduced by cutting to a 'uniform bulk. Place the 
 pieces in a pie-dish, with a little pepper and salt, and 
 a small piece of butter on every slice. Cover the dish, 
 or tie it over with paper, and bake gently for three 
 quarters of an hour. Serve in the same hot dish, and 
 do not uncover till it is placed on the table. 
 
 This Lactarius may also be cut in slices and fried 
 with butter, or bacon, or gravy, and served hot with 
 sippets of toast. 
 
 Some enthusiasts strongly recommend Deliciosus 
 pie, which is made in the following' manner. Pepper 
 and salt the slices of fungus, and place them in layers, 
 with thin slices of fresh bacon, until a small pie-dish 
 is full ; cover with a crust of pastry or mashed 
 potatoes, and bake gently for three quarters of an 
 
THE HEDGEHOG MUSHROOM. 9 I 
 
 hour. If potatoes are used as a crust, it should be 
 browned nicely before a quick fire. 
 
 The same mode of procedure in cooking would 
 doubtless serve with other species of milk agaric, 
 although we have only tried the frying. If only two or 
 three specimens of Lactarius are available for the 
 purpose, we have found it answer very well to cut off 
 the stems, and place the caps, gills upwards, on a 
 plate, put a piece of butter and a little salt and pepper 
 on each, cover closely with an inverted basin, and 
 place them in an oven for at least half an hour. 
 
 XIII.— THE HEDGEHOG MUSHROOM. 
 
 THERE is no safe way of passing through a work of 
 this kind without some allusion to technical distinc- 
 tions, or as we might state it, without some recogni- 
 tion of the correlation of scientific facts. Although 
 we are desirous of keeping the technicalities of science 
 as much in the background as possible, yet sound 
 definitions should underlie even popular treatises. 
 No further apology therefore is needed for pointing 
 out at once the essential differences which separate 
 fungi of the type now to be described from the 
 agarics and Boleti. In the case of the agarics it 
 has been intimated that the first essential is the 
 possession of parallel plates, or gills, on the under- 
 
92 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 surface of the cap, which constitute the reproductive 
 element. In the Boleti the gills are no longer 
 present, but are replaced by tubes which serve the 
 same purpose. And now, with the Hydnei or spine 
 bearing tribe, we have the gills or tubes alike absent, 
 but their place is supplied by projecting spines or 
 teeth. 
 
 A good illustration will be found in the common 
 Hedgehog Mushroom (Hydnum repanduni), which 
 may serve first for a short botanical lesson, and 
 afterwards as a dish for the breakfast table. This 
 fungus is sufficiently common in woods in the autumn 
 to be found by anyone who seeks it. The cap re- 
 sembles somewhat an ordinary mushroom, but is 
 more irregular in shape, seldom round, and of a warm 
 cream colour, not unlike the top of a sponge cake. 
 It is about three or four inches across, seldom even, 
 but with irregular knobs or protuberances, and never 
 shining or sticky. Owing to the shortness of the 
 stem the cap is always close to the ground. If we 
 gather one of these, and turn it over, it will be seen 
 that the under surface is covered with closely packed 
 spines, of the same colour as the surface of the cap. 
 
 These spines occupy the place, and serve the 
 purpose of gills. This is the scientific distinction 
 between the agarics and the hydnums, and the sum 
 total of our botanical demonstration. In our common 
 hedgehog, mushroom the stem is short and thick, 
 often deformed and distorted. Not unusually two 
 
THE HEDGEHOG MUSHROOM. 93 
 
 individuals will be found either with caps or stems 
 grown together, so that they are not symmetrical. 
 The spines also clothe the upper part of the stem 
 where it spreads into the cap. The taste of the fresh 
 fungus is rather warm and peppery, so much so that 
 thin slices may be added to a sandwich, being placed 
 on the top of the meat in place of mustard, but hav- 
 ing more "of the flavour of horseradish. Even when 
 cooked there still remains a little pungency, but not 
 more than is pleasant. A basket may soon be filled 
 with this mushroom in the season, for it is thick and 
 fleshy, and if one specimen is discovered there will 
 probably be a dozen more close by. Being of a dry 
 texture it may be sliced and dried for use in the 
 winter, but in this case it must always be steeped in 
 warm water before it is used, or it will be tough. 
 
 There is another . species of nearly the same size 
 found in mountain pine woods {Hydnum imbricatmn), 
 but it is very rare in England, and only occasional in 
 Scotland. The cap is brown and scaly, the spines 
 are greyish white. This does not appear to be an 
 uncommon species in the north of Europe, but with 
 us the cream coloured species takes its place, whilst 
 this in some parts of northern Europe, is rather 
 scarce. According to all accounts it is in no way 
 superior as an esculent to our common species. 
 Other kinds with a central stem are found occasion- 
 ally, but rarely in the south, and these have a tough 
 leathery substance so as to be out of the question as 
 
94 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 esculents. It is a little remarkable that we have no 
 knowledge of a single species of the fleshy kind 
 which has the reputation of being poisonous. 
 
 Finally, there are three species which grow upon 
 trees, which have all been found, at one time or other, 
 in this country, but their appearances are almost 
 historical events, so that they . have come to be 
 regarded as great rarities, too valuable for con- 
 sumption. 
 
 The cauliflower spiny cap {Hydnum coralloides) has 
 somewhat the appearance of a cauliflower when young, 
 forming a large dense mass, with a very much 
 branched stem, and the ultimate branches thin, bearing 
 on one side only, so that no caps are produced. 
 Looked upon as it grows it appears only as a mass of 
 spines. 
 
 Another is the "tree hedgehog" {Hydnum erinaceum) 
 which forms a tough fleshy mass, six or eight inches 
 long, and half as broad. The outer surface is covered 
 with very long, drooping spines. It is not unlike a 
 hedgehog in size and form, but white at first, and 
 afterwards yellowish, and has been found generally on 
 oak or beech trunks. 
 
 The third species, " Medusa's head " {Hydnum 
 caput medusae), has somewhat the form of the last and 
 is at first snowy white, becoming greyish. The spines 
 are also very long and slender. However, it is 
 unnecessary to give any lengthened description of 
 these rarities, since it is hardly probable that they 
 
THE HEDGEHOG MUSHROOM. 95 
 
 will gladden the eyes of our readers, and, if so, all have 
 the reputation of being edible. 
 
 There is only one final member of this group 
 which, though small, is much more common. This 
 is the "jelly hedgehog" {Tremellodon gelatinosum), 
 found on old fir trunks. It is almost of the consist- 
 ence of jelly, of a brownish colour, with paler spines. 
 The peculiarity in this as an edible fungus, on the 
 authority of the French, is that it should be eaten raw, 
 with wine, in the same manner as a jelly, and will 
 serve the same purpose. It is the only fungus of 
 which we have ever heard that is capable of such an 
 application, and even of this we must confess to being 
 without experience. 
 
 The conflicting opinions which have been expressed 
 on the merits of the hedgehog mushroom have doubt- 
 less depended more than in any other species upon 
 the cook. Berkeley says truly of it that it is a most 
 excellent fungus, but requires a little caution in 
 preparation for the table. It should be previously 
 steeped in hot water and well drained in a cloth ; in 
 which case there is certainly not a more excellent 
 fungus than it is. Undoubtedly it is a dense and dry 
 fungus, so that in whatever way it may be cooked it 
 should be done slowly, at a low temperature, until it 
 is tender, and with plenty of stock or white sauce to 
 supply its deficiency in moisture. There is a little 
 pungency, not at all disagreeable, but very evident in 
 all results, which is one of its characteristics. Thin 
 
96 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 slices of the raw fungus when inserted in a sandwich 
 in place of mustard is a very agreeable change, not 
 uncommonly resorted to by fungus hunters " on foray 
 days." 
 
 A French method is to slice the fungi and steep 
 them for twenty minutes in warm water ; after being 
 well drained they are placed in a pan with butter, 
 pepper, salt, and parsley, with beef gravy or white 
 sauce, and allowed to simmer for an hour. Everyone 
 recommends stewing as the best method for Hydnum, 
 and one writer says that when cut up in pieces about 
 the size of a bean, and stewed in white sauce, it will 
 almost pass as oyster sauce. 
 
 A very fine kind of dark coloured hedgehog mush- 
 room, with a cap often six inches in diameter, is highly 
 esteemed in Japan, either fresh or dried, in which 
 latter case they are often dried whole in a current of 
 air, and preserved for winter use. 
 
 XIV.— SWEETBREAD MUSHROOMS. 
 
 It has always been an article of faith with us that 
 the group of mushrooms which possess pink or 
 salmon coloured spores is the most suspicious of all 
 the sections of agarics ; that some of them are un- 
 doubtedly poisonous and others cause considerable 
 inconvenience when eaten by mistake. Relying upon 
 
PL. 7. 
 
 1W 
 
SWEETBREAD MUSHROOMS. 97 
 
 this faith, it has always been felt to be incumbent 
 upon us to utter a note of warning whenever the 
 subject would justify it. Even now, with maturer 
 experience, we are not disposed to withdraw our 
 suspicions, or relax our warnings. It is not that the 
 deleterious properties reside in the colour of the 
 spores, which we do not assume, but the presence of 
 other elements in the fungi themselves, exhibited in 
 some instances by rapid putrefaction, and in many 
 by a strong nitrous odour, in which the danger 
 lies. The colour of the spores alone is not a 
 safe basis for any conclusion, since some of those 
 with white spores are amongst the most virulent ; and 
 yet we do not condemn white-spored agarics in a 
 mass. In this instance we simply take advantage of 
 one feature as a simple means of indicating a 
 suspicious group, instead of resorting to scientific 
 names indicating special genera. Experience has 
 shown that certain groups appear to be, for some 
 occult reason, more generally injurious than others, 
 with but a few solitary exceptions, and we take 
 advantage of any recognisable feature which will 
 indicate that group ; and in this case the most 
 available one is the colour of the spores. 
 
 Notwithstanding this general character of the pink 
 spored agarics, we have in two or three well defined 
 species remarkable exceptions to the rule, and it is 
 to these that the present chapter is devoted. This 
 only proves that the colour of the spores is not the 
 
 G 
 
98 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 disturbing element, but it does not militate against 
 the conclusion that, as a general rule, pink spored 
 species should not be experimented upon without 
 positive knowledge of their properties. 
 
 Some people think that the fungi we designate as 
 two species are in reality only two forms of the same 
 species, but that is a question which it would be out 
 of place to discuss here. Both are supposed. to have 
 a similar resemblance to sweetbreads when prepared 
 for the table, and hence the name. The most deli- 
 cate of the two is the orcella, or true vegetable sweet- 
 bread (Agaricus orcella), which has a thin, irregular 
 cap two or three inches in diameter, of an ivory white- 
 ness, or sometimes with a greyish tinge, especially at 
 the centre. There is a peculiar satiny lustre, which is 
 more pronounced when the weather is dry. The cap 
 soon becomes depressed and concave, with the 
 margin lobed or undulated, so as often to present a 
 very irregular and unsymmetrical- appearance. In 
 moist weather the surface becomes a little sticky, so 
 as to adhere to the fingers, but it is always soft and 
 smooth. The stem is short and white, decreasing 
 downwards, solid within, sometimes placed in the 
 centre, and sometimes towards one side of the cap. 
 The gills are numerous and closely crowded, running 
 down the stem, and attenuated towards both ends. At 
 first they are nearly white, then they become of a pale 
 greyish pink, and when old pass into a peculiar pale 
 lightish brown. For a long time the gills retain their 
 
SWEETBREAD MUSHROOMS. 99 
 
 dirty white colour, and it has all the appearance of a 
 white spored species. When cut in section the flesh 
 is white and unchangeable. The odour is described 
 as that of fresh meal, but some persons fancy a 
 resemblance, or suggestion, of cucumber ; at any rate 
 it is always distinct and recognisable. It grows 
 amongst grass in woods, or their borders, from June 
 to September, with a preference for open places. 
 
 The other has been called for distinction the " plum 
 mushroom " (Agaricus prunulus), and when compared 
 together will be found to be the more regular shaped 
 and fleshy of the two. The cap under ordinary 
 circumstances is from two to three inches broad, but 
 it will attain as much as five inches, at first convex, 
 and afterwards flattened, but ultimately depressed in 
 the centre ; the margin is often wavy and irregular 
 when mature. It is white, like the other, with a tinge 
 of grey, with a sort of bloom, or frostiness on the 
 surface, resembling the "bloom" on a plum. The 
 stem is rather short, from an inch and more long, and 
 half an inch in thickness, white, and a little woolly at 
 the base. The gills, in all essentials, are the same as 
 in the other species, of the same peculiar colour, for 
 a long time whitish, and running down the stem. 
 The flesh also is solid, white, and unchangeable. The 
 odour of new meal is evidently somewhat stronger 
 and more overpowering than in the former species. 
 It grows also amongst grass in woods, preferring 
 shady places more than its companion, and is more 
 
IOO BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 gregarious in its habits, a number of individuals 
 being often found together, occasionally in the form 
 of a ring. 
 
 To avoid possible error in reference, it may be 
 intimated that the species mentioned by Dr Badham 
 under the name of Agaricus prunulus is not the 
 present species, but the St George's mushroom. In 
 that work the two are confounded, or united, which 
 we have described above, and he says of them 
 collectively — " It is a very delicate mushroom." An 
 enthusiastic lady, writing of the species, says — "No 
 mushroom is more in harmony with the idea of fairy 
 rings and merry woodland sprites than this. Fre- 
 quenting the precincts of the forests of long ago, it 
 flourishes in the very localities where imagination 
 might suppose the tiny people would linger, and what 
 so suitable for their midnight fetes as the alabaster 
 tables covered with silky white damask, which the 
 caps of the moucerons present ? " Only that this is not 
 the ''mouceron," which again is the St George's 
 mushroom, another case of confusion of names. 
 
 We are not concerned much with the differences 
 between Orcella and Prunulus, and whether they are 
 forms of one species, or whether they are two distinct 
 species. It is sufficient that they are both very good to 
 eat. One writer who considered them distinct, says 
 that " Orcella is a smaller and more delicate fungus 
 than Prunulus. It is thinner and less fleshy, more 
 undulated at the margin, and has a lighter and more 
 
SWEETBREAD MUSHROOMS. IOI 
 
 agreeable odour. Orcella grows in more open glades 
 than Prunulus, it is usually much whiter in colour, 
 sometimes in high situations, white, and glazed as egg 
 shell or pottery. Orcella grows more solitarily than 
 Prunulus, in light scattered groups, showing an 
 inclination for the neighbourhood of oak trees, and 
 where it does grow it may be found from year to year 
 in the same place, but seldom more than two or three 
 in a spot. In 1869, when Orcella was pretty plentiful, 
 Prunulus was not to be found in the situations where 
 it usually grows abundantly. Prunulus is the reverse 
 of all this. It prefers more shady places, is larger, 
 more fleshy, and with a strong odour, which is rather 
 heavy and overpowering. It grows in greater 
 quantities together, and not unfrequently in crowded 
 rings from four to six feet in diameter. As edible 
 fungi they should certainly be kept distinct. Orcella is 
 light and pleasant in odour, and excellent in flavour ; 
 it is so tender and delicate as to be termed, not 
 inaptly, ' vegetable sweetbread.' Prunulus, on the 
 other hand, though always good, is to many people 
 too strong in odour, and coarser in taste." 
 
 This will dispose of the question of identity as far 
 as our purpose is concerned, and might dispense with 
 any separate reference to them in cooking, save that 
 we are reminded by the same writer quoted above 
 that Orcella, being usually found in small quantities, is 
 better when broiled and served on toast. Prunulus, 
 growing in greater abundance will serve either for 
 
102 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 broiling or stewing, or both. Orcella should be eaten 
 the same day that it is gathered, either stewed, broiled, 
 or fried with bread and egg crumbs like cutlets. 
 Smith says that, however prepared, it is most excellent, 
 the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour, and 
 whether broiled or stewed, or however prepared, it is 
 a most delicious morsel. In all this we are quite 
 prepared to agree with him, without distinction of 
 Orcella or Prunulus. Were we to classify edible 
 fungi according to their gastronomic merits, these 
 would find a place in the first class. 
 
 XV.— THE CHANTARELLE. 
 
 The most unstinted praise has been lavished on the 
 chantarelle (Cantkarellus cibarius) from a remote 
 period, and even in our own day, there are some who 
 regard it as unapproachable for excellence. It has 
 one great advantage, that it is attractive in colour 
 and appearance, is by no means uncommon, easily 
 recognized, and cannot well be confounded with any 
 other species, good, bad, or indifferent. Persons with- 
 out the slightest knowledge of fungi may gather it 
 and eat it with impunity, but it must be cooked care- 
 fully and properly, or they may be doomed to dis- 
 appointment. Battarra, an old writer on fungi, made 
 the remark which has been repeated scores of times, 
 
THE CHANTARELLE. IO3 
 
 that, if properly prepared, the chantarelle would 
 arrest the pangs of death. 
 
 This is a summer fungus, and only a few straggling 
 specimens are to be seen in the great fungus season of 
 September and October, unless the weather is mild. 
 It is found in woods, and not in fields and open 
 pastures ; in some parts of the New Forest it is far 
 more plentiful than we have observed it in any other 
 part of England. At times we could have gathered 
 a bushel in an hour or two, but in 1888, 1889, and 
 1890 all kinds of fungi have been comparatively 
 scarce. 
 
 The chantarelle is of a beautiful golden yellow 
 colour in all parts, it is a peculiar yellow, resembling 
 the dark yolk of an egg. In size it is about two inches 
 in breadth and height, and somewhat inversely 
 conical in shape, broadest at the top and gradually 
 decreasing downwards. The top of the cap is flat, 
 and soon depressed, with a thick, lobed, and undu- 
 lated margin, so that it is always very irregular and 
 often contorted. The flesh of the cap is thick and 
 diminishes gradually into the stem, which in this 
 instance is seldom removed for cooking, as it is of 
 a like texture to the cap. The gills are remarkable, 
 for they are very shallow and thick at the edge, like 
 veins, running down the stem, almost of the same 
 colour as the cap ; these veins are also forked, and 
 smaller veins run across transversely from gill to gill. 
 This thick veining, instead of true gill plates, dis- 
 
104 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 tinguishes the chantarelle from agarics. The entire 
 substance of the fungus is dry and opaque, and it has 
 a peculiar odour, which some have characterised as 
 that of ripe apricots and others as of plums. When 
 raw the taste is rather warm. The flesh is whitish, 
 tinged with the same yellow. It will be seen from 
 this description that the chantarelle is a unique and 
 very remarkable fungus. 
 
 Berkeley says that " The chantarelle is occasionally 
 served up at public dinners at the principal hotels in 
 London, on state occasions, where every effort is 
 made to secure the rarest and most costly dainties ; " 
 and Dr Badham writes that " Having collected a 
 quantity at Tunbridge Wells one summer, and given 
 them to the cook at the Calverley Hotel to dress, he 
 learnt from the waiter that, they were not novelties to 
 him ; that, in fact, he had been in the habit of dress- 
 ing them for years, on state occasions, at the Free- 
 mason's Tavern." Nevertheless, we confess to never 
 having seen them exposed for sale in London, although 
 constantly on the Continent, and never to have recog- 
 nized them at table, at any dinners, but those memor- 
 able ones of the Woolhope Club at Hereford. 
 
 The chantarelle is eaten regularly in France, Ger- 
 many, Austria, and Italy, where it is exposed in the 
 markets for sale, but it does not seem to be a great 
 favourite with the poorer classes. 
 
 The most approved method of cooking is to pick 
 and wash the chantarelles, and then allow them to 
 
THE CHANTARELLE. IO5 
 
 dry ; they should then be thrown into boiling water, 
 which helps to soften the rather rigid flesh. After- 
 wards they may be stewed in fresh butter, or olive 
 oil, with chopped tarragon or parsley, pepper, salt, 
 and a little lemon peel : when they are cooked they 
 should be allowed to simmer over a slow fire for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, and moistened from time 
 to time with beef gravy or cream ; when about to be 
 served the stew is thickened with yolk of egg. Be- 
 fore stewing we prefer them sliced, as this ensures 
 more thorough and uniform cooking. 
 
 Another plan, which some will prefer, is simply 
 frying the cut chantarelles in butter or oil, with 
 pepper and salt, adding a few bread crumbs, or pour- 
 ing them when done over sippets of toast. 
 
 The chantarelles may also be cut up small, or 
 minced, and stewed with meat, or gently stewed by 
 themselves, and added to the meat afterwards. Be- 
 ing of a dry nature it must always be remembered 
 that rapid cooking will spoil them by rendering them 
 tough. 
 
 If collected in larger quantities than may be 
 required for present use, they may be strung up and 
 dried in the air, but before being used they should 
 always be soaked for a time in water to soften them. 
 They are a useful addition to soups and stews in the 
 winter. In all cases an advantage will be found to 
 accrue from slicing the chantarelles and allowing 
 them to soak all night in milk before stewing or fry- 
 
106 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 ing them. Weather and locality of growth have also 
 their influences, for in very dry seasons, and when 
 growing in dry spots, the specimens will be small, 
 with an additional tendency to toughness when 
 cooked. No fungus requires more careful prepara- 
 tion than this. 
 
 It may be well to refer in this place to a common 
 fungus, which is known as the " false chantarelle," 
 even more common than the true chantarelle, but 
 smaller, of much more slender growth, and not so 
 brightly coloured (Cantharellus aurantiacus). It 
 grows amongst grass in open places, and hence rarely 
 to be seen in company with the chantarelle. The 
 cap is seldom more than one and a half inches broad, 
 sometimes one inch, of a pale ochre, but not egg 
 yellow, thin and flexible,, with gills very close 
 together and numerous, darker than the cap, reddish 
 orange, with a slender pale stem. No one would 
 possibly confound this with the chantarelle after 
 having seen the true species. It has had the reputa- 
 tion of being poisonous, but of this we entertain some 
 doubt, and fancy it is only a tradition : nevertheless, 
 it is not edible, and may cause considerable unpleas- 
 antness if eaten. The gills have more the appear- 
 ance of true gills, rather than veins, on account of 
 their thinness. In some localities a variety is found 
 with very pale, almost white gills, still more unlike 
 the veritable chantarelle. No person with his wits 
 about him could confound the two species, and 
 
THE EDIBLE BOLETUS. 107 
 
 yet it may be as well to have alluded to it, in order' 
 to guard the novice against experimenting with 
 species, which, to him, are doubtful, or unknown. We 
 have for ourselves been addicted to eating a vast 
 number of different kinds of fungi for forty years, 
 and never suffered a moment's inconvenience from 
 the habit, but it must be remembered that we have 
 eaten nothing which we did not know, or which had 
 not a favourable reputation. 
 
 XVI— THE EDIBLE BOLETUS. 
 
 HOWEVER delightful it might be theoretically to be 
 able to read a book of this kind without fear of en- 
 countering technical names, it is practically impos- 
 sible to avoid them altogether, except by inventing 
 combinations equally as bad and equally as strange, 
 without the compensation of being accurate. Organ- 
 isms such as fungi which have excited no interest in the 
 popular mind, have not acquired local names, and as all 
 have been commonly regarded as dangerous and un- 
 canny, no one has taken the trouble to examine them 
 or attempt to discover whether there are any features 
 whereby one kind can be discriminated from another. 
 Yet even the rural school urchin, who is well up in the 
 distinctions between a green-finch and a linnet, or a 
 buttercup and a daisy, could just as readily dis- 
 
108 BRITISH -EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 criminate between the commoner kinds of the larger 
 fungi, if there were- only vernacular names for them 
 which could be readily remembered. It would be 
 worse than useless to invent a host of fancy names, 
 and associate them in books with the scientific names, 
 or even with prolix descriptions of the objects them- 
 selves, since but few would see or care to read the 
 books in which the new names are explained. One 
 remarkable instance of an effort of this kind is present 
 to our memory, but it only resulted in failure. A 
 better course to adopt, probably, would be to associate 
 characteristic names with good coloured portraits of 
 the objects, but, even in this case, the diffusion of 
 useful knowledge would be exceedingly limited ; only 
 a few of the most notable could be selected for 
 illustration, and some time would elapse before 
 practical results could be hoped for. 
 
