GUIDE TO TAXIDERMY [C. K* cc C. A. REED rUM H CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY LABORATORY OF ORNITHOLOGY LIBRARY Gift of QL GS.RillhT"'"''' "-'""^^ ,.,^y,'.S?.„Jo taxiderm 3 1924 022 540 151 Laboratory of Ornithology 159 Sapsucker Woods Road Cornell University Ithaca, New York 1485 • DATE DUE GAVLORD PRINTED IN USA The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924022540151 Rocky Mountain Sheep GUIDE TO TAXIDERMY BY CHAS. K. REED AND CHESTER A. REED, B. S. Author of "Land Birds," "Water Birds," "Flower Guide," "Nortli American Birds Eggs," Etc. IHastraied by Draivings and Photographs of Mounted Specimens by the Authors and Mr. N. F. Stone. NEW EDTION— Enlarged and Re-written. Twentieth Thousand WoHCESTEE. Mass., CHAS. K. REED, 1914 •.-...vdfi Copyright, 1903 By CHAS. K. REED. Copyright. 1908 ByCHAS. K. REED PREFACE The object of this book is to enable the reader to gain complete mastery of the art of taxidermy. We do not believe in the wanton destruction of birds for ornamental purposes, nor do the laws in most states, if properly enforced, allow of such practices. We do believe, however, that at least one person in every community should possess the knowledge to enable Him to correctly mount speci- mens. Millions of birds are killed yearly in the United States by accidents, such as flying against light- houses, telegraph wires, or buildings, etc. Practi- cally none of these are saved because there is no one at hand who has the requisite knowledge. If only a fraction of one per cent, of all the birds killed accidentally, and those shot by sportsmen and thrown away, could be saved and correctly pre- pared it would be unnecessary to shoot thousands that are now killed every year simply for museum purposes. We trust that this book may be the means of cre- ating a taxidermist or an enthusiast in every sec- tion of the country, and that each one of them will endeavor to persuade sportsmen to save most of the game they kill. You will find that there is 6 Guide to Taxidermy pleasure in doing the work for yourself and profit in doing that for others. In the following pages we give you the results of our thirty-five years' experience in all branches of taxidermy. No trade secrets are held back; everything is laid bare. We have endeavored to omit nothing that would be a help to the student and to avoid the introduction of any hindrances. We have illustrated every point as fully as pos- sible, and are sure that any faithful reader and worker can in a short time do work equal to that of the best. The text, every drawing and every pho- tograph used in this book is new and made express- ly for this work. We wish to give credit to our chief taxidermist, Mr. N. F. Stone, who mounted a large number of the specimens that are pictured; while a young man, he is one of the best that this country has yet produced, a natural-born taxider- mist. We shall be more than pleased if, by our work, others can be produced. Chas. K. & C. A. Reed. Worcester, Massachusetts. May, 1908. Brown Thrasher (On a natural twig for museum exhibition.) TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER 1. —Collecting 19 Kind of Gun to Use Handling a Gun Caring for Specimens in the Field Carrying Game How to Shoot Dogs How to Find Birds When to Find Birds Caution Keep a Record Labelling a Specimen Determination of Sex CHAPTER 2.— Birds 37 Tools Necessary for Skinning Skinning Some Exceptional Cases Skinning Game Birds Mounting a Bird Guide to Taxidermy Material Required Wiring the Legs Wiring the Tail Pinning M'ings Putting Eyes in Birds Finishing the Specimen Making T Perches Spreading a Bird's Wings Long-necked Birds In Fancy Attitudes Mounting Collossal Birds Relaxing Dried Skins Making a Bird Skin Cleaning the Feathers Unusual Forms for Skins Hanging "Dead Game" Birds CHAPTER 3.— Animals 93- Skinning Making the Body Mounting Skinning Large Animals Making the Manikin Exceptional Cases Covering the Manikin ■ Putting on the Skin Myrtle Warblers Sparrow Hawks Guide to Taxidermy 1] JNIaking Animal Skins page CHAPTER 1. — Mounting Heads 121 Skinning Cleaning the Skull Cleaning the Scalp Making the Form Relaxing a Deer Scalp Putting Scalp on Form Finishing Mounting Other Heads Open Mouths Bird Heads CHAPTER 5. — Tanning Skins; Rugwork..139 Preparing a Skin Mounting the Head Stretching Lining CHAPTER 6— Mounting Fish 151 Preserving Skinning Making the Form Putting on the Skin Painting Mounting Large Fish 12 Guide to Taxidermy CHAPTER 7.— Mounting Reptiles 167 Skinning Mounting Another Method CHAPTER 8. — Collecting and Mounting Insects 173 Collecting Killing Insects Mounting Caterpillars and Worms CHAPTER 9. — Collecting and Preparing Eggs 179 Collecting Blowing Displaying CHAPTER 10. — Tools and Materials 185 CHAPTER 11. — Sizes and Colors op Eyes; Wire 213 CHAPTER 12. — Stumps, Rockwork and Foliage 220 CHAPTER 13. — Prices for Mounting Speci-. . MENS 229 CHAPTER 14.— List of N. A. Birds 233 INDEX SOS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Rocky Mountain Sheep Frontispiece Brown Thrashers 7 Sparrow Hawks 10 Red-head Duck (dead game) Well-made Bird Skins 16 Bald Eagle 21 Heath Hen 26 Dovekie 34 Hawk Owl 42 Snowy Owls 48 Glossy Ibis 54 Sanderling 60 Black Tern 60 Screech Owl 68 American Ospreys 74 American Crow (partly albino) 80 Black-backed Gull 80 Mockingbird 86 14 Guide to Taxidermy PAGE Gray Squirrel 94 Flying Squirrels 100 Weasel 106 Raccoon 106 Red Fox 112 Ocelot 112 Black Bear 118 Pointer Dog 118 Albino Deer 124. Buffalo Head 130 Elk Head 130 Mountain Goat Head 134 Canada Lynx Head 134 Mastiir 140 St. Bernard 140 Magpie 144 Red Fox Rug 146 Hanikin for Deer Head 150 Brook Trout (under convex glass) 154 Ruffed Grouse (dead game) 154 Guide to Taxidermy 15 PAGE Caribou Head 158 Piping Plover and Young 162 Snowy Herons l66 Prong-horn Antelope Head 170 Great Horned Owl 1 74, Snowy Owl (under convex glass) 171 Wood Duck 180 Deer Head 186 Sanderling 192 Mallards (dead game) 192 Pileated Woodpeckers 1 96 Canvas-back Duck 202 Ruffed Grouse (convex glass) 208 Diagram of Eyes 212 American Elk > 218 Black-poll Warblers 222 Deer Head (side to) 226 Moose Head 230 Chickadee Chestnut-collared Lockspur Golden-fronted Woodpecker. Gilded Flicker (Some well made skins) _1 Guide to Taxidermy ' 17 IMPORTAINT Read These Fades Before Doind Any Work In the following chapters we give the best meth- ods of skinning and mounting the members of several classes of the animal kingdom. Whatever you are to work on, read the Chapter appertaining to it through before doing any of the work. We ask you to do this because it may cause you to avoid some false move. We have made all instructions as plain as possible, and as nearly as possible in their natural sequence, but the different operations are so closely related to one another that you should know what is coming next before you commence work. If your specimen is to be mounted, fix upon a certain position before you commence and have that position in mind throughout the work. The il- lustrations that we give are natural and artistic ones for the different species and you will do well to select some of these for your first models. Chapter 10 gives the materials and tools that are 18 Guide to Taxidermy often used or needed by taxidermists, where to get them or how to make them. Of course a beginner will need but very few of these, but we have every- thing arranged in alphabetical order so you can find what you want or anything that may be men- tioned in the text. It gives receipts for making so- lutions used by, or useful for, taxidermists. Chapter 11 gives the sizes and colors of eyes for a great many birds and animals so you can, at least determine what size eye you wish for any speci- men. It also has a plate illustrating the different sizes and styles of eyes. A list of the sizes of wire used for many different specimens will guide you as to what you should have on hand for your work. It also gives the prices that are charged by expert and reputable taxidermists for work of all kinds. Guide to Taxidermy 19 CHAPTER I-Collectina All taxidermists are not collectors, indeed, most of those who make a business of it, find little time to do any collecting at all. Yet any work on taxi- dermy would be far from complete did it not in- clude remarks upon the subject of guns, ammuni- tion and the care of specimens in the field. For ordinary collecting in your home neighbor hood dress as inconspicuously as possible; wear your usual street clothes. Do not get a full suit of hunting togs to excite the idle curiosity of everyone you meet. Most of our collecting is done with a pocket gun and the specimens are brought home in the pocket. Many of the birds a taxidermist mounts are those found dead or that have killed themselves accident- ally. The collector, however, might hunt for ages without finding a dead bird. Most of his specimens have to be shot. Bird lime is absolutely of no use and even if it would catch a bird, the specimen would be in no condition to mount. 20 Guide to Taxidermy Nets and snares of all kinds are of little or no use for catching birds, and their use is prohibited by law most everywhere. So the main and practi- cally only reliance of the collector is his gun. Kind of Gun The style and make of gun to use is chiefly a matter of individual taste and pocketbook. A single-barrel, single shot gun costs the least, but you run the risk of losing a rare specimen by not having another shot in reserve in case of a miss. We have often started up rare birds when shooting at common ones, and without a double-barrel or a repeater it would have been impossible to get them. We would advise that anyone get either a double hammerless gun or a repeater ; either of these is ex- cellent and leaves nothing to be desired. Good serviceable guns of either kind can be got for from eighteen to twenty-two dollars. We would recommend that you purchase as good a gun as you can afford. The bore of the gun is also a. matter of your own choice. Either a twelve or sixteen guage are perfect weapons for your pur- pose. If you expect to do a great deal of collect- Bald Eagle 22 Guide to Taxidermy ing away from home, we should advise getting the twelve guage because you can secure ammunition for it anywhere, whereas some dealers do not carry smaller guage shells. The one double-barreled gun will answer for all the collecting the average taxidermist will do, but if you are going to make an extensive scientific collection, it will be far better to also get a small collecting gun. The best that we know of is made by the Steven Arms Co. It has a pistol frame, skeleton stock and either fifteen or eighteen inch barrel. The best gun of this kind we have ever seen or owned is one of this make, 32 calibre, 15 in. barrel, chambered for 32 cal. extra long rim- fire cartridges. The cartridges are bought in thousand lots, unloaded, but of course primed, for considerably less than a cent apiece. We load them with equal bulk of smokeless powder and "dust" shot ; the cartridges are very light and are thrown away after using. We never carry the stock for you can shoot perfectly without it; the gun and twenty-five shells will go in one pocket with no in- convenience whatever. The question of the right sizes of shot to use is one that sportsmen often debate spiritedly upon; Guide to Taxidermy 23 there can be but one answer, — use just as small shot as you can and still be sure of getting your bird. We have done considerable shooting our- selves and have handled thousands of specimens killed by others, so we may presume to be pretty well acquainted with this subject. We always use and recommend the use of factory loaded ammuni- tion. Many gun dealers do not carry in stock, car- tridges loaded with finer than No. 10 shot, so it may be necessary for you to have them ordered or loaded specially for you, which will be done on an order of 500 shells; or you can buy empty shells and load them yourself. Since we always carry our collecting gun with us, we never use smaller shot for the double-barrel than No. 10, but if you have no small arm, you will need a large percentage of your shells loaded with either dust or No. 12. For all small birds up to the size of a j ay, we ad- vise the use of the smallest shot you can get. For larger birds up to a. crow. No. 10 is admir- ably adapted. Crows, hawks, owls, grouse and others of like size are least injured and most cer- tainly obtained with No. 7. Ducks, and in fact nearly all of the largest birds can be secured with No. 4 shot. No 2's are often effective with swans 24 Guide to Taxidermy or geese, but unless you are in a locality where you can reasonably expect to see them, it is useless to carry such shells with you. Of course it goes without saying that any brand of smokeless powder is far superior to black. It shoots stronger, makes much less noise and very little smoke, qualities that would induce anyone to pay the few cents difference in price for a box of shells. Except on rare occasions, a rifle is of little use for hunting birds. Any bird that you could get with the rifle, you could probably get with your shot gun and the chances are usually a hundred to one in favor of the latter, to say nothing of the much better condition in which it leaves specimeits for mounting. Still, we believe that everyone should know how to handle and effectively use a rifle, and for practice or shooting at squirrels in most localities no arm is better than a .22 long, either single shot or repeater, though we much pre- fer the latter. Probably the best rifle for a careful and expert collector is the 25-20 repeater. It is a very powerful small arm, and should not be in the hands of inexperienced persons for it carries a long ways ; it is very effective for large birds and Guide to Taxidermy 23 most any animals. Smokeless powder is even more necessary for rifles than shot guns. It does not readily foul the barrel and where a dozen shots with a .22, using black powder, would foul the barrel so as to impair the shooting, hundreds of them will not appreciably affect it when using smokeless. Handling a Gun A gun in the hands of the careless or ignorant is a very dangerous weapon; in the hands of careful or intelligent persons it is no more dangerous than is a stick. The first instruction to give anyone in regard to any kind of a firearm is, never to point it at anyone under any circumstances, loaded or un- loaded. And bear in mind it is the supposedly un- loaded guns together with a "fool" operator that are the cause of nearly all accidents. One summer, I had need of a rifle and asked my host if he knew where I could get one. Yes, he did ! and immediately went after it. In a few min- utes he was back with a Winchester 25-20. Coming in the door, he dropped the lever just enough to see that the barrel was empty, put the gun to his shoulder, aimed playfully at his wife across the room and pulled the trigger. He had the lever down and half wav back when mv hand caught the Heath Hen Guide to Taxidermy 27 mechanism and stopped him. Just entering the bar- rel from the magazine was a loaded cartridge. In another instant he would have been an unintentional murderer. We do not want to harp too much on the dangers of firearms, because, as we said before, in proper hands they are not dangerous, but we do want everyone to use their best precautions in handling them. When carrying a gun through the streets of a city or town always have it unloaded, and carry it with the muzzle pointing towards the ground. The easiest and most convenient positions is shown in sketch. When you are in the woods any conven- ient method of carrying is permissible, but the muzzle should either point to the sky or the ground. Sketches on this page illustrate some of the least tiring ways of carrying a gun. Caring for Specimens in the Field By this we do not mean the skinning or curing of specimens, but simply the keeping of them in suitable condition for such purpose. We would as soon think of going into the woods or fields without a gun as to go without cotton or paper to wrap our specimens in. On securing any 28 Guide to Taxidermy birdj smooth its plumage and, with a small twig, insert a piece of cotton into the throat. This is to prevent blood or juices from injuring the feath- ers. Also plug up any serious shot wounds from which blood is oozing or apt to come. You can not take too much care in keeping your birds in good condition ; you will get better results and much more pleasure out of well-kept birds. For birds up to the size of a jay, magazine pages make the best wrapping. Roll up a cylinder just a trifle smaller than your specimen, turn one end in and insert your bird head first; then close the other end as shown in sketch opposite. Thus prepared you can put any number of specimens in your game bag or pocket and be sure of their reaching home in fine condition. Carrying Game A leatlier handbag, or a fishing creel, makes the best receptacle for carrying game. It does not al- low them to become flattened and mis-shaped and can without inconvenience be carried from the shoulder by a strap. Killing Wounded Birds Frequently a bird is "winged" or not killed out- right and we wish to put an end to its sufferings Guide to Taxidermy 29 immediately. Birds up to the size of an eagle can be most speedily killed by compressing the lungs with the thumb and fingers ; this is the most humane way and does no injury to the specimen. The method of holding is shown in sketch opposite. Birds of prey can safely be killed in this manner as they are unable to reach your hand with their talins. Large birds are often killed by plunging a sharp knife under the left wing into the heart; if this is done their mouth and throat must be well filled with cotton and the wound plugged also. How to Shoot We take it for granted that everyone knows how to handle a gun, that is, knows how to aim and fire it; still many do not have much success even at sit- ting objects with a shotgun and even less with a rifle, while they never killed a flying bird except by accident. We think that the reason for most misses is lack of control over the nerves. I have seen men aim at a sitting bird, sight along the barrel, hesitate, aim again, etc., until the bird in disgust flew away. Do not aim at the bird until you know that you want it, then raise the gun and the instant the front sight touches it poill the trig- 30 Guide to Taxidermy ger. Nothing is gained by waitings your aim is im- paired and frequently the bird goes. Wing shooting is more difficult and requires a good eye and steady nerves. Here the trouble with most novices is that they cannot control themselves ; as soon as the gun points somewhere near the bird they pull the trigger, or even in some cases close the eyes first. If when you fire, the sight is on the head of your bird or a trifle in front, you will be sure to get it. Some ducks, flying broadside to at full speed require "leading" somewhat, but I doubt if the swiftest duck at fifty yards distance can tra- verse more than three feet before the charge reaches it. Dods Setters, pointers, spaniels and hounds are useful for sportsmen and may be desirable for collectors on some occasions, but few of the latter use them. A collector's "bag" is so varied that a dog is of little use except for retrieving or finding lost birds, and we prefer to pick up our own birds. How to Find Birds This is a knowledge that will require time and constant practice to acquire. Get out of doors nil you can and always pay attention to the animal life about you. Learn the birds by note as well as by sight. Guide to Taxidermy 31 The man who knows birds by both sight and song has a tremendous advantage over him who does not. He can single out the specimens he wants by sound, go to them and get them, while his com- panion simply trusts to luck. Make it your busi- ness to look up any "new" notes and find out what they are. Aside from advantages in collecting, the man who knows the songs and calls of birds, who can recognize their flight, as well as know their plum- age and habits, can get 1000 per cent, more enjoy- ment out of a walk in the woods than the one who notices nothing unless it is called to his attention. When to Find Birds Bj' far the best season to see birds and learn them is in the Spring. Tliey are in full plumage and full song, making it eas)' to find them and also to learn how they look. The scientific collector aims to get at least the male, female and young of the year. Young males are usually similar to the female in coloration and it often takes several years to attain their perfect plumage. No taxider- mist, collector or bird student should be without a field glass to distinguish species and to enable him to secure the best; the one.", that are in the most perfect plumage. ->^<^i 32 Guide to Taxidermy You will find that birds are much more active a few hours after sunrise than they are during the day. Consequently early morning is the best time to pursue your quest, whatever your motive. Caution By caution we mean walking carefully through woods and field, with no unnecessary noise. Let the birds make the noise for you to hear; do not alarm them. We do not, by any means, mean for you to adopt Indian or any other ridiculous tactics, but simply do not "lumber" along, whistling, the way we have seen scores do. Keep A Record Every collector, whatever the subject, should keep a record of all his finds. These should be kept in a good substantial notebook, numbering the first specimen you get No. 1, and so on consecu- tively; whether your specimen be bird, mammal or fish makes no difference, give it its consecu- tive number. Your specimen may be mounted, kept in a skin or traded, but you have its serial number and can at any time find its data in the proper place in your notebook. After the number, give the place taken and the date, dimensions of the Guide to Taxidermy specimen, etc., after having given the dates of all the specimens of a day's collecting, you can add any items of interest connected with the specimens or others seen, that you care to. Your book will thus be very useful and valuable to yourself and may be useful to others in the future. It will recall to your mind, in after years, many interesting facts that you have forgotten. Labelling sl Specimen Every scientific skin or mounted specimen should have its label attached ; otherwise it is worthless as such. This label should not, as is too often the case, simply give the birds or animal's name; in fact, in most cases, that is the least important thing on a label. It should have its consecutive number to correspond to your note book ; its place of cap- ture and date (these two are very important for a bird's plumage varies n great deal with the season of the year and also according to the locality in which it is taken. You or some one else may want to study the plumage of a certain bird and, unless you know the exact place and date the specimen was taken, it is worthless for study.) It should also give the length, expanse and length of wing of the specimen if it is a bird. An example of a cor- rect label is given in sketch. ^>;.^^^°^.i Dovekie Guide to Taxidermy 35 The Sexes of Birds Every label should^ without fail, have the sex of the specimen marked upon it. Scientists of all nations are agreed upon the signs that designate sexes. These are <^ for male, and ? for female, these being the symbols respectively of Mars and Venus. Young birds or animals are designated by yg. following the symbol, or by juv., from the Latin, juvenus, meaning young; this latter is the better form. The sex of mammals is never in doubt, while that of birds often is and should be accurately deter- mined. The male and female of many species diiFer greatly in plumage, but in such cases the young birds of either sex very strongly resemble the female and an examination is necessary to de- termine the sex. The distinguishing masculine organs are the testicles, while those of the female are the ovaries. Both these organs lay in approxi- mately the same positions, namely in the belly near the small of the back. These organs vary greatly in size at different seasons of the year, during the breeding season being large and readily recognized while at other times they may be very small, some- times requiring a magnifying glass to distinguish them. 36 Guide to Taxidermy -< To find these organs, cut through the belly walls with your scissors, from the anus diagonally to the base of the lower rib on the right side. With your scapel push the intestines aside and you can see the sexual organs resting on the front of the kidneys. The testicles are a pair of nearly spherical whitish bodies, side by side; the ovaries are a flat, whitish mass of irregular shape, readily recognized when producing eggs, but at other seasons of a fine gran- ular appearance. Both the ovaries and testes are connected with a fine whitish thread to the lower bowel. This will prevent your mistaking the whitish caps of the kidneys, which are present in both sexes, for the testes of the male. Guide to Taxidermy 37 CHAP. 2-Mountina Birds We will suppose that you have your specimen be- foi-e you, and for practice we recommend that you use Blue Jays, English Sparrows or Crows, which- ever you can most conveniently obtain. Tools or Material Necessary You require very few instruments while learning the art of taxidermy; if, after becoming proficient j'ou wish to continue in the business professionally, 3''ou can secure a more expensive outfit. At the start you need: 1. A scalpel or very sharp knife. This is a knife such as surgeons use in operations ; you can procure one from any dealer in taxidermist's supplies. 