ASIA 
 
 
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(iJatncU Untoctattg SIthrarg 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 
 1918 
 
* 'nHraffiMiiite,**'^ •<> Europe :bein 
 
 3 1924 023 061 504 
 

The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023061504 
 
ii'll|'liiiliiii!l|iili|i'il| 
 
A LAND JOUENEY 
 
 FEOJI 
 
 ASIA TO EUROPE 
 
 BEING AN ACCOUNT OF 
 
 A CAMEL AND SLEDGE JOURNEY FROM CANTON TO ST. PETERSBURG 
 THROUGH THE PLAINS OF MONGOLIA AND SIBERIA. 
 
 Wir.LIAM ATHENllY WHYTE, F.U.G.S. 
 
 LONDON: 
 SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON, 
 
 CKOWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STEEET. 
 
 t^l8Tl. ' I 
 

 LONDON : 
 
 PRIKTED BY -WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 
 
 STAMFORD STHEBT A^'D CHARING CROSS. 
 
TO 
 
 MY FRIEND AND TRAVELLING COMPANION, 
 
 A. F. WALCOTT, Esq., 
 
 OF NEW YORK. 
 
 Teddinston, 
 
 Api-a 4, 1871. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Arrive at Hong Kong and proceed to Canton — Curious Sights 
 in the City — The Beggars' Square — The Temples — Pawn- 
 brokers' Towers— The Walls— The City of the Dead— The 
 Foreign Settlements— Macao — Agree with Mr. Waleott to 
 take the Land Journey home, through Mongolia and Siberia, 
 the only Sea Passage being the Straits of Dover — Our Outfit 
 — Sail for Shanghae — Arrival at Shanghae— The Foreign 
 Concessions — Searching for drowned Chinese Boys in the 
 English Settlement— Pusillanimous Policy of the English 
 Government— Prosperous Condition of Shanghae — Sail for 
 Tientsin — The Peiho Eiver, its intricate Navigation — Dummy 
 Forts — We arrive at Tientsin — ^Further Preparations for our 
 Land Journey — We leave Tientsin in our Carts — Hostility 
 of the Chinese — A rough Bide to Poogow — First Night in 
 our Carts in the Yard of a Chinese Inn — We arrive at Pekin 
 — Incivility of the British Embassy and kind Reception at 
 the American Legation — Dreary Appearance of Pekin — 
 Ignorance of the Literati — The Imperial City — Kindness of 
 the Russian Embassy . 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 We start for Kalgan — The Ruins of the Summer Palace — 
 Magnificence of the Great Wall — A Sand-storm — Nankin 
 Pass — Deserted Fortifications— The Wind upsets my Mule 
 Litter close to a Precipice— The Great Wall runs beside us 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 PAUK 
 
 over lofty Mountains— Descent from the Pass, and the Com- 
 mencement of the Great Desert— Wun-lie-Cheong a most 
 interesting Town— Sha-shing— A Chinaman attempts to rob 
 me at Night— Warned off by my Eevolver- Chang-chia-Kow, 
 or Kalgan, the last. Town in China Proper— The Bustle of 
 the Streets like a Scene in the 'Arabian Nights'— The most 
 prosperous Town of its Size in China— Lodged in the House 
 of a Eussian Merchant— Preparations for crossing the Desert 
 of Gobi— We engage for Guides two Lama Priests, and hire 
 Carts and Camels, and lay in all necessary Stores — Our Start 
 on the long Desert Journey— Magnificent View from the Top 
 of a Pass— Leave the Great Wall and enter Mongolia — 
 Mistake of the last Chinese Treaty . ... 34 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 The Start — In our Carts, harnessed to Camels— We shoot some 
 Hawks, to the Astonishment of the Guides, who have never 
 seen a repeating Eifle fired — Oui first Encampment^— The 
 Desert becomes bare of Pasture — We meet the first Caravan 
 from Kiachta — Purchase two Ponies of a Mongol Horse 
 dealer — The Steeds turn restive— A Tussle in the Desert — 
 Visit from an old Mongol — Hospitality of these People — 
 Their Habits and Occupations — Sunrise in the Desert — Our 
 Camels break down — ^A Mongol Venus — A Visit to one of 
 the Yourts, or Tents —Bargaining for fresh Camels— Want of 
 Water — A Mirage in the Desert— Intruders join us — Knocked 
 up at night in my Cart by one of them asking for Liquor — 
 Pire my Eevolver in reply— My new Camel turns restive, 
 and nearly pitches me out of my Cart— The Plain covered 
 with Camels' Bones — The horrible Cold of a North-easter — 
 The effect of the Atmosphere in magnifying distant Objects 
 —Attempt to steal our Camels by mounted Mongols— Wo 
 name our Mongol Lama Guides ' Monkey ' and ' Cocoanut ' 
 —The Cold increasing— Our Ponies getting starved for want 
 of Podder— More than half frozen in my Cart : the Pain of 
 being thawed— We reach Tsagan Tugurik — Vast Herds of 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Camels— We present a Mongol with some Cayenne Pepper 
 to stop begging for Whisky— Signs of Ironstone and Copper 
 Ore 78 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 How the Mongols cure a Camel's craicked Hoof— The Tartar 
 Village of Wyshan— Great Dwelling-place of Lama Priests 
 — The Country for a Eailroad from Eussia to China— My 
 Camel becomes untied from our Train, and I am left alone 
 in the Night in the Desert, without Food— Cocoanut returns 
 and finds me— A Lot of Marmots— A Plateau surrounded 
 with Eocky Mountains — Herds of Ponies, Camels, and wild 
 Gurush — Provisions running scarce, we purchase a Sheep of 
 some Mongols— A DifSculty in killing him — We kill a wild 
 Gurush— Signs of the End of the Desert — Notwithstanding 
 our Hardships, our Eetrospect a pleasant one — The way I 
 kept Time — A Storm of Sand and Stones — We visit a Yourt, 
 to warm ourselves — The half-breed Mongols bad Characters 
 — As my Head is bald I am taken for a Lama— Camels with- 
 out Water for Ten Days — My Experience as to the Kind of 
 Cart to travel with— We descend into a deep Valley— A 
 Eussian knocks us up at Night, a sign we were getting near 
 our Journey's End— The North-east Wind nearly freezes us 
 to our Carts— An Obon— A magnificent Prospect of Eocky 
 Crags at our Feet ...... 118 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 
 Our Provision Camel is lost, and Cocoanut goes in search of. 
 him — The other Camels refuse to descend the steep Incline, 
 and the Ponies scamper off — Our remaining Guide goes to 
 get Water, and we have to lead the Camels and Horses— Our 
 remarkable Appearance in our Sheep-skin Clothing" — Cocoa- 
 nut and Monkey return again with the missing Camel —The 
 Winter the best Season to do the Journey in— Pleasures of a 
 free'Life in the Desert— We cross the Eiver Toll on the Ice— 
 We reach the Chinese town of Mai-Mai-Oliin — We visit the' 
 
xii CONTENTS. 
 
 PACK 
 
 Eussian Consulate— The Vice-Consul greets us with Delight 
 — The only Europeans he had seen for a long time— We take 
 leave of the Mongolian Desert here, and enter Siberia— 
 Eussia gradually encroaching upon the whole of Mongolia— 
 Mai-Mai-Chin, the residence of the Lama King— Account of 
 the Lama King, and his Method of Succession— We taste the 
 Pleasures of Civilisation once more — We sell our Ponies here 
 and start the same Day — An unpleasant Adventure in my 
 Cart — We start against our Lamas' Wishes — Oxen engaged 
 to take us up the Mountain Pass— Queer Costume of the 
 female Driver — Perils of the Descent — We continue to 
 ascend and descend ..... . 155 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 We cross the Eivers Boro and Cara — My Cart sticks in the 
 latter Stream — We ascend the Pass of Cara — The Hills 
 covered with Pine Forests— Delightful Sensation of passing 
 through these Eorests after the flat Plain — Oxen procured to 
 make the Ascent — The Top of the Pass marked by a huge 
 Obon made of Wood and Camel's Hair — We descend into 
 another Valley — A strange Herd of Cattle — We meet Tartars 
 on Horseback — Their method of capturing Ponies with the 
 Lasso — A magnificent Prospect — My Health benefited by 
 my open-air Life notwithstanding Privations— The Country 
 becomes more popidous as we proceed— We cross the Eivei- 
 Sha-Eagol— The Cold increases and the Camels begin to fail 
 — Cocoanut in his Sleep nearly brings the Caravan to grief — 
 We enter a Pine Forest— We reach a vast Plain, at the End 
 of which appear the Spires of Kiachta . . 188 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Kiachta — The Luxury of a Eussian Bath after our Travels— We 
 visit the Commissaire Imperial— Method of conducting the 
 Postal Eoutes- Method of warming a Eussian House Fes- 
 tivals of the Jour de Nom— Curiosities of Costume in Eussiar- 
 Wemeet an Englishman— A Eussian Dinner— The Ladies' 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Eoom -Eussia the great Cigarette Country— The Eiohes of 
 the Kiaohta Merchants— The Magnificence of the Greek Church 
 —The Chinese Town of Mai-Mai-Ohin adjoining Kiachta— 
 Signs of its Importance and Wealth — T h e Yamun of the Chinese 
 Governor — We experience the Advent of Civilisation by send- 
 ing a Telegram to London— An English Dinner at last— A 
 Eussian Gentleman agrees to join us in a Tarantass on our 
 Journey to Irkoutsk — Hospitality of the Eussians— Their 
 Acquaintance with English Authors — The Bread-throwing 
 Custom — A Description of the Town of Kiachta— Expenses 
 of our Outfit and Postal Blanks for our future Journey — We 
 start in our Tarantass, and arrive at Auskiachta, where our 
 
 Eussian travelling Companion, Col. B , joins us— We 
 
 proceed onward to Korai — Tremendous Pace of our Tarantass 
 downhill ... 218 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 We arrive at the Eiver Selinga and cross it by the Ferry Boat 
 The town of Selenginsk— Disgusting Condition of the Post- 
 house — We find a Friend — The intense Cold as we proceed to 
 Obokunztske — The splendid State of the Snow Eoads, and 
 the Pace of our Tarantass, especially downhill — Gaps in the 
 Eoad and Jumps in our Conveyance— We arrive at Siehanonar 
 — We skirt along the Lake Baikal— Sudden Storms upon this 
 Lake — The Splendid Scenery— We pass through fine Pine 
 Forests — Mechia— The Site of a Battle Field between the 
 Poles and Eussians — Eeports of the dismal Condition of the 
 Eoads in advance — Jumping the Sledges over Chasms in the 
 Eoad — Sudden Change from Calm to a terrific Storm on the 
 Lake 246 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Intensity of the Cold — Horrible State of the Eoads, and dan- 
 gerous Situation of our Sledges— We reach Murmske — The 
 Beauty of the Scenery at this. Part of the Lake Baikal — We 
 arrive at Mouradeofsky, and strike inland— We cross a Branch 
 
xh' CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGIC 
 
 of theEiver Angara, the last Eiver to freeze in Siberia - 
 Irkoutsk, the capital Town of Eastern Siberia- We replenish 
 our Clothing and Stores— The Landlord of oni Hotel attempts 
 to delay us— Drunkards sentenced to keep the Snow Eoads 
 in order— We make the Acquaintance of a Eussian Oflcer 
 who agrees to travel with us to St. Petersburg- Eussian 
 Fashions with respect to Dress— Polish Exiles at Irkoutsk 
 —The Gold and Silver Mines of Siberia— Terrible Nature of 
 the Convict Labour, chiefly for politicaa Offences— Enormous 
 Eiches of Owners of these Mines— The Government Mines 
 furnish the Emperor's Income— The various Tribes in tbe 
 Neighbourhood of Lake Baikal— Different Methods of Saluta- 
 tion observed during our Eoute — A flrst-rate Restaurant— 
 —Dilatory Nature of the Town People . . 272 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 The public Sledges at Irkoutsk — We kiss our male Friends and 
 proceed — Our Eussian military Fellow-traveller is immov- 
 ably wedged with us in our Sledge — We find we have been 
 robbed whilst at the last Hotel — We reach Bokara— The 
 wedging Process in the Sledge gives us all Cramp— Our 
 Sledge breaks down — We thaw our Noses — After travelling 
 through a fine Country we arrive at Coiitoiilikskaya — Our 
 Sledge takes to sliding sideways — A warm Day, only thirty- 
 two Degrees of Frost — Our Drag breaks as we are going 
 down a precipitous Part of the Eoad — The Churches the 
 only Buildings of Importance in the Towns we pass — My 
 Leg nearly frost-bitten on a Sack of frozen Soup — Our 
 covered Sledge turned into a Stalactite Cave — Alzamayskaya 
 — The Delights of Sledging— We are terribly bumped by 
 Merchandise Sledges — Splendid Country for a Eailroad— 2%e 
 Eastern Land Eoute — We travel on the frozen Eiver Yenisee 
 
 The Town of Krasnoyarsk— Obliged to buy a new Sledge 
 
 We approach the Steppes of Baraba — A fearful Snow-storm 
 —Method of indicating the proper Sledge Eoad— We take 
 the wrong Eoute— A out-throat Peasant Host . . 292 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 PAGi: 
 
 A Collision witli another Sledge — The Conntry of Windmills— 
 The Telegraph Wires broken by the Snow — Disgusting Con- 
 dition of the Peasant Post-houses — Wolves — The Eiver 
 Irtish — We quit the Steppe of Baraba— Abstemiousness and 
 Trustworthiness of Eussian Drivers — Besroucova — Our 
 Driver nearly takes us over a Bank — Our Eussian Fellow- 
 traveller leaves everything behind him — A splendid Sunset 
 — The Country begins to improve— A Sable in view — We 
 reach the Top of the Pass of the Oural Mountains — The plain 
 white Stone that marks the Separation between Asia and 
 Europe— We arrive at Nijni Novgorod, and bid farewell to 
 our Sledges, and proceed by Bail to Moscow, and thence on 
 to St. Petersburg . ... . 320 
 
PEKIX TO KIACHTA. 
 
 ='.''".'/ !•■</ i„,f 
 
 Sea).' .if English Miles 
 
 \r7nxls ciy Fsuc' iT-ytT; S li' 
 
 London Published bv Sampson l/3\^■ Son .^ M.'irslon. IM< J. 
 
A LAND JOURNEY FROM ASIA TO EUROPE. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 Arrive at Hong Kong and proceed to Canton — Curious Sights in 
 the City — The Beggars' Square — The Temples — Pawnbrokers' 
 Towers— The Walls— The City of the Dead— The Foreign Settle- 
 ments — Macao — Agree with Mr. Walcott to take the Land 
 Journey home, through Mongolia and Siberia, the only Sea 
 Passage being the Straits of Dover — Our Outfit — Sail for 
 Shanghae — Arrival at Shanghae — The Foreign Concessions — 
 Searching for drowned Chinese Boys in the English Settlement — 
 Pusillanimous Pohcy of the English Government — Prosperous 
 Condition of Shanghae— Sail for Tientsin — The Peiho Eiver, its 
 intricate Navigation — Dummy Eorts — We arrive at Tientsin— 
 Further Preparations for our Land Journey — We leave Tientsin 
 in our Carts— Hostility of the Chinese — A rough Eide to Poogow 
 —First Night in our Carts in the Yard of a Chinese Inn — We 
 arrive at Pekin — TnciviHty of the British Embassy and kind Ee- 
 ception at the American Legation— Dreary Appearance of Pekin 
 — Ignorance of the Literati — ^The Imperial City — Kindness of the 
 Eussian Embassy. 
 
 I LEFT England by the ordinary overland route 
 on the 1st of May^ 1869, and after a very pleasant 
 journey — that is to say, taking all the disagree- 
 ables of a sea voyage into consideration — I arrived 
 
2 A LAND JOURNEY PEOM 
 
 at Hong Kong on the IGth of June, and was very 
 glad once more to put my foot on terra firma. 
 
 I had intended making my way home again via 
 Japan, San Francisco, and America, but subse- 
 quent events altered my plans. 
 
 Remaining a few days in Hong Kong, I took 
 the steamer Kiukiang to Canton, where I intended 
 remaining some little time, and reached that cele- 
 brated city all safely. I took up my residence 
 with my old friend the Venerable Archdeacon 
 G-ray, who is as well known as he is respected by 
 all European residents in China. 
 
 Canton is certainly the best city in China. 
 Although, as may be said of all cities in the Empire, 
 the streets are very narrow and ill-paved, still they 
 are clean and lined with good shops, indicating- 
 great prosperity. The people are well dressed, 
 and look well fed ; in fact, there is an air of pros- 
 perity and content reigning over the whole city. 
 Of course, as is the case in all large towns, one is 
 apt to come across sights which revolt the senses. 
 I should say the principal one in Canton is the 
 " beggars' square," where I have seen some half a 
 dozen poor wretches stretched out, barely covered 
 by mats, hourly awaiting death to relieve them 
 from their misery, some of them already in a state 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. S 
 
 of decomposition. The Chinese have no feeling of 
 pity in their nature, and consequently charity is 
 very rare with them. For a foreigner such sights 
 as the beggars' square present, are revolting, and 
 calculated to induce pity. The Chinaman would 
 look upon such feelings with contempt. Celestials 
 are not given to hold out helping hands to each 
 other. I should say they are the most selfish, 
 superstitious, money-loving people created. To 
 see Canton well would take many months — I 
 mean, to understand and remember all one can 
 see. The principal sights are the various temples, 
 among them that of the Five Hundred Wise Men 
 (or gods). Longevity, and the Emperor's temple ; 
 the walls, which go all round the city ; the 
 various guilds, pawnbrokers' towers, which are a 
 great institution in China ; jewellers' shops, &c. 
 The City of the Dead is perhaps one of the most 
 curious sights that can be seen — a city walled 
 round and garrisoned, with streets laid out with 
 rows of houses; the whole kept perfectly clean. 
 In each little house I saw one or more coffins, 
 generally of mandarins, waiting for the lucky day 
 to be pronounced by the soothsayer ere they can 
 be consigned to the earth. I believe some had 
 been there twenty years waiting the favourable 
 
 B 2 
 
4 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 opportunity. The sileuce of the whole place as 
 we wandered through the deserted streets was 
 most impressive, and I could not help remarking 
 the same, through an interpreter, to the Chinese 
 guide who was conducting us through. "Ah," 
 said he, " you should be here at night, and you 
 would see a far different sight! All the spirits 
 walk about and conduct their business as usual. 
 Why," said he, " these streets are quite full." He 
 said he had never seen them, but, being sure of 
 the fact, he never ventured out of his little cottage 
 at the gate of the city at night. I think, when he 
 told us, he grew paler, as he firmly believed all he 
 said. A company of Chinese troops garrison the 
 outer walls, as otherwise gangs of robbers would 
 carry off the coffins, and hold them for a ransom ; 
 and if there is one superstition the Chinese respect 
 more than another it is, to bury the remains of 
 their relatives properly ; and even afterwards they 
 make a yearly pilgrimage to see that the graves 
 are in order and properly cared for. I have heard 
 it said that they do it out of affection for the dead, 
 but I believe they merely do it because they are 
 afraid if they neglected the dead they would be 
 visited by their spirits, and probably not make so 
 much money as they desire. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 5 
 
 Then there are the " old man's home " and the " old 
 woman's home," separate villages ; and very dirty 
 ones they are. These are charities, but how kept 
 up I do not know. Anyhow, they do not impress 
 one with their magnificence ; the names sound 
 very well, but the realities are very poor indeed. 
 
 If I were to attempt to give any true description 
 of Cantpa and all I have seen in it, I should fill 
 up a large space, which I have not time or energy 
 to do. I can only say that all I saw was by the 
 kindness of Archdeacon Gray, who, I really think, 
 knows the city and all about it better than any 
 of the inhabitants, and who can tell you pretty 
 nearly at every corner some fact or fable connected 
 with it. 
 
 The city of Canton is situated on the right bank 
 of the noble Pearl River. Honam is on the left, 
 and further upon the right again is the small 
 island Shameen, the English and French settle- 
 ment. Most of the merchants have their places of 
 business in Honam, and their dwelling-houses in 
 Shameen. 
 
 After a pleasant sojourn of three months I left 
 Canton, paying a passing visit to the Portuguese 
 settlement of Macao, the sanatorium of the south of 
 China, so called, although for what reason I hardly 
 
A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 know, as when I was there it was awfully hot. It 
 is a great place of resort for bridal couples, also for 
 the dwellers in Hong Kong, who cross over on 
 Saturdays and return on Mondays, and indulge in 
 very sumptuous breakfasts on Sundays. There is 
 a great deal in imagination ; so, no doubt, many 
 people do fancy Macao very healthy, and conse- 
 quently do not complain so much as they would 
 in Hong Kong, which they fancy unhealthy. I 
 should say Macao was a splendid place for eye 
 diseases, for anything like the glare I never ex- 
 perienced anywhere. 
 
 The principal products of Macao are decidedly 
 very dirty and repulsive beggars. Every other 
 creature seems to be a beggar or a lunatic. The 
 inhabitants are certainly not handsome, as may be 
 expected from a mixed breed of Portuguese and 
 Chinese. The population is mainly hybrid, at 
 least seven-eighths of the people being of this 
 mixed Chinese type. On first approach, Macao 
 gives one the idea of a strongly fortified place, but 
 on inspection one finds it to be all a grand sham. 
 The walls, on which antiquated popguns are placed, 
 are painted outside, being only made of plaster, 
 &c., something like Vauxhall Gardens used in old 
 times to exhibit. Fi'om one of the batteries a 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 7 
 
 salute on one occasion was fired, and the walls 
 crumbled away instantaneously. It looks pic- 
 turesque, but is very useless. 
 
 I wonder the Chinese have never taken Macao 
 back. I should not think it would be an enter- 
 prise of much difficulty. The scenery about Macao 
 is beautiful. The situation of the town and the 
 bay reminds one very much of Naples. Of course, 
 being Portuguese, or rather Macanese, it is Roman 
 Catholic, and, from outward appearance, most de- 
 vout. Bells ringing at all hours, and half-caste 
 looking shovel-hatted priests wandering about. 
 All the rites of the Church are adhered to in most 
 exaggerated form, which really reminds one very 
 much of the sort of worship one sees in the neigh- 
 bouring Chinese temple, and seems quite as incom- 
 prehensible. The trade of Madao since the cession 
 of Hong Kong to England has nearly died away 
 and at present is most insignificant. 
 
 A day or two at Macao, as far as sight-seeing is 
 concerned, is quite enough ; so I bid adieu to the 
 beautiful spot, with its dummy forts, antiquated- 
 looking soldiers, gambling-shops, pretty boat- 
 women, beggars, church-bells, and half-caste popu- 
 lation, with their monkey-faces, reminding one a 
 great deal of the monkey-house of the Zoological 
 
8 A LAND JOUENET FEOM 
 
 Gardens, and embarked on the steamer White Cloud, 
 commanded by the well-known and deservedly 
 liked Captain Carroll, and soon found nayself 
 again in Hong Kong. I had made arrangements 
 with Mr. Walcott, an American gentleman, whose 
 acquaintance I had made at Canton, to meet again 
 in Hong Kong and discuss a project we had formed 
 of visiting the north of China^ and then making 
 our way across Mongolia to Eastern Siberia, and 
 from thence to St. Petersburg and London; so I 
 at once set out to see him. The more we talked 
 over the matter the more did we incline towards 
 Dtie journey ; and though, no doubt, there were 
 many difficulties to encounter, chiefly from the 
 approach of winter and those which always turn 
 up when travelling in uncivilised parts, still, after 
 all, the idea of travelling the whole way from 
 China to England by land, with the exception 
 of the small crossing from Calais to Dover, was 
 grand, and we definitively decided upon it. 
 
 We set to work at once to procure part of our 
 outfit, intending to complete it at Shanghae, or as 
 opportunity occurred. We intended to take as 
 little as possible with us, sending most of our 
 baggage by ship to England. We purchased at 
 Messrs. Faulker's, the well-known clock and instru- 
 
ASIA .TO EUEOPE. 9 
 
 ment makers, barometers, thermometers, &c., to 
 take the heights, &c. ; and we laid in a good 
 stock of flannels, &c. Various were the com- 
 ments made at the club at Hong Kong, and 
 various were the cocktails we drank — at least I 
 did — discussing the matter with our friends before 
 starting. 
 
 But at last we said good-bye to Hong Kong, 
 and bowled away, at several knots per hour, in the 
 steamship Suwonada, on the 25th of September, 
 for Shanghae ; and I m.ust say that I felt a sort of 
 relief that we had made a start, although, as we 
 got more at sea, and the wind, as it always seems 
 to do when I unhappily find myself on the ocean, 
 began to blow hard, my feelings were most uncom- 
 fortable ; so that, beyond knowing that we duly 
 passed Amoy and the mouth of the Foochow River, 
 although at some distance, and that the coast of 
 China is rocky and dangerous, very bold but quite 
 bare, which facts, I am sorry to say, at that time 
 I did not care a rap about, I remained tolerably 
 torpid in my cabin. However, on the 26th, as it 
 was tolerably smooth, although a strong north- 
 easter was blowing, I managed to find my sea legs 
 again and keep them ; although on the 27th it 
 blew tremendously, and demonstrated the fact that 
 
10 A LAND JOUKNEY FBOM 
 
 the steamship Suiconada was a very lively ship 
 indeed, as well as being so very comfortable. 
 Having nothing to do beyond walking up and 
 down the deck, which, besides being very mono- 
 tonous, became an operation of some difficulty on 
 account of the pitching of the ship, I overhauled 
 my outfit, and found it to consist of one dozen 
 flannel shirts, some thick socks and stockings, 
 thick underclothes, very thick short coat, revolver, 
 thirteen-repeating rifle, and small medicine-chest. 
 Of course I increased the outfit at Shanghae, but 
 we both found that we could have done with less 
 than we took, as, when in Siberia, we were able to 
 procure furs, which are most necessary. The only 
 fault we made was in not taking enough wine 
 and spirits. 
 
 On the 28th and 29 th we had to steam against 
 a tremendous north-east wind, keeping out about 
 three miles from shore, and on the 30th, much to 
 my delight, we entered the Shanghae Eiver, and 
 reached the bar at Woosung at 8 a.m., but just 
 missed the tide ; so we had to remain at anchor 
 until 5 P.M., when we were enabled to cross and 
 proceed to Shanghae, which place we reached at 
 half-past six in the evening^ and were met by 
 Messrs. Oliphant and Co.'s boat, at whose resi- 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 11 
 
 dence we received a most hospitable welcome, for 
 which I know I was most sincerely grateful. 
 
 I did feel so happy to be on shore again, as we 
 had experienced a good deal of pitching and toss- 
 ing during the five days of our trip, and besides, I 
 had suffered a great deal from rheumatism. The 
 distance from Hong Kong to Shanghae, I believe, 
 is about 820 miles. Having suffered so much from 
 rheumatism, I felt great misgivings as to my being 
 able to go on with the proposed journey ; but when 
 I thought of the miseries of being at sea, which I 
 should have to endure by going home the ordinary 
 route, I felt decidedly inclined to risk it ; and when 
 I woke up next morning, after a good night's rest, 
 feeling much better, my mind remained unaltered. 
 
 It was cold after Hong Kong, the thermometer 
 standing at 62° at mid-day. Foreign residents 
 were making ready for the winter, which is some- 
 times very severe : a fact which makes Shanghae 
 very trying, as the heat in the summer is also most 
 intense, and consequently both extremes are very 
 much felt. The country round Shanghae is most 
 uninteresting, being very flat. The banks of the 
 river are muddy and swampy, and consequently 
 fever and ague are very prevalent at certain 
 seasons. 
 
12 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 The foreign " concessions " are situated on tlie 
 right bank of the river. The first, approached from 
 Wosnng, is the American, occupied chiefly by 
 wharves, warehouses, and grog shops. Then comes 
 the English, divided from the American by the 
 Soochow Greet. This is occupied by English and 
 American merchants chiefly, and it presents a very 
 fine appearance on the river. Splendid stone 
 houses extend some distance, and in front of them 
 a fine parade, or bund, faced with stone, and oppo- 
 site the English consulate some small but pretty 
 public gardens are planted. The French conces- 
 sion follows, divided also from the English by a 
 small creek. Properly speaking there is only one 
 concession, viz., the French one, taken by force ; 
 the others are settlements granted by the Chinese. 
 
 A. very curious thing happened while we were 
 at Shanghae, in connection with the new English 
 church, which stands in the English settlement 
 and is a very handsome building. A sort of idea 
 had been promulgated, doubtless by the mandarins, 
 who are generally at the bottom of all the ill-feel- 
 ing excited against foreigners, that in order to 
 propitiate the evil spirits supposed to be feared by 
 the foreign residents six China boys and six girls 
 had been buried in the small pond in front of the 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 13 
 
 church. In order to disperse these rumours the 
 trustees had the pond pumped out, and an excited 
 crowd assembled, expecting to see the bodies. Of 
 course none were found ; had, however, some one 
 amongst the literati or mandarins had a body secretly 
 thrown in, the results would have been, no doubt, a 
 rising amongst the Chinese and a general massacre, 
 similar to the recent one in Tientsin. The excitement 
 lasted some days, and was only allayed by represen- 
 tations made to the Chinese authorities. At that 
 time all the foreign residents expected a serious row 
 with China, sooner or later, and entirely brought on 
 by the wretched mean policy of the English govern- 
 ment, which allows its own subjects to be murdered 
 with impunity. I do not believe that any consul, 
 naval, or military officer, would dare defend his 
 own countrymen, after the iniquitous manner in 
 which poor Mr. Gibson was treated for doing his 
 duty. That all the murders lately perpetrated 
 at Tientsin are due to the present English govern- 
 ment nobody in China can doubt. Chinamen 
 themselves think so. The Chinese, when they see 
 that they can murder Englishmen with impunity 
 and evade every treaty, grow bold and aggressive, 
 under the impression that England is no longer 
 a power able to protect her subjects, or is afraid to 
 
14 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 do SO ; and there is no doubt, under the present 
 guidance of English affairs, the whole community 
 in China might be murdered, and it would not 
 excite the smallest pity or action. 
 
 I was much struck with the evident signs of 
 prosperity derived from the commercial- influence, 
 which is more marked than in any other port in 
 China ; but, at the same time, I was equally struck 
 with the absence of all protection afforded to so 
 large a commerce, chiefly English, by the English 
 government. The river was full of large merchant 
 ships, trading from all parts of the globe, and dis- 
 charging their cargoes from England, America, and 
 other countries The style of living in Shanghae is 
 more luxurious than in other ports in China, and 
 one cannot help being impressed with the abundant 
 signs of wealth which are everywhere apparent, as 
 much amongst the Chinese as the Europeans. 
 The traveller, with a few introductory letters to 
 European firms, always meets with the most pro- 
 fuse hospitality. On Sunday, the 3rd, I visited 
 the church, which, outwardly and inwardly, is a 
 credit to the foreign community ; afterwards went 
 with a friend to his bungalow, situated a short dis- 
 tance from Shanghae, and saw one of the prettiest 
 gardens in China. "What with dinners, breakfasts, 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 15 
 
 and the hospitality we received from our kind 
 American hosts, Messrs. OHphant and Co., time soon 
 sped on. We also replenished our stock of clothes, 
 and laid in a store of provisions, liquors, and 
 utensils, which were to last us as far as Kiachta. 
 We also arranged our money matters by taking 
 drafts on Tientsin, trusting to further arrange- 
 ments from thence. We were to leave per steamer 
 Chili, on the 6th, so on that morning we rose 
 early, and packed up our various parcels, so as to 
 have everything handy and ready for the long 
 journey before us, and this required a deal of 
 thought and arrangement. My packages consisted 
 of three leathern bags, one matted package con- 
 taining saddle, &c., and another containing mattress, 
 blankets, rugs, wrappers, and a gun case. Boxes 
 -or trunks cannot be taken, as they do not fit the 
 camels' backs so well as bags (long canvas ship's 
 bags are the best), nor do they pack so well in 
 sledges. 
 
 To make all sure we sent all our luggage on 
 board the Chili at 6 p.m., as she was to start at 
 daybreak on the 7th. Feeling quite easy now that 
 the packing was over and baggage despatched, 
 we much enjoyed dinner and the society of a 
 few friends who were invited to meet us ; and a 
 
16 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 most pleasant evening we passed, consuming, how- 
 ever, rather a larger quantity of whisky than we 
 should have done on ordinary occasions in fare- 
 well toasts. It struck me several times that we 
 ought to make a move, although I felt no uneasi- 
 ness, as the Chili was to start at daybreak. At 
 last, at 2.15 a.m., a small pony phaeton, something 
 like a miniature dog-cart, came for us ; one of the 
 party on seating himself and taking the reins, 
 enjoyed a quiet drive by himself, the pony taking 
 him some distance before allowing himself to be 
 pulled up. On his return, we took our places and 
 proceeded, four of us, and the Chinese horseboy, 
 at a good pace towards the wharf, taking the corners 
 in fine style ; it being however, for the back seats, 
 rather difScult to avoid being shot out at sudden 
 turnings. We reached the wharf at 2.30, but on 
 the way I thought I could just perceive, dimly 
 through the darkness, the outline of a large 
 steamer slowly gliding away, and an ominous 
 foreboding came over me that it was our steamer. 
 However, it certainly was not daybreak. When 
 we arrived at our destination we. asked the 
 Chinese watchman at the end of the then closed 
 wharf, where the Chili was, who informed us in 
 an injured tone, doubtless thinking what idiots 
 
ASIA. TO EUROPE. 17 
 
 we were, " The Chili have walkee." This was a 
 pleasant position to be in : all our baggage gone 
 on unaddressed, and probably no other steamer 
 for some time. However, there was no use crying 
 over what we could not cure. It was annoying, 
 however, to find that the steamer had only left a 
 few minutes, and certainly we were told she 
 would leave at daylight. 
 
 It is generally supposed that Shanghae folks 
 are much in advance of the age; but we never 
 imagined to such an extent as to advance day- 
 break two hours. Luckily we had with us a 
 bag containing change for a few days, so we 
 felt not absolutely destitute. We returned home 
 again looking and feeling rather foolish, and 
 retired to bed, where I remained, induced by the 
 whisky over-night, until late next morning. I 
 could hardly realise the true state of things when 
 I rose on the 7th, but the sight of the small 
 supply of clothes I had soon convinced me. 
 
 We met with smiling condolences from our 
 friends, who seemed to enjoy the joke much better 
 than we did. 
 
 However, there we were, and no steamer adver- 
 tised, so we comforted ourselves with the reflection 
 that probably the Chili would have bad weather, 
 
 G 
 
18 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 which curiously we found afterwards was the case. 
 The passage money from Shanghae to Tientsin is 
 about fifteen pounds. 
 
 "We passed our time in visits to the cricket- 
 ground and bowling-alley, whose members were 
 practising, so as to give H.R.H. the Duke of 
 Edinburgh, expected shortly, a good game. 
 
 The 9th we were much cheered, as we were 
 getting anxious to get on, as the season was 
 getting late, to hear that the steamer Shansee 
 would sail on the 12th, so immediately booked our 
 berths ; and on that day, after another hearty 
 farewell, we bid our kind hosts adieu, and getting 
 on board early this time, sailed the next morning. 
 
 It was with much regret that, on the 13th of 
 October, we sailed away on board the steamer 
 Shansee for Tientsin, having so much enjoyed our 
 short stay at Shanghae. 
 
 It was still warm weather, the thermometer 
 averaging 86° at noon in the shade. 
 
 As far as the Shangtung promontory, 1700 feet 
 above the sea level, there was nothing in the 
 coast worthy of attention ; from here, however, we 
 skirted along a fine bold coast as far as Oheefoo, 
 511 miles from Shanghae, which place we reached 
 on the 14th. We found some men-of-war waiting 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 19 
 
 here for the Duke of Edinburgh, who was then in 
 Pekin. The entrance to Oheefoo is very fine. 
 Small islands on each side and hilly country; it 
 reminded me much of the south coast of Italy. 
 We left again at 1 o'clock, and steamed past 
 some very beautiful scenery for two or three miles, 
 passing afterwards through a group of islands and 
 across the Grulf of Petchelee, the sea being here, 
 which is not often the case, like glass. On the 
 15th there were strong indications of a north- 
 easter. About 11 A.M. we took in a pilot to cross 
 the bar, which we must get over before entering 
 the River Peiho. The first attempt we made was 
 a failure, we stuck hard in the mud, and began 
 to be afraid that we should not succeed, and so 
 have to wait for another twenty-four hours, which, 
 as it was now blowing, seemed no pleasant pro- 
 spect. We were drawing 12 ft. and the water on 
 the bar hardly at best tides shows so much. We 
 had to back out of the mud and make another 
 attempt, which, after a good deal of dragging, we 
 happily succeeded in accomplishing. 
 
 We could now, at some distance, discern the 
 village of Taku, and what seemed, at each side of 
 the river, formidable forts ; but on approaching 
 nearer we found that. they were only made of mud, 
 
 2 
 
20 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 and not all so strong as they looked in the distance. 
 After discharging our pilot at the Chinese custom- 
 house, a short way up the river, we proceeded as 
 far as Cocu — twenty miles. Up to this distance the 
 navigation is easy, but here a quantity of junks 
 anchored in the centre, and a bend in the river 
 like the letter S? greatly impeded us. At times a 
 whole fleet of junks persist in anchoring at this 
 spot, in defiance of all rules, and the crews throw 
 stones and even fire into steamers passing. The 
 authorities have been applied to, but with the 
 usual result in China, they having little or no 
 power over the owners of the junks. I believe 
 when Admiral Keppel last went up the river in a 
 gun-boat, the Duke of Edinburgh being on board, 
 great difficulty was experienced in passing this 
 spot, and that the Admiral intimated that if he 
 found the same state of things on his return, 
 the junks had better look out for themselves. 
 The banks of the river are flat and uninter- 
 esting, lined with large heaps of salt, which 
 look like small pyramids of earth, and here and 
 there a mud village. We passed, after Cocu, 
 through a continuation of most extraordinary 
 bends, which puzzled me how the steamer could 
 get round them. Once we steamed high and dry 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPB. 21 
 
 into a cabbage-garden, much to the disgust of its 
 Celestial owner, who, while vociferating, was nearly 
 dragged into the river by the steamer suddenly 
 backing off and pulling the part of the bank upon 
 which he was standing into the water. At some 
 places we had to fasten a rope from the steamer to 
 posts on shore, and haul round. About half-way 
 we met H.M.S. Salamis (the Duke of Edinburgh 
 on board) coming down from Tientsin. Certainly 
 the navigation of the Peiho, as a glance at the 
 map will show, is most intricate. Small sailing 
 ships do manage to get up to Tientsin, but it is a 
 long and difficult job. The bends, after passing 
 Cocu, are most difficult to get round. There is a 
 strong tide. About the middle of November the 
 river becomes frozen, and is open again generally 
 in April. There is nothing interesting beyond the 
 well-known Peiho forts, on seeing which one 
 can well understand how the disasters occurred 
 during the late war. 
 
 "We reached Tientsin at 6 p.m. on the 15th, and 
 immediately set to work to make all arrangements 
 for starting as early as possible 'the next day for 
 Pekin. The first thing to do was to procure a 
 Chinese passport, which, however, was not de- 
 manded until we reached Kiachta, and then only 
 
22 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 for our Mongol guides. This I procured through 
 Her Majesty's consul. We then hired two ser- 
 vants, who spoke Pidgin English, to go with us 
 as far as Kalgan, agreeing to pay them each at 
 the rate of fifteen dollars per month, and if they 
 gave satisfaction a present also. Two springless 
 carts were next procured, and with mules and 
 guides and plenty of provisions our arrangements 
 were completed as far as Pekin. The Eussian 
 consul kindly gave us letters to the Russian 
 minister in Pekin, and also to merchants in Kal- 
 gan, and very useful we found them. At Kalgan 
 we also procured letters of credit on merchants 
 instead of loading ourselves with Sycee silver, 
 only taking enough to last us as far as that place. 
 I found that a few hours in Tientsin sufficed to see 
 everything, there really not being anything at all 
 of interest. The city is dirty, as all are in China, 
 but this one probably carries the palm. The 
 natives do not compare with those of the south. 
 The country all round is flat and muddy. The 
 English settlement is the only thing worth seeing, 
 and with its front on the river looks well as it is 
 approached; but after the other Chinese ports 
 there is a forsaken quiet air about it, and certainly 
 it did not impress me with an idea of prosperity. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 23 
 
 The English consulate is about the best building 
 in the settlement. If I were sentenced to perpetual 
 banishment, I should look upon being sent to 
 Tientsin as an aggravation of my sentence. I 
 experienced very much kindness here from Mr. 
 Moore, an American gentleman, agent of the river 
 steamers, and it was by his assistance that we made 
 all our arrangements for departure so promptly 
 and so satisfactorily. 
 
 We left Tientsin at 3 p.m., on the 16th of October, 
 1869, in- four carts, one for each of us, one for the 
 boys, and one for our baggage. We took also two 
 ponies, which we intended riding about twenty 
 miles, and then sending back. We had mattresses in 
 our carts, pillows, and some bundles of rugs, which 
 we found very necessary, especially the latter, as the 
 carts had no springs, and the roads were all the 
 way abominable. I shall never forget the drive to 
 Pekin and the dust. The carts resembled large 
 bandboxes on wheels. 
 
 It was some time before we got clear of the long, 
 dirty, straggling town of Tientsin. The dirt and 
 filth, the wretched appearance of the streets, and 
 the unsafe appearance of several wooden bridges 
 we passed over, gave evident signs of a wretched 
 government or of great poverty. Here and there, 
 
24 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 however, standing out from the wretchedness 
 around, we noticed the substantial residences of 
 the Chinese merchants. The appearance of the 
 people indicated hostility to foreigners, as they 
 never attempted to make way for us with the 
 civility we had been accustomed to in the south of 
 China, but regarded us with scowls, and made 
 remarks, which, as we were unacquainted with the 
 Chinese tongue, we failed to understand. That the 
 evil feeling towards foreigners, steadily fanned into 
 flame by the authorities, was increasing, was a 
 notorious fact ; and a war with China, brought on 
 by the selfish policy of the English government, 
 was imminent, any one could foresee. But, as I 
 have before said, warnings are only pooh-pooh'd 
 by the wise men at home, and I think we shall soon 
 see the consequences. 
 
 It is possible to go by water to within about 
 twenty miles of Pekin, but it takes three or four 
 days ; whereas the land transit is generally accom- 
 plished in forty-eight hours, which allows a halt for 
 the night half w-ay ; we, however, did it in twenty- 
 four. We paid for our carts six dollars each, half paid 
 in Tientsin, the balance on our arrival at Pekin. 
 
 "We reached Poogow at 8 o'clock, after a very 
 rough ride, and I was very tired, and glad to dis- 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 25 
 
 mount, as the saddle was very knobby. We dined 
 in a Chinese hotel, using our own food, which the 
 captain of the Shansee had so kindly given us. It 
 was a novel life to us, and thinking over it now, I 
 am glad it was last year instead of the present one, 
 as we were entirely at the mercy of the natives. Our 
 carts and mules stood in the centre of a largfe court- 
 yard, and we were seated in a small room whose 
 furniture consisted of a table and two wooden stools ; 
 the moon shone with the most intense brightness, 
 and a scene of indescribable bustle and confusion 
 and shouting presenting itself, we felt rather be- 
 wildered. We were also under the necessity of 
 keeping an eye on our baggage cart, as several 
 Celestials, induced by curiosity and the hope of 
 finding something small to steal, were loafing about 
 in a suspicious manner. We were on our way 
 again at 11 a.m. I bolstered myself up as well as I 
 could and tried to go to sleep, but that was simply 
 impossible, for no sooner did I get into a comfort- 
 able position than I was jerked out of it ; my bones 
 Avere perfectly sore, and my head nearly broken 
 with its constant contact with the cart. Fancy such 
 roads approaching a capital town! On the 17th, 
 at 5 A.M., we reached Ho-shee-wo, or "half-way 
 place," and there we had a mild breakfast, consisting 
 
26 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 of bread and porter, and stretched our legs. We 
 both felt bruised all over. 
 
 We were off again at 6| a.m., and as we pro- 
 ceeded the roads became worse and the dust in- 
 tolerable. The country we were passing through 
 was most uninteresting, .being quite flat and very 
 barren ; only a tree here and there, and patches of 
 Indian corn. The villages, which were few and 
 far between, are made of mud. The people look 
 wretchedly poor and perfectly uncivilised, but they 
 do not mob a foreigner, as their brethren in the 
 south did. At 12.30 a.m. we made Nea-Wan; here 
 we dined, and were nearly dead with the shaking 
 we had gone through. We left again at 2 p.m., 
 and pushed on at a trot to Pekin, being afraid of 
 arriving late, as the gates close at sunset. 
 
 Never shall I forget this latter portion of the 
 journey : going at a trot over the most awful road, 
 full of holes and deep in dust ; and I felt I could 
 have cried with exhaustion and the continual 
 bumping I got. A few more miles of such torture 
 and I should have given in or gone mad. Mouth, 
 nose, and eyes were also choked with dust. The 
 approach to Pekin looked most dismal, with the 
 exception of the walls, which seemed in good repair. 
 We just arrived in time as the gates were closing. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. <i7 
 
 and entered the city, and found the roads were as 
 
 9 
 
 bad inside as outside. My friend Mr. Walcott pro- 
 ceeded to the American embassy, which he very 
 mucb wanted me to do also ; but, being a British 
 subject, I thought it better to go to the British 
 embassy, especially as I knew tbere was plenty of 
 room there. Arriving as I did at 9 p.m., balf 
 starved, and feeling most miserable, I certainly did 
 look forward to obtaining a shelter ; but the official 
 wbo received me, after casting a contemptuous 
 glance at my wretcbed appearance, refused to allow 
 me even the shelter generally accorded to a dog, 
 and turned me out in the street, where I might 
 have been starved or had my throat cut. He cer- 
 tainly did advise me to go to a Chinese hotel, but 
 where to find one was to me uncertain, and when 
 found I fear it would hardly have been better than 
 sleeping in the streets. The Duke of Edinburgh 
 having only shortly left Pekin with a large staff, 
 there must have been plenty of room, and all I 
 wanted was shelter for one night. With some dif- 
 ficulty I directed my driver to take me to the 
 American legation, where the American acting 
 minister, although his home was quite full, received 
 me with much kindness, giving me one of his own 
 rooms. My friend Walcott generously abstained 
 
28 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 from laughing at me, although he had warned me 
 against expecting any kind of hospitality from the 
 English legation ; which, however, I was not 
 willing to admit at the time, hut I now felt very 
 crestfallen and foolish, (considering that we all 
 pay taxes to support these legations, I certainly 
 can't see their object. They certainly do not pro- 
 tect British subjects or interests, as they do not 
 conceal their contempt for their own countrymen. 
 One would fancy, to see the embassy at Pekin, that 
 its members were Chinese subjects, as they ape the 
 style of the mandarins and servilely adore the 
 court. I believe the English traveller's chief diffi- 
 culties arise from the absurd obstructions put in his 
 way by British officials, simply to show authority ; 
 and he need never expect hospitality from them 
 for he will not get it. All the help and kindness I 
 received was from Americans, officially and other- 
 wise, who seem to take a pleasure in helping 
 travellers on, and not obstructing them. They 
 seem to have a sort of fellow-feeling, instead of 
 being wrapped up in lofty officialism. I believe 
 disturbances in China very often occur by the 
 Chinamen seeing the contempt with which the 
 British authorities treat their own countrymen, 
 and they are consequently induced to do the same. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 29 
 
 If I, as an Englishman, were invited by a mandarin 
 to his honse, the English consul, if he heard of it, 
 would forbid me to go, and by such means the two 
 nations are prevented from understanding one 
 another. The consul tells his government, in 
 excuse, that by allowing a British subject to visit 
 freely amongst the mandarins offence is given ; 
 while the truth is the official puts an impediment 
 in the way simply to keep up, in the mandarin's 
 eyes, a vast distinction between himself and his 
 countrymen. 
 
 An American finds no obstruction in his path. 
 I often wished that for the time I could have 
 become one. 
 
 I enjoyed the sound sleep I got, and I woke up 
 next morning feeling quite recovered, although 
 still much bruised. The distance from Tientsin to 
 Pekin, I forgot to mention before, is seventy-six 
 miles. 
 
 Pekin is now too well known for me to say 
 much about it, but I certainly must describe ray 
 impression respecting its appearance. It is a most 
 dreary melancholy place, and seems quite forsaken 
 and dead, and certainly does not compare with 
 Canton. There are some very fine buildings dis- 
 persed about, and amongst them the Temple of 
 
30 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 Heaven, but they are all now in decay, and rapidly 
 going to entire ruin. If China had an appropriate 
 motto it would certainly be the word Decay ! 
 
 When I read an account of my journey before 
 the Eoyal G-eographical Society, I stated that 
 Pekin was, without exception, the most miserable, 
 dirty, poverty-stricken town in China, and when 
 that is said it means in the world. Dr. Lockhart, 
 a well-known traveller in China, disagreed with 
 me, and mentioned the literature of China and 
 her productions, &c., as a proof that China was still 
 a great nation ; but I think he forgot that China 
 has stood still for centuries, and that what used to 
 be considered- great and civilised has been passed 
 and excelled. 
 
 To talk of Chinese literature, with the exception 
 of the works of Confucius, is ridiculous, whilst 
 Chinese scholars are the most ignorant fanatical set 
 in the country, and its universities are mere shams. 
 
 I remember seeing in Canton a military exa- 
 mination, A deep trench was dug in a circle, 
 and two targets were placed at equal distances 
 from the centre. The competitor mounted a very 
 slow pony, who trotted round the trench ; the 
 rider then approached the target, and, when close, 
 put the arrow against it, pulled the bow, and of 
 
ASIA. TO EUEOPE. 31 
 
 course each time placed the arrow successfully in 
 the target. Three times did he perform this won- 
 drous feat, and then, kneeling at the governor's 
 feet, was dubbed an officer. It was so ridiculous 
 I could hardly believe it to be true. A number of 
 English schoolboys transported to the spot, would 
 have died of laughter. 
 
