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 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000339527 
 
(BVI8BD EDITION 
 
 PI^ICE 10 CE]4TS 
 
 ♦ + + 
 
 VEGETAebES 
 ROfXE 
 
 fi\?«'/i'>'3/>v; 
 
 W^ 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
VEGETABLES 
 
 rOE THE 
 
 HOME GARDEN. 
 
VEGETABLES 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 HOME GARDEN 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. 
 
 REVISED EDITION. 
 
 .y^Y 
 
 i 
 
 
 ¥ ' 
 
 «r 
 
 TPC 
 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 . ATLEE BURPEE & CO.. 
 
 PHII 
 
 .ADELP 
 
 HIA, 
 
Copyright, 1896 and 1911, by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 
 
 WM. F. FELL COMPANY 
 
 ELECTROTYPERS AND PfltNTERg 
 
 1220-24 SANSOM STREET 
 
 PHILADELPHrAjPA. 
 
PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. 
 
 Vegetables for the Home Garden was first pubKshed in 1896, 
 and while originally intended for the amateur or novice it has also 
 had a wide circulation among professional gardeners and truckers. 
 
 The text of the revised edition is practically the same, but nat- 
 urally some changes were necessary as to selection of varieties; 
 although while improved as to "quality of stock," many varieties 
 considered as standard fifteen years ago are just as popular as ever. 
 
 Occasionally the inexperienced planter may without a guide-book 
 of any kind be fairly successful in obtaining a bountiful supply of 
 fresh vegetables, but our experience in handling a large correspon- 
 dence is that there is a place for a handy manual giving in easily 
 understood language the best methods of cultivation. 
 
 W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 
 
 Revised at Fordhook Farfns, July, 1911. 
 
Vegetables for the Home Garden. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 LOCATION AND SOIL. 
 
 If there is any choice in the selection of location, choose level land 
 or that having a southerly or southeasterly slope. 
 
 High hills or woodlands on the north and v^est are an advantage at 
 once recognized hy the professional gardener, since the protection they 
 afford permits operations to begin a week or two earlier than on lands 
 where no natural shelters prevail. 
 
 For earliness, a warm sandy loam is to be preferred, but for the 
 general purposes of a home garden a rich, well drained loam, neither 
 sandy nor clayey, is the ideal type of soU. The richest natural soils 
 contain clay, sand, lime, and organic matters in due proportion, but 
 these are only to be found in a few favored localities. 
 
 Whatever the location and the character of the soil, a square or a 
 parallelogram is the most converdently shaped plot for garden opera- 
 tions. 
 
 Sandy Soils. — Sandy soils are early but ordinarily they lack fer- 
 tility and that absorptive power for moisture essential to prolonged 
 growth. We may render them capable of absorbing and retaining 
 moisture, carbonic acid, and all essential plant nutrients in two ways : 
 First, by mixing clay, which has this power, with the light sand, and 
 adding humus materials, like marsh mud, muck, or peat ; and, second, 
 by the use of land plaster, wood ashes, and marls, which increase 
 their capacity for absorbing moisture and exert a binding influence on 
 sands, just as lime and sand when mixed with water make mortar. 
 Such lands are dressed with land plaster, marl or wood-ashes, muck, 
 marsh mud, etc., and clover or other leguminous crops are sown, 
 
 7 
 
8 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 which in turn are plowed under for the purpose of growing more 
 valuable crops. For binding sandy and even drift soils, and for en- 
 riching them, red and crimson clover, cow peas, spurrey, vetches, etc., 
 are most valuable. 
 
 If a sandy soU is underlaid with clay at no great depth- it may be 
 dug up and thrown in small heaps or exposed in narrow ridges for a 
 year or more to the action of the atmosphere, or the day may be dug 
 out from some convenient clay pit and permitted to weather for a year 
 before use ; then it should be scattered ovetthe surface of the sand. 
 By continuing this treatment, and turning under green .crops, the soil 
 in a few years wUl be completely changed, and waste sands converted 
 into rich garden mold. 
 
 Such work is necessarily laborious, but it can be done at seasons 
 when no other farm work is possible ; it is both practical and profit- 
 able, and will repay the gardener for all his expenditure of time and 
 labor. 
 
 Clay Soils. — Soils in which clay predominates unless provided 
 with good drainage, which is rarely the case, are wet and cold, and 
 cannot be worked so early in the spring as those of a loamy or a 
 sandy character. If such soils have good natural or artificial drainage 
 their tilth may be further improved by a light covering of sand ap- 
 plied to the surface. In the case of the family garden this is a matter 
 of small expense, and the addition of fine, gritty sand will produce an 
 astonishing improvement in the productiveness of the land. 
 
 DRAINAGE. 
 
 A stiff, cold, and wet day is quickly and permanently improved 
 by drainage. In the field or garden, drainage does for the land what 
 the hole in the bottom of the flower-pot does for the soil contained 
 within it. It provides an outlet for surplus water, and a means of 
 ingress for the air. Without this means of escape superfluous moisture 
 would accumulate in the pot, no air would be admitted to the earth, 
 and the water would become stagnant, rendering the soil unfit for the 
 plant to thrive or even live in. 
 
 By drainage the soil is rendered less cold and moist, aeration takes 
 place, the land becomes warmer, is better able to retain heat, and 
 evaporation at the surface, which is continuously cooling off the sur- 
 face soil, is greatly reduced. A drained garden or field is not only 
 warmer but is in a better physical or mechanical condition for retain- 
 ing warmth, and consequently it admits of earlier cultivation. An- 
 other important advantage of drainage is that on the approach of cold 
 
DRAINAGE. 9 
 
 weather plants are less liable to be kUled or thrown out of the ground 
 by freezing. Well-drained, deeply tilled soils will, also, stand drought 
 much better, for being relieved of redundant moisture, the roots of 
 plants penetrate freely to greater depths. In the early period of 
 growth there is a rapid development of the root-system, and if too 
 much moisture is present at this time, a vigorous extension of these 
 organs is checked and growth confined to the upper soil. In case of 
 drought later in the season plants will not be able to reach down 
 through the soil for food and moisture. ' In a well-drained and properly 
 tilled soil a crop does not suffer from an impaired root system, nor is 
 the soil so deficient in moisture in dry seasons. Drainage permits 
 free access of air to the soil, without which the nitric bacteria, — the 
 microscopic organisms which are the cause of nitrification, — are in- 
 active, for these invisible agents of fertility cannot perform their life 
 functions in a cold, water-laden soil. 
 
 Soils differ greatly in their capacities for holding water. The water- 
 holding capacity of a soil is the amount of water that a given weight 
 of soil will contain when all the air spaces between the grains of soil 
 are filled with water. The watei;-holding capacity of a heavy clay 
 soil is about 44J pounds of water in 100 pounds of soil ; a good wheat 
 soil, when fully saturated, will contain about 31J pounds of water, 
 and a very sandy soil under the same conditions will hold about -20 
 pounds of water. "When the water in a soil amounts to 80 per cent. 
 or more of its water-holding capacity, the soil conditions are detri- 
 mental to plant-growth. Ordinarily, plants thrive best when the 
 water in soils amounts to from 40 to 60 per cent, of their water- 
 holding capacity. 
 
 Drainage is eifected by opening trenches in the surface, or by 
 covered drains. Open drains are useful at times, but they are liable 
 to serious objections, and are much less desirable than covered ones. 
 Covered drains are more economical, last longer, do not interfere with 
 cultivation, or occupy space that might be more profitably used for 
 growing crops. Underdrains may be constructed of stones or of 
 porous tiles made specially for the purpose, or even of boards. We 
 say nothing here of the old-fashioned brush drains, for in this age no 
 farmer or gardener can a£ford to waste his time constructing such 
 clumsy and worthless affairs. Even the stone drain is cumbersome 
 and expensive to construct, and wherever tiles can be had, the cost 
 of construction is less, better drainage is obtained, the drain lasts 
 longer, and is less liable to get stopped up. To lay a stone drain a 
 large trench must be dug, involving much labor unnecessary in laying 
 
10 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 tiles. The trench for tiles may be narrow, a foot or a foot and a half 
 at the top, and half or less than half that width at the bottom. 
 
 The fall should not be less than one inch to the rod, and the 
 distance apart will vary from 15 to 20 feet in Yery wet, retentive soils, 
 to from 25 to 40 feet, or even greater distances, according to the 
 character of the soil to be drained. Ordinarily, drains should be laid 
 at a depth of from three to four feet from the surface. 
 
 Stone Drains. — If the stones are flat the drain should have an 
 orifice at 'the bottom, carefdlly covered to prevent the earth from 
 passing through and cloggmg up the passage. If round stones are 
 used, a " rubble" drain will then have to be constructed. This is 
 made by filling in the bottom of the trench with stones to a depth of 
 from 12 to 16 inches, and covering with inverted sods or a thick cover- 
 ing of straw to prevent the soil washing, through. 
 
 Wooden Drains. — For small gardens, triangular-shaped wooden 
 drains are sometimes built, and if well constructed, will last from 
 fifteen to twenty-five years. Spruce, pine, or hemlock boards are 
 ripped up into strips four inches in width, and three pieces are nailed 
 together to form a triangular-shape^ pipe. In putting the sections of 
 drain together care must be taken to "break" the joints, and also, 
 to nail the strips rather loosely together ; if the nails are too close 
 together the swelling of the boards in the wet ground may prevent 
 the water from entering the drain. Sound pine, hemlock, or spruce 
 boards answer admirably for such drains, or in regions where the 
 common yellow locust (Bobinia pseudacaeia) is indigenous, the wood 
 of this tree may be used. Drains constructed of yellow locust will 
 frequently last a lifetime. 
 
 Tile Drains. — Porous tiles are now to be had at reasonable cost in 
 all large cities, so that there is llttie reason for constructing stone or 
 wooden drains except in remote districts, where the cost of tile is pro- 
 hibitive. The round and horse-shoe tile are both in use, but the 
 latter seems to be the more popular with gardeners. Whichever is 
 selected, for the garden the lateral drains may be of two or three inch 
 tiles, placed from 15 to 20 feet apart in very wet, retentive soils ; in 
 more porous soils the distance may be from 25 to 40 feet, or even a 
 greater distance. The main drains should be from four to five inches 
 in diameter. 
 
 MANURING. 
 
 Stable Manure. — "Whatever the character of the soil, a goodly 
 quantity of stable manure should be used, and this the writer prefers 
 to apply late in the fall. In large gardens it may be plowed under, but 
 
MANUBING. 11 
 
 in smaller ones, if not convenient to spade in, the manure may lie on 
 the surface through the winter. If the garden soil is of a stiff, clayey 
 nature, plowing or spading should not be done when the ground is 
 ■very wet. 
 
 A dressing of stable manure should be applied every year, although 
 the practice of alternating with a high grade, complete fertilizer is 
 practiced by many market gardeners. A better plan is to use each 
 season both stable manure and commercial fertilizer. About every 
 third or fourth year a light dressing of air-slacked lime may be ad- 
 vantageously applied. From two and one-half to five pounds of air- 
 slacked lime to each 100 square feet of surface will be suflcient. 
 
 Composts. — All refuse materials not consumed by stock and poul- 
 try should be gathered together in a sheltered but convenient spot and 
 composted with sods, soil, straw, leaves, etc., interstratified with sufiS- 
 cient stable manure to bring about moderately rapid decomposition ; 
 night soil, poultry .manure, and the wash-water and slops from the 
 house may also be added. As the heap progresses, land-plaster, bone 
 meal, wood-ashes, and a little air-slacked lime may be dusted over the 
 surface. When a height of about five feet is attained the writer's 
 practice is to cover the heap with a light layer of soil, after which the 
 top and sides are sown with clover, rape, or turnips, and a new com- 
 post is begun. Wherever crimson clover is grown it serves admirably 
 for covering composts, but the common red or white Dutch clovers, 
 turnips, sand vetches, or cow peas will do equally well. But rye 
 should never be sown on a compost, for it will pump out the water and 
 leave the heap as dry as punk. 
 
 The growth of these plants shades the compost from the light, which 
 is not favorable to nitrification, and they act as a mulch, helping to retain 
 the moisture, which must be maintained even, if necessary, by throwing 
 a few pails of water over the pile in midsummer. 
 
 The growth on the compost thus serves a useful purpose, shading it 
 from the hot summer sun and covering with a growth of bright green 
 what in too many gardens is an unsightly pile of rubbish. If clover, 
 vetches, or cow peas are used, these plants are busily at work manu- 
 facturing the very best kind of food for garden crops. 
 
 For use in the garden there is no necessity to be continuously turn- 
 ing composts, as many writers advise. During the summer the refuse 
 materials may be deposited in some convenient spot,' and in autumn 
 the compost may be built by gathering up all the refuse products of 
 the garden and composting them with leaves, straw, sods, coal-ashes, 
 etc. Place the materials in layers about a foot thick, and between 
 
12 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GAKDEN. 
 
 each layer spread a course of strawy manure six inches thick. A little 
 land plaster may be sprinkled over the manure, and wood-ashes or air- 
 slacked lime dusted over the other materials. Bone meal may also be 
 used, and where such materials are to be had as kainit, fine-ground 
 South Carolina rock (floats), castor pomace, cotton-seed, etc., these 
 form excellent additions to composts. 
 
 Made in the fall, composts may be turned over in the spring, the 
 materials intimately mixed, and the clover or other seed sown. 
 
 In the following fell the heap may again be thrown over and used. 
 
 Concentrated Manures. — It is often desirable to apply commercial 
 fertilizers, bone meal, wood-ashes, etc., to small gardens and lawns, 
 and the question arises, how much of these materials shall we use ? 
 A thousand pounds per acre of concentrated chemical manure is never 
 too much, and it is a convenient quantity to use as a basis for estimates 
 in fertilizing fractional parts of an acre. At this rate per acre, vre use 
 approximately two and one-quarter pounds of fertilizer to each 100 
 square feet of soil ; the quantity in pounds to use at this rate on any 
 sized plot of ground may be readily ascertained by finding the area in 
 square feet, which is then multiplied by 2i and divided by 100, which 
 gives the number of pounds required. 
 
 For example : — 
 Suppose we have a lawn or garden 30 steps wide by 60 steps long, — we 
 estimate each step at one yard, or three feet. We have then, 
 
 90 ft. X 180 ft. = 16,200 sq. ft. 
 2i 
 
 32,400 
 4,050 
 
 100)36,450 (364 J lbs., the quantity of fertilizer to use, 
 or 16,200 square feet X SJ = 36,450 -^ 100 = 364J pounds. 
 
 Or, suppose we have a small suburban home plot, 20 by 40 feet, which 
 we wish to give a top dressing of bone meal, wood-ashes, or commer- 
 cial fertilizer :— 
 
 20 feet X 40 feet = 800 square feet X 2i = 1800 -r- 100 = 18 pounds. 
 
 If we wish to use fertilizers at. the rate of 2000 or 3000 pounds to 
 the acre, as many market gardeners do, we use tvrice or three times 
 the quantity thns ascertained. 
 
 An acre contains 43,560 square feet, or 6,272,640 square inches : 
 It will take nearly 900 pounds of fertilizer to the acre to furnish one 
 grain of fertilizer to each square inch of soil. There are 7000 
 
HOTBEDS AND COLD FRAMES. 
 
 13 
 
 grains in a ponnd, so that if the fertilizer were evenly distributed, 
 which is never the case in common practice, there would be spread 
 on each square inch of surface but the one seven-thousandth part 
 of a pound. It will thus be seen that a quantity of fertilizer far 
 in excess of the average application made by farmers in this country, 
 if evenly spread over the soil-surface and then distributed by culture 
 - or conveyed by water evenly through one foot in depth of the upper 
 soil, must fbrm but an infinitesimal part of the soil medium through 
 which the roots of plants must forage in their search for food. 
 
 HOTBEDS AND COLD FRAMES. 
 
 It is best to locate these on the sunny side of a barnyard waU, against ' 
 a building or high fence that will afford protection from the north wind. 
 
 FiQ. 1.— Illustration Showing the Manner op Making the Hotbed when 
 Sunk below the Surface oip the Ground. 
 
 They should be located near the manure pile, and convenient to water, 
 but on well-drained land. The sashes can be bought ready painted and 
 glazed in most cities much more cheaply than they can be made in small 
 establishments. The standard-size sashes are three and a quarter feet 
 wide by six feet long, and are one and a half to two inches in thick- 
 ness. If stored under cover and in a dry place when not in use, and 
 if given an occasional coat of paint, they will last a lifetime. So 
 little do sashes now cost that every family garden should be abundantly 
 provided with them ; — ^from three to six sashes wiU be enough for a 
 garden of one acre. 
 
 The Hotbed. — In making a hotbed, dig a trench facing the south 
 or southeast a few inches short of six feet wide, or as wide as the 
 
14 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TEE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 sashes will cover conveniently, about two feet deep, and as long as the 
 hotbed, is to be. This trench is then to be boarded up with sound 
 planed or rough boards. The north side of the frame should be six 
 or eight inches higher than the front, so that rain vrill quickly run off 
 the sashes (see Fig. 1). The plants vrill also receive more sunlight 
 if the sashes are at an angle than if placed horizontally over the bed. 
 The outside of the frame above soil-level should be well banked up, 
 when in use, with coarse manure, straw, or litter, which ynUl help to 
 retain warmth and shed rain. Or, if there is plenty of fresh stable 
 manure, the hotbed may be made as in Fig. 2. Cord the manure as 
 in the illustration, two feet high, and a foot vrider than the sash fiame 
 'on all sides ; when the frame has been set in position on the heap, the 
 
 6ROUND UELITEU 
 
 Fig. 2. — Illustkation Showdtg the Maitheb op Cohsteucting a Hotbed 
 above the surface of the grouin), 
 
 manure should be piled up on the outside nearly to the top of the boards, 
 making a warm j acket for the plants within. A portable frame of boards 
 may be made of any desired size for the sash to rest on ; it should be 
 twelve inches high at the back and eight inches high in front. 
 
 This style of bed does away with any digging and secures good 
 drainage ; the frame can be put away as soon as the plants are removed 
 to the garden, and the manure, which has become well rotted by this 
 time, provides excellent compost for any late-planted crop. 
 
 PREPARATION AND PLANTING. 
 
 The manure which is to produce the heat for a hotbed should 
 be thoroughly forked over about a week or ten days before the bed 
 
PBEPABATION AND PLANTING. 15 
 
 is started ; while a large proportion of the contents should be fresh 
 horse manure, straw, leaves, or any rapidly decaying litter may be 
 added to increase bulk and generate heat. When the materials 
 have been mixed and heaped solidly together, sprinkling with hot 
 water will hasten the fermentation. In about a week, when the 
 heat has gone down to 95° or 100° F., the manure should be placed 
 in the bed and well trampled down ; it should come up to within 
 eight inches of the top of the frame and be covered with three-and-a- 
 half or four inches of fine, rich soil. A good plan is to use earth sifted 
 through a coal sieve, by which means a fine, friable seed-bed is provided. 
 
 Place the sashes in position as soon as the manure and soil are thus 
 prepared. An increase of heat will result from the repacking of the 
 manure, and the bed wiU be too warm for planting, but the heat 
 generated will destroy many weed seeds in the soil ; the vapors and 
 gases arising from the fermenting manure will be absorbed by the 
 soil-cover which is to be the seed-bed. Sometimes there is a violent 
 fermentation and a rise in temperature to 115° to 120° F. In such cases 
 the sash should be slightly raised for a day or two. Always have a 
 good thermometer at hand, and insert it into the soil every day. 
 When the temperature has subsided to 90° F., planting may begin. 
 
 Finer and stockier plants will be produced if the seed is sown in 
 drUls about six inches apart and covered with soil to a depth of about 
 five times the diameter of the seed. The young plants must have a 
 uniform degree of heat and moisture from the time they appear above 
 ground until the time draws near for transplanting out-doors. 
 
 Hardening Off. — As the time approaches for planting out the 
 plants must be " hardened off," that is, they must be made hardy by 
 exposure to the outside air, whenever the weather will permit. By 
 this treatment, and by gradually withholding water, they become 
 more sturdy and when transplanted to the open garden do not suffer 
 from want of the protecting sash. 
 
 Shades. — Plant-bed cloth is the best material for this purpose, 
 although light frames made of laths answer quite well. The latha 
 should be tacked parallel to each other, from one to three inches apart, 
 and extend across the frames in such a manner as to run north and 
 south when the shade is in position. Plant-bed cloth has a decided 
 advantage in that it may be used also as a substitute for glass, both foi 
 hotbeds and cold frames. 
 
 Straw Mats. — As a protection from frost on cold nights and during 
 severe weather of early Spring, wooden shutters or straw mats should 
 be provided. Shutters one-half inch thick and the size of the sashes. 
 
16 
 
 VEGETABLES FOR THE SOME GARDEN. 
 
 made of any light wood, will do, but straw mats are decidedly better 
 
 and much cheaper. With reasonable care these mats will last four or 
 
 five years. They may be made at home during winter or on rainy days. 
 
 Making Straw Mats. — A rectangular frame of any desired dimen- 
 
 FiG. 3. — Making Straw Mat. {From a Photograph at Fohdhook Faems.) 
 
 sions for making the mats may be quickly constructed of stout boards. 
 If the sashes to be covered are six feet long the mats should be at 
 least one foot longer, so as to lap over the top and bottom edges which 
 are the points where frost is most liable to enter. 
 
PREPARATION AND PLANTING. 17 
 
 To make a secure frame for mats seven feet long, take for the longer 
 sides stout boards eight feet in length ; to these nail a top and bottom 
 cross-piece three feet long, thus providing a rectangular frame eight by 
 three feet. Into the top and bottom boards, ■which should be two 
 inches thick, drive heavy nails or insert wooden pegs one foot apart. 
 To these supports strong tarred strings, known as "marline," are 
 fastened and stretched tightly from the top to the bottom of the frame, 
 just as the strings of a violin or banjo are strung. Well waxed, heavy 
 twine will do quite well for constructing these warps or "uprights," 
 as the strings are called. At the bottom of each of the uprights 
 lighter tarred or waxed threads are fastened ; these should be twice as 
 long as the frame, and to prevent the threads becoming tangled, they 
 may be rolled on large spools and unwound as the work progresses. 
 The frame may be leaned nearly upright against a wall or placed in a 
 horizontal position, whichever may be most convenient for work. 
 
 In knitting the mats use the very best hand-thrashed rye straw ; or, 
 the long wiry sedge grass found growing in many sections makes very 
 good mats. Take about 50 haulms in the left hand, and with the 
 fingers of the right hand comb out all broken straws, so that only 
 straight, unbroken straws are retained. Get the stem ends even by 
 tapping on a board or the floor, and then divide the bundle into two 
 equal parts ; put them together again with one-half of the head or ear 
 ends facing the other half of the stem ends. This is done to make 
 the mat of uniform thickness throughout. The little bundle of straw, 
 held in the left hand, is now laid against the upright strings at the 
 bottom and the center of the bundle pressed tightly down with the 
 thumb of the left hand. The spool of twine is taken in the right 
 hand and the straw secured to the central upright by taking a single 
 turn from right to left around the upright and the straw, making a 
 half knot, which pull as tightly as possibly down on the straw, and 
 press the mesh thus formed flat with the left thumb. The latter 
 manipulation is most essential, for round-shaped meshes are to be 
 avoided. The straw is secured in the same manner to the other up- 
 rights and the work continued until the mat is finished. The last 
 layer of straw should be secured with tight, strong knots. Then the 
 overhanging straws from the sides are clipped off and the mat is ready 
 for use. The work is more expeditiously done when two persons are 
 engaged, one making the straw ready, the other laying it on and knit^ 
 ting the mat. Two men, after a little practice, will make a mat in 
 one-hour-and-a^half. 
 2 
 
18 . VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 After many years' experience with straw mats, and although 
 realizing the warmth they help to retain within the frames, we have 
 decided that for the amateur or novice the advertised heavy burlap 
 mat is preferable. To those accustomed to making and lising straw 
 mats we advise that they continue, but we doubt if the time con- 
 sumed in the making and after-care of the mats could not be used to 
 better advantage. 
 
 Our chief objections to straw mats are that they require a long 
 time to dry out after a heavy rain, and when not in use make really 
 an ideal harbor and nesting place for rats and mice. 
 
 The burlap mat advertised in different magazines will confine 
 very nearly as much heat as the one made of woven Straw, is more 
 easily handled, dries out more quickly, and if thrown across a bam 
 beam or hung up when not in use does not afford a quiet "nesting 
 place" for rats and mice. 
 
 In the tomato-growing section in southern New Jersey neither 
 straw nor burlap mats are used; here it is customary to cover the 
 sash with marsh hay, which is forked on each afternoon and removed 
 the next morning as soon as the sun gets up; and should the day be 
 cloudy and cold, this covering is generally not removed until the 
 temperature rises and there is practically no danger of the young 
 plants being nipped or touched by frost. 
 
 If the sashes fit frames tightly, it is remarkable how long well 
 prepared manure will generate heat. 
 
 Cold Frames. — These are for wintering cabbage, cauliflower, 
 lettuce, etc. , and for forwarding them in the spring. 
 
 Cold ftames are identical in construction with hotbeds except in 
 that they depend for their warmth on the natural heat of the sun 
 instead of artificial heat evolved by fermenting manure. For location 
 select a dry, southern exposure, on well drained land, where no water 
 will stand during winter. Use one-inch boards one foot high at the 
 back and nine inches high in front. Short posts set about four feet 
 apart will keep the sides in position. A cold frame from 12 to 18 feet 
 long by six feet wide will be ample for a large garden. 
 
 The soil within should have a dressing of about three inches of well 
 rotted manure, which should be spaded in. If shutters are used, they 
 should be six feet four inches long by three feet wide. These should 
 be raised on mild days to admit air, but sunlight must never be 
 admitted when the ground or plants are frozen. The object of the 
 cold frame is to preserve, not to grow, plants during the winter. 
 
TRANSPLANTING. 19 
 
 TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 To succeed in transplanting, onr plants must be well grown, that is, 
 they must be strong and vigorous, and to obtain thrifty, well- grown 
 plants we must have thorough preparation of the seed bed ; we must 
 also plant at the proper time and in the right manner. If the plants 
 are grown in the hotbed we must not permit them to be crowded by 
 each other, or injured by weeds or insects ; they must not be permitted 
 to suffer from too much or too little moisture, ftom overheating or cold, 
 or from want of fresh air. In the case of either hotbed plants or those 
 grown in the open ground, they should be let get quite dry for a day 
 or two before transplanting ; but give an 'abundance of water a few 
 hours before they are removed irom the seed bed. 
 
 While plants are young they are easily transplanted and there is 
 little loss provided they are carefully removed vrithout injury to the 
 roots ; if set out in rich, mellow soil the check to their growth vrill be 
 slight, and they will quickly recover. 
 
 In removing older plants, especially shrubs and young trees, the 
 utmost care is required to prevent the loss of the small fibrous roots 
 which extend some distance through the soil ; the growth of the stem 
 above ground with its leaves and branches is in proportion to the 
 extent of the roots ; any injury which the latter sustains in transplant- 
 ing may be counteracted in some measure by trimming off a corres- 
 Xwnding portion of the top. 
 
 In a norinal condition of growth there are only roots enough to 
 provide the nourishment required by the plant, and when a part of the 
 roots are cut off in transplanting the remaining parts cannot furnish 
 sap enough for the whole plant. By removing some of the branches or, a 
 part of the top, less sap is required and the remaining roots can supply 
 all the sap necessary for the nourishment of the plant. 
 
 SEED. 
 
 There is stored up in every perfect seed a latent germ, the embryo 
 of a new life, the development of which is conditional upon cer-- 
 tain natural causes. Moisture, warmth, and exposure to the atmos- 
 phere to some extent, are the influences needed to ensure germination 
 and the subsequent growth of the plant. Light is believed to play 
 no part in the process of germination, but on the other hand, it is 
 thought to retard, or at least in some degree to interfere with the 
 vegetative functions. After growth begins the influence of light is 
 
20 VEGETABLES FOB TSE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 most important, and withont it the plant makes no progress and soon 
 dies. 
 
 The seed must be buried in a properly prepared soil. If put into 
 the ground amd loosely covered with light, dry, lumpy soil, the seed 
 does not come in contact with sufficient moisture to soften it through- 
 out, nor is l<he heat likely to be sufficient, because of too great a circu- 
 lation of air. If the common practice in seed sowing, of planting 
 without first making fine the soil, is followed, a defi(aency of heat 
 and moisture is pretty sure to be the case. Theiefoie, before sowing, 
 the soil should be made very fine, and the seed lightly covered with 
 fine earth, whicdi should be firmly pressed around it. 
 
 If the seed be good and sown at the right time, and the condiMons 
 of the season are favorable, the germ soon swells, and a radical shoot 
 or rootlet is sent fbrth, fixing itself in the soil and beginning a down- 
 ward growth into the earth ; at the same time a stalk shoots upward 
 towards the light and wi in which its leaves unfold. The first root 
 that the plant puts forth does not famish it with food, but acts as a 
 mechanical support to hold the tender plantJet iA place until the 
 feeding roots are formed. 
 
 The first or seed-leaves contain the food for the in&nt plant until ■ 
 its true leaves and roots are formed. The feeding roots are delicate, 
 white, hair-like fibres, so small that the naked eye, unless unnsuaUy 
 keen, will not observe them. If the soil has not been made quite 
 fine and pressed firmly around the seed, when these minute roots 
 appear they will have nothing to live upon ; they must come in 
 immediate contact with moisture, and hence the necessity of pressing 
 the soil firmly on the seed bed at the time of sowing. Afterwards in 
 thinning out young plants where the seed has been too thickly sown, 
 the soil should be pressed firmly around the remaining plants. The 
 wcffk of thinning out should not be long deferred, but done before the 
 second pair of leaves are developed. 
 
 Choice of Seed. — Success in the family garden as well as in gen- 
 eral farming, depends in a great measure on the quality of the seed 
 planted. 
 
 Soil, climate, and cultivation are factors in modifying results, but 
 perfect seed, fully ripened, in which the germinative power is stiU 
 unimpaired, produced itself by strong, vigorous plants, is essential even 
 to moderate success in gardening. 
 
 It matters not what efforts we have made in the preparation of the 
 soil, if the seed is poor the result will be correspondingly poor, or 
 
SEED. 21 
 
 what is more probable, our efforts -will end in complete failure. The 
 value of the garden is in proportion to the good things it yields, and 
 good vegetables can only be obtained by planting vigorous^ seeds of 
 good varieties, and these cannot ' be bought cheaiply. There is 
 marked difference between seeds grown with the greatest care in 
 order to secure certain esculent properties, and seeds grown merely 
 to sell. 
 
 Good seeds cannot be produced cheaply because the causes that 
 combine to make a variety valuable weaken its powers of reproduc- 
 tion. It is a physiological fact that high development in animal and 
 vegetable life is not fiivorable to rapid or prolific reproduction. 
 Single flowers wiH be followed by an immense number of seeds, while 
 a perfectly double one is unproductive. The value of a tomato is 
 enhanced by the absence of seed ; a fleshy melon has but few seeds, 
 proportionately, so that the cost of growing the seed of either is in 
 proportion to the quantity produced. It, therefore, follows, that the 
 difference in the cost of seeds, or the prices charged for them, truly 
 represents the value or quality of what they will produce. 
 
 The expenditure for seed is so smaU in proportion to the other ex- 
 penses attending the gardten, and to the value of its productions, that 
 the cost of seed should not for a moment be considered. 
 
 Quantity of Seed. — In the family garden it is often essential to 
 make the most of a limited area. Economy of space is a matter 
 which the gardener has to take into account, at least in suburban 
 districts, where land is necessarily more costly than in farming com- 
 munities. 
 
 Plants should cover the entire ground, each having just enough 
 room to allow full development and no more. To learn how much 
 seed will be necessary we must consider the character and fertility of 
 the soil, its preparation, and the peculiarities of the plants to be 
 grown, whether large or small. If the land is kept clean and free 
 from weeds less seed will be required. In the following pages the 
 quantities of seed recommended are based on conservative methods 
 of planting and will be found a safe average for use in the family 
 garden-. 
 
 Change of Seed. — ^With a few exceptions our cultivated plants 
 originally were wild, and in a state of nature were much less valuable 
 as articles of food for man and his domesticated animals. They have 
 been brought to their present state of excellence by careful selection 
 and cultivation. In all cultivated plants^ there is a tendency to 
 revert to- the abariginal form, that is, there is a natural tendency to 
 
22 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 lose those characteristics for which we value them and to go hack to 
 the original condition of the wild plant. This tendency to degenerate 
 can be prevented in some degree by high cultivation and care in the 
 selection of seed. Indeed, selection is the basis, the fonndation prin- 
 ciple on which all improvements in vegetable forms rest. 
 
 -Soil and climate exercise a determining influence on growth ; not- 
 withstanding the skill of man and his watchfulness in guarding 
 against deterioration, common experience proves that under unfavor- 
 able conditions determined by soil and climate, plants gradually lose 
 their best qualities and revert to inferior forms. It is obvious that 
 such localities are not suitable ones in which to perpetuate the type. 
 
