Out) r ni Id If CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 068 919 608 All books are subject to recall after two weeks Olin/Kroch Library DATE DUE NW*s ■«e^?W? ■w^ff? * K ^Jm GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.S.A. Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell ' s replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39. 48-1984. The production of this volume was supported by the National Endowment for the Humanities. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1994. Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31 92406891 9608 ($nrnell Hniuctatty IGibcary Dtljata, New fjutlt GEORGE FRANCIS ATKINSON BOTANICAL LIBRARY 1920 Tourists mag learn hou> much easier is the task of reaching the Great Forest than formerly, by consulting the follounng impor- tant article. j|HE Adirondack Division of the New York Cen- tral and Hudson River Railroad is the ideal route to the Great Wilderness of New York, and offers incomparable service to all the principal resorts of that delightful region. This Division is laid with 80 lb. steel rails, one-third heavier than those used on other roads, except the main line of the New York Central, and is therefore conducive to very safe running of trains. It has 3,000 ties to the mile, 400 more than used by other standard roads. The bridges are iron, of the solid- floor pattern, with one or two exceptions. Curves are avoided as far as practicable. Every device for the pro- motion of safety, which has to this time been invented and successfully tested, has been adopted. The passenger-coaches are of the most substantial char- acter, having easy-running and riding qualities found on but few of the railroads in this country. All coaches are furnished with patent Buffer and Gould automatic couplers, Westinghouse Air-brake and train-whistle signal, the old bell-cord being discarded. Locomotives of the best and most approved pattern, both for freight and passenger service, are provided with 11 ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. the newly patented smoke-consumer and spark-arrester. The passenger-stations are of neat design, and constructed with a degree of taste displayed by few other roads. The Adirondack Special leaves New York City about 7:30 p. m., dropping off sleeping cars at the prominent summer-resorts along the road, arriving at Malone at about 8:00 o'clock the following morning, carrying express matter, the evening mail and New York City evening papers. Through sleepers run from New York during the winter, carrying passengers for all of the Adirondack resorts, for Malone and for points beyond. Now that these great health and pleasure retreats are opened to the public and reached by a broad gauge road, built without regard to cost, through sleepers will eventually run daily from Bos- ton and Chicago into the Wilderness, in addition to the sleeper and parlor car service to and from New York City, and also from Montreal. Suitable hotels have been erected with capacity sufficient to provide for all of the Adiron- dack health and pleasure seekers. The Southern termini of the line are Herkimer and Utica. At the former point connection is made with the main line of New York Central & Hudson River R. R., and also via Mohawk with the West Shore R. R. At Utica, connection is made with all trains on the main line of the New York Central, also with the West Shore R. R., D. L. & W. R. R., N. Y., O. & W. Ry., and the R. W. & O. R. R. Through trains between the Adirondacks and New York will run via Utica. The Northern terminus is Malone, where connection is made with the Central Vermont R. R. ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACK^. Ill for Ogdensburg and Rouse's Point, and also with the St. Lawrence and Adirondack Railway (a portion of the through line) for Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec. Via this route steamer may be taken from Clark's Island for a trip through the most interesting portion of the Rapids of the River St. Lawrence to the city of Montreal. Close traffic arrangements exist with the Canada Atlantic, Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Railways. Starting from Herkimer, the West Canada Creek is fol- lowed through Middleville, Newport and Poland to Tren- ton Falls, where it is crossed on the longest, solid-floor, iron bridge in the world (350 ft. in length) which passes over the stream just above Mill-dam Falls; thence to Pros- pect, from which point a branch runs to Gang Mills or Hinckley. Hinckley will be the nearest railroad point to the head-waters of the West Canada Creek, Morehouse Lake, Wilmurt Lake, North and South Lakes, Honnedaga (or Jock's) Lake, Piseco Lake and Lake Pleasant. North of Prospect the next station is Remsen where con- nection is made with the Rome Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R. At this point through trains from Utica and New York reach the Adirondack Division. From Remsen the R. W. & O. line is paralleled for a short distance, then the new road branches off to the north-east to Honnedaga station, from which point Honnedaga Lake is most easily accessible. This is the station of the Adirondack League Club. After leaving Honnedaga the railroad passes through Forestport to White Lake, which will be the nearest railroad point to the Bisby and Woodhull Lakes. North IV ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. of White Lake station the railroad passes close to Otter Lake and crosses Moose River at McKeever station, about one mile south-west of the junction of the North and South branches of the river. The North Branch is then followed along the west side to "Arnold's Clearing," at which point Fulton Chain station is located. This depot is about 2 miles from the Old Forge House and Steamboat Landing. From the Steamboat Landing a steam-yacht may be taken for the head of Fourth Lake through the Fulton Chain. The Adirondack League Club House on Little Moose Lake is between three and four miles distant from Fulton Chain station, reached for the present via Old Forge, First Lake, and carry. At the head of Fourth Lake competent guides may be engaged to make the trip in row-boats through Fifth, Sixth, Seventh and Eighth Lakes of the Fulton Chain, and the Brown Tract Inlet to Raquette Lake, a trip very easily made in three hours' time, and with four short carries or portages. At Raquette Lake, steam-yacht may be taken for Forked Lake Carry, or Blue Mountain Lake ; and via the latter Long Lake may be easily and quickly reached. After leaving Fulton Chain station the road still follows the Moose River, leaving it about five miles from Arnold's Clearing. The direction taken is slightly east of north, the line passing within about two miles of Big Moose Lake, which is in sight. Beaver River is crossed at Little Rapids, and the railroad passes close to Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (for- merly Albany) and Lake Lila, (formerly Smith's Lake) and about five miles west of Little Tupper, along the shores of ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. V Horseshoe Pond, and close to Pleasant Lake. Cranberry Lake and Rig Tupper are a short distance away and easily reached from Horseshoe Pond, the former by small boats, and the latter via carriage road. From Pleasant Lake the line passes around Arab Mountain, on the west side of which the station is located for Childwold, the Childwold Park House being about five miles distant. This is also the station for Gale's Pond View House at Catamount Pond. The line crosses Raquette Pond at a point about two miles from the village of Tupper Lake. The station is located at Tupper Lake Junction, at which point the Northern Adirondack R. R. is intersected. Steamers ply on Raquette Pond and Tupper Lake, to and from the vil- lage, and Moody's, and the Tupper Lake House. From Tupper Lake Junction the line takes an easterly direction past Little Wolf Pond, and turning northerly passes Big Wolf, Rollin's, Floodwood and Long Ponds to Saranac Inn Station, two miles from Saranac Inn on Upper Saranac Lake. Connection at Saranac Inn is made with steam- yacht for Hotel Wawbeek, Rustic Lodge, Saranac Club and the Hiawatha House. Leaving Saranac Inn station the road runs eastward along the shore of Clear Lake (formerly Big Clear Pond) to Lake Clear Station. At this point a branch of nearly, six miles in length leaves the line for Saranac Lake Village where connection is made with stages for Hotel Ampersand, Algonquin, Sar- anac Lake House ; also with trains on the Saranac and Lake Placid R. R. for Lake Placid, whence Concord coaches convey travelers daily to Adirondack Lodge, VI ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACK^. Mountain View House, Cascade Lake House, Keene Val- ley, Elizabethtown and Westport. After leaving Lake Clear the main line takes a northerly direction, crossing the Bloomingdale road about four miles from Paul Smith's Hotel, 16 miles from Meacham Lake, and about four miles from Bloomingdale Village, passing close to Rainbow Lake, to the west of Round Pond (Lake Kushaqua) paralleling from Rainbow the Chateau- gay Narrow Gauge Railway to Loon Lake, the station at this point being 3 miles from the Loon Lake House. From Loon Lake the line runs northerly, within a short dis- tance of the Chateaugay Railroad, near Wolf Pond, and thence in a north-eastern direction to Mountain View (formerly State Dam), where the Salmon River is crossed and followed on the east side, through the settlements of Owl's Head and Whippleville to Malone. During the season, excursion trains run to Trenton Falls, Fulton Chain, and also between the Saranac region and Malone, Montreal, etc. DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE mi (Land of the Thousand Lakes) SARATOGA SPRINGS; SCHROON LAKE; LAKES LUZERNE, GEORGE, AND CHAMPLAIN ; THE AUSABLE CHASM ; MASSENA SPRINGS ; AND TRENTON FALLS. By K. R. WALLACE. REVISED ADD ENLARGED, Containing Numerous lllvslrations ; also. Maps. SYRACUSE, N. Y. Watson Gill. the author, publisher. 1804. X. i Pfsm\5 Copyright, 1894, By Edwin R. Wallace. ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THB ESCRIPTIYE HUIDE. * N— North. S.— South. E.— East. W.— West, r. — right. 1. — left, long, or length. m. — mile or miles. r. — rod or rods, ft. — feet. R— River. . Mt. — Mountain. Pt — Point. L. — Lake. P.— Pond, a. — acres. R. R.— Railroad. Dimensions of a Lake or Pond; e. g., (4x2) indicates a length of 4 miles and a width of 2 miles. Ieneral Divisions. i. The John Brown Tract, Oswegatchie and Grass River Regions. (Pages 25-174). II. The St. Regis and Chateaugay Woods, and Sara- nac Lake Region. (Pages 175-210). III. The Saranac Lake and Adirondack Mountain Re- gions. (Pages 211-338). IV. The Adirondack Mountain, Hudson River, Ra- QUETTE AND LONG LAKE REGIONS. (Pages 339-412). V. The Garoga, Pleasant and Piseco Lake Regions. (Pages 413-425). VI. The Raquette Waters. (Pages 426-465). VII. Camp-Life, General Outfit, and Expenses ; Game Laws ; Woodcraft ; Hotel Directory, &c. (Pages 466-508). MOONLIGHT IN THE ADIRONDACKS. " The stag at eve Had drunk his fill.' INTRODUCTION. The Great Wilderness of New York is generally known either as "The North Woods" or as "The Adirondacks," according to the view taken of its topography. The for- mer title indicates merely a wild, densely wooded district ; the latter, a region occupied by all the varied scenery of a most remarkable lake and mountain system. The one may have been the baptismal offering of a botanist ; the other of a geologist. We can easily understand how stran- gers, or the more sordid of the trappers and hunters, may speak of "The North Woods;"* but the more intimately cultivated tourists become acquainted with its wonderful diversity of characteristics, the more instinctively they think and talk of " The Adirondacks." And if our State authorities will but wisely take counsel of this increasing host, and continue the good work already inaugurated, the science of geography will soon add to its vocabulary, this euphonious designation of one of the world's popular resorts : "The New York State Adirondack Park." Foreigners will then find in the name itself — while perusing "The American Tourist's Guide" — a suggestion of a fitting place for a few weeks' rest after their wearisome Atlantic trip, and of a happy prelude of thought and feeling before they visit the western prairies and the "National Yellow- stone Park !" •In the northern part of the State, and in the St. Lawrence valley, It Is called the "South Woods." Xll INTRODUCTION. According to Hough, Clark, Parkman, Schoolcraft, and other eminent historians, upon the discovery of Canada, a powerful tribe of Indians was found occupying the northern banks of the St. Lawrence, chiefly between Quebec and Three Rivers.* It should be stated, however, that their dominions were not confined to the great basin of the St. Lawrence, but extended from the dark forests of Maine to the rocky slopes of the Pacific. From the French, they received the title of Algonquins, though the origin of this name is involved in obscurity. They were reputed at this era to be the most advanced in art, knowledge, policy and intelligence, the most distinguished for aptness and dex- terity in war and the chase, as well as the most populous of all the Indian nations of North America, not even ex- cepting the renowned Aztecs of Mexico. Colden, that great authority, speaks of them as excelling all others. Their superior strength had previously driven the Iroquois from the country adjacent to Montreal. Their dialect was the softest and most musical known, which led the Iroquois to call them Sken-so-wa-ne, "a bird that soars and warbles." They were tall, graceful and commanding, and in personal appearance had no peers among the aborigines. They be- came the terror of their enemies, and their unbounded suc- cess made them so arrogant that they looked upon them- selves as "gods upon earth." The Iroquois, however, who subsequently formed the celebrated "Confederacy of the Six Nations," were early noted for their skill, craftiness and stratagem, to which, in fact they owed their final rise. They again engaged in a long, fierce and ultimately tri- umphant war against the Algonquins, whom they defeated, and almost annihilated in a tremendous battle fought with- in two miles of Quebec. The spirit of the few remaining •Chateaubriand affirms that Canada is an Indian name, signifying "a mass ol huts." B B THE ADIRONDACKS IN THE OLDEN TIMES.— THE HUDSON, NEAR ITS SOURCE. BEHOLD the Indian warrior, whom a hand unseen Has smitten with his death-wound in the woods, Creep slowly to thy well-known rivulet And slake his death-thirst. — Byrant. INTRODUCTION. xiii Algonquins was broken, and in mortal terror they sought a hiding-place in the deepest solitudes of the New York Wilderness, which had always been their favorite hunting- ground. Here, goaded by deadly famine, and too weak and ambitionless to secure game, they subsisted for weeks upon the bark, buds, and roots of trees, and even the thongs of raw-hide forming the net-work of their snow- shoes. When reduced to this dire extremity, the Iroquois styled them, in derision, Ha-de-ron-d'ack, "Bark or Tree- eaters," from the Indian words, Ha-des, "they eat," and Ga-ron dah, "trees." The French afterwards dropped the h and wrote the word, A-di-rondack (pronounced, Ad-e- ron-dak). Thus perished this mighty nation by the hand of a foe whom they had regarded with perfect contempt. The highlands of the New York Wilderness were first called the Peruvian Mountains by the early settlers, who believed that they were rich in mineral treasures.* They afterwards received the appellation of the Macomb Moun- tains, in compliment to Gen. Macomb. In 1842, Prof. Ebenezer Emmons, then State Geologist, bestowed upon them the name of Adirondack^ and this title has since been adopted for the entire region. No more appropriate selection could have been made. The Adirondack Wilderness is a mine of beauty and of grandeur, and is justly the pride and the boast of the Empire State. Here is presented lake, river, mountain, valley and forest scenery in a combination so enchanting as hardly to be matched on the face of the earth. Al- though several railroads have pierced its leafy solitudes, large portions of the region, owing to their inaccessibility, will remain virgin ground for future explorers and sports- •Orlglnally In patents given with parcels 01 this land, the exclusive in- terest In all the gold and silver that might be found, was reserved. XIV INTRODUCTION. men. Therein many a nook still exists, where, in perfect isolation from the shriek of the steam-whistle, and the world of travelers, the old-time way of camping out may be enjoyed. This vast reach of upland has a general elevation of nearly 2,000 feet above the tide, and its surface displays a gleaming labyrinth of lakes and lakelets, linked together by innumerable streams. By inspecting our index it will be seen that the waters of this pearly chain reach over 1,200 in number, forming the most extraordinary net-work of the kind in the world* Among the rivers that find their sources in the Adiron- dacks are the Hudson, flowing into the Atlantic ; the Bou- quet, Ausable, Saranac and Chazy, into Lake Champlain ; the Chateaugay, Salmon, St. Regis, Raquette, Grasse, and Oswegatchie, into the St. Lawrence ; and the Black River flowing into Lake Ontario, with their numerous tributaries. (See Index for Rivers.) That portion of the State of New York which lies north of the Mohawk Valley, is traversed by five ranges of moun- tains belonging to the great Appalachian system, which pursue a north-easterly direction and terminate at Lake Champlain. Their axes are nearly parallel, and about 8 miles apart, though their spurs sometimes interlock, and occasionally the entire space is occupied by huge, isolated peaks. The greatest breadth of this mountain belt is nearly forty miles. The first, and most easterly range rises in the northern part of Saratoga Co., runs through Warren Co., and the narrow peninsula separating Lake George from Lake Champlain in Washington Co., and terminates in the pre- * This number may possibly be swelled to 1,400 or 1,500 by Including every tiny pond, or pool. There are many such which are nameless. INTRODUCTION. XV cipitous cliffs a little south of Fort Ticonderoga. This is called the Luzerne, Palmertown, or Black Mountain Range. The Hudson bursts through its rocky barriers near Glens Falls. Mt. Defiance, Black and French Mountains, and The Potash or Kettle Bottom are its most prominent elevations. The second range extends from Montgomery Co. through Saratoga and Warren Co's., traversing in its course the western borders of Lake George, and ends in the high bluff overlooking Bulwagga Bay, in the vicinity of Crown Pt. and Port Henry. This is termed the Kayadarosseras Range. Mt. Pharaoh, near Schroon Lake, is its highest peak. The third begins a little north of Johnstown, in Fulton Co , passes across the S. E. corner of Hamilton Co., through Warren Co., and terminates at Split Rock, near Westport. It has received the name of the East Moriah, and also of the Scarron, or Schroon Range, from the prin- cipal neighboring body of water, Schroon Lake. Crane Mt. is its loftiest eminence. The fourth starts at East Canada Creek, in Montgomery Co., touches Hamilton and Warren Co's., and extends to Peru or Willsborough Bay. This is known as the West Moriah, or as the Bouquet Range, from the river of that name watering a portion of its base. Dix's Peak is its highest elevation. The other mountains of prominence, are Nipple Top, Giant of the Valley, Macomb, Colvin, Hurricane Peak, Boreas, and Camel's Hump (Noon Mark). The fifth and most important range, is more than ioo miles in length. It begins at Little Falls, in Herkimer Co., crosses Hamilton Co., and ends in the rocky promontory of Trembleau Pt., near Port Kent. This is distinguished Xvi INTRODUCTION. as the Clinton, or Adirondack Range, and divides the waters flowing into the St. Lawrence, from those that flow into Lake Champlain and the Hudson. The Mohawk forces a passage through its walls at the southern extremity, at Little Falls. The most elevated portion of this range is a remarkable circular group of many distinct peaks, includ- ing Marcy ( Tahawus) with its altitude of 5,344 ft.— the grandest feature of the Adirondack chains — Mclntyre, Haystack. Clinton, Basin, Gray's Peak, Skylight, White- face * Coiden, the Gothics, Redfield, Santanoni, Saddle Back, Seward, Ragged, Wright, Cliff, Wolf's Jaws, Seymour, Snowy, Devil's Ear, Wallface, Emmons (Blue), Bartlett, Gore, Adams and Ampersand. It need not be said that all these chains pass through Essex Co. There is still another range, W. of the Clinton and Adi- rondack ; irregular in its course, less distinct and defined; terminating a few miles north of the Canada line. This includes Lyon Mt., Averill Peak and Owl's Crest, and is sometimes called the Sixth Range. The Adirondack peaks are the most lofty and numer- ous in the State, and are far superior in variety and sub- limity to the famous Catskills. In average altitude they are but little inferior to the White Mountains of N. H., while they greatly exceed them in point of numbers. There are, it is believed, nearly five hundred in all, and with few exceptions, each mountain, has its lake, a feature generally lacking in the scenery of the "White Hills." The rich forests of the region, with their dense and lux- uriant growth, though sadly encroached upon by the lum- berman, command the admiration of every visitor. The *WIiite(aoe, Seward, Ragged, Snowy, Blue and Ampersand, may be con- sidered as outposts of tills army of mountains. INTRODUCTION. XV11 trees comprise, pine, hemlock, spruce, tamarack, balsam fir, cedar, balm of Gilead, maple, beech, basswood, birch, oak, ash, elm, aspen or poplar, black willow, wild cherry, ironwood, hornbeam, mountain-ash, sumach, black thorn, flowering dogwood, moose-wood, walnut, and others. Among the ferns, mosses, and flowering plants, the bot- anist will find abundant material for study, and will be able to collect many valuable specimens, especially upon the open summits of the mountains, where are found spe- cies which are absent in lower altitudes. Golden-rod, the Greenland sandwort and Houstonia cxrulea, wood -sorrel with its delicate white flowers, dwarf- dogwood, meadow- sweet, and, above all, the fragrant white water-lily, which abounds in many of the lakes and ponds, are sufficiently beautiful to attract attention from all lovers of flowers. (See pp. 81, 82.) A list of the birds includes the blue jay, and the Canada jay, the chaffinch, pine or mountain-finch, and the grass- finch, or vesper-sparrow, the white- throated sparrow, the yellow-rumped warbler, speckled Canada warbler, and Audubon's warbler, the blackbird, ' bluebird, cat-bird, cedar-bird (wax-wing), snow-bird, and the humming-bird, the ptarmigan, bittern, chickadee, sandpiper, brown thrasher (Saranac nightingale, or hermit-thrush),stake-driver(yellow- hammer), whip-poor-will, rail, snipe, plover, kingfisher, woodcock, woodpecker, crane, heron, duck (goosander or merganser), mud-hen, Canada grouse, ruffed grouse (part- ridge), spruce-grouse, pigeon, raven, hawk, osprey, eagle and the American swan. But the feathered tribes are not largely represented here, and the almost oppressive silence of the forest is rarely broken by their notes. Yet, in per- fect harmony with its wildness, the mournful hoot of the XV111 INTRODUCTION. owl, and the weird cry of the loon frequently awaken the echoes in their lonely fastnesses. (See p. 378.) The cool and crystalline waters of the lakes and streams are inhabited almost exclusively by that gem of fish, the trout.* Shad, black bass, suckers, bullheads, whitefish, frost- fish, pickerel and other fishes are also found, but in limited quantities. Among the animals that hide themselves in the dewy depths of the green wood, deer and bears are still numer- ous ; the mink, muskrat, rabbit (hare), porcupine, chip- munk, and the red squirrel are plentiful ; the fox, raccoon, marmot (woodchuck), marten, badger, ermine, weasel, sable, and the otter are rarely seen ; and panthers (cougars), lynxes (catamounts), wild- cats (bay-lynxes), wolves, f and wolverines have been nearly exterminated. The moose and the beaver have entirely disappeared. The mineral wealth of the region is not inferior to the value of its forests. Many kinds of metallic and non- metallic deposits underlie large portions of the plateau, and the mountain-belt. The most extensive and valuable among these is magnetite, or magnetic oxide of iron. This is of superior quality, the ore being from 75 to 95 per cent pure metal, and producing steel equal to the best made at the Swedish and Russian mines. It lies in vast beds, and is mined successfully in several localities. The ore-beds of Jayville, Benson, Chateaugay, Palmer Hill, Arnold Hill, Port Henry and Crown Point, have proved especially pro- ductive. The Sanford vein at Adirondack Upper Iron Works is of the most remarkable character, surpassing in •Speckled or brook-trout (lalmo or salvelinus fontenalit) and lake-trout (Salvelinus namaycusJi, or salmo-conflnis, or salmo-^Adtronaalcus.") The latter Is sometimes Improperly called salmon-trout ; also "laker." tA large wolf was killed In the winter of 1893-4 by Nelson Cary, of Long Lake. INTRODUCTION. XIX extent any one, and perhaps all of the others named. It was estimated by Prof. Emmons to contain at least 3,000,- 000 tons of pure iron. A limited amount of bog, or argilla- ceous iron ore, and specular oxide of iron have been un- covered in different sections. On the borders of the Wilderness, mines of galena (sul- phuret of lead), associated with blende (sulphuret of zinc), have been worked with good success, especially at Rossie, in St. Lawrence Co. Copper also is produced in that dis- trict, but not enough to render mining profitable. Gold and silver likewise exist in the Adirondacks, but thus far have not been found in remunerative quantities. It is quite possible that an abundant supply of these pre- cious metals will yet be unearthed, as it should be remem- bered that immense tracts remain unexplored by the geologist. The minerals next in importance, are, garnet, steatite (talc or soap-stone), and graphite (plumbago or black-lead), which are so abundant as to be a source of wealth. Here and there small deposits of Labradorite (opalescent feldspar), fibrous calcite (satin spar), chalcedony (agate and carnelian), and other minerals, valued chiefly for their beauty, are to be seen.* * Babingtonite, chlorite, Kensselaerite, Brucite, apatite (phosphate of lime), calcite (carbonate of lime 1 , scapolite, Houghlte, stalagmite, colopho- nite, aragonlte, chondrodite, dolomite, ankerite, syenite, automolite, albite (white feldspar), muscovite (mica), ledererite (sphene), augite (pyroxene), sahlite (a variety of augite), coccolite (a variety of pyroxene), phlogopite (a variety of mica), dysyntribite, anglesite (sulphate of lead), Arragonite (needle-spar), sulphate of baryta (heavy-spar), pearl spar, (crystalized dolo. mite), fluor spar, tabular spar (woolastonlte), rhombspar, and calcareous spar, anthracite, peat, kaoline (porcelain-clay), water-cement, celestine (sulphate of strontia), tourmaline, porphyry, adularia (moonstone and sun- stone), spinelle, zircon, amethyst, Jasper, sapphire, calcareous tufa, epidote, greenstone, idocrase, ioxoclase (feldspar), sulphur, manganese. Epsom salts, copperas, sulphate of barytes, rutlle (titanic acid 1 , quartz crystals, horn- blende, with its distinct varieties, comprising asbestus, tremolite, pargaslte, amphibole, etc , and many other minerals are found, though not in sufficient quantities yet to be of any practical value. Upwards of 60 species of minerals have been discovered in the counties of Franklin and St. Lawrence alone. XX INTRODUCTION. Gneiss, Potsdam sandstone, and hypersthene rock, black and verde antique, or serpentine marble, are extensively quarried at various places in the marginal territory. Agricultural ventures in the irreclaimable wilderness have never proved successful. This is sufficiently indicated by the deserted clearings, with their rude habitations, either a mass of ruins, or going to decay — pathetic witnesses of wasted time, effort, hardship and final disaster — scattered throughout the borders of the forest ! This region, from its cold and sterile nature, is absolutely unsuited to cultiva- tion. The hardy potato is the only vegetable that fairly thrives ; the garden, to yield a moderate supply of its usual products, must be well- sheltered ; and indeed, such is the poverty of the soil that no species of grain, excepting per- haps oats and buckwheat, take kindly to it; and grass, save that growing wild on alluvial lands, the "beaver meadows,'* is invariably light. The entire Adirondack Region is one Vast Sanitarium. The pure and invigorating atmosphere, peculiar to high altitudes, is here highly charged with ozone, and is redolent of the healing aroma of the evergreens ; and, among the frequenters of the locality, there are numerous witnesses to its tonic power, which generally affords speedy relief to in- valids, and often effects permanent cures. Constitutions enfeebled by anxiety, over-taxation of the brain, and loss of vital energy, sufferers from dyspepsia, chronic nervous- ness, and some forms of rheumatism,* are usually restored to their normal condition, by a sojourn of several weeks or months within its boundaries. The climate is peculiarly beneficial to those suffering with hay-fever, and asthmatic affections, and the fame of the Adirondacks, both as a "The writer was cured of muscular rheumatism ol two years' duration, by three weeks ol camp-lite in the Adirondacks. INTRODUCTION. XXI summer and winter resort for consumptives, is already wide-spread. Those well-known and reliable authorities, Dr. Alfred L. Loomis and Dr. Edward L. Trudeau, affirm that twenty-five per cent, of the patients sent to that region are cured, a proportion only equaled in the State of Colo- rado. Prof. B. E. Fernow states that it should be perfectly secure from the visitation of cholera ; and that, in India, villages surrounded by forests, are never visited by this dread malady, and that troops are always withdrawn into forest- stations in order to arrest the disease, which it has been proved is invited by removal of the trees. Tramping, boating, fishing and hunting, all so common in the Wilderness, with the resultant outdoor life, while they afford agreeable modes of physical training so greatly needed by Americans, especially those of sedentary habits, are remarkably exhilarating, and produce a marvelous effect upon the system. A summer-residence in this region has been found so conducive to health and pleasure, that people come from the most distant points in this country, and even from Europe, and frequently abide here throughout the season. There are weighty reasons, besides the considerations already advanced, why the forest should be preserved. The prevention of disastrous freshets, resulting from heavy rain-fall — the flood rushing with the irresistible power of an avalanche down the mountain-sides to the lowlands, there destroying property and human life — and the shrink- age of rivers owing to the failure of their usual water- supply, which would certainly follow the cutting off of the timber, are the most important of these. Enough has been said by the public press and by eminent writers about this XX11 INTRODUCTION. grave danger to render it unnecessary for us, with our limi- ted space, to enter into a discussion of the subject.* The traditional divisions of the Great Forest are as follows : "John Brown's Tract" perhaps the most widely known of the Adirondack sections, extends across Herkimer County into Hamilton on the east, and Lewis on the west, and in- cludes 210,000 acres. "The Oswegatchie and Grass River Regions" are mostly included in the south-eastern portion of St. Lawrence Co. " The Chateaugay Woods" occupy a part of the western portion of Clinton, and the eastern portion of Franklin. •Influence op Forests on Climate.— Many rivers have totally disap- peared, or have been reduced to mere streams by an Irrational and heinous felling ol the forests. In the northeast of Germany, the Narp and Gold rivers exist only in name. The classic lands of antiquity are rich in sad les- sons of deforestation. The springs and brooks of Palestine are dry, and the frultfulness of the land has disappeared. The Jordanis four feet lower than it was in the New Testament days. Greece and Spain suffer severely to this day from the effects of destroying their forests Many parts of the Kingdom of Wurtemburg have been rendered almost barren by the felling of the trees. I:i Hungary the periodically returning drought is universally attributed to the extermination of the forest. We attribute the present unfrultfulness of Asia Minor and Greece to the destruction of the woods ; steppes, ruins and tombs have taken the place of What was the highest culture. Sardinia and Sicily were once the granaries of Italy, but have long since lost the frultful- ness sung of by the ancient poets. On the other hand, man can improve the condition of the land In which he lives, more slowly Indeed, but as certainly, by cultivating and preserving the forests. In earlier years reliable authori- ties have told us that in the Delta of Upper Egypt, there were only five or six days of rain in the year, but that, since the time when Mehemet Ali caused some 20,000,000 trees to be planted, the number of days of rain in the year has increased to forty-five or forty-six. The Suez Canal has produced remarkable results. Ismaila is built on what was a sandy desert ; but since the ground has become saturated with canal-water, trees, bushes, and other plants have sprung up as If by magic, and, with the reappearance of the vegetation, the climate has changed. Four or five years ago rain was un- known In those regions, while from May, 1868, to May, 1869, fourteen days were recorded, and once, such a rain storm, the natives looked upon as a supernatural event. (Facts recorded in the Vienna Seue Ereie Presie, May 10, 1869, and in the English journals.) Austria herself has a very striking instance of a change of climate be- ing produced by deforestation and replanting. We refer to that stretch of miles of country over which the railroad passes, near Trieste, as you go from Austria to Italy— bleak, barren, stony, with hardly earth sufficient for a weed to take root in, a stretch of barrenness on which some dread anathe- ma seems to rest. It is a curse that rests on It called down from Heaven by man. Five hundred years ago, and an Immense forest stood on the ground Where now is nothing but a sea ol stone. Venetians came and hewed down the forest in order to procure wood lor piles and mercantile purposes.— [For- est and Stream.] introduction. xxiii "The St. Regis Woods" embrace a part of the middle and western portions of Franklin, and the eastern portion of St. Lawrence. "The Saranac Region" including the Tupper Lakes sec- tion, comprises the southern portion of Franklin, the south- eastern corner of St. Lawrence, and the northern borders of Hamilton. "The Adirondack Mountain and Hudson River Regions" comprise the northern portion of Warren, and nearly the whole of Essex. "The Raquette and Long Lake Regions" consist of the most of the northern half of Hamilton. "The Garoga Lake Region" is included within the north- ern third of Fulton. "The Lakes Pleasant and Piseco Regions" are contained by the southern half of Hamilton County. The area of these various sections amounts to more than 3,500,000 acres, equal to a territory about 75 miles square.* Of this vast domain the State claims less than 800,000 acres, in detached parcels, interspersed among lands pos- sessed by different individuals and associations. Into this wild region of lovely lakes, beautiful rivers, sparkling streamlets, silvery cascades, majestic mountains, charming valleys, profound gorges, and magnificent forests, we invite the reader's good company on the following excursions. E. R. W. •Tills approximate estimate appeared in the first edition of this work, issued in 1872 ; and now, alter the lapse of 22 years, we are pleased to observe that the finding of the Forest Commission so nearly coincides with our own. It recently reported, that after careful surveys, it was found that the Adi- rondack Region embraces 3,588,803 acres, of which the State owns 731,459 acres. ?he Hdirondacks. THE PRINCIPAL AVENUES — INTO — The Great Wilderness, From Northern, Eastern, Southern and Western New York. DIVISION I. INTO THE JOHN BROWN TRACT, OSWEGATCHIE AND GRASS RIVER REGIONS. The different routes usually taken are those leading from Trenton Falls, Prospect, Remsen, Alder Creek, Boonville, Port Leyden, Lyon's Falls, Glendale, Martinsburg, Low- ville, Castorland, Carthage, Gouverneur, DeKalb Junction, Canton and Potsdam, all stations on the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad. From any of these points a few Note.— The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway, that marvel among railroad enterprises, also passes through Trenton Falls, near Prospect, through Remsen, and within 2% miles (Forest Port) of Alder Creek. 26 THE ADIRONDACKS. hour's journey conveys the tourist into an unbroken wilderness. First: — Trenton Falls. To this romantic spot the route is familiar to many of our readers. Easy of access (17 m. from Utica, and 23^ m. from Herkimer), perfectly adapted to the requirements of the pleasure-seeker, and presenting a variety of charms truly enchanting to the lover of nature, Trenton Falls will ever remain a popular resort to those who would examine a multiplicity of natural at- tractions, with but little trouble or expense. Leaving the cars at Trenton Falls Station, we are conveyed by one of Moore's elegant Concord coaches to the hotel (1 m.; fare 25 cts.); passing en route, through a smiling pastoral district; fertile fields and gently swelling hills pleasantly encircling us, and murmuring streamlets sparkling brightly along our way, forming a fitting introduction to "one of the loveliest scenery haunts in all our picturesque country." West Canada Creek,* is the chief tributary of the Mo- hawk, whose Indian names, Te-uge-ga, and Te-non-anatch- ie, signify, " a river flowing through a mountain." It is but little inferior to the main stream itself, and from its lake- dotted home in the wild solitudes of the Adirondacks, it •This stream was originally known In the Indian vernacular as Kmmeaieyu; the word " Canada " being a corruption of that name, which signifies " beau- tiful water," fi'om Its rich amber color. To this stream the Aborigines also applied the appellation ot Kn-na-ta, "dark brown water"; and to the cascades, Date wa-sunUha-go, "Great Falls," and Kuy-a-ho-ra, "fall of the glancing waters." Tradition asserts that in early days an Indian trail (a well-worn path,) extended from the Mohawk Valley to the St. Lawrence, passing for many miles along the course of West Canada Creek ; and that the Mohawks, the most warlike tribe of the great confederacy of the Six Nations, evinced their admiration for the " Cascades of the Koimedieyu," by adopting that location for a summer camp. The writer deems It appropriate to give the Indian names of lakes, streams, mountains, etc.— often so peculiarly sonorous, euphonious, and even elegant— whenever they are not too harsh, and Ill-connected, or almost Interminable. Ye say they all have pass'd away, That noble race and brave, That their light canoes have vanish'd From off the crested wave, That mid the forests where they roam'd, There rings no hunter's shout; But their name is on your waters, Ye may not wash it out. Mrs. Sigourney. H W m 2 H o z TRENTON FALLS. 27 passes impetuously onward, characterized by foaming rapids, imposing waterfalls and occasional stillwaters — its branches nearly uniting with those of Black River — until it reaches Prospect Village, where through a deep, narrow and secluded ravine it precipitates itself in a succession of the most charming cascades, termed Trenton Falls. The walls of this ravine are of fine dark limestone, gen- erally perpendicular, from 70 to 250 ft. in height, and from 100 to 300 ft. apart. Thence — as if seeking rest after its mad career — the stream flows with gentler current for up- wards of 22 m. when it unites with the Mohawk 5^ m. below the village of Herkimer. The whole line of its tumultuous passage, from the mountain fastnesses of the Great Forest to the foot of the Trenton defile, presents a most interesting variety of scen- ery; cliffs, chasms and cascades abounding in delightful numbers. Its principal source, Great West Canada L. is 2348 ft. above tide, and its mouth 380; so that in about 90 m. it has a descent of nearly 2000 ft., or more than 22 ft. to the mile. From Prospect within 3 m. it descends over 300 ft. forming six waterfalls of most absorbing interest. Besides these, there are several raceways from 10 to 20 rods long, and from 10 to 15 ft. wide, through which its waters rush with great velocity. It affords immense hydraulic power, although .but a small portion of it has as yet been utilized for manufacturing purposes. And farther on it will be seen (see Prospect route), that its upper waters, but little explored, constitute one of the finest trout streams in America. It receives Black Creek about 6 m. above the Upper Fall (Prospect}, and Cincinnati Creek 1 m. below the Lower Fall, (Conrad's). Starting from the hotel to explore these neighboring marvels, we immediately enter a handsome grove, bound- ing three sides of the house, pass through a gate (entrance fee to those not guests, 25 cts.), and after proceeding some 20 rods, the pathsides glorified by lovely wild flowers, we suddenly halt; for we have reached the brink of an impas- sable gulf, till now concealed by the luxuriant foliage of the arching trees. Recovering from our surprise, we des- cend five flights of stairs (with railings), securely attached to a nearly perpendicular wall 100 ft. high. The chasm is 28 THE ADIRONDACK^. here so thoroughly veiled by the bordering thicket— as though nature thus jealously sought to hide the attractions of this exquisite shrine from the eyes of all but her true worshipers— that we receive hardly a hint of the wonders awaiting us, till we reach the very bottom of the ravine. Then, the spectacle so abruptly presented to us, is one of startling beauty and grandeur. We pause, amazed; spell- bound. Before us is disclosed a magnificent canon whose precipitous walls are composed of layers, and blocks of such singular uniformity, that they seem to have been placed there by masons' hands. Between them, over in- clined platforms of smooth flinty limestone the furious stream has carved its course. One's first thought is that the mountain cliff has been torn asunder by the mighty power of some earthquake; and these dark frowning bat- tlements left standing in their majesty. But the slow abra- sion has been going on through the lapse of ages by the agency of water, which in its constant action, beginning in a mere seam in the stratified rock, has wrought this marvelous chasm. Below the staircase (45 rods) we see the lower termina- tion of the chasm, where we find the Village or Conrad's Fall (5 ft.). In the opposite direction, 37 rods above, Sherman Fall is in partial view. At the foot of the stairs, the stream is very narrow; not exceeding 10 ft. in width in the dry season, nor 20 ft. in the spring-time. From the staircase the route of the spectator lies mostly along the margin of the rushing waters, over a pathway cut by ex- tensive blasting in the face of the overhanging cliffs. Al- though this narrow shelf seems so perilous a passage, as to make the head grow giddy, for the careful tourist it really has no dangers ; hand-rails and chains securely fastened to the rocky walls insuring perfect safety. Thousands of peo- ple, including many ladies,* pass yearly through this gorge; and yet, since the improvements were made no serious acci- dent has been recorded. The proprietors cannot be too highly commended for the excellent paths and stairways they have constructed, extending altogether nearly 2 m. Excavations have been made not only to provide safe and •Ladles should tie sure to provide themselves wltli rubber shoes and water- proof cloaks. TRENTON FALLS. 29 easy footways for- visitors, but also to admit them to the best points of view; and thus the tour of the ravine is ren- dered more interesting and satisfactory. From some ele- vated places in the main pathway, frequently 15 or 20 ft. above the stream, the views of the rapids are singularly beautiful; and, as we pass along, we meet with many sur- prises, finding something to admire at every turn. But what impresses us most, is the primitive loveliness of this sanctuary of Nature. Utter wildness and sublimity reign supreme. From the foot of Sherman Fall the path to the summit of the wall over which the raging torrent sweeps, is nearly touched by the descending flood. Over this immense para- pet, the water — often decked with the richest hues* — pours its foaming tide (33 ft.) into the boiling depth below; while on either side the dizzy crags rise grandly 150 ft. or more. This cataract exhibits its resistless might by its amazing excavations. Thousands of tons of enormous slabs are annually forced from the west corner, which receives the bulk of the torrent ; and such is the power and velocity of the stream in flood-time, that these slabs weighing from 5 to 25 tons each, are sometimes actually swept through the rapids and over the lower falls, a thunderbolt of roaring waters ! Immediately above Sherman Fall, the stream widens, and soon we pass a boisterous, sinuous rapid, sweeping with headlong fury over hidden rocks, and claiming so much of our path that we are obliged almost to creep beneath a low projecting ledge. At this point people of all degrees, with- out regard to rank or sex, must do homage with bended forms before they are admitted to the grander scenes await- ing them. Emerging from this adamantine corridor, we reach an immense flat rock ; and our eyes are suddenly greeted with an enchanting prospect of the chief cascades, High Falls, 40 rods beyond. We now survey a picture truly sublime. Extending diagonally across the canon, we see a massive rock 100 ft. high, doubly flanked by walls ascending 100 ft. * The peculiar color of the water presenting nearly every shade from amber to gold, is especially noticeable; and In the afternoon sun the spray of the different falls Is always tinged with the various tints of the rainbow. 3<3 THE ADIRONDACKS. higher. From this majestic rampart the frenzied Kanata leaps first 40 ft. perpendicularly in foam and spray, the larger portion hurling its angry waters down the left hand side, while, on the right, a sheet like molten silver is dis- played. Midway for a space, this rock is untouched by the flood, and forms a commanding breastwork, as though planted there by Titanic hands to protect the more beaute- ous cascade from the rage of its violent neighbor. Uniting on the plane below, and gaining increased power by com- bined strength, the tumultuous stream — one mass of fleecy foam — abruptly dashes down a success! 1 of giant steps (15 ft.) and with a sheer fall of 40 ft. plunges in an un- broken sheet into a deep, dark and spacious caldron be- neath. The lofty crags (including East Cliff), rise almost perpendicularly on either side, and stai ' like sentinels guarding the approach to this enchanted . od. Here and there, feathery ferns, velvety mosses, tangled vines, dwarfed trees and the pretty blue hare-bell, cling with precarious foothold to the rocks, especially on the righ: bank, arraying them in robes of various tinted, living g. een. At other places these stupendous walls display no 'e, not even a tuft of grass. Gracefully reaching over th verge of the gorge, we notice a variety of evergreen tree" forming, with their rich emerald shades, an exquisite fn >ge ; and high over all, in limitless space — a glorious canop;. for so grand a scene — arch the etherial heavens. Opposite to and overlooking High Falls, 1 f t. below, — nestling cosily in the side of this mountain gl< and embo- somed in hemlock and cedar trees lending g ..i.eful shade — is the " Rural Retreat " (reached by stairs), 1 neat, rustic chalet, with a pleasant veranda, offering fine prospects, an agreeable resting-place, and various refreshments. Here, books and views of the surrounding scenery may be ob- tained. The situation of this " Half-Way House " is quite commanding, and very popular with visitors to the chasm, who always linger to contemplate and listen to the musical dashing of the waters. Pursuing our journey 40 rods farther, the ravine materi- ally enlarged and the Kanata broader, but quite shallow, we reach the peculiar cascade termed Mill Dam Fall. At this place the rocky battlement extends entirely across the x f- UJ o a 5 m z o H Z LU a. TRENTON FALLS. 3 1 stream (ioo ft.) and forms a smooth natural dam, producing the beautiful waterfall (14 ft.) so appropriately named. When the stream is swollen, numerous jutting points of rocks break the line of the fall, causing the water to descend in gracefully arching jets. The effect thus produced is the most fairy-like imaginable.* Here the banks have an ele- vation of 100 ft. Just above this spot, the iron bridge of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (350 ft. in length; a model of engineering skill) spans the chasm at the dizzy height of 75 ft.; and from the windows of the passing trains is revealed one of the most wonderful landscapes in America. A short distance beyond, the Kanata suddenly contracts, and we immediately enter that wild realm of romantic beauty styled the Alhambra. We find ourselves upon a vast platform of polished rock, 15 rods in width (at low water) and 90 in length, completely fringed with cedar trees which veil the rocky heights towering heavenward. Reaching the upper extremity of this superb cathedral of Nature, the culmination of this wondrous spectacle greets the eye. A lofty rock shoots its naked length from the middle of the massive wall, and on its brow a tiny stream- let discharges its sparkling jewels in a perpetual shower, as though shed from a magic sieve. Overshadowing cliffs dis- play their barren sides, occasionally enlivened by clumps of verdant shrubbery. At the left, down a broad stairway formed of successive layers of rock, the wild cascade of the Alhambra takes its silvery way, presenting a fine combination of the contradic- tory elements of gentleness and violence. Glancing up- ward through the sombre cleft with its many striking fea- tures, the scene is impressive in the extreme ; and language fails to adequately describe the weird and varied beauties here displayed. Mr. Sherman, in his neat little volume, " Trenton Falls," edited by N. P. Willis, most admirably portrays the wonders of this exhibition. Resuming the ascent, and gaining the summit of the cas- cade, the wide opening here contracts, and we at once enter * It should tie noted, that the aspects ol these different falls are widely various, according to the condition of the stream. During the rainy season the dimensions of the river are greatly increased, so much so at times, as to render exploration of the gorge impossible. 32 THE ADIRONDACKS. a profound amphitheatre till now unrevealed. Its promi- nent feature is a majestic rock of great, altitude, supported by a column of unique shape. From this huge, inaccessible cliff, monstrous slabs of strata have fallen, forming a chaotic pile of limestone at the base. A few steps beyond, is the first of a surprising series of rock-sculpture. This resembles a natural fire-place, as regular in its shape, as if hewn by human hands. Next is a notable example called the Rocky Heart, closely resem- bling the form which its name indicates. And near by is the curious perforation known as Jacob's Well, or the Potash Kettle. The water, by means of small granite peb- bles anciently lodged in depressed places in the rock, and kept violently whirling in seasons of freshets, has bored a smoothly polished circular hole, about 6 ft. deep and 4 ft. in diameter. Other similar pools but of smaller size, abound in various parts of the gorge. While the Alhambra is to many the crowning attraction of all the glen, the Rocky Heart is really the climax of this long reach of picturesque loveliness; and the tourist rarely passes beyond this point, as a continuance of the journey is attended by great inconvenience and some danger. Yet a few and even some of the gentler sex continue the explor- ation to the Upper Fall (Boon's Bridge), the termination of the chasm, 3 m. from the hotel. To make this excursion comfortably, requires an entire day ; starting in the morn- ing, dining at Prospect, and returning in the afternoon via the excellent road leading through the lovely valley of Cincinnati Creek. Those who proceed no farther than the Rocky Heart, are advised to return by the pleasant well- kept footpath which ascends from the Rural Retreat, and passes through the forest; as the scenery is always more im- pressive in going up the stream than in coming down ; and returning by another route gives more variety. The ravine of the Kuy-a-ho-ra affords an inviting and fruitful field for the geologist; for in the masses of rock are frequently found valuable specimens of organic remains, including the rare Trilobite {"Isotelas Gigas,") orthocerat- ites, favosites, nautili, and many others. A large collection of these specimens, embracing fossils of great beauty and perfection, may be inspected at the hotel. The botanist TRENTON FALLS. 33 also may here find ample material for study, as the woods and banks are interspersed with a profusion of wild plants and fl >wers; and the extensive flower garden near the hotel, with its wealth of floral treasures, filling the air with aromatic sweetness, wins the admiration of all. Rare plants, gaudy in the variety of their tints, and clumps of choice and fragrant shrubs brilliantly gay, flourish abun- dantly, some of which are vainly sought for in many a greenhouse Aside from the immediate fascinations of Trenton Falls, the vicinity abounds in delightful walks and drives. Among these may be named the following: First, a ramble through the woods near the hotel, which includes the " Lover's Walk," — a beautiful avenue of hemlocks — and along the margin of the ravine, viewing the rich beauty of the banks, and obtaining occasional glimpses of the white foam of the rushing torrent in the dark pass far below, should not be omitted. In fact, when the Kanata is so swollen as to render it unsafe to explore the bottom of the gorge, tourists take this route in visiting the High Falls, finding no less of beauty if losing much of its sublimity. Pausing at Car- michael's Pt. on the way, they obtain the best general view presented on this side of the stream. Along this wild and varied path, at convenient distances, easy seats have been placed; and while resting here, the reverberating music of the falls continually regales the ear. Next, by crossing the bridge a short distance below the foot of the gorge, and ascending the sloping elevations beyond, we are afforded a pleasing prospect of the surrounding country. The tourist should not fail to visit East Cliff, on the east side of the stream 2^'m. from the hotel. It is perhaps the most inter- esting point of observation in the vicinity of the abyss. From this place the wild and entrancing splendor of the whole mighty gorge bursts fully upon us. The High Falls, the Mill Dam Fall, and the Cascade of the Alhambra, the Rural Retreat (nearly opposite), and Carmichael's Pt., the cliffs, — here bare, there verdure-draped, — and long reaches of the surging, tumbling Kanata, are included in the superb panorama spread before us. The drives along the banks of West Canada Creek to Newport (10 m. S.), one of the handsomest inland villages 34 THE ADIRONDACKS. in the country; to Prospect, (2^ m.) ; to Baron Steuben's Monument and Starr's Hill, near Remsen (10 m.) ; to Hol- land Patent, (7 m.); to South Trenton, (5 m.) ; and to Twin Rock Pond, (7 m.)— generally over excellent roads and through new, beautiful and constantly changing scen- ery — are especially enjoyable. There is a church at the Falls, and several at the village of Trenton. Trenton Village —formerly called Oldenbarneveld* (Ind. One-ti-a-dah-que, "in the bone") a station on the R. W. & O. R. R., is pleasantly situated on Cincinnati Creek, 2 m. S. W. of Moore's Hotel. To sum up : Few resorts offer greater inducements for a short tarry or a quiet summer sojourn. The society is in- variably excellent. The hotel is not only home-like, but is distinguished for its luxurious appointments. It has from the first, been managed by men of unusual intelligence and refined and artistic tastes'. \ It has a frontage of 136 ft. and the veranda extending its entire length is 12 ft. broad. Its spacious apartments always scrupulously neat, are richly yet suitably furnished, and paintings and engravings by famous artists who have visited this spot, adorn their walls. The dining room is 60 by 30 ft., and the table, of such re- markable excellence as usually satisfies the demands of the *In honor ol the patriot and statesman, Jolin Oldenbarneveld, Grand Pen- sioner of the State of Holland, who was beheaded In 1619. t To John Sherman, a grandson ol Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declara- tion of Independence, and a graduate ol Yale In 1793, we are Indebted for first bringing to public notice this favorite resort. This brilliant divine, scholar and writer, and most estimable man, after filling a Congregational pulpit for twelve years, embraced liberal doctrines, and soon.afterward (1805) accepted an urgent Invitation to become pastor of the first established Unitarian church In this State, at Trenton Village. An ardent admirer of the charms of nature, the Falls immediately attracted his attention ; and he soon be- came owner of the tract embracing the most important of them. In 1822 he built the "Rural Resort" (now called Trenton Falls Hotel), which he en- larged In 1825. His death, greatly regretted, occurred in 1828, and the monu- ment N. of the hotel marks his resting-place. Mr. M. Moore, a cultured gen- tleman and merchant of New York, prompted by the reports that reached him of the rare attractions of this spot, visited the Falls at an early date, and being severely Injured one day by a fall while exploring the gorge, he was so faithfully nursed during his long confinement by a daughter of Mr. Sherman, that he became her suitor, and subsequently her husband, and the proprietor here. Mr. Moore was distinguished for his genial and urbane characteristics ; and after contributing to the enjoyment of his guests for nearly 60 years, he, too, passed away In 1888, to the great regret of numerous friends. The property, however, still remains In the hands of Ms family. MOORE'S HOTEL. TRENTON FALLS. TRENTON FALLS. 35 most exacting epicure, or the invalid with capricious appe- tite.* Trenton Falls, for many years has been a theme for em- inent writers of this and other countries. George Wm. Curtis, Fanny Kemble Butler, Frederika Bremer, Lady Amelia Murray and George Combs speak of it with glowing enthusiasm. N. P. Willis makes the locality the scene of his pleasing romance, " Edith Linsey." "Trenton," says George William Curtis in his "Lotus Eating," " is the summer song of rest. Beauty and grace are its praises. You hear them from those who are either hurrying to the grandeur of Niagara, or from those who step aside to enjoy the music of the greater cataract soft- ened into an exquisite echo. The charm of Trenton is unique ; and in some choice niche of memory you will lay it aside, not as a sublime statue nor prophetic and solemn picture, but as a vase most delicate, and chased with pas- toral tracery." Those not desiring to penetrate the woods farther than Metcalf Creek, Jock's, or the Reservoir Lakes, and yet who who would find excellent sporting, regard the routes from Trenton Falls and from Prospect, 2J6 m. beyond — the two becoming identical there — somewhat desirable ones. Second: — From Prospect Station, on the R. W. & O. R. R, to Prospect Village the distance is 1% m., while from the station bearing the same name on the A. & St. L. R. R. it is only % m. Stages meet every train on either line; fare, 10 to 15 cts. This busy little manufacturing town is pic- turesquely situated on West Canada Creek, at the head of the romantic ravine we have just explored. The upper of the six cascades, styled Kuyahora Fall, (20 ft.) is in full view from Boon's Bridge, over which our route lies, where all will pause to survey and admire the romantic beauty of the spot. On the banks of this gorge, ^ m. below, is the Perkins House, a delightful location, where limited accom- modations are offered to summer visitors. (P. 0. Prospect, N. Y.) At Bagg's Hotel or the Dodge House the traveler * There are two hotels tinder the same management. In the one more re- mote from the Falls, open to the puMic all the year, less expensive, though less elegant quarters may he secured. The larger house opens June 1st and closes about Sept. 15. 36 THE ADIRONDACKS. will find excellent entertainment ; also the necessary con- veyances. All kinds of camping supplies, fishing tackle, ammunition, etc., are obtainable at George H. Worden's. From his great experience in camp life he knows just what the sportsman needs. Those desiring special information regarding the West Canada Creek region, may obtain the same' by- addressing him at Prospect. From Prospect to Hinckley's Mills, it is 2 m.; thence to Grant, 3 m.; Ohio, 5 m.; Wilmurt Corners, 4 m.; Ed. Wil- kinson's Hotel, 2 m.; "Griff Evans'" Hotel, 3 m. (the road branching 1. here from the main route); Wilkinson's old place, 2 m.; thence to Jock's (Honnedaga) Lake, g}4 va. Total, from Prospect Station, 32 m. The road is in good condition for upwards of 22 m ; thence it has been so im- proved that travelers will not feel obliged to walk over that portion of the route as formerly. The Adirondack League Club Preserve lies south- west of Raquette Lake, partially in Herkimer and Hamilton Counties; embracing Townships 2, 5, 6, 7 and 8 of what is ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB. 37 known as the Moose River Tract, as shown in the accom- panying map. This is probably the largest private sporting reserve in this country; the forest lands owned by the Club in fee comprising 104,000 acres, while it has leased the ex- clusive hunting and fishing privileges of 75,000 acres ad- joining its property on the east and south* The average elevation of this vast tract, is 2,200 feet. THE LEAGUE'S PRESERVE. To the oarsman and canoeist are offered endless possi- bilities for exploration and discovery. There are over thirty important lakes wholly or partially on the tract, in- cluding North, Honnedaga, (Jock's) Moose, Clear, Panther, Pico, Little Woodhull, Canachagala, Jones, Deer, Otter, Goose, Horn, Hardscrabble, Brooktrout, Spruce, Cedar, Twin Rock, Little Rock, Sampson, Whitney, Gull, the West Canada Group, Little Salmon, Baby, Caswell, East, Deer and Lily Lakes and Ponds; and also innumerable smaller sheets. Waterways, navigable to small craft, thread •Dr. W. Seward Webb's grand preserve— Se-ha-sa-ne Park— nearly touching tlie northern boundary of this princely forest domain, is perhaps equally extensive. ,g THE ADIRONDACKS. the forest in every direction. Doubtless many of these have never been followed to their source except by the birch canoe of the savage, while there are vast undiscovered forest depths S. and E. of Moose Lake, where the foot of the white man has never trod. Lower Stillwater of West Canada Creek is navigable within the boundaries from 4 to 6 miles without a carry. Close to the northern boundary, and in fact partially within the tract, is First Lake, one of the "braided lakes" of the celebrated Fulton Chain; and one may paddle, with a few short carries, through this entire chain of Eight Lakes, into the Raquette, Forked Lake, Long Lake, the Tuppers and the Saranacs. Directly west is the preserve of the Bisby Club, a small and select sport- ing association of 25 members with which the relations are especially neighborly and cordial. This region has long been celebrated as a hunting and fishing resort, its inaccessibility having hitherto tended to protect both game and fish. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railroad, con- necting with the Central at Herkimer, brings the edge of the tract within 9 hours of New York City. There are 2 stations within easy driving distances of the Club houses. One of these is styled "Honnedaga" (22 m.from Honnedaga Lake), and the other "Arnold's" or "Fulton Chain." The other approaches are by wagon road from Prospect, Rem- sen, East Steuben, or Alder Creek, on the R. W. & O. R. R.; a drive of from 261^ to 32 m.* The Club was organized in 1890 by a number of gentle- men of sporting proclivities, for the purpose of establishing a game preserve in a chosen quarter of the Adirondack Wilderness. One of their leading motives was the desire to put into practice the system of rational forestry prevail- ing on the continent of Europe, which reconciles the pres- ervation and continual reproduction of forest areas with a permanent and increasing income. The experiment was undertaken under the most favorable conditions, (fully 93,- 000 of the 104,000 acres being covered with a magnificent virgin forest of birch, spruce, pine, maple, cherry, cedar, hemlock and ash,) and its success has already more than * Reinsen is also on, and the other stations named, near the Adirondack Si St Lawrence E. R. < z z o I z o U4 I/) o X CO 3 o o -J O ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB. 39 demonstrated the wisdom of the undertaking. Prof. B. E. Fernow, Chief of the Forestry Division of the Department of Agriculture at Washington, is one of the trustees, and the forestry adviser of the Club, and is in the active man- agement of its forest policy. A contract for the removal of the spruce above i 2 inches- in diameter at a stumpage price, already guarantees the Club an income from this source of $35,000 a year for the next fifteen years. This income, it is believed, could be increased to $60,000 a year without detriment to the tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and with positive benefit to the forest. Prof. Fernow estimates the value of the merchantable timber at a round million dollars ; which could be removed under the supervision of the Chief Forester, in such a way as to bring about the complete renewal of the lumbered portions in fifteen years, so that the process might go on forever. The plan of the Club contemplates a possible member- ship of 500. The price of a membership share is $1,500. Each share is unassessable and entitles the holder to an undivided five-hundredth interest in this superb property, with all its hunting and fishing privileges, to all dividends which may be declared, and also to a five-acre lot wherever selected, for a camp or cottage site, deeded to each mem- ber in fee. Most of the sites so far selected have been on Honnedaga or Moose Lake, where handsome cottages are being rapidly built. The Club House, formerly known as " Forest Lodge," and kept by A. D. Barber, Jr., is delight- fully located on the north eastern shore of Honnedaga Lake. Mr. Barber, who is a member of the Club and also its steward, furnishes Club members, their families and guests with excellent accommodations. Guides, boats, and all the accoutrements for hunting and fishing, are here ob- tainable; The entire property is owned by the Club. Another most attractive Club House, styled " Mountain Lodge," a model in every particular and costing nearly $30,000, has been erected on Moose Lake. (P. O.., Old Forge.) This point is reached by trail from " Forest Lodge," (distance said to be 25 m.) and via Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., from Herkimer to " Arnold's ; " thence by new road, 4j^ miles; or via Old Forge and First Lake. 40 THE ADIRONDACK^. A fine hatchery, at a cost of $3,500, has been built on Honnedaga Lake where millions of fry will be annually ready for distribution. A Post Office has been established there, called " Honnedaga," and the roads and approaches have been much improved.* Many of the members of this association are people of wealth and prominence in various parts of the country; (17 being probably millionaires, 12 clergymen, and 4 ladies,) and the League, as a whole, has exerted a strong influence in promoting the enforcement of the game laws. The trustees of the Club are Hon. Warner Miller of Her- kimer, Mills W. Barse of Olean, O. L. Snyder of Buffalo, Judge Warren Higley, Judge Henry E. Howland, George H. Ripley, Win. G. DeWitt, Henry S. Harper, Wm. H. Boardman, Robert C. Alexander and A. G. Mills (Prest. of the Club) of New York City, Rev. Dr. S. J. Niccolls of St. Louis, Alexander R. Harper of Philadelphia, Prof. B. E. Fernow of Washington, D. C, and Frederick G. Burnham, of Morristown, N. J. A handsome book containing maps, illustrations, arid other interesting matter, has been pub- lished by the Club. Applications for membership should be addressed to the Secretary, Robert C. Alexander, 203 Broadway, New York, or to any member of the Board of Trustees. Jock's Lake (6 x 1), (Ind., Hon-ne-da-ga, " clear water,") one of the chief sources of West Canada Creek, is a cres- cent-shaped body of water, framed in by densely wooded hills, margined by bold rocky shores, and presenting alto- gether one of the fairest woodland scenes in all that wild interior. It received its name from its discoverer, "Uncle" Jock Wright, one of the noted trappers of early days, and a veteran of Revolutionary fame. It is sometimes designated Transparent, from the remarkable purity and clearness of its waters. We are glad that the owners of this liquid jewel of the forest have restored its beautiful Indian name of Honnedaga. For many years it has been a favorite resort of the angler, where salmon trout especially abound; and down the outlet % m. at Baby Lake, the hunter occasion- * Mr. Barber has been appointed Postmaster; a well-merited honor. o o =S z -d JO O s I I o Z z m o > > r- > m >- a < u UI I NORTH AND SOUTH LAKES. 41 ally secures a deer. From the Club House a good carry* leads N. E. 3 m. to Jones L. (*/$ x %\ a pleasant, hill- encircled trout pool. From the E. side, upper end, carry Yz m. E. to Deer L., a small sheet set in a large marsh, at the foot of Panther Mt., where deer often graze. A short distance farther E. is Otter L., famed for trout; and J^ m. N. E. of that is a beautiful little deer pond styled Goose, and dignified, as the others are, with the general name of " lake." Not far from the head of Honnedaga L. is Little Engineer or Hardscrabble L., a wonderful trout producer. From the Club House another carry extends S. of E. 3 m. to Lower Stillwater, on W. Canada Creek, whence Long Stillwater and W. Canada Lakes are visited, lfy miles S. W. of Honnedaga L. is South Lake Reservoir; and 2 m. W. of that is North Lake Reservoir ; the first acces- sible by path and road, and the latter thence by road. These once pretty lakes are headwaters of Black R., and are termed " Reservoir " on account of their being em- ployed as "feeders" to the Black River Canal. The length of each is about .2 m. South L. is especially famous for fish, and what is remarkable for a North Woods lake, furnishes not only trout, but suckers, in abundance. It was once an extraordinary place for lake trout, and even at a recent date, many very large fish have been taken by trolling. There are also some fine speckled trout, but they are not so plentiful as formerly. The increase to the flow line in this lake, caused by the dam, has interfered with the production of fish, as well as with the scenery. This is equally true in reference to North L. On the divide be- tween Honnedaga and South L., it is a very easy matter to get lost. It is said that more men get " turned around " here than in any other locality in the woods. *A "carry," (Ind. Ke-wee-naw) Is a path or trail, over which portages are made. It should t)e remembered that In this " Venice of America," nearly all the traveling is done by means of boats, constructed ol such light mate- rial (cedar or pine, weighing 20 to 75 lbs., yet conveying safely from 2 to 4 persons), that they can be easily lifted from the water and borne on the shoulders of the guide from one lake or stream to another. The accompany- ing illustration best describes the mode by which these graceful little shal- lops are carried over these forest routes. But these portages are very fatiguing, when made under the weight of all the paraphernalia of the camp. Along the carries, as well as the streams, beautiful mosses, delicate ferns and sweet wild flowers abundantly cluster, lending rich perfume to the mountain air, and grace and beauty to the woodland scenery. 42 THE ADIRONDACK^. The Woodhull Lakes, sources of Black R., are visited from this vicinity by following good paths and roads ex- tending to them. Distance 6 to 9 m. From the upper end of North L. it is 25^ m. N. by path to Canachagala L. The route from Prospect to Wilkinson's also extends to the Piseco and Pleasant Lake region, as follows : — Prospect to Wilkinson's 16 m.; Griff Evans', 3 m. ; Morehouseville, 4 m. ; foot of Piseco L, ro m.; thence to L. Pleasant, 14 m.; total distance from Prospect, 47 m. The road is most- ly in good condition, except that portion (9 m.) lying alongside Piseco L. HEAD-WATERS OF WEST CANADA CREEK.* To one weary of the tameness of " kid glove" fishing, a visit to the head-waters of West Canada Creek will afford a pleasant and exciting contrast. From Ed. Wilkinson's old place, near the Upper Forks (junction of E. & W. Branches of W. Canada Creek) a foot- trail extends about a mile above the mouth of Indian R.; beyond this is virgin forest, which has rarely been invaded even by the most adventurous sportsmen. Commencing at Prospect and following the winding course of this creek, we will find, perhaps, the most beautiful trout stream in Amer- ica. Leaving Prospect, we travel on the N. side, 2 m. to Gang [Hinckley's] Mills. Here, those desiring to go to Grant, Ohio "City," or Gray, must cross the bridge. But the former (N. side) is the better route to Wilkinson's ; so we adopt it and proceed accordingly. Four m. farther are the Forks, where Black Creek unites with West Canada. Here, if so disposed, we may fish during the day, with or with- out boats, and after a rich day's sport, return at night to •It 1b generally estimated that the first waters of the W. C. Creek are found about ninety miles from Its junction with the Mohawk River, near Herkimer Village. The several lakes that have received the particular name of "West Canada," are partially described on another page. But it la claimed by the best authorities, Geo. H. Worden and others, that there are numerous W. Canada Lakes. Says Mr. Worden : " The Canada Lakes are all the lakes which supply the West Canada Creek ; and their name is legion. Thirty-five miles N. E. of Utlca you commence to come upon them, and for mlleB the Wilderness Is dotted here and there with lake or lakelet, filled with the speckled beauties, discharging their waters by small brooks or creeks. Into the West Canada. I have fished In both salt and fresh waters In many different places, yet have I never found sport like this. West Canada Creek Is the home of the Silver Trout, the most beautiful of all the species." n o H > O m c/i z ■< o m X) 1 x m > O I O Z z m O > a > < < a < a 2 z O a O 2 < WEST CANADA CREEK. 43 Prospect. (A branch of the A. 6" St. L. R. R. extends from Prospect Station to Hinckley's Mills, 2% m.) Two m. above the Forks we reach Hess Rifts, where, if willing to wade, we may soon fill our baskets. Four m. beyond (12 m. above Prospect), is the Conkling Place, where a small brook (" Conkling ") flows into the Creek ; and from this brook to the ruins of old "Conkling" bridge, the angler will find superior trouting. Geo. H. Worden,* with a party of four, in June, 1876, caught over 300 fine trout in less than six hours of fly-fishing. Wilmurt Falls (50 ft.) lend additional attractions to this locality. From Conkling's it is 4 m. to the "Hunter's Home," Ed. Wilkinson, proprietor, where we usually find a dinner of savory trout awaiting us. Four Mile Creek enters W. Canada just opposite Ed.'s house. In the vicinity within % to 1 m. are 4 good trout lakes. From this point, some of our party, members or guests of The Adirondack League Club, propose to visit Honnedaga L.; so Ed. takes them aboard, and for 5 m. they journey on, over very pass- able roads, passing Griff Evans' Hotel (3 m.); then Ed.'s old place (2 m ). Just beyond this where they cross Big Brook, flowing from Little Salmon L., N. W.,f they strike into the Honnedaga L. road, and at the end of g% m - reach that lake. Formerly they did not ride far on this road before they were disposed to get out and walk, leaving Ed. with the horses to clamber over huge boulders and up steep elevations, over logs and through tree tops, until the novitiate stared with wide-eyed astonishment at the won- derful performances of horses and wagon. But this highway has been greatly improved and now affords a comfortable journey over the entire course. Some time after dark the Club House is reached, and Ed., after promising to see them again at a certain date, turns his team homeward, and in the darkness of night retraces the long 14^ miles. Next morning finds him ready for the next party. Those of us who remain, hire a cheap conveyance, also of Wilkinson, which transports us to the " Frazier Clearing," * To this accomplished sportsman, we are Indebted lor valuable inlorma- tlon concerning West Canada Creek. t L. Salmon L. (1 x x) lies X ™- W. of the road, 2# m. this side of Honne- daga L. It is noted for the size and superior quality of Its speckled trout. 44 THE ADIRONDACKS. (6% m.) via Griff Evans'. Now we must bid adieu to our driver, shoulder our knapsacks, and falling back upon primitive locomotion, proceed more at leisure. A foot trail of 2 m. brings us to the Honnedaga Lake Outlet. Here in a good log shanty, with a spring of ice-cold water near, we take lodging for the night, — perhaps adopt it for a permanent camp. In the morning one of our party throws a fly into the Outlet and immediately fastens a fine trout ; another goes to the Creek, but a step distant, with the same result. In half an hour trout enough for breakfast are steaming over the coals, with the boiling coffee alongside. The waters here are literally alive with trout. Half a mile above the Outlet, upon the other side of the Creek, the Metcalf comes tumbling and sparkling down over the moun- tains from Metcalf L. Up the Metcalf i ^ to 3 m. enter the outlets of the two Rock Lakes and Little Pine P., more beautiful than the pen can describe. One m. above, the outlet of Big Rock L. enters the Metcalf from the S., and perhaps j4 rn. farther up, the waters of a chain of 6 small lakes, N., are received. Starting again from the Outlet shanty, we follow a trail for about 1% m. to the mouth of Indian R., which enters the West Branch upon the E. side. Two m. up this is a lovely Stillwater, full of trout, and ex- tending over 1% m. At the head of this stream (4 m. farther) is Spruce L.; not much visited, because hard to reach. If we are adventurous we will go there, and be re- warded by fine sporting and charming scenery. The Metcalf and Rock Lakes are more noted as hunting grounds, than any other part of this locality. From the mouth of Indian R., bearing mainly N., the trail can be followed by a good woodsman ; if not such our compasses and the stream must be our guides. About 2$4 m. from Indian R. shanty, we come to the 4 m. Stillwater, extend- ing the distance its name implies. Here are larger fish than in the stream below. Otter Creek, flowing from Otter, Deer and Goose Lakes, lying N. E. of Jones L., (3 m. N. E. of Jock's L.) discharges into this Stillwater, (N.). Above, we strike the rocky rift fishing, and we can walk for miles in the bed of the stream upon huge rocks, which lie so closely together that we will scarcely wet our feet. Small streams, probably the outlets of small lakes enter MOUNTAIN HOME. 45 the Creek at intervals, mountains rising upon either side. We pass on the way " Madcap Violet," the outlet of Gull L. [N.], and finally Long Stillwater is spread before us. Beyond the most poetic visions of the woodland dreamer is the loveliness of this crystal stream. No man can stand beside it and not feel the inspiration that moulded the character of Isaak Walton — moving him to mighty deeds, piscatorial. Above this not much is known. There is an extravagantly beautiful stream filled with trout, extend- ing a great distance, and very trying to weak knees and empty stomachs. If we go farther we are apt to get lost; so let us return while return we may.* Starting again from the Upper Forks we cross the bridge to the right, at Nobleborough, and following the East Branch 4 m., arrive at Morehouseville, a mere hamlet, located about 80 rods from the stream upon the S. side. Two m. N. E. of this, and y 2 m. N. of the main road, is the Sportsman's Home; well entitled to the name. Good accommodations are furnished here at very mod- ate rates; and the proprietor, T. C. Remonda, [P. O. Morehouseville, Herkimer Co., N. Y.] officiates as guide. This little hotel (to be enlarged soon) is situated near the edge of the forest, within 20 r. of the East Branch of W. Canada Cr. and- at the base of the range of mts. rising N of this stream. Majestic peaks lift their summits in nearly every direction. The Big Meadow Mt. nearly 2000 ft. above tide; the range S. of "G" Lake; also a towering pinnacle in the vicinity of Lake Pleasant, are plainly visible from the house. From Remonda's to Griff Evans's, where the road branches for Honnedaga L., it is 6]4 ni.; to Wilkinson's, g*4 m.; to Prospect, 25^ m. In the opposite direction it is 8 m. to Piseco L., and 22 m. to Lake Pleasant. One m. E. of Remonda's at the termination of the branch road is "Matteson's Mountain Home," now owned by an associa- tion of gentlemen of Utica, who maintain it for themselves, and for the public. Their forest park embracing 3000 acres where lies concealed the glistening silver of many a lake, is •Several interesting mountains rise near Long Stillwater, one of which is very rocky and precipitous. 46 THE ADIRONDACKS. a most charming and interesting section of the Adiron- dacks, though comparatively unknown to the general tour- ist. (P. O. Morehouseville). The East Branch from the Forks up affords excellent fishing; indeed this applies to all the waters above Wilkin- son's ; for any kind of a fisherman will fill his basket in from 1 to 3 hours. Upon the N. side {2% m. from Sports- man's Home by road) is Wilmurt L., lying on the summit of Mad Tom Mt. 2700 ft. above the level of the sea, up which we climb in reaching this lovely trout-producing sheet (2 x 5^). As this is private property, none can fish here without special permission from the Mountain House Club. The outlet of this lake entering the E. Branch 3 m. distant, presents remarkable scenery through its entire course; first leaping down the mountain side with a fall of 500 ft. to the mile, and anon rushing wiih great velocity through deep and narrow canons whose walls of solid rock rise 20 to 30 ft. on either hand. Crossing Wilmurt L. (1 m.) we carry 1 m. N. W. to Snag L. {% x l /l) a pretty little pond, famous for its speckled trout ; thence 1 m. N. to Metcalf Creek, a cold, trout- stream; thence 1 m. N. to Little Rock L. {% x j£); thence % m. N. W. to Little Pine P. (^x^); thence 2 m. N. E. to Twin Rock L(^xJ(); thence 2 m. E. to Indian River Stillwater (Remonda's Camp); thence it is 1^ m. by boat to head of this Stillwater ; whence we carry 2 % m. N. E. to the wildly beautiful Spruce L. (2^ x %) 2,188 ft. above tide. From this it is 60 r. E. to Balsam L. {% x \i) ; and 2 m. N. W. to the West Branch (trail) ; whence it is 8 m. N. (trail) to the first of the Canada L's. From Spruce L. it is 12 m. S. E. by winter road to Piseco L., from which supplies are carried with team and sled to this sheet. Three m. from Spruce L. the route crosses Miami Cr., a source of Lewey L., and one of the finest of trout streams. From Remonda's Camp at Indian River Stillwater, it is V 2 m. S. to Eureka P. {y% x %), E. and S. E. of which are Cranberry and Deer P's, and " T " Lake. From Wilmurt L. it is ij^ m. E. (trail) to Big Rock L. (i/4 x 3£) which affords beautiful scenery, fair trout-fishing and good deer-hunting. Thence it is 2^ m. N. E. by WEST CANADA CREEK. 47 blind trail over a mountain to Metcalf L. (2 x )4), discov- ered half a century ago by Col. Metcalf, the chum of Nat. Foster and Jock Wright. As an exception to the general rule, this lake contains no speckled trout. The outlet, Metcalf Cr., dashes vehemently down the steep slopes of the mountain, frequently wearing its path through ferrugin- ous rocks and forming several picturesque waterfalls from 25 to 100 ft. high Those who visit Sportsman's Home, generally fish in Pine (t x Y^) 5 m. E. (2 m. by boat and 3 m. carry), and "G" (1 x %) Lakes, [t m. E. of Pine] upon the S. side of the stream and easily accessible. The former has 3 islands and is a most attractive sheet. Farther up the East Branch [8 m.] is a waterfall, 60 to 80 ft. in height, rivalling in beauty the more famous ones below. From Sportsman's Home to Spruce L. it is 12 m. N. E. by mere trail. To Morehouse L. it is 5 >4 m. S. E. To the Upper Stillwater on the E. Branch of the W. Canada, it is 8 miles N. E. via Pine L., by trail. This navigable Stillwater — 2 m. long — affords capital trouting. Two m. above its head and 5 m. N. E. of Pine L., are the supremely beautiful Walton Falls, 580 ft. in height, and affording with the wild surroundings, one of the sublimest spectacles the region offers. Midway between the Stillwater and the falls, are found natural " ice- houses," where, between the numerous rocks, ice constant- ly abounds. Now let us return via Wilkinson's to the Forks proper, or junction of West Canada with Black Creek. It is worthy of remark, that none of the lakes which form West Canada Creek, neither any tributary nor the Creek itself, contain salmon trout. Not so, however, upon either side; for all the lakes of any size forming Black R., as also all those feeding the Sacondaga upon the S. E. abound with them. No good trouting will be found in Black Creek below Gray. The stream here is sluggish, falling only about 5 ft. between Pardeeville, 1 m. above Grant, and the Emory farm, 3 miles above that. This portion contains many bull- heads, dace, suckers, and a very few speckled trout. Above Gray we strike good trout fishing, both in the stream itself, the numerous lakes that compose it, and their outlets. The trout however are much smaller than those caught in 4 8 THE ADIRONDACKS. the West Canada— not so slim and silvery and with meat more red. Mount Creek, outlet of Mount L., and W.orden s Creek, flowing with its- 2 branches from N. Branch L., Mud, Wor- den'sand Jerseyfield Lakes [zj4 x 2] enter Black Creek between Grant and Gray . [N] * Two m. above Gray at the Alfred Bly place, we find accommodations, guides, &c, and are directed to excellent sport ; an hour's walk from the house taking us, in nearly every direction to superior fishing-grounds. Care should be taken in this locality to keep direct bearings, for the woods are cut up in every direction by bark roads, running generally in circles, which are well calculated to mislead the unwary. To sum this country up, the best fishing, as well as the most romantic scenery of all these streams, is to be found upon the West Branch of West Canada Creek. Here a man will form an attachment for the handiwork of Nature, which will never leave him ; and if his days should be pro- longed to even four score, he will revisit this place again and again in his dreams, and will find himself over and over longing for a chance to cast a fly once more upon its rippling, dancing waters, and to feel the tug of the spotted beauties at his hook. The house of Ed. Wilkinson is the magic key unlocking all these enchantments, as he can best inform you where to go to receive the greatest amount of enjoyment in the smallest space of time. Write to him and you will always find him punctual at every time and place. [P. O., Wilmurt, Herkimer Co., N. V.] Here let us say that any parties desiring guides who can be relied upon for this whole section, and for ihjir knowledge of the woods, their skill in cooking, shanty building, etc., will do well to write to " Geo. Wright, Norway, Herkimer Co.," or to "A. E. Jones, Prospect, Oneida Co.," to meet them at Wilkinson's or Prospect. - And those desirous of exploring the East Branch of the West Canada, or the neighboring lakes, ponds and streams, should secure the services of T. C. Remonda, who as a guide and companion, has perhaps no superior in the entire Wilderness. But sportsmen visit- " Prospect to Grant, 5 m.; Graj', 7 in.; Mud L., 8 m.; Jerseyfield L., 2 m. Total, 22 m. 12 V Jm. 5 (( 4 (t 3 (( 10 it REMSEN. 49 ing this section, will regard the boundaries of The Adirondack League Club, as their preserve is private property. ROUTES FROM WILKINSON'S TO THE STILLWATERS AND HEADWATERS OF WEST CANADA CREEK. [i.] Wilkinson's to Indian R. via stream, Indian R. [mouth] to foot of Lower Stillwater, Lower Stillwater, .... Rift between Stillwaters, - Long Stillwater, Head of L'g Stillwater to ist Canada L.via. stream, 1 1 Total, - - - 45V2 [2.] Wilkinson's to Honnedaga Lake, Carry thence to foot of Lower Stillwater, Lower Stillwater, Rift between Stillwaters, Long Stillwater, .... Head of Long Stillwater to ist Canada L., (Or follow trail leading from Wilson's Camp over a mountain, 6 m.) Total, ... . 4S 1^ " The latter is the favorite route. Good trails have recently been made from point to point. Third: — From Remsen* to Bellingertown, 10 m.; thence to Dawson's old place, 7 m. ; North Lake, 5 m. ; South Lake, 2 m.; thence to Honnedaga L., 3^ m. Road, rather rough, but interesting, as for about 11 m. it leads through a forest nearly primitive. Parties ride to South Lake and the take boats to the head, whence a road leads to Honnedaga Lake \_i3/i m.] The same localities may be visited from Remsen by the way of Prospect [2 m.] or via Wilkinson's [16 m.]. Travelers, at the outset, are provided with suita- ble quarters at Hotel Bristol, Remsen. In fact, some tarry here for days and weeks, as it is a pleasant summer resort. •Bemsen was named from Henry Remsen, Patentee of Remsen burg. 5 14 V ! m 3 tt 4 i* 3 u 10 11 tt 50 THE ADIRONDACKS. In the vicinity is the monument of Baron Steuben. To this cele- brated Prussian officer, the Legislature granted, in 1786, 16,000 acres in the town of Steuben (so named in his honor) for his distinguished services in the Revolutionary War. He had spent his entire fortune in clothing the soldiers and gave them his last dollar. He located on his land soon afterward, erected a log house, and collected * colony of ten- ants ; but did not live to see his contemplated improvements carried into effect. He was stricken with paralysis Nov. 25, 1799, and died three days after. He was wrapped in his military cloak and laid in the earth, with his star of knighthood upon his breast. — (Fr. Gaz.) Starr's Hill is also near Remsen. Its summit affords an admirable survey of Lake Ontario, and of a broad expanse of territory reaching into the great North Woods. Sea- shells have been found on the crown. Since the completion of the Adirondack & St. Law- rence Railway, Remsen has become an important point of entrance to the Great Forest. By this romantic line of travel, the tourist is enabled to reach conveniently the most charming and popular resorts in the entire region; includ- ing the far-famed Fulton Chain, Beaver River, Childwold Park, T upper Lakes, Saranac Lakes, Lake Placid, Paul Smith's, Rainbow and Loon Lakes. From this line, also, may be reached by boat or stage, Long, Raquette and Blue Mt. Lakes and Keene Valley. Distances from Remsen to M alone, via Adirondack &* St. Lawrence R. R. MILES. To Honnedaga, - . 4 " Forestport, 8 " White Lake, - ,5 " Otter Lake, 20 " McKeever (Moose River), 22 " Fulton Chain, ("Arnold's"), 30^ " Big Moose Lake, - 41 x^ " Beaver River, ... e " Little Rapids,* . . $ 2 y 2 " Ne-ha-sa-ne (Ne-ha-sa-ne and Lila Lakes),* 59^ " Bog Lake, - ... 63 * Ne-ha-sa-ne and Little Rapids are private stations In Dr. Webb's Ne-ha- sa-ne Park. ALDER CREEK. 5 I To Horseshoe Pond (wagon road to LongLake,i6 m.) 72 Childwold, - - - • 79}i Tupper Lake Junction, - - - 86 Saranac Inn, .... 101 Lake Clear (June. Saranac Branch), - - 104 Paul Smith's, - - - - 109 Rainbow Lake, - - - - 1 1 1 j4 Lake Kushaqua (Round Pond), - - n6j^ Loon Lake, ----- i2oj£ Mountain View (State Dam), - - 132^ Malone, ..... 145 j£ Fourth : — From Alder Creek Station to Alder Creek Cor- ners [Thurston's Hotel], j4 m > thence to Forestport [Sher- man and Getman Houses], 2 m.; Bellingertown, 6 m.; where the route joins the one starting from Remsen, leading to North, South and Honnedaga Lakes; or from Forestport to White Lake Corners [Studor's Hotel], 6 m., a road diverges here to White Lake, i}£ m. N. W. — [Hulser's Hotel]; John Landson's place, 3 m.; Woodhull Lake, 8 m. Total, 19^ m. (Herrig House; P. O., White Lake Corners.) Forestport and White Lake Corners are stations on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. Cincinnati L. and Otter L. (on same line) are a short distance N. of White Lake. HEAD-WATERS OF BLACK RIVER.* Lying between the head waters of Moose R., on the N., and the West Canada on the S. and E., are several exten- sive chains of lakes and streams finding their outlet event- ually in Black R. at the head of the State feeder, in the town of Forestport, Oneida Co. The largest of these lakes is the Woodhull, at the head of the stream of that name which enters Black R. at Forestport. This lake has been appropriated by the State as a feeder to the Black R. Canal, and through that channel to the Erie, on the long * Black R. (Ind. Ka-hu-a-go, ''great or wide river") rises In Herkimer Co. and alter flowing 108 m., empties Into Black River Bay, at the loot ol Lake Ontario. The water ol Its most Important tributaries Is discolored by organic matter, Iron, etc., giving the main stream an Inky hue, which originated Its name. Its head-branches nearly interlock with those ol Hudson River and West Canada Creek. 52 THE ADIRONDAGKS. level between Utica and Syracuse. It has been raised 20 ft. by a dam at the outlet — a substantially built structure — and sets back sufficiently to take in what was formerly known as Wolf L. at the W. end, forming now part of the reservoir. The whole sheet including Wolf L. is 5 m. long and has an area of 1,236 acres. The water of this reser- voir is never drawn upon except in the driest times. So great is its body, that a draft from the flood gates lowers the lake only about 2 inches in 24 hours. The lake once lowered to the flood gates requires 2 years to refill. It has no large streams for its source, the supply coming only from springs and small rills. Woodhull has long been a favorite lake for salmon or lake trout, and sometimes they are caught of great size. Wolf L. is noted for large fish. There are also speckled trout in Woodhull L., but they are generally in deep water and are not often caught except at baited buoys. There is a house at the dam kept by the reservoir tender during the season of canal navigation only, where accommodations may be found, but superior enter- tainment is furnished by the Herrig House near head of the lake. There are also camps on the N. shore occupied through the sporting season. From the Herrig House, on the same side, is a carry leading to the Fulton Chain. It strikes the famous S. Branch of Moose R. i*4 m. N., just below the Ox Bow, then passes W. to the river, near the foot of 3 Mile Stillwater, navigable for row boats. At the head of this Stillwater, the trail strikes northeasterly about 2 m. to Panther L.; thence }£ m - N - t0 little Moose L., and crossing this sheet we strike an old path of 5^ m. which ends at First L. of the Fulton Chain, about opposite Dog Island. It will be seen that access to Woodhull L. is far from difficult. From Alder Creek to White Lake Corners (8^ m.) on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway, the road is in good condition. Here turning to the E. it crosses Bear Creek, and continues 11 m. to the Woodhull dam. The larger part of this is a State road, generally kept in fair traveling order. The time of travel from Alder Creek to the dam is usually about 6 hours. A few rods below Woodhull L. [S.] is Mud L. \}/ 2 x #] and a little farther [S.] Sand L. \*/ A x }£] both belonging HEAD-WATERS OF BLACK RIVER. 53 to the Woodhull Chain. Sand L. is also dammed up for a reservoir, setting the water back into Mud L. These lakes were formerly excellent fishing grounds, but the overflow has greatly injured angling. Lake and speckled trout are, however, still caught by diligent fishermen. A few miles below Sand L. is Chub L., having a long in- let of Stillwater. Here are some excellent spring holes, and the lake itself has some speckled trout. Little Wood- hull L. lies S. E. of Chub L. Its outlet is the Little Wood- hull Stream entering Woodhull Creek near its mouth. Little Woodhull L is remarkable for its beautiful sandy beach extending around the lake. It was formerly a favor- ite resort of deer. Much hunting, however, has driven them farther back in the woods. The next lakes of importance in this section are North and South Lakes, connecting with corresponding branches of Black R. They are approached from the railroad set- tlements by wagon roads from Prospect, Remsen and Ald- er Creek station. (See pp. 35,49.51.) The distance to North L. from these places is from 20^ to 22 m.; and to South L., 2 m. farther. The reservoir keeper has a comfortable two-story frame house, with a pleasant piazza at North L., which by force of circumstances has become a hotel; ac- commodating a dozen guests. (P. O Forestport.) The road, especially the last 5 m., is generally bad. The dam- ming of these lakes has raised the water in each 20 ft., greatly marring the surrounding scenery. There are no game-fish in North L. except at the head, where enter the North Branch (really Black R.) and two smaller streams. Here in August may be caught some good speckled trout. Lake trout fry were put into this lake several years ago, but do not seem to have prospered, as no fish of the kind are taken. As the lake is mostly made waters, it is proba- ble that the foul bottom caused by the new flow line, is not favorable to fish development. Horn L., 7 m. N. E., is reached by trail. Two miles below North L , on Black R., is a Stillwater containing a number of fine spring holes. Here from the first of June to August is found good speckled trout-fish- ing. The fish generally are of good size and very gamy. Fair accommodations for a limited party may be obtained 54 THE ADIRONDACK^. at Reed's, [Dawson's old place] on the road to, and 5 m. W. of North L. where Otter Creek enters Black R. At the road-crossing near this spot, is a spring remarkable for the coldness of its water. It is like ice-water, even in the hot- test days of summer. The spring issues from the bank of the river, and comes evidently from a source of great depth — doubtless some deep mountain gorge filled with snow and ice most of the year. From the head of North L. a trail leads to Canachagala L., 3 m. N.; and a road from South L. to Honnedaga L., 1^ m. N. (See p. 40.) Between the Woodhull waters and those of North and South Lakes, just described, is a chain of lakes lying up- wards of 2,000 feet above tide water, known as the "Bisbys." They were discovered by a hunter and trapper bearing this name. It is said that one day while on Woodhull, he heard the call of a loon, — such a call as this bird gives when on water, which is different from its note in flight. He followed in the direction of the cry, and found Upper or First Bisby (1 x $4). Surely, he found "a joy forever" when he struck this charming sheet. Its beauty is a theme for the inspiration of poets. The lake is a prolonged oval, with high rocky bluffs on the N. shore, and several beauti- ful bays at the lower end. A few rods below, and separated from it by a short inlet only, is another lake of larger size, called Second Bisby (iyi x %); totally different in contour and setting, but scarcely less beautiful than its lovely sis- ter, containing a number of wooded islands and several weird bays. Tumbling into this lake over a single rock, 20 feet in height, come the waters of Chamber L. Nothing but this rock keeps the water from emptying out like an overturned bowl. Chamber L. is a sheet of considerable size, just showing itself at the rock outlet, and then hiding back in the woods. There is a Third, somet'mes styled Rugged L., (0 x yi) and a Fourth Bisby, (1 x j{) below those described, but neither have the beauty of the 2 upper lakes. The waters of the 3 upper lakes are cut off from their natural outlet at Third L., where the State has caused a dam to be built to turn the water through a ravine into Sand L. The natural outlet flows into Woodhull Stream. The remarkable feature of the Bisbys, is the peculiar n ■x > BISBV CLUB. 55 kind of trout they contain. They are a species of the lake trout, but quite different in form and quality from those of the other lakes in the Wilderness. They are long in body, with small heads and mouths, black-backed and silver- bellied. Their flesh is entirely white and of surpassing delicacy. They are hard and firm, and have the best keep- ing qualities when out of water of any variety of the trout- family known. They run generally from y£ of a pound to a pound in weight, and are very rarely of larger size. In 1877 one was caught with rod and line, which weighed 3^ lbs. ; another 2 y 2 ; but these were exceptional weights and may not be seen again in many years. The peculiar char- acter of this fish is attributable to the extraordinary purity of the Bisby waters, and the excellence of the food they contain. These lakes have hard sand or gravel bottoms, and are supposed to produce some animal or vegetable substance especially adapted for fish food. The Bisby trout, except on a few days in the month of May, are caught only in deep water, at bouys baited with cut fish.