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Cornell University 
 Library 
 
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 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924015402211 
 
HOUSE HINTS 
 
 
 ir- , 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 describing every essential detail 
 pertaining to site, location, ar- 
 rangements, construction, plaster- 
 ing, heating, plumbing, lighting, 
 decorating and furnishing of the 
 house ^ .^ ji ji ^ 
 
 BY C. £. SCH£RM£RHORN 
 
 SECOND EDITION 
 
 Copyri^t 1906. Houte Hints Fnblithin^ Co. 
 
 HOUSE HINTS j^SS^Selpgia'?'""'"""' 
 
 T> 
 
INDEX 
 
 Acetylene, . . 
 Architect, The, . 
 
 Barrel Swing 
 
 Bath-Room F'lirnishingg, . . . 
 
 Beamed Ceilings, 
 
 Bed- Rooms, ..;...,. 
 
 Bells . 
 
 Boiler and Pipe Coverings, . . 
 Boilers, Steam and Hot- Water, 
 Book-CaseS) 
 
 Page* 
 . 36 
 
 6 
 
 Casement Windows, . . . 
 
 Cellar. The 
 
 Cement Wall-Plasters, . 
 Cesspools, .... 
 
 Chimneys, 
 
 Closets, 
 
 Clothes- Dryers 
 
 Composition Ornament, . . 
 Concrete Building, . 
 Corner-Beads, . . . 
 
 Deii, The, 
 
 Dining-Room, The, . . . . 
 
 Doors and Windows, . . 
 
 Draperies, 
 
 Drawing Room or Parlor, The, 
 
 Slectric Gas Lighting, . 
 Electric Wiring, . . . . 
 Elevators, Automatic, . 
 
 Engines, 
 
 Environments. . . 
 Exposure, . . . 
 Exterior, 
 
 Filters 
 
 Fireplaces 
 
 Fire Protection, 
 
 Floor Coverings, . . 
 Flooring, 
 
 " Hardwood, . . 
 
 " Parquetry, . . 
 
 Framing, 
 
 Fuel Economizers, 
 
 Furnishing, 
 
 Garbage, Disposal of, . . 
 
 Garden Pottery, 
 
 GaS'IyOgs and Gas-Grates, . 
 Gas-Plants, Domestic, 
 
 Gas-Piping, . 
 
 Glass, .... ... 
 
 Glazing, 
 
 Grading and Sward, . . . 
 Gutters and Conductors, . . . 
 
 Hall, The, 
 
 Hardware, ... 
 
 Heating, Steam, 
 
 " Vapor, ... 
 
 " Hot-Water 
 
 '* Vacuum, . . 
 
 Hot-Air, 
 
 Heat Regulators, Automatic, 
 House, The, 
 
 In General, . . 
 Kitchen, The, 
 
 Lath, Wood, 
 
 " Wire, 
 
 " Expanded Metal, 
 
 Library, The, 
 
 Lighting, Artificial 
 
 Lightning-conductors, 
 
 Location of Lights, Switches, etc., 
 Loss of Heat, 
 
 35 
 31 
 30 
 47 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 27 
 
 39 
 27 
 20 
 42 
 27 
 14 
 27 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Millwork. . 19 
 
 Mineral Wool 43 
 
 Mouldings, . . 20 
 
 National Electric Code, 34 
 
 Natural Finish, 24 
 
 Oriental Rugs, . . 48 
 
 Painting, 23 
 
 Pantry Doors, Revolving, . . 11 
 
 Pictures and Bric-a-Brac 47 
 
 Pipes, Supply, ... 41 
 
 " Soil, 41 
 
 Plan, The, 7 
 
 Plastering, . . 26 
 
 Plumbing, . . 40 
 
 Porch, The 7 
 
 Pressure Tanks, . . 39 
 
 Radiators, ... ... 
 
 Wall, 
 
 " Sheet Metal, . ... 
 
 Rams, 
 
 Ranges, 
 
 Reasons for Employing an Architect, . 
 Refrigerators, . . 
 
 Renting,- 
 
 Roof-Flanges, .... 
 
 Roof, The, 
 
 Rooms, 
 
 Sand, 
 
 Sand-Lime Brick, 
 
 Sash-Cord, . 
 
 Sash-Pulleys, 
 
 Sash Weights 
 
 Self Lighting Mantels, .... 
 Sheath in g-Papers, .... 
 
 Shingles, 
 
 Metal, 
 
 Shutters, Blinds, Shades and Awnings, 
 
 Shutter-Workers 
 
 Site, 
 
 Slag and Gravel Roofing, . . 
 
 Slate, 
 
 Saow-Guards, 
 
 Specifications and Estimates, 
 
 Stairs, ■ . 
 
 Stone and Brickwork. . 
 Stove-Heated Houses, 
 Structure, The, . 
 Suburbs, . ... 
 
 Switches, . . ... 
 
 31 
 31 
 31 
 36 
 33 
 6 
 42 
 49 
 41 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 44 
 44 
 36 
 15 
 
 19 
 
 45 
 3 
 
 23 
 8 
 10 
 
 4 
 34 
 
 Telephones, . . 35 
 
 Tile, Sanitary 17 
 
 " Imitation, . 17 
 
 " Roofing, 22 
 
 Tiling, Floor and Wall 17 
 
 " Cut-Class, Mosaic, 17 
 
 " Rubber, 18 
 
 Tin 21 
 
 Trees and Shrubbery, 4 
 
 Walks, Paths and Driveways, 5 
 
 Wall-Coverings, 46 
 
 Wall-Papers and Papering, 45 
 
 Warming the House, 29 
 
 Waste-Pipes and Traps . . 41 
 
 Water- Heaters, Instantaneous, 33 
 
 Water-Lifts, 37 
 
 Water-supply, Private, 36 
 
 Water-Tanks and Tank-Towers, ... 38 
 
 Weather-strips, Metal, 19 
 
 Wind-Mills, 37 
 
 Window Ventilation, . . 19 
 
 Wire-Screens ig 
 
In General The building or selection of a house is an undertaking 
 that calls for the widest knowledge and the utmost 
 patience. The impatient man has no business to undertake the erec- 
 tion of a house for his own use, and he is hardly less happy in under- 
 taking it for investment. In the former case he will want to move in 
 at once ; in the latter case he will inevitably want at once to begin to 
 draw interest on the cash invested in the enterprise. Patience is an 
 indispensable commodity in house building. Many of the annoyances 
 that attend house building would be avoided if the knowledge acquired 
 during the process had been possessed in the beginning, and the house 
 builder should, therefore, familiarize himself with as much as possible 
 that concerns the erection of houses before he starts. Bear in mind that, 
 in building enterprises, the unexpected is bound to happen, and the house 
 that exists in the mind's eye is rarely embodied and the ideal Seldom 
 realized. 
 
 Environment Deliberate carefully over a locality, consider the 
 tax rates and assessments, also the proximity of 
 the school, church, post office, express office, fire engine housg, , store, 
 railroad station, trolley, water supply and drainage. 
 
 3ite The site is an important factor in house designing which must 
 never be ignored. Select a commanding position if possible, a 
 dry locality in preference to low ground. Avoid filled in or made 
 ground, because of the increased cost of the foundations. Such ground 
 demands a spread of the footings, or, necessitates the carrying of exca- 
 yations and walls below the fill to a solid bed. If the site is level and 
 well drained, little needs to be done in the way of grading. The top 
 soil is valuable, and should be carefully removed to one side, tO;be after- 
 wards used for the support of grass or other vegetation. More mistakes 
 are made in selecting sites ..than in anything else ; yet there are no defi- 
 nite rules that will apply tp the proper selection of a site for thp, house. 
 A successful house is largely successful because its design is especially 
 fitted to the particular site and to none other. Do not locate the house 
 exactly in the centre of a lot, nor close to the front, of it. If the site 
 is on the side of a hill, build wide rather than deep. Establish the 
 finished grade a little above the natural grade, so as to provide a. slope 
 from the house in every direction. Avoid being too conventionally 
 artistic. First of all, make the grounds comfortable and convenient ; 
 then do what you can on the assthetic side. The plan and exterior de- 
 sign of any city house is based on the consideration of its relation to 
 the thoroughfare on which it fronts. The same is true not only of a 
 house occupying the entire frontage on the street, but of any city or 
 suburban house confined to a more or less arbitrary location on the lot. 
 The problem of the country house is primarily the consideration of pri- 
 vacy. The thoroughfare is recognized only as a means of access to 
 the place, and should not dominate the design of the house, its 
 location on the ground or the layout of its surroundings. The really 
 iSuccessful country or seashore house does not by any means imply an 
 elaborate structure, either in plan or design. A simple structure, well 
 designed and rightly placed, with surroundings so laid out as to take 
 the fullest advantage of the natural situation, most frequently consti- 
 
tutes the successful achievement. A cabin, bungalow or "camp" should 
 be located on the outskirts of woods, on the shore of a lake, or beside a 
 stream, and, preferably, should have an ieasterly tmltook. In addition to 
 cortsidering the approach, oiitlook, and the prevailing winds in summer 
 and winter, an ugly prospect or a disagreeable neighbor should be care- 
 ifuUy borne in mind in the selection of a site. 
 
 Suburbs The opportunities for securing a suburban home are 
 , fairly numerous. Capiial has recognized a profitable 
 field in ppenihg up tracts of ground a few miles distant from the city, 
 to lUre the domestically inclined "back to nature." The railroads and 
 ti-olleys have added to the possibilities, and there is a distinct and grow- 
 ing tendehcy on the part of young couples to live "out of town," or 
 Where they can have space, air and light for themselves and their chil- 
 dren. To-day the small house is more seriously considered than iever 
 before. In the suburbs of our great cities and of many of the smaller 
 tOVvnS, this fact is illustrated forcibly by the style of house -^hich during 
 the last dfecade has been gradually superseding the cottage of earlier 
 times. 
 
 Grading and Sward The first aim in grading should be to so 
 
 direct the surface water that it will iiot 
 Irurt toward the buildings or across the #aiks ; the second, to give the 
 land ia Smooth, rtiund'ed surface or outline. It is advisable to lay out 
 the Uttplanted portion of the lawn into as large spaces as possibte, 
 thereby enhancing the much-lo-be-desired effect of breadth. Nb trou- 
 ble should be spared in making a perfect piece of green sward. When 
 it is defeired to sbd lawtos, terraces or borders, tbo great a care cannot 
 be Exerted in securing sods, which should be taken only from places 
 khOWn to possess a variety of grasses and a minimum of weeds. Iti 
 triakirtfr a new iawn-, it is desi^-able that ail tree planting and laying out 
 of «PiiikS and roads should be first accomplished. The ground should 
 thfeii be IhOrouglily dug or plowed to thte depth of not less than ten 
 ittthes, and a liberal quantity of rich compost used. After digging Or 
 jpibwing, the ground should be Well harrowed and raked to redUce it ttJ 
 ks fine a condition as possible, and to smooth any irregularities. After 
 a Weil-baianted mixture of reliat)le re-cleahed grass seed has been so'Wn, 
 a HSUfer Should be used to "firm" the surface. The best time foV soVwhg 
 Is Itt the eatly spring or in nattfre'S natural Seed time, August. Weedfe 
 aire hatUral to all ^oil, and aiWays appear itt newly tilled or sodded 
 giroUnd, but tiie^ can be d'estroyed by fr^uertt hand pulling and cut- 
 ting. Afe laWtis require occasional feeding, the use of bone meal during 
 the spring of the year and Canada haM wood ashes in the fall are 
 redofttttiended. As it iS usually difficult to obtain a satisfactory gro\)vtli 
 of grafes under ti'ees aiid in shady places, be sUre to obtain a Special mix- 
 ture bf Seed suitable for such places. 
 
 Trees and Shrubbery The best shade tirees are the American 
 
 elm, the N'OTway maple, the sugar 
 inaple, the Oriental plane, the red oak, the pin-oak, the scarlet and the 
 white oak, the horse-chestnut and the linden. They should -be set about 
 thirty feet apart. So that they may grow into broad and lofty trees, dis- 
 
pepsing abundant shade. The Lombardy poplar is a valuable tree to be 
 used in clofie planting or screening, and the Carolina poplar for city 
 street planting. Trees that can be depended upon for producing a 
 good effect in lawn planting and grouping are the different varieties of 
 beech and birch, also the larch, hornbeam, red and white flowering dog- 
 wood, Sehwedlerii, Weir's cut-leaved and red maple, Gingko, sweet 
 gum, tulip tree and Japanese maples. Do not plant trees or large 
 shrubs close to the house ; they give a crowded feeling ; and, on gen- 
 eral principles, trees which overhang a house are not desirable. Small 
 growing shrubs may, however, be used effectively adjoining the house; 
 beautiful in, thernselves, they tend to mask the base of the house, where 
 there are usually sharp, uninteresting angles. The following are some 
 of the finest varieties of flowering shrubs to use: lilacs, sweet-scented 
 shrubs and mock oranges; purple, Thunbergii, japonica and ilicifolia 
 berberis ; assorted Deutzias, Forsythias, upright honeysuckles, hydran- 
 geas, hypericums, Mahonias, purple mist; Anthony Waterer, Thun- 
 bergii, Van Houtei and double Reevesii spiraes ; viburnums, snowberry, 
 stephanandra flexuosa, WeigeHas in variety, and the improved sorts of 
 altheas. Avoid the indiscriminate use of formal foliage or flower beds 
 on the lawn ; the patches of color should be used carefully and in proper 
 relation to the whole picture. 
 
 Walks, Paths and Driveways The slightest winding in a 
 
 driveway or path almost 
 invariably renders the site more attractive. Avoid, if possible, sharp 
 and svidden curves, also equal reverse curves, that is, curves that ex- 
 actly repeat each other. Subsidiary roads for bringing supplies to the 
 house should, of course, be minimized, and kept out of sight as much 
 as possible. Such a drive is usually far from being a necessity on a lot 
 less than seventy-five feet in width. It should be remembered, whenever 
 the question of making paths arises, that they have no attractions com- 
 parable with those of grass, flowers, shrubbery and trees. ~The widths 
 of roads and paths must necessarily depend on circumstances. A 
 small place will appear larger if walks and paths are kept toward the 
 boundaries rather than on the centre of axial lines. The service drive- 
 way should be of macadam with a top dressing of finely crushed gran- 
 ite, sufficiently roimded to carry off the surface water. The first 
 requirement of a perfect and enduring pavement is a secure, solid and 
 stable foundation with a water-freed bed having a pitch sufficient to 
 drain quickly. The trench for a cement walk should be four inches 
 wider than the wearing surface of the walk, and as deep as the total 
 thickness of the foundation, base and wearing surface. The founda- 
 tion should not be less fhan twelve inches deep, composed of broken 
 stone, cinders or screened gravel, thoroughly rammed; wetting the 
 stone, gravel or cinders secures a firmer surface. The concrete base 
 should be four inches thick, composed of one part cement, three parts 
 sand, and three parts broken stone or screened gravel. The wearing 
 surface should be one inch thick, composed of one part cement and 
 one part sand, and should be put on the base before the concrete gets 
 hard, otherwise the bond will be imperfect. Care should be exercised 
 in the final floating or finishing, so as not to overdo it. Too much 
 
working of the surface will draw the cement to the top, thus leaving 
 a thin layer of neat cement, which is liable to peel or check off. All 
 exposed edges or angles should be made round or protected with a 
 coping. The wearing surface should be protected from the direct rays 
 of the sun for at least two days after laying, and after that time freely 
 watered for a week. Marble dust or white sand mixed in the mortar for 
 the wearing surface will tend to make a light colored surface ; lamp black 
 will produce a dark surface. If possible, all cement work should be 
 discontinued at least forty-eight hours before the falling of frost. Dull 
 red bricks for walks keep their place very well when bedded in sand on 
 a compacted foundation of cinders or gravel. Filling all the joints 
 with cement adds to their smoothness and durabiltiy, and prevents grass 
 from sprouting where not wanted. Dressed slate or stone walks should 
 be set on a bed of broken stone or cinders extending below the frost 
 line or on dwarf walls; the joints should afterwards be filled with 
 cement mortar. 
 
 Garden Pottery Almost every modern suburban home has some 
 form of a garden where it is desirable to intro- 
 duce potter)', vases, benches, sun-dials, fountains, etc., either in com- 
 position stone, terra cotta or cast metal. Many artistic and appropriate 
 garden ornaments which assist materially in beautifying the grounds can 
 now be obtained for a small outlay. 
 
 Exposure in making the selection of a home see that its interior 
 arrangements bear relation to the directions of the pre- 
 vailing breezes of the summer months. The dining room should have 
 an easterly or southerly exposure, foi: the obvious reason that it must 
 necessarily be occupied at least three times a day, and should therefore 
 be the most cheerful room in the house. The kitchen should preferably 
 have a northern prospect, and be separated from the dining room by a 
 pantry or store room, not only on account of heat, but also on account 
 of cooking odors. 
 
 The Architect Select a competent architect, one of taste and 
 experience. Under no circumstances should a 
 man of any other vocation be his own arc}iitect. The man who is his 
 own architect will have a house whose mistakes will cost him more than 
 twice the fee of a competent expert. Employ a reliable man, and be 
 frank with him. It is an easy matter to look over published plans of 
 houses and adopt that which seems most suited to the ideas of the 
 owner, but if the house is to be, as it ought to be, suitably adapted to the 
 environment, an evolution of the habits and social tastes of the occu- 
 pants, in which every room has been arranged with reference to aspect, 
 to use, to physical comfort and taste, and the exterior has been shaped 
 to these requirements, the design can only be made by an architect. 
 
 Reasons for Employing an Architect Convenience and 
 
 completeness in 
 the plan are assured. Proportions and harmony will be obtained. The 
 material and construction will be carefully and intelligently specified. 
 You will be enabled to secure competitive estimates from several 
 
builders on the same basis. You will be protected in having a properly 
 worded contract, embodying the drawings and specifications. Your 
 ideas will be expressed in combination with practical experience. With- 
 out proper plans and specifications expensive changes are sure to be 
 made, and these will be far more costly than the professional charges. 
 
 Specifications and Estimates For the protection and satis- 
 faction of both owner and 
 contractors, it is of great value to have a comprehensive set of specifi-- 
 cations which incorporate and describe every required method of con- 
 struction, material, finish, detail, dimension and device not distinctly 
 shown by tRe drawings, -in such manner as to allow of no misunder- 
 standing or the substitution of inferior materials or workmanship. 
 Notwithstanding the differences that are frequently apparent between 
 estimates and actual cost, the value of estimates is very real and con- 
 siderable. Competitive estimates from reliable contractors, based on 
 complete drawings and specifications, are the guides to a proposed 
 building. They involve two essentials : first, they establish the general 
 notion of cost, and, secondly, they form a standard which, if departed 
 from in any way, means an increased cost. However well known may 
 be the integrity and ability of the builder, he cannot, in the nature of 
 things, satisfactorily accomplish both the conception and the execution 
 of a design ; its conception is for the architect, arid its execution for the 
 builder. It is advisable in awarding contracts not to divide the work 
 among sub-contractors, for the reason that any differences which may 
 arise are more easily adjusted with one responsible general contractor. 
 Do not neglect to provide for fire insurance protecting all interests, 
 during the construction of the building. A term policy allowing the 
 privilege of completion is the most satisfactory and economical. 
 