2. A pair of strong, sharp-pointed scissors ; surgical ones are the best, although any will answer. For large birds and animals you will also need a pair of bone shears, but you can as well do without these until you become more acquainted with the work. Guide to Taxidermy 3. Forceps or Tweezers. — These are very neces- sary especially in picking over and arranging the feathers when mounting your bird. Those hav- ing sharp points are the best for the work; you can procure them from your dealer in supplies or at hardware stores. 4. Cotton; the ordinary cotton batting that you can purchase at any drygoods store. 5. Sawdust or corn meal; fine hardwood saw- dust that you can procure at a cabinet-makers is by far the best, although fine soft-wood sawdust will answer. Failing to get either of these, 3'ou can use un-bolted corn meal. Skinning First remove the cotton, which you placed in the bird's mouth when you procured it, and replace it with a fresh piece. Never attempt to skin a bird unless you have cotton in its throat for the blood or juices will be certain to soil the feathers; to be sure, blood stains can be removed as we shall ex- plain later, but it is far better to avoid them and you will get better results in your finished work. Except in tropical countries, a bird will skin the best, four or more hours after its death. If it is attempted sooner, the plumage will be very apt to Guide to Taxidermy 39 be soiled for the blood will not have sufficiently coagulated so as not to run freely. You will find that a bird killed one day and skinned the nexj will make the most satisfactory subject to work upon. Before commencing to skin your specimen, it is best to loosen the rigidness of the wings by bend- ing them back so that the shoulders will touch be- hind the backj bending them carefullj' so as not to break the bones ; should these bones be broken, it will not interfere with the successful skinning or rnounting of the specimen, but a good taxidermist takes pride in not mutilating his specimens. Place a clean piece of paper upon your work bench or table and lay your bird upon it with the head to your left and belly upward. With the point of the scalpel and your fingers, part the feathers on the breast and you will find that a space, nearly devoid of feathers extends from the breast bone to the anus. Make a clean cut with your scalpel down the center of this bare space (from a point slightly below the breast bone to the vent), taking care to just cut through the skin and as little as possible into the flesh; practice will enable you to complete the operation of skinning •Wve-Oy 40 Guide to Taxidermy without cutting into the flesh at all except to dis- joint legs, tail and wings. Grasp the edge of the severed skin on the left side of the breast, with thumb and fore-finger nails (or the tweezers if you prefer) and gradually turn it back, pusliing the flesh away from the skin with the blade of the scalpel, which, of course, is always held in the right hand. (We give these instructions for right-handed persons and many of the opera- tions would have to be reversed for a "left- hander.") The skin on most of our birds separates very easily from the flesh and does not require any cut- ting; exceptions to this are the ducks and others ov the diving-birds, on which the skin and flesh have to be se])arated almost entirely by cutting. (It is well to avoid birds of this nature until you are quite proficient with other birds). It must be borne in mind that from the time you make your first cut, all exposed surfaces either of skin or flesh must be kept sprinkled with the saw- dust or meal. This will absorb any moisture or juices and keep the feathers clean. You will ha^e separated the skin and flesh on vour bird for but a short distance before vou reach Guide to Taxidermy 41 the junction of the leg with the body, (irasp the knee-j oint with a finger and thumb of the left, hand upon either side^ and with the right push the leg up through the skin so that the entire knee-joint will be visible and the skin free all about it. Sever the leg at this joint with the scissors. You now skin this leg down nearly to the ankle j oint, or as far as the flesh extends; remove all the flesh from the leg- bone by cutting the tendons near the ankle and stripping off" the flesh. Now go through preciseh' the same operation on the opposite side of the bird, and you will find that it will greatly facilitate your work if the bird's head is towards you during this operation. Having cleaned both leg-bones, thrust them both back into the skin in their normal position. Holding the body of the bird by the thighs, separate, with the fingers, the skin from the flesh towards its back and tail until your fingers meet on both sides under the small of his back. You can now sever the tail, with the scissors, at its junction with the body taking care not to cut off" the ends of the quills as this would loosen the feathers and let them fall out. Hawk Owl Guide to Taxidermy 4,3 Grasp the body by its hips, with the right hand and, with the left, separate the skin from the body, working towards the shoulders until you reach the wing joints. You can easily work your fingers around these joints until they meet; then introduce one point of the scissors and sever the bone near the body. Continue skinning towards the head, turning the skin inside out the same as you would in taking off a kid glove. When you reach the base of the skull, work the skin over carefully with the thumb nails, pushing first on one side then the other as well as top and bottom. Never pull on the skin in any of the operations but, with the fingers or nails push it apart from the flesh. Immediately upon getting the skin turned over the largest part of the head you will come upon the ears, one on each side and with the skin tucked into a small opening in the skull. On most all birds up to the size of a crow you can readily pull this skin out of the ear with the thumb and fore-finger; some of the hawks, owls, ducks, etc., require that the skin should be cut as close to the skull as is practicable. On turning the skin a trifle more over the skull 44 Guide to Taxidermy j'ou will come to the eyes; this is one of the most delicate operations for the beginner. Work the skin down as far as possible on top of the skull^ between the eyes and on the sides of the head ; then with the left hand draw the skin taut and, with the scapel, sever the thin membrane in the corner of the eye. A little practice will enable you to do this readily without danger of cutting the eye-lid, which shows fainthr through the membrane as a whitish line. You continue skinning over the skull down to the very base of the bill. With the scalpel, or in the case of large birds a stronger skinning or hunting knife, slice off the back of the skull, exposing the brains. In doing this have the bird's skull resting on the bench and cut through the pony part down to the windpipe; you can then lift the head and continue cutting along under the jaws towards the tip of the bill, this releasing the tongue which will remain attached to the neck. The body is now entirely free from the skin and should be laid to one side. Run the point of the scalpel around the eye, inside the socket, and you will loosen all the tissues that hold it in place ; you can then easily scoop it out with the Guide to Taxidermy 45 scalpel, taking care not to pierce it as the fluid con- tained therein will surely soil the bird if you do. Insert one of your scissor points on the side of the under j aw, at a point about under the eye, and force it up until it touches the top of the skull, then make a clean cut on that side of the skull; do the same on the other side ; then a final cut across the skull (inside) from eye to eye will release all the ; \ matter contained therein and the brain will come out whole. Now, with the right hand, hold the skin firmly / by the wing-bone while, with the fingers of the left '' hand, you force the skin back on the wing until the flesh and muscles of the fore-wing are exposed. Clean these bones with the scalpel, removing every particle of meat; also clean off any particles of flesh that may have been left on any part of the skin. Turn the legs inside out again and you have your specimen skinned and all ready to be poisoned. Arsenic used in the form of a soft soap, as de- scribed in Chapter 10 is the best material known for the preservation of a bird's skin. Of course arsenic in the hands of careless or very ignorant 46 Guide to Taxidermy persons is dangerous, but it may safely be handled by any person of ordinary intelligence. Applj' the soap thoroughly to the skin with a stiff, round brush, taking special pains to well cover the skull, root of the tail, and leg and wing bones ; next spriiigle the skin, where soaped, with sawdust or meal so you can handle it and not get the soap on the feathers. Fill the cavity of the skull full of cotton and with the tweezers draw it out into the eye-sockets. Pull the legs and wings back into their normal position from the outside and you have left only the head to turn back. This is done by working carefully from the inside with the thumbs and fingers of both hands ; having gotten the skin over the largest part of the skull you can readily work VQ.OiA>jtoVe^ov'&OVVe()i, 't the remainder of the way from the outside. . them as tightly as if glued, and has to be cut away c/vct. from nearly the whole body; any attempt to push the flesh away from the skin only results in shov- ing your fingers through the skin, which is inelastic and apparently brittle. Again these birds are al- ways fat and greasy. After skinning you have to "clip" the hide, that is cut off the fat that adheres Guide to Taxidermy 51 to its whole surface. This is a rather tedious pro- cess but it has to be done, otherwise in time, the fat would "stew" through the breast and turn the feathers a sickly, greasy yellow. Eagles, swans, loons, geese and large herons have long wing bones and it is very difficult to thoroughly clean them from the inside of the skin. Such wings can best be cleaned by opening them on the outside ; hold back the feathers so as not to cut any off and make a clean cut through the bare tract. You can then clean out all the flesh, give the skin a good coat of arsenic and sew the cut up. This is always advisable on large birds as it en- ables you to thoroughly poison just that portion of the bird that is most frequently attacked by insect pests. On large herons and cranes, it is well to make a cut in the sole of the foot, and by inserting an awl point under the tendons you can draw them out of the leg, thus leaving a place for the leg wire and avoiding danger of splitting the tarsal envelope when you wire the leg. IT \ 52 Guide to Taxidermy Skinnind Game Birds Grouse, ducks or shore birds can be skinned so as also to save the flesh for eating. A sportsman can thus have his dinner and also have the specimen mounted. Clean the tools to be used, well, and use corn meal in place of sawdust. We usually skin up to the neck with meal then cut the body off and finish skinning with sawdust. The meal will readily wash from the flesh, whereas the sawdust sticks \'ery tightly, ^^'e ha^e eaten all kinds of game and believe that the taste of a bird is rather improved than impaired bj' skinning. Mounting a Bird Before you commence to mount a bird, conceive in your own mind the exact position that j'ou wish to reproduce, basing your position from memory of that particular bird as you saw it in life, or upon some good picture of that or a similar bird. Remember that no live bird is so "ugly" but that he has his graceful lines. All birds whatever their position should have their plumage smooth. Though a bird may be preening itself, with every Guide to Taxidermy 53 feather standing upon end, they will stand on end smoothly. Tools and Materials Required 1 . Wire cutters ; a pair of parallel pliers with cutter attached on the side makes the best "all around" tool of this kind that can be had. You can use them for cutters, pinchers and in place of a leg drill for forcing the wire through the legs of large birds ; a hole through the center of the pliers allows the wire to pass between the handles so you can get a perfect grip upon it. 2. Wire — For practice we should recommend the getting of half a pound each of Nos. 20, 18 and 16 annealed iron wire. These will answer for anything up to jays and kingfishers. You can get wire of dealers in taxidermists' supplies or at hard- ware stores. Following these instructions for mount- ing birds we give a table of the size wire required for birds of various kinds, from which you can decide just what you want for anything. 8. An eight or ten-inch file with which to point your wires. •i. Tweezers, needles, and cotton as before. 5. A small quantity of excelsior or tow, which can be procured from your dealer or at a mattress White-faced Glossy Ibis Guide to Taxidermy 55 shop, and often at a grocery or furniture store. 6. A ball of cotton twine and a cop ; the latter is composed of fine soft cotton thread such as is used in a cotton mill. Your supply dealer can fur- nish them. 7- An awl for boring holes in the perches for the leg wires to go through. Mounting We will suppose that you have your specimen be- fore you. Skin it, jDoison the skin, tlirn it back and smooth the feathers as explained in the instructions for skinning, and remove every vestige of blood or stain from the feathers by means of the water, sawdust and plaster treatment given in the process for making a bird skin. You will want four wires nine or ten inches in length, and if your specimen is a jaj^, number 18 will be the correct size. Sharpen one of these wires on both ends and the others on one only. Take a small wad of excelsior or tow, compress it in the hands to about the size of the original body and wind it firmly with the cotton twine, turn- ing the body and shaping it with the hands as you wind. Don't be afraid of using the string; make the body fairly firm; and above all do not get it larger than the original. Having gotten it as near 56 Guide to Taxidermy the shape of the body you removed as you can, try it in roui bird and draw the skin over it on the breast; if the edges meet readily, the body is all right; if not, do not use it, — make another. The double-pointed wire is to be inserted in the middle of the larger end of the body and pushed clear through bej'ond the small end, turned over into a hook and drawn back, thus clinching the wire firm- ly in the body and leaving a section protruding from the large end for the neck of the bird. In the case of large birds it is well to use a longer wire and make a hook long enough so you can draw it back clear through the body and make a second clinch. Wind a narrow strip of cotton around the neck wire forming it with the fingers so it will be no larger or no longer than the neck that you removed ; then wind it smoothly down with the cops. Now holding your bird up by the beak, insert the end of the neck wire through the opening in the belly of your specimen and insinuate it up until the point of the wire reaches the skull. The wire should enter the skull from between the lower jaws; by twisting it between the thumb and fingers and pushing at the same time, it is forced through the cotton and finallj^ through the top of the skull at a point between the eyes and just back of tlic upper beak. Push the wire up through the Guide to Taxidermy 57 skull until the cotton wound part reaches the skull. The body will now perfectly fit in that of the skin and the neck will be about the proper length. Wiring the Le^s Insert the pointed end of one of your wires in the middle of the sole of one foot; by twisting it between the thumb and fingers you can readily force it up to the second joint, which corresponds to our ankle. The wire should pass through the bacK part of the leg under the skin. When you have reached the ankle joint, bend the joint forward so the tar- sus and tibia will be in a straight line and hold it there with the left hand, while with the right you bore the wire up past the joint. This is easily done usuallj^ the first attempt. Holding the skin away from the body, push the leg bone through its opening until you have it turned completely inside out, the same as when you first skinned it; now force the wire up until it ex- tends perhaps a half-inch beyond the end of the leg bone ; secure the bones to the wire by winding a small piece of cotton about both, shaping it so as \N\V\YVCV 58 Guide to Taxidermy O^ a. ,ilso to take the place of the muscles that you re- moved from the leg. The position in which the leg wires are anchored to the body varies considerably with the position of the bird, but for a specimen in an ordinary perching attitude, you should thrust the wire through the body at a point about midway and a lit- tle nearer the breast than the back, hook the pro- truding end of this wire and clinch the same as you did the neck wire. Both legs are of cuurse wired precisely alike. Wiring the Tail During the process of wiring both the legs and the tail, the specimen la^'s upon its back upon your bench. The fourth wire is pushed through the roots of tlie tail from outside, enters the body in center of the small end and passes out tlirough the breast where it is turned and clinched; the end pro- truding beyond the tail is now turned sharply at right angles to one side and then doubled back upon itself, from a point slightly outside the outer tail feathers; it thus forms a platform to hold the bird's tail in anj' position desired while drying. Guide to Taxidermy 59 The legs which are now sticking straight out, one on either side of the body, are bent sharply upward where the wires enter the body, until they become parallel. Draw the edges of the breast cut together and sew it with two stitches (for birds of the size of a jay; larger ones should have more), each stitch be- ing separate and tied of itself. Bend the legs sharply forward at the heel joint so the feet will be under the breast and the bird balanced in a perching position. Your specimen is now ready to place upon its stand, and we advise, especially at first, that you mount all your birds on T perches. Bore two holes in the cross piece about an inch and a quarter apart (for a jay), using your smallest awl. Set your bird on the stand by putting one leg wire through each hole and drawing the bird down until the sole rests on the stand. The bird is now ready to be bent into a life-like posi- tion. Of course its wings are not fastened yet and are dangling about, but body, neck and legs are bent in the proper places before the wings are pinned into position. Sketches on this page give a number of positions for the jay with the correct placing of the wires, bending of the neck and legs and tilting the tail for each position. Select the SevowQ w)p. Sanderling Black Terns Guide to Taxidermy 61 position you want your bird to occupy before you commence to mount it and tlien sticlc to it. Pinning Win^s Into Position Having gotten your specimen into the desired position, you have now to pin the wings in place. Cut four pieces of your No. 20 wire about two inches in length and sharpen one end of each (if you do any number of birds you will find that taxi- dermists' pins for large birds and insect pins for birds up to the size "f a jay, will be more con- venient. Your dealer can furnish both of these. The large pins come only in one size while j^ou will want Nos. S and 6 of the insect pins). It makes no difference which wing is put in posi- tion- first, only you will find that it will facilitate matters if, when putting up the right wing, the bird is headed away from you, while in pinning the left wing he should be head on. First spread the wing; then fold it seeing that the feathers properly overlap. Lift the scapulars or those back feathers that cover the bend of the wing when it is folded, holding them well up on the back while you put the wing against the side of the 62 Guide to Taxidermy body^ pinning it through the wrist joint (the bend in the wing). Pull the wing slightly out on the wire ; do not leave it j ammed hard down against the body. Place the tip of the wing on the back or at the side, as your position may call for, and support it there by a wire pushed into the flank of the body, the outer featliers of the wing resting upon this. AA'ith your tweezers carefully pick all the feath- ers into position. The feathers should lie smoothly on all parts of the bird, with no open spaces any- where, especially in front of the bend of the wing. The}' should lay smoothly and satisfactorily before the bird is wound ; feathers that are out of place can be wound down so that they will look all right but they are apt to "hump" up after the windings are taken off. The only correct way is to have them just right before winding at all. The winding is a delicate operation and is per- formed with the soft thread on your cops. The cop shoudl be suspended from the ceiling or some point above your work by means of a wire pushed through the small paper cylinder that protrudes from its large end, and then tent in the form of a hook with which to suspend it. Be careful to get Guide to Taxidermy 63 the right thread in starting it oif the cop, and it will all run off easily without snarling. The feathers are already in place as you want them; the thread is wound on to keep them there, for as they dry some of them might rise up. The thread must not be pulled anywhere but simply laid carefully on. Wind the back first, passing the thread from one wing wire to the other, back and forth and across until j'ou have all the feathers caught down; then wind completely around and around the bird, each thread catching a different place on the bird's breast or underparts; a few turns of the thread around the head and neck (very earefullj' made) will complete the task of winding. If the back of the head or the chin of the bird is not filled out sufficiently, this can readily be reme- died by inserting small pieces of cotton through the mouth or eyelids, as may be most convenient, using a short piece of wire for this purpose. Steady the bird by the bill and carefully pull the cotton out of the head, through the eyes, just sufficiently to makn the lids rounded in a natural position. The eyes are not put in until the bird is thoroughly dry. To keep the tail spread evenly as desired, bend a 64 Guide to Taxidermy ftv>o^V\ex' vwe'^Vvow. fine wire as shown in sketch opposite, spread it open in the middle to allow it to slip on the tail; about midway on the tail pinch it together with the fingers and it will keep the feathers just where you want them during the process of drying. Art in Mounting a Bird When mounting a specimen, up to the point of bending it into position, your work is largely or wholly mechanical; but from this point until the bird is completed and ready for exhibition your artistic sense will be called upon. No one will get a perfect bird upon his first attempt unless he be a natural-born taxidermist or artist, and such are very few and far between. But anyone, with continued practice can mount a satisfactory specimen. In this work as well as in any other vocation, "practice makes perfect" so do not be discouraged if your first attempt does not meet your expectations ; you have the principle, all you need is the practice. Drying The wires and windings are all left on your bird until it is thoroughly dry, which, if placed in a room of ordinary temperature, should take four or five days. When a bird is dry can be judged by the absolute rigidity of the toes and the firmness of Guide to Taxidermy 65 the wings. After telling how to put the eyes in your specimen, how to properly finish it and how to make the stands to set it on, we will explain a number of unusual points and methods necessary in the mounting of various other kinds of birds. Putting Eyes in Birds As we have previously said, the eyes are not put in a bird until it has dried. This is because the act of doing so is almost certain to disarrange the plumage. If the eyelids are left round, the eyes can be put in a position very easily and nicely for the head skin is dry and will stand handling. With your forceps, carefully thrust back into the skull the cotton that is now fiilling the eye hole. Insert a small piece of wet cotton in each cavity and let your specimen stand for about a half hour. This wet cotton is then removed and you will find that the lids are softened so you can vary their shape at will. The eyes that you want for a jay are No. 6 brown. It is well to have a small supply of eyes on hand such as you may want for specimens you are apt to get. The majority of birds have brown eyes, but of course that is one of the things that is \i, long, sharp on one end, and one piece about 1 8 in. long, sharp on one end and rounded on the other, this last one being for the tail. Wire the fore legs first, running the wire through the sole of the foot, up through the back of the leg under the skin until Flying Squirrels (The upper squirrel suspended by a wire fom tlie stump) Guide to Taxidermy U)l it appears inside. Turn the leg inside out down to the wrist joint and wind about the bone and wire with tow, winding it firmly with cops to conform with his natural leg; this should be wound way to the end of the bone so as to complete the leg to its junction with the body. Insert the point of the wire at the spot corresponding to the shoulder and push it through the body, pulling the leg down on the wire sufficiently to allow the latter to extend through about three inches on the opposite side. Turn the wire long enough to draw back through the body and clinch again. Wire the hind legs in precisely the same way, winding them to their proper shape and clinching the wire through the body twice. Dip the rounded end of the tail wire into your arsenical soap can ; insert this and into the opening cf the tail and you will find it will read- ily push the whole length; if it sticks at any point, a little judicious twisting of the wire, while holding the skin of the tail firmly at the obstruction, will easily force it through. When the rounded end brings up against the tip of the tail, twist it as though you were using an awl, and you can bore right through. Push the ,^\W 102 Guide to Taxidermy wire through sufficient!