 I have also seen the literati passing examina- 
 tions, and a very dirty repulsive lot they looked. 
 Each student has a separate cell, in which he 
 answers set questions quietly from a crib. How 
 any one can talk about China containing an edu- 
 cated race of men I cannot understand. It cannot 
 be denied that centuries ago, even when our fore- 
 fathers indulged in paint instead of garments, 
 they were a wonderful people, and possessed for 
 that time wonderful buildings and institutions ; but 
 they have stood still, and civilisation has left them 
 behind, and all one finds now is decay and dilapi- 
 dation. That China is rotten to the core^ Pekin 
 is now proof enough. The roads are all sand and 
 black mud, which in rainy weather become knee 
 deep. It cannot help striking the traveller what a 
 miserable government the Chinese must be to permit 
 such filth and such abject misery, which, unless 
 seen, could scarcely be imagined. The people are 
 
32 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 like animals in their habits, without any decency 
 whatever. They are taxed to the utmost to supply 
 the Imperial comforts, and purposely kept in igno- 
 rance in order to ensure their submission. In the 
 Chinese city there is scarcely a decent looking 
 house ; they seem to consist mostly of old clothes 
 shops, made of old rags and matting, where 
 auctions take place*, here and there remnants of 
 what might have been a fine building, but now 
 in ruins. Such a miserable and truly God-forsaken 
 place I never wish to see again. We both felt a 
 relief to leave Pekin behind us. The whole place 
 is like an ugly dream, and one can hardly repress 
 the indignant feelings which arise when we think 
 of the false representations English oflScials in 
 China make to the government and public at 
 home, and thus help to strengthen such a really 
 fearful government as the Chinese, and thereby 
 keep hundreds of thousands of fellow-creatures in 
 disgraceful ignorance, misery, and vice. Surely 
 retribution will some day come. There is a very 
 fine old marble bridge — which will also in course 
 of time be destroyed — from whence a view is 
 obtained into the Imperial G-ardens, and a very 
 fine view it is. 
 
 The imperial city is all walled round, and 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 33 
 
 foreigners cannot obtain admission. It contrasts, 
 as far as can be seen from the outside, very favour- 
 ably with the Chinese city. There is also a fine 
 observatory worth seeing, and last, but not least, 
 the walls, which are really splendid, in some 
 places seventy feet wide. 
 
 From the Russian embassy we received great 
 kindness, and through the assistance we obtained 
 there we got our travelling arrangements com- 
 pleted to Kalgan. It certainly did seem curious 
 that an Englishman should have to find shelter at 
 the American embassy, and have all travelling 
 arrangements completed at the Russian, when his 
 own embassy, the largest in the place, steadily 
 shut its doors against him. 
 
 I mentioned it at both embassies, and neither 
 seemed astonished, as, unless the luckless per- 
 sonage happens to be a somebody with a title, I 
 was informed it was the rule laid down at the 
 English embassy. 
 
 We laid in a few furs at Pekin, and after having 
 spent three days, during which time we had learnt 
 what dirt means, and also mud, we retired to rest 
 on the 1 9th, looking forward to an early start next 
 morning. 
 
34 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 We start for Kalgan — The Ruins of the Summer Palace — Magnifi- 
 cence of the Great Wall — A Sand-storm — Nankin Pass — Deserted 
 Fortifications — The Wind upsets my Mule Litter close to a 
 Precipice — The Great Wall runs beside us oyer lofty Mountains 
 — Descent from the Pass, and the Commencement of the Great 
 Desert — Wun-lie-Oheong a most interesting town — Sha-Shing — A 
 Chinaman attempts to rob me at Night— Warned off by my Re- 
 volver — Chang-chia-Kow, or Kalgan, the last Town in China Proper 
 — The Bustle of the Streets like a Scene in the ' Arabian Nights ' — 
 The most prosperous Town of its Size in China — Lodged in the 
 House of a Russian Merchant — Preparations for crossing the 
 Desert of Gobi — We engage for Guides two Lama Priests, and 
 hire Carts and Camels, and lay in all necessary Stores — Our Start 
 on the long Desert Journey — Magnificent View from the Top of a 
 Pass — Leave the Great Wall and enter MongoHa — Mistake of the 
 last Chinese Treaty. 
 
 We left Pekin on the morning of the 20th of Oc- 
 tober, 1869, at 8 A.M. It was a fine clear day, but 
 blowing hard from the north-east, which we felt 
 very much after the great heat of the south. We 
 were fortunately, however, ptovided with wraps, 
 which made us somewhat comfortable. Our mode 
 of travelling was in mule litters — a sort of sedan 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 35 
 
 chair, not very comfortable, being only about five 
 feet long, carried by mules on bamboos. The mction 
 is easy, but it is very difficult to climb into or 
 descend from them. Each time that we stopped 
 the chairs had to be hoisted off the backs of the 
 mules, which gives one a very unpleasant idea of 
 being capsized — an accident which indeed did hap- 
 pen to me at one of the stations. The pace at 
 which we proceeded was about three miles per 
 hour ; and partly walking and partly riding in our 
 chairs, skirting along the magnificent outer walls 
 of Pekin, we arrived at a small village at 1 p.m., 
 about a mile and a half south of the imperial 
 territory grounds of Yuen-Ming- Yuen. Here we 
 lunched off provisions we had taken with us from 
 Pekin. I would strongly advise travellers along 
 this route to provide themselves with plenty of 
 provisions, as the Chinese cuisine is not tempting, 
 even when one is very hungry. Only halting 
 here a short time, we soon made Yuen-Ming-Yuen. 
 The scenery here is beautiful, especially after the 
 flat and dreary plains about Pekin. The park 
 itself is very much neglected. The temples, which 
 must have been splendid, and the walls surround- 
 ing it, are in ruins, having been destroyed during 
 the last Chinese war. At the entrance gate, which 
 ' D 2 
 
36 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 is now walled up, are two magnificent bronze lions, 
 perfectly polished. As works of art thej pro- 
 bably stand unequalled. We got througli tbe 
 walls, climbing over a gap ; but as our time was 
 limited, we did not see much to reward our 
 exertions. 
 
 Formerly this park was open to foreigners, but 
 not long since some person, an Englishman, I 
 believe, visiting the grounds, shot a deer ; in con- 
 sequence, they have been closed against all visitors. 
 It is much to be regretted that travellers so often 
 outrage the laws and customs of the countries they 
 pass through. 
 
 From the Yuen- Ming- Yuen we could see the ruins 
 of the far-famed Summer Palace, which was almost 
 entirely destroyed during the last Chinese war. 
 This palace was formerly the summer residence of 
 the emperors of China, and before it was burnt 
 contained a very fine collection of antique curios, 
 now dispersed over the world. Nothing has been 
 done towards rebuilding it, and it stands a melan- 
 choly example of the devastating influence of 
 war. 
 
 The whole neighbourhood teems with the ruins 
 of what formerly were temples, palaces, and vil- 
 lages. The road we had passed over from Pekin 
 
ASIA TO EDPOPE. 37 
 
 to Yuen-Ming- Yuen, is made of solid slabs of 
 granite, each slab fully ten feet long, but is now, 
 as everything else in the north of China, going to 
 decay through neglect. What struck me as most 
 curious was the quantity of walls we saw, every 
 building being surrounded by a strong wall, of 
 course now in decay, and some even have two or 
 three round them. As for the walls of Pekin, 
 it seemed as if we never should get away from 
 them, so great in extent are they. Our route 
 now lay in a northrwesterly direction. As we 
 proceeded onwards, the ' character of the country 
 changed, from the flat plains which had wearied 
 us so long, to rocky and mountainous scenery; 
 but trees got more scarce, and cultivation dis- 
 appeared rapidly, none of the plants or exotics 
 which are so abundant in the south being found 
 here. 
 
 We passed the night at Quang-Shee, and were 
 glad to get any shelter, as the wind had increased 
 considerably, and threatened at times to overthrow 
 our litters. Entering the court of the Chinese 
 hotel, which was as destitute of comfort as any we 
 had seen before, but decidedly cleaner, we were 
 hoisted off' our mules, and, after seeing our baggage 
 safely stowed away, retired to rest. The distance 
 
38 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 we had made during the day was twenty-seven 
 miles, or eighty-one li. 
 
 At 7 A.M. the next day, we were all again 
 ready for a start, the wind blowing as hard as 
 ever, and the thermometer standing at 42° Fah- 
 renheit. 
 
 Having paid our bill at the hotel, which did not 
 amount to much, we resumed our journey, and 
 commenced a most disagreeable ride over a sandy 
 plain, where we were nearly smothered with sand 
 and small stones raised by the wind, which pene- 
 trated into our clothes, mouth, eyes, and even into 
 our boxes of provisions, rendering us perfectly 
 miserable for a time, and raising in me doubts of 
 my capability of crossing the desert of Mongolia. 
 However, every misery has an end some time or 
 other, and the slightest alleviation seems perfect 
 happiness. There is nothing like going through 
 a sand-storm driving in one's face for three hours 
 to make one appreciate the shelter even of a 
 Chinese hotel, and we never felt more happy than 
 when we entered the courtyard of the hotel at the 
 town of Nankow, situated at the foot of the Nankow 
 Pass. "We stopped there for one hour, to give our 
 mules a rest, as going through the pass, or rather 
 defile, is very serious work. Our direction was 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 39 
 
 now more westerly. The pass is entered through 
 a defile of high mountains, surrounded with forti- 
 fications in all directions, now fallen out of use, 
 and consequently going to decay. They were 
 originally built against the Tartars. A small dis- 
 ciplined army would easily defy the forces of 
 barbaric intruders. The road, which still shows 
 a few signs of having been regularly made, is now 
 in a state of nature, and was about the worst and 
 roughest we passed over. 
 
 It would be impossible for any conveyance with 
 wheels to pass over it, the only method being with 
 camels or mule litters. I mention this because we 
 had been told that it was possible to travel from 
 Pekin to Ohang-chia-Kow with carts. My mules 
 had two or three times nearly landed me over a 
 precipice, struggling along over the slippery stones, 
 and it is a wonder to me how they did manage to 
 get on at all, at every turn meeting a violent gust 
 of wind which nearly blew the litter over. I 
 therefore decided to walk, so toiled along over 
 rocks and stones, across streams, &c., and found it 
 as rough a walk as the most enthusiastic Alpine 
 traveller could desire. The rise is very gradual, 
 the whole length of the pass being rather over 
 thirteen miles. Here we lost all signs of verdure 
 
40 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 of any kind, and from henceforward, for an inde- 
 finite period, trees ceased to form a feature iil the 
 landscape we passed through. About half-way 
 through the pass we came to a very quaint old 
 arch ; it was impossible to distinguish any date, 
 but it was covered with carved Indian figures. 
 How it got there is a mystery. Here I began to 
 feel tired, not being yet much accustomed to walk- 
 ing, so climbed again into my litter. However, I 
 had not proceeded far when, just as we were pass- 
 ing over a very ticklish place, a tremendous gust 
 of wind caught my litter and blew it right over. 
 Luckily for me, between the litter and a precipice 
 of 700 feet or more there was a rock, and on this 
 it hung ; but being only suspended on the mules' 
 backs, I might easily have gone over. To make 
 matters worse, one of the mules commenced kick- 
 ing, and as I could not get out, and was within a 
 few inches of his feet, my position was anything 
 but comfortable, especially as I expected every 
 minute to see the litter, which was only made of 
 bamboo, part in two. By dint of great exertion 
 and a great deal of shouting, which, being in 
 Chinese, we did not understand, I was at last 
 extricated. My travelling companion, who saw 
 me go over, could do nothing, as his mules stopped 
 
ASIA TO EDEOPE. 41 
 
 in a most awkward place, and he was afraid of 
 moving for fear of going over himself. After it 
 was over we could not help laughing at the help- 
 less condition we had been in, at the same time 
 fully agreeing that it had also been very dangerous. 
 My fellow-traveller's fear had been lest his mules 
 should advance, in which case he would probably 
 have lost his balance, as the guides were both with 
 me, busily employed in shouting, which is always 
 a Chinaman's idea of getting out of a scrape ; and 
 I might well have been at the bottom of the 
 precipice while they were still arguing as to the 
 best method of extricating me from the litter. 
 One soon loses sight and remembrance of danger 
 in the contemplation of the glorious scenery nature 
 affords us, especially in this part of the world, and 
 as the ruddy tints of the descending sun cast its 
 reflection on the mountain tops and coloured all 
 around with its magnificence, our thoughts were 
 soon diverted, and we could not help feeling it was 
 worth while even risking one's life to see such a 
 sight. Imagine as wild a spot as nature can afford, 
 all around lofty mountains, and up their crests 
 gigantic walls, built hundreds of years ago, still 
 proclaiming the mighty labours of former genera- 
 tions. No signs of life or human habitation, an 
 
4:2 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 atmosphere as clear as crystal ; it seemed, as the 
 sun's glorious rays, in changing colours, lit up the 
 scene, that the presence of the Almighty was near 
 us, and involuntarily taking off our hats, we whis- 
 pered — " Magnificent !" But the deepening gloom 
 told us we must hasten on. We were then at the 
 summit of the pass, 2500 feet above the sea level : 
 nothing extraordinary as regards elevation, but as 
 regards scenery it could hardly be surpassed ; so, 
 with lingering glances on what we were leaving, 
 we descended on foot, leaving our litters and mules 
 to follow. We arrived at the village of Ohatow at 
 8 P.M., and were very tired and hungry. We put 
 up for the night, and found a comfortable hotel 
 and a good kitchen — at least, what seemed to us 
 to be so. The cold was increasing, our thermometer 
 marking 38°. If sleep is the sign of contentment 
 and of a clear conscience, such must have been our 
 state ; as after the exertions of the day, the clear 
 bracing air, and the novelty of the life we were 
 leading, the mind as well as the body was utterly 
 fatigued, and, although our bed was on bare 
 boards, no feather bed could have been more 
 comfortable to us. 
 
 Feeling the importance of getting all the day- 
 light we could, we left Cbatow at 6 o'clock on the 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 43 
 
 22nd. It was very cold, the thermometer standing 
 at 32° ; but what made it so observable was the 
 penetrating wind, which seemed to find its way 
 through the thickest clothes we could muster. I 
 have often since, when the thermometer has been 
 20° lower, without wind, felt the cold less. The 
 country we passed over was perfectly barren, and 
 not a tree to be seen ; it is in fact the commence- 
 ment of the Great Desert, although not called so. 
 Passing some old forts, all more or less dilapidated, 
 we reached at 11 o'clock the large walled town of 
 Wun-lie-Cheong, without exception the most inter- 
 esting and finest town we had seen since leaving 
 Pekin. The distance was about thirteen miles from 
 Ohatow. Just before arriving here one of our guides, 
 who was entertaining me with a long account of 
 something, to me, perfectly unintelligible, brought 
 his mule close to my litter, which his animal dis- 
 approving of, shot him over his head into a pool 
 of water, and very nearly capsized me again. Our 
 unfortunate Tartar came out of his bath very much 
 sobered, and after belabouring his mule, which 
 seemed to afford him much satisfaction, got on him 
 again as if nothing had happened. He must have 
 been very cold, as it was blowing about as hard as 
 it could. Before entering the town we crossed over 
 
44 A LAND JOUKNET FROM 
 
 a very beautiful old bridge with five arches, and 
 standing by itself, about 250 feet off, was another 
 arch, which I have no doubt, at some remote period, 
 must have been attached to the bridge then span- 
 ning, a much larger river. The town also affords 
 evidence that its former inhabitants must have been 
 industrious, wealthy people, as the walls are large 
 and solid, still in good preservation, and the whole 
 appearance of the town is better than any we have 
 seen. 
 
 For the first time for many months we now saw 
 ice, the ponds we passed being all more or less 
 frozen. We reached Sha-Shing, a moderate sized 
 walled town, where we rested for the night, having 
 made during the day about twenty-eight miles. 
 Somehow or other I could not sleep : the moon 
 shining so brightly through the windows of our 
 room, which were made of paper, and the howling of 
 the wind, kept me awake, and without being able to 
 account for it, a feeling of uneasiness grew upon me. 
 Finding I could not sleep, I was in the act of rising 
 when our door slowly opened, and a head intro- 
 duced itself, cautiously looking round the room. 
 I must say first that a sense of loneliness, so far 
 away from all civilisation, and a feeling of how 
 utterly isolated we were, gave me a dedded feeling 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 45 
 
 of fear ; but my revolver, which was close to me, 
 and upon which I knew I could rely, somehow or 
 other found its way into my hand. I never moved, 
 being anxious to see the result. I must explain 
 here that every night we were in the habit of 
 having all our baggage in our room with us, and 
 we had of necessity a good quantity of Sycee silver 
 to pay our way — more than we wanted, as it turned 
 out. My fellow-traveller was fast asleep, so I 
 waited quietly, until my Chinese friend, seeing all 
 was quiet, stole in and made his way to the bag 
 in which all our silver was. How he knew it was 
 there I cannot imagine, unless our servants had told 
 him, which is most likely. I waited until his hand 
 was on it, when I rose, and cocking my revolver 
 with a click, presented it at him. The effect was 
 instantaneous : John Chinaman dropped the bag, 
 and commenced a volley of explanations. In the 
 meantime Mr. Walcott awoke, and seeing the China- 
 man, would have shot him ; but he thought better of 
 it ; so letting him go, we put all our baggage against 
 the door. It may be well imagined that after this 
 we could not sleep. It was useless for us to make 
 an inquiry next morning ; so we left, feeling well 
 contented to be so lucky, as, had we lost our Sycee, 
 we should have been in a great strait. 
 
46 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 Two or three days in a litter takes away any 
 further desire to travel in it any longer. No in- 
 vention for giving the cramp could be more perfect. 
 So on starting again next morning we decided to 
 push on as fast as possible. But guides, all over the 
 world, are very much the sanie ; ours had all man- 
 ner of difficulties ready for invention, and proved as 
 obstinate as their own mules. We started again 
 at 6 A.M., and after a pleasant ride of five hours, 
 the wind having moderated, we came to Chi-Ming- 
 Yie, where we stopped for lunch. We walked, most 
 of the day, and began to feel now that the wind had 
 moderated, what a splendid climate we were in ! 
 Nearly all day we journeyed through a long valley 
 surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains — on the 
 west side by a long snow range. We could trace 
 the course of a river far off to the west, and the 
 only trees we could see were on its banks. We 
 were gojng over sand and stones. Villages and 
 towns are here scarce, but old forts, like Martello 
 towers, all in ruins, line the road at about two miles 
 apart. Leaving the valley, we followed the left 
 bank of the Yung-Ho for six or seven miles, going 
 over a small pass cut out of the rocks, where, re- 
 membering my former accident, I preferred trusting 
 to my legs. We saw indications of coal-mines, but 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 47 
 
 not worked at present, also copper and iron. I am 
 convinced that valuable mines exist in these parts, 
 but the Chinese government will not permit any 
 researches, "We passed large trains of camels, laden 
 with produce from Russia, which had been trans- 
 ported across the desert. The road here had for- 
 merly been good, but is now very bad. We com- 
 menced ascending gradually, and after a steady 
 walk reached Shun-hwa-Fu, about 200 feet over 
 the sea level, where we stayed the night, having 
 made about thirty miles. 
 
 The 24th of October was a splendid day. The 
 wind had entirely died away, and although it was 
 cold, the thermometer standing at 28°, after the 
 rough weather we had been undergoing it was 
 like paradise to us. We entered thoroughly into 
 the novelty of the life we were leading, and could 
 appreciate the beautiful scenery we were passing 
 through. As we wished to reach Chang-ehia-Kow 
 early we started at 3 a.m. The moon was shining 
 brightly, and cast a brilliancy on the surrounding 
 country only to be seen in similar climates. 
 Proceeding still through the long valley we had 
 entered the day before, at half-past nine we dis- 
 covered, situated down in an amphitheatre of lofty 
 mountains, the town of Ohang-chia-Kow. At first 
 
48 A LAND JODRNEJY FEOM 
 
 it looked like a collection of rocks, the roofs of tlie 
 houses all being of a stone colour. I could not 
 help feeling glad that our journey in litters was 
 now at an end, as four days of that sort of travel- 
 ling is quite enough, as they are not the most 
 comfortable style of conveyance ; but, considering 
 that we could not communicate with our drivers, not 
 being able to speak their tongue, we got on very well 
 with them, and found them willing and honest. 
 
 Chang-chia-Kow, or more commonly called by the 
 Mongol name of Kalgan, which means " entrance 
 gate," is situated in latitude 42° and longitude 116°, 
 2400 feet above the level of the sea. It is the 
 last town in China Proper, the distance from Pekin 
 being 147 miles. Very little verdure of any kind 
 is seen here, and not a single tree ; it is in fact 
 the commencement of the G-reat Desert of Grobi. 
 The population consists of 17,000 inhabitants, mostly 
 Chinese and Mongols, and about ten Russian mer- 
 chants, whose business consists entirely of caring 
 for the transportation of tea across the desert. 
 We entered the town at eleven, and a very novel 
 sight it seemed to us after the quiet life we had 
 been leading during the last four days. The 
 streets are wide, and lined with some of the best 
 shops I have seen in China. The roofs of the 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 49 
 
 houses are all made of mud, on which may he seen . 
 crops of grass, which give a very curious appear- 
 ance to the town. The streets were crowded with 
 long caravans of camels, bound to Kiachta, laden 
 with brick tea ; oxen, and carts drawn by men, 
 laden with produce from Russia, coming the other 
 way ; Mongols, camel-drivers, hurrying here and 
 there, mounted on ponies or camels, keeping the 
 stragglers together, dressed in various-coloured 
 clothes, and looking most picturesque. The sight 
 presented to us was so different to anything we 
 had ever seen before — it was like the realisation of 
 one of the scenes in the 'Arabian Nights' tales. 
 I felt thoroughly bewildered. If bustle and ani- 
 mation are a sign of prosperity, Kalgan must be 
 ranked foremost in that category, and I believe it 
 is the most prosperous town in Ghina for its size. 
 We were jammed in one of the* 'streets for fully an 
 hour, and my attention was entirely concentrated 
 on the I'ocking about of my litter as we jolted 
 against camels and carts, &c. ; but at last, by 
 taking a detour, and leaving the town by passing 
 under a low arch, before we could get through 
 which we had to descend from our litters, we got 
 clear of the Babel, and passing through the 
 suburbs noticed some first-rate Chinese houses. 
 
50 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 built witli more appearance of comfort than tliose 
 in other parts of China. Here we found the 
 house of a Russian merchant, to whom we had 
 letters of introduction, and on whose firm we had 
 letters of credit. "We hardly expected to be lodged, 
 but only wished to inquire for the best inn. We 
 were, however, most hospitably received and our 
 luggage at once unladen, and informed that, as 
 long as we liked to remain in Kalgan, we were 
 welcome to a shelter and what turned out to be 
 every species of attention. I shall never forget 
 the kindnesses I have experienced from Russians 
 throughout my journey ; but here it was doubly 
 welcome, as, utterly friendless and without any 
 knowledge of the language, we should have been 
 in a very unpleasant strait, and we could never 
 have succeeded in making the arrangements for 
 crossing the desert, so well or so quickly as we 
 did, without their aid. The Mongols believe that 
 Mongolia is the centre of the world, bounded by 
 China on one side and Russia on the other ; and 
 it would be perfectly useless to try and persuade 
 them that there are other nations. They have 
 a great respect for Russians, and it is always 
 necessary to pass for one in order to facilitate 
 ti;avelling in this part of the world. It is next 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. r,l 
 
 to useless for any Englishman who miiy be inclined 
 to make this journey to go to Kalgan without 
 introductory letters to some Russian merchant. 
 It is no easy matter to make proper arrangements 
 for speedily crossing the desert even then ; but to 
 attempt to do so without Russian aid is simply a 
 waste of days and days, and probably double the 
 expense, and then with a most imperfect result, 
 as, without exception, the Mongols are the most 
 difficult race of people to make a bargain with I 
 have ever met. Having paid the balance due 
 to our mule drivers, and given them drink-money, 
 which delighted them very much, we felt perfectly 
 easy in our minds as to the future. But here an 
 unforeseen difficulty appeared, as our hosts could 
 speak nothing but Russian and Chinese. Luckily 
 our Chinese servants became valuable as inter- 
 preters, and they were of great use to us. It is 
 necessary, and I say so from experience, to engage 
 a good servant at Tientsin, as it would be next to 
 impossible to get on at all without their assistance 
 on the road, especially at the inns, where it is indis- 
 pensable to speak Chinese. We committed an extra- 
 vagance in taking two servants, as one would have 
 been sufficient; but still I do not regret having done 
 so, considering the real assistance they were to us. 
 
 E 2 
 
52 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 I never could make out whether our kind Rus- 
 sian hosts were under the impression that we, as a 
 daily custom, were in the habit of eating five or 
 six times a day, or that our appearance, which was 
 decidedly a hungry one, denoted a necessity for 
 constant feeding ; but I can only say that, during 
 the few days I remained there, we seemed to be 
 constantly having breakfast or dinner or supper. 
 Perhaps they knew better than we did what was 
 before us in Mongolia, and wished to start us in as 
 good a condition as possible, A room was placed 
 at our disposal with a sort of raised dais at one 
 end, on which we placed our mattresses. This is 
 the general kind of sleeping-room throughout the 
 north of China. Our luggage, which we at once 
 commenced unpacking, we grouped around the 
 room, so as to concentrate all we had into as small 
 a compass as possible. After being out in the 
 open air for so long we found the atmosphere of 
 our room nearly intolerable ; it was heated up by 
 an immense stove, and the windows, which are 
 double ones, hermetically sealed ; so that a change 
 of air during the winter months never penetrates 
 through the rooms. 
 
 We were interrupted by our host, whose know- 
 ledge of English was limited to the words " Drink. 
 
ASIA. TO EUEOPE. 53 
 
 tea," to which invitation we cheerfully responded, 
 not having eaten for twenty hours. Here we 
 first made acquaintance with one of the greatest 
 Hussiati institutions, the samovar. It is a large 
 sort of urn ; in the centre is a tube into which 
 hot coal or charcoal is introduced, which keeps it 
 constantly boiling. The method of making and 
 drinking tea is also very agreeable. In a small 
 tea-pot a strong infusion, nearly essence of tea, 
 is made ; a small quantity of this is poured into 
 tumblers, and each guest adds water and sugar 
 ad libitum. Whether it is that the tea in Russia 
 is much better than we get in England, or that 
 the method of drinking it is better than ours, I 
 know not, I can only say that I never tasted its 
 equal before, and never hardly for years imbibed 
 so much as I did during my short stay at Kalgan. 
 The Russians say that the tea which makes only a 
 land voyage is much superior to that which passes 
 over the sea, and I am inclined to their opinion ; 
 also, that their method of making it for drinking 
 is the right one. We generally carried cold tea 
 with us, which we found much better than spiiits 
 or wine of any kind. 
 
 The Russian cookery is certainly not much 
 adapted to our tastes, every dish being more or 
 
54 A LAND JODENEY FEOM 
 
 less made with oil ; but it is a well known fact that 
 nothing is a better preservative against cold than 
 oil — ^far better than spirits. I have no doubt that 
 had I been invited in the ordinary course of life 
 to partake of the dishes set before us I should 
 have declined them ; but hunger and exercise, in a 
 climate which of itself gives an appetite, are 
 w^onderful levellers, and I do not think that I ever 
 enjoyed a meal so much as I did that identical 
 breakfast, and had not my travelling companion 
 stopped me I should have probably drank as 
 much tea as the young lady in the ' Pickwick 
 Papers.' Our breakfast being finished, we now 
 set seriously to work so as to make our arrange- 
 ments for crossing to Kiachta as soon as possible. 
 We were afraid of delaying as it was quite late 
 enough in the season, and every day the cold 
 winds in Mongolia became more intense. 
 
 Certainly our first impression of the Mongols 
 was decidedly favourable ; they seemed thoroughly 
 good-natured, honest, and simple, and we began to 
 congratulate ourselves on the prospects of getting 
 two good guides. The Chinese, physically, com- 
 pared with the Mongols, are very inferior, espe- 
 cially those in the north ; as regards cunning and 
 intelligence, they beat them a long way, but in 
 
ASIA TO EUBOPB. 55 
 
 making a bargain, or rather, I would say, in 
 coming to terms, the Mongols carry the palm 
 over all other nations. 
 
 Squatting down on their haunches, you may 
 argue all day, or try to convince them, without 
 success. For two hours did our hosts — taking 
 no end of trouble, talking Mongol to the Mongols, 
 Russian to his partner, and Chinese to our boys, 
 who finally interpreted the sense to us — try to 
 arrange proper terms with two Lama priests, but 
 without the slightest success, although they listened 
 most attentively, simply shaking their heads at 
 intervals as sign of refusal. They then tried 
 another guide, thinking it was good to create op- 
 position ; but it was of no use. I began to despair 
 of ever arranging matters, but our friends told us 
 not to be impatient — that it always took a day or so 
 to convince a Mongol mind. The room was now 
 full of Mongol chiefs. Lamas, &c., all of whom had 
 heard that we were going to cross. The difficulty 
 seemed to be that each of these various parties 
 owned large caravans of camels, and were not wil- 
 ling to divide them. We only wanted six, and those 
 who owned twenty to one hundred naturally did not 
 care about going with us, and leaving their other 
 camels behind, as sooner or later they were sure to 
 
56 A LAND JODJmEY FEOM 
 
 find employment for them, the demand at this 
 season being always very great for transporting 
 tea to Kiachta. The camels are really only in 
 travelling condition during the winter months, at 
 the end of which time they are turned out to 
 graze on the grassy slopes of Western Mongolia. 
 Their two humps, when out of condition, lie flat 
 down on their backs, whereas they become erect 
 when fit for travelling. This condition is always a 
 good test of a sound camel, and, in choosing, these 
 signs should be strictly adhered to. When tra- 
 velling they require very little food and scarcely 
 any water, which latter they never get when on a 
 constant voyage, as it puffs them out and makes 
 them lazy. They are possessed with the most 
 remarkable patience and endurance, and will walk 
 along at the rate of two miles and a half per hour, 
 with a long swing, without apparent exertion. 
 When a camel is to be laden, the driver pulls a 
 string, which is tied to a stick through the nose, 
 and making a curious sort of a cry, the animal 
 gently kneels down, first on its fore legs, and 
 then quietly lets its hind legs down under it. The 
 cargo or luggage is then suspended on a sort of 
 wooden saddle covered with skins (great care 
 being taken to avoid chafing the humps, which 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 57 
 
 quickly renders them useless), in equal weights on 
 each side, which is sufficient to keep it in its place, 
 each cainel carrying about four hundredweight. 
 To make them rise, the driver again touches the 
 nose-string, and with a wail like a child the 
 huge ungainly animal rises abruptly, first on its 
 hind legs. When mounting for riding it is neces- 
 sary to know this, as without it the would-be rider 
 finds himself flying over the camel's head. The 
 motion of riding I have often heard compared 
 to being at sea, and as being equally provoca- 
 tive of nausea. I never found it so, it seemed 
 remarkably easy and comfortable. A caravan 
 proceeds in a long line, each camel's nose-string 
 being loosely tied to the hind part of the saddle 
 of the preceding one ; the string is never made 
 firm for fear of breaking the nose, wliich renders 
 them nearly useless, there being no other part of 
 the body where a leading-string could be attached ; 
 but they only require the slightest tension of the 
 string to keep them on their monotonous motion, 
 which however stops the moment it becomes lax. 
 
 The camel certainly is a wonderful animal ; it will 
 work steadily across the desert eighteen hours a 
 day, for thirty days, with scarcely any water, and 
 with the little fodder which the desert affords. 
 
58 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 They are entirely adapted for this part of the 
 world, being only of service on flat plains^ as on 
 rising groxmd they are nearly useless. It is cer- 
 tainly a proof to any real thinker of the wonderful 
 fitness of all things in this world. It is the very 
 animal adapted to the place and is useless else- 
 where, and requires little or no care, sustenance, 
 or shelter. 
 
 We now tried a third party of Lamas, who 
 seemed more inclined to come to terms, but still 
 without success. I was not sorry at this moment 
 to hear that dinner was ready, it now being three 
 o'clock, as I was becoming rapidly confused by the 
 various languages spoken, and could hardly gather 
 the purport of the parley as interpreted to me. 
 The shades of evening were falling, and the lofty 
 mountain situated in front of the house, over whose 
 crests we could trace parts of the celebrated great 
 Wall of China, with its towers and gates, stood out 
 in bold relief It was wonderful how fine the out- 
 lines of the hills were rendered by the excessive 
 clearness of the atmosphere. The cold warned me 
 (I was then standing in the verandah) that I had 
 better retire into the house. It also began to make 
 me feel doubtful as to my outfit for crossing the 
 desert. It was very strange indeed to us to feel 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 59 
 
 cold after the fearful heat we had been enduring 
 in the south, but, I must say, a very pleasant 
 sensation. 
 
 Washing is a custom observed in this part of 
 the world, but only under peculiar circumstances. 
 Finding no implements necessary for ablutions in 
 our room we shouted for the servant, and by dint 
 of signs, rubbing our hands together as if washing, 
 &c., at last made his very slow brain comprehend 
 us. Beckoning us into the hall, he introduced us 
 to a queer sort of a machine, which proved to be 
 the family washing apparatus. He left us there to 
 our reflections. Looking all round it, I failed to 
 discover any method of getting water out of it. 
 It was a sort of brass barrel attached to the wall, 
 and, underneath, a huge copper basin. Taking off 
 the cover, I could see water inside, but how to get at 
 it still remained a mystery. Suddenly I discovered 
 a sort of button underneath, which looked like an 
 ornament ; without the remotest idea that this was 
 the tap, I pressed it, and out came a volume of 
 water right down my sleeve, which was more than 
 I wanted. However, by holding my finger up- 
 wards, and pressing the button, my friend holding 
 the basin, we had nearly filled it, when we were 
 interrupted by a laugh from our Russian host, who 
 
60 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 was standine: behind us. He then taught us the 
 method of using this quaint machine. You press 
 the button with the hand gently ; some six or 
 eight drops of water fall into the hand, which you 
 transfer to the face. This being done, a family 
 towel, which, however, is not very necessary for 
 the amount of water, hangs conveniently beside 
 you. A sort of a rub on the hands completes the 
 effort ; in fact, what is generally called a dry wash. 
 However, as we got accustomed to this apparatus 
 we squandered the water fearfully — so evidently 
 thought our Chinese domestic. 
 
 Finding we still could not arrange for camels 
 we proceeded in the moonlight to the yard of a 
 cart contractor, and without much difficulty picked 
 up two old conveyances, which we were to have 
 the use of to Kiachta, paying here for them 
 the very moderate sum of fifteen taels each, or 
 £4 10.S. We found out, afterwards, that it is 
 better to hire than buy a cart, as it saves all 
 trouble of disposing of it at Kiachta ; but I must 
 say from experience that were I ever to cross the 
 desert again, which may the Fates forbid ! I should 
 go to the expense of having a first-rate cart built. 
 It should be fully six feet long. Mine, which 
 looked like an old bathing machine on two wheels 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 61 
 
 without springs, was only five feet six inches long 
 and three broad, so that I could never once stretch 
 myself out at full length — a state of affairs which at 
 times became unbearable. It is necessary to have 
 a good cart, as, journeying all night, it makes a 
 tolerably decent sleeping conveyance. It should 
 be made as light as possible, to open at the side, 
 as the wind blowing from the front comes through 
 any opening there, and windows, provided with 
 shutters, in case the glass breaks, v/hich it in- 
 variably does; plenty of hooks, a shelf, and I 
 should advise it to be four, feet broad. Our carts 
 were to be entirely put in order, relined with felt, 
 and all cracks, &c., made good by the next day at 
 5 P.M. 
 
 When we returned we found two Lama priests, 
 who had been quietly digesting our offers, ready 
 to make the following terms, but not until we had 
 gone through another hour's wrangle. It was 
 arranged that we were to start on the 28th. They 
 were to give us six camels, and make good if any 
 should break down on the way. If we arrived in 
 Kiachta in twenty-three days, we were to pay 
 them 100 taels, including everything ; in twenty- 
 two days, 104 taels; in twenty -one days, 110; 
 and in twenty, 114 ; but for this we said we 
 
62 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 would give 120, so as to spur them on ; if twenty- 
 four days, only 96 taels; and each day longer, 
 4 taels less. We were to pay down 100 taels, 
 and receive an agreement from them, written in 
 Russian and Chinese, stamped by the Chinese 
 authorities ; and it was agreed, if over time on 
 arrival at Kiachta, that we should sell one of their 
 camels, and deduct from the price it realised the 
 amount of forfeiture. 
 
 A load fell off my mind, as I had anticipated 
 that days would be lost before we could have 
 arrived at so satisfactory an arrangement. With- 
 out our Russian friends we should never have 
 succeeded. The trouble they took was very great, 
 and, although I could only express my sincere 
 gratitude to them in English, I am sure they 
 understood the sense, if not the exact meaning, of 
 my words. 
 
 It was amusing how we got on with our Russian 
 friends by signs, and before we left them we had 
 established a code of signals comprehensible to 
 both sides. It was extremely ludicrous at times, 
 but it afforded us much enjoyment and food for 
 laughter. Having partaken of our fifth meal at 
 eight o'clock, when we were obliged to eat of 
 everything for fear of offending our host, I retired 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 03 
 
 to our room, and, to my great disgust, found the 
 large stove blazing away with an enormous fire, and, 
 as we could not open the windows, we were half 
 stifled. However, the sense of having done a good 
 day's work and a feeling of ease as to the future 
 lulled me to sleep. Rising early next morning we 
 first of all arranged our baggage, so as to have all 
 handy in our carts, dividing the stores between us 
 in case it should become too cold to picnic together 
 in the wilderness. We then ordered each a large 
 goat-skin cover, two pairs of felt socks, and a fur 
 cap, such as are worn by the Mongols themselves 
 (it covers the head and face, except the eyes). A 
 list of stores, &c., which our kind hosts prepared 
 for us, may prove useful to future travellers by this 
 route : A teapot, a large saucepan, one cup, one 
 large bowl, candles and a Chinese lantern, a 
 hatchet, and plenty of rope ; bread, meat, vege- 
 tables, sugar, and a few bottles of wine and spirits, 
 which we found, to our sorrow, fell short on the 
 way, plenty of biscuits, good thick sheepskin 
 coats, and plenty of pillows, completed our outfit. 
 
 All our wants now being supplied, we took a 
 walk round to the yard to see after our carts, and 
 found carpenters busily engaged refitting and 
 making them strong ; so we had only to make 
 
64 A LAND .JOURNEY FRO]\r 
 
 a few suggestions as to comfort. After the usual 
 lunch and tumblers of tea, we inquired for ponies, 
 as, having our saddles with us, we thought it would 
 much relieve the monotony of our journey. Two 
 very good ones were soon shown us, and as we 
 intended paying a visit to Mr. Yulick, an Ameri- 
 can missionary who resides in the city, we signified 
 our intention of riding them there on trial. But 
 this was easier to imagine than to accomplish, as 
 Tartar ponies, fii-st of all, are not accustomed to our 
 saddles and bridles, and secondly, object decidedly 
 to do any thing against their own will. A short 
 trial of who was the strongest, enforced by a good 
 whip, soon brought them to terms, and we pro- 
 ceeded quietly to the city. We found the road very 
 rough and dirty, and we had much difSculty in 
 getting past the long strings of camels and ox 
 carts, but at last we arrived safely at our desti- 
 nation. Mr. Yulick was very pleased to see us, as 
 it is not often that foreigners have been so far. 
 He kindly wrote us down a list of words and 
 phrases, which turned out to be of great service to 
 us in the desert. Eeturning again, and sqTieezing 
 through the streets, we found the owners of the 
 ponies waiting ; but as they asked fifty taels for 
 each, which was much too dear, we decided to 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 65 
 
 wait, as we were told that in the desert we could 
 buy good ponies for ten taels, which proved to be 
 the case. The spluttering samovar again absorbed 
 our attention. The day being still young, and just 
 the weather for walking, we ascended the hill in 
 front of our house and visited the Q-reat "Wall, 
 the height we reached being about 4000 feet 
 over the sea level. The wall itself we found in 
 ruins, but still it gives a good idea of what it must 
 have been. Its extent, according to the Chinese, 
 is upwards of 3000 miles ; probably however this 
 is an exaggeration. In some parts it runs along 
 the tops of high ridges and mountain peaks. 
 How the bricks and stones were carried up is a 
 wonder. I must say, having heard so much of 
 this wall, I was very much disappointed with it, 
 I scarcely know why. I do not think, except 
 to say that one has been close to it, that it repays 
 even a climb up the hills to see it, This I am 
 afraid is considered a species of heresy by those 
 who have never visited it, but by those who have 
 I do not doubt my opinion is approved. But the 
 scenery, taking the v^all itself out of the question, is 
 superb, and that certainly does repay the traveller 
 all the discomfort he may have gone through in 
 order to arrive at this spot. 
 
66 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 This was to be our last evening, and I could not 
 help feeling a sensation of extreme loneliness steal- 
 ing over me when I reflected how long a time we 
 should probably be without seeing any traces of 
 civilisation, and through what an unknown country 
 we were going to pass twenty-three days, and 
 amongst a nearly unknown race of people. How- 
 ever, it was now too late to think of receding — not 
 that for one moment did such a desire come over 
 me. A mutual attachment had sprung up between 
 our kind friends and ourselves, and we may be 
 forgiven if we bid a rather sorrowful good-night 
 to them. 
 
 I could hardly sleep during this night, so rose 
 early in the morning of the 26th and took a short 
 stroll before breakfast. The thermometer showed 
 ten degrees of frost, and the bracing pure air soon 
 drove away any dismal thoughts I had been in- 
 dulging in. It is curious, when we are so far away 
 from home, especially in a barbarous country, and 
 not knowing how and when, or indeed if ever, 
 we shall see it again, how intensely we long to 
 be there, and how greatly miagnified seem to be 
 the difficulties of the route. And when it is all 
 over and forgotten how anxious we feel to be off 
 again ! 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 67 
 
 At 10 AM. our camels appeared, and we were 
 pleased with their appearance. Our whole baggage 
 only weighed four hundredweight, which we di- 
 vided between two camels, being only half of the 
 quantity they ■syere accustomed to carry. We then 
 sped them on their journey, we intending to follow 
 four hours later in our carts, which were to be drawn 
 over the steep pass of Kalgan by ponies, as camels 
 are of no use for this purpose. The latter animals, it 
 was arranged, should wait for us at the commence- 
 ment of the desert. Having partaken of a final meal 
 — which, with a presentiment of short commons for 
 many days, we made a good one — we wished our 
 kind hosts, through the medium of our servants, 
 adieu. We bad • passed a very happy time with 
 them. I do not believe that under any circum- 
 stances could we have received more genuine kind- 
 ness than we did, and it was difficult for me to 
 express my sense of it ; a lump would rise in my 
 throat, which I could not prevent. After kissing 
 all the men, on the lips — I would much have pre- 
 ferred kissing the ladies — we passed through the 
 door^ when our Russian host solemnly devoted us 
 to the care of the Almighty, and wished us every 
 happiness. They then all accompanied us about a 
 
 V 2 
 
68 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 mile on our way, and finally bade adieu. We walked 
 steadily ahead without speaking for some time, the 
 state of our feelings not allowing us to break silence. 
 We were followed by our carts. But as the gran- 
 deur of the scene broke upon us, and the glories of 
 the atmosphere shone round us, we cheered up, 
 and, throwing all sense of loneliness away, we 
 soon began to speak cheerily and make speculations 
 as to the journey before us. The road was tre- 
 mendously rough, full of rocks and stones. Before 
 starting I had arranged my cart in a most scientific 
 manner, hanging up all I should require on nails, 
 and arranging my pillows and wraps as comfortably 
 as possible. Jolt, jolt, came the springless cart over 
 the stones, and never for a moment did I irjiagine 
 the awful efiect it was producing on my arrange- 
 ments, over which I had spent so much trouble ; 
 but feeling tired, we thought to try our carts. I 
 heard an exclamation of horror from my friend as 
 he climbed into his machine, and another burst 
 from me as I got into mine ; for every single thing 
 lay in the centre of the cart — pillows, rugs, brushes, 
 all jumbled up together ; candles flying about, and 
 a bottle of sherry broken into small atoms. One 
 of the windows was also broken : an incalculable 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 69 
 
 disaster, as I had no means of repairing it, but had 
 always in future to stuff a pillow in, or I should 
 have been frozen. As fast as I endeavoured to 
 put things in order again they were bumped out 
 of their places ; so I resigned myself to my fate, and 
 tried to rest comfortably in the midst of this con- 
 fusion. But I could not stand it very long, being 
 thrown about in all directions, and having my head 
 nearly broken by a large bag, which still remained 
 suspended, falling upon it. With a great deal of 
 effort I extricated myself from the cart, preferring 
 to walk all night rather than endure such torment 
 any more. I found my companion had also de- 
 scended from his cart, so we walked along at a good 
 pace, the increasing cold — all the ponds we passed 
 being frozen — keeping us from loitering. 
 
 We reached the summit of this truly magnificent 
 pass at 6 p.m., and although it is only 6500 feet 
 above the sea level, for scenery it stands alone in 
 its glory. I have been over many passes in my 
 life, but never have I seen such a sight as burst 
 upon us when, reaching the summit, we halted 
 to gain breath. As far as the eye could reach, 
 ranges of hills and snow-clad mountains, like con- 
 fused waves tossing on the ocean, rose before us. 
 
70 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 We could trace the Great Wall, extending its span 
 over the mountain tops, and could see the various 
 towers standing solitary in their ruins. A valley 
 lay at our feet, through which, like a silver line, a 
 small river was wending its way, and the path we 
 had been toiling up for four hours we could dis- 
 tinctly discern. The scene, in wildness, surpassed 
 anything that the most fertile imagination could 
 dream of, so utterly rugged and variegated was it. 
 We stood in its midst, the only evidence of life ; 
 and deeply feeling the grandeur of all we saw, and 
 remembering that all these wonders were made for 
 man, we were overpowered. 
 
 The sun was now setting, and it would be im- 
 possible for me to describe the magnificence of the 
 now changing panorama before us. The perfect 
 clearness of the atmosphere, the deep purple on the 
 hills, and the ever-changing colours cast by the 
 declining sun on the mountains around us, were 
 perfectly bewildering, and we could only hold our 
 breath and wonder. If such a picture could be 
 painted, few people would believe that it was a 
 faithful transcript of nature. I only wish that I 
 could write all that I felt then, and give but a 
 slight account of the scene. But my pen fails me. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 71 
 
 and could never do even the slightest justice to 
 the scene. I can only say that from this moment 
 
 1 felt that to witness this sight repaid us for going 
 through double the discomforts and exertions that 
 we had passed through. Tearing ourselves away, as 
 the darkness now rapidly descended over the scene, 
 we passed through the Great Wall and found our- 
 selves in Mongolia. Leaving China behind us, we 
 entered our carts again ; as we were descending the 
 ponies proceeded at a trot. I forbear to mention 
 the agonies we suffered, until we arrived, at twelve 
 o'clock, on the sandy plains of the desert, having 
 made thirty miles. We here found our camels and 
 guides waiting for us ; a tent pitched, a comfortable 
 fire, and some hot water simmering in a huge sort 
 of kettle, which, with a little whisky, somewhat 
 cheered our bruised bodies. As we were to start at 
 
 2 A.M. I retired into my cart in order to get a little 
 sleep, having somewhat arranged it, intending to 
 make it more comfortable when daylight should 
 appear. 
 
 Before finally bidding adieu to China, as we 
 passed through the Great Wall, I suspend my narra- 
 tive for a short space, and with the reader's per- 
 mission, ere I enter Mongolia, would make a few 
 
72 A LAND JODENEY FEOM 
 
 brief remarks regarding our present relations with 
 China, and recent events which have occurred in 
 connection with them. When the last treaty was 
 ratified, in October 24, 1860, called the ' British 
 Treaty,' certain conditions were stipulated upon. 
 Other nations, to a great extent, came in also under 
 this treaty, and so it has been the case that Chinese 
 officials have learned to look upon England as the 
 representative foreign power in China. Now, when 
 England withdraws her fleet, neglects to protect 
 her subjects, snubs her consuls for doing their duty, 
 — vide Mr. Gribson, who, for doing his strict duty 
 was snubbed and disgraced, and died of a broken 
 heart. But what of that ? Peace to his remains ! 
 To save the nation perhaps a few thousand pounds, 
 a fleet, which is necessary, is gradually allowed to 
 die out ; and when war comes, as come it will, an 
 outlay will have to be incurred costing a million, 
 just through this little penny-wise proceeding. 
 Other nations ask. Why did England take prece- 
 dence if she had no intention of keeping up the 
 treaty ? When Chinese mandarins see signs of 
 weakness in England all nationalities suffer alike, 
 as they discern no difference in the foreigner. It is 
 to be presumed that the trade with China is worth 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 73 
 
 keeping up. Tea and silk are very necessary com- 
 modities to England. The export trade from Man- 
 cliester and other manufacturing towns is large 
 and increasing. It is downright short-sighted 
 policy we are pursuing with the Chinese, and it 
 will be found out when new complications arise 
 and other powers take the lead out of our hands. 
 I believe many old residents in China look upon 
 a row as certain in a year or two. Many of the 
 most intelligent and most respectable among the 
 Chinese merchants do, and deplore it much. 
 
 I would never advocate force of arms, but would 
 make the Chinese oiScials see that we are determined 
 to make them stick to the treaty. A war with 
 China would be a far different affair to the old one. 
 They are now well armed, their forts are rebuilt, 
 and they have learned much in discipline and 
 military art from us and other powers. 
 
 That any statesman could have received the 
 Burlinghame mission is, and will always remain, a 
 marvel to those who know China well. The man- 
 darins hardly expected it, and must have laughed 
 considerably in their sleeves at the result. The 
 treaty is " addressed from the Emperor of China, 
 the whole world, sun, moon, &c., to the tributary 
 
74 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 powers of the west." The Chinese who accom- 
 panied Mr. Burlinghame were not first-rate. It 
 would be a curious embassy if a Chinaman were 
 sent to Pekin to represent England, and, of course, 
 it would not he accepted ; but not a bit more than 
 that an American should be sent from Pekin to 
 negotiate a treaty for China with foreign powers. 
 It is simply an insult, and a mere ruse, to enable 
 the Chinese authorities, when it suits their con- 
 venience, to ignore a treaty so negotiated, saying, 
 with perfect truth, that it was arranged by a 
 foreigner. It states also that the Chinese are 
 daily advancing in civilisation, that they are ami- 
 cably inclined, and well disposed towards foreigners. 
 This is so far untrue as the writer^ on various occa- 
 sions, only a few miles in the interior, has been 
 very roughly treated : a clear proof of the good 
 disposition of the Chinese towards foreigners. The 
 mission is a sham and a blind, and this time will 
 show. The age has passed for a community of 
 intelligent merchants who reside in China to be 
 classed as pirates and smugglers. Although they are 
 still designated as " irate traders," some deference 
 should be paid to their opinions. People on the 
 spot generally know more about the country than 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 75 
 
 those who have never been there ; and those 
 people, with few exceptions, condemn entirely 
 England's present policy, and the acceptance of 
 the Burlinghame mission. I hope, in making this 
 brief digression, I have not exceeded my reader's 
 patience ; but I cannot help looking upon this 
 subject^ so full of important interest, as not under- 
 stood in England. Can it be doubted that it is a 
 question of serious import, whether we shall con- 
 tinue to hold our own in China, or allow other 
 nations to gradually absorb the trade which it has 
 taken so much trouble and expense to create ? 
 
 There are only a few more subjects that I would 
 allude to before closing this chapter, and one of 
 them is the maintenance of an English church at 
 the open ports. 
 
