'"'ij^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l ^^^^^^^^^^^^^■yByLiwf***T>'fi*>f*f*"''' ;^ H^^^^^O. , . 1 26 ■ Fasiat-ic P' UOT VOL V 1915 ... . ■ *jt#< M, iCHOLS cattcnqB ON SOUTHEAST ASIA CORNEU UNIVERSITY U9RAKf5 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 088 188 358 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924088188358 No. 126 ASIATIC PILOT Volume V SUNDA STRAIT AND THE SOUTHERN APPROACHES TO CHINA SEA WITH WEST AND NORTH COASTS OF BORNEO AND OFF-LYING DANGERS PUBLISHED BY THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY FIRST EDITION WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1915 H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1916, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name __ Address. H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1917, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name Address- H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1918, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name Address H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1919, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name Address H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1920, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic OflBice, Washington, D. C. Name Address •>3 aoo:?"*-?^ : H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1921, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the TJnited States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name Address 4-33? -li it3:3T?-i,:3».D5-7 3?0» t -O ' H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1922, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, D. C. Name Address »0 ^3Tip05'3^O.5r>-(< H. 0. 126. A summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication, pub- lished during the year 1923, will be sent free of expense upon the receipt of this coupon at the United States Hydrographic Office, Washington, B.C. Name , Address 3.n???1 PREFACE. This publication comprises the sailing directions for the Cocos or Keeling Islands and Christmas Island; the southeast coast of kSumatra ; the west coast of Java as far as Batavia ; also the Straits of Sunda, Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata, with the islands therein; the west, north, and northeast coasts of Borneo, together with the off-lying islands; and the area known as the Dangerous Ground lying westward of the island of Palawan. The information contained herein is taken mainly from the British Admiralty sailing directions for the China Sea and the Eastern Archipelago. It has been brought up to date by hydrographic in- formation, port facilities, etc., received from consular officials, offi- cers of the Navy and the merchant marine. It cancels all Notices to Mariners up to and including No. 1 of 1915. The bearings and courses are true and are given in degrees, from 0° to 360°, commencing at north and increasing to the right, in accordance with the system adopted by the United States Navy. Bearings limiting sectors of lights are toward the light. The directions of winds refer to the points from which they blow ; of currents, the points toward which they set. These directions are true. Variations for the year, with the annual rate of change, may be obtained from H. O. Chart No. 2406, variation of the compass. Distances are expressed in nautical miles, the mile being approxi- mately 2,000 yards; also in yards in some cases. Soundings are referred to mean low water ordinary springs. Heights are referred to mean high water ordinary springs. The latest information regarding lights, their characteristics, arc of visibility, and fog signal, should always be sought in the light list. Attention is invited to the coupons on the first pages of this book, which entitle the purchaser to a summary of the Notices to Mariners affecting this publication. They will be ready for distribution as soon as practicable after the first of each year, beginning January, 1916. Mariners are requested to notify the United States Hydrographic Office, directly or through one of its branch offices, of any new in- formation obtained, or of any errors or omissions discovered in this publication. ni 7909ff OONTEI^TS. rage. Preface iii lofprmation relating to navigation aids and general navigation 1 Index. '. 497 Index chart Faces m List of Hydrographic OflSce publications 515 List of Hydrographic Office agents 518 Chapteb I. General remarks, Including weather and winds, current and tides, and passages 21 Chapter II. Cocos Islands and Christmas Island 57 Chapteb III. Sunda Strait 65 Chapter IV. From Sunda Strait northward and to Batavia 95 Chapter V. Banka Strait, and northwest and north coast of Banka Island 139 Chapter VI. Gaspar Strait and Its Approaches 179 Chapter VII. Carimata Strait ^ 224 Chapter VIII. Southern part of China Sea; West Coast of Borneo; Padang Tikar to Tanjong Datu ; Islands and Dangers between Borneo and Singapore Strait; also the Natuna Islands 261 Chapter IX. Korthtwest coast of Borneo. Tanjong Datu to Labuan Island 297 V VI CONTENTS. Chapteb X. Northwest Coast of Borneo : Labuan Island to Sampanmangio Point and Kudat Harbor; Palawan Passage and the Dangerous Ground to the Pbrp westward 345 Chapter XI. Islands and chapnels between Palawan Island and Borneo ; Northeast Coast of Borneo from Sampanmangio Point to Sibuko River- 386 GLOSSARIES OF WORDS OCCASIONALLY FOUND IN THE CHARTS AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. MALAY. Malay. Alang Alang. . Angin Api Arang Arus Ayer masin. . pasang. surut. . . ■ tawar. . Bahani. Bambu. Barat Batu Batu Arung Besar Besi Beting Buluh Burung Buwah Chettek ■Daging-Sapi Dalam or Dalem. Dammar Darat Djemara-boom Gunong GuBong Ikan Itam Jalan Jambatan Jankar Kalapa or Kelapa. . . Kaler Kali Kampong Kapal Karang Kawala Kayu Kechil Kering Kidul Kotta Kring Kroon-boom Kulon Kupal-boom Labuan Lama Laut Layar Lor Lumpar or Lumpur. Manuk English. Beeds. Wind. Fire. Coal. Current. Water. Salt water. Flood or high tide. Ebb or low tide. Fresh water. New. Bamboo cane. West. Rock, stone. Coal. Lai'ge, great. Iron. Shoal, sand. Bamboo cane. Bird. Fruit. Shallow. Beef. Deep. Gum, Coast, land. District with vil- lages. Casuarina tree. Mountain. Reef of rocks. Fish. Black. Road. Mole, jetty. Anchor. Cocoanut. North. River. Village. Ship. Coral. Mouth of a river. Tree. Little, small. Diy. South. Town. Dry. Tree, round top. West. Tree, dome top. Anchorage. Old. Sea. Sail, North, Mud. Bird. Malay. Masin Mesigit or Missigit. Muara Napo Negri Nipa Nusa Padi Padoman Panjang Pantei Pasang besar kring naik ■- — surut turun Pasir. Pelabuan Pingh- Laut Pisang Pohun or Puhun. Prau, prahu Pulo Putih Renda Rotan Roti Ruma Salatan Sampan.. Sawuh Sayuran Selat Si Sungi Tali : . . . . Tanah Tanjong Tebu Tedoh TelokorTeluk. Tepilaut Tida Angin Timur Titian Tohor Toko Trepang Trumbu English. Salt. Mosque. Mouth of a river. Reef. Town. Small marsh palm. Island. Rice in the straw. Mariner's compass. ' Long, Coast, seaboard. High tide. Low tide. Flood tide. [■Ebb tide. Sand, shoal. Anchorage, Coast, seaboard. Banana. Tree. Boat, ship. Island. White. Low. Rattan cane. Bread. House. South. Small boat. Anchor. Vegetables. Channel, strait, A particle insepa- rably united to nouns and denot- ing familiarity. River, Cable, Land, Cape, point. Sugar-cane, Calm, Bay, Coast, seaboard. Calm, East, Mole, jetty. Shallow, Store. B6che-de-mer. Dangerous hidden shoal. Channel. Old. Trusan Tuwak Ujong ; Cape, point Utara ' North. Wetan East, 90045—1.5- vm GLOSSAKIES OF WORDS. PRINCIPAL POINTS OF THE COMPASS (MALAY). Malay. Utara-samata-timor Timor-laut : N. E. Timor-samata-utara . Timor Timor- tanggara. . . Tanggara Salatan- tanggara. . Salatan English. Malay. English. North. Salatan-daya s. s. w. N. N. E. Barat-daya s.w. N. E. Barat-samata- w. s. w. E. N. E. salatan. Bast. Barat-tapat West. E. S. E. Bara t-samata- W. N. W. S.E. atara. S. S. E. Barat-laut. N.W. South. Utara-barat-laut N. N. W. BUGIS. Bugis. Alau , Angieng , Api Ase Atti Baichu Balango Bale , Baru Bassi , Batowa Batu Becho Bola Bulo Bulu BuTva buwa Enne Gusong .'. . Jiko Kaluku Kappala Karang Kassi Klotto Labuwang. Layland. Lemba Libukang Lino Lopo, or Lopo Bung- ka. Mabiring-tasi Malampe Malotong Maniyang Manne Manorang East. Wind. Fire. Kice in the straw. Ebb or low tide. Little, small. Anchor. Fish. New. Iron. Large, great. Rock, stone. Little, small. House. Bamboo cane. Mountain. Fruit. Shallow. ' Sand, shoal. Bay. Coconut. Ship. Coral reef. Sand. Dug-out (canoe). Anchorage. Road. Bay. Island. Calm. Mud. Coast, seaboard. Long. Black. South. Shallow. North. Bugis. English. Manu-manu- Maputih Marakho Mariawa. . . . Matoa Menralang... Padoma Paduran Pong-ajie Potana Prau-Lopi Raukang , Ri-aja Roti Salla Salol Sannang Sapi Solo Solok Sompa j Sail. Tabbu I Sugar cane. Tanah , Land. Tasi ! Sea. Timuna-salo or I,, ., , Timuna-winanga. r°""^ °^ ^ ''''^' Tulu Cable. Ujong. I Cape, point. Ukayu : Vegetables. Using 1 Coal. Uti , Banana. Uwae Bird. White. Diy. Low. Old. Deep. Mariner's compass. Town. Flood or high tide. Tree. Coast, land. Ship. Rattan cane. West. Bread. Strait. River. Calm sea. Beef. Current. Strait. tasi. Water. Salt water. tuwo ; Fresh water. Wanuwa | Town. Winanga j River. Wrai ! West. GLOSSARIES OF WORDS. BISAYAN. IX MORO, Bisayan. English. Bisayan. English. Alimpaya Tide race, eddies. The Indian fig. Biche-de-mer. Tree resembling olive. Turtle shell. Great. Turtle shell. Kauit Creek, bend, hook' Balate Kogon frequently em- ployed to name a point. Reed used for roof- Balete Bantiki Carey Kogonal ing houses. Dako....' Thicket or planta- tion of Kogon. Resinous tree Karei Kolasi Talisai Useful tree— Ter- minalia Catappa. Moro. English. Moro. English. Kasiran Native paddv. Great. [ Parido 1 Sugur. i Small Masila A b^iV TAGALA, Abaca Ages Apui Asia Baibai Bakal Balai Balangai Balate Balete Bantiki , Bate Bayan Bohangin Bondog Bunga Carey Daan Dagat hibus laki. . tagas. Darung Habagat. . . . Hangm Hilaga Ibon Hog Ilogan Manila hemp. Current. Fire. Salt. Coast, seaboard. Iron. House. Ship. The Indian fig. B6che-de-mer. Tree resembling olive. Rock, stone. Town. Sand. Mountain. Fi-uit. Turtle shell. Road. Sea. Ebb tide. Flood tide. Low tide. Ship. South. WiQd. North. Bird. River. Monti of a river. Isda Kahui Kalinauan Kalonoran Kapie Karei Kauayan.. Kaiiit Kelong Kilong. . . Kima Kitii- Kogon Kogonal. . . Kota Layag Losak Luk Lupa Mababa... Mababao.. Mahaba... Maitim Malaki. . . Malalim. . English. Fish. Tree. Calm. West. Pearl shell. Turtle shell. Bamboo cane. Creek, bend, hook; frequently em- ployed to name a point. Large oyster. Fish stakes. Large clam. Strait. Reed used for roof- lug houses. Thicket or planta- tion of Kogon. Fort.- Sail. Mud. Bay. Land. Low. Shallow. Long. Black. Large, great. Deep. GLOSSARIES OF WOEDSi TAGALA— Continued. Tagala. Munti Niyog Oi^ot Palai Pantalan. . Poio Saguing. . . Sakknganes. Sao- English. Little, small. Coconut. Cape, point. Rice in the straw. Mole, jetty. Island. Banana. Edible bird's nest. Anchor. Tagala. Sibukao . Silangan Takut... Talisai.. Tubig. - Tubu.... Tuyo.... English. Sappan wood. East. Shoal, sand. Useful tree — Ter- minalia, Catappa. Water. Sugar cane. Dry. INFORMATION MUTING TO NAVIGATIONAL AIDS AND GENERAL NAVIGATION. THE CORRECTION OF CHARTS, LIGHT LISTS, AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. The following publications are issued by the United States Hydro- graphic Ofl&ce as guides to iiavigation: Charts, Chart Catalogues, Sailing Directions, Light Lists, Tide Tables, Notices to Mariners, Pilot Charts, and Hydrographic Btdletins. Of these, the Notices to Mariners and the Hydrographic Bulletins are free to mariners and others interested in shipping. The Pilot Charts are free to con- tributors of professional information, but are sold to the general public at 10 cents a copy. The other pubMcations of the office are sold under the law at cost price. The Charts, the Sailing Directions, and the Light Lists are all affected by continual changes and alterations, concerning which information from all parts of the world is published weekly in the Notices to Mariners. The charts are always corrected for all available information up to the date of issue stamped upon them; and the Light Lists should be noted for the recent alterations and additions. The Sailing Direc- tions, however, can not, from their nature, be so fully corrected, and in all cases where they differ from the charts, the charts must be taken as the guide. Charts. — When issued from the Hydrographic Office, the charts have received all necessary corrections to date. All small but important corrections that can be made by hand are given in the Notices to Mariners, and should at once be placed on the charts to which they refer. Extensive corrections that can not be conveniently thus made are put upon the plates, and new copies are put on sale. Masters of vessels are urged to replace the old charts, which should be destroyed to pre- vent the possibihty of their being used in the navigation of the ship. The dates on which extensive corrections are made are noted on the chart on the right of the middle of the lower edge; those of the smaller corrections at the left lower corners. The edition, and corresponding date, of the chart will be found in the right lower corner, outside the outer neat Hne. 90045—15 1 1 55 , GENEBAL NAVIGATION. In all cases of quotations of charts, these dates of corrections should be given, as well as the number of the chart (found in the lower right and upper left corners) , in order that the edition of the chart referred to may be known. The Light Lists are corrected before issue, and all changes are published in the weekly Notices to Mariners. The navigating ofl&cer ' should make notations ia the tabular form in the Light Lists and paste in at the appropriate places, shps from the Notices to Mariners. The Light Lists should always be consulted as to the details of a light, as the description in the sailing directions is not complete, and may be obsolete, in consequence of changes since publication. The Sailing Directions or Pilots are kept corrected by addenda; and subsequent to date of last addenda, they should be kept corrected by means of the Notices to Mariners. Sailing Directions issued to naval vessels carry with them an envelope containing slips of correc- tions up to date of issue. Addenda are published from time to time, and contain a summary of all the information received up to date since the publication of the volume to which they refer, canceling all previous Notices to Mariners. To enable the books to be more conveniently corrected, addenda and Notices to Mariners are printed on one side only, and two copies of the latter are issued to each naval vessel, one to be cut and the slips pasted in at the appropriate places, the other to be retained intact for reference. To paste in the slips, as the Notices to Mariners are received, is one of the duties of the navigating officer, demanding faithful attention. It must, however, be understood that SaiUng Directions wiU rarely be correct in all detaUs, and that, as already stated, when differences exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent information, should be taken as the guide, for which purpose, for ordinary navigation, it is sufficient. The Tide Tables, which are published annually by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, give the predicted times and heights of the 'high and the low waters for every day in the year at 70 of the principal ports of the world, and, through the medium of these by means of tidal differences and ratios, at a very large number of subordinate ports. The tables for the Atlantic and the Pacific coast ports of the United States are also pubhshed separately. It should be remembered that these tables aim to give the times of high and low water, and not the times of turning of the current or of slack water, which may be quite different. Notices to Mariners, containing fresh information pertaining to all parts of the world, are pubhshed weekly and mailed to all GENERAL NAVIGATION. 6 United States ships in commission, Branch Hydrographic offices and agencies, and United States consulates. Copies are furnished free by the main office or by any of the branch offices on appUcation. With each Notice to naval vessels is sent also a separate sheet, giving the items relating to lights contained in the latest Notice, intended especially for use in correcting the Light Lists. Pilot Charts of the North Atlantic, Central American Waters, and North Pacific and Indian Oceans are pubhshed each month, and of the South Atlantic and South Pacific Oceans each quarter. These charts give the average conditions of wind and weather, barometer, percentage of fog and gales, routes for steam and sailing vessels for the period of issue, ice and derelicts for the preceding period, ocean currents and magnetic variation for the current year, storm tracks for preceding years, and much other useful informa- tion. They are furnished free only in exchange for marine data or observations. Hydrographic Bulletins, published weekly, are supplemental to the Pilot Charts, g-nd contain the latest reports of obstructions and dangers along the coast and principal ocean routes, ice,, derelicts, and wreckage, reports of the use of oil to calm the sea, and other information for mariners. They are to be had free upon apphcation. THE USE OF CHARTS. Accuracy of chart. — The value of a chart must manifestly depend upon the character and acctiracy of the survey on which it is based, and the larger the scale of the chart the more important do these become. To judge of a survey, its source and date, which are generally given in the title, are a good guide. Besides the changes that may have taken place since the date of the survey, in waters where sand or mud prevails, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circumstances that precluded great accuracy of detail; until a chart founded on such a survey is tested, it should be regarded with caution. It may, indeed, be said that, except in well-frequented harbors and their approaches, no 'surveys yet made have been so thorough as to make it certain that all dangers have been found. The number of the soundings is another method of estimating the completeness of the smvey, remembering, however, that the chart is not expected to show all the soundings that were obtained. When the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed, it may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. Large or irregular blank spaces among sotmdings mean that no soundings were obtained in these spots. When the surrounding soundings are deep it may fairly be assumed that in the blanks the water is also deep; but when they are shallow, or it can be 4 GENERAL NAVIGATION. seen from the rest of the chart that reefs or banks are present, such blanks should be regarded with suspicion. This is especially the case in coral regions and off rocky coasts, and it should be remembered that in waters where rocks abound it is always pos- sible that a siirvey, however complete and detailed, may have failed to find every small patch or pinnacle rock. A wide berth should therefore be given to every rocky shore or patch, and instead of considering a coast to be clear, the contrary should be assumed. Fathom curves a caution. — Except in charts of harbors that have been surveyed in detail, the 5-fathom curve on most charts may be considered as a danger line or caution against unnecessarily approaching the shore or bank within that line, on account of the possible existence of undiscovered inequalities of the bottom, which only an elaborate detailed survey could reveal. In general surveys of coasts or of httle frequented anchorages, the necessities of navigation do not demand the great expenditure of time required for so detailed a survey. It is not contemplated that ships will approach the shores in such locaHties without taking special pre- cautions. The 10-fathom curve on rocky shores is another warning, espe- cially for ships of heavy draft. A useful danger curve wUl be obtained by tracing out with a colored pencil, or ink, the line of depth next greater than the draft of the ship using the chart. For vessels drawing less than 18 feet the edge of the sanding serves as a weU-marked danger line. Charts on which no fathom curves are marked must especially be regarded with caution, as indicating that soundings were too scanty and the bottom too uneven to enable the curves to be drawn with accuracy. Isolated soundings, shoaler than surrounding depths, should always be avoided, especially if ringed around, as it is doubtful how closely the spot may have been examined and whether the least depth has been found. The chart on largest scale should always be used on account of its greater detail and the greater accuracy with which positions may be plotted on it. Caution in using small-scale charts.— In approaching the land or dangerous banks, regard must always be had to the scale of the chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only yards on a large-scale chart, whereas on one of small scale the same amount of displacement means a large fraction of a mile. Distortion of printed charts. — ^The paper on which charts are printed from engraved plates has to be damped. On drjong dis- tortion takes place from the inequalities of the paper, which greatly GENEKAL NAVIGATION. 5 varies with different papers and the amount of the damping; but it does not affect navigation. The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion. It must not, however, be expected that accurate series of angles taken to different points will always exactly agree when carefully plotted on the chart, especially if the Mnes to objects be long. Mercator chart. — Observed bearings are not identical with those measured on the Mercator chart (excepting only the bearings north and south, and east and west on the equator) because the line of sight, except as affected by refraction, is a straight line and lies in the plane of the great circle, while the straight hne on the chart (except the meridian line) represents, not the arc of a great circle, but the loxodromic curve, or rhumb line, which on the globe is a spiral approaching but never in theory reaching the pole, or, if the direction be east and west, a circle of latitude. The difference is not appreciable with near objects, and in ordinary navigation may be neglected. But in high latitudes, when the objects are very distant and especially when lying near east or west, the bearings must be corrected for the convergence of the meridians in order to be accurately placed on the Mercator chart, which represents the meridians as parallel. On the polyconic chart, since a straight line represents (within the limits of 15 or 20 degrees of longitude) the arc of a great circle or the shortest distance between two points, bearings of the chart are identical with observed bearings. The mercator projection is unsuited to siu^reying, for which pur- pose the polyconic projection is used by the Hydrographic Office and the Coast and Geodetic Survey. Notes on charts should always be read with care, as they may give important information that can not be graphically represented. Buoys. — Too much reliance should not be placed on buoys always maintaining their exact positions. They should therefore be regarded as warnings, and not as infallible navigational marks, especially when in exposed places and in the wintertime; and a ship's position should always, when possible, be checked by bearings or angles of fixed objects on shore. Gas buoys. — The hghts shown by gas buoys can not be imphcitly rehed on; the light may be altogether extinguished, or, if periodic, the apparatus may get out of order. Whistle and bell buoys are sounded only by the action of the sea; therefore, in calm weather, they are less effective or may not sound. Lights,— All the distances given in the Light Lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of 15 feet for the observer's eye. The effect of a greater or less height 6 GENEEAL NAVIGATION. of eye can be ascertained by means of the table of distances of visi- bility due to height, pubhshed in the Light Lists. The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must not be confounded with the true range. Refraction, too, may often cause a light to be seen farther than under ordinary circumstances. Wben looking out for a light, the fact may be forgotten that aloft the range of vision is much increased. By noting a star imme- diately over the hght a very correct bearing may be obtained from the standard compass when you lay down from aloft. On first making a light from the bridge, by at once lowering the eye several feet and noting whether the light is made to dip, it may be determined whether the ship is on the circle of visibihty corresponding with the usual height of the eye, or unexpectedly nearer the light. The intrinsic power of a light should always be considered when expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. The power of a hght can be estimated by its candlepower or order, as stated in the Light Lists, and in some cases by noting how much its visibility in clear weather falls short of the range corresponding to its height. Thus, a light standing 200 feet above the sea and recorded as visible only 10 miles in clear weather, is manifestly of little brilliancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles if of sufficient power. Fog signals. — Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from the influence of the wind large areas of sUence have been found in different directions and at different distances from the origin of sound, even in clear weather; therefore, too much confidence should not be felt as to hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptibly toward the land, and may not be observed by the lighthouse keepers until upon them; a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land in confidence, depending on the signal, which is not sounded. When sound travels against the wind, it may be thrown upward ; a man aloft might then hear it though inaudible on deck. The submarine bell system of fog signals is much more reliable than systems transmitting sound through the air, as sound trav- eling in water is not subject to the same disturbing influences; the fallibihty of the hghthouse keeper is, however, about the same in all systems, so that caution should be observed even by vessels equipped with submarine-bell receiving apparatus. GENERAL NAVIGATION. I Submarine bells have an effective range of audibility greater than signals sounded in air, and a vessel equipped with receiving apparatus may determine the approximate bearing of the signal. These signals may be heard also on vessels not equipped with receiv- ing apparatus by observers below the water line, but the bearing of the signal can not then be readily determined. Vessels equipped with radio apparatus and submarine bell receivers may fix their distance from a light vessel having radio and submarine bell, utilizing the difference in velocity of sound waves of the radio and the bell. Sound travels 4,794 feet per second at 66° F. in water, and the travel of radio sound waves for practicable distances may be taken as instantaneous. All vessels should observe the utmost caution in closing the land in fogs. The lead is the safest guide and should be faithfully used. Tides. — ^A knowledge of the times of high and low water and of the amount of vertical rise and fall of the tide is of great impor- tance in the' case of vessels entering or leaving port, especially when the low water is less than or near their draft. Such knowledge is also useful at times to vessels running close along a coast, in enabling them to anticipate the effect of the tidal ciu'rents in setting them on or offshore. This is especially important in fog or thick weather. The predicted times and heights of the high and low waters, or differences by which they may be readily obtained, are given in the Tide Tables for aU the important ports of the world. The height at any intermediate time may be obtained by means of Tables 2A and 2B for most of the principal tidal stations of the United States, given in Table 1, and for the subordinate stations of Table 3 by using them as directed in the Tide Tables. The interme- diate height may also be obtained by plotting the predicted times and heights of high and low water and connecting the points by a " curve. Such knowledge is often useful in crossing a bar or shallow flats. , Planes of reference.' — The plane of reference for soundings on Hydrographic Office charts made from United States Government surveys and on Coast and Geodetic Siurvey charts of the Atlantic coast of the United States is mean low water: on the Pacific coast of the United States as far as the Strait of Juan Fuca, it is the mean of the lower low waters; and from Puget Sound to Alaska, the plane em- ployed on Hydrographic Office charts is low water ordinary springs. On most of the British Admiralty charts the plane of reference is the low water of ordinary springs; on French charts, the low water of equinoctial springs. 1 The distinction between "rise" and "range " of the tide should be understood. The former expression refers to the height attained above the datum plane for soundings, differing with the different planes ol reference; the latter, to the difference of level between successive high and low waters. 8 GENERAL NAVIGATION. In the case of many charts compiled from old or various sources the plane of reference may be in doubt. In such cases, or when ever not stated on the chart, the assumption that the reference plane is low water ordinary springs gives a larger margin of safety than mean low water. Whichever plane of reference may be used for a chart it must be remembered that there are times when the tide falls below it. Low water is lower than mean low water about half the time, and when a new or full moon occurs at perigee the low water is lower than the average low water of springs. At the equinoxes the spring range is also increased on the coasts of Europe, but in some other parts of the world, and especially in the Tropics, such periodic low tides may coincide more frequently with the solstices. Wind or a high barometer may at times cause the water to fall below even a very low plane of reference. On coasts where there is much diurnal inequality in the tides, the amount of rise and fall can not be depended upon and additional caution is necessary. Mean sea level. — ^The important fact should be remembered that the depths at half tide are practically the same for aU tides, whether neaps or springs. Half tide therefore corresponds with mean sea level. This makes a very exact plane of reference, easily found, to which it would be well to refer aU high and low waters. The Tide Tables give in Table 3, for all the ports, the plane of reference to which tidal heights are referred and its distance below mean sea level. If called on to take special soundings for the chart at a place where there is no tidal bench mark, mean sea level should be found and the plane for reductions established at the proper distance ■ below it, as ascertained by the Tide Tables, or by observations, or in some cases, if the time be short, by estimation, the data used being made a part of the record. Tidal streams. — In navigating coasts where the tidal range is considerable, especial caution is necessary. It should be remembered that there are indrafts to aU bays and bights, although the general run of the stream may be parallel with the shore. The turn of the tidal stream offshore is seldom coincident with the times of high and low water on the shore. In some channels the tidal stream may overrun the turn of the vertical movement of the tide by three hours, forming what is usually known as tide and half tide, the effect of which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream is running at its greatest velocity. The effect of the tidal wave in causing currents may be illustrated by two simple cases. GENERAL NAVIGATION. if (1) Where there is a small tidal basin connected with the sea by a large opening. (2) Where there is a large tidal basin connected with the sea by a small opening. In the first case the velocity of the current in the opening will have its maximum value when the height of the tide within is changing most rapidly, i. e., at a time about midway between high and low water. The water in the basin keeps at approximately the same level as the water outside. The flood stream corresponds with the rising and the ebb with the falling of the tide. In the second' case the velocity of the current in the opening will have its maximum value when it is high water or low water without, for then there is the greatest head of water for producing motion. The flood stream begins about three hours after low water, and the ebb stream about three hours after high water, slack water thus occurring about midway between the tides. Along most shores not much affected by bays, tidal rivers, etc., the current usually turns soon after high water and low water. The swiftest current in straight portions of tidal rivers is usually in the middle of the stream, but in curved portions the most rapid current is toward the outer ,edge of the curve, and here the water will be deepest. The pilot rule for best water is to foUow the ebb tide reaches. Countercurrents and eddies may occur near the shores of straits, especially in bights and near points. A knowledge of them is useful in order that they may be taken advantage of or avoided. A swift ctn-rent often occurs in a narrow passage connecting two large bodies of water, owing to their considerable difference of level at the same instant. The several passages between Vineyard Sound and Buzzards Bay are cases in point. In the Woods Hole passage the maximum strength of the tidal streams is at about half tide. Tide rips are made by a rapid current setting over an irregular bottom, as at the edges of banks where the change of depth is con- siderable. Current arrows on charts show only the most usual or the mean direction of a tidal stream or current; it must not be assumed that the direction of a stream will not vary from that indicated by the arrow. The rate, also, of a stream constantly varies with circum- stances, and the rate given on the chart is merely the mean of those found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. FIXING POSITION. Sextant method. — The most accurate method available to the navigator of fixing a position relative to the shore is by plotting with a protractor, sextant angles between three well-defined objects on 10 GEKEEAL NAVIGATION. shore which are shown on the chart; this method, based on the " three- point problem" of geometry, should be in general use. For its successful employment it is necessary: First, that the objects be well chosen; and, second, that the observer be skillful and rapid in his use of the sextant. The latter is only a matter of practice. Two observers are better for this method. Near objects should be used either for bearings or angles for position in preference to distant ones, although the latter may be more prominent, as a small error in the bearing or angle or in lay- ing it on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the line to be drawn. On the other hand distant objects should be used for direction, because less affected by a small error or change of position. The three -arm protractor or station pointer consists of a graduated brass circle with one fixed and two movable radial arms, the three beveled edges of the arms, if produced, intersecting at the exact center of the instrument. The edge of the fixed- arm marks the zero of the graduation which enables the movable arms to be set at any angles with the fixed arm. To plot a position, the two angles observed between the three selected objects are set on the instrument, which is then moved over the chart untU the three beveled edges pass respectively and simul- taneously through the three objects. The center of the instrument will then mark the ship's position, which may be pricked on the chart or marked with a pencil point through the center hole. The transparent xylonite protractor is an excellent substitute for the brass instrument and in some cases preferable to it, as wh^n, ■for instance, the objects angled on are so near the observer that they are more or less hidden by the circle of the instrument. The xylonite pro- tractor also permits the laying down for simidtaneous trial of a number of angles in ' cases of fixing important positions. Plaui tracing paper may also be used if there are any suitable means of laying off the angles. The value of a determination depends greatly on the relative positions of the objects observed. If the position sought lies on the circle passing through three objects (in which case the sum of the observed angles equals the supplement of the angle at the middle object made by lines from the other two) it will be inde- terminate, as it will plot all around the circle. Such an observation is called a"revolver." An approach to this condition must be avoided. Near objects are better than distant ones, and, in general, up to 90° the larger the angles the better, remembering always that large as well as small angles may plot on or near the circle and hence be worthless. If the objects are well situated, even very smaU angles will give for GEXEEAL NAVIGATION. 11 navigating purposes a fair position, when that obtained by bearings of the same objects would be of little value. Accuracy requires that the two angles be simultaneous. If under way and there is but one observer the angle that changes less rapidly may be observed both before and after the other angle and the proper value obtained by interpolation. A single angle and a range of two objects give in general an excel- lent fix, easily obtained and plotted. Advantages of sextant method. — In many narrow waters where the objects may yet be at some distance, as ia coral harbors or nar- row passages among mud banks, navigation by sextant and protractor is invaluable, as a true position can in general be obtained only by its means. Positions by bearings are too rough to depend upon, and a smaU error in either taking or plotting a bearing might under such circumstances put the ship ashore. In all cases where great accuracy of position is desired, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of fresh soundings or new buildings as additions to the chart, the sextant should iavariably be used. In all such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the better; but five objects is a good number, as the four angles thus obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. If a round of angles can be taken the observer's accuracy is also checked. In the case of ordinary soundings a third angle need be taken only occa- sionally; first, to check the general accuracy of the chart, as above stated; second, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the end of a line, are correctly placed. If communication can be had with the snore, positions may be fixed with great accuracy by occupying with theodohte or sextant two known points of the chart. The third angle of the triangle, that between the two points at the position sought, should be measured as a check. The compass. — It is not intended that the use of the compass to fix the ship should be given up; in ordinary piloting the compass, with its companion, the pelorus, may be useftdly employed for this purpose, although less accurate than the sextant. If the accuracy of the chart is doubtful, the compass should be used in preference to the sextant. In fixing by the compass, it should always be remembered that a position by two bearings only, like that by two angles only, is liable to error. An error may be made in taking a bearing, or in applying to it the deviation, or in laying it on the chart. A third or check bearing should, therefore, be taken of some other object, especially when near the shore or dangers. A common intersection for the three lines assures accuracy. 12 GENEEAL NAVIGATION. When the three lines do not intersect in a point, the following rule-;, holds: If the line drawn to the middle object falls to the right of«. the point of intersection of the lines to the two outside objects, the^ position of the observer was to the right of the line to the, middle, object; and if it falls to the left of the intersection his position was to the left of the line. Thus it wiU be seen that the assumption, that the position is at the center of the triangle formed by the intersecting lines, is incorrect. Doubling the angle on tlie bow. — The method of fixing by- doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called "bow and beam bearing," the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives the maximum of accuracy, and is an excellent fix for a departure, but does not insure safety, as the object observed and any dangers off it are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings at two points and four points on the bow, a fair position is obtained before the object is passed, the distance of the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval, allowing for current. Taking after- wards the beam bearing gives, with slight additional trouble, the distance of the object when abeam; such beam bearings and dis- tances, with the times, should be continuously recorded as fresh departures, the importance of which will be appreciated in cases of being suddenly shut in by fog. When the firs.t bearing is 26^° from ahead, and the second 45°, the run between bearings will equal the distance at which the object will be passed abeam. A table of mtdtiphers of the distance run in the interval between any two bearings of an object, the product being its distance at the time of the second bearing, is given in the Light Lists and in Bowditch. Danger angle. — The utility of the danger angle in passing out- lying rocks or dangers should not be forgotten. In employing the horizontal danger angle, however, caution is necessary, as should the chart be inaccurate, i. e., should the objects selected be not quite cotrectly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the purpose. It should not, therefore, be employed when the survey is old or manifestly imperfect. The vertical danger angle may be conveniently used when passing elevated points of known heights, such as lighthouses, cliffs, etc. The computation of the distance corresponding to the height of the object and its angular elevation requires for small distances merely the solution of a plain right triangle; the natural cotangent of the angle multiplied by the height in feet gives the distance in GENEBAL NAVIGATION. 13 feet. The convenient use of this method, however, requires tables such as those pubHshed by Capt. Lecky in his little book entitled "The Danger Angle and Offshore Distance Tables." This book very usefully extends the vertical angle method to finding a ■ship's position at sea by observing the angular altitude of a peak o# known height and its bearing. The tables give heights up to 18,000 feet and distances up to 110 mUes. When the angles are not too large they should be observed "on and off the limb" and the index error of the sextant thus ehminated, in preference to correcting for it the single altitude. It must be re- membered that in high latitudes the bearing of a distant object needs correction for the convergence of the meridians before being laid down on a Mercator chart. The correction may be found by the following formula, using the approximate position: The sine of the correction equals the product of the sine of half the difference of longitude by the sine of the middle latitude. It is applied on the equatorial side of the observed bearing and its effect is always to increase the latitude of the observer. Soundings taken at random are of httle value in fixing or check- ing position and may at times be misleading. In thick weather, when near or closing the land, soundings should be taken continu- ously and at regular intervals, and, with the character of the bottom, systematically recorded. By laying the soundings on tracing paper, according to the scale of the chart, along a line representing the track of the ship, and then moving the paper over the chart, keeping the line representing the track parallel with the course until the observed soundings agree with those of the chart, the ship's position wiU in general be quite well determined. This plan was suggested by Lord Kelvin, whose admirable sounding machine renders the operation of sounding possible in quite deep water, without slowing down the ship and consequent loss of time. Pelorus. — All ships should be supplied with the means of taking accurate bearings both by night and by day. The standard compass is not always conveniently placed for the purpose; in such case a pelorus will be very useful, but the results are not as accurate as those obtained direct from the compass. The utility of such an instrument in ascertaining the change of bearing of an approaching ship should not be overlooked. Position lines. — ^Among the various methods of fixing position at sea, the one which should be best understood and put to the most constant use is that employing position or Sumner lines. These lines give the most comprehensive information to the navigator with the least expenditure of labor and time. The knowledge gained is that the vessel must be somewhere on the line, provided the data used is accurate and the chronometer correct. As the information 14 GENERAL NAVIGATION. given by one line of position is not sufficient to determine the definite location of the vessel, it is necessary to cross this line by another similarly obtained, and the vessel being somewhere on both must be at their intersection. However, a single line, at times, will furnish the mariner with invaluable information; for instance, if it is directed toward the coast, it marks the bearing of a definite point on the shpre, or if parallel to the coast it clearly indicates the distance off, and so will often be found useful as a course. A sounding taken at the same time with the observation will in certain conditions prove of great value in giving an approximate position on the line. The easiest and quickest way to establish a line of position is by employing the method of Marcq St. Hilaire, as modified by the use of tables of altitude. The principle of this method is one of altitude differences, in which the observed altitude is compared with the computed altitude for a dead reckoning, or other selected position, and the difference in minutes of latitude meastured toward the body along the line of its azimuth, if the observed altitude is greater than the computed altitude, and vice versa. A line drawn at right angles to the line of azimuth through the point thus determined is the position line, somewhere upon which will be found the position of the vessel. The tables of altitude obviate the computation of the altitude and thereby greatly facilitate the establishment of the line. A position line may also be found by computing two positions for longitude with two assumed latitudes, and drawing the line between them; or by drawing to the position obtained with one latitude a line at right angles to the bearing of the body as taken from the azimuth tables. A very accurate position can be obtained by observing two or more stars at morning or evening twilight, at which time the horizon is well defined. The position lines thus obtained will, if the bearings of the stars differ three points or more, give an excellent result. A star or planet at twilight and the sun afterwards or before may be combined; also two observations of the sun with sufficient interval to admit of a considerable change of bearing. In these cases one of the lines must be moved for the run of the ship. The moon is often visible during the day and in combination with the sun gives an excellent fix. The morning and evening twilight observations, besides their great accuracy, possess the additional advantage of greatly extending the ship's reliable reckoning beyond the limits of the ordinary day navigation, and correspondingly restricting the dead reckoning uncertainties of the night. An early morning fix in particular is often of great value. Though the same degree of GENERAL KAVIGATIOX. 15 accuracy as at twilight can not be expected, night observations are very valuable and should be assiduously practiced. Piloting. — The navigator, in making his plan for entering a strange port, should give very careful previous study to the chart and sailing directions, and should select what appear to be the most suitable marks for use, also providing himself with substitutes to use in case thosie selected as most suitable should prove imreliable in not being recognized with absolute certainty. Channel buoys seen from, a distance are difficult to identify, because their color is sometimes not easily distinguished and they may appear equally distant from the observer even though they be at widely varying distances. Ranges should be noted, if possible, and the lines drawn, both for leading through the best water iii channels, and also for guarding against particular dangers; for the latter purpose safety bearings should in all cases be laid down where no suitable ranges appear to oifer. The combes to be steered in entering should also be laid down and distances marked thereon. If intending to use the sextant and danger angle in passing dangers, and especially in passing between dangers, rfhe danger circles should be plotted and regular combes planned, rather than to run haphazard by the indi- cations of the angle alone, with the possible trouble from bad steering at critical points. The ship's position should not be allowed to be in doubt at any time, even in entering ports considered safe and easy of access, and should be constantly checked, continuing to use for this piu-pose those mai'ks concerning which there can be no doubt mitil others are unmistakably identified. The ship should ordinarily steer exact courses and follow an exact line, as planned from the chart, changing course at precise points, and, where the distances are considerable, her position on the line should be checked at frequent intervals. This is desirable even where it may seem unnecessary for safety, because if running by the eye alone and the ship's exact position be immediately required, as in a sudden fog or squall, fixing at that particular moment may be attended with difficiilty. The habit of running exact coiirses with precise changes of course wiU be fotmd most useful when it is desired to enter port or pass through inclosed waters during fog by means of the buoys; here -safety demands that the buoys be made successively, to do which requires, if the fog be dense, very accurate courses and careful attention to the times, the speed of the ship, and the set of the current; failure to make a buoy as expected leaves, as a rule, no safe alternative but to anchor at once, with perhaps a consequent serious loss of time. 16 GENEEAL NAVIGATION. in passing between dangers -where there are no suitable leading marks, as, for instance, between two islands or an island and the main shore, with dangers extending from both, a mid-channel course may be steered by the eye alone with great accuracy, as the eye is able to estimate very closely the direction midway between visible objects. In piloting among coral reefs or banks, a time should be chosen when the sun wUl be astern, conning the vessel from aloft or from an elevated position forward. The line of demarcation between the deep water and the edges of the shoals, which generally show as green patches, is indicated with surprising clearness. This method is of frequent application in the numerous passages of the Florida Keys. Changes of course should in general be made by exact amounts, naming the new course or the amount of the change desired, rather than by ordering the helm to be put over and then steadying when on the desired heading, with the possibility oi the attention being diverted and so of forgetting in the meantime, as may happen, that the ship is still swinging. The helmsman, knowing just what is desired and the amount of the change to be made, is thus enabled to act more intelligently and to avoid bad steering, which in narrow channels is a very positive source of danger. Coast piloting involves the same principles and requires that the ship's position be continuously determined or checked as the landmarks are passed. On well-surveyed coasts there is a great advantage in keeping near the land, thus holding on to the marks and the soundings, and thereby knowing at aU times the position, rather than keeping offshore and losing the marks, with the neces- sity of again making the land from vague positions, and perhaps the added inconvenience of fog or bad weather, involving a serious loss of time and fuel. The route should be planned for normal conditions of weather, with suitable variations where necessary in case of fog or bad weather or making points at night, the courses and distances, in case of regular runs over the same route, being entered in a note- book for ready reference, as weU as laid down on the chart. The danger circles for either the horizontal or the vertical danger angles should be plotted, wherever the method can be usefully employed, and the angles marked thereon; many a mile may thus be saved in rounding dangerous points with no sacrifice in safety. Ranges should also be marked in, where useful for position or for safety, and also to use in checking the deviation of the compass by comparing, in crossing, the compass bearing of the range with its magnetic bearing, as given by the chart. GENERAL NAVIGATION. 17 Changes of course will in general be made with mark or object abea,m, the position (a new "departure") being then, as a rule, best and most easily obtained. The pelorus should be at aU times in readiness for use, and the chart where it may be readily consulted by the officer of the watch. The sextant should also be kept con- veniently at hand. A continuous record of the progress of the ship should be kept by. the officer of thei watch, the time and patent-log reading of all changes of course and of aU beatings, especially the two and four point bearings, with distance of object when abeam, being noted in a book kept in the pUot house for this especial purpose. The ship's reckoning is thus continuously cared for as a matter of routine and without the presence or particular order of the captain or navigating officer. The value of thus keeping the reckoning always fresh and exact will be especially appreciated in cases of sudden fog or when making points at night. Where the coastwise trip must be made against a strong head wind, it is desirable, with trustworthy charts, to skirt the shore as closely as possible in order to avoid the heavier seas and adverse current that' prevail farther out. In some cases, with small ships, a passage can be made only in this way. The important saving of coal and of time, which is even more precious, thus effected by skillful coast piloting makes this subject one of prime importance to the navigator. Change in the variation of the compass. ' — The gradual change in the variation must not be forgotten in laying down on the chart courses and bearings. The magnetic compasses placed on the charts for the purpose of facilitating the plotting become in time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales or when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change may be of importance. The date of the variation and the annual change, as given on the compass rose, facilitate correc- tions when the change has been considerable. The compasses are reengraved once in ten years; more frequent alterations on one spot in a copperplate would not be practicable. ' The change in the variation is in some parts of the world so rapid as to need careful consideration, requiring a frequent change of the course. For instance, in approaching HaUfax from Newfoundland the variation changes 10° in less than 500 miles. Local magnetic disturbance of the compass on board ship. — ^The term "local magnetic disturbance" has reference only to the effects on the compass of magnetic masses external to the ' See H. O. Chart No. 2406, Variation of the Compass. 90045—15 2 18 GENEKAL yAYIGATION. ship. Observation shows that disturbance of the compass in a sliip afloat is experienced in only a few places on the globe. Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that the visible land causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic force diminishes so rapidly with distance that it would require a local center of magnetic force of an amount absolutely unkno-\vn to affect a compass half a mile distant. Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow and the force strong, the compass may be temporarily deflected when passing over such a spot; but the area of disturbance will be small unless there are many centers near together. Use of oil for modifying the effect of breaking waves. — Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for this purpose is undoubted, and the application simple. The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose attention is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil, skillfully applied, may prevent much damage both to ships, espe- ciaUy of the smaller classes, and to boats by modifying the aclion of breaking seas. The principal facts as to the use of oil are as follows : 1. On free waves, i. e., waves in deep water, the effect is greatest. 2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is in actual motion in shallow water, the effect of the oil is uncertain, as nothing can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such circumstances; but even here it is of some service. 3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Refined kerosene is of little use; crude petroleum is serviceable when no other oil is obtainable, or it may be mixed with other oils; aU animal and vegetable oils, such as waste oil from the engines, have great effect. 4. In cold water, the oil, being thickened by the low temperature and not being able to spread freely, wiU have its effect much reduced, a rapid-spreading oil should be used. 5. A small quantity of oil suffices, if applied in such a manner as to spread to windward. 6. It is useful in a ship or boat either when I'unning, or lying-to, or in wearing. 7. When lowering and hoisting boats in a heavy sea the use of oil has been found greatly to facilitate the operation. 8. For a ship at sea the best method of application appears to be to hang over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small canvas bags, capable of holding from 1 to 2 gallons of oil, the bags being pricked with a sail needle to permit leakage. The waste pipes forward are also very useful for this purpose. GENEEAL NAVIGATION. 19 9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, to pour oil overboard and allow it to float in ahead of the boat, which would foUow with a bag towing astern, would appear to be the best plan. On a bar, with the ebb tide running, it would seem to be useless to try oil for the purpose of entering. 10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil over- board to windward of her before going alongside, bearing in mind that her natural tendency is always to forge ahead. If she is aground the effect of oil wiU depend upon attending circumstances. 11. For a boat riding in bad weather to a sea anchor, it is reconunended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove through a block on the sea anchor, by which means the oil can be diffused well ahead of the boat, and the bag readily hauled on board for refilling, if necessary. CHAPTER I. GENERAL REMARKS. Plan. — This book comprises the Cocos or Keeling Islands and Christmas Island ; the southeast coast of Sumatra, the west coast of Java as far as Batavia; also the Straits of Sunda, Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata, with the islands therein; the west, north, and north- east coasts of Borneo, together with the off-lying islands; and the area known as the Dangerous Ground lying westward of the island of Palawan. Many parts of the area herein dealt with, especially the northeast coast of Borneo and the Dangerous Ground, have been but partially explored, and much information is still from reports of early navigators. Reliable soundings are also greatly needed and the sparseness and irregular character of the depths given on the charts, with the existence of so many reefs ascertained and reported, show that further dangers may be looked for and points to the need of extreme care and vigilance. Standard time.; — In Java the mean time of the meridian of 109° 48' 37.5" east longitude, or 7 hours 19 minutes 14.5 seconds fast on Greenwich mean time, has been adopted as standard (central Java) time. The colony of the Straits Settlements and the Federated Malay States in the Malay Peninsula have adopted the mean time of the 105th meridian, or 7 hours east of Greenwich mean time. The time kept in the Philippine Islands and in British North Borneo and Labuan is that of the meridian of longitude 120° east, or 8 hours fast on mean time at Greenwich. Coniinunications. — Christmas Island is in communication with Singapore, the phosphate company's steamer making regular trips. Batavia is in communication with Europe weekly by two Dutch steamship companies and by the Ocean Line from Liverpool; also via Singapore by other lines, as well as to Australia by the British India Co. Sandakan is in communication with Labuan and Singapore four times a month, with Hongkong about four times a month, and with Jolo about three times a month. Trading steamers run constantly between Sandakan, Labuan, and Singapore, and also to Hongkong and to Jolo. Coal. — ^Large supplies of coal are obtainable at Batavia, Maura (Bruni), and Labuan. Small quantities may be obtained at Telok 21 22 GENERAL REMARKS. Betong and Palembang in Sumatra, and Sandakan and Sibuko Bay in British North Borneo. Telegraph. — All towns of importance in Java are joined by tele- graph; there is also a considerable extension of long-distance tele- phone conununication. A submarine cable connects Batavia with the Cocos Islands, and thence with Perth, Australia, Mauritius, South Africa, and Zanzibar. Submarine cables also connect Java with Sumatra, Singapore, and Eoebuck Bay and Port Darwin in Australia; also Banjarmasin in Borneo and Makassar in Celebes. Makassar is also connected with Balik Papan in Borneo and Yap in the Caroline Islands. Sandakan, Kudat, and Darvel Bay are connected with Jesselton and Labuan by land telegraph; thence with Europe by submarine cables. WINDS AND WEATHER. Indian Ocean. — The southeast trade wind, which in the Indian Ocean extends from the west coast of Australia to within a few de- grees of Madagascar, will be found between the parallels of 4° and 25° south, from April to September, and between 10° and 30° south, from November to March. To the southward of this trade, as far as 60° or 70° south, the prevailing winds are westerly, which will be found with more or less force and irregularity at all seasons. Monsoons. — The monsoons southward of the Equator blow from southeast from the middle of April till the middle of September and from northwest varying to westsouthwest from October to March. The southeast or easterly monsoon, which is the period of fine sea- son, may be considered an extension of the southeast trade, blowing within 3° or 4° of the Equator when the sun is near the northern tropic and- receding to 10° or 11° south when the sim is near the southern tropic. The northwest or westerly monsoon is subject to many irregulari- ties, with occasional heavy gales, thunder, lightning, and rain. It sometimes does not set in before November or December, rarely blow- ing with regularity and strength except in December and January, when it occupies a space comprised between latitude 10° or 12° south and 2° or 3° north. Cyclones. — In making the passage between the Cape of Good Hope and Sunda Strait, or vice versa, the possibility of meeting a cyclone must be borne in mind. They are most frequent between the months of November and May during the northwest monsoon, the remaining months being almost exempt. Some of these storms form in the neighborhood of the Cocos or Keeling Islands; thence, after taking a westsouthwest direction, recurve either eastward of Mauri- tius or between it and Madagascar. CYCLONES. 23 Others form to the northward of Mauritius, whence they usually- work southward between it and Madagascar, though occasionally one escapes northward of that island into the Mozambique Channel, Others, again, form off (not near) the west coast of Sumatra in 3° to 4° south latitude, whence, working southwestward, they recurve in about 80° or 90° east longitude. The rate of progression of the greater number of these storms is from 50 to 200 miles per day, while others are nearly stationary; the proportion is about 2 to 1, respectively. The very marked differ- ence in the proportion of progressive storms to those classed as sta- tionary in the different months of the cyclone season is a valuable fact for the seamen, if it can be considered established. The knowledge that in the early and late periods of the cyclone season the chances are about even that the storm is stationary, and that in the height of the season (February) the chances are very great (about 10 to 1) that a cyclone is in rapid progression, would greatly influence the action of a vessel in the neighborhood of a storm.; but these proportions are too strongly marked throughout the 35 years' observations that have been discussed to admit of much doubt that the ratio between the progressive and stationary cyclones is different in different parts of the season. The doubt whether full information of every storm has been obtained must prevent the pro- portions being accepted as absolutely correct. On the homeward route it should be borne in mind that if freshen- ing northeast or easterly winds with falling barometer are met with, the vessel may be overtaking a cyclone; and as these winds often, if not always, blow toward the center, necessary steps should be taken for avoiding it. The relative frequency for the whole series of 35 years ending 1885 for the several months are as follows. For full details, with yearly and monthly charts showing the tracks of these storms, see " Cyclone Tracks in the South Indian Ocean," from information compiled by Dr. Meldrum, C. M. G., F. R. S., published under the authority of the Meteorological Council, 1891. Month. October... November, December. January... February. March April May.' June July August September Progressive storms. Total. Frequency. 1 in 18 years. 1 in 3 years. . 2 in 3 years.. 3 in 2 years.. 5 in 3 years.. 4 in 3 years.. 3 in 4 years.. 2 in 9 years.. 1 in 35 years. 1 in 35 years. Stationary storms. Total. Frequency. 1 in 12 years. 1 in 3 years.. 2^1? years.. 1 in 2 years.. 1 in 6 years.. 1 in2 years.. 2 in 3 years.. 1 in 3 years.. 1 in 18 years. 1 in 35 years. Totals. Stationary and pro- gressive. Frequency. 1 in 7 years. 5 in 7 years. 1 in 1 year. 2 in 1 year. 5 in 3 years. 5 in 3 years. 3 in 2 years. 1 in 2 years. 1 in 11 years. 1 in 18 years. 24 GENEEAL BEMAKKS. Sumatras, or squalls from the southwest, are more common during the southwest monsoon than in the northeast monsoon. They gen- erally blow during the first part of the night, are sometimes sudden and severe, and accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain. They are more frequently met with on the north coast of Sumatra, and on the Malay coast between Parcelar Hill and Karimon Islands. Here they often blow for six or eight hours at a time as a strong or moderate gale. Their characteristic is that of an arch squall. Northwesters are not so frequently felt as the sumatras. They are most common during the southwest monsoon and occur in the nothwestern part of the strait between Acheh Head and Aroa Islands, but sometimes blow through as far as Singapore Strait. These winds are sometimes severe at their commencement, but their strength soon abates. They are generally preceded by a black cloud arch which rises rapidly from the horizon toward the zenith, often allowing not more than sufficient time to reduce sail after its first appearance. They are sometimes accompanied by lightning, thun- der, and heavy rain. Sumatra,, north coast. — The southwest monsoon prevails from about April to November, and the northeast monsoon from about November to April, as previously stated for Malacca Strait. Dur- ing the southwest monsoon the wind frequently holds both day and night between Acheh Head and Pedir Point, whilst farther eastward it is not so permanent. In the strength of the northeast monsoon the wind blows from east to northeast from about 10 a. m. to 4 p. m., strengthening near the close. It then begins to drop and is usually calm about sun- down, and there is a land breeze during the night. In April south- west and west winds begin, and the southwest monsoon is established in May. Waterspouts are seen off this coast at times. Easterly monsoon. — The easterly monsoon is only fairly estab- lished on the southeast coast of Sumatra, within 20 miles of the shore, during the months of July, August, and September. Toward Sunda Strait it begins earlier. Here also strong southwesterly winds frequently occur, generally setting in at about sunset and con- tinuing constant during the night. Near the coast the monsoon does not blow with equal force. When it has blown for several days with a force between a strong breeze and a fresh gale, from east-northeast to east-southeast, there generally follow several days of calm, which periods are more fre- quent toward Banka Strait, where the wind is then mostly light from south-southeast to south-southwest. During this monsoon the atmosphere is very hazy, especially near the horizon, but it sometimes clears up toward evening. With strong winds the haze increases and the water assumes a milky, light-blue MONSOONS. • 25 color, which phenomenon is here known as the Tongara Putih, or the white southeaster. Should several days of calm succeed, the haze lessens, and there may succeed several days of clear atmosphere, especially in the north- ern portion, where heavy' rain and thundershowers occasionally occur. These winds blowing on shore cause a considerable swell, rendering anchorage uncomfortable, as the current running either north or south causes vessels to ride broadside on. Northward of latitude 4° south there is no regular easterly mon- soon. Although southeast and east winds are prevalent from July to October, they are too irregular to merit the title of monsoon. Westerly monsoon. — The westerly monsoon is well established in the month of December, and continues until April. This is the period of clear weather. The change is usually effected without any violent squalls or calms of long durations. Until about mid-January the wind varies from south-southwest to west-southwest, when if shifts more to the westward. The wind usually inclines to the northeastward in the afternoon and blows for some hours. Heavy thunderstorms and rain squalls, with hard gales from south- west to northwest, occur during this monsoon, and these are more frequent in proportion as Banka Strait is approached. The air is then very clear, and the coast of Sumatra, which shows as a dark streak on the horizon, can be sighted at a distance of 20 miles from aloft. By day, easterly and northeastely winds frequently blow, but toward evening the heavy squalls, which during the afternoon have been gathering in the west, inevitably set in with violence, and the westerly wind which follows continues to prevail with more or less force during the .night and morning. • Change of monsoons, — From April to July and from October to December is the change of monsoons within 20 miles of the coast of Sumatra. Near Banka Strait, even during the period of the easterly monsoon,, strong southerly winds with rain frequently occur. The weather is generally finest during the change from the westerly to the easterly monsoon (April and May) ; the frequent calms, however, render the weather very oppressive. Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata Straits. — In Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata Straits the monsoons prevail as in the Java Sea. But the times of the changes of these monsoons and their direction are some- what irregular, and the southeast monsoon is subject to calms. In Banka Straits the winds follow the direction of the coast, though with slight variations from the influence of the land and 26. GENBEAL REMARKS. sea breezes. The monsoon is felt as a fresh breeze when working against it. In Gaspar and Carimata Straits, as a rule, the settled weather of the southeast monsoon can be counted on from about the end of May. The wind then blows strongly between southeast and south-southeast until the beginning of October, accompanied by a dry but misty at- mosphere. Although it is clear overhead the horizon very seldom clears during this season, and the land is difficult to distinguish; about midday is the least hazy. In the beginning of October the character of the weather changes; light southeast and southerly winds are felt up to midday, and are succeeded by land breezes from across the marshes of the west coast of Borneo, and are found a considerable distance from the shore. Thunderstorms, much rain, and violent squalls from the westward, alternating with successive days of calm fair weather, usher in the northwest monsoon. Numerous waterspouts may be seen at the change of the monsoons and also during the northwest monsoon. From February, unsettled weather precedes the change of the mon- soon, and squalls occur from the northwestward. November, the first month of the northwest monsoon, is the first of the four months of maximum rain. The violent gales from the north- west which occur in this month generally commence with a bluish leaden appearance on the horizon, and a high sea gets up in the north- ern part of the strait. December is the most boisterous month; in January there is gen- erally a constant northerly wind, but in February it again becomes unsettled, with squalls from the northwest. The peculiar haze which accompanies the southeast monsoon is sometimes seen during the northwest monsoon, and when seen some days of continuous, north wind may almost certainly be reckoned on. Java Sea. — The entire region treated in this work is within the range of the northwest and southeast monsoons. The season of the southeast monsoon is from April to October, and the northwest monsoon from November to March. These periods correspond with the southwest and northeast monsoons north of the Equator. Within the influence of the land the winds are considerably modified by the direction of the coast line, and in all confined channels, avoiding the obstructions of the land and following the smooth surface of the water, they will draw through with increased force. In the southeast monsoon the air is laden with particles of dust, brought from the hot sandy plains of Australia, and distant objects may then be entirely hidden. In the other season, although often overcast and cloudy, the sky will, after rain, be bright and clear. MONSOONS. 27 The southeast monsoon, in Sunda Strait, blows from south- southeast to southeast, but is only constant during August and September. Thunderstorms are more frequent here than in any other part of the archipelago. Southward of Java in this season winds blow unsteadily from east to south, between April and Octo- ber, shifting to south-southwest in the last two months of the year- Light showers may be expected, but away from the coast the amount of rain is very small. In the Java Sea winds will blow for seven months, from April to l^fovember, from east-southeast in the western part, from east in the center, and east-southeast to southeast over the eastern portion. Between Celebes and Timor the monsoon blows with force and steadi- ness up to October. Through the great northern passages of Molucca Sea and the Straits of Makassar and Carimata the southeast winds will draw through to the northward and finally join the southwest monsoon of the Pacific Ocean and China Sea. The northwest monsoon blows from southwest to west-north- west in Sunda Strait between November and April, and is stronger and more reliable than the southeast wind, and rain is most abundant. On the south coast of Java southwesterly wind currents prevail, and it is only in January and February that west and west- northwest breezes are felt. In Java Sea this monsoon from west- northwest to west is stronger in force than the southeastern and lasts from December to March, with squalls and heavy showers. Southward of the eastern islands, southwest to northwest winds blow, but they are generally feeble and uncertain. On either side of Borneo and Celebes the reverse action of the southeast monsoon occurs, and northeast, north, and northwest winds will merge into the western monsoon of the Java Sea. Thunderstorms and squalls may be looked for always during the change of seasons. Iiand and sea breezes. — On the southeast coast of Sumatra both land and sea breezes are sometimes felt 30 miles from shore, but on the Java coasts they seldom extend off more than about 15 miles. A weak monsoon may be entirely overcome when opposed by either of these winds, but when blowing in strength they merely defiect the prevailing wind. In narrow straits these breezes are very baffling; calms are common under high land. Wet and dry seasons. — ^In both monsoons, when the more or less vapor-laden air currents meet high ranges of the land, and are forced up the steep slopes, rapid condensation is followed by heavy rainfall, while over low lands they will pass with little loss of moisture, so that at places a short distance apart very different results are registered. On the lee sides of mountains or inlands, in this case, 28 GENEEAL EEMAKKS. a dry wind will blow. In the open sea off the south coast of Java the southeast monsoon is nearly rainless, while at Chilachap during June and July 26 inches will fall, and 35 inches at Parigi over the same two months. The greatest amount in the offing is 7 inches during February. Generally the western monsoon is the rainy season, and the east- ern monsoon the dry. In Sunda Strait the wettest month is Novem- ber, and on the east coast of Sumatra December, while in the Java Sea it is January in the west and February over the eastern parts. In Timor Sea December and January are wet months, the' rest of the year being fine, with no rainfall in July. On the coast of Borneo and in Makassar Strait the seasons are less marked, and only July can be called a dry month, with January the wettest. China Sea — General remarks. — Over the whole of the China Sea the southwest and northeast monsoons prevail, but in the north- ern part during both monsoons easterly and southeasterly winds are frequently experienced. Land and sea breezes occur near the coasts. They are experienced more frequently during the southwest than in the northeast monsoon, and prevail most on the coasts of Cochin China, Palawan, and Luzon. The northeast monsoon is much the stronger and the more permanent of the two, being rarely inter- rupted, whilst the southwest is particularly irregular and often very weak. The winds may be summed up briefly as follows: Fr.om November to March the northeast monsoon blows. In April calms precede the change of the monsoon, with variable winds between northeast and southeast. In May the southwest monsoon is established on the Asiatic coast, with northeast to southeast winds in the middle of the sea and easterly winds in the northern part. In June the southwest monsoon is fairly established. In Septem- ber the monsoon becomes weak; strong winds from south to north- west occur, often blowing with violence, and accompanied by rain on the coasts of Borneo and Palawan. In October the northeast monsoon is established, and blowing fresh in the northern part, except on the cost of Luzon, where it is feeble, with calms and showers from southwest south of the par- allel of 13° north. In November and December the northeast monsoon is strong, but calms, variable winds, and rain occur in the eastern portion. The northeast monsoon occasionally sets in as early as the last week in August, but it usually begins in the northern part of the China Sea about the end of September or early in October. In the southern part it seldom blows steadily till November; there light MONSOONS. 29 southerly or variable breezes prevail for the greater part of October. This monsoon generally (and sometimes without warning) com- mences with a gale, which frequently lasts 10 or 12 days, and blows with great violence. Therefore, when the monsoon is about to change do not anchor in unsheltered positions, and weigh immedi- ately the wind freshens, as otherwise, owing to the swell rising quicldy, there is a difficulty in getting the anchor. Although the weather in some years is settled and fine during September and Oc- tober, the period of the autumnal equinox is a very precarious one, and storms frequently occur in those months. In November the northeast monsoon prevails generally, but it blows more steadily and with greater strength in December and January. The weather then is frequently cloudy, with much rain and a turbulent sea, particularly southward of Pulo Sapatu in lati- tude 10° north. In February there are generally strong winds and unsettled weather. During March the wind is moderate, with steady weather all over the China Sea, inclining to land and sea breezes on the coast of Luzon. The southwest monsoon generally commences in the China Sea about the middle or end of April and continues to the beginning or middle of October, liable to an acceleration or retardation of about a fortnight. It sets in sooner about the Gulfs of Siam and Tonkin, along the western shore, than in the open sea or near the coasts of China, Palawan, and Luzon. It also continues longer to the southward of the parallel of 11° north than in the northern part of the sea, where it generally terminates about the first week in Sep- tember ; for whilst northeast and easterly winds are blowing on the China coast, southerly winds frequently prevail between Singapore and Pulo Sapatu until the middle of October, although more often, about Pulo Sapatu, light northerly and variable winds and calms prevail at this period. In May the winds in the open sea are often light and variable, and easterly or southeast winds are likely to occur for a day or two at a time during the whole of the southwest monsoon, particularly in the northern part of the China Sea, where these winds are frequently experienced in both monsoons. The southwest monsoon is at its greatest strength in June, July, and August, at which period there is at times much rain and cloudy weather all over the China Sea. In these months and also in May sudden hard squalls sometimes blow out of the Gulf of Siam as far as Pulo Condore aiid Pulo Sapatu. When dense clouds are per- ceived to rise, indicating the approach of these squalls, sail ought to be reduced without delay. 30 GENERAL KEMAKKS. During the strength of the monsoon the wind draws southward, varying between southrsouthwest and south-southeast, in the months of June and July. From the Gulf of Siam to Cape Padaran the southwest monsoon blows nearly parallel to the coast ; and, if close in, a light wind from the land is at times experienced at night, succeeded by a short inter- val of calm on the following morning. The monsoon breeze then sets in, and generally continues brisk during the day. These land and sea breezes prevail most on the coast of Cochin China, from Cape Padaran northward to Tonkin Gulf, for on this coast during this monsoon the sea wind dies away almost every evening and a land breeze comes off in the night, although not at a regular hour. This is followed by calms or light airs, which frequently continue until noon ; the sea breeze then sets in from the southeast. In September the monsoon falls light and variable. Coast of Palawan. — The monsoons on this coast are so subject to interruption, being influenced by local circumstances and other causes, that it is difficult to say at what period either fairly sets in. In January, when the northeast monsoon is. blowing steadily in the China Sea, moderate northeast and easterly winds prevail on the coast of Pa,lawan, and land and sea breezes have been experienced with considerable regularity. In April northeast and easterly winds usually blow steadily on the coast of Palawan, freshening considerably after daylight and dying away toward sunset. May and the early part of Jime appear to be the finest period of the year on the coast of Palawan, when land and sea breezes prevail with tolerable regularity, the former coming from the south and southeast in the morning and the latter from the north and north- west in the afternoon. Toward the end of June and throughout July unsettled weather may be expected. A slight depression of the mercury, after a suc- cession of fine weather, frequently indicates the approach of strong squalls from the west-southwest, which are usually accompanied by dark, cloudy weather and much rain, lasting for a week or 10 days. These are generally succeeded by a period of fine weather, with northwest and southwest winds, which draw to the southward and eastward in the morning. If June or July have been unsettled, it may be expected that August generally will be fine, with moderate southwest but more frequently westerly winds, particularly in the afternoon. In September and October the wind generally blows strong from the west-southwest, with dark, cloudy weather; and off the south- west end of Palawan squalls, which veer to west-northwest and - TYPHOONS. 