 Everyone who has been desirous of extending a 
 knowledge of fungi has felt this difficulty, and some- 
 times it has found expression. The writers of books 
 on this subject, as well as the readers, have been em- 
 barrassed, and the happy consummation remains as 
 distant as ever. In this chapter we have to encounter 
 one of these stumbling blocks, because there is no 
 real popular designation for the kind of fungi which 
 botanical people call Boleti, as distinguished from 
 those other fungi which they denominate Agarics, 
 such as the ordinary mushroom represents. It is an 
 undoubted fact that on the continent of Europe, 
 
THE EDIBLE BOLETUS. IO9 
 
 where more varied kinds of fungi are extensively, 
 eaten than with us, there are a vast number of 
 popular names, but these have probably followed 
 upon the recognition of their alimentary value and 
 not preceded it. The one broad distinction between 
 these two kinds of fungi can be grasped by a very 
 infantile mind, and is not liable to error. The 
 agarics (which include " mushrooms " and " toad- 
 stools " of the vernacular) have plates or gills on the 
 under side of the cap by which they are surmounted, 
 and these plates extend, or radiate from the stem in 
 the centre to the margin of the cap. They may vary 
 exceedingly in number, in colour, in their proximity to 
 each other, and even in thickness, but radiating gills 
 of some kind are always present. In the Boleti, on 
 the contrary, there are no gill' plates on the under 
 surface of the cap, but their place is occupied by a 
 level surface which is covered with small punctures 
 or perforations, looking as if it had been carefully 
 and regularly pricked with a pin. These pores serve 
 the same purpose in the economy of the plant as the 
 flat surface of the gills in the agarics, but the differ- 
 ence in structure is common to all Boleti, in the same 
 manner as gill plates are common to the Agarics. 
 We might term these latter "gill-bearing," and the 
 former " pore-bearing " fungi. 
 
 If these observations are carefully perused and 
 comprehended, the difference between agarics and 
 boleti will no longer remain a mystery. Cut a 
 
IIO BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 Boletus, such as we have indicated, through . the cap 
 and downwards through the stem, dividing the whole 
 fungus into two equal halves, and still further light 
 will be thrown upon its structure. The porous under 
 surface will usually be different in colour from the 
 flesh of the cap, and of a considerable thickness, the 
 pores placed regularly side by side, like small tubes 
 glued together, and their outer extremity open. The 
 whole inner surface of these tubes, or pores, produce 
 the minute seeds, or spores as they should be called, 
 of the Boletus. With this preliminary outline of their 
 characteristic features, we proceed to note some of 
 the species which should be sought after for cooking. 
 We commence with the one which has long been 
 called the "edible boletus'' {Boletus edulis) known 
 and eaten all over the Continent, as well, and as 
 freely as the " mushroom " is with us. Every little 
 provision shop in Germany, or Austria, has " ceps " 
 for sale all the year round. Under this name you 
 will be supplied with thin slices of Boletus, dried in 
 the air or sun, at a small price per pound, their 
 general use being an addition to soups or made 
 dishes. But, to return to the living fungus, which is 
 common in all parts of the British Isles, during early 
 autumn, the cap is about the size and colour of a 
 penny bun ; a nice warm brown quite at the top, and 
 paler towards the edge. The most common diameter 
 will be three to four inches, but it is not unusual for 
 them to reach as much as seven or eight inches 
 
THE EDIBLE BOLETUS. 1 1 1 
 
 across, with a corresponding increase in thickness. 
 The pore surface is a light greenish yellow, paler 
 when young, sunk to a channel round the stem. It 
 often happens that the stem is much deformed, 
 always thick and solid, not less than an inch thick 
 at the top, and twice as thick at the base, commonly 
 five or six inches in length. In colour it approaches 
 a warm ochre, and the upper part of the stem is 
 covered with a minute reticulation or network of fine 
 veins, which are but little darker than the ground 
 colour of the stem, and sometimes so nearly of the 
 same colour as to be scarcely distinguishable. There 
 is a little clamminess about the top of the cap in wet 
 weather, but this is not perceptible when the weather 
 is fine and dry. There is no distinctive odour, and 
 the taste of the flesh, especially when young, is sweet 
 and nutty. When cut through, or broken, the flesh 
 does not immediately, or at any time, become of a 
 deep blue. It will be borne in mind that all the 
 Boleti which change colour to a deep blue when cut 
 or bruised are not only suspicious, but some are 
 strongly poisonous. The same remark may be 
 made of Boleti as of other fungi, that young speci- 
 mens are sweeter and more tender than when fully 
 matured, and that they cannot, be too fresh when 
 eaten. " High game " is not applicable to fungi. 
 The edible boletus grows mostly in woods, and is not 
 readily confounded with any other species ; certainly 
 not when it has once been satisfactorily determined. 
 
I I 2 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 In whatever way it is prepared for the table it is 
 preferable to discard the stems, and cut away the 
 porous portion which occupies the under surface of 
 the cap. This reduces the bulk to carry home, and, 
 when found, it is usually in company, and there is no 
 need to fear a short supply at the proper season. 
 Some persons take objection to this fungus as food, 
 on the ground that it is rather mucilaginous. We 
 venture to think that it is not sufficiently so to 
 depreciate it in general estimation, provided the 
 porous portion is excluded. Sliced and dried it may 
 be preserved through the winter to form an ingredient 
 in soups and stews. 
 
 Dried boleti are made into soup in some parts of 
 Europe. The dried "ceps" are soaked in warm 
 water until they become softened ; they are then 
 stewed with the usual condiments, and thickened 
 with toasted bread. It is quite permissible to add 
 gravy, or any other seasonable adjunct. 
 
 The simplest method consists in removing the stem 
 and pores, and cutting up the fleshy cap into small 
 pieces, which are laid in a dish with butter, pepper, 
 and salt, covered close, and baked for an hour. 
 
 A more elaborate method is given by Persoon, 
 who says that they may be cooked with white sauce, 
 with or without chicken, in fricassee, broiled or 
 baked with butter, salad oil, pepper, salt, chopped 
 herbs, and bread crumbs ; to which some add ham, 
 or a little anchovy They make excellent fritters. 
 
THE EDIBLE BOLETUS. I I 3 
 
 Some roast them with onions (basting with butter), 
 but as the onions take longer to cook than the 
 boletus, the latter must not be added until the former 
 have begun to soften. 
 
 Dr Badham says that the best method of cooking 
 this fungus must be left to the taste of the individual 
 interested. In every way it is good. " Its tender and 
 juicy flesh, its delicate and sapid flavour, render it 
 equally acceptable to the plain and to the accom- 
 plished cook. It imparts a relish alike to the homely 
 hash and the dainty ragout, and may be truly said 
 to improve every dish of which it is a constituent." 
 Whilst the Rev. M. J. Berkeley wrote that " Though 
 much neglected in this country, it appears to be a 
 most valuable article of food. It resembles much in 
 taste the common mushroom, and is quite as delicate : 
 it abounds in seasons when these are not to be 
 found." 
 
 A novel method of cooking this fungus has been 
 recommended by Mr Edwin Lees, but we have never 
 tested it. He says," It should not be disguised with any 
 sauce beyond lemon juice and powdered lump sugar ; 
 in fact, as part of a fungus dinner it should come last 
 with the puddings and sweets. As a fricassee or 
 sweet omelette it is excellent, and when thus delicately 
 cooked has a close resemblance to custard pudding." 
 Another plan of preparation is thus described — 
 Remove the stems and pores from the fungi, and 
 divide the remainder into half inch slices. Take six 
 
 H 
 
I 14 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 or eight ounces of lean uncooked ham, cut into small 
 squares, and put them in a large stewpan, adding a 
 large wineglass of the best salad oil, and fry for a few 
 minutes, until the ham takes a pale yellowish colour ; 
 then add the pieces of boletus, and fry for another 
 five minutes ; remove from the fire, and add a tea- 
 spoonful of common salt, a salt spoonful of crushed 
 (not ground) black pepper, one large sweet Spanish 
 red pepper cut in pieces (but if not to be procured 
 substitute a fresh green chili) a little nutmeg, and a 
 teaspoonful of chopped parsley ; add a large wineglass- 
 ful of sherry. Then place it on the fire, the lid of 
 the stewpan closely shut down, and let it stew gently 
 for three quarters of an hour; stir in the juice of half 
 a lemon, and serve up hot. 
 
 XVII.— OTHER BOLETI. 
 
 JUST at the time of year when the edible boletus is 
 going off, and becoming scarce, another species nearly 
 as large, and some think equally good, is making its 
 appearance. Of course the two are often found 
 together, but the plentiful season for one is in advance 
 of that of the other. As soon as the supply of the 
 " edible " slackens, the "rough legged " {Boletus scaber) 
 comes in to take its place. This boletus, which is so 
 common in woods in October, is not quite so broad 
 
OTHER BOLETI. 1 1 5 
 
 in the cap as the other. It reaches from three to 
 seven inches in diameter, but is most usual about 
 four inches. The cap is very convex, almost hemi- 
 spherical at first, but in expanding becoming less so, 
 viscid and smooth, usually dull brown, but also 
 greyish, and a common form is brick red, or terra 
 cotta. Sometimes the cap is minutely downy, with 
 the down collected in little tufts, but often so slightly 
 velvety as not to be observable without a pocket lens. 
 The flesh is very thick and white in young speci- 
 mens, but usually turning reddish grey when cut or 
 broken, if fully mature. The tubes are very long, 
 becoming short next the stem, and the under surface 
 is of a dirty white, often smoky. There is a deep 
 channel round the top of the stem, caused by the 
 shortening of the tubes. The stem is six inches long, 
 thicker at the base and attenuated gradually up- 
 wards, dirty white, and rough throughout its length, 
 with blackish dot like scales, sometimes arranged in 
 lines. This roughness of the stem is peculiarly 
 characteristic. It will be observed that the stem is 
 invariably thinner above than in the edible boletus 
 and more attenuated. It is not unusual for the stem 
 to be much thickened and distorted at the base, but 
 always more or less rough. There is no species with 
 which it can be confounded, unless it be one which in 
 this country we call versipellis, and that is equally 
 good-eating, and may, after all, be nothing more than 
 a variety. The flesh is firmer and less mucilaginous 
 
Il6 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 than the edible boletus, hence it is preferred by some 
 people. 
 
 There is a larger, but, unfortunately, rare species 
 which is earlier in appearance than either of those 
 we have described. The summer boletus {Boletus 
 cestivalis) reaches sometimes a diameter of ten inches, 
 and the cap varies from pale tan colour to grey ; it is 
 silky, and often covered with a frosty bloom. As it 
 becomes old the surface cracks into angular or 
 irregular patches. The under surface is whitish, and 
 the thick flesh does not change colour when cut. 
 Special caution should be taken not to attempt 
 cooking any species the flesh of which changes to 
 blue when cut. Some of the worst species become of 
 a deep indigo blue immediately on being cut or 
 broken. The stem in this species is two inches thick; 
 moderately long, and a little tapering upwards, of a 
 dull whitish colour, and even. It is mostly found in 
 pastures, under trees, sometimes as early as May, but 
 most commonly in June or July. Mrs Hussey says 
 .that this is the most delicious of all the boleti, and 
 Dr Bull was of the same opinion. Perhaps one of the 
 reasons why it has not been found more often is the 
 early period of its appearance, before fungus eaters as 
 a rule think of going out in search of spoil. 
 
 There is a species which is found occasionally on 
 woodsides later in the year, which has the reputation 
 of being esculent {Boletus impolitus). It often attains 
 a large size, and resembles the above in form, and in 
 
OTHER BOLETI. I 1 7 
 
 some other features, but the under surface of the cap 
 is yellowish, and the flesh turns faintly blue when cut. 
 It is this latter feature which precludes our recom- 
 mending it, as it is better to have no exception to the 
 rule of discarding all species which turn blue when 
 cut. This is one of the rarer species, and therefore 
 would be no material accession to our list of edible 
 species. In view of the possibility of error, it is better 
 to remain on the safe side. 
 
 Amongst small species the one which has given us 
 the greatest satisfaction has been the " granular 
 boletus" {Boletus granulatus). It has been seldom 
 recommended, and yet we prefer it to the edible 
 boletus, or indeed any other that we have tried. It 
 is one 1 of the group which has a glutinous, sticky cap, 
 and grows on the ground under fir trees. The 
 colour is that peculiar warm, pinkish yellow, almost 
 indescribable, which some call gilvous, and which we 
 have likened to the surface of a sponge cake. A great 
 number of specimens will always be found growing 
 together, and the cap is seldom much over two inches 
 broad, at first convex, and then flattened with a little 
 convexity ; it is covered with a thick slime, which 
 makes the cap appear of a darker colour, until it 
 disappears, leaving only a little stickiness behind. 
 The flesh is white, with a slight yellowish tinge, and 
 rather firm. The pores on the under surface are 
 whitish at first, and then lemon coloured, with the 
 edges moist and granular, as if powdered with sugar. 
 
Il8 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 The stem is one or two inches long, and about half an 
 inch thick, yellowish, the upper part granulated with 
 little points, without a collar or ring, but often 
 sprinkled with little drops as if of exuded moisture. 
 The tubes should be removed before cooking. 
 
 A bright yellow species {Boletus elegans), also found 
 under fir trees, is reputed to be good eating. The cap 
 is convex, golden yellow, very viscid, from two to 
 three inches in diameter, the under surface is of a 
 sulphury yellow, and the mouth of the pores angular, 
 running a little way down the stem. The stem is 
 usually cylindrical, almost equal, four inches long, and 
 half an inch thick, pale yellow at first, then reddish, 
 with a pendulous collar or ring in the upper portion, 
 above the ring punctate with little dots. The flesh is 
 of a pale yellow, and rather firm. Although this 
 species is common enough, we have never tried its 
 edible qualities, having been sufficiently satisfied' with 
 the granular boletus. 
 
 Some of our friends have commended the "bay 
 boletus" {Boletus badius), although we have always 
 suspected it to be only second rate. It delights most 
 in pine woods, and the cap is convex, which it main- 
 tains, about three. or four inches in diameter, soft and 
 sticky in wet weather, but rather shining when dry, of 
 a tawny bay colour, darker when wet and then deep 
 bay ; pores rather large and angular, of a dingy 
 yellowish white at first, and at length greenish. The 
 stem is nearly equal throughout, erect, and four or 
 
OTHER BOLETI. I 1 9 
 
 more inches long, three quarters of an inch thick, 
 paler than the cap, apparently frosted with brown. 
 When cut the flesh is dirty white, but it has a tendency 
 here and there to become blue. For this reason, if 
 for no other, we repeat the caution to beginners not to 
 eat this or any other species which turns blue, unless 
 it has been identified and recommended by some 
 competent person. For ourselves we should not 
 hesitate to eat the " bay boletus," but then we should 
 first satisfy ourselves that it was that species, and no 
 other, previous to the experiment. 
 
 Boleti are certainly fond of growing under fir trees, 
 for there is another rather common species found in 
 such situations, which, if not enticing in appearance, 
 has been commended. The dingy boletus {Boletus 
 bovinus), or as the latin name implies, " oxen " boletus 
 grows in companies, with a cap about two inches 
 broad, smooth and viscid, almost slimy, reddish grey, 
 dull yellow, or deep buff, paler at the margin, which is 
 whitish and woolly, stem two or three inches high, and 
 one half to three quarters of an inch thick, of the same 
 colour as the cap, sometimes attenuated below, and 
 streaked with watery lines. Flesh tinged with the 
 general colour, but unchangeable. Pores angular, 
 very shallow, and compound, dirty yellow, becoming 
 rusty when old. It has a strong odour resembling 
 that of the fairy-ring champignon. As an edible 
 species it has been compared with the granular 
 boletus. 
 
120 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 The chestnut boletus {Boletus castaneus) is dis- 
 tinguished from all the other species we have named 
 by its white, afterwards yellowish spores. It is not 
 common in woods, but is a neat, clean-looking 
 species. The cap is about three inches in diameter, 
 depressed when old, and then shallow concave, of a 
 dark rufous tan colour and velvety ; the flesh is thick, 
 coloured beneath the cuticle like the cap, but not 
 changing colour, the stem is variable in length, and 
 almost equal, of a cinnamon colour, without a ring. 
 The pores on the under side of the cap are white, 
 then dirty yellow, free from the stem. There are but 
 scanty references to this as an edible species, and we 
 have not met with any one but ourselves in this 
 country who has cooked and eaten it. Still we give 
 the preference to Boletus granulatus. 
 
 There are other kinds which have been suggested 
 or recommended, but we have given sufficient, and 
 those omitted are not equal to those inserted. Mr 
 Worthington Smith writes — " Before I properly knew 
 Boletus edulis, I ate all sorts of boleti in mistake for 
 it, notably Boletus chrysenteron." This latter species 
 we should not have included under any circumstances, 
 since some report it as suspicious, and others as 
 " nasty." 
 
VEGETABLE BEEF STEAK. I 2 I 
 
 XVIIL— VEGETABLE BEEF STEAK. 
 
 The only successful manner of justifying this rather 
 extraordinary title would be a practical demonstra- 
 tion, which we must leave our readers to do for them- 
 selves, if we can only induce them to make the ex- 
 periment. It is not a name of our own, but one 
 which is tolerably familiar to fungus eaters. Another 
 is " ox tongue," or oak tongue, or tongue of chestnut, 
 from its resemblance, when young, both in form and 
 colour to a tongue. In this country it is usually 
 found on old oaks, but in Italy it is found also on the 
 chestnut. The popular names by which this fungus 
 is known on the Continent stand in evidence that it 
 is recognised by the people generally as something in 
 which they have an interest, that it is a popular 
 object, for only popular objects get for themselves 
 popular names. In spite of our insular prejudices, 
 even the " vegetable beef steak " is gradually be- 
 coming known, and persons with no general know- 
 ledge of fungi have learnt to know and appreciate 
 this comparatively new article of food. There is 
 quite sufficient individuality about this fungus for it 
 to become well known, and readily recognised, with- 
 out the most rudimentary knowledge of fungi, as 
 readily as a beetroot is known without a knowledge 
 of botany. , 
 
122 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 The first appearance of growth is a small reddish 
 knob on the tree upon which it is to flourish, like a 
 strawberry, and this gradually grows and enlarges 
 until it becomes like an ox tongue, or part of a 
 bullock's liver. It projects from the tree to which it 
 is attached, without a stem, and although variable in 
 shape is often semicircular, six, eight, or ten inches 
 across, and two or three inches thick behind, gradu- 
 ally thinner towards the margin. The upper surface 
 is liver coloured, at first rather rough but soon be- 
 coming smooth, the under surface is flesh coloured, 
 growing darker with age. If the under surface is 
 carefully examined, it will seem to be punctured all 
 over with little pinholes, and these are the mouths of 
 the tubes, which are closely packed, side by side, like 
 the tubes of a boletus, only that they separate from 
 each other readily. If cut in any direction the flesh 
 presents a mottled appearance somewhat like beet- 
 root, and as juicy. The whole upper surface exudes 
 a kind of sticky moisture, so that it is rather clammy 
 to the touch. The odour which it possesses is sug- 
 gestive of wine, and its taste distinctly acid but not 
 unpleasant. Specimens vary considerably in size, 
 but one of two or three pounds weight is not un- 
 common. Dr Badham records that he once found 
 one which measured nearly five feet round, and 
 weighed upwards of eight pounds, whilst the Rev. M. 
 J. Berkeley is the authority for one which weighed 
 nearly thirty pounds. 
 
VEGETABLE BEEF STEAK. 123 
 
 In the case of agarics it is understood that young 
 specimens, or at least before fully matured, are the 
 most delicate and best for the table. This order is 
 reversed with the beef steak fungus, which is best 
 when it is fully ripe or matured. The young fungus, 
 growing upon oak, appears to obtain too much tannin 
 from the tree, so that it is bitter or astringent, and by 
 no means attractive, but when quite mature all 
 astringency has vanished, and the fungus is in its 
 prime. So long as decay has not commenced this 
 sort of beef steak, like game, should be rather high. 
 It is an excellent provision for the benefit of fungus 
 eaters of every degree, that it is very rare to find a 
 vegetable beef steak maggotty. We have gathered 
 specimens too numerous to mention, and cannot 
 remember a single instance in which they were so 
 attacked. Lovers of Fistulina Itepatica are recom- 
 mended always to note, and note down, a tree where- 
 on it is found, because the probabilities are strongly 
 in favour of its occurring annually on that same tree, 
 and in the same spot, for many consecutive years. 
 This is not supposition but the result of many a 
 fortunate experience. 
 
 The Fistulina is an excellent illustration of the 
 mistake so common to most persons who have little 
 experience of fungus eating. That mistake consists 
 in taking the common mushroom as the type, and 
 supposing that all others must resemble it in such 
 manner as to be a substitute for it, or replace it. 
 
124 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI.' 
 
 There is present no other idea but that of the 
 peculiar mushroom flavour, of the heavy mushroom 
 odour. All other species are approached with this 
 preconceived notion, are tested by this arbitrary test, 
 and failure is a result easily predicated. Against this 
 assumption too strong a protest cannot well be made. 
 No one presumes that all animal food is precisely the 
 same ; that beef and mutton and venison and fowl 
 are different names for the same thing. Each has 
 its own individual flavour, and no one seeks to com- 
 pare them with any other which may be arbitrarily 
 set up as the type of animal food. It is the same 
 with the edible fungi to a large extent, since each 
 kind has its own peculiarity and is the better for 
 a peculiar mode of treatment. It is simply courting 
 disappointment to anticipate that all are alike, except 
 in form and name, whilst in fact no two kinds are so 
 absolutely alike as to be indistinguishable by an 
 educated palate. H ence, then, it would follow that 
 the methods of preparation for the table may be sup- 
 posed to differ, and that a method which is the most 
 successful with one kind will not be the best for 
 another. These are details which experience will 
 soon impress upon us, and there is no more fitting 
 example for the test than the subject of the present 
 chapter. 
 
 Subject to this reservation, that it is an esculent to 
 be judged solely on its own merits, we find Mrs 
 Hussey writing of it that " If it is not beef itself it is 
 
VEGETABLE BEEF STEAK. I 25 
 
 the sauce for it," and the dictum of the Rev. M. J. 
 Berkeley that it was " One of the best things he ever 
 ate, but then it was prepared by a skilful cook." Or, 
 again, Mr Worthington Smith, who writes, " It is truly 
 a vegetable beef steak, for the taste resembles meat 
 in a remarkable manner. It is good broiled with 
 a steak and properly seasoned. There is a slight 
 but very perceptible acid flavour with it, which gives 
 considerable zest and piquancy to the dish, rendering 
 it a treat for an epicure." 
 
 In France it is first washed and dried then placed 
 in boiling water for a short time, and afterwards 
 stewed with butter, parsley, scallion, pepper, and salt, 
 yolk of egg being afterwards added when the stew 
 is ready for the table. In Vienna it is sliced in 
 thin slices, and eaten in salad as we eat beetroot. 
 
 Its chief use and value is in furnishing a kind of 
 sauce or gravy, and for this Mrs Hussey has supplied 
 a method. Slice and macerate the fungus with salt, 
 after the manner of making mushroom ketchup. The 
 deep, red liquor that is produced should be put into 
 a dish with a little lemon juice, and minced shallots, 
 and a broiled rump steak deposited in it. This 
 liquor is not catsup for it has but little of the 
 flavour of mushroom, but it is a beef gravy of high 
 virtue. 
 
 Dr Badham says that the best way to dress it, if 
 old, is to stew it down for stock, and reject the flesh ; 
 if young, it may be eaten in substance, plain or with 
 
126 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 minced meat ; in all cases its succulency is such that 
 it furnishes its own sauce. 
 
 An ordinary and expeditious method is to slice up 
 the Fistulina and fry it together with rump steak, to 
 which it furnishes a savoury addition. Of course it 
 may be fried and eaten by itself, but it gives more 
 satisfaction when simply treated as a sauce. 
 
 XIX.— PUFF BALLS. 
 
 OUR earliest acquaintance with the great puff ball 
 {Lycoperdon giganteum) was made in the country, 
 amongst the cottagers of an agricultural population. 
 Old and dried specimens, entire, or in parts, were 
 carefully preserved for use, in one of two ways, but 
 neither of them gastronomic. In those days it was 
 considered that a fragment of the woolly interior 
 mass, with its profusion of minute snuff-coloured 
 spores, was the best of all remedies to apply for the 
 staunching of blood in wounds. Elderly dames, who 
 in small villages acquire a reputation in the healing 
 art, preserved fragments year after year, for use in 
 cases of emergency, and the readiest and most 
 common application for a deep cut was to bind a 
 piece of " puff ball " over the wound, and allow it to 
 remain until healed. The other use was for stupefy- 
 ing bees when the natives had a design upon their 
 
PUFK BALLS. I 27 
 
 honey. These, and no other, were believed to be the 
 reasons why puff balls were sent into the world, 
 excepting, perhaps, certain schoolboys who imagined 
 that Providence had supplied them to their hands as 
 instruments of torture to be applied to their fellows, 
 by an outward application to noses and eyes. 
 
 The danger of the latter mode of utilizing the puff 
 ball was illustrated at Edinburgh a few years since. 
 The assistant to a learned professor, making prepar- 
 ation for a coming lecture, was industriously operating 
 upon a large puff ball, which had been kept exposed 
 and covered with dust. In order to remove this 
 dust and make the specimen fit for exhibition on the 
 lecture table, it was brushed and beaten so that a 
 perfect cloud of the minute spores enveloped the 
 unsuspecting operator. These minute bodies found 
 entrance by his mouth and nostrils, with such effect 
 that he was confined to his bed for many days, under 
 the care of most competent medical men, and 
 narrowly escaped with his life. 
 