* During the last 2 weeks in May, they may be taken at even- ing with rod and line, small pieces of dace or shiners being used for bait. They will not take artificial flies. Just as the sun disappears behind the western hills, they may be seen rising all over the lake. At nine or ten they subside into deep water and are not seen again till sunset of the next day. One mile E. of Upper Bisby, the peerless Canachagala, {ii/i x 1) — lake of the green promontory and the rocky islands, situated almost up in the clouds — lies like a sleep- ing beauty in its mountain cradle, wrapped in a drapery of softest tinted foliage. The name is an Indian one, signify- ing "rocky lake, or rocks in the water." It lies in a ravine of rocks, the latter forming the most romantic surround- * A buoy is simply a small log anchored to water from 40 to 100 feet to depth, by means ol a stone and rope or cable formed of strips of bark tied together. Around this floating log, chubs, shiners, minnows, etc^ cut into small pieces, are thrown morning and evening, for a day or two, producing a sort of rendezvous or feeding ground for trout or other fish. Altei wai 1 as- say 12 or 24 hours-the fisherman repairs to the spot, and after fastening his boat to the buoy, generally succeeds, with a long toe anfl a large hook baited with a minnow, to capturing a satisfactory quantity of the portly feU lows that have been feasting on the food he has furnished them. Caie should be taken, however, not to overfeed the fish, or they may become so gorged they will not take the bait. g6 THE ADIRONDACKS. ings. The lake is a tributary of the S. Branch of Moose R. The outlet enters this stream at the famous Canacha- gala Spring Hole, 5 m. from where it leaves the lake. For early fishing, this sheet has much repute. Its lake trout are seldom large, but are of excellent quality, and in the season are lively biters. The speckled trout, too, are numerous and gamy; though in the summer months they keep near the bottom, where they find plenty of food suited to their tastes, and seem little inclined to test the angler's bait. The Bisby waters and a considerable portion of those adjacent, have been appropriated by a club of gentlemen,* holding them by a lease from the owners of the Moose River Tract, in which they lie. Their lease covers 7,000 acres and extends from Moose R. on the N. to Lake Can- achagala on the S., and by an L takes in the Bisby Chain and a part of Sand and Woodhull Lakes. It contains some of the best hunting and fishing grounds in the Wilderness, and being so accessible from the populated center of the State, is regarded as a very valuable sportsmens' preserve. The Club is incorporated. The membership is confined to 25 persons, residing mostly in Oneida County. It is formed on the " Tontine" plan. There is no transfer of membership or interest, but on the death or withdrawal of any member, his interest passes to the company. The membership fee is $50, and this, with an annual assessment that cannot exceed this sum, pays all the expenses. The Club has erected an extensive range of buildings at the First or Upper Bisby, one of which is said to be the largest and best log house ever erected in this State. f It is 44 feet long by 22 deep, and 2 stories high, with a broad piazza extending across the whole front. Its sides and floors are all of hewn logs, and its roof, of shingles made on the spot. It is situated only 100 feet back of the lake and commands a water view to the head. It has a good landing-place, a large ice-house, and several excellent boats are at hand. A road connects it with the head of Woodhull L., (1^ m.) * Gen. Hlchard U. Sherman, ex-sec'y of the Commission of Fisheries, a vet- eran woodsman, is Its President. The acknowledgments of the author are due to Gen. Sherman for important materials furnished by him regarding the Headwaters of Black Elver. t The " Adirondack Lodge " at Clear Pond is perhaps, an exception. A. L. C. Ensign In May, 1893, the flag of the Adirondack League Club was raised over Bisby Lodge, the two Clubs having consolidated under the name of the larger organization. All the property of the Bisby Club was deeded to the Adirondack League, and the members of the former became members of the latter. The League has now, there- fore, three excellent club houses, Mountain Lodge, Bisby Lodge and Forest Lodge, each furnishing to the members a peculiar attraction. The Bisby Club conveyed 320 acres of land, containing their club house, hatchery, and the First Bisby lake, as well as their leases of 7,000 acres more adjoining. (For Adirondack League Club, see pp. 36-48.) (56) BOONVILLE. 57 whence communication with the dam (4 m.) is had by a large keel boat, owned by the Club. Thence it is 11 m. to White Lake Corners, on A. & St. L. R. R. (See p. 51.) The Club has, by its trails and boats, easy communication with all the best hunting and fishing grounds within a cir- cuit of many miles. As before noted, one and a half miles beyond Woodhull is Moose River, where excellent sporting may be found; and 6 m. farther in the same direction is Old Forge. This was the first of the three roads that John Brown, the own- er of the " Tract," opened to the settlements, which ter- minated at Remsen. From the Forge to Woodhull Lake it is now mostly overgrown with trees and only a hunter's trail indicates its course. Parties will always find men in readiness at the different villages named on the line of the railroads to convey them to all the lakes thus far noted, where boats can invariably be procured. Fifth : — Boonville* is a pleasant and flourishing village 35 m. from Utica, possessing a large country trade. With- in 1 Yt, m. of it, in different directions, are gas and sulphur springs, and the surrounding scenery is varied and inter- esting. It is one of the main depots on the R. W. & O. R. R. Boonville has long been a popular point of entrance to the " Hunters' Paradise." The people of that village unite in making welcome and aiding pleasure parties. There men can be found who have passed the greater part of their lives in the woods, who know exactly what the tourist needs and what he should leave behind. There guides, horses and conveyances are to be obtained on short notice or on demand, unless the demand prove too great. There is lo- cated the Hurlburt House, which for the last 50 or 60 years has been the rallying point of pilgrims to the Wilderness; where they have planned their trips, and where they have returned to celebrate their success with rod and rifle. The flavor of trout and venison is as natural to the place as fragrance to a rose. Many of our readers whose steps •It derived its name from Garret Boon who made the first settlement there in 1T93, under the auspices oi the Holland Land Co. It was first called "Boon's Upper or Black .River Settlement." Boon proposed to make maple sugar all the year round 11 he found it profitable. 5 8 THE ADIRONDACKS. are feeble and whose heads are gray, will recall with a smile and a sigh, the days when "Dick" Hurlburt, most genial of landlords, dealt hospitality with a generous hand, and when they told the story of their exploits by his blazing fire. Richard Hurlburt will never again give words of cheer or advice to hunter or fisher ; but the Hurlburt House still remains, and under its present able manage- ment is as popular as ever. Parties desiring to have horses, guides, or rooms engaged, or any other arrangement made for them in advance, should address Hurlburt House, Boonville, or Forge House, Old Forge, N. Y. Sometimes a stage leaves Boonville daily for Moose River (i2}4 m.) where connection is made with trains on The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. Distances from Boonville to Raquette Lake :* Boonville to Moose River, - "5* miles. Thence to "Arnold's," (8J^ m, by R. R.) "# tt (t " Old Forge, (Fulton Chain) 2 (i d Moose River, - 2^ u it First Lake, - - i*A a u Second Lake, 1 ** if Inlet, - 20 rods. (I Third Lake, I mile. (( Inlet, - % <( tt Fourth Lake, 6 <( u Inlet, - X a (( Fifth Lake, - Va u tt Portage, - % tt l< Sixth Lake, yi ** (1 Inlet, . i u (( Seventh Lake, - 2 (( (1 Inlet, - lit a a Portage, 1% it n Eighth Lake, - *x ft a Portage, *x it a Brown Tract Inlet, - 4 tt Total, (about) - 52^ a * Route, lo Woodhvll Lakes.— Boonville to Hawklnsvllle, 3 m.: White Lake Corners, T m.; Woodhull Lake, 11 m.; total, 21 m. Koad good to White Lake Corners. ''Arnold's." 59 Several miles from Boonville, after ascending occasional sand-hills, the road enters a partially wooded region ; and when the traveler arrives at Moose R. (12^ m.) with an appetite sharpened to a razor-like keenness, by the joltings he has received while passing over the several patches of corduroy occurring on the way, he is ready to dispose of the excellent dinner that awaits his coming at the Hunter's Inn located here (Moose River House). The houses of the small settlement now called Moose River Village, were mostly occupied by the families of the employees en- gaged in the mammoth tannery of H. J. Botchford, located at this place, said to be the largest in the State, but which is not in operation now. (Road hence to Botchford's old Tannery, 15 m., from which it is 43^ m. to Otter -Lake ) Moose River (Ind.: Tz-ka-hun-di-an do, "clearing an opening") is twice as large as West Canada Creek, and is very rapid. The scenery along the most of its course is celebrated for its wildness and beauty. From its principal sources, the " North and South Branch " and the noted Fulton chain of "Eight Lakes," it flows from Hamilton Co., S. W. across Herkimer into Lewis, where it empties into Black River, just above Lyons's Falls. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. crosses Moose R. a short distance above Moose River Village (McKeever Station). The angler might spend several days to advantage at Moose River, whipping that and the neighboring waters for trout. (Nelson's L. is only 2^ m. N. E., on the R. R.) Below this point the stream is unnavigable, being broken by falls and rapids. But enterprising sportsmen some- times pass with boats in the opposite direction — by carry- ing around the several rapids that intervene — as far as Old Forge (18% m.) whence they pursue their journey through the Eight Lakes and beyond. Those familiar with this particular route, will be pleased to learn that a bridge now spans the river here, obviating the necessity of fording or ferrying, as in former times. Reaching the N. bank the serious part of the excursion be- gins. The road hence to "Arnold's" (iJ/^ m.) has long been noted for its outrageous roughness; and probably the observation once made by Judge Stow of Lewis Co., that "this section presented such a forbidding aspect it would 6 THE ADIRONDACKS. make a crow shed tears of blood to fly over it," had refer- ence to this abominable highway. But fortunately it has been greatly improved of late; so much so, that ladies now ride the entire distance on a "buck-board," (Phelps's stage). Some, however, still prefer the old-time mode of transport by pack-horses. It is stated by veracious witnesses that an increase of beauty and appetite is the invariable result of such a trip.* Two m. beyond the "Tannery" the branch road starts (1.) for Otter L Tannery, via Copper L. (2^ m.) and other interesting waters described in Route 7th. Another branches r. leading to "Jones's Camp" on Moose R., 7 m. And from a point about 60 rods beyond the "6 mile tree" (one of the woodman's mile-stones used on this route) a path leads (r.) to the famous Middle Clear- ing Spring Hole on Moose R., 1^ m. The same spot is reached from Old Forge House down the stream 10 or n m. Only one portage of 5 rods around rapids, is required. When within 2% miles of "Arnold's," by turning to the right from the road and proceeding 20 or 30 rods, Hell Gate Lakes, two secluded little ponds, 30 or 40 rods apart, may be visited. One mile S. W. of them lies another small lake; Wheeler's. The memory of "Arnold's" — long since deserted — is dear to the hearts of the members of the old Walton Club, and hundreds of others, who have enjoyed the shelter of the house. "The old Retreat has outlived its usefulness, and is now falling to pieces from gradual decay. Worms find a home in its rotting timbers, and horses and cattle find pro- tection from the inclemency of the weather beneath its roof. To what an ignoble use have these historic walls been dedicated ! How many merry gatherings have its timbers witnessed ! How many jolly songs and cheery laughters have its primitive walls re-echoed ! Alas, never more will its dumb sides resound the hearty jokes that went round in those early days when few drank in the beauties of this famous sporting ground." "The Adirondack & St. Lawrence E. It. crosses the Arnoia Clearing, and now renders it unnecessary to take this tedious journey; and it offers easy ac- cess to this famed locality. An omnibus from 013 Forge House, 2 in. dis- tant; awaits passengers at this station ("Arnold's" or "Fulton Chain") and conveys them to that resort. Fare, 35 cts. "JOHN BROWN'S TRACT." 6 I N. and E. of it the country is as wild as on the day when Christopher Columbus shipped his baggage for America. It will be seen that the Arnold place has a history. In 1792, Alexan- der Macomb, a fur trader from Detroit, purchased of the State of New York, 3,670,715 acres of land for which he agreed to pay about seven- teen cents an acre. This purchase embraced a large portion of Herki- mer, a small part of Hamilton, and nearly the whole of Lewis, Jeffer- son, St. Lawrence and Franklin counties. Wm. Constable and Daniel McCormick were equally interested with Macomb in this purchase. Soon after this grant was secured, Macomb becoming insolvent from his losses in the "Million Bank" speculation, Constable became the princi- pal owner of this vast tract. Aaron Burr was indirectly interested in this operation and according to Dr. Hough, the means he took to get released from Constable showed him to be a polished scoundrel. In 1794, Jas. Greenleaf bought 210,000 acres of this land which he was obliged to mortgage within a year to Philip Livingston for $38,000. Subsequently he gave a second mortgage to other parties, including' John Brown, a wealthy merchant and capitalist of Providence, R. I.* In 1798, Greenleaf, having utterly failed to make the proper payments, the foreclosure of the first mortgage occurred, and the entire tract was struck off at the sale to John Brown for $80,000, thus costing him about 38 cents an acre. "John Brown's Tract" was long popularly regarded as the whole New York Wilderness; whereas it comprises only about T \- part of that region. Superficially it is 18 miles square and it lies mostly in Herkimer, though it reaches into Lewis and touches Hamil- ton county. John Brown first visited his forest estate in 1799, when he had it surveyed and divided into 8 townships named as follows: No. 1, Industry; 2, Enterprise; 3. Perseverance; 4, Unanimity; 5, Frugality; 6, Sobriety; 7, Economy; 8, Regularity. It has been said that all these social virtues are needed for the settlement of this region. Brown also then made a clearing at No. 7, (Old Forge) to which he opened three roads, (one leading from Remsen, another from Boonville, and a third from High [Lyons'] Falls,) erected a saw and grist-mill and a few log houses, one of which was immediately occupied by his agent and his family. Brown continued to make- annual visits to his tract — though these journeys over the rough roads were toilsome enough — till 1803, when his death occurred. But little, at this date, had been accom- plished in the way of improving these wild lands. In 1812, Charles F. Herreshoff, a son-in-law of John Brown, a hand- some and accomplished gentleman, went to the tract, full of visionary schemes of founding a magnificent colonial estate, declaring he would settle the same or settle himself. The sequel proved that he did the lat- ter. He proceeded with commendable enterprise to repair the mills his father-in-law had built, to clear nearly 2,000 acres, and re-open the roads to the settlements; and he induced 30 or 40 families to locate on what he called The Manor. He established a sheep farm and stocked it with 300 of the choicest merinos and some high blooded cattle. This, * This name should not be taken for that o£ the slave liberator,. Jolm Brown, ot Harper's Ferry renown. (,2 THE ADIRONDACKS. his first project, proved a failure. He next opened a mine, erected huge smelting works, and in process of time succeeded in manufactur- ing a ton of iron of good quality which cost him one dollat a pound ! Here for seven years he remained, expending large sums of money in prospecting for iron and making improvemen:s which brought him no productive returns. Finally, when his fortune was entirely exhausted, he drew upon his friends in Providence where his wife still remained, for more funds to enable him to continue his operations. The draft was dishonored; and stung with mortification and disappointment over the- result of his unfortunate ventures, and in view of the utter ruin before him, he committed suicide. It is said that the day before his death he made preparations for going to Providence, and gave particular orders for his men to go out the next morning after he left and fill up a large hole that had been dug for ore. Before commencing their labor, one of them went down to see if any tools had been left ; and at the bottom he found Herreshoff who had secreted himself there for the purpose of be-, ing buried alive ! The next day, Dec. igth, 1819, he accomplished his object by a pistol shot. Soon after this tragic occurrence, the settlement was entirelv deserted and the improvements went rapidly to decay; though the land was held by the Brown family till about 1850, when ii was purchased by Lyman R. Lyons and others.* In 1832, Nat. Foster, the redoubtable trapper and hunter, leased the Herreshoff mansion and occupied it with his family for three or four years. Near him dwelt an Indian hunter by the name of Peter Waters, (familiarly called Drid) with whom he frequently quar- reled. As he was passing up the stream one day in a canoe, at a place since called Indian Point, just below First Lake, Foster waylaid and shot him dead. For this murder he was tried, but acquitted on the plea that the act was committed in self-defence, (?) the Indian having re- peatedly threatened his life. Uncle Nat. immediately removed to an- other locality. Another hunter, Otis Arnold, with his wife and one child, took pos- session of this lonely forest home in 1838. Here for 30 years he kept the place as a kind of farm-hostelry; rearing in the meantime a large family of children, some of whom became famous guides. But this fated locality was destined again to be the scene of a dire tragedy. In Sept, 1868, Arnold became involved in a desperate quarrel in his house with a guide named James Short, of Warrensburg. Frenzied with an- ger, he suddenly seized his gun and discharged it with fatal effect, Short dying 5 hours afterwards. Instantly overwhelmed with the keenest re- morse, the wretched man proceeded to Nick's Lake (named after "Trapper Nick"), J)4 m. distant, and after filling his pockets with stones and fastening a large one to his neck, entered a boat, paddled to the upper center, and cast himself into its depths, thus ending his life. In justice to the memory of Otis Arnold, it should be stated that until this hapless incident occurred he had led a spotless life; and many still remember him as a man of the most generous impulses, though doubt- less possessed of a fiery temper. Should we not then be charitable in judging this ill fated man, who never harmed a single fellow creature * Lyons bought 60,000 acres. See Lyons Falls ; Roue Seventh. THE OLD FORGE. 63 until in a fit of ungovernable rage, he committed this unpremeditated homicide ?* His son, Ed. N. Arnold, continued to run the house as a sportsman's hotel till its abandonment many years since. From "Arnold's" the tourist may either follow the smooth and pleasant road to the Forge (2 m.) or proceed 50 or 60 rods E. to Moose River, and gain the same point by boat (4^ m.). From the old bridge where the road crosses the river, j£ m. beyond "Arnold's," a good portage extends 1 m. S. E. to Nick's Lake, one of the prettiest sheets in these woods. It is only about ij^ m. long, but its shores are so serrated with bays and promontories, that it is some 6 m. around it. Trout are plentiful in its waters, which empty into Moose River. Its east inlet flows from a charming little pond, hardly three boat-lengths distant. Two and a half miles S. of Nick's L. is another beautiful lochan, called Rock Pond; well supplied with speckled trout. Above the bridge 15^ m. the N. Branch enters the river, 1. By di- verging from the main stream and following this branch for about 2y 2 : m. {i}4 m. from "Arnold's" by path,) the "In- dian Spring Hole," a celebrated trout resort is reached. Gibbs' Lake, lying r j^ m. farther N. is accessible from it by path. From that it is 3 m. N. (blazed linef) to Lower Safford L.; and 1^ m. S. E. (line) to North Branch, from which it is ij£ m. to Old Forge. Gibbs' L. has furnished great catches of trout. There are nearly a dozen nameless ponds lying between Old Forge and the course of the North Branch. At Old Forge, on a slight elevation that slopes gradually to the water — an extended reach of which it overlooks — stands the large and commodious Forge House. When tourists are reminded that they are here afforded 10 or 12 m. of boating in either direction ; that they can descend * The story of Arnold's suicide was doubted by some, who professed to be- lieve he lived many years afterwards. We do not give this credence. + A "blazed line" In the nomenclature of the woods, Is a route through the pathless forest Indicated by marked trees. A broad chip having teen cut with the ax or hatchet from conspicuous trees on both of the Inner sides of our course within every rod or two, the white surface thus exposed instant- ly catches the eye as we pass along, and if sufficiently observing, we will have no difficulty in keeping the proper route. 64 THE ADIRONDACKS. Moose River 10 or 11 m. before they encounter any serious falls or rapids ; or can pass upwards from one beau- tiful lake to another, until the farther extremity of Fourth Lake is reached ; and 1 2 delightful miles can be traveled without a single interruption to the even tenor of their meditations of a wearisome carry, none will fail to pro- nounce this location a most appropriate one for a forest inn. Ladies, especially, will note its superior attractions as a summer resort. The steam yacht Fulton makes 2 trips daily through the first four lakes, landing at the dif- ferent private and public camps located on their shores. Fare, $1.00. From the Forge House it is 1 y 2 m. N. W. fair carry, to North Branch. Here we strike the Gibbs's clearing, whence it is 1 fy m. N. W. (marked line) to Gibbs's L. {% x %). In this wild place, when the Forge was in full blast, Mr. Gibbs located and undertook to wring a livelihood from the soil. But he soon found that there was nothing to encourage agricultural development ; for with the excep- tion of potatoes and oats, nothing as food for man or beast could be produced. And such has been the experience of nearly all who have attempted to settle in the Great Wil- derness. From this point it is 2 m. up the N. Branch (stillwater) to the noted Gibbs's Spring Hole, N. side. From here up the stream to First L. (N. Branch) it is about 8 m. Boating is very difficult, as we must carry over or around some 25 flood-jams on the route. But the enterprising angler who makes the trip will be rewarded by some of the most re- markable trouting that the region affords. From Gibbs's clearing it is 3 m. down the stream to In- dian Spring Hole, before noted. This is where a little stream discharges its icy waters into the river on the N. side. Barrels of trout have been seen in this wonderful pool at one time—even lying in tiers. Hence down the N. Branch (encountering a portage of 30 rods around the falls, just below Indian Spring Hole) it is 2% m. to the main stream (Middle Branch) up which it is 2 m. to Old Forge. Parties going up the river from "Jones's Camp" (Minnehaha; on Moose R. 8 m. above Moose River Vil- THE EIGHT LAKES. 65 lage) to Fulton Chain, must carry 60 rods around the rapids and dam at Old Forge. Two authors of Adirondack books, whose works on this subject we have perused with great pleasure, allude to John Brown's Tract in terms of exaggerated severity. One speaks of it as "the most repulsive portion of the entire re- gion." To say the least, the expression was carelessly chosen. While it is true that the scenery of the western portion of the Wilderness is inferior in mountain grandeur to that of the eastern side, yet its more numerous gleaming waters display equally enchanting attractions. Where with- in the limits of the Adirondacks can be found a brighter array of glittering links than the Fulton Chain ?* Where a more lovely sheet than Lake Lila or the ideal Canachagala ? Headley manifested his true appreciation of this section when he wrote the following : — "The Eight Lakes are connected by streams, and form a group of surpassing beauty. They vary, both in size and shape, each with a different frame-work of hills, and the change is ever from beauty to beauty. "There they repose like a bright chain in the forest, the links connected by silver bars. You row slowly through one to its outlet, and then entering a clear stream over- hung with bushes, or fringed with lofty trees, seem to be suddenly absorbed by the wilderness. At length, however, you emerge as from a cavern, and lo! an untroubled lake, with all its variations of coasts, timber and islands, greets the eye. "Through this you also pass like one in a dream, won- dering why such beauty is wasted where the eye of man rarely beholds it. Another narrow outlet receives you, and guiding your frail canoe along the rapid current, you are again swallowed up by the wilderness, to be born anew in a lovelier scene. Thus on, as if under a wizard's spell, you move along, alternately lost in the narrow channels and struggling to escape the rocks on which the current would drive you, then floating over a broad expanse, extending as far as the eye can see into the mountains beyond. A ride through these eight lakes is an episode in a man's life he can never forget." * The Fulton Chain of Eight Lakes was named in honor of Hohert Fulton, the celebrated American engineer and inventor of the steamboat. 66 THE ADIRONDACKS. Of the physical outline of this "Tract," Prof. Lardner Vanuxem, thus remarks in his volume of the Geology of New York : — "The most interesting feature of the Wilder- ness region is its chain of lakes, placed so nearly upon a level, that but little labor from man is required to connect those of several counties together. The lakes of Herkimer and Hamilton are arranged upon a line which is parallel with the St. Lawrence R. and Ontario Lake, and with the Ohio, etc. ; appearing not to be accident merely, but the result of a law whose operations were in their direction, and on several parallels. These lakes, if a communication were opened from E. to \V., would be much resorted to. The beauty of their waters, their elevation, and the wild scenery which surrounds them, would not fail to attract visitors." We need not here enumerate the many other crystal lakes and rivulets that adorn this section, all situated in the midst of the finest scenery, as they are noticed in their proper places. Here at the "Old Forge," where Herreshoff erected his mills, is one of the best water-powers in the world. The original dam, some 40 ft. long, is still standing, and when first constructed, raised the water in Fourth Lake 2 ft. It has since been raised 4 ft. higher. No other vestige (ex- cept a rusty trip-hammer) remains to remind the observer of the former business activity of the location. Entering our boats and passing up the stream, pausing at Indian Pt., (1.) to examine the spot where Uncle Nat. shot his aborigi- nal foe, we enter First Lake. Here we will briefly turn from our route to make an excursion to the sequestered region of " South Branch," of Moose R. Turning sharply to the right, when near the middle of the lake, we pass Dog Island, and land at a little opening about 40 r. this side of the marsh, and carry S. over a good path ^ m. to Little Moose Lake. This beautiful sheet covers a surface of 450 acres and contains no islands. A long green promontory nearly divides it in twain; and from its elevated summit we obtain an entrancing view of the whole lake, one of the purest and deepest on the "Tract." "It has a beach of in- comparable whiteness, and the bottom of the lake, which looks like a vast bed of fine white salt, can be seen as we UJ O a o < s- z D O s s o a. uj ■a. < -j LU in LITTLE MOOSE LAKE. 67 sit in our boats, glittering beneath, at an immense depth." — Headley* It was long famed for the abundance and superior quali- ty of its trout, speckled and salmon, and received its name, as did Big Moose Lake, from the fact that it was once a favorite haunt of the now extinct moose. Moose Mt. rises near its shores. The inlet entering its eastern extremity, flows from East Pond, containing 40 or 50 acres; reached by a carry of Yz m. N. E. Its outlet unites with South Branch. f Traversing about two-thirds of its length, we land on its S. shore, opposite the rocky point, and carry J/ m. S. to Panther Lake, a jewel of the first water with emer- ald settings, and really panther- like in its wildness. This supplies one of its inlets. Passing over this sheet (^ m.) we make a portage of 2 m. S. to the South Branch. This carry is a difficult one; but our efforts will be rewarded by some of the very best speckled trout fishing to be found in the North Woods. The noted "Comb's Spring Hole," at the foot of the Stillwater, 2^ m. below the river end of the Panther Lake carry, and "Canachagala Spring Hole," lo- cated 6% m. above the same point, at the junction of the Canachagala outlet with South Branch (5 m. from Cana- chagaly L.; no path — follow the course of the stream), are of remarkable interest to fishermen. Deer are also found here in considerable numbers. On this stream, and nearly opposite Moose Lake, is a small clearing of several acres, called "Canachagala," and supposed to have been made by Indians. Canachagala and the Woodhull lakes are visited from this locality by taking a path leaving the river, S., and following the course of the old Remsen road. Dis- tance to Woodhull L., ij£ m.; to Old Forge, in opposite direction, 6 m. The Bisby and Woodhull L's. (p. 54) are also reached from Comb's Spring Hole, via Comb's L. {% x }() ij4 m. ; and thence to the two Chub L's. which empty into Upper Bisby L. near by. South Branch is not * The section embracing Little Moose L. and this portion of Soutli Branch is owned by the Adirondack League Cues. Sportsmen must not trespass upon this territory. A magnificent Club House called "Mountain Lodge," has heen erected at Little Moose. This is probably the most complete of its kind in the entire country. (See p. 36.) t Lying N. of East P. and E. of First L., is Mountain P. Prom East P. a carry leads S. E. 2 m. to Lime Kiln Creek, whence It is a short distance to two other little ponds E. and S. E. 68 THE ADIRONDACKS. navigable below Comb's Spring Hole, nor above the Pan- ther L. carry. Near the latter point, Lime Kiln Creek, outlet of Lime Kiln L. 12 m. above, enters South Branch, and at the falls by that name, fine fishing is afforded. Several miles E. of Panther Lake carry, is Pico L., and another nameless pond. The scenery at the foot of First L has been greatly marred by the overflow caused by the dam at Old Forge — numerous dead trees lining the bank of the stream in the approach to this sheet. A prominent object in the S. E. is Moose L. Mt. A narrow submerged sand-bar forms the line of separation from Second L. We enter this through a channel about 20 ft. wide. Here on a pleasant point is located the noted "Siickney Camp," erected years ago by a wealthy citizen of St. Louis. Second L. (ix^) has more abrupt and also finer shores, and is withal more attractive than First L. ; but Third L. (1 x 3^) [20 r. beyond by the sluggish strait], with its hand- some shape and pure deep trout-waters, is deemed the most important of the three. It furnishes excellent salmon (buoy or trolling) fishing, and its principal inlet is E. Creek, a favorite resort of those who seek for speckled trout. This deep but narrow stream, densely fringed with alders, is navigable for i/£ m. Third L. has one treeless, grassy islet. The trail to the summit of Bald Mountain,* an elevation rising from the N. shores of Second and Third Lakes, and presenting a majestic front of naked rock nearly a mile in extent, starts from Perrie's Hotel at the head of Third Lake. Distance to extreme height about 1 m. The path ascends gradually till the summit is nearly reached, when precipitous cliffs are encountered, the scaling of which renders the final portion of the ascent somewhat laborious. The crest, entirely destitute of trees, is composed of smooth gneissoid rock, frequently shaped like the roof of a house; and along the sharp and gently ascending ridge, one can walk nearly %; m. The southern side has a sheer descent where we may look down hundreds of feet. A charming prospect of wilderness-scenery is here enjoyed. Eleven * Tlris peculiar mountain was recently renamed St. Louis by Verplanok Col- vin. It was formerly called Mt. Scope ; also Nat. Foster's Observatory: as it was a favorite lookout of that forest ranger. THE FULTON CHAIN. 69 pearly lakes and ponds are in view; and mountains and valleys appear in every direction as far as the vision extends. At least 140 towering domes are visible to the naked eye. Among the most conspicuous of these is the famed Mt. Emmons (Blue Mt.); though the grand Tahawus, also Mclntyre, Saddle Back, Seward, Owl's Head and Amper- sand with dim outline, are included in the grand panorama spread before us. Passing out of Third Lake we work through a short and rapid channel of the clearest water, (yi m.) and with all the dramatic effect of the stage, Fourth Lake, the largest and grandest of the group (6xi^) unfolds itself. The shores now grow high and commanding ; and rise in rapid ascents from the gentle undulating hill up to moun- tain precipices. As we pass along, the points and head- lands seem to shift their locations, as if ingeniously dis- placed for startling iffects. The beautiful hemlock grows to the water's edge, and in the hazy light of a July sun, seems but delicate tracery covering the rugged ground, and giving it everywhere a poetic witchery. The surface of the water, calm and undisturbed, reflects all these beauties with strange precision ; and as we gaze, we lose the lines that divide the real from the shadowy world. In the center of this lake is a singular group of rocks, known as Elba Island {% a.) Its grey and bright yellow sides, interspersed with stunted vegetation, have a most brilliant effect in the noonday sun, and viewed at a distance, appear like jewels set in the cerulean blue of the surrounding water. Six miles is a long distance to impatient hunters, and Elba serves as a magnificent monument to break up the long reach. Many years ago some lads passing in a skiff thought they saw something moving among the brush; a careful inspection served to discover the sleek form of a large panther. The comparatively harmless shot of a fowling-piece drove the "varmint" into the lake; the boys followed in pursuit, and by some fortunate blows of an oar succeeded in killing it. — [T. B. Thorpe ] Several other islands grace this lake. One mile from the foot is Deer or Big I. containing ioo a., heavily tim- bered. Then follow, Bear (15 a.), Cedar, Dollar, and Gull l's. — the latter being a peculiar rock shooting upwards 70 THE ADIRONDACK^. from the water. On the Cedar I's,— connected by a pict- uresque bridge — is the Cedar Island House, where travelers will find the attractions of a pleasant home and interesting surroundings. They will be well entertained also at Fred Hess's (at head of the lake); and Alonzo Wood's Camp — both proprietors famous guides. Likewise at Johnson's, Forest Home, and Fourth Lake House. The latter has a pleasant situation at the foot of the lake, and is well patronized. Paths pen- etrating the forest, enable guests to stroll several miles through these shaded aisles — an agreeable diversion. Wood's place is located on the direct route to Big Moose Lake. There are also several furnished camps on the Fourth, well adapted to the wants of "campers," which may be rented. Steamer Fulton stops twice daily at all these points. (P. O. Old Forge, N. Y.) From the head of the lake rise two interesting peaks; Nipple Top and Black Mts. Both of these have trails to their summits and afford fair views. There is a signal station on the latter. Mt. St. Louis looms up finely as we look towards the foot of the lake. Five distinct echoes may be produced at this point. The trout resorts are: — Up Eagle Creek (entering the lake on N. W. side % m. below Eagle Bay) as far as the boat will float ; mouth of a little stream* S. side, opposite Big I. (midway); and mouth of another small stream just below Pine Pt. Good buoy fishing is also afforded. We will again deviate from our course to examine anoth- er group very interesting to sportsmen, namely: the North Branch (of the Moose R.) Chain. These waters lie parallel to the Eight Lakes, and their particular names are : First, Second, f Big Moose, Moss or Morse, Cascade, etc., Lakes. The North Branch and the three first named are reached by two different routes, as follows : — - Tills is tlie outlet of a tiny pond called "Klver" a m. 1. lying 60 r. from the lake. Carry starts opposite W. end of Big Island. It lias no trout but swarms with "pumpkin seed" fish. Opposite Elba I., S. side, so or 00 r. from the lake lies another pond. t It is to be regretted that the original names of First and Second Lakes were not retained, as much confusion might thus have been avoided. The former was called "Landon," and the. latter "Foster." THE NORTH BRANCH. 71 1. We take out our boats about 1 m. above the foot of Fourth Lake, 1., or ^ m. above the old Dunakin Camp,* situated some 40 r. beyond the first point that we pass af- ter entering the lake. We carry N. 3/ A ni. ; then cross Big or Carry Pond, y$ m. ; thence carry t}£ m.; then pass over a portion of First Lake (^ x ^), and up the inlet, r. N. E. (Moose R.) 2^ m; then carry, 1. % m ; then take stream again % m.; then carry, r. % m.; thence row through Second Lake 1 % m ; and stream, N., 1 m ; thence carry, r. 1 y 2 m. to Big Moose Lake. First L. presents scenery of considerable interest. A mountain around which the carry to Fourth L. leads, rises from its S. shore, and Panther and Moss L. Mts. with their savage cliffs, are very conspicuous in the N. E. The pine tree abounds along its banks. A few salmon and many speckled trout are taken from its waters. The principal spring-hole may be found where Shallow P. outlet enters West Bay. Carry from here to Shallow P. {% x %) 1^ m. W., whose shallow waters contain a few speckled trout. West of First L. }4 m. is a pond yi m. 1.; and j{ m. W. of that is another pond. South of First L., (& W. of Carry P.) are Fly and several other ponds. Passing down the outlet (North Branch) of First L. several miles, the angler at the important spring-holes en route, will find extraordinary sport. From this stream about j4 or 1 m. below First L. Little Safford L. is reached by carrying \]4 m. W. ; and Clear P. by carrying 1 m. N. of that; whence we carry ij^.m. W. to reach Independ- ence L.; thence a carry leads N. E. 1 m. to Independence R. flowing from Otter P. about 2 m. E. Big Safford L. (%£ x }i) a secluded sheet lying at the base of Panther Mt. is reached from First L. by carrying 2 m. N.; or from Deep Hole Bay, a noted spring-hole 1 m. * The abundance of cold springs on the shore ol this part ot the lake, ren- ders it a favorite camping ground. At the Dunakin Camp a spring gushes from the rocks so cold (8 deg. above freezing point,) that the want of ice is unknown. 72 THE ADIRONDACKS. up the inlet (North Branch), by carrying i% m. N. W. It furnishes good speckled trouting and deering.* Resuming the route to Big Moose L. and passing up the North Branch from First L. we find the scenery quite strik- ing. The savage crags of Panther and Moss L. Mts. are ever in view, and the surroundings are of the most prime- val character. Second L. (i^xj^) a charming sheet, (noted for its salmon trout) is overshadowed by Moss L. Mt. on the opposite side of which lies Moss L., reached by a carry of * Botli tlie North and South Branches of Moose E. seem fitted by nature to he the home of the trout, and have long been deal' to many an American brother of the angle. A FISHING TRIP. BY ERNST HELD. I made a trip, a stream to whip, Where plenty trout in frolic skip ; Before, Ahem — ! I took a sip — A fever-ague-killing nip ; So fortified, I let her slip My fishing-boat, a liny snip, Down, where below a stony rip On Northbranch — Moose, the river's lip With kisses leaves a sandy strip ; There speckled beauties flop and flip, Which took the fly with eager grip, And filled the basket at my hip. But joys are fleet : There's many a slip — A story old — 'twixt cup and lip. Crazed by mosquitoes' bloody grip, I rose to fill and light my pip', Whilst carelessly my bamboo whip Was thrown across the seat midship. Alas ! Alas ! My little chip Of boat made a preposterous dip ; I balanced, — staggered, — made a trip, — A seatwise fall, — a crash ! — " O Rip Van Winkle ! Saint of woodmen ! Keep My soul from swearing lest a heap Of savory d s befoul my lip ; And would it cure my broken tip ? " Thus did I cry ; whilst from the deep The largest trout made leap on leap And dared me, with a saucy peep Of wistful eyes, to catch and keep Them, if I could. A splintered tip Was the memento of my trip. BIG MOOSE LAKE. 73 i J^ m. Comfortable quarters will be found at Dart's Ho- tel. Hence it is about ij4 m. to Fourth L. Big Moose or Sherman L. is a beautiful and sequestered sheet, (4% x i) encircled by a double frame- work of lofty heights, presenting with its varied features of points, bays and islands, (Echo I. the principal one) a scene of pictur- esque loveliness rarely excelled. On its N. shore is a bay of such remarkable form, that it might well be regarded as a separate lake, being nearly detached from the main body. Big Moose is said to furnish the best June fishing in the Wilderness. Both speckled and salmon trout abound in its cold deep waters, and there is no scarcity of venison. The wide and deep N. E. inlet, one of the wildest of for- est-streams, outlet of the Two Sister P's, and navigable for i)4 m., swarms with large speckled trout ; and the broad marshes lining its course, form a vast feeding-ground for deer. Two forest-inns — "The Higby," and "Camp Crag" — of- fer every attention and necessary comfort to sportsmen. They are both pleasantly situated ; and although this lake and the surrounding waters lie within the precincts of Dr. Webb's Ne-ha-sa-ne Park, sporting and camping privileges to a certain extent, may be obtained through the proprie- tors of these hotels. (P. O., Old Forge, N. Y.) Big Moose Lake Station on the A. & St. L. R. R. is within 2 m. of the lake, by wagon-road, where carriages await tourists bound for that point. Boats are taken for a portion of the journey. A line of boats also serve travelers who wish to visit the Fulton Chain. There are upwards of 40 different bodies of water within 2 hours' walk of Big Moose. From this lake by carries it is 3 m. to Twitchell L., around which cluster a dozen beautiful lochans ; thence 4 m. to Wood's L.; thence 2^ m. (passing Lily P.) to the Carthage Road and Loon L. From Big Moose.it is Yz m. S. (carry) to West P. From N. end of Big Moose a new route leads to Raquette L. as follows:— Carry 2 m. S. E. to Constable P. {% x }4); thence 1 m. S. to Queer L.; thence 23^ m. S. E. to Shallow 74 THE ADIRONDACK^. L.; thence boat down the outlet 3% m. to Cranberry P. {ij4 x 3/1) ; thence carry 1 m. to Raquette L. East of Constable P. is Pigeon P., and E. of that is Otter P. The most of them have bold shores and varied attrac- tions, and discharge into Big Moose. From Fourth L. we carry N. from the shore opposite Elba I. Y& m. to a pretty little round pond (j^ x %); thence J^ m. to Bub's L * (}£ m. J.); thence 1 m. to Moss L.; thence 1^ m. to Second L. North Branch; thence stream N. 1 m.; thence carry r. 1 y 2 m. to Big Moose Lake, (p. 71). Boats are not usually put in these waters in mak- ing the portage to Moss L. Bub's L. is of remarkable shape and also quite romantic. Sis P. (% x Y%) sparkles 40 r. S. W. of it. Moss L. (^ x }() in whose clear waters is reflected the mountain bearing that name, has bold and striking shores and interesting environments. Both salmon and speckled trout are plentiful At the mouth of its outlet at North Branch (ij4 m. above First L.) the latter are taken in great numbers. The chief inlet of Moss L. is the outlet of John's, or Cascade L (i}4 x y) lying 2 m. E. (carry). This lone- ly water is a gem-like sheet with romantic banks and at- tractive surroundings. The Murray P's. and Queer L. lie %i an d l3 A m - respectively N. W. and N. of it (blazed line). Cascade L. may also be reached from Fourth L. by a trail starting at Eagle or N. E. Bay; distance, 2% m. It is a rough carry leading over a mountain. Leaving Fourth Lake, boats are generally paddled up half the length of the narrow inlet, and then pushed the remainder of the distance, by the guides ; travelers usually preferring to walk over the pleasant portage yi m. to Fifth L. {% m. long.) Lime Kiln Lake is reached by following a trail leading from the head of Fifth Lake — from a point 10 rods from the inlet, r. Distance 3 m. S. The path is hardly percep- * Arnold used to send his son Otis (the efficient guide), whom he designated " Bub," to this lakelet, and a daughter, whom he called "Sis," to the neigh- boring- pond, to watch lor deer ; hence their names. THE FULTON CHAIN. 75 tible and the marked trees must be closely observed. This lake is about i y 2 m. 1., contains several pretty islands, and is famed for its beauty. It furnishes many large speckled trout. Its outlet— Lime Kiln Creek— discharges into the S. Branch of Moose R. A deposit of lime found in this stream, gave the lake and outlet their name. In the neighborhood are several ponds, reached by good carries. The intrepid explorer, Verplanck Colvin, killed a large panther between Lime Kiln L. and Seventh Lake Mt. Feb. IS- 1876. From the Fifth to the Sixth Lake there is a continued fall the intervening distance of 5^ m. With a single lock between these two lakes, a water communication might easily be obtained through the whole extent of the eight lakes. (Simms.) The portage encountered here is a rough one. The Fifth and Sixth Lakes (both very wild, with marshy shores) are noted as deer resorts. The lily-leaved surface of these wood-embowered lakelets offers tempting pasturage to these gentle creatures, and here many of them meet their doom. In the Sixth L. is found that remarkable curiosity in vegetation known as floating islands. These are composed of various plants and grasses interlaced, forming movable masses, which do not yield to our weight. On the marsh at the head of this lake, cranberries are found in abun- dance. Passing from the Sixth (}4 m. 1.) up the narrow and rapid inlet, (1 m.) we enter the Seventh Lake, and are delighted with the panorama at this point unfolded to us.* This lake (2 m. 1.) has, not far from its center, one island (White's) of some 50 acres, covered with rocks and pine timber, which has become a popular camping place. Near the island off its S. shore, salmon trout have sometimes been caught, at a depth of 10 ft. weighing from 15 to 20 lbs. For * Later— The Sixth and the once lovely Seventh L., now present a scene of desolation. A dam has been placed at the loot of the former, and ghastly dead trees now skirt the once bright and verdant shores of these waters. The silver beach at the head of the Seventh, so long the boast of that local- ity, has disappeared. Its inlet and outlet, from pleasant streams have be- come dismal swamps, divested of every charm ; and thus some of Its most attractive features are perhaps lost forever. y6 THE ADIRONDACKS. speckled trout, visit the little stream that enters near this place, and the inlet and outlet. Seventh Lake Mt. rises near the S. W. shore. South of the lake, near the foot is a connected group of. tiny dimples styled Church Ponds. To reach Bug and Eagle Lakes, 2 little sheets lying alone in the forest, W. of Eighth L., we follow the path N. that starts from the E. shore, about 100 rods N. W. of the mouth of the inlet of Seventh L. The route, part of the way, (i}4 m.) is a mere trail, followed by the aid of barked trees. Bug Lake is an uninteresting body of water, in shape similar to that of a boot. "Boot L." would be a more appro- priate name. It furnishes no fishing. When leaving this lake on the return trip, by turning sharply to the 1. and proceeding 80 or 100 r. we will reach Eagle Lake. The shores of this little loch rise boldly, almost precipitously, from the water's edge. It was once famous for its numer- ous large speckled trout, and it still affords some fine. catches. Continuing our journey up the inlet of Seventh L., we land 1. and pass over the fair portage {1% m.) to Eighth Lake, (1^ m. 1.) one of the brightest links of this re- markable chain. Its scenery, though with slight preten- sions to grandeur, is scarcely excelled in beauty by any other lake. Its shores, finely clothed with primeval woods, rise gently to considerable height, and cast their shadows into its limpid waters which are rarely surpassed in crys- talline purity. The surrounding forest — unusually at- tractive — remains untouched and unspoiled by the vandal axe or match. And it is to be hoped that this smiling sheet may long be preserved in its native loveliness. On the only island adorning this lake was located the soli- tary camp of Alva Dunning, the noted trapper and woods- man. Fair buoy fishing is afforded; and at the mouth of its N. E. inlet some speckled trout are taken. A blazed line extends to Mohegan P., 6 m. S. E.; also to Trout P., about 2 m. E. of S. Traversing the rough portage from the head of this lake, we arrive at the Brown Tract Inlet, flowing from the two pretty little Brown Tract P's only 20 rods apart, lying about 1 m. W. of the landing, and which may be visited by boat up the stream when the water is high. They are also PORT LEYDEN. 77 reached direct from Eighth L. by carry of i V 2 to 2 m. On an island in one of them, huckleberries abound, so large and juicy they might be palmed off for wild grapes. About the year 1873, 17 black bass were placed in these ponds, which have multiplied enormously. Many of them have passed down the outlet 5 m. to Raquette L., where they are caught in considerable numbers. Resuming our journey down the sinuous Brown Tract stream — perchance dragging the craft some distance at the commencement — we wind through a cheerless swamp, (4 m.) and anon the lovely Raquette lies before us. Distance from Old Forge about 26 m. A line of row-boats between the Fulton Chain and Ra- quette Lake, will connect with the steamer Fulton at head of Fourth Lake. A more romantic and delightful excur- sion can hardly be conceived. Fare, about $3.00. Sixth: — Port Leyden is pleasantly situated in the val- ley of the Black River, and is surrounded by very hand- some scenery. A short distance below the village, the channel of the river is contracted to less than 20 ft. in width, and the torrent rushes through the gorge (first named Hell Gate) with immense force. Several pot-holes have been worn in the gneiss rock to a great depth. Rock Island at this place, is a rugged bluff, whose scenery is highly picturesque ; it is as yet mostly undisturbed by the hand of man. Another very romantic scene may be witnessed in the neighborhood on Sugar R. that tumbles down 100 ft. through a gorge, presenting a succession of steps, having a general slope of about 45 °. The banks on either side are nearly vertical, and from 100 to 200 ft. in height. Below the falls, the gorge spreads out into a beautiful vale cov- ered with a dense growth chiefly of evergreen timber, and far above the massive walls extend on either side. About % m. below, the whole of the river in the summer disap- pears in the fissures worn by the current, and about 50 rods below again appears at the surface. A road passes over the natural bridge thus formed. Near this place and in the same strata" are caves that have been explored some 200 or 300 ft in different directions. (Hough's Lewis Co.) 78 THE ADIRONDACKS. Parties wishing to spend a few weeks in the country will find Port Leyden a desirable location for a temporary resi- dence. Tourists en route for the Wilderness are furnished with guides and conveyances by the proprietors of the Pine Street or Powers House, both offering good accommoda- tions to summer guests. There are two routes from this point to Old Forge; one forming a junction with the Boonville route, about midway between the latter village and Moose River, (n m.) mak- ing the distance to Old Forge 24^ m.; and the other leading to Lyonsdale,4 m.; thence to "Deacon Abby's place" 3 m.; thence to Old Forge, merging into the Boonville road about 6 m. beyond Moose R., 18 m. Total, 25 m. The first of these roads, as far as Moose R., is kept in good con- dition. Stage daily to Moose R., n m., where trains are taken on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. for "Arnold's," (2 m. from Old Forge) and various points be- yond. The other road is sandy, hilly, unpleasant, and now im- passable except for pedestrians and equestrians. Hence people seldom travel that route. Seventh : — Lyon's Falls,* (formerly called "High Falls") a pleasant hamlet situated near the junction of Moose with Black River, has very picturesque surroundings. The cas- cade from which the village is named, plunges over a ledge of gneiss rock in the Black River, 63 ft. in height, at an an- gle of 60 degrees, presenting a scene in time of freshets, really grand and beautiful. The precipitous banks, at and below the falls, are so colored by the iron gradually washed from this ledge, that they seem to have been painted by human art ; hence they are called the " Pictured Rocks." Tradition relates that "many years ago, a white man (some claim it was the trapper, ' Uncle ' Nat. Foster) pursued by Indians leaped safely across the channels here and escaped from his pursuers ; they paused at the verge of the fearful chasm, and dared not fire their pieces at the heaven pro- tected fugitive." * Named Irom Caleb R. Lyon, first resident agent. His descendants resid- ing here are proprietors o£ a princely landed estate In t6.3 neighboring wil- derness. (See p. 62.) a z < a z => O a u < S < x a z H Z < or m H z 5 a. O z o LAKE BRANTINGHAM. 79 From Lyon's Falls to Carthage, (42^ m.) Black R. is navigated by small steamers. There is a factory between this place and Lyonsdale, (3 m ) where spruce and poplar wood are put to a new use— being converted into paper by a process recently dis- covered. This little village with its romantic environments, fine boating and fishing, should become a popular summer resort. Aside from the fairs, Chase's and Brantingham L. (8 m.) Lyonsdale and Sugar River Falls,* Whetstone Gulf and Chimney Pt., all accessible by good roads, form the chief attractions of this locality. The Walton and the Gaffney House are the principal hotels. The route to Old Forge (24^ m ) unites with the one leading from Port Leyden at Lyonsdale, 3 m. (Rarely traveled. See p. 78). Brantingham ! euphonic name of a lovely lake lying on the border of the Great Forest, perhaps 350 ft. above the Black River valley, and 1,200 ft. above the level of the sea, perpetuates the memory of Thomas Brantingham, who once owned about 75,000 acres of land, mostly in this town (Greig). Its banks richly wooded, rise in gentle slopes to a mod- erate height, and with its various features it presents a scene charmingly wild and picturesque. Two islands, "Round" and "Dark," adorn its waters; the former rising abruptly in mound-like form, on whose elevated ground is perched a little cottage embowered by evergreens. Dark Island, mostly clothed with dark green pines and but a short distance away, is a very popular camping-place. Long Point, a narrow, rounded promontory entirely forest-clad, extends nearly J^ mile into the lake, and forms one of its most attractive features. Indeed it would be difficult to exaggerate the charms of this favored spot. It affords fine sites for camps or cottages ; as well as delight- ful rambles over smooth, clean ground, with the bewitch- ing waters of the lake glittering on either side.f The dense shade, and the constant breeze, laden with the sweet, bal- * These pretty falls are on Moose B. In the midst ot pleasing scenery. t Partridge's cottage, on this point, has a charming situation. 80 THE ADIRONDACKS. samic odor of that aristocrat of the forest, the pine, furnish delicious coolness even on the hottest days. On the lake near this point, there is a remarkable echo that repeats itself 7 times. The lake (i y 2 x i J^) is so serrated with bays and capes, occasionally rimmed with golden sand, it is said to have 10 or 12 miles of coast; and a natty little steamer, in its frequent excursions through; its liquid vistas and along its irregular shores, travels 6 miles in the voyage ; fare 25 cts. for the round trip. Brantingham, though a sheet of rare beauty, makes no pretension to the grandeur of the mountain scenery witnessed from many of the Adirondack lakes ; but its various other attractions bring thither numerous sports- men, invalids and picnic parties, who are never disap- pointed with the visit.* The Lake House is admirably situated on a pine-crowned bluff at the termination of the branch road. It is an un- pretentious structure of home-like character, but the table is excellent, while the terms for entertainment are so rea- sonable that nearly all can afford to tarry here for days or weeks. The grounds, the shade and the surroundings, are all that can be desired ; and from this spot is enjoyed an admirable survey of nearly the entire length and breadth of the lake. The evenings especially, are replete with gayety and delight. On the water, often flooded with the silvery light of the moon, are merry boating parties ; now listening to the plaintive cry of the whip-poor-will, that songster of the night, filling the star-lit air with its quaint melody ; how awakening from their slumbers the reverberating echoes. At that witching hour, the rich notes of a cornet produce an effect like that of enchantment. There is an extensive boat livery for the free use of guests; also a pleasant pavilion, covering a large dancing floor. Several neat lit- tle cottages dot the shores. Among the rambles and boating excursions that may be taken from the hotel, are the following :— To the Mineral Spring 5 m. S. E, by road. It is situated 1. of the farther end of the picturesque bridge spanning the * Brantlngham L. Is only T m. from that Important line of travel, the E. W. & O. E. E., Irom which many of the Wilderness resorts are reached; and the ONLY ALL-KAII. ROUTE TO THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. THE WHITE WATER LILY. 8l outlet, and luxuriant evergreen and other trees overshadow it. Its waters are strongly impregnated with iron, and con- tain some magnesia and a trace of sulphur. It is 2 m. thence by this road — a branch of the main road — through the wood's to Palen's Mills on Fish Creek. This excellent trout-stream may be reached en route \ m. beyond the Spring (i m. from the hotel), by diverging to the right 25 or 30 rods. The road branching (r.) a short distance from the Spring and leading to Northrup's Mills, affords a pretty walk through an avenue of overarching trees. Large and deli- cious blackberries are very abundant here and elsewhere in the neighborhood. In the opposite direction— passing Round P., r. — Lake Pleasant (1 m. from the hotel) is reached. It may also be visited from the hotel by two other routes: 1. Boat to Smith's Pt.* 40 or 60 r. thence road through the woods and across the fields ^ m. 2. Boat to head of bay just beyond Smith's Pt., % m.; thence good path % m. This little lake (25 a.) was really pleasant before its shores were shorn of the bordering trees, and is noted for its clear, cold water. It has no visible inlet or outlet now, though boats formerly found a passage to Brantingham L. It furnishes pickerel of very handsome shape and color, and of superior flavor. When here, the ramble may be continued to Bullhead or Burr's P. 25 or 30 rods N. W. Lying j4 m. S. E. of the hotel is Lily or Beaver P., the path leading through a handsome grove (Brower's Pt.) and offering delectable views of both lake and lakelet, in oppo- site directions. Its surface is generously mantled with the pure and odorous white water-lily, f that most exquisite of our native flowers. This little loch is an off-shoot of the outlet of Brantingham L., flowing into Fish Creek (r m.). * Eev. Mr. Hoadley's cottage is located at tills delightful spot. t "No wonder that the Buddhists hall the holy lotus, and dedicate It to the apostle ol their faith." The botanical name of the pond-lily is Xymphaia odorata, the poetical Greeks having, with their usual good taste, associated it with the water nymphs. The roots are often large, and are buried deep down amidst the mud, while the round, flat leaves, often crimson underneath and attached to lengthy stems, repose upon the surface of the water. The flowers open in the early morning and rejoice in the summer sunshine, but In the afternoon they close again to sleep through the hours of the night. The white of the petals is tinged with a delicate pink, suggestive of the Vic- toria Eegia, the queenly lily of the Amazons. 8z THE ADIRONDACK?. Traces are still visible of the dam built here many years ago by the historically industrious beaver. Long P. lies only 15 rods W. of the lake, nearly opposite Round I. And here, that curiosity of the vegetable king- dom, known as the Pitcher Plant * flourishes in profusion. It is 1 % m. N. W. of Brantingham L. to Catspaw L., an old-time deer resort, but with nothing else to recommend it. Route: — Boat, 1 % m. — landing beyond Dark I., a short distance 1. of Partridgeville Landing; thence follow a lumber road (lined with blackberry bushes) through a belt of woods to the highway, (Otter Lake road) ; thence the way traverses a pasture, and passes through a pleasant pine-bordered amphitheater. Dyers P. — an interesting little "punch bowl" — lies close to the highway some 40 or 60 rods E. of where our route to Catspaw crosses this road (1% m - fr° m Hubbard's Hotel). The several waters just named are perhaps individually tame, and present few attractions ; but as a whole, they form a sparkling setting to. the principal jewel, Lake Brant- ingham. Again, from Brantingham L. it is 1 m. N. to Otter Creek, one of the best natural trout-streams in this section ; and 2% m. N. E. (road) to Crooked Creek, also a very fine trout resort. (See Glendale Route to Otter L., Independ- ence R , &c, by which Brantingham L. is most conven- iently visited.) On Otter Creek are several pretty cascades,— 4 to 15 ft. fall — that merit a visit. Route from hotel : — Boat through lake to Partridgeville Landing tj^m.; thence road 1 m. to near Partridgeville; thence road (I.) through the woods }4 m.; or road along the lake 3 m. On Crooked Creek jj4m. from Partridgeville begin a series of beautiful waterfalls. There are 3 within a space of 2 m., one descending 20 ft. This well-sized stream is of crystal clearness, and produces trout of silvery hue. * "The flowers alone are curious enough ; but as 11 not satisfied with mak- ing them unique, Nature has endowed the plant with leaves only surpassed In wonder by the lidded pitchers of Nepenthes. These are often filled with pure and delicious water ; and when the brooks fall to yield their limpid treasures, the pitcher-plant in the heaver meadow, presents Its cup of spark- ling nectar to the wearied traveler or the wild gazelle, with almost thought- ful kindness." s LAKE BRANTINGHAM DISTRICT. 83 From the upper fall it is 5^ m. by good path to Stony L., (75 a.) ; also reached by trail from Partridgeville, 3 m. This picturesque sheet is fitly named. It is long (1 m ) and narrow, and nearly encompassed by rocky shores. It contains one island, and several huge boulders dot its surface. It affords good " deering " and trouting, and flows into Independence River. Whortleberry P. {yi x y&) also an affluent of Independ- ence R. lies about 1 m. N. W. of Stony L , and 2 m. from Spring or Sperryville, 1 m. E. of Chase's L. Huckleber- ries abound near this deer resort. Reached by road. Panther P. (pretty) likewise a source of Independence R., lies N of it, and Bell's P., another source, lies N. of that ; and a little farther N. are Francis and Beaver L's at Number Four. Little Otter L. (y 2 x j4) lies 3 m N. E. of Brantingham L. and is reached via a rough winter-road through the woods from the dam at Partridgeville. This attractive water is surrounded by a luxuriant growth of evergreens and is gilded at its upper end by a sand beach. It is very pleasing, and needs only mountains to make it really beau- tiful. It is noted for both deer and trout. Its inlets and its outlet — Little Otter Creek — are all good trout-streams. Inman P. (4 a.) 1 m. S. of Little Otter L. and 1 m from Partridgeville by lumber-road, swarms with bullheads. Outlets into Crooked Creek. Long P. lies S. E. of Little Otter. Pitcher P. (8 a.) lies in the vicinity near junction of Big and Little Otter Creeks. The 3 Wormwood P's (muddy) lie \% m. N. W. of Lit- tle Otter L. and 1 m. from Sand P. lying S. E. of Chase's Lake. Murtaugh P. (1 a.) ^ m. S. E. of Little Otter L., (no trail) is as clear as crystal, and has no visible inlet or outlet. Brantingham L. is well adapted as headquarters for ex- cursions to other yet more distant lakes, streams and water- falls. Among them the following are recommended: — It is nj^ m. to Big Otter L. and 10 m. to Big Pine L. (t x yi — 200 a.) via the Otter L. route; the road branching r. at Botchford's Tannery ; and from here it is 3 m. of rough traveling. Big Pine is a beautiful water, adorned by a g 4 THE ADIRONDACKS. single pine-clad island, and a densely wooded mountain rises from its shore. It is admirable sporting ground for deer or trout. Distance thence to Big Otter L. i % m. N. E. (trail to the dam). Near Big Pine are East and West P's (25 a. each). ,„-■>•>, From Big Pine it is 4 m. E. by blazed line to Middle Settlement L. (1 x \), (2% m. by trail from Brown Tract road) which takes its name from a clearing once made near it, mid-way, on the "Deacon Abbey road." It is long and narrow, and of peculiar shape; and is nearly surround- ed by bold mountain scenery. Its marshy borders furnish good feeding ground for deer, and it is also productive of trout. Thence it is i>£ m. E. by line to Cedar P. (30 a.);— richly fringed with cedar and tamarack trees, and well stocked with small trout. Near this carry (midway) rises a cavernous mountain, whose rocky ledges present an inter- esting spectacle. Thence by trail ^ m. N. E. is Spring or Gibbs's L. {}/=, x %).* From here a trail leads ij^m.to N. E. corner of Mid. Settlement L. Spring L. furnishes fine " deering " and trouting. From Cedar P. it is 2^ m. to East P., and 1% m. W. (line) to Middle Branch L. (75 a.). This sheet has bold and rocky shores, and near its outlet an immense boulder 50 ft. in diameter lifts its summit above the water. A sand beach enhances its comeliness, and it is generally pronounced the pearl of the entire group. It affords excellent trouting, especially in May ; but rarely any deer. Parties find it a most desirable camping-place, while they resort to Mid. Settlement L. y 2 mile away by good path, for their venison. There is also a small deer-pond near. Thence through the trackless woods S. of W. it is about 5 m. to Palen's Mills, and 2^ m. farther by road to Brantingham Lake House. The better route would be the lumber-road leading from Mud Hole to Palen's Mills, 5 miles. • This is a mooted question. There are doubtless two separate bodies of water, and tlie slieet lying about 3% m. W. ol Glbb's L. should be called Spring L., (20 a.) which has marshy shores and produces large trout. Mid- way between them lies easier P. (6 a.). BIG PINE LAKE SECTION. 85 From Middle Branch L. to Spring or Gibbs L., it is 3 m. by good trail, where fine fishing is generally obtained. Thence it is 1^ m. to N. Br. Moose R.; thence to Old Forge Hotel 1% m. About 1 1^ m. S. W. of Mid. Branch L. (line) perched squarely on the summit of a bold acclivity several hundred feet in height, is Mt. Cascade P. (5 a.) discovered by Frank Perkins of Lyons Falls.* The outlet of this tarn forms a most picturesque cascade, plunging down the perpendicu- lar side of the parent height with one sheer fall of 60 ft. With the wild surroundings, it offers a spectacle quite im- pressive. The outlets of Cedar P., Spring, Mid. Settlement and Mid. Branch L's form Mid. Branch Stream, discharging in- to Pine Creek. Again, from Big Pine L. it is 2}^ m. S. (trail) via Mud Hole, or i^? m. direct to Little Pine L. (30 a.), also good ground for sport. Big and Little Pine, and Mid. Branch L's. discharge into "Mud Hole," which is nearly i^J m. long, 6 rods wide, and an expansion of Pine Creek, entering Moose R. about }4 m. E : . of Fowlersville. The boggy shores of Mud Hole tremble beneath our tread for a space of 40 ft. Trout are plentiful in its muddy waters, especially in the spring- time. Distance to Little Pine, ^ m. by good road. From Little Pine it is ij4 m. S. (trail) to Copper L. (^ x }4), famed for its large speckled trout. It derived its name from the color of its water ; the red-sand bottom giv- ing it a coppery hue. The abandoned Deacon Abbey road, leading from Port Leyden, (14 m.) and Lyon's Falls, (13 m.) to Old Forge, passes near it. And thus, this cluster of lakes may be reached by pedestrians, though the road is no longer passable for wagons. Copper L. — in beauty rare- ly surpassed — contains 1 pretty island, and outlets into Pine Creek. It may be reached by road from Brantingham L.; distance about 8 m. Hough and Garrett P's. lie near the Deacon Abbey road N. E. of Lyon's Falls. * To this expert woodsman and fine musician (Prank Perkins) we desire to offer our grateful thanks tor valuable Information received. 86 THE ADIRONDACKS. North of Copper L. ^ m. are 2 unimportant ponds 25 rods apart, of 15 to 20 a. each, which unite in Mid. Branch Stream. A lumber-road leads from Botchford's Tannery (Otter Creek), to Moose River Tannery, (15 m.) via Pine L., Mud Hole, and Copper L.; uniting with the Brown Tract road 3 m. from Copper L., and 2 m. from Moose River. Although the several lakes just named are bounded by no lofty mountains, they possess many remarkable features ; and though the lumberman and bark-peeler have long been busy in their midst, and numerous majestic pines and hem- locks have fallen a prey to the relentless ax, ("All the pines shudder and heave a sigh, when the lumberman steps on the forest floor.") yet a rich abundance of bright ever- green and other trees still remain; and this sparkling group presents such a combination of charms to the sportsman and tourist, as will long continue to attract them. Eighth : — From Glendale (Higby Hotel), a little village pleasantly situated on Black River, to Greig,* 35^ m.; Brantingham P. O. (Hubbard's Hotel) 3 m.; (Brantingham Lake by branch road, 1 m.f) Partridgeville, 2 m ; Botch- ford's Tannery, 4 m.; Dolgeville, 5^ m.; Otter Lake, (dam) 3 m.; Otter L. Landing, 1 m. Total, 171^ m. One and one-half m from Glendale, on the route, will be noticed an imposing granite mass of considerable altitude that forms a very con- spicuous feature of the landscape, termed "Deer Lick Rock." A salt spring existing near its base, was once the common resort of deer ; hence the name. And could these silent witnesses disclose the secrets of the past, we should doubtless find this spot one of historic interest. In the swamp, near which the rock rises, many relics have been un- earthed, strongly indicating that this was the scene of some fierce con- flict in colonial days. Esq. Olliver of Glendale, has a collection of in- teresting specimens found at this place, embracing stone tomahawks, arrow-heads and gun-locks. Engraved on one of the latter, are the owner's name and the date (1779). * Greig Is a prettily situated village with 2 trout streams— Crystalline Creek and Cold Brook— in the neighborhood. Choice of 2 roads (ascending grade) to Brantingham. t Although Brantingham L. lies 1 m. from the direct route to Big Otter L., none who would see a charming water, should pass it unnoticed. It is more CONVENIENTLY BEACHED FK0M GLENDALE, THAN PROM ANY OTHER K. E. STA- TION. BIG OTTER LAKE. 87 The road from Glendale traverses a picturesque and un- dulating section of the country for a large portion of the route, now skirting Black R. in a long, pleasant reach, now nearly touching the noted Brantingham L., and thence fol- lowing the course of Otter Creek. It is in good condition, (generally well shaded and enlivened by occasional patches of corduroy) as far as Dolgeville; thence it is rough travel- ing through the unbroken woods to Big Otter Lake. Partridgeville and Dolgeville are mere hamlets. Botch- ford's Tannery was a mammoth concern, managed by a popular and energetic man, who is also proprietor of the Moose River Tannery, to which leads a lumber road (15 m.) But since the supply of bark in the surrounding for- est became exhausted, this place, once teeming with life, has been entirely deserted, and everything is going to decay. From Botchford's a rough road extends through the woods to Number Four ; 1 1 m. This route, after leaving Independence Road passes through a remarkable canon, whose perpendicular walls of solid rock tower 25 to 40 ft. on either side, and affords just space enough for the passage of a wagon. Parties from No. 4. visit Big Otter Lake most conveniently by this route. There are several nameless ponds on the way. From Botchford's it is 3 m. S. E. to Big Pine L. (p. 83); and A,y 2 m. N. to Independence River — with its silvery running waters — one of the wildest and most beautiful of trout-streams. The road (good) passes near an abandoned silver mine (3 m.). It is 4 m. up the river to Hitchcock L. At Dolgeville there is an immense mill, where large quantities of piano sounding-boards and broom-handles are manufactured. The machinery is so perfect that a log fresh from the stream or woods is converted into broom - handles in 15 minutes. Acadian quiet reigns in this un- pretentious hamlet ; but though the accommodations are rough, the people are very hospitable, and furnish cheer- fully the best they have. Mr. A. L. Leavitt, Sup't of the "Otter Lake Mills," keeps a little store where camping sup- plies may be obtained ; also a boarding house where guests are entertained at a nominal price. Sportsmen some- times stop here for days or weeks, and whip Otter Creek 88 THE ADIRONDACK^. with great success. Guides, boats, and camping outfits are usually secured for the woods" and waters beyond. At the termination of the road at Big Otter L. will be found a large and commodious hotel. This romantic sheet ( i }l x 3/£) has handsome bays and points, and in one direc- tion offers a fair mountain view. But devastating fires long since impaired the native beauty of its shores. The dam at the foot of the lake, through the overflow it has caused, has also damaged the scenery. Its outlet is Otter Cr. (Ind., Dah-ween-net, "the otter,") a stream of considerable vol- ume, frequently clothed with dark woods, and entering Black R. about i}( m. below Glendale. The lake is shal- low, (average 22 ft.) and in it is found the Chara, by some called the fresh-water sponge. It is not particularly noted for deer, but is fame as a fishing resort has extended far away. It abounds in speckled trout, frequently of large size (4^ lbs.). Four trout-streams enter its waters; but the best fishing will be found at the mouth of the E. Inlet. Immense catches have been obtained there. Up S. Inlet about 1 m. (boat J^ m., path fy m ) is a beautiful waterfall ; a cascade of silver churned into the whitest foam in its descent of 15 or 20 ft. It is flanked on either side by towering rocks, and forms a scene almost sublime. This stream not only possesses the charms of wild and romantic scenery, but it offers extraordinary sport. Beyond the falls and below, the angry water is sometimes alive with trout ; the small ones above, and the larger ones in the dark pool beneath and down the sparkling stream. In fact, the entire length of this rivulet affords excellent fishing Two m. above the falls (path) is First Stillwater (camp); and ^ m. above that is Second Stillwater ; where in a lit- tle nook of the forest is romantically situated the "Upper Camp," (an open log cabin with an immense rock in front of it). Third Stillwater is 2 or 3 m. farther up the stream. From this point it is about 4 m. S. E. through the tangled woods (line) to Gibbs's L , from which it is 3^ m. to Old Forge (p. 64.) East Inlet flows from East P. (}4 x */$), $\l m. N. E.; reached by good lumber- road (2^ m.) and path (^ m.), starting at Otter Slide Bay. It is a pleasant and secluded OTTER LAKE SECTION. 89 sheet with one grassy island and has a peculiar rock rising near the center of its waters. It is set in a frame-work of mountains of fair elevation ; and having marshy shores, is a favorite resort of deer. It also ' furnishes remarkable trouting, especially in May. Within a few years panthers have been seen and heard near its borders. To Cedar P. it is 2j^ m. (no trail). Follow the hard- wood ridge. East of East P. ^ m. (good trail over a mountain) is Simon's P. (30 a) which empties into Upper Blackfoot P. The shores of this little lake are usually printed over with deer tracks. N. E. of East P. Y^ m. (good carry) are the 2 Blackfoot P's (^ x J^ each) sources of S. Inlet ; and it is 4 m. from them N. E. to Independence L. ; making distance from Otter L. by this route 8 m. The Blackfoot P's are simply mud-holes, shaped like a foot ; hence the name, "Black" or Nigger-foot. They are 40 r. apart, connected by boatable stream. Their numer- ous trout are clad in sable skins, yet the meat is salmon color and very palatable. From a point 1 m. on the way from Blackfoot P's to In- dependence L. a trail branches 1. yi m. to Deer P. (10 a.). Independence L, (1 x %[) lying in the neighborhood of Big Moose L. is one of the most wildly romantic sheets in this portion of the Wilderness. It has a solitary island and a sand beach. The forest enveloping it is primeval and unbroken, and until recently (1893) all around it has been solitude, boats having rarely disturbed its waters. Difficult of access, it was long the popular home of deer and trout. It was usually visited from the Fulton Chain, via First Lake, North Branch, until the construction of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R , which passes near its borders. Its outlet flows into Independence River. Wilcox L. is several miles N. W. of Independence Lake. Indian P., {% x }() 1 m. from Simon's P., has bold shores and handsome scenery. A path branches 1. from the route between East and Blackfoot P's. to Chub or Round P. (15 a); but the better way to reach this sheet is by the good portage leading from upper end of Lower Blackfoot (}4 to % m). 90 THE ADIRONDACKS. From Chub P. it is 3/i m. S. E. (trail) to East P. Chub outlets into Upper Blackfoot, and yields chubs of immense size; also large brook-trout. Carry from lower end of Lower Blackfoot, 5^ m. to Simon's P. Good path. Simon and Chub are good trout ponds. They and the Blackfoot P's are surrounded by mountains of moderate height. North P. (| x I) is reached from Big Otter L. by good portage (^ m.) starting at the sand beach, 1st point. Its sequestered waters are fringed with tamarack trees. A nameless mountain rises near its banks. It is especially good for deer and trout. Discharges into Big Otter Lake. West P. (unimportant) y 2 m. from the Landing, also empties into Big Otter Lake. A lumber-road leads from the Landing to Independence R. 3 m. N. Thence to Hitchcock L. it is iJS^ to 2 m, by good trail. From the end of that road up Independence R. it is \Y 2 m. to Alder Creek. At the Stillwater, 10 rods up this stream, is fine trouting. Hitchcock L. (75 a.) though muddy and devoid of in- teresting scenery, furnishes good "deering" and trouting, and hence is popular with sportsmen. From there it is j£ m. E. to Grass P.; thence 1 m. E. to Moose P.; and thence 2 3^ m. S. by compass, back to the river again. Thence it is 6 m. (line) up the stream to Independence Lake. Near the Falls, in S. Branch, 2 m. from Hitchcock's L. is found most excellent trouting. Again, by following the good path leading from the ter- minus of the road just named, 3% n>., we reach Independ- ence L. Total distance from B. Otter L., 8 or %y 2 m. This is preferred to the East Pond route. From the Big Otter L. dam, it is 1 % m. S. W. (trail) to Big Pine L. (See p. 83) and from N. shore of Big Otter, it is 4 m. N. (trail) to the silver mine named on p. 87 ; from there it is about 2 m. N. to Independence River.* The Fulton Chain, lying. 10 or 12 m. E. of Big Otter L , is reached by the aid of a compass, there being no trail. * Neither Independence R. nor Otter Creet— both tranches of Black E.— is navigable tor boats except on the stillwaters. LOWVILLE. 91 Ninth: — From Martinsburg Station to Watson, called Beach's Bridge, over a good road, 3 m.; thence to Crystal Lake,* 10^ m.; Number Four, 4% m. Total 18 m. For 9 m. after leaving Watson, the road is very sandy ; the re- mainder of the route lies through the woods, and though sometimes rough and muddy, is preferable to the first portion. Charles Fenton of Number Four, or the proprietor of the comfortable hotel at the Bridge, will meet parties, either at Martinsburg Station or Lowville, and carry them to No. 4, or Stillwater at reasonable rates. Tenth: — Lowville, charmingly situated upon a bright little stream, whose miniature canons and silvery cascades form many a romantic scene, is one of the tidiest, loveliest and wealthiest villages in Northern New York. Its broad and cleanly streets adorned with handsome business blocks and tasteful residences, are richly shaded with the stately elm and the sugar maple. The center of a large and rich farming country, it is naturally an important furnishing de- pot ; and being the home of refined and educated people, it is possessed of good schools, fine churches, and the best of social advantages. The Kellogg House, (formerly the "Howell,") is the leading hotel, and we do not know of an- other village in the State of the size of Lowville, that fur- nishes a better one. Thus the hotel accommodations, and the natural advantages of the place, render Lowville one of the best patronized locations on the route. The roads in this vicinity are excellent, affording fine drives and views for 20 m. around; the scenery abounds in the varied charms of high cultivation and of the wildest beauty of bluff, forest and chasm. The LOWVILLE MINERAL SPRINGS are about 1 mile W. of the village, and an omnibus con- nects with every passenger train in the summer season. The existence of mineral waters has been known here for many years, but it was not till 1872 that anything was done * Crystal L. is a handsome sheet, with waters as clear as a diamond. Ly- ing S. E. in the unbroken woods near the oia Mo. 4 road, is the very pretty deer resort, Half-Moon L.; so named from its crescent-shape. 9 2 THE ADIRONDACKS. by way of improvement. In that year one of the residents bought the springs and 6 acres of land adjoining, where, in a beautiful maple grove of some 200 trees he built a fine structure — and out-buildings— the " Grove House," sufficient for some 60 guests. (It has changed proprietors since.) The waters are highly sulphureted, and are shown by analysis and trial, to possess medicinal properties second to none in the State. The qu-iet seclusion of" the 'spot, and the charming scenery in the vicinity, render it a delightful place of sojourn in summer and autumn. A wild, rocky ravine a short distance from the premises, affords a pleasant ramble; and the road from the springs to the village is quite picturesque, affording glimpses of the great Wilderness in the blue distance, through a foreground of hemlock and cedar. chase's lake, 10 m. S. E of Lowville, (good road) is noted for its pleas- ant scenery and is often visited by pleasure parties. There is an extensive manufactory of Tanning Extract in the vicinity. Hotel accommodations and boats for visitors are found at the lake. The Unimportant Sand P. lies S. E. GULF AND RIVER SCENERY IN LEWIS CO., ON THE BORDERS OF- THE ADIRONDACKS. A broad plateau occupies the western border of Lewis County and eastern part of Oswego, extending from Jeffer- son to Oneida. The rock is of Utica slate, that becomes on decomposition a firm, impervious clay. The interior of this elevated plain contains extensive swamps, and gives rise to Fish Creek, running S. into Oneida Lake ; Salmon R. (Ind., Ga-hen-wa-gaj French, La Famine), running west to Lake Ontario; Deer R. (Ind., Ga-n^-ga-td da, "pounding corn"), flowing north, and several large streams running E. into Black R. The eastern slope of this plateau is known throughout Lewis County as Tug Hill* and forms a bold up- land rising fiiom the level, limestone country, to an elevation of 400 to 700 ft. The side-hill country back to a distance of several miles is an excellent dairying, region. -It has a deep, strong soil not liable to drouth, but often covered * This section is sometimes termed the "Lesser - Wilderness." CHIMNEY POINT, WHETSTONE GULF. 93 with deep snows in winter, and liable to be touched with late spring and early autumnal frosts. This side-hill be- ing composed of a soft, crumbling slate, is everywhere fur- rowed by running water. The smallest rivulet has worn its gorge, and even the spring rains and melting snows have made broad, deep channels in places altogether dry in summer. The larger brooks, especially Whetstone Creek, in the south part of the town of Martinsburg, and Martin's Creek, directly W. of Martinsburg Station (3 m.), have wrought out through centuries of time, gulfs of vast ex- tent, affording scenery that will compare favorably with the most noted of its kind in the State. If justly appreciated and widely known it would attract the attention of tourists and these places would become famous resorts. These streams, in winter powerful torrents, become so low in the summer as to afford no obstruction to crossing anywhere, and although not improved by stairways or other con- veniences, are easily accessible without great fatigue, and need no guide. CHIMNEY POINT derives its names from a huge triangular pyramid of slate rock having a fanciful resemblance to a chimney; and formed by the union of two gulfs. That on the S. side has a beautiful cascade some 60 ft. high. From a headland just over this fall, on the S. bank and in a dense evergreen thicket, we enjoy a charming prospect of the chasm, the wild and rugged gorge and fine agricultural plains beyond. The river valley and its eastern border rise into the forest region of the great North Woods until lost in the blue dis- tance, where dim traces of mountains on the extreme hori- zon rise into view, from whose summits the grander Adi- rondack peaks are plainly visible. The chasm is some 250 ft. deep and the chimney 150 ft. high. The best view is afforded by the banks ; country roads passing near them, and the immediate approach being across open fields. A thrilling incident occurred here in the spring of 1839. Chillus D. Peebles was engaged in clearing land and rolling the timber off the gulf to avoid the trouble of burning. By an unexpected movement of a log, he was thrown off the precipice, falling about 150 ft. and striking upon the steep 94 THE ADIRONDACKS. crumbling slope of slate gravel that had fallen from above. Down this he rolled and bounded to the bottom, ioo ft. farther; yet he was not so badly injured as to prevent his climbing to the top by the path usually followed; and with- out assistance. The N. branch of the gulf extends y 2 m. farther up, un- til we meet with several cascades, entirely preventing fur- ther progress. Above these, the gulf presents nothing of special interest, as it gradually rises to the level of the cul- tivated country beyond. The S. branch forms a gulf very difficult of access, some 50 rods up, and then suddenly ends at a beautiful fall known as the "Silver Cascade." Above this the stream is easily crossed, and its banks are low. This cascade can be seen to best advantage from the S. bank. WHETSTONE GULF, about 3 m. S. of Chimney Point, presents a greater amount and variety of scenery, and can be best viewed by passing through from the foot of the gulch upwards. Carriages can be driven about 1 m. up the ravine, which continues nearly 2 m. farther. As we go up this gorge, the timber disappears and the banks become very steep, with numerous sharp turns, presenting new points of interest at every step. The walls approach nearer in the upper portions, until both may be reached by the outstretched arms, and the torrent is compressed into a deep, narrow chasm that forbids further progress without great difficulty. There are safe climbing- places near the head of the gulf, and the scenery from the bank, especially on the N. side, is fine. This can be seen without fatigue or danger by those who do not wish to en- dure the exertion of climbing. At one point a tiny cascade falls the whole distance from the top, like a white ribbon, and almost wastes itself in spray before reaching the bot- tom. Snow lies in this gulf well into the summer. Travelers by railroad can best visit this scenery by stop- ping at Lowville, whence it is 6 m to Chimney Pt. and 7 m. to Whetstone Gulf. No hotel accommodations have been provided at either place, but a visit to both could be made in one day, without difficulty or danger. To the geologist they present a rare interest, from the fossils of the NUMBER FOUR. 95 Utica slate and Lorraine shales, which they contain in abundance. whittaker's falls, one mile S. E. of Martinsburg Village (on the same stream as Chimney Point) in their passage down the face of a ledge of limestone, form a very romantic scene. The rocks have many fossils peculiar to the Trenton limestone. The geologist by following the stream down some 2 m. farther to Martinsburg Station, will pass over this rock, the Black River limestone, a thin stratum of Potsdam sandstone and the gneiss or " primitive " rock so called, although itself stratified, evidently at a later period. Near the bottom of this limestone series, are strata from which water lime is made. HIGH FALLS are on Deer River, J^ m. below Copenhagen. The stream here makes a nearly vertical leap of 166 ft., into a chasm of limestone rock. The S. bank is 225 ft. high. By a rug- ged but not difficult path, a view may be obtained from be- low. On the N. side of the cascade, the rock presents a very steep inclination. It has been broken away, leaving a succession of small, narrow steps with slight projections, where the visitor may creep along a considerable distance up the bank, but not without imminent danger. Several instances have occurred of persons climbing to the top by this perilous way; and once a man of steady nerve passed from above down safely ; foolishly venturing where the slightest slip would have been fatal. KINGS FALLS, two and Y\ m. farther down this stream, form a cascade about 40 ft. high, of rare beauty. They were named in compliment to Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Naples and of Spain, by whom they were visited and much admired. (Franklin B. Hough.) These falls are eminently worthy of the attention of the tourist, and should not be over- looked. They are most conveniently reached by daily stage from Carthage, 5 m. distant; fare, 50 cts. * * * * * *** Two routes extend from Lowville to Number Four; one uniting with the Martinsburg route, at Watson, 3 m. dis- 96 THE ADIRONDACK^. tant; and the other leading via Smith's Landing, 2 m. dis- tant ; and thence to Dayansville, 3 m.; Crystal Lake, nj£ m ; No. Four, 4^ m.; merging into the Martinsburg route 7 m. from Watson. Total, 21 m. The latter road though the longer of the two (3 m.) is smoother and less sandy. Entering the clearing and passing on 5^ of a mile, we arrive at the Fenton House, a most suitable resort for those not desirous of camping out, and who, without leaving the R. R. more than a score of miles behind, would yet enjoy all the advantages in the way of the "line and the chase," that first-class sporting grounds afford. This explains why No. 4 has become such a popular rendezvous. Says W. Hudson Stephens of Lowville, in his admirable historical pamphlet published in 1864: — "To realize No. 4 is to seek and find repose — exclusion and without care — from the treadmill of labor, the anxieties of politics, the perplexi- ties of traffic, and from the chain-like task of a weary and overtasked brain. " The first settler in the vicinity of No. 4 is believed to have been Ephraim Craft, who made a clearing in 1820 on the Champlain road, on the S. side of Beaver R., beyond the present Fenton House. No traces of this ancient clearing are now perceptible. "One Lippincott first bought and lived one season at No. 4 in a stockade of upright sticks, between Francis and Beaver Lakes. "As in remote localities in new countries, inducements were pre- sented to the earlier settlers. In 1822 Gov. John Brown Francis of Rhode Island, the successor of his grandfather, John Brown, in the ownership of the famous " Tract " of which No. 4 was one of the 8 original townships, (Unanimity) offered a farm of 100 acres to the first ten men who would locate there. The adequate number speedily came. Following the ten pre-emptioners, other settlers came in shoals and schools. They presented as varied character of usefulness and merit, as the fish abounding in their streams and lakes. Orrin Fenton followed in 1826, and in 1835 the population had reached about 75. After this, becoming discouraged with the coldness of the climate, the unproduc- tiveness of the soil, and their absolute failure to obtain even a comfort- able livelihood in the untamable wilderness, one by one these pioneers removed to more inviting localities ; until this forest hamlet with all its improvements was nearly deserted, and the clearing originally compris- ing more than 1,000 acres, has since gone gradually back to its primitive condition. Here in this wild and lonely spot, Fenton and his busy house-wife lived for nearly 40 years, until his head was whitened with the snows of 79 winters. ' While years Have pushed his hride ol the woods, with soft and Inoffensive pace, Into the stilly twilight of her age.' THE FENTON HOUSE. 97 " With an intimate knowledge of every locality within miles, the run- ways of deer, the haunt of bear and panther, and resort of game ; the discoverer of lakes and streams, fish-holes, beaver meadows and wind- falls ; a faithful disciple of Walton — he quietly pursued the gentle avo- cations of fisherman and hunter, (keeping his house open to the public in the meantime) remote from busy haunts, and secluded beyond most men from the world, far beyond the average of life." Few men have made a better record than he ; and his mantle has fallen upon the equally worthy shoulders of his son Charles, who continues to cater to the wants of the public* Thus this famous hostelry, one of the most impor- tant in all the region, has been conducted by this family for nearly three-fourths of a century. What a record in hotel-keeping! The Fenton House, from a small and rude beginning, has grown into an extensive villa. In addition to the main structure, a large building (60 x 32) 2^ stories high, has been erected. The entire lower floor serves as a grand drawing-room for the guests. In this great hall, warmed by a huge fire-place and lighted by showy chandeliers, vari- ous kinds of amusements, including dancing and dramatic performances, are enjoyed by the visitors. Connected with the house are supplementary buildings, including a store, (well stocked with all kinds of supplies) and a post-office ; and clustered near are many substantial cottages, offering pleasant accommodations. A well, with a venerable sweep, supplies the house with some of "the best water in the world." The table offers every variety and is proverbially excellent. Charles Fenton, an accomplished sportsman, reliable woodsman, and a true lover of nature, is eminently popular with his guests, and few men are better qualified for managing such an establishment. (P. O. Number Four.) From the veranda and cupola of the hotel proper we en- joy a charming prospect of the sparkling waters of Beaver L., (lying about 140 ft. below) and a vast amphitheatre of densely wooded hills overlooked by distant and lofty peaks. The sight frequently witnessed in the early morning when the fog rises from this pretty lake and " daintily lifts its skirts from the mountains and picks its way over their sum- mits," is one of the fairest imaginable. There are so many delightful places of interest within easy reach of Fenton 's, that a tarry there never becomes " We tender Mr. Fenton our earnest thanks for important Information. 