 At nearly every open port an English church 
 exists, which government had formerly afforded a 
 small support to, amounting in all to some three or 
 four thousand pounds per annum. It does incal- 
 culable good, not only by example, but as a proof 
 of England's reverence for religion, and excites 
 admiration amongst all classes and sects of the 
 communities who attend its services on the Sabbath. 
 At some of the ports, where the residents are few, 
 
76 A LAND JOOENEY FEOM 
 
 it has, even with this aid, been found very difficult 
 to keep up the building and maintain the chaplain. 
 But to save a few pounds, which would be spent in 
 a few trips of a new gunboat, the government has 
 withdrawn this small grant, and so virtually closed 
 the only buildings where, at each port, residents of 
 all classes were accustomed to meet every Sunday 
 and worship the Almighty. I have heard dis- 
 senters from the Church of England regret this, 
 as, although differing from her doctrines, they look 
 upon the existence of a church at each port 
 as a proof to the Chinese mind of the fact of 
 Chi'istianity. 
 
 Another and last remark is, with reference to the 
 reduction being made in consuls' salaries, which 
 have never been large enough. The representa- 
 tive of England should have enough to live on and 
 keep up a little dignity. With his present salary 
 this is in all instances, with the exception of Pekin, 
 where the minister is overpaid for doing nothing, 
 impossible. Living in China is very expensive, 
 and the climate is not such a one as to induce 
 intelligent men, which consuls should be, and are, 
 as a rule, to spend years of their lives in it without 
 being able to save a penny, nay, barely to exist on 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE, 77 
 
 their income. How can they represent British in- 
 terests justly ? I cannot help thinking that people, 
 if they only knew these facts, would feel ashamed 
 that such a wretched mean policy should be pur- 
 sued by a nation like England. One could hardly 
 understand even Grermany so disgracing herself. 
 
78 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 CHAPTEE III. 
 
 The Start — In our Carts, harnessed to Camels — We shootsonae Hawks, 
 to the Astonishment of the Guides, who have never seen a repeat- 
 ing Rifle fired — Our first Encampment — The Desert becomes bare 
 of Pasture — We meet the first Caravan from Kiachta — Purchase 
 two Ponies of a Mongol Horse-dealer — The Steed turns restive — 
 A Tussle in the Desert — Visit from an old Mongol — Hospitality of 
 these People — Their Habits and Occupations — Sunrise in the 
 Desert — Our Camels break down — A Mongol Venus — A Visit to 
 one of the Yourts, or Tents — Bargaining for fresh Camels — 
 Want of Water — A Mirage in the Desert — Intruders join us — 
 Knocked up at night in my Cart by one of them asking for 
 Liquor — Fire my Revolver in reply — My new Camel turns restive, 
 and nearly pitches me out of my Cart — The Plain covered with 
 Camel's Bones— -The horrible Cold of a North-easter — The effect 
 of the Atmosphere in magnifying distant Objects — Attempt to 
 steal our Camels by mounted Mongols — We name our Mongol 
 Lama Guides ' Monkey ' and ' Cocoanut ' — The Cold increasing — 
 Our Ponies getting starved for want of Fodder — More than half 
 frozen in my Cart : the Pain of being thawed — We reach Tsagan 
 Tugurik — Vast Herds of Camels — We •|)resent a Mongol with 
 some Cayenne Pepper to stop begging for Whisky — Signs of 
 Ironstone and Copper Ore. 
 
 After remaining a short time, two of our camels 
 were harnessed in our carts, and with a splendid 
 moon shining we proceeded slowly over the desert. 
 I found that sleep was out of the question, as 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 79 
 
 indeed we found it generally was throughout the 
 whole journey across when we were in motion, 
 the long swing of the camel jerking the springless 
 carts most unmercifully. However I managed to 
 remain in mine until G a.m. the next day, the 
 28th, when we found ourselves in the midst of a 
 plain, not a hill being in sight, except the pass we 
 had come over, already fading away. The alti- 
 tude was 3400 feet above the sea's level, and the 
 temperature 24° Fahrenheit. Beyond the novelty 
 of our situation and a cold north-east wind 
 spririging up in the afternoon, little worth calling 
 incident happened during the day. We had some 
 long shots at large hawks with a thirteen-repeating 
 Henry rifle, and managed to bag two fine speci- 
 mens, much to the astonishment as well as some- 
 what to the dismay of our Lamas, who, not seeing 
 any loading going on and never having seen a 
 similar gun, the rapid shots seemed to them akin 
 to magic. 
 
 At 4 P.M., having walked most of the day, we 
 encamped, intending to remain until 10 p.m., so as 
 to give the camels a short halt, which they re- 
 quire every eighteen hours, and to get some food 
 for ourselves, having eaten nothing since leaving 
 Kalgan ; our guides also requiring a short sleep. 
 
80 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 which they took in turns, one always keeping 
 watch. As soon as the halt was called the camels 
 were all made to kneel down, unladen, and taken 
 out of their carts ; they were then allowed to pick 
 np any fodder they could find for about an hour, 
 but were seldom given any water, as it makes 
 them lazy ; they were then all collected together 
 and made to kneel down, where they remained 
 chewing the cud until the start was made again. 
 As soon as we halted, our first care, whilst our 
 Lamas were pitching a common tent, made of a 
 sort of blue canvas, was to get our carts in order ; 
 we then overhauled our stores and cooked our 
 dinner^ — mutton broth and biscuits — which we 
 had every day when water was obtainable as 
 long as we were in the desert, and, as the reader 
 may suppose, it became rather monotonous. We 
 had to be sparing with our stores, as we did 
 not know when we might be able to replenish 
 them. 
 
 In order to make a fire, in the centre of the tent 
 we placed a sort of iron circle on legs, inside of 
 which — there being no wood or coals obtainable — 
 argolots are placed. They are composed of dry 
 cow-dung, and at times we had difficult}' in ob- 
 taining it ; but whenever we came across a yourt 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 81 
 
 we purchased for a small quantity of brick tea, as 
 much as our sacks, which we carried for the pur- 
 pose, would hold. It lights very easily, and gives 
 a good heat, but the smoke from it is blinding, 
 especially as there is no outlet for it at the top of 
 the tent ; but we soon discovered that by keeping 
 in a recumbent position we avoided a good deal of 
 it, as, on rising, it finds a gradual outlet through 
 the door. On the morning of the 29th we found 
 ourselves gradually leaving all signs of pasture ; 
 grass was scarce, and the only fodder a sort of a 
 stunted heath. About the middle of the day we 
 came across a caravan, composed of about fifty 
 camels, laden with produce from Kiachta, and 
 large droves of Tartar ponies. The guides, who 
 were fine stalwart-looking fellows, surrounded us, 
 and looked with astonishment on us, especially 
 when they heard that we were on our way to 
 Kiachta, which even they considered a matter of 
 some difficulty and hardship at this season of the 
 year. They were most amiable, simple people, 
 and were much delighted by a revolver and a 
 large knife I showed them, and many were their 
 exclamations of wonder. Being anxious to purchase 
 one pony, which we considered would be enough 
 for both of us to get a ride for an hour or two 
 
 a 
 
82 A LAND JOTJENEY FEOM 
 
 each day, we picked a fine little animal out of a 
 large drove and inquired tlie price, whicli was 
 named at twenty taels, about £6 ; not dear for a 
 handsome fiery little steed. But thinking we could 
 do better perhaps later on, as our guides had, 
 whenever we made signs to them about purchasing 
 ponies, explained that there were plenty further 
 on which we could get cheap, we offered ten 
 taels. This we did by making with a stick ten 
 strokes in the sand, to which the Mongol horse- 
 dealer added six more ; but after the usual waste 
 of time in concluding a bargain we got him for 
 eleven taels, and proceeded on our way rejoicing. 
 But we had rather calculated without our host. 
 Our caravan had proceeded onwards with one of 
 the Lamas, the other remaining with us, so I took 
 hold of the halter of our newly-acquired purchase, 
 and led him on. Not being followed immediately 
 by the Lama with us, who remained behind to re- 
 ceive a portion of what we had paid, for his trouble 
 in getting a purchaser, it was no easy matter to 
 persuade the Tartar pony to advance, probably 
 never having seen a stranger like myself, and 
 being unwilling to leave the drove and knowing 
 the horrors of the desert ahead. We should have 
 either had to remain an indefinite period in the 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 88 
 
 desert or I should have been forced to relinquish 
 my hold, for he refused to advance a step forward, 
 and every time my travelling companion attempted 
 to approach him from behind he lashed out and 
 nearly pulled me over. All this time our caravan 
 in advance was gradually getting smaller on the 
 horizon. However, our second Lama coming up 
 relieved us of the halter, and cantered forward on 
 his camel, leading the now more willing steed, 
 and we had a good hard walk before we reached 
 our caravan again. Nothing is so tiring as en- 
 deavouring to reach anything which is continually 
 advancing, however slow the pace. 
 
 Being anxious to try our new purchase, when 
 we came up with the caravan we got one of the 
 saddles from our baggage and attempted to place 
 it on the pony's back. But this was easier said 
 than done, and our Lamas were of no use, not un- 
 derstanding such saddles as we had. Theirs are 
 generally made of wood, which sit on the animals' 
 backs like small chairs, and the stirrups are huge 
 affairs. 
 
 It was rather dangerous work, but at last, after 
 some trouble, we managed to throw the saddle 
 across and get it buckled on. My friend Mr. Wal- 
 cott mounted him, and a precious hard job he had 
 
 G 2 
 
84 A LAND JOUENEY PROM 
 
 to keep his seat. Before we halted we met another 
 drove of ponies, and I picked out one that seemed 
 the most quiet of the lot. The price asked was 
 twenty taels, but after a good deal of bargaining 
 and correct weighing of the lumps of silver, I got 
 possession for ten taels, and was very well satisfied 
 with my purchase. The two animals were an 
 extra trouble for the Lamas to lead, so they were 
 attached to the rear camel, when they speedily 
 pulled the baggage-saddle off that animal, and 
 nearly pulled his nose out besides. 
 
 The scenery was becoming very monotonous. 
 All the ponds of water we passed were hard frozen, 
 and here and there large patches of snow appeared. 
 We encamped at half-past four, very hungry 
 and tired, no signs of habitation near us, and 
 very little pasture, which our camels and ponies 
 soon made the most of. The weather had become 
 dull and heavy clouds were hanging over us, and 
 a strong north-east wind blowing ; altogether a 
 rather gloomy aspect, especially as signs of rain 
 appeared, which, in our unprotected state, would 
 have been misery to us, as it would easily find its 
 way through our carts. But "sufficient for the 
 day is the evil thereof" proved a true adage, for 
 our usual soup soon dispelled all feelings of gloom. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 85 
 
 An old Mongol paid us a visit, and, squatting 
 down on his haunches in our tent, shared our 
 dinner, much to his satisfaction. We always re- 
 gretted our inability to converse with the natives, 
 as, no doubt, we should have derived much curious 
 knowledge. It never seemed to trouble them 
 whether we could understand or not, as they 
 kept up a continual chatter, we nodding or saying 
 " Sign" which means " good," in reply. The rules 
 of hospitality are strictly observed amongst the 
 Mongols ; and however wearisome it was to us at 
 times to have our tent, when we were eating, 
 crowded with unasked children of the desert, we 
 took care never to show our feelings, as it would 
 have injured us much in their estimation. Some 
 people laugh at such notions as respecting the pre- 
 judices of the people they are travelling amongst, 
 and make, with very bad., taste, determined efforts 
 to offend them, and are then astonished that they 
 sometimes come to grief. I always found that by 
 simply endeavouring as well as I could to do as 
 these natives did when I was in their company, 
 and to avoid all scoflSng or sneering at their 
 religious as well as domestic arrangements, I 
 got on well with them ; and besides, I discovered 
 a great deal that was good and even noble existed 
 
86 A LAND JOUENEY FKOM 
 
 amongst them. Whenever we came across a yourt, 
 riding up to it, we received a hearty welcome, were 
 seated in the best place, supplied with milk, for 
 which we generally gave some little coin, more 
 as a curiosity, and not as payment ; and from what 
 I saw I am persuaded they would share with a 
 stranger anything they had at the time. Free from 
 avarice, and other vices but little known amongst 
 them, I cannot help heartily wishing that civilisa- 
 tion, falsely so called, with its bottle of schnaps, 
 will not encroach among these honest children of 
 the desert for many a year yet to come. Their 
 habit of life is simple and abstemious. Born in the 
 desert, trained when quite young to ride on horse- 
 back, they are the finest although the most ugly 
 riders in the world. They may be said to live on 
 horseback. They used to come swooping down at 
 full gallop right up to us, jump off their horses, 
 quickly tie their two forelegs together, and were 
 down on their haunches by our side in a moment. 
 Having satisfied their curiosity they were up and 
 off again as quick as lightning. They are long- 
 lived. I have seen many over eighty and ninety, 
 and looking still strong and hale. Their great 
 occupation is tending their flocks of sheep and 
 cows and large droves of ponies. They wander 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 87 
 
 about to all parts of the desert, according to the 
 seasons, in search of grazing ground, so that where 
 a village of yourts may be found to day no trace 
 may remain of it on the morrow. 
 
 Eising early from my cart on the 30th, to our 
 great joy we found tbat all symptoms of rain had 
 disappeared and not a cloud was to be seen. 
 Those who have not seen a sunrise in the desert 
 cannot imagine how wonderful it is, and what a 
 purity there is in the clear crystal air canopied by a 
 sky of dazzling blue. We calculated we were now 
 ninety miles from the commencement of the desert, 
 and here it becomes very sandy and uninteresting, 
 with hardly any signs of pasture to be seen. 
 
 Passing early by a few yourts, one of our Lamas 
 rode forward on our pony and got us some milk 
 in two bottles we carried with us. This we 
 found, whenever we could get it, most welcome to 
 us. The thermometer to-day was 38°, with a 
 strong south-westerly wind blowing, otherwise it 
 would have been warm. We encamped again at 
 half-past four, having done a good day's work, 
 about thirty-six miles, since ten last evening. 
 There was little or no fodder for the camels ; they, 
 however, did not seem to care about it ; but the 
 ponies looked very disconsolate, but ate all they 
 
88 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 could find. To day we cooked a capital dinner — ' 
 beef, soup with, carrots, biscuits, and mutton, chops 
 and kidneys to follow, which, with a little cheese, a 
 glass of sherry, and a small tin mug of old potheen 
 to follow, made a feed for a hungry man that a 
 king might envy. The wind was abating, and it 
 was a beautiful clear night, the thermometer 
 standing at 28°. I could not sleep at all, the road, 
 as was usually the case at night, appearing very 
 rough, and I got so jolted about that I could 
 hardly remain in the cart. I rose again at 7 a.m., 
 and it was a splendid morning, without a cloud to 
 be seen; thermometer 16°. My sponge and every- 
 thing in cart frozen, in which state they remained 
 until we reached Kiachta. The wind had entirely 
 gone down. We passed during the day large flocks 
 of very fine sand-grouse . They flew close to us, and 
 I very much regretted that in leaving Shanghae I 
 had forgotten to take my fowling-piece, as I could 
 have shot plenty easily, and they are very good 
 eating. 
 
 Two of our camels were showing symptoms of 
 breaking down, so one of our Lamas rode ahead in 
 search of two others. A new Mongol joined us 
 to-day, and we understood he was to go with us to 
 Kiachta. He was not a Lama. He turned out to be 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 89 
 
 an honest willing lad, and as long as hie remained 
 with us proved very useful. At one o'clock our 
 Lama joined us with some new camels, attended by 
 a whole tribe of Mongols, the father of the family, 
 mother, sons, and daughters — all on ponies. The 
 women dress exactly like men, and also ride in 
 the same manner, so that it is most difficult to 
 discover the sexes. The women are generally 
 good-looking, strongly made, and appear very 
 healthy. They have, not the peculiar cast in the 
 eyes which the Chinese women have, but perfectly 
 bright black ones, and rather high cheek bones. 
 They are excessively fond of finery, and wear 
 quantities of glass beads in their hair and on 
 their dress, which made me at times regret that 
 I had none with me to give away. Whenever I 
 gave them a small Hong Kong ten cent piece they 
 were delighted, and made signs that they would 
 use them as ear-rings. For a few beads we could 
 have got anything they had. I remember one 
 morning riding up to a yourt to ask for milk, 
 and a very handsome dark Mongol woman came 
 out and invited us in. Her husband soon joined 
 her, and I never experienced in civilised society 
 more genuine kindness and hospitality than I did 
 from them. They seemed delighted to see us, 
 
90 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 cooked some of our chocolate and milk together, 
 which we shared with them, and they expressed 
 great pleasure at the sweet taste of the chocolate. 
 When I rose to leave I gave the woman two 
 small coins, at which she testified the greatest 
 delight, holding them up to her ears and then 
 showing them to her husband. As she stood up 
 her magnificent black hair, loosely done up, fell 
 down, and it nearly reached the ground. She 
 was a tall woman with a dark flashing eye and 
 well-formed shape, and as she stood a painter 
 would have been in raptures with her and a 
 poet would have exalted her into a heroine. 
 When we left they both came out, the husband 
 holding my pony as I mounted ; often, as we 
 looked behind, we saw them still standing at their 
 door looking after us. It is quite refreshing, after 
 the falseness and absurdities of what is called 
 polite society, to find oneself thrown amongst a 
 barbarian people. I believe in true manners and 
 real innocence and kindness the latter are im- 
 measurably superior to the former. I have no 
 doubt these two, being all alone in the midst of 
 the desert, often afterwards thought of our visit, 
 and wondered who the strangers could have been 
 who could not talk to them except with signs. I 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 91 
 
 know that I benefited much by my intercourse 
 with the Mongols. They opened my mind to the 
 fact, that after all our system is very imperfect. 
 I would not for a moment say in all cases that 
 civilisation is not better than what is often falsely 
 called barbarism, but I most unhesitatingly do 
 aver that these people are better as they are, and 
 would shame, even by their rude breeding, many 
 polite people who consider themselves highly bred. 
 I do not think I have described the appearance 
 of a yourt. They vary in size, being however 
 generally about ten to twelve feet in diameter. . 
 They are made perfectly round, of thick felt, double 
 or treble, and are quite waterproof. About two feet 
 from the ground inside is a sort of trellis work of 
 bamboo, which is placed and fixed some depth in 
 the ground, and gives great strength, which is 
 necessary against the strong winds. A ventilator is 
 fixed at the top, which can be opened and shut at 
 pleasure, in order to allow the smoke of the ever- 
 burning fire, which is in the centre of the yourt, 
 to escape. All round are strewn skins to lie 
 down upon, their method of repose being either 
 recumbent or on their haunches. Old bows and 
 arrows, flint guns, and all the valuables, hang 
 round or are placed on shelves. These yourts 
 
92 A LAND JODENEY FROM 
 
 have only one room. They are easily struck and 
 pitched again wherever the owner decides on 
 remaining. Robbery being hardly known, the 
 door is a simple flap of thick felt, which hangs 
 from the top of a frame of bamboo, and on entering 
 with the usual greeting, " Mendo sign" this has 
 to be pushed on one side. Some of the yourts, 
 belonging to chiefs of clans, are very luxurious 
 compared to others. They all look clean and afford 
 good shelter in the winter months. It is generally 
 a sign when a few yourts are found together that 
 water is near, and probably pasture also. 
 
 Now commenced a serious affair : our Lamas 
 picking out two new camels in exchange for our 
 tired ones. Of course this entailed the usual 
 amount of bargaining, which ended, much to our 
 annoyance, in our encamping at two o'clock. For 
 two long hours did our Lamas wrangle, and then 
 at last a bargain was made. Camels are not worth 
 much here, as the small amount of silver handed 
 over to the Mongol family (about ten shillings 
 worth and a little brick tea, with the old camels 
 to boot) testified, Mongols have a peculiar mode 
 of striking a bargain. It is first necessary that 
 the whole party interested sit down in a circle 
 on their haunches; then, after a grave silence. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 93 
 
 commences a perfect Babel, every one speaking 
 at the same time ; the bargain at last concluded, 
 the seller places his hand np the sleeve of the 
 buyer. This is a contract ; it is then clenched with 
 a drink of tea, or sometimes, when available, a 
 small glass of spirits. We found that our Lamas 
 had a bottle with them, which they used to produce 
 whenever a bargain was very tough. They never 
 seemed however to drink any themselves, it being 
 unlawful for a priest to drink wine or spirits. 
 
 The new camels had to be tried in our carts, to 
 which they evinced great repugnance, but after 
 taking them backwards and forwards a few times 
 they settled down quietly to their fate. "We calcu- 
 lated now that all our camels, with the exception 
 of the two new ones, had been three days without 
 food, or water, and we had seen nothing but sand 
 during that time, and all the water that we could 
 get was by melting snow, which generally was 
 very dirty, but we were too glad to get any to be 
 particular. We had seen a well to-day, but found 
 the water dirty and brackish ; even our ponies, 
 which were very hard up for water, would not drink 
 it. During the day we saw some very beautiful 
 mirages. One of them was very plain. On one 
 side of us seemed to be a large blue lake sur- 
 
94 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 TOTinded by mountains covered witli trees. On 
 its banks were small hills surmounted by ruined 
 castles. At the same time, right in front, we 
 could discern what seemed the sea, calm as glass, 
 with islands on it. As we advanced these pictures 
 receded, and towards dusk faded away entirely. I 
 was very glad to see even these delusions, as the 
 continual monotony of the desert was becoming 
 most wearisome. 
 
 Our course was north-west by north, and every 
 day it was becoming colder. Hitherto we had 
 escaped the strongest east winds, but our Lamas 
 used to make us feel very uncomfortable by their 
 predictions ; as we had heard, and later experience 
 convinced us of the fact, that a north-east wind in 
 the Desert of Gobi is about the height of human 
 misery and as much as human nature can stand. 
 Every day when we encamped, from 4 p.m. until 
 10 P.M., we used to say to our Mongol guides, 
 " Hor-dan yabo Kiachta, -lang mongo joss," which 
 means, " Go quickly to Kiachta, and you shall 
 have plenty of money;" and then, holding up their 
 fingers, they would signify how many days they 
 thought it would take. We had now been but 
 four days in the desert ; it seemed like four weeks ; 
 and when twenty fingers were held up as the 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 95 
 
 remaining number of days before us, we could not 
 help feeling that it was interminably long. But after 
 all, I cannot help looking backward to that part of 
 our journey with pleasure. It was perfect freedom, 
 and we were certainly gaining perfect health. 
 
 During the night we were joined by two Mongols, 
 whose appearance we did not like at all, and we 
 were not overpleased when we heard that they 
 were going to join our caravan; but beyond ex- 
 pressing our dissatisfaction in signs we could say 
 nothing, for want of knowledge of the language. 
 Moreover, we did not wish to create offence, as we 
 were perfectly alone in the desert, and we could 
 have been very easily murdered, and, of course, 
 never heard of again. However, we arranged a 
 signal in case anything happened, our carts being 
 close together. I found, as the sequel proves, that 
 the best way to discourage hangers-on to our cara- 
 van was, instead of giving .the remnants of our 
 soup to our two Lamas, which we always did, to 
 divide it equally amongst them all ; which plan, 
 acting against the interests of the former, they 
 themselves soon got rid of the intruders. I noticed 
 one of these new Mongols prowling about where 
 my cart was, so I entered it earlier than I usually 
 did, and put my revolver in a convenient place, 
 
96 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 keeping my lamp alight. A short time before the 
 camels were harnessed in for our usual start again 
 at 10 P.M., my door, which was hooked inside, was 
 violently tugged at. I jumped up and opened it, 
 when the face of one of the Mongols appeared, and 
 made a sign, asking me for something to drink. I 
 suppose one of our Lamas had told them we had 
 whisky with us. Besides being very cold, I was 
 just getting to sleep, and I knew I should get none 
 now all night. I did feel iiitensely angry. I 
 seized my revolver, and pointed it at him for 
 reply. Away he scudded, and I fired in the air as 
 a warning to him. It had its effect, for during his 
 short stay with us he never came near me. Of 
 course my companion quickly came out of his cart, 
 and I related to him all that happened ; so we 
 called our Lamas and expostulated with them, 
 which produced the usual negative result, as they 
 did not understand a word we said. I was not 
 very sorry when we moved on again, as we were 
 near large caravans, and the Mongols with them 
 are very different from those who dwell in the 
 desert. They travel about between China and 
 Kiachta, and look more like some of the worst 
 Chinese. I often wondered they let us by without 
 hindrance. We took good care to show them 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 97 
 
 nothing of value ; whilst to the inhabitants of the 
 yourts we showed all we had, feeling a perfect 
 trust in them. 
 
 The whole of the 1st of November we passed 
 over an interminable sandy plain, in which no 
 fodder or water was to be found, and we began to 
 fear for our poor ponies. When we first had theni 
 they were full of spirit ; in fact, we could never 
 go near them without their kicking out, but now 
 hunger and fatigue had made them very quiet. I 
 felt very sorry for them. I was endeavouring at 
 noon, as I had not slept the preceding night, to 
 get a nap in my cart, but my camel was not agree- 
 able to the arrangement, for without any warning 
 he suddenly sat down, and sent me nearly through 
 the front of the cart, one of my legs going through 
 the only remaining window I had ; so now all 
 three were broken ; a nice prospect for a north- 
 easter ! Evidently my camel had made up his 
 mind to remain as long as he could where he was, 
 for it took a good hour and a half before we got 
 him up again, and as soon as we got him once more 
 into the cart he quietly sat down again ; so we had 
 to transfer our baggage from another camel to his 
 back, and place the fresh one in the cart, which 
 worked well. 
 
 H 
 
98 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 We were travelling over an altitude of about 
 3000 feet; distance from Kalgan about 150 
 miles. 
 
 We were not able to get our usual supply of 
 milk as we had seen no yourts to-day, and water 
 was very scarce ; we could only get enough to 
 make some tea, so we had to go without our usual 
 soup, having to content ourselves with a frozen 
 tongue. Certainly, as far as we had gone, we had 
 had splendid weather. Our hands got in an awful 
 condition, cut, rough, and dirty, as our means for 
 washing were very limited. All day we passed 
 over a sandy flat plain, no vegetation whatever 
 being visible. Although I have marked in my 
 map places where villages are supposed to be 
 situated, it is impossible to speak correctly of their 
 whereabouts, as, for reasons I have before given, 
 they are constantly changing. As we approached 
 nearer the centre of the desert, for six or seven 
 days we hardly saw even a single yourt; and 
 again, as we approached the other side, we found 
 traces of where villages had been, but which 
 migrate every winter bodily to TJrga. The plain 
 we passed over to-day was thickly covered in 
 parts with salt deposits, I tasted several of 
 them, to be certain, and found them to be bitter 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 99 
 
 and salt. We also found some very curious pebbles 
 and petrifactions. One part, for about two miles, 
 was strewn with camels' bones, and might well be 
 called the Plain of the Dead, for nothing was seen 
 but these ghastly skeletons. Whenever we made 
 our usual halt huge ravens made their appearance, 
 which was unpleasantly suggestive, as they were 
 waiting for any death that might occur. We tried 
 to drive them away, and shot one or two, but still 
 they would come back ; and whenever at night I 
 put my head out of my cart I was sure to see 
 one of these huge carrion birds keeping sentinel 
 outside. 
 
 On the 2nd of November we experienced a slight 
 foretaste of what a north-east wind is like in the 
 desert of Gobi. The thermometer stood at 18°. I 
 do not think that I ever felt so cold as I did that 
 morning, not yet being hardened to it. The cold 
 tea I carried with me, which I always made over- 
 night, was frozen, and the bread like a brickbat — 
 a bad look-out for us, as we had now no means of 
 replenishing our stores, and supplies of fuel were 
 very precarious. I had on a tight-fitting sheep- 
 skin coat and top-boots lined with fur, but with 
 all this I could not face the wind ; so, getting 
 under every available wrap, and even putting my 
 
 u 2 
 
100 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 small carpet-bag over me in the cart, I smoked as 
 hard as I could, which was all we got this day in 
 the shape of food, and nothing but a small glass of 
 sherry to drink. I must confess that home did 
 appear to me very attractive, and hopes of ever 
 getting there seemed " small by degrees and beau- 
 tifully less." Thank goodness, towards evening 
 the wind died away, and although it was awfully 
 cold, still we were able to enjoy the clear still 
 night, with a moon shining so brilliantly that it 
 was easy to read by its light. Before retiring to 
 rest as usual, our lamas informed us that there 
 were moo kung (bad men) about this part of the 
 desert. One always kept watch at such times ; 
 so it was arranged that in case of anything hap- 
 pening the lama was to give a sort of a cry, and 
 we would be immediately ready with our revolvers. 
 One of our camels having broken down, we had 
 changed him, with the usual amount of bargaining, 
 for another one ; so to-night we intended, as we 
 also were glad to get a little more rest, waiting 
 until twelve o'clock. The moon set at ten, and the 
 wind gradually rose again. I could not sleep, as 
 it penetrated through the cracks of the cart, 
 sending clouds of sand through the windows. 
 Although the moon had set, it was a clear night. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 101 
 
 In these parts of the world, the atmosphere being 
 so rarefied, makes even the darkest night appear 
 tolerably clear. I have seen in ^the night objects 
 even in the far distance. It is curious, though, in 
 the day-time, how objects in the distance become 
 magnified. A man on a camel looks like a hill, 
 and a small dog like some gigantic animal. I 
 have seen troops of Tartars riding along, looking 
 like an advance of a line of poplar-trees ; in fact, 
 everything is very deceptive, and it is nearly im- 
 possible to calculate distances. You may enter a 
 plain which looks, at most, ten miles across, and 
 still, after travelling all day, find yourself a long 
 distance from the slight elevations which indicate 
 the end of the plain and the commencement of the 
 next one. 
 
 It was about eleven o'clock, and nothing could 
 be heard beyond the howling of the wind and the 
 plaintive cry of our camels. Camels snore and 
 dream. I often watched them when dreaming ; 
 they seem to suffer like dogs, with a similar sort 
 of shiver and nightmare. Suddenly a cry broke 
 from the tent where our Lamas were. We were 
 both awake, and always being dressed, opened 
 our carts at once. The camels were all on their 
 haunches, about fifty yards from us, the tent being 
 
102 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 nearly between. I could just see two or three 
 men or ponies near them, but hardly distinctly, 
 on account of the tent. My friend's cart being 
 behind mine, he could see what was going on 
 better than I could. 
 
 A shot from his revolver made a sudden change 
 in the scene, as instantaneously three figures on 
 ponies scudded away across the plain. On ap- 
 proaching the camels, we found that two of them 
 were unloosed ; the method of keeping them down, 
 or not allowing them to rise, being to tie the nose- 
 string to the hump. These strings were loose ; so, 
 no doubtj our three robbing friends intended 
 marching off with them if they had not been dis- 
 covered. Although our Lamas had left it to us to 
 frighten them away, I do not think if we had been 
 asleep that they would have remained passive, as 
 they were strong, courageous men, and well able 
 to take care of their own. They, however, deemed 
 it prudent for us to continue our march at once ; 
 so, all helping, we quickly struck our tent and 
 hoisted our baggage, &c., on our camels, and pro- 
 ceeded onwards without delay. 
 
 "We were henceforth impressed with the necessity 
 of a strict watch at night, and whenever we fancied 
 the Lama on watch was asleep, would shout out his 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 103 
 
 name. We had christened, if I may use such a 
 term, our two Lamas " Oocoanut " and " Monkey," 
 as one resembled so much the fruit, the other the 
 animal ; and they were quite accustomed to these 
 names, and used to call one another by them — of 
 course not understanding their meaning. For 
 instance, one of them being* away, we would say, 
 " Oocoanut," and then point, " Monkey ;" and 
 Cocoanut, for reply, would point to the horizon, 
 and say, " Monkey ;" so we knew he had gone 
 ahead, either to visit some acquaintance or arrange 
 about new camels. 
 
 As usual, we got no sleep during the night. I 
 fancy our Lamas, who could sleep on their camels' 
 backs as comfortably as if in a bed, did so during 
 the nights, as we used to find ourselves in most 
 curious places, and came to continual halts ; and 
 we were obliged to be constantly on the alert, 
 shouting out their names to keep up our march. 
 I am certain we travelled over much more ground 
 than we need have done, as often at night we 
 found ourselves going north-east, our proper course 
 being north-west ; and then we had to retrace our 
 steps again, often too with much difficulty. 
 
 We found ourselves progressing in the language 
 used amongst the Mongols, and could ask for a 
 
104 A LAND JOURNEY PROM 
 
 few necessary things ; but it is most difficult, there 
 being no way of properly learning it. The Mon- 
 gols speak a distinct language from the Chinese, 
 but they have little or no literature of their own, 
 the characters used being Chinese, Yery few 
 amongst them, even of their Lamas, know how to 
 read or write ; having no postal communication 
 amongst themselves, of course a written correspon- 
 dence is entirely unknown, all communications 
 between chiefs of clans or relatives being verbal. 
 They are perfectly ignorant as to other countries, 
 and probably the majority imagine that the world 
 consists of Mongolia. Their religious ideas are 
 hazy and undefined ; however, they profess Bhud- 
 dism. Of course it is hard to understand such 
 a perfect state of ignorance, but if happiness is a 
 test of goodness, certainly these people prove the 
 old proverb which says, " Where ignorance is 
 bliss 'tis folly to be wise." 
 
 On the 3rd of November the cold was still 
 increasing, the thermometer marking 9°, or 23° 
 of frost. The north-east wind was sweeping 
 across the plain, which was becoming terribly 
 monotonous to us. I would have given any- 
 thing to have seen a tree, or even a little grass, 
 and much to have come across some good water, 
 
Asia to eueope. los 
 
 which we were rather in want of. The only 
 thing that could be done was to walk all day. 
 Eating was out of the question until we halted, 
 as everything was hard frozen. I tried to ride 
 on my now docile pony, but it was too cold. Our 
 unfortunate ponies were looking very miserable 
 and becoming footsore, and we determined to get 
 rid of them as soon as possible, for it seemed cruel 
 taking them further in the desert, as all chances of 
 finding fodder or water were daily becoming less. 
 During the afternoon we passed over a rocky 
 country, ascending a little, the altitude reaching 
 over 4000 feet ; this was a change, but it jolted 
 our carts and contents about sadly. Halting at 
 half-past four at the foot of some rocks which 
 afforded a shelter from the wind, I attempted to 
 wash my face and hands, but was soon discovered 
 in a frozen and melancholy condition by one of 
 our Mongols, and taken helplessly by him into the 
 hut and thawed before the fire, from which process 
 I suffered for two hours afterwards the most ex- 
 quisite pain ; I am sure, however, if I had not 
 been discovered, I should, something Hke Lot's 
 wife, have been turned into a pillar of ice, instead 
 of salt. At 7 P.M. the thermometer stood at 2°, and 
 was still going down, and giving indications of a 
 
106 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 stronger wind. I certainly did feel a wish that 
 it were possible to go back, but that was quite out 
 of the question. Nothing happened during the 
 night, except that it was impossible to get any 
 rest, the country we were passing over being so 
 rocky, and the camels seeming to delight in taking 
 us over about the worse pieces they could pick out. 
 To our great delight we reached Tsagan Tugurik 
 at 11.30 A.M., on the 4th. This was the first point 
 we had reached from which we could at all judge 
 where we were. It is magnificently designated 
 a town ; all we saw were a few miserable yourts — 
 about six — and a little white temple and house 
 recently built for the officiating priest. The temple 
 is the smallest I have ever seen. What in the 
 summer is evidently a grassy plain was now en- 
 tirely dried up. The distance from Kalgan we 
 made to be about 300 miles, which we had taken 
 eight days to accomplish — ^very difierent from rail- 
 way speed. There is said to be a lake about here, 
 but we could not find any trace of it, although we 
 remained some time in order to find it. "We felt 
 quite cheered up at reaching this place, as we were 
 feeling rather anxious and depressed before ; but 
 knowing we were travelling in the right direction 
 and getting over the ground did us much good. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 107 
 
 Sending our caravan ahead, we rode to a yourt 
 and procured some first-rate milk. We visited all 
 tte yourts, but could not help saying, " Fancy this 
 being called a town !" The plain was covered 
 with camels, I should fancy at least 1000 of them — 
 all looking in fine condition. Our Lamas, who had 
 friends here, evidently wished to make a halt, but 
 to this we objected, as every hour was now of con- 
 sequence. We did not desire a longer residence 
 in the desert than possible, and we still calculated on 
 fifteen days at least longer, before reaching Kiachta. 
 After leaving Tsagan Tugurik we proceeded over 
 a rocky country for about two miles, and then 
 across a succession of plains covered with snow 
 about a foot thick, but hard frozen ; but we were 
 now assured we could always get water. We 
 encamped at five on a small patch of sand 
 with a little grass on it, which our animals soon 
 disposed of. 
 
 A whole family of Mongols, consisting of five 
 girls, the father, and mother, came from a neigh- 
 bouring yourt, and all squatting down on their 
 haunches round our tent, watched us preparing 
 our dinner, the girls assisting us by keeping up 
 the fire ; we made an extra quantity of soup, so we 
 shared it with them, and gave them a few ten-cent 
 
108 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 pieces, with which they were delighted. The 
 girls, especially the eldest, were fine, healthy, and 
 good-looking, ranging from about fourteen to 
 twenty-two. Some of our fur coats sadly wanted 
 repairing, which one of the girls, with a huge 
 wooden needle, set to work to accomplish, being 
 highly delighted at the task, the mother and father 
 evidently pleased at their daughter's skill. They 
 jabbered most incessantly, and seemed quite satis- 
 fied when we nodded our heads. It really was an 
 interesting sight ; all sitting round our tent, a fire 
 blazing in the centre, outside ice and snow, and 
 and the camels all huddled together, we dressed in 
 our long sheepskin mantles and high fur hats, one 
 of the girls working, another one feeding the fire, 
 and my travelling companion stirring the soup, 
 and occasionally tasting it. I felt quite comfort- 
 able. After dinner the whole family trooped ofi", 
 and left us again to our solitude. We were just 
 retiring to rest when an old Mongol, about sixty 
 years of age, came galloping down at a great pace 
 to our tent, intending to pay us a visit. We were 
 just taking a little drop of whisky, but as our 
 supply was getting very limited we did not care 
 about parting with any. No sooner did our ancient 
 friend see it than he intimated a desire to have 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 109 
 
 some ; but we knew if we gave to one we should 
 probably be bothered all night, several yourts being 
 near us. So we thought to give him a dose which 
 would stop any further applications. We produced 
 a large bottle of cayenne pepper, the effect of 
 which our friend never dreamt of. Griving him in 
 the palm of his hand as much as would cover a 
 threepenny piece, we made signs to him to lick it 
 up, which he did immediately. The effect was 
 instantaneous ; for, with a howl, he jumped on his 
 horse, and we nearly died with laughter as we saw 
 him wheeling and whooping away in the distance. 
 However^ our Lamas, who had enjoyed the joke as 
 much as we did, advised us to start at once, as we 
 might have an unpleasant invasion, as no doubt 
 it would be thoiight that we had poisoned the old 
 Mongol. 
 
 We proceeded along at a good pace, for, although 
 our Lamas, whenever they made signs to us as of 
 licking up pepper were convulsed with laughter, 
 they were evidently very much afraid of the 
 consequences. We had purchased enough fuel 
 to last us for at least two days, the Lamas 
 paying for it in millet, a supply of which we 
 to-day discovered they carried with them for the 
 purpose. Our Lamas only had one meal a day, 
 
110 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 as we did, but the quantity they took at one time 
 was enormous. Whenever we passed a yourt one of 
 them would ride up to it, and in return for his 
 blessing would, if a sheep was killed, be presented 
 with the entrails, which they would cook at night. 
 We calculated that each of them on these festive 
 occasions ate at least five pounds weight. It was 
 a too disgusting sight to see them gorging, so 
 whenever they commenced we used to beat a 
 hasty retreat to our carts. 
 
 On the 5th we rose from our carts at six, 
 the thermometer stood at 2°, and it was bitterly 
 cold. During the night we had passed over 
 some deep snow-drifts, which very much impeded 
 our progress, but about 7 a.m. we left the plain 
 and entered into a hilly country, very barren 
 indeed, and yourts became scarce. The loads 
 were also excessively rough. We fared badly 
 this day, as we could get neither water nor milk, 
 and all our provisions were frozen. At twenty 
 minutes before three, we saw a most curious 
 phenomenon : three suns, most distinctly, in the 
 sky. So much were they alike that it was im- 
 possible to distinguish which was the true one. 
 All three were shining brightly. It lasted until 
 half-past four, one alternately fading away and 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. Ill 
 
 appearing, -until they finally set together. Our 
 Lamas -informed ns, with many grave shakes of 
 their heads, that this was a bad sign, and that we 
 should soon have a gale; which unfortunately 
 came true. The three Chinese Mongols, who 
 had stuck to us up to this time, much against our 
 will, had become so obnoxious to us for their 
 pilfering and other disagreeable propensities, that 
 we intimated pretty plainly we should not allow 
 them to accompany us any longer. They were 
 constantly asking either for eatables or some- 
 thing or other, with a perseverance which was 
 most annoying. At last, finding one of them coolly 
 helping himself to a biscuit I had left in my cart, 
 I presented my revolver at bim ; and then we in- 
 timated, that if they did not leave us at once we 
 should proceed to force. I think our Lamas, who 
 also now saw that two would fare better than 
 five, also added their authority to ours ; for after 
 a great deal of angry altercation, and I believe 
 a great deal of abuse especially devoted to us, 
 they rode ahead on their camels, and we gradu- 
 ally lost sight of them. However, I have a sus- 
 picion that during the next two nights they 
 joined us again for a time, but we saw no more 
 of them. 
 
112 A LAND JOTJENET FROM 
 
 We had to discourage all hangers-on, as it was 
 quite enough trouble to keep stores for our own 
 wants, and we could not afford to dispense them to 
 others. During the night a strong north-west 
 wind commenced rising, and towards morning 
 increased into a gale. These winds are more feared 
 than any others by the natives, as the force they 
 attain to is almost incredible. Camels cannot even 
 stand against them. Whirlwinds of sand and stone 
 accompany them. Our Lamas intimated that if the 
 wind increased we should have to stop, and were it 
 not that we were afraid of establishing a precedent 
 we should have been only too delighted to order a 
 halt at once, for anything so horrible I never ex- 
 perienced. All my windows being broken I had 
 to stuff my pillows in the frames, but this was but 
 a poor support against this awful wind. The 
 phenomenon we had seen, foreshadowed only too 
 truly our Lamas' fears. Towards noon the vio- 
 lence of the gale somewhat abated, but the cold 
 was intense. Having nothing to drink we suffered 
 a good deal, as the sand had penetrated into our 
 hair, eyes, and mouth, and even a few biscuits 
 were nearly uneatable, being so full of sand, &c. 
 We managed however at about twelve o'clock 
 to get a little milk, which if we had not obtained 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 113 
 
 I much think we should have found it difficult to 
 go on, for we were utterly exhausted and parched. 
 
 How delightful it is, after having undergone 
 intense suffering, to feel an alleviation of it ! 
 And how soon it is all forgotten ! It changed our 
 whole thoughts, and we felt again hopeful, and 
 began to enjoy the track we were passing over, 
 which was much better and smoother. Pasture land 
 also was becoming more abundant although all the 
 grass was dried up. I calculated the distance from 
 Tsagan Tugurik to be about 120 miles. We now 
 proceeded over a plain covered with different sorts 
 of pebbles glittering in tlie sun like precious stones. 
 They were transparent and of all colours and shapes, 
 and amongst them lots of flints and fine agate. We 
 also discovered remains of petrifaction ; which is a 
 proof that formerly this portion of the globe was 
 under water, and has since, by some convulsion of 
 nature, been raised to its present elevation. We 
 had never been, since we came into the desert, under 
 3000 feet, and at times we had travelled over 
 ground 4000 feet and more, above the sea's level. 
 It is a marvellous thing, finding a plain, standing 
 as it does, in the centre of a continent, larger than 
 England and nearly uninhabited. 
 
 We passed over some very remarkable looking 
 
 I 
 
IM A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 hills during the day which were decidedly volcanic. 
 "We discerned lava, which would prove that volcanic 
 action must have occurred here at some previous 
 period, "We also noticed plenty of ironstone, 
 copper ore, and slate, near the surface, imbedded 
 in the sand. Mongolia would be a grand field 
 for a geologist. To-day we camped near some 
 yourts, and of course had to receive the various 
 inhabitants who came to stare at us. At one time 
 we had eighteen in our tent, which, not being 
 large, rather limited us for space. "What seemed 
 to astonish them was to watch us eating our soup 
 with spoons — an excess of refinement unknown 
 amongst them ; their method being to dip a wooden 
 saucer in the caldron and haul out lumps of meat 
 with their fingers and then consume it in a second, 
 without mastication. "We never allowed fingers to 
 dip into our saucepan until we had filled our bowls, 
 after which we handed the remainder to our Lamas, 
 who disposed of it like a couple of dogs in the 
 twinkling of an eye. Thinking that, as we received 
 all these visitors, we would return their calls, we 
 wandered round in the dusk, to the nearest yourts, 
 stopping at each a short time, and partaking of an 
 awful compound called tea (but which tasted more 
 of its principalingredient, mud, than of that plea- 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 115 
 
 sa.nt leaf,) and kept up a mild conversation with 
 the few words we now knew. We eould not help 
 enjoying their excessive innocence, and I may say 
 ignorance. Producing our watches, we told them to 
 blow upon them three times ; at the third blow we 
 pressed the spring and of course the watch opened, 
 much to their wonder and delight, as they knew 
 nothing about the spring, and firmly believed 
 the three blows did the business. We had to 
 repeat this to some twenty of them, and I never 
 shall forget their astonishment; they had never 
 seen a watch before, and were quite ignorant of its 
 use. The ticking also pleased them, especially the 
 women. Their method of calculating time is by 
 the sun ; but I never could discover if they have 
 any time or dates, to correspond with ours. A 
 long six-bladed knife I had, created immense excite- 
 ment, especially a saw blade ; to possess it I have 
 no doubt they would have given me anything they 
 had ; but the climax was reached when, producing 
 our revolvers, we got one of the young Mongols to 
 put his hat upon a stick, and we sent two bullets 
 through it. We offered to let them examine them, 
 but not one of them would touch them, and they all 
 took care to keep clear of the muzzles. This was 
 good for us, as although we had no fear of the 
 
 I 2 
 
116 A LAND JOUEKEY PEOM 
 
 natives, still it created an effect and would be sure 
 protection to us. 
 
 We had a flask with us, out of which we gave 
 a little brandy to the people we visited. When 
 we proceeded to our encampment we were ac- 
 companied by the whole tribe, and as we were 
 not going to move for another three hours we 
 invited the male portion into our tent, and pro- 
 duced two bottles of whisky, a recklessness of ex- 
 travagance which we repented before long. Most 
 of them would only taste a small quantity, but two 
 old fellows. Lamas, I regret to say, we egged on, 
 plying them with the liquid, which they drank off. 
 They drank a bottle of pure spirit between them, 
 at least. As the fumes mounted to their brains 
 they sang and yelled frantically. I shall never 
 forget it, and how we laughed. At last, however, 
 the bottles being empty, the sons of these now 
 very drunk old Lamas got them up, and we could 
 hear them shouting away as they reeled home. I 
 am afraid the next day's headache must have made 
 them curse our memory. Our Lamas seemed very 
 much scandalised, but I had seen them also quietly 
 partake of a drop when they thought we were not 
 looking. 
 
 Two of the Mongols, before bidding adieu, pre- 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 117 
 
 sented us each with a curious snuffbox, a small 
 agate bottle with a little wooden spoon in it. In 
 return, we gave them each a new Hong Kong 
 dollar, which no doubt they will keep as we 
 shall also do their present, as a relic of a very 
 amusing evening. 
 
lis A LAND JOURNEY PROM 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 How the Mongols cure a Gamers cracked Hoof — The Tartar 
 Village of Wyshan — Great Dwelling-place of Lama Priests — 
 The Country for a Railroad, from Russia to China— My Camel 
 becomes untied from our Train, and I am left alone in the 
 Night in the Desert, without Food — Cocoanut returns and finds 
 me — A Lot of Marmots — ^A Plateau surrounded with Rocky 
 Mountains — Herds of Ponies, Camels, and wild Gurush — Pro- 
 visions running scarce, we purchase a Sheep of some Mongols 
 — A Difficulty in kiUing him — We kiU a wild Gurush — Signs 
 of the End of the Desert — Notwithstanding our Hardships, our 
 Retrospect a pleasant one — The way I kept Time — A Storm 
 of Sand and Stones — We visit a Yourt, to warm ourselves— The 
 half-breed Mongols bad characters — As my Head is bald I am 
 taken for a Lama— Camels without Water for Ten Days — My 
 Experience as to the Kind of Cart to travel with — We descend 
 into a deep Valley — A Russian knocks us up at Night, a sign we 
 were getting near our Journey's End — The North-east Wind 
 nearly freezes us to our Carts — An Oban— A magnifi.cent Pros- 
 pect of Rocky Crags at our Feet. 
 
 Shortly after ten o'clock we proceeded again on 
 our way ; the wind had gone down, so we managed 
 to get a httle sleep during the night, the track 
 being better. Towards morning we had to make 
 a short halt, as one of our camels had a cracked 
 foot, which, unless immediately attended to, would 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 119 
 
 have rendered him lame and useless. The mode 
 of cure is singular. The camel is made to kneel 
 down and then the nose-string is tied to the hump. 
 The Lama then makes a rush at it and over it goes 
 on its side ; another Lama then sits on its head. 
 After a slight struggle, and shrieking like a child, 
 the camel, with dismal groans, gives into its fate, and 
 then the Lama sows a thick piece of leather, with a 
 leather thong, across the crack. This only partially 
 effects a cure, as the camel never does much good 
 afterwards unless turned out to graze, in order 
 that the foot may heal properly. 
 
 Considering the amount of work camels do, 
 making a steady march every day of eighteen 
 hours without halting, and getting no food or 
 water, they certainly are remarkable animals, and 
 so patient and docile. When a camel is required to 
 work well it is kept very sparingly. I always 
 noticed that whenever we purchased a new one it 
 was very fat, and if any fodder was to be found, 
 which was seldom the ease in the desert, it was 
 not allowed for a day or two to have any. The 
 distance made this day was about thirty miles. 
 
