■.MiSTGtMEIX/.'eOOTTY ,--»>^ tw .^|r. F S3S CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Date Due W jfiffTi'igsra J£- - CT^ ^^ -^m^^^-^wAS^ nUlJ'" *'9'''flW^^ Cornell University Library F 532M78 B39 "**'°1 "iiiiiiiiiiiffliliifS " 3 1924 028 803 307 olin Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028803307 FIRST COURT-HOUSE OF MONTGOMERY COUNTY. (From plans and epeciflcations on fllo in tin- avchivcB of the county.) HISTOIl^^ OF MONTGOMERY COUNTY, TOGBTHBK WITH HISTORIC NOTES ON THE WABASH YALLEY, GLEANED FROM EAKLT AUTHORS, OLD MAPS AND MANUSCRIPTS, PRIVATE AND OFPICIAL CORRESPONDENCE, AND OTHER AUTHENTIC, THOUGH, FOR THE MOST PART, OUT-OF-THE-WAY SOURCES. By H. W. ^ECKWITH, Op the Danville Bab ; Corresponding Member op the Historical Societies op • Wisconsin and Chicago. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. CHICAGO: H. H. HILL AND N. IDDIN6S, PUBLISHERS. 1881. ..o.y. F S'ZZ COPTBIOHT, 1881, W. BBCKWITH AND SO By H. W. BBCKWITH ON. .„98BSi'..^d» PREFACE. In presenting this History to the public the editors and publishers have had in view the preservation of certain valuable historical facts and information which without concentrated effort would not have been obtained, but with the passing away of the old pioneers, the failure of memory, and the loss of public records and private diaries, would soon have been lost. This locality being compara- tively new, we flatter ourselves that, with the zeal and industry displayed by our general and local historians, we have succeeded in rescuing from tlie fading years almost every scrap of history worthy of preservation. Doubtless the work is, in some respects, imperfect; — we do not present it as a model literary effort, but, in that which goes to make up a valuable book of reference for the present reader and the future historian, we assure our patrons that neither money nor time has been spared in the accomplishment of the work. Perhaps some errors will be found. With treacherous memories, personal, political and sectarian prejudices and prefer- ences to contend against, it would be almost a miracle if no mistakes were made. We hope that even these defects which may be found to exist may be made available in s,o far as they may provoke dis- cussion and call attention to corrections and additions necessary to perfect history. The "History of the Wabash Valley" — necessarily the founda- tion for the history of this part of the country, by H. W. Beckwith, of Danville — has already received the hearty endorsement of the press, of the historical societies of the northwestern states, and ot the most accurate historians in the country. Mr. Beckwith has in his possession perhaps the most extensive private library of rare historical works bearing on the territory under consideration in the world, and from them he has drawn as occasion demanded. 6 - PBBFACB. The general county history, written by P. S. Kennedy, will be found by our readers to be in a bold, fearless style, dealing m facts as so many causes, and pursuing effects to the end without turning to the right or left to accommodate the opinions or prefer- ences of friend, party or sect. The war record, which is as complete as can possibly be obtained, it is believed will give eminent satisfaction to the many brave boys who still- survive and who took their lives in their hands and went forth to battle for the Union, and who have liberally patronized us in this work. The township histories, by Messrs. Cowan, Cochran, Kaymond, Hyde and Turner, will be found full of valuable recollections, which, but for their patient research, must soon have been lost forever, but which are now happily preserved for all ages to come. These gentlemen have placed upon the county and the adjacent country a mark which will not be obliterated, but which will grow brighter and broader as the years go by. The biographical department contains the names and private sketches of nearly every person of importance in each township. A few persons, whose sketches we should be .pleased to have pre- sented, for various reasons refused or delayed furnishing us with the desired information, and in this matter only we feel that our work is incomplete. However, in most of such cases we have obtained, in regard to the most important persons, some items, and have woven them into the county or township sketches, so that, as we believe, we cannot be accused of either partiality or prejudice. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER I. 'Topography — The drainage of the Lakes and the Mississippi, and the Indian and French names by which they were severally called 11 CHAPTER II. Drainage of the Illinois and Wabash — Their tributary streams — The portages connecting the drainage to the Atlantic with that of the Gulf 17 CHAPTER III. The ancient Maumee Valley — Geological features — The portage of the Wabash and the Kankakee 31 CHAPTER IV. The rainfall — Cultivation of the soil tends to equalize rainfall, and prevent the recurrence of drouths and floods 26 CHAPTER V. •Origiii of the prairies — Their former extent — Gradual encroachment of the forest — Prairie fires — Aboriginal names of the prairies, and the Indians who lived exclusively upon them 29 CHAPTER VI. Early French discoveries — .raques Cartier ascends the St. Lawrence in 1535 — Samuel Cham plain founds Quebec in 1608 — In 1643 Montreal is established — Influence of Quebec and Montreal upon the Northwest continues until subse- quent to the war of 1813 — Spanish discoveries of the lower Mississippi in 1525, 37 CHAPTER VII. Joliet and Marquette's Voyage — Father Marquette's Journal, descriptive of the journey and the country through which they traveled — Biographical sketches of Marquette and Joliet 43 CHAPTER VIII. iLa Salle's Voyage — Biographical sketch of La Salle — Sketch of Father Hennepin and the merit of his writings 54 CHAPTER" IX. Jja Salle's Voyage continued — He erects Fort Miamis 63 CHAPTER X. The several rivers called the Miamis — La Salle's route down the Illinois — The Kankakee Marshes — The French and Indian names of the Kankakee and Des Plaines — The Illinois — '-'Fort Crevecoeur " — The whole valley of the great river taken possession of in the name of the King of France 72 TABLE OP CONTENTS. CHAPTER XL Death of La Salle, in attempting to establish a colony near the mouth of the Mississippi — Chicago Creek— The origin of the name — La Salle assassinated and his colony destroyed — Second attempt of France, under Mons. Iberville, in 1699, to establish settlements on the Gulf— The Western Company— Law's scheme of inflation and its consequences o^ CHAPTER Xn. Surrender of Louisiana to the French Crown in 1731 — Early routes by way of the Kankakee, Chicago Creek, the Ohio, the Maumee and Wabash described — The Maumee and Wabash, and the number and origin of their several names — Indian villages ^^ CHAPTER XIII. Aboriginal inhabitants — The several Illinois tribes — Of the name Illinois, and its origin — The Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Tamaroas, Peorias and Metchigamis, sub- divisions of the Illinois Confederacy — The tradition concerning the Iroquois River — Their decline and removal westward of the Missouri 105 CHAPTER XIV. TheMiamis — The Miami, Piankeshaw and Wea bands — Their superiority and their military disposition — Their trade and difficulties with the French and the English — They are upon the Maumee and Wabash — Their Villages — They defeat the Iroquois — They trade with the English, and incur the anger of the French — Their bravery — Their decline — Destructive effects of intem- perance — Cession of their lands in Illinois, Indiana and Ohio — r Their re- moval westward and present condition 119' CHAPTER XV. The Pottawatomies — Originally from the north and east of Lake Huron — Their migrations by way of Mackinaw to the country west of Lake Michigan, and thence south and eastward — Their games — Origin of the name Pottawato- mie — Occupy a portion of the country of the Miamis along the Wabash — Their villages — At peace with the United States after the war of 1812 — Cede their lands — Their exodus from the Wabash, the Kankakee and Wabash ... IST CHAPTER XVI. The Kickapoos and Mascoutins reside about Saginaw Bay in 1613 ; on Fox River, Wisconsin, in 1670 — Their reception of the Catholic fathers — On the Maumee in 1712 — In southern Wisconsin and northern Illinois — Migrate to the Wabash — Dwellers of the prairie — Their destruction at the siege of De- troit — Nearly destroy the Illinois and Piankeshaws, and occupy their country — Join Tecumseh in a body — They, with the Winnebagoes, attack Fort Harrison — Their country between the Illinois and Wabash — Their resem- blance to the Sac and Fox Indians 15S CHAPTER XVII. The Shawnees and Delawares — Originally east of the Alleghany Mountains — Are subdued and driven out by the Iroquois — They war on the American settlements — Their villages on the Big and Little Miamis, the St. Mary's, the Au Glaize, Maumee and Wabash — The Delawares — Made women of by tie Iroquois — Their country on White River, Indiana, and eastward defined — They, with the Shawnees, sent west of the Mississippi 170 CHAPTER XVIII. The Indians — Their implements, utensils, fortifications, mounds, manners and customs 180 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIX. Stone implements used by the Indians before they came in contact with the Euro- peans — Illastrations of various kinds of stone implements, and suggestions as to their probable uses 195 CHAPTER XX. The war for the fur trade — Former abundance of wild animals and water-fowl in the Northwest — The buffalo ; their range, their numbers, and final disap- pearance — Valine of the fur trade ; its importance to Canada 208 CHAPTER XXI. The war for the empire — English claims to the Northwest — Deeds from the Iro- quois to a large part of the country 324 CHAPTER XXII. Pohtiac's war to recover the country from the English — Pontiac's confederacy falls to pieces — The country turned over to the English — Pontiac's death. . . 334 CHAPTER XXIII. Gren. Clark's conquest of the " Illinois " — The Revolutionary war — Sketch of Gen. Clark — His manuscript memoir of his march to the Illinois — He cap- tures Kaskaskia — The surrender of Vincennes — Capt. Helm surprises a convoy of English boats at the mouth of the Vermilion River — Organization of the northwest territory into Illinois county of Virginia 345 HISTORY OP MONTGOMERY COUNTY. Topography and geology 1 Early history & A noted criminal trial 38 Montgomery County in the war of the rebellion 31 Roll of ofScers in the civil war 83 Soldiers of the war for the Union - 44 The honored dead 103 Railroads of Montgomery County Ill County ofiicers 114 Union Township 116 Crawfordsville '. lift Organization of city 183 Additions 187 Benevolent Orders 143 Fire Department 147 Trades and professions 149 Wabash College 153 Biographical , 159 Brown Township 319 Lake Harney 323 Public improvements 324 Early history '. 825 Organization ; 327 Towns and villages 329 SecretOrders ..: 333 Churches 33& Brown's Valley 345 New market 346 Biographical ~ 349 Walnut Township 863 Towns 368 Schools and churches '. 870 Lodges .371 Biographical 374 10 , TABLE OF CONTKNTS. Scott Township 406 Biographical 414 Madison Township. .• 431 Lodges .... ■. 433 Churches 434 Biographical 435 Clarlt Township 443 Biographical 452 Coal Creek Township 476 Schools 484 Churches 485 Meharry ftrove 488 Bioffraphical ... 488 Franklin Township 521 Organization 525 Early history 526 First land sales 527 Early improvements 528 Biographical 540 Su«ar Creek Township , , ... 563 Biographical 570 Ripley Township 583 Biographical ' . . 587 Wayne Township .....'. 590 Biographical ' ' ' ' 592 THE WABASH VALLEY. CHAPTER I. TOPOGRAPHY. The reader will have a better understanding of the manner in which the territory, herein treated of, was discovered and subse- quently occupied, if reference is made, in the outset, to some of its more important topographical features. Indeed, it would be an unsatisfactory task to try to follow the routes of early travel, or to undertake to pursue the devious wanderings of the aboriginal tribes, or trace the advance of civilized society into a country, without some preliminary knowledge of its topography. Looking upon a map of North America, it is observed that west- ward of the Alleghany Mountains the waters are divided into two great masses; the one, composed of waters flowing into the great northern lakes, is, by the river St. Lawrence, carried into the Atlantic Ocean ; the other, collected by a multitude of streams spread out like a vast net over the surface of more than twenty states and several ter- ritories, is gathered at last into the Mississippi River, and thence dis- charged into the Gulf of Mexico. As it was by the St. Lawrence River, and the great lakes connected with it, that the Northwest Territory was discovered, and for many years its trade mainly carried on, a more minute notice of this remark- able water communication will not be out of place. Jacques Cartier, a French navigator, having sailed from St. Malo, entered, on the 10th of August, 1535, the Gulf, which he had explored the year before, and named it the St. Lawrence, in memory of the holy martyr whose feast is celebrated on that day. This name was subsequently extended to the river. Previous to this it was called the River of Canada, the name given by the Indians to the whole country.* The drainage of the St. Lawrence and the lakes extends through 14 degrees of longi- tude, and covers a distance of over two thousand miles. Ascending * Father Charlevoix' "History and General Description of New France;" Dr. John G. Shea's translation ; vol. 1, pp. 37, 115. 12 HISTOKIC NOTES OF THE NOKTHWEST. this river, we behold it flanked with bold crags and sloping hillsides ; its current beset with rapids and studded with a thousand islands ; combining scenery of marvelous beauty and grandeur. Seven hundre and fifty miles above its mouth, the channel deepens and the shores recede into an expanse of water known as Lake Ontario.* Passing westward on Lake Ontario one hundred and eighty mileB a second river is reached. A few miles above its entry into the lake, the river is thrown over a ledge of rock into a yawning chasm, one hundred and fifty feet below;- and, amid the deafening noise and clouds of vapor escaping from the agitated waters is seen the great Falls of Niagara. At Buff^alo, twenty-two miles above the falls, the shores of JSTiagara Eiver recede and a second great inland sea is formed, having an average breadth of 40 miles and a length of 240 miles. This is Lake Erie. The name has been variously spelt,— Earie, Herie, Erige and Erike. It has also born the name of Conti.f Father Hennepin says : " The Hurons call it Lake Erige, or Erike, that is to say, the Lake of the Cat, and the inhabitants of Canada have softened the word to Erie ; " vide " A New Discovery of a Yast Country in America," p. 77 ; London edition, 1698. Hennepin's derivation is substantially followed by the more accurate and accomplished historian. Father Charlevoix, who at a later period, in 1721, in writing of this lake uses the following words : " The name it bears is that of an Indian nation of the Huron language, which was formerly settled on its banks and who have been entirely destroyed by the Iroquois. Erie in that language signifies cat, and in some accounts this nation is called the cat nation." He adds : "Some modern maps have given Lake Erie the name of Conti, but with no better success than the names of Conde, Tracy and Orleans which have been given to Lakes Huron, Superior and Michigan.";]: At the upper end of Lake Erie, to the southward, is Maumee Bay, of which more hereafter ; to the northward the shores of t\\e lake again The word is Huron- Iroquois, and is derived, in their language,"from Ontra, a lake,"and io beautiful, the compound word meaning a beautiful lake ; vide Letter of DuBois D'Avaugour, August 16, 1663, to the Ministfer: Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 16. Baron LaHontan, in his work and on the accompanying map, calls it Lake Frontenac; vide "New Voyages to North America," vol. 1, p. 319. And Frontenac, the name by which lihis lake was most generally designated by the early French writers, was given to it in honor of the great Count Frontenac. Governor-General of Canada. t Narrative of Father Zenobia Membre, who accompanied Sieur La Salle in the voyage westward on this lake in 1679 ; vide " Discovery and Exploration of the l^ississippi," by Dr. John G. Shea, p. 90. Barou La Hontan's "Voyages to North America, ' vol. 1, p. 217, also map prefixed ; London edition, 1703. Cadwalder Col- den's map, referred to in a previous note, designates it as " Lake Erie, or Okswego " X Journal of a Voyage to North America, vol. 2, p. 3 ; London Edition, 1761 THE LAKES, 13 approach each other and form a channel known as the Riv?eF Detroit, % French word signifying a strait or narrow'passage. Northward some twenty miles, and above the city of Detroit, the river widens into a small body of water called Lake St. Clair. The name as now written is incorrect : " we should either retain the French form, Claire, or take the English Clare. It received its name in honor of the founder of the Franciscan nuns, from the fact that La Sajle reached it on the day con- secrated to her."^ Northward some twelve miles across this lake the land again encroaches upon and contracts the waters within another narrow bound known as the Strait of St. Clair. Passing up this strait, northward about forty miles, Lake Huron is reached. It is 250 miles long and 190 miles wide, including Georgian Bay on the east, and its whole area is computed to be about 21,000 square miles. Its magnitude feiUy justified its early name, La Mer-douce, the Fresh Sea, on account of its extreme vastness.f The more popular name of Huron, which has survived all others, was given to it from the great Huron nation of Indians who formerly inhabited the country lying to the eastward of it. Indeed, many of the early French writers call it Lac des Hurons, that is. Lake of the Hurons. It is so laid down on the maps of Hen- nepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix and Golden in the volumes before quoted. Going northward, leaving the Straits of Mackinaw, through which Lake Michigan discharges itself from the west, and the chain of Manitoulin Islands to the eastward, yet another river, the connecting link between Lake Huron and Superior, is reached. Its current is Bwift, and a mile below Lake Superior are the Falls, where the water leaps and tumbles down a channel obstructed by boulders and shoals, where, from time immemorial, the Indians of various tribes have resorted on account of the abundance of fish and the ease with which they are taken. Previous to the year 1670 the river was called the Sault, that is, the rapids, or falls. In this year Fathers Marquette and Dablon founded here the mission of " St. Marie du Sault " (St. Mary of the Falls), from which the modern name of the river, St. Mary's, is derived.:]: Eecently the United States have perfected the ship canal fliit. in Rnlid rnnV. flrnnnd t.bfi falls. t.hrniiD'li wrTiiWi t.Vif> lanreat vAsscda 14 HISTORIC NOTES OS THE NORTHWEST. poetically and not inaccurately described by a Jesuit Father, whose account of it is preserved in the Kelations for the years 1669 and 1670 : " This lake has almost the form of a bended bow, and in length is more than 180 leagues. The southern ^ore is as it were the cord, the arrow being a long strip of land [Keweenaw Point] issuing from the south- ern coast and running more than 80 leagues to the middle of the lake." A glance on the map will show the aptness of the comparison. The name Superior was given to it by the Jesuit Fathers, " in conse- quence of its being above that of Lake Huron.* It was also called Lake Tracy, after Marquis De Tracy, who was governor-general of Canada from 1663 to 1665. Father Claude Allouez, in his " Journal of Travels to the Country of the Ottawas," preserved in the Relations for the years 1666, 1667, says: "After passing through the St. Mary's Eiver we entered the upper lake, which will hereafter bear the name of Monsieur Tracy, an acknowledgment of the obligation under which the people of this country are to him." The good father, however, was mistaken ; the name Tracy only appears on a few ancient maps, or is perpetuated in rare volumes that record' the almost for- gotten laboi's of the zealous Catholic missionaries; while the earlier name of Lake " Superior " is familiar to every school-boy who has thumbed an atlas. At the western extremity of Lake Superior enter the Rivers Bois- Brule and St. Louis, the upper tributaries of which have their sources on the northeasterly slope of a water-shed, and approximate very near the head-waters of the St. Croix, Prairie and Savannah Rivers, which, issuing from the opposite side of this same ridge, flow into the upper Mississippi. The upper portions of Lakes Huron, Michigan, Green Bay, with their indentations, and the entire coast line, witii the islands eastward and westward of the Straits of Mackinaw, are all laid down with quite a degree of accuracy on a map attached to the Relations of the Jesuits for the years 1670 and 1671, a copy of which is contained in Bancroft's History of the United States,t showing that the reverend fathers were industrious in mastering and preserving the geographical features of the wilderness they traversed in their holy calling. Lake Michigan is the only one of the five great lakes that lays wholly within the United States, — the other four, with their connect- ing rivers and straits, mark the boundary between the Dominion of Canada and the United States. Its length is 320 miles ; its average breadth 70, with a mean depth of over 1,000 feet. Its area is some * Relations of 1660 and 1669. f "Vol. 3, p. 152; fourth edition. LAKE MICHIGAN. 15 22,000 square miles, being considerably more than that of Lake Huron and less than that of Lake Superior. Michigan was the last of the lakes in order of discovery. The Hurons, christianized and dwelling eastward of Lake Huron, had been driven from their towns and cultivated fields by the Iroquois, and scat- tered about Mackinaw and the desolate coast of Lake Superi-"- *")yond, whither they were followed by their faithful pastors, the Jesuits, who erected new altars and gathered the remnants of their stricken follow- ers about them ; all this occurred before the fathers had acquired any definite knowledge of Lake Michigan. In their mission work for the year 1666, it is referred to " as the Lake Illinouek, a great lake adjoin- ing, or between, the lake of the Hurons and that of Green. Bay, that had not [as then] come to their knowledge." In the Eelation for the same year, it is referred to as " Lake Illeaouers," and " Lake Illinioues, as yet Unexplored, though much smaller than Lake Huron, and that the Outagamies [the Fox Indians] call it Maehi-hi-gan-ing." Father Hen- nepin says : " The lake is called by the Indians, ' Illinouek,' and by the French, 'Illinois,'" and that the "Lake Illinois, in the native lan- guage, signifies the 'Lake of Men.' " He also adds in the same para- graph, that it is called by the Miamis, " Misehigonong, that is, the great lake." * Father Marest, in a letter dated at Kaskaskia, Illinois, ITovember 9, 1Y12, so often referred to on account of the valuable his- torical matter it contains, contracts the aboriginal name to Michigan, and is, perhaps, the first author who ever spelt it in the way that has become universal. He naively says, " that on the maps this lake has the name, without any authority, of the ' Lake of the Illinois^ since the Illinois do not dwell in its neighborhood." f * Hennepin's " New Discovery of a Vast Country in America," vol. 1, p. 35. The name is derived from the two Algonquin words, Michi (raishi or missi), which signifies great, as it does, also, several or many, and Sagayigan, a lake; vide Henry's Travels, p. 37, and Alexander Mackenzie's Vocabulary of Algonquin Words. t Eip's Early Jesuit Missions, p. 222. CHAPTER IL ' ©RAINA6E OF THE ILLINOIS AND WABASH. « Tbb feeder's attention wiU now be directed to the dp^inage of t})(9 Illinois and Wabash I^ivers to the Mississippi, and that of the Maumee Jliver into Lake Erie. The Illinois Eiver proper is formed in Grundy cpwnty, Illinois, helow the city of Joliet, by the union of the Kanka- kee gipd Pesplaines Eivers. The latter rises in southeastern "Wisconsin ; and its course is almost south, through the counties of Cook and Wil}. The JCankakee has its source in the vicinity of South Bend, Indian^. It pursues a devious way, through marshes and low grounds, a south- westerly course, forming the boundary-line between the counties pf li^porte, Porter and Lake on the north, and Stark, Jasper and INewtoii on the south ; thence across the dividing line of the two states of Jndj- ana and Illinois, and some fifteen miles into the county of Kankakei§, at the confluence of the Iroquois Eiver, where its direction is changej^ northwest to its junction with the Desplaines. The Illinois passes westerly into the county of Putnam, where it again turns and pursuesB a generally southwest course to its confluence with the Mississippi, twenty miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is about five hun- dred miles long ; is deep and broad, and in several places expands into basins, which may be denominated lakes. Steamers ascend the river, in high water, to La Salle ; from whence to Chicago navigation is contin- ued by means of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The principal trib- utaries of the Illinois, from the north and right bank, are the Au Sable, Fox Eiver, Little Vermillion, Bureau Creek, Kickapoo Creek (which empties in just below Peoria), Spoon Eiver, Sugar Creek, and finally Crooked Creek. From the south or left bank are successively the Iro- quois (into the Kankakee), Mazon Creek, Vermillion, Crow Meadow, Mackinaw, Sangamon, and Macoupin. The "Wabash issues out of a small lake, in Mercer county, Ohio, and runs a westerly course through the counties of Adams, Wells and Huntington in the state of Indiana. It receives Little Eiver, just below the city of Huntington, and continues a westwardly course through the counties of "Wabash, Miami and Cass. Here it turns" more to the south, flowing through the counties of Carroll and Tippe- canoe, and marking the boundary -line between the counties of Warren 16 THE MAUMEE AND PORTAGES. 17 and Yermillion on the west, and Fountain and Park on the east. At Covington, the county seat of Fountain county, the river runs more directly south, between the counties of Yermillion on the one side, and Fountain and Parke on the other, and through the county of Vigo, some miles below Terre Haute, from which place it forms the boundary- line between the states of Indiana and Illinois to its confluence with the Ohio. Its principal tributaries from the north and west, or right bank of the stream, are Little Kiver, Eel Kiver, Tippecanoe, Pine Creek, Eed Wood, Big Yermillion, Little Yermillion, Bruletis, Sugar Creek, Em- barras, and Little "Wabash. The streams flowing in from the south and east, or left bank of the I'iver, are the Salamonie, Mississinewa, Pipe Creek, Deer Creek, Wildcat, Wea and Shawnee Creeks, Coal Creek, Sugar Creek, Kaccoon Creek, Otter Creek, Busseron Creek, and White Kiver. There are several other, and smaller, streams not necessary here to notice, although they are laid down on earlier maps, and mentioned in old " Gazetteers " and " Emigrant's Guides." The Maumee is formed by the St. Joseph and St. Mary's Elvers, which unite their waters at Ft. Wayne, Indiana. The St. Joseph has its source in Hillsdale county, Michigan, and runs southwesterly through the northwest corner of Ohio, through the county of De Kalb, and into the county of Allen, Indiana. The St. Mary's rises in Au Glaize county, Ohio, very near the little lake at the head of the Wabash, before referred to, and runs northwestwardly parallel with the Wabash, through the counties of Mercer, Ohio, and Adams, Indiana, and into Allen county to the place of its union with the St. Joseph, at Ft. Wayne. The principal tributaries of the Maumee are the Au Glaize from the south. Bear Creek, Turkey Foot Creek, Swan Creek ~from the north. The length of the Maumee Biver, from Ft. Wayne northeast to Maumee Bay at the west end of Lake Erie, is very little over 100 miles. A noticeable feature relative to the territory under consideration, and having an important bearing on its discovery and settlement, is the fact that many of the tributaries of the Mississippi have their branches interwoven with numerous rivers draining into the lakes. They not infrequently issue from the same lake, pond or marsh situated on the summit level of the divide from which the waters from one end of the common reservoir drain to the Atlantic Ocean and from the other to the Gulf of Mexico. By this means nature herself provided navig- able communication between the northern lakes and the Mississippi Yalley. It was, however, only at times of the vernal floods that the 18 HISTORIC KOTES OF THE NORTHWEST. communication was complete. At other seasons of the year it was interrupted, when transfers by land were required for a short distance. The places where these transfers were made are known by the French term portage, which, like many other foreign derivatives, has become anglicized, and means a carrying place ; because in low stages of water the canoes and effects of the traveler had to be carried around the dry marsh or pond from the head of one stream to the source of that beyond. The first of these portages known to the Europeans, of which accounts have come down to us, is the portage of the Wisconsin, in the state of that name, connecting the Mississippi and Green Bay by means of its situation between the Wisconsin and Fox Eivers. The next is the portage of Chicago, uniting Chicago Creek, which empties into Lake Michigan at Chicago, and the Desplaines of the Illinois Kiver. The third is the portage of the Kankakee, near the present city of South Bend, Indiana, which connects the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan with the upper waters of the Kankakee. And the fourth is the portage of the Wabash at Ft. Wayne, Indiana, between the Maumee and the Wabash, by way of Little Eiver. Though abandoned and their former uses forgotten in the advance of permanent settlement and the progress of more efficient means of commercial intercourse, these portages were the gateways of the French between their possessions in Canada and along the Mississippi. Formerly the Northwest was a wilderness of forest and prairie, with only the paths of wild animals or the trails of roving Indians leading, through tangled undergrowth and tall grasses. In its undeveloped form it was without roads, incapable of land carriage and could not be traveled by civilized man, even on foot, without the aid of a savage guide and a permit from its native occupants which afforded little or no security to life or property. For these reasons the lakes and rivers, with their connecting portages, were the only highways, and they invited exploration. They afforded ready means of opening up the interior. The French, who were the first explorers, at an early day, as we shall hereafter see, established posts at Detroit, at the mouth of the Niagara River, at Mackinaw, Green Bay, on the Illinois Eiver, the St. Joseph's of Lake Michigan, on the Maumee, the Wabash, and at other places on the route of inter-lake and river communication. By means of having seized these strategical points, and their influence over the Indian tribes, the French monopolized the fur trade, and although feebly assisted by the home government, held the whole Mississippi Valley and regions of the lakes, for near three quarters of a century, against all efforts of the English colonies, eastward of the Alleghany ridge, who, assisted by England, sought to wrest it from their grasp. CHICAGO PORTAGE. 19 Kecurring to the old portage at Chicago, it is evident that at a com- paratively recent period, since the glacial epoch, a large part of Cook county was under vrater. The waters of Lake Michigan, at that time, found an outlet through the Desplaines and Illinois Rivers into the Mississippi.* This assertion is confirmed from the appearance of the whole channel of the Illinois River, which formerly contained a stream of much greater magnitude than now. The old beaches of Lake Michigan are plainly indicated in the ridges, trending westward several miles away from the present water line. The old state road, from Yincennes to Chicago, followed one of these ancient lake beaches from Blue Island into the city. The subsidence of the lake must have been gradual, requiring many ages to accomplish the change of direction in the flow of its waters from the Mississippi to the St. Lawrence. The character of the portage has also undergone changes within the memory of men still living. The excavation of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, and the drainage of the adjacent land by artificial ditches, has left little remaining from which its former appearance can now be recognized. Major Stephen H. Long, of the U. S. Topo- graphical Engineers, made an examination of this locality in the year 1823, before it had been changed by the hand of man, and says, con- cerning it, as follows : " The south fork of Chicago River takes its rise about six miles from the fort, in a swamp, which communicates also with the Desplaines, one of the head branches of the Illinois. Hav- ing been informed that this route was frequently used by traders, and that it had been traversed by one of the ofiicers of the garrison, — who returned with provisions from St. Louis a few days before our arrival at the fort, — we determined to ascend the Chicago River in order to observe this interesting division of waters. We accordingly left the fort on the 7th day of June, in a boat which, after having ascended the river four miles, we exchanged for a narrow pirogue that drew less water, — the stream we were ascending was very narrow, rapid and •crooked, presenting a great fall. It so continued for about three miles, when we reached a sort of a swamp, designated by the Canadian vcJ}^- agers under the name of 'Ze Petit Lac.'' \ Our course through this swamp, which extended three miles, was very much impeded by the high grass, weeds, etc., through which our pirogue passed with diffi- culty. Observing that our progress through the fen was slow, and the day being considerably advanced, we landed on the north bank, and continued our course along the edge of the swamp for about three * Geological Survey of Illinois, vol. 3, p. 240. ,t What remains of this lake is now known by the name of Mud Lake. 20 HISTOEIO NOTES OF THE NOKTHWEST. miles, until we reached the place where the old portage road meets the current, which was here very distinct toward the south. We were delighted at beholding, for the first time, a feature so interesting in itself, but which we had afterward an opportunity of observing fre- quently on the route, viz, the division of waters starting from the same source, and running in two different directions, so as to become feed- ers of streams that discharge themselves into the ocean at immense dis- tances apart. Lieut. Hobson, who accompanied us to the Desplaines, told us that he had traveled it with ease, in a boat loaded with lead and flour. The distance from the fort to the intersection of the port- age road is about twelve or thirteen miles, and the portage road is about eleven miles long ; the usual distance traveled by land seldom exceeds from four to nine miles ; however, in very dry seasons it is said to amount to thirty miles, as the portage then extends to Moiml Juliet, near the confluence of the Kankakee. Although at the time we visited it there was scarcely water enough to permit our pirogue to pass, we could not doubt that in the spring of the year the routft must be a very eligible one. It is equally apparent that an expendi- ture, trifling when compared to the importance of the object, would again render Lake Michigan a tributary of the Gulf of Mexico." * * Long's Expedition to the Source of the St. Peter's River, vol. 1, pp. 165, 166, 167. The State of Illinois begun work on the construction of a canal on this old portage on the 4th day of July, 1836, with great ceremony. Col. Guerdon S. Hubbard, still living, cast the first shovelful of earth out of it on this occasion. The work was completed in 1848. The canal was fed with water elevated by a pumping apparatus at Bridgeport. Recently the city of Chicago, at enormous expense sunk the bed of the canal to a depth that secures a flow of water directly from the lake, by means of which, the navigation is improved, and sewerage is obtained into the Illinois River. CHAPTER III. ANCIENT MAUMBE VALLEY. W"hat has been said of the changes in the surface geology of Lake Michigan and the Illinois Kiver may also be affirnied with respect to Lake Erie and the Maumee and "Wabash Rivers. There are peculiari- ties which will arrest the attention, from, a mere examination of the ■course of the Maumee and of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's Rivers, as they appear on the map of that part of Ohio and Indiana. The St. Joseph, after running southwest to its union with the St. Mary's at Ft. Wayne, as it were almost doubles back upon its former course, taking a northeast direction, forming the shape of a letter Y, and after having flowed over two hundred miles is discharged at a point within less than fifty miles east of its source. It is evident, from an exami- nation of that part of the country, that, at one time, the §t. Joseph ran wholly , to the - southwest, and that the Maumee River itself, instead of flowing northeast into Lake Erie, as now, drained this lake southwest through the present valley of the Wabash. Then Lake Erie extended very nearly to Ft. Wayne, and its ancient shores are still plainly marked. The line of the old beach is preserved in the ridges running nearly parallel with, and not a great distance from, the -St. Joseph and the St. Mary's Rivers. Professor G. K. Gilbert, in his report of the " Surface Geology of the Maumee Yalley," gives the result of his examination of these interesting features, from which we take the following valuable extract.* "The upper (lake) beach consists, in this region, of a single bold ridge of sand, pursuing a remarkably straight course in a northeast and southwest direction, and crossing portions of Defiance, Williams and Fulton counties. It passes just west of Hicksville and Bryan ; while Williams Center, West Unity and Fayette are built on it. When Lake Erie stood at this level, it was merged at the north with Lake Huron. Its southwest shore crossed Hancock, Putnam, Allen and Van Wert counties, and stretched northwest in Indiana, nearly to Ft. Wayne. The northwestern shore line, leaving Ohio near the south line of Defiance county, is likewise continued in Indiana, and the two converge at New Haven, six miles east of Ft. Wayne. They do not, * Geological Survey of Ohio, vol. 1, p. 550. 22 HISTORIC NOTES OF THE NORTHVVKST. however, unite, but, instead, become parallel, and are continued as the sides of a broad watercourse, through which the great lake basin then discharged its surplus waters, southwestwardly, into the valley of the "Wabash Eiver, and thence to the Mississippi. At New Haven, this channel is not less than a mile and a half broad, and has an average depth of twenty feet, with sides and bottom of drift. For twenty-five miles this character continues, and there is no notable fall. Three miles above Huntington, Indiana, however, the drift bottom is replaced by a floor of Niagara limestone, and the descent becomes comparatively quite rapid. At Huntington, the valley is walled, on one side at least, by rock in situ. In the eastern portion of this ancient river-bed, the Maumee and its branches have cut channels fifteen to twenty-five feet deep, without meeting the underlying limestone. Most of the inter- val from Ft. Wayne to Huntington is occupied by a marsh, over which meanders Little Kiver, an insignificant stream whose only claim .to the title of river seems to lie in the magnitude of the deserted channel of which it is sole occupant. At Huntington, the "Wabash emerges from a narrow cleft, of its own carving, and takes possession of the broad trough to which it was once an humble tributary." "Within the personal knowledge of men, the "Wabash Kiver has been, and is, only a rivulet, a shriveled, dried up representative in comparison with its greatness in pre-historic times, when it bore in a broader channel the waters of Lakes Erie and Huron, a mighty flood, souths ward to the Ohio. "Whether the change in the direction of the flow of Lakes Erie, Huron and Michigan toward the Eiver St. Lawrence, instead of through the "Wabash and Illinois Eivers respectively, is because hemispheric depression has taken place more rapidly in the vicinity of the lakes than farther southward, or that the earth's crust south of the lakes has been arched upward by subterraneous influences, and thus caused the lakes to recede, or if the change has been produced by depression in one direction and elevation in the other, combined, is not our province to discuss. The fact, however, is well established by the most abundant and conclusive evidence to the scientific observer. The portage, or carrying place, of the Wabash,* as known to the early explorers and traders, between the Maumee and Wabash, or rather the head of Little Eiver, called by the French " La Petit Eiviere," commenced directly at Ft. Wayne ; although, in certain seasons of the year, the waters approach much nearer and were united by a low piece ,o„.*^"^^°^l?'^?ff'^''^''*^^?^^"*'^^*^^°*'al Portions of the Mississippi Vallev "in thpwar 1821, pp^ 90 91 In this year Mr. Schoolcraft made an examZtion of' the locaC mth a view to furnish the pubhc information on the practicability of a canal to unite the waters of the Maumee and the Wabash. It was at a time when great irSt existed through all parts of the country on all subjects of internal navigation ^ POKTAGE OF THE WABASH. 23 of ground or marsh (an arm or bay of what is now called Bear Lake), where the two streams flow within one hundred and fifty yards of each other and admitted of the passage of light canoes from the one to the other. The Miami Indians knew the value of this portage, and it was a source of revenue to them, aside from its advantages in enabling them to exercise an influence over adjacent tribes. The French, in passing from Canada to New Orleans, and Indian traders going from Montreal and Detroit, to the Indians south and westward, went and returned by way of Ft. "Wayne, where the Miamis, kept carts and pack-horses, with a corps of Indians to assist in carrying canoes, furs and merchandise around the portage, for which they charged a commission. At the great treaty of Greenville, 1795, where General Anthony Wayne met the several Wabash tribes, he insisted, as one of the fruits of his victory over them, at the Fallen Timbers, on the Maumee, the year before, that they should cede to the United States a piece of ground six miles square, where the fort, named in honor of General Wayne, had been erected after the battle named, and on the site of the present city of Ft. Wayne ; and, also, a piece of territory two miles square at the carrying place. The distinguished warrior and statesman, " Mishe- kun-nogh-quah" (as he signs his name at this treaty), or the Little Turtle on behalf of his tribe, objected to a relinquishment of their right to their ancient village and its portage, and in his speech to General Wayne said : "Elder Brother, — When our forefathers saw the French, and English at the Miami village — that ' glorious gate ' which your younger brothers [meaning the Miamis] had the happiness to own, and through which all the good words of our chiefs had to pass [that is, messages between the several tribes] from north to south and from east to west, the French and English never told us they wished to purchase our lands from us. The next place you pointed out was the Little River, and said you wanted two miles square of that place. This is a request that our fathers the French or British never made of us ; it was always ours. This carrying place has heretofore proved, in a great degree, the subsistence of your brothers. That place has brought to us, in the course of one day, the amount of one hundred dollars. Let us both own this place and enjoy in common the advantages it affords." The Little Turtle's speech availed nothing.* The St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, a fine stream of uniform, rapid current, reaches its most southerly position near the city of South Bend, Indiana, — the city deriving its name from the hend of the river ; * Minutes of the Treaty of Greenville: American State Papers, on Indian Affairs. vol. 1, pp. 576, 578. 24 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. here the river turns northward, reenters the State of Michigan and dis- charges into the lake. West of the city is Lake Kankakee, from which the Kankakee Eiver takes it? rise. The distance intervening be- tween the head of this little lake and the St. Joseph is about two miles, over a piece of marshy ground, where the elevation is so slight " that in the year 1832 a Mr. Alexander Croquillard dug a race, and secured a ilow of water from the lake to the St. Joseph, of sufficient power to run a grist and saw mill." * This is the portage of the Kankakee, a place conspicuous for its historical reminiscences. It was much used, and offered a choice of routes to the Illinois Eiver, and also to the Wabash, by a longer land- carriage to the upper waters of the Tippecanoe. A memoir on the Indians of Canada, etc., prepared in the year 1718 (Paris Documents, vol. 1, p. 889), says : " The river St. Joseph is south of Lake Michi- gan, formerly the Lake of the Illinois ; many take this river to pass to the Eocks [as Fort St. Louis, situated on ' Starved Eock ' in La Salle county, Illinois, was sometimes called], because it is convenient, and they thereby avoid the portages ^ des Chaines^ and ^des Perches,^" — two long, difficult carrying places on the Desplaines, which had to be encountered in dry seasons, on the route by the way of Chicago Creek. The following description of the Kankakee portage, and its adjacent surroundings, is as that locality appeared to Father Hennepin, when he was there with La Salle's party of voyagers two hundred years ago the coming December : " The next morning (December 5, 1679) we joined our men at the portage, where Father Gabriel had made the day before several crosses upon the trees, that we might not miss it another time." The voyagers had passed above the portage without being aware of it, as the country was all strange to them. We found here a great quan- tity of horns and bones of wild oxen, buffalo, and also some canoes the savages had made with the skins of beasts, to cross the river with their provisions. This portage lies at the farther end of a champaign ; and at the other end to the west lies a village of savages, Miamis Mascoutines and Oiatinons (Weas), who live together. " The river of the Illinois has its source near that village, and springs out of some marshy lands that are so quaking that one can scarcely walk over them. The head of the river is only a league and a half from that of the Mi- amis (the St. Joseph), and so our portage was not long. We marked the way from place to place, with some trees, for the convenience of those we expected after us ; and left at the portage as well as at Fort * Pro/ • G. M. Levette's Report on the Geology of St. Joseph County: Geological Survey of Indiana for the year 1873, p. 459. "' "B'^i" THE KAKKAKEE. 