 The House Start by formulating the arrangement, proportions 
 and general "livability" of each room, not only as to 
 the room itself, but also as to its relation to each and all of the other 
 rooms in the house. By this slow process, and by sifting the various 
 schemes of arrangement, the owner will become so intimately acquainted 
 with the plans of his house, and will gradually get to so understand 
 them, as well as to imagine the appearance and relation of the rooms, 
 one to the other, that unconsciously he will be preparing himself for the 
 successful solution of the decoration and finish of the house interior; 
 meanwhile, the architect will have had abundant opportunity to give all 
 the study he may desire to the exterior of the house, as well as to the 
 treatment of each room. The result will be that the house, when it finally 
 exists, will largely escape the many small drawbacks of crude and un- 
 studied proportions that are almost inseparable from the quickly de- 
 signed and constructed dwelling. The' "cheap" house, with its tawdry 
 exterior, its poor construction, its lack of permanency, its coldness, damp- 
 ness and perhaps unsanitary conditions, is a poor place to live in, a poor 
 investment for money, and a wretched encumbrance to land. People of 
 modest means greatly outnumber those of ample wealth, and they must 
 h(^ housed in buildings adapted to their means. This does not mean 
 that you shall select a house that costs more money than you care to 
 spend, but it means that you shall select one which has had thought ap- 
 
plied in its building, and is therefore capable of becoming a financial 
 success to its owner, purchaser or renter. 
 
 Exterior Much real estate is now both undesirable and unsalable 
 
 owing to the inartistic and old-fashioned nature of the 
 buildings with which it is encumbered ; and the conservative prospective 
 builder or buyer must keep in mind the possible value of his investment 
 in case he should at any time desire to dispose of it. A building dc- 
 . signed to suit the spot where it is placed, and one that is in artistic 
 keeping with it, will always have an added value that may be readily 
 computed in dollars and cents. An artistic exterior need not cost a 
 penny more than an inartistic one. Indeed, to-day the most pleasing- 
 effects are obtained by simplicity in composition, and an actual saving 
 in expense is effected by omitting the over elaborate exterior "ginger- 
 bread" ornaments that cannot hide the bad proportions and outlines 
 of the building. In selecting a color combination for a house, due con- 
 sideration should be given to the surroundings. Avoid strong color 
 effects in a community where the houses are all painted in quiet tones. 
 If there are trees and heavy foliage about a house, the painting should 
 always be done in light shades. Where there are no trees, or the 
 house stands alone or on an eminence, darker paints should be used. 
 There is a "bareness" about the unsurrounded house that the light 
 shades intensify, but which the dark shades relieve or modify. 
 
 The Porch One of the most important adjuncts of any house is 
 the porch, but in its relation to the exterior of the 
 house it is impossible to specify any general principle, except, perhaps 
 that its size be as generous as the conditions will afford, for the reason 
 that the porch is in reality an outside room in which a large part of the 
 life of the house takes place. A porch carried entirely around the sides 
 of a house frequently proves objectionable on account of darkening the 
 first floor rooms. In order properly and eflfectively to protect the porch 
 from the burning rays of the midsummer sun, and to produce real com- 
 fort and enjoyment, use specially made dark-stained wood porch shades, 
 of a pattern permitting the breezes to enter. The sun parlor (though 
 usually only a porch enclosed with glass) is a feature of modern house 
 building, the comforts of which are worth considering. To make sure 
 of having dry steps which will not warp, use yellow pine strips three 
 inches wide, set one-eighth inch apart.. When turned porch columns 
 are required, a lock joint staved pattern should be used ; such columns 
 require no block or inside form to support the super-imposed load and 
 combine appearance with durability and strength. 
 
 The Plan Take time to think things out, as the true measure of 
 the success of a house is the success of its plans. No 
 house can by any possibility be good if it has a bad plan. The home 
 seeker may have quite definite ideas as to the general disposition of 
 the rooms, but the trained and experienced architect is alone capable 
 of giving these ideas concrete expression in the plan. A plan, to be good, 
 must be economical of space; the utmost interior area must be ob- 
 tained within the boundary walls. This economy, however, has no 
 relationship with smallness of area. Economy in planning means the 
 
best utilization of the interior area, besides convenience and directness 
 of communication. One must get about a house as well as stay within 
 it. and the plan that affords the easiest way of doing this, which brings 
 all the rooms into easy communication with each other, which differenti- 
 ates the various parts of the house, and puts each part into the best 
 relationship to the other parts, makes the nearest approach to that 
 excellence which may be termed ideal. Endeavor to provide direct 
 independent communication between the kitchen and the front door 
 and don't compel the going through a retired room to find a more public 
 one. Good planning requires careful study and wide familiarity with 
 the subject; the wants and needs of the inmates must be understood 
 and expressed in the plan. The location and size of the rooms must, 
 of course, depend on the uses to which the house will be put and the 
 characteristics of the people who expect to live in it. A home which 
 embodies simplicity, order, comfort, harmony and individuality cannot 
 be a failure. 
 
 Rooms As comfort and convenience are the essentials of a well- 
 furnished house, both being of far greater importance than 
 expense and luxury, every room in the house ought to possess character 
 and originality. Give thought to the question of what the character of 
 a room really should be, what it is to be used for, and whether the 
 decorations and furnishings carry out the idea of what we are to do in 
 it. The shape of a room has a very important bearing upon its effect 
 when finally furnished. Long, square or oval rooms each have a dis- 
 tinct quality of their own. It would be going too far to assert that one 
 shape is better than another, but it is at least certain that each shape 
 calls for a different treatment. The effect of the furnished room will 
 also be largely dependent upon its dimensions. The kind of windows to 
 be used, and their location, form other notable features that must be 
 taken into account in household furnishings. A room needs plenty of 
 light, but the position of the windows and their elevation above the floor, 
 considering the sort of window used, whether a bay, a group of lights, or 
 a single opening, will help amazingly if properly determined. Consider 
 carefully the shape of each room in relation to the wall space available 
 for the location of the bed, bureau, etc., as there are countless existing 
 examples of rooms which have been planned without any thought given 
 to their probable furnishing. 
 
 The Hall A distinguishing feature of the modern house is the 
 hall, which has become broad and ample, forming the 
 rendezvous and seat of the home life, causing the house to grow up 
 around it. This room is no longer a mere dark, dull passage, from 
 which the stairs lead to the upper floors, but should be a brilliant, 
 sunny apartment, amply lighted and furnished, without giving evidence 
 of crowding. It still contains the stairs, but these are no longer con- 
 structive only, being treated as valuable features in the decoration 
 scheme. Nothing is more appropriate for a hall or wide stair landing 
 than a good hall clock which chimes the quarters and strikes the hour, 
 on well-toned tubes, or bells. 
 
stairs Stairs are often faulty in construction by reason of having 
 too little head room, and too high a riser or distance from 
 one step to the other. There should never be less than six feet ten 
 inches between ceiling and tread, and a head room of seven feet, or 
 even eight feet, is much better. Where one flight is built directly over 
 another, the vertical distance between the two should never be less 
 than seven feet six inches in the clear, measured over the face of the 
 riser. Stair cases should not be less than three feet in width, with easy 
 treads and risers of uniform height and width, supported on three cut 
 horses. The mortising or dovetailing of the balusters into the hand- 
 rail, and tread or string, should be insisted upon instead of nailing, as 
 also the secure fastening of the wall-string to the wall. 
 
 The Drawing Room or Parlor Of all the rooms that tax 
 
 the ingenuity of the fur- 
 nisher to make pleasing, the drawing room, and its smaller counterpart, 
 the parlor or reception room, stand pre-eminent. For concentrated 
 stiffness and glaring lack of welcome, these rooms are famous. As 
 the drawing room holds all the formal intercourse which the house 
 enjoys with the outer world, it is in consequence rightly more con- 
 ventional than the other rooms. The room should show a gracious, 
 well-bred welcome to each guest, warm but not effusive, unaffected 
 and full of courteous restraint, yet never sacrificing comfort for the 
 purpose of effect. 
 
 The Dining Room In the room where we dine and meet with 
 
 the others of our most intimate world, all 
 adornments and furniture should be of a nature to add to the comfort 
 and pleasure of the diner a spirit of warmth, hospitality and good cheer. 
 Both light and air are essential in the keynote room of the house, 
 which, if possible, should have an easterly or southerly exposure. 
 
 The Library Each house, whether rich or poor, should have its 
 libra,ry, as the "sitting room" of more simple times 
 has been transformed and then transferred into a place among the 
 books, papers and the magazines. The library has become the most 
 unconventional, free-and-easy room beneath the roof — ^the only one 
 whose door is always open, and the one in which the family life is best 
 developed. A western or southern exposure is to be recommended. 
 This is the hearth. If but one fireplace be allowed in all the house, here 
 it must be. The furnishing and coloring of the room should be both 
 strong and rich. Of all rooms this is the one for easy chairs, a couch 
 with ample supply of cushions, a large and serviceable table for current 
 books and magazines, a desk and a lamp. 
 
 The Den This room is usually small and, being of a modern origin, 
 has no traditions to fulfill as to its furnishing or dec- 
 orations, and is open to any agreeable invention which may occur to 
 the individual experimenter. Turkish, Indian and Dutch ideas lend 
 themselves readily to the decoration of the den. The exposure of this 
 room is quite immaterial, as its occupancy is principally only after sun- 
 set. 
 
II 
 
 Bed Rooms Here, as everywhere, there should be a harmonious 
 relationship between the effects produced and the 
 uses and comforts of the room. The bed room should be quiet, sweet, 
 clean, cheerful, and faced to catch the best view and light. Individuality 
 is clearly to be expressed here better than elsewhere and should be al- 
 lowed full play. If possible, the bedstead should not face a window with 
 an easterly exp(5sure, or be located in a draft, or exposed to view from 
 the hall. 
 
 The Kitchen The modern kitchen is not as large as that of 
 our grandmothers, and every foot of space should 
 be utilized to lighten the burdens of the housewife. The plumbing 
 should be open, with no spot where dust can accumulate. Kitchen 
 walls, floor and ceiling should be tiled, painted, or covered with some 
 sanitary, readily-cleaned material. The sink should be provided with 
 a hinged or removable dripboard. The range boiler, fitted with a 
 safety valve, should be set on a galvanized iron stand. The old- 
 fashioned dresser has been properly replaced by a modern removable 
 kitchen cabinet containing a self-cleaning flour bin with sifter attach- 
 ment, a sugar bin, a spice cabinet, and, in fact, a compartment for 
 everything needed in kitchen work. It is also desirable to provide a 
 store closet, and a place for storing the extra dining room table leaves. 
 The cooking apparatus, located under a hood connected with a separate 
 flue, should be placed not only where the cook will have a good light 
 on her work, but also where she will have the relief and the diversion of 
 a change of scene afforded by a near-by window. 
 
 Revolving Pantry Doors A device in the shape of a door 
 
 revolving in a circular enclosure 
 affords quick, easy service between kitchen and pantry or pantry and 
 dining room without noise or the possibility of the communication of 
 the odors of the kitchen. 
 
 Barrel 5wing For making barrels conveniently accessible in 
 the pantry, kitchen or store-room, it is advisable 
 to provide a simple pattern of barrel swing which is easily installed and 
 adjustable to swing any barrel. 
 
 The structure The material of which the house is built bears 
 an essential relationship to its aesthetic effect. 
 By modern methods, heating appliances have been so perfected that the 
 value of the house as a shelter is no longer dependent upon the material 
 used in its construction. Bargains in ornaments are very good things to 
 let alone. The secret of all good building, of all sound construction, of 
 all good ornament, "that it be logical," "a place for everything and every- 
 thing in its place," is as true of good building as it is of good house- 
 keeping. Ornament only ornaments when it has a direct relationship to 
 the design, and the best ornament is that which has a structural purpose 
 as well as an ornamental character. Every part of the structure must 
 bear a logical relationship to every other part. A house is built to last, 
 and its value as an investment is often dependent upon its durability; 
 repairs are annoying and expensive. A slightly increased first cost for 
 
good materials and sound construction means later economy in repairs. 
 If one desires a particular kind of house, one must be content with the 
 material in which that style has its best and most characteristic illustra- 
 tion, and must see to it that the interior details are in complete harmony 
 with the exterior. 
 
 3a.nd As sand enters largely into the construction of houses it is 
 well to consider and explain what is meant by the expression 
 "sharp sand." It is a sand the particles of which have facets with 
 sharp edges, easily discerned by a good eye, as contrasted with the 
 smooth, rounded grains usually to be found in sand taken from the 
 beds of rivers, where continual abrasion rounds the surface. River 
 sand is seldom fit for mortar. On the sharpness of the sand grains de- 
 pends the tenacity of the mortar. The mixing of mortar is too frequently 
 intrusted to an ignorant laborer, without instruction or supervision. Sand 
 should be clean and free from loam ; it should not soil the hands when 
 rubbed in the palm. 
 
 Stone and Brickwork No part of the building is more im- 
 portant than the foundation, and 
 more cracks in the walls result from defective foundations than from 
 any other cause. At the bottom of each wall there should be a footing 
 or projecting course of either brick, stone or concrete. Portland 
 cement concrete makes the best footing. When the concrete is prop- 
 erly made and applied, it attains a strength equal to stone and, being 
 devoid of joints, it is like a continuous beam, having sufficient strength 
 to span any soft . spots that may happen to exist in the foundation. 
 Except under very light buildings, concrete footings should never be 
 less than twelve inches thick. Stone footings should be built of large 
 flat stones, of the full width of the footing, and at least six inches thick. 
 On sandy soils, brick footings may be used, provided the bottom course 
 is doubled and each upper course is laid in headers and not stepped 
 over two inches. In localities where there is frost, all outside stone 
 steps, porches, etc., should have their foundations carried below the 
 freezing line. Stone foundation walls should never be less than eigh- 
 teen inches wide, with the footing or starting course eight inches wider. 
 Walls should invariably be laid in cement mortar, each stone being 
 laid on its natural bed, and have all interstices thoroughly filled with 
 small broken stones and mortar. No wall should be laid against a bank ; 
 the line of excavations should be two inches outside of the outer line 
 of the footings, and, after the mortar has thoroughly set, should be 
 filled with clean solid material in twelve-inch layers, and well "pud- 
 dled" in place. Wherever pipes of any kind are required to pass through 
 a wall, arched openings of a suitable size should be left, or pipe sleeves 
 used. Cellar piers should always be constructed of hard burned brick 
 laid in cement mortar. In a 'frame house, the stonework should al- 
 ways be leveled up on top, and the sill (base for stud supports) set in 
 cement; this likewise applies to the roof-plate in stone or brick houses, 
 excepting that it is good practice to anchor this plate in the wall every 
 ■eight feet. Except in the dry climate of the Rocky Mountain regions all 
 outside brick and stone enclosing walls (that are not built hollow) 
 
^3 
 
 should have in every four feet of height a suitable wood strip or "metal 
 wall plug" built in the wall to receive the furring, thereby insuring an air 
 space back of the plaster. It is essential that all ' furring shall be 
 strongly secured, and put up perfectly straight and true. The com^ 
 monest kind of stonework for walls is called "rubblework." No work 
 whatever is done on the stones except to break them with a hammer. 
 If the wall is built in courses, it is designated as "coursed rubble." 
 When the stones showing on the outside face of the wall are squared, 
 the work is designated as "ashlar." Stonework which requires any 
 other tool than a hammer for dressing is called "cut work." In face 
 stonework great care should be taken to discover and reject "blast" 
 cracks or slfakes, which do not show up very distinctly at first, but in 
 time will surely cause serious leaks through the wall. The locations of 
 all door and window openings in brick or stone walls should be carefully 
 considered as to their effect on the strength of the wall. While stone 
 walls are being built all joints in the face work shoiild be well raked 
 i F i ir- ''t'-jj hi r jt nV j-intr in t h " ^ — rfTrlr r1-"ii1rl h" ' i rrll i -ii1r •l-'-iit 
 at least three-quarters of an inch to permit successful pointing. The 
 most durable pointing is made from a mealy mixture of one part Port- 
 land cement to one part sand. Avoid projecting pointing, and under no 
 circumstances allow any pointing in freezing or extremely hot weather. 
 Bricklaying requires the closest attention, as it can be slighted at any 
 time and the defect covered up in a moment. Good building brick should 
 be sound, free from cracks, stones, flaws and lumps of any kind, 
 and should be incapable of absorbing more than one-tenth of its weight 
 of water. If brickwork has not each brick laid in a full bed of mortar, 
 the weight of the wall will frequently cause pieces of brick to spall off. 
 Neglecting to wet brick in hot weather before using is the cause of 
 many failures. Mortar composed of one part Portland cement and 
 three parts sand is the best kind to use, and is entirely uninjured by 
 freezing and thawing. Mortar stains are used in coloring mortar, either 
 to get the effect of a mass of color or to emphasize the joints ; also to 
 permit rougher bricks to be used with good effect, the mortar in this 
 case being stained the color of the bricks. Galvanized wall ties, in 
 sufficient number, should be used for bonding face brick to the main 
 wall. When a new wall is to be joined to an old one, a groove should 
 be cut in the old wall to fit into and to allow for its settling indepen- 
 dently. Upon completion, the exposed laces of all walls should be 
 washed down with a solution of diluted muriatic acid, after removing all 
 dirt and surplus m.ortar. Semi-circular and segmental forms of arches 
 are the best as regards stability, and are the simplest to construct. To 
 show a proportion pleasing to the eye, the radius of a segmental arch 
 should be equal to the width of the opening. 
 
 Sand=Lime Brick Owing to their uniformity of shape, texture 
 
 and color, sand-lime bricks are extensively 
 used. Being formed under great pressure they are dense and almost 
 impervious to moisture. They are made in every shade of color ; they 
 will not stain, discolor, warp, twist or shrink, and owing to the time, 
 fuel and labor economized in their production, are not expensive. 
 
14 
 
 Concrete Building Portland cement hollow concrete building 
 
 blocks, sills, caps and water tables, in 
 imitation of stone, are now being made, which require close inspection 
 to tell that they are not the natural stone. They can be economically 
 made at the site of the operation into any shape, form, finish or color 
 desired. In use, these blocks are set and pointed the same as stone 
 ashlar work, and insure a dry, frost-proof wall. A properly-made con- 
 crete block is stronger and more quickly laid than brick and most kinds 
 of building stone, and its durability is not to be questioned; besides, 
 block construction has an advantage over poured concrete walls, in 
 that the blocks are thoroughly seasoned before they are set, and hence 
 no provision is required for expansion and contraction. Such walls are 
 also less liable to crack, and will be more uniform in texture and color. 
 
 Cellai* It is wise to have the cellar under the entire house, with 
 a clear height of not less than seven feet. This will cost 
 little more than to dig a smaller cellar, and will insure not only greater 
 storage room, but, with windows on at least three sides, a bountiful sup- 
 ply of light and thorough ventilation, as well as dryness in the house it- 
 self. Where practicable, a cellar drain is very desirable. It is wise to have 
 the walls and joists whitewashed on account of the increased light and 
 cleanliness. Where coal is used as a fuel, provide generous coal bins 
 with movable tailboards and shovel openings ; these should be readily 
 accessible for coal delivery and discharge. A brick ash pit constructed 
 as a support under the kitchen range hearth, with a clean-out door 
 in the base, is a feature which will give great comfort and eliminate 
 the annoyance and dust caused in removing the ashes several times each 
 day into ash receptacles. A cellarway to the outside, provided with 
 exterior battened doors, and skid steps to the cellar, is indispensable 
 for convenience. The floor of the cellar should be covered with not 
 less than three inches of good concrete having a smooth one-inch finish 
 coat. A block composed of four three-inch by twelve-inch by three- 
 feet yellow pine pieces spiked together and set on end two feet 
 in the cellar bed will form an excellent chopping block, 
 which will save the floor from the destructive blows it is otherwise 
 sure to receive. The inside of all cellar walls should be carefully 
 broomed down and efficiently dashed with mortar, which should be 
 broomed or troweled to a smooth surface. All cellar joists 
 should be free from imperfections and of sufficient strength to support 
 the longest span. No joist or girder should be supported by wood 
 blocks or wedged up with wood chips, else uneven settlements are sure 
 to occur. Use slate. All cellar windows should be screened with 
 one-quarter inch mesh galvanized wire, backed with fly wire, set in a 
 suitable removable frame; and should have glazed sashes hinged at 
 top and provided with hook and staple to fasten open to the ceiling 
 joists ; the glass in the sashes should be puttied on the inside, so as to 
 prevent losening from its own weight when the sash is hung open. 
 Ornamental iron grilles, or five-eighths inch round iron bars let into the 
 head and sill before setting in the wall, are frequently employed where 
 additional security is desired. In order to avoid a blackened or bat- 
 
IS 
 
 tered cellar window or door, and to facilitate the delivery of wood and 
 coal, a circular pattern of chute, which is indestructible, storm, cold 
 and burglar proof, is often built in a new or inserted through an old 
 wall. 
 