31 northwest, sometimes blowing with violence, succeed each other rap- idly and are accompanied by rain. Between the squalls the wind frequently shifts to southeast. In November and December the weather is variable ; northeast and easterly winds, changing at times to southeast, more frequently pre- vail, but it is not imusual, especially in the former month, to have a southwesterly blow, with dark, cloudy weather and rain. Typhoons. — The cylonic storms of the China Seas between China and Japan have long been named typhoons, after a Chinese word meaning great wind. The Philippines lie in the track of typhoons, and terrific storms are of frequent occurrence. The local storms that come in the months of May and June, the period of greatest heat, are at times very severe. A typhoon which occurred on 20th October, 1882, left thousands without shelter, and great loss of life and property resulted. These storm.s usually originate southeastwardly from the islands, and move across them into the China Sea, some reaching the China coast, others curving northward toward Japan. The presence of a typhoon ' brings rainy weather over a large area, but the destructive path is narrow. The center of the storm moves with an average velocity of about 9 miles an hour, but the most disastrous storm of recent years, that of September, 1905, moved with nearly twice this velocity. It took this storm a little less than one day to cross the archipelago. The center passed over the steamship Pathfinder, then on the east coast of Samar. The barometer fell to 27.16 inches, the lowest ever recorded in the islands ; it fell 1 inch in half an hour. The wind in these storms is precisely similar to that in all re- volving storms in the northern hemisphere; it revolves round the central area of low pressure in the direction contrary to the motion of the hands of a watch, curving also spirally toward the center, and at the same time the whole storm field advances, sometimes with great velocity and sometimes at scarcely more than the rate of a few miles an hour. The average rate of progress of the center of a typhoon in latitude 11° north is 5 miles an hour; in latitude 13° north, 6.5 miles; in lati- tude 15° north, 8 miles; in latitude 20° north, 9 miles; in latitude 25° north, 11 miles; in latitude 30° north, 14 miles. Southward of latitude 13° north, the rate does not vary perceptibly, but it is more variable farther to the northward, and in latitude 32° 30' north it ranges from 6 to 36 miles. The area over which these storms extend varies from 20 to some hundreds of miles in diameter, and near the land the strong winds are so irregularly distributed, that in a place near the center there may be less wind than at some distance farther away from it. 32 GENERAL EEMAEKS. Typhoons are experienced in the western Pacific and northern part of the China Sea, between the parallels of 9° north and 45° north, and are most prevalent in the months of July, August, Sep- tember, and October; from December to May they seldom happen, still they have been known to occur in every month of the year. Be- tween May and November these storms commonly follow each other quickly, and there are often several raging at one time. They then cease, and there are none perhaps for several weeks. In August and September a total cessation is most unusual, and the equinox is a very precarious period. Typhoons are most frequent in the vicinity of Luzon, Hainan, and southwestward of Japan.- They are said to blow with the great- est fury when near the land, and their violence is not so great when they pass well to the southward of the coast of China. The following table, giving the number of typhoons that occurred at Hongkong during the years 1886-1899, will show the probability of a typhoon being encountered in this portion of these seas in any particular month : Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Total. 1 1 4 10 24 45 43 57 31 22 6 244 In the Philippine Archipelago the typhoons which appeared, either crossing it or passing through it for a greater or less distance, were 468 in number between the years 1880-1901, inclusive, viz : Jan. ret. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Total. 9 2 5 10 25 41 74 74 88 65 51 24 468 Only 2 of the 468 typhoons which were registered from 1880 to 1900, inclusive, occurred in the month of February, and only 5 in the month of March during the complete period. Their frequency then increases from April, when 10 were observed, to July, when 74 occurred. The maximum of 88 is reached in September, thus giving a yearly average of 4 for this month. From October the number gradually diminishes up to January, for which month but 9 are recorded.^ As a rule, typhoons commence from east to southeast of the Philip- pines, whence they advance in courses between west and north-north- west. In May their paths are confined to the Tropics. In June they trend toward Hainan Island, over Hongkong and Swatau, or up the 1 See " The Cyclones of the Far Bast," by Kev. Jos« Algu(!, S. J., director of the Philip- pine Weather Bureau, Manila Observatory. 1904. TYPHOONS. 33 Formosa Channel. In July, August, and September they become general. September is especially dangerous, both for the reasons already mentioned and owing to great irregularity of path caused by the northeast monsoon, which commences in the higher latitudes in fit- ful puffs. In October they are confined to the Tropics by the north- east monsoon, but a few, having their origin well eastward of the Philippines, will make for the southeast coast of Japan. In Novem- ber they blow only between the parallels 9° to 14° north in the China Sea, but, as in October, a few runs northeastward between Okinawa and the Ogasawara Islands. In the central and northern parts of the China Sea their course lies between northwest by west and west by south, those having much northing generally Continuing overland and recurving into the Gulf of Pechili. The typhoons traveling between west by north and west by south usually break up inshore. Those that cross the north end of Luzon in the southwest monsoon either come through the Bashi Channel and make their way up the China coast or else run up the east coast of Taiwan and then hug the North China shore. Both these paths are dangerous. During the latter months of the year typhoons that enter the China Sea after crossing the Philippines in a low latitude occa- sionally recurve to the southwestward ; others, after crossing the Philippines, recurve in the China Sea and reenter the Pacific, passing between Luzon and Taiwan. These latter occur at the beginning and end of the typhoon season, but chiefly in May. In the typhoons of the summer months, which move toward the west-northwest or northwest in the north part of the China Sea and reach the coast in the neighborhood of the Gulf of Tonkin, the area over which the winds become strong, with a decided fall in the barometer in front of the center, is generally small. This is ac- counted for by the low pressure prevailing over the Gulf of Tonkin and the continent beyond it. For the same reason the winds in rear are not only stronger but long continued. In the autumn months (September and October) these conditions are reversed, and in front of the storm the barometer begins to fall, and strong winds blow at great distances from the center, whilst in rear the area over which the winds are governed by the depression is comparatively small. In consequence a vessel in front of a typhoon moving as stated above will usually get much shorter notice of the advance of a typhoon from the barometer in summer than in autumn, and while in summer the bad weather lasts for a long time in rear, in autumn it improves rapidly when the center is past and a strong northeast monsoon sets in. 90045—15 3 34 GENEBAL KEMABKS. The winds round a typhoon center may be said to be composed of cyclonic winds on the one hand and the prevailing wind on the other. Warnings of approach. — In the China Sea the earliest signs of a typhoon are clouds of the cirrus type, looking like fine hair, feathers, or small white tufts of wool traveling from east or north; a slight rise in the barometer; clear and dry hot weather, and light winds. These signs are followed by the usual ugly and threatening appear- ance of the weather which forbodes most storms, and the increasing number and severity of the gusts with the rising of the wind. In some cases one of the earliest signs is a long heavy swell and con- fused sea, which conies from the direction in which the storm is ap- proaching, and travels more rapidly than at the storm's center. The best and surest of all warnings, however, will be found in the barometer. In every case there is great barometric disturbance. Ac- cordingly, if the barometer falls rapidly or even if the regularity of its diurnal variation be interrupted, danger may be apprehended. No positive rule can be given as to the amount of depression to be expected, but at the center of some of the storms the barometer is often 2 inches lower than outside the storm field. Practical rules. — In the typhoon season be constantly on the watch for the premonitory signs, and carefully observe and record the changes of the barometer and wind. When there is reason to believe that a typhoon is approaching, the two points necessary for the seaman to know are (a) the direction iu which the center of the storm is situated; and (&) in which semicircle of the storm the vessel is situated. In order to ascertain these two points it is necessary that the ob- server should be stationary; the first thing therefore to be done is to stop head to wind, or heave to, and as it is always wise to assume the vessel may be in the dangerous semicircle, she should be hove to on the starboard tack (in the northern hemisphere) . There should be no hesitation in heaving to, as the sooner a clear knowledge of the position of the ship in the storm is ascertained the better it will be. To find the bearing of the center the observer should face the wind, when the center will be from 12 to 8 points on the right hand in the northern hemisphere and on the left hand in the southern hemisphere. At the commencement of the storm allow 12 points, when the barom- eter has fallen three-tenths of an inch about 10 points, and when it has fallen six-tenths of an inch or upward 8 points. To ascertain in which semicircle the ship is in watch carefully the way the wind shifts. If the wind shifts to the right the vessel is in the right-hand semicircle, and if to the left in the left-hand semi- circle. This holds good in both hemispheres. If the ship is in the right-hand semicircle she should, if in the northern hemisphere, remain hove to on the starboard tack, but if in GALES. 35 the southern hemisphere run with the wind on the port quarter until the barometer begins to rise. If the ship is in the left-hand semicircle she should, if in the north- ern hemisphere, run with the wind on the starboard quarter, but if in the southern hemisphere remain hove to on the port tack. If in the direct track of the storm the wind will, without change of direction, increase rapidly in force, whilst the barometer continues to fall, and then the most advisable course to pursue is to run with the wind on the starboard quarter in the northern hemisphere, and on the port quarter in the southern hemisphere, until the barometer has ceased to fall. In all cases act so as to increase as soon as possible the distance from the center, bearing in mind that the whole storm field is ad- vancing. In receding from the center of a typhoon the barometer will rise and the wind and sea subside. Gales sometimes blow steadily from east-northeast or northeast several days at a time, in September or October, near the southeast coast of China. In the same months they are liable to happen on the west coast of Luzon. Here they mostly commence at north or northwest and veer to west, southwest, or south, blowing strongly from all these directions, with heavy rain, and a cross, turbulent sea ; but they seldom continue long. In May, June, July, and August severe gales are at times experi- enced in the northwestern part of the China Sea, particularly be- tween latitude 14° north and Hainan Island, the approach to Tonkin Gulf. These gales generally begin at. north-northwest or northwest, and blow with violence out of the gulf, accompanied by dark weather and a deluge of rain. From northwest they shift to west and southwest, still blowing strong, and abate as they shift more southerly. When these northwest gales are blowing in the vicinity of Hainan and the coast of Cochin China, strong southwest or southerly gales generally prevail at the same time in the middle of the China Sea. On May 3, 1904, at 3.30 p. m., a hurricane passed over Saigon, doing considerable damage to property, in which ships broke adrift and native craft suffered greatly. Such an occurrence at Saigon is rare. With respect to the gales of the Philippines, Capt. Villavicencio, who studied the subject during many years, remarks: The gales of the Philippines may be separated Into three classes, known by the local names of coUa, nortada, and baguio. The coUa is a gale In which the wind blows constantly from one quarter, but with varying force and alter- nations of violent squalls, calms, and heavy rain, usually lasting at least three days. These gales occur during the southwest monsoon, and their direction is from the southwest quarter. 36 GENERAL HEMAEKS. The nortada Is distinguished from the coUa in that the direction of the wind being constant also, the force of it remains steady as well, without the alterna- tions of passing squalls, with calms at intervals, which characterize the coUa. The nortada is nearly always indicative of a typhoon passing not very far off. These gales occur chiefly in the northern islands, and their direction, as the name implies, is from the northward. Baguio is the local name for the cyclonic storm known as typhoon in the China Sea, and has already been described. Squalls are common during both monsoons; the most dajigerous are those known as the arch squalls. When clouds are seen rising from the horizon in the shape of an arch, sail should at once be short- ened, as a heavy gust of wind may be expected. These squalls, when the arch is near the zenith, are accompanied by heavy rain. Philippine Islands and Sulu Sea — General remarks. — ^The southwest and northeast monsoons of the China Sea also prevail to a certain extent over the Philippine Islands, the Sulu Sea, and the northern part of the Celebes Sea, but they blow with diminishing force as lower latitudes are reached, and south of latitude 4° north the winds are more variable, and often assimilate to those of the Molucca Channel. Land and sea breezes occur near the coast. Sulu Sea. — In the Sulu Sea the east or northeast monsoon is not a steady fresh breeze, but is often variable. Near Mindanao the northerly winds never blow fresh, and light changeable winds oft«n displace them for several days. The southwest monsoon commences in May and becomes regular in June. During this monsoon the weather is gloomy and very wet. About the end of July or middle of August, and sometimes in October, the weather becomes bad, and severe storms (coUas) occur, which are generally accompanied by thunder and lightning and are not unlike typhoons. In September the wind decreases, the rain is less, and the sky becomes clear, but in the morning there is a thick fog, which lasts till noon. At the change of the monsoon bad weather is felt at times, as in the China Sea. At the commencement of the westerly monsoon the winds are light for some time, with heavy rain, during which the wind blows from an opposite direction, lasting from the eastward sometimes for above a week. Occasionally heavy storms happen until the westerly winds become established. During the whole of this monsoon the weather is cloudy, rainy, and at times stormy. Northeast coast of Borneo. — The northeast monsoon commences about the middle of October and continues till about the middle of April. During the greater part of this time the wind blows steadily and with moderate strength from the north and east, gradually dying out. In the course of this monsoon, more particularly in December and January, there are generally one, two, or three mod- WINDS. 37 erate steady gales, lasting from three to nine days. At other times the wind is a moderate breeze, which, beginning about 11 a. m., gets rather strong toward evening, and dies away in the early morning, when it may be overcome by a gentle land breeze. At the com- mencement and end of the monsoon the wind is not so strong or so steady, and the land breeze continues till later in the forenoon. The southwest monsoon lasts from about the middle of April till the middle of October. The wind as a rule is not so strong in this monsoon; the land breeze in the morning is more marked, and the gales are not so heavy nor so long continued as in the northeast mon- soon. On the other hand, there are frequently squalls in the after- noon and evening, lasting for an hour or two, and sometimes blow- ing with the strength of a fresh gale. Neither in this monsoon nor in the northeast monsoon does the wind rise to the strength of a storm or even of a whole gale. The prevailing winds in the afternoon during the southwest mon- soon on this part of the coast of Borneo, north of Tanjong Unsang, are generally east to south. Southward of Unsang they are .usually more westerly, but always light. At night there is generally a land breeze. The first typhoon recorded (as far as known) at Sandakan was experienced on October 31, 1904, and caused great loss of property. Every boat in the harbor was destroyed, numerous small craft were sunk or driven on shore, and extensive damage was caused to the coconut plantations. These storms are seldom experienced so far south. One is recorded in December, 1892, as traveling through Balabac Strait in a west-northwest direction, its center passing about 60 miles northward of Sandakan. Greneral remarks.^ — ^From the foregoing the following general remarks on the winds and weather of the Eastern Archipelago have been deduced: North of the equator. — ^Northeasterly winds prevail from Decem- ber to March, inclusive. This is the fine season, the winds blowing strong and steadily except in the Sulu Sea, where variables prevail. Southerly winds prevail from May to September, inclusive. This is the wet season, and the winds are variable in force and direction, with bad weather. Sudden and violent squalls from the northwest occur in the Celebes and Sulu Seas. October and November are unsettled months, the northeast mon- soon not being fairly established before the middle of December. Rainy seasons. — In this archipelago, situated as it is in the vicinity of the Equator and within the regions of calms and doldrums caused by the meeting of the northern and southern wind systems, the wet and dry seasons are not strongly contrasted, as a great amount of 38 GENERAL EEMAEKS. rain falls more or less all the year round. The same monsoon is often stormy at sea but fine near the land. As a rule, bad weather with rain is felt on coasts and islands that lie to windward, whilst lee- ward coasts enjoy fine weather. Storm signals.— The following storm warnings are based upon information collected by the Philippine weather bureau. Their meaning is the same wherever shown in the Philippine Archipelago. During the day the signals are made by means of a cylinder, cone, and ball, all three black, and a flag of any convenient color, and at night by white and red lights, placed either vertically or horizon- tally ; if horizontal, they are read from left to right. 1. A cylinder indicates a distant typhoon; movements uncertain. At night, two white lights. 2. A cone, point upward, above a cylinder indicates that a typhoon will pass some distance to the northward and that strong gales be- tween south and west are probable. At night, one white light and one red light. 3. A cylinder above a cone, point downward, indicates that a typhoon will pass some distance to the southward and that strong winds between east and south are probable. At night, two red lights. 4. A ball above a cone, point upward, indicates a typhoon likely to be dangerous, but danger is not imminent. Look out for next signal. At night, three white lights. 5. A cone, point upward, indicates that a typhoon will pass close northward and that strong gales from north, through west to south, are probable and may become very violent. At night, one red light between two white lights. 6. A cone, point downward, indicates that a typhoon will pass close southward and that strong gales from north, through east to south, are probable and may become -very violent. At night, one white light and two red lights. 7. A ball indicates the typhoon center will pass over the place. At night, one white light between two red lights. 8. A flag (of any color) above a ball indicates strong winds, very high tides, and floods. No vessels can come in or go out of port nor move about the harbor. At night, three red lights. On any one of the above-mentioned signals being made, mariners should take every possible precaution to insure the safety of their vessels. CURRENTS AND TIDES. Currents are mostly wind drifts, and the surface velocity is greater in the northwest than in the southeast monsoon. Through Sunda Strait a perennial stream runs southwestward from the Java Sea and is turned to the southeast by the current setting eastward along CUEEBNTS AND TIDES. 39 the shores of Sumatra and Java. There is a constant current of considerable strength through the Strait of Makassar to the south- ward, which is pressed southwestward during the southeast mon- soon and southeastward by the northwest monsoon, so that the flow of water through the passages between the islands east of Java is greater to the south than to the north. In Timor Sea and south- ward of the Sunda Islands the direction of the current is about west- southwest at all times. Tidal streams will interrupt or may appear to reverse these conditions. Sunda Strait. — There is a southwesterly current setting through Sunda Strait nearly all the year round, but much affected by the prevailing wind. Its effect on the tidal streams is to retard or over- come the northeasterly or flood stream and to increase the ebb or southwesterly stream. In th.e Java Sea the currents are for the most part influenced by the prevailing monsoon, and are generally stronger during the north- west than in the southeast monsoon. They incline to the northward or southward, according to the influence of the currents of Sunda, Banka, and Gaspar Straits; for, during the northeast monsoon they run to the eastward, or more southerly, according to the set of those - which come from the straits ; and in the southeast monsoon they run to the westward or more northerly from a similar cause. Banka Strait is chiefly tidal, but greatly affected by the winds. (See details in the body of the work.) In Gaspar and Carimata Straits the current depends greatly on the strength of the wind. During the strength of either monsoon, the current, when accelerated by the tidal stream, runs from 2 to 3 laiots per hour with the wind. When the monsoon is light and the tidal stream is against the wind there is little or no current, and the tidal stream at times overcomes it. The principal currents in the China Sea are the northeast and southwest monsoon drifts. They are both very changeable, their direction and velocity depending much upon local circumstances, but that during the northeast monsoon is the stronger and the more constant. Northeast monsoon period. — ^The current in the China Sea during the northeast monsoon generally runs to the southwestward with a velocity depending on the strength of the wind. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate and light breezes, there is often little or no current. The current on the western side of the great mass of reefs included between Prince Consort Bank and Ladd Eeef is usually slack, even during the strength of the monsoon, and at other times is setting to windward. From Ladd Eeef to North Danger Eeef there is invariably 40 GENEEAL EEMAEKS. a current setting to the northeast. When the British surveying vessel Rifleman was at anchor on the reefs during both monsoons careful observations were taken of the set of the current, which, for 16 hours out of the 24, invariably set to windward, generally with the greatest force when the monsoon was strongest. On the southern coast of China the current during the northeast monsoon runs almost constantly west-southwest, nearly parallel to the land, and sometimes with considerable rapidity, when a typhoon or a storm occurs. The current at the distance of 70 or 80 miles from the coast seldom runs so strong as near it ; and in depths of 30 or 40 fathoms there is much less current than in shallow water near the shore and amongst the ' islands. The westerly current sometimes slacks, and contiguous to the land the tidal streams prevail, when not overcome by the force of the current, especially at springs. When strong northeast winds prevail the direction of the current is generally from southwest to south, between the south end of Formosa and the north end of Luzon ; but in light variable winds it often sets to the northward. On the west coast of Luzon the current is change- able, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times northward, but always with a decided tendency toward the coast. On the coast of Palawan it is also governed by the prevailing winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless impelled by gales. Southwest monsoon period. — Late in April or early in May the current generally begins to set to the northward, in the southern and middle parts of the China Sea, and while the southwest monsoon is strong continues to run in a northeasterly direction until September ; but it is not constant in this monsoon, for at times, when the wind is moderate or light, it is liable to change and set in various directions. After the strength of the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current in the open sea, running to the northeastward; and sometimes its direction is to the southward. On the coasts of Luzon and Palawan the current generally sets to the northward and toward the land in the southwest monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and near these coasts it seldom runs with much strength. Occasionally a slight southwesterly set will be experienced in the Palawan Passage during this monsoon. Near the Bashi Islands it sometimes sets eastward when strong westerly winds prevail; but generally strongly to the northward or between north- northwest and northeast. Sulu Sea. — During the northeast monsoon in the Sulu Sea the current runs regularly in the direction of the wind and varies in strength according to the force of the wind. In the early months of this monsoon, when the wind blows strongest, the current runs with the velocity of a mile an hour, decreasing to about half a mile an hour in May. In June the current reverses with the wind. Between CUEEENTS AND TIDES. 41 Sulu and Sandakan, in October and November, the current has been found to set south at the rate of from 1 to 1^ knots an hour. Equatorial current and counter current. — The westerly equa- torial drift in the North Pacific, caused by the northeast trades, ex- tends toward the Equator from about latitude 25° north on the eastern side to latitude 20° north as the Asiatic islands are neared. In the South Pacific that caused by the southeast trades will generally be found to extend from about latitude 20° or 25° south to and consider- ably northward of the Equator, its further southern limit being toward the American side of the ocean. Near the equatorial limits of these currents the set is almost due west, but between them is the counter equatorial current setting in the opposite direction and sometimes with considerable strength. Though the limits of the counter current are imperfectly defined, it appears to lie always northward of the Equator, generally between the parallels of 4° and 9° north latitude, more commonly between 5° north and 8° north, though sometimes its influence has been felt almost down to the Equator, and it never exceeds 5° in width. It varies greatly in strength, running from half a knot to 2 loiots an hour, and, so far as is known, with the season also, being stronger from May to October than during the other half of the year, when it sometimes appears to cease. Tides. — Along the southern shores of the archipelago, and where open to the Indian Ocean, semidiurnal tides are found and a port establishment exists. In Molucca and Celebes Seas the solar and lunar influences approach an equal value, and the tides entering Makassar Strait are of very mixed character; at Pulo Laut, at the southwest entrance, being mostly semidiurnal, while at Makassar they are mainly diurnal. ^Vhen diurnal tides predominate, the moon's influence is seen mostly in height, and the highest (or spring) tides do not follow the phases of the moon, but depend largely on declination and paral- lax. Although tidal phenomena are in no way due to the monsoons, it is sometimes convenient to refer them to such well-marked peri- odical seasons. In the western part of the Java Sea the tide is almost exclusively single daily, with a much greater rise in the northern part than in the southern. Along the Java coast the double-daily tide is not ap- preciable until eastward of Surabaya Strait, with the exception of Boompjes Island, where there is a mixed tide. The disappearance of the double-daily tide is probably due to the fact that this tide has high water on the north coast of Madura simultaneously with low water at Tanjong Selatan, on the south coast of Borneo. A similar phenomenon occurs in the western part of the Java Sea, between the narrows of Sunda Strait and the southern part of Gaspar Strait, 42 GENERAL EEMARKS. causing the entire disappearance of the double-daily tide among the Thousand Islands. The tidal movement along the south coast of Borneo is imperfectly known, owing to the lack of observations in the western part, but the fact that the double-daily tide is more pronounced here than along the Java coast is due to the inflow of that tide from Makassar Strait. The main tidal wave is composed of many undulations, entering through the various passages from the open sea, and as these com- ponent waves alter in relative values from point to point, the results will differ greatly at places a comparatively short distance apart. The wave is propagated from east to west, and on the north coast of Java its progress is so slow that high water at Surabaya Strait, which occurs in June at 10 a. m., reaches Semarang at noon and does not arrive at Batavia until 10 p. m. Over the eastern parts of the archipelago few and scattered ob- servations only have been made, so that no general laws on tidal movements can be deduced. The periodical fluctuations in the mean water level are small. Tidal streams in open waters are generally weak, and merely strengthen or reduce currents due to monsoon winds; in contracted passages, however, they may become of considerable importance. In the narrow parts of Sunda Strait flood and ebb streams are due to the diurnal tide of Java Sea. In the channels leading to Batavia they are only marked during calms of the turning months of the monsoons. Through the straits east of Java flood runs north and ebb south. In Madura Strait flood is west, ebb east. In the south- ern part of Makassar Strait flood runs north and ebb south. Tides. — Throughout the eastern seas the rise and fall of the tide is largely affected by diurnal inequality. On the east coast of Sumatra the tides are usually semidiurnal, with a rise of 4 feet at Segli, increasing to 8 feet at Bengkalis and 12 feet in Rupat Strait. On the west coast of Sumatra there is but little rise and fall, and what there is does not seem to follow any known laws. In the lati- tude of Pulo Raja (about 5° north) 8 hours may be assumed as the time of high water at full and change and the rise from 2 to 3 feet. At places near the Equator the time is about 6 hours. Southward of the Rhio and Linga Archipelagos to Tanjong Kalian the diurnal tides are the most important, but northward of these islands to Singapore the semidiurnal tides have the superiority. The relations of both tides among these islands is, however, not known with certainty. Tides — China Sea. — The observations on tides in the China Sea are neither numerous enough nor complete enough to permit of TIDES. 43 accurate generalizations being made for the whole area. The follow- ing remarks, however, based on the existing evidence, afford some idea of the general tidal movement: They are affected by . a diurnal inequality, especially of height, causing a difference between the heights of successive high and low waters, which varies throughout the lunation and sometimes attains large proportions. The difference may be almost imperceptible or may be so great that the movement of the water between the lower high water and higher low water is reduced to a mere stand in the level of the water, giving the effect of only one high and low water during the 24 hours. The time of high water is generally the most regular feature of the tides and follows the time of the moon's transit as usual. Spring tides depend upon the opposition and conjunction of the moon and sun (full or new moon) , and also on the attainment by the moon of her higher declination north or south. The higher water of each day follows either the superior or infe- rior transit of the moon when she is on one side of the equator, and the opposite transit when she is on the other side of the equator. The particular transit followed by the tide varies in different locali- ties. "When the sun has north declination, the higher tides about springs occur during the day, and when it has south declination, during the night. Tides — Philippine Islands and Sulu Sea. — The observations on tides in the area covered by this book are neither numerous enough nor complete enough to permit of accurate generalizations being made for the whole area. The following remarks, however, based on the existing evidence, afford some idea of the general tidal movement. They are affected by a diurnal inequality, especially of height, causing a difference between the heights of successive high and low waters, which varies throughout the lunation, and sometimes attains large proportions. The difference may be almost imperceptible, or may be so great that the movement of the water between the lower high water and higher low water is reduced to a mere stand in the level of the water, giving the effect of only one high and low water during the 24 hours. The time of high water is generally the most regular feature of the tides and follows the time of the moon's transit as usual. Spring tides depend upon the opposition and conjunction of the moon and sun (full or new moon), and also on the attainment by the moon of her higher declination north or south. The effect of these two positions of the moon is about equal on the tide, so that when the moon is either new or full, at the same time that she is in high north or south declination, the spring tide is high 44 GENERAL EEMABKS. and well defined. When the new or full moon occurs when she is on the equator, the spring tide is sometimes almost lost. The higher water of each day follows either the superior or infe- rior transit of the moon when she is on one side of the equator, and the opposite transit when she is on the other side of the equator. The particular transit followed by the tide varies in different locali- ties. Among the Philippine Islands when the sun has north declination the higher tides about springs occur during the day, and when it has south declination, during the night. The mean tide level varies during' the year ; on the coast of Luzon it is lowest in February and highest in September. Throughout the Eastern Archipelago the tides are largely affected by diurnal inequality. At Ubian Island, in the Sulu Sea, near the equinoxes there are two complete tides in each 24 hours; near the solstices only one tide in that time. When the sun has north declina- tion the higher high tide is in the daytime, and at night when it has south declination. In the channels between the Sulu Islands the tidal streams are strong and irregular and overrun the times of high and low water by from two to three hours. PASSAGES. SINGAPORE TO ADEN. Sail and auxiliary steam routes — ^April to September.— Work or steam to the southward through Banka and Sunda Straits, and thence run across the Indian Ocean with the southeast trade and southwest monsoon, passing southward of the Chagos group and northeastward of the Seychelles, crossing the Equator in about 53° or 54° east, and making the African coast between Eas Hafun and Eas Asir. From Eas Asir work or steam along the north coast of Africa up to Burnt Island and thence stand across for Aden. SINGAPORE TO HONGKONG. Sailing route — Wortheast monsoon — October to February. — The passage by the coasts of Palawan and Luzon is recommended, but in December, January, and February vessels should not leave the entrance of Singapore Strait in strong northeast winds, as the current at such times runs to the south-southeast from 2^ to 3 knots an hour. After these gales the wind generally backs to north and northwest and the current decreases. The route is to the northeast- ward, passing between Great Natuna and the South Natuna Islands, thence between the Eoyal Charlotte and Louisa Eeefs, through the Palawan Passage and along the coast of Luzon as far as Point Piedra, and thence across the China Sea for Hongkong, passing to leeward of the Pratas Shoals. SAILING EOUTES. 45 Should the main route be adopted, vessels, after passing the Natuna Islands, should work to the northward, keeping as close to the west- ern edge of the reefs as possible, where the current is generally favor- able, and having arrived in the large space of open sea to the north- ward of 12° north, should stand to the eastward and work up the coast of Luzon as far as Point Piedra and thence stand across for Hongkong. Atixiliary steam route. — Stand over to the Borneo coast and through the Api Pass ; thence between the South Luconia Shoals and Barram Point, keeping as close to the Borneo coast up to that point as circumstances will permit ; proceed through the Palawan Passage and along the west coast of Luzon as far as Piedra Point, and then across to Hongkong, passing to leeward of the Pratas Shoals. Coal can be obtained at Labuan and Manila. Hongkong Road is generally approached by sailing vessels from the westward. It may be approached from the eastward through the Lyemun Pass during the northeast monsoon, but the winds are gen- erally baffling under the high land, for which reason it is not much used by sailing vessels. HONGKONG TO SINGAPORE. Full-powered sailing route — Southwest monsoon — May to September. — After leaving Hongkong the usual practice is to stand toward Hainan Island, which will often be fetched without tacking, as the wind frequently blows for days together from the southeast or eastward in that part of the China Sea; thence across the Gulf of Tonkin to the Cochin China coast and down that coast with the land and sea breezes which generally prevail there as far as Cape Varella, or, if possible. Cape Padaran; thence stretch off to the southward, making a tack, if necessary, to weather the West London Reefs, till the coast of Borneo is reached. Working along the coast of Borneo and through any of the South Naturna Channels, standing across to Singapore, keeping well to the southward before closing Bintang Island so as to allow for the current, which runs very strongly, sometimes 2 knots an hour, to the northward. In March and April vessels should take the main route, keeping to the eastward on leaving the China coast; and also in passing Pulo Sapatu they should stand more to the eastward toward the shoals, where the winds are more favorable than farther to the westward. The Palawan route may also be taken in these months. ENGLAND TO CfflNA, BOUND THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. Full-powered steam route. — Follow the route to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence keep along shore out of the strength of the Agulhas current, but avoiding all salient points, as far as Algoa Bay- -'i4.'if' 46 GENERAL EBMAEKS. From Algoa Bay follow the great circle route to Sunda Strait (the great circle from Cape Eecife to Java Head passes just south of the Cocos or Keeling Islands) , and thence pass through the Gaspar Strait and east of the Anamba Islands, and take the main route up the China Sea. If calling at Singapore from Sunda Strait pass through the Banka and Ehio Straits to Singapore and thence take the main route. The coaling stations are Las Palmas, Sierra Leone, Cape of Good Hope, Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) , Batavia, and Singapore. The distances from Plymouth are : Las Palmas, 1,410 miles ; Sierra Leone, 2,700; Cape of Good Hope, 5,840; Port Elizabeth, 6,230; Sunda Strait, 10,850; Batavia, 11,000; Singapore, 11,440; and to Hongkong, 12,720 miles, but 60 more to Hongkong if calling at Batavia, and about 170 more if calling at Singapore. If calling at Mauritius, the distances to Sunda Strait and places beyond would be increased by about 140 miles. Sailing routes. — Follow the route to the Cape of Good Hope until beyond the southeast trade, and thence on the great circle track to cross 20° east in 39° to 40° south, afterwards keeping between those parallel till up to St. Paul Island or to about 80° east. After passing St. Paul Island, from April to September, edge off to the northeast and cross 30° south in about 100° east, and 20° south in about 105° east, and pass close to the westward of Christ- mas Island to Java Head, but care must be taken to keep well to the eastward, especially in June, July, and August, when the southeast monsoon is at its strongest, or otherwise the vessel will f aU to leeward of Java Head, where the wind sometimes backs to east or east-north- east and the current sets strongly to the westward, and will experi- ence difficulty in making Sunda Strait. From Sunda Strait proceed through Banka Strait and to the north- ward, passing between the Anamba and Natuna Islands into the China Sea. Thence proceed direct between the Paracels and the Mac- clesfield bank to Hongkong. The Gaspar Strait is more direct than the Banka Strait to the China Sea, and is frequently used, but in thick weather Banka Strait can be taken without risk, whilst Gaspar Strait can never be ap- proached at such times without incurring considerable danger. From October to April, after passing St. Paul Island, cross 30° south in about 95° east, and thence stand direct to Sunda Strait, taking care to pass well to the westward of Java Head, as westerly winds blow with great violence along the south coast of Java ; but if contrary winds are met with after passing St. Paul Island, stand at once to the northward through the southeast trade into the north- west monsoon, and thence direct to Sunda Strait. SAILING ROUTES. 47 During the change of monsoons (mid-March to mid- April and mid- September to mid-October) , when the winds are variable and uncer- tain, it is advisable to make sufficient easting in the southeast trade to bring Java Head to bear north, and then to steer direct for it. If calling at Singapore from Sunda Strait work to the northward through Banka and Rhio Straits to Singapore, and thence up the China Sea by the Palawan route. When the northeast monsoon is blowing strong in the China Sea vessels may proceed through Ber- hala and Durian Straits to Singapore, instead of beating about out- side against a heavy sea and an adverse current to Ehio Strait. This is a very tedious passage, and a vessel has been known to take 30 days from Sunda Strait to Singapore, a distance of only 500 miles. If not calling at Singapore, vessels should take one of the eastern passages to China. The following observations should be taken into consideration when making the passage at this season : If St. Paul Island be passed after the end of September, when the northeast monsoon will be met with before Hongkong is reached, or if bound north of Hongkong at this season of the year, there are five routes open, and the advantages and disadvantages of each should be duly weighed in making a choice as to which is the most advisable to follow : 1. Vessels may proceed through Sunda Strait, Gaspar Strait, and by the Palawan Passage. 2. Vessels may proceed by Sunda Strait, through the Java Sea, Makassar Strait, Celebes Sea, and Verde Island Passage, and up the coast of Luzon, but this is not recommended, as Makassar Strait is full of shoals and badly surveyed. 3. Vessels may pass through Sunda Strait, Salayar Strait, Pitt Passage, and into the Pacific by Gillolo or Dampier Strait. 4. Vessels may pass through Ombai Passage, across the Flores Sea, and through Manipa Strait into Pitt" Passage and out into the Pacific. 5. Vessels may go round south of Australia or Tasmania and pro- ceed toward China and Japan on the east side of Australia and through the passage between the Solomon Islands and New Britain. With regard to No. 1 route it will be observed that the northeast monsoon does not usually commence in the southern part of the China Sea until the first week in November. Vessels, therefore, which get through Sunda and Carimata Straits before that time may adopt this route with advantage; but if adverse winds are met in Carimata Strait, routes 2 or 3 should be at once adopted, and preferably route 3. If passing St. Paul Island after November, take routes 4 or 5. 48 GENERAL EBMAKKS. Leaving Sunda Strait in October and November, vessels may take the first eastern .passage — viz, south of Borneo, through the Maliassar Strait and Celebes Sea, and into the Sulu Sea by the Ba- silan Strait; then along the west coasts of Mindinao, Negros, and Panay Islands and into the China Sea by Mindoro Strait or Verde Island Passage. From this work along the coast of Luzon as far as Cape Bolinao (Point Piedra) or even to Cape Bojeador, and thence stand across the China Sea, passing to leeward of the Pratas Shoals, and entering Hongkong by the Lema and West Lamma Channels. This route is not recommended, however, as the Makassar Strait is full of shoals and badly surveyed. Bound to northern China or to Japan, vessels should enter the Pacific between Mindanao and Celebes and pass eastward of For- mosa Island. Leaving Sunda Strait in the latter half of November and in December, January, and February, vessels should take the second eastern passage — viz, south of Borneo, through Salayar Strait (be- tween southwest end of Celebes and Salayar Island), south of Buton Island, through Pitt Passage, and into the Pacific Ocean by Gillolo or Dampier Strait; after which, making easting between 1° 30' north and 3° north till able to pass east of the Pelew Islands, when stand to the northward and enter the China Sea between Formosa and Luzon by either the Bashi or Balingtang Channel, and thence steer direct for Hongkong. After February pass westward of the Pelew Islands. A smart sailing vessel could pass west of the Pelew Islands before February. Bound to northern China or Japan, pass east of Formosa. Vessels taking the first eastern passage may enter the Java Sea by Bali, Lombok, or Alas Strait, instead of by Sunda Strait, and thence through Makassar Strait, etc. Those taking the second eastern passage may enter the Flores Sea by the Ombai Pass. These should, after passing St. Paul Island, enter the southeast trade in about 110° east and, after passing North- west Cape (in Australia), steer direct for and through the Ombai Pass, across the Flores Sea, and through Manipa Strait into Pitt Passage, etc. There is another route round Australia, known as the Great East- ern route, which has been taken with great success by vessels passing the Cape of Good Hope in September. From the cape keep between the parallels of 39° and 40° south as far as the meridian of Cape Leeuwin, and thence proceed through Bass Strait or south of Tas- mania. Thence stand to the northeast and pass west of New Cale- donia and between Solomon Islands and New Britain, and cross the SAILING EOUTES. 49 Equator in about 156° east. Thence as direct as possible.. There is, however, a possibility of meeting a cyclonic storm in this track before crossing the Equator. Auxiliary steam routes. — -As in the routes to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence as in the sailing route to Sunda Strait. But from October to February, instead of taking either of the eastern passages to Hongkong from Sunda Strait, vessels should steam through Banka or Gaspar Strait, and across to the Borneo coast and thence follow the Palawan route to Hongkong. Coal can be obtained at Labuan and Manila. HONGKONG TO ENGLAND, ROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Full-powered steam route. — Direct down the China Sea, passing west of the Paracels and the Anambas, if calling at Singapore, and thence through Rhio and Banka Straits to Sunda Strait. If not calling at Singapore, pass east of the Paracels and Great Natuna Island, and through Gaspar Strait to Sunda Strait. From Sunda Strait follow the rhumb-line course across the south- ern Indian Ocean to make the African coast about 200 miles south- ward of Natal, and keeping in the strength of the Agulhas current to abreast Mossel Bay, proceed direct around Cape Agulhas. From the Cape of Good Hope the route is the reverse of the out- ward route. The coaling stations on or near the route are Singapore, Batavia, Mauritius, Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay), Cape of Good Hope, Sierra Leone, and Las Palmas. The distances from Hongkong are: To Sunda Strait, 1,780 miles; Cape of Good Hope, 6,850 miles ; and Plymouth, 12,790 miles. Sailing routes — Southwest monsoon. — In March and April and the early part of May stand over to the coast of Luzon and proceed through the Palawan Passage, along the coast of Borneo, through the Api Pass, round Serutu Island, and through the Carimata Strait, ' and thence close round the North Watcher to Sunda Strait. By this route vessels are likely to carry easterly winds and fine weather with a smooth sea the whole distance and will avoid calms. Leaving at the end of April, another route is to stand toward the Macclesfield Bank, and thence follow the first eastern passage, viz, through Mindorb Strait, along the coast of Panay, through Basilan Strait, the Celebes Sea, and the Makassar Strait to the Strait of Sunda, or through the Malucco Passage if entering the Indian Ocean by one of the channels eastward of Java (Alas, Lombok, or Bali Straits). If taking the Makassar Strait, it must be remem- bered that it is very imperfectly surveyed. 90045—15 4 50 GENERAL EEMAEKS. From mid-May to the end of July a vessel should stand across the China Sea and enter the Pacific by the Balingtang Channel and stand to the southeastward, tacking if necessary, so as not to round the Pelew Islands too far to the eastward, and thence make southing and pass through either Gillolo or Dampier Strait into Pitt Passage, and thence through Manipa Strait, across the Banda Sea, and into the Indian Ocean by the Ombai Pass. In August a vessel should stand toward Hainan Island and cross the Gulf of Tong-King and work down the Cochin China coast, with the land and sea breezes, as far as Cape Varella or Cape Pada- ran. Thence cross to the coast of Borneo, tacking if necessary, to weather the West London or other reefs, and work along that coast and pass through the Carimata or Caspar Strait to the Strait of Sunda. Northeast monsoon — October to February. — Pass west of the Paracels, east of Pulo Sapatu, between the Anamba and Natuna Islands, and through Banka or Caspar Strait to the Strait of Sunda. From May to October, when in the Indian Ocean, shape a course to pass about 100 miles southward of Madagascar and make the African coast about 200 miles southward of Natal, and keep in the strength of the Agulhas current until abreast of Mossel Bay, when proceed direct round Cape Agulhas; but with westerly winds, after passing Algoa Bay, keep on the Agulhas Bank, not more than 40 or 50 miles from the shore, where the sea will be smoother than off the bank in the strength of the Agulhas current. From November to April, during the northwest monsoon, from the Strait of Sunda, or any of the straits eastward of it, stand to the southward into the southeast trade and afterwards proceed as above, remembering that this is the cyclone season in the southern hemis- phere. When round the Cape of Good Hope run through the southeast trade, passing east of St. Helena, on either side of Ascension, and crossing the Equator in about 25° west. Thence work to the north- ward into the northeast trade, run through it, and when in the west- erly winds shape a course for the English Channel. Auxiliary steam routes— March to September. — The main route down the China Sea should be taken in March and April (the inner route afterwards), calling at Singapore for coal; thence through Caspar or Banka Strait to Sunda Strait. October to February — Northeast monsoon. — As in the sailing route. From Sunda Strait to England the route is the same as the sailing route, using steam through light head winds and calms. SAILING ROUTES. 51 SAIGON TO SINGAPORE. Sailing routes — Southwest monsoon — April to September. — Steer to the southwestward until the regular monsoon is met with and then stand to the southeastward, and when beyond the Great Natuna Island a fast sailing vessel may fetch Singapore Strait by passing just northward of the South Natuna Islands. Dull sailing vessels should pass through the Api Passage, and keep along the Borneo coast as far as the Burong Islands before standing across for Singapore. SINGAPORE TO MANILA. Full-powered steam routes — Southwest monsoon— March to September. — Follow the main route up the China Sea till beyond 12° north, and thence direct for Manila. Northeast monsoon — October to February. — Take the Pala- wan Passage. The distance is about the same by either route — viz, 1,370 miles. During both monsoons the Palawan route offers the advantage of freedom from typhoons. Sail and auxiliary steam routes — Southwest monsoon — March to September. — As in the full-powered steam route, but until May keeping more toward the Cochin China coast, as the mon- soon sets in earlier on the western coasts than in the open sea. Wortheast monsoon — October to February. — Take the Palawan Passage, as when bound to Hongkong. MANILA TO SINGAPORE. Full-powered steam routes. — There are two routes as in the reverse passage. During the northeast monsoon, stand across the China Sea, not going to the southward of 12° north till past 114° east, and then follow the main route down the China Sea. During the southwest monsoon, by taking the Palawan Passage, vessels will avoid the strong adverse currents of the China Sea. Sail and auxiliary steam routes — Northeast monsoon — October to April. — Through the Palawan Passage and afterwards as direct as possible. Southwest monsoon— May to September. — Through the Pala- wan Passage and along the coast of Borneo as far as the Burong Islands before crossing over to Singapore. SINGAPORE TO PORT DARWIN. Full-powered steam routes.— Through Carimata and Sapudi Straits and thence along the parallel of 8° south until north of Ombai Island, when proceed through Wetta Passage and round the northeast end of Timor and direct. Distance, 1,900 miles. 52 GENERAL REMARKS. An alternative route during, the northwest monsoon, from Novem- ber to March, is, when through the Carimata Strait, to make for the south end of Celebes, pass through the Salayar Strait, and thence across the Flores Sea for the Wetta Passage and as above. Sail and auxiliary steam route — Northwest monsoon- November to March. — Through Carimata and Sapudi Straits and into the Indian Ocean by Lombok or Alas Straits, and thence direct. Southeast monsoon — April to September. — Cross the China Sea, passing south of the Great Natunas and between the Koyal Char- lotte and Louisa Banks ; thence pass through the Balabac Strait, cross the Sulu and Celebes Seas, pass through the Molucca Channel, across Pitt Passage and through Manipa Strait. Thence pass east of Turtle and Damma Islands, and between Sermattan and Baba Islands and direct. Between the monsoons auxiliary steamers should follow the full- powered steam route. PORT DARWIN TO SINGAPORE. Full-powered steam routes — Northwest monsoon. — Novem- ber to March. — Round the northeast end of Timor Island, pass through "Wetta Channel, and along the parallel of 8° south as far as Lombok; thence through Sapudi and Carimata Straits to Singapore. Southeast monsoon — ^April to October. — Pass to the southward of Timor and Sandalwood Islands and through Alas, Sapudi, and Carimata Straits. Sail and auxiliary steam routes — Northwest monsoon. — Stand to the northward and pass through Manipa Strait and the Molucca or Gillolo Channels; thence across the Celebes and Sulu Seas and through the Balabac Strait into the China Sea to Singapore. An atixiliary steam vessel might instead follow the full-powered steam route, coaling at Surabaya, if necessary, but steam would be required the whole way. Southeast monsoon. — The same as the full-powered steam route at this season. SINGAPORE TO SYDNEY. Full-powered steam route. — Through Carimata and Sapudi Straits and along the parallel of 8° south until north of Ombai Island, when proceed through Wetta passage and direct for Torres Strait. From Torres Strait follow the inner route along the coast of Australia. Distance, 4,300 miles. Near the line of route coal can be obtained at Koepang on the southwest end of Timor Island, at Amboina, and perhaps at Thurs- day Island and Coolrtown. SAILING ROUTES. 53 During the northwest monsoon (November to March) another route is, after leaving Carimata Strait, to steer for the south end of Celebes Island, pass through the Salayar Strait, cross the Flores Sea to the Wetta Passage, and then proceed as above. Another route at any time of the year, if not required to call at east Australian ports, is to proceed through Banka and Sunda Straits and direct around the south coast of Australia and through Bass Strait. Coal can be obtained at the following places and the distances to them from Singapore are: Batavia, 500 miles; King George Sound, 2,470; Port Adelaide, 3,510; Melbourne, 3,820; and Sydney, 4,350 miles. Sail and auxiliary steam route — Southeast monsoon — April to October. — Work or steam through Rhio and Banka Straits to Sunda Strait. From Sunda Strait run through the southeastly trade into the westerly winds and thence proceed to the southward of Australia and through Bass Strait. In making for Bass Strait great care is necessary to prevent being set onto King Island by the uncer- tain strength of the current ; vessels should make Moonlight Head, or some point of the coast even more to the westward, to make sure of their position, before shaping a course through Bass Strait. When through Bass Strait steer to pass about 60 miles off Cape Howe, and then along the coast outside the strength of the southerly current. By this route vessels also go when bound to Swan River or to the south Australian ports. Sailing routes — Northwest monsoon — Wovember to March. — Variable winds from north, northeast, and northwest will be expe- rienced until to the southward of Banka or Belitung Islands, and vessels should proceed through Banka or Carimata Straits and through Sapudi and Bali Straits into the Indian Ocean. Then run through the northwest monsoon, keeping well to the westward off the Australian coast, and through the southeastly trade into the west- erly winds, and proceed round the south end of Tasmania to avoid the easterly winds which prevail at this season along the south coast of Australia. Vessels leaving Singapore between mid-November and mid-Febru- ary could enter the Indian Ocean by Alas Strait and proceed for and through Torres Strait. Vessels should leave Torres Strait by Raine Island entrance, or preferably by the Great Northeast Chan- nel, and afterwards take every advantage of westerly winds to make easting, and endeavor to reach to about 15° south and 156° east, going as much as practicable over the frequented routes shown in the chart. 54 GENERAL EEMAEKS. With the southeastly trade a vessel should pass, if the wind permit, between Keen and Wreck Keefs on the east side and Frederick and Saumerez Eeef s on the west ; otherwise to leeward of the two latter ; and from Sandy Cape keep the land in sight, so as to profit by the southerly current. Auxiliary steam route — Worth^^eEt moEsoon. — As in the sail- ing route as far as Torres Strait and afterwards through the inner route inside of the Great Barrier Reefs, or the full-powered stream route could be followed the whole way. SYDNEY TO SINGAPORE. Full-powered steam route. — Follow the inner route to Torres Strait and proceed to the northeast end of Timor Island, through the Wetta Channel, and along the parallel of 8° south as far as Lombok Island, and through Sapudi and Carimata Straits to Singapore. Distance, 4,160 miles. If not calling at any of the east Australian ports, an alternative route is through Bass Strait, round Cape Leeuwin, and through Sunda Strait, the distance being about the same. Sail and auxiliary steam route — Southeast rtionsoon — March to September. — Follow the inner route to Torres Strait and pass to the southward of Timor and Sandalwood Islands, so as to keep in the strength of the monsoon, and through Alas, Sapudi, and Cari- mata Straits to Singapore. An auxiliary steam vessel may follow the full-powered steam route from Torres Strait instead of the above. Sailing route — Northwest monsoon — November to Febru- ary. — Stand to the northward and pass eastward of New Guinea to about 6° north, near which northeasterly winds will be found. Pro- ceed south of Mindanao Island, through Basilan Strait, across the Sula Sea, and into the China Sea by the Balabac Strait direct to Singapore. An alternative route is to follow the middle route to Hongkong as far as the China Sea and thence the main route down the 'China Sea to Singapore. Auxiliary steam route. — Through Bass Strait, along the south coast of Australia, calling at King George Sound for coal, if neces- sary, and then round Cape Leeuwin and through Sunda Strait. This is the season for easterly winds on the south coast of Australia, but the route is not recommended for sailing vessels on account of the difficulty experienced between Sunda Strait and Singapore. LABUAN TO SINGAPORE. Both monsoons. — Along the Borneo coast to Tanjong Api, thence direct. SAILING EOUTES. 65 SULU SEA FROM THE WESTWARD. Balabac Strait, between the islands of Balabac and Banguey, north of Borneo, is taken by vessels proceeding from Singapore to the southern part of the Sulu Sea. (See ch. XI.) South. Banguey Channel and Malawalle Strait, between Ban- guey Island and Borneo, are sometimes used by vessels navigating to the ports on the northeast coast of Borneo. They are somewhat in- tricate and demand careful navigation, being for the greater part bounded by dangers. The description of these channels will be found in the chapter on the northeast coast of Borneo. Balabac main channel is recommended in preference to either of these channels, being considered much safer. Sibutu Passage. — ^Vessels entering the Sulu Sea from Makassar Strait will find it convenient to use the channel between the Sibutu Islands, south of the easternmost point of Borneo and Tawi Tawi Island. This channel is 16 miles wide, quite safe, and easy of naviga- tion both by day and night; but the tidal streams set through the channel with great force. MANILA TO SAIGON. During the southwest monsoon full-powered steamships may take the direct route. Sailing vessels will find the voyage long and trying whichever route they adopt. The Spanish Derrotero recom- mends the following: On leaving Manila Bay take the Verde Island Passage, pass down the east side of Mindoro and the west coast of Panay, cross the Sulu Sea, passing out by Balabac Strait, and work down the northwest coast of Borneo to make westing; then cross the China Sea south of the Palawan Shoals. , SINGAPORE TO THE MOLUCCAS. Full-powered steamships would probably find it shorter to take the route south of Borneo in both monsoons, but sailing vessels should proceed north or south of Borneo according to the monsoon. Northeast monsoon. — From October to May the northeast mon- soon blows north of the equator, and the northwest monsoon south of it ; at this season the passage should be through Carimata Strait, east of Ontario Reef., On leaving the strait a vessel should steer to pass 10 miles south of Great Solombo Island, and thence south of Taka Eawataja, on which there is a fixed and flashing white light: then south of Mansfield Bank, and through Salayar Strait between Sarontang (Middle Island) and Pamatata (South Island). Once clear of Salayar Strait (latitude 5° 42' south, longitude 120° 28' east), Amboina and Banda are easily reached by passing south of Hegadis and Binongka Islands; but vessels bound for Pitt Passage should round the south point of Buton and skirt along the shore, 56 GENERAL EEMAEKS. avoiding Penguin Reef, until they reach the east point, passing to the west of Wangi Wangi Islands. They should then bear north for Wowoni Island and thence run for the south point of Sula Besi. The currents in this locality set to the south and are very strong. If drifted to leeward of the north point of Buru vessels should pass to the southward and eastward of that island through Manipa Strait. Southwest monsoon. — From May to September the southwest monsoon blow;s north of the equator and the southeast monsoon south of it. At this season a vessel should run south of the Anamba and Great Natuna Islands, and then between the Royal Charlotte and Louisa Shoals, taking care to avoid the dangerous shoals bordering the Borneo coast, and also the being set to leeward of Balambangan Island by the northerly current which prevails in the southwest mon- soon. Having made Balambangan Island, haul round its north point, and steer through Balabac Strait (see ch. XI), then through Sibutu Passage or one of the passages of the Sulu Archipelago, cross the Celebes Sea for the north point of Celebes Island, and then work south through Molucca Passage. ADEN TO SUNDA STRAIT. Full-power steam route. — During the southwest monsoon, pass north of Sokotra and on either side of Minikoi Island, thence direct, crossing the meridian of 100° east northward of latitude 5° south. It may be desirable to pass between Engano Island and the coast of Sumatra. In the northeast monsoon the route is between Sokotra and Cape Guardafui, through One-and-a-half-degree Channel, southward of Maldive Islands, and on either side of Engano Island. Distance, 3,750 miles. SUNDA STRAIT TO ADEN. The reverse of the outward route, or, between October and the beginning of May, steam northward along the Sumatra coast to about 5° north, then for the south point of Ceylon, Minikoi, and northward of Sokotra. . CARIMATA STRAIT OR RATA VIA TO NORTH COAST OF AUSTRAIJA. Steamships and sailing vessels, in the northwest monsoon, proceed north of Java, through Sapudi Strait, and into the Indian Ocean by Lombok or Alas Straits, thence south of Timor, into the Arafura Sea. Steamships only can make this passage in the southeast monsoon. Their route is through Sapudi Strait and northward of the islands in about 8° south, then by Wetta Passage and southward of Ser- watti Islands. This course is sometimes adopted by steam ships in the northwest monsoon. OHAPTEE II. COCOS ISLANDS AND CHRISTMAS ISLAND. Cocos or Keeling Islands (latitude 11° 49' to 12° 12' south, longitude 96° 49' to 96° 56' east) are situated about 600 miles in a southwesterly direction from Java Head, nearly in the direct route of vessels via the Cape of Good Hope. They are in two distinct divisions, lying north and south, having a channel between about 15 miles wide. The northern division or North Keeling consists of one island, whereas the southern or South Keeling consists of a group of about 20. These islands were discovered in 1608 by Capt. William Keeling in the service of the East India Co., but were little known previous to the visit of Capt. J. Clunies Ross, of the ship Borneo, who par- tially refitted his ship here in 1825. Capt. Ross returned to the islands in 1827 with some Scotch colonists, but found them occupied by Alexander Hare, who, with a large number of Malay followers, had arrived the same year. The two factions lived on bad terms, and many of Ross's colonists left the place, owing to its being already occupied, but eventually the Ross influence became the stronger, and Hare, deserted by his fol- lowers, left. The Ross family now own the islands, which were an- nexed to the Settlement of Singapore in 1903. South Keeling'. — The Southern division or South Keeling, num- bering about 20 islands, form a roughly broken circle nearly ap- proaching the horseshoe shape common to coral atolls. The two largest islands of this group, named Selima and Ross, are each about 6 miles in length, and are on the southeast and southwest sides of the group. New Selima, with the settlement of the Cocos and Bantam villages, is on the northeast side. Direction and Horsburgh Islands are the northern islets, between which is the channel to Port Refuge. Outside and nearly all round the group a natural barrier protects the lagoon, rendering it smooth inside. Seaward of this barrier, on which the sea breaks continually, there is a sudden slope into deep water. The greater portion of the lagoon, which is 9 miles in length by about 6 in width, is filled with patches of growing coral, having deep water between, but it is only navigable by boats. 57 58 OOCOS ISLANDS AND CHRISTMAS ISLAND. The land is evidently rising and at some distant time will form a circular island, surrounded by a craterlike edge. At present the land is nowhere more than 20 feet above the sea. The tops of the coconut trees, with which the whole of the islands are covered, may be seen from a distance of about 16 miles. Trade. — The exports are almost entirely confined to copra, which in 1902 amounted in value to about $63,000. The imports are provi- sions of all kinds, clothes, cutlery, guns, and most necessaries of life. Supplies. — Poultry is not plentiful on the island, but the lagoon abounds with fish ; turtle in season are caught ; sharks are numerous. A giant clam, said to attain a diameter of 6 feet, is found in the lagoon. Jungle fowl are found on most of the large islands. Eats and the white ant are very destructive. There are a few fruit trees, such as bananas, papaws, guavas, and figs. Pumpkins and other vegetables are to be obtained only in small o.uantities. Vessels in distress can be assisted or hove down, and receive small repairs. A vessel of 178 tons has been built on the island. Water. — ^Good fresh water can be obtained almost everywhere by ;digging to a depth of 8 or 9 feet. Water of fair quality can be put on board. Winds — Weather. — The southeast trade prevails for about 300 days in the year, varying between south and east, and being strongest about August. The months of June, July, and August are the coolest and healthiest, the fresh breezes being accompanied by frequent rains and occasional squalls. September, October, and November are dry months and the least healthy. Between November and February, the greater portion of the cyclone period, the trade wind is less steady, being interrupted by calms, storms, and variable northerly and westerly winds; and fine days are followed by threatening weather, thunder, and lightning,, with violent gusts of wind and heavy showers, causing much anxiety. The weather in March, April, and May is much the same as that of September to November, but not so dry. Cyclones. — The Cocos are subject to cyclones. In March-, 1861, one was experienced; a second, in 1863, devasted the islands; and another, in January, 1876, accompanied by a tidal wave, destroyed the store- houses, engine house, mills, and most of the dwellings, the corru- gated roofs of some of them being carried away by the wind for several miles. A slight earthquake accompanied it, causing a black sulphurous fluid to arise in the southern portion of the lagoon, and which, overspreading, destroyed nearly all the fish and corals. Cyclones were experienced February 4, 1894, March 4, 1902, and November 27, 1909. This latter cyclone lasted two hours, blowing from the southward with half an hour's calm, and then equally hard COCOS ISLANDS AND CHRISTMAS ISLAND. 59 from the northward. From this and the readings of the barometer, the lowest reading of which was 27.96, it is evident that the center of the storm must have passed directly over the islands. A great deal of damage was done, and it is calculated that some 200,000 trees were blown down. Cliraate. — The climate of the islands is. exceedingly healthy during the greater portion the year, more especially the months of May to September, when it is said to resemble the climate of southern Europe in the summer months. Previous to introduction of the disease beriberi, sickness was rarely known, but during the dry season (from September to November) cases of it occur, and diarrhea is prevalent, and in a less degree in the months of March to May. An epidemic of influenza in 1894 caused several deaths. Temperature. — June to September, when the trade wind is strongest, is naturally the coolest season ; the temperature then varies from 78° to 80°, occasionally reaching 82°, the night temperature being 73° to 74°. The hottest months are from December to March, when the trade wind is less regular; the, temperature then ranges from 83° to 85°, occasionally reaching 88° to 89°, the night temperature being 76° to 77°. The temperatures during the remaining months are between these. The hot, close nights usually experienced in the Tropics are few. During the strong trade wind the air is pleasantly dry, there being a difference of 6 to 8° between the wet and dry bulbs, and in Septem- ber as much as 13° has been observed; even in the opposite season there is usually a difference of 2 to 3°. The rainfall is moderate ; between April and September it occurs as passing showers which often take place at night; during the re- mainder of the year it is heavier and more frequent, affording a last- ing supply to the wells, which are from 6 to 10 feet deep. Population. — ^The population of the islands in 1911 was 749, of whom 39 were Europeans. Piers. — ^A pier, 600 feet in length and carrying a light steel tram- way, has been built westward of New Selima Island, just southward of the Bantam village ; a small pier, extending in a southerly direc- tion from the cable house on the southwest side of Direction Island, has a depth of 3 fathoms at its extremity. Light. — ^A fixed red light is shown from the sheers on Direction Island pier. Communication. — There is telegraphic communication with Batavia, Fremantle in Australia, and with Natal, Seychelles, and Zanzibar, via Rodriguez and Mauritius. Produce for the European 60 COCOS ISLANDS AND CHEISTMAS ISLAND. mariet is forwarded by a vessel belong to Mr. Koss. Exports for Batavia are sent every three months by the family schooner, which returns with supplies for the inhabitants. The islands are viStted occasionally by a British man-of-war. '"^ The Eastern Extension Telegraph Co. have leased about 40 acres of land on Direction Island, and have established their offices in the middle of the south side of that island. Eiadiotelegraph. — A radiotelegraphic station is installed on Direction Island, the call letters being M. K. I. It has three masts, one being 160 feet high, and is an excellent landmark for determin- ing the ship's position. It is open to the public at all times. Port Refuge, in the northern portion of the lagoon, consists of an outer and inner anchorage, the latter affording good shelter from the sea in about 7 to 9 fathoms. The outer anchorage has depths of from 6 to 8 fathoms. The inner anchorage is formed on its northern side by a spit with coral patches, partly awash at low water, extending southwest by west for 0.7 of a mile from the western end of Direction Island, and on the southern side by the numerous coral patches of the lagoon, and is a mile in length, with breadths of from 300 to pOO yards; it is entered by a very narrow channel, between the tongues of the spits, on the southeast side of the outer anchorage. A detached patch, with about 2| fathoms of water over it, lies im- mediately westward of the extreme of the northern spit, and several detached shoals, with about the same depth over them, lie on the southwest side of the outer anchorage. Buoys. — ^A red spherical buoy, with a cross top mark, is moored in 3 fathoms of water at the northern side of the entrance to the inner harbor. A red spherical buoy with a cross top mark is moored in 4 fathoms of water on the edge of the reef bounding the northern side of the inner anchorage. On entering both buoys should be left close on the port hand. Anchorage. — In 1904 the British steamer Diadem anchored in 7J fathoms water, with the west extreme of New Selima bearing 141°, and the north extreme of Direction Island 86°, but as the configura-, tion of the latter island on its northern and southwestern side is cconsiderably altered by the cyclone of 1902, it will probably be found that bearings of other objects, taken from this position, may not agree. There is also anchorage in 5 fathoms, with the north tangent of Direction Island bearing 81°, and Prison Island 131°. These anchorages are stated to be unsafe, except with steam ready, as at times heavy rollers come in without warning. The inner anchorage, in 7 to 9 fathoms, with good holding ground of coral and sand, is with the extremes of Direction Island bearing about 17° and 73°. The passage in should not be attempted unless NORTH KEELING CHRISTMAS ISLAND. 61 the reefs are plainly visible, and it is advisable to obtain the assist- ance of Mr. Ross, the proprietor, who has an intimate knowledge of all dangers. It is said that, OAving to the growth of weed, the deep water is less easily seen than formerly, and the tidal streams set across the entrance. A second anchor should always be in readiness. .Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at 5h. 30m., rise of tide 4^., feet, the flood setting into the harbor at the rate of 1^ knots. The current running past the islands to the northwestward, about 18 miles per day, is increased by the flood stream ; with the ebb the current is counteracted and there is little or none. North. Keeling, 15 miles northward of South Keeling group, is one low island, on a reef, about 1 mile in length, north and south, by half a mile in breadth. The island is a strip of low coral sur- rounding a lagoon and thickly covered with coconut trees. There is a small break on the eastern side, but the passage is not available for entering the lagoon. The only landing is on the west or lee side of the island, and is not always practicable on account of the surf. North Keeling is regarded as the sanatorium of the islands. Cases of beriberi are sent there and put under a course of mineral waters found on the island, in which great faith is placed. A spit is reported to extend about 1 mile northwestward from the island, and heavy rollers at times rise suddenly off the south point, making it dangerous to approach. Soundings extend for a distance of 5 miles south-southwest of the island, and also, it is said, for 3 miles to the eastward. Supplies. — ^A few jungle fowl are preserved; the island is also the resort of vast numbers of sea birds. Turtle are found in the lagoon, as well as quantities of various fish, including gray mullet, sharks, and dogfish. The seine cannot be used with any effect, but there is a fish which may be taken on a rod. A small store of tinned provisions and spirits is kept in a hut for the relief of ship- wrecked persons. Good water may be obtained from a well near the landing place. Anchorage. — In 1902 the British steamer Vestal anchored in 5 fathoms about 400 yards from the shore, with the west extreme of the island bearing 179°. The anchorage is not good, however, and a vessel must be ready to proceed to sea if the wind shifts to the westward of north, as rollers are very liable to set in. Christmas Island is near the track of sailing vessels approachmg Sunda Strait from the Cape of Good Hope between April and Sep- tember ; also to those bound southward from Sunda Strait during the period of the northwest monsoon. In 1900 the island was annexed to the settlement of Singapore, and authority is represented by a district officer. 62 COCOS ISLANDS AND CHKISTMAS ISLAND. The island, of limestone formation, densely wooded and steep-to, is 13 miles in length in a northeast and southwest direction; it at- tains a height near its western end of 1,170 feet and near the north- east point 935 feet, and in clear weather may be seen from a distance of 30 miles or more. It is quadrangular in shape, the north, south, and east sides being each about 9 miles in length and the west 4 miles. Seen from the northward or southward it is saddle-shaped, the middle being considerably lower than the east and west portions ; and from the sea the island rises to a central plateau in successive terraces and cliflPs. The sea face of the island is composed of perpendicular and almost continuous cliffs, 20 to 40 feet high, much underworn in places, rendering the island inaccessible except where the cliff has crumbled away and formed rough beaches, on which, when it is the lee side, landing may at times be effected. At Steep Point, on the east side, the cliff is 150 feet high; in other parts the coast is undermined by caves ending in vents or "blow holes," some distance from the sea, through which columns of spray are driven 60 or 70 feet into the air. Except in Flying Fish Cove, the depths at 200 yards or less offshore are about 100 fathoms, affording no anchorage. Depths of about 1,000 fathoms are found from 2 to 3 miles from the land. The bot- tom off the east side is of a volcanic nature. A settlement in Flying Fish Cove was first formed in 1888, when coconuts were planted along the waterside and coffee, cocoa, and pepper in clearings behind. These have all thriven and grow in pro- fusion. Fish is fairly plentiful. Water is obtained from wells and is stored in reservoirs at the settlement. Large deposits of phosphate of lime exist on the island. The ma- terial is conveyed by a cable tramway, about 1.5 miles long, to the shipping place in Flying Fish Cove. The full trucks descending raise to the summit those which are empty. In 1912, 156,948 tons of phosphate were exported. Winds and weather. — The southeast trade blows almost uninter- ruptedly from May to December, but in the earlier months of the year, when the northwest monsoon is blowing on the south coast of Sumatra, the southern fringe of the monsoon is nearly always marked by a cloud bank on the northern horizon. This occasionally overlaps the island, bringing heavy rains, and the wind will shift to the northward, sometimes blowing very hard. At this time a heavy sea generally beats with great violence upon the western coasts, and landing is often impracticable. From two years' observations (1901-3) east winds blew for 145 days — southeast, 44 ; northeast, 27 ; northwest, 21 ; and north, 16 days. Southerly and westerly winds were slight, and calms prevailed for 94 days. Hurricanes are unknoAvn and thunderstorms rare. FLYING ITSH COVE. 63 The climate is healthy and pleasant. Mean reading of the barom- eter is 29.91 inches, varying about one-tenth of an inch each way. Extreme temperatures are : Maximum, 94° F. in January ; minimum, 67° in September; mean maximum, 87° ; mean minimum, 75° ; mean daily range, 12°. Most of the rainfall occurs from December to May, and in July. At other times there are very heavy dews and occa- sional showers, the latter being most frequent on the uplands. The annual rainfall is 72 inches. Flying Fish Cove (latitude 10° 25' south, longitude 105° 43' east) . — The north side of Christmas Island, between Northwest and Rocky Points, forms a curve about 2 miles in depth, and in the eastern corner is Flying Fish Cove, a bight ^ mile across, between Smith and Loading Points, and J mile deep. A coral shelf, with white sand, fronts the beach of the cove, and extends off 200 yards into a depth of 5 fathoms; beyond this the water deepens very rapidly, there being over 70 fathoms 400 yards from the high-water line ; the bottom rocky and uneven. Under the direction of the pilot employed by the phosphate com- pany there is room during the fine season for three or four ships of considerable size to moor. When the trade is strong some swell is felt in the cove, but in light winds the water is smooth. In approaching from the north vessels should bring phosphate hill, which shows up white, on the port bow and stand in, keeping it on bow until piers are made out. Can approach to within 1^ miles of this hill. Signals should then be made to the authorities for pilot. Mooring buoys — Piers. — There are several mooring buoys for stern fasts, and in the western part of the cove smaller buoys for the use of lighters. There are also two loading piers, each 70 feet long, with ample water alongside. Ships lie 10 feet off, and cargo is rapidly delivered direct by shoots. In the fine season a vessel has loaded 5,300 tons of phosphate in 3^ days, with no night work. In 1912 work was begun on new pier to be constructed about 150 yards south of Loading Point pier. Anchorage. — It is usual to approach the bank very slowly, with an anchor lowered from 30 to 60 fathoms, according to size of ship. "When the anchor holds the vessel is backed or warped to the beach and secured to a buoy or to trees on the shore. Owing to the exposed conditions of the anchorage every precaution must be taken for the safety of the ship. If making more than the briefest stay a second anchor should be down and fires always banked, with steam ready at short notice. Ships should not attempt to make the anchorage at night, nor until the pilot is on board. A red flag is hoisted at the storage shed when the anchorage is dangerous. 