98 THE ADIRONDACKS. monotonous. Among these, the following should be noted : — Beaver Lake (t 1 ^ x 3^), an expansion of Beaver R., is attained by a pleasant descending path (^ m.) partially shaded by evergreen and other wild trees. Although in full view of the hotel, it is the frequent resort of deer. Near it, (S.) are Woodwardia and Beaver Ponds. By rowing down the lake (1 m.) to its outlet, N. W., and following thence r. N., a path i^{ m., Crooked Lake or Lake Agan is reached. Distance from Fenton's, 3j£ m. This is an unattractive sheet, so far as beauty of surroundings is concerned, but it has long been famed for the quantity and quality of its trout; though it has been overfished, and but few are taken nowadays after June 15th. Size of the lake,' i J^ m. x 20 rods, and ignoring its large, crescent- shaped bay, it is as straight as an arrow ; hence its very appropriate name (?). It is the favorite fishing ground of Patrick H. Agan, Esq , of Syracuse, N. Y , a gentleman who has furnished many interesting papers relative to this section, and who had much to do with the introduction of the measures adopted to preserve the Adirondack Wilder- ness from the hands of the spoiler. In fact, he may well be regarded as the father of that movement.* A trail leads E. from Crooked L. to the Moshier Ponds. To visit Sand L., a charming little pond (^ x j4) lying 1% m. farther N , and a favorite locality for deer hunting, row the length of Crooked L. (r J^ m.) and follow the trail leading from the head of that sheet. It has no trout. Its outlet is Fish Creek. Panther Bay is a remarkable resort for deer; and panthers, it is said, are occasionally heard there yet. About 3*4 m N. is Long P., of the Oswegatchie group. (See Route Eleventh^) ify m. N. E. are the two Spring P's (small) ; and not far W. are Upper and Lower Fish Creek Ponds. Those who would "float" with almost certain success, will paddle down Beaver River, to the large rock just below the portage to Crooked L., bridge their boat from this rock to another a few feet away, shoot the little rapids thence to the Stillwater beyond, and there obtain their venison. * Mr. Agan, once a confirmed invalid, is another living prool of the curative qualities belonging to this health-restoring region. > < -J < < EAGLE FALLS. 99 By descending the stream a short distance farther (2^ m. from Beaver L), passing over three intermediate carries 0-) of 3i 3° an d 7° rods, respectively, access is gained to one of the wildest and grandest scenes of the Tract, name- ly: Eagle Falls, (20 ft.). The circumstance of a pair of the "winged Arabs of the air," having built for a succession of years, their eyrie on a cliff overhanging this charming cas- cade, suggested the name. This is justly a favorite excur- sion from the hotel. Francis Lake (ij^ x J^), 1 m. S. E. of Fenton's, is still quite a deer haunt ; not noted for trout. Rather pretty. In Burnt Creek, outlet of Bell's P., (near Francis L., S. E.) there is a remarkable trout-pool, called "Burnt Spring Hole." It is about 3 m. S. W. of Fenton's, and is reached via the old Watson road, 2^/2 m., and path, (1.) J^ m. Two m. S. E. of that is the excellent trout stream, Pine Creek. One or 2 m. S. E. of Bell's P., is Panther Pond. Alder Creek, entering Beaver R. just above the Crooked Lake carry, is a fine trout stream. It is navigable J^ m. In the vicinity of its headwaters, Pepperbox P., &c, is the Seven Mile Meadow, (reached by hay road and blazed line) which is a favorite resort of the angler. Meadow Brook ^ rn. W. of Fenton's, and Sunday Creek and Slough Brook in the immediate neighborhood, also afford good sport. A lumber-road leads from No. 4 to "Botchford's Tan- nery " (n m.). From there it is 4^ m. to Otter L. (See p. 87.) Distances from Number Four to Lake Lila {Smith's Lake), MILES. To Francis Lake, by road, 1 - S Sunday Creek, Hog's Back, Lizard Spring, Stillwater, Loon Lake, South Branch, Little Rapids, 6 8 11 20% IO o THE ADIRONDACKS. MILES. Thence by River, - - - i3 /i Portage, - - Y\ River* - ' Vz Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (Albany Lake), 4 River, - }& Portage, 7 /i River, - 1% Total, - - 3°/^ The principal road into the Wilderness from No. 4, " the old Carthage road," is kept open and unobstructed as far as Little Rapids (branch toad) (20^ m.); beyond this to Brandreth's L. (71^ m.) wagons are no longer available, as the bridges intervening are either swept away or in no con- dition to be crossed. Parties occasionally, when the water is high (intent upon desperate adventure?) take boats at Beaver Lake for ascending the river. In this case, should they wish to tarry and fish on the way, bark camps, located 1 m. and 2 m., and also 5 or 6 m. above the lake, will af- ford them comfortable shelter for a night. Beginning with Big or High Falls (40 ft.) 2 m. above Beaver L., there are sixteen or eighteen distinct falls and rapids between that point and Stillwater; about 10 m. beyond, by the winding of this tortuous stream. Much of the scenery, especially that near the High Falls, reminds one of the far-famed Watkins Glen or Ausable Chasm. It is the common prac- tice, however, to follow the road ; the able-bodied traveling afoot, as it is so rough in places that the ride to Stillwater (n m.) is far from enjoyable. Lying S. of the road between No. 4 and Stillwater, are Sunday, Reefer's and Abortive Ponds. Fourth Creek, out- let of latter, is a fine trout-stream. From a point about 4 m. above Beaver L., a blind trail extends from the river N. 3 m to the four Moshier Ponds, f * Or road (2 m.) Jrom Little Rapids to loot o£ Ne-ha-sa-ne (Albany) Lake. t These small ponds were named alter their discoverer, John G. Moshier, the distinguished sportsman residing at Lowville. They are most conven- iently reached from No. 4, by trail N. E. 5 m. Their wai-m and shallow waters contain no trout. The "loo Acre" P. and several other ponds Ue near them • and Bear and Pepperbox P's some distance W. BEAVER RIVER CLUB. 101 These waters, being seldom disturbed, are the common resort of deer. This is equally applicable to numerous other lakes and lakelets usually well supplied with trout, lying still deeper in the wilderness. Hence the peculiar attractiveness of this particular section as a sporting terri- tory. Perhaps 7 m. farther up the stream (3^ m. below Still- water), a path is taken also N. to another and larger group of ponds, styled the " Eleven Lakes," from 1 to 8 m. dis- tant. These include the North Creek Chain, embracing Lower North L., Big or Upper North L., and others, forming the pretty little stream, North Creek, flowing into the Beaver. The first one of any importance is Kettle Hole P., 2 m. from the river. Carry from Kettle Hole P. 1 ^ m. N. E. to Lower North L. (j^ x J^), now generally called Shallow or Raven Lake: a handsome, shallow sheet; thence 1 m. N. E. to Big North L. (1 x ^) usually termed Long L. and possessed of considerable attraction; thence ^ m - N. E. to Cold or Bear L. (3^ x^)a lovely, crystalline loch flowing into the Middle Branch of Oswegatchie River. Almost touching its southern shore (}4 m.) is Dog Pond. North of Cold Lake 1 J^ m. is Humbug P.; y±. m. N. E. are the two Silent Ponds; }4 m. E. is Secret (Leonard) Pond; 3 miles E. is Hawk (Emerald) Lake, and 2 m. S. W. is charming, island-gemmed Lake Sunshine (% x }4). From here it is 1 m. S. of E. to Raven L. and 1 ^ to 3 m. W. to the Moshier Ponds. Muskrat P. is a short distance S. W. of Raven Lake. Evergreen L., belonging to the "Chain," lies 1 m. E. of Kettle Hole Pond. (See p. 108.) These diversified waters are usually reached by carries. Trout are rarely found in the North Creek Chain ; but deer are frequently killed on the borders. Stillwater-on-the-Beaver is really where navigation commences with parties passing up toward the headwaters of this stream. At this important point on a commanding plateau is located the Beaver River Club House, for many years successfully run as a hotel. The Club is incorporated and is limited to fifty members. The present trustees are 102 THE ADIRONDACK^. Rev. Henry R. Lockwood and S. C. Hayden of Syracuse, R. J. Richardson of Lowville, R. H. Smith of Little Falls, and W. D. Moshier of Utica. The following are the charter members: N. L. Phipps, C. M. Raymond, Park M. Wooley, A. H. Hatfield, D. L. Daly, of New York City; Rev. H. R. Lock- wood, Dr. J. W. Candee* Frank H. Wells, W. P. Good- elle and S. C. Hayden, of Syracuse, N. Y.; Chas. W. Wicks, Lester Griffith, Geo. B. Starbuck, John C. Hoxsie, Edward Kirkland, Chas. Moshier, W. D. Moshier, E. R. Comstock and H. L. Herley, of Utica, N. Y.; J. G. Moshier, A. C. Boshart, S. B. Richardson, R. J. Richardson, W. H. Morri- son and John D. Moore, of Lowville, N. Y.; A. K. Hale, of Adams, N. Y.; J. H. Tamblin, of Copenhagen, N. Y.; R. H. Smith and W. T. Loomis, of Little Falls, N. Y.; and Samuel E. Cary, of E. Orange, N. J. The property comprises the main building, several cot- tages, (many more are to be erected) and about 200 acres of land formerly owned by the well-known "Joe" Dunbar. A lease has been secured of 8,000 acres adjacent, and 15,000 or 20,000 acres additional will doubtless be acquired. This choice sporting ground nearly touches the famed Mid- dle Branch of Oswegatchie River at the north, and joins the Webb preserve on the east. It embraces part of the Red Horse Chain, most of the North Creek group, a great extent of Beaver River (15 to 18 m.), and a number of other inviting waters. As a fishing and hunting center, Stillwater has long been famous and continues to maintain that reputation. The principal structure has been fashioned anew to meet the requirements of the members, and the premises gen- erally have been greatly improved. At present, transient guests are furnished with good entertainment at the club- house, and sporting privileges, with reasonable restrictions are granted them. Beaver River Station on the Adirondack & St. Law- rence R. R. is only dV 2 miles distant. There travelers will be met by conveyances, if notice has been given in advance * The author desires to express Ms acknowledgments to Dr. J. Willis Can- dee, of Syracuse, for Important Information furnished by him relative to this section and the Oswegatchle watei'S. > 5 > < in CQ Z o THE HERMITS OF STILLWATER. 103 of their arrival; or they may take the steamer for Stillwater, at Beaver River Landing, one mile from the railroad sta- tion. The house has telephone connection with Lowville and Beaver River Station. (Post Office, Number Four.) Stillwater P. at this place, though assuming the form of a pretty little lake, is really an outgrowth of the river. A few rods east of the Club House, Twitchell Creek, (the outlet of Twitchell L.), a crystal trout-stream, with its series of delightful cascades, enters the Beaver. Two m. S. of this point rises Stillwater Mt. (path to sum- mit) whose southern base is laved by the waters of Hitch- cock L,, while Hitchcock P. lies at the foot on the N. E. side. The path from the house to the top of this elevation (3 m. distant) passes through the border of a swamp, so closely set with evergreen trees as to form a thicket nearly impenetrable to man. This morass is a wonderful breed- ing-ground for deer. The summit of the eminence affords an admirable survey of the surrounding country, — forests, mountains, lakes and streams revealing themselves in every direction. Years ago, about 1820, Smith, the hermit, located at this sequestered place, (Stillwater) and remained until encroaching hunters drove him still farther from civilization (1830) (See Smith's L or Lake Lila.) He was succeeded about 14 years later by another equally singular re- cluse, Jimmy O'Kane, who dwelt here in solitude until his death in 1858. He died alone in his shanty, and a rude wooden monument marks his resting-place. " Found dead and alone! Nobody heard his last faint groan, Or knew when his sad heart ceased to beat ; No mourner lingered with tears or sighs, But the stars looked down with pitying eyes, And the chill winds passed with a wailing sound O'er the lonely spot where his form was found." Beaver River, (Ind., Ne-ha-sa-ne, "beaver crossing stream on a log,") is 80 or 90 m. long, and from its extreme source, within 100 rods of Beach's Lake (Trout Pond), and within 5 or 6 m. of Raquette Lake, flows in a southwesterly direc- tion, in a line nearly parallel with that of Moose River. It drains, in its passage, 70 or 80 handsome lakes and ponds, and discharges its waters into the Black River, some 8 m. 104 THE ADIRONDACK^. below Lowville, near Castorland. Fifty miles of its course is buried in a dense, unbroken wilderness, rarely trodden by the foot of man. But several habitations in all this ex- tent, indicate any encroachment upon its primitive charac- ter. Throughout most of this, distance, the scenery in- vesting its borders is full of wildness; ofttimes of beauty. The foliage lining the stream, in various places, is almost tropical in its luxuriance. NE-HA-SA-NE PARK. Dr. W. Seward Webb is the owner of the most extensive game preserve in this or any other country. It lies mostly in the counties of Herkimer and Hamilton, and embraces 250,000 acres — 40,000 acres more than the famous " John ' Brown's Tract " contained. Within its limits are the fol- lowing bodies of water : — Albany (Ne-ha-sa-ne), Big Moose, Cascade, Clear (Fall), Crooked, First and Second (North Branch), Gull, Grigg's, Little Rock, Loon, Lost, Moss, Oven, Panther, Partlow, Red Horse Chain -(Clear, Nigger and Witch Hop- ple), Rock, Sand, Silver, Smith's (Lila), Terror, Thayer's, Twitchell, Wolf and Wood's Lakes; and Arthur, Beaver, Bub's, Covey, East, Five, Game, Green, Hackmetack, Har- rington, Higby Twins, Lily, Marenus, Moose, Oswego, Ot- ter, Raynor, Rock, Rose, Sis, Slender, South, Thirsty, Trout, Twitchellette, Two Sisters, West and Wild Goose Ponds. Also numerous streams— the principal one being Beaver River. To the larger portion of this vast area (133,000 acres) Dr. Webb has given the name of Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. We have been informed that it is his intention to have a belt cleared 100 ft. in width, completely encircling the park, whose circumference is upwards of 60 miles. This will serve to prevent forest fires. On the inner border of this clearing a ribbon-wire fence will be constructed impenetra- ble to dogs and other animals. To the game already abounding, he will add a number of moose; not to be hunted within 5 or 8 years. A competent superintendent and many assistant forest-wardens will have charge of the NE-HA-SA-NE PARK. 105 park, and Prof. B. E. Fernow, Chief of the Forestry Bureau of the United States, will occupy the position of grand forester. Thus, carefully protected and managed, this great domain — mostly clothed with virgin forest, teeming with moose, deer, ducks, partridges, and other game ; its numerous waters, with brook and lake trout — will be truly an Ideal Sportsmen's Preserve. From Stillwater to Little Rapids there is a reach of nav- igation of 20 or 22 miles, uninterrupted save occasionally by a fallen tree over which boats must be lifted. On ac- count of the sinuosity of the stream, most tourists prefer the land route, even at the expense of a wearisome journey. The ride or walk, however, is one of considerable enjoy- ment. Admitting that the corduroys and other rough bits of road encountered are not very agreeable; yet the wild beauty of the woods — the route lying largely through an avenue of delicate evergreens silvered by the fairy birch and forming a fragrant and delightful arcade — should fully atone for the discomfort our bones and muscles have to undergo. Let us examine the different points of interest embraced by both routes, and first the one by land : 1. Two and one-half m. beyond Stillwater, a path leads to the r. from the road, % m. to Mud P. y 2 m. long. Loon Lake, lying within 20 r. of the road (1.), is a beauti- ful little sheet ^ m. 1 , whose outlet empties into Beaver River. A handsome, pine-tree-covered island of 4 acres, called Round Island, rises near its center. Though often visited by hunters, it is still frequented by deer, and trout are abundant in its waters. Here was located the noted "Rock Shanty," so named from a large boulder forming the back of this woodland shelter (4^ m. from Stillwater). Wood's, or Sylvan Lake (3^ x %), is reached by trail from Mud P.; or from the road, % m. W. of Loon L.; the trail passing near Lily P. Distance, 2^ m. S. Some pro- nounce this charming lough, "the lake of the woods." It is 106 THE ADIRONDACKS. indeed a gem of beauty set in the emerald forest. Its waters — almost as transparent as air — teem with speckled trout, and the shores are the common resort of deer. At the head is a large, smooth, natural lawn, where cranberry- vines abundantly grow. Near the foot, a peculiar rock lifts its summit above the surface. A trail leads to Twitch- ell L. 4 m. S.; passing Oswego P. (3 m.) The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. nearly touches the eastern side of Sylvan Lake. The old route to Big Moose Lake, S. E., offering the advantage of perfect solitude, leaves the State road ij4 m. E. of Loon L. It was formerly traveled by pack-horses, but the road is partially grown over now and is but little used. Twitchell Lake lies on the way, 6 m. from the main road. The better route leads from South Branch 1% m. farther E., as follows: Road, 2 m.; thence path to Twitch- ell L., s m.; thence by boat, )4 m.; thence carry ^ m. to Mud P.; thence carry 2% m. to Big Moose L. Total, 10^ m. This is passable for pack-horses as far as Twitchell Lake. (See p. 73). Twitchell L. (2 x }(), is an interesting body of water, beautified by several islands and islets, and encircled by densely wooded heights. Far from ihe beaten line of travel, it is wild and lonely enough to satisfy the most retiring anchorite. It received its unpoetic title from a settler, re- joicing in that name, who once made a clearing near by. Its outlet, flowing over a rocky ledge, forms a pretty cascade (10 ft.). This, and Wood's L., are especially sequestered, and their solitudes have been seldom invaded except by the trapper and adventurous sportsman. The scenery around them is very attractive, and but for the difficulty in reach- ing them with boats, they would soon become favorite haunts, as game and fish are always plentiful.* Both are tributary to Twitchell Creek, a stream entering the Beaver a few rods E. of Stillwater. (See p. 103.) Hiram Burke (P. O. Lowville), the very efficient guide, has a substantial hunting lodge on the N. shore of Twitch- ell L., where sportsmen, we believe, are still entertained * This was before this district was Invaded by the railroad. V"$ X*-**;7?,?SIj? ... J*-: . .V,MBS( mmmi '^MWi^/' Jk Amm&mmu X u z < a CQ x f- O CO X a o x a < U G < ai SOUTH BRANCH. 107 and furnished with the best fare that the forest affords. When desired, he will conduct his guests (no better woods- man than he) to the various fine sporting grounds in the neighborhood, providing permission is granted by Dr. Webb. In the immediate vicinity, in different directions, are twelve or fifteen tiny ponds; usually swarming with large trout, and gleaming like gems in their solitary fastnesses amid the deep green of the forest. These include Silver, Oswego, Arthur, Mud, Marenus, East, South, Otter, Buck, Thirsty, Sunshine, Hackmetack and Twitchellette. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. passes near Twitchell L. (Big Moose Station). " South Branch," a pleasant clearing watered by the stream bearing that name, is a well known locality to the old-time frequenters of this portion of the Wilderness. For many years it was the abiding place of the famous guide, trapper and hunter, Chauncey Smith, of Number Four. Many were the recipients of his hospitality. His " Elk Horn Shanty " was indeed an ' 'oasis" to many a weary traveler who called on his way to or from the headwaters of the Beaver. Uncle Chauncey has gone to the "Happy Hunting Grounds," we trust, and his cabin has since become a wreck. Another woodsman, and most eccentric recluse, Carl Hough, afterward made his abode near this spot, and lived in seclusion for several years, following his occupation of trapper and hunter, In his neat little bark camp, Carl cordially welcomed all who applied for shelter or information. In woodcraft he is an expert, and none under- stands the forest better than he. He was succeeded by Harris ; and it rests with Dr. Webb to say whether this hermit of the forest will be al- lowed to remain in Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. Beaver River Station, on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. is near this point. At the confluence of E. and S. Branch; the former flow- ing from Rose P. and Terror L. not many miles distant and the latter from Wild Goose and Moose P's, still deeper in the heart of the forest; S. E. of Harris' cabin, perhaps J^ m., is a notable spring-hole. Here, the fisher rarely throws his fly in vain. Two m. beyond South Branch, the road divides; the 1. leading to Little Rapids (}4 m.); and the r. the Carthage road, to Beach's L., (7 j4 m ). From the lat- ter route, 2 to 4 m. beyond the forks, footways lead N. to Thayer's Lake, and S. to Rose and Deer Ponds, lying near the road, and to Terror, etc., Lakes, more remote. (See route from Albany Lake to these waters!) I0 8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 2. One mile above Stillwater the outlet of Tultle L. {% x %) enters the river, (1.); and up this stream we pass with a boat % m - t0 reach tnat unimportant sheet. From the river, near the outlet of Tuttle L., we carry i m. N. to Peaked Mt. L. {*4 x %); generally the home of a colony of hedgehogs. From near the same point (on the river)' a carry leads i% m. N. to the captivating Hanks' P. \}l x H)< and another 1% m. N. of E. to Evergreen L. (1 x V 2 ), a crystal gem in emerald setting, sparkling on the crown of a nameless mountain, 1 m. E. of Kettle Hole P. It is within easy reach of the club-house : first a pleasant boat-ride, and then a ramble over a good, gently-ascending path conveying us to the spot. It is a favorite resort, es- pecially of ladies, on account of its beauty and accessibility and is the objective point of many a picnic excursion. Two miles above the Tuttle L. outlet, a carry leaves the river (1.) for Fish P.; so called because it contains no fish. One and 1 Yz m. farther up the stream, a path is taken (r.) to Little Burnt Lake (^ x J^), only 5 or 6 r. distant. Half a mile above this (5 m. from Stillwater) there is an artificial canal (called the "Dutch Gap") 4 rods long, which saves Y* m. of paddling around a bend of the river, usually well filled with drift wood. Two m. above that, a stream empties into the Beaver, (1.) flowing from a series of 12 or 15 lakes and ponds, N., termed the "Red Horse Chain,"* offering very attractive scenery. These are regarded as superior fishing and hunt- ing localities, and are reached with boats over passable portages, as follows :— Carry to Burnt L. (f x |), Yi m.; a comely sheet, until forest-fires converted the surroundings into a dreary, burnt waste. Carry thence to Little Round or Trout P. (j^ x %), % m.; thence from W. side of inlet 1 1 m. to Salmon L., (ijl x ^). This lake is hemmed in by mountain-peaks, and greatly admired for its picturesque features. Carry thence ij^m. to Witchhopple L. (5^ x yi)\ thence yi m. to Clear L , (^ x Y2) — water exceeding pure, * Thus named from the red-horse sucker abounding In an Inlet of one of these lakes. THE RED HORSE CHAIN. 109 and "fat" with trout ; shores rocky and romantic. One of its inlets affords remarkable sport. Crooked L. ( 2 x i}4), fountain head of Oswegatchie River, distinguished for its numerous big trout, is reached from Clear L. by a \ m. portage leading North; Mud-hole, sometimes called Summit P. because it lies on the water- shed between the Beaver and Oswegatchie waters, lying midway. It is a wonderful deer resort. Crooked L. is a lovely sheet of crystal clearness, mar- gined with bold and romantic shores, and embellished by several islands. Its shape is peculiar, approaching the form of a W. Two pretty ponds lie near it. Covey P. is fy m. S. W. by carry. A trail leads from Crooked L. N. E. to the Oswegatchie and the Bog River waters. East of Crooked L. about 2 m. lies Nigger Lake (ij4 x yi) the uppermost link of the Red Horse Chain. It is en- veloped by scenery richly picturesque, and is considered the gem of the group; though each has its peculiar and dis- tinctive charm. Being extremely difficult of access, and therefore left almost entirely undisturbed by sportsmen, its borders are the frequent resort of deer, and its waters are amply stocked with portly trout, comprising both speckled and salmon. Some of the former attain the unusual weight of 3 lbs.; and the peculiarly dark color of the flesh of the latter, some say of the water, (shaded by walls of black spruce,) originated the name of the lake. Carry 13^ m. W. to Clear Lake. About 1 y 2 m. N. of Nigger L. is the interesting Oven L.; and 2^/2 m. N E. (carry) is Gull L (1 x J() noted for its romantic beauty and fine fishing. Deer Mt. and other pin- nacles overshadow its waters.* Crooked L. is a,y 2 m. W.; Oven L. (y^ x yf) 1 m. W.; and Little Deer P. 1 % m. E. of Gull L. Cracker P. is about 2 m. distant. A carry extends from Gull L. to Partlow L., lying about 2 m. S. E. This sheet, also Gull, Oven, Little Deer and * "The Old Military Road" passes within a mile of Oven L. Remains of an oven, still discernible, gave this sheet Its name. The oven Is said to have been built by soldiers In the war of 1812 ; but It Is more reasonable to sup- pose that It was made by the builders of the road, or by surveyors to use In sheltering their Instruments. HO THE ADIRONDACKS. Cracker, are sources of Oswegatchie R. Wolves still make this wild section their habitation. From Nigger L. it is 2 m. E. by carry to Partlow L., from which we carry 3 m. S. of E. to Lake Lila. From Nigger L. a marked line leads to Big Rock L. about 2 m. S. Between Nigger and Witchhopple L's, S. W., lies Beaver Dam, or Goggle P., a fine deer resort and another link of the "Chain"; and by this leads the carry (2 m.) connecting these two lakes. From Beaver Dam we may reach Big Rock L. by carrying 2 m. S. E. North of Witchhopple L. are three little ponds; and E. of N. y% m. by carry, is Little Rock L., an interesting rock- «nvironed sheet with three islands. (Big Rock and Little Rock L's are not members of the Red Horse Chain.) Higby Twin P's lie about 1% m. (carry) W. of Witch- hopple Lake. Bear or Hurricane P. is a short distance N. E. of Salmon Lake. From near the head of Salmon L. (little white birches marking the spot) a carry leads N. W. over a mountain ii/£ m. to Hawk, or Emerald L. (*4 x J^). This "Lake of the Mountains" is so imprisoned within a circle of forest- clad peaks as to form a charming picture. Deer are usually plentiful here. West of Hawk L. about 2}4 m. is Secret or Leonard P., and Yz m. W. of that is Bear or Cold Lake. (See p. 101.) North East of Hawk L. about 4 m., is Game Pond. From the foot of Hawk L. a blazed line leads to George L. 2 m. S. W. Some regard this as the best deer lake in the woods. Bear L. lies S W. of it. These last three lakes, and others near, were formerly called the Wolf Ponds, and ihey discharge into Beaver R. Nearly all of the waters just named adorn the private property, Ne-ha -sa-ne Park. [See following routes from Little Rapids and Albany Lake to the Red Horse Chain!) Near the mouth of the Red Horse stream, where a spring bubbles out of the sand, and the carry to Burnt L. is taken, usually stands a comfortable camp, frequently occupied for a night by parties passing up or down the Beaver. From the opposite side of the river a carry leads S. E., y 2 m. to Loon L. South Branch, entering the river, r. about. 15 m. LITTLE RAPIDS. Ill above Stillwater, affords good sport to the fisherman. By ascending this stream 50 or 60 rods and following a path thence r. V 2 m. Harris's hermitage may be visited. (See p. 107.) Little Rapids, 5 m. beyond the mouth of South Branch, (carry r. % m.) is as important station on this route, as well as a central point from which to visit many interesting places in the vicinity. Here just above the seething waters of the river, is located the "Little Rapids Hotel ; " now closed to the public and used by one of Dr. Webb's forest-wardens. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. crosses the stream a short distance from this spot and the station bears the name of Little Rapids. A sled-road leads hence N. 92 rods to Clear P. or Fall L. { 3 A x }{)> a noted trout and deer resort; and one thence N. 1% m. to Big Rock L. (1 }4 x }i)< whose waters, though deep and cold, contain scarcely any trout, a strange excep- tion to the general rule. The bottom of the lake is thickly strewn with rocks; and ledges rise from the shores of Beaver Bay several hundred ft. high, whose perpendicular walls remind one of the Pali- sades of the Hudson. A rock-girded island, but clad with evergreens, gems its surface, giving increased variety to the scenery. By following a trail, (starting at Beaver Bay,) 2 or 2% m. N., Nigger L. is reached ; and other members of the Red Horse Chain are accessible from Rock Lake by way of Beaver Dam Pond, N. W. Only by the assistance of marked trees and compasses is it practicable to follow these rarely traveled pathways. (See p. 109.) Resuming our journey up the Beaver: — About 1% m. above Little Rapids, near a sand-bar, (1.) where a little brook enters the river, is the most remarkable of the many spring-holes that furnish excellent trout fishing along this stream. One-half mile above that, Long Rapids are reached ; through which also the boats must be dragged, or carried, r. over the good portage, f£ m. There is a road from Little Rapids to this point (2 m.) Thence to Albany or Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (}£ m.) navigation is considerably ob- structed by boulders. Big Moose Lake and the intermediate waters are some- 112 THE ADIRONDACK^. times visited from this lake and from Little Rapids by the following route, starting from Beaver R. about J^ m. below the foot ; a large rock marking the spot : — Rough carry, S. E. i m. to Thayer's Lake, formerly called "Aurora," (i x y 3 ). This is a singular sheet, with handsome bays, but no islands. Discharges into Beaver R. It affords fair " deering " and trouting. Colonies of gulls have here their breeding place. Thence good portage S. i m. to Rose P. (% x J^) (fine fishing and hunting in this section); the route crossing the Carthage road within 60 r. of it. Then fair carry S. 3 m. to Lake Terror (ij^ x %), where prime sporting ground. is found — though better for deer than trout, as its seclusion is seldom penetrated by hunters, on account of the hardship attending such an excursion. (See p. 120 ) It received its name from an incident that occurred in the experience of two hunters, Chas. and Geo. Fenton, who were overtaken near its shores by a terrible storm and compelled to spend the night, without shelter, exposed to all its fury. The new carry to Terror L. starts from the Carthage road about % m. E. of Rose P. This has been traveled by pack-horses. A "line" extends from Terror Lake, S. 3 m. to Big Moose Lake. (See p. 73.) Slim P. and a number of other sheets lying between Big Moose and Beach's Lakes, have hardly been explored, even by the enterprising trapper. Deer P. (Cedar L.) lies }i m. S. of the Carthage road, 2 m. E. of Rose P., and 4 m. from Little Rapids. Its shape is nearly circular (}£ x }4); and its cedar-fringed banks and emerald island invest it with a peculiar charm. Albany Mt. rises near. Two-pound, speckled trout are its chief commodities; and the quality of its water and lily- pads is frequently tested by its namesake. Shingle Shanty L. (1 x J^), j4 m. S., is reached by a good portage. It is a pleasant sheet, clear of rocks, and abound- ing in small trout and some deer. East of this is Unknown P.; and farther E. is Little Deer P. near Brandreth's Lake. West P. is about \\i m. N. E. of Shingle Shanty L.; whence it is fy m. S. to Brandreth's Lake. The "Old Military Road" opened by the Government in 1812, be- tween some point on Lake George or Lake Champlain and Ogdensburg NE-HA-SA-NE LAKE. 1 13 or Sackett's Harbor, for the purpose of transporting artillery and other munitions over it to the St. Lawrence, passes near Shingle Shanty L. and Deer P. An interesting relic in the form of a cannon has recently been unearthed in this vicinity; and at Albany L , 4^ or 5 m. from here, traces are still observed of the bridge once spanning the "narrows" of that sheet. "Starting from Russell (St. Lawrence Co.) this road thread- ed the valley of Grass R., whence it diverged in a southerly direction towards the region of the lakes, penetrating the whole extent of the forest. It is said to have been originally laid out with considerable en- gineering skill. But only one vehicle (unless gun-carriages may be termed such) ever passed over it. Now, it is a tangled yarn, and no twister ever twisted a twist like it." The route can be traced but with difficulty. The careful observer however may follow its devious course by noticing the evenness of size of the large yellow birches which thick- ly cover its line, and occasional remains of corduroys and causeways. It is evident that there were two of these roads, both being opened from Russell. The one leading to Lake George, touched Big Tupper Lake, Childwold Park and Long Lake. A rough carry extends also from near the outlet of Al- bany L., N. W. 2 m. to Big Rock L. A few rods E. of where this carry starts, at the mouth of Alder Creek, is an- other favorite spring-hole. The S. W. portion of the lake is known as Bull Frog or Lower Bay, and embraces about }i of its - entire extent (5 x fy). (See p. in.) Albany Lake, recently named Ne-ha-sa-ne by Dr. Webb, is especially attractive to sportsmen, for the reason that it is a remarkable resort for deer and large speckled and sal- mon trout. This is somewhat surprising so far as deer are concerned, as the lake is a common thoroughfare. But the rich aquatic pastures of pond lilies and grassy verdure that abound, especially on the Lower Bay, present a temptation which they are unable to resist. The upper portion of the lake, in direct contrast to that of the lower part, presents a pleasing variety of sandy reaches, rocky shores and wooded heights. It is singular in shape, being composed of three bays connected by narrow straits. Proceeding up the lake, we pause at the " bridge place " to examine what remains of the old structure. From this point, it is 4 m. S. E. to the Carthage road via the Military Road just named. The lake derived its name from the fact that this trail of Mars was sometimes called the "Al- bany Road". 114 THE ADIRONDACKS. A short distance above the "bridge" we pass a huge boulder that rises from the water, called Elephant Rock, from its resemblance to that animal; and passing Punkey or Panther Island, soon reach the neck connecting the two larger portions of the lake. By the smooth sandy beach on South Bay near E end of the lake was located the substantial "Maryland Camp," with two cold springs near. {Private property of Dr. Webb) At the head of the little bay ("Perkins's Pt.") a short distance W. of the Maryland Camp, where a little brook (S. Inlet) discharges its waters, the most noted spring-hole of the section may be found. Shingle Shanty Stream, i m. E, a famous deer and trout resort, is reached by a good carry, leading from the white sand beach a short distance E. of this camp. Leaving Ne-ha-sa-ne L , and passing up the inlet a few rods, the third rapids are encountered. (We will note here, "once and for all," that all such rapids in the region are the common haunts of trout.) Boats may at some risk and by great exertion be dragged up the stream here, but they are usually carried, 1. over the good portage, (road) ]/fa m. At the head of these rapids stands a dilapidated dam, built by order of the State about the year 1864, in fur- therance of a plan for improving the navigation of the Beaver, for the benefit of lumbering interests. An appro- priation of $10,000 was made by the Legislature and was wasted in an abortive attempt to accomplish this object. A passage of ij^ m. up the river from this point brings us to Smith's Lake, the queen of the Brown's Tract waters — recently denominated Lake Lila, by Dr. Webb in com- pliment to his wife. In attractiveness of surroundings, and its own bewitching beauty, many esteem it the peer of that pearl of the Adirondack waters, Blue Mt. Lake. It is certainly a worthy rival of that more celebrated sheet. It is (2% x 2^4), and nearly cruciform in shape. It encircles seven or eight picturesque islands, upon one of which (Pine) traces of an Indian fortress are still ap- parent. Springs of deliciously cold water are found on the shores. Salmon trout weighing upwards of 20 lbs. are sometimes LAKE LILA. SMITH, THE HERMIT. 115 taken from the lake, and speckled trout of unusual size are also obtained. Pratt's Mt. (sometimes called Smith's Rock), named in honor of the late Judge Pratt of Syracuse, rises from the N. W. side. The tourist should ascend this bold and barren summit and survey the. imposing scenery spread before him. The ascent is made with only a limited amount of toil. From the crown, the principal peaks of the Adiron- dacks, including Mt. Marcy and Blue Mt., are clearly per- ceptible, and the eye rests upon a scene more striking and beautiful than that surveyed from many loftier elevations. In the year 1830 an Englishman located at the base of this mountain, near the beach, and for a long period led a hermit's life, with no companions but his dogs and gun. Several acres of land were cleared by him, now covered by a thrifty growth of smallish trees. "None knew aught of his history, whence he came, to whom related, or by whom begot." One winter some hunters in pursuit of deer, upon visiting his lodge found it silent and deserted. From that day to this the mysterious stranger known as Smith, has never been seen — nor has anything been heard of his fate; and from that day to this, this lonely but lovely inland sea, surrounded on all sides by forests primeval, and nestled in the bosom of a group of lofty hills and picturesque moun- tains, has been known as Smith's Lake. — [James Grant Wilson.] (See p. 103.) The path we follow in ascending Pratt's Mountain, leads from Smith's clearing. It is said that once, while Smith was eating his dinner, a piece ot moose-meat lodged in his throat, which he could not remove. While in this predicament he was able to drink, but not to eat. Several days elapsed, and he was approaching starvation. His condition had be- come desperate. It was in the depth of winter and the wilderness. In the height of despair he laced on his snow-shoes and started for Num- ber Four, about 30 m. distant. After a weary and terrible journey, the horrors of which few can realize, he reached Fenton's, perfectly ex- hausted. He entered the house, and unbidden, staggered to the pan- try, seized a pan of milk, and had drank nearly all of its contents, when the meat suddenly left his throat and he was saved. On the N. W. shore, in a pleasant location, is " Smith's Lake House," no longer used as a hotel, but occupied by Il6 THE ADIRONDACK^. Dr. Webb's forest-wardens. Ne-ha-sa-ne Station, on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. is in the vicinity. A short distance E. of the "hotel," at the Harrington spring-hole, the hard carry starts for Raynor or West P. (4 x I) 2 m. N. It is prettily set in the midst of mountains ; and while it yields no trout, is frequently visited by deer. The Red Horse Chain is reached from Lake Lila via Partlow L. 3 m. N. W.; whence other most interesting waters in the neighborhood are visited. (See pp. 108-110 ) The Tupper waters are accessible from Lake Lila by three routes. Two of them are indirect and difficult, but possess the advantage of passing through some of the best sporting grounds of the Brown's Tract region. 1. Carry from mouth of North Inlet (first sand beach), }i m. N.; row up the outlet % m.; cross Harrington Pond % m.; thence carry from head of pond, 1 m. N.; cross Clear Pond (rightly named, but what is remarkable, containing no trout), y 2 m ; thence carry 5 m. N; cross Bog Lake (1^ x yi); thence carry from a point on N. side, about midway of its length, 3 m. N. (a rough and hilly portage); or de- scend the outlet, pushing your way most laboriously through interlocking alders that line this dismal stream, 4 m. to Mud Lake; thence to Big Tupper Lake, it is 17^ m. (See route from Tupper to Mud Lake!) Bog Lake ! What a misnomer ! as there is no marsh in the vicinity. It was formerly supposed to be the highest source of Bog River instead of Clear P., which is really the headwaters of that stream ; hence its name. Its shores are of the most romantic character; several bold promontories jutting into its waters and a picturesque island giving com- pleteness to the scene. It is indeed the liquid personifica- tion of beauty. No finer trouting (speckled) is found in that section than this lake affords. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. passes near. (Bog Lake Station.) CHARLEY S POND. 117 2. Direct route : — Carry from the sandy beach N. E. shore; the place being indicated by a rocky point, upon which is a sparse and stinted growth of cedar trees. On one of these trees, serving as a guide board, is usually penciled: — " i^ 5 " Portage to Charley's Pond, i}( m." This portage is quite uneven and considerably inter- rupted by fallen trees. A prettier sheet than Charley's Pond (% x %) is rarely seen. Perfectly sequestered, "with not a hand's breadth of civilization around it," it is a congenial spot for deer and trout. Its name was probably derived from the follow- ing incident, given by James Grant Wilson, in the language of one of his guides: — "Eight years ago I was out deer-hunting in the winter with two other men. At Charley's Pond, which was frozen over, Charley Brown said he was going across after a deer. We told him it was unsafe, but he would go, although the ice was thin and rotten, and, when about twen- ty yards from shore, he fell through. Both being heavier men, we were afraid to venture on the ice to aid him, but we threw him a pole, which he got hold of, and driving it into the muddy bottom of the lake, there about ten feet deep, climbed up on the ice, which again gave way un- der his weight. This he did several times until benumbed with cold; and unable to draw himself up, or even to hold on longer, he caught hold of the pole with his teeth. When I got back from our camp with a rope, and threw it out to him, he was too far gone to take hold of it, so I determined to save him at all hazards. I crawled out, lying flat on my face, and moving as cautiously as possible. Not a word was said as I slowly moved forward, nearer, nearer, till at last I laid my hand in his. It was as cold as the ice on which I lay. Poor Charley was frozen to death ! Fastening the rope around him under the arm-pils, I cau- tiously and successfully made my way back, and we pulled him ashore with his teeth still fastened on the pole. We had a sad time getting poor Charley back to the still water," was the conclusion of the guide's short story of Charley's Pond. Some affirm that it was named after a man, who, on being drafted in the late war, fled to this wild solitude, thus practically placing himself beyond the reach of the law. Here, in a secluded spot, curtained with a dense thicket, he erected a rude hut (the ruins of which we have seen) and occupied it for several years, in self-imposed banishment from the world. (This section is within the limits of Ne-ha-sa-ne Park ) Pass over about two-thirds the length of the pond, land r. E., jus.t off those islands, and carry to Smith's Inlet (out- Il8 THE ADIRONDACKS. let of the sheet), }£ m. Portage fair, but blind at com- mencement. The inlet is very shallow and narrow for the first 40 or 50 r., and boats must be towed. Thence to Lit- tle Tupper Lake, 3 m. it is passable boating. A notable spring-hole is located in this stream, about 1 m. above the lake on S. side, — a stake and a large pine log indicating the spot. Emerging from this stream, Little Tupper like a beautiful vision, lies before us. 3. Pass up the S. E. Inlet, really Beaver River, entering Eldridge Bay. It is an extremely crooked stream, with its navigation considerably obstructed by "flood-jams." Avoid the branch, entering 1. several miles up. 4^ m. above the lake, where the river divides, take the 1. hand stream ; r. branch leads into Deer, Little Rock, West and Shingle Shanty Ponds. Trout congregate at these forks. This branch, (Shingle Shanty Creek,) is larger than the main stream, and affords good navigation for 2 m. up. From time immemorial it has furnished trout- fishing of unsur- passed excellence. Deer also abound here. From the forks, boats are generally towed or poled y 2 or Y^ m. to the portage (r.) of 30 rods. Bearing S. E., pass over Mud or Lily-pad Pond (5^ x J^), which is very irreg- ular in shape — really two sheets, connected by a short strait. The lower body is mostly covered with lily-pads, furnishing perfect feeding ground for deer. A wolf was killed here, just before the writer first visited it. Scenery generally very gloomy. Both salmon and speckled trout abound at mouth of inlet, entering r. S. E. Pass up this stream, 6 or 8 r. to the fair carry 1., of }i m. along the rapids. Camp at farther end. Follow stream again % m., dragging boats at commence- ment, to Little Salmon L. {% x 5^) — very pretty and se- cluded and presenting a scene of perfect wildness and weird loneliness.* Cross its S. E. portion and take inlet r. — stream straight and pleasant. Numerous tamarack trees serve to " A short distance B. of Lily-pad P. and Little Salmon L. are two nameless ponds. A carry leads from Little Salmon L. to Rock P., 2 m. N. E. brandreth's lake. 119 render the otherwise dismal swamp attractive. Proceed \i/ 2 m , towing boat considerably ; carry 1., }( m. (blind) ; take the stream again — still shallow and narrow — ^ m. ; follow main channel ; as branches enter r. and 1. Forest here, clean and beautiful — ground carpeted with moss and furrowed by paths of wild animals; carry 1. Yi m.; boating again 20 r.; carry over ridge 2 or 3 r. to Salmon or Jo- sephine Lake (2^ x 1). This handsome body of water is one of the chief sources of the Beaver, and is en- compassed by mountains of moderate height, sloping gracefully to the shores. Camp on W. side. Salmon trout are very abundant here and of large size ; some weighing 30 lbs.. Fish for them by the buoys. Lonesome P. lies 1 or 2 m. N. E. Carry from a point near outlet of Salmon L., up which our route to this lake lies, to Rock Pond, 1 ]4 m. N. This is the noted "Murray Carry" — rough, swampy, and difficult. Cross the romantic waters of Rock Pond (2 m.), with its golden beach, rock guarded shores, and pine- clad island. Thence carry y& m. from N. extremity around the falls and rapids in its outlet. Here the river plunges down through a wild ravine. Thence follow stream 3 m. to Little Tupper Lake. Route from Lake Lila to Beach's or Brandreth's Lake. To Salmon Lake the route is identical with that just given. Pass to the head of this lake, and up the deep and pleasant inlet bordered by the handsome tamarack, y 2 m.; carry r. i}4 m. For a third of the way numerous prostrate trees obstruct the path; middle portion smooth but swampy ; remainder of portage a perfect forest road, merg- ing into the Carthage road about yi m. W. of the Brand- reth "Summer Shooting Box," situated at the head of Beach's, or more properly, Brandreth's Lake.* S&~ * Brandreths' villa, consisting of 5 or 6 substantial buildings admirably fitted up with a view to all tbe requirements of woodland life, is delightf ully located on a slight eminence gently sloping to a pleasant bay margined by an extended reach of snowy sand, and commanding an extensive view of the lake and surrounding country. |y This tylran camp and the grounds are. no longer open to the public, as the privilege, was abused. Sportsmen will not trespass upon this presei-oe, which embraces all of township 39 — some. 24,000 acres. We wish to tender our thanks for the right royal hospitality once received here from the courteous proprietors. J2C- THE ADIRONDACK^. The many charms presented by this sheet, elicit the ad- miration of all its beholders. Gentle elevations, alternat- ing with abrupt acclivities, completely encircle it. Bald Rock or Big Bluff rises in rugged prominence from the S. E. shore, its precipitous, hoary sides .glistening in the sun- light like the snowy locks of a mythical giant of fabulous times. West Mt., lifting its forest-clad heights towards the ■eastern sky, is revealed in the shadowy distance. Several islands and islets picturesquely grace the bosom of the lake, whose deep and crystalline waters are hardly surpassed in purity. Its size is generally over-estimated, it being only 21/^ m. long by % m. in breadth, according to actual sur- vey; although if its two arms were included, its length would receive an additional mile. It is well supplied with fish ; salmon trout being caught with good success near Bear Point, around which the W. arm curves, and in the N. arm of the lake ; and speckled trout in the vicinity of Rock Island. We will proceed to note the other attractions that ■combine to render this comely lake one of the most desira- ble centers for sporting purposes in the Wilderness. Sev- eral lakelets — admirable fishing and hunting localities — are easily accessible from "Brandreths' villa." East Pond {% x %), a charming water, is reached by following the road, ij^ m. S. E., and then the path diverg- ing 1. 1 20 rods, or by boating down the lake about ^ m., landing on E. shore and proceeding thence by path per- haps % m. E. To reach Trout or Little Rock Pond (j^ x }{), follow the path that leads from the road a few rods E. of the clearing, J^ m. N. To visit West Pond {1% x yi), (formerly called Middle Lake) row up the W. arm of the lake y 2 m., land r. and pass over the good portage ^ m. N. From the W. extremity of this pond, a trail leads 2}4 m. N. W. to Thayer's Lake; and another leads directly W. i J /i m. to Deer Pond; and still another to Shingle Shanty L., 1 y 2 m. S. W. Little Deer P. lies S. of and flows into West Pond. (See p. 112.) South Pond (5^ x ^) is reached by a good carry of 13^ m. W., starting from a point on W. shore, nearly opposite and just above Rock Island, near foot of lake. By travers- ing this sheet and carrying thence ^ m. W., the 2 Sister CASTORLAND. 121 Ponds, twin gems of the wilderness, are visited. These 3 bodies of water are snugly embowered in the green depths of the forest, and being seldom approached by man, are the common abiding places of deer and trout. They are sources of Moose R , through Big Moose Lake, (p. 73.) ; all the others just noticed empty into Beaver River. The inlet and outlet of Brandreth's L , enter and out- pour very close together ; the latter paying tribute to Forked Lake, thus rendering Brandreth's Lake one of the fountain heads of Raquette River. The Carthage road skirts the margin of the lake, and is passable for wagons from the head, through to Crown Point. The distance to Raquette Lake (North Bay) is 4 m.; thence to Forked Lake Club House, 3 m. Near here (at Raquette Lake Landing) parties re-embark for other points. From Lowville the Oswegatchie Ponds are reached by the following route, over comparatively good roads: Smith's Landing, 2 m.; Dayanville, 3 m.; Croghan,* on Beaver R, 5 m.; Belfort, on Beaver R , 4 m ; thence through the for- est to Long Pond, (Oswegatchie Lake,) 8 m. Total, 22 m. The waters in this vicinity are well stocked with trout early in the season, and deer are usually quite plentiful. Daily stage from Lowville to Croghan, (10 m., fare 50 cts.) where private conveyances are taken for the remainder of the journey, (12 m.). (See Route Eleventh?) Parties should take supplies from Lowville, although there are hotels at all of the villages named. The route intersects the Carthage road at Belfort. Eleventh : — From Castorland — a mere hamlet — to Naumburg, ij^ m.; Beaver Falls, 23^ m.; Croghan, 3 m.; Belfort, 4 m.; Oswegatchie Lake, 8 m. Total, 19 m. Stage daily to Croghan ; fare, 50 cts. Conveyances are obtained of Bent at Castorland, and of Miller or Gardner at Cro- ghan. The road enters the forest about 2 m. from Belfort, and is in good condition for most of the way. * There is a large French Jesuit church at Croghan. 122 THE ADIRONDACKS. CASTORLAND. — A ROMANTIC SETTLEMENT IN THE GREAT FOREST. On the 31st of August, 1792, at the moment when Danton and his blood-thirsty colleagues were filling Paris with dire dismay, and rioting in massacres of unparalleled atrocity, a contract was formed in that city between William Constable, of New York, and an association of French capitalists, for the sale of six hundred and thirty thousand acres of land situated east and north of Black R., in the present counties of Lewis and Jefferson. This was done on the part of the purchasers, with the design not only of making what seemed a judicious investment, but of securing an asylum, for such as might desire to take up their residence in a country which, although a dense wilderness, was safe and desirable in comparison with France, at that period of her history. The scheme was some months in maturing, but in 1793 was fully planned. The tract was to be named "Castorland," (the Indian Couch-sach-ra-ge signifying the Land of Beavers,) and was to be surveyed into 12,000 farms of fifty acres each. Two cities were to be laid out ; one to be christened "Basle," near the mouth of Black R. (Dexter), and the other "Castorville," at the lower falls on Beaver R., now known as " Beaver- ton."* Each city was to embrace 12,000 lots, and ample reservations were made for colleges, hospitals, and other public institutions. The company was to consist of 6,000 associates, each of whom was to receive a farm of fifty acres, and another farm and lot in each city at the end of twenty-one years, when the whole would have been enhanced in value by their improvements They drew up a constitution and a code, fully defining the rights of property and rules of management, and everything was to be directed by a council in Paris. In short, the Golden Age was to be renewed in this forest Arcadia, which lay in the same latitude as the vineyard, region of France, and the sunny climes of Italy ; and one need only to secure a share in the company (800 livres or $148.80), emigrate to their woodland domain, and become the possessor of wealth, peace and rural felicity. Rosy descriptions of the country and its resources were published, and a map was prepared in which the Black R. was shown as meandering among cities and villages like the Seine, in France. In the fall of 1793, Simon Des Jardins, formerly a chamberlain of Louis XVI. — a gentleman in middle life, of fine talent and education, — and Pierre Pharoux — a young architect and engineer of brilliant scien- tific attainments and almost spotless purity of character, — as commis- sioners of the company, came over to this "Land of Promise" to begin surveys and open roads for settlements. They were accompanied by Mark Isambert Brunei, a young refugee from the French Revolution, and emphatically a man of science, whose distinguished talents after- * Small steamers have ascended Beaver R. (which enters Black R. near Castorland Station) 4 in , and to a point within % m. or Beavevton. the site of ancient Castorville. THE OSWEGATCHIE PONDS. 123 wards placed him in a most eminent position in England, the great tun- nel under the Thames being one of the triumphs of his skill.* They found their way by water to Oswego, then a British garrison without one other inhabitant, and across the lake to the mouth of the Black R., which they followed many miles. In 1794, they opened a road from old Fort Schuyler (now Utica) by way of the celebrated Baron Steuben's plaoe, in the present town of Steuben, and began set- tlement on the east side of Black R., just below the High Falls (Lyon's Falls). In 1795 they began improvements at the Long Falls (Carthage), and in September of that year, Pharoux — in attempting to navigate the river with a raft — was carried over the falls and drowned, in the present city of Watertown. This melancholy incident cast a gloom over the entire community. It was but the commencement of a series of mis- fortunes that one after another befell the ill-fated colonists, until the end was reached. The surveys were made according to the plans; and roads laid down in maps in Paris, without the slightest knowledge of the surface, were cut out but not bridged ; and some were so rugged they never could have been traveled. The tract proved to be only a third as large as had been estimated. The settlers found the rigors of our northern winters too severe for their endurance. Their funds finally were exhausted ; sick- ness from exposure and privations destroyed some, and accumulated miseries disheartened others, and caused an evil report to be spread among those intending to emigrate. In short, the gilded domes and blooming gardens of the Happy Land, vanished like the baseless fabric of a dream, on first contact with the realities; and only one of the un- happy colonists grew old and died near the scenes of their terrible hard- ships and disappointments. The "Oswegatchie Ponds,'' fountain-heads of the West Branch of Oswegatchie River, form an interesting group of waters. Making Oswegatchie Lake, formerly known as Long or Slim Pond, (1% x }4) the, center, within a radius of s or 6 m. are 25 or 30 handsome little lakes. The fol- lowing may be reached by good paths and roads leading from Bald Mt. House, situated at the N. end of that sheet. Rock P. (}/k x \) lies 40 r. N. and has some picturesque features. Its outlet, Oswegatchie R., offers difficult navi- gation. Crossing the eastern portion of Rock P. {% m.), and passing 5 or 8 rods up a canal-like strait, just wide enough to allow the passage of a boat, we enter Trout L. (}/\ x %)• * Among the refugees from France driven to this country In 1T9T, were the Duke of Orleans, (afterward Louis Pliiliippe, king of tlie French) and his brothers, Monpensier and Beaujolais. Tnese illustrious exiles, pilgrims in tlie Adirondack forests, explored a large portion of that region, including Castorland.— [Hougli.) 124 THE ADIRONDACK^. This is very romantic and attractive, and a popular resort of those in search of the speckled beauties of large size. Its principal inlet is Trout L. Creek, and its outlet we have just navigated. Deer P. {% x %) is ^ m. N. of Trout L. by an easy path. It is fringed with beautiful pines, and its shallow waters are well paved with lily-pads, in the midst of which, sparkle like silver a thousand snowy flowers, delighting every eye. These offer irresistible attractions to its name- sake. In one direction a pleasant beaver meadow stretches many rods away. It is a quiet and lovely spot. From Deer P. by following a trail through the tangled woods for about i% m. (3 m. from the hotel) we will find, in Big Creek, several cascades of most exquisite loveliness. Desert P. (Y x }i) is 2^ m. E. of Deer P. It is appro- priately named, as it has marshy shores and dismal sur»- roundings. Its shallow water is said to be poisonous, owing to the numerous noxious, aquatic weeds or plants that defile its depths. But it is "immense" for deer. Wolf P. {% x Ye) excellent for trout, is 2 m. N. E. of Desert P. and flows into Middle Branch. Massepia P. {% x }i) is 2j^ m. E. of Desert P., and 1 Y 2 m. S. E. of Wolf Pond. Buck L. (\ x }£) is 3 m. E. of S. of Massepia Pond. These waters are all reached via "Ardrson's Trail". Principal Route to Middle Branch, Rock and Sand Lakes, etc. From Bald Mt. House, it is li m - E. by good road to Ulrich's Mills. Thence it is 3 J^ m. S. E. by trail to Jake's P. { l A x yi), (or by boat up Oswegatchie R. 2 m. and thence trail 1^ m.); passing en route a remarkable natural rock camp. This pretty sheet was named from a famous woodsman. "Uncle Bill" Lawrence, a noted hunter, has near its shores his solitary abode. "Uncle Bill's Slide" is a few rods distant. From Jake's P. the trail leads 2^ m. E. to Tide L. with its delicious spring, and phenomenal rising and falling waters. Thence, J4 m. N. E. to Hog P.; J4 m. N. E. to Buck L.; ~Y m. E. to the famed Middle Branch* of the Os- MIDDLE BRANCH SECTION, 125 wegatchie; 3%^ m. N. E. to Sand and Rock Lakes. Total, 11% m. from Bald Mt. House. Middle Branch, though difficult to reach, is a favorite re- sort of the angler, owing to its unfailing supply of trout. Near Jake's P. (N. E.) is Otter P. N. of that a short distance, is 5 Acre P. N. E. of Otter P., perhaps 1 m., is Turtle or Little P. Almost touching Tide L. (W.) is Sunk P. N. E. of Buck L., about 1 m., is Bassett L. or Jump- ing-Troiit P. From Middle Branch to Rock and Sand Lakes, the trail passes Fawn and Grass Ponds. Grigg's L. {% x 1^), (noted for trout) lies 3^ m. S. E. of Jake's P.; the trail diverging r. from the route to Middle Branch, 1^ or 2 m. E. of Jake's P. at a point called the "Junction". The trail from the "Junction" to Middle Branch, follows the old "Emilyville Road". In order to induce settlement, an act was passed by the Legislature in 1814, authorizing a road to be constructed through the dense woods from Turin to Emilyville, at the S. end of the town of Pierrepont. Years afterward this road was opened from Independence River to the "Old Military Road", joining the latter at the "Albany Bridge", E. Branch of Oswegatchie R. It extended about 50 m., and touched Beaver Lake at Number Four. (See pp. 98, n 2.) The experiment, however, proved a failure, as this lone highway was never much trav- eled, and soon fell into total disuse. Now thrifty second-growth trees and occasional patches of corduroy obscurely mark its course. Green L. is % m. E. of Grigg's L.; and thence it is 1 m. E. to Loon Hollow L.; whence a trail, passing near Sun- shine L., leads to Bear or Cold L. 1^ m. S. E. (See p. 101.) The Moshier P's (p. 100) lie 1^ m. S. of Grigg's L. (by trail). Flat Rock P. is a short distance S. of Loon- Hollow L. Round P. (% x y 2 ) communicates with Oswegatchie L. on the W. It is really a bay of the main sheet. The Twin P's., Upper and Lower (}4 x % each) are 2 % m. N. W. of Bald Mt. House, by road. Lane's P. (% x %) a pretty lakelet, is % m. further N. W. Mud P. (1 x $4) is 2 m. S. W. of Bald Mt. House, by main road. Its name indicates its condition. I 2 6 THE ADIRONDACKS. The 3 Clear P's, a chain of silver links, are 2j^ m. W. and have no visible inlets or outlet. Bullhead P. (]i x y&) is */ 2 m. W. of Mud Pond. Sand L. is yA m. S. W. of the "Grant Place", at S. end of Oswegatchie Lake. (See p. 98.) The Oswegatchie section, owing to its fine sporting, is fast becoming a popular resort. Bald Mt. House, with its numerous little rustic cottages, is worthy of the highest commendation. It is charmingly situated on elevated ground, bordered by evergreens and other trees, and affords a complete view of Oswegatchie L. and the environing forest. Double verandas offer enjoya- ble shade, prospects and promenades. The table is excel- lent ; and the management generally, is characterized by admirable energy and enterprise. A well of remarkably cold water on the premises, is an important feature. The invalid, sportsman or pleasure seeker, will find this summer retreat eminently calculated to satisfy every reasonable re- quirement and at very low rates. Boats free to guests. The proprietor will meet parties at Castorland or Croghan, and convey them to his place at reasonable prices. Ad- dress Z. Bigness, Oswegatchie Lake, Lewis Co., N. Y. To ascend Bald Mt., cross Rock P. to N. shore ; thence follow path, which soon merges into a lumber-road leading 2 m. N. to Ardison's bark-peeler's camp, at foot of the mountain. The view commanded by the summit, embrac- ing an interminable forest, with but little lake-scenery, does not sufficiently repay us for the scramble we have en- joyed (?). Twelfth : — Carthage is finely situated upon Black River, (third in magnitude in this State,) whose immense water power is here utilized extensively in the manufacture of iron, lumber, leather, etc. It is a handsome village; steadily increasing in size and business, notwithstanding the several calamities it has suffered through extensive fires. Great enterprise is a marked characteristic of the place. From here to Lyon's Falls (42^ m.) there is un- interrupted navigation for small steamers. This most beau- tiful stream in this extended reach, offers superior and Iter CARTHAGE. 1 27 delightful opportunities to boating parties. But immedi- ately below the village and for several miles, numerous rapids and falls render safe boating impossible. Carthage was formerly called Long Falls, and was founded in 1795 by the Castorlanders. Two excellent hotels, the "Elmhirst" and the "Levis", furnish prime accommodations to travelers. Carthage is the S; W. terminus of the Carthage & Adi- rondack R. R., connecting here with the Utica division of the R. W. & O. R. R. It is also the W. terminus of the "Old State Road" opened through the Wilderness to Crown Point in 1841-47. The magnitude of this "forest waste" becomes manifest when the length of this road is taken into consideration. From a point about 20 m. E. of this place, to Schroon River ("Roots"), 95 m., with the excep- tion of the Number Four, Long Lake, Newcomb and sev- eral minor clearings, the route lies through a wilderness not yet invaded by civilization, if we except the lumber- men. This indicates also the sterility of the soil. Distances from Carthage to Crown Point. MILES. Carthage to Belfort, 15 Thence to Number Four, 9 " Stillwater, II " " South Branch, 7ti " " Brandreth's Lake, 9V2 " " Raquette Lake, (North Bay) 6 " Long Lake Village, i7 3 / " Newcomb, 13 " Tahawus, (Lower Iron Works) - 1% " Schroon River, ("Roots") - 19 " " Crown Point, - 19 Total, - - - - 134 Portions of this road are not now traveled by wagons, viz.: Belfort to Number Four (it is passable 2 or 3 m. E. of Bel- fort), and from Little Rapids road (branching 1. 2 m. E. of South Branch) to Brandreth's Lake. In entering the woods from Carthage, parties may choose either of two general routes ; one by way of Belfort (15 m.) 128 THE ADIRONDACKS. and thence to the Oswegatchie Ponds 8 m., or to Sand and Crooked Lakes— following the Oswegatchie road from Belfort s m., thence a path 5 m. to the former, whence it is 1% m. S. to Crooked L. (See p. 98.) The other leading to Harrisville, 20 m distant, passing through the village of Natural Bridge, 9 m. The road from Carthage to Harris- ville is in good condition and affords a pleasant ride. But the route almost invariably followed, is that of the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. By this line, the dis- tances from point to point are as follows : Carthage to Natural Bridge, 10 m ; Bonaparte Lake Station, 7 m.; Harrisville, 3% n» ; Jayville, 8*4 m.; Oswegatchie, g}4 m.; Benson Mines, present terminus of R. R., 4lm. Total from Carthage about 43 miles. Natural Bridge is a pleasant little place situated on Indian R. (Ind., O-je-quack, "Nut River"), which here runs under the ground in two different places, and emerges a few rods below, forming a natural bridge of white lime- stone 6 ft. above the water and 15 ft. wide; a curiosity of considerable interest. This gave the hamlet its name ; but a romantic bit of history connected with this locality gave it its chief celebrity. We learn from Hough's admirable writings that in 1800, James Don- atien Le Ray, Compte de Chaumont of France, while on ■» visit to America, joined his friend, Gouverneur Morris in the purchase of a vast tract of land lying in Franklin, St. Lawrence, Jefferson and Lewis Counties, N. Y. In 1808 he erected an elegant chateau at Le Rayville, which he occupied for many years. Here he dispensed hospitality with a lavish hand to distinguished guests from Europe; many of whom were of noble, some even of royal blood. In 1815, when visiting his estate in Tourraine, France, he heard of Joseph Bonaparte's arrival at Blois, in his flight before the allied forces. Thither he hastened to lend the fugitive king his respects and sympathy, and was invited by the prince to dine with him. Upon this occasion, Bonaparte suddenly remarked to the Count : ''Well, I remember you spoke to me formerly of your great possessions in the United States. If you have them still, I should like very much to take some of your land in exchange for a part of that silver I have there in those wagons, which may be pillaged at any moment. Take four or five hundred thousand francs, and give me the equivalent in land." Le Ray replied: "It is impossible to make a bargain where one party alone knows what he is about." •'Oh," said the prince, ' I know you well, and I rely more on your word than my own judgment." Finally it was arranged that JOSEPH BONAPARTE. 120. Le Ray should receive 500,000 francs for 156,260 acres (less 32,260 acres owned by settlers) and payment was secured by a certain amount of silver, diamonds and real estate, valued at $120,000. Joseph Bonaparte was born in Corsica in 1768. He shared the for- tunes of his eminent brother, and was of great service to him in a diplo- matic capacity, as he was distinguished for his genius in statecraft. His fine figure, handsome face, elegant manners, courtly and commanding presence, combined to render him an object of admiration to all. He was the elder and favorite brother of the great Napoleon ; indeed, the only one whom he really loved. The record he made as a man and a mon- arch, was truly unblemished. His brief reign on the throne of Naples, was a succession of benefits to a people who had been long degraded by oppressive despotism From 1808 to 1813 he wore the crown of Spain, and but for the intervention of the British, and the desolations of war, would have opened a happy path for that unfortunate kingdom. (Cot- tage Cycl.o.) He rejoined Napoleon in Paris during the Hundred Days, and after the battle of Waterloo, in their last interview, gener- ously offered to surrender to the fallen Emperor his own means of escape, by taking advantage of their great resemblance to each other, in form and features, and remaining in his place. Napoleon, in deep emo- tion, rejected this noble offer, replying : " I will not allow you to expose yourself to dangers which belong to my destiny alone." But he agreed to meet him in the United States, as he had serious thoughts of locating on those wild lands and uniting with Joseph in founding vast manufacturing establishments in the Black River valley, which should surpass any interests of this kind in the world. How different might have been his fate, had he carried this commendable plan into execution. This arrangement having been made, Joseph sailed for America, in 1815, under the assumed named of Compte de Survilliers. He pur- chased a mansion in Philadelphia, and about a dozen contiguous farms on Delaware River, hear Bordentown, N. J. (Point Breeze) for the site and grounds of a country-seat. This land, with very elaborate embel- lishments, became a magnificent park. Here he erected a spacious edifice that was a perfect copy of an Italian palace. This was enriched by his vast collection of busts, statues, paintings, precious stones, etc., which he had gathered in Spain, Italy and France. On this superb estate he expended a million of dollars. This stately structure was de- stroyed by fire in 1820, but the valuable contents were saved. It was subsequently replaced by a building much less ostentatious. During his sojourn in this country Joseph endeared himself to Ameri- cans by his benevolence, affability and accomplishments, and was elect- ed to many philanthropic and learned institutions. (Amer. Cyclo.) While residing on the Delaware, he received a proposition which surprised as much as it must have affected him. He was visited by a Mexican delegation, sent by that government to offer him the crown of Mexico. He entertained them royally for several days, and then gave them his answer in the following words: "I have already worn two crowns ; I would not take a step to wear a third. Nothing can gratify me more than to see men who would not recognize my authority when I was at Madrid, now come to seek me in exile; but I do' not think that the 130 THE ADIRONDACK?. throne you wish to raise again can make you happy. Every day I pass in this hospitable land, proves more clearly to me the excellence of re- publican institutions in America. Keep them, as a precion- ^.tt from Heaven; settle your internal commotions; follow the example of the United States; and seek among your fellow citizens a man more capable than I am of acting the great part of Washington." {Napoleon Dynasty.) He made the village of Natural Bridge his residence for two sum- mers, and the large house he built and occupied — containing bullet- proof sleeping rooms — is still standing. As hunting was the favorite pastime of the prince, one of the several towns adjacent embraced by his purchase, was named by his request, Diana, after the goddess of the chase. About 31^ m. this side of Hanisville, and 17 m. beyond Carthage, the route passes near and in sight of Lake Bonaparte, (a wagon road ex- tending to its margin Y% m.) which is surpassed in beauty by few of the Wilderness waters. It is 5 m. in length, and averages 2 m. in width, encircles several wild, rocky islands, and is environed by bold precipit- ous shores. Only three small clearings have been made on its borders, and with these exceptions it is surrounded by a magnificent and entirely primitive forest, in which the evergreen largely predominates. The water of this renowned lake is deep, clear and pure, and contains black bass, perch, white fish, ciscoes, bullheads and the large salmon trout. Brook, or speckled trout, are taken in the several inlets. The islands (Round, Rock and Birch) and the shores afford many good camping sites, near which are fine springs and bathing places of unsur- passed excellence. Other lakes and ponds in the immediate vicinity (yi to 2 m. from it) form a beaded circle around this liquid beryl spark- ling in their midst. These include Indian L. (S. W.); Mud L. (^ m. N. W.); Loon and Duck Ps. (N.); Green L. (% m. N.— wild, secluded and romantic, and the home of numerous mountain trout); Bullhead P. (X ">• S. E ); Dobesson's P. (1 m.); and Nutmeg. P. (2 m.). Deer yet have their abiding places near all these pleasant sheets and the number killed during the hunting season is considerable. It need not be said that Lake Bonaparte was named in honor of its kingly possessor, who in 18 18 erected a rustic lodge upon the most beautiful and commanding site its banks afforded, for the use of himself and companions while out on sporting excursions. Upon this lake and Black River he placed a six-oared gondola decorated with gorgeous trappings, which plowed those waters majestically; and attended by a gay suite of favorites, (attired in the richest apparel ; green velvet with golden trimmings predominating) many of whom had shared his sunny fortunes in royal courts, his boating excursions and other rural pastimes were replete with regal magnificence. He sometimes traveled from his mansion in New Jersey to his forest- home in a gilded coach drawn by six horses; and upon one occasion when returning from his wilderness-estate, the cortege halted at a chosen spot, between Natural Bridge and Evans' Mills, partook of a sumptuous feast, embracing every delicacy that the country afforded, prepared with great care, and served on golden dishes, with royal cere- monies. > 7s m CD O z > ■D > 70 70 O 3 H I O 70 O c z a ANNALS OF LAKE BONAPARTE. 131 Liberal in ihe use of money, singularly suave and winning in his man- ners, and sociable with all who were brought in business relations with him, he was of course very popular among our citizens ; and his annual return was awaited with interest, and remembered with satisfaction. " The hunter loved his pleasant smile, The backwoodsman his quiet speech ; And the Usher's cares would he beguile With ever kindly deeds for each." After twenty years of ownership, however, (in 1835) he sold his forest possessions to John La Farge, a wealthy merchant of New York, for $80,000, and was seen there no more. The villa which he had con- structed in 1817 on the outlet, 1% m. below the lake, (where the almost deserted little mining village of Alpine now stands) for the purpose of making this a summer residence, soon went to decay ; and the hunting lodge on the shore was subsequently burned. Bonaparte finally left America in 1839; n ' s departure regretted by all who knew him ; and died in Florence, Italy, July 28th, 1844. This eccentric episode in the life of that remarkable man has been celebrated in song by the Lewis County poet, Hon. Caleb Lyon. newell's COON-SKIN CAP. Mr. Wm. Nunn, of Harrisville, N. Y., contributes the following anecdote of Joseph Bonaparte: — "About the year 1837, I heard Horace Newell, a noted hunter resid- ing in the town of Diana, relate his hunting experience with the ex-king. The latter was then occupying his abode at what is now called the ' Bonaparte Clearing', near Alpine. He sent for Newell to come and hunt for him on a certain day. While Newell was making preparations to start, his wife, being more refined, urged him to dress up, in order to appear respectably before a king ; and to take off his cap when he en- tered his presence. Newell told her in reply, that he was a Massachu- setts Yankee and that his people never took off their hats even to a king. In due time, with gun and dog, he reached the appointed place, and was met at the door by a servant who politely requested him to name the nature of his business. The hunter did so. Then the servant re- tired and Bonaparte immediately appeared. The grand military cap he wore came off with a bow and he warmly shook the hand of the forester. 'Tell ye what, boys,' said Newell, 'didn't my coon-skin cap come off mighty quick then ? Good manners, boys, even from a New Englan' Yankee, called for it. The thought of sich a man takin' off his cap to a coon-skin larnt me a lesson that I will never forgit. Bonaparte had five or six slick lookin' chaps with 'im, all trimmed up with gold and silver; but they had the raal grit in 'em. We hunted and fished four days, and had the most amazin' time I ever hearn tell on. Every one killed a deer and ketched lots o' trout ; and we come purty nigh havin' a scrim- mage with an all-fired big painter, that riled us up consider'ble with his tarnal hootin' and yellin'; and the pesky varmint was sorter sassy- like with his leetle pranks when we happened to run agin 'im and skeered 'im out. For my sarvices each man gin me a present, but the 132 THE ADIRONDACKS. king the biggest one ; and I'm blamed if I didn't go hum with $40 in gold in my pocket.' This occurred about 1818." ******* * There is probably no more romantic, picturesque or conspicuous figure connected with the chronicles of Lake Bonaparte than Col. Zeb- ulon H. Benton. The accompanying engraving faithfully represents his appearance in daily life. He invariably dresses with the nicest regard to minute particulars, in peaked felt hat, long black coat and ruffled shirt— every article faultlessly neat. With his fresh ruddy complexion, clean-shaven face, rich growth of snow-white hair, graceful carriage, and form almost as lithe and perfect, at his ripe age of 82, as if in the flower of youth and strength, he seems the embodiment of a gentleman of the old regime. Col. Benton was born in Apulia, N. Y., Jan. 27, 1811 ; and the de- tails of his checkered life would fill a book, We can only briefly allude to the following facts: He was a cousin of Thomas Hart Benton, the great Missouri statesman, and consequently a kinsman of his daughter, Jessie Benton Fremont, the noted wife of the famous "Pathfinder"- In the War of the Rebellion, he received an appointment on the stafT. of Gen. Fremont ; but before he could arrange to take the position, that personage was superseded. He was also a relative of the eminent nov- elist, James Fenimore Cooper. From his very boyhood he has led an extremely active life ; and before he was fairly out of his teens, he was entrusted, by his employers, with commissions of the utmost import- ance, which he brought to successful consummation. He has been en- gaged from time to time in great enterprises, especially those of land, mining and rail-roading. The capital invested in these, sometimes equaled or exceeded a million of dollars. His ventures, often gigantic, were not confined to Lewis and St. Lawrence Counties, but extended into the Canadas, to the Gulf of Mexico, and even into South America. The mines at Rossie, Clifton, Jayville and Alpine (the two latter still owned by him) are examples of these operations. We are convinced that the Carthage & Adirondack Railway owes its existence to Col. Benton and to Hon. Joseph Pahud, of Harrisville, N. Y., as they were unceas- ing in their efforts to establish that line to Jayville Mines. From the Carthage Republican, Philadelphia Press, and other relia- ble sources, we have gleaned the following information : — Soon after the arrival of Joseph Bonaparte in this country, he met and loved a beautiful Quakeress, by the name of Annette Savage, a member of a family of high respectability, residing in Philadelphia, descendants of the celebrated Indian princess, Pocahontas.* They were subsequently married in private by u justice-of-the-peace in that city. Two daughters were the fruit of this union, one of whom died in in- fancy. The other was christened Charlotte C. Soon after arriving at maturity, she became the wife of Col. Benton. Their marriage resulted in seven children. The five surviving bear the appropriate names of * savage's Station, Va., brought into prominence by the late war, was named In honor of this family. COL. ZEBULON H. BENTON. COL. ZEBULON H. BENTON. 133 Josephine Charlotte, Zenaide Bonaparte, Louis Joseph, Zebulon Napo- leon and Thomas Hart. Mrs. Benton, having obtained a letter of introduction from Gen. Grant (then President) to Hon. Elihu B. Washburn, U. S. Minister to France, and one also from Dr. J. De Haven White, the eminent Phila- delphia dentist, to his former pupil, Dr. Evans, the dental surgeon of Louis Napoleon, repaired to Paris in 1869. She obtained audience with the Emperor, and received immediate recognition as the daughter of Joseph Bonaparte ; and by his imperial will, and the laws of France, the union of her parents was confirmed and her legitimacy established.* Honored by an invitation to attend the French court, she and two of her children were there kindly and cordially entertained by the Em- peror and Empress, who presented her with valuable souvenirs upon this occasion. Napoleon often expressed great regret that he did not know his cousin earlier, so that he might the sooner have bestowed upon her children the places to which, by right of birth, they were en- titled. He presented her with her father's palace; but this was lost through the downfall of the empire and that ill-fated ioyal family. Mrs. Benton attended Napoleon during his imprisonment in Germany, and a short time afterward (1871) returned to America. She was a woman of remarkable beauty and talent, and of most lovely characteristics. Her eyes were large, dark and lustrous, and like the Colonel's, never dimmed by age. Receiving a fine education, in Europe and in this country, she early developed great versatility in writing. Many brilliant articles in various papers and magazines were the productions of her pen, and she was the author of a book of rare merit, entitled, "France and her Peo- ple." She died Dec. 25, 1890, at Richfield Springs. Col. Benton becoming largely interested in coal and other specula- tions in Philadelphia, Pa., located in that city in 1852, where his family still resides But he frequently visits Alpine ("Alpina" is a Corruption of this word), Lake Bonaparte, Jayville Mines, and many distant points, attending to his various interests, as his wonderful activity is still un- abated. Note. — Since the article on Col. Benton was placed in the printer's hands, the sad intelligence has reached us of his sudden decease, which occurred May 16, 1893. The Lake Bonaparte House, a large and imposing struct- ure, picturesquely situated on the site of the old Campbell place, so well known to "old timers", at the head of the historic sheet from which it was named, replaces the one destroyed by fire in the winter of 1892. * la this first Interview with the emperor, Mrs. Benton attempted to show her letters ; but he prevented her with the remark : "No, my cousin ; this is unnecessary, as I see my uncle Joseph in your lace. Why did you not come sooner? What a pity." As it the shadow ol the approaching war were in his thoughts. 12 134 THE ADIRONDACKS. The main building stands 25 or 30 feet higher than the surface of the lake, and its triple verandas offer a prome- nade of over 30 rods, and insure absolute coolness in the hottest weather, while pretty groves of butternut and cedar trees fringe the sloping grounds, lending ample shade. The rooms are tidy, airy and well equipped. The dining-room, with its large open fireplace, is exceedingly pleasant, the table unexceptional, and a spring of remarkable size sup- plies the house with delicious drinking water. On the bold eminence 200 feet W. of the hotel the enterprising proprie- tors have erected a fine annex for the comfort and conven- ience of their patrons. This contains a spacious parlor furnished with a piano, lounges and easy chairs. From the broad piazzas, completely encircling this building, a charm- ing view of the forest- encompassed lake is enjoyed ; the lofty plateau, 200 feet above the water, on which was situ- ated the hunting-seat of Joseph Bonaparte, being included in the scene spread before us. A lawn tennis court, cro- quet grounds and billiard parlor offer a variety of amuse- ments to visitors. At the landing, 15 rods from the hotel! a large dancing-hall, anchored to huge boulders and pro- jecting over the water, accommodates 75 couples, and affords a cool retreat on hot days. Under this is moored a large fleet of new, safe and commodious row-boats, designed for the use of guests. Neat little sailing yachts are also provided for their pleasure. A large and safe steam-launch makes frequent excursions around the lake for the low fare of 25 cents. Lake Bonaparte is within easy reach of some of the best sporting grounds of the Great Wilderness ; not- ably the Oswegatchie waters, now conveniently accessible via the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. (Depot yh mile from the hotel. A free carriage meets every train.) This beautiful summer retreat is certainly one of the most desir- able of all the Adirondack hostelries, and its accessibility and numerous attractions (only 17^ m. from Carthage) are fast rendering it one of the most popular resorts in that en- tire region. (P. O. Harrisville, N. Y.) The small but thriving village of Harrisville is situated on the W. branch of Oswegatchie R. and contains a large tannery, several saw-mills, and other manufactories. This, too, has its history. HARRISVILLE. I3S We are informed by Hough, that in 1852 Prince Sullcowski of Belitz, (a political exile from Polish Austria) became a resident of this village . His uncle had been a general under Napoleon, and fell in the battle of the Pyramids. The Prince, in the revolution of 1848, became obnox- ious to the government, but managed to reach America with his family, and to secure a small stipend from a once large estate. He was attract- ed to this section by the opportunities it offered in the pursuit of his favorite diversion, that of hunting. Many years since some attention was called to this person, from a report that he was to marry the infam- ous Lola Montez ; but the story originated from parties in Europe who were interested in preventing his restoration to the royal favor, was easily refuted and had none of its intended effect. Subsequently he was restored to his hereditary titles and estates. There is a good hotel at Harrisville,(Kenwood Hall) from which parties can sally forth in the morning, enjoy capital fishing through the day, and return to the house in the evening. Or they may ascend W. Branch 12 or 14 m.— carrying around several rapids intervening — and visit its tributaries, lakes and ponds; or pass up Middle Branch from the forks of these two streams (3 m. above the village) 12 m. to Humes' (5 m. by road) and examine the interest- ing section beyond. In addition to Lake Bonaparte and its surrounding waters, the others of easy access from Harrisville, are the Jayville Lakes, 8^ m. N. E. via C. & A. R. R ; Jenny Creek L., 6 m. E.; South Creek L, 6 m. S. E.; Round L., uj£ m. (3 m. S. of Jayville); Long L., 3^ m. from latter; and the u rising star" of the Adirondacks, Star Lake, 20% m. E. via C. & A. R. R. Again we may proceed by good road to Fine 12 m., {via Pitcairn, 3 m. and East Pitcairn, 7 m.), thence n m. by poor road to "Landing"— whence it is passable boating up the E. Branch, (interrupted only by 3 easy portages of 40 rods, V 2 m., and 1 m.) through a dense forest to Cranberry L., ioj^ m. Total, 35 m. {The Star Lake, or Benson route is preferable?) Near East Pitcairn (N.) is Pontaferry Lake. Harrisville is also connected with Gouverneur by a fair road, 20 nv. Stage daily ; fare $1.50. Telegraphic station at this place for all points. 136 THE ADIRONDACKS. About 3 m. above Harrisville, the West and Middle Branches of the Oswegatchie unite their waters.* 5 m. up the latter stream where the main road terminates, is located the " Forest Home " of the hunter and woodsman, Warren Humes. His large farm is a notch in the wilderness, and within 40 rods of his house the Great Forest begins. We have now reached the borders of a district whose dense and undisturbed woods may truly be styled "the forest pri- meval." It is perhaps the least known, most sequestered, and wildest portion of the entire region. Save in improv- ing the immense sugar bush comprising upwards of 5,000 trees belonging to Humes, said to be the largest in the coun- try, the ax has made but slight encroachment upon these primitive wilds, which still retain their pristine beauty. As a natural result, the many unnavigable streams, and spark- ling lakes watering this section, are well stored with trout; and, not many years since, numerous wild animals, such as deer, bears, and even wolves and panthers, roamed almost as unmolested through these leafy solitudes as when the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. It may well be called the "Elysian Fields" of the sportsman ; though but few have yet tasted the delights of this locality. In the summer time it is no uncommon occurrence to sight a deer grazing on the fields of Humes' farm, and the howl of the wolf, and the scream of the panther still occasionally salute the ear of the trapper, who penetrates the somber forest a few miles only. Humes' house stands on the bank of the river, down which we may paddle our boat 8 or 10 miles. Navigation, however, is rather difficult in low water Jh either direction. Above his place the stream is navigable for 3 m. only, . ■where the first of a series of charming waterfalls prevents further progress by water. These several cascades (8 of them within 8 m., all situated in the midst of the wildest scenery) are respectively styled Biscuit (15 ft), Sluice (60 ft.), Mill Dam (45 ft.), Burnt (18 ft.), Ash-hill (20 ft.), Rainbow (55 ft.), Floodwood (35 ft.), and Clark (25 ft). 'Oswegatchie E. lias 3 branches, termed the Eastern, Middle and Western. The group of ponds terming the headwaters of the latter stream we have al- ready described, (see p. 123.) The Eastern Branch flows into and out of Cranberry Lake. O 3= m O > H O > > CD O < m X c HUMES FOREST HOME." 137 They present most bewitching attractions and should never be passed unnoticed. From Humes' place, rare sporting grounds and pictur- esque resorts are generally of easy access. In the neigh- borhood are numerous lakes and ponds, mostly headwaters Of the Middle Branch. The most important of these are as follows: — Liger's L. (i x }i), (named after Humes' uncle Elijah,) i}4 m. N. E. of Humes' by sled road, is a romantic sheet, lying on the summit of Beach Mt. Its "Elephant Rock" affords a delightful view of the surrounding scenery. The lake is fed by springs and contains speckled trout weighing y 2 to 2 lbs. South Creek L. i m. N. E. of this, furnishes no trout, but excellent hunting. Round L. (7/i x ^) 3^ m. S. E. of Liger's L. (trail), is a handsome little sheet, margined by rolling ground and beautiful woods, its crystal waters producing speckled trout in limited numbers, weighing J^ to 3 lbs. The 2 Squddle Hole P's (j/3 m. apart) % m. N. W. of Round L., are quite pretty and are deer and trout resorts. From Round L. it is 3 m. N. to Jayville. (See p. 140.) Long L. (i/i x %) % m. S. E. of Round L. (trail) is abundantly stocked with small trout. Streeter's L., 4 m. from Long L., supplies us with a few trout, and good hunting. Silver Dam P's, 6 m. S. E. of Humes', yield no trout, but are frequented by deer. Mouldy P.(ix^) 1 m. farther S. has only a few trout, but is a fine deer resort. It is a showy little lake, completely fringed with evergreens ; large, majestic pines predominat- ing on one side of it. Located on its shores is a log camp, near which is a good spring. It is 4 m. S. E. to Humes' enclosed shanty on Wolf Creek, From Wolf Creek camp to Humes' camp on Middle Branch of Oswegatchie R., it is 2^ m.; thence to his "Maple Hill Cottage,"* it is 3 m.; thence to his "Big Alder- • Three m. S. E. of M«ple Hill Cottage is Gill P. This pretty little basin was named after Mr. Watson Gill, of Syracuse. In the vicinity are several other secluded ponds awaitiBg names. 138 THE ADIRONDACKS. Bed Camp," it is 3 m.; thence to Rock and Sand Lakes, 3 m. — all reached by trails. Humes transports baggage and supplies from his resort to Wolf Creek Camp, via Silver Dam P's, and Mouldy P.; the first 3 m. with a wagon, en- abling sportsmen to ride over that portion of the route onlyj thence by sled, the remainder of the distance, 8 m. Rock and Sand Lakes (the latter named from its exquisite golden strand) — twin gems in the royal diadem of lakes and lakelets adorning the Adirondack Region — are perhaps the most remarkable of any we have named. Separated by a narrow ridge only 25 ft. wide, the former 6 ft. higher than the latter, they peacefully sleep side by side in their native beauty and loneliness. Being difficult of access, and rarely disturbed, they furnish sporting of superlative excellence. By trail it is about 2 y 2 m. N. E. to Wolf Lake (1 x 1 %); thence 2 m. N. W. to Cage's L. and Bladder P.; thence 2 m. to Streeter's Lake. Bladder P. is merely an offshoot of the larger sheet. Cage's L. Near them, W. or S. W., are the 2 Quiet Ponds, From Wolf L. it is 2 m. to Rily P.; so named because its shallow waters are often rendered turbid by the wading of numerous deer. Streeter's Fish P., a wonderful trout-pool, lies between Wolf L. and Rily Pond. One and one-half m. N. E. of Sand L. is Rock Pond. Sid's P.* lies about 2 m. S. of Sand L. There is a spring of water near of such frigid temperature that fish may be preserved in it for several days. Beech Mt. or Two Pound P. lies 1 or 2 m. N. E. of Sid's Pond. South W. of Sid's P. about 1 m , and 1^ m. S. W. of Sand L., is a connected group styled Cluster, or the Four South Ponds; and several miles W. of them are Tide, Buck, Hog, and other ponds. (Seep. 124.) Wolf P., 3 m. S. E. of Mouldy P., was most appropriate- ly named, as parties formerly camping in this wild place » ■ — _^ — j. « Named from Its discoverer, Sid. Snell. To Mm and his lather, the late Esquire Snell, the distinguished Adirondack surveyor, we are indebted lor valuable map-work on this section. THE HUMES DISTRICT. 139 were frequently serenaded by wolves and also panthers. Trout small; hunting extra. Massepia P., i% m. S. E. of Wolf P., affords fine trout- ing and deer-hunting. So does Griggs L., 5 m. S. E. of that. Panther L., about 3 m. S. E. of Grigg's L., is still occa- sionally visited by its namesake. (See p. 125 for other lakes.) It will be noticed that Humes has erected camps and placed boats on a number of the lakes and streams, within 1% (Liger's L.) to 19^ m. of his place. He is also build- ing camps at other points, easily reached. As he has re- cently leased 30,000 acres, in the wildest portion of the Adirondacks, adjoining his own lands and Dr. Webb's Ne- ha-sa-ne Park, (p. 104) he is enabled to offer opportunities to sportsmen not equaled in any other locality. It is his custom to furnish parties, who desire to occupy these camps, with supplies and transportation at reasonable rates, and to give them free use of his woodland lodges, if they are his guests. It should be noted in connection with this, that Dr. Webb's great purchase includes Rock and Sand Lakes and many other delectable waters in the vicinity. It is stated by reliable guides that S3 lakes and ponds may be visited from the former; the most remote being not more than 10 miles distant. As trespassing will not be allowed on Dr. Webb's domain, Humes' grand sporting grounds are great- ly enhanced thereby in value. From Humes' it is 5 m. to Harrisville, (12 m. by stream) making it 25^ m. to Carthage. It is 7 m. to Lake Bona- parte; and thus i^£ m. may be saved en route to Carthage, (24 m.) by leaving Harrisville out. The farm-hostelry of Warren Humes (P. O. Harrisville, N. Y.) has been quadrupled in capacity, and now consists of two large structures and nearly a dozen cottages, all suitably equipped, and offering most commodious and home-like quarters to visitors. This establishment is a model of neatness and comfort ; and the table is supplied with the products of the farm, flood and forest. Fresh milk and maple sugar are furnished in abundance. Well 140 THE ADIRONDACKS. and spring-water of icy coldness supply the house. Boats free to guests. Those who seek a quiet summer resting- place, will find "Forest Home" admirably adapted to their wants; while sportsmen will find it most suitable head- quarters for excursions to the -neighboring streams and lakes, where rare sport may be enjoyed. Humes is a distinguished forester and hunter; thorough- ly versed in woodcraft and in' :all the habits' of .game. Hence, those seeking his advice, or placing themselves in his charge in a sporting sense, may confidently look for favorable results. Tourists en route to Humes' now leave the cars on the Carthage & Adirondack Railroad, at Har- risville, whence a pleasant drive brings them to this famous resort. At Jayville, a hamlet in the woods, extensive mines, pro- ducing iron ore of the best quality, are worked with good success. Fair sport is afforded by a cluster of lakes and ponds in the immediate neighborhood. Among these are "Twin," "Goose," "Pine," "Bear," "Sucker," "Anderson" and "Dry Timber." The route (good path) from Jayville to Round L. (3 m. S.) for a large portion of the way, lies through a dense and primi- tive forest ; beautiful, fragrant and silent, acres of whose floor are carpeted with the softest, velvety moss, forming most grateful smoothness for our feet. About midway we cross the romantic gorge of Jenny Creek, and here, by the side of an ice-cold spring, beneath the "pillared shade" of the leafy greens, we usually take our lunch. From this route, a short distance from Jayville, a path leads (1.) to Dry Timber Lake. Oswegatchie, (Forest Union Hotel) on the Carthage & Adirondack R. R , is the present station for Star Lake, about 2% m. distant. A new railroad station will soon be established within 1% m. of that resort. The ride from Oswegatchie is over a good highway, and mostly through a magnificent forest. Stages await every train. Fare, 25 cents. Star Lake, (i l 4 x ') sfar-Yike in form, purity and brightness, is one of the fairest of all the galaxy of gems adorning the Adirondack Wilderness. On the early maps C/l H > W. r- > STAR LAKE. 141 it appeared as "Point Lake," having thus been designated from its curiously scalloped shores; and it has but recently received its more appropriate name. Its waters are as clear as crystal, objects being discernible at a great depth. It is apparently one vast spring-hole, having no visible in- lets or outlet.