 Framing Well-seasoned spruce, pine or hemlock lumber is gen- 
 erally used for framing purposes. The "balloon" frame 
 construction is the most economical for frame houses and is the one 
 most frequently adopted. The studs, as well as the corner posts, are 
 carried from the "sill" (i. e., the flat timber which lies along the top of 
 the foundation wall), continuously to the plate at the top ; the floor joists 
 of the different stories are carried on one by six inch yellow pine pieces, 
 called "ribbons," let into the studs. The outside studding should be en- 
 closed with one-inch sheathing boards covered with heavy building felt, 
 and is then ready to receive the shingles, clapboards or other enclosing 
 finish. Sheathing put on diagonally gives an additional element of 
 strength. To avoid unequal settling, all studs (upright partition timbers) 
 should pass between the joists, and foot upon the sill or cap of the parti- 
 tion below; when not so supported they should be trussed. All joists 
 should be "cross-bridged" at intervals of not less than seven feet in their 
 length. All joists should be doubled where they support a partition, 
 and also around all stair wells or other openings required to be framed. 
 All inside and outside door and window studs should be doubled. The 
 framing of the floors, roof and partitions of brick, stone or concrete 
 buildings is the same as for wooden buildings, with the exception of 
 the wall plate, which should be anchored, and the floor joists, which 
 should have a bearing of four inches in the wall and should be cut away 
 four inches at the top to nothing at the bottom, so as to provide a neces- 
 sary air space around the end, and so that, in case of fire, the falling 
 timbers shall not pry the walls over. All floor timbers should be "trim- 
 med" clear of the hearths and brickwork of the chimney. 
 
 Sheathing Papers Papers and felts are manufactured in great 
 
 variety for use on buildings. In the trade, 
 the term "building paper" is confined to the rosin-sized and cheaper 
 grades of paper which are never water-proof, while the heavier and bet- 
 ter grades are classed as "sheathing papers." Only reliable brands of 
 guaranteed felts and water-proof sheathing papers should be used. 
 Over the sheathing boards of a frame house to be enclosed with siding, 
 shingles or plaster, be sure to use at least one thickness of heavy sheath- 
 ing paper. Under all tin or other forms of metal roofing use one thick- 
 ness of heavy dry felt paper. Cover with heavy tarred felt paper the 
 roof-boards of all roofs to be tiled or slated. In every case, the felt or 
 paper should be well overlapped not less than two inches and securely 
 fastened in place. It is advisable not to use sheathing paper under a 
 shingle roof, as the durability of the shingles will thus be affected. The 
 surface of all underflooring should be covered with a heavy deadening 
 felt. 
 
 Flooring it is always preferable to have an underfloor of hemlock 
 or other cheap wood, dressed on one side and laid diag- 
 onally. In frame houses the underfloor should extend to the sheathing 
 line in order that it may act as a wind and fire stop. If only a single 
 
r6 
 
 floor layer is used it is absolutely necessary that the boards shall be 
 tongued and grooved. The better qualities of matched flooring are 
 usually hollowed on the underside to prevent warping. Quarter-sawed 
 or "rift-sawed" boards, presenting an "edge-grain" surface, are far 
 preferable to "flat grain," for inside top flooring, because they wear 
 evenly and do not sliver on the surface. Any floor not made of care- 
 fully selected time-seasoned and kiln-dried flooring will be a source of 
 constant care, annoyance and expense. The cost of laying and finish- 
 ing a poor floor is the same as for a perfect floor. All inside top floor- 
 ing should be tongued and grooved, seven-eighths of an inch thick, and 
 not over two and one-half inches wide, tightly driven together and 
 secret nailed. When flooring is to be finished it should be carefully 
 planed, scraped and sand-papered smooth. If floors are to be covered 
 and not finished, North Carolina pine will fully answer the purpose. 
 Use one and one-eighth inch Georgia pine, flat-grained, for a durable 
 porch floor, and avoid sap flooring. In order to drain quickly, a porch 
 floor should have a fall of one inch to every five feet. Where a porch 
 floor joins a stone wall, build a two-inch by three-inch dressed yellow 
 pine strip into the wall to receive the flooring, and end the pointing on 
 a line clear of the floor. Under radiators to be set on a floor which is 
 to be carpeted, provide seven-eighths inch chamfered finished boards of 
 suitable dimensions. 
 
 Hardwood Flooring A finished hardwood floor has many ad- 
 vantages over a carpeted floor. The 
 wood floor is cleaner, more wholesome, more sanitary and more easily 
 kept in order. Carpets wear out periodically; hardwood floors last a 
 lifetime. Where a highly finished surface is required, capable of long 
 resistance to wear, use either maple, beech, birch, oak or "rift" Georgia 
 pine flooring. Based on comparative prices and durability, maple is the 
 most economical flooring manufactured. Maple will outwear the best 
 heart edge grain yellow pine, gum, fir, ash or oak, will not sliver but 
 wear smoother, look better and last longer than other woods, excepting 
 perhaps beech and birch. On account of its toughness, such flooring 
 should be hollow-backed and mill-bored for nailing. Thin, narrow, side 
 and end matched hollow-backed hardwood flooring, on account of elim- 
 inating all top nailing, is frequently used to veneer new or old floors. It is 
 advisable first to cover the sub-floor with water-proof paper and to have 
 the top flooring laid to cross the joints of the sub-floor. When borders 
 are desired it is prudent to use step, instead of mitre joints, at all comers. 
 
 Parquetry Flooring Parquetry flooring, which is produced 
 
 in numberless patterns and designs, 
 permits the laying of a finished hardwood floor on any new or old sub- 
 floor. For good results use quartered white oak strips six feet to 
 twelve feet long, five-sixteenths inch thick and about two inches in ■ 
 width, laid across the boards of the foundation floor, and top nailed 
 with one and one-quarter inch No. 15 wire brads. Set the nails; plane, 
 scrape and sand-paper perfectly smooth; then apply a coat of paste 
 filler (tinted as desired) ; thoroughly remove surplus filler ; apply a thin 
 coat of shellac ; putty all nail^holes ; and then finish with two thin coats 
 of prepared wax or special floor varnish. 
 
17 
 
 Floor and Wall Tiling Where a floor is to be subjected to 
 
 very considerable wear, or it is es- 
 pecially desired to have sanitary qualities combined with decorative 
 effects, materials which have an even, durable and non-absorbent wear- 
 ing surface must be used. The materials best adapted for such floors 
 are marbles, slates, mosaics, terrazza, encaustic, vitreous and ceramic, 
 round, square and hexagonal clay tiles, interlocking and iillaid rubber 
 tiles, cork tiles, glass blocks, cements and asphalts; for walls and wain- 
 scoting slates, marbles, marble mosaics, terrazza, cut-glass mosaics, 
 glazed, enameled and vitreous clay tiles, enameled cement plasters, and 
 enameled n^etal tiles, are used. 
 
 Sanitary Tile Floors to be tiled should have seven-eighths inch 
 boards on cleats nailed to the sides of the joists 
 five inches below the finished top of the floor; the joists should be bev- 
 eled on both sides to an edge on top. All wall tiles should be set level 
 with each other and square and true with the walls of the room. To 
 obtain the best results, select appropriate tile and have all setting done 
 in Portland cement by practical and skillful workmen! All corners and 
 angles should be fitted with appropriate cove or angle tile, floors, with 
 a sanitary base (when floor is tiled), and wainscoting with a "bull-nose" 
 or other suitable cap mould. The modern encaustic and vitreous floor 
 tile is non-absorbent and practically indestructible ; it is made in all 
 sizes, shapes and colors, from the smallest mosaic tessera to the six-inch 
 by six-inch heavy tile. As a rule, plain white, non-crazing, glazed or 
 dull finished wall tiles, with colored or decorated bands or strips, are 
 used for wainscoting. 
 
 Imitation Tile This material is attractive in appearance and 
 substantial in construction. Its special recom- 
 mendation is cheapness, as it is much less serviceable than tile. It con- 
 sists of sheets of non-rustable white metal embossed to resemble en- 
 caustic tiling, finished with special flexible high luster enamel; the sheets 
 do not overlap each other, but fit edge to edge, and are affixed to the wall 
 or ceiling with a special cement which readily makes the material a part 
 of the wall itself. 
 
 Cut Glass Mosaic Tiling One of the oldest known forms of 
 wui, Kiia^^ o ^.j.^^ consisted of mlaid cut-glass 
 
 mosaics which on account of the numerous rich colors obtainable pro- 
 duced most effective designs and enduring results. Modern machmery 
 has so reduced the cost of producing cut-glass mosaics or teSsera that 
 thev can now be purchased as reasonably as many other forms of tiling. 
 In setting cut-glass mosaic borders, facings, etc., which are assembled in 
 any desired design backed up with paper for convenience in shipping and 
 handling very much the same formula is used as in setting clay tile. 
 Afte the paper is removed, the surface is leveled and grouted. Fire- 
 olace facings and hearths can be obtained m completed slabs bound in 
 fron frame! ready for setting in position. Indoor and outdoor flower 
 boxe a^d jardinferes of all Ihapes and sizes are made of this material 
 in appropriite designs laid in a rich hydraulic cement mixture over a 
 
i8 
 
 wire lath backing with angle iron frames around them. They are inde- 
 structible and highly decorative. 
 
 Rubber Tiling An attractive, noiseless and sanitary floor tiling 
 which will not crack or roughen on the surface, 
 can be obtained in the form of inlaid rubber tile blocks. This tiling is pro- 
 duced in a great variety of patterns and colors, and can readily be laid 
 close, in especially prepared cement, .on any new or old flooring, Lhereby 
 affording a smooth, easy and comfortable surface to walk- or stand upon. 
 
 Doors and Windows The front door is no longer regarded as 
 
 a mere medium through which to gain ad- 
 mission to the house ; it has become an important feature and must be 
 properly planned and designed. The window, both in the exterior and 
 interior decorative effect, should receive other attention than merely as a 
 hole in the wall. When windows are properly spaced, arranged and bal- 
 anced, they are the very life of the house design. See that there is 
 uniformity in the height of doors and windows ; nothing otherwise will 
 detract more from the general appearance of the interior. All frames 
 require to be set plumb and to be securely fastened in place. All doors 
 should be veneered on a white pine core ; the veneer should be at least 
 one-eighth inch for inside doors and one-quarter inch for outside doors. 
 Solid doors are heavy and bound to warp, and when once warped there 
 is no remedy. All sash should be of white pine, painted, grained or 
 stained to match the inside finish. The bottom of the glass in the sash 
 should not be over thirty four inches from the floor to enable anyone 
 sitting in a chair to look out readily. All window frames should provide 
 a hanging strip for outside shutters or blinds and a suitable separate 
 moulding to receive fly screens. Flashings should be used on the sides 
 and across the top of the exterior door and window frames of a frame 
 house. The under side of all exterior window sills in frames houses 
 should be grooved three-eighths inch to receive the shingles or siding. It 
 is customary to use small lights in storm windows and to fit the sash over 
 the entire opening, hinged at the top. All door mouldings should be ex- 
 a.mined to see that the moulding is nailed to the rail or stile and not to 
 the panel. Sliding door partitions should always be lined on the inside 
 from floor to track with tongued and grooved boards. Avoid carpet 
 strips between connecting doors. Avoid elaboration in trim, use simple 
 lines, easy to clean and take care of. Mitred trims are decidedly effective, 
 but owing to shrinkage it is rare to have them remain tight for any length 
 of time. Corner blocks are more economical and help to obscure 
 shrinkage and settlements. 
 
 Casement Windows To prevent leaking, casement windows 
 
 should be constructed to open cut. In 
 order to facilitate the cleaning of the glass, no section of sash should be 
 more than twenty inches wide. If desirable to screen, let the section 
 holding the wire be hinged to open in. Select a simple, strong and 
 durable pattern of casement adjuster, one readily applied to new or old 
 windows, and designed to lock the sash securely when both closed and 
 when open at any angle. 
 
19 
 
 Window Ventilation Perfect ventilation .consists in supply- 
 ing an adequate amount of fresh air in 
 sucti a manner that the circulation shall be constant and thorough and at 
 the same time free from draughts. Comparatively few buildings are 
 properly equipped for ventilation, although medical science is 
 every day proving the necessity for greater attention to this important 
 detail. The mere opening of a door or window is not sufficient, and is 
 at times impossible or dangerous. Just as sewage is thrown away into 
 the drains, so air that has passed through the human lungs should be 
 gotten rid of at the earliest possible moment. A mechanical system is 
 too expens^j/e for the average dwelling, but there are devices which can 
 be economically applied to any window, which are self-operating, and 
 devoid of mechanism or valves, and which regulate the admission and 
 exhaustion of fresh and foul air, in addition to excluding all dust. 
 
 Metal Weather Strips The essential qualities of practical 
 
 and serviceable weather strips are 
 that they shall be interlocking, indestructible, air-tight, dust-proof, 
 weather-proof, economically and readily applied to new or old doors and 
 windows, and easy and noiseless in operation. 
 
 Shutters, Blinds, Shades and Awnings Awnings and 
 
 double linen 
 shades are rapidly supplanting blinds and shutters. Outside blinds and 
 shutters are generally noisy and inconvenient to operate, especially when 
 screens are in use. Inside blinds interfere with the operation of shades 
 and the hanging of curtains and draperies. An improved pattern of 
 Venetian slat blinds, finished to match the inside woodwork, is now 
 much in vogue. Attractive patterns of fast color awnings add a charm 
 to the outside of a house and comfort to those within. Venetian awning 
 blinds form a permanent window equipment which combines beauty and 
 convenience; the slats can be opened or closed, and the whole blind 
 pulled up out the way, as desired. 
 
 Wire Screens Insect screens composed of finely woven bronze- 
 metal wire netting are the most durable, and will 
 not rust ; they should always be run on a special moulding, outside of the 
 sash line. Wooden frames are cheaper and give very satisfactory serv- 
 ice. Where outside shutters or blinds are not used, a screen covering 
 the entire window opening will admit of the great convenience of sashes 
 being lowered from the top or raised from the bottom ; these one-piece 
 frames should be hinged at the top and hooked in on the sides. For 
 casement windows the frame should be hinged to swing as a door. 
 
 Mill Work To prevent the warping and twisting of newly-deliv- 
 ered hand-smoothed, kiln-dried inside finish or mill- 
 work, it should be immediately "filled," and great care taken to circum- 
 vent its natural tendency to absorb moisture. It is advisable after mill- 
 work has been delivered that the house should be entirely closed in, and 
 the heating apparatus operated on damp dr rainy days. 
 
Mouldings Do not neglect to have a small quarter round or other 
 similar moulding nailed to the floor where the base- 
 board joins the floor. By this means shrinkage is obscured, and sweep- 
 ing is made easier. Baseboard caps and picture moulds should always 
 be "coped" in all angles, never mitred. In kitchens that are not wain- 
 scoted, a four-inch flat chair rail should be carried around the room 
 three feet two inches from floor to centre, to receive the top of a chair 
 back. In nailing up any interior work, the nails should be concealed 
 by nailing in members of the mouldings which will be covered, or, if the 
 moulding is all exposed, by nailing in the quirks of the moulding where 
 it will be least noticed after being puttied in. A wooden or plaster cor- 
 nice, a picture rail in the angle, or a "coved" ceiling, add to the sym- 
 metry of a room by removing the angularity of the square corners, 
 besides making an ostensible support for the ceiling. Wainscoting 
 should be of the same height as some other feature of the room, in 
 order to avoid having the horizontal lines cut up into zigzags. 
 
 Closets Numerous closets of generous dimensions are indispensa- 
 ble ; they cater to comfort, order and neatness. The widths 
 of shelves, distances between them, sizes and arrangements of drawers 
 and hook strips, are matters for deliberation. Closet hooks should be 
 not less than five feet six inches above the floor, and at least three inches 
 below the nearest shelf, so that wearing apparel may be put on and 
 taken off hooks without difficulty. When closets are required to be 
 papered, a plain felt is advisable. Doors should never swing into a 
 closet or against the light from a window. Provide in the bath room 
 wall over the washstand four feet above the finished floor a lined medi- 
 cine closet not less than four inches deep, having movable shelves 
 and a hinged door with a mirror in front. Provide a clock 
 shelf in the kitchen. A conveniently-located linen closet is an important 
 feature not to be overlooked. An adjustable curtain front, corner closet, 
 is a most useful device, which, without nails or tools, can be quickly 
 sprung into position at any desired height ready for use. To produce 
 in connection with a built-in wardrobe, a useful triple cheval glass effect, 
 provide a centre mirror panel, and have a door, with mirror front, hinged 
 on each side of the panel. 
 
 Beamed Ceilings The effect of a beamed ceiling is to lower the 
 
 apparent height of the room. Unless a de- 
 cided, robust effect is desired, beaming should be used only where 
 the ceiling is lofty. To be successful, it should be symmetrically ar- 
 ranged and give the appearance of distinctly helping to hold up what is 
 above. To avoid checking and to insure durability, it is prudent to build 
 the beams of strips boxed to form hollow members. 
 
 The Roof As the roof of a building is the least accessible part, it 
 is prudent and far-seeing to so build it that repairs shall 
 be unnecessary, It is recommended that all shingle, slate and tile roofs 
 have "open valleys" (where the metal is exposed to view in the finished 
 roofs) . To secure lasting results, all valleys, gutters and flashings should 
 be carefully executed and of copper or IX tin plate. Back of chimneys, 
 or wherever snow is liable to collect, the flashing should be carried up 
 
21 
 
 high enough both on the roof and wall that the water from the melt- 
 ing snow will not rise above it. All flashings for chimneys, porches, 
 bays and small roofs attached to any stone or brickwork should have the 
 counter-flashings built in. Too great care cannot be exerted to see that 
 a soil or vent-pipe passing through a roof is made secure and water-tight, 
 with proper allowance made for expansion and contraction. Avoid rest- 
 ing places for birds at the cornice line. Provide means for ventilating 
 the attic. A metal encased trapdoor to the roof of any house, although 
 often unsightly, is to be recommended. It is advisable, when very dark 
 halls or rooms are encountered, to insert in the roof a storm-proof ven- 
 tilating skylight. 
 
 Slate For roofing purposes all slate should be straight-grained, 
 evenly split, and of uniform thickness. A good slate should 
 retain its original color, emit no clayey odor when breathed upon, be free 
 from streaks of hard material called "ribbons," and when held up and 
 struck with the knuckles of the hand, should give forth a sharp, clear, 
 ringing sound. Slate should be fastened to the roof with coppc-, com- 
 position, tinned or galvanized round wire flat-head nails, one near each 
 upper corner. The bottom edge or "tail" of every slate should fit close 
 to the backs of the slate below it. Vertical joints should be close, and 
 should fall on the central line of the slate below. A triple lap of three 
 inches is essential to a tight roof, no matter what length slate or ex- 
 posure is used. 
 