 In Norfolk these large puff balls, found at the 
 margins of corn fields in harvest time, are locally 
 known as " Buffers," or, as some prefer to write it, 
 " Bullfists," and in other counties they appear also to 
 have local names, so that they are well known to the 
 natives. In all stages they have a sinister reputation, 
 and we remember the horror caused on one occasion 
 by our determination to have a portion of one cooked 
 for our own consumption. On all hands it was 
 
128 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 declared to be "rank pi'sen," and no one would 
 undertake to help us "shuffle off this mortal coil." 
 This may be the reason why men and boys persist 
 in knocking and kicking them to atoms whenever 
 found. 
 
 There is a tradition of olden time, in the days of 
 " flint and steel," that housewives employed the dried 
 substance of this fungus as tinder, and old Gerarde 
 remarks that " In divers parts of England, where 
 people doth dwell farre from neighbours, they carry 
 them kindled with fire, which lasteth long." In 
 allusion to some of the old customs, it is written — 
 
 " The aged Puff balls shall help us to cheat 
 The dainty bees of their luscious meat ; 
 While others shall turn to give us light, 
 And scare from our dell the dreary night." 
 
 The giant puff ball is sometimes not larger than a 
 moderately sized turnip, but it is not uncommonly 
 " as big as a man's head." We have met with them 
 a foot in diameter, but never so large as a recumbent 
 sheep, as narrated of one in America. 
 
 Professor Bessey says it was of an oval outline, and 
 measured five feet four in its longest diameter, and 
 four feet six inches in its smallest diameter, whilst its 
 height was but nine and a half inches. Professor 
 Call says of it that it was much larger than the 
 largest washtub we have at home. Only imagine a 
 slice from such a puff ball fried for breakfast— only a 
 
PL. 9. 
 
PUFF BALLS. I 29 
 
 yard and a half long. A fairly good-sized specimen 
 was recorded in the Gardener's Chronicle (September 
 20, 1884), which was five feet four inches in circum- 
 ference, but that would give only a diameter of 
 about twenty-one inches, with which we must "rest 
 and be thankful." 
 
 The form of the giant puff ball is oval, sometimes 
 nearly globose, depressed a little at the top, and of a 
 pure white colour, without and within, so long as it 
 remains fit for food. The surface is smooth and soft 
 like kid leather, but at length cracking. As it ripens 
 it becomes discoloured and dry. The interior is at 
 first, and for a long time, pure white, juicy but firm, 
 so as to be cut easily like a turnip. Afterwards it 
 turns sulphury yellow, and finally olive, when it is 
 resolved into a mass of delicate threads mixed with 
 a profusion of minute spores, like snuff. It is only 
 in the immature condition, and whilst the interior 
 remains fleshy and perfectly white, that it is edible. 
 
 It grows on the borders of fields, in orchards, 
 sometimes in meadows, and occasionally in gardens, 
 being juicy and good about the end of July or 
 August, reaching the powdery state in September. 
 In agricultural districts it is always sought for in 
 harvest time, if intended to be eaten. Usually it is 
 found singly, or only two or three together, but 
 occasionally they form a segment of a large ring. Un- 
 fortunately the mystery of cultivation has not been 
 solved. 
 
 I 
 
130 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 A few years since a friend occupied a house on 
 Wandsworth Common, and adjoining was an enclosed 
 ground plot intended to be built upon. By arrange- 
 ment with the landlord the use of this plot was 
 secured to our friend as a rough kitchen garden and 
 playground for his children. On a visit we remarked 
 a preserved portion of some two or three square yards, 
 protected by thorns, &c. Upon enquiry it was ascer- 
 tained that large puff balls had come up on this spot, 
 and of course had been appropriated and eaten. The 
 protection had been supplied in hopes of a crop in 
 the succeeding year, if the ground was not trodden or 
 disturbed. These hopes were realized, for on the 
 following, and succeeding years, the puff balls came 
 up on the same spot, until the builders appropriated 
 the plot, and a villa was reared where the puff balls 
 used to grow. For many years our friend had a 
 succession of puff balls for the table, and duly 
 appreciated the privilege. 
 
 It is a curious experience in connection with this 
 fungus that although we have introduced and recom- 
 mended it as food to a large number of persons, we 
 have never discovered one who did not approve of it. 
 One incident we have related before will bear repeti- 
 tion. " A gardener brought us a large puff ball, equal 
 in size to a half quartern loaf, which was still in its 
 young and pulpy state, of a beautiful creamy white- 
 ness when cut. It had been found developing itself 
 in a garden at Highgate, and to the finder its virtues 
 
PUFF BALLS. 1 3 1 
 
 were unknown. We had this specimen cut in slices 
 of about half an inch in thickness, or rather less, the 
 outer skin peeled off, and each slice dipped in egg 
 which had been beaten up, then sprinkled with bread 
 crumbs, and fried in butter, with salt and pepper. 
 The result was exceedingly satisfactory ; and finding 
 this immense fungus more than our family could 
 consume whilst it remained fresh, we invited several 
 friends to partake, and they were as delighted as 
 ourselves with the new relish ; some at first declined, 
 but gradually one after another fell in, until the 
 whole united in a first, but certainly not the last, 
 experiment upon fried puff ball." 
 
 The testimony of the late Rev. Dr Curtis proves 
 that the giant puff ball is duly appreciated in the 
 United States, for he writes — " It is a great favourite 
 with me as it is indeed with all my acquaintances 
 who have tried it. It has not the high aroma of 
 some others, but it has a delicacy of flavour that 
 makes it superior to any omelette I have ever eaten. 
 It seems furthermore to be so digestible as to adapt 
 itself to the most delicate stomachs. It is the South 
 Down of mushrooms." 
 
 The instructions for cooking are in all cases limited 
 to a few words, and the suggested processes are all 
 very similar. One says — Cut in slices half an inch 
 thick, it may be simply broiled or fried with butter, 
 pepper, and salt, and when served up hot will meet 
 with general approbation. Another says — Cut slices 
 
132 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 half an inch thick, dip in yolk of egg, sprinkle with 
 pepper, salt, and sweet herbs, fry in fresh butter, and 
 serve hot. Another says — Fry the half inch slices 
 in fresh butter, with a very slight sprinkling of salt, 
 and any preserve that might be available, and serve 
 hot. Our own method has been to cut the slices less 
 than half an inch thick, cover them with egg beaten 
 up, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, fry them until 
 the surface is browned, like a fried sole, and then 
 serve. Of course pepper and salt are better sprinkled 
 over before frying. The universality with which this 
 dish is appreciated is more remarkable than with any 
 other fungus which we have introduced to our friends. 
 We have no recollection of a single instance in which 
 it was not approved. 
 
 There are several kinds of smaller puff balls which 
 are common on lawns, heaths, and pastures ; these are 
 doubtless harmless in the young state, and whilst the 
 flesh is pure white. They have been recommended 
 as food, cooked in the same way as the giant puff ball, 
 but we have never tried them, chiefly on account of 
 their small size. On no account should any puff ball 
 be cooked after the flesh has commenced discoloura- 
 tion. 
 
BUFF CAPS AND IVORY CAPS. 133 
 
 XX.— BUFF CAPS AND IVORY CAPS. 
 
 Most persons who have taken sufficient interest in 
 growing fungi to notice them will be familiar with 
 the form and colour of a peculiar buff tinted mush- 
 room, which comes up on lawns and pastures in the 
 autumn. Several will have been seen growing 
 together amongst the grass, so that occasionally a 
 good basketful may be collected in ten minutes. We 
 have called this the " buff caps " (Hygrophorus pra- 
 lensis) for lack of a better name. And yet the colour 
 is hardly " buff," and hardly fawn colour, and not 
 flesh colour, but something of a combination of all, 
 which goes by the name of gilvous. The mushroom 
 in question is a clean, neat-growing species, with a 
 cap two or three inches broad, smooth and soft, like 
 a tan coloured kid glove, and at first very convex, 
 but afterwards more flattened. When cut through it 
 will be observed that the flesh is very thick, 
 especially at the centre of the cap, tapering down- 
 wards into the stem, which is rather short, and a little 
 lighter in colour than the cap, and thinnest at the 
 base. The gills are distant from each other, so that 
 the cross veins can be seen which run between them, 
 comparatively broad, running some distance down 
 the stem, so that they are arched, until when old the 
 
134 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 cap is flattened, the colour being the same as that of 
 the cap. It has rather a pleasant, but not very 
 decided odour, and mild taste. The colour is not a 
 common one even amongst fungi, and there is but 
 little chance of confounding it with any other ; but it 
 should be remembered that it does not grow in 
 woods, but in open places, on lawns, and especially 
 downs, amongst short grass, that the gills are wide 
 apart, and run a long way down the stem, and no 
 mistake is possible. Opinions may be divided as to 
 whether this should be considered as a mushroom of 
 the first class, as an esculent, or only second rate, 
 which depends much on cooking ; at all events it is 
 thoroughly wholesome, and of a delicate flavour. 
 
 " Ivory caps " {Hygrophorus virgineus) is of a 
 smaller size than "buff caps," and grows in damper 
 places, to a very late period of the season, regardless 
 of frost, unless it is very sharp and sudden. It is 
 wholly white as snow, and though small is conspicu- 
 ous amongst the green grass. The cap is one or two 
 inches broad, soon expanded and flattened, viscid 
 when moist, and even slimy in very wet weather. 
 The stem is short, and the gills are continued from 
 the edge of the cap down the stem, so as to form an 
 inverted cone. They are distant apart and broad, so 
 that the veins at the base may be distinctly seen 
 passing from gill to gill. No appreciable odour can 
 be distinguished, and the taste is mild. The only other 
 pure white species found amongst grass is also edible, 
 
BUFF CAPS AND IVORY CAPS. 1 35 
 
 so that there is nothing with which it could be 
 confounded. 
 
 There is a rather larger species in woods, with a 
 longer stem (Hygrophorus eburneus) which is also 
 edible. It is pure white, and rather slimy, the cap is 
 convex, two or three inches broad, and shining when 
 dry. The stem is twice as long as the diameter of 
 the cap, with the upper part sprinkled with minute 
 point like scales, the gills reach the stem but are not 
 continued down it. The specimens are scattered, but 
 by no means uncommon. We could never detect any 
 odour, although there is a similar species, with a 
 brownish tint in the centre of the cap, which possesses 
 a strong, unpleasant odour like that of the larvae of the 
 goat moth. As far as their esculent properties 
 are concerned we do not recognise any difference 
 between the woodland and the pasture species. The 
 strong smelling species we have never been tempted 
 to eat; it probably is quite harmless, but has no 
 reputation as an esculent species, still we have no 
 fondness for original research where the stomach is 
 the test. 
 
 The Hygrophori have hitherto hardly received the 
 justice which is due to them as articles of food. One 
 advantage they certainly possess which should not be 
 overlooked, and that is their general innocence of 
 harm. We cannot indicate a single species which is 
 positively known to be poisonous, although suspicions 
 have always hovered about two species common 
 
136 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 amongst grass late in the season — the one with a conical 
 green and yellow cap, and the other with a conical 
 yellowish cap soon turning black when bruised or old. 
 However, we are concerned now with two species 
 which are common and not unclean. The pasture 
 hygrophorus {H. pratensis) is universally recognised 
 as " perfectly wholesome," but as it is a somewhat dry 
 fungus requires care in cooking to prevent its being 
 condemned as tough. Dr Bull wrote of it that it was 
 " A very excellent fungus, of pleasant appearance, 
 agreeable odour, and delicate flavour." 
 
 The ivory caps (Hygrophorus virgineus) and its 
 smaller white companion (H. niveus) are worthy of 
 more attention than fungus eaters have given to them. 
 This may be predicated from the fact that no special 
 modes of cooking have been recommended for them 
 beyond " stew gently with fine herbs and delicate 
 sauce." Both require the addition of gravy, and as 
 the Woolhope record intimates—" They should be 
 stewed very gently for an hour, with the usual condi- 
 ments, closely covered up, and served hot. " Like all. 
 mushrooms of dry texture that require cooking for 
 some time to make them tender, it is necessary to 
 keep the temperature low, that the delicate flavour 
 may not be lost. The white species are not so dry as 
 the pasture hygrophorus, and the late Dr Chapman 
 has remarked that they have the flavour of the fairy 
 ring champignon, but are more tender and delicate, 
 
BUFF CAPS AND IVORY CAPS. 1 37 
 
 and either boiled or fried are an excellent dish for the 
 breakfast table. 
 
 There is, however, another Hygrophorus which can- 
 not be omitted, since it is one of the most splendid 
 in colour and delicate in flavour. This is the large 
 crimson species found on lawns in the latter days of 
 autumn {Hygrophorus coccineus). There is no fungus 
 with which it can be confounded save one, and that 
 is another species of the same genus, which is also 
 edible, and hence there is no danger. The cap is 
 obtusely conical, two inches in height, or more, of a 
 bright crimson, but soon turning pale at the top ; in 
 expanding it usually splits in the line of the gills, for 
 the substance of the cap is rather thin ; it is elevated 
 upon a hollow reddish stem, an inch longer than the 
 cap, and the gills are tinged with crimson. It is a 
 most unmistakable object, and has been depicted in 
 books and pictures over and over again. Until 
 recently we did not attempt to verify the report that 
 it was excellent eating, but having found some half 
 a dozen tempting specimens, we made drawings of 
 them first and devoured them afterwards. Grilled 
 with a piece of butter, salt and pepper, and served 
 on toast they proved to be most delicate and delicious. 
 There was not the slightest indication of toughness, 
 for indeed the entire fungus is so tender and fragile 
 that such a condition was never feared ; but we were 
 scarcely prepared to experience such a delicacy as it 
 proved to be. 
 
I38 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 XXL— THE OYSTER MUSHROOM. 
 
 THERE is a general impression amongst novices in 
 the art of fungus eating that none of the species 
 which are found growing upon trees are good food, 
 and many of them positively deleterious. This, how- 
 ever, is too sweeping a condemnation which is not 
 borne out by fact. It is true that the most delicious 
 of edible fungi do not grow upon trees, but upon the 
 ground ; still there are several species which grow 
 habitually upon decayed wood that are not only in- 
 nocuous, but also very good for food. Some of these 
 it shall be our endeavour to describe as clearly as we 
 can, commencing with one of the largest, although, 
 perhaps, not quite the best. 
 
 The oyster mushroom (Agaricus ostreatus) is a very 
 common fungus on fallen trees, stumps, and standing 
 trees which have commenced decay. It is a tufted, 
 or ccespitose species, growing in dense overlapping 
 clusters of twenty or thirty individuals, so that the 
 cluster is very often a foot in diameter. The stems 
 are lateral, short, and rather thick, and the gills are 
 white. The spores also are white, and may often be 
 seen lying like hoar frost on any object which may 
 lie beneath the gills. The whole fungus is moist and 
 fleshy, soft to the touch, especially in damp weather, 
 
THE OYSTER MUSHROOM. 1 39 
 
 but not viscid. It is essential, however, that we 
 describe the whole fungus in detail, as intelligibly as 
 we can, without resorting to technicalities. 
 
 The caps are closely imbricated, or overlapping, like 
 the tiles of a house. Each individual pileus is some- 
 what fan shaped, or forming three parts of a circle, 
 some are two or three, and others five or six inches 
 in diameter. The central portion, and backwards, 
 is rather depressed. The whole colour is usually ashy 
 grey, becoming tawny, and at length paler with age, 
 or in dry weather. The flesh of the cap is thick and 
 white, with a pleasant taste. The edge of the cap is 
 at first turned in, and delicately downy, soon becom- 
 ing smooth. The margin is almost always palest, and 
 often cracks as it expands. The whole surface is 
 smooth and shining when dry. The stem is short 
 and curved ; the gills are quite white and broad, run- 
 ning down the stem, where they become very 
 narrow, ultimately like veins, with cross veins 
 between them, almost like a raised network on the 
 stem. The whole fungus has a strong mushroomy 
 odour, but not unpleasant. 
 
 There is a variety of this fungus which has the 
 caps of a bluish grey, with the centre turning of a 
 tawny brown with age. Some have considered it a 
 distinct species, and called it columbinus from its 
 dove-colour, but for our purpose it may be regarded 
 as a variety, as it is equally good to eat. Certain 
 enthusiasts have imagined that this 'species has some- 
 
140 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 what the flavour of oysters, although we fear they 
 have been carried away by their imagination. Hav- 
 ing had some experience in the flavour of oysters, 
 and also in that of the oyster mushroom, we regret 
 to confess that our imagination did not suggest a 
 resemblance. It is a firm, fleshy fungus, and when 
 slowly and carefully cooked, a pleasant and digestible 
 one, but it may be spoiled by bad treatment, and any 
 way, we prefer the elm tree mushroom, hereafter 
 described. 
 
 The methods of cooking for all the species in- 
 cluded in this chapter would be identical, and hence 
 may be relegated to the end. 
 
 Some misapprehension has filled the minds of 
 persons who should have known better, that another 
 species, very similar to the above in all essential par- 
 ticulars, is unsafe and possibly deleterious. Having 
 eaten it ourselves we can at once dispel the illusion, 
 and affirm that the Agaricus euosmus is quite as 
 good, and equally trustworthy, with the oyster mush- 
 room. As already indicated, the two are almost 
 identical in appearance and colour, so that the descrip- 
 tion of one will apply generally to the other, with 
 this one exception, that in Agaricus euosmus there is 
 a faint pinkish tinge about the gills, and the spores as 
 they fall are not of a pure white but of a very pale 
 rose colour, with a slight suggestion of violet, and the 
 odour is a little different, possessing a resemblance to 
 tarragon." It is not so common as the oyster mush- 
 
THE OYSTER MUSHROOM. I4.T 
 
 room, and usually makes its appearance earlier in the 
 year, at the end of spring, or commencement of 
 summer, although it even extends into August. 
 
 It is only during the past three or four years that 
 another edible fungus has been recognised as grow- 
 ing on elm trees in this country, and yet now it has 
 been seen in half a dozen places remote from each 
 other. This {Agaricus sapidus) is smaller than the 
 foregoing, and the clusters are not so large or dense, 
 seldom more than half a dozen growing together ; 
 the stems are confluent, or grown into each other, so 
 as to form a sort of common branched stem. The 
 caps are orbicular, about two or three inches across, 
 and deeply depressed in the centre ; they do not 
 overlap as in the other species, and hence present a 
 different appearance when growing. In colour it is 
 usually white, but occasionally with tints of brown. 
 The flesh is always white, and sweet to the taste. 
 There is little or no perceptible odour. As an 
 esculent it scarcely differs from the oyster mushroom, 
 or, if anything, it is a little more delicate. There is 
 something very tantalising about this species, in that 
 it will be seen growing high up a standing elm, for it 
 grows mostly on standing timber, on a dead branch, 
 or at the side of a hollow in the trunk, some twenty 
 or thirty feet from the ground. 
 
 We must not omit the genuine elm mushroom, one 
 of our oldest favourites {Agaricus ulmarius), and, if 
 our opinion goes for anything, the best of all this 
 
142 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 group of tree agarics. It is so common that it may 
 be seen growing in September on almost every de- 
 caying elm (and decaying elms are by no means 
 rare) ; often again, unfortunately, high up in the 
 tree. We have a vivid recollection of an excursion 
 during which one of the party ventured to climb an 
 old elm to secure a splendid specimen of this fungus, 
 which was many inches across, and a white nutty 
 flesh, more than an inch in thickness. The fungus 
 came down, and so did the climber, for he trusted to 
 a rotten bough, and both descended together. Poor 
 fellow, his excursion was ended for that day, and it 
 was some time before he recovered wholly, although 
 no bones were broken. The fungus was so large 
 that it was divided between three or four persons, 
 each of whom had a good meal, for it was in a prime 
 condition. 
 
 This reminds us that we have not yet attempted to 
 describe the elm tree mushroom. It does not grow 
 in clusters, or not more than three or four together in 
 a clump, sometimes only one, but it attains a large 
 size, six to nine inches in diameter, with a thick, 
 white flesh. The colour of the cap is a creamy 
 white, turning a little rusty in the centre when old. 
 It is almost round, or rather elongated, and fan 
 shaped with a thick, curved, oblique stem, entering 
 the cap away from the centre, towards one side, so 
 that it is what is termed excentric. Upwards it is 
 smooth, but rather woolly below, expanding into the 
 
THE OYSTER MUSHROOM. 1 43 
 
 cap. The gills are very broad, according to the size 
 of the cap. In the large specimen named above 
 they were nearly an inch, and comparatively thick, 
 broadest in the centre ; attenuated towards the 
 margin and abrupt behind, with a notch, or rounded, 
 but not running down the stem as in all the species 
 mentioned above. The gills are of a creamy yellow, 
 so that when cut through in section, they contrast 
 against the pure white flesh. It has a very pleasant 
 taste when raw, and can be eaten with sandwiches on 
 a foray day with much satisfaction. There is so 
 little tendency to decay that it will remain perfectly 
 good and edible for several days. 
 
 There are two or three others of the same group of 
 tree agarics with a one-sided stem which are re- 
 commended as edible, but these are mostly too rare 
 in this country to warrant their insertion here, inas- 
 much as a fungus which has to be hunted for 
 diligently, and not found more than once in ten 
 years, can hardly be relied upon as an article of 
 food. 
 
 It may not be out of place here to call attention to 
 the fact that we do not suspect any one of our 
 indigenous species of agaric, such as we have de- 
 scribed, with white spores, and a one-sided stem, to 
 be other than thoroughly harmless. We might as well 
 add that we believe them all to be wholesome, even 
 though some might be rather tough. This assurance 
 may give courage to those who feel nervous, under 
 
144 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 an old prejudice, that fungi found growing on trees 
 are not fit for food. 
 
 The methods of cooking hitherto adopted for these 
 fungi are by no means elaborate. It is always 
 advisable to discard the stems in all the fungi of 
 this type, that is, all of the agaric or mushroom 
 kind, because they are of a tougher substance, and at 
 the best would be indigestible. Unless the surface 
 of the cap is warty or scaly, it is unnecessary to 
 attempt to remove the cuticle or skin, which is not 
 often easily separable. It is quite eligible to slice 
 any of these fungi, or cut them into equal sized 
 pieces, and after the addition of salt and pepper to 
 stew them, adding sweet herbs, and thickening with 
 flour when nearly ready, stewing gently until uni- 
 formly soft. Of course gravy may be added, or 
 meat or fowl according to each individual conscience. 
 
 We have proved that the elm fungus may be cut 
 in slices, sprinkled with pepper and salt, and fried, 
 with or without bacon, but if without, then with 
 butter, gravy, or stock, or some other moisture to 
 prevent burning. In like manner the slices may be 
 placed in a stew pan with the usual condiments, and 
 an addition of sweet herbs, or a few slices of onion 
 when not disagreeable. 
 
FRAGRANT MUSHROOMS. 1 45 
 
 XXII.— FRAGRANT MUSHROOMS. 
 
 A CURIOUS question has been asked, but as yet re- 
 ceived no satisfactory reply, as to what is the special 
 purpose which is served by the odours of mushrooms, 
 and especially those in which the odour is fragrant 
 and pleasant. Are they designed to be attractive? 
 and if so, of what ? And are they in any way associ- 
 ated with the perpetuation of the species ? At present 
 we know nothing for certain of the fecundative ele- 
 ment in the mushroom tribe, and consequently of 
 fertilization, or cross fertilization, or hybridity, and so 
 all we can do is to speculate and dream. Still 
 the fact remains that certain fungi have odours 
 peculiar to them, and two or three of these come 
 within the range of our present object. 
 
 The particular odour alluded to by the term " fra- 
 grant mushrooms " is very different from the faint 
 mouldy odour which is not uncommon in fungi of 
 the mushroom type, or even of that strong and 
 peculiar odour of meal which is characteristic of many 
 edible species. This odour, which has good title to 
 be called fragrant, is of the coumarine type. Some- 
 thing not unlike the Tonquin bean, or melilot, or new 
 mown hay, or, as some call it, of anise. It seems 
 that the sense of smell differs in individuals, as does 
 
 K 
 
146 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 the sense of taste, and this is well exemplified in the 
 different opinions which different people are in the 
 habit of expressing as to the peculiar odours of fungi. 
 Present the same specimen to half a dozen individuals 
 by way of experiment, and no two of them will ex- 
 press the odour in the same terms. This renders it 
 the more difficult for us to describe odours, which 
 should be inhaled to be correctly appreciated. 
 