25 Mianiis (which they had previously erected at the mouth of the St. Joseph), letters hanging down from the trees, containing M. La Salle's instriTCtions to our pilot, and the other five-and-twenty men who were to come with him." The pilot had been sent back from Mackinaw with La Salle's ship, the Griffin, loaded with furs ; was to discharge the cargo at the fort below the mouth of Niagara Kiver, and then bring the ship with all dispatch to the St. Joseph. " The Illinois Kiver (continues Hennepin's account) is navigable within a hundred paces from its source, — I mean for canoes of barks of trees, and not for others, — but increases so much a little way from thence, that it is as deep and broad as the Meuse and the Sambre joined together. It runs through vast marshes, and although it be rapid enough, it makes so many turnings and windings, that after a whole day's journey we found that we were hardly two leagues from the place we left in the morning. That country is nothing but marshes,. full of alder trees and bushes ; and we could have hardly found, for forty leagues together, any place to plant our cabins, had it not been for the frost, which made the earth more firm and consistent." CHAPTER IV. RAINFALL. An interesting topic connected with our rivers is the question of rainfall. The streams of the west, unlike those of mountainous dis- tricts, which are fed largely by springs and brooks issuing from the rocks, are supplied mostly from the clouds. It is within the observa- tion of persons who lived long in the valleys of the Wabash and Illinois, or along their tributaries, that these streams apparently carry a less volume of water than formerly. Indeed, the water-courses seem to be gradually drying up, and the whole surface of the country drained by them has undergone the same change. In early days almost every land-owner on the prairies had upon his farm a pond that furnished an unfailing supply of water for his live stock the year around. These never went dry, even in the driest seasons. Formerly the "Wabash afforded reliable steamboat navigation as high up as La Fayette. In 1831, between the 5th of March and the 16th of April, fifty-four steamboats arrived and departed from Yin- cennes. In the months of February, March and April of the same year, there were sixty arrivals and departures from La Fayette, then a village of only three or four hundred houses ; many of these boa^ were large side-wheel steamers, built for navigating the Ohio and Mississippi, and known as New Orleans or lower river boats.* The writer has the concurrent evidence of scores of early settlers with whom he has con- versed that formerly the Vermilion, at Danville, had to be ferried on an average six months during the year, and the river was considered low when it could be forded at this place without water running into the wagon bed. Now it is fordable at all times, except when swollen with freshets, which now subside in a very few days, atid often within as many hours. Doubtless, the same facts can be affirmed of the many other tributaries of the Illinois and Wabash whose names have been already given. The early statutes of Illinois and Indiana are replete with special laws, passed between the years 1825 and 1840, when the people of these two states were crazed over the question of internal navigation, providing enactments and charters for the slack-water improvement of * Tanner's View of the Mississippi, published in 1833. p. 154. 26 EAINFALL. 27 hundreds of streams whose insignificance have now only a dry bed, most of the year, to indicate that they were ever dignified with such legislation and invested with the promise of bearing upon their bosoms a portion of the future internal commerce of the country. It will not do to assume that the seeming decrease of water in the streams is caused by a diminution of rain. The probabilities are that the annual rainfall is greater in Indiana and Illinois than before their settlement with a permanent population. The "settling up" of a country, tilling its soil, planting trees, constructing railroads, and erect- ing telegraph lines, all tend to induce moisture and produce changes in the electric and atmospheric currents that invite the clouds to pre- cipitate their showers. Such has been the effect produced by the hand of man upon the hitherto arid plains of Kansas and Nebraska. Indeed, at an early day some portions of Illinois were considered as uninhab- itable as western Kansas and Nebraska were supposed, a few years ago, to be on account of the prevailing drouths. That part of the state lying between the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, south of a line run- ning from the Mississippi, between Rock Island and Mercer counties, east to the Illinois, set off for the benefit of the soldiers of the War of 1812, and for that reason called the " Military Tract," except that part of it lying more immediately near the rivers named, was laid under the bane of a drouth-stricken region. Mr. Lewis A. Beck, a shrewd and impartial observer, and a gentleman of great scientific attainments,* was through the " military tract " shortly after it had been run out into sections and townships by the government, and says concerning it, "The northern part of the tract is not so favorable for settlement. The prairies become very extensive and are badly watered. In fact,, this last is an objection to the whole tract. In dry seasons it is not unusual to walk through beds of the largest streams without finding a drop of water. It is not surprising that a country so far distant from the sea and drained by such large rivers, which have a course of several thousand miles before they reach the great reservoir, should not be well watered. This, we observe, is the case with all fine-flowing streams of the highlands, whereas those of the Champaign and prairies settle in the form of ponds, which stagnate and putrify. Besides, on the same account there are very few heavy rains in the summer ; and hence during that season water is exceedingly scarce. The Indians, in their journeys, pass by places where they know there are ponds, but gener- ally they are under the necessity of carrying water in bladders. This drouth is not confined to the ' military tract,' but in some seasons is very general. During the summer of 1820 it was truly alarming; * Beck's Illinois and Missouri Gazetteer, published in 1823, pp, 79, 80. 28 HISTOBIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. travelers, in many instances, were obliged to pass whole days, in the warmest weather, without being able to procure a cupful of water for themselves or their horses, and that which they occasionally did find was almost putrid. It may be remarked, however, that such seasons rarely occur; but on account of its -being washed by rivers of such immense length this section of the country is peculiarly liable to suffer from excessive drouth." The millions of bushels of grain annually raised in, and the vast herds of cattle and other live stock that are fat- tened on, the rich pastures of Bureau, Henry, Stark, Peoria, Knox, "Warren, and other counties lying wholly or partially within the " mili- tary tract," illustrate an increase and uniformity of rainfall since the time Professor Beck recorded his observations. In no part of Illinois are the crops more abundant and certain, and less liable to suffer from excessive drouth, than in the " military tract." The apparent decrease in the volume of water carried by the "Wabash and its tributaries is easily reconciled with the theory of an increased rainfall since the settlement of the country. These streams for the most part have their sources in ponds, marshes and low grounds. These basins, covering a great extent of the surface of the country, served as reservoirs ; the earth was cov- ered with a thick turf that prevented the water penetrating the ground ; tall grasses in the valleys and about the margin of the ponds impeded the flow of water, and fed it out gradually to the rivers. In the tim- ber the marshes were likewise protected from a rapid discharge of their contents by the trunks of fallen trees, limbs and leaves. Since the lands have been reduced to cultivation, millions of acres of sod have been broken by the plow, a spongy surface has been turned to the heavens and much of the rainfall is at once soaked into the ground. The ponds and low grounds have been drained. The tall grasses with their mat of penetrating roots have disappeared from the swales. The brooks and drains, from causes partially natural, or artifi- cially aided by man, have cut through the ancient turf and made well defined ditches. The rivers themselves have worn a deeper passage in their beds. By these means the water is now soon collected from the earth's surface and carried off with increased velocity. Formerly the streams would sustain their volume continuously for weeks. Hence much of the rainfall is directly taken into the ground, and only a por- tion of it now finds its way to the rivers, and that which does has a speedier exit. Besides this, settlement of and particularly the growing of trees on the prairies and the clearing out of the excess of forests in the timbered districts, tends to distribute the rainfall more evenly through- out the year, and in a large degree prevents the recurrence of those ex- tremes of drouth and flood with which this country was formerly visited. CHAPTER V. ORIGIN OF THE PRAIRIES. The prairies have ever been a wonder, and their origin the theme of much curious speculation. The vast extent of these natural meadows would naturally excite curiosity, and invite the many theories which, from time to time, have been advanced by writers holding conflicting opinions as to the manner in which they were formed. Major Stod- dard, H. M. Brackenridge and Governor Reynolds, whose personal acquaintance with the prairies, eastward of the Mississippi, extended back prior to the year 1800, and whose observations were supported by the experience of other contemporaneous residents of the west, held that the prairies were caused by fire. The, prairies are covered with grass, and were probably occasioned by the ravages of fire; because wherever copses of trees were found on them, the grounds about them are low and too moist to admit the fire to pass over it ; and because it is a cominon practice among the Indians and other hunters to set the woods and prairies on fire, by means of which they are able to kill an abundance of game. They take secure stations to the leeward, and the. fire drives the game to them.* The plains of Indiana and Illinois have been mostly produced by the same cause. They are very different from the Savannahs on tjie seaboard and the immense plains of the upper Missouri. In the prairies of Indiana I have been assured that the woods in places have been known to recede, and in others to increase, within the recolleertion of the old inhabitants. In moist places, the woods are still standing, the fire meeting here, with obstruction. Trees, if planted in these prairies, would doubtless grow. In the islands, preserved by accidental causes, the progress of the fire can be traced ; the first burning would only scorch the outer bark of the tree; this would render it more susceptible to the next, the third would completely kill. I have seen in places, at present completely prairie, pieces of burnt trees, proving that the prairie had been caused by fire. The ^rass is generally very luxuriant, which is not the case in the plains, of the Missouri.. There may, doubtless, be spots where the proportion of salts or other bodies may be such as to favor the growth of grass only.f * Sketches of Louisiana, by Major Amos Stoddard, p. 813. t Brackenridge's Views of Louisiana, p. 108. 30 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. Governor Eeynolds, who came to Illinois at the age of thirteen, in the year 1800, and lived here for over sixty years, the greater portion of his time employed in a "public capacity, roving over the prairies in the Indian border wars or overseeing the affairs of a public and busy life, in his interesting autobiography, published in 1855, says: "Many learned essays are written on the origin of the prairies, but any atten- tive observer will come to the conclusion that it is fire burning the strong, high grass that . caused the prairies.' I have witnessed the growth of the forest in these southern counties of Illinois, and know there is more timber in them now than there was forty or fifty years before. The obvious reason is, the fire is kept out. This is likewise the reason the prairies are generally the most fertile soil. The vegeta- tion in them was the strongest and the fires there burnt with the most power. The timber was destroyed more rapidly in the fertile soil than in the barren lands. It will be seen that the timber in the north of the state, is found only on the margins of streams and other places where the prairie fires could not reach it." The later and more satisfactory theory is, that the prairies were formed by the action of water instead of fire. This position was taken and very ably discussed by that able and learned writer, Judge James Hall, as early as 1836. More recently. Prof. Lesquereux prepared an article on the origin and formation of the prairies, published at length in vol. 1,, Geological Survey of Illinois, pp. 238 to 254, inclusive ; and Dr. Worthen, the head of the Illinois Geological Department, referring to this article and its author, gives to both a most flattering indorsement. Declining to discuss the comparative merits of the various theories as to the formation of the prairies, the doctor " refers the reader to the very able chapter on the subject by Prbf. Lesquereux, whose thorough acquaintance, both with fossil and recent botany, and the general laws which govern the distribution of the ancient as well as the recent flora, entitles his opinion to our most profound consideration." * Prof. Lesquereux' aricle . is exhaustive, and his conclusions are summed up in the declaration " that all the prairies of the Mississippi Valley have been formed by the slow recessions of waters of various extent; first transformed into swamps, and in the process of time drained and dried; and that the high rolling prairies, and those of these bottoms along the rivers as well, are all the result of the same cause, and form one whole, indivisible system." Still later, another eminent writer, Hon. John D. Caton, late Judge of the Supreme Court of Illinois, has given the result of his observa- *Chap. 1, p. 10, Geology of Illinois, by Dr. Worthen; vol. 1, Illinois Geoloeical Survey. ^ THE PRAIEIES. 31 tions. While assenting to the received conchision that the prairies — the land itself — have been formed under water, except the decomposed animal and vegetable matter that has been added to the surface of the lands since their emergence, the judge dissents from Prof. Lesquereux, in so far as the latter holds that the p|^sence of ulmic acid and other unfavorable chemicals in the soil of the prairies, rendered them unfit for the growth of trees ; and in extending his theory to the prairies on the uplands, as well as in their more level and marshy portions. The learned judge holds to the popular theory that the most potent cause ' in keeping the prairies as such, and retarding and often destroying forest growth on them, is the agency of fire. Whatever may have been the condition of the ground when the prairie lands first emerged from the waters, or the chemical changes they may have since under- gone, how many years the process of vegetable growth and decay may have gone on, adding their deposits of rich loam to the original sur- face, making the soil the most fertile in the world, is a matter of mere speculation ; certain it is, however, that ever within the knowledge of man the prairies have possessed every element of soil necessary to in- sure a rapid and vigorous growth of forest trees, wherever the germ coxild find a lodgment and their tender years be protected against the one formidable enemy, fire. Judge Caton gives the experience of old settlers in the northern part of the state, similar to that of Bracken- ridge and Reynolds, already quoted, where, on the Vermillion Eiver of the Illinois, and also in the neighborhood of Ottawa many years ago, fires occurred under the observation of the narrators, which utterly destroyed, root and branch, an entire hardwood forest, the prairie taking immediate possession of the burnt district, clothing it with grasses of its own ; and in a few years this forest land, reclaimed to prairie, could not be distinguished from the praii'ie itself, except from its greater luxuriance. Judge Caton's illustration of how the forests obtain a foot-hold in the prairies is so aptly expressed, and in Wch harmony with the ex- perience of every old settler on the prairies of eastern Illinois and western Indiana, that we quote it. " The cause of the absence of trees on the upland prairies is the problem most important to the agricultural interests of our state, and it is the inquiry which alone I propose to consider, but cannot resist the remark that wherever we do find timber throughout this broad field of prairie, it is always in or near the humid portions of it, — as along the margins of streams, or upon or near the springy uplands. Many most luxuriant groves are found on the highest portions of the uplands, but always in the neighborhood of water. For a remarkable 32 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. example I may refer to that great chain of groves extending from and including the Au Sable Grove on the east and Ilolderman's Grove on the west, in Kendall county, occupying the high divide between the waters of the Illinois and the Fox Eivers. In and around all the groves flowing springs abound, and some of them are separated by marshes, to the very borders o* which the great trees approach, as if the forest were ready to seize upon each yard of ground as soon as it is elevated above the swamps. Indeed, all our groves seem to be located where water is so disposed as to protect them, to a great or less extent, from the prairie fire, although not so situated as to irrigate them. If the head-waters of the streams on the prairies are most frequently with- out timber, so soon as they have attained sufficient volume to impede the progress of the fires, with very few exceptions we find forests on their borders, becoming broader and more vigorous as the magnitude of the streams increase. It is manifest that land located on the borders of streams which the fire cannot pass are only exposed to one-half the fires to which they would be exposed but for such protection. This tends to show, at least, that if but one-half the fires that have occurred had been kindled, the arboraceous growth could have withstood their destructive infiuences, and the whole surface of what is now prairie would be forest. Another confirmatory fact, patent to all observers, is, that the prevailing winds upon the prairies, especially in the autumn, are from the west, and these give direction to the prairie fires. Conse- quently, the lands on the' westerly sides of the streams are the most exposed to the fires, and, as might be expected, we find much the most timber on the easterly sides of the streams." "Another fact, always a subject of remark among the dwellers on the prairies, I regard as conclusive proof that the prairie soils are pecu- liarly adapted to the growth of trees is, that wherever the fires have been kept from the groves by the settlers, they have rapidly encroached upon the prairies, unless closely depastured by the farmers' stock, or prevented by cultivation.. * This fact I regard as established by careful observation of more than thirty-five years, during which I have been an interested witness of the settlement of this country, — from the time when a few log cabins, many miles apart, built in the borders of the groves, alone were met with, till now nearly the whole of the great prairies in our state, at least, are brought under cultivation by the in- dustry of the husbandman. Indeed, this is a fact as well recognized by the settlers as that corn will grow upon the prairies when properly cultivated. Ten years ago I heard the observation made by intelligent men, that within the preceding twenty-five years the area of the timber in the prairie portions of the state had actually doubled by the sponta- FOREST EKCROACHMENT. 33 neous extension of the natural groves. However this may be, certain it is that the encroachments of the timber upon the prairies have Ijeen universal and rapid, wherever not impeded by fire or other physical causes." When Europeans first landed in America, as they left the dense forests east of the AUeghanies and went west over the mountains into the valleys beyond, anywhere between Lake Erie and the fortieth* degree of latitude, approaching the Scioto Kiver, they would h^ve seen small patches of country destitute of timber. These were called open- ings. As they proceeded farther toward the Wabash the number and area of these openings or barrens would increase. These last were called by the English savannahs or nieadows, and by the French, prairies. Westward of the Wabash, except occasional tracts of timbered lands in northern Indiana, and fringes of forest growth along the inter- vening water-courses, the prairies stretch westward continuously across a part of Indiana and the whole of Illinois to the Mississippi. Taking the line of the Wabash railway, which crosses Illinois in its greatest breadth, and beginning in Indiana, where the railway leaves the tim- ber, west of the Wabash nearMarshfield, the prairie extends to Quincy, a distance of more than two hundred and fifty miles, and its contin- uity the entire way is only broken by four strips of timber along four streams running at right angles with the route of the railway, namely the timber on the Vermillion Eiver, between Danville and the Indiana state-line, the Sangamon, seventy miles west of Danville near Decatur, the Sangamon again a few miles east of Springfield, and the Illinois Kiver at Meredosia ; and all of the timber at the crossing of these several streams, if put together, would not aggregate fifteen miles against the two hundred and fifty miles of prairie. Taking a north and south direction and parallel with the drainage of the rivers, one could start near Ashley, on the Illinois Central railway, in Washing- ton county, and going northward, nearly on an air-line, keeping on the divide between the Kaskaskia and Little Wabash, the Sangamon and the Vermillion, the Iroquois and the Vermillion of. the Illinois, cross- ing the latter stream between the mouths of the Fox and Du Page and travel through to the state of Wisconsin, a distance of nearly three hundred miles, without encountering five miles of timber during the whole journey. Mere figures of distances across the " Grand Prairie," as this vast meadow was called by the old settlers, fail to give an ade- quate idea of its magnitude. Let the reader, in fancy, go back fifty or sixty years, when there were no farms between the settlement on the North Arm Prairie, in Edgar county, and Ft. Clark, now Peoria, on the Illinois River, or 3 34 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. between the Salt Works, west of Danville, and Ft. Dearborn, where Chicago now is, or when there was not a house between the Wabash and Illinois Rivers in the direction of La Fayette and Ottawa; when there was not a solitary road to mark the way ; when Indian trails alone led to unknown places, where no animals except the wild deer and slinking wolf would stare, the one with timid wonder, the other with treacherous leer, upon the ventursome traveler; when the gentle winds moved the supple grasses like waves of a green sea under the sum- mer's sky; — the beauty, the grandeur and solitude of the prairies may- be imagined as they were a reality to the pioneer when he first beheld them. There is an essential diiference between the prairies eastward of the Mississippi and the great plains westward necessary to be borne ia mind. The western plains, while they present a seeming level appear, ance to the eye, rise rapidly to the westward. From Kansas City to Pueblo the ascent is continuous ; beyond Ft. Dodge, the plains, owing to their elevation and consequent dryness of the atmosphere and absence of rainfall, produce a thin and stunted vegetation. The prai- ries of Illinois and Indiana, on the contrary, are much nearer the sea- level, where the moisture is greater. There were many ponds and sloughs which aided in producing a humid atmosphere, all which induced a rank growth of grasses. All early writers, referring to thb vegetation of our prairies, including Fathers Hennepin, St. Cosme, Charlevoix and others, who recorded their personal observations nearly two hundred years ago, as well as later English and American travel- ers, bear uniform testimony to the fact of an unusually luxuriant growth of grasses. Early settlers, in the neighborhood of the author, all bear witness to the rank growth of vegetation on the prairies before it was grazed by live stock, and supplanted with shorter grasses, that set in as the country improved. Since the organization of Edgar county in 1823, — of which all the territory north to the Wisconsin line was then a part, — on the level prairie between the present sites of Danville and Georgetown, the grass grew so high that it was a source of amusement to tie the tops over the withers of a horse, and in places the height ot the grass would nearly obscure both horse and rider from view. Thia was not a slough, but on arable land, where some of the first farms in Vermillion county were broken out. On the high rolling prairies tha vegetation was very much shorter, though thick and compact ; its aver- age height being about two feet. The prairie fires have been represented in exaggerated pictures of men and wild animals retreating at full speed, with every mark of ter- PRAIRIE FIRES. 35 ror, before the devouring element. Such pictures are overdrawn. In- stances of loss of human life, or animals, may have sometimes occurred. The advance of the fire is rapid or slow, as the wind may be strong or light ; the flames leaping high in the air in their progress over level ground, or burning lower over the uplands. "When a fire starts under favorable causes, the horizon gleams brighter and brighter until a fiery redness rises above its dark outline, while heavy, slow-moving masses of dark clouds curve upward above it. In another moment the blaze itself shoots up, first at one spot then at another, advancing until the whole hforizon extending across a wide prairie is clothed with fiames, that roll and curve and dash onward and upward like waves of a burn- ing ocean, lighting up the landscape with the brilliancy of noon-day. A roaring, crackling sound is heard like the rushing of a hurricane. The flame, which in general rises to the height of twenty feet, is seen rolling its waves against each other as the liquid, fiery mass moves for- ward, leaving behind it a blackened surface on the ground, and long trails of murky smoke floating above. A more terriflc sight than the burning prairies in early days can scarcely be conceived. "Woe to the farmer whose fields extended into the prairie, and who had sufiered the tall grass to grow near his fences ; the labor of the year would be fiwept away in a few hours. Such accidents occasionally occurred, although the preventive was simple. The usual remedy was to set fire against fire, or to burn oif a strip of grass in the vicinity of the improved ground, a beaten road, the treading of domestic animals about the inclosure of the farmer, would generally afi'ord protection. In other cases a few furrows would be plowed around the field, or the grass closely mowed between the outside of the fence and the open prairie.* • ISTo wonder that the Indians, noted for their naming a place or thing from some of its distinctive peculiarities, should have called the prairies Mas-ko-tia, or the place of fire. In the ancient Algon- quin tongue, as well as in its more modern form of the Ojibbeway (or Chippeway,as this people are improperly designated), the word scoutay means fire ; and in the Illinois and Pottowatamie, kindred dialects, it is scotte and seutay, respectively.! It is also eminently characteristic that the Indians, who lived and hunted exclusively upon the prairies, were known among their red brethren as " Maskoutes," rendered by the French writers, Maskoutines, or People of the Fire or Prairie Country. North of a line drawn west from Yincennes, Illinois is wholly * Judge James Hall: Tales of the Border, p. 244; Statistics of the West, p. 83. t Gsdiatin's Synopsis of the Indian Tribes, etc. 36 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST, prairie, — always excepting the thin curtain of timber draping the water-courses ; and all that part of Indiana lying north and west of the Wabash, embracing fully one-third of the area of the state, is essentially so. Of the twenty-seven counties in Indiana, lying wholly or partially west and north of the "Wabash, twelve of them are prairie ; seven are mixed prairies, barrens and timber, the barrens and prairie predomi- nating. In five, the barrens, with the prairies, are nearly equal to the timber, while only three of the counties can be characterized as heavily timbered. And wherever timber does occur in these twenty-seven counties, it is found in localities favorable to its protection against the ravages of fire, by the proximity of intervening lakes, marshes or water-courses. We cannot know how long it took the forest to ad- vance from the Scioto; how often capes and points of trees, like skir- mishers of an army, secured a foothold to the eastward of the lakes and rivers of Ohio and Indiana, only to be driven back again by the prairie fires advancing from the opposite direction ; or conceive how many generations of forest growth were consumed by the prairie fires before the timber-line was pushed westward across the state of Ohio, and through Indiana to the banks of the Wabash. The prairies of Illinois and Indiana were born of water and pre- served by fire for the children of civilized men, who have come and taken possession of them. The manner of their coming, and the difiS- culties that befell them on the way, will hereafter be considered. The white man, like the forests, advanced from the east. The red man, like the prairie fires, as we shall hereafter see, came from the west. CHAPTER VI. EARLY DISCOVERIES. Having given a description of the lakes and rivers, and noticed some of tlie more prominent features that characterize the physical geography of the territory within the scope of our inquiry, and the parts necessarily connected with it, forming,' as it were, the outlines or ground plan of its history, we will now proceed to fill in the frame- work, with a narration of its discovery. Jacques Cartier, as already intimated in a note on a preceding page, ascended the St. Lawrence Kiver in 1535. He sailed up the stream as far as the great Indian vil- lage of Hoc Lelaga, situated on an island at the foot of the mountain, fityled by him Mont Royal, now called Montreal, a name since extend- ed to the whole island. The coimtry thiis discovered was called New France. Later, and in the year 1598, France, after fifty years of domestic troubles, recovered her tranquillity, and, finding herself once more equal to great enterprises, acquired a taste for colonization. Her attention was directed to her possessions, by right of discovery, in the new world, where she now wished to estaj^lish colonies and extend the faith of the Catholic religion. Commissions or grants were accordingly issued to companies of merchants, and others organized for this pur- pose, who undertook to make settlements in Acadia, as Nova Scotia was then called, and elsewhere along the lower waters of the St. Law- rence; and, at a later day, like efforts were made higher up the river. In 1607 Mr. De Monts, having failed in a former enterprise, was deprived of his commission, which was restored to him on the condition that he would make a settlement on the St. Lawrence. The company he represented seems to have had the fur trade only in view, and this object caused it to change its plans and avoid Acadia altogether. De Monts' company increased in numbers and capital in proportion as the fnr trade developed expectations of profit, and many persons at St. Malo, particularly, gave it their support. Feeling that his name injured his associates, M. De Monts retired ; and when he ceased to be its governing head, the company of merchants recovered the monopoly with which the charter was endowed, for no other object than making money out of the fur trade. They cared nothing whatever for the col- ony in Acadia, which was dying out, and made no settlements else- 38 HISTORIC NOtES ON THE NOETHWEST. where. However, Mr. Samuel Champlain, who cared little for the fur trade, and whose thoughts were those of a patriot, after maturely ex- amining where the settlements directed by the court might be best established, at last fixed on Quebec. He arrived there on the 3d of July, 1608, put up some temporary buildings for himself and company, and began to clear off the ground, which proved fertile.* The colony at Quebec grew apace with emigrants from France; and later, the establishment of a settlement at the island of Montreal was undertaken. Two religious enthusiasts, the one named Jerome le Eoyer de la Dauversiere, of Anjou, and the other John James Olier, assumed the undertaking in 1636. The next who joined in the move- ment was Peter Chevirer, 'Baron Fancamp, who in 1640 sent tools and provisions for the use of the coming settlers. The projectors were now aided by the celebrated Baron de Rent}-^, and two others. Father Charles Lalemant induced John de Lauson, the proprietor of the island of Montreal, to cede it to these gentlemen, which he did in August, 1640 ; and to remove all doubts as to the title, the associates obtained a grant from the New France Company, in December of the same year, which was subsequently ratified by the king himself. The associates agreed to send out forty settlers, to clear and cultivate the ground ; to increase the number annually ; to supply them with two sloops, cattle and farm hands, and, after five years, to erect a seminary, maintain ecclesiastics as missionaries and teachers, and also nuns as teachers and hospitalers. On its part the New France Company agreed to trans- port thirty settlers. The associates then contributed twenty-five thou- sand crowns to begin the settlement, and Mr. de Maisonneuve embarked with his colony on three vessels, which sailed from Ebchelle and Dieppe, in the summer of 1641. The colony wintered in Quebec, spending their time in building boats and preparing timber for their houses ; and on the 8th of May, 1642, embarked, and arrived nine days after at the island of Montreal, and after saying mass began an intrenchment around their tents.f Notwithstanding the severity of the climate, the loss of life by dis- eases incident to settling of new countries, and more especially the * History of New France. tFrom Dr. Shea's valuable note on Montreal, on pages 129 and 130 vol 3 of his translation of Father Charlevoix' History of New France. Mr. Albach', publisher of Annals of the West, Pittsburgh edition, 1857, p. 49, is in error in saying that Montreal was founded in 1613, by Samuel Champlain. Champlain, in company with a young Huron Indian, whom he had taken to and brought back from France on a previous voyage, visited the island of Montreal in 1611, and chose it as a place for a settlement he designed to establish, but which he did not begin, as he was obliged to return to i ranee; vide Charlevoix' " History of New France," vol. 3, p 23 The Ameri- can Clycl.opedia, as well as other authorities, concur with Dr. Shea, tlat Montreal was founded in 1642, seven years after Champlain 's death. QUEBEC FOUNDED. 39 destruction of its people from raids of the dreaded Iroquois Indians, the French colonies grew until, according to a report of Governor Mons. Denonville to the Minister at Paris, the population of Canada, in 1686, had increased to 12,373 souls. Quebec and Montreal became the base of operations of the French in America; the places from which missionaries, traders and explorers went out among the savages into countries hitherto unknown, going northward and westward, even beyond the extremity of Lake Superior to the upper waters of the Mississippi, and southward to the Gulf of Mexico; and it was from these cities that the religious, military and commercial affairs of this widely extended region were administered, and from which the French settlements subsequently established in the northwest and at New Orleans were principally recruited. The influence of Quebec and Montreal did not end with the fall of French power in America. It was from these cities that the English retained control of the fur trade in, and exerted a power over the Indian tribes of, the northwest that harassed and retarded the spread of the American settlements through all the revolutionary war, and during the later contest between Great Britain and the United States in the war of 1812. Indeed, it was only until after the fur trade was exhausted and the Indians placed beyond the Mississippi, subsequent to 1820, that Quebec and Montreal ceased to exert an influence in that part of New France now known as Illinois and Indiana. Father Claude Allouez, coasting westward from Sault Ste. Marie, reached Chegoimegon, as the Indians called the bay south of the Apos- tle Islands and near La Pointe on the southwestern shore of Lake Supe- rior, in October, 1665. Here he found ten or twelve fragments of Algonquin tribes assembled and about to hang the war kettle over the fire preparatory for an incursion westward into the territory of .the Sioux. The good father persuaded them to give up their intended hostile expedition. He set up in their midst a chapel, to which he gave the name of the " Mission of the Holy Ghost," at the spot afterward known as "Lapointe du Saint Esprit," and at once began his mission work. His chapel was an object of wonder, and its establishment soon spread among the wild children of the forest, and thither from great distances came numbers all alive with curiosity, — the roving Potta- watomies. Sacs and Foxes, the Kickapoos, the Illinois and Miamis, — to whom the truths of Christianity were announced.* Three years later Father James Marquette took the place of Allouez, and while here he seems to have been the first that learned of the Missis- sippi. In a letter written from this mission by Father Marquette to * Shea's History of Catholic Missions, 358. 40 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. his Eeverend Father Superior, preserved in the Eelations for 1669 and 1670, he says : " "When the Illinois come to the point they pass a great river, which is almost a league in width. It flows from north to south, and to so great a distance that the Illinois, who know nothing of the use of the canoe, have never as yet heard tell of the mouth ; they only know that there are great nations below them, some of whom, dwelling to the east-southeast of their country, gather their Indian-corn twice a year. A nation that they call Chaouanon (Shawnees) came to visit them during the past summer; the young man that has been given to me to teach me the language has seen them ; they were loaded with glass beads, which shows that they have communication with the Europeans. They had to journey across the land for more than thirty days before arriving at their country. It is hardly probable that this great river discharges itself in Virginia. "We are more inclined to believe that it has its mouth in California. If the savages, who have promised to make me a canoe, do not fail in their word, we will navi- gate this river as far as is possible in company with a Frenchman and this young man that they have given me, who understands several of these languages and possesses great facility for acquiring others. We shall visit the nations who dwell along its shores, in order to open the way to many of our fathers who for a long time have awaited this happiness. This discovery will give us a perfect knowledge of the sea either to the south or to the west." These reports concerning the great river came to the knowledge of the authorities at Quebec and Paris, and naturally enough stimu- lated further inquiry. There were three theories as to where the river emptied ; one, that it discharged into the Atlantic south of the British colony of Virginia ; second, that it flowed into the Gulf of Mexico ; and third, which was the more popular belief, that it emptied into the Ked Sea, as the Gulf of California was called ; and if the latter, that it would afi"ord a passage to China. To solve this important commercial problem in geography, it was determined, as appears from a letter from the Governor, Count Frontenac, at Quebec, to M. Colbert, Minister of the navy at Paris, expedient " for the service to send Sieur Joliet to the country of the Mascoutines, to discover the South Sea and the great river — they call the Mississippi — which is supposed to discharge itself into the Sea of California. Sieur Joliet is a man of great experience in these sorts of discoveries, and has already been almost to that great river, the mouth of which he promises to see. We shall have intelli- gence of him, certainly, this summer.* Father Marquette was chosen to accompany Joliet on account of the information he had already ob- * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 92. SPANISH EXPLOKATIOKS. 41 tained from the Indians relating to the countries to be explored, and also because, as he wrote Father Dablon, his superior, when informed by the latter that he was to be Joliet's companion, " I am ready to go on your order to seek new nations toward the South Sea, and teach them of our great God whom tliey hitherto have not known." The voyage of Joliet and Marquette is so interesting that we intro- duce extracts from Father Marquette's journal. The version we adopt is Father Marquette's original journal, prepared for publication by his superior. Father Dablon, and which lay in manuscript at Quebec, among the archives of the Jesuits, until 1852, when it, together with Father Marquette's original map, were brought to light, translated into Eng- lish, and published by Dr. John G. Shea, in his " Discovery and Explo- ration of the Mississippi." The version commonly sanctioned was Marquette's narrative sent to the French government, where it lay unpublished until it came into the hands of M. Thevenot, wbo printed it at Paris, in a book issued by him in 1681, called " Eeceuil de Voy- ages." This account differs somewhat, though not essentially, from the narrative as published by Dr. Shea. Before proceeding farther, however, we will turn aside a moment to note the fact that Spain had a prior right over France to the Missis- sippi "Valley by virtue of previous discovery. As early as the year 1525, Cortez had conquered Mexico, portioned out its rich mines among his favorites and reduced the inoffensive inhabitants to the worst of slavery, making them till the groimd and toil in the mines for their unfeeling masters. A few years following the conquest of Mexico, the Spaniards, under Pamphilus de ISTarvaez, in 1528, undertook to conquer and colonize Florida and the entire northern coast-line of the Gulf. After long and fruitless wanderings in the interior, his party returned to the sea-coast and endeavored to reach Tampico, in wretched boats. Nearly all perished by storm, disease or famine. The survivors, with one Cabeza de Yaca at their head, drifted to an island near the present state of Mississippi ; from which, after four years of slavery, De Vaca, with four companions, escaped to the mainland and started westward, going clear across the continent to the Gulf of California. The natives took them for supernatural beings. They assumed the guise of jugglers, and the Indian tribes, through which they passed, invested them with the title of medicine-men, and their lives were thus guarded with superstitious awe. They are, perhaps, the first Europeans who ever went overland from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They must have crossed the Great River somewhere on their route, and, says Dr. Shea, " remain in history, in a distant twilight, as the first Europeans known to have stood on the banks of the Mississippi." In 1539, 42 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOllTHWEST. Hernando de Soto, with a party of cavaliers, most of them sons of titled nobility, landed with their horses upon the coast of Florida. During that and the following four years, these daring adventurers wandered through the Wilderness, traveling in portions of Florida, Carolina, the northern parts of Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi, crossing the Mississippi, as is supposed, as high up as White Eiver, and going still westward to the base of the Eocky Mountains, vainly searching for the rich gold mines of which De Vaca had given marvel- ous accounts. De Soto's party endured hardships that would depress the stoutest heart, while, with fire and sword, they perpetrated atrocities upon the Indian tribes through which they passed, burning their villages and inflicting cruelties which make us blush for the wicked- ness of men claiming to be christians. De Soto died, in May or June, 1542, on the banks of the Mississippi, below the mouth of the Washita, and his immediate attendants concealed his death from the others and secretly, in the night, buried his body in the middle of the stream. The remnant of his survivors went westward and then returned back again to the river, passing the winter upon its banks. The following spring they went down the river, in seven boats which they had rudely constructed out of such scanty material and with the few tools they could command. In these, after a three months' voyage, they arrived at the Spanish town of Panuco, on the river of that name in Mexico. Later, in 1565, Spain, failing in previous attempts, eifected a lodg- ment in Florida, and for the protection of her colony built the fort at St. Augustine, whose ancient ruin, still standing, is an object of curi- osity to the health-seeker and a monument to the hundreds of native Indians who, reduced to bondage by their Spanish conquerors, perished, after years of unrequited labor, in erecting its frowning walls and gloomy dungeons. While Spain retained her hold upon Mexico and enlarged her posses- sions, and continued, with feebler eiforts, to keep possession of the Floridas, she took no measures to establish settlements along the Mis- sissippi or to avail herself of the advantage that might have resulted from its discovery. The Great Eiver excited no further notice after De Soto's time. For the next hundred years it remained as it were a sealed mystery until the French, approaching from the north by way of the lakes, explored it in its entire length, and brought to public light the vast extent and wonderful fertility of its valleys. Eesnming the thread of our history at the place where we turned aside to notice the movements of the Spanish toward the Gulf, we now pro- ceed with the extracts from Father Marquette's journal of the voyage of discovery down the Mississippi. CHAPTER VII. JOLIET AND MARQUETTE'S VOYAGE. The day of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Vil-gin,, whom I had always invoked, since I have been in this Ottawa country, to obtain of God the grace to be able to visit the nations on the River Mississippi, was identically that on which M. Jollyet arrived with orders of the Comte de Frontenac, our governor, and M. Talon, our intendant, to make this discovery with me. I was the more enraptured at this good news, as I saw my designs on the point of being accom- plished, and myself in the happy necessitj' of exposing my life for the salvation of all these nations, and particularly for the Illinois, who had,, when I was at Lapointe du Esprit, very earnestly entreated me to carry the word of God to their country." ""We were not long in preparing our outfit, although we were embarking on a voyage the duration of which we could not foresee.. Indian corn, with some dried rneats, was our whole stock of provisions. With this we set out in two bark canoes, M. Jollyet, myself and five- men, firmly resolved to do all and sufier all for so glorious an enterprise." " It was on the 17th of May, 1673, that we started from the mission. of St. Ignatius, at Michilimakinac, where I then was."