 Tin For flat roofs, tin is usually put on with the ordinary flat lock 
 joint. Wherever the roof covering finishes at a wall or any place 
 where flashing is necessary, the tin should be turned up at least eight 
 inches and securely fastened; then this tin should be counter-flashed 
 and the flashing let into the joint of the wall at least two inches and 
 well cemented. In all tin roofing, the main points are to get the roof 
 water-tight and to make provision for expansion and contraction. It 
 costs no more to put on good tin plate than it does a cheap article. As 
 a protection to the tin and as a preventive of noise, put good roofing 
 felt or paper under the tin. In joining sheets of tin use only the finest 
 solder, as it takes less material and less time, holds faster, rnakes the 
 strongest job, and is the cheapest in the end. Allow no acid in solder- 
 ing ; use rosin only. Have each sheet welj cleated to the roof. Paint 
 all tin underneath, and as soon as the roof is on apply two full coats. 
 It is a great mistake, and injurious to any tin roof, to allow the coating 
 to be scratched off and the tin rusted before painting. If possible, pre- 
 vent walking over a tin roof with shoes with nails in, as they dent and 
 scratch the metal. Do not allow plaster, or bricks and mortar, or 
 boards filled with nails, to be dragged over or thrown on the roof after 
 the tin is laid. Use only the best grade of stamped roofing plate, and 
 employ a responsible roofer. 
 
 Shingles Redwood, cypress, cedar and white fiine are best adapted 
 for shingles. Basswood shingles should never be used. 
 White cedar shingles weather to an artistic gray and red cedar to a silvery 
 brown tint decidedly pleasing to the eye. Cypress shingles should be 
 stained by dipping them two-thirds of their length in a reliable permanent 
 
22 
 
 shingle stain. Shingles laid in lead paint are inclined to rot. Square 
 butt, split shingles, hand shaven, are decidedly better than sawed shingles. 
 Shingles should never be over six inches wide. They should b^ of suffi- 
 cient length to be laid not more than six inches to the weather, with a 
 triple lap of at least two inches, and fastened with two galvanized 
 wrought nails, regardless of their width. Shingle joints should be 
 close and carefully broken. Avoid random width shingles, for the rea- 
 son that joints will never be properly broken. In building scaffolds 
 see that nails are not driven through the roof. In shingling up the 
 corners of a building or the hips of a roof, shingles should be lapped to 
 show the edge of the shingle on both sides of the corner, or hip alter- 
 nately. For the reason that side walls covered with siding or clap- 
 boards require frequent painting, and because the joints are Hkely to 
 be coincident with the joints between the sheathing boards underneath, 
 shingles are considered preferable. 
 
 Roofing Tile The use of roofing tiles is becoming more general 
 
 every year. They make a beautiful roof, and, 
 besides possessing lasting qualities, have many advantages over other 
 forms of roofing materials. Roofing tiles are manufactured in a variety 
 of fancy and interlocking patterns which require special roof construc- 
 tion. The shingle pattern, however, is most generally used for domestic 
 purposes and gives perfect satisfaction. These tiles are attached to the 
 roof in the same manner that slate is attached, and present a beautiful 
 appearance. 
 
 rietal Shingles Shingles stamped' from tin plate, painted, or 
 galvanized, possess many distinctive and valu- 
 able qualities. They are decidedly ornamental, yet not expensive ; they 
 are lighter than slate, and can be readily applied without special construc- 
 tion for support ; they will not break like slate, nor crack, warp or rot 
 like wooden shingles. They make a good storm-proof roof, and have 
 ample provision for contraction and expansion. Metal shingles should 
 not be used on flat roofs, but are especially adapted for all pitched roofs. 
 
 Slag and Gravel Roofing The only difference between 
 
 slag and gravel roofing is that 
 for the former crushed slag is used instead of gravel. This kind of 
 roofing should not be used on roofs having more than a very slight pitch. 
 The sheathing boards are first covered with one thickness of rosin-sized 
 paper, lapping each sheet one inch over the preceding one. The nailing is 
 done with three-penny barbed roofing nails driven through tin discs. 
 Over the rosin-sized paper lay two full thicknesses of tarred felt, lapping 
 each sheet seventeen inches over the preceding one, and nailing the 
 exposed edges of the sheets only so often as may be necessary to hold 
 the sheets in place until the remaining felt can be applied. Over the 
 entire surface of the felt, thus laid, spread a uniform coating of pitch, 
 mopped on. Then lay three full thicknesses of felt, lapping each sheet 
 twenty-two inches over the preceding one, and naihng, as laid, every, 
 three feet, not more than ten inches from the upper edge. When the 
 felt is thus laid and secured, mop with pitch the full width of twenty 
 inches under each lap ; then spread over the entire surface of the roof 
 a uniform coating of pitch, into which, while hot, embed slag or gravel. , 
 
23 
 
 Gutters and Conductors it is important that gutters shall 
 
 be provided with a fall sufficient 
 to carry all water to the conductors ; also that the gutters shall be so ar- 
 ranged as to be safe from injury by sliding snow. Boxed gutters should 
 have a solid bottom and sides, securely supported and carefully lined with 
 tin or copper. Hanging galvanized iron trough gutters should be se- 
 cured in place with galvanized iron adjustable hangers. Plain rectangu- 
 lar or corrugated polygon conductors of copper or galvanized iron should 
 be used. They should be fastened to the sides of the house with mal- 
 leable iron fittings, and provided with a wire globe strainer in the gutter 
 opening. Tin conductors are soon eaten out with rust and aije easily 
 dented. 
 
 Snow Guards In localities where a heavy snow deposit is likely, 
 or in closely adjoining properties where damage is 
 likely from sliding snow, practical, galvanized or copper snow guards for 
 all roofs are essential. Snow guards should have the qualities of rigidity 
 and durability, and the possibility of convenient application to new or old 
 roofs without puncturing the roof covering. 
 
 Painting Paints are used for embellishment and for preservation. 
 The paint which best preserves its original color will best 
 serve the first purpose, and the paint which longest maintains its surface 
 intact will best serve the second purpose. Exterior surfaces should not 
 be painted while the temperature is below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where 
 a painted finish is intended, all woodwork, as soon as erected, should 
 have all knots and pitchy places thoroughly covered with shellac and 
 then immediately primed to prevent warping or "checking" by exposure ; 
 the next step is to fill up all nail-holes and crevices with putty, the nails 
 for this purpose being "set in" to a depth of one-eighth inch or more. 
 Three thin coats of paint are far better than two heavy ones, and will last 
 a third longer. All colors fade somewhat, darker colors more than the 
 standard buffs and light grays. It is a good rule not to use white as a 
 priming coat. Uniform work is best obtained by making every succeeding 
 coat a little lighter in color than the one preceding it. A house that has not 
 been painted before should have a priming coat of pure white lead 
 (tinted), with pure raw linseed oil for a thinner, and not over 5% tur- 
 pentine drier added; this coat should be allowed to stand at least two 
 days before the second coat is applied. New work should have three 
 coats ; the last coat to be a mixture of four parts white lead, by weight, 
 to one part of zinc white, colored to suit the fancy and thinned again, 
 as mentioned above. If prepared paint is used, insist on a priming coat 
 of white lead. Near the sea, the proportions should be 50% white lead 
 and 50% zinc white. If the house has been painted before, see that the 
 surface is thoroughly dusted and every loose particle of old paint re- 
 moved. If the surface of any new galvanized iron work is to be painted, 
 a priming coat of "galvanum" can be depended upon to cause the suc- 
 ceeding coats of paint to adhere firmly and to eliminate the danger of 
 bhstering or shelling ofif. Paint all exposed tin work, on other than tin 
 roofs', a color and shade to match the balance of the roof covering. Be- 
 fore painting tin, all surplus rosin, grease or oil must be carefully re- 
 
moved and the work promptly and thoroughly coated with paint espe- 
 cially prepared to protect the roof and withstand the utmost extreme of 
 stormy weather and sunshine without leaking, checking, lifting or peel- 
 ing. Before painting plastered walls, note that the walls are perfectly 
 dry and have been carefully brushed, apply several priming coats, shellac 
 or fillers, and when thoroughly dry, apply the finishing coats. The mar- 
 ket affords ready-for-use enamel paints, which, if applied on poplar or 
 other fine grained and non-resinous wood, in accordance with the direc- 
 tions of the manufacturers, will produce satisfactory results. Cold water 
 paint is more economical than oil paint and for some purposes is fully as 
 satisfactory; it does not rub or scale off, is fire-resisting, and is readily 
 applied to any surface. It is put up in the form of dry powder, which 
 can be mixed with cold water to the desired consistency. The proper 
 mixture of creosote, pure linseed oil and reliable pigments, produces the 
 best-known preservative and stain for shingles. Brick walls can be 
 reliably painted or renovated with natural pigments united with zinc 
 oxide. For satisfactory results, old floors which are to be finished for 
 rugs should have all cracks and crevices filled and finished with a prepa- 
 ration specially manufactured for the purpose. 
 
 Natural Finish Oak, chestnut, ash, and all woods with open 
 
 pores, should receive a coat of reliable paste 
 filler before being varnished. Unless the filler is well rubbed into all the 
 pores and all the cavities are filled level with the surface of the wood, a 
 satisfactory job of varnishing cannot be obtained. The essential parts of 
 a hardwood filler are a transparent, non-abso'rbent, mineral base, and a 
 proper proportion of linseed oil and japan to make a good binder. As 
 the filler is the foundation of the finish, cornstarch and vegetable fillers 
 should be avoided, as they will shrink with time, dropping the -varnish 
 and leaving a depression in each pore. One coat of reliable liquid filler 
 or white shellac should be applied on such woods as birch, maple, cherry, 
 pine and cypress before being varnished. Note carefully that all wood- 
 work is perfectly dry, smooth and clean before varnishing. Varnish 
 should be applied in thin coats and no subsequent coat applied until the 
 last is permanently hard and has been lightly sand-papered. Drying 
 will be greatly facilitated by the influence of light; dampness and 
 draughts of cold air must be avoided. Good varnish should dry so 
 quickly as to be free from stickiness in one or two days. The more oil 
 a varnish contains the less liable it is to crack. As good and bad var- 
 nishes resemble each other closely before being applied, too great care 
 cannot be exerted in choosing goods from a manufacturer of reputation. 
 A competent finisher should be employed, as the best of varnish cannot 
 be expected to turn out well if improperly used. In the majority of 
 cases the cause of an unsatisfactory finish on the woodwork is the use 
 of inferior or inappropriate varnish, which has marred the natural beau- 
 ties of the wood instead of developing and preserving them. The finish 
 on outside doors, inside blinds, window sills and bath rooms should be 
 covered with reliable water and sun-proof varnish. One-coat finishes are 
 inexpensive and impart an artistic, durable finish to any kind of wood. 
 Porch floors will be best preserved if given two full coats of boiled lin- 
 seed oil. All finished inside floors which require to be varnished should 
 
25 
 
 be surfaced with a grade of floor varnish which will not scratch white. 
 The proper application of prepared wax upon a hardwood or parquetry 
 floor will produce a lasting, artistic finish to which dust and dirt will not 
 adhere ; it will preserve and beautify the wood, and will not crack, blister, 
 peel off, or show laps, heel marks or scratches. A surface food which 
 is easily applied, instantly absorbed and quick drying, should frequently 
 be used on old varnished work in order to restore its original brightness 
 and lustre by removing all scratches, stains and dirt. Such a food will 
 preserve the finish indefinitely, avoiding the necessity of frequent re- 
 varnishing. 
 
 Glass Common window glass is technically known as sheet glass. 
 It can be readily distinguished from plate glass because of a 
 wavy appearance which cannot be wholly avoided. Defects in glass are 
 very apparent and consist of waves, air-bubbles, twists, sand-specks and 
 patches of color. Sheet glass is commonly used, but when it can be 
 afforded there is no material in a house that looks its worth or affords 
 more satisfaction than plate glass. Figured rolled glass is generally 
 used where obscurity is desired, or for purely ornamental effects ; on 
 account of its cleanliness and diffusing qualities it has almost entirely 
 supplanted ground and chipped glass. Polished, maze, ribbed and rough 
 wire glass are all strong, compact and durable, and are extensively used 
 where a missile protection or fire-retardent is desired, because they can- 
 not be shattered, and while they can be fractured retain their place after 
 fracture. The decorative value of artistic, proper toned and convention- 
 ally designed leaded art glass cannot be overestimated. Great care should 
 be exerted not to overdo nor to mar the color scheme by its indiscrimin- 
 ate use. 
 
 Glazings Generally spealdng, all glass should be bedded in a layer 
 of putty spread in the rebate of the sash and the glass 
 pressed into this bed so as to lay solid. It should then be secured with 
 "sprigs" and "front glazed." Observe that the putty does not project 
 over the wood rebate so as to show from the inside of the sash. All plate 
 glass door lights and mirrors should be back puttied and secured by 
 wooden beads. All lights of common glass over twenty-four inches 
 wide should be double thick. 
 
 Wood Lath Spruce and hemlock laths are commonly used, 
 although white pine is considered the best lath. 
 All laths should be free from sap, bark and dead knots. Observe that 
 they are nailed up horizontally to the studs, spaced about three-eighths 
 inch apart for lime and sand plaster and one-quarter inch apart for 
 cement or patent plaster, and securely nailed ; also that joints are prop- 
 erly broken and do not pass each other in the angles. To avoid radi- 
 ating cracks over door and window heads, laths should extend at least 
 to the next stud beyond the jamb. 
 
 Wire Lath To meet the requirements of the different plastering 
 compositions and the varying conditions of construc- 
 tion, wire lath is made in great variety. It comes plain, painted and 
 galvanized. Painted or galvanized lath should be" used in connection 
 
26 
 
 with special hard plaster compounds. Galvanizing the wire lath after 
 it is woven adds very much to its stiffness, as the spelter solders the wire 
 together at the intersections. Galvanized lath is also less liable than 
 plain lath to corrosion before the plastering is applied. All wire lath 
 should be stretched tight and securely fastened when placed in position, 
 so as to insure a firm surface for plastering. To prevent cracks in angles 
 after fastening, all partitions which join the main walls should have a 
 twelve-inch strip bent in the angle and securely fastened. Wire lath 
 is a protection against fire and vermin, and is a thorough and practi- 
 cally unvarying key for the mortar. Galvanized lath is strongly recom- 
 mended for exterior plastering or stucco-work. 
 
 Expanded Metal Lath This form of lath is made from strips 
 
 of soft tough steel by a mechanical 
 process which pushes out, perforates or expands the metal into meshes 
 so as to give a double clinch to the mortar when applied. Metal lath 
 should never be cut at the angles of a room, but bent to the shape of the 
 angle and continued to the next stud beyond, which not only prevents 
 cracks at the angles, but strengthens the wall. Wire, expanded or sheet 
 metal lath affords an excellent plaster key, which becomes completely 
 embedded in the mortar, thereby protecting the small body of wire or 
 metal in the wall, and affording a practical fire-retardent. 
 
 Plastering interior plastering on laths is generally done in three 
 coats , except for dwellings of moderate cost, where 
 the scratch and brown coat is applied at one time. The first coat is called 
 the scratch coat ; the second, the brown coat ; the third or finishihg coat 
 is known as the skim coat, white coat, putty coat, sand-finish, etc. Under 
 no circumstances should the finish coat be applied before the brown coat 
 is thoroughly dry, and the more the finish coat is troweled the harder 
 it becomes. Sand-finish has a rough surface resembling sand-paper ; it 
 is composed of lime-putty and coarse sand, in equal proportions, and 
 it is finished with a wooden or cork float. In applying the first coat of 
 plaster, sufficient pressure must be exerted to force the mortar through 
 the lath openings so that it shall bend over and form a hook or key on 
 the reverse side. Insist upon the straightness and accuracy of all cor- 
 ners and angles and the carrying of all plastering down tight to the 
 floor. It is a wise precaution to protect all openings temporarily, as 
 plastering exposed to the action of a draught will dry so rapidly as to 
 crack, warp and even break bond. Good troweling is what makes a 
 good plastered wall, and there is no substitute. With either rough- 
 casting or stucco-work the best results are obtained by furring over the 
 sheathing of a frame house and using wire lath. If a brick or stone 
 wall is to be covered, the wall should have a surface rough enough to 
 provide a good key. Before applying the first coat, the surface of the 
 wall should be well sprayed with water, to prevent the total absorption 
 of the water from the mortar. Care should always be taken not to per- 
 mit rough cast or stucco to freeze, or to dry too fast with the heat. 
 Rough-casting usually consists of two coats of rich lime and cement 
 mortar, with a generous proportion of cow's hair in the first coat. The 
 face of the first co^t should be well scratched and damped before receiv- 
 ing the second coat. While the second coat is soft, a dash consisting 
 
27 
 
 of clean washed small gravel, mixed with lime, mineral coloring and 
 water, should be carefully applied with a wooden paddle, making what 
 is commonly styled "pebble-dashing." Mortar for exterior plastering 
 called stucco, should consist of three parts of clean, coarse, sharp 
 sand to one part of Portland cement. Succeeding coats, either two or 
 three, should on no account be allowed to dry thoroughly after applica- 
 tion, as otherwise they are sure to separate. 
 
 Composition Ornament Highly satisfactory decorative re- 
 sults may be obtained by the use of 
 plastic relief ornaments, which are produced in a large variety of correctly 
 and artistically designed forms, such as caps, brackets, coves and cor- 
 nices. These can be treated to correspond with the surrounding decora- 
 tive materials or stained to match perfectly almost any woodwork. 
 In addition to their stability, plastic relief ornaments furnish a most 
 economical artistic medium for decorating the house. It is advisable to 
 use special composition for outside work, fibrous plaster for the interior 
 enrichment of plastered walls and ceilings, and interior composition in 
 connection with woodwork. 
 
 Cement Wall Plasters The advantages gained by the use 
 
 of reliable cement wall plasters are 
 uniformity in strength and quality, extra hardness, toughness and dura- 
 bility, freedom from pitting, economy of time in mixing and drying, less 
 weight and moisture in the building, resistance to the action of fire and 
 water, and minimum danger from frost. 
 
 Corner Beads As the corner of a plastered wall is its weakest 
 
 part, protection from knocks should be provided. 
 
 This can be accomplished by the use of a galvanized metal corner bead, 
 
 which provides a rigid, strong, smooth, even, and anti-rusting edge for 
 
 all exposed corners. 
 
 CtlimneyS A chimney is required to produce the draught necessary 
 for the proper combustion of fuel, and to furnish 
 means for discharging the noxious products of combustion. All chim- 
 neys or flues should be carried as straight as possible and built from 
 the ground up with nine-inch brick walls laid in cement mortar, and with 
 the inside smoothly cemented ; or with a four-inch brick wall lined from 
 the base to the top with terra cotta lining, which on account of its 
 smoothness and the absence of sharp corners fails to hold soot and 
 causes a strong upward action. The ends of lining pipe should fit close 
 • and be built in as the flue or flues are carried up. To insure a proper 
 draft, no flue should be less than eight inches square, nor of a smaller 
 size than the required area of smoke-pipe from the heating apparatus 
 or range. Where "thimbles" are required they should extend through 
 from the inside face of the flue lining to the finished face of the plaster. 
 The chimney should be allowed to settle firmly before being enclosed 
 within a building ; this point is important, because the chimney mass is 
 liable to settle, draw away from the part supported by the roof timbers, 
 and leave a dangerous crack at an unfrequented spot. Woodwork con- 
 tiguous to chimneys should be framed, leaving at least two inches of 
 
2§ 
 
 cleared space around the chimney. All smoke-pipes should be provided 
 with dampers and erected so that the joints will overlap toward the 
 stove or heating apparatus; this will prevent the escape of sparks 
 through imperfect joints. All unused pipe holes in chimneys should 
 be stopped with metal caps. The chief cause of a smoky chimney is 
 the lack of air supply at the base. At least the six top courses of a chim- 
 ney should be laid in cement mortar and preferably coped with stone. 
 Generally speaking, outside chimneys are to be avoided in houses of 
 moderate cost, where economy of construction and of fuel is an im- 
 portant consideration. An inside chimney is usually cheaper to build, 
 and in many houses a central chimney may be designed to serve all pur- 
 poses. 
 