64 COCOS ISLANDS AND CHRISTMAS ISLAND. Landing. — The landing in Flying Fish Cove is in the middle of the beach, through a break in the fringing reef. Also, on a similar beach, 2 miles eastward of Northwest Point, a narrow sandy channel about 80 feet in length, gives direct access to the shore. A new anchorage is reported to be found on the southeast side of the island, which it is hoped may prove of value in westerly winds. This anchorage is frequently used by small steam vessels during westerly winds; passengers are then landed here and walk across to the settlement. Settlement. — The settlement of the Christmas Island Phosphate Co., situated in Flying Fish Cove, consists of houses for the Europeans and quarters for the Chinese and Malay employees, also storehouses and hospitals. Over 1,200 coolies are employed. There is a Straits Settlements district officer resident in the island, and a doctor is em- ployed by the company. A magistrate's house and police station have been erected. A meteorological station was established here in 1901 by the Christmas Phosphate Co. A complete record of observa- tions made since that date up to the present time has been kept. Communications. — Christmas Island is in communication with Singapore by the phosphate company's steamers, which make trips about once every two weeks. Supplies.— Water for boiler use can be obtained, and is of a very good quality. There is a small repair shop for use of the company. Pigeons are numerous and easily taken, and gannets, frigates, and other sea birds are plentiful. Turtles deposit their eggs . on the beaches. Ships can not depend on being supplied with provisions, coal, or stores. Tinned provisions are expensive and fruit and vegetables not obtainable. Population. — In 1912 the population was 1,561, of which 22 were Europeans. There were 20 deaths during this year, only 3 of which were due to beriberi. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Flying Fish Cove at 7h. 20m.; springs rise 4J feet. The flood tide flows to the nortli- eastward, the ebb to the southwestward, the latter sometimes attain- ing a speed of 2 knots. Maria Augustina Bank lies about 220 miles 177° from Christ- mas Island. It is about 38 miles in length in a northeast and south- west direction and about 10 miles wide. CHAPTER III. SUNDA STRAIT. General description. — Sunda Strait, through which passes a large portion of the trade of China, also most of the trade of Batavia, Singapore, and other ports in the Java and China Seas, separates the large islands of Java and Sumatra. The vrestern entrance, between Java Head and Cape Kada, in Sumatra, is 58 miles 331° ; and from the western to the eastern limit, between St. Nicolas Point and the opposite coast of Sumatra, the distance is 17 miles, the gen- eral direction of traffic being about northeast and southwest. The narrowest part of the strait, 14 miles across, is abreast Fourth Point, being here divided into two channels, each about 4 miles wide, by Thwartway! Island. In the strait several islands form channels, by which it may be entered from the westward; but Princes and Great Channels, both on the south side, are those most commonly used. Great Channel is limited on the north side by the conspicuous Krakatoa Island, between which and the coast of Sumatra are three channels, formed by Sebesi and Sebuku Islands, all now very danger- ous and to be avoided. Winds. — Owing to the direction of the strait, which induces the winds to draw through to the northward, the westerly monsoon blows stronger and more steadily than the easterly. The easterly monsoon begins in April, but unsettled weather and winds, shifting occasionally to southwest and northwest, continue during May, June, and July. In August and September the monsoon is at its height and blows constantly between south-southeast and east-southeast, es- pecially at night under the coast of Java, when the land breeze comes off from the same quarter. In daytime during these months the sea breeze from the opposite direction will cause the wind to become unsteady on approaching the Java shore. Toward the end of October westerly winds begin to appear and at times blow from south-southwest to southwest, but the monsoon only becomes permanent in the latter half of November, with^ the wind between southwest and west-northwest. In December the gen- eral direction is west-southwest, in January west, and February \7est-northwest. In March the monsoon begins to abate and ."the direction shifts back to west-southwest, with occasional variable winds. Calms are most frequent in March. . ' ' ! 90045—15 5 65 66 SUNDA STBAIT. Showers fall at all seasons, but most abundantly in the westerly monsoon, being then often accompanied by thunderstorms. From May to November the sky is hazy, particularly during the early hours of the day. Considerable swell rolls into the strait in December, January, and February, and the sea is heaviest when the tide stream, combining with the prevailing southwesterly current, runs contrary to the wind. In the northern approach to the strait, more markedly on the Sumatra side, during the easterly monsoon, the sea breeze from northward in the Java Sea will in daytime draw the wind into the northeast. At such times, with an adverse tide, it would be advisa- ble for sailing vessels to anchor under the Java shore. Tides — Currents. — ^At Fourth Point it is high water, full and change, at 7h. 12m.; the highest tide is three days after full and change, and the rise 2| feet. At neaps the range is 8 inches, and occurs three days after first and third quarters. Through the narrow parts of Sunda Strait a constant current runs southwestward. This is strengthened during one half and counter- acted during the other half of the day by a strong diurnal tide stream. Early in July the southwest-going tidal stream attains its greatest velocity about 10 p. m. and the northeast-going about 10 a. m. The times will daily be sooner at the rate of two hours in each successive month, so that early in January the maximum strength to southwestward will be about 10 a. m. and northeastward about 10 p. m. These streams are strongest one day after that on which the moon's declination is greatest and feeblest when the moon is near the equator. When the current and tidal stream are in opposition there will necessarily appear varying and conflicting movements of the surface waters; generally the effect is to check the current or slightly turn it to the northeastward. Southward of Fourth Point the combined strteams seldom exceed a rate of 2 knots, but between Thwartway Island and Java, as well as near St. Nicolas Point, it may reach 2 to 4 knots. On the Zutphen Islands side of the channel also a strength of 4 knots will sometimes be found, running past the islands toward Varkenshoek, thence with less force in the wider part of the strait. Bank.— A bank, with 30 fathoms least water, extends 6 miles southward, from latitude 6° 14' south, longitude 104° 45' east. Soundings of 160 and 275 fathoms, respectively, were obtained 2.5 and 4 miles southward of the bank. Southern shore. — Java Head, the western extremity of Java, is a bluff promontory at the foot of high land, and is discernible at a considerable distance in clear weather. SANGIAN SIEA PKINCES ISLAND. 67 When making the head in hazy weather the appearance of the land eastward of Cape Sangian Sira, between it and Sodong Point, bears much resemblance to that of the west point of Java, with the adjacent hills on Princes Island; and the lowland in such circumstances not being distinguishable at a distance, the position of it has been mis- taken for the entrance to Princes Channel. Cape Sangian Sira. — From Java Head the coast trends 159° 5 miles to Cape Sangian Sira, high, with two large rocks close to. One mile southeast of the cape is a cluster of rocks, above water, and others line the shore, the sea breaking heavily upon them all. The soundings are very deep close to, and nearly up to Java Head there is no bottom with 100 fathoms. This coast should not be approached within 2 miles. Mount Payung, 1,575 feet high, rises over Cape Sangian Sira. Deli or Eelapa Island, 3 miles long by 1 broad, is charted 7 miles from the nearest shore of Java, and 21 miles 119° from the extreme of Cape Sangian Sira, but is reported to lie 1.5 miles farther southwest. It is low and swampy in the middle, covered with large trees (those along the beach being coconut) , and is surrounded by a reef, which from the west end projects 1.5 miles, and in other directions nearly 1 mile. Water. — On the northwest side there is a watering place in the southeast monsoon, and boats enter by a channel through the reef. Ancliorage. — Vessels may anchor on the north side in 13 to 15 fathoms, clay bottom, close to reefs, which partially dry at low water. The depths are from 30 to 44 fathoms 2 miles south of the island. Trowers or Tinjil Island, 3 miles long, half a mile broad, and thickly wooded, is much in appearance like Deli Island, from which it lies 81°, distant 11 miles. This island is also surrounded by a reef for 1 mile. On the north and west sides of this island there are from 13 to 19 fathoms water, and at the southeast and south sides, at some dis- tance, no bottom at 50 and 100 fathoms. These islands afford no shel- ter from southerly gales. A rock, on which vessels have struck, is about 1 mile north of the island, but the position is uncertain. Princes Island (Panaitan), separated from the west end of Java by Princes Channel, is the largest island in Sunda Strait. Its greatest length, between the west and northeast points, is 12 miles, and its breadth about 7 miles. It is of irregular form, projecting to a point on the northeast side, having a large bay on the south- west side, the horns of which form the west and south points of the island. The middle and eastern parts of the island are hUly, the highest peak. Mount Eakso, 1,048 feet above the level of the sea, 68 SUNDA STRAIT. feeing on the eastern shore; but in some parts, particularly at the west end, the land is level and low, fronting the sea. All parts of the island abound in wood. Princes Eeef s embrace the southwest point and extend off IJ miles, with several rocks above water. Carpenter Rocks project a mile from the south point ; most of the rocks are above water and the sea always breaks ; the water is deep close to. A fringing reef, inclosing the conspicuous White Rock, continues northeastward 4 miles to Point Semadang, with a detached breaking reef of coral 1 mile south- westward of the point. Parut Point, the northeast point of the island, is inclosed by a reef ; the other shores are generally steep to. Kasuaris Bay, on the southwest side of the island, is 4 miles deep, and has at its entrance soundings varying from 30 to 50 fathoms, de- creasing inside to a convenient depth for anchoring ; but, being open to all winds between west and south, it is not frequented, and can not be recommended. A rock is reported to lie about 1 miles to the southward of Tanjong Sabini, the western entrance point. Water is said to be procurable, in the northwest monsoon" only, from a stream in a small sandy bay under Mount Rakso, on the east side of Princes Island. The anchorage is in 35 fathoms, half a mile from shore, with the hill 327°. Princes Channel (Behouden Passage of the Dutch), in the nar- rowest part between Carpenter Rocks off the south end of Princes Island and Friar Rocks off First Point of Java, is 3 miles broad ; and the passage possesses the great advantage of affording anchorage to vessels when becalmed, which Great Channel does not. Light baf- fling winds and calms are very common about the entrances to Simda Strait, occurring even in the strength of the southeast monsoon, and vessels when not able to anchor are liable to be set back by adverse currents. The depths are much greater on the Princes Island than on the Java shore. Near Carpenter Rocks there is no bottom at 50 fathoms ; toward Mew Bay, on the Java shore, the depths decrease to 20 fath- oms and less. Directions. — In the southeast monsoon, when proceeding either way through Princess Channel, vessels should keep closer to the Java coast than to Princes Island. In the northwest monsoon it often happens that vessels bound out of the strait get quickly to the westward by proceeding through Princes Channel, while those using Great Channel are detained by heavy squalls and adverse currents. Indeed, instances have occurred in which vessels have worked through this passage in a remarkably short time during a westerly gale, by carrying a heavy press of sail GREAT CHANNEL MEW ISLAND. 69 and tacking between the squalls, when it Avas impossible for any vessel in Great Channel to beat against the current and heavy sea. In this monsoon, particularly when working out, it is advisable to keep nearer the island shore, to obtain the help of a current some- times running to the westward, and to avoid being set upon the rocks about Java Head by the heavy swell. Near the Java shore, when outside anchorage depths in a calm, vessels would be in considerable! danger. Great Channel lies between the north point of Princes Island and the south point of Krakatoa Island, which are 23 miles apart; although too deep for anchorage, it is much frequented, being the widest passage into the strait, and is considered to be clear of danger. Entering by Great Channel, vessels should keep nearer Princes Island, and when farther in keep closer to the Java side. Java coast — First Point (Tanjong Lajar). — The coast between Java Head and First Point is fronted by high rocks stretching out a considerable distance in some places. First Point, the south point of entrance into Princes Channel, has a conspicuous rock lying abreast of it, which rises abruptly out of the sea, and is steep-to. Close northward of First Point there is another rock above water, which, together with the former, are named Friar Rocks. Light. — From a white iron framework support, 66 feet high, erected on First Point, is exhibited a white flashing light. It is ele- vated 164 feet above high water, and is visible in clear weather from a distance of 18 miles. Mew Island (Kanti or Pujang), about 2 miles eastward from First Point, is 130 feet high, about 1^ miles north and south, and 1 mile east and west, hilly and wooded. Between it and First Point and close inshore is Mew Stone, a small rock above water. The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew Island, but safe to approach. The soundings decrease gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms. Between Mew Island and the main there is a narrow but safe channel, with depths of from 5 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. The channel is close over toward Mew Island, to avoid "Watson Bank, which lies near the Java shore. Sometimes the sea breaks upon this bank. Anchorage — Water. — To the eastward of Mew Island, on the Java shore, there is a good watering place in the southeast monsoon ; the water is excellent and falls in a cataract upon the beach. Large boats may approach this spot at high water through a narrow chan- nel in the reef and fill by a hose. A little to the northward of the watering place and about half a mile from the Java shore lies a coral reef about 200 yards long. Upon its shoalest part there is 1 fathom water, and all round from 70 SUNDA STEAIT. 5 to 6 fathoms. A vessel standing in for the watering place must steer between this reef and the island and anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms. In the southeast monsoon there is also a good anchorage a little farther out, in 16 to 19 fathoms water, sandy bottom, with the north point of Mew Island bearing about 265° and the east point 192°. Plenty of wood may be obtained from Mew Island or the main- land. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Mew Island, at 6h. ; springs rise 3 feet. Sinini Point (Senini) is a broad, low, projecting point, 5J miles northeastward of Mew Island, with depths of from 14 to 19 fathoms 600 yards off it. The coast between First and Second Points is low, wooded, and with here and there sandy beaches. Second Point, a low foreland, 12 miles 61° from First Point, may be approached without danger to the distance of 1 mile, and in from 26 to 20 fathoms water, the reefs projecting but a little way offshore. From Mew Island toward Second Point reefs project 100 yards from the shore, having from 5 to 6 fathoms water close to, which increases rapidly to 10 and 20 fathoms. With due care and atten- tion to the lead a vessel may approach the shore in order to anchor. Sometimes native craft may be met, having turtle, fowls, and coco- nuts for sale. Welcome Bay. — At a distance of 20 miles 61° from Second Point is Third Point, and between is a deep bight, named Welcome Bay, which in the southeast monsoon affords good shelter, but should be avoided in the northwest monsoon. There is, however, said to be good anchorage in the northwest monsoon, when the wind is not too northerly, southeastward of Second Point in 9 or 10 fathoms of water; but this anchorage should be approached with great caution, as the soundings decrease very suddenly to 2 fathoms on the edge of the reef which fronts the shore between Second and Tembing Points. The west shore of the bay trends from Second Point about south- southeast 11 miles, in the middle of which the beach forms a small bight, with 4 fathoms at its entrance, but only 1 fathom a short dis- tance within. The whole of this side of the bay is sldrted by reefs, some parts being 1 mile distant from the shore. A large portion of the bay inside Panter and Eocky Eidge Eeefs has not been examined, but it is supposed to be dangerous. Andelan (Handulum) and Little Andelan are two islets lying contiguous to the southwest shore of the bay. about 7 miles from Second Point. Two sand banks, each surrounded by a sunken reef, lie from half to three-quarters of a mile off the eastern island, and a rock above wdter lies about three-quarters of a mile to the northeastward of the same island. Between these banks and Andelan the depths are from 4 to 6 BASTEBK SHORE PEPPER BAY. 71 fathoms, mud; and between that island and the shore from | to If fathoms. The distance across from the southern shore of Welcome Bay to the south coast of Java is about 1 mile, and the sound of the surf may be distinctly heard across the isthmus. The eastern shore of the bay is 24 miles in length, from the head to Third Point, in a direction about north-northeast. From the head to Badui (Badul) Islet, a distance of 7 miles, the bay appears to be shallow, and there are many coral rocks southward of the islet, mostly dry at low water, with 7 to 9 fathoms between them. Northward of Badui the coast is bolder, with 15 to 24 fathoms 2 miles off; and there are several islets and dangers.- A large coral rock above water, usually covered with a heavy surf, lies 276°, about IJ miles from Badui Islet; and near it appear to be several reefs. Between the rock and the island the depths are from 6 to 12 fathoms. Five miles northeastward of Badui Islet is Palagan Point with some islands off; the southernmost is named Mangir, and the others Uwar, Umang, and Sumur. These islands, as well as Palagan Point, are surrounded by reefs 200 yards in breadth, but 1 mile outside there is a depth of 15 fathoms, mud. Sumur Island is connected to Palagan Point by a reef with not more than 2 feet of water on it. Mount Honjeg, a double-topped summit, 2,046 feet high, is abreast of Badui Islet 2^ miles inland. Rocky Ridge, about 100 yards in length, mostly above water, and always covered by breakers, lies about halfway between the western shore of the bay and Panther Reefs, with Second Point bearing 299°, distant 4 miles. The depths around are 10 and 12 fathoms. Painter Reefs are the outermost of the known dangers which encumber Welcome Bay, and they lie nearly midway between Second Point and Palagan Point. From their north extremity, in 11 fathoms, Second Point bears 279°, distant 6 miles. They consist of four different patches, the whole being from half to three-quarters of a mile in extent. The shoalest patch has a depth of about 1 fathom, rock, but between and close around them are 9 and 10 fathoms, mud. Third Point, like Second Point, is very low, although sharper, and fronted by rocks to the distance of 400 yards, from which the depths increase to 10 and 18 fathoms. Batu Hideung, a hill 4 miles southward of Third Point, is 900 feet high, and possibly easily recognized. Pepper Bay. — PapoUe Island is nearly 10 miles northeastward from Third Point, and between is Pepper Bay. Its shores are fronted by reefs which near the points project about half a mile, in- 72 SUNDA SXEAIT. creasing their distance from the shore toward the head of the bay, where they extend 1^ miles. The depths in the bay generally decrease uniformly from 14 to 4 fathoms. The latter depth will be found 2 miles offshore. Coral Bank, nearly 2 miles east from Third Point, is about 600 yards in length. The greater part is above water. Between this bank and Third Point there is a channel 4 to 9 fathoms deep. Lawungan Islet, at the head of Pepper Bay, 3^ miles 111° from Third Point, is about three-quarters of a mile long, a quarter of a mile broad, and is surrounded by a reef which projects 300 yards from the north side of the islet. Three-quarters of a mile northwestward and westward of Lawun- gan Islet are two reefs, partly dry at low water, and usually breaking. Southward and midchannel between Lawungan Islet and the shore is a reef with 3 feet water, between which and the island there is a narrow channel, with 3 and 4 fathoms; between the reef and the shore is foul ground. Anchorage. — ^In the eastern monsoon there is safe anchorage northeast of Lawungan Islet, in 6 or 8 fathoms, soft bottom. Panjang Reef, 1^ miles southwest of PapoUe Island, is 1 mile long, half a mile in breadth, and has a least depth of 3 feet. This ledge, being steep to, is dangerous, as the sea does not often break upon it, but it may be distinguished by the light color of the water and its brown patches. PapoUe Island, small, round, and about half a mile in diameter, is within 1 mile of the shore and connected by a reef ; there is, how- ever, a small channel of 1^ fathoms through this reef available for boats. Keboka, about half a mile in extent, 2 miles north of PapoUe Island and two-thirds of a mile offshore near Charingin, is of coral, partly above water, and generally breaks. It is steep-to, having 6 fathoms close outside. Between this reef and a rock near the shore there is a depth of 3 fathoms. Anchorage. — A convenient anchorage in 7 fathoms, clay, will be found northward of Keboka, 1^ miles offshore, with PapoUe bear- ing 170°. The coast from Charingin trends nearly north, and may be approached to a depth of 12 to 15 fathoms. The coast is low, though occasionally interrupted by hills and rocky points. Many streams run into the sea, and there are scattered villages. Landing is easy when the surf is not too high. There is anchorage all over the off- lying bank. Catherine Bock, rather more than 4 miles southward of Fourth Point and half a mile offshore, is about 500 yards in extent, in the direction of the coast, with two rocky heads above water near FOUETH POINT OLD ANJEB. 73 the center, and which ai"e visible about 3 miles. There is a small rock ^vith less than 6 feet 600 yards north-northwest of the rock, with 6 fathoms between. The coast should not be approached within 1 miles or in less depth than 12 fathoms. Between Catherine Rock and tlie shore there is said to be 6 fathoms. Telegraph cable. — ^The shore end of the submarine telegraph cable from Kalianda, in Sumatra, is landed at a cable house south- ward of Catherine Eock and 5 miles from Fourth Point. Vessels are forbidden to anchor near. Fourth Point, distant nearly 27 miles northeastward from Third Point, is low and overgrown with brushwood, but easily discerned by the lighthouse. A reef fringes the shore to the distance of 200 to 400 yards. Light. — On Fourth Point stands a white iron lighthouse, 190 feet high, wliich exhibits, at an elevation of 180 feet above high water, a flashing white light, visible in clear weather from a distance of 20 miles. Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, at Fourth Point, at 7h. 12m. ; springs rise 2f feet, neaps 8 inches. Anjer Peak, 1,935 feet in height, is about 4 miles within Fourth Point. Mount Godeh, 2 miles southward of Anjer Pealc, is 2,427 feet high. Anjer — Signals. — ^The settlement at Fourth Point (formerly known as Bojong) has been named Anjer, or Anjer Kidul, and the post office. Lloyd's signal and semaphore stations are established here. Vessels will be signaled free of charge to Batavia. There is a railway to Batavia. Charts and sailing directions for the Xetherlands Indies may be procured from the harbor master. Anchorage off Fourth Point, is exposed ; the holding ground, of coral thinly overlaid with sand and mud, is bad and only available with easterly winds : 1 mile from shore the depth is 30 fathoms. Water. — ^The mouth of the Kali Chi Koneng can be entered by boats and small vessels when the surf allows. Fresh water may be obtained within. Pilots for the strait and coast to Batavia are stationed at Fourth Point and at Old Anjer. Old Anjer, situated 2i miles northeastward of Fourth Point, is a thriving village on the site of the town destroyed in ISSo. The inhabitants live by fishing and by attending to the needs of passing ships. Kali Anjer, close westwai'd of the village, is 40 yards in breadth, with a depth of 6 to 9 feet at low water, and affords good landing for boats in the easterly monsoon, but Kali Paku, half a mile to the 74 SUN DA STRAIT. northward, which has a least depth of 2 to 3^ fathoms, is to be pre- ferred. The Paku is about 80 yards wide, and has some rocks near the entrance, which may be avoided by keeping close over to the reef extending from the south point. Anchorage. — There is anchorage in Anjer road in 14 fathoms fair holding ground, with Fourth Point bearing 223° and the sum- mit of Thwartway 319°, half a mile from the shore reef. From thence the depth - decreases uniformly to 8 fathoms about 200 yards from the reef which fringes the shore. This is but an indif- ferent roadstead in the northwest monsoon, and a high surf then makes landing dangerous. Sailing vessels have frequently found themselves in dangerous proximity to this reef from anchoring in too small a depth of water and with no room to veer in the event of sudden and violent squalls, which are frequent in this season. During the easterly monsoon small craft will find anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms, within the entrance of the river, avoiding patches of 2 fathoms (ruins of the old town). Supplies. — In the southeast monsoon vessels, both outward and inward bound, often call at Anjer for supplies. Buffaloes, poultry, vegetables, fruit, hogs, sheep, turtle, and water are to be procured. Native craft from Anjer with supplies may be met with in Sunda Strait and as far northward as the Brothers. Thwartway Island, or Pulo Sangian, 606 feet high, in the middle of the narrowest part of Sunda Strait, is easily recognized by its irregular shape. From northeastward or southwestward the island appears as five islets, the earthquake wave having swept through it, destroying all the trees in the low ground and valleys, but there is no change in the contour of the island or in the depths around. It is 2J miles long in a north and south direction, and steep- to on the northern and eastern sides beyond 300 yards distance. Off the southern extremity a reef projects about 600 yards, on which a rock above water is visible; southward of the reef are 13 fathoms. From the southwest point of the island a bank of sand, with depths of from 17 to 20 fathoms, extends in a southwesterly direction for a distance of 6 miles. Anchorage. — The west side of the island forms a bay, in which there is good temporary anchorage in 13 fathoms, sand, with the ex- tremes of the island 353° and 119°. The southwesterly set in Sunda Strait causes strong eddies in this bay. Brabands Island, 154 feet high, is a small round island, about 200 yards in diameter, 5 miles 111° from the south end of Thwart- way Island. A shoal of 2 fathoms lies 400 yards off the Java shore, with Bra- bands Island bearing 305°, distant 1 mile. BEOWEES SAND. 75 Browers (Bruwers) Sand.— Two patches of 4| and 5 fathoms, near the end of a tongue of hard sand extending 3 miles 215° from Merak Island, and 1^ miles off the Java shore. Kerungo Eock, which dries at low water, is about 400 yards offshore, abreast Browers Sand. The depths close to the west side of Browers Sand are from 10 to 15 fathoms, increasing to 19 and 20 fathoms at the distance of 1 mile. When standing inshore, Brabands Island should be kept inside of Fourth Point. Anchorage.— Between the shallow parts and Merak Island there is convenient anchorage for vessels working through Sunda Strait. Merak Island, 5J miles northeast from Brabands Island, is 216 feet high, nearly round, and about half a mile in diameter. Within it is New Anjer Eoad. Little Merak Island (Merak kechil) is near the shore, about half a mile southeastward of Merak Island. A large tree stands near the north point. Two small 3-fathom patches lie south-southeast- ward of the island at distances of 500 and 700 yards. New Anjer B/Oad, nearly half a mile in extent, is between Merak Islands and the coast of Java. New Anjer. — A few native huts alone remain of New Anjer, the settlement having been removed to Fourth Point. Tarrembu Bank, nearly 400 yards in extent, lies in the south entrance to the road, midway between Merak Islands. On its north- western part is a patch nearly 200 yards in extent, with Tarrembu Rock, which dries. A patch 3^ fathoms lies 100 yards northward of this rock, and a bank of 4 to 4| fathoms is 300 yards north-north- eastward of the rock, and a 5 J-f athom patch 200 yards further north- ward. Beacons and buoys. — A white beacon, surmounted by a ball, . marks the western side of Tarrembu Reef, and a beacon, sur- mounted by a black cone, the east point of the coast reef 200 yards, southward of the east point of Merak Island. A white conical buoy is moored 200 yards northward of Tarrembu Rock, westward of a 2f-f athom patch, and a black can buoy about 150 yards eastward of. Tarrembu Rock, eastward of 3-fathom shoals. Anchorage. — The anchorage with southwest winds is northward of Tarrembu Bank and other patches, in from 8 to 10 fathoms, with the northern hill of Merak bearing 270°. It is not safe for large vessels in the northwest monsoon, as a heavy swell sometimes sets in, but small vessels will always find shelter under Merak Island. Directions. — The channel north of Merak is the one recommended. It is more than 200 yards in breadth, and has depths of 7 to 10 fathoms. In entering, keep close along the side of Merak Island ; the 76 SUNDA STKAIT. small reef fringing it shows discolored water. Steam vessels may enter by the south channel, on either side of Tarrembu Bank, as there are depths of from 5 to 8 fathoms water in both, but it is not practi- cable for sailing vessels as there is always a strong adverse current. Java Reef. — A small patch of coral, with a depth of 4J fathoms, And steep-to nearly all round, lies with Merak Island bearing about 178°, distant IJ miles. When the current is running from 1 to 2 miles an hour the bank is marked by ripples, and sometimes by dis- colored water. St. KTicolas Point. — The coast from Merak Island trends in a northeasterly direction about 5 miles to -St. Nicolas Point, 45 feet high, covered with trees, and the perpendicular extreme of the bold promontory forming the northwest end of Java, which rises to Mount Gedeh, 1,968 feet high. Dangers extend a third of a mile off the point with 11 fathoms close-to. About midway between Merak Island and St. Nicholas Point is the small islet of Tamposo, near the edge of the shore reef, extending off about one-third of a mile; close-to there are depths from 10 to 15 fathoms. Between Tamposo and the shore there is shelter for boats and small vessels in 2 to 5 fathoms. This coast should not be ap- proached nearer than in 18 fathoms, unless seeking anchorage, when wind and current are unfavorable. This may be found off the small bays in 8 to 10 fathoms. Toppers (Button) Island, about 200 yards in diameter, is 230 feet high, steep, and covered with trees. It lies well out in the fair- way of Sunda Strait, 5 miles northeast of Thwartway Island, and has 15 fathoms close off the south end and 30 to 40 fathoms at a short distance all around. Channels. — Between Thwartway and Zutphen Islands the channel is 4 miles wide, with two dangers, viz: Stroom Rocks off Thwart- way and Winsor Eock off Toppers Island. Owing to the great depth of water (40 to 60 fathoms) it is not so convenient as the channel between Thwartway and Java, where, the depths being only 20 to 30 fathoms, greater facility is afforded for anchoring in calms. The channel between Thwartway and Sumatra is much frequented in the westerly monsoon by vessels bound to the westward, being shorter, although more contracted than the other channel between Thwartway and Java. The former may be adopted with a steady wind, for in such case, with the westerly current, a vessel will get speedily through, but in light, baffling winds she is liable to be drifted about by strong tides or currents near Stroom Eccks, where the water is too deep for anchorage. Stroom Kocks, 327°, nearly 2 miles distant from the west point of Thwartway, are a group of rocks with some of their heads just WINSOE BOCK — ^FLAT CAPE. 77 above high water. They are steep-to and at times the breakers over them may be seen at a considerable distance. The currents which meet here from the north and east are very rapid, and, with the opposite wind, cause such strong eddies as to make, it almost appear as if Stroom Kocks were connected with Thwartway. Winsor Kock, marked by tide rips, has a least depth of 2i fathoms, with other rocks close to, beyond which the depths increase suddenly to 20 and 30 fathoms in all directions. From the rock the summit of Toppers Island bears 116°, distant IJ miles. Directions. — ^With a steady and commanding breeze a vessel from about 2 miles off Third Point may steer to pass the same distance off Fourth Point, westward of Brabands Island, taking care not to steer too close to Browers Sand in passing, observing that Fourth Point open westward of Brabands Island leads westward of it. The winds, however, frequently become light and variable, and a sailing vessel may be compelled to anchor, in which case it is better to keep well over to the Java shore, avoiding the dangers in Pepper Bay, which should not be approached under a depth of 14 fathoms. When the current is running to the westward in the middle of Sunda Strait, an eddy will be experienced near the land, besides which a vessel may anchor anywhere along the shore, except near Fourth Point, where the bottom is in places foul and rocky. When working to the northeast, therefore, it is advisable not to keep too far in the ofiing, in order to make the eddy available, and to retain favorable anchoring ground. When northward of Toppers Island, if bound to Banka Strait, sailing vessels usually steer about 12° for Two Brothers; if boimd for Batavia, to pass St. Nicholas Point at the distance of 2 miles, and shape course about 99° midway between Babi Island and Pon- tang Point and to the entrance of Inner or Dutch Channel, the one most frequented by vessels entering Batavia Road from the westward. Sunda Strait — ^Northern shore. — The south coast of Sumatra, which forms the north shore of Sundra Strait, between Flat Cape on the west and Varkenshuk on the east, a distance of 70 miles, is in- dented by two large bays, named Semangka, or Keyser, and Lam- pong. The shores of both are fronted by numerous islands and rocks. Flat Cape (Vlakke hoek) is the northwest boundary of Sunda Strait, the peninsula of which it is the western extremity, separates Semangka Bay, on the east side, from Belimbing Bay on the west side. The southern coast is low and woody; the east low extreme, Cape Hada, is distant 10 miles from Flat Cape. Approaching Flat Cape in thick weather, when the land can not be seen, the soundings will be a good guide ; but it is not advisable to get into less than 20 fathoms. 78 . SUNDA STKAIT. A reef fringes the shore of Flat Cape and thence to Cape Rada, but at 1 mile distant there are depths of 7 to 10 fathoms. Light. — From a white tower 215 feet high, near the extreme of Flat Cape, is exhibited, 205 feet above high water, a group flashing white light. The light is visible 21 miles. (For the arc of visibility, see Light list and chart.) Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Flat Cape at 6h. 10m. ; springs rise 2 feet. Seleman Keck, on which the sea breaks, has a less depth than 3 fathoms, and lies with Seleman Point, bearing 291°, distant If miles. Little Fortune Island (Batu Kechil) is 281° 6^ miles from Flat Cape. It is low, woody, about 1 mile in diameter, and sur- rounded by a reef; breakers extend a considerable distance off the southeast point. Breakers reported. — In 1910 breakers were reported at a distance of about 1^ miles, 167°, from the southeast extreme of Little Fortune Island. In the same year breakers were reported at a distance of about 1 mile, 191° from Flat Cape Lighthouse. Anchorage. — ^There is anchorage off the east side of the island in 9 or 10 fathoms. Sand bank. — ^At about 3 miles southwestward of Flat Cape there is a narrow bank of reddish sand, 2 miles in length, northwest and southeast, and about 1 mile in breadth, with depths of 8 and 9 fathoms. The depths seaward increase rapidly to 30 and 50 fathoms, and between the bank and the shore are 12 and 14 fathoms. Four miles west of Flat Cape is a doubtful bank of 5 fathoms. Semangka, or Keyser Bay, on the eastern side of Bengkulen Peninsula, extends in a northwesterly direction nearly 30 miles, and is about 20 miles wide at its entrance. The western shore of the bay affords no shelter from southeasterly winds, and has 20 to 30 fathoms water within half a mile of it. The eastern side, north- westward of Kalumbayan Harbor, is not so steep, and there is good anchorage about 2 miles off, in 20 or 30 fathoms; but it is also ex- posed to southeasterly winds. Aspect. — On the western side of the bay the Sawah Mountains extend the whole way parallel with the shore at a distance of about 3 miles, and terminates in Cape Eada. On the eastern side Keizerspiek or Mount Tangkamus is over the head, and rises to 7,478 feet; Mount Pesawaran, 5,451 feet; and Mount Tangka, 3,811 feet, 4 miles north- eastward of Kalumbayan Harbor. Tamping Bay, 3 miles northward of Cape Rada, is an open bight, but has good anchorage ground in depths from 10 to 15 fathoms, 1 mile offshore, but exposed to southeasterly winds. Water, with some difficulty, may be obtained from the shallow rivulets that discharge into the bay. BOKKE KALUMBAYAX. 79 Borne village lies in the northwest part of Semangka Bay at the mouth of Semangka River, the water of which is good, but boats will find it difficult to enter. The land is low and marshy near the sea. Near Botong Point, the southern extremity of the bay near Borne, there is a rocky ledge wliich projects more than 1 mile, with 10 fathoms near it. Anchorage.— The best anchorage is east from the mouth of the rivulet 1 mile distant from the shore. Vessels lie here usually with- out danger from southeasterly winds, which seldom throw a very high swell so far up the bay. Tabuan Island, nearly in the middle of the entrance of Semangka Bay, is high and steep-to all around beyond a short distance except its. northwest extreme, which is foul to about 600 yards, the only anchorage being on the northeast side in 25 to 30 fathoms sand and very near the shore. The anchorage is a very indifferent one in the westerly monsoon. Water.^ — There is fresh water on the island, but the high surf renders landing difficult. Coast. — From' Borne the coast, low and wooded with high trees, turns to the northeastward for 6^ miles to Kota Agung (new) , which is the chief village of the Semangka district ; a reef fringes this part of the coast. Kota Agung (old) lies 2 miles eastward of Kota Agung (new), and the coast here is fringed by a reef which always breaks. Breakers reported. — In 1911 breakers were reported in latitude 5° 31' south, longitude 104° 35' east. Anchorages.— Off the village of Kota Agung (new) anchorage may be obtained in 10 fathoms water, over, mud, with the village bearing 18°, 8 cables from the shore. The anchorage off Kota Agung (old) is in 21 fathoms water, over mud, with that village bearing 18°, 9 cables from the shore. Coast. — The whole of the east coast, from this point to Kalum- bayan Harbor, 27 miles southeastward, is low and backed by high land, and generally fringed by a small coral reef. On this coast are the villages of Padang Eatu, Puti, Pertibi, Paku, and Pekon Dalam. Kalumbayan Harbor, on the eastern side of Semangka Bay, and about east from the north point of Tabuan Island, is small, but safe, and affords good shelter from all winds, with sufficient depths of water for large vessels ; there are 13 fathoms in the center and 5 to 8 fathoms 200 yards from shore. It may be easily recognized by the high and rocky lyu (Hiu) Island, a mile to the southward, which can be seen about 15 miles. Half a mile northwestward of lyu Island lies Kelapa Island ; there is a channel with 25 fathoms water between these islands. 80 SUNDA STEAIT. Supplies. — ^Water may be obtained from a small rivulet in the northeastern part of the bay, whence there is a road leading to the village, which is situated in a valley, about three-quarters of a mile from the landing place, and where probably supplies may be obtained. Directions. — In the northwest monsoon sailing vessels should enter the harbor by the western passage, between Kelapa Island and Napal Point, and when the latter bears about 270° anchor near the eastern beach in 10 fathoms, mud, or anywhere in the harbor, there being no hidden dangers. In the southeast monsoon steer in between lyu and Kelapa Islands. "With a commanding breeze a vessel may pass eastward of lyu, be- tween it and Vogel or Bird Island (Batu Kabu), or between the latter island and the main, but this channel is narrow. Eover Rocks, off South Point (Baru Point) , are easily avoided, as most of them are above water ; they must be left to the eastward. (Plan of Kiluang Bay on H. O. Chart 3110.) Kiluang Harbor, 4 miles southeastward of Kalumbayan, also affords safe anchorage. It may be known by Tongkali Island, which is visible 12 miles, and lies off the southeast point of the harbor, being separated from the main by a passage for small vessels, with 16 fathoms. Kiluang Island, small and not very high, is within Tongkali Island, with some rocks at its northern and southern extremities, a large reef to the eastward and a smaller one on its western side. Northward of Kiluang Island the depths are 4 and 5 fathoms, and a high swell sometimes breaks there. Eastward of this there is ap- parently anchorage in 11 or 12 fathoms, but great caution is neces- sary in making use of this inner portion, which is little known. The anchorage under Kiluang is preferable. Water. — Good water may be obtained from the brook in the north- east part of the harbor. Directions. — Entering the harbor, approach Tongkali till it bears 90°, distant 2 or 3 cables, when three groups of black rocks will be seen, the southwesternmost of which bears 339° from Tongknli. Steer between the island and rocks, southward of Kiluang Island, in from 30 to 20 fathoms, for the eastern side of the harbor, which is very high, and when the center of Kiluang Island bears 270° good anchorage may be taken in 13 fathoms sheltered from all winds. Sailing vessels may rvin out with the land wind which blows here from the northward, but it is recommended to have a boat in at- tendance to tow, lest they should get becalmed under the high land. Although the bay outside Kiluange Harbor is spacious, it is advisable to pass close westward of Tongkali. Coast. — From Kiluang Harbor the coast takes an easterly direc- tion for 8 miles to Tikus Point, the western entrance of Lampong BATU BELANGTUNG MANGOMAN ISLAND. 81 Bay. Tuju Islets, half a mile from shore, are 2 miles eastward of Tongkali Island, and there are other rocks nearer the coast. Batu Belangtung', a rock whereon the sea generally breaks, is 1 mile southwest of the south point of Peper Bay, and a quarter of a mile from shore. It is connected by an uneven ridge with the rocky islet northward. Southward of the rock the water is deep. Peper Bay, westward of Point Tikus, is about three quarters of a mile across. There is a large three-pointed rock in the middle, with a small island westward. Eastward of the rock there is anchorage in 18 fathoms near the shore. Lagundi Islands, in the southwest part of the entrance to Lam- pong Bay, and between 2 and 10 miles eastward of Point Tilnis, con- sist of seven islands, viz, Lagundi, Rond, Saka, Sunchal, Mangoman, Sasara, and Tims. All are wooded and uninhabited. Along the southern shore there are 40 to 50 .fathoms close to, and near Tims Island 27 fathoms. In the western monsoon the sea breaks with great violence on the south side of the islands; on the north side there is landing everywhere, and the depths near the land are 15 to 20 fathoms, clay. Lagundi, the largest of the group, is 4^ miles long by 2 miles wide, 1,125 feet high, and, except on the south side, is surrounded by a narrow reef. Southward of the west point are two high round rocks, overgrown with verdure, with a passage between for small vessels; also on the southeast side of the island there is a similar rocky islet. Nangga Bay, on the north side of Lagundi Island, is small but safe, with 9 to 15 fathoms, clay bottom. In the middle of the entrance is the little island of Patapan, sur- rounded by a coral reef which extends northeastward nearly 300 yards, behind which a small vessel may find shelter from wind and sea. Mangoman Island is half a mile north of and is higher and larger than Patapan. On the northeast side is a reef, with stones always dry, and there is shallow water off the southwest point. The depths around are 10 to 22 fathoms. Dangers. — ^A reef, with 1 fathom of water over it, lies 800 yards 349° from Patapan Island, and shows discolored water. Nearly 200 yards north of this is a depth of 2^ fathoms and, 400 yards south, 3J fathoms, with deep water close to them. Directions. — ^The safest passage into the harhor is northward and eastward of Mangoman Island, between the coast reefs on either side, with a depth of 16 fathoms. Water. — In the southern part of the harbor a small rivulet of good water runs through a grassy flat. 90045—15 6 82 SUNDA STEAIT. Bond, Saka, and Sunchal Islands. — Eond Island, eastward of ' Lagundi, is 3 miles long in a northwest direction and 1 mile broad. Saka (Lagundi Toca), nearly half a mile southwest of Rond, is high and steep. Southeastward of the island three-quarters of a mile is a rock covered at high water, but always shown by breakers. Sun- • chal, off the southeast point of Eond, is low on the north side and, except along the south shore, is surrounded by a reef. Channels. — In the narrow part of the channel between Lagundi and Eond the depths are 9 to 14 fathoms, hard bottom. Midway is a high round rock named Tua, which is joined to the Lagundi shore. None of the channels between these islands are desirable, the bottom is foul, and the streams rapid. Tims Island, 2^ miles east of Sunchal, is small and low, with patches of vegetation, and is composed of red rock. A reef, with heavy breakers, surrounds the island, but there are 25 to 30 fathoms between it and Sunchal. Lagundi Strait, between Point Tikus and Lagundi Islands, is 2 miles wide, and recommended to ships working out of Lampong Bay in the westerly monsoon. In the middle of the strait is the high Island of Sasara, with 25 to 30 fathoms around; on the northeast side is a small reef ; and off the southwest end lie some high rocks. The passages on either side of Sasara are equally good, and, with con- trary winds or current, there is anchorage on the east side of the island in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand. Vessels drifting through the strait in a calm will be carried past the island by the offset of the current. Medusa Reef, 100 yards in diameter, with 2 fathoms water and 13 fathoms around, lies a mile northward of Mangoman Island. The water over is not discolored. When the passage between Lagundi and Eond Island is open, a vessel will be northeastward of the reef ; and the highest point of Lagundi in line with the west point of the harbor leads well southwestward. Lampong Bay, formed between Point Tikus on the west and Point Kelapa on the east, is about 23 miles wide, and extends nearly the same distance in a northerly direction. Several islands lie along the western shore of the bay, forming sheltered anchorages between them and the main. In the entrance will be found about 20 fathoms, clay bottom, and within from 10 to 15 fathoms, mud. The eastern side of the bay, between Telok Betung and Chondong Islands, is high, free from danger, and has 10 to 14 fathoms, close-to. From Chondong Islands to Point Kelapa the coast, at 400 or 600 yards distance, is fronted by a line of rocks, on which the surf breaks heavily with westerly winds, and renders landing difficult. Fedada Bay, the first bight to the northward of Point Tikus, is 1^ miles wide at entrance and 3^ miles deep. PUTUS ISLAND PUNDU BA\. 83 When running into this bay in the direction of Mount Tangka the depths will be 20 to 15 fathoms, clay and mud, and the three small islands of Balak, Olo, and Lunik will be seen. Balak is the easternmost and highest. Dangers. — ^The bay is fringed by a small coral reef, and two rocks lie northwestward of the sovith point. About half a mile to the northward of Balak Island are two de- tached reefs, which usually break.. In the northern part of the bay a large reef lies at a distance of about three-quarters of a mile, 260" from its northern entrance point, with a small one, 293° about the same distance from it and near the coast. Ancliorage. — Steering in between these two reefs on each side of the bay, anchorage may be obtained in 15 fathoms of water near Pedada village, with the west point of Balak Island bearing 181°. Pedada village is to the westward of Lunik Island, and stands on a clear fresh-water streain. Ta,njong Putus Island lies just off Pedada Point at the northern entrance to the bay. It is about 1 mile in length and one-half mile wide. Just off the eastern end is Lalangga Balak Island, between which and Tanjong Putus are several groups of rocks above water. Small vessels may pass between them. Northeastward of Lalangga Balak are three patches of rock with 16 fathoms, clay bottom, be- tween them and Selenga (Lalangga Lunik) Island. To avoid them keep Selenga Island bearing to the westward of 0° true. This small island is about 53 feet high and has a reef extending about 400 yards from its northeast point. Pundu Bay, 4 miles northward of Pedada Bay, is 2 miles wide and 3 miles deep, with 10 to 7 fathoms water. Across the entrance lies Puhawang, the largest island in Lampong Bay, with a peak on its northern side and surrounded by a coral reef, projecting 400 to 800 yards; eastward of it is Little Puhawang, which is inclosed by Puhawang Reef. Shoals in the bay and approaches. — A large reef lies 47° 2 miles from Little Puhawang Island, with 12 to 17 fathoms around, and which may be passed on either side. A reef of black rocks lies 1,000 yards 170° from the southeast point of Kalagian Island. Three reefs, nearly in line, extending 220° from Badimg Point. Two small reefs near the head of the bay (all these reefs dry at low water). A bank of 2 fathoms lies 800 yards 57° from Pundu Point. Anchorage. — ^A convenient anchorage will be found, in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud, with the village bearing 271° and Pimdu Point 136°. Directions. — Of the passages on either side of Puhawang Island 84 SUNDA STEAIT. the northern is to be preferred, and, approaching from southward, avoid the reef of Puhawang, which extends off 600 yards, with 15 fathoms close to, steer between Puhawang and Kalagian Islands, for Badung Point, and between reefs by the chart, then for the village Pundu at the head of the bay. Entering south of Puhawang, the islet of Selenga must be kept bearing southward of 136° until within half a mile of Puhawang Island, to avoid the coral reefs extending half a mile from the south point of the passage; thence keep at that distance from the south shore of Puhawang, in not less than 9 fathoms. Discolored water on the 2-fathom bank northeast of Pundu Point will generally be seen, and when the point bears 224° the anchorage may be steered for. Ratal Bay, just north of Pundu Bay, is 3 miles in extent, with 8 to 13 fathoms, mud bottom. Sabu, Ratal, and Pinjindangan vil- lages are situated near the head of the baj' and Menango (Menanga) village on the north side. A broad mud bank occupies the head of the bay, extending about half a mile offshore, and three streams enter the western part of the bay. Kalagian Island, which is 925 feet high, lies across the entrance to Eatai Bay, about 1 mile northward of Puhawang Island, and is surrounded by a coral reef, which extends about 200 yards from the north side. On the south side there is a small island separated from it by a boat channel. Dangers. — Northwestward of Kalagian Island are two coral reefs, which lie in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction from one another. The southern reef has a rock above water, and they both dry at low water. Between the reefs and the island there are depths of from 10 to 11 fathoms. Directions. — The bay may be entered on either side of Kalagian Island. The northern channel is free from danger, but in the south- ern the sand bank and reefs southward of Kalagian Island, the reef near Badung Point and the reefs northwestward of Kalagian Island, must be avoided. Mahitam Island is off the north point of Ratal Bay, with which it is connected by a reef. There is a good anchorage on its north side, in 13 fathoms, mud. Tegal Island, flat topped, 385 feet high, and conspicuous, is north- east 1 J miles, from Mahitam, and 3^ miles west of Chondong Islands ; it is about a mile in diameter and surrounded by a small coral reef. Between Tegal and the western shore some sand banks obstruct the passage, leaving but a small channel, with 15 fathoms, mud. Tegal Island, with its fiat top, is visible throughout the whole of Lampong Bay. Coming from the eastward a vessel may steer for it EINGANG BAY TELOK BETONG. 85 and pass in 15 fathoms; entering from the southward it is also a useful mark from Lagundi Strait. B/ingang Bay, northwestward of Tegal Island, is about 1^ miles deep, with depths of 9 to 12 fathoms, mud. Off the south point is the islet of Lahu, encircled by the coast reef which here projects northward 600 yards. This reef skirts the whole bay, and off the north point incloses the iplet of Tabikel. In the bay are the villages of Ringang, Horun, and Lampasing, the first on a small stream with a reef off its mouth. (Plan of Telok Betung on H. O. Chart 3111.) Tankil Island is 3 miles north of Tegal. Its north side is low, but the south is high; and from the eastern point a stony reef stretches off 100 yards, showing at low water, and may be passed in from 9 to 14 fathoms. On the west side of the island is a passage with 9 fathoms. Binnen Bay, the head of Lampong Bay, northward of Tankil Island, is 4 miles broad and about the same in depth. In the west- ern part, which for nearly 1^ miles from shore is encumbered with reefs and sand banks, are three islands — ^Kubur, Pamunggutan, and Pasarau. Kubur, 336° 1.4 miles from Tankil Island, is 200 yards across, with reefs, partly dry at low water, extending 400 yards east and 800 yards southeast and south. Between Kubur and Tankil a bank dries out from the shore nearly 800 yards. Pamunggutan, the easternmost island, nearly 2 miles 356° from the east point of Tankil, is 100 yards long, low, with some trees. The islet is surrounded by a reef which extends more than 400 yards west and south and dries in places. There is also a detached reef, with 9 feet of water on it, 159° 800 yards from the islet, with a narrow passage of 8 fathoms between. Pasaran is also a low island, about three-quarters of a mile 339° from Pamunggutan and 600 yards from the land. On the south- east and south sides the reef runs off 400 yards ; eastward of this is a reef which dries, and beyond in the same direction are two de- tached banks, each with 1 fathom least water ; the outer edge of the latter is 1.2 miles 101° from the south point of Pasaran. Nearly midway between the last reefs and Pamunggutan is an extensive bank 600 yards long, which partly dries. In the northern part of the bay, southward of Kungit Hill, there is foul ground with rocky heads 600 yards from shore. Telok Betong, on the northwest side of the bay, is the chief town and seat of government for the Lampong district, comprising the southern portion of Sumatra and the offlying islands in Sunda Strait. The southern limit of the roadstead is the line through the 86 SUNDA STKAIT. south point of Pamunggutan Island and the south point of Sungi Panjang. The beach off the town is flat, with dry mud banks. Southward, where it extends off to Pasaran, is coral. Small vessels discharge at the stone jetty. Light. — An occulting white light is shown from a white iron framework beacon 59 feet above the water and visible 12 miles. It is situated on the 1-fathoni reef to the eastward of P.asaran and 2,875 yards 196° from Kungit Hill. Mails — Telegraph. — There is a mail steamer every two weeks to Batavia, and telegraphic communication. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Telok Betong at 9h. ; springs rise 3 feet. The highest tide is two days after full and change. Directions. — Passing eastward of Tegal Island, the past point of the island must be kept bearing to the westward of 180°, to avoid the dangers on the western side of the bay, and when past the light beacon marking the reef off Pasaran anchor abreast the town on a line between Kungit Hill and the light beacon in about 8 fathoms of water. At night, from midway between Tegal and Chondong Islands, steer 348°, and when the occulting light bears 315° haul over for the anchorage. Sungi Panjang. — The eastern side of Telok Betong, from the 'head to Chondong Islands, is high, with scattered villages, and a steep coral reef lines the shore. This reef may be closely approached, except off Sungi Panjang, where the edge is half a mile from the high land. Light buoys. — On the western side of the entrance to East Bay there is a white buoy showing a fixed white light, and on the eastern side a black buoy showing a fixed red light. About 200 yards south- cast from the white buoy is another white buoy showing a fixed green light, also on the western side of the entrance. Chondong Islands are three in number, of which the northern- most is a high steep rock, and the two others are larger, but not so high. Between the islands are narrow passages, with 12 fathoms water ; and between them and the main the depths are from 10 to 14 fathoms, mud. Dangers. — From the south point of the eastern island a reef extends for a distance of 800 yards, and half a mile eastward of the south point of the same island there is a small coral reef about 200 yards square, with 1 fathom least water on it. About 11 miles, 141° from the above island is a reef about 800 yards in extent, with a least depth of 1| fathoms over it. Coast. — From Chondong Islands the coast trends in a southeast- erly direction for 5 miles, to Selakie (Selaki) Point, and then 120° for 8 miles, to Belantung Point. It is high and fringed by a coral KEAANVOGEL ISLAND CHANTI EOAD. 87 reef about 600 yards in breadth which breaks with westerly winds, and at 1 mile from the shore are depths of 11 and 12 fathoms. Kraanvogel or Crane Island, 9 miles southeastward from Chon- dong Islands, and connected to the shore by a coral reef, with 9 fathoms close to its south and west sides, is difiicult to discern, as it lies close to the high land, and consists only of a single rock. Just to the eastward of it, however, there are some white limestone rocks on the shore. Lubuk or Belantung Bay, eastward of Belangtung Point, runs northward 1^ miles, and is nearly 2 miles broad. In the entrance are 10 and 11 fathoms, mud, which decrease to 5 and 4 fathoms; the shore is lined with a stony reef, on which the sea breaks. The villages of Belangtung and Lubuk are near the head, the latter on a fresh- water creek. Kalianda Scad is 3 miles southeast of Belantung Bay, with tjie village of Kalianda on a small rivulet. Upon the white sandy beach are large rocks above water, with easy landing between them. Hot . springs rise among the rocks near the village. Dangers. — ^A rock, which dries at low water springs, lies about 600 yards from the shore, with the flagstaff bearing 129°, and there are several rocks in the immediate vicinity with depths of 3 to 5 fathoms between them. Buoy. — ^A black conical buoy is moored to the southwestward of these dangers. Telegraph cable. — ^A telegraph cable connects Kalianda with Java; vessels are prohibited from anchoring near the cable, which lies in a west-northwest direction from a beacon with triangle near the cable house. A red fixed light is exhibited from near the cable house. Anchorage.^ — There is good anchorage in 7 fathoms water to the southward of the buoy, with the flagstaff in line with the stone pier- head, bearing 114°. The coast from Kalianda runs southward 4 mUes, and southeast- ward 2 miles farther to Kelapa Point. Here and there upon the skirting coral reef are rocks above water, scattered villages will be seen along the shore, and the slopes of Mount Kaja Basa rise steeply from the water. The two peaks of Mount Eaja Basa, 3 miles inland, are conspicuous. The higher, the northwestern, is 4,202 feet. With westerly winds this coast is dangerous, and there is no land- ing. Chanti Road is nortl^ward of the prominent point, 4 mUes from Kalianda. The anchorage is in 8 fathoms, blue mud, with the south point of the road 137°, and the southwestern Tiga Islet 237°. The depth increases regularly to 3 fathoms near the edge of the reef. 88 SUNDA STKAIT. Water. — At the village of Chanti there is good water. Raja Basa Boad is northwestward of Kelapa Point, and on the shore is the large village of Kaja Basa. Water can be obtained, but with greater difficulty than at Chanti. The ancliorage is 1 mile from shore in 9 fathoms, mud, with Tiga Islet 275°, the village 67°, and Kelapa Point 123°. Kelapa Point is low and overgrown with coconut trees, but is easily seen. The reef around the point may be approached in 8 or 9 fathoms. Coast. — ^From here the coast runs east 4 miles to a slightly pro- jecting point, off which are the small islands Menkodo (Menkudu) and Sekapal, and 2 miles beyond in the same direction the land turns sharply south for 3 miles to Varkenshuk. Menkodo, about 600 yards in length in a north-northeast and south-southwest direction and 200 yards in breadth, has two summits about 65 feet high. Sekapal, situated 400 yards from the coast, is highest at its southern part. Small vessels pass between the islets and main at high water and find shelter. With a high sea from south of southwest the only con- venient landing place is northward of the western islet. This coast was swept by the tidal wave during the last eruption of Krakatoa, and the lower slopes are bare of trees. Varkenshuk, or Hog Point (Tanjong Tua) , the southeastern extreme of Sumatra, is high, rocky, and thickly overgrown with trees. One hundred yards westward of the point is a rock above water, and the water is deep close to the shore. Tims or Collier Rock, 6 or 7 feet, high, 33 yards in extent, and steep-to, lies IJ miles 312° from Varkenshuk and IJ miles from the nearest land. It can be seen at least 3 miles. Krakatoa Island, an active volcano, lying in the middle of Sunda Strait, was, before the earthquake in 1883, about 5 miles by 3 miles in extent. That portion of the island northward of the highest peak was completely destroyed by the upheaval, and the scattered frag- ments form numerous banks in Sebesi Channel, which is rendered imnavigable. The island is now about 3 miles in length, east and west, by 2 miles in breadth, and, from the peak, 2,667 feet high, the north side of the island, is a perpendicular cliff forming part of the arc of the crater, which lies between it and Verlaten Island. Except on the north coast, a steep reef surrounds the shores and from the west point projects 1 mile. A mile from the north side the depths are 82 to 157 fathoms, green bottom. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Krakatoa Island, at 7h. ; springs rise 4 feet, neaps scarcely perceptible. The tides, how- ever, are much influenced by the prevailing monsoon. Volcanic eruption. — The volcano of Krakatoa was in eruption in the year 1680, and, although included within the category of active VOLCAKIC DISTUEBANCES. 89 volcanoes, it remained in a state of quiescence for upward of 200 years. In the year 1883, on May 20, the volcano burst out with great vio- lence, accompanied by earthquakes, which were severely felt at Bata- via, and at the same time vast showers of pumice and ashes were pro- jected to a great distance. The eruption was observed from the Imperial German ship Elisabeth, and on the following day, when 100 miles from Krakatoa, a shower of dust was experienced which was estimated to become a layer 1 inch in thickness in 24 hours, and this was still falling when the vessel had gained a position 300 miles southwest of Sunda Strait. On August 26 of the same year Krakatoa again burst into erup- tion, and of such a terrible nature that miles of coast on both sides of the strait were wholly devastated and multitudes of people per- ished. On August 27 a succession of earthquake waves swept the shores of the strait, utterly destroying the towns of Anjer, Merak, Charingin, and Telok Betong, together with some of the lighthouses on both shores. This remarkable disturbance of the sea made itself felt in various parts of the world upon the same date, notably in Australia and southern Africa, also at Karachi, in India. The vast amount of pumice which lay upon the surface of the sea, in some places many feet in thickness, gave an appearance as if the ocean bed had appeared above water. The steam from the volcano was estimated to have been driven to a height of more than 12 miles, and the rain of ashes fell over all southern Sumatra and northward to Singapore, eastward to Batavia, and southwestward to the Cocos Islands ; finer particles of dust float- ing in the upper atmosphere enveloped the earth, and caused brilliant sunsets up to December of that year. The sound of the explosions was heard at Perth in Western Australia, in New Guinea, Ceylon, and the island of Mauritius. The tidal wave — which, where obstructed, increased greatly in volume — was observed at Toppers Island to rise 72 feet; at Merak, between the island and mainland, about 120 feet ; and from Varken- shuek to Telok Betong the average height was about 80 feet. Every object on the shore, into the first range of hills, was leveled with the ground, and where the land was low the sea penetrated 5 miles in- ward. At Telok Betong the water rose to the square of the resident's house, 118 feet above high water, and the Government steamer Berouw was swept over the pier into the Chinese quarter of the town, a distance &f nearly 2 miles from the anchorage. The undu- lation was felt on the north coast of Java ; in Batavia Road it rose 8 feet in height, and in Tanjong Priok Harbor, on August 27, from 12.30 to 1.30 p. m., the water suddenly fell 18 feet. 90 SUNDA STB AIT. The island for 100 feet up remained a mass of glowing lava and stones. All animal and vegetable life was destroyed, and it was five years before verdure again returned. According to official report, 36,417 persons perished, 37 of these being Europeans. Verlaten Island, 2^ miles northwest of Krakatoa, is nearly three times larger in area than formerly, and is 597 feet high. It is also an active volcano. The island is about 3J miles in length, in a northeast and southwest direction, by 1 mile in breadth. A broad reef, with rocks above water, surrounds the island, and extends northward 1^ miles. One mile eastward of the east point is a bank under water. Lang Island, 482 feet high, is 1^ miles long, north and south, and about half a mile broad, and separated from the northeast side of Krakatoa by a channel nearly 1^ miles wide. This island does not appear to have altered much, but the channel formerly between it and Krakatoa was only 400 yards wide. A reef stretches out from its west side nearly 'half a mile. Dangers. — Three-quarters of a mile west of the south point is Bootsman Rock, rising perpendicularly from a great depth to 17 feet above the sea. Two rocks are off the north point, and half a mile northward is a depth of 2^ fathoms. Krakatoa Channel between Krakatoa and Lang Island, is about 1^ miles wide, with deep water. As reefs extend from Krakatoa and Verlaten Island, great caution is necessary, and the passage should only be used by steam vessels. Sebesi or Tamarind Island, about 11 miles 16° from Krakatoa Peak, is 3 miles across and nearly circular. It has two peaks, which rise abruptly from the southern extremity of the island, and slope gently down to the northward; the higher is 2,768 feet above high water. About half a mile off the east side are three small islets, name'd Husband, Little Tamarind, and Gorts, each surrounded by a reef, with banks between them. A reef extends about a third of a mile off the northeast side of Sebesi. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage around this island except on its south side, in 15 to 25 fathoms water; and at 1 mile from the nprtheast side there is an excellent roadstead with 13 fathoms water, even in southwest gales. Sebesi Channel, between Verlaten and Sebesi, is 8 miles wide. It is obstructed by reefs and banks of mud and pumice thrown out from Krakatoa, and should not be attempted. The center of the channel is occupied by an extensive flat, 8 miles long in a northwest and south- east direction. Steers Reef, on the western part, and Calmeyer Reef, near the southeast end, are nearly awash; and the bank, which is SEA EOCKS TIGER ISLETS. 91 liable to constant change, generally breaks all over. On the southern side of this flat are detached heads of 3 and 4 fathoms. On the north side, between the shoal and Sebesi Islands, is Hindostan Rock, with 9 feet water, 1^ miles from the island, and Boom Eock, a few feet above water, half a mile from shore. Sea Rocks, 5^ miles 259° from the southwest end of Sebesi, are two pyramidal rocks, steep-to, and inaccessible. The southernmost, about 30 feet high, is the largest, and named Gap Rock, from a cleft in it. They are connected under water by reefs, upon which the sea continually breaks. The depths round the rocks are from 7 to 14 fathoms, and south-southeast of them, distant about half a mile and IJ miles, are two patches, with 5 and 4 fathoms water over them, re- spectively. Other dangers not charted may exist in this neighbor- hood. Sebuku Island, 1,187 feet high, lies north-northeast 1 mile from Sebesi Island, and consists mostly of craggy hills. Its extent is 3J miles north and south, and about 3 miles east and west. Reefs and ledges project from the numerous points of Sebuku, but they do not seem to extend far off, except from the west point, from which a reef stretches off 1^ miles. This reef is steep-to, but not dan- gerous, because the westernmost rock on it rises to a considerable height above the water, and has a slight resemblance to Sea Rocks. Close to the east side of Sebuku is Beschutter or Shelter Islet, which is 460 feet high, and is surrounded by a small reef. A coral rock, lying mid-channel between the east point of Sebuku and north point of Beschutter Islet, renders it unadvisable to enter from the northward. Anchorage. — Between Beschutter Islet and Sebuku there is good anchorage for small vessels in 15 to 18 fathoms water, over clay, and there is a good road for large vessels in 11 to 15 fathoms water, over clay, off the east side of Beschutte^ Islet. The channel between Sebuku and Sebesi Islands is 1 mile wide, with soundings from 16 to 22 fathoms, hard sandy bottom. The passage northward of Sebuku, between it and Tiga Islets, is 1^ miles wide and has from 24 to 30 fathoms. Tiga Islets, or Three Brothers, are small and rocky. They are 7 miles southward of, Lubuk Bay and 2^ miles from the nearest point of Sumatra. From eastward they appear as one, and do not begin to open until near Raja Basa Road. The western island is largest and from its northwest side a reef projects 500 yards, .and is gen- erally marked by breakers. Between the two southeasternmost islets is a channel with 18 fathoms. The coast from Varkenshuk trends to the northeastward for 6 miles to Steile Huk; Tanjong Bawang, 1 mile eastward, is pfecipi- 92 SUNDA STBAIT. tous and the hill behind rises to 389 feet. Two miles north of Var- kenshuk the summit of the land is 837 feet above the sea. From Var'kenshuk to Tanjong Bawang the shore is rocky and the water deep;" beyond this there is fringing reef, and the depths gradually decrease. Midway between Varkenshuk and Steile Huk, half a mile inland, is the village of Begantungan, and a small unnavigable river enters the sea half a mile southward. Zutphen Islands, lying along the coast northeast of Varkenshuk, extend over nearly 5 miles in length by 2 miles in breadth ; the south side of the group is steep-to, and the water deep. The four larger islands and three of the smaller are high and densely wooded, the remainder being coral islets, some with scanty vegetation; between them' are many reefs. In the western monsoon both the northwest- going and southeast-going streams are felt with some strength amongst the islands. The passage westward of the group is used by coasting vessels, but for others it is not recommended. Kandang, the southwesternmost of Zutphen Islands, nearly 2 miles long, three-quarters of a mile wide, and wooded, consists of two separate hilly portions, the southern being 320 feet high and the northern 226 feet. On the west side of the island is a small border- ing reef. On the northwest side is a small bay with anchorage for coasters, close inshore, in 11 or 12 fathoms. A reef projects 100 yards from this point of the island. Northwestward of Kandang arfe two coral reefs, the western. Go- song Tembulung Besar, midway between Kandang and Kelapa, is 300 yards long by 75 yards broad; the other, Gosong Tembulung Kechil, of about the same size, is between the first and Kandang. On the north end of each is a dry sand bank. There is deep water be- tween and on either side of these reefs. Hout and Hoog Islands. — ^Hout (Penjurit), the easternmost and third in size, has on the south side a ridge' 300 feet high, and on the eastern point is a hillock of 177 feet. The island is three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide ; a reef borders the eastern sides. Hoog Island (Kandang Kechil) is smaller and 315 feet high. There is a small islet southward of Hoog Island named Menjukut. A rapid stream runs between these islands. Kelapa Island, on the western side of the channel northwestward of Kandang, is small, low, and surrounded by reefs. Between the island and the Sumatra shore is a passage with 16 to 27 fathoms. Siudo, a rocky islet farther south and under the Sumatra coast, has on its southwest part a small hill. It is about 400 yards across, and on the west, southwest, and -southeast sides surrounded by a reef, 45 yards broad. On the west side of the islet is a narrow cove about GEBEOEDF.RS KBAMAT. 93 200 yards long, with 2 to 3 fathoms water. Small vessels can cross the reef at high water. Anchorage, in 5 fathoms, will be found southward of Sindo, with the southeast point of the island in line with the highest point of Rimau, and the south point of Kandang 123°, but this is open to swell from southward. Northwestward and 400 yards northward of Sindo are reefs which dry,; 400 yards east of the latter is a depth of 4 fathoms. Between the islet and the main there are 3 to 6 fathoms water. Gebroeders, or Pulo Dua, northward of Hoog Island, are low and each about 400 yards long. Except on the sides facing each other they are fringed by a reef 60 to 120 yards broad, with stones above water ; between the islands is a passage 100 yards across with 7 to 12 fathoms. A small head, with 4 fathoms water, lies 233° 400 yards from the western island. Biimau Island, 1^ miles long hj 1 broad, the northermost and largest of Zutphen Islands, is also the highest, and has two sum- mits 802 and 718 feet high, the south end being the higher. The northwest end is low for 400 yards from the extremity, a portion of which is a sandy beach, affording a good landing place. The island is partly fringed by a reef to the distance of 100 yards, with 5 fathoms close-to. Boompjes Reef (Gosong Barak), parallel with the western part of the south coast of Rimau, is 800 yards long and 200 yards broad; at low water the east and west ends dry, and at high water some stones still show. Between the reef and island is a passage 60 to 80 yards wide, with 10 to 12 fathoms. Gosong Geni lies 38°, a quarter of a mile from the northwest point of Rimau. At high water one and at low water two sand banks are dry ; it is 200 yards long north and south, with deep water near. Gosong Gijang, on the west coast of Rimau, abreast Tompul, is 400 yards long and partly dr^^ ; between it and the island is a passage 150 yards wide, with 7 to 8 fathoms. Kimau Keehil, a rocky islet 212 feet above high water, and about 200 yards in diameter, lies close to the northeast point of Rimau, with from 14 to 17 fathoms water in the channel between. Tompul Island, between Rimau and the main, is a quarter of a mile long, and surrounded by a narrow reef which, from the north point, projects 100 yards. Kramat and Katila are two small islets near the shore, southward of Tompul, both surrounded by narrow reefs, Kramat, the north- ern, is 200 yards long. Panalang and TJsumbra are two steep reefs nearly mid-channel, eastward of Katila, each having a dry sand bank at its northern end. 94 SUNDA STEAIT. Between and around these reefs are 7 to 23 fathoms. A drying rock lies 800 yards, 194°, from Panalang; a reef near the western shore, 600 yards southwestward of Katila; and a sunken rock, 350 yards northeastward of that islet. Steile Huk (Tanjong Sumur Batu) , on the Sumatra coast, abreast the north point of Rimau, is bluff and steep, the ridge of hills be- hind attaining the height of 812 feet at Mount Andong. The reef at the point is 80 yards broad, and off the village of Sumur 200 yards. Gosong Labuan, a reef partly above water, lies on the shoal bank, 800. yards north-northeastward of Steile Huk, and 600 yards east- northeastward of the point are two patches of 3 and 5 fathoms, re- spectively, and 8 to 15 fathoms around. AncIiGrage. — ^In the westerly monsoon there is good anchorage northward of Steile Huk, in 9 or 10 fathoms, mud and sand, off the rivulet of Sumur, with the coast of Kandang Island open west of Rimau. There is considerably less current here than amongst Zut- phen Islands. ■Working through Sunda Strait during the northwest mon- soon. — The best route is between Zutphen Islands and Stroom Rocks, giving Zutphen Islands a berth of 1^ miles, thence work up by short tacks along the coast of Sumatra to Varkenshuek. In working through the passage between Sebuku and Sumatra, pass either north- ward or southward of Tiga Islets, as the strong currents and hard squalls may allow, thence to the northward of Tims Island, and between it and Sunchal, or through Lagundi Strait. In this manner a vessel will make a quick passage through the strait, if the wind be not too variable, besides having the advantage of anchoring on the east side of Sebuku Island, or in Lampong Bay, if the currents or winds be too strong. There are, however, on record many instances of vessels having worked out of the strait along the coast of Java, during the westerly monsoon, with more ease and celerity than could have been effected by stretching into Lampong Bay, in consequence of the southerly current from the Java Sea having then developed its chief strength along the eastern side of the strait. CHAPTER IV. FROM SUNDA STRAIT NORTHWARD AND TO BATAVIA. This chapter describes the coasts and islands in the northward and westward approaches to Sunda Strait and Batavia. The Sumatra coast is first dealt with, then the numerous islands northward of those in the immediate vicinity of the Java coast between Sunda Strait and Batavia, and lastly the coast of Java from Sunda Strait to Krawang Point. Monsoons. — In the western part of the Java Sea, except within the influence of the east coast of Sumatra, the southeasterly monsoon prevails from April to November, and it is generally hazy, with overcast nights. The northwesterly monsoon lasts from December to March, and is stronger in force than the southeasterly. Thunder- storms also are more frequent than in the eastern parts. In April feeble winds are experienced neaf the Java shore, mostly land and sea breezes, but in May the monsoon blows steadily from east-southeast. During November southerly and light variable winds return; these are felt in the offing, with land and sea breezes on the coast. The western monsoon begins in December, and reaches its maxi- mum, strength in January and February, blowing then from west- northwest, and abates in March. At this season the land breezes seldom comes off the Java coast. In the eastern part of the sea during April there are light south- erly breezes, but with airs from all directions. The southeast mon- soon is at its height in July and August, and blows with much steadi- ness for seven months, from May to November, between east-south- east and southeast. The westerly monsoon commences in December and lasts to about the middle of March, the greatest strength being in February, and the direction west -northwest. This monsoon, which in the central part south of Borneo blows from west, here abates in steadiness as well as force, but heavy squalls may be looked for, and these occur exclusively with westerly winds. Owing to particles of dust brought from Australia it is very hazy during the southeast wind, being densest about September and Octo- ber, and distant objects are then but dimly seen. In the westerly monsoon, especially in April, when the rainfall decreases, the atmos- phere is transparent, with bright starry nights. 95 96 'FROM SUNDA STRAIT NORTHWARD AND TO BATAVIA. Rain. — Showers may fall at any time, but the heaviest rains are -expected from November to April in the western part, and in Decem- ber, January, and February in the eastern, about one wet day in three occurring over the whole area. Sea.