 Sweet odours are not at all common in fungi, but 
 the " green, sweet mushroom " (Agaricus odorus) is 
 one of the exceptions. It is always more or less 
 fragrant, and always the same odour, whether fresh or 
 dried, and is usually called an odour of anise. The 
 little species which is its possessor is to be found in 
 woods, growing amongst dead leaves, and seldom 
 more than three or four at a time, often only one or 
 two. The odour is rather strong and fascinating ; 
 when once inhaled there is a persistent inclination to 
 keep sniffing at it, and, fortunately, the agaric is not 
 fragile, but bears the handling exceedingly well. In 
 drying the odour does not disappear, but perhaps 
 rather to increase. The cap of this agaric is usually 
 about an inch and a half or two inches in diameter, 
 thin in the flesh, and of a peculiar dull bluish green, 
 which it is difficult to imitate. It is something of 
 a dull peacock green, approaching verdigris green, 
 but not exactly either, quite smooth, but never viscid 
 or shining, and with the texture of a good kid glove. 
 The stem is short and white, about as thick as a pipe 
 
FRAGRANT MUSHROOMS. 1 47 
 
 stem, but hardly two inches long, sometimes not 
 more than one. The gills are rather broad, attached 
 to, and a little inclined to run down the stem ; they 
 are not white but of a greyish or ashy tint. It has 
 been several times figured in books, but in most cases 
 as a failure, for there is a subtlety about the colour 
 which seems to evade the artist. Of the odour, how- 
 ever, there is no mistake, and will at any time prove 
 sufficient for its identification. 
 
 There is another similar species, with a greyish cap, 
 becoming dirty white, but it is so rare that it has 
 only been recognized in Britain on two occasions. It 
 is equally fragrant (Agaricus Trogii) and equally good 
 eating. 
 
 The other fragrant species to which a special 
 attention should be directed is by no means un- 
 common amongst grass in woods in the autumn. It 
 is the most common of the fragrant species, but is, 
 unfortunately, very small {Agaricus fragrans) ; the cap 
 is not more than an inch in diameter, often less, but 
 it seldom grows alone ; where one is found you may 
 expect to find twenty. The odour is almost identical 
 with that of the green, sweet mushroom, but hardly so 
 strong. It also is of a dry, tough texture, and may be 
 flattened and placed in a pocket-book, so that for 
 a long time the opening of the book allows the odour 
 to escape. The cap is convex, almost hemispherical, 
 with a dimple at the top, but it rarely becomes funnel- 
 shaped ; its colour when quite dry is creamy white, 
 
148 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 but it readily absorbs moisture and then it is darker ; 
 the stem is slender, rather long for the size of the cap, 
 say two inches, or more, and of the thickness of d 
 straw. The gills are rather "close together, arched, 
 and a little running down the stem, nearly white, 
 paler than the cap. There are two or three species 
 to be found growing in woods which resemble this in 
 size and appearance ; but 'the nose will always detect 
 the true species without fail. 
 
 Should it ever happen that sufficient specimens can 
 be collected to furnish a dish of fragrant mushrooms 
 no one should omit the opportunity, because although 
 there is a certain amount of toughness and dryness 
 about them when fresh, they become tender enough 
 when cooked with any ordinary amount of care. 
 There is one very strong point in their favour, that the 
 most complete novice may be quite sure of being 
 correct in his determination if he will only trust to his 
 nose. There is nothing in the fungus world with that 
 same odour which would do him harm. There is a 
 tough woody fungus to be found growing on willow 
 trunks which has a fainter share of the same odour, 
 but if the novice can get his teeth into that he may 
 be forgiven for all the harm it will do him. 
 
 No special instructions are requisite for these small 
 agarics, they may be stewed or fried, and put upon 
 sippets of toast. We should prefer the plan already 
 recommended in other cases — to lay them in a plate 
 *with pepper, salt, and butter, and cover with an 
 
FRAGRANT MUSHROOMS. 1 49 
 
 inverted basin, then place in an oven for ten minutes, 
 and keep covered until placed on the table, when the 
 odour will be quite appetizing enough to make the 
 gourmet wish that the supply had not been so scanty. 
 As a friend once observed — " I am always vexed that 
 I cannot obtain sufficient of them to satisfy me." 
 
 This introduction of the subject of fragrant mush- 
 rooms suggests allusion to two or three other species 
 which are characterised as edible, but we imagine not 
 particularly digestible. They are not so redolent 
 with the odour as the smaller species, but there is a 
 suggestion of the same odour, or nearly so, which is 
 at least pleasant. One of these supplementary species 
 is called Lentinus cochleatus, which is found usually in 
 the hollows of rotten stumps. There is a branched 
 stem deeply buried in the wood, each branch of which 
 bears a cap of somewhat irregular or contorted fan 
 shape, suggesting the tree loving species of the oyster 
 mushroom kind, but with this difference that it is 
 tougher in texture, becoming quite hard when dry, 
 and the edge of the gills are toothed or saw-like, as 
 though they had been gnawed by some insect. 
 There is a peculiar reddish tint throughout the whole 
 cluster, caps and stem, both within and without, the 
 caps being sometimes two or three inches broad. 
 The pinkish-white gills run downwards on the stem. 
 It is not at all a common fungus, and its chief interest 
 consists in the faint anise-like odour which pervades 
 it. We never felt any inclination to test its qualities 
 
I 50 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 as an esculent, on account of its toughness when fresh, 
 and no previous writer in English upon edible 
 mushrooms has ever condescended to notice it, and 
 yet it has been eaten on the Continent. All inquiries 
 amongst our fungus eating friends have failed to 
 discover anyone who has made the experiment. 
 
 There is yet another group of tough and rather 
 leathery fungi, at least when old, but somewhat more 
 succulent when young, amongst which is a similarly 
 fragrant species. This is Panus torulosus, a clean and 
 rather handsome species with caps two or three inches 
 in diameter, of a pale ochraceous flesh colour, 
 depressed in the middle so as to be almost funnel 
 shaped, and smooth, without any scales, but with a 
 dull, almost velvety appearance ; the stems are one- 
 sided, and short and woolly, especially about the base, 
 with a grey down. The gills are flesh coloured at 
 first, but become more tawny with age, gradually 
 attenuated behind, so as to run down almost like lines 
 upon the stem. This species dries readily when 
 mature, and as it contains so little water, does not 
 shrink or alter its shape, so that it can be kept for 
 years almost of the same colour and condition as 
 when gathered. This fact would suggest that as an 
 edible species it is without promise, and yet some of 
 the continental mycologists contend that it is edible — 
 when young. It is a saving clause to allude to its 
 juvenility, for when mature, one would almost as soon 
 think of experimenting upon an old pair of kid gloves 
 
MORELS. I 5 I 
 
 as a well grown specimen of Panus torulosus. We 
 have not the remotest intention of recommending it 
 either stewed or baked, although it might be as 
 harmless as saddle flaps, and possessing a far more 
 pleasant and attractive odour than Polyporus squamosus 
 which was figured by us in a former work on this 
 subject as eaten abroad, but of which Mrs Hussey 
 declared — " One might as soon think of eating saddle- 
 flaps." It seems strange to us islanders that such 
 things as these should ever have been recommended, 
 when we possess some eighty or a hundred species 
 which are at least succulent and juicy and more than 
 half of them excellent. But we Britishers are allowed 
 to possess "insular prejudices." 
 
 XXIIL— MORELS. 
 
 MORELS have such a singular appearance, and differ 
 so much in structure from the fungi already enumer- 
 ated, that we must at once endeavour to convey some 
 idea of their general character for the benefit of 
 those who may not have this preliminary knowledge. 
 The whole plant consists of a cap and stem, as in the 
 agarics, but it is a different kind of cap and stem, 
 so different as to puzzle the uninitiated. The cap 
 is globose, or oval, or conical, deeply pitted on the 
 
152 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 outside with deep, angular, hexagonal, or elongated 
 pits or hollows, so as to present a kind of honey- 
 combed appearance. In colour mostly tawny or 
 smoky brown. The base of the cap in some of the 
 species is grown to the stem ; in others it is free from 
 the stem half way up. The inside of the cap is 
 hollow and continuous with the hollow of the stem. 
 The latter is mostly robust, either about as long as 
 the height of the cap, or it may be several times 
 longer, mostly even, but very hollow, so that nowhere 
 is the flesh thicker than about the eighth of an inch. 
 
 The whole outside of the cap is a spore bearing 
 surface, but the spores are not naked as in agarics 
 or boleti, but usually eight spores are produced in 
 a row within a long, thin, cylindrical membrane, called 
 a spore-sac or ascus. These sac?, or asci, are closely 
 packed side by side, and immersed in the flesh of the 
 cap. When the spores are ripe the sac opens at the 
 apex and the spores escape. The same kind of spore 
 system is also found in the helvellas, hereafter 
 alluded to. The whole substance of these fungi is 
 rather dry, but fragile, and not in any degree fibrous 
 or tough. They have an odour resembling that of 
 mushrooms, and a sweet, pleasant taste. As far as 
 we are aware, all the known species are edible. 
 
 Morels are commonly exposed for sale about the 
 month of June in the Parisian markets ; but they are 
 rarely exhibited, even in Covent Garden, in this 
 country, although the dried fungus can generally be 
 
MORELS. 153 
 
 purchased, if enquired for, throughout the year, chiefly 
 being imported. 
 
 The common morel {Morchella esculentd) has a 
 rather globose cap, about two inches in diameter, 
 attached to the stem at the base, this latter being 
 about the length of the height of the cap, and half an 
 inch thick. The stem is white and the pileus of a 
 tawny grey. It is found in spring or early summer, 
 say from the latter end of April to June, on 
 chalky or clayey soil, rarely on sand, and sometimes 
 on burnt ground. It is not unusual to find it in old 
 double hedgerows and occasionally in woods and 
 orchards. 
 
 The conical morel {Morchella cornea) is nearly of 
 the same size, but the cap has a conical shape, is 
 almost twice as long as broad, and the pits on the 
 cap are long and narrow, with here and there trans- 
 verse veins. Otherwise it so much resembles the 
 common morel that some persons believe it to be only 
 a variety of that species. At any rate it is equally 
 delicate, and that is of the greatest importance to us. 
 
 There is yet another species, with a rather conical 
 cap, but the bottom edge of the cap is free from the 
 stem, and for half way up. It is smaller in the cap, 
 and longer in the stem than the conical morel, and, 
 from the half free pileus, or cap, has been called the 
 free-cap morel {Morchella semilibera). It occurs at 
 the same period of the year, and in similar stations 
 to the other species. It seems strange that in many 
 
I 54 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 parts of the country the rural population appear to 
 have no name and no knowledge of these fungi, and 
 yet they are about the safest and most delicious of 
 the entire tribe. 
 
 There are two other, much larger, but we fear 
 much rarer species, which deserve a place in this 
 enumeration. The one species is the great morel 
 {Morchella gigas) which has often a stem six inches 
 long and two to three inches thick. The cap is also 
 rather conical, free at the edge, and half-way up, two 
 or three inches high and broad. It resembles a 
 gigantic form of the last species, but differs from it 
 not only in size, but also in the scaly stem. It has 
 only been found a few times in this country. 
 
 The other, and last, species is Smith's morel (Mor- 
 chella Smithiand) which was at first mistaken for the 
 giant morel or the thick-stemmed morel, and so called 
 when figured in the Journal of Botany. The cap is 
 subglobose, tawny, and with deep large pits, the base 
 continuous with the stem. It reaches to a foot in 
 height and seven inches in diameter, with a robust 
 stem. Several instances are known of its occurrence 
 in this country and a single specimen is quite 
 sufficient for a substantial meal. It is remarkable 
 how very persistently a certain class of people, pre- 
 sumably with toes more active than their brains, make 
 war upon unknown fungi, kicking them in pieces, 
 without thought or reason, whenever met with. On 
 one occasion the remains of a splendid specimen of 
 
MORELS. 155 
 
 this morel, the size of a half quartern loaf, were found 
 kicked, about by some boys, and brought to us for 
 identification. It was a lamentable wreck, but when 
 carefully washed made an excellent meal. 
 
 There are at least two other rare species which are 
 British, but we fear too rare to be a trustworthy 
 source of food supply. 
 
 Before adverting to culinary processes it may be 
 remarked that if morels are sprinkled with salt, and 
 treated in the same manner as mushrooms are treated 
 for " Catsup," they will yield a delicate, almost colour- 
 less liquid sauce, of the same nature as " Catsup," but 
 for which we presume some special name must be 
 invented, and registered, as it has not the same 
 flavour, and with the same name would be liable to 
 misconception. 
 
 Morels are cooked in various ways, according to 
 individual taste. For a rago&t the fungi are cleaned 
 and wiped to remove all trace of sand, cut in two, 
 then placed in a stewpan with butter, and set over a 
 clear, brisk fire ; when the butter is melted, squeeze 
 in a little lemon juice, give a few turns, and add salt, 
 pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Cook slowly for 
 an hour, adding at intervals small quantities of beef 
 gravy or jelly broth. When done, thicken with yolk 
 of eggs. 
 
 Another method consists in washing and wiping 
 the morels (which should never be omitted), then put 
 them on the fire with butter, salt, pepper, and a small 
 
156 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 bundle of herbs. Simmer together, and add a little 
 flour ; soften with good beef gravy. Let them cook, 
 and reduce, over a gentle fire, then remove the bundle 
 of herbs. Fry some bread, crumbs in butter, then 
 beat up the yolks of three eggs, add a pinch of 
 powdered sugar which mix with the morels, and pour 
 the whole over the fried bread crumbs previously put 
 in a dish. 
 
 The Italian method consists in cutting the morels 
 into two or three pieces, and putting them in a stew- 
 pan over a lively fire ; add olive oil, pepper, salt, and 
 a bundle of herbs, let them simmer some minutes, 
 then add chopped parsley, a little onion, and a chive 
 of garlic. Continue the cooking over a gentle fire. 
 Soften with beef gravy and a glass of white wine. 
 Serve with a piece of lemon, and bread crumbs fried 
 brown and crisp. 
 
 In simpler ways some think that no better plan 
 can be found than to surround a joint of veal with 
 morels and cook them together. It will be remem- 
 bered that they will dry readily in a current of air, 
 and in this manner keep through the winter, for 
 seasoning and flavouring broths, soups, and stews. 
 
 The culture of the morels has scarcely been taken 
 seriously into account, and yet it is one of the pos- 
 sibilities, if an announcement made by M. Simar 1 is 
 to be taken into account. He says — " I brought to 
 
 1 Bulletin de la Societe D'Horticulture de Meaux (1874) p. 7. 
 Gard. Chron., Jan. 8, 1876, p. 43. 
 
MORELS. 157 
 
 the meeting, in January 1872, a pot of arum gar- 
 nished with large morels, and I had them in like 
 manner on almost all my pots. After long searching 
 I came to suspect that it proceeded from the com- 
 position of the earth which I used for potting; never- 
 theless, I could not be positively certain of it. At 
 the beginning of the autumn of 1873 I made a 
 composition of earths analogous to that which I had 
 made in 1872, and obtained exactly the same results. 
 I am now therefore assured of the culture of the 
 morel, and that it can be effected with much greater 
 economy, and less trouble, than the culture of the 
 mushroom. 
 
 " My earth for the purpose is thus composed — (1) 
 one quarter of two year old tan, well rotted ; (2) one 
 quarter of heath mould or leaf mould ; (3) one quarter 
 of ordinary vegetable mould ; (4) one quarter of fresh 
 loam." 
 
 A writer suggests the addition of a fifth proportion 
 of mould from some spot where the morel is known 
 to thrive. 
 
 M. Simar directs that the whole is to be -carefully 
 mixed together. When the composition is made, 
 you refill your pots with this fresh compost. At the 
 beginning of October you make a bed of fresh tan, 
 in the state it comes from the tanner's hand, six or 
 seven inches deep, the fresher the tan the better. In 
 this you set the pots as close together as possible, 
 and let them remain without touching them ; in three 
 
158 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 weeks or a month you will find mycelium on the 
 surface of each pot ; about three weeks afterwards it 
 disappears. There is no occasion to be alarmed, for 
 five weeks after its disappearance you will find on all 
 your pots hundreds of morels of the size of pins' 
 heads ; you have then only to give frequent sprink- 
 lings with soft water. The most suitable temperature 
 is 47° F. at the beginning of the culture, and 50° to- 
 wards its close. 
 
 In the autumn two or three excellent substitutes 
 for the morel may be found not uncommonly in our 
 woods. We have witnessed them by scores in Epping 
 Forest, growing undisturbed, for hundreds of Bank 
 Holiday visitors have not the remotest idea of their 
 gastronomic value. The white helvella {Helvetia 
 crispd) is two or three inches high, almost entirely 
 white, with a fluted, irregular stem, more than half an 
 inch thick, and a twisted, contorted cap, smooth on 
 both sides, not much thicker than brown paper, and 
 about two inches across. No description would give 
 so good an idea of its appearance as a figure (plate 12, 
 fig. 42), for it would be difficult to describe the con- 
 volutions of its flexile cap. For the benefit of the 
 botanical student we may add that it is allied to the 
 true morels, and has its spores contained in asci, 
 packed side by side in the flesh of the upper surface 
 of the cap. It is amusing sometimes, when the spores 
 are ripe, to see them jerked out in little white clouds 
 from the surface of the cap, either under the influence 
 
MORELS. 159 
 
 of the light, or from the slight touch of a passing 
 object. During September and October it is unusual 
 to pass through a wood without seeing one or two of 
 them, seldom more, by the wayside. There is nothing 
 else like them, so that there is no fear of danger. 
 
 When fresh they have a pleasant nutty flavour, 
 but no appreciable odour. Unfortunately a day's 
 excursion seldom furnishes more than a few specimens, 
 but it is always commendable to secure every one, and 
 if sufficient cannot be collected for a ragout, one or 
 two may be easily dried, and added to the store for 
 the winter. 
 
 There is another species, not usually so common, 
 but apparently rather more gregarious in its habits 
 {Helvetia lacunosd), almost of the same size, and 
 found in similar places. The cap is of dark slaty 
 smoke colour, in Epping Forest sometimes as large 
 as a child's fist, twisted and convoluted so as to 
 differ but little except in colour. 
 
 In one spot, a few yards square, in Monk's Wood, 
 we remember on one occasion to have collected a 
 large basket full in half an hour, and subsequently to 
 have usually found a few specimens every year near 
 the same spot. On that memorable occasion we 
 indulged in the good natured folly of introducing this 
 fungus to a mycophagous companion. The result 
 was more gratifying to him than to us, for he is now 
 in the habit of making clandestine visits annually to 
 this spot, in search of the coveted delicacy, and is 
 
l6o BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 generally successful. Once seen, it is easily recog- 
 nised, and once eaten, not readily forgotten. 
 
 Passing allusion may be made to a much smaller 
 species, with a slender stem, varying from the thick- 
 ness of a straw to that of a tobacco pipe, and a cap 
 under an inch in diameter {Helvetia elasticd) ; the whole 
 plant is of a dirty white colour, the cap less lobed, and 
 deformed, and the stem smooth, without any grooves 
 or channels. It is difficult to obtain sufficient for a 
 dish at any time, but solitary specimens may often be 
 gathered and dried. In fact, all the three species 
 may be mixed together, as their flavour is almost 
 identical, [and whether, eaten fresh or dried, may be 
 used indiscriminately. It is unnecessary to add that 
 should fortune favour the collector, the same methods 
 of cooking which are employed for morels may be 
 adopted with the helvellas. We have not attempted 
 to invent or suggest any more vulgar name for these 
 " false morels ; " and we fear that they will not soon 
 acquire one for themselves, as they are not obtrusive 
 in their colour or habits, and are not plentiful enough 
 to excite the curiosity of conventional travellers. 
 
fc > 
 
 X 
 
 iS 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 I ,. 
 
TRUFFLES. l6l 
 
 XXIV.— TRUFFLES. 
 
 If any fungi merit the title of aristocratic it must be 
 truffles, whether considered in relation to their 
 market value or the uses to which they are applied. 
 The poor man may enjoy his " vegetable beefsteak " 
 or his "vegetable sweetbread," and even indulge in 
 " procerus pie " or stewed " hedgehog," but he is 
 innocent of the flavour of truffles, and does not regale 
 himself with pate de fois gras. In former times the 
 hunting for truffles was a branch of industry practised 
 in Sussex and Kent, but in these degenerate days 
 truffle-hunting is almost unknown, and native truffles 
 rarely seen. Possibly as many truffles as ever lie 
 concealed beneath the surface of the Downs, but to 
 collect them is an occupation which does not pay, 
 and our supplies are derived from France. The 
 French truffle has the credit of possessing a superior 
 flavour, and can be supplied at a lower price. At 
 any rate there are people to be found who prefer, or 
 seem to prefer, anything of foreign origin to a like 
 article of native produce. 
 
 Truffles are subterranean fungi which grow and 
 perfect themselves beneath the surface of the soil, 
 and give no indication of their whereabouts. They 
 have the appearance of irregular, black, warty no- 
 
 L 
 
I 62 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 dules, sometimes nearly as large as the fist, at others 
 not exceeding that of a walnut. The interior is 
 pallid and mottled, the darker spots indicating 
 cavities filled with the blackish spores. Hunting for 
 mushrooms is comparatively easy, for the object of 
 search is visible when present, but truffles might be 
 plentiful, two or three inches beneath the surface, and 
 not be visible, or give any sign of their presence. 
 The only method available in such cases is to find some 
 animal which instinct or appetite might prompt to 
 scent out the buried treasure, and mark its hiding- 
 place. Two kinds of animals have been trained for 
 this purpose — truffle dogs in our own country and 
 truffle pigs in France. In both cases the odour of 
 the truffle is sufficient for the keen scent of the 
 animals, whilst the human hunter profits by the 
 produce. These are the instructions — " You must 
 have a sow, of five months old, a good walker, with 
 her mouth strapped up, and for her efforts recom- 
 pense her with acorns ; but as pigs are not easily led, 
 are stubborn, and go astray, and dig after a thousand 
 other things, there is but little to be done with them. 
 Dogs are better ; of these select a small poodle." 
 Another writer says of truffle hunting in France : 
 " A sow is employed to search for the truffles. At 
 the distance of twenty feet she scents the truffles and 
 makes'rapidly for the foot of the oak where she finds 
 them, and digs into the earth with her snout. She 
 would soon root up and eat her treasure were she 
 
TRUFFLES. 1 63 
 
 not turned aside by the light stroke of the stick on 
 her nose, and given an acorn or a dry chestnut, which 
 is her reward." 
 
 A writer on dogs has given the following interest- 
 ing account of the truffle dog, now almost a rarity. 
 He says that " The truffle dog is a small poodle 
 (nearly a pure poodle) weighing about fifteen pounds. 
 He is white, or black and white, or black, with the 
 black mouth and under lip of his race. He is a 
 sharp, intelligent, quaint companion, and has the 
 homing faculty of a pigeon. When sold to a new 
 master he has been known to find his way home for 
 sixty miles, and to have travelled the greater part of 
 the way by night. They are mute in their quest, 
 and should be thoroughly broken from all game. 
 These are essential' qualities in a dog whose owner 
 frequently hunts truffles at night, — in the shrubberies 
 of mansions protected by keepers and watchmen, 
 who regard him with suspicion. In order to dis- 
 tinguish a black dog on these occasions the hunter 
 furnishes this animal with a white shirt, and occasion- 
 ally also hunts him in a line. They are rather longer 
 on the leg than the true poodle, but they have ex- 
 quisite noses, and hunt close to the ground. On the 
 scent of a truffle (especially in the morning or evening, 
 when it gives out most smell) they show all the 
 keenness of a spaniel, working their short cropped 
 tails, and feathering along the surface of the ground 
 for from twenty to fifty yards. Arrived at the spot 
 
164 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 where the fungus lies buried some two or three inches 
 beneath the surface, they dig like a terrier at a rat's 
 hole ; and the best of them, if left alone, will disinter 
 the fungus, and carry it to his master. It is not 
 usual, however, to allow the dog to exhaust himself 
 in this way, and the owner forks up the truffle, and 
 gives the dog his usual reward — a piece of bread or 
 cheese ; for this he looks, from long habit, with the 
 keen glance of a Spanish gipsy. The truffle hunter 
 is set up in business when he possesses a good dog ; 
 all he requires besides will be a short staff, about 
 thirty inches long, shod with a strong iron point, and 
 at the other end furnished with a two-fanged iron 
 hook. With this implement he can dig the largest 
 truffle, or draw aside the briers or boughs in copse 
 wood to give his dog free scope to use his nose. He 
 travels usually thirty or forty miles on his hunting 
 expeditions, and with this (to use a business term) 
 inexpensive plant, keeps a wife and children easily. 
 We know personally one blue grizzled dog, of the old 
 truffle breed, which supports a family of ten children. 
 The truffle dog is a delicate animal to rear, and a 
 choice feeder. Being continually propagated from 
 one stock he has become peculiarly susceptible of all 
 dog diseases, and when that fatal year comes round 
 which desolates the kennel in his quarter, many 
 truffle hunters are left destitute of dogs, and conse- 
 quently short of bread ; for they will not believe (as 
 we believe) that any dog with a keen nose and lively 
 
TRUFFLES. 165 
 
 temper may be taught to hunt and find truffles. The 
 education of the dog commences when he is about 
 three months. old. At first he is taught to fetch a 
 truffle, and when he does this well and cheerfully, his 
 master places it on the ground, and slightly covers it 
 with earth, selecting one of peculiar fragrance for the 
 purpose. As the dog becomes more expert and 
 keen for the amusement, he buries the truffle deeper, 
 and rewards him according to his progress. He then 
 takes him where he knows truffles to be abundant, or 
 where they have been previously found by a well 
 broken animal, and marked. Thus he gradually 
 learns his trade, and becomes (as his forefathers have 
 been for many generations) the bread winner for his 
 master and his master's family ; unless he is so 
 fortunate as to become attache to some lordly 
 mansion, or possibly to a royal palace, in which case 
 he is a fortunate dog indeed." 
 