 Fireplaces Do not build fireplaces for show; build them because 
 you are willing to burn fuel for the enjoyment the fire 
 gives you, and so locate them that those sitting about will not be dis- 
 turbed by persons entering the room or passing to and fro. In recent 
 years fireplaces finished entirely with face brick and stone have grown 
 in popularity; when not so finished, however, the backs and jambs 
 should be lined with ornamental iron or tile. Very rich and attractive 
 fireplace facings may be made of ceramic mosaic and unglazed tiles in 
 dull, vitreous and iridescent surfaces and colorings. Fireplaces with- 
 out shelves can be designed with most effective results. Vigilant super- 
 intendence is essential when fireplaces are being constructed. Hearths 
 should be built only on brick arches, sprung from the chimney breast 
 to the stringer, leaving a space of at least four inches between the top 
 of the arch and the finished hearth, which should be filled with cement 
 mortar. A fireplace opening thirty inches wide should never be more 
 than thirty inches high from the finished hearth ; a flat-arched opening 
 supported with iron bars gives the best results. Fireplaces should be 
 provided with dampers. Smoky fireplaces are generally due to an 
 opening too high or a flue too small and not in the centre. To insure 
 a good draft, the back of the fireplace should be inclined gradually for- 
 ward at a point commencing six courses of brick from the hearth. Fire- 
 places located on the first floor should have an ash pit formed of the sup- 
 porting brickwork, provided with an ash dump in the hearth and a clean- 
 out door at the cellar floor level. 
 
 Qas Logs and Gas Grates Gas fires have become very popu- 
 lar by reason of their conve- 
 nience, their prompt service, their cleanliness, and their freedom from 
 dust and ashes. The common practice of cutting joists down three ' 
 inches and filling in a concrete foundation, as a base for a gas log or 
 gas grate, should be avoided. This method results first in drying the 
 joists underneath, then a charring process starts in, which may go on 
 for a number of years, after which spontaneous combustion takes place 
 and a fire occurs. Provided no wood or coal fire is built in it, a gas 
 log or a gas grate may be safely installed in any room of a new' or old 
 house if the floor construction is omitted or removed where the fire- 
 place is to be located, and a brick trimmer arch is turned from the face 
 of the trimmer to the wall, not less than two feet six inches for a gas log 
 
4$ 
 
 and two feet for a gas grate, and then filled in with a concrete founda- 
 tion, either smooth finished or floored with tile, etc. On this founda- 
 tion the fireolace is formed of four-inch cement laid brick or two-inch 
 finished metal or wire lath partitions extended to the required height of 
 the opening. A depth of from three inches to eight inches is required 
 for a gas grate, and nine inches to fifteen inches for a gas log. For 
 gas log service the faces of these partitions should be lined with orna- 
 mental iron backs and jambs or tile laid in cement. When a gas log or 
 a gas grate is not connected with a brick flue, it is necessary tO' provide 
 and fasten to the top of the partitions a No. 24 gauge galvanized iron 
 hood with throw damper, connected with a six-inch asbestos-covered 
 galvanized !ron vent pipe leading up through the roof and provided 
 with a cap. To prevent down drafts, remove noxious odors and regu- 
 late the ventilation, a damper is essential. Gas logs are made in widths 
 ranging from sixteen inches to twenty-four inches. When made of 
 hard, non-porous clay, in imitation of black oak and silver birch, they 
 are almost indestructible, and are easily cleaned with water. The natural 
 effect of burning logs is best produced by selecting a pattern of log which 
 provides for flames coming from underneath the log, and for the 
 economical production of heat by an adjustment to control the mixture 
 of gas and air. A vapor pan in close proximity to a burning gas log 
 or gas grate will prevent too dry a heat and aid in deodorizing the gas 
 or product of combustion. Gas grates constructed of cast metal in vari- 
 ous finishes are made to fit two-feet-by-two-feet and two-feet~six-inch 
 by two-feet-six-inch openings, and provided with removable "summer 
 fronts." Owing to their construction, the inner hearth, the damper, and 
 the lining for back and jambs, are not necessary. To secure the great- 
 est amount of heat with the least consumption of gas, select a deep 
 pattern of grate in which the combustion is divided and spread over the 
 whole asbestos fibre surface of the grate by means of a large number 
 of small openings. 
 
 Warming the House Three methods are employed in the appli- 
 cation of steam and hot-water systems : 
 first, direct radiation, in which the heating fluid, either water or steam, 
 is introduced into radiators placed in the rooms ; second, direct-indirect 
 radiation, in which a supply of outer air is brought in at the base of the 
 radiators; third, indirect radiation, in which radiators are placed in 
 chambers in the basement, into which air from without is permitted 
 to enter, and thence passes into the rooms through registers. 
 
 Steam Heating The apparatus used for steam heating includes 
 radiators, pipes, controlling valves, and a boiler. 
 The principal methods of piping used are called, respectively, the one 
 and two-pipe systems. In the one-pipe system steam is supplied to the 
 radiators by one pipe, the condensation passing back through the supply 
 pipe to the main ; this main pitches down from the boiler and is con- 
 nected with "bleeders," which return the condensation to the boiler. In 
 the two-pipe system the steam, after passing through the radiator, is 
 returned to the boiler by a separate line connected with each radiator. 
 Steam heating has the disadvantage of necessitating a fire hot enough 
 to produce steam before the system will be efficient. The first cost of 
 
36 
 
 steam heating (especially the one-pipe system) is considerably less than 
 hot-water heating, due to the smaller size of the boiler, pipes and radia- 
 tors required. 
 
 Vacuum Heating In this system steam is used, and pipes are 
 
 run Irom air valves on the radiators to the 
 cellar, where they are connected with a device which expels the air and 
 holds the vacuum, thus drawing the steam through the pipes and radia- 
 tors from the boiler. Special air valves and fittings are required, other- 
 wise the system is similar to steam heating. This system insures the 
 entire elimination of leaky air valves, the utmost flexibility of result 
 and adaptability to climatic changes, and the greatest speed in heating 
 with the least attention of operation. 
 
 Vapor Heating in this system the return pipes are connected 
 with a condensing coil in the cellar, and with the 
 smoke flue, thus creating a suction which draws the vapor from the 
 boiler and through the pipes and radiators. Special valves are used to 
 regulate the vapor supply to each radiator, and a special apparatus is 
 required in connection with the boiler. 
 
 Hot=Water Heating The apparatus required for hot-water 
 
 heating is similar to a two-pipe steam 
 system with the addition of an expansion tank, which acts as a safety 
 valve by allowing the water to escape in case of over-pressure. All 
 mains should pitch up from the boiler one inch in ten feet to 
 assist the flow of water. In order completely to drain the entire sys- 
 tem, a cock should be provided at the lowest point of the system. In 
 cold weather, if the house is to be vacated, no water should be allowed 
 to remain in the system. As the tendency of hot wat«r is to flow more 
 rapidly in the risers than in the horizontal pipes, gate valves should 
 be placed on each riser in the cellar, so that the supply may be reduced 
 if required. Do not fail to provide a stop cock on each riser, so that 
 in the event of a leak the one riser in fault can be shut off and drained 
 without disturbing the efficiency of the balance of the system. Radia- 
 tors should be connected to the supply valve and return elbow by means 
 of unions ; the radiators may thus be readily disconnected when de- 
 sired. With hot water heating the temperature of the house can be 
 perfectly regulated to suit all weather conditions, either by means of 
 the fire in the heater or the valves on the radiators. , The only objec- 
 tions that can be urged against hot-water heating are the increased first 
 cost, the danger from freezing (when neglected), the space occupied by 
 the radiators, and the fact that a building cannot be as quickly warmed 
 .by hot water as by steam. 
 
 Steam and Hot= Water Boilers Boilers are made of 
 
 wrought and cast iron in 
 a variety of types, the cast iron sectional pattern being most generally 
 used. Portable boilers do not require a brick setting, and are readily 
 repaired. The successful working of a steam or hot-water system de- 
 pends largely upon the proper construction and efficiency of the boiler. 
 The type of boiler in which the most powerful circulation is maintained 
 with the least consumption of fuel is the most satisfactory as well as 
 
31 
 
 the cheapest. See that the boiler capacity is carefully proportioned to 
 the work required, and that all parts are readily accessible for cleaning 
 and repairs. In any of the above mentioned systems, risers, when cov- 
 ered, may be concealed in the walls or partitions, or exposed in the rooms 
 near the walls and finished like the radiators. 
 
 Radiators Radiators are made of cast and sheet iron in sections 
 of various widths, heights and patterns. They should 
 be of even thickness, smooth and nicely finished on the inside. The 
 value of the radiator depends upon its having free, unobstructed pas- 
 sages for the circulation of the steam or hot water, upon the amount 
 of surface psesented directly to the surrounding air, and upon the exact- 
 ness of the reaming, tapping and machining of its sections. All radia- 
 tors should be ornamental as well as practicable. Hot water radiators 
 have the same appearance as steam radiators, with the difierence that 
 hot water radiators are connected at the top and bottom and steam 
 radiators at the bottom only. Radiators should, as far as possible, 
 be placed close to outer doorways, along exposed walls, in vestibules, 
 halls, or under windows, where the radiators can most quickly combat 
 the effects of the outer chill. Before radiators and exposed pipes are 
 bi^onzed, gilded, or finished to match room decorations, they should be 
 given a coat of white lead and turpentine (no oil) to fill the pores in 
 the iron and insure a smooth finish. All exposed risers passing through 
 the floors or wahs should be protected with metal tubes, with nickel- 
 plated floor and ceiling plates. 
 
 Wall Radiators This form of radiator, on account of its greater 
 exposure to the air, is extensively used for hot 
 water and steam heating, especially where utility, efficiency and economy 
 of space are desirable; the large cross tubes and smaller intersecting 
 tubes insure perfect circulation and an absence of air binding under all 
 conditions. 
 
 Sheet Metal Radiators Floor and wall radiators are now 
 
 made of stamped sheet steel, copper 
 or brass, solderless-joined. These radiators are light, durable and 
 strong, and, owing to the small amount of metal used, they occupy less 
 space for the same number of feet of radiation than cast iron radiators, 
 and can be more readily heated. 
 
 Boiler and Pipe Covering Unless the cellar is large and 
 
 open, so that the heat radiated 
 from the boiler will assist in keeping the first floor warm, it is advocated 
 that the boiler be covered with asbestos cement. Steam and hot water 
 mains radiate more heat in proportion to their surface than do the 
 radiators which they supply, and unless this heat is needed for warming 
 the space through which the pipes pass, it represents a loss of 
 fuel To reduce this loss to a minimum it is customary also to cover 
 all pipes in unfinished basements with some insulating substance. The 
 saving in fuel effected by a good covering will more than pay its cost 
 in a few seasons. In general the value of a covering depends on its 
 insulating qualities and its durability. An incombustible substance is 
 to be preferred to combustible material. Wool felt covering is 
 extensively used, however, on hot water pipes, but is usually short-lived 
 
3* 
 
 on steam pipes. These coverings should be, in all cases, of sectional 
 form, covered with canvas and made to fit different sizes of pipe. After 
 the sections are applied they are commonly secured by brass lacquered 
 bands. The elbows, etc., are usually plastered with plastic asbestos and 
 then covered with canvas applied with paste. 
 
 Automatic Heat Regulators For comfort and fuel economy 
 
 a practical automatic temper- 
 ature regulator should be installed; one which will reliably control the 
 temperature of the house, and at the same time be low in cost and read- 
 ily attachable to any new or old furnace, steam or hot-water boiler. 
 
 Loss of Heat A greater loss of heat will be found where the wall 
 is plastered on brick or stone than where it is strip- 
 ped out and the plastering done on lath ; there is also a greater loss in 
 a frame house where no building felt has been used over the sheathing. 
 In most sections of this country at least io% more heat loss is to be 
 expected from a northern or western exposure. 
 
 Hot=Air Heating Select a furnace of sufficient size, and have 
 
 flues and registers of proper dimensions, keep- 
 ing in mind the fact that air is not heated by radiation, but by contact 
 with the surfaces of the furnace, thus making it necessary, in order to 
 secure the most economical results, to have a large area of heating sur- 
 face so placed as to permit the passage of th€ fresh air over it. Cast 
 iron, on account of its durability and freedom from rust attack, is fast 
 coming into general use in the construction of furnaces. As plenty of 
 rise for the heating pipes is essential, the cellar depth should permit of 
 a clear space of at least twenty-four inches over the crown of the fur- 
 nace. Locate the furnace over a pit twenty inches deep, enclosed with 
 a four-inch brick wall equal to the diameter of the furnace base; locate 
 a nine-inch pier support in the centre of the pit and in such manner 
 that one corner will face a twenty-four-inch-by-twenty-inch brick 
 cold air duct. This duct should run under the finished cellar 
 floor and be comiected to either a north or a west window by 
 means of a galvanized iron cold-air chamber, supplied with a damper 
 to control the air supply when the window is open. A metal shield 
 should be suspended from the under side of the first floor joists over 
 the heater to protect the woodwork. It is advisable to encase the fur- 
 nace with asbestos plaster and to cover all cellar pipes and partition 
 flues with heavy asbestos paper. All hot-air flues should be placed in 
 inside partitions as near the furnace as practicable. In addition to cov- 
 ering these flues, all adjoining wood construction should be encased 
 with tin. Expanded metal or wire lath for plastering should be used 
 where flues occur. Double flues (with an air space between) cover the 
 weak points of ordinary pipes, but are a trifle more costly. A flue sup- 
 plying heat to rooms one above another, should be graduated and pro- 
 vided with dampers. Registers should not be placed near windows, nor 
 where doors will swing against them. Convex registers are to be pre- 
 ferred, as they deliver more air than flat registers. The dampers in 
 cellar pipes should be close' to the furnace and suitably tagged. The 
 dampers and shut-ofEs in all registers must respond actively. Register 
 faces should match the finish of the surrounding hardware and lighting 
 
33 
 
 fixtures. If obnoxious gas fumes are detected in any room, it is a sure 
 indication that the furnace drum is punctured. In the spring, it is but 
 a matter of ordinary precaution to see that the furnace is in proper con- 
 dition for instant use in the early fall, also that it has been thoroughly 
 •cleaned, the smoke pipe emptied of soot, and the flues and other parts 
 well looked into. Much discomfort and not a little expense may be 
 saved by timely forethought. 
 
 Stove Heated Houses The majority of village houses are 
 
 stove heated, though often very poorly. 
 The halls are always cold, and, even in a room containing a stove, the 
 iloors are from six to eight degrees colder than the temperature five 
 feet above. To reduce to a minimum these harmful defects, which are 
 due to defective arrangement, it is necessary to have an air shaft of 
 suitable size connected with the chimney, and opening into the room at 
 the floor level. Stove-heated houses would be better heated if a stove 
 were located in the hall on the first floor, so that the heat would go up 
 the stairway naturally and take away the chill from the upper bedrooms. 
 
 Ranges The space below the point where the range smoke-pipe 
 enters the flue should be closed off, so as not to allow more 
 than one foot for the accumulation of soot. In well equipped kitchens 
 hoods are placed over the range to gather the steam and other odors 
 and carry them off through a ventilating register near the ceiling into a 
 separate flue. The range should always be set on a slate or other in- 
 combustible hearth, and always adjoining a brick or other fire-proof par- 
 tition, never against or alongside a studded partition. It is best to 
 locate a range or flue on the rear outside wall, in order to avoid the heat- 
 ing of any room in the summer time. 
 
 Fuel Economizers The smoke pipe from any new or old range, 
 
 furnace, hot-water or steam boiler may be 
 provided with a practical, strong and durable type of fuel economizer; 
 one which is low in cost, quickly installed and easily operated. A de- 
 vice constructed of cast and malleable iron is recommended, which tele- 
 scopes in as a short separate section of the smoke pipe and effects per- 
 fect draft control and combustion, with a large saving in the consump- 
 tion of fuel. 
 
 Instantaneous Water Heaters After an instantaneous au- 
 tomatic gas water heater 
 has been installed, the turning of a hot water faucet anywhere in the 
 house brings, in thirty seconds, a flow of hot water that will continue as 
 long as the faucet remains open. It eliminates the necessity of depending 
 upon the operation of the kitchen range for the hot water supply. It can 
 be as readily removed from a rented house as any piece of furniture. The 
 heater is set up in the cellar, or any other convenient place, where a vent 
 pipe can be attached to a flue and the water connections made so that 
 all water desired to be heated must pass through the heater; the gas, 
 either artificial or natural, is connected to the burner ; the pilot is lighted, 
 and the heater is ready for work with a moderate consumption of gas. 
 By means of the thermal regulation of the gas, the heater can be used 
 as an auxiliary to a tank heated by a coal range or house heater. 
 
34 
 
 Artificial Lighting As a matter of fact, a considerable part of 
 
 the usefulness of a house comes at night, 
 and the problem of artificial lighting is thus a very important one. 
 In good artificial lighting, the illumination of objects must be as strong 
 as possible, while the intensity or brilliancy of the lights themselves 
 must be low. It is prudent to wire the house for electric lighting and 
 at the same time to pipe for gas even though the locality affords no 
 plant. The location and position of lights and switches should not be 
 left to chance, but should be determined by the likely arrangement of 
 the furniture and the swing of the door. Fixtures for gas, electricity 
 or in combination, are as skillfully designed as the larger features of the 
 home. Side brackets in bedrooms are preferable and more economical 
 than chandeliers. Bracket outlets in bedrooms should be five feet 
 above the finished floor and six feet elsewhere. Ceiling fixtures (not 
 over a table) should be so hung that all metal parts will not be le^s than 
 six feet four inches from the floor. 
 
 Electric Wiring in all wiring special attention must be paid to 
 the size of conductors as well as to the mechan^ 
 ical execution of the work. Careful and neat running, connecting, 
 soldering, taping of conductors, and securing the attaching of fittings, 
 are especially conducive to security and efficiency. As weatherproof or 
 rubber-covered wire should never be run directly on stone, brick or con- 
 crete walls, it is necessary in such places to run the wires in conduits of 
 specially lined iron pipe, treated with insulating material. 
 
 Location of Lights, Switches, Etc. indicate distinctly 
 
 where cut-out cabi- 
 nets are to be placed, also location of main line cut-out switch. Deter- 
 mine the location of all switches controlling lights, as well as the 
 kind of switches and the number of lights required at each outlet. 
 
 Switches Switches are used for opening or closing a circuit at will, 
 other than at the fixture ; it is also practicable to con- 
 trol one or a group of fixtures from two or more places. Thus, by two 
 three-point switches and proper wiring, a lamp may be lighted or turned 
 off from either the first or second story at will. For controlling lamps 
 from one point, in domestic work, snap and push-button switches are 
 used. A push-button flush switch should be used where a neat appearance 
 is desirable ; in places where this is of no importance, or where economy 
 is desired, a snap switch is used. Snap switches should be mounted on 
 neat wood mats, finished to match the surrounding woodwork, and flush 
 switches should be set in iron boxes and finished to match the surround- 
 ing hardware. Knife switches should always be installed where the wires 
 enter the building, and should be enclosed in an iron box. 
 
 National Electric Code Before paying for your system of 
 
 wiring, insist upon receiving a certifi- 
 cate of inspection from the local office of the National Board of Fire 
 Underwriters, which have a prepared code of rules and requirements 
 with which all interior wiring must comply, if it is desired to obtain in- 
 surance on the building or power from the local electric light plant. 
 
3S 
 
 These rules are kept constantly corrected in accordance with the latest 
 discoveries in precautions for safety. 
 