^ — Considerable swell comes through from the China Sea, par- ticularly during the strength of the northwest monsoon, and a heavy sea is frequently experienced, partly attributable to varying currents running in opposition to the wind. Currents are for the most part drift streams, depending on the winds. During the southeast monsoon the west-flowing current in the eastern part of the sea is joined and deflected to the southward by the strong inflow through Makassar Strait ; southward of Borneo it runs west and turns northwestward into Carimata Strait ; also, in a lesser degree, through Sunda Strait. Similarly, in the northwest n^onsoon, the current southeastward through Carimata Strait turns east south of Borneo and, when in- fluenced by the southerly stream of Makassar Strait, trends more south toward the islands east of Java. In this monsoon, when passing the large bays or indentations on the north coast of Java, an inset will be found at the western and an outset at the eastern ends, which may amount to a mile an hour. The average daily rate during the southeast monsoon is 11 miles and in the northwest monsoon 15 miles, but they are irregular in force and direction. Tides. — Generally, in the western part of the sea, the highest, or spring, tide occurs one day after the moon's greatest declination. From springs to two days before neaps, high water each day is half an hour later. After that it is earlier each day until three days after neaps, the maximum as much as one and a half hours, then lessens to the next spring. The range at springs over this area is from about 3 to 6 feet. Tidal streams, except in narrow passages near the land, are only felt during the still periods between the changes of monsoons. At other times they merely accelerate or retard the wind currents. The coast of Sumatra from Steile Huk runs in a northerly direc- tion for about 150 miles to Banka Strait. For 25 miles of this dis- tance there are few dangers outside the coast bank, but beyond reefs and shoals stretch off many miles from shore, the land being gener- ally low, flat, swampy, and uninhabited. From Steile Huk to Kangalan Point, a distance of 3 miles, the shore is low, sandy, and overgrown. Nearly a mile northward of Steile Huk is the village and rivulet of Sumur, and Sumur Hill, 345 feet high, is the northern end of the coast hills extending from Var- kenshuk. The shore reef runs off half a mile and the 5-fathoms line is close to the edge of shoal water. KAXGALAN POINT SIBBANDI BEEF. 97 About 2 miles westward of Kangalan Point are Guchi and Taman, two hills, 822 and 827 feet high. The former appears as a broad, truncated cone ; the latter is also broad, with its highest point on the south side. Thence northward the country is densely wooded and flat as far as Sungi Nibung. Kangalan Points-Reefs. — A coral reef 500 yards in extent, with a least depth of 2^ fathoms, lies 500 yards off Kangalan Point and about 1 mile southward of Logok Island, with depths of 7 to 13 fathoms close-to. There is a coral patch of 6 fathoms 500 yards northeast of this reef and one of 2| fathoms three-quarters of a mile south of the point and the same distance offshore. Logok (Kapia) is a small but high island covered with vegetation, 1 mile north of Kangalan Point, 200 yards within the edge of the 3-fathom line of soundings and half a mile offshore. The Gezusters (Sisters) are three small low islands off Chu- kunanga Point, about 2^ miles northward from Logok. The north- ernmost is the largest, about 400 yards in extent ; the western half is covered with coconut trees, the eastern side is a swamp; the other two are covered with low trees and bushes and not readily distin- guished from any distance. The western island is 500 yards from the shore, and they all lie within the edge of the 3-fathom line. Irregular ground extends eastward, with patches of 5^ fathoms 1 mile east, a depth of 9 fathoms 2 miles from the outer island, and a depth of 8 fathoms about 1| miles eastward of the southern Gezuster. North Island, 3| miles north of the Gezusters and 2 miles from short, is a low coral island 800 yards in extent covered with trees and brushwood. It is encircled by a reef extending off in some places 200 yards. Two conspicuous trees on the north end of the island may be seen from the distance of 14 miles. Sina, the small islet 200 yards southward of North Island, is covered with bushes, and there is a channel with depths of 8 to 9 fathoms between the steep coral reefs fringing Sina and North Islands. Sibrandi Reef, a coral patch of 8^ fathoms, with 6 to 8 fathoms close-to, lies with Sina Islet bearing 270°, distant half a mile, and there is a patch of 5^ fathoms between the reef and North Island. Directions.— Mount Aridong, open east of Logok Islet, leads eastward of these patches. Between North Island and the shore bank there is a channel about 600 yards wide with 8 to 16 fathoms of water. Vessels taking it should pass about 300 yards westward of the island; keeping the summit of Eimau Island open just eastward of the northern Gezuster will lead clear of the 5-fathom edge of the bank. • 90045—15 7 98 PEOM SUNDA STRAIT NOETHWAKD AND TO BATAVIA, Anchorage. — Between North and Gezuster Islands the coast is edged by a mud bank. At 2 miles from the shore will be found good anchorage in from 8 to 12 fathoms, mud, with North Island bearing 11° at about the same distance. Small vessels will find good anchor- age between Gezusters Islands and the main in 2 or 3 fathoms water. In the easterly monsoon there is considerable sea at times. Vessels may then anchor under the lee of North Island in 10 to 16 fathoms, mud and sand. The holding groundi is generally good, but the bot- tom should be ascertained before anchoring, as many isolated patches of coral exist. From North Island to Sekampung Eiver the 5-fathom line is 1| miles from shore and close to the steep shoal edge of the bank. Sekampung River, 6 miles noith of North Island, is the largest stream of southeast Sumatra. The entrance is about 400 yards wide and 200 yards a short way within. On the bar at low water is 2 feet and the rise at springs 3 feet ; inside it deepens to 4 and 5 fathoms, and the strength of the stream is li to 2 miles an hour. From southward the thickly wooded south point of the river is sharply defined, but when abreast the mouth is difficult to distin- guish. In the westerly monsoon boats may conveniently water, but in the easterly monsoon a heavy surf breaks upon the bar. Anchorage. — There is anchorage 2 miles off the entrance, in 6 fathoms, with North Island 187° and the mouth of the river 246°. The coast from Sekampung Eiver runs north for 19 miles to Penat Point, and is covered with high trees which may be seen 14 miles off. The only streams of any importance are the Nibung and Maringei ; the latter is east of Mount Imbung, and at high water can be ascended by small vessels to the flourishing village of Maringei. Northward of the river is a sand beach, while to the south the land is swampy. The coast bank, with coral heads of as little as 3 feet water, is here 2 miles wide and the 5-fathom line is 5 miles from shore. From Penat Point, which is conspicuous only from south, the coast continues north 20 miles to Sekopong Point, and is fronted by shallow banks extending off the latter point more than 10 miles. Sekopong is a prominent round wooded point ; the extreme is a peninsula, half a mile long, covered with high trees. Nibung Hill, 16 miles northward of North Island, the southern- most of a group of summits within this portion of the coast, is 774 feet high and somewhat conspicuous from southward. Mount Im- bung, 6 miles northward and 840 feet high, is covered with trees and is the most prominent, being but 3 miles from the coast. Knob Hill, 967 feet, is 8 miles northwestward of Imbung and has a conspicuous knob on its summit. SIIAHBUNDAE BANK-— LYNN BANK. 99 , Dangers. — A coral patch lies within the 3-fathom contour line, IJ miles of the mouth of the Maringei RiTcr with Mount Imbung bearing 281°, distant 5 miles. A small rocky reef, about 100 yards in diameter, on which the • least depth is 3 feet, with 3^ fathoms close-to, lies with Mount Im- bung bearing 257°, distant 5f miles. Shahbundar (Shahbandar) Bank, nearly midway between Points Penat and Sekopong, extends from the shore, abreast Two Brothers Islands, for 9 miles, to the limit of the 5-fathom line. Within this line are many ridges of coral and stones, with from 1^ to 2 fathoms water. Between Shahbundar bank and Two Brothers the channel is 6 miles wide with 7 to 9 fathoms. Two Brothers, low coral islands, 1 mile in extent north and south, are 15 miles from the Sumatra shore. The northern islet is small and round, the southern is 800 yards long. Both are Overgrown with brushwood and tall trees. Those on the south islet may be seen 15 miles. Each is encircled by a reef nearly 400 yards wide, and there is a passage between of 5 to 6 fathoms. There is a rock, with 3 feet water, 600 yards 212° from the south islet. Swallow Bank, with a least depth of 21 feet, is a round patch of coral, 87 yards across, with 8 to 10 fathoms, mud and sand, close around, and lies with Two Brothers bearing 16°, distant 7^ miles. Vessels of heavy draft should be careful to give it a wide berth, as, except under very favorable circumstances (calm water and with a current of at least 1 knot) , there is no ripple to indicate its position. At 200 yards 180° is a patch of 5 fathoms, sand and shells, with 9 fathoms between it and the bank. Lynn Bank is composed of coral, about 200 yards in extent, with a least depth of 2 feet. From the reef the highest part of the south- em of Two Brothers bears 286°, 6^ miles. There are depths of 6 fathoms close to the reef, deepening to 12 fathoms 200 yards distant. The sea only breaks on the reef with an easterly swell. The extremes of the Two Brothers Islands subtend an angle of 9° at the reef. If, therefore, they be made whilst passing on (or within a point or more of) the above bearing to subtend an angle of 8°, a vessel will pass about a mile outside the reef, and if an angle of 10°, half a mile inside. In calm weather the shoal, from its dark color, is extremely difficult to see until close upon it. A sharp lookout should always be kept, as the shoal may only be detected by a slight ripple. At night it is recommended to close the Two Brothers Is- lands and pass them at the distance of from 1 to 2 miles. 100 FEOM SUNDA STEAIT NORTH WARD AN0 TO BATAVIA. Brouwers Keefs are two dangerous coral reefs, about 1 mile in extent,, with a dry patch of sand and coral upon each. Between the two patches there are 10 to 14 fathoms. Hard ground stretches from their north and south ends. At a short distance to the eastward and westward the bottom is soft and the depths 14 and 15 fathoms. The northern reef lies with the southern Segama Island bearing 241°, distant 11 miles, and North Watcher Island 124°, 13 miles. They may usually be seen from the distance of 2 miles. Clearing marks. — Mount Imbung, well open southward of the southern of the Two Brothers, leads southward of Brouwers Eeefs, and the same mount open northward of the northern of the Two Brothers leads northward of the reefs. The highest mountain seen in clear weather to the southward is Mount Karang (5,833 feet high), south of Anjer, but the round hill. Mount Gedeh, 1,968 feet high, over St. Nicholas Point, is more often visible, and is a good landmark. At night vessels should pass within a prudent distance of North Watcher Light. At about 6 miles northwestward of Brouwers Eeef, with Two Brothers bearing 203°, distant 8 miles, a bank with 6^ fathoms (least water found) was passed over by the British ship Magpie, 1883. Nortk Wiatcher is 600 yards in length, 200 yards in breadth, and covered with trees. It is visible in clear weather 14 miles. On the northwest side is a small haven, formed by a breakwater of coral stone, having a flagstaff at the extremity, and affords landing for boats. The island is surrounded by a coral reef, which dries in places, and extends on the east and south sides a distance of 500 yards. Lig-ht. — From a white iron frame tower, 157 feet high, near the center of North Watcher Island, is shown from a height of 159 feet above high water, a -fixed and -flashing white light, which should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 18 miles. Omega Reef, about 300 yards in extent, and with a depth of 3 feet, is steep-to, and lies about one-half mile 114° from North Watcher. Karang Pajong, a small patch with a depth of 5 feet, is 192° from the lighthouse, distant about one-half mile. Between the reefs and the island the depths are 14 to 16 fathoms, mud and sand. These reefs will be avoided by keeping the angle of elevation of the light at 2° or less. Anchorage, — At the distance of about 1.5 miles from the light- house, in all directions, there is good anchorage in 12 to 13 fathoms ; nearer the island the depth increases in places. Arnemuiden Bank, 17 miles east of North Watcher, is a coral bnnk 400 yards across, with a dry bank of gravel near the center, ETNA BANK JASON EOCK. 101 which is 100 yards long and visible 4 miles. There are depths of 10 to 15 fathoms close-to and 11 to 12 beyond. Light. — A red flashing light is exhibited, at an elevation of 33 feet above high v^ater, from a black skeleton beacon 26 feet in height on Arnemuiden bank. Etna Bank, 11 miles 117° from Arnemuiden Bank, is also of coral, 400 yards in extent, with a similar dry bank near its center. The depths are 14 to 16 fathoms close-to and 12 fathoms all round, 600 yards off. Light. — A white occulting light is exhibited, at 44 feet above high water, from a white iron frame lighthouse on the western side of Etna Bank, and should be seen from a distance of 12 miles. Thousand Islands are about 80 in number, extending in a north- northwest direction nearly 23 miles. These islands are overgrown, some with high trees visible from a distance of 14 to 16 miles. All are surrounded by steep coral reefs, which at low water are partially or entirely uncovered, and in some cases large areas of water are im- pounded, into which native boats cross at high tide and find shelter. Besides the islands there are a large number of reefs with dry banks of sand and stones, here and there having some vegetation, and many submerged rocks and banks of less than 3 fathoms water. Only three of the islands, near the center of the group have any fixed population, viz, Panjang, Kelapa, and Pelemparan. In the village on Panjang are 200 inhabitants, the others together have 500; besides these there are temporary settlements by fishermen. Separating the various clusters of islands are a number of passages, which can not be safely used without local knowledge ; and between the south side of the group and Hoorn Islands is a channel, 2 miles wide, with 18 to 30 fathoms. Winds are stronger here than under the Java shore, more so in the southeast than nbrthwest monsoon, and land and sea breezes are but little felt. The force of the wind is greater at night, but steadier during the day. Tides. — ^There is but one high water and one low water in each 24 hours; about the middle of June it is high water at llh. p. m., and is two hours earlier each succeeding month. The range in July and December is 2 to 3 feet and in March and September 1 to 1^ feet. The annual variation in the mean sea level is only 4 inches. Tidal streams. — In calms and light winds the stream sets east- ward during the rising and westward during the falling tide, the former being stronger than the latter. The usual strength is not more than 1 knot ; the greatest observed was 2 knots. Jason Kock, a dangerous coral patch in the fairway westward of the Thousand Islands, is about 50 yards in extent, with a least depth 102 FEOM SUNDA STKAIT NOBTHWAKD AND TO BATAVIA. of 12 feet, and from 16 to 19 fathoms close-to. The water is discol- ored immediately around it, but at a short distance its position is only discernible when there is a strong current. It lies with West Island 119°, distant 8i miles, and North Watcher 44°. Arminia Hock, composed of coral and stone, circular in shape, aild about 55 yards in diameter, with a least depth of 15 feet, and 12 to 16 fathoms, over mud, close around, lies with North Watcher bear- ing 26°, and the south extreme of West Dua Island 96°, distant 6^ miles. Under favorable conditions its position is indicated by Tipples, but not by, discoloration of water. Hereward Reef, a coral head, about 200 yards in extent, of 9 feet water, with 13 to 17 fathoms close around, is 3 miles east of Arminia Kock, with North Watcher lighthouse 14°, 12 miles, and the western Dua Island 102°. West Island, the northwesternmost of the group, is 600 yards long by 400 yards wide, densely wooded, and steep-to at 100 yards distant, except off its sandy northeast point, where the encircling reef extends a distance of 400 yards. The tops of the trees are visible 13 miles in clear weather. Coventry Reef, of coral, 1 mile 204° from West Island, is 400 yards in extent, dry at low water near its north end, with 5 fathoms on the south end. This reef is marked by discolored water, breaks with a slight swell, and there are depths of 15 to 17 fathoms all around at the distance of 100 yards. East Dua Island, in line with West Island, leads northward, and East Dua, in line with Eangat Islet, leads southward of Coventry Eeef. Rangat Islet is about 200 yards in length, and surrounded by a sandy beach, with a reef extending in places nearly 200 yards. Brushwood and a few tall trees are growing on it. Rangat Reefs, about 1.5 miles in extent, are three detached patches with a least depth of 3 feet, and with deep water between and around them. From their extremes, Eangat Islet bears 337° and 292°, about 1 mile distant. Edeling Reefs, two small stone banks nearly midway between Eangat and West Dua Islets, are 800 yards apart in an easterly direc- tion. The eastern patch, with 4 fathoms least water, lies with Eangat Islet bearing 226°, distant IJ miles. The western patch has a depth of 4J fathoms. With a strong current running, their positions are denoted by ripplings. Both are steep-to with 15 fathoms water at a short distance. Beronang Reef, about 200 yards in extent, with 1^ fathoms least water and 14 to 18 fathoms around, lies three-quarters of a mile northwest of the western Edeling Eeef, with West Island bearing DUA ISLANDS — GKBAT KOTOK. 103 230°, distant 3^ miles. It may generally be seen by discolored water or ripplings. Dua Islands, the two northernmost of the Thousand Islands, are 1 mile apart, surrounded by reefs 200 yards broad, and thickly wooded. The eastern islet is the larger, being 600 yards long by 400 yards wide. Between the islands is a clear channel, with 16 to 18 fathoms. Baka, a patch of 7^ fathoms, lies between the above bearings with Jajung Island 51°, 3^ miles distant. Cora, with a least depth of 1^ fathoms, and nearly 600 yards in extent, lies with the west extreme of Jajung Island bearing 136°, distant IJ miles. Channel. — There is a channel about 3 miles wide between Eangat and Edeling Reefs on the west and Cora. Reef on the east. To clear these the eastern Dua Islet must be kept between the bearings 29° and 346° until Northeast Island bears more than 91°. Jajung (Jagung) Island, the northwest extreme of the main group, is 800 yards long and 200 yards broad, densely wooded, and encircled by a reef to the distance of 200 yards. Half a mile north of the island is a shoal of 2^ fathoms. Christian Rock, with a least depth of 2| fathoms, lies IJ miles 234° from the western end of Jagung Island. Genting and Sui Reefs. — Genting Reef, with 3^ fathoms, lies half a mile, 301° from Genting Kechil. Sui Reef, with 4 fathoms, is 1| miles from Genting, in the same direction. The latter reef is not noticeable from any discoloration of the water. Northward of these reefs there are no dangers beyond the reefs en- circling the islets. Beronang Reefs, two small patches, with a depth of 2 fathoms on the eastern one, lies about 1| miles northward of Jermee Reef and about the same distance west-southwest of Genting Kechil. The western patch has a depth of 7 fathoms. Jermee Reef, with a depth of 3 fathoms, lies 1 mile 61° from Pilang Bank. Pilang, a reef half a mile long with a dry sand bank on the middle, is 1 mile 51° from Munggu Rock, with depths of 16 fathoms close around. Ketamba Reef, with a least depth of 2 fathoms, lies about midway between. Munggu Rock, the westernmost of the reefs lying off the west bide of the group, is 600 yards in extent, dry at low water, and marked by breakers or discolored water at all times. It lies with Little Kotok bearing 109°, distant 2| miles. Great Kotok lies 4| miles north-northwestward of Karang Beras. It is three-fourths of a mile in length, covered with trees, with a reef 104 PEOM SUNDA STEAIT NOETHWAKD AND TO BATAVIA. encircling it to the distance of 300 yards. The trees on Little Kotok, half a mile northwestward, may be seen from a considerable distance. Karang Dalam, a patch of 6 fathoms, lies IJ miles 107° from Parang Beras; and Angka Shoal, with 7| fathoms water and 20 fathoms close to, is 281°, distant 4 miles from Karang Beras. Ayer and Karang Beras are the southern islets. Ayer is one of the few distinctive islets. It may be known by a tall broad-topped tree on its north extreme, with two cocoa palms south of it towering above the surrounding vegetation. A sand islet lies on the eastern extreme of the reef, 1-| miles in length, which surrounds it. Karang Beras, covered with trees, is about 400 yards in length and 2^ miles distant from the Hoorn Islands. It is surrounded by a reef, which extends from 600 to 1,400 yards. An isolated patch of 2| fathoms is 300 yards oS the southeast extreme of the reef. North East Island (Great Panchalirang) is 800 yards long, over- grown with high trees, and surrounded by a reef 400 yards broad. Northwestward 400 yards is the small islet of Little Beteloran. Little Panchalirang, half a mile southwest of North East Island, is also thickly wooded and rather smaller than North East Island. The surrounding reef is 100 to 400 yards wide. Northward 800 yards is Panchalirang Reef, with 2 fathoms water. Westward 800 yards is the wooded island Beteloran and southwest of this is Buton, with one broad spreading tree in the center. Four hundred yards northwest of Buton is a reef with 1 fathom and 400 yards north a depth of 3 fathoms. Eiingit Island, nearly 2 miles southward of North East Island, is 700 yards in length, with a reef extending 300 yards southeastward. Karang Mayang Beef, the only Icnown danger on the east side of Thousand Islands, beyond the reefs encircling them, is about 100 yards in extent, with a least depth of 4^ fathoms. It lies with Ringit Island bearing 247°, distant 1^ miles. Between Karang Mayang Reef and Little Opak Islet, 12 miles to the southward, all danger will be avoided by giving the islets a berth of 1 mile. Between Little Opak and Lang Island, a distance of 4 miles, are the extensive Chonkak and fcSempit Reefs. They dry at low water and at all times may be seen by breakers or discolored water. These also should not be approached within 1 mile. The bottom is everywhere mud or sand and mud, and there is good anchorage under the lee of the islands. Belanda, a small islet slightly eastward of the adjacent islands, is a somewhat prominent object, being covered with tall casuarina trees, resembling a small wood from a distance. A reef extends 400 yards eastward from it. Bira and Genting Islands, each about three- PANJANG ISLANDS SUNDA STRAIT. 105 quarters of a mile in length, are westward, and Pemadaran, a similar island, with a reef extending 1 mile eastward, lies to the southwest. Panjang, Kelapa, and Pelemparan Islands, each about 600 yards in length, are the inhabited islands. The two latter are close together. The encircling reef extends nearly 1 mile eastward and westward of them. Lang and Sekati Islands are the southeasternmost of the group. Lang or Long Islet is half a mile in Ifength, with small trees growing on the reef extending 600 yards eastward of it. Sekati is smaller, with a similar reef. South Watcher (Peniki) is 7 miles eastward of the southern groups of the Thousand Islands and 17^ miles 334° from Edam Island lighthouse in Batavia Eoad. It is small, covered with trees, and surrounded by a reef extending from 200 to 500 yards, with depths of 23 fathoms within 100 yards of the reef. The island is visible from a distance of about 14 miles, and,, from a vesselabreast of it the Thousand Islands will be seen from aloft. Sunda Strait to Sanka Strait — Coast. — ^The coast between Sekopong Point and Kenam Point, 16 miles to the northward, is low, marshy, and thickly wooded. The outer danger is Clifton Bank, about 9^ miles eastward of Sekopong Point. Within a depth of 8 fathoms the bottom is irregular ; a least depth of 10 fathoms should be preserved. From Kenam Point northward to Lucipara Point at the entrance to Banka Strait, a distance of about 87 miles, the coast is also low, marshy, and almost uninhabited. At only a few places is there a sandy beach. With the exception of these, and before the mouths of the larger streams, the coast is fronted by a soft mud bank, which dries to distances of from 200 to 800 yards, or sometimes more, rendering landing impracticable. The Masuji and Lumpur Rivers afford communication for small tradiilg craft with Palembang. In clear weather, or during the westerly monsoon, the tops of the trees are visible from the deck from a distance of about 16 miles in the offing. The two principal points of recognition are the high trees on Menjangan Point and those between Serdang and Bungin Points southward of Tulang Bawang Eiver; but as depths of less than 3 fathoms, steep-to, extend about 14 miles offshore in about the parallel of these, they should not be sighted from the deck, but a least depth of 10 fathoms maintained when navigating along this coast in other than light-draft vessels. Patches of 4 fathoms, fairly steep-to, lie about 23 miles offshore between those points. The holding ground is good everywhere, but is irregular within a depth of 8 fathoms. 106 PEOM SUNDA STEAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Tides. — The tides are diurnal. In the middle of June it it high water from Menjangan to Lucipara Points between 10 hours and 30 minutes and 11 hours p. m., the times of high water at Sekopong Point and North Island being 1 hour and 3 hours, respectively, in the morning. These times are two hours earlier each following month. Springs rise, south of Banka Strait, 8 feet; at Menjangan Point 7 feet, and neaps 3 to 4 feet ; near Kenam Point 4J feet at springs and 2^ feet at neaps ; and near Clifton Bank 4 to 5 feet at springs and 2 feet at neaps. Tidal streams. — In the east monsoon the south-going stream sets south-southwest and southwest, and the north-going stream north- west and north-northwest; in the west monsoon these streams set south-southeast and southeast and north-northwest and north, re- spectively. The streams turn against the sun and about the same time as low water, their greatest rate amounting to 1^ knots an hour. The east and west monsoons strengthen the south-going and weak- ens the north-going streams. Off Clifton Bank, near Sekopong Point, in the east monsoon, the north-going stream, to the northwest and north-northwest, has been observed to run for 6 hours and set the whole remaining part of the day to the south-southwest and southwest; setting, during the west monsoon, for about 6 hours to the northward and the remainder of the day to the southward. The greatest rate of the north-going stream is 1| knots, and of the south-going stream 1^ knots. In the vicinity of Banka Strait and Menjangan Point, at the full force of the west monsoon, a stream to the southward, with a greatest rate of 2^ knots, is sometimes experienced every day ; sometimes also, during a day, a stream setting north, with a rate of half a knot for 4 hours. Winds. — In this part of Java Sea the southeast monsoon can not be depended on before the middle of May and lasts until October. During this season it may vary between south and northeast. The weather is dry, with fresh breezes and hazy skies, the haziness being least in the morning hours, but the coast is seldom seen. In November very variable winds may be expected, but in Decem- ber the westerly monsoon blows with increasing steadiness. In Jan- uary the general direction is west-northwest and in February north- west. After that a retrograde movement sets in with a gradual decrease in steadiness. In March it is west-northwest and in April west-southwest. Kain is more plentiful during these months, with heavy squalls, which are more frequent at night, and the haziness is less. During the easterly monsoon the wind is most steady by night and in the westerly by day. SEIiOPONG POINT — SEPUTI BIVBB. 107 In both seasons in daytime the wind will shift to northward as the Sumatra coast is approached and the influence of the sea breeze is felt and at night it will combine with the land wind and draw around to southwest or west. These land and sea breezes may some- times be felt as far eastward as North Watcher. Coast. — Sekopong Point is a rounded prominent point, covered with trees. Its extreme, a small peninsula, has some tall casuarina trees on it with lower trees on the neck. The coast between Sekopong Point and Kenam Point, situated 16 miles northward of it, is marshy and thickly wooded. .The tops of the trees are visible about 16 miles in clear weather, but there are no points for identification. Knob Hill and Mount Imbung, to the southward, will be seen during the westerly monsoon, the clear- weather season. At about 2 miles northward of Sekopong Point in a small bay are two houses inhabited by fishermen, standing under a few coconut trees. Landing is difficult at low water on account of the mud flats fronting the coast. The 3-fathom contour line is generally about 5 miles from the coast and the 5-fathom at 8 miles, but within a depth of 8 fathoms the bottom is irregular; vessels should keep in about 10 fathoms. An- chorage may be obtained anywhere. Water. — During the westerly monsoon fresh water is obtainable at the Wakau Kiver, 4 miles northward of the houses. Shoals. — A shoal with a depth of 1^ fathoms, over hard sand, outside the 3-fathom contour line, lies with Sekopong Point bearing 307°, distant rather over 5 miles. Clifton Sank, situated 89°, distant 9 miles from Sekopong Point, has a least depth of 2| fathoms over hard sand ; it is " steep-to " on its south side, but eastward and northward the depths decrease gradually toward it. A red conical buoy with ball top mark marks wreck 2\ miles eastward of this bank. Seputi River entrance is 800 yards wide, with densely wooded banks. It is from 30 to 40 yards wide, with depths of 3 to 4 fathoms for a distance of 32 miles, but the bar fronting the entrance has but 3 feet over it at low water, rendering it navigable only for small coasting craft. The principal village, Surabaya Ilir, is on the right bank of the main stream, 6 miles above its junction with the Trusan and about 12 miles above the entrance. Shoal. — ^A patch with 3 fathoms water, over hard sand, lies 111°, distant 8 miles from the mouth of Seputi Eiver. Anchorage. — There is anchorage about 4 miles off the river, in i^ fathoms water, over soft mud, with the river mouth bearing 304°, distant 4 miles, and Kenam Point 30°. 108 FROM SUNDA STBAIT NORTHWARD AND TO BATAVIA, Tides. — Springs rise 5 feet, neaps from 2 to 3 feet. Kenam Point, northward of Seputi Kiver, is thickly wooded and prominent when seen from the southward. Sungin and. Serdang Points. — The coast tends northward from Kenam Point to Bungin Point, a distance of 8 miles, the shallow bight between being Telok Baru or Baharu; thence northward to Serdang Point, in which portion are the highest trees in this neigh- borhood, as before stated. Seven-fathom Bank. — Just southward of the parallel of the Seputi Eiver, depths of 7 fathoms are found at a distance of 24 miles from the shore, the bottom being gray mud, sand, and fine shells, with some stones. Tulang Bank. — The shore between Kenam and Serdang Points, and as far as Tulang Bawang River, is fronted by a bank of mud and sand, with depths of 1^ to 3 fathoms, to a distance of about 7 miles. Seaward of these is Tulang Bank, consisting of many isolated.patches of hard sand and broken shells, with depths ranging from 1 fathom to 3 fathoms, and deep water between, over a mud bottom, extending to the distance of nearly 14 miles offshore. The two most outlying have depths of 2 and 2f fathoms, and lie, respectively, with Kenam Point bearing 228°, distant 15^ miles, and 243°, about 12^ miles. The 2-fathom patch is about a mile square and steep-to on its seaward side, with depths of 11 and 12 fathoms at a short distance ; the other shoal is about 800 yards in length in a northeast and southwest direction. The shallow heads break occa- sionally during the easterly monsoon only. Tulang Bawang B,iver is about the largest on this coast. It is 2 miles wide in its entrance between Tmak and Bubuayan Points, with a low-water depth of 3^ feet on its bar (springs rise 5J feet), and is thus available at times for vessels of about 8 feet draft.. Within the bar the water rapidly deepens to 5 and 6 fathoms, and is still 2 fathoms deep and about 90 yards wide at 60 miles above \ts mouth. Settlements. — The fishing village of Dinteh lies on the south shore, and on the same side at about 1^ hours' steaming up the river is Telades village. Mengala, the residence of the Dutch comptroller, and where there is considerable trade, is 60 miles up, with a depth in the river as above given. Water. — The river water is fit for drinking at low water at the end x)f the westerly monsoon, but at other times is brackish. Beacons. — The bar channel and flats are marked by two large and 10 small beacons. Buoy. — A black conical buoy with spherical topmstrk marks the northern side of a shoal, with least depth of 9 feet. This shoal is the MASUJI EIVEE. 109 most northern of the shoals in the immediate vicinity of the river entratnce, and vessels heading for the river should go to the north- ward of this buoy. There is a black can buoy at the entrance to the Tulang Bawang. Eiver 715 yards 120° from the outer ball beacon. The second cross beacon on the port hand entering has been replaced by a beacon with a black truncated-cone top mark. Directions. — From the anchorage, in 4| fathoms water, over mud, northeast by north, distant 3 miles from the northernmost of the two large beacons, a southwest by south course should be steered to pass between the two large beacons, passing nearest to the southern one, thence close southward of the small beacons which mark the flat extending from the north shore. The least water is within the eighth small beacon. On the south side of the passage some rocks dry at low water. To reach the anchorage from seaward from the southward Tulang Bank should be rounded by the lead and Masuji River entrance steered for, bearing about west-northwest, and when Tulang Bawang River mouth bears southwest by west the depth should be 7 fathoms. From this steer between west to west by south until in 5 fathoms water, when a southwest course will lead to the anchorage, with Babuayan Point bearing southwest by south, if not about to enter the river. It is only available with local knowledge, and the beacons are not to be depended on. OfE-lying banks. — Just outside the 3-fathom contour line and between the bearings of 56° and 76° from the northern of the two large beacons there is a sandy ridge, 5 miles in length in an east- southeast and west-northwest direction and 1 mile in breadth, with a least depth of 1| fathoms over it, which is dangerous to vessels ap- proaching the anchorage. About 2 miles southwestward of the western part of above ridge is another about 1 mile in length in a northwest and southeast direc- tion, with a least depth of 2^ fathoms o^er it. Masuji River, situated 15 miles northward of the Tulang Bawang, is about 1 mile wide in its entrance between Pasir Point on the north and Masuji Point on the south side, with a low- water depth of 5 feet ; springs rise 6 feet. It is deeper and of more importance tnan the Tulang Bawang, as it enables small trading craft to proceed by its tributaries and the Ogan River to the residency of Palembang, a voyage of about 14 days. The main direction of the stream is north- westerly for about 50 miles, when it turns southwest. About 2 miles above Pasir Point is the Sungi Bachak, which has a depth of 6 feet, and here the Masuji is about 600 yards in breadth. Lambung village is 10 miles up the Masuji. 110 FEOM SUNDA STRAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Anchorage. — There is anchorage in about 3 fathoms water, 5 miles southeastward of the entrance. Directions. — Approaching from seaward steer with the entrance bearing about west-northwest until in a depth of 5 fathoms, when a west course will lead to the anchorage. To enter the river from the anchorage steer toward the shore until Pasir Point, which has some tall dark trees on it, bears north by west, when it may be steered for, keeping toward Masuji Point as it is ap- proached to avoid the spit of mud and sand extending southward of Pasir Point. Four-fathom Banks. — Eastward of the entrance to the Masuji River a number of patches of mud and sand, with about 4 fathoms least water over them, will be found to a distance of 23 miles. The eastern group is about 4 miles in extent, in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction, at that distance, with depths of 6 to 8 fathoms between and around them. Vessels of other than light draft should pass eastward of them. Shoal. — A shoal with a depth of 11 feet over it exists off the mouth of the Masuji River. It consists of hard sand, is 5,500 yards in length in a northwest and southeast direction, and about 2,200 yards wide. The center is situated with Pasir Point bearing 238°, distant lOJ miles. Menjangan Point is a considerable rounded projection of the coast, with Telok Brugu or Gerugu within and northward of it. The trees on the point and within it are rather low, but along the northern portion there is a narrow stretch of tall trees, which to the northwestward quickly decrease in height again to brushwood on the marshy land toward Sundan River. The tall trees from the oflBng appear as an island ; hence its name on former charts as Tree Island. These trees should not be in sight from the deck when passing Menjangan Point, as the depths are only from 2^ to 3 fathoms at to 10 miles east-southeast of it. A depth of 10 fathoms will avoid all dangers, and the lead should be kept going. Off-lying banks.— About 8| miles east-southeastward of Men- jangan Point there is shoal, 3 miles in length, in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction, and 800 yards in breadth, with a least depth of 2| fathoms over it. About 3 miles westward of, and parallel to, the above lies a nar- row sandy ridge, 7 miles in length and 600 yards in breadth, with 2f fathoms water over it. Between the above-mentioned ridges lie small shoals with depths of 2| and 3 fathoms over them, and north-northwestward of the latter ridge there is a smaller sandy ridge with 1| fathoms water over it. ABEND BANK — TELOK BRTJGU. Ill Areud Bank is the southeast extreme of the 5-fathom contour fronting Telok Brugu, horthward of Menjangan Point. It has a depth of SI fathoms, and from 5 to 6 fathoms eastward and south- ward of it, with Menjangan Point bearing 256°, about 15 miles. The tops of the trees are visible in clear weather from it, if at a height of 11 feet or more above the sea. Northwestward of Arend Bank, within the 5-f athoms contour line, are patches of 2| to 3 fathoms with deep water between, and the bottom, though ghiefly mud and sand, is hard in places. The north- ern of these patches, 3 miles in length in a north-northeast and south - southwest direction, and half a mile in breadth, with 2| fathoms water over it, lies with Pasir Creek bearing 265°, distant 15 miles. Between it and the creek, and also in the direction of Lucipara Point, the bank fronting the shore, with less than 3 fathoms over it, occupies most of the space. Pive-fathom Ba,nks. — From 12 to 20 miles eastward of Arend Bank, and extending over a distance of about 7 miles north and south, are the Five-fathom Banks. They consist of nine ridges or banks with depths of from 4| to 5 fathoms, over a surface layer of sand, and depths of 6 to 8 fathoms, mud and sand, between them. The depths gradually increase to 10 fathoms eastward of them, over a mud bottom. The westernmost, known as the City of Carlisle Bank, and the largest and shoalest found, is 2 miles in length in a north-northwest and south-southeast d.irection, 400 yards in breadth, and has a depth of 4J fathoms over it. The Boreas, to the northward, and an un- named bank to the southward of it, have depths of 4| fathoms. The others have apparently not less than 5 fathoms. The easternmost 5-fathom patch lies with Menjangan Point bearing 263°, distant 34 miles. Vessels proceeding to or from Banka Strait should not come under a depth of 10 fathoms when in their neighborhood. Depths of 7 and 8 fathoms are charted about 14 miles northeast- ward of the Five Fathoms Bank. These depths were reported by the British vessel Imperieuse in 1894 as having been obtained by Thom- son's sounding machine. As this locality has not been sounded, shallower water may exist in this neighborhood, rendering it neces- isary for vessels to proceed with caution. Coast. — Telok Brugu or Gerugu is the shallow indentation northward of Menjangan Point. Depths of less than 5 fathoms ex- tend from 4 to 6 miles off. The shore is alternately sand and marsh ; abreast the sandy portion landing may be effected, but the marshy portions are fronted by mud. The head of the bay is named Telok Sundan, into which the river of the same name discharges. 112 PKOM SUN0A STEAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Between this bay and Lucipara Point the coast is all low and marshy, as before stated. Several streams discharge here, the princi- pal of which is the Lumpur. The mouths may be identified by the higher trees near them. The bank fronting the coast, with depths of less than 3 fathoms, extends from 9 to 14 miles offshore, there being as little as 2 fathoms at 8 miles offshore. Its greatest distance is eastward of the Lumpur Eiver. Lumpur River is of importance through being connected by its tributaries with Palembang, the residency. The entrance is marked by nipa palms growing on the mud bank on either side, and has a depth at low water of 6 feet, increasing to 3 and 5 fathoms within; springs rise 7 feet. The river has a breadth of 300 yards, decreasing gradually to about 100 yards. Its main direction is northwest by west, with gentle curves in the lower portion, but after 1^ hours steaming the river becomes tortuous. The small vessels proceeding from the Lumpur entrance to Palem- bang take about five days. The Lumpur is followed as far as Chambi village, thence by Buagin Creek to Deling Lake, and then by the Komerin up to Sira Pulu Padang, thence by the Pelaju and Musi Elvers to Palembang. Anchorage.— The anchorage off the river is in 3J fathoms water, over mud, at a distance of 8 miles southeast by east from the entrance. lUding Biver, 5 miles northward of the Lumpur, is 100 yards wide, with a low-water depth of 5 feet on its bar, with the high trees on the north shore bearing 323°. The depths within the river increase to 2 and 2^ fathoms. Lobong Itam Creek, 2 miles northeastward of Riding River, is about 90 yards wide, with a least depth of 4 feet on its bar, which increases rapidly within to 2 fathoms. The best water over the bar is with the river mouth northwest by west. Coast. — From Lobong Itam Creek the coast trends northeastward to Lucipara Point, a distance of 10 miles, and abreast the former is fronted by a bank of mud and sand, with less than 3 fathoms water over it, to a distance of nearly 14 miles, and a depth of 1 fathom at about 6 miles off. Abreast Lucipara Point the bank extends off about 2 miles. It may be approached to a depth of about 5 fathoms. Although this coast is uninhabited, trading craft are frequently met with coming from Palembang by the Lumpur, and from Banka Strait. The men navigating them set up temporary shelters on shore, generally at the mouths of the streams, and employ themselves with fishing or with the cutting of nipa palms. A mud bank, dry at low water, .fronts the coast, with but little interruption, at distances of from 200 yards to 800 yards. Directions. — Steam vessels from Sunda Strait to Banka Strait proceed northward between Two Brothers and North Watcher SUNDA STRAIT TO BATAVIA. 113 Islands, aYoiding Jason Eock by keeping North Watcher lighthouse eastward of 57°, and when clear of Lynn and Brouwers Keefs a course is taken eastward of Five Fathom Banks. Sailing vessels usually steer direct for Two Brothers, keeping the southern island bearing northward of 11° to lead eastward of Swallow Bank. Two Brothers Islands may be passed on either side, westward of Lynn and Brouwers Eeefs. The channel west of the islands is 6 miles wide, but Shahbundar Bank must not be approached into less than 7 fathoms water. When northward these islands must be kept bearing westward of 180°. Working north it will be prudent to keep on the Sumatra side, and when northward of Sibrandi Eeef to tack inshore when North Island is in line with Rimau, the highest Zutphen Island, in depths of 6 to 8 fathoms. From northward to Sunda Strait. — Steam vessels and sailing vessels with fair wind, after passing eastward of Five Fathom Banks, in 10 to 12 fathoms, steer for the passage between Two Brothers and North Watcher. In the eastern monsoon, when the atmosphere is hazy and the coast rarely visible, great care is necessary in passing Two Brothers, which from northward appear as one. At night. — Vessels from northward should obtain a good position before dark and ste^r for North Watcher light. When past the light they must not bear northward of 57° until beyond Jason Kock, which is 2 miles within the limit of visibility of the light, then steer for Sunda Strait. With doubtful reckoning at dark, it would be prudent to anchor. SUNDA STRAIT TO BATAVIA. Coast. — The coast between Sunda Strait and Batavia is low and generally swampy, entirely covered by brushwood with higher trees within. Here and there, where the shore is not swampy, are villages with coconut and other trees. Sixteen miles south of Bantam Bay is Mount Karang, with three tops, 5,833 feet high. Forty miles inland of Batavia are Gedeh Mountains, the highest being Mount Pangerango, of 9,915 feet, and Mount Salak, 7,265 feet, is 15 miles westward; these peaks are usually only seen in the western monsoon. Wind and weather.— On this coast, between Sunda Strait and longitude 111° east, the westerly monsoon lasts from December to April, being strongest in January and February, with dark showery weather. During daytime the sea breeze adds strength to the wind and draws it into northwest, but the land wind is seldom felt. 90045—15 8 114 FEOM SUNDA STBAIT NOKTHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. In May the easterly monsoon blows freshly from east-southeast, and is strongest from June to August. Both land and sea breezes prevail at this time. Between the monsoons calms and squalls of winds from all quarters will be experienced, with rain and thunderstorms, particularly dur- ing the autumn change. The rainfall is greatest on the mainland of Java, less on the off-lying islands, and still less in the open sea. Tides. — There is one high water and one low water in 24 hours, although the second tide is slightly apparent; low water foUows about 9 hours after high water. The greatest range is 3 feet. In the eastern monsoon the combined wind and tide streams will run to the westward 1^ to 3 knots ; part of it turns into Bantam Bay. Bantam Bay. — From St. Nicolas Point the north coast of Java takes an easterly direction for about 2 miles to Tanjong Piatu, and then turns southeastward into Bantam Bay, which between Points Kapo and Pontang is 9 miles in width and 6 miles in depth. Near the entrance of Bantam Bay the depths are from 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, decreasing gradually toward the shore, where the bottom is mud. The southern and eastern sides of the bay are low and marshy; but in the west is Santeri (Santri) Hill, 315 feet high, and more to the northward is Mount Gedeh, 1,968 feet high. The little hill of Pinang, known also as Mount Bantam, 852 feet high, situated on the plain westward of Karang Antu, is conspicuous. Salira and Kali Islands. — -Between St. Nicolas Point and Kapo Point are Salira and the Kali Islands, from 400 to 600 yards off- shore. Salira, a low coral islet with a few trees, within the 3-f athoms line, affords shelter for small coasting craft. Also between Kali Islands and the sl\,ore is a small anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms. Islets in Bantam Bay. — Panjang Island, in the entrance, is about 2 miles in diameter, thickly covered with vegetation ^ith cocoa- palms on the south side, and surrounded on the east, north, and west sides by a coral reef to the distance of 50 yards, and on the south side 250 yards, with a detached reef of 1 foot ^A'ater; off the south- west point. On its southeast side the reef extends to the distance of half a mile, and here there are two islets; Mount Gedeh, open south of Panjang Islet, leads southward, and the east point of Pan- jang, bearing 337° leads eastward of the reef. Pamujan and Little Pamujan islands lie, respectively, 3 miles east- ward, and 2 miles southeastward of Panjang Island, nearly in the middle of the bay. These are encircled by coral reefs to the distance of 100 yards, beyond which there is no danger. The islands are small, thickly wooded, and on each is a conspicuous tall tree. Sev- eral other islets lie on the west and and southern sides of the bay, within the depth of 3 fathoms, the outermost is Kubur, 2 miles from the coast, in the southwest part of the bay. PONTANG POINT — BABI ISLAND. 115 Panjang is the only inhabited island in Bantam Bay; the vilhige is on the south side. Pontang Point, the eastern extreme of Bantam Bay, is formed by the delta of the Pontang River, and is covered with tall trees. The river has three entrances, almost dry at low water, and though deeper inside can only be entered by very small craft or boats. A mud bank of less than 3 fathoms extends 1 mile northward of the point, and continues round Bantam Bay from 1 to 1^ miles offshore. In rounding the point the depths should not be shoaled to less than 12 fathoms until the east point of Babi Island bears 341°. Karang Antu (Bantam) , situated on the river eastward of Old Bantam, is the port of Serang, the capital of the Residency of Ban- tam. Old Bantam was formerly the native emporium of these seas, but is now an insignificant place. Serang, distant about 6 miles, is in connection with the telegraph service, and on the main road and railway to Batavia. A harbor master is stationed at Serang, and a harbor sloop at Karang Antu. The salt and coffee warehouses are. at the village, 1 mile up the river. Supplies. — Provisions in small quantities can be procured; any large supplies may be obtained from Batavia. Good water is scarce. Anchorage. — Small vessels anchor in from 3:^ to 3^ fathoms, with Santeri Hill in line with the south side of Lima Islands; the east, point of Panjang Island, 1°, and the small white house, situated close to the river, 192° to 203° ; from 1 to IJ miles off the river en- trance. Large vessels must not anchor with Lima-Kelapa Island bearing northward of 271°. Directions. — In approaching Bantam Bay the Pamujan Islets may be passed on either side, but the channel westward of them is preferable, having regular depths of about 5 fathoms. The approach to Karang Antu is from northeastward of the small harbor light, which is hoisted on a tripod. The entrance is nearly dry at low water and is only available for boats. Babi Island is low and about 7^ miles northward of Pontang Point. It is 2i miles in length by 1 mile in breadth, covered with trees and fringed with a reef extending about 400 yards off its east and west extremes and from 100 to 200 yards off the north and south sides. Around the island the depths are from 16 to 28 fathoms. A ■ few fishermen occasionally resort to the island, and the best landing is on the south side. Light. — From a white iron framework, 64 feet in height, on the; south side of Babi Island, is exhibited, at an elevation of 59 feet above high water, an occulting white light, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 13 miles. The keeper's dwelling is white,, with red roof. For limits of visibility, see Light list. 116 FROM SUNDA STEAIT NORTHWARD AND TO BATAVIA. Coast. — Eastward of Pontang Point the coast, which is low and covered with trees, trends east-southeast for about 15 miles, thence turning northeastward to Kaik Point. In the bay thus formed are the villages of Lontar, Pasir Pahjang, Tanara, and Mauk. The two first mentioned may be recognized from the offing by coconut palms, which are seen long before the other trees on the coast. Tanara may be known by the red roofs of the warehouses, with a flagstaff, which can be seen above the trees; also known by a conspicuous group of trees, just eastward. The trees are a good mark for leading to the anchorage. Mauk may also be known by some tall trees, which are seen from a considerable distance, and were formerly called False Menscheneter Island. Mud bank. — From 1 mile off Pontang Point the mud bank withia a depth of 3 fathoms takes an east-by-south direction ; off Lontar its outer edge is 2 miles from the shore. Near Pasir Panjang the dis- tance is again reduced to 1 mile, whence it suddenly stretches di- rectly off the coast fronting Tanara for a distance of 3 miles. From this position it passes half a mile northward of Changkir Island and about IJ miles off the coast. Toward Kaik Point the bank nears the shore, so that off Toasia small craft can approach close-to. In places this bank appears to be extending, and there is as little as 3^ fathoms § miles northeast of Pontang Point, with Pamujan Island 255° and the west extreme of Babi 337°. Changkir Island can be recognized by its dark trees standing out in relief against the coast. A reef extends nearly 400 yards east- ward of it. Dangers. — Off Pasir Panjang is a reef of small extent, with a depth of 1 foot over it. It lies 31°, distant about 1^ miles from the entrance to Sungi Pasir. Two reefs, both of which dry at low water, lie 12° and 23°, distant 800 and 1,600 yards, respectively, from Changkir Island. Tanara is a place of some importance, situated about 1 mile inland on the Sungi Chidurian, which forms the boundary between the residencies of Batavia and Bantam. The depth in the river as far as Tanara is from 2 to 3 fathoms ; but the bar at the entrance has barely 1 foot at low water. The channel is usually marked by fishing stakes, but Mount Karang (Bantam Peak) kept in line with the mouth of the river leads in the best water. Anchorage. — The conspicuous trees eastward of the mouth of Sungi Chidurian (which may be seen from about 9 miles offshore), kept between the bearings 202° and 226°, leads between the mud bank off Tanara and the shoals northward of Changkir Islet, to the anchorage, in from 2 to 4 fathoms. WESTBHN APPROACHES TO BATAVIA. 117 Coast. — From Kaik Point the coast trends in an easterly direction to Untung Java Point, a distance of 9 miles, thence turning south- eastward into Batavia Koad. Between these points the coast is low and marshy, with some high trees in the background. Near the shore are the villages of Kerang Serang, Keramat (Kramat), and Pasir, the positions of which will be seen by the cocoa palms growing around them. At Burung Point the Chidani River enters the sea by several mouths, forming a delta. The bank of hard mud and sand, which fronts the coast of the bight, extends off about 1 mile. Off Keramat are several shallow patches . on this bank, which break in bad weather. WESTERN APPROACHES TO BATAVIA. General remarks. — Batavia Road is approached from the west- ward by Inner or Dutch Channel, or by Outer Channel. Both may, with ordinary caution, be considered safe. Inner Channel is the shorter and is generally used ; vessels can anchor in any portion of it ; whilst Outer Chaimel is much deeper. Working in, Outer Channel is to be preferred. At night Inner Channel should not be attempted, but the channel close southward of Payung Island light should be taken. Buoys and beacons. — ^These fairways are marked by beacon buoys; white buoys and beacons with balls mark the starboard side of the channel from seaward ; black buoys with cones the port side ; middle grounds, which may be passed on either side, are marked by red buoys with balls; and dangers outside fairways are marked by buoys with black and white bands. As other shoals may exist in these channels, caution should be used when navigating them. Inner or Dutch. Channel — Islets and reefs on southern side. — Menscheneter Reef is a bank of hard sand and mud, with patches of stones, on which the sea breaks at times, extending 3| miles northward of Kaik Point, and with an extreme breadth of 3 miles. Tenga, a small patch of 1^ feet, on the eastern edge, lies 2 miles northeastward of Kaik Point. Between Tenga and the main reef are several rocks which nearly dry. Buoy. — ^A white conical buoy, surmounted by a white ball, with the word " Menscheneter " in black letters, is moored off the end of the reef in 5 fathoms water. Menscheneter (Laki) Island, nearly half a mile in diameter, is low, covered with brushwood and tall trees, and uninhabited. It is visible about 12 miles, and begins to be seen when the east point 118 FROM SUNDA STKAIT NOHTHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. of Babi Island bears 0°. The surrounding reef is from 40 to 240 yards broad, and there is a narrow channel between it and Men- scheneter Eeef. Anchorage. — Southwest of the island there is good anchorage during the easterly monsoon. Karang di Tenga, with a least depth of IJ fathoms near its west- ern edge, is 1,600 yards in extent in an east and west direction. The shallow spot lies 2^ miles east-northeastward of Kaik Point. Buoy. — A white conical buoy, surmounted by a ball, marks its north extreme. Untung Java Reef extends 1^ miles north-northeastward of Untung Java Point, and is a continuation of the mud banks fringing the shores on either side of it. Near its extreme are patches of sand and stones which dry at low water. Buoy. — A white conical buoy, surmounted by a ball, in 5 fathoms marks the north extreme of the reef, which is steep-to, there being 8 fathoms just beyond the buoy. The following islets and dangers form the north side of Inner Channel and separate it from Outer Channel : Struisvogel Rocks, the western of these dangers, form a group of six coral patches, covering a space of about 1 mile in extent in a north and south direction. The least depth is 2 fathoms, with from 12 to 20 fathoms between and around them. Buoys. — A white conical buoy, with ball topmark, marks the north edge of Purak, the northern patch showing the south side of Outer Channel ; and a black can buoy with truncated cone is on the south side of Karang Besar, the southern patch, marking the north side of Inner Channel. Karang Laut, two patches with depths of 3^ and 4| fathoms over them, together about 300 yards in extent, are about 2^ miles 88° from Karang Besar. Tongara is a small coral patch of 3 fathoms and steep-to, lying 132°, distant If miles from Karang Laut. Tenga, a small coral patch of 7f fathoms in Outer Channel, is 69°, distant 2 miles from Tongara Eeef. Buoy. — A red conical buoy, with ball topmark, marks the southern side of Tongara Eeef. Pejinab Reef is about 300 yards in extent, with a least depth of 4 feet, and steep -to. It lies with the west extreme of Great Kombuis bearing 71°, distant about three-fourths of a mile. Buoy. — A black can buoy, with truncated cone, is moored on its western side. Great Kombuis are two low islands, covered with bushes and low trees, those on the eastern being highest, with two tops conspicuous LITTLE KOMBUIS MIDDLEBUEG ISLAND. 119 above the others. The western island is nearly three-quarters of a mile in length, the eastern less than half a mile. They are 400 yards apart, and the surrounding reef extends northeastward 800 yards and in other directions 200 or 400 yards. On the northeast edge trees are growing on some dry patches. Broken ground with shallow heads projects from the western island nearly to Pejinab Keef. Chikara, of 2^ fathoms, is 400 yards off the northeast side of Kombuis Eeef, and there are other places, with 4 fathoms, southeastward. Little Kombuis, nearly 2 miles eastward of Great Kombuis, and 800 yards long, is low with high trees, and surrounded by a reef from 100 to 200 yards wide. Hordyk and Tiga. — Southward of Kombuis Islands are several small coral patches. Hordyk, of 2^ fathoms, the western of these, lies about 1 mile 131° from the eastern island of Great Kombuis. Tiga, of 3^ fathoms, is about 1^ miles 125° from Hordyk. Buoys.— Both reefs are marked on the south side by black can buoys with truncated cones. Lumbang, of If fathoms, between Hordyk and Tiga, is about I mile south westward of Little Kombuis. At 600 yards northward of Lumbang there is a patch of 3 fathoms. Pari patches of 4^ and 4^ fathoms are northeastward of Tiga. Meinderts Shoal, of If fathoms, is 300 yards in extent, and lies midway between Tiga and Middelburg Island. Buoy. — It is marked by a black can buoy with truncated cone on the south side. Ketapang, a small patch of 2f fathoms, lies 126° about 1 mile from Meinderts Shoal. Sonko Eeef, of 4^ fathoms, is 400 yards 206° from Ketapang. Buoy. — A black can buoy, with " Ketapang " in white letters on it, and surmounted by a truncated cone, is moored on the southeast side of Ketapang Eeef. Clearing mark. — The beacon south of Middelburg Island in line with a conspicuous notch in the trees, on Amsterdam Island, on the bearing 81°, leads southward of Sonko. Middelburg Island is low, uninhabited, covered with tall trees, and encircled by a coral reef, 200 to 400 yards wide. The reefs stretching 1 mile westward of Middelburg Island are numerous, and the chart will afford more information than a written description of what may be considered unnavigable waters. Buoy and beacon. — ^A black can buoy, with truncated cone, is moored on the southern side of the reef extending from Middelburg Island, and a wooden beacon, with triangle, is erected about 20 yards within the southeast end of the reef. 120 FEOM SUN0A STEAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Between the black buoy on the southwest edge of the reef and the white buoy off Untong Java Keef , Inner Channel, is but 600 yards in breadth. This is the turning point into Batavia Eoad. Outer Channel — Islets and dangers on south side. — ^The dan- gers on the south side of Outer Channel, as far eastward as Little Kombuis, are those described as forming the north side of Inner Channel; the description of the south side dangers are continued from that island eastward. Lekapo is the northwest patch of a group of isolated reefs cover- ing a space of about 2 miles square, lying northwestward of Middle- burg Island. It is about 80 yards across, with 2f fathoms water, and is 2 miles from Little Kombuis, with the north points of that island and Menscheneter in line 263°. Buoy.— A white conical buoy, surmounted by a ball, is moored on the western side. Sau, on the south side of the channel, is 1^ miles northeast of Lekapo, and 2^ miles 349° from Middleburg Island; the reef is 100 yards in extent, with 4 fathoms water, and about 300 yards to the northwestward of it is a depth of 3 fathoms. Buoy. — A white conical buoy, with ball topmark, is moored on the north side of the 4-fathom patch. Eastward of the line joining Sau and Lekapo are Kotak and Bubara Eeefs, with 3 and 2| fathoms water. Ujong and Selatan each of 4| fathoms, are 600 and 700 yards north of Sau. Southeast and south to Middelburg Island the ground is foul, with many shoal heads. Makiam, of 7 fathoms, the easternmost, is IJ miles 119° from Sau. Dapur, 3^ miles northeast of Middelburg Island, is narrow, 200 yards in length, and covered with bushes, among which is a tall tree. The surrounding reef is about 200 yards broad. Tanda is a small coral patch, with 2 fathoms of water, 300 yards eastward of the island. The Gosongs are three detached reefs, 600 yards in extent, with a least depth of 1 fathom, lying about 800 yards northeastward of Dapur. Buoy. — A white conical buoy, with ball topmark, marks the north- east side. The continuation of Outer Channel, eastward of Sau Eeefs, is northward of Dapur Island and of this buoy, the passage west- ward of Dapur Island being named Middle Channel. Middle Grounds. — Outer Channel, between Kombuis Islands and the Agenieten Islands is divided into two branches; the southern is along the north side of Kombuis Island and Lekapo and Sau Eeef, and the northern close southward of the Agenieten Islands. Be- tween these channels isolated reefs extend 4 miles in an east and DELIMA — GREAT AND LITILB TIDUNG ISLANDS. 121 ■west direction, 2 miles north and south, and may be termed the Middle Grounds. Delima, at the western extreme of this group, is 100 yards in extent, with a depth of 2^ fathoms, and 18 to 20 fathoms close-to. Buoy. — A red conical buoy, with ball topmark, marks the north side. Jantur and Tandul. — Jantur, with a depth of 4| fathoms, lies at the southwest corner of the Middle Grounds. Tandul, with 3| fathoms, is nearly 600 yards eastward of Jantur. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is moored on the southern side of TanduL Reef. Panjang di Laut, the northern shoal of the Middle Ground, is 400 yards in extent, with a least depth of 2 fathoms, and lies Tl°, IJ miles from Delima Reef, with the west point of Kongsi Island open of the west end of Pari. Buoy. — ^A white conical buoy, with ball top mark, marks the north extreme of Panjang di Laut. MenyumlDang, 1^ miles 56° from Tandul, with a depth of 3J fathoms, is the easternmost of the buoyed patches. Southward of Menyumbang, and extending into Outer Channel, is Seluku with 6J fathoms, Baju with 4^ fathoms, and Mortuti with 4^ fathoms ; these should be avoided by heavy-draft vessels. Buoy. — ^A red conical buoy, with ball top mark, marks the eastern side of Menyumbang Reef. This last buoy, with the red buoys on Delima and Panjang di Laut, form the south side of the northern branch of Outer Channel ; and the two red buoys with the black buoy on Tandul mark the north side of the southern branch of Outer Channel. This completes the circuit of the Middle Ground. Several iso- lated reefs lie within this area, the principal of which are Serasa, Panjang, and Pederingan, all of which are guarded by the buoys marking the reefs described. Th.e Hoorn Islands, 11 miles east of Babi Island, and 9 miles 350° from Mencheneter, are three in number, named Payung, and Great and Little Tidung Islands. Great and Little Tidung Islands. — These islands stand on a narrow coral reef, 4 miles in length in an east and west direction, and steep-to; Great Tidung is about 2 miles in length, and Little Tidung 1 mile; neither are more than 200 yards in breadth. The tops of the coconut trees are visible from a distance of 10 miles. The point of the reef extending eastward of the islands has a dry patch near its extreme, and bushes are growing on the northern por- tion of the ree.f ; westward of the island reef are isolated patches. A few fishermen live on the islands, and on the larger is a well of water. 122 Jteom sunda steait xokthwaed and to batavia. Kerbou Shoal. — Westward of Great Tidung Island the bottom is foul in places for a distance of 2^ miles. Kerbou Shoal appears to be the western danger ; it is about 400 yards in extent, with a depth of If fathoms, 9 to 12 fathoms close-to, and rapidly increasing to 20 fathoms. From the shoal the west point of Great Tidung bears 115°. Sepilah. Reef, with a depth of 1 fathom, lies 107°, distant 1,200 yards from Kerbou Shoal. Selatan, with 2| fathoms, is 134°, distant 1,400 yards from Sepi- lah Reef, and with the west point of Great Tidung bearing 107°, distant IJ miles. Other shoal heads lie between Selatan and Great Tidung. All these reefs are steep-to, and should be given a wide berth. Clearing mark. — Payung, well open to the southward of the south side of Great Tidung, leads to the southward of Selatan. Payung, probably so named on account of the umbrella-shaped trees growing on it, lies about 1| miles southeastward of Little Tidung. It is about 1,200 yards in length, thickly covered with vegetation, and uninhabited. A shallow reef, which is steep to, en- circles the island, extending 800 yards eastward, 600 yards westward, and about 300 yards northward and southward. Bushes are grow- ing on the dry spots. At the distance of 600 yards northward of Payung and 300 yards from the edge of Payung Reef, is a narrow reef nearly 1 mile in length. Brushwood is growing on the dry portion. Lights. — From a white iron framework, 65 feet in height, on the south extreme of Payung Island, is exhibited, at an elevation of 61 feet above high water, an occulting white light, visible in clear weather from a distance of 13 miles, except where intercepted by islands. On the south extreme of Payung Island Reef, a fixed white light, visible 6 miles, is exhibited from a screw-pile structure situated about 300 yards, 175° from the main light. These lights in line, 355°, lead clear west of Agenieten Islands Reef. Agenieten Islands are on the north side of Outer Channel, about 4 miles northward of Great Kombuis. The group consists of five low islands, entirely surrounded by a coral reef, which is 4 miles long in an east and west direction and nearly 2 miles broad. The edge of this reef is steep to and nearly dry, and may be distinguished by the discoloration of the water. The weather side of the reef always breaks. At about 400 yards within the edge are narrow ridges of dry coral, which on the northeastern side have trees and bushes grow- ing on them. Pari, the largest and most eastern of the group, .is 1^ miles in length. It is thickly wooded and inhabited by a few fishermen, whose village may be recognized by the coconut trees. The other JONG ^AMSTEEDAM ISLAND. 123 islets, named Kongsi, Kampung, Burung, and Tikus, are thickly wooded, but small, and lie on the reef westward of Pari. Westward of Tikus is a patch of coral with brushwood growing on it, not far from the western extreme of the main reef. Jong, half a mile eastward of Agenieten Islands Eeef , is 300 yards in extent, with a patch of coral sand always above water, which may usually be seen at the distance of 2 miles. The edge of the reef is steep to, with depths of 20 to 25 fathoms around it. A reef of 3 fathoms, 200 yards in extent, is east-northeast 200 yards from Jong Eeef, with depths of 20 fathoms around. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is on the southeast side of this 3-f athom reef. Currents, in the western channels to Batavia, are chiefly caused by and run with the monsoons, the tidal streams being weak. The greatest strength, about 2 miles an hour, will be found between Mid- delburg Island and Untung Java Reef. [Note. — This completes the description of the islands and dangers in the western approaches to Batavia, directions for which will fol- low the description of Batavia Bay and road, p. 130.] Batavia Hoads are between Untung Java Point, on the west, and Kerawang Point on the east, a distance of about 20 miles and about 9 miles in depth from north to south, between Edam Island and Batavia. In the bay are several islets covered with trees and en- circled by reefs, and many shoals, the most dangerous being marked by buoys. The depths decrease gradually from 14 or 15 fathoms near Edam Island to 3 fathoms at about 1 mile from the shore. The bot- tom is mud, mixed with sand near the reefs, and also the shore. The shore of the bay, fronting Batavia is a muddy marsh from 1 to IJ miles in width, extending many miles, and interspersed with shallow streams, some of which have been converted into canals navi- gable for boats. Southward of the sea coast marshes, for 5 or 6 miles east and west of the town, are low -lying lands, rice fields, native gardens, etc., intersected by canals. Islets and Reefs. — Middelburg Island and the islets and dangers westward of it have been described with the Inner and Outer Chan- nels. The dangers eastward of Middleburg Island will next be dealt with. Shore bank. — From the buoy marking the north extreme of Untung Java Eeef, south side of Inner Channel, the mud bank within a depth of 3 fathoms, fronting the shore, trends southeastward, grad- ually narrowing until abreast Onrast, where it is distant about 800 yards; thence it increases its distance to about three-quarters of a mile from the shore toward Batavia and the harbor at Tanjong Priok. Amsterdam Island (Untung Java) , on the north side of Inner Channel is separated from Middleburg Island by a. passage 300 yards 124 FEOM SUNDA STKAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATA^IA. in breadth between the projecting reefs, with 7 to 9 fathoms, -and a patch of 3J fathoms near the center. The island is low, covered with trees, inhabited by a few fishermen, and, except on the south side, surrounded by a reef, which in places extends to the distance of 300 yards. A small landing pier has been constructed at the southeast point. Schiedam Island (Ubi Kechil) is small, about 200 yards in extent. The reef around extends northward and eastward 200 yards, but on the west side for only a short distance. Rotterdam Island (Ubi Besar) is 400 yards in length and covered with trees. A coral reef surrounds the island and extends in places to the distance of 200 yards, with 9 to 10 fathoms close-to. Ubi Rock, with a depth of 1^ fathoms, lies 91°, distant 600 yards from the east point of Rotterdam Island. Buoy. — ^On its northeast side is a white conical buoy with staff and ball, marking the west side of Middle Channel. A reef, about 600 yards in extent, with a least depth of 1^ feet, is about 600 yards 154° of Rotterdam Island, and 2 fathoms 600 yards 110° from the south point of the island. Detached patches are close off its east and west extremes. A similar cluster of rocks with IJ fathoms least water and steep-to, lies nearly midway between Rot- terdam and Kerkhof Islands, with the former bearing 324° and the latter 199°. There is also a depth of 2| fathoms with Kerkhof Island, bearing 171°, distant 1,100 yards. Kerkhof Island, 1^ miles southward of Rotterdam, is about 200 yards in extent and covered with trees. The island stands on the western edge of a reef which extends nearly 400 yards northward and eastward of it. A patch of 3 fathoms lies 241°, about 600 yards from the middle of the west side of the islet, and a small head of 1 fathom nearly 600 yards 179° of the northwest extreme. Tengnagel, a rock of small extent, with 3 fathoms water and 7 fathoms close-to, is 1 mile, 359°, from Oncrust Island, with Kerkhof Island bearing 129°. De Steen (Pulo Kelor), a small coral reef of 2| fathoms, and 5 fathoms, niud, around, lies with the northwest point of Onrust Island bearing 147°, about 800 yards. Between De Steen and Kerkhof Island are several isolated rocks. A 3-fathom patch lies 500 yards northward of De Steen. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is moored off the south side of De Steen. Mathilde Rock (Karang Perut), a small patch of 1 fathom, 900 yards, 277°, from De Steen Rock, and nearly 400 yards off the edge of the shore mud bank. ONKUST ISLAND PURMEEEND BANK. 125 Onrust Island, on the western side of the bay, is about 400 yards in extent. On the north and east sides a reef extends 200 yards, but the south and southwest sides are clear. A shoal of 3 fathoms lies 900 yards, 268°, from the north extreme of Onrust. KUiiper Island is a small island close southward of Onrust. It has a long mole extending from its north side in the direction of that island., A reef extends from its eastern side to the distance of 400 yards, and from the west side beyond the mole for about 200 yards ; the southwest point is clear. Close off the edge of the reef extending eastward of Kuiper Island is a patch of 1 fathom. Buoys and beacon. — A black beacon, with triangular topmark, marks the west side of the reef off Kuiper Island, but southwestward of it for a short distance there is but 3 fathoms of water. A black can buoy is moored in 3 fathoms water on the eastern edge of the shoal water extending off Benteng, to the westward of Kuiper Island. A black can bouy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is moored in 4| fathoms southeastward of Kuiper Island, and a white conical buoy, surmounted by a ball, is moored in 5 fathoms 600 yards southward of the island. Jambatan, a small patch of 2| fathoms, with about 4 fathoms around, lies 201°, distant 900 yards from Kuiper Island. Beigersdaal Shoal, of 2 fathoms, with 5 and 6 fathoms, close-to, lies 1| miles, 152°. from the south end of Kuiper Reef. Buoy. — Its northeast side is marked by a white buoy with staff and ball. Purmerend Island is about 400 yards across, and covered with tall trees. This island, except at its southwest point, is encircled by a reef, which on the east side extends to the distance of 400 yards; at 100 yards eastward of the reef is an isolated patch of 4 feet. Purmerend Shoal, with a least depth of 1 fathom, is nearly 600 yards in length, and lies with the south point of Purmerend Island, bearing 326°, distant 800 yards. Buoys. — A conical buoy, with black and white bands, and staff and ball, lies northeastward of a patch of 1^ fathoms off the north- east side of Purmerend Shoal, and a black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, on the southwestern end of the shoal. Purmerend Bank is 400 yards in diameter, with a least depth of 1^ feet and 6 to 9 fathoms close-to. It lies nearly in the fairway of Middle Channel, with the center of Purmerend Island bearing nearly 270°, and distant If miles. Buoys. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, marks the southwest side of Purmerend Bank, and a white buoy, with staff and ball, its northeast side. 126 PKOM SUNDA STEAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Haarlem Island, on the northern side of the Middle Channel, lies 1| miles northeastward of Eotterdam Island, is 300 yards in extent, covered with trees, and encircled by a reef, which is steep-to, extending (as in the case with all these islands, farthest from the east side) to about 200 yards. A patch of ^ fathoms is 400 yards northeast of the island. Monnikendain Reef is about 400 yards in extent, and steep-to, with a patch of sand which dries at low water. It lies with the center of Haarlem Island bearing 281°, distant 1 mile. Buoy. — A white buoy, with staff and ball, is on the northeast side. Hoorn Island is about 1^ miles southeast of Haarlem Island. Hoorn Island is about 600 yards in length and covered with tall trees. It stands on a reef which on the northeast side extends to the distance *of nearly 200 yards, with 10 to 11 fathoms close-to. The south point of the island is clear. AyerBiOck, of 6 feet, is 276°, distant 700 yards from the north- west point of Hoorn Island. Buoy. — ^A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is moored on the west side of Ayer Eock. Northern approach. — Edam Island, the largest island in the bay, is between the outer channel route from the westward and the approach to Batavia from northward and eastward. It is about 700 yards is diameter, covered with tall trees, and encircled by a reef which on the north and east sides extends to the distance of 200 yards. Near the edge of the reef are depths of 14 to 20 fathoms. Light. — From an iron tower, painted red, with a white stone dwelling house, 190 feet high, on the west point of Edam Island is exhibited at an elevation of 182 feet above high water, a flashing white light, which is visible in clear weather from a distance of 19 miles. Edam Reef, about 400 yards in diameter, and with a sand bank, dry at low water on its southern part, is steep-to, with 16 to 18 fath- oms at a short distance. The sand bank lies with Edam lighthouse bearing 187°, distant 1,200 yards. Buoy. — A buoy, colored in black and white bands, with staff and ball, is on the north side of the reef. Wassa-u Bank or Keroya Reef, about 250 yards in extent, with a depth of If fathoms, and from 15 to 17 fathoms, mud and shell, around, is with Edam lighthouse betiring 170°, distant 8f miles, and Dapur Island 218°. The reef is marked by discolored water, which at times may be visible half a mile. Clearing mark. — The whole of Alkmaar Island, open eastward of Edam Island, leads eastward of Nassau Bank and also of the reefs about to be mentioned. Alkmaar, open westward of Edam Island, leads westward of Nassau Bank, but near Jawiel Eeef. ALKMAAE PIPA EEEF. 127 Reefs. — The following small coral patches are southward and westward of Nassau Bank, but, with the exception of Jawiel Keef, may scarcely be considered dangers. They are all steep-to, with depths of 15 to 20 fathoms at a short distance. Jawiel Eeef, 100 yards in extent, Avith a depth of 3| fathoms, lies 194°, distant 1^ miles nearly from Nassau Bank. Jolo Eeef, with 7 fathoms water, is 700 yards westward of Jawiel. Duku, two patches, of 8| and 9f fathoms, are about 2 miles west- ward of Nassau Bank. Babur, of 7 fathoms, 2| miles 259° from Nassau Bank. Jana, of 7 fathoms, 261°, 6 J miles from Nassau Bank. Susuh, of 9 fathoms, with Edam Island Ijighthouse bearing 186°, distant 3| miles. Telewiwi, a patch of 11 fathoms, lies 600 yards, northeastward of Susuh. Alkmaar, 1^ miles southward of Edam Island, is about 260 yards in length covered with trees, and encircled by a reef which on its northeast side extends to the distance of 200 yards, with a depth of 13 fathoms close-to. Enkhuizen is similar to Alkmaar; the encircling reef extends about 250 yards northward, with about 11 fathoms close-to. Leiden, 1^ miles southeastward of Enkhuizen, is about 450 yards in length, covered with bushes, and the reef extends 200 yards to the southwestward and 500 yards eastward of it. On the eastern part of the reef is a sand bank, which dries. A rock of 1^ fathoms (Amstel Shoal) lies just southward of the east point of the reef. Near the edge of the reef the depths are from 10 to 11 fathoms. Neptunus Reef is nearly 600 yards in extent, with a least depth of IJ feet, and lies 2J miles southwestward of Leiden. Buoys. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, marks the northwest extreme, and a buoy with black and white horizontal stripes and staff and ball marks the southeast extreme of Neptunus Eeef. Rynlands Reef is the westernmost of the several isolated shoals fronting the shore between Batavia and Tanjong Priok, and forming the northern limit of Old Eoad anchorage, with depths of about 7 fathoms around. It is a small coral patch of 2^ fathoms, and lies 1^ miles southwestward. of Neptunus Eeef. Buoy. — There is a red buoy, with staff and ball, on the northeast side of the reef. Pipa Reef, a small patch of 2| fathoms, lies 1 mile 95° from Eynlands Shoal. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, is on the west side of Pipa Eeef. 128 FROM. SUNDA STEAIT NORTHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Pasop is a small patch of 2 fathoms, 13°, distant 400 yards from Pipa Eeef . Buoy. — ^A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, marks its north side. Weerstuk Shoal, which is usually marked by breakers, is about 500 yards in extent, with a least depth of If feet. Its center lies 103°, distant nearly 1 mile from Pasop. Buoys. — Buoys, with black and white bands and staff and ball, mark the north and south extremes of the reef. Vader Smit Shoal is a coral reef 500 yards in diameter, with its middle portion always above water. It lies about 1^ miles 71° of Neerstuk and If miles 295° from the entrance to Tanjong Priok Harbor. Two patches of 7 feet and 11 feet lie about 500 yards to the northwestward of Vader Smit Shoal. Buoys. — The northeast and south sides of Vader Smit Shoal are marked by buoys with black and white bands and staff and ball. Van Dorth Shoal is a small patch of 2f fathoms, about 1 mile eastward of Vader Smit Shoal and three-quarters of a mile 330° from the entrance to Tanjong Priok Harbor. Buoy. — Its northeast side is marked by a conical buoy with ball top mark painted with black and white horizontal stripes. Telegraaf Reef, with a depth of 2| fathoms over it, is situated 1,300 yards to the southeastward of Vader Smit Shoal. Buoy. — A spherical buoy, with red and black bands, and sur- mounted by a cross, is moored on the eastern side of the reef. Priok (or Periuk) Rocks are five patches of coral, from half a mile to about 1 mile westward of Tanjong Priok Harbor, between the depths of 3 and 5 fathoms. The outer patches have from 2^ to 3 fathoms and the inner from 1^ to 2^ fathoms. There are several rocky places off the shore within the depth of 3 fathoms. Light buoys. — A buoy showing a flashing red light is moored 1,720 yards 326° from eastern Tanjong Priok light; another buoy, showing a flashing white light, is 1,035 yards 68° from same light. These buoys are experimental. A black conical buoy is moored 980 yards 60° from light on eastern breakwater. Brunda is a small coral reef of 3| fathoms, 73°, distant 2-| miles from the entrance to Tanjong Priok Harbor. Buoy. — A black can buoy, surmounted by a truncated cone, marks the south side of Brunda Reef. St. Nicolas Shoal, of 4| fathoms, is half a mile, 330°, from Brunda Reef, with a depth of 7 fathoms around it. Eastward of this reef the bay is clear of dangers, seaward of the 5-fathom line. Coast. — -From Tanjong Priok Harbor the low shore runs in an east-by-north direction for 8 miles and then turns abruptly to the northward for 8 miles to Kerawang Point. BATAVIA EOAD AND TIDES. 