* This many armed, islet-adorned, and hill- encircled little loch, fringed here and there with golden sand, presents a lake-picture of peculiar and entrancing loveliness. Indeed, it may well be termed, Blue Mountain Lake in miniature. Until the completion of the Carthage & Adirondack R. R.f to this locality, few were aware of the existence of this veritable dream of beauty ; but it is now so easily accessible, that increasing numbers of visitors are attracted thither; and as a natural result, cottages are being rapidly built on its margin, and sites for numerous others are in great demand. Residents of Utica, Rome and Syracuse, are enabled, by the admirable train service offered them, to breakfast at home and dine the same day at Star Lake. No other Adirondack resort offers equal accessibility and none greater attractions J On a commanding site, at a convenient distance from the lake, stands the Star Lake House, which, with its recent improvements, offers fair accommodations to travelers. The Edgewood House — hidden among the trees — has also a pleasant situation, affording an extensive view of the lake. It receives its share of public patronage, and has been accorded much praise. The Cottage Hotel, if not so pleasantly situated as the others, is well patronized throughout the season. The post office (Oswegatchie, N. Y.) is in the house. The pretty and unique little school-house near, with its 5 or 6 pupils, is an object of curiosity and admiration to visitors. * During wet seasons several tiny streams discharge Into the lake, the lat- ter outpouring through a small channel Into Fairy Pond. t Many people, seeking summer-homes in the Adirondacks are taking ad- vantage of the pleasant and easy access to them afforded by the Cakthage 6 Adirondack k. E., now controlled by the N. Y. C. E. K. Co. Tourists passing over this well-conducted line are treated with marked attention and courtesy. With its heavy grades and fine forest scenery it is a very interest- ing line of travel. tFrom Carthage, by this line, the distance to Lake Bonaparte, is 17 m.; to Harrisvllle. 20% m.; tojayville, 29# m.; to Star.Lake, 41X m. 142 THE ADIRONDACKS. The tourist will be richly repaid for ascending Bald or Sunset Mountain, rising near the Star Lake House. Al- though mostly devoid of large trees, it is clothed with ver- dure to the very crown. By the well-kept footpath, pret- tily fringed with shrubbery, the easy ascent can be made within 10 or 15 minutes. The summit, though of but slight •elevation, commands a delightful view of the various points, bays and islands of the lake, as well as of the dark heights of the forest surrounding Cranberry Lake, a wilderness in other directions seemingly interminable, and different mountain peaks that stretch in cerulean fairness across the far horizon of the east. We know of few views so satisfac- tory to be enjoyed with so little effort. Panther Mt. (Maple Hill) with beautifully wooded slopes, rises from the W. shore; and a somber, nameless peak lifts its crown at the N. W., near Lake View Point. This might appropriately be called Rocky-Mt.-in-disguise, as no one would imagine when viewing its dense evergreen cover- ing that it is girdled by precipitous rocks, the formation of which is of singular quality; similar in some respects to the marble so extensively quarried at Gouverneur. Here the curiosity-seeker would find a very satisfactory field for re- search. Lake View Point is a beautiful, foliage-clad promon- tory reaching far into the lake, and offering from its elevated heights enchanting views in many directions. No finer site was ever furnished by nature for a grand hostelry ; yet it is still unoccupied, while hundreds of people each year pass on to far less desirable resorts, per force of circumstances, being refused admission to this enchanted land, because the hotel accommodations at Star Lake are far too limited for the great demand. The scene surveyed from Ridge Point, which extends from the S. W. side of the lake, is also of absorbing inter- est, as ten distinct radii, sufficient to satisfy any reasonable star, may be counted. The neck of Ridge Point is so narrow that boats are frequently dragged or carried across it, from one lake to the other (" Second" to " Third"). The extremities of Ridge and Lake View Points nearly touch each other, and form a charming strait, which flows from "Second" to "Third" Lake. STAR LAKE SECTION. 143 Lulu Island, in form and dress of singular grace and loveliness, is separated from Long Island by a little chan- nel just wide enough to permit the passage of a boat. The exquisite Echo Bay on the S. side, with its moss- clad banks and wealth of forest — solid walls of somber spruce — and Lonesome Bay on the N. W. side (recently receiving the more suitable name, Francesca) — long, weird and lovely — are attractions that should not be overlooked. Several sparkling streams within a mile or two of the hotels, and Little River, \i/ 2 to 2j£ m. away, afford fine trouting; while other sequestered waters still more distant, offer abundant sport. Of the numerous short excursions which may be made in this neighborhood, the following deserve particular mention : — The Twin Lakes {yi x yk and J{ x %), affluents of Lit- tle River, lying i}£ m. N. E. of the Star Lake House, are peculiarly attractive. That portion of the route, which is a branch of the main highway, is a fragrant aisle through a beautiful forest, and a walk or ride under overarching trees, with interlacing foliage, conducts us to a spot of gentle loveliness. The evergreens, clothing in rich profusion the high ridge (75 ft.) separating the two lakes, which lie with- in a few rods of each other, afford delicious coolness while we rest in their shadow, and give an additional charm to this sylvan retreat. These tarns (one 6y$ ft. higher than the other, into which it flows) are nourished by mountain springs pure and cold 1 , and are amply stocked with trout; but though open to public inspection, no trespassing will be allowed, as they are private property. There is a hatchery on the grounds capable of producing 300,000 fry yearly ; three times as many as are needed to supply these waters. Another lakelet not far away is styled Anderson's Pond; named after the proprietor of this preserve. Benson Mines, terminus of C. & A. R. R., 43] m. N. E. of Carthage, and 2j^ m. N. E. of Star Lake by a fairly good road, are well worthy of the attention of the scientific. At this place the Magnetic Iron Ore Co. has erected exten- sive works, and is producing, from vast beds of iron exist- 144 THE ADIRONDACKS. ing in the vicinity, an immense quantity of superior ore. The village is of considerable size and shows great activity. Little River noted for its numerous (small) trout, passes near. Heath P. (}4 x J^), a secluded deer-resort and source of Little River, lies about 3 m. E. of Benson's. Sternberg's, on the Big Inlet, 4% S. of Benson's, is reached via the old "Albany" or "Military Road"; the route passing near Lost or Lonesome P. and Hick's P., whence Cranberry Lake may be visited. A road also extends from Benson Mines to Cranberry Lake ; distance about 8 m. A daily stage connects with the cars and conveys passengers to that lake, where steamer is taken for Hare wood Park Hotel, formerly Cranberry Lake House. (See Cranberry Lake.) It is reported that the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. is to be extended to the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R.; forming a junction with that line at Lake Lila, (Smith's Lake). (See p. 114) One should not fail to visit Little River Falls, \% m. S. W. of the lake. To make this excursion, cross to the farther side, and debark from what is called "Third Lake". Thence there is a good path that soon strikes a lumber- road, and after following this a short distance (r.) the path is resumed (1.) (Little Twin Ponds and Beaver Meadow Pond opening into one of them may be visited en route by diverging (1.) and following a well-marked path a few rods.) We soon cross a beaver- meadow, where unmistakable signs of deer are seen. Here may be observed what seems to be an insignificant beaver-pool, {yi m. from the lake,) which nearly all pass by unnoticed. But do not fail to take a boat — usually moored by the shore; and soon, while gliding over the placid waters, you will enter a fairy-land of almost unknown and rarely visited beauty. This has received the name of Fairy Pond, and is composed of 3 sheets closely linked together. Near the first, a remarkable ledge, displaying bare and precipitous sides, rises boldly from the leafy depths of the woods, a unique and con- spicuous object in the landscape. At the narrows, the boughs overhead fairly interlock, forming a canopy of con- LITTLE RIVER FALLS. BROWN'S FALLS. '45 stant shade. In fine, with its arching gateways, rich green forest and verdure-draped banks, it is difficult to imagine a more charming picture of serene and shaded loveliness than this little tarn presents. Resuming the tour we pass through a handsome forest, and finally the path descends abruptly to Little River. Here a captivating scene of absolute seclusion greets the eye. The stream, of considerable volume, rushes impetu- ously through a narrow chasm, and forms a picturesque cascade 20 feet high; the waters rebounding gracefully from their rocky bed. The white foam of the falling tor- rent, the seething rapids whirling by, the murmuring music of the moving flood, and the wild and romantic character of the environs, render this spot one of the loveliest resorts to be found in this entire section. A rew rods below the falls, on the bank of the stream, where delicious water bubbles up, picnic parties often take their lunch, the bill of fare perchance including crispy trout, freshly taken from the river. A visit to Brown's Falls should not be missed. Indeed it is a favorite point of pilgrimage with sojourners at Star Lake. The route leads to Oswegatchie Station, 2^ m.; thence to Oswegatchie River, 3 miles; crossing Little River twice, here a stream of respectable size. The drive thither offers a succession of landscapes in which there is a delightful mingling of forest, field and flood. One charm- ing scene succeeds another like enchantment, — here wild, there pastoral — until the very falls are reached. Here the full width of the Oswegatchie makes a descent of from 50 to 75 ft., in 3 or 4 pitches, within j{ mile. The flashing silver of the leaping waters, the luxuriant foliage gracing the banks, and the picturesque rocks and islands that bor- der and divide the current, form altogether one of the fin- est pieces of river scenery we have yet surveyed in all our wanderings ; and should a day be spent around this spot, one would long to return again and again to its romantic loveliness. From Brown's Falls the ride may be continued with much enjoyment down the smiling valley of the Oswe- gatchie, through ever-changing scenery, to Fine, 3^ m. 13 146 THE ADIRONDACK^. farther. The road from Star Lake to this point (9 m.), either via Brown's Falls or Blue Mt., is excellent nearly all the way. This busy little village, with its pretty cascades, mineral wealth and pleasant surroundings, offers a very agreeable resting-place for an hour or two, or for several days. At the St. Nicholas — a good hotel — the traveler will find a well-spread table and rural comfort. Stage daily to Gouverneur; fare, $1.50 or $1.75 ; distance, 243^ miles. Before leaving this section we feel warranted in inviting especial attention to this favored locality. First, not to name the ease with which it is reached, its elevation should be considered, as Star Lake is nearly 2,000 ft. above the level of the sea Next, its healthfulness should be remem- bered, as no malarial marshes pollute its borders; the shores being clean and high. The environing forest is of rare luxuriance ; and the clearing on the north side, inter- spersed with handsome groves and emerald fields harmo- niously blended, gives variety and completeness to the landscape, while it furnishes the various products of its farm~, to the neighboring cottagers. No element of beauty is lacking here; though grandeur may be absent, as no lofty mountains disclose their sublime heights. Owing to the size and peculiar shape of the lake, it is rarely tossed in dangerous waves ; therefore boating is much safer than on the larger sheets. To the sportsman also, this district has its attractions, as the lake has been repeatedly stocked with trout, and fine specimens are often taken from its waters. Furthermore, like Humes', it lies on the very verge of the wildest por- tion of the "Great Wilderness," where the pleasures of the "line and the chase" may be enjoyed to the utmost. Streeter's L. {% x }i) is reached from Star Lake as fol- lows : Good road, 1^ m. S. E. to Moncrief's, a farm-house on the margin of the wilderness. Thence trail 3}£ m. This is a lovely lake, adorned with several sand beaches and a forest peculiarly attractive. It is a famous deer re- sort, though not prolific of trout. Its outlet affords fine fishing. From this sheet one may strike, within 1% or 2 m., BIG INLET OF THE OSWEGATCHIE. 147 the noted Middle Branch and a net-work of glittering waters more remote. (For Wolf, Cage's, Long, Sand and Rock Lakes, etc , see pp. 137, 138.) The road above named passes the pleasant "Walker Place" (1 m. from Star L )— a well cultivated homestead, carved out of the forest. This is the home of a noted fam- ily of pioneers, who have long contributed to the pleasure and convenience of sportsmen visiting this locality. "John James," next to the eldest of several brothers, is a man of untiring energy and of the strictest integrity. He stands ready at any hour to serve the wants of those desir- ing shelter, the productions of the farm, or a conveyance in any direction. We unhesitatingly commend this sturdy son of the wilderness to those who require faithful service, in his line of business. Again, pursuing the road from Walker's, 5 m. farther — leaving Moncrief's to the right — we reach Sternberg's (6 m. from Star Lake) located on the Big Inlet (E. Branch of the Oswegatchie) at "Albany Bridge," so named from a rude structure which many years ago spanned the river here.* This is on the line of "The Old Albany or Military Road," so often mentioned in this work. (Seep. 112.) The "Emilyville Road," named on p. 125, terminated at this point. This place is at the head of about 2^ m. of rapids, on which, about June 1st, we have a few days of fine fishing, as the trout seem to run up from Cranbefry Lake. Quite a number are caught every year weighing 4 and even 5 lbs. each. From the foot of the rapids, around which we must carry 3 m., it is about 3 m. by river — called "the flow" — to the lake proper, whence it is some 9 m. to Harewood Park Hotel, at the foot of that sheet. A little steamer belonging to the hotel, if notified, meets parties coming from Star Lake and Sternberg's, at the head of "the flow," and conveys them to that resort. Several handsome cottages will be noticed en route, notably those of A. Ames Howlett and A. H. Hiscock of Syracuse. In passing along the rapids the traveler should turn aside to examine Big * The thirsty traveler, journeying towards Sternberg's, should pause, H in. beyond Walker's, at "Dawson's Spring," a crystal fountain, icy cold, pure and sweet, embowered In evergreens near the road (r.) 148 THE ADIRONDACKS. and Little Falls, i}& and J^ m. respectively, below Stern- berg's,* as they are worthy of inspection. Th'e accommodations at the Inlet House, (P. O. Benson Mines, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y.) are simple; but the house is clean, the food sufficient and the charges reasonable. Many are content to remain here for weeks ; some for the entire season. It will be remembered that this place is not only accessible from Star Lake, but from Benson Mines, 4^ m. distant, by road. Above the Inlet House, a Stillwater extends to High Falls, a distance of about 19 miles. By road it is only 6 m. to that point. Within 16 m. by river (Washburn's Camp midway) or 5 m. by road, we reach a vast, natural, treeless meadow, embracing from 400 to 600 acres, styled "The Plains", which is embosomed in mountains, densely wooded to the crowns, and is the favorite feeding-ground of deer. The soil, though mostly composed of magnetic sand, yields strawberries and whortleberries in abundance. This ideal trout-stream threads its serpentine course through a lovely valley about $£ m. wide, bordered on both sides with a virgin forest. The interspersing evergreens, adorning in rich variety this fair vale, give a park-like as- pect to the scene ; and we almost imagine, as we float along that we are gliding by the well-kept grounds of some English gentleman. Twelve m. up the river (no road) is, located the "New York Camp," where, in one or more open shanties, com- fortable shelter is found. High Falls, 7 m. above this place by stream, though rather difficult to reach, will amply repay the visitor, as they are charming enough. And here the angler rarely fails to secure an abundance of trout. Carrying around the falls, we are offered fair navigation for 4 m. Within the first mile we cross the boundary of Dr. Webb's Preserve. In this long stretch of 23 miles, only 2 carries of a dozen rods each occur. Fine river scenery is not only afforded on a trip up the Big Inlet, but hunting and fishing of remarkable excellence. Among the spring-holes abounding on this route the most important are the famous "Cages," at the mouth of the out- * Our thanks are due to Mr. Sternberg for reliable information furnished. GOUVERNEUR. 149 let of Cage's L., lying several miles W.; ''Wolf Creek Pool;" "Glory;" and the "Five-mile-rock," 5 m. above the Inlet House. Many parties make this ideal trout-stream their camping ground ; and well they may, as it is much more desirable than that of the lake with its broad, danger- ous water?, and dead-tree-lined shores. For the informa- tion of sportsmen, it should be stated, however, that these privileges are not gratuitous, and that "trouting" and "deer- ing" are not "as free as water". A large tract, embracing 7,000 acres, through which the Inlet flows, is owned by D. C. Connell, who keeps a forester on the ground to collect tribute-money. Each person must pay fi.co for license to fish, hunt or camp for an hour or for all the season. From the Inlet House to "The Plains" it is only 5 m. by road, and beyond this wagons do not go. From here to Big Deer Pond (Colvin's "Lost Lake") it is 6 m. S. E. by sled-road, over which baggage is hauled. Near this, are Clear, Nick, Tamarack, Long, Cowhorn, Bossout and Cat Mountain Ponds, with good sporting at most of them. It is also less than 2 m. from Lost L. to the head of Mud L., on Bog. R. West a mile or so from the "Plains" are the Five Ponds. S. by S. E. 6 m. lies Gull L., also reached by sled- road. We pass on the way, West, Gall and Cracker Ponds. Two and a half m. S. W. is Nigger L.; and Partlow, Oven, Smith's or Lila, (11 m. from the "Plains") and other lakes, lie in that section. (See p. 109). From Gull L. to Crooked L. it is about 4 m. W. This is the extreme head of the Oswegatchie. Numerous small ponds are scattered throughout this part of the Wilderness, lying there in their sparkling beauty, jewels ornate on the forest's em- erald robe.* Thirteenth : — Gouverneur — named in honor of Gouver- neur Morris, originally proprietor of the most of this town — is beautifully located on Oswegatchie River, and is the seat of a flourishing academy, and of a thriving trade. A rich variety of interesting minerals, including amethyst, abounds in the neighborhood. Marble of excellent quality * Perhaps all of the lakes and ponds just named He within the boundaries of Dr. Webb's Ne-ha-sa-ne Pakk, and must not he encroached upon. ISO THE ADIRONDACKS. and various colors is found on the bank of the river, about 4 m. above the village. Sawyer's Creek Falls — consisting of several cascades, occurring in a gorge extending half-a-mile, and bounded by rocky walls from 20 to 50 ft. high — are 4 m. from Gouv- erneur and command the admiration of every visitor. One of those ancient works constructed by the "Mound- builders," so common in the western country, may be in- spected in the vicinity ; where within an embankment en- closing about three acres, many vestiges of Indian opera- tions and their rude sculptural efforts remain. The first settlement was made here in 1805, by Dr. Richard Town- send and several others, who came through the pathless wilderness from Lake George, guided only by a compass. With an outfit of but three days' provisions, they were seven days on the route, and experienced great hardships and some peril — being followed for a long distance by panthers. Finally, when nearly famished and exhausted, they reached the Oswegatchie ; where its placid course was broken by a small cas- cade, and its channel divided by two beautiful green islands, in the present village of Gouverneur. — (Dr. Hough.) The Van Buren and the Fuller House are the principal hotels. Warren Humes, Star Lake, Trout Lake and Cranberry Lake, well in the heart of the Wilderness, are the chief re- sorts for parties starting from this point. From Gouverneur there is a daily stage to Harrisville, 20 m, (fare $1.50); whence that" important district (called 'Humes") embracing the headwaters of the Middle Branch of Oswegatchie R., may be visited. (See p. 136.) From Gouverneur to Hailesboro the distance is 2 J^ m.; thence to Fowler, 4^ m.; Fullerville, 2^ m.; Edwards, 5^ m.; Fine, 9^ m. Total, 24^ m. Stages daily from Gouverneur to Fine; fare <$r. 50 or $1.75. (St. Nicholas Hotel. See p. 146.) The construction of the Gouverneur & Oswegatchie R. R. to Edwards, will doubtless render staging hereafter un- necessary. This railway was built in the interest of the owners of extensive talc mines, located near the flourishing little village. This silicate is used in the manufacture of paper.* " This railroad has since passed into the hands of the N. Y. C. E. E. Co. 'if ■? p|';«i/| ' - * 1 o as H TROUT LAKE. 151 From Fine we have a choice of two routes to Cranberry Lake, ist: — 5 m. main road to "Griffin's", then 6 m. poor woods road to "Landing" at foot of the Stillwater, from which, by boat, it is 10J6 m. up the Oswegatchie to the foot of the lake— encountering three portages en route of yi, % and 1 m. each respectively. This route is rarely traveled. 2d: — (and now the favorite route) 6% m. from Fine, good road to Oswegatchie; thence 2^ m. to Star Lake; i m. to Walker's; thence rough woods road 5 m. to "Big Inlet" of Cranberry Lake. (Sternberg's; see" p. M7-) From Gouverneur, Trout Lake, (8 or 10 m. distant) may be reached by livery direct, or via railroad to Edwards, 14 or 15 m. Thence it is 2 m. farther, or 35^- m. to the Trout Lake House, whose stage meets every train and conveys passengers to that resort. Fare, about 40 cents. It may also be visited from Richville (7 m.) and De Kalb Junction (ir m.) ; both stations on R. W. & O. R. R. Trout L. (2 x ^) is graced with 21 islands and islets, generally verdure-clad, some wild and picturesque — seem- ingly floating like fairy shallops upon the silvery tide. The shores are bold and rocky; interspersed with charming little sand-margined bays. In some places the banks as- sume the form of precipices — though dotted with foliage — and are faithfully reflected, with all their colors and tra- cery, in this liquid mirror. Trout L. was formerly one of the finest bodies of water in Northern New York, as it was then bordered with a dense growth of yellow and Norway pine, spruce, cedar and tamarack trees. But the cupidity or the lumberman outweighed the sentiment of the traveler, and the axe has made sad havoc among the surroundings. It will be seen, however, that its attractions have not all de- parted; and should the efforts being made to prevent fur- ther devastation prove successful, the timber will renew it- self sufficiently within a few years, to restore to its pristine beauty most of the forest scenery so ruthlessly destroyed. A large hotel (Trout Lake House ; P. O. Hermon, or Edwards, N. Y.) offers good entertainment; and two little steamers give delightful excursions to tourists. Numerous 152 THE ADIRONDACK^. cottages adorn the banks, giving interest and animation to the place.* Cedar L. lies within Yi m. ; Wolf L , 2 m ; Clear L, 21^ m.; Mud L., 3^ m.; Huckleberry L., 3 m.; and Chub L , 4% m - All of these except Cedar, are in the woods. They form an interesting group and merit examination. Fourteenth : — From De Kalb Junction (Goulding House) to Hermon, 5 m. ; Russell (Grass River), 6 m.; Cla'rksboro (Clifton Hotel), 11 m.; Clifton Iron Mines, 2 m ; thence to Cranberry Lake, n % m. Total, 35^ m.f There is a daily stage from DeKalb Junction to Russell, where conveyances may be obtained for the balance of the route. The R. R. connecting the Iron Mines with E. De- Kalb Station is not in operation now. In fact it never was employed as a transit for passengers, being solely used by the Clifton Iron Co., by which it is owned, in the trans- portation of iron ore, that exists in considerable quantities in the neighborhood. Clarksboro is 3 m. in the woods, and is pleasantly situ- ated at the foot of Clifton High Falls, on Grass R. Allen Pond lies 1 J^ m. N. From DeKalb Junction to Clarksboro and thence to the bridge over Grass R. (5 m.) the road is good. Fine fishing from this point up the river. Copper Falls and the veins of copper near well repay a visit. Bridge to Tooley P. 2% m ; road, fair. This is a beautiful sheet of water nearly 1 mile long, and noted as a favorite resort of deer. Thence 3 m. of poor road to Cook or Davis Pond. One m. be) ond this we strike Oswegatchie R., just above "The Old Indian Fishing Ground," an old-time resort of the Oswegatchie Indians, a place once famous for the size and quantity of its trout. From here boats descend this beautiful stream %y 2 m. to the foot of the Stillwater; fine camping spots and spring-holes occurring on the way. jThence it is n m. by * To the accomplished woodsman and surveyor, James McKee, Jr., of Ed- wards, N. Y., we desire to express our acknowledgments for Imparting val- uable materials used in these pages. t From DeKalb Junction to Fine, It is about 25 m. (See p. 152.) t In tbis reacli ol Sjf m., three portages must be made of %, % and 1 m. carry from this Stillwater N T . to Moose Head P.; and S. about 2 m. to Benson's Alines. See p. 143. CRANBERRY LAKE. 153 road through the woods to Fine. At this point is an old mill dam, near the site of a former settlement made by G. M. Dillon and others, long since deserted. Dillon Pond, a charming, oval-shaped lakelet, lies in the neighborhood. The abandonment of the mill dam leaves nearly J^ m. of bad rapids immediately above ; so, although there is i mile of Stillwater above these, the traveler would better remain in the wagon 2 m. farther to the foot of the lake, or pro- ceed still farther (i/^ m.) along the shore to Harewood Park Hotel. This establishment is located at the terminus of the road, in full view of the lake and Silver P. ( i J^ x J^), but 65 rods away. What was known as the Cranberry Lake House, has passed into the hands of the Harewood Park Hotel Co. The Bishop tract of 75 acres, the Gilbert lot of 42 acres, and the Hodskin lot of 112 acres, have become the property of this incorporated association. These com- bined possessions present a grand lake-frontage of more than a mile in extent. While the original hotel has been greatly improved, an additional structure of large size has been erected, having all the modern improvements. The parlors and apartments are spacious and tastefully fur- nished. A special feature of this house is its variety of home-comforts. The cuisine is of unusual excellence and the table will be maintained at the highest standard. Not to name trout and venison, that seasonably abound, the hotel-farm of 75 acres furnishes fresh eggs, milk, butter and vegetables in abundance. Several* neat- and commodious cottages will be immediately constructed, facing the water, where families can have all the privacy and conveniences of their own homes. {Later. The company now possesses 15,000 acres. The Harewood Park Hotel, in its entirety, can enter- tain 175 guests. (P. O., Harewood, N. Y.) Boats and guides may be obtained here and a little steamer will convey parties to different points on the lake. Cranberry, or Oswegatchie Lake, (9 m. long and 5 m. wide, with the overflow) is really an expansion of Oswe- gatchie River, which, rising by three branches in N. part of Herkimer Co., pursues a circuitous course of 125 m. through 1 54 THE ADIRONDACKS. St. Lawrence Co., in a N. W, direction, and unites with St. Lawrence River at Ogdensburg.* Several islands bedeck this lake, among which are "Buck," "Birch," "Gull Rock," and "Matilda." Its waters, and those of its inlets and outlet, are plentifully supplied with fish, having yielded in some instances, speckled trout 5 lbs. in weight ; and the hunting around it is still very good, though somewhat injured in reference to deer, by the raising of the lake some 15 ft. by means of the dam at the foot. The marginal scenery is also seriously affected by the same agency, as numerous "drowned" trees standing in the water near the shores, greatly mar its beauty. It is encompassed by highlands of fair proportions, and Bear, Long Joe, Graves, Cat and Edgar Mts. soar far above the surrounding heights. Iron Mt. about 4 m. from the lake, (E.) is composed mostly of pure metallic iron. The summit of Bear Mt., only 1 m. from the hotel, is easily reached by good path and offers a fine view. Clear Pond, E., and Lily Pad P., (source of Brandy Creek) N. E., are accessible by trails. Curtis Pond is reached by rowing up E. Inlet as far as practicable, and following thence a good, but ascending path 2 m. "This," said the distinguished angler, the late lamented " Uncle " Reuben Wood, " is an all-fired nice pond, abounding with the prettiest trout I ever saw." A legend says that one can- catch but a certain number of the spotted beauties here; after which no lure, however tempt- ing — be it bait or fly — will induce this noble game of the fountain to take the hook. Mud P. is ^ m. N. E. of Curtis P., whence it is a short distance E. to Trout P. Thence a carry leads E. 1^ m. to Panther P., from which we carry W. of S. % m. to Triangle P. A carry also leads from Trout P., S. E. ij{ m. to Silver L., lying S. W. of Triangle P. Lake Colvin lies between Cranberry and Silver L's. and near the latter. Lying N. of L. Colvin is Beaver * Os-we-gatcMe or OgJi-swa-gatchie. (locally known as the Oshegoshy,) Is an Indian name, which signifies going or coming round a hill. The great bend In Oswegatchle Klver, on the borders of Lewis County, originated Its sig- nificant name. An Indian tribe, bearing the name of the river, once lived upon Its banks; but its late, like that of many sister tribes, has been to melt away before the progressive step of the Anglo-Saxon. (Slmms.) Sabattls defined Oswegalch as meaning slow ana long. ENVIRONS OF CRANBERRY LAKE. 155 Meadow P.; and S. W. of that is Lake Ely. Heath P. lies W. of Cranberry Lake. (See p. 144.) Crooked Lake, the extreme source of the Oswegatchie, lying 12 m. S., is reached by pursuing a line indicated by marked trees. It is much more easily visited, however, from the Red Horse Chain. (See p. 108.) Grass R. is 2^ m. N. E. of the hotel by carry — crossing on the way Silver P., "beautiful as a mirror of silver, set in a framework of emeralds, festooned with lilies." A short distance up the stream is the Reservoir. From here a road leads to Colton. Grass R. affords some fine stilhvaters and trout-fishing, especially below the Reservoir, and is wildly attractive. Some of its scenery, however, in the approach to Massawepie L., its principal fountain-head, is dismal enough. Big Inlet (Oswegatchie R.) enters the head of Cranberry L about 9 m. from the hotel. To this point, and 3 m. farther, up the river, the steamer carries travelers. The stream is very enticing to sportsmen. In ascending it, we carry 3 m. around the rapids to the old "Albany Bridge," (Sternberg's). From there the route is given on p. 148 . At the foot of the rapids just named, the fly may be cast profitably, as here the large speckled trout congregate in considerable numbers. From the Big Inlet we may reach the pretty little Olm- stead P. by carrying 2 m. S. E. Near this (S. W.) are two other tiny sheets. S. of Olmstead, and in the vicinity of Glasby and Fish Pole P's. is Cat Mt., a panther resort. There are numerous excellent deer and trout ponds adjacent to Cranberry Lake, that have never been laid down upon any map. It is claimed by good authorities, that there are more than 100 sheets of water within 7 m. of the hotel. So it may easily be believed this lake and its environs afford an extensive field for the sportsman. The noted trout pools of this section are in Brandy Brook, E. side of the lake ; in Basin Brook, entering the Oswegatchie 1 m. below the dam ; and at "Cook's Spring Hole," 4 m. farther down that stream. The best and most suitable sites for camps will be found on the beautiful Oswegatchie, both above and below the lake. 156 THE ADIRONDACKS. Adventurous parties sometimes penetrate the Bog River region from Cranberry L., and proceed thence to Tupper Lake by the following routes : 1. By boat, 1 m. up Chair Rock Creek, entering the lake's S. E. extremity ; thence carry 2 m. S. W.; thence cross Oval, or Darn Needle P.; thence carry 2j£ m. S. E. to Fourth P. There is also a portage opened from Chair Rock C. to the headwaters of Bog R.; distance 3 m. (See Route "3." 2. Carry from Darn Needle or Oval P., (really two sheets connected by a narrow neck) 2 m. S. E ; cross Grass P.; carry 2 m. S. E , striking Bog R. a litrie below Mud Lake. Or carry from Oval P. to Gull P. (k * I) H m - s - E - (pass- ing John's P., a wild and lonely sheet, about midway of the route); thence carry 1 m. S. E., to Graves P. (See "3.") 3. From Curtis P., carry about 3 m. S. E.; cross Silver L., i/£ m.; carry j4 m. S. W.; cross Otter P., y 2 m.; carry 1 m. S. W.; cross Graves' P., ^( m.; carry 5^ m. S. W.; cross Fourth Pond j£ m.; pass down stream yi m.; cross Three Chain Ponds (1st, 2d and 3d) i}& m ; pass down Bog River, 4 m.; carry 30 rods; cross Hitchings' P., j£ m ; pass down Bog R., 1% m., and up Horse Shoe P. Outlet, 1 y 2 m.; cross Horse Shoe P., 1 m.; thence carry over good road, 3 m. to Big Tupper Lake. Distance from Cran- berry Lake about 23 m. The portages are not cut out to any extent, but this could be accomplished with little labor, as they are not very difficult. (See route from Big Tupper to Mud Lake?) When ordered, a stage will run from the hotel to the dam on Grass R., 5 J4 to 7 m. distant, whence boats may be taken for Childwood Park House, 4 m. up that stream, if timely notice has been given. (See Lake Massawepie.) CANTON. 157 Fifteenth:— Canton, the county seat of St. Lawrence Co., is a lively manufacturing village situated on Grass R., here affording great hydraulic power. It contains the county buildings, the St. Lawrence University — a very popular school attended by young men from all parts of the U. S. — and a number of fine churches. The leading hotels are the Haven and American, where good liveries are kept. A vein of hematite and magnetic iron ore combined, of remarkable richness, has recently been discovered in the neighborhood. In the S. part of the town, about 1 m. be- low the High Falls on Grass R. this stream issues from a cleft in the rock, forming a most romantic scene. Here sulphuret of iron abounds ; and large quantities of cop- peras and alum have been manufactured. A neat little steamer offers delightful excursions from the village up Grass R. 5 m. to a handsome grove, fitted up for the use of pleasure parties. Canton being located nearly midway between DeKalb Junction and Potsdam, is a desirable point of departure for either the Raquette, Grass or Oswegatchie sporting grounds. It is but 5 m. farther to the Raquette than from Potsdam, and 5 to 7 farther to Fine, than from DeKalb Junction or Gouverneur. Thus the sportsman can change his route, without extra cost or time if so disposed. The distance to Colton is 14 m.; stage daily. (Thence see route from Potsdam). Route to Cranberry Lake : Canton to Clarksboro, 23 m.; thence the route is identical with the one leading from De Kalb Junction, p. 152 ; making total distance to Cranberry L , 36^ m. From Canton to Fine it is 30 m. by good road. For route thence see p. 151. At Canton good teams with careful drivers may be ob- tained at the Haven House. The journey to Moose Head, on the Raquette, to Cranberry L., or to Star L. is made in a day. Boats can be carried over these routes safely and without extra charge, by means of a rack on which they are placed overhead, entirely out of the way. Very light boats — marvels of beauty and symmetry — especially 14 158 THE ADIRONDACKS. adapted to this locality, can be purchased here of the famous Adirondack boat manufacturer, J. H. Rush- ton.* Sixteenth: — Potsdam, a flourishing village, settled in 1803 by Benj. Raymond from Richmond, Mass., is located on Raquette River, here "divided by islands, broken by rapids, and furnishing an extensive water-power." It is a pleasant town, possessing great beauty of situation, many fine streets and handsome buildings, and is the site of the "State Normal and Training School for Northern New York." Its several large mills and factories, and exhaust- less quarries of the celebrated Potsdam Sandstone, (form- ing elegant and invaluable material for building or nagging purposes,) give life and animation to the place. f There are two good hotels, viz : the Albion and the Windsor. At either of these, guides and conveyances may be procured. To Russell it is 18 m.; thence to Cranberry L. 24^ m. (Seep. 152). This route to the Great Wilderness up Raquette River and Valley is generally much underrated and only occa- sionally followed by the general tourist ; but it really pos- sesses attractions in the way of diversified scenery and sporting opportunities, rarely excelled. A pleasant ride of only 4 hours from the cars, over an excellent road (21^ miles), is all the exertion it costs to reach good fishing and hunting territory. To Colton, the last place of importance on the route, it is 9 m. This is a thriving village, pleasantly situated also on Raquette R., where this stream hurls its liquid treasure down a steep declivity 60 ft. and thence descends 300 ft. in rapids and cataracts, within 2 m.; forming a spectacle of *To this model sportsman we are indebted for essential information ren- dered regarding tills and other routes. ton the flight of Sir John Johnson and his followers through the pathless forest, from Johnstown to Canada in 1TT6, in which thej' experienced terrible hardships for 19 days and nearly perished from hunger, it Is said, that as he passed down the Kaquette, he noticed the futsdam sanastone piled up in beautiful regularity by nature with all the symmetry of art, along its banks, and predicted that a oily would be tivtll some any in the vicinity of that stone. More than thirty years afterwards he enquired of one from that place at Montreal, if any use had been made of that stone ledge.— Hough. POTSDAM ROUTE. RAQUETTE RIVER. 1 59 wildness and grandeur, that elicits the highest admiration of the spectator. It contains a thriving hotel, the "Empire Exchange," of whose superior accommodations and man- agement any country town in the State might be proud. The proprietors appreciate the wants of their guests and cater to their tastes in a courteous and satisfactory manner. The ample livery connected with the establishment is con- ducted with special reference to sporting parties. From Colton to South Colton ("Three Falls") on the Raquette, a lively little village, it is 4^ m.; thence to Stark's Falls (a charming cascade on the Raquette, of 40 ft.) at the foot of Little Bog it is 8 m. Here, at the "Forest House," the sportsman takes his first meal (always an excellent one) in the woods; here also boats are taken, and at this point the sporting field commences. This pleasant hotel possesses adequate facilities for supplying the wishes of transient customers or those who desire per- manent board while availing themselves of the attractions and advantages offered by the Bog and the surrounding ponds. Boats and guides can be engaged here at any time. (P. O., Stark, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y.) From the Forest House it is 2 m. N. E. by good road and path to Joe Indian P. (2 x i}4); so called from an eccentric Indian hunter named "Joe" who lived and died near its shores. It is a beautiful sheet abounding with large trout, and is also the frequent haunt of deer. Save a small clearing at the foot, the forest around is un- broken. A carry leads to W. Branch of St. Regis R., 3 m. S. of E. Several miles S. E. of Joe Indian P. is Kildare P.; and E. of that, perhaps 2 m., is Whitney Pond. Trout or Boulton P., lies near the main road, a short distance from the Forest House, N. W.; and N. of that is Berkley Pond. From Stark's Falls the journey is continued by boat or wagon at the traveler's option. Proceeding by land, a drive of 6)4 m. over a fair woods road, carries us to the "Jordan House," at the head of the Bog* •One should not be misled by this Inappropriate name, as these "bogs," so termed, are really beautiful sheets ot still water, bounded by richly wooded and flowery shores, with no swamps near them. l60 THE ADIRONDACK^. Continuing from Stark by water, a row of i ^ m. conveys us to Bog Falls, the termination of Little Bog. Crossing a portage of 10 r., (1.) easily accomplished (as the boat is drawn over on a track without being unloaded), we reach the Jordan House, at the head of Big Bog and near the mouth of Jordan River, by an easy row of 5 m. On the right are high banks, and in the distance elevated hills ; on the left is undulating lowland covered with small timber, and in the remote background tower the grand Adiron- . dacks. On this stretch of Stillwater occurs some of the best deer hunting found any where on the route, and this is popular camping-ground. The Jordan House is well kept, and persons not desiring to camp out, but to secure a boarding place in the heart of good sporting grounds, will find this a most desirable loca- tion. The table is invariably well laden with all the deli- cacies the water and forest produce, and each summer brings an increasing number of boarders. (P. O., Stark.) From here access is easily gained to several lakelets by taking a short tramp back from the river. Church P. {% x }{) 2% m. W., famous for deer, and a source of Grass R., (N. Branch) is reached by good path. Crooked P. (1 x j4), affording good "deering" and trouting, lies 3^ m. S. by road. (It is more conveniently reached from Ferry's.) Clear P. lies farther S. W. Nearly opposite the Jordan House, Jordan R. enters the Raquette, flowing from Jordan L, (2x1^)7 m. E. East and N. E. of that, are Otter, Willis, Blue, Rock, Midward, and other ponds. South of it are Deer and Windfall P's.; and W. and N. W. are Amber L, (1 m.), and Marsh, or Kildare P. Carry 3 m. N. E. to Potter P.; thence, 1 m. N. E. to McDonald P.; thence % m. N. to Elbow P.; thence }£ m. W. to Little Rock P. A large portion of the district embracing these waters, comprising four thousand acres of wild forest land, is in possession of the Vanderbilts and others of New York, forming the Kildare Club, who hold it as a grand sportsman's park, or preserve for their exclu- sive use. They have erected on Jordan L. a sumptuous "Hunting Lodge." Good road from here to Kildare Sta- tion, on Northern Adirondack R. R, 6 m. S. E. RAQUETTE RIVER ROUTE. 161 From Jordan House to Seavey's boat-landing, at the foot of Moosehead Stillwater, a "draw-by" of 8 m. succeeds, passing Rickey's Rapids, Jamestown Falls, Moody Falls and Percefield Long Rapids. The proprietor of Jordan House and Mr. S., hold themselves in readiness to trans- port parties and baggage over this road ; price, $4. Six and a half miles above Jordan House, and 2 m. from Moosehead, a road branches from this route which former- ly led to the head of Big Tupper L., conducting to Child- wold, Gale's and foot of Tupper Lake. Distance to the latter about 18 m. About midway between the Jordan House and Seavey's, (3% m. from Jordan House, 3 m. from Seavey's) on the main road, is located the Ferry House, where entertainment is furnished to a limited number, at moderate rates. Clear P, (^ x }{) (a handsome little lake), 1 m. W. of Ferry's, is reached by a path, passing Bear P. en route. Long P. lies W. of Clear Pond. Crooked Pond is but a few rods S. of Ferry's. Chandler P. (1 x y§), S. W. of Ferry's, is accessible by road, 1 m.; path, % m. The Windfall House, Johnson Seavey, proprietor, (P. O. Childwold), is pleasantly situated at the foot of Moosehead Mt. and near Jamestown Falls; a pretty cascade of 25 ft. on the Raquette. No better accommodations or table, are furnished anywhere on the route than at Seavey's. His prices are reasonable and his service excellent. Boats and camping outfits provided on order. By stage route it is 3 m. to Childwold, 6 m. to Gale's, 7 m. to Childwold Park, and i}4 m. by rough road to Raquette River. Near Seavey's (W.) is a small pond. Sampson P. (^ x yi), a wild and lonely sheet (reached by lumber road) famous for deer, bears and wolves, but not for trout, lies 3 m. from Seavey's (W.) on the track of the "Great Windfall." In the vicinity, N. and N. W., are Bear and Long P's, which, with Sampson, are sources of Grass River. West of Sampson P. 1% m. is a brook swarming with trout. 1 62 THE ADIRONDACKS. Leaving by boat the foot of Moosehead Stillwater (6% m. 1.) we have 4 m. of good navigation, passing on the way (3 m. up) the line of the "Great Windfall", embracing in the Wilderness, an area 50 m. long by )4 m. wide. This is the effect of one of the most remarkable tornadoes that ever visited this continent, which occurred on Sept. 20th, 1845, commencing in Upper Canada and extending 200 miles in a direct line, almost due east, to Lake Champlain, and following it to its foot. At 3 o'clock P. M. it was at Antwerp; at 5, on the Saranac ; and at 6, at Burlington, Vt. The work of destruction began one mile E. of Antwerp, and in its course through the forest it swept all before it, leaving a track of desola- tion half a mile wide, where nothing was left standing. It cut a swath as clean and well defined as if the work of a mower's scythe. Its ap- pearance was described by those who observed it at a little distance, as awfully sublime; being a cloud of pitchy blackness, from which vivid lightnings and deafening thunder incessantly proceeded. The air was filled to a great height with materials carried up from the earth, and branches torn from the trees. Torrents of rain and hail fell along the borders of the track, and much damage was done by lightning. It en- tered St. Lawrence Co. in Fowler, and crossed that town and Edwards, where it entered the uninhabited forest, and was not further witnessed. [Forest Arcadia.'] To resume, we then encounter about 50 r. of "quick water," succeeded by 2j^ m. of easy rowing, terminating at the foot of Hedgehog Rapids. The Moosehead Still- water is dotted here and there with many pretty islands, and as the river winds around and between numerous hills and mountains on either side, it presents a great variety of pleasing scenery. The forest grows luxuriantly to the water's edge, and is mirrored on its glassy surface. This Stillwater affords many agreeable camping grounds ;.long the dry and pleasant shores. The sportsman, too, will find his occupation successful here. From a point near the head, a good path leads r. 1 m. to Childwold, the little hamlet near Jock's P. (once famous for deer) and Moose- head Mt., 38 m. from Potsdam. At Hedgehog or Flat Rock Rapids occurs a portage of 50 r. (r.). Experienced guides, when the water has been low, have rowed up these rapids with great exertion; but the usual practice is to tow the boats or carry around them. Thence, after traversing Burnt Island Stillwater, |^ m. 1., we reach the "Piero," where we carry 1. 6 r. Passing over CHILDWOLD PARK. LAKE MASSAWEPIE. 163 60 r. of rapid water and the Blue Mt. (Matumbala) Still- water, 3 m. in extent with one little passage of quick water, we arrive at Gale's ("Downey's") Landing, W. side. The scenery along the portion of the route just passed is grand and beautiful. Some go so far as to say there is no finer river scenery in the State. Parties wishing to visit Gale's, Massawepie Lake (Child- wold Park) and the adjoining waters, leave the liver at "Downey's" Landing, and take the good road leading W. 1% m. to Catamount Pond. The Pond View House, Noah Gale, proprietor, (P. O. Gale, N. Y.), is delightfully situated on the banks of this pleasant little lake, and supplies every reasonable requisite; also boats and transportation. It is a quiet, agreeable and home-like resort, still retaining its old-time popularity. Entertainment is offered to 80 guests. As Gale has a pri- vate trout preserve (within 4 m. of the house by good car- riage-road), an ample supply of that dainty fish is always at command. His stage meets every train at Childwold Station on the Northern Adirondack R. R. (about 6 m.) and at station of the same name on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (about 5 m. distant). Lying in the immediate neighborhood of Pond View House, is a group of glittering lakelets, irresistibly attrac- tive to deer as well as sportsmen. A short passage across Catamount P. and thence over a portage of 60 rods W., takes us to Massawepie Lake, (3^ m. from the hotel) which, with its adjacent waters, is greatly admired for its various attractions. Childwold Park is most charmingly situated on Raquette River, among the foot-hills of the Adirondack Mountains. It consists of over 5,000 acres and embraces Massawepie — the fountain-head of Grass River — and a silvery chain of seven lochs and lochans. It is evident from the elevated shore-lines extending many miles in every direction, that Lake Massawepie was once vastly larger than it now is. That it was formerly the bottom of an archaic sea is conclu- sively proved by the wave-washed and rounded stones abounding on its present shores. The abutments of the huge fireplace in the magnifi- cent reception-room of the hotel were constructed entirely of these stones. 164 THE ADIRONDACK^ The site of Childwold Park House, on the elevated shore of this lake and 27 feet above its surface, has been bored to the depth of 60 ft. through pure sea-shore sand, without reaching the bottom of the depos- it. Sea-shells are freely intermingled with the sand. The Adirondack Mountains are believed to have been the first land that emerged from the Azoic Seas on this continent. That they buttressed the silent corri- dors of Time centuries before life was evolved on this earth, is very ap- parent. It is evident, also, that these mountains are substantially the same that they were during the great Ice Age ; for great numbers of aberrant boulder- rocks are found just as they were dropped from the retreating glaciers. Many of these, weighing from 100 to 1,000 tons, may be seen in Childwold Park and vicinity. One of the very largest is lodged on the oval top of a small, granite hill in the track of the "Great Wind- fall". As the summer guests stroll through the S. W. part of the Park, their attention is arrested by what seems to be an alley-way cut through the forest, on which a younger growth has come. This is the old Military Road made in 1812 for transporting our armies from Lake George to Lake Ontario or the St Lawrence. (See p. 112.) Now, the raven, that Ill-omened bird, as legends say, Which has the wondrous power to know While health Alls high the throbbing veins, The tatal hour when blood must flow,— croaks there, as he scans with hungry eyes the deer threading this soli- tary path on the way from Arab Mt. to slake his thirst in the clear, cold water of Burnt Bridge Pond, where a bridge once existed on this road, but was unfortunately burned many years ago. Many of the old cor- duroys — logs laid crosswise over the swamp — may still be seen in situ. This ancient highway, over which, some say, only one vehicle ever passed, continues on and on through the vast forest, skirting Pleasant Lake, the head-water of Dead Creek (a fine trout-stream) and Tupper Lake ; and from there on to Lake George. At the time the road was made, this great forest was the abode of the gigantic moose, or elk, — now extinct, to the everlasting shame of the State be it said, which should have protected them by stringent laws. It was reported in 1889 that two of these noble animals were seen making their solitary way through the North Woods ; but the report is not generally credited. The beaver, too, whose industry had so much to do with the lacustrine formation of this region, is also extinct, but the evidences of his industry are to be seen everywhere. From Lake Ontario to Lake Champlain, one is often asked, what aboriginal tribes, if any. inhabited this vast lake and mountain district. Their stone implements have been found on the sandy shores of Massa- wepie ; and bones have been unearthed — possibly those of savages, but more likely those of the civilized victims of their tomahawks. (See in- troduction.) There is an Indian legend that this region was once the habitat of a terribly ferocious animal, with claws as long as a person's fingers, which < s w < o K b H o X < 0. Q J O o s o ch:ldwold park house. 165 the aborigines called the to-ge-sho ("the naked bear"). It made an easy prey of all other animals, from the panther and the bear down ; and would follow the track of an Indian hunter by scent until overtaking and devouring him. It would also enter the wigwams and devour the women and children. War was made against this fell destroyer, until all but one were exterminated. Then the Indians (so the legend says) gathered on a rock by the shore of a lake that had an inlet from the north, and on outlet from the south — which describes Lake Massawepie — where they waited. Knowing that the beast would follow them (which he really did) they reckoned upon being able to kill him with their tomahawks as he attempted to spring upon the rock ; and were at length successful. They cut off his head and sent it to a tribe of sav- ages living on the Hudson River, where many other tribes came to see the monstrous thing. This legend was transmitted from one generation to another from be- fore the time that Columbus discovered this continent, and called the nation he found here 'Tndiaus", supposing that he had reached the true India. When Sir John Johnson, son of the redoubtable Sir William Johnson, and the reputed half-brother of the famous Indian warrior, Tha en-da- ne-ga — better known as Brandt — was suspected of disloyalty in 1777, Gen. Schuyler sent Col. Dayton to arrest him at his stronghold, Johns- town ; but having been warned by his Tory friends at Albany, he hasti- ly buried his valuable treasures in his court-yard, and escaped to Can- ada with a large following of Indians, by ascending the upper Hudson River to its head in the Adirondacks (within a stone's throw of the Raquette waters), and descending Raquette River to the St. Lawrence, by passes known only to his dusky scouts. This was in mid-winter ; and had not the St, Regis Indians sent him aid and supplies from Can- ada he must have perished in the Adirondack Wilderness. He was probably the first white man who visited these wooded solitudes. (See P. 158) All attractions of the Adirondack Region are combined in a rare degree at Childwold Park and supplemented by a fine hotel. The situation of this spacious and elegant hos- telry is elevated and delightful. It is nearly surrounded by natural forest trees, lending grateful shade and medi- cating the mountain air with aromatic fragrance. It com- mands an uninterrupted view of lovely Lake Massawepie, to the shores of which its extensive lawn gracefully inclines. The hotel was built in a very substantial manner, and is equipped with everything that can add to the comfort, con- venience and amusement of its patrons. A broad piazza encircles the building, offering 500 ft. of covered prome- nade. Large stone fireplaces enliven the parlor and office. 1 66 THE ADIRONDACKS. Half-a-dozen Queen Anne cottages, pleasantly located conveniently near, may be secured by those who prefer the greater retirement of cottage-life. Entertainment is pro- vided for 250 guests. The house is well established and numbers among its patrons the best class of tourists who visit the Adirondacks. Here they find a congenial, restful home. Here are united the luxuries of in-door life with the more exciting pleasures of out- door sports in the Park, the woods and on the lakes. Sporting is excellent, as deer, lake and brook-trout and bass are plentiful. Indeed there is a peculiar charm about the place which attracts the vis- itor from season to season. It is perfectly adapted to fam- ilies seeking a quiet retreat and rural life for their children. The little folks will find romping grounds here of great extent. As fog rarely appears on the lakes, and no marshes are near, there is absolute freedom from dampness and miasmatic influences. Malaria is unknown. The air is cool, dry and invigorating and victims of hay fever experi- ence immediate relief. As a health, as well as a pleasure, resort, a better location could hardly be found. A resident physician is always at command of those who may chance to require his services. The table is unsurpassed. It is supplied not only with the best delicacies that the large city markets afford, but with milk, cream, fresh eggs, poultry and vegetables from the large farm belonging to the Childwold estate ; also with game in the proper season. The establishment is under the personal supervision of Mr. Wm. F. Ingold, the accom- plished manager of the winter resort, Magnolia Springs Hotel, Florida. This should be sufficient guarantee that the Park House is admirably conducted, in all its details. In close proximity to the hotel is a fine sand beach, where safe bathing is enjoyed. A variety of charming drives, walks and boating excur- sions forms an especial attraction of Childwold Park. A good livery and a large fleet of boats furnish every requi- site for driving or boating. Guides are always obtainable at the hotel. ENVIRONS OF CHILDWOLD PARK. 167 Distances from Childwold Park House MILE. To Pond View House (on opposite side of Cata- mount Pond,) - N. E. 1 " Childwold Post Office, - - N. W. 3 j4 " Long Pond, - S. % " Horse Shoe Pond, - - S. W. i % " Boot Tree Pond, S. W. 2 " Deer Pond (or Egg Pond), - S. W. zj< " Town Line, - S. W. 3 " Pine Pond (or Outlet Pond), - W. 2 " Tupper Lake (near foot), (by Military Road ; trail, 5m) S. E. 7 " Tupper Lake (Tupper Lake House, near head), - E. of S. 14 " Center Pond, - S. 6 " Sardine Pond, - 6 "' Silver Lake (passing Panther and Trian- gle P's), - S. 6y 2 " Mt. Ma-tum-ba-la (Blue Mt), (traditional burying-place of the Indians) - E. 4 " Rolling Stone, - - N. 5 " Cranberry Lake, - W. 10 All the waters mentioned above except "Tupper," "Cran- berry," "Silver," "Panther" and "Triangle" (the last three named feeding Bog River), are sources of Grass River, (Ind., Ni-kent-si-a ke, "full of large fishes;" French, riviere de grasse, "fat, or fertile river," from the natural meadows near its mouth,) which, with its 3 branches, rising in the S. E. part of St. Lawrence Co., flows in a northerly direction to St. Lawrence River, and enters it opposite to Cornwall Island, Canada. This river is still the home of the trout. Its length may be 115 miles. It will be observed that it nearly touches Raquette River, (Ind., Ni-ha-na-wa-te, "racket, noisy, or sounding river." See Raquette Waters) their head-waters actually commingling in time of freshets. Cranberry Lake may be reached from Childwold Park House, as follows: — Boat down Grass River 4 m. to " The Dam;" thence stage 5^ to 7 m. to Harewood Park Hotel, if seasonable notice has been given. (See pp. 153, 156.) 1 68 THE ADIRONDACKS. Childwold Park is easy of access. From New York the traveler has a choice of two routes, viz: — New York Cen- tral R. R. to Herkimer; thence Adirondack & St. Law- rence R. R. to Childwold Station; thence Childwold Park stage to hotel, by good road, 5 m. Or, New York Central R. R. to Albany; D. & H. R. R. to Mooer's Junction via Plattsburg; (steamer might be taken if preferred on Lake Champlain from Ticonderoga to Plattsburg;) Central Vt. R. R. to Moira ; Northern Adirondack R. R. to Childwold Station ; thence Childwold P. stage to hotel, 7 m. By the Herkimer route vestibuled trains and buffet cars run from New York to Childwold Station without change. Childwold Park may also be reached from Plattsburg via Chateaugay R. R. to Upper Saranac Lake ; thence by Ad- irondack & St. Lawrence R R. as above. Tourists from the West should certainly follow the A. & St. L. line from Herkimer. Easy-riding carriages from Childwold Park House meet every train at the stations on either line. Tel- egraph office at the hotel and mails received daily. (P. O. Childwold, N. Y.) Leaving "Downey's," Landing on our way up the river (parties seldom travel the rough. sled-road to Setting Pole Reservoir Dam, 8 m.; usually preferring the water route), we immediately encounter Sol's Island Rapids, y 2 m. in extent including the "Upper" and "Lower Pitch," (2 falls of 8 and 14 ft.) where there are 2 portages of 20 r. (1.) and 10 r. (1.) respectively. The remainder of the rapids may be towed or rowed, according to the ability of the guides. Then succeeds 2%va. of comparative Stillwater, including Dead and Averill's or Black Rapids {% or ^ m. above Sol's Island Rapids), up which boats are rowed without much difficulty. Otherwise we carry (1.), J^ m. A grander exhibition is seldom witnessed in the woods than that which the tourist finds in Percefield High Falls, (Ind., "Leap of the Foaming Panther") as seen in the dis- tance when turning a bend in the river at the head of Av- erill's Rapids, 1 m. below. Over a rugged ledge the Ra- quette fiercely sweeps to a granite shelf below, where the water is thrown up in finest spray or maddened foam , thence it leaps to another shelf, from which it pours a seeth- o X r a $ o r D > X o c TUPPER LAKE VILLAGE. 169 ing mass into the agitated depths beneath. The river falls in sheer descent 35 ft., and forms the most picturesque bit of scenery surveyed on the entire route. Here is a hard carry up the face of the rock and over the steep bank, of 15 r. (1 ). Then follows }( or }4 m. of Stillwater, succeeded by Fish Hawk Rapids, covering a distance of about 50 r., through or around most of which boats must be towed, or carried, r. Thence there is a Stillwater, extending 2^/2 or 3 m. to Setting Pole Rapids — a romantic reach of foaming water— where there is a portage of % m. (1.). This was the favorite camping-place of the distinguished angler, the late lamented George Dawson of the. Albany Journal, before the glory of the Raquette above this point had departed. Of the Reservoir Dam at Setting Pole Rapids, he said : — "The high water thus caused is working great mischief in all this region. It has produced the overflow of tens of thousands of acres. The result will be that the beauty of the Raquette, once one of the most lovely streams in America, and its connecting lakes will be marred by the destruction of the beautiful evergreens and maples which line their banks, and which have rendered them so wonderfully attractive and picturesque. But this is not all. The receding waters in midsummer must leave this whole region a reeking mass of decaying vegetation, fill- ing the air with fever-exciting miasma, and making a sojourn in the midst of it exceedingly hazardous. Its effects are already seen in the thousands of dead trees which mar the beauty of the river's banks, and the coming seasons will demonstrate its pernicious influence upon the comfort and health of visitors, and the scattered residents upon its borders. Anglers are chiefly aggrieved by this obstruction to the free flow of the water, because it has destroyed several favorite trout haunts." This prediction has been fulfilled to the letter. From Reservoir Dam to Raquette Pond it is 2 m. ; through this pond 2 m.; up Raquette River to Big Tupper Lake 2 m. Thus the distance from Potsdam to this lake is about 58 or 60 m. From the bosom of the forest, on the sloping shores of the E. side of Raquette Pond, a bustling village has sud- denly sprung into existence. This is called Tupper Lake — P. O. the same — and it is the terminus of the Northern Adirondack R. R. Within 1 5^ or 2 m. of this point is Tupper Lake Junction, where the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. intersects the former line. Stages meet 15 170 THE ADIRONDACKS. every train at this station and convey travelers to Tupper Lake Village, whence steamers are taken for Mt. Morris House, Moody's Redside Camp, or Tupper Lake House, the three hotels on Tupper Lake ; or stage for The Waw- beek, on Upper Saranac Lake, 9 m. distant. Although Tupper Lake Village occupies the banks of a sheet once very beautiful, formerly bearing the sweet name of "Lough Neak," {2% x %) the scenery now is greatly impaired by the "drowned lands of the Adirondacks," whose dead tim- ber presents an unsightly appearance to the eye. A pleas- ing vi^w is here obtained of Marcy, Whiteface, Seward and other summits of the Adirondack Range. "Capt. Peter's Rocks" rise from the water near the foot. It is related that Capt. Peter, father of Mitchell Sabattis — a famous sire of a famous son — in former times made a practice of secreting his game and traps among these granite masses; and here he made his famous leap to the shore — good 16 feet. Great activity is manifested in the village, and it is destined to become a large and important town. Lumbering is the principal interest. Several hotels and stores offer every needed accommodation. There are numerous lakes and ponds besides those al- ready named on either side of the river, scattered along be- tween Stark's Falls and Tupper Lake, easily accessible from the route and perfectly adapted to sporting purposes. The Raquette also receives numerous tributaries, which afford good fishing during the summer months. Mountain Brook, entering from the E. below Sol's Island Rapids, and Dead Creek on the opposite side about 5 m. above (3 m. from Gale's), are especially noted for the size and quantity of the trout they yield. The stillwaters, as well as the neighboring ponds, offer prime deer hunting. This river ride is really delightful. The stream, fre- quently decked with pond lilies, and interspersed as it is with islands, and varied by frequent falls and rapids, pre- sents to the admirer of nature a succession of enchanting scenes. The graduated unevenness of its mountain scen- ery, and the abrupt, ever-changing appearance of its shores, together with the varying colors of the forest foliage, afford 01 •o W o K r w a H ffl O G H 2 P O a F D 5: O P D > ogdensburg. {See next page.) 171 the lover of the beautiful, ample compensation for the la- bors of his journey.* It should be stated that Raquette R. itself no longer affords any trout-fishing. Pickerel were put into Big Tupper Lake years ago, and they have driven the trout from this stream. But its inlets and the adjacent ponds furnish ample and superior trouting. Black bass were also placed in Tupper L. several years since and begin to man- ifest themselves in quantities, and of good size, all along this river. Although the "speckled beauties" are banished from the Raquette, the game qualities of the bass, and the abundance of the pickerel, partially compensate for the loss. From Potsdam, Concord coaches run daily to South Col- ton (Lindsay House), 13^ m.; fare, $1. Thence stage Monday, Wednesday and Friday to Stark, 21^ m.; fare, $1.75; Seavey's, 35 m., fare, $2.75; Childwold, 38 m., $3; Gale's, 41 m., $3 25 ; and Childwold Park. House, 41^ m., fare, $3. 35 ; returning on alternate days. The establishment of this mail line, with private mail boxes all along the route, affords excellent facilities for getting letters and papers at any given point. And the accommodation of the "unlicensed carrier," enables "camp- ers-out" to have their dailies with their deer, and to ex- change camp items for home news. {This stage will prob- ably be withdrawn!) To reach the most important points on the Potsdam route, tourists generally take the cars on the Northern Adiron- dack R. R., or the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Rail- way, enabling them to make these excursions in absolute comfort. (See Routes Nineteenth and Twentieth, FROM MOIRA AND MaLONE.) * To Hon. A. B. Hepburn of Canton, N. Y., we are greatly Indebted for di- rect aid rendered and written memoranda used In the description of the Potsdam route. 172 THE ADIRONDACKS. Seventeenth .— OgdensburgJ — named from Sam'l Ogden, under whose auspices settlement was made here in 1796 — is situated on the St. Lawrence on a beautiful plain near the mouth of Oswegatchie R. The confluence of these waters forms a safe and commodious harbor at the foot of sloop navigation. The position of this frontier city, which is a port of entry and delivery, cannot be overestimated. It is a prosperous place, possessing important commercial and manufacturing advantages; the Oswegatchie furnish- ing immense water-power to its various factories. Several steamboat companies connect it with the commerce of the St. Lawrence and great lakes The Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain, and Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg rail- roads terminate here, making it a depot of great import- ance. The structures of the former are on a magnificent scale, while the various streets are adorned with many ele- gant residences. Nearly a mile of wharves extend along the river, with, a grain elevator of the largest size at one extremity. A steam ferry connects these roads with the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific railways, at Pres- cott, which lies on the opposite side of the river, here 1% m. broad. Ogdensburg was anciently the site of an Indian village styled Swa- gatch, or Soegasti (Ind., Swe kat-si, "black water ;" the Oswegatchie — pronounced, Os-we-gotch ee — having formerly been entitled, Black River). As the O-swa-gatch tribe regarded themselves as the "fag-ends" (nalte) of the Iroquois, this village was called, "the tail of the Five Nations." (Dr. Hough.) In 1749 through the efforts of Abbe Francis Picquet, the celebrated French Sulpitian Missionary, a Catholic mission named La Presentation, was established here. This became an im- portant military station, from which the French sent their war parties to ravage the feeble back settlements of N. Y. and Penn. The ruins of the fortress erected by them, (Fort La Presentation) still remain. And Chimney Island (Ind., O-ra co-nen-ton ; French, Isle Royal) 3 m. down the St. Lawrence, also displays the ruins of Fort Levi, constructed by the French in 1759. This island has been the repeated scene of unsuc- cessful money digging. On the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence may be observed the remains of the stone wind-mill, the scene of an heroic defence during the Rebellion of 1837, maintained by a small band of patriots, (under the leadership of the unfortunate Polander, Van Shoultze, who had fought for the freedom of his native land, and wit- t Ogdensburg, Massena Springs ana House's Point, though not strictly "gateways" to the Wilderness, are classed as such, lor the Information of Canadian tourists. MASSENA SPRINGS. I 73 nessed her expiring agony at ill-fated Moscow), against a far superior British force. The principal hotels of Ogdensburg are the Seymour and Windsor Houses. Tourists bound for the Adirondacks proceed from here by railroad to Potsdam, 31 m.; Brasher Falls, 36 m.; Moira, 47 m.; Malone, 61 m.; Chateaugay, 73 m ; Plattsburg, 127 miles. Eighteenth: — Massena Springs (Ind., Kan-a-swa-stak-e- ras, "where the mud smells bad") are situated on the verge of Raquette River, directly above what was formerly termed Lay's Fall, and 1 m. from Massena Village,* located on Grass R.f (White's model Hotel ) These waters (con- sisting of 5 springs, not essentially different in their proper- ties, of which "St. Regis" is the most important) have ac- quired a wide reputation for their medicinal qualities, and this celebrity is rapidly increasing. The early surveyors noticed them in 1799, when a copious volume of clear, cold water was thrown up, strongly charged with sulphur; and the earth around trodden into a mire-hole by deer and moose, which frequented the spot on account of the saline qualities of the water. It is said that horses and cattle pre- fer this to any other water. The Indians here found an abundance of game at all seasons, and vague traditions ex- ist, that they used the waters medicinally. {Dr. Hough.) They have been most employed for cutaneous diseases, dyspepsia, rheumatism and chronic diarrhcea, for which they are regarded as specific. The surroundings of the springs are extremely beautiful, and the climate in this locality is very healthful. There are other attractions besides the springs. To the piscatorial tourist this section is full of interest. A finer fishing-center can hardly be found. Here he is within striking distance of three rivers which furnish fish in great variety and profusion, including bass, pickerel and the celebrated masq'allonge. Putting his boat in the love- * Named In honor of Marshal Massena, the celebrated French general. t Grass and Raijuette Rivers, here ot about equal volume, ruu nearly par- allel lor many miles above and below, and enter the St. Lawrence opposite Cornwall Island. 174 THE ADIRONDACKS. ly Raquette, he can pass to the St. Lawrence (12 m.), shooting like an arrow down the exciting but not danger- ous rapids that intervene ; thence up the St. Lawrence (3 m.) (or much farther if he desires) ; thence up Grass River to the dam (8 m.), which is only 1 m. below White's Hotel, at Massena Village — a short mile from the springs. What a delightful trip for a day. The Long Sault Rapids, one of the most attractive scenes on the St. Lawrence, 4 m. from here, can be run safely with small boats ; and in the eddies below is the finest of masq'allonge fishing. The Long Rapids on the Raquette, 9 m. below the springs, are the special haunts of legions of white fish rarely found else- where in the vicinity. Trout also are caught in the neigh- borhood. Up Earl Creek a short distance, which empties into the river 4 m. above these rapids, in May, 1874, the late David J. Mitchell, of Syracuse, captured 118 bass, 2 pickerel and t pike — averaging over 2 lbs. each — in 3 or 4 hours' fishing. Similar examples, illustrating the fruitful- ness of these streams, might be multiplied to any extent. The long-established Harrowgate House still remains very popular with the old habitues of this resort. The springs are located on the beautifully sloping and shaded grounds of the hotel, and are owned by the proprietors of this establishment. On the opposite side of the street, stands the large and elegant structure known as the Hatfield House, where, in all its' appointments, the tourist will find everything that constitutes a first-class hotel. Its grounds and gardens elicit the admiration of every visitor. From the Springs stages run daily, via Massena Village to Dodge's Landing on the St. Lawrence, (4 m.; fare 50 cts.) where steamers may be taken which pass through the Thousand Islands, or down the rapids of this river. The railroad from Norwood to Massena Springs, (15 m.) (con- necting with the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R. at the former point) and thence to Fort Covington, was long since completed. This important railway gives the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R. direct connection with the Grand Trunk Line, and forms a most desirable route from various western points to Massena Springs, Montreal and Quebec. MOIRA. NORTHERN ADIRONDACK R. R. 175 DIVISION II. INTO THE ST. REGIS AND CHATEAUGAY WOODS. The impression usually entertained, that the St. Regis and Chateaugay portion of the Northern Wilderness has been so far encroached upon by settlements as to be un- worthy of consideration as a resort for sportsmen, is in the main incorrect. Indeed, so far is this from being true, that even the "happy hunting grounds of the Saranac" are not superior for sporting purposes to the once famed woods of the "Shatagee."* The usual points of entrance to this section are Moira, Malonef and Chateaugay, stations on the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R., and Platts- burg, the S. terminus of the Plattsburg & Montreal R. R. (Now Delaware 6° Hudson R. R.. to Rouse's Point.) Nineteenth : — Moira (Junction House) received its pre- tentious name from the English Earl of Moira. This little village suddenly became very prominent owing to the con- struction of the Northern Adirondack R. R., which starts from this point. The present southern terminus of this line is Tupper Lake Village, situated on Raquette Pond, 3 m. below Big Tupper Lake. This route is one of the most comfortable by which the Adirondacks can be visited, as the cars convey the traveler well into the heart of that region. The distances from Moira to the following stations are as follows : Dickinson Center, 8 m.; St. Regis Falls, 12 m.; Santa Clara, 18 m.; Spring Cove, 23 m.; Brandon, 34 m.; Blue Pond, 43 m.; Kildare Station, 47 m.; Childwold Station, 51 m.; Tupper Lake Junction, 54 m.; Tupper Lake Village, 56 m. The district thus made accessible, though largely en- croached upon by the vast lumbering enterprise of Messrs. Hurd & Hotchkiss, (succeeded by John Hurd) who con- *&»~The Iraaitwnal name ol all this section— including Meacham Lake- was Chateaugay or "Shatagee." t Malone Is the northern terminus of the Adirondack & St. Law. E. K. I 76 THE ADIRONDACKS. trol 50,000 to 75,000 acres within its limits, is generally of the wildest character and still offers fine sport. The attention of the public was first attracted in this direction by the history of "Spring Cove Cottage," given in an edition of this book in 1875. The "Cottage" (a forest- inn located on St. Regis R.) was the residence of the well known guide and woodsman, "Den" Smith, who was in- duced to locate here by the condition of his wife's health. Mrs. S., who had suffered from hereditary lung disease, ag- gravated by scrofula in throat and stomach, for upwards of sixteen years, was almost miraculously cured by a sojourn of two seasons in this locality. And Mr. Smith has recent- ly reported to us, (March, 1893) that his wife still enjoys good health.* Other well authenticated instances of remarkable cures wrought by a season of camp life passed in this section, might be given would space permit ; and would serve to prove the salubrity, and peculiar curative charactistics of this particular portion of the Great Wilderness, whose pure mountain air, medicated by the healing aroma of the ever- greens has generally a magical effect on wasting lungs ; steeling the susceptibility of the system to hay-fever and catarrhal affections also. ' Spring Cove Cottage," long since abandoned, is a mat- ter of the past ; but at "Den Smith's" pleasant resort near Dickinson Center, those who adopt that location for their outing will find home-like quarters, and the most whole- some fare. The table is supplied with the products of his farm as well as the woods, and every attention is paid to his guests. Mr. Smith, when desired, accompanies sports- men who wish to camp on the sequestered East Branch of the St. Regis, 7 m. distant ; affording boating for 12 m., in- terrupted by only one carry of half-a-mile. He also fur- nishes them with all the requisite supplies on the most rea- sonable terms. As a guide, woodsman and intelligent com- * This should he noted by unbelievers, who so fiercely condemn Mr. Mur- ray's account ol the consumptive young man, "whom the Wilderness re- ceived almost a corpse, hut which returned him to his home and the world as happy and healthy a man as ever bivouacked under Its pines." Those suffering from phthisis are strongly advised not to delay a visit too long ; as permanent benefit Is most readily received In the incipient stage. LAKE OZONIA. CRESTWOOD HALL. 177 panion, the Wilderness has few superiors; and we most con- scientiously recommend him and his good wife to the in- valid in pursuit of health, or the sportsman seeking the pleasures the forest affords. Near "Den'' Smith's," on the banks of the crystal trout- stream, Zina Brook, outlet of Baker P.. stands the pictur- esque summer retreat of Henry E. Russell, of New York. The "North West Bay Road," constructed in the war of 1812 through the wilderness from Westport, on Lake Champlain, to Sackett's Harbor, on Lake Ontario, (Ind., O-non-ta-ri-io, "handsome lake,") passes 4 m. S. of Dickin- son Center, and through Santa Clara. It is difficult to trace but little of its course. Six miles S. W. of St. Regis Falls (Waverly House) is Lake Ozonia, formerly known as Trout Lake (3 x %), charmingly set in the midst of forest-grown heights, gently rising from the pebbly shores. A sand-rimmed beach, many moss-clad rocks, several leaf-locked bays, with their secluded nooks, and three small islands lying like emeralds on its bosom, add so many charms to the loveliness of the scene. Unlike many of the Adirondack lakes, civilization has not yet robbed it of its pristine beauty, as the environ- ing wilderness remains unscarred by the woodman's axe.* Numerous springs, mountain-born, feed its crystal waters which are stocked with bass and salmon-trout. Superior hunting and fishing-grounds in the vicinity offer fine oppor- tunities to sportsmen. Choice bathing-places, with sandy bottoms, are found in the lake in various directions. The outlet flows into East Brook or Branch, a tributary of St. Regis River. Crestwood Hall is delightfully situated on the western shore, and commands a fascinating view of distant moun- tain-peaks. This hotel consists of a central structure — rustic and unique — connected with a number of cosey little cottages, offering the privacy and comforts of home-life. The sanitary arrangements are modern and perfect. This establishment is admirably furnished and managed ; and * Tlie surrounding forest is virgin and unbroken, excepting a small clear- ing at the E. end of tlie lake— where an ancient hunter has his rude abode— and a little piece ol ground on one ol the shores, once burned over, but now covered with thrifty aspen-trees, 30 ft. high. 178 THE ADIRONDACKS. with its accessibility and the neighboring attractions, may well be considered a lovely and desirable resort. It is most conveniently reached from St. Regis Falls (6 m.), by stage; fare 75 cts. or $[.00. It can also be visited by private conveyance from Brasher Falls on the Ogdens- burg & Lake Champlain R. R. via Hopkinton (7 m.); whence it is 8 m. to Lake Ozonia. (P. O., St. Regis Falls, N. Y.) West of Lake Ozonia 1 % m. is Mud P., where the hunter frequently secures^ deer. About % m. E. of the foot of Lake Ozonia lies East P. East Branch P. or Dexter L. is 3 m. E. of Lake Ozonia,. whence it is 1 m. S. E. to Goose P. From the latter it is 7 m. S. by road to Blue Mt. House, near St. Regis River. Four miles S. W. of Spring Cove, at the base of Azure Mt. (formerly known as Blue Mt.*) and near West Mt. is located the Blue Mt. House, (P. O., Santa Clara, N. Y.) which is a quiet summer retreat for visitors to this section, though it is as yet but little known to the sporting frater- nity. It is highly recommended for its ample size, good beds and table and general accommodations. A convey- ance runs daily to connect with the cars at Spring Cove ; fare, 75 cts, From this pleasantly situated hotel a delight- ful prospect is enjoyed of a broad expanse of forest extend- ing upwards of 50 m.; the grand peak of Essex Co., White- face; De Bar Mt. near Meacham L., and numerous other lofty pinnacles in the N. £. and S. E. As a sporting cen- ter this house has few equals, and it is destined to become a popular resort. There are a number of picturesque ponds in the neighborhood of easy access, where excellent fishing is found. Duck (^£ x Yz) and Spring P's, lying J^ m. apart, about 3 m. N. E , are reached by road. To Goose P. it is 7 m. N., and to East Branch P. or Dexter L. (1 x 3/1) 8 m. by road; the latter being 1 m. N. W. of the former, and 3 m. W. of Santa Clara. With the en- vironing lands, it is the private property of O. P. Dexter, * From Blue Mt. House to the summit 01 Mt. Azure, It is ljtf m. by good path. MIDDLE ST. REGIS RIVER. 179 of New York, who has erected an elegant summer residence on its pleasant shores. West of East Branch P. about 3 m. is Lake Ozonia. (See P- r 77 ) McCavenaugh P. (i}4 x j£), a fine deer resort, is 3 m. W. of Blue Mt. House. The route passes Mud P. 2^ m. W. Train P. is 3 m. S. W. of McCavenaugh P. Beyond that, 34 m - w - is Weller P.; and 3/i m. W. of S. of the latter is Arquet L. These are all reached by carries. Ben's or Den's P., overshadowed by Rice Mt., is 3 m. S. E. of the hotel. Wolf P. 8^ m. S. W. of the hotel (Twin Ponds about midway), is reached by a rough sled-road. At this wild and rarely visited place, deer, bears and panthers were formerly found, An abundance of trout may be taken from the upper branches of Parishville River, a tributary of the West St. Regis, in close proximity to this little lake. The country in every direction for many miles is an unbroken wilderness in which lie nameless ponds and streams un- known even to the general guide. (In Vilas Preserve.) Long P., another wildly secluded sheet, lies about 3 m. S. of E. of Wolf P. and 2% m. W. of St. Regis River. Marsh and Mud P's lie N. of Wolf Pond. To the Middle St. Regis River, which is the St. Regis proper, it is % m. E. from the hotel. To the lovers of trout and deer we cheerfully commend this stream. For excellent fishing it is unsurpassed, as its bed is filled with deep spring-holes, and the angler has 30 m. or more of the stream in which to cast a line — rapids and Stillwater alter- nating. The boat landing is at the foot of the "Three Mile Rapids," and here the fisher seldom fails to experience the satisfaction resulting from perfect success. Passing down the "Four-Mile Stillwater," (not very good boating) we encounter rapids again. Around these, boats must be car- ried yh m. We have now reached the Humphrey Nine- Mile Level, which affords good navigation for that distance, passing many springs and brooks on the way, where speckled trout are frequently found. Santa Clara (Santa Clara House) 180 THE ADIRONDACKS. a pleasant little hamlet with delightful surroundings, is located at the foot of this Stillwater, and on the N. A. R. R. These river routes should ordinarily be selected by those in search of rest or recreation, and who desire to leisurely "paddle their own canoes," as but little exertion is required in following them. But the boast of this locality is the "Sixteen- Mile Level" on the St. Regis, beginning 3 m. above (S. E.) the Blue Mt. House. This grand secluded reach of boatable Stillwater furnishes some of the best trout fishing and deer hunting the entire region offers. Three miles up the Level, Quebec Brook, with 2 mouths, the outlet of Madawaska and Quebec P's, enters the river, E. The former sheet, famous for deer and large trout, 5 m. up the stream, may be reached by boat, if we carry half the way. It is said that many years since an old Indian bearing the name of "Quebec" followed the outlet of Quebec to the St. Regis and there planted on the banks an ash tree, still standing and of large size, which originated the name.* One m. S. W. of Madawaska P., is Otter Pond, a great duck resort. From Madawaska P. we carry 2 m. S. E. to Quebec P. (the stream connecting them being unnavigable), and thence 1 m. S. to Folingsby Jr. P., which is only 3 m. by road from Paul Smith's, S. E. Wolf P. {No. 2) lies about 2 m. N. E. of Madawaska P. In the vicinity rise Madawaska and Rice Mts. Four and one-half m. farther up the Level (from Quebec Brook), the outlet of Twin P's, but a short distance W. discharges into the river. This is called "Trout Hole." About midway of the Level (8 m.) the noted "Indian" or "Peter's Rock" is reached. Near this are several singular mounds, believed to be burial places of the Indians. This is a popular camping place — the stronghold of both deer and trout. Three miles above this point, ("Buck Mt. Camp") a car- ry leaves the river (r.) for Long P. (2 x ij4) 2^ m. W. This important sheet, encompassed by evergreens, lying * "Quebec" is said to have been "Capt." Peter Sabattis, father of the fa- mous Mitchell sabattis. THE SIXTKEN-MILE LEVEL. 1 81 near Buck Mt., is a source of the West Branch of St. Regis River. A fine camping site is found on the W. shore in a handsome balsam grove, with a cold spring near. Lying in this vicinity is Martin Pond. Three miles N. of W. of Long P. is Wolf P. (See p. 179) South of Long P., perhaps ij^ m., is Whitney P.; named after the efficient guide, woodsman and surveyor, Cyrus Whitney. South W. of that are Elbow, Little Rock, Chuck, Potter and McDonald Ponds. (See p. 160.) From Whitney's P. we carry 2 m. S. of E. to Cranberry P., from which it is 2 m. N. to Long P. and 2 m. E. to Bay P. by carry. The solitudes embracing Long, Whitney, McDonald and Cranberry P's are seldom disturbed, and hence the sporting is of unqualified excellence. ( The most of this section be- longs to the Vilas Preserve.) Twelve and one-half miles up the Sixteen Mile Level, we pass through an expansion of the stream styled River P.; and 1 m. above this the carry starts (r.) for Bay P., 21^ m. S. W.; passing Bear P. (1^ m.) en route. From here by road it is it m. S. of E. to Paul Smith's; and from Brandon Station, on N. A. R. R., located near the river N. E. of Bear or Dodge P., it is 7 m. by stage to the same resort. In the vicinity, W. and S. W. of Brandon, are Mud and Black Ponds. Resuming the journey, we immediately pass the outlet of Folingsby Jr. P., and soon, at the end of the Sixteen Mile Level, make a portage of % m ; then pass through 2 m. of Stillwater ; carry again \ m.; thence row 2 m. to Keese's Mills, where we carry J^ m. From here we have uninter- rupted navigation 3 m. to Paul Smith's. Total distance from Blue Mt. House, 27! m. To sum up all, this locality may be regarded as peculiar- ly adapted to the wants of invalids in pursuit of health ; and lovers of the chase or of piscatorial sports, will usually be satisfied with their experiences here. But, to secure these privileges, application for "Permits" must be made to 16 182 THE ADIRONDACK^. the "Santa Clara Lumber Co.," which owns the larger portion of this district. Small compensation required. St. Regis River (Ind , Ak-wissas-ne, "where the partridge drums") with its three branches has its source in a cluster of lakes and ponds lying in Franklin Co., in the immediate vicinity of the headwaters of the Saranac system. It flows in a course nearly parallel with that of Oswegatchie, Grass and Raquette Rivers. Of all these Wilderness streams, this is the very least known and the most rarely followed. Through a densely wooded region of wildness and solitude, where the foot of man has seldom pressed, it pursues its serpentine course until emerging at last from the forest's solemn shades, it enters the smiling meadows of the "North- ern Tier," and passes onward toward its final resting place, through the noble St. Lawrence. Brandon, on the Northern Adirondack R. R. (Bay Pond House), is within 7 m. of the famous hostelry at St. Regis Lake, (Paul Smith's) to which coaches run on arrival of the principal trains, there connecting with stage and boat lines running to all the principal resorts in the Wilderness. At Brandon, stage is also taken for Meacham Lake House, 12 m. {See Route Twentieth from M alone, and p. 186.) From Blue Pond Station, Saranac Inn, located at the head of Upper Saranac Lake, 7^ m., can be reached by private conveyance. Stage has been discontinued. It would be preferable, however, to change cars at Tupper Lake Junction, as named herewith. It would be still more desirable, to visit that famed resort from Malone, via thl Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (See p. 185.) From Kildare Station, a carriage-road leads 6 m. to the Kildare Club House, at Jordan Lake. (See Page 160.) At Childwold Station, stages await every through train, and convey passengers to Gale's Pond View House, 6 m.; and Childwold Park House, 7 m. (See Page 163.) At Tupper Lake Junction, tourists bound for Saranac Inn, should leave this line and take cars on the Adiron- dack & St. Lawrence R. R. for that station, 15 m. dis- tant. (See Page 169.) VILAS PRESERVE. 1 83 From Tupper Lake Village, travelers are conveyed by stage 9 m. to The Wawbeek, near foot of Upper Saranac Lake; also, by steamer through Raquette Pond, i m.; Raquette River, 2 m; and Big Tupper Lake, 6% m. to Tupper Lake House, and intermediate points. (See page 169.) vilas preserve. Few persons are aware of the large number of tracts, from a few hundred to a hundred thousand acres in extent in this region triat are being withdrawn for the purposes of private "Game and Fish Preserves", chiefly for the use of clubs aid associations. Among the larger of these, some 50,000 acres, situated in St. Lawrence and Franklin Counties in the St. Regis Valley, is the "Vilas Preserve." It was the second in order in this vicinity, the Kildare Club adjoining, having preserved some 4,000 acres a few years before. For years, many of its lakes and streams have justly been noted for the excellent hunting and fishing they afforded. Until 1880 none except the veteran hunter pentrated into its wilds. Then the Northern Adirondack Railway opened the valley to Brandon or Paul Smith's Station, some four miles east of this tract ; but the almost entire absence of wagon-roads still made it a very difficult place to reach. In 1890 the railroad was continued to Tupper Lake, near the center of the Adirondacks. The result of the continuation was to carry on beyond, the tide of sporting travel and also to open up four to five hundred thousand acres of wilder- ness that was before well nigh inaccessible. Up to 1890 there had been no turnpike up this valley ; and at this time, before the sporting public could become acquainted with the country, it was surveyed, posted and established as a private "Game and Fish Preserve." It has since been well protected and a few parties under "Permits" have been allowed to spend a short period, hunting and fishing during the season. The general character of the country is level, cut up by numerous hard wood ridges, which in the St. Lawrence Co. portion, are more pronounced and sharp. 184 THE AD1RONDACKS. In the northeast corner of township 16 are Buck Moun- tain and a few ridges. Along the north line of south half of township 12 (Riversdale) is a succession of small moun- tains ("County," "Weller," "Spawningbed," "Sheldon," and "Hamilton"). Few tracts in the Adirondacks are so well watered by brooks and rivers. Two branches of the St. Regis run diagonally through it, being from two to five miles apart in their course and furnishing 56 miles of navigable water. The lakes are small, but are ideal fishing and feeding-grounds and famous for deer. Until this tract is absorbed by some Game an.d Fish Club, "Permits" may be obtained for a consideration, to hunt and fish upon it. Information, maps, etc., will be furnished on application by E. A. Carpenter, 7 Linnean St., Cambridge, Mass. Twentieth: — Malone,* (Ind., Te-kan-o-ta-ron-we, "a vil- lage crossing a river") the shire-town of Franklin Co., is the most important station on the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R., {Central Vermont R. H.) and the north- ern terminus of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Rail- way. It is finely situated on both sides of Salmon River, (furnishing here great water power) 61 m. from Ogdensburg and 57 from Rouse's Point. It is a very flourishing village, in the center of a rich agricultural country. Its principal streets are broad and pleasant, being ornamented by many handsome public and private structures. The scenery surrounding the place is very interesting. About 4 m. W. are several veins of magnetic iron ore, and 1 m. S. is an extensive quarry of Potsdam limestone. * First named "Harrison," from Blch. Harrison, original proprietor of tlie surrounding lands ; and afterwards Malone from a family related to him. Note.— To Christie E. Fay, the proficient artist of Malone, we are under great obligations for his valuable assistance, and also for written materials descriptive of this district, furnished by him. THROUGH THE GREAT FOREST FROM MALONE. 185 Distances from Malone to Herkimer, and intermediate points, via Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railroad. MILES. To Mountain View, ("State Dam") J 3 l( Loon Lake, . 2 S (( (t Lake Kushaqua, (Round Pond) Rainbow Lake, - 29 34 It Paul Smith's Station, i^A u Lake Clear, (Junction Saranac Branch ) 4i*A (C Saranac Inn Station, . 44?2 Tupper Lake Junction, Childwold Station, 59^ 66 tf Horseshoe Pond, 73^ (t Bog Lake, Ne-ha-sa-ne, (Private Station) - 82^ 86 if Little Rapids, (Private Station) Beaver River, - 93 95% it a Big Moose, Fulton Chain, ("Arnolds.") - 104 "5 if a McKeever, (Moose River) Otter Lake, - 123^ 125^ a White Lake, - . J 3° J A it Forestport, Honnedaga, Remsen, - - 141^ 145^ if (1 Prospect, Trenton Falls, - M7^ J 49/^ it Herkimer, i73 From Malone, a few hours' ride by road, or a few min- utes by rail, will carry the traveler to some of the finest sections for sport as well as scenery, existing anywhere within the boundaries of the Adirondacks. In this direc- tion the woods and waters have not been so thoroughly cleared of fish and game as in the wilderness farther south. Notwithstanding the construction of the A. & St. L. R. R., parties occasionally visit Paul Smith's from this point, by special conveyance, and generally express themselves highly pleased with the route. The road is in excellent condition now, as a large amount of money and work have 1 86 THE ADIRONDACKS. been expended upon it within the last few years. The dis- tance from Malone to Meacham Lake is 25 m.; and 12 m. farther S. are the St. Regis waters and the "St. James" of the Wilderness, Paul Smith's. And what a delightful route it is — through a most picturesque region, just uneven enough for variety ; the road thickly shaded on either side by magnificent forest trees. At intervals we pass beautiful woodland lakes and ponds, into whose clear waters we are tempted to drop a hook, as we observe the mirrored sur- face broken into a thousand ripples, by the "speckled beauties'' darting after flies. Meacham Lake, one of the most important of the St. Regis waters, is about 3 m. in length, and varies from \% to 2 m. in width. It is bounded on nearly all sides by charming mountain ranges, and its three handsome sand beaches (which altogether form half of its circumference), but increase its manifold attractions. In the words of "Haviland," "we know of no finer landscape or scenery, than that presented by Meacham Lake and its surroundings as viewed from Carpenter Hill. When we first beheld this sheet rippling softly in the sunlight, it lay before us, one burnished sheet of liquid gold. A cloudless blue sky hung over mountain and forest, the clear atmosphere bringing into bold relief all the mountain glimpses for which this lovely lake is so justly celebrated. Debar Mountain (5^ m. distant and ascended from this lake), a savage looking peak, standing sentinel on the left, leads the scene ; St. Regis Mountain, due S., shows its blue summit, in the air, while numberless other less noted pinnacles, including Rice and Madawaska Mts., feathered o'er from base to crown with 'wildering forests, continually divert and charm the vision." Its shores are clothed in primeval splendor and no signs of civilization or cultivation are manifest in any direction, except at its northern extremity, where the Meacham Lake House, located on one of those golden strands, and embowered by majestic pines, solicits the trav- eler's attention. No other habitation stands within 5 m. of its waters. It derived its name from Thomas Meacham, a noted Nimrod, who spent many years in hunting in this section, and who died in 1849, a g e< i 79. He kept an account. of his successes, which resulted as follows : 3 m > O ■x > 3 > m •i <* MEACHAM LAKE HOUSE. 