* " Our joy at being chosen for this expedition roused our courage- and sweetened the labor of rowing from morning to night. As we were going to seek unknown countries, we took all possible rarecaur- tions that, if our enterprise was hazardous, it should not be foolhardy;, for this reason we gathered all possible information from the Indians- who had frequented those parts, and even from their accounts, traced a map of all the new country, marking down the rivers on which we- were to sail, the names of the nations and places through which we were to pass, the course of the Great River, and what direction we should take when we got to it." "Above all, I put_ our voyage under the protection of the Blessed Virgin Immaculate, promising her that, if she did us the grace to dis- cover the Great River, I would give it the name of the conception ;. * St. Ignatius was not on the Island of Mackinaw, but westward of it, on a point of land extending into the strait, from the north shore, laid down on modern maps as "Point St. Ignace." On this bleak, exposed and barren spot this mission was estab- lished by Marquette himself in 1671. Shea's Catholic Missions, p. 364. 43 44 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. and that I would also give that name to the first mission I should establish among these new nations, as I have actually done among the Illinois." After some days they reached an Indian village, and the journal proceeds: "Here we are, then, at the Maskoutens. This word, in Algonquin, may mean Fire Nation, and that is the name given to them. This is the limit of discoveries made by the French, for they have not yet passed beyond it. This town is made up of three nations gathered here, Miamis, Maskoutens and Kikabous.* As bark for cabins, in this country, is rare, they use rushes, which serve them for walls and roofs, but which afford them no protection against the wind, and still less against the rain when it falls in torrents. The advantage of this kind of cabins is that they can roll them up and carry them easily where they like in hunting time." " I felt no little pleasure in beholding,the position of this town. The view is beautiful and very picturesque, for, from the eminence on which it is perched, the eye discovers on every side prairies spreading away beyond its reach interspersed with thickets or groves of trees. The soil is very good, producing much corn. The Indians gather also quantities of plums and grapes, from which good wine could be made if they choose." " No sooner had we arrived than M. JoUyet and I assembled the Sachems. He told them that he was sent by our governor to discover new countries, and I by the Almighty to illumine them with the light of the gospel; that the Sovereign Master of our lives wished to be known to all nations, and that to obey his will I did not fear death, to which I exposed myself in such dangerous voyages ; that we needed two guides to put us on our way ; these, making them a present, we begged them to grant us. This they did verj' civilly, and even pro- ceeded to speak to us by a present, which was a mat to serve ns on our voyage." "The next day, which was the 10th of June, two Miamis whom they had given us as guides embarked with us in the sight of a great crowd, who could not wonder enough to see seven Frenchmen, alone in two canoes, dare to undiertake so strange and so hazardous an expe- dition." " We knew that there was, three leagues from Maskoutens, a river emptying into the Mississippi. We knew, too, that the point of the compass we were to hold to reach it was the west-southwest, but the * The village was near the mouth of Wolf River, which empties into Winnebago Lake, Wisconsin. The stream was formerly called the Maskouten, and a tribe of this name dwelt along its banks. Marquette's voyage. 45 way is so cut up with marshes and little lakes that it is easy to go astray, especially as the river leading to it is so covered with wild oats that you can hardly discover the channel ; hence we had need of our two guides, who led us safely to a portage of twenty-seven hundred paces and helped us transport our canoes to enter this river, after which they returned, leaving us alone in an unknown country in the hands of Providence."* " We now leave the waters which flow to Quebec, a distance of four or five hundred leagues, to follow those which will henceforth lead'us into strange lands. " Our route was southwest, and after sailing about thirty leagues we perceived a place which had all the appearances of an iron mine, and in fact one of our party who had seen some before averred that the one we had found was very rich and very good. After forty leagues on. this same route we reached the mouth of our river, and finding our- selves at 42^° I^. we safely entered the Mississippi on the 17th of June with a joy that I cannot express."f * This portage has given the name to Portage City, Wisconsin, where the upper waters of Fox River, emptying into Green Bay, approach the Wisconsin River, which, coming from the northwest, here changes its course to the southwest. The distance from the Wisconsin to the Fox River at this point is, according to Henry R. School- craft, a mile and a half across a level prairie, and the level of the two streams is so nearly the same that in high water loaded canoes formerly passed from the one to the other across this low prairie. For many miles below the portage the channel of Fox River was choked with a growth of tangled wild rice. The stream frequently expanding, into little lakes, and its winding, crooked course through the prairie, well justifies the tradition of the Winnebago Indians concerning its origin. A vast serpent that lived in the waters of the Mississippi took a freak to visit the grSat lakes ; he left his trail where he crossed over the prairie, which, collecting the waters as they fell from the rains of heaven, at length became Fox River. The little lakes along its course were, prob- ably, the places where he flourished about in his uneasy slumbers at night. Mrs. John H. Kinzie's Waubun, p. 80. t Father Marquette, agreeably to his vow, named the river the Immaculate Concep- tion. Nine years later, when Robert La Salle, having discovered the river in its entire length, took possession at its mouth of the whole Mississippi Valley, he named the river Colbert, in honor of the Minister of the Navy, a man renowned alike for his ability, at the head of the Department of the Marine, and for the encouragement he gave to literature, science and art. Still later, in 1713, when the vast country drained by its waters was farmed out to private enterprise, as appears from letters patent from the King of France, conveying the whole to M. Crozat, the name of the river was changed to St. Lewis. Fortunately the Mississippi retains its aboriginal name, which is a com- pound from the two Algonquin words missi, signifying great, and sepe, a river. The former is variously pronounced missil or michil, as in Michuimakinac ; miehi, as iii Mich- igan ; missu, as in Missouri, and missi, as in the Mississeneway of the Wabash. The variation in pronunciation is not greater than we might expect in an unwritten lan- guage. ' ' The Western Indians, ' ' says Mr. Schoolcraft, ' ' have no other word than missi to express the highest degree of magnitude, either in a moral or in a physical sense, and it may be considered as not only synonymous to our word great, hat also magnificent, supreme, stupendous, etc." Father Hennepin, who next to Marquette wrote concern- ing the derivation of the name, says : " Mississippi, in the language of the Illinois, means the great river." Some authors, perhaps with more regard for a pleasing fic- tion than plain matter-of-fact, have rendered Mississippi "The Father of' Waters;" whereas, nos, noussey and nosha mean father, and neebi, nipi or n&pee mean water, as universally in the dialect of Algonquin tribes, as does the word missi piean great and sepi a river. '46 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. " Having descended as far as 41° 28', following the same direction, we find that turkeys have taken the place of game, and pisikious (buf- falo) or wild cattle that of other beasts. " At last, on the 25th of June, we perceived foot-prints of men by the water-side and a beaten path entering a beautiful prairie. We ■stopped to examine it, and concliiding that it was a path leading to some Indian village we resolved to go and reconnoitre ; we accordingly left our two canoes in charge of our people, cautioning them to beware of a surprise ; then M. Jollyet and I undertook this rather hazardous discovery for two single men, who thus put themselves at the mercy of an unknown and barbarous people. We followed the little path in silence, and having advanced about two leagues we discovered a village on the banks of the river, and two others on a hill half a league from the former. Then, indeed, we recommended ourselves to God with all our hearts, and having implored his help we passed on undiscovered, and came so near that we even heard the Indians talking. We then deemed it time to announce ourselves, as we did, by a cry which we raised with all our strength, and then halted, without advancing any farther. At this cry the Indians rushed out of their cabins, and hav- ing probably recognized us as French, especially seeing a black gown, or at least having no reason to distrust us, seeing we were but two and had made known our coming, they deputed four old men to come and speak to us. Two carried tobacco-pipes well adorned and trimmed with many kinds of feathers. They marched slowly, lifting their pipes toward the sun as if offering them to it to smoke, but yet without uttering a single word. They were a long time coming the little way from the village to us. Having reached us at last, they stopped to con- sider us attentively. " I now took courage, seeing these ceremonies, which are used by them only with friends, and still more on seeing them covered with stuffs which made me judge them to be allies. I, therefore, spoke to them first, and asked them who they were. They answered that they were Illinois, and in token of peace they presented their pipes to smoke. They then invited us to their village, where all the tribe awaited us with impatience. These pipes for smoking are all called in this country calumets, a word that is so much in use that I shall be obliged to employ it in order to be understood, as I shall have to speak of it frequently. " At the door of the cabin in which we were to be received was an old man awaiting us in a very remarkable posture, which is their usual ceremony in receiving strangers. This man was standing perfectly naked, with his hands stretched out and raised toward the sun as if he wished to screen himself from its rays, which, nevertheless, passed PRESENTATION OF THE CALUMET. 47 through his fingers to his face. When we came near him he paid us this compliment : ' How beautiful is the sun, O Frenchman, when thou comest to visit us ! All our town awaits thee, and thou shalt enter all our cabins in peace.' He then took us into his, where there was a crowd of people, who devoured us with their eyes but kept a profound silence. We heard, however, these words occasionally ad- dressed to us : ' Well done, brothers, to visit us ! ' As soon as we had taken our places they showed us the usual civility of the country, which is to present the calumet. You must not refuse it unless you would pass for an enemj', or at least for being very impolite. It is, however, enough to pretend to smoke. While all the old men smoked after us to honor us, some came to invite us, on behalf of the great sachem of all the Illinois, to proceed to his town, where he wished to hold a council with us. We went with a good retinue, for all the people who had never seen a Frenchman among them could not tire looking at us ; they threw themselves on the grass by the wayside, they ran ahead, then turned and walked back to see us again. All this was done without noise, and with marks of a great respect entertained for us. "Having arrived at the great sachem's town, we espied him at. his cabin door between two old men ; all three standing naked, with their calumet turned to the sun. He harangued us in a few words, to con- gratulate us on our arrival, and then presented us his calumet and made us smoke ; at the same time we entered his cabin, where we received all their usual greetings. Seeing all assembled and in silence, I spoke to them by four presents which I made. By the first, I said that we marched in peace to visit the nations on the river to the sea ; by the second, I declared to them that God, their creator, had pity on them, since, after their having been so long ignorant of him, he wished to become known to all nations ; that I was sent on his behalf with this design ; that it was for them to acknowledge and obey him ; by the third, that the great chief of the French informed them that he spread peace everywhere, and had overcome the Iroquois ; lastly, by the fourth, we begged them to give us all the information they had of the sea, and of nations through which we should have to pass to reach it. " When I had finished my speech, the sachem rose, and laying his hand on the head of a little slave whom he was about to give us, spoke thus : ' I thank thee. Black-gown, and thee, Frenchman,' addressing M. Jollyet, ' for taking so much pains to come and visit us. Never has the earth been so beautiful, nor the sun so bright, as to-day ; never has our river been so calm, nor so free from rocks, which your canoes have removed as they passed ; never has our tobacco had so fine a fiavor, 48 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST; nor our corn appeared so beautiful as we behold it to-day. Here is my son that I give thee that thou mayest know my heart. I pray thee take pity on me and all my nation. Thou knowest the Great Spirit who has made us all ; thou speakest to him and hearest his word ; ask him to give me life and health, and come and dwell with us that we may know him.' Saying this, he placed the little slave near us and made us a second present, an all mysterious calumet, which they value more than a slave. By this present he showed us his esteem for our governor, after the account we had given of him. By the third he begged us, on behalf of his whole nation, not to proceed farther on account of the great dangers to which we exposed ourselves. " I replied that I did not fear death, and that I esteemed no happi- ness greater than that of losing my life. for the glory of him who made us all. But this these poor people could not understand. The coun- cil was followed by a great feast which consisted of four courses, which we had to take with all their ways. The first course was a great wooden dish full of sagamity,— that is to say, of Indian meal boiled in water and seasoned with grease. The master of ceremonies, with a spoonful of sagamity, presented it three or four times to my mouth, as we would do with a little child ; he did the same to M. Jollyet. For the second course, he brought in a second dish containing three fish ; he took some pains to remove the bones, and having blown upon it to cool it, put it in my mouth as we would food to a bird. For the third course they produced a large dog which they had just killed, but, learning that we did not eat it, withdrew it. Finally, the fourth course was a piece of wild ox, the fattest portions of which were put into our mouths. " We took leave of our Illinois about the end of June, and em- barked in sight of all the tribe, who admire our little canoes, having never seen the like. "As we were discoursing, while sailing gently down a beautiful, still, clear water, we heard the noise of a rapid into which we were about to fall. I have seen nothing more frightful; a mass of large trees, entire, with branches, — real floating islands, — came rushing from the mouth of the river Pekitanoiii, so impetuously that we could not, without great danger, expose ourselves to pass across. The agitation was so great that the water was all muddy and could not get clear.* * Pekitanotti, with the aboriginals, signified " muddy water," on the authority of Father Marest, in his letter referred to in a previous note. The present name, Mis- souri, according to Le Page du Pratz, vol. 2, p. 157, was derived from the tribe, Mis- Eouris, whose village was some forty leagues above its mouth, and who massacred a French garrison situated in that part of the country. _ The late statesman and orator, Thomas A. Benton, referring to the muddiness prevailing at all seasons of the year in the Missouri River, said that its waters were "too thick to swim in and too thin to ■walk on." PLOT AGAINST MARQUETTE'S LIFE. 49 "After having made about twenty leagues due south, and a little less to the southeast, we came to a river called Onabouskigou, the mouth of which is at 36° north.* This river comes from the country on the east inhabited by the Chaouanons, in such numbers that they reckon as many as twenty-three villages in one district, and fifteen in another, lying quite near each other. They are by no means warlike, and are the people the Iroquois go far to seek in order to wage an unprovoked war upon them ; and as these poor people cannot defend themselves they allow themselves to be taken and carried off like sheep, and, inno- cent as they are, do not fail to experience the barbarity of the Iroquois, ■who burn them cruelly.' Having arrived about half a league from Akansea (Arkansas River), we saw two canoes coming toward us. The commander was standing up holding in his hand a calumet, with which he made signs according to the custom of the country. He approached us, singing quite agreeably, and invited us to smoke, after which he presented us some sagamity and bread made of Indian corn, of which we ate a little. "We fortunately found among them a man who understood Illinois much better than the man we brought from Mitchigameh. By means of him, I first spoke to the assembly by ordinary presents. They admired what I told them of God and the mysteries of our holy faith, and showed a great desire to keep me with them to instruct them. " We then asked them what they knew of the sea ; they replied that we were only ten days' journey from it (we could have made the distance in five days) ; that they, did not know the nations who inhab- ited it, because their enemies prevented their commerce with those Europeans ; that the Indians with fire-arms whom we had met were their enemies, who cut off the passage to the sea, and prevented their making the acquaintance of the Europeans, or having any commerce with them ; that besides we should expose ourselves greatly by passing on, in consequence of the continual war parties that their enemies sent out on the river ; since, being armed and used to war, we could not, without evident danger, advance on that river which they constantly occupy. " In the evening the sachems held a secret council on the design of some to kill us for plunder, but the chief broke up all these schemes, and sending for us, danced the calumet in our presence, and then, to rertiove all fears, presented it to me. "M. Jollyet and I held another council to deliberate on what we should do, whether we should push on, or rest satisfied with the dis- *The Wabash here appears, for the first time, by name. A more extended notice of the various names by which this stream has been known will be given farthei' on. 4 50 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. covery that we had made. After having attentively considered that we were not far from the Gulf of Mexico, the basin of which is 31° 40' north, and we at 33° 40'; so that we could not be more than two or three days' journey off; that the Mississippi undoubtedly had its mouth in Florida or the Gulf of Mexico, and not on the east in Vir- ginia, whose sea-coast is at 34° north, which we had passed, without having as yet reached the sea, nor on the western side in- California, because that would require a west, or west-southwest course, and we had always been going south. We considered, moreover, that we risked losing the fruit of this voyage, of which we could give no information, if we should throw ourselves into the hands of the Span- iards, who would undoubtedly at least hold us as prisoners. Besides it was clear that we were not in a condition to resist Indians allied to Europeans, numerous and expert in the use of fire-arms, who contin- ually infested the lower part of the river. Lastly, we had gathered all the information that could be desired from the expedition. All these reasons induced us to return. This we announced to the Indians, and after a day's rest prepared for it. "After a month's navigation down the Mississippi, from the J:2d to below the 34th degree, and after having published the gospel as well as I could to the nations I had met, we left the village of Akansea on the 17tli of July, to retrace our steps. "We accordingly ascended the Mississippi, which gave us great trouble to stem its currents. We left it, indeed, about the 38th degree, to enter another river (the Illinois), which greatly shortened our way, and brought us, with little trouble, to the lake of the Illinois. " We had seen nothing like this river for the fertilit}' of the land, its prairies, woods, wild cattle, stag, deer, wild-cats, bustards, swans, ducks, parrots, and even beaver ; its many little lakes and rivers. That on which we sailed is broad deep and gentle for sixty-five leagues. During the spring and part of the summer, the only portage is half a league. " We found there an Illinois town called Kaskaski^, composed of seventy-four cabins ; they received us well, and compelled me to promise them to return and instruct them. One of the chiefs of this tribe, with his young men, escorted us to the Illinois Lake, whence at last we returned in the close of September to the Bay of the Fetid (Green Bay), whence we had set out in the beginning of June. Had all this voyage caused but the salvation of a single soul, I should deem all my fatigue well repaid, and this I have reason to think, for, when I was returning, I passed by the Indians of Peoria. I was three days announcing the faith in their cabins, after which, as we were embarking, they brought BIOGRAPHY OF JOLIET. 51 me, on the water's edge, a dying child, which I baptized a little before it expired, by an admirable providence for the salvation of that inno- ■cent soul." Count Frontenac, writing from Quebec to M. Colbert, Minister of the Marine, at Paris, under date of November 14, 1674, announces that " Sieur Joliet, whom Monsieur Talon advised me, on my arrival from France,, to dispatch for the discovery of the South Sea, has returned three months ago. He has discovered some very fine countries, and a navi- gation so easy through beautiful rivers he has found, that a person can go from Lake Ontario in a bark to the Gulf of Mexico, there being only one carrying place (around Niagara Falls), where Lake Ontario communicates with Lake Erie. I send you, by my secretary, the map which Sieur Joliet has made of the great river he has discovered, and the observations he has been able to recollect, as he lost all his minutes and journals in the shipwreck he suifered within sight of Montreal, where, after having completed a voyage of twelve hundred leagues, he was near being drowned, and lost all his papers and a little Indian whom he brought from those countries. These accidents have caused me great regret."* Louis Joliet, or Jolliet, or Jollyet, as the name is variously spelled, was the son of Jean Joliet, a wheelwright, and Mary d'Abancour; he was born at Quebec in the year 1645. Having finished his studies at the Jesuit college he determined to become a member of that order, and with that purpose in view took some of the minor orders of the society in August, 1662. He completed his studies in 1666, but during this time his attention had become interested in Indian affairs, and he laid aside all thoughts of assuming the " black gown." That he acquired great ability and tact in managing the savages, is apparent from the fact of his having been selected to discover the south sea by the way of the Mississippi. The map which he drew from memory, and which was forwarded by Count Frontenac to France, was afterward attached to Marquette's Journal, and was published by Therenot, at Paris, in 1681. Sparks, in his " Life of Marquette," copies this map, and ascribes it to his hero. This must be a mistake, since it differs quite essentially from Marquette's map, which has recently been brought to public notice by Dr. Shea. Joliet's account of the voyage, mentioned by Frontenac, is published in Hennepin's " Discovery of a Vast Country in America." It is very meagre, and does not present any facts not covered by Marquette's nar- rative. In 1680 Joliet was appointed hydrographer to the king, and many * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 121. 52 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. well-drawn maps at Quebec show that his office was no sinecure. After- ward, he made a voyage to Hudson's Bay in the interest of the king ; and as a reward for the faithful performance of his duty, he was granted the island of Anticosti, which, on account of the fisheries and Indian trade, wafe at that time very valuable. After this, he signed himself Joliet d'Anticosty. In the year 1697, he obtained the seignory of Joliet on the river Etchemins, south of Quebec. M. Joliet died in 1701, leaving a wife and four children, the descendants of whom are living in Canada still possessed of the seignory of Joliet, among whom are Archbishop Taschereau of Quebec and Archbishop Taehe of Eed River. Mount Joliet, on the Desplaines Eiver, above its confluence with the Kankakee, and the city of Joliet, in the county of Will, perpetuate the name of Joliet in the state of Illinois. Jacques Marquette was born in Laon, France, in 1637. His was the oldest and one of the most respectable citizen families of the place. At the age of seventeen he entered the Society of Jesus ; received or- ders in 1666 to embark for Canada, arriving at Quebec in September of the same year. For two years he remained at Three Rivers, study- ing the different Indian dialects under Father Gabriel Druillentes. At the end of that period he received orders to repair to the upper lakes, which he did, and established the Mission of Sault Ste. Marie. The following year Dablon arrived, having been appointed Superior of the Ottawa missions ; Marquette then went to the " Mission of the Holy Ghost " at the western extremity of Lake Superior ; here he remained for two years, and it was his accounts, forwarded from this place, that caused Frontenac and Talon to send Joliet on his voyage to the Mis- sissippi. The Sioux having dispersed the Algonquin tribes at Lapointe, the latter retreated eastward to Mackinaw ; Marquette followed and founded there the Mission of St. Ignatius. Here he remained until Joliet came, in 1673, with orders to accompany him on his voyage of discovery down the Mississippi. Upon his return, Marquette remained at Mackinaw until October, 1674, when he received orders to carry out his pet project of founding the " Mission of the Immaculate Concep- tion of the Blessed Virgin " among the Illinois. He immediately set out, but owing to a severe dysentery, contracted the year previous, he made but slow progress. However, he reached Chicago Creek, De- cember 4, where, growing rapidly worse, he was compelled to winter. On the 29th of the following March he set out for the Illinois town, on the river of that name. He succeeded in getting there on the 8th of April. Being cordially received by the Indians, he was enabled to realize his long deferred and much cherished project of establishing DEATH OF MARQUETTE. 53 the " Mission of the Immaculate Conception." Believing that his life was drawing to a close, he endeavored to reach Mackinaw before his death should take place. But in this hope he was doomed to disap- pointment ; by the time he reached Lake Michigan " he was so weak that he had to be carried like a child." One Saturday, Marcjiiette and his two companions entered a small stream — which still bears his name — on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, and in this desolate spot, virtually alone, destitute of all the comforts of life, died James Marquette. His life-long wish to die a martyr in the holy cause of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin, was granted. Thus passed away one of the purest and most sacrificing servants of God, — one of the bravest and most heroic of men. The biographical sketch of Joliet has been collated from a number of reliable authorities, and is believed truthful. Our notice of Father Marquette is condensed from his life as written by Dr. Shea, than whom there is no one better qualified to perform the task. CHAPTER VIII. EXPLORATIONS BY LA SALLE. The success of the French, in their plan of colonization, was so great, and the trade with the savages, exchanging fineries, guns, knives^ and, more than all, spirituous liquors for valuable furs, yielded such enormous profits, that impetus was given to still greater enterprises. They involved no less than the hemming in of the British colonies along the Atlantic coast and a conquest of the rich mines in Mexico, from the Spanish. These purposes are boldly avowed in a letter of M. Talon, the king's enterprising intendant at Quebec, in 1671 ; and also in the declarations of the great Colbert, at Paris, " I am," says M. Talon, in his letter to the king referred to, "no courtier, and assert, not through a mere desire to please the king, nor without just reason, that this portion of the French monarchy will become something grand. What I discover around me makes me foresee this ; and those colonies of foreign nations so long settled on the seaboard already tremble with fright, in view of what his majesty has, accomjDlished here in the interior. The measures adopted to confine them within narrow limits, by taking possession, which I have caused to be effected,, do not 'allow them to spread, without subjecting themselves, at the same time, to be treated as usurpers, and have war waged against them. This in truth is what by all their acts they seem to greatly fear. They already know that your name is spread abroad among the savages throughout all those countries, and that they regard your majesty alone as the arbitrator of peace and war; they detach themselves insensibly from other Europeans, and excepting the Iroquois, of whom I am not as yet assured, we can safely promise that the others will take up arms whenever we please." " The principal result," says La Salle, in his memoir at a later day, " expected from the great perils and labors which I underwent in the discovery of the Mississippi was to satisfy the wish expressed to me by the late Monsieur Colbert, of finding a port where the French might establish themselves and harass the Spaniards in those regions from whence they derive all their wealth. The place I propose to fortify lies sixty leagues above the mouth of the river Col- bert {i. e. Mississippi) in the Gulf of Mexico, and possesses all the- advantages for such a purpose which can be wished for, both on account M EARLY LIFE OF LA SALLE. 55 of its excellent position and the favorable disposition of the savages who live in that part of the country."* It is not our province to indulge in conjectures as to how far these daring purposes of Talon and Col- bert would have succeeded had not the latter died, and their active assistant, Kobert La Salle, have lost his life, at the hands of an assassin, when in the act of executing the preliminary part of the enterprise. "We turn, rather, to matters of historical record, and proceed with a condensed sketch of the life and voyages of La Salle, as it was his dis- coveries that led to the colonization of the Mississippi Yalley by the French. La Salle was born, of a distinguished family, at Rouen, France. He was consecrated to the service of God in early life, and entered the Society of Jesus, in which he remained ten years, laying the foundation of moral principles, regular habits and elements of science that served him so well in his future arduous undertakings. Like many other young men having plans of useful life, he thought Canada would offer better facilities to develop them than the cramped and fixed society of France. He accordingly left his home, and reached Montreal in 1666. Being of a resolute and venturesome disposition, he found employment in making explorations of the country about the lakes. He soon became a favorite of Talon, the intendant, and of Frontenac, the governor, at Quebec. He was selected by the latter to take com- mand of Fort Frontenac, near the present city of Kingston, on the St. Lawrence River, and at that time a dilapidated, wooden structure on the frontier of Canada. He remained in Canada about nine years, acquiring a knowledge of the country and particularly of the Indian tribes, their manners, habits and customs, and winning the confidence of the French authorities. He returned to France and presented a memoir to the king, in which he urged the necessity of maintaining Fort Frontenac, which he ofiered to restore with a structure of stone ; to keep there a garrison equal to the one at Montreal ; to em- ploy as many as fifteen laborers during the first year ; to clear and till the land, and to supply the surrounding Indian villages with Recollect missionaries in furtherance of the cause of religion, all at his own ex- pense, on condition that the king would grant him the right of seigniory and a monopoly of the trade incident to it. He further petitioned for title of nobility in consideration of voyages he had already made in Canada at his own expense, and which had resulted in the great bene- fit to the king's colony. The king heard the petition graciously, and * Talon's letter to the king: Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 73. La Salle's Memoir to the king, on the necessity of fitting out an expedition to take possession of Louisiana: Historical Collections of Louisiana, part 1, p. 5. 56 HISTOEIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. on the 13th May, 1675, granted La Salle and his heirs Fort Frontenae, with four leagues of the adjacent country along the lakes and rivers above and below the fort and a half a league inward, and the adjacent islands, with the right of hunting and fishing on Lake Ontario and the circumjacent rivers. On the same day, the king issued to La Salle letters patent of nobility, having, as the king declares, been informed of the worthy deeds performed by the people, either in reducing or civilizing the savages or in defending themselves against their frequent insults, especially those of the Iroquois ; in despising the greatest dan- gers in order to extend the king's name and empire to the extremity of that new world ; and desiring to reward those who have thus ren- dered themselves most eminent ; and wishing to treat most favorably Kobert Cavalier Sieur de La Salle on account of the good and laudable report that has been rendered concerning his actions in Canada, the king does ennoble and decorate with the title of nobility the said cav- alier, together with his wife and children. He left France with these precious documents, and repaired to Fort Frontenae, where he per- formed the conditions imposed by the terms of his titles. He sailed for France again in 1677, and in the following year after he and Colbert had fully matured their plans, he again petitioned the king for a license to prosecute further discoveries. The king granted his request, giving him a permit, under date of May 12, 1678, to en- deavor to discover the western part of New France ; the king avowing in the letters patent that " he had nothing more at heart than the dis- covery of that country where there is a prospect of finding a way to penetrate as far as Mexico," and authorizing. La Salle to prosecute dis- coveries, and construct forts in such places as he might think necessary, and enjoy there the same monopoly as at Fort Frontenae, — all on con- dition that the enterprise should be prosecuted at La Salle's expense, and completed within five years ; that he should not trade with the savages, who carried their peltries and beavers to Montreal ; and that the governor, intendant, justices, and other officers of the king in New France, should aid La Salle in his enterprise.* Before leaving France, La Salle, through the Prince de Conti, was introduced to one Henri de Tonti, an Italian by birth, who for eight years had been in the French service. Having had one of his hands shot off while in Sicily, he repaired to France to seek other employment. It was a most for- tunate meeting. Tonti — a name that should be prominently associ- ated with discoveries in this part of America — became La Salle's companion. Ever faithful and courageous, he ably and zealously fur- * Vide the petitions of La Salle to, and the grants from, the king, which are found at length in the Paris Documents, vol. 9, pp. 123 to 127, LOUIS HENNEPIK. 5? thered all of La Salle's plans, followed and defended him under the most discouraging trials, with an unselfish fidelity that has few paral- lels in any age. Supplied with this new grant of enlarged powers, La Salle, in com- pany with Tonti, — or Tonty, as Dr. Sparks says he has seen the name written in an autograph letter, — and thirty men, comprising pilots, sailors, carpenters and other mechanics, with a supply of material necessary for the intended exploration, left France for Quebec. Here the party were joined by some Canadians, and the whole force was sent forward to Fort Frontenac, at the outlet of Lake Ontario, since this fort had been granted to La Salle. He had, in conformity to the terms of his letters patent, greatly enlarged and strengthened its de- fenses. Here he met Louis Hennepin, a Franciscan Friar, whom it seems had been sent thither along with Father Gabriel de la Eibonrde and Zenobius Membre, all of the same religious order, to accompany La Salle's expedition. In the meantime, Hennepin was occupied in pastoral labors among the soldiers of the garrison, and the inhabitants of a little hamlet of peasants near by, and proselyting the Indians of the neighboring country. Hennepin, from his own account, had not only traveled over several parts of Europe before coming to Canada, but since his arrival in America, had spent much time in roaming about among the savages, to gratify his love of adventure and acquire' knowledge. Hennepin's name and writings are so prominently connected with' the early history of the Mississippi Valley, and, withal, his contradic-' tory statements, made alt a later day of his life, as to the extent of his own travels, have so clouded his reputation with grave doubt as to his regard for truth, that we will turn aside and give the reader a sketch of this most singular man and his claims as a discoverer. He was bold, courageous, patient and hopeful under the most trying fatigues ; and had a taste for the privations and dangers of a life among the savages, whose ways and caprices he well understood, and knew how- to turn them to insure his own safety. He was a shrewd observer and possessed a faculty for that detail and little minutiae, which make a narrative racy and valuable. He was vain and much given to self- glorification. He accompanied La Salle, in the first voyage, as far as Peoria Lake, and he and Father Zenobe Membre are the historians of that expedition. From Peoria Lake he went down the Illinois, under orders from La Salle, and up the Mississippi beyond St. Anthony's Falls, giving this name to the falls. This interesting voyage was not prosecuted voluntarily ; for Hennepin and his two companions were captured by the Sioux and taken up the river as prisoners, often in 58 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. great peril of their lives. He saw La Salle no more, after parting with him at Peoria Lake. He was released from captivity through the intervention of Mons. Duluth, a French Coureur de Bois, who had previously established a trade with the Sioux, on the upper Mississippi, by way of Lake Superior. After his escape, Hennepin descended the Mississippi to the mouth of the "Wisconsin, which he ascended, made the portage at the head of Fox Eiver, thence to Green Bay and Mack- inaw, by the route pursued by Joliet and Marquette on their way to the Mississippi, seven years before. From Mackinaw he proceeded to France, where, in 1683, he published, under royal authority, an account of his travels. For refusing to obey an order of his superiors, to return to America, he was banished from France. He went to Holland and obtained the favor and patronage of William IH, king of England, to whose service, as he himself says, " he entirely devoted himself." In Holland, he received money and sustenance from Mr. Blathwait, King William's secretary of war, while engaged in preparing a new volume of his voyages, which was published at Utrecht, in 1697, and dedicated "To His Most Excellent Majesty William the Third." The revised edition contains substantially all of the first, and a great deal besides ; for in this last work Hennepin lays claim, for the first time, to having gone down the Mississippi to its mouth, thus seeking to deprive La Salle of the glory attaching to his name, on account of this very dis- covery. La Salle had now been dead about fourteen years, and from the time he went down the Mississippi, in 1682, to the hour of his death, although his discovery was well known, especially to Hennepin, the latter never laid any claim to having anticipated him in the discov- ery. Besides, Hennepin's own account, after so long a silence, of his pretended voyage down the river is so uttei-ly inconsistent with itself, especially with respect to dates and the impossibility of his traveling the distances within the time he alleges, that the story carries its own refutation. For this mendacious act. Father Hennepin has merited the severest censures of Charlevoix, Jared Sparks, Francis Parkman, Dr. Shea and other historical critics. His first work is generally regarded as authority. That he did go up,the Mississippi river there seems to be no controversy, while grave doubts prevail as to many statements in his last publication, which would otherwise pass without suspicion were they not found in com- pany with statements known to be untrue. In the preface to his last work, issued in 1697, Father Hennepin assigns as a reason why he did not publish his descent of the Missis- sippi in his volume issued in 1683, "that I was obliged to say nothimr of the course of tlie Mississippi, from the mouth of the Illinois down HENNEPIN AND LA SALLE. 