 In i860 it is recorded that a truffle was found in 
 Germany which weighed one pound seven ounces, 
 whilst Wallroth writes of them as having been found 
 formerly weighing two pounds each. 
 
 Experiments in truffle cultivation have often been 
 made in France. In the South they are said to be 
 raised by watering the soil with water in which the 
 skins of truffles have been rubbed. In Vaucleuse 
 crops have been raised in a meadow manured with 
 truffle parings; and there also seedling oaks have 
 been reared for the production of truffles at their 
 
l66 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 roots, under the name of oak truffles. M. de 
 Gasparin visited and reported upon one of these 
 truffle grounds. " Encouraged," he says, " by the high 
 price of truffles, the proprietor of a somewhat 
 stubborn soil determined to convert it into a truffle 
 ground. The land was sown with the acorns of the 
 common oak and of the evergreen oak. In the 
 fourth year three truffles were found, and in about 
 four years more upwards of thirty pounds were 
 collected." When he visited the plantation upwards 
 of two pounds of truffles were gathered in a very poor 
 part of the plantation within an hour. All the 
 truffles were taken at the base of the evergreen oaks, 
 but other plantations in Vaucleuse produce them at 
 the foot of the common oak. It has been remarked 
 that the truffles produced about the roots of the 
 common oak are larger and more irregular in form 
 than those of the evergreen oak, which are nearly 
 always spherical. 
 
 The truffles are gathered at two periods of the 
 year. In May white truffles are found which never 
 blacken, and have no odour; these are dried, and 
 sold for seasoning. The black truffles are dug up 
 a month before, and a month after Christmas, when 
 they have become hard and acquired all their per- 
 fume. 
 
 The English truffle is called Tuber astivum, and 
 one of its peculiarities is that the large spores, which 
 are oval, and nearly black, have an outer transparent 
 
TRUFFLES. l6j 
 
 coat which is divided into deep pentagonal cells, like 
 honeycomb. The French truffle, on the contrary 
 ( Tuber melanosporuni), has brown oval spores covered 
 with rigid spines. Any fragment of either species 
 may at any time be determined by the microscope, 
 so that it can always be decided whether the truffle 
 be the English or the French species. Although the 
 latter have a rather disagreeable odour, the flavour is 
 said to be so much superior that the French has 
 superseded the English truffle in our own markets. 
 The French truffle above alluded to is the Perigord 
 truffle. 
 
 Of all British mycologists the one who paid most 
 attention to, and was the greatest authority upon 
 truffles, was the late Mr C. E. Broome, and from 
 a communication of his we have gleaned the following 
 notes. Four species are named as exclusively in use 
 in France. Tuber melanosporum, T. brumale, T. 
 aestivum, and T. mesentericum, of which two, or per- 
 haps three, occur in Great Britain. Tuber aestivum 
 is apparently the only species to be met with in 
 a recent state in our shops. T. mesentericum may at 
 times occur, but it has not yet been noticed there. 
 T. brumale has hitherto been found in England of 
 too small a size to be worth sending to market. In 
 Italy there are other kinds, one of which, T. mag- 
 natum, commands a higher price than any other ; and 
 in the southern parts of Italy, Sicily, Syria, and Africa, 
 
1 68 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 another species, Terfezia leonis, is of common use as 
 an article of food. 
 
 The soils in which edible truffles are found in 
 France are always calcareous, or calcareous clays. 
 T. mesentericum occurs, however, in ferruginous sands, 
 as is also the case with another species, Hydnotrya 
 Tulasnei, which, or a closely allied kind, is largely 
 eaten in Bohemia, under the name of Czerwena 
 Tartoffle. 
 
 Some persons have supposed that these fungi are 
 parasitic on the roots of trees. This the Tulasnes 
 deny, and so also does Mr Broome. Some trees appear, 
 however, to be more favourable to the production of 
 truffles than others. Oak and hornbeam are especially 
 mentioned, but, besides these, chestnut, birch, box, and 
 hazel are alluded to. Old truffle hunters in this 
 country usually obtained them chiefly under beech, 
 and in mixed plantations of fir and beech. It would 
 seem that three or four months suffice for their de- 
 velopment. They are said to be about as large as 
 grains of millet in the beginning of October, and 
 must acquire their full size before the end of 
 December. 
 
 Many attempts have been made to subject these 
 fungi to a regular system of culture, but hitherto 
 almost without success. Borch and Bornholz state 
 that a compost was prepared of pure mould and 
 vegetable soil, mixed with dry leaves and sawdust, 
 in which, when properly moistened, mature truffles 
 
TRUFFLES. 1 69 
 
 were placed in winter, either whole or in fragments, 
 and that after the lapse of some time small truffles 
 were found in the compost. The most successful plan 
 consisted in sowing acorns over a considerable extent 
 of land of a calcareous nature, and when the young 
 oaks had attained the age of ten or twelve years, 
 truffles were found in the intervals between the trees. 
 This process was carried on in the neighbourhood of 
 Loudun, where truffle beds had formerly existed, but 
 where they had long ceased to be productive. In 
 this case no attempt was made to produce truffles by 
 placing ripe specimens in the earth, but they sprang 
 up of themselves, from spores probably contained in 
 the soil. The young trees were left rather wide apart 
 and were cut for the first time about the twelfth year 
 from the sowing, and afterwards at intervals of from 
 seven to nine years. Truffles were thus obtained for 
 a period of from twenty-five to thirty years, after 
 which the plantations ceased to be productive, owing, 
 it was said, to the ground being too much shaded by 
 the branches of the young trees, a remedy for which 
 might have been found by thinning out the trees ; 
 but this would not be adopted till all the barren tracts 
 had been planted. 
 
 The Messrs Tulasne think that truffle cultivation in 
 gardens can never be so successful as this so called 
 indirect culture, but they think that a satisfactory 
 result might be obtained in suitable soils by planting 
 fragments of mature truffles in wooded localities, 
 
I70 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 taking care that the other conditions of the spots 
 selected should be analogous to those of the regular 
 truffle grounds ; and they recommended a judicious 
 thinning of the trees and clearing the surface from 
 brushwood, &c, which prevents at once the bene- 
 ficial effects of rain and of the direct sun's rays. 
 It is added that this species of industry has added 
 much to the value of certain districts of Loudun and 
 Civray, which were previously comparatively worth- 
 less, and has enriched many of the proprietors who 
 now make periodical sowings of acorns, thus bringing 
 in a certain portion of wood as truffle grounds each 
 year. 
 
 Mr Broome was informed' by one of the truffle 
 hunters that whenever a plantation of beech, or beech 
 and fir, was made on the chalk districts of Salisbury 
 Plain, after the lapse of a few years truffles were pro- 
 duced, and that these plantations continued pro- 
 ductive for a period of from ten to fifteen years, after 
 which they ceased to be so. 
 
 Should horticulturists be tempted to try their skill 
 in the artificial production of these fungi, they should 
 bear in mind the conditions most suitable to their 
 nature. They might succeed, for instance, in produc- 
 ing them in filbert-plantations, or in gardens thickly 
 set with fruit trees ; and they should plant mature 
 specimens in well trenched ground, on a calcareous 
 substratum, and be careful not to stir the soil to any 
 depth till the autumn or winter of the following year, 
 
TRUFFLES. I 7 1 
 
 in order not to disturb the mycelium ; and it would 
 be well perhaps, in case they find a successful result, 
 not to take too largely of the crop the first year or 
 two, but to give them time to establish themselves 
 thoroughly in the locality. It would seem, however, 
 that when once established, deep stirrings of the soil 
 would tend rather to encourage than to check their 
 increase, as giving the mycelium a lighter soil in 
 which to vegetate, and preventing the growth of roots 
 of surrounding trees, &c. 
 
 Imported truffles, in addition to those which are 
 received in the fresh state, are either in dried slices, 
 which are in least esteem, or the whole or segments 
 of the fresh truffles preserved in oil, .and sold in 
 bottles. 
 
 A spiny spored truffle is also recorded as British 
 {Tuber brumale), and it is found in some parts of 
 France, but does not appear to be held in great 
 esteem. In England it only makes its appearance 
 occasionally, and as a rarity. 
 
 The red truffle of Bath (Melanogaster variegatus) 
 is almost traditional as a truffle substitute. It is said 
 that formerly it was sold as a truffle in the markets 
 of Bath, but we can find no trace of it in such a 
 capacity now. It is still a British species, and al- 
 though it is a subterranean species, it is not a true 
 truffle. The spores in truffles are produced within 
 broad membranous sacs or asci, and are therefore 
 what is termed ascigerous, and allies of the great 
 
172 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 group of Sphceria. The red truffle has naked spores, 
 produced in cavities of the fungus, free, and not en- 
 closed in asci. These latter are therefore allied to 
 the puff balls, and are in fact subterranean puff balls. 
 They are of a brownish colour, irregularly globose, 
 small and smooth, found usually in the ground at the 
 foot of beeches, in the south of England. The naked 
 spores are small and dark coloured. No one in this 
 generation appears to have any knowledge of the 
 Melanogaster, either as a " red truffle " or as an 
 esculent. 
 
 Truffles are such an old and aristocratic delicacy 
 that it must be expected to learn that the methods of 
 preparing them for the table are exceedingly 
 numerous. The Rev. M. J. Berkeley used to affirm 
 that the very best plan, according to his experience, 
 was to bury the entire truffle in hot wood ashes, on 
 an old fashioned hearth, and roast them thoroughly, 
 When ready for the table they could be divested of 
 their skins and all the ashes adhering to them. But 
 there are far more elaborate methods, as we shall 
 presently show. 
 
 For a ragout the tubers should be well washed, and 
 afterwards soaked in oil, then cut in slices about a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness, place in a stewpan, 
 with oil or butter, salt, pepper, and a little white wine. 
 When cooked bind the whole together with the yolk 
 of eggs. 
 
 Prepared after the Italian manner, middle-sized 
 
HORN OF PLENTY. I 73 
 
 truffles are selected, cut in fine slices, and placed in a 
 stewpan with oil, salt, pepper, parsley, shallots, and 
 chopped garlic. Let them cook gently over a slow 
 fire, and serve with the juice of lemon. 
 
 The Piedmontese method varies in soaking them 
 first in oil, then slice them thin, and put them in a 
 stewpan with salt, oil, and pepper, grating over them 
 some Parmesan cheese ; then the stewpan should be 
 placed over the hot cinders for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 Other and simpler methods have also been 
 recommended — such as wrapping each truffle in 
 buttered paper, and cooking them by steam. Also 
 take the truffles when cleaned and sprinkle them with 
 salt and pepper, then wrap each in several folds of 
 paper, garnished with rashers of bacon. They should 
 be cooked a full hour, then denuded of their paper 
 envelope, wiped, and served hot. 
 
 XXV.— HORN OF PLENTY. 
 
 ANOTHER prejudice was killed when we first essayed 
 to cook and eat that rather unpromising looking 
 fungus which we call the " Horn of Plenty." In 
 appearance it is not unlike the conventional figure of 
 the Cornucopia drawn in books, and although for 
 many years acquainted with it, having flattened and 
 dried it scores of times, it never occurred to us to eat 
 
I 74 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 it, until a suggestion of its being edible met our eyes 
 in a foreign book. Up to then we should have thought 
 as much of stewing our slippers as Craterellus cornu- 
 copioides. When dried it resembles strips of " upper 
 leather," and, at its best, scarce more inviting than the 
 thumb of a driving glove. Appearances in this case 
 were thoroughly deceptive, and we hasten to make 
 amends. 
 
 This fungus is plentiful on the ground in autumn, 
 in Epping Forest and the New Forest, but its 
 structure and scientific position is wholly different 
 from any others which find a place in this volume. 
 There are no gills, or pores, or spines, and the surface 
 which bears the spores is almost smooth. However, 
 let us attempt its description. In shape it is a long 
 inverted cone, or trumpet, about three inches high, 
 two or three, or more, generally growing together, 
 with the thin end in the ground. At the top it is 
 about two inches broad, and hollow down to the 
 bottom, the substance not being thicker than' the 
 " upper leather " of a boot. The top edge is bent 
 over all round something like the end of a trumpet, 
 only more so, but it is flexuous, and lobed or split. 
 In colour the exposed surface at the mouth, which is 
 the inner surface of the horn, is a dingy brown, with 
 darker streaks. Outside it is almost black, with 
 a frosty bloom over it, like the " bloom " on a fresh 
 plum. This is the surface which bears the spores ; it 
 is not quite even, but with little shallow depressions, 
 
HORN OF PLENTY. I 75 
 
 especially in the upper part. Very gradually attenu- 
 ated downwards, it is scarcely a quarter of an inch 
 broad at the base, seldom quite straight, but curved 
 and bent, sometimes distorted. The fanciful might 
 call them " fairy trumpets," or " horns of plenty " for 
 the good folk. Growing on the ground, almost buried 
 in grass or dead leaves, they are hardly conspicuous, 
 but as a great number are usually found growing 
 together, it is not difficult, when once found, to secure 
 sufficient for a dish. There is no odour that is 
 appreciable, and what the taste may be in the fresh 
 state we have never ascertained. 
 
 Hitherto we have never departed from our first 
 method of cooking, which was simple and satisfac- 
 tory. The " horns " were sliced down the middle 
 from top to bottom, and carefully washed. On 
 account of their shape this preliminary is essential, 
 because the form favours the deposit of sand and 
 other substances at the bottom of the tube, and 
 because it obviates the risk of snail, slug, or earwig 
 making it a hiding-place. When washed and dried, 
 the pieces are placed in a stewpan with salt and 
 pepper, and a little water, or, better still, gravy or 
 stock, but we have been content with water, then 
 stewed gently till soft, thickened with a little flour, 
 or with the addition of chopped parsley, if desirable, 
 and served. The aroma is quite mushroomy during 
 the process, and the result so satisfactory that we 
 have never missed an opportunity of gathering them 
 
I 76 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 since. An inveterate fungus eater, who was with us 
 on one occasion when we collected a supply, took the 
 hint for himself and imitated at a distance, with what 
 success may be gathered from the fact that now he 
 thinks nothing of a walk of six or eight miles with 
 the prospect before him of a dish of Craterellus. 
 
 XXVI.— JEW'S EARS. 
 
 This name has been applied to several different 
 fungi having some fancied resemblance to ears. \k\ 
 some parts of England the large "ground cups" or 
 Pezizce, and particularly. Peziza venosa, are called 
 Jew's ear, but the one which has the sanction of age 
 and universality is the Hirneola, the Jew's ear of elder 
 stumps not uncommon in this country. It has never 
 been regarded here as an edible fungus, but, in some 
 parts of the world, it has no small reputation in that 
 sense. The scientific name is Hirneola auricula- 
 Judace, which is written down here to show that the 
 cognomen of Jew's ear is present even in the botani- 
 cal name, and is corroboration of its accurate use in 
 connection with the Hirneola. It is rather a gelatin- 
 ous, flabby-looking, thin, expanded cup, or saucer- 
 like fungus of a brownish colour when fresh, smooth 
 in the inside and veined or plaited, so as to have 
 some resemblance to a human ear. Outside it is 
 
JEWS EARS. 177 
 
 shortly velvety and greyish olive. In size it varies 
 considerably from one to three inches, and is attached 
 by a. point at the back, out of the centre, often nearly 
 on one side. When dry it becomes hard and horny, 
 shrinking considerably in the process. In past times 
 it had its medicinal uses, and, on that account, is 
 included in most of the old herbals, but the reputation 
 of all virtue has left it long ago, and now that all its 
 occupation is gone, it is regarded simply as a curi- 
 osity. Not so, however, in South-Eastern Asia 
 where it still finds favour for the compounding of 
 those gelatinous dishes of which the Chinese are so 
 fond. Not only is it largely imported, with other 
 species, but one of these is artificially cultivated to 
 supply the demand. 
 
 " Mu-esh " is found spontaneously growing on the 
 bark of wild cherry in Central China. It is a species 
 of Jew's ear (Hirneola folytricka), and is also 
 cultivated at Yun-Yang, whence it is exported to all 
 parts of China, being esteemed as an article of 
 food. It is of great commercial importance, the 
 quantity annually produced being very large. Small 
 trees of the China oak (Quercus sinensis) are cut 
 down and cut into poles about six to ten feet long, 
 and three to six inches in diameter, and left to rot on 
 the ground for a year. In the following spring, when 
 the wood has become more or less rotten, the poles 
 are erected into shed-like structures, and these stud 
 the sides of the hills in places. The " mu-esh " comes 
 
 M 
 
178 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 spontaneously on the bark, and in about two years 
 has grown all over it. After two years the poles 
 become quite rotten and no more mu-esh is pro- 
 duced. 
 
 The original source of the Pacific Jew's ear was 
 the small islands of the Pacific and New Zealand, but 
 it is to be found in Australia, New Guinea, and many 
 other places. The seat of the trade is New Zealand, 
 for which the only market is China. It is largely 
 used by the Chinese in soups with farinaceous seeds, 
 and also as a medicine, being highly esteemed. The 
 Chinese have long been in the habit of using another 
 species of this same genus that is indigenous in North 
 China, and also in importing what has been called 
 another species, but really appears to be the 
 same, from other Isles of the Pacific, so that the use 
 of this kind of fungus as an article of food is not new 
 to them. 
 
 At first, and for a considerable time, the New 
 Zealand fungus was exported only in small quantities. 
 The demand rapidly increasing, and the article 
 plentiful, and obtained at little cost, save the labour 
 of gathering and drying it, its export rapidly 
 increased. 
 
 The price paid to collectors for it was originally 
 small, only one penny per pound, at which figure it 
 remained for some time. It became nominally 
 two pence half penny in some places, which sum is 
 often paid in barter. It is said to be sold in China at 
 
JEWS EARS. 179 
 
 the shops after the rate of tenpence per pound, or 
 more, retail. The declared value in the customs 
 returns has ranged from £33 to £53 per ton, which, 
 doubtless, is under the real value. 
 
 From 1872 to 1883, or during twelve years, the 
 exports from New Zealand were no less than 1858 
 tons, valued at £79,752, and in one year, that of 1882, 
 the declared value of the exports was £15,581. 
 
 A recent chemical analysis of this fungus in its air- 
 dried condition has shown that it is singularly poor in 
 albuminoid, or muscle-forming substances, and differs 
 remarkably in this respect from the numerous edible 
 fungi previously examined. The chief constituent of 
 what are called the digestible carbohydrates (70 per 
 cent, of which are present) is a gum-like body allied to 
 bassorin. It swells up greatly in water, and is soluble 
 in dilute warm solutions of caustic alkalis. Its solu- 
 tions gelatinize in cooling. This is the mucilaginous 
 property for which it may be assumed that it is 
 chiefly valued, and which always has a fascination 
 with the Chinese. 
 
 A parcel of the dried fungus was sent to the 
 International Exhibition of 1862 from Singapore, as 
 an article of food, but without any definite information. 
 It was the European, and not the Australasian 
 species, but whence derived it is impossible to say ; 
 doubtless it had been imported into Singapore for 
 sale to the Chinese. 
 
 The other "Jew's ears," above alluded to, known as 
 
l8o BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 such locally, and with little authority, are of very 
 different structure, however similar they may be in 
 appearance. But it requires a strong imagination to 
 assimilate the appearances. The typical form of the 
 species of Peziza is that of a cup, so that these are 
 sometimes called " Earth Cups " if they are in the 
 habit of growing on the ground. It is the inner sur- 
 face of these cups which is fertile and bears the 
 spores, enclosed in long, delicate cylindrical tubes or 
 sacs, termed asci, each of which contains normally 
 eight spores. It is essential to point out this differ- 
 ence in structure, which is more like that of the 
 morels, than that of either the agarics or even the 
 veritable Jew's ears. 
 
 The most promising of these cups, from a gastro- 
 nomic point of view, is the "' veined cup " {Peziza 
 venosd) which has a strong and rather nitrous odour 
 as it grows old, or begins to dry ; the cups themselves 
 are about two inches in diameter, whitish and mealy 
 on the outside and veined or puckered at the base, 
 the inner surface is of a dark, rather purplish brown. 
 When mature they expand and flatten out a little, 
 but split from the edge downwards in doing so, and 
 then the under surface is but little seen. The thick- 
 ness of the cup is not greater than the length of one 
 of these printing letters, so that an entire cup is not 
 more than a mouthful, and as the species is not par- 
 ticularly common, it has not much merit as a food 
 product. The disadvantage in nearly all the species 
 
jew's ears. 181 
 
 of Peziza is r that they are comparatively small, taking 
 the thickness of the flesh into account, and would 
 scarcely have encouraged us to include them in this 
 work at all, except in connection with the Hirneola, 
 and then perhaps rather as " curiosities of food " than 
 as likely to become staple articles. 
 
 The " bladdery cups " {Peziza vesiculosa) are more 
 generally common on the ground, rich soil, rubbish, 
 and manure heaps. The cup is at first globose, dirty 
 white, about an inch across or more, and granularly 
 mealy, then it has a small jagged opening, and at 
 length it is expanded like a cup, but the edge is 
 usually a little turned in, until it is quite old. When 
 fully opened it will attain two or three inches, and 
 the interior is smooth pale brown. This is a widely 
 dispersed species, being found all over Europe, in 
 North America, and in Australia and New Zealand. 
 In comparison with the last species we consider this 
 inferior for eating, and taking into account the 
 trouble of collecting and cleaning, it is hardly worth 
 the pains. We have had this sent to us also under 
 the name of Jew's ears, which probably is locally 
 applied indiscriminately to any ear-shaped fungus. 
 
 The orange cups {Peziza aurantia) is widely known, 
 because of the bright orange colour of the inside of 
 the cups, so that it is a most beautiful and con- 
 spicuous object. The cups are often three inches, or 
 more, when fully expanded, and a number of them 
 will be often found growing together in damp places. 
 
I 82 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 It is whitish on the outside, and thinner in substance 
 than the " bladdery cups," certainly more attractive. 
 This, again, is found all over Europe, in India, across 
 to the United States, and in the southern hemisphere. 
 At times sufficient may be collected for a good dish, 
 and we have seen them placed as decorations on the 
 dinner table instead of flowers, with a very pretty 
 effect. Some may think the result more satisfactory 
 than cooking and eating them. In the latter condi- 
 tion they are delicate, but without much flavour. 
 
 There are several other kinds of " cups " which 
 could be eaten, and indeed we doubt if any of the 
 species are unwholesome. Not one has yet had the 
 reputation of being poisonous, or even suspicious or 
 disagreeable. They usually flourish in the autumn, 
 when agarics are plentiful, and no one would be at 
 the trouble of hunting all day for a few cups of 
 Peziza, when the basket could be filled with agarics 
 in half an hour. 
 
 Whenever it has been our fortune to try them, 
 chiefly out of curiosity, their preparation has been 
 confined to simple stewing; but unless carefully 
 washed beforehand, they are liable to grittiness, 
 which is rather unpleasant to most people. 
 
THE RUSSULES. 183 
 
 XXVII.— THE RUSSULES. 
 
 It is very difficult to describe the russules with 
 sufficient precision to enable anyone who is not a 
 mycologist to distinguish them well enough to eat 
 them. Those who are well acquainted with fungi, 
 and have plates to guide them, will sometimes 
 hesitate, and when the question is one of food or 
 poison, there should be no hesitation. There are 
 bright red russules which will produce serious 
 internal disturbance, and induce dangerous symp- 
 toms, even if nothing more, and there are others of 
 the same colour which are recommended as edible. 
 The differences are those which a practised eye would 
 detect, but not such as an ordinary fungus eater 
 would recognize ; hence very little can be attempted 
 with them in a work of this kind, which is designed 
 for general use. 
 
 It may be premised that' in the true agarics the 
 long gills traversing the under side of the cap from 
 the stem to the circumference alternate with shorter 
 ones placed between them, whereas in the russules 
 there are, in most cases, only long gills radiating from 
 the stem, without short ones proceeding from the 
 margin inwards, and alternating with them, or, if 
 short gills are present, they join the long gills, or 
 
184 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 grow to them at their inner extremity. This seems 
 in itself a minute and technical distinction, but 
 practically it produces a recognizable difference of 
 appearance in the gills. Another feature in the 
 russules is that they never possess a collar, or ring, 
 round the stem, and the latter is soft, without any 
 rigid outside coating analogous to bark. Finally, the 
 spores are globose, mostly rough, and either white or 
 pale ochre. Experience may soon enable a person to 
 distinguish between a russule and an agaric, but a 
 mere verbal description will hardly accomplish the 
 feat. 
 