 Gas Piping Gas pipes should never project more than one inch 
 from the finished plaster line, nor be placed at the 
 bottom of floor joists, where they cannot be examined. The feed of gas 
 should always be upward, except in the case of drop lights. Ordinary 
 wrought iron pipe is suitable and proper for all kinds of gas. All branch 
 outlet pipes should be taken from the sides or tops of running lines. 
 Bracket pipes should be run up from below, not dropped from overhead. 
 Never drop a centre pipe from the bottom of a running line ; always take 
 such an outlet from the side of the pipe. The system of piping must 
 be free from low places or traps, and decline toward the main 
 rising pipe, so that any condensed gas will flow back through the system 
 and into the service pipe in the ground. Always use fittings in making 
 turns. Support all pipes at intervals to prevent sagging. After a sys- 
 tem of gas piping is installed, and before any lighting fixtures are placed 
 in position, the piping should be proved to be absolutely air-tight and 
 gas-tight under a pressure of air that will raise and retain a column of 
 mercury in a glass tube without falling. 
 
 Electric Gas Lighting it is not advisable, and in some sec- 
 tions it is prohibited, to use a system 
 of electric gas lighting in conjunction with electric lighting. When elec- 
 tric gas lighting is installed the automatic pushes should be located with 
 special reference to convenience. Automatic burners, on account of the 
 possibility of their turning on the gas and not lighting, should be used 
 with caution, and key or indicating hand lighting burners should be used 
 in place of ratchet burners. The system should be carefully wired with 
 rubber-covered wire and an automatic sectional cut-out used. 
 
 Bells The expense of providing a convenient bell system is so trivial 
 that there should be no excuse for omitting it. All wiring 
 should be done before the house is lathed. It is customary to provide 
 a buzzer in the kitchen, to operate from a floor push or by means of an 
 extension cord fastened to the underside of the table. Jointless- 
 twin conductor weatherproof covered wire should be used in installing 
 the system, and the highest grade of bell will be found to be the cheap- 
 est. If an annunciator is required, use only an automatic set-back pat- 
 tern. As "dry" batteries require no attention until worn out, they are 
 to be preferred to "wet" batteries for operating the system. 
 
 Teleohones Inter-communicating telephones are popular, conve- 
 nient and easily installed. It is prudent to consider 
 the location of outside telephones and to make arrangements with the 
 local company, for running wires before the house is lathed. 
 
 Domestic Gas Plants The process for safely making at a low 
 *^" cost, for domestic purposes, a uniform, 
 
 quality of gas, capable of being supplied to the house through ordinary 
 eas piping, consists in having a current of atmospheric _ air pass over 
 or come in contact with a body of gasoline, the latter being one of the 
 licrhtest products of the distillation of petroleum. The blower can be 
 
36 
 
 located in any convenient part of the cellar, requiring, in the average 
 size machine, a space not more than six feet square. The carburetter 
 is usually buried underground outside of the building. No fire or heat 
 is used in the manufacturing process, and there is no more danger in 
 the use of the gas manufactured than in the use of ordinary coal gas. 
 As there is a growing demand for a moderate-priced machine, be careful 
 to select one that has a record for long and creditable service, which 
 bas been approved and accepted by the National Board of Fire Under- 
 writers, and which for reliability, economy, safety, simplicity and dura- 
 bility, meets all demands for lighting, cooking and fuel purposes. 
 
 Acetylene For general house lighting, acetylene is gradually gain- 
 ing in favor. It is a colorless, transparent gas, which 
 burns steadily with greater brilliancy, more diffusiveness and higher illu- 
 minating power than any other illuminant, and is the cheapest known 
 means of artificial illumination.. There is no danger of asphyxiation, 
 and there is besides, the least vitiation of atmosphere. As the required 
 piping is simple and inexpensive, consideration should be given to secur- 
 ing a generator which is safe and simple in construction, positive and 
 reliable in operation and moderate in cost 
 
 Self=Lighting Mantles The introduction of a durable type of 
 
 self-lighting incandescent mantle for 
 gas illumination has greatly added, to the comforts of the home. A 
 low-priced automatic method of obtaining increased illumination with 
 economy is thus provided, and with the possibility of asphyxiation fully 
 prevented. 
 
 Private Water Supply The location of the source of water 
 
 supply with reference to the house 
 and grounds decides generally the question whether a gravity supply 
 is feasible or whether water must be pumped. Where a small stream 
 of water, having a fall of five feet or more, flows near the premises, a 
 hydraulic ram may be used to great advantage ; another common method 
 is to drive a well to such a depth as to insure a sufficient supply when 
 pumped; or roof water may be collected in a cistern. If water from 
 a well or a spring is to be used it should first be carefully analyzed. 
 When it becomes necessary to pump the water, there are many machines 
 from which to choose: pumps operated by manual labor, those run by 
 anifnal power, pumping machinery using the power of the wind or that 
 of falling or running water. Then there are hot air, steam and elec- 
 tric pumps, besides several forms of internal combustion engines, such 
 as gas, gasoline and oil engines. Each has advantages in certain loca- 
 tions under certain conditions, and should be installed only by reliable 
 and experienced parties. 
 
 Rams The hydraulic ram combines a motor and a pump in one appa- 
 ratus ; the cost of installation is small ; it works continuously, 
 is simple and efficient, requires no lubrication, little attendance and few 
 repairs. 
 
37 
 
 Windmills The power of the wind, applied through a windmill, 
 is much used for driving pumps. The modern wind- 
 mill is provided with improved forms of wheels constructed of wood 
 or steel, with a number of impulse blades ; also with automatic devices 
 arranged to regulate the speed, to turn the wheel out of the wind during 
 gales and storms, and to stop the mill when the storage tank is filled. 
 Galvanized windmills and windmill towers are used almost exclusively, 
 although those of a wooden type, if of simple, solid and durable con- 
 struction, can be depended upon to give many years of excellent service. 
 Care should be taken to have the windmill of sufficient size, varying 
 according to the distance the water is to be pumped, the amount re- 
 quired, and the height to which it is to be elevated. The centre of the 
 wind wheel in all cases should be at least fifteen feet above any sur- 
 rounding obstacles, such as buildings or trees. 
 
 Water Lifts City water pressure can be economically used as a 
 power to operate automatically a hydraulic pumping 
 engine to elevate cistern or well water either to an attic tank or direct 
 to the house service pipe, or, for forcing the city water to a higher point 
 than it will flow of its own pressure. This system is absolutely noise- 
 less and clean, and, once properly installed, requires practically no atten- 
 tion. It can be arranged to start and stop automatically as the demand 
 on the service may require. 
 
 Engines If water is not available, and wind is considered too unre- 
 liable, pumping must be accomplished by using an engine 
 which derives its energy from the combustion of some form of fuel. A 
 favorite and extensively used type of pump is the hot-air engine, abso- 
 lutely safe, requiring little attention, having no valves, springs or gauges 
 to get out of order, and adapted for such fuel as coal, coke, wood, gas 
 or kerosene oil. Where a gas supply is available, the gas engine is 
 very convenient, for, once started, it will run for hours without atten- 
 tion It is economical in the consumption of gas and gives trouble 
 only where the quality of gas varies. Gasoline and oil engines are 
 becoming very popular; they resemble the gas engme, but differ from it 
 in using a liquid fuel which is volatilized by a sprayer. Oil engines are 
 particularly suitable in regions where coal and wood are costly to obtain 
 The best types are those so designed and constructed that any unskilled 
 attendant can run, adjust and clean them. Where electric current is 
 eSoyed for lighting/electric motors can be used to operate the pump 
 Motor-driven pumps are convenient to operate, clean, economical, and 
 Sn be arranged to start, stop, and operate automatically. _ Such equip- 
 ments can be^arranged to operate at various speeds if desired, thus en- 
 S Z motor-driven outfit to supply water, in emergencies like fires, 
 fn?r!ater volume than is ordinarily required. The perfection of elec- 
 in_ ^'^^^^^'^7°'" instructed by reliable manufacturers, is such that thor- 
 ^''^'^ .Sfactorv serv-ce can be secured even when the motors are 
 SSS n dwdS or other places where it is not possible to give these 
 equipments the attention ordinarily demanded. 
 
38 
 
 Water Tanks and Tank Towers Where the pressure in 
 
 the street main is not 
 great enough to furnish a sufficient volume of water for supplying th€ 
 fixtures at all times, or in case of a private water supply, a tank should 
 be provided at an elevation of at least six feet above the highest fixture. 
 This is assuming the tank to be close to the house; if it stands some 
 distance away the height must be increased to allow for the greater 
 friction in the pipes. If the water is to be used for fire protection the 
 tank should be placed fifteen or twenty feet higher than the house, when 
 it stands close to the house ; and the same allowance must be 
 made, as referred to above, if the tank is removed to some distance. 
 Wooden tanks are used more extensively than any other kind, and the 
 best tanks are constructed of cypress, which is noted for its remarkable 
 durability. Wooden tanks should never be lined with sheet lead, zinc 
 or galvanized iron when the water is to be used for drinking and cook- 
 ing purposes. In fact it is becoming an obsolete practice to line them 
 at all. It is almost impossible to repair such a tank once it springs a leak. 
 A steel tank is commonly installed when the tank is intended to be used 
 only during a part of the time, and to stand empty when not in use. A 
 steel tank should not be used at all where the condition of the water, or 
 of the atmosphere, is such as to rust out steel quickly. Tanks should be 
 covered to prevent the accumulation of dirt, leaves, etc., and to prevent a 
 wood tank from drying out at the top quickly when the water gets low in 
 the tank. If the tank is to be exposed to the cold, the cover, or roof, is a 
 protection, and will be rendered more effective by having it shingled over, 
 or covered with some standard roofing material. Inside of this cover a 
 ceiling should be constructed across the top of tank with two or three 
 thicknesses of heavy tarred building paper over it. The bottom of the 
 tank should also be protected by an air-tight compartment, constructed 
 on the same principles. The principal difficulty is in protecting the pipes. 
 The most approved method is to use an especially heavy hair felt and 
 sectional asbestos covering, put on with tar, over the pipes, and then 
 enclosing them in well constructed tight boxing built in two or three sec- 
 tions, one inside the other. Application should be made to some reliable 
 tank builder for full information on this subject; and the best results 
 will be obtained by intrusting such work to concerns who have made a 
 success of it. A one and one-half inch galvanized pipe for ordi- 
 nary conditions is a suitable size for tanks of one thousand or 
 fifteen hundred gallons ; two-inch, for five thousand gallons ; 
 and three-inch for ten thousand gallons. It is better and more 
 economical (where it is necessary to protect the pipes from freezing, 
 by boxing them in) to have the several pipes go up through the bot- 
 tom of the tank side by side. It is desirable to have the discharge 
 pipe extend up through the bottom of the tank about four inches 
 to allow for the sediment collecting in the bottom of the tank. If an 
 overflow pipe is used, it should be extended up as high as possible. 
 Quite often one pioe is used for both supply and discharge, and suitable 
 connections are made at the ground so that this can be done. The over- 
 flow pipe is very often omitted and an indicator or tell-tale used to de- 
 note the height of the water in the tank. The tank supports should be of 
 the most substantial construction, and if built of frame by the local car- 
 penter, it is advisable to secure plans from an architect, engineer or tank 
 
39 
 
 builder, to be certain of having the structure of proper strength and 
 stability, bteel towers, however, are g-enerally used, as they last much 
 longer and are more economical in the end. The^amage resulting from 
 the collapse of a tank and tower structure is apt to^ very serious and alll 
 due precaution should be taken to avoid such an accident by dealing only^ 
 with thoroughly competent and experienced firms. Steel towers built with 
 tubular columns are very extensively used ; others are constructed with 
 angle columns. These towers are generally supplied with a balcony 
 of a hand railing to afford ready access to the tank. 
 
 Pressure Tanks An ingenious, practical, and economically main- 
 , tained system of water storage and pressure, is 
 
 that in which compressed air is used to effect the distribution of the 
 water supply. In every manner this system affords the conveniences 
 of a city water supply, and on account of the obtainable high pressure, 
 assures splendid fire protection. An average pressure of about forty 
 pounds may be had under ordinary conditions, which pressure will 
 readily deliver water to points eighty-five feet above tank. A cylindrical, 
 air-tight steel tank is placed in the cellar or buried in the ground, thus 
 coming naturally between the source of the supply and the distributing 
 branches, and insuring the delivery throughout the year of aerated and 
 uncontaminated water at the same temperature as the well, cistern or 
 other source of supply. The piping connections are made at the under- 
 side or bottom of the tank near its ends; one line leading to the house 
 and the other to the pump at the source of supply. The pump is fitted 
 with either an automatic or a hand air valve, and may be used with deep 
 or shallow, bored or driven well ; also for drawing water from a spring 
 or lake. The pump can be operated by hand, or by windmill, or by any 
 pattern of pumping engine. Many styles and sizes of pneumatic outfits 
 adapted to varied requirements, are manufactured, and it is advisable 
 to consult some reliable and experienced firm, whose specialty consists in 
 supplying guaranteed pneumatic tanks and supplies. 
 
 Cesspools In localities where no regular sewage system is provided 
 with which drains from the house may be connected, 
 it is necessary to construct, not less than twenty-five feet distant from 
 the house, at the lowest point of the natural slope of the ground, a deep, 
 dry laid, stone well, connected by terra cotta soil pipe to the main house 
 drain. In closely built-up localities it is pteferable to provide a dry 
 laid well, and also a cement laid and lined well, connected by means of a 
 six-inch iron pipe having a slight upward slant towards the cemented 
 well. Wells should have a cement laid brick crown, drawn in over the 
 top, and provided with a suitable manhole frame and cover, placed level 
 with the finished grade, unless it is desired to grow a lawn over the well, 
 in which case the manhole frame and cover shall be two feet below grade. 
 
 DiSDOSal of Garbage I" localities where there is no systematic 
 
 method of collecting garbage, the refuse is 
 best disposed of by burning. An incinerator may be installed at small 
 expense, wherever a flue connection can be conveniently obtained. All 
 garbage is conveyed into this incinerator,' and, in a short time after a fire, 
 is started, is effectively destroyed without odors. 
 
40 
 
 Plumbing No part of the construction of the house is so likely to 
 be slighted and to be of inferior quality as that part of 
 the plumbing system which is not exposed ; at the same time the exposed 
 work may present so attractive an appearance that the occupants of the 
 house are misled and rest secure in the thought that the plumbing of 
 their home is perfect in every way. A sanitary house is not necessarily 
 more costly at first hand than an unsanitary one ; and in the end it is 
 much less costly, for doctors' bills are the most expensive of all im- 
 provements.' If a house is to be vacated for a long period, the water 
 traps are bound to evaporate and permit sewer gas to permeate the 
 house. This can be greatly reduced by the use of common kerosene 
 oil, which evaporates very slowly and will not freeze ; in most cases, if 
 desired, it can be recovered. Fixtures were formerly hidden in ill- 
 ventilated, poorly-lighted, out-of-the-way places, and used only as 
 necessities, but thev now occupy a prominent place in the households of 
 the intelligent. The improvements in fixtures consist chiefly of the 
 following: (i) the substituting of porcelain enameled ware for the 
 plain iron, copper, earthenware and wood formerly used; (2) the pro- 
 hibiting of all mechanical closets, with their large fouling chambers, and 
 the adopting, instead, of closet bowls, with traps combined, that are 
 vitreous, non-corrosive and non-absorbent, both inside and outside, with 
 low, natural seats sloping from front to rear; (3) the connecting of all 
 waste pipes from fixtures with traps placed close to the fixtures ; and, 
 (4) the setting of all fixtures open instead of boxed in wood, thus doing 
 away with the old-fashioned incubators for vermin and catchalls for 
 filth. All connections of the waste to fixtures should be made of lead, 
 so that expansion or contraction of pipes, or shrinkage of joists, will 
 not break the fixture. Beware of the practice of partly filling the hub 
 of a cast iron soil pipe with lead and afterwards filling in with putty. 
 Care should be taken that vent pipes have no low point Tvhere condensa- 
 tion can collect and reduce the capacity of the pipe. In no case should 
 branches be taken out from the vent .pipe below the top of the fixture. 
 Hot water pipes should parallel cold water pipes to all fixtures and the 
 hot water arranged to operate on the left hand outlet. All supply pipes 
 should be so arranged that when the main cut-off from the street sup- 
 ply or tank is closed, and all fixtures are turned on, and a cock opened, 
 every drop of water in the system will be drained off by gravity. The 
 cost of piping for and setting cheap fixtures is as great as for the better 
 class. Any fixture flush-tank of a less capacity than seven gallons is 
 useless, and cheap supply and flush valves are expensive. In order to 
 avoid the annoyance of a warped or split closet seat, select a pattern 
 which is doweled together. The selection of fixtures should not be left 
 to the contractor or plumber, but superintended in person from stocks 
 displayed in the show-rooms of representative supply houses. A per- 
 fect system of plumbing should have : ( i ) an adequate supply of water 
 sufficient in volume and pressure to flush the various fixtures ; (2) fix- 
 tures made of vitreous porcelain, or porcelain enameled iron, set open 
 and located in well-lighted, properly-ventilated rooms ; (3) waste pipes 
 large enough to carry off all waste matter discharged into them, yet not 
 too large to be self-cleansing; (4) ventilation so planned that it will 
 ventilate properly every portion of the drainage system; (5) piping of 
 
41 
 
 such quality that it will neither corrode nor be affected by sudden 
 Changes of temperature, and the joints of which can be made as strong as 
 
 system that will discharge by gravity; (7) a system uniformly supported 
 throughout Its entire extent, that can neither settle, swing nor pull on 
 any of its branches; (8) a system of installation that provides turns and 
 off-sets of easy angles, that connects its branches at such an angle as 
 trot to interrupt the flow of sewage in the main, and that provides clean- 
 outs at such pomts that the inside of the drainage system is accessible 
 throughout its entire extent. 
 
 Supply Pipes These pipes may be of lead, brass, galvanized iron, 
 tin-lined lead, or block tin. Although lead pipe is 
 considered more durable underground, yet for this as well as all other pur- 
 poses, galvanized iron pipe is more extensively used. There is no ob- 
 jection to having a supply pipe larger than is really necessary, except 
 from the standpoint of cost. Service-pipes should always be one size 
 larger than the tap in the street main. Splashing of water at the spigots 
 and hammering in the pipes indicate that the water pressure is very 
 high, and that a practical water reducing valve is required. 
 
 -Soil Pipes All pipes should be laid so that they will drain them- 
 selves, a small pipe having a greater fall than a large 
 one. Iron pipes should be used inside and to a distance of five feet 
 from the outside wall of the house ; beyond this point it is economical to 
 use salt glazed vitrified clay pipe, which is impervious to the action of 
 acids, gases, steam, etc., and from which the glazing will not scale. 
 After all sewer, soil and vent pipes are in place, they should be tested by 
 plugging the bottom or main outlet and filling all pipes to the roof level 
 with water. 
 
 Waste Pipes and Traps A trap is a device which permits the 
 
 free passage of liquids and also of any 
 solid matters that may be carried by the liquid, while at the same time 
 preventing the passage of air or gas in either direction. When a consid- 
 erable body of water rushes down through a pipe it forms a suction, and 
 if the pipe is made air-tight this suction is often sufficient to prevent 
 ■enough water remaining in the trap to form a seal ; by connecting, how- 
 ever, the upper bend of the trap with the outside air by means of a vent 
 pipe, this suction will be prevented. The ornamental and enduring quali- 
 ties of seamless-drawn, nickel-silver tubing, which has a perfectly smooth 
 iinish, both inside and outside, render it peculiarly available for exposed 
 plumbing. Such tubing will not wear brassy and will never require to be 
 replaced. 
 
 Roof Flanges Adjustable cast iron roof flanges with copper flash- 
 ings which will fit any size of soil pipe or pitch of 
 roof are a decided advantage. They produce a neat appearance 
 and an absolutely tight joint with the soil pipe by a molten lead joint. 
 The sleeves are made large enough to slip over the bell end of the soil 
 pipe and are not fastened to the copper flange, thereby allowing for ex- 
 pansion and contraction. 
 