 On the 7th, at 7"30 a.m., the thermometer stood 
 at 14° ; it was a brilliant day, and towards noon 
 it became quite warm, the thermometer reaching 
 
120 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 to 28°, but still not high enough to thaw the 
 contents of my cart. Nevertheless, it was most 
 enjoyable to us to bask in the sun after the horrible 
 cold we had been experiencing. At ten o'clock 
 we passed Wyshan, a Tartar village ; distance from 
 Tsagan Tugurik about 200 miles. It consisted of a 
 group of yourts towards the western side, painted 
 red, and a few wooden buildings on the east side 
 of the road ; this is the great dwelling-place of 
 Lama priests. There is a large monastery, where 
 they are educated. From all we could learn, 
 there are at times from two to three thousand 
 monks here. Of course it was necessary for our 
 Lamas to pay a few visits here, so we halted a 
 short time to suit them, and endeavoured to find 
 water, which however was so bad that we could 
 not drink it. It cannot help striking the traveller 
 what a country it would be for a railroad, which 
 would speedily make it the direct route from 
 Europe to China, as it is nearly flat ; engineering 
 difficulties, beyond a few cuttings, would hardly be 
 found. The only difficulty would be fuel and 
 water, but still enough could be carried to last two 
 or three days : a sufficient time for an easy journey 
 from Pekin to Urga. The traffic between China 
 and Kiachta, already very large, would be 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 121 
 
 enormous. Hardly a day passed without our over- 
 taking or meeting caravans consisting of two or 
 three hundred camels, laden with tea for Russia or 
 produce for China. A caravan takes at least forty 
 days to accomplish the journey. I cannot help 
 thinking that one of these days this must be the 
 direct route to China. With a railroad through 
 Siberia, and a line from Urga to Pekin, it could be 
 done in a very short time, compared to the now 
 long voyage by the overland route, so called, which, 
 instead of being overland, with the exception of 
 Egypt, is all by sea. To-day we had been gra- 
 dually ascending until we encamped at 5 p.m. on 
 an altitude of 4000 feet. The reason the cold 
 is so great in Mongolia is no doubt because the 
 plain is situated so much above the sea level. 
 The country here becomes much more interesting ; 
 vast undulating plains extend on all sides as far as 
 the eye reaches. Hills in front, and the grass, which 
 was however much dried up, becomes plentiful. 
 
 During the day we saw several herds of wild 
 gurush, and I had three shots with my rifle at 
 them at 900 yards* distance, and succeeded each 
 time in sending a bullet in the centre of the 
 herd, but unfortunately without result. These 
 animals resemble small deer, and are excessively 
 
122 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 timid, and scented our approach long before we 
 could ^et near them. However we were very- 
 much pleased to see them, as we now anticipated 
 some good sport, and something to while away the 
 monotony of the journey. I had tried my rifle 
 with success at large birds, and sent a bullet through 
 a small stick at 200 yards, but unfortunately 
 ammunition was getting scarce. 
 
 We encamped at the foot of a small pass, having 
 made since last night about forty miles — a good 
 day's work. Starting again at 10 p,m., we pro- 
 ceeded over the pass, reaching 4600 feet, and then 
 found ourselves in a plain again, I was very 
 tired and done up^ so managed to sleep before we 
 started, and was not awakened by the usual 
 process of harnessing in, or even by the jolting 
 we were getting, over the very rough track we 
 were passing over, being now somewhat hardened 
 to it. Our Lamas, who got very little regular 
 sleep, generally took it out on the backs of their 
 camels, and a very awkward adventure resulting 
 therefrom happened to me during the night, which 
 deterred me from eyer again sleeping comfortably 
 until we reached Kiachta, Our general method 
 of proceeding at night was, first rode one of the 
 Lamas, on a camel, holding the nose-string of the 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 123 
 
 camel harnessed into my friend's cart ; then came 
 all the baggage camels, followed by my cart, 
 and, lastly, the other Lama brought up the rear. 
 This was all right ; but the two Lamas, I suppose 
 for company's sake, rode ahead, and as we were 
 both asleep when we started we knew nothing 
 about it. For reasons I have before stated, the 
 camels a;re loosely tied together, and easily come 
 unstrung. I must have been asleep some time, 
 for, waking about one o'clock, I missed the usual 
 jolting about, and began to realise the fact that 
 the cart was not in motion. Hastily opening the 
 door, and looking all round, I discovered that I 
 was in the midst of a large plain, entirely alone, 
 the caravan, not aware of my being left behind, 
 having gone quietly along. Vainly did I shout 
 out for my travelling companions, and the names 
 of our guides ; they were far out of hearing, being 
 already out of sight. As I began to realise my 
 situation I must confess I felt extremely un- 
 happy. There were plenty of wild animals about, 
 and my camel, who was eating all he could find, 
 had strayed far away with the cart out of the 
 track, and even when they did discover my loss it 
 is uncertain whether, even if they could retrace 
 their way, they would find me. All our provisions 
 
124 A LAND JOUBNEY FEOM 
 
 had gone on, so I had also the pleasant prospect 
 of being starved. If any wandering tribe of 
 Tartars should have come down and found me all 
 alone they would have been intensely surprised, 
 especially as I could not speak to them, and 
 the result would have been perhaps fatal to me. 
 Fancy them finding a stranger seated in a cart, 
 all alone in the midst of the desert, not knowing 
 at all how he had got there ! I looked about 
 anxiously for traces of a track that the caravan 
 must have passed over, but could find none, so 
 it was evident that during my sleep the camel 
 had wandered far out of it. To make matters 
 worse, that perverse animal insisted now on lying 
 down, so all I could do was to wait quietly in 
 hope, so as not to attract attention. 
 
 It was only when I had given up aU hopes and 
 was beginning to resign myself to my fate, that to 
 my intense delight, at four o'clock, I could just 
 discern a figure on a camel in the horizon, which 
 proved to be one of the Lamas. He had been 
 searching for me for some time, and had nearly 
 given up the pursuit ; and unless he had dis- 
 covered me then would have gone on again. It 
 is very difficult to find at any time the route 
 across the desert, as there are no traces, at least 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPB. 1'25 
 
 we never could see any wheel or foot-marks, or 
 signs of them. When Cocoanut rode up to me he 
 seemed delighted ; but I was so exhausted that I 
 only climbed into my cart, leaving him to raise the 
 camel and proceed onward. I, however, poured 
 forth my wrath on him later on. After a march 
 of five hours we caught up the caravan, which 
 was waiting for us. I found my travelling com- 
 panion in a great state of anxiety, as he had 
 only discovered that I was missing a short time 
 before, and felt as helpless as I did, and of course 
 did not know what steps to take. He awoke, and 
 finding that the caravan had halted, as the usual 
 custom between us was, he shouted out for me, 
 and receiving, no reply he soon discovered the 
 state of affairs, and found that one of the Lamas 
 had gone off in search of me. "We henceforth 
 determined to have our two carts in the centre, 
 and keep, as far as we could, a watch all night. 
 This, of course, delayed our march ; but it was 
 now daylight, so we proceeded on at once, feeling 
 very thankful that it had turned out as well as it 
 had. We saw a quantity of marmots on our way. 
 They are droll little animals. They generally 
 sat on their haunches until we came quite near, 
 then, looking round at us, they would suddenly 
 
126 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 disappear into tlieir holes. All the prairies round 
 we found covered with the holes they burrow, 
 and some of them very deep. Feeling very rest- 
 less and excited after last night's adventure, I got 
 out of my cart ; it was about 7"30 a.m. I could 
 see that we were on a vast plain. The thermometer 
 was 16°, the sun had not yet risen, but the grey 
 dawn made all things distinguishable. 
 
 .There was no wind, so it felt pleasant. Soon 
 the sun rose, like a large ball of fire coming out 
 of the plain, and a truly glorious sight it was. 
 We were on what seemed a boundless tract of 
 undulating grassy prairie, covered with white 
 frost, which, as the sun rose, looked like one vast 
 expanse of glittering crystals, of all hues and 
 colours. As the day increased we could more 
 clearly perceive that we were on a table-land, sur- 
 rounded on all sides by rocky mountains. Herds 
 of ponies and camels were quietly grazing, and 
 here and there flocks of wild gurush, but too 
 distant for us to attempt to shoot them. Taking 
 the whole scene, reflected as it was by the rays 
 of the ruddy sun, pebbles glistening under foot, 
 and the stars still shining in the clear blue sky, 
 herds of animals in all directions, and the bound- 
 less extent of ground, it was a scene that I cannot 
 
ASIA TO ETJEOPE. 127 
 
 describe, I soon felt refreshed by the dear bracing 
 air, and soon forgot the predicament I had been in 
 during the night, recalling it only to laugh over 
 the absurd position I had been left in. We deter- 
 mined to-day to stalk some of the giirush, and 
 discover if it were not possible to bag one or two 
 of them. 
 
 Provisions were becoming very scarce, our stock 
 being reduced to a frozen tongue, a small piece of 
 beef, and a few biscuits and vegetables ; so we 
 looked out anxiously for a yourt, where we might 
 be able to purchase a sheep. About 11 a,m, we 
 came across one, and found flocks of fine sheep, 
 which incited us to business at once ; and after a 
 good deal of bargaining, through our Lamas, we 
 purchased a whole animal for some broken silver, 
 equivalent to about six shillings. This, however, 
 did not include the killing and preparing the 
 animal, and had we not insisted on the fact of our 
 being Lamas — it not being allowed for them to 
 touch blood — ^we should have had to slaughter and 
 skin the sheep ourselves — an operation which we 
 neither of us felt competent or willing to do. One 
 of the family thereupon, for a small quantity of 
 brick tea, undertook the job ; so leaving one of our 
 men to bring on the carcass, when ready, on his 
 
128 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 camel, we proceeded onwards. Passing over a 
 succession of plains, each finishing with an ascent, 
 where we expected, hut were continually disap- 
 pointed, to see something new, at about half a 
 mile's distance we came across a fine herd of 
 gurush. These we determined to get at, in some 
 way or other. No sooner, however, did they catch 
 sight of us than away they sped over the plain and 
 disappeared over the ridge in front, descending 
 into the next valley. This suited us well. My 
 friend, with a Colt's revolver, mounted on his pony 
 and rode round towards the end of the valley we 
 were passing through, so as to cross the ridge far 
 down and so drive them up the next valley, to the 
 other end of which I walked on. Our plan suc- 
 ceeded famously ; for no sooner had I reached the 
 summit of the grassy hill ahead than I perceived 
 my friend firing his revolver, as he headed down 
 the valley, pursuing the whole flock, which were 
 rapidly approaching towards the hill under which 
 I was taking shelter ; so, lying down, I waited 
 until they should pass. On they came, but suddenly 
 paused, sniflSng danger ; but my friend, who was 
 about 500 yards behind, was closing on them, so 
 on they came again. As they passed I picked out 
 two, and fired rapidly, being rewarded by seeing 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. V29 
 
 one fall dead ; the other, being only slightly 
 wounded, escaped. This was something like fun ! 
 We found these animals to he very similar to the 
 antelope, perhaps rather smaller, but not good 
 eating, having a very peculiar flavour. Our 
 Mongol who was with us was in a great state of 
 excitement, and when Cocoanut arrived with the 
 sheep, which looked a very unpleasant sight, slung 
 across the camel, he related our exploit to him, which 
 caused Cocoanut to repeat the word sign, which 
 means " good," with great wonderment, at close 
 intervals, for at least two hours afterwards. We 
 were rather glad we had succeeded, as, after our con- 
 tinual failures, I believe our Lamas before this rather 
 looked upon our shooting as- a myth. We con- 
 tinued to pass herds of these animals, but could not 
 again get near enough, and we did not care about 
 wasting more ammunition, as it was becoming 
 scarce. We had been continually asked on the way 
 for powder, but we never gave any away. Some of 
 the Mongols possess a sort of a gun, with a long 
 barrel ; it goes off with a fuse. I remember once, in 
 China, seeing a soldier being taught to fire off" a 
 similar weapon, but larger — what is generally called 
 a gingal. Closing his eyes he pulled the trigger, and 
 then waited, with evident trepidation, for the fuse to 
 
 K 
 
130 A LAND JOURNEY PROM 
 
 ignite the powder in the pan; which no sooner 
 happened than up went the barrel in the air, and 
 over he went. This operation he performed several 
 times, to his own disgust as well as to his in- 
 structor's, who however was too wary himself to 
 practically instruct his pupil. They are the most 
 barbarous inventions ; but I have seen Chinamen, 
 with a long light similar weapon, make good prac- 
 tice at snipe. We were travelling over an altitude of 
 3800 feet, and about 4 p.m. we ascended gradually 
 to over 5000. Grass becoi&es here more abundant, 
 but still not a sign of a tree, which we would 
 have given much to see, as a proof that we were 
 getting nearer to Urga. We both remarked here 
 that we never thought we could have stood the 
 cold so well as we had done, coming direct from 
 the south of China. But in this wonderful climate, 
 where the air is so pure and bracing, and with the 
 continual exercise, abstemious living, and even 
 hardships, it is impossible to feel otherwise than in 
 perfect health, which it is certain that, when God 
 created man, he meant him to enjoy, and which 
 he seldom does enjoy where civilisation exists. 
 
 I believe natives, in these parts, are rarely 
 troubled with illness or disease, and I do not think 
 that medicine or its administrators are known here. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 131 
 
 The only troublesome part of ihe climate is that it 
 made us so very hungry. When we could, not suf- 
 ficiently satisfy the appetite, I felt as if I could 
 eat anything. I often was glad to break my teeth 
 with a loaf of frozen bread. 
 
 Our unfortunate ponies were daily becoming not 
 only more useless, but also a burden to us, as at times 
 we could not get them to advance, and so were con- 
 stantly retarded in our progress ; although latterly 
 we had been travelling over grassy plains, which 
 gave them plenty of fodder, they had no water, for 
 with the exception of a little snow we had come 
 across during the last few days, we had none our- 
 selves ; and besides, the marching for eighteen hours 
 a day was too much for them. My animal was be- 
 coming also quite footsore. How different he looked 
 from the fiery little Tartar steed he M^as when I first 
 purchased him ! He had not now a kick in him. 
 We determined to sell them as soon as we could, 
 otherwise to abandon them at Urga. Coming across 
 a tribe of Tartars during the day, we endeavoured 
 without success to make a bargain. I believe they 
 did not understand what we wanted, only thinking 
 that we wanted to buy some more, so we gave it 
 up as a bad job. 
 
 I am sure our Mongols would have been glad to 
 
 K 2 
 
132 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 be rid of them, as, besides leading the camels, they 
 bad also to lead the ponies. On one occasion 
 Cocoanut, being fast asleep on his camel, with the 
 pony's halter tied round his arm, received a sudden 
 abasement, finding himself on the ground, the pony 
 having come to a sudden halt and pulled him out 
 of his saddle, he nearly at the same time breaking 
 his camel's nose. I am sure we could have done 
 well without the ponies^ for, with a few exceptions, 
 when we rode ahead to yourts, they were of no 
 use to lis, it being much too cold to ride, and we 
 generally walked eight to ten hours a day. We 
 calculated, when we reached Kiachta, that we had 
 walked at least 400 miles. Still proceeding over 
 the plain we bad entered in the morning, which 
 looked only about six or seven miles across, we 
 came into a more mountainous district, and now 
 began to look forward to a decided change in the 
 scenery and features of the country. The desert, 
 so far as utter sterility is concerned, certainly 
 finishes here ; for although there is no sign of cul- 
 tivation, or of vegetation of any sort, there is some 
 grass, which, doubtless, in summer months is very 
 abundant. We could see boundless prairies stretch- 
 ing forth on all sides, resembling much those found 
 in America. Of course, there being no cultivation, 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 183 
 
 bread and vegetables are commodities unknown 
 amongst the Mongols. Amongst our stores we had 
 taken with us a sack of bread ; we used to give a 
 loaf occasionally to our Lamas, and it was most 
 amusing to see them endeavouring to eat it. Be- 
 sides being stale, it was hard frozen, and the gri- 
 maces they made were very curious. I believe 
 they thought it was the natural state of bread, 
 and wondered much what we found good in it. 
 However, experientia docet. We afterwards dis- 
 covered that by soaking the bread and then putting 
 it before the fire, we managed to make it eatable. 
 
 Still in the plain . We encamped at half-past four, 
 the distance made since last evening being about 
 twenty miles. We made out, according to our 
 usual method of communicating with our Lamas 
 by the fingers, that it is possible, if all goes wel), 
 that we may reach Urga in three days, and Kiachta 
 in eight ; if so, we shall have made a very quick 
 journey across. I cannot, up to the present, speak 
 in too high praise of our Lamas, who have behaved 
 very well and given us no trouble whatever. Should 
 any one be crossing the desert and by chance ob- 
 tain these guides he would no doubt be astonished 
 to find them adepts in the art of cooking chops and 
 even in making soup, we having taught them to do 
 
134 A LAND JOUBNEY FEOM 
 
 SO, and equally surprised to liear them addressing 
 each other by the names we had given them. To- 
 night they had a grand feast on the entrails of the 
 sheep, eating until they were perfectly gorged, 
 taking in one mouthful what would have served 
 two ordinary men for a meal. We stipulated, 
 however, that they should not commence even to 
 cook their food until we had finished our dinner. 
 We then just waited to see the commencement ; 
 but the sight was too disgusting, and . soon obliged 
 us to seek our carts. The new moon made its 
 appearance, but the wind, our dreadful enemy, was 
 getting up . again, and the thermometer was gra- 
 dually falling to zero. , Writing in my cart, with 
 my Chinese lantern hanging alight in the centre, 
 some hot whisky by me, I endeavoured, but with 
 small success, to cover myself well against the wind. 
 Notwithstanding this wretched condition, looking 
 back, I did so with pleasure, and even though the 
 hardships had been great and this a?sfful wind pene- 
 trated and chilled me to the bone, , I would not 
 have missed the journey through the dSsgrt on any 
 account. 
 
 I will here mention a method I had of keeping 
 dates and days. I wrote down in a fly-leaf of my 
 diary three months with dates and 'days. Every 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 135 
 
 evening I scratched out one, thid placed the readings 
 of thermometer and barometer against it. For some 
 time this plan worked well ; later on, in Siberia, how- 
 ever, by omitting once or twice to make the erasure, 
 we occasionally lost count of days and dates. The 
 sun set this evening about four o'clock and was a 
 glorious sight, and unless seen our description would 
 not be believed. The wonderful colours, like the 
 aurora borealis, which illumined the atmosphere, 
 were so intense as to render it impossible to gaze on 
 the changing hues without experiencing a tempo- 
 rary blindness. As these changing colours faded, the 
 deep blue sky, in which each simple star shone 
 brightly enough to light up the darkness, appeared, 
 and then the moon arose, ligjjiting up the scene as 
 clearly as the sun could have done. The falling stars 
 are splendid, like comets. I have seen some dart 
 through the heavens, leaving a long tail behind, 
 which took two or three minute^ before it disap- 
 peared. Another feature is the frozen humidity in 
 the air; which falls like glittering spangles, as they 
 were during the evening illumined by the moon. 
 
 We proceeded onwards again at 10 p.m. The 
 track beiijg too rough, as was usually the case at 
 night, I could not sleep ; and besides, lasj; night' s 
 mishap prevented me also from dping so, keeping 
 
136 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 me in a continual state of fidget. Whenever we 
 stopped, even for a few moments, to allow the Lamas 
 to find the track, I always fancied I was again lost 
 and being left behind. I never got rid of this im- 
 pression until I finally bade adieu to my cart at 
 Kiachta. On the morning of the 9th, when I 
 got out of my cart it was to be nearly thrown over 
 by a north-east wind, which went right through 
 me. We could not walk against it, and more- 
 over, the clouds of sand and stones were becoming 
 intensely annoying and nearly made us blind. 
 We were unable to proceed, so for the first time 
 since we started, encamped at 11 a.m., and turned 
 our tent's back to the wind. Although we did 
 not like to confess it,-, and, consequently, appeared 
 to our Lamas to be much vexed at this delay, 
 fearing it was a precedent which should not be 
 established, we were glad to get sheltered some- 
 what from the wind. Besides being frozen and 
 half suffocated with sand we were quite exhausted, 
 and the strongest constitution would not hold out 
 much longer against the fearful gale we had been 
 facing since ten last evening. Two of the camels 
 were quite done up and refused to proceed, one of 
 them looking in a dying condition, and there were 
 no signs of camels near us ; so we were in a fix 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 137 
 
 and uncertain what to do, Cocoanut, however, 
 left us in search, promising to return as soon as 
 possible, 
 
 "We were encamped in a large plain ; on our 
 right were some lofty mountains, called the Rich 
 Mountains, probably on account of metals being 
 found in them. There was also plenty of snow and 
 ice about, so we had water in abundance. The 
 thermometer stood at 2° above zero. As we 
 determined to start again so soon as Cocoanut 
 should return, we pitched our tent, lighted our fire, 
 and prepared our usual one meal per day, eating as 
 much as we could, to tide us over until next day at 
 5 p.M, We also bottled some soup ; however, we 
 might have saved ourselves the trouble of doing 
 this, as it froze very soon afterward, and only ren- 
 dered our bottles useless. We hardly ever got 
 anything to drink except when we halted, and not 
 always then. Seeing a yourt near us, after dinner 
 we proceeded to it, taking some chocolate, in case 
 we could obtain some milk to boil it with. Putting 
 aside the felt door we entered, but found no one at 
 home, not even the inevitable dog, an animal which 
 we generally found in all the yourts, and so watch- 
 ful that no amount of persuasion would prevent him 
 from attempting to bite us ; an endeavour which 
 
138 A LAKD JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 generally ended in the dog being tied down by the 
 head to a stake during our stay. We blew up the 
 fire, which was smouldering, and over which was 
 the usual caldron with snow water in it, and pro- 
 ceeded to boil it, so as to make our chocolate. 
 Whilst engaged in this operation the inevitable 
 dog, who had evidently not been far off, sniffed us 
 out, and we had the pleasure of seeing him pushing 
 under the door. No sooner had he done this than 
 he commenced a most savage onslaught on us, 
 whicb we had great trouble in repelling, the yourt 
 being too low to allow us to stand upright. I think 
 the battle would have gone against us, as we had no 
 sticks, it being considered a sign of great discour- 
 tesy to bring one into a yourt, when the owner, a 
 very ancient dame, with a basket full of argolots 
 in her hand, entered, and looked very much as- 
 tonished to see us ; but she soon called off the dog 
 and tied him down, so we could only hear the 
 sullen grunt of that indignant but unconquered 
 animal. 
 
 A smiling countenance, the usual greeting, and 
 a few small coins, soon produced a hearty wel- 
 come, and the ancient dame, busily making up the 
 fire, chattered incessantly, not waiting for our 
 answers, which, as we had none to give, relieved 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 139 
 
 US of attempting an impossibility. She very much 
 liked the chocolate, so we gave her a small supply. 
 Feeling warmed and better we bade our old friend 
 adieu, and shaped our way to our tent again. It 
 was now 3 p.m., and we anxiously looked for Cocoa- 
 nut, but as yet there was no sign of him. The 
 violence of the wind had increased ; our tent 
 was swaying about, and required double stays 
 to keep it from being carried bodily away ; the 
 fire was extinguished, and the shades of evening 
 were coming on. To make things worse, a storm 
 of sleet also came on. Yainly did we endeavour 
 to get warm, and dreary seemed the prospect 
 before us. It is a wonder to me, now that I 
 am comfortably seated in a warm room writing 
 this, how we did manage to survive the fearful 
 discomfort these storms brought on us Unless 
 any one has experienced these winds in the desert, 
 from which there is no protection, he cannot 
 imagine their fearful intensity. The only thing 
 we could do was to retreat into our carts, and 
 wrap up as well as our benumbed fingers and hands 
 would let us ; but all the furs, blankets, &c., were 
 of Kttle use. Certainly our carts were back to 
 the wind. What it would have been, were 
 we proceeding onwards with my three windows 
 
140 A LAND JODENEY FEOM 
 
 broken I dare not contemplate. Monkey having 
 nothing to do, with his assistance I managed 
 to nail some felt over the frames, which, how- 
 ever, excluded all daylight, but only a small 
 portion of the wind. Seven o'clock, and still 
 no signs of Cocoanut with new camels. I half 
 believe it is a ruse of our head Lama, as he has 
 been entertaining various friends of his, who have 
 galloped up to the tent during the last two hours 
 at intervals, from suspiciously near distances. I 
 expect that Cocoanut has gone off to some feed or 
 other, alleging the difficulty of procuring camels as 
 an excuse. If we find it to be so^ Messrs. Monkey 
 and Cocoanut will suffer in a pecuniaiy point of 
 view for keeping us a whole day longer in this 
 inclement country. 
 
 I must say here that the charms of the Mongol 
 natives had somewhat worn off. Perhaps I am 
 describing feelings rather aggravated by the cold 
 winds ; but the more one sees of the caravan 
 Mongols the less one likes them. Of course there 
 are many exceptions. I am speaking as a general 
 rule. They are always asking for spirits or money, 
 or something, and among them there are some 
 very bad characters. These ai'e not however pure 
 Mongols, but half Chinese. There are many who 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. Ill 
 
 drink a large quantity of noxious spirit like arrack, 
 and very rank stuff it is. I am afraid our Lamas 
 tell them we have whisky ; hence the continual 
 bother for it. The Lamas have their heads shaven 
 close and wear no tail. I always pass for one, as 
 unfortunately my hair is getting scant at the top. 
 We find all through the regions we have been 
 passing that yourts are becoming very scarce and 
 far between, as upon the first approach of winter 
 most of the inhabitants pack up their tents, and 
 with their families and herds migrate to Ta-Kurin, 
 or Urga, and take up their abode there, returning 
 again into the wilderness in spring. During our 
 stay to-day another of our camels underwent the 
 process of having a leathern patch sewn over his 
 foot. I do not think that any of our animals 
 have had water for ten days. The ponies, who 
 have been making the best of the halt, seem much 
 better, so much so that when I approached mine 
 this evening he lashed out at me, and bolted away 
 at a fine pace. 
 
 Oocoanut returned at last, at 11 a.m., so he had 
 wasted a great many hours, and although we felt 
 it our bounden duty to appear very angry, really 
 at heart we were very much pleased at the delay, 
 as, for the first time for many nights, we managed 
 
142 A LAND JOUENET FEOM 
 
 to get sleep for a few hours. Cocoanut, who was 
 always in good spirits, even under the most trying 
 circumstances, when Monkey would become useless, 
 was not at all put out at our venting our indigna- 
 tion at him, but, with his usual grunt — which 
 intimated he had been spending a pleasant day — 
 proceeded at once to make ready for proceeding on 
 our journey, and loaded the new camels — which 
 were first-rate animals, one of them being pure 
 white — with our baggage. Another old Lama 
 joined us, and intimated his desire to accom- 
 pany us; but this we decidedly objected to, as 
 besides being a dirty, disagreeable old man, our 
 stores were scant, and not fenough, we feared, to 
 last us to Urga ; however, we could hear him 
 jabbering away with our men, so no doubt he 
 attempted to proceed during the night with us. 
 These old Lamas, when wanting to travel, leave 
 such material things as provisions, &c., to Provi- 
 dence, join the first caravan they see, and, for the 
 blessing of their company — a blessing not always 
 appreciated — accept being fed and sometimes even 
 clothed. However, as we had no special reverence 
 for these very dirty wanderers, we always stood 
 out against any accessions of them. 
 
 We proceeded onwards, with incessant halts, my 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 143 
 
 camel evincing his dislike to drawing my cart by- 
 kicking violently, without any effect, as far as the 
 cart was concerned, but with great detriment to his 
 own legs, as after a time he gave up the trial as a bad 
 job. At 5 A.M. we came to a halt again ; the camels 
 were taken out of the carts in a moment, and turned 
 back to the wind, which was blowing fiercer than 
 ever; we could only see we were halted on the 
 brink of what seemed a precipice. Expostulations 
 were in vain, as Monkey had disappeared this time ; 
 the usual excuse being given, that he had gone to 
 get camels, and he was soon followed by Cocoanut ; 
 so we found ourselves left to our own reflections, 
 entirely alone, with six camels and two ponies to 
 look after. This was a bit of coolness we could 
 not put up with ; but what could we do ? And if 
 this sort of thing was to go on we might make up 
 our minds to an indefinite sojourn in Mongolia. 
 Besides, it was annoying, being the only real hitch 
 we had had since we started, and the weather 
 looked very bad. I am afraid I was premature in 
 praising our Lamas ; a little moral persuasion with 
 a good thick stick, if we could have come across 
 them just then, would have decidedly resulted from 
 this last trick of theirs. I am persuaded the old 
 Lama was at the bottom of it, as he took care to 
 
144 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 leave us before morning — one of our forks and a tin 
 goblet going with Him, wbich was an irreparable 
 loss to us. Monkey, who I believe knew all about 
 it, as he afterwards stole a fur cap of mine, declared 
 we must have left them behind at the last halting- 
 place. Luckily my travelling companion was fast 
 asleep, and so in happy ignorance I heard him 
 shout out, Hordan jaho I (go quickly) ; but as I 
 did not hear him again I concluded he had slept 
 again, under the impression that we were making 
 rapid progress, and I had not the heart to awaken 
 him. As I could not sleep — feeling very unsettled 
 in my mind, not knowing where we happened to 
 be, or indeed if our Lamas had left us in the lurch, 
 and hence feeling the necessity of keeping watch — • 
 I lighted my lamp and my pipe, and, stuffing up 
 every crack I could find in my cart, made myself 
 as comfoitable as I could. I certainly should 
 have much liked to be able to drink the soup I 
 had bottled, but it was too hard frozen ; however, 
 by this time we had both become too much accus- 
 tomed to suffer hunger and thirst to grumble when 
 we had nothing. I find recorded in my diary the 
 following, written during this halt : " If I had 
 ever to travel again through Mongolia, which may 
 the Fates defend ! 1 would have a light cart built. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 145 
 
 six feet long and four broad, with strong wooden 
 springs. The inside should be well lined with 
 felt, and should have good deep shelves all round, 
 about one foot from the roof, and plenty of pockets ; 
 and I would only have one large glass window in 
 front, with good strong shutters to it, in case of 
 its breaking. I think the journey also could be 
 done in much shorter time by taking mules on for 
 three or four days — of course it would be necessary 
 to carry sustenance for them — and so getting over 
 250 miles, or nearly a third of the journey; the 
 camels to be sent on some days in advance, with 
 all heavy baggage, to await the arrival of the carts 
 and mules. More than this could not be done, 
 as the cart could not carry enough fodder for those 
 places where all grass ceases, and where there is 
 but little water to be found. I would never travel 
 with my own tent, as the Mongols who accom- 
 panied us always had one, which suits all purposes, 
 for cookingj &c. It is much better to sleep in the 
 cart, and thus save the trouble and loss of time of 
 first putting one's bedding in the tent, and then, 
 when starting again, having to transfer it to the 
 cart ; which, besides doing away with any chances 
 of sleep, makes it very disagreeable in cold weather. 
 Oxir rule was always to halt at 4 to 5 p.m., have 
 
 L 
 
146 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 our dinner, then retire into cart at 7 p.m., and read 
 and smoke, and get as mticli sleep as possible until 
 10 or 11 P.M., when we started again; this, with 
 the thermometer at zero and a north-east wind 
 blowing, is much preferable to having to transfer 
 the bedding from the tent to the cart." 
 
 We now looked forward to seeing the river 
 Toll, which we have to cross before reaching 
 TJrga. This is generally looked upon as the most 
 difficult part of the journey, as after snow or rain 
 it becomes flooded and dangerous to ford, so we 
 were somewhat anxious to reach it. However, 
 there cannot have been much rain or snow lately, 
 as we have, with one or two exceptions, experienced 
 dry weather since we left Pekin, twenty-two days 
 ago, although a great deal of snow must have fallen 
 in some parts, considering the quantity we have 
 passed over at various times. The ordinary Mongol 
 hat, made of fur, provided us with a capital night- 
 cap. Not that, as a rule, I wear that commodity, 
 but when the wind is whistling through every 
 crevice in a rotten .old cart it wraps one's face 
 up, like being in a bag, and keeps away all 
 draughts. I cannot recommend it too strongly 
 to the notice of any traveller who may find 
 himself persuaded to undergo this journey, the 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 147 
 
 greatest drawback of which is that it is much too 
 long. 
 
 At 8 A.M. on the 10th, our Lamas having returned, 
 we were all ready for a start again, and descended 
 a rather steep incline, which the camels felt some 
 difficulty in getting down. We calculated that we 
 had lost at least a day by the various delays we 
 had been put to latterly. Up to one o'clock we had 
 continued to pass over a series of undulating grassy 
 plains, covered with snow, and expecting as we 
 reached the end of each of them to see something 
 new. But as plain after plain appeared, and the 
 north-east wind increased again, disgusted and 
 weary we retired into our carts, with a vain en- 
 deavour to get warm. The thermometer was only 
 12°, but I often found it warmer with the thermo- 
 meter several degrees below zero when there was 
 no wind. At last, at one o'clock, all of a sudden, 
 we found ourselves at an elevation of 3600 feet, at 
 the brink of a rapid descent into a large valley 
 surrounded with innumerable ranges of mountains. 
 It was a splendid sight, and so new to us after our 
 monotonous sixteen days in the desert. 
 
 The descent into the valley, however, was a 
 matter of some difficulty, being very abrupt, and 
 it was with many misgivings that we saw our 
 
 L 2 
 
148 A LAND JODENEY FROM 
 
 camels and carts slipping and sliding over the 
 snow; but we accomplished the descent in safety. 
 Marching across the plain, with a bitter wind 
 blowing, we reached the entrance to another larger 
 valley at 6 p.m., where we encamped for the night. 
 All the water about being frozen, we had to collect 
 snow for our use. We could not yet discover any 
 signs of trees, &c., on the mountains, but from the 
 change in the aspect of the country, we expected 
 shortly to reach the woods which we were to pass 
 by before coming to Urga. 
 
 Certainly this evening, weary and hungry as 
 we were, we found the innumerable Mongols who 
 flocked in troops to our tents a nuisance. We had 
 become by this time very tired of continually being 
 made a sort of an exhibition of, and watched while 
 we ate our daily meals. My travelling companion 
 was a famous fellow, full of resources, as most 
 Americans are, and always, notwithstanding the 
 difficulties and hardships, in good spirits. I am 
 convinced in a journey like this it is always better 
 to travel only two together, as it is impossible to 
 differ materially on any important point connected 
 with the journey ; three would be one too many, and 
 four give rise to all manner of discussions and dif- 
 ferences. We both began now to look forward to 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 149 
 
 an early terniination of our journey as far as 
 Kiachta, and to wish most ardently that we were 
 there, as going through a desert for sixteen days 
 takes oif the first novelty a bit, and makes one 
 begin to think that there is a great deal too much 
 of a good thing to be entirely agreeable. But 
 still, notwithstanding the cold winds and various 
 hardships, we both found ourselves better and 
 stronger than when we started. Nothing like a 
 similar journey to prove a man's constitution. To- 
 day, being the birthday of Walcott's sister, we 
 drank our last bottle of sherry, which reduced 
 our liquids to a small quantity of whisky. To- 
 night the moon shone brightly and the wind died 
 away, so that, with the combined influence of the 
 sherry, we felt tolerably comfortable. We still saw 
 plenty of grouse by the way. Up to this time we 
 certainly (with the exception of the wind) were 
 most fortunate, having met with no rain and very 
 little snow. The thermometer, however, never had 
 been over 32° since leaving Kalgan. 
 
 We started again at 11 p.m., and as the way 
 was not so rough I managed to snooze a bit, but 
 was always afraid of being left behind. As I was 
 getting into a sleep at about one o'clock I was 
 awakened by some one tugging violently at my 
 
150 A LAND JOUENET FROM 
 
 door ; but thinking it was some wandering Mongol, 
 who probably when I had turned out of my warm 
 coverings would only pester me for drink or some- 
 thing or other, which generally made me so angry 
 that I was afraid of being tempted to shoot them, 
 I remained quiet ; so presently, after the door was 
 nearly pulled off its hinges, the tugging ceased. 
 But soon I heard my travelling companion, who 
 had been aroused in the same manner, shouting 
 out, and I understood him to say, " A rufSan is 
 bothering me !" so only turning over, I shouted 
 in reply, " Shoot him then !" The knocking and 
 pulling at my door recommencing, I hastily got 
 up, and, revolver in hand, opened the door, deter- 
 mined anyhow to make an example of the destroyer 
 of my rest ; but it proved to be a Russian, who, 
 seeing me looking very angry with a revolver in 
 hand, appeared rather alarmed. Whither he was 
 bound or what he wanted, I could not make out 
 at all. My travelling companion had sent him to 
 me, as he could not understand him, and he thought 
 that probably I could converse with him in German 
 or French. However, these languages he was 
 ignorant of, and he soon disappeared and we saw 
 him no more. We were very sorry that our in- 
 ability to speak with this stranger prevented us 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 151 
 
 from gathering any information as to how far we 
 were from Urga, and the nature of the country. 
 He was the first approach to a European we had 
 seen since leaving Kalgan, being a sort of a half- 
 Mongol and half-Eussian. Our Lamas, whose ideas 
 were confined to Mongolia and Russia, seemed very 
 much surprised that we were unable to understand 
 Russian, and I think we fell in their estimation 
 accordingly. After this of course all sleep vanished, 
 so we got out of our carts and walked. We were 
 gradually ascending into a hilly country, and early 
 in the morning found ourselves 5000 feet over the 
 sea-level. The scenery here was very wild, but, 
 being quite barren, was not interesting. I have 
 spoken much of the horrors of the wind we had 
 experienced at times, but nothing we had yet gone 
 through came up to what we experienced this well- 
 remembered day. It was in vain we endeavoured 
 by walking to induce circulation of the blood ; such 
 a hurricane was blowing, and showers of sleet, 
 driving with fury against us, and cutting into our 
 faces. The thermometer stood at 8°. Finding we 
 could not endure the wind, we had to betake our- 
 selves to the carts, but we were frozen. It was much 
 too cold to think of eating some biscuits (which we 
 were generally able to dispose of for lunch) with 
 
152 A LAND JOUENEY FBOM 
 
 such a north-east wind blowing that it was nearly 
 impossible to stand against it. Ice and snow were 
 all round, clouds heavy and full of snow scudding 
 away overhead, it would be impossible, if not felt, 
 to realise the intensity the cold reaches. Nose, 
 ears, fingers, and toes vanish, or seem to do so ; 
 for with the exception of a constant desire to blow 
 one's nose, which, however, it is not easy to ac- 
 complish, as fingers are quite useless, all these 
 members of the body become to all appearances 
 dead. Finding the shelter the carts afforded even 
 intolerable we hung on behind, putting on all our 
 furs, and toiled along. In this manner, partially 
 screened from the wind, we were at last rewarded 
 by coming across a yourt, into which we hastily 
 dived, and had a good warm by the fire and partook 
 of some hot milk, after which, feeling much better, 
 we proceeded to breast the storm. Still ascending, 
 at 2 P.M. we reached a sort of a small table-land at 
 the summit of a pass. The elevation, being 6800 
 feet, presented one of the grandest and finest spec- 
 tacles that we saw during the whole journey. We 
 stood for shelter behind a huge obon, our camels 
 and carts being now far behind us ; indeed, as we 
 watched them toiling up, we had serious misgivings 
 of their ever reaching the summit, every now and 
 
ASIA TO EDEOPE. 153 
 
 then one of tlie camels lying down and refusing 
 to stir, and of course one of the Lamas had ridden 
 off to see a friend, which one or other invariably 
 did when most wanted. 
 
 I will here, with permission, describe an obon. 
 At the summit of all the hills we passed we gene- 
 rally found one or more of them. They are gene- 
 rally pyramidal, and consist of stones, wood, &c., 
 thrown by all Lamas, before descending the hill. 
 Each as he passes throws a stone or piece of wood, 
 or plucks a handful of hair from off his camel, on 
 the obon, and so in time many of them attain to a 
 large mass. This is done to propitiate the evil 
 spirits who are supposed to dwell about these re- 
 gions, without which it would be considered unsafe 
 to commence the descent. Our Lamas finding us 
 one day throwing some of the stones off an obon 
 down a hill — we doing it in perfect ignorance — 
 were horror-struck, and very unwilling to com- 
 mence the descent ; and if anything had happened 
 of course they would have blamed us for the 
 accident. 
 
 From whence we were standing, partly screened 
 by the obon from the fury of the wind, we looked 
 down a precipice into a valley surrounded on all 
 sides by a sea of rocks, crags, and mountains, all 
 
154 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 jumbled together in confusion, as if some convul- 
 sion of nature had thrown them together pell- 
 mell. Snow ridges to the right, called Tsagan, 
 or White Mountains, attained to what seemed a 
 great elevation even from where we were stand- 
 ing, and for the first time we could discern on the 
 crests of some of the less lofty mountains small 
 patches of fir trees. The sight was one not easily 
 to be forgotten. Heavy clouds were drifting 
 amidst the mountains and through the valley at 
 our feet, here and there a gleam of the sun was 
 resting on a rocky crag, and hills and rocks in all 
 directions around. Although the wind was rapidly 
 freezing us we could hardly tear ourselves away 
 from this sight. It looked like a picture an artist 
 might make as a subject for the infernal regions 
 or the end of the world, so wild and so different 
 was it from anything we had seen before. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 155 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Our Provision Camel is lost, and Cocoannt goes ia search of him — 
 The other Camels refuse to descend the steep Incline, and the 
 Ponies scamper off— Our remaining Guide goes to get Water, and 
 we have to lead the Camels and Horses — Our remarkable Appear- 
 ance in our Sheep-skin Clothing — Cocoanut and Monkey return 
 again ■with the missing Camel— The Winter the best Season to do 
 the Journey in — ^Pleasures of a free Life in the Desert — We cross 
 the Eiver Toll on the Ice — We reach the Chinese town of Mai- 
 Mai-Chin — We visit the Russian Consulate— The Vioe-Consul 
 greets us with Delight — The only Europeans he had seen for a 
 long time — We take leave of the Mongolian Desert here, and 
 enter Siberia — Eussia gradually encroaching upon the whole of 
 Mongolia — Mai-Mai-Chin, the residence of the Lama King — 
 Account of the Lama Bang, and his Method of Succession — We 
 taste the Pleasures of Civilisation once more — We sell our Ponies 
 here and start the same Day — An unpleasant Adventure in my 
 Cart — We start against our Lama's Wishes — Oxen engaged to 
 take us up the Mountain Pass — Queer Costume of the Eemale 
 Driver — Perils of the Descent — We continue to ascend and 
 descend. 
 
 We now for the first time missed the camel which 
 was laden with our baggage and provisions, and on 
 inquiring into the matter found that Cocoanut — 
 who had been absent some time, and who- we 
 thought was, as usual, visiting some friend or 
 
156 A LAND JOUBNET FROM 
 
 other — had gone in search of him. This rather dis- 
 mayed us, especially when we found that the camel 
 had strayed away the preceding night ; and as we 
 had no other baggage or provisions to depend upon 
 if it were not found we should have been in a very 
 awkward dilemma. The worst of it was that, by 
 experience, we had come to the conclusion that our 
 Lamas were, without exception, the most extra- 
 ordinary liars (I believe, innocently, because they 
 saw no fault in lying,) we ever came across, and it 
 was impossible to believe any statement they made ; 
 and we feared that Cocoanut had decamped with 
 the baggage. So we had only now one Lama to 
 look after our two carts, five camels, and two ponies, 
 and he in a state of helplessness from the cold. To 
 make matters worse, we had a nearly perpendicular 
 path, about 800 feet down, to descend, and all 
 covered with hard snow. We had to tie up the 
 wheels of our carts, but Monkey clearly was in a 
 fix, for not a camel would stir, and so soon as ever 
 a move was made one of them would get loose; 
 this game went on for some time, when he lost all 
 patience, let go the ponies' halters, and made signs 
 to me to take charge of them, while my fellow- 
 traveller helped to urge the camels on. But once 
 the ponies finding themselves loose, it was all very 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 157 
 
 well for me to attempt to get at them again, but as 
 I approached, with a flourish of their heels, off they 
 were ; and after darting about after them for a 
 long time, and nearly, once or twice, falling over a 
 precipice, I managed to get hold of the halters; 
 but my fingers were too benumbed for me to hold 
 them, so I handed them over to my friend, who 
 had been enjoying my capers after the ponies, but 
 could not help me, having charge of three camels. 
 Taking charge of three camels, with a huge 
 whip in my hand, which I could hardly feel, we at 
 last, after a good deal of persuasion, began a move 
 downwards; the huge ungainly camels stepping 
 and sliding about in an alarming manner, and 
 several times bringing our carts unpleasantly close 
 to a precipice at the side of the track. My fellow- 
 traveller went down hill much faster than he 
 wished, as the ponies, setting off, took him down 
 after them at no end of a pace. I found it no easy 
 work to keep on my legs, the snow being excessively 
 slippery, and I expected every minute to have the 
 animals I was leading striding over me. It took us 
 fully half an hour to accomplish this descent ; as, so 
 soon as our carts and camels made a helpless slide 
 towards the precipice, they had to be pulled up by 
 turning half round. This sort of operation, in a 
 
158 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 gale of wind, was very trying ; and when at last 
 we did reach the bottom safely our Lama returned 
 thanks to the spirits who, in his belief, had be- 
 friended us. "We now passed a well which we 
 could never have discovered ourselves. It is curious 
 how the Mongols always know where water is to 
 be found ; there are certain indications of its where- 
 abouts perfectly unknown to the stranger. "We 
 seldom found them at fault, when a spring was 
 anywhere near, although it often turned out to 
 produce bad and dirty water. Still, we were always 
 too thankful to get any supplies to be fastidious. 
 Monkey now rode away with the water-buckets 
 slung on his camel, to fill them, so I was left to 
 lead the whole caravan, my friend having charge 
 of the ponies. We could not help remarking, what 
 would our friends at home say if they coxild only 
 see us so employed ; dressed in long sheepskin 
 coats, fur boots and large fur hats, with huge 
 whips, trudging along leading a lot of camels on ? 
 Of course, no sooner did we find ourselves alone 
 than the camels came loose, and no sooner did we 
 get the one who had come loose attached again than 
 another came undone, and so on until we nearly 
 went mad running about catching them, and all to 
 no purpose. So at last, loosing all patience, I firmly 
 
ASIA- TO EtISOPE. 159 
 
 attached the last animal to the one before, as he 
 would come undone every time I started; this 
 answered for a few minutes very well, but the 
 refractory animal suddenly sat down, and as his 
 nose-string was firmly attached to the caravan, it 
 tugged the bit of wood which went through his 
 nostril clean out, and we thought his nose was 
 broken, as it was bleeding ; if so, we might as well 
 leave him, as he woxild be useless ; however, he 
 carried our tent and saddles, and as we had already 
 lost one, this was rather a sad contemplation. How- 
 ever, as we could not go on now until the Lamas 
 joined us, we sat down quietly and waited. Monkey 
 soon returning, with plenty of water, eased our 
 minds as regards the camel's nose, and soon placed 
 the leading-string through it again ; and suddenly 
 Oocoanut appeared with the missing camel and our 
 baggage, very mysteriously, from a yourt which 
 we passed, which made us conclude that he had 
 gone on the night before to see some friends, 
 taking the baggage-camel as an excuse, and so 
 leaving us to do all the work. It was very impu- 
 dent, but we could do nothing. This was one of 
 the hardest days we had ; and we were not sorry 
 when, after crossing a valley, we encamped at the 
 foot of a mountain covered with snow, which 
 
160 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 partially screened us from the wind. Here we felt 
 we might bid the desert adieu, although the track 
 is sometimes so designated as far as to Kiachta. 
 
 I would strongly advise any who wish to travel 
 by this route to do so at the season of the year 
 that we did ; for although it is cold, and the winds 
 are disagreeable, still there is no fear of rain and 
 but little of snow. The ground is in better order, 
 being hard and frozen. In the summer, from all 
 we could learn, the rains are very heavy, which 
 makes travelling disagreeable. The caravans all 
 travel in the autumn and winter months. Tra- 
 vellers should take as little baggage as possible, 
 but be well supplied with stores, for it is difficult 
 in the winter season to obtain even mutton, which 
 in other seasons is abundant. 
 
 The camels, if only lightly laden, will do more 
 work and get on quicker. A little broken silver or 
 a few Hong Kong coins will be found useful, and 
 a slab or two of brick tea goes a. long way. Travel 
 all day until 4 p.m., stop then until 10 p.m. It is, 
 however, always necessary to look after the guides, 
 as if not urged on they would make longer halts. 
 
 The journey through the desert affords but little 
 variety or interest, but it opens the mind to quite 
 a new state of affairs, and a perfectly free wander- 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 161 
 
 ing life, with no hotel bills to pay or taxes to 
 be summoned for, but simply to take up your 
 quarters where you like and do as you like without 
 reference to any one, is not at all disagreeable for 
 a time. In fact, a degree of perfect freedom is 
 experienced which it would be impossible to find 
 whilst travelling through any civilised regions. 
 Of course one must set out with the full idea 
 of roughing it in the extreme and making the 
 best of everything. It is no use complaining and 
 comparing things with what one is used to find in 
 a civilised quarter of the globe, but having deter- 
 mined to settle down to a month's wandering, must 
 make up one's mind to appreciate and enjoy all we 
 see to the utmost. 
 
 It is wonderful how a journey like this developes 
 traits in a man's character. Things that he would 
 have considered impossible of accomplishment at 
 home, become quite easy, and are accepted as a 
 matter of fact, and the bump of invention is cer- 
 tainly wonderfully brightened by necessity. I 
 certainly would not care to make this journey 
 again ; but I consider that to a traveller who can 
 afibrd to take his time, and who likes really to see 
 something out of the ordinary hackneyed beaten 
 track, is willing to rough it when necessary, and is 
 
 M 
 
162 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 prepared for any emergency, this route is a most 
 recommendable one. Of course, if attacked by 
 sickness in all probability it would go hard with 
 the traveller, as he would find little or no sym- 
 pathy from the natives, and might probably be 
 deserted by his guides, and never be heard of 
 again, as they would take good care not to turn up 
 at the Russian frontier for fear of being suspected 
 of having murdered him. 
 
 The Mongols of the Desert, compared with the 
 Chinese, are certainly inferior as regards inven- 
 tiveness and cunning ; but they are immeasurably 
 sxiperior in other respects, being an open, honest, 
 hardy race of men, hospitable and kind. They 
 are splendid horsemen, and if properly drilled and 
 disciplined would make first-rate cavalry. The 
 Emperor of China, although nominally lord of this 
 part of the world, has no more authority over its 
 inhabitants than I have. They possess however 
 one fault, which is generally found amongst savage 
 nations, that is, an overweening curiosity, which 
 at times we found very disagreeable indeed, and 
 this sometimes merged into a begging propensity; 
 I do not believe for actual begging's sake, but an 
 envy to possess something as a relic from us. 
 Wo often wondered we were not attacked and 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 163 
 
 robbed, considering how easy it might have been 
 done ; but whether onr revolvers awed them, or 
 whether out of respect for the Lamas, or on ac- 
 count of their own natural honesty, as a EUatter 
 of fact we were not molested, except by the 
 wandering Caravan Mongols, who are a very 
 inferior race. 
 