187 wolves, 214; panthers, 77; bears, 210; deer, 2,550. Mr. Meacham would relate many amusing anecdotes. His traps were always out, and one day in examining them he found two wolves and a bear, and shot another on the way, making, as bounties then were, a profit of |i8^. {Hough.) The well-known and popular hostelry, the Meacham Lake House, Alon. R. Fuller, proprietor, (P. O., Duane, N. Y.,) most suitably provides for the wants of tourists, and trout and venison in the proper season, constantly abound on its tables as well as in the waters and forests in the vicinity. It is a delightful summer resort, and its gentle- manly host is ever ready to cater to the various tastes of his many visitors. Good boats, reliable guides, and every- thing needed for a sporting life, furnished on short notice. As he owns the land surrounding the lake, he has full con- trol of its sporting privileges. So very desirable is this retreat that intending guests often find it necessary to apply for rooms, weeks in advance of their occupancy. The following resorts are conveniently reached by boats or good portages : Clear Pond, J^ m. N. of Fuller's, has no apparent inlet or outlet ; its water is as clear as crystal and is alive with white-fish. It also yields large speckled trout, some of which (real salmo fontinalis) have reached the extraordinary weight of 5 lbs. Buck Pond, once famous for small trout, 60 rods farther N., is made up of spring-holes and its outlet feeds Deer River. N. E. of Meacham House, about 3 m. is Winnebago Pond. The. outlet and chief inlet of Meacham Lake are both at its southern extremity and but a short distance apart. Down the former, (the E. branch of St. Regis River,) at the old bridge, and not far from the lake, where the road from Malone (via Fuller's) to Paul Smith's crosses the stream, will be found most excellent trouting in the spring and fall. Below this point the stream is very rapid as far as the "Lower Landing" (about 1% m.); but thence down, there are 6 or 7 m. of still-water fishing ; and this is the place generally visited for a good day's sport with the fly. At one point (about 5 m. from the lake), where two small cold brooks contribute their quota to this Stillwater, the angler usually meets with unqualified success. The E. Branch unites with the St. Regis proper, some distance 1 88 THE ADIRONDACKS. below, near the "Nine Mile Level." If we except one or two small clearings, the entire course of this stream is buried in a dense wilderness. Deer, trout and ruffed grouse are abundant along its line. (See p. 176). About 5 m. N. of Meacham Lake the road crosses Deer River (Ind., Oie-ka-rout-ne, "Trout River," a tributary of the St. Regis, which widens as it flows. Here also is fine fishing and hunting. The principal inlet of Meacham Lake is the outlet of Osgood Pond. This stream flows in a circuitous course through a hilly section of the country. One can pass with a boat, up the inlet from the lake, to a point within 1 m. of the house of A. C. McCollum, that most notable guide. The boat landing here is familiarly known as "Hog's Back," — not a very euphonious name, but a most romantic spot. This portion of the stream (4 m.) passes through a very wild and flat section, with little upland to vary the scene ; marshy patches and sloughs occasionally appearing on either side. These openings and swampy fields are fine feeding places for deer ; and frequent opportunity will be found to "draw a bead" upon one or more of them, by paddling up the inlet. Near McCollum's place there is a scattering settlement of 12 or 15 families, generally called "Burnt Ground." These people make pretensions to farming, but obtain most of their livelihood from trapping and hunting. Through this place, which is 6 or 7 m. S. of Meacham House, the road from Malone to Paul Smith's passes, and with this exception, the route after reaching Deer R. lies through an unbroken wilderness. There are many pretty lakelets in the vicinity of McCollum's, notably, Baker, Rice, Mud, Spring, Clear, Chain and McCollum's Ponds, situated in the midst of delightful scenery, and all accessible by easy portages. But few of the Adirondack resorts afford better sport to the hunter and fisherman than these waters. A trail extends N. W. 6 m. to Spring Cove, on St. Regis R. Years ago Mr. J. H. Titus, who built the Meacham House, of which he was proprietor several years, cleared out this inlet with a view to opening water communication with St. Regis Lake. He succeeded in a measure, and for X H O I/) O z o o 3 Q < LAKE DUANE. LAKE TITUS. 189 a considerable period made a practice of running his boats almost to the Hnding of St. Regis Hotel. But the water route now taken from Fuller's to Paul Smith's, is as follows: MILES. 3 1 i# i# 'J4 5 Meacham Lake, .... Inlet to Hog's Back, Portage to McCollum's, Portage, r., W,, .... Chain Lake, Portage, S. W., Folingsby, Jr., Pond (2 x $), Folingsby, Jr., Pond Outlet, (crooked and shallow) Middle St. Regis River (or road 3 m), Portage around dam at Keese's Mill, St. Regis River, Total, . 22 Tourists generally prefer the land route, as it is some 10 m. shorter and less tedious ; but those intent upon sport and adventure follow the water course, as they always find plenty of fish and game on the way. There are many other beautiful lakes and ponds buried in the deep recesses of the woods, conveniently visited from Malone over good roads. The most important of these are the following : Lake Titus {2% x J^ ; formerly known as Branch Pond) an affluent of Salmon R., lies 8 m. S. W. Maple Hill, Mounts Pisgah and Immortelle, and the thickly wooded forest sur- rounding, render the scenery wild and striking. This lake is fast becoming a select resort, and a number of neat cot- tages have been erected within a few years. Salmon River, 3 m. E ; Deer River, 5 m. W.; and Bear P. r m. W., are reached by good roads or paths. Also Lake Duane, 2 m. by path or 3 m. by road S. W.; whence the interesting group of lakelets, described on another page, is visited. (See Lake Duane). From Malone, a drive of 13 m., via. Lake Titus, on one of the two routes to Meacham Lake, brings us to Lake Duane (ix^) formerly styled Long Pond, lying nearly 190 THE ADIRONDACK^. 2,000 ft. above the level of the sea. Among the many en- chanting lakes of the Adirondacks, few excel this sheet in the variety of its charms. Its quiet waters, winding like a river between high wooded banks, are shielded from furi- ous winds by the surrounding peaks — Humbug Mt. rising on the E. side and Mt Francesca from the W: shore. Rowing is at all times perfectly safe ; while a succession of new and ch inning scenes constantly surprises and delights us. Here the lake is but a narrow stream ; there a broad expanse. Now we row under the green bank of a peninsula, whose overhanging shrubs and ferns are mirrored in the still waters beneath. Again we gather white and yellow lilies in some sheltered bay where the water is dark with the shadows of the murmuring pines and hemlocks of this "forest primeval," whose emerald robes have never been marred by fire or the axe. We rest upon our oars and the solitude is only broken by the flight of birds through the branches, or the stirring of wild creatures of the woods, which makes the stillness even more impressive. But in a moment we have turned the boat and passed the point. The sunlight pours down upon a broad sheet of water, clear and spirkling as a sea of glass ; and the great hotel and the distant mountains are again in sight. At the head of this sheet, on a gentle eminence drained by Lake Duane on the S. and Lake Frances and the Twin Lakes on the N. stands Hotel Ayers. It is a 3 story structure, with broad verandas on each story extending around three sides of the house. The lower floor, finished in natural hard wood of the region, is occupied by the parlor, dining-room, halls and offices. The apartments on the floor above are very desirable — most of them affording de- lightful views of lake, mountains and forest in various directions. The beds and furnishings are of superior quality. An abundance of pure water from a mountain-spring is carried through the house in large pipes, supplying the table, baths and closets with constantly running water. Great attention has been paid to sanitary plumbing. The soil about the premises is sandy and there are no marshy grounds in the vicinity. The house has a capacity for 100 guests, is heated by steam and is kept open the entire year. > m o G > Z o o z o z o -) I I o > HOTEL AYERS. DEER RIVER. 19 1 Order and neatness characterize the place, and in the season the table, always excellent, is generously supplied with trout and venison. Mr. Ayers formerly kept the Duane House, and in his experience of a score of years, he has gained a high reputation as a landlord. The resort he has established ranks with the very best in the Adiron- dacks. Boats for all purposes; also single and double carriages are provided at moderate rates, and here guides can always be engaged. (P. O. Duane, N. Y.) In the neighborhood are many pleasant walks and drives. Following a path a dozen rods, we reach Lake Frances ( 2 /$ x J^ ; formerly called Green or Gourd P.); richly wooded and quite at- tractive, with subterraneous outlet. Forty rods beyond this by path (}4 m. from the hotel), is pretty Spring P. (^ x }i) whose bottom is alive with boiling springs. From here we may enjoy 4 miles of boating down its outlet, through Twin Lakes (linked beauties only 4 rods apart) and Little Salmon R., with fine fishing all the way. Horseshoe P. (1 x y 2 ) is 2 m. S.; and Eagle P. (^ x }4) 2*4 m. S. E. of the hotel. Boats can pass down the outlet of the former (S.) a short distance to Deer R., which is navigable for 5 m. This stream (3 m. from the hotel) offers good trouting even during the poorest part of the season. Speckled trout of unusual size and quality abound in Lake Duane ; and as it is stocked with fry from the State Hatchery, the fishing is likely to improve from year to year. This section is also a remarkable resort for deer. DRIVES FROM HOTEL AYERS. Duane, Lake Meacham, Loon Lake, Deer River, Debar Pond, .... Lake Titus, (by path 2 m.) Chasm Falls, . State Dam and Indian Lake, . Malone, . MILES. 4 12 14 18 3 7 3 7 1 1 '3 192 THE ADIRONDACK.S. It is the intention of the proprietors to run a stage to and from Malone, tri-weekly through July and August. Fare $1.50 or $2.00. In other months tourists should apply to Roby & Hardy, livery keepers at Malone, for conveyances to Lake Duane, or write to W. J. Ayers & Son, Duane, N. Y. Round Pond (called Indian Lake by Hammond), is 12 m. S. E. of Malone, and is accessible by a road diverging from the main road at Titusville. This sheet of water (3 x 2), as its name indicates, is nearly circular, and is noted for its beauty. Not the least cultivation exists on its borders, and no less wild are the surroundings than when the first hardy trapper penetrated to its shores. Like most of these Wilderness waters, it is the home of the different varieties of trout; they especially abound near the mouth of a cold stream entering a little bay at its southern extremity. The outlet of Round Pond flows into Salmon R., 1 m. S. W.; and V 2 m. below the junction of the two streams, the State has constructed a substantial dam, which has a tend- ency to force the water of the river back into the pond, thus making it a grand reservoir. Salmon R. (Ind , Kent- se-a-ko-wu-ne, "big fish river") is to this county what the Raquette is to St. Lawrence County — the lumberman's highway. Hence in the spring time, when the river is too low for running logs, the gates of this dam are hoisted, and the great body of water, which has been held back from its natural course, now swells the stream, and the logs are speedily forced by the increasing flood down to Malone and Titusville, where the extensive mills belonging to A. B. Parmelee & Son receive them. This dam, being only 13 m. from Malone, by wagon road or railway, is a favorite resort for the towns-people, who often visit it and return on the same day with a generous string of speckled game. In fact, above the dam, below the dam, and anywhere in the crystalline waters of Salmon R., one can catch the finest kind of trout. The flooding of the banks of the river, caused by the dam, has injured the bordering scenery somewhat ; but as a fishing centre, "State Dam" is unsur- passed ; indeed "the fame of this locality for the sport it affords is not excelled by any other in the Adirondacks. STATE DAM." MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE. 193 A stretch of river navigable by boats extends for miles both above and below the hotel, and it is generally con- ceded that the angler here finds good reward for his labor when from many other waters the creels come in empty. There isn't a day in the season but that faithful work will give a fair catch, while under favorable conditions the scores made by fishermen are such as visitors of a genera- tion ago used to make. There are twelve other bodies of water abounding in trout within a radius of seven miles, so that change of scene is open to the sportsman at his liking. The hunting is equally excellent, and no resort in this section registers more deer killed in the season." The Mountain View House (formerly "State Dam House") has been trebled in capacity, now providing for nearly 100 guests. The following description of the pres- ent condition of that resort, reached us just as this book was going to press : The Mountain View House is not a new candidate for the public favor, except in the one sense that the old build- ing in which the resort's reputation was won has been en- tirely replaced by a new one, larger, modern, delightfully arranged and comfortable in every way. The new house is three stories in height, contains fifty-two sleeping rooms, bath room with hot and cold water, and large connecting sitting-rooms on the first floor with fire-places at each end. Every room in the house is heated by hot water, with in- dependent connections, so that each guest may determine the temperature of his own apartment. Every article of furniture in the house is new, and special effort has been made to have the beds the best. Wide two-story verandas extend around three sides of the house, giving magnificent views and affording opportunity for lounging or promenad- ing. From one point the guest faces an amphitheater of mountains, comprising sixteen distinct peaks and consti- tuting one of the grandest views in the entire Wilderness. The sanitary arrangements are perfect. Experienced and trustworthy guides will be furnished at moderate rates, and supplies can be had from the house by parties going into camp. 17 194 THE AD1RONDACKS. HOW TO REACH MOUNTAIN VIEW. The Mountain View House is a short three minutes' walk from the station, Mountain View, on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. Visitors from New York, Albany or the West should take New York Central R. R. via Her- kimer. Through sleeping cars, between New York and Montreal, stop at Mountain View daily. Visitors from New England points will find it most convenient to come to Malone via Central Vermont R. R. and thence via A. & St. L. R'y. Telephone in the house and telegraph at the station, only 40 rods distant. Entertainment of winter boarders will be a specialty. (P. O. address, Mountain View, N. Y.) The following forest-embosomed waters, sources of Sal- mon R., are accessible from this spot : — Round Pond, N. E. with which there is communication both by road (}6 m.) and its outlet (r m.) Charley Pond, 2 m. S. E., is a pretty lakelet, noted for its beautiful environment and its fine quality of trout. The fish in this pond are quite large, and differ much in appearance from the trout taken from other waters. They are known as the "Silver Skins," having a bright silvery surface. When cooked, the meat is red and very firm. The distance from State Dam by water, to Charley Pond, including a carry of 100 r. is about 4 m. Deer Fly Pond is 1 m. S. E. of State Dam ; Wolf Pond is 6 m. S. E. Plumadore P. (2 x 2), has usually been visited by diverg- ing 4 m.N. E. from the Ausable Forks route, at the "Ross Place," situated on the Hatch Stream, (famous for trout- ing) 20 m. from Malone ; but it is now more conveniently reached via the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. This charming body of water, is nearly circular and generally teems with trout. From here a carry leads to Wolf P., 2 m. E., from which it is 3 m. S. W. to Elbow Pond. The Chateaugay R. R. and the Adirondack & St. Law- rence Railway, pass near Wolf and Plumadore Ponds. RAGGED LAKE CLUB. 1 95 Owl's Head P. lies in the shadow of Mt. Owl's Crest, 2 m. N. W. of Mountain View House. Lake Duane is n m. W. of State Darr. (See p. 189.) As a general rule there is good fishing in these waters in every season, and as the country surrounding is very wild, deer are often seen in the neighborhood. Three m. above State Dam (S. E.) Salmon R. receives the waters of Ragged Lake, Wolf Pond, etc. Ragged or Salmon Lake, i6*4 m. S. E. of Malone, is reached by the same road that leads to State Dam and Round P., being 3^ m. from Mountain View House. The length of this lake is about 3^ m. (6 m. if Mud Lake is included ; really forming its northern part), with a width varying from J^ to *4 m. In the language of Hammond, "it is as lovely a sheet of water as ever enthusiast described, or poet portrayed in song." In the S. E., Mount Lyon rears his lofty head to the clouds, standing like a gigantic sentinel, overlooking forest and lake, and watching in moveless silence the wilderness around him. This lake is most appropriately named. Its outlines are peculiarly irregular, most emphatically ragged. In its clear and deep waters numerous trout have their homes. Good pathways lead from this lake N. E. 5 m. to the Chateaugay waters {via Mountain P. 1 m.); and to Ingra- ham Pond, 2 m. N. W. which is 4 m. from State Dam. The singular lake called "Figure Eight," — the name in- dicating its shape — lying directly N. of Ragged L., is reached as follows: Carry % m. to Lily Pad P.; row across this sheet J^ m., and up the inlet 1 m.; thence carry y 2 m. A large portion of the Ragged Lake waters have be- come the property of the Ragged Lake Club ; composed of gentlemen residing in Syracuse. No person, except members of the association, will be allowed to hunt or fish on this sportsmen's preserve, without special permission. A. B. Parmelee & Son, Geo. Ehret and Hon. Ashbel P. Fitch, also own land on this lake. From here it is only 5 m. to Wolf Pond Station on the Chateaugay R. R. 196 THE ADIRONDACK^. Another resort in this section must not be overlooked viz : the "Bend in the River," also lying on the main route to Meacham Lake and Paul Smith's, 2 m. S. of Titusville, and 10 m. from Malone. The "Bend," true to its name, is a sharp curve of Salmon R., forming quite an "oxbow," and is upon the whole a very romantic spot. Boats ascend the stream 6 m. (within 2 m. of State Dam), and there is good fishing and night hunting all the way up. Down the stream a short distance, navigation is obstructed by rapids and falls. The Ellis House, at the Bend, furnishes pleasant but limited quarters for sportsmen. The environing sce- nery is indeed picturesque. A little west of the main road and directly in the rear of the house, the land rises to a considerable eminence. From this point looking S. E., there is as fine a landscape as ever artist could wish to place upon canvas — a bold, broken foreground, admitting a fine view of the river, which like a silvery serpent, is seen winding amid the mountain ranges, until lost in the dark green foliage of the forest. Several years ago, a celebrated New York artist who frequents this section of the Adiron- dacks nearly every season, selected this spot for an elabor- ate painting valued at several thousand dollars. It ap- peared on exhibition at the Academy of Design. Lovers of the beautiful or those in search of the picturesque will be delighted with the country here. Lower Chateaugay Lake is visited from Malone by a pleasant drive of 13 m. over a good carriage road. (P. 204 ) On the main road leading S., (from Malone) to Meacham L. and Paul Smith's in the little hamlet of Duane, is located the Ladd House. This hotel is new, and is pleasantly situated — commanding on every hand a delightful prospect. The important peak, De Bar Mt. — distant about 5 m. — forms a grand feature of the landscape. The hotel is on a table-land, 1,000 feet above Malone. It is also situated in the immediate vicinity of choice sporting grounds, and frequently sportsmen as well as lovers of pure air and fine scenery, are content to tarry here for a day or for weeks, instead of penetrating farther into the Wilderness. It is a favorite " Half- Way-House " for parties en route to Meacham L. and Paul Smith's, who procure here a dinner invariably satisfactory in every particular. "the lost prince." 197 The distance from Malone to Duane, is 15 m.; to Mea- cham L., 25 m.; to Paul Smith's, 37 m ; to Lower Saranac Lake, 50 m.; to Loon L., 29 m., and Ausable Forks, 52 m. There is a tri-weekly mail and stage line between Malone and Duane. The route to Ausable Forks is identical with that leading to Meacham Lake, as far as Duane, where it strikes the old ''Military Turnpike" and bears thence S. easterly, passing Loon Lake. And here we are again in the very center of another famous sporting section. [That most important and delightful resort, Loon Lake House, is fully described under the head of Route Twenty- third.'] It may be of interest to tourists to know that Malone is within convenient distance of other delightful resorts for the sporting world. St. Regis Indian Reservation,* cover- ing an area of 22 square m., through which the extremely clear waters of the St. Regis R. flow, is distant only 24 m. This stream passes through the most charming scenery im- aginable. At the mouth of the stream, where it joins the waters of the beautiful St. Lawrence, is located the ancient Indian village of St. Regis. Here the old church with its historic bell still stands, an object of interest. Within 2 m. of St. Regis is the little village of Hogansburg, where Eleazer Williams, the "Lost Prince," the reputed Bourbon, supposed heir to the throne of France, spent the last years of his eventful and mysterious life, doing mission work among the St. Regis tribe. Whether he came of royal blood, or was the son of the noble red man, we know not. The Essex County Republican publishes the following interesting account of that remarkable man : — Rev. Eleazer Williams, claimed to be Louis XVII, heir to the throne of France. The thunders of the American Revolution had hardly died away when the terrible and bloody French Revolution of 1789 was inaugura- ted, which overthrew the old Bourbon dynasty and founded a nominal and short lived Republic. Louis XVI. was the unfortunate Sovereign, and his wife was the queenly Marie Antoinette, of the Royal household of Austria. The Dauphin, or heir apparent to the throne, was a child of only four years when the royal family was seized by the mob and sent to prison. The King was beheaded in January, 1793, and the Queen in October of the 'The St. Regis Indians are a remnant ol that once powerful tribe, the Six N atlons, now reduced to a few hundred people. I98 THE ADIRONDACKS. same year. The Dauphin was kept a prisoner in the Temple. After the execution of his father he was proclaimed king by the Royalists, but in June 8th, 1795, his death while yet in captivity was announced. There was always a suspicion that the Dauphin, who had then reached the age of ten years, did not die in the Temple as announced, but was clandestinely sent to America. In July, 1812, at the very opening of our second war with Great Britain, a prepossessing young man arrived in Plattsburgh and presented himself to Gen. Benjamin Mooers with a letter from General Dearborn introducing him as Eleazer Williams, Superintendent General of the Northern Indian Department. He did gallant service on the frontier during the entire war and was wounded at the battle of Plattsburgh. He remained in and about Plattsburgh for some time after the war, published a spelling book in the language of the seven Iroquois nations in 1813 ; officiated as lay reader among the Oneida Indians ; took orders in the Episcopal church ; and was subsequently sent west on an important Indian mission There will always remain a mystery about Eleazer Williams' origin. His reputed history was in substance that he was born in Caughnawaga, Canada, about 1787, his father being of English descent, named Thomas Williams, and his mother a full blooded Indian woman, named Conwaiewanteta. But Williams claimed to be the identical Louis XVII., or the lost Dauphin whose disappear- ance from the temple was always shrouded in mystery, and that he was brought over from France directly to Ticonderoga, N. Y., and subse- quently taken to Caughnawaga. He died at St. Regis Falls, N. Y. in 1858, and was buried in the little church yard at Hogansburg, beneath the shade of beautiful ever- green trees. It is said that a St. Regis Indian, for committing some misdemeanor, has been banished for life, by his tribe, to an island in the St. Law- rence, near the mouth of Salmon R., since called Kar-is-tau-tee 's Island; named after the exile. His name has been anglicized into Chris-tu-tu. The island — a delightful one — is bounded on the S. side by an extensive marsh or rush bed, reaching nearly to the main shore. In these marshes the ducks build their nests and hatch their young; consequently in the fall of the year one can have rare sport about "Chris-tu-tu's Island." Canadian sportsmen from Montreal frequent this place every autumn and spend weeks, hunting ducks. "Indian Summer" is the best period for securing them. After the sportsman has feasted his eyes upon the beau- ties of the landscape, and gladdened his heart with a satis- factory quantity of the finny tribe, he can pay his particular attention to acres of wild ducks that are frequently seen at one time within the limits of the Reservation. CHATEAUGAY. 199 Again, it is but 20 m. from Malone to the St. Lawrence. To Fort Covington, situated on Salmon R., the distance is 15 m.; thence to the mouth of the river 5 m. Tourists can engage small boats at Fort Covington, and guides, who will accompany them to the river of the "Thousand Isles." There is fine fishing among the islands of the St. Lawrence, especially near the mouth of Salmon R ; and as far up the river as Fort Covington. Better trolling waters in the spring time cannot be found anywhere. Pike, pickerel and black bass, abound here, and masqueallonge are frequently caught weighing from 10 to 30 pounds. Thus it will be seen that those who visit Malone on a sporting excursion, can try their luck in the mountain stream, or in the broad waters of the mighty St. Lawrence ; and those not thus in- clined may make the highly exciting tour down the rapids ("poetry of the river") and pass on to Montreal and Que- bec ; as steamers that ply between those cities and Corn- wall, run up the Salmon regularly to Fort Covington. The principal hotel in Malone is the Howard House, admirably located within a few feet of the handsome depot. In its stately proportions it is a striking ornament to this prosperous village — the imposing central-piece of radiating business marts. Few houses in the country afford pleas- anter quarters, better supplied tables, or superior manage- ment. Its elegantly furnished rooms and most admirable appointments are adapted to the requirements of nearly 150 guests, 100 of whom the dining hall will seat. In no hotel is there more attention paid to the comfort and con- venience, and even luxury of its patrons. The happiness of the proprietors is in exact ratio to the enjoyment of their ■visitors. The tourist and pleasure-seeker will find this resting place, alike worthy of a visit and all commendation. Twenty-first: — Chateaugay (French, Chateau-gai, a"gay castle," once standing near where Chateaugay R., enters the St. Lawrence, opposite the Island of Montreal), a thriv- ing town, 12 m. E. of Malone, has many scenes of beauty in its immediate neighborhood. In close proximity to the station house is a wonderful gorge (Ind., O-sar-he-hon, "a place so difficult that the THE ADIRONDACKS. more one tries to extricate himself, the worse he is off,") 200 ft. in depth, riving the solid rocks through which the Chateaugay River pours in mad career. A prominent journalist thus fitly describes this natural marvel, styled the Chateaugay Chasm : "It is remarkable that the State of New York should possess three such places as Watkin's Glen,Ausable Chasm and Chateaugay Chasm. That the last, the wildest and grandest of all, should have been so recently explored and made accessible to the tourist seems to give it the character of a recent discovery. * * * We drove through the farming out- skirts of the town i}& miles, in the direction of the St. Lawrence, to the precipitous cliffs of ChateaugayRiver, at a point within a beautiful natural , park of forest trees, where the Jriver, bounding down from the {Chateaugay Lakes, pours its tor- Irents of water through the narrow (confines of the sandstone cliffs that rise from the rocky bed of the stream to a height of nearly two hundred feet. In this whole region there is certainly no more beautiful and charming spot at which to spend a few summer days, or even weeks. "Although the Chasm has been but recently opened up, no pains have been spared to guard the life and promote the safety and comfort of the adventurer, for such indeed must be termed the person who explores the series of deep gorges beneath him, extending far. down the valley; but well is he repaid by the most picturesque views of wild and rugged grandeur. From the pavilion on the edge of the cliff, passing down steps formed in the rock, the des- cent being safe although quite abrupt in places, we come first to a broad, fiat rock, by which the river dashes over a high ledge, forming the upper or first falls, a cascade of CHATEAUGAY CHASM. 201 full volume and foaming brilliancy. High above is the rugged masonry of sandstone blocks, formed by the regular stratification of the deposit, with frequent irregular fissures and seams nearly at right angles with the strata. The mind can scarcely free itself from the impression that the steep and massive walls were the work of some mediaeval master builder ; since, in addition to their artificial structural ap- pearance, in many places not much play of the imagination is needed to form in general outline mighty embattled towers and gothic arches that may lead far into the realm of mystery. Such is the character of Cathedral Rock and the Bastile on the left, and the Niches of Jupiter on the right, nearly opposite Vulcan's Cave. The Niches and Vulcan's Cave are seen high up in the cliffs as we pass still down along the narrow gallery of smooth, natural pavement by the rippling surface of the stream to a widening of the gorge, where the force of the agitated water is somewhat calmed by spreading in a wide, thin, silvery sheet over the smooth sandstone that at this point unites the two walls of the chasm below the water ; but it is only the calm before the storm, since the sparkling waters in a bright glossy sheet glide down from one to another of a series of smooth stone terraces, at each interruption in its hasty career seething and foaming and sending up clouds of tiny sparkling prisms, that in the sunlight show a succession of iridescent bows that span the gleaming walls. This is Rainbow Basin. We pass close by the leaping waters, down a natural stair- way of nearly ioo steps formed by the successive strata of the stone, and passing by Rainbow Basin we rest upon the smooth, shelving rock, and quench our thirst from a mineral spring at the entrance of Giant Gorge. "At this point, looking back up the chasm down which we have come, the view is magnificent; embracing the high, rocky cliffs, with their wealth of crowning ferns and the foliage interlacing, thus arching the heights above, and the foaming waters of the several cascades seemingly dash- ing down upon us. Upward, the walls, rising gradually, approach each other so that the distance across the gulf at the top is only 25 feet. In Colonial times, and until the year 1800, the Chasm was here spanned by a bridge that formed a part of the great highway of the Wilderness. 202 THE ADIRONDACKS. Many are the interesting traditions regarding this locality, but space forbids their relation here. This is still called Pioneer's Crossing. On the north side is Table Rock, sometimes called Point Lookout, from which giddy height the view down the gorge is worthy of miles of travel ; but the tourist shudders as he draws back, and generally does not make a second advance. As we enter Giant Gorge we are still more impressed with the wildness of the place, and our guide soon shows us one of the most romantic and interesting of its features — the entrance to Vulcan's Cave, 60 feet above the bed of the river and fully 120 feet from the top of the overhanging cliff. Unless this cave was visited by daring Indians it is quite certain that it never was visited by man until within a few months, when it was reached with great difficulty by means of long spliced ladders. Since that time an enclosed stairway has been erected by which the tourist may ascend and thus enter the cave. Within the cave, which is about 30 feet square, the walls and roof present an interesting study to the geolo- gist, as does indeed the Chasm in its entirety ; but certain places, the. niches and grottoes, and pre-eminently the interior of Vulcan's Cave, reveal to us in some degree Nature's processes of forming and upbuilding, and likewise the results of her freaks in tearing down and hollowing out the rocks, while at the same time we may witness the slow process of disintegration still going on. The cave was doubtless hollowed out of the sandstone. Here within the cave it has a gnarled and fantastic stratification, by tiny streams working down from above and gradually wearing away the softer stone and shaping the masses of harder deposit into a great variety of forms, in part archi- tectural pillars supporting gothic arches, miniature dormer windows and niches, and in part grotesque forms in relief adorning the walls with sphinxes, odd shapes of demons, and even of unfinished statues of a variety of colors. When the formation is at all regular in its stratification the layers vary in thickness from a small fraction of an inch to several inches. From the elevated platform in front of the cave we look still farther for a mile or more down the Chasm into a region as yet passable only with great danger. To us at present it is a realm of mystery, where it is said there the chateaugay lakes. (See next page.) 203 are still other caves which may be made accessible by another season. Descending, we pass the foot of Pulpit Rock, and leaving the plank walk at its terminus with some difficulty we picked our way along the water's edge, by clinging in many places to the overhanging rocks, a distance of a quarter of a mile, to view the three grottoes of Juno, Venus and Minerva. These grottoes are rarely visited, but they will repay the difficult journey thither, since these form one of the most interesting features of the locality, and one in which the Chateaugay Chasm surpasses that of Ausable. These grottoes are entered through gothic arches of singularly correct architectural appearance, and although they do not extend far into the rocky side of the Chasm, yet without, when viewed at a certain angle, they impress the mind that through them may be effected an entrance to the land of enchantment where dwells the Great Spirit, the presiding deity of this almost Plutonian region." Since this resort was opened many decided improvements have been made by the Chasm Company both in the Chasm proper and the park surrounding. Near the entrance to the Chasm, on the edge of a grove, has been erected a fine hotel building, with accommodations for a large num- ber of visitors for any period of time. Excellent meals will be served at all hours, with well furnished and comfortable rooms, and every attention will be paid to the comfort of the visitor. The building is most delightfully situated, the air thereabout invigorating, and one will feel amply repaid for his visit. From the cupola of the hotel can be had a view of magnificent grandeur, the Adirondacks on the one hand, and the majestic St. Lawrence and the Canadian shores on the other. The Chasm House coach meets every train, to convey visitors to and from the Chasm. The railroad crosses this deep channel worn by the Chateaugay, on an embankment, 160 feet above the river, and 800 feet long. There is a remarkable spring near the village that receives considerable attention. For quite a space of time it emits a large volume of water, highly charged with nitrogen gas, assuming the form of bubbles on its surface. Suddenly it ceases to flow and remains dry 204 THE ADIRONDACKS. for an indefinite period. One mile N. E. of this there is a constant gas spring. Ladd's and The Union are the leading hotels of the village. The two Chateaugay Lakes are among the most attrac- tive and important of all the Adirondack waters. And from their easy access to the cars and telegraph, no other locality in that region is more favorable for sportsmen and pleasure seekers. The lower lake is situated about 7 m. S. of Chateaugay village. Concord stages meet the trains at the depot and convey passengers to this lake, by a pleasant ride of about 1 Yz hours over an excellent plank road. Here at the foot is a good hotel— the Banner House — which is run in con- nection with Willow Beach Cottage, near the Merrill House, on the upper lake. Board, boats, and guides are furnished at reasonable rates. (P. O., Chateaugay Lake, N. Y.) At the wharf, in front of the hotel, lies a commodious yacht always "steamed up." This lake is 2% m. in length and 1 m. wide, and surrounded by fine mountain scenery and rocky shores. Leaving this water by the steamer, the tour- ist enters the Narrows, 4 m. long, and from 10 to 40 r. in width, where there is, in some places, fine fishing: From a point, 2 m. beyond the lower lake on the W. shore, a foot path leads W. to Ragged Lake (5 m.) via., Mountain P. (4 m) The Narrows soon widen and the scenery expands. A short turn is made and the upper lake, like magic, is revealed in one of the most lovely views in the world. There are a number of comfortable boarding houses at desirable points, and excellent sport. On the W. shore, fine private residences have been constructed by gentlemen of Boston and New York, who spend the summers here with their families. In the center of the lake is Rock or Mead Island, with a small private cottage. On visiting the spot one could easily imagine he was in fairy land, the picture is so grand and beautiful. None should leave the lake without getting a view of it from that point ; and but few have done so, if we may judge from the hundreds of names recorded there. (Watson). Upper Chateaugay Lake is 5 x 2, and thus there is an uninterrupted water reach, including the two lakes and the SCENES ON UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE. UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 205 Narrows, of 1 1 m. not to name the several miles of inlet navigation. These waters abound in the finest quality of fish, such as speckled and lake-trout, shad and white-fish. Deer and other game are found on the neighboring mountains. The Twin Ponds, lying 3 m. S. of the head of the upper lake, at the base of Norton's Peak, are reached by trail. It is said that there is a wonderful cavern in this mountain. West of Twin P's are Spring, Wolf and Plumadore Ponds. (See Route Twentieth, and p. 194.) From "Ralph's," on the N. E. side of the same lake a pathway extends 3 m. E. to Bradley Pond, a sheet of water some 2 m. in circumference, once a famous trout resort ; and thence Chazy Lake, 2 m. farther E., is accessible by a plank road, or by Chateaugay R. R. From the W. shore of the upper lake (about midway, a little N. of Indian Pt„) a trail leads 4 m. N. W. — ascend- ing all the way — to Mountain P.; a small sheet discharging into this lake, and elevated nearly 600 ft. above it. From this we descend 400 ft. to reach Ragged L. 1 m. N. W. (See p. 195.) The hotel accommodations at Upper Chateaugay Lake are so exceptionally excellent that visitors attracted by the fame of this wildly beautiful and fish-burdened water, are generally induced to prolong their stay. "Ralph's," (P. O., Lyon Mountain, N. Y.) has become one of the most prominent of all the Wilderness hostelries. This spacious structure is situated on the E. shore of the lake, about 1 m. above the Narrows, nearly opposite Rock Island, and at the foot of Birch Mt., back of which towers the lofty form of Lyon Mt., the most conspicuous object in the landscape. The situation is truly enchanting ; com- manding, as it does, a continuous view of the entire lake. The house is three stories in height, and a dancing hall and three verandas extend the length of the building, the latter affording extensive and delightful promenades. The in- terior of the hotel has been arranged with especial refer- ence to the comfort of its patrons. Every sleeping-room contains a good bed, and generally affords a fine lake-view 206 THE AD1R0NDACKS. of several miles. The office, reading room and parlor have open fireplaces, which add much to their cheerfulness. The latter is furnished with an excellent upright piano for the use of guests. The dining-room is pleasantly located, with a seating capacity for 125 people. A building, con- taining billiard parlors and bowling alleys has been erected. A telegraph office is located in the house, and mails are received twice daily. Daily papers reach this place at 9:30, the morning of their publication. This is accomplished by means of the Chateaugay Railroad, extending from Plattsburg to Lower Saranac Lake. Carriages from "Ralph's" meet every train at Lyon Mt. Two steamers make several trips daily to the foot of the lower lake, (fare, 50 cts.) — connecting with stages to and from Chateaugay Station on O. & L. C. R. R.; fare, 50 cts. The same point may be reached with carriages from Ralph's without taking a steamer. The New York Tribune says : — "Many tourists who would be glad to spend a portion of the summer in the Adirondacks are prevented by dread of the long stage rides, which are necessary to reach distant points. "Ralph's Hotel offers to all such a most desirable and homelike retreat, only three and one-half miles from the Chateaugay Railroad, starting at Plattsburg, the latter place being reached by the Delaware & Hudson Rail- road, or by steamers on Lake Champlain. "These routes offer to travelers the very best facilities, and everything possible is done to insure their comfort. 'Ralph's' is beautifully situated on Upper Chateaugay Lake, one of the most charming sheets of water in the wilderness, surrounded by high mountains and dense woods. "It has for several years been known as a resort for the best class of tourists, who desire a quiet time and a good rest without the restraints of larger and more intensely fashionable houses. The hotel is a marvel of neatness ; and the table, quality and service considered, 'second to none in the mountains. With good boats, delightful drives, "ralph's." upper chateaugay lake. 207 rambles in the woods and first-class fare, the visitor's time is passed altogether too quickly, but with great benefit to health, secured by the pure and bracing air." Table of distances from Ralph's to MILES. South Inlet, (fishing grounds, boat) - - 3^ Rocky Inlet, (fishing grounds,) Indian Point, 2 East Inlet, (fishing grounds,) - y 2 Oul-e-out, (fishing grounds,) - ^ Lyon Mountain R. R. Station, - 31^ Summit of Lyon Mt, - . 6 Chateaugay Ore and Iron Co's Mine, (all plank) 4 Chateaugay Ore and Iron Co's Forge, - - 7 Malone, (six miles of plank road) - 18 Chateaugay, O. & L. C. R. R., (steamer and stage) 14 Ogdensburg, - - 87 Syracuse, (via Norwood) - - 208 Syracuse, (via Malone and Herkimer) - - 258 Plattsburg, connecting with D. & H. R. R. - 351^ Montreal, (via Plattsburg or Chateaugay) 108 Lake George, (via Plattsburg) - 102 Boston, (via Plattsburg or Chateaugay) - - 300 New York, (via Plattsburg,) 13 hours' ride, - -344 Chazy Lake, via R. R., - - S^4 Rouse's Point, - - - 59 Paul Smith's, (via Malone) - - 60 V 2 Mountain Pond, (via boat and trail,) - 5 Ragged Lake, (via Mountain Pond,) - 6 State Dam and Round Pond, (via Ragged Lake,) - 9 Wolf Pond, (boat and good trail,) - - 8 Charley Pond, (5 miles from Indian Point) - - 7 Twin Pond, (via South Inlet and the Spring,) 6 The Merrill House, located near the foot of the lake E. side, and within ^ m. of the . Narrows, also bears a high reputation. It is delightfully situated, affording a magnifi- cent view of the lake and twenty surrounding mountain- peaks. The building is. flanked with broad piazzas, and an 208 THE AD1RONDACKS. open fireplace lends additional pleasantness to the parlor. It is nearly encompassed by evergreen trees, lending deli- cious shade and healing aroma to diseased lungs, while numerous charming walks and drives lead in all directions through the woods and along the shore, from which are afforded glimpses of beauty unsurpassed. A private park and fishing-ground have been established, for the enjoy- ment of guests. Several suitable cottages conveniently near offer pleasant quarters to the patrons. It will be seen that a special P. O., (Merrill, N. Y.) has been placed in the house. Mail and telegraph facilities are complete. Guests will be transported to and from the R. R. station at Lyon Mt., (4 m.) at 50 cts. each. Hotel Interlaken is also located on the eastern side, near the outlet, a few rods from the Merrill House and 1 J^ m. from "Ralph's" by boat, or 3 m. by carriage. Its situa- tion is delightful. It stands on elevated ground, 50 ft. above the water and 100 ft. from the shore — commanding a superb view of the lake and a score or more of encircling mountains. Several commodious cottages are used in con- nection with the hotel where home-like retirement is en- joyed. The entire establishment is capable of caring for 100 guests. The broad verandas, well furnished rooms, open fire-places, excellent cuisine (under the supervision of an experienced chef) and moderate prices, offer sufficient inducements to command large patronage. The grounds are pleasant and extensive, affording the usual variety of out-door sports. The hotel stage meets every train at Lyon Mt., 4 m. distant. (P. O. Merrill, N. Y.) The Lake View House is pleasantly located near the shore, 60 rods from the Interlaken, and commands a pros- pect similar in picturesqueness to that disclosed by the other resorts named. It offers entertainment to 35 guests, at moderate rates. (P. O. Merrill). The Indian Point House has a charming situation on the bold headland — really a peninsula — reaching far into the water, on the W. side, near the head of the lake, 2 m. from Ralph's, and 3 m. from the P. O., (Merrill). The panorama of lake and mountain scenery surveyed from the ROUSE S POINT. 209 three spacious verandas of the main building, is of exquisite beauty and grandeur. The establishment has good accommodations for 40 guests. The beds, furnishment and table, are excellent. The proprietor — R. M. Shutts — is well and favorably known to sportsmen, with his forest experience of more than a score of years ; and those who give him their patron- age will receive the most satisfactory attention. The choicest sporting grounds for the use of rod and gun, will be found near his place. No liquors are sold on the premises, and order, quiet and cleanliness prevail, while great care is taken to promote the comfort and pleasure of every visitor.* The steamers touch at this and at all the other summer resorts on the lake. The outlet of the Chateaugay Lakes is Chateaugay River, a tributary of the St. Lawrence. Vast beds of iron ore are successfully worked at Lyon Mt. by the Chateaugay Ore & Iron Co., in whose interest the Chateaugay R R. was constructed. Twenty ■ second : — From Rouse's Point, (Windsor Hotel) the E. terminus of the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R., and N. terminus of the Delaware & Hudson R. R., to Mooer's Junction, 12 m. ; thence to Chateaugay, 33 m.; Malone, 12 m.; Moira, 14 m.; Norwood, 22^ m.; Ogdens- burg, 241^ m The "Montreal & Plattsburg Railway," (now D. & H. R. R.) connects with this railroad at Mooer's Junction, 20 m. from Plattsburg. Tourists from the N. and E. pass over these lines to visit the Chateaugay, St. Regis, Saranac and Tupper Lake regions. (See routes from Plattsburg!) The excellent restaurant at Mooer's Junction demands more than a mere passing notice. The superior lunches •And here let us correct tlie opinion held by many, that the use of ardent spirits is indispensable when camping out. No impression could be more erroneous. The pure, bracing atmosphere ol this mountain region, affords all the stimulus that any nature requires ; and health will be more readily gained, or more firmly established by the utter rejection of artificial stim- ulants. 2IO THE ADIRONDACKS. and dinners provided here; always ready on arrival of the trains; have rendered this stopping-place famous through- out this line of travel. Near the Canada line, in the N. W. corner of this town, is a natural curiosity called the Gulf. This is a remark- able chasm 16 rods wide and 300 feet deep, enclosed on both sides with perpendicular walls of Potsdam sandstone; and at its bottom lies a pond said by some to be fathom- less — by others, 150 feet deep. Its formation is deemed a mystery, as no known existing agency could have produced this marvel. ijj > u < z < OS < ai OS i- < a ai < H Z 11. O CQ < PLATTSBURG. DIVISION III. INTO THE SARANAC REGION. The ordinary avenues of approach are those starting from Plattsburg, Port Kent and Westport. Tourists coming from the N., W., and S., however, will find it most convenient to follow that new line of travel from Malone, or Herkimer • The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway. Twenty-third : — Plattsburg is beautifully situated on the W. shore of Lake Champlain at the head of Cumber- land Bay and on both sides of Saranac River.* This stream, in its passage from its lake-adorned home in the Great Wilderness, (its principal sources are Upper and Lower Saranac, Round and Rainbow Lakes) flows with gentle current for most of the distance, (about 70 m.) until it reaches this point, where it descends some 40 or 50 ft. by a succession of falls and rapids, affording excellent water power to the numerous manufacturing establishments lo- cated here.f The surface of the town slopes toward the lake, rendering its situation most delightful. The village has suffered severely from several destructive fires, but has arisen from each infliction in augmented beauty and ren- ovated vigor. This is attested by the massive blocks of stores and manufactories, its elegant churches, public build- ings and fine private residences. In the year 1769, Count Charles de Fredenbtwg, a German nobleman, also a captain in the British army, having married a lady of the queen's household, in England, obtained a grant from the English government * Saranac is an Indian word signifying', "a river thai; flows under rock." t Three of the talis in this stream have a perpendicular descent of about 40 ft. each. 2 12 THE ADIRONDACKS. of 30,000 acres of land lying on Cumberland Bay, in the present town of Plattsburg. He resided here in great splendor for several years, previous to the Revolution. At the commencement of that con- flict, he sent his family to Montreal but remained himself for some time on his estate. At length he mysteriously disappeared and it was sup- posed that he was robbed and murdered, as he had much silver-plate and other valuable property in his possession. His house and a saw mill he had erected some three miles from his residence were burned at the time of his disappearance. In 1784, Judge Zephaniah Piatt (after whom Plattsburg was named) and thirty-two other proprietors, who had acquired rights to soldiers' bounties, under the State Act of 1781, located these rights upon the land embraced by De Fredenburg's warrant; as the title of the heirs of the latter to this tract was not established or recognized ; and laid out the town of Plattsburg. — (Palmer & Mather.) Plattsburg is celebrated as the scene of one the most important battles that occurred during the last war with Great Britain. We allude to the Battle of Plattsburg, and the simultaneous naval conflict, be- tween the squadrons of Commodore Downie and Commodore Mc- Donough, on the nth of Sept., 1814. In this battle, a force of 1,500 regulars, and about 2,500 militia, under General Macomb, defeated and routed a force of 14,000 well appointed and veteran troops, the victors of a hundred battle fields, led by Sir George Prevost ; and the fleet, under the command of Commodore McDonough, destroyed a force considerably its superior on the lake. The loss to the British land- forces, was more than 2,000, in killed, wounded, prisoners and desert- ers ; that of the Americans, not more than 150. On the lake, the English loss was about 1,000, in killed, wounded and prisoners ; that of the Americans no. The British commander, Commodore Downie, was killed in the naval action. — [Mather.] Trent Falls, an attractive locality 9 m. from Plattsburg, is reached by a pleasant drive. The Ausable Chasm may be visited from Plattsburg by a drive of about 12 m. By this route that sublime natural wonder is reached by a delightful carriage drive along the shore of Lake Champlain, winding through beautiful groves; and by fording the Ausable R. just above its mouth. Tourists en route to the Chasm, should pause, 3 m. from Plattsburg, at Hotel Champlain — the pride of this local- ity — ascend the observatory, and enjoy a beautiful and extended view of the lake, the Green Mountains, the Adirondacks and the surrounding country, including the State's Prison at Dannemora. In this excursion the drive might be pleasantly diversi- fied by a circuit over Hallock Hill, a delightful "look-out." FOUQUET HOUSE. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 2T3 The Chasm we shall describe in another connection. (See Route Twenty-fourth?) The drive around Cumberland Head over a fine road skirting the lake, of which an extensive view is constantly presented, should not be omitted. The hotels of Plattsburg have established high reputa- tions. The Fouquet House has long been a prominent institution of its kind, and familiarly known for scores of years to the traveling community. It is an elegant and spacious structure, not less imposing in its dimensions and position, than attractive by the novelty and beauty of its architecture. It is capable of accommodating many guests, and with style and elegance that are always satisfactory. The rooms are large and well ventilated, and supplied with every promotive of comfort and enjoyment. The grounds and flower garden, animate with beauty and redolent with fragrance, afford a most agreeable retreat. The broad piazzas on two sides of the house, and the promenade up- on the roof, offer a wide and delightful view of the lake, the battle-ground and the scene of the naval engagement; the village, the surrounding country, the Green Mountains on the E., and the Adirondacks at the S., presenting every variety of scenery; the wild, the picturesque, the grand. This hotel, by its beautiful and spacious grounds, and per- fect quiet, furnishes peculiarly safe and pleasant accommo- dations for the residence of ladies and children during the summer. The Cumberland House and Witherill's Hotel are both excellent and convenient houses, spacious in their arrange- ments, and calculated for the entertainment of a large number of guests. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Samuel de Champlain, the distinguished French officer, enthusiastic explorer, founder of Canada ("New Fiance") and its first Governor General, joined a war party of the Algonquins in an expedition from Quebec against the Iroquois, and on the 3d of July, 1609. entered up- on the waters of this "wilderness sea." The date is worthy of notice, as the discovery of Champlain occurred eleven years previous to the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, and a few weeks before Hendrick Hudson had reached the site of Albany, in the Half Moon, (about Sept. 16th.) The lake has received various names. Among 214 THE ADIRONDACKS. those applied to it in the aborginal dialects, were Pe ta-on-bougk, in allusion to the alternations in its scenery of land and water, or signifying "a double lake," referring to Lake George; and Can-i a de-ri Gua- runte, "the Door of the Country." Also, Rot-stich-ni, "the evil or coward spirit," whose existence, according to the legend, terminated on an island in this lake (Holden); and " Lake of Corlear," in honor of Arent Van Coilear, (the founder of Schenectady; ihe beneficient friend of the Mohawks,) who was drowned in its waters. The two white companions of the leading discoverer called it Champlain. The French afterwards designated it Irocoisia, and Lac des Iroquois, or Mere des Iroquois, " Mother of the Iroquois ;" but posterity, with greater justice, has restored the most appropriate name. Lake Champlain from Whitehall to St. Johns is one hun- dred and twenty miles in length, and is about thirteen miles in width, opposite Port Kent, at its broadest point. The narrow portion extending from Whitehall to Fort Ticon- deroga, the Indians styled Tsi-non-dro sa, " Tail of the Lake." The rare and exceeding beauty of this sheet at- tracts and entrances the observer. Travelers pronounce it to be unsurpassed in either hemisphere, in its peculiar combination of the picturesque and beautiful with impos- ing magnificence. On the eastern shore it is bordered by a highly cultivated country, bounded in the horizon by the irregular outline of the Green Mountains; on the west, the dark and towering Adirondacks, broken into dislocated groups, spread into the interior as far as the eye reaches, at points projecting their rugged spurs into the bosom of the lake, and often forming lofty headlands covered by dense forests, or presenting frowning masses of naked rocks. Choice ranges of table- land intervene occasionally, strikingly contrasting with the rude mountain scenery, by the richest agricultural improvements, and embellishment of pleasant villages. Numerous islands enhance the beauty of the scene. The scenery of the lake in the winter, when earth and ice are clothed in their pure dazzling mantle of snow, and the mountains, glow in the sun-beams like vast masses of opal, is indescribably beautiful and imposing. Lake Champlain will attain a far more momentous com- mercial attitude than it has ever occupied, if the magnifi- cent conception of uniting the waters of the St. Lawrence FORT TICONDEROGA. 215 with the Hudson by ship canals, of which the lake would be an important link, should be realized. Fort Ticonderoga is twenty- four miles from Whitehall. Champlain undoubtedly penetrated as far as this point, and probably visited Lake George. In this vicinity must have occurred the merciless battle with the Iroquois, — his first encounter with them, as leader of the Adirondacks (Algon- quins) — which he described with such graphic power in his journal, and an account of which will be found in all the recent histories of the region.* The massive and venerable ruins standing upon the bold, rocky summit of the promon- tory, — nearly 100 feet above the surface of the lake, — are viewed with peculiar advantage in the approach from the south. No spot on the continent is surrounded with a deeper and more thrilling interest. Not only from its ex- tensive majestic ruins and hoary age does it claim attention, but deep feeling is aroused by the fact that it has been held by the military power of three distinct nations, and is the common theatre of their glories and triumphs ; of their defeats and disasters. Its environs were the nursery of the heroes of-the Revolution. Most of the ramparts, the covered way, and walls of the edifices remain, and will attract and reward the researches of the tourist. The bakery, situated near the south-western angle of the barracks and beneath the glacis, is the best preserved portion of the works. Immedi- ately above the steamboat landing may be traced the "Grenadiers' Battery," at one period a formidable redoubt. The construction of the fortress at Ticonderoga (Ind.. Cheon-de ro ga, " Sounding Waters," or " Where the Waters meet;'' French, Carillon, "Chiming of the Bells," — alluding to the brawling waters amid the rocks in the outlet of Lake George,) was commenced in 1755, by the French. It was a place of great strength, both by nature and art. On three sides it is bounded by water, and about half of the other side is occupied by a deep morass. The line of defence was completed by the erection of a breast-work, nine feet high, on the only assailable ground. In 1758, Gen'I Abercrombie, wi.h a grand army, composed of British and provincial troops (16,000 strong,) passed down Lake George from Fort William Henry, with magnificent display, and made a bloody as- « Some ot the best authorities claim that this battle occurred near Crown Point. 2l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. sault on the fort, which was defended by the forces of Montcalm;* but was repulsed, with a loss of nearly 2,000, killed and wounded. Among the former was the noble and chivalrous Lord Howe, who was univer- sally beloved by the army. But the English, under the skillful leadership of the brilliant Lord Amherst, were more successful in 1759. A siege was commenced, and the garrison soon deciding that surrender would become unavoidable, hastily dismantled the works, and withdrew; leaving the fastness to the possession of the British, This was attributable to the necessity of joining Montcalm at Quebec. On the 10th of May, 1775, the bold and reckless exploit of Ethan All&n, secured this stronghold to the Americans. The following bit of history we are confident will be entirely new to nearly every reader: — It has been stated on seemingly good authority that just before the Revolution, Col. Allen frequently visited Fort Ticonderoga, and thus became very familiar with its situation and condition and well ac- quainted with the garrison. This knowledge subsequently proved to be of great advantage to him. Acting in accordance with the establish- ed rule that " Everything is fair in War," he visited the fortress, the day before the date set to attack it, and artfully induced a number of the troops to get several hours' leave of absence from their commander and to join him in a drinking bout at a tavern near the opposite shore of the lake. The plan worked to perfection. The soldiers accompanied "the Green Mountain Boy" to the appointed place, and became so inebriated by frequent potions of strong liquor, carefully mixed, that they remained in a drunken stupor through the entire night. In the meantime, the fort, — weakened by the absence of many of its defenders, — had been surprised and captured, "In the name of The Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." This was immediately followed bv the capture of Crown Point. (See p. 218.) In July, 1777, Ticonderoga was invested by the English host under Gen'l Burgoyne. Opposite, — on the S. side of the outlet of Lake George, and about 1,800 yards from the "Old Fort," — stands an emin- ence, over 700 feet in height, to appearance inaccessible, called Mount Defiance, (then " Sugar Loaf Hill,") where Burgoyne with a boldness, secrecy and dispatch almost unparalleled, conveyed a number of cannon, stores and troops. The artillery was raised by large brass tackles from tree to tree, and from rock to rock, over dens of rattlesnakes, to the summit, which entirely commanded the works of the fortification, and, with a battery of heavy guns, rendered them untenable. This circumstance must ever be considered as a full justification of General St. Clair's sudden retreat in the night time with the American * Montcalm is one of the most brilliant and heroic characters that glitter in our colonial history. His lame is obscured by one or two acts ol Imputed ferocity, from which It has never been successfully vindicated. Until Its glorious last act, (at Quebec) his life was one unbroken series of triumphs and successes.— [Watson.] Diiimc rin FORT TlCONDEROGA. FORT CROWN POINT. 217 army; and the observation which he made on his trial in his own de- fence that " though he had lost a post he had saved a state," was afterwards verified. — [Morse.] A heavy floating chain-bridge, 1,000 feet long, and an immense boom, erected across the lake to the fortified post at Mt. Independence (over which St. Clair retreated), was cut through in two hours. Upon hearing of the defeat and surrender of Gen'l Burgoyne, in Oct. 1777, the English garrison precipitately abandoned the fort and returned to Canada. Neither of the fortresses of Ticonderoga or Crown Point was occupied for any length of time after that event. The " New York & Canada R. R." commences at White- hall, extends along the W. shore of Lake Champlain, and terminates at Rouse's Point. It is but another link in the magnificent chain of routes controlled by the Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. As the traveler speeds along on this line he is entertained by a constant succession of charming landscapes, sublime mountain and entrancing lake pictures. A railroad has also been built from Ticonderoga to Lake George (Baldwin) (4^ m.) ; rendering a stage ride no longer necessary ; where the beautiful steamer Ticonderoga, or her consort, the Horicon, receives passengers and con- veys them through that peerless sheet. At Fort Ticonderoga the traveler, if weary of railroad traveling, may embark upon the Vermont, — one of the ma- jestic steamers of the Champlain Transportation Com- pany, — for Larabee's ; Crown Point ; Fort St. Fred- erick ; Port Henry ; Westport ; Essex ; Burlington ; Port Kent ; Port Jackson ; Bluff Point ; and Platts- burg ; or at Westport, on the new steel steamer Chateau- gay, for North Hero, or any of the intermediate points named, — both steamers forming a day line between these places, — and connecting with various railroad routes on their pas- sage. These vessels are models of elegance, neatness and convenience ; their tasteful furnishing is wholly of native wood, and they are regarded as second to few steamers that float on American waters. On the Vermont shore, the first landing, about two miles, is Larabee's Point. The traveler's attention is soon attracted by the ruins of Crown Point, (6 m. N. of the landing bearing that name) situated on the long and beautiful peninsula projecting into 19 2i8 THE ADIRONDACKS. the lake from the western shore. The extremity of this promontory is picturesquely decked with a stone light- house. A. part of the enormous barracks and fortifications are in good preservation, and although not tinged with any of the romance that entrances one at Carillon, are interest- ing as memorials of more than a century ago. The old French redoubt,— styled Fort St. Frederick, in honor of Fred- erick Maurepas, Premier of France, — was erected on the steep banks of the lake in 1731. Now, only the remnant of a wall, and a heap of rubbish are seen to remind one of its former existence. This cape was denominated "Point de la Couronne" by the French, and Tek-ya-dough- nig-a-ri-ga: — " two points opposite to each other" — by the Indians. The place opposite, on the eastern shore, presenting a bold bluff, was called by the early Dutch, " Crum Point ; " by the French, — who occu- pied it as a military post, beginning with 1631, — "Point a la Cheveleurf and by the present generation, Chimney Point, — deriving its name from the remains of pie-historic habitations found there by the settlers. From the testimony of ancient travelers, especially of Kalm, the Swede, and the vestiges remaining, in the form of a McAdamized street, lined with nagging sidewalks, well-worn ; and the ruins of numerous cellar-walls, it is evident that a flourishing French village, with a popu- lation of perhaps 3,000 people, once existed at Crown Point, under the " protecting wings " of Fort St Frederick, where not a single original house now stands. In fact, a large area of the surrounding country shows unmistakable indications that it was thickly populated at an early period. — (Watson & Hough.) Immediately after Fort St. Frederick fell into the hands of the Eng- lish, in 1759, the construction of Fort Crown Point was commenced by Lord Amherst, within 175 yards (S. W.) of the former structure.* It became the most extensive and magnificent fortress in America ; cost- ing the British Government about $10,000,000. The walls, of solid masonry, 25 feet thick and 25 feet high, formed a circuit of ^ m., en- closing the officers' quarters, a double row of stone barracks, — intended for the possible use of 2,000 troops, — and a grand parade ground. Sur- rounding the works was a broad and deep trench, cut through the solid rock with immense labor and expense. On the N. side was a massive gate, a strong draw-bridge and a covered way to the water of the lake. (Spafford ) At Fort St. Frederick Landing, the Champlain Transpor- tation Co. has made many improvements, — including suita- ble walks; also a commodious cafe and pavilion, for the convenience and entertainment of passengers desiring to visit the ruins of the forts. •It is said that this place was called Crown Pt., because the Indian allies of the French, made many scalping excursions trom Fort St. Frederick. .SUINS OF FORT CROWN POINT. "the cloven rock." lake champlain. 219 Two miles across Bulwagga Bay, the boat reaches Port Henry. At the south appear the rough acclivities of Bulwagga Mountain, the beginning of the Kayadarosseras Range. The village, pleasantly situated, is the site of one of the most extensive iron works in the region and con- tiguous to a vast mineral district. After leaving Port Henry the mountain views on each side of the lake begin to unfold to the tourist, in their beauty and grandeur; Dix's Peak and Giant of the Valley being most prominent in the Adirondack group. Bald Mountain, standing midway between Port Henry and West- port, is easily accessible, and from its isolated position and proximity to the water affords a rich panoramic view of the lake for an extent of fifty miles, and of the Vermont shore with surrounding mountains on every side. Near the base of the mountain lie the "Adirondack Springs." Westport, a pleasant village, is ten miles from Port Hen- ry. The spires _of Vergennes, in the east, are soon percei- ved. The lake again contracts in breadth and at its nar- rowest point are the ruins of Fort Cassin, at the mouth of Otter Creek {Riviere aux Loutres,) the largest river in Ver- mont, and navigable eight miles to Vergennes. To this place, the steam-yacht, 'Water Lily," runs daily from West- port, connecting with the steamer Vermont; and stopping at Fort Cassin, en route. On the opposite side of the lake is Split Rock Mountain (the northernmost summit of the East Moriah or Scarron Range,) with a light-house at the extremity. In front of this is a remarkable formation called by the French "Roche Rendu," ("Cut or Broken Rock") and now known as Split Rock, but originally called, with much better taste and far more euphony, "The Cloven Rock." A point of the mountain, which projected about 50 yards' into the lake, appears to have been de- tached by some convulsion of nature. It is separated from the main land by a fissure 10 feet wide, and the opposite sides so exactly suit each other that one needs no other proof of their having been once united. It contains about half-an-acre of earth and rock, (covered with trees,) rising nearly 30 feet, in a bold and vertical front. One can occa- sionally walk through this chasm, though its floor is usually occupied by the water of the lake. 220 THE ADIRONDACK^. Round this point is a spacious bay sheltered from the south and northwest winds by the surrounding hills and woods. On the west side are four or five finely cultivated farms, which at certain seasons and in certain situations form one of the most beautiful landscapes imaginable. Sailing under this coast for several miles before you come to Cloven Rock, the mountains, rude and barren, seem to hang over the passenger and threaten destruction. A water, boundless to the sight lies before him. Man feels his own littleness and infidelity itself pays an unwilling homage to the Creator. Instantly and unexpectedly the scene changes; and peeping with eager eye through the cleft, nature pre- sents to the view a silver basin, a verdant lawn, a humble cottage, a golden harvest, a majestic forest, a lofty moun- tain, and an azure sky, rising one above another in just gradation to the amazing whole. — (Morse ) Split Rock Park, (3 m. S of Essex) embracing 400 acres, and presenting a grand lake frontage of nearly 2 m (largely on Whallon's Bay), is a pleasant resort. "The " Split Rock Cottage " offers good entertainment to visitors. Essex, twelve miles from Westport, is a pretty village, delightfully located. A few miles north of this place al- most hidden from observation by overhanging trees and bushes, is the mouth of Bouquet River, a stream of great industrial value and interest, entering the lake at the foot of the long peninsula on the west shore, now called Willsboro Point — a charming summer resort. This was the site of the pioneer Gilliland's Colony, (whose history is so very pathetic) and the scene of Burgoyne's noted treaty with the Indians a dozen years later. Here settlement was commenced in 1765, under the auspices of Wil- liam Gilliland, a wealthy, intellectual, energetic and estimable mer- chant of New York. His purchases in this locality, embraced nearly 4000 acres, extending from the river (Bouquet) almost to Cloven Rock ; reached three to four miles into the interior ; and presented a superb lake frontage of more than six miles. Subsequently he bought other tracts on the lake, between Westport and Plattsburg, comprising many thousand acres ; forming altogether a princely domain. Gilliland at first designed to lay the foundation of a vast baronial estate ; and hence he sold no land, but leased it on the most favorable terms. Several miles of the lake shore were settled, mills were built and schools established. He held a justice's commission, and for many years was ' THE MANOR OF WILLSBOROUGH. 22 1 ihe only judicial authority. The Revolution came, and with it, de- struction. Although Gilliland and his colonists ardently embraced the American cause, materially aiding Montgomery's advance in Canada, by furnishing provisions, and on the return of his shattered army, affording relief to the sick and wounded ; notwithstanding he assisted Arnold in the prosecution of his designs to the extent of his ability, yet in return for these kindnesses, by an arbitrary stretch of power, his dwellings, mills and stores were destroyed ; nearly reducing him to poverty. This splendid manor was wasted by both friends and foes ; and finally, when Burgoyne swept up Champlain like an avalanche, the ruin of the settlement was completed by the English army. Driven to despair, he petitioned Congress for relief, to which he was certainly en- titled ; but that body claimed to have no money to meet his losses. Shameless reward for generous, and patriotic services ! For sometime Gilliland was confined in New York City for debt ; but, regaining his freedom, he returned to his desolated colony, — the scene of his ill-fated enterprises, of his joys and his woes — and endeavored to retrieve his waning fortunes. Relinquishing all ideas of manorial greatness, he offered his lands for sale ; but new disappointments, adverse lawsuits and treacherous friends soon dissipated the remnant of his wealth and brought his existence to a miserable close. Becoming partially deranged by his misfortunes, he wandered into the wilderness and perished of hunger and exposure. And now nothing remains to remind one of the departed splendor or to commemorate the name of this noble but un- fortunate pioneer, except the town of Wili.sborough. — [Dr. Hotigh in Fr. Gaz.) From a chasm near Port Kendall, a stream leaps 40 feet into Willsboro Bay. The four islands directly in front of Willsboro Pt., rep- resenting the cardinal points of the compass, were called by the English, "The Four Brothers;" and by the French, Les Isles des Quatres Vents, "The Islands of the Four Winds." Near this beautiful cluster the last desperate battle between Arnold and Carlton's fl.-ets occurred, in the Revolutionary War. Nearly opposite, upon one of the highest peaks of the Green Mountains, will be observed a very striking object, which seems like the effigy of a reposing lion, carved on the imperishable rock. The French called the mountain Lion Couchant, "The Crouching Lion"; but it is now de- graded into the name of Camel's Hump. We now ap- proach Rock Dunder, which appears almost to interpose in the steamer's track. It is a dark, naked rock, rising in a perfect cone more than thirty feet above the water. Re- 222 THE ADIRONDACKS. cent researches seem to identify it with the "Greek Rock Reggio," so prominent in the colonial archives, and accord- ing to the remote traditions of the Mohawks, a grand land- mark in past ages in the boundary line between their domains and the country of ths Algonquins or Adirondacks. They long preserved the story that a great chief — ages before the advent of the pale faces — named Reggio, was drowned at its base, and from him the rock and the lake were called Reggio, or Re-gi-och-ne. Just on the left is the light-house upon Juniper Island, and on the right hand Shelburn Bay, a long and narrow sheet of water extending four miles inland. Here is situated the harbor and ship- yard of the Champlain Transportation Company, where their steamers are built ; and here their condemned hulks are collected, dismantled and left to decay. The fine stock-farm, and summer residence of Dr. W. Seward Webb are in the neighborhood. The elegant, spacious mansion of Col. LeGrand B. Can- non, occupying a conspicuous eminence immediately south of Burlington, commands particular notice. Burlington is one of the most beautiful and prosperous cities of New England, and its commanding position and great beauty are presented from the lake- with peculiar advantage. Most of the streets are shaded by stately trees, and lined by many elegant edifices, embowered with trees and shrubbery. The "Van Ness," the "American," and the "Burlington" are the leading hotels. In the Green Mt. Cemetery, — which has a most sightly situation — lie the remains of Ethan Allen. His monu- ment (about 45 ft. high) is surmounted by a statue of the redoubtable hero of Ticonderoga. A short distance N. of the steamboat landing is the sumptuous club-house of the Lake Champlain Yacht Club. In the transit of ten miles between Burlington and Port Kent, the lover of nature will contemplate her works re- vealed in exquisite loveliness and in the wildest sublimity. The lake, studded with headlands and islands, expands on every side in the richest panorama. On one, the eye traces the outline of the Green Mountains half the length of Vermont, and on the other spread the Adirondacks, thrown STEAMER VERMONT, LAKE CHAMPLAIN. or o O u < X O BURLINGTON. PORT KENT. 223 into chaotic groups, with some of their highest summits lifted into the distant horizon. Douglas Bay lies on the left, and N. of Willsboro Pt. It was formerly called "Corlear's Bay," from the belief that, the distinguished philanthropist, Arent Van Corlear, was drowned in the vicinity. The Bay View House, at Port Douglas, is a lovely resort with picturesque environment. It is reached by D. & H. R. R and also by steamer. Sojourners here should not fail to visit Buttermilk Falls; a charming spot not far away. A little farther N. is Schuyler's Island (Fr. "Isle Chapon") which at an early period was occupied as an encampment by Schuyler. Point Trembleau, on the main-land, is one of the few poetical names preserved from the French nomenclature. With this bold, rocky promontory terminates the most im- portant of the five mountain chains — the Clinton or Adirondack Range. The view from Port Kent is among the most beautiful and extensive upon the lake. The large stone mansion (copy of a French chateau), with massive pillars, stand- ing upon the elevated ground was the former residence of Elkanah Watson, and subsequently of his worthy de- scendant, the late Winslow C. Watson, the able historian of Essex County. The passage of fifteen miles to Platts- burg is crowded with objects of great historic interest. On the pine plain 1 y z m. N. was the site of Amherst's brief encampment in 1759. The little island almost touching Valcour Island on the south is called Garden Island, from the tradition that it was occupied by the French and English naval officers for the cultivation of culinary vege- tables. At the southern extremity of Valcour, just in front of a tiny grass plat, lie the still perceptible remains of the Royal Savage, a large schooner of twelve guns, sunk in Arnold's battle. {Railroad from Port Kent to Ausable Chasm and Keeseville. ) While passing down the lake the attentive tourist may have observed what seemed to be a mere white speck, per- haps a score of miles away, perched upon the crest of a bold eminence rising abruptly from the western shore. On 224 THE ADIRONDACK^. approaching nearer it gradually increased in size and finally assumed the grand proportions of a magnificent structure — the most conspicuous feature in a landscape of surpassing loveliness. This is Hotel Champlain, the summer-palace of the north. Its situation is simply superb. It stands on the summit of Bluff Point, 3 miles south of Plattsburg and within 40 rods of the station on the Delaware- & Hudson Railroad. The place is rich in historical reminiscences. This lofty promontory overlooks Cumberland Bay, the scene of McDonough's victory in 18 14 ; also the narrow strait between Valcour Island and the main-land rendered famous by Arnold's naval engagement in 1776. It com- mands a view of wondrous beauty and sublimity. By as- cending the central dome of the hotel, (125 ft. above the base, 325 ft. above the water, and 421 ft. above the level of the sea) we will be rewarded by one of the finest pros- pects the continent affords. And what a spectacle here greets the eye ! In the east is seen the Green Mountain group ; Mansfield towering majestically above all the others ; while spread immediately before us is the silvery sheen of Lake Champlain — 50 miles of water — embellished with numerous beautiful islands ; to the west are disclosed Mt. Lyon and Averill's Peak ; in the south-west are re- vealed the noble forms of Whiteface, Hurricane, Giant of the Valley, Dix's' Peak, the Gothics, Haystack and Mcln- tyre, and — uplifted above the heads of his princely com- peers, — the mighty crown of Tahawus, the chief of the Ad- irondack Range. Lovely intervales of fertile land are in- terspersed in this circuit of 300 miles, giving agreeable va- riety to the picture. The environing scenery is wild and romantic. A large portion of the grounds is occupied by a forest primeval, with its weird recesses, picturesque cliffs, and elevated pla- teaus. A model among specimens of colonial architecture is the stately edifice forming the subject of this sketch. Want of space precludes our entering into full details. Enough to say that in the construction, decoration and equipment of this vast establishment, nothing regarding comfort, luxury and grandeur was omitted. Every appliance known to archi- n x > g r- > HOTEL CHAMPLAIN. 225 tects for the modern furnishing and beautifying of a hotel was adopted. No effort was spared to render it capable of meeting the requirements of every traveler — even the most fastidious. Broad piazzas (20 ft. in width) offering cool re- treats and charming outlooks, nearly encircle the building. Here the visitor will sit and watch with peculiar interest , the white-winged yachts, and the sumptuous steamers of the Champlain Transportation Company, sailing by. The house is supplied with the purest water ; the drainage and sanitary conditions are perfect, the service is excellent, and the cuisine is the best that experienced caterers, and the markets of Boston and New York can 'produce. A num- ber of large cottages, built and furnished in harmony with the hotel, are embowered in the pine grove near by. Hotel Champlain, with its annexes, provides for over 500 guests. It has extraordinary facilities for recreation. Among the many sources of varied diversions may be mentioned bowl- ing, billiards, lawn tennis, boating, and fishing, besides de- lightful bathing by the famous "Golden Beach of the Sing- ing Sands." A net work of terraced foot- ways, drive- ways and bridle paths, really bewildering in their intricacy, gives unusual opportunities for rambling and riding through scenes of varied beauty. So ingeniously are these avenues constructed that one may travel a dozen miles or more without leaving the grounds, consisting of 363^ acres The hotel and this natural park (whose interspersing lawns are brightened by fountains and flowers) are lighted by the Westinghouse system of incandescent electric lights. The roads leading in different directions are in excellent condition and afford easy communication with many inter- esting localities in the neighborhood. A perfectly equipped livery supplies guests with every needed conveyance. In accessibility, Hotel Champlain is unsurpassed by any summer resort ; being reached by cars and steamers over delightful lines of travel. Thus this remarkable combina- tion of attractions renders a sojourn at this caravanserai, a season of delight. It is largely patronized by people of social prominence of- both America and Europe. It is under the personal supervision of Mr. O. D. Seavy, the ac- complished and nationally known manager of the celebrated Hotel Ponce de Leon, at St. Augustine, Fla. 226 THE ADIRONDACKS. Since the foregoing- was written, in order to accommo- date the annually increasing number of. visitors, a grand and imposing annex, 66 x 112 feet, 5 stories, in height, con- taining 100 sleeping rooms, 4 parlors and 21 private bath- rooms has been erected. A covered passage-way, 100 feet long and 15 feet wide, with glass sides, connects this edifice with the main building. Midway of this, is an elegant dancing and amusement pavilion, 32 feet square. All the apartments are finished in natural wood and equipped in perfect consonance with the principal structure. Oh the top of the combined structures are 7 enormous water-tanks, each holding 2,000 gallons, to insure safety in case of fire. This establishment as completed, is truly the perfection of comfort and luxuriousness. (P. O., Hotel Champlain, N. Y.) Crab Island, (St. Michael of the French, and known for a time as Hospital Island, from the fact that the wounded of both fleets in 18 14 were placed upon it,) lies north of Val- cour. Between this island and the peninsula of Cumber- land Head is the theatre of MacDonough's victory in the war of 1812. A mile south of Plattsburg is noticed the modern government barracks. The old forts and canton- ment were located between the new barracks and the village. The trip between Plattsburg and Rouse's Point presents aspects unlike any other section of the lake, but is still peculiarly pleasant and beautiful. The steamboat landing is immediately contiguous to the depots of the Montreal & Plattsburg and Delaware & Hudson Railroads. Not stopping at this important and interesting village, (Platts- burg) to which we shall return, we proceed with a chartered steamer on her route to Rouse's Point. After passing Cumberland Head, we leave the broad expansion of water, the rocky cliffs and stern promontories, but threading a more confined and placid channel, we are delighted with a view of the rich and luxuriant shores of the islands of Ver- mont and the main-land of New York, with the scenery of the remote mountains on either side softened by distance. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. CHAZY LAKE. 227 Cumberland Head, {Cap Scrononton, of ihe French) three miles from Plattsburg, is a prominent landmark of the lake, and an interesting point in its annals. On the east stretches Grand Isle, the largest island in the lake, and one of the most fertile and lovely places in Vermont. Twelve miles beyond Cumberland Head- is Isle La Motte. This island and Point Au Fer on the western shore, a little north, were occupied as important military positions, both- in the Colonial and Revolutionary War. Little and Big Chazy Rivers enter the lake a short distance south of Point Au Fer. The projection from the Vermont shore, nearly east of the north extremity of Isle La Motte, is Alburgh Tongue, distinguished by the French as Pointe Algonquin. The entrance to the beautiful Missisquoi Bay will be ob- served east of this point. Eight miles beyond Isle La Motte, on the eastern shore, is situated Windmill Point. The French erected at this place a large stone mill in 1 73 1 . This fact originated its name. Directly opposite is the vil- lage of Rouse's Point, and a mile beyond are the steamboat •landing and the "depots of the Montreal & St. John's, Dela- ware & Hudson, and Ogdensburg & Lake Champi.ain Railroads, where cars are also taken over the Central Vt. R. R., to the White Mountains, Boston, &c. [ Wat- son's Essex Co., and Champlain Valley] It should be stated that to the angler, this lake offers great opportunities. Indeed, no body of water in America furnishes better sport. The principal fishes, are black bass, Oswego bass, yellow and pike-perch and pickerel. It also affords superb resources for the yachtman. Parties traversing Lake Champlain or the Delaware & Hudson R. R., find Plattsburg a most available point of entrance to the woods. Before examining the principal routes from Plattsburg to the Great Forest, we will make one or two pleasant excur- sions to numerous Wilderness lakes, by private conveyance. Of these the drive to Clinton Prison at Dannemora (16 m.) over a plank road, and thence to Chazy Lake (5 m.,) is es- pecially agreeable. 228 THE ADIRONDACKS The " prison in the woods," together with the adjacent village, occupy an eminence 1,700 feet high ; but the ascent is so gradual as to be hardly observable. From this eleva- tion is seen an embodiment of landscape loveliness, upon which the eye dwells with never-failing delight. In the east, the horizon is bounded by the Green Mountains looming up dim and blue ; Lake Champlain in queenly beauty stretching far away, cultivated lands richly diversi- fied, and the silver thread of the Saranac, gracefully curving through its emerald plains, cover the intervening space ; toward the S. W. the imposing architecture of the Adirondacks, rising in Doric sublimity from forests seem- ingly without limit, fill the remainder of the picture. A more glorious view is seldom witnessed even from moun- tain tops. The Clinton House at Dannemora supplies all the requi- sites to travelers. The road thence to Chazy Lake (pronounced Sha-zee) was constructed by the State and is in excellent condition. This important body of water (4 x 1^) was named in honor of the unfortunate French nobleman, the youthful Sieur Chazy, who was murdered by the Indians in 1666, near where its outlet — Chazy R. — enters Lake Champlain, opposite Isle la Motte. Chazy L. is justly renowned for its attractiveness to the sportsman and to the admirer of nature's picturesque beauties.* Trout in satisfactory numbers and of superior quality, inhabit its deep pellucid waters, and scenery the most charming invests its environs. It is framed in a circle of majestic peaks — Rand Hill, rising with gentle slope from the pebbly beach; Mt's John- son, Ellenburg and others. The most important of these Mt. Lion — oftenest called Mt. Lyon — (whose peculiar form strikingly suggests the figure of the " king of beasts " in couchant attitude, as if about to spring upon his prey,) rises from the shores in proud conspicuousness. Its broad, level summit, isolated as it is, affords one of the finest points of view in the entire region. It is reached "Walls of Potsdam sandstone bordering the shores, to large extent, present a most singular appearance. MT. LYON. SARANAC FALLS. 229 by an easy route from the R. R. station at the head of the lake. Road 2 m ; trail i*4 m. The route to Averill Peak (named from H. K. Averill, Jr., the distinguished surveyor of Plattsburg) 1 m. S. W., lies over Mt. Lyon and is reached thence by 40 minutes' walk. That also furnishes a remarkable view. The Chazy Lake House, located on the E. side, between Eagle and Half-way Point, is a delightful resort, affording every comfort and facility required by tourists. Bradley Pond, (unimportant) 2 m. W., is reached by wagon road; thence a road extends westward 3 m. to Upper Chateaugay Lake. The steam-yacht "Julia," meets every train at Chazy Lake Station and conveys guests to and from Chazy Lake House. Distance, 2j^ m.; fare, 50 cts. ( It will be observed that Dannemora, Chazy and the Chateaugay Lakes are most conveniently visited via the Chateaugay Railroad.) The route of the tourist to Dannemora and Chazy Lake is a branch of the main road forking- at Elsinore, a village about 1 2 m. W. of Plattsburg. This highway, passing through a romantic section of country, generally overlooks the Saranac R. and crosses several of its picturesque branches. At the Great Falls of the Saranac, near Russia and Saranac villages, 18 m. from Plattsburg, the scenery is especially replete with grandeur and varied beauty. Thence to Red- ford it is 4 m.; Clayburgh — within J^ m. of Saranac Forks — 2 m. Here the route, thus far an excellent one, divides ; following the two branches of the Saranac over poor roads. The N. Branch road leads to Petersburg, y 2 m.; thence to "Hunter's Home," (where Paul Smith first located,) situated on N. Saranac, 11 m. (within 1 y 2 m. of Loon Lake House by the Malone road); J. M. Wardner's 9 m., at Rainbow Lake (3 x i/i). By the S. Branch road from Saranac Forks to Silver Lake (3 x 1), a beautiful sheet, it is $% m. and the same distance to Union Falls by the divergent road, the two again uniting at Union Falls, 3 m. W. of the lake. Here 230 THE ADIRONDACKS. the Saranac shoots with great velocity through a narrow gorge forming the cascade thus named — a most interesting spectacle. A short distance S. E. of Silver L., and about 8 m. N. W. of Black Brook, is Taylor P. (Crystal Lake), a picturesque loch, with sandy points and secluded bays, lying in the shadow of Catamount Mt., (Ind., "Thi-pac). From Union Falls to Franklin Falls it is 8 m.; thence to Bloomingdale, 8 m. Two railroads extend from Plattsburg towards and into the Wilderness : — 1. The Ausable branch of the Delaware & Hudsqn. By this railway to Point of Rocks, {Ausable Station,) it is 20 m., where passengers will find stages in waiting to convey them to Keene Valley, 22 m. S., via Lower and Upper Jay; and to Lake Placid, 26 m. S. W., via Wilmington, and Wihning- ton Pass. {Later. Stages now run only from Ausable Forks to Keene Valley, and to Bloomingdale, except on special order; none from Ausable Station.) From Point of Rocks, over a good plank road, to Ausa- able Forks, 3 m.; Black Brook, 4 m.;* French's Hotel, 11 m.;f Franklin Falls, 3 m. (Franklin House. Travelers dine here or at French's); Bloomingdale, 8 m.; Lower Saranac Lake, 8 m. Total from Ausable Station, 37 m. From Bloomingdale it is 13 m. to Upper Saranac Lake; 9 m. to Paul Smith's, and 7 m. to Rainbow Lake. In this approach occasional glimpses are enjoyed of the gigantic forms of the Adirondack Range. *Fern Lake, (2x1,) possessing considerable beauty, and many pickerel and gamy bass, lies about 2 m. N. E. of Black Brook. tWhlteface Mt. is ascended from French's. Carriages convey parties to within 2 m. of the summit. Total distance from the hotel, ay, m. Fare for each person, the round trip, $2; guide for party, S3 extra. " < Z O o -1 LOON LAKE HOUSE. 23 1 2. The Chateaugay R. R. which terminates at Lower Saranac Lake (73 m.). This picturesque line of travel was built to give an outlet to the extensive beds of iron ore being worked by the Chateaugay Iron Co., at Rogersfield. (Lyon Mt.) It passes through some of the wildest and most romantic scenery this side of the Rocky Mt's.; and affords the easiest, speediest, and hence the now favorite mode of transit from Plattsburg to the Adiron- dacks. By this railway we reach the following famous resorts : Dannemora (17^ m.); Chazy Lake (28^ m ); Lyon Mt. (34 m.; Stage thence to Upper Chateaugay Lake, 3^ m.j; Loon Lake (54 m ; Stage to Loon Lake House, 3 m); Rainbow (60 m.; Stage to Rainbow Lake House, 3 m.); Bloomingdale Sta. (64 m.; Stage to Bloomingdale, 2 m.; Stage from Bloomingdale Sta. to Paul Smith's, 6 m ; to Saranac Inn, ii m.); Lower Saranac Lake (73 m.) (See pp. 206, 228). LOON LAKE HOUSE. This summer haunt, which suddenly sprang into exis- tence and public favor, is worthy of more than a passing notice. In 1878, an enterprising man of Essex Junction, Vt. — Mr. Ferd. W. Chase — discovered that a "forest re- treat" was lacking at Loon Lake, and decided to erect one there. Accordingly, in the fall of that year, he laid the foundation of his rustic lodge, and completed it in time for the season of 1879. This building (now a wing of the main hotel) constructed of hewn logs, two stories high, with verandas entirely encircling it, was placed on a command- ing plateau, 8 or 10 rods from the shore, on the south- eastern end of this beautiful lake. Mr. Chase's enterprise was rewarded by such success that the first season he was unable to provide for all who applied for entertainment, though the house could accommodate 100. But each sea- son since has found him with extensive additions to his buildings, enabling him to satisfy much better the demands of increasing numbers. The season of 1893 finds the 232 THE ADIRONDACKS. capacity and desirability of this resort still further in- creased by the erection of a large annex, — an imposing structure of artistic style and proportions, — costing with its equipment, nearly $ 30,000. It is 100 ft. in length and finished in native oak throughout. A spacious veranda surrounds one story. It has 24 fire-places, is generally heated by steam and designed for winter, as well as sum- mer occupancy. The rooms in the Loon Lake House, especially in the new structure, are large, high, well lighted and ventilated, and also decorated in admirable taste ; the furniture, — frequently elegant, — is all appropriate ; and in equipping the entire establishment, — including several handsome and commodious cottages, — every attention has been paid to the pleasure and comfort of guests. The great experience of Mr. C. has made him familiar with the wants and wishes of his patrons. Thus all the appoint- ments, (including sanitary arrangements) are up to the highest standard. A mountain-spring furnishes an abund- ant supply of pure running water. The table is exception ally excellent, affording remarkable variety. Connected with the premises is a superior farm that furnishes fresh eggs, milk and vegetables in abundance. Nearly every kind of out-door diversion, is provided for the enjoyment of visitors. Tents, hammocks, boats, guides, etc., furnished on reasonable terms. Post office, ("Loon Lake, N. Y."), and telegraph in the main house. The lake (2^ x 3^) is of peculiar form, — the banks of its " narrows " approaching within 90 feet of each other, almost forming two separate bodies of water, an upper and a lower lake, — and is surrounded by a rich growth of green forest, with no marsh near to impair its attractiveness. The irregular, rocky shores, with a solitary picturesque island, render it exceedingly romantic; and the glistening, silvery beaches are a fitting inner frame to its many at- tractions. From the observatory of the principal structure we enjoy a magnificent prospect of the Green Mts. of Vermont and several of the lofty peaks of the Adironacks, including the far-famed Whiteface. This locality is of" considerable elevation, furnishing persons suffering from " Hay Fever " with almost instant relief. To pleasure THE LOON LAKE DISTRICT. 