129 Batavia Old Boad is southward of the line joining the red buoy on Rynlands Eeef and the black buoy of Neptunus Reef and between the bearings of Rynlands buoy 10° and Neptunus buoy 348°. The usual anchorage is 5 to G fathoms, mud, about 1 mile from the canal entrance. Although in the western monsoon much sea comes in and vessels roll considerably, the holding ground is good and there is little danger of dragging. It is not usual to moor, and as the anchors sink deeply into the soft bottom they should be occasionally lifted. When the state of the sea at the canal pierheads renders it unsafe for boats and lighters to pass in or out a blue flag is flown on the lookout at Batavia. Boats should not be allowed to remain in the canal longer than absolutely necessary, for the swampy nature of the shore and the mud dredged up in the river emit effluvia, which often produce fever of an infectious type. Batavia New Bead, northward of Tanjong Priok Harbor, is bounded east and west by lines running 179° from the buoys on Brunda and Vader Smit Shoal, and northward by lines 292° from Brunda and CG° from Vader Smit Shoal. The anchorage is in 5^ to 7 fathoms; good holding ground of mud. Lights. — An occulting white light, and visible from a distance of 13 miles, is exhibited at an elevation of 5G feet above high water from a stone tower, with red roof, 02 feet in height, situated at a distance of 77C yards within the west pierhead of Batavia Canal. On the outer extreme of this pier is exhibited from a wooden post a fixed white light, visible 2 miles. From a white iron frame on the head of the western breakwater of Tanjong Priok Harbor is exhibited a fixed white light at an elevation of 42 feet and visible from a distance of 11 miles. From a similar frame on the head of the eastern breakwater is ex- hibited an occulting white light, visible from a distance of 11 miles. Tides. — During the two seasons of the monsoons there is only one high and one low water in the 24 hours. In the middle of June it is high water about 10 p. m. and low water about 10 a. m. ; and, being earlier each succeeding month, in December these conditions are reversed, and it is low water about 10 p. m. and high water about 10 a. m. In these two months occur the highest and lowest tides of the year, the spi-ing range being 3^ feet. The greatest rise registered is 4 feet and the least 1 foot. In August a second tide begins to appear, and about September 20 tliei-e are two tides of nearly equal range. Before this date the even- ing tide is higher than the morning; afterwards the morning tide is the greater. In like manner, in the early months of the year the 0U045— 15 ^9 130 FBOM SUNDA STEAIT NORTHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. second tide gradually shows, and the two a:re equal in March; the morning tide being greater before and the evening tide after the time of equal range. At the island of Edam it is high water half an hour earlier than in Batavia Eoads. Directions — Inner or Dutch. Channel — By day. — Having rounded St. Nicolas Point, distant about 2 miles, a course about 99° will lead to the entrance of Inner Channel (usually taken by steamers and sailing vessels with a fair wind), southward of Struis- vogel Eocks, Kombuis and Middelburg Islands. In clear weather and under favorable circumstances the reefs with a less depth than 3 fathoms will be seen by the discoloration of the water, and along the coast fishing stakes in many places extend out to depths of 4 or 5 fathoms and occasionally into the channels. From abreast Babi Island the high trees just eastward of Tanara will be seen, and soon afterwards Kombuis and Menscheneter Islands, the tall tree on Kaik Point, and Mauk wood, Imown as False Men- scheneter, will come in sight. Struisvogel Eocks separate Inner from Outer Channel, and the black buoy marking the southern rock must be left on the port hand. In mid-channel abreast the buoy the depth is from 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, deepening toward the rocks. Thence to Middleburg Island the course is about 106°, northward of the white buoy on Menscheneter Eeef and southward of all the black buoys, the depth decreasing to 10 and 9 fathoms. Abreast Middelburg Island, the channel between the black buoy and beacon marking the island reef and the white buoy on Untung Java Eeef, which is steep-to, is but 700 yards wide, with a depth of about 10 fathoms in mid-channel. From abreast Middleburg Beacon, bearing 1°, the course is eastward toward Haarlem Island, and southeastward between Ubi Eock white buoy on the west and Ayer Eock black buoy on the east. When Hoorn Island is 0° the course will be 115°, toward Tanjong Priok Harbor, northward of the shoals of Vader Smit'and Van Dorth. Outer Channel is northward of Struisvogel Eocks, Kombuis and Middelburg Islands, and southward of Hoorn and Agenieten Islands ; thence northward of Dapur Island and between other islands in Batavia Bay to Old Eoad or to Tanjong Priok Harbor. On approaching Struisvogel Eocks the white buoy marking the northern rock must be left to the southward. Here the channel between it and Hoorn Islands is 5 miles wide, with a depth of about 30 fathoms, mud, which becomes mixed with sand toward the islands and rocks. If approaching Outer Channel from northward of Babi Island, Payung Island must be kept well open southward of Hoorn Islands, to avoid Kerbou Shoal and the foul ground westward of those islands. DIRECTIONS — ^BATAVIA KOADS. 131 From a position 1 mile north of Struisvogel Buoy the course is parallel to Inner Channel, or 106° (avoiding Karang Laut of 3^ fathoms, by keeping Little Kombuis open northward of Great Kombuis), passing about 1^ miles northward of Great Kombuis, where the depth is about 15 fathoms, and southward of Tandul Reef black buoy. From close southward of Tandul buoy the red buoy on Menyumbang may be steered for, passing about 400 yards soutli. This avoids the patches of 4i fathoms lying in the fairway; or, tak- ing the south side of the channel, pass northward of Lekapo and half a mile northward of Sau Eeef white buoys, keeping (when abreast the latter) the north side of Great Kombuis bearing about 263°, astern. This bearing will lead northward of the white buoy northeast of Dapur Island. Vessels of great draft, to avoid the shallow places northward of Middelburg Island, should take the deep channel, 1 mile wide and 25 to 30 fathoms deep, southward of Agenieten Islands Reef (always visible by discoloration of the water) , and northward of the white buoys on Delima and Panjang di Laut Reefs, which are on the north side of the Middle Grounds. When eastward of the latter dangers a course may be steered northward of Dapur Island. From 1 mile northeast of Dapur Island it is 8 miles 120° to mid- way between Alkmaar and Enkhuizen Islands ; thence to New Roafi or Tanjong Priok Harbor. Bound for Old Road, when past Middle Grounds, vessels may steer southeastward, west of Dapur Island, and through Middle Channel between Haarlem and Hoorn Islands on the east, and Rotterdam Island and Purmerend Bank on the west. At night, from westward, the channel between Payung and Age- nieten Islands should be taken. Passing half a mile southward of Babi Island, bring the light 276°, and on that bearing steer 96° until Payung light is 31°. The course thence is about 1 mile south of the light, 68°, and steer for Edam Island light when it bears 126°. Old Road may be steered for when the occulting light of Batavia Canal bears 180°. If bound for Tanjong Priok Harbor, pass a mile west of Edam Island, and when the light is 90° steer 114° between Edam and Alkmaar Islands, and for the harbor when the entrance lights bear 180°. Working in. — From Babi Island to as far eastward as Little Kombuis vessels working in may stand across both Inner and Outer Channels, as the principal dangers are all buoyed. In Inner Channel there is good anchorage everywhere, and vessels should anchor at dusk, but in Outer Channel the water is deep. Standing toward Pontang Point, the mud bank is steep-to, and the north side of Panjang Island should not bear westward of 266° until the east point of Babi is 341°. Stretching into the bight beyond this. 132 FEOM SUNDA STBAIT NOETHWAED AND TO BATAVIA. Pontang Point may be kept westward of 27G° until the tree chimp eastward of Tanara is westward of 191°, as the north and northeast sides of Tanara Bank are steep-to, and tlie lead gives no warning of approach. Eastward of it stand into the bight according to draft, avoiding the patches dry at low water, extending about three-quarters of a mile northward of Changkir Islet, by keeping Kaik Point south- ward of 90°. Menscheneter Keef may be approached on its west side \y the lead, but the north point (marked by a white buoy) and the fiasti side are steep-to, as is also the extreme of Point Untung Java Keef. Between Points Kaik and Untung Java the bank is shelving, but standing into the western portion of the bight, where the 5- fathom line is close to the shallow reefs, the center of Menscheneter Island must be kept westward of 299°. To the northward the clian- Hcl is clear between Struisvogel Rocks and Great Kombuis, with the axception of Tongara Rock, marked by a red buoy, and Karang Laut ©f Si fathoms, not marked. Between Great and Little Kombuis tliere is another good channel, and also eastward of the latter, for \jhich the chart is the best guide. Toward Hoorn Islands, Paynng Island should be kept well open southward of Great Tidimg, to avoid the reefs westward of it. The reefs around Payung and Agenieten Islands will be seen by discolora- tion of the water. Eastward of Little Kombuis, vessels should keep to the Outer Channels, avoiding the neighborhood of the dangerous shoals lying between INIiddleburg Island and Sau Reef buoy, and working up between the buoys marking the channels, or northward ef Agenieten Islands, eastward of which there is little danger with wrdinai-y caution in reaching the roadstead. ITorthern Channels. — From Banka Strait, when past North Watcher, the course is eastward of the Thousand Islands, and a mile east or west of South Watcher; thence for Edam Island, avoiding Kassau Bank by keeping Alkmaar Island open westward of Edam. The patches westward and southward of Karang Keroya lie in this Boute, but no other shoal water is believed to e.\ist. When a mile west of Edam Island a direct course can be steered for Old Road, or Tanjong Priok Harbor. By night, with North Watcher light bearing 315°, steer 135° mntil Edam Island light is sighted bearing about 180°. Bring it to bear 18G° and steer in on that bearing, which leads 2i miles eastward of Nassau Bank; and, from a mile east of Edam Island, the entrance lights of Tanjong Priok Harbor Avill bear 171°, distant 7.5 miles. Proceeding to Old Road, when the occulting light of Batavia Canal is seen, bring it to bear 179°, and steer directly for the anchorage. From eastward pass 2 miles north of Kerawang Point by steering for Edam Island bearing 251°, and for Tanjong Priok when the harbor entrance is 211° TANJONG PKIOK — PILOTS." 133 By night the light of Edam Island, 251°, will lead northward of Point Kerawang Bank, and the occulting light of Batavia, bearing 224°, shoidd be steered for until Tanjong Priok Harbor ligiits are observed. For Old Road, pass between Edam and Alkmaar Islands, and for the anchorage when Batavia light bears 179°. Tanjong Priok (Periuk) Harbor. — ^The artificial harbor and port of Batavia, rendered necessary by the delays of loading and discharging in the open roadstead and by the urgency of modern steam traffic, was commenced on May 1, 1877, and completed on March 15, 1887, at a cost of $7,523,280. The outer harbor is inclosed by two stone breakwaters, the eastern being C,150 feet long and the western 5,5G0 feet. The breadth of the harbor is' from 2,000 feet near the north end to 3,G0U feet at the south end. The width of entrance between the heads is 525 feet. Lines of mooring buoys are placed on either side of the harbor, leaving in the center a channel to the inner harbor; to these buoys vessels secure after discharging. The depth near the entrance is 28 feet and 24 feet over other parts. The dock basin in the southwest part of the harbor is 650 feet long, 130 feet broad, and 24^ feet deep. On the eastern outer head of the basin is a 25-ton crane. The inner harbor, excavated into the land, is 3,500 feet long . fathoms water over it, and the southern one, 120 feet above high water, is fronted by a sandy beach. Eocks above water lie about 200 yards to the southward, and a rock under water about 400 yards southeast- ward of the islet. A bank extends about half a mile from the north- ern side of the islands. There is a channel about 600 yards wide, with depths of from G to 7 fathoms, between Dapur Islands and point; thence to Kangka Point there are several white rocks lying close to the shore. Light. — On the southwest side of the southernmost islet an iron framework, 44 feet in height, attached to a stone dwelling painted white, exhibits, at an elevation of 128 feet above high water, a flash- ing white light. It should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 17 miles. Banks. — The bottom oif the south end of Banka is very irregular and composed of long sand ridges, with deep water over a muddy bottom between. A long ridge, the western end of which lies south- east by south, distant IJ miles from Dapur Islands, extends about 5 miles to the eastward, and has several patches of 3^ fathoms over a sandy ground. At about 3^ miles, east by south, of the eastern extreme of this ridge, and separated, by deeper water, is a bank with depths of 4 and 152 BANKA STEAIT. 44 fathoms, over coral and sand, extending in an easterly direction for 2 J miles. It appears to be a continuation of Dapur Bank, anrl from its shoalest part Tanjong Baginda bears 36°, distant 7 miles. An isolated patch of 5 fathoms lies midway between these ridges, and others will be seen on the charts more in the offing. Overfalls. — At full and change tidal rips and overfalls occur, caused by the meeting of the ebb stream from Banka and Gaspar Straits over an uneven bottom. Tobo Ali Bay. — Nangka Point, the southeast extreme of Tobo Ali Baj', lies 2 miles northwest from Dapur Point, and the coast be- tween is fronted by rocks extending about half a mile offshore. Tobo Ali Lama, a hill of pyramidal form, 512 feet above high water, is situated 1^ miles eastward of Nangka Point. The 3-fathom edge of the mud bank, nearly 1 mile off Nangka Point, is steep-to. The- point may easily be distinguished by a round hillock over it, 264 feet above high water, and also by the land receding, forming Tcbo Ali Bay, which, to Labu Point, is 11 miles in width. The shore of the bay is low and fringed at high water with sandy beaches Avithin the mud flat. Tobo Ali Point, 213 feet above high water, situated in the middle of the bay, and distant 6| miles northwestward from Nangka Point, has several white rocks near it and a ccnspicuous single tree on its summit. Tcbo Ali fort, with its red-roofed barracks, stands half a mile southeast of Tobo Ali Point, upon a mound 60 feet above high water, at the south point of entrance of a small river. A Dutch adminis- trator resides here and a small military force garrisons the fort. There is also a hospital. At low water the river dries to a distance of 600 yards from its mouth. Between Nangka Point and Tcbo Ali Point the 3-fathom contour line is 2 miles from the coast, but facing the bight westward of Tobo Ali Point it is nearly 3| miles oft'. Sabang village is situated close to the fort, and contains a mixed population of about 600 Malays and Chinese. Light. — On a white wooden frame 21 feet high is shown a fixed red light visible 8 miles. This light is on point 275 yards west of flagstaff. Supplies. — Water and wood may be obtained here; the former from the river, or from a small stream half a mile eastward of it, from half flood to half ebb. Medical assistance may be obtained here by application to the Dutch authorities. Hills — Aspect. — Mount St. Paul, 5 miles within Tobo Ali Point, rises with a gradual acclivity on its southeastern shoulder to a peak 990 feet above high water, with two others adjoining of nearly PXJNI ISLET SAIL TEEB. 153 the same elevaticn. The western peak terminates rather abruptly in a lower spur in the direction of Gadcng Peak. When westward of Puni Islet, owing to a projecting spur from the middle peak, the eastern peak of St. Paul is hidden, and the western one then appears the highest, and forms, with the northwest brow, a saddle hill. Gadcng Peak is pyramidal, 593 feet above high water, and lies nearly 2^ miles westward from Mount St. Paul. It is a good land- mark. Gcsrng Point lies 4 miles northwestward of Tobo Ali Point, the land between forming a deep bight with mangrove trees. A stream falls into the sea on the north side of the point. Fr( m Gcscng Point to Labu Point the land is more elevated, the highest part being 250 feet above high water, with rocky points and sandy beaches, between which are numerous rocks close to the shore. Funi Islst, lying midway between Gosong and Labu Points, is small, 47 feet above high water, and conspicuous from the Vi'hite granite recks forming its base, and other rocks of a similar appear- ance near it. Labu Point, 255 feet above high water, and distant 12 miles northwestward from Nangka Point, may be considered as the western e.^:treme of Tobo Ali Bay. A hill, 250 feet above high water, lies about 1 mile eastward of it, and another, about the same height, the same distance northward. This point from the southeastward presents a shelving appearance, with large white rocks extending from it. From the westward these rocks have the appearance of a village, from the contrast they offer to the green verdure of the point. The anchorage in Tobo Ali Bay is off the fort in 4 fathoms water over mud, with Tobo Ali Lama Peak bearing 118° and Gadong Peak in line with the fort 41°. Small craft may approach on the latter, bearing nearer the shore as the soundings decrease regularly. This latter bearing also leads into the anchorage from Stanton Chan- nel, southward of the banks. In southerly and southwesterly winds there is a heavy swell here, which makes landing difficult. Dawon Point is situated 7 miles northwestward from Labu Point, the shore between being low and covered with mangroves. A range of hillocks extends parallel to the coast, the highest of which is 230 feet above high water. There are also several streams. The land at Dawon Point attains a greater elevation and is faced with sandy beaches and rocky points. At 4^ miles within the point is a round wooded hill, 315 feet above high water. Sail Tree. — Close to the coast, 2 miles northward from Labu Point, is a clump of trees, one of which (Sail tree) is or was a con- spicuous square tree> 167 feet high, there being no others of the same elevation near it. 154 BANKA STEAIX. Pulo Dawon, 30 feet in height, is one of a cluster of rocks lying off Dawon Point, nearly all of which are covered at high water. Light. — On Pulo Dawon, from an iron framework 44 feet in height, attached to a stone dwelling, painted white, an occulting white light is exhibited at an elevation of 44 feet above high water and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. This light is unwatched. Panjang Hill rises close to the coast between Dawon and Banka Points. When seen from the southeastward it shows as a wedge, with its greatest elevation, 316 feet above high water, on the eastern end. From the northwestward it appears as a long hill rising to a peak near its center. The coast between Panjang Hill and Banka Point is low and covered with mangroves, off which there are several ledges of rocks. Water. — ^A stream of fresh water runs close to the north side of this hill. Banka Point and Hill. — Banka Point is about CO feet above high water, and at 1^ miles northward of it is Banka Hill, which from the southeastward appears of similar shape to Panjang Hill, but differs in having the highest part on its western extremity. From the northwestward it shows with a flat top and is about 256 feet above high water. Pulo Besar, nearly connected with Banlca Point by rocks, is one- third of a mile in extent. Light. — On the center of Pulo Besar an iron framework tower 202 feet in height, exhibits, at an elevation of 196 feet above high water a flashing white light ; it should be visible from a distance of 20 miles in clear weather, but is obscured by Lalari Point when bear- ing southward of 107°. The keeper's dwelling is stone, the lower half painted white and upper half brown. Coast, — From the foot of Banka Hill the coast trends westward to Lalari Point; is marshy and covered with mangrove trees, and assumes the usual irregular outline of such coasts. The trees upon Pudi Point, nearly midway, form two mounds, with a small gap between them. Mamelon Hummock, standing by itself 3 miles northward of Pudi Point, is a small round hill 256 feet above high water. Lalari (Pangong) Point, 75 feet above high water, is covered with trees, and presents a bold bluff appearance on all bearings in the strait, and has a clean sandy flat near it. Anchorage. — Good anchorage may be obtained in about 7 fathoms water, over mud, /with .Lalari JPpint bearing 130° and Brani Point 354°. MUD BANK COPPER EOCKS. 155 Mud bank. — A mud bank fronts the whole coast betAveen Dapnr and Lalari Points. The 3-f athom contour line may be considered to mark its edge, which, in mcst places, shoals very quickly within that line. It extends from a half a mile to 1 mile off the points, from 2 to 3 miles off the bights, and being "steep-to" should not be ap- proached within a depth of 10 fathoms. Between Tobo Ali and Labu Points are several narrow isolated banks about 2 miles in length, with depths of from 2 to 3 fathoms, lying parallel to and nearly midway between the shore mud bank and the sand bank forming the eastern limit of Stanton Channel. Mentigi Point (Casuarina), 123 feet above high Avater, lies nearly midway between Lalari and Brani Points. The coast between is low, for the first part marshy, and has sandy beaches at high-water mark; several hills, from 300 to 400 feet above high water, are situated from 3 to 4 miles inland. The mouth of the Kubal River, about three-quarters of a mile northward of the point, is dry at low water at its entrance, but inside there is a depth of 2 fathoms. Brani Point, 185 feet above high water and covered with trees, is 11 miles northward of Lalari Point, and the termination of a spur from the Parmasang Eange. One mile east-southeastward of the point a conical peak, 516 feet above high water, shows very prominently both from the northward and southward. Karang Tambaga (Copper Rocks) are three small rocks lying east and west of each other, about 200 yards in extent. The highest and westernmost rock is aibout 4 feet above high water, with Brani Point bearing 7°, distant 3 miles. A steep, hard bank, about half a mile in breadth, extends nearly half a mile northward of the group and 2J miles to the southward, and has a least depth of about 2 feet over it ; between it and the mud bank fronting the Banka coast are depths of from 5 to 9 fathoms. Patches of coral and sand, about 200 yards apart, with 1^ fathoms least water over them, and 3 fathoms close-to, lie 1^^ miles, west-north- west, from these rocks, but they are all within the 10-fathoms contour line, inside which depth vessels should not go when passing them. In approaching them the depths shoal suddenly from 20 to 10 fathoms. From the middle patch, with a depth of 2 fathoms, Karang Tam- baga appear nearly in line with Sharp Peak, 330 feet above high water, south of Bukit Limmaun, bearing east-southeast; and the apex of Eiah Hill, G57 feet above high water, is just open westward of a white rock off Tanjong Bedaau 18°. A rocky bank, about a mile in length in an east and west direction, and half a mile in breadth, having 7 to 9 fathoms water over it. and 14 to 20 fathoms close-to all around, lies west-northwest of the shoal patches just mentioned. 156 BANKA STRAIT. Light bttoy. — A buoy, painted black and exhibiting an occulting white light, is moored off the western edge of the 2-fathoms patches, and from it Second Point bears 2C8°, distant 4iJ miles. Clearing mark. — Lalari Point, bearing 138°, leads westward of Karang Tambaga, of the shoal patches, and also just to the westward of the rocky bank. Water may be procured from Sungi Bulan, a stream about 2 miles east-northeastward of Karang Tambaga, from half flood to half ebb, after which the mud prevents a boat approaching near the shore. Parmasang Range is a chain of hills extending from Brani Point in a northeast direction for nearly 7 miles. The western sum- mit rises to an elevation of 1,008 feet above high water. Tanjongj Beda&u, a bold headland 3 miles northward of Brani Point, has a conspicuous white rock, 45 feet above high water, lying immediately off it. Pulo Pemain, a small round island 59 feet above high water, lies on the edge of the mud bank, 2 miles north-northwestward of Tanjong Bedaau. Tanjong Karra, 171 feet above high water, lies 3 miles north- eastward of Tanjong Bedaau; rocks, some above water, extend more than half a mile off this point. Elan Bay is a deep shallow bight, about 9 miles across, in which are the Banka Kota and Slan Kivers; the shores of the bay are marshy and covered with mangroves, with no firm ground, and only near the mouth of the Sungi Banka Kota is there some sandy beach. Slan, the chief town of a district, is municipally governed by the administrator of the tin mines. Here, as at all other chief towns of districts, a small number of Dutch troops are stationed. Mud bank. — The edge of the shore mud bank lies nearly 1 mile off Lalari Point and a little less than half a mile off Tanjong Mentigi and Brani Point. Pulo Pemain stands on its outer edge ; thence the bank, which abreast the middle of Slan Bay is distant 5.5 miles from the shore, assumes somewhat the form of that bay which it fronts, and surrounding Great Nangka Island trends toward Tanjong Tedong, from which it extends a little more than 1 mile. Northward of Karang Tambaga the bank may be approached to a depth of 8 fathoms, as far as 2 miles northward of Pulo Pemain, when vessels may stand into 7 or G fathoms until near Nangka Islands, which should not be approached on the west side within the depth of 12 fathoms. Nangka Islands, three in number, lie about the middle part of the strait, 1.5 to 3.5 miles distant from the coast of Bonka Island, West Nangka being 8 miles eastward of Third Point on the Sumatra coast. Great Nangka, 285 feet above high water, is 1.75 miles in length, in a north and south direction, by IJ miles in breadth; NANGKA ISLANDS. 157 Middle and West Nangka are each about half a mile in length, the former being 125 feet, and the latter, on which is the lighthouse, 203 feet above high water. Great Nangka is nearly half a mile within the edge of the mud bank which extends from the Banka shore. A rock, awash at low water, lies 600 yards west of the north point of the island. From Middle Nangka, which consists of two islands joined by a sand ridge, a bank, with from 2 feet to 3 fathoms water over it, extends in a south-southeast direction for a distance of 1.3 miles. From West Nanka a bank, with from 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, projects southward nearly 1 mile; and south-southeast distant three- quarters of a mile from its extreme is a 3i-fathom patch. A small flat rock, 6 feet above high water, named West Keef , lies 300 yards off the west end of West Nangka; and another, 32 feet above high water, nanaed Tree Eock, lies GOO yards southeastward of Middle Nangka. North Eeef lies 400 yards off the north end of Middle Nangka, with some rocks above water between, the mud bank extending in the same direction about a quarter of a mile beyond. Between the banks which surround the islands are intricate chan- nels from 400 to 800 yards wide, having depths of from 4 to 7 fathoms. Light. — On West Nangka a 12-sided tower 115 feet in height and painted white exhibits, at an elevation of 215 feet above high water, a flashing white light; it should be visible from a distance of 20 miles in clear weather. Water. — There is a watering place on the west side of Great Nangka, where good water may be obtained and with a depth of 3 feet close to the shore. Another and smaller stream runs out on the northeast side; but they are frequently dry during the southeast monsoon, and owing to the mud flats surrounding the islands the watering places are difficult of approach by boats. Anchorage. — The south extreme of Great Nangka, bearing 8.")°, leads about half a mile southward of the bank extending south-south- eastward of Middle Nangka; and Tree Rock, 347°, leads westward of the mud bank off the west side of Great Nangka at nearly the same distance. A vessel can anchor, with both these bearings on, in 5 fathoms water, and be about IJ miles from the watering place. She i=hould, however, approach this position with caution, and not attempt to go closer in. Tides. — During the northwest monsoon it is high water, full and change, at Nangka Islands at 7h. a. m., and the rise is 95 feet. Tidal Streams. — Southward of Nangka Islands the flood stream sets to the' northward and the ebb to the southward. Northward of the islands flood and ebb streams set in the opposite direction. 158 BANKA STEAIT. Many eddies and small races will be met with in the vicinity of these islands, caused by the flood stream from the China Sea meeting the flood from the southward. CoaEt. — Tedong Point, lying about 2 miles northward from Great Nangka, is a conspicuous point 235 feet above high water. A large cluster of rocks, some above water, lie about 1 mile north- westward of the point, at a short distance within the edge of the shore mud bank. The coast from Tedong Point trends northeastward into a bay, at the bottom of which is the Sembilan River, and here the shore is marshy and covered with mangroves; thence it curves northwestward to Penegan Point from which it recedes about 1 mile to the entrance of a small river of that name. The coast line from this river rounds the foot of the higher land sloping down from Mundo Peak and thence to Mundo Point, when it again bends to the northeastward for 2 miles to Sungi Mundo. Pulo Mondong (Meddang) consist of four islands, three of which lie about If miles eastward of Mundo Point, and form the southwestern extreme of Mundo Bay, being joined to the mainland by the mud flat. The largest island is 147 feet, and the western, on which is some brushwood and trees, 40 feet above high water, and named Tree Island. Pulo Mondo (Antu), the northernmost of this group, is 83 feet above high water, and lies about 1^ miles north- eastward of the other islands. Mundo Bay lies between the Sungi Mundo and Tanjong Batu Mensirah ( Jurung-patt) , 240 feet above high water, 8 miles north- westward. The shore of this bay is low and covered with trees which at the entrance of the Sungi Kota Waringin are about 120 feet above high water. The land near Tanjong Batu Mensirah becomes moro elevated, and continues so as far as the entrance of the Sungi Jering. Tanjong Eaja and Sungi Tempelang lie between Tanjong Batu Mensirah and Tanjong Eensang. Close off the coast is Pulo Simon- bong (Sumbayang), 175 feet above high water, wooded and joined to the shore by a mud bank, on which are large rocks at low water. Jering Bay is the deep bight, 8| miles in width, between Tanjong Eensang and Tanjong Padah. At its head is Sungi Jering with Nuir village on the east side of its entrance. Tanjong Padah, 203 feet above high water, is readily recognized, the land on both sides being lower and curving into two bays, giving it a prominent appearance. The coast from Tanjong Eensang to Sunji Jering is high with sandy beaches, but westward of the river it is marshy and covered with mangroves. Tanjong Aniai (Anisi). — Between Tanjong Padah and Tan- jong Puni, about 8 miles apart, there are two bays, each about three- KAEANG SAiMBU MUD BANK. 159 quarters of a mile deep, separated by Tanjong Aniai, having a hum- modi 256 feet high water on it. Tanjong Sukal, 2 miles eastward of Tanjong Puni, has a hill 209 feet above high water and a small stream on its west side. Karang Saribu, a cluster of rocks, some above water, extend 2 miles, 170°, from Tanjong Aniai. Tanjong Puni is low, and the coast line rounds away gradually on either side. Thence to Tanjong Kalian, 11 miles west-northwest- ward, the coast recedes and forms Muntok Bay, about 2 miles deep. Landmarks. — There are several hills from 100 to 600 feet high on the part of the coast just described between Tanjong Tedong and Sungi Mondo. Mundo Peak, 512 feet above high water, eastward of Mondong Islands, and the lighthouse on West Nangka are convenient objects for determining the position of a vessel. At 3^ miles northeastward from Tempelang Eiver entrance is a hill 412 feet, northwestward of which is Tempilang or Bukit Pandan, 583 feet above high water — a useful mark when in this part of the strait. Bukit Asin (Assam), a solitary sharp peak 661 feet above high water, standing by itself 10| miles northward of Tanjong Padah, is also useful as a landmark. Four miles inland between Tanjong Puni and Muntok is Bukit Belu, 772 feet above high water, which serves as a clearing mark for Karang Brom Brom and Amelia Bank; and 2 and 7 miles, respec- tively, northeastward of Bukit Belu and Bukit Panjang and Bukit Batu, 761 and 708 feet above high water. Menumbing Hill rises near the west end of Banka. Its blunt summit, being 1,525 feet above high water, may be seen at a con- siderable distance and serves as a guide in approaching to or depart- ing from the north end of Banka Strait. It f requentl y happens that this hill is the only visible object, especially when a vessel is near the Sumatra shore in 5 or 6 fathoms water. Mud bank. — The edge of the mud bank fronting the shore, with depths of less than 3 f ajthoms, extends a distance of 200 yards off the rocks off Tanjong Tedong and 1 mile beyond the Mondong Islands. It also fills the whole of Jering Bay and extends about 2 miles south- ward of Tanjongs Padah and Puni, whence it follows the curve of the coast line at an average distance of about IJ miles until abreast the point eastward of Muntok, from which it is distant only half a mile. Between Tanjong Tedong and Tanjong Padah the depths decrease regularly toward the shore bank, which may there be approached to depths of 5 or 4 fathoms, except near Mondong Islands, where a vessel should not shoal under 5 fathoms. At Tanjong Padah the 160 BANKA STBAIT. bank begins to get steep-to, and abreast of Karang Saribu there are depths of 9 and 10 fathoms close to its edge. Clearings mark. — Mundo Peak, well open to the southward of Mondong Islands, bearing 95°, leads southward of this bank in SJ to 4 fathoms water as far westward as Tanjong Padah. The bank southward of Tanjong Puni is shallow and steep-to, having from 11 to 16 fathoms water almost close to its edge. Tan- jong Padah, bearing 71°, leads just southeastward of this spit, and Menumbing Hill, 329°, leads just westward of it. Karang Brom Brom is composed of rocks and sand, dry in places at low water, with one or more bushes growing on one spot. It lies 4| miles soiithward from Tanjong Sukal and is a little more than 2 miles in length in an east and west direction and nearly half a mile in width. A small part of the reef on its western side is visible at high water, and here stands a conspicuous tree, forming a gnod mark, from which Menumbing Hill bears 323° ; from the eastern end a sand bank extends to a distance of a mile, with less than 5 fathoms water over it. Clearing mark. — -The highest part of Tanjong Anisi bearing 5° or the highest part of Tanjong Padah bearing 38° leads half a mile eastward of the shoal and Bukit Belu, bearing 353°, leads the same distance westward of it. A channel 1.5 miles wide, having 7 to 14 fathoms water, lies between Karang Brom Brom and the shore mud bank. A sailing vessel may easily be worked through this channel by day, during the westerly monsoon, by taking advantage of the tidal streams, whereas on the coast of Sumatra a strong easterly stream runs with little interruption. It must, however, be borne in mind, when standing toward Tanjong Puni, that the shore bank is steep-to, there being depths of 11 to 16 fathoms close to its edge. Amelia Bank, a small patch of hard ground with 2J fathoms water over it and surrounded by depths of 3^ to 5 fathoms at the southeast extreme of Muntok Bank, is connected to the shallow patches of that bank by a ridge having 4 to 5 fathoms water. From Amelia Bank the western extreme of Karang Brom Brom bears 90°, distant 4J miles. Light buoy. — A buoy, painted red and black in horizontal bands, and exhibiting an occulting white light, is moored near the south- eastern edge of the bank. Clearing mark. — Bukit Belu bearing 358° leads 1 mile eastward of Amelia Bank, and the same hill 29°, leads the same distance west- ward. The dry portion of Karang Brom Brom bearing 80° leads southward of Amelia Bank, which should not be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms. MUNTOK BAilK ^BIXXEX BAXK. 161 Muntok Bank extends from Amelia Bank in a direction nearly parallel to the shore for a distance of lOJ miles, and to within a third of a mile of Karang Haji, off Tanjong Kalian. It is about 2 miles in breadth, composed of hard sand, and has several patches of from 2 to 3 fathoms water and J: or 5 fathoms between, for which see the chart. An isolated patch, with 2^ fathoms water over it, near the west end of the bank, lies with the lighthouse on Tanjong Kalian bearing 9", distant 1^ mUes, from abreast which depths of 5 fathoms may be obtained toward Karang Haji until very close to it, when the water will suddenly deepen from 11 to 20 fathoms. Menumbing Hill, in line with the lighthouse on Tanjong Kalian 39^, leads westward of the 2^-fathom patch, between it and Karank Haji. Working through the strait and standing toward Muntok Bank vessels should not bring the lighthouse on Tanjong Kalian to bear westward of 333° when northward of Amelia Bank. Kaxang Haji, a reef of clay and sand with several black rocks spread over it, lies close to the northwest end of Muntok Bank. The rocks are all covered at high water, but many are visible at half ebb. • The reef is 1 J miles in length in an east and west direction and half a mile in breadth, and from its western and outer extreme Tanjong Ular is in line with Tanjong Bersiap, bearing about 12°, the latter distant about 4 miles. Close-to on the north, west, and south sides are irregular depths of from 16 to 20 fathoms. Clearing marks. — ^Tanjong Ular lighthouse, kept well open west- ward of Tanjong Bereiap, bearing IS", leads westward of this reef. The highest part of ^Menmnbing HiU, in line with Tanjong Kalian lighthouse, 39°, leads eastward of it: and Tanjong Puni, bearing 97°, leads to the southward. A reck, with 2 fathoms water over it. lies about 400 yards northward of Karang Haji. Buoy. — A nun buoy, painted white and surmoimted by a staff and ball, is moored in 4| fathoms water on the northwest edge of Karang Haji. Tanjong Kalian, low and sandy, with some trees behind it. is the southwest extreme of the west end of Banka. About three- quarters of a mile northwestward is Tanjong Brani, with trees about 127 feet high. Light. — ^The lighthouse upon Tanjong Kalian is a stone tower 186 feet in height, with the lower part painted white and upper part red. It exhibits, at an elevation of 170 feet above high water, a flash- ing white light. It should be visible in clear weather from a dis- tance of 19 miles, from the bearing 160° to 287°. A dwelling, painted white, is near the lighthouse. Binnen Bank is a spit of hard sand, with fi-om IJ to 2i fathoms water over it and from 6 to 7 fathoms about 400 yards from its south- 90045—15 ^11 162 BAKKA STKAIT. ernedgfii I extending nearly 2 miles eastward from Tanjong Kalian. Half a mile^eastward of this spit is a S^-fathoms patch. Kalian Ledge is a small reef, with 1 fathom water over it, lying a little more than 1 mile northwestward of Tanjong Kalian. Buoy. — A can buoy, painted black and surmounted by a trun- cated cone, is moored in 4| fathoms water on the south side of Kalian Ledge, and marks the northeast side of Kalian Pass. Kalian Pass, between Tanjong Kalian and Ledge and Karang Haji, is three-quarters of a mile wide, with depths of from 13 to 32 fathoms. This channel is generally used by vessels coming from the northward and proceeding to Muntok Bay, and with a fair wind is preferable for sailing vessels to the passage southward of Karang Haji; but the great depth, bad anchorage, and strong tidal streams render it inadvisable to attempt to work through. Kalian lighthouse, bearing 102°, leads through between Kalian Ledge and Karang Haji. The sandy point upon which the light- house may be passed tolerably close-to. Muntok. — ^At 2 miles eastward of Tanjong Kalian, on the banks of a small ri^er, is the town of Muntok, the capital of Banka Island,' having a fort upon a hill and some stone houses close to the shore, the red roofs of which are visible at a distance. The resident and other Dutch officers have houses on the hill near the fort, most of the native houses being nearer the sea. There are barracks, a hos- pital, and large school for Europeans. The population of Mimtok consisted in 1900 of about 4,420, of which 119 were Europeans, mostly Dutch. In 1905 Banka Island had a population of 115,189. Trade — Shipping.— In 1902 the imports amounted in value to $355,200, and exports to $32,566. In the same year the port was entered by 87 vessels, of which 78 were steamers. Pier. — ^A pier about a quarter of a mile in length extends from the western point of the river, with a depth of 5 feet at its extremity at low water. There is a small camber, westward of the pier, where small trading vessels load and discharge. Lights. — From the extremity of the pier a fixed red light is exhibited from a wooden support. On the inner end of the pier a flashing white light is exhibited, at an elevation of 41 feet above high water, from a wooden support on a stone dwelling, the whole 43 feet in height; the light should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 8 miles. Communication. — The Koyal Netherlands Packet Co.'s steamers running between Batavia and Palembang call here every fortnight, and the line between Batavia and Belawan-Deli every 17 days. Muntok is in telegraphic communication with Sumatra ports and Batavia; thence Avith all parts. MUNTOK EOADS. 163 Coal and supplies. — Coal may be obtained here from the Dutch GoTernment by applicaticn to the harbor master, but vessels can only bring it off in own boats. Ships' boats can coal from the pier at any time. Provisions are dear, with the exception of fowls. Medical assistance may be had by application to the governor. Anchorage. — ^The best anchorage for vessels in Muntok Boad is in depths of from 8 to 10 fathoms, over soft ground, about If miles from the shore, with Menumbing Hill bearing about 12° and Tan- jong Kalian from 294° to 282°. Dutch vessels of war stationed in Banka Strait and small vessels trading to Muntok anchor in 4J to 5 fathoms water, at any convenient distance and direction from the pierhead. The depths in the entrance to the river are from half a foot to 1 foot. Signals. — When the entrance to Muntok River is dangerous a blue flag is hoisted at the harbor master's office at the inner end of the pier. Directions.— tting against the wind, causing a slight ripple. Jangkulnn or Green Island, about 15 miles southwestward of Mengirang Besar, is about a third oi a mile in extent, covered with trees, has a white sandy beach, and is surrounded for a short distance by a reef, having depths of 15 to 20 fathoms close-to. Pulo Batong or Semut. — -At the distance of 3 miles northwest of Mengirang Islands is a group of small islands, the northeastern of which, Batong or Pulo Semut, not quite half a mile in extent, limits the narrowests part of the channel between the two main groups of the Tambelan Islands. Fulo Bedua. — At two-thirds of a mile westward of Pulo Semut lies Pulo Bedua, which has four hills upon it, the highest, 408 feet high, being near its- west end. Close to the southward of Bedua are two small islands, Untuk and Lipi. A reef surrounds Bedua and embraces Untuk, as charted. Karang Tengah, with a least depth of 3 fathoms, is situated upon a banlc having 4 to 10 fathoms on other parts of it, at three-quarters of a mile westward of Lipi. The. channel between Bedua and Semut is clear, with depths from 17 to 22 fathoms. Kapala Tambelan is a small island lying 2 miles southwestward of the Bedua group and about a mile from the southern part of Benua. The channel between the Mengirang Islands and the Bedua Group is free f rem danger, with depths of 1 6 to 20 fathoms. A coral bank, with depths of 7 to 10 fathoms, and 16 to 20 fathoms around, lies about 1.25 miles 244° true from Kapala Tambelan, which island may be passed on either side. BENUA NOETHEASTEEN GROUP. 281 Benua, by far the largest island of the southwestern group, is nearly 4 miles in length by 2.5 miles in breadth. Its highest part, near its northeast end, is about 950 feet above the sea, and there are other hills upon it from 300 to 600 feet high. The north coast of the island forms a bay, in which vessels may anchor in depths of 10 to 14 fathoms, with good shelter during the southwest monsoon. Close to the east side of Benua are two smaller islands, Selintang and Jela. Selintang is a remarkable cone-shaped island, attaining an elevation of 681 feet. Jela is about 265 feet in height. Islands westward of Benua. — The group of 10 islands extending nearly 5 miles to the northwestward of Benua are all tolerably ele- vated, and Mundaga, the westernmost, is 697 feet high. The chan- nels between are deep, and considered to be generally free from dan- ger, but that between Benua and Ibul can not be recommended, for the strong eddies and ripplings led the officers of the Rifleman to infer that dangers existed in it, although, after a careful search, 4 fathoms was the least water foimd. It is, however, possible that a small shoal may have escaped the lead, and this channel had better be avoided. A reef extends some distance from the northern side of Ibul, nearly to Peling. A rock awash lies about a third of a mile from the southwest extreme of Leso, the island lying close to the western part of Benua; elsewhere these islands appear free from danger. Northeastern Group. — Tambelan, the largest island of this group, is of triangular shape, and nearly 4.5 miles in extent. Upon its northeast coast are several hills, the highest of which, Bini or Tambelan Peak, attains an elevation of 1,300 feet, and is visible from a considerable distance in clear weather. A short distance to the eastward of Tambelan Peak is Kotit or Thumb Peak, a remarkable sloping hill, 953 feet high. Puterjala or East Peak, a sharp cone, 950 feet high, rises near the eastern extreme of the island. B.eef . — The north coast is almost free from reef, but Pilang Besar, a small islet, lies half a mile offshore, about the middle part of the coast, with Pilang Kechil, another small islet close inshore, abreast it. A reef extends from Tanjong Kemantan, the east point of Tam- belan, and upon its edge, half a mile southward of the point, is Batu Eakit, a rock which dries occasionally. Reefs fill up the bights on the southeast coast of the island. A reef, with a rock awash on its extreme, extends about one-third of a mile from the south point of the island, thence fronting the coast into Tambelan Creek. A reef also extends a half a mile from Tanjong Ajam, or Suicides Point, the west entrance point of Tam- belan Creek, and fronts the coast, and surrounds Betunde, the islet which lies close to the western extreme of Tambelan Island; thence 282 SOUTHERN PAET OF THE CHINA SEA. the reef fronts the west coast at an average distance of about 400 yards to Tanjong Anchu, the northwest extreme of the island. Tambelan Creek. — Tambelan Island is nearly divided into two parts by a creek, which trends in a northeasterly direction into its western side. The creek is nearly a mile wide, but fringed with reefs and encumbered with several rocks. A pinnacle rock, with a depth of 2 fathoms, lies in the fairway, 160° true, nearly a quarter of a mile from Tanjong A jam (Suicides Point), as before mentioned with the anchorages. A black conical buoy marks this spot and is located 492 yards southward of Suicides Point. A breakwater, composed of coral, crosses its upper part, about li miles within the entrance, leaving but a narrow boat channel, through which the tidal stream sets with considerable strength. Behind the breakwater is a stockade, and an old fort stands upon the shore near the west end of the breakwater. The whole of these works were constructed to defend the village, Batu Lepu, which is about half a mile within the breakwater on the western bank of the creek, from the attacks of pirates who formerly visited these islands and carried into slavery any of the natives they could capture. Alida Shoal, eastward of the group, is described on page 276. Pulo Bungin, 285 feet high, is a small island lying 1.25 miles westward of the northwest point of Tambelan. A reef, with 2 fathoms least water, extends half a mile northeastward of the islet. At 400 yards southeast of Pulo Bungin is Pulo Jangkulak, a small islet, from which a sandbank projects north-northeastward about a third of a mile, having a rock above water within its extreme. A rocky patch of 4 fathoms lies nearly half a mile southwestward of Bungin, and irregular depths, 4 to 9 fathoms, surround that island, except on its northwest side, where deep water will be found close to the beach. Sedua Besar, 886 feet high, and Sedua Kechil, 640 feet high, lie from 1.5 to 2.5 miles northwestward of Tambelan Island, separated from each other by a narrow deep channel. They are bold-to in most places. The channel between Sedua Besar and Tambelan ap- pears to be free from danger on either side of the Bungin dangers, with general depths of 19 to 24 fathoms, but the soundings are scanty and irregular in places. Sendulang Besar and Sendulang Kechil, lying 3 miles northwest- ward of the Sedua Islands, are two small round-shaped islands, sur- rounded to a short distance by reef and separated by a narrow channel. Sendulang Besar rises to a sharp cone 792 feet high. The smaller island is about 300 feet high. The channel between Sedua Kechil and Sendulang Kechil has general depths of 19 to 24 fathoms. Pulo ITwi (Wai), the northwesternmost island of the group, is triangular, about 2 miles in extent, and rises to several peaked hills, TOKONG UWI KAYU AKA. 283 the highest of which, near its eastern end, is elevated 1,093 feet. A reef, with two rocks above water on its extreme, extends about 400 yards in a northeasterly and half a mile in a southerly direction from its eastern point. The north and west coasts are fronted by reef to about 300 yards, but its south side is almost clear. Tokong Uwi (Wai), situated weSt-northwestward, distant 12 miles from the summit of Pulo Uwi, are two barren rocks, on a bank about 700 yards in extent, on which there are depths of 3 to 5 fathoms, and steep-to, with 30 fathoms water at a short distance. The northern and larger rock is about 113 feet in height, the other about 95 feet. Tokong Belajar or Gap Hock, distant 11.75 miles 9° true from Tambelan Peak, is remarkable. It consists of two large bowlders lying on a flat rock, the larger of which js 124 feet in height. (See view on chart.) A shoal extends about 400 yards from its south side. Close around the rock are depths of 18 to 23 fathoms. Karang Laut or Europe Shoal is about a njile in extent, with a least depth of 3 fathoms at about the middle of the shoal, from which Gap Kock bears 82° true, distant 9 miles. Around the shoal the depths are 15 to 20 fathoms. Islands west and northwest of the Tambelan Group. — Tokong Kemudi or St. Julian Island, about 40 miles westward of the Tambelan Group, is nearly a mile in length and 200 yards in breadth. It is low in the center, rising to a hill about 384 feet high on the south end, and to another 676 feet high on the north end, Avhich latter forms a bold cliff to seaward. There is deep water close- to on all sides. Dumdum or Camels Hump, about 18 miles north-northeastward from Kemudi, is about a mile in length and third of a mile in breadth. It is well named, the highest part of the island forming a hump 625 feet in height. Mendarik or Saddle Island, 12 miles northeastward from Camels Hump, is half a mile in length by a quarter of a mile in breadth. The hills forming its saddle are in line on about a 188° true and oppo- site bearing, the higher and southern one being 364 feet in height. Kayu Ara or Barren Island is a whitish rock, 80 feet high, about 200 yards in length and without the slightest trace of vegetation. The isla.nd is steep-to, except on its northwest and southwest sides, where shallow water extends a quarter of a mile. On the latter side are^ two rocks above water. The island is the resort of varieties of sea fowl, which, in the season of incubation, deposit great quantities of eggs. Landing is said to be easy on the western side, but this possibly applies to the northeast monsoon period only. 284 SOUTHERN PART OF THE CHINA SEA. Pengibu or Victory Island, the northwesternmost of the groups of islands above described, lies about 8 miles west-northwestward from Barren Island. It is densely wooded, attains a height in the center of 315 feet, and there are depths of about 3 fathoms at a short distance from it. It and Kayu Ara, above mentioned, form good landmarks for vessels proceeding from Singapore to the northwest coast of Borneo. Hughes Shoal, with 3^ fathoms least water and composed of coral, is 800 yards in length and 400 yards in breadth. Its outer edge, in 8 fathoms, lies three-quarters of a mile southwestward of Pengibu ; beyond this depth it is steep-to. . Acasta Rock, situated 4 miles 361° true from Pengibu, is just below the surface of the sea, and in calm weather may only be seen by the discoloration of the water; the least swell, however, breaks on it. The depths around it are over 30 fathoms. NATUNA ISLANDS. General remarks. — The Natuna Islands extend in a north-north- west direction 190 miles from Tanjong Api, the northwest extreme of Borneo. They may be divided into three groups — the ' South Natuna, the Great Natuna, and the North Natuna. The following information is the result of a new survey by the Netherlands surveying vessels up to 1908 : Api Passage (latitude 2° 0' north, longitude 109° 10' east), between the coast of Borneo and the southernmost islands of the South Natuna Group, appears to be free from danger, with general depths in the fairway of 13 to 15 fathoms. The coast, forming its southern boundary, Tanjong Api to Tanjong Datu, and the dangers in-shore, have been described, and the Natuna Islands and dangers forming its northern boundary, below. On account of the strong southwesterly current which prevails during the northeast monsoon from 16 to 19^ hours at a time, this passage is not recommended for sailing vessels. These vessels should take one or other of the passages between the Natuna Group, as mentioned on page 294. (See tides p. 302.) Directions for Api Passage from Singapore, page 381. South Watuna Islands. — This group, consisting of several islands, reefs, and shoals, is separated from the northwest coast of Borneo by Api Passage, above described, and extends to about lati- tude 3° 4' north. The two principal islands are Serasan and Subi Besar. The depths around the South Natuna Group vary from 10 and 15 to 30 and 40 fathoms, and southeastward to the coast of Borneo average from 20 to 15 fathoms. API PASSAGE — SEMBUNI EEEFS. 285 Current. — The current at times is strong among the South Natuna Islands, according to the prevailing winds. In Koti Passage it has sometimes been found to run 2^ miles per hour northward during the southwest monsoon. The channel between Subi and Midai or Low Island is ordinarily- used by sailing vessels proceeding to China by the Palawan route during the northeast monsoon, although it sometimes happens that vessels are unable to weather Subi, and find it convenient tp proceed through Koti Passage to the southward of Subi. Islands bordering Api Passage. — St. Pierre Islands (Muri) , at the southwest end of the group, north side of Api Passage, con- sist of two wooded islands, connected by a reef, which dries at low water. A narrow fringing reef surrounds them. The westernmost, 334 feet, is the higher and larger island; the other is 282 feet high. Light. — Upon the westernmost island is exhibited, at an elevation of 335 feet above high water, a flashing white light, visible in clear weather from a distance of 24 miles. The light is obscured on the bearing of 262° when within 2.6 miles of the island, by Northeast Island. St. Pierre Rock, 8 feet high and steep-to, lies 187° true, distant 2 miles from the lighthouse. It is about 30 yards in length, and has depths of 14 to 19 fathoms close around. The channel between the islands and the rock has depths of 18 to 20 fathoms. Tides. — The ebb stream between the St. Pierre Islands and Tan- jong Api sets to the southward, and the flood, which prevailed dur- ing the examination of St. Pierre Rock, set to the northeast. Springs rise 4 feet. Merundung, about 28 miles east-northeastward of St. Pierre Rock, is an island about a mile in extent, largely composed of mangrove swamp, but near its center it rises to 118 feet in height. A reef, dry at low water, lies about 1,400 yards off its west side, and there is a patch of 6 fathoms about the same distance from its northeast side. Rock.— A rock, with less than 6 feet water and from 5 to 9 fathoms around it, lies 50° distant 10.5 miles from the summit of the island. The bottom is irregular between it and the island. South Haycock or Hoiberg is a small islet, 467 feet in height, situated about 17 miles northwestward of Merundung, and is fringed by a reef to a short distance. There is a rock above water close southwest of the islet. Sembuni and Malu Reefs comprise an extensive mass of dangers lying between Merundung and Serasan. Sembuni is the name given to that portion which lies nearer to Merundung, the channel between 286. SOUTHERN PART OP THE CHINA SEA. the rock northeastward of that island and the reefs being about 5 miles wide, with depths of 13 to 16 fathoms. Semburii Eeefs form a ridge 7 miles in length in an east-northeast and opposite direction, with several rocky heads. The eastern one, situated 18 miles east of the South Haycock, has a least depth of 2 fathoms. The westernmost, awash, lies 104° distant 12 miles from the Haycock. Patches of 2 and 2| fathoms lie between those ex- tremes, and they are all steep-to. Malu Eeefs extend about 15 miles east-northeastward of South Haycock. The easternmost reef, awash, lies 72° true, distant 14 miles from South Haycock, with a patch of 2^ fathoms half a mile beyond it. Kapang Eeef , awash, is the southernmost danger. It lies 98° true, distant 6.5 miles from South Haycock. A patch of li fathoms lies 258° true, distant 2.3 miles from Kapang Eeef. Several shallow patches, some awash, lie between the extreme dangers mentioned, as charted. Serasan Passage is bounded on the south by the South Haycock and the Malu Eeefs just described, and on the north by Serasan and its contiguous islands. Its narrowest past, between the easternmost reef and Perhantuan Island is about 5.5 miles wide, and with depths of 15 to 26 fathoms. It is sometimes used by sailing vessels proceeding eastward against the northeast monsoon, as mentioned on page — . Serasan Island is 9 miles in length east and west, and mountain- ous, except on its north side, where there is a low sandy shore, form- ing a bay having depths of 10 to 14 fathoms. It has a breadth vary- ing from half a mile to about 2 miles, and on its south side attains a height of 1,447 feet. Tanjong Koti, the west extreme of the island and the coast east- ward, is foul as far as the bay. A reef, which breaks at times, ex- tends nearly half a mile off its western point. Mount Koti is 763 feet in height. Islets — Anchorages. — ^A chain of islets extends 7J miles in a north-northeast direction from the northeast point of Serasan, affording partial shelter from northeasterly winds in the bay north- ward of Serasan, just mentioned. They are named Genting, 384 feet high; Peanjamuk, 246 feet; Sempadi, 546 feet; Sedua and Eikel Banjo, and Kepala, a low rock surrounded by a reef and forming.the northeastern and outermost of the group. There is anchorage also southwest of Tanjong Koti, as charted. B/Ocks. — A patch of IJ fathoms lies nearly a mile westward of Sempadi, and one of 6 fathoms at 1.5 miles northeastward of that islet. Patches of 3 fathoms extend about a mile off the eastern gide ROYALIST HAVEN— SBBAIA. 287 of the bay referred to, and there are patches of 4^ and if fathoms in the approach to the bay, ag charted. Islets — Southwest side. — Nearly joining Serasan on its south- west side is an extensive flat, with several islets on it, the largest of which, Tebeian Besar (Brian Island), is 748 feet high. The Gordon Islands and Perayun are situated on the eastern side of the flat. There is a channel between Serasan and the flat, much encumbered with rocks; at its south end is Royalist Haven. Royalist Haven. — The entrance is about 400 yards wide between Batu Hoi and Batu Pachil, with a depth of 8 fathoms in the fair- way and in the haven. There are several rocky heads, with deep water between them, in and around the anchorage, which has depths of 8 to 10 fathoms, and is situated nearly half a mile within the entrance; but a vessel may thread her way between the coral heads for another half mile to Banff Bay, where there is anchorage in 6 fathoms. The northwest entrance is more encumbered with shoals, as charted. The leading mark into Royalist' Haven is Mount Koti, in line with Tanjong Bilan, east side of the haven, bearing 336° true. Perhantuan (Prantu), a small island 477 feet high, lies nearly 3 miles southward of the eastern extreme of Serasan, with depths of about 50 fathoms in the channel between theni. Koti Passage, which separates Serasan from Pulo Panjang, is 9.5 miles wide. The depths are irregular, from 17 to 30 fathoms. Fairway. — Haynes Shoal, with a depth of 3^ fathoms, is situated near the center of a bank 1.25 miles in extent, on which there are depths of 6 to 8 fathoms. It lies in the fairway, with Mount Koti, bearing 98° true, distant 8 miles. Directions. — This passage is sometimes used by sailing vessels proceeding from Singapore to Hongkong against the northeast monsoon, and unable to weather Subi Besar. It has no dangers in or near its fairway other than the shoal just mentioned. North side. — Pulo Panjang, about 3 miles in length, is a low island situated on a reef about 6 miles in length in a northeast and opposite direction. Kerdau is a low islet on the southwest extreme of this reef. Patches of 1^ to 5 fathoms lie within the 10-f athom contour line off this extreme. A rock, steep-to, lies westward of Pulo Kerdau, with Latu Rock bearing 359° true, distant 3.9 miles. The steamship Fleve struck on it in 1910. The rock is charted as having less than 6 feet water. Seraia, 3 miles in length, north and south, and 832 feet in height, forms the north side of the west approach to Koti Passage. Dua Rock, 64 feet high, lies 1.5 miles northeast of it. 288 SOUTHERN PABT OF THE CHINA SEA. Swanley Kock, 2J fathoms, and Pumubabung Reef, awash, lie between Seraia and Panjang; Jaring_ Reef, with 2 fathoms least water, lies about 5 miles northward of Seraia, with a patch of 5 fathoms, 3.5 miles, 30° true of it. Jabak Reef, with patches of 2 and 1^ fathoms, west and east of it, respectively. Latu Rock, above water, and Japu and Sebiang Islets, on a narrow reef, lies between Jaring Reef and Pulo Panjang, the neighborhood of which should be carefully avoided. Karang Laut lies on the north side of the eastern approach. It is awash at times and lies -4.3 miles 55° true from the northeast end of Pulo Panjang. Laut Reef lies 358° true, between 5.5 and 7 miles from Karang Laut and nearly 2 miles off the large fringing reef on the east side of Subi Besar. It has rocks awash or above water in places, as charted. Serdang Reef, with 3^ fathoms least water, and steep-to, lies about 7 miles 13° true, of the center of Laut Reef and 7 miles east- ward of the north end of Subi Besar, in the northern approach to Koti Passage. All these dangers are steep-to and should be given a wide berth. Sulbi Besar, the northernmost and largest of the South Natuna Islands, is 10.5 miles in length north and south, and 3 to 4 miles average breadth, with Subi iCechil off its north end, on the reef which surrounds it. Reef. — The northeast extreme of the reef encircling Subi Besar lies 3 miles east-northeastward from the north end of Subi Kechil. This reef extends about 3 miles east and west of the central portion of Subi Besar. The dangers off the eastern side have been mentioned with Koti Passage. On the edge of the western reef lies Dengajak Islet, and farther southwest ward outlying the reef are Tudang and Bakau Islets, within the 10-fathom contour line, with shoals southward of it, as charted. The south side of the island is free from solid reef, but shallow water extends 2 miles southward of the island. Mambat Rock, above water,, and Tembelai Islet are situated on reefs between the south- east side of the island and Karang Laut, the outermost reef before described. Subi Kechil, close to the north end of Subi Besar, is 261 feet in height, 2.5 miles in length by about a mile in breadth, and stands on the same reef which encircles the larger island. Settlement, channel to. — :There is a small settlement on the southeast end of Subi Kechil, and the gutter in the main reef leading to it from the eastward is marked by two beacons with white balls MIDAI ISLAND GREAT NATUIfA CHANNEL. 289 on the northern side, and two beacons with black truncated cones on the south side ; positions are charted. Light. — On the 272-feet summit of the north extreme of Subi Kechil is exhibited a group flashing white light visible from a dis- tance of 22 miles in clear weather. It is obscured to the southward by Subi Besar, as charted and in the Light List. Midai or IjOW Island, situated about 60 miles westward of Subi Besar, is about 4 miles in length east and west and 2.3 miles in breadth. It rises gradually to an ill-defined summit, 591 feet high (top of trees) , and is densely wooded. The island is surrounded by a coral reef, but landing may generally be effected on the lee side. There are small settlements on the shores, as charted. Dangers. — ^The 10-fathom contour lies at 2.5 miles northeast and southwest of the island and at rather a less distance elsewhere. Within it there are many rocky heads of 2^ to 5 fathoms, rendering it necessary to keep outside that line unless seeking anchorage. Jackson Reefs lie on the east side of Midai, between the bearings of 72° true and 112° distant from 5.5 to 4 miles, respectively, from the southeastern point. The depths on the heads are from 3 to 5 fathoms, with deep water close-to. Diana Reefs consist of a number of isolated coral patches, in two groups; that nearest to Midai is 4.25 miles in length, east and west, within the 10-fathom contour line, and 2 miles in breadth, with a least depth of 3 fathoms. The northern group is 6.5 miles in length, with a patch of If fathoms on its south side, and patches of 2 to 3 fathoms near its extremes. A patch of 2 fathoms lies in latitude 3° 13' north, longitude 107° 52' east, 5.75 miles 54° true from the eastern extreme of the northern group. The whole of these are steep-to. There is deep water be- tween Midai and the southern group, and also between the two groups of the Diana Eeefs. North Haycock or North Hooiberg, 212 feet high, and of coni- cal shape, has a reef or bank encircling it to a distance of 3 miles within the 10-fathom contour, except on its northwest side, where it extends about half that distance. Patches of 2J to 5 fathoms exist on it, as charted. Postillion or Elphinstone Rocks, 54 feet high, consist of three rocks fairly close together. They are situated near the center of a bank, with depths under 10 fathoms, 3.5 miles in diameter. Patches of 4^ fathoms lie near the northwest and south extremes, a;nd there is a patch of 5^ fathoms near the eastern extreme. Beyond the 10-fathom line the bank is steep-to, dropping into 20 fathoms. Channel between Great Natuna and Subi — ^Directions. — The channel southward and eastward of Midai or Low Island, and 90045—15 19 290 SOUTHERN PAET OF THE CHINA SEA. between it and Subi Kechil, is some 50 miles wide, or about the same width as that between Great Natuna and Subi Kecihil. It is free from danger when eastward of Jackson Reef, near Midai. The light on Subi Kechil will enable the mariner at night to avoid the reefs extending westward of Subi Besar. Directions are given in the Passages, for sailing craft working up westward of Midai, under Great Natuna, during, the northeast monsoon. The North Haycock and Postillion Rocks, 212 and 54 feet high, respectively, are useful marks for avoiding the Diana Reefs. Great Natuna Island, or Pule Bunguran, is about 35 miles in length, north and south, and 25 miles in breadth. The interior of Great Natuna is mostly high. On the northern side of its center is Mount Bedong, or Quoin Hill, 1,432 feet in height. The Ranai Mountains attain a height of 3,396 feet a few miles within Tanjong Senubing, the east extreme of the island. The mountains on the peninsula, at its south end, reach a height of 1,969 feet in Mount Luchuk. Some of the projecting parts of the coast are rather lo^, particularly from between Tanjong Senubing and the north end of the island, where there are red cliffs. The island is inhabited by Malays and by natives of Borneo who have some trade with the neighboring islands and with the main- land. The principal settlement and the most frequented anchorage IS at Sedanau Island, on the west side. Caution. — Isolated reefs extend off the eaistern coast of Natuna Island from 5 to 7 miles and about 15 miles off the western side, and also northward to North Natuna, rendering it somewhat dangerous to approach, except with a lookout aloft and the sun in a favorable position for observing the reefs. The most important are described here ; for others, see the chart. North End. — Panjang Island, 2 miles in length, is situated close northward of' Great Natuna, with Panjang Strait between. Panjang Strait has a least breadth of half a mile, with 6 to 8 fathoms least water between the reefs which fringe both islands. There are patches of 2 to 4 fathoms on the north side of the western approach extending about 1 mile southwestward of Panjang Island. Panda Islet is situated on the reef fringing Tanjong Semut, the north extreme of Great Natuna, south side of ea'stern approach to Panjang Strait. Tanjong Datu, 364 feet high, forms the southeast point of the approach. East coast — Islets and dangers. — From Tanjong Datu the coast southeastward is fringed by a reef to the distance of about 2 miles, to Tanjong Senubing, off which is Senua Islet, and thence to Tanjong Karang. Between the two points is a gutter in the reef, KAKANG KEING SUNGI TJLU. 291 through which the Sungi Ulu discharges. From Tanjong Karang to Tanjong Pian Padang, the southeast extreme of the island, the shore reef is more broken up, but isolated patches are found at 4 miles offshore, below mentioned. Outlying Eeefs.— Karang Kring or De MieuUe Reef, dry at low water, on a sunken reef about a mile in extent, lies 4 miles 44° true from Senua Islet, mentioned below. Penjingul Reefs. — The two easternmost known patches lie on the meridian of 108° 30' east, at about 4.5 miles eastward of Tan- jong Karang and .2.75 miles apaist. The northernmost, with 2 fathoms, lies in latitude 3° 53f' north; the southernmost has 2 J fathoms. It is supposed the British ship Devonport struck on one of these in 1869, but the depths around the reef reported by that vessel at about 1.5 miles northeastward of the northernmost of these patches were 34 fathoms, whereas the depths around these are not more than 20 fathoms. Between these reefs and the shore are numerous shallow heads, so it is advisable vessels should not approach within a depth of 40 fathoms. Lamina Reef is nearly a mile in extent, with a head of 1^ feet, and 11 to 12 fathoms around it. It lies with Tanjong Pian Padang, the south extreme of the island, bearing 266°, distant 4.5 miles. Reefs, nearly awash, lie 4.5 and 5.5 miles from Lamina Reef, in the direction of Penungul Reefs, and nearly 4.5 miles offshore. Within them are numerous patches, as charted. Jantai and Kemudi Islets are situated on the edge of the shore reef, off Tanjong Sebintang, situated 6 miles southward of Tanjong Karang. Anchorages. — Senua Islet or Senoang, 379 feet high and half a mile in length, lies about 3 miles north-northeastward of Tanjong Senubing, within the 10-fathom contour line. Senua Strait lies between the islet and the shore reef, with shallow heads in it, as on plan. Telok Selaliang is an anchorage, with 4 fathoms, abreast a break on the shore reef and of Tanjong Tanjung. There are several shallow heads in the approach. It is probably a snug anchorage in the southwest monsoon period. Telok Ranai is an indentation in the coast southward of Tan- jong Senubing. It affords anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, sheltered from all southerly winds. There is a rock, not less than 6 feet water, toward its head, and patches of 3^ and 4J fathoms in its fairway. Southward of them the depths are from 6 to 9 fathoms. Sungi Ulu, southward of Telok Ranai, discharges through an opening in the reef between Tanjongs Pasir and Karang. Near the 292 SOUTHERN PART OF THE CHINA SEA. middle of the opening is a bar, with about 1^ feet water, deepening ■^^'ithin. Keefs front the point to a distance of 2.5 miles, with de- tached patches. It could only be entered by small craft with local knowledge. South coast. — Duperre Islands consist of three islands and several islets, occupying a space about 6 miles in length and the same in breadth, off the southwest extreme of Great Natuna. Batang, the northernmost, is 1,624 feet in height ; Lagong, the south- easternmost, is also 1,624 feet in height; and Sededap, the southern- most, is 920 feet in height. Kombeh Strait separates Batang from the other two mentioned, and has a least depth of about 6 fathoms between the fringing reefs : it leads into La Place Strait. La Place Strait, or Selat Lampa, is the channel separating Great Natuna from the islands of Batang and Lagong, of the Du- perre group. It has an average width of 1.5 miles, with depths of 18 to 24 fathoms in the fairway. Serantas Island, 394 feet high, lies on the west side of the southern entrance, fringed by a reef, as charted, reducing the channel between it and Natuna to a breadth of three-quarters of a mile. There is a narrow but deep channel west- ward of Senantas. Verdier Reef lies in La Place Strait, south side of the fairway, abreast Kombeh Strait, the channel bietween Betang and Lagong Islands. Its southeast extreme is nearly awash at low water. Burung Islet, 89 feet high, is situated on a reef about 1,400 yards in length, in the fairway of the western entrance. West coast. — Batu Neneh is a small reef which breaks heavily, situated 286°, distant 7.75 miles from the northwest extreme of Batang Island of the Duperre Group. It has depths of about 30 fathoms around it. Sedanau Island and Channels, together about 4 miles in length, front the rather large bay on the west side of Great Natuna Island. As shown on the plan and chart, the island is encircled by a consider- able reef, except off its south end, but off which are numerous de- tached reefs. The bay is also blocked, having but narrow channels, also encumbered with reefs, between the two. Anchorage may be taken in a depth of 12 fathoms just within the south extreme of Little Sedanau, with that point bearing 261°, and the southeast extreme 342°. To enter, steer in northward of Batu Neneh and of Serval Reef, which has a depth of 1^ fathoms, with the south point of Little Sedanau bearing 112°, passing about 300 yards southward of it, and anchoring within its point. To proceed to the settlement of Genting, local assistance is necessary, as the channel is much encumbered with shoals and is unbuoyed. KWALA BINJEI SEMAPI EEEF. 293 The northern entrance only is shown on the plan. It is of the same character, with many dangerous outlying shoals, as charted. Town. — Genting (Sedanau), on the east side of Sedanau Island, is the capital of the Anambas, Natunas, and Tambelan Groups, per- taining to the Sultanate of Ehio-Linga, where also the representative of the sultan resides. Good drinking water is obtainable here. Kwala Binjei and its continuation, Sungi Penarik, nearly divide Great Natuna. It is approached by the Sedanau Channels. The Netherlands surveying vessel, of 11 feet draft, steamed up to the entrance of the Binjei. This can only be attempted with local knowledge. Salor, or. Peaked Island, 1,604 feet in height, lies about 7 miles northward of Sedanau, and about 5 miles off the main island. A reef, with Kopok Rock on it, extends nearly 2 miles southeast of Salor. Many dangers exist in the channel between Great Natuna and Salor, and in which also are the islets of Penganak and Batu Bills, the latter 463 feet high, but there is a fairly clear channel close along Salor and its fringing reef, avoiding Sabangar Reef, situated in the fairway of the northern entrance. Sedua Islet, 276 feet high, and Selimu, 369 feet, close eastward of it, lie 7 miles northward of Salor, and about 3.5 miles off Tanjong Payung, with Sabai Islet close off that point. Off-lying Reefs. — At about 4 miles. 266°, of Sedua, is a reef with a least depth of 1| fathoms. Small reefs, with depths of 2, 2, 2^, and 2 fathoms, lie, respectively, 241°, 9 miles; 233°, 9 miles; 202°, 5 miles; and 168°, 1.75 miles, from the summit of Sedua. Off the reef, fringing the shore northeastward of Tanjong Pa- yung, are Buton, Samarago, and Bunga, small islets standing on detached reefs, with other reefs too numerous to mention. A rock, apparently above water, lies 53°, 2.25 miles from Samarago. The others are mostly within the 10-fathom contour, including Bengara Reefs, which lie between Selimu and Buton. Seluan, or Northwest Island, 964 feet high, lies about 9 miles off the northwest side of Great Natuna ; excepting the rock at 600 yards off its southeast extreme and a sunken rock in the eastern bay, it is fairly steep-to. A reef, with 2 fathoms least water, lies 283°, 2.75 miles from the summit of the island. Semapi Reef, dry at low water, and 3.5 miles in length, lies midway between Seluna and the north point of Great Natuna. Shallow heads lie within the 10-fathom line, as charted. A reef, with If fathoms least water, lies 2.5 miles northwestward of the north end of Semapi Reef. 294 SOUTHEEN PART OF THE CHINA SEA. Favorite Passage lies between Semapi Keef and those fringing the shore. It has a least depth of 9 fathoms, on a fairway bank. The rock above water northeast of Samarago, before mentioned, lies on the south side of its western entrance. Panjang, off the north extreme of Great Natuna, forms the east side of the northern approach to the passage. This completes the description of Great Natuna and its dangers. CHANNEL BETyVEEN GREAT AND NORTH NATUNA. Dangers. — The dangers on and southward of the parallel of Pan- jang Island, at the north end of Great Natuna, have just been described, with the exception of Tokong Boro, the westernmost. Tokong Boro or Pyramidal Hocks, a cluster of four rugged rocks, 18 feet in height, situated on a reef about half a mile in diameter, within the 10-f athom contour line, and steep-to, lie about 26 mUes westward from Seluan, south side of the western approach. Karang Bunta, or Success Eeef, consists of two reefs a short distance apart. On the northern one is a patch dry at low water, situated 36 miles northeastward of Tokong Boro and 289°, 16.5 miles from Panjang Island, near the fairway of the channel. There are depths of 20 to 30 fathoms at a short distance. Semiun or Saddle Island, 497 feet high, is well wooded. It is encircled by a reef which is steep-to and extending nearly half a mile from its northeast and southeast extremes. This island lies on the north side of the western approach. A reef, with a depth of 2| fathoms, and steep-to, lies 1.25 miles 216° from the south extreme of Semiun, and a patch of 5 fathoms, 19°, 1.5 miles from its northeast extreme. Tokong Burung, a rock 13 feet high, lies 5.75 miles south- southwestward of Semiun, with depths of 22 to 24 fathoms at a short distance. Gloria Reef, about 2 miles in extent, within the 10- fathom con- tour, has a rocky head of 1^ fathoms near its center, situated 5 miles, 179° of the south extreme of North Natuna. Patches of 3^ to 4 fathoms are situated on the reef, which is steep-to. The cylinders of the engines of the Gloria, wrecked in 1877, showed well above low water in 1893. Karang Kia or Louise Reef, with a least depth of 3J fathoms, and steep-to, lies 107°, about 3 miles from Gloria Reef, with depths of 12 fathoms between. A patch, with same depth, 3^ fathoms, lies 204°. 2.5 miles from Karang Kia, also steep-to. KABANG TUMAN SEKATUXG. 295 Karang Tuman, 1.5 miles in length, within the 10- fathom con- tour, has a head of 3^ fathoms near its western end, situated 75° 2.25 miles from Karang Kia. Batu Penu or Belknap is a rocky head, with 2| fathoms, on a bank nearly 2 miles in length, and steep-to. The shallow spot lies 24° 2.3 miles from Karang Tuman, and 120° true nearly 7 miles from the south point of North Natuna. Laurel Reef, a small patch, with 7 fathoms water, lies off the eastern side of North Natuna, 112°, 8 miles from Sekatung. Be- tween Laurel Eeef and the south extreme of the reef fringing North Natuna are patches of 6 and 4J fathoms, as charted. The neighbor- hood should be avoided. The North Natuna Islands are of moderate height. They are inhabited by Malays and a few Chinamen, and produce coconuts, bananas, oranges, and other fruits. There were about 700 inhabitants in 1893, under a chief who resides on the west side of Pulo Laut. The islands belong to the sultan of Ehio-Linga. The islands com- prise Pulo Laut, or North Natuna, and Sekatung. Pulo Laut is 6.75 miles in length, 896 feet in height near its north extreme, and 364 feet near its southwest extreme. Sekatung', 728 feet in height and 1.25 miles in length, lies off its northern extreme, and on the same encircling reef. Reefs. — The islands are encircled by reefs to a considerable dis- tance. From the northeast extreme of Sekatung, which is steep-to, the reef gradually increases its distance to 3 miles off the eastern and southeastern sides, with outlying patches to a distance of 5 miles, as charted; beyond these are the reefs above described. Near the east- ern edge of the fringing reef are Glamis Castle Eock and Doris Eeef, named after vessels striking on them, 1878 and 1893, respectively, before the ground was surveyed. Off the south extreme is BatuTmung, a rock 58 feet in height, within the 10-fathom contour line. Westward of Batu Imung the fringing reef approaches the south side of the island to within half a mile, to abreast Tanjong Majam, its southwest extreme, from whence it extends 3.5 miles in a westerly direction, with a breadth of nearly 2 miles, with rocks above water in places; from thence it gradually approaches the shore, and at the northwest point it is only about 400 yards off. Outlying patches, however, extend to about 2 miles off the south shore and about the same distance westward of the center of the island, as charted. The whole of this reef is steep-to within the 10-fathom contour, and the island should be given a wide berth at night. 