59' to tlie sea, for fear of disobliging M. La Salle, with whom I begap my discovery. This gentleman, alone, would have the glory of having dis- covered the course of that river. But when he heard that I had done it two years before him he could never forgive me, though, as I have said, I was so modest as to publish nothing of it. This was the true cause of his malice against me, and of the barbarous usage I met with in France." Still, his description of places he did visit; the aboriginal namea and geographical features of localities ; his observations, especially upon the manners and customs of the Indians, and other facts which he had no motive to misrepresent, are generally regarded as true in his last as well as in his first publication. His works, indeed, are the only repos- itories of many interesting particulars relating to the northwest, and authors quote from him, some indiscriminately and others with more caution, while all criticise him without measure. Hennepin was born in Belgium in 1640, as is supposed, and died at Utrecht, Holland, within a few years after issuing his last book. This ■ was republished in London in 1698, the translation into English being wretchedly executed. The book, aside from its historical value and the notoriety attaching to it because of the new claims Hennepin makes, is quite a curiosity. It is made up of Hennepin's own travels, blended with his fictitious discoveries, scraps and odd ends taken from the writings of other travelers without giving credit ; the whole embellished with plates and a map inserted by the bookseller, and the text empha- sized with italics and displayed type; all designed to render it a speci- men, as it probably was in its day, of the highest skill attained in the art of book-making. La Salle brought up the St. Lawrence to Fort Frontenac the anchors, cordage and other material to be used in the vessel which he designed to construct above the Falls of Niagara for navigating the western lakes. He already had three small vessels ofl Lake Ontario, which he had made use of in a coasting trade with the Indians. One of these, a brigantine of ten tons, was loaded with his effects; his men,, including Fathers Gabriel, Zenobius Membre and Hennepin, who were, as Father Zenobia declares, commissioned with care of the spiritual direction of the expedition, were placed aboard, and on the 18th of November the vessel sailed westward for the Niagara River. They kept the northern shore, and run into land and bartered for corn with the Iroquois at one of their villages, situated where Toronto, Canada,, is located, and for fear of being frozen up in the river, which here empties into the lake, had to cut the ice from about their ship. Detained by adverse winds, they remained here until the wind was favorable,, > 60 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. when they sailed across the end of the lake and found an anchorage in the mouth of Niagara Kiver on the 6th of December. The season was far advanced, and the ground covered with snow a foot deep. Large masses of ice were floating down the river endangering the vessel, and it was necessary to take measures to give it security. Accordingly the vessel was hauled with cables up against the strong current. One of the cables broke, and the vessel itself came very near being broken to pieces or carried away by the ice, which was grinding its way to the open lake. Finally, by sheer force of human strength, the vessel was dragged to the shore, and moored with a strong hawser under a protect- ing cliff out of danger from the floating ice. A cabin, protected with palisades, for shelter and to serve as a magazine to store the supplies, was also constructed. The ground was frozen so hard that it had to be thawed out with boiling water before the men could drive stakes into it. The movements of La Salle excited, first the curiosity of the Iro- quois Indians, in whose country he was an intruder, and then their jeal- ousy became aroused as they began to fear he intended the erection of a fort. The Sieur de La Salle, says the frank and modest-minded Father Zenobe Membre, " with his usual address met the principal Iroquois chiefs in conference, and gained them so completely that they not only agreed, but offered, to contribute with all their means to the execu- tion of his designs. The conference lasted for some time. La Salle also sent many canoes to trade north and south of the lake among these tribes." Meanwhile La Salle's enemies were busy in thwarting his plans. They insinuated themselves among the Indians in the vicinity of Niagara, and filled their ears with all sorts of stories to La Salle's discredit, and aroused feelings of such distrust that work on the fort, or depot for supplies, had to be suspended, and La Salle content himself with a house surrounded by palisades. A place was selected above the falls,* on the eastern side of the river, for the construction of the new vessel. The ground was cleared away, trees were felled, and the carpen- ters set to work. The keel of the vessel was laid on the 26th of Jan- uary, and some of the plank being ready to fasten on. La Salle drove the first spike. As the work progressed, La Salle made several trips, over ice and snow, and later in the spring with vessels, to Fort Frontenac, to hurry forward provisions and material. One of his vessels was lost on Lake Ontario, heavily laden with a cargo of valuable supplies, through the fault or willful perversity of her pilots. The disappointment over this calamity, says Hennepin, would have dissuaded any other person than ♦Francis Parkman, in his valuable work, "The Discovery of the Great West," p. 133, locates the spot at the mouth of Cayuga Creek on the American shore. THE FIRST SAIL ON LAKE ERIE. 61 La Salle from the further prosecution of the enterprise. The men worked industriously on the ship. The most of the Iroquois having gone to war with a nation on the northern side of Lake Erie, the few remaining behind were become less insolent than before. Still they lingered about where the work was going on, and continued expres- sions of discontent at what the French were doing. One of thenj let on to be drunk and attempted to kill the blacksmith, but the latter repulsed the Indian with a piece of iron red-hot from the forge. The Indians threatened to burn the vessel on the stocks, and might have done so were it not constantly guarded. Much of the time the only food of the men was Indian corn and iish ; the distance to Fort Fron- tenac and the inclemency of the winter rendering it out of power to procure a supply of other or better provisions. The frequent alarms from the Indians, a want of wholesome food, the loss of the vessel with its promised supplies, and a refusal of the neighboring tribes to sell any more of their corn, reduced the party to such extremities that the ship-carpenters tried to run away. They were, however, persuaded to remain and prosecute their work. Two Mohegan Indians, successful hunters in La Salle's service, were fortu- nate enough to bring in some wild goats and other game they had killed, which greatly encouraged the workmen to go on with their task more briskly than before. The vessel was completed within six months from the time its keel was laid. The ship was gotten afloat before en- tirely finished, to prevent the designs of the natives to burn it. She was sixty tons burthen, and called the " Grifiin," a name given it by La Salle by way of a compliment to Count Frontenac, whose armorial bearings were supported by two griffins. Three guns were fired, and "7'e Deums" chanted at the christening, and prayers offered up for a prosperous voyage. The air in the wild forest rung with shouts of joy; even the Iroquois, looking suspiciously on, were seduced with alluring draughts of brandy to lend their deep-mouthed voices to the happy occasion. The men left their cabins of bark and swung their hammocks under the deck of the ship, where they could rest with greater security from the savages than on the shore. The Griffin, under press of a favorable breeze, and with the help of twelve men on the shore pulling at tow-ropes, was forced up against the strong current of the Niagara River to calmer waters at the en- trance of the lake. On the 7th of August, 1679, her canvas was spread, and the pilot steering by the compass, the vessel, with La Salle and his thirty odd companions and their effects aboard, sailed out westward upon the unknown, silent waters of Lake Erie. In three days they reached the mouth of Detroit River. Father Hennepin was fairly ■62 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. delighted with the country along this river — it was " so well situated and the soil so fertile. Vast meadows extending back from the strait and terminating at the uplands, which were clad with vineyards, and plum and pear and other fruit-bearing trees of natui-e's own planting, all so well arranged that one would think they could not have been so dis- posed without the help of art. The country was also well stocked with deer, bear, wild goats, turkeys, and other animals and birds, that supplied a most relishing food. The forest comprised walnut and other timber in abundance suitable for building purposes. So charmed was he with the prospect that he " endeavored to persuade La Salle to settle at the ' De Troit,' " it being in the midst of so many savage na- tions among whom a good trade could be established. La Salle would not listen to this proposal. He said he would make no settlement within one hundred leagues of Frontenac, lest other Europeans would be before them in the new country they were going to discover. This, says Hennepin, was the pretense of La Salle and the adventurers who were with him ; for I soon discovered that their intention was to buy all the furs and skins of the remotest savages who, as they thought, did not know their value, and thus enrich themselves in one single voyage. On Lake liuron the Griffin encountered a storm. The main-yards and topmast were blown away, giving the ship over to the mercy of the winds. Tiiere was no harbor to run into for shelter. La Salle, althougli a courageous man, gave way to his fears, and said they all were undone. Everyone thereupon fell upon their knees to say pray- ers and prepare for death, except the pilot, who cursed and swore all the while at La Salle for bringing him there to perish in a nasty lake, after he had acquired so much, renown in a long and successful naviga- tion 'on the ocean. The storm; abated, and on the 27th of August, the Griffin resumed her course northwest, and was carried on the evening of the same day beyond the island of Mackinaw to point St. Ignace, and safely anchored in a bay that is sheltered, except from the south, by the projecting mainland. CHAPTER IX. LA SALLE'S VOYAGE CONTINUED. St. Ignace, or Mackinaw, as previously stated, had become a princi- pal center of the Jesuit missions, and it had also grown into a head- quarters for an extensive Indian trade. Duly licensed traders, as v^ell as the Coureurs de Bois, — men who had run wild, as it were, and by their intercourse with the nations had thrown off all restraints of civilized life, — resorted to this vicinity in considerable numbers. These, lost to all sense of national pride, instead of sustaining took every measure to thwart La Salle's plans. They, with some of the dissatis- fied crew, represented to the Indians that La Salle and his associates were a set of dangerous and ambitious adventurers, who meant to engross all the trade in furs and skins and invade their liberties. These jealous and meddlesome busybodies had already, before the arrival of the GriflBn, succeeded in seducing fifteen men from La Salle's service, whom with others, he had sent forward the previous spring, under command of Tonty, with a stock of merchandise; and, instead of going to the tribes beyond and preparing the way for a friendly recep- tion of La Salle, as they were ordered to do, they loitered about Mackinaw the whole summer and squandered the goods, in spite of Tonty's persistent efforts to urge them forward in the performance of their duty. La Salle sent out other parties to trade with the natives, and these went so far, and wei'e so busy in bartering for and collect- ing furs, that they did not return to Mackinaw until N^ovember. It was now getting late and La Salle was warned of the dangerous storms that sweep the lakes at the beginning of winter ; he resolved, therefore, to continue his voyage without waiting the return of his men. He weighed anchor and sailed westward into Lake Michigan as far as the islands at the entrance of Green Bay, then called the Pottawatomie Islands, for the reason that they were then occupied by bands of that tribe. On one of these islands La Salle found some of the men belonging to his advance party of traders, and who, having secured a large quantity of valuable furs, had long and impatiently waited his coming. La Salle, as is already apparent, determined to engage in a fur trade that already and legitimately belonged to merchants operating at 64 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. MoHtreal, and with which the terms of his own license prohibited his interfering. Without asking any one's advice he resolved to load his ship with furs and send it back to Niagara, and the furs to Quebec, and out of the proceeds of the sale to discharge some very pressing debts. The pilot with five men to man the vessel were ordered to proceed with the Griffin to Niagara, and return with all imaginable speed and join La Salle at the mouth of the St. Joseph Kiver, near the southern shore of Lake Michigan. The Griffin did not go to Green Bay City, as many writers have assumed in hasty perusals of the original authorities, or even penetrate the body of water known as Green Bay beyond the chain of islands at its month. The resolution of La Salle, taken, it seems, on the spur of the moment, to send his ship back down the lakes, and prosecute his voyage the rest of the way to the head of Lake Michigan in frail birchen canoes, was a most unfortunate measure. It delayed his discoveries two years, brought severe hardships upon himself and greatly embarrassed all his future plans. The Griffin itself was lost, with all her cargo, valued at sixty thousand livres. She, nor her crew, was ever heard of after leaving the Pottawatomie Islands. What became of the ship and men in charge remains to this day a mystery, or veiled in a cloud of conjecture. La Salle himself, says Francis Parkman, "grew into a settled conviction that the Griffin had been treacherously sunk by the pilot and sailors to whom he had intrusted her; and he thought he had, in after-years, found evidence that the authors of the crime, laden with the merchandise they had taken from her, had reached the Mississippi and ascended it, hoping to join Du Shut, the famous chief of the Coureurs de Bois, and enrich them- selves by traffic with the northern tribes.* The following is, substantially, Hennepin's account of La Salle's canoe voyage from the mouth of Green Bay south, along the shore of Lake Michigan, past Milwaukee and Chicago, and around the southern end of the lake ; thence north along the eastern shore to the mouth of the St. Joseph River ; thence up the St. Joseph to South Bend, mak- ing the portage here to the head-waters of the Kankakee ; thence down the Kankakee and Illinois through Peoria Lake, with an account of the buildmg of Fort Crevecceur. Hennepin's narrative is full of in- teresting detail, and contains many interesting observations upon the condition of the country, the native inhabitants as they appeared nearly two hundred years ago. The privation and suffering to which La Salle arid his party were exposed in navigating Lake Michigan at that early day, and late in the fall of the year, when the waters were vexed with * Discovery of the Great West, p. 169. FIRST VOYAGE ON LAKE MICHIGAlf. 65 teanpestuous storms, illustrate the courage and daring of the under-, taking. Their suffering did not terminate with their voyage upon the lake. Difficulties of another kind were experienced on the St. Joseph, Kan- kakee and Illinois Rivers. Hennepin's is, perhaps, the first detailed account we have of this part of the "Great "West," and is therefore of great interest and value on this account. " "We left the Pottawatomies to continue our voyage, being fourteen men in all, in four canoes. I had charge of the smallest, which carried five hundredweight and two men. My companions being recently from Europe, and for that reason being unskilled in the management, of these kind of boats, its whole charge fell upon me in stormy weather. " The canoes were laden with a smith's forge, utensils, tools for car- penters, joiners and sawyers, besides our goods and arms. , "We steered to the south toward the mainland, from which the Pottawatomie Islands are distant some forty leagues; but about midway, and in the night time, we were greatly endangered by a sudden storm. The, waves dashed into our canoes, and the night was so dark we had great difficulty in keeping our canoes together. The daylight coming oli,, we reached the shore, where we remained for four days, waiting for the lake to grow calm. In the meantime our Indian hunter went in quest of game, but killed nothing other than a porcupine; this, however, made our Indian corn more relishing. The weather becoming fair, we . resumed our voyage, rowing all day and well into the night, along the western coast of the Lake of the Illinois. The wind again grew to fresh, and we landed upon a rocky beach where we had nothing to protect ; ourselves against a storm of snow and ,rain except the clothing on our persons. We remained here two days for the sea to go down,, hav- ing made a little fire from wood cast ashore by the waves. We pro- . ceeded on our voyage, and toward evening the winds again forced us to a beach covered with rushes, where we remained three days ; and in , . the meantime our provisions, consisting only of pumpkins and Indian, corn purchased from the Pottawatomies, entirely gave out.. Our canoes were so heavily laden that we could not carry provisions with, us, and we were compelled to rely on bartering for such supplies on our way. We left this dismal place, and after twelve leagues rowing, came to another Pottawatomie village, whose inhabitants stood upon the beach to receive us. But M. La Salle refused to let anyone land, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, fearing some of his men might run away. We were in such great peril that La Salle flung himself into the water, after we had gone some three leagues farther, 5 66 HISTORIC NOTES OUT THE NORTHWEST. and with the aid of his three men carried the canoe of which he had charge to the shore, upon their shoulders, otherwise it would have been broken to pieces by the waves. We were obliged to do the same with the other canoes. I, myself, carried good Father Gabriel upon my back, his age being so well advanced as not to admit of his ventur- ing in the water. We took ourselves to a piece of rising ground to avoid surprise, as we had no manner of acquaintance with the great number of savages whose village was near at hand. We sent three men into the village to buy provisions, under protection of the calu- met or pipe of peace, which the Indians at Pottawatomie Islands had presented us as a means of introduction to, and a measure of safety against, other tribes that we might meet on our way." The calumet has always been a symbol of amity among all the In- dian tribes of North America, and so uniformly used by them in all their negotiations with their own race, and Europeans as well ; and Father Hennepin's description of it, and the respect that is accorded to its presence, are so truthful that we here insert his account of it at length : " This calumet," says Father Hennepin, " is the most mysterious thing among the savages, for it is used in all important transactions. It is nothing else, however, than a large tobacco pipe, made of red, black, or white stone. The head is highly polished, and the quill or stem is usually about two feet in length, made of a pretty strong reed or cane, decorated with highly colored feathers interlaced with locks of women's hair. Wings of gaudily plumaged birds are tied to it, mak- ing the calumet look like the wand of Mercury, or staff which ambas- sadors of state formerly carried when they went to conduct treaties of peace. The stem is sheathed in the skin of the neck of birds called '■Hv.ars'' (probably the loon), which are as large as our geese, and spotted with white and black; or else with those of a duck (the little wood duck whose neck presents a beautiful contrast of colors) that make their nests upon trees, although the water is their ordinary ele- ment, and whose feathers are of many different colors. However, every tribe ornament their calumets according to their own fancy, with the feathers of such birds as they may have in their own country. "A pipe, such as I have described, is a pass of safe conduct among all the allies of the tribe which has given it ; and in all embassies it is car- ried as a symbol of peace, and is always respected as such, for the sav- ages believe some great misfortune would speedily befall them if they violated the public faith of the calumet. All their enterprises, declara- tions of war, treaties of peace, as well as all of the rest of their cere- monies, are sealed with the calumet. The pipe is filled with the best CANOE VOYAGE ON LAKE MICHIGAN. 67 tobacco they have, and then it is presented to those -with whom they are about to conduct an important affair ; and after they have smoked out of it, the one offering it does the same. I would have perished," concludes Hennepin, "had it not been for the calumet. Our three men, carrying the calumet and being well armed, went to the little village about three leagues from the place where we landed ; they found no one at home, for the inhabitants, having heard that we refused to land at the other village, supposed we were enemies, and had aban- doned their habitations. In their absence our men took some of their corn, and left instead, some goods, to let them know we were neither their enemies nor robbers. Twenty of the inhabitants of this village came to our encampment on the beach, armed with axes, small guns, bows, and a sort of club, which, in their language, means a head- breaker. La Salle, with four well-armed men, advanced toward them for the purpose of opening a conversation. He requested them to come near to us, saying he had a party of hunters out who might come across them and take their lives. They came forward and took seats at the foot of an eminence, where we were encamped ; and La Salle amused them with the relation of his voyage, which he informed them he had undertaken for their advantage ; and thus occupied their time until the arrival of the three men who had been sent out with the calumet ; on seeing which the savages gave a great shout, arose to their feet and danced about. "We excused our men from having taken some of their corn, and informed them that we had left its true value in goods ; they were so well pleased with this that they immediately sent for more corn, and on the next day they made us a gift of as much as we could conveniently find room for in our canoes. " The next day morning the old men of the tribe came to us with their calumet of peace, and entertained us with a free offering of wild goats, which their own hunters had taken. In return, we presented them our thanks, accompanied with some axes, knives, and several little toys for their wives, with all which they were very much pleased. " We left this place and continued our voyage along the coast of the lake, which, in places, is so steep that we often found it diflBcult to obtain a landing ; and the wind was so violent as to oblige us to carry our canoes sometimes upon top of the bluff, to prevent their being dashed in pieces. The stormy weather lasted four days, causing us much suffering ; for every time we made the shore we had to wade in the water, carrying our effects and canoes upon our shoulders. The water being very cold, most of us were taken sick. Our provisions again failed us, which, with the fatigues of rowing, made old Father Gabriel faint away in such a manner that we despaired of his life. 68 HISTOBIC NOTKS ON THE NORTHWEST. With a use of a decoction of hyacinth I had with me, and which I found of great service on our voyage, he was restored to his senses. We had no other subsistence but a handful of corn per man every twenty-four hours, which we parched or boiled ; and, although reduced to such scanty diet, we rowed our canoes almost daily, from morning^ to night. Our men found some hawthorns and other wild berries, of which they ate so freely that most of them were taken sick, and we imagined that they were poisoned. "Yet the more we suffered, the more, by God's grace, did I become stronger, so that I could outrow the other canoes. Being in great dis- tress, He, who takes care of his meanest creatures, provided us with an unexpected relief. We saw over the land a great many ravens, and eagles circling in mid-air ; from whence we conjectured there was prey near by. We landed, and, upon search, found the half of a wild goat which the wolves had strangled. This provision was very ac- ceptable, and the rudest of our men could not but praise a kind Provi- dence, who took such particular care of us. " Having thus refreshed ourselves, we continued our voyage directly to the southern part of the lake, every day the country becoming finer and the climate more temperate. On the 16th of October we fell in with abundance of game. Our Indian hunter killed several deer and wild goats, and our men a great many big fat turkey-cocks, with which we regaled ourselves for several days. On the 18th we came to the farther end of the lake.* Here we landed, and our men were sent out to prospect the locality, and found great quantities of ripe grapes,, the fruit of which were as large as damask plums. We cut down the trees to gather the grapes, out of which we made pretty good wine,, which we put into gourds, used as flasks, and buried them in the sand to keep the contents from turning sour. Many of the trees here are loaded with vines, which, if cultivated, would make as good wine as any in Europe. The fruit was all the more relishing to us, because we wanted bread." Other travelers besides Hennepin, passing this locality at an early day, also mention the same fact. It would seem, therefore, that Lake Michigan had the same modifying influence upon, and equalized the temperature of, its eastern shore, rendering it as famous for its wild fruits and grapes, two hundred years ago, as it has since become noted for the abundance and perfection of its cultivated varieties. " Our men discovered prints of men's feet. The men were ordered * From the description given of the country, the time occupied, and forest zroyrih the voyagers must now be eastward of Michigan City, and where the lake shore trends more rapidly to the north. SAVAGES PLUNDEB LA SALLE. 69 io be upon guard and make no noise. In spite of this precaution, one of our men, finding a bear upon a tree, shot him dead and dragged him into camp. La Salle was very angry at this indiscretion, and, to avoid surprise, placed sentinels at the canoes, under which our effects had been put for protection against the rain. There was a hunting party of Fox Indians from the vicinity of Green Bay, about one hun- dred and twenty in number, encamped near to us, who, having heard the noise of the gun of the man who shot the bear, became alarmed, and sent out some of their men to discover who we were. These spies, creeping upon their bellies, and observing great silence, came in the night-time and stole the coat of La Salle's footman and some goods secreted under the canoes. The sentinel, hearing a noise, gave the alarm, and we all ran to our arms. On being discovered, and thinking our numbers were greater than we really were, they cried out, in the dark, that they were friends. We answered, friends did not visit at such unseasonable hours, and that their actions were more like those of robbers, who designed to plunder and kill us. Their headsman replied that they heard the noise of our gun, and, as they knew that none of the neighboring tribes possessed firearms, they supposed we were a war party of Iroquois, come with the design of murdering them ; but now that they learned we were Frenchmen from Canada, whom they loved as their own brethren, they would anxiously wait until daylight, so that they could smoke out of our calumet. This is a compliment among the savages, and the highest mark they can give of their affection. " We appeared satisfied with their reasons, and gave leave to four of their old men, only, to come into our camp, telling them we would not permit a greater number, as their young men were much given to stealing, and that we would not suffer such indignities. Accordingly, four of their old men came among us; we entertained them until morning, when they departed. After they were gone, we found out about the robbery of the canoes, and La Salle, well knowing the genius of the savages, saw, if he allowed this affront to pass without resenting • it, that we would be constantly exposed to a renewal of like indigni- ties. Therefore, it was resolved to exact prompt satisfaction. La Salle, with four of his men, went out and captured two of the Indian hunters. One of the prisoners confessed the robbery, with the cir- cumstances connected with it. The thief was detained, and his comrade was released and sent to his band to tell their headsman that the cap- tive in custody would be put to death unless the stolen property were returned. " The savages were greatly perplexed at La Salle's peremptory mes- 70 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. sage. They could not comply, for they had cut up the goods and coat and divided among themselves the pieces and the buttons ; they there- fore resolved to rescue their man by force. The next day, October 30, they advanced to attack us. The peninsula we were encamped on was separated from the forest where the savages lay by a little sandy plain, on which and near the wood were two or three eminences. La Salle determined to take possession of the most prominent of these elevations, and detached five of his men to occiipy it, following him- self, at a short distance, with all of his force, every one having rolled their coats about the left arm, which was held up as a protectioa against the arrows of the savages. Only eight of the enemy had fire- arms. The savages were frightened at our advance, and their young men took behind the trees, but their captains stood their ground, while we moved forward and seized the knoll. I left the two other Francis- cans reading the usual prayers, and went about among the men ex- horting them to their duty ; I had been in some battles and sieges in Europe, and was not afraid of these savages, and La Salle was highly pleased with my exhortations, and their influence upon his men. When I considered what might be the result of the quarrel, and how much more Christian-like it would be to prevent the eifusion of blood, and end the difficulty in a friendly manner, I went toward the oldest savage, who, seeing me unarmed, supposed I came with designs of a mediator, and received me with civility. In the meantime one of our men observed that one of the savages had a piece of the stolen cloth wrapped about his head, and he went up to the savage and snatched the cloth away. This vigorous action so much terrified the savages that, although they were near six score against eleven, they presented me with the pipe of peace, which I received. M. La Salle gave his word that they might come to him in security. Two of their old men came forward, and in a speech disapproved the conduct of their young men ; that they could not restore the goods taken, but that, having been cut to pieces, they could only return the articles which were not spoiled, and pay for the rest. The orators presented, with their speeches, some garments made of beaver skins, to appease the wrath of M. La Salle, who, frowning a little, informed them that while he designed to wrong no one, he did not intend others should affront or injure him ; but, inas- much as they did not approve what their young men had done, and were willing to make restitution for the same, he would accept their gifts and become their friend. The conditions were fully complied with and peace happily concluded without farther hostility. " The day was spent in dancing, feasting and speech-making. The chief of the band had taken particular notice of the behavior of the INDIAN SPEECH TO THE GRAY-COATS. 7l Franciscans. 'These gray-coats,'* said the chief of the Foxes, 'we value very much. They go barefooted as well as we. , They scorn our beaver gowns, and decline all other presents. They do not carry arms to kill us. They flatter and make much of our children, and give them knives and other toys without expecting any reward. Those of our tribe who have been to Canada tell us that Onnotio (so they call the Governor) loves them very much, and that the Fathers of the Gown have given up all to come and see us. Therefore, you who are captain over all these men, be pleased to leave with us one of these gray-coats, whom we will conduct to our village when we shall have killed what we design of the buffaloes. Thou art also master of these warriors ; remain with us, instead of going among the Illinois, who, already advised of your coming, are resolved to kill you and all of your soldiers. And how can you resist so powerful nation ? ' " The day November 1st we again embarked on the lake, and came to the mouth of the river of the Miamis, which comes from the south- east and falls into the lake." * While the Jesuit Fathers wore black gowns as a distinctive mark of their sect, the Recollects, or Franciscan missionaries, wore coats of gray. CHAPTER X. THE SEVERAL MIAMIS-LA SALLE'S VOYAGE DOWN THE ILLINOIS. Much confusion has arisen because, at different periods, the name of " Miami " has been applied to no less than five different rivers, viz. : The St. Joseph, of Lake Michigan ; the Maumee, often designated as the Miami of the Lakes, to distinguish it from the Miami which falls into the Ohio Eiver below Cincinnati ; then there is the Little Miami of the Ohio emptying in above its greater namesake ; and finally the "Wabash, which with more propriety bore the name of the " Eiver of the Miamis." The French, it is assumed, gave the name " Miami " to the river emptying into Lake Michigan, for the reason that there was a village of that tribe on its banks before and at the time of La Salle'? first visit, as already noted on page 24. The name was not of long duration, for it was soon exchanged for that of St. Joseph, by which it has ever since been known. La Hontan is the last authority who refers to it by the name of Miami. Shortly after the year named, the date being now unknown, a Catholic mission was established up the river, and, Charlevoix says, about six leagues below the portage, at South Bend, and called the Mission of St. Joseph ; and from this cir- cumstance, we may safely infer, the river acquired the same name. It is not known, either, by whom the Mission of St. Joseph was organ- ized ; very probably, however, by Father Claude Allouez. This good man, and to whose writings the people of the west are so largely indebted for many valuable historical reminiscences, seems to have been forgotten in the respect that is showered upon other more conspicuous though less meritorious characters. The Mission of the Immaculate Conception, after Marquette's death, remained unoccupied for the space of two years, then Claude Jean Allouez received orders to proceed thither from the Mission of St. James, at the town of Maskoutens, on Fox Kiver, Wisconsin. Leaving in October, 1676, on account of an exceptionally early winter, he was compelled to delay his journey nntil the following February, when he again started ; reaching Lake Mich- igan on the eve of St. Joseph, he called the lake after this saint. Embarking on the lake on the 23d of March, and coasting along the western shore, after numerous delays occasioned by ice and storm, he arrived at Chicago Kiver. He then made the portage and entered the 72 LA SALLE BEACHES THE ST. JOSEPH. 73 Kaskaskia village, which was probably near Peoria Lake, on the 8th of April, 1677. The Indians gave him a very cordial reception, and flocked from all directions to the town to hear the "Black Gown" relate the truths of Christianity. For the glorification of God and the Blessed Virgin Immaculate, Allonez "erected, in the midst of the village, a cross twenty-five feet high, chanting the Vexilla Eegis in the presence of an admiring and respectful throng of Indians ; he covered it with garlands of beautiful flowers."* Father Allouez did not remain but a short time at the mission ; leaving it that spring he returned in 1678, and continued there until La Salle's arrival in the winter of 1679-80. The next succeeding decade Allouez passed either at this mission or at the one on St. Joseph's Eiver, on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, where he died in 1690. Bancroft says: "Allouez has imperishably connected his name with the progress of discovery in the West ; unhonored among us now, he was not inferior in zeal and ability to any of the great missionaries of his tinie." We resume Hennepin's narrative : "We had appointed this place (the mouth of the St. Joseph) for our rendezvous before leaving the outlet of Green Bay, and expected to meet the twenty men we had left at Mackinaw, who, being ordered to come by the eastern coast of the lake, had a much shorter cut than we, who came by the western side ; besides this, their canoes were not so heavily laden as ours. Still, we found no one here, nor any signs that they had been here before us.f " It .was resolved to advise M. La Salle that it was imprudent to remain here any longer for the absent men, and expose ourselves to the hardships of winter, when it would be doubtful if we could flnd the Illinois in their villages, as then they would be divided into fami- lies, and scattered over the country to subsist more conveniently. We further represented that the game might fail us, in which event we must certainly perish with hunger ; whereas, if we went forward, we would flnd enough corn among the Illinois, who would rather supply * "Allouez' Journal," published in Shea's "Discovery on Exploration of the Missis- sippi Valley." t In some works, the Geological Surveys of Indiana for 1873, p. 458, among others, it is erroneously assumed that La Salle was the discoverer of the St. Joseph River. While Fathers Hennepin and Zenobe Membre, who were with La Salle, may be the only accessible authors who have described it, the stream and its location was well known to La Salle and to them, as appears from their own account of it before they had ever seen it. Before leaving Mackinaw, Tonti was ordered to hunt up the deserters from, and to bring in the tardy traders belonging to. La Salle's party, and conduct them to the mouth of the St. Joseph. The pilot of the Griffin was under instruction to bring her there. Indeed; the conduct of the whole expedition leaves no room to doubt that the whole route to the Illinois River, by way of the St. Joseph and the Kankakee port- age, was well known at Mackinaw, and definitely fixed upon by La Salle, at least be- fore leaving the latter plajse. 74 HISTOKIC KOTBS ON THE NORTHWEST. fourteen men than thirty-two with provisions. We said further that it would be quite impossible, if we delayed longer, to continue the voyage until the winter was over, because the rivers would be frozen over and we could not make use of our canoes. Notwithstanding these reasons, M. La Salle thought it necessary to remain for the rest of the men, as we would be in no condition to appear before the Illi- nois and treat with them with our present small force, whom they would meet with scorn. That it would be better to delay our entry into their country, and in the meantime try to meet with some of their nation, learn their language, and gain their good will by presents. La Salle concluded his discourse with the declaration that, although all of his men might run away, as for himself, he would remain alone with his Indian hunter, and find means to maintain the three missionaries— meaning me and my two clerical brethren. Having come to this con- clusion, La Salle called his men together, and advised them that he expected each one to do his duty ; that he proposed to build a fort here for the security of the ship and the safety of our goods, and our- selves, too, in case of any disaster. None of us, at this time, knew that our ship had been lost. The men were quite dissatisfied at Lar Salle's course, but his reasons therefor were so many that they yielded, and agreed to entirely follow his directions. " Just at the mouth of the river was an eminence with a kind of plateau, naturally fortified. It was quite steep, of a triangular shape, defended on two sides by the river, and on the other by a deep ravine which the water had washed out. We felled the trees that grew on this hill, and cleared from it the bushes for the distance of two musket shot. We began to build a redoubt about forty feet long by eighty broad, with great square pieces of timber laid one upon the other, and then cut a great number of stakes, some twenty feet long, to drive into the ground on the river side, to make the fort inaccessible in. that direc- tion. We were employed the whole of the month of November in this work, which was very fatiguing, — having no other food than the bears our savage killed. These animals are here very abundant, be- cause of the great quantity of grapes they find in this vicinity. Their flesh was so fat and luscious that our men grew weary of it, and desired to go themselves and hunt for wild goats. La Salle denied them that liberty, which made some murmurs among the men, and they went unwillingly to their work. These annoyances, with the near approach of winter, together with the apprehension that his ship was lost, gave La Salle a melancholy which he resolutely tried to but could not con- ceal. "We made a hut wherein we performed divine service every Sun- FOET MI AMIS. 75 day ; and Father Gabriel and myself, who preached alternately, care- fully selected such texts as were suitable to our situation, and fit to inspire us with courage, concord, and brotherly love. Our exhorta- tions produced good results, and deterred our men from their meditated desertion. We sounded the mouth of the river and found a sand-bar, on which we feared our expected ship might strike ; we marked out a channel through which the vessel might safely enter by attaching buoys, made of inflated bear-skins, fastened to long poles driven into the bed of the lake. Two men were also sent back to Mackinac to await there the return of the ship, and serve as pilots.* " M. Tonti arrived on the 20th of November with two canoes, laden with stags and deer, which were a welcome refreshment to our men. He did not bring more than about one-half of his men, having left the rest on the opposite side of the lake, within three days' journey of the fort. La Salle (was angry with him on this account, because he was afraid the men would run away. Tonti's party informed us that the Griffin had not put into Mackinaw, according to orders, and that they had heard nothing of her since our departure, although they had made inquiries of the savages living on the coast of the lake. This confirmed the suspicion, or rather the belief, that the vessel had been cast away. However, M. La Salle continued work on the building of the fort, which was at last completed and called Fort Miamis. " The winter was drawing nigh, and La Salle, fearful that the ice would interrupt his voyage, sent M. Tonti back to hurry forward the men he had left, and to command them to come to him immediately ; but, meeting with a violent storm, their canoes were driven against the beach and broken to pieces, and Tonti's men lost their guns and equipage, and were obliged to return to us overland. A few days. ■ after this all our men arrived except two, who had deserted. We pre- pared at once to resume our voyage ; rains having fallen that melted the ice and made the rivers navigable. " On the 3d of December, 1679, we embarked, being in all thirty- three men, in eight canoes. We left the lake of the Illinois and went up the river of the Miamis, in which we had previously made soundings. We made about five-and-twenty leagues southward, but failed to discover the place where we were to land, and carry our canoes and eifects into the river of the Illinois, which falls into that of the Meschasipi, that is, in the language of the Illinois, the great river. We had already gone beyond the place of the portage, and, not know- ing where we were, we thought proper to remain there, as we were expecting M. La Salle, who had taken to the land to view the country. * This is the beginning, at what is now known as Benton Harbor, Michigan. 76 HISTORIC KOTES ON THE NOBTHWEST. "We staid here quite a while, and, La Salle failing to appear, I went a distance into the woods with two men, who fired off their guns to notify him of the place where we were. In the meantime two other men went higher up the river, in canoes, in search of him. We all returned toward evening, having vainly endeavored to find him. The next day I went up the river myself, but, hearing nothing of him, 1 came hack, and found our men very much perplexed, fearing he was lost. However, about four o'clock in the afternoon M. La Salle returned to us, having his face and hands as black as pitch. He carried two beasts, as big as muskrats, whose skin was very fine, and like ermine. He had killed them with a stick, as they hung by their tails to the branches of the trees. " He told us that the marshes he had met on his way had compelled him to bring a large compass ; and that, being much delayed by the snow, which fell very fast, it was past midnight before he arrived upon the banks of the river, where he fired his gun twice, and, hearing no answer, he concluded that we had gone higher up the river, and had, therefore, marched that way. He added that, after three hours' march, he saw a fire upon a little hill, whither he went directly and hailed us several times ; but, hearing no reply, he approached and found no per- son near the fire, but only some dry grass, upon which a man had laid a little while before, as he conjectured, because the bed was still warm. He supposed that a savage had been occupying it, who fled upon his approach, and was now hid in ambusdade near by. La Salle called out loudly to him in two or three languages, saying that he need not be afraid of him, and that he was agoing to lie in his bed. La Salle received no answer. To guard against surprise, La Salle cut bushes and placed them to obstruct the way, and sat down by the fire, the smoke of which blackened his hands and face, as I have already observed. Hav- ing warmed and rested himself, he laid down under the tree upon the dry grass the savage had gathered and slept well, notwithstanding the frost and snow. Father Gabriel and I desired him to keep with his men, and not to expose himself in the future, as the success of our enterprise depended solely on him, and he promised to follow our advice. Our savage, who remained behind to hunt, finding none of us at the portage, came higher up the river, to where we were, and told us we had missed the place. "We sent all the canoes back under his charge except one, which I retained for M. La Salle, who was so weary that he was obliged to remain there that night. I made a little hut with mats, constructed with marsh rushes, in which we laid down together for the night. By an unhappy accident our cabin took fire, and we were very near being burned alive after we had gone to sleep." ABORIGINAL NAME OF "KANKAKEE." 77 Here follows Hennepin's description of the Kankakee portage, and of the marshy grounds about the headwaters of this stream, as already quoted on page 24. " Having passed through the marshes, we came to a vast prairie, in ■which nothing grows but grasses, which were at this time dry and burnt, because the Miamis set the grasses on fire every year, in hunt- ing for wild oxen (buffalo), as I shall mention farther on. We found no game, which was a disappointment to us, as our provisions had begun to faU. Our men traveled about sixty miles without killing anything other than a lean stag, a small wild goat, a few swan and two bustards, which were but a scanty subsistence for two and thirty men. Most of the men were become so weary of this laborious life that, were it practicable, they would have run away and joined the savages, who, as we inferred by the great fires which we saw on the prairies, were not very far from us. There must be an innumerable quantity of wild cattle in this country, since the ground here is every- where covered with their horns. The Miamis hunt them toward the latter end of autumn."* That part of the Illinois River above the Desplaines is called the Kankakee, which is a corruption of its original Indian name. St. Cosme, the narrative of whose voyage down the Illinois Eiver, by way of Chicago, in 1699, and found in Dr. Shea's work of " Early Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi," refers to it as the The-a-li-ke, " which is the real river of the Illinois, and (says) that which we de- scended (the Desplaines) was only a branch." Father Marest, in his letter of November 9, 1712, narrating a journey he had previously made from Kaskaskia up to the Mission of St. Joseph, says of the Illi- nois River : " We transported all there was in the canoe toward the source of the Illinois (Indian), which they call Hau-ki-ki." Father Charlevoix, who descended the Kankakee from the portage, in his let- ter, dated at the source of the river Theakiki, September 17, 1721, says : " This morning I walked a league farther in the meadow, having my feet almost always in the water ; afterward I met with a kind of a pool or marsh, which had a communication with several others of dif- ferent sizes, but the largest was about a hundred paces in circuit ; these are the sources of the river The-a-ki-ki, which, by a corrupted pronun- ciation, our Indians call Ki-a-ki-ki. Theak signifies a wolf, in what language I do not remember, but the river bears that name because the Mahingans (Mohicans), who were likewise called wolves, had formerly * Hennepin and Ms party were not aware of the migratory habits of the buffalo ; and that their scarcity on the Kankakee in the winter months was because the herds had gone southward to warmer latitude and better pasturage. 78 • HISTORIC KOTES ON THE NOETHWEST. taken refuge on its banks." * The Mohicans were of the Algonquin stock, anciently living east of the Hudson River, where they had been so persecuted and nearly destroyed by the implacable Iroquois that their tribal integrity was lost, and they were dispersed in small fami- lies over the west, seeking protection in isolated places, or living at sufferance among their Algonquin kindred. They were brave, faithful to the extreme, famous scouts, and successful hunters. La Salle, ap- preciating these valuable traits, usually kept a few of them in his em- ploy. The " savage," or " hunter," so often referred to by Hennepin, in the extracts we have taken from his journal, was a Mohican. In a report made to the late Governor Ninian Edwards, in 1812, by John Hays, interpreter and Coureur de Bois of the routes, rivers and Indian villages in the then Illinois Territory, Mr. Hays calls the Kankakee the Quin-que-que, which was probably its French-Indian name.f Col. Guerdon S. Hubbard, who for many years, dating back as early as 1819, was a trader, and commanded great influence with the bands of Pottawatomies, claiming the Kankakee as their country, informs the writer that the Pottawatomie name of the Kankakee is Ky-an-ke-a-kee, meaning " the river of the wonderful or beautiful land, — as it really is, westward of the marshes. "A-kee," "Ah-ke " and "Aki," in the Algonquin dialect, signifies earth or land. The name Desplaines, like that of the Kankakee, has undergone changes in the progress of time. On a French map of Louisiana, in 1717, the Desplaines is laid down as the Chicago River. Just after Great Britain had secured the possessions of the French east of the Mississippi, by conquest and treaty, and when the British authorities were keenly alive to everything pertaining to their newly acquired possessions, an elaborate map, collated from the most authentic sources by Eman Bowen, geographer to His Majesty King George the Third, was issued, and on this map the Desplaines is laid down as the Illinois, or Chicago River. Many early French writers speak of it, as they do of the Kankakee above the confluence, as the " River of the Illi- nois." Its French Canadian name is Au Plein, now changed to Des- plaines, or Riviere Au Plein, or Despleines, from a variety of hard maple, — that is to say, sugar tree. The Pottawatomies called it She- shik-mao-shi-ke Se-pe, signifying the river of the tree from which a great quantity of sap flows in the spring.;]: It has also been sanctifled by Father Zenobe Membre with the name Divine River, and by authors .r,a*, Cliarlevoix' " Journal of a Voyage to America," vol. 2, p. 184. London edition, fHisto^of Illinois and life of Governor Edwards," by his son Ninian W Jjidwards, p. 98. j: Long's Second Expedition, vol. 1, p. 173. NAMES OF THE ILLIITOIS. 