}' far to enable you to stick the pointed end in its proper place in the end of the body ; push the wire back through the body so the end will appear on the breast ; make a long turn and draw it back, clinching a second time where the point appears again (this should be about on the rump). Your specimen is now all wired, but the legs are sticking straight from the body. Bend them to cor- respond to the position you have selected for your animal, and we should advise for your first attempts that you take some of the illustrations that we show, for models, for you can readily see just how to do your work to accomplish a certain result. If your squirrel is to be sitting up, see to it that he sits up- on his heels. Nothing looks so disgusting or un- natural as to have a squirrel sitting practically up- on its tail with his legs sprawled out in front, yet this is the way that, even now, the majority of pro- fessional taxidermists do their work. We want you to aim to do perfect work; to imitate nature. Do not let the dollar behind your work look so large that you can see nothing else; this is a common mistake with taxidermists. Guide to Taxidermy 103 A wisp of tow around the junction of each leg with the body will fill up the slight hollow that is usually left there. You can now sew the opening cut together^ sewing continuously from one end to the other, always entering the needle from the skin side. Instead of putting a knot in the end of the thread it is better to tie the first stitch, while the last one is fastened by taking several half-stitches about the last stitch. Your specimen is now ready to place upon its per- manent stand. No neater or more appropriate, stand can be made for squirrels than natural stumps fastened on a sanded stand for the table or on a shield to hang on the wall. See that the eyelids of your specimen are in their proper place and, if necessary, pin them there. For the first three or four days, while your squirrel is drying, it will be well to pinch the ears into shape so they will dry without any shriveling. Larger animals always have the ears skinned and tin inserted, but those of squirrels and other small rodents dry best with nothing in them. 104 Guide to Taxidermy 'Rtt^&(jwiVif(fey's: Be sure that the hair all lies smoothly. The body of your animal is hard enough to withstand any shrinkage of the skin, yet it can be pinched with the fingers to accentuate any curves desired; by clever manipulation, very natural specimens can be made. If you are to have a nut in the specimen's paws, put it in before drying, cutting the wires off just short enough to insert in holes bored in each side of the nut. Many taxidermists sew up the mouths of small animals from the inside as soon as they are skinned. This answers very well for commercial taxidermy, but the results cannot compare to those obtained by pinning the lips to the plaster form. Squirrels, especially, always show their front teeth and should, also, when they are mounted. Several times a day, for three or four days, while the squir- rel is drying you should run the hand down the tail, the wrong way of the fur; this will keep it standing on end and give the tail the fluffy appearance of life. On page 91 is a well mounted squirrel, in a correct position, as he sits on a log eating » nut. Guide to Taxidermy 105 Lar^e Mammals The following instructions apply for /inimals from the size of a fox, up; and for x ery short- haired smaller animals. A fox or long-haired dog can be mounted by either method, commercial taxi- dermists usually using the preceding, while museum taxidermists, having more time at their command, use the follwoing which unquestionably is the best. Skinning The opening cut is made from between the fore legs to the anus ; another cut across the breast down the inside of each fore leg to the ankle joint; a third cut is made across the abdomen and down the inside of each hind leg. The skinning is then pro- ceeded with as before, but the legs are skinned way down to the last joint and the bones dislocated and taken out. If the tail can be pulled out as described in the foregoing instructions, do so, but most ani- mals that are mounted in this way require that the tail be split the whole length on the underside be- fore it can be skinned. The ears should also be skinned, out, that is, the skin on the back of the ear sJiould be separated 0\pamtt(^ tuia To f feja 'S^rS^H^HSE-ZJSS^ Weasel (Winter Fur) Raccoon (Cork-bark Stump) Guide to Taxidermy 107 from the cartilage. This is done from the inside of the skin, turning the ear inside out, and pushing the skin away from the cartilage with the nails or han- dle of the scalpel. They usually skin quite easily and seldom require cutting with a knife. The skin is now cured with arsenical soap if you are going to mount it immediately, or put into the salt bath as described in Chapter 10 if you are to keep it a number of days before mounting. The whole skin of any animal may be salted as de- scribed for deer scalps on page 127, and will then keep indefinitely and be ready for mounting at any time upon soaking the skin in water. Of course, you will see the necessity of taking a number of meas- urements ; the more the better. You want (a) the entire length of the animal; (b) from nose to back of skull; (c) from back of skull to shoulder joint; (d) from shoulder to hip joints; (e) from shoulder to root of tail; (f) width of body at shoulders; (g) width at hips; (h) girth back of fore legs; (i) girth in front of hind legs; (j) girth of neck back of ears; (k) at base; (l) height of animal at fore shoulder; (m) height at hind shoulder or hip. With these measurements you cannot go far 0^ O.V> £^V\'\W»£N.\. 108 Guide to Taxidekaiy astray as to the size of the body, but you still need a drawing, even a crude one, showing the location of prominent muscles, ribs or hollows. Disjoint the two forward legs at the shoulder joint and the hind ones at the hip joint. The flesh and muscles are all to be cleaned from these, using the scissors or scalpel as may be the most conven- ient. They must then be thoroughly poisoned with the soap, and set aside until we have the frame ready to put them on. Making the Framework for a Manikin We will now confine our instructions to the mounting of a pointer dog, the different steps of which are clearly shown in sketches. All other animals are modeled in the same manner, the only difference being in the size and shape of the body and size of rods or wires. Very large animals such as from a horse to an elephant have a hollow frame- work of wood in place of using so much excelsior. Otherwise they are modeled the same. You will want six three-sixteenth inch rods and their length will depend on whether you prefer to have them threaded for nuts or attach them to the frame with staples. A wire of this size can be at- Guide to Taxidermy 109 tached in either way, wliile any of the larger rods, l-'i inch ujj should be threaded. The sketch on this page shows the method of attaching the wire either wa\-. ^yv usually use staples on animals of this size so will make the following directions to con- form. You will want your rods each about 36 inches in length. Make a centerboard of inch stock, the size and t:„ , « shape to correspond to the outline of your speci- men's body. Nail blocks of wood about two inches thick on each side of the centerboard at points to correspond to the joints of the shoulder and hips. Fasten the wire to the dog's skull, as with a squir- rel, and fix it firmly with ,\ dab of plaster inside the skull, covering the wire. Fasten it to the cen- terboard by driving staples around the bent wire, being sure that the distance from the shoulder joint to the base of the skull corresponds to your meas- urements. Wire each leg bone to its rod and bend to the shape to correspond to that of your finished specimen, the wire passing up along the back of the bones. Bend a loop in the end that projects be- yond the upper end of the bone and fasten with Vo'intev Aoc^. CiOitM as if it was not going to be covered. Frequently time, plaster and weight can be saved by not cover- ing all of the excelsior; especially is this true when mounting long-haired large animals. The mounting of a short-haired dog is one of the most 114 Guide to Taxidermy VVOVAvAft^A VVOA. difficult works of taxidermy and we would strongly advise against your undertaking it until you have had your practice on smaller animals by the pre- vious method, and also on shaggy ones by this method. Do not "tackle" the most difficult job first, for unless you are a wonder, failure will be very disheartening; the more so on account of the time consumed. We have outlined the steps as fully as possible, but taxidermy is an art and art can be developed by nothing except practice. Putting on the Skin Your manikin is now completed with all the mus- cles showing, and finished down to the last joint on all the legs, which of course, must be sufficiently elevated from the base to allow the feet to be placed under them. The skin should be thoroughly relaxed; if you ' have not allowed it to dry up, a good coating of ar- senical soap will put it into good condition. If dried, soak the skin in water as described for deer scalps under "mounting heads." Short-haired dogs or members of the deer family do not require that the hair should be dried out before putting the skin on the manikin, but if your specimen has long hair, like a shepherd or Newfoundland dog, bear, etc., it will be necessary to thoroughly dry the hair or fur; Guide to Taxidermy 115 be sure and get all the sawdust out of the hair be- fore you put it on the manikin, otherwise you will find sawdust sifting out of your specimen for years after. You must now cut a thin piece of sheet lead to conform to the shape of each ear, cutting it, of course, a trifle smaller as it is to go inside. Place these in position before putting the skin on the sub- ject. We use sheet lead for animals having large, short-haired, flexible ears rather than tin such as we use on deer and moose. While not as stiif as tin, it can be bent to the proper shape much more readily. Place the skin in position on the form. The backs of all the feet should be cut with the scissors so as to allow them to fit about the wire. Fill the ankle joints with clay (mixed as per instructions in Chap. 10) so they will make good connections with the lower ends of the legs on the manikin. You now have a good, long, tedious task before you, — that of sewing up the cuts on the legs and belly. For the pointer dog, black linen thread used double and thoroughly waxed, will be best. Larger animals often need strong hemp twine for this purpose. Start at the bottom of one of the legs, using a 116 Guide to Taxidermy three-cornered straight surgical needle. Tie the first stitch, then continue up until you reach the junction of the leg with the body, always, on each edge of the cut, pushing the needle through from the skin side; this will dtaw the stitches down into the hair so as to be invisible. You will probably have to renew the thread one or more times on each leg ; always tie your last stitch firmly, and then tie the first stitch of the new thread. The skin under the shoulder and hip joints will be loose and must be tucked up in under as in life and pinned there. You will now start sewing at the breast and continue along the cut to the tip of the tail. If your meas- urements are correctly taken and followed in mak- ing the manikin, the skin will fit perfectly every- where. If your specimen were any horned animal, you would have had to also make a cut down the back of the neck in order to get the skin off over the horns ; in the case of a moose or elk it would also be necessary to continue this cut down over the back side of the fore shoulder to meet the cut on the breast. Thus you will see that a horned animal re- quires yards more sewing to get the skin on the manikin, than does the pointer that we illustrate. Guide to Taxidermy 117 Finish up the head by taking the nostrils and lips into place and pinning them; make the eyelids cor- rectly fit the eyes of the manikin, pinning the lids where necessary. Insert clay through the outside opening of the ear to model its junction with the manikin, and bend the ears to their proper shape, those of a pointer of course hanging down as is shown on next page. This figure shows the dog when finished and on a stand. Your specimen at the present stage should look just the Same except for the stand. You can drive common pins into the body in any hollows to hold the skin in contact with them, and it is well to wind narrow strips of cotton cloth around the body at the hip arid shoulder joints to keep the skin in the proper position dur- ing drying; of course this does not aipply to any long-haired animals, for the strips would make ridges that could never be effaced. The specimen should dry thoroughly before placing it on its permanent stand. Then brush it well, comb the hair out smoothly, *ax abOut the eyes, if necessary. With a small tensM paint the eyelids dark brown and the mu'^^l6 the color of life, which varies from blackish te gray or pink. Black Bear Pointer Dog Guide to Taxidermy 119 We advise the mounting of pet animals on finish- ed oak basesj while wild animals look the best on artificial rock or groundwork, direction for making which are given in Chapter 12. Making Animal Skins Animals, especially for study purposes, are fre- quently made into scientific skins instead of being mounted. The animal should be skinned the same as though it were to be mounted. Poison the skin well; clean and poison the skull and, after wrapping a little cotton about it replace it in the skin. Wrap each leg bone lightly with cotton and turn back. Fill the neck and body of the animal loosely with cotton or excelsior, so as to make the body evenly distended but rather smaller than it was in life. Small animals (no larger than a fox) can have the front legs stretched in front one on either side of the head, and the back ones straight behind. On larger specimens the fore and hind legs are respectively doubled up against the breast and abdomen. No attempt is made to have an animal skin resemble a dead animal. The head may be filled out a trifle through the eyes, and the AkYWtVMKiV ^Vv« COkVvn&\, 120 Guide to Taxidermy lids left in approximate the correct shape ; it is well to have the body rather flattened than round, for the skin will then la}"- in a draw without rolling all about, ^'ery large skins are simply "baled up" that is salted well, partially dried and folded and tied so as to make as small a package as possible. In such cases the skull is usually kept separately but of course both skull and skin must be marked. GtTTOE TO Taxidermy 121 CHAP. 4"Mountma Heads of Animals Mounted heads of any of the larger birds or ani- mals make attractive wall decorations and are valuable reminders of the chase. You will often want to do this work for yourself, and many taxi- dermists derive their chief income from the mount- ing of deer heads. The methods for mounting animal heads have been, and are, subject to a great many variations. Most of these methods ate, how- ever, stuffing, pure and simple, and modern taxi- dermy does not allow of that. All heads should be modeled, that is the head should be modeled to its true form and have the eyes set before the skin is put on. Most taxidermists continue to uSe clay for this purpose, but it is far inferior to either plaster or papier-mache, and is used sitjiply be- cause it requires slightly less time and skill. We will describe and illustrate the best method. 122 Guide to Taxidermy Mounting Deer Heads The instructions that follow apply equally well for mounting any kind of an animal head, large or small. Before skinning the head, take measurements from the base of the horns to the end of nose, cir- cumference of neck at smallest part and also lower down, at about the point that you decide to cut it off. Skinning — All horned animals must be opened down the back of the neck, and must never be split up the throat. Start from between the horns and make a clean cut down the middle of the neck to the shoulders ; thence around the neck both sides, meeting at the base of the fore-neck. This wilt leave plenty of skin to work with, no matter how long or short you may afterward decide to have the neck on your specimen. Most guides and market- men make the mistake of leaving too little of the neck and the taxidermist is often forced to make his mount fit the skin without regard to its best ef- fect. From the opening cuts you have made, gradually fold the skin back, cutting it away from the flesh with a keen-edged skinning knife; this work re- Guide to Taxidermy 123 quires a larger and stronger knife than your scalpel that was used on birds. After having skinned the neck you will come to the ears. Sever these by cutting directly through the tissues and cartilage. Then skin around the base of the horns ; this is a rather tedious process for the novice, but patience arid continued sharpening of the knife will accom- plish it. Of course, in order to skin about the horns j'ou must make a cut from horn to horn, across the end of your first neck cut. From the horns on, as thfe skinning progresses, the scalp is turned inside out like the taking oiF of a glove. Care must be taken in cutting through the membrane of the eye ndt to also cut through the lid, which shows through it as a whitish line. Also use caution just in front of the eye, where the tear duct is locatfed ; the skin here lies in a hollow in the skull- and must be cut out carefully. The next p%nt to look out for is the corner of the mouth ; here jfou want to cut through the skin on the inside of the lip. In cutting through the nostrik^ which you will next, meet, keep rather close to the skull so as to- leave enough bf the skin inside Vthe nostrils to well fill it on the mounted specimen. No' further, ^difficulties wilfbe encounter- ed and the-skin is enigi^ly detached from the skull. Albino Maine Deer Guide to Taxidermy 125 C^eanind the Skull This and cleaning up a scalp or head-skin, are among the most disagreeable pieces of work a taxi- dermist is called upon to perform, but they must be done and if done with a vim and apparent relish, it will be gotten through with quicker and with most satisfaction. With a meat saw you must saw off the back of the skull, a little back of the horns ; you will find that is most convenient to rest the head on the horns and saw through from a point just back of the lower jaws. This exposes the brains which must be scooped out ; hold the skull with the cavity downward and this can readily be done with the skinning knife. The eyes must be taken out, first, loosening them around the circum- ference, then cutting the optic nerves and allowing them to come out whole. Clean all flesh from the skull everywhere, using knife, scissors or fingers, and even a hatchet does not go amiss. Now give the skull a good coat of arsenical soap and put it away to dry, remembering that it must be out of reach of children or any pet animals as it is now dangerous. 126 Guide to Taxidermy Cleaning the Scalp To do this you will need a pair of heavy scissors, those illustrated in Chapter 10 are the best and most durable. Cut off all flesh or fat that may have been left on the skin. Carefully thin the skin down around the eyes and lips ; keep your fingers underneath where you are cutting to keep the skin up firmly against the shears ; it will make you more careful too, for if you cut through the skin your fingers are apt to suffer. With your scalpel split down between the inner and outer skins of the nose, and cut all fat and gristle from each. Skinning the Ears All large animals and especially members of the deer famih', should have the ears skinned and tin- ned, otherwise they are almost certain to shrink and warp out of shape at some time, even though they are held firmly in shape during the process of drying. Ears are skinned by turning them inside out, from the inside of the skin. Start cutting the skin away from the back of the cartilage that fills the ear; you will find that as soon as you have proceed- ed a little ways you can easily push the skin apart from the cartilage with the finger nails or the wood- en handle of your scalpel. The skin on the back of Guide to Taxidermy 127 the ear should be entirely loosened from the carti- lage even to the tip. Rub the ear thoroughly with salt and turn it back again. Curing the Scalp When you have the scalp thoroughly cleaned it can be cured in either of two ways: — The salt bath, directions for making which are given in Chap 10. This will keep a skin that is immersed in it, indefinitely and in a soft condition. For our work we prefer thorough salting of the skin, using fine table salt and rubbing it into all parts of the skin ; let the skin lay flat for twenty-four hours, then pour ofl^ water that has accumulated and salt again, this time folding it carefully up twice. It can then be put away and mounted at any time, it only requiring to be put in a tub of water over night, which will bring it out as well as when first skinned. Each skin should be tagged, giving the length of nose and girth about ears and back of neck. If your skin is to go in pickle, it is best to write this with pencil on a flat wooden tag. Making the Form The first piece to get out is the pear-shaped neck board. This is to set in the back of the neck on an angle and should consequently be a couple of 128 Guide to Taxidermy inches larger than the circumference of the neck at this point. For a medium-sized deer taken in the hunting season, this will usuall}' be just about i!