 To avoid the evils of sowing inferior or degenerated seeds we must 
 use those produced in other localities where special soil and climatic 
 conditions enable the professional seed grower to raise seeds in the 
 highest degree of perfection and purity. For it is plain that where 
 the plant thrives with the utmost vigor there is the locality suited to 
 the perpetuation and improvement of the type. 
 
 Under many circumstances a change of seed is an agricultural neces- 
 sity, and this necessitiy has made possible the enormous development 
 of the seed-growing industry in aU civilized lands. 
 
 In the home garden, where the object is to obtain a succession of the 
 best vegetables, we doubt if it ever pays the gardener to attempt to 
 save his own seed. 
 
 The saving of seed is the special business of the seed grower, and 
 the professional seedsman knows the requirements of his patrons much 
 better than they do themselves. It is a well known fact that in no 
 one known locality will all vegetable forms thrive with equal vigor, 
 and where seeds are grown each locality has a reputation for some 
 special class. The seedsman finds these localities out, and places his 
 contracts accordingly. The seeds the gardener receives from his seeds- 
 man are not even all from the same continent, but each kind comes 
 from that part of the habitable globe which produces the best of what- 
 ever sort it may be. 
 
 Soaking the Seed. — Steeping the seed is condemned by many 
 horticultural writers, but we know of little authentic evidence that 
 the practice isdnjurious, and with some slowly germinafing seeds like 
 beet, carrot, mangel, salsify, and parsnip, the vegetative processes are 
 undoubtedly hastened by steeping. Seeds have a wonderful power of 
 resisting the injurious action of liquids that would almost instan- 
 taneously kill the parent plants. Darwin mentions the case of an 
 asparagus plant with ripe berries, which floated in sea water for 
 
SEED. 23 
 
 twenly-three days, and which when dried floated for eighly-flve days 
 in the same medium, after which the seed germinated. Out of 87 
 kinds of seed tested by him and immersed in sea water, 64 germinated 
 after an immersion of twenty-eight days, and a few survived an 
 immersion of 137 days. If good seed is sown at the right season and 
 in a well prepared seed bed, the natural warmth and moisture of the 
 soil will in. due time bring forth the plant. Soaking seed in solutions 
 of ammonium salts, lime-water, common salt, etc., will not, as some 
 gardeners suppose, supply the place of manure. Solutions of corrosive 
 sublimate, sulphate of iron, sulphate of copper, etc., are sometimes 
 used for steeping seeds and tubers, to destroy the spores of certain 
 bacterial diseases, but the use of these agents has no reference to 
 germination. 
 
 Depth of Covering. — Deep planting is a frequent cause of failure 
 in the seed to germinate, and it also retards growth when the seed 
 does germinate, and the plant with dif&culty makes its way upward 
 to the light and air. 
 
 The seed should be covered to sufficient depth to secure the heat, 
 moisture, and air needful for germination, but no deeper. The depth 
 varies with the kind of seed, the natuse of the soil, the climate, and 
 the time of planting. Very small seeds require only a shallow cover- 
 ing, or simply rolling in. A clay soil is less easily peiietrated by air 
 and warmth, and the seed requires less covering than in a sandy one. 
 The writer's experience is that deeper planting is required in late 
 summer or early autumn than in spring. This is directly opposed to 
 the teachings of some writers, but it is founded on experience. 
 
 "Warmth and moisture are necessary to germination. In spring mois- 
 ture is usually abundant, but the soil is cold and warmest near the 
 surface. A thin covering of soil is at this time more favorable to 
 germination. In late summer or early autumn the conditions are 
 generally reversed. The earth is warm and moisture near the surface 
 most deficient. A deeper covering is thus essential to secure the 
 requisite moisture. 
 
 Some seeds germinate more quickly and surely if planted edgewise 
 and with the germ end down. This is the case with all vines. Cucum- 
 ber, melon, squash, and pumpkin seeds germinate with greater cer- 
 tainty when planted in an upright position with the germ down, and 
 Lima beans should always be planted edgewise with the eye down. 
 
24 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 TIME OF PLANTING. 
 
 No precise rules can be laid down ae to the time of planting ; the 
 gardener must be governed by the practice of the best gardeners in 
 his locality and by the peculiar circumstances of his surroundings. 
 
 The season advances northward along the Atlantic coast at the aver- 
 age rate of about thirteen miles per day, or about 100 mUes per week. 
 In the great truck-growing regions of the east, which comprise a nar- 
 row strip of the light, sandy soils of the coastal lowlands of the 
 Atlantic seaboard, the extreme difference between the time of plant 
 ing at the northern and sontheinmost limits is about one hundred and 
 sixteen days. 
 
 This region extends along the Atlantic coast for a distance of about 
 1500 miles, from Florida to Massachusetts; 
 
 Over a large part of the United States early cabbage, cauliflower, 
 celery, egg plants, lettuce, cucumbers, peppers, and tomatoes are sown 
 during the latter part of winter under glass ; cabbage and cauliflower 
 are transplanted to the garden about the time the apple trees are in 
 blossom. The earliest bush beans, carrots, celery, lettuce, leeks and 
 early potatoes are planted about the same time. Beets, onions, peas, 
 parsnips, salsify, and early turnips can be planted a little earlier, — 
 about the time the peach trees are in bloom, — or as soon as the ground 
 is dry enough to work. In the case of egg plants, cucumbers, peppers 
 and tomatoes, transplanting must be deferred until the weather is 
 settled and the ground warm ; bush and pole beans (except Limas), 
 okra, early squashes, late lettuce and celery may be planted at the 
 same time. Lima beans, sweet com, cucumbersj melons, fall and 
 winter squashes, must be deferred until all danger of fix)st is past. 
 
 The time of planting will necessarily vary with, first, the climate ; 
 second, the season ; third, the character of the soil ; and fourth, the 
 kinds of plants to be grown. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 Diversities of climate depend on many causes, some of which are 
 general and others local. 
 
 Among general causes the first in importance is latitude, or dis- 
 tance from the equator, where the sun at noon is directly overhead. 
 The height above the horizon to which the sun rises at noon, other 
 conditions being the same, will determine the kind of climate. A 
 second cause is elevation above sea-level. Lines of equal temperature 
 conform in a general way to the contours of altitude. The higher 
 
CLIMATE. 2S 
 
 we ascend above the level of the sea, in any given region, the colder 
 it becomes ; changes in base level greatly modify temperature and 
 humidity, and these, primarily, determine the distribution of plants 
 and animals. 
 
 In ascending lofty mountains a succession of climatic belts may be 
 traversed similar to those encountered in journeying from the tropics 
 to distant polar regions,; each belt will be found to support a distinc- 
 tive flora and fauaa, until upon the higher summits we find a region 
 of perpetual snow, abandoned by animals and where all vegetation 
 disappears. 
 
 We have an interesting illustration of this in the biological survey 
 made by the division of Ornithology and Mammalogy of the United 
 States Department of Agriculture in 1891, and popularly known as 
 the Death Valley Expedition. 
 
 This region embraces the highest and lowest lands within the 
 United States, — from Death Yaliey, nearly 500 feet below the level 
 of the sea to the lofty, snow-capped peaks of the high Sierra, cul' 
 minating in Mount Whitney, at an altitude of nearly 15,000 feet. 
 
 The region was selected because of the exceptional advantages it 
 offered £91 studying the distribution of animals and plants in relation 
 to the effect of temperature and humidity at different altitudes. The 
 close proximity of desert valleys and lofty mountains brings near 
 together species which in a more level country are characteristic of 
 widely remote legions. 
 
 Thus, in. one place on the east side of the Sierra all of the life zones 
 of North America, from the table-land of Mexico to the Polar sea, 
 may be crossed in a distance of ten miles. 
 
 A third cause fer diversity of climate iS' distance from the sea. 
 Nearness to the sea or to large bodies of water has a tendency to 
 moderate^the cold of winter and the heat of summer. A fourth 
 cause, particularly affecting the ripening of fruits and the earliness 
 of many vegetableSj is the brightness of the sun from the clearness 
 of the atmosphere. The beat of clear, uninterrupted sunshine ripens 
 fruits more rapidly, and developes the juices much more effectually 
 than the same amount of heat under a clouded or murky sky ; and 
 the same is true of many vegetables, bright sunlight favors their 
 development and hastens their maturity. 
 
 Some local causes of diversities in climate are the condition of the 
 surface of the coimtnyj^ whether well wooded or bare, situated in the 
 mountains or on plaifflsj at the bottom of valleys, if protected 
 
26 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 against prevailing cold or hot winds, or if exposed to their violence ; 
 the nature of the soil, its inclination and exposure to the north or to 
 the south ; and too much or too little sunshine. 
 
 In any given locality a dry, warm sandy soil, other conditions heing 
 the same, is ready for planting much earlier than a compact clay. 
 
 The earHness or lateness of the spring, makes a great difference in 
 the time of planting, and a dry or wet season will decide not only the 
 time of planting but will also affect the yield, quality and maturity of 
 the crops produced. 
 
 The foregoing aie some of the general and local causes that influence 
 climate, and climate and soil determine what kinds of crops shall be 
 grown. 
 
 GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION OF PLANTS AND 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 The territories of the United States are divided by naturalists into 
 a definite number of belts or zones, each of which is characterized 
 by the presence of certain native plants and animals, and which 
 under cultivation is fitted for particular agricultural industries. The 
 life areas of plants and animals conform to certain general principles 
 of temperature control. 
 
 The feet has been long recognized that associated species, both 
 plants and animals, are not universally distributed over the earth, 
 but disappear along certain more or less definite lines which indicate 
 a change in temperature uncongenial to the species, but exactly what 
 temperatures exert the controlling influence and how they can be 
 measured have only recently been discovered. Plants require a defin- 
 ite sum total of heat in order to successfully perform their several 
 vital functions, — germination, leafing, flowering, and fruiting, — and 
 unless a particular sum of heat is attained, which varies with the con- 
 stitutional requirements of plants, they cannot mature seeds. And 
 with animals, their dispersion over the continent is found to conform 
 to certain lines of equal temperature during the season of reproduction. 
 
 "The reason," says, Dr. C. Hart Merriam, "certain animals and 
 plants are restricted to particular belts where no visible barriers exist 
 to prevent dispersion is that the sensitive organizations of such species 
 have become adapted to the particular physical and climatic condi- 
 tions there prevalent and are not sufficiently plastic to enable them to 
 live under other conditions. What is true of animals and plants in a 
 state of nature is true also of animals and plaiits as modified by man ; 
 
GEOGBAPSIO DISTRIBUTION OF LIFE FORMS. 27 
 
 for every race or breed of sheep, cattle, or swine, and every variety of 
 grain, vegetable or fruit thrives best under particular conditions of 
 temperature, moisture and exposure." — (Eep. Sec'y- Agr. 1893.) 
 
 One of the most important achievements of the Federal Giovernment, 
 both from its high scientific interest and weighty practical utility to 
 agriculture, is the recently completed biological survey, mapping oat 
 the boundaries of the several life zones of the United States. This 
 great work, accomplished by the Division of Ornithology and Mam- 
 malogy of the Department of Agriculture, has made clear the important 
 facts that the same laws govern the distribution of animals and plants, 
 and that the resulting areas of distribution are essentially coincident. 
 
 It has been found that animals and plants coincide in distribution, 
 so that a map showing the boundaries of an area inhabited by an 
 association of species in one group serves equally well for the other 
 groups. 
 
 In other words the territories of the United States, and in fact those 
 of the entire continent of North America, are divided into a number 
 of clearly defined life areas or life zones, in which certain wild and- 
 cultivated plants, and certain native and domesticated animals will 
 thrive, and in which certain troublesome weeds and destructive species 
 of insects are to be expected. Beyond the boundaries of one life zone 
 or one life area, another association of native animals and plants is to 
 be met, and another determinate class of agricultural productions will 
 thrive, while different species of weeds and noxious insects are to be 
 expected and combated. 
 
 In reviewing the relations which the geographic distribution of 
 plants and animals bear to agricultural pursuits, Dr. C. Hart Merriam, 
 in the Year Book, United States Department Agriculture, 1894, says: — 
 
 " When the boundaries of the life zones and areas are accurately 
 Mapped, the agriculturist need only ascertain the faunal area to which 
 a particular crop or garden plant of limited range belongs, in order to 
 know beforehand just where it may be introduced with every pros- 
 pect of success, soil and other local modifying influences being suit- 
 able ; and in the case of weeds and of injurious and beneficial mam- 
 mals, birds, and insects, he would know what kind were to be looked 
 for in his immediate vicinity, and could prepare in advance for noxious 
 species that from time to time suddenly extend their range. Persons 
 living within the area likely to be invaded could escape by planting 
 ' crops not affected, whUe those living outside might largely increase 
 their revenues by giving special attention to the cultivation of the 
 
^ VEGETABLES FOB TBE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 crops that are affected in the adjacent life zone. In short, a knowl- 
 edge of the natural life areas of the United States and of their dis- 
 tinctive species and crops would enable onr farmers and fruit growers 
 to select the products best adapted to their localitiesj would help them 
 in their battle with harmful species, and would put an end to the 
 present indiscriminate experimentation by which hundreds of thoas- 
 ancls, if not millions of dollars are needlessly expended each year." 
 
 THE SEVEN LIFE ZONES OF NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 Our native animals and plants are distributed finom two directions,-- 
 one class come from the north and the other from, the south. Those 
 from the north are defined by naturalists as Boreal species and those from 
 the south as Austral species. In their dispersion over the continent it 
 is found that their life areas take the form of a definite number of 
 transcontinental belts or zones which naturally arrange themselves in 
 two principal regions — a northern or Boreal and southern or Austral 
 region. 
 
 Through the courtesy of Hon. J. Sterling Morton, Secretary of Agri- 
 culture, we are enabled to present as a frontispiece to this work a map 
 of the life zones of the United States, reproduced from the original 
 engraving in the Year Book of the United States Department of Agri- 
 culture for 1894. 
 
 * The continent of North America has been divided into three prim- 
 ary life regions, (1) Boreal, (2) Austral, and (3) Tropical, each 
 stretching across the continent from ocean to ocean, though with tor- 
 tuous boundaries conforming to the distribution of temperature. 
 
 The Boreal region stretches from Nova Scotia and Newfoundland 
 westward to the Pacific Ocean and from northern New England and 
 the Great Lakes northward to the pole, and southward over the prin- 
 cipal mountains of the United States and Mexico. It is subdivided 
 into three principal belts or zones, Arctic, Hudsonian, and Canadian. 
 
 The Arctic or Arctic- Alpine belt comprises Arctic America above the 
 limit of tree growth, including Greenland, and a narrow strip along 
 the coast of Labrador and Newfoundland, and also the summits of the 
 higher mountains above timber line throughout the United States and 
 Mexico. 
 
 It is characterized by such plants as Arctic poppy, dwarf willow, and 
 
 * Abstracted from the Tear Book of the United States Department of Agri- 
 oulture, 1894. 
 
THE SEVEN LIFE ZONES OF NORTH AMERICA. 29 
 
 various saxifrE^es and gentians, and is a zone of no agricnltural 
 importance. The Hudsonian zone embraces the northern half of the 
 great forest region stretching from Labrador to Alaska. It comprises 
 the northern or higher parts of the great transcontinental forest of 
 spruce and fir, but is of no agricnltural importance. 
 
 The Canadian zone embraces the southern half of the great con- 
 iferous forest, stretching from New England and Nova Scotia to 
 British Colnmbiar. It comes into the United States from Canada, and 
 covers the northern parts of Michigan, Vermont, New Hampshire, 
 and Maine. Further south it is restricted to the summits of the 
 higher Alleghanies. Counting from the north, this zone is the first 
 of any agricultural consequence. Here white potatoes, turnips, the 
 Oldberg apple, and the more hardy cereals may be cultivated with 
 moderate success. 
 
 The Austral region is likewise subdivided into three transconti- 
 nental zones : (1) A Transition Zone ; (3) an Upper Austral Zone ; 
 (3) a Lower Austral Zone ; all stretching from the Atlantic to ttie 
 Pacific and winding about sufficiently to cover areas of equal tem- 
 perature from ocean to ocean. Each of the three Austral belts may 
 be subdivided in an east and west direction into two or more areas, 
 some of which are based on humidity'instead of temperature. 
 
 The Transition Zone is the belt in which Bor^l and Austral 
 elements overlap. It covers the greater part of New England, New 
 York, Pennsylvania, Wisconsin, and Southern Michigan, and pushes 
 south along the Alleghanies to extreme Northern Georgia. 
 
 Here the oak, hickory, chestnut, and walnut of the south meet 
 the maple, beech, birch, and hemlock of the north. The same over- 
 lapping is found among animals. In this zone we enter the true 
 agricultural part of our country, where apples (Oldberg, Baldwin, 
 Greening, Seek-no-fnrther, and others), blue plums, cherries, white 
 potatoes, barley and oats attain their highest perfection. The eastern 
 ends of these three belts have been long recognized by zoologists and 
 are known as the AUeghanian, Carolinian and^Austroriparian faunas. 
 
 The Carolinian Zone covers the larger part of the Middle States ex- 
 cept the mountains ; on the Atlantic coast it reaches from near the 
 mouth of Chesapeake Bay to southern Connecticut, and pushes still 
 further north in the valleys of the Hudson and Connecticut rivers. 
 It is the region in which the sassafras, tulip tree, hackberry, sweet 
 gum and persimmon first make their appearance. In this zone the 
 Ben Davis" and vrine-sap apples, the peach, apricot, quince, sweet 
 
30 VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 potato, tobacco, and the hardier grapes, such as the Concord, Catawba, 
 and Isabella, thrive best. 
 
 The Austroriparian Zone covers the greater part of the South Atlan- 
 tic and Gulf States, beginning at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay. The 
 long-leafed pine, magnolia, and live oak are common on uplands, and 
 the bald cypress and cane in swamps. 
 
 This is the zone of the cotton plant, sugar cane, rice, pecan and pea- 
 nut ; of the oriental pears (Le Conte and Kieffer), the Scuppernong 
 Grape and of the citrus fruits — the orange, lemon, lime, and shad- 
 dock. In its western continuation (the Lower Sonoran) the raisin 
 grape, olive, and almond are among the most important agricultural 
 products, and the fig ripens several crops each year. 
 
 The Tropical Region comprises Central America, the greater part of 
 the coastal lowlands of Mexico, and the Antilles. Within the United 
 States it is restricted to Southern Florida, extreme southeast Texas 
 (along the Eio Grande and Gulf Coast), and the valley of the lower 
 Colorado in Arizona and California. Among the tropical trees that 
 grow in Southern Florida are the royal palm, Jamaica dogwood, 
 manchineel, mahogany and mangrove. The banana, cocoanut, date 
 palm, pine apple, mango and cherimoyer thrive in this belt. 
 
 In its broader aspect the study of the geographic distribution of 
 life in North America is completed. The primary regions and their" 
 principal subdivisions have been defined and mapped, the problems 
 involved in the control of distribution have been solved and the laws 
 "themselves have been formulated. The work remaining undone re- 
 lates to details and may be classed under four heads : (1) Completion 
 of the boundary surveys of the several zones ; (2) subdivision of the 
 zones into minor faunas and floras ; (3) tabulation of the distinctive 
 species of each zone and its subdivision ; (4) formulation of the sub- 
 ordinate laws governing the restriction of species to particular areas 
 within the principal zones. 
 
PART II. 
 WHAT TO GROW IN THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 ARTICHOKE, FRENCH {Cynaraacolymus). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed io One Hundred Feet of Bow. A hardy perennial 
 growing fix)ni three and one-half to four feet high, believed to have 
 been derived by cultivation from the wild Cardoon. 
 
 CuLTUKE. — The artichoke attains its highest development in a 
 deep, rich sandy loam, but will thrive in almost any soil made fine by 
 deep culture, and enriched with heavy dressings of well-rotted manure. 
 The plants are propagated from seed, by dividing the stools, or from , 
 suckers. Seed should be sown in the hot- 
 bed early in spring, in rows six inches 
 apart and half an inch deep ; the seedlings 
 are transplanted into pots or boxes, where 
 they should have plenty of room and 
 sunlight. When all danger of frost is 
 past transplant to the open ground. The 
 rows should be from three to four feet 
 apart, and the plants two feet distance 
 from each other in the rows. Set plants 
 firmly in the ground, water copiously, 
 and keep free from weeds by the frequent 
 use of the hoe. Thus raised, heads, 
 
 which are the parts used for culinary purposes, are abundantly pro- 
 vided from September until frost. 
 
 Seed may also be sown in the open ground in April or May, but the 
 seed-bed should be made in a sheltered situation, and the tender 
 plants be given protection at night and on the frequently recurring 
 cold days of spring. Raised in this manner the plants will not pro- 
 duce edible heads the first season north of Virginia. 
 
 Plantings may also be made by detaching below the surface the 
 suckers or shoots produced around the stools that fiowered the year 
 before, and planting in the same manner as seedlings. The second 
 
 31 
 
 Abtichoee. 
 
32 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 year heads will commence to form in July. By cutting back the 
 flowering stems close to the ground at this time, tender shoots will 
 rapidly grow, which may he tied up and blanched like celery, and 
 used like cardoons. Late in autumn cut off the tops and protect the 
 crowns with a covering of leaves or litter, and in spring work into the 
 soil a dressing of finely rotted manure and bone meal. 
 
 In a congenial soil mid climaite artisohoke should be renewed every 
 three or four years. For the family garden set out a few vigorous 
 shoots or suckers each spring. 
 
 Varieties. — ^The Large Green Globe is the standard garden 
 variety. 
 
 ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM {Eelianfhwe tviberosm). 
 
 Three Bushels of Tubei-s are BequvreH to Plant an Acre. A hardy 
 perennial growing from six to eight feet high, believed to be indig- 
 enous to northeast North America. It bears no resemblance to the 
 French Artichoke, but botanically is a species of Sunflower, producing 
 underground shoots ■frhich, like the potato, swell into true tubers. 
 These are used as human food in some parts of Europe ; in America 
 the tubers are used to a slight extent as a salad, but are grown chiefly 
 for feediug to stock, especially swine. 
 
 It is propagated from the tubers, which should be planted in rows 
 from four to five feet apart and one foot apart in the rows ; plant at 
 the same time and in the same manner as eairly potatoes. 
 
 Artichoke roots are carried in stock by few seedsmen, but may be 
 obtained from large produce dealers. 
 
 ASPARAGUS (Aspa/ragus officinalis). 
 
 Two and a Half Ounces of Seed to One Hundred Feet of Bow. A pe- 
 rennial of ancient cultivation, native to the maritime provinces of 
 Europe and probably of Western Asia. 
 
 CU-LT0EI;. — Asparagus succeeds best on sandy, saline soils near the 
 sea, but may be grown with success in any family garden, provided 
 the ground is made friable by deep cultivation and by the use of an 
 abundant supply of well-rotted manure. If the land is of a stiff, tena- 
 cious character a few cart-loads of sharp sand from some near-by 
 stream spread over the bed after it has been plowed or spaded up, will 
 permanently improve the texture of the soil, and more than repay, in 
 the yield and quality of the asparagus, for the labor thus expended. 
 
 From Boots. — For thfe home garden we advise that well grown one or 
 two-year-old roots be planted. Make rows five feet apart and about 
 six inches deep; set the roots in the bottom of the rows two feet 
 
ASPARAGUS. 
 
 33 
 
 Babb's Mammoth 
 aspabagds, 
 
 apart, cover with about two inches of rich soil, and as the plants 
 grow give thorough cultivation, and fill in the trench at each hoeing 
 until level with the surface of the bed. 
 
 When stalks turn yellow in the fall, cut off close to ground, rake 
 into heaps and burn. The bed should be well mulched with manure 
 after it has been cleaned off, and in field 
 culture the manure should be applied along 
 the rows. In early spring rake off the 
 coarser portion of the manure and dig in 
 the remainder, being careful not to dis- 
 turb the crowns or roots. The small bed 
 is best maintained by applying a heavy 
 dressing of a good commercial fertilizer 
 after the season is past for cutting the 
 shoots. Cease cutting as soon as early 
 varieties of cuUnary peas are ready for the 
 table. 
 
 From Seed. — Seed should be sown in 
 early spring, just as soon as the land can be 
 easily worked. Plow or spade deeply, and 
 give the ground a heavy dressing of rotted 
 
 manure. Pour hot water on the seed and let it soak in a warm place 
 for twenty-four hours before planting. Sow thinly in drills ten to 
 twelve inches apart, and two inches deep; when the plants are up, 
 thin out to not less than two inches apart. If the land is rich and 
 has been kept loose and well cultivated the plants may be set out in 
 the permanent bed the next spring. 
 
 The Asparagus Beetle is pretty sure to put in an appearance just 
 about the time bunching begins for the early market. In the family 
 garden the eggs may be rubbed off before hatching, or if domestic 
 poultry are allowed to have the run of the asparagus bed the beetles 
 will be greedily devoured. One of the best remedies is fresh, air- 
 slajied hme dusted on the plants in the early morning while the 
 dew is on. It quickly destroys all the grubs with which it comes in 
 contact. 
 
 Varieties. — Conover's Colossal is an old standard variety. 
 Palmetto is the variety which is planted mostly by southern growers. 
 Barr's Mammoth is very tender and succulent, and is decidedly our 
 choice for the family garden. The Columbia Mammoth White 
 will be preferred by those who desire a white asparagus; the thick 
 white stalks are produced above the surface. 
 3 
 
34 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 BEANS (Phaaeolus). 
 
 Annuals quickly coming to maturity, except the Limas, which m 
 their native habitat are of perennial growth. The more common 
 Dwarf or Bush Beans have their parentage in a species believed to be 
 native to the East Indies. 
 
 The Pole or Running Beans are from tropical South America ; they 
 were carried to Europe about the middle of the seventeenth century. 
 .'Vll modern varieties under cultivation are derived from species native 
 to the warmer regions of the earth, notably India and America. 
 
 Beans— Bush, Dwarf, Snap or String {Phaseolm vulgaris). 
 One Quart of Seed to One Hundred Feet of Drill. 
 CuLTUEB. — Bush Beans come Into bearing most quickly in rich, 
 sandy soil, but the quality of the product is not so good, nor is the 
 
 yield so prolific as 
 in moderately strong 
 loam. Whatever the 
 character of the soil 
 of the home garden, 
 it should be worked 
 deeply and made fine 
 before planting. Seed 
 must not be sown un- 
 til the ground is quite 
 warm and dry ; so w in 
 drills eighteen inches 
 apart, and from one 
 to two inches deep ; 
 the plants when well 
 up should be thinned 
 out to from three to 
 four inches apart in 
 the drills. Give fre- 
 quent shallow hoe- 
 ings, so as not to disturb the roots near the surface. 
 
 On a southern slope or in other locations affording protection from 
 exposure, the earliest varieties may be planted a week earlier than in 
 less favorable situations, and will be ready for use in from forty to 
 forty-four days from planting. The later varieties will continue longer 
 in bearing, and for this reason are more desirable for the family garden. 
 
 BuBPEK's Pekfectioit Wax Bean. 
 
BEANS. 
 
 35 
 
 Plant a sueeession from early in May until August, or later in the 
 South. 
 
 Varieties. — First in point of earliness, tenderness, and excellence 
 of quality we place Burpee's Stringless Green Pod Bean, which is now 
 closely followed by the white-seeded selection, Fordhook Favorite. 
 They are earUer than the Early Yellow Six Weeks, while the crisp, 
 fleshy pods are longer and straighter than the Red Valentine, and 
 therefore superior to either of these varieties, both in appearance and 
 quality. 
 
 Among other productive Green-Podded Bush Beans are Early 
 Yellow Six Weeks, Round Yellow Six Weeks, Refugee or 1000 to 
 One, Full Measure, and the Extra Early Red Valentine. 
 
 Among Wax-Podded varieties we suggest Rust-Proof Golden Wax, 
 Burpee's Saddleback Wax, Burpee's Brittle Wax, Burpee's New 
 Kidney Wax, Pencil-Pod Black Wax, and Burpee's White Wax. 
 
 Bush Lima Beans. 
 
 There are three distinct types of Dwarf or Bush Limas, all 
 of which are used exclusively as shell beans. 
 
 The earliest are Henderson's and 
 its improved type, Wood's ProUfic. 
 Burpee's and The Burpee Improved 
 are the bush types of the large white 
 Lima; these are gi-own exclusively 
 where the flat Lima is desired. 
 The Kumerle, Thorburn's, or Dreer's 
 Bush Lima is a dwarf-growing strain 
 of the well-known Challenger or Po- 
 tato Lima, but this variety has been 
 practically displaced by the Ford- 
 hook Bush Lima, which has the up- 
 right growth and large foliage of the 
 original Burpee Bush Lima, and pro- 
 duces "potato" Lima beans of the 
 finest quality. 
 
 CuLTtinB. — The Bush Limas may 
 be planted in hiUs three feet apart 
 each way, or in drills three feet by 
 20 inches apart in the drills. Plant 
 edgewise with the eyes down and 
 two inches deep. 
 
 Burpee's 
 
 BtrsH Lima 
 
36 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Other shell varieties of Bush Beans, both for summer and winter 
 use, which should find a place in the home garden, are the Dwarf 
 Horticultural, Goddard or Boston Favorite, and White Marrowfat. 
 
 Beans— Pole or Running Varieties. 
 
 One Pint of Seed to One Hundred Hills. Pole Beans are more tender 
 than the Dwarf varieties and should not be planted until the weather 
 is warm and settled and the ground dry. They succeed best in 
 warm, sandy loam. Well rotted stable or poultry manure may be 
 used to enrich the ground, but beans of all kinds do best on land 
 made fertile by manure applied in a previous season. Before plant- 
 ing the seed set the poles, from six to eight feet long, in rows running 
 north and south, four feet apart each way in the rows. Around each 
 pole plant from six to eight beans, two inches deep; when well 
 started thin out to four plants to a hill. 
 
 At FoBDHOOK we reserve the same location year after year for 
 our trials of pole snap beans and pole hmas, as we have foimd they 
 do better, the vines being stronger and more productive, and this 
 we feel sure is owing to the nitrogen-gathering characteristic of the 
 bean roots. 
 
 The Pole Limas are more tender than other running beans and 
 should not, on this account, be planted until a week or fortnight 
 later. As with the Dwarf Limas, the pole varieties should be planted 
 edgewise with the eye down. To keep the vines in continuous bear- 
 ing until killed by frost pull all pods before they have ripened seed. 
 The ripened beans are excellent for winter use. 
 
 If poles cannot be obtained, set stout stakes at each end of the 
 row where the beans are to be planted, and stretch a heavy wire at 
 bottom and top, allowing from six to seven feet between, and to 
 these wires attach strings, spacing them about two feet along the 
 row, allowing only one plant to a string. 
 
 Among Pole or Rimning Beans described in "Burpee's Annual" 
 and suited to the family garden are the following: 
 
 Burpee's Sunshine Wax, Golden Cluster, Burger's Green-Pod 
 Stringless, White Creaseback, or Best of All, Lazy Wife's, Horti- 
 cultural, Cranberry or Wren's Egg (Kentucky Wonder), Old Home- 
 stead, and Dutch Caseknife. 
 
 Among Pole Limas we recommend the Small Lima, Carolina Sieva 
 or Sewee, Early Leviathan, Challenger or Potato Lima, Burpee's 
 Giant-Podded, Ideal Large White Lima and King of the Garden 
 Lima. 
 
BEET. 
 
 37 
 
 TABLE I 
 Average Number of Days from 
 DwABF Varieties: — Days. 
 
 Pencil-Pod Black Wax, . . 48 
 Burpee's Stringless Green 
 
 Pod, 48 
 
 Early YeHpw Six Weeks, . 49 
 Extra Early Red Valentine 
 
 Improved Round Pod, . 49 
 Perfection Wax, ... 49 
 Goddard or Boston Favor- 
 ite, 60 
 
 —BEANS. 
 
 Planting to First Fair Picking. 
 Dwarf Varieties: — oaye. 
 
 Golden Wax, Improved, 49 
 
 Burpee's New Kidney Wax 50 
 Refugee, Extra Early, . 50 
 Refugee, Wax, .59 
 
 Round Yellow Six Weeks, 49 
 Saddleback Wax, Burpee's, 47 
 Burpee's White Wax, . . 60 
 Burpee's Bush Lima, . . 78-85 
 
 Like all other vegetables, as a green table vegetable beans are best 
 when cooked immediately after picking. A continual supply of the 
 bush snap beans may be had by selecting a variety adapted to soil 
 and climate and making small plantings every two weeks up to the 
 middle of August. 
 
 BEET (Beta vulgaris). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed to Fifty Feet of Drill. A biennial of very ancient 
 cultivation, probably a native of the Mediterranean regions of Europe, 
 North Africa and 
 Western Asia. 
 
 C tr L T u R E . — ^A 
 moderately dry and 
 rich, sandy loam 
 produces the finest 
 beeta. Fresh ma- 
 nure should never 
 be used. If the 
 land has not been 
 heavily manured for 
 a previous crop, 
 dress with finely 
 rotted stable ma- 
 nure, which should 
 be well worked in 
 and the soil made 
 fine. 
 