 In despite of the initial difficulty, we must attempt 
 some account of two or three species, even at the risk 
 of appealing only to those who are able to distinguish 
 a russule at once. One of the most commendable 
 species is the sea-green russule {Russula virescens) 
 which generally grows beside paths in woods in the 
 summer or early autumn, but is nowhere common. 
 The cap is at first convex, with the margin curved 
 inwards, from three to four inches in diameter. The 
 cuticle is whitish, covered with an opaque coating 
 resembling meal, which gradually cracks and breaks 
 up, as the cap expands, into a covering of irregular 
 small angular spots or patches, the thickness of which 
 varies according to the thickness of the original 
 mealy coating ; the cracks between the spots show 
 the white cuticle, but the little patches are sea-green 
 or yellowish green, or ochre, communicating to the 
 
THE RUSSULES. 185 
 
 cap a mealy or mouldy appearance. The stem is 
 short and thick, sometimes contorted by its efforts to 
 push up the cap through a resisting soil, fleshy but 
 fragile and white. The gills are white, very brittle, 
 but usually simple, with here and there one which 
 is forked towards the outer extremity. This is a 
 very distinct fungus, easy of recognition, and gastro- 
 nomically one of the best. The Italians recommend 
 cooking it on the gridiron, but Dr Badham says that 
 the peasants about Milan are in the habit of putting 
 it over wood embers to toast, eating it afterwards 
 with a little salt, in which way it has a savoury smell 
 and a taste like that of a crab. Although it is said 
 to dry well, it is not one of the best of species for 
 that purpose. With no perceptible odour when fresh, 
 it acquires one in drying, which we confess is rather 
 strong, but we fail to recognize in it any resemblance 
 to salt meat. 
 
 Another mild and agreeable. species is the pinkish 
 russule (Russula vescd) which has a firm convex cap, 
 soon flattened and at length depressed, 'often veined 
 and streaked. The colour varies, as it does in most 
 of the species, in intensity, but it is generally of a 
 fleshy pink, darkened in the centre, and occasionally 
 suffused with a flush of lilac. The diameter is 
 commonly about three inches, with a firm, solid stem, 
 rather peculiarly reticulated and normally white, 
 occasionally dashed or patched with pink. The gills 
 are white, many of them forked, rather close to- 
 
lS6 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 gether, reaching to,-and touching the stem. It occurs 
 mostly in open places in woods. One feature in this 
 russule is the firmness of the cap and stem, and 
 another the peculiar pink of the cap, which is darkest, 
 or rather is replaced by a darker colour in the centre, 
 spreading in streaks all around. 
 
 The peacock russule {Russula cyanoxanthd) is in 
 many respects similar to the last, but the cap is 
 shaded with light blue, or peacock blue, and pink or 
 yellow. It might almost be called rainbow russule, 
 with its variable prismatic colouration. In size it is 
 almost the same as the foregoing, but there is more 
 blue or purple in the colour, and the disc or centre of 
 the cap grows pale and yellowish. The stem is quite 
 smooth, even, and white, about two or three inches 
 long ; the gills are broad and rounded behind, many 
 of them forked. The whole substance, and especially 
 the stem, is not so firm as in R. vesca. The flesh is 
 white beneath the separable cuticle, whereas in that 
 species it is reddish. The margin of the cap in both 
 species is even, that is, without parallel lines. There 
 is great resemblance between them as esculents, and 
 they grow in similar localities. Perhaps it would be 
 rather difficult for the novice to distinguish one from 
 the other. 
 
 It would be useless to add other species less easy 
 of recognition, but equally wholesome, amongst those 
 which have white gills and spores. But there are 
 some in which the gills are more or less yellow, 
 
THE RUSSULES. 1 87 
 
 equally good, two of which may be added, and if 
 confounded with each other no harm will be done. 
 The common russule (Russula Integra) is found in 
 woods throughout summer and autumn. It is mild 
 to the taste, but one of the most variable' in colour. 
 The cap is commonly ruddy, sometimes shaded with 
 blue or brown or olive. The cap is fleshy and 
 convex, then becoming flattened and depressed, 
 rather fragile when mature, and covered with a viscid 
 cuticle, which soon loses colour. The margin is 
 indented all round with parallel depressed lines or 
 shallow furrows, with small tubercles in the space 
 between them, but chiefly when in the mature condi- 
 tion. The cap is three or four inches broad, and 
 the flesh white. The stem is commonly stout, short 
 at first, then club shaped, or swollen in the middle, 
 white and spongy. The gills are nearly free from 
 the stem^ very broad, not crowded, connected by 
 veins at the base, at first whitish, then yellowish, 
 powdered with the ochraceous spores. 
 
 The other species [Russula alutaced) is chiefly 
 found in beech woods, and is about the same size 
 as the foregoing ; the cap is red or dark purple, 
 becoming pale, especially in the centre, and is also 
 covered with a viscid cuticle. The stem is stout and 
 solid, about two inches long, and equal throughout, 
 even and white, often variegated with red. The gills 
 are at first free from the stem, thick, and very broad, 
 connected by veins at the base, all of them being 
 
I 88 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 equal in length, at first pale yellow, then bright ochre 
 but not powdery with the spores. Taste mild and 
 pleasant, with a tendency to become acrid when old. 
 
 Except in one or two species the russules are 
 deficient in any perceptible odour ; as a rule the gills 
 are tender and fragile, and the stem spongy. Most 
 of them are rather sticky on the cap when moist, and 
 they are not expanded long before they begin to 
 decay. As esculents we have never regarded them 
 with any especial favour, if we except the sea-green 
 russule, and certainly there is nothing to induce a 
 beginner in the art of fungus hunting to risk a 
 mistake. Dr Badham neverthless says that one of 
 the species (apparently the one called by us peacock 
 russule) is an excellent fungus, and he adds that 
 Roques introduced it into the houses of many of his 
 friends, some of whom preferred it to the common 
 mushroom, " an opinion shared by several of our own 
 friends on this side the Channel." 
 
 The russules are tender fungi and require very 
 little cooking, but we do not recommend stewing, 
 as they are rather watery, and not strong in 
 flavour. Baking in a covered dish with the usual con- 
 diments is the only method we have resorted to, 
 and the best we can suggest. Finally, we caution 
 strongly against experiments with any of the bright 
 scarlet or crimson coloured species, unless deter- 
 mined to be harmless by a competent authority. 
 
STUMP MUSHROOMS. 1 89 
 
 XXVIIL— STUMP MUSHROOMS. 
 
 The most common and the most universally eaten on 
 the Continent of all the stump mushrooms is the one 
 which has no favour in this country. In Vienna it is 
 called the stump mushroom and is exposed for sale 
 everywhere. It is always in demand, and yet we con- 
 sider it tough, bitter, and not at all pleasant. Perhaps 
 it is because we use it differently, for there they only 
 employ it as a kind of condiment, adding a little to all 
 their soups, stews, and made dishes. So common is 
 this fungus with us in the autumn that Agaricus melleus 
 is a bye-word and a nuisance. If we could only eat 
 it and recommend it, perhaps we should reduce the 
 number perceptibly, but now it turns up everywhere. 
 No fungus is perhaps more variable in appearance, and 
 it takes a long time to be sure of it under its many 
 phases. It may be premised that it is more or less 
 confined to rotten stumps, and even when it seems to 
 be growing out of the grass it may be concluded that 
 there is some bit of rotten wood buried beneath 
 where it springs. As a rule it forms dense clusters, 
 almost covering the old stump from which it grows. 
 The cap is of a honey-coloured brown, about two 
 inches across, sometimes twice as large, occasionally 
 larger, with a darker centre, more or less scaly or 
 fibrous. The stem is rather long, it may be six 
 
1 90 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 inches, paler than the cap and fibrous, with a large 
 spreading ring near the top. The gills are dirty 
 white, and soon discoloured and stained or spotted 
 with dull red. The spores are white, and so profuse 
 that grass, wood, dead leaves, or whatever lies beneath 
 the fungus soon become covered with a coating of the 
 snow-white spores. This is a feature which cannot 
 fail to be observed. The whole of the fungus is of a 
 rather dry consistence, not viscid, but sometimes so 
 soaked with moisture after rain, that it is scarcely 
 distinguishable. And this is the ubiquitous melleus, 
 the honey-coloured stump mushroom, common every- 
 where, and almost everywhere in profusion, but no 
 one holds it in respect. In this instance " familiarity 
 breeds contempt ; " even slugs and maggots do not 
 appear to hold it in much esteem. All books on 
 edible fungi that have been written include this 
 species, but it would not have found a place here if 
 such had not been its antecedents, for, although per- 
 fectly harmless, it is not such a dainty morsel as one 
 would recommend to his friends. One of our fungus 
 eating coadjutors always speaks of it as an "awful 
 fraud," and therefore we may be excused for omitting 
 any instructions in its preparation for the table. 
 
 Although the " melleus " is not to our liking, 
 there is another species, confined apparently to old 
 beech trees and stumps, for which we have better words 
 to write. The slimy beech caps (Agaricus mucidus) 
 are usually plentiful wherever there are old beeches, 
 
STUMP MUSHROOMS. 191 
 
 but not elsewhere. They spring in tufts from . the 
 bark, and being of an ivory whiteness when the slime 
 is washed away, are conspicuous objects. The cap is 
 usually one or two inches in diameter, but we have 
 seen specimens five or six inches. It is entirely 
 covered, when growing, with a coat of slime, and then 
 is often of a smoky colour, but in Epping Forest and 
 Burnham beeches it is more often ivory white. The 
 stem is rather long and slender, with a broad ring in 
 the upper portion, and usually thickened at the base. 
 The gills are very broad and distant apart ; these and 
 of course the spores also are quite white. The most 
 remarkable feature in this species is the covering of 
 slime, like diluted gelatine, with which the entire 
 fungus is invested, and on this account many persons 
 are prejudiced against it, notwithstanding its elegant 
 and graceful form. Having once tasted it, properly 
 cooked, all such prejudice vanishes. 
 
 The flesh of the cap is thin, and the whole fungus 
 small, but it is a delicacy not to be despised. The 
 only method we have adopted with them is to cut off 
 the stems, and place the caps on sippets of toast, 
 with a little pepper and salt, and a small piece of 
 butter on each, cover with an inverted basin, and 
 cook them for ten minutes in an oven. When ready 
 they are very tender and digestible, and of delicate 
 flavour. Preferable to some palates to the stronger 
 and more pronounced flavour of the common mush- 
 room. 
 
192 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 Another stump mushroom is found in clusters 
 about the base of old trees and stumps with a coarser 
 appearance and of a larger size. It is uniformly of a 
 reddish brown colour, at times and especialty when 
 saturated with moisture as dark as a chestnut. The 
 usual diameter of the cap is two or three inches, 
 smooth, and often cracking when dry. The stem is 
 long and spindle-shaped, six or eight inches, tapering 
 very much at the base, fluted, twisted, and contorted 
 in a variety of ways. The gills are broad and whitish 
 at first, but soon become spotted, and at length almost 
 of the colour of the pileus, but the spores are white. 
 It is known as the spindle-stemmed mushroom 
 {Agaricus fusipes), and is not by any means un- 
 common in the late autumn until after the frosts have 
 set in. No one, be he ever such an enthusiast, would 
 claim for this agaric an attractive or pleasing appear- 
 ance, and yet it has long had a reputation as an 
 esculent. As for ourselves, we have preferred giving 
 the precedence to other species which are found at' 
 the same period of the year, and, generally, it is our 
 impression that it is much more neglected than it 
 would otherwise be if it had not so many rivals. Dr 
 Badham calls it "an excellent fungus," and says it 
 may be stewed or dressed in the same manner as the 
 common mushroom, but the most approved method 
 is to select young specimens only, and pickle the caps 
 for winter use. A rough and ready method is, Cut 
 off the stems and wash the caps, so as to remove any 
 
THE SPARASSIS. 1 93 
 
 trace of sand, and lay them on a soft cloth to dry. 
 Put them when so prepared in wide mouthed bottles, 
 with a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of peppercorns, 
 and a teaspoonful of mustard seed in each. Then 
 cover with the strongest white pickling vinegar boiling 
 hot. When quite cold they should be closely corked 
 or tied down, but they will not keep for more than 
 three months. 
 
 XXIX.— THE SPARASSIS. 
 
 Amongst little known British fungi there are many 
 which are so small that the majority of the natives 
 might reasonably be excused for never having 
 observed them, or, even if pointed out to them, for 
 not manifesting any particular interest in them. It 
 can hardly be expected that those who are not 
 personally devoted to the study of fungi, or who are 
 not sufficiently advanced in their love of Nature to 
 take interest in all the manifestations of her variety and 
 power, should trouble themselves about some curious 
 fungus no larger than a pea, or even as minute as a 
 grain of mustard seed. But, when the. object in 
 question is as large as a man's head it becomes more 
 astonishing that it should be wholly unknown to the 
 average sportsman, or holiday maker, and that it has 
 
 N 
 
194 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 not acquired for itself even a popular name. Some 
 excuse may be made when the object is so exceedingly 
 rare as only to be seen a few times in the course of a 
 generation ; but when it is believed to make its 
 appearance almost annually, in some place or other, 
 not wholly unfrequented, there is more ground for 
 surprise. 
 
 The fungus now in question appeals not only to 
 the curious and the scientific, but also to the stomach 
 of the lover of good things, as much as would a fine 
 bunch of asparagus, and yet it is comparatively 
 unknown. Mr Worthington Smith records the 
 dimensions of a specimen found at the base of Scotch 
 firs in Kent a few years ago. It took two men to 
 carry the box in which it was packed, and the box 
 afterwards became a spacious rabbit hutch. The 
 sparassis was very compact, solid, and heavy, it 
 measured three feet and a half in circumference, stood 
 ten inches high above the ground, with a solid heavy 
 base of mycelium for six inches beneath the surface. 
 It was divided and carried by two persons to 
 Loughton, in two fish baskets, one basket being 
 sufficiently heavy for one person to carry with con- 
 venience. This was no microscopical object which 
 could be readily overlooked. During one day of a 
 foray in Hampshire two or three specimens were 
 found the size of a child's head, but these were 
 considered small. Twice in one season we have^et 
 with them nine inches in diameter. 
 
THE SPARASSIS. 195 
 
 Supposing that these details may have aroused 
 sufficient interest to desire further information, 
 we will attempt a description of its appearance. 
 The general outline of form is usually more 
 or less globose, and the colour either a creamy 
 white or a pale ruddy yellow, not of the lemon 
 yellow tint, but ochraceous yellow, seeming almost 
 white when growing on the ground. The base 
 consists of a thick rooting stem, the greater part sunk 
 in the ground, arising from a profusion of threadlike 
 mycelium. Upwards the stem is many times divided 
 into numerous branches, which are not visible from 
 the outside. The outer aspect is almost brainlike, 
 consisting of flat laminae, curled and folded, intricately 
 combined, and twisted, so as to form a dense mass of 
 sinuous folds or plates, the upper portion producing 
 spores on all sides. In decay the whole fungus 
 softens, becomes brownish, and at length settles into 
 a pulpy mass. 
 
 The sparassis is either found at the base of trees 
 or on heaths, amongst bracken and heather, some- 
 thing like a large cauliflower denuded of its leaves, 
 and lying upon the ground, no stem being visible. 
 It is often partially concealed, but it seems strange 
 that an object so imposing should so seldom be found 
 except by fungus hunters, and not at all until within 
 the last half of this century. 
 
 Of its esculent qualities the accounts are rather 
 barren, except that they are of a high order, which 
 
I96 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 is surprising, since a single specimen is often sufficient 
 for several families. When raw the taste is pleasant, 
 reminding one of a fresh filbert ; when cooked, deli- 
 cate and mild, but scarcely awakening any remin- 
 iscences of ordinary mushrooms. 
 
 The only suggestions for cooking with which we 
 are acquainted are those given by Roques. The 
 specimens should first be well washed in warm water 
 to clear them from particles of sand or earth, and 
 then drained. Cut into a convenient size, the seg- 
 ments should be baked with butter, parsley, a little 
 eschalot or a fragment of garlic, and seasoned with 
 pepper and salt. When tender, cream and yolk of 
 eggs may be added. During the baking it should be 
 moistened occasionally with a few spoonfuls of broth 
 or gravy. In Austria it is simply fried with butter 
 and sweet herbs, and this primitive plan we have 
 followed for ourselves, whenever good fortune has 
 brought a specimen in our way. Some years since 
 we found one for two or three successive years at the 
 base of the same old tree in Caen Wood, Highgate, 
 and then it appeared no more. 
 
 In this connection we may allude to the tremellas, 
 which are not uncommon, but little sought after for 
 the table. Our own experience has been but small, 
 and that not very encouraging. The only species 
 which gave satisfaction was the large pale tremella, 
 which reminds one so strongly of sparassis. This 
 ( Tremella frmdosa), in masses from six to nine inches 
 
THE SPARASSIS. 197 
 
 in diameter, we have found on one or two occasions 
 on the decaying limbs of a tree, or at its base, but 
 only this one individual tree. The description given 
 above of the external appearance of the Sparassis 
 would apply equally well to this, except that the 
 stem is entirely absent, the colour of a pinkish yellow, 
 almost flesh-colour, and the texture much softer, and 
 more clammy to the touch. We have not seen it for 
 a quarter of a century, and have but a faint recollection 
 of our then experiences. All we remember was that 
 it was always cooked when found, and eaten by the 
 family with satisfaction, but in what manner it was 
 prepared for the table is now forgotten. 
 
 The unsatisfactory experiences relate to the com- 
 moner leafy tremella, constantly found on old 
 trunks and branches (Tremella foliaced). It is of 
 a smoky brown colour, cold, clammy, and shaky in 
 the hand, in tufts almost the size of the fist, almost 
 of a jelly-like consistence, and by no means inviting. 
 When stewed it resolves itself into a slimy mess 
 which would be acceptible to the Chinese, but not 
 in conformity with English tastes. It is perfectly 
 wholesome, and a little effort might perhaps convert 
 it into a respectable dish by some other process. 
 
 Another tremella is to be met with every year on 
 fallen branches and old trunks, which is recom- 
 mended as edible, but our experiences with the leafy 
 tremella encouraged no experiment. This {Tremella 
 mesenterica) is brain-like in its convolutions, gela- 
 
1 0,8 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 tinous in texture, averaging in size from that of a 
 walnut to an apple. It is of a very bright orange-red 
 colour, and sufficiently conspicuous, but without any 
 decided odour. As a specimen of a jelly-fungus it is 
 undoubtedly beautiful, but for the table we fear its 
 charms are ephemeral. 
 
 These gelatinous fungi approximate perhaps to a 
 vegetable gelatine, and some ingenious manipulator 
 might succeed in producing from them some imita- 
 tion of table jellies, but the quantity of raw material 
 to be procured is small, and we fear that such 
 energies would be wasted. Water enters so largely 
 into their composition that drying converts them 
 into little shrivelled, hard, horny fragments, like 
 chips of scorched leather. 
 
 XXX.— FAIRY CLUBS OR CLAVARIA. 
 
 The observant wanderer cannot but have seen 
 amongst the grass in parks and on lawns some 
 small white or yellow fungi of variable shape, from 
 the simple " fairy club " to the branched and clus- 
 tered "stag's horn." Commonly only two or three 
 inches in length, and not thicker than a knitting 
 needle, they are conspicuous only by their pure white- 
 ness, or the brilliancy of their golden yellow. Edible 
 
FAIRY CLUBS OR CLAVARIA. 1 99 
 
 they undoubtedly are, perhaps all of them, but so 
 small as to be of little esteem for the table. Some- 
 times they occur in such plenty that sufficient for a 
 dish may be collected, but it must be a labour of 
 love. The scientific name is Clavaria, which has been 
 freely translated as " fairy club," but only a few of 
 them have a club shape, most of the tufted species 
 being very much branched, after the manner of stag's 
 horns. One species only attains a considerable size 
 and preserves the club shape. Some call it the 
 " Hercules club," and it will attain six or seven inches 
 in length, with a diameter of an inch at the apex. 
 In colour it is of a pale yellowish red, almost a ruddy 
 flesh colour, of the tint sometimes called gilvous, 
 solid, and whitish within, growing singly amongst 
 grass ; attenuated gradually downwards, it resembles 
 the conventional form which is given in pictures and 
 statuary to the club of Hercules. But this Clavaria 
 pistillaris is not by any means a common fungus, and 
 the collector has to be content with the smaller 
 species. One of the most common in pastures and 
 on lawns is the branched Clavaria fastigiata, which is 
 at times so common that a foot can scarcely be set 
 on the ground without crushing it ; so delicate and 
 fragile as hardly to be disentangled from the grass 
 without breaking. 
 
 A snowy-white species, with the clubs simple and 
 undivided, grows in similar places, but is often rather 
 rare. This is Clavaria vermicularis, of which ten or 
 
200 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 twenty will form a tuft, and children in some places 
 call them " fairy candles." Much more attractive is 
 a densely tufted and branched species, which we 
 have always met with in woods, rising to three or 
 four inches in height, and of a beautiful amethystine 
 violet, hence it is called Clavaria amethystina. This 
 colour is not common amongst fungi, but there is a 
 variety of Agaricus laccatus which has a similar tint. 
 More imposing than all are well grown tufts of 
 Clavaria botrytes, sometimes forming a bunch as 
 large as a man's fist, with a very thick fleshy stem, as 
 much as one inch thick, which divides upwards into 
 innumerable branches, having the extreme tips 
 tinged with red, whilst the bulk of the fungus is of 
 a creamy white. This is a widely diffused fungus, 
 being found throughout Europe, into Asia, and is 
 not uncommon in Australia. If it were not for the 
 red tips it would resemble a cauliflower without the 
 green leaves, and is considered as good, if not better. 
 It would hardly avail much to give descriptions, in 
 writing, of all the edible species, since they would 
 be much more easily recognized from drawings, but 
 there is one other common white species which is 
 not unfrequent on hedge banks and grassy slopes. 
 A great number are found growing near each other, 
 but mostly singly, or one or two together. It is 
 peculiar from its irregular club shape and very short 
 wart-like branches and furrowed surface, which has 
 procured for it the name of Clavaria rugosa. It is 
 
MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 201 
 
 from two to three inches in length, tapering down- 
 wards to a very slender stem. 
 
 As articles of food none but the largest are worthy 
 of much consideration, except as curiosities. It re- 
 quires some effort to collect sufficient for a dish, and 
 when obtained and cooked in the most approved 
 fashion, there is no great compensation in delicacy of 
 flavour, aroma, or novelty of taste. Many agarics, 
 to be found with less trouble at the "same season, 
 would give greater satisfaction. There is, however, 
 one advantage which they possess, and no small one 
 with timid people, that they are absolutely safe. 
 
 XXXI.— MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 
 
 Ketchup, or catsup, for the name is written both 
 ways, is a sauce prepared from mushrooms, and was 
 at one time believed to be obtained exclusively from 
 the common mushroom and the meadow mushroom. 
 In rural districts, where ketchup making is an annual 
 autumnal event, the meadow mushroom is preferred 
 as more highly flavoured. The combination sold in 
 towns under the name of mushroom ketchup has in 
 some instances been demonstrated to have been made 
 without mushrooms at all. It is so easy to detect 
 spurious mushroom ketchup that it is surprising it 
 
2 20 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 should be attempted. The dark colour of genuine 
 ketchup is due to the dark spores of the mushroom, 
 held in solution, but unchanged in form or colour. 
 A drop of the fluid under the microscope can be 
 challenged instantly as to whether it is mushroom 
 ketchup or not. We need not enquire how the 
 spurious concoction is made, as we have only to deal 
 with the genuine. 
 
 It is an error to suppose that good ketchup can 
 only be made from the two mushrooms above named, 
 for we should add also the wood mushroom {Agaricus 
 sylvaticus), the two species of Coprinus or deliques- 
 cent mushrooms {Coprinus comatus and Coprinus atra- 
 mentarius), and the two species of viscid, Gomphidius 
 (Gomphidius glutinosus and Gomphidius viscidus). 
 The warted mushroom (Agaricus rubescens) and 
 even the common velvety mushroom {Agaricus 
 velutinus) may be added to other species. All these 
 are ketchup mushrooms of the first class, but the 
 mushroom gatherers collect almost anything that 
 looks promising, and the Rev. M. J. Berkeley has 
 declared that the mixture of " all sorts " which he has 
 seen consigned to the pot in ketchup manufactories 
 would rather astonish an outsider. 
 