* in., so a neck board of 26 in. would be correct; these figures are not fixed and you must make your measurements to correspond to your head. Make this neck board out of inch pine board. The neck piece is made of two pieces of this board, about four inches wide, nailed together; the shield end should be cut on about an angle of '15 degrees. The length of this piece will depend upon how long a neck you want on your specimen. A medium length is the best and the neck piece usually averages about 12 in. long, measured along the top (this is the shortest side). The back of the skull is chop- ped out with a hatchet to accommodate the end of this neck piece, and the top end of the latter is rounded a little to fit the shape of the skull. The sketches show both these neck pieces and the method of attaching the skull. The skull should be nailed to the neck so that when placed upon the wall the bottom of the under jaw will slant slightly downward. You will notice in the plate on page 150, that the nose of the skull has been cut off just in front of Guide to Taxidermy 129 the teeth, and that there is no lower jaw. This method saves time, botli in cleaning and mounting, for the professional who has many heads to mount but is not necessary or advisable for the amateur. When mounting in this way we have a mould and make a plister cast to replicc the end cut off. The mould is made from a model and casts from the same mould used on oil deer heads, sh-iving them down slightly for very small heads. Unless you are going to mount a gre ',t n?any herds it will l;e best for you to leave the skull entire and build up the nose on it. The neck is formed of excelsior and tightly and smoothlv wound with string, keeping the desired form always in n:ind and being sure that both sides are even (that one does not bulge where the other hollows). The plate shows the form ^vch.v«vevlaxin^ a Deer Scalp If it has been pickled in your bath, it will need no relaxing, just simple rinsing in fresh water. If cured with salt, immerse the skin over night in a tub of water, being sure that all parts are held be- neath the surface (a he ivy board floating on the surface of the water is the best means of keeping a skin entirely under). The next morning it will be limp and can be put into a pail of luke-warm water, rubbing any places that have not become thorough- ly soft, before doing so. Guide to Taxidermy 1 o^ After soaking a couple of hours more, squeeze out as much water as yo'ti can, spread the skin on your bench and thoroughly apply arsenical soap to the skin side^ and it is ready to put on. Put the skin in position, pull it in place around the horns and take a stitch back of each, to hold the skin in place, using waxed strong twine and a large three-cornered needle. If you prefer, you can make a hole with your awl on each edge of the skin where it comes together, and wire them to- gether with copper wire. Either method is equally good and we use one about as much as the other. You will need only two stitches, or, at the most, four, since the skin along the back of the neck is to be tacked to the neck-piece, using inch flat-headed wire nails. (This should be tacked about every inch along both edges of the cut). The skin is then drawn evenly down and tacked on the edge of the neck board et intervals of about one inch. The ears are each to have a piece of sheet tin in them, cut to the shape and a trifle smaller than the ear. This is inserted between the skin on the back of the ear and the cartilage and can be put in place at this time from the outside or, perhaps it will be X c >> _l o o Guide to Taxidermy 135 better for the novice, before the skin is put on the head at all. The nostrils should be tucked in the cavities made for them and a small wad of cotton pushed in each to keep the skin in position. The upper, then the under lips must be tucked into their recesses and pinned there, using common pins for the purpose, driving them into the plaster vpith a tack hammer. The tear-duct should be in place and a flat-headed wire nail driven through it into the skull, the head of the nail drawing the skin down and keeping it in the cavity in the skull. The eye- lids are to be carefully tacked into position and a great deal of the success of your mount will depend upon the artistic skill with which you can make these little finishing touches. With a sharp-edged skinning knife now cut off the superfluous neck skin, cutting close to the neck board. The head is now rested upon its horns and a temporary board screwed on the back-board. This should be quite a bit larger than the neck-board and should have a large hole bored near the top edge so you can hang the head up to dry. The ear, which is already tinned, should be bent into shape and held in position by driving a «X f 4Y6w\\l«.vt. 136 Guide to Taxidermy straight, pointed piece of Xo. 10 wire through its opening, the plaster, tow and into the neck-piece. The wire is now sharply- bent over the upper edge of the ear and pinched so as to hold the ear firmly. The natural position for the ears, that is, the one that makes the best and most life-like mount, is to have their top edge 'just touching the under side of the horns ; this throws the ears forward in a very attentive or expectant manner. Finishing the Head Your specimen should be allowed to dry for at least a week before doing anything further with it, and longer if j'our room is cold or damp. Cut oif the pins about the mouth as close to the skin as pos- sible, and then, with a nail-set or an inverted nail, drive them in so they will not show. The pins about the eyes should be cirefully pulled out with a twist- ing motion so as not to separate the skin from the eyes. If the lips have been properly tucked in, the mouth will need no further attention. Remove the cotton from the nostrils and smooth up the cavity, if it needs it, with a little melted wax. Wax should also be used to fill any crack that may show about the eyes. Brush the head up well, comb the hair on tl:e neck, and it is rendy to be put on its shield. Guide to Taxidermy l.'i'; Tlie shape of the shield and the m-iterial of which it is made are entirely matters for individual taste. Sketches on page 139 show some common and artistic forms that are used. Your dealer in supplies can probably furnish j'ou with shields or you can have a cabinet maker make up your own design. Having the head on the shield, it remains but to paint the e^'elids and tear-ducts dark brown and the muzzle black, when your work will be entirelj^ completed. These directions may appear to be lengthy and to, at first glance, give one the idea that mounting a head is a very difficult piece of work. The contrai-y is the case ; it is easily done, but we believe that explicit instructions are better than too meagre ones, and so have exjilained everj-- thing as iully as possible. As a matter of fact, anyone, by working his brains a bit, can go ahead and mount a ver}' successful deer head by the aid of these accompanying illustrations alone. Mounting Other Heads The foregoing instructions are adapted without change for mounting elk, moose, coribou, antelope, or any member of the deer family. ' Fur-bearing animals, such as bears, dogs, cats, etc., sliould have the hair thoroughly dried out in civ\e 138 Guide to Taxidermy sawdust before mounting. The Rocky Mountain Goat is the only hair-bearing American animal that requires drying of the hair before mounting. This animal has fine, pure white hair and should be washed in soap and water, given a naptha bath and then dried by rapidly dusting dry plaster through the hair. The forms for all animal heads are made the same, — out of wood, skull and plaster, or papier-mache. Open Mouths The head is mounted as already explained but of course we must make an artificial tongue. This is whittled to as true a shape as possible out of wood and then waxed. The wax should be melted and a tWiA^i W«ife %to\\p. jj^^g ^^j^j. ^jjg^ gj,.,^gj. gjj pgj^^. pj. ^j.y po^jgj will do. It will then give the tongue a very natural appearance. Fasten the tongue in place with wax also. Bird Heads These should have a wire firmly attached to the skull when the skin is turned inside out, and the neck wound with cotton. Draw the wire down and attach firmly to the shield and the neck feathers will spread out and form an attractive finish. Guide to Taxidermy 139 CHAP. 5-Tannin^ Skins Every taxidermist has to know how to make rugs^ tan skins for boas, muiFs, etc. For home dec- oration, where one fox is mounted probably twenty will be made into rugs and the proportion of larger animals is even greater. The tanning of bear, dear and coon skins by hand is a laborious undertaking, but it can be done and done well. However we should advise anyone having large work to send it to a professional tanner, who has the proper ma- chinery for breaking up the fibre. We will first describe the tanning of a fox skin and the making it into a rug. Other animals are done in just the same way, the only difference be- ing in the amount of work necessary to make the skin soft and pliable. Preparing a Skin ior Tanning Your fox may be freshly killed or, as most often happens, it may be sent to you skinned and dried. In the latter case, it should be split up the middle of the belly to the chin, and across on the inside of each foreleg to the toes. Then immerse it, tail and SW^efe^ ^w «.Vk.\e\A& Mastiff St. Bernard Guide to Taxidermy Ml all, in luke-warm soapy water and leive over night. In the morning it will be thoroughly relaxed, and should be squeezed out and thoroughly dried in sawdust. If your fox is in the flesh, make a cut from the chin to the root of the tail, and down the middle of each leg to the toes; remove the skin and clem off all flesh or fat, either with the fingers or scissors. It will then be ready for stretching. A skin for a rug m-iy have the head mounted with an open mouth, showing teeth and tongue ; it may be mounted with a half head, mouth closed; or it majr be left flat with no e3'es in. If the heid is to be mounted at all it should be done before the skin is stretched. Mounting the Head You can either use the natural skull or an entire- ly artificial head. Your dealer in naturalist's sup- plies will carry in stock, papier-mache heads of either the half-head or open-mouth variety, and for most any kind of an animal. If you wish to make the head yourself, clean the skull well, and dry it with the jaws set in the posi- 5fo«,. M\\'';. Guide to Taxidermy 161 rectly and there is a great deal of satisfaction in having your work right. Tack it along both edges of the cut, using ordin- ary small flat-headed tacks, (if you should have opened your specimen on the belly you will ha\e to tack it with common pins, cutting each off short after you have driven it in a short distance). Put a thin layer of clay on the inside of the top and cheeks of the head; this is necessary because it is impossible to thoroughly clean all particles from these regions. Pin the apex, at the front of the belly-skin, in position between the gills, and draw these latter into their proper place and pin them there (driving common pins through the bony structure into the wood, and afterwards cutting them off short). Pin the upper and lower jaws into place, the lat- ter fitting in the hollow made for it in the wooden form. Set the eyes in clay. You will notice that fish have different eyes from any of the birds or animals. The pupil is irregular and the iris often colored with gold or silver. Your dealer will prob- ably have fish eyes in stock; if not you can get. the uncolored eyes, having only the pupil and color them yourself. The pectoral fins of a fish are usually carried at the side or out a little from the body, so the one on stveweA u Guide to Taxidermy 168 the back side of your specimen will not show and can be pinned to the side. Screw a temporary board to the back of the fish; this will serve to protect the fins and to hang it up while drying. The pectoral and ventral fins are held at the proper angle from the body by driving a pin through the base of each into the form. The pectoral, ventral, anal and dorsal fins are spread and held in position with a strip of ising-glass or mica on each side, clamping the two pieces together with wires. The tail should lay flat against the board; it should be spread and held with a strip of card tacked to the temporary panel. Put your specimen where it will not be disturbed until dry. Fish dry quickly and if the room is of ordinary temperature it should be dry in about two days. Painting When the fish is dry, you will find that the colors- have nearly all faded, but probably most of the markings will still be faintly visible. This is the best time to paint the subject, for in time even the markings will entirely disappear. It will be far preferable if, when you are ready to paint the fish, you can obtain a fresh one to re- fer to, as well as your drawing. At any rate, do not attempt to mount a fish without first making a ' JIlllllHllUlUHIIi" 164 Guide to Taxidermy record of all the colors. You will find that you can carry them in your mind perfectly as long as the specimen stays bright; as he begins to fade, so will his natural appearance from your mind; when his colors have entirely gone, you will find, to your sorrow (if you have no sketch) that your recollec- tion as to its appearance is about as blank as the skin of the fish. All fish shade from darker on the back to light on the belly. Paint the back and sides of your specimen first, using the colors verjf thin (use transparent oil paint), so that the fish will not have a "painty" appearance; next put the ground color on the belly and blend it with that of the back and sides. If any of the scales are off, you will have to outline them with a fine brush. You can now strengthen the markings on the specimen, if it naturally has any, such as stripes or spots. If the head is not perfectly smooth, wax it before painting so as to make it so. Having completed the painting, you will have to let it dry about two days more ; then you can give it a coat of good quality varnish. This will bring out the color and give the glossy appearance a fish has on being pulled from the water. When the varnish is dry, take the fish from the board, lay it front down on a soft dry cloth; wax the opening cut and paint the back, of course, pay- Guide to Taxidermy 165 ing the most attention to those parts nearest the top and bottom of the fish, which may show when it is on its panel. Let it stand until dry. Finishing A fish can be displayed to good advantage on either an oval or rectangular oak panel ; or it can be placed in a hollow box, with painted back- ground and galss front. The best method of dis- playing a fish for house decoration is to put it un- der an oval, convex glass, with a painted back- ground and neat frame. This method will be the most expensive, but it makes a dining-room decora- tion that cannot be surpassed ; a well-mounted and colored fish is worthy of being so framed. Mounting Lar^e Fish Fish not more than three feet in length, we al- ways mount with solid wooden bodies. Fish of more than that length are best done by making a wooden center board, winding it with tow or ex- celsior and covering with either plaster or papier- mache the same as in making a manikin for a large animal. This manikin, when dry, should have one or two coats of white lead, the same as the wooden one. 2 3 5 ^ cog o Guide to Taxiderm>¥' 167 CHAP. 7-Reptiles Most persons have a horror of snakes. This dis- like also is common among many taxidermists, a great many of whom will refuse to mount one, either because they do not know how or are afraid to. With few exceptions, snakes are about as harm- less creatures as we have. If one will lose sight of the fact that they are just "snakes'' he will soon see that there are a great many beautiful species. The mounting of them is difficult but they make a very interesting collection. Skinning A snake ^skins very easily; in fact, it is much easier to skin a snake than it is to kill it. Snakes, that is the majority of them, are useful creatures Yw\>V^^ SviiMiVa. so do not kill one unless you have use for it, and then do not smash its head with a club or rock. Catch your snake by pinning it to the ground with a stick so that you can grasp it by the neck with the left hand; then kill it by forcing the blade of 168 GniDE TO Taxidermy your jack-knife into its mouth and severing the backbone just back of the head^ taking care not to cut through the skin. Aside from tht- use of chloroform, this is the most painless method of killing a reptile; then it will take some minutes before all motion will cease. A snake sheds its skin by breaking it about the neck and then crawling out; you can skin one in nearly the same manner, by making a short slit on the throat and then drawing the body from the skin, but this method loosens most of the scales on the body and is to be strongly condemned. The only correct way to skin a snake is to split it the entire length of the under side, after which you can lay the skin back and easily remove the body, without the loss of a single scale. The bony struc- ture of the head has to be cut out with the scissors. Poison the skin well with arsenical soap. Mounting If you have a freshly killed snake it is much bet- ter to make the bod}' before you skin the specimen. You can then be certain that it is exactly as it should be. Two wires are used in a snake body, one from the head to the vent and thence out through the skin ; this wire is usually the only sup- port needed and should be large enough to sustain Guide to Taxidermy 169 the snake in the position that you intend to place it in. The other wire is twisted about this above the vent and continues on down to the end of the tail. Wind this wire form with tow so as to be slight- ly smoother than the specimen; wind it firmly and smoothly with the cops and bear in mind that the smoother you get the body the better the finished work will be. It must now be bent to approximate- ly the shape that you wish the snake to occupy. If it is to be coiled, have the coils separated so that you can get at it to sew the skin on; they can then easily be closed together without destroying the shape of the specimen. This tow body must be smoothly covered with either papier-mache or clay. The snake is then skinned as described above and the skin very carefully put upon the manikin. y«(v<)^t oi \MVV«i Of course the excellency of your work will depend ViovkwA \wv^;VxTko>fi«j entirely upon the body you have made; the skin should just meet the whole length. It must now be sewed up the whole length, a tedious job and one requiring skill and a delicate touch to avoid de- stroying the contour of the body. You can now fasten the specimen on a temporary board by Prong-Horn Antelope Guide to Taxidermy 171 means of the wire which projects from the vent, adjust the coils as you want them and see that the whole body is entirely free from humps or hollows. The eyes for the specimen will have to have vertical pupils. You can get the proper size of clear glass and color them yourself. They can be set in jjutty as soon as the specimen is mounted or ^T^V^^^^W tww if you do not happen to have the eyes on hand you ^^^ , ,> ^ . can put them in by softening the lids, at any time, .^'y^^^ >n\\o\i> \ty\aW When the specimen is dry, the seam on the un- derside should be waxed wherever it is visible and the specimen, especially if it was a bright colored one will have to be retouched with oil paint for the color fades a great deal on all serpents. Another Method The snake can be skinned as before and filled with either sand or fine sawdust. Commencing at the tail, sew up a couple inches, then fill this sec- tion with sand, pressing it firmly into a round shape; then sew up a couple inches more and so on until you have the entire specimen filled but not "stuffed" beyond its original proportions. When using this method it is best to bend the body in po- 172 Guide to Taxidermy sition as you fill it, for it is difficult to bend it after- wards without destroying its symmetry. If yo" Avish, and we think it is the better way, you can start a wire in the body at the tail and keep it in the center the whole length. This gives a great deal of firmness that is often necessary. We consider the first method to be by far the best, but have both seen and done very satis- factory work by using either. It is best to mount your specimen with the mouth closed until you have become quite expert; it requires a great deal of artistic talent to successfully model the interior of a serpent's mouth. Guide to Taxidermy 173 CHAP. 8 Collecting and Mountinti Butter- flies and Moths A taxidermist is supposed to, and should, know how to mount anything that may be brought to him. Few collectors confine themselves to just one branch; they should be familiar with the members of other branches and know what to collect and how to preserve an3'thing they may come across. So a few words relatives to the collecting and mounting of various kinds of insects will not be amiss in this volume. Butterflies and moths form very beautiful and interesting collections. Of course they are very fragile and, until improvements within recent years. the caring for a collection has been a trying job. Now with the Denton and Riker mounts, they can be collected with the assurance that they will be safe from the ravages of insects and from break- Collectin^ We will not go into extensive discussion of the many methods by which insects can be caught. The HHIH HHi H WSSSSfSk H| ♦ '** ^ — . .. -_ . - '^^ 1 ^^g HHHjH^^H jHH BM^H ^B ^ M CD o E Guide to Taxidermy 175 butterfly net is the instrument most often used. The most simple form of net, that of a hoop of wire, covered with muslin or mosquito netting, and attached to the end of a stick is as effective as any and can be made at home by anyone. The hoop should be about a foot in diameter and the net should bag about eighteen inches. Many forms of folding nets have been made. The most service- able one that we know of is one that is made for a landing net for fishermen. You can find one at a sporting goods house or at many hardware dealers. Of course the fish net has to be removed and a fine net bag substituted. It comes with a short handle which may be replaced with a longer one if desired. This net folds into a package about an inch in diameter and a couple feet long, while when open it is as rigid as a non-folding net. As soon as a fly is caught a slight twist of the wrist will fold the bag over the frame so as to imprison the insect in the lower end. Of course the most perfect flies are those raised from cocoons or chrysalids; these can often be found on the ground or hanging to branches or rails. Often you can get the worms or caterpillars and by feeding them upon the leaves upon which you find them, they will usually transform them- ^\^(^k* 176 Guide to Taxidermy f-a ' ' I selves into either cocoons or chrysalids from which the moth or butterfly will later emerge. Bright lights attract most moths and the most fruitful places in which to find these are about arc lights on the outskirts of a city at night. Killing Insects All butterflies can readily be killed by compress- ing the body, between the thumb and fore-finger, directly under the wings ; if care is used their feathers will not be injured in the least. They can be pinched right through the net before remo^dng. Cloths have large bodies and if treated in the same way the juices would soil them. These are best killed with a drop of naptha or benzine on the head. This is also used for killing any kinds of bugs. Any specimen should be mounted as soon as possible after killing with naptha for it hardens the joints much quicker than if they are killed in other ways. jNlany kill their specimens by putting them in a cyanide jar. The making and use of this is described under the head of cyanide in Chapter 10. Mounting With the mounts that are now used for display- ing flies, it is unnecessary to have the setting boards Guide to Taxidermy 177 with a groove for the insect's body, such as were formerly used. Tack a piece of card to a smooth board; spread the wings of the fly and lay it, top down, on this. Pin through the center of the body into the board and stretch each wing into the proper position and pin it (with one pin close to the body). In a correctly mounted, fully-spread fly the low- er edge of the upper wings should form a straight line across on either side of the body. All insects for a collection should be mounted in this way. When you have the wings spread, pin a strip of card across both the upper and lower ones. The pin in the body may now be carefully drawn out and the antennae must be pinned evenly in front of the head. They will dry and be ready to put in the mount in a couple days. The Riker mount is composed of cotton in a box, with a glass cover. The fly is laid on the cotton and the cover put on, this pressing the specimen firmly into the cotton and protecting it from moths or breakage. A folded fly may be put in the same mount with a spread one to show both the upper and under sides ; the chrysalids and mounted cater- pillars as well as the pressed plants that they feed upon are often also included, thus giving a life his- tory of the species. These mounts lend themselves readily to many decorative eff"ects for wall orna- Q,0*^V(>.%■i\no^\^^^Aa^5, AdvoV o'l y\a\irtv» Y>.\.