 We soon noticed as we advanced onwards that 
 all the yourts were fenced towards the north-east 
 with strong wooden fences, about six or seven feet 
 high, the planks being close together and plastered 
 with mud. This is to give protection against the 
 fury of the winds which prevail, especially in this 
 part of Mongolia, during the winter. To-night 
 we had a long chat about our journey thus far, and 
 felt happy to have arrived safely where we were 
 then encamped; at the same time the increasing 
 cold and severity of the weather gave us warning 
 that unless we wished to trifle with our health 
 we had better now make as much expedition as 
 we could to reach Kiachta. Without giving way 
 to any useless anxieties, we certainly both agreed 
 that we could not well stand a continuation of the 
 hardships we had been enduring for many days 
 longer, at all events. We had one great conso- 
 lation, and that was, that we hoped to reach the 
 
 M 2 
 
1C4 A LA^fD JODEKEY FKOM 
 
 River Toll to-morrow, and after crossing it to 
 strike on Urga, where a Bussian consul lives. 
 We certainly had wandered thus far without any 
 definite idea of our whereabouts, but our calcu- 
 lations as to distances pi'Dved in the sequel quite 
 correct. 
 
 "We started on our way again, rather later than 
 usual, at 11.30 p.m. It was a splendid night, but 
 bitterly cold. Providentially the wind had gone 
 down, which was a blessing we were duly thankful 
 for. All went smoothly except the road, which 
 was one of the roughest we had passed over. We 
 were continuing on a gentle descent, until sud- 
 denly down came my camel, and away I slid to 
 the end of my cart, nearly doubled up, and for 
 some time nearly suffocated, unable to extricate 
 myself from ray wraps and bags which had 
 descended on the top of me. It took nearly an 
 hour before the camel was induced to rise again, 
 and I had to turn out during that time and stand 
 shivering in the cold. However, we managed 
 after some loss of time to get on again. On the 
 morning of the 12th,i we found ourselves in a 
 valley surrounded on all sides by rocky moun- 
 tains, some covered with fir trees, but all clad 
 with snow. It was bitterly cold, the thermometer 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 165 
 
 standing at 8° above zero. The sun rose about 
 8.30 A.M., and we could then distinguish faint 
 outlines, to our great joy, of the Chinese town 
 of Mai-Mai-Chin, which means " entrance town," 
 the first town or village we had seen for seventeen 
 days. This made us feel that we were really in 
 the right direction, and in a week at longest 
 would end our journey as far as carts and camels 
 were concerned. 
 
 The River Toll or Tula, which is a branch of 
 the Lena before it enters the Lake Baikal, crosses 
 the valley, and we looked forward with much 
 anxiety to reaching its banks, as we anticipated 
 delay and difficulty in crossing it, as at times it 
 becomes very much swollen . and consequently is 
 difficult to ford, and there is no ferry communi- 
 cation. All the way this river had been a bug- 
 bear to us, as we had heard from Russians that 
 sometimes it was impossible to cross, and so we 
 might be delayed some time, which was a prospect 
 anything but agreeable to us. 
 
 We noticed that our Lamas seemed anxious, 
 making use of the word moo, bad, and then 
 pointing to the river. As we approached, one of 
 them rode forward to reconnoitre. We fully 
 expected to have to ford the river, and it would 
 
166 A LAND JOUENET FROM 
 
 necessitate our taking all our bedding and other 
 contents out of our carts, for fear of their being 
 spoiled by the water — no joke on a cold day, 
 when fingers were useless, and besides, a great 
 nuisance, as we should have had to disarrange 
 everything. 
 
 Our Lama ahead had reached the river and com- 
 menced gesticulating violently ; but what he meant 
 until we came up to him we had no idea. When 
 we did so, to our great delight we found that the 
 water was frozen hard ; and so now, beyond the 
 difficulty of urging our camels down the steep 
 banks and preventing our carts from capsizing, we 
 had no obstacles in our way. 
 
 After a short contest with the camels and a good 
 deal of trouble with our carts, we found ourselves 
 safe at the other side of the river, and congratu- 
 lated ourselves on having so successfully sur- 
 mounted what is, at other seasons, the greatest 
 difficulty of the whole journey. 
 
 We had been existing on very small supplies of 
 water for some days, so it may be imagined how 
 glad we were to be able to fill our bottles through 
 the holes in the ice, although our fingers were 
 nearly frost-bitten by so doing ; and the draught 
 of the pure river-water was the sweetest we had 
 
ASIA. TO EUROPE. 167 
 
 ever partaken of. We had still to pass over a few 
 small streams before reaching Mai-Mai-Chin, and 
 these we crossed also over the ice. On reaching 
 that town we did not enter it, but skirted along 
 outside, passing near a curious burial-ground, sur- 
 rounded by a high wooden fence, through which 
 we could distinguish rows of huge coffins above the 
 earth ; some waiting for a lucky day to be foretold 
 by the soothsayers before being deposited in the 
 ground, and others for transport to the natal place 
 of the deceased ; the Chinese being, as a rule, very 
 anxious to be buried with their ancestors, and the 
 survivors of the deceased will pay large sums of 
 money for the purpose, as they fear being otherwise 
 haunted by the spirit of the departed. 
 
 Monkey, as usual, here mysteriously disappeared, 
 and we had some difficulty in inducing Cocoanut to 
 take us to the Russian consulate, which is situated 
 between the two towns of Mai-Mai-Chin and Urga, 
 and we could just discern the building in the 
 distance. It was evident that they had made some 
 arrangements, which we however determined to 
 upset, as we had looked forward so long to seeing 
 some human being we could converse with, and 
 perhaps hear some news from Europe At Pekin 
 we had been told that the Emperor Napoleon was 
 
168 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 dead, and although we did uot for a moment credit 
 such an oft-repeated canard, still we were anxious 
 to hear if there was any truth in it. So, disre- 
 garding the expostulations of Cocoanut, who 
 pointed to the mountain pass on the route to 
 Kiachta, we insisted on that unhappy Mongol's 
 submitting for once to be guided by us. 
 
 As we approached, we found the Russian con- 
 sulate consisted of a group of fine buildings. 
 Entering the yard, we were accosted by a ferocious- 
 looking Cossack, whose language, however, we 
 were unable to comprehend, which seemed rather 
 to astonish that individual. However, we managed, 
 through our usual method of talking, viz., by signs, 
 to get him to conduct us to the quarters of the 
 vice-consul, who received us with the greatest 
 kindness, and was as much pleased to see us as we 
 were to see him, as it was some time since he had 
 seen an European face. He told us he had not 
 been outside the house for three months, and when 
 we expressed surprise, he said, " I have been here 
 five years. I have not a single being except my 
 Cossacks to converse with. I know every inch of 
 the ground, and have no heart to move out." He 
 actually did not know, until we told him, that the 
 river Toll was frozen over, althoTigh it was but a 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 169 
 
 short distance from his house. We coiil i not help 
 sympathising with him, as we could imagine what 
 a life it must be, having to stay in such a place. 
 
 The Russian government keeps up this consulate 
 at some expense to further Russian influence, which 
 is daily on the increase in Mongolia. There is no 
 doubt but that the frontier will be, sooner or later, 
 advanced to Urga, and the Mongol mind is being 
 prepared for it. The actual Dessrt of Mongolia 
 finishes here, and Siberia may be said to commence, 
 as the whole features of the country change. The 
 sandy, flat plains give way to lofty mountains 
 covered with pine forests, and increasing signs of 
 cultivation. Russian influence, there can be little 
 doubt to the observing mind, will gradually absorb 
 the whole of Mongolia, and probably, in time, 
 China also, and it will be a very good thing too. 
 
 The consulate, as I have before said, is situated 
 between the two towns, and so protects all the 
 Russian commerce which passes this route. Mai- 
 Mai-Chin, the Chinese town, is built, with the 
 usual cunning of Celestials, in front of the Mongol 
 town of Kurin, and close to the route which the 
 caravans follow to Kiachta ; and thus all the trade 
 that would go to Kurin is absbrbed by it. And a 
 very flourishing trade it must be, as the whole 
 
170 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 arrangements for transporting goods to and from 
 the desert are made there. Kurin (or Urga, in 
 Russian,) is situated at the end of the valley, sur- 
 rounded on both east and west by lofty mountains, 
 the western being spurs of the Altais, and called 
 by the Mongols the Holy Mountains, on which no . 
 trees are allowed to be felled or game shot under 
 penalty of death. 
 
 A Chinese mandarin governor, also a Mongol 
 chieftain governor, resides here ; each to protect 
 the interest of his countrymen, as, although the 
 Mongol capital town, it is under the rule of China. 
 But it is the residence of a far greater man, in the 
 estimation of Mongols, than the Emperor of China, 
 viz., the Lama king, who is worshipped by them 
 as a species of deity ; and whose infallibility, like 
 that of the Pope, is not at all a subject of dis- 
 pute. It is estimated that two-thirds of the male 
 inhabitants of Mongolia are Lamas, who would 
 fight at the bidding of their king, who is conse- 
 quently very much distrusted at Pekin. The Lama 
 king is supposed to have existed since the com- 
 mencement of the world ; on which subject, how- 
 ever, Mongol traditions are very vague. He is 
 supposed never to die, but simply to quit the world, 
 assuming death, and leaving his spirit behind him, 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 171 
 
 which is inherited by another Lama, and so the 
 original king is supposed to live on for ever. But 
 about two years ago the Lama king migrated, and 
 up to the present time no one has been found 
 worthy enough to become the tabernacle of his 
 spirit. 
 
 The Mongol population is divided into clans, 
 each of which has its head or chieftain and various 
 petty chiefs. Once every three years, representa- 
 tives, chosen from each clan, assemble at Urga and 
 compete for prizes ; a distinction which, if gained, 
 is held for a year by the clan represented. The 
 sports held are wrestling, throwing the spear, 
 and riding ; in which latter accomplishment all 
 Mongols, who are trained to ride from earliest 
 infancy, excel. Few of the Mongols, even of their 
 Lamas, know how to read or write. Their language 
 is distinct from Tartar or Chinese. As they have 
 no literature they adopt that of the latter country. 
 The Lama king is, however, about the only indi- 
 vidual in Mongolia who possesses any collection of 
 books, and they are all Bhuddist works. 
 
 The Mongols, living as they do in the desert, 
 travelling here and there as the fancy takes them, 
 with their flocks and herds, feel no desire to read, 
 write, or send letters. It seems a pity that the 
 
172 A LAND JOURNEY TEOM 
 
 march of civilisation, with its accompanying vices, 
 should ever disturb these harmless simple chil- 
 dren of the desert ; but come it will. Russia is a 
 powerful and silently encroaching neighbour to 
 have, and China must well know this. 
 
 The elevation of Urga is 3500 feet over the sea 
 level. 
 
 The whole valley looked dreary and cold at the 
 time we were there. Possibly, in summer it would 
 look better ; but, as a residence, it must be most 
 undesirable. We found that the Russian govern- 
 ment kept up here, as a body-guard to the consul, 
 a troop of twenty Cossacks. 
 
 The vice-consul looked upon us as a godsend, 
 and I am sure we must have done ample justice to 
 the good cheer he set before us, having so long 
 lived on very scanty supplies. The breakfast and 
 dinner he gave us soon disappeared. I felt as if t 
 never could finish eating, and my travelling com- 
 panion was obliged to remonstrate with me when I 
 came to my tenth tumbler of tea, fearing I should 
 share the fate of the girl in ' Pickwick,' predicted 
 by Sam Weller. We asked for news, but found, 
 beyond the report of the Emperor's demise, nothing 
 new had reached this place. The consul spoke 
 French, and a little English. He wanted us to 
 
ASIA TO EUliOPE. 173 
 
 remain two or three days, and seemed very much 
 grieved when we told him our intention was to 
 proceed onwards that evening, as we dared not 
 now delay longer than possible in Mongolia, as 
 every day the weather was increasing in severity. 
 I am afraid he was half annoyed with us, and 
 thought we did not sufficiently sympathise with 
 his lonely condition. 
 
 I must confess that the temptation of jjassing 
 one night under shelter and getting a good night's 
 rest was very great ; and had we not been in a 
 hurry to get to some civilised town, where we 
 could end altogether with the discomforts of an 
 open air existence in an arctic temperature, we 
 should at all events have remained that time. 
 
 It seemed quite novel to us, eating in a room, 
 with a table-cloth on the table, aftei' our long rough- 
 ing in the desert. The rooms were so heated with 
 an enormous stove, whilst all the double windows 
 were hermetically sealed, that, after being accus- 
 tomed to live out in the open air, the atmosphere 
 was overpowering, and to prevent being suffocated 
 we had to inveut excuses to see after our camels 
 every now and then, so as to get a little fresh air. 
 We could easily account for the bad health the 
 consul complained of. To be stewed up in a 
 
174 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 room where the fresh air never penetrated and to 
 be deprived of taking exercise seemed to us, after 
 our experience, sufficient to cause sudden death. 
 
 The vice-consul told us that our trip was the 
 quickest ever made with camels. 
 
 He has to get all his supplies of provisions, with 
 the exception of mutton, from Kiachta. We sold 
 our ponies here, and felt a burden off our minds 
 at being quit of them, as we could not help feeling 
 for the poor animals, which were daily getting 
 thinner, and suffering from want of water and too 
 much exercise. And they were keeping us back, 
 as at times they declined to advance, and gave 
 our Lamas no end of trouble. 
 
 As before mentioned, our head Lama, Monkey, 
 left us when reaching Mai-Mai-Ohin. We did not 
 then know whether we should be able to find the 
 Eussian consulate, so said nothing to him, sup- 
 posing he would know that of course we should, 
 if possible, visit it. During our stay. Monkey, who 
 had seen his various friends and acquaintances, 
 pursued us, as he thought, on the road to Kiachta, 
 and only turned up at the consulate, having re- 
 traced his steps, at 7 p.m., looking very tired and 
 disgusted ; but we were rather glad, as it served 
 him right for leaving us so abruptly. 
 
ASIA TO ECJKOPE. 175 
 
 This accounted for the state of mind Cocoanut 
 had been in all day, as whenever I went out to see 
 him I found him sitting down in the yard in the 
 middle of the camels. He would get up and point 
 to the hills, saying, " Monkey." We could not at 
 all make out what he meant, so at last he resigned 
 himself to his fate and slept comfortably ibr the 
 remainder of the time, making one of the camels 
 his pillow. 
 
 At 8 p.M.^ it being a clear moonlight night, we 
 bade our kind Russian host adieu, and left him 
 again to his unenviable solitude, to be broken at 
 some future period by the next traveller who 
 might pass that way ; a bad lookout for him, I 
 am afraid. 
 
 After leaving the Russian consulate we pro- 
 ceeded a short distance down the valley, in the 
 same direction we had come from in the morning, 
 for about a mile, and then struck into a narrow 
 momitain path on the eastern side of the valley. 
 The cold was intense ; so in order to avoid being 
 frozen we had to walk at a brisk pace, which was 
 a matter of some inconvenience to me, as I was 
 suffering from a blister, "brought on by the very 
 rough walking we had been performing during the 
 last few days. 
 
176 A LAND JODENEY FEOM 
 
 To our great disgust, when we had proceeded 
 but a short distance in the ascent of the pass, our 
 Mongols, who had fasted all day, just like their 
 stupidity, halted at 10 p.m. to get their food. 
 Remonstrance, as usual, was of no avail ; so we 
 were done out of a night's travel, for which reason 
 alone we had declined the consul's invitation to 
 remain, and we might, after all, have accepted the 
 shelter he offered us, instead of having to remain 
 in the carts, which were becoming hateful to us, 
 and being nearly frozen hard therein. The moon 
 was shining brightly, and in the pure cold air the 
 whole surrounding scene was perfectly distinct to 
 us. As we stood on the brink of the ascent we 
 had made, some four thousand feet over the sea 
 level, looking down into the valley, we could 
 discover the two towns and the lofty Altais on the 
 opposite side. The river Toll, now hard frozen, 
 looked like a mirror as the moon's beams fell upon 
 it. In front, we looked upon a succession of lofty 
 mountains, covered with pine trees all laden with 
 frozen snow, which in the moonlight gave the 
 branches the appearance of solid crystal. There 
 was no wind blowing, and the deep silence was 
 only broken by the distant howl of the wolf. 
 We would have thought that no living creatures 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 177 
 
 resided in the towns at our feet, so dead and silent 
 were they. 
 
 I could not help thinking of the so-called City 
 of the Dead, outside the walls of Canton. But 
 our contemplations and reveries were but of short 
 duration, as, with the thermometer standing at 
 62° of frost, we had to decide between in- 
 dulging in sentimentality or being frozen. So 
 my friend, who looked upon my burst of enthu- 
 siasm as very appropriate, nevertheless practically 
 suggested adjourning into my cart, where we 
 managed, by a good deal of skill, to sit, one at 
 each end, and so, well wrapped up, commenced 
 a chat over the usual pipe. "We were lucky 
 that our tobacco lasted so well ; wine and spirits, 
 alas ! had disappeared, and of course the longing 
 for a little hot whisky-and-water was the greater 
 now we had none. Here, indeed, I would pathe- 
 tically warn every traveller to be always well 
 provided with strong liquors, if only to be taken as 
 the venerable Mrs. Gramp took them. 
 
 But of course after having, with an infinite 
 amount of trouble, settled ourselves, that is, having 
 arranged our legs so as to avoid reposing our feet in 
 each other's faces, and wrapped ourselves well up, 
 my infernal two- wheeled cart, which was supported 
 
178 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 in an upright position by a pole from the shaft, 
 commenced a downward descent on its own account, 
 which, as we could not move, was rather exciting, 
 not knowing whether we were goiug over the 
 precipice or not. But it was soon brought up by 
 the support giving way, and pitching forward, 
 sticking the shafts violently in the ground ; the 
 impetus sending my friend's head through the 
 window, which was blocked up with felt, and my 
 toes into the centre of his chest. The lamp was 
 extinguished, and neither of us could move ; and 
 it was only after vast efforts, brought on by the 
 desire to avoid suffocation,' that I managed to force 
 the door open, tumble out, and then extricate 
 my friend. Our tempers, which were bad at the • 
 moment, were not improved by seeing our two 
 Lamas coolly standing inside their tent, roaring 
 with laughter; but a heavy log of wood, which 
 knocked Cocoanut down and nearly sent him into 
 the fire, stopped their mirth, and induced them to 
 assist us in getting the cart in position again. It 
 now being 12 o'clock we determined to make a 
 move, and intimated the same to our Lamas, and, 
 taking the law into our own hands, commenced 
 striking the tent. So after a little grumbling, and 
 a few signs from Cocoanut, whose night it was to 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 179 
 
 sleep, intimating his desire for that blessing of 
 nature, which (as he had been enjoying it more or 
 less all day) we peremptorily declined acceding to, 
 we again commenced our march to Kiachta. But 
 somehow or other we seemed destined to encounter 
 obstacles that night, as we had not proceeded far 
 when down came my camel with a sudden flop, 
 and I, for the second time, was sent like a bundle 
 to the end of my cart. It took us no end of a time 
 to get the camel on his legs again ; I suppose that 
 animal merely preferring to stay where he was to 
 tugging my cart up a steep ascent, which he was 
 nearly unable to do. About 3 A.M., it being the 
 13 th of November, we commenced the ascent of 
 a high mountain pass. I should very much like to 
 be able to give the name of this pass, but it unfor- 
 tunately has none. Here we found that, after all, 
 Monkey's expedition after us, as he thought, had 
 resulted in some good, as that usually improvi- 
 dent and dense Mongol had actually, to our real 
 astonishment, had the forethought to order oxen, 
 to draw our carts over the pass, instead of our 
 having, as we fully expected, to wait while they 
 were being procured. 
 
 Three small strong-looking oxen having Ijeen 
 harnessed in the place of the camel into my 
 
 N 2 
 
180 A LAISTD JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 machine and two into my friend's, wbich was a 
 light one, away we went straight up a plain of 
 snow. Our drivers were women, clad in skins, and 
 very peculiar they looked, striding away over the 
 snow, whilst we sat in our carts. 
 
 Before we started my female driver opened my 
 door and said something to me, but what it meant 
 I do not know, unless, as I suspect, she wanted me 
 to get out and walk, which, however, I did not 
 feel inclined to do, on account of my foot being 
 very bad, for upon looking up the ascent we were 
 going I did not care about trying it, as it seemed 
 like a nearly perpendicular plain of snow, so I 
 preferred to trust to the oxen. I must say, when 
 we had gone half way, and the animals were 
 struggling up and then came to a sudden stop, I 
 could not help wondering, if the cart should com- 
 mence a retrograde movement, whatever would 
 become of its contents. 
 
 After a good deal of exertion and shouting — I 
 think, from the emphasis used, it must have been 
 sweEdring — we reached the summit, about five thou- 
 sand feet over the sea level, and looking down we 
 could see that to reach the valley below we had 
 to descend a similar snow plain, which really 
 did look rather dangerous. Here our Lamas inti- 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 181 
 
 mated that we were to walk ; but I could not, on 
 account of my foot, and besides, we had manatged 
 to get somewhat warm, and did not feel inclined to 
 turn out ; so we flatly refused, which caused our 
 Lamas to indicate, by violently shouting and by 
 signs, that they considered us most unreasonable. 
 At last away we went, and I must say that I 
 was precious glad when, after half an hour's 
 slipping and sliding, and fetching up, by turning 
 the cart half round, at each of which operations it 
 nearly capsized, we reached the valley safe and 
 sound and resumed our way with the camels. 
 
 What our Lamas paid for the use of the oxen 
 we could not find out, as that was all arranged in 
 our bargain at Kalgan ; but I believe a small- 
 quantity of brick tea was all. A lesson drivers 
 of all nations might profit by was, that our female 
 coachmen neither asked us for nor expected drink 
 money. 
 
 Proceeding onwards through the valley and still 
 descending, we found ourselves at 8 a.m. of the 
 13th entering a narrow defile, which brought us 
 into a long valley, and we continued until 1 p.m. 
 to pass through a series of them, with lofty pine- 
 clad mountains on each side, covered with snow. 
 We found here great difficulty in breathing, which 
 
182 A LAND JODENET FEOM 
 
 of course was attributable to the rarefied atmo- 
 sphere. We commenced shortly after one o'clock 
 ascending again, and as oxen were not procurable 
 our Lamas, who generally objected to walking, had 
 to dismount from their animals and harness them 
 to our carts, as the ascent was very steep, and it 
 was as much as the combined efforts of the camels 
 could do to draw our carts up. In the afternoon 
 the weather became most delightful, a hot sun and 
 no wind quite warmed us, although it was still 
 freezing hard. We continued to cross a series of 
 small passes very similar to those already tra- 
 versed ; the summit being a round table-land and 
 on each side a valley, surrounded by fantastic- 
 shaped mountains. At four o'clock we encamped 
 in a valley, sheltered from the wind, which was 
 again commencing. 
 
 After dinner, at about seven o'clock — the ther- 
 mometer was then standing at 12° below zero — I 
 was standing at the entrance to the tent, and 
 could plainly discover in the moonlight small frozen 
 crystals dropping, as I looked towards the moon. 
 It was a beautiful sight ; it looked like a shower 
 of fire, each little crystal being illuminated as 
 the moon shone on it. This lasted about an hour, 
 the drops being of course frozen dew. Bach 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 183 
 
 breath froze ; standing in the open air for a few 
 moments was sufficient to cover our beards and 
 moustaches with ice. The elevation we were 
 encamped on was 3900 feet. Our direction 
 was north by a httle west. This was our third 
 Sunday in the wilderness; and looking back 
 to the past, to the hardships and difficulties we 
 had passed through, and to our immunity from 
 sickness and danger, we could not help feeling 
 thankful that the journey up to that period 
 had been both speedy and pleasant. In this 
 part of the globe, ' during the winter months, 
 the sun rises about ,^0°, so that we never saw it 
 overhead. 
 
 The morning of the 14th, as usual, was bright 
 and clear, although intensely cold. Having sub- 
 stituted one of the baggage camels for my usual 
 one I managed to pass a quiet night, as it ■ had 
 not the same habit of suddenly sitting down. It 
 was so cold in the morning that our blankets and 
 coverings were all frozen — I suppose our breath 
 had got upon them ; so we were not sorry to walk 
 all day. The country continues to improve in 
 appearance, every sign of the desert being left 
 behind. We could imagine that in the summer 
 it would be very beautiful, as, besides the long 
 
184 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 grassy plains we passed over, all the surrounding 
 hills were densely wooded, and there were traces 
 of streams and rivulets, then dried up or frozen. 
 The valleys were very fine, and probahly in 
 summer would be more thickly populated than 
 they were when we passed through. 
 
 More signs of cultivation became apparent; 
 stacks of straw, pens full of sheep, well thatched 
 over ; but no traces apparent of the ground being 
 tilled. The natives were much inferior in phy- 
 sique and manners to those who dwell in the 
 desert. They looked more dirty, and seemed 
 poorer, and certainly lack the politeness and hos- 
 pitality we experienced from their brethren in the 
 desert. It is a curious fact, but it is always the 
 case, that the nearer civilisation or great towns are 
 approached so in like rate does the peasantry degen- 
 erate. It was seldom in the desert that we thought 
 our revolvers a protection, but here, I am sure, they 
 were a necessity, and should be shown and kept 
 handy, as some of the peasantry are a sort of half- 
 bred Chinese, and look very villainous and equal to 
 any atrocity. Before encamping, we had passed 
 over a series of passes. At the summit of each 
 we found an obon. 
 
 I remember on one occasion we were in advance 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 185 
 
 of our caravan, and took our seats on an obon 
 at the summit of -a pass, waiting for it to catch us 
 up. Being at that time perfectly ignorant as to 
 what it was, we looked upon it only as a curious 
 heap of stones, without thinking how it got 
 there. We commenced throwing the larger stones 
 down the hill. Our Lamas caught us at this act 
 of ignorant desecration on our part, and I shall 
 never forget their looks of horror. I think 
 if they had been able they would have killed 
 us, so angry and horrified were they, and we 
 could not then understand why.* It was a long 
 time before they commenced the descent, and then 
 not until their unfortunate camels were nearly 
 plucked bare of hair which they had pulled out, 
 as offerings. If anything had happened on the 
 way down of course it would have been ascribed 
 to our act. 
 
 The cold daily increased, and where there was 
 no snow we seldom found water. There is another 
 route, which avoids the stoep hills we had to pass 
 over, and water is said to be plentiful there ; but it 
 is three or four days longer. We preferred travel- 
 ling on small allowances of food and water to pro- 
 longing our journey, which had become excessively 
 tedious. We were out of the beat of Mongol vil- 
 
186 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 lages, which, however, was no loss. We saw but 
 very few yourts ; it was a blessing when we camped 
 at night to be alone, as the novelty of being mobbed 
 by a crowd of unwashed natives had entirely worn 
 off and we felt inclined to be rude and inhospitable. 
 The nearer we approached Kiachta, when we met 
 with any natives, the more we were liable to be 
 pestered for spirits and gunpowder, so whenever 
 we saw a yourt, instead of riding up to it, as we 
 did in the desert, we went out of our way to avoid 
 it, and took also good care to show no valuables. 
 Money or silver is very much coveted by the 
 natives in these parts, whilst it was uncared for in 
 the desert. 
 
 The scenery is magnificent, and if the journey 
 had not been so long and rough we should have 
 appreciated it more than we did ; but our failing 
 stock of provisions and want of water or liquid 
 of any kind made us hurry on to reach our desti- 
 nation. I am sure we pictured Kiachta as a sort 
 of paradise, to be reached after much trouble, and 
 looked forward to it as a haven of rest. We 
 found out afterwards that with good ponies we 
 could have ridden the whole way from Urga to 
 Kiachta in two days and nights. The Russian 
 post travels in that manner ; and on the way we 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 187 
 
 were passed by a courier, who accosted us in 
 Russian, and seemed mightily astonished that we 
 could not understand him, wondering what sort of 
 people we were ; and I fully believe that he led 
 our Larans to look upon us with suspicion. 
 
188 A LAND JOURNEy FROM 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 We cross the Eivers Boro and Cara — My Cart sticks in the latter 
 Stream — We ascend the Pass of Cara — The Hills covered with 
 Pine Forests — Delightful Sensation of passing through these 
 Forests aft§r the flat Plaiu — Oxen procured to make the Ascent — 
 The Top of the Pass marked by a huge Obon made of Wood and 
 Camel's hair — We descend into another Valley — A strange Herd 
 of Cattle — We meet Tartars on Horseback — Their Method of 
 capturing Ponies with the Xasso — A magnificent Prospect— My 
 Health benefited by my open-air Life notwithstanding Priva- 
 tions — The Country becomes more populous as we proceed — We 
 cross the Eiver Sha-Eagol — The Cold increases and the Camels 
 begin to fail - Oocoanut in his Sleep nearly brings the Caravan 
 to grief —We enter a Pine Forest — We reach a vast Plain, at the 
 End of which appear the Spires of Kiachta. 
 
 Oisr the evening of the 15th, we crossed a small 
 frozen stream, called by the natives the Boro, and 
 a few hours afterwards we forded the small river 
 Cara. The ice was broken, the stream running 
 very swiftly, but still there was ice enough to 
 enable our carts to pass in two feet of water. All 
 went well, the usual amount of shouting and 
 yelling keeping the camels going until we reached 
 the opposite bank, which was rather steep, when 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 189 
 
 of course my cart, which had been a nuisance 
 the whole way, being much too heavy, stuck, and 
 began to reel over, and all the efforts of the camel, 
 which cried like a child, were unavailing to extricate 
 it. I was comfortably wrapped up inside, but as 
 the cart gradually seemed to be going over I had 
 to jump out, minus my boots and coat, the ther- 
 mometer standing at several degrees below zero, 
 and aid the Lamas at the wheels. After some time, 
 by the continued efforts of two camels, myself, and 
 the Mongols, it was safely landed, but not without 
 causing me much anxiety, as it sank gradually 
 deeper in the water, and I fully expected every 
 moment to see it turn right over, in which case I 
 should have had my bedding and all I possessed 
 soaked — no joke, when there are no means of 
 drying or of getting others. When we started 
 again I got into the cart, but as the water had 
 touched the bottom it felt like an ice-house, every- 
 thing inside feeling terribly cold , so my night's 
 rest was done for, and not caring about sharing the 
 fate of the contents of the cart, I dressed and had 
 to walk all night, by which means I just managed 
 to avoid being frozen, for it was bitterly cold. The 
 sun rose at 8.30 a.m., and a beautiful morning it was, 
 and not quite so cold, the thermometer marking 8°. 
 
190 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 We were at the foot of the steep and rapid ascent 
 called the Pass of Cara, and as the various tints of 
 the morning sun canght the tops of the hills, and 
 shone on the dense pine forest with which they 
 were covered, making the branches laden with 
 snow of all colors, it was a grand sight. I believe 
 these woods are supposed to contain both wolves 
 and bears, and I should say it was probable, but 
 we saw none. Our Lamas, pointing to my rifle, 
 intimated to us by signs, which we now understood 
 as well as if carrying on a verbal conversation, to 
 have that weapon handy, so for some time I carried 
 it ; but finding we had quite enough to do to 
 ascend the slippery pass I soon deposited it again 
 inside my cart. The camels of course were here of 
 no use, so after a short delay we procured five 
 oxen, three for my cart and two for my friend's. 
 The pure bracing air and the glorious scenery we 
 were passing through took away all the fatigue of 
 the night before, and it was really delightful to us, 
 for the first time for so many days, to find ourselves 
 going through those splendid forests which we had 
 only seen at a distance. It was like meeting old 
 friends again, after the desolation of the desert, 
 and had it not been that we feared being frozen to 
 the trees I believe we shoiild have embraced them. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 191 
 
 The track we passed over consisted of rocks and 
 stones, covered with frozen snow, which made them 
 so shppery that it was with difficulty we could get 
 any footing at all, and were consequently con- 
 tinually coming to grief. It was a good thing I 
 had given up my rifle. It was a curious sight to 
 see the oxen toiling and struggling up the narrow 
 track, bumping the cart against trees and over 
 rocks ; and it was a curious sight to see the contents 
 of these carts after it was all over. Several times 
 we thought we never should get them to the summit, 
 and it certainly was a wonderful thing how our 
 female drivers managed to get the oxen on. Poor 
 Cocoanut, who never would walk when he could 
 ride, came to great grief half-way up, for in his 
 usual manner, when left to himself, he dozed away 
 on his camel's back. The unfortunate animal was 
 sliding about, finding it as difficult as we did to get 
 a footing, when, coming rather sharply against a 
 tree, he sent the sleeping Cocoanut off, who had a 
 tremendous fall, pitching on the top of his head. 
 Luckily his skull was a very tough one ; any ordi- 
 nary one must have been broken. It was impossible 
 for us to avoid roaring with laughter, it was so sud- 
 den and such a wakener for him. With many a 
 rueful rub of the head he joined in the laugh. I 
 
192 A LAND JOURNEY PROM 
 
 don't believe it hurt him much. Our progress being 
 very slow we walked on ahead, and reached the 
 summit of the pass. Having the usual table-hke 
 appearance, it reached about 5000 feet over the sea 
 level, and 1700 above the plain we had come from. 
 We found a huge obon entirely made of bits of 
 wood and camel's hair, without any stones at all. 
 
 As we had to wait for some time we gathered to- 
 gether all the old twigs we could find, breaking a 
 few branches off the nearest trees, and ht up a 
 large bonfire, which kept us warm until the caravan 
 arrived. The view at the summit is closed in by 
 the trees, but as soon as we commenced the descent 
 it broke upon us. We could see a long winding 
 valley running between two mountain ranges, 
 occasionally widening out into a plain. It seemed 
 interminable, especially as we had to go through 
 it. We had evidently crossed the lowest portion 
 of a range of mountains, extending away north and 
 south, and probably the only part where any 
 track exists. The descent into the valley below, 
 which is situated at a greater height than the plain 
 we had left, was soon accomplished, as the course 
 we had to pursue was really straight down, and just 
 short of being perpendicular ; so nolens volens, carts, 
 oxen, camels, and ourselves, walked, ran, slipped 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 193 
 
 and fell, but without any accident, reached a group 
 of yoxirts at the foot of the descent ; the time occu- 
 pied being altogether three hours. 
 
 There for the first time for some days we got 
 some capital milk, which we boiled with chocolate, 
 and felt quite happy again. If it is not out of 
 place, I would strongly advise every traveller to 
 carry with him a few tins of preserved chocolate 
 with milk and sugar ; I do not know what we 
 should have done without it. Even where only 
 the coldest water is to be got it mixes with it, 
 and many a time it formed the only sustenance we 
 got for twelve or eighteen hours. 
 
 As we were going to start again my cart was 
 found to be in a rather shaky condition; in fact, 
 looked very much like going to pieces. So we had 
 to tie it up with ropes and substitute a new axle 
 which we carried with us ; a labour of some diffi- 
 culty and time, but still preferable to having to 
 abandon my only shelter at night. 
 
 We noticed some very fine oxen, of a very 
 curious breed. They were small in appearance, 
 very strong and well made, with a long fringe of 
 hair on both sides, hanging down below the knees. 
 We only saw them in that valley, and never before 
 or afterwards, so that they must be peculiar to that 
 
194 A LAJSTD JOUSNEY PEOM 
 
 spot. We passed plenty of sheep and large flocks 
 of ponies, mostly in a wild condition. As we got 
 down the valley yourts became more plentiful, but 
 poor in appearance, although there were signs of a 
 little cultivation, and plenty of vegetation ; but the 
 people became more degenerate. Then we came 
 across lots of Tartars on horseback, who would 
 ride up to us and inspect us and go off laughing ; 
 however, it was of no use for us to resent it, as we 
 should have soon been overpowered. We saw a 
 rather interesting incident in the afternoon, which 
 amused us very much. A Tartar rode after a pony 
 and threw a noose over its head ; and although 
 the animal was nearly strangled, it was for a short 
 time very doubtful whether the Tartar would not 
 be lugged out of his saddle. It was only by the 
 wonderful horsemanship that they nearly all are 
 masters of, that he managed to keep his seat, and 
 reduced the pony to a comparatively tame con- 
 dition. At about 4 P.M., still proceeding down this 
 long winding valley, we passed a high range of 
 mountains on the right— the name I have forgotten 
 — from the other side of which springs a branch of 
 the river A moor. We could not find a spot to 
 encamp free from snow, so we had to pitch our 
 tent where it was about a foot deep, and consequently 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 195 
 
 very unpleasant to sit on and equally difficult to get 
 up a fire. However, here we had plenty of wood, 
 having now dispensed with the argolots. We halted at 
 5 P.M., and for the first time for some days managed, 
 by breaking a hole through the ice on a small river 
 by whose borders we had encamped, to get a supply 
 of really pure water, as all the other streams we had 
 passed were either too hard frozen or, if not, their 
 water was undrinkable. We considered our journey 
 now nearly at an end, and although it was miserably 
 cold, and our usual enemy, the wind, blew as hard 
 as possible, we felt quite cheerful. 
 
 I could not help thinking — after a rather frugal 
 supper, consisting mostly of a very hard tongue, 
 which we had several times thought of throw- 
 ing away, and now thanked our stars that 
 we had not done so — that although I should be 
 very glad when the journey to Kiachta was com- 
 pleted, still that I had derived many benefits from 
 it. When I started from Pekin I was in very poor 
 health, having suffered much from the heat of the 
 Chinese climate. But I felt at this moment as 
 strong and healthy as a man could wish to be. 
 After all it was a life of the most perfect freedom ; 
 nothing to trouble one's mind about ; no money 
 difficulties, no bills to pay; doing as we liked, 
 
 2 
 
196 A LAND JOUENET FEOM 
 
 wandering where we would, nobody to question us, 
 and no etiquette to follow as a standard of good 
 manners. There certainly was, after all, taking 
 hardships and discomforts into consideration, a 
 great charm in such a life for a short period ; and 
 having nearly done it, it was something to look 
 back to and remember during the remainder of 
 one's existence. 
 
 What I most regret is the impossibility of giving 
 an entire description of the tents, modes of exist- 
 ence of the inhabitants, and country we passed 
 through, and, indeed, that I could never half do 
 justice to the journey — the events and experiences 
 we had gone through, and which turned out so dif- 
 ferent to what we had imagined. But few have 
 passed through the tract of country, which is 
 almost unknown, and scarcely any account has 
 been given of the habits and customs of the people 
 who inhabit it. 
 
 Before starting from China we had read an 
 account of the journey through the desert, and 
 were very much edified by the conversations that 
 the writer had enjoyed with various natives, as he 
 gracefully reclined at the entrance of their yourts ; 
 but as we found a good deal of romance in his 
 accounts, and as moreover none of the party could 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 197 
 
 speak Mongol, we did not derive much benefit 
 from his information. 
 
 Before retiring to rest, that is, putting out my 
 lamp and wrapping up, and then wedging myself 
 between two leathern bags, on account of there 
 being no room to stretch my legs straight out 
 (although I am not a tall man) I used to get the 
 cramp so awfully that, forgetting the roof of my 
 cart, I would spring up and knock my head 
 severely against the top. It had become rather 
 warmer, and the snow was rapidly covering every- 
 thing, but thank goodness the wind had died 
 away. It felt really^ with the thermometer at 12°, 
 quite hot. As a proof of what the temperature 
 had been all the way since leaving Kalgan, some 
 fresh beef lasted us twenty days, and was then 
 quite good ; and although we had been some days 
 without any stimulants the air was so delicious 
 and renovating that we hardly missed them. We 
 had made forty miles during the day. 
 
 We started again in good time, a little before 
 11 A.M., and had some difficulty in getting the 
 Lamas under way. The nearer our destination 
 appeared to be, the more trouble we had to get 
 these obstinate guides on, and they became un- 
 pleasant in their behaviour. I think they rather 
 
198 A LAND JOUBNEY FROM 
 
 liked to spin the journey out, trusting to our 
 generosity to pay tbem the first part of the agree- 
 ment, although we used to endeavour to impress 
 them to the contrary. Turning out early from my 
 cart on the morning of the 16th, I found it was 
 a cloudy morning, but not so cold, the thermometer 
 marking 14°. We soon commenced the ascent of 
 an interminable pass, and as the roads were partly 
 covered with fresh-fallen snow and deep sand it 
 was very difficult to get the carts on at all. Mine, 
 moreover, required two camels, as unfortunately 
 one of the wheels was out of order. I could not 
 help pitying these poor, patient animals, especially 
 one of mine, a pure white one, which had taken 
 me so long and so well ; it looked at me as it 
 laboured on so plaintively,- as much as to say, "I 
 am doing all I can." I marched at his side 
 with my Lama's whip — one camel leading, and 
 the other on the opposite side, — but I only 
 made pretence to use it; I really could not 
 beat the poor animal. But we began to be very 
 much afraid of the camels' breaking down, and our 
 having to leave our carts and baggage behind ; or, 
 worse still, be delayed perhaps several days, as the 
 country here becomes very mountainous. How- 
 ever, at 10 A.M. we got over the pass and reached 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 199 
 
 some yourts, where my wheel had to he repaired, 
 as it was impossible to go on as it was. So we took 
 the opportunity of getting some milk, and were 
 pestered for money, tobacco, in fact anything we 
 had or were supposed to have. We found we 
 were now getting into a more populated part of 
 the country,, as we could discover several groups 
 of yourts, which became more plentiful as we 
 proceeded onwards, bearing the appearance of 
 small farms. The dogs were here a great nuisance, 
 every yourt, , possessing one ; and we had to be 
 continually on the alert, as they are savage brutes 
 and do not at all understand persuasion, unless it 
 be physical. 
 
 At 3 P.M. a violent snowstorm came on, and 
 with it a bitter north-east wind, which chilled us 
 to the very backbone, although the thermometer 
 only stood at 16°. "We never, even in the desert, 
 felt the cold so. much as we did that afternoon, 
 although in my cart the thermometer was as high 
 as 20°. I felt regularly miserable ; I had to shut 
 the door and block up the window with pillows, 
 &c., which made it quite dark, and so lie down 
 and be tumbled about. We could not breast the 
 storm, as the sleet cut into our faces. Our poor 
 Lamas certainly behaved well under these trying 
 
200 A LAND JOUENET FEOM 
 
 circumstances ; Cocoanut singing one eternal ditty, 
 which he regularly chanted every afternoon for 
 about an hour, in which he was generally joined by 
 Monkey. It was a rude barbaric air, and I often 
 fancied was a sort of hymn ; but we got so tired 
 of it that whenever they commenced we used to 
 walk ahead so as to get out of hearing. We gene- 
 rally found when these terrible snows fell down 
 that the thermometer would rise a little but that 
 the cold was much greater to feeling. We con- 
 sidered this day's work the hardest we had gone 
 through, and certainly the most disagreeable. The 
 route from Kalgan to Urga, although uninteresting, 
 as far as scenery goes, compared with that from 
 Urga to Kiachta, is much more enjoyable. Pro- 
 bably we felt it to be so because the journey was 
 becoming wearisome ; however, we looked forward 
 to reaching Kiachta the next night; but, as the 
 sequel shows, Vhomme propose et Dieu dispose was 
 a motto very applicable to our case. 
 
 We crossed over the River Sha-Ragol, or Yellow 
 River, so called from the colour of its water, at 
 9 A.M. Of course it was frozen. Our dinner was 
 very limited that evening, as although we fully 
 expected to end our journey next day still we did 
 not like, in case of accident, to finish our stock of 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 201 
 
 provisions, which was reduced to a bone with a 
 small quantity of mutton on it. So not being in 
 a mood to continue starving, and rather greedily 
 thinking of Russian hospitality awaiting us, we 
 decided to rout the Lamas up early, and at 9 a.m., 
 after a tremendous wrangle, we proceeded onwards, 
 I shall never forget the cold. Our guides were 
 very surly, and so we had to look after the camels 
 ourselves, and it was becoming painfully evident 
 that they were getting used up. We placed the 
 baggage on our two camels^ and changed two of 
 the baggage camels with them, and so managed to 
 get on better ; but it seemed very slow progress 
 to us, who were all impatience to go ahead. 
 Towards morning, we were proceeding over a 
 plain, and Cocoanut, again sleeping on his camel, 
 very nearly brought himself and the whole caravan 
 to grief. Monkey had gone off to see some neigh- 
 bouring yourt and bestow his blessing for whatever 
 he could get in return in the way of food ; and 
 so Cocoanut was left to lead the caravan on. We 
 walked alongside for some time, giving him a shove 
 with a stick whenever he closed his eyes, to waken 
 him up again. It being too cold to loiter, and think- 
 ing he had finished his sleep, we walked on. We had 
 not gone very far when, on turning round, we saw 
 
202 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 Cocoanut was again fast asleep and the whole 
 caravan was proceeding towards a deep pit, to- 
 wards which the camels were being tempted hy 
 the appearance of some grass. Already it seemed 
 about to be engulfed; Away we bolted, and came 
 Tip just as the carts were on the point of rolling 
 over, and taking the whole caravan, baggage and 
 all, to the bottom. 
 
 When we awoke Cocoanut with a stone on the 
 top of his skull he was nearly dead with fright, 
 and it required some skill to get the leading camel 
 out of the dilemma. We punished him by pelting 
 him with small stones — ^an infliction he disliked 
 especially ; to avoid it he actually dismounted and 
 had to walk, which he hated nearly as much. 
 Leaving the plain, we had a long steep ascent to 
 pass over, and we then entered into a dense pine 
 wood. The trees were splendid specimens of pine ; 
 I have never seen finer. The ground was covered 
 with fresh-fallen snow, about a foot deep ; we 
 were very glad it was the case, as our journey 
 onwards from Kiachta we hoped to make in 
 sledges. 
 
 We continued still in these woods for fifteen 
 miles ; each break we eagerly looked ahead, expect- 
 ing to see some signs of Kiachta ; . but without 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 203 
 
 success. The wood seemed as if it would never 
 end, but still it was delightful to wander under 
 those lofty trees, with a bright sun shining and 
 entirely sheltered from the wind. We were also 
 gradually descending, so knew that we must soon 
 reach a plain. 
 
 That wretched Cocoanut, whose sleeping pro- 
 pensities seemed doomed to annoy us, especially at 
 this stage of our journey, in the afternoon again 
 brought us to a halt, he having allowed his camel, 
 which was attached to my cart, to take one side of 
 a tree and the cart the other, by which blunder 
 the harness was all smashed and one side of the 
 conveyance stove in. How we did anathematise 
 him, and how provokingly he did grin ! And we 
 afterwards had good reason to believe that if not 
 done on purpose hj him. Monkey, for his own 
 reasons, had left him in charge. 
 
 Vainly did we endeavour to infuse some warmth 
 into our frozen fingers. Mine began to cause me 
 some uneasiness, as they were quite white and 
 dead up to the first joint and"! could not feel 
 anything with them. At four o'clock we left the 
 woods and reached an extensive plain, which 
 looked about eight or nine miles across. We could 
 see at the distance a range of hills, and, to our 
 
204 A LAlSfD JOURNEY PROM 
 
 intense joy, two white spires, which told lis that 
 at last Kiachta was in sight. 
 
 Inciting our Lamas to speed, which they, to our 
 indignation, gave no response to, we proceeded in 
 what seemed in our opinion to be a wrong direc- 
 tion, and which proved to be the case. As we 
 now fully expected to sleep in Kiachta that night 
 a little embellishment was naturally considered 
 necessary, so we mounted into our carts to effect 
 it. My looking-glass, which was freezing hard, 
 only gave me the dim reflection of what seemed a 
 very rough and weather-beaten individual. I 
 regret to say our ablutions had been very few 
 and far between, and our raiment, which had 
 endured all kinds of weather, looked anything 
 but inviting. My top-boots, lined with sheep- 
 skin, for want of blacking, certainly did look 
 rather bad. The hard part of the undertaking, 
 I mean substituting another coat for the one I had 
 on, I can scarcely describe. As I have before 
 stated, I could never turn in my cart, so I had to 
 sit on my haunches, with my head bent forwards, 
 and so get out of my clothes. Now imagine, good 
 reader, being placed in this position, with one's 
 fingers frost-bitten, not being able to feel a single 
 thing. What a time it did take mo to put on my 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 205 
 
 best coat ! And now all the labour was thrown 
 away after all. Certainly, after twenty-two days' 
 wandering, and endeavouring as much as I could 
 to make myself decent, the result was anything 
 but satisfactory; but I did at last wriggle into 
 another coat, and on getting out of my cart 
 looked so spruce that my friend hardly knew 
 me. But what a couple of ruflSans the civilised 
 world would have called us ! To our intense 
 annoyance, we discovered that Monkey had deter- 
 mined we should not reach Kiachta that night, 
 and it was evident by what we could make out 
 that he was considering the necessity of taking 
 us first to our destination, and then having to 
 return again out of the town with the camels and 
 carts to encamp, which trouble he did not care 
 about entailing on himself. Yainly did we expos- 
 tulate, scold, and shake our heads, saying, Lang 
 mongojoss (No money for you). He was obstinate 
 and determined. It was most aggravating, as 
 we were scarcely two miles from the town. 
 
 Threats were of no avail ; so what does Monkey 
 do ? He suddenly declared he had taken the wrong 
 road, which was very evident, when we found a 
 small river stopped our further progress. In order 
 to demonstrate that we could not pass over he 
 
206 A LAND JOURKET PEOM 
 
 made one of the camels stick its leg through a hole 
 in the ice. Although we perfectly saw through 
 this ruse, we were quite helpless ; so tents were 
 pitched, and we, in sight of Kiachta, felt awfully 
 savage. However, our friends the Lamas never 
 knew how much they lost by this move. The 
 money we intended giving them for themselves 
 we reduced considerably. 
 
 It was some time before we felt even up to 
 cooking our soup, my friend, who always cooked 
 the dinner, for a long time being too angry to 
 undertake that office ; and it was only when driven 
 by the pangs of hunger that we did make our 
 last mess ; and it was not a bad one, considering 
 the limited quantity of materials. 
 
 After dinner we felt more amiable, and inclined 
 to take the merits of our Lamas into consideration 
 verms their demerits ; and we agreed unanimously 
 that they had behaved during the first part of the 
 journey remarkably well, but had fallen off very 
 much during the latter portion. They had had 
 hardly any sleep since we started, except what 
 they got when on their camels; so we decided, 
 taking all things into consideration, to fee them 
 well, but not- so well as we had intended. This 
 resolution we arrived at more easily by reason of 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 207 
 
 Monkey's hostile behaviour during the evening 
 and his obstinate refusal to move on. 
 
 The cold on the border of this little river was 
 frightful. I am sure, with the exception of the 
 one hole Monkey had found, it was frozen to the 
 bottom. "We passed over safely later on. The 
 mercury on my looking-glass was frozen into 
 small beads, and large stalactites hung from the 
 roof of my cart. As I entered my daily journal 
 the thermometer inside my cart stood at 20° below 
 zero, or 52° of frost, and it was as much as I 
 could do to hold the pencil at all in the benumbed 
 state of my fingers. Every now and then my 
 friend would shout out, " How's the thermometer ?" 
 and I invariably found it lower. It was a fore- 
 taste of Siberia, and we rather expected to be 
 frozen, for all the wraps we then possessed were 
 not enough to keep out the cold. Luckily there 
 was no wind. We could not help thinking how 
 warm we might have been in Kiachta, and it cer- 
 tainly did not tend to diminish our annoyance at 
 the unnecessary delay. 
 