42 
 
 Bath Room Furnishings A combined portable vapor and per- 
 forated shower bath, with curtain 
 ring, duck curtain, rubber tube and faucet connections, provides a gicat 
 luxury for very little money. It can be readily installed in any size 
 of bath room over a new or old bathtub without additional plumb- 
 ing. The easily-washed, odorless duck curtain confines all the water m' 
 the tub and prevents slopping and damage to the finish of the room. 
 Other fittings consist of towel racks, bars, shelves and baskets, comb,, 
 brush, tumbler, sponge, match and paper holders, robe and tooth brush 
 racks, soap dishes, plate glass shelves, bath seats and rubber-rim grips. 
 A soft, sanitary rubber mat, which can be obtained in size to fit the bot- 
 tom of any tub, is useful to prevent dangerous falls. Such a mat not only 
 makes the tub safe for the older members of the family or invalids, but 
 adds to the comfort of every bather. For those who take a cold dip, or 
 shower, it prevents the sudden shock to the sensitive nerves of the feet,, 
 due to stepping on the cold porcelain surface of the tub. 
 
 Filters There are few cities in which the public water-supply is not 
 greatly improved by being filtered, and in many places filter- 
 ing is absolutely necessary. The filter should be portable, and large 
 enough so that the velocity of the water passing through it will be low. 
 The filter should be so arranged that the flow of water can be reversed 
 and the accumulated impurities washed into a waste-pipe. So-called 
 filters, made to screw on the nozzle of a faucet, should be considered 
 merely as strainers. 
 
 Refrigerators Care should be taken to select a refrigerator simple 
 in its working, devoid of poisonous zinc lining, and 
 easily cleansed, as modern sanitary science has traced much sickness to 
 poor refrigeration. Thorough insulation is one of the most important 
 features in a refrigerator ; upon this depends economy in the use of ice, 
 the keeping of the air at a low temperature, and the consequent perfect 
 preservation of the food. No waste pipe from a refrigerator should be 
 connected with any drain, soil or other waste pipe. The refrigerator 
 should be drained into an open fixture, properly trapped. 
 
 Clothes Dryers The clothes dryer is one of the requisites of the 
 Ijgpjr modern home. It consists usually of a cabinet 
 
 seven TEBnca long, seven feet high, and about thirty inches wide, having' 
 racks upon which the wet clothes are hung. These racks are arranged 
 to slide in and out. The dryer is customarily placed in the laundry, 
 with a coal stove attached upon which to heat irons and at the same 
 time circulate warm air through the clothes, drying them in fifteen min- 
 utes. The same stove will also heat water by attaching its water-back 
 to the kitchen tank or to a separate tank placed alongside. Dryers are 
 also made to use gas as fuel, and may be placed in any vacant space 
 in the basement. For conveniently drying clothes on the lawn, roof 
 or balcony, select a revolving pattern of dryer, which requires but little 
 space, holds about one hundred and fifty feet of line and folds up com- 
 pletely for removal when not in use. 
 
43 
 
 Lightning Conductors Exposed structures should be provided 
 
 with sharp, platinum pointed lightning 
 conductors in connection with a lightning indicator, such as recommended 
 by United States Government experts. Either copper rods or tape will 
 serve the purpose, but jointless copper cable, though more costly, is less 
 easily corroded and will last longer. Conductors should be securely 
 fastened with special cast copper and bronze alloy anchors or screw 
 fasteners. The ground end of a conductor should be suitably connected 
 to copper resistance ground plates of ample dimensions buried at from 
 15 feet to 25 feet in permanently moist earth. Lightning conductors 
 should be tested for their conductivity at least twice each year. Chain 
 or link conductors should never be used. 
 
 Mineral Wool The properties which commend the use of mineral 
 wool in building are particularly in the direction of 
 insulation of heat, protection against frost, fire-proofing, elimination of 
 sound, and protection against rats, mice and insects. Wherever mineral 
 wool is used in bulk, it must be held by some retaining support or casing. 
 
 Fire Protection No house, however well built, is absolutely proof 
 against fire, and even if it were, every house con- 
 tains quantities of inflammable materials, such as furniture, curtains, and 
 clothing, which are in danger from the heater, from carelessness in the 
 kitchen, or the improper insulation of the electric wiring. It is essential 
 therefore, that every home, no matter where located, should be provided 
 with hand grenades and some simple, reliable, effective, portable, chemi- 
 cal fire extinguisher, which has been examined and approved under the 
 standards of the National Board of Fire Underwriters. The extinguisher 
 should be kept in a convenient and central location, such as the rear end 
 of the main hall. Grenades, in wire baskets holding two or three 
 grenades each, should be hung on the wall in the upper hall, kitchen and 
 cellar. 
 
 Hardware All visible hardware should be in harmoriy with the gen- 
 eral scheme of decoration. Its selection demands the 
 same personal care given to the other elements of interior decoration. 
 Cylinder locks afford the greatest security possible with any key lock 
 adapted to practical use, and should be used on all important outside 
 doors. All bed room and bath room doors should have in addition to, or 
 combined with the door lock, a mortise bolt operated by a small knob. 
 Closet doors should have a knob on both sides, so that the door may be 
 opened from the inside in case it is accidentally closed while a person is in 
 the closet. As the butts carry the whole weight of a door and are in con- 
 stant use it would be false economy to select any of a cheap, small or 
 inferior type. "Loose-pin" butts are the most practical, allowing doors 
 to be readily unhinged. Pivot floor hinges are very desirable for double-* 
 acting doors Ball-bearing and invisible hinges have many points to 
 commend them. Sash locks, to be effective, must furmsh protec- 
 tion minimize air leaks and prevent rattling. Consideration should be 
 eiven to a pattern which is quickly applied and operated, and is a safe- 
 guard for ventilating rooms as well as affording protection against in- 
 truders Basement windows, being hinged to swing and fasten open to 
 
44 
 
 the ceiling, require a catch which will effect a secure lock, pressing into 
 the frames and holding them in a tight grasp, thereby excluding the cold 
 air or snow even when the sash is loosely fitted. In connection with 
 double hung windows, flush sash lifts are most generally used. Door and 
 window stops should be put on with finished screws and washers. Slid- 
 ing doors should be hung from the top by hangers which roll on a track 
 secured to the inside of the studding or hung from a header above the 
 opening and pocket. The front door push button should be on the side 
 of the doorknob, and so located as to be convenient of access when the 
 screen door is closed. Wooden base knobs, with inserted rubber tips fin- 
 ished to match the surrounding woodwork, are in general use, but seam-^ 
 less metal base knobs and floor stops, with inserted rubber tips finished 
 to match the hardware, although more costly, add a decided feature to 
 the interior finish of the house. Provide the lid of a seat which is re- 
 quired to be raised, with a flush finger lift having no projection which 
 might cause accident or injury. 
 
 3ash Pulleys Sash pulleys should be of a simple, indestructible 
 pattern, easily applied, and should be provided with 
 a wheel of sufficient size, having a durable and smooth running axle with 
 broad bearings. Side sash pulleys have a cast, wrought iron or pressed 
 steel frame, with a finished round or square end face plate and a cast iron 
 or pressed metal wheel working on an axle. The principal advantage 
 of an overhead pulley for double hung windows is that there is eight 
 inches more play for the weights than is afforded by the side pulley; 
 also that the wheel is not exposed, and there is no opening to be seen. 
 The overhead pulley is especially convenient for mullion windows, 
 doing away with the pockets in the mullion; moreover, only a two-inch 
 strip is required, thereby saving in the cost of millwork. 
 
 Sash Weights The weights ordinarily used for balancing windows 
 are made of a cheap grade of cast iron, in the form 
 of a solid cylinder having a diameter equal to the thickness of the sash 
 used, each with an eye cast in its upper end for attaching the cord or 
 chain. It is necessary in some cases to use square iron or lead sash 
 weights. Sectional unit iron sash weights save the delay of waiting until 
 all sashes are glazed before ordering the necessary weights, because 
 every opening can be hung in succession, regardless of the variation in 
 weight required, the units readily making up any combination necessary 
 to balance the sash properly. Smooth finish compressed lead sash 
 weights, with wrought and malleable, secure, centered fastenings, are 
 no more expensive than ordinary cast lead weights. They are twice as 
 heavy as iron and occupy only half the space. In hanging sashes, the 
 weights for the upper sash should be about a half pound heavier than 
 the sash, and for the lower sash a half pound lighter. 
 
 Sash Cord For windows of an ordinary size, a standard type of 
 one-quarter inch braided cord will answer every pur- 
 pose. It will be found cheaper, however, and more satisfactory to hang 
 all sashes weighing over forty pounds with, flat-link chains made of 
 bronze metal. 
 
4S 
 
 Shutter Workers Select a pattern of shutter worker which will 
 
 automatically open, close, and lock the outside 
 shutters or blinds in any position desired without raising the window 
 sash, and which can be readily applied to any new or old brick, stone or 
 frame house. 
 
 Automatic Elevators Automatic electric elevators are very 
 
 simple to operate. There is a single 
 push button at each floor landing, and in the car there are several push 
 buttons, one for each floor. The car responds to the pressing of the but- 
 ton at any landing by coming to the landing and stopping itself there. 
 Until the eleVator has stopped, the door at the landing remains locked. 
 The doors at the other floor-landings remain locked altogether. Upon 
 entering the car, closing the door, and pressing one of the buttons the 
 car proceeds to the corresponding floor and stops there, releasing the 
 elevator door for exit. Until the passenger has passed out of the elevator 
 and has closed the door again, the car will not respond to any interfering 
 call. The current for operating this type of elevator may be derived from 
 any lighting circuit. Automatic electric dumb waiters are operated on 
 similar principles. 
 
 Wall Papers and Papering It has been said that the occu- 
 pants of a papered room live in a 
 poisoned environment, due to modern wall papers. This charge, how- 
 ever, is unfounded. At the present time it is very doubtful if arsenic is 
 used at all even in the cheapest papers, because much more brilliant 
 colorings can be obtained from the long array of aniline products de- 
 rived from coal tar, to say nothing of the many vegetable colors which 
 have been devised by the laboratories attached to establishments making 
 a business of preparing color materials and pigments for use in the arts. 
 Aniline is poisonous, but it has the advantage of being the most soluble 
 material known. At the present time aniline itself is being discarded, 
 owing to the bleaching effect of sunhght on aniline colors, and abso- 
 lutely permanent vegetable colorings are being used by almost all makers 
 of wall paper. The newest wall papers will not fade under direct sunlight 
 nor shed their coloring matter by disintegration of the sizing used, and 
 the papers cannot be considered as poisonous. Wall paper has much to do 
 with the fascination of indoors, and the house has yet to be found that 
 fails to respond to the influence of this valuable asset of the decorative 
 world The final selection should be made in the room in which the 
 paper is to be hung, not in the shop where the paper is sold. Full ap- 
 preciation of local requirements and demands, not the price, should gov- 
 ern the selection ; for in the treatment of the walls and ceilings lies much 
 of the success or failure in the outcome of the room. If the papering is 
 warm and bright, the room itself will surely be so ; while if the coloring 
 is in neutral tints, the room will have a dingy, faded look, which nothing 
 in the furnishing can recompense. A small room should not be treated 
 in sharolv contrasting colors ; color harmonies should be used The de- 
 K\m of the paper on a small room should not be too large or showy, nor 
 nn a large room too neat or trivial. Stripes running up and down make 
 the ceilino-s look higher. A room facing north, being deficient m sun- 
 
46 
 
 shine, should have sunshine in the paper, or the room will be cheerless. 
 For rooms with a northern exposure, the paper should be pink, red, 
 orange, yellow, or something in which these tones prevail. The less color 
 there is in the background of an inexpensive flowered paper the better 
 it wears. Small "allover" designs are inexpensive and well adapted for 
 attic rooms where the sloping ceilings require papering with the same 
 material as the side wall. Color is an important factor in adding to or 
 diminishing space, in making a room seem dark or light. A green room 
 is restful, a red, stimulating, a cold blue or drab, depressing, a clear 
 brown, quieting and soothing, and a yellow, cheerful. Red paper will 
 warm a cold room, blue will cool a warm one, and yellow will light up a 
 dark one. See that one tone predominates where the rooms open out on 
 each other. Who has not been struck by the kaleidoscope effect given 
 when entering a hall where a yellow room is on one side, a green on an- 
 other, a blue beyond that, and a red in another direction? Quiet color 
 harmony is what must be aimed at if the home is to have the atmosphere 
 of beauty and repose. One may have beautiful things, gems of art, 
 choice furniture and exquisite rugs, but they will count for nothing if 
 they fail of a background, and it is this that the treatment of our walls 
 must supply. Borders have gone to a well-merited oblivion. It is well 
 to run the wall paper up to the picture moulding and let the ceiling come 
 down to it, or to set the moulding up close to the ceiling, where it forms 
 a cornice, and run the paper from here to the surbase or wainscoting, if 
 there be any. It is almost the universal custom to apply figured papers to 
 the walls, with ceilings a plain tint of a lighter shade. Do not use a 
 strong, pronounced design on walls upon which delicate pictures, such as 
 etchings and water colors, are expected to hang; and remember that 
 papers decorated with gold, silver, bronze or micre, are likely to blacken, 
 or otherwise to act mischievously. Insist on new walls being carefully 
 sized and on old walls being thoroughly scraped, before the papering is 
 commenced. 
 
 Wall Coverings Lincrusta-Walton is a popular solid-relief wall 
 material which will not chip or break ; it is made 
 in imitation of silk fabrics, burlaps, carved wood, hand-tooled leather, 
 wood grains and treated metal. Leatherole is a novel, durable, and readily 
 applied wall covering, having a cloth foundation and high and low relief 
 patterns decorated in oil colors which will not fade. Pantasote is an 
 inexpensive material used for upholstery purposes; it wears and looks 
 like leather, is durable, bright and easily cleaned. Sanitas is a sanitary 
 waterproof wall covering which is applied to the wall like ordinary paper 
 and can be washed with soap and water. The merits of Fab-ri-ko-na for 
 decorative bases deserves attention from the fact that it can be put on as 
 soon as the newly plastered wall is dry ; it offers a surface that will stand 
 rough usage and wear for years ; it can be painted over, is readily cleaned, 
 and can be procured in numerous artistic colors and textures. With 
 Calcimo, a sanitary wall finish, it is possible to decorate economically and 
 artistically any rough or smooth plastered wall or ceiling in an extensive 
 variety of dark or light tints. 
 
47 
 
 Furnishing The standard of a really fine article is its lastingness. 
 The home should express in its arrangement, dec- 
 oration and furnishings, the character and taste of those who dwell in it. 
 Do not make the mistake of overcrowding a room or of using too many 
 •colors in decking it, and keep in mind that one good ornament is more to 
 "be desired than ten mediocre ones. Simplicity of arrangement is so 
 bound up with order and the absence of the superfluous that it cannot 
 well be separated. Color in its arrangement and tone quality has great 
 effect on the mind, and should have careful consideration from the 
 entrance of the house on throughout. Furniture built on simple lines 
 and upholstery sparingly used is an accepted law of artistic decoration. 
 Bear in mind that art in decoration does not mean cost of production. 
 Many householders are possessed of certain furnishings which, for rea- 
 sons of economy or from association, must be retained. When this is so, 
 these should be carefully looked over and mentally adjusted to the new 
 rooms. Having them well in mind, that scheme of finish and decoration 
 can be determined upon which will prove the best setting for them. Keep 
 comfort and durability in mind when making selections of furniture with 
 which to furnish the home. On account of the great variety of personal 
 tastes, it is manifestly impossible to enumerate all the desirable furnish- 
 ings in a home, but suggestive itemized lists of essentials for each room 
 are compiled and distributed by dealers, with a range of prices for various 
 grades of furniture, carpets, draperies, housefurnishings, linen, china, 
 silverware, etc., to assist those about to furnish or re-furnish their homes. 
 Modern fire-proof safes, to afford absolute security for documents, jew- 
 els or other valuables, are conveniently concealed in artistic and useful 
 pieces of furniture, such as desks, cellarettes, bookcases, work tables, etc. 
 
 Book= Cases Sectional unit or elastic book-cases with roller- 
 bearing, anti-f-rictiOn, disappearing, dustproof doors, 
 besides keeping books clean, are handsome, and have now become in- 
 dispensable for furnishing a library. On account of the various widths, 
 heights and finish of sections, bases and tops, it is advisable, when plans 
 for the library equipment are being outlined, to consult in advance with 
 dealers in such book-cases. 
 
 Pictures and Bric=a=Brac Upon the frame much of the suc- 
 cess or failure of a picture de- 
 pends • and a picture should not only be suitably framed, but suitably 
 placed It is a good rule in hanging pictures to hang the largest picture 
 of a group on a level with the eyes, placing the smaller ones about it 
 with reference to subjects rather than size. No part of a roon^ affords 
 a better setting for a fine picture than the space over the open fireplace. 
 Engravings and etchings are often better framed without a mat. For 
 a briehtlv colored water color, a simple, narrow, plam gold frame is to 
 be preferred. All pictures should be hung flat against the wall on wires 
 suspended from a hook attached to the picture mould The woodwork 
 and general tone of a room are important considerations, both in the 
 ihoice of the picture and the frame. The wall papers, the rugs the car- 
 pets the curtains, the portieres, the upholsteries, the color for the finish 
 of the interior woodwork, and the tintmg of the walls and the ceiling, are 
 
• matters of the greatest moment, but they are more often successfully 
 selected than the pictures and bric-a-brac. A judicious use of bric-a-brac 
 will materially add to the beauty of a room ; but in order that it may 
 rightly fulfill its office, it must be selected so as to harmonize with the 
 environment. 
 
 Floor Coverings These are the days of the rug and the polished 
 
 floor, in which everything is movable that 
 rests upon the floor, thus mitigating the horrors of house cleaning. 
 Rugs that are to be fastened are generally attached to the floor by 
 a device resembling the patent catch used on gloves. Rugs are in 
 vogue because they appropriately introduce color and are easily 
 handled and cleaned. The modern carpet has been transformed into 
 what is really a rug; the strips may be sewn together, and the border 
 may be attached, but the carpet is no longer a permanent part of the 
 floor. It is simply laid thereon after the fashion of a mat. It is always 
 movable, and the floor is always easy to get at for cleaning. With the 
 passing of the carpet, the Oriental rug has arisen from the point of being 
 occasionally found, to a status in which it is all pervading, and can be 
 bought for a score of dollars, or for a king's ransom, to suit the pur- 
 chaser. In old houses, where the floors are of soft wood or are not 
 well laid, a plain colored carpet may be used, with a few good rugs spread 
 upon it to add tone and to prevent wearing in spots. Carpets showing 
 large figures should never be laid in a small room, nor those showing a 
 brilliant colored ground if the wall paper and upholstery of the furniture 
 are light. Carpets are advisable in bedrooms for the sake of warmth, 
 but mattings of the Japanese variety answer every purpose and are very 
 attractive; when subjected to heavy wear they should be protected by 
 mats and small rugs. 
 
 Oriental Rugs All the rules laid down for testing Oriental rugs 
 amount to nothing without expert knowledge ; 
 hence it is hazardous to purchase from any but houses of established 
 reputation. It is difficult to set a price on a rug of given size and name, 
 for each rug has its individual merits. The age, quality, softness of 
 coloring and beauty of design, all add to the price. It is generally con- 
 ceded that the Oriental rug is the most economical floor investment of 
 to-day. For those who wish a serviceable rug, at a lower price, a re- 
 versible pattern of American Smyrna rug can be obtained in most at- 
 tractive colorings and designs. 
 