 A very simple and effectual method of making 
 this excellent sauce is to wipe the mushrooms and 
 cut off the stems, laying the caps in a pan with the 
 gills upwards, and sprinkling them with salt, taking 
 care to exclude those which are maggoty. They 
 
MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 203 
 
 should lie three or four days, and then squeezed 
 with the hand thoroughly so as to extract all the 
 juice. Take one ounce of whole pepper, one ounce 
 of well bruised ginger, and half an ounce of cloves 
 for each pint of the liquor. Boil all together for 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, and when cold, decant into 
 clean bottles, either with or without straining, but, if 
 strained, it is better to add a few peppercorns to each 
 bottle. The corking must be good and well sealed 
 to exclude the air. If at any time afterwards the 
 ketchup shows any tendency to become ropy, it should 
 be boiled again for a short time with a little more 
 spice, when the ropiness will disappear, and it will 
 be as good as ever. 
 
 Mrs Hussey recommends a method of ketchup 
 making which retains better the aroma and flavour, 
 by not submitting it to boiling. The mushrooms, 
 being first cleaned from all extraneous matter, and 
 those being utterly rejected which border at all on 
 decomposition, are sliced and salted, and the juice 
 suffered to run off through a colander without squeez- 
 ing. It is then left for a few hours, and after being 
 decanted carefully from any sediment, placed in small 
 bottles, room being left for a little alcohol in which 
 the proper spices have been previously steeped. 
 Well stoppered, this is said to keep admirably. 
 
 The orthodox process of domestic ketchup manu- 
 facture is something like the following, modified 
 sometimes to suit individual idiosyncrasies : Mush- 
 
204 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 room caps, denuded of the stems, are selected, full 
 grown specimens being preferred, and these should be 
 collected in dry weather, and not when the mush- 
 rooms are saturated with moisture, in which latter 
 case the ketchup turns musty and will not keep. A 
 layer of mushroom caps are placed, gills upwards, in a 
 deep pan, and sprinkled with salt, some say in the pro- 
 portion of one ounce of salt to a gallon of mushrooms, 
 and some recommend double that quantity. Then 
 another and. another layer of mushrooms are added 
 alternately with salt, until the pan is filled. These 
 are allowed to remain for five or six hours, or all 
 night, and then all the caps are to be broken up and 
 mixed together in a genefal mess by hand. The 
 pan with its contents should be stood in a cool place 
 for three days, occasionally stirring and mashing so 
 that all the fragments may be well broken and 
 mixed, so as to extract as much of the juice as 
 possible. The liquor may now be poured off, without 
 straining, and measured, so as to add for each quart 
 of liquor a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, half an 
 ounce of allspice, half an ounce of bruised ginger, and 
 two blades of pounded mace. Some prefer to substi- 
 tute for the cayenne and allspice an ounce of whole 
 pepper and a few cloves. The liquor and the spice is 
 now put into a stone jar, which is covered and 
 plunged in a saucepan of boiling water, set over the 
 fire, and kept boiling for three hours. The contents 
 of the jar may now be turned into a clean saucepan, 
 
MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 205 
 
 and allowed to simmer for half an hour. The fluid 
 should then be poured off into a clean jug, and 
 allowed to stand in a cool place until next day. The 
 liquor may then be strained into dry bottles, but the 
 bottles must be clean and dry. Some add a tea- 
 spoonful of brandy to each pint of ketchup. 
 
 When bottled, each bottle should be corked and 
 the top covered with resin or sealing-wax to exclude 
 the air. The bottles should be examined from time 
 to time, and, if any ropiness appears, it should be 
 boiled again with a little more spice. 
 
 The sediment or refuse of the straining, and all the 
 fragments originally left, may be well squeezed, and 
 the juice obtained boiled down with spice, in the 
 same proportions as above, and will make a rather 
 cloudy but good ketchup for immediate use, but it 
 will not keep. 
 
 Double ketchup is made by boiling down good 
 ketchup to half the quantity, which, by evaporating 
 the water, doubles its strength. Some housewives 
 instead of adding brandy to the ketchup put a tea- 
 spoonful of peppercorns in each pint and a half bottle 
 before corking. 
 
 For good results mixed fungi should not be used, 
 beyond certain limits ; for instance, although Coprinus 
 comatus and Coprinus atramentarius, singly or to* 
 gether, will produce a good ketchup, they should not 
 be mixed with the common mushroom, the meadow 
 mushroom, and the wood mushroom, all of which 
 
206 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 latter may be combined. Again, if the warted mush- 
 room (Agaricus rubescens) be converted into ketchup, 
 it should 1 be kept pure and unmixed, because the 
 resulting fluid will be pale and mild. The dusky- 
 mushroom [Agaricus nebularis) has never been recom- 
 mended for ketchup, but there is no reason why it 
 should not be successful, especially as a good supply 
 of the fungus is probable wherever it is found at all. 
 
 It will hardly be possible to make a large supply of 
 ketchup from the fairy ring champignon {Marasmius 
 oreades), because it is. so dry in substance that each 
 individual will yield but a very small quantity, and, 
 as the fungus itself is only a little one, an immense 
 number must be collected to produce a batch. 
 
 XXXIL— ABOUT POISONOUS FUNGI. 
 
 Several reasons have influenced us in excluding 
 descriptions of poisonous fungi from this volume. 
 Firstly, because they would not assist in obtaining a 
 knowledge of the edible species, and by error might 
 be confused with them. Secondly, because the 
 popularization of a knowledge of poisons, of any kind, 
 is never desirable, being liable to do more harm than 
 good. Finally, if these reasons have not sufficient 
 weight, that the dimensions decided upon for this 
 
ABOUT POISONOUS FUNGI. 207 
 
 work, so as to ensure a popular price, would not 
 permit of the introduction of noxious species, without 
 a corresponding diminution in the number of edible 
 species described and figured. 
 
 It has always been supposed by the uninitiated that 
 the number of noxious species as compared with the 
 edible is enormous, and are by very far in the majority. 
 Upon investigation this will be discovered to be an 
 error. There are species undoubtedly virulent, which 
 we cannot for a moment deny, but the number of 
 these is much inferior to the number of those which 
 are innocuous, whilst the experience of every year 
 tends to the diminution of the suspected species, 
 many of which have been suspected without any 
 sufficient cause. Select any one hundred consecutive 
 species from a list, and assume that a dozen of them 
 are known to be esculent, hitherto it has been very 
 much the practice to condemn the residual eighty- 
 eight as noxious, which is a cardinal error. There may 
 be a number of species so small that no one would 
 ever enquire whether they were poisonous or not. 
 There would also be a considerable number which 
 might be termed botanical curiosities, species once 
 seen and recorded, but never met with for a quarter 
 of a century, or species so rare that only one or two 
 are met with at intervals. Finally, there will always 
 be a number known to possess some quality other 
 than noxious, such as toughness, deficiency in flesh, &c, 
 which forbids, and always would forbid, their being 
 
208 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 classed with edible fungi. Ultimately, the known 
 deleterious species would be found diminished to five 
 or six. Indeed we could point out more than a 
 hundred consecutive species in almost any list which 
 would not include a single poisonous species. 
 
 Over and over again have we been urged to lay 
 down some rules, or instructions, whereby poisonous 
 may be distinguished from innocuous fungi. As often 
 have we declared, as we do now, that such general 
 instructions are impossible. No rules can be given 
 whereby a poisonous can be distinguished from 
 a harmless species, nothing except knowledge and 
 experience. The poisonous species already known 
 are known because they have a past history which has 
 condemned them, and not from any evidence written 
 upon them. The most experienced mycologist 
 cannot tell by any character, feature, or behaviour, 
 that this or that fungus is poisonous or the reverse. 
 He only knows its antecedents and the company it 
 keeps. A large order of flowering plants, such as the 
 Solanacece, may be looked upon with suspicion, but 
 the potato and tomato are not poisons. In the 
 Agarics the subgenus Amanita with warted caps have 
 always been regarded with suspicion because of 
 Agaricus muscarius and Agaricus phalloides ; but two 
 others of the same group, Agaricus rubescens and 
 Agaricus strobiliformis, ' are most excellent food. 
 Amongst the Boleti it has long been a standing in- 
 struction to consider all the species unfit for food, 
 
ABOUT POISONOUS FUNGI. 209 
 
 the flesh of which turns blue when cut or wounded. 
 Some of the most virulent turn deep blue when cut, 
 but one or two harmless species turn blue likewise. 
 Again, Boletus felleus has the repute of a poisonous 
 species, but it does not turn blue when cut. Another 
 bubble is burst, and so every attempt to give general 
 instructions for the discrimination of poisonous and 
 edible species ends in a failure when put to the test. 
 
 Although we cannot give patent instructions for 
 general application, we can pronounce cautions, and 
 we do not fail in these cautions from time to time. 
 We caution everyone against experiment in eating 
 fungi which are unknown to them, or not recom- 
 mended by a competent authority. There are 
 sufficient good and reliable species without making 
 experiments, and, as the only safe guide is knowledge, 
 we recommend everyone to know a few good species 
 thoroughly well, to have them pointed out, to examine 
 for themselves, and then they may always eat them 
 without fear. It is as easy to learn to distinguish 
 one edible species from another as it is to know a 
 partridge from a sea-gull, and yet the latter process 
 requires no man to be an ornithologist. 
 
 We have already cautioned readers against agarics 
 with pink or salmon coloured spores, and a caution 
 of this kind may still be continued, even although 
 two species are quite harmless and delicate eating. 
 
 Further we may advise abstention from all bright 
 red, scarlet, or crimson agarics or russules unless the 
 
 o 
 
2IO BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 individual concerned has most undoubted authority, 
 not merely descriptions in books upon which to 
 rely. 
 
 Mushrooms of all kinds pass so rapidly into decay, 
 and consequently suffer rapid chemical change, so 
 that even innocuous species should always be eaten 
 as soon after they are gathered as conveniently may 
 be. Not even the common mushroom is so delicate, 
 or so excellent, at any other period as it is within an 
 hour or two of its being gathered. Certainly no 
 fungus should be cooked as food after it has exhibited 
 any symptoms of decay. 
 
 We have known individuals who can at no time 
 eat the ordinary mushroom without inconvenience, and 
 we remember one instance in which only a small 
 fragment of mushroom, eaten accidentally, always pro- 
 duced symptoms of poisoning. This case, and cases 
 of a similar nature, are quite independent of the 
 wholesome nature of the fungus. It is a constitu- 
 tional idiosyncrasy in the individual which should not 
 condemn the immediate cause. Cases of fungus 
 poisoning are now much more under medical control 
 than formerly, since the method of hypodermic injec- 
 tion of antidotes has been practised, and we have the 
 authority of a physician for stating that he has found 
 it so effectual that he is always prepared to resort to 
 it at once. 
 
 Is it true that mushrooms which are under ordinary 
 conditions perfectly good, such as the cultivated 
 
ABOUT POISONOUS FUNGI. 2 I I 
 
 mushroom, acquire deleterious properties under 
 certain other unknown conditions ? To this we can 
 only reply that it is not only possible, but that it has 
 taken place. We do not pretend to fathom the 
 cause, but can only recognise the fact. It is very 
 rarely that such an experience is heard of, but having 
 really occurred in the past, it is not impossible in the 
 future. There is sometimes to be found in pastures 
 scattered individuals of the ordinary mushroom with 
 a dark brown cap, but in all other respects like the 
 true mushroom. It has come to our knowledge 
 more than once that this dark mushroom is not 
 trustworthy, and should be avoided. What the 
 connection may be between the dark cap and the 
 deleterious property we are not prepared to determine. 
 
 Adverting to recognisable features of a general 
 character, we may be permitted to intimate that 
 mushrooms which are mild and pleasant to the taste 
 are so usually edible that we should not hesitate for 
 ourselves to cook and eat any such which came in 
 our way, without credentials. Further, we should 
 always feel suspicious of a fungus with a biting, 
 peppery, or acrid taste, and shoidd not be disposed to 
 eat it, unless its antecedents are in favour of its being 
 perfectly harmless. 
 
 There are fungi possessing peculiar rancid, nitrous, 
 or fcetid odours. As we know of none such that are 
 edible, we invariably consider these suspicious, and 
 recommend others to do the same. 
 
212 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 If not in themselves poisonous, there are conditions 
 under which otherwise good species may cause incon- 
 venience through bad cooking, by which means they 
 may be rendered indigestible. It is quite possible for 
 mushrooms to be condemned as heavy and indigestible 
 when the fault does not rest with the fungus but with 
 the cook. 
 
 In the case of puff balls of all kinds, it is a special 
 injunction that they should not be accepted as good 
 for food after the internal flesh shows the least 
 sulphury tinge. The flesh must always be of a con- 
 tinuous, uninterrupted white. 
 
 Undoubtedly fungi which are considered poisonous 
 by us are eaten in Russia, but they have a method of 
 soaking, or preserving, fungi in vinegar, which may 
 serve to explain this anomaly, rather than by attribut- 
 ing it to any climatic conditions. If the poison is of 
 an alkaline nature there is no difficulty in believing 
 that maceration in acid would counteract mischievous 
 effects. 
 
 There is much consolation for us who are addicted, 
 to fungus eating, on something like scientific prin- 
 ciples, that when casualties do happen it is not upon 
 us that they fall. If the records of fungus poisoning 
 are studied, it will be found either that the victims 
 were children, or that they were reckless and stupid, 
 because in so many instances the result has accrued 
 through accepting as mushrooms things which hardly 
 remotely resembled them. Those who eat strange 
 
DRIED MUSHROOMS. 2 1 3 
 
 " toadstools " as the result of experience, and the use 
 of their intellect and common sense, being also aware 
 of the danger, consequently escape, and are safe. 
 
 XXXIII.— DRIED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 FUNGI dried for winter use is a luxury more in vogue 
 on the Continent than with us, and yet the material is 
 as common, and it can only be the taste that is want- 
 ing. If the mushroom flavour is desirable during 
 a few autumnal months, why should it not be equally 
 acceptable through the winter ? Custom has a great 
 deal to do with these things, and in the present case 
 the custom might be accepted with advantage. The 
 compound sold in some cases as " Mushroom powder " 
 is no equivalent, but rather acts as a deterrent ; but 
 genuine mushroom powder is only one of the forms of 
 dried fungi. Under the several species we have noti- 
 fied those which are most suitable for the process of 
 drying, and these may be collected here so as to 
 exhibit at once what are the possible kitchen resources 
 in the winter. It seems strange that at the very 
 period of the year when soups and savoury dishes are 
 most acceptable of all, that such delicate flavourings 
 should be absent. No one who has been in Germany 
 or Austria during winter can fail to have noted the 
 
214 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 contrast in this particular with home, and not have 
 recognized the " ceps " and dried fungi of other kinds 
 exposed for sale in every street. 
 
 This reference reminds us that several kinds of 
 Boleti are amongst the most common of the dried 
 fungi. The stem is discarded, the pores cleared away 
 from the under side of the cap, and then the white 
 fleshy cap is cut in slices about the thickness of 
 a penny piece, and thoroughly dried in the air. Cer- 
 tainly Boletus edulis, Boletus scaber^ and Boletus 
 granulosus, all of which are described in this work, are 
 common enough, and might be prepared in this 
 manner. 
 
 Another fungus which is peculiarly suitable for 
 drying is the fairy ring champignon {Marasmius 
 oreades). These can be strung in a line by passing 
 a twine through a hole in the .stems, and suspending 
 them in the kitchen until quite dry. There is so little 
 water in their composition that they will dry readily, 
 without any tendency to decay, and the flavour is 
 hardly to be equalled by any other. 
 
 Chantarelles are another kind which are admirably 
 adapted for drying in the same manner as the fore- 
 going, from which they also differ in the kind of 
 flavour which they impart. If the specimens are 
 large they should be cut in half before drying in 
 order to facilitate the process. 
 
 The hedgehog mushroom (Hydnum repandum) is 
 also available for the same purpose, but these should 
 
DRIED MUSHROOMS. 2 I 5 
 
 be cut or sliced, as whole specimens, if large, are 
 liable to decay if dried too slowly. It would be pre- 
 ferable in all cases to slice them in the same manner 
 as the Boleti. 
 
 The St George's mushroom {Agaricus gambosus) 
 has been recommended for drying, but we have never 
 tried it, since at the time of its appearance no other 
 fungi are to be had, and it has never been our good 
 fortune to have more at a time than we were glad to 
 use for immediate consumption. 
 
 Some mycologists have commended the two related 
 species, the plum mushroom {Agaricus prunulus) and 
 the orcella {Agaricus orcella), as excellent for drying, 
 but these seem to have such a delicate flavour, only 
 appreciable if cooked whilst fresh, that we have 
 almost regarded it as a sin " to waste their sweetness 
 in the kitchen air " by the evaporation of their aroma 
 in drying. 
 
 There are several other species of fleshy agarics 
 which would dry very well, and answer the ordinary 
 purpose of flavouring in winter, but they do not 
 retain that delicacy which recommends them in the 
 fresh state, and for such a purpose there are plenty 
 of others. For instance, few would care to sacrifice 
 such a breakfast delicacy as the parasol mushroom 
 {Agaricus procerus) for the remote exigencies of a 
 winter stew. 
 
 Foremost amongst the best kinds for the flavour- 
 ing of winter dishes are the morels* We have several 
 
2l6 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 different species, but none of them too common, and 
 the small ones may be dried on strings, entire, the 
 larger cut into segments. It is a curious circum- 
 stance that the natives in the Vale of Cashmere and 
 on the slopes of the Himalayas dry the morels on 
 strings, in which form they are sold in the bazaars of 
 North Western India as articles of food. One of the 
 species is identical with one lately found in Scotland 
 {Morchella deliciosd). They are dried in France and 
 Italy, and we have purchased dried imported morels 
 in Covent Garden market, but seldom seen fresh 
 ones. 
 
 An excellent substitute, similar in flavour, are the 
 Helvellas, which are more common with us, and at a 
 later season of the year. The only two species large 
 enough for drying {Helvella crispa and Helvella 
 lacunosd) may be collected in such places as Epping 
 Forest, during the autumn, and are perhaps more 
 suitable for drying for winter use than for cooking 
 when fresh. Often during an autumnal stroll one or 
 two individuals will be found, and possibly no more, 
 quite insufficient for a dish at the time, but they may 
 be dried, and thus during a season quite a good 
 supply may be obtained, one by one, or at most half 
 a dozen at a time, and they will dry readily, anyhow, 
 without any trouble, if left exposed to the air. 
 
 Truffles will, we fear, never be burdensome from 
 their profusion, but in case any one should desire to 
 experiment on drying them, they should be cut in 
 
DRIED MUSHROOMS. 2 I 7 
 
 slices about as thick as a penny, and if laid flat, be 
 often turned over whilst drying, or the under surface 
 is liable to moisten and decay. Dried truffles are 
 not comparable with fresh ones, and even those pre- 
 served in oil are preferred by most persons, ourselves 
 amongst the number. As a nation we are not great 
 in truffle production, or in truffle eating, save in the 
 guise of Strasburg pies. 
 
 Having dried such fungi as are intended to be pre- 
 served, thoroughly, they may be stored away in a 
 dry place. Some have recommended wide mouthed 
 bottles or jars, and others tin canisters or boxes, for 
 holding the store, but our objection is to all hermeti- 
 cally sealed vessels, because the slightest amount of 
 moisture present is sufficient to induce incipient 
 mouldiness and a musty taste. We prefer muslin 
 bags, or anything of the kind which permits of the 
 ingress of air, and these suspended in the kitchen, or 
 in a very dry place, will prove effectual. Only let 
 dust be excluded, and the fungi kept thoroughly dry, 
 but not air tight, as the latter may result in fermenta- 
 tion, or mouldiness, without any compensating advan- 
 tage. 
 
 When any of the dried mushrooms are intended to 
 be used they should be soaked for an hour in warm 
 water, and then drained before using. Some prefer 
 soaking all night. If added to a stew or soup, they 
 should be the last ingredient, ten or fifteen minutes 
 is sufficient. It is a great mistake to keep them 
 
2l8 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 boiling over the fire for an hour or two, and 
 diffusing all the volatile flavour and aroma in steam. 
 
 We have already given instructions for the pre- 
 paration of "mushroom powder" which needs not 
 repetition. Our own experience of the best of this 
 kind of preparation has not been satisfactory, but as 
 others have spoken well of it, the fault may rest with 
 ourselves. 
 
 In the metropolis dried " ceps " and dried mush- 
 rooms may be purchased at most of the shops for 
 sale of German and Italian provisions, such as are 
 found in the neighbourhood of Soho and Leicester 
 Square. 
 
 XXXIV.— FUNGUS HUNTING. 
 
 FUNGUS eating of course implies fungus hunting, and 
 as the articles to be consumed have first to be ob- 
 tained, it is essential that all possible assistance 
 should be given to attain this object. For this 
 purpose it is essential that the inexperienced should 
 know as well the times and seasons for certain 
 species, and the most favourable localities, as to be 
 able to discriminate them when found. Dealing as 
 it does with a large number of different kinds of 
 fungi, appearing consecutively through a period of 
 some months, there must be some method in hunting 
 
FUNGUS HUNTING. 219 
 
 as well as in cooking, applicable to the different 
 kinds individually. It goes without saying that 
 some localities will be superior to others in their 
 facilities for obtaining the raw material, but the 
 worst localities will furnish a better result if worked 
 in a systematic manner, and as the edible fungi 
 under consideration are wild and spontaneous plants, 
 dependent not only upon terrestrial but also atmo- 
 spherical conditions, much time will be wasted, and 
 disappointment caused, if only a hap-hazard kind of 
 fungus hunting is resorted to. For instance, it will 
 be useless to make an excursion in the early summer 
 in the hope of finding kinds which do not make their 
 appearance until autumn, and it will be equally un- 
 availing to scour the woods in June for particular 
 species, such as the fairy ring champignon, which 
 does not grow in woods at all, but on open heaths, 
 lawns, parks, and pastures. In all such matters there 
 is no better guide than experience, but in default of 
 experience, and to assist in its acquisition, a little 
 may be communicated under the head of general 
 instructions. 
 
 Some excellent suggestions were made by Dr Bull 
 in a volume of the Woolhope Transactions as to the 
 period of the year in which the various edible fungi 
 prevail. He writes — "In the end of April, or the 
 beginning of May, the fungus season begins with the 
 appearance of the true St George's mushroom (Agaricus 
 gambosus) growing in fairy rings, in pastures. These 
 
220 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 are quickly followed by the little fairy ring cham- 
 pignon {Marasmius oreades), scattered specimens of 
 the meadow mushroom, or horse mushroom {Agaricus 
 arvensis), clusters of the maned agaric {Coprinus 
 comatus), which in warm sunny seasons may be 
 gathered all through the months of May, June, and 
 July, and in the last month the edible boletus 
 {Boletus edulis) will have put in its appearance. 
 Then comes the great season of the common mush- 
 room {Agaricus campestris), which may be allowed to 
 reign supreme through July and August. From this 
 time, through September and October, the great 
 crop of fungi will appear. Besides those already 
 named, there will abound the fine flavoured parasol 
 agaric {Agaricus procerus), the rich red milk agaric {Lac- 
 tarius deliciosus), the brown warty agaric {Agaricus 
 rubescens), the great puff ball {Lycoperdon giganteuni), 
 the vegetable beef steak {Fistulina hepaticd) on decay- 
 ing oak trees, vegetable sweet-bread {Agaricus orcella), 
 the plum mushroom {Agaricus prunulus), the pas- 
 ture hygrophorus {Hygrophorus pratensis), and many 
 others. The seasons will then be carried on by the 
 hedgehog mushroom {Hydnum repandum), the small 
 but abundant ivory caps {Hygrophorus virgineus), the 
 blewits {Agaricus pet sonatus), and the amethyst agaric 
 {Agaricus nudus), until the frosts of November and 
 December stop their growth." It might have been 
 added that even slight frosts do not materially affect 
 the different species of Hygrophorus, which are about 
 
FUNGUS HUNTING. 22 1 
 
 the last to linger, in defiance of the coming winter, 
 except perhaps the pasture Hygrophorus, which is not 
 a late species. 
 
 Under the different species we have given, together 
 with the necessary descriptions for their identification, 
 some intimation of their habitats. These will vary 
 but little, although there will be some variation in 
 the period of their advent, consequent upon the 
 peculiarities of the season. Sometimes we have, as 
 of late, a succession of seasons so unfavourable to 
 the growth of fleshy fungi that they are compara- 
 tively rare throughout the year. At other times 
 continuous warm, moist weather ensures a plentiful 
 supply of one species after another for many months. 
 