296 SOUTHEEN PART OF THE CHINA SEA. Anchorage. — There is anchorage in 12 to 13 fathoms, eastward or westward of Batu Imung, off the south side of Pulo Laut, during the northeast monsoon period; and there is anchorage within the detached reefs here, abreast Tanjong Ma jam and Parit settlement, at about 1 mile offshore, to reach which local knowledge is desirable. From the plan the clear channel is from close southward of Batu Imung, direct to Tanjong Ma jam, between the shore reef and the off-lying patches of 3 feet to 3 fathoms, in a depth of about 7 to 8 fathoms. Landing is probably easy here at high water. CHAPTER IX. NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. . TANJONG DATU TO LABUAN ISLAND. General remarks. — The northwest coast of Borneo eastward of Tanjong Datu includes the protected native State of Sarawak, and part of the territory of the British North Borneo Co., for an account of which see below. Much of the country bordering this coast is low, but about 26 miles inland there is a mountain range which stretches in a northeasterly direction through Bruni and North Borneo, terminating 50 miles from the northern extreme of the island, in the great mountain of Kina Balu. In addition to this range and trending parallel to it is a coast range. British North Borneo. — This territory, formerly known as Sabah, situated at the northeastern part of Borneo, has a coast line of about 900 miles. The chief geographical feature in the territory is Kina Balu Mountain, 13,455 feet in height. The country is densely timbered. The territory of British North Borneo was acquired from the sultans of Bruni and Sulu by cession for a small annual payment in 1879-80, and the British North Borneo Co. was incorporated by royal charter in 1881. The area of the territory is about 31,000 square miles. The population amounts to about 208,183, consisting mainly of Mohammedan settlers on the coast, and abo- riginal tribes inland, with some Chinese traders and artisans. Harbors. — The best harbors are those of Gaya, on the west coast; Kudat, on the north coast; and Sandakan, on the east coast. The rivers are small. Produce — Trade, — Most of the trade is carried on through Singapore and Hongkong, with Great Britain, and the Colonies. The chief products are timber, sago, rice, gums, coffee, fruits, nut- megs, cinnamon, pepper, gambler, gutta-percha, camphor, rattans, tapioca, rubber, and tobacco, the two latter being planted on a large scale. Bird's nests, seed pearls, and beche de mer are also exported. Coal, iron, gold, and mineral oil have been found. The exports in 1910 amounted in value to $4,609,021, and the imports to $3,801,306, Climate. — The climate of North Borneo is noticeable for nothing more than for its equability and the absence of extremes. The tem- perature, rainfall, winds, and diseases are, for a tropical country, of 297 298 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. the most mild and temperate tj'pes, and compare not unfavorably with the Straits Settlements. The chief diseases are malarial fever, beri-beri, and dysentery; fever forms about one-fourth of the cases treated in hospital. Rainfall. — ^The annual rainfall near the coast, according to records kept during the seven years ending 1885, ranged from 101 to 157 inches, with an average of 124 inches. The true wet season occurs in the northeast monsoon, and includes the months of November, December, and January, and generally part of either October or February, or both. During this season the greater part of the rain falls from a uniform dull gray sky, and is pretty equally distributed between day and night, but the rain is not continuous. The true dry season immediately follows this true wet season, and includes March and April, and generally part of February and the whole of May. During this time any rain that falls generally occurs in showers at night or early morning, and no month passes without several showers. This true dry season is followed by a period of moderate rainfall, commencing usually about June, the first month or six weeks of which may almost be called a second wet season and the rest of the period, up to the commencement of the true wet season, a second dry season. As, however, the limits of these two are ill-defined, their characters similar, and the difference in rainfall campara- tively small, it is better to consider them together as a sort of inter- mediate season. During this period the rain falls chiefly in heavy squalls (either with thunder or from thundery clouds), occurring most frequently in the afternoon and evening, but not confined to that tin\e. It is during these squalls that the heaviest falls of rain occur. Temperature. — The temperature recorded at the coast has ranged between the extremes of 67.5° and 94.5°, but the difference in tem- perature between the various seasons of the year is very slight. The lowest average temperature (79°) for both day and night is during the wet season, in December and January ; the highest aver- age temperature during the night occurs during the dry season, in April and May (74°) ; while the highest average temperature dur- ing the day is in August and September (89°)". The absence of tornadoes, cyclones, and earthquakes is to be noted. The peculiar phenomena of tropical climates generally are found here. Thunderstorms, with much sheet lightning, are frequent during July, August, and September, and are sometimes severe. Mirage is generally present in the afternoon to a slight extent. Phosphor- escence occurs in great perfection in Sandakan Bay^ BKXJNI SARAWAK. 299 On the whole the country appears to be fairly healthy for the Tropics, less so than Singapore, but much better than the Dutch Islands south of the equator. There is certainly a considerable amount of intermittent fever, and many visitors to the island are attacked, but the disease is not often fatal to Europeans. Railways. — A railway runs from Bruni Bay into the interior, and from there to Jesselton, in Gaya Bay, the whole length being 130 miles. Telegraphs.^A telegraph line runs across the island from Menumbok (opposite Labuan) to Sandakan, with a branch to Weston. Darvel Bay is connected with this line, and a line is carried northward to Gaya Bay (Jesselton), Ambong Bay, and Kudat Harbor. Labuan is connected by submarine cable with Singapore and Hongkong. Mail communication. — Trading steamers run constantly be- tween Sandakan, Labuan, and Singapore about four times a month, and also to Hongkong and to Sulu. Bruni. — On January 2, 1906, by treaty, the sultan of Brimi handed over the general administration of his state to a British resident, as before mentioned. The present sultan succeeded his father in May, 1906. He and his two principal ministers receive an allowance. Area, about 4,000 square miles; population, about 30,000. The chief town, Bruni, population 10,000, is built on piles over the water in Bruni River, but the Chinese shopkeepers have removed to the mainland, where they have built a new town. Sarawak. — The territory of Sarawak, on the northwest coast of Borneo, comprises an area of about 42,000 square miles, with a population estimates at 500,000, composed of various races. It is intersected by many rivers navigable for a considerable distance inland, and commands about 400 miles of coast line. The sover- eignty of the district from Tanjong Datu (its western limit) tp the entrance of Samaharan Eiver was obtained from the sultan of Bruni in the year 1842 by Sir James Brooke, who became well known as Eajah Brooke of Sarawak. Various accessions were made between 1861, 1885, and 1890. The present rajah. Sir Charles John- son Brooke, nephew of the late rajah, succeeded in 1868. There are military and police forces under an English officer. Produce. — Coal exists in large quantities, as well as gold, silver, diamonds, antimony, quicksilver, gutta-percha, canes, rattans, bees- wax, sago, pepper, etc. The chief towns are Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, situated on the Sarawak Eiver, about 20 miles from its mouth, and Sibu, 60 miles up the Eejang River, which is navigable by vessels of moderate 300 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. draft. At Kuching are Church of England and Roman Catholic missions and schools. Harbor, buoy, and light dues are chargeable to all vessels of 5 tons and upward, payable on arrival. Harbors. — The principal ports are Kuching and Sibu, the ap- proaches to which afford secure anchorage for all classes of vessels. Cominunication. — There are regular steamers running fort- nightly from Kuching to Singapore and Labuan. The Government offices have- a telephone system extending over Kuching and Upper Sarawak, but no telegraph. Telegrams are sent by post from Singa- pore or Labuan. Labuan Island, situated about 5 miles off the northwest coast of Borneo, was ceded to Great Britain by the sultan of Bruni in 1846, and taken possession of in 1848. Labuan was incorporated in 1907, for administrative purposes,, in the settlement of Singapore. It has an area of about 30 square miles, possesses a good port, has extensive coal deposits, and by situation seemed likely to become a depot for the trade of the northwest of Borneo, but it has only partially fulfilled these expectations. The produce of Bruni finds a market in Labuan, but the volume of trade is small. There are sago factories on the island, where the raw material is converted into flour for export, chiefly to Singapore. The coast. — Between Tanjong Datu and Tanjong Sipang, the extremity of a similar high peninsula, 44 miles to the eastward, the coast forms a deep bay, near the head of which the Sungi Lundu and some minor streams discharge. At the east end of the bay is the Santubong entrance of the Sarawak River. There are no dangers in this bay outside the depth of 5 fathoms, but it has not been properly examined, and every caution should be observed in this locality. Pigmy Shoal. — The British ship Pigmy (1894), when in a posi- tion about 9.75 miles 94° from Tanjong Datu, obtained a depth of 7 fathoms where 13 fathoms was charted ; for a distance of 20 miles east-southeastward from that position less water than that shown on the charts was also found. The coast from Tanjong Datu trends southward for about 6 miles to Pirate Point, within which is Pirate or Sleepy Bay; thence it trends southeastward to the Lundu River. The chart shows it fronted by rocks and foul ground to the distance of about 2 miles, as far southward as the Talan Islands, but the dangers here have not been accurately determined. Several rocks are visible at low water southward of Sleepy Bay. Sleepy or Pirate Bay affords shelter during the southwest mon- soon for boats or small craft in 2 to 3 fathoms, observing that the approach is encumbered with rocks that are uncharted. TALAN ISLANDS LUNDU EIVEE. 301 The Talan Islands lie 13 miles southeastward from Tanjong Datu, and deserve notice as affording shelter under their lee for boats. A sand bank extends a short distance southward of Talan, the northern island. On the east side of the island is a sandy beach, where turtle resort in the season. The island is inhabited, and a small quantity of indifferent water is obtainable. Turtle Kock lies 204°, about three-quarters of a mile from Little "Talan Island, with the east side of Talan touching the north end of Little Talan. It uncovers at low water. Siru Eiver, abreast the Talan Islands, may be entered in a small boat in very fine weather. Samatan River, situated 5 miles eastward of the Siru, is appar- ently deeper than that stream. Within the entrance is a fishing sta- tion with a few huts. A rock, awash, is charted about a mile off Observatory Point, about midway between Samatan and Lundu Rivers. Others may exist. Lundu River has an estuary about 4 miles wide, blocked by a sand bank extending from its east point nearly to Baugh Point. On this bank is Lundu, a rock, dry at low-water springs. Mount Brooke, 3,050 feet high, is charted 4 miles southwestward of Baugh Point. Until further examination no vessel should come within a depth of 5 fathoms hereabouts, as there is reason to believe the ground is foul between Lundu Rock and Sampadien Island. The Lundu is available for boats. The best channel was found by passing close to the rocks at Baugh Point and following the curva- ture of the banks at a short distance from the trees. This course carried the 8ainarang''s boats (1844) safely in and out at low water, which was the best time to enter, when the channel was marked by the sands left dry. After passing the flats in the estuary and reaching the first sandy point on the west, depths of 4 and 6 fathoms will be found by follow- ing the bends. The town of Tundong is situated 9 miles from the mouth, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It was formerly de- fended by a boom. The water at the village is fresh, and was found to be good within 5 miles of the mouth. Islands.- — Sampadien, about three-quarters of a mile in length, stands on the eastern part of a reef 2 miles offshore and 1.5 miles in extent, on which are many rocks above water. Satang and Little Satang, about a mile apart in a north and south direction, have fringing reefs. They lie from 3 to 5 miles off the shore of the bay westward of Tanjong Sipang, within the 5-fathom 302 NOKTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. line of soundings. They form the west side of approach to the Santubong entrance of Sarawak River. Directions — Tides — Caution. — Sailing vessels navigating this coast must always be prepared to drop a light anchor should a calm attend an opposing tidal stream, particularly between Tanjong Api and Tanjong Sirik. In a depth of 14 fathoms no danger may be apprehended. The flood does not run more than 4 hours, but the strength of the ebb prevails for 8 hours. Therefore, where calms are frequent and steam not available no advance can be made without great attention to this subject. Off Tanjong Datu, in June, the ebb has been laiown to run for 15 hours, at an average velocity of 1.5 knots per hour. Proceeding eastward, if not intending to enter Sarawak River, and being eastward of Cruizer Rock, Tanjong Sipang should be kept bearing southward of 261°, until well eastward of the entrance, to avoid the shallow M'ater lying between Po Lighthouse and Pulo Burong. When within 4 miles of the lighthouse this bearing, even, would lead into from 3.25 to 4 fathoms. There is considerable in- draft on the flood to the several rivers between Sarawak River and Tanjong Sirik. Sarawak River Approach. — Aspect. — Tanjong Sipang, the northern extreme of a mountainous peninsula about 5 miles in length, lies between the two main entrances to Sarawak River. It may always be distinguished from the eastward or westward by two remarkable thumbs or sugar-loaf cones, which show out clear from these directions. The southern crest of the range, Mount Santubong, 2,712 feet in height, may be seen in clear weather from a. distance of 40 .miles. Matang Peak, about 11 miles southwestward of Mount -Santubong, is 3,168 feet in height, very sharp, and a prominent object. Westward of it and a little lower is a lump resembling a castle, and formerly known as Topsail Peak. It is not visible eastward of Santubong Peak. These mountains serve to identify the approach to Sarawak River. (See View.) On the western side of Sipang, a little southward of the extreme, there is a trickle of good water. Cruizer Rock, situated 3| miles 0° of the east extreme of Tan- jong Sipang, uncovers at half ebb, with 5 to 6 fathoms close- to, and is difficult to distinguish. At a quarter of a mile 244° from Cruizer Rock there is a patch of 3 fathoms, steep-to. Matang Peak, in line with the western side of Tanjong Sipang, leads eastward of Cruizer Rock, and the eastern points of Tfinjong Sipang Peninsula in line lead westward of the rock and of the 3-fathom patch. At night Po Point light (if visible), bearing southward of 130°, leads northward of the rock; by the chart the SARAWAK EIVEB. 303 southei-n limit of the light leads close northward, the line of obscu- ration being about 127°; Sarawak River, on which is situated the town of Kuching or Sarawak, has two navigable entrances, the Moratabas, eastward of Tanjong Sipang, and the Santubong, to the westward of it. The distance to Kuching or Sarawak is about 20 miles by either branch from their entrances. Navigability. — The Moratabas entrance is the one generally used, and has a depth of 18 feet at low-water springs. The Santu- bong, tliough it has a low-water depth of about 13 feet, is not navi- gable in the northeast monsoon, as at that period there is a heavy swell on its bar. Vessels of about 210 feet in length and 16 feet draft can go up to the town. The fortnightly steamei's from Singapore, 231 feet in length, have no difficulty. Those above that draft should not go beyond Kwop anchorage, from S to 9 miles below the town. (See the entrances.) Light. — On the southeast part of Po Point is a white tower, from which is exhibited, at an elevation of 490 feet above the sea, a fixed wliite light, visible 26 miles. The light is obscured in the direction of Cruizer Eock by the hill northwest of it. on the bearing of about 127° true, as charted, but it should be used with caution. Pilots. — ^There are no regular pilots for Sarawak River. There is, however, no great difficulty in a vessel of 15 feet draft reaching Kwop anchorage, from whence a message may be sent to the rajah asking for local assistance should a vessel wish to proceed up to the town. The men here have but little knowledge of handling vessels and sliould be carefully watched. The masters of steamers trading with Singapore, etc.. will usually undertake the duty, and it is ad\'isable. if proceeding from Singapore, to endeavor to arrange with one there for tlie purpose. The British ship Porpoise, 15^ feet draft, entered the Sarawak Eiver by the ^Moratabas entrance, and went up to Kwop anchorage without a pilot in August. 1896. Tides. — It is high water, full, and change, at the Moratabas entrance at Ih., springs rise 9 feet, neaps 5J feet; at the Santubong entrance, at lli., springs rise 10 feet, neaps 6 feet; at the Sarawak junction at oh.; and at Kuching, at 5h. 20m., springs rise 15 to IS feet, neaps 9 feet. The highest tides occur at night when the sim is south of tho equator and during the day when the sun is north of the equator. Off Kuching the ebb stream is stated to run from 4 to 5 knots at springs, and from 1 to 3 knots at neaps. In the entrances it is prob- ably considerably less than half of these velocities. 304 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Between the junction of the Kwop and Kuching the rise of tide is at times as much as 22 feet, the ebb lasting 7 hours and flood 5 hours. During freshets the water from the interior sometimes causes a current to run out of the river for several days continuously. At this time the flood is not felt, the water coming up underneath. It is stated on the chart that the ebb, combined with the current, obtains a velocity at times of 9 knots off Kuching. Moratabas Entrance — Depths. — The Moratabas is the main entrance to Sarawak Eiver, and Kuching, the capital, is about 20 miles above Moratabas Point. Vessels above 15 feet draft and 200 feet in length can not, without considerable risk, go above Kwop Anchorage, the junction with Kwop River, about 11 miles above Moratabas Point and from 8 to 9 miles below the town. From this anchorage there is a straight road to Kuching, only 3 miles distant. From last reports there is a depth of 18 feet at low-water springs over the bar of the Moratabas, situated about 1.5 miles eastward o-* the point of the same name. This should give a depth of 27 feet at high-water springs and 23^ feet at high-water neaps; but see Tides, above. Caution. — The depths are noted on the chart to be less in places than those given, and the banks are somewhat liable to change. The chart, therefore, which is old, should be used with considerable caution. During strong northerly winds there is considerable scend in the entrance, and it is not advisable for vessels above 18 feet draft to attempt to enter. Dangers in the approach. — The coast northward of the light- house, to the north extreme of the island on which it stands, is backed by the Moratabas range of hills, and there are no known dangers beyond the 5-fathom line. White Eock, 6 feet high, lies about half a mile northeastward of the lighthouse, within that line. Shore flat. — The bay between Po Point lighthouse and Mora- tabas Point is fronted by a sand and mud flat, dry at low water to a distance of over a mile, with depths gradually increasing to 3 fathoms at about 2.5 miles offshore; reported to be extending. !FMr-Way patches. — Patches of 2^ to 3 fathoms are shown in or near the fairway, between the 4-f athom contour on either side, the reported positions of which will be best understood by reference to the' chart. They are probably all of sand. (See Caution, above.) The northwest extreme of the 4-fathom contour line, on the east- ern side of the entrance channel, is charted nearly 1.75 miles north- eastward from the lighthouse, from whence it trends eastward. ' The bar, with about 3 fathoms at low water, hard sand, lies 4 miles within the lighthouse, its outer edge being distant about 1.75 miles east-northeastward from Moratabas Point. DIRECTIONS MOEATABAS BIVEE. 305 Small sand banks form on the bar, but are washed away again after a short time.. Buoy. — ^A red conical buoy, not to be depended on, is placed in 5 fathoms, in the fairway of the approach to the bar, with Po Point lighthouse, bearing 346°, distant 3.2 miles, from latest information (1911). Directions. — From the westward a vessel may pass either sea- ward or within Cruizer Eock, situated 3.3 miles off Tanjong Sipang. The entrance is not practicable at night. Po Point light is obscured southward of Cruizer Eock, so that with the light well insight (sup- posing it to be powerful enough to be seen at that distance), bear- ing southward of 130°, a vessel will pass northward of the rock, and may anchor notheastward of the light in a depth of from 7 to 9 fathoms during fine weather. It is advisable to employ a pilot for the river, for, as before remarked, the chart is unreliable. In entering this river, to guard agaiust the effects of the tidal stream, frequent bearings of Po and Moratabas Points should be taken, which will readily show the vessel's position: The clearest channel appears to lie eastward of the Scout and other central patches. To enter steer in about three-quarters of a mile eastward of White Eock and Po Point, on a 160° course, allowing for tide, until past the Scout Patch, then head for the clump of trees south- eastward of Brooke Point on a bearing of 210°. Having passed eastward of the red buoy (if in position), steer for McDougall Point when it bears 243°. This will lead across the bar (according to the chart) and to abreast Moratabas Point. As in all rivers, the deeper water will usually be found in the bends and the dangers off the points. The Nipa palm side has usually deep water, whereas the mangrove trees often have banks off them. From abreast Moratabas Point keep toward the southern shore to avoid Beslcher Eock, which lies on the northern side eastward of Goebilt Pier, built over the Moratabas Eocks. Otter Eock, in mid- channel, has a depth of 1^ fathoms. From McDougall Point (hav- ing given a berth to the 3-fathom patch eastward of it) to Eenard Point there are no dangers known to exist, except the small 3-fathom shore bank, at the entrance of a creek opposite McDougall Point and the shingle bank, which extends a short distance a little east- ward of Eenard Point. Between Eenard Point and Sinjinkat village the mid-channel depths are reported to be only from 3 to 3^ fathoms at low water (the chart shows 5 fathoms) . A bank 400 yards in extent, with 2^ fathoms, is said to lie in mid-channel half a mile above Eenard Point. 90045—15 ^20 306 SrOKTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. The mouth of Eiam River must be avoided, as a spit extends off and continues some way westward of it. A mid-channel course will give plenty of water. When Sinjinkat Hill begins to be hidden by the trees on the south side of the river, that side should be neared a little, in order to avoid a 2-fathom bank which projects from the opposite side. From thence to the Kwop River the only shoal is a patch with 3 to 4 fathoms water on it, lying east of Burney Point in mid-channel. Kwop anchorage. — The best anchorage is in 6 fathoms, with Burney Point 295°, at about one-third the breadth of the river from the south shore. The holding ground from this to the junction is bad. Tide. — The ebb stream runs out of the Kwop River at the rate of 2^ to 3 knots and the flood at 1^ to 2 knots. Beacon. — There is a beacon on Tree Point at the junction of the Kwop and Sarawak Rivers. It is marked " To Kuching." A road leads to Kuching from the bank of the Kwop River, at a place about 800 yards southwest of Tree Point. Signals. — A signal station (white signal mast with yard, and a native hut), in telephonic communication with Kuching, is estab- lished hear Tree Point. A red ball hoisted here indicates that vessels can proceed up to Kuching. A black ball above a shape in the form of an anchor denotes that the incoming vessel must anchor, an outgoing vessel being in the channel. When the latter signal is replaced by a red ball the incoming vessel can leave for Kuching. Rocks. — Near the junction of the Kwop with Sarawak River a rock is said to exist within 20 yards of the left bank of the branch leading to Sarawak (apparently above Burney Point). Pendang Rock is possibly meant, on the right bank. About one-third of a mile above Tree Point, in the Kwop River, is a rock with 3 fathoms water, situated a short distance south- eastward of midstream. Off the first point above, distant half a mile from Tree Point, are the three Blackford Rocks, which show at low water springs, the positions of which have not been accurately determined. Above Kwop anchorage. — Vessels drawing more than 15 feet water or of greater length than 200 feet can not go above the Kwop without incurring considerable risk, as before stated. Directions. — If proceeding up to Kuching without assistance, from Kwop anchorage, keep toward the bend northward of Tree Point, avoiding Pendang Rock, with 6 feet water, at the point of the creek of that name. Continue on that side along the Nipa palms until above Edwards Point; then cross over, keeping to the Nipa palms on that side to avoid the mud bank off Cameron Point, until nearly up to Middle Point. KUCHING. 307 Abreast Middle Point is North Junction Point, with the Santii- bong branch between. It is known as Sarawak Junction. The flood streams meet and the ebb streams separate at this point, requiring care when passing. When nearly up to Middle Point keep in mid-channel to avoid being set toward the bank off North Junction Point. Here the sharp peak of Seol will be seen up the reach leading to Kuching. A short distance above North Junction Point are some rocks with 5 feet water lying about 30 yards from the shore. A notice board, marked " Eocks — keep mid-river," stands on the river bank north of the rocks. From the Junction to Lumley Point the river is clear on both sides, with the exception of a 1-fathom bank, which extends about 20 yards from the shore abreast the huts westward of Bradshaw Point. A short distance to the westward of these huts there is a 2-f athom bank in mid-channel, the deepest water being on the south side of the river, which is therefore the best side to keep until nearing Lumley Point ; then a vessel should keep in mid-channel, between the Bintawak Eocks and the Eowley Eocks, 800 yards above them, on the north shore, and the Prima Donna Eocks and the sand bank fronting the shore westward to Eawley Point, on the south shore, giving a berth to each group when abreast them. There is a notice board on the shore abreast the Bintawak Eocks marked " Eocks — keep mid-river." ' The Bintawak Eocks, dry at low water, and the Prima Donna Eocks have 2 feet over them, both extending about one-third of the distance across the river. The outermost of the three Eowley Eocks Ijias 6 feet water, and lies 90 feet from high- water mark. When Eowley Point is rounded and the next reach is fairly open, edge over to the eastern side of the river, and keep close along it until above Tanah Puti, to avoid Horseshoe Spit, which extends nearly two-thirds of the distance across the river. This spit is com- posed of soft mud and begins to show soon after half ebb. A shingle bank 350 yards in length, with Dido Eocks dry on its western extreme at low-water springs, lies in the fairway abreast Warren Point and the beacon westward of it. The best channel (New Channel) is northward of it. From abreast the beacon, marked " Steer across river," about 600 yards above Tanah Puti, steer across the river for a beacon marked "Hug this shore" on the north side, westward of Warren Point, through New Channel, northward of the shingle bank and Dido Eocks, in depths of about 2J fathoms at low water ; thence steer for the cross-board beacon on the south side of the river, three-quarters 308 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. of a mile above Warren Point, so as to pass southward of Samarang Eocks. The Samarang Rocks, situated on the north side of the fairway, nearly a mile above Warren Point, are 50 yards in length, and uncover about 3 feet at low water springs. About 30 yards east- northeast of them are two flat rocks, one having 5 feet and the other about 8 feet over it at low water springs, rendering the channel northward of the rocks too narrow for safe navigation. A pinnacle rock, with 9 feet at low water, lies 80 yards from the north shore abreast the upper end of Samarang Rocks. A beacon is situated, on the south side of the river, abreast Samarang Rocks, on which is written " Eocks — hug this shore." On the south side of the river, off the sago factory, there are some rocks marked with a beacon, on which is written "' Keep mid- channel." About 200 yards above it is a small sunken rock, and from the shore abreast. Murphy Rocks, which dry at low-water springs, extends 25 yards from low-water mark. The fort, built on a hill 60 feet high, comes in sight after rounding Warren Point. It is a conspicuous object, with a house in it. Some rocks fringe the shore below the fort hill on its western side, and a detached rock lies near the shore between the Rajah's landing place and the creek northward of it. A pinnacle rock, with 5 feet water and steep-to. lies 35 yards off the market landing place at Crookshank Point, with a shallow mud bank extending eastward from the rock. This is a portion of the bank that formerly existed off the point. Considerable change has taken place here and in other parts of the river since it was roughly surveyed. It is reported that in many places there is less water than shown on the chart, notably in the narrows off- Lumley and Warren Points and off Astana. Anchorage. — The best anchorage is a little below the sago fac- tory, in the reach between Samarang Rocks and the fort on north side. As the river is only abojit 200 yards wide, vessels should moor a short distance on either side of mid-river, with a. stern hawser to the opposite shore, to insure swinging in that direction as the tide turns. Vessels must not neglect the precaution of mooring wherever they may select a berth. Only small vessels should go higher up, as the river is narrower, the bottom indifferent, and the tidal streams stronger. Signal. — A black ball hoisted at the jail tow4r signifies that an incoming vessel is in the channel, and no vessel must proceeed down the river until this signal is lowered. When no signal is hoisted the channel is clear. The Santubong Entrance — Depths. — This entrance, situated on the west side of the peninsula, the extreme of which is Tanjong KEA ISLAND. 309 Sipang, is fronted by a bar about 2 miles across, the 3-fathom edge of which is about 5 miles seaward of Pulo Kra, south side of the entrance. The bar has a depth of about 13 feet at low water and 23 feet at high-water springs. From the sandy nature of the bottom or during freshets it is possibly subject to change. It is not available during the northeast monsoon period. The Moratabas Entrance is advisably at all times. Dangers in entrance. — Kra Island lies about a mile southwest of Cross Point, the north side of the entrance. Rainbow Reef and Royalist Rock, both with less than 6 feet water, lie half a mile north- ward of the island, on the south side of the fairway. On the east side of the approach a bank, dry at low water, extends considerably beyond the line joining Alligator and Cross Points. Nap Rocks, covered at high water, lie near its edge. The coast northward of Alligator Point is fronted by sunken rocks, for which and for the dangers in the river, see the plan. Directions. — In approaching the Santubong Entrance from the westward Mount Santubong may be steered for, when bearing 131" until the extreme of Tanjong Sipang bears 75°, when the vessel will be in the fairway for the bar, as charted. If the weather be fine, with the sun shining, the sandy beach behind Kra Island will show very distinctly from 5 miles distant. Southward of Kra are two cones, th6 North and South Haycocks. The North Hay- cock, well open westward of Kra, bearing 160°, leads over the bar and up the fairway to abreast Cross Point at the entrance. With Cross Point bearing about 103°, the river will begin to open out, when course should be gradually hauled to the eastward, steering for the middle of the entrance when it is well open to give a berth to Royalist Rock and Rainbow Reef on the south side. With the flood the turn should be made in good time to avoid being set onto those dangers. The flood also sets eastward across the bar and must be allowed for ; the ebb sets in the contrary direction. The streams increase in velocity directly the river is entered. Between the en- trance and its junction with the Moratabas the eye and the chart must be the guide. The bank fronting Serail River and its off-lying patches extend considerably across the channel; a bank also extends about two- thirds of the distance across the channel from North Junction Point. Above this the vessel will be in the m'ain river, and the sharp peak of Seol will then be seen in the fairway of the river to Kuching, and should be steered for, as directed on page 306, for the river above Kwop anchorage. The tidal streams meet and separate at the junction, requiring care when passing it. 310 XOETHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. Town of Kuching or Sarawak. — ^The principal part of the town is on the south bank of the river, where there is a good bazaar and market. The church and bishop's residence are also on this side of the river; and close to the jail, which stands on Crookshank Point, are the post office, treasury, and other Government offices- The resi- dent lives some distance inland, beind the town; The Astana or house of the rajah, is prettily situated on a small elevation above the fort on the north side of the river, with bunga- lows near it for the use of his staff. Population. — The population of Kuching is about 25,000, con- sisting chiefly of Malays and Chinamen, most of the trade being in the hands of the latter. The Europeans, with their families, number about 120. Position. — The fort on the north side of the river is in latitude 1° 88' 54" north, longitude 110° 20' 47" east. Supplies — Coal. — ^Beef, fowls, sweet potatoes, and other vege- tables can be obtained. Coal can be obtained at Kuching and put on board in Kwop anchorage from lighters. Supplies can be procured in two days by local steamers from the mines in Sadong Kiver, be- low mentioned ; about 300 tons are usually in stock. Seamen are admitted into the Government hospital when neces- sary. Sock. — There is a dry dock large enough to take any vessel coming up the river. iEainfall. — About 160 inches is the mean annual rainfall. Of this amount about 90 inches fall in the months of November to March; the month of least rain is about July, with 5 inches; the maximum about January, with 27 inches. Communication. — There are regular steamers running fort- nightly between Kuching and Singapore. Mails take 25 to 30 days from England. Telegrams are sent by post via Singapore or Labuan. There is a telephone system over Kuching and Upper Sarawak. Coast. — Sadong River is situated about 15 miles eastward of Sarawak and is available for light river craft. The Government coal mines are situated at Simunjan, about 18 miles up the river. These mines are extensiveh^ worked, and the eoal, which is used by the local steamers, is said to be of good quality. Lupar Biiver lies about 12 miles eastward of Sungi Sadong. The river abreast Tiriso Point, 2 miles within the entrance, is about 2 miles wide, with a passage on either side of a low islet in the fair- way abreast. About 3 miles seaward of the island is the inner edge »f the bar, which is about 8 miles in width, with a depth of 7 feet over it at low water. The edge of the 5-:fathom line is charted 17 miles seaward of the low islet in the entrance. BURONG ISLAXD EAJAXG KIVEE. 311 Landmarks.— Burong Island, 350 feet high, lies about 3 miles off the westward point of approach to the river. Bliong Hill, 804 feet in height, is situated on the west side of the entrance, and with West Peak, 1,430 feet in height, midway between it and the Sadong Eiver will serve to easily identify the Lupar. Directions. — The broad bar or mud flat was found to have fairly even depths, but it is aparently a little deeper, and the bottom softer along the south shore. To enter this river, steer in with Burong Island bearing 160°, pass eastward of it at a prudent distance, thence toward and along the southern shore, and on either side of the low islet in the entrance. Most of the points in the river have spits extending off them; the bends therefore should be followed. There is suiEcient water in the river for craft that can pass the bar to reach Palabahan, about 24 miles up. Patusan village is about 18 miles farther up, but the depth of water is apparentUy not more than 3 feet in places. We have no information on this river other than is shown on the chart dated 1844—1848. The bore in this river is dangerous to boats, particularly off Points Nibung, Aboi, and Siduku, and under Mount Tirau, and also in the Linga branch on the turn to Bantang. It comes in with the first of the flood ; boats should seek shelter under the lee of the points when the flood makes. Sarebas B-iver lies 13 miles northeastward of the Lupar. Its entrance has not been surveyed, but Commander Miall, of the British ship Mohawh, of 12| feet draft, 1858, who also entered the Bajang, remarks as follows: The Sarebas is a larger river than tlie Rajang. In charge of a pilot, an Englishman in the employ of the Kajah of Sarawak, we proceeded 40 miles up, though at night. The soundings are regular and deep. The only necessary precaution is to take the bends of the river, avoiding the spits which extend off the points. The pilot did not consider the river sufficiently clear of dangers to proceed farther in the vessel, but the boats went on to the fort, some 30 miles higher up. The last 20 miles is very meandering and narrow, but the water is very deep. Rajang River, in the. neighborhood of which the land is very low, lies about 45 miles northeastward of the Sarawak. It is navi- gable for a vessel of at least 12 feet draft as far as Seriki, 25 miles from its mouth, and probably for short vessels of 20 feet draft. The Mohawh, of 12J feet draft, ascended to that place in 1858, and an- chored off it in 6| fathoms. It is navigable for light-draft steamers to Kapit, 90 miles above Sibal, and about 150 miles above its mouth. The average width of the river is about half a mile, with the ex- ception of the narrow reaches near Seriki, and the general depth 3 to 10 fathoms. There is a depth of 9 feet only at low water, in a 312 NORTHWEST COAST Oli" BORNEO. bend about 45 miles from its entrance, and 7 feet in a rapid about 4 miles below its junction with the Baleh and Balui Rivers. The bar. — The entrance is about 3 miles wide between Jerri Point on the north side and the point abreast it. Within the south point are large islands, which reduce the main river to about a mile in width, in which are depths of 5 to 10 fathoms. The outer edge of the bar, which is about 1 mile across, lies 3 miles seaward of Jerri Point, and has a low water depth of 2^ to 3 fathoms. Directions. — The bar (surveyed in 1847) is apparently fairly even, with not less than 15 feet at low water. The south point of the river (north point of the islands), Sabrang Point within the en- trance, in line with Jerri Point, bearing 94°, was given as the best mark; but from the northward the Lalang branch, seen open, bear- ing 128°, led in in about the same depth. In 1902 Jerri Point bear- ing 114°, which is about midway between the bearings mentioned, was reported to lead in the deepest channel over the bar. Within the bar the water deepens to 5 and 7 fathoms abreast Jerri Point, where vessels may anchor. Proceeding farther up, the bends should be followed, and the points, off which there are gen- erally banks, avoided, as in most rivers. In the narrow reaches near Seriki care is requisite when rounding the points, as also from the strength of the tidal stream. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the mouth of the Rajang at 4h. 45m.; rise from 9 to 13 feet. The tidal streams, both in this river and the Sarebas to the southward, are strong. The town of Sibu, situated about 60 miles above the mouth of the Rajang, is one of some importance. It has a population of about 4,000 ; and the people in the river and its tributaries were estimated at 100,000, and to be steadily increasing. The majority of these are Dyaks. There are two small stations between Sibu and Kapit, at one of which, Kanowit, is a Roman Catholic mission. Trade is carried on by small schooners, with an occasional visit of one of the Rajah's steamers. Timber is also shipped to Hongkong by sailing vessels. Baltii River, above 6 miles northward of the Rajang, is appa- ently unimportant. The shallow bank fronting it extends off to the distance of 3 miles. Palo River, nearly 20 miles northward of the Rajang, is about 1.5 miles wide in the entrance, and fronted by shallow banks to a distance of 4 or 5 miles; a sand islet is situated on the spit which extends about 2 miles northward of the south point. It is appar- ently available for small craft with local knowledge, but it would not be safe to attempt the entrance except in a boat by the present chart. SIKIK CAPE IGAN POINT. 313 Sirik Cape, the Avestern entrance point to the Bruit Eiver, is low, with shallow banks extending to the distance of 5 miles in a westerly direction, and possibly 8 miles to the northward. Vessels should not approach this point into less than 12 fathoms, as the soundings decrease rapidh' from that depth. This point appears to be extending to the northward, and there are trees growing up for some distance beyond the lighthouse in that direction. Light. — From the lighthouse erected near the north extreme of Cape Sirik, a fixed white light is exhibited at an elcA'ation of 80 feet above high water, visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. Tides — Directions. — It is high water, full and change, at Tan- ]'ong Sirik, at 3h. ; springs rise about 11 feet. The tidal streams in the offing set northeastward and southwest- ward, but inshore follow more closely the direction of the coast. WesttPard of Tanjong Sirik they will be found to run north and south with a velocity of 2 or 3 knots an hour : eastward of the cape the flood sets eastward and the ebb westward. This change in the direction of the flood from north to east must be guarded against when coming from the southward around the point. There are tide rips and overfalls near the shallows off the point, especially oi^ the flood. There are no known dangers in the offing eastward of Tanjong Sirik, but working against either monsoon vessels will have more regular tides by keeping toward the coast. They should always be prepared to anchor as soon as it is evident that they can not make ground to windward. Bruit River, eastward of Cape Sirik, is charted 3 miles wide at its entrance, with the village of Bruit on its western side. Two large islands lie in the entrance, on either side of which there ap- pears to be a channel into the river. The bar apparently has about 7 to 9 feet at low water, but there is no information to hand other than that the chart affords. The coast — Aspect — Igan Point. — ^The coast between Igan Point, 20 miles eastward of Cape Sirik, to within 14 miles of Point Tatau, is low, the land cleared in places and in others covered with trees, the tops of which may be visible in clear weather from a dis- tance of about 12 to 15 miles. Villages are situated near the mouths of the several streams which discharge here. A mud bank fronts the shore to a distance of about 2.5 miles, with depths of less than 3 fathoms, but it has not been closely examined. There is; however, no reason for approaching it within a distance of 4 or 5 miles unless beating to windward, when apparently the lead would give sufficient warning of approach to this bank. 814 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOKNEO. A fairway track may be taken at the distance of about 10 miles from the shore, in a depth of about 12 fathoms. Ballang or Igan River trends in a southeast and southerly direction about 50 miles, where it joins the Kajang at Sibu. The entrance is narrow and fronted by the shore bank, with depths of less than 3 fathoms, to the distance of 2.5 miles. The average width of the Ballang River is about two-thirds of a mile, with depths of 3 to 10 fathoms. At about 19 miles below the junction there is only 2 fathoms in mid-river, but there is said to be 4 fathoms close to the right bank. A clump of trees on Igan Point, the west entrance point of the river, bearing 182° until the river was well open, led into the river in 12 feet at average high water, in 1879. The village of Igan or tJri is about 2 miles within on the, northern bank. To the eastward of the Ballang are the Oya, Panuit, and Juda, distant 12.5, 17.5, and 19 miles, respectively, but they have not been sufficiently examined to be navigated except by boats. Caution. — It should be kept in mind that on all the exposed shores of Borneo, where swell prevails, that the stronger the stream of the river, particularly at the last of the ebb, the greater the lia- bility to dangerous topping rollers. The time of half flood should be preferred for entering and the last quarter flood for quitting all rivers having shoals to seaward. Muka River is the next important river in point of trade and population, but it has only a depth of 3 feet in its entrance at low water. To the eastward are the Tembongan, Nipa, and Tiding streams. * Small light. — A masthead light is exhibited at Muka for the use of vessels making the river. Muka town, situated at the mouth of the river, has a population of 8,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in the cultivation of sago. The population of the district is about 20,000. Some 11,000 tons of sago are exported annually. Aspect — Neiam River. — ^The mouth of the Neiam, 32 miles east- ward of the Muka, is obstructed by a bar upon which the depth is only 1| feet. It offers no inducement to enter. Tatau River lies 11 miles eastward of Neiman Eiver and 4 miles westward of Tatau Point. It is a government station, remarkable only for the peculiar mountain which stands within and gives its name to the river. Mount Tatau is said to be 1.890 feet high, and distant 10 miles from the entrance of the Tatau River. It is not shown on the charts. TABLE HILL NIAH EIVEK. 315 Table Hill. — Farther inland, southwestward of Mount Tatau, is a ridge of hills, the most prominent of which is named Table Hill. Between Cape Sirik and this ridge the land is low. Offing Shoals. — Acis Shoals are two coral patches, with depths of 9 and 10 fathoms, discovered by the British ship Acis in 1860. The position of the eastern shoal is latitude 3° 42' north, longitude 112° 42' east. The other shoal lies on the same parallel and 6 miles to the westward. The RifleTnan anchored near the reported positions of these patches and searched for them without success. It is possible they may exist somewhere in that locality. James Shoal, with a depth of 12 fathoms and 22 to 30 fathoms around, lies about 25 miles northAvest of Acis Shoals, as charted. Coast — The Bintulu, another small river, had a depth of .5 feet in the then new channel over the bar, in 1879, with the west point of entrance bearing 148° true. The channel is marked by beacons on either side, but they are not to be depended on, and the bar is dangerous at times. Small craft should enter on the flood. Mount Tatau, to the southwestward, will serve to identify the en- trance. The river deepens within the bar. The town of Bintulu, at the entrance, is a trading station. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Bintulu River at 5h. 45m. ; springs rise about 6 feet. The coast — Kidurong Point. — At 6 miles northeastward of the Bintulu is Kidurong Point, within which fresh water is obtainable from a creek. About 3 miles southward of the point is a round hill named Mount Kidurong. Light. — A beacon light, fixed white, is exhibited from the sum- mit of a hill over Tanjong Kidurong, said to be visible 12 miles in clear weather. Shoals. — The coast thence to Breaker Bay and beyond appears to be fronted by rocky ledges which have not been surveyed. Indeed, this coast, up to Lobong Point, should be avoided within depths of 12 fathoms by day and about 20 fathoms or more by night. The British ship Samarang was about 3 miles off Lobong Point (White Cliffs) when the depths suddenly decreased from 12 to 6 fathoms and heavy breakers, with rocks above water, were noticed some dis- tance offshore. These are described below. Aspect. — The principal objects along this coast are Mount Silungen, or Subis, 1,500 feet in height, southward of Niah town; and Mount Lambier, elevated 1,550 feet, northeastward of Tanjong Batu, nearly 4 miles inland. KTiah River discharges in about latitude 4° north. The town of the same name is situated about 10 miles within the entrance. 316 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. Tanjong Lobong is a cliffy point situated 17 miles northeast- ward of Tanjong Batu. Sunken rocks lie at 2 and 3 miles 238° of Tanjong Lobong; others may exist southward of them. The Luak stream discharges just southward of the point. Generally (in May) a current, setting east-northeast, about 1 knot an hour, was found in the offing. Close inshore the current frequently ran to the southwestward. Miri River. — At 2.5 miles northeastward of Tanjong Lobong is the mouth of the Miri River, on the southern bank of which is the village of Miri, or Marabu, a Government station, where a trade in beeswax and camphor is carried on with Singapore. The entrance to the Miri is barred, and the flat which fronts the shore extends nearly 2 miles off. Light.— A fixed red masthead light is exhibited on Miri Hill, visible about 5 miles between about 67° and 157°. Oil. — Boring operations on a large scale are being undertaken at Miri by the Anglo-Saxon Petroleum Co. Barram Point forms an abrupt bend of the coast and is fringed by a shallow flat to the distance of 3 miles. A rock above water is situated on the flat at about a mile westward of the point. The flat is fairly steep-to on its western side, but to the northward there is a detached bank with 4f to 5 fathoms at about 5 miles offshore. There are apparently no outlying dangers; vessels working up may, there- fore, stretch well off this point to the northwestward, so as to make a good board to the eastward. Light. — A group flashing white light is exhibited from a white house on Point Barram, visible in clear weather at the distance of 12 miles. Reported to be partially obscured (or defective) between 170° and 148°. Barram River discharges into the sea close northward of Barram Point, and takes its source near that of the Eajang. Depths. — ^The bar has a depth at low water of about 4 feet, andr will admit vessels of about 7 feet draft in fine weather. It is dan- gerous at times. The banks on either side are washed away during the northeast monsoon and re-form again during the southwest mon- soon period. Within the bar the river has a depth of from 4 to 5 fathoms, and in some places up river as much as 20 fathoms. It is apparently navigable for steam vessels that can cross the bar at least as far as Claude town, about 60 miles up, and by craft of lighter draft up to Long Salai, some 60 or 70 miles above that town. Here the rapids begin, but the river is navig(ible for native boats many miles beyond. Its principal tributary, the Tinja, is also navi- gable by light steam craft for about 60 or 70 miles above Claude town. CLAUDE TOWN PALAWAN PASSAGE. 317 The land on either side of the mouth consists of alluvial deposits covered with casuarina trees and coarse grass. For the first 15 miles it is devoid of interest, and, being low, is constantly flooded. The banks are bordered by the Nipa palm in places, which attain a height of 30 feet. For the next 15 -miles the land is somewhat higher and covered with grass and jungle, with but few inhabitants. At the mouth of the Bakong are a few farms, with fruit trees and palms. A few miles above, a canal has been cut across a peninsula, shortening the distance for boats by 4 miles. Claude town, about 60 miles from the mouth, is situated on the first high land met with. It is the principal town of the district, a Government station, and possesses a fort, elevated 50 feet above the level of the river, which commands the town. From the fort, Malu Peak, 9,000 feet high, is visible to the eastward. Communication — Trade. — ^A Government steam launch is sta- tioned here for river work. A small coastal mail steamer calls monthly, and other small steamers trade here. Mails are also left at the lighthouse at Tanjong Barram. The products of the district are rattans, gutta-percha, rubber, beeswax, camphor, and edible birds' nests. Gold, cinnabar, silver, antimony, iron, and coal are also found here. Tides, — The flood stream seldom reaches Claude town, and the water is fresh out as far as the bar at times. In April, 1849, a con- tiuous downward current of nearly 3 knots an hour was observed, but the range of the tide was apparently not above 3 feet. Dangers near the main fairway to Palawan Passage. — South. Lucbnia Shoals, the southwesternmost dangers, are steep-to, and may usually be seen by the breakers over them. They comprise a group of five coral reefs, spread over a distance of about 14 miles in an east and west direction. The southernmost shoal, about a mile in extent, is in the form of a horseshoe. Its general depths are from 2 to 3 fathoms, but near the northwest extreme is a rock nearly awash. From this danger Tan- jong Barram bears 106° true, and is distant 83 miles. The westernmost shoal of the group (latitude 5° 1' north, longi- tude 112° 30' east), lying with its southeast end about 283° true, distant 7 miles from the southernmost one, is nearly 2 miles in length and about three-quarters of a mile in breadth. The general depths over it are from 2 to 3 fathoms, but near the southeast ex- treme is a rock just below the surface of the water, and a similar one at the northwest extreme. About 4.5 miles northeastward of the southern shoal is a reef, nearly half a mile in extent, upon which the sea breaks even in fine weather. It is known as the Luconia breakers. 318 iSrOETHWEST COAST OP BORNEO. One mile northeastward of the center of the breakers is a reef, 2 miles in length, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it. About 2 miles westward of it is a patch of 5 fathoms. Sierra Blanca Reef. — A reef over which there is a depth of 2^ fathoms and on which the steamship Sierra Blanca struck in 1908, is reported to lie southwestward of the South Luconia Shoals, in latitude 4° 49' north, longitude 112° 30' east. North Luconia Shoals cover a space nearly 40 miles in length in a north and south direction, and about 15 miles from east to west ; the space between them and the South Luconia Group and also that to the westward has apparently not been sounded, and therefore should be given a wide berth. They were partially examined by the Rifleman, and were found to consist of a mass of coral reefs and shoals, among which no vessel should venture. A depth of not less than 2 fathoms was found on the shoals northward of Seahorse Breakers, but it is quite possible that shallow heads may have escaped the lead. Seahorse Breakers (latitude 5° 31' north, longitude 112° 34' east) , the most conspicuous danger, and the southern portion of the North Luconia Shoals, consist of a reef of rocks just above water, about a mile in length and one-third of a mile in breadth. At about 4 miles southeastward and the same distance southwest- ward are the southern and eastern extremes of reefs, which ai"e nearly always marked by breakers. The southernmost known reef, upon which heavy breakers were seen, is charted 10 miles 168° of Seahorse Breakers. Friendship Shoal is the northernmost of the Luconia Group. The Biflemam^crossed it without getting less than 4r| fathoms, although there appeared to be less depths in some places. The north part of the shoal is approximately in latitude 5° 39' north, longitude 112° 31' east. Louisa Reef, the southwest rock of which was found by the British ship Royalist in October, 1851, to be in latitude 6° 20' north, longitude 113° 18' east, is a dangerous coral reef, two-thirds of a mile in extent, east and west. The rocks are generally covered at high water, with the exception of two clusters on its eastern and southwestern extremes. There is no bottom at 50 fathoms close to its edge. The tidal stream at the Louisa Reef at noon, on the full and change days in the month of October, was setting west-northwest- ward. The maximum rise of tide here appeared to be 4 feet. Royal Charlotte Reef, of a nearly rectangular shape, is about a mile in extent. On the southeastern side are stones 2 to 4 feet above high water in latitude 6° 57' nort'h, longitude 113° 35' east. There are also some on its northeast edge just showing at that time. SWALLOW BEEF ^BBUNI BLUFF. 319 Swallow Reef, formed of a belt of coral surrounding a shallow basin of water, is 3.75 miles in length, east and west, by 1.25 miles in breadth. At its eastern part are some rocks from 5 to 10 feet above high water, the highest of which is in latitude 7° 23' north, longitude 113° 50' east. There are also some rocks on the south- eastern side, always visible.- Ardasier Bank, which is very extensive, has only received a partial examination. It is probable that the South Ardasier, Gloucester, and North Ardasier Breakers, as also the breakers seen in 1860, are shoal patches on different parts of the large bank charted as " Dangerous ground." The southeastern side of the Ardasier, which forms one of the northern limits of the approach to Palawan Passage, was surveyed in the Rifleman. The general direction of this part is east-northeast and west-southwest for a distance of 20 miles, but the outline of the edge is irregular. Several patches of 3 to 5 fathoms were found near the edge. The shoalest part dis- covered had 2^ fathoms water, and lies in latitude 7° 36' north, longitude 114° 10' east, near the position ascribed to South Ardasier Breakers. Viper Shoal, east-southeastward of Ardasier Bank, charted in latitude 7° 30' north, longitude 115° 0' east, was searched for by the Royalist, and also by the Saracen, under good conditions for detect- ing a danger, but nothing to indicate one was observed. For " dangerous ground " northward and northeastward, in- cluded within the dotted line on the chart, see page 374. The coast from Barram Point eastward for 45 rtiiles is very low. and intersected by numerous creeks. At 36 miles from the point is the entrance of Tutong Eiver (Ampa), where there is some trade. This coast has not been sounded, and should be given a wide berth. Bruni Cliffs, composed of sand covered with grass, are situated about 21 miles northeastward of the Tutong River, with some hills cleared of trees and 600 feet high about a mile within. Keti Islet, situated about a third of a mile off the cliffs, is said to be visible at the distance of about 12 miles. About 3.5 miles southwestward is Woody Peak, 650 feet in height, not easily discernible from being nearly the same height as the adja- cent trees. For about 15 miles southwestward of Bruni Cliffs the coast northeastward has not been surveyed. A bank with less than 3 fathoms fronts the coast to the distance of about a mile as far eastward as Bruni Bluff, and there are many off-lying dangers, the principal of which are described below. Bruni Bluff and Pisang Hill. — ^Bruni Bluff is an insignificant sandstone headland, 35 feet high, forming the termination of the range of which Pisang Hill, 540 feet in height and 2 miles within, is the prominent feature. The bluff is covered with trees, which 320 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. makes its entire height about 100 feet. A ledge of rocks, partly cov- ered at high water, extends off the bluff for a distance of half a cable. The coast to the eastward of the bluff forms a bay half a mile deep, the eastern extremity of which is Polompong Point, referred to with Bruni Bay, later. Malu Peak, in the interior, is the highest mountain noticed in this part of Borneo. It rises in a conical form, slightly flattened at the apex, to an elevation of 9,000 feet, can be seen at a distance of 90 miles in clear weather, and is visible from Labuan to about 20 miles southward of Tanjong Barram, a range of 100 miles. Off-lying dangers — Bruni approach — Ampa Patch, of sand and coral, with a least known depth of 4 fathoms, is about 5 miles in length, within a depth of 10 fathoms. The patch of 4 fathoms bears 315°, 17 miles from the mouth of Tutong River. There may be less water, as a depth of 4 fathoms' was said to have been obtained on Ampa Patch by the British ship Magpie, 1883. Another spot of 5 fathoms is charted 4.5 miles nearer the shore, with mouth of river 320°, 12.5 miles. Victoria Patches lie 10 miles 19° from the entrance of the Tutong River, and 5 miles offshore. It is composed of coral, about 2 miles in extent, with heads of 1-| to 3 fathoms. At 1 mile westward there is a patch of 4^ fathoms, with depths of 6 fathoms between. Scout Patch, situated 1.5 miles 19° from Victoria Patch, is com- posed of coral, and has a least depth of 2 fathoms, with 7 to 9 fathoms around. There are several heads with from 2^ to 3^ fathoms water in the neighborhood of Victoria and Scout Patches. Bruni Patches are four or more coral patches about 3 miles in extent, with depths of 2 to 3 fathoms, and 6 to 7 fathoms around. From the south end of the western patch, Keti Islet bears 100°, distant 9.5 miles. Cunningham Patch, with a depth of 3^ fathoms, lies 272°, about 18.5 miles from Keti Island. Blunt Rock, with 2^ fathoms, lies 268°, 10 miles from same island. Amcotts Rock, with 4^ fathoms, lies 354°, 3.5 miles, from Cunningham Patch. About 2 miles eastward of Bruni Patches are two patches with 3 and 4| fathoms, and 7 to 9 fathoms around. Iron Duke Shoals, are situated about 4.5 miles northwest of Bruni Patches and cover an area of about 3 miles. Otterspool Rock, the southeastern extreme, has a depth of 2^ fathoms and lies 296° 30' 13 miles from Keti Island. Nankivell Rock lies 2 miles northwest of Otterspool Rock and has least depth of 4i fathoms. Silk Rock, with 5 fathoms, is 3.3 miles north of Otterspool Rock, and 62° 2.3 miles from the latter rock is a patch with 7 fathoms. About one- half mile east of Silk Rock is a patch with 7 fathoms. LITTLEDALE SHOAL— BH UNI BIVEK. 321 Littledale Shoal, with 4| fathoms, lies 326° 30' 9.25 miles from Keti Island. Champion Shoal, with 3| fathoms, is 355° 4.5 miles from Little- dale Shoal and Colombo Shoal, 19° 1.7 miles from Champion Shoal. There is foul ground between the two latter shoals. A patch with 4 fathoms lies about 2 miles west of Colombo Shoal. Two-fathoms Rock, of that depth, and with 7 to 10 fathoms around, lies with Bruni white cliffs bearing 220°, and Bruni Bluff 119°, distant 6.5 miles. Patches of 2^ fathoms and of 5 fathoms are situated, respectively, 298° 2.75 miles and 360° one-half mile from Two-fathoms Koek. Other shoal heads probably exist in the approach to Bruni Bay. Pelong Rocks, lying 2 miles north of Bruni Bluff, are a group of sandstone rocks, the highest and largest of which is, including bushes, about 73 feet high. Around the rocks there is foul ground, with coral heads, extending northward about 800 yards and south- eastward 600 yards from the highest rock. Abana Rock, a coral patch about 600 yards in extent, on which the steamship Ahana struck in 1898, has over it a least depth of 3 fathoms. It is situated with the largest Pelong Eock bearing 207°, distant 2.5 miles. Buoy. — ^A red conical buoy, surmounted with staff and red globe, is moored on Abana Rock. Not altogether to be depended on. There is a deep-water passage on either side of Abana Rock. Directions — ^Approaching Bruni River and Labuan from the ■westward. — ^There is no known danger in the track between Tanjongs Sirik and Barram; neither are there any in the offing nearer than the Luconia Shoals. Vessels working against the monsoons will find more regular tidal streams inshore, but -they must guard against the indraft on the flood into the several rivers. Between TaJijongs Sirik and Tatan 8 or 7 fathoms will be safe depths to stand into, but between Tanjongs Tatau and Barram it does not appear to be safe to stand into I'ess than 12 fathoms. From Tanjong Barram to Labuan, or to the entrance of Bruni River, it is advisable to keep northwserd of Iron Duke Shoal, Bruni Patches, and Two-fathom Bank, keeping a good lookout aloft for any discolored water, there being several patches, as above men- tioned, shown on the chart farther off, or northward, the positions of which have not been accurately determined. The channel to Bruni Bay, between Pelong Rocks and the patch of 2^ fathoms on the southwest edge of Barat Bank, is 5 miles wide, with depths of 7 to 25 fathoms, except for Abana Rock, described above. 90045—15^ — 21 322 NOKTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Pisang Hill and the islands of Rusukan, Kiiraman and the high land of Labuan afford useful marks, as they can be seen in time to avoid the several shoals, except during thick weather, which seldom occurs on this coast. Vessels of light draft can pass inside Bruni Patches by keeping along the edge of the shore bank in 5 fathoms, but it is not recom- mended. (Directions to Labuan continued on pp. 325 and 334.) Bruni Biver approach — Asi)ect — General remarks. — On ap- proaching the land from the northwest the first object seen in the neighborhood of the Bruni River is Pisang Hill, 540 feet high, and visible in clear weather at a distance of 25 miles. At 14 miles from the coast the trees at Polompong Point come in view, and at 12 miles distant the less compact trees of Muara Island will be seen. A small but important group of casuarina trees, which marks Sapo Point, the southeastern extreme of Muara Island, is not seen until 8 miles distant from them. The aspect of the land about the mouth of the Bruni River is hilly and densely wooded, but in the neighborhood of Sunda Point to the eastward it is low, and covered with mangrove forest without any relieving feature ; mountains rise at the back, but they are many miles away. In clear weather the lofty peak of Gunong Malu, a long distance inland, is plainly visible. The bay which receives the Bruni River incloses also Muara Har- bor, Muara Island, and the joint streams of several small rivers. The greater portion of it is filled up with shallow flats of sand and mud, and extending to the eastward of Polompong Point there is a long and dangerous spit of sand, which makes the approach to any part of the bay circuitous. (See the views taken off the bar on chart.) Caution. — Dead trees and logs of wood are met with many miles from the shore, and after heavy rains in the interior miniature islands of earth and trees float down the rivers, and after advancing and receding with many successive tides, or occasionally becoming fixed during low water on some point or spit, eventually find their way out to sea. Navigable depths. — The distance between Polompong and Sunda, the entrance points, between which the several rivers dis- charge their waters, is 7 miles; but the actual channel is narrowed to one-third of this by Muara and Sunda Spits. The outer bar lies eastward of Muara Spit, and can be crossed at high water by vessels of deep draft, there being a depth of 25 feet at low-water springs and 32 feet at high-water springs in the fairway ; neaps rise 5^ feet. Unless buoyed it is not considered safe for vessels above 24 feet draft, and then only after three-quarters flood and dur- POLOMPOITG POIXT. 323 ing clear weather. Within the bar the depths increase to 6 and 8 fathoms to abreast Sapo Point, Muara Island. The least depth to Brooketon is 13 feet on Muara Bar, with depths of 6 to 7 fathoms off the town. It is available for vessels of 15 feet draft after half flood. Anson Channel, the northern one, has about 7 feet. There is a least depth of about S feet over Bruni Inner Bar ; 15 feet is about the maximum safe draft that can go up at high water at the highest spring tide, and 12 feet at high- water neaps. Iiandmarks. — ^Pisang Hill is the summit and the south extreme of the ridge, 2.5 miles in length, north and south, which commences at Brimi Bluff; it has a well-defined siunmit, which was cleared of trees, excepting one conspicuous tree, by the British ship Merlin, the top of which is about 510 feet above the sea. Cowie Hill. 193 feet in height, on which is the light, is on this ridge, at about 1,400 yards within the bluff. At Cowie Hill are the coal mines, with a tramway to Brooketon, in iluara Bay, about a mile in length. Light. — ^A fixed white light is exhibited from a tripod, 21 feet in height, erected on Cowie Hill, within Bruni Bluff, at an elevation of 218 feet above high water, and is visible in clear weather from a dis- tance of 15 miles. The light is reported to be unreliable. Polompong Point. — ^Eastward of Bruni Bluff the low sandy shore forms a bay, terminating in Polompong Point, 2.5 miles to the eastward, the west point of entrance to Bruni Kiver. It is composed of sand, is nearly awash at the highest spring tides, and is covered with driftwood. On the point is a compact grove of casuarina trees, 70 to 100 feet high, which extends westward for three-quarters of a mile, with trees from about 60 to 90 feet high along shore beyond. Islands and dangers in the entrance. — ^Muara Island, on the west side of the entrance, within Polompong Point, is flat and marshy, 3.5 miles in length by 1 mile in breadth. There are a few inhabitants. The tops of the trees, which are moi-e dense toward the east end of the island, vary in height from 60 to 100 feet. At Sapo Point, the southeastern end of the island, there is a small group of casuarinas, included in which is probably the conspicuous tree shown on the chart, and referred to in next paragraph. There are two beacons, upper parts white, on the extreme of the point. Points for deviation. — ^A stake was driven into the ground at the time of the survey, 204° 18.5 feet from the then easternmost tree on Sapo Point. The summit of Eani Balu Mountain, distant 110 mUes, which is frequently visible between daylight and 8 a. m., bears 52° 56' from it; and the less remarkable Main Peak 191° 54'. These bearings may prove useful to vessels when swinging for deviation of the compasses. 324 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Muara Spit is formed of sand and extends in a 75° direction from Polompong Point for a distance of 4.5 miles. As far as 2.25 miles from the point it is awash at low water spring tides ; the depths then increase by a series of irregular banks to 12 feet at the end of it. Off the extreme eastern point of the spit there is a depth of 6 to 7 fathoms, mud. A tide ripple generally marks' the end of the bank. At the extreme of the spit at the time of the survey Sapo Point was in line with the eastern side of Burbonet Island. Sunda Point, nearly 4.5 miles east-southeastward of Muara Island, forms the east point of entrance to Bruni Eiver. It is low, and covered with forest, the tops of the trees varying in height from 70 to 100 feet. The coast on either side is fringed with mangrove and bordered with soft mud, beyond which is Sunda Spit. The promontory, of which Sunda Point is the northwestern ex- tremity, appears to be a sort of delta with many streams running through it. The land rises slightly away from the coast, attaining a height of about 150 feet. Trunsan River, situated one-third of a mile southwest of Sunda Point, is the principal stream in this locality. It is about 150 miles in length, and rises near the source of the Limbang Eiver. Steam vessels of 6 feet draft can enter at high water by taking the course marked on the plan over Sunda Flat. Sunda Spit, composed of sand and mud, dry at low-water springs, extends 2.5 miles northwest of Sunda Point; at 600 yards beyond it there is a depth of 5 fathoms. The flat to the northeastward, forming the eastern side of the entrance to Bruni Eiver, is named Sunda Bank. Outer Bar — Fairway dangers.— Outer Bar, between Muara Spit and Sunda Bank, is about 2.75 miles wide, with a bottom of sand, and some mud in the deepest part. At the distance of three-quarters of a mile, and also at 1.5 miles southeastward of the northeast extreme of Maura Spit, are a number of sand knolls; at the lesser distance the least depth found was 13 feet, and at the greater 17 feet. The channel eastward of them is about 1 mile wide, with a fairway depth of about 25 feet. With buoys laid down, vessels drawing 27 feet can cross at high water, but without buoys it is not safe for a vessel with a draft exceeding 24 feet, and then only at three-quarters flood, for it is possible that the knolls of sand do not remain exactly in the same positions after the freshets. Tides. — The times and the heights of the tides on the Outer Bar are believed to be the same as at Muara Harbor. The flood stream on the Outer Bar sets in IJ hours after low water, and the ebb stream runs out about IJ hours after high water, the rate at springs LABUAN TO BKUNI. 325 being from 2 to 3 knots. To seaward of the bar the direction of the tidal streams has not been determined. Between the bar and Sapo Point the flood generally sets to the southwest ; the ebb to the north- east. Caution. — It is necessary that strict attention should be paid to the sextant angles mentioned in the following directions. Vessels of 20-foot draft and upward should not attempt the passage over the Outer Bar unless the islands' referred to are plainly visible. Directions. — -Vessels of the draft just mentioned proceeding from Labuan to Bruni, having passed between Pappan and Enoe, should steer 200°, keeping the west extreme of Pappan bearing eastward of 22° until the east extreme of Rusukan Besar is in line with the west extreme of Kuraman, bearing 332°. At this position Belong Rocks should bear 270° southerly, and the angle between Pisang Hill and Pelong Rocks should be 24°. Or, coming from the westward and having passed northward of Pelong Rocks, steer to the eastward with the rocks astern, bearing 270°, until the above-mentioned position is attained. This position is marked on the plan. From the above position make good a course 177°, with Burong Island astern on that bearing. After proceeding 1 mile the angle between Pisang Hill and the summit of Pelong Rocks should be kept at about 25° 15'. It must not be allowed to become less than 24° 45' or more than 25° 45' until the marks next mentioned are on to avoid Sunda Bank to the east- ward and the sand knolls, with 17 feet water, to the westward. When Sapo Point comes in line with the summit of Jaja Ridge, bearing 241° (see sketch A on plan, but the bushy tree is no longer conspicuous) , steer for those objects in line. At the point of turning the west extreme of Rusukan Besar should bear 337°, and the angle between it and the new marks should be 95°- [In lieu of the above marks Churmin Island, one and one-fourth times its own apparent breadth open of Sapo Point, is a good mark for going out, but is not always to be distinguished when going in, depending muph on the position of the sun. — Flora, 1909.] When within 1 mile of Sapo Point steer to round it at a distance of 400 to 600 yards, and anchor as directed below. Vessels of 17-foot draft and under may cross the Outer Bar when Sapo Point tree is in line with the distant peak to the south of Kin- dana Hill, bearing 228°. (See sketch D on plan.) Continuing on that line they will pass close eastward of the edge of the long spit which projects in a northeasterly direction from Sapo Point. With Sapo Point distant about 1 mile, they should steer to pass it at a distance of about 400 yards and anchor under it as convenient. 326 NORTHWEST COAST OP BORNEO. Vessels of 12-foot draft and under having nothing to apprehend when crossing any part of the Outer Bar, even at low water, may round Muara Spit by the safety angle, 30° between Pisang Hill and Pelong High Eock, and steer south until they are on the marks for clearing the spit northeast of Sapo Point. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage, protected from the sea, southward of Muara Island, in 7 to 8 fathoms mud, with Sapo Point, bearing 24°, distant from 600 to 800 yards. (See enlarged scale of anchorage on plan.) Directions for Muara Bar and Harbor will be found on page 327. Muara Harbor, situated between Muara Island and the coast to the westward of it, is co'mpletely sheltered. It is 3 miles in length, from 400 to 800 yards in width, and has depths of 3 to 8-^ fathoms, mud bottom. Tides. — The tides in Muara Harbor are influenced by a large diurnal inequality, which varies daring the lunation. The highest high tide of one day is succeeded by the lowest low tide (this is an in- variable rule) ; then follows a lesser high tide and a higher low tide. The higher low water takes place on an average about 3 hours after the lower high water. The difference between the heights of this, lesser high tide and higher low tide is frequently only a few inches, and occasionally disappears altogether, causing only one high and one low water in each day ; about neaps the tides are very irregular. It is high water, full and change, at llh. Om. ; springs rise from 4J to 7J feet; neaps rise 5^ feet, and range 2 to 3 feet. The range of the tide depends upon the phase of the moon and on her declination. The greatest range (i. e., best defined spring tide) occurs when the moon is full or new, at the same time that she attains her highest declination north and south. At the spring tides occurring after the moon has attained north declination, the higher high tide succeeds the moon's inferior transit'; whilst at those occurring after the moon has attained south declina- tion, the higher tide follows the moon's superior transit. When the sun has south declination, the higher tides about springs occur during the night, and when the sun has north declination prob- ably during the day. The tidal streams set with the direction of the coast .at a speed of 2 knots at springs. The flood stream sets in a southerly direction, commencing about one hour after low water ; and the ebb stream to the northward and eastward commencing about a quarter of an hour after high water. Muara Bar, the best and most frequented entrance to Muara Har- bor, is the channel through the flat connecting the southwest end of ANSON PASSAGE. 327 Muara Island with Padukan Island, and forming the northwest side of Bruni Channel. It is distant about a quarter of a mile from Muara Island, and has a depth of 13 feet at low-water spring tides, but the part where this depth is to be found is very narrow, and the directions must be carefully attended to. It is available for vessels of 15 feet draft after half flood; if kept properly marked those of deeper draft could use it, as the water is always smooth and the bot- tom soft mud. A vessel of 17 feet draft has crossed the bar. (See enlarged scale of bar on plan.) Beacons. — The channel over the bar is marked by red posts sur- mounted by casks on the south side of the channel, and white posts, with similar topmarks, the north side of the channel ; beacons mark both sides of the narrowest part of the channel, but they are not to be depended on. A pilot is advisable on a first visit. Directions. — From the anchorage abreast Sapo Point steer along the south coast of Muara at the distance of about 500 yards toward Muara Bar ; thence between the red posts on the port hand and white posts on the starboard hand. Sarasap village, on the coast, bearing 302°, is the best mark that can be given for crossing the bar should the beacons be gone. When within the bar keep the village ahead on that bearing until within half a mile of it, then up the fairway to Muara Harbor, where there is anchorage off Brooketon in 7 to 8 fathoms, mud. Anson Passage, leading to Muara Harbor, northward of Muara Island, is available for small vessels of less than 9 feet draft. It has only a depth of 7 feet, sand bottom, in some parts at low-water spring tides, and is supposed to be marked by two beacons, as on the plan. Three-quarters flood is the best time to enter. Settlement. — On the western shore is Brooketon village, occupied by the employees of the company who work the coal mines. Observation spot. — The seaward corner of the northeastern house of the village was used as an observation spot by the Rambler, and its position was ascertained to be latitude 5° 1' 38" north, longitude 115° 4' 17" east, depending oti Manila cathedral being in 120° 58' 6" east. Pier. — The pier at Brooketon has a depth of 14 feet alongside the end, at low-water spring tides; one small vessel can lie alongside. The piles of the pier, which are slight, must not be used for haul- ing in. Coal is obtained from the mines under Cowie Hill, in the range extending from Bruni Bluff to Pisang Hill, about 1 mile from Muara Harbor, before mentioned. The mines, which are consid- ered to be practically inexhaustible, are connected by a tramway 328 NOETHWEST COAST OF BOENBO. with the pier. The coal is light, very friable, but of good quality. Quantities from 500 to 2,000 tons are kept in store, under cover. One hundred tons can be put on board a vessel alongside the pier in 12 hours. Two 80-ton schooners and a small tug are available for coaling vessels at the anchorage, and 100 tons can be put on board in 12 hours, the coal being taken off in bulk. Oil wells were reported to exist in this neighborhood. Supplies. — ^Beef could be procured at Muara, but no bread or vegetables. Water was obtainable of good quality at a charge of about $1 a ton at the time of the survey, but " Sources of supply," 1911, give nothing. Bruni River — Approach to Inner Bar — Islands and dan- gers. — -The coast, southward of Muara Harbor, trends irregularly southwestward 6 miles to the mouth of Bruni River. Below Pisang Hill there is a deep bight, which affords an outlet for transporting coal, a seam having been found on the western slope of the hill, which can be easily approached by boats at high water. Between Muara and the mouth of the Bruni Eiver there are three islands off the coast, viz: Padukan, Ingaran, and Churmin, the former being abreast the bight mentioned, and the two latter on either side of Bruni Bar. Padukan Island, half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in breadth, is densely wooded and slightly elevated in the middle, making the tops of the trees in that part about 100 feet above high water. Oyster Rocks. — Between Padukan and the mangrove point to the southwest of it is a shallow flat, which can be crossed by boats only at high water. A cluster of rocks is situated 900 yards southwest of the island and continues thence to the coast. The highest rocks show 2 feet above high water. Ingaran Island, 1,200 yards in length and 1 cable in breadth, is densely wooded, the tops of the trees being about 120 feet above the sea. Coal is visible here. Within Ingaran there is a narrow strip of comparatively deep water, which terminates 200 yards to the north of the island, and is therefore of no use as a means of evading Bruni Inner Bar. Beacon-^Ingaran Spit projects from the north coast of Ingaran Island in an east-northeast direction for 1,800 yards, is composed of sand and mud, and dries at low-water spring tides. A beacon of poles is charted 700 yards 238° from its extreme. Peaked Rock is the highest of a small group of rocks situated 150 yards' south of Ingaran Island. It is 2 feet high and the only one which is not covered at high water. Churmin Island is 500 yards in length by 200 yards in breadth, and densely wooded. At its south end there is a large clump of JAJA EIDGE — BEUNI CHANNEL. 