 Draperies Portieres obviate the undesirable feature of a swinging 
 door, and add an element of beauty. Such materials as 
 tapestry, velveteen, corduroy, silk, velour, denim, cotton, taflfeta, mer- 
 cerized cotton, armure, and cretonne, are proper draperies. Chenille 
 curtains and textiles which give a stuffy appearance to the room should 
 be avoided. When draperies are required to be lined, the lining should 
 match the curtain in color. The draperies of a room should harmonize 
 with the wall coverings, but should be stronp-er and richer in tone. For 
 draperies between rooms, or between the hall and a room, it is advisable 
 to sew the two separate curtains together so as to form one curtain. 
 
49 
 
 Renting Decide in advance the amount you are willing to expend 
 in rent, aiid confine yourself to looking at houses within 
 this limit. ^ The time to make discoveries and to require the landlord to 
 make repairs is while you are a prospective tenant. A well built house 
 will save the tenant at least one-fourth of the rent over one poorly 
 constructed. The renter should carefully study the neighborhood, to- 
 gether with its sanitary conditions, and note the objectionable prox- 
 imity of any stable, ill-smelling establishment, polluted stream, aqueduct 
 or body of water, or any low-lying ground, or marsh. Pay especial at- 
 tention to well ventilated rooms with ceilings of average height ; avoid 
 old structures with settled floor or opened seams in the wood- 
 work or plaster, unless remedied. Examine carefully the condition 
 of a chimney passing through any closet or loft, and note the situation 
 of the range with relation to any studded or wooden-cased partition. 
 Examine the efficiency of the heating apparatus and range, together 
 with the proximity and capacity of the coal bins ; note any leaks, rusted 
 door hinges, weak grate bars, burned-out linings and smoke pipes ; be 
 particular that the drum of a hot-air furnace is not punctured. Examine 
 the kitchen boiler for defects, and note whether the capacity is equal to 
 requirements. Observe that the house is not piped with light lead pipe ; 
 also that all piping is securely supported and carefully jointed. 
 Examine the water-closet bowl for crazes and note that the tank gives 
 a sufficient flush and does not flow continuously. See that all spigots 
 have proper washers, that the side or rear yard is provided with a sum- 
 mer hydrant and the front wall or pavement with a wash pave. See 
 that all exterior walls of a brick or stone house have been stripped and 
 furred before being plastered; this can be readily noted from the fact 
 that under such conditions the wall will give forth a hollow sound when 
 tapped. Note especially that the cellar is not damp or musty ; see that 
 it has a cement floor and dashed walls. Test the gas pipes and burners 
 for the free flow of gas. Note whether wiring and batteries are efficient 
 in operating electric bells and automatic gas lighting. Test the eificiency 
 of all light switches and wires. Examine all locks and observe that no 
 keys are wanting. Examine the condition of all door hinges and note 
 whether doors will open and close properly without binding. Test slid- 
 ing doors for their efficiency. Examine all windows for broken or 
 cracked panes, and test, by raising and lowering the sashes, for broken 
 cords or the absence of properly balanced weights. Examine all shutters 
 or blinds to see that they will properly swing back and fasten when 
 opened as well as when closed. Look to the condition of the roof for 
 weatherworn flashings, broken slate, badly weathered or split shmgles, 
 decayed gutters and downspouts. Any tin roof with "pit holes" has the 
 earmarks of decay and is certain to give trouble. See that water from 
 all roofs is properly disposed of, so as to prevent the overflowmg of 
 walks Observe that the system of drainage has sufficient fall and is 
 provided with traps; also examine into the condition and capacity of 
 any outhouses or cesspools. See that you have an efficient supply of 
 water- if a well, that you have capacity, a proper pump and an uncon- 
 taminated and abundant fresh supply. Note if the site and walks are 
 orooerly drained ; see that brick walks are solid and secure, that cement 
 walks have not settled, raised or cracked, and that no sections give out a 
 
so 
 
 hollow sound, and, if of wood, that they have not decayed to such a state 
 as to be insecure. Examine all plastered walls ; insist upon all crevices 
 being filled and the old paper removed before new is put on. In exam- 
 ining city houses it is well to bear in mind that houses in rows do not 
 afford the same amount of privacy and circulation of air as those in 
 pairs, but are more economical in keeping warm. Bay windows, though 
 a source from which cold multiplies, more than make up for this objec- 
 tion by affording additional view and space ; bay windows encased in 
 metal are warmer than those encased in wood ; those overhanging, should 
 have the space between the joists insulated. Any room overhanging a 
 porch will be very difficult to keep warm in winter. Properties facing 
 the south and the west are more desirable. A property extending to a 
 rear street or driveway is to be preferred on account of allowing supplies 
 to be delivered and ashes removed without offending the dignity of the 
 front street. A yard is always desirable for hanging and drying clothes, 
 and a plot of grass will surprisingly add to the general comfort. Open 
 fences are more desirable than closed ones. Any house close by and to 
 the north or east of a railroad is sure to suffer annoyance from smoke. 
 An outside shed or porch leading from a kitchen is an indispensable ad- 
 junct to any house, and provides a fitting location for the gas range. 
 Persons who go to housekeeping in the city, on small means, will find a 
 well equipped apartment at a higher rent more economical than a cheaper 
 one for which everything must be furnished. The permanent fixtures 
 now installed in modest apartments are a gas range and warming closet, 
 stationary wash trays, refrigerator, folding kitchen table, window shades, 
 screens, built in china closet and, frequently, stationary window seats. So 
 rapid has been the develoDment of suburban life that almost every purse 
 can find in these outlying districts houses to suit. If one contem- 
 plates moving into the suburbs, he must be attracted there by conditions 
 and advantages which he does not possess in the life that is char- 
 acteristic of large towns and crowded communities. Suburban life 
 may not be ideal, it may have its drawbacks, it may be at times irk- 
 some, yet rightly viewed and lived, it affords a condition filled with com- 
 pensations and recompenses. Ascertain who were the previous occu- 
 pants of the house, and inquire after the causes and conditions of their 
 departure ; on this point you cannot be too careful. Walk around the 
 neighborhood, carefully note the surroundings, consider your fire pro- 
 tection and the cost of furniture insurance, and inquire concerning the 
 local physician. 
 
SI 
 
 In the construction and furnishing of a home, many 
 persons, for want of a list of representative firms in 
 various lines, find it difficult to secure proper informa- 
 tion and prices on reliable goods. To meet this 
 requirement, the following list is published : 
 
 Acetylene Generators 
 
 John Simmons Co., 104-110 Centre St., New York City. 
 "Ad-eUite Paint and Varnish Remover" 
 
 Adams & Elting Co., Chicago, 111. 
 Air Valves (Automatic and Vacuum) 
 
 Norwall Mfg. Co., 138 Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, 111.; 42 East 23rd St., New York City. 
 
 Artesian Wells 
 
 Thomas B. Harper, Jenkintown, Pa. 
 Automatic Meat Regulators 
 
 Electric Heat Regulator Co., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 Bali-Bearing Hinges 
 
 The Stanley Works, New Britain, Conn. 
 Barrel Swing (Perfection) 
 
 The Leavitt Machine Co., Orange, Mass. 
 Bathtub Mats 
 
 The Cantslip Bathtub Appliance Co., 26 Cedar St., New York City. 
 Boilers, Steam and Hot-Water 
 
 The Prizer-Painter Stove and Heater Co. , Reading, Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. Pa. 
 
 Book- Cases 
 
 The Globe- Wernicke Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Bric-a-Brac 
 
 George R. Parr, Importer, 154 Lake St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Builder and Contractor 
 
 Burd P. Evans & Co., 708 N. 9th St., PhUadelphla, Pa. 
 
 Building Information Bureaus 
 
 Master Builders' Exchange, Chas. B. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Builders' Exchange League of Pittsburgh and Vicinity, Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 Builders' Exchange of Baltimore City, Baltimore, Md. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 Master Builders' Association, St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Jacksonville, Fla. 
 
 Builders' & Traders' Exchange, Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, San Francisco, Cal. 
 
 Builders' & Traders' Exchange, Providence, R. I. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
 Mechanics', Dealers' & Lumbermen's Exchange, New Orleans, La. 
 
 Building Trades Employers' Association, New York City. 
 
 Builders' & Material Men's Exchange, Augusta, Ga. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Lowell, Mass. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Memphis, Tenn. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Evansville, Ind. 
 
 Contractors' Exchange, Lincoln, Neb. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Akron, Ohio. 
 
 Builders' & Traders' Exchange, Columbus, Ohio. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, St. Paul, Minn. 
 
 Chattanooga Builders' Exchange, Chattanooga, Tenn. 
 
 Builders' Exchange, Portland, Me. 
 
 Building Contractors' Exchange, Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Buildlng-Papers 
 
 F. W. Bird & Son, East Walpole, Mass. 
 
52 
 
 Calcimo (Sanitary Wall Coatings) 
 
 The Maralo Co., Staten Island, N. Y. 
 
 Carpets and Oriental Rugs 
 
 Fritz & LaRue, 1012 and 1014 Chestnut St., Philadelphia. •*»• 
 
 Casement Adjusters (Hold-Fast) 
 
 The Casement Hardware Co., Steinway Hall, Chipa^o, 111. 
 
 Clothes- Dryers 
 
 Chicago Clothes-Dryer Works, 346-S48 Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Composition Ornament (Interior and Exterior) 
 
 The Florentine-Wilhelm Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 D ^ / Woods' STEEL Corner, 1 
 Corner Beads | ,„r Plaster Walls / 
 
 Gara, McGinley & Co., 23 S. 17th St., Philadelphia, Pa 
 
 Cut-Olass Mosaic Tiling 
 
 The Assembled Tile and Slab Co., Cor. S. 16th and Muriel Sts., Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 Damp-Resisting Paint 
 
 Toch Brothers, 468-472 W. Broad tray. New York City ; Builders' Exchange, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Domestic Fire-Escapes 
 
 TnelHarris Safety Co., St. James Building, New York City. 
 
 Domestic Qas-Plants 
 
 Tirrill Gas Machine Lighting Co., 75 Fulton St., New York City. 
 
 Door Bumpers (Seamless Metal) 
 
 The Ashtabula Mfg. Co., Ashtabula, Ohio. 
 Doors (Hardwood) and Interior Finish 
 
 Paine Lumber Co., Ltd., Oshkosh, Wis.; Builders' Exchange, Philadelphia, Fa. 
 Double-Acting Door Floor Hinges — " Matchless " 
 
 LawBon Mfg. Co., 40 Dearborn St., Chicago, 111. 
 Dumb-Waiters and Residence Hand-Power Elevators 
 
 The Storm Mfg. Co., foot of Centre St., Newark, N. J. 
 Dynamos and Motors 
 
 Northern Electrical Mfg. Co., Madison, Wis. 
 Enameled Tile 
 
 New York Metal Ceiling Co., 552 etc. W. 24th St., New York City. 
 Engines 
 
 International Harvester Company of America, 7 Monroe St., Chicago, 111. 
 Figured and Wire Glass 
 
 Mississippi Wire Glass Co., 277 Broadway, New York City. 
 Fire Extinguishers and Hand-Qrenades 
 
 S. F. Hayward & Co., 20 Warren St., New York City. 
 Fire-Place Dampers 
 
 H. W. Covert Co., 266 Greenwich St., New York City. 
 Fuel Economizers 
 
 The Anderson Mfg. Co., 14 S. Broad St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Furnaces 
 
 Richardson & Boynton Co., 234 Water St., New York City. 
 Furnishings (Imported) 
 
 George R. Parr, Importer, 154 Lake St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Garbage Cremators 
 
 Cragin Garbage Crematory Co , 285 E. 48rd St., Chicago, 111. 
 Qas and Electric Fixtures 
 
 Black & Boyd Mfg. Co., 23 E. 22nd St., New York City. 
 Oas-Logs 
 
 Strait &Rlehards, P. 0. Box 407, Newark, N. J. 
 
S3 
 aiass, "Sun.Proof" Paints and Painters' Sundries 
 
 Pittsburgh Plate Glass Co., Arch and Uth Sta., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Hardware 
 
 Reading Hardware Co., 617 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Hardwood Flooring (Tliin End>Matched) 
 
 Cobbs & Mitchell, Inc., Cadillac, Mich. 
 
 Hollow Concrete Block Machines 
 
 Ideal Concrete Machinery Co., South Bend, Ind. 
 Hot- Water Heating 
 
 Andrews Heating Co., 269 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 Instantaneous Qas Water- Heaters 
 
 Bartletl^Ruud, Dept. Gi 1938 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Iron and Wire Penciog 
 
 Anchor Post Iron Works, 15 Cortland St., New V ork City. 
 
 Kitchen Cabinets (Space Economizers) 
 
 The Hoosier Manufacturing Company, New Castle, Ind. 
 Lawn Grass Seed. (Catalogue Mailed Free) 
 
 Henry A. Dreer, Inc., 714 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Lightning Conductors 
 
 Carl Bajohr, 4051-1059 Keokuk St., St. Louis, Mo.; 40 Dearborn St., Chicago, 111. 
 560 W. 42nd St., New York City. 
 
 Lincrusta Walton, "A Sanitary Solid Relief Wall-Hanging " 
 
 Ft. Beck & Co., New York City ; or all leading decorators. 
 
 Liquid Veneer (for Surfacing Old Varnished Work) 
 
 BuOalo Specialty Co., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 Lock- Joint Columns, "Koll's" 
 
 Hartmann Brothers Mfg. Co., Mt. Vernon, N. Y. 
 
 Lumber, Millwork and Stairwork 
 
 Chas. F. Felin & Co., 3^ Land Title Building, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Mantels 
 
 Philadelphia and Boston Face Brick Co., 165 Milk St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Metal Lath 
 
 Bostwick Steel Lath Co., Niles, Ohio. 
 
 Metal Shingles 
 
 Montrosa Metal Shingle Co., Cor. 2nd and Erie Sts., Camden, N. J. 
 
 Metal Weather-strips; "Qolden's Patent" 
 
 Burgess & Chester, 602 Real Estate Trust Building, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Millwork 
 
 C. B. Coles & Sons Co., Camden, N. J. 
 
 Mortar Stains (for Brickwork) 
 
 S. Bowen's Son, 4th and Sedgley Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Nurserymen and Horticulturists 
 
 Jos. W. Thomas & Sons, King of Prussia, Pa. 
 
 "One-Coat Dull Finishes, Ad-el-lte " 
 
 Adams <St Elting Co., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Oriental Rugs 
 
 Kent-Costikyiin, 890-892 Broadway, New York City. 
 
 Paint for Galvanized Iron 
 
 The Goheen Mfg. Co., Canton, Ohio. 
 
 Paints (Enamel), with Primers 
 
 8. Bowen's Son, 4th and Sedgley Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Parquetry Flooring 
 
 The Interior Hardwood Co., Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
54 
 Photographer (Domestic Work) 
 
 Ph. B. Wallace, 770 8. 18th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Pipe and Boiler Covering 
 
 Asbestos and Magnesia Mfg. Co., Land Title Building, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Plumbing Fixtures 
 
 Haines, Jones di Cadbury Co., 1120-1144 Ridge Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Polygon Conductor>Pipe 
 
 The American Boiling Mill Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Porcelain Enameled Ware Fixtures 
 
 standard Sanitary Mfg. Co., Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 Porch-Shades and Chair-Hammocks 
 
 Hough Shade Corporation, 39 MoKey fioulevard, Janesville, Wis. 
 
 Portland Cement 
 
 The Whitehall Portland Cement Co., Philadelphia, Chicago, Atlanta, Boston. 
 Pressure Tanks 
 
 Kewanee Water Supply Co., Kewanee, 111. 
 Pumps for Domestic Purposes 
 
 The Goulds Mfg. Co., Seneca Falls, N. Y. 
 Radiators, for Steam and Hot=Water Heating Systems 
 
 The J. H. McLain Co., Canton, Ohio. 
 Radiator Valves (Packless and Quick Opening] 
 
 Norwall Mfg. Co., 13S Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, 111.; 42 E. 23rd St., Nevr York City. 
 Ranges— Heating— Stoves 
 
 James Spear Stove and Heating Co., 1014 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Refrigerators 
 
 McCray Eefrigerator Co., Kendallville, Ind. 
 Revolving Pantry=iDoors 
 
 Van Kennel Revolving Door Co., 524 E. 134th St., New York City. 
 
 Roofing Slate (in all Natural Colors) 
 
 R. T. Cropper, 303 Builders' Exchange, 24 S. 7th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Roofing Tile 
 
 Huntington Roofing Tile Co., Huntington, W. Va. 
 Roofing Tin— "Taylor Old Style" 
 
 N. & G. Taylor Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Rubber Tiling 
 
 The B. P. Goodrich Co., Akron, Ohio. 
 
 Sand^Lime Brick 
 
 The Sand-Lime Brick Co., Taney below Pine St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Sash Pulleys 
 
 The American Pulley Co., 29th and Bristol Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Sectional Book-Cases 
 
 The Globe-Wernicke Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Shingle Stains 
 
 Samuel Cabot, 141 Milk St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Shower Baths (Portable) 
 
 Vapor Shower Bath Co., Granite Building, Rochester, N. Y. 
 Slag and Qravel Roofing— " Barrett's " 
 
 Barrett Mfg. Co., Philadelphia, New York, Cleveland, Chicago, St. Louis, Allegh6iy> 
 Cincinnati, Kansas City, New Orleans, Minneapolis. 
 Sliding- Door Hangers 
 
 Lane Bros. Co., 434-446 Prospect St., Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 
 
 Stained and Leaded Glass 
 
 George Hardy Payne, Paterson, N. J. 
 
ss 
 
 stone Sills, Copings and Steps 
 
 Schweyei & Leisa, King of Frussia, Fa. 
 
 Vacuum Steam- Heating (Combined Pressure and Vacuum) 
 
 Norwall Mfg. Co.. 138 Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, 111.; 42 E. 23rd St., New York City. 
 Varnislies 
 
 Pratt & Lambert, New York, BuCfalo, Chicago. 
 Veneered Doors 
 
 Paine Lumber Co., Ltd., Oshkosh, Wis.; Builders' Exchange, Philadelphia, Fa. 
 Venetian Blinds 
 
 Henry C. Elder, 711 Fidelity Building, Philadelphia, Fa. 
 
 Wall Plaster 
 
 J. B. King & Co., No. 1 Broadway, New York City. 
 
 John H. Holmes, Manager, 24 S. 7th St. (Builders' Exchange), Philadelphia, Fa. 
 
 Wall Radiators 
 
 Fowler & Wolfe Mfg. Co., Bourse Building, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Water-closets 
 
 The Naturo Co , Salem, N. J. 
 
 Water-Filters (Qerm-Proof) 
 
 Roberta Mfg. Co., 30th and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Fa. 
 
 Water-Reducing Valves 
 
 Watson & MoDanlel Co., 146 N.7th St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Water-supply Tanks 
 
 W. E. Caldwell Co., Louisville, Ky. 
 
 White Lead 
 
 Carter White Lead Co., Chicago and Omaha. 
 
 Window and Door Screens 
 
 The E. T. Burrowes Co., Portland, Maine. 
 Window Ventilators (Fresh Air, without Draughts) 
 
 The Pullman Automatic Ventilator Co., York, Pa. 
 
 Wire Lath 
 
 The Eoebling Construction Co., Fuller Building, Broadway and 23rd St., New York City. 
 
 Wood Fillers and Finish Preservatives 
 
 Eugene E. Nice, 272 and 274 8. 2nd St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Woven Wall-Coverings 
 
 H. B. Wiggln's Sons Co., 42 Arch St., Bloomfield, N. J. 
 
 Zinc, Oxide of 
 
 The New Jersey Zinc Co., 71 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
 -f- 
 
Cornell University Library 
 NA7110.S321906 
 
 House hints; a practical treatise describ 
 
 3 1924 015 402 211