 As may be imagined, we felt a great deal too 
 restless and excited to get much sleep that night, 
 and it was also too cold to do so, as it actually 
 created pain by its intensity ; so we were very glad 
 
208 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 when at six o'clock, it still being dark, on the 
 morning of the 18th, we again resumed our 
 journey, which was then so soon to finish. We 
 passed over the small stream without any difficulty 
 and marched on with a bitter wind blowing ; our 
 noses and fingers were frozen, and we suffered for 
 a long time afterwards from the effects of that 
 morning's cold. The thermometer indicated 40° 
 below zero, or 72° of frost, and we were not 
 provided with the necessary fur coats to keep 
 out such cold, so it was a wonder we did manage 
 to stand it all. After a roundabout way to avoid 
 recrossing the small stream which winds about 
 through the plain, at eight o'clock we reached the 
 Chinese town, which is situated similarly to that 
 we passed before reaching Urga, and is also called 
 Mai-Mai-Oliin. Here we missed that perverse 
 Monkey, and found he had ridden off without 
 consulting us at all, and instructed Oocoanut to 
 wait at the entrance for him. Now this was too 
 bad, as having to stand still even for a short 
 period was dangerous, and that too within a short 
 distance of the Russian town of Kiachta. It 
 seemed as if just at the last part of our journey 
 everything consj)ired against us to keep us back. 
 For some time, Oocoanut, who became suddenly 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 209 
 
 deaf, refused to move, and we could not go alone, 
 as we did not know the way nor did we care to 
 leave our baggage behind. Vainly did we shout 
 out Jaho ! (Go on !) for all the reply we got from 
 Cocoanut was, pointing to the distance, " Monkey." 
 How we did hate Monkey ! At last however it 
 was necessary to take some determined steps, as we 
 were now surrounded by a mob of Mongols and 
 Chinese, who confused us with the questions they 
 asked, we not understanding one word. We men- 
 tioned the name of the Russian gentleman to whom 
 we had letters of introduction, but nobody seemed 
 to know or understand what we wanted. At last, 
 losing all patience, we precipitated Cocoanut from 
 his camel, and, taking the leading-string of the 
 caravan, proceeded with it, followed by him, down 
 the principal street of Mai-Mai-Chin. Cocoanut 
 became obstreperous, and we had to threaten him 
 several tiroes with our revolvers — weapons he 
 had a great respect for — before he gave in. We 
 found out afterwards that as he had never been 
 there he was afraid of missing Monkey and being 
 left to his own devices, not knowing where we 
 should go to, or if Monkey would be able to find 
 us out. 
 
 We marched along a wide street, passing the 
 
 p 
 
210 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 Chinese governor's house and a very handsome 
 temple, noticing some very fine-looking shops on 
 our way, and at last emerged from the Chinese 
 town and found ourselves in a sort of neutral piece 
 of ground, beyond which is situated the wooden 
 town of Kiachta, and at the entrance a very 
 handsome church and the residence of the com- 
 missaire imperiale. 
 
 Here we found a few half-civilised looking 
 beings, who informed us where the house was we 
 were bound to. The respectable portion of the 
 community was evidently kept indoors by the 
 cold, and very wisely too. 
 
 We soon reached the residence of M. 
 
 and presented our letters of introduction. Our 
 appearance was anything but presentable, but 
 must have been impressive ; nevertheless, contrary 
 to our expectations, for we only calculated upon 
 being shown where we could obtain lodgings, we 
 were received with a most hearty welcome ; a room 
 was placed at our disposal, and we were told to 
 make ourselves comfortable and at home. 
 
 There are no people like the Eussians for kind- 
 ness and hospitality. We had not the slightest 
 claim, neither had we the slightest expectation, of 
 being so heartily received. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 2U 
 
 It may be imagined how glad we were at last to 
 find ourselves safe and sound under shelter again 
 and in the midst of civilised human beings like 
 ourselves. For a time, while we were unloading 
 our carts and camels, we could not help thinking, 
 as we watched the contents gradually being taken 
 out, how long we had inhabited those uncomfortable 
 conveyances, and through what privations and 
 hardships we had passed ; and a feeling akin to 
 wonder came over us that we had been able to 
 do the journey so well and without being visited 
 by sickness. 
 
 How long it had seemed when we were at it ! ^ 
 And now it was all over and we had the pleasure 
 of finding ourselves safe, the difficulties were nearly 
 forgotten, and it appeared as if only a short time 
 ago we were at Kalgan. 
 
 Monkey turned up, of course, when all the work 
 of discharging out cargo was done, but we were in 
 good spirits, so did not scold him as we had 
 intended to do, when we were exposed to the 
 cold. What a quantity of things came out of 
 our carts and was unpacked from our camels! 
 When they were in the room we could hardly 
 turn. We took a farewell look into what had 
 been our only shelter for so long a time, and 
 
 p 2 
 
212 A LAND JOQENEY FROM 
 
 very very thankful we were to be quit of tbem for 
 ever. 
 
 We had made the journey in one day over our 
 contract time, twenty-four days, but did not insist 
 on the fulfilment of the terms. "We presented each 
 Lama with a lump of sycee worth about £1 5s. 
 each lump, which delighted them highly. They 
 little knew that we had intended giving them more 
 had they behaved better during the latter part of 
 the journey. We also presented them with any 
 remnant of stores we had, and our sheep-skin 
 coats, which were of no use, being nearly worn 
 out, and all odds and ends we did not want, and 
 wished them good-bye. Shaking hands with them, 
 which they considered as a sort of a blessing, we 
 bade our unwashed Mongols adieu without much 
 regret. 
 
 How delighted we were to get a wash and to 
 change our raiment, and then to sit down before a 
 well-stocked table and eat our fill ! The great 
 drawback we agreed was, that our kind host 
 could only speak or understand his own language ; 
 but a young lady living with the family ap- 
 peared later on and acted as interpreter, speaking 
 French. 
 
 A few remarks will finish the first part of our 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 213 
 
 journey, which I have so feebly endeavoured to 
 narrate. 
 
 I am sure from what I saw that the autumn and 
 winter seasons are the right ones for travelling 
 across Mongolia. There is no fear of rain, which 
 in summer is abundant and renders travelling 
 difHcult. The small rivers we passed over at the 
 latter part of the journey were all frozen, and so 
 did not raise that hindrance to our progress which 
 in other seasons they would have done. Another 
 great reason for preferring the winter months 
 is, that the camels are in good travelling order, 
 which they are not in summer. Of course the 
 hardships from cold and lack of water are great, 
 but still as we were able to endure them others 
 could do so likewise ; and after all, cold is preferable 
 to intense heat, as it is possible to keep the body 
 warm through exercise. 
 
 I would strongly advise any one who may wish 
 to travel over this route to provide himself with a 
 good light cart, although the having it made may 
 entail a loss of a few days at Kalgan, as it is of the 
 greatest importance to be provided with a shelter 
 as comfortable as possible to last some twenty to 
 thirty days. Mine, which was badly constructed, 
 being much too heavy, and only five feet six inches 
 
214 A LAND JOUBNBY FEOM 
 
 long and about two feet and a balf wide, was an 
 aggravation of misery to me the whole way. 
 
 Baggage should be as small as possible. It is not 
 necessary to carry much clothes, a fair supply of 
 flannel shirts, &c., and a few pairs of good thick 
 trousers, a coat or two, and some strong boots and 
 fur gloves, would be enough, as all the necessary 
 outfit for Siberia is to be procured either at Kiachta 
 or Irkoutsk. Plenty of stores and wine, however, 
 is very necessary. We found the preserved choco- 
 late in tins most useful. 
 
 For money purposes, six or seven dollars or 
 broken silver and a few bricks of tea are quite 
 sufficient, the rest being in letters of exchange on 
 merchants in Kiachta. 
 
 There is not much of interest in this part of the 
 journey, but it opens out the mind and gives the 
 traveller a knowledge of quite a new state of exist- 
 ence. A. wandering life, with a sense of perfect 
 freedom, for a limited time, also bears its own 
 reward. 
 
 I certainly should not care to make the journey 
 again ; but I consider to the already experienced 
 traveller, who wishes to see the world and gather 
 wisdom from so doing, and who is tired of the 
 hackneyed tourist routes of Europe, and is willing 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 215 
 
 to put up with every species of hardship and 
 not afraid to face danger and rough it in the 
 true acceptation of the word, this is a most recom- 
 mendable journey. 
 
 There are three routes marked on my map from 
 Kalgan to TJrga : the one usually travelled over 
 by caravans ; another, which we came by, rather 
 shorter ; and one — the longest — reserved by the 
 Chinese government for post couriers. This latter 
 route skirts the desert, and consequently runs where 
 more vegetation exists. The post service, which 
 is uncertain, is performed by Chinese couriers on 
 ponies — a journey which they make very much at 
 ^their leisure. Ponies are only obtainable at the 
 outskirts of the desert for this service. 
 
 The inhabitants of Mongolia are divided into 
 clans, but as they have no method of obtaining a - 
 census their number is unknown. 
 
 Few of them, even of their Lamas, know how 
 to read or write. Their language is akin to that 
 spoken by the Tartars and distinct from Chinese ; 
 but the character used is Chinese, they having no 
 letters or literature of their own. They live in 
 the desert, and travel about as fancy suits them 
 with their flocks and herds. 
 
 It seems a pity that the march of civilisation 
 
216 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 with its accompanying vices should disturb the 
 Hfe of these primitive children of the desert, and 
 destroy their simplicity and happy ignorance ; but 
 come it will ; in fact it is fast intruding under the 
 auspices of Russia — a powerful and silently en- 
 croaching neighbour. China must now feel this ; 
 that is to say, if any thought ever occupies the minds 
 of the ignorant, barbaric, self-conceited mandarins 
 at the court of Pekin. Russia, with her vast 
 influence, herself hardly yet entirely civilised, 
 stretches out her arms on all sides, and will swallow 
 up China itself in her embrace at some not very far 
 distant period ; and it would be a matter of con- 
 gratulation if the present Chinese government, 
 with its cruelties, ignorance, vice, and hatred of 
 foreigners, were to become a thing of the past and 
 ' be swept from off the face of the earth. 
 
 Mongolia Proper is . divided into two great 
 divisions : North and South. The first comprises 
 four provinces, the second eight or ten. Its 
 resources are speculative, as so .little is known 
 about the country. 
 
 Our journey from Kalgan to Kiachta was con- 
 sidered by natives as one of the quickest ever 
 accomplished with camels, and it also excited some 
 astonishment at the freedom from danger and 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 217 
 
 sickness we had experienced, considering the period 
 of the year. 
 
 The next portion of our journey will be perhaps 
 more interesting, but certainly not so novel and 
 strange as that I have endeavoured so imperfectly 
 to relate. 
 
218 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 CHAPTER YII. 
 
 KiacMa — The Lioxury of a Eussian Bath after oiar Travels — We 
 visit the Commissaire Imperiale — Method of conducting the 
 Postal EoTites— Method of warming a Eussian Hoiise— Festivals 
 of the Jour de Nom— Curiosities of Costume inEussia — We meet 
 an Englishman — A Eussian Dinner — The Ladies' Eoom — Eussia 
 the great Cigarette Country — The Eiohes of the Kiachta Merchants 
 — The Magniflcence of the Greek Church — The Chinese Town of 
 Mai-Mai-Chin adjoining Kiachta— Signs of its Lnportance and 
 Wealth — The Yamun of the Chinese Governor — We experience 
 the Advent of Civilisation by sending a TelegTam to London — An 
 English Dinner at last — A Eussian Gentleman agrees to join us 
 in a Tarantass on our Journey to Irkoiitsk — Hospitality of the 
 Eussians — Their Acquaintance with English Authors — The Bread- 
 throwing Custom — A Description of the Town of Kiachta — Ex- 
 penses of our Outiit and Postal Blanks for our future Journey — 
 We start in our Tarantass, and arrive at Auskiaohta, where our 
 Eussian travelling Companion, Col. B , joins us — We proceed 
 
 , onward to Korai — Tremendous Pa'ce of our Tarantass downhill. 
 
 What a delight it was to find ourselves once more 
 amongst people we could converse with in French 
 and Grerman, and find ourselves safely housed and 
 relieved from all anxiety with respect to our dinner, 
 &c. ! Luckily the bath-room, with which every 
 Russian house is supplied, was already heated — it 
 takes generally twenty-four hours to get up the 
 
ROUTK THROUGH SIHKRIA IROM KIACII'IA TO PKRM 
 
 l.Diidoii: Piililisliod by S;uii(isoii l.ou.Soiut M:u-.stoii,l871. 
 
ROUTE THROUGH SIBERIA EROM KLXCRTA TO PER^t 
 
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ASIA TO EUROPE. 219 
 
 necessary amount of heat — and to this part of the 
 establishment we soon found our way, as it may 
 be imagined, with great delight, for in the desert 
 I am afraid we had nearly forgotten that there 
 was such a custom as washing. 
 
 We had to walk across a yard, and we soon 
 experienced the difference between the cold and 
 heat of the bath-room. It was the first time we 
 had ever been into a Eussian bath, and the effect 
 upon us, especially upon my friend, was some- 
 thing astonishing and unpleasant at first. But I 
 think the bath deserves a description. 
 
 It stood alone in the centre of a yard, in a 
 small wooden biiilding. Preceded by a servant, 
 armed with small rods, which looked like branches 
 with dead leaves, that in the heat gave a 
 fragrance to the building, we entered into an 
 outside room, where we took off our clothes. 
 We then walked into a room which looked like 
 a washing place ; having on one side a huge sort 
 of boiler, and steps all round. Our attendant 
 made signs to us to ascend these steps, which 
 we did slowly, as the higher we mounted the 
 hotter it got. Panting, hardly able to breathe, we 
 reclined on the top step, when our attendant com- 
 menced throwing water on the outside of the 
 
'220 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 furnace. "We saw directly columns of steam 
 coming towards us, which no sooner did we feel 
 than with a yell down the steps we rolled. It was 
 more than we could stand. My friend had to be 
 taken into an ante-room in a fainting condition 
 and I staggered out also. However, after a time 
 a good soaping and washing and scrubbing with 
 cocoa-nut fibre revived us, and we left the bath- 
 room weaker but cleaner, but not at all agreeably 
 impressed with it. Strange, however, we did not 
 feel the cold, which was then most intense ; much 
 more so than before. 
 
 Having now made ourselves somewhat respect- 
 able, and well wrapped up in fur coats, kindly 
 lent to us by our host, we proceeded in a sort 
 of char a bancs, drawn by a splendid little horse at 
 a rapid pace, to Mr. PfaflSus, the commissaire im- 
 periale, by whom we were most kindly received. 
 TVe handed him our passports and inquired about 
 procuring the necessary postal blanks to take us 
 to Ekaterinburg, and he gave us all the necessary 
 information. Monsieur Pfaffius first vised our 
 passports, and we then sent them to the com- 
 missaire de police, from whom we then received 
 the postal blanks. For travelling through Siberia 
 as far as Ekaterinburg the whole postal route is 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 221 
 
 under government. The different stations are 
 farmed out to speculators, some taking ten or a 
 dozen, and letting them again to others ; but 
 government exercises authority over them, and 
 when not efficiently kept at once withdraws the 
 contracts and relets them to others. 
 
 The great thing, if possible, is to procure a 
 pass with two stamps, which however is only 
 given to government couriers ; these take pre- 
 cedence of all on the road except what is called 
 the " gold courier," or heralder of the approach of 
 government gold, who, besides having two stamps, 
 has an endorsement to that effect on the pass. 
 
 To merchants and ordiaary travellers only one 
 stamp is accorded, which is merely a permission to 
 travel, but gives no guarantee of speed, or certainty 
 of obtaining horses. Of course we could only obtain 
 the one stamp, but we relied on being passed on 
 by travelling with Russian officials ; a fact which 
 we accomplished. It seemed so strange, bowling 
 away at so many miles an hour — after the tedious 
 motion of the camels — ^having to hold on at the 
 corners for fear of being whisked out. Everything 
 of course to us was couleur de rose. 
 
 The gentleman we stayed with possessed all 
 sorts of vehicles, all good and well-made, and also 
 
222 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 capital steeds. The wealthy portion of the in- 
 habitants mostly drive ; we noticed very few 
 walking ; of course in summer it may be different. 
 In winter it is even too cold to walk. Sitting down 
 well wrapped up, one's feet enveloped in a sort of 
 huge golosh lined with fur, which every Russian 
 wears and on entering a house leaves in the hall, is 
 warmer than walking. Besides, taking exercise in 
 a huge fur coat down to the heels, is embarrassing. 
 There was one thing we found most trying, after 
 the free-air life of the desert we had led. The 
 houses were all heated up with immense stoves ; 
 generally one or two large ones in the centre of 
 the house, by which means a portion is let into 
 the walls of the various rooms. The double 
 windows were also all hermetically sealed. It was 
 truly awful to us, after living so long in the open 
 air ; we felt quite stifled, and every now and then 
 had to rush out into the open to get a breath 
 of air. Besides, it must be dangerous, going out 
 from such a temperature. We both felt upset 
 and sick. On entering a house a blast of hot air 
 meets one, and certainly we used to perspire and 
 feel very faint. I think this accounts for the want 
 of colour in the faces of the inhabitants in Russia 
 generally. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 223 
 
 It is the fashion in Russia to celebrate what is 
 called the jour de nom, and this not being the 
 busy season we found ourselves in for a lot of 
 entertainments, which we forthwith unanimously- 
 resolved to enjoj. A jour de nom means, if the 
 gentleman or lady of the house is blessed with 
 the name of the particular saint which occurs on 
 any given day, all friends and acquaintances go 
 and congratulate him or her, and remain in a con- 
 tinual state of eating, drinking, and playing cards 
 (which last all Russians are addicted to) from 
 morning until evening. 
 
 The day we arrived happened to be one of these 
 festive occasions at the richest merchant's house. 
 Our host, who was going to give his congratula 
 tions, took us with him, and there we at once met 
 and were introduced to all the notabilities of 
 Kiachta and Troizkozavsk, which is the town 
 proper, being about two miles from Kiachta, which 
 is merely the mercantile station ; whereas at 
 Troizkozavsk all the officials live, with the excep- 
 tion of M. Pfallfius, and the telegraphic com- 
 munication to St. Petersburg commences there. 
 Received with the greatest cordiality, which was 
 indeed the case all through Russia, we were 
 speedily attracted to a sort of buffet covered with 
 
224 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 tempting viands and rows of bottles of wine of 
 all kinds. We soon found ourselves drinking the 
 health of the lady of the house, our own, and 
 everybody's; feeling, after such a long abstention 
 from all strong liquors, we really ought to make 
 up a little for it. During the afternoon the 
 ladies — ^who all sat in one room, and consequently 
 made shy men feel inclined to keep away from 
 that part of the building — formed a pretty picture, 
 most of them being good-looking and lively — enter- 
 tained themselves, no doubt, with the latest scandal 
 or fashions, and smoked cigarettes. They were all 
 remarkably tastefully and well dressed. The gen- 
 tlemen sauntered about, played whist, or strummed 
 on the piano — amusements they varied by con- 
 tinual applications to the buffet. A curious custom 
 there and throughout Siberia is, that gentlemen 
 dress in what we call evening clothes in the after- 
 noon, and appear in the evening in frock coats, &c. 
 As of course we were not aware of this fashion we 
 exactly reversed their custom. At about three 
 o'clock, everybody being full of good things, and 
 ourselves especially being nearly dead with heat, 
 we proceeded to make our adieus. The host 
 then invited his particular friends to return to 
 dinner at four o'clock, and we had the honour 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 225 
 
 of being included amongst that number, so we 
 emerged into the open air and were soon refresbed 
 by a rapid drive through the bracing cold at a 
 tremendous pace. Our driver, who was three 
 parts drunk — ^we afterwards found out that this 
 was the custom amongst yemschiks, and par- 
 ticularly with ours — lashed his horse into a gallop, 
 and it required all our skill to enable us to remain 
 seated on the side seats of the trap, a sort of out- 
 side jaunting-car. However, as we did not know 
 how to say " slower " we soon began to enjoy the 
 excitement, and were sorry when we spun into 
 the yard of our home. Having changed our 
 apparel, away we went again at railway speed 
 to our dinner party. The first person we met on 
 entering was a countryman of mine, Mr. Grant. 
 We had often beard of the one-legged Englishman, 
 and it may be imagined how delighted we were 
 at last to be able to converse freely with some 
 one besides ourselves, as although anything but 
 weary of each other, we had long ago exhausted 
 our mutual stock of conversation. 
 
 Another English gentleman, who assists Mr. 
 Grrant in his telegraphic duties, appeared, and I 
 am sure we overwhelmed them with inquiries of 
 all kinds, most good-naturedly answered, too, on 
 
 Q 
 
226 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 their parts. We were now summoned to dinner 
 by our host, whose band I again solemnly shook 
 for about the fiftieth time that day, and procuring 
 seats next to Mr. Grant we sat down to a well- 
 stocked table, extending all round the room. 
 About one hundred sat down to dinner. A Cos- 
 sack military band discoursed lively airs during 
 the meal. Alas ! my appetite had somewhat faded 
 with the continual application to the buffet I 
 had gone through in the afternoon. Porter, 
 which costs there about three roubles, or nine 
 shillings, a bottle, was handed round in small 
 tumblers, and consumed very largely. It is very 
 strong, being no doubt a peculiar brew made to 
 suit the climate, as I have never tasted its like 
 in England. At the conclusion of the dinner, 
 following the lead of our host, we all rose, and 
 being all supplied with champagne, which in 
 Russia is generally drank after dinner and not 
 during dinner, we drank to the health of the 
 hostess. We then marched round the table towards 
 the ladies' room, where we shook hands with the 
 host and the hostess, everyone saying something, but 
 not knowing Russian we contented ourselves with 
 the shake of the hand. We then again left, being 
 invited to return to the ball at eight. I was now 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 227 
 
 beginning to feel tired. For the first day we had 
 done pretty well, so I took the opportunity of getting 
 a snooze. But how I did wish we could open a 
 window to air our room ! We nearly determined, 
 in our desperation, to fall against a window and 
 smash a pane, by mistake. 
 
 At eight o'clock we found ourselves at the ball, 
 and there were lots of girls, some good-looking 
 and very rich, but unfortunately few who could 
 speak any other language than their own- — Russian. 
 We danced away for some time, being introduced 
 to nearly every one ; but what with porter, sweet 
 Russian wine, champagne, &c., and the intense 
 heat of the room, I was glad to steal away 
 quietly at twelve o'clock, and reaching home pro- 
 ceed to sleep. My friend, anxious to keep up our 
 reputation as being able to drink against any 
 Russian, found a hard head in the commissaire 
 of police, and the result was that at 4 a.m. he 
 tumbled over me as I lay on the floor, and 
 woke up later on with a very bad headache, 
 which however we attributed to the bath. So 
 ended our first day in Kiachta. 
 
 We did not feel much inclined to rise before 
 ten, after our last day's exertions. We then pro- 
 ceeded to our host's office, and found him busily 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 engaged with Chinese and Mongols. We wished 
 him good morning, and smoked out the usual 
 cigarette. I helieve Russians smoke cigarettes all 
 day. The first thing, on entering a room, you are 
 presented with a cigarette — and very good ones as 
 a rule. Wherever we went, we always found the 
 box of cigarettes. Spain is a cigarette country, 
 but I fancy Russia is even more so. 
 
 I found in my diary the following remarks, 
 which perhaps may not be out of place here : — 
 
 " The merchants in Kiachta are mostly very 
 rich, a great many of them possessing large shares 
 in the gold mines in Eastern Siberia. Formerly, 
 before the northern ports were opened in China, 
 they had the whole monopoly of the tea trade with 
 Russia, but of late years that has diminished, and 
 now, with the Suez Canal open, it will still further 
 decline. They generally live in fine large houses, 
 all built of wood, and capitally furnished. They 
 live well, and seem to swim in champagne and 
 porter. The women are good-looking and most 
 amiable." 
 
 On Tuesday, the 19th, we paid a visit to the 
 Greek church, which is a very handsome building 
 indeed ; but, although to say so to a Russian would 
 create great offence, we could not help thinking 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 2=29 
 
 that it looked remarkably like a Roman Catholic 
 church. It was wonderfully decorated with pic- 
 tures, all of a religious tendency, but not of very 
 great value in an artistic point of view ; a great 
 deal of gold and glitter appeared everywhere. 
 Altogether, the orthodox Greek church did not 
 come up to our ideas of simplicity. The whole 
 effect was decidedly gaudy. 
 
 We witnessed a service in the minor, or winter, 
 church, which is a small portion set apart for the 
 cold season, heated to a very disagreeable extent. 
 The singing, which was conducted by a choir of 
 seven, was execrable. In Grreek churches there 
 are no organs. The priests, who wear long hair, 
 in their dress and manner of worship reminded us 
 much of Rome ; and I am afraid we were not as 
 impressed as we wished to have been. A stranger 
 would put Russia in the first category as a candi- 
 date for being styled a religious nation, as certainly 
 in every small village one or more fine handsome 
 churches exist ; but I think the outside of the 
 platter signifies more than the actuality. 
 
 After leaving the church, bent on sightseeing, 
 we paid a visit to the Chinese town of Mai-Mai- 
 Chin, named the same as the town situated in 
 front of Urga. 
 
230 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 There were abundant evidences of wealth ; the 
 streets, at least the principal one, consisted of cer- 
 tainly the finest Chinese houses I have ever seen, 
 with large courtyards, full of merchandise; and from 
 the interiors of one or two houses we were allowed 
 to see, we concluded the owners must be pos- 
 sessors of great wealth. The Chinese certainly, 
 as far as Kiachta, outwit the Russians and Mon- 
 gols, as the two towns take a good portion of the 
 trade. 
 
 We visited the yamun of the Chinese governor : 
 a very handsome edifice, containing a temple for 
 his Excellency's own use. We happened to see 
 his Excellency and suite, who were proceeding to 
 the temple to satisfy their consciences before in- 
 dulging in the pleasures of the day, and they 
 looked miserably cold. I shoiild think they de- 
 voutly wished themselves back again in their own 
 sunny clime. The Chinese are wide-awake enough 
 to recognise Russia as a dangerous neighbour, and 
 so always send a mandarin of high rank as gover- 
 nor to Mai-Mai-Ohin — a post I believe, however, 
 not much coveted. 
 
 We tasted a very peculiar samshue (spirit made 
 from rice) here, not at all like the same spirit in 
 China. It has an aromatic flavour, and when 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. : 231 
 
 heated, and taken in little cups, is not at all 
 disagreeable. 
 
 Having satisfied our curiosity as to Mai-Mai- 
 Chin — there not being much to see — ^we drove 
 over to Troizkozavsk^ and had the pleasure of 
 sending a telegram to London, which made us 
 feel quite civilised again. 
 
 "We then proceeded to visit various shops, for 
 the purpose of buying skins for the journey to 
 Irkoutsk, and we managed to buy each of us a very 
 good deehar, or reindeer skin, which is the best 
 outer coat to be got, as it keeps out the wind and 
 cold. It is a mistake to attempt to purchase the 
 whole outfit for the journey through Siberia at 
 Kiachta ; it is much better to get the deehar, some 
 felt socks which pull over the boots, and a pair of 
 fur gloves, and wait until reaching Irkoutsk, where 
 everything is much better and cheaper. Our 
 deehars cost us twelve roubles, equal to £1 16s., 
 and they lasted us well the whole way to Moscow. 
 We finished; our day by dining with Mr. Grrant, 
 and if the telegraph had inclined us to feel we 
 were getting near home, how much more did the 
 capital English dinner, first-rate beer, and genial 
 conversation of our kind host make us feel even 
 closer still ! 
 
232 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 I began to feel rather alarmed about my fingers, 
 whicb, as far as the first joints, had become useless. 
 They were white and dead, and my alarm was not 
 diminished by being told that if they turned black 
 they would fall off. It may be imagined how 
 anxiously I continually looked at them, as hourly 
 they became more useless. 
 
 We found that, as far as we were concerned, the 
 fuss made in Pekin, at the British legation, regard- 
 ing the necessity of having a Chinese passport — 
 to obtain which a delay of a day or two invari- 
 ably occurs — was unnecessary, as we were not once 
 asked for them ; but we had to produce them 
 for our Mongol Lamas. This was doubtless be- 
 cause they had neglected to provide themselves 
 at Kalgan. Redtapeism is the same all over the 
 world, and especially so where an English embassy 
 exists. 
 
 We returned home after our dinner, as we had 
 to dress for another dance. We were nearly 
 frozen, as the wind met us. During the even- 
 ing our kind host, who accompanied us, and 
 always insisted on seeing us well wrapped up in 
 furs, without which we should have been frozen, 
 
 introduced us to a Colonel B , a Russian 
 
 gentleman of great wealth and influence, who 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 233 
 
 intended shortly to depart to Irkoutsk, where he 
 lived. He informed us he had two tarantasses, 
 and most kindly offered us the ' use of one, and 
 asked us to accompany him. This was exactly 
 what we desired. 
 
 We had been very much puzzled about procur- 
 ing a tarantass, which is the only vehicle used, to 
 make the journey, at least as far as Irkoutsk. It 
 is a sort of long, old-fashioned looking carriage on 
 four wheels, with a hood ; the springs are made of 
 wood, and a good thing too, as over the roads it 
 has to go no steel ones would hold out long. It 
 is a comfortable sort of a conveyance, being long 
 enough to lie down in. The great art consists in 
 packing all the luggage at the bottom as flat as 
 possible, filling iip all the crevices with straw or 
 hay, and so forming a comfortable bed to recline 
 on. The jolting and shaking about and the 
 rattle this wonderful vehicle produces surpass all 
 description. When I first saw a tarantass it 
 certainly, in idea, took me back at least two 
 centuries, for anything so out of date I had never 
 seen. 
 
 This kind ofier of Colonel B took away 
 
 all anxiety as to our journey as far as Irkoutsk, as 
 he was travelling with a two-stamp pass, which 
 
234 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 would insure speed and attention. It is curious 
 that at Kiachta, notwithstanding the intense 
 cold, snow rarely falls, and even if it does, the 
 wind which sweeps across seldom allows it to 
 remain and so form a snow road ; thus sledging 
 is nearly unknown there, and seldom commences 
 before reaching Nijui Oudinst. We had hoped to 
 commence sledging at once, but, anyhow, it is 
 always better, even if there is snow enough, to 
 wait until arriving at Irkoutsk before purchasing 
 a sledge, as the selection, of course, is larger and 
 better. 
 
 We may certainly affirm that up to that time 
 we had been most fortunate, both in having crossed 
 the desert so quickly and so well, and then in 
 having fallen amongst so many kind friends, whose 
 chief object seemed to be to insure our comfort, and 
 render us every kindness and assistance in their 
 power. Such kindness I am sure we shall never for- 
 get; it made us frequently remark that the Eussians 
 were the most hospitable and friendly people we had 
 ever met, and most refined and luxurious in their 
 mode of living—an impression we never lost as 
 long as we were on Russian soil. 
 
 It is often stated that the Eussians are not yet 
 half civilised ; I can only say we fouad translations 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 235 
 
 of most of our celebrated English, authors, and 
 even of our periodicals, at most of the houses, and 
 also that they were well-acquainted with the names 
 and works of our principal English novelists, and 
 with the latest even trivial doings in England. They 
 are very fond of music ; at nearly every house we 
 found a splendid piano and somebody who could 
 play well on it. 
 
 I am afraid I have diverged from my subject, 
 but the recollection of the many friends we made 
 in Kiachta must be my excuse. 
 
 We remained, as usual, late, amusing ourselves 
 with dancing, eating, drinking, smoking cigarettes, 
 and watching the various whist tables. All Rus- 
 sians are passionately fond of cards, and generally 
 play well and for large stakes ; their whist is 
 rather different to ours, being very complicated 
 in marking the points. I played a few games at 
 ecarte, while my friend joined in whist, but our 
 success was not such as to raise our reputation for 
 card-playing. 
 
 The rooms crowded, not a bit of ventilation, and 
 a huge stove, sending out volumes of heat, ren- 
 dered the atmosphere intolerable. I never could 
 make out how they could even breathe in it, 
 but no one bfeyond ourselves seemed in the least 
 
236 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 inconvenienced by it. At supper, all sitting down, 
 and being provided with everything very good, 
 we learnt a new custom — I believe, peculiar to 
 Kiachta, When any gentleman fancies a lady — 
 of course he is intimate with her — he throws a 
 small pellet of bread at her ; if she takes it kindly 
 he is a lucky man. My neighbour commenced 
 throwing bread at a young lady, the richest belle 
 of Kiachta, and, after each pellet, ducked behind 
 me, so that I was surprised to see her darting 
 angTy looks at me. But it was only afterwards, 
 when I asked her to dance and received an indig- 
 nant refusal, that I learned she had resented what 
 she imagined was my rudeness in throwing pellets 
 at her, being a stranger. Of course I explained 
 my innocence and was immediately acquitted. 
 
 At a late hour we returned home, feeling 
 very different to what we used to in the desert. 
 Civilisation had already bestowed her doubtful 
 blessing on us in the shape of a headache next 
 morning. 
 
 The town of Kiachta, at first approach, looks 
 very well, especially to those who have come from 
 the barren desert of Gobi. There is nothing like 
 contrast to enhance the merits of the better of 
 the two. The first thing which strikes the eye is 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 237 
 
 certainly the lofty cupola of metal of the hand- 
 some Greek church I have before referred to. 
 All the houses in the town are, as before stated, 
 built of wood ; and this fact, combined with the 
 dreadful heating apparatus found in them, will 
 account for its having been twice burnt down. 
 It derives its wealth, which is very considerable, 
 from the fact that all goods to and from the desert 
 pass through it to be redistributed elsewhere. 
 
 I am afraid I am somewhat repeating myself, 
 but if I reiterate, it is purely for the sake of those 
 who may travel that way. 
 
 It is necessary on arrival to visit first the com- 
 missaire imperiale, to get the Russian passport 
 vised, and then to send to the commissaire of police 
 to obtain the necessary postal blank, which cost us, 
 for three horses as far as Tumen, fifty-five roubles. 
 Of course this does not include the cost of the posts, 
 the amount being merely for the pass. With the 
 pass for three horses four can always be obtained, 
 only paying for three ; and when required, five 
 for four. 
 
 Troizkozavsk is the town situated a short 
 distance from Kiachta — about two miles. Troiz- 
 kozavsk is the aristocratic town, where all the 
 officials, military men, and other swells reside. It 
 
238 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 is situated north of Kiachta, and is about two miles 
 distant from that mercantile town. There are a 
 fine church there and some very good shops. 
 The aristocracy who reside there rather look down 
 upon the dwellers in Kiachta. The true Eussian 
 has a horror of trade, and although perfectly allow- 
 ing its utility and necessity, despises the merchant 
 who carries it on. 
 
 Mai-Mai-Ohin, the Chinese town, which means 
 " entrance gate," I have already fully described. 
 
 In the evening of the 21st, our last in Kiachta, 
 we visited the circus of M. Soulier, an enter- 
 prising Frenchman, who had travelled with his 
 horses, &c., the whole way from Constantinople, 
 and now was making preparations to cross to 
 Pekin. Of course he was very anxious to have 
 all the information we could give him, which we 
 were only too glad to impart, and I must say we 
 did not, by our accounts, much cheer him up. We 
 have not yet heard whether M. Soulier suc- 
 ceeded in crossing the desert, but I should think 
 he must have lost most of his horses on the way. 
 "We did not much enjoy the performance, as the 
 cold was awful, and obliged us to leave early for 
 fear of being frozen. 
 
 We certainly arrived at Kiachta at the right 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 239 
 
 time, as it was the gay season. During the winter 
 months there is but little business doing, and the 
 people give themselves up to thorough enjoy- 
 ment, 
 
 "We terminated our visit at Kiachta on the 22nd, 
 and I am sure we carried away with us the most 
 lively remembrances of the kindness we received 
 from our kind host and M. Pfaffius and all 
 those we became acquainted with. From Mr. 
 Grrant we received every attention and kindness. 
 We had heard much of him before, and found that 
 the character he bore for hospitality, &c., was not 
 exaggerated. Arriving, as we did, as perfect 
 strangers, all the kindness we received was most 
 generous, and the assistance we got on all sides 
 was most unexpected. 
 
 At 12 M. on the 22nd of November we bade 
 adieu to our kind host and his family, and having 
 with some difficulty stowed ourselves away in our 
 tarantass, which, in the way it was then packed, 
 certainly did not impress us with the idea of com- 
 fortable travelling, for several days and nights, 
 we rattled away, jolting about sadly, towards 
 Troizkozavsk, to the residence of Mr. Grant, in- 
 tending there to take our final meal, and halt for 
 Colonel B to join us. As it may be useful to 
 
240 A LAND JOURNEY PROM 
 
 future travellers, our expenses at Kiachta were as 
 follows : 
 
 Roubles. 
 
 Postal blank ...... 55 
 
 One large deer-skin coat .... 12 
 
 3 pairs gloves, lined with fur ... 5 
 Felt stockings, 2 pairs — very useful indeed, to 
 
 pull oyer boots 3 
 
 An Astracan bat 6 
 
 81 
 My expenses, beyond those before stated, across 
 Mongolia amounted to — 
 
 Taels. 
 
 One pony 10 
 
 Milk, meat, &c. ... 5 
 
 Present to Lamas ... 5 
 
 20 
 
 The weather had moderated, and it was much 
 warmer, as we drove along ; and being wrapped 
 up in our skins, and wedged into a compoimd of 
 mattresses and luggage, we were nearly stifled. 
 
 When we arrived at Mr. Grant's the first opera- 
 tion was to repack our tarantass. "We discarded one 
 of our mattresses and several of our packages, and 
 managed to arrange a tolerably comfortable bed 
 upon which we could lie down at full length. The 
 worst of it was, that when we were on the way we 
 immediately got jolted down towards the end of the 
 vehicle, and it was no easy matter, cumbered as 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 241 
 
 we were with clothes, to manage to raise ourselves 
 up again. For those who haye been accustomed 
 to travel comfortablj by railway, the discomforts 
 attendant upon riding in a tarantass would be 
 nearly unbearable ; but to us, after the miseries of 
 the desert, of course any mode of conveyance 
 approaching to speed was a luxury and refinement 
 of travelling. I have often afterwards thought 
 of our rattling old trap, jumping and jolting along, 
 each motion enough to break one's bones. I did 
 once put my head against the side of the hood, and 
 the concussion it received nearly dislocated my 
 neck. 
 
 It was 9.30 P.M. before we left Troizkozavsk, 
 
 as our friend Colonel B did not turn up, and 
 
 even then only sent us a message telling us to go 
 on to the first station and wait for him there. So 
 at last, with many farewells and rather dismal 
 ideas of the length of the journey before us, in a 
 Siberian winter, away we went. 
 
 How heartily did we wish we were nearer 
 St. Petersburg ! After a smart drive, not being 
 yet accustomed to the noisy movements of our 
 tarantass, we arrived at the first station, Aus- 
 kiachta, at 12 p.m., rather bruised and sore, the 
 distance from Kiachta being twenty-two versts. 
 
242 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 We found ttere a clean room, but of course heated 
 up to suffocation. Unforeseen difficulties now 
 
 arose, as our friend Colonel B had not arrived, 
 
 and the postmaster asked us some questions which, 
 as we did not understand one word, we could not 
 answer, which certainly did not increase that 
 worthy oflEcial's respect for us. We had written 
 down several phrases, and we now began to consult 
 our list of them and hazarded a few as a trial, but 
 with no result. I suppose our pronunciation was 
 wrong, or we had written them down wrong. 
 We saidj however, LoscJiide getovar, which means 
 " Get horses ready at once," and this was going 
 to be carried out, which rendered us nearly frantic, 
 as we endeavoured to explain that we must wait 
 
 for Colonel B . I think we had written another 
 
 sentence, and had spoken it by mistake. How- 
 ever, we mustered up courage, after our miserable 
 failures, to say. Samovar, and with its assistance 
 we soon made some tea, which we always carried 
 with us. 
 
 We began to get seriously uncomfortable as 
 hour after hour passed, and our anxieties were 
 only relieved at last by Colonel B 's appear- 
 ance at 4 A.M. He had left after us, through 
 some misunderstanding, which caused the delay. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 243 
 
 We fully recognised the fact that in a country like 
 Siberia, having a postal blank with only one stamp, 
 and no knowledge of Russian, it would be no easy 
 matter to travel as strangers, alone ; and we felt 
 proportionately thankful that we were so lucky as 
 to have found a travelling companion. 
 
 Horses being soon placed into our tarantass, we 
 deposited a small coin, 20 kopecks (100 in a rouble), 
 on the table, for the use of the samovar, re-entered 
 our tarantass, and slept away until we arrived at 
 Korai, at 8.30 a.m. on the 23rd, having done twenty- 
 five versts from last station. The route was hilly 
 and sandy. It is of very rare occurrence that snow 
 ever falls in these districts. Here we breakfasted, 
 swallowing several tumblers of hot tea, which we 
 found most refreshing. It is always necessary to 
 take a sufficient stock of provisions, as eatables are 
 rarely obtainable at the post stations. It is the 
 custom to give the driver a small navodka, or drink 
 money, according to the speed he has driven at. In 
 sledges, by promising 40 kopecks, we sometimes 
 attained the speed of 1 6 miles per hour ; but the 
 usual drink-money is 20 kopecks. As an example 
 of the cost of posting, our three horses, from Aus- 
 kiachta to Korai, cost 1 rouble, 20 kopecks, equal to 
 3s. 9cZ., for 20 miles. This is not dear. We found 
 
 K 2 
 
244 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 the expenses, as far as Tumen, very light; after 
 that they increased considerably. We left again at 
 9.30 A.M., and proceeded through some very pretty 
 scenery, to Pororodni, which place we reached 
 at 1 P.M., with four horses, the distance being 
 twenty-five versts from our last station. Here we 
 lunched. 
 
 -At first starting we felt rather nervous at 
 going downhill, as the drag we used was about 
 the most clumsy piece of iron we had ever seen, 
 and did not give us much comfort as to its re- 
 straining powers, we fully expecting it to go to bits 
 at every hill. 
 
 The yemschik, or coachman, took us at a tre- 
 mendous pace downhill, and so gave an impetus 
 to the vehicle which nearly took it up to the top of 
 the next one. To hear our old wheels going, every 
 particle of the trap in a quiver, certainly required 
 a little nerve at first to make us quite enjoy it. 
 When firmly wedged in we always found ourselves 
 with our heads lower than our heels. Our legs, 
 which were encased in all manner of coverings, 
 were so bulky and useless that we used to get them 
 helplessly jammed in the boot of the trap, and 
 always had difficulty to extricate them when we 
 arrived at the post station. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 245 
 
 One thing which soon gave us. confidence was 
 that the little spirited horses never fail ; they put 
 down their heads, whisk their tails, and hound 
 away with a wild scamper as if they fully enjoyed 
 the fun. I am sure the driver, who had no power 
 over them, trusted entirely to Providence to escape 
 any accident. 
 
246 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 We arrive at the Eiver Selinga and cross it by the Ferry Boat — The 
 town of Selenginslc — Disgusting Condition of the Post-house — We 
 find a Friend — The intense Cold as we proceed to Obokunztske 
 — The splendid State of the Snow Eoads, and the Pace of our 
 Tarantass, especially downhill — Gaps in the Eoad and Jumps in 
 our CouTeyance — We arrive at Sichanonar — We skirt along the 
 Lake Baikal — Sudden Storms upon this Lake — The splendid 
 Scenery — We pass through fine Pine Forests — Mechia — The Site 
 of a Battle Field between the Poles and Eussians — Eeports of the 
 dismal Condition of the Eoads in advance— Jumping the Sledges 
 over Chasms in the Eoad — Sudden Change from Calm to a terrific 
 Storm on the Lake. 
 
 At 2.30 P.M. we proceeded on again, with four 
 horses ; the country being very hilly and heavy. 
 The river Selinga, which we had to cross, we soon 
 arrived at, and found that although it was partially 
 frozen over, we could not cross it, so had to have 
 our traps and horses placed in large boats. The 
 operation took us twenty minutes. The boat is 
 allowed to drift with a very swift current to the 
 other side, the crew rowing with flat pieces of 
 wood, and so guiding its progress. We reached 
 the opposite bank without difficulty, and paid a 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 217 
 
 rouble for the passage ; and after a rapid drive 
 over roads partially covered with snow we arrived 
 at the small town of Selenginsk at 3.30 p.m., twenty 
 versts from the last station. 
 
 We drove through the town, which is beautifully 
 situated in a valley surrounded by lofty mountains, 
 and looks clean and prosperous, and possesses the 
 usual church, with its lofty spires and domes. 
 
 Arriving at the post station, to our chagrin we 
 found we could not get any horses until morning. 
 This was a foretaste of the various delays we were 
 doomed to meet with during our journey through 
 Siberia, It was only then 3.30 p.m. ; what were 
 we to do with ourselves ? We inquired for private 
 horses, but there were none. The post had come 
 in before us and of course took precedence ; it 
 had taken all the horses available. It struck me, 
 from what we saw later on, further in Siberia, that 
 the post stations, as far as Irkoutsk, are not properly 
 kept, as at some stations, beyond Irkoutsk, we 
 found as many as sixty horses. 
 
 We were wondering what to do to pass the 
 time, Mr. Walcott and myself having come to the 
 conclusion that to remain in the post station was 
 an impossibility, the atmosphere being simply dis- 
 gusting — I should thirdc it must have been months 
 
2-18 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 since a window had been opened, and already at 
 that early hour travellers were sleeping on the 
 ground, half undressed, and looking very dirty — 
 when an invitation, written in very good English, 
 came for us, from a Russian gentleman whose 
 acquaintance we had made in Kiachta and who 
 had heard of our arrival. At first we thought of 
 declining, as our appearance was anything but 
 presentable, but while we were debating our kind 
 friend came round and took us all three with 
 him. We had noticed a fine-looking house, on our 
 entrance into the town, and this proved to be the 
 residence we were invited to. 
 
 We were introduced to the lady of the house 
 and found a small and friendly company, which in 
 Russia is most sociable and enjoyable. No absurd 
 restraints, everybody knows everybody, and music, 
 singing, dancing — in fact anything is indulged in 
 calculated to keep up a constant flow of innocent 
 amusement. 
 
 We soon recognised several faces we had seen in 
 Kiachta, and were most warmly greeted by some 
 young Russian artillery oEGcers whose acquaintance 
 we had made ; and very well informed gentlemen 
 they were. The usual amount of eating and drink- 
 ing followed, and we performed our share heartily. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 249 
 
 Some very quaint national songs were sung with 
 great effect, and our host, who played the piano 
 very well, discussed a sonata, accompanied by a 
 Russian officer on the violin. 
 
 Before bidding a final adieu to all these kind 
 friends, we visited the quarters of the Russian 
 artillery oflScers, and were presented with photo- 
 graphs, and, what was very valuable to us, some 
 capital tobacco. At last we made our farewells, and 
 strolled away to the station ; and awfully cold 
 it was. 
 
 My friend had determined to sleep in the taran- 
 tass, preferring to run the risk of being frozen, to 
 breathing the foul atmosphere in the post station ; 
 but I was rather afraid of doing so ; I soon found 
 however that I could not stand it ; a quantity of 
 new arrivals were strewed about on the ground, 
 and the stench was intolerable, so I also slept 
 in the tarantass, taking the precaution to wrap 
 myself well up ; and we were only awoke in the 
 morning by the horses being harnessed in. We 
 found every breath had frozen and formed a 
 coating of ice upon the wrappers we had covered 
 over our faces ; whiskers, beard, and moustaches 
 frozen hard, and forming spikes as sharp as a pin. 
 It was very cold as we faced the wind at 4 a.m. 
 
250 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 A rapid drive brought us at eight o'clock to the 
 small station of Arbotscke — distance 25 versts ; fare 
 (4 horses), 1 rouble 62 kopecks. Changing horses 
 here, and drinking lots of hot tea, which we always 
 found preferable to spirits — in fact spirits are too 
 potent for the clear ozone one inhales, as the least 
 thing in the shape of strong drink mounts to the 
 head — we bowled away along a capital road, passing 
 through a beautiful and hilly country to Obo- 
 kunztske, where we dined at twelve o'clock, making 
 a capital meal out of our joint stock of provisions. 
 We had a sort of soup, called, pillmania, composed 
 of small balls of suet filled with meat, but it used 
 to produce sucb violent indigestion that we gave it 
 up. The sun had come out, the wind had fallen, 
 and the temperature became quite pleasant. We 
 fully enjoyed the scenery, and the novelty of the 
 life we were passing. Such a splendid atmosphere ; 
 the sky looked the purest blue I have ever seen, 
 the frost hanging on tbe trees, gently falling like 
 spangles to the ground, glittering in the sun as the 
 breeze passed through the brancbes. The snow, 
 which was becoming thicker as we advanced, pro- 
 mised well for sledging. Every hill was clearly 
 marked in the horizon and sbarply defined. How 
 could we help feeling happy, and enjoying tho- 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 251 
 
 roughly all we saw and did ? How different from 
 the old hackneyed tourist routes, crowded with 
 travellers, all bent on seeing the same old sights 
 again — nothing of adventure, nothing new ! With 
 us everything was bright, we were learning at 
 every turn something fresh. 
 
 We found at Obokiinztske that the postmaster 
 and family were about to dine, so as we had not 
 with us too large a stock of provisions we re- 
 quested to be allowed to share their dinner, and a 
 capital one it was, to us. Soup, called Tzchee, com- 
 posed of vegetables, a little milk {molokd), and a 
 huge lump of meat, formed a meal of itself; the 
 cutlets which followed, doubtless, in a country 
 where plenty is always found would be considered 
 rather queer food, as they were of an immense 
 size (which we rather appreciated), and uncom- 
 monly greasy — I have no doubt but that, were 
 they offered us now, we should refuse to face them ; 
 a peculiar sort of cabbage, soaked in a very in- 
 ferior kind of lamp-oil, followed, but, although we 
 had long ago got over all daintiness, we could not 
 manage to swallow any of it. This sumptuous 
 repast cost the three of us, and also the dinner for 
 Colonel B.'s two servants, three roubles, or 9s. ; 
 not dear, considering the country we were in. 
 
252 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 Much comforted, we jumped, or rather rolled, into 
 our tarantass again ; it was no easy matter, cum- 
 bered as we were with furs, to climb into our 
 ancient vehicle. I used generally to take a header 
 in, and when nearly suffocated get tolerably fixed. 
 
 We enjoyed very much the rapid drive to Bot- 
 kara, twenty-five versts, which we accomplished 
 in two hours and a half. We proceeded onwards, 
 with as little delay as possible, and travelled over 
 a great deal of snow, which we hailed with much 
 pleasure, looking forward to soon being able to 
 sledge. Just as we started from Botkara our horses 
 bolted, and took us straight up against a house — 
 fortunately with but little damage, which was soon 
 repaired with rope. We crossed the Selinga again, 
 this time on the ice, and drove into Nijni Oudinsk 
 at 8.30 A.M., down a hill, at a pace which took away 
 
 our breath. Colonel B took us to a house 
 
 belonging to a servant of his, as he had business 
 here, and we were to wait for him ; this we found 
 a pleasant rest after the shaking we had endured. 
 Every bone in my body felt sore, and I was alto- 
 gether very much fatigued. The only drawback 
 was that the rooms, as usual, were intolerably hot. 
 