329 trees, the tops of which are about 90 feet high. Near the center of the island there is a tree of about the same height, and a useful mark for Bruni Bar at the time of the survey. Jaja Biidge. — Westward of Ingaran Island the range of hills extending southward from Bruni Bluff attains a higher elevation and approaches the river, trending parallel to the bank for some miles. This range, known as the Jaja Ridge, is steep, densely wooded, and has some prominent peaks, on one of which at the time of the survey stood a conspicuous bushy tree, 537 feet above high water, which attracted attention from the northeastward and was one of the leading marks for vessels crossing the Outer and Bruni Bars. Other trees have grown up around it, but as it is the summit of the ridge the latter will answer the same purpose. Kindana Hill. — River Point, on the east side of entrance to Brimi River, is well marked by Kindana Hill, which is densely wooded and has a conspicuous clump of trees on its summit, the top of which is 516 feet above high water. It is conspicuous from seaward and may be recognized at a distance of 20 miles in clear weather. Mounts Say and Hamilton, two conspicuous peaks, 760 feet and 730 feet high, respectively, are situated about 7 miles southwestward of Kindana Hill. They are much alike in appearance, both being densely wooded, with sharp summits; and are conspicuous from the northeastward in any position where they can be seen clear of Jaja Ridge or the Kindana Hill. Baru Baru Islands are two islands lying 1.5 miles eastward of Kindana Hill. They each have a somewhat conspicuous clump of trees, that on the northern island being 125 feet, and that on the southern being 121 feet high. Rambler Banks extend about 6.5 miles northeastward of River Point and the Baru Baru Islands, to within a third of a mile of Muara Island. They are from 2.5 miles to 1.5 miles in breadth, tapering to the northeastward, dry in places at low water, and have numerous fish weirs on them. The north and west sides of the banks form the south side of entrance to Bruni Channel. Clearing mark. — Pisang Hill in line Avith Bowong Point bearing 290°, leads northward of Rambler Banks, in 17 feet. Bowong Point might possibly be growing out, in which case, with the objects in line, the depth would be less. Sapo point 30° true leads eastward of the banks. Bruni Channel — Wavigable depth. — The approach to Bruni Channel is close southward of Muara Island, between it and Ram- bler Banks. Vessels drawing 18 feet can ascend the Brimi Channel as far as Ingaran Spit, about 9 miles below Bruni ; and vessels up to 24 feet draft could proceed so far by buoying the channel and choos- ing the time of high watpr for moving. Kindana and Pisang Hills 330 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORXEO. and Sapo Point will be good marks for laying the buoys. It is better, however, except in a case of emergency, for all vessels draw- ing over 15 feet (the maximum safe draft for Bruni Bar) to remain at Sapo Point. Bruni Channel, from abreast Muara Bar, is 4 miles in length, with a navigable width of about 400 yards, the shallowest part and also the narrowest being at its entrance, abreast Muara Bar, where the distance between the 3-fathom line on either side is, in one place, only 300 yards, and the depth 19 feet. It is this part which presents the greatest difficulty to navigation, as the tidal streams often set across the course, and unless Churmin tree and Mounts Say and Hamilton are clearly in view no vessel should attempt to proceed. Directions from Sapo Point to Bruni Inner Bar. — From abreast and 600 yards distant from Sapo Point, steer 272° for nearly 2 miles, parallel to the coast. When Churmin tree is in line with Mount Say, bearing about 230° ; steer 241° into Bruni Channel, until Pisang Hill bears 303°. From this latter position steer 233° up the channel until Churmin tree is in line with Mount Hamilton, bearing 224°, then steer with these marks in line. Anchorage. — If not intending to cross Bruni Inner Bar, anchor on the leading mark last mentioned, or near it, in about 20 feet, mud, with Ingaran Spit beacon bearing 283°. In the exceptional case of vessels of more than moderate draft approaching the bar, it will be necessary to anchor on the leading mark further north- ward. Bruni Inner Bar is the chief obstacle in the approach to the town of Bruni, 9 miles above it. It extends from Ingaran Spit to Chur- min Island, a distance of 1.5 miles, and its chief features are the North Bar Bank, the South Bar Bank, and the Barrier. The Barrier is visible at low water spring tides, but the others never dry. The Barrier is of ancient origin, dating back probably at least 300 years, to the time of the Chinese occupation. It is composed of loose bowlders, and is crescent shaped, begining at about 200 yards from the eastern shore of Ingaran Island and terminating 1,200 yards southward. A tide ripple usually indicates its position. Off the south end of the Barrier there is a remarkable hole of deep water, as much as 80 feet found in it. There are two channels over the bar. The Northwestern Channel, over Bruni Inner Bar, between North Bar Bank and Ingaran Spit, although longer and more tortu- ous, and with a foot less water than Simpson Channel, was formely the one commonly used. When surveyed the shallow portion ex- tended over a length of about 150 yards only ; the least depth was 7^ SIMPSON CHANNEL. 331 feet over a mud bottom, at low water springs, which gave about 12 feet at high water neaps, and about 15 feet at high water, ordinary springs. This channel is said to have silted up (1901), and later, in 1910. The beacons which are intended to mark this channel are difficult to make out at times, and liable to be knocked down ; they are there- fore not to be depended on. The shallow banks are usually covered with fishing stakes. Several of them are missing, and are not shown on the plan. No directions are offered for it. Simpson Channel, the southeastward channel over Bruni Inner Bar, into Bruni River, lies between North Bar Bank and South Bar Bank, both of which have fishing stakes on them. It is nearly straight, and has about 8 feet at low water, with mud bottom, but is only from 50 to 100 yards wide, and the shallow ground extends for 1,400 yards. It is unmarked. The landmarks, however, are good, and it is the safest channel to adopt, both when entering and leaving the river. At high water spring tides, when day tides are the highest (April to October), it is possible to force a steam vessel drawing 17 feet over the bar by Simpson Channel, with her keel in the mud; how- ever, 15 feet should be considered the maximum safe draft at high water highest spring tides, 13^ feet at high water lowest spring tides, and 12 feet at high water neaps. Local trading steamers fre- quently cross with their keels in the mud. This channel is said to be subject to alternation. The British ship Plover, in June, 1900, obtained 15 feet least water when crossing the bar, and the same depth was found by the Bramile in October of that year upon carefully sounding it (presumably at high water). A least depth of 15 feet at high water neaps was found by the British ship Clio, in* December, 1910. The channel is said to be con- siderably broader than formerly. Directions. — The leading mark for Simpson Channel — namely, Churmin tree in line with Mount Hamilton 224° — ^is the same as for approaching it from Padukan Island (see view on plan and view B on 2134) . Above Ingaran Spit Beacon the channel becomes narrow, and the leading mark must be closely kept. The banks on either side are usually marked by fishing stakes. Haul to the southward in time to steer for Kindana Hill, bearing 208° (when the beacon off south extreme of barrier, if in position, will be in line) to avoid the eastern side of the barrier. Haul close around southward and west- ward of this beacon, and give Churmin Island a berth of 300 yards to avoid Churim Eock, and thence haul south westward along the western shore, where the water is deeper. Careful attention to the 332 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. helm and engines are necessary in the several reaches within the river on account of whirls and eddies of the tide. One advantage of Simpson Channel over the Northwestern is that vessels using it are nearly independent of beacons. The only one which need be regarded is that off the south extreme of the barrier ; and if, at any time, this beacon were down, a boat might be substi- tuted for it. On leaving Bruni River a vessel should not alter course to the eastward to approach the end of the barrier until the north end of Baru Baru Islands is seen opening northward of Churmin Island. Pass close southward of the barrier beacon and reverse the direc- tions for entering. Pilots. — ^There are no licensed pilots for Bruni Eiver, but it is not difficult to obtain a competent person to act as pilot. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage off the sultan's palace, in a depth of 7 fathoms, with sufficient swinging room for vessels 170 feet in length. For the reason given in the remarks about the town below, it would be desirable to get as far from the houses as possible. The British ship Clio, 1911, anchored in the fairway off Kianghi River, in 6 fathoms, mud bottom, and states there is suitable anchor- age off the residency lower down. Bruni. — The town, situated 9 miles within the bar, is probably- the largest in the island of Borneo. The sultan of Bruni resides here ; also a British resident, who has powers to control the general administration of the State of Bruni. There is also a Sikh and Malay police force. The town is remarkable from being entirely built upon piles in the center of a lakelike enlargement of the river. The population is about 10,000. The houses are mostly in a dilapidated condition, and the accumulation of the filth of centuries thrown from the houses into the shallow water, in which most of them stand, produces most unpleasant results at low water. The Chinese shopkeepers have re- moved to the mainland, between the palace and Kianghi River, where they have built a new town. During the year 1 903 there was an outbreak of an epidemic resem- bling cholera, which carried off one-third of the inhabitants of the town of Bruni. Supplies. — Fresh water may be obtained at the town standpipes ; also from a spring near the mouth of the Kianghi. The market of Bruni is in the New Chinese town, near the palace. It furnishes supplies of poultry, eggs, deer, fish, fruit, vegetables, etc. Money, iron bars, colored and plain cottons, etc., are all of value in exchange. Bullocks can be obtained through Ihe Kadyans or Dyak race of this region, the Malays not being a pastoral or farming race. BRUNI. 333 Trade. — The exports from Bruni town in 1910 were valued at $327,624. About 20 vessels, exclusive of coasting craft, enter the port an- nually. Communication. — There is communication frequently by small steam craft with Labuan. Telegrams are sent by steamer to Labuan, which is connected with Singapore, Hongkong, Sandakan, etc. Limbang River — Approach. — Southward of Sapo Point, Muara Island, and separated from Bruni Channel by Rambler Banks, there is a straight navigable channel, with a depth of about 6 fathoms for some distance, which is the means of communication between several small rivers and the sea. The most important -of these streams is the Limbang River, which is reported to have 11 to 12 feet on its bar at high water. The channel to it, within the limits of the survey, is safe for vessels of 20 feet draft ; but it is said by those who have explored it farther to the southward that it rapidly becomes shal- lower a short distance above the area surveyed. (See plan 2134. 'r The source of the Limbang is about 150 miles inland. Bruni Bay, between Pdlompong Point, west side of entrance to Bruni River and Kalias Point, is 21 miles wide, with depths of 14 to 20 fathoms. The Labuan Group of islands lies in the entrance. Eastward of Sunda Bank the 3-fathom bank fronting the shore ex- tends about 1.5 miles off as far eastward as Lawus or Benkulet River, beyond which it extends but a short distance. Padas Bay, in the eastern corner, is shallow, and fronted by a bank to the distance of at least 2 miles; thence to Kalias Point it extends from 1 to 2.5 miles off, apparently, but it has not been properly surveyed. The Trusan, Benkulet, Mangalong, Sipitong, Lukutan, Padas, Kalias, and many other rivers discharge into Bruni Bay. The Trugan, the westernmost, has been mentioned. Padas River is navigable for a considerable distance by craft of light draft, having on its banks many sago plantations which are a source of considerable wealth to the inhabitants of its district. Kalias River, at the north extreme of Bruni Bay and eastward of Daat Island, is fronted by shallow flats to the distance of about 3 miles, and which extends southwestward to Pappan Island. The British ship Algerine, 8 feet draft, steamed about 16 miles up, to Kalias village. Railway — Telegraph. — From Westoh, in Padas Bay, there is a railway and telegraph to Beaufort, and thence to Jesselton in Gaya Bay, the whole length being 110 miles. From Beaufort a branch line runs inland to Fort Birch. Submarine cable. — Between the mouth of the river and Kalias Point is Mempakol, the landing place of the submarine cable from 334 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Singapore ; from thence there are land lines to Sandakan, etc. There is a flagstaff at the station and landing jetties. Labuan Island — General remarks. — Labuan Island, situated about 5 miles off the west coast of Borneo, is about 10 miles in length by about 5 miles in maximum breadth, with an area of about 30 square miles. Some small islands lie off its southwest and southeast sides. Labuan possesses a good harbor, named Victoria, available for all classes of vessels. Aspect — Beacon — Landmark. — The north end of Labuan is the highest part of the islaaid ; its summit, 334 feet in height, has a beacon on it, a mast surmounted by a barrel. A chimney, conspicuous when approaching from the northward, is situated on Coal Point, at a distance of 1,600 yards eastward from the beacon. When seen from a distance from the north the island appears as two peaks of about equal height. It is surrounded by sandstone cliffs, and an extensive reef stretches oft' the northern point ; a continuation of this surrounds the island, offering occasional breaks admitting boats. The southern portion of the island is marshy, and intersected by streams, and off it are the Kuraman and Rusukan Islands. A large portion of the island is covered with thick jungle, consisting princi- pally of trees from 100 to 120 feet high. Trade. — Extensive coal measures exist in the north part of the island, worked by the North Central Borneo Co., the output from which, in 1909, amounted to 61,855 tons; 57,268 tons were exported, about half of which was for bunkering purposes. The mines, which employ about 1,500 workmen, are connected with the wharf at Vic- toria Harbor by a railway, about 8 miles in length. About 6,250 tons of coal were imported from the Brooketon collieries, Bruni, in 1909 ; all reshipped. Trade also consists in the exchange of cloth, rice, crockery, iron- ware, etc., for the produce of Borneo and the neighboring islands, consisting of gutta-percha, india rubber, rattans, birds' nests, canes, wax, sago, etc. There are four sago manufactories in the island, and good timber is abundant. Communication. — Labuan is connected with Singapore and Hongkong by submarine cable and with Sandakan and Darvel Bay by land lines across Borneo from Mempakol, on the mainland. Mail communication from England fortnightly via Brindisi, and by French packet to Singapore. Three steamers run four times a month between Singapore, and North Borneo ports, touching at Labuan. LABUAN. ^ 335 4'. The Sarawak Government steamer runs once a fortnight between Kuching and Labuan. Supplies. — Fresh beef is plentiful at Labuan; also bread, vege- tables, fruit, and fish are obtainable. Water is brought down in pipes to the piers in Victoria Harbor. The supply is ample, but the quality only fair. Rifle range. — There is a rifle range situated at Collier Head, where firing was formerly carried out by the seamen of British men-of-war under service requirements. It is now used by the local police. Standard time. — ^The standard time kept at Labuan is that of the meridian of longitude 120° east, or 8 hours fast on mean time at Greenwich. Climate. — ^Eemittent and intermittent fevers occasionally prevail, but are of a mild type. The European ward in the civil hospital at Victoria has accommodation for two or three persons, and sailors will be received there if necessary; 32 cases of malarial fever were treated in hospital, as compared with 52 in 1907. The drainage of Victoria has been much improved. The average mean temperature for the year is 82°, the absolute maximum, in September, being 97°, and the minimum, in the same month, 71°. January is about the coolest month, the maximum being 87° and the minimum 72° ; 93° and 72°, respectively, were re- corded in 1908. The maximum daily range is 16° and the mean 10.7°. Rain falls in every month of the year. The annual rainfall is 136 inches; about 16 inches is the fall per month from about August to October, decreasing to 5 and 6 inches in February and March ; 165.07 inches fell in 1908, and 114 in 1909. Winds and weather. — The weather at Labuan is generally very fine; the land and sea breezes are seldom interrupted. Rain gen- erally comes off the coast of Borneo in squalls, which most fre- quently occur between 8 p. m. and midnight, and blow heavily, especially in June and July. In the southwest monsoon the land breeze, which usually commences with these squalls, lasts until 7 or 8 a. m. and is a steady fresh breeze, while in the northeast monsoon it is light and variable, but if blowing hard in the China Sea the land wind is not felt at Labuan. The sea breeze in the southwest monsoon usually commences at noon and lasts until 4 or 5 p. m., seldom exceeding a force of 4; but in the northeast monsoon it commences earlier and lasts until 7 or 8 p. m., hanging well to the northward and blowing fresh. Victoria Harbor, on the southeast side of Labuan, is well shel- tered in both monsoons. It has general depths of 6 to 7 fathoms over a bottom of stiff mud, decreasing gradually as the head of the harbor is approached. '336 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Islands and dangers in the southern approach. — Barat bank, about 1.5 miles in length and a mile in breadth, has depths of 2^ to 3 fathoms over it, and is steep-to on its north and west sides. The southwestern patch, of 2^ fathoms, lies with Kusukan Besar bearing 55°, distant 3.6 miles. Light buoy. — A small white conical buoy showing an occulting white light is placed on this 2|-f athom patch. At 1 mile southward from the above 2^-fathom patch there are depths of 7 and 8 fathoms, between which and Abana Eock lies a deep channel 1.5 miles in width. Rusukan Islands.— Eusukan Besar, 175 feet high to the tops of the trees and one-third of a mile in extent, is the outer island off Kiamsan Point, the southwest point of Labuan, from which it is" distant 4 miles in a southerly direction. A rock, which breaks at times, lies 1,200 yards 204° of it, between which and the island the ground is foul and there are several patches which dry. A patch of 5^ fathoms lies southeast from the island, distant about | mile from the rock. A patch of 2J fathoms lies 1 mile 109° of the island. Rusukan Kechil, 146 feet high to the tops of the trees, lies about a mile north-northeast of the larger island. Both are covered with trees and surrounded by reefs, dry in places, and extending nearly to that surrounding Kuraman Island. Kuraman Island, 326 feet high to the tops of the trees, lies between the Eusukan Islands and Kiamsan Point, and is 2 miles in length northwest and southeast by about half a mile in breadth. A clump of trees on the south extreme is conspicuous from the west- ward. The land northward of this clump has been cleared for some distance, but there are a few large trees on the summit. Light. — On the summit of Kuraman Island there is shown from a white frame tower with red dome, 215 feet above high water, a flashing white light visible 21 miles. It is obscured from northeast by Labuan Island. Reef.— A sunken reef, half a mile in extent, lies 1.25 miles 204° of its south point, with foul ground between. The reef surrounding the island extends three-quarters of a mile southeast, half a mile north, and about a third of a mile east of the coast of the island. Kiamsan Point has a reef, dry in places, extending three-quarters of a mile 204° of it, at which distance there is a rock which dries i foot. Kuraman Channel, between Kiamsan Point and Kuraman, be- tween the 5-fathom contours, is reduced to a width of 1,200 yards, with irregular depths of 6 to 20 fathoms. Undaunted Rock, a small coral head about 20 yards in extent, with a least depth of 2 fathoms, lies in the center of Kuraman Chan- BURONG ISLAND DAAT ISLAND. 337 nel, with the northwestern extremity of Kuraman Island bearing 253°, distant 1.3 miles, and the southeast extreme of the same island 172°. Vessels without local knowledge are recommended not to use this channel until it has been properly surveyed. Burong Island, with the tops of its trees about 180 feet above high water, lies between Kiamsan Point Shoals and Trident Shoal. Depths of less than 5 fathoms extend about 200 yards from all sides, beyond which the depths of from 5 to 7 fathoms. Enoe Island and Beacon. — The shoal surrounding Enoe Island, situated on the west side of approach to Victoria Harbor, consisting of sand with occasional patches of rocks and stones, extends 1,400 yards to the northward, 1,800 yards to the westward, 700 yards to the southward, and 600 yards to the eastward of the island, and is steep-to. A black post beacon, surmounted by a red triangle, is placed on its northeast extreme in 4 fathoms water, with the summit of Enoe bearing 219°, distant 1,350 yards. Enoe Spit lies 234°, distant 1.5 miles from the island. The bay in the south side of Labuan is almost filled by a reef which extends 1.5 miles offshore. Trident Shoal, lying 207°, nearly a mile from Enoe Island, is composed of coral, 400 yards in length and 100 yards in breadth, with a least depth of 6 feet. The north extreme of Daat Island, touching the south end of Pappan, leads southward, and the white post on Ramsay Point, well open eastward of Enoe, leads eastward of Trident Shoal. The white light of Pappan Light also clears it. Outer shoal, in the southern fairway to the harbor, between Pap- pan and Enoe Islands, is of coral, 200 yards in extent, with 3 feet least water near its center. A black buoy is moored on the shoal, with Pappan Light 86° 30' distant 1,750 yards. Vessels should give the buoy a berth of 300 yards in passing. The passage between Outer Shoal and Pappan Island Shoal is 1,200 yards wide, and has depths of not less than 10 fathoms. The passage between it and Enoe Beacon is 800 yards wide, and has from 6 to 10 fathoms. Pappan Island, flat and covered with trees, the tops of which are 124 feet above high water, is surrounded by a shoal which extends 200 yards from the north, 400 yards from the west, and 600 yards from the south side. To the eastward it is separated by a small passage, 100 yards wide, from the reefs extending from Daat Island and the main coast of Borneo. Daat Island, about 1.5 miles in length, with the tops of its trees about 240 feet above the sea, is situated on the flat which extends from Kalias Point nearly to Pappan Island, or for about 4.5 miles, 90045—15 22 338 NOETHWBST COAST OF BORNEO. with boat passages on either side of it for those with local knowledge. Near Pappan, at the end of this flat, are several rocks, as charted, above and below water. Harbor Shoal, lying on the western side of the fairway of the harbor, is a coral patch, 100 yards in extent, with 1.25 fathoms water. A white buoy is placed on its center, with the white post on Ramsay Point bearing 19° distant, 1,250 yards. Vessels may pass on either side of this shoal at a prudent distance. The shores of the harbor are bordered with sand banks, which dry at low water and are steep to. On the west side they extend off nearly 600 yards in places, and are interspersed with patches of rocks and stones. On the north side the bank does not extend more than 200 yards from the shore. Ramsay Point Shoals — Columbine Shoal — Buoyage. — From Ramsay Point, on the north side of the harbor, the shallow water extends in an east-southeast direction for 1,400 yards, whence it turns northeastward and northward. The south edge of this bank is marked by Inner Beacon, with topmark, erected in 12 feet water, with the white post on Ramsay Point bearing 281°, distant nearly 1,050 yards. At 1,050 yards, 71° from Inner Beacon, and about 70 yards within the 5-fathom edge of the bank, lies Columbine Shoal Buoy, painted black and white in vertical stripes, and surmounted by a globe, from which Ramsay Point Beacon bears 265°, distant 1,900 yards. Between Inner Beacon and Ramsay Point there is a coral patch of 6 feet and another of 4 feet, detached from the edge of the bank, but within the 5-fathom line. Both patches are steep-to on the south side. Westward of Ramsay Point the edge of the bank is marked by two beacons. Light. — On the west side of Pappan Island is exhibited, from a red framework tower, at an elevation of 79 feet above high water, an occulting light, with white and red sectors, visible from a distance of 14 miles in clear weather. For sectors, see Light List and Chart. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Victoria Harbor at 9h. 45m. ; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4.5 feet. When the sun has north declination the higher tides about springs occur during the day, and when the sun has south declination, during the night. At the equi- noxes the rise of the tides is equal. The direction and strength of the tidal streams are influenced by prevailing winds outside, occasionally sending in a sudden swell. Directions — South Channel. The shoals, more in the offing than those above mentioned, have been described above. Bearings of Pelong Rocks, Pisang Hill, and KUKAMAN CHANNEL. 33ft Eusukan Besar, etc., will assist in keeping a vessel in the fairway between Pelong Rocks and Barat Bank. The best channel is apparently between the red buoy on Abana Eock and the white buoy on Barat Bank, as long as the buoys are in position ; otherwise the channel southward of Abana Eock, between it and Pelong Eocks, seems preferable. Thence, from a position about 4 or 5 miles southward or Eusukan Besar, or if proceeding from Bruni Eiver to Victoria Harbor, steer for Pappan Island when bearing 24°, observing that Daat Island, just open eastward of Pap- pan, leads eastward of Trident Shoal. When about a mile from Pappan steer midway between it and Outer Shoal Buoy; thence northward of Harbor Shoal Buoy into the harbor. At nigh.t, and being eastward of Pelong Eocks, a vessel will be just within the range of Pappan light, showing occulting white, and it may be steered for on about a 47° bearing, passing westward of it as in the daytime. Sailing vessels wishing to sail in or out of Victoria Harbor should always take advantage of the land and sea breezes, instead of attempting to work in. Arriving in the afternoon or night it is better to anchor in a depth of 10 or 11 fathoms, about half a mile south of Outer Shoal, weighing at daylight the next morning, and running in with the land breeze ; and in leaving the harbor wait for the sea breeze between noon and 1 p. m., which carries a vessel with a fair wind past all danger. Kuraman Channel should not be taken without local knowledge until it has been surveyed, as before remarked. Anchorages — Harbor limits. — The limits of Victoria Harbor are defined as follows: On the east by a line from Collier Head to the eastern point of Pappan Island, thence by shore line to the southern point of that island, thence to the north point of Enoe Island, and from that position to Hamilton Point. From Hamilton Point the shore line is followed to the northward and eastward to Collier Head. The space northwestward of Enoe Island and within a distance of 600 yards from Enoe Beacon is not considered to be within the above limits. Vessels should moor in 10 to 12 fathoms with open hawse to the southeast, as strong gusts from south to east occur, particularly at night. The atmosphere here at times is oppressive, and unless com- pelled to. remain it may be preferable to anchor southward of Pap- pan Island, in 10 to 12 fathoms, where the full strength of land and sea breezes will be experienced. 340 NOETHWBST COAST 01' BOKNEO. The anchorage reserved for vessels of war is on or near the line from the Government flagstaff adjoining the public offices to Enoe Island, at a distance of about 500 yards from the northern shore, in about 5J fathoms. Caution. — Bathing is dangerous, crocodiles being seen at times in the harbor. Prohibited anchorage. — On account of the telegraph cables no vessel is allowed to anchor within an area inclosed by the following lines: Ramsay Point Beacon to Enoe Beacon, thence to southwest point of Pappan Island, thence to Ramsay Point Beacon. Quarantine anchorage. — The quarantine anchorage is situated at half a mile off the northern side of Pappan Island, and eastward of a line joining Inner Beacon and Pappan Island Lighthouse. OfS.cials and courtesies. — ^It is not a military port. The resident commissioner is the chief civil authority, and the first call should be made by the commander of a visiting man-of-war. Lights. — The following lights are shown in the harbor: On end of coaling pier at a height of 30 feet a fixed green light, visible 5 miles; 250 yards 186° from Government flagstaff a fixed red light; and 300 yards 346° from the latter a fixed white light. The two latter lights in line lead between Outer and Harbor Shoals. Coaling piers. — ^Bazaar Wharf, in Victoria Harbor, is 382 feet in length, with a depth of 18 to 24 feet alongside at low water. There are large coal sheds near it, but the amount kept in stock varies probably about 4,000 tons. The company, in 1909, erected a trans- porter at the port, by means of which they hope to coal vessels at the rate of 140 tons per hour ; 350 tons were bunkered in 3 hours with the new plant. At about 300 yards southeastward of the wharf is a coaling pier, alongside of which vessels of 25 to 27 feet draft can coal at low water. A railway connects the wharf and pier with the mines. There are mooring buoys off the piers for securing to and hauling off. Victoria Harbor, northern approach — East Channel. — The northern approach to Victoria Harbor is by East Channel, lying between Bethune Head, the north extreme of Labuan and Sakat Point, 6.5 miles apart, with depths of 7 to 9 fathoms between, from whence the fairway to Victoria Harbor has, apparently, not less than 5^ fathoms. Western shore. — Within Bethune Head, a low point 20 feet in height, the shore southward to Collier Head is fronted by shallow banks to the distance of 1.5 miles in places. Buoy. — At the eastern extreme of this bank, in about 4 fathoms, is a small red conical buoy, from which Collier Head bears, 234°, about 1.2 miles ; the next buoy southward is the Columbine, referred SAMAEANG AND VEENON BANKS. 341 to with the harbor. There are no other buoys in this channel, and too much reliance must not be placed on them. Landmarks. — On the summit of the island, within Bethune Head, is a beacon, and a conspicuous chimney is situated between it and KaflSies anchorage, referred to in "Aspect," above. Kaffles anchorage, off Coal Point, is not now used, the coal raised from the mines near being taken to Victoria Harbor by rail. The pier and jetty have almost disappeared. Eastern shore. — Sakat Point, on the east side of the entrance, is fronted by dangers to the distance of a mile, there being a sunken rock at nearly that distance northwest of it. Between Sakat Point and Tulak Point, northeastward of it, shoals extend 1.5 miles off, with detached dangers beyond. Close to Sakat Point is Lubidan, a cliffy islet covered with trees, the tops of which are about 50 feet above the sea. Both are difficult to distinguish from the westward, and are therefore not available as leading marks. The shore southward is fronted by a bank to a much greater distance, its outer edge being 2.5 miles west and 3 miles northwest of Kalias Point. Farther southward it surrounds Daat Island, as before mentioned. Off -lying dangers — ^Samarang Bank (center), in the northwest approach to Labuan, within a depth of 10 fathoms, is about 6 miles in length by 3.5 miles in breadth, and steep-to beyond the 10-fathom line. It has general depths of 4 to 6 fathoms, and the least depth found when it was examined was 3^ fathoms. A depth of 16 feet has since been reported on the western part of the bank, and at the same time the sea was observed to break over the bank during smooth water. The natives of Labuan state that there are many rocks on the bank which break at low water. Its western extreme, 4 fathoms, lies with the summit of Labuan, bearing 123° true, distant 25J miles. To the southward of this bank and between it and Labuan Island are shoal patches bearing and distant from beacon, northern end of island, as follows: 288°, 18.25 miles, with 4 fathoms over it; 286°, 18.6 miles, about one-half mile in extent, with 4 fathoms; and 291°, 11.3 miles, about 30 yards wide and 50 long, with 5 fathoms least water. Vernon Bank — ^Fury Rocks. — Vernon Bank is about 12 miles in length in a northeast and opposite direction by about 7 miles in breadth, within the 10-fathom line, and steep-to, with general depths of 4 to 8 fathoms over a coral bottom. Near its center are the Fury Eocks, about 3 miles in extent, consisting of coral patches with from 2 to 3 fathoms, with some pinnacle rocks awash at low water. In fine weather there is seldom much break of the sea over them, and 342 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. at high water possibly none at all. From ithe center of these rocks, in latitude 5° 44' north, longitude 115° 2' east, the summit of Labuan is just visible. Near the northeast extreme of the bank, about 6 miles from Fury Rocks, is a patch of 2| fathoms. Vessels should give Vernon Bank a wide berth, as the currents in this vicinity are un- certain. Mackenzie, Grieve, Gordon, and other shoals eastward of the fairway are described with Tega Channel, and Mangalum Island and Saracen Bank, off-lying dangers in the northern approach, in the following chapter. Caution. — A glance at the chart will show that the whole of that part of the China Sea extending from the Vernon Bank north- westward of Labuan in a line passing over Saracen Bank and Man- galum Island to the Furious Shoals should, until closely surveyed, be navigated with the greatest possible caution. Vessels proceed- ing to China by the Palawan Passage should not venture among the shoals near Labuan and Mangalum Island, but keep to the northward of them and closer to the track recommended on the chart. Bethune Head Shoals. — From Bethune Head, the north extreme of Labuan, foul ground extends 2 miles in a northerly direction, with patches awash in places, and others, with less than 6 feet, near its northeast and northwest edges, which break at times. At about 3.25 miles west of Bethuns Head is a bank with 2 fath- oms least water, and half a mile in extent. A patch of 2J fathoms lies half a mile north of it and one of 3^ fathoms at a mile south- ward of it, the whole of which should be given a wide berth. Pour-fathoms Patches, about a mile in extent, consist of several patches, with depths of 4 fathoms and upward, and 10 to 12 fathoms around them. The least water, 4 fathoms, is the southernmost patch, situated with Bethune Head 145°, distant 3.75 miles. There is a patch of 7 fathoms at 2 miles northward of Four-fathoms Patches, and one of 8 fathoms 4 miles farther east. All these dangers are steep-to, and others may exist in this neighborhood, for which a careful lookout should be kept. Iris Shoal and other outlying dangers in the approach from the eastward are described in the following chapter. Directions — ^East Channel — Prom the offing.— These directions are written from the plan, and should be used with caution. A good approach from the northwestward is between Samarang Bank and Fury Rocks, generally marked by breakers, which are practically the only safeguards ; or southward of the Samarang, which is free from danger.. Tlixe first-mentioned channel is about 6 miles wide, with a least depth of 19 fathoms. • DIEECTIONS LABUAN. 343 When within these banks, bearings of the beacon on the summit of the island and the conspicuous chimney lower down and east- ward of it, the 530-foot hill, and also the conspicuous tree charted 10 miles northeastward of Sakat Point, should serve to fix the vessel accurately. They are the only objects available, and would be more available for going out. The beacon on the summit of Labuan is possibly visible from aloft on a clear day from between the shoals, and bearing 131° leads in the fairway. When well within Samarang Bank, if the 530-foot hill above mentioned be brought to bear 103° and steered for on that bearing, it will lead clear of Mackenzie Grieve and Iris Shoals, situated northward of the fairway. From the northeastward the beacon on the summit of Labuan, if it can be seen, bearing 190°, apparently leads in westward of Winchester Shoals, and between Gordon and Middle Patches. From the eastward, vessels of about 12 feet draft may, in smooth water, take the passage within and through the shoals lying off the Bornean shore, but passing outside Iris and Pine Point Shoals. The approach to many of the shoals will be guarded by the lead, and the heave of the sea over shallow patches, and in some cases broken water will point out many of the dangers. A good lookout aloft should be kept, as with the sun abaft the beam the greenish hue of the shoals is visible. Jahat Eock, which dries 2 feet, and the shallow head on Pine Point Shoals will probably be easily made out. Vessels may also take a middle route, between Gordon Patches and Fury Eock, thence northward of Winchester and Nosong Shoals, and southward of Tega Islands, thence northeastward within the Manta- nani Islands to the north extreme of Borneo, but constant care will be necessary. Entering East Channel, vessels of deep draft should only take it near high water, and the Southern Channel is preferable for them. From a position 3 or 4 miles westward of Iris Shoal, with Labuan Island Beacon bearing about 204°, steer for the summit of Daat Island, bearing 176°, until Pappan Island summit bears 195°, when it should be steered for until the summit of Daat Island bears 164°, whence a 186° course will lead in the fairway eastward of the red buoy northeast of Collier Head; when the summit of Daat bears 98°, and Burong Island is well open of Hamilton Point, steer for Enoe Island, bearing 238°, with the south extreme of Eusukan Besar touch- ing the south side of Enoe, until abreast Inner Beacon, from whence course may be altered for the wharves, or anchorage taken, as requisite. At night. — When southward of Iris Shoal, Pappan Island Light will be seen between the bearings of 194° and 205°, occulting white, 344 NORTHWEST COAST OP BORNEO. and should be steeerd for, bearing about 199° ; when about a mile distant from the red buoy northeastward of Collier Head, edge toward the eastern limit of the white light, and keep on that edge of the light until abreast Columbine Buoy; thence edge westward across the' white' sector, to the anchorage, where the light shows occulting red. It is not recommended at night for other than small craft on a first visit. CHAPTER X. NORTHWEST COASl' OF BORNEO. LABUAX ISLAND TO SAMPANMANGIO POINT AND KUDAT HAEBOK.— PALAWAN PASSAGE AND THE DANGEROUS GROUND TO WESTWARD. Tega Channel, ■western approacli — Coast. — From Tulak Point, northeastward of Sakat Point, abreast the north end of Labuan, the coast trends northeastward for 18 miles to Nosong Point, the south side of Tega Channel, and the west extreme of Kimanis Bay. It is fronted by a bank varying from half to 1 mile offshore, except about midway, where are the Pine Point Shoals. The range of hills about 6 miles southwest of Pine Point has several peaks, the most conspicuous of which is 530 feet in height, possibly useful as a leading mark from seaward. A conspicuous tree is situated on the long tableland southwestwaard of Pine Point. A ridge of hills, 5 miles in length, terminates in Mount Nosong, 360 feet in height. Dangers. — Pine Point Shoals are steep-to and extend about 4.5 miles offshore. A rock, with 1 foot water, lies at the north extreme of the shoals, 298°, distant 4.5 miles from Pine Point. Iris Shoal, with a least depth of 3 fathoms in two places about a mile apart, lies between 8.5 and 9.5 miles 266° from Pine Point, with Labuan Island Beacon bearing 221°, distant 10.5 miles. There are depths of 11 to 14 fathoms north and west of the shoal. There are two shoals, with depths of 2^ to 1-J fathoms between it and Tulak Point. Jahat Shoals, northward of Iris Shoal, extend within the 10- fathom contour line for a distance of nearly 4 miles in an east and west direction and about 3 mUes north and south. There are numerous shoal patches of from li to 3 fathoms, with deep water between. Jahat Eock, which dries about 2 feet at low- water springs, is situated near the center. Middle Patches, three in number, close together, and 1 mile northwest of Jahat Shoals, extend nearly 2 miles in an east and west direction and 1,400 yards in a north and south direction. The least water, 4| fathoms, is situated near the south end of the western 345 346 NOETHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. patch, with Nosong Point 86°, distant 16.6 miles. The other patches have 5J and 5^ fathoms over them, with deeper water between. Gordon Patches consist of one large shoal about 2 miles in extent within the 10-fathom contour line and other smaller patches situ- ated southeastward and northwestward of it, having over them depths of 7 and 8 fathoms. A depth of 3f fathoms was found near the western end of the large shoal, with Nosong Point 86°, distant 21 miles, and the beacon on Labuan Island 179°, distant 13.5 miles. Near the center of the large shoal there is a small area where a depth of 64 fathoms was obtained and over which were numerous gas bubbles, the bottom being of mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. An analysis of the gas in 1908 gave 88.4 of methane; the remaining percentage was considered to be air from defective stopping of the bottles. Current. — The maximimi current experienced whilst ship was at anchor here, in 19 hours, was half a knot, west-northwest. {Merlin, June, 1908.) Mackenzie Grieve Shoals consist of three patches, which are together about 1 mile in extent. The least known depth is 4J fathoms, found over the eastern patch in a position from which Labuan Island Beacon bears 167°, distant 12 miles. Winchester Shoal is formed by two patches, which together extend about 2 miles in a north and south direction, and are 1.5 miles broad within the 10-fathom contour line. The least depth obtained was If fathoms, situated near the center of the northern and larger patch; from this depth Nosong Point bears 106°, distant 15 miles. Growler Bank is about 1 mile in extent, with a least depth of 4J fathoms, from which the highest islet on Nosong Shoal bears 39°, distant 4 miles. A bank, with 7 f athonjs water, lies between Growler Bank and Nosong Shoals. Nosong Shoals, about 4 miles northeastward of Growler Bank, are about 2.5 miles long in an east-northeast and opposite direction, and 2 miles broad within the 10-fathom contour line. Two islfets, composed of white broken coral, exist near the center of this shoal; the southeastern and higher of these islets is 5 feet high, and a useful mark. A rock dries 1^ feet at the northeast end of the shoal. Caution.— The water along this coast is generally much discolored, and the shoals, even with a good light, are difficult to see. Tidal streams. — ^Near the coast the tidal streams are scarcely per- ceptible, btit the flood appears tp set to the south'vvard and the ebb to the northward. ; . i k : . . From July to the middle o'f Oc'tober; W'hen farther from the sho~re, but southward of Gordon and Winchester Shoals, the current, with TBGA CHANNEL TEGA ISLAND. 347 few exceptions, sets to the northward and northeastward, attaining usually a velocity of from a quarter to half a knot, the maximum observed being 1.3 knots. In December, near Four Fathoms Patch, the current was found set- ting to the westward with a maximum velocity of a little more than half a knot, and northward of Lubedan Island it sets west- southwestward with a velocity of about half a knot an hour. Tega Channel lies between Nosong Point and the Tega Island, and is that mainly used by vessels passing up and down the coast. It is 5.5 miles wide, but the navigable portion, southward of Dunlop Shoal, is reduced to about 2 miles by the shoals extending off Nosong Point; the fairway depths are from 6 to 9 fathoms. The channel northward of Dunlop Shoal is about a mile wide, with a 5-fathom patch in the fairway. Nosong Point is the north extreme of a peninsula about 2 miles in breadth, rising to a height of 360 feet in Mount Nosong, 1.5 miles within the point, from which the ridge extends 5 miles southward. It is thickly wooded to the water's edge. The western side is rocky, but there are sandy beaches eastward of the point. Dangers. — Nosong Point, south side of the narrows, is fronted by shoals to the distance of 2 miles, at which distance there is a patch of 2J fathoms, with 5 fathoms fairly close to. Tangut Rock, 28 feet high, lies three-quarters of a mile off Nosong Point, with Cake Rock, 24 feet high, near the shore ; the whole space within the 2^-fathom patch is foul. Nosong Patch, of 3^ fathoms, is the westernmost danger off the point, with Tangut Eock, 98°, distant 2.5 miles. Dunlop Shoal, in the fairway, is of small extent, with 3 fathoms water, and 9 to 10 fathoms around. It lies with Tangut Rock bear- ing 207°, distant 3.6 miles; it may be passed on either side, but avoid- ing the 5-fathom patch at 1,200 yards north of it. A shoal, with a least depth of 2f fathoms, lies 264°, distant 1.75 miles from the west end of Tega Island. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Tega at llh. 26m.; springs rise 5 feet. The tidal streams off the southeast end of Tega Island are irregular, and appear to be influenced by currents in the offing set up by temporary or constant prevailing winds. In Decem- ber they more often set between east-northeast and southeast, and attain a strength of over three-quarters of a knot per hour, the ebb setting east-northeastward; occasionally with the flood tide the stream flowed southwestward. Tega Island, 2.75 miles in length, northwest and southeast, is situated nearly 6 miles north-northeastward of Nosong Point.. Tur- tle and Burong Islands lie to the northward of it. The three islands 348 urORtSWEST coast of BORNEO. lie on a coral bank about 5 miles in length, extending northeast- ward from Tega Island. Large casuarina trees grow on the sand spit at the southeast extreme of Tega Island, and also on the southeast peak; the rest of the island is covered with jungle. The beach is adapted for the seine. . A spit, with a depth of 1^ fathoms at its outer end, and steep-to, ■extends from the southeast point of Tega Island for half a miife. Anchorages. — There is good anchorage and shelter in the north- east monsoons in a depth of 8 fathoms, on the south side of Tega Island, with the center peak bearing 24° and the northwest point of the island 317°. Anchorage during the southwest monsoon can be obtained in a depth of 10 or 11 fathoms northward of the sand spit at" the south- east extreme of Tega Island, also at about half a mile eastward of Turtle Island, in depths of from 12 to 14 fathoms. Turtle Island is a low sandy island, covered with trees, which attain a height of 157 feet. It is about half a mile in length in a north and south direction, and 200 yards in breadth. There is no clear passage between Tega and Turtle Islands. Burong Island is small, round, and rocky, surmounted by trees and bushes. It is 112 feet high to the tops of the trees. Shoal water extends northward from Burong Island, a depth of 5 fathoms being found at a distance of 3.25 miles, 19° from it. Deluar Shoals, on which the sea breaks, lie between 5 and 9 miles, 13°, from Burong Island, and are steep-to, with rocks 1 and 2 feet high on the northern portion, from which the east extremes of Turtle and Tega Islands are in line. The reef extends 1.5 miles northward and 2.5 miles southward of these rocks, the highest of which is in latitude 5° 53' north, longitude 115° 42' east. Eimanis Bay, lying between Nosong Point and Papar Point, is 20 miles wide, and apparently free from danger, with depths of 14 to 20 fathoms. Aspect. — Kinandukan Peak, on the eastern side of the bay, is the only hill in this vicinity situated near the coast. It is 475 feet high and conspicuous, being covered with dark trees, which show dis- tinctly against the more distaht hills, which are often partiaiUy obscured by mist or rain. The Suniatan range of mountains rise to a height of 5,013 feet, and extend in a northerly and northeasterly direction at a distance of from 13 to 15 miles from the coast, sloping on their western side to a low plain. SevM-al small hills, from 200 to 800 feet high, but inconspicuous Iphen seen from seaward, are situated on this plain between the Suniatan Itange and the coast. TINAMANDUKAN KIMANIS EIVEE. 349 Kilatiian, a conspicuous round hill, 1,536 feet high, also stands on this plain. Tinamandukan, the northwestern extreme of a serrated ridge running down from the Suniatan Range, is 2,460 feet high, and con- spicuous from all directions. Castle Peak (Bukit Tebelong) is a conspicuous hill, 2,033 feet high, with a native hut on the bare summit. The shore of Kimanis Bay eastward of the Penyu to Dukan Point is low and swampy, with a sandy beach, which in most parts is backed by a narrow band of casuarina trees, behind which the ground is flat and swampy or covered with dense jungle, which latter espe- cially prevails at the southeastern part of the bay. Kwala Penyu (Kapala) , in the western corner of the bay, under the east side of Nosong Peninsula, has 4 feet on its bar. It is fronted by a bank with less than 3 fathoms to the distance of nearly 3 miles. One advantage this river seems to possess over any other in Kimanis Bay is the freedom from rollers and complete protection for boats from all winds westward of north. The water of the river is stated to be fresh near its source. There are a few huts on its banks at the mouth. The settlement of Sitompok is about 2 miles above the mouth. At the head of the bay are the small streams Lama, Membakut, and the Bangawan. The settlement of Bangawan, with a railway station, is about 2 miles up the river of the same name. Anchorage. — The holding ground over the whole of Kimanis Bay is good, but stiffer, and less sandy on the eastern than on the western side. On the eastern side the water is deeper, but outside the 5' fathom contour line the bay is free from danger. There is a swell during both monsoons. In the bay no current was felt, but in November, off the mouth of Papar River, a set of half a knot northwestward was observed. Trade. — There is but little coast trade, as the railway between Beaufort and Jesselton runs along the eastern side of the bay. Supplies. — No immediate supplies are available, but can be ob- tained at short notice ; a few small cattle can be purchased at Penyu River and at Papar, which latter is a comparatively populous dis- trict. On the eastern side of the bay are situated Kimanis, Benoni, and Menani Rivers, the two former rising in the Suniatan range of hills. All these rivers are small and obstructed by bars, over which only small boats can pass. They are frequented by fishermen who inhabit the villages on their banks. Kimanis River, in the eastern part of Kimanis Bay, is fronted by a bank extending half a mile off, and its bar is dry at low water. 350 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Craft of 5 to 6 feet draft may possibly enter at high water by the southern channel, southward of the detached bank. This channel will not be discovered until rounding the tail of the rollers over the bank, which, overlapping, at first sight apparently forbid any attempt to enter. During the rainy season there is a considerably out- pour from the river and the tidal stream could never ascend it for any distance, as the rise is small. The settlement of Kimanis is about 2 miles up. Railway. — The railway from Weston to Jesselton crosses the Kimanis River about a mile within its entrance. The Benoni is situated 2.5 miles northward of the Kimanis, during the freshets it floods the neighboring land. The river may be entered by small boats at high water under favorable circum- stances. The Menani, about 3 miles northward of the Benoni, is barred, but, like the latter, can be entered by boats at high water under favorable circumstances. It trends northerly about 1 mile parallel to the beach and in the direction of Kinindukan Peak, over the coast just southward of Dukan Point. Papar River, about 3 miles northward of the Minani, discharges close southward of Papar Point. It has 2 to 3 feet on the bar at low water and is navigable by boats for a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The entrance, which is a little more than 200 yards broad, is difficult to recognize from seaward. It is fronted by a shallow bank to the distance* of a mile, and during a heavy swell with either monsoon is sometimes impassable for several days. Pulo Laian is a rocky islet situated 1.6 miles northwestward of Papar Point, having its summit thickly covered with bushes, the tops of which are 103 feet above the sea ; it lies within the 10-f athom contour line and is steep-to. Coast. — From Papar Point the coast is low and sandy, trending east-northeastward as far as Pangallat Point, a thickly wooded bluff, the tops of the trees being 289 feet above the sea. From thence the coast trends northeastward until reaching the mouth of Kinarut stream, which, however, like the others in this locality, is quite unim- portant, being only accessible to canoes. Sugara Island, densely wooded with trees, 357 feet in length, is situated half a mile within the edge of the flat which extends IJ miles off the mouth of the Kinarut. An islet 86 feet high lies half a mile southwest of it. On the shore flat, 2 miles northeast of Sugara, at a mile offshore, is Panduan Islet, 20 feet high ; there are many snakes on it. Shore fiat. — Northeastward of Dukan Point the shallow bank fronting the coast recommences, extending about 1.5 miles off north- ward of Papar Point, but it is easily avoided by due attention to the DINAWAN ISLAND MAMUTIK. 351 lead. The inland ranges attain a height of 1,500 to 3,000 feet. The rivers are insignificant and do not offer any inducement for trade or other purposes until reaching Gaya Bay. Dinawan Island, nearly half a mile in length and 240 feet in height, is situated 2 miles off the mouth of the Kinarut ; it appears as three islands from seaward. A reef, dry in places, extends 700 yards south of it, and there are sunken rocks between it and Sugara Island. On the eastern side of the island, distant about 400 yards, is Everett Eeef , 600 yards in length, which dries in places ; at 300 yards southward of it is a reef dry at low water. Anchorage. — The space between Everett Reef and the island reef affords anchorage for small craft in about 7 fathoms. Tinson Reef is a coral reef half a mile in extent, with some dry heads on it, and is steep-to. It lies off the edge of the shore reefs, on the south side of approach to Dumpil River. Dumpil BrOck, which dries 1 foot, lies near the edge of the reef, which extends rather over a mile off Dumpil Point. The reef ex- tends 400 yards north of the rock, and 800 yards south of the rock is a patch which dries. Dumpil Point, 181 feet high, has some trees, but is not conspicu- ous. A stream of the same name discharges at a mile southward of the point. For the shore dangers, see the chart. Railway. — The railway to Jesselton runs along the high-water line here, and there is a station, Putatan, within Dumpil Point. Jesselton, southwest approach — Islands and dangers. — The approach is between Gaya Island and Tanjong Aru, on the main, 2.25 miles apart, and in it are the following islands and dangers : South Hill Rockjof small extent, with a least depth of 2| fath- oms and 23 to 24 fathoms around, is the outer danger, and lies with the summit of Gaya Island 77°, distant 9.5 miles. Manukan, 352 feet high and about a mile in length east and west, is the largest and northernmost of the three islands situated in the fairway, at 2.5 to 3 miles northwest of Tanjong Aru. It is fringed by reef to the distance of 200 yards, except its north side ; a detached shoal, dry at its south end, lies about 800 yards eastward of the island, and is steep-to, with a depth of 12 fathoms between. Anchorage. — ^During northerly winds vessels can anchor oft' the south side of Manukan Island, in a depth of 14 fathoms, mud. Sulug, the southwestern island, is 339 feet high and has shoal water extending nearly 600 yards from its northern extreme, and "350 yards from its south point. Mamutik, the easternmost island, is 208 feet high, with shoal water extending 150 yards from its northern end, and 600 yards from its south extreme. 352 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. Beacon. — The outer edge of this foul ground is marked by a white beacon. A reef, over which there is a depth of 1.5 feet, lies 1,000 yards northeastward of Mamutik Island. Tanjong Aru — Shoals — Beacon. — Tanjong Aru (Karundingan or Lutut Point) , situated on the south side of the approach, is a low flat point with foul ground and rocky patches, which uncover at low water, extending 1.2 miles westward from it. The outer of these shoals has a depth of 3 feet, and is marked on its northern edge by a red beacon. Inshore Channel. — The channel between Mamutik Island, with the reef northeastward of it, and the reefs extending from Tanjong Aru, is half a mile broad, but obstructed by two shoals, of which the western, with 1 fathom water, is marked by a white beacon, and the eastern with a depth of 3.5 fathoms, is also marked by a white beacon. This channel is used by small vessels approaching Jesselton from southwestward, thence through South Channel. Large vessels must pass northward of Gaya Island to Jesselton Harbor. (See directions following.) South Channel is the narrow channel between the reefs which nearly connect Gaya Island with the mainland at Jesselton. It is marked by white beacons on the north side and red beacons on the south side. In one part of the channel the depth is only 10 feet, and it should only be used by those locally acquainted. The shoal on the north side of the approach, with from 7 to 10 feet water, is marked on its south extreme by a red beacon and a white beacon eastward of it. Snake rock, 3 feet high, is situated about midway between the channel and the southeast extreme of Gaya Island. Gaya Island, about 4 miles in length, northwest and southeast, by 1.5 miles in average breadth, is very hilly, and with a bare summit 950 feet in height. Most of the island is densely wooded. It is almost connected with the shore, distant 1 mile, by a reef about 1 mile wide, and nearly dry at exceptionally low tides, except for the narrow South Channel which runs through it, before mentioned. The shores of the island are fringed by reefs to the distance of 200 to 400 yards, as charted. The reef at Torajun Point, the northeast ex- treme, extends nearly 500 yards, and is known as Breaker Point; southward of the point is Malohom Bay. Bulijong Point, the northwest extreme of the island, has a sunken rock about 200 yards from it, and shallow water for the further dis- ' tance, 200 yards. The island should be given a berth of 600 yards unless seeking anchorage. SINJATAAN ISLAND CKBIGHTON PATCH. 353 The western shore is steep and unbroken, but the other sides are indented, affording shelter under its lee, according to the prevailing monsoon. Sinjataan or Loney Island, 355 feet in height and thickly wooded, is connected with the southwest point of Gaya by a flat, with a depth of about 1 foot at low water. Shallow water extends from 400 to 600 yards south and southwest of the island, and 400 yards off its northwest point. Edgell Patches, two patches, each with a least depth of 7 fathoms and fairly steep-to, lie from 0.9 to 1.2 miles westward of Sinjataan Island, as charted. Gaya Bay. — Gaya Bay and Sapangar Bay, the northern part, lie between Gaya Island and Gaya Head, about 5.5" miles apart. It af- fords anchorage anywhere, avoiding Creighton Patch. Gaya and Sapangar Bays afford deep water anchorage, with shelter according to the prevailing monsoon. In Jesselton Harbor, south end of Gaya Bay, there is fairly secure anchorage at all times ; also in Gaya Harbor, east side of the island. Islets and Dangers — Beacons. — Plompong Island, 46 feet in height, is situated about 600 yards within the extreme of the reef, which extends 1,450 yards east-southeastward, of Logong Point, west side of Jesselton Harbor. This reef extends half a mile southward of Plompong, with patches dry at low water. Beacons. — The east extreme of this reef is marked by a white beacon. Gaya Harbor is the anchorage between this reef and the reef which extends 500 yards off Sindian Point and affords good anchor- age in depths of about 8 fathoms, protected from northward by Plompong Island Reef. Reef extends about 500 yards from the shore, near its center, with a patch dry at low water, and steep-to at its extreme. There are the remains of a pier and a village on the shore. On the eastern shore a flat extends 1,400 yards off Lita Point, which is nearly abreast the eastern extreme of Gaya Island. On its edge are rocks 4 and 5 feet high, with a patch of 1-| fathoms at 700 yards southwestward of the 5-foot rock. The bay between this patch and the reefs eastward of Normanhurst Reef has depths of 5 to 7 fathoms, shoaling gradually to the flats off the mouth of Inaman River, which has its outlet here and is available for boats. Creighton Patch is situated in the fairway of the approach to Jesselton Harbor between the rocks on the eastern shore, just de- scribed, and Plompong Island. It is about 250 yards long and 160 yards broad within the 10-fathom contour line, and has a depth of 90045—15 23 354 NOETHWBST COAST OP BOENEO. 5 fathoms, from which Plompong Islet bears 244°, distant 1,700 yards. Normanhurst B>eef, about 200 yards in extent, with a least depth of 4 feet, lies 700 yards 331° of Lipat Point, east side of the harbor. Between it and the Point are Comber Eeefs, with depth of 2 feet on southern part and 4 feet on northern. Gueritz Reef, with 14 feet, lies 1,100 yards 283° of Lipat Point, and is steep-to. It is marked by a red beacon. Grieve Reef, with a depth of 5 feet, lies 600 yards 283° of Gueritz Reef, and is marked by two white beacons. Hewlett Reef, with a depth of 1 foot, lies within the 5-fathom contour line betweeri Lipat Point and Jesselton Pier. It is marked by a red beacon. Harris Reef, also with a depth of 1 foot, lies nearly 800 yards westward of it, on the opposite side of the harbor, and is marked by a white beacon. The northeast extreme of the reef northward of Harris Reef is marked by a white beacon. The shoal westward of the pier is marked by white beacons, and the shoal 600 yards westward of the pier is also marked by a white beacon, and the edge of the flat be- tween the pier and Hewlett Reef by a red beacon. Jesselton Harbor has depths of 6 to 8 fathoms, somewhat open to the northward, but partly protected by Sapangar Island and Plom- pong Island Reef. It is one-third of a mile wide between Hewlett and Harris Reefs, and wider elsewhere. Light. — A fixed green light is exhibited from an iron framework, at an elevation of 25 feet above high water, on the eastern side of. Grieve Reef. It is not to be depended on. Tides. — It is high water, full and change,' at lOh. 15m. ; springs rise 5|, neaps rise 4 feet. The moon's declination and parallax has a marked effect on the tides, the highest tides occurring with a maxi- mum declination, at which time there is but one high water in the 24 hours. The current experienced during the survey by the Merlin, June to December, was northeasterly, varying from half a Imot to 1| knots after strong winds (southwest). Directions. — There is no difficulty in approaching Jesselton Har- bor northward of Gaya Island. All that is necessary is to give the island a berth of at least \ mile and to round the white beacon on the extreme of Plompong Island Reef at a prudent distance, thence passing between the white beacons on Grieve Reef on the starboard hand and the red beacon on Gueritz Shoal on the port hand, and similarly between the beacons marking Harris and Hewlett Reefs, and anchor off the pier in a convenient position ; or be taken along- JESSELTON SAPANGAR ISLAND. 355 side the pier, which has 18 feet at low water at its outer end, and not less than 10 feet for about 200 feet within. Or, independent of the beacons from off Torajun or Breaker Point, Lipat Point, bearing 148°, leads eastward of Plompong Island Eeef, and with that island bearing 272°, Jesselton Pier being steered for, bearing 182°, will lead to the anchorage clear of all dangers. Small craft may come from the southwestward through South Channel, 10 feet least water. Jesselton. — The town of Jesselton is situated on the eastern shore of the harbor, 1.25 miles southward of Lipat Point. It is the prin- cipal port on the northwest coast of Borneo, and is th^ terminus of the railway which runs from there to Weston (in Bruni Bay) and Tenom (Fort Birch) on the Padas River, with a junction at Beaufort. Pier. — The pier, onto which the railway runs, is about 260 yards in length, with a depth of 18 feet at its extreme, but at 100 yards within there is only 2 feet water. It is situated 800 yards northeast- ward of the town. The clock tower is a conspicuous object, situated northwest of the Government offices. » Supplies. — Beef, bread, and vegetables can be obtained at a reason- able price, fowls are fairly plentiful, and fish can be procured at the local market. About 600 tons of coal are kept in stock for the use of the Government yacht and railway workshops. Communication. — The interinsular steamers of the N. D. L. Line call fortnightly, both outward and homeward, and run in commu- nication, at Singapore, with their ordinary mail steamers between Europe and the East. There is telegraphic communication with Sandakan and Labuan, and from thence to Hongkong and Singapore. Also with Ambong Bay and Kudat Harbor. Weather. — The temperature attains about 88° F. in July and is lowest about January — 71° ; the daily range is about 9°. Eainfall about 125 inches; April to November are the rainy months, but rain falls in every month, the least being about Feb- ruary, when the amount is 1 or 2 inches. The steamship Merlin, 1908, had 18 inches of rain in September; average, June to December, 12^ inches. Sapangar Bay, within Sapangar Island, is of considerable extent, available for all classes of vessels, and is one of the most secure har- bors on this coast. Sapangar Island, 670 feet high and densely wooded, lies on the" north side of approach to Sapangar Bay; it is 1.3 miles in length, and nearly connected with the coast northeast of it by the Udar Islands and Eeefs. Shoal water extends 400 yards off its south ex- 356 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. treme, and about a third of a mile off its north extreme. The island is sometimes used as a quarantine station. Udar Island, 201 feet high, has a narrow but deep channel on either side of it, and Udar Kechil, 166 feet, and Udar Priok, 97 feet, lie between Sapangar and the coast northward of Melanim Point, both on the same reef. These islands afford considerable protection to the bay, and are fringed by reef, as charted. Beacon. — A beacon marks the south end of Udar Island Eeef, useful for small craft taking the channel between Sapangar and Udar Islands. The east extreme of Sapangar Bearing 202° leads through. Coral reef, dry in places, fronts Tarak Tarak Point, south side of approach to Menggatal or Kabatuan Kiver, to the distance of 800 yards, and to 1,000 and 1,400 yards northward of that river, extending nearly to the center of the bay, four patches on which uncover at low water, as charted, and to a less distance around the head of Sapangar Bay. Anchorage. — Enter the bay about half a mile southward of Sapangar Island, and haul around it at about that distance. Anchor- age may be taken in depths of from 9 to 12 fathoms off the river or nearer the head of the bay, as mo§t desirable, avoiding the reefs northward of the river. Gantisan Village is situated at the northeastern head of the bay. Menggatal or Kabatuan River has a depth of about 2 feet on its bar, and deepens within. The entrance may be distinguished by a yellow sandstone bluff on its northern, and the abrupt angle of the coast on the southern, shore. The bar appears to be composed of coral knolls, being a continua- tion of the line of reef fronting the shore. A few miles within the river the water is fresh. The river was formerly a place of considerable trade, probably now transferred to Jesselton Pier. Gaya Head, the northern extreme of Gaya and Sapangar Bays, is bluff, densely wooded, and steep-to beyond a short distance. Bukit Penaga, 1,112 feet in height, is situated about three-quarters of a mile within it. The land is mostly jungle, but in places there are clearings, with long grass and a few small trees. A lagoon, situated 3.5 miles within the head, nearly makes the head an island, only a narrow neck of a few hundred yards joining it to the mainland at Gantisan. Banks. — Between Gaya Head and the Udar Islands, at 600 yards offshore, are patches of 6 and 6.5 fathoms. Mangalum Island, in the offing, at about 25 miles west-northwest- ward of Gaya Island, is circular in shape, and about 1 mile in di- ameter. The land is very low, the' highest part being only a few feet SABACEN BANK. 357 above the level of the sea. The tops of the trees, about 170 feet above the sea, are visible at the distance of about 12 miles. The island is surrounded by a coral reef, broken only at the southeast portion, where vessels may enter and anchor close to the shore, keeping a good lookout for shallow patches. Wood for fuel and other purposes is abundant. The trees grow straight, and there is a great variety. Water is found in ponds close to the beach, but they communicate with a swamp in the center of the island. Reefs. — Southwestward of the island the reef is said to extend for 6 miles. Off the east end, rocks on which the sea breaks, and coral patches, with 4.5 fathoms, and probably less, water, are said to extend 7 or 8 miles in a northeast and easterly direction to about the track shown of the Royalist. Coral patches of 4.5 fathoms and probably less are charted 3 to 4 miles northward of the island. As the neighborhood has not been surveyed, navigation must be done by the eye. Shoals. — A shoal area about 4 miles in extent, with depths of ^rom 4.5 to 6 and 9 fathoms, lies south-southwestw^rd, distant from 9 to 13 miles from Mangalum Island. A similar area lies about 5 miles farther south in the direction of Tega Island. These shoal spaces should be avoided, as the soundings are very sparse and unknown dangers may exist. Tides. — From 4 days' observations in the month of January by Lieut. Gordon (viz., from the full moon to the fourth day after), it was high waterlat Mangalum Island invariably about 11 p. m., and low water at 6.45 a. m., the greatest rise of tide being 5 feet. There was only one flood and ebb in 24 hours. Saracen Bank. — The surveying vessel Saracen, in 1854, on her passage from Labuan to Hongkong, discovered an extensive coral bank having general depths of from, 2 to 4 fathoms and many dry patches and coral knolls with but a few feet water over them. The bank in 5 or 6 miles in diameter and its center lies west-southwest- ward about 15 miles from Mangalum Island, or in latitude 6° 7' north, longitude 115°, 20' east. Dangers had been seen in this locality before, but their positions were uncertain. It is probable that other dangers exist hereabouts, as the locality has not been surveyed. Coast. — From Kaetan Point, the north extreme of Gaya Head, the coast is low and sandy, trending northeastward until broken by the mouth of Menkabong Eiver. A sandy beach about a mile in length connects the river bank with a bluff of same name; thence for 5 miles northeastward the coast is sandy and fringed with casuarina trees. 358 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Gaya Head to Ambong Bay. — Vessels working northward along this coast must not stand too far off, as there are numerous reefs off' the east side of Mangalum. - At 7 miles from the shore during the strength of the northeast monsoon a strong current was found set- ting to the northeastward. Anchorage. — Good anchorage will be found at half a mile offshore anywhere between Gaya Head and 9 miles farther north, except just off the mouth of the rivers. The margin of the muddy water discharged by the rivers between Gaya Head and Ambong Bay is clearly marked at a distance of about 5 miles from the shore. Menkabong Bluff, about 5 miles northeastward of Gaya Head, is 369 feet in height to the tops of the trees, fronted by a reef, with a sandy beach connecting it with Menkabong River, before mentioned. Menkabong River is lost in the marshes and lagoon; it is only accessible by small craft in very fine weather, owing to the bar at its mouth ; it has another outlet north of the bluff, used occasionally by canoes. There is a fishing village at a short distance within the entrance. Tuaran River lies 3 miles northeastward of Menkabong Bluff, and admits craft of 6 to 8 feet draft when the bar is favorable. It is fronted by the shore flat to the distance of a third of a mile. Within is a fishing village. There is a depth of 3 fathoms within the bar, and the river is reported to be navigable for boats for a considerable distance. The river gives its name to the district through which it runs, and , the residency, which is 4 miles from the coast, is connected to Jessel- ton and Kudate by telephone. Sulaman River. — At 2 miles northward of the Tuaran is the mouth of the Sulaman, fronted by shallow water for the distance of about 1 mile seaward of Tanjong Indeh, and generally marked "by breakers. In 1909 the bar, under favorable conditions, admitted craft of 6 to 8 feet draft at high water with Tanjong Indeh bearing 111°; thence rounding the point closely, the passage between the point and the drying sand banks north of it being only 300 yards wide. Within the entrance is a channel 3 miles in length, with depths of 3^ fathoins, beyond which the river opens out into a shallow lake some 2 miles square, in which are depths of 2 to 4 fathoms ; the lake is encumbered with mud flats and fringed with mangroves, amongst which the river is lost in the swamps. The small village of Kindu, connected with Tuaran by a bridle path, is situated a short distance up a creek in the south part of the lake. AMBONG BAr AND SHOALS. 359 Caution. — The water deepens rapidly off the mouth of the river, and the coast, which is of a shifting character, should be given a berth of 2 miles. The coast from Sulaman Kiver trends 7.5 miles northeastward to Ambong Point, and is fronted by a shallow bank to the distance of nearly a mile in places. Junction Bluff, with the conspicuous Mount Lokpussok, 1,430 feet in height, above it, is situated 4 miles north- ward of Sulaman River. Between Junction Bluff and Ambong Point the coast forms a bight fronted by shallow water to the distance of three-quarters of a mile. Ambong Bay lies within Ambong Point, and between the point eastward of it and Perunjuk Point is nearly a mile wide. This is reduced to about half a mile between the shoals off both points. The bay has depths of 6^ to 7 fathoms over the greater portion of it, and the inner bays on either side, the shores of which are fronted by extensive reefs, have depths of 4 to 4^ fathoms, affording shelter according to the monsoon. Aspect. — Approaching from the northward, Ambong Bay may be recognized by the peculiar projection of high peaks, as it were, into the sea. Northward of the bay will be noticed the island of Usukan, about 470 feet high, showing as a black bushy cone. The mountains near it on the mainland appear with rounded summits, sloping into apparently level land. At the head of the bay will be seen the high ranges skirting it, and if sufficiently clear the blue-tinted mountain of Kina Balu, 13,450 feet high, in the distance, with that of Mount Tambuyukon, 8,445 feet high, 10 miles northeastward of it. Mount Lokpussok, 1,430 feet high, densely wooded, situated on the coast 4 miles southwest of Ambong Point, is a prominent and useful mark for the neighborhood. Ambong Point Shoals. — Ambong Point is moderately bold, the land at half a mile southward rising to a height of 548 feet. Imme- diately off the point the 5-fathom contour is nearly 400 yards dis- tant, but within eastward of the point foul ground extends 600 yards off. Telur Island, 234 feet high and thickly wooded, with Teluk and Perunjuk Points, on the opposite side of the bay, are foul to the dis- tance of about 400 yards. The bights on either side of Telur are much encumbered with reef. A patch of 3 fathoms, steep to, lies 300 yards 205° from Perunjuk Point. Shallow water extends 450 yards off Tangah Point, north- ward of Perunjuk. Shoals in entrance. — Eodney Mundy Shoal, 300 yards in diame- ter, with a least depth of I4 fathoms, and 6 to 8 fathoms around. 360 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. lies with Ambong Point bearing 174°, distant 900 yards, from the least depth. Belcher Shoal, about 850 yards in length, with a least depth of 3 feet, lies 1,450 yards 18° from Ambong Point. Directions. — The approach to Ambong Bay is easy. Vessels bound there from the northward with Kina Balu visible should bring it to bear 142° and steer for it, which will lead in the best water and northward of the shoals in the entrance. Perunjuk Point, between the bearings of 135° and 171°, will also lead in northward of the shoals in the entrance. Give that point a berth of at least 500 yards to avoid the shoals off it, thence proceed to the desired anchorage. From the southwestward vessels may round Ambong Point at the distance of 400 yards, nearly midway between the point and Rodney Mundy Shoal, with the south extreme of Perunjuk Point bearing 95°, until about 800 yards from that point, thence to the anchorage. Deep-draft vessels should enter northward of Belcher Shoal, keep- ing the whole of TTsukan Island open of Sak Point, bearing 41°, or Mount Roberton in line with Jaga Island, 64°, until Perunjuk Point bears southward of 135° ; then proceed as before from the northward. In fine weather the shoals will probably be visible from aloft. Anchorage. — ^A large vessel may anchor in 7 fathoms, partly shel- tered from the swell that prevails during either monsoon, with Ambong Point bearing 284°, distant 1,850 yards, and Perunjuk Point 40°. Smaller vessels may anchor in the center of either bight, care being necessary in taking up a berth, the space between the reefs being confined. The village of Ambong is situated on the north side of the eastern arm of Ambong Bay. The Government station has been shifted to Usukan Bay, there being no trade here. Supplies. — Bullocks, goats, fowls, eggs, etc., can probably be pur- chased in Ambong at moderate prices, as heretofore. There are two watering places — one near the village; the other, and the most convenient (if previously cleared above its run), is at the beach northeastward of the anchorage. The quantity of water available depends much on the season. The telephone line from Tuaran to Khota Balud skirts the south- ern shore of Ambong Bay, and there is a bridle path from here to Sulaman River. Tangah and Saundal Bays lie between Ambong Bay and Saun- dal Point, and afford anchorage exposed to westerly winds in depths of from 7 to 10 fathoms. Foul ground extends 500 yards southwest- ward of Tangah Point. There is a village at the head of Tangah Bay. SAK POINT- — EEVNE SHOAL. 361 Jaga, a cliffy sandstone island, 150 feet in height, and thickly wooded, is situated near and within the south end of the reef extend- ing from Saundal Point. Sak Point — Shoals. — Sak Point lies a mile northeastward of Saundal Point. It and the shore between should be given a wide berth. Preston Shoal, with a least depth of 3 fathoms, lies 301° 1,400 yards from Saundal Point. Slime Rock, bearing 47°, leads westward of it. Sunk Rock, a small head which dries 5 feet at times, lies 700 yards 262° from Sak Point. A rocky ledge, with a least depth of 3f fathoms, extends nearly 800 yards northwest of Sunk Rock. The clearing marks for Sak Point dangers are Tangah Point, open of Saundal Point, and Shelter Point, open of Sak Point. Usukan Bay, situated about 4 miles northward of Ambong Bay, with general depths of 7 to 9 fathoms, is the best protected anchor- age on this coast north of Gaya Bay. It has an excellent watering place, and is the only convenient spot for communicating with Abai River. Its entrance is between Sak Point and Slime Rock, a mile apart, and its shores are everywhere fronted by drying coral reefs, to the distance of about 300 yards. Slime Rock, 14 feet in height, is situated on a shoal half a mile in extent, lying off the southwest side of Usukan Island. It is a useful mark during hazy weather. The shoal extends nearly 400 yards southward of Slime Rock, with a rock with less than 6 feet water near its extreme. Iris Rock, dry 3 feet at low-water springs, lies near the north end of the shoal about 600 yards distant from Slime Rock. Between the shoal and Usukan Island are fairway depths of 3^ fathoms. Reyne Shoal, a patch of 4 fathoms, lies on the north side of the fairway of the entrance, about 1.400 yards 46° from Sak Point, and is steep-to. Directions. — From the southward the extreme of Abai Bluff seen between Usukan Island and the main, bearing 68°, will lead outside the dangers off Sak Point; when Shelter Point opens of Sak Point haul into the bay for the customhouse, about 96°. From the northward, after passing Alert Rock, steer with Jaga Islet bearing 187°, which will give Slime Rock a berth of about 800 yards ; when Slime Rock bears 50° haul in for the customhouse, bear- ing 104°, which leads 300 yards southward of Reyne Shoal; thence to the anchorage as requisite; a convenient berth is with the custom- house pier 84°, distant 1,000 to 1,200 yards, in about 8 fathoms. In order to avoid the prevailing swell during the summer months a 362 NOETHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. small vessel might anchor farther south, with Sak Point in line with Shelter Point, 700 yards from the latter, in 7 fathoms. Tides.^It is high water, full and change, at lOh. 15m. ; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. Settlement — Pier. — The Government settlement, formerly in Am- bong Bay, has been moved to the head of Usukan Bay; it has a lightly constructed pier, alongside which small coasting craft (which call fortnightly) lie. The port is the principal outlet of trade from the interior, which consists of cattle, fowls, hides, jungle produce, birds' nests, etc. Water is obtainable from the streams at the head of the bay, except possibly at the end of a long drought. Usukan Island, fronting Abai Eiver entrance, is a prominent feature on the coast, standing out clear from the land, when seen from a vessel near the coast. It is 470 feet in height, conical, and partly covered with timber. Its grassy slopes and hill tops in con- trast with the dense forests on the main render it remarkable. At low water springs its southeast extreme is connected with the shore by a sandspit, which dries 3 feet. Abai River. — The approach from the northward is between Usu- kan Island and Abai Bluff, half a mile apart. It is blocked by a sand bar with a depth of 3 feet only at low water. Within this bar are depths of 2 to 3 fathoms, and the fairway depth is not less than 2 fathoms for 1.5 miles up, where there is a ferry. Beyond this the river is tortuous, and ends in swamps 3 miles from its mouth. In the northern approach, the bottom between Usukan Island and the mouth of the river is hard sand, and, unless vessels above 6 feet draft pass into the river, they are endangered by the swell and rollers, which would cause them to strike heavily. They must not, therefore, calculate on anchoring there. For boats only, the passage from the westward, southward of Usu- kan, is available at high water, when there would be a depth of about 3 feet over the bar. Supplies. — Abai village is situated within Abai Bluff. Water of fairly good quality can be obtained from wells. Cattle are occa- sionally procurable, but there is no trade. The Government station in Usukan Bay is only half la mile within the entrance of Abai Eiver. Coast. — The coast, a sandy beach fronting the extensive Pandasan Plain from Abia River to the entrance of the Tampassuk River, a distance of about 3.5 miles, is nearly straight, and from the very shelving nature of the whole extent of coast up to the Ant Islets is constantly subject to heavy rollers, rendering landing dangerous, if not impracticable. In standing toward this coast it is advisable not MAYNE SOCK KBANGA POINT. 