233 parties or invalids who would enjoy pure mountain air, fine scenery, shade-grounds in their natural state, and desire to pass the summer months at a retreat at once pleasant, retired and healthful, no Wilderness resort offers better in- ducements. Indeed, this extensive hostelry, with its ca- pacity for 500 guests, has become one of the best patronized of any in the Great Forest; and well merits its repute, as it stands second to none. Sportsmen will find several kinds of game abundant in the neighborhood, "including deer, ducks, and ruffed grouse (partridges.) Speckled-trout fishing is excellent in various streams and ponds, easily reached. Loon Lake itself is famous for large fish. Three speckled trout were taken from it atone time in the fall of 1871, by Mr. A. Washburn, a. noted hunter living near, weighing respectively, 3^, 4 and 4j4 lbs. Still this sheet is not overstocked with such "fellows." To Goldsmith's P. it is 4 m. by road; Elbow P.. 4 m. by portage; Grass P., 3 m. (2 m. by boat); Plumadore P., 8 m. (4 m. good road, remainder bad); Wolf P., 10 m.; Howe's P., 1 m ; Turner's P., 2 m.; Mountain P., 5*4 m.; Buck P., 6% m.; Marsh P., 4^ m.; Otter P., 1 m.; Duck P., 7 m.; Beef P., 2% m.; Pork Barrel P., 2}4 m.; Chub P., 2 m.; Catamount P., 1% m.; and Alder Brook, 4 m. Water Route from Loon Lake House to Wardner's and Paul Smith's. Loon Lake, i^m; outlet, 1 m; portage, % m.; Mud P., J^ m.; river, % m.; portage, 5 rods; Round P., j4 m.; river, 2 m.; Lily Pad P., y 2 m.; river, ^ m.; Rainbow Lake, 3 m.; river, % m.; portage to Wardner's, % m.; road, 1 m.; Jones' P., ij^ m; outlet, ij^ m; Osgood P., 2 m; portage to Paul Smith's, % m. Total, 17^ m. Loon Lake may be reached by livery from Malone (29 m.), if any one prefers that tedious mode to railroad travel- ing. The Chateaugay Railroad offers the quickest and pleasantest route to Loon Lake from the east and south- east. Tourists arriving at Plattsburg on the D. & H. train 234 THE ADIRONDACKS. in the morning, can reach Loon Lake in two hours, and Paul Smith's in about three hours by this line. At the famous resorts now reached by this route, New York morning papers are received the same day. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway offers to tourists coming from the north, west and south the most delightful way of reaching the most important Adirondack resorts, over a wildly romantic and picturesque route. These two railroads form a junction at Loon Lake Station, 3 miles from Loon Lake House, where the hotel stage meets every train. Fare, 75 cts. Travelers on the Chat- eaugay line, bound for Rainbow Lake ( Wardner's), Paul Smith's, Upper Saranac Lake (Saranac Inn), Tupper Lake, &*c, should change, at this station, and take cars on the Adirondack 6° St. Lawrence R. R. Distances from Loon Lake, miles. To Malone, (via Adirondack & St. Law. R. R.) 25 " Malone, (via Ausable Forks Road) 29 " Mountain View House, (via A. & St. Law. R. R.) 12 " Duane, (Ladd's) (via Ausable Forks Road) - 14 " "Hunter's Home," - 1^ " Ausable Forks, - - - 23 " Ausable Station, ... 2 6 " Ausable Chasm, - 37 " Plattsburg, (via Chateaugay R. R.) 54 " Chazy Lake " " " - 25^ " Lyon Mt. " " " 20 '' Upper Chateaugay Lake, " - - 23^ " Rainbow Lake, (Wardner's) (via A. & St. L. R. R.) 9 " Paul Smith's (road, 18 m ; water, 171^ m.;) via Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R.. - 15^ " Lake Clear, (Junction Saranac Branch) i6j^ " Lower Saranac Lake, (via Chateaugay R. R ) 19 " Upper Saranac Lake, (Bartlett's) (via Adiron- dack & St. Lawrence R. R.) - - 28^ " Upper Saranac Lake, (Saranac Inn) (via Adiron- dack & St. Lawrence R. R.) - 20}^ " Lake Placid, (via railroad) 28 " Tupper Lake Junction, (via A. & St. L. R. R.) 34^ > 5 u < z < < z o u z ai U wardner's. rainbow lake. 235 From Loon Lake House to Merrillsville, on the Ausable Forks road, it is 2^ m. S.; thence to Vermontville, diver- ging from the main road and passing S. over Cape Mt., 5 m.; Bloomingdale 3 m. Total, ioj4 m. Wardner's forest home — the Rainbow Inn — is emi- nently calculated to answer the requirements of seekers after rest, health, sport or scenic beauty. It is emphatically desirable to those who would avoid the bustle and expense of the larger hotels; and people are becoming aware of all this, as each year brings an increased number of visitors. Situated in the immediate vicinity of a charming group of lakes and lakelets, (offering 12 miles of uninterrupted navi- gation,) and furnishing the best accommodations at the most moderate rates, it is not surprising that it is thus rapidly growing in public esteem. The table is supplied in a bountiful and substantial manner, (fresh eggs, milk, butter, and vegetables coming from the connecting farm,) not to name the various dainties that the forest and cities give; the rooms are neat, pleasant and home-like, and every reasonable comfort is afforded. Has capacity for 60 guests. Mr. Wardner and his brother Seth located at this place about 1850, when the region was an unbroken wilderness and almost as obscure as the interior of Patagonia. Perhaps, a score of bears and a thousand deer have been destroyed by his unerring gun within that period. His long experience in forest life, renders him a most suitable conductor of such an establishment. Nor should we omit to call attention to Mrs. Wardner's talent as a taxidermist, a most important matter to those desiring to have the trophies of their skill properly dressed and mounted. This locality is especially attractive to sportsmen, for in few places are the trout finer, larger or more abundant. The waters most noted for angling purposes are Rainbow L. (named from its shape) Jones P., Round P. (ij4 x 1), Buck P. (1 x %), Lily Pad P. (% x j/ 3 ), Elbow P. (^ x %), and Plumadore P. Besides these, there is excellent fish- ing in the N. Branch of the Saranac, from " Hunter's Home " to the head of the stream — about 3 m. above Rain- bow L. — and also in Jones Inlet. Nigger Brook, North Branch, Cold Brook, Rainbow L. and Round P. abound in 236 THE ADIRONDACKS. superior " lakers " — frequently attaining enormous pro- portions, especially in the latter sheet. It was in Round Pond that the largest salmon trout on record was caught, reaching the extraordinary weight of 52 lbs. The Quack- enbush party of Troy were the lucky captors of this monster. This sheet has recently been styled " Lake Kushaqua," (Ind.) and the station with this name, on the A. & St. L. R. R. is near the shores. Most of the lakes and ponds named, including Loon L., are linked together by the North Branch of the Saranac. Plumadore and Elbow Ponds flow into Salmon R.; Jones' feeds Osgood P. and that Meacham Lake. (See pp. 186, 194). Rainbow Lake has been repeatedly restocked with trout within the last 6 years. In making the following excursions, we will visit, in detail nearly all the waters mentioned. Water Routes from Rainbow House to Hunter's Home and Loon Lake, &c: — Path, J^ m. E.; N. Saranac R, J^ m.; Rainbow L., 3 m.; river, i/£ m ; Lily Pad P. (a lily- wreathed basin). y 2 m; river, 2 m; Round P, i]4 m ; road to Hunter's Home, 4 m. N. E. Total, 12^ m. Or the route can be varied thus : — Portage from Round P. around a dam, s r.; river, % m.; Mud P. (|^ x *4), }4 m ; river, }4 m. to " Thatcherville;" thence road, 2 m. to Hunter's Home.* Total, 1 1 ^ m. River navigation Tather difficult. From Mud P. pass up inlet 1 m. N.— with 80 r. portage — to reach Loon Lake. Carry from the river, just above Round P., }£ m. S. E. to Buck Pond. Carry from Round P., }£ m. to Hope P. (j^ x J/$); also carry from Round P., ^ m. N. W. to Mountain P. (1 x J^). Clear P. (2 x j4) is 4 r. N. of Rainbow L; and J^ m. N. of that is Loon P. (^ x y 2 ). Square P. (^ x y 2 ) is 4 r. N of Rainbow L. — just E. of Clear P. Carry over a steep ridge. Carry */ 2 m. S. E. from Lily Pad to Oregon P. (i}4 x %). •Hunter's Home, an old-time resort, does but little 11 any business now. tu < -J O PL) OS CD Qi LU O -J CO -1 < 0- PAUL SMITH'S. 237 Water Route from Rainbow House to Paul Smith's. Road S. W., 1 m.; Jones P., 1 y 2 m ; outlet, \% m.; Os- good P., 2 m.; portage to Paul Smith's, % m. S. Total, t>y 2 m. Distance by road from Wardner's to Paul Smith's, 6 m. To Barnum P. {i]/ 2 x %), it is 5 m.; Grass P. (% x X). 1 1 m ; Elbow P., 12 m ; Duck P. (1 x %), 14 m.; Plurnadore P., 16 m. Barnum is reached via Jones and Osgood P. All the others via Loon L. (ioj^ m.) To Clear P., 1 m.; Loon P., ij^ m.; Square P., 31^ m.; Lily Pad P., 4^ m ; Oregon P., 5 m.; Round P., 6^ m. (by road, 4^ m.); Buck P , 6^ m. (road 4^ m.); Hope P., 7 m ; Mountain P., 7^ m.; Mud P., 81^ m. Many of these waters are the resort of deer. Their situ- ation makes this apparent. Near the hotel is a strip of ground once burned over, but now covered by thrifty second growth, affording fine harbor for ruffed grouse and deer, and there rare sport is frequently enjoyed. It may well be imagined that the varied charms presented by this net work of glittering lakes thus beautifully interlaced, greatly enhance the fascination of sporting in their midst. Boats, guides, and supplies for camping out, are always obtainable here. Telegraph and Post office (Rainbow, N. Y.) in the house. It will be seen that this resort is very easy of access. The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., has a station (" Rainbow Lake ") within two minutes' walk of the hotel. To Rainbow Station on the Chateaugay R. R. it is 3 m.; and Wardner's carriage will meet trains there if due notice has been given. From Rainbow House to Bloomingdale Village it is 7 m. by excellent road, whence it is 8 m. to Lower Saranac Lake. To Saranac Inn, via Ad. & St. Law. R. R. the distance is 11^ m. "Paul Smith's," is a name that has become almost as familiar to the ears of the sportsman and the tourist as that of the "Adirondack Woods." To the initiated, it is always suggestive of beautiful scenery, luxurious 238 THE ADIRONDACKS. quarters, epicurean meals and delightful hours. From the very beginning it has been a most fashionable resort ; com- manding the patronage generally of wealthy people from the large cities. The house, with its cottages, has a capaci- ty for 500 guests, and is a model of comfort and pleasant- ness. It is located on an eminence on the N. shore of the Lower St. Regis Lake, in the midst of an extensive pine grove, a dense forest stretching away on nearly every side. It is supplied with every modern convenience, including bath-rooms, barber-shop, etc.; also billiard-tables. An extensive livery stable, a telegraph and a post-office are connected with the house ; likewise a boat and guide building, affording accommodations for too boats and guides. Tents, blankets, and all the paraphernalia required in camp-life, also every variety of the choicest supplies, in- cluding numerous delicacies are procured here. To sum up, Paul Smith's is a synonym of all that is excellent in the line of entertaining the public. Such an establishment requires no extended notice; its high reputation has long been made and continues to be fully maintained. (P. O. address, Paul Smith's Hotel Co., Paul Smith's, N. Y.) "Pol. Smith," of St. Regis. A copy of Dickens' "All the Year Round," for i860, contains an interesting article on the then primitive hunting grounds of the Adirondack region, in which this grand woodsman and now famous and popular landlord of St. Regis appears in the role of a guide, cook, etc. It refers kindly to his initial efforts in keeping a hotel, the many trials and difficulties he met and over- came, and the funny experiences of the writer in company with ''mine host." We print from Forest and Stream that portion which refers to Paul's early beginning, and this the thousands of guests who have enjoyed his hospitality will read with pleasure, and with the perusal learn to respect their genial and indomitable host the more. We quote : — "Apollos Smith was our guide on my first tramp among the Adirondack Mountains in New York. He is a famous fellow, Polios or "Paul" as he is called* A tall athletic Yankee, with no superfluous flesh about him, raw boned, * Correct name : Apollo A. Smith. I/) X H s I/) -J < a. a; < THE ST. REGIS WATERS. 239 with a good-natured twinkle in his blue eye, brimful of gen- uine Yankee humor ; he has no bad habits, and is, withal, the best rifle-shot, pad.dler, and compounder of forest stews in the whole region. Let me tell his last exploit. In Yankee parlance, he was "courtin' a gal," and in a strait to get married ; so he resolved to ..build him a.hotel, and settle. He knew a little lake, or rather pond, on the middlebranch of the St. Regis River suited to his purpose. There was a log shanty on it, with two springs close by ; it was in a part of the forest little hunted, and abounding in deer and trout, and it communicated directly with the great St. Regis Lake, and other ponds. The winter in those elevated regions is almost Arctic. In the month of January, 1859, he plunged into the forest with two lumbermen, took pos- session of the shanty, and began his clearing. The snow was five or six feet deep, and the cold intense. They felled the gigantic trees, pines, hemlocks, firs, and cedars, cut out beams, split shingles, and laid the foundation of a large houre on the bank of the lake. The boards were sawn at a mill down the river. They cut out a road through the wilderness to the nearest point of a neglected military road, which traverses the St. Regis country from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. During this time Smith, as he has told me, went a-courting every Sunday, a trifle of thirty miles, sometimes on snow shoes. He also went to New York and selected his furniture, besides visit- ing Boston. The house, a large frame building, was com- pleted and furnished, and Paul was married and settled before June." The erection of the elegant little Episcopal Church near the hotel, was largely due to the efforts and money of a munificent benefactor, Dr. E. L. Trudeau. Closely adjacent to the * Lower St. Regis, and forming a beaded net-work around it, lie like so many gems, a score or more of exquisite little lakes and ponds, with their inlets and outlets, among which the Upper St. Regis, the fairest of them all, gleams and sparkles; the chief crown-jewel. These waters — mostly tributaries of St. Regis River — may all be visited from this " Wilderness St. James," on the same day; and embraced in the list, are Osgood, Jones, Spitfire, U. St. Regis, Big Clear, Little Clear, Bog, Loon, 240 THE ADIRONDACKS. Little Duck, Long, Bear, Turtle, Little Green, Big Green, St. Regis, Big Long, Ochre, Fish, Rock, etc., Lakes and Ponds. Hence we hazard nothing in saying that Paul Smith's as a fishing and hunting locality, has few superiors; while as a wild-wood summer retreat, it has perhaps no peer; and taken all in all, it is as winsome a spot as ever charmed a traveler's eye or gladdened a sportsman's heart. Those adventurously inclined, may from this point, with boats and guides, visit the principal waters that begem this romantic region— the Saranacs, the Tuppers, Long, Forked, Raquette, Blue Mt. Lakes, etc.; pass up or down the sinuous courses of the numerous streams with which they are linked, and thus enjoy an excursion richly abound- ing in sylvan delights, over routes whose aggregate distan- ces would amount to hundreds of miles, without being compelled to abandon their boats except to traverse the short portages that intervene. But we are passing too hastily; these delightful routes should be taken up in de- tail and examined more leisurely; so we will return to the St. Regis House. Lower St. Regis Lake has features of interest we will not now pause to describe. It should be observed, however, that the shores are mostly low, and lack, to considerable extent, beauty and picturesqueness ; though St. Regis Mt. presents a fine picture, as viewed from this water. Its old-time favorite camping place was at "Peter's Rock," a rugged ledge projecting boldly from the mainland into the lake, and affording an admirable point for shore-fishing. It was so called from the famous Indian trapper, Peter Sabattis, who frequently in ancient days bivouacked by his camp fire, upon its sloping sides. Osgood Pond % m. N., as we'll as Jones' Pond 1 y 2 m. E. of that, it should be remembered pay tribute to Meacham Lake. From Osgood P. carry 1 m. N. W. to Barnum P. which flows into Lower St. Regis Lake. Lying N. of Barnum P. is Mountain P. which supplies the St. Regis Lake House, (3 m, from there) with pure cold water. H 70 m O O c z H > 70 O r o m ?0 m O BAY POND. GREAT WINDFALL REGION. 241 Bay Pond, renowned for its many charms, is visited by passing down St. Regis River to Keese's Mills 3 m., and "drawing" thence 8 m. S. W.; or by following the river to the head of "Sixteen Mile Level," (9 m. from Smith's,) and carrying therefrom 2^ m. S. W. As its name signifies, it is formed of three romantic bays, whose names and proxi- mate dimensions are as follows : South Bay (1 x y 2 ), North Bay (1 x }i), West Bay (^ x J^). Good springs are found here. The trout in this lake are of peculiar color. The Northern Adirondack R. R. crosses one of its narrows. Waters of Black or Deer P. enter from the N. Carry from Bay Pond 1 J4 m. S. E. (blazed line) to reach Cat Pond (^ x %), a pleasant sheet. Nice camping place near the inlet, by a cold spring. From Cat Pond a good portage leads 2 m. S. E. to Fish Pond (1 x }4), another handsome water and affording extra lake-trout fishing. This pond is also accessible by water (from Paul Smith's) via St. Regis Lakes* Spitfire, St. Regis, Ochre Ponds, etc. (See Nine Carry Route, p. 245). Access is gained to Cranberry Pond (j£ x }i) by boat- ing down the outlet from Bay Pond 2 m. S. W. and carry- ing thence % m. N. W. Splendid "deering" in this vicinity. Passing down the stream ij4 m - below the Cranberry carry, we reach Cranberry Rapids, which furnish superior trouting. (West St. Regis River.) Carrying from the Cranberry portage 3 m. S. W., East Pond (1 x *£) is reached and we are rewarded by the very best of speckled-trout fishing. From that sheet a blazed line extends 3 m. N. E. to Cat Pond above named. Carry 3^ m. S. E. of East Pond to Big Long Pond. Portage cut out and crosses a spur of Long Pond Mt. Carry from East Pond 1 J^ m. S. W. to Windfall P.; thence about ^ m. S. E. to Dry Channel P.; thence about iy 2 m. S. E. to Big Pine P ; thence y 2 m. S. E. to Flood- wood Pond. Little or West Pine P. lies % m. W. of Big or East Pine P., a sharp ridge separating them. This empties through "Pond with a Rock in it " into Rollins Pond, S. W. 242 THE ADIRONDACKS. Ledge Pond lies i ^ or 2 m. S. of East Pond ; and from that leads a blazed line 1% m. S. E. to Big Pine Pond. A trail leads from Big Long Pond W. to Windfall Pond. The outlet of this pond empties into McDonald Pond Stream (N. W.) and that flows into West St. Regis River Yz m. farther N. McDonald P. is 4 to 6 m. N. W. of Windfall Pond. Carry from McDonald P. to Elbow P., y 2 m. N.; and thence to Little Rock P., % m. S. W. From McDonald P. a trail leads to Potter P., 1 m. S. W., and one from this to Jordan L. 3 m. S. W. (See p. 160.) Rock and Otter P's. are S. and S. W. of Potter Pond. From the N. W. shore of Windfall P. a trail leads 1 y 2 m. W. to Willis P., passing N. of the "Great Windfall," (see p. 162,) and along the N. shores of Blue and Mud P. (or by boat across the latter). Thence it is only a few rods to Willis P. This sheet, from its shape and position, is well adapted to hunting. Deer abound in the vicinity of Willis, McDonald, Windfall, etc., Ponds, and wolves and cata- mounts are still occasionally heard. It is a wild and ro- mantic region. A large portion of this district is embraced by Vilas Preserve. The Northern Adirondack R. R. has a station at Blue Pond, whence it is 7^ m. E. by wagon-road through the woods to Saranac Inn. (See pp. 175-183.) Folingsby Jr. Pond, — 3 m. by road, or 5 m. by river N. W. of Keese's Mills (3 m. from Paul Smith's) — is admired for its beauty. It was named after Capt. Folingsby, a mysterious recluse of the Adirondacks. Good springs afford eligible camping locations here. Following a portage 1 m. N. W. we reach Quebec Pond (¥2 x */$), which is 2 m. 5. E. of Madawasca P. (See p. 180). Three-fourths m. N. E. of Folingsbv Jr. Pond is Mud or Slush Pond. From Keese's Mills it is 1 m. to the summit of Jenkins Mt.; view very fine. From the same point it is 3 m. (S.) by bridle path to the summit of St. Regis Mt. — the route passing by the two Spectacle Ponds, J^ m. from the "Mills." The following is a better route : — Taking boats at Paul MT. ST. REGIS. UPPER ST. REGIS LAKE. 243 Smith's we pass up Lower St. Regis Lake, Spitfire Pond and Upper St. Regis Lake. Landing on the W. shore of the latter we carry 10 r.; thence cross Upper Spectacle Pond and pass (r ) down its outlet 3 or 4 r.; and to the foot of Lower Spectacle Pond. (These ponds flow into St. Regis R.) From this point the. enterprising "Paul" has constructed a bridle path 4 ft. in width to the top of the mountain, a distance of 2^ m., and erected a sylvan cot near the sum- mit for the entertainment of parties desiring to remain over night. The scenic attractions unfolded at the crest are varied and sublime. The eye traverses a circuit of vast extent, and with the aid of a glass, the gleaming silver of half a hundred lakes and ponds is brought into charming display. The billowy expanse of a forest-ocean — one solid mass of boundless green, deeply furrowed by a countless multitude of proud-peaked shapes — sweeps away in ma- jestic beauty until lost in the distant horizon. Among the various excursions that may be made in the neighborhood, the drive to Meacham Lake House, 12 m. N. through a charming section of country, should have special mention. (See p. 186). The St. Regis Lake House is easy of access. To Bran- don, a station on the Northern Adirondack R. R., (starting from Moria, on the O. & L. C. R. R.) the distance is 7 m. N. W. (See water route from Blue Mt. House, St. Regis River, to Paul Smith's, and pp. 180-182 ) In the opposite direction it is 6 m. to Bloomingdale Station on the Chateaugay R R. To Paul Smith's station, on the Adirondack & St.. Lawrence R. R., (leading from Malone, also on the O. & L. C. R. R., and only 14 m. E. of Afoira.) it is 4 m. E. Stages meet every train at each of these stations; fare, 75 cts. From Paul Smith's station to Saranac Inn, via A. & St. L. R. R., it is 10 m. There are two other modes of access to that resort from St. Regis Lake House ; one by carriage over a good road (distance, 17 m.,) and the other with boats by the following routes: — Lower St. Regis Lake, ij£ m. Spitfire Pond (very pretty, with sandy shores, but 244 THE ADIRONDACKS. spiteful) i m.; Upper St. Regis Lake (2^ x %/ A ) 2 m. The latter is an enchanting water, unique in form, spangled with picturesque islands ("Birch," "Averill," "One-tree " and " Burnt,") and mirroring upon its placid surface several encircling summits — Mt. St. Regis the chief of all. Its forest-draped banks, also those of " Spitfire," are studded with beautiful cottages, charmingly situated, generally expensive, and frequently ideals of architecture. The three lakes just named, are linked together by short winding inlets or narrows. At the Upper St. Regis a choice of two routes is presented : — one via Lake Clear, and the other via St. Regis Pond, the "Chain," and Little Clear Pond, etc. 1. The portage (i^m.) to Lake Clear, is called the "St. Germain Carry,"* and horses, for the convenience of parties passing over it, are kept here by a resident whose house stands on the shore of the lake. Transportation over carry, $1.50 per load. (The hotel named herewith may now perform the same service.) Near the end of the carry will be found Rice's Mountain View House, a quiet and pleasant resort, offering a fine prospect of Whiteface, Tahawus and other stately pinnacles; also first class accommodations for 100 guests. Daily stage from here to Lake Clear station, on A. & St. L. R. R, ij^ m. A branch railroad, extending to Saranac Village {$% m.), diverges at this point, (" The Junction "), enabling tourists to visit that place and also Lake Placid, via the Saranac & Lake Placid R. R. (9 m.) without changing cars. The waters of Lake Clear (formerly known as "Big Clear Pond ") are of crystalline purity, and exceedingly cold. Its shores are bold and rocky and the scenery encompassing it is of considerable interest. Its shape is nearly circular (2 x 2). A carry extends from the W. side to Little Clear * St. Germain (pronounced san-ger-mo) derived its name from an old ec- centric hall-breed who formerly dwelt In a rude hut at this place. ■v > H -i o n > y c m 73 in H > m PAUL SMITH S TO SARANAC INN. 245 Pond, about 2 m. S. W. Crossing Lake Clear, the route lies thence down its crooked outlet, S., 4 m. to U. Saranac Lake, with a portage at the commencement of less than % m. around a dam and rapids. The stream is now con- siderably obstructed and not easily navigated. Thence a portion of the head of the lake (i}£ m.) is crossed to reach Saranac Inn. Travelers will usually prefer to take cars or carriage at Lake Clear for Saranac Inn, over a more direct and less tedious route. Distance, 3 m. 2. From S. W. shore of U. St. Regis Lake, carry 6 r. S. W. to Bog Pond (10 acres), interesting only as a deer resort; thence 5 r. over " Paul Smith's plank walk," to Bear Pond (40 acres), with golden beaches, two pretty islands, and charming surroundings ; thence 4 r. to Turtle or Middle Pond (10 acres); thence 40 r. to Little Long Pond (200 acres), whose bays, points and several islets display great picturesqueness; thence 50 r. to Little Green Pond (30 acres), one of the clearest gems that sparkle in the Wilder- ness ; thence 15 r. to St. Regis Pond. Good camp here. These little lakes are fed by springs, their waters being cold, fresh and pure. They have no visible connection with each other, but are doubtless linked together by sub- terranean streams. St. Regis Pond covering about 1,000 acres, is a bewitch- ing, mount- encircled mere, interspersed with numerous forest-covered islands, and is as wild as when the tawny Indian rippled its surface in his bark canoe. St. Regis Mountain to the jN., heaves his dark hulk in the air, and many other peaks, frown down upon its waters. A passage of 1 m. down the outlet of St. Regis P. (W.) takes us into Ochre P. (60 acres), deriving its name from the numerous beds of ochre found in the vicinity. By passing down the outlet of this sheet 2 m. (W.), or carrying about the same distance, we may reach Fish P. (75 acres), which connects, by navigable stream, with a pond of 5 246 THE ADIRONDACKS. acres nearly adjoining, where wonderful trouting has been enjoyed. (See p. 241). Resuming the tour, we pursue our way across St. Regis P. and carry S. J^ m. to Little Clear Pond,* another ex- quisite lakelet of singular shape, with waters of crystal clearness, hemmed in by mountainous elevations ; thence i}i m. S. to Big Green Pond (^4 x J^); thence 50 r. S. W. to Spring Pond, and thence pass down the short outlet to Upper Saranac Lake. This course through the " Braided Lakes " is called the "Route, of the Nine Carries." With light baggage and experienced guides, the trip over it can be made in- about 4 hours. Distance from Paul Smith's to Saranac Inn, by either route, about 10 m. In making the round trip, it may be agreeably varied, by going one way and returning the other. Bloomingdale, it will be noticed, is a prominent point on several converging avenues to the Adirondacks. To this place travelers starting from Port Kent, — sometimes from Plattsburg — en route for Paul Smith's, Rainbow Lake, Up- per and Lower Saranac Lakes, occasionally pay tribute. Formerly 8 or 10 stages arrived here daily on their way to these different localities, connecting by excellent carriage roads. But the advent of the railway has made a material change; doing away with much of the tedious staging hitherto necessary. The village is pleasantly located near the forest, among hills, lakes and streams, within a few miles of Whiteface Mt. — that isolated pyramid rising ma- jestically in full view. About 2 m. S. E. of the village is Moose Pond (i}4x$£) with rock-girded shores, and framed in by Moose Pond Mt. and other densely wooded heights. It abounds in both lake and speckled trout. One m. from that is a small sheet called Grass Pond, charmingly situated and also liberally supplied with trout. Saranac River passes within Y^ m. of Bloomingdale and affords good fishing; and the same may be said of three or four little brooks flowing * On Little Clear P. (450 acres) Is located the State fish hatchery ; and this sheet has fceen rechrlstened Lake Brandon after the township In which It Is located. THE VILLAGE OF SARANAC LAKE. 247 through or near the place. The drives in the neighbor- hood are varied and delightful, offering rich displays of landscape loveliness. Taken altogether it is a pleasant resort for those wishing to spend a few days of rural life within the precincts of the Adirondacks. The Crystal Spring House, a commodious hotel, with pleasant rooms, bathing facilities, excellent table, and care- ful attention to the traveler's needs, has won an enviable reputation. It is supplied with water from one of the best springs in the region. It receives 50 guests. Carriage to Bloomingdale station, on the Chateaugay R. R., (2 m.) 25 cts.; to Paul Smith's station, on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., (4^ m.) $1.00. The Mountain View House, of about equal capacity, also offers good accommodations, at moderate rates, and a free ride from the Chateaugay station. From Bloomingdale to "Baker's" it is 6 m ; Saranac Lake Village, 3/£ m.; Lower Saranac Lake, \% m. Total, 8 m. The road commencing as far back as Franklin Falls, lies along the stately Saranac River, which is almost con- stantly in view, thus rendering the scenery very interesting. We have partially described the old-time stage route from Ausable Station to Lower Saranac Lake. But the completion of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence, and of the Chateaugay Railroads to this point, has revolution- ized staging to a large extent, and rendered the very heart of the Adirondack Region conveniently accessible. Invalids especially, seeking the benefit derived from a sojourn in the Wilderness, will hail this information with delight. The Village of Saranac Lake, lying on Saranac River, and 1 }(. m. E. of the N. end of Lower Saranac Lake, is a flourishing town, whose rapid growth is mostly due to the reputation it has made as a health resort, and to the business that the great hotels and the railways have brought. Three lines start from this point: — The Chat- eaugay; the Saranac & Lake Placid;* and the Saranac Branch of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. In * Those extremely popular summer resorts, Lake Placid and Mirror Lake, now readied by railroad from Saranac Lake Village, will be fully described under bead ol "Eou'.e Tmntu-Jtflh." 248 THE ADIRONDACKS. accessibility, therefore, it is unsurpassed. The village dis- plays diversified styles of architecture — ranging from the humble, though neat habitation of the guide, (numerous famous ones dwelling here) to the costly residence of the man of wealth. It possesses many of the advantages en- joyed in the large cities, including the telephone and telegraph, daily mails, churches, schools, a public library, stores, water-supply, etc. Environing the town are gently rising hills, overshadowed by an amphitheatre of majestic peaks, with smiling valleys interspersed. The salubrity of the air, its elevated, yet sheltered situation, its attractive scenery, the opportunities it offers to sportsmen, and the superiority of the establishments here and in the vicinity, render it a most agreeable place for a long sojourn. The village hotels are of excellent character, and satisfy every reasonable requirement. Of these the Berkeley House (capacity, 100) is the most important. Its table and man- agement have long borne good reputation ; but to comply with the demands of increasing patronage, it has recently been enlarged, remodeled and greatly improved. Steam heat, open fire-places, electric bells, bath-rooms, and bil- liard parlor, are among its modern appointments. Dairy products and fresh vegetables are supplied by the hotel farm. Open all the year. Riverside Inn, receiving about 80, is also entitled to high recommendation. It is heated by steam, lighted by electricity, and encompassed by several spacious verandas. The rooms are large and richly furnished. Bathing and other conveniences will be found on every floor. It has perfect drainage system, a billiard room and a lawn tennis court. The table is excellent, being largely supplied by the Riverside Inn farm. Linwood Cottage, entertains 30 guests, in satisfactory style. Those preferring the greater quiet and lower prices of private boarding houses, will find many of them scattered through the town. THE ADIRONDACK COTTAGE SANITARIUM Has proved to be one of the most wholesome and desirable institutions of its kind in this country. The Essix County Republican gives the following well related history of this establishment : " The Adirondacks are fast becoming a winter as well as a summer > a O z o > n C/l > z > c 3 > z > n > m THE ADIRONDACK COTTAGE SANITARIUM. 249 resort, a. condition of things chiefly attributable to the experience, example and efforts of Dr. E. L. Trudeau. Encouraged by a fortunate •experience in his own case, and believing that what had been done for himself could be done for others, he conceived the idea of a summer and winter health resort in the wilderness, where people in moderate circumstances, in the first stages of consumption, could have all the advantages for recovery which he had himself enjoyed. Dr. A. L. Loomis, of New York city, and other prominent gentlemen, who had experienced the benefits of the Adirondack climate, were found ready to co-operate with Dr. Trudeau, and glad to contribute liberally to- ward the founding and support of such an institution ; and late in the year 1884 the Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium was organized. The following year fifteen acres of land were bought, on an elevated but well sheltered plateau, about one mile and a fourth north of Saranac Lake Village, some two hundred feet above the valley, and nearly two thousand feet above tide, commanding a splendid view of the moun- tains on the south and east. A large main building, three cottages and outbuildings were erected, and the establishment was opened for pa- tients in May, 1885. Since then constant additions and improvements have been made, so that the buildings embraced in the Sanitarium now number seventeen, including the main structure surrounded by a half moon of sixteen cottages — all planned and finished with a view to a harmonious combination of the whole. One of its most attractive features is the handsome pavilion, erected for exercise and amusement. This is open on all sides, but enclosed with glass in the winter. The cottages are models of beauty, cleanliness and attractiveness, calculated to accommodate from two to four patients, comprising three or four rooms, the central one having a large open fire-place. They are all provided by private subscriptions, those who contribute having the privilege of building the cottage themselves, according to the plans adopted by the Association, or paying the money over to the directors, with instructions for them to build. We think the latter plan is adopted, as the more economical, a cottage being built of such dimen- sions as the amount contributed will allow, whether $500 or $2,500, ac- cording to the liberality of the donor. These cottages are kept open the year round, being thoroughly warmed in the coldest weather. Even in winter, sometimes when mercury is below zero, the patients — warm- ly clad in heavy garments — spend most of the hours of daylight in the open air ; those who are strong enough riding or tramping through the woods, leading all in winter pleasure and sport ; others, too feeble to do so, sitting in easy chairs on the verandas, wrapped in furs and blan- kets, with hot bricks or soapstones at their feet, inhaling the pure ozone and enjoying the bright sunshine. The expense at this institute, with medical treatment, is only $5.00 per week, which it can readily be con- jectured will scarcely pay running expenses. It is under the very capable superintendence of Mrs. Julia A. Miller. The trustees are Ed- ward L. Trudeau, M. D., Alfred L. Loomis, M. D., Charles M. Lea, C. F. Wicker, M. D., Daniel W. Riddle, George C. Cooper and W. H. Penfield. Dr. Loomis, Dr. Trudeau and Dr. Wicker give their serv- ices free of cost to all patients. The Sanitarium is developing into a 250 THE ADIRONDACKS. pretty and picturesque village, that now bears more of the aspect of a fashionable resort than a mere health institution. THE ADIRONDACKS AS A WINTER RESORT. " At this season of the year the grandeur and beauty of the scene, as witnessed from the Sanitarium, is seldom surpassed. The view is scarcely less lovely beneath a winter sky than when clothed in summer verdure. Mountain and valley, placid river and snowy plain, the bare branches of giant trees tossed heavenward by the fierce winds, or gently waved by softer breezes, the evergreens standing like sentries at their post, whose duty will not permit tliem to doff their summer array, which they keep to give color and warmth to the scene ; all these form a pic- ture never to be forgotten. Where could another such place be found for the purpose ? They did wisely who located the Adirondack cot- tages for the relief and cure of pulmonary diseases in this charming spot. How great the results have already been. How many have gone out from this retreat to useful, happy lives ; lives prolonged many years by the benefit received from the healing of Nature, aided by the best medical advice, and the attention given to the small details of out-door and indoor life, which go far to stay the progress of pulmonary troubles. They go back to the conflicts of life with a better knowledge of what is required to retain the health regained. The great importance of pure air, out-door exercise and the like will scarcely be overlooked by those who have been so thoroughly drilled in them as have the patients at the Sanitarium. Honor to those who have spent so many years in study and practice which have made the success of this establishment possible, and may they long live to see its increasing usefulness. " The effect of Dr. Trudeau's making the Adirondacks his home, and the establishment of the Sanitarium for the treatment of consumptives all the year round has directed popular attention to the Adirondacks as a winter home. The building of the beautiful hotel Ampersand at Saranac Lake, to be kept open the whole year, is no doubt the direct result of of the growing demand for first-class accommodations for winter guests; and in Saranac Lake Village the keeping of fashionable winter guests has become an important business, while all about on the hill-sides and other commodious localities may be seen substantial and expensive residences, built and being built by wealthy people from the cities who contemplate spending the remainder of their lives in this health-giving region. No doubt in time this same condition of things will extend to all parts of the Adirondacks; and the time is hastening when it will not bear the deserted appearance in the winter season that is usually wit- nessed at popular pleasure resorts." Lower Saranac Lake (Ind., " L-ike of the Clustered Stars") is 6 m. in length with an average width of ij^m. As the tourist threads his way through the intricate chan- nels of its numerous islands (fifty-two in all ; " Eagle," %/£ m. long, the largest),* and passes its winding shores and "A number ol these islands are small, and masses of rook ; others are well clothed with forest. -^%fe < u < Z < a. < a: o LOWER SARANAC LAKE. "MARTIN'S." 251 singular bays, its striking points and jagged headlands, the massive bulwarks of the Adirondacks frequently in view, he cannot fail to admit that this sheet of water possesses many picturesque attractions. Whiteface and McKensie in the N. E., Seward and Ampersand at the S., Marcy, Mc- Intyre and many "lesser lights " to the S. E., and the Tup- per Lake Mountains in the S. W., dominate the scene. It is so thickly studded with clustering islets near the middle of the lake, as to nearly conceal what is termed "Cluster Bay "■ — these forming a braided circle around that portion of the' water, which seems like a separate tiny lake replete with romantic beauty. On the W. side, near the foot, there is a curious rocky promontory jutting abruptly into the lake, called "The Hedgehog," from whose elevated summit a grand prospect of the most fascinating scenery is enjoyed. But the comeliness of the landscape is sadly marred by the ravages of the many extensive fires that have swept through the forests in this section. It is said that the echo of one's shout, at some points on the lake, repeats itself 20 times, distinctly enough to be counted. One and one fourth mile from the village, on the eastern shore of Lower Saranac Lake, at the head of a beautiful bay, stands the Saranac Lake House, formerly styled "Martin's," one of the far- famed gateways to the Wilder- ness, and a most desirable tarrying place for all in quest of health or sporting recreation. From a rude beginning, with its many enlargements, it has developed into a pic- turesque structure of great proportions. It is nearly sur- rounded by broad verandas offering 1,000 feet of prome- nades. The rooms, large, airy, single and in suites, are furnished in accordance with perfect taste, neatness and convenience; and while occupying them one may enjoy most of the comforts of " The Windsor " or " Fifth Ave- nue," together with all the rare and dainty viands the region yields ; at the same time commanding an exquisite view of the varied beauties that lake, mountain and forest ever give. Electric bells, large open fire-places in the office, dining-room and parlors, bowling alley and billiard rooms are included in the recent improvements. Sanitary plumbing and complete drainage prevail. The house is supplied with pure spring water; the tables with the 252 THE ADIRONDACKS. choicest dairy and vegetable products by the connecting garden and farm. It has telegraphic communication, daily mails and New York papers, a well equipped livery, and a general store, furnishing all kinds of supplies needed for the camp. Lovely rambles are enjoyed in the charming grove of evergreens fringing the water but a short distance away. Varied out-door diversions are afforded, that in- clude driving, boating, croquet and lawn tennis. Wm. F. Martin, for upwards of 30 years, was proprietor of the noted hostelry, whose reputation he made and which has been more than maintained by the present proprietor, Milo B. Miller. Like Paul Smith, VVardner, Baker and Bartlett, Martin was a veteran among pioneers ; a famous sportsman as well as landlord, and could throw a fly or secure a deer with a skill equal to that of the most finished disciple of Izaak Walton, or the fabled Nimrod. He passed away Oct. 3, 1892. The Saranac Lake House receives 300 guests. Concord coaches meet every train at the stations ; fare 5octs. (P. O. Saranac Lake, N. Y.) The Algonquin is delightfully situated on an eminence half-a-mile S. of the Saranac Lake House, commanding a noble view of lake, forest and mountain scenery. This fine hotel is replete with modern conveniences. Large, high and well ventilated rooms, appropriately furnished ; electric bells ; open fire-places ; spacious balconies ; pure spring water; large wall-tents, with carpeted floors, con- veniently near; and the best of sanitary arrangements are among its desirable features. The table in all its details deserves the highest praise. The connecting farm furnishes abundantly the choicest dairy and vegetable supplies. The grounds, with a grand water-frontage of ^ of a mile, embrace many acres of ver- dant lawn, interspersed with flowers and shrubbery, and are prettily fringed with evergreen trees. Among the vari- ous amusements afforded should be named croquet, lawn tennis, boating, and rambles on the ground and through the surrounding woods. Orchestral music for dancing is furnished tri-weekly. The hotel livery offers every suit- able conveyance for liding. Q Z < QC ui a S < UJ (- O x S O a < z < < a: UJ O LOWER SARANAC LAKE. HOTEL AMPERSAND. 253 The proprietor, John Hardirg, was an apt pupil of the great master, Paul Smith, and prides himself on his ability to provide for the wants of sportsmen and the traveling public. The Algonquin 4-horse coaches meet all trains at the stations, i3£ miles distant. Fare, 50 cents. Telegraph and post-office ("Algonquin, N. Y.,") in the house. On the sloping heights at the northern end of the lake, nestling in the foliage of the sweet-scented pine, balsam and hemlock, brightened by the sugar-maple and the silver- birch, stands Hotel Ampersand, the " Queen of the Tro- sachs." This grand establishment is elevated 50 feet above the water and commands a magnificent view of this island-gemmed inland sea with the adjacent mountains, whose most conspicuous figure is the stately tower from which the house derived its name. From the spacious piazzas in the summer-time a delightfully animated scene may be witnessed. The surface of the lake is then dotted with every variety of small craft, from the swift steam- launch glittering with gay colors, and the flying white- winged yacht, to the graceful little shallop peculiar to the Adirondack waters. This hotel is provided with all the appliances of a modern resort. Among the adjuncts are an elevator; electric bells; steam heat; gas illumination; two large fire-places in the main office ; fire-places in about 60 of the apartments ; general bath-rooms; many private bath- rooms; reading, writing, smoking and card-rooms ; men's and ladies' billiard parlors ; ladies' writing-room ; elegant public and. private dining-rooms; barber shop; guide- rooms ; sumptuous parlors ; luxurious equipment ; broad verandas extending the length and width of the house ; several commodious cottages ; a large annex building for athletic and amusement purposes ; a general store, furnish- ing complete camping outfits; telephone; telegraph; and post-office ("Ampersand, N. Y."). The cuisine and service are unexcelled. From the "Am- persand Farm " the usual supplies are obtained, and every delicacy attainable in the markets of the great cities will be found on the table. Pure water and thorough sanitary arrangements are included in the appurtenances. Music 254 THE ADIRONDACKS. every afternoon and evening is furnished by a select or- chestra. The beautifully ornamented and park-like grounds pre- sent a combination of lake-side and woodland charms not often surpassed. There various means of diversion are offered, including games in the ball-field and lawn-tennis court, and delectable wanderings under the trees, where at convenient intervals comfortable seats in the leafy shade will be found. Many delightful excursions by boat or carriage may be made in the neighborhood. Hotel Ampersand has already become famous as a winter resort, especially for those af- flicted with consumptive tendencies. In that season of the year the verandas are enclosed in glass. Its faultless man- agement has won the highest encomiums of its numerous patrons. Upon the whole, this is doubtless one of the most important and palatial of all the mountain hostelries, and is as complete as the most exacting could demand. It receives 300 guests. Tally-ho coaches connect with every train at Saranac Lake Village, 1 m. E. Fare 50 cts There are many interesting places of resort within easy reach of Saranac Lake, to which we will introduce the sporting traveler. Colby Pond, a lovely lakelet (ij^ x 3/£) lies y$ m. N. of the lake and near Hotel Ampersand. It is crossed by the A. & St. L. R. R. on tressel-work 1000 ft. long. Macauley Pond is connected with " Colby " by a carry of 2 m. W. ; length i/± m. This sheet is the rendezvous of deer. McKensie's Pond (ij^ x 3/1), about 3 m. E.' of the lake, is reached by road and path, via the village. Ray Brook, a branch of Saranac R., is visited via the village ; also, by descending the outlet (Saranac R.) which departs about midway the length of the lake. En route, we pass by the mouth of Rogers Brook (r.), — affording good sport — ,and through Millers P., an expansion of the river; Ray Brook entering here, on the r., near the foot.* •At the village of Saranac Lake, another outgrowth of Saranac River, form- ing a sheet of considerable beauty, has just been christened Lake Flower, In honor of the Governor of New York, who is a strong advocate for the preservation of the forest. RAY BROOK HOUSE. AMPERSAND POND (p. 256). 255 The Ray Brook House has a pleasant situation within a few rods of the famous trout-stream that furnishes its name, and is four m. from Saranac Lake, by road or rail. Duncan Cameron, the proprietor (an accomplished sports- man), is the owner of nearly 2,000 acres hereabouts, wa- tered by this shady rivulet. Therefore it is carefully pro- tected and reserved for the exclusive use of his guests. As it has been repeatedly stocked with fry, it still affords the old-time sport. In fact it teems with trout, and when wa- ter, wind and season are favorable a skillful fisherman may capture his "pound a minute until he has his backload." Ray Brook P., an outgrowth of Little Ray Brook (a few rods from the house), offers good fishing and safe boating, and is a favorite resort of ladies and children. Highland Lake (heretofore known as McKensie' s Pond) lies ij^ m. N. of the hotel. This wild and secluded water is embosomed in mountains (Mt. McKensie, or Sugar Loaf, the most prominent), and presents an entrancing picture. The Ray Brook House is an excellent hotel, bearing a high reputation. The rooms are large and well equipped ; not gaudily, but with an eye to comfort and convenience. The house is supplied with pure spring-water; the table with the fresh products of the adjoining farm and with brook-trout during the entire season. The usual out-door amusements are enjoyed on the handsome grounds : cro- quet, lawn-tennis &c. It is a quiet and home-like resort, receiving 50 guests. The place affords an admirable sur- vey of Seward, Ampersand, McKensie, Santanoni, The Gothics and other mountains. Telegraph and post-office ("Ray Brook, N. Y.") in the hotel. Two daily mails. Camp supplies and conveyances are always obtainable here. The station on the Saranac & Lake Placid R. R. is but a few rods away. Carriages free. (See Lake Placid.) Lonesome Pond (i}4 x y$), one of the most beautiful in the region, is visited by rowing up Saranac Lake 2 m., landing on E. shore at head of Lonesome Pond Bay, and following a path ^ m. E. Access is gained to Pine Pond, another pretty tarn, by proceeding with boats up the lake 2 m. beyond Lonesome 256 THE ADIRONDACKS. Pond Bay, and down the outlet (Saranac R.) 3 m. and carrying (r.) 1 m. Good portage. To visit Ampersand Pond (really Ampersand; 1 x %), one of the most sequestered as well 'as most lovely of all the Wilderness waters, we push the boat up shallow Cold Brook, a famous trout stream (which enters Saranac R , r. about 3 m. below the lake and near the river end of the portage to Pine Pond), 1 m.; and then carry (r.) S. W. across a difficult portage of 5 m. leading over a spur of Ampersand Mountain. The route passes near Little Am- persand Pond. At the termination of the carry, once stood the celebra- ted " Philosopher's Camp," the summer-home constructed many years ago at an expense of great hardship by Wm. F. Martin for Agassiz and his companions. This association was a gathering of congenial spirits, among whom were Emerson, Lowell, Judge Hoar, Dr. Jeffries Wyman, Dr. Estes Howe, John Holmes, W. J. Stillman, Amos Binney and Horatio Woodman.* (See Folingsby's Pond.) Ampersand Pond is also reached by a 5 m. trail leading from Middle Saranac Lake. And here, completely em- bosomed in the forest, where the axe of the woodman has rarely been heard, at the feet of mountain peaks (Seward, Ragged, Seymour and Ampersand), that guard it on every side as faithful sentinels, reposes this loch, most lonely in in its isolation, most bewitching in its loveliness. So far is it removed from the usual routes, and so very toilsome is the task of its examination, that the deer frequenting its solitudes and the trout swarming in its waters are not often annoyed by the approach of the sportsman. Here in ancient times, tradition asserts, the magicians of the Saranac Indians performed their weird, mystic charms for the purpose of raising the spirits of the dead. A trail leads from the shore to the base of Mt. Seward ; and this is the easiest route to its summit and to the Ou-lus-ka Pass (" the home or place of shadows " of the Indians. — Colvitt), lying between that peak and Ragged Mt. •Of these eminent men only three survive:— W. J. Stillman, John Holmes, (brother ol Oliver Wendell) and Judge Hoar. (Aug. 22d, 1893.) > » H C XI m •n to O s o H > 2 m X) > z D ROUTES FROM LOWER SARANAC LAKE. 257 Distances from Sarandc Lake House: — To Saranac Lake Village, " Bloomingdale, (by road) " Saranac Inn, (by road) . " Saranac Inn, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) " Saranac Inn, (by water) " Paul Smith's, (by road) " Paul Smith's, [via A. & St. L. R. R.) " Rainbow Lake, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) " Ausable Station, ("Roger's.") . " Keeseville, .... " Port Kent, " Plattsburg, (by Chateaugay R. R.) " Ray Brook House, (by road or rail) " North Elba, " Lake Placid, (by road, via North Elba) " Lake Placid, (by direct road) " Lake Placid, (by Saranac & L. Placid R. R " Adirondack Lodge, " Mountain View House, " Cascade Lakes, " Mt. Marcy, " Indian Pass, " Keene, (old road) " Keene, (new road) " Keene Valley, " St. Hubert's Inn, " Elizabethtown, " Westport, " Wilmington Notch, " Wilmington and Whiteface Mountain, " " Bartlett's," (by water) " Hotel Wawbeek, Upper Saranac L. (by water) ) MILES. 8 T 3 12% 20% 14 l6% M# 37 46 5i 74*A 4 10 12 10 17^ J 3 18 nV* 2 3 2 3 25 28 3i 35 43 16 22 12 Route from Hotel Ampersand to Upper Saranac, Lotig, Raquette and Tupper Lakes. Traversing the length of L. Saranac Lake, we may pause in Loon Bay, near the southerly end, on the 1., to quench our thirst, perchance to take our lunch at that romantic spot called "Jacob's Well." This is an ice cold spring, 258 THE ADIRONDACKS. whose waters come bubbling up from beneath a moss-cov- ered rock, near the base of a vertical bluff, frowning down upon us and reminding one of " Rogers' Slide," on Lake George. From here we pass up Saranac River, (narrow and tortuous) 3 m. to Middle Saranac Lake. Midway be- tween the two lakes are short rapids, where the river falls about 10 ft. within 10 rods. Guides formerly shot these rapids, when coming down the stream, and towed their boats when ascending it; but a lock placed there for steamboat navigation — since aban- doned—now compels all to carry (15 rods) around them. Middle Saranac, generally called Round Lake, is about 8 m. in circumference, and is an attractive sheet, surround- ed by an amphitheatre of hills and mountains, Ampersand rising majestically from the southern side. It is decked with several handsome islands, and its bold shores are in- terspersed with sandy beaches. Here again our eyes are charmed by a distant view of the "Adirondack glories." For some reason not yet discovered, Round Lake is an easily-agitated and dangerous water. The breeze that merely ripples other lakes produces huge waves in this. A generous tourist, when passing through this section sev- eral years ago, was well-nigh shipwrecked at this place and forced to pass the entire night exposed to the pitiless storm, on a small peninsula near the foot of the lake. On this spot he afterwards had a substantial cabin erected, styled" Camp Refuge," to furnish shelter to others who might chance to have a similar experience. Since then, many weather-bound travelers have had occasion to bless this philanthropist for his thoughtful kindness. Crossing the lake and passing up Saranac River again, J^ m. (a gi- gantic boulder on each side marking the point of entrance) we arrive at the Saranac Club House, occupying the site of the once famed " Bartlett's.* Though owned and man- aged by the " Saranac Club," it will continue to provide for the wants of travelers. But the name of " Bartlett's " will doubtless cling to the spot until the present generation is numbered with the past. (P. O., Saranac Lake, N. Y.) *A dally line ol row-boats usually runs from tue Saranac Lake hotels to " Bartlett's " (12 m.) and tnence to Sweeney Carry (Tne Wawtoeek), Upper Saranac Lake. A rough wood's road extends from Saranac Lake House to " Bartlett's." SARANAC CLUB HOUSE. MT. AMPERSAND. 259 . This popular hostelry has long been favorably known to the sporting and traveling community. It is situated im- mediately below the rapids, on the outlet of Upper Saranac Lake, and on the most direct route into the Wilderness by Lower Saranac Lake. Just in front of the house is the landing, from which boats and baggage are carried by team, ioo rods, to the Upper Lake, (price for transporta- tion, 50 cents per load) and the situation is always animate with life from the passing of parties in and out of the woods. It is also a convenient and eligible place to ob- tain an outfit for camping expeditions. The house is well patronized especially by tourists from the large eastern cities. As Bartlett (who died in 1884) was one of the pioneers of the Wilderness (locating here in 1855), many old " Adirondackers " long made this place their head- quarters. Some of these here paid annual court for 25 or 30 seasons ; notably Dr. J. R. Romeyn, of Keeseville, who made thirty-six yearly visits.* Although not really situated on a lake or large body of water, there are many things that lend an interest to this locality. Saranac R. runs directly in front of the house, and the murmur of its rapids, falling 60 ft., is constantly heard. Here is a farm clearing, with a number of rustic buildings suited to the wants of the interior life of the woods. The farm is skirted by for- ests which form its enclosure. Hills, with rich hardwood foli- age, rise in the near distance, and beyond these, moun- tains clothed with dark evergreens complete the horizon. From the summit of a moderate elevation in the rear of the house an impressive picture is enjoyed of the neighboring lakes and the Adirondack Mts, 50 or 60 peaks being dis- cernible, conspicuous among which are Saddleback, White- face, Rogers' and Ampersand. But the great event among excursions from this point is the ascent of Ampersand Mt.f Without this a tour of the Saranac Lakes would be incomplete. By thirty minutes boating down the river and through the bright and danc- ing waters of Middle Saranac Lake a good trail is reached leading to the top of the mountain. The opening of this •We have been reliably Informed tliat Dr. Romeyn lias made 41 annual visits to the Adlrondacks (Sept. 8. 1893). tMt. Ampersand was formerly known as "Moose Mt." 260 THE ADIRONDACKS. route — a most difficult matter— was solely due to the effort and enterprise of the late Dr. W. W. Ely, of Rochester. The path starts from the lower sand beach (S. E. side of the lake) near where the old carry to Ampersand P. be- gins. It soon merges into an old lumber road which is followed for half a mile. A barked tree at the 1. indicates where we diverge from this road.* The ascent is usually accomplished in about 4 hours and no great discomfort is connected with the journey. The spectacle that awaits Us at the summit is rich reward for double the toil. All around is spread a magnificent prospect. Immediately be- low, on either side, lie Round Lake and Ampersand Pond — gems of beauty bathing the mountain's base. Rising from the opposite shore of the pond, with savage sides and castellated crown, is Mt. Seward, attended by its rugged compeer, Ragged Mt. Farther away — many of them in the blue distance — at the E. and S. E., are Pitch-Off, Cas- cade, Porter, Mclntyre (concealing Marcy), Gray & Dix's Peak, Nipple Top, Slide, Santanoni, and countless other majestic mountains. In the S. and S. W. the entire length of Long Lake (13^ m.) is revealed, and Blue Mt., Owl's Head, Mt. Morris and other less lofty, pinnacles disclose their imposing forms. In the S. W. and W. and N. W. Big and Little Tupper Lakes, Raquette River, Simond's, Raquette, Big Wolf, Rollins, Floodwood, Big Square, Fish Creek, Folingsby's Clear, Hoel, St. Regis and Spitfire Ponds, U. St. Regis, Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes (with their fairy islands), the Weller Ponds and many sparkling waters besides, with their numerous tributaries — nearly fifty lakes, ponds and streams in all — display their glistening silver on a bed of boundless green. Westerly and northward, Buck, Ma-tum-ba-la, St. Regis and Lyon Mts. loom up grandly against the sky. To the N. and N. E. the beautiful valley of the Saranac stretches onward •And if you would avoid trouble, dear reader, accept our advice and do not be tempted to follow tills road beyond this point, as we unwisely did many years ago— It looked so very Inviting. It led us into difficulty, as It soon came to an end near tlie base of the Huge mass we were to scale ; and rather than to retrace our steps we addressed ourselves to the Herculean task of scaling the precipitous walls .before us, thereby enjoying (?) a rough and tumble scramble we have no desire to repeat. Peak after peak we sur- mounted, and gorge after gorge we encountered, always to find, until the very last, the true summit towering far away. No ; follow the " straight and narrow " path, and not the " broad road." Q Z < a. m ui a < -a u < z < Of < a. 3 UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 261 until absorbed by the valley of Lake Champlain, upwards of 50 m. away ; and faintly perceptible are the glimmering peaks of Vermont, and less remote the massive Adirondack battlements of Ames, McKensie, Rogers', Saddle-back and Whiteface. Well miy Ampersand Mt. be pronounced the Rigi of America. A picture of grandeur and loveliness more en- chanting than that unfolded at its summit was never con- ceived in a poet's dream ; and it is while surveying such a scene that we completely realize what a wealth of beauty and sublimity nature has lavished upon this wild and won- derful region. A clearing has been made on the mountain- top (subsequently enlarged by the State Survey), and a substantial log and bark shanty, constructed by Dr. Ely's party, assisted by Dr. Read, of Boston. This mountain is ascended without deviating from the regular route through the Saranac waters, and no one can regret that a brief pause was made in the journey to enjoy the delicious treat the view affords Upper Saranac (Ind., San-bell o-nin-i pus, "Beautiful Lake," or, " Lake of the Silver Sky "), the " Queen " of the Saranac group, is about 8 m. in length by 2 to 3 in width. Its waters are deep, clear and pure ; surrounded by enchanting shores. It is a loch of exquisite bays, bold headlands, interesting narrows, picturesque islands and magnificent mountain views. The environing forest is dense and luxuriant. Numerous summer-houses, ornate and commodious, some, as costly as the average city-home, adorn the banks. Prominent among these is the cottage owned by Dr. S. B. Ward, of Albany, N. Y., and located at Markham Pt. on the E. side of the lake. From the Upper Saranac there are seven different meth- ods of approach to the Tupper waters, five of which are comparatively easy and pleasant, the remaining two dif- ficult but exceedingly romantic. 262 THE ADIRONDACKS. 1. From " Bartlett's Landing," cross the foot of the lake (il4 m,) to Rustic Lodge; thence pass Over Indian Carry, . . . 1 mile. Over Spectacle Ponds, . . 2 " Down Stony Creek to Raquette River . 3 "' Down Raquette River to Big Tupper Lake, 20 }4 " (Up Raquette River to Long Lake it is 13^ m.) (See route from Raquette Lake to Forked, Long and Tupper Lakes ) Rustic Lodge (formerly "Corey's") is pleasantly located on elevated ground at the southern end and enjoys a de- lightful prospect of the broad expanse of this noble lake. With its several neat little cottages, it offers good enter- tainment to 60 guests. The table, during Corey's admin- istration, was famed for its excellence throughout the re- gion and we believe this reputation is still sustained. Fare by steamer and stage to Saranac Inn, $1.50. (P. O. Axton, N. Y.) ' ' The celebrated Indian Carry is a smooth road over a level belt of cleared land. At the other extremity of this portage, on a gentle elevation near the first of the Spec- tacle or Stony Creek Ponds, delightfully overlooking its waters, is situated the Hiawatha House, where 40 guests are acceptably provided for. (P. O. Axton, N. Y.) In the vicinity, upward of one hundred years ago, the Sar- anac Indians had their dwelling place ; and on an emi- nence not far from the hotel is a mound-like seat where their chief was wont to keep his vigilant watch for the enemy. Here, too, is pointed out the impress in the solid rock of an Indian's foot. Corn-fields, in their season, then abounded where large second-growth timber now covers the ground. In fact, remarkable Indian antiquities have been discovered elsewhere in the Adirondacks. A fine mountain view is afforded from this spot ; Sew- ard, Ampersand and other peaks being included in the picture. THE STONY CREEK PONDS. 263 It costs but an hour's exertion to ascend Panther Mt. from this hotel, while a walk of 2 hours will take us to the summit of Stony Creek Mt. The proprietors of Hiawatha House and Rustic Lodge, with their teams, haul boats and baggage over the Indian Carry; price 75 cents per load. This road has been extended to Raquette River (2 m. distant), striking it at " Calkins," y 2 m. below the mouth of Stony Creek. Thus, when followed, 5 m. of water- travel may be avoided. Transportation always obtainable at the two hotels. The Spectacle Ponds (Ind., "Wampum Waters,") are connected by short channels. The first and third of these linked beauties are nearly round and about yl m. in diameter. The second is much larger (the route crosses its narrowest portion) and very irregular in form, an island cutting it nearly in two. There is a carry of 2 m. from the E. shore of this pond to "Bartlett's Landing." In going from the first to the second pond, the " bridge of the nose " is passed by dragging the boat through the short outlet of 4 or 5 r. In traveling up these waters on the way to Sar- anac Lake, a short turn to the left should be made soon after entering the second pond. Just where Stony Creek departs from the last of these ponds, on its shallow and sinuous course through marshy grounds to Raquette River, Ampersand Brook discharges the water, on the 1., it has brought from Ampersand Pond. At the mouth of this stream we advise the angler to throw his fly, as speckled trout of unusual size frequent the spot. The Indian word for Stony Creek is Wak-pol-ich-an-i- gan, " Stream of the Snake." lis name is misleading, as there is hardly a stone to be seen in its depths. 2. A road has been opened through the wilderness from the Hiawatha House to Tupper Lake, 12 m. This prob- ably, within 3 m., becomes identical with the one leading from The Wawbeek. Stage daily ; fare, $2,00. (See pp. 170, 265.) 264 THE ADIRONDACK^. 3. From " Bartlett's Landing " we cross the lake to Hotel Wawbeek, 2 m. above Rustic Lodge on the W. shore and pass over the " Sweeney Carry " 3 m. to Raquette River (Tromblee's). From here to Big Tupper Lake it is 11 m. Hence the distance saved in comparison with the Stony Creek route is about 12 m. The "Sweeney Carry "is a pleasant forest road passing, for most of the distance, through an immense sugar-bush. The proprietor of The Wawbeek and Oliver Tromblee, who keeps the small hotel at the river end of the portage, furnish transportation. Price, $1.50 per load ; passengers, 75 cents each ; party of several, 50 cents each. At Trom- blee's, good meals are obtained for 75 cents. A lovelier picture is rarely seen than that beheld from the commanding eminence on which The Wawbeek is seated.* Beautiful green islands frequently fringed with beaches of white sand, stud the waters of the lake in front, and on the right and left. Old Whiteface, with the light spot on his brnw ever conspicuous, towers grandly into the sky, asserting his supremacy over many other ambitious peaks that rise and face him, dim and shadowy in the dis- tance. Far, far beyond the vision's utmost grasp, the un- broken forest stretches away. It is a scene to be viewed for hours with increasing delight. The Wawbeek is a pre-eminently attractive and fashion- able summer resort. In architecture it is very picturesque, and with its shapely towers and grand proportions forms an imposing feature in a landscape that claims the admira- tion of every beholder. Broad verandas nearly encircle the building, offering shaded promenades and views of scenery full of varied beauty and grandeur. It has nearly all of the modern appointments, including public and pri- vate baths. Open fire-places enliven the office and many of the apartments. From nearly every room (each high, spacious and well- equipped) may be witnessed an animated water-scene, a •Tills Hotel derived Its name from tlie great boulder lying on tlie sloping grounds ; Waw'oeelc. being tlie Indian word lor " Big Rock.". UPPER SARANAC LAKE. HOTEL WAWBEEK. 265 virgin forest and numerous mountains. It has thorough sanitary improvements approved by experts. Pure water from a distant spring, mountain-born, is conducted through the house in iron pipes. Wall-tents (carpeted) and hand- some cottages suitably furnished and especially desirable to those seeking perfect quiet and better air are dispersed amid the leaf-fringed grounds. The table is liberal ; perhaps unexcelled. Boating, fish- ing, rambling through the woods, games of billiards, cro- quet and lawn-tennis are among the amusements enjoyed. Every possible arrangement has been made to promote the health, comfort and enjoyment of 200 guests. Camp- outfits are procurable here. Telegraph and post-office (Wawbeek, N. Y.) in the house. Steamers touch at the landing daily and convey passengers to the different camps and hotels on the lake. Fare to Saranac Inn, via stage and boat, $1.25. 4. A stage runs daily from Hotel Wawbeek over a good road through the forest (9 m.) to Tupper Lake Village, there connecting with trains on the Northern Adirondack R. R., (stage fare $150) and with steamer for Big Tupper Lake (3 m ). (See p. 170.) Fish Creek enters the lake on the W. side, 3 m. above The Wawbeek and 4 m. below Saranac Inn. By paddling up the stream a short distance admission is gained to a chain of upward of 20 smiling ponds, tributary waters of the Upper Saranac, closely interlacing with each other, which may be visited in detail without carrying over 100 r. in the entire trip. In regular order, Lower, Middle and Upper Fish Creek and Big Square Ponds are traversed. It is % m. up the creek from Upper Pond to Mud Pond, and 1 m. thence up the same stream to Duck Pond ; Little Copperas and Little Square Ponds follow in close succession ; and 1 m. farther still by inlet takes us to Floodwood Pond. Here 23 266 THE ADIRONDACKS. the course becomes identical with Route No. 7, p.[27o. In this "Hunter's Paradise" the sportsman's "occupation is never gone."* Parties visiting this lake formerly camped upon Bear Point, 3 m. above The Wawbeek ; Watch Point 2 m. above that ; Buck Island and Goose Island 2 or 3 m. from the head : and Birch Island near the foot of the lake. 6 AND 7. Saranac Inn is located on an elevated plateau at the northern end of Upper Saranac Lake. Standing on a pe- ninsula, it commands a water view of nearly three miles in a semi-circle, dotted here and there with beautiful islands, — forming a picture of transcendent loveliness. Beyond are numerous elevations of great variety and beauty, and far- ther back tower the principal mountains of the Adiron- dacks, of which no other situation, if Lake Placid is ex- cepted, affords so fine a survey. Marcy, Mclntyre, Hay- stack, Colden, Whiteface, Wallface, Seward, the Long Lake Group, Ampersand, Mt. Morris and the Tupper Lake Range, Wolf, Cascade and Mt. St. Regis are all visible from the hotel and places near. The scenery at this point is impressive in the extreme, ranking with the finest in the region, and should be viewed by all tourists to the Great Forest. Saranac Inn is one of the oldest resorts in the Adiron- dacks and for many years it bore the name of " Houghs." With its new and extensive additions it is adapted to the wants of 125 guests. All useless display and ostentation are carefully avoided, it being furnished in a manner to conform to the pleasure and convenience of the occupants. It is a select family hotel, possessing in the quiet elegance •Deer Pond Is reached by a carry leading- westward from the W. shore, at a point about midway between the mouth of Fish Creek and The Wawbeek. The carry to Deer pond passes near Brandy Pond (N.) which is a short distance from the lake. Follow the path leading from Saginaw Bay. on the E. side of the lake, 1 m. S. E. to reach Big and Little Weller Ponds (linked closely together), lying near Boot-bay Mt. , and about midway between Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes. They are quite attractive. Black Pond is visited by carrying from th? E. side of the head o: the lake, lj< m. S. E. UPPER SARANAC LAKE. SARANAC INN. 267 of its appointments more of the characteristics of a private home than of a public house. It is liberally patronized by Boston, New York and Philadelphia families of social prominence, and is a favorite haunt of President Cleve- land, whose picturesque cottage is charmingly situated on the well-shaded and park-like grounds. The excellent character the inn has gained is largely due to the long and efficient management of D. W. Riddle. The table is above criticism. Not to name the different delicacies offered to gratify the taste, it is always supplied in the proper season with the various dainties that lake and forest produce. Upper Saranac Lake has always been a famous sporting locality, and is still entitled to that reputation. Salmon- trout of large size are frequently taken from its waters. The fishing, it is claimed, is better here and in the imme- diate vicinity than in any other locality. Within a radius of three miles are over thirty lakes and ponds, all abound- ing in trout ; many frequented by deer. Other desirable fishing and hunting grounds more remote are easily reached from this place. Boats and camp-supplies may be procured at the Inn ; also suitable conveyances for drives to various points of in- terest in the neighborhood. Of these, the excursion to Bloomingdale (13 m.) over an excellent turnpike road; to Lower Saranac Lake (13 m.); and to Paul Smith's (17 m.) are especially recommended. A road, in fair condition, extends through the woods 7 y 2 m. W. to Blue Pond, a sta- tion on the N. A. R. R. (See p. 182.) In the Inn will be found a telephone, a telegraph station and a post-office (" Saranac Inn, N. Y."). The hotel stage runs daily, over a fine road through a virgin forest to Saranac Inn Station (2 m.; fare, 50 cts.), connecting with trains on the A. & St. L. R. R. and steam- ers on the lake ; also to Bloomingdale Station, (13 m. ; fare, $1.50) on the C. R. R. With the voyage through the Upper Saranac, in the fairy little steamers Loon and Saranac, touching at The Wawbeek, Rustic Lodge, " Bartlett's " and other landings, all will be enchanted. 268 THE AD1RONDACKS. It will be noticed that Saranac Inn may now be reached without the slightest hardship by means of the luxurious cars on that Ideal Line of "the Thousand Lakes," the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., either via Malone or Herkimer. Tourists on the Chateaugay R. R. en route to this place or to other points on the lake, should leave that line at Loon Lake and take cars on the A. and St. L. R. R. j and those coming via the Northern Adirondack R. R. should make the same kind of change at Tupper Lake Junction. {See pp. 169, 182, 234.) (This is Route No. 6 to Tupper Lake.) Pleasant Boat Excursions fro7n Saranac Inn. {Round Trips.) Starting from Saranac Inn in a light boat, we row gen- erally in a westerly direction through the northern end of Upper Saranac Lake and through Spring Pond; landing at the W. end of that sheet 1 JS^ m. from the house. A carry of }& m. takes us to Green Pond, across which we row }4 m. landing on its west bay. The carry to Folingsby- Clear is about Yz m., and the boat is then launched on one the prettiest ponds in this section. Through this we row about 2 miles; the general direction being S. W. and the course a winding one. On the W. shore of this pond, and near the southern end, the boat is taken out and carried about yi rn. into Fish Creek. From here the windings of this stream are followed E. of S. (passing by Big Square Pond and through Fish Creek Ponds) until we reach Up- per Saranac Lake at Fish Creek Bay. On the S. bank of this bay, an old clearing may be seen where the elder St. Germain had his hut many years ago, and who killed more tons of fish than any other man has ever taken out of the Saranac waters. From here the row home is just 4 miles, passing Whitney Point, Buck Island, Burnt Point, Moss Rock Point, Markham Point and Green and Dry Islands en route. The carries amount in all to about 1 m., while the water course is about 10 miles. Total, n miles. This trip may be varied by rowing almost due S. from the Inn to the southern part of West Bay (of Upper Sara- nac Lake); carrying y 2 m. S. W. to the S. end of Folingsby- Clear; thence boating down the outlet of that lakelet into ffl z > z D (/i n o ' -i H > m c T3 > 70 > ■z > r > m ROUTES FROM UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 269 Lower Fish Creek Pond, and from that water back to the house as before.* Of course, Spring, Green and the larger part of Folingsby-Clear are not seen. The walking amounts to only y* m. and the rowing to a little more than 8 miles. A somewhat similar excursion, but longer and prettier, is made by carrying from Spring Pond to Hoel, i m.; rowing across Hoel, i m.,f and through Turtle and Slang; carry- ing % or y 2 mile to Big Long; rowing 2 m., through Big Long; carrying J^ m. to East Pine; rowing J^ m. through that pond; carrying % m. to Floodwood, and passing down the whole length of Fish Creek, into Upper Saranac Lake, and thence to Saranac Inn. This tour involves about 2^ miles of walking and some 15 miles of rowing, making total distance, \i% miles. (See 265.) Distances from Saranac Inn to Loon Lake House, (via A. & St. L. R. R.)J Meacham Lake, (byroad via " Paul's ") Paul Smith's Hotel, (by road) . (by water)§ . (by A. & St. L. R. R.) Rainbow Lake, (Wardner's) (by A. & St. L. R.R.)|| .... Bloomingdale Station, (C. R. R ) Bloomingdale "Bartlett's," (Saranac Club House) Indian Carry, (Rustic Lodge) Sweeney " (Hotel Wawbeek) Raquette River, (via Hotel Wawbeek) Lower Saranac Lake, (via A. & St. L. R. R.) " (by water) ' " (by road) Blue Pond Station, (N. A. R. R ) *A carry leads from Upper Saranac Lake (N. of West Bay) to N. end of Folingsby-Clear Pond, % m. W. t From Hoel P. we may visit St. Regis P., by carrying 1 u m. N. E. (See p. 245.) About midway of the carry a small pond is passed. iThe distance given on p. 234 is from Loon Lake and not from the hotel. It Is 1 m. farther than named. 5 For routes from Saranac Inn to Paul Smith's by water, see pp. 244-246. 1 This distance was erroneously printed on page 237, lljtf miles. 24V ', miles. 29 17 10 (1 14 a I2 1 /; ' 11 13 13 8*1 11 / « i 8 11 8 it 11 it 12J4 / 11 20 ^ J3 *■ !< TV 270 THE ADIRONDACKS. Saranac Inn Station, (A. & St. L. R. R.) . 2 miles. Ray Brook House, (via A. & St. L. R. R.) 16 \£ " Lake Placid, (via A. & St. L. & S. & L. P. R. R.) .... igtf " Big Tupper Lake, (via Hotel Wawbeek) . 22 Little Tupper Lake, ( " " ) 37# " Tupper Lake Junction, (via A. & St. L. R. R.) 17 " North Elba, (via A. & St. L. R. R. and carriage) . . . 19 " Adirondack Lodge, (via A. & St. L. R. R. and carriage) . . . . 26^ " Keene Valley, (via A. & St. L. R. R. and carriage) .... 37 " Elizabethtown, (via A. & St. L. R. R. and carriage) . . . 44 " Westport, (via A. & St. L. R. R. and carriage) 52 Plattsburg, (via A. & St. L. & C. R. R.) 76 Malone, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) . 46^ " Herkimer, ( " " " ) . . 130^ " Route (No. 7.) from Saranac Inn to Big Hod, Floodwood, Rollins, Wolf, etc, approximate distances Inlet, .... Spring Pond, Portage, Green Pond, Portage, HoelPond, . Portage, Mud Turtle Pond, . Stream, . Slang Pond, Portage, Big Long Pond, Portage, Floodwood Pond, Portage, Rollin's Pond, Portage, Tupper Lake, via Ponds, with % mile. % " H " % " % " 1 5 rods. 1 mile. 10 rods. }4 mile. y* " 2 1 i# " x " 2 a " raw-Si<^ < -J U < z < a. < in a a 3 O x H < o on >■ a O CQ < a ROUTES FROM UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 27 I Mosquito Pond, y 2 mile. Portage, . i^ " Little Long Pond, . . x 4 " Portage, . . ii/ 2 " Big Wolf Pond, . • 3 " Portage, ... y 2 " Little Wolf Pond, . . ^ " Little Wolf Brook, . . 5 " Raquette Pond, (crossing a portion of it) i " Raquette River, . . . 2 " Total, . . 29 Spring Pond is noted for the transparency of its waters. Green Pond is a most lovely sheet. Hoel Pond is famed for the abundance of trout it fur- nishes all the year through. Mud Turtle Pond affords but few lily-pads for deer. Slang Pond, on the contrary, is silvered over with them, especially at its upper extremity, and hence is very at- tractive to that animal. Portions of the shores of Big Long Pond are composed of marshy ground. Between Big Long and Floodwood Ponds a stream en- ters the outlet, flowing from Rainbow and Pine Ponds N. W. By carrying N. W. from these waters we may reach Dry Channel, Ledge, Windfall, Blue, McDonald, East, etc. Ponds, sources of St. Regis River. (See pp 160, 241, 242.) Long P. affords good springs and an abundance of trout. Clam-shell P. lies a short distance N. Floodwood P. has several very pretty islands, one of which is called Beaver Isle. It is a beautiful and favorite location for camping. From this pond by Route No. 5 (p. 265) we may descend the Fish Creek waters 4^ m. to the U. Saranac, and pass up the lake 4 m. to Saranac Inn. Rollin's, or Rawlin's P. — a delightful sheet, commanding noble views of Mt. Seward and subordinate peaks — con- tains Camp and three or four other picturesque islands. By following the inlet entering its N. extremity from the 272 THE ADIRONDACKS. N. W., we may visit White Pine P. ; and by carrying thence we will reach Mountain, River, Wells, etc., Ponds, head- waters of Jordan and St. Regis Rivers."* Mosquito P. is a dismal sheet; shores low and swampy; scenery gloomy and desolate. Between Mosquito and Lit- tle Long Ponds, acres of the marshy ground tremble be- neath our feet like the throbbing caused by an earthquake. Big Wolf P., a bewitching lake with shining beaches of sand nearly encircling it, is renowned for the large-sized trout it has produced. In 187 1 Dr. Perkins, of Albany, brought one over the side of his boat weighing 25^ lbs. ; and " North Elba " Blin took therefrom a 30-pounder. But latterly none larger than 12 lbs. are taken. Cold springs and good camping sites abound here. Just below Little Wolf P. a stream enters Wolf Brook, flowing from Lead and Woodbury Ponds, lying E. and N. E. Wolf Brook is exceedingly crooked and frequently shallow. It may be avoided by carrying 2 m. S. to Raquette Pond. {For Tupper Lake Village on Raquette Pond, see p. 169 ) The "Wolf Pond Route," as this is called, being rough and swampy in many places, is only traveled by adven- turous hunters and fishermen. Ladies seldom attempt to follow it. The A. & St. L. R. R. passes near this group of waters. At the village of Ausable Forks (Ind., Tei-o-ho—ho-gen, " The Forks of a River ") at the junction of the E. and W. branches of the wild and turbulent Ausable River, the traveler journeying toward the Saranac Lakes may diverge from the plank road by a most romantic route, destined to become a popular avenue to the Wilderness. It possesses the advantages of being shorter than the one via Franklin Falls, and what is more interesting, it passes through the celebrated Wilmington Notch, a deep and wonderful chasm piercing the E. flank of Whiteface Mountain. •From liollin's P. carry a m. E.; cross Whey P., (1 x K); carry 1 m. E.; cross Big Square P. (1% x 1)— tlms reaching Upper Fish Creek Ponds. Simons P., a tributary of Rollins P., lies, not far, N. W. of it, and N..W. of that is Mountain Pond. BIG FALLS. WILMINGTON NOTCH. WILMINGTON. 273 From Ausable Forks to Wilmington via Lower Jay it is 11 m.; via Black Brook, 9 m.; and thus the route may be shortened 2 m. by making Black Brook instead of Ausable Forks the diverging point, and pursuing the W. branch in place of the E. branch of the Ausable. Wilmington to Wilmington Notch, 5J^m.; thence to North Elba, 6)^ m ; thence to Lower Saranac Lake, 10 m. North Elba to Lake Placid, 2 m. Wilmington is pleasantly located on the banks of the W. Ausable and near the base of Whiteface Mountain, in the midst of some of the most grand and imposing scenery of the region. Why is it that this quiet little village, encircled with a noble amphitheatre of mountains, and really wrapped in dreamy charms, is not thronged with summer visitors ? Tourists familiar with the White Mountains, visiting this place, would pronounce it the Bethlehem of the Adiron- dacks. In the vicinity are numerous beds of iron ore, formerly mined with fair success, while other industries flourished. But now neglected and deserted mills and forges give evidence of prosperity long since departed There should be an immediate recovery from this state of obscurity. Wilmington has been isolated too long from the outside world, when it ought to be one of the best patronized re- sorts in the whole range of mountain travel. The Bliss House is pleasantly situated within 5 rods of the W. side of the river, and provides for the wants of 40 guests. The table is very satisfactory, being amply sup- plied with fresh milk, cream, butter, eggs, fruit and vege- tables. An abundance of pure spring-water is a feature of the place. A croquet plat and a lawn tennis-court will be found on the grounds. The Storrs House is located on the E. side of the river and has good accommodations for about 35 guests. At either hotel boats may be engaged to use on the river, which here affords fair navigation for nearly \}i miles; an exception to the general rule. The Ausable, whose birthplace is in the Indian Pass and among wilds and tarns almost inaccessible, is so fierce and 274 THE ADIRONDACKS. rocky a stream that boats can rarely travel on its waters. From its highest source (Scott Ponds, on the heights of Wallface) to Lake Champlain, a distance of less than 50 m., it falls over 3,000 f t ; and for a large portion of its course it passes through the wildest scenery imaginable. Well shaded and picturesque rambles and drives may be enjoyed in the neighborhood of Wilmington. Both hotels furnish conveyances for ascending White- face Mt. From base to summit the distance is 6}( m. Travelers are conveyed with carriages 2^ m.; then saddle- horses are taken for the remainder of the ascent, 3^ m., the route passing over Pack-horse Mt. All should pause, on the way, at " Pt. Lookout " and cast a backward glance at the beautiful landscape spread below. The enterprising proprietors of the hotels have erected a rustic lodge 80 rods below the summit, where good lunches and comfort- able lodgings are provided. Hospitality nearly a mile above tide is a virtue worihy of celebration. The charge for guide is $2 50; guide and horse, $5 ; saddle-horse, without guide, $4. Whiteface Mountain (Ind., Wa-ho-par-te-nie, also Wa- pa-si-ni, " White Head ") derived its name from an ava- lanche that swept down its western slope nearly 90 years ago (1806), laying bare a great extent of light gray rock. Viewed from a distance this slide presents a whitish ap- pearance, especially near the crown. Whiteface is in some respects the grandest pinnacle in this princely range. Sev- eral authorities before recent surveys pronounced it the loftiest. It furnishes, according to Emmons, a greater ex- tent of surface upon its summit, formed of chaotic masses of rocks, than any other mountain of the northern coun- ties. It is abrupt in its acclivities, symmetrical in its pro- portions, isolated in its situation, and commands the most extended and magnificent prospect of all the group. Look- ing toward the E. we behold the broad bosom of Lake Champlain, the emerald slopes of the Green Mountains, (Mansfield pre-eminent) and the shadowy outlines of the "White Hills," with intervening woodland and cultivated fields. To the S., Adirondack sublimity breaks upon the eye, " majestic forms towering above airy masses," proudly WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN. WILMINGTON PASS. 275 conspicuous among which are Mclntyre, Nipple Top, and the grand Tahawus. In the W. we discern a limitless ex- panse of dense forests where gleams of silver disclose the location of the Saranacs, the Tuppers, and a multitude of other lakes ; while at the N. we overlook the flashing mir- ror of Lake Ontario, the glittering waters of the St. Law- rence, the spires and turrets of Montreal, and the far- spreading wilderness of the Canadas. At the foot of the mountain lies Lake Placid — a picture of fairy land — the most lovely feature of a landscape presenting such variety "that all the elements of beauty and grandeur seem blend- ed together."* Stages usually depart daily from Wilmington for Ausable Station, North Elba, Lake Placid, Elizabethtown and Westport. Leaving Wilmington and approaching the Notch (Ind., Kurloo-na, "Spot of the Death-Song") we pause to in- spect and admire on the way The Flume (2 m), an at- tractive natural wonder ; Little Falls, (3%! m.), a dashing, charming cascade ; Big Falls (4% m ), where the Ausable leaps down a precipice of 100 feet into the dark abyss below, and Copperas Pond (100 acres) lying far up the slopes of Promontory Mountain. The waters of this little mere are strongly impregnated with sulphate of iron and in the vicinity native copperas is found in rich profusion. Entering the colossal portals of the Pass we are filled with amazement and awe by its utter wildness and savage grandeur. Here the Ausable, compressed to a few feet in breadth, bursts through the mountain obstruc- tion and thunders onward in its furious career. On the right, Whiteface, with almost perpendicular ascent, towers in awful majesty 2,000 ft. above the river's bed. Upon the opposite side another precipitous mass attains an altitude of nearly equal sublimity. Thus for nearly 2 m. does this shadowy gorge extend, and through one-eighth of that dis- tance its tremendous walls so nearly approach each other that scant space is allowed for the road and stream. Short- ly after emerging from this wonderful gateway of natural •It Is saifl that 60 lakes can be counted from the summit of Mt. Whiteface. 276 THE ADIRONDACKS. masonry by deviating to the r. by a " turn-off"* from the traveled route, Lake Placid may be examined ; but it is usually visited via North Elba, from which it is 2 miles. (See Lake Placid and North Elba; Route' 25th.) Again the tourist approaching the Saranac lakes via Port Kent, by making a detour from the regular route, also at Ausable Forksf and following the E. branch of the Ausa- ble over a good road, may visit Keene Valley, one of the most delightful and impressive of all the Adirondack haunts. By this approach he passes through superb val- ley, river and mountain scenery ; Clark, Hamlin, Bassett, McDonough, Whiteface and the more distant peaks of Keene being frequently in view. From Ausable Forks to Lower Jay, a very pretty village, it is 6 m.; thence to Upper Jay, 3 m.; Keene Center, 5 m.; Keene Valley Village, 5 m ; St. Hubert's. Inn, at the head of the " Valley," 3 m. Total, 22 m. Here the old-time highway terminates, but an excellent road extends 3^ m. farther S. to Lower Ausable Lake. Stage daily to Keene Valley. This lovely vale is usually more conveniently reached from Westport via Elizabethtouin, and in that connection it is fully described. (See Route Twenty-fifth^) From Keene Center it is 5 m. to Cascade Lakes; 10 m. to Mountain View House ; 13 m. to North Elba; 15 m. to Lake Placid, and 23 m. to Lower Saranac Lake. The pro- posed Ausable Valley R. R. (the route is already surveyed) to extend from Keeseville, present terminus of the Keese- *The Notch House, now closed, is about midway between Wilmington and North Elba. Prom here Owen P. a short distance E., and Conery P , v in W., are visited. Only 1 m. from the latter to Lake Placid, and \u to Mirror Lake. Holoomb P. (ix %)— very romantic— lies x m. from the Pass road, and several other lakelets sparkle in the vicinity. tThe railroad station first called "Point of Rocks," and afterwards "Ausable,"' Is now styled "Rogers." This was named In honor of J & J Rogers, owners of the vast iron-works at Black Brook and Ausable Forks' established by their family over 60 years ago. The y have recently erected an immense sulphite pulp-mill at Ausable Forks, and the railroad has been extended from " Rogers' Station " to this place. They own 75,000 acres of land in the vicinity. One-fourth mile S. of this village is a remarkable gorge called "Trumbull's Glen." > c > CO < z o H o z z o H n PORT KENT. AUSABLE CHASM. 277 ville, Ausable Chasm & Lake Champlain R. R., through Upper and Lower Jay to Keene Valley, and thence to Lake Placid, there to connect with the S. & L. P. R. R., will offer the traveler, when completed, a fine opportunity to take delightful all-rail round trips from Plattsburg via the C. R. R. or from Port Kent via the K., A. C, & L. C. R. R. Twenty-fourth. — Port Kent (Lake Side House, and Trembleau Hall), 15 m. S. of Plattsburg, occupies a com- manding eminence nearly opposite Burlington, Vt., 10 m. distant. The view afforded from its elevated site is very extended and beautiful. (See p. 223.) The route thence lies via Keeseville, 5 m. W., now conveniently reached by the K„ A. C, & L. C. R. R. Between these two villages is the celebrated Ausable Chasm, or, as it was formerly called " the Walled Banks of the Ausable," situated on Ausable River. The road crosses a bridge at the head of the gorge, and the Chasm, along its whole length, is accessible from the public highway. Hence, it may be visited without labor or fatigue. This stupendous phenomenon has been well described as one of the natural wonders of the world. Miss Bremer, the Swed- ish author, while gazing on the scene with enraptured won- der and the delight of genius, exclaimed, that " a visit to it would reward a voyage from Europe." We have seen no better description of Ausable Chasm (twice visited, but not thoroughly explored by us) than that by the pen of Clifford P. McCalla, appearing in Scribner's Magazine several years since. From this we are induced to quote: " A pleasant ride brought us to the precincts of Ausable Chasm and the elegant little chalet that guards its portal, and where books, geological specimens and views of the scenery may be obtained. Entering it, and arming our- selves with alpenstocks, we were shown through the op- posite door, which opened upon a stairway leading down to the cliff (entrance fee to those not guests, 75 cents), and informed that the freedom of the Chasm was ours. The moment we reached the bottom, Rainbow Falls, the Niag- ara of Ausable Chasm, and a charming prelude to the 278 THE ADIRONDACKS. grander panorama about to be unfolded, flashed upon our sight. The falls are twins, separated by a rocky tower, and on either side of it the massive current pours down the abyss an amber sheet of water (70 ft.). Just as we neared the base of the cataract the sun painted a prismatic arc upon the up-leaping spray. " From this point the tour began. We stood upon the level adamantine shore of Ausable River, near the center of an immense amphitheatre, with lofty vertical walls of rock on either side, and a rocky pavement beneath our feet.* We were in the bowels of the earth, in a natural canal, threaded in the middle only by a stream which careered through it from end to end, no particle of soil ad- hering to either the bottom or side of the gorge. Every spring and autumn the swollen torrent sweeps through it, often rising fifty feet above the usual level, carrying every- thing movable in its path, and polishing the floor and walls of the Chasm as thoroughly as an army of stone-masons could do it. Nature was the builder, and is still the jani- trix of Ausable Chasm. Its cyclopean walls bear the im- press of her architectural skill. She laid the tessellated floor with variegated stone. She dusts it with the wind, waters it with the rain, and cleans house always twice a year in good orthodox style ; and woe be to him who has the temerity to linger within doors on either of these grand occasions. " Our Nestor, he over whose physical frame seventy-four winters had passed, but whose spirit seemed to have been basking only in the light and warmth of seventy-four sum- mers, was quick to appreciate the smooth pavement over which we walked. It was faultless. Not a drop of water moistened it. Scarcely an inequality was apparent on its surface. " Soon we came in view of Horse Shoe Falls and Lean- ing Tower, and stepped over a tiny rivulet, which is an off- shoot from the main stream, upon Rock Island, between which and the opposite shore are the falls. They are not •The walls rise perpendicularly on either side rrom 50 to 176 ft. while the width of the canyon rarely exceeds 30 ft.; and in several places the stupen- dous masonry of the opposite walls approaches within S or 10 ft. The length of the Chasm proper is atoout 2 miles. AUSABLE CHASM. 