79 of early western gazetteers, vulgarized by the appellation of Kickajpoo Creek. Below the confluence of the Desplaines, the Illinois Eiver was, by La Salle, named the Seignelay, as a mark of his esteem for the brilliant young Colbert, who succeeded his father as Minister of the Marine. On the great map, prepared by the engineer Franquelin in 1684, it is called Elver Des Illinois, or Macoupins. The name Illinois, which, fortunately, it will always bear, was derived from the name of the con- federated tribes who anciently dwelt upon its banks. "We continued our course," says Hennepin, " upon this river (the Kankakee and Illinois) very near the whole month of December, at the latter end of which we arrived at a village of the Illinois, which lies near a hundred and thirty leagues from Fort Miamis, on the Lake of the Illinois. We suffered greatly on the passage, for the savages having set fire to the grass on the prairie, the wild cattle had fled, and we did not kill one. Some wild turkeys were the only game we secured. God's providence supported us all the while, and as we meditated upon the extremities to which we were reduced, regarding ourselves without hope of relief, we found a very large wild ox stick- ing fast in the mud of the river. We killed him, and with much difli- culty dragged him out of the mud. This was a great refreshment to our men; it revived their courage, — being so timely and unexpectedly relieved, they conchaded that God approved our undertaking. The great village of the Illinois, where La Salle's party had now arrived, has been located with such certainty bj' Francis Parkman, the learned historical writer, as to leave no doubt of its identity. It was on the north side of the Illinois Kiver, above the mouth of the Yermillion and below Starved Rock, near the little village of Utica, in La Salle county, Illinois.* " We found," continues Father Hennepin, " no one in the village, as we had foreseen, for the Illinois, according to their custom, had di- vided themselves into small hunting parties. Their absence caused great perplexity amongst us, for we wanted provisions, and yet did not dare to meddle with the Indian corn the savages had laid under ground for their subsistence and for seed. However, our necessity be- ing very great, and it being impossible to continue our voyage without any provisions, M. La Salle resolved to take about forty bushels of corn, and hoped to appease the savages with presents. We embarked again, with these fresh provisions, and continued to fall down the river, * Mr. Parkman gives an interesting account of his recent visit to, and the identifi- cation of, the locality, in an elaborate note in his " Discovery of the Great West," pp. 221, 222. 80 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. which runs directly toward the south. On the Ist of January we went through a lake (Peoria Lake) formed by the river, about seven leagues long and one broad. The savages call that place Pimeteoui, that is, in their tongue, ' a place where there is an abundance of fat animals. ' * Kesuming Hennepin's narrative : " The current brought us, in the meantime, to the Indian camp, and M. La Salle was the first one to land, followed closely by his men, which increased the consterna- tion of the savages, whom we easily might have defeated. As it was not our design, we made a halt to give them time to recover them- selves and to see that we were not enemies. Most of the savages who had run away upon our landing, understanding that we were friends, returned ; but some others did not come back for three or four days, and after they had learned that we had smoked the calumet. " I must observe here, that the hardest winter does not last longer than two months in this charming country, so that on the 15th of Jan- uary there came a sudden thaw, which made the rivers navigable, and the weather as mild as it is in France in the middle of the spring. M. La Salle, improving this fair season, desired me to go down the river with him to choose a place proper to build a fort. "We selected an eminence on the bank of the river, defended on that side by the river, and on two others by deep ravines, so that it was accessible only on one side. We cast a trench to join the two ravines, and made the eminence steep on that side, supporting the earth with great pieces of timber. We made a rough palisade to defend ourselves in case the Indians should attack us while we were engaged in building the fort ; but no one offering to disturb us, we went on diligently with our work. ♦Louis Beck, in his "Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri," p. 119, says: "The Indi- ans call the lake Pin-a-tah-wee, on account of its being frequently covered with a scum which has a greasy appearance." Owing to the rank growth of aquatic plants in the Illinois River before they were disturbed by the frequent passage of boats, and to the grasses on the borders of the stream and the adjacent marshes, and the decay taking place in both under the scorching rays of the summer's sun, the surface of the river and lake were frequently coated with this vegetable decomposition. Prof. School- craft ascended the Illinois River, and was at Fort Clark on the 19th of August, 1821. Under this date is the following extract from his "Narrative Journal": "AlDout 9 o'clock in the morning we came to a part of the river which was covered for several hundred yards with a scum or froth of the most intense green color, and emitting a nauseous exhalation that was almost insupportable. We were compelled to pass through it. The fine green color of this somewhat compact scum, resembling that of verdegiis, led us at the moment to conjecture that it might derive this character from some mineral spring or vein in the bed of the river, but we had reasons afterward to regret this opinion. I directed one of the canoe men to collect a bottle of this mother of miasmata for preservation, but its fermenting nature baffled repeated at- tempts to keep it corked. We had daily seen instances of the powerful tendency of these waters to facilitate the decomposition of floating vegetation, but had not before observed any in so mature and complete a state of putrefaction. It might certainly justify an observer less given to fiction than the ancient poets, to people this stream with the Hydra, as were the pestilential-breeding marshes of Italy.' —Schoolcraft's "Central Mississippi Valley," p. 305. FORT CEEVECOEUK AND ITS LOCATIOK. 81 When the fort was half finished, M. La Salle lodged himself, with M. Tonti, in the middle of the fortification, and every one took his post. We placed the forge on the curtain on the side of the wood, and laid in a great quantity of coal for that purpose. But our greatest diffi- culty was to build a boat, — our carpenters having deserted us, we did not know what to do. However, as timber was abundant and near at hand, we told our men that if any of them would undertake to saw boards for building the bark, we might surmount all other difficulties. Two of the men undertook the task, and succeeded so well that we began to build a bark, the keel whereof was forty-two feet long. Our men went on so briskly with the work, that on the 1st of March our boat was half built, and all the timber ready prepared for furnishing it. Our fort was also very near finished, and we named it ' Fort Creve- cceur, ' because the desertion of our men, and other difficulties we had labored under, had almost ' broken our hearts. ' * " M. La Salle," says Hennepin, " no longer doubted that the Griffin was lost; but neither this nor other difficulties dejected him. His great courage buoyed him up, and he resolved to return to Fort Fron- tenac by land, notwithstanding the snow, and the great dangers attend- ing so long a journey. We had many private conferences, wherein it was decided that he should return to Fort Frontenac with three men, to bring with him the necessary articles to proceed with the discov- ery, while I, with two men, should go in a canoe to the River Me- schasipi, and endeavor to obtain the friendship of the nations who inhabited its banks. "M. La Salle left. M. Tonti to command in Fort Crevecceur, and ordered our carpenter to prepare some thick boards to plank the deck of our ship, in the nature of a parapet, to cover it against the arrows of the savages in case they should shoot at us from the shore. Then, calling his men together. La Salle requested them to obey M. Tonti's orders in his absence, to live in Christian union and charity ; to be courageous and firm in their designs ; and above all not to give credit to false reports the savages might make, either of him or of their com- rades who accompanied Father Hennepin." Hennepin and his two companions, with a supply of trinkets suitable * "Fort Crevecceur," or the Broken Heart, was built on the east side of the Illi- noie River, a short distance below the outlet of Peoria Lake. It is so located on the great map of Franquelin, made at Quebec in 1684. There are many indications on this map, going to snow that it was constructed largely under the supervision of La- Salle. The fact mentioned by Hennepin, that they went down the river, and that coal was gathered for the supply of the rort, would confirm this theory as to its location; for the outcrop of coal is abundant in the bluffs on the east side of the river below Peoria. There is also a spot in this immediate vicinity that answers well to the site of the fort as described by Fathers Hennepin and Membre. 6 82 HISTORIC NOTES OS THE NORTHWEST. for the Indian trade, left Fort Crevecceur for the Mississippi, on the 29th of February, 1680, and were captured by the Sioux, as already stated. From this time to the ultimate discovery and taking possession of th^ Mississippi and the valleys by La Salle, Father Zenobe Membre was the historian of the expe(^ition. La Salle started across the country, going up the Illinois and Kan- kakee, and through the southern part of the present State of Michigan. He reached the Detroit Eiver, ferrying the stream with a raft ; he at length stood on Canadian soil. Striking a direct line across the wilder- ness, he arrived at Lake Erie, near Point Pelee. By this time only one man remained in health, and with his assistance La Salle made a canoe. Embarking in it the party came to Niagara on Easter Monday. Leaving his comrades, who were completely exhausted, La Salle on the 6th of May reached Fort Frontenac, making a journey of over a thou- sand miles in sixty-five days, " the greatest feat ever performed by a Frenchman in America."* La Salle found his affairs in great confusion. His creditors had seized upon his estate, including Fort Frontenac. Undaunted by this new misfortune, he confronted his creditors and enemies, pacifying the former and awing the latter into silence. He gathered the fragments of his scattered property and in a short time started west with a com- pany of twenty-five men, whom he had recruited to assist in the prose- cution of his discoveries. He reached Lake Huron by the way of Lake Simcoe, and shortly afterward arrived at Mackinaw. Here lie found that his enemies had been very busy, and had poisoned the minds of the Indians against his designs. We leave La Salle at Mackinaw to notice some of the occurrences that took place on the Illinois and St. Joseph after he had departed for Fort Frontenac. On this journey, as La Salle passed up the Illinois, he was favorably impressed with Starved Kock as a place presenting strong defenses naturally. He sent word back to Tonti, below Peoria Lake, to take possession of " The Rock " and erect a fortification on its summit. Tonti accordingly came up the river with a part of his avail- able force and began to work upon the new fort. "While engaged in this enterprise the principal part of the men remaining at Fort Creve- cceur mutinied. They destroyed the vessel on the stocks, plundered the storehouse, escaped up the Illinois River and appeared before Fort Miami. These deserters demolished Fort Miami and robbed it of goods and furs of La Salle, on deposit there, and then fled out of the country. These misfortunes were soon followed by an incursion of the Iroquois, * Parkman's " Discovery of the Great West." DEATH OF FATHER GABRIEL. 83 "who attacked the Illinois in their village near the Starved Rock. Tonti, acting as mediator, came near losing his life at the hand of an infuriated Iroquois warrior, who drove a knife into his ribs. Constantly an object of distrust to the Illinois, who feared he was a spy. and friend of the Iroquois, in turn exposed to the jealousy of the Iroquois, who imag^ ined he and his French friends were allies of the Illinois, Tonti xemained faithful to his trust until he saw that he could not avert the blow meditated by the Iroquois. Then, with Fathers Zenobe' Membre and Gabriel Rebourde, and a few Frenchmen who had remained faith- ful, he escaped from the enraged Indians and made his way, in a leaky ■canoe, up the Illinois River. Father Gabriel one fine day left his com- panions on the river to enjoy a walk in the beautiful groves near by, and while thus engaged, and as he was meditating upon his holy call- ing, fell into an ambuscade of Kickapoo Indians. The good old man, unconscious of his danger, was instantly knocked down, the scalp torn from his venerable head, and his gray hairs afterward exhibited in tri- umph by his young murderers as a trophy taken from the crown of an Iroquois warrior. Tonti, with those in his company, pursued his course, - passing by Chicago, and thence up the west shore of Lake Michigan. Subsisting on berries, and often on acorns and roots which they dug from the ground, they finally arrived at the Pottawatomie towns. Pre- vious to this they abandoned their canoe and started on foot for the Mission of Green Bay, where they wintered. La Salle, when he arrived at St. Joseph, found Fort Miamis plun- dered and demolished. He also learned that the Iroquois had attacked the Illinois. Fearing for the safety of Tonti, he pushed on rapidly, ' only to find, at Starved Rock, the unmistakable signs of an Indian slaughter. The report was true. The Iroquois had defeated the Illi- nois and driven them west of the Mississippi. La Salle viewed the wreck of his cherished project, the demolition of the fort, the loss of his peltries, and especially the destruction of his vessel, in that usual calm way peculiar to him ; and, although he must have suffered the most intense anguish, no trace of sorrow or indecision appeared on his inflexible countenance. Shortly afterward he returned to Fort Miamis. La Salle occupied his time, until spring, in rebuilding Fort Miamis, holding conferences with the surrounding Indian tribes, and confeder- ating them against future attacks of the Iroquois. He now abandoned the purpose of descending the Mississippi in a sailing vessel, and de- termined to prosecute his voyage in the ordinary wooden pirogues or canoes. Tonti was sent forward to Chicago Creek, where he constructed a number of sledges. After other preparations had been made, La Salle 84 HISTORIC NOTES OST THE NORTHWEST. and his party left St. Joseph and came around the southern extremity of the lake. The goods and effects were placed on the sledges pre- pared by Tonti. La Salle's party consisted of twenty-three French- men and eighteen Indians. The savages took with them ten squaws and three children, so that the party numbered in all fifty-four persons. They had to make the portage of the Chicago River. After dragging their canoes, sledges, baggage and provisions about eighty leagues over the ice, on the Desplaines and Illinois Eivers, they came to the great Indian town. . It was deserted, the savages having gone down the river to Lake Peoria. From Peoria Lake the navigation was open, and embarking, on the 6th of February, they soon arrived at the Mis- sissippi. Here, owing to floating ice, they were delayed till the 13th of the same month. Membre describes the Missouri as follows: "It is full as large as the Mississippi, into which it empties, troubling it so that, from the mouth of the Ozage (Missouri), the water is hardly drinkable. The Indians assured us that this river is formed by many others, and that they ascend it for ten or twelve days to a mountain where it rises ; that beyond this mountain is the sea, where they see great ships ; that on the river are a great number of large villages. Although this river is very large, the Mississippi does not seem aug- mented by it, but it pours in so much mud that, from its mouth, the water of the great river, whose bed is also slimy, is more like clear mud than river water, without changing at all till it reaches the sea, a distance of more than three hundred leagues, although it receives seven large rivers, the water of which is very beautiful, and which are almost as large as the Mississippi." From this time, until they neared the mouths of the Mississippi, nothing especially worthy of note occurred. On the 6th of April they came to the place where the river divides itself into three channels. M. La Salle took the western, the Sieur Dautray the southern, and Tonti, accompanied by Membre, followed the middle channel. The three channels were beautiful and deep. The water became brackish, and two leagues farther it became perfectly salt, and advancing on they at last beheld the Gulf of Mexico. La Salle, in a canoe, coasted the borders of the sea, and then the parties assembled on a dry spot of ground not far from the mouth of the river. On the 9th of April, with all the pomp and ceremony of the Holy Catholic Church, La Salle, in the name of the French King^ took pos- session of the Mississippi and all its tributaries. First they chanted the " Yexilla Eegis " and " Te Deum," and then, while the assembled voyageurs and their savage attendants fired their muskets and shouted " Vive le Eoi," La Salle planted the column, at the same time pro- claiming, in a loud voice, " In the name of the Most High, Mighty, TAKING POSSESSION OF LOUISIANA. 85 Invincible, and Yictorions Prince, Louis tlie Great, by the Grace of God King of France and of Navarre, Fourteenth of that name, I, this 9th day of April, one thousand six hundred and eighty-two, in virtue of the commission of His Majesty, which I hold in my hand, and which may be seen by all whom it may concern, have taken, and do now take, in the name of His Majesty and his successors to the crown, posses- sion of this country of Louisiana, the seas, harbors, ports, bays, adjacent straits, and all the people, nations, provinces, cities, towns, villages, mines, minerals, fisheries, streams and rivers within the extent of the said Louisiana, from the mouth of the great river St. Louis, otherwise called Ohio, as also along the river Colbert, or Mississippi, and the rivers which discharge themselves therein, from its source beyond the country of the Nadonessious (Sioux), as far as its mouth at the sea, and also to the mouth of the river of Palms, upon the assurance we have had from the natives of these countries that we were the first Europeans who have descended or ascended the river Colbert (Missis- sippi) ; hereby protesting against all who may hereafter undertake to invade any or all of these aforesaid countries, peoples or lands, to the prejudice of His Majesty, acquired by the consent of the nations dwelling herein. Of which, and of all else that is needful, I hereby take to witness those who hear me, and demand an act of the notary here present." At the foot of the tree to which the cross was attached La Salle caused to be buried a leaden plate, on one side of which were engraven the arms of France, and on the opposite, the following Latin inscription: LVDOVICUS MAGNUS REGNAT. NONO APRILIS CIO IOC LXXXII. ROBERTVS CAVALIER, CVM DOMINO DETONTI LEGATO, R. P. ZENOBIO MEMBRE, RECCOLLECTO, ET VI6INTI GALLIS PRIMVS HOC FLVMEN, ■ INDE AB ILINEORVM PAGO ENAVAGAVIT, EZVQUE OSTIVM FECIT PERVIVM, NONO APRILIS ANNI. CIO IOC LXXXI. Note. — ^The following is a translation of the inscription on the leaden plate: " Louis the Great reigns. "Robert Cavalier, with Lord Tonti as Lieutenant, R. P. Zenobe Membre, Recollect, and twenty Frenchmen, first navigated this stream from the country of the Illinois, and also passed through its mouth, on the 9th of April, 1682." After which. La Salle remarked that His Majesty, who was the «ldest son of the Holy Catholic Church, would not annex any country to his dominion without giving especial attention to establish' the 86 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOKTHWEST. Christian religion therein. He then proceeded at once to erect a cross, before which the "Vexilla" and "Domine Salvum fac Kegem" were sung. The ceremony was concluded by shouting "Vive le Eoi ! " Thus was completed the discovery and taking possession of the Mississippi valley. By that indisputable title, the right of discovery, attested by all those formalities recognized as essential by the laws of nations, the manuscript evidence of which was duly certified by a no- tary public brought along for that purpose, and witnessed by the sig- natures of La Salle and a number of other persons present on the occa- sion, jFrance became the owner of all that vast country drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries. Bounded by the Alleghanies on the east, and the Kocky Mountains on the west, and extending from an undefined limit on the north to the burning sands of the Gulf on the south. Embracing within its area every variety of climate, watered with a thousand beautiful streams, containing vast prairies and exten- sive forests, with a rich and fertile soil that only awaited the husband- man's skill to yield bountiful harvests, rich in vast beds of bituminous coal and deposits of iron, copper and other ores, this magnificent domain was not to become the seat of a religious dogma, enforced by the power of state, but was designed under the hand of God to become the center of civilization, — the heart of the American republic, — where the right of conscience was to be free, without interference of law, and where universal liberty should Only be restrained in so far as its unre- strained exercise might confiict with its equal enjoyment by all. Had France, with the same energy she displayed in discovering Louisiana, retained her grasp upon this territory, the dominant race in the valley of the Mississippi would have been Gallic instead of Anglo- Saxon. The manner in which France lost this possession in America will be referred to in a subsequent chapter. CHAPTEE XI. LA SALLE'S RETURN, AND HIS DEATH IN ATTEMPTING A SETTLEMENT ON THE GULF. La Salle and his party returned up the Mississippi. Before they reached Chickasaw Bluffs, La Salle was taken dangerously ill. Dispatching Tonti ahead to Mackinaw, he remained there under the care of Father Membre. About the end of July he was enabled to proceed, and joined Tonti at Mackinaw, in September. Owing to the threatened invasion of the Iroquois, La Salle postponed his projected trip to France, and passed the winter at Fort St. Louis. From Fort St. Louis, it would seem, La Salle directed a letter to Count Frontenac, giving an account of his voyage to the Mississippi. It is short and his- torically interesting, and was first published in that rare little volume, Thevenot's " Collection of Voyages," published at Paris in 1687. This letter contains, perhaps, the first description of Chicago Creek and the liarbor, and as everything pertaining to Chicago of a historical charac- ter is a matter of public interest, we insert La Salle's account. It seems that, even at that early day, almost two centuries ago, the idea of a canal connecting Lake Michigan and the Illinois was a subject of consideration ; ^' The creek (Chicago Creek) through which we went, from the lake of the Illinois into the Divine Eiver (the Au Plein, or Des Plaines) is so shallow and so greatly exposed to storms that no ship can venture in except in a great calm. Neither is the country between the creek and the Divine River suitable for a canal ; for the prairies between them are submerged after heavy rains, and a canal would be immedi- ately filled up with sand. Besides this, it is not possible to dig into the ground on account of the water, that country being nothing but a marsh. Supposing it were possible, however, to cut a canal, it would be useless, as the Divine River is not navigable for forty leagues together ; that is to say, from that place (the portage) to the village of the Illinois, except for canoes, and these have scarcely water enough in summer time." ' The identity of the " River Chicago," of early explorers, with the modern stream of the same name, is clearly established by the map of Franquelin of 1684:, as well, also, as by the Memoir of Sieur de Tonti. 87 :88 ■ HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOKTHWEST. The latter had occasion to pass through the Chicago River more fre- quently than any other person of his time, and his intimate acquaint- ance with the Indians in the vicinity would necessarily place his decla- rations beyond the suspicion of a mistake. Eeferring to his being sent in the fall of 1687, by La Salle, from Fort Miamis, at the mouth of the St. Joseph, to Chicago, already alluded to, he says : " We went in canoes to the ' Eiver Chicago,' where there is a portage which joins that of the Illinois." * The name of this river is variously spelled by early writers, " Chi- cagon,"i- " Che-ka-kou," :]: "Chikgoua."§ In the prevailing Algonquin language the word signifies a polecat or skunk. The Aborigines, also, called garlic by nearly the same word, from which many authors have inferred that Chicago means "wild onion." | While La Salle was in the west. Count Frontenac was removed, and M. La Barre appointed Governor of Canada. The latter was the avowed enemy of La Salle. He injured La Salle in every possible * Tonti's Memoir, published in the Historical Collections of Louisiana, vol. 1, p. 59. t Joutel's Journal. i La Hontan. § Father Gravier's Narrative Journal, published in Dr. Shea's "Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi." II A writer of a historical sketch, published in a late number of "Potter's Monthly," on the isolated statement of an old resident of western Michigan, says that the Indi- ans living thereabouts subsequent to the advent of the early settlers called Chicago "Tuck-Chicago," the meaning of which was, "a place without wood," and thus in- vesting a mere fancy with the dignity of truth. The great city of the west has taken its namie from the stream along whose margin it was first laid out, and it becomes im- portant to preserve the origin of its name with whatever certainty a research of all accessible authorities may furnish. In the first place, Chicago was not a place "with- out wood," or trees; on the contrary, it is the only locality where timber was anything like abundant for the distance of miles around. The north and south branches west- ward, and the lake on the east, afforded ample protection against prairie fires; and Dr. John M. Peck, in his early Gazetteer of the state, besides other authorities, especially mention the fact that there was a good quality of timber in the vicinity of Cnicago, particularly on the north branch. There is nowhere to be found in the several Indian vocabularies of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Dr. Edwin James, and the late Albert Gal- latin, in their extensive collections of Algonquin words, any expressions like those used by the writer in Potter's Monthly, bearing the signification which he attaches to them. In Mackenzie's Vocabulary, the Algonquin word for polecat is "Shi-kak." In Dr. James' Vocabulary, the word for skunk is "She-gahg (shegag); and Shig-gau-ga-win- zheeg is the plural for onion or garlic, literally, in the Indian dialect, "skunk- weeds." Dr. James, m a foot-note, says that from this word in the singular number, some have derived the narne Chi-ka-go, which is commonly pronounced among the Indians, Shig- gau-go, and Shi-gau-go-ong (meaning) at Chicago. An association of English traders, styling themselves the "Illinois Land Compa- ny, on the 5th of July, 1773, obtained from ten chiefs of the KaskasMa, Cahokia and Peo^a tribes, a deed for two large tracts of land. The second tract, in the description of ite boundaries, contains the following expression: "and thence up the Illinois River, by the several courses thereof, to Chicago, or Garlic Creek; " and it may safely be as- sumed that the parties to the deed knew the names given to identify the grant. Were an additional reference necessary. "Wau Bun," the valuable work of Mrs. John H. Kinzie, might also be cited, p. 190. The Iroquois, who made frequent predatory excursions from their homes in New York to the Illinois country, called Chicago Kan- era-ghik; vide Cadwalder Colden's " History of the Five Nations." MISFORTUNES OF LA SALLE'S COLOlfY. 89 way, and finally seized upon Fort Frontenac. To obtain redress, La- Salle went to France, reaching Eochelle on the 13th of December, 1683. Seignelay (young Colbert), Secretary of State and Minister of the Marine, was appealed to by La Salle, and became interested and furnished him timely aid in his enterprise. Before leaving America La Salle ordered Tonti to proceed and finish " Fort St. Louis," as the fortification at Starved Rock, on the Illinois Eiver, was named. " He charged me," says Tonti, " with the duty to go and finish Fort St. Louis, of which he gave me the government, with full power to dispose of the lands in the neighborhood, and left all his people under my command, with the exception of six French- men, whom he took to accompany him to Quebec. We departed from Mackinaw on the same day, he for Canada and I for the Illinois.* On his mission to France La Salle was received with honor by the king and his officers, and the accounts which he gave relative to Louisiana caused them to further his plans for its colonization. A squadron of four vessels was fitted out, the largest carrying thirty-six guns. About two hundred persons were embarked aboard of them for the purpose long projected, as we have foreseen, of establishing a settlement at the mouth of the Mississippi. The fleet was under the command of M. de Beaujeu, a naval officer of some distinction. He was punctilious in the exercise of authority, and had a wiry, nervous organization, as the portrait preserved of him clearly shows.f La Salle was austere, and lacked that faculty of getting along with men, for the want of which many of his best-laid plans failed. A constant bickering and collision of cross purposes was the natural result of such repellant natures as he and Beaujeu possessed. After a stormy passage of the Atlantic, the fleet entered the Gulf of Mexico. Coasting along the northern shore of the gulf, they failed to discover the mouths of the Mississippi. Passing them, they finally landed in what is now known as Matagorda Bay, or the Bay of St. Barnard, near the Kiver Colorado, in Texas, more than a hundred leagues westward of the Mississippi. The whole number of persons left on the beach is not definitely known. M. Jontel, one of the sur- vivors, and the chronicler of this unfortunate undertaking, mentions one hundred and eighty, besides the crew of the " Belle," which was lost on the beach, consisting of soldiers, volunteers, workmen, women and children.:]: The colony being in a destitute condition. La Salle, *Tonti's Memoir. t A fine steel engraving copy of Mons. Beaujeu is contained in Dr. Shea's transla- tion of Charlevoix's " History of New France." t Spark's ' ' Life of La Salle. ' ' 90 HISTOBIO NOTES ON THE NOBTHWEST. accompanied by Father Anastius Douay and twenty others, set out to reach the Mississippi, intending to ascend to Fort St. Louis, and there obtain aid from Tonti. They set out on the 7th of January, and after several days' journey, reached the village of the Cenis Indians. Here some of La Salle's men became dissatisfied with their hardships, and determined to slav him and then join the Indians. The tragic tale is thus related by Father Douay : « The wisdom of Monsieur de La Salle was unable to foresee the plot which some of his people would make to slay his nephew, as they suddenly resolved to do, and actually did, on the 17th of March, by a blow of an ax, dealt by one Liotot. They also killed the valet of the Sieur La Salle and his Indian ser- vant, Nika, who, at the risk of his life, had supported them for three years. The wretches resolved not to stop here, and not satisfied with this murder, formed a design of attempting their commander's life, as they had reason to fear his resentment and chastisement. As M. La Salle and myself were walking toward the fatal spot where his nephew had been slain, two of those murderers, who were hidden in the grass, arose, one on each side, with guns cocked. One missed Mon- sieur La Salle ; the other, firing at the same time, shot him in the head. He died an hour after, on the 19th of March, 1687. " Thus," says Father Douay, " died our commander, constant in ad- versity, intrepid, , generous, engaging, dexterous, skillful, capable of everything. He who for twenty years had softened the fierce temper of countless savage tribes was massacred by the hands of his own domes- tics, whom he had loaded with caresses. He died in the prime of life, in the midst of his course and labors, without having seen their success."* The colony which La Salle had left in Texas was surprised and destroyed by the Indians. Not a soul was left to give an account of the massacre. Of the twenty who accompanied him in his attempt to reach the Mississippi, Joutel, M. Cavalier, La Salle's brother, and four others determined to make a last attempt to find the Mississippi ;• the others, including La Salle's murderers, became the associates of the less brutal Indians, and of them we have no farther account. After a long and toilsome journey Joutel and his party reached the Mississippi near the mouth of the Arkansas. Here they found two men who had been sent by Tonti to relieve La Salle. Embarking in canoes, they went up the Mississippi, arrived at Fort St. Louis in safety, and finally returned to France by way of Quebec. Froni this period until 1698 the French made no further attempts to colonize the Lower Mississippi. They had no settlements below the * Father Douay 's Journal, contained in Dr. Shea's " Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi." BILOXI AND MOBILE FOUNDED. 91 Ohio, and above that river, on the Illinois and the upper lakes, were scattered only a few missions and trading posts. Realizing the great importance of retaining possession of the Mis- sissippi valley, the French court fitted out an expedition which con- sisted of four vessels, for the purpose of thoroughly exploring the mouth of the Mississippi and adjacent territory. Le Moyne Iberville was put in command of the expedition. He was the third of the eleven sons of Baron Longueil. They all held commissions from the king, and con- stituted one of the most illustrious of the French Canadian families. The fleet sailed from Brest, France, on the 24th of October, 1698. They came in sight of Florida on the 27th of January, 1699. They ran near the coast, and discovered that they were in the vicinity of Pensacola Bay. Here they found a colony of three hundred Spaniards. Sailing westward, they entered the mouth of the Mississippi on Quin- quagesima Monday, which was the 2d of March. Iberville ascended the river far enough to assure himself of its being the Mississippi, then, descending the river, he founded a colony at Biloxi Bay. Leaving his brother, M. de Sauvole, in command of the newly erected fort, he sailed for France. Iberville returned to Biloxi on the 8th of January, and, hearing that the English were exploring the Mississippi, he took formal possession of the Mississippi valley in the name of the. French king. He, also, erected a small foilr-gun fort on Poverty Point, 38 miles below New Orleans. The fort was constructed very rudely, and was occupied for only one year. In the year 1701 Iberville made a settlement at Mobile, and this soon became the principal French town on the gulf. The unavailing eiforts of the king in the scheme of colonization induced a belief that a greater prosperity would follow under the stimulus of individual enterprise, and he determined to grant Louisiana to Monsieur Crozat, with a monopoly of its mines, supposed to be valuable in gold and silver, together with the exclusive right of all its commerce for the period of fifteen years. The patent or grant of Louis to M. Crozat is an interesting document, not only because it passed the title of the Mississippi valley into the hands of one man, but for the reason that it embraces a part of the history of the country ceded. We, therefore, quote the most valuable part of it. The instrument bears date Sep- tember 12th, 1712 : " Louis (the fourteenth). King of France and Navarre ; To all who shall see these presents, greeting : The care we have always had to procure the welfare and advantage of our subjects, having induced us, notwithstanding the almost continual wars which we have been en- gaged to support from the beginning of our reign, to seek all possible opportunities of enlarging and extending the trade of our American ^2 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. colonies, we did, in the year 1683, give our orders to undertake a dis- covery of the countries and lands which are situated in the northern parts of America, between New France (Canada) and New Mexico. And the Sieur de La Salle, to whom we committed that enterprise, having had success enough to confirm the belief that a communication might be settled from New France to the Gulf of Mexico by means of large rivers ; this obliged us, immediately after the peace Of Kyewick (in 1697), to give orders for the establishment of a colony there (under Iberville in 1699), and maintaining a garrison, which has kept and preserved the possession we had taken in the year 1683, of the lands, coasts and islands which are situated in the Gulf of Mexico, between Carolina on the east, and old and New Mexico on the west. But a new war breaking out in Europe shortly after, there was no possi- bility till now of reaping from that new colony the advantages that might have been expected from thence ; because the private men who are concerned in the sea trade were all under engagements with the other colonies, which they have been obliged to follow. And where- as, upon the information we have received concerning the disposition and situation of the said countries, known at present by the name of the province of Louisiana, we are of opinion that there may be estab- lished therein a considerable commerce, so much the more advan- tageous to our kingdom in that there has been hitherto a necessity of fetching from foreigners the greatest part of the commodities that may be brought from thence ; and because in exchange thereof we need carry thither nothing but the commodities of the growth and manu- facture of our own kingdom ; we have resolved to grant the com- merce of the country of Louisiana to the Sieur Anthony Crozat, our counsellor, secretary of the household, crown and revenue, to whom we intrust the execution of this project. "We are the more readily inclined thereto because of his zeal and the singular knowledge he has acquired of maritime commerce, encourages us to hope for as good success as he has hitherto had in the divers and sundry enter- prises he has gone upon, and which have procured to our kingdom great quantities of gold and silver in such conjectures as have rendered them very welcome to us. For these reasons, being desirous to show our favor to him, and to regulate the conditions upon which we mean to grant him the said commerce, after having deliberated the affair in our council, of our own certain knowledge, full power and royal authority, we by these presents, signed by our hand, have appointed and do ap- point the said Sieur Crozat to carry on a trade in all the lands pos- sessed by us, and bounded by New Mexico and by the English of Caroli- na, all the establishments, ports, havens, rivers, and particularly the port LOUISIANA GKANTED TO CROZAT. 95 and haven of Isle Dauphin, heretofore called Massacre ; the river St. Louis, heretofore called Mississippi, from the edge of the sea as far as- the Illinois,* together with the river St. Philip, heretofore called Mis- souris, and St. Jerome, heretofore called the Ouabache (the Wabash), with all the countries, territories, lakes within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that part of the river St. Louis. Our pleasure is, that all the aforesaid lands, countries, streams, rivers and islands, be and remain comprised under the name of the Goveenment OF Louisiana, which shall be dependent upon the general government of New France, to which it is subordinate." Crozat was permitted to search and open mines, and to pay the king one-fifth part of all the gold and silver developed. Work in de- veloping the mines was to be begun in three years, under penalty of forfeiture. Crozat was required to send at least two vessels annually from France to sustain the colonies already established, and for the maintenance of trade. The next year, 1713, there were, within the limits of Crozat's vast grant, not more than four hundred persons of European descent. Crozat himself did little to increase the colony, the time of his subordinates being spent in roaming over the country in search of the precious metals. He became wearied at the end of three years spent in profitless adventures, and, in 171 Y, surrendered his grant back to the crown. In August of the same year the French king turned Louis- iana over to the " Western Company," or the " Mississippi Company," subsequently called "The Company of the Indies," at whose head stood the famous Scotch banker, John Law. The rights ceded to Law's company were as broad as the grant to Crozat. Law was an infla- tionist, believing that wealth could be created without limit by the mere issuing of paper money, and his wild schemes of finance were the most ruinous that ever deluded and bankrupted a confiding people. Louisiana, with its real and undeveloped wealth a hundred times mag- * The expression, " as far as the Illinois," did not refer to the river of that name, but to the country generally, on both sides of the Mississippi, above the mouth of the Ohio, which, under both the French and Spanish governments was denominated "the country of the Illinois," and this designation appeared in all their records and official letters. For example, letters, deeds, and other official documents bore date, respect- ively, at Kaskaskia, of the Illinois; St. Louis, of the Illinois; St. Charles, of the Illi- nois; not to identify the village where such instruments were executed merely, but to denote the country in which these villages were situated. Therefore, the monopoly of Crozat, by the terms of his patent, extended to the utmost limit of Louisiana, north- ward, which, by the treaty of Utrecht in 1713, was fixed at the 49th° of latitude; vide Stoddard's " Sketches of Louisiana," Brackenridge's "Views of Louisiana." From the year 1700 until some time subsequent to the conquest of the country by the British, in 1763, a letter or document executed anywhere within the present limits of the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, or Missouri, would have borne the superscription oi "Les Illinoix," or "the Illinois." M HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. nilied, became the basis of a fictitious value, on which an enormous volume of stock, cdnvertible into paper money, was issued. The stock rose in the market like a balloon, and chamber-maids, alike with wealthy ladies, barbers and bankers,— indeed, the whole French peo- ple, — gazing at the ascending phenomenon, grew mad with the desire for speedy wealth. The French debt was paid off ; the depleted treasury filled ; poor men and women were made rich in a few days by the con- stantly advancing value of the stocks of the " Company of the West." Confidence in the ultimate wealth of Louisiana was all that was re- quired, and this was given to a degree that would not now be credited as true, were not the facts beyond dispute. After awhile the balloon exploded; people began to doubt; they realized that mere confidence was not solid value; stocks declined; they awoke to a sorrowful contemplation of their delusion and ruin. Law, from the summit of his glory as a financier, fell into ignominy, and to escape bodily harm fled the country ; and Louisiana, from be- ing the source of untold wealth, sunk into utter ruin and contempt. It should be said to the credit of " the company " that they made some efforts toward the cultivation of the soil. The. growth of tobacco, sugar, rice and indigo was encouraged. Negroes were imported to till the soil. New Orleans was laid out in 1718, and the seat of govern- ment of lower Louisiana subsequently established there. A settlement was made about Natchez. A large number of German emigrants were located on the Mississippi, from whom a portion of the Mississippi has ever since been known as the " German coast." The French settle- ments at Kaskaskia and Cahokia, begun, as appears from most authen- tic accounts, about the year 1700, — certainly not later, — were largely increased by emigration from Canada and France. In the year 1718 the " Company of the West " erected a fortification near Kaskaskia, and named it Fort Chartes, having a charter from the crown so to do. It is situated in the northwest corner of Randolph county, Illinois, on the American bottom. It was garrisoned with a small number of soldiers, and was made the seat of government of " the Illinois." Under the mild government of the " Company," the Illinois marked a steady prosperity, and Fort Chartes became the center of business, fashion and gaiety of all " the Illinois country." In 1756 the fort was reconstruct- ed, this time with solid stone. Its shape was an irregular quadrangle, the exterior sides of the polygon being four hundred and ninety feet, and the walls were two feet two inches thick, pierced with port-holes for cannon. The walls of the fort were eighteen feet high, and con- tained within, guard houses, government house, barracks, powder house, bake house, prison and store room. A very minute description FOKT CHAKTES. 95 is given of the whole structure within and without in the minutes of its surrender, October 10, 1765, by Louis St. Ange de Belrive, captain of infantry and commandant, and Joseph Le Febvre, the king's store- keeper and acting commissary of the fort, to Mr. Sterling, deputed by Mr. De Gage (Gage), governor of New York and commander of His Majesty's troops in America, to receive possession of the fort and coun- try from the French, according to the seventeenth article of the treaty of peace, concluded on the 10th of February, 1763, between the kings of France and Great Britain.