 Sow the seed 
 thinly in drills 
 
 Bubpee's Extra Earlt Tubnif Beet, 
 
38 VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 fifteen to twenty inches apart and one-half to one inch deep, pressing 
 the covering of fine soil firmly around the seed. When the first 
 pair of leaves appear thin out to four inches apart in the drills. 
 From the sowing of the seed, turnip varieties are ready for the table 
 in from fifty to sixty days. Work the soil deeply as the roots in- 
 crease in size to encourage strong growth and the forming of smooth, 
 regular roots. For general crop sow as soon as the weather is 
 settled. The supply for winter use may be planted in June and 
 July or later in the South. 
 
 Varieties. — Among the best varieties for the home garden we 
 mention the true Dark Stinson, which is particularly valuable for 
 forcing. Fine table beets of two and one-half inches in diameter 
 will have foliage scarcely five inches high, the leaves proper being 
 only three inches long, of a deep, rich red color. They can be grown 
 close together, four inches apart in the row being sufficient. The 
 roots are smooth and regular in form; the skin is dark blood-red. 
 The flash is fine-grained and free from woodiness, even when fully 
 matured. Of rich color, the beets cook dark blood-red, and remain 
 in fine condition a long time. 
 
 Columbia is a blood-red turnip variety, very early, with neat, 
 smooth skin, and of the finest quality. Burpee's Extra Early 
 Turnip is of fine globular shape, the flesh being of alternate rings of 
 light and dark pink, very tender, and sweet. It is fit for use in from 
 seven to eight weeks from sowing, and very productive. 
 
 Among other reliable varieties are Detroit Dark Red, Early 
 Model, Eclipse, Edmand's, Burpee's Improved Blood Turnip, 
 Bastian's Half Long Blood Red, and Long Smooth Blood-Red. 
 
 Early Yellow Turnip Beet is similar to the Red Turnip, except in 
 color, which is a bright yellow. It has a-fine flavor, and is deserving 
 of more general cultivation. 
 
 The Swiss Chard or Silver Beet, also known as the Large-Ribbed 
 White Silver Beet, is a distinct variety of B. ndgaris, the edible parts 
 of which are the leaves. Sown early in the spring it makes a quick 
 growth, and is ready to be used for greens sooner than any of the 
 root-developing varieties. 
 
 SUGAR BEET AND MANQEL WURZEL 
 
 (Beta vulgaris maarorhiza). 
 One Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feet of Drill. 
 Culture. — The land must be rich to produce a profitable crop. In 
 locations where these roots are extensively grown for stock-feeding, 
 
BORECOLE OS KALE. 39 
 
 complete fertilizers are used frequently, as much as from 1000 to 2000 
 pounds to the acre. For the garden, bone- 
 meal and wood-ashes may be used alone or 
 in conjunction with short, thoroughly rotted 
 manure. Under generous fertilization the 
 yield is enormous. 
 
 As an addition to the bill-of-fexe of the 
 family cow the value of sugar beets or man- 
 gels will soon be shown in the improved 
 condition of the animal and in increased 
 flow of milk. 
 
 Plant from two feet to 30 inches apart in 
 drills, one to two inches deep, in deep soil 
 made fine by thorough preparation, and thin 
 out the plants to eight inches apart in the 
 rows. Plant during May, June, or July. 
 
 The Danish Improved, Lane's Imperial 
 and Giant Half-Sugar are excellent, and 
 in good soils are very productive. The 
 Golden Ta,nkard, Golden Giant and Mam- 
 moth Prize Long Red Mangels are all 
 first-class and yield enormous crops. 
 
 BORECOLE or KALE 
 
 (Brassica oleracea sabellicd). 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed will Sow _ „ 
 
 Long Beet. 
 
 One Hundred Feet of Drill, or one Ounce of 
 
 Seed win give ahout Five Thousand Plants. Borecole or Kale is a term 
 generally applied to loose, curly or plain-leaved types of the cabbage 
 family which do not form heads, and are noted for their hardiness. 
 
 There are many sub-varieties, variously known as German Greens, 
 Scotch Kale, Sprouts, Siberian Kale, etc., all of which are derived from 
 species native to the coasts of Great Britain and Northwestern Europe. 
 Many varieties now under domestication are of very delicate flavor, 
 tender and sweet after exposure to frost, and should be much more 
 generally grown as winter vegetables. 
 
 Culture. — North of Philadelphia, kale may be sown from the middle 
 of April until early in May. Sow the seed in beds of finely prepared 
 rich soU, and cover evenly but lightly. Transplant in June, giving 
 the same general cultivation as cabbage. In this latitude and to the 
 South, seed may be sown in September in drills two and a half feet 
 
40 VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 apart ; thin out to from four to twelve inches apart, according to the 
 variety planted, and cover with litter during the winter. 
 
 In the family garden the rows may he one foot apart, and the plants 
 should have the same culture as spinach. If taken up hefore severe 
 frosts, kale may be trenched in up to the lower leaves and then cov- 
 ered with straw ; in this condition it will keep fresh and crisp during 
 vfinter. In the Southern States, where kale is now grown in large 
 quantities for Northern Markets, the more hardy varieties remain 
 
 DwARr German Curled Kale. 
 
 sweet and tender the entire winter. Eeady for the table in from one 
 hundred to one hundred and thirty days. 
 
 Varietieb. — -Dwarf German, Tall Green Curled Scotch, and 
 Dwarf Siberian are fully described in "Burpee's Annual." 
 
 BROCCOLI {Brassiea oleracea ; Var. Botrylia cavliflora). 
 
 One Third of an Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feel of Drill, or One 
 Ovmce of Seed Will Produce about three Thousand Plants. Broccoli is 
 a cultivated variety of the wild cabbage closely related to cauliflower, 
 which it probably antedated in cultivation. The improved varieties 
 of more modern introduction are scarcely distinguishable from the 
 cauliflower, but the plants are generally of taller growth with stiffer 
 and more numerous leaves, while the heads are smaller and more di- 
 vided than the cauliflower. 
 
 CULTUBB. — Like cabbage and cauliflower, broccoli thrives best in 
 deep, rich, moist soil and in cool weather. The seeds should be sown 
 at the same time and the plants receive the same general culture, as 
 cabbage. Completes its growth from seed in from one hundred and 
 twenty to one hundred and forty-flve days. 
 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS— CABBAGE. 
 
 41 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS {Brassica oleracea hullata). 
 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feet of Row. One 
 Ounce of Seed will Produce about Forty-five Hundred Plants. A mem- 
 ber of the Cabbage family deserving of more general cultivation as a 
 winter vegetable. It is an annual, 
 indigenous to Europe, and in its 
 native habitat is widely distributed, 
 especially near the sea. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seed in May or 
 June in the same manner as for late 
 Cauliflower, in fine but not over-rich 
 soil. Transplant in July or early Au- 
 gust into rich, strong soil ; the rows 
 should be one and a half feet apart 
 and the plants one foot from each other 
 in the rows. Keep free from weeds ; 
 the surface soil should be kept well 
 cultivated to prevent evaporation. 
 Matures in 140 to 150 days from seed. 
 
 Vakieties.— Eprfection and Paris 
 Market are desirable varieties. Long 
 Island Improved is now one of the 
 popular varieties, while Burpee's 
 Danish Prize, a recent introduction, 
 has a long stalk thickly set with 
 handsome large sprouts. 
 
 Beussels Spkouts. 
 
 CABBAGE {Brassica oleracea). 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed will Plant One Hundred Feet of Drill, 
 and Produce about Fifteen Hundred Plants. The genus Brassica is 
 believed to be of European and Siberian origin. From the aboriginal 
 species are derived all our modern varieties of cabbage, cauliflower, 
 rape, colza, and turnips, including the sub-varieties of Swedes or ruta 
 bagas, kohlrabi, etc. The parent species abounds on the Siberian 
 coast, along the shores of the Scandinavian peninsula, British Isles, 
 and Western Europe. Our cultivated varieties of Cabbage, Borecole, 
 Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts have a common origin in the wild cab- 
 bage, a perennial plant still found growing in rocky places by the sea- 
 shore in Great Britain, Ireland, the Channel Islands on the Danish 
 coast, and in several places on the northern shores of the Mediterraf 
 
42 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 nean. Unquestionably, the date of cultivation was very ancient, and 
 the vyild plant was probably gathered as food by man long before 
 its domestication. 
 
 CuLTUEB. — Cabbage succeeds best in cool, moist climates, and in 
 rather heavy, friable loams with gravelly subsoil. Good crops can, 
 however, be grown on light, sandy soils, or even on heavy clays, pro- 
 vided the latter is under-drained and made fine and loose by thorough 
 cultivation. Whatever the character of the land large quantities of 
 rotted stable manure alone, or in connection vrith fine bone meal and 
 wood ashes, should be used. Th^ cabbage is a gross feeder and lime- 
 consuming plant. The presence of an abundance of lime, as is supplied 
 in bone-meal and wood-ashes, in well-worked, porous soil plentifully 
 
 stocked with organic 
 matter, furnishes ideal 
 conditions for the 
 growth of the crop. 
 There need be no fear of 
 making the land too 
 rich. The quantity of 
 fertilizing material used 
 by some of our best mar- 
 ket gardeners may seem 
 astonishing, but it is not 
 infrequently the case 
 that $100 in manures is 
 spread over an acre of 
 ground before the plants 
 are set. Whether for 
 an early or late crop, 
 continuous cultivation, from the sowing of the seed until the heads 
 are well on toward maturity, is essential to success. 
 
 Plant the Best Seed. — The cost of seed is a mere trifle and can hardly 
 be said to enter into the cost of producing a crop ; yet the quality of 
 the seed is a deciding factor between profit and loss. For this reason 
 plant only the best strains of seed, regardless of the cost. 
 
 Early Cahiage. — About the middle of February sow seed in the 
 greenhouse or hotbed for early summer cabbage. Sow in raws 10 to 
 12 inches apart and cover with half an inch of soil, which firm well 
 down on the seed. When the plants appear keep dusted with tobacco 
 •dust, to prevent injury by the flea-beetle. As growth proceeds the 
 plants should be gradually hardened by taking off the sash and ex- 
 
 W/flTi EC 3\i ritv 
 
 BuEPEE's All Head Early Cabbage. 
 
CABBAGE. 
 
 43 
 
 posing them to the outside air. Transplant to the open ground in 
 March or April. Set the plants in rows three feet apart and from 20 
 to 24 inches apart in the rows. Early cabbage is ready for the table 
 in about one hundred to one hundred and five days from the time of 
 seed sowing. 
 
 Late Cabbage. — Late autumn and winter varieties may be sown from 
 June to the beginning of July, and transplanted when about six inches 
 high. A plot on which early potato&s or Peas have been grown may 
 be cleared off in time to set the late plants. The best time for trans- 
 planting is on a cloudy but not very hot day. Mr. Lupton, in his 
 little book, "Cabbage and Cauliflower for Profit," gives excellent 
 
 £!^V 
 
 FOTTLEB'S EaBLY BRUNSWICK GaBBASB, 
 
 advice for transplanting the late plants. He says, "One of the best 
 rules is, never to wait for rain. The labor of setting the plants 
 with water means extra expense, but it proves a valuable invest- 
 ment." 
 
 In setting plants at any time, except immediately after a ram, 
 loosen them in the seed-bed with a pitchfork before pulling them, and 
 when pulled, dip the roots in water, and keep quite moist until set. 
 Use a stick four or five feet long and two and a half inches in diameter 
 to make the hole at each planting place. Into each hole pour about a 
 half pint of water, and firmly puddle in the jflant. Over the wet earth 
 sprinkle a handful or two of dry soil, to prevent evaporation. South 
 of Philadelphia (latitude 40) sow from the middle of September, or 
 later, according to latitude, and transplant into cold frames where the 
 
44 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 plants will not withstand the winter in the open ground. Set out in 
 the open ground early in the spring. 
 
 Insects. — The "Wavy-striped Flear-heetle, Cabbage Aphis, Cabbage 
 Maggot, Cabbage Borer, Eed Spider, Zebra Caterpillar, Harlequin Cab- 
 bage-Bug, Cabbage Mamestra, Imported aud Native Cabbage Worms, 
 are the chief insect enemies of the Cabbage. For the flea-beetle begin 
 to use tobacco dust as soon as the plants appear above the ground. For 
 the Aphis use lierosene emulsion, one part to 20 of water. The 
 maggots in the ground are readily killed by injecting into the soil 
 a little bisulphide of carbon, while apiece of tarred paper placed around 
 the stem of the young plant is fairly effective in preventing the maggots 
 
 fromreachingtheroots. 
 For the various worms 
 which infest the 
 leaves, pyrethrum 
 powder and kerosene 
 emulsion are the safest 
 remedies. Our little 
 book, " Injurious In- 
 sects and the Use of 
 Insecticides, " gives 
 complete directions for 
 destroying these pests. 
 To preserve cabbage 
 during winter pull 
 them in dry weather 
 and store in a cool 
 cellar or bury them 
 in the open ground 
 with the head down- 
 ward. Late cabbage matures in from one hundred and forty to one 
 hundred and sixty days from planting the seed. 
 
 Vaeibtiks. — Among standard varieties described in "Burpee's 
 Seed Annual" we especially recommend Early Jersey Wakefield, 
 Fottler's Early Drumhead, or Short Stem Brunswick, Early Winnig- 
 stadt, Copenhagen Market and Burpee's All Head Early. Among 
 late cabbages are Burpee's Surehead, Short Stem Drumhead, Danish 
 Ball Head, Danish Round Head and Autumn King. Among Drum- 
 head Savoys we recommend Perfection Drumhead, and among red 
 cabbages Mammoth Rock Red and Large Red Drumhead. 
 
 BUKFIX'S SUBEHEAD CABBAGE, 
 
CABBOT. 
 
 45 
 
 Short Soen, ob Eakly Scarlet Horn Carrot. 
 
 CARROT {Dauevs carota.) 
 One Ounce of Seed vjill Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. A biennial, 
 iadigeuons to Europe, believed by some botanists tqhave been derived 
 from the common wild carrot, and by others thought to have its pa- 
 rentage in a distinct 
 aboriginal species. 
 
 CuLTDEE.— Car- 
 rots thrive best in a 
 warm, sandy soil 
 which has been 
 heavily manured for 
 a previous crop. For 
 an early supply sow 
 the seed in drills 
 fifteen to eighteen 
 inches apart and half 
 an inch deep. Sow 
 aa soon as the ground can be worked and firm the soil well upon the 
 seed ; thin out the young plants to from four to six inches apart. 
 
 The seed germinates slowly and for this reason was formerly mixed 
 with damp sand or loam several days before planting. For late 
 
 crops sowings may be 
 made from May until 
 the latter part of 
 July. With late 
 plantings the seed 
 should be covered 
 with one inch of soil. 
 For field culture sow 
 in drills from two to 
 three feet apart and at 
 the rate of from two 
 to three pounds to 
 the acre. As soon as 
 the plants are fairly 
 up, thin out and keep 
 well culti vated. 
 Forcing varieties are ready for the table in ninety-five to one hundred 
 days ; later sorts in one hundred and ten to one hxmdred and twentj! 
 days. 
 
 Ox-heart Carrot. 
 
46 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TEE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Vaeieties. — The Short Horn or Early Scarlet Horn is one of the most 
 popular of early carrots, but the Early Very Short Scarlet, or Golden 
 Ball is perhaps the earliest in cultivation. The Ox-heart or Guerande, 
 Danvers Half Long, Burpee's Improved Long Orange, Saint Valery 
 or New Intermediate, and Chantenay or "Model" are good garden 
 varieties. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracea boirytis.) 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill 
 and Produce from One Thousand to Fifteen Hundred Plants. As is the 
 case with most of our garden vegetables the history of the cauliflower 
 is unknown, but it is believed to have originated in Italy, and to have 
 been very greatly improved by the Dutch, Danish and English gardeners. 
 
 In the cauliflower the 
 flower stems have been 
 so modified by selec- 
 tion as to become trans- r 
 formed into a thick 
 fleshy mass, the growth 
 of which is produced at 
 the expense of the flow- 
 ers, which are absorbed 
 and rendered abortive. 
 Unlike other species of 
 the genus, the cauli- 
 flower is of annual 
 duration. 
 
 CuLTUEB. — For ear- 
 ly summer use sowings 
 may be made at the same time and in precisely the same manner as 
 for early cabbage. It is not advisable to attempt to grow a mid-sum- 
 mer crop, as heads will not develop in hot, dry weather. The late 
 crop should be sown at the same time as for the corresponding crop of 
 cabbage, and have exactly the same treatment. Keep the young 
 plants free from insects by the use of pyrethrum powder or tobacco 
 dust. Cauliflower is ready for the table in from one hundred and 
 five to one hundred and fifteen days from the sowing of the seed. 
 
 Cauliflower requires even a richer soil than cabbage, and a plentiful 
 supply of water ; or, what is better for the few plants required for the 
 home garden, a rich manure liquor, made by soaking about a bushel 
 of rotted manure, confined in an old gunny bag, in a barrel of water. 
 
 Best Eakly Cauliflower. 
 
CELERY. 
 
 47 
 
 The manure may be renewed from time to time as its soluble compo- 
 nents are exhausted. Thus treated, the soil is kept damp and well 
 stocked with soluble food, which will insure a generous supply of 
 large, half-globular shaped heads of the most delicious flavor. "When 
 these have attained a diameter of four or five inches, draw the leaves 
 over the heads, and pin or tie them together in order to protect the 
 white, fleshy hj^ds ficom sun, wind, and rain. 
 
 Should some of €he plants fail to head before the ground freezes, 
 take them up with a large ball of earth attached to the roots and put 
 them into a cold ftame or cellar, where small, tender heads will form 
 during winter. 
 
 Vabietibs. — We recommend for home planting Burpee's Best Early 
 Cauliflower. It is remarkable both for extra earliness and certainty to 
 head. The growth is • 
 
 dwarf compact, with up- 
 right growing leaves and 
 with large snow-white, 
 almost globular-shaped 
 heads. The Early Snow- 
 ball is also extensively 
 planted. It is of dwarf 
 habit and under favorable 
 conditions nearly every 
 plant will make a fine 
 solid head of good size. 
 The Extra Early Dwarf 
 Erfurt of an extra selected 
 strain is very dwarf in 
 habit of growth, with pure 
 white heads of superior 
 
 quality. Planted the first of March, heads, nine to twelve inches in 
 diameter, will be ready early in June. 
 
 CELERY {Apiwm graveolem). 
 
 One-third of an Ovmce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. 
 From Two Hundred and Fifty to Five Hundred Plants are ample for the 
 Family Garden. A fibrous, fleshy-rooted biennial which must have 
 been under domestication from very early times, since its use as an 
 article of diet is mentioned in the Homeric poems. 
 
 The wild species ranges from Sweden to Algeria, Egypt, Abyssinia 
 and in Asia from the Caucasus to the mountains of British India. The 
 
 Eaklibbt Dwakf Beitet Caclii'lowbe. 
 
48 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 wild plant abounds in marshes and on wet lands near the sea in the 
 British Isles and Southern Europe. 
 
 Our modern garden varieties have their parentage in two wild 
 species, one with red and the other with white stalks. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — Mr. Greiner's method of culture for the family garden, 
 as given in his recent book, " Celery For Profit," is briefly as follows : 
 " In the latter part of February fill a fiat box or large flower pot with 
 nice, clean, mellow loam well pressed down and firmed. Apply water 
 enough to make the soil quite moist ; then sow the seed either broad- 
 cast or in narrow rows, rather thickly, and sift just a little sand or 
 fine soil over it, firming well afterward. Cover 
 the box or pot with a single thickness of light 
 paper or cloth to keep the soil dark and moist, 
 and set it in the kitchen or sitting room vmi- 
 dow, or in any place having a comfortable but 
 moderate temperature. A hothouse with bot- 
 tom heat would be a still better place for it. 
 About ten days after sowing the seed will begin 
 to sprout. Remove the paper or cloth cover 
 and gradually get the plants accustomed to the 
 light and air. Always water promptly, never 
 letting the soil become thoroughly dry, yet at 
 the same time carefully avoiding the opposite 
 extreme. Next transplant the young seedlings 
 into other boxes or flats * * * make the 
 rows three inches apart and set the plants one- 
 half to three-fourths of an inch apart in the 
 rows. * * * 
 
 ' ' A furrow or two may be opened on a vacant 
 strip or between crops of quick growth that we 
 know will be off by July, such as early peas, 
 radishes, early lettuce, bunching onions, etc. 
 Fill these furrows with fine, rich old compost (if containing a portion 
 of poultry manure all the better), and then mix this compost and the 
 soil well together. * * * Firm the soil well and smooth the surface 
 with hoe and rake. * * * Cut ofl" the ends of both roots and 
 tops as illustrated in the Figure. Set the plants about five inches 
 apart in a straight line, pressing the soil firmly about the roots of each 
 plant. " The rows should be from three to four feet apart. 
 
 The seed may also be sown in the open ground, as soon as the soil 
 can be conveniently worked. Select moderately rich, finely prepared 
 
CELERY. 
 
 49 
 
 soil and before sowing firm the soil down with a spade or garden roller. 
 Sow thinly in drills, one foot apart and ftom one^luarter to one-half 
 an inch deep. Firm the soil well over the seed. The plants to 
 make deep root growth should be started from one-half to three-fourths 
 of an inch apart, and the tops be trimmed once or twice to induce a 
 sturdy, stocky growth. In June or July transplant in rows three feet 
 apart for dwarf,, and four feet .apart for the larger varieties. Set the 
 plants six inches apart in rows or trenches six inches deep and one 
 foot wide, filled in with rich compost. Trim oflf the leaves and roots 
 before setting out and tread the soil firmly about the roots. The 
 plants should begin vigorous grovrth at once, and in about six weeks, or 
 when nearly full grown, should be "earthed up." The earthing 
 
 "Winter Queen" Celeet. 
 
 up process must be carefully done. Begin by gathering the leaves, 
 in one hand and with the other draw the soil around the stalks, so 
 that it cannot reach the heart of the plant. In a few days draw up 
 4 
 
50 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 more earth; this should be repeated from time to time until only the 
 top leaves are left uncovered. 
 
 The self-blanching sorts require the same treatment, not to blanch 
 them, but to remove the strong, unpleasant taste, and to make them 
 tender. 
 
 Celery requires from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and 
 aeventy-five days from seed to table. , 
 
 Varieties. — ^Among the best for the family garden are the 
 Golden Self-Blanching, White Plume, Giant White Solid, Giant 
 Pascal, Winter Queen, and Dwarf Large-Ribbed or "Kalamazoo." 
 
 The Golden Self -Blanching is' one of the best celeries in cultivation. 
 It was first introduced by u6»from France in 1884 and has been grow- 
 ing in popular favor ever since. It is of close, compact habit of 
 growth, with straight, vigorous stalks, which are perfectly solid, 
 crisp, brittle and of delicious flavor. Without banking up or any 
 covering whatever they become of a rich golden yellow color. The 
 White Plume is one of the earliest celeries, but it does not keep longer 
 than Christmas. Like the Golden Self -Blanching, the stalks and 
 portions of the inner leaves and heart are white. The Giant Pascal 
 is the best winter celery in cultivation. It partakes of the rich, 
 nutty flavor pecuhar to the Golden Self-Blanching, and is absolutely 
 free from bitter taste. 
 
 Celeriac, or Turnip=Rooted Celery. 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. Celeriac is 
 little grown in America, hut in Germany it is a favorite vegetable. 
 The root is the edible part, which is cooked like turnips, and then sliced 
 and soaked in vinegar. 
 
 CuLTUBE. — Sow in drills from one to two feet apart, and thin out to 
 six inches asunder in the rows. Sowings should be made at the same 
 time, and the plants given the same general cultivation as common 
 celery. The bulbs may be earthed up four inches high when two or 
 more inches in diameter. To keep through the winter cover with earth 
 and straw, like beets, or store in the cellar in damp sand. 
 
 CHICORY [Oichorivm intybns). 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. Wild Chicoiy 
 is a perennial, native to Europe and Asia, and naturalized in this 
 country, where it is a common wayside weed. The roots are fleshy, 
 somewhat resembling those of the Dandelion, to which family Chicory 
 belongs. 
 
COLLARDS. 51 
 
 Culture. — ^Early in spring sow the seed in rather light, rich soil, 
 in drills 12 to 15 inches apart, and cover to a depth of one-half an 
 inch. Thin out the young plants to six inches apart. Give the same 
 general culture as the carrot. The roots are dried and ground, and 
 used as a substitute for coffee. The Large-rooted or Coffee is the 
 variety most grown in the United States. 
 
 Witloof or I^arge Brussels Chicory is grown solely for its blanched 
 leaves, which are formed in a head Uke cos lettuce. Sow seed as 
 directed for the ordinary Chicory, allowing the plants to grow on 
 until frost, when the roots should be taken up, trimmed, placed in a 
 trench or box sixteen to eighteen inches deep, and covered with soil, 
 burying the roots about eight inches-deep. If quicker growth is 
 desired, cover surface of soil with manure to a depth of sixteen inches 
 to three feet, and in a month's time remove this covering, when the 
 blanched heads will be found ready for use. 
 
 COLLARDS (Brassica oleracea, var.). 
 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill; 
 one Ounce of Seed will Produce about Five Thousand Plants. A va- 
 riety of cabbage known as "Greens," "Colewort," and "Cole," 
 which, under the climatic conditions of the South, has assumed a 
 type quite distinct from that grown in the cool, moist climates of 
 northern latitudes. 
 
 Culture. — In the North, sow from June until the middle of 
 August; in the South from January to May, and from August to 
 October. Culture is precisely the same aa fpr cabbage. Ready for 
 the table in from eighty to ninety-five days from sowing the seed. 
 The variety most grown in the Southern States is the Georgia Col- 
 lard. It forms a mass of leaves on a tall stem, and in the South con- 
 tinues to grow all winter. 
 
 CHIVES {Allium schcenoprasum). 
 
 One or Two Bunches are Sufficient for a Family Garden. A hardy 
 perennial, native to temperate Europe and Siberia. It is a member of 
 the onion tribe, and is grown for the tops, which appear very early in 
 the spring, and are used generally in the raw state for seasoning. 
 
 Culture. — Chives grow in thick tufts, and are always propagated 
 by division, which may be eflfected either in autumn or spring. The 
 usual practice is to set out a bed in March or April. The divided 
 roots should be placed from eight to twelve inches apart. Make a 
 new planting every three years. The tops appear very early in the 
 spring, and may be shorn throughout the season as needed. 
 
52 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE SOME GABDEN. 
 
 CORN SALAD or VETTICOST {Valerianella oliUma). 
 Three Ounces of Seed will Plant One Hundred Feet of Drill. An 
 annual of the valerian family, used as a salad during winter and early 
 spring. It is found growing wild throughout Europe to 60° north 
 latitude, also in North Africa and Asia Minor. 
 
 CuLTUBB. — Sow the seed during August or Septemlier in rich soil, - 
 in shallow drills not over one-fourth of an inch deep and abont one 
 
 foot apart ; tread in 
 the seed, and after the 
 plants appear keep 
 clear of weeds. On 
 the approach of winter 
 give a light protection 
 of straw or leaves, 
 Seed may be sown in 
 the same manner early 
 in the spring. In warm 
 weather it is ready for 
 use in iiom four to six 
 weeks from planting the seed. Corn Salad is also known as Lamb's 
 Lettuce. Matures in from sixty to sixty-five days. The Large Round-, 
 leaved, large-seeded variety is the best suited to garden culture. 
 
 Lakge Round-leaved Cokn Salad. 
 
 SWEET CORN {Zea saeeharatum). 
 
 From One-fourth to One-half Pint of Seed will Plant One Himdred Hills. 
 Indian corn is a native of South America and was probably first culti- 
 vated by a semi-civilized agricultural people occupying the high table 
 lands of New Granada. 
 
 De Candolle expresses the opinion that the unknown primitive form 
 of maize had its habitation in the high regions of Chili and Mexico, 
 and was diffused during 
 the migrations of the 
 aboriginal tribes, pre- 
 ceding the ancient Pe- 
 ruvians on the Western 
 slopes of the Cordil- 
 leras in South America, 
 and by the predecessors 
 of the Toltecs and Aztecs in Mexico. There is an old Indian tradition 
 that Nahuatl, Chief of the Nahuas, who occupied Mexico before the 
 rise of the Aztec power, taught to his people the cultivation of maize. 
 
 Impeoved Ne Plds Ultra or Country 
 Gentleman. 
 
SWEET CORN. 
 
 53 
 
 The origin of sweet com is unknown, but it is said to have been 
 found by ofiSicers of the expedition, commanded by General Sullivan, 
 sent against the Indians of Western New York, in 1779. 
 
 CuLTUBE. — A warm, alluvial, but not 
 heavy loam produces the finest Sweet 
 Corn. The ground should be enriched 
 with well rotted manure and deeply 
 worked before planting. 
 
 For the short varieties plant in hills 
 three feet apart, and for the tall sorts four 
 feet apart each way. Plant a half dozen 
 kernels to the hill ; cover early varieties 
 with one inch, and late ones with one 
 and a half inches of soil. Tread upon 
 the hill to compact the earth firmly on 
 the seed ; thin out to three plants to a 
 hill. 
 
 Plantings may also be made in rows 
 four and a half feet apart and the kernels 
 dropped from eight to twelve inches apart. 
 
 Give frequent but shallow cultivation, 
 until in tassel. 
 
 In the vicinity of Philadelphia plant- 
 ings are made from the first to the tenth 
 of May and until the last of July. In 
 the Southern States planting begins a 
 month earlier and continues a month later. 
 
 Successive plantings should be made 
 about every two weeks until within sixty 
 days of frost. 
 
 For the later plantings select the quick 
 ripening varieties. 
 
 Vaeibties. — More than fifteen relia- 
 ble sorts are fully described in "Burpee's 
 Seed Annual." Among the very ear- 
 liest varieties we recommend for the 
 family garden, Early Fordhook, Burpee's 
 Golden Bantam and Howling Mob. 
 Highly prized later sorts are Country Eablt^oebhoc^^Sw^etC^^^^^ 
 
 Gentleman, Mammoth Late, Stowell's 
 
 Evergreen and Burpee's White Evergreen. The latter is unques- 
 
54 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 tionably the best for the main garden crop. It is very tender, 
 sugary, and remains for a long time in condition suitable for cook- 
 ing. 
 
 TABLE II.— SWEET CORN. 
 Average Number of Days from Planting to First Fair Picking. 
 
 Varieties: — Days. 
 Adams Extra Early or Bur- 
 lington, 65 
 
 Black Mexican, 85 
 
 Burpee's White Evergreen, 88 
 
 Burpee's Sheffield, .... 68 
 
 Burpee's Cosmopolitan, , 65 
 
 Cory, Extra Early, ... 57 
 
 Country Gentleman, ... 85 
 
 Varieties: — Days. 
 
 Early Fordhook, 63 
 
 Early Twelve-Rowed, Cros- 
 by's, 68 
 
 Evergreen, Stowell's, 
 Golden Bantam, . 
 Mammoth, Late, . 
 Minnesota, Early, . 
 Burpee's White Evergreen 
 
 88 
 60 
 95 
 65 
 88 
 
 In a favorable and fast growing season the time will be shortened 
 by several days, while in a cold, slow growing season the time would 
 be longer. 
 
 JS^To have the finest sweet com, it must be picked in just the 
 right condition, that is, when the skin of the grain breaks at the 
 slightest puncture, and plantings should be made frequently enough 
 always to have a supply at this stage. 
 
 CRESS— Pine Curled Cress or Pepper Grass 
 
 {Leipidium sativum). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed mil Plant Two Hundred Feet of DriU. The original 
 home of this hardy little annual is unknown, but by De CandoUe it is 
 thought to be a native of Persia. 
 
 Culture. — Sow thickly in the spring, as soon as the ground is in 
 good working order, and as the plants rapidly run to seed repeat sow- 
 ings at intervals of about every two weeks. The drills should he 
 from six inches to a foot apart and about one-fourth of an inch deep. 
 Eeady for the table from seed in from twenty-one to forty days. 
 
 Varieties. — Fine Curled or Pepper Grass has a pleasant, pungent 
 flavor, somewhat resembhng Water Cress. 
 
 WATER CRESS {Nasturtium officinale). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow a Plot Sixteen Feet Square. A hardy per- 
 ennial, indigenous to Great Britain and naturalized in the United States. 
 
 CuLTUEK.^It succeeds only in very damp soil on the borders of 
 ponds or streams, or where its roots are at least partially submerged in 
 water. Seed should be sown the same as Fine Curled Cress, along the 
 
CUCUMBER. 
 
 55 
 
 borders of a rimning stream, or near the overflow of a spring. A 
 packet or two of seed will usually be sufficient for a family. If planted 
 in suitable soil the plants are rapidly 
 propagated by root extension and self- 
 seeding. May be used in from three to 
 four weeks after sowing the seed. 
 
 CUCUMBER (Cucvmis salious). 
 