279 lofty, but exceedingly beautiful. They pour a rapid tor- rent, which hurries over jagged rocks to form a series of foaming cascades. Pictorially this water-view is one of the gems of the Chasm. The Leaning Tower nearly opposite, a beetling cliff one hundred and fifty feet in height, over- hangs the gorge, simultaneously threatening and protecting it ; and adds materially to the grandeur of the scene. " Turning a sharp angle at this point we were face to face with a galaxy of wonders. Foremost was the battle of the waters, waged between the rival cascades, — the devil presumably viewing it from his Oven, opposite, and Jacob from his Ladder, — we together forming a mixed throng of beholders. The ceaseless conflict of those watery foes — every -wave-crest being a tongue and having a voice — I never can forget. The scene, looking up the current from the foot of the Ladder, is inexpressibly lovely ; while that below, where the gorge contracts and assumes the appear- ance of embattled ramparts, the one side almost touching the other, is akin to the sublime. Jacob's Ladder scales the heights on the middle line between the two, and it is well named, since it can only be climbed in one's dreams ; while the Devil's Oven is a deep, dark hole, 20 ft. high at its entrance and 30 ft. deep, just like many another named for him the world over. " One evening there was a spell upon the Chasm, from Rainbow Falls to the Devil's Oven ; and it was suggested that that potent fairy, Fata Morgana, might have been the creator of its meteoric phenomena. Palisade walls, raging rapids, resounding waterfalls, were all ablaze with light. The marvels of nature were heightened by art. Flam- beaux and mimic conflagrations deep down in the gorge produced a unique exhibition of pyrotechnics. In the weird light the cascades danced with ghostly splendor, and the walls of the Chasm were crimsoned as with blood. The grand central fire was in the Devil's Oven, whence myriad tongues of flame crackled and shot forth. Stationary and shifting torches flared as far as the eye could see, while be- tween and among them all, the tide of humanity ebbed and flowed, every face aglow with light and wonder. Neither verbal nor pictorial delineation can do more than faintly 28o THE ADIRONDACKS. suggest the splendor of the pageant at the illumination of Ausable Chasm. " A rustic bridge spans the river opposite the Devil's Oven ; crossing by it, we scaled the heights beyond by an airy stairway of 212 steps. Proceeding along the cliff, we speedily came to a descending flight of steps, where we were all charmed into a silence, only broken by exclama- tions of surprise and wonder. The reach of view is stu- pendous, both in length and depth. Through a gigantic buttressed aisle, for nearly one thousand feet, the flow of water is as straight as an arrow, moving with such depth and calmness that its liquid pavement wears the similitude of solid glass. The towering walls, with their fragmentary edges all water-worn, exhibit plainly the action of freshet and flood. From no point is the view grander than from the summit of this stairway. Cedars and pines brood over the gorge, overspreading its gulf with an evergreen canopy. Below, to the rear of the stairs, embosomed in a vast rocky fissure, unnumbered ferns are grouped, carpeting the cave with their delicate fronds, and completing this bower of greenery. If the fairies haunt this dell, this nook must be their presence-chamber. " Turning from the enchanted spot, the vista to the right is as singularly picturesque. On a ledge below, not access- ible to man, but readily so to the prince of darkness, is the Devil's Punch Bowl. The story goes that Satan, after cooking his daily meal in the Oven, resorts to the Punch Bowl to inaugurate his midnight debauch. To us the basin seemed to hold only pellucid water. If any other liquor is brewed in it, it is done so mysteriously as to leave no after trace. " The origin of the Chasm is betrayed by the semi-cir- cular excavations apparent in various parts of its walls. These rock-hieroglyphics, which can be read by any geol- ogist, are many feet above the present water-level, and were evidently chiseled by the water. Like Niagara the Ausable owes its formation to the persistent quarrying of the water, aided at the outset, probably, by a volcanic up- heaval of nature, by which the rocks were partially riven. Ripple marks are visible throughout the chasm at every AUSABLE CHASM. 251 stage of its height, and geologists have found numerous specimens of bivalvular mollusks, termed lingular " To adequately describe all the freaks of nature here would require a book rather than the brief compass of a magazine article, and we must hurry on, merely naming Mystic Gorge, a deep lateral fissure extending on both sides of the river; Cape Eternity, a beetling promontory on the side opposite to the spectator; Hyde's Cave, an- other rift in the rocks forming a double cave ; Castle Rock, Tarpeian Cliff and Druid Rock. " The gallery of the Via Mala, however, merits especial mention, since it distinguishes Ausable above every other glen in this country yet opened, and affiliates it to the famous Splugen Pass and Gorge du Tridnt in Switzerland. Until last year this portion of the Chasm was inaccessible to visitors, and could only be viewed from a distance, above or below ; now it is easy of access, and as safe, even for a child, as any other section. At a height of fifty feet above the stream and for a distance of more than one hundred feet in length, a substantial gallery is firmly fixed by bolts into the perpendicular wall of the gorge. Here you view this lusus natural with unrivaled facilities for studying its rock revelations — the cliffs above, the water below, and the laminas of the strata at their various stages up to the summit. My companion had returned but a month prior to this time from the usual European tour, in- cluding a run through Switzerland and over the Alps into Italy, and he pronounced Ausable Chasm unparalleled this side of the canyons of the Yellowstone in America, and only equaled by them, and by the noted Alpine passes in Switzerland. " A host of grotesque natural curiosities discoverable from this point onward can be here merely named, such as Smugglers' Pass, Moorish Castle, the Alcove, the Study, and Decoy Ledge. The Reception Room is formed by a ledge of sandstone rock overhanging the path, and in which there are numerous cavities, that visitors have util- ized by making receptacles for their cards. I found auto- graphs in the English, Japanese and Turkish languages, from which it is apparent that the fame of this Chasm has 282 THE ADIRONDACKS. reached from the Occident to the orient. These cavities are protected from both wind and weather, and their ac- cumulations grow richer with each day's throng of visitors. " Descending the last stairway in the gorge we arrive at Old Point Comfort, opposite Sentinel, Table and Cathedral Rocks, and the point of embarkation for the boat-ride through the flume. (Fare, 50 cts.) Here we gained an experience in navigation which at first, from its perfect novelty, was bewildering, but once enjoyed, was sought after again and again. " This boat ride was strange enough. The boat itself was of the most primitive pattern, flat-bottomed, square at both ends, and with no pretensions to either grace or beauty. But when seated in it we could see nothing ex- cept the colossal walls and peaks about us, and were lost in admiration and in anticipation of the yet stranger scenes beyond. In a moment the boat was loosed from its moorings, and guided by the boatman, began to descend with the current through the cavernous fissure. It seemed like drifting through the nether world. The walls arose perpendicularly on either side to the height of one hundred and seventy- five feet, and gradually contracted until ten feet would measure the gap between them. " During this ride the voyager cannot realize his posi- tion. He glides for a distance of one thousand feet, first over rapid and then placid waters, shut in by cyclopean walls which as he advances between them close upon him, the sky above reduced to a ribbon's breadth, and the water almost literally running upon its edge, being fourteen feet wide and forty feet in depth. It is the concluding and crowning feature of Ausable Chasm, and one of the mar- vels of picturesque America. " The ride ends most gracefully. As the boat glides from between the narrow walls it sweeps out into a charm- ing bay, termed the Basin, where the rock-architecture is imposing, the water as clear as crystal, and the rounded view one of romantic beauty. The origin of the French name of this stream, formerly called " Sandy River," be- came apparent here. Both its bed and the neighboring shores are covered with sand. Au Sable (pronounced, AUSABLE CHASM. 283 O-sahb'-l) Riviere signifies " the sand river," or "river of sand." The flinty particles are all the results of erosion, the wearing away of the rocks by the water. At different points farther down the stream, and also at ils mouth, there are numerous beautiful sandy bars. " The following stories connected with the glen are well authenticated. Until a few years ago a bridge spanned the Chasm at the point where it is narrowest. This bridge was suffered to decay, and was finally disused. There re- mained of it at last only a single squared girder. Over this a mad-cap boy would sometimes venture, for a freak, but none were known to cross by it except such as were possessed of the insanity of youth. One dark night a clergyman on horseback approached it. He had been ab- sent abroad for several years. When he had been familiar with this section of country the Ausable bridge was the usual avenue of approach to his home. He knew nothing of its subsequent ruin. Upon drawing near it in the dark- ness he confidently spurred his horse onward. When the horse's hoofs struck the single beam which remained of the bridge the rider sought to penetrate the darkness, but could not. Dropping the reins on the neck of his brave steed, he abandoned his thoughts to reverie. He was pass- ing over the wild gorge of the Ausable, with which he had been acquainted in youth and early manhood, and where he had indulged in many a perilous adventure, long before the Chasm had been prepared by art for the easy access of the timorous visitor. How many changes he might find upon his return — old faces buried, old landmarks removed, old houses fallen into decay. Before he had concluded this waking dream the hoofs of his trusty animal no longer echoed upon the bridge, but struck the solid ground upon the other side. He was safely over, without an in- timation that he had risked the smallest danger. Not until he had reached his home, and told by what route he had come, did he learn of his tremendous peril. The next morning, when he reviewed, by the light of day, the thread- like pathway over which he had gone, his knees smote to- gether, and he uttered a prayer of thanksgiving for deliver- ance from a horrible death. 284 THE ADIRONDACK^. " A good-for-nothing character in the neighborhood was once caught in the act of theft, near the bridge just de- scribed, in the days when it was the usual avenue of travel. It having been playfully suggested by some one that his morals might be improved by suspending him by the heels for a brief season from the bridge over the Chasm, the punishment was instantly inflicted. The cure proved effectual, but the thief's morals were reformed at the ex- pense of his intellect, for he became a confirmed, though inoffensive, idiot. " A tragedy occurred not many years ago in the Chasm opposite Table Rock, which was formerly reached by walk- ing upon a log over the Chasm, and was a favorite but somewhat dangerous resort of picnic parties, until this tragic event arrested the habit. Mr. Dyer, an Episcopal minister, was in the act of leading a lady across this log, when suddenly losing his balance he fell into the rushing . torrent, and never rose to the surface, nor was his body seen by the horror-stricken spectators until days after- wards, when it was found far below upon a shallow in the river. The beautiful and spacious woods on the rocks above, which have been neatly prepared for the purpose, are usually the scene of these festive gatherings, where often, on a bright summer day, several parties of pleasure seekers may be seen enjoying a healthful recreation and the beauties of the place, each, unless they choose to fraternize, remaining distinct, and undisturbed in their movements. " In the way of description and adventure much more might be written, but it is well to leave something to be discovered by the reader when he shall explore its wonders for himself."* In the Chasm, stairways, bridges, railings and galleries have been built, and other improvements made by the pro- prietors, which, together, enable the visitor to pass through its entire length, with the assistance of a boat, with ease and in safety. "Uppek Ausable Chasm lias lately been opened to the public. A beautiful cascade, Alice Fall, and a boat ride of % of a mile are among Its attractions. A pulp mill near this waterfall detracts much from Its beauty and wlldness. AUSABLE CHASM. LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 285 Lying almost upon the line of one of the most thronged routes of pleasure travel on the continent, and reached with every desirable facility, — and, in addition, associated with numerous and varied other objects of interest, — it is surprising that any tourist, in pursuit of the beautiful and imposing in nature, should pass through Lake Cham- plain without pausing and turning aside to explore the Chasm of the Ausable. It may be reached by a pleasant steamboat excursion from Burlington, or Plattsburg to Port Kent ; or by a delightful carriage ride of 12 m. from Platts- burg. If preferred the Ausable Branch R. R. will take the traveler to the depot at Peru, whence he will be conveyed by livery via Keeseville to the Chasm, or directly there ; a distance of about 7 m. But the only convenient mode of transit is from Port Kent. Therefore it is the usual course of the tourist to leave the steamer, or the cars on the D. & H. R. R. at that place and proceed at once to the scene, via the K , A. C, & L. C. R. R. (3 m.), and visit it at greater leisure, as it clairr.s more than a transient and cur- sory examination. The superior hotel, the interesting ob- jects of attraction, and the pleasant drives in the vicinity render a sojourn there peculiarly agreeable. The hotel coach meets the cars at the Chasm Station, only a few rods N. (fare, 15 cents; round-trip, 25 cents), and private car- riages may always be ordered to accommodate individuals or parties. The Lake View House, owned by the proprietors of Ausable Chasm, stands near this glen, and from its elevat- ed situation commands entrancing views of Lake Cham- plain (500 ft. below) the Green Mountains, and the Adiron- dacks. It is one of the most finely situated hotels America contains. It has every modern appliance, including gas, hot and cold water baths on each floor, telephone, tele- graph, bowling-alleys, billiard room, tennis-court and livery stable, and is first class in every particular. With its cot- tages it offers entertainment to 100 guests. With the vari- ous attractions the vicinity offers, it is a bewitching spot where one may while away the summer months. P. O. Ausable Chasm, N. Y. 286 THE ADIRONDACKS. Keeseville (named from John Keese, the original pro- prietor), an important manufacturing village, located on both sides of the Ausable, enjoys a situation of great beau- ty and picturesqueness. Its streets are adorned with taste- ful residences and stately business blocks. Being the cen- ter and market of an extensive iron district it teems with business activity. Among the objects worthy of inspection, in and around the village, may be named the twine, horse- shoe nail, and wire factories. The Essex Co. Republican, published here, is a sterling paper ably conducted, and invariably contains more news concerning the Adirondack Region than any other journal. The " Adirondack " (formerly " The Delmont ") is the leading hotel, and offers good inducements to permanent or transient guests. In the environs are many delightful drives to charming resorts (aside from Ausable Chasm, 2 m.) that we would gladly examine did space allow. Prospect Hill (1 m.), Hallock Hill (3 m.), and the romantic gorge known as "Poke O'Moonshine," (a pocket edition of the Indian Pass,) 7 m. S. on the road to Elizibethtown (15 m. farther S.) are the most noteworthy points. Lying on the latter route, 2 y 2 miles from Keeseville, is Auger Lake, a picturesque sheet enclosed by a frame of dark green woods, and whose winding shores and singular shape originated its name. Though only i}4 m. long, it affords a coast line of over 6 miles. It is very prolific of large pickerel and black bass. Butternut Pond (% by y 3 ) S. of Auger L , and linked with it by a boatable channel 1 m. in length, is also famous for pickerel. South E. of Butternut P. are warm and Long Ponds ; and S. W. is Trout Pond. Two Story Pond lies S. W. of Long Pond. The Interlaken, a desirable and popular resort, is pleas- antly situated on a slight eminence on the northern end of Auger L., 80 rods from the shore. It commands a noble view of Poke O'Moonshine, Baldface, Bigelow and Ford- way Mountains, and also of those noted pinnacles of Ver- z X (/) z o o O lii O 0- Q Z < < OS UJ o < KEESEVILLE. AUGER LAKE. 287 mont, Mansfield and Camel's Hump. On a clear day the spires of Burlington are visible from the house. This hotel offers good accommodations to 100 guests. It is 3 stories in height and has 250 feet of verandas. Stairways on the outside of the building form perfect fire-escapes. The rooms are spacious and suitably furnished in the latest style. A farm of nearly 300 acres produces an abundance of good things for the table. In the list of attractions are included a lawn tennis-court, a bowling alley and a fleet of good boats. Near the house are beautiful pine groves, wherein delicious rambles and lounging on comfortable seats in leafy retreats are enjoyed. Within a few rods of the hotel there is an object of con- siderable interest styled " Auger Chasm." Through this deep and narrow cleft — flanked by perpendicular walls of solid rock — the outlet of the lake finds a passage. The drives in the neighborhood are varied and interest- ing. To Ausable Chasm the distance is 3^ m ; to Poke O'Moonshine and Baldface Mt., 4^ m. ; to Elizabethtown, 19% m ! t0 Hotel Champlain, 10^ miles. P. O. Keese- ville, N. Y. The distance from Keeseville to Plattsburg via Peru is 16 m., and 15 m. direct. To Rogers' Station (formerly " Point of Rocks "), where the route connects with the one from Plattsburg (Ausable Branch R. R), it is an enchant- ing ride of 9 rh. through the fascinating scenery of Ausable Valley ; the huge, sjmmttric; 1 cone of Whiteface, glorious in its strength and beauty, ever facing us and forming an imposing feature in the landscape.* Miles. From Keeseville to L. Saranac L via Keene Valley, 50 " " " " " Wilmington Pass, 45 " Franklin Falls, 46 " " U. Saranac L. " Franklin Falls, 51 " Paul Smith's, " " " 48 •Locust Hall, located on tills road 1)4 in. abo: e Keeseville. lias been quite prominent as a summer resort. From here 4 m. of boating may be enjoyed upon Ausable Elver. (P. O. Keeseville,) 288 THE ADIRONDACKS. The Keeseville, Ausable Chasm and Lake Cham- plain R. R , running from Port Kent (located on the Del- aware & HuDson R. R.) to Keeseville, will soon be extended to Lake Placid, via Keene Valley. There it will connect with the Saranac and Lake Placid R. R., which is linked with the Chateaugay, and the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railways ; the latter with the Northern Adirondack and the "Great New York Central." Thus, by these combinations, almost endless possibilities in railroad traveling to, through, and from the Adirondacks will be afforded. (See pp. 175, 182, 185, 247.) Twenty-fifth. — Westport is pleasantly situated at the head of Northwest Bay, Lake Champlain, 26^ m. S. of Port Kent, and 505^ m. N. of Whitehall. Westport Inn, and the Richards House are the leading hotels. The dis- tance to Elizabethtown is 8 m. ; thence to Keene Center, 12 m.; North Elba, 13 m.; Lower Saranac Lake, 10 m. Total 43 m. (See pp. 219 and 250.) Elizabethtown to New Russia, 4 m.; North Hudson, \6% m ; Schroon River (" Root's), 2}4 m. Total, 23 m. Elizabethtown (named from the wife of Wm. Gilliland, the noted pioneer; see p. 220), the county seat of Essex Co., is delightfully situated in " Pleasant Valley," upon the banks of Bouquet River,* a tributary of Lake Champlain. It is the favorite resort of many people of refinement, also of artists, who are attracted by the charms of the locality. After the summer season commences its hotels and even private houses are often thronged with visitors desirous of passing their vacations in the quiet enjoyment of mountain and valley scenery. Here in the beautiful cemetery lie the remains of Orlando Kellogg, who controlled the county politics for 20 years, representing his constituency in Con- gress through several terms, and being, above all, one of "Said to have been thus named by Gilliland, because Its banks when first risited were richly adorned with wild flowers. » Boquet," as it Is usually Kpelled, is doubtless a corruption o£ "Bouquet." Some authorities assert that the name was derived from the French '• baquet," signifying a trough. It is navigable tor only 2 miles from its mouth. The remains of an Tntrench- ment constructed by Gen. Burgoyne give it considerable historic importance • and here he made his memorable speech to his Indian allies, advlsin^ against indiscriminate slaughter. (Street.) The length of this stream Is about 35 m. 3 o > CO m H I H O S- Z ELIZABETHTOWN. 289 the noblest specimens of that " noblest work of God — an honest man." Elizabethtown is rich in imposing and picturesque scen- ery. It is surrounded by spurs of the great Adirondack Range* On the western borders of the town are situated two of the most conspicuous summits of the group. The southern of these is also one of the highest, presenting when viewed from the Champlain steamers an apparent altitude scarcely less than that of Dix's Peak, which is but little inferior to the towering dome of Tahawus itself. This mountain or culmination of mountains has borne no name until recently, when several individuals christened it " The Giant of the Valley," though this title properly belongs and was first applied to Cobble Hill. A perpendicular wall 700 ft. high lies on its northern declivity. The other one of the two above named stands about 5 m. N. W. of the village, in prominent view, and is the greatly admired Hurricane Peak. (Ind., No-do-ne-yo, " Hill of the Wind.") Its pyramid of naked rock rises with beautiful symmetry from its densely wooded base, interlacing with a mountain- ous ridge stretching far to the N., but sinking rapidly, and in some parts perpendicularly, into the pass to Keene. Its summit, reached by a fatiguing walk and scramble up its steep acclivity, affords a prospect unsurpassed by that of any other Adirondack pinnacle, unless we except Dix's Peak or Whiteface Mountain. Cobble Hill, a remarkable pile of rocks 1 m. S. W. of the village, presents to the beholder a precipice on its eastern side of at least 200 ft. and a dome-shaped summit, crowned by a rounded knob, forming altogether one of the most peculiar features in the landscape. In the opposite direction, its dark and jagged sides lining the approach to Elizabethtown from the lake, rises isolated Raven Hill, sharply defined against the eastern sky. Wood Hill, N. E , with sloping flanks rising from the very skirts of the village, looks proudly down upon the two charming valleys that unite at its feet. •Five distinct and parauel mountain ranees, though bearing different names, popularly designated "The Adlrondacks," pass through and are mostly comprised within the limits of Essex Co., a district that has received the appropriate appellation of the " Switzerland of America." 25 290 THE ADIRONDACKS. These, with other mountain peaks (including " McDon- ough," and "Saddle Back ") perhaps less imposing but not less distinguished for stately beauty, occurring in the grand panorama witnessed from the Windsor House, give to Elizabethtown a scenic fascination hardly exceeded by any village in the Adirondack Region. In the neighborhood are many delightful drives and rambles where the scenery is ever changing and full of native loveliness and mag- nificence. The Valley of the Bouquet, at the N. E. extremity of which the village stands and from which it received its early designation of "Pleasant Valley," extends S. W. about 8 m. and affords one of the most agreeable drives found in any locality. The winding of the river and the road varies the prospect with every few rods of progress till the eye and mind are almost bewildered by the sudden transitions from rock to dell ; from brawling brook to shady pool ; from precipitous mountain to gentle slope ; from the luxuriant drapery of the dark green woods to waving cornfields and smiling meadows ; from quiet and romantic homesteads to the unromantic din of the iron forge. At its head the river in stormy passion rushes from its mountain fastnesses down through a deep and narrow gorge, over an inclined plane of rough and broken rocks, in- to the peaceful valley below. The descent is considerably more than 100 ft., and this wild, dark chasm (styled "Split Rock ;" 8 m. from the village), whose tumbling waters frighten the very echoes with their tumultuous voices, is very attractive to summer residents and picnic parties. Refreshments are obtainable here at a neat little restaurant imbosomed in trees. In other directions there are additional attractions for all who love to look upon the varied aspects of untamed nature. Lying 2 m. S. E. of the village is Little Pond ; and 7 m. farther in the same direction is Spring or Nichols' Pond. Some 6% m. E. of S. of the village, Black or Lincoln Pond (1 x y 2 ), well stored with trout and pickerel, lies in sombre and tranquil repose. It offers equal pleasure to THE WINDSOR, ELIZABETHTOWN. BOUQUET RIVER. THE WINDSOR. ELIZABETHTOWN. 201 the angler and to boating parties, and is frequently the chosen theater of festive gatherings. (Hotel there.) Two m. S. E. of Lincoln P. is Long Pond, from which it is about 2 m. S. E. to Barton Pond — the latter in a di- rect course, 8 m. from Elizabethtown. In the S. W. part of the town, New Pond (1 x y 3 ), sur- rounded by mountain peaks and irreclaimable forests, is famous for the peculiar flavor of its trout and for the great number taken from its depths. It is a popular resort for citizens and summer visitors, who often encamp for a night or more upon its wild and solitary shores. It is about 10 m. from Elizabethtown, and two m. S. of Split Rock Falls. Bouquet River, flowing through the village, offers a straight, clean course of 3 m. to the oarsman, as well as fine opportunities to the fisherman. For the information of those commercially inclined we would state that the manufacture of iron is the leading pursuit in this town ; extensive beds of the ore abounding within its limits. In the S.-eastern part, a hill 200 ft. high, covering 40 acres, is supposed to be nearly a solid mass of iron, except a slight covering of drift. The Windsor, Orlando Kellogg proprietor, is located on a plateau 50 ft. above the Bouquet. This commodious and extensive establishment is not only the leading hotel of Elizabethtown but is one of the most popular in the entire region. It consists of four connected buildings three sto- ries in height, each surmounted with an observatory, and fronted with broad, double verandas, — forming in its en- tirety a most attractive group, and offering charming views in every direction. Since its repeated enlargement it is complete in all its appointments and supplied with every modern elegancy. It now more than ever offers a most desirable residence to invalids visiting this healthful cli- mate or tourists seeking magnificent scenery. It furnishes apartments en suite for families and rooms for single gen- tlemen appropriately equipped. It has thorough sanitary arrangements; running spring water (proved by analysis to to be of marvelous purity); hot and cold water baths ; reading and smoking rooms ; electric bells ; telegraph, ex- press and ticket office ; semi-daily mails. 292 THE ADIRONDACKS. Patrons of the Windsor are favored with an extraordi- nary variety of diversions. A well-selected orchestra gives daily concerts on the verandas or in the parlors, and pro- vides fine music for evening hops and amateur entertain- ments in the recreation hall. A billiard-room, a bowling- alley, a lawn-tennis court and croquet grounds invite the attention of those who find delight in such amusements. Riding, driving, rambling and boating contribute to the pleasure of many of the visitors. The table is supplied with fresh eggs, milk, cream, but- ter, and vegetables from the hotel-farm, and dainty trout from the private fish-pond. The attendance is excellent, and the cuisine all that can be desired. At no other hostel- ry are the wishes and comfort of guests (it receives nearly 300) more carefully regarded. Mr. Kellogg (a descendant of Hon. Orlando Kellogg) by his enterprise, and experience of 25 years, is deserving the large patronage given him by distinguished visitors. Guides, saddle-horses, carriages, buck-boards, stylish turnouts, experienced drivers, and every requisite for mountain-excursions or for visiting the beautiful environs are obtained here at reasonable prices. The Mansion House, a few rods east of the Windsor, has long enjoyed an excellent reputation and is well pat- ronized throughout the season. It has recently been en- larged, remodeled and furnished in the latest style. It now affords the best of fare ; airy and spacious rooms ; orches- tral music in the fine " Music Hall ; " every kind of amuse- ment; first-class conveyances ; telegraphic communication and superior entertainment (with its connecting cottages) to 150 guests. All stopping here will appreciate its home- like charm. Maplewood Inn (formerly " Valley House "), located at the foot of the plateau and near the center of the village, is also a very desirable summer-home. It is especially adapted to the wants of those seeking repose; and the oc- cupants of the well-furnished rooms of this pleasant stop- ping-place may while away the days or weeks of their va- cation in quiet enjoyment. ELIZABETHTOWN. POKE 0*MOONSHINE. Distances from Elizabethtown to Westport Station, Westport Steamboat Landing, Keene Center, Keene Valley Village, St. Hubert's Inn, (Head of Keene Valley) Lower Ausable Lake, Cascade Lake House, (Edmund Ponds) Mountain View House, North Elba, Lake Placid, Lower Saranac Lake, Saranac Inn, (Upper Saranac Lake) Paul Smith's, Saranac Club House, (" Bartlett's ") Keeseville, .... Ausable Chasm, Schroon Lake, Adirondack Lodge, (Clear Lake) 2 93 MILES. 7 8 12 i9 18 22 25 27 35 44 48 47 22 23 32 27^ A mail stage running from Schroon Lake and other southern towns to Keeseville (22 m.) passes through Eliza- bethtown on alternate days. In either direction the ride is delightful. Going to the N. the route lies through the wild gorge of "Poke O'Moonshine" (15 m.). The W. side of this pro- found and romantic ravine is the E. wall of the broad, level summit bearing that name, attaining an elevation of over 2,000 ft.* Its overhanging precipices, towering to a dizzy height above the road, form a most sublime spectacle. (See p. 286.) Traveling southward we pass through the charming scen- ery of New Russia; and farther on pause to enjoy the im- pressive picture presented by Dix's Peak, Giant of the Valley, Macomb's Mt, Bald Peak, and other lofty Titans uprearing their mighty forms in majestic prominence against the western sky. Where the road departs from Bouquet River, near Put- nam's Mills, 10 or 12 m. from Elizabethtown, access may •Street says that this singular mountain (Poke O'Moonshine) was so named from its dark and pokerlsh appearance. 294 THE ADIRONDACKS. be gained to Hunter's Pass by following the course of the stream N. W. a few miles. Pursuing our way we soon reach the large iron works at Dead Water, and anon the little hamlet of North Hudson, and " Root's Place " at Schroon River, from which Clear Pond and Elk Lake, and the great natural wonders near them are visited. Elizabethtown is easily accessible to tourists approach- ing by way of Lake Champlain. Cars and steamers arrive at Westport from the N. and S. several times a day, and are there met by the Windsor tally-ho coaches, with four and six horses, which twice daily during the summer and fall seasons convey passengers over a fine road, through the Raven Pass, to Elizabethtown (fare fi.oo), affording, with the stage connection, easy and pleasant transportation to Lake Placid, via. those interesting resorts, Keene Valley, the Cascade Lakes and Mountain View. Concord stages run daily from Elizabethtown to Keene Center and Keene Valley, (village) fare, $1.50; Cascadeville, ("Edmund Ponds,") $2.00 ; Mountain View House, $2.50; (connects with stages to Adirondack Lodge at Torrance Corners, $2.50;) to Lake Placid, $3.00 ; where cars are taken for Saranac Lake Village, and stage thence for Lower Saranac Lake. (See p. 250). This is undoubtedly the shortest and most picturesque avenue from Lake Champlain to the Saranac Lakes. In few journeys of similar length do we meet with so many noble pictures of mountain scenery. The approach, par- ticularly, to North Elba — across Keene Valley and through the "Edmund Ponds Pass" — is a masterpiece of beauty and grandeur. At every turn until we reach the " Plains of Abraham," (North Elba) fresh surprises are presented to the admiring eye that linger in the memory long after the various scenes have faded from view. For a long distance between Elizabethtown and Keene Valley, the road lies almost in the shadow of the bold mountain-preci- pice known as Little Pitch Off Mt., a spur of Mt. Hurri- cane, and the high ground not far beyond on the route, perhaps best reveals the matchless charms of the Keene district and the majestic presence of Mt. Whiteface, "the lonely chief of the northern peaks." I/) Z < Z o z ? U F- < s > UJ (/) z < * o > 5 m < 3 < KEENE VALLEY. 295 Within the town of Keene the Adirondack Range reaches its loftiest culminations, and Keene Valley is one of the most enchanting of all the nooks in this region of wildness and beauty.* No place commands more glorious panoramic views. The entire horizon is grandly serrated with lofty pinnacles. It is hemmed in and overlooked by Camel's Hump, ("Noon Mark"f), Haystack, Giant of the Valley, Basin, Hurricane, Colvin, The Gothics, Wolf's Jaws, Sad- dle Back, Nipple Top, Slide, Sentinel. Porter, Hopkins', Baxter's, ("Balcony,") Bald, and Dix's Peaks ; and, with his mighty head uplifted above the dark shoulders of his subordinates, Tahawus, "The Cleaver of the Clouds," the monarch of these almost countless peaks, this veritable "Legion of Five Hundred." J So close together are some of these pyramidal towers, that the valley which they overshadow, is in certain places scarcely of sufficient width to accommodate both the road and the river (Ausable). The narrow district thus encompassed, about 8 m. in length, possesses, with its environs, a richer variety of natural beauties in the way of lake, mountain, chasm and cascade, than any other section of equal extent within the boundaries of these "Northern Wilds." A full descrip- tion of the delightful rambles and the superlative attrac- tions belonging to the neighborhood would require more space than the size of our volume will allow. We can but briefly allude to its most important features. Clifford Falls, upon an affluent of the Ausable, 2 m. N. W. of Keene Center, are reached by wagon-road, a branch of the North Elba route. Their height is about 60 ft. and the wild chasm into which they pour, is itself one of the most attractive objects of this locality. From the bridge spanning the gorge we have a magnificent view of these falls. Sherburne Falls, upon the Ausable, are x /i m. S. of Keene Center near the main road. Their greatest height is about 50 ft., and they present a rich array of charming scenery. 'Keene Valley was formerly called "Keene Flats." t Camel's Hump Is commonly termed "The Dial," or "Noon Mark," be- cause the sun stands directly over Its crest at 12 o"clock. t Tahawus Is the Indian word lor Mt. Marcy, signifying, "He splits (he Sky." "Grand name for the soaring eagle of the stately Adlrondacks." 296 THE ADIRONDACKS. Haine's, or more correctly, Hull's Falls, also upon the Ausable, near the highway, r Jfc m. S. of Sherburne Falls, are thus described by the spicy and brilliant pen of a lady correspondent of the Brooklyn Union : — * "After a drive of 3 m. along the ever-pleasant Ausable, after fording the rushing river to their unspeakable conster- nation and delight, after this and many more little adven- tures had been passed or forgotten, we came to Hull's Falls. "Now, what I particularly admire in the Adirondack Region is this : — the people never brag. Reason, — they have plenty to brag about ; consequently they never do it. In other places you hear unlimited eloquence lavished upon a lake (now I'm thinking of Saratoga; but don't mention it), and you take a long drive to see a miserable, stupid, low-banked little affair, no more to be compared to the Saranacs or Placid than I am to Hercules, or any other man. Or you are carried through perspiring distances to see a waterfall, and you behold a wretched little stream leaking over a few rocks in a fit of placid despair. Here, on the contrary, they mention incidentally, when you tell them on what road you propose to drive, 'Wal, there's some falls along there, some folks think rather handsome ; p'raps you'd like to look at 'em as you go by.' You deign to cast a casual glance at the river occasionally on the strength of this mild suggestion, and you are astonished with a vision of a second Trenton. Hull's Falls are not so very high — not more than 30 or 40 ft. of sheer pitch, I should think, and then 10 or 20 more of roaring broken torrents over enormous rocks — but they are very grand indeed. There are the green wooded banks of the stream above the old log bridge, and the noisy rapids tearing along, and just below the bridge down go these fearful masses of rock, and roaring, frantic, foaming water, and below them again the straight grey mountain walls towering up against the blue sky. They are like the great fall at Trenton — not quite so wide, and the amber color of the water not quite so deep, but with a more savage wildness of expression, a greater *TUs appeared in the fourth edition of this work, issued In 18T6, and be- fore we had visited Keene Valley. But after viewing this cascade, we have no better description of It to offer. KEENE VALLEY. ORSON S. PHELPS. 297 ruggedness of rock and ferocity of water well suited to their wild surroundings." Phelps' Falls, so named for the distinguished guide, Orson S. Phelps, of whom we shall have more to say, are situated upon a little stream near its entrance into the Au- sable, a short distance N. of Keene Valley (village) The old hunter's habitation stands within a few rods of the falls, which have a descent of ioo ft. Here, too, much that is lovely and romantic fills the scene. Ascending, with slight effort, Prospect Hill, rising from this place, we are rewarded by the grandest prospect oi mountain scenery presented from any easily ascended elevation in Keene Valley. Many of the great peaks of the region are in full view, the mighty Tahawus being the chief attraction among his gigantic neighbors. Village, valley, and river, interspersed with emerald fields graced with clusters of luxuriant trees, gleaming cottages, and graceful foot- bridges, add so many charms to the picture. Three or four miles from the mouth of John's Brook (which also empties into the Ausable) are Big Falls ; and 3 or 4 miles still further up that trout-haunted stream are Bushnell's Falls. Both are perfectly sequestered and fas- cinating. They are accessible only by pathway. About 40 r. W. of the road leading to the Ausable Lakes, and near St. Hubert's Cottage, are Russell Falls. Here the Ausable shoots with tremendous velocity through a winding granite pass yi of a mile in extent, whose massive walls tower upward perhaps 200 ft. above the thundering torrent. Within this distance the river falls about 150 ft. but makes no perpendicular leap of over 25 ft. At one place, about midway of the gorge, it descends some 50 fr. within 6 or 8 r. forming a most beautiful circular cascade. So narrow is this chasm, that it is very hazardous if not impracticable for one to pass through it when the stream is high. Beaver Meadow Falls, 1 % or 2 m. further up the Ausa- ble, strikingly resemble Russell Falls, but are on a more extended scale. Good paths lead to them from the road, which passes within 50 to 80 r. of the place. The river 298 THE ADIRONDACKS. falls 378 ft. between Lower Ausable Lake and St. Hubert's Cottage, which includes the two cascades just named. One-half m. E. of the Ausable Lake road, and within 80 rods of "Smith Beede's old place," hidden among the cliffs and forests, on the S. W. flank of Giant of the Valley, an- other cascade will be found, still more remarkable and impressive, namely, Beede's or Roaring Brook Falls. Let us quote again in reference to this marvel. "Leaving Hull's Falls behind, we passed through leafy woods along the river, here in a gentler mood.* Lovely openings in the soft, green foliage showed us sweet, serene glimpses of nar- row intervale dotted with feathery elms and glowing maples revealing little vistas of sunlit meadow-beauty fit for an English park, reminding us of Tennyson's landscape, where -'Grey twilight poured, On dewy pastures, dewy trees, Softer than sleep — all things in order stored, A haunt of ancient Peace.' "At last, after a walk about twice as long as we ex- pected, we came upon the falls — Roaring Brook Falls, I believe they are called — and all perils of flood and field were at once forgotten. The scenery was like Bash-bish, but much finer, and at the head of the gorge, right before it, towered an immense perpendicular granite wall, fully 300 ft. high, through a narrow cleft in which fell the water sheer from the top to the rocks at our feet, dashed into millions of sparkling drops long ere it touched the bottom. I cannot imagine that the Staubach can be any grander, and the fall at Bash-bish fades into insignificance before this wonderful leap. You can see the top and bottom of the fall for some distance down the stream, but a twist in the chasm prevents your seeing it in its whole extent unless you climb a pinnacle of rock just where the water strikes the earth again. Here you see the whole length of this glorious cascade from its first plunge over the brow of the precipice — so high above you that the trees which crown it look like shrubs — down to the gathering of the scattered ♦Ausable Elver, In tlie vicinity of the village of Keene Valley, Is a shal- low, fretful stream, hut holds many trout. KEENK VALLEY. ROARING BROOK FALLS. 299 drops below your feet, whence they dash from rock to rock, making miniature falls and cool, trembling pools for 200 ft. more of slow and gradual descent. Through a great extent of its course a groove 5 ft. in depth has been worn into the solid rock by the force of the water. "While we looked and admired and did homage, the boys, whom we had pressed into our service, having first inquired if we thought it would be very wicked to make a fishing rod on Sunday, caught us a string of trout — such speckled beauties,- — with which we went home rejoicing; and even the frightful fords were trampled through with satis- fied hearts, though bruised and aching feet, after such a feast of beauty as we had enjoyed that morning. The trout graced our tea-table, a welcome addition to its homely fare, for here is no pampering of dainty appetites, except with delicious cream and eggs and butter." — L. F. Wagons approach within 20 rods of Roaring Brook Falls. Chapel Pond {% x /^)> a source of Roaring Brook, lying 1 m. E. of these falls, in a narrow and profound ravine between Ausable and Bouquet Rivers, is reached by a good path, and also by road. This singular, cedar- fringed, and precipice-environed sheet (held in the embrace of Giant-of-the-Valley, Bald Peak, and Camel's Hump,) was named from a pioneer- hunter who formerly dwelt in this section. The scenery here is weird, massive, desolate; inspiring one with gloom, as well as admiration. Naked walls of rock rise to an unbroken height of from 200 to 600 ft. above the deep and dusky waters.* This lakelet is fed by two other little tarns, most worthy objects of the ex- plorer's attention. One of them (about 20 r. in diameter,) lies % m. N. E. and nestles in a little nook set in the point of a mountain — like a diamond in a mass of agate — and at an elevation of nearly 500 ft. above Chapel P. An ir- regular, precipitous wall, like solid masonry, forms its savage and romantic surrounding. The other pond {]/(, x yi) is 200 fc. higher still, lying almost perpendicular over Chapel P., and is reached by a winding trail of ^£ m. This lonely basin is on the side of the Giant, and is called the " Giant's Washbowl." Its borders are less abrupt and interesting, * Whltensh are here tound In abundance. 300 THE ADIRONDACKS. but nevertheless, with its terraced, rock-bound shores, it is wildly attractive. It is said that a pebble may be tossed from the margin of the Washbowl into Chapel Pond. One and a half miles S. E. of Chapel P. is Round or Bullet Pond (}4 x %), serving as a fountain-head of Bouquet R. In the vicinity are the Twin Ponds. Not far from Roaring Brook Falls, S. W., (perhaps j£ or 24 m.) and within a few rods of the Ausable Lake road, are two other interesting objects for contemplation, viz : Gill Brook Flume, and the exquisite cascade, Artist's Falls. From them leads a blind and rugged trail S. to still another natural wonder, yet to be examined, namely, the "Hunter's Pass." Other scenes of equal beauty are revealed to those who penetrate more deeply into these wooded solitudes. It has been beautifully expressed that " Nature cunningly hides the gems of her landscape a little away from the noisy and dusty paths, and imposes the condition of leisure, calmness of mind, and reverent seeking, before they shall be en- joyed." — [Thomas Starr King.] The Village of Keene Valley is on the W. side of Ausable River, and 3 m. from the head of this famous vale. It has one or two churches, a good school, a public hall, and several stores. It has become a very popular and fashionable resort. A large number of city people of wealth and refinement, charmed with the beauties of this locality, have erected elegant summer cottages in the Valley. Among them may be. named John Matthews, Dr. Smith, L. D. Ranney, Timothy Ranney, Wm. H. Dodge, Mr. Thomas, J. Gold- man, C. D. Wood, Dr. Alder; the two noted artists, A. H. Wynant, and R. M. Shurtleff, and Salvador De Mendonca, the Brazilian Minister to the United States. A large mound near the village, evidently artificial, in- dicates that a pre-historic race may have inhabited this section. Very desirable hotels and boarding-houses, affording agreeable quarters to sojourners here, add much to the KEENE VALLEY. 301 allurements of the locality. The most important of these we will enumerate: — The Estes House is i m. N. of the village on the E. side of the river and at the base of Prospect Hill. It has a pleasing situation in the midst of a smiling meadow bor- dered with thrifty trees — inviting groves not far away. The scenery witnessed at this house is varied, picturesque, lovely. Nearly all the mountains surveyed from the sum- mit of Prospect Hill are visible, and it is claimed that no other hotel in the Valley commands a perfect view of Marcy. Spacious rooms — some with fire-places, — pure spring-water; tennis, ball and croquet grounds; a good livery and free carriage ride to church on Sunday, are among the advantages offered. The connecting farm has much to do with the well supplied table. It is a quiet and desirable retreat, especially for families and children. It receives 50 guests. The Tahawus House standing in the southern part of the village has been in successful operation for a quarter of a century, and now more than ever merits the patronage of the health and pleasure-seeking community. With the recurrence of each season every convenience and improve- ment that experience could suggest, and the increasing number of guests seemed to require, have been adopted. Thus it happens that since the first edition of this book was issued, in 1872, the quaint, old building, by repeated changes and enlargement, has been transformed into a capacious and showy structure with the suitable furnishing belonging to a high class resort. We will not enumerate its various appliances, but will name, among its attractions, a spacious hall for dancing and entertainments, with a large stage, and also scenery. By ascending to the lofty observatory a wonderful panorama will be enjoyed. The productive farm under the same management is an im- portant adjunct to the place. Mountain-springs supply the house with pure water. Every opportunity is afforded for recreation. With its several cottages it has accommo- dations for about 200 guests. Camping outfits, but no liquors, are furnished on demand. A good livery affords perfect facilities for riding, and carriages meet trains or 302 THE ADIRONDACKS. steamers at Westport when due notice is given. The pro- prietor gives his personal attention to his patrons and is very popular with the traveling public. The Adirondack House (formerly " Blin's ") is located on an eminence rising a short distance W. of the village, on the road leading to the John's Brook valley. Few sites afford finer exhibitions of natural charms than that occupied by this commodious hotel. This establishment is a large three-story structure, with several wings attached, offering, with its 300 feet of verandas, agreeable shade and prom- enades. Since the construction of the main building in 1882, it has received extensive additions and has recently been remodeled with special reference to the requirements of summer visitors. Running spring-water will be found on every floor and the sanitary system is unexcelled. It is appropriately furnished, and is a model of neatness and comfort. It has acquired high reputation for its excellent table and able management. A fine vegetable garden gives bountiful variety to the bill of fare. Here, 250 guests will find hearty welcome and abundant cheer. Various diversions contribute to the enjoyment of the patrons. Carriages, saddle-horses, and camp equipments are furnish- ed to order; also conveyances to meet parties at Westport. There is a telegraph in the house. One of the first places opened for the entertainment of tourists in Keene Valley was that of Henry Washbond, situated on the main road about y 2 m. S. of the Tahawus. For many years the proprietor faithfully attended to the wants of his patrons, and finally increasing numbers in- duced him to erect a building better adapted to the neces- sities of the traveler, which was entitled " Maple Grcve Cottage." The old farm-house where many a good meal has been taken, we believe still remains. And now, a score of years afterward, the remembrance of Mrs. Washbond's excellent cookery sharpens the appetite of the writer. The location is very pleasing, and it is rendered emphatically so by the beautiful grove adjacent. The view from the piazza of the Cottage is one of the most charming that can be enjoyed. In the rear of the buildings, only a few rods distant, is 1 J B J> * ^ifc^t . 1M ■: V '■■•.- 1 ... ,( *- • '■' '■■■ /* I'-' >.' .. J £■:■ ■'■•■' l ' v ' '^Sk- ',■'"•': ; ?>• ■ • * jf J I .':."' l\ ; \ >i/'l W' y '4 .;■:■■ -, : 5|lsi|ss&:|^^^^^ I & -3 & ••A}|1 ^^#*»- ' '■-:. 4'" f : '4!v ,:-*,/' *-^_ ^w^sfi Km m» "" *Y' > *•* IP 1 * ' *" 1 '■ „ T|R 1 , < • j§|| ';.' ';; <*J|§K '^P|l||l§tflP ' *l^(0 .«t| - \ -J ■I ' v ' ■ 5 * ■;- ..•^v-' v :" : 'Hn . 3 , f ;'.,(, tf^i ' ■ \i -. ' • ' i : ' ■ :■■■:.■ . : ■ . . . / ■ ■ j-.".-; ..:.;;/■ v ■ ■• '- * ' "P ' ; : ■ - Mm? ' ' * ■ ',"• ■• '4ri';"'rVi . v** **''/ '^ ., < H H o u l/> f- a UJ CO I H •Si KEENE VALLEY. 303 " Washbond's Flume," a wild, secluded ravine through which rushes an impetuous mountain-stream, forming a scene of singular and romantic beauty. Flume Cottage is located near the mouth of this glen, and in appearance, reminds one of a Swiss chalet. It is an ideal summer resting-place, devoid of the bustle and ostentation that characterize the larger hotels, and offers superior attractions akin to home-life. Rooms, exceed- ingly neat, furnished with a nice regard to the wants of the tourist, and a well-spread table of wholesome food, offer all that comfort or any reasonable taste may require. The Cottage is a favorite resort of people of culture and of quiet-loving travelers, who are enthusiastic in its praise. It is strictly exclusive in its regulations. Strangers, unless a favorable knowledge of their standing has been acquired, will not be entertained. Infants and Hebrews will knock vainly for admission. The usual superb valley and moun- tain views, — equal to the best — are here enjoyed. It en- tertains about 40 guests and is recommended for a pro- longed stay. Want of space prevents our even alluding to other worthy boarding places in and near the village. (P. O., Keene Valley, N. Y.) Stages for Westport, the R. R. Station and Steamboat Landing at Lake Champlain, call at all of these houses. Fare, $2.50. Also for Lower Ausable Lake. Fare for round trip, $1.25. Likewise for Ausable Forks. Fare, about $2.00. (See p. 276.) St. Hubert's Cottage is on the main road 2^ m. S. of the village. This pleasant summer retreat has been known to the traveling public for many years. The prop- erty was originally owned by Phineas Beede and after his death it was called "The Widow Beede's Place." Recently it has received its present name which seems to be a favor- ite appellation of the owners, who are also proprietors of St. Hubert's Inn. The "Cottage" may be considered a remote annex of the principal establishment. It has lately been enlarged and fitted up with modern improvements. The outlook from the grounds is thoroughly delightful. (P. O., Beede, N. Y.) 304 THE ADIRONDACKS. St. Hubert's Inn, a large and imposing edifice, rears its stately proportions on "Keene Heights," amountain-.locked plateau, situated at the head of the Valley (250 feet above its lowest point) on the road to the Ausable Lakes, and ^ m. S. of St. Hubert's Cottage. It occupies the site of the "Beede House" destroyed by fire in 1890, whose owner, Smith Beede the famous woodsman and mountain-explorer, passed away in the same year. The scenery surrounding is wild and majestic. From the observatory of the build- ing or from the adjoining heights, especially from "Windy- brow," a mountain-picture may be enjoyed, sublime and impressive beyond expression ; the grand masses of the Adirondacks stretching out distinctly visible for a distance of more than 30 m. It is an enchanting location in this most enchanting valley, and presents irresistible fascina- tions to the invalid, sportsman or tourist. The Inn is flanked with broad verandas, and is admirably arranged, having complete and luxurious appointments for 300 guests. The apartments are capacious, and well ventilated ; lighted' with gas and heated by steam, when heat is needed. There are open fire-places in the principal hall, in the office, parlor, ladies' reading-room, dining-room and in several of the sleeping- rooms. It has electric bells, reception, smoking, reading and bath-rooms. There are billiards and bowling within, and croquet and tennis without on the fine pleasure grounds. The cuisine and attendance are unsurpassed. Not to name the various delicacies that the large markets afford, the table is furnished with the choicest dairy and vegetable supplies from the hotel farm. It has approved sanitary conditions and an abundance of pure water flowing from mountain-springs. Its group of cosy and well shaded cottages offers additional attractions to the tourist. Telegraph, telephone and post-office (Beede, N. Y.) in the house. As a whole it is perfectly adapted to the comfort and convenience of its guests and is filled each season with the best patronage of the large cities. Great enterprise characterizes the management, one of the proprietors being Orlando Beede the son of Smith Beede, and no expense has been spared to place St. Hubert's Inn in the front rank among the grandest hotels of the Adirondacks. ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN RESERVE. 305 St. Hubert's Inn forms desirable headquarters for those who desire to explore the neighboring mountain scenery. Well denned trails radiate thence to the summits of Hop- kins' Peak (4^ m); Giant of the Valley (4 rri.); Mt. Colvin (5 m); Noon Mark (2 m), and other pinnacles. It is affirmed there is no resort in the region that affords an equal number of delectable rambles. Saddle-horses and carriages are furnished on call, enabling one to enjoy the different trips that may be taken in the vicinity. Of these, the excursion to the Ausable Lakes; the one through Keene Valley; and also to Elizabethtown, over excellent roads, are especially commended. The ride through the Valley is a marvel of delight. Passing northward, the road, for a large portion of the way, skirts the western bank of the ever romantic Ausable, affording impressive views of the encircling mountains and charming surveys of rich bottom-land, sprinkled with clumps of greenery, modest farm-houses, and picturesque cottages. Stages leave the door semi-daily for Westport (fare, $2.50), there connecting with cars and steamers; and for Lower Ausable Lakes; fare, 50 cts.; round trip, 75 cts. Closely adjoining the property of the hotel is the ter- ritory of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, the rustic lodge and gateway belonging to the latter being only a few rods beyond the Inn. A little farther towards the lakes, placed in chosen spots and nestling in a wealth of fresh green foliage, are several summer-houses owned and occupied by the members of the Reserve; and still farther S. (3^ m. from the Inn) is Lower Ausable Lake. A wagon-road leads from St. Hubert's Inn to Port Henry (Lake Champlain), 20^ m.; via Chapel Pond (2 m ), Euba Mills (7 m), Mineville and Moriah ; passing through the grand defile of Chapel Pond, (lvirig between Noon Mark and the Giant), and other wild and pictur- esque scenery. THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN RESERVE is a peerless mountain-park, embracing about 26,000 acres of land and over 40 square miles of territory. It extends from Keene Valley to the Bouquet in the E., and stretches 306 THE ADIRONDACK^. N. W. about 10 m. — comprising a large portion of what is known as the "Mt.Marcy Region." Within its precincts are some of the most stately towers of the Adirondack Chain, including half of Tahawus, — the most elevated sum- mit in the State, with its altitude of 5,344 ft. — Haystack, Basin, the Gothics, Colvin, Nipple Top and Dix's Peak. The two Ausable Lakes, with their wealth of picturesque attractions, are also within its boundaries. The association owning the Reserve, is an incorporated company composed of liberal and public spirited gentle- men, mostly residing in Boston, New York and Philadel- phia, who grasped the opportunity to -protect this splendid reach of virgin forest, whose immediate destruction was threatened by the relentless lumberman. The rules of the association may be regarded, at first thought, as unnecessarily stringent ; but really they are not too much so ; and they command the strictest observ- ance of their own members as well as of those who have no pecuniary interest in the property. The company de- siring to preserve the Ausable Lakes, streams, and adjacent forest in their natural beauty, to restock the waters with fish, to protect the game, and to render places of in- terest more accessible by roads and trails, have made in substance the following regulations, which visitors must observe: — Any injury to green timber is absolutely forbidden. No one but authorized guides will be allowed to make fires. Smokers must be cautious. None will be allowed to camp on the property unless accompanied by an authorized guide who has the use of a specified camp. All must register at the boat-house cottage on the Lower Lake. There, refreshments and commodious boats may be ob- tained. Rent of boat first hour, 35 cents; subsequent hours, 20 cents; per day, $1.00. On Upper Lake, $1.00 for any part of a day. Each person must pay 25 cents for every night spent in camp ; for over two weeks, $1.25 per week. On Sunday nothing will be sold (liquor never is) and boats will not be rented. These " authorized guides," who are members of the " Keene Valley Association," have also boats of their own INDIAN FACE. APPROACH TO LOWER AUSABLE LAKE. LOWER AUSABLE LAKE. 307 on both lakes. Camping privileges are secured through them only. Hunting and fishing will not be allowed except by special permit. At great expense a wagon-road has been constructed to the Lower Lake. Toll charged for saddle-horse, 30 cents; for one horse and wagon, 50 cents; for two horses and wagon, %\. 00; for four horses and wagon, $1.75; for six horses and wagon, $2.25. Free passage for pedestrians. Those violating any of these regulations will be treated as trespassers. The traveler should not depart from Keene Valley with- out visiting the Ausable Lakes, those twin jewels of the Wilderness, and headwaters of the E. Branch of Ausable River.* They are placed in the midst of scenery of re- markable wildness and sublimity. Gigantic mountain- sentinels guard them on every hand, gazing solemnly upon their own sombre shadows in the still waters beneath. They are reached from the village by an admirable road ascending the interesting defile threaded by the Ausable, and following the winding course of that impetuous stream. The drive is pleasurable indeed, — offering, as we pass along, rich displays of sparkling water-falls and woodland beauty. As we near the Lower Lake, the approach in- creases in interest till the climax is reached in the sublime spectacle spread suddenly before us. The Lower Ausable (i}4 x j{) is purely Alpine in its characteristics. It is enwalled by the gloomy precipices of Mount Colvin on the E. and the steep acclivities of Sawteeth Mt.f on the W., both towering to the clouds from the very water's edge, and rendering it difficult, if not im- possible for the pedestrian to traverse its dangerous shores. At various places, enormous masses of earth and stone, swept in the irresistible avalanche at different times down the savage declivities, and unsightly trees, wrenched by the violent breath of the hurricane from their precarious foot- * Indian name of the Ausable Lakes, Ga-wis-aa-ga-o, " Two Goblets, side by side ;" of Lower Ausable-Lake, i' The. Dark Cup ;" ol the Uppei- Ausable, "Lake of the White Water Lily." (Street). tSawteeth Mt. 1" Ressagonla ") was ao named from Its serrated ridge, composed of triple peaks. 308 THE ADIRONDACKS. ing, have found uncertain lodgment along the banks of this sable basin, — forming a perfect chaos of fallen trunks, interwoven boughs, roots and rocks. Murmuring water- falls, born on .the dizzy heights, find their way in silver- threads, and with glittering leaps into the deep, black waters of the lake. On the eastern bank, near the foot of this sheet, upon • the verge of a projecting cliff of red stone — the crowning feature of a majestic wall of vertical and columned rock — is the wonderful phenomenon styled " Indian Face," guard- ing in silent grandeur, the '' Dark Cup," gleaming like pol- ished ebony at its base, half a thousand feet below, while it rivals in colossal proportions and regularity of features that marvel of Franconia, "The Old Man of the Mountain." " How sublime, that Nature should thus have carved the eternal rock inio a likeness which remains as an imperish- able memento of a powerful race driven almost from the earth by one more powerful." — [Street.] On the opposite side, surmounting a ragged ledge, rising about 800 feet above the water, is a singular formation, called the " Devil's Pulpit." There is an " Ice House " on this lake formed by an impending crag wherein ice is found throughout the year ; but it is too dark and damp to merit a visit. Rainbow Falls are nearly J^ m. N. W. of the outlet, and are accessible from the boat-house by a route leading first through a dense thicket, and then up the bed of the stream. This remarkable cascade is on Rainbow Brook, which plunges down the abrupt declivity of one of the Gothics, having finally a sheer vertical descent of 125 to 140 fr. and presenting, with the richness of the foliage drooping over the verge, and the absolute wildness of the environment, a picture of indescribable beauty.* Below the falls the limpid waters fret and whirl, forcing a passage, among the huge boulders that nearly block their course, through a narrow, cliff-walled aisle to the tumultu- ous river (Ausable) not far away. Ribbon Falls, i©n a branch of this rivulet, a short dis- tance above Rainbow Falls, hang gracefully upon the face * Rainbow or Cascade Brook falls 3,000 ft. wltliln 2 m. o > a UPPER AUSABLE LAKE. 309 of the same precipice, and seem when viewed from afar, a braid of "living silver," suspended in mid-air. These lovely scenes command the admiration of the artist and the worshiper of Nature in her secluded temples. Resuming the journey, and making a portage of i m. through a beautiful forest of pines and birches — frequently enjoying glimpses of the leaf-embowered, and trembling river, with towering masses revealed in the background — we reach the Upper Ausable, (2 x %) a lake extolled by every visitor, and in the estimation of many, the loveliest water of the Adirondacks. The contrast between this and the Lower Ausable is marked enough ; that, in its confined and stupendous scenery, is awe-inspiring; this, with its softly curving shores, fairy, lily-wreathed nooks, secluded leaf-margined bays; and the graceful outlines of its more distant and gently descending mountains, is charming in the highest degree. In the N. and W. the Gothics, — with their turreted sum- mits and furrowed sides, — Basin, Skylight, Saddle-back, Ressagonia, Bartlett and other noble forms are lifted into lofty prominence; and loftier still, but more remote, yet most conspicuous, is unveiled the clear-cut, symmetrical cone of the famed Haystack. Barring the S. and E , and apparently unending, is the Boreas Range, whose northern extremity, — a majestic dome, — has received the name of Colvin in honor of the eminent explorer. (See p. 307). The forest, on the encircling slopes, remains undisturbed in all its pristine loveliness. Upon the banks of the lake, at chosen spots, many rustic camps have been built by the authorized guides, which increase the attractiveness of the scene. At these sylvan retreats (comfortably equipped) visitors are provided with excellent fare (as these wildrwood conductors are experts in cookery) and beds of fragrant and healthful evergreen sprigs. 310 THE ADIRONDACKS. From Upper Ausable Lake there are two routes to the summit of Mt. Marcy : — 1. We pass, with a boat (S.) up the main inlet to Marcy Brook, (entering at r.) and up that stream as far as it is navigable. Thence we follow a trail along the W. flank of Bartlett Mt. and finally through Panther Gorge (or via Lake Tear). Thence to the top, the grade is comparatively easy. The walking distance is probably 6 miles. 2. We take the trail (formerly followed) leading from the foot of the lake over Bartlett Mt., and passing by Lake Tear-of-the Clouds, the highest pond-source of Hudson River, (4,322 ft.) lying within }( m. of the summit. Thus, this sky-born fountain was christened by Verplanck Colvin; and few lakelets bear a more appropriate name. It is only 25 or 30 rods in length and in itself is unimpor- tant; but its altitude and connection with the noble stream it swells, give it considerable celebrity.* " A few summers since I stood for the first time on the cool, mossy shore of the mountain-springlet, Lake-Tear-of- the-Clouds. Almost hidden between the gigantic moun- tain-domes of Marcy, Skylight and Gray Peak, this lovely pool lifted on its granite pedestal toward heaven, the loftiest water- mirror of the stars ; beseeching, not in vain, from each low-drifting cloud some tribute for the sources of the Hudson; fresh, new, unvisited, save by wild beasts that drank; it was a gem more pure and more delightful to the eye than the most precious jewel." — (Colvin.) A bark cabin on this route, within }£ m. of Lake Tear, and yi m. of the summit, affords one comfortable shelter for a night, if over-weary or overtaken by a storm. The distance from the Upper Ausable to the crown of Tahawus is 5 m., and though the ascent is very wearisome, especially via Bartlett, it is not considered dangerous ; but the services of a guide should not be dispensed with. •Lake Tear was first called "Lake Perkins," and afterward, "Summit Water." to • .■■■'• B > - r ^ ! c (/> > CO r- m ft I iW%k r- > * - / Kjh * jl p^ # Hi ASCENT OF MT. TAHAWUS. 31 1 It is sometimes ascended from Keene Valley, the nearest village to this mountain, by a path that follows the course of John's Brock S. W , passes between Slide and Saddle- back Mts., and unites with the "Panther Gorge Trail," which lies up the E. side. The distance by this toilsome route is about n m., and it passes within sight of Big Falls and Bushnell's Falls, heretofore named, and a most wonderful cascade that plunges down the side of Marcy 1,000 ft. into the dark and impenetrable caverns of Panther Gorge; and when the water has sufficient volume, it forms a spectacle thrilling and magnificent beyond description. This tre- mendous ravine, is formed by the precipitous sides of Marcy and Haystack. Its walls, in some places, tower aloft perpendicularly to an altitude of ten or twelve hun- dred feet. Its gloomy depths are completely veiled from the sun except during a small portion of the day. It was once the home of the cougar, then roaming unmolested through these wilds. The view from the crest of Tahawus, though one of the grandest that can reward the enterprising climber, is not considered equal to that afforded by the " Mountain of the White Star" (Whiteface). Here, the panorama un- folded, terrible in its sublimity, demands our homage ; there the picture displayed is perhaps unsurpassed in America in its varied, softened, and harmonious splendor. (See p. 274). In this lofty and lonely dominion, at the foot of Mt. Redfield, about i m. S. of Lake Tear, there sparkles an- other fountain that feeds 1 the Hudson, viz: Moss Lake. The cold and crystalline waters of this mountain-goblet are set in a frame of rich and abundant moss. In altitude it is only inferior to its sister-spring, being 4.312 ft. higher than the sea. One mile above Upper Ausable L.,' the old bridle-path ' leading from Elk Lake over Boreas Mt., to' Marcy, crosses the inlet 5^ m. from Elk Lake House. Boreas Pond (1 % x ^),.S. W. of the Upper. Ausable, is reached by boating up the inlet (really Ausable River) 3 m., and following a trail thence 2 m. When passing up this narrow, picturesque stream, the voyager should cast a back- 312 THE ADIRONDACKS. ward look at the noble form of Haystack; the embodiment of grace and symmetry. Boreas P., a source of the Hud- son by Boreas River, is in reality three distinct bodies of water connected by short narrows. It is an uninteresting sheet with marshy shores, but it commands to the N. a noble mountain prospect. At times of freshets the waters of the Boreas and Ausable nearly commingle. This is a fine sporting territory. The remains of a long abandoned beaver settlement are still observable in the vicinity. The old trapper, Orson S. Phelps, thus writes to the Essex County Republican in refer- ence to this subject : — " On a beaver meadow some 5 m. W. of the Upper Lake, and 3 m. N. W. of Boreas Pond, on the outlet near White Lily Pond, I found a beaver town or city, or about one acre of ground that was once water, I suppose, that is covered about as thick as it can be with beaver huts or houses and leave them room to go between. They were not particular about their streets being straight or square ; but their houses are uniform. It is all grown over now with a beautiful grove of tamarack. I did not see a mark of the axe within a mile of it until I made it. The houses are about the size of a two-barrel caldron kettle. I pre- sume about the time Champlain was making his first trip into the Lake there were lively times with beaver in that pond, as it probably was a pond at that time." This pioneer-guide and engineer of most of the routes lh.it scale the heights of the Keene Pyramids, whose numer- ous explorations have gained for him the sobriquet of "Old Mountain Phelps," in a style characteristic of him, thus replies to some of our inquiries : — "I guess I am about as well known as I ought to be ; there is nothing historic about me except making a road to the top of Mt. Marcy from the south and east. In 1850 I climbed Old Tahawus from the E. and descended it to the S., and from all I can learn I was the first man that traveled either of those routes. Since then I have traveled them many times and seen many wonderful sights, but I am now growing old and about done climbing Mt. Marcy. Smith Beede, Harvey KEENE VALLEY DISTANCE TABLES. 313 Holt and myself, all of Keene Flats, are old woodsmen, hunters and fishermen."* Mr. Phelps furnished us much valuable information rela- tive to the Keene district ; also a map of that then unsur- veyed section, drawn by himself, which displays much artistic merit. He is truly one of "Nature's Noblemen;" an ideal son of the forest. Distances from the Village of Keene Valley to MILES. Keene Center, 5 East Hill (Willey House), 1% Upper Jay, 5 Wilmington, (via Upper Jay), . 15 Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Upper Jay), . • *itf Wilmington Notch, (via Wilmington,) 20% Ausable Forks, 19 Rogers' Station ("Point of Rocks ')■ ■ ' • 22 Plattsburg, . 42 Keeseville, 3 1 Ausable Chasm, 33 Port Kent, 36 Elizabethtown, 12^ Westport, (Steamboat Landing,) 20% St. Hubert's Cottage, 2}£ St. Hubert's Inn, 3 Bouquet River, 9 Euba Mills, 10 Port Henry, 21 to 23 Schroon Lake, 3 2 Chapel or Echo Pond, A l A Round or Bullet Pond, 6 Lower Ausable Lake, 6H Upper Ausable Lake, 9 Boreas Pond, 16 Elk Lake, (via Hunters' Pass), 12 Elk Lake, (via Ausable Lakes), • • 16^ •Mr. Phelps, at tills date, has nearly reached his eightieth year. Smith Beede and Harvey Holt are numbered with the dead. To gain a perfect knowledge of this remarkable character, one should read the delightful lit- tle volume, titled "In the Wilderness." by Charles Dudley Warner. 3'4 THE ADIRONDACKS. MILES. Clear Pond, (via Hunters' Pass), . 14 Clear Pond, (via Ausable Lakes), . . i8j£ Summit of Prospect Hill, 1 J^ " " Baxter's Peak, (" The Balcony "), . 3 " Hopkins' Peak, ... 3 " " Hurricane Peak, . . .7 " " Camel's Hump, ... 5 " Giant of the Valley, ... 6 " " Dix's Peak, (via Hunters' Pass), . t% " " Mt. Marcy, (via Ausable Lakes), . 14 " " Mt. Marcy, (via John's Brook), . 11 Stiles Falls, (beautiful) (50 ft.) N. E * . 7^ Clifford Falls, ..... 7 Sherburne Falls, ... ■ aVz Hull's Falls, (" Hull's Place "), . 3 Upper Hull's Falls, (N. W ) (Trap Dyke), . 3^ White's Falls, . . . . 1 y s Phelps' Falls, . . . . 1% Corinne Falls, (30 ft.) (S ) ... iji Mossy Falls, . . . .2 Russell's or Walker's Falls, . 2j£ Beaver Meadow Falls, . . .41^ Roaring Brook Falls, .... 3 Artists' Falls and Gill Brook Flume, . 3^ Fairy Ladder Falls, (150 ft.) (near Hunters' Pass), 5 Minnehaha Falls, (beautiful) (6b ft.) (S. W.)f . 5^ Rainbow Falls, .... 63^ Big Falls, ...... 4 Bushnell's Falls, . 7^ Panther Gorge Falls, ... 10 Washbond's Flume, .... ^ Hunters' Pass, ..... 6% Indian Pass, ... 25 Cascade Lake House, . . . . 1 r Ames' Mountain View House, . . 15 Adirondack Lodge, (Clear Lake) (via Cascade House) 20^ Adirondack Lodge, (via Mt. Porter trail) 10 or 12 John Brown's Grave, (North Elba) . . 18 * Stiles Falls are lyi m. N. E. o£ Keene Center. t Minnehaha Palls are 1 m. from Lower AusaWe Lake. KEENE VALLEY. MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. 315 Lake Placid, Bloomingdale, Lower Saranac Lake, Upper Saranac Lake, (Saranac Inn) Upper Saranac Lake, (" Bartlett's ") Lower St. Regis Lake, (Paul Smith's) MILES. 20 32 28 37 40 41 Grand Mountain Excursion. Round Trip from the Village of Keene Valley to St. Hubert's Inn, Lower Ausable Lake, Upper Ausable Lake, . Mt. Marcy (Summit), Lake Colden, Calamity Pond, Upper Iron Works, Indian Pass, Northern end of Indian Pass, Adirondack Lodge (Clear Lake), Lake Placid, Whiteface Mt. (Summit) Wilmington, Wilmington Notch, Mountain View House, Cascade Lake House, Keene Center, . Keene Valley Village, . In making this trip, the tourist should be accompanied by an experienced guide. To accomplish it without suffer- ing great fatigue he should spend the first night at St. Hu- bert's Inn, or Upper Ausable Lake ; the second, at the camp near Lake Tear, or at the one m Panther Gorge ; the third, at Lake Colden Camp ; the fourth, at Upper Iron Works ; the fifth, at the head of the Indian Pass,* where there is usually a bough shelter ; the sixth, at Adirondack miles. 3 1 / 3 , i 6}4 2 1 / i 9 5 14 S 19 2 21 s 26 5 31 1 6 32 38 9> 85, 6 1 / i 47 X A i 56 I 62% 5^ 8 i 673^ 753^ 4 6 79 3 /i 85?< S 9° 3/1 •The ascent of the Indian Pass Is exceedingly toilsome even for a hardy mountaineer. 3 l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. Lodge; the seventh, at Lake Placid ; the eighth at "Rustic Lodge," near the summit of Whiteface (p. 274); the ninth, at Wilmington ; the tenth, at Mountain View House ; the eleventh at Cascade Lake House, or Keene Centre. Of course the robust and ambitious pedestrian can per- form the journey in half the time named ; and it can be reduced still more by taking a carriage, wherever it is practicable. The tour may be varied by leaving out Upper Iron Works, and Indian Pass — diverging from the route at Lake Colden, and passing from that point to Avalanche Lake, tj4 m.; thence to Adirondack Lodge, 5 m. It may also be varied by omitting Lake Placid, Whiteface Moun- tain, Wilmington, and the Notch, and proceeding direct from Adirondack Lodge to Mountain View House, 5 % m. The original trail from Indian Pass to North Elba — still occasionally traveled — does not lead via. Clear Lake. It is advisable to follow the new route via. Adirondack Lodge.* Keene Center is a pleasant hamlet, located at the north- ern end of the Valley, in the midst of fine scenery. Several stores and churches, a telephone and a telegraph-office are among its advantages. (P. O., Keene, N. Y.) The Center House is a well furnished and capacious structure, and offers good conveniences to a large number. The Glenmore, recently constructed, also affords satis- factory, accommodations. From Keene Center to Elizabethtown the distance is 12m.; the route thither diverging at right angles from the Valley road about midway between Keene and Keene Valley Village. The Willey House stands almost in the shadow of Hur- ricane Peak on the elevated plateau called East Hill, 2 J^ m. E. of Keene Center. Situated at an altitude of 1,800 feet above the sea, it commands a magnificent view of the environing country. Not to name Keene Valley — spread- ing before us in all its loveliness — the graceful crest of Whiteface, the symmetrical form of Hurricane, the ponderous * By the old trail, It is 10>£ m. Irom Indian Pass to Mountain View House, via. "Blin's," 9 m. THE CASCADE LAKES. 317 dome of Marcy, rising in proud nobility amid the sky- aspiring summits of Haystack, Skylight, Ressagonia, Sad- dleback, Wolf's Jaws, Basin, the Gothics, the Giant, Colvin, Dix's Peak and Nipple Top, besides many minor peaks, are displayed to the enraptured gaze. The Willey House is a new, large and well-built structure with a piazza running the entire length of the front. Open fire-places increase the cheerfulness of the office, parlor and dining-room. The apartments are neat, spacious and tastefully furnished. The beds are of superior quality. An abundance of pure water is ever at hand. The table, in variety and excellence, is of high standard. Fine trout- fishing near the hotel insures frequent trout-dinners, which are a leading specialty. The wants of travelers are care- fully studied and anticipated, and patrons of the establish- ment are promptly provided with everything reasonable that will conduce to their comfort. Numerous opportuni- ties for diversion are afforded. For the various places of attraction in the neighborhood, the reader is advised to consult the Keene Valley distance-table, p. 313. A favorite excursion of pedestrians is to the summit of Mount Hurricane, only 4 m. distant by good trail. This hotel offers a quiet and delightful home to both tourist and invalid, and has our hearty recommendation. It ac- commodates 75 guests. (P. O. Keene, Essex Co., N. Y.) Stages run daily from Lake Placid and Westport, to Keene Center. From there private conveyances are taken for the Willey House. If notified in time, the hotel-carriage will meet travelers at Elizabethtown (12 m ), or Westport. The distance is lessened by the new road, which does not pass through Keene. The Warren Cottage (private) 1 m. E. of the Willey House, is the most elevated place of abode in the Adiron- dack Region, being nearly 2,400 feet above tide-water. Resuming the journey at Keene Center to the Saranac Lakes and intermediate points, we there have a choice of two routes: one, the old road, leading over a spur of Pitch Off Mountain (Chimney Hill), and occupying 6 m. of ascent and descent; the other, more recently constructed, passing through the extremely romantic defile between 318 THE ADIRONDACKS. Pitch Off* and Long Pond Mountains and uniting with the former a short distance E. of Ames' Mountain View House. Stages travel the new road, though the distance is 2 m. greater. (Keene to Ames' by old road, 10 m; by new road, 12 m.). Within this narrow and remarkable gorge, walled in by towering cliffs whose frowning heights (rising from 300 to 1,000 ft.) inspire the beholder with sentiments of profoundest awe and admiration, lie the " Edmund Ponds," worthy rivals, in impressive scenery, of the Ausable Lakes, and, like them, affluents of East Au- sable River. They were formerly embraced in one sheet, then known as " Long Pond;" but many years since (about i860) it was divided into two distinct parts by a tremend- ous avalanche that swept down the side of the southern peak.f They then received the name of " Edmund Ponds." The larger pond (7 ft. lower than the other) was once called, "Adirondack Lake ";\ but they are now generally styled "Upper" {% x %), and "Lower Cascade Lake" (i}{ x yi). A short and narrow stream connects them. The road, with but limited space afforded for its passage, for several miles picturesquely winds along the margin of these Swiss-like lakes, and around the base of Pitch Off Mountain, having been cut through the vast and desolate masses of debris that have fallen from this peak. Near these deep and shaded waters is a spot that will repay a prolonged inspection. A little brook leaps down the track of the avalanche nearly 800 ft., forming a succession of exquisite cascades,^ — a fairy exhibition of flashing silver, — and is finally lost to view amid the foliage by which it is concealed. In the bed of this stream innumerable minerals sparkle and glow in every direction. High up the preci- pice occur a series of caves, which are the deposits of various gems and minerals and in beauty and variety al- most rival the stories of eastern caverns. Here is found •An overhanging cliff, 300 to 500 ft. hlgu, on the N. flank of Pitch Off Mt., gives to It its singular name. t Long Pond Mt. This has lately been re-named, "Ausable Mt." X It seems a pity, since names are now being adopted permanently for a region opened to the world of travelers, that the largest and most romantic of all of "Tite Thousand Lakes " In the Great Forest could not bear the title of "Adirondack." Even this little loch has been robbed of that name." 5 These cascades gave these lakes their present name. CASCADE LAKE HOUSE. 319 calcareous spar of various colors, and crystals of epidote, coccoline and hornblende. The scientific explorer would enjoy in this locality a rich and delightful field. — [Watson.] On the highway, and partially between these ponds, nearly imprisoned within barriers of impendent crags of dizzy height, with the " blue above and the blue below," stands the Cascade Lake House, occupying a grand sit- uation, with an altitude of 2,039 ft. above the level of the sea. This mountain-hostel since the very date of its com- pletion has been held in high esteem, — this favorable regard being due to its excellent management. It has recently been trebled in capacity and is now an imposing edifice, possessing every modern appliance for comfort and elegance. Extensive and well-shaded verandas add much to the enjoyment of the guests. The office and main hall; the spacious parlor with its fine piano; and all the various apartments, in finish, equipment, cheerfulness and outlook, challenge the admiration of every visitor. Mas- sive and ornamental fire-places in the office and parlor; smoking and billiard rooms ; a bowling alley and lawn- tennis court, are among the attractions. Superior beds are a feature of the establishment. Pure running water is conducted through pipes to every floor from the rocky heights of the cascades. The cuisine is in charge of an ex- perienced chef from New York. The table and service are unexceptionable. The waitresses are neat and rosy-cheeked country maidens. Birds, trout and venison are rarely lacking in their season. Fresh eggs, milk, cream and veg- etables are brought daily from the neighboring farms. Various delicacies, obtainable only in the large cities, daily find their way to this remote resort by means of perfect stage and railroad facilities. Guests may rest assured that they will be treated here with the most considerate and courteous attention. The urbane and gracious hostess (Mrs. Ednah M. Weston) has the pleasure and convenience of her patrons ever at heart.* Thus the traveler is made to feel perfectly at home. This hostelry is considerably patronized by artists and devotees of nature, who delight •Mrs. Weston is the widow ol the late Hon. Warren V. Weston, the dis- tinguished business-man, who ably represented Essex Co. ;ior two terms In the State Legislature. Mr. Chas. Fury, one ol the most capable and popular men In the business, is manager. 320 THE ADIRONDACKS. in the wild sublimity of the surrounding scenery. To them it is a dreamy, restful haven where they are content to while away their entire vacation. It is stated that Pro- fessor Franklin W. Hooper, of the Brooklyn Institute, during a recent exploration of the Adirondack Region was greatly inpressed by the beauty and desirability of this location, and in one of his published reports he not only devotes a very considerable space to the description of this locality, but recommends the purchase of it for State preservation. This place also commands the attention of the angler. The lakes are not only nourished by mountain-streams, but by springs that rise from the bottoms. As their pure and frigid waters have been repeatedly replenished with fry, and are carefully protected, they contain an unfailing abundance of speckled-trout. The famous woodsman, Wm. B. Nye, (recently deceased) assured the writer, many years since, that in no other waters of the Great Forest did trout breed so rapidly as in the Edmund Ponds. This superb fish-preserve being mostly owned by the proprietress of the hotel, is held sacredly for the use of guests, who may there invariably enjoy most royal sport. Owing to the shape and situation of these lakes the waters are never disturbed by violent winds, and thus boating is rendered safe and delightful. While making a circuit of their expanse with a boat, the wild and rugged shores, the rock-girt bays and points, the numerous leafy retreats, and the mighty ramparts that flank the glen, all combine to form an ever-changing panorama replete with grandly beautiful effects. There is a telegraph -office and a post-office (Cascade- ville, N. Y.) in the hotel.* A well equipped livery, main- tained by the establishment, offers every opportunity for riding. How Reached. — Though stages arrive daily from Westport and Lake Placid, parties who prefer private con- veyances, will, if they request it, be met at Westport with easy-riding carriages. It will be seen that Cascade Lake House has become easily accessible, as it is only g m. to Lake Placid, near which is the terminus of the Saranac * Cascadevttle is a misnomer, as there Is no village here. This name ap- plies to a scattering settlement several miles In extent. CASCADE LAKES TO MOUNTAIN VIEW, ETC. 321 and Lake Placid R. R., enabling travelers to pass thence to the most distant points in America by rail. This will contribute greatly to its future success. The house entertains 150 guests. Here stage-passengers traveling in either direction usually dine, and are never disappointed with the bill of fare. Like Keene Valley and Elizabethtown, Cascade Lake House affords an admirable center from which numerous excursions may be made. From this location are visited Keene Valley, with its various atttactions, Wilmington Notch, Whiteface Mt., Lake Placid, Clear Lake, Mt. Marcy, the Indian Pass, and many minor points of interest. Distances from Cascade Lake House to Keene Center, .... Elizabethtown, Westport (Steamboat Landing), Keene Valley Village, St. Hubert's Inn, Lower Ausable Lake, Clifford Falls, .... Hull's Falls, East Hill (Willey House), Mountain View House, Clear Lake (Adirondack Lodge), Mt. Marcy (Summit), Indian Pass, .... John Brown's Grave (North Elba), . Ray Brook House, Lower Saranac Lake, Lake Placid {Railroad Station), Wilmington Notch, . . . Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Wilmington), Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Lake Placid), {See Keene Valley distance-table, p. 313). MILES. 6 18 26 n 14 7 8 &% 4 9% 17 155* 7 13 17 8^ 10 *3 3 A i7^ Emerging from amid the astonishing spectacles of the "Edmund Ponds Pass," the scene soon changes and again we enter the realm of stately loveliness, of savage sub- 322 THE ADIRONDACKS. limity.* Tahawus, Mclntyre, Colden, Wallface, Seward, Whiteface, Dix's Peak, Nipple Top, and many others of the kingly host, " grouped in grandeur and mellowed into beauty, rise in full royalty before us." Here on these "Plains of Abraham," as this high plateau is sometimes termed, in the midst of these Alpine solitudes was placed the isolated habitation of Robert G. Scott, and here in con- stant view of the colossal watch-towers that with one sweep of magnificence sublimely indent the horizon's circle, this venerable patriarch of the mountains had his dwelling- place for nearly 70 years. At this "smiling oasis in a wil- derness waste," Ames' Mountain View House, is an out- growth of the humble but famous abode of Scott, long since deceased, and is a resort most healthful and beautiful. It is commodious, home-like and of long-established popu- larity, especially with families. The rates are reasonable and many are induced to adopt this hotel for their summer sojourn. Telegraph-office in the house. It is only 4j^ m. (N. W.) to Lake Placid railroad-station. Capacity, 40. (P. O., Cascadeville, N. Y.) The ascent of a romantic elevation called "The Cobble," a few rods from the house, is a pleasant ramble. Looking southward from the summit we survey scenery of the bold- est and most majestic character, the distinguishing features of which are Mts. Colden and Mclntyre, and the jaws of the Indian Pass. Grand Excursion to Indian Pass, Mt. Marcy, &c. {Round Trip.) Mountain View House by road to Blin's 1 % m ; thence to Indian Pass, by trail, 9 m.; through Pass, 1 m.; Upper Iron Works, 5 m ; Calamity Pond, 5 m ; Lake Colden, 2 m ; summit of Mt. Marcy, 5m.; back to Lake Colden, 5 m.; thence to Avalanche Lake, \V 2 m ; Clear Lake (Adiron- dack Lodge), 5 m ; road via "Blin's" (4 m.) to Mountain View House, 5^ m. Total, 45^ m. In making this trip the pedestrian should stop over the first night at the head of the Indian Pass ; the second, at •Near the road en mute, are Mud P. (.v, x !■,') (left}, and Round P., <% x y.) (riglit); the former IJi m. and tUe latter 2 m. from Cascade Lake House. CLEAR LAKE. 323 Upper Iron Works ; the third, near the base of Mt. Marcy, or at the camp near Lake Tear ; the fourth, at "Lake Col- den Camp"; the fifth, at Adirondack Lodge. (See p. 324.) The trails (beginning at Blin's), are generally well- defin'ed. It is not prudent to undertake this journey with- out the attendance of an experienced guide. (See Keene Valley distance^tables, p. 313). To visit Clear Lake (5 r -£ m.)we diverge from the highway % m. W. of Mountain View House, and from the route to Indian Pass, etc , at "Blin's." This famous lochan is thus fitly described in Street's charming volume, "The Indian Pass." "Among the beautiful waters of the Wilderness this heart- shaped pond is one of the most beautiful. Sparkling like a gem in its depth of woods, it rejoices in its loveliness, only for the most part in behalf of the fawns and dryads. Solitude reigns generally supreme, broken alone by the fish-hawk, as he dips his dappled wing for his prey, or the deer, as it steals to the brink to taste the molten silver. And what a picture the sunset painted ! Whereas two mountains were depicted in Lake Colden, no less than four found here their photographed features. To the W. Mt. Mclntyre was reflected ; at the S. frowned Mt. Colden; in the E. old Tahawus painted its black form ; while 'The Bear,' threw its sable counterfeit at the N. How beautiful, grand and impressive ! This little mirror in the woods, scarce a half mile broad, by the same distance in length, holding in its heart four frowning monsters, three of them the sublimest of the Wilderness, of which one is among the stateliest in the nation. How like the human heart enshrining grand objects in its small receptacle, and show- ing thus its lofty capabilities, as did Napoleon, — 'The ebbs and flows of wliose single soul Were tides to the rest of mankind.' " Clear Lake itself would be a wonder in any country ex- cept in the Adirondacks. The purity and clearness of its waters, its bottom and shores of pure white sand, and its location, nestled among the tallest peaks of the State, would give it wide-spread fame in any land where lakes were not so plentiful. 324 THE ADIRONDACKS. Near the thicket-fringed strand of this sequestered water, imbosomed in a grove of native trees, and encircled by this imposing scenery stands Adirondack Lodge. This struct- ure in tasteful and unique design is perhaps unsurpassed in rustic architecture. It is built entirely of logs and in the most artistic style. It is 87 feet in length and 40 feet in breadth, not to name a wing of nearly equal size. It is 2^/2 stories in height and the first stoiy is surrounded by a spacious veranda. Upward of 600 fine, straight spruce trees were used in building the Lodge. The logs were joined together with the utmost care, the bark remaining undisturbed, and the corners displaying no marks of the . axe. They were placed so as to touch each other their entire length. The building.is surmounted by a lofty tower which affords the observer an outlook 65 feet above the ground. This furnishes a marvelous prospect of the en- vironing scenery with all its impressive wildness and gran- deur remaining untouched by civilization. Within and on top of the tower are two pavilioned rooms, respectively 20 and 10 feet square, very easy of access from the interior of the house, and affording delightful lounging and smok- ing-places. These pavilions are securely balustraded and are connected by easy stairs. This is a novelty in moun- tain-hotel architecture and will be found a most desirable appendage to the Lodge. Indeed, the construction of this building in its entirety shows wonderful skill in the archi- tect. It is the largest log house in the State and probably in America. It is also the most elevated hotel in the Adi- rondacks, standing 2,160 feet above sea- level. It is com- modiously, even elegantly furnished ; though everything is in rustic style. All useless luxuries are -carefully omitted as not in harmony with the wild surroundings, but nearly every modern improvement that contributes to the comfort and pleasure of tourists is included in the equipment. The house is supplied with the purest water, and the most per- fect sanitary system has been adopted. Large fire-places will be found in the principal apartments. There is a general sitting-room, another for ladies, a reading and smoking room for gentlemen, and a music-hall with a piano, an organ and a violin. Lawn-tennis and croquet grounds, a rifle-range and a bowling-alley, give additional enjoyment m > > ADIRONDACK LODGE. CLEAR LAKE. 325 to visitors. Boats on the lake are free to guests. In fine, its charming seclusion and rare attractions induce many to give it their patronage. Capacity, ioo. (P. O., North Elba, N. Y.) Adirondack Lodge offers an unusual opportunity to those who desire to penetrate deeply into the fastnesses of these mountains, which are, and should be the pride of New York. The Lodge is especially notable as being the nearest of any of the mountain-resorts to the true sovereign of the Adirondack Range, Mt. Marcy. It is reached by an ex- cellent trail, affording the easiest route to the summit. In addition, direct trails radiate from the Lodge to various points named in the following table, (some of which have heretofore been inaccessible) by direct or easy routes. A bridle-path leads to Cascade Lakes (8 m) passing through "South Meadows," (2 m.) a level tract of land embracing perhaps 1,000 acres, densely covered with wild grass. (See p. 318). A carriage for Adirondack Lodge meets stages daily at the transfer station, near Mountain View House, or at North Elba. A Round Trip from Adirondack Lodge. Trail to Indian Pass, 6 m ; through Pass, 1 m.; thence to Upper Iron Works, 5 m.; Calamity Pond, 5 m.; Lake Colden, 2 m.; Avalanche Lake, ij4 m ; back to Adirondack Lodge, 5 m.. Total, 26^ m. Excursion might be varied by ascending Mt. Marcy from Lake Colden, 5 m. Stop over at "Deserted Village," and perhaps at "Lake Colden Camp." (See Upper Iron Works.) TABLE OF DISTANCES. From Clear Lake (Adirondack Lodge), to MILES. Avalanche Lake, . . . Trail, 5 Lake Colden, . . . • " 6% Mt. Marcy (Summit), via Lake Colden, " 1 1 % Mt. Marcy, (Summit), (direct route), . 7 y 2 Mt. Mclntyre, (Summit), . . " 4j£ or 5 MILES. Trail , 2 tt 2 a 6 u ] 2 Road, 4 a 5% (< 2 tt 9^ a 1 / 2oy 2 (( 27^ a 35^ " 10 a >7# it 26^ r. 49 a n 1 / 9Y2 (t *7# 326 THE ADIRONDACK^. Mt. Jo, (" The Bear") (Summit), . Junction of Indian Pass Trail, . Indian Pass, .... Deserted Village of Upper Iron Works, "Blin's," ..... Mountain View House, (Path, 4m) South Meadows, Cascade Lake House, (Bridle-path, 8m) Keene Valley, (Trail, 10 or 12 m ), . Elizabethtown, .... Westport, .... Wilmington Pass, Wilmington, . Ausable Forks, . Plattsburgh, Lake Placid, Lower Saranac Lake Hotel, Near Avalanche Lake (on the route) a water-fall of 20 or 25 feet strikes a rocky ridge and divides — part feeding the Hudson, the remainder the Ausable. Avalanche Lake and Gorge, are among the most stupen- dous wonders of the Adirondacks. Distance through Gorge, iy 2 m. William B. Nye, the noted mountain-explorer, when cut- ting out the trail to the summit of Tahawus, discovered, near the route, (about 4 m. from Clear L.) on a rivulet leaping from the airy heights above, a cascade of exquisite beauty, which he christened "Wallace's Falls." This has the highest elevation of any cascade, with an equal volume of water, in the Great Forest. Continuing our course from Mountain View House, within 3 m. we reach the hamlet of North Elba. The principal celebrity of this section, aside from its scenery, lies in its having been for several years the home of John Brown.* Let us give a brief history of the early settlement of this town. In the year 1804 a few pioneers with their families entered into I his remote and deeply secluded region. Divided from civilized society by a chain of almost impenetrable mountains, they probably reached the place by the circuit- ous route along the course of Saranac River and via the present village •This name should not be confounded with that ol the former owner of John Brown's Tract, from whom Uiat section derived Its name. (See p. 61). JOHN BROWN. NORTH ELBA. %2j of Saranac Lake. This particular tract of rolling table-land was then known as the "Great Plains" or the "Plains of Abraham."