\.Vvyv«v vvv^fetti 12 178 Guide to Taxidermy ments, by combining pressed flowers with bright colored butterflies. The Denton mount is made of plaster, with a depression in the center for the insect's body. The fly is put in position with a touch of glue under each wing and the cover glass put on and bound with paper. Another Denton mount has glass both front and back to show both sides of a fly. This is an excellent one for scientific study of the insect. Caterpillars and Worms can be mounted as fol- lows: Squeeze the insides entirely out through the anus. It will probably require some practice before you can be sure of doing this successfully. Insert the end of a straw or small tube in this opening and expand the skin with the breath, at the same time holding it above heat (a lamp will do) and continually turning it so it will dry evenly and in the proper position. Take care not to stretch the skin or to get it near enough to the heat to scorch it. The tube may be either cut off" short or removed. Many bright colored specimens will have to be retouched with oil paint as the colors are very apt to leave. Guide to Taxidermy 179 CHAP. 9 Collecting and Preparing E^^s Only a very few years ago the collecting of bird eggs was a very common thing; scarcely a boy but had a small collection. Fortunately this has been discouraged as well as prohibited by law, so that at present it is necessary to have a permit from the state to collect and then only for scientific pur- poses. Unless our reader intends to make Ornithol- ogy or Oology a special and permanent study, we entreat him not to start a collection of eggs. Such collecting is permissible and may be bene- ficial to science if properly and conscientiously car- ried out. In some parts of the country birds can be found nesting at all seasons of the year, but, as a rule, the nesting season occurs in the months of May, June and July. For collecting eggs in the field, a small satchel, a fish basket or even a dinner box swung over the Guide to Taxidermy 181 shoulder with a strap, are the best receptacles. Each egg must be snugly wrapped in cotton and carefully put awaj' in the box. Single eggs are worthless ; they must be collected in whole, original sets and usually the nest should be taken along with them. One of the worst prac- tices that ever prevailed was the taking of a single egg from a nest. Nine out of ten of our wild birds will immediately leave a nest if a single egg is taken. Eggs must be blown with but a single hole, artd that in the side, otherwise they are of no value. Drills made expressly for this purpose may be ob- tained of your dealer in supplies. They have fine machine-cut burs on the head, which when the drill is rotated between the fingers, rapidly cuts a round hole in the side of an egg. An egg shell is very fragile and the drill must be handled with the greatest of care. Sometimes it is best to start the hole with the point of a small pin. The contents of the egg are easily removed by forcing air through this hole with a blowpipe. The end of the pipe must never be inserted in the egg. Simply blow the air through it, with the mouth, into the 182 Guide to Taxidermy opening and th6 contents will come out the same hole. We consider that any form of water or hand blower is useless. Eggs must not be collected in any quantity sufficient to make a water blower necessary and for a small number of eggs at a time, your own bellows are far better than any artificial ones. Sometimes eggs will be collected, that have well formed young in them. Of course, unless it should be some rare species, they should not be taken un- less they are believed to be fresh. By using care a good sized chick can be removed without damage '^\o'NVV\<^ IM\ ec^^. to the shell if you have embryo scissors and a hook with which to cut it up. After you have the con- tents cleaned out of the egg, blow a mouthful of water in to rinse it out. Wipe it carefully with a soft cloth and the egg is ready to be marked for the cabinet. Of course an egg the identity of whose parents is unknown, is useless; so never take a set unless you know what it is, or secure the bird to identify it by. Eggs are marked with a soft black pencil; each egg has to have the A. O. U. No. of the bird, fol- VvoccVawc^ eww %<^<^. Guide to Taxidermy 183 lowed by the set number. Suppose you find one set of 3 Blue Jays and two sets of 4 eggs each. The first set would be marked 477 1-3, the sec- ond 477 1-4 and the third 477 2-4. Each egg of a set must be numbered with the same set mark. A good form of data blank is shown in the marginal sketch on this page. Each set of eggs must be accompanied by a data such as this. Every set of eggs collected should be entered on your register of specimens collected and given its consecutive number on the data blank just after the heading "Remarks'' which is intended for the composition and position of the nest. This register of speci- mens should be in one book or set of books and every specimen you collect should be entered un- der a consecutive number regardless of whether it is beast, bird, fish or egg. The matter of style of cabinet in which to keep a collection of eggs depends upon individual taste and the amount of money you can put into it. Most collections are in cases of shallow drawers, each set being in a pasteboard tray, which also contains the data, neatly folded. These trays are of dif- ferent sizes but all of a uniform depth, 3-4 in. 9% A(\tft VVc^vkVL. 184 Guide to Taxidermy CtXcv^^ ■\(iiVlP*^ Wx,. ^i>». %-cve,s>\. The following sizes are most often used and they are such that they will fit uniformly into the drawers, each size occupying just twice the space of the size next smaller: 1 1-2x2; 2x3; 3x4; and 4x6; these sizes will accommodate most any set. The eggs are safest laid in these trays with no cotton packing whatever. A better but more expensive method of exhibit- ing an egg collection is to have them in trays about two inches deep and with a cover having a glass top. The eggs are set lightly in cotton and the glass holds them firmly in place; they can be handled by anyone without danger of breakage. The best method, and also the most costly, is to have the glass-topped pasteboard boxes large enough to take in both the nest and eggs. This of course calls for large boxes and very large cabinets. This last method is the one adopted in the museum of Mr. J. E. Thayer, at Lancaster, Mass., whose collection is one of the finest and most complete in the country. Guide to Taxidermy 185 CHAP. 10 Tools and Materials Used by the Taxidermist How TO Make, or Where to Obtain Them. How TO Use Them We do not want you to think that all of these following articles are absolutely essential to the taxidermist. Until you get to be an expert you can get along with a very few of them. We have endeavored to list in alphabetical order practically all the things that any taxidermist will ever wish. Any materials mentioned in the text will be found here, telling where to get them or how to make them, and how to use them. Alcohol This is the chief ingredient of shellac and is used for thinning the same when it becomes too thick for use. One of the most important uses for alcohol is '.-1^ h Deer Head (Turned sharply to left) Guide to Taxidermy the preserving, entire, of small specimens. These may be taken out and mounted at any time, but specimens such as snakes, lizards, fish, etc., are frequently preserved for exhibition in alcohol. Many druggists sell adulterated alcohol; it should contain at least 9-i% of absolute alcohol which is recognized as pure. For use the alcohol should be diluted with one-third its bulk of water. It is best to put it in large-mouthed glass jars, just a bit larger than your specimens require. Whatever the specimen you wish to preserve, it is best to first make a deep cut on the abdomen so the liquid will have free action on their interior. You can get alcohol at druggists and often at paint stores, but you want grain alcohol and not wood, such as dealers in paints most often use. Alum Powdered alum is often used by the taxidermist. It is a hardening substance, that is, it will cause the skin of an animal to shrink and harden. It is used chiefly in the "salt and alum" bath, which is described under salt. Arsenic By this we do not mean the mineral arsenic, but the white powdered form (arsenious acid). This verj' necessary article is Poisonous, taken internal- 188 Guide to Taxidermy ly or if it gets in cuts or scratches, so it must al- ways be handled with due caution and never left where anyone else can get hold of it; it should al- ways be plainly marked Poison. Its fumes are harmless and we know of no case of poisoning ex- cept through gross negligence of ordinary precau- tions. It can be rubbed on the inside of a bird or animal skin in its dry form, but we advise its use in the form of Arsenical Soap. You can buy this al- ready prepared of your dealer in taxidermists' sup- plies or you can make it as follows : Slice two pound bars of white soap into two quarts of water and boil until the soap is melted. Add two pounds of powdered arsenic and four ounces of camphor, stirring the mass to prevent its burning. Add water to make it the consistency of cream, then allow it to cool, stirring it occasionally to prevent the ar- senic from settling. Apply it with an ordinary, round stifF-bristled paint brush to any skin that you wish to poison. An agate pail is the best in which to make the soap ; do not use anj' of the fam- ily cooking utensils. Keep it in cans, plainly label- led. Hard Soap is often used if you are to make an extended trip. It is made just as before but is not thinned, so when it cools it will be about the con- sistency of butter. This should be kept in tin boxes. It can be used by wetting the brush and working the soap into a lather. Guide to Taxidermy 189 Arsenic Solution This solution is often used to dip animal skins into, to make them insect proof. It is made by placing 2 pounds of crystallized arsenic and 1 pound of Bicarbonate of Soda in 4 quarts of water and boiling until the ingredients have thoroughly dissolved. This solution should be kept in a tight bottle and for use be diluted with four times its bulk of water. The skin may be en- tirely immersed in it or the solution may be spray- ed on the fur with an atomizer. This solution answers the purpose verj^ well, but we prefer either Corrosive Sublimate or a Sulphuric Acid so- lution as described under these heads. Blowpipe This is used for blowing bird eggs. It is a brass tube with the end drawn out to a fine point and slightly up-turned. The point is not to be in- serted in the hole in the egg, but held close to it, forcing the air in, which in turn, forces the con- tents out. You can obtain this from a naturalists' supply dealer. Bone Shears These are large strong scissors capable of cut- ting through wing and leg bones of large birds. 190 Guide to Taxidermy Brain Spoon This is a metal rod with the end forged into a small scoop. It is used for removing brains from the heads of birds or animals. A great many taxi- dermists use this instrument but we have always failed to see any superiority in it over the blade of the scalpel or points of the scissors, and we certain- ly would not advise having any additional tools un- less there is some distinct advantage to be gained therefrom. Your suppl_Y dealer will have them if j'ou wish to try one. Chain and Hooks This is an article that most books advise and that some taxidermists use. It is composed of three stout hooks (not barbed) each attached by a chain to a ring. They are used to suspend the bodies of partly skinned specimens for the purpose of assist- ing in the operation. A block and tackle with a good stout hook is useful when skinning large animals that are too heavy to handle, but there are no birds in this country but what we should prefer to skin without the aid of a chain and hooks. When using this contrivance on birds, one hook is to go through the small of the back after you have skinned that far; then when you reach the Guide to Taxidermy 191 wings the other two are brought into play. Your supply dealer can furnish them. Clay Potter's clay is always a very useful and often a necessary article for a taxidermist to have in stock. Many use it for modelling the faces of ani- mals and for reproducing muscles on the body and legs (for this purpose, in the majority of cases, either plaster or papier-mache are preferable) while for the mounting of reptiles it is indispen- sible. Clay comes in dry lumps and is heavy, so if you have to order it from a distance it is best to get a quantity and have it come bj' freight. Your supply dealer will have it, or if there is an iron foundry near, you can get it there. For use, clay is either broken up finely with a hammer or rolled out with a wooden roll. Water is added in small quantities and mixed until the clay becomes stiff, so it can be worked and moulded with the hands. It is best to cut up a small quantity of tow, as finely as possible and stir this in with the clay. This adds much to the strength of the clay when it is dry. Cops For winding the plumage of birds as well as for winding the bodies, nothing is as good as cops. This is fine, soft, cotton thread that is used for "O CO Q- d a 3 o u illl ■a ^ Guide to Taxidermy 193 spinning in cotton mills. It is so fine that enormous quantities are wound on a small paper core. It should have a wire hooked into the projecting end of the paper core, and be suspended from the ceil- ing over your work bench. Your dealer in supplies has these. Cork Bark This is a thick, but light, bark of a South Amer- ican tree. It is very useful in both commercial and ornamental taxidermy, for the making of artificial stumps. It comes in pieces up to as large as eight or nine inches in diameter and three or four feet long. Your supply dealer will have it. Corn Meal Unbolted corn meal may be used in places of sawdust for taking up moisture when skinning spe- cimens. It is necessary to use this if the flesh is to be saved for eating, because it washes off easily while sawdust sticks. Sawdust is much the best though for specimens whose meat is not to be sa\'- ed. Every grocery store keeps it. Coriosive Sublimate (Bicloride of Mercury) This is a poison, a solution of which is used for preventing the destruction of specimens by insect 13 194 Guide to Taxidermy pests. To a pint of alcohol is added one ounce of corrosive sublimate (which is a white powder) ; shake it and then allow to stand for a couple hours. The powder will not entirely dissolve but you will have the liquid above it fully saturated with the poison. Carefully pour this liquid off into another jar with an equal quantity of water. A skin may be immersed in the liquid and then dried or it may be sprayed on with an atomizer. Some taxider- mists keep a metal-lined box iilled with fine white sand saturated with tliis solution, and bury their skins to be poisoned in this box for twenty-four hours. Moths will not touch a skin so treated. Cotton This is one of the necessities for the taxidermist. It is used almost exclusively for the filling, in making up skins, and for winding the artificial necks of most birds. Ordinary cotton batting such as all dry goods stores sell is the best for this purpose, and will answer all the requirements of the taxidermist. Absorbent cotton is the best for putting in the mouths of freshly killed birds and for stopping up shot holes, but it is much more ex- pensive than the ordinary and the latter will do. Cyanide of Potash Is used in the making of cyanide jars for the Guide to Taxidermy 195 killing of moths and butterflies. You should have a wide-mouthed jar, preferably one with a ground glass stopper for it is necessary to keep the jar closely stoppered when not in use. Place a layer of the crystals in the bottom of the j ar and cover them lightly with cotton. Cut a piece of card the size of the inside of the jar, and prick it full of pinholes, push it down on the cotton and fasten with four pieces of gummed paper at equal dist- ances around the edge. A butterfly or moth placed in this jar succumbs in a few minutes, and then should be transferred to the collecting box. Eid Drill For drilling holes in birds eggs preparatory to blowing them. These, with fine machine-cut burr, can be procured from your supply dealer. Eggs are blown through one hole in the side, and that hole should be as small as possible. Embryo Hook Used for tearing to pieces and pulling embryos from bird eggs. An instrument with a fine hooked point. Embryo Scissors Very small scissors, being slender where the two parts cross, so they will work inside of small eggs. Pileated Woodpeckers (One ot the largest of the species) Guide to Taxidermy 197 Of course the hole is drilled much larger when a chick is in the egg. Excelsior Used for the filling of mounted specimens more than any other material. You should get the finest possible, especially for small work. You can get it of your supply dealer, at furni- ture stores, mattress makers, at many grocers or in fact any merchant who has goods packed in it. Eyes See Chapter 1 1 for sizes and styles of eyes to use for birds, animals, etc. Forceps See tweezers. Formaldehyde A five per cent, solution of this (one part formal- dehyde to twenty of water) makes an excellent bath for preserving specimens in the flesh. It is equally as good as alcohol and costs but a fraction as much. You can get it at the druggists. Glue Glue has no end of uses for the taxidermist, chief of which is probably in the making of stands and rockwork for finished specimens. Prepared liquid glue is all right for putting feathers in birds 198 Guide to Taxidermy or patches of hair on animals that need repairing, but pulverized glue is much the best for making bases. You can produce it of any dealer in hard- ware. It has to be made in a glue-pot or double pail. Two lard pails, one that will go in the other with an inch all around, make an excellent glue- pot. A quart of water and half a pound of glue (or in that proportion) are placed in the small pail and this is set in the large one, which must be half full of water. It must be heated on the stove until the glue melts. It should be of a consistency to run readily but not be watery. It is applied with a stiff -bristle brush. Glycerine and Carbolic Acid Solution WWMlhl'// ^y means of this solution, specimens after hav- ^AiHi/]/ ^^^ been skinned can be kept for several months in ^==='- * ' a soft state, and require little or no further relax- ation before mounting.' It is very useful for a busy collector on a long field journey as it saves him much time and the skins can be packed flat thus saving a great deal of room. The solution is made of 2-3 glycerine and 1-8 carbolic acid. It should be thoroughly applied with a soft brush to every part of the inside skin of your specimen. If you are careful you can cover the inside of the skin and get none on the fur or Guide to Taxidermy 199 feathers; even if you do no harm is done but you will have to wash it oiF before mounting. A skin prepared in this way should have a piece of wet cotton placed inside the night before you wish to mount it. The feet should also be immersed for they will become harr]. Grasses You can get various kinds of dried and colored grasses of your supply dealer. These are used on bases and in making natural surrounding for case work as described in Chapted 12. Icicles You can buy these ready made of your supply dealer or you can make them yourself as follows: Get several pieces of glass tubing, ranging in diameter from 1-4 to 1-2 in. from your druggist. You will need a Bunsen burner (if you have gas in the house, if not an alcohol lamp will do) and a piece of number 14 wire. The latter should be cut into four-inch pieces. Heat the end of one of the tubes and also the end of one of the wires in the flame at the same time. When both are red hot, you can unite them firmly by twisting the wire in the red hot tube; let this cool a bit, then put the tube in the flame again at a point an inch or more from the wire according to the length that you wish to make the icicle; as the glass begins to soften Vtvcve 200 Guide to Taxidermy pull gently on the wire and the cold end of the tube^ and the glass will commence to stretch. By removing the tube slowly along through the flame, away from the wire, you can draw it down smaller and smaller and finally terminate it by melting the glass entirely off. A little practice ^UnAvift ^jij enable you to make these quickly and natural- They are attached to branches or rockwork by the wires. See Snow Scenes in Chapter 12. Leaves See under Foliage in Chapter 12. Led Drill This instrument is often useful in making holes in the legs of dried skins so as to allow the wire to pass through when mounting. You can buy these of your supply dealer or make small sizes out of knitting needles. Get an awl handle at the hardware store; heat one end of the needle red hot, then flatten it on a flat or any iron surface with a hammer. Hold the needle firmly in a vise and drive the awl handle on the flattened end. The other end can be sharply pointed with a file. Mica Flakes This is very finely flaked white mica; used com- monly in making snow scenes. See Chapter 12. You can get it of your supply dealer. Moss — See under foliage in Chapter 12. Guide to Taxidermy 201 Naptha One of the most useful articles for the taxider- mist. Used for removing grease from the skins, feathers or fur of specimens before mounting; the best agent for cleaning old mounted birds ; for kill- ing moths or dermestes, that may have infected Ylaa specimens, and for killing butterflies and moths for the entomologist. You can get it at a druggist or a dealer in paints. It is very i«flammable and must not be kept or used near a fire or light. Napthaline Flake It is well to sprinkle the bottoms of all dravs^ers containing skins with this, as well as to pack it in plentifully with skins, furs or mounted specimens that are boxed for storage. Moths dislike its odor and rarely touch the contents of a box containing it. Druggists keep it. Needles Ordinary needles you will of course get from - dealer in dry goods. Three-cornered straight or curved needles are the best for sewing up either birds or animals as the edges of the point cut through the skin much more readily than a round point will. You can get these of your dealer in supplies. Paint Many colors and kinds of paints are useful to the professional taxidermist, for coloring bird's feet and bills, fish, and especially for making rock ^wv* = 2 Qg O III ■9 "3 IS 9 IS Guide to Taxidermy 203 work and stumps. Anyone can get along very nicely with the following oil paints which come in tubes : Chrome yellow medium^ chrome green, ivory black, flake white, vermillion, VanDyke brown, Prussian blue and burnt sienna. With these colors you can obtain any shade that you may wish. A little dab of each color that you wish to use is squeezed on a clean piece of glass. Dip your brush into a jar of turpentine and then into the paint. Papier Mache Has as many or more uses than any other mater- ial used by the taxidermist. It is very inexpensive, very strong and, when dry, very light. You can make it as follows: Tear several newspapers into as small pieces as possible ,and bear in mind that the cheaper the paper the better pulp it will make ; do not use a glazed paper. Soak these in warm water for two or three hours then rub the resulting pulp between the hand until no recognizable pieces of paper are left. Squeeze it partially dry and crumble into another dish; add sufficient melted glue (prepared as described under that head in this Chapter) to form a very sticky mass when stirred with a putty knife. Add whiting and work the mass between the fingers until it becomes smooth, with absolutely no lumps and only slightly sticky to the hands. It should be used as soon as possible after making and you should make no 201 Guide to Taxidermy more than you wish to use for it only keeps a day or two before becoming too hard to work. You can apply it wherever wanted with a putty knife or wooden paddle and shape it with the fingers. It is used for covering skulls for open mouth heads for rug work ; covering the skull and neck for mounting deer heads^ etc. ; repairing broken bills or legs of birds ; for rock and stump work. As it dries exceedingly hard it should be left in just the shape and degree of smoothness that you wish be- fore setting the work away to dry. Pinkio^ Iron An iron instrument having a sharp-toothed edge for cutting through felt or cloth to make a scalloped edge. Hardware dealers keep them in stock. Pliers You can get any size pliers or pinchers that you wish at your hardware dealers. See under Wire Cutters for the best kind. Pins While sharpened wires will answer for pinning the wings of any birds, pins are more convenient. For small birds numbers 2 and 6 Insect Pins are the best. (These are longer and more slender than common pins) ; for large birds Taxidermists Pins can be used. (These are about 2 1-2 inches in length). Either kind can be obtained from yoar dealer in supplies. Guide to Taxidermy 205 Plaster Has many uses in the art of taxidermy, chief of which arc the covering of manikin for mounted animals and heads^ and for drying the plumage of birds. For the first purjDOse it is mixed with water in sufficient quantity to make it of the consistency of cream, and then applied to the subject with a putty knife as soon as it commences to harden. It hardens within a few minutes and consequently has to be worked verjr rapidly. You can get it at a dealer in paints, a grain store or often at hard- ware stores; call for plaster-of-paris. Putty Is used chiefly for the setting of the eyes in fin- ished specimens of birds. Get it at a paint store. If it gets too soft, so as to be sticky or oily, add whiting; if it gets too hard to be worked, add boil- ed oil. Both of these materials you get at the same place. Sand You can get mica sand or shell sand of your dealer in supplies. Grits, such as grain dealers keep for chickens, makes a good sand with which to cover bases. MHien ground fine it imitates granite very well. 206 Guide to Taxidermy Saws Of course every home or shop should have an ordinarv hand saw. A taxidermist should have a meat saw for cutting through skulls of large ani- mals and a hack saw for sawing off iron rods for mounting large animals. If your work is confined to birds you will need only the hand, wood saw. Salt Common table salt is used for preserving skins after they ha^e been removed from the animal and well cleaned. If well rubbed with salt and dried they will keep indefinitely and can be mounted at any time. Salt and Alum Pickling Bath This bath is used by most taxidermists for pick- ing deer heads and keeping them soft until ready for mounting. It is made as follows: To every gallon of boil- ing water add 3 ounces of alum and eight ounces of table salt. Stir until the ingredients are entirely dissolved then allow it to cool and put in large earthen jars, or if you have a large number of skins, in a lead-lined wooden tank. It should be kept covered as it loses its strength if exposed to the air. Skins kept in this will be in condition to mount at any time, even years after they were taken. Guide to Taxidermy 207 Sawdust This is the best material to use when skinning birds or animals, to take up blood or moisture and prevent soiling of the feathers. Corn meal is best if the specimen is to be eaten, but for other cases it cannot compare with this. Fine hard-wood sawdust is the best; if you can- not get that any fine quality will do. Get it at any wood-working establishment where they use power saws. Scalpel This is the usual surgeons scalpel ; a finely tem- pered blade in a thin ebonjf handle. It is the best possible knife for skinning small or medium sized specimens. Your dealer in supplies will have them. Skinning Knife A much larger knife than the last, used for skin- ning large animals or cutting off the back of the skulls on birds. Your dealer can furnish you with one. Scissors All scissors used by taxidermists should have sharp points on both jaws. A medium sized pair (about 8 in. in length) is suitable for most bird work, and a heavy pair of bone shears is very use- ful for disjointing and cutting through bones of wings and legs. Your dealer can supply both kinds of best quality steel. c^ ^ Tl Q) OJ 3 G O d O "^ •a rn it n1 3 bi) Guide to Taxidermy '-i09 Shellac Is used for painting over stands after they have been sanded. It fixes the sand more firmly in place so it will never fall off. It also brings out the color of paint more strongly and adds gloss if wanted. Stuffing Forceps These forceps have very long jaws and scissor handles. They are useful for putting cotton in the necks of long-necked species. One twelve inches long is the most useful. Your supply dealer keeps them. Tanning Liquors To make, use: Water, 1 gallon; salt, 1 pounds; alum, 1-2 pound; sulphuric acid, 1 ounce. Mix these thoroughly, adding the acid the last. This acid is poison, and burns clothes as well as flesh so be careful in using it. Keep the liquor in closely stoppered bottles. Its use is explained in Chap- ter 5. Tow Is finer than excelsior and is better for making bodies of small birds and for the necks of large ones. Oakum, on account of its tar odor, which is offensive to insects, is better than the common tow, 14 210 Guide to Taxidermy y-^.A \.