 From One to Two Ounces of Seed will 
 Plant One Hundred Sills. There are 
 iinder cultivation several distinct types 
 of this annual, of which the Common 
 Cucumber and West India Gherkin are 
 the most important. 
 
 The original home of the cucumber is 
 anknown, but was probably Northwest- 
 ern India. The West India Gherkin has 
 been thought by many botanists to be of 
 American origin, but Sir Joseph Hooker 
 thinks it a cultivated and modified form 
 of some Afirican species introduced by 
 the negroes, and like many other plants, 
 naturalized in the new world. 
 
 Culture. — A warm, light, sandy soil, 
 rich in organic matter, affords the best 
 . conditions of growth for the cucumber. 
 
 For very early use sow in the hotbed 
 or greenhouse in February or March, 
 upon upturned pieces of sod six inches 
 square, placed in small boxes, and cov- 
 ered vfith an inch of very rich, light 
 soil. Plant six seeds on each square of 
 sod, and cover with half an inch of rich 
 soil ; place the seed in a vertical position 
 with the germ end down. When the 
 weather is settled and danger of frost 
 over, transplant the contents of each box 
 to the open ground without disturbing the roots of the young plants. 
 Plant in hills six by four feet apart, and previous to setting the 
 plants mix with the soil of each hill a large shovelful of well rotted 
 manure. 
 
 Burpee's Giant Pera. 
 
56 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 To protect the tender plants from the Striped Cucumber Beetle dust 
 the leaves with land plaster, air-slacked lime, soot or wood ashes 
 mixed with fine, dry, sifted earth. Sprinkling with. Paris green in 
 water — a half teaspoonful to a pail of water — is also effective. Poisons 
 should not be used on the vines after the fruits begin to form. For 
 the Cucumber Flea Beetle, powdered tobacco may be dusted over the 
 vines. 
 
 After the Striped Beetles begin to disappear thin out to three strong 
 plants to a hill. For a succession sow seed every two weeks in the 
 open garden from the middle of May until the last of July. Plant 
 from six to eight seeds to a hill and thin out to three or four plants. 
 Give frequent but shallow cultivation until the vines have taken pos- 
 session pJ the groimd. Care should be taken when cultivating or 
 hoeing as well as when gathering the fruits not to bruise or injure 
 the vines, as they are quite tender and are apt to die oflf if injured in 
 any way. The cucumbers or pickles should be carefully cut from 
 the vine with a sharp knife so as not to twist the vines. Earliest 
 
 BcBPEE'a ExTBA Eablt White Spine Cuchmbeb, 
 
 varieties are ready for the table in from fifty to fifty-five days from 
 seed; main crop in from sixty-five to severity-five days. 
 
 Varieties. — All the best sorts are described in "Burpee's Seed 
 Annual." Among those especially worthy of garden culture are Im- 
 proved Early White Spine or Arlington, Burpee's Extra Early White 
 Spine, Fordhook White Spine, Fordhook Famous, Early Green 
 Prolific or Boston Pickling, Burpee's Giant Pera, London Long 
 Green, Fordhook Pickling and Cumberland Pickling. 
 
DANDELION— EQG PLANT. 57 
 
 DANDELION {Taraxacum, dena-leonis). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. A perennial, 
 native to Europe but naturalized throughout America. Though Uie 
 wild dandelion of our pastures is a troublesome and persistent weed, 
 the forms derived from it by cultivation provide a desirable and 
 wholesome spring salad. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — Sow as soon as the land can be worked, in very rich soil, 
 in drills from twelve to sixteen inches apart. Cover the seed with from 
 one-fourth to one-half an inch of soil, which should be well firmed 
 down with the feet or hack of the hoe. Thin out the young plants to 
 from two to four inches apart in the rows. Keep clear of weeds and 
 give shallow cultivation the first season ; the plants will be ready to 
 cut the next spring. 
 
 The leaves, which are the edible parts, are best when blanched ; this 
 is easily accomplished by covering the plants with inverted flower-pots 
 or by placing two boards over the rows, thus A- This excludes the 
 light and renders the leaves tender and less bitter. The roots are used* 
 as an adulterant for coffee and for medicinal purposes. The Improved 
 Large-leaved Dandelion is a, very early variety, which if sown in 
 spring is ready early the next season for use as greens. 
 
 EGQ PLANT {Solanum melongena). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow TJiree Hundred Feet of Drill, or Produce 
 from One Thousand to Two TJiousand Plants. An annual/ native of 
 tropical South America, probably Peru, where the wild plant is said to 
 grow in damp or swampy places. The Egg Plant is largely used in all 
 tropical countries as an article of food. 
 
 Cdltdee. — In the Northern States sow the seed under glass about 
 March first, in finely prepared, moderately rich soil. As the seed 
 germinates slowly and the ilant is of tropical origin, it should be 
 started in strong heat, and near the glass, to insure stocky plants. 
 When two or three inches high transplant to four-inch pots or boxes, 
 which keep surrounded by earth. As the days become warmer "it is 
 ossential to keep the bed shaded from the direct rays of the sun. This 
 is most readily done with frames covered with seed-bed cloth, or by 
 the use of boards. Keep warm and abundantly supplied with moist- 
 ure until near the time for planting out, when water should be gradu- 
 ally withheld, and the plants exposed to air and sunlight to harden 
 them. About the time for planting Sweet Corn, when the weather 
 has become warm and settled, transfer to the garden. The plants 
 
S8 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME QABDEN. 
 
 should be set two and a half to three feet apart each way, in soil made 
 very fine and- rich ; under each plant place a shovelful of rotted 
 manure or rich compost. If the sun is hot shade for a few days, and pre- 
 vent ravages of the Colorado Potato Beetle by dusting the plants with 
 Paris green. Egg Plant is ready for the table in from one hundred and 
 forty-five to one hundred and sixty days from the planting of the seed. 
 
 N. Y. Improved Larsb Furplb Egg PiiAUT. 
 
 Varieties. — Burpee's "Black Beauty" is the earliest and best 
 of all the large fruiting varieties, but truckers in certain localities 
 still prefer the older New York Improved Large Purple. 
 
 ENDIVE {Cichorium, endivia). 
 
 One-fourth to One-half Ounce of Seed mill Soto One Hundred Feet of 
 Drill. A species of Chicory, of annual duration in America, probably 
 a native of the East Indies. In Europe, where the plant is highly 
 esteemed for culinary purposes, it is a hardy annual and biennial. 
 
 CULTUKE. — Being a plant of rapid growth and very hardy. Endive 
 can be grown at almost any season. It does best in a moist, well worked 
 
HOSSJE BAiyiSB. 59 
 
 and rich soil. Sow the seed thinly in drills one foot apart, and one-fonrth 
 of an inch deep, as soon as the soil can be finely pulverized in spring. 
 Thin out to eight inches apart/. The plants rapidly run to seed, and 
 if a succession is wanted sow every two weeks until mid-summer. 
 
 Another method of planting is to sow seed in narrow drills under 
 glass early in spring, and when the plants are about four inches high 
 transplant to the open ground one foot apart each way. The soil 
 should be firmly compacted about the roots and the plants copiously 
 watered. A cloudy day is best for transplanting, but when the plants 
 are ready set them out and protect from the hot sun with boards or 
 anything aflbrding shade. 
 
 Whatever the method of planting keep the surface soil well aerated 
 by frequent hoeings. Before the plajits reach maturity gather the 
 outer leaves together over the tops, so as to exclude light and air from 
 the center or heart, and tie with raffia or soft thread. This process of 
 tying up the plants should be done on a clear day when the leaves are 
 perfectly dry, otherwise they will rot. In from two to four weeks the 
 inner leaves will be beautifully blanched and ready for use. A sim- 
 pler method of blanching is to use boards in the form of an inverted 
 V, thus Ai ft>i^ excluding light and air from the plants. For winter 
 use take up before freezing weather, with a large ball of earth at- 
 tached to the roots and place in a dry cold frame or cellar, away from 
 frost. 
 
 Endive makes a delicious salad and is worthy of more general culti- 
 vatton in the home garden. As an appetizing salad plant it is grow- 
 ing in favor, but in this country is as yet but little grown except by 
 professional market gardeners. It is ready for the table in from forty- 
 three to fifty days from seed. 
 
 Vaeieties. — Green Curled is the hardiest. It has ornamental 
 curled leaves of dark green color, which blanch white and crisp. 
 
 White Curled is the most beautiful variety; the leaves are not so 
 tender as those of the preceding sort. 
 
 Broad-leaved Batavian forms large heads of broad, thick leaves, used 
 
 for flavoring soups, etc. , while if blanched the inner leaves make a fine 
 
 salad. 
 
 HORSE RADISH (Cochlearia armoracia). 
 
 One Dozen Moots will he Sufficient for a Moderately-sized Family. A 
 hardy perennial, native to the temperate regions of Eastern Europe. 
 In common with many of the Cruciferse, this plant in its wild condi- 
 tion thrives near the sea, and probably for a thousand years or more 
 has been naturalized on the Western shores of Europe, from Sweden to 
 
60 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TEE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 Brittany and Spain. The plant is cultivated for its roots, which have 
 
 the pungent flavor of mustard and are used as a condiment. 
 Cdltuee. — Horse radish requires a deep,-moist and rich soil which 
 should be under the highest state of cul- 
 tivation. As no seed is produced, the plant 
 is propagated by planting "sets " or pieces 
 I of the root. Plant the sets in a slightly 
 • slanting position in rows two and a half 
 feet by one and a half feet apart, and cover 
 with two inches of soil. Give thorough 
 cultivation until the leaves completely shade 
 the ground. 
 
 To economize when land is limited, the 
 sets are planted in May between early cab- 
 bage. In such cases holes are made from 
 eight to ten inches deep and two and a half 
 feet by one and a half feet apart ; plant the 
 sets at least three inches below the surfiice. 
 The deep planting is to retard growth until 
 the cabbage is removed. If planted too early 
 or too near the surface the plants come on 
 before the cabbage is off ; in such cases the 
 
 leaves of the horse radish may be cut off with the hoe without injury. 
 
 The root makes its chief growth after mid-summer and during autumn. 
 
 KOHL RABI {Brassica oleraeea, Caulo-rapa). 
 
 One-third of an Ounce will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. Kohl Eabi 
 is a sub-variety of Braasica oleraeea, in which^ under domestication, the 
 stem above ground is swollen into a symmetrical turnip-like bulb. It 
 is a low growing, bulb-stalked cabbage, or rather is intermediate be- 
 tween the cabbage and turnip, partaking of the characters of both. 
 The plant had its origin in Germany, where it is largely cultivated 
 both for human food and as a forage crop for stock feeding. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — Sowing may be made in the open ground from February 
 to May, according to latitude. For early use in the Northern States, 
 sow in March under glass, in a finely-made seed bed and cover with half 
 an inch of soil ; transplant to rich, rather warm garden soil at the same 
 time as early cabbages. Let the rows be two by one and a half feet 
 apart. For a succession later plantings may be made about two 
 weeks apart in the open ground. The plants have a deep root system, 
 which makes them rather difficult to transplant, and besides are 
 
 HoESE Radish. 
 
LEEK. 
 
 61 
 
 liable to receive a check in growth that makes the bulb woody oi 
 
 tough. For this reason it is best to sow 
 
 the seed in drills 18 inches apart where 
 
 the plants are to grow, and thin out to 
 
 six inches. It is useless to plant for 
 
 mid-summer use, as the bulbs will not 
 
 develop normal growth in hot weather. 
 
 For late autumn and winter use sowings 
 
 may be made at the same time and in 
 
 the same manner as for late cabbage. 
 
 For either a late or an early crop give 
 
 the same general cnltfre as cabbage. 
 
 The bulbs should be used when young 
 and tender. They are prepared for the 
 table in the same manner as turnips 
 and are a most desirable and delicious 
 vegetable. 
 
 Vakieties. — Early "White and Early 
 Purple Vienna are the best for table use ; 
 for the table and for stock feeding. 
 
 Kohl Babi. 
 
 ; Green or White is used both 
 
 LEEK {Allium porrum). 
 
 One-third of an Ounce of Seed will Sow 
 One Sundred Feet of Drill. A hardy bi- 
 ennial, of Asiatic or Egyptian origin, by 
 many writers said to be a native of 
 Switzerland. The leek was anciently 
 cultivated but is not mentioned by 
 English gardeners until the middle of 
 the sixteenth century. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — The leek thrives best in a 
 light, rich, deeply worked soil, and re- 
 quires about the same cultivation as 
 the onion. , 
 
 Sow early in the spring, in drills from 
 six to 12 inches apart, and one inch deep. 
 Thin out the young plants to half an inch 
 apart. "When about six to eight inches 
 high transplant into rich, mellow soil, in 
 rows 12 inches apart ; set the roots five 
 inches apart and as deeply as possible without covering the center leaves. 
 
 Broad London Flag Leek. 
 
62 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TSE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 To obtain large, finely blanched Leeks a trench may be dug ten to 
 twelve inches deep, on the bottom of which place four inches of rotted 
 manure, and then fill to within three inches of the top with light, 
 rich soil, into which set' the roots deeply. As growth proceeds draw 
 the earth to the plants at each cultivation, making a slight ridge on 
 either side, which will effectually blanch the stalks. 
 
 Seed may also be sown in September and transplanted in the same 
 manner in early spring. 
 
 Varieties. — Desirable varieties are Broad London Flag, Long 
 Mezieres and Monstrous Carentan or Scotch Champion. The leaves 
 of the latter are fan-shaped, of a dark green color, and the edible 
 stem six to eight inches long and three inches in diameter. 
 
 LETTUCE {Lactuca sativa), 
 One-quarier of an Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill, 
 and produce about Four Thousand Plants. An annual, indigenous to Cen- 
 tral and Western Asia, North Africa and Southern Europe. Botanists 
 are agreed that our cultivated varieties have been derived from 
 
 a wild species, L. 
 scariola, still found 
 wild in temperate 
 and Southern Eu- 
 rope, the Canaries, 
 Madeira, North Af- 
 rica and the tempeiv 
 ate regions of Asia. 
 Among cultivated 
 varieties there are 
 two forms, the Cai- 
 bage and Cos Let- 
 tuces. The first 
 has nearly round, 
 closely folded leaves;, 
 forming low, flat- 
 tened heads. The 
 second is distinguished by upright growth, and elongated, somewhat 
 spoon-shaped leaves with a large chard-like mid-rib. 
 
 The latter is not a heading lettuce, but by tying at the top, the in- 
 ner leaves are readily blanched. The Cos forms get their name from 
 the island of Cos in the Grecian Archipelago, where these varieties had 
 their origin. 
 
 IcEBEKs Lettuce. 
 
LETTUCE. 
 
 63 
 
 The marked differences in growth between the Cabbage and Cos 
 Lettuces have led some writers into the error of referring our culti- 
 vated varieties to two distinct botanical types. " We find it difficult 
 to assent to this view of a twofold origin ; " says MM. Vilmorin- 
 Andrieux, "in the first place because the two kinds pass into each 
 other through almost imperceptible gradations ; and, secondly, be- 
 cause as soon as they run to seed, they .present no difference from each 
 other, which is the most conclusive proof of the identity of their ori- 
 gin." Lettuce is of marketable size in sixty to sixty-five days from 
 sowing the seed, but in the family garden it is fit for use in from three 
 to four weeks from planting. 
 
 CuLTUEE.^To have an unbroken succession of fresh, crisp, and 
 sweet Lettuce throughout the year, it must be grown at home, under 
 glass during winter, and in the family garden at other seasons. A 
 rather heavy, rich and moist soil is essential to rapid growth, and 
 quick growth is necessary to develop tender, appetizing lettuce. 
 
 For early spring use sow thinly under glass in February, and cover 
 very slightly vrith not more than one-fourth of an inch of fine soil. 
 
 Keep at a moderate heat and give fresh air whenever the tempera- 
 ture will permit. Transplant to irom 
 one to three inches apart in the beds, 
 or into small boxes or pots, which 
 keep imbedded in earth. Transplant 
 to the garden in rich, deeply worked 
 sou, as soon as spring work begins. 
 Set out in rows eighteen inches by six 
 inches apart. When the plants begin 
 to crowd each other, take out the alter- 
 nate ones for use. A second sowing 
 should be made in the open ground 
 at the time the first plants are set 
 out, and for a succession sow seed at 
 intervals of every two or three weeks 
 throughout the summer. 
 
 Lettuce grown during spring and 
 autumn will be more crisp and ten- 
 der than that grown in mid-summer. 
 
 However, if a piece of moist ground is at hand, and if the plants are 
 not exposed to the full heat of the sun, sweet, tender lettuce may be 
 grown even during mid-summer. For this purpose make a screen of 
 laths, nailed on a light frame the width of the laths apart ; to this 
 
 DwAEF White Heakt Cos 
 Lettuce. 
 
64 VE0ETABLE8 FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 frame have pointed legs from 30 to 36 inches long, which press down 
 into the earth over the bed. This screen will give ample protection 
 from the hot sun. 
 
 For a supply in November and December plants may be set in a 
 cold frame the last of October and protected with sash when there is 
 danger of freezing. 
 
 For a mid- winter supply sow the seed thinly in the hotbed or green- 
 house and transplant to four inches apart each way in the bed and thin 
 out as wanted, which wiU give the remaining plants plenty of room. 
 
 A method which has met 
 with much success is to 
 transplant into four -inch 
 pots which are imbedded in 
 soil. The hotbed should 
 be so located as to get 
 the full benefit of sunlight 
 Copymaifaa aji,j ^jg protected from 
 
 Tom Thumb Lettuce. north winds. There should 
 
 be an air-space of at least 
 one foot between the soil and the glass. Water sparingly but give 
 fresh air whenever possible without chilling the plants. 
 
 Vaeietibs. — More than thirty varieties adapted to garden and hot- 
 bed culture are fuUy described in "Burpee's Seed Annual." 
 
 In Burpee's Annual lettuce is classified under five types — Ear- 
 liest and Forcing, "Loosehead" or Cutting, Butterhead, "Crisp- 
 Head" and Cos; but to avoid confusion it should be borne in mind 
 that a majority of the varieties offered under the headings "Earliest 
 and Forcing" are of the Butterhead type. 
 
 The principal forcing varieties are the two Tennis Balls, Tom 
 Thumb, Burpee's EarUest Wayahead and May King. In the West 
 the Grand Rapids is most popular for growing under glass. 
 
 All the "Loosehead" or Cutting varieties are popular in certain 
 locaiities, but the favorite is Early Prize Head, which frequently 
 makes quite a large loose head. 
 
 Among the best Butterheads are The Deacon, All Seasons, Cali- 
 fornia Cream Butter, Salamander and Burpee's Butterhead. 
 
 All the "Crisp-Heads" are popular, but the finest of all is Burpee's 
 Iceberg. This variety produces heads that are always crisp, brittle 
 and mild in flavor, — the best for summer use. 
 
 Among the Cos Lettuces the EcUpse and Dwarf White Heart are 
 the best, provided a small or medium sized head is desired; the Paris 
 White produces large heads which are easily blanched. 
 
MUSHROOMS. 65 
 
 MARTYNIA (Martynia proboscidia). 
 Half an Ounce of Seed to One Hwndred Hills. A hardy and half-hardy 
 annual, indigenous to Southern Illinois and the lower Mississippi valley. 
 The seed-pods when young and tender, are used for making pickles, the 
 same as oucumhers. 
 
 ly, and plants will A Seed-pod of Maktykia 
 
 not appear until the 
 
 ground is quite warm. Leave but one stocky plant to a hUl. Ready 
 
 for use in from sixty to eighty days. 
 
 MUSHROOMS {Agaricus campestris). 
 
 8@°" Would caution amateurs against attempting to grow mush- 
 rooms on a large scale as we know of no otner crop which requires 
 so much expert knowledge to make the venture profitable, — it is 
 an established fact that even the most experienced growers fre- 
 quently suffer heavy losses on account of the failure of their crops. 
 
 One Brick will Spawn about Ten Square Feet of Bed. This, as well 
 as many other species of edible fungi, is common in nearly every 
 habitable part of the globe, and for the past 2500 years has, in som« 
 countries, been classed with the most rare of vegetable products. The 
 French have grown mushrooms very extensively for many years and 
 distributed them in cans, as we do most of our standard vegetables. 
 In this country mushrooms are now being extensively grown for mar- 
 ket purposes, in greenhouses, cellars, or underground rooms, built 
 expressly for this purpose. 
 
 The modern methods of growing mushrooms have become so simpli- 
 fied that they can be easily grown at all seasons of the year, either in 
 the greenhouse, shed, or cellar, with but little trouble, providing a 
 good supply of horse droppings can be had. But in the house cellar 
 we do not advise their cultivation, as their growth is accompanied, in 
 a great degree, by the decomposition of vegetable matters, the gases 
 arising S.om which are by no means conducive to health. In a shed, 
 where the temperature can be kept even, say at from 50 to 60 degrees, 
 mushrooms can be easily and profitably grown. 
 
 The making of a mushroom-bed is a simple matter. The first step 
 5 
 
66 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 S^MZ-^JUj: 
 
 MUSHKOOM-BED ON MaNUBE AND LIGHT LOAM. 
 
 is to procure good stable manure, with but little long straw, sufficient 
 for the size of the bed required ; let it remain in a heap for about a 
 weet, then carefully turn it over, so it will become evenly mixed ; 
 repeat the operation three times, at intervals of three days each. Care 
 should be taken at each turning to thoroughly incorporate the outside 
 with the middle of the heap ; this is to insure sweetness and even 
 moisture. After being turned over three times, if it still retains a 
 strong smell, another turning should be given, which will put it 
 
 in a good condition 
 for making into a 
 bed. Manure should 
 be always prepared 
 under a shed, or in 
 some place where 
 there is no possi- 
 bility of its getting 
 wet. After the ma- 
 nure is prepared in 
 this manner it is 
 generally considered 
 best to mix with it 
 about one-third of its bulk of fresh loam from the field or meadow that 
 has not been recently manured ; but many successful growers make up 
 the bed without any mixture of soil. As both methods are productive 
 of good results, it shows that either method is good, and that success 
 depends upoii other conditions. 
 
 We prefer a slight mixture of loam, say one-fourth of the bulk, and 
 in preparing the bed use the utmost care in mixing, in order to 
 prevent overheating. Beds are made from eight to fifteen inches 
 in depth ; the latter depth we think desirable to retain longer a mod- 
 erate heat. Pack the material firmly, and as put in, leaving the sur- 
 face even, and either somewhat rounded or sloping. When the bed is 
 completed plunge in a thermometer, which should soon indicate a 
 temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit or over ; it will soon begin to 
 decline, and when it falls to 85 or 90 degrees lay out the bed in squares 
 of twelve inches, and with a dibble make holes four inches deep, into 
 which put a piece of spawn about one inch square, covering up the 
 hole again with the compost, so it will present the same even, appear- 
 ance as before the spawn was put in. Nothing further will need to be 
 done, for ten or twelve days, by which time the spawn will have 
 "run" through the wjiole bed. Then there should be spread evenly 
 
MUSK MELON. 67 
 
 over the whole bed about two inches id. depth of fresh loam, which 
 should be thoroughly firmed down with the back of the spade, and 
 cover up the bed with three or four inches of straw or hay, which 
 completes the work of planting, and there is nothing further to be 
 done, but to attend to the proper degrees of heat and moisture. 
 
 Extremes of heat, cold, draught and moisture, should be avoided 
 in the cultivation of mushrooms. 
 
 MUSK MELON {Oucumis melo). 
 
 One to Two Ounces of Seed to One Hundred Hills. An annual, native 
 to the warmer regioas of Asia and probably to northwestern Africa. 
 De CandoUe thinks C. melo, was, at a remote period, wild from the 
 west coast of Africa to India. 
 
 A wild plant is yet found growing on the sandy lands of the Niger 
 
 Emekau) Gim Melons. (From a, Phatogrt^h.) 
 
 in Guinea, and the fruit, which is ovoid and no larger than a plum, is 
 eaten by the negroes ; this, he thinks, is derived from the same pa- 
 rent form as a wild variety, with fruit varying from the size of a plum 
 to a lemon, found in British India and Beloochistan. 
 
 The Cantaloupe derives its name from Canteloappi, an estate near 
 Bome belonging to the Pope, but had its origin in Armenia. The 
 green-fleshed mtelons or citron and the nutmeg varieties have a com- 
 mon origin in the African or Egyptian melon. 
 
 Culture. — The most congenial soil for melons is a warm sandy 
 lOam, well worked and enriched with old compost. 
 
VEGETABLES FOB TEE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Plant in very slightly raised hills four to six feet apart each way • 
 place the seeds ahout two inches apart, one inch deep and from eight 
 to twelve iu a hill. A shovelful of old compost or rotted manurC 
 should be placed in the bottom of each hill. Plantirig in the garden 
 should he delayed until all danger of frost is past, — about the time for 
 planting sweet corn— when the ground has become warm and moder- 
 ately dry, is the proper time. 
 When the young plants are no longer in danger of being destroyed by 
 
 insects, thin out to 
 three vigorous plants 
 'toahill. Cut off the 
 surplus plants just 
 below the surface so 
 as not to disturb the 
 robts of those re- 
 maining. Keep the 
 surface loose by shal- 
 low hoeing, but in 
 no case disturb the 
 roots, and never 
 work the ground 
 when the leaves Are 
 wet with dew or 
 rain. When about 
 one foot long pinch 
 off the end of the 
 main shoot, which 
 will cause the vine to put forth lateral branches and induce earlier 
 fruiting. 
 
 The best melons grown in the home garden are usually from seed sown 
 in the hotbed in pots or on inverted pieces of sod, the same as cucum- 
 bers. The sash should be removed only on clear, warm days, and 
 never in cool or cloudy weather. Give plenty of ventilation, which is 
 afforded by raising the sash about two inches above the frame. Keep 
 the soil moist, but provided with good drainage. To prevent burning 
 give the glass a light coating of oil and turpentine, — one part oil to 
 five parts of turpentine, or cover the frame with plant cloth. Earliest 
 varieties are ready for the table in from ninety, to one hundred days, 
 and the general crop in from one hundred and fifteen to one hundred 
 and forty days from planting the seed. 
 Vaeibties. — Among the many varieties we suggest the following 
 
 New Long Island Beauty Melon. 
 
MUSK MELON. 
 
 m 
 
 for the home garden: Burpee's Netted Gem, Emerald Gem, Long 
 Island Beauty, Montreal Green Nutmeg, Burpee's Champion Mar- 
 ket, Burpee's Fordhook, Burpee's Spicy, and Burpee's Melrosei 
 
 Burpee's Netted Gem was "first named and introduced hy us more 
 than thirty years ago. In shape this melon is rather oblong or ovaly 
 with green skin, regularly ribbed, and thickly netted. The melons 
 grow remarkably uniform in size, weighing from one and a quarter 
 to one and a half pounds. The flesh is thick, light green in color, 
 and of fine, luscious flavor. Of recent years this variety has be- 
 come very popular under the name Rocky Ford. 
 
 Emerald Gem since its introduction has been considered the richest 
 
 Bubpeb's New "Foedhook" MtrsK Melon. 
 
 in flavor of all sabnon-fleshed varieties, but we now have even a 
 finer sort in Burpee's Fordhook. 
 
 Montreal Green Nutmeg is the variety sold in New York at such 
 high prices late in the fall. 
 
 Burpee's New Fordhook has been pronounced equal to Emerald 
 Gem in delicious flavor. It has a rough netted skin and sohd, thick, 
 salmon flesh, making it one of the best varieties for shipping'. 
 : Burpee's Spicy Cantaloupe is of vigorous growth and wonderfully' 
 prolific, producing melons averaging nine inches long by six inches 
 In diameter. The flavor more nearly approaches the foreign, varie- 
 ties grown imder glass than any other outdoor sort., 
 
70 
 
 VEGETABLES POM THE SOME GARDEN. 
 
 WATERMELON {Oucurbita dtrullus). 
 Four Ounces of Seed to One Hundred Hills. An annual, natiTe to 
 tropical Africa and probably cultivated for more than 4000 years. 
 For ages it has been grown in the valley of the Nile and throughout 
 Southern Asia. Dr. Livingstone saw entire districts in Africa covered 
 with the wild watermelon, and reports that the savages and several 
 wild animals eagerly devoured the fruit. 
 
 CULTUEB. — Bich, rather sandy soil should be selected if possible 
 but if this is not to be had a well drained piece of loam, preferably 
 with a southern exposure, will produce fair watermelons. Cultivation 
 is about the same as for Musk Melons, but differs mainly in that 
 watermelons being of larger and stronger growth, require to be 
 planted a greater distance apart. To secure strong plants early in the 
 season make large, well drained hills from eight to ten feet apart. 
 
 Two large shovelfuls of rotted 
 manure or compost should be 
 mixed with the soil of each hill' 
 and so worked in that there will 
 be no injury to the young vines 
 from quick drying under hot suns. 
 When the soil is warm and com- 
 paratively dry plant on each hill 
 from eight to twelve seeds, about 
 three inches apart and from- one 
 to one and a half inches deep. 
 Set the seeds edgewise with the 
 eyes down. 
 
 Protect the young plants from 
 insecte with netting, or by the use 
 of dry sifted ashes sprinkled over the leaves^when wet ; hasten growth 
 by frequent applications of manure liquor, such as is recommended for 
 caiuliflower (see page 46). Thin out to form one or two strong plants 
 to each hill. The vines will fruit more abundantly by pinching off 
 the leading shoots in the same manner as with Musk Melons. Early 
 Fordhocfk is ready for the table in from ninety to one hundred days ; 
 the general crop in from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and 
 forty days from planting the seed. 
 
 Varieties. — Among many good varieties we suggest for the family 
 garden, Fordhook Early, Kleckley Sweets, Dixie, Halbert Honey, 
 Burpee's Hungarian Honey, and the Mammoth Iron Clad. 
 
 Hdngakian Honey Watermelon. 
 
WATERMELON. 
 
 n 
 
 Recent introduetions are Tom Watson, "Sugar Stick," Halbert 
 Honey and Shaker Blue. 
 
 Burpee's Mammoth Ironclad Watermelon. 
 
 For an extra early watermelon Fordhook Early undoubtedly stands 
 first. From seed -' 
 
 planted May tenth, 
 large ripe melons 
 have been picked 
 the'last week in 
 July. The outer 
 color is a uniform 
 medium green, seeds 
 white, flesh bright 
 red, and very sweet. 
 The aTerage weight 
 of the melons even 
 during an excep- 
 tionally bad season, 
 was thirty-five 
 pounds each. Bur- 
 pee's Hungarian 
 Honey is a small, ;.' 
 
 surpassirigly sweet, and luscious melon, with rich, honey flavor. The 
 
 New Watermelon.— (Dole's Eablt, 
 
72 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 fruits ripen early and the vines are very prolific. The Dixie possesses 
 the rich, luscious flavor of the old Mountain Sweet united with the 
 excellent shipping character of Kolb's Gem ; the flesh is bright scarlet, 
 very tender and juicy. It has the valuable characteristic of rooting at 
 almost every joint, thereby increasing the duration of the vine. 
 
 The Mclver Wonderful Sugar Melon is claimed to be superior to the 
 Georgia Eattlesnalce, which has been so long the favorite melon in the 
 South. -The size is uniformly large, many specimens being two feet 
 in length, and quite a number of even greater length,- while they aver- 
 age from 10 to 14 inches in diameter. They present a handsome 
 appearance, the skin showing broad bands of white, shading into 
 narrower bands of dark green ; the flesh is of a soft, pale pink, crisp, 
 free from any stringiness (even in an unfavorable season), juicy, and 
 of luscious sweetness. 
 
 Presekving Melon, or Citron.— Give the same general culture 
 as the watermelon. The Colorado is the best for preserves. 
 
 For a concise treatise on Melon Culture, see our little book, ' ' Melons 
 For Profit," compiled, from the Prize Essays and our own experience. 
 
 MUSTARD (Sinapis). 
 
 One Ounce will Sow Fifty Feet of Drill. A genus of hardy annuals, 
 probably indigenous to the Mediterranean Basin, found growing wild 
 in temperate and Southern Europe, North Africa, and the temperate 
 regions of Western Asia. 
 
 Wliite Mustard, S. alba, is universally grown by English and Gon- 
 tinental gardeners, for use as a salad, but the plant is almost unknown 
 In American gardens." This is probably due to the fact that in our 
 climates the leaves are more pungent and less fleshy, and unless used 
 when very young do not make the agreeable salad produced from the 
 same species when grown on the other side of the Atlantic. 
 
 Black Mustard, S. nigra, as well as the former species, is natural- 
 ized in this country; both are common wayside weeds. 
 
 Cyi/ruBB. — Sow thickly in shallow drills from three to six inches 
 apart, and for a succession at intervals of every few days during 
 spring. Cover lightly and press the earth well down on the seed. 
 
 When from one to two inches high the plants may be cut for salad, 
 or boiled like sprouts or spinach. If cut just when the second leaves 
 appear they make a slightly pungent and wholesome salad. 
 