* Until 1809 little progress was made in the condition of this distant colony ; but the construction about that time of the extensive works on Chub River, near the foot of Lake Placid, by Archibald Mclntyre, of Albany, and his as- sociates, under the name of "The Elba Iron & Steel Co.," with a capi- tal of $100,000, gave a new aspect to the affairs of the colonists. The business for several years was very successful ; but its remoteness from market finally ruined the enterprise, and the plant was practically aban- doned in 1826. (.See Upper Iron Works.) In 1840 only 7 families remained on the 91,000 acres now forming the town of North Elba. At this period an important event occurred in the checkered history of that district. Gerrit Smiih, the eminent philanthropist, who had become an extensive land owner in that town, offered to present to colored persons a large number of lots from his wild tract, embracing 40 acres each, with the design of forming a colony, which should at the same time consti- tute a safe and congenial asylum for numerous fugitive slaves who were fleeing from the South to Canada. Many of them accepted the gener- ous offer. But much suffering and disappointment soon followed and the scheme for a long time seemed abortive. In 1849 a man called upon Mr. Smith, at his home in Peterboro, and referring to the project which had been announced in the newspapers, represented to him, that the negro, without experience in his contem- plated occupation and unaccustomed to the climate, was not adapted to the intended colonization. He proposed to take up a farm in North Elba, and by affording the negroes instruction and partial employment, to aid in the enterprise. Mr. Smith acquiesced in his views and prompt- ly conveyed to him 350 acres. This person was John Brown. At that time he was 49 years of age and a resident of Massachusetts. Soon afierwards he removed to North Elba with his family and his flocks and herds. He erected a humble dwelling — plain and unpainted — on the summit of a high bluff on the W. bank of the Ausable, whose ebon waters wind their way through a rocky glen 200 feet below, and almost beneath the shadow of the loftiest pinnacles of the Adirondacks. This was his last though nominal home during the eventful scenes of the suc- ceeding 10 years which have passed into history. It is generally be- lieved that he was the indirect means of precipitating the late war. From North Elba he and his boys departed for Harpers Ferry, and to this place his inanimate remains were returned ; and also those of three of his sons. Frederick, slain at Ossawatomie, f August 30, 1856, and Oliver and Watson, killed at Harpers Ferry, Oct. 17th and 19th, 1859. "The vestiges of Indian occupation which remain In North Elba and around the Interior lakes, leave no doubt that at some former period the Aborigines congregated there In large numbers. An obscure tradition exists that the daring partisan Rogers, with his rangers, once destroyed the village, in the absence of the warriors, situated on the "Plains of Abrabam." Relics of both European and savage weapons of war, found on tbe scene of the supposed conflict, seem to corroborate the legend. [Watson's Essex Co.] tit was from this battle-neld that John Brown received the sobriquet of "Old Ossawatomie." He was executed at Cbarlestown, Va.. Dec. 2, 1859. 328 THE ADIRONDACKS. His grandfather's tombstone, ancient, and weather-tinged, brought at John Brown's request from Massachusetts, and carefully protected from the relic-seeker, marks the picture.' que spot near the house which he himself selected, where repose their remains, although the immense boulder at the foot of the sepulcher on the face of which is inscribed, in bold letters, "John Brown, 1859," is the most appropriate monument imaginable. Loving hands have planted roses and other flowers over and around their resting-place. "All, friends and foes, bore testimony to the native dignity of mind, person and manner belonging to John Brown. Inflexible in purpose, and unconquerable in spirit, Nature seemed to have cast him in the iron mould of the Puritan warrior." (Street). "Had he been made of such poor clay as we, — Who, when we feel a little fire aglow 'Gainst wrong within us, dare not let it grow, But crouch and hide it, lest the scorner see And sneer, yet bask our self-complacency In that faint warmth, — had he been fashioned so, The Nation ne'er had come to that birlh-lhroe That gave the world a new Humanity. He was no mere professor of the word — His life a mockery of his creed ; — he made No discount on the Golden Rule but heard Above the senate's brawls and din of trade Ever the clank of chains, until he stirred The Nation's heart by that immortal raid." [Wm. Herbert Carruth, in New England Magazine ] It should be stated that, though John Brown faithfully performed the duties he had undertaken, and though the colonization project seeming- ly prospered for awhile, yet in the end it proved a failure. Many of the freeholds were sold for taxes, and most of the settlers removed to other places. To-day, few if any of the large number of original grantees retain the homesteads they received. [Watson's Essex Co.] '•John Brown's Grave," the modern Mecca, of many a pilgrimage, is within % m of the highway leading to Saranac Lake, the house being clearly visible from the road. The farm and residence* have been secured by a company consisting of Kate Fields, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Williams, Wm. H. Lee, Geo. A. Robbins, G. C. Ward, D. R. Martin, Chas. A. Smith, Isaac Sher- man, Elliot C. Cowden, Thomas Murphy, Chas. G. Judson, Salem H. Wales, Sinclair Toucey, Horace C. Claflin, Henry Clews, LeGrand B. Cannon, S. B. Chittenden and J. S. Schultz. To the untiring exertions of the fair name that heads the list, this company is indebted for its or- ganization. Its object is to hold this property to commemorate the most startling event in the extraordinary career of the "martyr hero." •'When I revisited the Adirondacks recently/' says Miss Field, "I found our property worth three times what we had paid for it, ($2,000), •Plain but wholesome refreshments are obtainable at this place. JOHN BROWN'S HOUSE, AND GRAVE. LAKE PLACID. 329 the house in good repair, and John Brown's grave the goal of all tourists." From North Elba a trail, passing S. of Robinson P. and near Camus P. (N.) extends W. to Cold and Ray Brooks and other waters adjacent to Lower Saranac Lake. Another trail leads S. W. to Moose P. (8 m), and thence to the 3 Preston Ponds, near Upper Iron Works. (5 m.) Stages leave North Elba daily for Adirondack Lodge, Lake Placid, Mountain View House, Cascade Lake House, &c. At North Elba we will again diverge from the direct road to Lower Saranac Lake and conduct the reader 2 m. nor- therly to one of the most delightful and impressive of all the Adirondack h.iunts, Lake Placid. This noble expanse of water (5 x 1%), through its outlet, Chub River, is the principal source of W. Ausable River. Being partially di- vided longitudinally by a row of beautiful islands ("Buck," "Moose" and ' Hawk;" the first two large, the latter, small,) it almost assumes the form of two distinct bodies, locally termed "East," and "West Lake." It is distin- guished for the placidity and clearness of its waters, its unique. and comely proportions, and its grand and fascinat- ing surroundings. A combination of lake, forest and mountain scenery is here presented, perhaps unsurpassed in the entire Adirondack Region. "Old Whiteface," the stately outpost of a countless host, rises majestically from the head of the lake, the personification of loftiness and loneliness. Paradox Pond connects with Lake Placid at its southern extremity by a narrow strait, its only inlet or outlet. A curious phenomenon gives this sheet its name. A swift current of water flows from the lake into the pond for a space of 3 or 4 minutes, and after an interval of about 7 minutes the current is reversed — the water discharging in- to the lake again. This mysterious action is of perpetual occurrence. Mirror Lake, formerly palled Bennett's Pond (ij^ x }4), a handsome sheet with romantic environment, lies about yi m. S. E. of Lake Placid, being separated from its waters by a commanding eminence. 33° THE ADIRONDACK^. Picturesquely skirting the western shore of Mirror L and lying almost in the lap of the "Great Range," is the Village of Lake Placid (P. O., the same), with its neat dwelling- houses, well-kept streets and general air of thrift. Here are stores of different kinds, several attractive churches, a number of elegant summer-residences of prominent people from the leading cities, and even an opera house. The construction of the Saranac & Lake Placid Railroad, terminating 3/£ m. S. of the village has placed the Lake Placid district in connection with the principal lakes of the region, and also in easy and rapid communica- tion with the outside world. Being a three-rail line, the narrow gauge cars of the Chateaugay R. R , as well as the standard gauge cars of the Adirondack & St. Law- rence Line, are enabled to convey passengers to Lake Placid without change. (See pp. 185, 231, 247). Hotel accommodations in this locality are sufficiently ample to satisfy every demand. Nash's farm-house, facing Mirror L , and the Lake Placid House, formerly, "Brews- ter's," standing between the head of Mirror L. and L. Pla- cid, have long been known to the public. The former — a quaint structure — where in 1872 we tarried for several days, we believe still provides for the wants of a limited number. The Lake Placid House has been lately rebuilt in accord- ance with modern requirements, and now offers good enter- tainment to about 60 guests. In the approach from North Elba the first public-house reached is Mirror Lake Hotel, one of the most sumptu- ous of summer-resorts. It is enchanting in its situation, imposing in its magnitude, attractive in its architecture and admirable in all its arrangements. In fact, it will compare favorably with many of the grand hostelries that the tour- ist may visit in any locality. It is owned by the "Lake Placid Hotel Co." and is equal to the wants of nearly 400 guests. Backed by the tireless energy of such men as Paul Smith, president of the company, Phelps Smith, vice-presi- dent, and Charles E. Martin, manager, large capital has been expended in improving and beautifying the property. Many of the former habitues of the celebrated caravan- sary at St. Regis Lake, will recognize in Mr. Martin, the 3 o I LLJ < — a O a ai < -J O or MIRROR LAKE HOTEL. 331 brother-in-law of Paul Smith and once the exceedingly popular clerk of that establishment. His name and tuition under such a master are guarantees of excellence. To his persistent endeavors more than to any other cause, may be attributed the construction of the Saranac & Lake Placid Railroad, the connecting link between the villages of Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. Mirror Lake Hotel is 5 stories high and has a frontage of over. 200 feet. Its spacious verandas look out upon pictures of great natural beauty, while from the tower sur- mounting the building and rising to the height of 115 feet the view that bursts upon the spectator like a lovely vision, combines Italian verdure and softness with Swiss sublimity. This house is commodious and luxurious in the fullest sense of the word. The large reception-rooms are tastefully fur- nished and have open fire-places. The two grand drawing- rooms on the first floor are connected with a beautiful and capacious music-hall, which often, in the evening presents a brilliant spectacle of gay people whirling in the mazy dance to the inspiriting strains of a fine orchestra. The sleeping-apartments are of generous size, high, cool and well ventilated. In these, the best of 40 lb. hair mattresses woo the weary or nervous traveler to repose. As many as 12 rooms en suite can be obtained on every floor. The decorations and furnishings are elegant and fashionable. Each room is supplied with electric bell and incandescent lights. It should be noted that among the mountains, fires are a frequent necessity, even in midsummer; hence steam- heat at this house insures comfort to guests. The advan- tages for various kinds of entertainment are numerous, and each has its devotees. In the pleasant basement will be found well- finished billiard-parlors for ladies and gentlemen, and a bowling- alley ; also smoking and reading-rooms; likewise a chil- drens' play-room of large size. Pure water, from mountain-springs of abundant flow, is conducted through the hotel by a perfect system. Scien- tific plumbing renders the sanitary arrangements complete. The table, in charge of a sk^ful '''Chef de cuisine" and 332 THE ADIRONDACKS. well disciplined waiters, is always satisfying even to the exacting epicure. A resident physician is in constant attendance. The park-like grounds are laid out with elegance and taste and slope gently to the waters of Mirror Lake. Every style of vehicle appropriate for mountain-travel may be obtained at the extensive hotel-livery, enabling guests to enjoy charming drives through ever-varying scen- ery, over the excellent roads in the vicinity. So numerous are the points of interest within easy reach of Lake. Placid that the enterprising traveler may be delightfully engaged for many days, visiting daily new scenes of rare beauty. The accompanying distance-table will aid the reader in making a selection of excursions. The Grand View House has an admirable situation on elevated ground, a short distance N. of Mirror Lake Hotel. With its late additions, it has nearly doubled its former size and is now one of the largest hotels in the region, affording entertainment for 200 guests. It is well entitled to the name it bears. From its grand location, both rooms and verandas command the loveliest views of lake, forest and mountain-scenery. The house is thoroughly built, is fur- nished in the best manner and no pains have been spared to make it complete in every particular. Thus, it affords the traveler nearly every possible comfort, convenience and luxury. Pure spring-water is on every floor. Drainage and sanitary conditions are perfect. Telegraph-office in the building It has an excellent livery. The Stevens House is most imposingly situated on the lofty bluff (elevation, over 2,000 ft. above tide) between Mirror Lake and Lake Placid. The original structure was destroyed by fire several years since, but the proprietors with commen- dable enterprise reared in its place a stately edifice of splen- did proportions. The main building, as well as the large annex and auxiliary cottages, is fitted up with every modern appliance, is luxuriously furnished and has all the desirable features of a first class mourrtain-h'otel. It is admirably arranged with spacious parlors and dining-rooms, and numerous convenient, airy and well-equipped sleeping apartments, many of them having open fire-places. The LAKE PLACID AND MIRROR LAKE. STEVENS' HOUSE. STEVENS HOUSE. LAKE PLACID. 333 table, of fastidious service, is supplied from the connecting farm, and also with various metropolitan delicacies. Water, sewerage and plumbing are of the best. A superb orches- tra gives concerts daily, and furnishes music for evening hops. Opportunities for the most popular modes of rec- reation are offered. With an excellent livery at command every facility is afforded tourists desirous of visiting the neighborhood, so replete with attractions. There is a telegraph-office on the premises. The entire establishment accommodates 350 guests. No site could well be more beautiful than that occupied by the Stevens House. The view obtained from the piazzas and observatory is one of the grandest that any region affords. Facing the south, we survey a lake and mountain picture almost peerless in its variety and sublimity. Marcy, Haystack, Mclntyre, Wallface, Colden, Basin, Saddleback, the Gothics and many smaller pinnacles, are conspicuous in the scene. In other directions we look upon Whiteface, Sentinel, Pitch Off, Henderson, Seward, Santanoni, Amper- sand and other majestic summits. Then there are the lovely lakes at our feet, forming perhaps the most charm- ing feature of the picture. Verily we seem to be looking upon an enchanted realm. Tourists who have repeatedly traveled through Europe are filled with surprise and ad- miration when surveying this spectacle, and admit that it surpasses any they ever beheld. In lake and mountain-prospect the Stevens House fairly divides the honors with Saranac Inn. By the majority of visitors, however, that of the former is considered superior. But it should be remembered that these magnificent masses are about a score of miles more, remote from Upper Sara- nac Lake ; and though their outlines are far less defined, yet "distance lends enchantment to the view," and awe- inspiring grandeur is softened thereby into exquisite beauty. (See p. 266). Stages from all these hotels await the trains at the sta- tion. The Ruisseatjmont occupies a commanding position on the eastern shore of Lake Placid, ^ m. N. E. of the vil- 334 THE ADIRONDACKS. lage. It is a modern erection of recent date and sprang into instant popularity. It is a large and stately edifice, whose architectural peculiarities form a bewildering aggre- gation of gables and towers, of verandas and colonial facades. It stands out in bold relief from the dark background of the rocky leaf-clad slopes of Mt. Whitney ("Cobble Moun- tain") rising directly in the rear ; while the singular cliff called the "Devil's Pulpit" displays its bold front in the. opposite direction. The site combines with pleasant forest- surroundings a lake and mountain view of great extent and wondrous beauty. The appointments and manage- ment are of the first order. The cuisine and attendance are of the highest standard. It luxuriously provides for 200 guests. Carriages meet every train at the station, about 2 m. distant. (P. O., Lake Placid, N. Y.) Lakewood Inn is a new and already popular aspirant for public favor. Full details have not yet reached us. Whiteface Inn, formerly called "The Westside," (P. O., Whiteface, N. Y.) is on the W. shore and near the foot of Lake Placid. It is a large establishment situated on a commanding plateau inclining gracefully to the beach, and with its several neat cottages; is embowered in a grove of maple, balsam and other evergreen trees. Its situation is picturesque and delightful, while from the verandas is com- manded the finest uninterrupted view of Whiteface Mt , of the three islands, and of the lake itself, that any hotel in the vicinity affords. The grounds, displaying verdant lawns interspersed with trees of the virgin forest, remind one of a well kept English park, and embrace several hundred acres, that skirt the lake for fy of a mile. Through these sylvan shades and along the shore, delightsome rambles are en- joyed. From the summit of Colburn Peak, only % m. from the house, and easily attained, may be witnessed one of the grandest panoramas the region offers, embracing the whole scenery of the principal giants of the Adirondack Range. Whiteface Inn, though comparatively new, has already gained a high position among the Wilderness hotels. It has recently been refitted and re- embellished, and now possesses every modern improvement and convenience. > 7s > n > z o > n m S O: c z H > o s I H m ■n > n z z WHITEFACE INN. LAKE PLACID. 335 General comfort, cleanliness and superior accommodations prevail. It is conducted by a reputable manager who en- deavors by the most strict attention to the wants of guests, to merit the excellent reputation the house has acquired. It will be found a cool and lovely spot in which to spend a summer vacation. Capacity, 140. A branch road leads from here, intersecting the stage road to Saranac Lake, 1^ m. W. of North Elba. "Castle Rustico," a large rustic structure, built entirely of logs, is also located on the W. shore, but towards the head of the lake, opposite Moose Island. When it is con- ducted as a hotel it receives about 60 guests; but it is not always kept open to the public. (P. O., Whiteface, or Lake Placid, N. Y.) The northern end of Lake Placid is especially bold and imposing. The primeval forest stretches from the rocky shore to the surrounding mountain-tops, and water, islands, woods and ever- changing sky conspire to charm the senses. Upon a rocky point within 1 y 2 m. (by water,) of the foot of "Old Whiteface," stands "Under-Cliff," one of the most picturesque of the select resorts of the Adirondacks. A pretty woodland park, a cluster of snowy tents and c( zy cottages encircling the central buildings, and a fine boat-house and lake-side casino suggest only the physical features of a most unique and delightful spot for a summer sojourn. The owner is a city- physician who insists on per- fect sanitation without any appearance of invalidism, and the motto of the management is "comfort and excellence." Viands of various kinds, simple, generous and carefully prepared, rather than the less wholesome luxuries of the great hotels, furnish the well-served table. By following well- graded paths a mile or less, leading in different directions through the fragrant woods, we will reach pearly mountain-brooks, sparkling waterfalls, and other points of the wildest beauty ; and on these routes, from elevations of moderate height, views of great range are gained. Under-Cliff is visited by many tourists, to avoid the noise, bustle and expense of the larger houses. It affords us pleasure to recommend this quiet, restful and charming retreat. Capacity, 50. It is accessible from 336 THE ADIRONDACKS. Lake Placid Village, its P. O., 4 m. distant, by row-boat or steamer. To ascend Mt. Whiteface we follow a path leading from the head or northern end of Lake Placid. The rise is gradual at the commencement, but as the summit is ap- proached, becomes very abrupt; and let it not be con- sidered an easy matter to scale this pinnacle. We believe it is attended with some danger and the prudent will be accompanied by a guide. But if the task were five times as difficult the climber would be well rewarded for his toil. (See pp. 230, 274). Distance from base to crown, 35^ m. The ascent and return trip to the different hotels are ac- complished within a day. Ladies have performed all this but not without suffering great fatigue. Charles E. Martin of Mirror Lake Hotel and A. E. Putnam of New York, have purchased Whiteface Mt., and a first-class carriage road will soon be constructed from that hotel to the summit, (about 8 m. distant) and a "tip- top house" erected. All tourists to this locality will be deeply indebted to Mr. Martin for his untiring efforts in rendering Lake Placid and the sum- mit of this far-famed mountain so easily accessible. Lake Placid as a pleasure- resort, has a very select follow- ing and the best social elements have here full sway. It is mostly the rendezvous of a refined and wealthy class of tourists. Affording, as it does the nearest complete view of the most prominent peaks of the Adirondacks, likewise enchanting pictures of less elevated scenery, and its alti- tude, invigorating air, palatial hotels and agreeable society being considered, a visit to this spot becomes in time a de- lightful memory. And now that railroad communication is established, it may safely be prophesied that the day is not far distant when it will have become one of America's most popular watering-places. It already attracts annually thousands of visitors. The sumptuous cottages of many of these, in chosen places, adorn the richly wooded banks of Lake Placid as well as the shores of Mirror Lake. Fishing and hunting are as good in the neighborhood as at any other locality in the mountainous section, though ROUTES FROM LAKE PLACID. 337 trout and deer are not generally as abundant among the mountains as on the lowlands or plateau.* The pretty little steamer Ida affords tourists delightful trips upon Lake Placid. Stages depart daily for Mountain View House, Cascade Lakes, Keene, Keene Valley, Elizabethtown and Westport. TABLE OF DISTANCES. From the Village of Lake Placid. MILES. Whiteface Inn, 4 Under Cliff, .... 4 North Elba, ..... 2 John Brown's Grave, 3 Adirondack Lodge, Clear Lake, 9% Mt. Marcy, (Summit), i7 Indian Pass, ..... J S^ Upper Iron Works, (Deserted Village), . 21% Mountain View House, 5 Cascade Lake House, 9 Keene Center, .... 15 Keene Valley Village, 20 St. Hubert's Inn, . 23 Elizabethtown, .... 27 Westport, ..... 35 Wilmington Notch, 1% Wilmington, ..... 15 Ausable Forks, .... 24 Saranac Lake Village, (via R. R.), 9 or 9^ Saranac Inn, (via R. R.), . Paul Smith's, (via R. R.) ig}4 '3*A Averyville, . 5 Miss Newman's, .... 4 Around the Square, 7 Around Mirror Lake, .... 3*A *It is stated that on Aug. ] , 1893, a salmon-trout 40 inches in length, 23 inches in girth and 26 lbs. in weight was caught in Lake Placid. Indeed this water is becoming famous for large trout. 338 THE ADIRONDACKS. Conery Pond (ix^), is 1% m. N. E. of the village. Thence it is 1 m. W. to Lake Placid, and % m E. to the abandoned "Notch House" on the Wilmington Pass road. From this road to Owen's P. (^ x % ; nearly round) it is 1 m. E. by a good path along its outlet. Lying 3/i m. N. E. of Owen's P. is the small Wink P., one of its sources. About 50 rods N. of W. of the head of Conery P. is Long P. {z/ A x }i). Three-fourths m. N. E. of this is Nigger P. (10 acres). Tom Peck P. lies % m. S. W. of the lower end of Conery Pond. The three ponds last named empty into Conery Pond. Holcomb P. (1 x y^) lies about 2 m. farther S. on the E. side of Ausable River, and % m. from the Pass road. It is small but attractive. Cherry Patch P. in the vicinity, on the W. side of the river, is unimportant. All these forest-hidden waters ex- cept Wink P. are plentifully supplied with trout. (See p. 276.) Returning to North Elba, from, this point to Lower Sara- nac Lake (10 m.) the route lies through a section devoid of important interest ; though it should be noted that a pleasant resort, the Ray Brook House, 6 m. beyond this place, is passed on the way. (See pp. 250, 255.)* •Let not the traveler be misled by our following the old-time route from Mountain View House to Saranac Lake. Of course, if he consults convenience and speed, he will visit the latter point, from Lake Placid, by rnllroaa. (Lake Placid to Saranac Lake Village, by cars, 9'A m.; thence to Lower Saranac Lake, by stage, ljf m. Total, 10% m.) DOWN LAKE PLACID FROM UNDER-CLIFF. THE BOAT HOUSE AT UNDER-CLIFF. LAKE PLACID. DIVISION IV. INTO THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN, HUDSON RIVER, RAQUETTE AND LONG LAKE REGIONS. Port Henry, Crown Point, Fori Ticonderoga, Fort Edward and Saratoga Springs, afford eligible avenues to these sections. Twenty-sixth: — From Port Henry to Mineville it is 7 m., via Lake Cham plain and Moriah R. R., whence it is 13^ m. to St. Hubert's Inn, via a fair wagon-road. Total, 20 % m. This will soon become an easy and popular route to Keene Valley, as commodious cars are to be placed on this line and the road is to be put in perfect condition. (See pp. 219, 305). From Mineville, Bald Peak (Ind., Oh-no-ro-no-rum, " Bald Head ") is most easily ascended. The summit com- mands a fine view of Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. Near Mineville a road branches from the highway and leads N. W. to a new haven of rest and recreation styled Pine Ridge Cottage. Though called a " cottage " it is a large structure 2 j£ stories high and over 200 feet long. This pleasant situation offers interesting views of distant mountains faintly outlined against the sky. Within 1 % or 2 m. is Long Pond, a handsome sheet of water (p. 291); and in the immediate vicinity are Chellis, Hatch and Chafey's Ponds. Bass, trout and pickerel abound in these waters. Pine Ridge Cottage is located in the town of North Hudson, about 14 m. from Port Henry. It has already become quite popular and fashionable. By following this route still farther N. W. New Russia may be reached where another resort called " Lavertey's," will be found. (See p. 288). 340 THE ADIRONDACKS. From Port Henry to "Root's" 17 m.; thence to "White House," 4^ m.; thence to "Fenton's" ^ m.; Boreas River (La Bier's), 8 m.; Tahawus ("Lower Iron Works"), 6 m.; Newcomb, 7*4 m.; Long Lake, 13 m. Total, 56^ m. Stage daily to Root's; fare, $1.50. Stage, Monday, Wed- nesday and Friday to Newcomb; fare, $300; on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from Newcomb to Long Lake; fare, $4.50. The route for a large portion of this distance after leav- ing Schroon River, passes through a section noted for its wild sublimity. Spurs of the Adirondack Mountains are crossed, rendering the road quite uneven,* but at the same time affording views of surpassing beauty and grandeur, which often burst upon the eye with startling abruptness.! At different places between Port Henry and "Root's," either N. or S. of the route, are Crowfoot, Moriah, Round, Twin, Ensign, Bullpout (200 a.), Pine, Hammond, Hatch, Moose Mt., Lily Pad, Rogers', Berry and Spectacle Ponds. "Root's!" Who among Adirondack tourists is unfamiliar with this time-honored name ? Perfectly home-like in all its appointments, this long-established " Sportsman's Re- treat " affords a most agreeable resting place for the weary traveler. Guests are furnished with pleasant rooms, and. supplies are procured at " Root's Store." Although this establishment has changed hands, it continues to bear the old name. (P. O., Schroon River, N. Y.) Excellent fishing is found in the " W. Sturtevant," or "North West Branch," a stream that flows from Hunter's Pass through Elk Lake, passes thence S. W., receives the waters of Clear Pond through its % m. outlet, and unites with Schroon River 1 m. W. of the inn. This river flow- ing southerly, enters Schroon Lake and departs thence at its S. extremity for Hudson River. Root's Mountain, near by, is often ascended and com- mands a varied prospect of dense woodland, cultivated fields and towering peaks. * This road Is being continually Improved. It Is excellent from Newcomb to Long Lake. t These are especially manifested at La Bier's, where a magnificent pano- rama of the great peaks Is unfolded. CLEAR POND. ELK LAKE. HUNTER'S PASS. 341 Johnson's Pond lies i% m. S. E. of "Root's," near the Crown Point road. At " Fenton's Place," which has a picturesque situation, a route to Mt. Marcy diverges N. at right angles as follows: — Clear Pond, 3 m.; Elk Lake, 2 m.; Mt. Marcy, 8^ m. These two ponds, each about 1 x %, are among the loveliest of the Adirondack waters — indeed they are almost peerless in their majestic surroundings.* Conspicuous in the grand picture presented here, are Dix's Peak, Ma- comb's Mt., Nipple Top and the Boreas Spires. By as- cending one of the neighboring heights, the entire Adiron- dack group is brought into magnificent display. The secluded " Lake-side Inn," at Clear Pond, offers fair accommodations to a limited number. So does the Elk Lake House at Elk Lake. Trout-fishing and deer- hunting are claimed to be excellent. At Elk Lake House the wagon-road terminates ; but through the praiseworthy exertions of Samuel Sanders, aided by the purses of the inhabitants of the town of Schroon, a bridle-path was many years ago constructed to the base of Mt. Marcy, (8fy m.). It crosses Ausable River, {$% m. distant) 1 m. above Up- per Ausable Lake. (See p. 311). This hotel is one of the nearest habitable points to this mountain, and this is the only method that enables the tourist to ride to the very foot of "Old Tahawus."f This trip may be varied by passing with a boat across the lake, y% m., and thence up an inlet about 2.% m , where the trail is taken. The opening of a good trail to the top of Dix's Peak, 5 m. N. E. of Elk L. is due to the enterprise of the same parties. The prospect enjoyed from the summit is one of the grandest that any of the range presents, and is richly worth the exertion required for its attainment. Few have trodden its narrow, giddy and dangerous ridge. Descend- ing the mountain and passing onward a short distance we •It should be stated, however, that Elk Lake Is dismally fringed with dead trees. It was formerly called Mud Pond. It was once the common haunt of the North American Bile, or Moose ; hence Its present name. t By later advices we learn that the path is not used by saddle horses now , as It Is considerably obstructed by fallen trees. It should be re-opened. There Is a large log camp within 6 rods of where Elk Lake trail diverges from "Panther uorge Trail," about % m. below the camp near Lake Tear. (See p. 310). 342 THE ADIRONDACKS. enter "Hunter's Pass" or "Gorge of the Dial." (See pp. 300, 3!3)- This imposing ravine is bounded by the stupendous walls of Dix's Peak on the S. E. side, and those of " The Dial " or Nipple Top* on the other. These mountains are classed among the loftiest of the Adirondack Range; and here their perpendicular sides, stretching away for a dis- tance of half a mile, attain an altitude of from 200 to 500 ft. "The walls," says the veteran hunter Elijah Simons, of Elizabethtown, "are not so high as those of Indian Pass, in sheer ascent, but they are still as green as God made them, and have not been desolated by fires as have the sides of Wallface and Mclntyre." Nature seldom displays a more amazing spectacle of gloomy, savage, solitary grandeur. Here perpetual silence reigns. Two lovely rivers, the Schroon and Bouquet, taking their rise in this place, course their way in opposite directions through the narrow gorge. (3 to 10 rods wide.) The pass is sometimes visited from " Root's," distant 11 m. via North Hudson. There is also a good trail from Elk Lake to the summit of Macomb Mt.; distance 3 m. With this digression we resume the main route. From La Bier's (Boreas River P. O.) a lumber- road leads to Boreas Ponds, 6 m. N, whence, if boats are available, the Ausable Lakes and Keene Valley may be reached. (See P- 3")- North, E. and S. of Boreas River, near the road, are Wolf, Sand and Cheney Ponds, with their marvelous views of Tahawus and the grand uplift of other mountain-crests, nearly lost in the clouds. West are the Van De Whacker Ponds. At Tahawus post-office (" Lower Iron Works,")f we again diverge N. from the regular avenue to examine one of the most interesting localities in this region. Passing 11 m. * Nipple Top derived its name from the curious elevation rising from the center ol its dome-shaped summit. This mountain was formerly known as "The Dial." t Two and one-half m. N. E., lying under the shadow of the North Elver Mts., are Birch and Trout Ponds, each 1 m. in length ; and S. E. of Tahawus a short distance, is Hysllp P. The "Adirondack Ikon & Steel Co." has erected a club-house at the " Lower Iron Works." (See Upper Iron Works.) m r- 7s > ?s t- m H O y D X en TJ m > THE DESERTED VILLAGE — UPPER IRON WORKS. 343 over a comfortable wagon-road, through a narrow valley skirted on opposite sides by Lake Sanford and a mountain- ous ridge, we arrive at the "Adirondack Upper Iron Works." The same point is also accessible by water as follows: — Outlet of Lake Sanford (Hudson River), 5 m.; Lake Sanford, 5 m.; inlet 1 m. Either route presents mountain pictures of infinite grandeur. Tahawus and many members of his royal court, " are piled Heavily against the horizon of the north, Like summer thunder-clouds." Astonishment possesses us when we find, in this lonely valley, a deserted village,* (not Goldsmith's, but Iron- smith's) as silent as the walls of Pompeii. When we visited the place in 1878, the structures standing there, comprised 14 or 15 dwelling-houses, a church, school-house, hotel, store, bank, warehouses, shops, forges, furnaces, etc., once teeming with life and activity, but then rapidly going to decay. None were occupied save a solitary habitation, the old hotel (now the " Club House ") in which the superin- tendent and his family had dwelt for several years, sole occupants of the hamlet, — "monarchs of all they surveyed." The different buildings were given over to the bats, and offered a free entry to cattle and sheep. Broken window- panes, and shutters dangling upon a single hinge while creaking dismally in the wind, gave to the spot a gruesome sense of loneliness. And as if this were not sufficient, a report had gone out that one of the houses was haunted ! To-day, with its grass-grown streets, and with the huge smelting-works and residences of the operatives fast crumb- ling into dust, the village presents a sad and singular spectacle. This is rendered all the more impressive by its wild environment and its remoteness from the settlements. The solid natural iron dam (Ind. Tsi-nagshe, "Place of Beavers ") over which pours the Hudson, f is one of the most unique objects in Nature's museum and excites the wonder and admiration of the beholder. It is said that this curiosity led to the discovery of the immense mineral •This Tillage was first called "Mclntyre," and the hank hore the same name. The church was christened " Tubal Cain." t The Hudson is here locally known as East, or Adirondack Elver. 344 THE ADIRONDACKS. wealth existing here, and to the subsequent settlement of the place. Much that is obscure and erroneous has been written and published concerning the discovery of this wonderful de- posit of iron-ore. Through the kind instrumentality of Mr. Robert Clarke, a nephew of David Henderson, the leading spirit in this important enterprise, and the senior member of the great publishing house of Robert Clarke & Co., of Cincinnati, we are enabled to place the facts before the reader, in the form of the following letter, a true copy of the original.* Elba, Essex Co , 14th October, 1826. Anhibald Mclntyre, New York: — My Dear Sir. — I wrote you after our arrival here two weeks ago, and hope you received the letter. We have now left the woods, and intend returning home for several reasons. We found it impossible to make a complete search for silver ore this season. Duncan McMartin's time will not allow him to remain longer at present, and to search all the likely ground would take at least a month longer. But the princi- pal cause of our quitting so soon, is the discovery of the most extra- ordinary bed of iron ore for singularity of situation and extent of vein, which perhaps this North American continent affords. As I have an hour or two to spare, I will give you a little sketch of our proceedings. The next day after we arrived here (Saturday) we went deer-hunting. All the settlement turned out and several deer were seen, but none killed. I had a shot at one, but at too great distance. On Sunday we went to Squire Osgood's meeting. On Monday got all in preparation for the woods pretty early. Just before we started, a strapping young Indian of a Canadian tribe, made his appearance at Darrows' gate. He was the first Indian that had been seen in the settlement for three years. Enoch (whom we had been plaguing about Indians and whose fears on that score were in consequence considerably excited) happened to be standing at the door when the Indian appeared, and made a pre- cipitate retreat to the back settlements of the house. "Well, now massa Henderson," he said; " this too bad. Don you 'collect I tells you not to bring me in 'mong Injins. They be a people I want nolhin' to do with." The Indian opened his blanket and took out a- piece of iron ore about the size of a nut, saying : "You want see 'em ore? Me know 'm bed, all same.'' " Where did you find it?" we asked. •At the date of this letter, Messrs. Henderson, Mclntyre, McMartin and others, owned and were carrying on the unremuneratlve Iron works In North Elba. (See p. 327). HENDERSON S LETTER. THE MARVELOUS DISCOVERY. 345 " Me know;" he replied. " Over mountain, whose water runs pom, pom, pom over dam like beaver dam, all black and shiny. Me find, plenty all same." " Does any other Indian know of it ?" " No; me hunt 'em beaver all 'lone last spring, when me find 'em." " Have you shown it to any white man ?" we anxiously questioned. " Yes ; me show him ore, but no bed. No white man go see it." " How far away is it?" " Me guess twelve miles over that way." The people about here laughed at the idea, and said the ore was no good, but the Indian had probably chipped it from a rock. But we had some further talk with him, and found that he had been at Graves' that morning, showing the ore to him, who had sent him after us. It seems that every one to whom he showed it, laughed at him; and no doubt, as Thompson thinks, Graves sent him to us that we might be led after the Indian on a "wild goose chase." The Indian being a very modest, honest looking fellow, we concluded to take him along with us at any rate; and inquired how much he would charge to remain in the woods with us until Saturday night. " Dollar, half, and 'bacco," he replied. To this moderate demand we assented ; so oft" we started with our packs on our backs. Our company consisted of Duncan and Malcolm McMartin, Dyer Thompson, our valiant nigger, the Indian, John Mclntyre and myself. By the way, the Indian's name is Lewis; his father's name is Elija and he calls himself Lewis Elija.* We (the descendants of Shem, Ham, and Japheth) trudged along the road in a peaceable manner; although it was plain to be seen that the descendant of Ham eyed the descendant Shem with suspicion, and kept at a most respectful distance. We followed the road- way through a clearing to the river, and wandered along its banks until we reached a point a mile above its bow. Dark- ness now approached; and we encamped for the night. Dyer cut an old birch tree for back and fore-logs — a tree which Mr. McMartin and I ascertained had withstood the blasts of one hundred and fifty winters. We procured the middle fire-wood from a huge pine that had been riven to splinters by the thunderbolts of heaven. Who could, that night, boast of so sublime a fire ? It was indeed a tremendous one, throwing a broad glare of light into the dark bosom of the wood. The very owls screeched as if wondering what it meant, and the blue-jays kept up an incessant chatter. Enoch said little, but thought much, always taking care not to be within a stone's throw of the Hebrew of the wilderness. But I find that neither time nor paper will admit of pursuing this train any longer. Tuesday and Wednesday were employed in running lines, and search- ing from near the ruins of the top of the largest burnt cobble, examining * This Indian was a cousin of Mitchell Sabattls, the celebrated guide, arid doubtless his full name was Lewis Elijah Sabattls. It Is possible that he was the son of " Old Sabele," the famous neralt of Indian Lake. 346 THE ADIRONDACK^. every ledge as we went along. On Thursday we came across your old camp, and removed ours to within a gun-shot of it. Finished the ex- amination of that cobble by the evening. No signs of what we wanted. We had a good deal of conversation with the Indian about his ore- bed, and found him a sagacious and honest fellow, extremely modest, and willing to do anything. Before going any farther, I wish you to understand that this is not the same Indian that Malcolm McMartin had heard had discovered an ore bed near Elba. That was an old Indian, who showed his bed to one Brigham, but it was not good. On Friday morning we all started with the Indian for the ore bed — our course to a notch in the South mountains where the river Au Sable has its source. After a fatiguing journey we arrived at the notch — as wild a place as I ever saw. We had to travel through a narrow pass, with an immense rock rising perpendicularly on one side, our way almost blocked in many places by large masses of what had tumbled down. Cfn the whole it was a terrific place to think of traveling through. Our descendant of Ham gazed in a fit of astonishment when he found that we were scrambling on and must go through that which seemed so dreadful before him. "Well, now, dis beat all!" said he. " Fo' God Almighty's sake! How kin a body ever get ober dis ? What put it in yo' compurmhen- shun ever to come to sich a place ? I never think there be such hor- rificable place in all dis world ! * On we climbed, and came to a spot where we were all obliged to slide down with some caution. Enoch was brought to his trumps at this necessity; he liked not the idea of s6 long a voyage on his beam ends, and declared to me with a great deal of pettishness that " dis was a complete take-in." A few minutes afterward he made good his footing to a tree, but some green moss at its root having covered a dreadful hole, poor Enoch's leg was destined to fill il , and down he came, camp kettle and all, the one leg pointing to the heavens, the other in the opposite direction; for it was a dreadful chasm below. "Well!" said I; "Enoch that is a complete 'take-in,' indeed!" At length we gained the summit of the notch — the very fountain-head of the Au Sable River where we found another stream running south. This appears to be the principal source of the Hudson River. We proceeded down the notch on the other side, and about half way were obliged to camp for the night. Our situation here was grand in the extreme — encamped at the head of North River in a nar- row pass, the moon glimmering by fits through the forest; the huge, perpendicular rocks on each side aspiring to the heavens for our cur- tains; the clouds for our canopy; the ground our bed and the infant murmurs of the giant river Hudson the music that lulled us to sleep. Astir betimes next morning, — it had every appearance of a rainy day, and we concluded to leave Enoch to make the camp as rain proof * The Aborigines are said to have deemed this desolate gorge haunted, or the abode ot the Evil Spirit ; but nevertheless, through Its portals led their well-worn trail, which gave this place the name ot "Indian Pass." Henderson's letter. — {Continued.) 347 as possible for the night. We took a little biscuit in our pockets, and left Enoch all alone. The Indian led us over a hill, and after traveling about four miles we came to the same stream on which we encamped the previous night, but of course it was much larger. On crossing this we found a great many pieces of pure iron ore lying in the channel. Some were as large as a pumpkin. We traveled down the stream about half a mile, when, to our astonishment, we found the bed of ore ! We had hitherto con- ceived it to be on the other side of the mountain. The river runs there nearly north and south and the vein strikes over it in a north-east and south-west direction. The Indian took us to a ledge five feet high running into the river, which was nothing but pure ore. He, however, had no idea of the extent of the vein. We went one hundred yards below the vein, where is a waterfall of ten feet, Mr. Duncan McMartin, his brother and the Indian, pro- ceeded down to a lake below* (which is about four miles long) to make observations. Mr. Thompson, John and myself returned to the ore- bed to make a particular examination and to await their return. We found the breadth of the vein to be about fifty feet. We traced it into the woods on each side of the river. On one side we went eighty feet into the woods, and digging down about a foot of earth, found a pure ore-bed there. Let me here remark ; this immense mass of ore is unmixed wilh any- thing. In the middle of the river where the water runs over, the chan- nel appears like the bottom of a smoothing iron. On the top of the vein are large chunks which at first we thought were stone; but lifting one (as much as Thompson could do) and letting it fall, it crumbled into a thousand pieces of pure ore. In short, the thing was past all conception ! We traced the vein most distinctly, the veins parallel to each other and running into the earth on both sides of the stream. We had the opportunity to see the vein nearly five feet from the surface of it, on the side of the ledge that falls straight down into the water ; and at this depth we made a cavity of a foot or two, where we found the ore crumbled to pieces. This, Thompson calls " shot ore." It was here of an indigo color. The grain of the ore is large. On the top of the ledge it seems to be a little harder than below, but not so hard but a chunk would break easily in throwing it down. Thompson considers it rich ore, and as we have now ascertained, entirely free from sulphur. Do not think it wonderful that this immense vein had not hitherto been discovered. It is an extraordinary place ; you might pass the whole and think it rock; — it has "been a received opinion that there was no ore south of the great ridge of mountains; a white man or even an Indian may not have traveled that way in years. But certain it is, here is the mother-vein of iron which throws her little veins and sprinklings over all these mountains. Duncan, Malcolm and the Indian returned to us. They paced from the lake and found it to be nearly ~ mile and a half from the ore-bed. The nearest house, where one Newcomb lives, is from six to eight miles * Lake Santord. 348 THE ADIRONDACKS. distant. The stream is excellent for works, and there is a good chance for a road to Newcomb where is a regular road. When the men re- turned to us the rain had begun to pour in torrents, and the day was nearly spent. We removed as much as possible all traces of work on the ore-bed — should it happen that any hunter might pass the spot. Drenched to the skin we hastened on our journey, the Indian our guide. What a wonderful sagacity is displayed by these unsophisticated children of the forest ! Let them but see sun, rivers or distant hills, or, failing those, the most indistinct previous tracks — they are never at a loss. " Here 'em bear to-day." " Moose here day 'fore yesterday." " Wolf here hour ago;" were frequent ejaculations of our Indian. I may here observe, when we were on the other side of the pass he turned up three tiers of leaves and said, " Brigham and me here two year ago." But to continue my narrative: Darkness came upon us, and we soon found that we had turned back — for we were going south with the stream. We made a great effort to return to the camp where we had left Enoch with our small stock of provisions that we had brought from our stationary camp; but it rained so hard we were weighted down with our wet clothes, and it was so dark we could hardly see our hands before our face. In short, we soon knew not in what direction we were going. The Indian now was of no more use as a guide than any of us; for without sun, head-lands or track, what could the poor Hebrew do ? We were indeed on the same stream on which we had left Enoch ; but to travel along its banks in the dark, over windfalls and rocks, we found was impossible. As a last resource we plunged into the stream with the intention of wading up till we came to Enoch, but soon found that also impossible ; and if it had been possible, dangerous. It was very cold also, for although all of us were as wet as water could make us, we were in a state of perspiration from the exertion, and it was consequently impossible for us to scramble up stream in the cold water. Being all wearied and hungry and Mr. Duncan McMartin feeling very ill, we halted about eight o'clock with the intention of waiting till morning. The prospect was very dreary. We had eaten nothing since early morning but a bite of biscuit, and all we had for supper was one partridge without any accompaniment, among six of us. We had great difficulty in getting fire — everything was wet, and the rain pouring down. The Indian at last got some stuff out of the heart of a rotten tree, and with some tow, he at length got a little fire started by the aid of my gun. But we had no axe, only a hatchet, and it being a place where there was little rotten wood, we could not with all our efforts make anything like a good fire. The rain wet faster .than the fire dried us; and to make matters more unpleasant, it became very cold, with a shower of snow. We cooked our partridge, divided it into six parts, and I believe ate bones and all. Small as was the portion for each, it did us much good. It cleared off toward morning, and you may imagine we gave day- light a hearty welcome. We found ourselves only a mile from the place where we left Enoch, and hastened to him as fast as our stiff legs would carry us. Henderson's letter. — (Continued?) 349 We found him asleep after a wakeful night of " terrification." " The storm howled deadly," he said, " all night." He did not shut his eyes for fear of bears, panthers, wolves and Indians, and the " horricate " thought of being left alone in such a place. The very first thing we did was to drink up all the rum we had, raw — about a glass each; and the breakfast we made finished everything but a piece of pork about two inches square. We slept about two hours, then set out on our homeward journey. This was Sunday morning. We all, not excepting the Indian, found ourselves weak from previous exertion and fatigue, and we had a pretty hard struggle to get back through the notch. Duncan McMartin's disorder continued, and we all felt that it would be impossible to reach our stationary camp that evening. So again we had the prospect of spending a day and a night without provisions. But we were more fortunate afterward. The Indian shot with the aid of Wallace, three partridges and n pigeon. One of the partridges flew some distance after it received the shot, and we gave it up as lost ; but Wallace lingered behind, and in a short time brought it to us in his mouth. For the information of Mrs. Mclntyre in the way of cookery, I will state, that with one of the partridges, the pigeon and a little piece of pork, we made an excellent soup in the camp kettle. The other two partridges we roasted in the Indian fashion. This made a plentiful supper for all of us for which we were certainly thankful. Next morning we started betimes for our camp, and the first thing we did upon arriving was to " tap the admiral." I now felt happy enough and contented with having witnessed another scene of " Life in the Woods." Thompson declared that he had never experienced such a time. We had now been out in the woods eight days without having our clothes off, and we concluded to go into the settlement and recruit a little. We arrived there that afternoon, and none of us received any injury from our little mishap. Next day the settlement turned out for a deer-hunt. I was on the opposite side of the river from the deer, — he came running toward me and I waited, expecting him to come into the river. But upon reaching the bank he discovered me and turned. When I fired, the ball broke his hind leg. He bleated piteously, gave a spring, and fell into the river, head first. Thompson endeavored to get at him, but he turned about and got to the opposite side of the river out of his reach. Poor creature ! He limped up the hill through the snow, his leg trailing behind him by the skin. He looked back and lay down two or three times before reaching the woods. The dogs followed him in and brought him out again. The poor mangled animal, lacerated behind by the ravenous dogs, was caught at last, and his throat cut. Confound the sport ! say I, if it is to be managed in this way ! Next morning we set off for the cobbles, over the Packard ridge, where we have been till this day. This enormous iron bed has kept possession of our minds. I dreamed about it. We judge it best to lose no time in securing it, if possible. We will take the Indian with us up to Albany — dare not leave him in this country. Mr. McMartin has made all observations he can, so as to come at it in Albany, and the 30 3SO THE ADIRONDACKS. Indian has drawn us a complete map of all the country about. If it has been surveyed, there will be little difficulty; if not, there will be much — but it must be overcome. The thing is too important for delay. Speculation in Essex County is lunning wild for ore-beds. It would not benefit the Elba works — no chance of a road. But the vein lies on a stream where forges can be erected for thirty miles below it. No ore bed has yet been discovered on that side. We have shown speci- mens of the ore to some bloomers, — they said there « as no doubt about it. I have written you fully, and will write again upon our arrival at Albany as to what can be done. In the meantime I am, dear sir, Yours truly, David Henderson. In accordance with the plan expressed in the letter, Mr. Henderson and his associates repaired directly to Albany, where they purchased the large tract of land embracing the principal beds of iron ore in this region. Subsequently 300 acres were cleared, a road was cut through the wilderness, so as to reach Lake Champlain, and with a capital of $1,000,000, (afterwards increased to $3,000,000), the "Adirondack Upper Iron Works," commenced on a grand scale.* But notwith- standing the extreme richness and inexhaustible abundance of this magnetic ore, (these beds being among the most extensive in the world) the endless forest of hard wood, and the perfect water-power, the enor- mous expense attending the transportation of the iron nearly 50 m. over corduroy roads to Lake Champlain rendered the business unprofitable; and the tragic fate of Henderson, depriving the company of its resolute and enthusiastic leader, precipitated the abandonment of the enterprise and the utter desertion of the village. The vast surrounding tract, forming a grand private re- serve of 130,000 acres, styled Adirondack Club Preserve, is still the property of the Adirondack Iron & Steel Co. Sportsmen are not allowed to trespass upon this territory. Entertainment, limited to one night, is furnished at the Club House of the company. The sleeping-rooms are large and the beds are good. The table is of remarkable variety and excellence, with milk and cteam in abundance, and trout a certainty. (P. O., Tahawus). Were this a public resort,, the Upper Iron Works, aside from their mineral resources, would have additional im- portance as a place of rendezvous for parties visiting the •David Henderson, Archibald Melntyre, Duncan McMartin, Archibald Robertson and David C. Colden were the original proprietors. Four moun- tains (and one lake) commemorate their names, viz :— " Henderson," " Me- lntyre," " McMartin," (afterwards changed to " Colden ") and " Eobertson," rising near Lake Henderson. DAVID HENDERSON. From an Oil Painting owned by Robert Clarke. ADIRONDACK CLUB PRESERVE. 35 1 various lakes and wonderful natural curiosities adjacent. The most important of these we will name: Lake Sanford, i m. S. of the village, (z. e., its inlet) is a river-like sheet, with a single island and fine mountain- views. In one place, apparently floating on its surface, is a curious rock-formation called "Napoleon's Cap," from its resemblance to the chapeau usually worn by the great commander. The Opalescent, wildest of rivers, enters its outlet after a turbulent flow from its mountain- girded home, thus en- riching the E. branch of the Hudson. Lake Sallie (^ x 1-16), lies 1 y 2 m. S. E. of the village by road, and from there the trail leads to upper Ausable Lake, 13 to 15 m. E. (See p. 309). Lake Jamie (j^ x }£), is $4 m. E. of the village by path. Two miles S. W. of the "Works," Hunter's Pond or Lake Harkness, connecting with Lake Henderson, lies in beauty and solitude. It is most easily reached via a path leading W. 1 m. from the head of Lake Sanford. Lake Andrew, W. of the latter, most famous for trout, is about 4 m. S. W. of the village. It is most commonly visited by following a trail leading 2^ m. W. from a point about midway of the length of Lake Sanford. Its outlet flows into Lake Delia, lying 3 m. S. W. Lake Henderson, (2 x %) (Ind., Ga-nu-da-yu, "Hand- some Lake,") lies J^ m. N. E. of the village. Its pictur- esque waters are held by a basin of solid rock and com- letely invested with lofcy peaks. Looking towards the W., N. W., and N. E., a grand and well nigh overpowering spectacle greets the eye, of which Henderson, Santanoni, Colden, and the Indian Pass are the most imposing features. From the head of Lake Henderson, by a good, ascending path, it is 2 m. N. W. to the noted Preston Ponds. These three secluded lakelets are set in the midst of the most impressive scenery. Those heaven aspiring pinnacles, Henderson, Santanoni, (corrupted from St. Anthony; Ind., Sinon-do-wan-ne, "Great Mountain,") Seward, (Ind., Ou kor-lah, "Great Eye,") Wallface, etc., stand on every 35* THE ADIRONDACK^. side in stern and solemn majesty. In our conversations with Mitchell Sabattis, he thus aptly and with aboriginal brevity expressed himself in reference to the section em- bracing Lakes Sanford and Henderson and the Preston Ponds. "It is a wild looking place; mountains thick all around you. Any one who don't want to see them must look right straight up !" These ponds vary from ^ to i m, in length, are only some 20 r. apart and are connected by unnavigable inlets. They are especially famed as trout resorts. The distance ADIKONDACK OR INDIAN PASS. from them to Mt. Seward is about 8 m. N. W. Cold River, their outlet, is tributary to the Raquette, some 12 or 15 m. distant. Several miles below the Ponds, it flows through a canon which is a remarkable piece of scenery. Quite a distance N. E. of this place, is White Cedar Pond. The Adirondack, or Indian Pass (Ind., Da-yoh jega go, "place of the Stonish Giants, where the storm clouds meet in battle with the Great Serpent.") 5 m. N. E. of the Iron Works, is more readily accessible from this locality than from any other habitable point. The well-beaten pathway leading to it from the head of Lake Henderson, and THE INDIAN PASS. 353 reached with boat, is traveled without much exertion ; but the examination of the gorge is toilsome enough. We do not pause here to describe fully this, "splendid wonder,"this great natural phenomenon. Headley, Street, Watson, and other brilliant writers, have so often and so worthily celebrated its marvels that no further testimony in its behalf is needed, at our hands. Enough to say that it is a tremendous defile 10 to 15 rods wide, formed by the sloping. heights of Mt. Mclntyre and the perpendicular precipices of Wallface Mountain uplifted to an altitude of TREES ON BOULDERS, INDIAN PASS. 500 to 1,400 ft. and extending about 1 mile. Its floor is thickly strewn with enormous masses of rocks, on which the interlacing roots of trees frequently grasp the scanty soil like monster-talons.* These have been hurled into it from the impending cliffs, probably by the throes of an earthquake, as within the memory of Mitchell Sabattis this region has been shaken by one of those terrible convul- sions. — [Lossing.] Yawning caverns have thus been crea- * One ol these boulders, ol quadrangular form, measured 43 ft. in length, 41 In width and 35 In height, and had an estimated weight of 10,000,000 Ids. or 5,000 tons ; and there are hundreds of others of nearly equal size. 354 THE ADIRONDACKS. ted where solid ice exists throughout the year and whose gloomy depths, seldom penetrated by the rays of the sun, have sufficient capacity for sheltering a thousand men. Awful in its vastness, supreme in its sublimity, it is difficult to imagine any scene at once more terrible in its silence, more chaotic in its desolation, more savage in its magnifi- cence. Here side by side, 2,937 ft. above tide-water, the noble Hudson* and the impetuous Ausable are infant- twins in the same rough cradle f The first issuing hencf, passes through Henderson and Sanford Lakes and rolls onward in its passage of beauty and grandeur to the broad Atlantic. The other setting out on its more romantic and not less beautiful career, frequently sweeping along with the irresis- tible power of an avalanche, at last finds its resting place in the bosom of the comely Champlain % The 3 Scott Ponds, the highest sources of Ausable River, lie near the summit of Mt. Wallface. These remote, sequestered, and well-nigh inaccessible tarns, lying like jewels on the mountain's brow, are entirely unknown to the general traveler. Robert Scott, their discoverer, told Alfred B. Street, the "Poet of the Forest," that they send streams into the St. Lawrence via Cold River and the Raquette, into Lake Champlain by the Ausable, and the Atlantic by the Hudson. The largest is about % m. long. From the head of Indian Pass the trail, frequently skirt- ing the fretful Ausable, leads to Adirondack Lodge (Clear Lake) 6 m. distant, whence Lake Placid (g}4 m.), Moun- tain View House, (5^ m.), Cascade Lake House, (gj£ m.), etc., are reached by roads. (See pp. 319, 322.) Mt. Marcy is also accessible from the "Works" by a path leading N. E ; distance 12 m. Calamity Pond (5 m.) and Lake Colden (7 m), distinguished for their great elevations and for the wild and majestic scenery that encompasses them, are passed on the way. •Named In honor of its discoverer, Henry Hudson. Ind., Co-ho-ta-le-a, "River 01 the Mountains." "Those peaks where fresh the Hudson takes His tribute from an hundred lakes." t It is said that a panther may place his hind feet In the spring-source of the Ausable, and lap water from the Hudson. t Near the summit of the Pass, (Point Looleovt,) will be found a large rock which shelves upward 10 or 12 ft., forming a comfortable shelter. XI O g c 2 3 H o ■n S H H > > C ASCENDING TAHAWUS. AVALANCHE LAKE. 355 Calamity Pond ! A melancholy interest is attached to this secluded little tarn from its having been the scene of the death of the unfortunate Henderson. And it was suit- ably named from that sad event. In this remote place, amid these more than Alpine solitudes, a unique and beau- tiful monument has been erected whose inscription tells thus its brief but touching story : — "Erected by filial affec- tion to the memory of -our dear father, David Henderson, who accidentally lost his life on this spot, by the premature discharge of a pistol, 3d Sept. 1845." "How often has the wild wolf made his lair beside it I How often the savage panther glared at its beautiful pro- HENDERSON MONUMENT, CALAMITY POND. — portions and wondered what object met his blazing eye- balls .'"—[Street.] Lake Colden (Ind., Ta-wis-ta-a, "The Mountain Cup,"} is a noble sheet, graceful in contour, environed by the grand ramparts of Clinton, Colden and other stately towers, and by green forests unscorched by fire, untouched by axe. A large cabin has been erected here for the use and comfort of tourists en route to the mountains. Avalanche Lake (Ind., Ta-ne-o-dah-eh, "Lofty Lake,") lies i}4 m. N. of Lake Colden. Mt. Mclntyre, (Ind., Hen- oga,- "Home of the Thunderer,") uplifts its towering and 356 THE ADIRONDACK^. sometimes perpendicular heights from the western shore. Mt. Colden (Ind., Ou-no-war-lah, "Scalp Mountain,"*) rises precipitously from its waters, on the opposite side, and is nearly bisected from top to bottom by an enormous trap- dyke ; forming with the imposing surroundings, a picture of weird and rugged grandeur. It is one of the most im- pressive scenes in the Adirondacks. LAKE COLDEN. A trail passing along the western shore of , Avalanche, leads to Adirondack Lodge, (Clear Lake), 5 m. distant. •Lakes Colden and Avalanche now connected by a stream were originally one body of water. But years ago a tremendous avalanche swept down the steep cliffs of Mt. Colden, thoroughly "scalping" Its side, and creating two lakes from one. Under the rays of the sun, the track of this land-slide glit- ters like snow. Avalanche L. Is S6 ft. higher than Colden. Its altitude Is 2,856 ft.; that of L. Colden, 2,770 ft. They are the highest tafcp-sources of Hudson Elver. Lake-Tear-of-the-Clouds and Moss Lake are the most lofty jiontf-sources. There are no fish In Avalanche Lake. THE OPALESCENT, ASCENT OF TAHAWUS. 357 (See p. 323). At one place the frowning precipice has forced the path to the very water's edge ; but there, a floating log, securely fastened, offers a safe passage to the pedestrian. Leaving Lake Colden, whose outlet immediately enters the Opalescent, we follow, for a large portion of the route, the windings of this wild mountain tor- rent; frequently crossing ing it on some of the many boulders that break itssuiface. And was ever a translucent stream more richly tinted or more fitly named ? Its rocky bed glitters with crystals of that many-hued and most beautiful mineral, opales- cent feldspar, which "kin- dles this liquid, diamond into the peacock's neck in hue." Soon we reach the no- ted "Flume,"(2 m. from L. Colden), where the river has forced a passage through a narrow cleft in the rocks, extending more than a mile, forming a spectacle of intensely ab- sorbing interest. The cas- cade of the Flume (50 ft.) (inexpressibly charming) the Indians styled : She-gwien daw kwe, "the Hanging Spear"; and the boisterous rapids a few rods above, Kas- kong-sha-di, "Broken Water.' * * On the Opalescent, 4 m. below the Flume, and 2 m. S. of L. Colden, oc- curs a succession of waterfalls, from SO to 100ft. high, of the most lovelj' de- scription. OPALESCENT FALLS AND FLLTME. 35 8 THE ADIRONDACKS. Near this point the trail diverges to the right from the old-time route, and follows, perhaps i m., the course of Feldspar Brook, the outlet of the lonely pool, Lake Tear, which anon is reached. From the camp, not far away, a half-mile scramble completes the ascent. Distance from Lake Colden, 5 m. (See pp. 310, 311, 325.) Of the glories awaiting the beholder at the summit of Tahawus we need not speak. As with the Indian Pass so with the mighty monarch of the cloud region. Most of our readers have acquired sufficient familiarity with the gorge- ous panorama here unfolded, from perusing the fascinating descriptions given by the writers already named. The district embracing Upper Iron Works* Indian Pass, Clear Lake, Keene Valley, Ausable Lakes and Elk Lake, may well be regarded as the"H£ART of the Adirondacks." Here the mountains rise with a height and grandeur else- where uhequaled in the region. Here we have the most magnificent grouping of the noble giants of the whole range, f [The Newcomb district is described under head of Route Twenty -ninth; that of Long Lakh under heading of the Raquette Waters] Twenty-seventh —Crown Point, at the mouth of Putnam's Creek, 2 m. S. of Port Henry, and 18 m. S. of Westport, was the site of important military operations during the French and Revolutionary wars. The ruins of the old fort, 6 m. N., and those of the fortress of Ticonderoga 9 m. S.; also "Put's Oak," \% m. W., are frequently visited by tourists as interesting objects of national history. (See p. 217). The Lake House, with its delightful situation, is a popular place of sojourn for transient visitors. Crown Point is the E. terminus of the "Old State Road" commencing at Carthage, 134 m. distant. (See p. 127.) This route becomes identical with that leading from Port Henry, at "Root's," Schroon River. (See p. 340). * In several of his poems, the eminent poet, Hoffman, has woven Into beautiful verse charming legends of this locality. t These lofty elevations are supposed by scientists to he the oldest land on the globe, or the first that appeared above the waters. OUTLET OF PYRAMID LAKE. PARADOX LAKE. CROWN POINT. PARADOX LAKE. 359 From Crown Point by C. P. & I. Railroad to Ham- mondsville, 12 m. (passing Penfield and Knob Ps. S.) fare 60 cts.; thence, daily stage to head of Paradox Lake, 4 m.; fare, $1.15; Schroon Lake, 9 m.; fare, $2.10. Total dis- tance, 25 m. A correspondent of the Essex County Republican writes that arrangements have been perfected for rapid transit over the C. P. and I. R. R. Trains with palace coaches will connect with the afternoon train from New York at Crown Point, and convey passengers to Schroon Lake, via Ironville and Hammondville, in time for supper. Few persons beyond the vicinity are acquainted with this most picturesque route from Lake Champlain to the mountains, and nature's most perfect, scenery, ever-changing into greater surprises, with views of hill, dale, and massive rocks, and passing through the mining village on the heights of . Hammondville. From there through varied scenery along akes Paradox and Schroon, winding around the hills, the tallyho coach will make fast time to its pleasant destination. This will be the shortest and quickest route from Saratoga and points East. The Summit House, convenient to the depot at Ham- mondville, will be in readiness for tourists. Paradox Lake (4^ x }£) is so near the level of its out- let, Schroon River, that in seasons of freshets, the water flows into instead out of it ; hence its very suitable name. At fuch times boats pass down into Schroon Lake. Para- dox is a beautiful sheet, (really two lakes connected by narrows,) with pebbly beaches indented by miniature bays, and surrounded by rocky and enchanting shores ; and offering fair mountain views in nearly every direction. It yields no trout, but bass and pickerel are abundant. The Paradox House, situated on the S. shore (midway) is a pleasant resting-place, and is famed for its trout din- dinners. (P. O., Schroon Lake, N. Y.) Pyramid or Belleview Lake, 1 % m. S. of Paradox L., is noted for its wild and beautiful scenery. This liquid tur- quois — engirdled by densely wooded peaks — is placed in the midst of a circlet of gleaming lakelets imbedded in the emerald and virgin forests. 360 THE ADIRONDACKS. In the vicinity are Bum Pond, N.; Long, Rock and Goose-Neck Ponds, E.; Putnam Pond, S. E.; Crane and Crab Ponds, and Pharaoh Lake, S., (the latter, 4 J^ m.); and Goose, and Gull Ponds, S- W. In addition to these waters, cliff, chasm, and cascade lend their picturesque charms to the neighborhood. Pyramid Lake House, a well-kept establishment, offers good accommodations, with all the requisites, to 100 guests. The lake is noted for its fine trout and bass fishing, and as it is private property, is held for the exclusive use of its patrons. It is a quiet, home-like and desirable summer- resort. (P. O , Paradox, N. Y.) Schroon Lake is a beautiful sheet and contests with Lake George for the title of "the Como of America." It is 9^ m. in length, and varies from J£ to 2 m. in width. Its designation is said by Lossing to be a corruption of "Scar- ron," the original name given to the lake and river. It received the appellation from a French officer, a young Count, who, with several companions, all stationed at Fort St. Frederick at Crown Point, visited it on a hunting ex- cursion in those early days, and christened it thus, in honor of the celebrated Madame de Maintenon, wife of the poet Scarron, who became morganatic queen of Louis XIV. Others say it is a corruption of the Indian word Sca-ni-a- da-roon, "a large lake," or of Scarona, the name of an In- dian girl who leaped over a precipice from her French lover and was drowned. Some claim it is derived from the Adi- rondack word Rogh qua non dago, signifying "Child of the Mountain." — [Street.] The western slopes of this miniature sea are clothed with sunny meadows and waving grain, interspersed with isolated trees. But the eastern shores are forest-clad and often rise with surprising abruptness from the water's edge. A curious phenomenon occurs in this lake. Inflammable gas in large quantities rises to its surface, and in the winter, through openings in the ice, it issues in large volume, which, when ignited, produces a brilliant flame many feet in height. Isola Bella ("Island Beautiful"; Indian, Cay-wa-noot,) gem- ming its bosom at the N. end, the site of the summer- V ■< > 2 > m SCHROON LAKE. ISOLA BELLA. 361 residence of the family of the late Col. Bayard Clark, of New York, is one of the loveliest retreats on the continent. After the death of the original proprietor, Col. A. L. Ire- land, (a descendant of Sir John de Ireland, a Norman bar- on who accompanied William the Conqueror to England, and fought with him at the battle of Hastings, — Lossing,) the spot was abandoned for several years. At that time, when we visited the place, it seemed like a deserted castle in an enchanted wood ; but the present owners have restored it to its former condition, and improved it still further by beautifying the villa and the surrounding grounds — now bright with a thousand flowers. Near the head of the lake, on the north-western shore, delightfully overlooking its broad expanse, is the pleasant, and quiet, but flourishing village that bears its name. The streets are handsomely laid out and the place contains a number of large stores and pretty churches of the principal sects. A bright, laughing streamlet dancing its way through the little town, serves to increase its attractions. The hotel accommodations at Schroon Lake are not only equal to those of most of the famous watering-places, but the terms are far more reasonable. Here may be found Newport luxuries unaccompanied by Newport prices. It is a matter of no astonishment then, that this fascinating locality should be extensively sought by admirers of balmy air, landscape beauty, sporting facilities and elegant quar- ters. We will name first those located in the village. The Ondawa has long been known for the convenience of its arrangements, the excellence of its table, and the courtesy of the proprietors. "The old favorite," has kept pace with the improvements of the time and been modern- ized to meet the present demands. Its handsome grounds, shaded by stately elms and maples, embrace several acres, and are bounded on two sides by the lake. Its 300 ft. of piazzas front upon the park. It offers a desirable home to the summer- visitor. Capacity, 100. The Lake House, E. of the Ondawa, has a charming sit- uation near the steamboat landing. It is well arranged, commodious, anci suitaoiy lurriishecl. A'fl necessary com- forts are provided without offensive display. It is a very 31 362 THE ADIRONDACKS. pleasing resort for those who desire to spend a few weeks on the shores of the lake. It receives 60 guests. The Leland House, a large and admirable edifice, stands on a prominent bluff at the eastern extremity of the village. Nothing could be more fortunate in the way of a site; and to the beauty of its position, the place doubtless owes much of its popularity as a summer-resort. It com- mands a bewitching view .of the lake from three sides of the building, some of the grandest of the Adirondack Mountains from the other, and the exquisite scenery of the Schroon Valley in either direction. It has a magnificent frontage of 162 feet facing south, across which and the eastern end of the building extends a grand piazza 22 feet high, 13 feet wideband 346 feet long, overlooking the lake. The observatory of the house, 107 feet above the water, affords a prospect not surpassed by many in the Adiron- dacks, which region contains few lakes more lovely than the Schroon. The grounds, embracing 6 acres, and ex- tending to the shores on the south and east, are beauti- fully laid out, and adorned with evergreen-trees, shaded lawns, flower-beds, shrubbery and fountains. A fine ten- nis-court, walks and drives gracefully winding in different directions, and several rustic summer-houses add much to the attractiveness. Every kind of diversion and exercise may be enjoyed. The Leland, since its first season, has been several times enlarged and improved to meet the requirements of its increasing business. Thus it has become, in its every appointment, a marvel of excellence and completeness. Its reputation is so well established it is unnecessary to enter into full details. The traveler may rest assured that all the appliances that go to make a first-class, modern hotel have been provided here. It is the rendezvous of prominent people from many sections, and an atmosphere of comfort, convenience and refinement pervades the place. The culinary department is in charge of an experienced steward and caterer, and the table is bountifully supplied with the substantials, delicaces and luxuries of the season. Vegetables and milk from the Leland House farm. Nu- merous liveries and boats, two lake steamers, post, express SCHROON LAKE. LELAND HOUSE. 363 and telegraph offices, the stores and churches of the village, good roads and drives and new walks for pedestrians, and the charms of the surrounding country, afford the pleasures of rural and forest life combined with modern social con- veniences and religious services, and offer unusual attrac- tions to all in search of health and enjoyment during the summer. It accommodates, with its several cottages, nearly 300 guests. The Windsor, W. of the Leland, has many attractive characteristics and is worthy of commendation. Capacity, 60. Among the several boarding-houses, all pleasantly situ- ated in the village, are Arlington Cottage, capacity, 35; Leland Cottage, 30; and Prospect House, 35. The Grove Point House is picturesquely situated on a promontory on the W. shore of the lake, J^ m. S. of the village. It has spacious verandas extending 300 ft. and affording the usual delightful outlooks. It has many at- tractions and is entitled to high recommendation. It is handsomely and commodiously furnished, and managed with the liberality that its patronage demands. Capacity, 100. (P. O ., Schroon Lake., N. Y.\ Steamers touch at the landing six times daily. Watch Rock Hotel is nearly 6 m. S. of the village, on the eastern shore of the lake. The location is upon a commanding eminence within a grand reservation of the primeval forest, and in close proximity to the legendary "Watch Rock," to which a good walk extends along the border of the water. It commands an extensive view of the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. Upon the S. W. and N. charming vistas have been opened, look- ing out upon the lake in the foreground, the adjacent hills, valleys and wilderness, and the rugged sides and towering pinnacles of the Adirondacks and other mountains in the distance. The summit of Mt. Marcy, and others of note, can be seen from the observatory of the house. From Park's Mt , distant 2 m., the scenery is unsurpassed, including views of Mts. Marcy, Mclntyre, Colden, Skylight, Pharaoh, Dix's Peak, Nipple Top and many other lesser peaks, and seven 364 THE ADIRONDACK^. beautiful lakes. S. the Catskills, and E. the snow-capped summit of Mt. Washington are plainly visible. This elegant hotel, the liberal and rapidly increasing patronage of which has hitherto demanded its utmost capacity, has been recently enlarged, and in connection with the several cottages, placed on the beautifully shaded grounds, has now ample accommodations for 125 guests. The rooms are large and airy, — many of ihem arranged en suite for families wishing to spend the summer. The cui- sine is excellent, and one of the most noted mountain- springs in the region supplies the house constantly with the purest water. Large sums have been expended in im- proving the grounds, which embrace 15 acres. Situated in the midst of lofty peaks, no purer atmosphere can be found. The nights are deliciously cool and the temperature uniformly agreeable. The place is free from mosquitoes and all other insect pests. The drives are fine in all directions, and suitable turn- outs are furnished at moderate rates. Direct telegraphic communication; two daily mails; sail and row boats; music and dancing, and all the usual diversions are enjoyed in the fullest degree. No more acceptable "Tourists' Home" can be found in the whole line of travel. (P. O , Adiron- dack, N. Y.). There is a little hamlet here commonly called Mill Brook. The fine cottages of Geo. W. Cotterill, Judge John J. Freedman, Judge John K. Porter, and other New Yorkers are near the hotel. Route to Mill Brook: — Adirondack R. R., from Saratoga to Riverside, 50 m.; thence 6 m. in Leavitt's Concord coaches to Pottersville ; thence to Schroon L., 1 m ; thence by steamer Gypsy or Effingham, 4 m. to Watch Rock Land- ing. From Watch Rock Hotel it is 1 m. to Trout Brook; 3 m. to Valentine Pond (1 x yi)\ 2 m. to Biederman's Bay; 6 m. to Lake Pharaoh; 6 m. to Friend's Lake; 7 m. to Loon Lake; 5 m. to Brant Lake; 5 m. to Pottersville; 11 m. to Riverside; 9 m. to Chestertown; and 7 m. to Natural Bridge. SCHROON LAKE. TAYLOR HOUSE. 365 The Taylor House is on the W. side of the lake, opposite Mill Brook. Embosomed in a grove of native pines, it stands on an imposing bluff, styled Lake View Point, elevated ioo ft. above the level of the lake, into which it picturesquely extends. Closely adjacent are 15 or 20 neat and tasteful cottages, offering pleasant and home-like accommodations to guests. The table is supplied with the products of a large farm connected with the premises. The prospect from "Taylor Villa" is one of the most charming that this section affords. To the N. E. and S. stretch away the fair waters of the lake; N. and S. the beauteous Schroon Valley for scores of miles is in view, and in the N.W. many of the most majestic peaks of the Adirondack Range, including Marcy, greet the eye. The beautiful and well- shaded grounds, are threaded by a mile of board-walks, and offer delightful promenades. They are illuminated in the evening by electric lights, and afford the usual out-door amusements. Telegraph and post-office (" Taylor's-on-Schroon ") in the house. The traveler will find here every necessary comfort and con- venience and an admirably conducted establishment. The proprietors are untiring in their attention to guests. The quiet restfulness of the place is one of its marked features. It is very popular as a family-hotel and commands large patronage. Though Taylor's may be reached by carriage from the N. or S., the steamers offer the best and cheapest mode of transit, as they land semi-daily. Routes the same as those to Watch Rock Hotel. 'Has capacity for 180. Nor is this locality deficient in attractions of another kind. To the sportsman it offers an interesting and not overworked field ; and he as well as other pleasure-seekers will find enough to occupy his time while tarrying here. Schroon Lake itself is richly stocked with bass and trout — the latter of unusual size. Other kinds of fish are also taken in great numbers. Days and weeks may be pleasant- ly passed in visiting the various waters, including those mentioned at Mill Brook, that lie in the neighborhood. The principal of these we will name : — Goose Pond (70 acres), 2 ^ m. N. E. of the village, is remarkable for the marvelous clearness and purity of its waters, surpassing in this respect, it is claimed, those of 366 THE ADIRONDACKS. Lake George, which, it is known, have been employed as "holy water." Crane Pond (i^ x ^), y 2 m. N. E. of Goose Pond, furnishes an abundance of pickerel, some of them attaining a weight of 25 or 30 lbs. Crab Pond is about 2 m. S. E. of Crane Pond. Gull Pond (12 acres), is perhaps the same distance S. W. of Goose Pond. Lake Pharaoh (2 x 3/s) (Ind., Onnis-ske, "White, or Silver Lake,") long but very narrow, is 6 m. E. of the vil- lage, and laves, with its crystal waters, the base of Mt. Pharaoh, (Ind , On-de-wa, "Black or Bluebeard Mountain,") and other stately masses surrounding it.* Desolate Pond is passed en route. From the summit of Mt. Pharaoh, which rises almost perpendicularly from the waters of the lake, the view is simply superb. One m. S. of this is Whortleberry Pond (35 acres). Spring Hill Pond is near Lake Pharaoh. A white deer was killed there several years ago. Lizard Pond is about 3 m. S. E. of Pharaoh. Brant Lake (5 x 3-5) lies 9 to n m. S. E. of the village. Bartlett's Pond (15 acres), W. of the village, and Rogers' Pond {1% x iyi), and Little Rogers' P., likewise W. 3 m. furnish fine trouting. North of these waters 5^ m., is North Pond (5^ x %). Deer-hunting is excellent at most of these resorts, especi- ally at Goose and Gull Ponds, where hunters seldom fail to meet with success. They are all easily reached by good roads or paths. The necessary equipments for sporting expeditions are furnished by the principal hotels. As Schroon Lake has a very picturesque country-environ- ment, the drives about the place are rich in interest and variety. Among the most popular of these are the follow- ing: •A vast tract In this vicinity, Including- Lake Pharaoh, forming a grand private preserve, is owned by the " Schroon Lake magnate," Mr. Wllhelm Plckhavdt ot New York. EXCURSIONS FROM SCHROON LAKE. 367 MILES. Schroon Lake Village to foot of Paradox Lake, $}4 " Schroon Falls, . . 5 " S Schroon (Taylor House), 3% " Alder Meadow, . 4 " Mt. Severance, . 2^ " Mt. Hoffman, . 5 " " " Charley Hill, . 4^ " Schroon River (" Roots "), 9 Charley Hill, an elevation of 700 ft., affords fine views. In the round trip (9 m.) the ride is so varied that the same ground is passed over but once. By varying the trip to Paradox L., and traveling 10 m. instead of 7, only 2 m. of the route are passed over twice. These rides, especially the two last named, offer a series of the most beautiful views. Several neighboring mountains are visited from Schroon. Mt. Hoffman, (Blue Ridge) 5 m. N. near the route to " Roots," is frequently ascended and at the cost of but little exertion, as there is a bridle path to the summit, 4 m. and one can drive 2 m. The view is superb. Mt. Severance, 2% to.. N., T 4 m. from the road to " Roots," is ascended with carriage. Mt. Marcy, Dix's Peak and Hunter's Pass are also visited via Schroon River and Elk Pond, (the road diverging 1. J^ m. S. of " Roots "). (See p. 340). Schroon Lake Village as noted before is conveniently reached from Lake Champlain by R. R. from Crown Point to Hammondville (12 m.); thence daily line of excellent coaches (13 m.); fare, $2.10. It is more often visired from Saratoga Springs, via Adirondack R. R. to Riverside (50 m.; fare, $2.00); thence by Leavitt's Concord coaches to Pottersville, (6 m.; fare, %i 00 to Schroon Lake); thence to the lake, nearly 1 m.; thence through the lake, 9 m. by the steamer Gypsy or Effiingham, making two trips daily each way, and touching at every resort. Fare, 75 cts. Strenuous efforts are being made to secure the construction of a branch railroad from Riverside to Schroon Lake. A tiny steam-yacht descends the outlet (Schroon River; Ind , Gain-bou-a-gwe, "Crooked 368 THE ADIRONDACKS. River,") 5 m. to Starbuckville, where we find another pleasant resort, " Sunnyside." The "Great Northern Highway," starting from Moreau and Fort Edward, skirts the margin of Schroon Lake, pass- ing through Pottersville, Schroon Lake Village, Schroon River ("Roots," p. 340), (9 m..) Elizabethtown, (32 m.,) and terminating at Keeseville (54 m ). Stages run in either direction. The ride is a delightful one, especially over that portion of the route embraced by the Schroon and Bouquet Valleys. (See pp. 286, 288, 340). Twenty- eighth : — Fort Ticonderoga (Ind., Che-on-de- roga, " where the waters meet"; or Ti-aonta-ro-ken, "a point between two lakes "), 24 m. N. of Whitehall, which was the scene of a celebrated Revolutionary conflict familiar to every American and around which cluster recollections of many ancient and modern heroes, is a delightful point of entrance to Lake George (R. R. to Baldwin near foot of the lake, 4^ m.; fare, 75 cts.; see p. 217*), as well as to the Great Wilderness. Mt. Defiance is a prominent object in the surrounding landscape. Pavilion Hotel, situated on the shore of the lake, is a charming resort. (See p. 215). From Fort Ticonderoga to Long Pond (2^ x %), (Ind., Quinebaug, "long pond"), an excellent fishing locality, it is nj^ m.; thence to Paradox Lake i]4 m; Schroon Lake, 9 m. Total, 22 m. From Paradox Lake to Schroon River ("Root's"), 10 m. Thence the route has already been given. (See p. 340). Twenty-ninth : — From Fort Edward, D. & H. Branch R. R. to Glens Falls, 5 m.; fare, 20 cts ; Caldwell (head of Lake George), 10 m.; fare, 95 cts.; stage thence to Chester- town, 18 m ; fare, $2.25 ; Riverside (on Adirondack R. R.) 5 m.; fare, $3.00. Total distance, 28 m. (See Route Thirtieth) Fort Edward, on the D. & H. R R., is a prosperous village, finely situated on Hudson River. It has great historical celebrity. Near this place, in 1777, occurred one of the saddest events named in American annals, viz : — * The railroad, about midway Its length, passes through the nourishing village of Ticonderoga. JANE MCCREA. GLENS FALLS. 369 the killing of Jane McCrea, a captive in the hands of the Indians.* Baker's Falls, on the Hudson, i y^ m. above the village, will richly repay a visit. Glens Falls, (Rockwell's Hotel) a very important town, possesses great beauty of situation and immense manufac- turing interests. Here the Hudson pours its impetuous tide over a steep ledge of black rock 63 feet high, forming a scene which approaches the sublime. When the island below the falls was peopled with Cooper's imaginative characters, the spot must have been wild and romantic in the extreme. But from the stern exactions of commerce, has resulted a radical change. Mill-owners have usurped the enormous water-privilege the stream affords; and now general utility, and not romance prevails. Quarries of black marble, highly prized for its freedom from fl.iws, and limestone are extensively worked in the neighborhood. Leaving Glens Falls, the scenery increases in interest as we pass along, making considerable pretension to wildness and beauty. Hills of moderate height rise around us and in the distance are seen, in exquisite coloring, the lofty Green Mts. of Vt. Wooded ravines and sparkling cascades, occasionally lend additional charms to the journey. We are now traveling over historic ground. We pass Col. Williams' monument on the left, and Bloody Pond on the right, the scene of the terrible engagement in 1755, between the English and French with their Indian allies, resulting in the death of the gifted Williams and the noble " King Hendrick," the renowned orator and warrior of the Six Nations.f Suddenly, like a beautiful vision, is revealed to * The Indians, with their prisoner lashed to the back'of a horse, were flee- ing before a detachment of American soldiers, when a volley was fired by the pursuers which did no harm to the red men, but accidentally killed Miss McCrea. The savages, true to their barbarous custom, scalped their lovely captive, while her body was quivering in the throes of death. Immediately afterwards they displayed their gory trophy— the long, black, and silken tresses of the unfortunate maiden— to her affianced lover, and the terrible experience rendered him partiaUy insane for the remainder of his life. t It is said that Joseph Brant (Thavendanegea) the celebrated Mohawk Chief, then a mere lad of 13, took, in this battle, his first lesson in the art of war, and at the commencement "trembled like an aspen leaf"; but during the progress of the conflict, he regained his composure, and fought bravely to the end. Bloody Pond commemorates by Its name this sanguinary battle. The bodies of nearly 1,000 of the slain, mostly Frenchmen, found, In its dark, weird and sequestered waters, a dreary sepulchre. 37° THE ADIRONDACKS. the enraptured eye the gleaming silver of the queen of American waters, Lake George ; with its rocky and verdure- draped islands, its bold and delightful shores, its forest-clad and majestic mountains — one sweep of enchant- ing beauty, "where all that's grand, with all that's sweet, entwine." " Loch Katrine, at the Trosachs, is a miniature likeness of Lake George. It is the only lake in Europe that has the same style or degree of beauty. The small green is- lands with their abrupt shores — the emerald depths of the water, overshadowed and tinted by the tenderest moss and foliage — the lofty mountains in the background — and the tranquil character of the lake, over which the wind is ar- rested and rendered powerless by the peaks of the hills, and the lofty island summits, are all points of singular resemblance. Loch Katrine can scarcely be called pictur- esque however, except at the Trosachs; while Lake George throughout all the mazes of its three hundred and sixty- five islands,* preserves the same wild and racy character of beauty. Varying in size from a mile in length, to the circumference of a tea-table, these little islets present the most multiplied changes of surface and aspect — upon some only moss and flowers, upon others a miniature forest, with its outer trees leaning over to the pellucid bosom of the lake, as if drawn downwards by the reflection of their own luxuriant beauty. " Nor is it alone the ever varying splendor of the lake, made classic by the struggles of <.ur colonial wars, and by the pen of our great romancer, that claims the admiring eye of the wondering stranger. Hidden in the shadows of the forest are the lodges of a lingering remnant of the once mighty tribe of Mohicans, who here, where echoed the triumphant war-whoop of their forefathers, now win a precarious life by practicing the simple arts of 'the gentle savage.' Yet, though the tears of many years of sorrow have washed all traces of the war-paint from their cheeks, and the tomahawk that struck their Mingo foes has long since been buried in the dust, the birch canoes of the * Said to be Just that number,— It all the rocky ledges are Included,— one lor each day In the year. All but IT are owned by the State. > o w o ■o > > a on m CO > ■< LAKE GEORGE. 37 I children of the Lenni Lenape still dance at evening o'er the bosom of the ' Horicon,' and the skill of Uncas gleams in the flight of their unerring Indian arrow." — (NT. P. Willis). Lake George has received as many as seven different names, some of which were more appropriate than the one finally adopted. The Aborigines who first peopled its shores, styled it An di-ata-roc-ti, and Ka-nordo ro, " the place where the lake narrows, contracts or shuts itself ;" also Cani-de-ri-oit, "the tail of the lake," doubtless regard- ing it as an appendage to Lake Champlain. In 1646, just four years after he discovered it,* the devout Father Jogues, first missionary of the Iroquois, reached it the second time with his companions on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi. Then, when, "like a fair Naiad of the Wilderness, it slumbered between the guardian mountains that breathe from crag and forest the stern poetry of war," he named it Lac du St. Sacrement, " the Lake of the Blessed Sacrament," in honor of the day ; and it is still known to the Catholics by that appellation. Its waters, on account of their remarkable purity and trans- parency, were carried by them great distances for baptismal purposes. Its secluded situation, once far aside from the great thoroughfares of travel, long assisted to preserve its sacredness of character. In 1745. the French General, Devillers, called it "Lake St. Laurent." Sir Wm. Johnson, in 1755, while flaunting the red cross of England before the lily of France, gave it, in compliment to the reigning sovereign, George II, f the. name by which it has since been recognized ; although the Indian title of Horicon, signify- ing " Silvery Water," bestowed upon it by Cooper, and redolent of fitness and euphony, should certainly be re- stored. % •"First of white men, Jogues and his associates gazed on the romantic lake that bears the name, not of its gentle discoverer, but of the dull Hanoverian king."— (Pakkman). It is claimed by some historians that Champlain penetrated to Lake George between 1609 and 1613, and hence was the first white man to visit its shores. t" I am building a Fort at this Lake where no house was ever before built nor a rod of land cleared, which the French call Lake St. Sacrament; but I have given it the name of Lake George, not only in honor to His Majesty but to ascertain his undoubted Dominion here."— fSiB Wm. Johnson]. t Named from the Indian tribe, "Les Hortcans," once inhabiting the bordering forest. 372 THE ADIRONDACKS. Its length is 34 m., its width 1 to 4 m., and it enters Lake Champlain through its outlet {"Sounding Water") by a descent of 150 ft. near the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, about 4 m. distant. (See p. 215). The scenery and the real and traditional history of this section are alike attractive. Perhaps no other locality in this country, so richly abounds in natural loveliness and historical interest combined. " Each mountain, precipice, and cape has its own tales and reminiscences of the olden time. Some of the fiercest conflicts of the last long wars between the French and English colonists took place upon it shores, and the pure and peaceful waters of this lovely lake were often ensanguined with the blood of fierce com- batants. Again, during the Revolution, war held high carnival; but since that period its visitors have been prin- cipally the lovers of the wild and beautiful in nature." The recounting of those thrilling events, too numerous for the scope of this work, come within the province of the historian, not ours. (See p. 215). Caldwell, a quiet, tree- embowered village, nestles at the foot of Mt. Ferguson (Prospect) which rises from the head of the lake. It was named in compliment to Gen. Jas. Caldwell, once the principal proprietor, and a liberal benefactor. A road runs from the village to the summit of Prospect Mt., where the Mt. Ferguson House offers good entertain- ment, and almost incomparable views. Two elegant steamers, the Horicon and the Ticonderoga, owned by the Champlain Transportation Company, make two round trips daily, touching at all the landings. Fare, $2.00. At Baldwin, near the outlet, cars are taken for Fort Ticonderoga (4^ m.; fare, 75 c.) which closely connect with trains on the D. & H. R. R., or Steamer Vermont on Lake Champlain. (See p. 217). Leaving Caldwell in the trip down the lake, the lovely little islet, known as Tea Island first solicits our attention. The next is Diamond Island, deriving its name from the profusion of crystals formerly found upon it. The next important point is Long Island, the largest of all. Near the centre of the lake beyond, is Dome Island, recognized > > w > > m O m O o F-C'w K&r IPIS • ** V* ^ i Mr * IjfJ PHI 1 J r *v"~ 7 ' •''!■ *&£*& ' i pi H 1 JL •« Bi>; J "jj * *>"S^':: : - pwWv m - r f j fett^fe jg^rtM^yfe |rj* 1 j^ffSI ''.''I- ■ .# "'''-' ;v