- but costs a trifle more. You can obtain either of your dealer in supplies. Tweezers These instruments are indispensable for the tax- idermist. A small pair with sharp points is best for picking over and smoothing the plumage of birds. Your dealer can supply you or you can often get them of a hardware dealer. Wax This is very useful for finishing about the eyes and mouths of large animals, and on fish and rep- tiles. The white wax is the best. You can get it of a druggist. For use, melt it in a tin, over a fire or lamp; use a small tin cover and only melt the quantity you wish to use ; when melted stir in a dab of paint, the color that you want. The colors most used are black or vermillion and white. You can apply the melted wax with a small stick, wire or brush. Whiting Is used for hardening putty that is too soft or sticky; in making papier-mache; for mixing with glue-water to make white for winter scenes; and to rub on skins after having tanned them to make them whiter and softer. Any dealer in paints will have this. Guide to Taxidermy 211 Wire See Chapter 11 for sizes of wire for different subjects. Wire Cutters The best kind of cutters that you can get are Parallel Pliers with cutters attached. These give a double leverage so as to cut wire easily and also are the best pliers made. They have an opening through the handle that will allow a No. 10 wire to pass through, so by using a sharp wire it serves as an excellent leg-drill. Your dealer in supplies or a hardware dealer will keep them. NMILO CAT toYSve'ceA evjea axe meoLSV^ted. (\cvoss styles and Sizes of Eyes Guide to Taxidermy 21S CHAP. XI Sizes «nd Colors of Eyes---Wire Glass eyes are used to replace the, natural onea in all mounted work. You can get eyes of any dealer in naturalists supplies. We can recommend the goods sold by those mentioned in the last few- pages in this book. The eyes of different specimens vary very great- ly in size^ color and shapes of the pupil. All birds have a round black pupil and a uniformly colored iris; animals may have a round, elongated or verti- cal pupil and usually have the iris veined; fish have an irregular shaped pupil and the iris gold or silver with darker streaks. For convenience, dealers list eyes under three styles : Style 1 has the pupil round and the iris any plain color or even clear glass. These are used for all birds. Style 2 may have a round or elong- ated pupil and has the iris veined. Style 3 is the same as Style 2 but has white corners. Either 2 or 3 are used for animals. 214 Guide to Taxidermy Aac^ - %o Of course you should note the color of a speci- men's eye before you skin it and get one to corre- spond; we give the following list of eyes suitable for a great many specimens. It will prove of as- sistance if you are mounting from skins and do not know what eyes the bird should have. The diagram gives the sizes and shapes of the diiferent styles. Your dealer will send you a price list. All black eyes are much cheaper and are often used for small birds and squirrels where the natural eyes are dark brown. NO. 1. Brown — Hummingbird; Bats. 2. Brown (or black) — Small Sparrows; Warb- lers ; Chickadees ; Mice. 3. Brown (or black) — Large Sparrows; Vireos. 4 and 5. Brown — Orioles; Bluebirds; Swal- lows; Blackbirds; smallest Sandpipers, Weasel. 6 and 7. Brown — Robins; Jays; Meadowlark; Shrikes; most Woodpeckers; Chipmunk. Red — Red-bellied Woodpecker; Anhinga. Yellow — Least Bittern, Rusty Grackle. 8 or 9- Brown — Crow; Partridge (Quail); Mallard; Scaup; Teal; Widgeon; Sparrow Hawk; Pigeon Hawk; Mink; Red Squirrel; Skunk; Rats. Yellow — Sharp-shinned Hawk; Pileated and Ivory Guide to Taxidermy 215 billed Woodpecker; Hooded Merganser; Redhead (orange) ; Golden-eye; Snowy, Green, and Little Blue Herons; Bufflehead. Red — Glossy Ibis; Can- vas-back; Red-breasted and American Mergansers; Louisiana Heron. Green. — Cormorants. White — White Ibis. 10 or 11. Brown {or hazel) — Broad-wing Hawk; Grouse, Woodcock; Gray and Fox Squir- rels. Yellow — Hawk, Acadian, Long and Short- eared Owls; Cooper Hawk; Bittern. Blue-White — Flamingo. 12 or 13. Brown — Geese; Red-shouldered and adult Red-tail Hawks; Duck and Rough-leg Hawks; Raccoon. Yellow — Young Red-tail Hawk; Herring and Black-backed Gulls. Red — Wood Duck; Wood Ibis; Goshawk. 14 or 15. Brorvn — Golden and young Bald Eagles; Rabbits and Hares. Yellow — Adult Bald Eagle; Screech and Great Gray Owls; Fish Hawk; young Night Heron. Red — Adult Night Herons; Loons. White — White or Brown Pelicans. 16 or 17. Brown — Foxes and small Dogs; Bear. Black (or blue-black) — Barred Owl. 18 to 20. Brown — Dog, Wolf, Grizzly. Yel- low — Horned and Snowy Owls; Lynx. 216 Guide to Taxidermy Coil wWe \si stvft\(;WftYia(^ 22. Small Deer; Panther. 24. Large Deer; Tiger (yellow). 25 to 27. Elk and Moose; Mountain Sheep (pale brownish white) ; Caribou. Approximate Sizes of Wire to Use For taxidermy work you should always use an- nealed wire. If you cannot secure anything but spring wire you can anneal it by heating red hot and allowing it to cool gradually. It will be most convenient to buy wire of your supply dealer, cus and straightened. If you buy it in coils, you can straighten any size up to number 12 as follows: Fasten one end firmly in a vice, or bend it about a hook or a nail driven in the floor; reel off a piece about ten feet long, cut it and grasp the end firmly in the pliers. Pull and as soon as it stretches a bit it will remain straight. It should then be cut into 18 in. lengths as this is the most convenient length to handle. The following list will give you an idea of what sizes you will need. The sizes as given are for the leg wires of birds ; except in the case of long-necked birds the neck wire can be one or two numbers smaller in size than the leg wires. No. 26. This fine wire will come upon a spool; it is used for Hummingbirds, small Warblers and Titmice. Guide to Taxidermy 217 No. 24. You can get this either on a spool or in coil ; use it for Warblers, Sparrows, Vireos and birds of like size. No. 22. Suitable for Finches, Thrushes, Blue- birds, and Flycatchers. No. 20. Small Sandpipers, Kingbirds, Gros- beaks, Orioles. No. 18. Terns, large Sandpipers and Plover, Quail, Jays, Flickers, Robins, Grackles, Thrashers, Rats and Chipmunks. No. 16. Yellowlegs, Black-bellied Plover, Doves, small Owls, Kingfishers, Mink, Red Squir- rel. No. li. Long, Short-eared and Barn Owls, Grebes, small Gulls, Coots, Hooded Merganser, Teal, Bufflehead, Ruddy Duck, Grouse, small Hawks, Crow, Graj^ Squirrel. No. 12. Large Owls, Hawks, Ducks, Gulls, Night Heron, Bittern, Skunk, Muskrat, Opossum, Woodchuck. No. 10. Loon, Goose, Blue Heron, Spoonbill, Osprey, Wood Ibis, Raccoon. No. 8. Flamingo, Pelicans, Eagles, Wild Cat, Fox. jSiKSiSS^^^^^BI^f^^!^iS:S^i3SXSSl3SESi^':3^^S£S3SS^&S^- American Elk (Large mammals are mounted over a papier-mache covered manildn) Guide to Taxidermy 219 No. 6. Swan, Sandhill and Whooping Cranes, Wild Turkeys. 1-4 in. rod for large Dogs, Wolves, Fawns. 1-2 in. rod for Deer, Caribou, Ostrich. 5-8 in. rod for Elk and Moose. If you are in doubt at any time as to what size wire to use for a specimen, use the largest size; do not have your finished specimen "wabbly." Large birds with spread wings should have a size larger wire than the same bird folded; the wings can have a size smaller wire than the legs. The tail wires should always be a couple of sizes smaller than the leg wires. ■^WtA^VloWotil. tV'v^ i'«o^\o«. 220 Guide to Taxidermy CHAP. XH Stands, Stumps, Rock, Foliage Etc. Stands for specimens intended as ornamental or decorative can be made as fancy as you wish. If you are making a scientific collection, either have all the specimens on severely plain mounts or, if you ha\'e plenty of room, try to make your case work so near natural as to defy detection. A large collection of birds looks very well mount- ed on plain T perches for the perching birds, and flat boards for all others; the stands being all uni- form leave nothing to attract the attention from the specimens, which of course are the main ob- jects of a collection. Our preference for a scientific collection is to have each group (male, female and young) on one stand, either a stump or suitable twig rising from a round, white base with no foliage. On following page is a group taken from our collection of Wor- cester County Birds. If you have an abundance Guide to Taxidermy mi of room it is well to incorporate the nest and eggs and natural surroundings for each group. The same is true of a collection of mammals ; either mount them severely plain or take the space to properly represent the group of each species with its surroundings. T Perches. — These are the simplest forms of stands. You can easily make them out of round doweling and pine stock of thickness to correspond to the size. The method of construction can be plainly seen on the marginal sketches opposite this. These can be left in a rough state for temp- orary perches or can be finished a dead white color for museum purposes. Turned T Perches. — These are turned, usually out of hard woodj, on a lathe and finished with shel- lac and oil at the same time. These make excellent stands for hawks and owls, and are often used on birds for house decoration rather than the natural stumps. The sketch opposite this shows a good form for a turned stand. Flat Stands. — Can be made of hard wood and polished or of soft wood either painted or stained. The edges should be beveled. Black-poll Warbler (An excellent method of mounting for museum exhibition) Guide to Taxidermy 223 Artificial Stumps, Rocks and Groundwork. — This work is a good test for your skill and patience. You can make your work crude or a very good imitation of Nature, according to the degree of perfection you have attained or the time you care to put into it. Stumps, rocks and groundwork are made in the same way, the only difference being in the shapes and the final finish. Make the bottom board of soft wood of a proper size to accommodate the specimen for which it is in- tended, and bevel the edges. If the feet of your specimen are to be upon the top of the rock or stump you must make an upright and crosspiece of wood in the proper place. The marginal sketches opposite illustrate the method of making a stand suitable for an eagle, heron or duck. It has one crosspiece in the middle, this being intended for the reception of the wires in the specimen's legs. Any other prominent elevations may have a block of wood to support the wire mosquito netting that is to be tacked over the frame and along the edges of the base. This frame can be dented to make a rock of any shape or to make an uneven ground. If vou are making a stump, of course the wire will be bent around your upright piece in a cir- cular shape. AvVkSit-*'*^'^ s,^viy«)j. 224 Gt'iDE TO Taxidermy VJW*. %tMM. ^of \ne.. \lo\iY»i)lwi\Vv 4\o^V %\(\\f> Mix a batch of papier-mache (see Chapter 10) and squeeze it into the wire mesh leaving the out- side rough or smooth as your subject may call for. A stump should have a few knots and broken branches fashioned on it with the papier-mache and the whole exterior should be grooved to represent the bark, this being done with a piece of wire or wood. Rockwork may have fine granite or mica sand sprinkled over it and lightly pushed into the papier-mache or it may be painted to imitate rocks after it is dry. A stump may be painted when dry or it may have mosses and litchens glued to it. Artificial Trees and Branches. — We prefer to use natural branches when they can be obtained of the right shape for our needs, but it is often neces- sary to build artificial ones, especially for decora- tive purposes. A tree may be made for a single bird, or as we have often done, it may be made to fill a case six feet in height and to accommodate several hundred birds. We will describe the making of a small branch suitable for a single Bluejay. The sketches oppo- site illustrate the method of making. Bore two awl holes, 3-i in. apart, in the middle of your Guide to Taxidermy 225 beveled base board; take an 18 in. piece of No. 16 wire and bend it back so one arm will be about 5 in. and the other 1 3 ; insert this through the holes in the base from the bottom and twist the wires to- gether above the base for about 3 in., and bend as in Fig. A, twisting a shorter piece of wire on to make the other two branches. Fig. 2 shows the method of winding the tree with strips of cloth and the way to fasten the artificial leaves upon it; the last turn of the cloth about the end of the limb should enclose the wire stem of the leaf and );he cloth be firmly tied to the wire with thread. The trunk of the tree may have to have several strips wound on to make it of a proper size; on large trees, the trunk is usually wound with tow, before using the cloth. At this stage the tree may be painted with glue and covered with ground litchens, or, and this is the better way, you can cover the trunk and larger limbs with papier-mache and when dry, color this to resemble the tree it is in- tended for. Entire collections should never be placed upon these artificial trees as they are suit- able only for commercial or decorative purposes. Artificial Leaves and Ferns. — You can buy these already made of your dealer in naturalists' sup- plies. They come put up in gross lots. If you have StftwA ^iu'v^WA. 15 Deer Head (Mounted very obliquely on a rustic panel) Guide to Taxidermy 227 a couple of varieties of small ferns and some small oak, maple and elm leaves, and perhaps a few aquatic leaves it will answer most requirements that you will have for artificial foliage. Leaves, ferns and grasses can be made out of heavy, starched cloth such as is used for window curtains; cut pieces the exact shape and size you wish the leaves ; glue a piece of No. 26 wire the whole length on the back of the leaf and let it extend beyond to form a stem ; wax the leaf and the wire on the back of it ; by laying the leaf on a soft board you can make the proper creases and veins with a wire or stick; you must now paint the leaf its natural color ; after having been fastened to the branch the wire must also be waxed and painted. Natural Leaves. — Some kinds of leaves can be preserved for case decoration by drying them in a box of sand and painting them their natural colors. These will be very fragile and should not be used except under glass. Dried grasses and rushes, when properly colored make excellent case decorations. Moss. — Lichens and tree mosses of all kinds dry well and can be used either dead color or dyed pale green. Your supply dealer will probably have French moss and dyed lace moss for sale. For case decoration it is well to always have on 228 Guide to Taxidermy hand a supply of dead leaves, chestnut-burs, twigs, etc. Winter Scenes. — After a stump, rock or piece of groundwork is made, as previously described, it can readily be made into a snow scene as follows: — Dissolve 1 ounce of pulverized glue in 1 pint of boiling water and add 4 ounces of whiting. As soon as this is cool it is ready for use; wherever you want snow on the base, paint it with this whiting and glue mixture and then sprinkle on a few flakes of Mica Flakes. The foliage and grasses may also have touches of this snow and you will have a very frosty stand; icicles, made as described in Chapter 10, can be attached to rockwood or stumps. Guide to Taxidermy 229 CHAP. XIII Prices for Mounting Specimens There are no fixed prices for taxidermy work but those of expert taxidermists for the best of work will average about the same all over the country. The following schedule of prices is averaged from ours and other leading taxidermists. We have frequently seen specimens mounted for half these prices or less, but even that was more than they were worth. If you are going to do taxi- dermy, make up your mind to become an expert, do the best work and get paid accordingly. Birds $1.25. — Hummers, Warblers, Sparrows and other birds up to the size of a Bluebird. The same birds with spread wings — $1.50. $1.50. — Jays, Robins, Flickers, Blackbirds, Meadowlark and others of same size. Spread — $1.75. $1.75. — Kingfisher, Sharp-shinned, Sparrow and Pigeon Hawks, Acadian Owl, large Plover, Bob White, Woodcock, Petrel, Common Terns, etc. Spread, $2.00. Moose (A plain, oval, oak shield makes an excellent mounting for any head, and especially for large ones) Guide to Taxidermy 231 $2.00. — Grebe, Guillemot, Coot, Doves and Pig- eons, Screech and Hawk Owls, Paraquets, Pileated Woodpeckers, etc. Spread, $2.25. $2.50. — Puffin, Murre, Laughing and Bonaparte Gull, Green and Little Blue Heron, Spruce Grouse, Cooper and Broad-wing Hawks, etc. Wings spread, $2.75. $3.00. — Kittiwake and Ring-bill Gulls, Green and Blue-wing Teals, Snow and Louisiana Herons, Ptarmigan, Grouse, Red-shouldered Hawk, Long and Short-eared Owls, etc. Wings spread, $3.50. $3.50.— Jaegers, Calif. Gull, Heermann Gull, Caspian Tern, Shearwaters, Anhinga, Shoveller, Ring-neck and Old Squaw Ducks, White and Glos- sy Ibises, Bittern, Night Heron, Prairie Hen and Sharp-tail Grouse, Marsh, Gos, and Red-tail Hawks, Barn and Barred Owls. Wings spread, $4.00. $4.00. — Herring Gull, Crested Cormorants, Mal- lard, Redhead, Canvasback and Scoter Ducks. Spread, $4.50. $5.00. — Loons, Black-backed Gull, Booby Cor- morant, Tropic Birds, Eider Duck, Brant, Spoon- bills, etc. Wings spread, $5.50. $6.00. — Gannet, Brown Pelican, Man-of-war Bird, Geese, Blue Heron, etc. Spread, $6.50. 232 Guide to Taiidermy $10.00. — White Pelican, Eagles, Flamingo. Spread, $12.00. $12.00. — Swan. Animals $1.50. — Mice, Moles, etc. $2.00. — Rats, Chipmunk, Red Squirrel, Weasel. $2.50. — Gray Squirrels. •$4.00. — Woodchuck, Muskrat, Opossum. $8.00 to $12.00.— Coons, Foxes, Wild Cat. $15.00 to $25.00. — Dogs, Coyotes and Wolves. $25.00 to $75.00. — Leopards, Sheep, Goats and Deer. Heads Deer, $10.00 to $15.00; Moose, $25.00 to $35.00; Caribou, $15.00 to $25.00; Elk, $25.00; Sheep and Goats, $15.00 to $25.00. Miscellaneous Fish, from $5.00 up, reckoning about a dollar a pound up to fifteen pounds. Reptiles, from $5.00 up. Guide to Taxidermy 233 CHAP. XIV List of Birds of North America^ together with a fair valuation of the eggs, skins and mounted specimens of each. This list is carefully prepared so that our readers may have a basis for exchange w^ith collectors in other parts of the country. The values as given are for first class specimens ; of course other than first class ones have very little value anyway. The numbers before each name are those given to the different species by the American Ornithologists' Union and should be used in marking eggs. Where these numbers are in brackets, it signi- fies that the bird can hardly be called American, and it has occur- red but once or twice and probably by accident. A star following the price of the egg means that the price is for European collected specimens. In such cases American eggs of the same species would be higher. Eggs Skins Mounted 1 jEchmophorus occidentalis Western Grebe $ .25 $ 2.00 $ 4.50 2 Colymbus holboellii Holbcell's Grebe 50 2.50 5.00 3 Colymbus auritus Horned Grebe 20 1.50 4.00 4 Colymbus nigricollis californicus American Eared Grebe 15 1.50 3.50 5 Colymbus dominicus brachybterus St. Domingo Grebe 85 1.00 3.50 234 Guide to Taxidermy 6 Podilymbus podiceps Pied-billed Grebe $ .10 $ 1.00 $ 3.50 7 Gavia imber Loon 1.50 4.00 8.00 8 Gavia adamsii Yellow-billed Loon 8.00 10.00 15.00 9 Gavia arctica Black-throated Loon 1.50 7.00 12.00 10 Gavia pacifica Pacific Loon 2.00 6.00 10.00 11 Gavia lumme Red-throated Loon 75* 3.00 6.00 12 Lunda cirrhata Tufted PufBn 50 2.50 5.50 13 Fratercula arctica Puffin 20 2.00 5.00 13aFratercula arctica naumanni Large-billed Puffin 1.00 6.00 9.00 14 Fratercula corniciilata Horned Puffn 2.00 4.50 8.00 15 Cerorhinca monocerata Rhinoceros Auklet 3.00 6.00 9.00 16 Ptychoramphus aleuticus Cassin's Auklet 1.50 5.00 8.00 17 Cyclorrhynchus psittaculus Paroquet Auklet 3.00 5.00 8.00 18 Simorhynchus cristatellus Crested Auklet 3.00 4.50 7.00 19 Simorhynchus pygmaeus Whiskered Auklet 2.50 4.50 7.50 Guide to Taxidermy 235 20 Simorhynchus pusillus Least Auklet 2.50 4.50 7.00 21 Synthliboramphus antiquus Ancient Murrelet 3.00 5.00 8.00 23 Brachyramphus marmoratus Marbled Murrelet 4.00 4.00 7.00 24 Bracliyramphus kittlitzii Kittlitz's Murrelet 5.00 5.00 8.00 25 Brachyramphus hypoleucus Xantus's Murrelet 5.00 5.00 8.00 26 Brachyramphus craveri Craveri's Murrelet 4.00 5.00 8.00 27 Cepphus grylle Black Guillemot 25 2.00 5.25 28 Cepphus mandtii Mandt's Guillemot 75 3.50 6.75 29 Cepphus columba Pigeon Guillemot 50 2.00 4.50 30 Uria troile Murre 20 2.00 5.00 SOaUria troile californica California Murre 20 2.00 5.00 31 Uria lomvia Brunnich's Murre 25 2.00 5.00 31aUria lomvia arra Pallas's Murre 50 3.00 6.00 32 Alca torda Razor-billed Auk 25 2.00 5.00 S3 Plautus impennis Great Auk 1.00 (cast) 236 Guide to Taxidermy S4 Alle alle Dovekie $ 1.25 $ 1.50 $ 3.25 35 Megalestris skua Skua 50* 3.00 6.50 36 Stercorarius pomarinus Pomarine JsEger 2.50* 3.50 6.00 37 Stercorarius parasiticus Parasitic Jaeger 50* 2.00 5.00 38 Stercorarius longicaudus Long-tailed Jaeger 1.50* 3.50 6.00 39 Paqophila alba Ivory Gull 5.00* 4.50 7.50 40 Rissa tridactyla Kittiwake " 40* 1.50 4.50 40aE,issa tridactyla poUicaris Pacific Kittiwake 1.50 2.50 5.50 41 Rissa brevirostris Red-legged Kittiwake 2.50 6.50 10.00 42 Larus glaucus Glaucous Gull 75* 4.00 7.00 42.1 Larus barrovianus Point Barrow Gull 3.50 5.00 8.00 43 Larus Leucopterus Iceland Gull 1.25* 4.00 8.00 44 Larus glaucescens Glaucous-winged Gull 2.00 3.00 6.50 45 Larus kumlieni Kumlien's Gull 3.50 5.00 8.00 46 Larus nelsoni Nelson's Gull 5.00 8.00 Guide to Taxidermy 237 47 Larus marinus Great Black-backed Gull $ .50 $ 3.00 $ 7.00 48 Larus schistisagus Slaty-backed Gull 5.00 8.00 49 Larus occidentalis Western Giill 20 3.00 6.00 [50] Larus affinis Siberian Gull 8.00 12.00 51 Larus argentatus Herrin Gull 20 2.00 4.00 52 Larus vegse Vega Gull 2.00 2.00 5.00 53 Larus calif ornicus California Gull 20 2.00 5.00 54 Larus delawarensis Eing-billed Gull 20 1.00 3.50 55 Larus brachyrhynchus Short-billed Gull 1.50 3.00 5.00 [56] Larus canus Mew Gull 20 1.75 4.00 57 Larus heermanni Heermann's Gull 5.00 5.00 8.00 58 Larus atricilla Laughing Gull 20 1.50 3.50 59 Larus franklinii Franklin's Gull 35 1.50 3.50 60 Larus Philadelphia Bonaparte's Gull 2.00 1.50 4.00 [60.1] Larus minutus Little Gull 2.50 4.50 238 Guide to Taxidermy 61 Rhodostethia rosea Ross's Gull 62 Xema sabinii Gull-billed Tern $ .20 63 Geloclielidon nilotica Sabine's Gull 3.00 64) Sterna caspia Caspian Tern 50 65 Sterna maxima Royal Tern 40 66 Sterna elegans Elegant Tern *. 