 Hunting in woods for edible fungi should be 
 undertaken later in the year than in the " open," and 
 then it will save time if a few generalities are kept in 
 remembrance. Where the ground is covered with 
 bracken, or overrun with brambles, or has a dense 
 growth of underwood, labour will be in vain. A very 
 few of the smaller agarics may occasionally be found 
 sparingly amongst bracken and bramble, but as a rule 
 the experienced hunter passes such spots, on the as- 
 sumption that they are absolutely barren. Dense 
 undergrowth is not quite so bad, but only a few 
 specimens are to be seen. The sides of paths, or 
 rides, on the contrary, will usually furnish something 
 of use or interest. Aspect is another point for con- 
 sideration ; a southern or western aspect is far prefer- 
 
2 22 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 able to an eastern or northern one. The cold north- 
 ern side of a wood only affords a few of the hardiest 
 species, but a warm moist slope, facing the south or 
 the west, is usually a happy hunting ground. If the 
 season is a very dry one the bottom of the slopes, 
 and all damp spots should be explored. Cleared 
 spots, where the undergrowth has been cut down, 
 presents such a changed condition that it is useless to 
 walk over it for two or three years after the clearing 
 has taken place. 
 
 The majority of our woods are mixed woods, but 
 plantations of fir trees are useful in their way, 
 although the fungi are confined to a few species. 
 The fungi of fir woods will soon be recognised as 
 different from those in mixed woods, whilst such 
 things as yellow boleti and the red milk agaric 
 {Lactarius deliciosus) will only be found under fir trees. 
 
 The tree-loving species are also a little eccentric in 
 their habits. The slimy white species found so 
 constantly on beech trunks {Agaricus mucidus) will 
 be seen scattered in clusters all over a dead beech 
 trunk whilst still standing, but only sparingly when 
 the trunk is prostrate. In some woods prostrate 
 timber is not allowed to be on the ground long 
 enough to produce a good crop of fungi, but, when 
 permitted, the oyster mushroom {Agaricus ostreatus) 
 will be found in large, dense clusters. We have 
 never been successful in finding it elsewhere than on 
 fallen timber, whereas the elm tree mushroom 
 
FUNGUS HUNTING. 223 
 
 {Agaricus ulmarius) flourishes high up on the rotting 
 branches of standing elms, and we do not remember 
 having collected it from a prostrate elm. 
 
 When parks and pastures are explored no one 
 would dream of undertaking it at times when 
 continuous drought has turned the grass yellow, and 
 hardened the ground so that fungi cannot penetrate 
 above the surface. At all times care should be taken 
 to look under the shadow of all the trees, and 
 especially around the circle of drip from the outer 
 branches. As a rule the number of species of all 
 kinds found in open places is much less than of those 
 occurring in woods, but this is compensated by the 
 species being of a different kind. Low lying, damp 
 meadows are unproductive, the preference being given 
 to old parks and commons. It need scarcely to be 
 suggested that quiet and secluded places are to be 
 preferred, and not such as are infested by the British 
 public for picnics, where the ground is trodden down, 
 all toadstools kicked over and destroyed, with a 
 legacy of luncheon papers, meat tins, and empty 
 bottles to mark the track of the spoilers. 
 
 In gathering fungi for domestic purposes some 
 prefer an open basket, whilst others, with a strong 
 regard for appearances, select in preference a tin 
 vasculum, such as is used for collecting plants for 
 botanical purposes. In either case it is quite un- 
 necessary to carry more than .is requisite: The stems 
 can always be cut off close to the gills, and discarded, 
 
2 24 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 and then the caps may be packed close together in a 
 comparatively small space, preference always being 
 given to young, fresh looking individuals, rigidly 
 excluding all which exhibit a tendency to decay, or 
 are attacked by insects. It is of no consequence the 
 mixing of several kinds together for the purpose of 
 transit, but these should be separated afterwards, as 
 we have no sympathy with the practice of combining 
 two or three kinds together to furnish a dish for 
 the table. Each kind should be tested on its own 
 merits, and not combined into a sort of mushroom 
 Irish stew. Again, we repeat that " the fresher the 
 better " applies to all esculent fungi, and that the 
 sooner they are cooked the better. 
 
 Neither can we omit to caution the reckless against 
 being reckless with articles of food. We have given 
 as clear a definition as we could of each species, and 
 have added figures of a large number, so that any one, 
 with the . exercise of moderate care and intelligence, 
 may with certainty determine, without risk, the species 
 we have named. If. at any time there , should be a 
 doubt, let the benefit be given to the doubt, and either 
 relinquish the dish or call in the assistance of some 
 one more experienced to set the doubt at rest. We do 
 not approve of experiments in fungus eating, and hence 
 we have included none which we were not perfectly sure 
 were entirely safe. It is an excellent plan to select a 
 few species at first, and learn to know them well, before 
 proceeding to others, unless the others are recom- 
 
LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 225 
 
 mended and determined by some one of experience. 
 There is no better method than to join in some fungus 
 foray, which is usually conducted by some capable 
 person, and endeavour to have the edible species 
 pointed out, so that they may be examined and 
 compared with descriptions and figures. In this way 
 all hesitation is removed, and those particular species 
 become as well known as the face of an old and 
 familiar friend. 
 
 XXXV.— LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 Dry and uninteresting as an inventory, or catalogue, 
 will be a barren list of the fungi of Britain available 
 for domestic purposes, and yet we are about to 
 venture upon it as a direct means of proving that 
 the subject has not been exhausted. Of course we 
 do not expect any one to read it, but some infatuated 
 individual may at some remote period be induced to 
 consult it, perhaps with the charitable hope of finding 
 it wrong, or making suggestions for its improvement. 
 It must not be concluded that all are equally delicate, 
 or appetizing ; it is sufficient for this purpose that the 
 species is recognized as edible. Their respective 
 merits must be determined by individual tastes. 
 Some are prefixed by an asterisk (*) to indicate that 
 
 P 
 
226 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 we have eaten them ourselves and still survive to 
 testify to the fact. The adoption of scientific names 
 was a necessity in order to secure accuracy and 
 promote recognition by those who prefer precision in 
 matters of life and death. 
 
 * Agaricus (Amanita) rubescens. Fries. 
 Agaricus (Amanita) strobiliformis. Vitt. 
 
 *Agaricus (Amanitopsis) vaginatus. Bull. 
 *Agaricus (Lepiota) procerus. Scop. 
 *Agaricus (Lepiota) rachodes. Vitt. 
 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) excoriatus. Schceff. 
 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) gracilentus. Kromb. 
 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) mastoideus. Fries. Small, 
 and not very strongly recommended. 
 
 *Agaricus (Lepiota) acutesquamosus. Weinm. 
 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) naucinus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Lepiota) holosericeus. Fries. 
 
 * Agaricus (Armillaria) melleus. Fl. Dan. Very 
 common, and much used on the Continent, but not 
 recommended. 
 
 *Agaricus (Armillaria) mucidus. Schrad. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) flavo-brunneus. Fries. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) russula. Schceff. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) columbetta. Fries. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) imbricatus. Fries. 
 ' *Agaricus (Tricholoma) gambosus. Fries. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) amethystinus. Scop. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) albellus. Fries. 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) tigrinus. Schceff. 
 
LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 227 
 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) pes caprce. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) arcuatus. Bull. 
 *Agaricus (Tricholoma) personatus. Fries. 
 *Agaricus (Tricholoma) nudus. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) grammopodius. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) brevipes. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Tricholoma) acerbus. Fries. Is said 
 to be eaten on the Continent, but we know of no one 
 who has tried it. 
 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) nebularis. Batsch. 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) opiparus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) odcrus. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) cerussatus. Fries. 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) dealbatus. Sow. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) fumosus. Pers. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) monstrosus. Sow. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) maximus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) giganteus. Sow. 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) infundibuliformis. Fries. 
 * Agaricus (Clitocybe) geotropus. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) subinvolutus. Batsch. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) gilvus. Pers. 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) catinus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) cyathiformis. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) expallens. Pers. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) obbatus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) pruinosus. Lasch. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) brumalis. Fries. 
 
228 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 *Agaricus (Clitocybe) fragrans. Sow. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitocybe) laccatus. Scop. 
 *Agaricus (Collybia) fusipes. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Collybia) esculentus. Wulf. 
 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) dryinus. Pers. 
 *Agaricus (Pleurotus) ulmarius. Bull. 
 
 * Agaricus (Pleurotus) sapidus. Kalch. 
 
 * Agaricus (Pleurotus) ostreatus. Jacq. 
 *Agaricus (Pleurotus) euosmus. Berk. 
 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) glandulosus. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) salignus. Pers. Should only 
 be eaten when young. 
 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) petaloides. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Pleurotus) pulmonarius. Fries. Has 
 been recommended, but is very rare. 
 
 Agaricus (Volvaria) bombycinus. Schceff. Is often 
 eaten abroad, but we have never been induced 
 to try it. Pink spored species are (as a rule) 
 suspicious. 
 
 Agaricus (Entoloma) rhodopolius. Fries. 
 *Agaricus (Clitopilus) prunulus. Scop. 
 *Agaricus (Clitopilus) orcella. Bull. 
 
 Agaricus (Clitopilus) popinalis. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Pholiota) prcecox. Pers. 
 
 Agaricus (Pholiota) pudicus. Fries. 
 
 * Agaricus (Pholiota) leochromus. Cooke. 
 Agaricus (Pholiota) segerita. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Pholiota) squarrosus. Mull. Cordier 
 
LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 229 
 
 recommends this, but we should doubt if it is worth 
 the trouble of cooking. 
 
 Agaricus (Pholiota) mutabilis. Schceff. Certainly 
 edible, but not delicate. 
 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) elvensis. Berk. 
 *Agaricus (Psalliota) arvensis. Schceff. 
 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) pratensis. Schceff. 
 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) cretaceus. Fries. 
 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) campestris. Linn. 
 *Agaricus (Psalliota) sylvaticus. Schceff. 
 
 Agaricus (Psalliota) hsemorrhoidarius. Kalch. 
 
 Agaricus (Hypholoma) velutinus. Pers. 
 
 Agaricus (Hypholoma) candolleanus. Fries. 
 The latter two species are often introduced as 
 an ingredient in catsup, but, although innocent 
 and edible, we doubt if many persons would consider 
 them good enough. 
 
 *Coprinus comatus. Fries. 
 *Coprinus atramentarius. Fries. 
 
 Coprinus sterquilinus. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Phlegmacium) varius. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Phlegmacium) turbinatus. Bull. 
 
 Cortinarius (Myxacium) collinitus. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Inoloma) violaceus. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Telamonia) armillatus. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Telamonia) hcematochelis. Bull. 
 
 Cortinarius (Dermocybe) cinnamomeus. Fries. 
 
 Cortinarius (Hydrocybe) castaneus. Bull. 
 
23O BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 *Gomphidius glutinosus. Schceff. 
 *Gomphidius viscidus. Linn. 
 These two species of Gomphidius are chiefly used 
 in the manufacture of catsup. 
 *Paxillus involutus. Batsch. 
 *Hygrophorus eburneus. Bull. 
 
 Hygrophorus penarius. Fries. 
 
 Hygrophorus erubescens. Fries. 
 *Hygrophorus pratensis. Pers. 
 *Hygrophorus virgineus. Wulf. 
 *Hygrophorus niveus. Scop. 
 *Hygrophorus coccineus. Schceff. 
 
 Hygrophorus puniceus. Fries. 
 *Lactarius turpis. Fries. 
 
 Lactarius controversus. Fries. 
 These two species are rather deficient in aroma and 
 flavour. 
 
 Lactarius utilis. Weinm. 
 
 Lactarius pergamenus. Fries. 
 
 Lactarius piperatus. Scop, 
 These two species of Lactarius are eaten on the 
 Continent and in the United States, but have hitherto 
 been regarded as suspicious in this country. 
 *Lactarius deliciosus. Linn. 
 
 Lactarius pallidus. Pers. 
 
 Lactarius quietus. Fries. 
 
 Lactarius volemus. Fries. 
 *Lactarius mitissimus. Fries. 
 
LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 23 1 
 
 *Lactarius subdulcis. Bull. 
 
 Lactarius camphoratus. Bull. 
 
 Russula lactea. Fries. 
 *Russula virescens. Schceff. 
 
 Russula lepida. Fries. 
 
 Russula vesca. Fries. 
 *Russula cyanoxantha. Schceff. 
 *Russula heterophylla. Fries. 
 
 Russula integra. Linn. 
 
 Russula alutacea. Fries. 
 *Cantharellus cibarius. Fries. 
 *Marasmius oreades. Fries. 
 
 Marasmius scorodonius. Fries. 
 
 Lentinus tigrinus. Fries. 
 
 Panus conchatus. Fries. 
 
 Panus torulosus. Fries. 
 These latter three species are tough when old, and 
 never very delicate or digestible. 
 
 Boletus luteus. Linn. 
 
 Boletus elegans. Schum. 
 *Boletus granulatus. Linn. 
 
 Boletus bovinus. Linn. 
 
 Boletus badius. Fries. 
 *Boletus edulis. Bull. 
 
 Boletus aereus. Bull. 
 
 Boletus vaccinus. Fries. 
 
 Boletus fragrans. Vilt. 
 
 Boletus impolitus. Fries. 
 
232 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 Boletus aestivalis. Fries. 
 *Boletus versipellis. Fries. 
 *Boletus scaber. Fries. 
 *Boletus castaneus. Fries. 
 
 Polyporus frondosus. Fries. 
 *Polyporus intybaceus. Fries. 
 These Polypori should only be attempted when 
 young and juicy, and then only the pilei. 
 *Fistulina hepatica. Fries. 
 
 Hydnum imbricatum. Linn. 
 *Hydnum repandum. Linn. 
 
 Hydnum coralloides. Scop. 
 
 Hydnum erinaceum. Bull. 
 
 Hydnum caput medusse. Bull. 
 
 Tremellodon gelatinosum. Fries. 
 *Craterellus cornucopioides. Pers. 
 *Sparassis crispa. Fries. 
 
 Clavaria flava. Schceff. 
 
 Clavaria botrytes. Pers. 
 
 Clavaria amethystina. Bull. 
 
 Clavaria fastigiata. Linn. 
 
 Clavaria coralloides. Linn. 
 *Clavaria cristata. Fries. 
 
 Clavaria cinerea. Bull. 
 *Clavaria rugosa. Bull. 
 
 Clavaria aurea. Schceff. 
 *Clavaria vermicularis. Scop. 
 
 Clavaria pistillaris. Linn. 
 
LIST OF EDIBLE FUNGI. 233 
 
 Hirneola auricula-Judaae. Fries. Is used by 
 the Chinese as an ingredient in soups. 
 
 Tremella lutescens. Pers. 
 
 Tremella mesenterica. Rets. 
 These two species of Tremella are usually too small 
 to be of any value as an esculent. 
 
 Bovista plumbea. Fries. (Young). 
 *Lycoperdon giganteum. Batsch. 
 
 Lycoperdon gemmatum. Fries. 
 
 Lycoperdon perlatum. Pers. 
 All these puff balls must be eaten only when young, 
 white, and juicy. 
 
 *Morchella esculenta. Pers. 
 *Morchella conica. Pers. 
 *Morchella Smithiana. Cooke. 
 
 Morchella deliciosa. Fries. 
 
 Morchella gigas. Pers. 
 
 Morchella crassipes. Pers. 
 
 Morchella semilibera. D. Cand. 
 *Helvella crispa. Fries. 
 *Helvella lacunosa. Afz. 
 
 Helvella elastica. Bull. 
 
 Peziza acetabulum. Linn. 
 
 Peziza macropus. Pers. 
 *Peziza vesiculosa. Bull. 
 
 Peziza aurantia. Vahl. 
 *Peziza venosa. Pers. 
 
 Peziza cochleata. Bull. 
 
234 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 Peziza badia. Pers. 
 Peziza cerea. Sow. 
 *Tuber aestivum. Vitt. 
 Tuber mesentericum. Tul. 
 Tuber brumale. Mich. 
 Melanogaster variegatus. Tul. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Agaricus arvensis 
 Agaricus campestris 
 Agaricus Csesarea 
 Agaricus columbinus 
 Agaricus elvensis 
 Agaricus euosmus 
 Agaricus excoriatus 
 Agaricus fragrans 
 Agaricus fusipes 
 Agaricus gambosus 
 Agaricus geotropus 
 Agaricus giganteus 
 Agaricus gracilentus 
 Agaricus haemorrhoidarius 
 Agaricus infundibuliformis 
 Agaricus maximus 
 Agaricus melleus 
 Agaricus mucidus 
 Agaricus nebularis 
 Agaricus nudus . 
 Agaricus odorus . 
 Agaricus orcella . 
 Agaricus ostreatus 
 Agaricus personatus 
 Agaricus procerus 
 Agaricus prunulus 
 Agaricus rachodes 
 Agaricus rubescens . 67 
 Agaricus sapidus 
 Agaricus strobiliformis 
 Agaricus sylvaticus . 41 
 Agaricus Trogii . 
 Agaricus ulmarius 
 Agaricus vaginatus 
 Agaricus villaticus 
 Ancient fungus eaters 
 Baked parasol mushroom 
 Big puff balls 
 
 PAGE 
 
 3i 
 24 
 11 
 
 139 
 
 37 
 
 140 
 
 5i 
 147 
 192 
 
 57 
 
 76 
 
 76 
 
 Si 
 
 39 
 
 77 
 
 76 
 
 189 
 
 190 
 
 72 
 
 61 
 
 146 
 
 98 
 
 138 
 
 59 
 
 49 
 
 99 
 
 50 
 
 202 
 
 141 
 
 69 
 
 202 
 
 146 
 
 141 
 
 71 
 
 33 
 
 11 
 
 53 
 128 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bleeding mushroom . . 39 
 Blewits .... 59 
 
 Blewits, cooking . . 64 
 
 Blue caps . . . .91 
 
 Boletus aestivalis . . 116 
 
 Boletus badius . . .118 
 
 Boletus bovinus . .119 
 
 Boletus castaneus . .120 
 
 Boletus edulis . . .110 
 
 Boletus elegans . . .118 
 
 Boletus granulatus . . 117 
 
 Boletus impolitus . . 116 
 
 Boletus scaber . . .114 
 
 Boletus versipellis . . 115 
 Broiled parasol mushroom . 53 
 Buffcaps .... 133 
 
 Bulfers or Bullfists . . 127 
 
 Cantharellus aurantiacus . 106 
 
 Cantharellus cibarius . . 102 
 
 Champignon powder . . 83 
 
 Chantarelles . . . 102 
 
 Chantarelle cooking . . 104 
 
 Clavaria amethystina . . 200 
 
 Clavaria botrytes . . 200 
 
 Clavaria fastigiata . .199 
 
 Clavaria pistillaris . .199 
 
 Clavaria rugosa . . . 200 
 
 Clavaria vermicularis . .199 
 
 Common mushrooms . . 24 
 
 Cooking boleti . . .112 
 
 Cooking dusky caps . . 75 
 
 Cooking Fistulina . . 125 
 
 Cooking Hydnum . . 96 
 
 Cooking morels . . . 155 
 
 Cooking truffles . .172 
 
 Coprinus atramentarius 47, 202 
 
 Coprinus comatus . 44, 202 
 Coprinus ink ... 48 
 
236 
 
 BRITISH EDIBLE FUNGI. 
 
 11 
 
 34, 
 
 Craterellus comucopioides 
 Cultivating mushrooms 
 Deliciosus pie . 
 Dried "ceps" . 
 Dried chantarelles 
 Dried mushrooms 
 Dusky caps 
 Earth cups 
 Edible boletus . 
 Edible Fungi, list of . 
 Essence of Procerus . 
 Fairy candles 
 Fairy clubs 
 Fairy rings 
 
 Fairy ring champignon 
 False chantarelle 
 Fistulina hepatica 
 Fragrant mushrooms . 
 Fried puff ball . 
 Fungi eating in Russia 
 Fungus eating . . 
 Fungus hunting . 
 Gomphidius glutinosus 
 Gomphidius viscidus . 
 Hedgehog mushroom . 
 Helvella crispa, . . 
 Helvella elastica 
 Helvella lacunosa 
 Himeola auricula- Judasr. 
 Hirneola polytricha . 
 Horn of plenty . 
 Horse mushroom 
 How to distinguish . 
 Hydnotrya Tulasnei . 
 Hydnum caput medusae 
 Hydnum coralloides . 
 Hydnum erinaceum . 
 Hydnum imbricatum . 
 Hydnum repandum . 
 Hygrophorus coccineus 
 Hygrophorus eburneus 
 Hygrophorus niveus . 
 Hygrophorus pratensis 
 Hygrophorus virgineus 
 Inky mushroom . 
 Jelly hedgehog . 
 Jew's ears . 
 Jew's ear in China 
 Ketchup or catsup 
 
 PAGE 
 
 173 
 27 
 90 
 
 2, 214 
 IOS 
 213 
 72 
 180 
 107 
 225 
 56 
 20O 
 198 
 
 58,78 
 
 77 
 106 
 121 
 US 
 131 
 212 
 
 9 
 218 
 202 
 202 
 
 91 
 
 158, 216 
 
 160 
 
 92: 
 
 159 
 176 
 177 
 172 
 
 35 
 
 19 
 
 168 
 
 94 
 94 
 94 
 93 
 214 
 
 137 
 135 
 136 
 
 133 
 
 134 
 
 47 
 
 95 
 
 176 
 
 177 
 201 
 
 Ketchup of Marasmius 82, 206 
 
 Ketchup of morels . 155 
 
 Ketchup, procerus . . 56 
 
 Lactarius controversus . 89 
 
 Lactarius deliciosus . . 86 
 
 Lactarius mitissimus . . 86 
 
 Lactarius piperatus . . 88 
 
 Lactarius subdulcis . . 85 
 
 Lactarius volemus . . 85 
 
 Large mushrooms . . 32 
 
 Lentinus cochleatus . . 149 
 
 List of Edible Fungi . . 225 
 
 Lycoperdon giganteum . 126 
 Maned agaric ... 44 
 
 Marasmius oreades . 77, 206 
 
 Meadow mushroom . . 31 
 
 Melanogaster variegatus . 171 
 
 Milky mushrooms . . 84 
 
 Morchella conica . . 153 
 
 Morchella esculenta . . 153 
 
 Morchella gigas . . 1 54 
 
 Morchella semilibera . -153 
 
 Morchella Smithiana . .154 
 
 Morel culture . . .156 
 
 Morels . . . 151, 215 
 
 Mushroom ketchup . .201 
 
 Mushroom powder . .213 
 Mushrooms and toadstools . 1 7 
 
 New Zealand fungus . . 178 
 Noxious species, to detect . 211 
 
 Oak tongue . . .121 
 
 Old cooking formula . . 29 
 
 Orange milk mushroom . 86 
 Ox tongue .... 121 
 
 Oyster mushroom . .138 
 
 Panus torulosus . . .150 
 
 Parasol mushroom . . 49 
 Parasol sauce ... 54 
 
 Peziza aurantia . . .181 
 
 Peziza species . . .180 
 
 Peziza venosa . . .180 
 
 Peziza vesiculosa . .181 
 
 Pickled champignons . . 83 
 
 Pickled mushrooms . . 35 
 
 Plum mushroom . . 99 
 
 Poisonous fungi . . . 206 
 
 Potted mushrooms . . 35 
 
 Potted procerus . , . 55 
 
 Procerus ketchup . . 56 
 
INDEX. 
 
 237 
 
 Procerus omelette . . 55 
 Procerus pie . . -55 
 Puff balls . . . .126 
 Red truffle of Bath . .170 
 Ring or frill ... 68 
 Russula alutacea . . 187 
 Russula cyanoxantha . . 186 
 Russula Integra . . .187 
 Russula vesca . . -185 
 Russula virescens . . 184 
 Russules . . . .183 
 St George's mushroom 34, 57, 215 
 Scalloped parasol mushroom 54 
 
 Scaly brown mushroom 
 Seasons for collecting , 
 Section cutting . 
 Shaggy caps 
 Slimy beech caps 
 Sparassis crispa . 
 Spore colours 
 Stewed mushrooms 
 Stewed parasol mushroom 
 Stuffed mushrooms 
 
 37 
 
 220 
 
 20 
 
 44 
 190 
 
 193 
 97 
 29 
 
 S3 
 36 
 
 PACE 
 
 Stump mushrooms , . . 189 
 
 Sweetbread mushrooms . 96 
 
 Terfezia leonis . . . 168 
 
 The mouceron . . . 100 
 
 The sparassis . . .193 
 
 Tree morels (Cyttaria) . 13 
 
 Trade in Jews' ears . .179 
 
 Tremella foliacea . . 197 
 
 Tremella frondosa . .196 
 
 Tremella mesenterica . . 197 
 Tremellodon gelatinosum . 95 
 
 Truffle culture . . 165, 168 
 
 Truffle dogs . . .162 
 
 Truffles . . . .161 
 
 Tuber sestivum . . .166 
 
 Tuber brumale . . .167 
 
 Tuber magnatum . .167 
 
 Tuber melanosporum . .167 
 
 Tuber mesentericum . . 167 
 
 Vegetable beef steak . . 121 
 Warted caps ... 66 
 
 Wood mushroom . . 41 
 
 TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH. 
 
1 ;■',■ '■ A v M 'A/>'AAAv/^fyv^y*yy, 
 
 $«p 
 
 £Bliftil 
 
 ■ ■ ; v ■ ■ 
 
 , mm