 Varieties.— Wliite, New Chinese and Southern Giant Curled are 
 highly esteemed. Fordhook Fancy produces beautiful, finely cut, 
 dark green leaves, and is delicious when cooked like spinach. 
 
NASTURTIUM— OKBA OB GUMBO. 
 
 73 
 
 NASTURTIUM {TropsBOlvm). 
 
 Two Ounces of Seed will Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. A genus 
 of exceedingly ornamental annuals and perennials, native to tropical 
 South America. Two distinct species of perennial habit in their native 
 country, Peru, are common with us, where they are of annual 
 duration, jind are notable for the varied range of colors and the 
 brilliancy of their flowers. These are the Climbing [T. majus) 
 and the Dwarf Nastur- 
 tium {T. minor), em- 
 bracing many varie- 
 ties. 
 
 The flower-heads and 
 young leaves make a 
 pleasing salad, while 
 the seed-pods when 
 green and tender a're 
 pickled as a substitute 
 for capers. 
 
 Culture. — Nastur- 
 tiums thrive best in a 
 warm, not over-rich, 
 sandy or gravelly soil. 
 Sow seed thinly in drills 
 about one inch deep at 
 the same time for planting sweet corn and melons. 
 
 The climbing sorts should be sown in drills two feet apart, by the 
 side of a fence or some other support for the rampant growing vines to 
 run over, thin out the young plants to eight inches apart. For Dwarf 
 varieties the driUs should he one foot apart ; these require no supports, 
 bloom earlier and are the best for culinary use. 
 
 OKRA or QUMBO {Hibiscus esculentus). 
 From One to One-and-a-half Ounces of Seed mil Plant One Hundred 
 Hills. An annual, of Africaoa origiu, the mucilaginous seed-pods of 
 which are used when young, in soups, sauces, etc. 
 
 Most English and American writers, following the errors of earlier 
 
 botanists, state okra to be a native of the West Indies and Central 
 
 America. According to De CandoUe the plant is undouhtedly of African 
 
 , origin. ,Fruckiger and Hanbury have shown that it was cultivated in 
 
 , Egypt nearly three centuries before the first voyage of Columbus. 
 
 Tom Thumb Nasturtium. 
 
74 
 
 VEGETABLES EOS THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 The plant is found wild and is also cultivated, in the valley of the 
 Nile, Abyssinia, Nubia, and in other parts of tropical Africa. 
 
 There can be little doubt but that the seed was brought to the West 
 Indies or neighboring Continent probably with the introduction of 
 
 slavery into the Colonies. 
 The Creoles of the West 
 Indies not only use the 
 tender pods for culinary 
 purposes, but also the 
 ripened seeds, which are 
 roasted and used as a 
 substitute for coffee. 
 
 CuLTUBE. — In the 
 northern states plant 
 late in the spring in rich, 
 warm, rather dry soil, 
 in "hills or drills two and 
 a half feet apart. Cover 
 the seed with from one 
 to two inches of fine soU 
 and when the plants are 
 established thin out to 
 from twelve to sixteen 
 inches apart. Keep the 
 soil well hoed and at 
 times draw a little earth 
 about the stalks to support them. If an early supply is wanted, plants 
 may be started under glass in March or April and transplanted to the 
 family garden after the weather becomes settled and the ground 
 moderately warm. 
 
 In the southern states early and late plantings are advisable if an 
 uninterrupted succession is wanted throughout the season. In the 
 north a single sowing is sufficient to provide an abundance until frost. 
 The seed pods when young and tender may be cut in thin slices, 
 strung upon thread and dried in the shade in the same manner as 
 domestic fruits. When thus cured they may be stored away for winter 
 use. The pods will be ready for use in from ninety to one hundred 
 and five days from seed. The dwarf varieties only should be grown 
 in the garden. 
 
 Vaeikties. — New Lady Finger, Dwarf Prolific or Density, and 
 White Velvet are suitable sorts for the family garden. This vegetable 
 
 White Velvet Okra. 
 
ONION. 
 
 75 
 
 is deserving of more general cnltivation. It imparts a fine flavor and 
 consistency to soups and is, besides, very palatable when stewed like 
 asparagus. The flowers are exceedingly ornamental, resembling the 
 Hibiscus, to which genus the Okra belongs. 
 
 ONION {Allium eepa). 
 For Large Onions One-third of an Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feet 
 of Drill. For Onion Sets One Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feet of 
 Drill. One Quart of Sets will Plant One Hundred Feet of Bow. A bi- 
 ennial and sometimes perennial, probably indigenous to Central or 
 Western Asia, from Palestine to India. 
 
 Yellow Globe DiifVEKS Onions. 
 
 The history of the onion is lost in antiquity. It was probably cul- 
 tivated in Southern Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean Regions at 
 an epoch antedating human history. Drawings of the onion are found 
 on the monuments of the ancient Egyptians, firom whom one variety 
 received divine honors. Herodotus mentions an inscription on the 
 Great Pyramid of Cheops to the effect that 1600 talents had been paid 
 for onions, garlic, and radishes, consumed by the workmen. This, 
 the first and largest of the pyramids, is believed to have been begun 
 in 4235 B. C. 
 
 The onions mentioned by the early Spanish adventureis in Mexico 
 and Peru, and thought by many writers to have belonged to native 
 
76 
 
 VEGETABLES FOR TBE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 species, are believed by the best authorities to have been of Euiopean 
 origin. Species of this genus are rare in America; 
 
 CuLTUEE. — Onions can be successfnlly grown on almost any soil. 
 Some varieties do best on heavy and others on light land, but the 
 question of soil adaptability is of secondary importance so far as the 
 home garden is concerned. A spot inclined to be moist vrill yield the 
 largest returns, and such a bed, if there be one in the garden, should 
 be selected. Getthe soil into proper condition during autumn. Dress 
 heavily with fine rotted manure, and to this fine bone ineal and wood- 
 ashes are most Train- 
 able additions. Clear 
 or burn off all rub- 
 bish before applying 
 the manure, which 
 should be spaded in 
 just, under the sur- 
 face, or the land msiy 
 be plowed, but if this 
 is done, take a narrow, 
 shallow furrow! This 
 exposure to the freez- 
 ing and Rawing, and 
 to the weathering 
 action of the atmo- 
 sphere will improve 
 the tilth of the tough- 
 est soil. Early in 
 spring go over the bed 
 with a heavy harrow or the wheel hoe and then cross- work it with the 
 same implement. If the bed can then be reached over without much 
 tramping, the writer prefers to cover the surface with a moderately 
 thick layer of dry straw, which is then sprinkled with kerosene oil and 
 burned. The intense heat produced will destroy the vitality of all 
 weed seeds within an inch or two of the surface, and save much future 
 labor. Then rake the bed with a flnfe steel rake until the soil is per- 
 fectly fine and level. This vvork should be done as early in the spring 
 as the land can be worked. 
 
 Sow the seed in perfectly straight rows ten inches apajt and from 
 one -fourth to one-half an inch deep. The hand seed drill is the best 
 implement for this work, but before use should be adjusted to sow the 
 seed thinly as required. Cultivate with a thin, narrow-bladed hoe as 
 
 
 Labgb Eed Wethehsmeld. 
 
ONION. 
 
 77 
 
 soon as the young plants appear. "When two inches high thin out the 
 plants to four inches apart. The several patented wheeled implements 
 are excellent for use in onion culture, as well as for all other garden 
 vegetables, and these are now sold at such low prices that every one 
 can afford to own them. 
 
 Cultivate at least twice a week during the first month, and pick out 
 any young weeds in the rows as fast as they appear ; but in removing 
 weeds do not disturb the roots of the young plants. Pickling Onions, 
 like the Early "White Queen, mature in from one hundred to one hun- 
 dred and sixteen days ; 
 the main crop requires 
 from one hundred and 
 thirty to one hundred 
 and sixty days from 
 seed to maturity.. 
 
 If the crop i is for 
 very early table use, 
 it is best to plant 
 small onion sets in- 
 stead of the seed. 
 Some quick acting fer- 
 tilizer, like poultry 
 manure or nitrate of 
 soda, may also be used 
 to advantage ; if the 
 nitrate is used it must 
 be applied lightly and 
 raked just under the Lakge White Globe Onion. 
 
 surface, or a few < 
 
 pounds may be dissolved by mixing with damp sanTd, after which, 
 scatter over the bed or along the rows. 100 pounds of nitrate of soda 
 per acre is suflicient. This is less than one-fourth of a pound of nitrate 
 to 100 square feet of bed. 
 
 Plant the sets in shallow drills two inches wide and from ten to 
 twelve inches apart. 
 
 The Italian onions are frequently grown by sowing the seed in August 
 and wintering the young plants in trenches covered with straw or 
 leaves. These trenches shouM be on well drained land where water 
 win not stand during winter. Transplant in the spring in the same 
 manner as other onion sets In the north a very early supply may be 
 
78 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 had by sowing seed in the hotbed in February and transplanting to 
 the garden as soon as early spring weather will permit. 
 
 For complete works on onion culture the reader is referred to our 
 bools^ "Onions For Profit," by Mr. T. Greiner, the successful grower 
 of Onions under new methods. 
 
 Complete descriptions of the leading American and Italian onions 
 are given in "Burpee's Seed Annual." 
 
 American Varieties. —The Yellow G-lobe Danvers is not only 
 one of the best early maturing onions for the home garden, hut is a 
 profitable and popular onion to grow for market. The Yellow Stias- 
 burg or Dutch is one of the oldest varieties in cultivation ; the bulb is 
 quite flat, the skin yellow, but darker than the Danvers ; flesh white 
 and of mild flavor. This variety is used for growing Philadelphia 
 Yellow Onion sets. Extra Early Eed yields abundantly and is of 
 
 mild flavor. It matures 
 very early, and will 
 often form bulbs in 
 cold, mucky soils where 
 other varieties fail. It 
 is particularly recom- 
 mended for the North 
 and Northwest. The 
 Large Eed WethersfieM 
 is very productive and 
 an excellent keeper. It 
 is of large size and fine 
 foran, skin deep pur- 
 plish-red ; flesh, pur- 
 plish-white. The White 
 Silver-skin, or White 
 Portugal, is of mild, 
 pleasant flavor, highly esteemed for pickling when yoxmg ; the skin is 
 silvery white and of handsome appearance. The Am©ri<an-grown 
 Prizetaker is of a nearly perfectly globe shape, with thin skin of 
 bright straw color ; it is of immense size, measuring from twelve to 
 eighteen inches in circumference, while under special conditions of 
 culture, bulbs have been raised to weigh five and a half pounds. The 
 flesh is pure white, fine-grained, mild and delicate in flavor. New 
 Gigantic Gibraltar Onion, while similar in appearance to the Prize- 
 taker, is lighter in color ajud of more globokur form. ' In the prize 
 
 Frizetaesb Osion. 
 
ONION. 79 
 
 competition of 1895 the Prizetaker retained first place for size, but the 
 Gibraltar developed pronounced good qualities and excited astonish- 
 ment, not only for its large size, but for shapeliness and handsome 
 appearance. 
 
 Italian Vaeibtibs.— The Barletta is the earliest onion in culti- 
 vation. At maturity the tops die down, leaving neat, handsome little 
 bulbs, from one inch to one and a half inches in diameter. Its ex- 
 treme earliness and fine quality make it a favorite in every garden. 
 
 In the middle west there are annually hundreds of acres planted 
 with seed of White Queen or Extra Early Barletta to produce the 
 small pickling onions for which there is a very heavy demand. 
 Kckling establishments throughout the United States have found 
 this type ofonion to be the very best for pickling either alone or as a 
 component part of chow-chow. It is early, and the bulbs being of 
 a pure paper white makes it a most desirable variety. Burpee's ' 
 Mammoth Silver King was named and introduced by us in 1884. 
 The skin is a beautiful silvery white; the flesh is snowy white, tender, 
 and of a particularly mild and pleasant flavor; the average diameter 
 of the onions is from five to seven and a half inches. 
 
 Onion Sets. — For these the land need not be so heavily fertilized, 
 hut it cannot be too fine or thoroughly prepared. The seed should be 
 sown thickly in drills ten inches apart ; 
 cover very lightly with not more than one 
 quarter inch of soil, which press firmly 
 down on the seed bed. Small, globular 
 onions are desired, and to obtain these no 
 thinning out is needed. Keep entirely free 
 from weeds. Onion sets are ripe in August 
 and should then be taken up and stored in 
 a dry, cool place. Shallow trays with lattice 
 bottoms made of laths are best for this potato Ohions. 
 
 purpose. 
 
 Potato Onions, or Multipliers, are readily grown for an early crop ; 
 •they are liable to some diseases, but are not so liable to be destroyed 
 by the onion maggot. 
 
 They are propagated by division ; the large bulbs when planted 
 divide into clusters of small ones, and these in turn develop into large 
 bulbs. They are mUd flavored and easily grown. 
 
 Plant in drills four inches apart. The largest bulbs should be placed 
 six inches asunder and the smaller ones from two to liiree inches. 
 
 Varieties for the garden are : Philadelphia White, Philadelphia 
 
so VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Yellow, Potato Onions, White Multiplier, and Egyptian, or Perennial 
 Tree Onions. 
 
 PARSLEY [Apiwm petroselinum). 
 One-foiwth of an Ounce of Seed to One Htmdred Feet of Drill. A 
 biennial. Found wild in the South of Europe, in Algeria, and in the 
 , , - ^ Mountains of Lebanon. 
 
 'fi'lH^'^t^'r-fi^'-'" '.1**!,. This plant has probably 
 
 come under cnltivation 
 since the beginning of 
 the Christian era. It 
 . is mentioned as having 
 been grown in the gar- 
 dens of Charlemagne, 
 and was probably in 
 ^f^ general cultivation dur- 
 
 New ExTKi Daek Moss-curled Paesley. ^°S the Middle Ages. 
 
 English gardeners are 
 said to have obtained the plant from Sardinia and to have introduced 
 it into England during Queen Elizabeth's reign, in 1548. 
 
 Cdltiteb. — The seed is one of the first to be sown in the spring, 
 as it frequently fails to gernlinate if sown after the soil becomes dry. 
 Sow in drills half an inch deep and one foot apart ; thin out to six 
 inches apart in the rows as soon as the plants have made a second pair 
 of leaves. For a summer crop the soil cannot be made too fine or 
 mellow. 
 
 For an early spring crop the seed should be sown about the first of 
 September, but the ground should not be made very rich, as a steady 
 rather than a rapid growth is more essential. Upon the approach of 
 cold weather scatter newly fallen leaves around the plants, nearly up 
 to their tops, and keep in place with evergreen boughs or light brush. 
 
 Varieties. — The Extra Dark Moss-curled Parsley is a distinct, 
 ornamental strain. The leaves are beautifully curled or crimpled and 
 jf extra dark-green color. It is very productive, and from the densely 
 curled character of the leaves and the delicacy of its flavor is the best 
 for border plants in the garden. Extra Curled Dwarf, or Emerald, 
 Fern-leaved and Turnip-rooted, or Hamburg, are also suitable varieties 
 for the garden. The edible part of the Turnip-rooted, or Hamburg, is 
 the fleshy root, which resembles a small parsnip, and is esteemed fijr 
 flavoring soups, stews, etc. 
 
PAB8NIP. 
 
 81 
 
 PARSNIP {Peucedanum saUvmn}. 
 
 One-fourth of an Ounce of Seed io One Hundred Feet of Drill. 
 hardy biennial found wild in Great Britain, . 
 Central and Southern Europe, and natural- 
 ized in the United States. 
 
 C0LTDEB. — The parsnip is of easy cultiva- 
 tion, preferring a deep, rich, moist, but rather 
 sandy soil. The ground in the garden 
 should be spaded deep in order to furnish long 
 and well-formed roots. If manure is used it 
 should be old and finely rotted, but the plant 
 is not exhaustive, and the soil is in best con- 
 dition for parsnips after having been made 
 very rich for a previous crop. 
 
 Sow the seed in spring as early as the ground 
 <ian be made ready. Sow in drills from a half 
 to one inch deep and ten inches apart. A 
 good plan is to sow radish seed with the pars- 
 nip, in the proportion of three to one. The 
 radishes will be ready for use before the pars- 
 nips require much thinning out. However, in 
 thinning out, carefully firm the earth around 
 the remaining plants. 
 
 If the soil is very shallow the Early Bound 
 French Parsnip may be grown to advantage. 
 
 There is no difference in qualities between the long and short round 
 varieties if well grown. Parsnips mature from seed in from one hun- 
 dred and twenty-flve to one hundred and forty, days. 
 
 Early frosts do not injure the tops or roots and the table qua;lities 
 are improved by frost. Dig just before the ground freezes up for the 
 winter. Do not cut the roots or trim the tops too closely. Store in a ' 
 cool, dry cellar, and cover with dry sand to exclude the air. 
 
 Parsnips are well known as a delicious table vegetable, but their 
 Taliie for the purpose of feeding cows and. cattle is but little apprC' 
 ciated. The parsnip is rich in saccharine food, which adds greatly to 
 the richness of the milk when fed to cows, while the fresh, succulent 
 roots increase the flow of milk as greatly as does the use of fresh green 
 food in the spring. The parsnip is especially valuable for the purpose, 
 from its extreme hardiness, as the roots can be left in the ground ail 
 winter and improve in quality by the continued freezing. 
 6 
 
 impkoved guebnsey 
 Pabsnip. 
 
82 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE SOME GARDEN. 
 
 Vaeiktibs. — The Improved Gruernsey or Improved Half Long ia 
 recommended for the garden. 
 
 GARDEN PEAS {Pisam satimm). 
 One Pint of Seed will Plant One Hundred Feet of Drill. An annual 
 of uncertain origin, but thonght to be indigenous to Western Asia in 
 
 the regions South of the Cau- 
 casus, to Persia and Northern 
 India. Seed has been found 
 among remains in the lake 
 dwellings of the Age of Bronze 
 in Switzerland, and by the 
 Geologist Dr. Heer, among 
 relics of the Stone Age. The 
 seed of the pre-historic species 
 is spherical and smaller than 
 our modern •garden peas. 
 
 The date of its introduction 
 into English gardens is un- 
 known, but in the thirteenth 
 Century the pea was cultivated 
 in England. The quality of 
 the pea has been greatly im- 
 proved by cultivation. The 
 kinds now common in our gar- 
 dens are so superior to those 
 grown fifty years ago as to be 
 scarcely distinguishable as be- 
 longing to the same species. 
 We now have two distinct 
 forms, first, Smooth, or Eound 
 Seeded, and second, Wrinkled 
 Peas. Several of the former, 
 known as Sugar Peas, have 
 edible pods. The Wrinkled 
 varieties are the earliest, very 
 productive and remain longest 
 in bearing. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — The pea can be grown in every garden, but for earliness, 
 a light, warm, moderately rich soil is most suitable. If manure is 
 used at all it should be fine and thoroughly rotted. The first sowing 
 
 BuEPEE's Quality. 
 
GARDEN PEAS. 
 
 83 
 
 \N.R.B.8,CQ. 
 
 should be made as eisxly as the ground can be worked ; and for a suc- 
 ceasiou plant until June first. Occasionally a good crop can be obtained 
 by planting in one long double row, six inches apart. Drop the 
 peas from two to three inches apart. If practicable plant in rows 
 running north and south. In productive soil a vigorous growth wiH 
 completely cover the supports whether of brush or wire-netting 
 For tall varieties, brush 
 well furnished with 
 twigs' makes a better 
 • npport than wire-net- 
 ting. If several double 
 rows are planted they 
 should be six feet apart. 
 
 For very early varie- 
 ties cover with one inch 
 of fine soil. This, how- 
 ever, only applies to the 
 earliest sorts. The Pea 
 loves moisture and has 
 a deep root system. The 
 largest yield and most 
 luscious flavored peas 
 are obtained by planting 
 in trenches six inches 
 deep. Cover the seed 
 first with from two to 
 three inches of soil and 
 as growth proceeds fill 
 in with earth until the 
 trench is level with the 
 surface. Keep well 
 cultivated. Another 
 method of planting is 
 to sow in single rows 
 three feet apart for early 
 and four feet apart for 
 late sorts. 
 
 Vakibties. — The smaU, round, extra early Pea is more largely 
 grown, both in the iamily garden and for market, than any other one 
 type, and each seedsman naturally strives to have an extra selected 
 strain of so important a variety. Burpee's Best Extra Early, a selected 
 
 ITOTT'S EXCBLSIOB FEAS. 
 
84 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 strain introduced by ns in' 1889, is unsurpassed, authentic reporte 
 having been received Where the Peas have been ready for the table in 
 thirty-four days from date of planting. Laxton's Earliest of All is 
 also a small-seeded round Pea, but the dry seed is blue in color instead! 
 of white. 
 
 Wrinkled Peais are noted for their sweetness and rich sugary flavor. 
 The most popular varieties are the Extra Early Premium Gem, which 
 grows about sixteen inches high and the Dvparf American Wonder, 
 which grows only eight to ten inches high. Recently, however, there 
 has been introduced two new varieties that will surpass even the 
 famous AmenLoan Wonder. The Little Marvel is fully as early, 
 wMle the vines are more productive. Nott's Excelsior, although per- 
 haps not quite so early as the American Wond'M" by a few days, is 
 valuable, from the fact that all the Peas are ready for picMng at one 
 time. As shown in the illustration on page 83, the pods are very 
 compact, well filled with six or eight large peas, and they are of un- 
 usually sweet flavor. 
 
 For General Crop. — There are many good Wrinkled Peas for the 
 general crop, but in our opinion none can equal Burpee's Quantity 
 and Quality Peas and Bureee's Profusion, all three of which are fully 
 described in Burpee's "Annual." 
 
 TABLE III.— PEAS. 
 
 Days from Planting to First Fair Picking, and Length of Vines in 
 Field and Garden Culture. 
 
 Days From 
 Varieties. Planting to 
 
 First Fair 
 Picking. 
 
 Advancer, McLean's 59 
 
 Alaska 50 
 
 Alderman 75 
 
 American Wonder 50 
 
 Best' Extra Early, Btirpee's 36 to 46 
 
 Black Eye Marrowfat S4 
 
 Boston Unrivaled 72 
 
 Carter's Daisy 75 
 
 Champion of England 78 
 
 Dwarf Gray Sugar 80 
 
 Duke of Albany^ 75 
 
 Earliest of Alii Laxton'a 50 
 
 Everbearing, Bliss's 80 
 
 Evolution, Laxton's 80 
 
 Bbic^lsior, MoWa ; , 52 to 56 
 
 First and Best 49 to 50 
 
 Gradus, or "Prosperity" 50 
 
 Heroine 84 
 
 Length of 
 
 
 VvnesyHth 
 
 Length of 
 
 Ordinary^ 
 
 Vines with 
 
 Field Cul- 
 
 Garden Cul- 
 
 ture. 
 
 ture. 
 
 24 to 28 
 
 26 to 30 
 
 20 to 24 
 
 24 to 28 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 45 to 50 
 
 9 to 10 • 
 
 10 to 12 
 
 20 to 26 
 
 24 to 30 
 
 48 to 56 
 
 54 to 60 
 
 36 to 34 
 
 40' to 50 
 
 ao to 26 
 
 24 to 28 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 46 to 54 
 
 18 to 24 
 
 24- to 26 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 45 to 50 
 
 20 to 24 
 
 24 to 28 
 
 30 to 36 
 
 36 to 42 
 
 26 to 20 
 
 34 to 36 
 
 10 to 12 
 
 12 to 14, 
 
 22 to 2S 
 
 24 to 30 
 
 20 to 24 
 
 24 to 36 
 
 20 to 24 
 
 24 to 30 
 
PEPPER. 
 
 85 
 
 TABLE III.— PEAS. iContitmed.) 
 
 Length of 
 
 Days From Vines mith Length of 
 
 Varieties. Plmtting to Ordmary Vines with 
 
 First Fair Field Cul- Garden Cul- 
 Pickirtg, ture. twe. 
 
 Horsford's Market Garden 71 24 to 30 30 to 36 
 
 Little Gem. 50 to 54 12 to 15 12 to 16 
 
 Long. Island Mammoth 67 38 to 44 42 to 48 
 
 Mammoth Melting Sugar 80 42 to 48 48 to 54 
 
 Philadelphia Extra Early 49 to SO 20 to 26 24 to 30 ' 
 
 Premium Gem Extra Early .' 69 12 to 15 12 to 16 
 
 Pride of the Market 80 20 to 30 30 to 36 
 
 Profusion, Burpee's 66 to 74 36 to 40 38 to 42 
 
 Qualitiy, Burpee's 68 20 to 28 24 to 30 
 
 Quantity, Burpee's 64 24 to 30 30 to 32 
 
 White Marrowfat 84 44 to 46 46 to 68 
 
 Shropshire Hero 80 20 to 30 30 to 36 
 
 Stratagem 81 20 to 26 24 to 28 
 
 Tall Sugar 86 48 to 56 54 to 63 
 
 Telephone 71 36 to 44 40 to 50 
 
 Yorkshire Hero 79 22 to 28 24 to 30 
 
 Unfortunately many varieties of peas bearing fancy names in 'Our 
 trials prove to be simply standard varieties re^named. 
 
 PEPPER {Capsimm). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Prodiice c^aiii Fifteen Bundred Plants. A, 
 genus of tender annuals and biennials, indigenous to tropical South 
 America, its original home probably being Brazil, Peru and Chili. 
 Our garden varieties are derived from 0. anmim, 0. fruteseens and C. 
 grossum ; the latter, said to be a native of the East Indies, is the parent 
 of our bell-shaped peppers ; it is, however, doubtlul if this species is 
 of Asiatic origin. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — The plant succeeds best in a rich, vparm, sandy soil. 
 Cruano or poultry manure is the best fertilizer and should be liberally 
 applied before and after planting. 
 
 In the Northern states start in the house or under glass in March 
 or April. Small boxes or pots such as are used for tomatoes or egg 
 plants may be used. Pill with rich, light soil and cover with not more 
 than a half inch of soil ; give the same general care as egg plants, 
 except that in transplanting the distance should be five inches apart 
 each way. Transplant to the garden after the soil becomes warm 
 and the weather settled. Set in rows two feet by eighteen inches 
 apart. 
 
 A top dressing of hen manure in June or after the plants have at- 
 tained a height of about six inches will induce rapid growth and 
 
VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 abundant fruiting. South of Philadelphia seed of the large fruited 
 
 sorts may be sown in the open ground, after danger of frost is over, 
 
 but a protected situation 
 and warm, light soil 
 should be selected. 
 Peppers require from 
 one hundred and thirty- 
 five to one hundred and 
 sixty days from seed to 
 maturity. 
 
 Vaeieties. —In s e- 
 lecting the varieties of 
 pepper wanted for the 
 home garden it must be 
 borne in mind that the 
 hot, pungent flavor is al- 
 ways in inverse ratio to 
 the size. The smallest 
 Peppers, such as Eed 
 Cluster, Coral Gem 
 Bouquet, Bird's Eye and 
 Tabasco are of the hot- 
 test possible-flavor. Of 
 
 the large, mild Peppers for stuffing, or even for slicing for salad, the 
 
 best varieties are Burpee's 
 
 Ruby King, Improved Bull 
 
 Nose, Chinese Giant and 
 
 Sweet Upright among the 
 
 red varieties, while of the 
 
 Yellow Peppers the 
 
 Golden Dawn and Golden 
 
 Queen are the largest and 
 
 sweetest. "Neapolitan" 
 
 Large Early is one of the 
 
 most profitable to grow, 
 
 as the fruits are ready for 
 
 use long before any other large-fruited variety. It is very mild in 
 
 flavor. 
 
 EUBY ZlHG Pepper. (Om-fourth Natwral Size.) 
 
 Gbeole, or Bikd's Eye Peppeb. 
 
POTATO. 87 
 
 POTATO {Solanum tuberosum). 
 
 One-fourth of ■% Bushel of Potato Sets will Plant Three Hundred Feet 
 of Bow. Annual. The native home of the species from which oui 
 many varieties of potatoes have originated, is believed to be the high 
 mountain regions of South America, within those vast territories which 
 once comprised the ancient Empire of Peru. 
 
 The early Spanish discoverers found the potato in Chili, ^ New 
 Granada, and all along the chain of the Andes. 
 
 Humboldt, who bestowed much study on the early history of the 
 plant, says it was unknown to the ancient Mexicans, an opinion con- 
 firmed by concurrent testimony of many travelers and writers. It 
 was also unknown to the aborigines in the eastern temperate regions 
 of South America. 
 
 There is a vast amount of conflicting testimony regarding the intro- 
 duction of the potato into "Western Europe. It is believed to have been 
 brought to Spain from Quito, by Spanish adventurers in the early part 
 of the sixteenth century. From Spain the potato passed into Italy 
 and from thence was carried into Mons by some one in attendance on 
 the papal legate in Belgium. From Spain the tuber seems to have 
 been introduced into the Netherlands, Lorraine, Switzerland and 
 Germany. 
 
 According to MM. Vilmorin-Aiidrieux, the potato did not become 
 common in the central and northern districts of Prance untU after 
 Parmentier's labors made known its true value as a source of food 
 supply. 
 
 The date of the introduction of the potato into the British Isles has 
 been a subject of much discussion, but it is very generally believed 
 that the first specimens grown in Britain were brought from Virginia by 
 colonists sent out by Sir Walter Baleigh in 1584, who soon afterwards 
 returned. Thomas Herriot, who accompanied Sir "Walter Kaleigh ir 
 several voyages, brought the first potatoes into Britain in 1586. 
 
 They were planted on Sir "Walter's estate near Cork. The tubers 
 were used for food in Ireland long before they were even known in 
 England. In the time of James I (1566-1625), potatoes were so rare 
 in England as to cost two shillings (sterling) a pound, and are men- 
 tioned in 1619 among the supplies provided for the royal household. 
 Humboldt supposed that the cultivation of the tuber in Virginia, 
 where it was known to the early colonists, must have been originally 
 received from the Spanish colonies at the south. 
 
 Culture. — Light, rich loams, with gravelly sub-soils produce the 
 
88 VEGETABLES FO^ THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 finest potatoes. Methods of culture differ materially. On Long Island, 
 where the Potato is one of the chief industries, two methods of plant- 
 ing are employed and that by the same growers. Tie more common 
 practice is to "plow them in ; " that is, a furrow is plowed about five 
 inches deep, fertilizer at the rate of one ton per acre is scattered in the 
 farrows and the seed usually cut to a single eye, dropped about six 
 inches apart and covered with the n^t furrow. The same operation 
 is repeated every third furrow. 
 
 The other plan is to plow from six to eight inches deep, according to 
 lihe character of the soil ;, after smoothing the ground with the harrow it 
 
 Great Divide Potato. Showing haUt of growth in the hill. (From a Phetograph.) 
 
 is furrowed out 30 inches apart, either stable manure, well rotted, or 
 some complete fertilizer is scattered in the drills and the seed is put in 
 and covered with the improved ridger now in general use. The owner 
 of the land generally applies his fertilizers broadcast, amd makes a 
 second application when the potatoes are worked the second time. 
 Then about 400 pounds per acre is spread close to the vines and worked 
 in with the cultivator. 
 
 The selection of seed is one of the most important steps in growing 
 a crop of potatoes. Medium sized tubers are invariably the best for 
 seed. In cutting, care should be taken to divide the eyes evenly and 
 
POTATO. 89 
 
 to bruise the seed as little as possible. Mr. Van Omam in his reeent 
 book, "Potatoes For Profit" says, " Were it always possible without 
 too much labor I would invariably confine planting to a single eye to 
 thehiU." 
 
 For an early supply choose the hardiest and earliest varieties, which 
 should be planted in spring as soon as the land can be made ready. 
 Plant shallow, to avoid rot in case of cold or wet weather, in drills 
 30 inches apart. The distance apart in the drills depends much upon 
 habits of growth. If small and compact in growth, like Uncle Gid- 
 eon's Quick Lunch and Early Rose, from 12 to 15 inches apart will be 
 found about right, and for Burpee's Iktra Early and Beauty of Hebron 
 15 inches apart. For late varieties ftom 15 to 20 inches apart. The 
 depth of planting should be about two inches for early and from four 
 to five inches for late sorts. After a few days, simply waiting to let 
 the weeds germinate and before they can get a-stairt,,go over the ground 
 lengthwise with the rows "with a light steel- toothed harrow. Keep 
 the young plants free from weeds by conlinuous shallow cultivation. 
 
 For a very early crop the potatoes are sprouted before planting. Cut 
 the seed to one or more eyes and plaee in a warm, light room for from 
 four to six weeks. 
 
 Vigorous shoots will start, which, when planted in well-prepared soil 
 in the open ground, will start to grow vigorously at once. Another 
 method is to place the sets in a hotbed two weeks before planting out. 
 They are then carefully lifted and set out on fresh horse manure, 
 the heat from which inducas more rapid growth. 
 
 The Colorado Potato Beetle usually appearsisimultaneously with the 
 tender plants. Spray them at once with Paris green and water, made 
 by using a tablespoonful of the poison to a pail of water. Apply with 
 a watering-pot or broom, or knapsack sprayer if one is at hand ; keep 
 well stirred to prevent the hearvy poison sinking to the bottom of the 
 vessel. 
 