* Fort Chartes was the strongest and most elaborately constructed of any of the French works of defense in America. Here the intendants and several commandants in charge^ whose will was law, governed " the Illinois," administered justice to its inhabitants, and settled up estates of deceased persons, for nearly half a century. From this place the English commandants governed " the Illinois," some of them with great injustice and severity, from the time of its surrender, in 1765, to 1772, when a great flood inun- dated the American Bottom, and the Mississippi cut a new channel So near the fort that the wall and two bastions on the west side were un- dermined and fell into the river. The British garrison then abandoned- it, and their headquarters were afterward at Kaskaskia. Dr. Beck, while collecting material for his "Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri," in 1820, visited the ruins of old Fort Chartes. At that time enough remained to show the size and strength of this remarkable fortification. Trees over two feet in diameter were growing within its walls. The ruin is in a dense forest, hidden in a tangle of under- growth, furnishing a sad memento of the efibrts and blasted hopes of La Belle France to colonize "Zes Ulinoix." * The articles of surrender are given at length in the Paris Documents, vol. 10, pp. 1161 to 1166. CHAPTER XII. SURRENDER OF LOUISIANA BY THE INDIES COMPANY-EARLY ROUTES. In 1731 the company of the Indies surrendered to France, Louisiana, with its forts, colonies and plantations, and from this period forward to the time of the conquest by Great Britain and the Anglo-American colonies, Louisiana was governed through officers appointed by the crown We have shown how, when and where colonies were permanently established by the French in Canada, about Kaskaskia, and in Lower Louisiana. It is not within the scope of our inquiries to follow these settlements of the French in their subsequent development, but rather now to show how the establishments of the French along the lakes and near the gulf communicated with each other, and the routes of travel by which they were connected. The convenient way between Quebec and the several villages in the vicinity of Kaskaskia was around the lakes and down the Illinois River, either by way of the St. Joseph Eiver and the Kankakee port- age or through Chicago Creek and the Des Plaines. The long winters and severe climate on the St. Lawrence made it desirable for many people to abandon Canada for . the more genial latitudes of southern Illinois, and the still warmer regions of Louisiana, where snows were unknown and flowers grew the year round. It only required the pro- tection of a fort or other military safeguards to induce the Canadians to change their homes from Canada to more favorable localities southward. The most feasible route between Canada and the Lower Mississippi settlements was by the Ohio Eiver. This communication, howev6r, was effectually barred against the French. The Iroquois Indians, from the time of Champlain, were allies, first of the Dutch and then of the English, and the implacable enemies of the French. The upper waters of the Ohio were within the acknowledged territory of the Iroquois, whose possessions extended westward of New York and Pennsylvania well toward the Scioto. The Ohio below Pittsburgh was, also, in the debatable ground of the Miamis northward, and Chickasaws south- ward. These nations were warring upon each other continually, and 96 THE MAUMEE AKD WABASH ROUTE. 97 the country for many -miles beyond either bank of the Ohio was infested with war parties of the contending tribes.* There were no Indian villages near the Ohio River at the period concerning which we now write. Subsequent to this the Shawnees and Delawares, previously subdued by the Iroquois, were permitted by the latter to establish their towns near the confluence of the Scioto, Mus- kingum and other streams. The valley of the Ohio was within the confines of the " dark and bloody ground." Were a voyager to see smoke ascending above the forest line he would know it was from the camp fire of an enemy, and to be a place of danger. It would indi- cate the presence of a hunting or war party. If they had been suc- cessful they would celebrate the event by the destruction of whoever would commit himself to their hands, and if unfortunate in the chase or on the war-path, disappointment would give a sharper edge to their cruelty, f The next and more reliable route was that afforded by the Maumee and "Wabash, laying within the territory of tribes friendly to the French. The importance of this route was noticed by La Salle, in his letter to Count Frontenac, in 1683, before quoted. La Salle says: "There is a river at the extremity of Lake Erie,:]: within ten leagues of the strait (Detroit Kiver), which will very much shorten the way to the Illinois, it being navigable for canoes to within two leagues of their river." § As early as 1699, Mons. De Iberville conducted a colony of Canadians from Quebec to Louisiana, by way of the Maumee and "Wa- bash. " These were followed by other families, under the leadership of M. Du Tessenet. Emigrants came by land, first ascending the St. Lawrence to Lake Erie, then ascending a river emptying into that lake to the portage oi Des Miami? ; their effects being thence transported to the river Miamis, where pirogues, constructed out of a single tree, and large enough to contain thirty persons, were built, with which the voyage down the Mississippi was prosecuted." || -This memoir corre- sponds remarkably well with the claim of Little Turtle, in his speech to Gen. "Wayne, concerning the antiquity of the title, in his tribe, to the portage of the "Wabash at Fort "Wayne. It also illustrates the fact that among the first French settlers in lower Louisiana were * A Miami chief said that his nation had no tradition of " a time when they were not at war with the Chickasaws." t General William H. Harrison's Address before the Historical Society of Cin- cinnati. t The Maumee. {Meaning the Wabash. Extract taken from a memoir, showing that the first establishments in Louisiana were at Mobile, etc., the original manuscript being among the archives in the depart- ment " De la Marine et Des Colonies," in Paris, France. 7 98 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. those who found their way thither through the " glorious gate,'' be- longing to the Miamis, connecting the Maumee and Wabash. Originally, the Maumee was known to the French as the " Miami," " Oumiami," or the " Eiver of the Miamis," from the fact that bands of this tribe of Indians had villages upon its banks. It was also called " Ottawa," or " Tawwa," which is a contraction of the word Ottawa, as families of this tribe "resided on this river from time immemorial." The Shawnee Indian name is " Ottawa-sepe," that is " Ottawa Eiver." By the Hurons, or "Wyandots, it was called " Cagh-a-ren-du-te," the " Eiver of the Standing Eock." * Lewis Evans, whose map was pub- lished in 1755, and which is, perhaps, the first English map issued of the territory lying north and west of the Ohio Eiver, lays down the Miami as " Mine-a-mi," a way the Pennsylvania Indian traders had of pronouncing the word Miami. In 1703, Mons. Cadillac, the French commandant at Detroit, in his application for a grant of land six leagues in breadth on either side of the Maumee, upon which he pro- posed to propagate silk-worms, refers to the river as " Grand Eiver " f As early as 1718 it is mentioned as the " Miamis Eiver,":]: and- it bore this name more generally than that of any other from 1718 to a pe- riod subsequent to the War of 1812. Capt, Eobert M'Afee, who was in the various campaigns up and down the Maumee dunng the War of 1812, and whose history of this war, published at Lexington, Ky., in 1816, gives the most authentic account of the military movements in this quarter, makes frequent mention of the river by the name of " Miami," occasionally designating it as the " Miami of the Lake." Gen. Joseph Harmar, in his report of the military expedition con- ducted by him to Fort Wayne, in October, 1790, calls the Miami the "Omee." He says: "As there are three Miamis in the northwestern territory, all bearing the name of Miami, I shall in the future, for dis- tinction's sake, when speaking of the Miami of the Lake, call it the ' Omee,' and its towns the Omee Towns. By this name they are best known on the frontier. It is only, however, one of the many corrup- tions or contractions universally used among the French- Americans in pronouncing Indian names. 'Au-Mi,' for instance, is the contraction for 'Au Miami.' " § The habit of the " Coureur de Bois " and others using the mongrel language of the border Canadians, as well, also, the custom prevailing * "Account of the Present State of Indian Tribes, etc., Inhabiting Ohio." By John Johnson, Indian Agent, June 17, 1819. Published in vol. 1 of Archseologia Amencana. t Sheldon s History of Michigan, p. 108. t Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 886 and 891. ._Q J *^^?;.Harinar'a official letter to the Secretary of War, under date of November 23. 1790, pubhshed m the American State Papers. OKIGIN OF THE NAME MAUMEE. 99 among this class of persons in giving nicknames to rivers and locali- ties, has involved other observers besides Gen. Harmar in the same perplexity. Thomas Hatchins, the American geographer, and Capt. Harry Gordon visited Kaskaskia and the adjacent territory subsequent to the conquest of the northwest territory from the French, and be- came hopelessly entangled in the contractions and epithets applied to the surrounding villages on both sides of the Mississippi. Kaskaskia was abbreviated to ^^Au-has" and St. Louis nicknamed " Pain Court " — Short Bread; Carondelet was called ^'■Vide Pouche" — Empty Pocket; Ste. Genevieve was called "Missier" — Misery. The Kas- kaskia, after being shortened to Au-kaus, pronounced "Okau," has been further corrupted to Okaw, and at this day we have the singu- lar contradiction of the ancient Kaskaskia being called Kaskaskia near its mouth and " Okaw " at its source. The Miamis, or bands of their tribe, had villages in order of time ; first on the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, then upon the Maumee ; after this, 1750, they, with factions of other tribes who had become disaflfiected toward the French, established a mixed village upon the stream now known as the Great Miami, which empties into the Ohio, and in this way the name of Miami has been transferred, successively, from the St. Jo- seph to the Miami, and from the latter to the present Miami, with which it has become permanently identified,* The Miamis were, also, called the " Mau-mees," — this manner of spelling growing out of one of the several methods of pronouncing the word Miami — and it is doubtless from this source that the name of Maumee is derived.f In this connection we may note the fact that the St. Marys and the Au-glaize were named by the Shawnee Indians, as follows : The first was called by this tribe, who had several villages upon its banks, the "" Go-kothe-ke-sepe," Kettle River; and the Aiiglaize "Cow -then -e- te-sepe," or Fallen Timber River. These aboriginal names are given by Mr. John Johnson, in his published account of the Indian tribes before referred to.^: We will now give a derivation of the name of the Wabash, which has been the result of an examination of a number of authorities. Early French writers have spelled the word in various ways, each en- deavoring, with more or less success, to represent the name as the sev- *The aboriginal name of the Great Miami was "Assin-erient," or Rocky River, from the word Assin, or Ussin, the Algonquin appellation for stone or stony. Lewis Evan's map of 1755. tin an official letter of Gen. Harrison to the Secretary of War, dated March 22, 1814, the name " Miamis " and "Maumees " are given as synonymous terms, referring to the same tribe. i Mr. Johnson had charge of the Indian affairs in Ohio for many years, and was especially acquainted with the Shawnees and their language. 100 HISTORIC KOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. eral Algonquin tribes pronounced it. First, we have Father Marquette's orthography, " Oua-bous-kigou ; " and by later French authorities it i& spelled " Abache," " Ouabache," " Oubashe," " Oubache," " Oubash," "Oubask," "Oubache," "Wabascou," ""Wabache," and "Waubache." It should be borne in mind that the French alphabet does not contain the letter W, and that the diphthong " ou " with the French has nearly the same sound as the letter W of the English alphabet. The Jesuits sometimes used a character much like the figure 8, which is a Greek contraction formulated by them, to represent a peculiar guttural sound among the Indians, and which we often, though imperfectly, represent by the letter W, or Wau.* That Wabash is an Indian name, and was early applied to the stream that now bears this name, is clearly established by Father Gravier. This missionary descended the Mississippi in the year 1700, and speak- ing of the Ohio and its tributaries, says : " Three branches are assigned to it, one that comes from the northwest (the "Wabash), passing behind the country of the Oumiamis, called the St. Joseph,f which the Indians properly call the Ouabaehei; the second comes from the Iroquois (whose country included the head-waters of the Ohio), and is called the Ohio ; and the third, which comes from the Chaou- anona:]: (Shawnees). And all of them uniting to empty into the Mis- sissippi, it is commonly called Ouabachi." § In the variety of manner in which Wabash is spelled in the exam- ples given above, we clearly trace the Waw-Msh-kaw, of the Ojibe- ways; the WaMsca (pronounced Wa-bis-sa) of the modern Algon- quin ; Wau-bisk of the Menominees, and Wa-bi of the ancient Algon- quins, words which with all these kindred tongues mean WMte.\\ Therefore the aboriginal of Wabash (Sepe) should be rendered White River. This theory is supported by Lewis Evans, who for many years was a trader among the Indians, inhabiting the country drained by the Wabash and its tributary waters. The extensive knowledge which he acquired in his travels westward of the Alleghanies resulted * Shea's Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi, p. 41, foot-note. For example, we find in the Journal of Marquette, 8ab8kig8, for Wabash. The same man- ner of spelling is also observed in names, as written by other missionajies, where they design to represent the sound of the French " ou," or the English W. t.Probably a mistake of the copyist, and which should be the St. Jerome, a name given by the French to the "Wabash, as we have seen in the extracts taken from Crozat's grant. Dr. Shea has pointed out numerous mistakes made by the copyist of the man- uscripts from which the " Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi " are composed. t The Tennessee. § Father Gravier's Journal in Dr. Shea's Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi, pp. 130, 121. 1 The several aboriginal names for white, which we have given above, are taken from the vocabularies of Mackenzie, Dr. Ewin James and Albert Grallatin, which are regarded as standard authorities. OEIGIK OF THE NAME WABASH. 101 in his publishing, in 1755, a map, accompanied with an extended de- scription of the territory it embraced. In describing the "Wabash, Mr. Evans calls it by the name the Iroquois Indians had given it, viz : the " Quia-agh-tena," and says " it is called by the French Ouabach, though that is truly the name of its southeastern branch." "Why the "White Bivgr, of Indiana, which is the principal southeastern branch of the "Wabash, should have been invested with the English meaning of the word, and the aboriginal name should have been retained by the river to which it has always properly belonged, is easily explained, when we consider the ignorance and carelessness of many of the early travelers, whose writings, coming down to us, have tended to confuse rather than laid the investigations of the modern historian. The Ohio River helow the confluence of the "Wabash is designated as the "Wabash by a majority -of the early French writers, and so laid down on many of the contem- poraneous maps. This was, probably, due to the fact that the "Wabash was known and used before the Ohio had been explored to its mouth. So fixed has become th^ habit of calling the united waters of these two streams "Wabash, from their union continuously to their discharge into the Mississippi, that the custom prevailed long after a better knowledge -of the geography of the country suggested the propriety of its aban- donment. Even after the French of Canada accepted the change, and treated the Ohio as the main river and the "Wabash as the tributary, the French of Louisiana adhered to the old name. "We quote from M. Le Page Du Pratz' History of Louisiana : * " Let us now repass the Mississippi in order to resume a description of the lands to the east, which we quit at the river 'Woihash. This river is distant from the sea four hundred and sixty leagues ; it is reckoned to have four hundred leagues in length from its source to its conflu- ence with the Mississippi. It is called "Wabash, though, according to the usual method, it ought to be called the Ohio, or Beautiful Eiver,f seeing the Ohio was known under that name before its confluence was known; and as the Ohio takes its rise at a greater distance off than the three others which mix together before they empty them- selves into the Mississippi, this should make the others lose their *The author was for sixteen years a planter of Louisiana, having gone thither from Prance soon after the Company of the West or Indes restored the country to the crown. He was a gentleman of superior attainments, and soon acquired a thorough knowledge of the French possessions m America. He returned to France, and in 1758 published his "History of Louisiana," with maps, which, in 1763, was translated into English. These volumes are largely devoted to the experience of the author in the cultivation of rice, indigo, sugar and other products congenial to the climate and soil of Louisiana, and to quite an extended topographical description of the whole Mississippi Valley. , tThe Iroquois' name for the Ohio was " 0-io" meaning beautiful, and the French retained the signification in the name of "La Belle Rioiere," by which the Ohio was bnown to them. 102 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. names; but custom has prevailed in this respect. The first known to us which falls into the Ohio is that of the Miamis (Wabash), which takes its rise toward Lake Erie. It is by this river of the Miamis that the Canadians come to Louisiana. For this purpose they embark on the Kiver St. Lawrence, go up this river, pass the cataracts quite to the bottom of Lake Erie, where they find a small river, on which they also go up to a place called the carriage of the Miamis, because that people come and take their effects and carry them on their backs for two leagues from thence to the banks of the river of their name which ■ I just said empties itself into the Ohio. From thence the Canadians go down that river, enter the "Wabash, and at last the Mississippi, which brings them to New Orleans, the capital of Louisiana. They reckon eighteen hundred leagues from the capital of Canada to that of Louisiana, on account of the great turns and windings they are obliged to take. The river of the Miamis is thus the first to the north which falls into the Ohio, then that of the Chaouanons to the south, and lastly, that of the Cherokee, all which together empty themselves into the Mississippi. This is what we (in Louisiana) call the Wabash, and what in Canada and New England is called the Ohio." * A failure to recognize the fact that the Ohio below the mouth of the Wabash was, for a period of over half a century, known to the French as the Wabash, has led not a few later writers to erroneously locate ancient French forts and missionary stations upon the banks of the Wkbash, which were in reality situated many miles below, on the Ohio.f * On the map prefixed to Du Pratz' history, the Ohio from the Mississippi up to the confluence of the Wabash is called the " Wabash "; above this the Ohio is called Ohio, and the Wabash is called "The River of the Miamis," with villages of that tribe noted near its source. The Maumee is called the "River of the Carrying Place." The Upper Mississippi, the Illinois River and the lakes are also laid down, and, alto- gether, the map is quite accurate. t A noticeable instance of such a mistake will be found relative to the city of Vin- cennes. On the authority of LaHarpe, and the later histoirian Charlevoix, the French in the year 1700, established a trading post near the mouth of the Ohio, on the site of the more modern Fort Massac, in Massac county, 111., for the purpose of securing buffalo hides. The neighboring Mascotins, as was customary with the Indians, soon gathered about for the purpose of barter. Their numbers, as well as the expressed wish of the French traders, induced Father Merment to visit the place and engage in mission work. At the end of four or five years, in 1705, the establishment was broken up on account of a quarrel of the Indians among themselves, and which so threatened the lives of the Frenchmen that the latter fled, leaving behind their effects and 13,000 buffalo hides which they had collected. Some years later Father Marest, writing from KaskasMa, in his letter before referred to, relates the failure of Father Merment to convert the Indians at this " post on the Wabash " ; and on the authority of this letter alone, and although Father Marest only followed the prevailing style in calling the lower Ohio the AVabash, some writers, the late Judge John Law bemg the first, have contended that this post was on the Wabash and at Vincennes. Charlevoix says " it was at the mouth of the Wabash which discharges itself into the Mississippi." La Harpe, and also Le Suere, whose personal knowledge of the post was contemporaneous with its existence, definitely fix its position near the mouth of the Ohio. The latter fives the date of its beginning, and the former narrates an account of its trade and nal abandonment. In this way an antiquity has been claimed for Vincennes to which. it is not historically entitled. EARLY ACCOUNT OF THE MAUMEE. 103 "We now give a description of the Maumee and "Wabash, the location of the several Indian villages, and the manners of their inhabitants, taken from a memoir prepared in 1718 by a French oflficer in Canada, and sent to the minister at Paris.* " I return to the Miamis River. Its entrance from Lake Erie is very wide, and its banks on both sides, for a distance of ten leagues up, are nothing but continued swamps, abounding at all times, espe- cially in the spring, with game without end, swans, geese, ducks, cranes, etc., which drive sleep away by the noise of their cries. This river is sixty leagues in length, very embarrassing in summer in consequence of the lowness of the water. Thirty leagues up the river is a place called La 6laise,\ where buifalo are always to be found ; they eat the clay and wallow in it. The Miamis are sixty leagues from Lake Erie, and number four hundred, all well formed men, and well tattooed ;:|: the women are numerous. They are hard working, and raise a species of maize unlike that of our Indians at Detroit. It is white, of the same size as the other, the skin much finer, and the meal much whiter. This nation is clad in deer skin, and when a woman goes with another man her husband cuts off her nose and does not see her any more. They have plays and dances, wherefore they have more occupation. The women are well clothed ; but the men use scarcely any covering, and are tattooed all over the body. "From this Miami village there is a portage of three leagues to a little and very narrow stream,§ that falls, after a course of twenty leagues, into the Ohio or B.eautiful Eiver, which discharges into the Ouabache, a fine river that falls into the Mississippi forty leagues from the Cascachias. Into the Ouabache falls also the Casquinampo, || which communicates with Carolina ; but this is far off, and is always up stream. " The Eiver Ouabache is the one on which the Ouyatanons Tf are settled. " They consist of five villages, which are contiguous the one to the other. One is called Oujatanon, the other Peanguichias,** and another *The document is quite lengthy, covering all the principal places and Indian tribes east of the Mississippi, and showing the compiler possessed a very thorough acquaint- ance with the whole subject. It is given entire in the Paris Documents, vol. 9; that relating to the Maumee and Wabash on pages 886 to 891. t Defiance, Ohio. % These villages were near the confluence of the St. Mary's and St. Joseph, and this is the first account we have of the present site of Fort Wayne. 8 Little River, that empties into the Wabash just below Huntington. I The Tennessee River. if The "Weas," whose principal villages were near the mouth of Eel River, near Logansport, and on the Wea prairie, between Attica and La Fayette. ** The ancient Piankashaw town was on the Vermilion of the Wabash, and the Miami name of the Vermilion was Piankashaw. 104 HISTORIC NOTES OX THE NORTHWEST. Petitseotias, and a fourth Le Gros. The name of the last I do not recollect, but they are all Oujatanous, having the same language as the Miamis, whose brothers they are, and properly all Miamis, having the same customs and dress.* The men are very numerous; ftilly a thousand or twelve hundred. " They have a custom different from all other nations, which is to keep their fort extremely clean, not allowing a blade of grass to remain within it. The whole of the fort is sanded like the Tuilleries. The village is situated on a high hill, and they have over two leagues of improvement where they raise their Indian corn, pumpkins and melons. From the summit of this elevation nothing is visible to the eye but prairies full of buffaloes. Their play and dancing are inces- sant.f "All of these tribes use a vast quantity of vermilion. The women wear clothing, the men very little. The Eiver Ohio, or Beautiful river, is the route which the Iroquois take. It would be of importance that they should not have such intercourse, as it is very dangerous. Atten- tion has been called to this matter long since, but no notice has been taken of it." *The "Le Gros," that is, The Great (village), was probably "Chip-pe-co-ke," or the town of "Brash-wood," the name of the old village at Vincennes, which was the principal city of the Piankashaws. t The village here described is Ouatanon, which was situated a few miles below sf f ^y.^'**' near which, though on the opposite or north bank of the Wabash, the Stockade Fort of "Ouatanon" was established by the French. CHAPTER XIII. ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS— THE SEVERAL ILLINOIS TRIBES. The Indians who lived in and claimed the territory to which our attention is directed were the several tribes of the Illinois and Miami confederacies, — the Pottawatomies, the Kickapoos and scattered bands of Shawnees and Delawares. Their title to the soil had to be extin- guished by conquest or treatise of purchase before the country could be settled by a higher civilization ; for the habits of the two races, red and white, were so radically different that there could be no fusion, arid they could not, or rather did not, live either happily or at peace together. We proceed to treat of these several tribes, observing the order in which their names have been mentioned ; and we do so in this coh- nection for the reason that it will aid toward a more ready under- standing of the subjects which are to follow. The Illinois were a subdivision of the great Algonquin family. Their language and manners differed somewhat from other surround- ing tribes, and resembled most the Miamis, with whom they originally bore a very close affinity. Before Joliet and Marquette's voyage to the Mississippi, all of the Indians who came from the south to the mission at La Pointe, on Lake Superior, for the purposes of barter, were by the French called Illinois, for the reason that the jwst Indians who came to La Pointe from the south " called themselves lUinoisP * In the Jesuit Relations the name Illinois appears as " Illi-mouek," "Illinoues," " Ill-i-ne-wek," " Allin-i-wek " and " Lin-i-wek." By Father Marquette it is "Ilinois," and Hennepin has it the same as it is at the present day. The ois was pronounced like our wa/ij, so that ouai, ois, weTc and oueh were almost identical in pronunciation.f "Willinis" is Lewis Evans' orthography. Major Thomas Forsyth, who for many years was a trader and Indian agent in the territory, and subsequently the state, of Illinois, says the Confederation of Illinois * As we have given the name of Ottawas to all the savages of these countries, al- though of different nations, because the first who have appeared among the French have been Ottawas; so also it is with the name of the Illinois, very numerous, and dwelling toward the south, because the first who have come to the " point of the Holy Ghost for commerce called themselves Illinois." — Father Claude Dablon, in the Jesuit Relations for 1670, 1671. t Note by Dr. Shea in the article entitled " The Indian Tribes of Wisconsin," fur- nished by him for the Historical Society of Wisconsin, and published in Vol. Ill (A their collections, p. 128. 106 HISTORIC NOTES OK THE NORTHWEST. " called themselves Linneway" — which is almost identical with the Lin-i-wek of the Jesuits, having a regard for its proper pronuncia- tion, — " and that by others they were called Minneway, signifying men," and that their confederacy embraced the combined Illinois and Miami tribes ; " that all these different bands of the Minneway nation spoke the language of the present Miamis, and the whole considered them- selves as one and the same people, yet from their local situation, and having no standard to go by, their language became broken up into different dialects." * They were by the Iroquois called ^^ Chick-tagh-. ichsy Many theories have been advanced and much fine speculation in- dulged in concerning the origin and meaning of the word Illinois. We have seen that the Illinois first made themselves known to the French by that name, and we have never had a better signification of the name than that which the Illinois themselves gave to Fathers Mar- quette and Hennepin. The former, in his narrative journal, observes : " To say Illinois is, in their language, to say ' the men,' as if other Indians, compared to them, were mere beasts." f " The word Illinois signifies a man of full age in the vigor of his strength. This word Illi- nois comes, as it has already been observed, from Illini, which in the language of that nation signifies a perfect and accomplished man." \. Subsequently the name Illini, Linneway, "Willinis or Illinois, with more propriety became limited to a confederacy, at first composed of four subdivisions, known as the Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Tamaroas and Peorias. Not many years before the discovery of the Mississippi by the French, a foreign tribe, the Metchigamis, nearly destroyed by wars with the Sacs to the north and the Chickasaws to the south, to save themselves from annihilation appealed to the Kaskaskias for admission into their confederacy.! The request was granted, and the Metchiga- mis left their homes on the Osage river and established their villages on the St. Francis, within the limits of the present State of Missouri and below the mouth of the Kaskaskia. The subdivision of the Illinois proper into cantons, as the French writers denominate the families or villages of a nation, like that of other tribes was never very distinct. There were no villages exclu- sively for a separate branch of the tribe. Owing to intermarriage, adoption and other processes familiar to modern civilization, the sub- * ! W^ of Black-Hawk, by Benjamin Drake, seventh edition, pp. 16 and 17 t Shea s Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi Valley, p 25 tffennepm's Discovery of America, pp. 35 and 119, London edition, 1698. «1 J V rl??"'^- ' . Nai-ratije Journal '_^tol. II, p. 228. Also note of B. F. French, p. 61 of Vol. Ill, First Series of Histoncal Collections of Louisiana. LOCATIOK OF VILLAGES. 107 tribal distinctions were not well preserved ; and when Charlevoix, that acute observer, in 1721 visited these several Illinois villages near Kas- kaskia, their inhabitants were so mixed together and confounded that it was almost impossible to distinguish the different branches of the tribe from each other.* The first accounts we have of the Illinois are given by the Jesuit missionaries. In the " Relations " for the year 1655 we find that the Lin-i-ouek are neighbors of the Winnebagoes ; again in the "Rela- tions" for the next year, "that the Illinois nation dwell more than sixty leagues from here, f and beyond a great river, :]: which as near as can be conjectured flows into the sea toward Yirginia. These people are warlike. They use the bow, rarely the gun, and never the canoe. When Joliet and Marquette were descending the Mississippi, they found villages of the Illinois on the Des Moines river, and on their return they passed through larger villages of the same nation situated on the Illinois river, near Peoria and higher up the stream. While the Illinois were nomads, though not to the extent of many other tribes, they had villages of a somewhat permanent character, and when they moved after game they went in a body. It would seem from the most authentic accounts that their favorite abiding places were on the Illinois river, from the Des Plaines down to its confluence with the Mississippi, and on the Mississippi from the Kaskaskia to the mouth of the Ohio. This beautiful region abounded in game ; its riv- ers were well stocked with flsh, and were frequented by myriads of wild fowls. The climate was mild. The soil was fertile. By the mere turning of the sod, the lands in the rich river bottoms yielded bountiful crops of Indian corn, melons and squashes. In disposition and morals the Illinois were not to be very highly commended. Father Charlevoix, speaking of them as they were in 1700, says : " Missionaries have for some years directed quite a flour- ishing church among the Illinois, and they have ever since continued to instruct that nation, in whom Christianity had already produced a change such as she alone can produce in morals and disposition. Before the arrival of the missionaries, there were perhaps no Indians in any part of Canada with fewer good qualities and more vices. They have * " These tribes are at present very much confounded, and are become very inconsid- erable. There remains only a very small number of Kaskaskias, and the two villages of that name are almost entirely composed of Tamaroas and Metchigamis, a foreign nation adopted by the Kaskaskias, and originally settled on a small river you meet with going down the Mississippi. "—Charlevoix' " Narrative Journal," Letter XXVIII, dated Kaskaskia, October 20, 1731; p. 238, Vol. II. t The letter is sent from the Mission of the Holy Ghost, at La Pointe. X The Mississippi. 108 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. always been mild and docile enough, but they were cowardly, treach- erous, fickle, deceitful, thievish, brutal, destitute of faith or honor, selfish, addicted to gluttony and the most monstrous lusts, almost un- known to the Canada tribes, who accordingly despised them heartily, but the Illinois were riot a whit less haughty or self-complacent on that account. " Such allies could bring no great honor or assistance to the French ; yet we never had any more faithful, and, if we except the Abenaqui tribes, they are the only tribe who never sought peace with their ene- mies to our prejudice. They did, indeed, see the necessity of our aid to defend themselves against several nations who seemed to have sworn their ruin, and especially against the Iroquois and Foxes, who^ by con- stant harrassing, have somewhat trained them to war, the former taking home from' their expeditions the vices of that corrupt nation." * Father Charlevoix' comments upon the Illinois confirm the state- ments of Hennepin, who says : " They are lazy vagabonds, timorous, pettish thieves, and so fond of their liberty that they have no great respect for their chiefs."t Their cabins were constructed of mats, made out of flags, spread over a frame of poles driven into the ground in a circular form and drawn together at the top. " Their villages," says Father Hennepin,:]: " are open, not enclosed with palisades because they had no courage to defend them ; they would flee as they heard their enemies approaching." Before their acquaint- ance with the French they had no knowledge of iron and fire-arms. Their two principal weapons were the bow and arrow and the club. Their arrows were pointed with stone, and their tomahawks were made out of stag's horns, cut in the shape of a cutlass and terminating in a large ball. In the use of the bow and arrow, all writers agree, that the Illinois excelled all neighboring tribes. For protection against the missies of an enemy they used bucklers composed of bufialo hides stretched over a wooden frame. In form they were tall and lithe. They were noted for their swift- ness of foot. They wore moccasins prepared from buffalo hides ; and, in summer, this generally completed their dress. Sometimes they wore a small covering, extending from the waist to the knees. The rest of the body was entirely nude. The women, beside cultivating the soil, did all of the household drudgery, carried the game and made the clothes. The garments * Charlevoix's " History of New France," vol. 5, page 130. t Hennepin, page 132, London edition, 1698. i Page 182. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 109 were prepared from buffalo hides, and from the soft wool that grew upon these animals. Both the wool and hides were dyed with bril- liant colors, black, yellow or vermilion. In this kind of work the Illinois women were greatly in advance of other tribes. Articles of dress were sewed together with thread made from the nerves and ten- dons of deer, prepared by exposure to the sun twice in every twenty- four hours. After which the nerves and tendons were beaten so that their fibers would separate into a fine white thread. The clothing of the women was something like the loose wrappers worn by ladies of the present day. Beneath the wrapper were petticoats, for warmth in winter. With a fondness for finery that characterizes the feminine sex the world over, the Illinois women wore head-dresses, contrived more for ornament than for use. The feet were covered with moccasins, and leggings decorated with quills of the porcupine stained in colors of brilliant contrasts. Ornaments, fashioned out of clam shells and other hard substances, were worn about the neck, wrists and ankles ; these, with the face, hands and neck daubed with pigments, completed the toilet of the highly fashionable Illinois belle. Their food consisted of the scanty- products of their fields, and prin- cipally of game and fish, of which, as previously stated, there was in their country a great abundance. Father Allouez, who visited them in 1673, stated that they had fourteen varieties of herbs and forty-two varieties of fruits which they use for food. Their plates and other dishes were made of wood, and their spoons were constructed out of buffalo bones. The dishes for boiling food were earthen, sometimes glased.*" From all accounts, it seems that the Illinois claimed an extensive tract of country, bounded on the east by the ridge that divides the waters flowing into the Illinois from the streams that drain into the Wabash above the head waters of Saline creek, and as high up the lUir nois as the Des Plaines, extending westward of the Mississippi, and reaching northward to the debatable ground between the Illinois, Chippeways, Winnebagoes, Sacs and Foxes. Their favorite and most populous cities were on the Illinois river, near Starved Rock, and *The account we have given of the manners, habits and customs of the Illinois is compiled from the following authorities : La Hontan, Charlevoix, Hennepin, Tonti, Marquette, Joutel, the missionaries Marest, Rasles and Allouez. Besides, the historic letter of Marest, found in Kip's Jesuit Missions, is another from this distinguished priest, written from EaskasMa to M. Bienville, and inct^orated in Penicaut's Annals of Louisiana, a translation of which is contained in the Biistorical Collections of Louisi- ana and Florida, by B. F. French. In this letter of Father Marest, dated in 1711, is a very fine description of the customs of the Illinois Indians, and their prosperous condi- tion at Easkaskia and adjacent villages. 110 HISTORIC ISrOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. below as far as Peoria. The missionary station founded by Father Marquette was, in all probability, near the latter place. Prior to the year 1700, Father Marest had charge of a mission at the neck, strait or narrmm of Peoria lake. In Peoria lake, above Peoria, is a contracted channel, and this is evidently referred to by Father Gravier in his " Narrative Journal " where he states : " I ar- rived too late at the Illinois du Detroit, of whom Father Marest has charge, to prevent the transmigration of the village of the Kaskaskias, which was too precipitately made on vague news of the establishment on the Mississippi. I do not believe that the Kaskaskias would have thus separated from the Peouaroua and other Illinois du Detroit. At all events, I came soon enough to unite minds a little, and to prevent the insult which the Peouaroua and the Mouin-gouena were bent on offering to the Kaskaskias and French as they embarked. I spoke to all the chiefs in full council, and as they continued to preserve some respect and good will for me, we separated very peaceably. But I argue no good from this separation, which I have always hindered, seeing too clearly the evil results. God grant that the road from Chikagoua to this strait " (au Detroit) " be not closed, and the whole Illinois mission suffer greatly. I avow to you, Reverend Father, that it rends my heart to see my old flock thus divided and dispersed, and I shall never see it, after leaving it, without having some new cause of affliction. The Peouaroua, whom I left without a missionary (since Father Marest has followed the Kaskaskias), have promised me that they would preserve the church, and that they would await my return from the Mississippi, where I told them I went only to assure myself of the truth of all that was said about it." * The area of the original country of the Illinois was reduced by continuous wars with their neighbors. The Sioux forced them east- ward ; the Sac and Fox, and other enemies, encroached upon them from the north, while war parties of the foreign Iroquois, from the east, rapidly decimated their numbers. These unhappy influences were doing * Father Gravier's Journal in Shea's Early Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi, pp. 116 and 117. Dr. Shea, in a foot note, p. 116, says: "This designation {Illinois Du Detroit) does not appear elsewhere, and I cannot discover what strait is referred to. It evidently includes the Peorias." Dr. Shea's conjecture is very nearly correct. The narrows in Peoria lake retained the appellation of Little Detroit, a name handed down from the French-Canadians. Dr. Lewis Beck, in his " Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri," p. 124, speaks of "Little Detroit, an Indian village situated on the east bank of lake Peoria, six miles above Ft. Clark." On the map prefixed to the Gazetteer prepared in 1820 the contraction of the lake is shown and designated as " Little Detroit." We have seen from extracts from Father Marquette's Journal, quoted on a preced- ing page, that it was the Kaskaskias at whose village this distinguished missiona.ry Eromised to return and to establish a mission, and that with the ebbing out of his life e fulfilled his engagement. From Father Gravier's Journal, just quoted, it is appar- ATTACK OF THE IROQUOIS. Ill their fatal work, and the Illinois confederacy was in a stage of decline when they first came in contact with the French. Their afflictions made them accessible to the voice of the missionary, and in their weakness they hailed with delight the coming of the Frenchman with his prom- ises of protection, which were assured by guns and powder. The mis- fortunes of the Illinois drew them so kindly to the priests, the coureurs des Bois and soldiers, that the friendship between the two races never abated ; and when in the order of events the sons of France had de- parted from the Illinois, their love for the departed Gaul was inculcated into the minds of their children. The erection of Fort St. Louis on the Illinois, St. Joseph on the stream of that name, and the establishment at Detroit, for a while stayed the calamity that was to befall the Illinois. Frequent allusion has been made to the part the Iroquois took in the destruction of this powerful confederacy. For the gratification of the reader we give a condensed account of some of these Iroquois campaigns in the Illinois country. The extracts we take are irom a memoir on the western Indians, by M. Du Chesneau,* dated at Quebec, September 13, 1681 : " To convey a correct idea of the present state of all those Indian na- tions it is necessary to explain the cause of the cruel war waged by the Iroquois for these three years past against the Illinois. The former were great warriors, cannot remain idle, and pretend to subject all other nations to themselves, and never want a pretext for commencing hos- tilities. The following was their assumed excuse for the present war : Going, about twenty years ago, to attack the Outagamis (FoxeS), they met the Illinois and killed a considerable number of them. This continued during the succeeding years, and finally, having destroyed a great many, they forced them to abandon their country and seek refuge in Y&cy distant parts. The Iroquois having got quit of the Illinois, took no more trouble with them, and went to war against another nation called the Andostagues.f Pending this war the Illinois re- turned to their country, and the Iroquois complained that they had «nt that the mission had for some years been in successful operation at the combined village of the Kaskaskias, Peorias and Mouin-gouena, situated at the Du Detroit of the Illinois; and also that the Kaskaskias, hearing that the French were about to form es- tablishments on the lower Mississippi, in company with the French inhabitants of their ancient village, were in the act of going down the Mississippi at the time of Gravier's arrival, in September, 1700. All these facts taken together would seem to definitely locate the Mission of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary at the narrows, six mUes above the present city of Peoria, which is upon the site of old Fort Clark, and probably, from the topography of the locality, upon the east bMik of the strait. In conclusion, we may add that the Kaskaskias were induced to halt in their journey southward upon the nver, which has ever since borne their name ; and the mission, transferred from the old Kaskaskias, above Peoria, retained the name of " The Immaculate Conception," etc. * Paris Documents, vol. 9, pp. 161 to 166. t The Eries, or Cats, were entirely destroyed by the Iroquois. 112 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. killed forty of their people who were on their way to hunt beaver in the Illinois country. To obtain satisfaction, the Iroquois resolved to make war upon them. Their true motive, however, was to gratify the English at Manatte * and Orange,t of whom they are too near neigh- bors, and who, by means of presents, engaged the Iroquois in this ex- pedition, the object of which was to force the Illinois to bring their beaver to them, so that they may go and trade it afterward to the English ; also, to intimidate the other Indians, and constrain them to to do the same thing. '< The improper conduct of Sieur de la Salle, ^ governor of Fort Frontenae, has contributed considerably to cause the latter to adopt this proceeding ; for after he had obtained permission to discover the Great Eiver Mississippi, and had, as he alleged, the grant of the Illinois, he no longer observed any terms with the Iroquois. He ill- treated them, and avowed that he would convey arms and ammunition to the Illinois, and would die assisting them. "The Iroquois dispatched in the month of April of last year, 1680, an army, consisting of between five and six hundred men, who ap- proached an Illinois village where Sieur Tonty, one of Sieur de la Salle's men happened to be with some Frenchmen and two Recollect fathers, whom the Iroquois left unharmed. One of these, a most holy man, § has since been killed by the Indians. But they would listen to no terms of peace proposed to them by Sieur de Tonty, who was slightly wounded at the beginning of the attack ; the Illinois having fled a hundred leagues thence, were pursued by the Iroquois, who killed and captured as many as twelve hundred of them, including women and children, having lost only thirty men. " The victory achieved by the Iroquois rendered them so insolent that they have continued ever since that time to send out divers war parties. The success of these is not yet known, but it is not doubted that they have been successful, because those tribes are very warlike and the Illi- nois are but indifferently so. Indeed, there is no doubt, and it is the universal opinion, that if the Iroquois are allowed to proceed they will subdue the Illinois, and in a short time render themselves masters of all the Outawa tribes and divert the trade to the English, so that it is absolutely essential to make them our friends or to destroy them." * New York. t Albany, New York. t It must be remembered that La Salle was not exempt from the jealousy and envy which is inspired in souls of little men toward those engaged in great undertakings ; and we see this spirit manifested here. La Salle could not have done otherwise than supply fire-arms to the Illinois, who were his friends and the owners of the country, the trade of which he had opened up at great hardship and expense to himself. § Gabriel Ribourde. DEFEAT OF THE lEOQUOIS. 