5.00 67 Sterna sandvicensis acu flavida Cabot's Tern 40 [68] Sterna trudeaui Trudeau's Tern 69 Sterna forsteri Forster's Tern .10 70 Sterna hirundo Common Tern 10 71 Sterna paradisaea Arctic Tern 10 72 Sterna dougalli Roseate Tern 15 73 Sterna aleutica Aleutian Tern 2.00 74 Sterna antillarum Least Tern 20 75 Sterna fuliginosa Sooty Tern 25 4.00 ; $ 6.50 1.00 3.00 5.00 8.00 2.00 4.50 3.00 5.00 8.00 10.00 1.50 4.00 5.00 8.00 1.00 3.00 1.00 3.00 1.00 3.00 1.25 3.50 3.00 5.00 1.00 3.00 2.50 4.50 Guide to Taxidermy 239 [76] Sterna anaethetus Bridled Tern $ 1.00 $ 3.00 $ 5.50 77 Hydrochelidon nigra surinamensis Black Tern 10 1.00 3.00 [78] Hydrochelidon leucoptera White-winsfed Black Tern 50* 2.00 4.00 79 Anous Stolidus Noddy 50 3.00 5.00 80 Rynehops nigra Black Skimmer 15 1.00 3.00 81 Diomedea nigripes Black-footed Albatross 5.00 10.00 18.00 82 Diomedea albatrus Short-tailed Albatross 5.00 10.00 18.00 [83]Thalassogeron culminatus Yellow-nosed Albatross 3.00 10.00 20.00 84 Phoebetria fuliginosa Sooty Albatross 3.00 10.00 18.00 [85]Ossifraga gigantea Giant Fulmar 5.00 10.00 15.00 86 Fulmarus glacialis Fulmar 75* 4.50 8.00 86aFulmarus glacialis minor Lesser Fulmar 4.00 8.00 86bFulmarus glacialis glupischa Pacific Fulmar 2.00 5.00 9-00 86cFulmarus glacialis rodgersii Rodger's Fulmar 2.50 6.00 12.00 87 Fulmarus glacialoides Slender-billed Fulmar 10.00 14.00 240 Guide to Taxidermy 88 PufEnus borealis Cory's Shearwater $ 5.00 $ 8.00 89 Puffnus major Greater Shearwater $ 3.00 2.50 6.00 90 Puffinus puffinus Manx Shearwater 1.00 S.OO 5.50 91 Puffinus creatopus Pink-footed Shearwater 92 Puffinus auduboni Audubon's Shearwater 1.00 4.00 7.00 93 Puffinus opisthornelas Black-vented Shearwater 2.50 4.00 7.00 94 Puffinus fuliqinosus Sooty Shearwater 3.00 4.00 7.00 95 Puffinus griseus Dark-bodied Shearwater 96 Puffinus tenuirostris Slender-billed Shearwater [97] Puffinus cinereus Black-tailed Shearwater [98]^strelata hasitata Black-caped Petrel [99]-^strelata scalaris Scaled Petrel 100 iEstrelata fisheri Fisher's Petrel [101]Bulweria bulweri Bulwer's Petrel [102]Daption capensis Pintado Petrel 5.00 8.00 Guide to Taxidermy 241 103 Halocyptena microsoma Least Petrel $ 5.00 $ 8.00 104 Procellaria pelagica Stormy Petrel $ .50 3.00 5.00 105 Oceanodroma furcata Fork-tailed Petrel 2.00 4.00 7.00 106 Oceanodroma leucorhoa Leach's Petrel 20 1.25 3.00 106.1 Oceanodroma macrodactyla Gaudalupe Petrel 107 Oceanodroma melania Black Petrel 108 Oceanodroma homochroa Ashy Petrel 3.00 5.00 8.00 109 Oceanites oceanicus Wilson's Petrel 1.50 3.50 [110]Fregetta grallaria White-bellied Petrel 2.00 3.00 6.00 111 Pelagodroma marina White-faced Petrel 1.50 6.00 9-00 112 Phffithon flavirostris Yellow-billed Tropic Bird 2.50 5.00 10.00 113 Phaethon aethereus Red-billed Tropic Bird 3.00 5.00 10.00 [ll4]Sula cyanops Blue faced Booby 2.00 5.00 10.00 114.lSula nebouxii Blue footed Booby 5.00 7.00 12.00 115 Sula sula Booby 1.75 5.00 10.00 16 242 Guide to Taxidermy llS.lSula brewsteri Brewster's Booby [ll6]Sula piscator Red- footed Booby $ 6.00 $12.00 117 Sula bassana Ganet $ .35 4.00 8.00 118 Anhinga anhinga Anhinga 25 3.50 7.00 119 Phalacrocorax carbo Cormorant .25 3.50 6.50 120 Phalacrocorax dilophus Double-crested Cormorant 25 3.00 6.00 120aPhalacrocorax dilophus floridanus Florida Cormorant 25 2.50 5.50 ]20bPhalacrocorax dilphus cincinatus White-crested Cormorant 25 3.00 6.00 120cPhalacrocorax dilphus albociliatus Farallone Cormorant 25 3.00 6.00 121 Phalacrocorax mexicanus Mexican Cormorant 1.00 3.00 6.00 122 Phalacrocorax penicillatus Brandt's Cormorant 25 3.50 6.00 123 Phalacrocorax pelagicus Pelagic Cormorant 1.00 5.00 9.00 123aPhalacrocorax pelagicus robustus Violet-green Cormorant 1.00 i.OO 7.00 123bPhalacrocorax Delagicas resplendens Baird's Cormorant 25 3.50 7.00 124 Phalacrocorax urile Red-faced Cormorant 1.00 5.00 8.00 Guide to Taxidermy 243 125 Pelecanus erythrorhnchos American White Pelican $ .25 $ 7-00 $15.00 126 Pelecanus fucsus Brown Pelican 20 6.00 12.00 127 Pelecanus calif ornicus California Brown Pelican 20 6.00 12.00 128 Fregata aquilla Man-'o-War Bird 1.00 6.00 12.00 129 Merganser americanus American merganser 1.50 1.75 5.00 130 Merganser serrator Red-breasted Merganser 25 1.50 4.50 131 Lophodytes cucullatus Hooded Merganser 1.50 2.00 5.00 132 Anas boschas Mallard 20 1.75 5.00 133 Anas obscura Black Duck 40 1.75 5.00 134 Anas fulvigula Florida Duck 1.00 2.50 5.00 134aAnas fulvigula maculosa Mottled Duck 1.00 3.00 6.00 135 Chaulelasmus strepera Gadwall 50 2.00 5.00 136 Mareca penelope Widgeon 25* 2.00 5.00 [137]Mareca americana Baldpate 75 2.00 5.00 [138]Nettion carolinesis European Teal 20* 2.00 4.50 244 Guide to Taxidermy 139 Nettion carolinensis Green-winged Teal $ .20 $ 1.25 $ 4.00 140 Querquedula discors Blue-winged Teal 20 1.25 4.00 141 Querquedula cyanoptera ' Cinnamon Teal 20 2.00 5.00 142 Spatula clypeata Shoveller 30 2.00 4.00 143 Dafila acuta Pintail 20* 2.00 5.00 144 Aix sponsa Wood Duck 75 2.50 5.00 [145]Netta rufina Rufous-crested Duck 2.00 2.75 5.00 146 Aythya americana Redhead 35 2.50 5.00 147 Aythya vallisneria Canvas-back 1.25 2.00 5.00 148 Aythya marila nearctica American Scaup Duck 60* 2.00 5.00 149 Aythya affinis Lesser Scaup Duck 75* 2.00 5.00 150 Aythya collaris Ring-necked Duck 1.25 1.75 5.00 151 Clangula clangula americana American Golden-eye 1.25 1.75 5.00 152 Clangula islandica Barrow's Golden-eye 1.00 2.25 5.50 153 Chariotonetta albeola Buffle-head 2.00 1.50 4.00 GuiDK TO Taxidermy 245 154 Hanelda hyemalis Old-squaw $ .40 $ 2.00 $ 5.00 155 Histrionicus histrionicuS Harlequin Duck 1.00* S.OO 6.00 ] 56 Camptolaimus labradorius Labrador Duck 157 Eniconetta stelleri Steller's Duck 5.00 6.00 10.00 158 Arctonetta fischeri Spectacled Elder 2.50 12.00 18.00 159 Somateria mollissima borealis Northern Eider 50 3.50 7-00 160 Somateria dresseri American Eider 20 3.00 7.00 161 Somateria v-nigra Pacific Eider 1.00 4.00 8.00 162 Somateria spectabilis King Eider 1.50 8.0© 12.00 163 Oidemia americana American Scoter 2.00 2.25 5.00 [164] Oidemia fusca Velvet Scoter 50* 2.50 6.00 165 Oidemia deglandi White-winged Scote^ 2.50 2.50 5.50 166 Oidemia perspicillata Surf Scoter 2.50 2.25 5.50 1 67 Erismatura rubida Ruddy Duck 35 1.50 4.50 [l68]Nomonyx dominiscus Masked Duck 246 Guide to Taxidermy J 69 Chen hyperborea Lesser Snow Goose $ l69aChen hyperborean nivalis Greater Snow Goose 169-1 Chen caernlescens Blue Goose ] 70 Chen rossii Ross's Snow Goose [l71]Anser albifrons White-fronted Goose 1.00* JYlaAnser albifrons gambeli Am. White-fronted Goose 1.00* 172 Branta canadensis Canada Goose 1.00 172aBranta canadensis hutchingii Hutchin's Goose 1.50 ]72bBranta canadensis occidentals WHiite-cheeked Goose 2.50 172cBranta canadensis minima Cackling Goose 4.00 173 Branta bernicla Brant 3.50 174 Branta nigricans Black Brant * 3.50 [175] Branta leucopsis Barnacle Goose 1 76 Philacte canagica Emperor Goose 4.00 177 Dendrocygna autumnalis Black-bellied Tree Duck 2.00 $ 4.00 $ 8.00 4.00 8.00 4.00 8.00 6.00 10.00 3.50 8.00 3.50 8.00 3.50 7.00 3.50 8.00 4.50 9.00 6.00 10.00 3.00 6.50 4.00 6.50 3.50 7.00 15.00 20.00 1.75 5.00 Guide to Taxidermy 247 178 Dendrocygna fulva Fulvous Tree-duck $ 2.00 $ 1.75 $ 5.00 [179]01or cygnus Whooping Swan 1.50* 10.00 20.00 180 Olor columbianus Whistling Swan 2.50 7.00 16.50 181 Olor buccinator Trumpeter Swan 4.00 8.00 20.00 182 Phcenicopterus ruber American Elamingo 1.00 15.00 25.00 183 Ajaja ajaja Roseate' Spoonbill 1.00 7-00 10.00 184 Guara alba White Ibis 35 2.00 6.00 [185]Gura rubra Scarlet Ibis 3.00 10.00 15.00 186 Plegadis autumnalis Glossy Ibis 35 3.50 7.00 187 Plegadis guarauna White-faced Glossy Ibis 35 3.50 6.50 188 Tantalus loculator Wood Ibis 35 4.00 9-00 [189]Mycteria americana Jabiru 7.50 10.00 15.00 190 Botaurus lentiginosus American Bittern -L 75 1.50 4.50 191 Ardetta exilis Least Bittern 20 1.25 3.50 191.1 Ardetta neoxena Cory's Least Bittern 1.50 2.50 4.50 248 Guide to Taxidermy 192 Ardea occidentalis Great White Heron $ 1.00 $15.00 $20.00 194 Ardea herodias Great Blue Heron 25 3.00 8.00 194bArdea wardi Ward's Heron 40 5.00 10.00 [1 95] Ardea cinerea European Blue Heron 25 2.50 8.OO 196 Herodias egretta American Egret , 30 3.50 7.00 197 Egretta candidissima Snowy Heron 20 3.50 7.00 198 Dichromanassa rufescens Reddish Egret 20 2.25 6.00 199 Hydranassa tricolor ruficollis Louisiana Heron 10 1.25 4.50 200 Florida coerulea Little Blue Heron 10 1.25 4.50 201 Butorides virescens Green Heron 10 .75 3.00 201aButorides virescens frazari Frazar's Green Heron 202 Xycticorax nycticorax nsevins Black-crowned Night Heron 10 1.50 4.50 203 Nycticorax violasceous Yellow-crowned Night Heron. . . . .20 2.50 5.00 204 Grus americana Whooping Crane 3.00 18.00 25.00 205 Grus canadensis Little Brown Crane 5.00 6.00 10.00 Guide to Taxidermy 249 nod Grus mexicana Sandhill Crane $ 3.00 $ 6.00 $10.00 207 Aramus giganteus Limpkin 75 3.50 6.00 i?08 Rallus elegans King Rail 20 1.50 3.50 209 Rallus beldingi Belding's Rail 210 Rallus obsoletus California Clapper Rail 35 2.00 4.00 211 Rallus crepitans Clapper Rail 10 1.00 3.00 211aRallus crepitans saturatus Louisiana Clapper Rail 35 1.50 3.50 211cRallus longirostris caribaeus ' Carribean Clapper Rail 75 3.00 5.00 211.1 Rallus scottii Scott's Rail 1.50 3.00 212 Rallus virginianus Virginia Rail 20 .60 2.50 [213]Porzana porzana Spotted Crake 30* 1.60 3.50 214 Porzana Carolina Sora 10 .40 2.00 215 Porzana noveboracensis Yellow Rail 3.00 3.50 5.00 216 Porzana jamaicensis Black Rail 3.00 3.00 5.0O 2l6aPorzana jamaicensis coturniculus Farallone Rail 3.00 5.00 7.00 250 Guide to Taxidermy [217]Crex crex Corn Crake $ .20 $ 1.25 $ S.50 218 lonoris martinica Purple Gallinule 25 1.50 3.50 219 Gallinula galeata Florida Gallinule 10 .75 2.75 [220]Fulica atra European Coot 15* 1.25 3.50 221 Fulica aniericnna American Coot 10 1.00 3.50 222 Crymaphilus fulicarius Red Phalarope 1.50 3.50 5.00 223 Phalaropus lobatus Northern Phalarope 75 1.50 3.00 224 Phalaropus tricolar Wilson's Phalarope 75 .75 2.50 225 Recurvirostra americana American Avocet 50 1.25 3.50 226 Himantopus mexicanus Black-necked Stilt 50 1.50 3.50 [227]Scolopax rusticola European Woodcock 1.75* 1.50 3.50 228 Philohela minor American Woodcock 1.00 1.50 3.50 [229]Gallinago gallinago European Snipe 35* 1.25 2.75 230 Gallinago delicata Wilson's Snipe 1.50 .75 2.25 231 Macrorhamphus griseus Dowitcher 2.50 1.00 3.00 Guide to Taxidermy 251 232 ^lacrorhamphus scolopaceus Long-billed Dowitcher $ 2.50 $ 1.00 $ 3.00 233 Micropalama himantopus Stilt Sandpiper 3.00 1.25 3.00 234 Tringa canutus Knot 5.00 1.00 3.00 235 Arquatella maritima Purple Sandpiper 2.00 .60 2.00 236 Arquatella couesi Aleutian Sandpiper 3.00 2.50 4.00 287 Arquatella ptiloenemis Pribilof Sandpiper 3.00 2.50 4.00 238 Actodromas acuminata Sharp-tailed Sandpiper 6.00 3.50 5.00 239 Actodromas maculata Pectoral Sandpiper 2.00 .50 2.00 240 Actodromas fuscicollis White-rumped Sandpiper 3.00 .75 2.75 241 Actodromas bardii Baird's Sandpiper 2.00 1.00 2.75 242 Actodromas minutilla Least Sandpiper 2.00 .30 2.00 [242.1] Actodromas damancensis Long-toed Stint 5.00 2.00 4.00 [243]Pelida alpina Dunlin 35* 1.50 3.50 243aPelida alpina pacifica Red-backed Sandpiper 3.00 .75 2.50 244 Erotia ferruginea Curlew Sandpiper 5.00 1.50 3.50 2 5 '2 Guide to Taxidermy [245]Eurynorhynchus pygmseus Spoon-bill Sandpiper 246 Ereunetes pusillus Semipaumated Sandpiper $ 3.00 $ .10 $ 2.50 247 Ereunetes occidentalis Western Sandpiper 2.00 1.00 2.50 248 Calidris arenaria Sanderling .75 2.25 249 Limosa fedoa :\Iarbled Godwit 1.25 1.50 3.25 250 Limosi lapponica baueri Pacific Godwit 3.00 1.50 7.00 251 Limosa haemastica Hiidsonian Godwit 2.50 1.75 3.50 [252] Limosa limosa Black-tailed Godwit 3.00 1.50 3.50 [253]Totanus nebularius Grt-eii-shank 2.50* 2.00 4.50 254 Tot'iius melanolecus Greater Yellow-legs 5.00 1.00 3.00 255 Totanus flavipes Yellow-legs 2.50 .75 2.50 256 Heledromas salitarius Solitiry Sandpiper 1.00 .75 2.00 256aHeledromas solitarius einnamomeus West. Solitary Sandpiper 5.00 1.00 .S.OO 257 Heledromas ochorpus Green Sandpiper 2.00''' 2.00 4.00 258 Symphemia semipalmata Wallet . .10 1.50 1.50 Guide to Taxidermy 253 258aSymphemia semipalmata inornata Western Willet $ .50 $ 1.50 $ 4.50 259 Heteractitis incanus Wandering Tatler 5.00 2.50 4.50 [260]Pavoncella pugnax RufF .20* 1.50 4.00 261 Bartramia longicauda Bartramian Sandpiper 35 .75 2.75 262 Tryngites subruficoUis BufF-breasted Sandpiper 3.00 1.00 2.75 263 Actitis macularia Spotted Sandpiper 15 .40 2.00 264 Numenius longirostris Long-billed Curlew 1.00 1.50 S.50 265 Numenius hudsonicus Hudsonian Curlew 3.00 1.50 3.50 266 Numenius borealis Eskimo Curlew 2.00 2.00 4.00 [267] Numenius phseopus Whimbrel 35* 1.50 4.50 [268] Numenius tahitiencis Bristle-thighed Curlew [269]Vanelus vanellus Lapwing 15* 1.50 3.00 270 Squatarola squatarola Black-bellied Plover 4.00 2.00 4.00 [271]Cliaradrius apricarius Golden Plover 40* 2.00 4.00 272 Charadrius dominicus American Golden Plover 2.00 2.50 4.50 254 Guide to Taxidermy 272aCharadrius dominicus fulvus Pacific Golden Plover $ 2.00 $ 3.00 $ 5.00 273 Oxyechus vociferus Kildeer 20 .50 2.00 274 JEgialitis semipalmata Semipalmated Plover 1.00 .40 2.50 275 jEgialitis hiaticula Ring Plover 20* 1.00 2.50 [276]jEgialitis dubia Little Ring Plover 20* 1.25 2.50 277 jEgialitis meloda Piping Plover 75 1.00 3.00 277ajEgialitis meloda circumcincta Belted Piping Sandpiper 75 1.00 3.00 278 jEgialitis nivosa Snowy Plover 50 1.00 3.50 [279].iEgialitis mongola ' Mongolian Plover 3.00 3.00 5.00 280 jEgialitis ■wilsonia Wilson's Plover 25 .50 2.50 281 Podasocys mountanius Mountain Plover 1.00 1.00 3.00 282 Aphriza virgata Surf Bird 2.50 5.00 283Arenarian interpres Turnstone 2.00 1.00 3.00 284 Arenaria melanocephala Black Turnstone 3.00 1.50 3.50 [285]H8ematopus ostralegus Oyster-catcher 25* 1.50 4.00 Guide to Taxidermy 255 286 Haematopus palliatus American Oyster-catcher $ .75 $ 1.50 $ 4.00 286.lTaematopus frazari Frazar's Oyster-catcher 287 Hsematopus bachmani Black Oyster-catcher 1.75 3.00 5.50 [288]Jacana spinosa Mexican Jacana 2.50 1.50 3.50 289 Colinus virginianus Bob-white 10 1.00 2.50 289aColinus virginianus floridanus Florida Bob-white 10 1.00 2.75 289bColinus virginianus texanus Texan Bob-white 10 1.60 4.00 291 Colinus ridgwayi Masked Bob-white 10.00 13.00 292 Oreortyx pictus Mountain Partridge 1.00 1.50 3.50 292aOreortyx pictus pluniiferus Plumer Partridge 75 1.50 3.75 292bOreortyx pictus confinus San Pedro Partridge 2.00 2.50 5.00 29s Callipepla squamata Scaled Partridge 75 1.00 2.75 293aCallipepla squamata castanogastris Chestnut-bellied Scaled Partridge 35 .75 2.50 294 Lophortyx californica California Partridge 10 1.00 2.75 294aLophortyx californica vallicola Valley Partridge 20 .75 2.50 256 Guide to Taxidermy 295Lophortvx gambelii Gambel's Partridge $ .25 $ 1.50 $ 3.00 296 Cyrtonyx montezumse mearnsi Mearns' Partridge 200 5.00 7.00 297 Dendrapus obscurus Dusky Grouse 1.50 2.00 5.00 297aDendragapus obscurus fulginosus Sooty Grouse 85 2.00 5.00 297mDendragapus obscurus richardsonii Richardson's Grouse 1.50 4.00 6.50 298 Dendragapus canadensis Canada Grouse 1.50 1.25 3.50 299 Dendragapus franklinii Franklin's Grouse 3.50 2.50 5.00 300 Bonasa umbellus RufFed Grouse 30 1.25 4.00 300aBonasa umbellus togata Canadian Ruffed Grouse 40 1.25 4.00 SOObBonasa umbellus umbelloides Gray Ruffed Grouse 75 3.00 5.50 SOOcBonasa umbellus sabini Oregon Ruffed Grouse 40 1.25 3.00 301 Lagopus lagopus Willow Ptarmigan 1.00 1.25 3.00 301aLagopus lagopus alleni Allen's Ptarmigan 3.00 5.00 302 Lagopus rupestris Rock Ptarmigan 50* 3.00 5.00 302aLagopus rupestris reinhardii Reinhard't Ptarmigan 2.50 3.00 5.00 Guide to Taxidermy 257 SOSbLagopus rupestris nelsoni Nelson's Ptarmigan 302cLagopus rupestris atkhensis Turner's Ptarmigan 303 Lagopus welchi Welch's Ptarmigan 304 Lagopus leucurus White-tailed Ptarmigan $ 5.00 $ 3.00 $ 5.00 305 Tympanuchus americanus Prairie Hen 20 1.25 3.50 305aTympanuchus americanus attwateri "Atwater's Prairie Hen 75 3.00 5.00 306 Tympanuchus cupido "Heath Hen 100.00 100.00 307 Tympanuchus pallidictinctus Lesser Prairie Hen 1.50 2.25 5.00 308 Pediocsetes phasianellus Sharp-tailed Grouse 2.50 1.25 4.00 SOSaPediocaetes phasianellus columbianus Colu. Sharp-tailed Grouse 50 1.50 4.00 SOSbPediocsetes phasianellus campestris Prairie Sharp-tailed Grouse 50 3.00 5.00 309 Centrocercus urophasianus Sage Grouse 50 8.00 7.00 310 Meleagris gallopavo Wild Turkey 75 8.00 16.00 310aMelagris gallopavo mexicana Mexican Turkey 1.00 8.00 16.00 310bMeleagris gallopavo osceola Florida Wild Turkev 2.00 12.00 20.00 17 258 Guide to Taxidermy SlOcMeleagros gallopavo intermedia Rio Grande Turkey $ 2.00 $10.00 $18.00 311 Ortalis vetula maccalli Chachalaca 73 1.00 3.50 312 Columba fasciata Band-tailed Pigeon 1.00 1.50 3.50 3 12aColumba' fasciata vioscae Viosca's Pigeon 3.00 3.00 5.00 313 Columba flavirostris Bed-billed Pigeon 1.00 1.25 3.00 Sldt Columba leucocephala White-crowned Pigeon 1.00 3.00 5.00 315 Ectopistes migratorius Passenger Pigeon 2.00 5.00 8.00 316 Zenaidura macroura Mourning Dove 05 .50 2.50 317 Zenaida zenaida Zenaida Dove 1.00 3.50 5.50 318 Laptotila fulventris brachyptera White-fronted Dove ." 35 1.25 3.25 319 Melopelia leucoptera White-winged Dove 20 1.00 3.00 320 Columbigallina passerina terrestris Ground Dove 30 .75 2.75 320aColumbigallina passerina pallescens Mexican Ground Dove 50 1.00 2.75 321 Scardafella inca Inca Dove 75 1.50 8.00 [322]Geotrygon chrysia Key West Quail-dove 2.00 5.00 7.00 Guide to Taxidermy 259 [332.1 jGeotrygon montana Ruddy Quail-dove [323]Starceenas cyanocephala Blue-lieaded Quail-dove 32i Gymnogyps californianus California Vulture $100.00 $4-0.00 $55.00 325 Cathartes aura Turkey Vulture 50 2.50 6.00 326 Catliarista urubu Black Vulture 50 2.50 6.00 327 Elanoides forficatus Swallow-tail Kite 10.00 4.00 8.00 328 Elanus leucurus White-tailed Kite 3.00 1.50 4.50 329 Ictinia mississippiensis Mississippi Kite 4.00 3.50 6.50 330 Rostrhamus sociabilis Everglade Kite 10.00 6.00 10.00 331 Circus hudsonius Marsh Hawk 35 1.50 4.50 332 Accipiter velox Sharp-shinned Hawk 1.00 .75 3.00 333 Accipiter cooperi Cooper's Hawk 30 1.00 4.00 334 Accipiter atriscapillus American Goshawk 2.00 3.00 6.00 334aAccipiter atricapillus striatulus Western Goshawk 3.00 3.00 6.00 335 Parabuteo unicintus harrisi Harris's Hawk 50 2.00 5.00 260 Guide to Taxidermy [336]Buteo buteo European Buzzard $ -35 337 Buteo borealis Red-tailed Hawk 50 337aButeo borealis Kriderii Krider's Hawk 1.50 337bButeo borealis calurus Western Red-tail 50 337bButeo borealis harlani Harlan's Hawk 5.00 339 Buteo lineatus Red-shouldered Hawk 35 SSQaButeo lineatus alleni Fla. Red-shouldered Hawk 50 339 Buteo lineatus elegans Red-bellied Hawk 50 34)0 Buteo abbreviatus Zone-tailed Hawk 3.00 341 Buteo albicaudatus sennetti White-tailed Hawk 50 342 Buteo swainsoni Swainson's Hawk 50 343 Buteo pl.itypterus Broad-winged Hawk 1.00 344 Buteo brachyurus Short-tailed Hawk 345 Urubitinga anthracina Mexican Black Hawk 5.00 346 Asturina plagiata Mexican Goshawk 2.50 2.00 ! $ 5.00 1.50 5.00 4.00 7.00 1.50 4.00 5.00 8.00 1.50 4.00 1.75 4.00 3.00 6.00 4.00 7.00 2.00 4.50 1.50 4.00 1.50 3.50 6.00 9.00 5.00 8.00 3.00 5.00 Guide to Taxidermy sJSI [347]Archibuteo lagopus Rough-legged Hawk $ .60*$ 2.00 $ 5.00 JJ'iTaAi-chibuteo lagopus sancti-j ohannis Am. Rough-legged Hawk 2.00 2.00 5.00 348 Archibuteo ferrugineus Ferruginous Rough-leg 1.00 3.00 5.00 S49 Aquila chryssetos Golden Eagle 6.00 10.00 20.00 [350]Thrasaetus harpyia Harpy Eagle 6.00 12.00 20.00 [351]Hali8etus albicilla Gray Sea Eagle 2.00* 8.00 15.00 352 HalJEeetus leucocephalus Bald Eagle 3.50 8.00 15.00 353 Falco islandus White Gryfalcon 5.00 15.00 20.00 354 Falco rusticolus Gray Gyrfalcon 6.00 15.00 20.00 354aFalco rusticolus gyrfalco Gyrfalcon 6.00 15.00 20.00 354bFalco rusticolus obsoletus Black Gyrfalcon 10.00 15.00 20.00 355 Falco mexicanus Prairie Falcon 2.00 2.00 5.00 356 Falco peregrinus anatum Duck Hawk 3.00 3.00 5.00 356aFalco peregrinus pealei Peak's Falcon 5.00 10.00 14.00 357 Falco columbarius Pigeon Hawk . .;.; 2.50 1.00 3.00 262 Guide to Taxidermy 357'iFalco columbarius suckleyi Black Merlin $10.00 $ 3.50 .$ 6.50 358 Falco richardsonii Richardson's Merlin 10.00 2.50 5.00 [358.1] Falco regulus Merlin 50* 1.75 4.00 359 Falco rusco coerulessens Aplomado Falcon 4.00 5.00 8.00 [359.1] Falco tonnunculus Kestrel 20* 1.75 4.00 "60 Falco sparverius American Sparrow Hawk 20 .60 2.50 360aFalco sparverius phaloena Desert Sparrow Hawk .20 1.00 2.75 360bFalco sparverius peninsularis , St. Lucas Sparrow Hawk [361 ] Falco dominicensis Cuban Sparrow Hawk 362 Polyborus cheriway Audubon's Caracara 1.00 l..)0 4.00 363 Polyborus lotosus Gaudalupe Caracara 3.00 5.00 7.OO 364 Pandion lialiaetus carolinensis American Osprey ... .50 3.00 6.00 365 Strix pratincola American Barn Owl 30 3.00 5.00 366 Asio wilsonianus American Long-eared Owl 33 1.00 3.00 Guide to Taxidermy 263 368 Syrnium varium " Barred Owl $ 1.00 ^ SGSaSjrrnium varium alleni Florida Barred Owl 1.00 369 Syrnium occidentale " Spotted Owl 5.00 370 Scotiaptex nebulosa Great Gray Owl 10.00 [370a] Scotiaptex lapponica Lapp Owl 3.00* 371 Nyctola tengmalmi richardsoni Richardson's Owl 3.00 372 Nyctala acadia Saw-whet Owl 3.00 373 Megascops asio Screech Owl 40 373a]\fes;aseops asio floridanus Florida Screech Owl 10 373bMegascops asio trichopsis Texas Screech Owl 40 373cMee'ascops asio bendirei California Screech Owl 40 373dMea'ascops asio kennicottii Kennicott's Screech Owl 1.00 373eMegascops asio maxwellise Rocky Mt. Screech Owl 75 373fMeji;ascops asio cineraceus Mexican Screech Owl 1.50 373gMegascops asio aikeni Aiken's Screech Owl 1.00 $ 3.00 1.50 3.50 6.00 10.00 8.00 10.00 8.00 12.00 3.00 5.00 1.00 2.75 1.00 2.75 1.25 3.00 1.00 3.00 1.50 3.50 2.00 4.50 2.00 3.75 2.00 3.50 264 Guide to Taxidermy 373hMegascops asio macfarlanei MacFarlane's Screech Owl 374 Megascop's flammeola Flammulated Screech Owl $ 2.75 $ 2.00 $ 4.50 374a!Megascops flammeola ihahoensis Dwarf Screech Owl c:75 Bubo virginianus Great Horned Owl 1.00 3.00 6.00 ?75aBubo virginianus subarcticus Western Horned Owl 1.00 3.00 6.00 375bBubo virginianus arcticus Arctic Horned Owl 5.00 6.00 10.00 .S7.'")cBubo virginionus saturatus Dusky Horned Owl 3.00 8.00 12.00 376 Nvctea nvctea "Snowv Owl 2.00* 6.00 10.00 [377]Surnia ulula Hawk Owl 1.00* 3.00 5.00 377aSurnia ulula caparoch Hawk Owl 1.00* 3.00 5.00 377aSurnia ulula caparoch American Hawk Owl 3.00 3.00 5.00 378 Speotyto cuuicularia hypogaea Burrowing Owl . . ." 15 1.00 3.00 378aSpeolyto cunicularia floridana Florida Burrowing Owl 35 3.00 5.00 379 GKlaucidium gnoma Pygmy Owl 2.50 2.50 4.00 379aGlaucidium gnoma californicum California Pygmy Owl 2.50 2.50 4.00 379.lGlaucidium hoskinsii Hoskin's Pygmy Owl 10.00 12.00 Guide to Taxidermy 265 380 Glaucidium phalanoides Ferruginous Pygmy Owl $ 2.25 $ 2.00 $ 4.00 381 Micropallas whitneyi Elf Owl '. 1.50 3.00 5.00 382 Conurus carolinensis Carolina Paroquet 10.00 5.00 7-00 [383]Crotophaga ani Ani 1.00 2.00 4.00 384 Crotophaga sulcirostris Road-runner 25 1.00 3.00 386 Coccyzus minor Mangrove Cuckoo 1.00 2.50 4.50 [386a] Coccyzus minor maynardi Maynard's Cuckoo 3.00 4.50 387 Coccyzus americanus Yellow-billed Cuckoo 10 .60 2.50 387aCoccyzus americanus occidentalis California Cuckoo 20 .75 2.50 388 Coccyzus erythropMhalmus Bl'ack-billed Cuckoo 10 .50 2.50 388.lCuculus canorus telephonus [389]Trogon ambiguus Coppery-tailed Trogan 2.00 5.00 7.00 390 Ceryle alcyon Belted Kingfisher 20 .50 2.50 390.1 Ceryle torquata Kinged Kingfisher ^66 Guide to Taxidermy 391 Ceryle cabansi Texan Kingfisher $ 2.00 $ 1.25 $ 3.00 "92 Campephilus principalis Ivory-billed Woodpecker 10.00 15.00 18.00 393 Dryobates villosus Hairy Woodpecker 50 .30 2.00 393aDryobates villosus leucomelus North. Hairy Woodpecker 1.00 .30 2.00 393bDryobates villosus audubonii South. Hairy Woodpecker 1.00 .30 2.00 393cDryobates villosus harrisii Harris's AA'oodpecker 1.00 .75 2.50 394 Dryobates pubescens Downy Woodpecker 20 .25 1.50 S94aDryobates pubescens gairdneri Gairdner's Woodpecker .50 .75 2.50 394bDryobates pubescens nomorus Batcheldor's Woodpecker ... 