 The earliest varieties are ready to dig in from eighty to ninety days 
 ftom planting, medium late in from eighty five to one hundred days, 
 and late varieties in one hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty 
 days from planting. 
 
 Varieties. — ^Burpee's Extra Early was first introduced by us in 
 1890. It has proved to be from ten days to two weeks earlier than 
 Early Rose, Beauty of Hebron, Early Puritan, Polaris, etc., while 
 fully one week earlier than the Early Ohio and nearly twice as pro- 
 ductive. The potatoes are uniformly of good size, oblong in shape, 
 very smooth, eyes set well on the surface, skin cieamy white, slightly 
 
90 VEGETABLES FOB T3E HOME GARDEN. 
 
 shaded with pink ; the flesh is pure white, remarkably fine-grained, 
 and of the very best table quality. The Early Rose is' the standard 
 early potato and is so well known as to need no description. Beauty 
 of Hebron is a very rapid and vigorous grower, ripening as early as 
 the Early Rose, which it resembles, but frequently exceeds in pro- 
 ductiveness and excellence for table use. Burpee's Empire State was 
 introduced by us in 1885. The potatoes are oblong in shape, of large 
 size, and very smooth, rich and delicate in flavor, and cook evenly 
 through without any coarseness. It yields large crops 'and is easily 
 dug. Burpee's Superior was introduced by us in 1889. The tubers 
 average quite large in size with very few small ones. Many of the 
 large late varieties are quite hard and watery wheji first dug, and do 
 not attain good cooking condition until they have become partly dry, 
 while the Superior is in excellent condition for cooking from the time 
 it is dug until late in the spring. It is never watery, is of very fine 
 quality, and cooks evenly all through. The Great Divide, introduced 
 by us in 1894, is the best potato for main crop. It was originated by 
 the veteran potato grower, Mr. F. B. Van Ornam, from a seed-ball pro- 
 duced in 1887 on the Early Ohio, fertilized with the Old California. 
 The cross was an astonishing success, and the Great Divide has proved 
 to be the leading main crop potato for both sides of the Eocky Moun- 
 tains, proving well worthy of its suggestive name. The tubers are of 
 oblong, round form, eyes plentiful and on the surface ; skin very white, 
 firm, and tough. The flesh is clear white, and when baked or boiled 
 breaks open like a snowball; it cooks very quickly, with a delicious 
 nutty flavor. For recent introductions see Burpee's Annual. 
 
 SWEET POTATO {Ipomxa batatas). 
 
 Mve Hundred Plants will Set from Two Hundred and Fifty to Three 
 Hundred and Twenty-five Feet of Bow; from Five Thousand to Ten 
 T/iousand Plants to the Acre. The sweet potato belongs to the Convol 
 vulus or Morning Glory family. It is a perennial, but is cultivated 
 as an annual, and the common method of propagation is by means of 
 buds or shoots from the root. The fleshy underground parts are true 
 roots, not subterranean branches, as in the case of the white potato. 
 
 Botanical authorities are not agreed as to the native home of this 
 plant. There are strong reasons for believing its original habitat was 
 tropical America, but there is also undoubted evidence that the plant 
 was cultivated in China at an early date. 
 
 A sweet potato is mentioned in Chinese writings of the second cen- 
 tury of the Christian era. 
 
SWEET POTATO. 91 
 
 It is said that Columbus, when he appeared for the first time before 
 Queen Isabella, offered her various productions from the New World, 
 sweet potatoes among others. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — To attain its best development the sweet potato must 
 have a warm, sandy, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. It will 
 not succeed at all in compact clays or on cold, wet lands. According 
 to Professor Milton Whitney's investigations, the sweet potato suc- 
 ceeds best in the truck-growing regions of the Atlantic seaboard, in 
 soils containing not more than from six to twelve per cent, of clay. 
 
 The soil must be light, warm, and dry, and should be unshaded 
 throughout the entire day. 
 
 It is possible to propagate by planting true seed or by planting 
 pieces of the root, as with the white potato, but the common and only 
 practical method of propagation is by means of shoots, sets, or plants 
 grown on the parent roots. The sweet potato never produces seed in 
 the United States, except in the greenhouse, and then it is of rare 
 occurrence. 
 
 The cultural directions herein given apply only to the home garden ; 
 those interested in growing the plant as a field crop are referred to 
 "Farmers' Bulletin," No. 20, of the United States Department of Agri- 
 culture. For the family garden the plants may be grown in the hot- 
 bed or in a box of rich, sandy soil in one of the living rooms. 
 
 The sets, shoots, or plants, as they are variously called, are obtained 
 by .sprouting the eyes or buds of the roots. In the hotbed enough 
 manure must be used to teep the soil around the roots at a tempera- 
 ture of about 75° to 85° F. In New Jersey the usual depth of 
 manure required to do this is about twelve inches, while in the Gulf 
 States from two to five inches is sufiicient. Coarse horse manure that 
 has been but slightly heated should be used. After packing and 
 leveling off the manure, spread over it a layer of sand or light 
 loam from two to three inches thick ; on this place the jwtatoes in a 
 horizontal position, so aS not to touch each other. If large potatoes 
 are used they may be cut lengthwise and placed with the cut surface 
 down. Cover the roots with sand or fine, light loam to a depth of 
 from one to three inches. The roots intended to produce plants 
 should be bedded five or six weeks before the date on which trans- 
 planting is to begin. 
 
 The earliest dates at which it is safe to set out plants are given in 
 "Farmers' Bulletin, " No. 26, United States Department of Agriculture, 
 as follows : — 
 
 Near Jacksonville, Florida, March 20th ; South Carolina, Georgia, 
 
92 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Alabama, Mississippi, and Arkansas, April 1st to 25th, and in the 
 southern part of New Jersey from May 1st to 15th. After noon or 
 toward evening is the best time for transplanting to the garden, but 
 this njnst not be done until the ground is warm and all danger of frost 
 is past. 
 
 One peck of small or two peeks of medium-sized roots will furnish 
 plants enough to plant from an eighth to a fourth of an acre, provided 
 repeated drawings of plants are made. 
 
 A method of propagation common in the Gulf States and some 
 other parts of the South is by means of vine cuttings. 
 
 As a rule, vine cuttings can be set out with adTantage until within 
 ninety to one hundred and five days of autumn frosts. Sweet potatoes 
 are planted both in drills and checks. For the family garden we pre- 
 fer rows three and one-half feet apart ; the plants may be from 
 18 inches to two feet apart in the rows. 
 
 The following are approximately the amount of seed sweet potatoes 
 required to furnish plants (not cuttings) for an acre : — 
 
 When plants are drawn repeatedly, small potatoes, one and a 
 half to two bushels ; medium-sized potatoes, two to four bushels ; 
 large potatoes, four to ten bushels. To plant an acre with plants 
 obtained at first drawing, twice these quantities should be used. In 
 localities where the chief dependence is on vine cuttings from early 
 plants, much smaller amounts of seed will suffice. — From ' ' Farmers' 
 Bulletin," No. 26, U. S. Dapt. Agriuulture. 
 
 Grown in cheeks, the distance should be 30 by 30 inches apart. 
 
 In the truck-farming regions with sandy soil the practice is to 
 plow very shallow, — ^three or four inches deep ; heavy and less 
 permeable soils are plowed deeper. A low ridge on well- drained 
 land gives larger yields. High ridges are warmer and of some advan- 
 tage in heavier soils, but the crop is more liable to suffer from 
 drought. Give- shallow cultivation without throwing dirt on the 
 vines and keep the surface soil loose and free from "weeds. In the 
 more northern regions where the sweet potato is grown, it is best to 
 prevent the vines taking root at the joints, at least so long as they can 
 be cultivated. 
 
 Sweet potatoes should be dug only when the ground is dry and 
 before severe frost occurs. 
 
 A rule sometimes given for determining ripeness is this : — Break 
 several potatoes and expose the pieces to the air for some time. If 
 sufficiently mature to keep well the original color is maintained ; if 
 unripe the broken surfaces assume adaiik or greenish appearance. 
 
PUMPKIN. 93 
 
 Dig in the forenoon, and after several hours' exposure gather the 
 potatoes In baskets or boxes, holding abont a bushel each. Before 
 digging the vines are out and drawn from the tow with a sharp hoe ; 
 the forked hand-hoe, or the plow is used to dig the roots. 
 
 Small quantities may be kept for a few months by packing in dry 
 sand and placing in a dry cellar or room. In the South sweet potatoes 
 ■stored several days after digging, in large baskets or boxes lined and 
 covered with several thicknesses of newspaper, have been found to 
 keep fairly well for a short time. In experiments at the South 
 Carolina Experiment Station, cotton-seed hulls as a packing material 
 have proved superior to cotton-seed, so often used for this purpose. 
 Dry sand was found useful a>s a covering. 
 
 Ninety days after transplanting is generally regarded as the shortest 
 period in which the early varieties are ready to be dug, but under 
 some very favorable conditions of growth from sixty to seventy-five 
 days are reported. 
 
 Vaeieties. — Southern consumers prefer the more sugary varieties, 
 like Sugar Yam, Spanish Yam, Georgia Yam, Vineless and Pumpkin 
 Yam. In the North the more flowery or starchy sorts are demanded, 
 like the Yellow Nansemond, Eed Nansemond, and Jersey. Among the 
 early varieties we mention Southern Queen, Vineless, Early Carolina, 
 and Strasbnrg. 
 
 PUMPKIN [CucurUta pepo). 
 
 One Pound of Seed will Plant from Two Hundred to TJiree Sundred 
 Hills. An annual, native to the southwestern regions of the U. S. 
 and Mexico. 
 
 Notwithstanding its disputed origin, there is strong evidence that 
 the pumpkin is indigenous to the south temperate regions of North 
 America. The pumpkins cultivated by the Eomans and mentioned in 
 the writings of the Middle Ages belonged to another species, DeCan- 
 dolle thinks to C. maxima, but this is also in doubt since the seed of 
 this species is asserted by "Wittmack to have been discovered in the 
 Peruvian tombs of Ancon. These ancient tombs were used by the 
 natives as places of sepulture long after the arrival of the Spaniards, 
 so that the seeds may have been brought to Peru by the Spanish Con- 
 querors along with others of common European cultivation. Sir Joseph 
 Hooker mentions the species as having been found wUd on the banks 
 of the Niger in Guinea. 
 
 CutTUBE. — This is not a suitable crop for the home garden, unless 
 there is ample room, as the vines are most vigorous in growth and 
 cpiickly spread over a large area. 
 
94 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN.' 
 
 The common practice, and a good one, is to plant in the com field in 
 hlUs about eight or ten feet apart. Drop a half dozen seeds edgewise 
 with the eye down, to a hiU, and cover to a depth of one and a half 
 inches ; thin out to three thrifty plants to a hill. They demand the 
 same general culture as melons and squashes. .Pumpkins require from 
 one hundred and five to one hundred and twenty days from seed to 
 maturity. 
 
 BnEPEB's Qdakek Pie Pdmpkih. 
 
 Vakieties. — We mention among those catalogued in "Burpee's 
 Seed Annual" the following: Burpee's Quaker Pie, Japanese, Genu- 
 ine Mammoth or True Potiron, Small Sugar, "Big Tom," Small 
 Sugar, White Cushaw, Burpee's Golden Oblong and Green-Striped 
 Cushaw. 
 
 RADISH {Raphanus sativus). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed mil Sow One Hundred Feet of Drill. An annual 
 that has been under cultivation from the earliest historic times. The 
 common ancestor of our modern species probably had its original 
 
RADISH. 
 
 95 
 
 «aRXWMKTW,j 
 
 home in the temperate regions of Southwestern Asia. But this is 
 uncertain. Some authorities accredit it to China, and others think 
 it had a wide aboriginal distribution in R. raphanistrum, common 
 in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. The radish is men- 
 tioned in Chinese books written more than three thousand years 
 ago. Herodotus says that according to an inscription it was eaten by 
 the builders of the great Pyramid of Cheops. 
 
 The plant did not find a 
 place in English gardens 
 antil near the middle of the 
 sixteenth century (1548). 
 
 Culture. — Its cultivation 
 is sim pie. Light, sandy soil, 
 made very rich and mellow 
 with thoroughly rotted ma- 
 nure, is essential to produce 
 crisp, tender radishes. 
 
 Eank manure not only 
 produces rot and a sharp, 
 pungent flavor, but induces 
 a coarse woody growth. If 
 the soil is of a heavy char- 
 acter it must be made quite 
 fine to insure rapid growth and well formed roots. The seed is 
 almost invariably sown too thick. The fact is the seed should be sown 
 at least half 'an inch apart, — one inch apart would be better, so that 
 each plant would have a clear open space to grow without being 
 crowded. The seeds should be sown in drills six inches apart and 
 covered with not more than half an inch of fine, sifted soil. Sowings 
 for a succession should be made at intervals of about ten days. 
 
 Good radishes can not be grown in dry, hot soil, consequently if a 
 aupply is desired at mid-summer the bed must be partially protected 
 from the sun. This may be done in the same manner as has been ad- 
 vised for growing a summer crop of lettuce. For an extra early supply 
 sow in hotbeds in February. The soil should be light, very rich and 
 have a constant, gentle heat. 
 
 For winter radishes, seed may be sown early in the fall, in drills one 
 foot apart. When the season is favorable they are particularly desir- 
 able, but extreme dry and hot weather in the early fall makes them 
 so woody in character, as to be worthless. Under favorable conditions 
 they are tender, crisp and delicious. In deep, rich soil the long 
 
 New Bright Breakfast Radish. 
 
96 
 
 VEGETABLES FOS, THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 •varieties are most satisfactory, but either these or the turnip-rooted 
 
 sorts must be grown quickly to be good. 
 The wavy-striped Flea-Beetle is at times veiy diestmclave to the 
 
 leaves. Tobacco dust, lime or unleached wood ashes scattered over 
 
 the lea/ves as soon as they appear above ground is an efifeetual remedy. 
 Earliest varielaes are ready for the table in 
 from eighteen to twenty-two days from 
 planting ; later sorts from twenty-five to 
 forty -five days. 
 
 Varieties.— The New Earliest White, 
 Forcing Eadish is undoubtedly the earliest 
 White Eadish in cultivation ; in fact at 
 Fordhook it was the earliest of all Rad- 
 ishes—being ready for the table in from 
 eighteen to twenty days from sowing- the 
 seed. It is a handsome olive-shaped radish 
 with both skin and flesh a pure, clear 
 white ; flavor mild, crisp and tender. Bur- 
 pee's Earliest (Scarlet Button) Eadish is a 
 beautiful, round radish with deep scarlet 
 V= '^B skin, the flavor is very mild, and for ten- 
 
 "~ deimess,, crispnessiand earldness it surpasses 
 
 all other strains of Scarlet Turnip Eadish ; 
 it is ready for iiie table in from eighteen to 
 twenty days from seed. New Bright Break- 
 fast, Golden Dresden, Early Bound Dark 
 Eed, Long White Vienna and many other 
 desirable varieties are described in "Bur-^ 
 pee's Seed Annual." 
 
 StlMMiEE VAEIETIBS are Large White 
 Globe, White Strasburg' and Burpee's Sur- 
 prise. The best winter varieties are Ch inese 
 Eose Winter, California Mammoth White, 
 and White Chinese or New Celestial. 
 
 EUbliest WmTE Badish. 
 
 RHUBARB {Bhewm rhapontieum). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred and Twenty-fioe Feet of 
 Drill. Some species of this genus have been cultivated from the 
 earliest times. 
 
 The so-called Turkish Ehubarb used in medicine is ,the root of B. 
 paknalum, a native of China. The rhubarb of our gardens is a by- 
 
BHUBABB— SALSIFY. 97 
 
 brid of J?, rhaponticum and B. liybiidwrn, natives of Mongolia and the 
 temperate regions of Western Asia. The plant was introduced into 
 England in 1778. It should have a place in every family garden. 
 
 CuLTCKE. — Rhubarb may be grown in most any well-drained soil, 
 provided it be rich and made friable by deep culture. Eich, deep, bui 
 rather light loam yields the finest product. If this is not to be had in 
 the home garden, trench to a depth of at least two feet any well-drained 
 bed and fill in with hotbed compost mixed with loam and sand, which 
 should be well stirred together. The deeper the soU is stirred the 
 quicker and more thrifty will be the growth. 
 
 -As soon as garden operations can be begun in spring, sow the seed 
 in drills two feet apart and about one inch deep ; thin out the plants 
 to six inches apart in the rows. 
 
 In the latitude of Philadelphia, and throughout the more northern 
 states^ the practice is to sow the seed in cold frames ftom February to 
 the beginning of April, in deep, rich composted soil. Sow in drills one 
 foot apart, cover with one-fourth of an inch of finely sifted composted 
 soil, which should be firmed well down upon the seed. Keep the seed 
 bed moist, Tbut not wet. Thin out the young plants to six inches 
 apart in the rows, and in about six weeks they will be ready to trans- 
 plant to the open ground. Set out in rows 12 inches apart each way, 
 and give clean cultivation through the summer. In the fall or follow- 
 ing spring transplant to permanent beds, setting the plants in rows 
 three by four feet apart. 
 
 For the first year the ground between the permanent rows may be 
 used for a crop of lettuce, beans, or any low growing vegetables, but 
 after the second year the leaves will cover the ground and require it 
 for their full development. Keep the ground clear from weeds and 
 break off the flower stalks as they appear, in order that the plants 
 may not exhaust themselves by forming seed. Every autumn give 
 the rows a liberal covering of coarse manure, which should be care- 
 fully worked in the next spring so as not to cut or injure the roots. 
 The stocks should not be cut before the third year. Myatt's Victoria 
 is a suitable variety for the home garden. 
 
 SALSIFY {Tragopogon porrifolius). 
 One Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feet of Drill A biennial found 
 wild in Greece, Balmatia, Italy and Algeria. This plant has come 
 under cultivation at a comparatively recent date. It was introduced 
 into France in the sixteenth century, but only during the last cen- 
 tury has salsify been cultivated in American gardens. 
 7 
 
98 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TEE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Culture. — It succeeds- best in a light, deep soil which has been 
 heavily manured for a previous crop. Fresh manure should not be 
 used under any circumstances, as it produces coarse, forked roots. If 
 the ground is not quite rich enough work into it some old compost 
 or very finely rotted manure. The soil should be worked to a depth 
 of fifteen to twenty inches and as soon as operations can be begun 
 in ihe spring. Then sow the seed at once in drills one foot apart, 
 and cover with one inch of soil. When the 
 plants are three inches high thin out to six 
 inches apart. ' Give frequent shallow culti- 
 vation. 
 
 The roots may be taken up late in autumn 
 and stored in moist sand in a cold' room ; 
 or they will not be injured if left in the 
 ground and dug when wanted during vyin- 
 ter. After growth begins in spring the roots 
 are unfit for use. Salsify requires from one 
 hundred and thirty to one hundred and forty 
 days to complete its growth. 
 
 Varieties. — The Sandwich Island Mam- 
 moth. is of larger size than the Long White, 
 and is equally as fine for the table. 
 
 Salsify is a delicious and nutritious vege- 
 table worthy of more general cultivation for 
 use in winter when the supply of really good 
 vegetables is limited. 
 
 Sahdwich Island Mam- 
 moth Salsify. 
 
 SORREL (Bumex sciUatus). 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow One Hundred 
 and Fifty Feet of Drill. A hardy perennial, 
 native of temperate Europe, northern Asia, and the mountains of 
 India. The plant is extensively grown in France and Italy. There 
 are two species cultivated by the French gardeners, but B. scutatus is 
 the more generally grown because of its more agreeable flavor when 
 boiled and served like spinach. 
 
 CuLTUKB. — Seed should be sown early in the spring, in drills eigh- 
 teen inches apait, and covered with one-half inch of soil. When the 
 plants are three inches high thin out to one foot apart in the rows. 
 Being a perennial the roots may remain undisturbed for several years, 
 when they may be divided and planted out the same as rhubarb. 
 Sorrel should have a sheltered situation, as the hot sun has a tendency 
 
SPINACH. 
 
 99 
 
 Bkoad-Leaved Feench Soeeel. 
 
 to increase the acidity, and also to decrease the size of the leaves, 
 which are used in the same manner as spinach. 
 . From its pleasant 
 acid flavor, sorrel 
 materially improves 
 spinach, if the two 
 are used together in 
 equal quantities. 
 The leaves may be 
 used as soon as the 
 plant has made a 
 growth of several 
 inches. The Broad- 
 leaved French is the 
 most popular variety 
 in America, and so 
 highly is it esteemed 
 in France that large fields of it are cultivated in the vicinity of Paris. 
 
 SPINACH iSpinacea oleracea). 
 
 (hie-half an Ounce of Seed to One Hundred Feel of Drill. A hardy 
 annual, supposed to be a native of Western Asia. DeCandoUe thinks 
 it came from the empire of the ancient Medes and Persians. It was 
 commonly cultivated in England early in the sixteenth century. 
 
 It is hardy, easily grown in rich soil, and is consequently an import- 
 ant vegetable for cold and temperate climates. 
 
 Culture. — Spinach is one of the few vegetables that can be raised 
 to advantage the latter part of the year, and, as there are always vacant 
 places in the garden at this season, the gardener has every opportunity 
 ;o make the most of the place, and at the same time secure a vegetable 
 'loth ill autumn and very early spring. 
 
 It is a good plan to have the ground in readiness so that several beds 
 can be sown in succession, at intervals of a week from the first to the 
 end of September. The most forward of thege, if covered up with 
 straw at the approach of cold weather will furnish a wholesome vege- 
 table for the table when others are scarce, and the later sowings will 
 withstand the winter with a slight protection of leaves, straw or other 
 litter. 
 
 Speinq Sowing. — Sow the seed in drills one foot apart and one 
 inch deep as soon as the ground can be prepared in the spring. Begin 
 to thin out for table use when the plants are about an inch in diameter. 
 
100 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB TEE' HOME GARDEN. 
 
 It will quickly run to seed unless' the ground is kept wet and made 
 very rich ; this is best effected by the use of horse manure which has 
 not become overheated. Spinach may be used in from twenty-one to 
 thirty days from sowing the seed. 
 VaBietibs. — The Victoria is a new Variety from Germany. The 
 
 foliage is heavy, with 
 broad, dark-green 
 leaves of the true Sa- 
 voy appearance and of 
 the finest quality. 
 What makes- it of 
 special value for spring 
 planting; both for the 
 family garden and 
 market, is the fact that 
 it is in prime condition 
 for two to three weeks 
 after all other varieties 
 of spinach have run to 
 seed. Long Standing 
 or Enkhuizen is one 
 of the best for spring 
 sowing. 
 
 The leaves are large, thick, fleshy, and crumpled, fully equal in qual- 
 ity to the well-known Savoy-leaved. The Long Standing Prickly ma- 
 tures a little later than theround-leaved sorts, but furnishes a large 
 quaintity of very thick leaves of excellent flavor. Norfolk Savoy-leaved 
 or Bloomsdale has curled wrinkled leaves like Savoy Cabbage ; very 
 hardy. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND SPINACH (Tetmgona expansa). 
 
 One Dozen Plants will Afford an Abundance for a Large Family. An 
 annual, first foimd growing wild on the shores of New Zealand in 
 1712, by Sir Joseph Banks, who accompanied Captain Cook's expedi- 
 tion. The plant has been found since growing wild on the seacoastof 
 Tasmania, South and West Australia, and in Japan and South Amer- 
 ica. It bears no relation botanically to the common spinach, but is a 
 good suhstitute for it, especially during the dry, hot weather of summer. 
 
 CuLTTJKE. — New Zealand Spinach is a rank grower, and a half dozen 
 plants are sufl&cient to supply a family of moderate size. The seed 
 has a hard outer covering, and for this reason should be soaked in hot 
 water over night before planting. 
 
 TiCTOBiA Spinach. 
 
 - r' WAR see 
 
 (JiVom a Photograph.) 
 
SQUASff. 
 
 101 
 
 Plant the seed in hills four feet apart each way and one inch deep as 
 soon as active garden work begins in the spring. Thin out to one thrifty 
 plant to a hill. In six weeks from sowing leaves will he fit for gather- 
 ing, and can be taken off the entire summer. The plant is of branch- 
 ing habit, which may be encouraged by occasionally nipping off the 
 ends of the stems. 
 
 SQUASH {CuawrUia). 
 
 Summer Varieties, One Ounce of Seed to Twenty-five Hills; Winter 
 Sqitashes, Tioo Ounces of Seed to Tweniy-fi/ve Hills. In the whole range 
 of vegetables there 
 is not a class so va- 
 riable in character 
 and habit as the 
 sqnash, and its no- 
 menclature is as 
 strangely mixed. A 
 g'iven variety is 
 called sqiiash iu one 
 place and pumpkin 
 in another ; while in 
 another country the 
 common name of 
 gourd is applied to 
 all. There is a wide 
 difference in the edi- 
 ble qualities of many 
 of the varieties or species, as the case may be. The bush squashes are only 
 edible when green, or in a half ripe state, while some of the running 
 sorts are only in perfection when fully ripe. The bush or summer 
 squash can only be eaten during a few days of its growth, while a 
 Hubbard is edible for many months if kept in a dry, warm room. 
 
 All the sorts are supposed to have had their origin in South America, 
 but the first settlers of our country found them among the Indians as 
 far north as Canada. Our best winter squashes are from seed brought 
 by the early navigators from P,eru. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — A warm, rather light alluvial soil is the best for squashes ; 
 but whatever the character of the garden soil let the ground be 
 well enriched with stable manure, which it is best to broadc9Bt and 
 Bpade or plow in. Make the earth fine and friable by deep working, 
 and plant summer varieties in slightly elevated hills, four feet apart 
 each way, at the same time cucnu-hfr and melon seeds are sown. The 
 
 Mammoth White Bush Squash. 
 
102 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 seeds of both summer and winter squashes germinate most surely and 
 quickly when placed in a vertical position with the eye down. Planting 
 must not begin until all danger of frost is past,-aiid the soil is compara- 
 tively warm . Under each hill place a shovelful of rich compost or rotted 
 
 FoEDHOOK Squash. 
 
 manure, and set from six to eight seeds several inches apart in the hiU. 
 
 Cover early varieties with one inch of soil and press firmly on the seed. 
 
 The usual practice is to plant the late sorts in hills six to eight feet 
 
 apart each way, leaving four plants to a hill. A better plan is to plant 
 
 in rows from 12 to 
 20 feet apart, and to 
 cutout the vines to 
 six feet apart in the 
 rows. Between the 
 rows an early crop 
 of beans, peas, cab- 
 bage, or any crop 
 that can be taken off 
 during July, may be 
 grown. Seed should 
 be planted in June, 
 one and a half inches 
 deep, and the young 
 plants kept well cul- 
 tivated until the 
 vines begin to run rapidly ; then if the cultivator has been the imple- 
 ment employed it should be discarded and the hoe only used, and 
 with caution, that the widely spreading roots be not injured. Give 
 very shallow hoeings, and clear the ground as quickly as possible 
 from all intermediate crops. Under no circumstances use home-grown 
 
 Chicago Warted Hubbard Squash. 
 
TOMATO. 103 
 
 seed ; cross-fertilization is sure to take place in the small garden, if 
 cucumbers or other cucurbits are present. Prom such seed a worthless 
 product will be the result. Summer squashes are ready for the table in 
 from fifty-five to sixty-five days, and winter sorts in from one hundred 
 and fifteen to one hundred and twenty-five days from planting. 
 
 StTMMEE Vaeikties. — The Early White Bush Scalloped is the well 
 known Patty-pan Squash. It is of a light cream color, productive, 
 and the ■earliest to mature. Thq Early Yellow Bush, Scalloped, is 
 similar to the preceding, but of a deep orange color. The New Mam- 
 moth White Bush, Scalloped, or Improved Patty-pan, is of a beautiful 
 white color, ready for use quite early and of large size. Cocozelle 
 Bush, and New Giant Summer Crookneck, are desirable varieties 
 described in "Burpee's Seed Annual." 
 
 Fall and Winter Varieties. — The Boston Marrow is a popu- 
 lar fall squash, with thin, bright-orange skin; flesh also of orange 
 color, tender and rich flavor. The Hubbard is the standard winter 
 sort. The flesh is dry, fine grained; excellent for table use and a 
 good keeper. Pike's Peak is a most excellent winter squash, maturing 
 about the same tiitoe as the Hubbard. The flesh is solid, thick, and 
 of rich golden-orange color; it is a good keeper. Fordhook.is bright 
 cream outside dhd straw yellow within. The flesh is dry and sweet^ 
 the best in quality of all winter squashes. Kept in a cool, dry room, 
 it remains in ■perfect condition throughout the winter and spring and 
 until late in June, when summer squashes are ready. 
 
 TOMATO [Lycopersicum eseulentum). 
 
 One Ounce of Seed mil Produce about Four Thousand Five Bundred 
 Plants. AnaAunal, indigenous to tropical America, thought by De 
 CandoUe to- have been first cultivated by the ancient Peruvians. 
 Humboldt, who gave the subject much study, believed the cultivation 
 of tomatoes to have been of early date in Mexico. It was first grown 
 in Spain early in the sixteenth century, then in Italy, and soon after- 
 ward in Prance, but was not introduced into England until 1596. 
 
 Only in the last century, and that the latter half, has the tomato 
 come under universal cultivation in the United States. Its impor- 
 tance both in the vegetable garden and as a field crop for commercial 
 purposes is so great that the gardener's skill has been taxed to the 
 utmost in the production of new varieties with a view to improvement. 
 In the whole list of garden vegetables there is none so susceptible to 
 treatment ; none more liberally rewards attention, nor so quickly 
 resents neglect, in quantity and quality of fruit. 
 
104 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Culture. — ^A light, rich loam produces the finest tomatoes, but fol 
 earliness moderately rich, sandy soil should be selected. Sow seed in 
 the hotbed or in shallow boxes, which may be placed in the sunny 
 window of a living room about six weeks before time for planting in 
 the open garden. The seed should be sown in driUs six inches apart 
 and covered with a half inch of fine soil. In the latitude of Philadel- 
 phia this is done about the beginning of March. When the second 
 pair of leaves appear transplant to small boxes three inches apart each 
 way or to small thumb-pots. When about three inches high a second 
 transplanting should be made to larger pots in order that the plants 
 may not become root-bound. The seedlings should have plenty of 
 sunlight and fresh air whenever the weather will permit. Transfer 
 
 to the open ground 
 after danger of frost 
 is past, planting 
 from three to four 
 feet apart each way. 
 A later planting 
 may he made by 
 sowing seed in a 
 cold frame from the 
 beginning to the 
 middleof April, and 
 transplanting to the 
 garden about the 
 first of June. 
 
 For a late crop 
 drop a few seeds at 
 each hill of early 
 sweet corn, and as 
 joon as the corn is used cut the stalks ; leave but one sturdy plant 
 to a hiU ; or, for a very late crop in localities where there is no frost 
 before the first of November, tomatoes can be grown by making 
 hills five feet apart each way, and dropping a few seeds in the hills 
 early in June. The first picking from these plants will be the latter 
 part of Septem<ber, and they will be in full bearing two weeks later. 
 At the approach of frost the plants will be loaded with full -sized fruit, 
 just beginning to put on the whitish tinge, — the first indication of 
 ripening. In a warm situation, with northern protection, plow a 
 furrow or dig a trench wide and long enough to contain the plants, 
 which should be cut quite close to the ground. Spread out the plants 
 
 FoBDHOOK First Tomato. {From, a Phatograjph.) 
 
TOMATO. 
 
 105 
 
 •with their green fruit in the trench until about two feet thick, and 
 over theiu place a covering of straw six inches in depth, which hold in 
 place by the use of some light brush. The warmth from the earth 
 will ripen the larger fruit perfectly. Early varieties mature in from 
 ninety to one hundred days from seed ; the later ones in from one 
 hundred and twenty -five to one hundred and fifty days. 
 
 Varieties. — Among the many varieties the following are suggested 
 for the family garden : Fordhook First is a perfectly smooth, solid 
 tomato of first-class appearance and extremely early. Livingston's 
 Reauty is a bright pink, remarkahly solid-fruited variety, bearing 
 smooth, perfectly shaped tomatoes with no green core. The Stone 
 is of a Jiandsome, uniform, deep red color, with large, smooth, 
 and solid ftuits. The 
 JVIatchless is of a very rich 
 cardinal red color and is 
 ,diecidedly the best bright 
 red tomato in oultivation,;, 
 to-day. The fruits are of 
 the largest. size, and the 
 size is maintained through- 
 out the season. Had we to 
 confine ourselves to one 
 variety it would be the 
 Matchless. The New Im- 
 .perial is a fine, large, early 
 tomato, while the Truck- 
 ers' Favorite is the best of 
 all the purple colored to- 
 matoes. To eat as sliced 
 
 raw tomatoes, few can equal in flavor The Turner Hybrid or Mikado. 
 The Golden Queen is decidedly the best of all yellow tomatoes. 
 