113 The Iroquois were not always successful in their western forays. Tradition records two instances in which they were sadly discomfited. The first was an encounter with the Sioux, on an island in the Missis- sippi, at the mouth of the Des Moines. The tradition of this engage- ment is preserved in the curious volumes of La Hontan, and is as fol- lows : " March 2nd, 1689, 1 arrived in the Mississippi. To save the lahor of rowing we left our boats to the current, and arrived on the tenth in the island of Rencontres, which took its name from the defeat of four hundred Iroquois accomplished there by three hundred Nadouessis (Sioux). The story of the encounter is briefly this: A party of four hundred Iroquois having a mind to surprise a certain people in the neighborhood of the Otentas (of whom more anon), marched to the country of the Illinois, where they built canoes and were furnished with provisions. After that they embarked upon the river Mississippi, and were discovered by another little fleet that was sailing down the other side of the same river. The Iroquois crossed over immediately to that island which is since called Axtx Rencontres. The Nadouessis, i. e., the other little fleet, being suspicious of some ill design, without knowing what people they were (for they had no knowledge of the Iroquois but by hear-say) — upon this suspicion, I say, they tugged hard to come up with them. The two armies posted themselves upon the. point of the island, where the two crosses are put down in the map,* and as soon as the Nadouessis came in sight, the Iroquois cried out in. the lUinese language : ' Who are ye f To which the Nadouessis- answered, ' Somehody '/ and putting the same question to the Iroquois,; received the same answer. Then the Iroquois put this question to- 'em: ^ Where are you going f^ ' To hunt buffalo,' answered the iTa- douessis ; ' but, pray,' says the Nadouessis, ' what is.your business ? ' ' To hunt men,' reply'd the Iroquois. "Tis well,' says the Nadouessis; ' we are men, and so you need go no farther.' Upon this challenge, the two parties disembarked, and the leader of the I^adouessis cut his canoes to pieces, and, after representing to his warriors that they be- hoved either to conquer or die, marched up to the Iroquois, who received them at first onset with a cloud of arrows. But the Nadou- essis having stood their first discharge, which killed eighty of them, fell in upon them with their clubs in their hands before the others could charge again, and so routed them entirely. This engagement lasted for two hours, and was so hot that two hundred and sixty Iro- quois fell upon the spot, and the rest were all taken prisoners. Some of the Iroquois, indeed, attempted to make their escape after the action * On La Hontan's map the place marked is designated by an island in the Missis- sippi, immediately at the mouth of the Des Moines. 8 114 HISTOKIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. was over ; but the victorious general sent ten or twelve of his men to pursue them in one of the canoes that he had taken, and accordingly they were all overtaken and drowned. The Nadouessis having ob- tained this victory, cut off the noses and ears of two of the cleverest prisoners, and supplying them with fusees, powder and ball, gave them the liberty of returning to their own country, in order to tell their countrymen that they ought not to employ women to hunt after men any longer."* The second tradition is that of a defeat of a war party of Iroquois upon the banks of the stream that now bears the name of " Iroquois Eiver." Father Charlevoix, in his Narrative Journal, referring to his passage down the Kankakee, in September, 1721, alludes to this defeat of the Iroquois in the, following language : " I was not a little sur- prised at seeing so little water in the The-a-ki-ki, notwithstanding it receives a good many pretty large rivers, one of which is more than a hundred and twenty feet in breadth at its mouth, and has been called the River of the Iroquois, because some of that nation were surprised on its banks by the Illinois who killed a great many of them. This check mortified them so much the more, as they held the Illinois in great contempt, who, indeed, for the most part are not able to stand before them." f The tradition has been given with fuller particulars to the author^ by Colonel Guerdon S. Hubbard, as it was related by the Indians to him. It has not as yet appeared in print, and is valuable as well as interesting, inasmuch as it explains why the Iroquois Eiver has beea so called for a period of nearly two centuries, and also because it gives the origin of the name Watseka. The tradition is substantially as follows : Many years ago the Iro. quois attacked an Indian village situated on the banks of the river & few miles below the old county seat, — Middleport, — and drove oui the occupants with great slaughter. The fugitives were collected in the night time some distance away, lamenting their disaster. A wo- man, possessing great courage, urged the men to return and attack the Iroquois, saying the latter were then rioting in the spoils of the village and exulting over their victory ; that they would not expect dange^ from their defeated enemy, and that the darkness of the night would prevent their knowing the advance upon them. The warriors refused to go. The woman then said that she would raise a party of squaws and return to the village and fight the Iroquois ; adding that death or captivity would be the fate of the women and children on the morrow, * La Hontan's New Voyages to America, vol. 1, pp. 128, 129. t Charlevoix' Narrative Journal, vol. 2, p. 199. INDIAN LEGEND. 115 and that they might as well die in an effort to regain their village and property as to submit to a more dreadful fate. She 'called for volun- teers and the women came forward in large numbers. Seeing the bravery of their wives and daughters the men were ashamed of their cowardice and became inspired with a desperate courage. A plan of attack was speedily formed and successfully executed. The Iroquois, taken entirely unawares, were surprised and utterly defeated. The name of the heroine who suggested and took an active part in this act of bold retaliation, bore the name of Watoh-e-kee. In honor of her bravery and to perpetuate the story of the engagement, a coun- cil of the tribe was convened which ordained that when Watch-e-kee died her name should be bestowed upon the most accomplished maiden of the tribe, and in this way be handed down from one generation to another. By such means have the name and the tradition been pre- served. The last person who bore this name was the daughter of a Potta- watomie chief, with whose band Col. Hubbard was intimately associ- ated as a trader for many years. She was well known to many of the old settlers in Danville and upon the Kankakee. She was a person of great beauty, becoming modesty, and possessed of superior intelligence. She had great influence among her own people and was highly re- spected by the whites. She accompanied her tribe to the westward of the Mississippi, on their removal from the state. The present county seat of Iroquois county is named after her, and Col. Hubbard advises the author that "Watseka, as the name is generally spelled, is incorrect, and that the orthography for its true pronunciation should be Watch-e- kee.* We resume the narration of the decline of the Illinois : La Salle's fortification at Starved Eock gathered about it populous villages of IllinoiSj Shawnees, Weas, Piankeshaws and other kindred tribes, shown on Franquelin's map as the Colonie Du Sr. de la Salle.f The Iroquois were barred out of the country of the Illinois tribes, and the latter enjoyed security from their old enemies. La Salle himself, speaking of his success in establishing a colony at the Kock, says : " There would he nothing to fear from the Iroquois when the nations of the south, * The Iroquois also bore the name of Can-o-wa-ga, doubtless an Indian name. It had another aboriginal name, Mocdbella (which was, probably, a French-Canadian cor- ruption of the Kiekapoo word Mo-qua), signifying; a bear. Beck's Illinois and Mis- souri Gazetteer, p. 90. The joint commission appointed by the legislatures of Indiana and Illinois to run the boundaiy line between the two states, in their report in 1831, and upon their map deposited in the archives at Indianapolis, designate the Iroquois by the name of Pick-a-mink .River. They also named Sugar Creek after Mr. McDon- ald, of Vincennes, Indiana, who conducted the surveys for the commission. tThis part of Franquelin's map appears in the well executed frontispiece of Park- insons Discovery of the Great West. 116 HISTORIC KOTES OS THE NORTHWEST. strengthened through their intercourse with the French, shall stop their conquest, and prevent their being powerful by carrying off a great number of their women and children, which they can easily do from the inferiority of the weapons of their enemies. As respects com- merce, that post will probably increase our traflBc still more than has been done by the establishment of Fort Frontenac, which was built with success for that purpose ; for if the Illinois and their allies were to catch the beavers which the Iroquois now kill in the neighborhood in order to carry them to the English, the latter not being any longer able to get them from their own colonies would be obliged to buy from us, to the great benefit of those who have the privilege of this traffic. These were the views which the Sieur de la Salle had in placing the settlement where it is. The colony has already felt its eiTects, as all our allies, who had fled after the departure of M. de Frontenac, have returned to their ancient dwellings, in consequence of the confidence caused by the fort, near which they have defeated a party of Iroquois, and have built four forts to protect themselves from hostile incursions. The Governor, M. de la Barre, and the intendant, M. de Muelles, have told Sieur de la Salle that they would write to Monseigneur to inform, him of the importance of that fort in order to keep the Iroquois in check, and that M. de Sagny had proposed its establishment in 1678. Monsiegneur Colbert permitted Sieur de la Salle to build it, and granted it to him as a property." * The fort at Ze Rocher (the rock) was constructed on its summit in 1682, and enclosed with a palisade. It was subsequently granted to Tonti and Forest. -f It was abandoned as a military post in the year 1702; and when Charlevoix went down the Illinois in 1721 he passed the Eock, and said of it : " This is the point of a very high terrace stretching the space of two hundred paces, and bending or winding with the course of the river. This rock is steep on all sides, and at a distance one would take it for a fortress. Some remains of a palisado are still to be seen on it, the Illinois having formerly cast up an en- trenchment here, which might be easily repaired in case of any inter- ruption of the enemy.":j: The abandonment of Fort St. Louis in 1702 was followed soon after by a dispersion of the tribes and remnants of tribes that La Salle and Tonti had gathered about it, except the straggling village of the Illinois. * Memoir of the Sieur de la Salle, reporting to Monseigneur de Seineelav the dis- coveries made by him under the order of His Majesty. Historical CoUections of Louisiana, Part I, p. 42. t Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 494. % Charlevoix' Narrative Journal, vol. 2, p. 200. DECLINE OP THE ILLINOIS. 117 The Iroquois came no more subsequent to 1721, having war enough •on their hands nearer home ; but the Illinois were constantly harassed by other enemies; the Sacs, Foxes, Kickapoos and Pottawatomies. In 1722 their villages at the Rock and on Peoria Lake were besieged by the Foxes, and a detachment of a hundred men under Chevalier de Artaguette and Sieur de Tisne were sent to their assistance. Forty of these French soldiers, with four hundred Indians, marched by land to Peoria Lake. However, before the reinforcements reached their des- tination they learned that the Foxes had retreated with a loss of more than a hundred and twenty of their men. " This success did not, however, prevent the Illinois, although they had only lost twenty men, with some women and children, from leaving the Rock and Pimiteony, where they were kept in constant alarm, and proceeding to unite with those of their brethren who had settled on the Mississippi ; this was a stroke of grace for most of them, the small number of missionaries preventing their supplying so many towns scattered far apart ; but on the other side, as there was nothing to check the raids of the Foxes along the Illinois River, communication between Louisiana and New France became much less practicable."* The fatal dissolution of the Illinois still proceeded, and their ancient homes and hunting grounds were appropriated by the more vigorous Sacs, Foxes, Pottawatomies and Kickapoos. The killing of Pontiac at Cahokia, whither he had retired after the failure of his effort to rescue the country from the English, was laid upon the Illinois, a charge which, whether true or false, hastened the climax of their destruction. General Harrison stated that " the Illinois confederacy was com- posed of five tribes : the Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Peorians, Michiganians and the Temarois, speaking the Miami language, and no doubt branches of that nation. When I was first appointed Governor of the Indiana Territory (May, 1800), these once powerful tribes were re- duced to about thirty warriors, of whom twenty-five were Kaskaskias, four Peorians, and a single Michiganian. There was an individual lately alive at St. Louis who saw the enumeration made of them by the Jesuits in 1745, making the number of their warriors feur thou- sand. A furious war between them and the Sacs and Kickapoos reduced them to that miserable remnant which had taken refuge amongst the white people in the towns of Kaskaskia and St. Genieve."f * History of New France, vol. 6, p. 71. t Official letter of Gen. Harrison to Hon. John Armstrong, Secretary of War, •dated at Cincinnati, March 32, 1814: contained in Captain M'Afee's " History of the iate War in the Western Country." 118 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. By successive treaties their lands in Illinois were ceded to the United States, and they were removed west of the Missouri. In 1872 they had dwindled to forty souls — men, women and children all told. Thus have wasted away the original occupants of the larger part of Illinois and portions of Iowa and Missouri. In 1684 their single vil- lage at La Salle's colony, could muster twelve hundred warriors. In the days of their strength they nearly exterminated the Winnebagoes, and their war parties penetrated the towns of the Iroquois in the valleys of the Mohawk and Genesee. They took the Metchigamis under their protection, giving them security against enemies with whom the latter could not contend. This people who had dominated over the surround- ing tribes, claiming for themselves the name Illini or Linneway, to rep- resent their superior manhood, have disappeared from the earth ; another race, representing a higher civilization, occupy their ancient domains, and already, even the origin of their name and the location of their cities have become the subjects of speculation. CHAPTER XIV. THE MIAMIS— THE MIAMI, PIANKESHAW, AND WEA BANDS. The people known to lis as the Miamis formerly dwelt beyond the Mississippi, and, according to their own traditions, came originally from the Pacific. " If what I have heard asserted in several places be true, the Illinois and Miamis came from the banks of a very distant sea to the westward. It would seem that their first stand, after they made their first descent into this country, was at Moingona* At least it is certain that one of their tribes bears that name. The rest are known imder the name of Peorias, Tamaroas, Caoqnias and Kaskaskias." The migration of the Miamis from the west of the Mississippi, eastward through "Wisconsin and northern Illinois, around the south- em end of Lake Michigan to Detroit, and thence up the Maumee and down the Wabash, and eastward through Indiana into Ohio as far as the Great Miami, can be followed through the mass of records handed down to us from the missionaries, travelers and oflScers connected with the French. Speaking of the mixed village of Maskoutens, situated on Fox River, "Wisconsin, at the time of his visit there in 1670, Father Claude Dablon says the village of the Fire-nation " is joined in the circle of the same barriers to another people, named Oumiami, which is one of the Illinois nations, which is, as it were, dismembered from the others, in order to dwell in these quarters.f It is beyond this great river \ that are placed the Illinois of whom we speak, and from whom are detached those who dwell here with the Fire-nation to form here a transplanted colony." From the quotations made there remains little doubt that the Mi- amis were originally a branch of the great Illinois nation. This theory is confirmed by writers of our own time, among whom we may men- tion General "William H. Harrison, whose long acquaintance and ofiicial connection with the several bands of the Miamis and Illinois gave him * Charlevoix' Narrative Journal, vol. 3, p. 227. Moingona, from undoubted authorities, was a name given to the Des Moines River; and we find on the original map, drawn by Marquette, the village of the Moingona placed on the Des Moines above a village of the Peorias on the same stream. t Father Dablon is here describing the same village referred to by Father Mar- quette in that part of his Journal which we have copied on page 44. X The Mississippi, of which the missionary had been speaking in the paragraph preceding that which we quote. 119 120 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOKTHWEST. the opportunities, of which he availed himself, to acquire an intimate knowledge concerning them. "Although the language, manners and customs of the Kaskaskias make it sufficiently certain that they derived their origin from the same source with the Miamis, the connection had been dissolved before the French had penetrated from Canada to the Mississippi."* The assertion of General Har- rison that the tribal relation between the Illinois and Miamis had been broken at the time of the discovery of the Upper Mississippi valley by the French is sustained with great unanimity by all other authorities. In the long and disastrous wars waged upon the Illinois by the Iroquois, Sacs and Foxes, Kickapoos and other enemies, we have no instance given where the Miamis ever offered assistance to their ancient kinsmen. After the separation, on the contrary, they often lifted the bloody hatchet against them. Father Dablon, in the narrative frOm which we have quoted, f gives a detailed account of the civility of the Miamis at Mascouten, and the formality and court routine with which their great chief was surrounded. "The chief of the Miamis, whose name was Tetin- choua, was surrounded by the most notable people of the village, who, assuming the role of courtiers, with civil posture full of defer- ence, and keeping always a respectful silence, magnified the great- ness of their king. The chief and his routine gave Father Dablon every mark of their most distinguished esteem. The physiognomy of the chief was as mild and as attractive as any one could wish to see ; and while his reputation as a warrior was great, his features bore a softness which charmed all those who beheld him." Mcholas Perrot, with Sieur de St. Lussin, dispatched by Talon, the intendant, to visit the westward nations, with whom the French had intercourse, and invite them to a council to be held the follow- ing spring at the Sault Ste. Marie, was at this Miami village shortly after the visit of Dablon. Perrot was treated with great consider- ation by the Miamis. Tatinchoua "sent out a detachment to meet the French agent and receive him in military style. The detach- ment advanced in battle array, all the braves adorned with feathers, armed at all points, were uttering war cries from time to time. The Pottawatomies who escorted Perrot, seeing them come in this guise, prepared to receive them in the same manner, and Perrot put him- self at their head. When the two troops were in face of each other, they stopped as if to take breath, then all at once Perrot took the right, the Miamis the left, all running in Indian file, as thcmgh they wished to gain an advantage to charge. * Memoirs of General Harrison, by Moses Dawson, d 62 t Relations, 1670, 1671. ^' ' OF THE NAME MIAMI. 121 " But the Miamis -wheeling in the forni of an arc, the Pottawat- omies were invested on all sides. Then both uttered loud yells, which were the signals for a kind of combat. The Miamis fired a volley from their guns, which were only loaded with powder, and the Pottawatomies returned it in the same way, after this they closed, tomahawk in hand, all the blows being received on the tom- ahawks. Peace was then made ; the Miamis presented the calumet to Perrot, and led him with all his chief escort into the town, where the great chief assigned him a guard of fifty men, regaled him mag- nificently after the custom of the country, and gave him the diver- sion of a game of ball."* The Miami chief never spoke to his subjects, but imparted his orders through some of his ofiicers. On account of his advanced age he was dissuaded from attending the council to be held at Ste. Marie, between the French and the Indians ; however, he deputized the Pottawatomies to act in his name. This confederacy called themselves "Miamis," and by this name were known to the surrounding tribes. The name was not bestowed upon them by the French, as some have assumed from its resem- blance to Mon-ami, because they were the friends of the latter. When Hennepin was captured on the Mississippi by a war party of the Sioux, these savages, with their painted faces rendered more hideous by the devilish contortions of their features, cried out in angry voices, " '■Mia-hatna ! Mia-hama ! ' and we made signs with our oars upon the sand, that the Miamis, their enemies, of whom they were in search, had passed the river upon their flight to join- the Illinois."t "The confederacy which obtained the general appellation of Miamis, from the superior numbers of the individual tribe to whom that name more properly belonged," were subdivided into three principal tribes or bands, namely, the Miamis proper, "Weas and Piankeshaws. French writers have given names to two or three other subdivisions or families of the three principal bands, whose identity has never been clearly traced, and who figure so little in the accounts which we have of the Miamis, that it is not necessary here to specify their obsolete names. The diiferent ways of writing * History of New France, vol. 3, pp. 166, 167. Father Charlevoix improperly locates this village, where Perrot was received, at " Chicago, at the lower end of Lake Michigan, where the Miamis then were," page 166, above (quoted. The Miamis were not then at Chicago. The reception of Perrot was at the mixed village on Fox River, Wisconsin, as stated in the text. The error of Charlevoix, as to the location of this village, has been pointed out by Dr. Shea, in a note on page 166, in the "History of New France," and also by Francis Parkman, in a note on page 40 of his " Discovery Of the Great West." t Hennepin, p. 187. 122 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. Miamis are: Oumiamwek,* Oumajtnis,t Maumees,:j: Au-Miaini§ (contracted to Au-Mi and Omee) and Mine-ami. || The Frencli called the'Weas Ouiatenons, Syatanons, Ouyatanons and Ouias ; tlie English and Colonial traders spelled the word, Onicatanon,^" "Waj-ough-ta nies,** "Wawiachtens,tt and Wehahs.j^j; For the Fiankeshaws, or Pou-an-ke-ki^as, as they were called in the earliest accounts, we have Peanguichias, Pian-gui-shaws, Pyan- ke-shas and Pianquishas. The Miami tribes were known to the Iroquois, or Five Nations of New York, as the Twight-wees^ a name generally adopted by the British, as well as by the American colonists. Of this name there are various corruptions in pronunciation and spelling, examples of which we have in ' ' Twich-twichs, " " Twick-twicks, " " Twis-twicks, ' ' " Twigh-twees, " and " Twick-tovies. " The insertion of these many names, applied to one people, would seem a tedious superfluity, were it otherwise possible to retain the identity of the tribes to which these different appellations have been given by the French, British and American officers, traders and writers. It will save the reader much perplexity in pursuing a history of the Miamis if it is borne in mind that all these several names refer to the Miami nation or to one or the other of its respective bands. Besides the colony mentioned by Dablon and Charlevoix, on the Fox Biver of Wisconsin, Hennepin informs us of a village of Miamis south and west of Peoria Lake at the time he was at the latter place in 1679, and it was probably this village whose inhabit- ants the Sioux were seeking. St. Cosmie, in 1699, mentions the "village of the ' Peanzichias-Miamis, who formerly dwelt on the ■ of the Mississippi, and who had come some years previous and settled ' on the Illinois River, a few miles below the confluence of theDesPlaines."§§ The Miamis were within the territory of La Salle's colony, of which Starved Rock was the center, and counted thirteen hundred warriors. The "Weas and Piankeshaws were also there, the former having five hundred warriors and the Piankeshaw band one hundred and fifty. This was prior to 1687. || 1 At a later day the Weas "were at Chicago, but being afraid of the canoe people, left it."T|l Sieur de Courtmanche, sent westward in 1701 to negotiate with the tribes in that part of New France, was at ' ' Chicago, where he found some * Marquette, f La Hontan. % Gen. Harrison. § Gen. Harmar. \ Lewis Evans. IT George Croghan's Narrative JournEil. ** Croghan's List of Indian Tribes, tt John Heokwelder, a Moravian Missionaiy. %% Catlin's Indian Tribes. §§ St. Cosmie's Journal in "Early Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi," p. 58. Ill Parkman's Discovery of the Great West, note on p. 290. Hit Memoir, on the Indian tribes, prepared in 1718: Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 890. AT WAE WITH THE SIOUX. 123 Weas (Ouiatanons), a Miami tribe, who had sung the war-song against the Sioux and the Iroquois. He obliged them to lay down their arms and extorted from them a promise to send deputies to Montreal."* In a letter dated in 1721, published in his "Narrative Journal," Father Charlevoix, speaking of the Miamis about the head of Lake Michigan, says : ' ' Fifty years ago the Miamis were settled on the southern extremity of Lake Michigan, in a place called Chicagou, from the name of a small river which runs into the lake, the source of which is not far distant from that of the river of the Illinois ; they are at present divided into three villages, one of which stands on the river St. Joseph, the second on another river which bears their name and runs into Lake Erie, and the third upon the river Ouabache, which empties its waters into the Mississippi. These last are better known by the appellation of Ouyatanons." f In 1694, Count Frontenac, in a conference with the Western In- dians, requested the Miamis of the Pepikokia band who resided on the Maramek,:]: to remove, and join the tribe which was located on the Saint Joseph, of Lake Michigan. The reason for this request, as stated by Frontenac himself, was, that he wished the different bands of the Miami confederacy to unite, "so as to be able to exe- cute with greater facility the commands which he might issue." At that time the Iroquois were at war with Canada, and the French were endeavoring to persuade the western tribes to take up the tom- ahawk in their behalf. The Miamis promised to observe the Gov- ernor's wishes and began to make preparations for the removal. § "Late in August, 1696, they started to join their brethren settled on the St. Joseph. On their way they were attacked by the Sioux, who killed several. The Miamis of the St. Joseph, learning this hostility, resolved to avenge their slaughter. They pursued the Sioux to their own country, and found them entrenched in their fort with some Frenchmen of the class known as coureurs des bois (bush- lopers). They nevertheless attacked them repeatedly with great res- olution, but were repulsed, and at last compelled to retire, after losing several of their braves. On their way home, meeting other Frenchmen carrying arms and ammunition to the Sioux, they seized all they had, but did them no harm." || The Miamis were very much enraged at the French for supplying * History of New France, vol. 5, p. 143. t Charlevoix' Narrative Journal, vol. 1, p. 387. i The Kalamazoo, of Michigan. § Paris Documents, vol. 9, pp. 634, 635. if Charlevoix' History of New France, vol. 5, p. 65. 124 HISTORIC KOTES ON" THE NOKTHWEST. their enemies, the Sioux, with guns and ammunition. It toOk all the address of Count Frontenac to prevent them from joining the Iroquois ; indeed, they seized upon the French agent and trader, l^icholas Perrot, who had heen commissioned to lead the Maramek band to the St. Josephs, and would have burnt him alive had it not been for the Foxes, who interposed in his behalf.* This was the commencement of the bitter feeling of hostility with which, from that time, a part of the Miamis always regarded the French. From this period the movements of the tribe were observed by the French with jealous suspicion. "We have already shown that in 1699 the Miamis were at Fort "Wayne, engaged in transferring across their portage emigrants from Canada to Louisiana, and that, within a few years after, the Weas are described as having -their fort and several miles of cultivated fields on the "Wea plains below La Fayette, f From the extent and character of these improvements, it may be safely assumed that the "Weas had been established here some years prior to 1718, the date of the Memoir. "When the French first discovered the Wabash, the Piankeshaws were found in possession of the land on either side of that stream, from its mouth to the Vermilion Hiver, and no claim had ever been made to it by any other tribe until 1804, the period of a ces- sion of a part of it to the "United States by the Delawares, who had obtained their title from the Piankeshaws themselves.:]: "We have already seen that at the time of the first account we have relating to the Maumee and the "Wabash, the Miamis had vil- lages and extensive improvements near Fort "Wayne, on the "Wea prairie below La Fayette, on the Vermilion of the "Wabash, and at Yincennes. At a later day they established villages at other places, viz, near the forks of the "Wabash at Huntington, on the Mississin- ewa,§ on Eel River near Logansport, while near the source of this river, and westward of Fort "Wayne, was the village of the "Little Turtle." Near the mouth of the Tippecanoe was a sixth village. * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 673. ^Vide, p. 104. i Memoirs of General Harrison, pp. 61, 63. IThis stream empties into the Wabash near Peru, and on the opposite side of the nver from that city. The word is a compound of missi, great, and assin, stone, signify- ing the river of the great or much stone. "The Mississinewa, with its pillared rocks, IS full of geological as well as romantic interest. Some three miles from Peru the channel is cut through a solid wall of cherty silico-magnesian limestone. The action of the river and unecjual disintegration of the rocks has carved the precipitous wall, which converts the river's course into a system of pillars, rounded buttresses, alcoves, chambers and overhanging sides." Prof. CoUett's Report on the Geology of Miami county, Indiana. A WARLIKE PEOPLE. 125 Passing below the Vermilion, the Miamis had other villages, one on Sugar creek* and another near Terre Haute, f The country of the Miamis extended west to the watershed be- tween the Illinois and "Wabash rivers, which separated their posses- sions from those of their brethren, the Illinois. On the north were the Pottawatomies, who were slowly but steadily pushing their lines southward into the territory of the Miamis. The superior niimbers of the Miamis and their great valor enabled them to extend the limit of their hunting grounds eastward into Ohio, and far within the territory claimed by the Iroquois. "They were the undoubted proprietors of all that beautiful country watered by the Wabash and its tributaries, and there remains as little doubt that their claim ex- tended as far east as the Scioto. ":j; Unlike the Illinois, the Miamis held their own until they were placed upon an equal footing with the tribes eastward by obtaining possession of fire-arms. "With these implements of civilized warfare they were able to maintain their tribal integrity and the independ- ence they cherished. They were not to be controlled by the French, nor did they sufier enemies from^ any quarter to impose upon them without prompt retaliation. They traded and fought with the French, English and Americans as their interests or passions in- clined. They made peace or declared war against other nations of their own race as policy or caprice dictated. More than once they compelled even the arrogant Iroquois to beg from the governors of the American colonies that protection which they themselves had failed to secure by their own prowess. Bold, independent and flushed with success, the Miamis afforded a poor field for missionary work, and the Jesuit Kelations and pastoral letters of the French priesthood have less to say of the Miami confederacy than any of the other western tribes, the Kickapoos alone excepted. The country of the Miamis was accessible, by way of the lakes, to the far trader of Canada, and from the eastward, to the adven- turers engaged in the Indian trade from Pennsylvania, New York and "V^irginia, either by way of the Ohio River or a commerce car- ried on overland by means of pack-horses. The English and the French alike coveted their peltries and sought their powerful alli- *This stream was at one time called Eocky Eiver, vide Brown's Western Gazet- teer. By the Wea Miamis it was called Pun-go-se-con-e, "Sugar tree " (creek), vide statement of Mary Ann Baptiste to the author. fThe villages below the Vermilion and above Vincennes figure on some of the early English maps and in accounts given by traders as the lower or little Wea towns. Be- sides thp,3e, which were the principal ones, the Miamis had a village at Thomtown, and many others of lesser note on the Wabash and its tributaries. tOflScial Letter of General Harrison to the Secretary of War, before quoted. 126 HISTORIC KOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. ance, therefore the Miamis were harassed with the jealousies and diplomacy of both, and if they or a part of their several tribes be- came inveigled into an alliance with the one, it involved the hostility of the other. The French government sought to use them to check the westward advance of the British colonial influence, while the latter desired their assistance to curb the French, whose ambitions schemes involved nothing less than the exclusive subjugation of the entire continent westward of the AUeghanies. In these wars between the English and the French the Miamis were constantly reduced in numbers, and whatever might have been the result to either of the former, it only ended in disaster to themselves. Some- times they divided ; again they were entirely devoted to the interest of the English and Iroquois. Then they joined the French against^ the British and Iroquois, and when the British ultimately obtained the mastery and secured the valley of the Mississippi,— the long sought for prize,— the Miamis entered the confederacy of Pontiac to drive them out of the country. They fought with the British, — except the Piankeshaw band,— against the colonies during the revolutionary war. After its close their young men were largely occupied in the predatory warfare waged by the several Maumee and Wabash tribes upon the frontier settlements of Ohio, Pennsyl- vania, Virginia and Kentucky. They likewise entered the con- federacy of Tecumseh, and, either openly or in secret sympathy, they were the allies of the British in the war of 1812. Their history occupies a conspicuous place in the military annals of the west, extending over a period of a century, during which time they main- tained a manly struggle to retain possession of their homes in the valleys of the "Wabash and Maumee. The disadvantage under which the Miamis labored, in encounters with their enemies, before they obtained fire-arms, was often over- come by the exercise of their cunning and bravery. ' ' In the year 1680 the Miamis and Illinois were hunting on the St. Joseph Biver. A party of four hundred Iroquois surprised them and killed thirty or forty of their hunters and captured three hundred of their women and children. After the victors had rested awhile they prepared to return to their homes by easy journeys, as they had reason to believe that they could reach their own villages before the defeated enemy would have time to rally and give notice of their disaster to those of their nation who were hunting in remoter places. But they were deceived ; for the Illinois and Miamis rallied to the number of two hundred, and resolved to die fighting rather than suffer their women and children to be carried away. In the meantime, because they DEFEAT OF THE IKOQUOIS. 127 were not equal to their enemies in equipment of arms or numbers, they contrived a notable stratagem. After the Miamis had duly considered in what way they would at- tack the Iroquois, they decided to follow them, keeping a small dis- tance in the rear, until it should rain. The heavens seemed to favor their plan, for, after awhile it began to rain, and rained continually the whole day from morning until night. When the rain began to fall the Miamis quickened their march and passed by the Iroquois, and took a position two leagues in advance, where they lay in an am- buscade, hidden by the tall grass, in the middle of a prairie, which the Iroquois had to cross in order to reach the woods beyond, where they designed to kindle fires and encamp for the night. The Illi- nois and Miamis, lying at full length in the grass on either side of the trail, waited until the Iroquois were in their midst, when they shot off their arrows, and then attacked vigorously with their clubs. The Iroquois endeavored to use their fire-arms, but finding them of no service because the rain had dampened and spoiled the priming, threw them upon th^ ground, and undertook to defend themselves with their clubs. In the use of the latter weapon the Iroquois were no match for their more dexterous and nimble enemies. They were forced to yield the contest, and retreated, fighting until night came on. They lost one hundred and eighty of their warriors. The fight lasted about an hour, and would have continued through the night, were it not that the Miamis and Illinois feared that their women and children (left in the rear and bound) would be exposed to some surprise in the dark. The victors rejoined their women and children, and possessed themselves of the fire-arms of their enemies. The Miamis and Illinois then returned to their own country, without taking one Iroquois for fear of weakening themselves.* Failing in their first efforts to withdraw the Miamis from the French, and secure their fur trade to the merchants at Albany and New York, the English sent their allies, the Iroquois, against them. A series of encounters between the two tribes was the result, in *This axMJOunt is taken from La Hontan, vol. 2, pp. 63, 64 and 65. The facts con- cerning the engagement, as given by La Hontan, may be relied upon as substantially correct, for they were written only a few ^ears after the event. La Hontan, as appears from the date of his letters which comprise the principal part of his volumes, was in this country from November, 1683, to 1689, and it was during this time that he was collecting the information contained in his works. The place where this engagement between the Miamis and Illinois against the Iroquois occurred, is a matter of doubt. Some late commentators claim that it was upon the Maumee. La Hontan says that the engagement was "near the river Oumamis." When he wrote, the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan was called the river Oumamis, and on the map accompanying La Hon- tan's volume it is so;called, while the Maumee, though laid down on the map, is designated by no name whatever. It would, therefore, appear that when La Hontan mentioned the Miami River he referred to the St. Joseph. 128 HISTORIC NOTES OK THE NORTHWEST. which the blood of both was profusely shed, to further the purposes of a purely commercial transaction. In these engagements the Senecas — a tribe of the Iroquois, or Five Nations, residing to the west of the other tribes of the confed- eracy, and, in consequence, being nearest to the Miamis, and more directly exposed to their fury — were nearly destroyed at the out- set. The Miamis followed up their success and drove the Senecas behind the palisades that inclosed their villages. For three years the war was carried on with a bitterness only known to exasperated savages. When at last the Iroquois saw they could no longer defend them- selves against the Miamis, they appeared in council before the Gov- ernor of New York, and, pittyingly, claimed protection from him, who, to say 'the least, had remained silent and permitted his own people to precipitate this calamity upon them. ''You say you will support us against all your kings and our enemies ; we will then forbear keeping any more correspondence with the French of Canada if the great King of England will de- fend our people from the Twichtwicks and other nations over whom the French have an influence and have encouraged to destroy an abundance of our people, even since the peace between the two crowns^'' etc.* The governor declined sending troops to protect the Iroquois against their enemies, but informed them: "You must be sensible that the Dowaganhaes, Twichtwicks, etc. , and other remote Indians, are vastly more numerous than you Five Nations, and that, by their continued warring upon you, they will, in a few years, totally de- stroy you. I should, therefore, think it prudence and good policy in you to try all possible means to fix a trade and correspondence with all those nations, by which means you would reconcile them to your- selves, and with my assistance, I am in hopes that, in a short time, they might be united with us in the covenant chain, and then you might, at all times, without hazard, go hunting into their country, which, I understand, is much the best for beaver. I wish you would try to bring some of them to speak to me, and perhaps I might pre- vail upon them to come and live amongst you. I should think my- self obliged to reward you for such a piece of service as I tender your good advantage, and will always use my best endeavor to pre- serve you from all your enemies." * Speech of an Iroquois chief at a conference held at Albany, August 36, 1700, be- tween Richard, Earl of Belmont, Captain-General and Govemor-in-Chief of His Maj- esty's provinces of New York, etc., and the sachems of the Five Nations. New York Colonial Documents, vol. 4, p. 729. TKADE WITH THE ENeLISH. 129 The conference continued several days, during which the Iroquois stated their grievances in numerous speeches, to which the governor graciously replied, using vague terms and making no promises, after the manner of the extract from his speech above quoted, but placed great stress on the value of the fur trade to the English, and enjoining his brothers, the Iroquois, to bring all their peltries to Albany; to maintain their old alliance with the English, offensive and defensive, and have no intercourse whatever, of a friendly na- ture, with the rascally French of Canada. The Iroquois declined to follow the advice of the governor, deeming it of little credit to their courage to sue for peace. In the meantime the governor sent emissaries out among the IVtiamis, with an invitation to open a trade with the English. The messengers were captured by the commandant at Detroit, and sent, as prisoners, to Canada. However, the Miamis, in July, 1702, sent, through the sachems of the Five Nations, a message to the governor at Albany, advising him that many of the Miamis, with another nation, had removed to, and were then living at, Tjughsaghrondie,* near by the fort which the French had built the previous summer ; that they had been informed that one of their chiefs, who had visited Albany two years before, had been kindly treated, and that they had now come forward to inquire into the trade of Albany, and see if goods could not be purchased there cheaper than elsewhere, and that they had intended to go to Canada with their beaver and peltries, but that they ventured to Albany to inquire if goods could not be secured on. better terms. The governor replied that he was extremely pleased to speak with the Miamis about the establishment of a lasting friend- ship and trade, and in token of his sincere intentions presented his guests with guns, powder, hats, strouds, tobacco and pipes, and sent to their brethren at Detroit, waumpum, pipes, shells, nose and ear jewels, looking-glasses, fans, children's toys, and such other light articles as his guests could conveniently carry ; and, finally, assured them that the Miamis might come freely to Albany, where they would be treated kindly, and receive, in exchange for their peltries, everything as cheap as any other Indians in covenant of friendship with the English, t During the same year (1702) the Miamis and Senecas settled their quarrels, exchanged prisoners, and established a peace between themselves.:]: * The Irociuois name for the Straits of Detroit. t Proceedings of a conference between the parties mentioned above. New York Colonial Documents, vol. 4, pp. 979 to 981. i New York Colonial Documents, vol. 4, p. 989. 9 130 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOBTHWBST. The French were not disposed to allow a portion of the fur trade to be diverted to Albany. Peaceable means were first used to dis- suade the Miamis from trading with the English ; failing in this, forcible means were resorted to. Captain Antoine De La Mothe Cadillac marched against the Miamis and reduced them to terms.