 We had been passing through a most beautiful 
 country before arriving at Nijni Oudinsk, with 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 253 
 
 everywtere increasing signs of cultivation and 
 prosperity. The scenery in the neighbourhood of 
 the river Selinga is very fine indeed ; the banks 
 are lined with lofty hills, covered with pine forests. 
 As we crossed over the ice, the sun, which had 
 become obscured by passing clouds,, gave a gloomy 
 grandeur to the scene which was highly impres- 
 sive. All the villages we had seen were clean, 
 and composed of strong log-houses, something like 
 Swiss chalets, the better ones having beautifully 
 carved fronts. The peasantry seemed rich and 
 prosperous, and being so few in number — some 
 300,000 in all Siberia — have plenty of room to 
 get on, without interfering with each other. 
 
 We found nearly all the post stations as far as 
 Nijni Oudinsk very tidy and pleasant, but intoler- 
 ably close and stuify. The postmasters, without ex- 
 ception, were most obliging. We had heard so much 
 to the contrary that we were agreeably surprised to 
 find ourselves so well treated ; but some who travel 
 make a point of seeing everything in the worst light, 
 never being contented, and making themselves 
 as obnoxious as they can. In an account of a 
 similar journey to this through Siberia, written by 
 an English traveller, we found various lamentations 
 as to the miseries endured, and various delays on 
 
254 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 the route. That journey was undertaken at about 
 the worst time in the year, in the autumn, when 
 the rivers are only commencing to freeze, but 
 sometimes enough to make ferry communication 
 difficult ; the roads are at that time in a dreadful 
 condition, as they are left to themselves some time 
 before the snow forms. Any traveller who would 
 make this route must make up his mind to take 
 things as they come, and not groan and grumble 
 at everything. It must also be remembered that 
 Siberia, until very lately, was nearly unknown to 
 Europeans and that even now very small portions 
 have been explored. Another thing I read in the 
 account referred to was, that the writer, at one of 
 the post stations, found a Polish postmaster who 
 was delighted to see an Englishman, and — no 
 doubt, poor fellow, never imagining his conversa- 
 tion would appear in print — entered into a politi- 
 cal discussion. As the book was translated into 
 Russian I fear the unfortunate postmaster is now 
 expiating his rashness, in misplacing confidence 
 in a stranger, in one of the mines. I heard a good 
 deal and I saw a great deal on my way through 
 Siberia, but I do not think I have any right either 
 to introduce conversations entered into in con- 
 fidence or to criticise the people I sojourned with. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 255 
 
 sneer at ttieir manners, or return ingratitude for 
 all the kindness we received wherever we went. 
 When I commenced my homeward route I made 
 up my mind to find travelling very difficult, so do 
 not feel at all justified at indulging in retrospective 
 grumblings. I perfectly confess that the method 
 of getting over the ground, especially in the taran- 
 tass, was anything but agreeable, and I felt it 
 enough to make me sometimes very miserable ; 
 but for all that, I do not see why I should enter 
 into violent diatribes against everybody and every 
 thing in the country. 
 
 . As far as we had gone we found no difficulty in 
 getting horses — of course this was all due to our 
 being in company with Colonel B ; and travel- 
 ling was very cheap. 
 
 We always found on showing our podorojna — or 
 postal blank — that we were at once provided 
 with horses. Our pass only stipulated that we 
 were to have three horses, as the government 
 regulations are particular as to keeping horses 
 always ready for post communication and carriers, 
 but we were nearly always able to obtain four or 
 five as required, paying only for three or four, 
 never for more. 
 
 Having servants with us, they generally started 
 
256 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 before we did, and so, reaching the next station 
 sooner, we found horses waiting for ns and the 
 samovar boiling, tea already made, and thus were 
 saved much time. 
 
 Happily all our luggage consisted of flat leathern 
 bags, and so, with a thin mattress over them, and 
 being well wrapped up, we were, I am sure, more 
 comfortable than the Colonel, who however did not 
 seem to care much, probably being accustomed to it. 
 
 It is impossible to place any luggage at the 
 back of the vehicle, as, although there is generally 
 a place for it, even if tied on with the strongest 
 cord it would soon be cut off and stolen. The sun 
 only rose about 9°, so we had not much daylight ; 
 it set at 3.30 p.m. The horses we used were 
 small but very strong, and trot along at any pace. 
 
 We had only time to change our clothes and get 
 a limited wash — our supply of water being confined 
 to a tea-kettle, which shed a few drops into the 
 palms of the hands and is thence transferred to the 
 face. The Colonel, who in travelling costume 
 hardly did justice to his appearance, came out an 
 unlimited swell, in evening coat, &c., with plenty of 
 decorations, when lots of friends who had heard 
 of his arrival came to pay their respects, &c., 
 and of course then commenced the usual amount of 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 257 
 
 eating, drinking, and smoking, until our rooms, 
 whicli we were to sleep in, became unbearable. 
 Finding we could not get any ventilation by 
 means of windows, we resorted to an artifice ; we 
 took it in turns, when nobody was paying attention, 
 to open the outer door, and although of course it 
 was soon discovered and shut, still it gave a breath 
 of air ; but the owner of the house, who ought to 
 have been a stoker, supplied the huge stove from 
 time to time with armfuls of huge logs of wood, so 
 that when our various friends departed our apart- 
 ments were like a Turkish bath, and full of tobacco 
 smoke. But after travelling in the tarantass, 
 although we had no beds, but only the floor to lie 
 down upon, we soon managed to get to sleep ; and 
 when we woke up in the morning, the fire having 
 gone out -in the stove, we found everything hard 
 frozen and bitterly cold. 
 
 There is not much to see at Nijni Oudinsk. It is 
 a small clean-looking town, containing about 4000 
 inhabitants ; the houses are well built, mostly of 
 wood. It has a good market-place, and four 
 churches of some architectural pretensions. A few 
 troops were quartered there. It was too cold to 
 walk about, but it certainly would not take one 
 hour to see the whole place. 
 
258 A LAND JOUBNEY PEOM 
 
 Colonel B having finished all he had to do 
 
 we started again at 3 p.m. of the 25th in sledges, 
 as there had been a good fall of snow, quite suffi- 
 cient to form a good road. Another officer in a 
 Cossack regiment joined us here, so we had three 
 vehicles, and most primitive ones they were ; they 
 seemed, with the exception of the wooden runners, 
 to be composed of small sticks, matting, and ropes, 
 and it was a wonder they held together at all, 
 
 Mr. Walcott and myself travelled in one sledge, 
 the Colonel and Cossack officer in another, and the 
 two servants in the third. We had to arrange our 
 baggage again as well as we could. Our sledge 
 was quite open. The motion of the sledge, after 
 the tarantass, was delightful as we glided along 
 over a smooth hard road at a rapid but hardly 
 perceptible pace. 
 
 We proceeded for some distance on the River 
 Selenga, and then, crossing over to the left bank, 
 we struck inland away from it. We were in the 
 act of becoming most enthusiastic about sledging 
 as compared with other modes of travelling, and 
 stating that it would be a long time ere we 
 became tired of it, when our faith was roughly 
 shaken, for all of a sudden, without the slightest 
 notice, over we went, Luckily, we were going 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 259 
 
 rather slowly, and so we managed to stick in the 
 sledge by holding on hard to the sides and to each 
 other until the horses were pulled in. We how- 
 ever began to think that if this were to be part of 
 the fun it would become a rather seriously unplea- 
 sant state of affairs before reaching Nijni Novgorod. 
 Of course we were now kept on the alert, and it was 
 well we were, as we had not gone far when over 
 we ti])ped again, and this time we were going at a 
 good pace. The yemschik was thrown, but some- 
 how or other we managed to grasp the reins, and 
 after going some distance to stop the horses. 
 
 We really began to feel somewhat alarmed now, 
 and we debated what we should do, but as we had 
 only gone half-way to the next station, and the 
 other two sledges were far ahead, and we could 
 not make the drivers understand a word we said, 
 we had to submit to being righted again, and 
 proceeded onwards, feeling very uncomfortable. 
 
 A little way on we came to the top of a very 
 steep hill. Nothing will stop a sledge once 
 launched at a good pace downhill, so away we 
 went at a tremendous pace, but not far before over 
 we went a third time, and were on this occasion shot 
 out against a bank. Being wrapped up in so many 
 coverings saved us from being much hurt, but we 
 
260 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 were much shaken. The coachman was thrown, and 
 we could see the sledge on one side bowling away 
 downhill at an awful pace, and it was only stopped 
 by running into a cart at the bottom, "We were 
 neither of us generally given to feeling nervous, 
 but we certainly did not care about entering the 
 sledge again, which, however, as we were near the 
 next station, we did, and proceeded slowly there. 
 Of course all our delightful anticipations of the 
 comfort of sledging had vanished. On arriving 
 at Polowinger — thirty versts, at six o'clock, fare 
 1 rouble 50 kopecks — we immediately informed the 
 Colonel, who, however, did not seem to think much 
 of it. We examined our sledge and found that one 
 of the long fenders, which project from the side 
 and alone kept the vehicle from overturning, was 
 broken ; this immediately accounted for our mishaps, 
 so procuring some good strong rope we had it well 
 repaired, and somewhat doubtingly got in again, 
 and reached without accident Elinga — twenty-three 
 versts, fare 1 rouble — at 9 p.m. ; but on our way to 
 Tarakanopsky, where we arrived at 10.30 p.m., 
 we again turned over. So we now made up our 
 minds that unless something was done we would 
 wait for another sledge, and not risk our necks any 
 longer. Finding we could not get any new fenders 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 261 
 
 there, we arranged to post as the servants had 
 done, handing them our sledge. It entailed our 
 taking a fresh one every station, but as we kept 
 our baggage in the old sledge we found it not at 
 all disagreeable, as all our wraps were always 
 arranged for us. , But the sledges were very small 
 and did not give much room for the legs. So we 
 arrived at Kabanst at 2.30 a.m., without further 
 mishap, on the 26th of November. Here we 
 changed our. sledge and began to experience the 
 pleasure of gliding along at from ten to fifteen 
 miles per hour, especially as we felt quite safe. 
 Taking a short cut, avoiding a station, -thereby 
 saving fifteen versts, we reached Posolskoi, at 
 8.30 A.M. 
 
 This station is situated on the Lake Baikal, or, 
 as it is more commonly called by the peasantry, la 
 mer Sainte. The Mongols call it Bai hoi, meaning 
 lake of fire. It is supposed to have been formed 
 by an extinct volcano. It is in its narrowest 
 place 30 miles across and about 400 miles long. 
 It is said that soundings in the centre have never 
 yet been obtained. Surrounded by lofty hills and 
 mountains on all sides, and narrowing and widen- 
 ing at various intervals, it is liable to fearful 
 storms, which come on very suddenly, especially 
 
262 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 towards winter, and the navigation is considered 
 very dangerous and diificult. Large waves roll in 
 like those at sea, on to the shore. 
 
 Before arriving at the station we were undecided 
 whether to cross by the steamer or by the new 
 road round the lake, which had, however, been 
 mostly destroyed by the great inundations in the 
 autumn, and was not considered safe ; but on get- 
 ting there — and bitterly cold it was, 20° or more 
 below zero ; I thought I had lost my nose and 
 ears, as they were quite dead ; a little longer, I 
 am sure they would have been frozen — we were 
 informed that we could not go round the lake, but 
 must wait for the steamer, whose movements were 
 most uncertain. One of the steamers had been 
 recently burnt, so there was only one now — and 
 such a craft ! — an old crazy barge, of a design cer- 
 tainly before Noah's time ! Her last trip, seventy- 
 two miles, she did in five days ! Once she had 
 taken thirteen, as when it blows off the shore she 
 can neither approach nor land her passengers. Her 
 rate of speed, with an enormous consumption of 
 wood, was, I believe, at most, two knots per hour ; 
 and her snorting could be heard miles away ; and 
 more dirty or wretched accommodation it would 
 be difficult to conceive. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 263 
 
 It is curious that with the direct traffic from 
 China to Russia passing this route there never 
 should have been good steamers. They would 
 have paid well. Of course, now that the Suez 
 Canal is open, most of the tea will take that 
 route to Russia, and divert much of the traffic. 
 But such an odd-looking craft as the General 
 something was (I forget the name now) I shall 
 never forget. The station was full of people, and 
 it was some time before we could get thfe samo- 
 var. The heat was rather welcome this time, as I 
 was most miserably: frozen. My fingers and toes 
 were in fearful pain. Walcott's nose was slightly 
 frost-bitten and he suffered much from it after- 
 wards. 
 
 Whilst we were debating as to what we were to 
 do and wondering how we could pass the time 
 and how we could exist in the dirty station of 
 Posolskoi, waiting, perhaps for days, until the 
 steamer left, some new arrivals put us at our ease, 
 they just having come by the new route round the 
 lake. They, however, gave us a dismal account of 
 the state of the roads, telling us to prepare to 
 encounter some really dangerous incidents, which 
 were not at all exaggerated, as we found out 
 afterwards. 
 
264 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 But anything was preferable to remaining 
 where we then were ; so after a very short debate, 
 in which we all agreed without discussion, we 
 decided to depart at once and try our luck. We 
 were *very glad to go this way, as the route is 
 little known and it was something new. 
 
 Having made up our minds to start by this 
 route we at once ordered horses, which after a 
 short delay we obtained, three for each sledge. I 
 do not think I shall ever forget the cold. A 
 strong north-east wind was blowing right in our 
 teeth, which, although we were well wrapped np 
 and faces covered, it was impossible to keep out. 
 We proceeded for about an hour on the borders of 
 the lake. It was hard frozen, and I think at the 
 rate we went we must have done fully thirteen 
 miles in the hour, as we reached Goltomensky at 
 ten o'clock, after a drive of an hour and fifteen 
 minutes, the distance being twenty-five versts. 
 On arriving at the station, quickly changing 
 horses, we proceeded over a capital road at 
 splendid speed. The snow on the road being as 
 smooth as a billiard board, the sledge once launched 
 downhill nothing will stop its progress ; so on 
 arriving at the summit of one of the many un- 
 dulations in the road, the driver giving a whoop, 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. '265 
 
 away go the horses, full of excitement, downhill, 
 and with impetus enough to reach the top of the 
 opposite one. I must confess my first feeling was a 
 rather nervous one, and I experienced a very curious 
 sensation, at dipping down nearly perpendieularly 
 Qfift-moment, which made it difficult for us to avoid 
 being pitched but of the sledge, and then rattling 
 away as hard as we could go up the opposite hill, 
 looking straight up to the skies, which nearly sent 
 us out of the back, the speed taking away our 
 breath. It took us several of these dips, which 
 occurred very often during our journey round the 
 Lake Baikal, before we became accustomed to the 
 motion. However, after having shot a few. of 
 these extraordinary gaps in the road, we gained 
 confidence, and fully entered into the excitement 
 of the speed we were travelling at as the sense of 
 danger disappeared. 
 
 We arrived at Sichanonar at twelve o'clock ; 
 distant fifteen versts, fare 1 rouble 20 kopeks 
 for four horses. Here we dined, and enjoyed it 
 very much. Nothing like this sort of travelling 
 for good and healthy appetites ! After leaving 
 this station, we skirted along the Lake Baikal, and 
 we, could well imagine that fearful storms come 
 upon it suddenly. The waves, like those breaking 
 
266 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 in from the ocean, were rolling in with sullen roar 
 upon the beach, and dark heavy clouds were hang- 
 ing over the mountain tops ; the whole forming 
 from the height a grand and imposing appear- 
 ance. * The woods and mountains which we were 
 passing through were covered with snow, and the 
 branches of the trees were bent to the ground with 
 the weight of frozen snow which clung to them. 
 Large blocks of ice, confusedly tossed on the 
 waves of the lake, washed towards the shore, and 
 became frozen in masses and formed miniature 
 icebergs — a sublime and picturesque scene such as 
 we never before or since have looked upon. 
 
 As we proceeded the scenery continued fine, and 
 the roads being good we began to scout the idea 
 of the difficulties we had heard so much about, and 
 we gave ourselves up to the comfort of the sledge 
 and the exhilarating excitement of the speed with 
 which we were driving through the fresh and 
 bracing air. 
 
 The pace at times was truly tremendous, but we 
 now felt no alarm as to the capabilities of the 
 sledge, as we were provided at each station with 
 a good one. The road, which at this part of the 
 lake is carried along the edge of a precipice, is 
 only wide enough at places for a single sledge. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 267 
 
 It becomes at various intervals very bad, full of 
 holes, and as there were no fences on the side, a 
 false step would soon have hurled us over the 
 mountain. 
 
 Passing through some magnificent pine forests 
 we arrived at a small, station, the name of which I 
 forget, at three o'clock, and after changing horses 
 proceeded onwards. The road we had to pass 
 over was very deep with fresh-fallen snow, and at 
 times our sledge, although drawn by five horses, 
 was with difficulty pulled through the heavy drifts, 
 which were nearly two feet deep. This very much 
 retarded our progress, so that we did not arrive 
 at Mechia, twenty-five versts, before six o'clock. 
 This station is famous for a great battle which 
 was fought on the spot some years ago, between 
 the Poles and Russians, resulting in a victory for 
 the latter. 
 
 Here, as usual, we refreshed and warmed the 
 inner man with the usual quantity of tea and 
 cigarettes, and here we were entertained with 
 dismal reports as to the condition of the road 
 before us. The difficulties which we found were not 
 at all exaggerated ; for after leaving Mechia, we 
 made a steep descent on to the lake, and we had then 
 to skirt along its borders, over some very awkward 
 
268 A LAND JOUENEY FBOM 
 
 bits, the roads having here been in places entirely 
 destroyed ; and it was only by jumping the horses, 
 sledge and all, at full speed over the various chasms 
 on the road, that we managed to surmount what 
 seemed to us, as we approached them, insurmount- 
 able obstacles. 
 
 At last the road became so bad and dangerous 
 that although it was freezing to any extent, and 
 we had to divest ourselves of some of our wraps, 
 we got out of our sledges and walked a bit. The 
 wind, the enemy we most feared, had died away ; 
 and now, as we walked along close to the lake, it 
 appeared as calm as glass ; overhead, a clear cloud- 
 less sky, with hundreds of bright, stars, shining 
 each with its own distinct refulgency ; not a sound 
 beyond the whoop of our driver was heard to 
 disturb the silence, nor a living being beyond 
 ourselves in sight. Lofty mountains, with their 
 pine-clad crests towering to the heavens con- 
 fusedly in gigantic forms, proudly defiant with 
 their snowy breasts, as if conscious of their own 
 magnificence and strength, surrounded us on all 
 sides. 
 
 I must confess that notwithstanding the cold, and 
 although weary with trudging through the deep 
 snow, covered with furs, &c., I could not resist the 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 269 
 
 feeling of intense awe and wonder which came over 
 me as the scene gradually grew into my senses. 
 Although it was night, still the air was clear and 
 bright, and every star gave a reflection of its own, 
 which made everything as visible as if it were day. 
 But to prove how quick changes occur in this 
 lake, even while I was dreaming and wondering 
 whether heaven could be like the scene before us, 
 where no storms arise and calms abide for ever — 
 black clouds, as if by magic, stole over and obscured 
 the scene ; the wind began to move the branches 
 of the trees, and cause heavy balls of snow to fall 
 about us, and the lake, which just before was so 
 tranquil, 
 
 Bore wave on wave, lashed forward by the breeze. 
 
 In a moment the tops of the mountains disap- 
 peared, enveloped in deepest gloom, and all we 
 could hear was the groaning of the forest trees as 
 they swayed about, shaken by the mighty wind, 
 and the sullen boom of the waters thrown upon 
 the stony beach. Of course this necessitated a 
 halt, as it was too dark to venture along the road, 
 as it would have been only too easy to drive into 
 the lake, and its depth is too well known to have 
 made it anything but an agreeable prospect. But 
 
270 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 very soon the stars shone forth again, the clouds 
 rolled heavily away, and beyond a small addition 
 to our incumbrances, in the shape of a coating of 
 fresh-fallen snow, and the agitation of the lake, 
 which had not yet subsided, we should hardly have 
 been able to imagine that a storm had come and 
 gone with such marvellous rapidity. But all this 
 time we were becoming congealed, and sentimen- 
 tality, although very refreshing in a genial climate, 
 unfortunately did not prevent us from return- 
 ing again to the reality of our existence, and 
 lamenting the absence of all sense of feeling in our 
 feet, and giving way to the doleful feeling that 
 our toes were frozen and would probably remain 
 in our boots when we took them off ; and for days 
 afterwards we suffered from the freezing we got 
 that night. We proceeded over a rather better bit 
 of road and reached the next station at twelve 
 o'clock. It was a nice new and clean building, as 
 indeed, are all the post stations on the Baikal. 
 The road ahead being very bad, and the cold 
 intense, it was deemed advisable to wait here a 
 few hours for the moon, and we were not at all 
 sorry to wrap ourselves up in our cloaks and lie 
 down upon the floor before the stove, as we had 
 not been able to indulge in much sleep lately, it 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 271 
 
 not being easy to do so in a sledge or in the 
 intense cold. We here learnt that we were the 
 first who had passed over this route, towards 
 Irkoiitsk since the inundations, but a few had come 
 the opposite direction. 
 
272 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Intensity of the Cold— Horrible State of the Roads, and dangerous 
 Situation of our Sledges — We reach Murmske — The Beauty of 
 the Scenery at this part of the Lake Baikal — We arrive at 
 Mouradeofsky, and strike inland — We cross a Branch of the 
 River Angara, the last River to freeze in Siberia — L-koutsk, the 
 capital Town of Eastern Siberia— We replenish our Clothing and 
 Stores— The Landlord of our Hotel attempts to delay us — 
 Drunkards sentenced to keep the snow Roads in order — We make 
 the Acquaintance of a Russian OflBcer, who agrees to travel with 
 us to St. Petersburg — Russian Fashions with respect to Dress — 
 Polish Exiles at Irkoutsk— The Gold and Silver Mines of Siberia 
 — Terrible Nature of the Convict Labour, chiefly for political 
 Offences — Enormous Riches of Owners of these Mines — The 
 Government Mines furnish the Emperor's Income — The various 
 Tribes iu the Neighbourhood of Lake Baikal — Different Methods 
 of Salutation observed during our Route — A first-rate Restaurant 
 — Dilatory Nature of the Town People. 
 
 At 3 A.M. of the 27th of November, very loth 
 indeed to move, we made a start again. I had 
 been dreaming all manner of pleasant things, and 
 it did seem hard to turn out again into the bitter 
 cold and only half awake. However, we managed 
 to doze at intervals through a very heavy snow- 
 storm, which covered us in our open sledge about 
 four inches and was most disagreeable. We made 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 273 
 
 the best of it, altliough we felt mtensely aggrieved. 
 Fancy the snow pelting against one's face, melting 
 by our breath and then freezing again ; it certainly 
 was not pleasant. The horses were all covered 
 with icicles and looked like magnified hedgehogs. 
 Our whiskers and moustaches became bristles, and 
 would have cut any one who should have chanced 
 to run against us. "We arrived at a small station 
 at 5 A.M., and a general rush was made by the 
 contents of our two sledges to secure the best place 
 near the stove, and there a general thaw com- 
 menced, and various grpans as to the inclemency 
 of the weather and the roads before us. 
 
 "Warmed again by the beverage of the teetotaler, 
 we started once more. "We really did feel grateful 
 that the snow had ceased to fall, but it had made 
 the road very heavy. "We passed over some awful 
 places on the road and were obliged to walk a 
 good deal, which half froze us, having twice to 
 turn out of our warm wraps ; but how the sledge 
 managed to go over huge rocks, large gaps in the 
 road, and blocks of timber, trees, &c., and not get 
 capsized into the lake was a wonder, but doubtless 
 very much due to the skill and judgment of our 
 driver. The road at this portion of the lake 
 had been entirely destroyed. The telegraph posts 
 
274 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 had been also swept away but had been renewed 
 again. 
 
 Arriving at Snier Ziga, or "station of snow," 
 eighteen versts from the last station, we made our 
 lunch, and it was a necessity for all of us, as we 
 were feeling quite done up. I never felt much 
 the desire for strong drink, as I have before stated, 
 the atmosphere supplies its want ; but I must say 
 just then I would have given much for a small 
 glass of brandy. But then we had none, and at 
 that time I had not accustomed myself to swallow 
 the strong Eussian spirit. The first time I took a 
 glass it entirely took away my breath and rendered 
 me speechless for some time. 
 
 Leaving again, we continued for some distance 
 to skirt along the sides of the lake, the road for a 
 short way being rather better ; but it soon dis- 
 appeared and we had to take the old road, which 
 certainly, if not dangerous, looked so. We had 
 some tremendous ascents and descents to make 
 without any railings at the side of the road, 
 which was only wide enough for one sledge, 
 and was not made more convenient by the tele- 
 graph posts being placed in the centre, so that we 
 had always, in order to pass them, to send one side 
 of the sledge up on the bank. I really did begin 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE '275 
 
 to think that if this sort of road was to go on much 
 longer we might consider ourselves very lucky to 
 accomplish our journey safely, as I am convinced 
 we indulged in a succession of the narrowest 
 shaves ; and although the old maxim, that a miss 
 is as good as a mile, is quite true, it did not make 
 us feel quite happy. It is a great strain on the 
 nerves to be constantly going through these 
 perils, one of which per diem would be quite enough 
 for the ordinary traveller. What I used always to 
 dread was coming suddenly to the top of a hill. We, 
 being in the foremost sledge, on looking down 
 could see the narrow road turning sharp corners, 
 with no manner of railing to keep us from going 
 over the precipice. We had to go full speed in 
 order to avoid being run over by the two sledges 
 which came rattling down hard behind us. Had 
 one of the horses fallen it certainly would have 
 been all up with us in a very brief space of 
 time. 
 
 It came on to show heavily again, and we were 
 nearly smothered, but luckily this time it was 
 freezing so hard that it did not melt, and we did 
 not get as before a regular mask of ice ; but it was 
 most trying. 
 
 The scenery all along from the last station was 
 
 T 2 
 
276 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 magnificent ; splendid woods on each side. Now 
 and tten we would catch glimpses of the opposite 
 bank as the clouds rolled oiF the lofty mountains. 
 We reached Murmske at two o'clock and pro- 
 ceeded onwards without delay. The weather 
 improved but the cold increased, our thermometer 
 marking 62° of frost. We had to walk two miles of 
 the way, as the road took us by the lake and was 
 too dangerous for us to remain in our sledges. 
 We reached the small station of Oii-tu-Leek at 
 half-past eight and left again at nine. 
 
 We had some more disagreeable hills to pass over, 
 the road being unpleasantly narrow. But it was a 
 splendid night, and although there was no moon 
 the wind had died away and the stars shone 
 brightly. The lake was . perfectly calm, the lofty 
 pines glistened, with thw' branches laden with 
 frost ; the air was clear and cold, and the bells on 
 our horses rang merrily as we rattled away — the 
 drivers shouting and we comfortably wrapped 
 up. It really was most enjoyable, and after all 
 worth all the trouble we had taken to see such 
 really charming scenery, and which I do not sup- 
 pose could be found of equal and similar beauty 
 in any other portion of the globe. What a great 
 idea one gets through travelling over strange 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 277 
 
 countries of the grandeur and magnificence of the 
 Creator ! 
 
 At 2.30 P.M. of the 28th we arrived at Moura- 
 deofsky, called after a former governor of Siberia. 
 After leaving this station the road became much 
 better, and we struck inland away from the lake 
 and followed a tolerably flat plain for about sixteen 
 hours, when we reached another small station at 
 6 P.M. There we were much delayed for want of 
 horses, so had to remain, much to our annoyance, 
 until eight o'clock. We then proceeded to Botshie- 
 gobolsky, which we reached after a splendid drive, 
 having passed through a large village and crossed 
 a wide frozen river, a branch of the Angara, a 
 little further on re-crossing it, and at 3.30 p.m. we 
 entered the village of Vijenski. 
 
 This is a long straggling village, and has a 
 curious wooden church with green domes. This 
 was the last station before Irkoutsk, where we in- 
 tended remaining a few days to make arrangements 
 for continuing our journey. We were not at all 
 sorry, as after the hardships we had gone through 
 in consequence of the roughness of the roads, a 
 rest was becoming absolutely necessary. Losing 
 no time, as we were anxious to reach Irkoutsk 
 as early as possible, we started off again — a long 
 
278 A LAND JOUENBY PROM 
 
 road as narrow as a bowling alley, over which our 
 sledge glided at a rapid pace. Of course, when one 
 is in a hurry even the greatest speed seems slow, 
 and this last part of the journey did seem intermin- 
 able. "We were delayed some time on the banks of 
 the Angara, which was not yet frozen over, waiting 
 for the ferry. I believe the Angara is generally 
 the last river to freeze in the winter in Siberia. 
 But at last we could discern the approach of the 
 ferry through the heavy steam which was rising 
 from the river and clinging to us as it froze. The 
 ferry was a sort of a large floating bridge, worked 
 by ropes from the other side. Five sledges, horses, 
 men and all, crossed on it, and it was large enough 
 for more. At last we reached Irkoutsk, and drove 
 up to the Hdtel Amour at 7.30 p.m. 
 
 Although to the European traveller this barrack 
 of a building, magnificently called an hotel, would 
 probably appear miserable and dirty, to us it was a 
 splendid affair. We found sofas — beds are unknown 
 — and also are washing apparatus in the rooms. We 
 got a good dinner, consisting of magnificent large 
 sized cutlets and a decoction called Madeira, which 
 however we very much enjoyed ; and after having 
 had a Russian bath we retired to our sofas, which 
 were the only approach to a bed that we had seen 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 279 
 
 since leaving Pekin, and slept until late next 
 morning. 
 
 On the 29tli, when we rose from a refreshing 
 slumber, which had entirely done away with the 
 fatigue of our journey, the thermometer stood at 
 40° below zero, or 72° of frost ; so it may be 
 imagined how awfully cold it- was. Our first care 
 was to purchase each a good long pelisse lined with 
 fur (called schuhes by the Russians), some very 
 thick gloves lined with skin like mittens, and a cap 
 something like a grenadier's, made of Astracan, 
 which I could pull right over my face. 
 
 We also ordered some socks "made of goat skin 
 and some high felt boots. The cold there was so 
 intense that it seizes hold of one's nose, ears, 
 fingers, &c., in a second, and frost-bites frequently 
 occur. 
 
 We made the acquaintance of several Russian 
 officers, who kindly showed us about and told us 
 what to do, &c. But we did not see much of the 
 town at one time, as it was too cold to drive about 
 much. 
 
 We at once began to look for a suitable sledge, but 
 without success. We afterwards found out that there 
 were plenty, but our landlord was not anxious to 
 part with' us so soon, so kept that fact from us. 
 
280 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 We also inquired if any Russian officers, who at 
 that time of the year go a great deal to St. Peters- 
 burg, Were likely to be found, but without success. 
 
 I advise any one strongly who may travel 
 through Siberia to make up his mind to take 
 things easy. 'It is no use being in a hurry, as that 
 aspect of ajBfairs is utterly unknown in Siberia. I 
 never saw such people for procrastination. Do 
 to-morrow what you can do to-day, should be their 
 motto. However, as we did not expect to do much 
 in one day we were not disappointed. 
 
 When we rose on the morning of the 30th, 
 notwithstanding the presence of a huge stove in 
 our rooms, everything was hard frozen and the cold 
 was most disagreeable ; we only ventured out for a 
 short distance, and were glad to return and place 
 ourselves as near the stove as possible. But I must 
 say that Irkoutsk is not an interesting place, and 
 one drive through it is quite sufficient. The streets 
 are wide and clean, and the houses, built of wood, 
 and a few stone ones, are good ; but there are no 
 public buildings worth seeing. While we were 
 there an exhibition of machinery, produce, &c., was 
 being held by the inhabitants. This exhibition 
 was considered very good. I must say it reminded 
 me very much of a show in a country fair. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 281 
 
 They have a capital way of keeping the roads in 
 order there. Any one found drunk in the streets 
 by way of punishment has to work on them the 
 whole of the next day ; and by what I saw there 
 must be a good many drunkards in Irkoutsk. 
 The snow roads are kept even by cartfuls being 
 brought in from the country and poured out on 
 the roads, the drunken amateurs having to spread 
 it smoothly over. 
 
 We fortunately made the acquaintance of a 
 captain in the Russian artillery, who seemed a 
 very nice gentlemanly man, and he agreed to 
 go with us to St. Petersburg, thereby taking 
 all anxiety away as to our future travelling. 
 He was armed with a courier's pass, so that 
 would insure speed at least. We only required 
 a good sledge, and commenced at once active 
 inquiries. 
 
 Irkoutsk being the capital town of Eastern 
 Siberia the governor resides there and holds his 
 court. Receptions take place Thursdays and Mon- 
 days, and are attended by the officers of the 
 garrison, who must be very numerous, as we hardly 
 saw any one else. The garrison consists of some 
 two thousand men. Russian officers do not like 
 being stationed in Siberia, and look upon it as a 
 
282 A LAND JOUKNEY FROM 
 
 sort of exile, to be endured with as mucli patience 
 as possible. 
 
 Society at Irkoutsk is very exchisive, and holds 
 very much to itself, as is generally the case where 
 it is limited. We were fairly astonished at the 
 number of generals and colonels we came across, 
 like blackberries in a hedge. A most extraordi- 
 nary custom, at least so it seemed to our Anglo- 
 Saxon ideas, was that when paying a morning 
 visit men wore evening dress, and those who had 
 decorations wore them also ; whereas in the even- 
 ing, at a ball, they wore morning dress — exactly 
 reversing our ideas. We were proceeding to pay 
 our respects to a certain general when a friend 
 met us and asked to see how we were dressed. It 
 was rather insulting to be told (because we had 
 taken some trouble in our attire) that we could not 
 pay the intended visit in morning dress ; so we 
 had to return and put on evening costume. This 
 prevented us making the acquaintances we other- 
 wise should have done, as we had no inclination to 
 drive about in dress clothes all day. 
 
 A great number of Poles reside in Irkoutsk, who 
 have been exiled from their own fair land. They 
 only manage to exist by following trades or some 
 menial occupations. They are mostly men of edu- 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 283 
 
 cation and family, and many of them were formerly 
 rich, but when they are exiled they lose all rank 
 and social standing. They have no names, and all 
 their property becomes confiscated to the crown. 
 They cannot bear witness in court, in fact socially 
 they cease to exist ; and a fine race of men they 
 are as a rule, 
 
 Austria has given her Polish subjects entire 
 freedom, whilst Russia holds hers still degraded 
 and enslaved. Russian Poland includes 18,000,000 
 inhabitants. There is no doubt but that the suffer- 
 ings of the Poles may be attributed very much to 
 the continual plots and disturbances against the 
 Russian government. With the greatest sympathy 
 for the Poles, I cannot help feeling that it would 
 be wiser and happier for them to acquiesce, how- 
 ever hard and degrading it may be, in what must 
 ever be their existence. Russia intends to keep 
 Poland and gradually Russianise it. 
 
 There are also a great many Russian exiles at 
 Irkoutsk undergoing banishment for various poli- 
 tical offences. A perfect system of espionage is 
 kept up, so that it would be impossible for one of 
 these unfortunate people to quit the town or do 
 anything without its being known. Irkoutsk 
 contains in all a population of 30,000. 
 
281 A LAND JOUENEY PROM 
 
 It is calculated that in Eastern Siberia alone 
 there are at least thirty to forty thousand Polish 
 political exiles ; but they are kept in different por- 
 tions for fear of disturbances, a great many having 
 to work in the mines — a species of forced labour 
 especially dreaded. Many a Pole of gentlemanly 
 education and good family has been condemned 
 to this dreadful labour ; and no wonder that, to 
 deaden their senses and forget their existence, 
 they take to drinking the horrible spirits made in 
 the country, and die drunkards. 
 
 There is as little to see in the neighbourhood 
 of Irkoutsk as there is in it. About forty versts 
 away there is a large manufactory of crockery, 
 glass, and all kinds of knicknacks, called tie- 
 tsienske. This is a curiosity for Siberians, but 
 hardly for European travellers. 
 
 I do not think it would be out of place at this 
 portion of my book to give a slight description of 
 the mines in Siberia and the different races of 
 people. I have compiled a small map which shows 
 the situation of the gold and silver mines. It was 
 a subject I studied carefully and I think the infor- 
 mation, &c., I received were correct. All the gold 
 mines in Altai, about one hundred in all, with 
 the exception of twenty-seven, belong to and are 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 285 
 
 ■worked by the Russian government. The twenty- 
 seven were given to great functionaries, and they 
 let them out again to merchants. For example, 
 at the mines of Sierra, Marientzky, a merchant of 
 
 Yenesech, pays yearly to the Duke of 3000 
 
 roubles for each 40 lbs. weight. In this mine it is 
 calculated at least 1440 lbs. of gold remains. The 
 merchant has to give all his gold to government, 
 which in return gives him bills payable at different 
 dates at the treasury, less the crown tax, which I 
 believe is 25 per cent. 
 
 As a rule, the crown mines are not so good or 
 productive as the private ones, attributable, most 
 likely, to the jobbery which exists in them. The 
 mines of Yiechem and Olexina were formerly 
 governmental, but so badly managed as to yield 
 no profit. No sooner however did they pass into 
 private hands than they yielded immense fortunes. 
 The mines of Enissigk Taygar have yielded already 
 6000 pouds (a poud is 40 lbs.) and are not yet 
 exhausted; and the rivers Sereghkind, 'Chorma, 
 and Ognya have also up to the present yielded 
 2000 and 3000 pouds each. 
 
 The proprietors of the gold mines, accustomed 
 to enormous fortunes, spend their money with a 
 prodigality hardly to be conceived. They do not 
 
286 A LAND JOURNEY PEOM 
 
 deny themselves anything they fancy, let the ex- 
 pense be ever so fabulous. A merchant, well 
 known in Siberia, made out of his mines in a 
 short period 40,000,000 roubles, equal to nearly 
 £7,000,000 sterling. This he soon spent, and 
 became bankrupt for over £1,000,000. 
 
 The silver mines are mostly governmental ; a 
 few belong to merchants. Situated in Buchlar- 
 nartal and in Nertschinsk, they are all very 
 abundant in supply. It is stated that the ofiScials 
 who superintend the working of the silver mines 
 make large sums of money ; they are under no 
 control, and so can easily exaggerate the working 
 expenses. Thus the yield to the government, 
 instead of being 25 per cent., is seldom over 5 per 
 cent. These mines form part of the emperor's 
 income. The head superintendence is generally 
 given by the emperor to some relative, who 
 contrives to make a good thing out of it. 
 
 The mines of Zizyamoosk were once the scene 
 of a quarrel. It being reported that the superin- 
 tendent had understated the yield, he, in revenge, 
 inundated it, so that all the mining was stopped. 
 
 There are splendid copper and iron mines in 
 Eastern Siberia, but little worked, as it is more 
 expensive to convey the metals to towns where 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 287 
 
 tliey could be smelted, &c., than to get manufac- 
 tures direct from England. There is a mountain 
 fifteen miles from Yenesech which, out of 40 lbs. 
 excavated, gives 24 lbs. of iron and 4 lbs. of steel 
 of first-rate quality. 
 
 On the Eiver Abakan gold mines producing the 
 best metal are being found, but not many yet, 
 although there is evidence of abundance in the 
 neighbourhood . 
 
 In the whole of Siberia there are only 4,000,000 
 inhabitants, or two men to a square mile. The 
 extent of country is 300,000 geographical square 
 miles. Savages still exist in Siberia. The Ostyak 
 tribes are in the west ; by the River Yenisee, the 
 Toongose, who are quite savage ; and in the north 
 of the Yennesechs, also in Altai, the Teleotan, Sy- 
 yotan, and Tartars live. These tribes live by fish- 
 ing and hunting, and are innocent, harmless people. 
 Near Irkoutsk, about the Baikal Lake, live the 
 Bouriats, and farther east the Yackoutans; still 
 further east the Kawoshshie, Ohoukchies, and quite 
 east the Kamchadal. 
 
 The southern Siberian tribes are agriculturists ; 
 the northern, hunters. There are three iron fac- 
 tories in Siberia ; one near the Baikal, the second 
 by the Abakan, .and the largest in Tumen. There 
 
288 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 were formerly some governmental factories in 
 Altai, but they did not succeed. The principal 
 agricultural produce of Siberia is flax. 
 
 One word more on the gold mines before closing 
 this subject, which I fear has not been very 
 interesting. The mines are badly worked and 
 superintended. It is difficult to get the labourers, 
 who are chiefly convicts and political exiles, to 
 work, as they drink hard to drown dull care, and 
 spend in winter all they earn in summer. Many 
 of the owners are, or have been, bankrupt through 
 their reckless extravagance and gambling. They 
 do not like an intelligent man, as he knows too 
 miich ; they prefer a drunkard. They only look 
 to the day and let to-morrow take care of itself. 
 
 On Sunday, December the 5th, we were still at 
 Irkoutsk, as although we had picked up a sledge as 
 big as an omnibus, which could have been repaired 
 in a few hours, it was not yet ready for us. We did 
 feel heartily sick of remaining so long inactive, and 
 the completion of our journey seemed as far off as 
 ever. 
 
 The thermometer stood at 50° below zero. In 
 January it goes as low as 70°. I invested in a 
 small covering for my nose, as I had several 
 escapes of losing it from frost-bite. 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 289 
 
 It was curious to note the habits and customs of 
 the countries we passed through. The Chinese 
 salutation is folding the hands together and 
 raising them up and down several times. The 
 Mongols hold up their thumb to salute, and to 
 clench a bargain place their hand on the sleeve 
 of the party they have made the bargain with. 
 The Bouriats do much the same as the Mongols, 
 but clench their bargains with a drink of schnapps. 
 The Russians shake hands for everything ; if 
 friends, they kiss one another on the lips, but 
 if only acquaintances they shake hands. 
 
 At Irkoutsk the Amour hotel is the best ; there 
 is another one, I believe, but from all accounts it 
 is exceedingly bad. When saying the best, I 
 mean the best of the bad; but after a journey 
 like we had taken it was very comfortable. 
 Cleanliness is unknown. There are no washhand- 
 basins in the rooms, but once in the morning an 
 overworked waiter, who, as far as I know, never 
 seemed to go to bed, being the* only waiter in the 
 hotel, came round with a metal jug and basin. 
 A few drops from the former he lets trickle on 
 the hands, which are transferred to the face. 
 This is all the visitor gets in the way of wash- 
 ing, and to do this once a day is considered the 
 
 TI 
 
290 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 refinement of cleanliness. There are capital 
 vapour-baths to be had in the town, but we found 
 them very weakening, and they cannot be taken 
 often. The dinners at the Hotel Amour were so 
 atrociously bad that we could not eat them, and 
 I would recommend any one who may find himself 
 at this dreary town to visit the Polnische Gasta- 
 ninske, a first-rate restaurant, where we dined every 
 day at four o'clock. All the ofiicers seem to dine 
 there, and play billiards all night afterwards ; in 
 fact, as I have said before, one sees nothing but 
 officers everywhere in the town. We were for- 
 tunate enough to make the acquaintance of a fine 
 old Polish gentleman, an exile, who spoke English 
 perfectly, and had been in England formerly 
 some time. He was kind enough to show us 
 about the town, and assist us in procuring our 
 outfit. Irkoutsk is a very dull place, and I never 
 wish to be in it again. I cannot help recalling 
 the fact that I was dismally - disappointed with 
 it, and our delay 'there was most annoying ; but 
 it is impossible, as I had before remarked, to do 
 anything there in a hurry. The people seem 
 there to do next to nothing, and the little they 
 do they get through in a very undecided and slow 
 manner. The only person whom I saw look really 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 291 
 
 energetic was that unfortunate solitary waiter at 
 the hotel, who was running about all day and 
 nearly all night, and was constantly getting into 
 a perplexed and confused condition. His in- 
 variable answer when called was, Horoscho, good, 
 and Sechass, immediately, which, however, meant in 
 an hour or two hence. How or where he slept was 
 a mystery, but that he never tQsk off his clothes 
 or boots until age took them to himself, there is 
 no doubt. That he also disdained cold '%ater I 
 am certain of Before we left he had learnt our 
 requirements and to understand the signs we 
 made, and really attended to us very well — I 
 am afraid much to the detriment of the other 
 people who were staying in the hotel. 
 
 V 2 
 
292 A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 OPIAPTER X. 
 
 The public Sledges at Irkoutsk— We kiss our male IWends and 
 proceed — Our Russian military Fellow-traTeller is immovably 
 wedged with us in our Sledge — We find we have been robbed 
 whilst at the last Hotel— We reach Bokara— The wedging Pro- 
 cess in the Sledge gives us all Cramp— Our Sledge breaks down — 
 We thaw our Noses — After travelling through a fline Country we 
 arrive at Cotitoulikskaya — Our Sledge takes to sliding sideways 
 — A warm Day, only Thirty-two Degrees of Frost— Our Drag 
 breaks as we are going down a precipitous Part of the Road — 
 The Churches the only Btiildiags of Importance in the Towns we 
 pass — My Leg nearly frost-bitten, on a Sack of frozen Soup — 
 Our covered Sledge turned into a Stalactite Cave — Alzamayskaya 
 — The Delights of Sledging — We are terribly bumped by Merchan- 
 dise Sledges — Splendid Country for a Railroad — The Eastern 
 Land Route — We travel on the frozen River Yenisee — The 
 Town of Krasnoyarsk — Obliged to buy a new Sledge — We 
 approach the Steppes of Baraba — A fearful Snow-storm — 
 Method of indicating the proper Sledge Road— We take the 
 wrong Route — A cut-throat Peasant Host. 
 
 The sledges at Irkoutsk are very plentiful. They 
 ply about the streets for hire like the cabs in 
 London. They are very neat little arrangements 
 and large enough for two, aiid have generally a 
 sturdy little horse in them and go along at a 
 brisk pace. The fare is thirty kopecks, equal to 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 293 
 
 about tenpence per hour. The sledge roads last 
 generally from the middle of November to the end 
 of April. Snow has been known to fall there 
 seven feet deep. 
 
 On the 6th of December we managed to get the 
 sledges we had piirchased ready by twelve o'clock, 
 not however without many misgivings that we 
 should still be delayed another day, as something 
 was sure to turn up at the last moment. We 
 had to kiss all our male acquaintances, which I 
 must confess I did not care much about doing; 
 but after all the kindness we had received we 
 felt bound to accede to what is a sign of the most 
 intimate friendship. We started punctually at 
 
 twelve, and managed, three of us, a Captain , of 
 
 the Eussian artillery, and ourselves, to wedge into 
 one sledge, not, however, without much puffing 
 and blowing, as it was no easy task to manoeuvre 
 with the quantity of garments we had on. 
 
 Our sledge, which was covered over with mat- 
 ting, for which we paid forty roubles, equal to six 
 pounds sterling, which certainly was cheap, looked 
 like Noah's ark on slides. 
 
 We found our bill was very high for what the 
 hotel had afforded us, and discovered we had each 
 lost in some unaccountable manner 200 roubles. 
 
294 A LAND JOUENEY PEOM 
 
 which, however, of course no one in the hotel knew 
 anything about. We were somewhat consoled by 
 our new travelling companion finding that he was 
 also minus fifty roubles. 
 
 "We crossed the River Selenga by a ferry-boat and 
 proceeded to Bokara, which we reached at 1.30 p.m., 
 the distance being fourteen versts. We left again 
 immediately, and found we could always easily get 
 horses, as our travelling companion had a govei'n- 
 ment paderoshne. Arrived at Sounarskaya, twenty- 
 two versts, at 3, and Thelminskaya at 5.30 p.m. ; 
 by that time we had somewhat shaken down. My 
 place was in the middle, which I am inclined to 
 think was the best, as it was warmest. I had to 
 sit forward, which gave more room. The sledge 
 was about six feet wide and seven long. We had 
 become tolerably comfortable, with the exception 
 of finding our arms and legs too much confined 
 and being unable to move. I suffered awfully 
 from cramp for the first few days. The great 
 diflSculty we had was to keep clear of each other's 
 legs; as the sledge narrowed towards the end 
 there was very little room, our legs being encased 
 in so many pairs of boots of all kinds. I believe 
 the only little ill-feeling ever engendered between 
 us during the whole journey arose from the fact 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 295 
 
 that we found we eacli had a leg too mlich, 
 which interfered with our mutual comfort. One 
 of my feet, from being wedged sideways between 
 two boxes at the end of the sledge, got so painful 
 towards the close of the journey that I began to 
 fear that I should lose the use of it. But to 
 resume, at the last-named station we found that 
 our sledge already wanted repairing, one of the 
 fenders being broken, the most necessary part of 
 it, without which it is sure to capsize. 
 
 This was only the commencement of the nume- 
 rous repairs our sledge required on the way. 
 When we parted with it it was literally all cords 
 and bits of wood. We had pushed on to pass 
 these stations before dark, as the neighbourhood 
 enjoys a very bad repute, convicts being there in 
 large supply, who occasionally amuse themselves 
 by stopping travellers and despoiling them of 
 their goods; and although we were warned, I 
 am sure neither of us could have got his revolver, 
 as we were much too tightly wedged together. 
 In fact, we did try for experiment, and found that 
 two minutes at least were necessary to get hold of 
 those weapons and be ready to use them. Before 
 sleeping we rearranged our sledge ; all the baggage 
 in the bottom, hay over it, and then a mattress and 
 
296 A LAND JOUENEY FBOM 
 
 pillows pushed well forward, which, after dinner, 
 we really felt quite luxurious. So we got on 
 better, with the exception of all suffering more or 
 less during the night from violent cramps in our 
 legs and arms, only one being able to move at the 
 same time, and he only with his neighbours' 
 consent. We took turns to blow our noses, as, if 
 done simultaneously, we should have burst the 
 sides of the sledge out. 
 
 The thermometer was 10° below zero, 42 of 
 frost, which, after the much greater cold we had 
 been enduring, was quite tolerable. 
 