 Among small-fruited varieties are Eed Pear-shaped, Yellow Plum- 
 .shaped, Eed and Yellow Cherry, all of which are useful only for pre- 
 serving. 
 
 TURNIP (Brassica rapa). 
 One Ounce of Seed will Sow Two Hundred Feet of Drill. A hardy 
 biennial, native to temperate Europe, from whence at an early date it 
 was difiFosed .throughout Western Asia. The turnip was cultivated as 
 a vegetable by the Greeks 2300 years ago, and in Western Europe be- 
 fore the Christian era, but we have no accounts of its having been 
 
 Tbuokbbs' Favorite Tomato. 
 
106 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE SOME GARDEN. 
 
 grownextensiyely as a field crop before 1600. Gerarde in his "Herbal" 
 (1597) speaks of the turnip as a garden vegetable only. The white 
 varieties have long been known in Great Britain as Dutch Turnips ; 
 the name probably arose from the fact that the English markets were 
 for a long time supplied with turnips by the gardeners of Holland. 
 
 The Swedish Turnip, which attains a mnch larger size, has its parent- 
 age in B. campestris, a slender- rooted form which probably had an ab- 
 original range irom the Scandinavian peninsula to Siberia. It is of 
 more recent introduction and believed to be a native of Sweden. Its 
 varieties are known as Swedes, Euta Bagas, Swedish, and Russian Tur- 
 nips. 
 
 CcLTURB. — The soil best adapted to the turnip is a sandy or gravelly 
 loam. It succeeds best, like kindred plants of the genus Brassica, in 
 
 cool, moist climates 
 near the sea. 
 
 For an early supply 
 sow the seed as soon as 
 the ground can be pre- 
 pared, in finely worked, 
 rich soil. Sow in rows 
 one foot apart and half 
 an inch deep ; thin 
 out the plants to three 
 inches apart. In a 
 favorable season the 
 turnips will be ready 
 for use by the middle of June. For a succession sow every two 
 weeks until the last of July, and for a late crop until the end of 
 August. The crop matures in sixty days from seed. 
 
 Yaeieties. — Early Bed or Purple-Top Strap-Leaved is a quick 
 grower, flesh fine-grained and sweet flavored. Extra Early Purple- 
 Top Milan is the earliest turnip in cultivation. The bulbs are flat, 
 medium size, quite smooth, with a bright-purple top. White Egg 
 is a rapid grower, egg-shaped, with thin, white skin ; flesh solid, flne- 
 grained, and of sweet, mild flavor. Eed Top White Globe is also one 
 of the best early varieties grown ; bulbs globe-shaped with red or pur- 
 ple top; a rapid grower and keeps well. Petrowski is most distinct 
 variety of early maturity. The roots are flat and entirely free from 
 rootlets. It is a desirable variety for autumn sowing. Other va- 
 rieties described in "Burpee's Seed Annual" are Robertson's Golden 
 Ball or Orange Jelly, Yellow Aberdeen, Early White Flat Dutch, 
 Sweet German, or Long White French, Long White, or Cowhorn, 
 
 ,^^^^^^=-^5== 
 
 Extra Eariy Pueple-Top Milah Thknip. 
 
 j/a 
 
RUTA BAGAS, OR SWEDES. 
 
 107 
 
 Pomeranian White Globe, and the New Scarlet Kashmyr Turnip. 
 The latter is a most distinct novelty, bearing a striking resemblance 
 •to a large radish. It is of a deep, rich crimson color above, shading 
 to a soft crimson-rose below; it is a turnip of excellent flavor and 
 high cooking qualities. 
 
 Ruta Bagas, or Swedes. 
 
 The seed of Ruta Bagas should be sown from the latter part of June 
 until the middle of August. In the home garden they can follow early 
 potatoes, peas, or he planted wherever there is a vacant place. The 
 rows should be 15 inches apart, aild seed sown a half an inch deep ; 
 thin out the plants to six inches apart in the rows. In field cul- 
 ture the rows should be from 18 inches 
 to two feet apart to admit of horse culti- 
 vation. 
 
 To have turnips in a fresh, crisp con- 
 dition during ■winter, harvest them be- 
 fore hard frosts, and keep in acold cellar 
 or pit in dry sand or loam. Those in- 
 terested in growing roots for feeding 
 purposes are referred to our little hook, 
 " Eoot Crops for Stock Feeding, and 
 How to Grow Them." 
 
 Vaeieties. — The Monarch, or New 
 Elephant, is a very popular variety in 
 England. It produces large, oval- 
 shaped roota, with short, small necks 
 and relatively small tops ; the skin is 
 dark red above ground and yellow be- 
 low ; flesh, rich yellow, fine-grained, 
 and of the best quality. Owing to the 
 fact that the roots grow so much above 
 ground, it is an easy matter to harvest 
 them. Burpee's Improved Purple-Top 
 Yellow is among the hardiest and most 
 productive varieties in cultivation. It 
 is a large, purple-top, yellow Swede, 
 
 slightly oblong in shape, with single tap-root ; it is free from coarse- 
 ness of neck, keeps weU until late in the spring, and the flesh is 
 sweet and rich. 
 
 MONAECH EUTA BAGA. 
 
108 VEGETABLES FOB TEE SOME 04BDEN. 
 
 SWEET AND MEDICINAL HERBS. 
 
 A few pot and sweet herbs are iudispensable to every well-managed 
 garden. The labor which their simple culture involves is trifling, 
 while they furnish wholesome and appetizing seasoning for soups, 
 meats, etc., the year round. 
 
 They, should be cut on a clear day just before coming into full 
 bloom and dried quickly in the shade. When properly cured pack 
 them away in tin boxes or bottles, so as to exclude the air. In addi- 
 tion to those grown for their agreeable, aromatic flavors, we include 
 several quite useful in domestic medicine. 
 
 CuxTUBE. — General cultural directions for those which follow are 
 about the same. A mellow, sandy soil thoroughly prepared and kept 
 well cultivated js the best. Sow the seed early in spring in shallow 
 drills 12 inch^ apart ; tjover to a depth of twice the thickness of the 
 seed with finely sifted soil, which should be w«ll firmed down on the 
 seed bed. When "the plants are well up thin out or tiaffisplant far 
 enough apart to permit each plant to have plenty of air and sunshine. 
 
 Anise (PirripineUa anisum), — An annua], native of Asia Minor, 
 Greece, and Egypt. Prefers a warm, well^drained soil ; grows rapidly 
 and requires little or no care. Thin oufcthe plants to stand four inches 
 apart. Used in cordials for garnishing and flavoring ; also for dyspep- 
 sia aud colic. 
 
 Balm {Melissa officinalis). — A perennial, native to the South of 
 Europe. The leaves have a fragrant, lemon-like odor, and are used 
 for making balm wine and balm tea, which are thought to have some 
 value in low fevers. Thin out the plants to from eight to twelve 
 inches apart. Also readily propagated by cuttings or division of the 
 roots in fall or spring. 
 
 Basil (Ocymum basilieum). — A native of India, of annual duration. 
 Being tender, this ,plant is best started in the house in a small box or 
 pot of light, rich soil, covered with a pane of glass. Transplant to the 
 garden after the weather becomes warm and settled. Set the plants 
 eight inches apart each way. The leaves have an aromatic flavor 
 resembling Cloves. When just coming into bloom cut back to witiiin 
 two or three inches of ,tbe ground and dry 'the branches in 'the shade. 
 To have the green leaves through the winter, a plant may be transferred 
 to a box or pot and be kept in a sunny window. 
 
 Bene (Sesamum orientale). — A tenier annual, native of the East 
 Indies. The leaves when immersed i u water give out a 'mucilaginous 
 substance which is beneficial in the treatment of dysentery. In Japan 
 
SWEET AND dtEDIOINAL BEBB8. 109 
 
 and parts of Africa the oil obtained from the seeds is used like lard in 
 cookery. The plant is too tender for the Northern United States un- 
 less started under glass. 
 
 Borage {Borago officinalis). — A hardy annual, native to the shores 
 of the Mediterranean in Europe and North Africa. It succeeds well 
 in any garden soil, and if started under glass and transplanted to the 
 garden, -Will bloom all summer. The flowers are a pretty true blue, , 
 and afford excellent food for bees throughout a long season. The 
 leaves are used as a pot-herb. Sow at the same time as other herb 
 seeds and thin out the plants to eight inches apart. 
 
 Caraway [Garum carui). — A biennial, common through the South 
 of Europe, and probably a native of Western Asia. It has been in 
 use from ancient times for flavoring bread, pastry, cheese, sauces, etc. 
 The leaves and young shoots are also sometimes eaten. Sow the Seed 
 where the plants are to grow in drills two feet apart and thin out to 
 eight inches apart in the rows. If the seed is sown in July or August 
 a crop will be pro,duCed the following summer. 
 
 Catnip, or Cat Mint {Nepela cataria). — A hardy perennial, native 
 of Europe, but naturalized in North America and found growing wild 
 throughout most States of the Union. Easily grown from seed sown 
 in spring or fall. The leaves and young shoots are sometimes used 
 for seasoning ; also used as a mild nervine for infants. Two or three 
 plants, two feet apart, will be sufficient. Pall the plants Up by the 
 roots when in flower and dry in the shade. 
 
 Coriander {Coriander sativum). — A hardy annual, native of South- 
 em Europe. The seeds havea strong, aromatic flavor and are used in 
 confectionery and in the manufacture of liqueurs. 
 
 Dill (AnelJium graveolens). — Cultivated as an annual; though of 
 biennial growth in its native habitat, which is Southern Europe. Sow 
 early in spring and keep clear of weeds. The seeds have an aromatic 
 odor and warm, pungent taste. They are used as a condiment and in 
 making pickles. 
 
 Fennel, Sweet (Fceniculum officinale). — A hardy perennial, indig- 
 enous to Southern Europe. The leaves are used in fish sauces and 
 the seeds enter into the composition of liqueurs. 
 
 Horehound (Marrubium milgare). — A hardy perennial, native of 
 Europe, but naturalized in the United States. An infusion of the 
 leaves is used as a tonic. It is also used in confectionery and in 
 domestic medicine as a popular cough remedy. 
 
 Propagated by division of the roots or from seed sown in the fall or 
 early spring. 
 
110 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GAUDEN. 
 
 Hop (Humulus lupulua). — One or two packets . of fresh seed will 
 usually supply sufficient plants for the home garden. A perennial whose 
 original habitat is unknown, but the plant is found growing wild in 
 Europe, from Sweden to the mountains of the Mediterranean region, 
 in Asia Minor, and Eastern Siberia. It is also said to be indigenous to 
 the Eastern United States. 
 
 In Continental Europe the tender shoots are pinched oflF in the 
 spring and used as a vegetable. In Belgium the young shoots are 
 prepared for the table in much the same manner as asparagus and 
 salsify. 
 
 CULTUEE. — The seed germinates slowly, and as its vitality is soon 
 lost should never be used when over one year old. Sow in a box of rich, 
 sandy loam, and cover the seed with two or three times its own thick- 
 ness of finely sifted soil. Keep moist until the plants appear. By far the 
 most satisfactory method of increase is by transplanting pieces of root 
 or by propagating cuttings which should have one healthy eye below 
 and one above the surface. Give the vines stout, long poles or a trellis, 
 and in the fall spread a heavy dressing of manure about the roots. In 
 the Northern and Middle States the crop should be gathered during 
 August. 
 
 Hyssop {Hyssopus officinalis). — A hardy perennial, native to Southern 
 Europe or Siberia and naturalized in the United States. The flowers 
 of the plant are used in domestic medicine as a stimulant and expec- 
 torant, but are not very greatly esteemed by the medical profession. 
 May be raised from seed planted in the spring or by division of the 
 root. Plants should be twelve inches apart each way. 
 
 Lavender (Lavendula vera). — A medicinal herb of perennial dura- 
 tion, indigenous to Southern Europe. This plant is chiefly grown 
 for its flowers, which are very fragrant and much used for perfuming 
 linen ; they are also the source of the essential oil of lavender and the 
 well-known lavender water. For domestic use pick the flowers before 
 they begin to fade and dry quickly in the shade. 
 
 The plant succeeds best in a light, rich soil of calcareous nature. 
 
 As germination is slow and the vitality of the seed uncertain, it is 
 best to sow several packets of seed ; this should be sown in spring 
 where the plants are to grow. Propagation is also effected by division 
 of the roots or by cuttings. Lavender is a lime-feeding plant ; a light 
 dusting of air-slacked lime or wood ashes about the rows in spring 
 will induce a sturdier and more vigorous growth. 
 
 Every third or fourth year set out new cuttings or sow fresh seed. 
 
 Marjoram, Sweet (^Origanum marjorana). — A half hardy herba- 
 
SWEET' AND MEDICINAL HEBBS. HI 
 
 ceous plant, native of the East, but grown in our gardens as aa 
 annual. The leaves and ends of the shoots, both in the green and 
 dried state, are highly esteemed for seasoning. Sow in the spring as 
 directed in the general cultural directions for these plants and thin 
 out to eight inches apart in the rows. 
 
 Pennyroyal {Mentha pulegium). — A perennial, native of Great 
 Britain and Continental Europe. Used for medicinal purposes. The 
 essential oil of pennyroyal is much used for the protection it affords 
 from noxious insects, especially mosquitoes. 
 
 Succeeds best on moist, heavy soils. Propagated from seed, but 
 more readily by division. The vyild pennyroyal of our woods is a 
 native species of annual duration. Sow seed in autumn or spring. 
 
 Rosemary {Bosmarinus officinalis). — A hardy perennial, native to 
 the southern coasts of Europe. The leaves are used for seasoning, and 
 the flowers, vyhich are pale blue, yield under distillation a volatile oil 
 much used in perfumery. Eeadily raised from seed sown early in 
 the spring. 
 
 Rue [Buta graveolens). — A hardy perennial, native of Southern 
 Europe and Eastern Asia. The leaves have a strong odor and disagree- 
 able, acrid taste. Eue is mentioned in old cook-boolss as being used 
 for seasoning food, but many of those who try it for this purpose will 
 probably feel some degree of contempt for the culinary tastes of our 
 forefathers. Eue is used in medicine as an antispasmodic and stimu- 
 lant. It is also good for poultry. 
 
 Sage (Salvia offidnalis). — A hardy perennial, native to Southern 
 Europe. Succeeds best on well drained, rather dry soil of calcareous 
 nature. Easily grown from seed or cuttings. In gardens it is gen- 
 erally grown as a border plant. Sow the seed thinly, early in the 
 spring, in drills twelve inches apart, and thin out the young plants 
 to stand eight inches from each other. Cut when coming into flower 
 and dry quickly in the shade. 
 
 Holt's Mammoth Sage. — After having grown and thoroughly 
 tested this valuable variety for a number of years, we can recommend 
 it most highly. The plants are very strong-growing, the first season 
 attaining one foot in height, and spreading so that a single plant covers 
 a circular space three feet in diameter. The leaves are borne well above 
 the soil, keeping them clean ; they are very large and of unusual sub- 
 stance, strong in flavor, and of superior quality. A single plant 
 will yield more than a dozen plants of the common sort. It is 
 perfectly hardy, even in New England ; it never runs to seed. 
 
 Savory, Summer [Satureia hortensis). — A hardy annual, native of 
 
112 
 
 VEGETABLES- FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Southern Europe, and naturalized in many parts of the United States. 
 Sow a packet or two early in the spring, in light, rich soil. The leaves 
 and flowers are used for flavoring soups and dressings. 
 
 Winter Savory [Satureia moratanei).— This is a hardy perennial 
 indigenous to Southern Europe. Culture, same as for Summer Savory. 
 Tiansy {Timacetum vulgare). — A hardy perennial of European ori- 
 gin, hut common as a wayside weed in the United States. Win grow 
 anywhere The leaves are used as a tonic in domestic medicine. 
 
 Tagetes Lucida or Sweet' Scented Mexiv,an Marigold. — A very pretty 
 plant used as a suhstitute for the true Tarragon. 
 Tarragon {AHemiida Dracunculus) . — A perennial, native of Siberia 
 
 or Southern Europe. 
 The flowers are whit- 
 ish, very small, and 
 almost always barren. 
 The plant is propagated 
 by division of the tufts 
 or from root cuttings. 
 Tarragon possesses a 
 very delicate aromatic 
 flavor which makes it 
 highly appreciated for 
 seasoning salads or for 
 making Tarragon vine- 
 gar. It succeeds best 
 in a rather warm, dry situation. In the Northern States give some 
 protection dnring vyintcr. The foliage should be cut and cured in the 
 same manner as other herbs. 
 
 Thyme {Thymus vulgaris). — A perennial indigenous to Southern 
 Europe. Sow the seed thickly as soon as the ground gets warm in 
 spring and transplant one foot apart each way in July. Thyme suc- 
 ceeds best in well drained, warm garden soil. The plant may also be 
 propagated by division of the roots or from cuttings. 
 
 Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). — A perennial of European 
 origin which was formerly used largely as a vermifuge but is now em- 
 ployed chiefly in the fabrication of various liqueurs. It is said to be 
 beneficial to fowls. Easily propagated by division, or from seed. 
 
 The True Tarragon. {From a Photograph.) 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 USEFUL PLANTING TABLES. 
 
 QUANTITIES OF SEED EEQUIRED IN GARDEN AND FIELD 
 
 CULTURE. 
 ■Artichoke, French, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 6 ounces to an acre. 
 " Jerusalem, 1 quart of tubers to 75 feet of row ; 3 bushels 
 to an acre. 
 Asparagus, 2J ounces to 100 feet of drill ; 2 pounds will produce 
 enough roots to plant an acre. 
 " roots, 5x2 feet, about 4400 plants to an acre. 
 
 Barley, broadcast, 2 to 2J bushels to an acre. 
 Beans, dwarf, 1 quart to 100 feet of drill; IJ bushels to an acre. 
 " " Lima, 1 quart to 100 feet of drill; | bushel to an acre. 
 
 " pole, i pint for 100 hills. . 
 " " In hills, 4x3 feet, 10 quarts to an acre. 
 " " Limas, 20 quarts to an acre. 
 Beet, Garden, 1 ounce to 50 feet of drill ; 4 pounds to an acre. 
 " Mangel, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 5 pounds to an acre. 
 " Sugar, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 5 pounds to an acre. 
 Borecole, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; 1 ounce 
 
 will provide about 5000 plants. 
 Broccoli, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; 1 ounce 
 
 wiU provide about 5000 plants. 
 Broom Com, in drills 10 pounds, or in hills 4 to 6 quarts to an acre. 
 Brussels Sprouts, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; 1 
 
 ounce will provide about 5000 plants. 
 Buckwheat, in drUls J bushel, broadcast 1 bushel to an acre. 
 Cabbage, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; in frames 
 about 6 ounces to plant an acre ; outdoors 
 for transplanting about 10 ounces to an 
 acre. 
 8 113 
 
114 VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 Carrot, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 2J pounds to an acre. 
 Cauliflower, J of an ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 3J ounces to an acre ; 
 
 1 ounce will provide about 2500 plants. 
 Celery, J of an ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; one 
 ounce will produce from 8000 to 15,000 
 plants. 
 Celeriac, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill. 
 Chervil, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill. 
 
 Chicory, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill, or 4 pounds to an acre. 
 Chufas, or Earth Almonds, in drills, 25 pounds to an acre. 
 Clover, see Grasses, page 119. 
 CoUards, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 ounces to an acre ; 1 ounce 
 
 will provide about 5000 plants. 
 Corn, Field, in hills, 1 quart to 200 hills ; 7 to 9 quarts to an acre. 
 
 " For fodder, in drills 3J feet apart, 12 to 16 quarts to an acre. 
 
 " In drills, foi' soiling, 3 bushels to an acre. 
 
 " Kaffir, 3 to 5 pounds to an acre. 
 
 " Rice, shelled, in hills, 2 quarts to an acre. 
 
 " For soiling, 3 bushels to an acre, broadcast. 
 
 '■ Sweet, from J to ^ pint to 100 hills ; in hills 1 peck to an acre. 
 
 " Salad, 3 ounces to 100 feet of drill. 
 Cress, Upland and Curled, J ounce to 100 feet of drill ; about 3 pounds, 
 to the acre. 
 
 " Water, 1 ounce will sow 16 feet square in drills ; from 2 to 3 
 pounds to an acre. 
 Cucumbers, from 1 to 2 ounces to 100 hills ; 1 to 2 pounds to an acre. 
 Dandelion, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill. 
 Egg Plant, 1 ounce will sow 300 feet of drill or produce from 1000 to 
 
 2000 plants ; 4 ounces to an acre. 
 Endive, \ ounce will sow 100 feet of drill ; 4J pounds to an acre. 
 Flax, for seed, J bushel per acre ; for fibre, 2 to 3 bushels per acre. 
 Garlic, 1 pound of bulbs to 10 feet of drill. 
 Gourd, 2 ounces to 100 hills. 
 Grasses, see page 118. 
 Hemp, J bushel to an acre. 
 Horse Eadish Eoots, 10,000 to 15,000 to an acre. 
 Kale, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 2 pounds to an acre ; 1 ounce will 
 
 provide about 5000 plants. 
 Kohl Rabi, 1 ounce to 300 feet of drill ; 4 pounds to an acre. 
 Leek, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 4 pounds to an acre. 
 Lettuce, } ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 3 pounds to an acre. 
 
APPENDIX. lis 
 
 Martynia, J ounce of seed to 100 hills ; 5 pounds to an acre. 
 Melons, Musk, 2 ounces to 100 hills ; 4 x 4 ft. apart, 2 pounds to an acre. 
 
 ' ' Water, 4 ounces to 100 hills ; 8 x 8 ft. apart, 3 pounds to an acre. 
 Mustard, broadcast, f bushel to an acre. 
 
 Nasturtium, 2 ounces to 100 feet of drill ; 15 pounds to an acre. 
 Oats, broadcast, 2 to 3 bushels to an acre. 
 Okra, 2 ounces to 100 feet of drill ; 10 pounds to an acre. 
 Onion seed, \ ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 4 to 5 pounds per acre. 
 
 " " for sets, 50 to 80 pounds to an acre. 
 
 " sets, small, 1 quart to 40 feet of drill ; 8 bushels to an acre. 
 Parsley, J ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 3 pounds to an acre. 
 Parsnips, J ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 3 pounds to an acre. 
 Peas, Cow, and Field, broadcast, 2 to 3 bushels to an acre. 
 
 " Garden, 1 to 2 pints to 100 feet of drill ; IJ to 2 bushels to an acre. 
 Peanuts, Spanish, 2 bushels in pods to an acre. 
 " Virginia, 2 bushels in pods to an acre. 
 Pepper, 1 ounce will produce about 1500 plants ; 3 ounces to an acre. 
 Potatoes, Sweet, 500 plants to 250 to 325 feet of row. 
 
 " White, \ bushel of sets will plant 300 feet of row ; 8 to 10 
 bushels of sets in drills will plant an acre. 
 Pumpkins, 1 pound to from 200 to 300 hills ; 3 to 4 pounds to an acre. 
 Radish, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 10 to 12 pounds in drills to an acre. 
 Eape, Dwarf Essex, broadcast, 3 pounds to an acre. 
 Eice, 2 to 2J bushels to an acre. 
 
 Rhubarb, 1 ounce of seed to 125 feet of drill ; 3J pounds to an acre. 
 Rye, broadcast, IJ bushels to an acre. 
 
 Salsify, 1 ounce of seed to 100 feet of drill ; 8 pounds to an acre. 
 Sfcorzonera, 1 ounce of seed to 100 feet of drill. 
 Soja or Soy bean, J bushel to an acre. 
 Sorghum, broadcast, 10 to 12 pounds to an acre. 
 5i)inach, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill ; 8 pounds to an acre. 
 
 " broadcast, 30 pounds to an acre. 
 Spurry, 15 pounds to an acre. 
 Sugar Cane, 3 to 5 pounds to an acre. 
 
 Summer Savory, 1 ounce to 500 feet of drill ; 2 pounds to an acre. 
 Sunflower, Mammoth Russian, 8 pounds to an acre. 
 Squash, Summer, 4 ounces to 100 hills ; 3 pounds to an acre. 
 
 ' ' Fall and Winter, 8 ounces to 100 hills ; 3 to 4 pounds to an acre. 
 Tares, Spring, or Vetch, in drills ; 1 bushel to an acre. 
 Teosinte, 3 pounds to an acre, in drills 3J to 4 feet apart. 
 Tobacco, 1 ounce to 5000 plants ; "2 ounces to an acre. 
 
116 VEGETABLES FOB THE SOME GARDEN. 
 
 Tomato, 1 otmce of seed will produce from 3000 to 4500 plants ; 2 
 
 ounces to an acre. 
 Turnip, 1 ounce to 200 feet of drill ; 2 pounds to an acre ; broadcast, 
 
 1 pound to an acre. 
 Vetch Common Kidney, 1 bushel to an acre. 
 
 " Hairy ; 1 bushel to an acre. 
 Wheat, broadcast, IJ to 2 bushels ; in drills, IJ bushels to an acre. 
 
 TIME EEQUIRED FROM PLANTING UNTIL GARDEN CROP^ 
 ARE READY FOR USE. 
 
 Averages from the trial records of Fordhook Farms. 
 
 Bays. 
 Artichoke, French, . 120 to 130 
 Asparagus, (from 2 
 ,year old roots in 
 bearing), one year 
 Beans, Dwarf, Snap, . 43 to 60* 
 " " SheU, 60 to 70* 
 
 " " Lima, 78 to 90 
 
 " Pole 110 to 120 
 
 Beet, Garden, . . 60 to 85 
 (According to con- 
 dition of soil and 
 season.) 
 Borecole or Kale, . 100 to 130 
 
 Broccoli, 120 to 145 
 
 Brussel Sprouts, . . 140 to 150 
 
 Cabbage, Early, . .100 to 110 
 
 " Late, ... 140 to 160 
 
 Carrot, Early, 70 to 95 to 100 
 
 " Late 110 to 120 
 
 Cauliflower, .... 105 to 115* 
 Celery, . . . 140 to 160 to 175 
 
 Collards, 80 to 90 
 
 Com, Sweet, Earliest, 55 to 75* 
 " " Late, . 85 to 95* 
 
 " Salad 60 to 65 
 
 Cress, 30 to 40 
 
 Cucumber, Earliest, 50 to 55 
 " Main crop, 65 to 76 
 Egg Plant, .... 145 to 160* 
 
 Endive, 43 to 50 
 
 Lettuce, , . . 40 to 60 to 65* 
 
 Martynia, 60 to 80 
 
 Melons, Musk, Earli- 
 est 90 to 100* 
 
 Days. 
 
 Melons, Musk, 
 
 Main crop, 115 to 140* 
 " Water, Main 
 
 crop, ... 120 to 140* 
 
 Okra, 90 to 105 
 
 Onions, Earliest, . . 100 to 110* 
 " Main Crop,. . 130* to 160* 
 
 Parsnips, 125 to 140 
 
 Peas, Earliest, ... 49 to 60 
 " Main Crop,. . 65 to 88 
 
 Pepper, 135 to 160* 
 
 Potatoes, Sweet, Ear- 
 liest (From 
 transplant- 
 ing) .... 80 to 95 
 " Sweet, Main 
 Crop (From 
 transplant'g)100 to 120 
 " White, Ear- 
 liest, ... 85 to 100 
 " Medium Late, 95 to 120 
 
 " Late 120 to 135 
 
 Pumpkins, .... 105 to 120 
 
 Radish, Earliest, ., 18 to 22 
 
 " Later sorts,' . 25 to 45 
 
 Salsify 130 to 140 
 
 Spinach, 21 to 30 
 
 " New Zealand, 40 to 55 
 
 Squash, Summer, . 55 to 65* 
 
 " Winter, ... 115 to 125* 
 
 Tomato, Earliest, . 90 to 100 
 
 " Main Crop, . 125 to 150* 
 
 Turnips, 60* 
 
 * Maturity. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 117 
 
 NUMBER OP PLANTS OR TREES TO AN ACRE AT GIVEN 
 DISTANCES. 
 
 liE 
 
 L.X lin 
 
 2 ' 
 
 X 2 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X 3 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X 4 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 5 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 6 ' 
 
 X 6 " 
 
 6 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 6 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 8 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 9 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 10 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X 15 ". 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X18 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X30 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X36 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X42 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 ' X 48 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X54 " 
 
 12 ' 
 
 X60 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X30 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X36 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X42 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X48 " 
 
 15 ' 
 
 X54 •' 
 
 L5 ' 
 
 X60 " 
 
 18 ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 L8 ' 
 
 X30 " 
 
 8 ' 
 
 X36 " 
 
 8 ' 
 
 X42 " 
 
 8 ' 
 
 X48 " 
 
 L8 ' 
 
 X54 " 
 
 L8 ' 
 
 X60 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X20 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X30 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X36 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X42 " 
 
 !0 ' 
 
 X48 " 
 
 SO ' 
 
 X54 " 
 
 -0 ' 
 
 X60 " 
 
 A ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 or 2 
 
 2J 
 
 3 
 
 3^ 
 
 4 
 
 4^ 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 3 
 
 3J 
 
 4 
 
 4J 
 
 5 
 
 If 
 
 2 
 
 2J 
 
 •i* 
 
 4 
 4i 
 5 
 3 
 
 ft. 
 
 Plants. 
 
 6,272,640 
 
 1,568,160 
 
 696,960 
 
 174,240 
 
 392,040 
 
 196,020 
 
 130,680 
 
 104,544 
 
 174,240 
 
 130,680 
 
 8',, 120 
 
 65,340 
 
 58,080 
 
 52,272 
 
 43,360 
 
 34,848 
 
 29,040 
 
 21,780 
 
 17,424 
 
 14,520 
 
 12,446 
 
 10,890 
 
 9,680 
 
 8,712 
 
 17,424 
 
 13,936 
 
 11,616 
 
 9,953 
 
 8,712 
 
 7,744 
 
 6,969 
 
 14,520 
 
 11,616 
 
 9,680 
 
 8,297 
 
 7,260 
 
 6,453 
 
 5,808 
 
 15,681 
 
 13,168 
 
 10,454 
 
 8,712 
 
 7,467 
 
 6,534 
 
 5,308 
 
 5,227 
 
 10.890 
 
 24 ii] 
 
 . X30in 
 
 24 ' 
 
 X36 " 
 
 24 ' 
 
 X42 " 
 
 24 ' 
 
 X48 " 
 
 24 ' 
 
 X60 " 
 
 3ft 
 
 . X 2ft 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X 3 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X 4 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X 6 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 3 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X 4 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X 6 " 
 
 4 • 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 5 ' 
 
 X 5 " 
 
 5 ' 
 
 X 6 " 
 
 5 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 5 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 6 ' 
 
 X 6 " 
 
 6 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 6 " 
 
 X12" 
 
 7 ' 
 
 X 7 " 
 
 7 ' 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 7 " 
 
 X12 " 
 
 8 " 
 
 X 8 " 
 
 8 ' 
 
 X12 " 
 
 9 " 
 
 X 9 " 
 
 9 " 
 
 X12 " 
 
 9 " 
 
 X18 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 Xio " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X18 " 
 
 10 ' 
 
 X20 " 
 
 10 ' 
 
 X24 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X30 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X36 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X42 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X48 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X54 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 X60 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X12 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X15 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X18 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X20 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X24-" 
 
 12 " 
 
 Xsn " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X36 " 
 
 '3 
 '3J 
 
 ■A 
 '5 
 
 ■ft., 
 
118 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 NUMBER OF 
 
 12 ft. 
 
 X42ft., 
 
 12 " 
 
 X48 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X54 " 
 
 12 " 
 
 X60 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X15 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X20 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X24 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X30 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X36 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X42 " 
 
 15 " 
 
 X48 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 X18 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 X24 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 X30 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 X36 " 
 
 18." 
 
 X42 " 
 
 18 " 
 
 X48 " 
 
 20 " 
 
 X20 " 
 
 20 " 
 
 X24 " 
 
 20 " 
 
 X30 " 
 
 20 " 
 
 X36 " 
 
 20 " 
 
 X42 " 
 
 PLANTS OR TREES TO AN ACRE AT. GIVEN 
 DISTANCES.— CoJiM»iMe(i. 
 
 Plants. 
 45 
 75 
 60 
 50 
 43 
 37 
 48 
 40 
 84 
 30 
 33 
 28 
 25 
 24 
 21 
 18 
 16 
 15 
 14 
 13 
 12 
 
 Planls. 
 