* The Miamis were not unanimous in the choice of their friends. Some adhered to the French, while others were strongly inclined to trade with the English, of whom they could obtain a better quality of goods at cheaper rates, while at the same time they were allowed a greater price for their furs. Cadillac had hardly effected a coercive peace with the Miamis before the latter were again at Albany. "I have," writes Lord Cournbury to the Board of Trade, in a letter dated August 20, ITOS,-)- "been there five years endeavoring to get these nations [referring to the Miamis and another nation] to trade with our people, but the French have always dissuaded them from coming until this year, when, goods being very scarce, they came to Albany, where our people have supplied them with goods much cheaper than ever the French did, and they promise to return in the spring with a much greater number of their nations, which would be a very great advantage to this province. I did, in a letter of the 25th day of June last, inform your Lordships that three French soldiers, having deserted from the French at a place they call Le Destroit, came to Albany. Another deserter came from the same place, whom I examined myself, and I inclose a copy of his exam- ination, by which your Lordships will perceive how easily the French may he leaten out of Canada. The better I am acquainted with this country, and the more I inquire into matters, so much the more I am confirmed in my opinion of the facility of effecting that conquest, and by the method I then proposed." Turning to French documents we find that Sieur de Callier de- sired the Miamis to withdraw from their several widely separated villages and settle in a body upon the St. Joseph. At a great council of the westward tribes, held in Montreal in 1694, the French In- tendant, in a speech to the Miamis, declares that "he will not believe that the Miamis wish to obey him until they make altogether one and the same fire, either at the Eiver St. Joseph or at some other place adjoining it. He tells them that he has got near the Iroquois, and has soldiers at Katarakoui,:]: in the fort that had been abandoned ; that the Miamis must get near the enemy, in order to imitate him *Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 671: note of the editor. t New York Colonial Documents, vol. 5, p. 65. X At Fort Frontenac. URGED TO UNITE AT ONE PLACE. 131 (the Intendant), and be able to strike the Iroquois the more readily. My children," continued the Intendant, "tell me that the Miamis are numerous, and able of themselves to destroy the Iroquois. Like them, all are afraid. "What ! do you wish to abandon your country to your enemy ? . . . Have you forgotten that I waged war against him, principally on your account, alone ? Your dead are no longer visible in his country, their bodies are covered by those of the French who have perished to avenge them. I furnished you the means to avenge them, likewise. It depends only on me to receive the Iroquois as a friend, which I will not do on account of you, who would be destroyed were I to make peace without including you in its terms."* "I have heard," writes Governor Vaudreuil, in a letter dated the 28th of October, 1719, to the Council of Marine at Paris, "that the Miamis had resolved to remain where they were, and not go to the St. Joseph River, and that this resolution of theirs was dan- gerous, on account of the facUity they would have of communicating with the English, who were incessantly distributing belts secretly among the nations, to attract them to themselves, and that Sieur Dubinson had been designed to command the post of Ouaytanons, where he should use his influence among the Miamis to induce them to go to the Eiver St. Joseph, and in case they were not willing, that he should remain with them, to counteract the effect of those belts, which had already caused eight or ten Miami canoes to go that year to trade at Albany, and which might finally induce all of the Miami nation to follow the example, "f Finally, some twenty-five years later, as we learn from the letter of M. de Beauharnois, that this French officer, having learned that the English had established trading magazines on the Ohio, issued his orders to the command- -ants among the "Weas and Miamis, to drive the British off by force of arms and plunder their stores. :]: Other extracts might be drawn from the voluminous reports of the military and civil officers of the French and British colonial governments respectively, to the same purport as those already quoted ; but enough ,t|is been given to illustrate the unfortunate position of the Miamis. For a period of half a century they were placed between the cutting edges of English and French pur- poses, during which there was no time when they were not threat- ened with danger of, or engaged in, actual war either with the French or the English, or with some of their several Indian allies. * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 635. t Ibid, p. 894. J Ibid, p. 1105. 132 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. By this continual abrasion, the peace and happiness which should have been theirs was wholly lost, and their numbers constantly reduced. They had no relief from the strife, in which only injury could result to themselves, let the issue have been what it might between the English and the French, until the power of the latter was finally destroyed in 1763 ; and even then, after the French had given up the country, the Miamis were compelled to defend their own title to it against the arrogant claims of the English. In the effort of the combined westward tribes to wrest their country from the English, subsequent to the close of the colonial war, the Miamis took a conspicuous part. This will be noticed in a subsequent chap- ter. ■ After the conclusion of the revolutionary war, the several Miami villages from the Yermilion Eiver to Fort "Wayne suffered severely from the attacks of the federal government under General Harmer, and the military expeditions recruited in Kentucky, and commanded by Colonels Scott and Wilkinson. Besides these dis- asters, whole villages were nearly depopulated by the ravages of small-pox. The uncontrollable thirst for whisky, acquired, through a long course of years, by contact with unscrupulous traders, reduced their numbers still more, while it degraded them to the last degree. This was their condition in 1814, when General Harrison said of them: "The Miamis will not be in our way. They are a poor, miserable, drunken set, diminishing every year. Becoming too lazy to hunt, they feel the advantage of their annuities. The fear of the other Indians has alone prevented them from selling their whole claim to the United States ; and as soon as there is peace, or when the British can no longer intrigue, they will sell."* The same authority, in his historical address at Cincinnati in 1838, on the aborigines of the Valley of the Ohio, says: "At any time before the treaty of Greenville in 1795 the Miamis alone could have fur- nished more than three thousand warriors. Constant war with our frontier had deprived them of many of their braves, but the ravages of small-pox was the principal cause of the great decrease , in their numbers. They composed, however, a body of the finest light troops in the world. And had they been under an efficient system of discipline, or possessed enterprise equal to their valor, the settle- ment of the country would have been attended with much greater difficulty than was encountered in accomplishing it, and their final subjugation would have been delayed for some years." f Yet their decline, from causes assigned, was so rapid, that when * Official letter of General Harrison to the Secretary of War, of date March 24, 1814. t P. 39 of General Harrison's address, original pamphlet edition. CESSION OF THEIE LANDS. 133 the Baptist missionary, Isaac McCoy, was among them from 1817 until 1822, and drawing conclusions from personal contact, declared that the Miamis were not a warlike people. There is, perhaps, in the history of the North American Indians, no instance parallel to the utter demoralization of the Miamis, nor an example of a tribe which stood so high and had tallen so low through the practice of all the vices which degrade human beings. Mr. McCoy, within the period named, traveled up and down the Wabash, from Terre Haute to Fort "Wayne ; and at the villages near Montezuma, on Eel River, at the Mississinewa and Fort "Wayne, there were continuous rounds of drunken debauchery whenever whisky could be obtained, of which men, women and children all partook, and life was often sacrificed in personal broils or by exposure of the debauchees to the inclemency of the weather. * By treaties, entered into at various times, from 1795 to 1845, in- clusive, the Miamis ceded their lands in Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, and removed west of the Mississippi, going in villages or by detach^ ments, from time to time. At a single cession in 1838 they sold the government 177,000 acres of land in Indiana, which was only a fragment of their former possessions, still retaining a large tract. Thus they alienated their heritage, and gradually disappeared from the valleys of the Maumee and "Wabash. A few remained on their reservations and adapted themselves to the ways of the white peo- ple, and their descendants may be occasionally met with about Peru, Wabash and Fort Wayne. The money received from sales of their lands proved to them a calamity, rather than a blessing, as it intro- duced the most demoralizing habits. It is estimated that within a period of eighteen years subsequent to the close of the war of 1812 more than five hundred of them perished in drunken broils and fights, f The last of the Miamis to go westward were the Mississinewa band. This remnant, comprising in all three hundred and fifty per- sons, under chaf ge of Christmas Dagney, '^ left their old home in the * Mr. McCoy has contributed a valuable fund of original information in his History of Baptist Indian Missions, published in 1840. The volume contains six hundred and eleven pages. He mentions many instances of drunken orgies which he witnessed in the several Miami towns. We quote one of them: "An intoxicated Indian at Tort Wayne dismounted from his horse and ran up to a young Indian woman who was his sister-in-law, with a knife in his hand. She first ran around one of the company" pres- ent, and then another, to avoid the murderer, but in vain. He stabbed her with his knife. She then fled from the company. He stood looking after her, and seeing she •did not fall, pursued her, threw her to the earth and drove his knife into her heart, in the presence of the whole company, none of whom ventured to save the girl's life." P. 85. t Vide American Cyclopaedia, vol. 11, p. 490. i His name was, also, spelled Dazney and Dagnett. He was bom on the 35th of December, 1799, at the Wea village of Old Orchard Town, or We-au-ta-no, "The Ilisen Sun," situated two miles below Fort Harrison. His father, Ambroise Dagney, 134 HISTORIC KOTES OliT THE NORTHWEST. fall of 1846, and reached Cincinnati on canal-boats in October of that year. Here they were placed upon a steamboat and taken down the Ohio, up the Mississippi and Missouri, and landed late in the season at "Westport, near Kansas City. Eagged men and nearly naked women and children, forming a motley group, were huddled upon the shore, alone, with no friends to relieve their wants, and exposed to the bitter December winds that blew from the chilly plains of Kansas. In 1670 the Jesuit Father Dablon introduces the Miamis to our notice at the village of Maskoutench, where we see the chief surrounded by his officers of state in all the routine of bar- baric display, and the natives of other tribes paying his subjects the greatest deference. The Miamis, advancing eastward, in the rear of the line of their valorous warriors, pushed their villages into Michi- gan, Indiana, and as far as the river still bearing their name in Ohio. Coming in collision with the French, English and Americans, re- duced by constant wars, and decimated, more than all, with vices contracted by intercourse with the whites, whose virtues they failed to emulate, they make a westward turn, and having, in the progress of time, described the round of a most singular journey, we at last behold the miserable and friendless remnant on the same side of the was a Frenchman, a native of Kaskaskia, and served during Hamson's campaign against the Indians, in 1811, in Captain Scott's company, raised at Vincennes. He took part in the battle of Tippecanoe. His mother, Me-chin-quam-e-sha, the Beauti- ful Shade Tree, was the sister of Jocco, or Tack-he-ke-hah, "The Tall Oak," who was chief of the Wea band living at the village named, and whose people claimed the country east of the Wabash, from the mouth of Sugar Creek to a point some dis- tance below Terre Haute. "Me-chin-quam-e-sha" died in 1832, and was buried at Fort Harrison. Christmas Dagney received a good education under the instruction of the Catholics. He spoke French and English with great fluency, and was master of the dialects of the several Wabash tribes. For many years he was government inter- preter at Fort Harrison, and subsequently Indian agent, having the superintendency of the Wabash Miamis, whom he conducted westward. On the 16th of February, 1819, he was married to "Mary Ann Isaacs," of the Brothertown Indians, who had been spending a few weeks at the mission house of Isaac McCoy, situated on Raccoon Creek, — or Pishetva, as it was called by the Indians, — a few miles above Armysburg. The marriage was performed by Mr. McCoy "in the presence of our Indian neighbors, who were invited to attend the ceremony. And we had the happibess to have twenty- three of the natives partake of a meal prepared on the occasion." Vide page^64 in his book, before quoted. This was, doubtless, the first marriage that was celebrated after the formality of our laws within the present Kmits of Parke country. By the terms of the treaty at St. Mary's, concluded on the 2d of October, 1818, one section of land was reserved for the exclusive use of Mr. Dagney, and he went to Washington and selected a section that included the village of Armysburg, which at that time was the county seat, and consisted of a row of log houses formed out of sugar-tree logs and built continuously together, from which circumstance it derived the name of " String- town." As a speculation the venture was not successful, for the seat of justice was removed to Rockville, and town lots at Stringtown ceased to have even a prospective value. Mr. Dagney's family occupied the reservation as a farm until about 1846. Mr. Dagney died in 1848, at Coldwater Grove, Kansas. Her second husband was Babtise Peoria. Mrs. Babtise Peoria had superior opportunities to acquire an extensive knowl- edge of the Wabash tribes between Vincennes and Fort Wayne, as she lived on the Wabash from 1817 until 1846. She is now living at Paola, Kansas, where the author met her in November, 1878. REMOVAL WESTWARD. 135 Mississippi from whence their warlike progenitors had come nearly two centuries before. From Westport the Mississinewas were conducted to a place near the present village of Lowisburg, Kansas, in the county named (Miami) after the tribe. Here they suffered greatly. Nearly one third of their number died the first year. They were homesick and disconsolate to the last degree. " Strong men would actually weep, as their thoughts recurred to their dear old homes in Indiana, whither many of them would make journeys, barefooted, begging their way, and submitting to the imprecations hurled from the door of the white man upon them as they asked for a crust of bread. They wanted to die to forget their miseries." "I have seen," says Mrs. Mary Baptiste to the author, "mothers and fathers give their little children away to others of the tribe for adoption, and after singing their funeral songs, and joining in the solemn dance of death, go calmly away from the assemblage, to be seen no more alive. The Miamis could not be reconciled to the prairie winds of Kansas ; they longed for the woods and groves that gave a partial shade to the flashing waters of the Wah-pe-sha.''''* The Wea and Piankeshaw bands preceded the Mississinewas to the westward. They had become reduced to a yvretched community of about two hundred and fifty souls, and they suffered severely during the civil war, in Kansas. The Miamis, "Weas, Piankeshaws, and tlie remaining fragments of the Kaskaskias, containing under that name what yet remained of the several subdivisions of the old Illini confederacy, were gathered together by Baptiste Peoria, and consolidated under the title of The Confederated Tribes, f This *The peculiar sound with which Mrs. Baptiste gave the Miami pronunciation of Wabash is difficult to express in mere letters. The principal accent is on the first syl- lable, the minor accent on the last, while the second syllable is but slightly sounded. The word means "white" in both the Miami and Peoria dialects. In treating upon the derivation of the word Wabash (p. 100), the manuscript containing the statements of Mrs. Baptiste was overlooked. tThis remarkable man was the son of a daughter of, a sub-chief of the Peoria tribe. He was bom, according to the best information, in 1793, near the confluence of the Kankakee and Maple, as the Des Plaines River was called by the Illinois Indians and the French respectively. His reputed father was a French Canadian trader liv- ing with this tribe, and whose name was Baptiste. Young Peoria was called Batticy by his mother. Later in life he was known as Baptiste the Peoria, and finally as Bap- tiste Peoria. The people of his tribe gave the name a liquid sound, and pronounced it as if it were spelled Paola. The county seat of Miami county, Kansas, is named after him. He was a man of large frame, active, and possessed of great strength and courage. Like Keokuk, the great chief of the Sa<;s and Fox Indians, Paola was fond of athletic sports, and was an expert horseman. He had a ready command both of the French Canadian and the English languages. He was familiar with the dialects of the Pottawatomies, Shawnees, Delawares, Miamis and Kickapoos. These qualifications as a linguist soon brought him into prominence among the Indians, while his known integrity commended his services to the United States government. From the year 1821 to the year 1838 he assisted in the removal of the above-named tribes from Indi- 136 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. little confederatioii disposed of their reservation in Miami county, Kansas, and adjacent vicinity, and retired to a tract of reduced dimensions within the Indian Territory. Since their last change of location in 1867 they have made but little progress in their efforts toward a higher civilization. The numbers of what remains of the once numerous Illinois and Miami confederacies are reduced to less than two hundred persons. The Miamis, like the unfortunate man who has carried his dissipations beyond the limit from which there can be no healthy reaction, seem not to have recovered from the vices contracted before leaving the states, and with some notable exceptions, they are a listless, idle people, little worthy of the spirit that inspired the breasts of their ancestors. ana and Illinois to their reservations beyond the Mississippi. His duties as Indian agent brought him in contact with many of the early settlers on the Illinois and the Wabash, from Vincennes to Fort Wayne. In 1818, when about twenty-five years of age, Batfcicy represented his tribe at the treaty at Edwardsville. By this treaty, which is signed by representatives from all the five tribes comprising the Illinois or IlUni nation of Indians, viz, the Peorias, Easkaskias, Mitchigamias, Cahokias and Tamaoris, it appears that for a period of years anterior to that time the Peorias had lived, and were then living, separate and apart from the other tribes named. Treaties with the Indian Tribes, etc., p. 247, government edition, 1837. By this treaty the several tribes named ceded to the United States the residue of their lands in IlUnois. For nearly thirty years was Baptiste Peoria in the service of the United States. In 1867 Peoria became th(f chief of the consolidated tribes of the Miamis and Illinois, and went with them to their new reservation in the! northeast corner of the Indian Territory, where he died on the 13th of September, 1873, aged eighty years. Some years before his death he married Mary Baptiste, the widow of Christmas Dagney, who, as before stated, still survives. I am indebted to this lady for copies of the " Western Spirit," a newspaper published at Paola, and the "Fort Scott Monitor," containing obituary notices and biographical sketches of her late husband, from which this notice of Baptiste Peoria has been summarized. Baptiste may be said to be "the last of the Peorias." He made a manly and persistent effort to save the fragment /of the Illinois and Miamis, and by precepts and example tried to encourage them to adopt the ways of civilized Ufe. CHAPTEE XV. THE POTTAW ATOMIES. When tlie Jesuits were extending their missions westward of Quebec they found a tribe of Indians, called Ottawas, living upon a river of Canada, to which the name of Ottawa was given. After the dispersion of the Hurons by the Iroquois, in 1649, the Ottawas, to the number of one thousand, joined five hundred of the discom- fited Hurons, and with them retired to the southwestern shore of Lake Superior.* The fugitives were followed by the missionaries, who established among them the Mission of the Holy Ghost, at La Pointe, already mentioned. Shortly after the establishment of the mission the Jesuits made an enumeration of the western Algonquin tribes, in which all are mentioned except the Ojibbeways and Pian- keshaws. The nation which dwelt south of the mission, classified as speaking the piire Algonquin, is uniformly called Ottawas, and the Ojibbeways, by whom they were surrounded, were never once noticed by that name. Hence it is certain that at that early day the Jesuits considered the Ottawas and Ojibbeways as one people, f In close consanguinity with the Ottawas and Ojibbeways were the Pottawatomies, between whom there was only a slight dialectical difierence in language, while the manners and customs prevailing in the three tribes were almost identical.:]; This view was again re- asserted by Mr. Gallatin: "Although it must be admitted that the Algonquins, the Ojibbeways, the Ottawas and the Pottawatomies speak different dialects, these are so nearly allied that they may be considered rather as dialects of the same, than as distinct languages."! This conclusion of Mr. Gallatin was arrived at after a scientific and analytical comparison of the languages of the tribes mentioned. In confirmation of the above statement we have the speeches of three Indian chiefs at Chicago in the month of August, 1821. Dur- ing the progress of the treaty, Keewaygooshkum, a chief of the first authority among the Ottawas, stated that "the Chippewas, the Pot- * Jesuit Relations for 1666. t Albert Gallatin's Synopsis of the Indian Tribes, p. 27. j Jesuit Relations. § Synopsis of the Indian Tribes, p. 39. 137 138 HISTOKIC NOTES Olf THE STORTHWEST. tawatomies and the Ottawas were originally one nation. We sepa- rated from each other near MichUimackinac. We were related by the ties of blood, language and interest, but in the course of a long time these things have been forgotten," etc. At the conclusion of this speech, Mich-el, an aged chief of the Chippewas, said : "My Brethren, — I am about to speak a few words. I know you expect it. Be silent, therefore, that the words of an old man may be heard. "My Brethren, — You have heard the man who has just spoken. We are all descended from the same stock, — the Pottawatomies, the Chippeways and the Ottawas. We consider ourselves as one. Why should we not always act in concert? " Metea, the most powerful of the Pottawatomie chieftains, in his speech made this statement: "Brothers, Chippeways and Ottawas, — we consider ourselves as one people, which you know, as also our father* here, who has trav- eled over our country. " Mr. Schoolcraft, in commenting on the above statements, re- marks : "This testimony of a common origin derives additional weight from the general resemblance of these tribes in person, man- ners, customs and dress, but above all by their having one council- fire and speaking one language. Still there are obvious characteris- tics which will induce an observer, after a general acquaintance, to pronounce the Pottawatomies tall, fierce, haughty ; the Ottawas short, thick-set, good-natured, industrious ; the Chippeways warlike, daring, etc. But the general lineaments, or, to borrow a phrase from natural history, the suite features, are identical, f The first mention that we have of the Pottawatomies is in the Jesuit Relations for the years 1639-40. They are then mentioned as dwelling beyond the Eiver St. Lawrence, and to the north of the great lake of the Hurons. At this period it is very likely that the Pottawatomies had their homes both north of Lake Huron and south of it, in the northern part of the present State of Michigan. Twenty-six or seven years after this date the country of the Potta- watomies is described as being "about the Lake of the Ilimouek.":]: They were mentioned as being " a warlike people, hunters and fish- ers. Their country is very good for Indian corn, of which they plant fields, and to which they willingly retire to avoid the famine that is too common in these quarters. They are in the highest de- gree idolaters, attached to ridiculous fables and devoted to polygamy. * Lewis Cass. f Schoolcraft's Central Mississippi Valley, pp. 357, 360, 368. X Lake Michigan. THE POTTAW ATOMIES. 139 We have seen them here* to the number of three hundred men, all capable of bearing arms. Of all the people that I have associated with in these countries, they are the most docile and the most affectionate toward the French. Their wives and daughters are more reserved than those of other nations. They have a species of civility among them, and make it apparent to strangers, which is very rare among our barbarians, "t In 1670 the Pottawatomies had collected at the islands at the mouth of Green Bay which have taken their name from this tribe. Father Claude Dablon, in a letter concerning the mission of St. Francis Xavier, which was located on Green Bay, in speaking of this tribe, remarks that ' ' the Pouteouatami, the Ousaki, and those of the Forks, also dwell here, but as strangers, the fear of the Iro- quois having driven them from their lands, which are between the Lake of the Hurons and that of the Illinois. ":t In 1721, says Charlevoix, "the Poutewatamies possessed only one of the small islands at the mouth of Green Bay, but had two other villages, one on the St. Joseph and the other at the Nar- rows."§ Driven out of the peninsula between lakes Huron and Michigan, the Pottawatomies took up their abode on the Bay de Noquet, and other islands near the entrance of Green-Bay. From these islands they advanced southward along the west shore of Lake Michigan. Extracts taken from Hennepin's Narrative of La Salle's Voyage mention the fact that the year previous to La Salle's coming west- ward (1678), he had sent out a party of traders in advance, who had bartered successfully with the Pottawatomies upon the islands, named, and who were anxiously waiting for La Salle at the time of his arrival in the Griffin. Hennepin further states that La Salle's party bartered with the Pottawatomies at the villages they passed on the voyage southward. From this time forward the Pottawatomies steadily moved south- ward. "When La Salle reached the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan there were no Pottawatomies in that vicinity. Shortly after this date, however, they had a village on the south bank of this stream, near the present city of Niles, Michigan. On the northern bank was a village of Miamis. The Mission of St. Joseph was here established and in successful operation prior to 1711, from which fact, with other incidental circumstances, it has been inferred that * La Pointe. t Jesuit Relations, 1670-71. t Jesuit Relations, 1666-7. § Detroit. 14,0 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. the Pottawatomies, as well as the mission, were on the St. Joseph as early as the year 1700.* Father Charlevoix fixes the location of both the mission and the military post as being at the same place beyond a doubt. " It was eight days yesterday since I arrived at this post, where we have a mission, and where there is a commandant with a small garrison. The commandant's house, which is a very sorry one, is called the fort, from its being surrounded by an indifferent palisado, which is pretty near the case in all the rest, except Forts Chambly and Cata- rocony, which are real fortresses. We have here two villages of Indians, one of Miamis and the other of Pottawatomies, both of them mostly Christians ; but as they have been for a long time with- out any pastors, the missionary who has lately been sent them will have no small difficulty in bringing them back to the exercise of their religion. " t The authorities for locating the old mission and fort of St. Joseph near Niles are Charlevoix, Prof. Keating and the Eev. Isaac Mo- Coy. Commenting on the remains of the old villages upon the St. Joseph Eiver at the time Long's expedition passed that way, in 1823, the compiler states that "the prairies, woodland and river were rendered more picturesque by the ruins of Strawberry, Eum and St. Joseph's villages, formerly the residence of the Indians or of the first French settlers. It was curious to trace the diff"erence in the remains of the habitations of the red and white man in the midst of this distant solitude. While the untenanted cabin of the * Some confusion has arisen from a confounding of the Mission of St. Joseph and Fort St. Joseph with the Fort Miamis. The two were distinct, some miles apart, and erected at diiferent dates. It is plain, from the accounts given by Hennepin, Membre and LaHontan, that Fort Miamis was located on Lake Michigan, at the mouth of the St. Joseph. It is equally clear that the Mission of St. Joseph and Fort St. Joseph were some miles up the St. Joseph River, and a few miles below the "portage of the Kankakee " at South Bend. Father Charlevoix, in his letter of the 16th of August, 1721, — after having in a previous letter referred to his reaching the St. Joseph and going up it toward the fort, — says: "We afterward sailed up twenty leagues before we reached the fort." Vol. 2, p. 94. Again, in a subsequent letter (p. 184): " I de- parted yesterday from the Fort of the River St. Joseph and sailed up that nver about six leagues. I went ashore on the right and walked a league and a quarter, first along the water side and afterward across a field 'in an immense meadow, entirely covered with copses of wood." And in the next paragraph, on the same page, follows his description of the sources of the Kankakee, quoted in this work on page 77. Here, then, we have the position of Fort St. Joseph and the mission of that name and the two villages of the Pottawatomies and the Miamis, on the St. Joseph River, six leagues helow South Bend . In Dr. Shea's Catholic Missions, page 423, it is stated that ' ' La SaUe, on his way to the Mississippi, had built a temporary fort on the St. Joseph, not fsu: from the portage leading to the The-a-ki-ke ; and Mr. Charles R. Brown, in his Missions, Forts and Trading Posts of the Northwest, p. 14, says that "Fort Miamis, built at the mouth of the St. Joseph's River by La SaUe, was afterward called St. Joseph, to distinguish it from (Fort) Miamis, on the Maumee." In this instance neither of these writers follow the text of established authorities. t Charlevoix' Narrative Journal, pp. 93, 94. ST. JOSEPH. 141 Indian presented in its neighborhood but the remains of an old cornfield overgrown with weeds, the rude hut of the Frenchman was surrounded with vines, and with the remains of his former garden- ing exertions. The asparagus, the pea vine and the woodbine still grow about it, as though in defiance of the revolutions which have dispersed those who planted them here. The very names of the villages mark the difference between their former tenants. Those of the Indians were designated by the name of the fruit which grew abundantly on the spot or of the object which they coveted most, while the French missionary has placed his village under the patron- age of the tutelar saint in whom he reposed his utmost confidence."* The asparagus, the pea-vine and the woodbine preserved the identity of the spot against the encroachments of the returning for- ests until 1822, when Isaac McCoy established among the Pottawat- omies the Baptist mission called Carey, out of respect for the Rev, Mr. Carey, a missionary of the same church in Hindostan. "It is said that the Pottawatomies themselves selected this spot for Carey's mission, it being the site of their old village. This must have been very populous, as the remains of corn-hills are very visible at this time, and are said to extend over a thousand acres. The village was finally abandoned about fifty years ago (1773), but there are a few of the oldest of the nation who still recollect the sites of their respective huts. They are said to frequently visit the establishment and to trace with deep feeling a spot which is endeared to them." f On a cold winter night in 1833 a traveler was ferried over the' St. Joseph at the then straggling village of Niles. " Ascending the bank, a beautiful plain with a clump of trees here and there upon its surface opened to his view. The establishment of Carey's mission, a long, low, white building, could be distinguished afar off faintly in the moonlight, while several winter lodges of. the Pottawatomies were plainly visible over the plain." \ Concerning the Pottawatomie village near Detroit, and also some of the customs peculiar to the tribe, we have the following account. It was written in 1718 : § "The fort of Detroit is south of the river. The village of the Pottawatomies adjoins the fort ; they lodge partly under Apaquois, || * Long's Second Expedition, vol. 1, pp. 147, 148. t Long's Second Expedition, vol. 1, p. 153, McCoy's History of Baptist Indian Mis- sions. t Hoffinan's Winter in the West, vol. 1, p. 235. § Memoir on the Indians between Lake Erie and the Mississippi. Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 887. I Apaquois, matting made of flags or rushes; from opee, a leaf, and wiggwoiam, a hut. They cover their huts with mats made of rushes platted. Carver's Travels. 142 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. ■whicli are made of mat-grass. The women do all the work. The men belonging to that nation are well clothed, like our domiciliated Indians at Montreal. Their entire occupation is hunting and dress ; they make use of a great deal of vermilion, and in winter wear buffalo robes richly painted, and in summer either blue or red cloth. They play a good deal at La Crosse in summer, twenty or more on each side. Their bat is a sort of a little racket, and the baU with which they play is made of very heavy wood, somewhat larger than the balls used at tennis. "When playing they are entirely naked, except a breech cloth and moccasins on their feet. Their body is completely painted with all sorts of colors. Some, with white clay, trace white lace on their bodies, as if on all the seams of a coat, and at a distance it would be apt to be taken for silver lace. They play very deep and often. The bets sometimes amount to more than eight hundred livres. They set up two poles, and commence the game from the center ; one party propels the ball from one side and the others from the opposite, and whichever reaches the goal wins. This is fine recreation and worth seeing. They often play village against village, the Poux* against the Ottawas or Hurons, and lay heavy stakes. Sometimes Frenchmen join in the game with them. The women cultivate Indian corn, beans, peas, squashes and melons, which come up very fine. The women and girls dance at night ; adorn themselves considerably, grease their hair, put on a white shift, paint their cheeks with vermilion, and wear whatever wampum they possess, and are very tidy in their way. They dance to the sound of the drum and sisiquoi, which is a sort of gourd con- taining some grains of shot. Four or five young men sing and beat time with the drum and sisiquoi, and the women keep time and do ■ not lose a step. It is very entertaining, and lasts almost the entire night. The old men often dance the Medicine, f They resemble a set of demons ; and all this takes place during the night. The young men often dance in a circle and strike posts. It is then they recount their achievements and dance, at the same time, the war dance ; and whenever they act thus they are highly ornamented. It is altogether very curious. They often perform these things for tobacco. "When they go hunting, which is every fall, they carry their apaquois with them, to hut under at night. Everybody follows, * The Pottawatomies were sometimes known by the contraction Poux. La Hontan uses this name, and erroneously confounds them with the Puans or Winnebagoes. In givmg the coat-of-arms of the Pottawatomies, representing a dog crouched in the grass, he says: "They were called Puants." Vol. 3, p. 84. ■ t Medicine dance. ORIGIN OF POTTAWATOMIE. , 143 men, women and children. They winter in the forest and return in the spring." The Pottawatomies swarmed from their prolific hives about the islands of Mackinaw, and spread themselves over portions of "Wis- consin, and eastward to their ancient homes in Michigan. At a later day they extended themselves upon the territory of the ancient Illinois, covering a large portion of the state. From the St. Joseph Eiver and Detroit their bands moved southward over that part of Indiana north and west of the "Wabash, and thence down that stream. They wer.e a populous horde of hardy children of the forests, of great stamina, and their constitutions were hardened by the rigorous climate of the northern lakes. Among the old French writers the orthography of the word Pottawatomies varied to suit the taste of the writer. We give some of the forms : Poutouatimi,* Pouteotatamis,f Poutouatamies, :{: Pou- tewatamis,§ Pautawattamies, Puttewatamies, Pottowottamies and Pottawattamies. || The tribe was divided into four clans, the Golden Carp, the Frog, the Crab, and the Tortoise. T" The nation was not like the Illinois and Miamis, divided into separate tribes, but the diiferent bands would separate or unite according to the scarcity or abundance of game. The word Pottawatomie signifies, in their own language, we are making a fire, for the origin of which they have the following tradi- tion: " It is said that a Miami, having wandered out from his cabin, met three Indians whose language was unintelligible to him; by signs and motions he invited them to follow him to his cabin, where they were hospitably entertained, and where they remained until after dark. During the night two of the strange Indians stole from the hut, while their comrade and host were asleep ; they took a few embers from the cabin, and, placing these near the door of the h^^t, they made a fire, which, being afterward seen by the Miami and remaining guest, was understood to imply a council fire in token of peace between the two nations. From this circumstance the Miami called them in his language Wa-ho-na-ha, or the fire-makers, which, being translated into the language of the three guests, produced the term by which their nation has ever since been distinguished." After this the Miamis termed the Pottawatomies their younger brothers ; but afterward, in a council, this was changed, from the * Jesuit Relations. § Charlevoix. tFather Membre. fParis Documents. iJoutel's Journal. i[ Enumeration of the Indian tribes, the Warriors and Armorial Bearings of each Nation, made in 1736. Published in Documentary History of New York. 144 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. circumstance that they resided farther to the west ; " as those nations which reside to the west of others are deemed more ancient."* The Pottawatomies were unswerving in their adherence to the French, when the latter had possession of the boundless Northwest. In 1712, when a large force of Mascoutins and Foxes besieged De- troit, they were conspicuous for their fidelity. They rallied the other tribes to the assistance of the French, and notified the besieged garrison to hold out against their enemies until their arrival. Mah- is-ahie, the war chief of the Pottawatomies, sent word through Mr. de Vincennes, "just arrived from the Miami country, that he would soon be at Detroit with six hundred of his warriors to aid the French and eat those miserable nations who had troubled all the country." The commandant, M. du Buisson, was gratified when he ascended a bastion, and looking toward the forest saw the army of the nations issuing from it ; the Pottawatomies, the Illinois, the Missouris, the Ottawas, the Sacs and the Menominees were there, armed and painted in all the glory of war. Detroit never saw such a collection. "My Father," says the chief to the commandant, "I speak to you on the part of all the nations, your children who are before you. What you did last year in drawing their flesh from the fire, which the Ou- tagamies (Foxes) were about to roast and eat, demands we should bring you our bodies to make you the master of them. "We do not fear death, whenever it is necessary to die for you. "We have only to request that you pray the father of all nations to have pity on our women and our children, in case we lose our lives for you. "We beg you throw a blade of grass upon our bones to protect them from the flies. You see, my father, that we have left our villages, our women and children to hasten to join you. Have pity on us ; give us some- thing to eat and a little tobacco to smoke. "We have come a long ways and are destitute of everything. Give us powder and balls to fight with you." i Makisabie, the Pottawatomie, said to the Foxes and Mascoutines: ""Wicked nations that you are, you hope to frighten us by all the red color which you exhibit in your village. Learn that if the earth is covered with blood, it will be with yours. You talk to us of the English, they are the cause of your destruction, because you have listened to their bad council. . . . The English, who are cowards, only defend themselves by killing men by that wicked strong drink, which has caused so many men to die after drinking it. Thus we shall see what will happen to you for listening to them." f -Long's Expedition to the Sources of the St. Peter's River, vol. 1, pp. 91. 92 93 T Ihe extracts we have quoted are taken from the official report of Du Buisson, WARS AGAINST THE WHITES. ' 145 The Pottawatdmies sustained their alliance with the French con- tinuously to the time of the overthrow of their power in the north-, west. They then aided their kinsman, Pontiac, in his attempt to recover the same territory from the British. They fought on the side of the British against the Americans throughout the war of the revolution, and their war parties made destructive and frequent raids upon the line of pioneer settlements in Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Ohio and Indiana. In the war of 1812 they were again ranged on the side of the British, with their Woody hands lifted alike against the men, women and children of "the States." In the programme of Pontiac' s war the capture of Post St.. Joseph, on the St. Joseph's river of Lake Michigan, was assigned to the Pottawatomies, which was effected as will be hereafter narrated. It was also the Pottawatomies who perpetrated the massacre at Chicago on the 15th day of August, 1812. Bands of this tribe, from their villages on the St. Joseph, the Kankakee and the Illinois rivers, whose numbers were augmented by the appearance of Metea with his warriors, from their village westward of Fort Wayne, fell upon the forces of Captain Heald, and the defenseless women and chil- dren retreating with him after the surrender of Fort Dearborn, and murdered or made prisoners of them all. Metea was a conspicuous leader in this horrible aifair. * Eobert Dixon, the British trader sent out among the Indians, during the war of 1812 to raise recruits for Proctor and Tecumseh, gathered in the neighborhood of Chicago,' which after the massacre was his place of general rendezvous, nearly one thousand warriors, of as wild and cruel savages as ever disgraced the human race. They were the most worthless and abandoned desperadoes whom Dixon had been enabled to collect from among all the tribes he had visited. These accomplices of the British were to be let loose upon the re- mote settlements under the leadership of the Pottawatomie chief, MaA-pock, or Mai-po, a monster in human form, who distinguished himself with a girdle sewed full of human scalps, which he wore around his waist, and strings of bear's claws and bills of owls and hawks around his ankles, worn as trophies of his power in arms and as a terror to his enemies, f . relating to the siege of Detroit. The manuscript copy of it was obtained from the archives at Paris, by Gen. Cass, when minister to France, and is, published at length in volume III of the Histo^ of Wisconsin, compiled by thfe direction of the legislatare of that state by William R. Smith, President of the State Historical Society ; a work of very great value, not only, to the State of Wisconsin but to the entire Northwest, for the amount of reliable historical information it contains. * HaU and McKenney's History of the Indian Tribes of North America, vol. 2, pp. 59, 60. t McAfee's History of the Late War, pp. 297, 298. ■ 10 146 HISTORIC NOTES OK THE NORTHWEST. Their manners, like their dialect, were rough and barbarous as compared with other Algonquin tribes. The;^ were not the civil, modest people, an exceptional and christianized band of whom the Jesuits before quoted drew a flattering description. "It is a fact that for many years the current of emigration as to the tribes east of the Mississippi has been from the north to the south. This was owing to two causes : the diminution of those animals from which the Indians derive their support, and the pressure of the two great tribes, — the Ojibbeways and the Sioux, — to the north and west. So long ago as 1795, at the treaty of Greenville, the Potta- watomies notified the Miamis that they intended to settle upon the Wabash. They made no pretensions to the country, and the only excuse for the intended aggression was that they were tired of eating fish and wanted meaV* And come they did. They bore down upon their less populous neighbors, the Miamis, and occupied a large portion of their territory, impudently and by sheer force of numbers, rather than by force of arms. They established numerous villages upon the north and west bank of the Wabash and its tributaries flowing in from that side of the stream above the Vermilion. They, with the Sacs, Foxes and Kickapoos, drove the Illinois into the vil- lages about Kaskaskia, and portioned the conquested territory among themselves. By other tribes they were called squatters, who justly claimed that the Pottawatomies never had any land of their own, and were mere intruders upon the prior rights of others. They were foremost at all treaties where lands were to be ceded, and were clam- orous for a lion's share of presents and annuities, particularly where these last were the price given for the sale of others' lands rather than their own.f Between the years 1789 and 1837 the Pottawato- mies, by themselves, or in connection with other tribes, made no less than thirty-eight treaties with the United States, all of which, — excepting two or three which were treaties of peace only, — were for cessions of lands claimed wholly by the Pottawatomies, or in com- mon -with other tribes. These cessions embraced territory extending from the Mississippi eastward to Cleveland, Ohio, and reaching over the entire valleys of the Illinois, the Wabash, the Maumee and their tributaries. :j; They also had villages upon the Kankakee and Illinois rivers. Among them we name Minemaung., or Yellow Head, situated a * Official letter to the Secretary of War, dated March 22, 1814. t Schoolcraft's Central Mississippi Valley, p. 358. X Treaties between the United States and fiie several Indian tribes, from 1778 to 1837: Washington, D.C., 1837. THEIR AaLLAGES. 147 few miles north of Momence, at a point of timber still known as Yellow Head Point ; She-mar-gar, or tlie Soldier's Village, at the mouth of Soldier Creek, that runs through Kankakee City, and the village of " Little Rock " ot Shaw-waw-nas-see, at the mouth of Hock Creek, a few miles below Kankakee City.* Besides these, the Pot- tawatomies had villages farther down the Illinois, particularly the great town of Como, Gumo, or Gumbo as the pioneers called it, at the upper end of Peoria Lake. They had other towns on the Milwaukee Eiver, Wisconsin. On the St. Joseph, near Mies, was the village of T