1.00 1.00 3.00 395 Dryobates borealis Red-cockaded Woodpecker 1.50 .50 2.00 396 Dryobates scalaris bairdii Baird's Woodpecker 1.00 .50 2.50 396aDryobates scalaris lucasanus Saint Lucas Woodpecker 1.50 3.00 397 Dryobates nuttallii Nuttall's Woodpecker 1.00 1.50 3.00 398 Dryobates arizonse Arizona Woodpecker 2.00 2.00 3.00 Guide to Taxidermy 267 399 Xenopicus albolarvatus White-headed Woodpecker $ 1.00 $ 1.50 $ 3.00 400 Picoides americanus Arctic Three-toed Woodpecker 1.50 .75 2.75 ■iOlaPicoides americanus alascensis Alask. Three-toed Woodpecker 4()lbPicoides americanus dorsalis Alpine Three-toed Woodpecker 2.00 4.00 402 Sphyrapicus varius Yellow-bellied Sapsucker 25 .40 2.00 402aSphyrapicus varius nuchalis Red-naped Sapsucker 1.00 .75 2.50 403 Sphyrapicus ruber Red-breasted Sapsucker 1.50 1.00 2.50 404 Sphyrapicus thyroideus Williamson's Sapsucker 1.00 1.50 3.00 405 Ceophloes pileatus Pileated Woodpecker 1.00 1.00 3.00 406 Melanerpes formicivorus bairdi Californian Woodpecker .40 .50 2.00 407a]Melanerpes formicivorous augustifrons Narrow-fronted Woodpecker 1.25 2.75 408 Asyndesmus torquatus Lewis' Woodpecker 36 1.00 3.75 409 Centurus carolinus Red-bellied Woodpecker 10 .40 2.00 268 Guide to Taxidermy 410 Centurus aurifrons Golden-fronted Woodpecker $ .50 $ .50 $ 2.00 411 Centurus uropygialis Gila Woodpecker 1.50 1.00 2.75 tl2 Colaptes auratus Flicker 05 .40 2.00 413 Colaptes cafer coUaris Red-shafted Flicker 10 .50 2.00 413aColaptes cafer saturatior Xorthwestern Flicker 25 .60 2.00 414 Colaptes chrysoides Gilded Flicker 50 1.50 3.00 415 Colaptes rufipileus Gaudalupe Flicker 416 Antrostomus carolinensis Chuck-will's Widow 1.50 2.00 4.00 417 Antrostomus viciferus Whip-poor-will 1.00 1.00 2.50 417aAntrostomus vociferus macromystax Stephen's Whip-poor-will 4.00 6.00 418 Phalsenoptilus nuttalli Poor-will 2.50 2.00 4.00 418aPhal8enoptilus nuttalli nitidus Frosted Poor-will 3.00 2.00 4.00 418bPhalsenoptilus nuttalli calif ornicus Dusky Poor-will 3.00 2.00 4.00 419 Nyctidromus albicollis merrilli "Merrill's Parauque 2.50 1.50 3.50 420 Chordeiles virginianus ' ' Nighthawk 40 .50 2.00 Guide to Taxidermy 269 420aChordeiles virginianus henryi Western Nighthawk $ .40 $ .50 $ 2.00 420bChordeiles virginianus chapman! Florida Nighthawk 1.00 1.25 2.75 421 Chordeiles texensis Texas Nighthawk 40 .50 2.00 422 Sypseloides niger Black Swift 4.50 6.50 42 S Chsetura pelagica Chimney Swift 10 .50 2.00 424 Chaetura vauxii Xaux's Swift 75 2.00 3.75 425 Aeronautes melanoleucus White-throated Swift 2.50 3.75 426 Eugenes fulgens Rivoli Hummingbird 3.00 4.50 427 Coeligena clemancise Blue-throated Hummingbird 3.00 4,50 428 Troehilus colubris Ruby-throated Hummingbird 50 1.00 2.00 429 Troehilus alexandri Black-chinned Hummingbird 50 1.00 2.00 430 Calypte costse Costa's Hummingbird 75 1.00 2.00 431 Calypte anna Anna's Hummingbird 50 .75 2.00 431.lSelasphorus floresii Floresi's Hummingbird 432 Selasphorus platycercus Broad-tailed Hummingbird 1.00 1.25 2.50 270 Guide to Taxidermy 4 33 Selaspliorus rufus Rufous Hummingbird $ .75 $ .75 $ 2.00 134 Selasphorus alleni Allen's Hummingbird 75 .75 2.00 iSG Stellula calliope Calliope Hummingbird 2.00 1.25 2.50 437 Calothorax lucifer Lucifer Hummingbird 1.50 2.50 438 Amazilis tzacatl Reiffer's cerviniventris BufF-bellied Hummingbird 1.50 1.00 2.00 440 Bas ilinna xantusi Xantus's Hummingbird 3.00 4.50 440 Basilinna xantusi White-eared Hummingbird 441 lache latirostris Broad-billed Hummingbird 1.50 2.50 441.lPlatypsaris albiventris Xantus's Becard 3.00 4.50 [442]]Muscivora tj'rannus Ford-tailed Flycatcher 1.50 2.30 443 Muscivora forficatus Scissor-tailed Flycatcher 10 .60 2.00 444 Tyrannus tyrannus "Kingbird 05 .30 1.75 445 Tyrannus dominiscensis Gray Kingbird 50 .50 3.00 446 Tyrannus melancholicus couchii Couch's Kingbird 1.00 .75 2.00 Guide to Taxidermy 271 447 Tyrannus verticalis Arkansas Kingbird $ .05 $ .45 $ 1.75 448 Tyrannus vociferans Cassin's Kingbird 25 .50 2.25 149 Pitangus derbianus Derby Flycatcher 1.50 3.00 4.50 [450]Myiozetetes texensis Giraud's Flycatcher 1.00 1.25 3.00 451 Myiodj'nastes luteiventris Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher 1.00 3.00 4.00 452 Myiarchus crinitus Crested Flycatcher .10 .30 1.50 453 Myiarchus mexicanus Mexican Crested Flycatcher 40 .30 2.00 453aMyiarchus mexicanus magister Arizona Crested Flycatcher 1.00 1.25 2.50 454 ^Myiarchus cinerascens Ash-throated Flycatcher 25 .40 1.50 454a;Myiarchus cinerascens nuttingi Nutting's Flycatcher [455] Myiarchus lawrenceii Lawrence's Flycatcher 1.00 2.00 3.00 455aMyiarchus lawrenceii olivascens Olivaceous Flycatcher 1.50 3.00 456 Sayornis phoebe Phoebe 05 .25 1.50 457 Sayornis saya Say's Phoebe 15 .35 1.50 458 Sayornis nigricans iSlack Phoebe 15 .50 1.75 272 Guide to Taxidermy 459 Nuttalornis borealis Olive-sided Flycatcher $ 1.50 $ .70 $ 2.00 460 Contopus pertinax Coues's Flycatcher 2.00 3.50 461 Contopus virens Wood Pewee 10 .25 1.50 462 Contopus richardsonii Western Wood Pewee 20 .30 1.50 462aContopus richardsonii peninsulse Large-billed Wood Pewee 463 Empiodonax flavicentris Yellow-bellied Flycatcher 1.00 .35 1.50 464 Empiodonax difficilis Western Flycatcher 20 .35 1.50 465 Empdonax virescens St. Lucas Flycatcher 4.00 6.00 465 Empidonax virescens Green-crested Flycatcher 20 .35 1.50 466 Empiodonax traillii Traill's Flycatcher 25 .60 2.00 466aEmpiodonax traillii alnorum Alder Flycatcher 15 .35 1.50 467 Empiodonax minimus Least Flycatcher 15 .25 1.50 468 Empidonax hammondi Hammond's Flycatcher 75 .75 2.00 469 Empidonax wrightii Wright's Flycatcher 1.00 .50 2.00 469-1 Empidonax grieseus Gray Flycatcher Guide to Taxidermy 273 [4<70]Empidonax fulvifrons Fulvous Flycatcher ■iTOaEmpidonax fulvifrons pygmaeus Buff-breasted Flycatcher $ $ 2.50 $ 4.00 471 Pyroscephalus rubineus mexicanus Vermilion Flycatcher 1.00 .60 1.75 472 Ornithion imberbe Beardless Flycatcher 75 3.00 5.00 172aOrnithion imberbe ridgwayi Ridgway's Flycatcher 3.00 5.00 [473]Alauda arvensis Skylark 10 .60 2.00 474 Octocoris alpestris Horned Lark 1.00 .40 1.75 474aOctocoris alpestris leucolsema Pallid Horned Lark 50 .50 2.00 474bOtocoris alpestris practicola Prairie Horned Lark 15 .50 2.00 474cOtocoris alpestris arenicola Desert Horned Lark 25 .40 2.00 474dOcocoris alpestris giraudi Texan Horned Lark 20 .50 2.00 474eOtocoris alpestris chrysolsema Mexican Horned Lark 35 .50 2.00 474fOtocoris alpestris rubsea Ruddy Horned Lark 35 .50 2.00 474gOtocoris alpestris strigata Streaked Horned Lark 75 .50 1.75 474hOtocoris alpestris adusta Scorched Horned Lark 1.00 1.00 3.00 18 274 Guide to Taxidermy 474iOtocoris alpestris merrilli Dusky Horned Lark $ .75 $ 1.00 $ 2.75 474jOtocoris alpestris pallida Sonoran Horned Lark 475 Pica pica hudsonica American Mfigpie 05 .75 2.50 476 Pica nuttalli Yellow-billed Magpie 35 1.00 3.00 477 Cyanocitta cristata Blue Jay 05 .30 1.50 477aCyanocitta cristata florincola "Florida Blue Jay 10 .35 1.50 478 Cyanocitta stelleri Steller's Jay 1.00 1.75 3.00 478aCyanocitta stelleri frontalis "Blue-fronted Jay 75 .60 2.00 478bCyanocitta stelleri diademata Long-crested Jay 1.50 .60 2.50 478cCyanocitta stelleri annectens Black-headed Jay 1.50 .60 2.50 479 Aphelocoma cyanea Florida Jay 75 .50 2.00 480 Aphelocoma woodhousei Woodhouse's Jay 1.00 1.50 3.00 480.lAphelocoma cyanotis Blue-eared Jay 491 Aphelocoma californica California Jay 20 .50 2.00 48 la Aphelocoma californica hypoleuca Xantus's Jay Guide to Taxidermy 275 481bAphelocoma calif ornica obscura Belding's Jay 481.1 Apheloeoma insularis Santa Cruz Jay 482 Apheloeoma siberi arizonee Arizona Jay $ 1.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.25 483 Xanthoura luxuosa Green Jay 1.25 .60 2.25 483 Xanthoura luxuosa Green Jay 1.25 .60 2.25 484 Perisoreus canadensis Canada Jay 1.50 .60 2.50 484aPerisoreus canadensis capitalis Rocky Mountain Jay 1.00 2.50 484bPerisoreus canadensis fumifrons Alaskan Jay 2.00 3.50 484cPerisoreus canadensis nigricapillus Labrador Jay 1.50 3.50 485 Perisoreus obscurus Oregon Jay 2.50 2.00 3.50 486 Corvus corax sinuatus American Raven 1.50 3.00 6.00 486aCorvus corax principalis Northern Raven 1.50 3.00 6.00 487 Corvus crjrptoleucus White-necked Raven 50 3.00 5.50 488 Corvus americanus American Crow 06 .75 3.00 488aCorvus americanus floridanus Florida Crow 25 1.00 3.50 489 Corvus caurinus Northwest Crow 25 1.25 4.00 276 Guide to Taxidermy 490 Corvus ossifragus Fish Crow $ .25 $ 1.00 $ 3.50 491 Nucifraga Columbiana Clarke's Nutcracker 2.50 1.50 3.00 492 Cyanocephalus cyanocephalus Pinon Jay 50 1.00 2.50 [493]Sturnus vulgaris Starling 10 .50 2.00 494 Dolichonynx orzivorus Bobolink 25 .30 1.50 495 Molothrus ater Cowbird 05 .35 1.75 496 Callothrus robustus Bronzed Cowbird W .50 1.75 497 Xanthocephalus xanthocephalus Yellow-headed Blackbird 05 .40 1.75 498 Agelaius phoeniceus Red-winged Blackbird 05 .25 1.50 498aAgelaius phoeniceus sonoriensis Sonoran Red-wing 1.00 2.50 498bAgelaius phaenicus bryanti Bahaman Red-wing 1.00 2.50 499 Agelaius gubernator Cicolored Blackbird 10 .45 2.00 500 Agelaius tricolor Tricolored Blackbird 10 .50 2.00 501 Sturnella magna Meadowlark 10 .50 2.00 Guide to Taxidermy 277 SOlaSturnella magna mexicana Mexican Meadowlark $ .35 $ .75 $ 2.00 SOlbSturnella magna neglecta Western Meadowlark 10 .40 2.00 [502] Icterus icterus Troupial 2.00 3.75 503 Icterus audubonii Audubon's Oriole 2.00 .60 2.00 501 Icterus parisorum Scott's Oriole 1.50 1.50 2.75 505 Icterus cucuUatus Hooded Oriole 50 .50 1.75 505alcterus cucullatus nelsoni Arizona Hooded Oriole 35 .60 1.75 506 Icterus spurius Orchard Oriole 10 .35 1.75 507 Icterus galbula Baltimore Oriole 10 .50 1.75 508 Icterus bullocki Bullock's Oriole 10 .50 1.75 509 Scolecophagus carolinus Rusty Blackbird 1.00 .40 1.75 510 Scolecophagus cyanocephalus Brewer's Blackbird 05 .40 1.75 511 Quiscalus quiscula Purple Grackle 05 .40 1.75 511aQuiscalus quiscula aglaeus Florida Grackle 10 .40 1.75 511bQuiscalus quiscula aeneus Bronzed Grackle 05 .40 1.75 278 Guide to Taxidermy 513 Quiscalus major Boat-tailed Grackle $ .10 $ .50 $ 2.00 514 Hesperiphona vespertina Evening Grosbeak 1.00 1.00 2.25 514aHesperiphona vespertinus montana Western Evening Grosbeak 1.00 1.50 2.75 515 Pinicola enucleator Pine Grosbeak 1.25 .75 2.00 [5l6]Pyrrhula cassini Cassin's Bullfinch 517 Carpodacus purpureus Purple Finch 15 .25 1.50 517aCarpodacus purpureus calif ornicus California Purple Finch 35 .40 1.75 518 Carpodacus cassini Cassin's Purple Finch 1.00 .40 1.75 519 Carpodacus mexicanus frontalis House Finch 05 .40 1.7- 519bCarpodacus mexicanus ruberrimus St. Lucas House Finch 10 .40 1.75 520 Carpodacus amplus Guadalupe House Finch 521 Loxia curvirostra minor American Crossbill 5.00 .35 1.75 521aLoxia curvirostra Strickland! Mexican Crossbill 5.00 .75 2.25 522 Loxia leucoptera White-winged Crossbill 5.00 .60 2.00 523 Leucosticte griseonucha Aleutian Leucosticte 2.50 2.00 3.50 Guide to Taxidermy 279 524 Leucosticte tephrocotis Gray Crowned Leucosticte $ $ 1.00 $ 2.00 524aLeucosticte tephrocotis littoralis Hepburn's Leucosticte 1.25 2.50 525 Leucosticte atrata Black Leucosticte 5.00 7.00 526 Leucosticte australis Brown-capped Leucosticte 1.00 2.50 527 Acanthis hornemannii Greenland Redpoll 1.50 2.50 S.75 527aAcanthis hornemannii exilipes Hoary Redpoll 1.50 2.50 3.75 528 Acanthis linaria Redpoll 35* .25 1.50 528aAcanthis linaria holboellii Holbcell's Redpoll 2.00 3.50 528bAcanthis linaria rostrata • Greater Redpoll 1.00 2.25 529 Astragalinus tristis American Goldfinch 05 .25 1.50 529aAstragalinus tristis pallidus Western Goldfinch 10 .50 1.50 530 Astragalinus psaltria Arkansas Goldfinch 10 .35 1.50 530bAstragalinus psaltria mexicanus Mexican Goldfinch 50 1.50 2.75 531 Astragalinus lawrencei Lawrence's Goldfinch 20 .50 2.00 [532]Spinus notatus Black-headed Goldfinch 1.25 2.50 280 Guide to Taxidermy 533 Spinus pinus Pine Siskin $ 1.00 $ 1.25 $ 2.00 534 Passerina nivalis Snowflake 50* .35 1.50 53'iaPasserina nivalis townsendi Pribilof Snowflake 1.50 .75 2.50 .'J35 Passerina hyperboreus McKaj^'s Snowflake 10.00 10.00 536 Calcarius lapponicus Lapland Longspur 75 .50 1.75 537 Calcarius pictus Smith's Longspur 1.50 .50 2.00 538 Calcarius ornatus Chestnut-collnred Longspur 35 .40 1.50 539 Rliynchophanes mccownii McCowan's Longspur 1.00 .40 2.00 540 Poocaetes gramineus Vesper Sparrow 05 .35 ' 1.35 540aPoocaetes gramineus confinis Western Vesper Sparrow 05 .35 1.50 540bPooc£etcs grammineus affinis Oregon Vesper Sparrow 15 .35 l.,50 541 Passerculus princeps Ipswich Sparrow 25 .50 1.75 542 Passerculus sandwichensis Sandwich Sparrow 2.50 2.00 3.50 542aPasserculus sandwichensis savanna Savanna Sparrow 10 .25 1.50 542bPasserculus sandwichensis alaudinus Western Savanna Sparrow 20 .30 1.50 Guide to Taxidermy 281 r>i2cP,isserculus sandwichensis bryanti Bryant's Marsh Sparrow ." $ 1.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.50 5i'3 Passerculus beldingi Belding's Marsh Sparrow 1.00 1.50 2.75 .044 Passerculus rostratus Large-billed Sparrow 2.50 4.0" 544aPasserculus rostratus guttatus St. Lucas Sparrow 2.50 1.50 2.75 545 Coturniculus bairdii Baird's Sparrow 1.00 2.50 546 oturniculus savannarum passerinus Grasshopper Sparrow 20 .30 1.50 546aCoturniculus savannarum bimaculatus West. Grasshopper Sparrow 20 .35 1.50 547 Coturniculus henslowii Henslow's Sparrow 1.50 .75 2.00 547aCoturniculus henslowii occidentalis Western Henslow's Sparrow 548 Coturniculus leconteii Leconte's Sparrow .60 2.00 549 Ammodramus caudacutus Sharp-tailed Sparrow 35 .35 1.50 549aAmniodramus caudacutus nelsoni Nelson's Sparrow .60 2.25 549bAmmodramus caudacutus subvirgatus Acadian Sharp-tailed Sparrow .35 2.00 550 Ammodramus maritimus Seaside Sparrow 20 .40 1.50 550aAmmodramus maritimus peninsulse Scott's Seaside Sparrow 1.25 2.50 282 Guide to Taxidermy SSObAmmodramus maritimus sennetti Texan Seaside Sparrow $ $ 2.00 $ 3.50 551 Ammodramus nigrescens Dusky Seaside Sparrow 1.25 2.50 552 Chondestes grammacus Lark Sparrow 05 .40 1.75 552aChondestes grammacus strigatus Western Lark Sparrow 05 .30 1.50 553 Zonotrichia querula Harris's Sparrow -50 2.00 554 Zonotrichia leucophrys White-crowned Sparrow 50 .35 1.50 554aZonotrichia leucophyrs intermedia Intermediate Sparrow 1-00 .35 1.75 554bZonotrichia leucophrys gambeli Gambell's Sparrow 15 .35 1.50 557 Zonotrichia coronata Golden-crowned Sparrow 1.50 .50 2.00 558 Zonotrichia albicollis White throated Sparrow 35 .25 1.50 559 Spizella monticola Tree Sparrow 75 .25 1.50 559aSpizella monticola ochracea Western Tree Sparrow 75 .35 1.50 560 Spizella socialis Chipping Sparrow 05 .25 1.25 560aSpizella socialis arizonae Western Chipping Sparrow 10 .30 1.50 561 Spizella pallida Clay colored Sparrow 35 .30 1.75 Guide to Taxidermy 283 562 Spizella breweri Brewer's Sparrow $ .35 $ .40 $ 1.75 563 Spizella pusilla Field Sparrow 05 .25 1.25 563aSpizella pusilla arenacea Western Field Sparrow 25 .75 2.00 56i Spizella wortheni Worthen's Sparrow 2.00 3.50 565 Spizella atrigularis Black chinned Sparrow 1.00 2.00 3.50 566 Junco aikeni White-winjred Junco 1.50 .75 2.50 567 Junco hyemalis Slate-colored Junco 20 .25 1.50 567aJunco hyemalis oregonus Oregon Junco 50 .50 1.75 567bJunco hyemalis shufeldti Shufeldt's Junco 75 2.00 3.75 567cJunco hyemalis thurberi Thurber's Junco 75 2.00 3.75 667dJunco hyemalis pinosus Point Jinos Junco 567eJunco hyemalis carolinensis Carolina Junco 60 1.00 2.50 568 Junco annectens Pink-sided Junco • 1.50 .50 2.00 568.1 Junco ridgwayi Ridgway's Junco 569 Junco caniceps Gray-headed Junco 1.00 .60 2.00 ii84 Guide to Taxidermy 570 Junco phaeonotus palliatus Arizona Junco $ 1.00 $ .60 $ 2.00 57'laJunco phEeonotus dorsalis Red-backed Junco 1.00 .60 2.00 £71 Junco bairdi Baird's Junco 3.00 4.50 5 7 1.1 Junco townsendi Townsend's Junco 572 Junco insularis Guadalupe Junco 573 Amphispiza bileneata Black-throated Sparrow .35 .50 1.75 574 Amphispiza belli Bell's Sparrow 75 .50 1.75 57 t'lAiiiphispiza belli nevadensis Sage Sparrow 1.00 1.00 2.50 574bAmphispiza belli cinerea Cinereous Sparrow 1.00 1.00 2.50 575 Peucaea aestivalis Pine-wood Sparrow 1. 00 1.00 2.."'^ 575aPeucsea aestivalis bachmanii Bachman's Sparrow 1.50 1.00 2.50 576 Peucsea botteri Arizona Sparrow 2.00 1.00 2.50 578 Peucsea cassini Cassin's Sparrow 1.50 .75 1.50 579 Aimophila carpalis Rufous-winged Sparrow 375 1.00 3.75 580 Aimophila ruficeps Rufous-crowned Sparrow 2.00 .75 2.25 Guide to Taxidermy 285 580aAimophila ruficeps boucardi Boucard's Sparrow $ 2.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.50 580bAimophila ruficeps eremoeca Rock Sparrow 2.00 1.00 2.50 581 Melospiza cinerea melodia Song Sparrow 15 .25 1.50 581aMelospiza cinerea fallax Desert Song Sparrow 35 .35 1.50 581bMelospiza cinerea montana Mountain Song Sparrow 25 .35 2.00 581c!Melospiza cinerea heermanni Heermann's Song Sparrow 10 .35 2.00 581dMelospiza cinerea samuelis Samuel's Song Sparrow 05 .30 1.50 581eMelospiza cinerea guttata Rustjf Song Sparrow .40 .50 2.00 58 If Melospiza cinerea rufina Sooty Song Sparrow 50 1.00 2.50 581gMelospiza cinerea rivularis Brown's Song Sparrow 58lhMelospiza cinerea graminea Santa Barbara Song Sparrow 58 li Melospiza cinerea clementse San Clemente Song Sparrow 581.lMelospizo insignis Bischoff's Song Sparrow 582 Melospiza cinerea Aleutian Song Sparrow 3.00 5.00 7.00 583 Melospiza lincolni Lincoln's Sparrow 75 .30 1.75 286 Guide to Taxidermy 583aMelospiza lincolni striata Forbush's Sparrow 584 Melospiza georgiana Swamp Sparrow $ .10 $ .30 $ 1.50 585 Passerella ilaca Fox Sparrow 1.00 .25 1.50 585aPasserella iliaca unalaschcensis Townsend's Sparrow 2.00 .4-0 2.00 585bPasserena ilaca megarLyncha Thick-billed Sparrow 2.00 .50 2.00 585cPasserella iliaca schistacea Slate-colored Sparrow 2.00 2.00 3.00 586 Arremenops rufivirgata Texas Sparrow 50 .50 2.00 587 Pipilo erythropthalmus Towhee 10 .25 1.75 587aPipilo erythrophthalmus alleni White-eyed Towhee 50 .40 2.00 588 Pipilo maculatus arcticus Arctic Towhee 75 .40 2.00 588aPipilo maculatus megalonyx Spurred Towhee 20 .40 2.0t> 588bPipilo maculatus oregonus Oregon Towhee 25 .40 2.00 589 Pipilo consobrinus Guadalupe Towhee 590 Oreospiza chlorura Green tailed Towhee 50 .50 2.00 591 Pipilo fuscus mesoleucus Canon Towhee 50 .40 1.75 Guide to Taxidermy 287 SQlaPipilo fuscus albigula St. Lucas Towhee $ 1.00 $ 2.00 $ 3.00 591bPipilo fuscus crissalis California Towhee 10. .40 2.00 591cPipilo fuscus senicula Anthony's Towhee 592 Pipilo aberti Abert's Towhee 75 1.25 2.75 593 Cardinalis cardinalis Cardinal 05 .30 1.75 593aCardinalis cardinalis superbus Arizona Cardinal 10 .65 2.00 593bCardinalis cardinalis igneus St. Lucas Cardinal 1.50 1.00 2.50 953cCardinalis cardinalis canicaudus Gray-tailed Cardinal .75 2.25 594 Pyrrhuloxia sinuata Texan Cardinal 35 1.00 2.50 594aPyrrhuloxia sinuata texana Arizona Pyrrhuloxia 2.00 1.00 2.00 594bPyrrhuloxia sinuata peninsulae St. Lucas Pyrrhuloxia 150 I 00 2 50 595 Zamelodia ludoviciana Rose-breasted Grosbeak 10 .45 1.75 596 Habia melanocephala Black-headed Grosbeak 15 50 2.00 597 Guiraca caerulea Blue Grosbeak .. .20 .60 2.00 597aGuiraca caerulea lazula Western Blue Grosbeak 20 .60 2.00 288 Guide to Taxidermy 598 Cyanospiza cyanea Indigo Bunting $ .10 $ .30 $ 1.50 599 Cyanospiza amoena Lazuli Bunting 20 .50 2.00 600 Cyanospiza versicolor Varied Bunting 1.50 2.75 600aCyanospiza versicolor pulchra "Beautiful Bunting 7.00 8.50 601 Cyanospiza ciris Painted Bunting 10 .60 1.75 602 Sporophila morelleti sharpei Sharpe's Seed-eater 50 .60 2.00 603 Tiaris bicolor Grassquit 1.00 1.00 2.25 [603.1] Tiaris canora Melodious Grassquit 604 Spiza americana Dickcissel 05 .30 1.75 605 Calaniospiza melanocorys Lark Bunting 25 .40 2.00 606 Euphonia elegantissima Blue-headed Euphonia 2.00 1.25 2.75 607 Piranga ludoviciana Louisiana Tanager 75 .75 2.00 608 Piranga erythromelas Scarlet Tanager .25 .60 2.00 609 Piranga hepatica Hepatica Tanager 1.50 1.50 3.00 610 Piranga rubra Summer Tanager 25 .60 2.00 Guide to Taxidermy 289 6lOaPiranga rubra cooperi Coopers Tanager $ 1.50 $ 1.50 $ 3.00 6l 1 Urogne subis Purple Martin 10 .10 2.00 GllaProgne subis hesperia Western Martin .60 2.00 6ll.lProgne crptoleuca Cuban Martin 1.25 3.00 612 Petrochelidon lunifrons Cliff Swallow 05 .30 1.75 [612.1] Petrochelidon fulva Cuban Cliff Swallow 613 Hirundo erythrogastra Barn Swallow 05 .30 1.75 614 Tachycineta bicolor Tree Swallow 15 .30 1.75 615 Tacycineta thalassina Violet-green Swallow 40 .60 2.00 [615.1] Callichelidon c yaneoviridis Bahamian Swallow 61 6 Riparia riparia Bank Swallow 05 .25 1.50 617 Stelgidopteryx serripennis Rough-winged Swallow 25 .50 2.00 618 Ampelis garrulus Bohemian Waxwing 1.50 1.25 2.75 619 Ampelis cedrorum Cedar Waxwing 10 .25 1.75 620 Phainopepla nitens Phainopepla 30 .90 2.50 19 290 Guide to Taxidermy 621 Lanius borealis Northern Shrike $ 1.00 $ .50 $ 2.00 622 Lanius ludovicianus Loggerhead Shrike 05 .40 2.00 ()22aLanius ludovicianus excubitorides White-rumped Shrike 05 .30 2.00 622bLanius ludovicianus gambeli California Shrike 05 .30 2.00 623 Vireo calidris barbatulus Black-whiskered Vireo 1.50 .75 2.50 624 Vireo olivaceus Red-eyed Vireo 10 .25 1.75 625 Vireo flavoviridis Yellow-green Vireo 1.50 1.25 2.75 626 Vireo philadelphicus Philadelphia Vireo .60 2.00 627 Vireo gilvus Warbling Vireo 15 .25 1.75 628 Vireo flavifrons Yellow-throated Vireo 25 .30 1.75 629 Vireo solitarius Blue-headed Vireo 1.00 .35 1.75 629aVireo solitarius cassinii Cassin's Vireo 1.00 .60 2.00 629bVireo solitarius plumbeus Plumbeous Vireo 75 .50 2.00 629cVireo solitarius alticola Mountain Solitary Vireo 75 .50 2.00 629dVireo solitarius lucasanus St. Lucas Solitarv Vireo 1.00 2.50 Guide to Taxidermy 291 630 Vireo atricapillus Black-capped Vireo $ 1.00 $ 1.00 $ 2.50 (iSl Vireo noveboracensis White-eyed Vireo 15 .30 1.50 63 laVireo noveboracensis maynardi Key West Vireo 1.50 1.50 3.00 632 Vireo huttoni Hutton's Vireo 2.00 .60 2.00 632aVireo huttoni stephensi Stephen's Vireo 2.00 .75 2.00 632cVireo huttoni obscurus Anthony's Vireo 633 Vireo Bellii Bell's Vireo 10 .50 1.75 633aVireo bellii pusillus Least Vireo 75 1.00 2.50 634 Vireo vicinior Gray Vireo 1.50 1.00 2.50 635 Coereba bahamensis Bahama Honey Creeper 1.25 2.00 3.25 636 Mniotilta varia Black and White Warbler 50 .35 1.50 637 Protonotaria citrea Prothonotary Warbler 25 .75 2.25 638 Helinaia swainsonii Swainson's Warbler 1.00 2.50 4.00 639 Helmitheros vermivorus Worm-eating Warbler 75 .75 2.25 640 Helminthophila bachmani Bachman's Warbler 3.00 4.50 292 Guide to Taxidermy 641 Helminthophila pinus Blue-winged Teal $ 1.50 $ .75 $ 2.25 642 Helminthophila chrysoptera Golden-winged Warbler 75 .60 2.00 643 Helminthophila luciae Lucy's Warbler 2.00 1.50 2.75 644 Helminthophila virginise Virginia's Warbler 2.50 2.50 3.75 645 Helminthophila rubricapilla Nashville Warbler 75 .30 1.75 645aHe]minthophila rubricapilla gutturalis Calaveras Warbler .35 2.00 646 Helminthophila celata Orange-crowned Warbler 2.00 .60 2.00 646aHelminthophila celata lutescens Lutescent Warbler 75 .60 2.25 646bHelniinthophila celata sordida Dusky Warbler 647 Helminthophila peregrina Tennessee Warbler 1.00 2.50 648 Compsothlypis americana Parula Warbler 20 .25 1.50 649 Compsothlypis nigrilora Sennett's Warbler 2.00 .75 2.50 650 Dendroica tigrina Cape May Warbler 1.25 2.50 651 Dendroica olivacea Olive Warbler 5.00 2.50 4.00 652 Dendroica aestiva Yellow Warbler 05 .30 1.50 Guide to Taxidermy 293 652aDendroica sestiva sonorana Sonora Yellow Warbler $ .50 $ .50 $ 2.00 653 Dendroica bryanto castaneiceps Mangrove Warbler 8.00 10.00 654 Dendroica coerulescens Black-throated Blue Warbler 1.25 .35 1.75 655 Dendroica coronata ]\Iyrtle Warbler 75 .25 1.75 656 Dendroica auduboni Audubon's Warbler 1.50 .50 2.00 657 Dendroica maculosa Magnolia Warbler 50 .30 1.75 658 Dendroica cserulea Cerulean Warbler 1.75 .75 2.00 659 Dendroica pensylvanica Chestnut-sided Warbler 15 .25 1.75 660 Dendroica castanea Bay-breasted Warbler 1.50 .75 2.25 661 Dendroica striata Black-poll Warbler 75 .25 1.50 662 Dendroica blackburniae Blackburnian Warbler 2.00 .50 2.00 663 Dendroica dominica Yellow-throated Warbler 1.50 .60 2.00 663aDendroica dominica albilora Sycamore Warbler 2.00 .65 2.00 664 Dendroica gracise Grace's Warbler 2.50 3.00 4.50 665 Dendroica nigrescens Black-throated Gray Warbler 2.50 1.00 2.50 294 Guide to Taxidermy 666 Dendroica chrysoparia Golden cheeked Warbler $ 2.00 $ 6.00 $ 8.00 667 Dendroica virens Black throated Green Warbler 50 .30 1.75 668 Dendroica townsendi Townsend's Warbler 2.00 2.50 4.00 669 Dendroica occidentalis Hermit Warbler 5.00 2.50 4.00 670 Dendroica kirtlandi Kirtland's Warbler 6.00 7.50 671 Dendroica vigorsii Pine Warbler 50 .30 1.75 672 Dendroica palmarum Palm Warbler 3.00 .50 1.75 672aDendroica palmarum hyprochrysea Yellow Palm Warbler .25 1.75 673 Dendroica discolor Prairie Warbler 30 .40 1.75 674 Seiurus aurocapillus Oven bird 20 .25 1.75 675 Seiurus noveboracensis Water-Thrush 50 .30 1.75 675aSeiurus noveboracensis notabillis Grinnell's Water-Thrush 1.50 .75 2.25 676 Seiurus motacilla Louisiana Water-Thrush 50 .75 2.25 677 Geothlypis formosa Kentucky Warbler 75 1.00 2.00 678 Geothlypis agilis Connecticut Warbler 1.00 1.00 2.50 Guide to Taxidermy 295 679 Geothlypis Philadelphia Mourning Warbler $ 2.50 $ .75 $ 2.50 680 Geothlypis macgillivrayi Macgillivray's Warbler 1.50 .75 2.25 681 Geothlypis trichas Maryland Yellow-throat 20 .25 1.50 681aGeotlilvDis trichas occidentalis Western Yellow-throat 25 .50 1.75 681bGeothlypis trichas ignota Florida Yellow-throat 1.00 1.00 2.25 682 Geothlypis beldingi Belding's Yellow-throat 4.00 5.50 682.1 Geothlypis poliocephala ralphi Rio Grande Yellow-throat 2.00 3.50 683 Icteria virens Yellow-breasted Chat 10 .40 1.75 683alcteria virens longicauda Long-tailed Chat 10 .40 1.75 684 Wilsonia mitrata Hooded Warbler 50 .60 2.00 685 Wilsonia pusilla Wilson's Warbler 1.00 .50 1.75 685aWilsonia pusilla pileolata Pileoated Warbler 75 .50 2.00 686 Wilsonia canadensis Canadian Warbler 1.50 .40 1.75 687 Setophaga ruticilla American Redstart 15 .25 1.50 688 Setophaga picta Painted Redstart 2.00 2.00 3.50 -96 Guide to Taxidermy [689]Setophaga miniata Red-bellied Redstart $ $ 2.50 $ 4.00 690 Cardellina rubrifrons Red-faced Warbler 2.50 2.00 3.50 [691]Ergaticus ruber Red Warbler 3.00 4.50 [692]Basileuterus culcivorus Brasher's Warbler 3.00 4.50 [692]Basileuterus culicivorus Bell's Warbler 3.00 4.50 [694] Motacilla alba White Wagtail 10* .65 2.00 [695 JMotacilla ocularis Swinhoe's Wagtail 696 Budytes flavus leucostriatus Siberian Yellow Wag-tail 1.00 .75 2.25 697 Anthus pensilvanicus American Pipit 75 .30 1.75 [698] Anthus pratensis Meadow Pipit 10* .60 2.00 [699] Anthus cervinus Red-throated Pipit 75* 2.00 3.25 700 Anthus spragueii Sprague's Pipit 3.00 1.50 3.00 701 Cinclus mexicanus American Dipper 1.00 .75 2.25 702 Oroscoptes montanus Sage Thrasher , 50 .50 2.00 703 Mimus polyglottos Mockingbird 05 .50 2.00 Guide to Taxidermy 297 70 1 Galeoscoptes carolinensis Catbird $ .05 $ .35 $ 2.00 705 Toxostoma rufum Brown Thrasher .05 .1.0 2.00 706 Toxostoma longirostre sennetti Sennett's Thrasher 15 .10 2.00 707 Toxostoma curvirostre Curve-billed Thrasher 15 .10 2.00 707aToxostoma curvirostre jsalmeri Palmer's Thrasher 75 1 .00 3.00 708 Toxostoma bendirei Bendire's Thrasher 75 1.00 3.00 709 Toxostoma cinereum St. Lucas Thrasher 3.00 1.50 3.00 709aToxostoma cinereus mearnsi Mearn's Thrasher 710 Toxostoma redivivum California Thrasher 20 .75 2.50 711 Toxostoma lecontei Leconte's Thrasher 2.00 2.00 3.75 712 Toxostima crissalis Crissal Thrasher 1.00 2.00 3.50 713 Heleod}i;es brunneicapillus- Cactus Wren 10 -75 2.25 713aHel6dytes brunneicapillus bryanti Bryant's Cactus Wren 715 Salpinctes obsoletus Eock Wren 50 .50 2.00 716 Salpinctes guadeloupensis Guadalupe Eock Wren 9,08 Gx'iDE TO Taxidermy [717]Catherpes mexicanus White-throated Wren $ .75 $ 1.25 $ 2.50 71 7aCatherpes mexicanus conspersus Canon Wren 60 1.25 2.50 7 I 7bCatherpes mexicanus punctulatus Dotted Canon Wren 1.25 2.50 7 I 8 Thryothorus ludovicianus Carolina Wren 10 .40 1.75 71 SaThryothorus ludovicianus miamensis Florida Wren 50 1.00 2.25 718bThryotliorus ludovicianus lomitensis Lomita Wren 75 2.00 3.50 719 Thryothorus bewickii Bewick's Wren 25 .75 2.00 71!)aThryothorus bewickii spilurus Vigor's ^^'ren 25 .75 2.00 719bThryothorus bewickii bairdi Baird's Wren 25 .75 2.00 7 19-1 Thryothorus leucophrys San Clemante Wren 720 Thryothorus brevicaudus Guadalupe Wren 721 Troglodytes aedon House Wren 05 .30 .75 721aTroglodytes aedon parkmanii Parkman's Wren 10 .35 .75 721bTroglodytes aedon aztecus Western House Wren 10 .35 .75 722 Troglodytes hiemalis Winter Wren 1.00 .40 1.75 Guide to Taxidermy 299 722aTroglodytes hiemalis pacificus Western Winter Wren $ 1.00 $ .-)() $ 'i.