 
 
 86 
 
 20 ft. X48ft., 
 
 75 
 
 24 
 
 " X24 " 
 
 67 
 
 24 
 
 " X30 " 
 
 60 
 
 24 
 
 " X36 " 
 
 193 
 
 24 
 
 " X42 " 
 
 145 
 
 24 
 
 " X48 " 
 
 121 
 
 30 
 
 " X30 " 
 
 96 
 
 30 
 
 " X 36 " 
 
 80 
 
 30 
 
 " X42 " 
 
 69 
 
 30 
 
 " X48 " 
 
 60 
 
 36 
 
 ' X36 " 
 
 134 
 
 36 
 
 " X42 " 
 
 100 
 
 36 
 
 " X48 " 
 
 80 
 
 42 
 
 " X 42 " 
 
 67 
 
 42 
 
 " X 48 " 
 
 57 
 
 48 
 
 " X48 " 
 
 50 
 
 48 
 
 " X54 " 
 
 108 
 
 48 
 
 " X 60 " 
 
 90 
 
 54 
 
 " X 54 " 
 
 72 
 
 54 
 
 " X60 " 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 " X60 " 
 
 51 
 
 
 
 Bute to Find the Number of Plants Bequired to Plant an Acre. — Mul- 
 tiply the length by the rndth in feet, and see how many times the 
 number thTis obtained is contained in 43,560, the number of square 
 feet in an acre. For instance, if plants are set 3 feet by 2 feet apart, 
 we have, 3 feet X 2 feet = 6 square feet ; 43,560 square feet divided 
 by 6 gives 7,260, which is the number of plants required to plant an 
 acre 3 feet by 2 feet apart. 
 
 GRASS AND FORAGE CROPS. 
 
 W&ighi per 
 Grasses : — bmhel. 
 
 Awnless Brome (Bromua inermis) ^ 14 lbs. 
 
 Beimnia, [Cynodon dactglon) . , .^ i 35 " 
 
 Creeping Bent {Agrostis stolonifera) 20 ** 
 
 Crested Dogsta,il ( Oynoaurus eria(atus) in mix- 
 ture... 21 " 
 
 Darnel-Leaved or Rye Fescue {Feetuca lolia- 
 cea) 
 
 Bast India or Pearl Millet 48 " 
 
 English or Perennial Eye (LoUvm perenne) . 24 " 
 
 Fowl Meadow {Poa eerotina) mix with Red Top 12 " 
 
 Golden or German Millet {Panicum miliaceum 
 
 var.) 50 « 
 
 acre. 
 3 bush, or 42 lbs. 
 
 6 to 8 " 
 
 2 " or 40 « 
 
 25 " 
 
 40 " 
 
 10 « 
 
 72 " 
 
 6 " 
 
 60 « 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 119 
 
 -GRASS AND FORAGE CROPS.— Oojifmuld. 
 
 Grasses:— ^Zihl!^ 
 
 Hard Fescue {Featuca duHuscula) about 12 lbs. 
 
 Herd or Red Top {Agrostia vulgaris) 14 " 
 
 Hungarian Millet (Panicum germanicum) . ... 48 " 
 
 Italian Rye {Lolium italicum) 20 " 
 
 Johnson (Sorghum halapenae) 25 " 
 
 Kentucky Blue (Poa pratenais) 14 " 
 
 Lawn, Burpee's Fordhook Finest 20 ** 
 
 Meadow Fescue (Featuca pratenaia) 22 " 
 
 Meadow Foxtail {Alopeeurus pratenaia) about 7 " 
 
 Meadow Soft or Velvet (ffo^cus io»m«M») 7 " 
 
 Mijcture for Permanent Pasture 14 " 
 
 OTohard {Dactylia glomerata) 14 " 
 
 Red or Creeping Fescue {Featuca rubra) 14 " 
 
 Red Top (see Herd Grass) 
 
 Rhode Island Bent {Agroatia canina) 14 " 
 
 Rough Stalked Meadow {Poa trivialia) 14 " 
 
 Sheep Fescue (Featuca ovina) about 12 " 
 
 Sweet Vernal — True Perennial — (Anthroxan- 
 
 thum odoratum) 10 *' 
 
 Tall Meadow Fescue (Featuca elatior) 14 " 
 
 Tall Meadow Oat (Avena elatior) 10 " 
 
 Timothy or Herd Grass (PAZewm ^rotcnse). . . 45 " 
 
 Various Leaved Fescue (Featuad heternphyllii) 14 " 
 
 Wood Meadow (Poa nemoralia) 14 " 
 
 Yellow Oat (Avena Jlaveacena) 7 " 
 
 Clotek, etc : — ■ 
 
 Alfalfa or Lucerne (Medicago aativa) 60 " 
 
 Alsike or Swedish Hybrid Clover ( Trifolium 
 
 hybridum) 60 " alone 
 
 Bokhara Clover (ilfeZi7otM8 leucantha) 60 " 
 
 Crimson or Scarlet Clover ( Trifolium incarna- 
 
 tum).:. 60 " 
 
 Japan Clover (Leapedeaa striata) about 18 " 
 
 Mammoth Red or Pea Vine Clover ( Trifolium 
 
 pratenae perenne) 60 " 
 
 Medium Red ( Trifolium pratenae) 60 " 
 
 Sainfoia (Onobrychia aativa) (unshellcd) 24 " 
 
 SojaBean 60 " 
 
 Vetch, Sand or Hairy ( Fioia J!j'Wo»a) 60 " 
 
 Yetch,GommonKi(iney(Anthylliavulneraria) 60 " 
 
 "White Clover ( Trifolium repena) 60 " 
 
 Yellow Trefoil or Hop Clover (Medicago lupu- 
 
 lina) 60 « 
 
 Quantity pej 
 
 acre 
 
 
 30 lbs. 
 
 42 
 
 (( 
 
 48 
 
 iC 
 
 60 
 
 a 
 
 25 
 
 ti 
 
 35 
 
 '■ 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 " 
 
 40 
 
 '- 
 
 25 
 
 " 
 
 25 
 
 a 
 
 42 
 
 tt 
 
 42 
 
 it 
 
 28 
 
 (t 
 
 28 
 
 it 
 
 35 
 
 tt 
 
 30 
 
 tt 
 
 25 
 
 ft 
 
 42 
 
 tt 
 
 50 
 
 tt 
 
 15 
 
 tt 
 
 42 
 
 tt 
 
 28 
 
 tt 
 
 25 
 
 it 
 
 20 to 30 
 
 8 to 12 
 
 30 to 60 
 
 alone 15 
 
 12 
 
 alone 15 
 
 15 to 20 
 
 48 
 
 30 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 18 
 
120 
 
 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 WEIGHTS OF AGEICULTUEAL AND OTHER COMMODITIES. 
 
 Fowndsp&r bushel. 
 
 Apples, about 48 
 
 " Dried, 22 
 
 Artichoke, Jerusalem, . about 60 
 
 Ashes, Wood, about 48 
 
 Barley, . . (Penna. 47) . . . 48 
 Beans, Dwarf, Pole, and Lima, 60 
 
 Beets, 55 
 
 Bran, 20 
 
 Broom Corn, 46 
 
 Buckwheat, 48 
 
 Canary Seed, 60 
 
 Carrots, 55 
 
 Castor Beans, (Eicinns), ... 46 
 
 Charcoal, 22 
 
 Chestnuts, 50 to 56 
 
 Chu&s, about 44 
 
 Clovers, see page 119. 
 
 Coal, Anthracite, 80 
 
 Corn, Pop, . . • 56 
 
 " Sweet, Shelled, . about 48 
 
 " Field, on ear, 70 
 
 " " Shelled 56 
 
 " Meal, 50 
 
 Cotton Seed (Sea Island 40) . 30 
 Cranberries, ........ 40 
 
 Durra and Kaffir Corn, . about 50 
 
 Flaxseed, 56 
 
 Hair, Plastering, 8 
 
 Hemp, 44 
 
 Hickory Nuts, ,. 60 
 
 Hungarian Grass, 48 
 
 Lime,* Building, 70 
 
 Lime, .Land, 80 
 
 Malt, 38 
 
 Millet, Golden or German, . . 50 
 
 PowruU per busliel. 
 
 Millo, Maize, 50 
 
 Oats, 32 
 
 Onions, . (Penna. 50) . . 54 
 
 Osage Orange, 33 
 
 Parsnips, .55 
 
 Peaches, about 40 
 
 Dried 28 
 
 Peach Pits, . 46 
 
 Peanuts, White and Eed, . . 22 
 
 Spanish, 24 
 
 Peas, Canada, Cow, Field, and 
 
 Smooth Garden, 60 
 
 Peas, Wrinkled, 56 
 
 Potatoes, Sweet, 56 
 
 " White, 60 
 
 Pnmpkin, Common Field, 
 
 about 28 
 
 Eape, 50 
 
 Eye, 56 
 
 Sainfoin, 20 
 
 Salt, Coarse, 50 
 
 '■ Fine, 56 
 
 SheUbarks, 60 
 
 Soja Beans, 60 
 
 Sorghum, 50 
 
 Spinach Seed, 38 
 
 Squash Seed, Winter, . about 38 
 
 Sugar Cane, 50 
 
 Sunflower, about 24 
 
 Tares or Vetches, 60 
 
 Turnips, 58 
 
 Vetches, 60 
 
 Walnuts, Black 60 
 
 Wheat, 60 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture : — 
 
 Copper sulphate, pounds 6 
 
 Fresh caustic lime, " ,4 
 
 Water, gallons 22 
 
 In a barrel that will hold 45 gallons dissolve the copper sulphate, 
 using eight or ten gallons of water, or as much as may be necessary 
 
 * In many parts of Pennsylvania the practice of the trade ia to sell building 
 Lime at 75 pounds to the hushel. 
 
APPENDIX. 121 
 
 for the purpose. In a tub or half barrel slake the lime. When com- 
 pletely slaked add enough water to make a creamy whitewash. Ponr 
 this slowly into the barrel containing the copper sulphate solution, 
 using a coarse gunny sack stretched over the head of the barrel for a 
 strainer. Finally, fill the barrel half full of water, stir thoroughly, 
 and the mixture is ready for use. The 50 or 60 gallon formula is 
 made in the same way except that 50 or 60 gallons of water is added 
 instead of 22 gallons. 
 
 Corrosive Sublimate Solution: — 
 
 Corrosive sublimate, ounces 2i 
 
 Water, gallons 15 
 
 This solution is used for potato scab. The corrosive sublimate is 
 dissolved in about two gallons of hot water, and after an interval of 
 ten or twelve hours diluted ■with 13 gallons of water. The potatoes to 
 be planted are immersed in the solution for one and one-half hours, 
 after which they are spread out to dry, then cut and planted as usual. 
 A half barrel is a convenient receptacle for the solution. The potatoes 
 may be put into a coarse sack and suspended in the liquid, first wash- 
 ing the tubers. Corrosive sublimate is very poisonous and should be 
 kept out of the way of children and animals. All treated tubers 
 should be planted or destroyed. 
 
 Kerosene Emuhion. — This is specially adapted to sucking insects, 
 including plant bugs, plant-lice, scale insects, thrips, and plant-feed- 
 ing mites. The kerosene and soap emulsion is prepared as follows : — 
 
 Kerosene, gallons 2 
 
 Whale-oil soap (or 1 quart soft soap), .... pound J 
 Water, gallon 1 
 
 Dissolve the soap in boiling water, and add the hot solution, away 
 from the fire, to the kerosene. Agitate violently for five minutes by 
 pumping the liquid back upon itself with a force pump until the 
 mixture assumes the consistency of cream. Well made, the emulsion 
 will keep indefinitely, and should be diluted only as wanted for use. 
 
 In limestone or hard-water regions it is best to use the milk 
 emulsiou. 
 
 Kerosene, gallons 2 
 
 Milk (sour), " 1 
 
 Heating is unnecessary ; churn as in the former case for three to 
 five minutes, or until a thick buttery consistency results. Prepare 
 the milk emulsion from time to time fbr immediate use. 
 
122 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GARDEN. 
 
 EAIN-FALL AND SNOW OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Anmual and Seasonal Averages, Seasonal Variations and Cubic Miles fofi 
 each State. 
 
 
 2 H 
 > 
 
 % 
 
 o 
 
 i 
 
 <! 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 si 
 1 
 
 to-. 
 
 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 
 Alabama, 
 
 52,250 
 
 14.9 
 
 13.8 
 
 10.0 
 
 14.9 
 
 53.6 
 
 1.5 
 
 44.2 
 
 
 
 Arizona, 
 
 113,020 
 
 1.3 
 
 4.3 
 
 2.2 
 
 3.1 
 
 10.9 
 
 3.3 
 
 19.4 
 
 
 
 Arkansas, 
 
 53,850 
 
 14.3 
 
 12.5 
 
 11.0 
 
 12.8 
 
 50.6 
 
 8.9 
 
 42.5 
 
 California, 
 
 158,360 
 
 6.2 
 
 0.3 
 
 3.5 
 
 11.9 
 
 21.9 
 
 40.0 
 
 54.9 
 
 Colorado, 
 
 103,925 
 
 4.2 
 
 5.5 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.3 
 
 14.8 
 
 2.4 
 
 24.2 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 4,990 
 
 11.1 
 
 12.5 
 
 11.7 
 
 11.5 
 
 46.8 
 
 1.1 
 
 3.6 
 
 
 2,050 
 
 10.2 
 
 11.0 
 
 10.0 
 
 9.6 
 
 40.8 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.3 
 
 
 
 District of Columbia, . . . 
 
 70 
 
 11.0 
 
 12.4 
 
 9.4 
 
 9.0 
 
 41.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 0.04 
 
 Florida, 
 
 68,680 
 
 10.2 
 
 21.4 
 
 14.2 
 
 9.1 
 
 64.9 
 
 2.4 
 
 51.0 
 
 Georgia, 
 
 69,475 
 
 12.4 
 
 15.6 
 
 10.7 
 
 12.7 
 
 51.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 48.2 
 
 Idaho, 
 
 84,800 
 
 4.4 
 
 , 2.1 
 
 3.6 
 
 7.0 
 
 17.1 
 
 3.3 
 
 22.7 
 
 
 
 Illinois, 
 
 56,630 
 
 10.2 
 
 11.2 
 
 9.0 
 
 7.7 
 
 38.1 
 
 1.5 
 
 34.0 
 
 
 36,350 
 
 11.0 
 
 11.7 
 
 9.7 
 
 10.3 
 
 42.7 
 
 1.2 
 
 24.2 
 
 
 
 Indian Territory, 
 
 31,400 
 
 10.6 
 
 11.0 
 
 8.9 
 
 6.7 
 
 36.2 
 
 1.9 
 
 17.7 
 
 Iowa 
 
 56,025 
 
 8.3 
 
 12.4 
 
 8.1 
 
 4.1 
 
 32.9 
 
 3.0 
 
 28.8 
 
 Kansas 
 
 82,080 
 
 8.9 
 
 11.9 
 
 6.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 31.0 
 
 3.4 
 
 40.0 
 
 Kentucky 
 
 40,400 
 
 12.4 
 
 12.5 
 
 9.7 
 
 11.8 
 
 46 4 
 
 1.3 
 
 29.3 
 
 Louisiana 
 
 48,720 
 
 13.7 
 
 15.0 
 
 10.8 
 
 14.4 
 
 63.9 
 
 1.4 
 
 41.6 
 
 Maine, 
 
 33,040 
 
 11.1 
 
 10.5 
 
 12.3 
 
 11.1 
 
 46.0 
 
 1.2 
 
 23.2 
 
 
 
 Maryland, 
 
 12,210 
 
 11.4 
 
 12.4 
 
 10.7 
 
 9.5 
 
 44.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 8.3 
 
 Massachusetts, 
 
 8,315 
 
 11.6 
 
 11.4 
 
 11.9 
 
 ii.7 
 
 46.6 
 
 1.0 
 
 5.9 
 
 Michigan 
 
 58,915 
 
 7.9 
 
 9.7 
 
 9.2 
 
 7.0 
 
 38.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 81.3 
 
 Minnesota, 
 
 83,365 
 
 6.5 
 
 10.8 
 
 5.8 
 
 3.1 
 
 26.2 
 
 3.5 
 
 34.4 
 
 Mississippi, 
 
 46,810 
 
 14.9 
 
 12.6 
 
 10.1 
 
 16.4 
 
 53.0 
 
 1.5 
 
 38.8 
 
 Missouri, 
 
 69,415 
 
 10.0 
 
 12.4 
 
 9.1 
 
 6.5 
 
 38.0 
 
 1.9 
 
 41.2 
 
 
 
APPENDIX. 123 
 
 BAIN-FALL AND SNOW OF THE UNITED STATES.— CojiimMcd. 
 
 
 S5 d 
 ^1 
 
 a 
 
 g 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 < 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ji 
 
 OS 
 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 Ins. 
 
 
 Montana 
 
 146,080 
 
 4.2 
 
 4.9 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.3 
 
 14.0 
 
 2.1 
 
 32.1 
 
 Nebraska 
 
 77,610 
 
 8.9 
 
 10.9 
 
 4.9 
 
 2.2 
 
 26.-9 
 
 6.0 
 
 32.9 
 
 Nevada, 
 
 110,700 
 
 2.3 
 
 0.8 
 
 1.3 
 
 3.2 
 
 7.6 
 
 4.0 
 
 14.4 
 
 New Hampshire, 
 
 9,30s 
 
 9.8 
 
 12.2 
 
 11.4 
 
 10.7 
 
 44.1 
 
 1.2 
 
 6.3 
 
 New Jersey, ... 
 
 7,815 
 
 11.7 
 
 13.3 
 
 11.2 
 
 11.1 
 
 47.3 
 
 1.2 
 
 6.0 
 
 New Mexico 
 
 122,580 
 
 1.4 
 
 6.8 
 
 3.5 
 
 2.0 
 
 12.7 
 
 4.1 
 
 24.6 
 
 New York 
 
 49,170 
 
 8.5 
 
 10.4 
 
 9.7 
 
 7.9 
 
 36.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 28.3 
 
 North Carolina 
 
 52,250 
 
 12.9 
 
 16.6 
 
 12.0 
 
 12.2 
 
 53.7 
 
 1.4 
 
 44.2 
 
 North Dakota, . . 
 
 70,795 
 
 4.6 
 
 8.0 
 
 2.3 
 
 1.7 
 
 17.1 
 
 4.7 
 
 19.1 
 
 
 41,060 
 
 10.0 
 
 11.9 
 
 9.0 
 
 9.1 
 
 40.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 26.7 
 
 
 
 Oregon, 
 
 96,030 
 
 9.8 
 
 2.7 
 
 10.5 
 
 21.0 
 
 44.0 
 
 7.8 
 
 66.7 
 
 Pennsylvania, ...... 
 
 45,215 
 
 10.3 
 
 12.7 
 
 10.0 
 
 9.6 
 
 42.5 
 
 1.3 
 
 30.2 
 
 Rhode Island • . 
 
 1,250 
 
 11.9 
 
 10.7 
 
 11.7 
 
 12.4 
 
 46.7 
 
 1.2 
 
 0.8 
 
 South Carolina 
 
 30,570 
 
 9.8 
 
 16.2 
 
 9.7 
 
 9.7 
 
 45.4 
 
 1.7 
 
 21.6 
 
 South Dakota 
 
 77,650 
 
 7.2 
 
 9.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 2.5 
 
 22.9 
 
 3.9 
 
 28,1 
 
 Tennessee, 
 
 42,050 
 
 13.5 
 
 12.5 
 
 10.2 
 
 14.5 
 
 50.7 
 
 1.4 
 
 33.4 
 
 
 265,780 
 
 8.1 
 
 8.6 
 
 7.6 
 
 6.0 
 
 30.3 
 
 1.4 
 
 127.0 
 
 
 
 Utah, 
 
 84,970 
 
 3.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 2.2 
 
 3.5 
 
 10.6 
 
 2.3 
 
 14.3 
 
 
 
 Vermont, 
 
 9,565 
 
 9.2 
 
 12.2 
 
 11.4 
 
 9.3 
 
 42.1 
 
 1.3 
 
 6.1 
 
 
 
 Tirginia, 
 
 42,450 
 
 10.9 
 
 12.5 
 
 9.5 
 
 9.7 
 
 42.6 
 
 1.3 
 
 28.6 
 
 Washington 
 
 69,180 
 
 8.6 
 
 3.9 
 
 10.5 
 
 16.8 
 
 39.8 
 
 4.3 
 
 43.4 
 
 West Virginia, 
 
 24,780 
 
 10.9 
 
 12.9 
 
 9.0 
 
 10.0 
 
 42.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 16.6 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 66,040 
 
 7.8 
 
 11.6 
 
 7.8 
 
 52 
 
 32.5 
 
 2.2 
 
 28.7 
 
 Wyoming 
 
 97,890 
 
 4.3 
 
 3.5 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.6 
 
 11.6 
 
 2.7 
 
 17.9 
 
 Total 
 
 2,985,850 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1,407.14 
 
 ATCrage, 
 
 
 9.2 
 
 10.3 
 
 8.3 
 
 8.6 
 
 36.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 28.^2 
 
124 VEGETABLES FOB THE HOME GABDEN. 
 
 The average rainfall and snow of all stations, by States, gives for 
 the spring, 9.2 inches ; for summer, 10.3 inches ; for autumn, 8.;{ 
 inches ; and for winter, 8.6 inches, and a total for the year of about 
 36 inches. It appears that the rainfall over the United States 
 generally is quite evenly distributed through the year, varying in 
 total amount for the seasons from 10.3 for summer to 8.3 for autumn. 
 The spring and summer rainfalls are the highest ; other things being 
 equal the rainfalls of spring, and, next to that, of summer are the 
 most useful for agricultural operations. 
 
 With the depth given it is not difficult to get the average total 
 rainfall for the entire United States (excluding Alaska, where we 
 have not sufficient information). For this purpose we may take the 
 average for each State and multiply it by the area of the state, in- 
 cluding water surfaces. 
 
 Adding these together we get 1,407 cubic miles as the average 
 annual total of water which descends in rain or snow in the United 
 States. The figures for the areas are taken from the census for 1890. 
 The annual depth of rainfall which this gives is 29 inches, or less 
 than that given by the other method. This is to be expected, as the 
 other method gave equal weight to each political division, and these 
 divisions are generally smaller in the regions of greater rainfall. 
 
 To get some conception of this enormous mass of water we may 
 compare it with the contents of the Great Lakes, and an approximate 
 comparison is near enough. Lake Ontario is about 200 miles long 
 and 70 broad, and its average depth is about 40 fathoms, (a fathom is 
 a length of six feet). It, therefore, contains about 636 cubic miles of 
 water. The annual rainfall would fill it two times and leave some- 
 thing over for a third time. Lake Michigan is about 310 by 70 
 miles, and has an average depth of about 50 fathoms, and conse- 
 quently contains about 1,233 cubic miles of- water. The average 
 annual rainfall would fill Lake Michigan and leavet 174 cubic miles 
 over. Four years of rainfall would probably be enough to fill all the 
 Great Lakes. 
 
 The amount of mechanical work which the raising of this involves 
 is enormous, and ordinary conception of it quite inadequate. Some 
 idea of it can be reached as follows : One inch of rain per acre makes 
 22,624 gallons, which equals 226,613 pounds. On a square mile the 
 inch of water would weigh 72,516.4 tons (of 2000 pounds each). A 
 cubic mile of water would be this weight X 5,280 X 12 = 4,593,639, 
 104 tons, or if the average temperature is a little above 39° F., = 
 4,500,000,000 tons. The total weight of our rainfall (excluding 
 
APPENDIX. 125 
 
 Alaska) would be this multiplied by 14.07. This gives the enormous 
 quantity of 6,332,000,000,000 tons. Let us take as a unit of handy 
 measurement the weight of one of the lakes, say Ontario— 636 cubic 
 miles. A cubic mile of water weighs 4,500,000,000 tons. Hence, 
 Ontario weighs 2,862,000,000,000 tons. Our average rainfall, weigh- 
 ing 6,332,000,000,000 tons, la therefore 2.2 Ontarios. The rain de- 
 scends from clouds which average half a mile in height, and in raising 
 the water to this height before falling, nature must perform the work 
 of lifting 3,166,000,000,000 tons one mile per year, or 1.1 Ontarios. 
 This in work per day is nearly 9,000,000,000 tons lifted one mile, and 
 reduces to something like a lift of 100,000 tons per second. A ton 
 lifted one mile per second is 19,200 horsepower. The work done by 
 nature, therefore, in raising the rainfall to the clouds is equivalent to 
 100,000 X 19,200 horse power, or 1,920,000,000 continuous horse 
 power, or the work of 5,000,000,000 horses working ten hours a day 
 — perhaps a thousand times as many horses as there are in the United 
 States. 
 
 Prom Bulletin C, Weather Bureau, United States Department of Agricul- 
 ture. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 AGARICUS campestris, 65. 
 Allium cepa, 75. 
 Allium porrum, 61. 
 
 " schoenoprasum, 51. 
 Anise, 108. 
 
 Anethum graveolens, 109. 
 Apium graveolens, 47. 
 
 " petroselinum, 80. 
 Artichoke, French, 31. 
 " Jerusalem, 32. 
 
 " varieties, 32. 
 
 Artemisia absinthium, 1 12. 
 " dracunculus, 112. 
 Asparagus, officinalis, 32, 33 
 
 " varieties, 33. 
 
 Austral species, 28. 
 
 BALM, 108. 
 Basil, 108. 
 Beans, 34^37. 
 
 " bush, dwarf or snap, 34, 35. 
 '* bush, dwarf Lima, 35, 36. 
 " " " varieties, 35-37. 
 
 " pole, 36. 
 *' " Lima, 36. 
 " " varieties, 37. 
 Beets, 37-39. 
 
 " varieties', 38. 
 Bene, 108. 
 Beta vulgaris, 37. 
 
 " macrorhiza, 38. 
 Borage, 109. 
 Borago officinalis, 109. 
 Boreal species, 28. 
 Borecole or kale, 39, 40. 
 
 " varieties, 40. 
 Brassica oleracea, 51. 
 
 " " botrytis, 46. 
 
 " " caulo-rapa, 60. 
 
 " sabellica, 39. 
 " " variety, Botrytis cau- 
 
 HSora, 40. 
 " " rapa, 105. 
 
 Broccoli, 40. 
 Brussels sprouts, 41. 
 
 PABBAGE, 41-44. 
 ^ " aphis, 44. 
 
 Cabbage borer, 44. 
 
 early, 42, 43. 
 " insects, 44. 
 
 maggot, 44. * 
 
 " late, 43. 
 
 Mamestra, 44. 
 " varieties, 44. 
 Capsicum, 85, 86. 
 Caraway, 109. 
 Carrot, 45. 
 
 " varieties, 46. 
 Carum carui, 109. 
 Cauliflower, 46, 47. 
 
 " varieties, 47. 
 
 Catnip, or Catmint, 109. 
 Celery, 47-49. 
 
 " varieties, 50. 
 Celeriac, 50. 
 
 Chicory, 50. 
 Chives, 51. 
 
 Cichorium endivia, 58. 
 intybus, 50. 
 Clay soils, 8. 
 Climate, 24-26. 
 Cochlearia armoracia, 59. 
 Cold frames, 18. 
 Collards, 51. 
 
 " Georgia, 51. 
 Coriander, '109i 
 
 " sativum, 109, 
 
 Corn salad, -52 
 
 " sweet, 52-54. 
 Cress, fine curled, 54. 
 
 " waiter, 54. 
 Cucumber, 55, 56. 
 
 " varieties, 56. 
 
 Cucumia melo, 67, 
 
 " sativus, 55. 
 Cucurbita citrullus, 70. 
 
 " pepo, 93. 
 
 Cynara scolymus, 31. 
 
 DANDELION, 57. 
 Daucus carota, 45. 
 Dill, 109. 
 Drains^ stone, 10. 
 tile, 10. 
 " wooden, 10. 
 
 CGG^plant, 57. 
 
 *-• Egg plant, varieties, 58. 
 
 Endive, 58. 
 
 " varieties, 59. 
 
 EENNEL, sweet, 109. 
 
 * Foeniculum officinale, 109. 
 
 PEOGRAPHIC distribution of plants 
 ^ and animals, 26-28. 
 Gumbo, 73, 74. 
 
 UARDENLNG off, 15. 
 
 ' * Harlequin Cabbage Bug, 44. 
 
 Helianthus tuberosus, 32. 
 
 Hibiscus esculentum, 73. 
 
 Horehound, 109. 
 
 Hop, 110. 
 
 Horse radish, 59, 60, 
 
 Hotbeds, 13-15. 
 
 ** shades for, 15. 
 
 Humulus lupulus, 110. 
 Hyssop, 110. 
 Hyssopus officinalis, 110. 
 
 IMPORTED cabbage bug, 44. 
 ^ Ipomsea batatus, 90-§3. 
 
 K' 
 
 OHL rabi, 60. 
 
 Kohl rabi, varieties, 61. 
 
 126 
 
 I ACTUCA sativa, 62. 
 *-* Lamb's Lettuce, 52. 
 Lavender, 110. 
 Lavendula vera, 110. 
 Leek, 61, 62. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 127 
 
 Lepidium sativum. 54. 
 Lettuce, 62-'B4. 
 
 cabbage, 62. 
 " V COB, 62. 
 " varieties, 64. 
 Life regions of N. America, 28-30. 
 
 " zone, Arctic or Arctic Alpine, 28, 29. 
 
 " " Austroriparian, 30. 
 
 " " , Canadian, 28, 29. 
 
 " " Carolinian, 29. 
 
 " " JHudsonian, 28, 29. 
 
 " " , Xower Austral, 29. 
 
 " '" Transition, 29. 
 
 " " Upper Austral, 29. 
 Lycopersicum escuientum, 103. - 
 
 MANURE, concentrated, 12, 13. 
 stable, 10, 11. 
 Marjoram, sweet, 110. 
 Marrubium-yulgare, 109. 
 Martynia, 65. 
 
 " proboscidia, 65. 
 
 Melissa officinalis, 108. 
 Melon, musk, 67-69. 
 " water, 70-72. 
 Mentha pulegium. 111. 
 Mushrooms, 65. 
 Musk melon, 67-69. 
 Mustard, 72. 
 
 WASTUETIUM officinale, 54. 
 i^ _ " 73. 
 
 Native cabbage worm, 44. 
 Nepeta cataria, 109. 
 
 OCYMUM basilicum, 108. 
 . Onion, 75-79. 
 Onion, American varieties, 78, 79. 
 " Italian varieties, 79. 
 " sets, 79. 
 Okra, 73, 74. 
 
 " varieties, 74. 
 Origanum marjorana, 110. 
 
 PARSNIP, 81. 
 ' Parsley, 80. 
 Parsley, varieties, 80. 
 Peas, garden, 82-85. 
 
 " varieties, 83, 84. 
 Pennyroyal, 111. 
 Pepper, 85, 86. 
 
 " grass, 54. 
 
 " varieties, 86. 
 Phaseolus, 34. 
 
 " vulgaris, 34. 
 
 Pimpinella anisum, 108. 
 Potato, sweet, 90-93. 
 
 " " varieties, 93. 
 
 white, 87-90. 
 
 " " varieties, 89. 
 
 Preparation and planting, 14-19. 
 Pumpkin, 93, 94. 
 
 DADISH, 94-96. 
 " " varieties, 96. 
 Raphanus sativus, 94. 
 Rheum rhaponticum, 96. 
 
 Red spider, 44. 
 Rhubarb, 96, 97. 
 Rosemary, 111. 
 Rosmarinus officinalis. 111. 
 Rue, 111. 
 
 Rumex scutatus, 98. 
 Ruta bagas, 107. 
 
 " varieties, 107. 
 " graveolens. 111. 
 
 CAGE, Holt's Mammoth, 111. 
 'J Salsify, 97, 98. 
 Salsify, varieties, 98. 
 Salvia officinalis, 111. 
 Sandy soils, 7. 
 Satureia hortensis, 111. 
 " montana, 112. 
 Savory, summer. 111. 
 Seed, 19-23. 
 
 " change of, 21, 22. 
 
 " choice of, 20, 21. 
 
 " depth of covering, 23. 
 
 '' quantity of, 21. 
 
 " soaking, 22, 23. 
 
 " time of planting, 24. 
 Sesamum orientale, 108. 
 Sinapis, 72. 
 Soils, clay, 8. 
 
 " sandy, 7. 
 
 " water-holding capacity of, 9. 
 Solanum melongena, 57. 
 " tuberosum, 87. 
 Sorrel, 98, 99. 
 Spinacea olerac^a, 99. 
 Spinach, 99, 100. 
 
 " New Zealand, 100, 101. 
 " varieties, 100. 
 Squash, 101-103. 
 
 " summer varieties, 103. 
 , " winter " 103. 
 
 Straw mats, 15-18. 
 Sweet and medicinal herbs, 108-112, 
 Sweet potatoes, 90-93. 
 
 TAGETES lucida, 112. 
 ^ Tanacetum vulgare, 112. 
 Tansy, 112. 
 
 Taraxacum dens-leonis, 57. 
 Tarragon, true, 112. 
 Tetragona expansa, 100. 
 Thyme, 112. 
 Thymus vulgaris, 112. 
 Tomato, 103-105. 
 Tragopogon porrifolius, 97. 
 Transplanting, 19. 
 Tropaeolum, 73. 
 Turnips, 105-107. 
 
 " ruta bagas, 107. 
 
 UALERIANELLA olitoria, 52. 
 
 W^ 
 
 ATER cress, 54. 
 
 Wavy-striped flea-beetle, 44. 
 Winter savory, 112. 
 Wormwood, 112. 
 
 yEA saccharatum, 52-54. 
 
 iUM 
 
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