 At Maltinskya we were delayed, there being 
 no horses available, so slept there, which, as the 
 room was heated up to about bath heat, was most 
 uncomfortable, besides being constantly haunted 
 by the unpleasant thought that our sledge was 
 being looted, which made it necessary for one of 
 us to pay it an occasional visit. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th, after having passed 
 through a fine country, with magnificent scenery, 
 and villages denoting every sign of wealth and 
 prosperity, without any incident worth recording, 
 we arrived at Ooiitoulikskaya, 157 versts from 
 Irkoutsk, then on to Zalarinskaya, 30 versts further 
 on, where we arrived at 1 p.m. Our course then 
 
ASIA TO EUKOPE. 297 
 
 took US over a very beautiful and hilly country, 
 when our sledge began to show evident signs of 
 being top-heavy, and of preferring, whenever we 
 were spinning away^down hill at an awful pace, to 
 go sideways, which, besides being most uncomfort- 
 able, gave us all stiff necks, as we naturally turned 
 our heads towards the side window, which was then 
 in front. This propensity never left our vehicle, so 
 after a time we became accustomed to it, as well as 
 indifferent to its overbalancing on the fenders, 
 
 I felt quite warm during the day, there being 
 only 32° of frost. Still proceeding through a 
 wooded hilly country, we reached Thiretskaya at 
 3 P.M. — twenty-two versts in one hour and fifteen 
 minutes ; good going, but nervous work for novices 
 in our ark. 
 
 Before coming to Ziminskaya, where we arrived 
 at 6 P.M., we had to make a tremendous descent, 
 which, looking down from the top, looked most 
 alarming ; especially as one side of the road was 
 on a precipice and had no protecting railing. A 
 drag, made of ropes, was brought into operation, and 
 coiled round one of the slides. Not being strong 
 of course it burst half way, and away we went 
 quicker than any express train, our sledge bowling 
 about in all directions. The impetus was so great 
 
298 A LAND JOUENET FEOM 
 
 that we only managed to pull up at the summit of 
 the opposite hill. 
 
 It soon came on to snow, which made the roads 
 very heavy, but at all events it made us rejoice that 
 we had a covered sledge. Passing several stations 
 during the night, we arrived at Thoulinskaya 
 at eight next morning. I had managed to sleep 
 through the night and only woke up in the morn- 
 ing ; but having slid down to the end of the sledge 
 I was nearly smothered and had to be hauled out. 
 It was, however, some time before my legs, which 
 were quite useless with cramp, gave any symptoms 
 of coming to again. 
 
 The sun rose at 9.30 a.m., and set at 3 p.m. ; but 
 it was light about an hour before it rose, and there 
 was a twilight of an hour and a half; and besides 
 we had a splendid moon. 
 
 Thoulinskaya is a long straggling village, and 
 has a very handsome church. All the villages we 
 passed through in Siberia possess one or more 
 fine churches. They are always the most noticeable 
 buildings, and seem to be well cared for. The 
 villagers all look healthy and strong, and the 
 women are good-looking, with large black eyes. 
 Beggars seem to be unknown, for I don't think we 
 saw one until we entered Russia Proper. 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 299 
 
 The villages look clean and prosperous, and are 
 well built ; all the houses are made of wood. 
 
 "Without any incident we reached Houdoye- 
 lanskaya at four o'clock, where we dined. We had 
 with us a large sack of frozen soup, in slabs, called 
 tehee, made of beef and vegetables, &c., and we 
 always found it first-rate. We always carried this 
 sack at the foot of the sledge. One night I could 
 not make out how it was that, do what I would, 
 my right leg became nearly frozen, although as 
 well wrapped up as usual ; however, the morning 
 disclosed the reason : my leg had been reposing 
 on this sack of frozen soup. 
 
 The greatest comfort, at all the stations, was the 
 ever-boiling samovar, which produced, with the 
 assistance of the tea we carried with us, the most 
 refreshing beverage, on a journey like the one I 
 am describing. The traveller must remember that 
 in this portion of Siberia provisions or wine are 
 seldom to be had ; so he should always lay in a 
 good supply at the small towns which are met at 
 intervals. We carried some sherry and champagne 
 with us, which, however, we had to thaw before 
 drinking, as although we carried them in the 
 warmest part of the sledge, they were always 
 frozen to the very bottom. Perhaps an idea of the 
 
300 A LAND JOUBNEY FEOM 
 
 intensity of the cold may be given by the following 
 incident, which happened on our journey. 
 
 We had purchased a bottle of what in those 
 regions was called Madeira ; a decoction which 
 would be considered utterly undriukable in Eng- 
 land, being so full of spirit. After leaving the 
 station, we had agreed to divide this bottle equally, 
 no one to drink without the other's knowledge. 
 The bottle was under my pillow. About twenty 
 minutes afterwards, thinking my companions were 
 asleep, I gently extricated the bottle, drew the 
 cork, and raised it to my mouth, feeling very much 
 in want of it. To my disappointment, it was frozen 
 to the very bottom. Of course my friends, who 
 were not asleep, had a good laugh at my expense. 
 Some hard-boiled eggs we carried with us were 
 frozen under our pillow in a few minutes as hard 
 as stones. 
 
 We reached Kargatougskaya at seven, and Nijni 
 Udinsk, a small town on the river Uda, at 9.30, 
 having made 483f versts from Irkoutsk. The 
 last two stations, as at Kiachta, are seldom visited 
 by snow ; and we had anticipated having to 
 mount our sledges on carts ; but, as good luck 
 would have it, snow had fallen, so we were not 
 delayed. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 301 
 
 There being nothing to see, or delay the traveller, 
 at Nijni Udinsk we proceeded onwards. At the 
 station, however, feeling that great wish for beer or 
 porter which is always so strong when not obtain- 
 able, we inquired of the postmaster if a bottle of 
 the latter was to be had, and he provided us with 
 one for the modest sum of three roubles — nint; 
 shillings. It was labelled " Barclay Percins " — 
 evidently a fabrication, as the " Perkins" was mis- 
 spelt ; and of course it was undrinkable. 
 
 When we woke on the morning of the 9th and 
 daylight appeared we found that we were all 
 covered with frost. Our sledge looked like a 
 cave, with large stalactites hanging from the roof. 
 Horses and everything looked frosty and cold ; so 
 stopping at a large village named Alzamayskaya, 
 we thawed and breakfasted. This was ninety-four 
 versts from Nijni Udinsk. 
 
 We found from the experience we had already 
 gained that the best method of travelling was to 
 have the horses changed at each post station, with 
 as small delay as possible, and to take our meals 
 with all despatch. After a few days' travelling in 
 a sledge in Siberia in the middle of winter a most 
 intense longing possesses the traveller to get out of 
 that part of the globe as fast as possible. 
 
302 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 People who have never made such a journey, 
 and consequently know nothing whatever about it, 
 are accustomed to descant, on the delights of 
 sledging. They say nothing can be more delightful 
 than gliding over a smooth even surface, so imper- 
 ceptibly as hardly to know that you are moving. 
 I can only recommend them to try it. Thirty to 
 forty days and nights' continual travelling, fingers 
 and toes always on the point of becoming frozen, 
 ears and nose constantly dead, having to wrap 
 up so as to become so unwieldy as to resemble the 
 elegant movements of an elephant ; besides, the 
 roads, far from being smooth, in some places full of 
 holes and deep ruts ! Let them try this delightful 
 journey, and I think they will never descant again 
 so enthusiastically on the subject. I am persuaded, 
 had any one run up against me, dressed as I was, 
 I should have gone over, and never have been 
 able to rise again without assistance. My costume 
 consisted of numberless underclothes, a very thick 
 fur coat, a huge deerskin, which always took me 
 five minutes to get into, and then left me in a 
 perfect state of exhaustion ; three pairs of variously 
 made stockings, and over them a huge pair of felt 
 boots, resembling the famous seven-league boots of 
 the fairy tale. I once wanted to cross my legs, 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 303 
 
 and had to ask my friend Mr. Walcott to do it for 
 me, wliicli he did with some difficulty, uncrossing 
 them again for me afterwards. A thick sort of 
 mittens Hned with fur, which make it impossible to 
 take hold of anything ; a fur cap right over my 
 eyes, and a huge comforter over the chin and 
 nose. In this costume I felt stifled, it is true, but 
 had I been lighter clad I should have been frozen. 
 
 Continuing our route, up hill and down dale, 
 through woods and forests, the thermometer 20° 
 below zero, the sky clear, and with splendid 
 weather, after a quick day's work, the roads being 
 in capital order, we reached the station of Polorino 
 Tcheremhovskaya, a long name for a small village, 
 at 5.30 P.M., where we dined, and I think we all 
 felt we never enjoyed a meal better. We had 
 eaten nothing since the morning, and Siberian air 
 intensified our appetite. 
 
 Proceeding on through the night, stopping at 
 various stations, we reached the town of Ka-insk 
 on the loth at 8 a.m. It is a small town, situated 
 on the River Kan, which we had first to cross on 
 the ice. It is 303 versts from Nijni Udinsk. The 
 population is about 2300 inhabitants. 
 
 "We had been in a continual descent all the night 
 — Ka-insk being situated in a valley. We passed 
 
304 A LAND JOURNEY rEOM 
 
 also during that time numerous long trains of 
 sledges laden with merchandise, which bumped up 
 against us in a most unpleasant manner. These 
 trains we henceforth met the whole way, and were 
 a constant source of annoyance and delay to us. 
 
 Captain , who spoke Grerman with us, quite 
 
 agreed to the fact that they were verfluchter 
 schlitten. We must have passed, before reaching 
 Nijni Novgorod, thousands of these sledges. We 
 could not help thinking what a country for a rail- 
 way, considering the enormous traflSc. It would 
 no doubt much upset the calculations of those 
 interested in the Suez Canal ; and it certainly is 
 curious that Russia does not avail herself of what 
 would be the shortest and most easy route to 
 China. 
 
 We left Ka-insk again at 11.20 a.m., and pro- 
 ceeded over a very hilly country, and saw on the 
 way, which was only thinly wooded, prints of 
 animals' footsteps, evidently wolves. 
 
 After a drive of twenty-five versts, much an- 
 noyed by the large trains of sledges which we met, 
 we reached Bolchionrinskaya at 1.30 p.m., and here 
 found to our great disgust that our friend the 
 Captain, who managed to leave something behind 
 him at every station, having left his watch at one 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 305 
 
 and purse at another, had left his paderoshne at 
 Ka-insk, so we had to send back for it and wait 
 about three hours, as we could not procure horses 
 without it. It would be a very awkward affair for 
 any traveller to lose his paderoshne, as it would be 
 impossible to get on without it. 
 
 Leaving again about 4 p.m. we passed over 
 several high hills which much impeded our pro- 
 gress. Here we found it necessary to increase our 
 offers of drinking money to thirty kopecks. Our 
 plan was always at starting to offer to the driver, 
 according to the distance, a certain sum if he 
 reached the next station at a given time, and 
 although by so doing one runs the risk of a broken 
 neck it ensures speed. The horses generally gallop 
 away, the driver having very little power over 
 them as there are only two outside reins, the five 
 horses being harnessed abreast. 
 
 The animals were generally good, but not so 
 excellent as I had heard them described. Never- 
 theless we sometimes travelled fifteen miles in One 
 hour. 
 
 The roads were becoming bad as we advanced, 
 as the commercial traffic was in full swing and the 
 heavy sledges laden with merchandise destroyed 
 
 the roads. 
 
 X 
 
306 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 About a month later they become so bad as to 
 be nearly impracticable for light sledges to pass 
 over ; they are then renewed by the various 
 villages and towns by the use of forced labour. 
 January is generally the coldest month in Siberia. 
 
 At one of the stations we found some tolerable 
 Russian spirit made from corn, so we laid in a 
 small stock. It was awfully strong, but no doubt 
 the Siberians need it to neutralise the quantity of 
 fat they eat. 
 
 We had to go over a very rough bit of road, 
 which jolted us about most awfully, and very 
 much weakened the top of our sledge. 
 
 At times, when we were going full speed we 
 would come to a rut a foot or two deep. Bump 
 goes the sledge, with such a force as to make every 
 bone in one's body ache. We used to look ahead 
 for these ruts, so as to be prepared for them. We 
 invariably found one at the bottom of a hill. The 
 Captain, who was talking on one occasion, not 
 being aware of our approaching one of them, 
 nearly bit his tongue out. I must say, looking 
 forward to the journey we had still before us, and 
 hearing that as we advanced the roads would 
 become worse, Mr. Walcott and myself did heartily 
 wish ourselves at Moscow. The Captain, whom 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 307 
 
 long experience in sledge travelling in Siberia had 
 made indifferent to the most violent bumps and 
 dangers of being capsized, generally slept between 
 the various post stations and did not seem at 
 all inconvenienced. How we used to envy his 
 capacity for sleeping ! 
 
 We only arrived at Kloutchevskaya at 8.30 p.m. 
 — distance twenty-two versts. Travelling over a 
 better road at night, we reached, at 8 a.m., 133 
 versts from Bolcheourinskaya, the small station of 
 Kouskounskaya. We were delayed during the 
 night for one hour at one of the stations as we 
 were all asleep, and one of us awoke to find our 
 sledge standing in the street without horses and 
 no one near. 
 
 Passing through Bothoyskaya, over the most 
 execrable roads, the snow having drifted, the 
 roads being much exposed to the wind, which was 
 blowing rather too strong to be pleasaat, we 
 reached Krasnoyarsk, having gone some eight 
 versts on the River Yenisee which was entirely 
 frozen, and over which our little horses took us at 
 tremendous speed. The distance from Irkoutsk is 
 1006 versts, one quarter of the way to Nijni 
 Novgorod. The Yenisee is a magnificent river, 
 about 3000 miles long — I believe the longest 
 
 X 2 
 
308 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 known river in the world. It rises somewliere 
 near the Taugnon Mountains, not very far from 
 Kiachta, and falls into the Frozen Ocean. 
 
 The town of Krasnoyarsk, though small, is very 
 clean and well-built, and has some handsome 
 buildings in it ; it is most beautifully situated in 
 the Yenisee province, the governor of which 
 resides there. The meaning of the word Kras- 
 noyarsk is, " well-situated "■ — a most appropriate 
 name for the town. "We had a good dinner there, 
 and replenished our stores; it was a welcome 
 break in our journey, and gave us new vigour to 
 proceed. 
 
 However, we did not delay long there, as al- 
 though we should have much liked to have passed 
 a night out of our sledge, still we wanted more to 
 get on as fast as possible, so we left again at 
 4 P.M. We had our sledge, which sadly needed it, 
 repaired. 
 
 We reached Kalokemzongskaya — fifty-seven 
 versts from the last town — at 9 p.m., and then 
 went steadily on to Atchinsk — 108 versts further 
 on, which place we reached at 9 a.m. of the 
 12th, having made the last twelve miles in fifty 
 minutes. 
 
 Atchinsk is the last town in Eastern Siberia. It 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 309 
 
 is only a small place, and famous for nothing that 
 I could find out except a very capital post station, 
 where we made a good breakfast. 
 
 "We only stayed there for half an hour, and 
 jogged on again over better roads to Bogotolskaya, 
 making the last thirty versts in one hour and 
 twenty-five minutes — truly a tremendous pace ! 
 
 We here learnt, by an incident that happened 
 on the way, that there are other privileges attached 
 to the two-stamp pass than those I have already 
 enumerated. 
 
 . A sledge was ahead of us with merchants in it, 
 who of course only had one stamp ; our driver 
 called upon them to let us pass, which they were 
 obliged to do, and they were not able to pass us 
 again even if their horses were faster. Of course 
 by this means we always secured the best horses 
 at the various stations. 
 
 During the whole day we made good progress, 
 arriving at Thraginskaya, 247 versts from Kras- 
 noyarsk, at 4 P.M. On the 13 th we made Beri- 
 koubskaya, at 7 a.m., after a good night's journey, 
 and at nine o'clock we reached Potehitanskaya, 
 having made 130 versts since nine last evening. 
 It was bitterly cold, colder than we had ever felt 
 it, and I think , we all, including the Captain, 
 
310 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 felt thoroughly miserable and done up, and longed 
 for the end of the journey. 
 
 Our sledge on one occasion nearly tipped over, 
 which did not add to our happiness. In the com- 
 plaint-book, which one finds at all the stations, I 
 found the following complaint recorded at the 
 last-named station : 
 
 " A traveller having finished his tea, and having 
 halted for half an hour, found, on going outside to 
 see why he was so long delayed, that his old horses 
 were still unharnessed. In a great rage he ap- 
 proached the coachman and demanded the reason. 
 'Don't put yourself in a fuss,' said the Tartar 
 Jehu, ' you only cut a small figure in the world, 
 so you can afford to wait.' " 
 
 No doubt the complaining traveller had given 
 a very small drink-money, and suffered for his 
 ill-placed economy accordingly. 
 
 A very smooth roaJ through dense woods 
 again brought us to Koljanskaya, and there we 
 actually found the postmaster was going to feed — 
 an operation we thought they never performed as 
 we had never caught them at it — and, for a con- 
 sideration, we shared some remarkably large and 
 greasy cotelettes, which were like manna in the 
 desert to us. A peculiar sort of cucumber, soaked 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 311 
 
 in lamp-oil, we could not stomach ; we did take a 
 small piece to try, and the effects nearly left us as 
 empty as we were before. Our friend the Captain, 
 and host, the postmaster, thought us very squeamish, 
 and devoured a double share accordingly. 
 
 Passing over a very bad road for some way, and 
 then over a better one, we made a rapid run, .and 
 reached the town of Tomsk in the evening of 
 the 13th. 
 
 Tomsk is 1561 versts from Irkoutsk, We felt 
 glad to get there, and we put up at the only hotel 
 in the place, and a most miserable one it was. It 
 was a long time before we could even get any 
 food. They had no bill of fare, like an ordinary 
 hotel, and no wine, so we had to send out for 
 some, which, as it was late, we procured with some 
 difficulty, and after a great deal of trouble we in- 
 duced the owner of the hotel, who seemed perfectly 
 indifferent to our being there or not, to get us 
 some of the inevitable cutlets. 
 
 The hotel was a barrack of a place, with no sort 
 of regulation or cleanliness. The attendance con- 
 sisted of two very dirty housemaids. The com- 
 pany, who were playing cards in an adjoining, 
 room to where we were, taking what supper they 
 could get, certainly did not seem select. One 
 
312 A LAND JODENEY FEOM 
 
 enormously fat old woman seemed to be the 
 greatest authority amongst them. To call such 
 a slovenly establishment a hotel certainly was 
 paying it a compliment; however we were all 
 glad to turn in afterwards into a small room, in 
 which there were three sofas, and, well covered 
 with wraps, we got a good sound sleep until the 
 morning, which we much needed. 
 
 Finding that there were no post-horses available 
 we had to hire private ones, for which of course 
 we had to pay three times as much, and then, 
 when we were ready, we discovered that our 
 sledge was broken and wanted rei^airing. 
 
 I forgot to mention that at Atchinsk we had 
 sold our old sledge for five roubles, as it had 
 become nothing but a bundle of ropes and bits of 
 wood and we expected to see it tumble to pieces, 
 and had purchased a very good new one for thirty 
 roubles. However, it was a bad turn-out, wanting 
 repairs already ; but it is a wonder how any sledges 
 last at all, considering the roads they have to pass 
 over. While the sledge is repairing I will give 
 a few words regarding Tomsk, 
 
 It is considered one of the coldest towns in 
 Siberia. Whilst we were there it was tremendous ; 
 a strong wind blowing, no sun, and a regular black 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 813 
 
 cold, the thermometer showing 70° to- 80° of frost. 
 Hardly any one could be seen in the streets, the 
 inhabitants seldom venturing out. 
 
 It certainly is not an interesting town, and in 
 the winter it is full of gold-diggers out of employ, 
 who do not add to its respectability. 
 
 It is a large commercial town, containing about 
 20,000 inhabitants, including 300 Poles. It is a 
 transit town, and also a free town. It is situated 
 on the river Tom, a branch of the river Ob, which 
 rises in the AUatan Mountains and flows into the 
 Frozen Ocean. "We got some new felt boots there 
 and laid in a supply of wine, &c. 
 
 At 2.30 P.M., repairs being completed and having 
 rearranged our sledge, which was more comfortable 
 accordingly, we started off again, and made Pros- 
 cacova, seventy-three versts, at 6.30 p.m. The 
 first forty versts the road were very bad, but the 
 latter portion made up for it, being in splendid 
 order, and we sped along over its smooth surface 
 at fully fifteen miles per hour. The country there 
 changes very much and becomes flat and unin- 
 teresting, and very few trees — a sign that we were 
 approaching the steppe of Baraba, which is nearly 
 as much a desert as that of Gobi, only more 
 inhabited and fertile. " 
 
314 A LAND JOUENET FROM 
 
 We reached the small town of Kolyvrane on the 
 15th, at 9 P.M.; 216 versts, since 12 a.m. yesterday. 
 It is only a small town, of no importance, con- 
 taining about 2000 inhabitants. The roads were 
 all good, and the cold was not so intense as it had 
 been. I think if it had lasted we should have 
 had some difficulty in existing, for, without any 
 exaggeration, we were very nearly frozen. 
 
 A very curious outbreak occurred amongst the 
 peasantry situated in some of the villages near 
 Koly vrane a short time before we passed through it. 
 A man who professed to have written authority 
 from the Emperor came and told them that a 
 special decree had been passed in their favour, 
 excusing them from ever paying any more taxes. 
 As the peasantry are entirely ignorant of the 
 accomplishments of reading and writing they 
 rejoiced excessively and fully believed him. 
 
 When the government tax-gatherer came among 
 them and demanded the usual taxes they all re- 
 fused, saying that the Emperor had let them off. 
 It was useless to remonstrate and try to prove 
 the absurdity of the thing. 
 
 The governor of Tomsk then sent to them, but 
 as they believed he only wanted the taxes for his 
 own use, the Emperor having freed them from 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 315 
 
 paying them, they broke out into open rebeUion. 
 Troops were sent and had to shoot some of these 
 unfortunate deluded peasantry, and quiet was again 
 restored. Whether the author of the whole dis- 
 turbance was caught I did not hear. I hope he 
 was, and well punished. 
 
 I could not help thinking of the agitations and 
 strikes that have occurred in England, generally 
 brought on in a similar manner by the visit of 
 some scheming villain who has nothing to lose, 
 intruding his hypocritical presence among a body 
 of men who, until he had whispered his lies 
 among them, never dreamt that they were, not 
 happy before, and as well off as they ought 
 to be. 
 
 We cannot condemn the poor ignorant peasantry 
 of Siberia for being so easily deluded, when 
 Englishmen allow themselves to be influenced by 
 the leading of some knave or other who has no 
 interest in their welfare^ but only works for his 
 own ends. 
 
 We had long been looking forward to the steppe 
 of Baraba, dreaded by every traveller in the winter 
 months — everywhere we had passed through the 
 horrors of the steppes had been impressed upon 
 us — and it was with no pleasant impressions that 
 
.^16 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 we at last entered its precincts, two stations from 
 Kolyvrane, at a place called Krouthialoga. 
 
 Our happiness certainly was not enhanced by 
 the fact of a tremendously bitter north-east wind 
 blowing, driving clouds of snow before it, and so 
 dense as nearly to render it impossible to proceed. 
 
 One must visit the Baraba to see a similar snow- 
 storm. The natives call such a tempest a hm-um, 
 and it sometimes lasts for a week at a time. How 
 dismal we felt, and how we shivered, chilled to the 
 very bone ! The only redeeming point was that the 
 horses, being nearly wild, took us at a tremendous 
 pace. Although I must say, from all I had heard 
 of the magnificence of the Tartar horses found on 
 the steppes, I was very much disappointed. 
 
 As we proceeded the trees became very scarce, 
 and we could nearly fancy ourselves back again in 
 the great desert of Gobi. The snow, which was 
 falling thicker and thicker and rendering us more 
 and more miserable, made the roads so heavy that 
 it became difficult for our five half-wild horses to 
 lug the sledge through the heavy drifts. 
 
 There are no natural methods of showing the 
 ■whereabouts of the roads, so the natives have 
 resorted to a very ingenious method. They place 
 at intervals at each side of the road small stacks of 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 317 
 
 straw, which catch the snow and form small hills, 
 which serve as marks to indicate the route. With- 
 out this it would be the easiest possible thing to be 
 lost on the steppe, and from all I saw, the un- 
 fortunate occupants of a sledge, who, caught in 
 one of these snow-storms, wandered from the route, 
 most probably would not be heard of again before 
 summer heat should dissolve the snow and expose 
 their remains to view. 
 
 Although we did feel excessively gloomy still 
 we had one consolation, and that was, that every 
 verst took one off the 900 or more that we had to 
 accomplish before leaving the steppe. 
 
 After a great deal of floundering about and vast 
 exertion on the part of our quadrupeds, we arrived 
 at Kolmacova on the 15th. Here we were in- 
 formed that by taking another route, and avoiding 
 Tumen, we could shorten our journey by 300 
 versts, which of course was most gratifying intelli- 
 gence to us ; but we afterwards found out it was 
 all a dodge to get us out of the government road, 
 so that we should be forced to take private post- 
 horses, which with few exceptions were not as 
 good as those we always obtained at the govern- 
 ment post stations. However, we swallowed the 
 bait, and exceedingly repented of having done so 
 
318 A LAND JOUENET FROM 
 
 later on. For all the peasants' houses we stopped 
 at whilst horses were changed were disgusting 
 and dirty, and every dodge was resorted to to 
 delay us and fleece us, and we felt quite helpless 
 under the process. 
 
 At one place we stopped at we were entertained 
 by perhaps the most villainous-lookin,g family that 
 a man might wish to see. I shall never forget the 
 paterfamilias of the establishment, who told us he 
 was a discharged soldier, and attempted to be 
 amiable, in a cut-throat sort of manner, grinning 
 most diabolically all the time ; his attempts at 
 familiarity, as far as we were concerned, were 
 a failure. I could not help shuddering at the 
 thought, what a poor chance we should have stood 
 if travelling singly, and I could not help wonder- 
 ing how many dead bodies of unfortunate travellers 
 were buried in his garden. The whole place looked 
 like murder. It was the only time during our 
 journey" that I think we really did feel a sense of 
 real fear ; but we took good care not to show it. 
 
 When we left, our cut-throat looking host pre- 
 sented us with a small account for a few potatoes 
 he had supplied us with, his wife, who looked as 
 bad as himself, quietly working, one could have 
 imagined, at our shrouds. Of course it was exorbi- 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 319 
 
 tant, but what could we do but pay it? — as the 
 whole village I have no doubt would have gone 
 against us, and I am sure we felt glad to be off at 
 any price. 
 
 Never did the open air feel so fresh and welcome 
 to me as it did then, after the stinking close room 
 we had left, and its occupants. After this adven- 
 ture we decided to regain the government roads as 
 soon as we could, although they might be longer. 
 
 As I have before stated, we were deceived 
 entirely about them ; I think the whole difference 
 was about forty or fifty versts. The villages all 
 through the steppe look poor, and the natives 
 certainly are not prepossessing. They do not com- 
 pare with those of Eastern Siberia. From what I 
 saw I think it was a matter of congratulation to 
 get across it without mishap. 
 
320 A LAND JOUENET FROM 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 A Collision with another Sledge— The Country of Windmills— The 
 Telegraph Wires broken by the Snow— Disgusting Condition of 
 the Peasant Post-houses— Wolyes — The River Irtish — We quit 
 -the Steppe of Baraba — Abstemiousness and Trustworthiness of 
 Russian Drivers — Besroucova— Our Driver nearly takes us over a 
 Bank — Our Russian Fellow-traveller leaves everything behind 
 him — A splendid Sunset — The Country begins to improve — A 
 Sable in view — We reach the Top of the Pass of the Oural 
 Mountains — The plain white Stone that marks the Separation 
 between Asia and Europe — We arrive at Nijni Novgorod, and 
 bid farewell to our Sledges, and proceed by Rail to Moscow, and 
 thence on to St. Petersburg. 
 
 At five o'clock on the 16tli we reached the town of 
 Khainsk, a small and uninteresting place, so we 
 got on at once, and thank goodness the fury of the 
 borum was exhausted and it was not half so cold. 
 The roads were in good order, the fresh snow 
 being already quite hard. We were going at full 
 speed, when crash, bump, we smashed into a cart. 
 Away went the door of our sledge and a good, part 
 of the top, and for a moment we thought the whole 
 top part was going. We did not, however, wait to 
 ascertain the extent of the damage done, for the 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 321 
 
 very simple reason that our steeds would not stop, 
 their method being to pull up only at the next 
 station. 
 
 During the last twenty-four hours we had made 
 250 versts, nearly ten miles an hour, which we 
 considered rather good travelling, and considering- 
 stopping to change horses every hour and a half, 
 could hardly have been excelled. 
 
 The desert there becomes very barren and thinly 
 inhabited. What a country it would have been for 
 Don Quixote ! — for anything like the quantity of 
 windmills I never saw before. Every village pos- 
 sesses two or three, and such antiquated arrange- 
 ments can scarcely be imagined. In one village, 
 or rather outside it, we counted thirty-three wind- 
 mills, all in a row. Whatever they could be wanted 
 for I cannot conceive. 
 
 I remember that village so well because we 
 started from it early in the morning and somehow 
 or other, by the extraordinary way the road is 
 marked out, we seemed to be continually finding 
 ourselves either on the north, south, east, or west 
 side of these thirty-three windmills. We tried to 
 account for the phenomenon, but as we could not 
 we gave it up. 
 
 A most extraordinary feature that we noticed 
 
 T 
 
322 A LAND JOUENEY TEOM 
 
 all through Siberia was, that the telegraph posts 
 from Kiachta to Russia Proper were planted in 
 the most extraordinary places, generally extending 
 over five miles where three would have been 
 enough. Whether this was a job on the part 
 of the contractor, which I shrewdly suspect, or 
 there were reasons too deep for us to fathom, 
 we certainly could not but feel mystified and full 
 of wonder. 
 
 One thing certainly did impress us as being 
 excessively useful : every post had its number and 
 date — a necessary precaution, as they have to be 
 renewed after the damage caused to them by the 
 furious storms which occur. No wonder telegra- 
 phic communication sometimes is interrupted in the 
 winter ; for when we passed the wires were literally 
 bent to the earth by the weight of frozen snow 
 upon them, and in many places had given way. I 
 should think that small stations at intervals, during 
 the winter months, with a couple of men in each to 
 look after the wires, would well repay the trouble. 
 
 I know we reported a broken wire at one of the 
 post stations, and we were told that as they had no 
 communication at the station we had better let it 
 be known at a town some 200 versts farther on. 
 No doubt telegrams suffered delay accordingly. 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 323 
 
 We reached Kamichova at 7 a.m. on the 17th. (I 
 may here mention that the sun rose at 10 and set 
 at 1.30.) This is sometimes called the commence- 
 ment of the Baraba ; but why I do not know, as 
 there are no distinctive features to justify it. 
 
 Here we struck into what is called the New 
 Eoute, and for the time the crown posts also end, 
 so that we were driven to use the private posts, 
 which however are tolerably well organised by a 
 company under a crown charter. 
 
 We breakfasted at Kamichova, at a peasant's 
 hut, and although I was very hungry when we 
 arrived there my appetite entirely forsook me, for 
 we had to pass through a room where the whole 
 family, male and female, were sleeping. There 
 was no ventilation of any sort, and a huge stove, 
 sending volumes of dry heat forth, created a most 
 unpleasant atmosphere although it was intensely 
 cold. Mr. Walcott and myself made a precipitate 
 escape into the open air again, and remained in 
 our sledge until we departed, satisfying ourselves 
 with a few biscuits. Our Russian friend however 
 enjoyed his breakfast — I suppose being inured to 
 that sort of thing-r-and laughed at us consider- 
 ably for our squeamishness. Certainly it may be 
 imagined, after the inconveniences we had put up 
 
3'2i A LAND JOURNEY FROM 
 
 with during the whole journey, that we would 
 have become accustomed to such trifles; but I 
 am sorry to say we never were able, with any 
 degree of comfort or pleasure, to enter a peasant's 
 house or post station in Siberia, for the reasons 
 mentioned above. 
 
 In four hours after leaving the last station, over 
 a good road, the distance being fifty-six vel"sts, we 
 reached Raisino. 
 
 All the villages we passed through at this stage 
 of our journey were fenced round with strong 
 wooden palisades, there being a gate at each end. 
 The reason for this we never learnt. They may 
 have been constructed to keep out the wolves 
 in winter. 
 
 We were entertained at the various places we 
 stopped at with the most dismal prints of travel- 
 lers being attacked, devoured, and hard beset by 
 wolves. We always inquired if these animals had 
 become troublesome, and were glad to be told that 
 their larders had not yet required to be replenished, 
 although there were plenty on the road ; of which 
 fact we had good proof, as we saw plenty of them, 
 and good large animals they were. 
 
 Fifty-nine versts farther on we reached Pou- 
 stinskaya, near the banks of the great river Irtish. 
 
ASIA TO BUEOPE. 325 
 
 It is famous among tlie natives for an event which 
 took place in the year 1600. 
 
 Yermac, a celebrated Cossack chief, renowned 
 for his mighty deeds and prowess in battle, with 
 a few followers, had overrun Siberia, and taken 
 from the Mongol Emperor Camuc a large portion 
 of his territory in these parts. Camuc, who had 
 collected the whole flower of his army, and had 
 vainly pursued Termac, at last came upon him at 
 this village, having an overwhelming force at his 
 disposal. After a severe battle, Yermac's army, 
 consisting only of some 400 to 500 Cossacks, was 
 defeated. Seeing all was lost, Yermac, with only 
 two followers, rode furiously down the steep banks 
 of the Irtish, and attempted to cross its rapidly 
 flowing waters, but, being clad in armour, they 
 were drowned ; and thus perished one of the 
 greatest warrior bandits of the time. , This was 
 the anecdote told us, but I cannot vouch for its 
 authenticity. 
 
 The Irtish is the second longest river in Siberia. 
 It rises in Tartary, and flows into the Frozen Ocean. 
 It is a curious thing, finding this river there, as it 
 divides two flat plains, the one we left being much 
 higher than the plain on the other side. We had 
 to descend a very steep bank, I should think 
 
3'26 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 200 or 300 feet, before we reached the frozen 
 river. 
 
 From lack of all indications we should never 
 have guessed that a large river was before us, so 
 sudden was our approach to it and so unexpected. 
 
 On the opposite side, some eighteen versts from 
 the last station, is situated a village or small town 
 called Mogilnaya, meaning " burial-place." It was 
 there that Yermac first encountered Camuc, some 
 time before his final defeat, and routed him with 
 great slaughter. 
 
 At 2.30 A.M., on the 18th, eighty-one versts from 
 Mogilnaya, we reached Angala. The thermometer 
 being only as low as zero, 32° of frost, with all our 
 wraps, &c., we felt unpleasantly warm. 
 
 The country here, although still flat, begins to 
 show indications of quitting the desert or steppe 
 of Baraba. We could distinguish on our right- 
 hand side a ridge of cliffs and a few trees here 
 and there. The villages also became more plen- 
 tiful, but very poor, and we were bothered with 
 beggars, the first we had seen in Siberia. Although 
 this was unpleasant it told us we were approaching 
 nearer to Russia Proper. Passing several stations 
 we reached Thoukalinsk, a small town where the 
 steppes may be said to finish, and much to our 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 327 
 
 delight. Before leaving the steppe of Baraba I 
 must contradict a fiction which all travellers seem 
 to have imbibed, or perhaps imagined, respecting 
 it. We had heard that all the horses in the Baraba 
 were wild, in fact required four or five men to 
 hold them at each station ; that immediately they 
 were released they started off at full gallop, going 
 some eighteen miles an hour ; that nothing would 
 stop them, until they arrived at the next station. 
 
 I used to feel rather a dread of these wild horses 
 of the Baraba before I saw them, imagining all 
 manner of upsets, &c., but I found it was only 
 a fiction, as we certainly travelled through the 
 Baraba slower than in any other part. We used 
 to annoy our kind Russian friend very much by 
 asking when we were to meet these fiery steeds, 
 as he was also much imbued with the idea of their 
 existing somev>'here about. Of course at times we 
 did meet with half-wild animals, but seldom whilst 
 traversing the Baraba. 
 
 We avoided Omsk, thus shortening our journey, 
 according to native account, by sixty-foui- versts, 
 and by our own reckoning by only thirty-nine 
 versts. The natives are, I should say, profoundly 
 ignorant of reckoning distances, as even at the 
 post stations they were often wiong. 
 
328 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 About five miles before reaching Thoukalinsk 
 we entered the government post roads again, and 
 although they were in a very rough condition we 
 were glad, as the peasant posts are not good, and 
 are not so rapid in changing horses. I would ' 
 strongly advise the traveller to stick to the ordi- 
 nary post routes, although the distance may be 
 longer, as I do not believe it takes more time. 
 
 At this small town we noticed that some of the 
 houses were made of brick — the first we had seen 
 in Siberia. 
 
 Another fiction we had been told before starting, 
 and indeed had read in books, was that we 
 should find all the yemschiks, or drivers, drunk- 
 ards. I can affirm that we found them all most 
 abstemious, civil, and obliging. I do not remem- 
 ber ever finding one of our drivers drunk, or 
 approaching to it. For civility and sobriety they 
 set a bright example to the drivers of the four- 
 wheeled cabs in the civilised city of London. 
 
 When I make the above statement I do so on 
 the fact that we had at various times 180 different 
 drivers, whilst on our journey through Siberia, and 
 900 horses. 
 
 Our route now took us to Krouthaya, a small 
 village forty-eight versts from- Thoukalinsk. We 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 329 
 
 proceeded at a rapid pace, passing several stations 
 and changing at each one as usual ; the road being 
 very smooth and slanting our sledge insisted upon 
 going forward sideways, which was pleasant as a 
 change , but rather dangerous. At Khamichenna, 
 where we intended getting something to eat, we 
 were disappointed, as the post people could give 
 us none, and we were out of provisions ourselves. 
 After leaving we crossed the River- Ichim, which 
 flows into the Irtish that side of Abatsky. Bowling 
 along at a tremendous pace, at times on the point 
 of capsizing, a bright moon shining as clear as 
 daylight, the thermometer a few degrees below 
 zero, passing through several villages, very poor 
 in appearance but mostly built of brick, we made 
 Besroucova at 6 a.m. on the 19th, and precious 
 glad we were to arrive, as we had eaten nothing 
 since the morning before, and the pace we had 
 been driving over ruts and hillocks had nearly 
 broken our bones. Our Russian friend however 
 seemed to like it. 
 
 Once during the night one of our drivers, going 
 at a tremendous pace, as near as possible took us 
 over a bank, and we should most decidedly have 
 been killed, as we could see a yawning chasm 
 ready to I'eceive us. I certainly would not advise 
 
330 A LAND JOURNEY FEOM 
 
 a nervous individual to go sledging in Siberia, 
 as it really places the traveller in a constant state 
 of excitement, I used to wonder how our sledge 
 could stand it — the fearful jolts it sometimes got 
 and communicated to us. I must say I did now 
 and then heartily wish myself at the end of the 
 journey, as I scarcely expected to arrive at its 
 conclusion without some mishap. The roads get 
 very bad at that period of the year, and at times 
 heavy falls of snow render them perfectly im- 
 passable. 
 
 "We managed at a peasant's house to get some 
 breakfast, and there our Russian friend discovered 
 that he had left his purse and watch at one of the 
 stations where we had changed horses during the 
 night. I verily believe when we reached Moscow 
 he had left everything he had at different stations. 
 A memorandum book of mine, his own military 
 cap, which he would insist upon wearing at times 
 until the cold made him change to his fur cap 
 again, pencil-case, knives — all managed to slip 
 through his fingers. We always used to ask him 
 if he had left anything behind him, when we, were 
 not asleep. 
 
 1 shall never forget a sunset we saw in the 
 afternoon. People who have never seen such a 
 
ASIA TO EUEOPE. 331 
 
 one cannot imagine it. A painter, if he conld 
 paint such a picture, would not be beUeved. The 
 ground, covered with snow, gradually becoming 
 blood red ; the sun sinking behind a mass of 
 clouds, which lightened up into most wonderful 
 colours and forms ; in the horizon a clear space 
 which looked like a bright and glorious city, such 
 as we could imagine heaven to be. Even our 
 stolid Russian friend was enthusiastic, as minarets, 
 towers, gates, distinctly came into view, and dying 
 out, gave place to other shapes. It certainly was 
 a glimpse into eternity, and a vague yearning 
 came over me to be there and find that rest which 
 is not attained here on earth. 
 
 As we proceeded we were much annoyed by 
 beggars, and the villages became poorer, and af- 
 forded no signs of prosperity — a great contrast 
 to Eastern Siberia. But the country improves 
 in appearance and loses its desert-like air ; it 
 is less flat and is thickly wooded, and affords 
 good cover for animals of prey. We saw several 
 pure white pheasants and some very splendidly 
 plumaged jays. Birch trees are decidedly more 
 plentiful than others, though farther on pines take 
 their place. We continued to pass long transports 
 laden with merchandise, and the continual bumps 
 
382 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM 
 
 we encountered neither improved our sledge nor 
 our tempers. 
 
 When we reached Yagayskaya we found out that 
 at the last station we had not been to the regular 
 post station, our driver having told us a lie and 
 taken us to a peasant's house — and a villainous 
 place it was, as well as its owner. This is a 
 regular dodge, and we only discovered it when 
 we were driven into a peasant's place again, and 
 we insisted upon being at once taken to the proper 
 post station, and made no end of a row, which 
 resulted in the yemschik being flogged and the 
 peasant fined. 
 
 We reached Tumen on the 20th, 49 3i versts 
 from Thoucalinsk, It is a small and flourishing 
 town, but as we were anxious now to get on 
 we made no stay, and proceeded with all speed 
 to Ekaterinburg, named after the Empress Cathe- 
 rine, which place we reached on the 21st. Eka- 
 terinburg is a fine town, and well worth seeing. 
 It contains some handsome buildings in stone, 
 but it was too cold for us to do much and we 
 were anxious to proceed, as we knew several 
 generals, &c., were not far behind us, and would 
 monopolise our horses if we gave them the start. 
 They never did catch us, as although they were 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 333 
 
 supposed to be travelling with all speed we must 
 have been travelling with more than all speed, as 
 we gradually shook them off. We left at 12 a.m. 
 on the 22nd, and had to take post sledges, sending 
 ours on in advance, the roads being very had. I 
 never went over such remarkable roads, through 
 forests, over ditches, bumping away against the 
 trees. I saw a sable — such a funny little animal, 
 something like a ferret. I believe it is the most 
 ferocious little animal known. It will fight to the 
 death with its own species, or if caught or attacked 
 will bite through leg, arm, or anything it can lay 
 hold of. 
 
 We had been gradually ascending the Oural 
 mountains, but it was so imperceptibly that we 
 hardly knew it. The pass across the Ourals extends 
 over 180 miles, so that the ascent would neces- 
 sarily be very gradual. At 4 p.m. we reached the 
 summit of the pass, and there we saw the plain 
 white stone, with Asia engraved on one side and 
 Europe on the other, which marks the frontier, 
 and happy did we feel to find ourselves at last 
 again in Europe. 
 
 We had intended celebrating the event by 
 drinking a bottl^ of champagne reserved for the 
 occasion, but as it was frozen to the very bottom 
 
334 A LAND JOUENEY FROM 
 
 we were unable to do so. At 5.30 p.m. we reached 
 Thatiza, the first village in Europe, and here we 
 again took our own sledge and made good way up 
 to Perm, 364|- versts from Ekatarinburg. At 
 Perm we laid in a stock of malachite and other 
 curiosities, which are very cheap indeed at that 
 town. We only paid about a fifth of what we were 
 asked for similar things in Moscow. From Perm 
 we took a billet which carried us on to the next 
 town, where it had to be renewed, and saves the 
 trouble of paying at each post station. 
 
 The scenery becomes very tame. The villages 
 large and poor, and the posting very bad ; in fact 
 that part of the journey is the worst, and of 
 course is felt more, as, the end of the journey being 
 near, every delay and annoyance seem to crop up 
 in order to prolong it. The cold was awful — 
 40° below zero — and our feet and hands suffered 
 very much. How intensely we longed to get to 
 Nijni Novgorod! 
 
 At Perm we were photographed in our sledge, 
 and at the same time nearly frozen. A large 
 quantity of government gold was telegraphed as 
 coming, so, luckily, we were requested to herald 
 it on the way, and order at gach station sixty 
 horses, which procured us a gold pass, ordering 
 
ASIA TO EUROPE. 335 
 
 all post masters to forward us with all expedi- 
 tion — a stroke of luck as unexpected as it was 
 welcome. 
 
 On the 29th we reached Kazan, celebrated for 
 its soap and leather and also for being a very 
 handsome little town ; and on the 30th, at 4 p.m., 
 we arrived at Nijni Novgorod, and bade farewell 
 to our sledge. We had some difficulty in finding a 
 hotel, as all were full, but at last we found one by 
 the celebrated market-place where the fair is held, 
 and I cannot say much for its accommodation. 
 The Yolga was frozen over, and the cold intense. 
 Two days were enough, so we proceeded by rail to 
 Moscow — very comfortable after the sledge, but 
 not much faster. At Moscow we tarried for 
 three days and then on to St. Petersburg — and 
 there ends my journey. I did not regret having 
 done it, as it was over ; but I do not think 
 anything would tempt me to follow the same 
 route again. Once in a lifetime is more than 
 sufficient. 
 
 As I read over the pages I have written I feel 
 they are woefully deficient as regards describing 
 the events, experiences, and hardships we under- 
 went. I have, however, done my best. I can 
 only wish that any of my readers could have been 
 
336 A LAND JOUENEY FEOM ASIA TO EUROPE. 
 
 with US — in spirit, not bodily, as I have no evil 
 wish against him or her — and I do really think 
 then they would agree that a journey from China 
 to St. Petersburg in the winter months is a 
 memorable undertaking worth relating. Javti 
 satis. 
 
 LOSIOX; I'ltlKTF.D liY WILLIAM CLOWES A\D EOSS, STAMFOIII) STREET 
 AKD CHARIKQ CItOSS. 
 
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 The Voyage Alone ; a Sail in the " Yawl, Rob Roy." By John 
 
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 ILD Life under the Equator. By Paul Du Chaillu, 
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 Stories of the Gorilla Country, 36 Illustrations. Price 6s. 
 
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 Cast Away in the Cold. An Old Man's Story of a Young Man's 
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 Also now ready. 
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List of Publications. 13 
 
 The Story of a Bad Boy — not a very Bad Boy, By Thomas 
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 Lost; or. What Came of a Slip from Honour Bright. By Rev. 
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 Our Salt and Fresh Water Tutors ; a Story of that Good Old 
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 The Fire Ships. A Story of the Days of Lord Cochrane. 5s. 
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 Jack Buntline : the Life of a Sailor Boy. 2s. 
 
 What are the Stars ? a Treatise on Astronomy for the Young. 
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 Phenomena and Laws of Heat : a Volume of Marvels of Science. 
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 Marvels of Optics. By F. Marion. Edited and Translated by C. W. 
 
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 Stories of the Great Prairie. Prom the Novels of J. P. Cooper. 
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 The Voyage of the Constance. By Mary Gillies. 3s. 6d. 
 The Swiss Family Robinson, and Sequel, In 1 vol. Bs. 6d. 
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14 Sampson Low and Oo.'s 
 
 Adventures on the Great Hunting-Grounds of the World. From 
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 " The book for all boys in whom the love of travel and adventure is 
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 Also, lately published, 
 Golden Hair; a Tale of the Pilgrim Fathers. By Sir Lascelles Wraxall. 
 
 3s. 6d, 
 Black Panther ; a Boy's Adventures amongst the Red Skins. By the 
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 Anecdotes of the Queen and Royal Family of England Collected, 
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 Geography for my Children. By Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. 
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 BBIiLBS LETTRES, FlCTIONj &c. 
 
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List of Publications, 15 
 
 Lorna Doone. A Romance of Exmoor. By R. D. Blackmore. 
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 Queer Little People. By the Author of " Uncle Tom's Cabin." 
 
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 The Little Foxes that Spoil the Grapes, Is. 
 
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 Silken Cords and Iron Fetters. By Maud Jeanne Franc. Small 
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 Marian ; or, the Light of Some One's Home. 
 Emily's Choice : an Australian Tale. os. 
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 Minnie's Mission, a Temperance Story, is. 
 
 Low's Minion Series of Popular Books. Is. each: — 
 The Gates Ajar. (The original English Edition.) 
 Who is He ? 
 The Little Preacher. 
 The Boy Missionary. 
 
16 Sampson Low and Qo.'s List of Publications, 
 
 The Story of Four Little Women: Meg, Joe, Beth, and Amy. 
 By Louisa M. Alcott. Both Series complete in 1 volume. 16mo, cloth, 
 gilt edges. 3s. M. 
 
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 An Old-fashioned Girl. By L. M. Alcott. 
 
 Helen Feltou's Question : a Book for Girls. By Agnes Wylde. 
 Faith Gartney's Girlhood, By Mrs. D. T. Whitney. Seventh thousand. 
 The Gayworthys. By the same Author. Third Edition. 
 A Summer in Leslie Goldthwaite's Life. By the sam.e Author, 
 The Masque at Ludlow. By the Author of " Mary Powell." 
 Miss Biddy Frobisher; a Salt Water Story. By the same Author. 
 Selvaggio; a Story of Italy. By the same Author. New Edition. 
 The Journal of a Waiting Gentlewoman. By a new Author. New Edition. 
 The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Two Tales of New England. 
 
 Tauchnitz's English Editions of German Authors. Each volume 
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 1. On the Heights. By B, Anerbach. 3 vols. 
 
 2. In the Year '13. By Fritz Renter. 1 vol. 
 - 3. Faust. By GJoethe. 1 vol. 
 
 4, Undine, and other Tales. By Fouque. 1 vol. 
 5 L'Arrabiata. By Paul Heyse. 1 vol. 
 
 6. The Princess, and other Tales. By Jleinrich Zschokke. 1vol. 
 
 7. Lessing's Nathan the Wise. 
 
 8. Hacklandei''s Behind the Counter, translated by Mary Howitt. 
 
 9. Three Tales. By W. HaufP. 
 
 10. Joachimr. Kamern* Diary of a PoorYoung Lady. By M.Nathusius. 
 H. Poems by Ferdinand Freiligrath. Edited by his daughter. 
 
 12. Gabriel. From the German of Paul Heyse. By Arthur Milman. 
 
 13. The Dead Lake, and other Tales. By P. Heyse. 
 
 14. Through Night to Light, by Gutzkow. 
 
 Low's Copyright Cheap Editions of American Authors, com- 
 prising Popular Works, reprinted by arrangement with their Authors : — 
 
 1. Haunted Hearts. By the Author of " The Lamplighter." 
 
 2. The Guardian Angel. By" The Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." 
 
 3. The Minister's Wooing. By the Author of '* Uncle Tom's Cabin." 
 
 4. Views Afoot. By Bayard Taylor. 
 
 5. Kathrina, Her Life and Mine. By J. G. Holland. 
 
 6. Hans Brinker ; or, Life in Holland. By Mrs. Dodge. 
 
 7. Men, Women, and Ghosts. By Miss Phelps, 
 
 8. Society and Solitude. By Ealph Walde Emerson. 
 
 9. Hedged In. By Elizabeth Phelps. 
 
 10. An Old-fashioned Girl. By Louisa M. Alcott. 
 Each volume complete in itself, price Is. Qd. enamelled flexible cover 
 2s. cloth. 
 
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