363 to open Usukan Island of the land about Sak Point, or to stand into a less depth than 15 fathoms. Off-lying dangers. — Alert Rock, 250 yards in extent and barely covered at high water, over which the sea breaks^ is steep-to, and lies 8° distant 1.5 miles from the west extreme of Usukan Island. The entrance to Abai Eiver, open eastward of Usukan, bearing 160°, leads eastward of the rock, and Jaga Islet, bearing 193°, leads west- ward. Mayne Kock, of small extent, with a least depth of 1^ fathoms, lies with the west extreme of Usukan bearing 154°, distant 4 miles. North. Hill Kock, a coral patch 800 yards in length, with 1^ fathoms least water near its south extreme, lies 2.75 miles eastward of Mayne Rock, with the west extreme of Usukan Island bearing 192°, distant 4.1 miles. Tampassuk River is barred by a sand bank and only admits boats at high water under favorable circumstances. This river, with a somewhat insignificant entrance, drains a large tract of country extending to the foot of Mount Kina Balu, and is subject to sudden freshets. Pindasan River. — From Tampassuk River the coast is a sandy beach as far as Pindasan River, southward of Kranga Point, near which it terminates. Landing on it is difficult, owing to the prevail- ing swell, but it may be safely approached by the lead. The entrance to the river appeared to be studded with rocks projecting from the cliffs of the opposite shore. It is only available for boats at high water under favorable conditions. The village of same name is about 1 mile up, beyond which the river is lost in the swamps. Arsat Rock, on which the sea generally breaks, has two small heads which are awash at high water springs. It lies with the Outer Ant Islet bearing 63°, distant 4.5 miles, and Usukan Island just open of the land about Sak Point. If the objects overlap, a vessel will pass outside the shoal. Shallow water extends 800 yards northeast of the rock. A depth of 20 fathoms should be preserved during the night when in this neighborhood. ' Kranga Point — ^Ant Islets. — Kranga Point, situated about a mile northward of Pindasan River, is moderately high and some- what conspicuous, appearing as a sloping grassy point with hills rising to a height of 925 feet and continued to the northward. It is fronted by a reef studded with rocks to a distance of three-quar- ters of a mile. On this reef near the point are the two Ant Islets, the highest being 75 feet high. About a quarter of a mile beyond the reef are the Ant Rocks, an isolated group just above high water and steep-to. Vessels shouV not pass within them. 364 A'OETHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. Umpoh Shoals. — About 1.5 miles northeastward of the Ant Kocks are two shoals outside the 10-f athom contour ; the southernmost has a least depth of 5 fathoms. Aspect— Mount Kina Balu. — When passing along this coast the rugged mass of Mount Kina Balu, the summit of which culminates in many Serrated peaks of equal height near its south extreme and attains a height of 13,450 feet, presents a fine appearance, and may be seen at a distance of 130 miles in very clear weather; its summit is, however, generally enveloped in clouds during the greater part of the day. Northward of the summit it declines in a gradual slope for 4 miles before it falls abruptly. Mount Tambuyukon, of rounded form, is ,8,445 feet in height and forms part of ihe same range. Gunon^ Sadok Sadok, 5,500 feet in height, lies 4.5 miles westward of Kina Balu, and from, the northward appears as a sharp cone. Sir James Brooke B.ange. — Nine miles north-northwest of Mount Tambuyukon commences the Sir James Brooke Eange, with a deep valley between. The three principal peaks of this range are easily distinguished, the southernmost and highest, Mount Madalon, 3,955 feet high, having a rounded appearance. The mountain ranges ter- minate in Mourtt Cochrane, which rises gradually to a rounded sum- mit 2,600 feet high at 5 miles within Bisa Island. Northward of these the hills are not above 1,400 feet in height. Coast — Gasap Point. — From Kranga Point the coast trends north- eastward about 8.5 miles to Bisa Island. Gasap Point, about mid- way, is foul to the distance of about half a mile, and the point a little northeastward of Gasap Point is fronted by a reef with rocks to the distance of about three-quarters of a mile and steep-to. The coast on either side is fronted by the shore reef to about 600 yards in places, and a patch of 3 fathoms is charted 1.7 miles 8° of Gasap Point. Landing is diiEcult. A vessel should not stand into less than 12 fathoms. The land here is moderately high. Bisa Island, 220 feet in height, composed of black basalt and thickly wooded, lies close to the mainland, with which it is connected at low water, affording boat shelter on either side. OfE-lying islands and dangers — Mantanani Islands, situated between 12 and 17 miles westward of Bisa Island, consists of two wooded coral islands and an islet named Nob. Tree Island, the eastern one, rises abruptly at its northwest ex- treme to a well-defined wooded ridge 270 feet high, the remainder being flat, low, and densely wooded. The western island is a mile in length by 150 yards in breadth and is comparatively low and wooded, the highest part being at the west extreme, where the tree tops are 160 feet above the sea. SUNKEN BARRIER SHOALS CORAL BANKS. 365 A shallow ridge connects the islands, there being no safe passage between. Nob Islet, 205 feet high, of symmetical rounded form, lies close otf the western extreme of Tree Island. These islands, which serve as useful landmarks, being visible up- ward of 20 miles in clear weather, are uninhabited, except during the season when the edible birds' nests are collected from the caves which exist here. (See note on chart re position.) Foul ground extends for upward of 2 miles in an easterly direc- tion from Tree Island, and 1.75 miles from the western extremity of the western island. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage on either side of the islands depending on the monsoon. Numerous detached banks surround the islands, with depths apparently of not less than 6 fathoms, the posi- tions of which can be best seen on the chart. Caution is necessary, as it is possible others of less depth may exist. Landing on the island is easily effected. There is no inducement, beyond wooding, for any vessel to touch at this island. Caution — Sunken Barrier Shoals. — The survey of the Merlin (1909-1910) revealed the existence of a chain of coral shoals, the depths on j;hem varying from 4 to 9 fathoms, with deep water be- tween, situated between the Mangalum Island and the Mantanani Islands, known as the Sunken Barrier Shoals, the eastern limits of which have only been at present defined. These shoals are generally plainly visible, but vessels should not attempt to cross over them, as it is very probable that shoaler water may exist than is at. present charted. There is a safe passage apparently between them and the main not less than 15 miles broad. St. Joseph. Reef, on which the French barque St. Joseph, of 10 feet draft, struck in 1877, is the principal danger in this locality. It was found by the surveying vessel Merlin, 1910, to be situated on the southwest extreme of a coral shoal 1.75 miles in length, with a depth of 3 fathoms. The reef is awash at low water, and 70 yards in extent, and situated in latitude 6° 34' 40" north, longitude 116° 04' 40" east. Depths 2^ fathoms exist half a mile east-northeastward of the reef. Coral Banks. — ^An extensive coral bank, with depth of 5 to 9 fathoms, the limits of which have not been determined, was found by the Merlin in 1909. The center of its south side is situated ap- proximately in latitude 6° 32' north, longitude 116° 0' east. It may be connected with St. Joseph Reef. A similar coral bank named Bunbury Shoals, with a diameter of 5 miles, with general depths of 5 to 9 fathoms, lies southwestward of 366 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. the above-mentioned bank. The shoalest part found, 4 fathoms, is about 1.5 miles in diameter, and situated in latitude 6° 25' 45" north, longitude 115° 55' 45" east. Francis Bank, a coral bank, with general depths of 6^ to 8 fath- oms, lies southwestward of the last-mentioned bank, as "charted. From this bank an extensive coral bank was observed stretching in a west and southwest direction, the extent of which is not laiown. (See the chart, which has a patch of 4| fathoms in latitude 6° 20' 00" north, longitude 115° 48' 40" east.) . South Furious Shoals, a group of coral patches lying from 5 to 10 or more miles northwestward of the Mantanani Islands, were dis- covered in August, 1859, by the Furious, and examined in 1863 by the Rifieman, which vessel anchored upon a coral bank, with 7 fathoms water, barely half ,a mile in extent, 328°, distant 8 miles from the western extreme of Mantanani Islands, or in latitude 6° 49' 30" north, longitude 116° 14' 00" east. Patches 6^ to 7 and 9 fathoms are charted from 6 to 9 miles eastward of this bank. At about 2 miles 204° of the 7- fathoms bank another of 7 fathoms, about a mile in extent, has been reported. Westward and southwest- ward of this bank for many miles are other and more extensive banks, the limits of which have not been determined. These banks are steep-to, with very irregular depths around them, and less water may exist. Barton Shoal, upon which the least depth found is 6| fathoms, lies 8 miles north of the Mantanani Islands (originally reported as awash).. Worth Furious Shoals are three coral patches lying about ^8 miles due north of the Mantanani Islands and were also examined in the Rifleman. These shoals extend northwest and southeast nearly 2 miles. The least water found upon them was 7 fathoms, in lati- tude 7° 01' 00" north, longitude 116° 19' 30" east. The depths around are very irregular. Shoals. — The American ship Big Bonanza, drawing 17 feet water, struck on a shoal, since found by the British ship Merlin, 1910, to be situated on the east extreme of a coral bank named Big Bonanza Shoal 7 miles in length, in an east and west direction, and 2 miles in breadth, with general depths of 6 to 9 fathoms. The shoal is of small extent, with a least depth of 2J fathoms, and situated in lati- tude 7° 05' 45" north, longitude 116° 24' 45" east. A coral bank, circular in form, having a diameter of 1.25 miles, upon which the least depth found is 7 fathoms, lies 5.5 miles south- eastward of Big Bonanza. This is named Harington Shoal. Coast — Bisa Point to Agal Point. — The coast between these two points, about 14 miles apart, is somewhat irregular. About midway WHITE EOCKS TANJONG AGAL AOAL. 367 is Ganda Point, with a bay on either side, both encumbered by dangers. White Rocks, situated 24°, 3.5 miles from Bisa Island and 2 miles from the shore, consist of a cluster of rocks, the highest being 43 feet in height, standing near the south edge of the reef extending 2.5 miles in a northerly direction and about 1,400 yards wide. On the northern part of this reef are several rocks, which cover at half tide, named White Rock Eeef. White Rock Bay, the bight in the coast eastward of White Rocks, is somewhat difficult to approach from the dangers that lie at its two entrances. The southern entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide between the foul ground southward of White Rocks, and Harry Shoal, with IJ fathoms water, situated 167°, 1.5 miles from White Rocks. The northern entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide between White Rocks Reef and the foul ground which extends a mile off Jahat Point. Directions. — By southern entrance: The west extreme of Bisa Island kept bearing 217°, leads in the fairway of the southern en- trance, and when the southern of the two remarkable rocks known as the Beehive, 38 feet high, situated offshore in the bay, bears 81° a vessel will be past the IJ-fathom shoal and may alter course to the desired anchorage, for which the chart is the best guide. By northern entrance: The northernmost Beehive Rock, 34 feet high, kept bearing 154°, will lead through the entrance to the center of the bay. Coast. — From Jahat Point to Tanjong Agal Agal the shore is fronted by reefs for about 1.5 miles. Ganda Point, a rocky bluff, is foul to a distance of 600 yards. Agal Bay lies about midway between Ganda Point and Tanjong Agal Agal. It is nearly a mile wide, but blocked by reefs extending from both shores. The Garu River, or creek, discharges into its head, which is shallow. The bay is said to afford secure anchorage for small craft in a depth of 4 fathoms during the northeast monsoon period. A patch of 3 fathoms lies a mile southwest of the north point of Agal Bay, not far from the edge of the reef fronting the point. Tanjong Agal Agal derives its name from a species of fucus which is collected on its rocky ledges by the fishermen for sale, simi- lar to birds' nests and trepang. It is low and difficult to distinguish. Reef. — A narrow reef, studded with rocks, extends 1.5 miles 283° from Tanjong Agal Agal, and is steep-to on both sides, the lead affording no warning. During the southwest monsoon some shelter may be obtained under the lee of Agal Point Reef. 368 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. Batumandi, composed of yellow sandstone and 53 feet high, lies nearly 2.25 miles from Agal Point on the same bearing as the reef. Its surrounding reef is steep-to and separated by a narrow passage from Tanjong Agal Agal Eeef. In proceeding northeastward a distance of 3 miles from the shore should be observed from Tanjong Agal Agal, keeping outside the depth of 10 fathoms. The rollers are heavy on this shore. The Kurina, navigable for boats at high water, has its entrance on the sandy beach in front of a white cliff, 3 miles northeastward of Tanjong Agal Agal. A few other unimportant streams discharge into this bay. Two detached cliffs 30 and 50 feet high are near the beach, situated 1 and 2.75 miles, respectively, northward of Tanjong Agal Agal. The southernmost is of reddish hue; the northern is white. They are the only distinguishing features. Reef. — There is a reef which dries 4 feet situated 2.5 miles 199° from Katiga Point, and to the northward of it are several shoal patches, with darker water around. Aspect. — Northward of White Rocks Bay the land rises to numer- ous densely wooded hills, distant 3 miles from the coast, the highest and most conspicuous of which is Station Hill, 1,390 feet high. Northward of the parallel of Batumandi is a plain stretching across to Marudu Bay. At Katiga Point the high land again commences and extends as far northward as Sampanmangio Point, the highest hills being 790 feet high. Katiga Point is a black rocky promontory 6.6 miles northeastward of Tanjong Agal Agal. It is foul to a distance of 600 to 800 yaxds. The Ruru stream discharges northward of the point, barred by a reef. From Katiga Point northward to Sampanmangio Point, distant about 5 miles, the shore is fronted by reefs and rocks to about half a mile in places. Kadua and Pertama Points lie between ; both appear on the charts as islets connected with the shoal by a shallow ridge. At one-third of a mile northward of Pertama Point is a patch of li fathoms.. Northwest point of Borneo. — Sampanmangio Point, the northwest extreme of Borneo and the western point of Marudu Bay, though somewhat low, is readily distinguished by the tall casuarinas which rise from its grassy bluff and by the island of Kalampunian off it. It is backed by hills over 700 feet in height. From the point the coast trends southeastward for 7 miles to Tanjong Aru or First Point, and is bordered by rocks and shoal water extending off half a mile in places. Kalampunian Island, 1 mile northward of Sampanmangio Point, is of sandstone formation, similar to the nearest bluff of that point, MAEUDU BAY KUDAT HAEBOR. 369 and rises abruptly from a flat to the height of 40 feet. It is small, wedge-shaped, and covered with bushes. A reef which dries, on which is a somewhat conspicuous sand bank, extends half a mile in a southeast direction from it. There is a safe channel 600 yards wide between it and the main- land having a least depth of 6J fathoms. The dangers are visible and are easily avoided by a careful lookout from aloft, but it offers no advantage. Current. — During the progress of the survey by the Merlin on the northwest coast of Borneo during the summer months (southwest monsoon period) the current was found to be always setting to the northeast, seldom exceeding a velocity of 1 Icnot. Marudu Bay, at the head of which the Marudu Eiver discharges, is about 25 miles in length in a southerly direction and about 11.5 miles in width at its entrance, between Tanjong Aru or First Point and Cape Mafsie on the east, in which are depths of 13 to 18 fathoms, decreasing gradually toward the head of the bay, which is shallow to the distance of 3.5 miles. Aspect. — Low hills rise from the western shore of this bay to a height of about 600 feet ; Melau Besar, 680 feet high, and Matungun, 1,360 feet high, are easily recognized, the summit of the former being bare and flat, while the latter is thickly wooded. From the eastern shore the hills rise to a height of over 2,000 feet and are all thickly wooded. The rivers flowing into Marudu Bay shift their channels after each rainy season, and are only available for boats after the beacons have been again placed in position. Anchorage may be obtained in depths of from 5 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, almost anywhere toward the sides of Marudu Bay. Western shore. — From Tanjong Aru the coast trends south- southeast for 4.75 miles to Tanjong Kapor or Second Point, and is foul to a distance of half a mile. At 2 miles southeastward of Tan- jong Aru and three-quarters of a .mile offshore are two patches of 4J fathoms, with 8 to 10 fathoms around. From Tanjong Kapor, which is 60 feet high, the coast trends south-southwest about 1 mile to Tanjong Bornugus, at the entrance to Kudat Harbor. A reef of sand and coral, which dries in patches, extends two-thirds of a mile from the shore. Kudat Harbor, situated on the western shore of Marudu Bay, extends westward about 4 miles, and is 1.3 miles wide in the entrance between Tanjong Bornugus on the north and Tanjong Tigasamil on the south. It affords anchorage in 4 to T fathoms water, sheltered from the swell during the northeast monsoon by the reef of sand and coral which extends about three-quarters of a mile from its 90045—15 24 370 NORTHWEST COAST OF BOENBO. north entrance point, above mentioned. At about 1 mile within the entrance points the water shoals to 3 fathoms and less. On the northern side of the harbor, westAvard of the settlement, is a shallow bay more than a mile wide between the Residency and Egeria Bluff and three-quarters of a mile deep, into the northwest- ern corner of which the Bum Bun River discharges. The river has 1^ feet in its entrance, and to about half a mile above Egeria .Bluff, at low-water springs, with from 2 to 3 fathoms, for a distance of 1.5 miles above. At nearly a mile westward of Egeria Bluff the land at- tains an elevation of 411 feet. At 2.5 miles within the entrance the width of the harbor contracts to 1,100 yards, expanding again at the head and forming three shallow bays, into the southern of which the Tegarangan River dis- charges. This river has 1| feet at low-water springs in the entrance, with from 2 to 5 fathoms within, over a distance of 1.25 miles. White Rock, 27 feet high, lies about 200 yards from the southern shore of the harbor, about 2 miles within the entrance. Between the entrance and White Rock the south shore is bordered by a reef extending off a quarter of a mile in places. The hills on the south- ern side of the harbor have an elevation of from 212 to 460 feet. Landmarks. — Conspicuous objects in Kudat Harbor are Sandi- lands Rock Lighthouse, the pier, town flagstaff, Gueritz Rock Beacon, and White Rock. Dangers — Sandilands !Rock, with 6 feet least water, and situ- ated in the center of the entrance, is about 150 yards in length east and west, and 50 yards in breadth. There is a pile lighthouse on it. Witti Bock, with less than 6 feet water and a depth of 3 fathoms close northward, lies 17° true, distant 540 yards from Sandilands Rock Lighthouse ; another patch of less than 6 feet water lies south- southwestward from it, distant 200 yards. Gueritz Bock — Beacon.— Gueritz Rock, with about 3 feet water, lies 150°, distant 600 yards from the harbor jetty light, and is marked by a wooden beacon 12 feet in height, surmounted by a white top- mark. Gueritz Rock forms the southwest extreme of the bank which stretches off two-thirds of a mile between Tanjong Kapor or Second Point and Tanjong Bornugus. A shoal 250 yards, having depths of 2 and 3 fathoms, lies about 200 yards off the eastern edge of this bank, at 600 yards northward of Witti Rock. A rock, with less than 6 feet water, lies in the middle of the harbor 241°, distant three-quarters of a mile from the Residency flagstaff. It has depths of 1| to 1^ fathoms around it. Datum Biock, only covered at the highest springs, lies on the edge of the bank fronting the shore westward of the harbor jetty. TIGASAMIL SPIT KUDAT. 371 Tigasamil Spit — Beacon. — ^Tigasatail Spit, which dries, extends nearly 800 yards northeastward of Tanjong Tigasamil, the southern entrance point of Kudat Harbor, with depths of about 3 feet, in- creasing to 1 and 2-J fathoms at 300 yards beyond, with 9 to 10 fathoms close to. The northeast extremity of the spit is marked with a beacon in a depth of 12 feet. An islet 20 feet high lies close off Tanjong Tigasamil. A reef, which dries, extends 500 yards northward of the point within Tigasamil, with Tern Rock, 4 feet high, standing upon it. Iiights. — ^A fixed red and green light, visible 2 miles in clear weather, is exhibited at an elevation of 7 feet above high water from a white pile beacon erected on Sandilands Rock. For sectors, see light list and plan. A fixed red light is exhibited from the harbor jetty, visible sea- ward, but obscured over the western part of the harbor. Anchorage. — The best anchorage is in about 6J fathoms, mud, southward of the settlement, with the flagstaff near Tanjong Bor- nugus bearing 354°, distant about 1,300 yards, and Sandilands Rock light beacon 84°. Sandilands Rock light is obscured over this anchorage. Vessels may anchor nearer the settlement in 3f to 5 fathoms, according to draft. Directions. — After passing Kalampunian Island the coast should not be approached within 2 miles, and when abreast of Tanjong Aru or First Point a remarkable hill, Melau Besar, will be seen south- ward of Kudat Harbor. This hill, kept bearing 199° well open east- ward of the islet off Tanjong Tigasamil, will, lead eastward of the reef extending from Tanjong Kapor and Tanjong Bornugus and of Sandilands Rocks ; and when Johnstone Bluff, on the northern shore near the head of Kudat Harbor, bears 275° it may be steered for, passing between the pile beacon light on Sandilands Rocks and Tiga- samil Spit beacon to the anchorage. If proceeding to the inner anchorage or the jetty, take care to avoid Gueritz Rock. If entering at night and having passed about 300 yards southward of Sandilands light, showing green, on about a 275° course, anchor when the jetty light bears 345° in 6^ fathoms, as in daytime. Sandi- lands light will be obscured before reaching this position. Caution. — The beacons are not to be depended on. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Kudat Harbor at about lOh. 50m. ; springs rise 5^ to 6^ feet ; neaps rise 4J feet. The tidal streams are weak, the maximum velocity observed during a stay of three months being half a knot. Kudat, a settlement of the North Borneo Co., is situated on the north point of the entrance to the harbor. It owes its importance to its being the distributing center for the various tobacco and rubber estates in the vicinity. 372 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. In 1911 the population numbered about 2,000. There is a native hospital, several churches, and Government offices. A resident lives at Kudat, and also officials of the North Borneo Co. The residency is near the point, half a mile westward of Tan- jong Bornugus, and has a flagstaff and small pier. Jetty. — Vessels of 16 feet draft can lie afloat alongside the jetty at the south extreme of the settlement. Trade. — The chief exports are tobacco, cutch, timber, camphor, and beeswax. Over 1,125,000 pounds of tobacco are shipped annually to Europe. Shipping. — In 1910 the number of vessels entered was 169. Communications. — The North German Lloyd steam vessels, trad- ing between Singapore and Sandakan, call every two weeks, and those trading between Singapore and Hongkong call monthly. Fre- quent communication by local steamers is maintained with Sandakan. Kudat is connected by telegraph with Labuan, Jesselton, and San- dakan, and with the world in general via Labuan by submarine cable. Supplies. — The water supply is not good; none is obtainable for shipping. Beef is fairly plentiful and good ; fowls are plentiful and cheap ; vegetables and bread are scarce. There is no CQ.al. Climate. — The mean maximum temperature is 87° F. and the mean minimum 74°. From May to August the temperature reaches 92° at times. Kainfall is about 130 inches. December to March are the most rainy months, about 85 inches falling in that period; the remainder is distributed over the other months. The southwest monsoon is the most unhealthy period at Kudat ; fever is then preva- lent and rather severe ; whilst at the opposite season, with the wind coming across the sea, it is almost absent. PALAWAN PASSAGE. General remarks. — The dangers near the coast of Palawan Island are described with the coast in Philippine Islands Sailing Directions, Sections VI and VII, issued by the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, for the assistance of vessels navigating inshore, though with the present small scale chart, it is not recommended that this should be done without local knowledge, unless obliged to enter the ports of western Palawan. The dangers near the edge of the bank, with depths of less than 100 fathoms, which fronts the coast of Palawan to the distance of 15 to 30 miles, and forms the east side of Palawan Passage, have been described in groups, with the coast abreast which they lie, as the land is in sight from them. Those bordering that portion of the China Sea charted as " Dan- gerous ground," and which form the western side of Palawan Pas- PALAWAN PASSAGE BOMBAY SHOAL. 373 sage, will now be described, followed by those included in the " Dan- gerous ground," from Ardasier Bank, near the south extreme round northward, westward, and southward to the same bank. Dangers on the western side of Palawan Passage. — Half- Moon Shoal has a rock named the Inclined Rock (latitude 8° 51' north, longitude 116° 16' east) , which always shows above water, on its southeastern side. The shoal, formed by a belt of coral even with the water's edge, of an average width of about 200 yards, is of ob- long shape, nearly 3 miles in length, in a northeast and southwest direction, with a breadth of 1 mile. On the eastern side, at 400 and 1,000 j'ards southward of the Inclined Rock, there are two channels into the lagoon, the southernmost of which has a depth of 4 to 9 fathoms, and is marked by a cluster of rocks on its north side awash at half tide, and which generally show. Other half-tide rocks are interspersed over the belt. The average depth in the lagoon is 14 to 16 fathoms, with numerous patches of coral scattered about it. From the shoals, Balabac Peak (not in sight) bears 141°, distant 71 miles. Tides. — It was high water, five days after full and change, at Half- moon Shoal at lOh. 45m., and the rise about 4 feet. Royal .Captain Shoal lies 69° about 24 miles from Half -Moon Shoal, contracting Palawan Passage, which is here the narrowest part, to about 27 miles between it and the shoal heads on the bank southward of Paragua Ridge. Observation Rock, at its north ex- tremity, shows at half tide, is in latitude 9° 02' north, longitude 116° 39' east, and from it Bulanhau Mountain bears 120°, distant 48 miles. In clear weather the high land of Mantalinghan is visible from this distance. The shoal is elliptical, the length being 1.75 miles in a northwest and southeast direction, with a breadth of 1 mile. The coral belt, on which a few rocks are visible at low water, is covered at high water, and varies in width from 100 to 400 yards. There are depths of 15 to 17 fathoms, sand and coral, with several coral patches in the lagoon. There is no entrance, but at high water a boat can cross the belt. The outer edge is steep-to, having no bottom, with upward of 100 fathoms within 100 yards of the reef. Bombay Shoal lies 31° about 30 miles from the Royal Captain Shoal, and is steep-to. From Madagascar Rock, on its northeast extreme, in latitude 9° 26' north, longitude 116° 56' east, which shows at half ebb, Mantalingahan Mountain bears 130°, distant 56.5 miles, and is visible in clear weather. This shoal is circular in shape, and about 1 mile in diameter. The lagoon, in which there are depths of 16 to 18 fathoms, sand, is com- pletely inclosed by the coral belt, on which three or four rocks show 374 NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. at half tide, the most conspicuous being at the northwest and west extremes of the shoal. Tides. — It was high water, seven days after full and change, at the Bombay Shoal, at noon; rise about 4 feet. While the tide was rising, the current was observed setting to the northeastward. Carnatic Shoal, charted 31° true, 47 miles from Bombay Shoal, is referred to with other doubtful shoals below. Seahorse or Routh Shoal, forming the northernmost known danger on the western side of Palawan Passage, was examined by the surveying vessel Rifleman. It is a pear-shaped coral bank 8 miles in length in a north-northeast and opposite direction and from 3 to 4.5 miles in breadth. The least known depth is 4^ fathoms, which was found on a patch about three-quarters of a mile in extent at the north extreme of the bank, in latitude 10° 60' north, longitude 117° 47' east. No less depth than 6 fathoms was obtained on any of the other patches surrounding the lagoon. The depths in the lagoon vary from 17 to 20 fathoms at the edge to 35 fathoms in the center. Dangerous ground. — Shoals, the positions of which are only ap- proximate, lying out. of the tracks recommended for vessels: Caution. — The shoals lying in and bordering the main route through the China Sea will be found in the Asiatic Pilot, Volume IV. The shoals about to be described lie out of the tracks recom- mended for shipping, and the following valuable observations of Horsburgh should be carefully attended to: The archipelago of sand banks, rocks, or reefs above and under water lyinj, between the coast of Palawan and Piilo Sapatu is so extensive and the dangers that form it so numerous that there can be little utility In entering Into a minute description of them, for, indeed, they ought to be avoided by all navi- gators. No vessel can enter within the limits of this dangerous archipelago, marked by a pecked line, without getting embarrassed amidst the shoals. There are strong currents or irregular tidal streams among them, which render a vessel's position very uncertain when observations can not be obtained. Although some vessels have with difficulty and risk passed through them, others have struck or lost their anchors amongst the extensive coral flats, and many have been wrecked. Most of the disasters which have happened to shipping in this portion of the China Sea have been consequent upon a disregard of the above advice. Order in describing. — In the following descriptions we shall first refer to those shoals which lie near the Palawan Passage, beginning from the south extreme, near Ardasier Bank and following the bank around northeastward to the northwest end of Palawan Passage, thence westward and southward to the same bank. Note. — The original reports of many of these shoals will be found in the nautical magazines in the year or that following the dates herein given. MARIVELES REEF — COMMODORE REEX^ 375 Breakers were reported to have been seen in 1860 in latitude 7° 38' north, longitude 113° 53' east (westward of Ardasier Bank), by Mr. Dallas while proceeding from the wreck of the Fiery Cross to Labuau in the boats. (See Lizzie Webber Shoal, described below.) Mariveles Beef. — The Spanish steam vessel Mariveles, 1879, struck on a coral reef reported to lie in latitude 7° 58' north, longi- tude 113° 50' east. This 'reef is said to be about 4 miles in length, •2 miles in breadth, and to be nearly awash, with a depth oi 54 fathoms close-to. Gloucester and Ardasier Breakers are two doubtful shoals ; the former is placed upon the chart in latitude 7° 50' north, longitude 114° 15' east, and the latter in latitude 7° 56' north, longitude 114° 02' east. It is probable that these reported dangers, including the breakers mentioned above, form part of Ardasier Bank. Investigator Shoal, examined by Capt. Crawford, of the Indian navy surveying vessel Investigator, in 1813, is about 20 miles in length, east and west, by 4 miles in breadth ; its western extreme is in latitude 8° 05' north, longitude 114° 31' east. Cay Marino is a doubtful shoal, charted in latitude 8° 30' north, longitude 114° 21' east. Southwest and Northeast Shea Shoals were seen by Mr. Shea, coinmanding the Buckinghamshire, in 1833. The first shoal appeared to consist of two reefs of rocks, with high breakers, extending 1.5 miles east and west and half a mile north and south, the center of which was found to be in latitude 7° 59' north, longitude 114° 52' east. The other shoal appeared to consist of two dry white banks, with a ridge of rocks extending from them to the westward about 2 miles, Avhich was considered to be in latitude 8° 30' north, longitude 115° 15' east. North Viper Shoal, or Seahorse, reported to be about 5 miles in extent, with rocks above water, is charted in latitude 8° 02' north, lon- gitude 115° 23' east. The reported position of this shoal was not examined by the Rifleman. The Saracen passed near it without see- ing iuiy appearance of shoal water, but from the following account of a reef seen by Mr. Baird this danger would appear to lie 17 miles 7° from its ascribed .position on the chart. Commodore Reef. — Mr. Hugh Baird, commanding the ship Com- modore, reported as follows: On 2iM December, ISOii. at S a. lu., saw what I took to be tlie North Viper shoal, or Seahorse, the northeast eud bearing by compass north-northweSt 3 miles. It seemed to extend over 3 miles northeast and southwest, and to be composed of partly dry sand, with several rocks from 20 to 30 feet above water, and heavy breakers nil around it. At noon it bore west by south, distant about G miles. Observations placed the shoal in latitude S° 22' north, longitude 115° 25' east. 376 * NOETHWBST COAST OF BOKNEO. Grlasgow Bank.— Mr. Baird, commanding the ship Glasgow, 1865, is said to have discovered a bank in latitude 8° 29' north, longitude 115° 31' east. It apparently extended from this position for a distance of 3 miles to its northeast edge, and was composed of sand and roclry heads, in some places 20 to 30 feet above water. It is possibly identical with Commodore Eeef . ^ Director Shoal. — The British bark Director, on November 8, 1887, when bound from Singapore to Shanghai, is reported to have struck on a shoal in latitude 8° 28' north, longitude 115° 56' east. Alicia Annie Shoal. — Capt. E. Kirby, 1865, reported having seen a reef in latitude 9° 25' north, longitude 115° 19' east, of lagoon form, 3 miles in length, northwest and southeast. It had a low sand bank at its northwest end and a reef of rocks at its southeast extreme, with several detached rocks around. Soundings were tried for at a quarter of a mile from the southeast end, but no bottom was found with 100 fathoms of line. First Thomas shoal was made the next day, and the chronometer showed it to be 2 miles west of its position on the chart. Two shoals, marked Pennsylvania, are charted between this shoal and Northeast Shea Shoal. First and Second Thomas Shoals appear by the chart to have been seen in 1839. The first is placed in latitude 9° 18' north, longi- tude 115° 53' east; the second is shown as being 9 or 10 miles in length and 4 miles in breadth ; its southern part is charted in latitude 9° 41' north, longitude 115° 47' east. Investigator Northeast Shoal, reported in latitude 9° 12' north, longitude 116° 23' east, apparently awash. Pennsylvania and Sabina Shoals. — One of the many doubtful Pennsylvania Shoals is placed on the chart about 19 miles northward of Investigator Northeast Shoal, in latitude 9° 32' north, longitude 116° 22' east, and there are three other patches of that name about 10 iniles north and northeastward of Sabina. Sabina Shoal, charted in latitude 9° 42' north, longitude 116° 34' east, was discovered by the master of the Sabina in 1836, who saw "rocks with the sea breaking over them.'" It is probably identical with one or more of the above. Mr. E. Routh, commanding the Bombay (1837), with the Henry Clay in company, sighted breakers, which his observations placed nearly in the position of Sabina Shoal. Other Pennsylvania Shoals — Brown Shoals. — Another Penn- sylvania shoal is placed on the chart in latitude 10° 23' north, longi- tude 116° 33' east; and yet another, the Pennsylvania North Reef, in latitude 10° 49' north, longitude 116° 50' east. (Horsburgh places this shoal in longitutude 117° 10' east.) The positions of these are very doubtful, and it is probable that the shoals seen by CAENATIC SHOAL AMY DOUGLAS SHOAL. • 377 Mr. Brown commanding the Arabian, in 1838, were the same. The following is his account of them (in Nautical Magazine, 1838, p. 721) : On January 8, 1838, at 10.30 a. ni., passed close to windward of a coral patch, with apparently 5 or 6 fathoms water over it, in latitude 10° 30' north, longitude 116° 41' east. Wind was fresh, with a good deal of sea. Same day, at 3.S0 p. m., came suddenly into shoal water. Saw the rocks very distinctly under the bottom, had several casts of about 5 fathoms. We appeared to be on the southern edge of a coral flat, extending northeast and northwest from us for -some miles. By sights taken immediately we came off the shoal ; this part of it lies in longitude 117° 0' east, or 4' east of the Bombay Reef, which we left yesterday ; latitude 10° 35' north, which we observed at noon. The following day at 9 a. m., came again into shoal water; rocks seen close to our keel, but before we could get the lead forward we had passed over the ridge into 28 fathoms. From 9 a. m. to 11.30 a. m. ran 8 miles on a north- northwest course over irregular coral bottom, least water, by the lead, 11 fathoms, but at times we apparently had much less from the proximity on the coral rocks. We entered upon this flat in latitude 10° 39' north, longitude 117° 24' east; came ofC in latitude 10° 46' north, longitude 117° 19' east. The longitude computed from a series of sights before and after noon; the latitude by a good meridian altitude, four observers, and clear weather. In passing over this bank the water appeared very shoal east and west of us, lying in ridges in that direction. Carnatic Slioal is charted 31°, 47 miles from Bombay Shoal, in latitude 10° 06' north, longitude 117° 21' east, and is said to have as little as 3^ fathoms water on it. The British surveying vessel Royalist, in 1853, could not discover the shoal in the position assigned to it, or succeed in obtaining soundings with from 100 to 200 fathoms of line when in the neighborhood. Lord Auckland Shoal appears on the chart as a bank with from 8 to 30 fathoms water. The 8-fathoms part is in latitude 10° 21' north, longitude 117° 15' east. Fairy Queen Shoal, with 9 fathoms water, is charted in latitude 10° 39' north, longitude 117° 38' east. . A sandy shoal is charted in latitude 11° 02' north, longitude 117° 37' east, near the northeast extreme of the " Dangerous ground." Templer Bank. — The Minerva passed over a bank in November, 1835, having from 10 to 12 fathoms water. The bank appeared to extend about 4 miles north and south, and as no discolored water was seen to the eastward, but several apparently shoal patches were perceived to the westward, it is supposed that the vessel passed over the eastern part of the bank. The center of the bank is charted in latitude 11° 07' north, longitude 117° 13' east. Amy Douglas Shoal. — The Amy Douglas, 1860, passed over a shoal about noon, in latitude 10° 52' north, longitude 116° 25' east, ascertained from good observations. The water was observed to 378 NORTHWEST COAST OF feOENEO. f!. " be discolored for about a mile on ea(jh side of the ship, and, on sounding, a depth of 14 fathoms was obtained. The master was of opinion that the water was much shallower to the westward of the ship. Beed Bank. — The Rifleman obtained soundings of 47 fathoms on a coral bank in latitude 11° 28' north, longitude 116° 46' east; steering 105°, 3 miles farther, had 44 fathoms, and shortly after- wards 12 fathoms on a coral patch in latitude 11° 26' north, longitude 116° 53' east. Continuing the same course, the depths were 42 fathoms for a distance of 5 miles, when the water deepened. Marie Louise Shoal. — The German bark Marie Louise, 1885, passed over a shoal in latitude 11° 55' north, longitude 116° 51' east. A sounding was obtained in 15 fathoms, the bottom being seen and remaining visible for a distance of 600 or 800 yards; this is outside and northward of the pecked line inclosing the " Dangerous ground." West York Island, so named from the vessel wrecked on it in 1905, is situated in latitude 11° 05' 15" north, and longitude 115° 1' 80" east, near the northwest part of the "Dangerous ground." about 50 miles east-southeastward from North Danger Islands. It is of coral formation, and about 1 mile in length by half a mile in breadth, and 15 feet in height. On it are a few coconut trees and some other vegetation, and it is frequented by turtle and sea birds. A coral reef surrounds this island, which extends a quarter of a mile off-shore on its east side, and fully 2 miles to the southward. Anchorage was obtained by the United States vessel Nanshan, in 14 fathoms, with the north point of West York Island, bearing 205°, distant 2.5 miles. Chinese fishermen from Hainan appear to fre- quent it during the latter part of the northeast monsoon to gather trepang, as a josshouse, and three graves were found on the island, as well as an old iron cannon. Some remains of wrecks were also seen. A note on the chart states that numerous dangers exist in this neighborhood. Flat Island is a low sand cay about 250 yards across, and sur- rounded by a reef, which extends 2 to 3 miles from the cay in an easterly direction. The cay is charted in latitude 10° 49' north, longitude 115° 61' east, and about 16 miles southeast of its originally reported position. The Nanshan passed over that position without seeing any danger there. Third Thomas Shoal is charted in latitude 10° 62' north, longi- tude 115° 55' east, northeastward of Flat Island. Mischief. — Two reefs, marked on chart "Mischief, 1861," are charted abput 25 and 57 miles southward of Third Thomas, the KANSHAlSr ISLAND LIZZIE WEBBEE SHOAL. 379 second being about 10 miks ji^rthward of Second Thomas Shoal, before mentioned. Nanshan Island, situated'in latitude 10° 42' 15" north, longitude 115° 49' 30" east, is about 600 yards across, and appeared to be covered with small trees. Ganges Reefs. — About- 35 miles southward of West York Island is Ganges North Reef, charted in latitude 10° 32' north, longitude 115° 08' east. A Ganges Reef is also charted about 14 miles southward of the above, in latitude 10° 18' north, longitude 115° 04' east, and a third in latitude 9° 22' north, longitude 114° 11' east; all doubtful. Pennsylvania Reef, one of a number of that name, on the " Dan- gerous ground," is charted in latitude 10° 00' north, longitude 115° 10' east. Cornwallis Reef is shown as an extensive reef with rocks, just within the western edge of the " Dangerous ground," southward of Tizard bank and reefs, in latitude 10° 00' north, longitude 114° 23' east. Sin Cowe Island is charted 18 miles southward of Cornwallis Reef, in latitude 9° 42' north, longitude 114° 22' east. Fancy Wreck Shoal is charted in latitude 9° 43' north, longitude 114° 41' east. Cornwallis South Reef is charted in latitude 8° 50' north, longi- tude 114° 11' east. Pearson Reef was seen in 1843 by Mr. Pearson, commanding the Bahamian, who reported that he passed at about 3 miles from a shoal in latitude 8° 28' north, longitude 113° 40' east, which was about 2 miles in length in a north and south direction, with some rocks above water on the southern edge. Lizzie Webber Shoal. — Mr. Dallas reported that while returning in a small vessel, the Lizzie Weiher, to the wreck of the Fiery Gross in 1860 they struck upon a reef in latitude 8° 04' north, longitude 113° 12' east. This reef, which was very little under water, is a narrow strip of sand and coral lying in a northeast and southwest direction. This shoal is supposed to extend about 25 miles to the northeast- ward of the above position, for Mr. P. Orr, commanding the bark Canada, reported as follows: On December 24, 1864, at 12.30 a. m., the British bark Canada was wrecked on a reef in the China Sea — not marked on the charts. The ship's latitude brought on from the previous uoon was 8° 20' north, longitude 113° 29' east. After leaving the ship we skirted the weather side of the reef until noon ; when we cleared the south end I at that time got a meridian observation, which put us in latitude 8° 3' north ; we were then about 1 mile south of the reef, which is awash. I estimate the distance made in the boats from the time we left the ship till we -cleared the south end of the reef to be 25 miles. 380 XOHTHWEST COAST OF BOENEO. This latitude of the southern end of the shoal agrees within a mile with that of the Lizzie Webher. This completes the circle of the " Dangerous ground." DIHECTIONS FOR MAKING PASSAGES. VESSELS AVITH LOW STEAM POWEE OUTWARD BOUTE. Singapore to Manila — Northeast monsoon.— An alternative route to the full-powered route above mentioned and for vessels of less power is, after passing westward of the Anambas (see Asiatic Pilot, Vol. IV) , to steer about 30 miles westward of Prince of Wales Bank and North Danger Keef , thence direct. Palawan Koute. — Vessels with too little power to follow the alter- native route taken by full-powered vessels in the northeast monsoon are recommended to take the Palawan Passage. On leaving Singa- pore pass southward of Pengibu (Victory) and Kayu Ara (Barren) Islands, then steer to sight the small island of St. Pierre, on which a light is now established (carefully observing and allowing for" the set of the current) , and afterwards steer for Api Passage, keep- ing toward Merundung Island rather than Tanjong Api. Having passed Merundung and Tanjong Datu, the course is clear up to the entrance of the Palawan Passage, passing between the South Luconia Shoals and Tanjong Barram and keeping as close as circumstances may make convenient to the Borneo coast until abreast of that point. Thence a course should be shaped to keep seaward of the 100-f athom edge of the bank fronting Palawan to Balabac Island; thence mid- way between the Royal Captain Shoal and the edge of the bank. This portion, about 28 miles in width, is the narrowest and most dan- gerous part of the channel. If the wind be well to the southward and the weather thick, Bala- bac Island may be approached sufficiently near in order to obtain a good observation of the land, but caution is necessary not to go within 12 miles of it, as, soundings of 26 and 20 fathoms extend that dis- tance off, in a westerly direction from the peak, having shoal patches immediately inside them. If the wind be to the westward, with thick, cloudy weather, Bala- bac Island should not be approached nearer than 30 miles, as westerly winds usually force a strong easterly current through the passages. Off the southwest end of Palawan it is not unusual, particularly in squalls, for the wind to veer to west-northwest, and sometimes north- west, blowing with violence and placing the vessel on a lee shore with respect to the shoals inside the edge of the bank. This weather generally prevails off the southwest end of Palawan about September and October, rendering it uncertain and difficult to make the narrow- est part of the channel, owing to the land being obscured, especially SINGAPOEE TO LABUAN. * 381 if the position of the vessel has not been checked by observations. Under these circumstances it is advisable to proceed with caution, regulating the speed of the vessel so as to pass the Royal Captain Shoal during daylight. If uncertain of the vessel's position, endeavor to get soundings on the edge of the bank northwestward of Balabac Island, the safest part to approach for this purpose being about the elbow, on the parallel of 8° 30' north, or immediately to the southward of it; for it is believed that the edge of the portion of the bank with Balabac Peak bearing from 120° to 160°, comprising a distance of 25 miles, is free from danger. If the peak be obscured, the same bearings of the body of the island will answer. The experience of the surveyors led to the belief that in the thickest weather the land is seldom totally obscured for any length of time, but generally shows a well-defined outline between the squalls. Having obtained soundings (which will be about 90 fathoms, if close to the edge of the bank, and from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand, if inside), haul off to the northwestward, to give the edge a berth of about 10 miles, then steer a midchannel course. Having passed Bombay Shoal, steer a course parallel with the ■ edge of the bank, preserving a distance of 8 to 12 miles from it, and 27 to 30 miles from the land, or nearer, if convenient, and the peaks on Palawan are sufficiently distinct to get good cross bearings. It is, however, not desirable to get too close, as the edge of the bank, in about the parallels of 9° 30' and 10° 00' north, is not uniform [ in its outline, and several rocky patches lie within a mile, and in some places only 3 cables from the edge. The" course is slightly more northerly when abreast Ulugan Bay, where the bank extends 28 miles from the shore. Proceeding northward from the Palawan Passage, it is customary to steer along the west coast of Luzon to Cape Balinhasai, latitude 16° 26' north, and thence direct to Hongkong, passing to leeward of the Pratas. Singapore to Labuan — Both monsoons. — Vessels should take the Palawan Route, just described. SAILING VESSELS OUTWARD. Singapore to Tanjong Api — Southwest monsoon. — ^As far northward as the north entrance of Singapore Strait the tidal streams are tolerably regular, but some miles offshore a current will be found setting about north-northwest in the southwest mon- 382 • NOETHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. soon ; its greatest strength will be experienced between Pulo Tioman and the Anamba Islands. In order to obviate the effect of this set or current it is considered prudent to make good the course for Pulo Mendarik (Saddle Island) from Singapore Strait, by which, should light airs prevail, the option will be afforded of steering either between Pengibu (Victory) and Kayu Ara (Barren) Islands, or south of Kayu Ara, thus avoiding Acasta Rock. This caution may appear unnecessary, the distance between Kayu Ara and Dumdum (Camel) Islands being 33 miles; but a little consideration will satisfy the navigator that, upon the course shaped to counteract the current, running strong in the vicinity of these islands (to the northeastward as near as could be determined by the lines of scum viewed from the summit of Kayu Ara) , he would not, even with a fair wind, pass more than 10 miles to windward of Pengibu and Kayu Ara Islands. On leav- ing Kayu Ara a course, allowing for a northerly set, should be shaped to pass well to the southward of St. Pierre Islands (now lighted) and St. Pierre Light, whilst in sight, bearing 255°, and, steering an opposite course, will lead about 2 miles southward of Merundung Rock, the latter 8 feet above water. The depths from St. Pierre Rock, and in the direct course for Tanjong Api, range between 20 and 15 fathoms, and if approaching this point at night the first cast under 13 fathoms should be deemed the warning. By day, as the land is neared, the vessel's position may readily be determined, and there is no danger far beyond 1.5 miles from the point. Northeast monsoon. — See the Palawan Route, above. Singapore to Manila and Hongkong — ^Northeast monsoon — Palawan Route.— The passage to Manila and China by the" coasts of Palawan and Luzon is the recommended route for sailing vessels during the strength of the northeast monsoon. To proceed by this route: In December, January, and February sailing vessels should not leave the entrance of Singapore Strait in strong northeast winds, but anchor on the northern shore, under the Water Islands, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In those months gales often occur, with thick weather, the rain lasting two or three days, and the southrsoutheastward current outside attains a rate of 2| or 3 knots an hour. A vessel leaving the strait then, instead of fetching Pejantan (St. Barbe) Island, would fall bodily to leeward and have to work up the west coast of Borneo. Fine weather follows, with the wind backing around to north and northwest, and the current in the offing decreases in strength to about 1| knots. Leave the anchorage at the Water Islands in the eastern end of Singapore Strait with the first of the ebb and keep clean full. Steer SINGAPOKE TO MANILA AND HONGKONG. 383 to the northeastward to go through the channel between Subi Kechil (which is now lighted) and Great Natuna, southAvard of Midai, a passage that may without much difficulty be made in these months, especially at full and change, when, it is stated, the wind, after a few hours' calm, frequently shifts to the westward with squalls and rain, and then hauls around to southwest and south, blowing moderately for 24 hours. By taking advantage of these changes the Subi Islands may be easily weathered. After arriving in the vicinity of Midai (Low) Island, nearly in the fairway southwestward of Great Natuna, if the wind continue easterly, steer to the northward on the starboard tack, passing westward of Midai Island and keeping not less than 3 miles from its southwestern side to avoid the shoal water extending 2.5 miles from it. Pass about 5 miles westward of North Haycock, as the coral reefs about that island extend fully 3 miles from its southwest side, with least known depths of 3| fathoms. Vessels are not recommended to pass between North Haycock and Midai Island, on accoimt of the Diana Reefs, which extend some 14 miles north- ward of Midai. There would be no danger, however, if the wind permits of a vessel laying through and passing 4 or 5 miles south- ward of North Haycock and Postillion Rocks, thus giving a wide berth to Diana Reefs, provided those objects are available for cross bearings. The channel southward of Midai is far preferable if a vessel can lay through. If beating up, after passing North Haycock there will be no diffi- culty in working toward the south point of Great Natuna, as that island, when approached from the southwest, shelters against the strong southwest current of the monsoon. Off its southern shore at night, in fine weather, the wind is off the land, but the south and southeast shore should not be approached nearer than 6 or 7 miles, on account of the off-laying dangers. Sailing vessels fetching to leeward of Subi Islands with a north- erly wind should take Koti Pa'ssage, between Pulo Panjang and Serasan Island. The Serasan Passage is also safe when either side is kept aboard to avoid Haynes Shoal, the 3|-fathom patch in the fairway. The current among these islands is more regular than in Api Passage, where it sets in various directions, and with consider- able velocity southwestward from 16 to 19 hours at a time; for large vessels any of the other passages are preferable to this, as great caution and perseverance are requisite in working through. When using it the Borneo coast, in 10 to 11 fathoms water, must be kept aboard to avoid the current and to profit by the land winds. In taking Koti Passage give Pulo Panjang a good berth to avoid the reef which surrounds it and extending off its southwest end. 384 NOETHWEST COAST OF BORNEO. The winds amongst these islands and as far eastward as the meridian of Tanjong Sirik are generally from north to north-northwest. The passage cleared, proceed to the northeastward, endeavoring, if not certain of the longitude, to make the Eoyal Charlotte or Louisa Keef, whichever is the weathermost, by running on its parallel of latitude, and, as the currents appear to be influenced by the prevailing winds, a set in the direction in which it is blowing should be anticipated, the velocity of the current being proportionate to the force of the wind. Having made either the Eoyal Charlotte or Louisa Keefs, or pass- ing in mid-channel between them, steer to the eastward for about 100 miles, thence northeastward along the edge of the 100-fathom line, as recommended for vessels with low steam power using the Palawan Passage, as above. When working through the Palawan Passage, having conformed to the directions given for making the southwest end of Palawan, as described above, sailing vessels should, in fine weather, endeavor to make their inshore boards in the afternoon, for the sun then being astern of the vessel, the patches lying near the edge of the bank will generally be distinguished from the masthead in ample time to tack. In squally weather, also during heavy rains, these patches have been observed imparting a very distinct yellowish hue to the surface of the water. It is almost needless to remind the seaman (when the land is obscured) of the desirableness of getting soundings on the edge of the bank before dark, in order that he may have a good departure for the night; and on making his inshore board it must also be borne in mind that the probability of coming suddenly into sound- ings is great, as the approach will generally be at right angles to the edge of the bank. He should therefore be prepared to tack imme- diately on getting the first indication of soundings. Proceeding northward from the Palawan Passage, it is customary to work up the west coast of Luzon, past Manila unless bound there, to Cape Balinhasai, and thence direct for Hongkong, passing leeward of the Pratas. But if bound to any of the ports northward, much time may be saved by working up through the Balintang Channel, thence along the eastern coast of Formosa, thereby avoid- ing the labor, wear, and loss of time by the attempt to work against the monsoon along the coast of China, which even a clipper some- times fails in effecting. In working along the Luzon coast, particularly about dawn and sunset, less sea, and much lighter winds, will be experienced by hugging the coast by short boards, and at times even land breezes may very much facilitate progress; but in the attempt to render SINGAPORE TO MANILA AND HONGKONG. 385 these available, great caution should be observed, particularly between Cape Balinhasai and Cape Bojeador, as several dangers are said to exist in this locality near the shore. The first strong gust of the monsoon will be experienced on clear- ing Cape Bojeador, but this should not induce the navigator to stand further westward than is necessary to weather the cape, when less wind will at once be experienced. This generally is the case on all lee shores backed by mountains, either resulting from obstruction, reaction, or the effect probably, after sunset, of counteracting land winds. Among the groups northward of Luzon there are no dangers which are not easily avoided, and no continuous strong breezes will be experienced, at all comparable in force, or attended by high sea, similar to those which prevail between Cape Balinhasai and Hong- kong. On the contrary, good working breezes, and at times light winds prevail, enabling a well-conditioned sailing vessel to make about six degrees northing in eight days. 90045—15 25 CHAPTER XI. ISLANDS AND CHANNELS BETWEEN PALAWAN ISLAND AJSTD BORNEO— NORTHEAST COAST OF BORNEO FROM SAMPANMAN- GIO POINT TO SIBUKO RIVER. Between the southern part of Palawan and the 'northern part of Borneo are several smaller islands, of which Pandannan, Bugsuk, Bankalan, Mantangule, the large elevated island of Balabac, and others form the northern group. Southward of this group is Balabac Strait, which connects the China and Sulu or Mindoro Seas. The islands of Balambangan, Banguey, and Mallawalle, with many islets and rocks, form the southern group and lie on the south side of Balabac Strait. Pandannan Island, situated southward of Cape Buliluyan, is about 6.5 miles in length northeast and southwest and about 2.5 miles in breadth. Its southern and western shores are fronted with coral ledges, and off the southwestern extreme is a sand bank, dry at low water. The island rises a little toward its north end, and its extreme termi- nates in small abrupt heads, more especially at the northeast point, off which there is a small bushy islet ; from the islet a reef extends 5.25 miles in a northeasterly direction, parallel with the coast of Palawan, having a depth of from 18 to 20 fathoms close to its western edge. There is also an islet on the northwest side of the island, from which a reef projects, contracting the channel between it arid the south point of Palawan to three-fourths of a mile, in which there are depths of 5 and 6 fathoms, mud. Water. — Fresh water was found in a small opening on the south side of Pandannan Island' about 1.75 miles eastward of the point, but the supply was scanty and difficult to obtain, owing to the reef fronting it. Bugsuk Island, 9 miles in length north and south and 4.5 miles in breadth, lies close to the east side of Pandannan but is separated from it by a channel 700 yards wide, in which there are depths of 10 to 18 fathoms. The southern and eastern sides of Bugsuk are fronted by a reef extending in some parts nearly 2 miles from the shore; its edge, being steep to, is well defined. 386 BOWEN ISLET APPO ISLAND. 387 Bowen is a round islet off the north point of Bugsuk, having a reef, partly dry at low water, extending 3.5 miles from it in an east- erly direction. Farther northeastward are numerous shoals extend- ing toAvard Eeef Island. Patongong Islet, lying 1.75 miles westward of the northwestern point of Pandannan, is nearly half a mile in length, having a reef extending 1.75 miles to the westward and northwestward. Canimeran, lying 1.75 mites north-northeastward of Patongong, is a small sandy island with trees ; a reef extends 1,600 yards north- westward of this island. Sancalan Island, lying 3.5 miles southwestward of Pandannan, on the east side of North Balabac Strait, is 3 miles in length by 1.75 miles in breadth. The island is half encircled by a reef usually dis- cernible by the breakers arid the light-green water inside them, and which at the northwestern extreme extends nearly 1.75 miles from the shore. The reef projects a mile from the southwestern extreme of the island' and there are many isolated patches of 1 to 3 fathoms in the passage between it and Mantangule. Manta,ngule and Canabungan Islands. — Mantangule Island, lying 2.5 miles southeastward of Bancalan Island, is 4 miles in length east and -west, and 1.5 miles in breadth. Canabungan Island, 2 miles southwestward of Mantangule, is 1.75 miles in length northwest and southeast, and about a third of a mile in breadth. The islands stand on the same reef of horseshoe shape which extends over a mile westward of both of them; eastward, between the islands, are. depths of 4 to 7 fathoms, encumbered with shallow reefs. The east extreme of Canabungan has a reef extending 1.5 miles. Malinsono Island is a small and high island situated on the coral spit extending 1.5 miles off the northeast point of Mantangule Island. There are many shallow patches eastward of it. Appo, Gabung, and Byan are small islands situated on the north- ern edge of the reef, 2 miles wide, which extends nearly 6 miles southwestward of Bugsuk Island. They lie on the northern side of North Channel. Anchorage. — To the eastward of Bancalan, limited on the north and south by Pandannan and Mantangule, and on the east and southeast by Bugsuk, is an expanse of water, 8 miles in length in an cast and west, and 3.5 miles in a north and south direction, where in some parts anchorage sheltered from all winds may be found in depths of from 7 to 12 fathoms. The channels into it are, however, intricate, and almost impracticable for sailing vessels, being either close along the edges of the reef, or, where it is wide and inviting, 388 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. between small detached coral patches, for which it is impossible to give any specific directions. The best channel, if they admit of a choice, appears to be to the northward of Bancalan; between its reef and that extending from Patongong, it is 1.5 miles wide, but a 3-fathom coral patch lying in the center, just within the entrance, contracts it to half that distance. It should only be attempted when the reefs are distinctly visible from aloft. The following remarks may prove of ^•alue, but they must not be jibsolutely relied on : To enter by this channel, sight the edge of Bancalan reef, which IS always well defined, and keep along it at half a mile distant, until the western extreme of the island bears 199°, to clear a small 3-fathom knoll detached 600 yards from it; then close the reef immediately, to avoid the central patch, and keep 400 to 600 yards off, steering for Patawan Islet off Bancalan in line with the north extreme of Malinsono. Do not approach Bancalan within 600 yards. There is a passage in from the northward to the eastward of Cani- meran Island, which under some circumstances may be preferable to and probably be found less intricate than that just described. During the southwest monsoon anchorage may be obtained be- tween Bancalan and Patawan, in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the latter island bearing about east-southeast. In the northeast monsoon, the best anchorage is to the southeastward of Patawan, in 9 to 10 fathoms, taking care to pass between it and Bancalan, as the ground to the eastward is foul. The only accessible channel from the southeastward is between Mantangule and Byan Islands. This channel, through which a strong current usually sets, is three-fourths of a mile wide, and has depths of 11 and 12 fathoms in it, with reefs extending to the south- ward from either side of the entrance. Worth Balabac Strait, formed on the northeast by Bancalan, Mantangule, and Canabungan Islands, described above, and on the southwest by Secam, Eamos, and Candaraman Islands, is 11 miles in length and about 2 miles in breadth at its narrowest part, abreast Canabungan Island, with from 19 to 50 fathoms water throughout. There is generally a strong stream in the narrow part of the strait, depending on the monsoon. Islands on southwest side. — Secam is a low and narrow island about 1 mile in length in a west-northwest and opposite direction, with trees about 100 feet high. It is situated on the west side of the entrance of North Balabac Strait and separated from Cape Disaster by Bate Channel, 1.75 miles wide, with depths of 24 to 50 fathoms in the fairway and with deep water close to the reef surrounding the EAMOS ISL-\ND NOETH BALABAC STRAIT. 389 island. This i^eef extends 1.5 miles northwestward from the western extreme of the island, with patches of coral on it, which only cover at high water. Depths of 4 to 9 fathoms extend about a mile westward and north- ward of the west end of the reef. Anchorage, tolerably sheltered from southwest winds, may be obtained on the north side of Secam Island in 19 to 20 fathoms water, sand, and coral, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. With the eastern extreme of the island bearing south, the reef to the west- ward affording protection from the swell. In bad weather a second anchor should be let go in time, as the squalls, which often succeed each other rapidly, are sometimes most violent, and, once off the bank in deep water, a sailing vessel would be awkwardly situated, as there is no other anchorage for which she could run. Ramos Island, the northern point of which is Cape Disaster, is about 4 miles in extent; it lies 2.5 miles southward of Secam and northward of Balabac Island. Cliff Hill, 374 feet high, is near the southern shore of the island, 2.5 miles southward of Cape Disaster. From Port Ciego to Cape Disaster, the north extreme of Ramos Island and round eastward, the coast is low, with two small cliffy hills a little inland. The coast reef dries nearly a mile off at low water. Northwest Shoal lies from 2 to 3.5 miles westward of Ramos Island, and has as little as If fathoms over it in places. Candaraman Island, situated on a reef very steep -to, nearly 2 miles eastward of the north extreme of Balabac Island, is low and flat, 1.25 miles in length north and south and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. It is separated from Balabac Island and from Caxisigan Island, lying off the inlet of Candaraman, by a channel rather more than half a mile wide, with depths of 30 to 44 fathoms. A reef extends two-thirds of a mile northward of Caxisigan Island, and there are patches of 1^ to 3 fathoms for nearly a mile beyond it. There is also a patch of 4 fathoms 400 yards southeast of its south extreme. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water at Secam Island, full aijd change, at llh. 24m. ; springs rise 4^ feet. The flood stream sets to the eastward and the ebb to the westward ; maximum velocity ob- served, 2^ knots. Directions for North Balabac Strait. — If coming from the southward or westward, do not approach Balabac Island nearer than 12 miles until Balabac Peak bears to the southward of 120° or until Cliff Hill, on Ramos Island, bears 92°, when Secam Island may be steered for on a 70° bearing. 390 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. If entering by Bate Channel, keep a little toward Secam Island to avoid the edge of the reef which extends about three-fourths of a mile from Cape Disaster, but on which the sea generally breaks. From Secam Island shape course to pass midway between Candara- man and Canabungan, the two low islands on either side of the strait. If proceeding to the eastward, pass within 1.5 miles of the south end of Canabungan; and if bound to the southward, to Calandorang Bay, etc., steei' to pass the same distance eastward of Candaraman, by which means the reported shoal charted from 2.5 to 3 miles from those islands will be avoided. If entering northward of Secam Island, steer to pass midway be- tween it and Bancalan Island on about a 137° course, avoiding the reef which stretches northwestward of Secam and which is usually visible; thence in the fairway between Canabungan and Candara- man Islands, as before. Balabac Island — General remarks — Aspect. — Balabac, lying 17 miles south-scuthwestward of the southwest extremity of Palawan Island and about 27 miles northward of Balambangan, is neaiiy 17 miles in length, north and south, 9 miles in breadth, and is thickly wooded. On the northern part of the island are several detached hills, the highest being ele\ated 750 feet. On the southern half of the island are several ranges of high hills exhibiting great variety of outline ; only a few, however, are of sufficient importance to require description. Steepfall Kange, about 2 miles from Cape Melville, the south point of the island, is composed of several hills in a semicircu- lar form, and being nearly of the same elevation throughout, 850 feet, presents a table-topped appearance, whence the sides fall in a precipitous manner, hence the name. Xorthward of Steepfall other ranges varying in height from 1,200 to 1,300 feet extend to Dalawan Bay; Balabac Peak, situated 2 miles northwestward of Dalawan Bay, has the greatest elevation on the island, 1,890 feet. To the northward other ranges extend as far as Caladorang Bay. This island belongs to the United States. Port Ciego, or Blind Harbor, lies in the opening, nearly 2 miles wide, between Balabac and Ramos Islands. It is, however, blocked with coral, except near the points at the entrance, ^li^io Ukio id a narrow channel between the reefs, with 9 and 10 fathoms wafer. Its eastern entrance is ("andaraman Inlet, ^^hich separr.tes Balabac and Eamos Islands, with depths of from 5 to 12 fathoms, but almost blocked by reefs. We have no information other than the chart shows. Cape Melville, the south extreme of Balabac, is fronted by a reef to the distance of half a mile, and with the point to the westward has detached patches extending off to the distance of 1.25 miles. BALABAC STRAIT, 391 Light. — From a yellow octagonal masonry tower, with white lan- tern, 90 feet in height, with dwelling detached, situated 1.5 miles northwestward of Cape Melville, is exhibited at an elevation of 296 feet above high water a flashing white light visible 24 miles in clear weather. For arc of visibility see Light list and charts. West coast — Dangers. — The west coast of Balabac is fronted by numerous reefs which extend several miles off. The most important are Ada Eeef , Balabac Great Reefs, and Gnat Eeef , which dry and extend from 2 to 4 miles offshore, while seaward of them are the Western Shoals and the Southwestern Banks, with depths of 2^ to 4 fathoms and possibly less, from 4 to 6.75 miles offshore. The chart will afford better information than a written description. Directions. — ^When standing toward the dangers off-lying the west coast of Balabac in the afternoon, when the sun Avill be astern, the outer shoals and also the reefs will generally be seen in sufficient time to avoid them; but if the sun be ahead the outer shoals are difficult to make out until close to them. The soundings are so variable and uncertain under depths of 30 fathoms as to afford little assistance. A good lookout is therefore of the first importance. At night the soundings coupled with bearings of the light must be carefully at- tended to if near these dangers, and vessels should not approach to a less depth than 40 fathoms off the southwest and west parts of the island nor get within 50 fathoms off the northwest part. Inshore Channel. — There is said to be a channel between Balabac Great Eeefs and the island, 200 yards wide in its narrowest part, and with not less than 4^ fathoms. There are many isolated dangers in it and apparently no reason for any stranger attempting it. West Point shows out distinctly Avhen viewed from the northwest and southwestward, and is useful for bearings when nearing the' shoals. East coast. — The east coast of Balabac Island is tolerably bold. with deep water close to it in most places. Calandorang Bay, or Puerto del Principe Alfonso, situated 5 mils southward of Candaraman Inlet, is over half a mile wide be- tween Sarmiento and Espina Points, with. depths of 5 to 20 fathoms. It is shallow for nearly a mile from its head and 800 yards seaward of the town, with isolated patches between the 3 and 5 fathoms con- tour lines. Off the town are depths of 1^ to 2 fathoms, according to the distance. The south point of the entrance is formed by a hill 105 feet high named Almirante Gil; the north point is mangrove, with hills a short distance inside; coral reef with shallow water beyond extends about 200 yards off both points, and for a greater distance off the points within on the northern shore, which is all mangrove. 392 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Light. — A fixed white light is exhibited from a white frame tower 33 feet high on Espina Point, at an elevation of 133 feet above the sea and visible 12 miles in clear weather. Settlement. — ^The Spanish Government in 1858 erected a military station here named Balabac, on the south shore, for the purpose of developing the trade of Palawan and other neighboring islands. Balabac has been opened as a temporary port of entry. Climate. — The dry season is from November to April and the wet season from May to October. The average temperature from one year's observation was 79° F. Supplies. — Within Espina Point is a coal store and small jetty. Water is procurable at a little stream near the coal pier, but no sup- plies can be obtained. There is a landing pier at the town. Telephone. — ^A telephone has been installed between the custom- house and Cape Melville, at the southern end of the island, from which notice of vessels entering Philippine waters from Borneo or going up the west coast of the island can be transmitted. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Calandorang Bay at llh. ; springs rise 6 feet. Directions — ^Anchorage.^ — ^A stean\ vessel will find no difficulty in entering Calandorang Bay, guided by the plan. Approach mid- way between the entrance points, and when the lighthouse bears 160° steer for the bluff westward of the town, bearing 233°, proceeding slowly, as the depths decrease quicldy within the 10-fathom line. Anchor when the lighthouse bears 109° in about 8 fathoms. Small vessels can go farther in on the line of bearing of the bluff. The anchorage is good, with a bottom of mud, and perfectly secure in the southwest monsoon season. In the opposite season the monsoon occasionally blows into the bay with force, raising a nasty chop of a sea, so that vessels should anchor nearer the north shore in that period. A sailing vessel from the southward should make for Dalawan Bay if the wind be likely to fail, and wait a more favorable opportunity for entering Calandorang Bay, for, on account of the deep water, which is unsuitable for anchoring, if the wind should fail when within a mile or so of the port, the vessel would be swept toward the numerous dangers to the northward, there being a current setting in that direction during the southwest monsoon. The Caimanes Estero, which discharges into the western part of the bay, is reported to offer perfectly protected anchorage for small vessels 90 or 100 feet in length, drawing 7 to 9 feet. The channel is marked at present by stakes, and a vessel of 8 feet draft can enter at high water. DALAWAN BAY CLAEENDON BAY. 393 Dalawan Bay, situated 6 miles southward of Calandorang Bay, is convenient for wooding and watering, has depths of from 2 to 15 fathoms, and affords good shelter during the southwest monsoon. Dalawan Bay will be readily recognized by the low land extend- ing in a west-northwest direction from the beach across the island, separating the high land about Balabac Peak from Transept Hill, a smooth table-topped hill 1,319 feet in height, on the south side of the bay. The bay is about a mile wide between the entrance points, and about three-fourths of a mile deep in a westerly direction, with anchorage in depths of 7 to 12 fathoms, mud, shoaling gradually to the sandy beach at its head. The shores of the bay are densely wooded, the entrance points on either side being fronted with man- grove. The best anchorage is about the center of the bay in 9 fathoms, mud, nearly half a mile from the beach. Reefs, dry at low water, project from both points at the entrance, contracting the channel to a little less than 1,400 j'ards; that on the northern side has a rock at its extremity named Buoy Rock, lying south 400 yards from the shore, and which, from being gen- erally uncovered, forms an excellent guide to enter the bay. The spit on the south side dries 300 yards from the shore, but a rocky spit extends 700 yards beyond this in an east-northeast direction, having in some parts only 3 feet water, with 5 and 7 fathoms close to the edge. A reef of rocks 200 yards in extent, awash at low water springs, lies 400 yards eastward of the entrance of the river, with 4 fathoms, mud, near its outer edge. A stream is situated in the southwestern corner of the bay north- ward of the White Rock; its channel is constantly shifting in con- sequence of freshets, but boats can enter near high Avater. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Dalawan Bay at llh. ; springs rise 5 feet. Supplies. — -About a quarter of a mile northwestward from White Rock is a rivulet of good water; in the drj' season the water must be obtained some distance up to be good. It is navigable for boats on ordinary occasions about a mile, where there are a few houses and some cultivated ground, where possibly goats, fowls, yams, etc., are obtainable. In the Philippine Islands Sailing Directions these remarks apply to a stream situated a quarter of a mile southeastward from White Rock. Clarendon Bay, situated three-quarters of a mile northeast of Cape Melville, is about 1,600 yards in length in a northwesterly direction, and half a mile in breadth, with depths of 4 to 6 fathoms^ 394 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNEO. mud. From "West Point, the southern entrance point, the reef extends off a very sliort distance, but from the northern entrance point it projects more than 400 yards, reducing the navigable channel to barely 150 yards. Clarendon Bay is of no commercial nnportance, and is used only by the lighthouse tender when com- municating with Cape Melville Lighthouse. Buoys. — A red nun buoy, No. 2, marks the edge of the spit on northeast side entering, and a black can buoy, No. 1, the edge of the western shore reef, 700 yards within West Point. Directions. — Approach the entrance to Clarendon Bay on a 231° course, and pass close to the red buoy, leaving it on the starboard hand to avoid the reef and shoal extending off West Point, having passed the buoy haul about a point to the northward, and anchor off the black buoy in from 4r| to 5 fathoms, mud. The reef at the head of the bay should not be approached within 400 yards, as shoals are reported to lie southeastward of it, carrying about 9 feet of water. Off-lying dangers — Wasubata Island and Reef. — Nasubata Island, situated about 4.5 miles eastward of the entrance to Calan- dorang Bay, is a low cleft rock of sandstone formation, covered with trees, the tops of which are elevated 90 feet above the sea. It lies from 400 to 600 yards within the northern edge of Nasubata Reef, which is 2 miles in length, dry at low water, and steep-to. B/Oughton Eeef lies to the eastward of Nasubata Reef, separated by a channel 1.25 miles in breadth with depths of nearly 100 fathoms near the center. The reef is 2.5 miles in length in a northeast and southwesterlj' direction by about a mile in breadth. On the north- west side is a sand cay, covered with bushes, with Balabac Peak bearing 241°, distant nearly 11 miles. The reef is steep-to, except on its northeast side, where shallow water extends from 400 to 600 yards, and three-quarters of a mile northward of the east point is a patch of 2J fathoms. North Channel is 4.5 miles wide between Nasubata and Cana- bungan Island Reefs, and 6 miles wide between Roughton Reef and the reefs extending 1.25 miles from Byan and Gabung Islands. In the fairway there are depths exceeding 100 fathoms in places. Caution. — The only difficulty likely to arise in the naviga,tion of this channel will be caused by the tidal stream when combined with the current, which runs with considerable velocity during the strength of the monsoons, requiring a strong favorable breeze to enable sailing vessels to make headway against it. But no danger is likely to occur from this cause if they keep northward of the deep water, where there is anchorage. A shoal, 50 to 80 feet in extent, with 5 fathoms over it, and steep-to, was reported by the master of the German vessel /. W. NACUBATA. CHANNEL LUMBUCAN ISLAND. 395 Gilclemeister, 1885, to lie with Canabungan Island bearing 340° distant about 2.5 miles. The shoal is charted where there are depths of 34 to 93 fathoms around, and in the fairway both of North Channel and North Balabac Strait. Nacubata Channel is 4.75 miles wide between Eoughton Eeef and Comiran Danger Bank, T\ith depths of above 100 fathoms in the fairway. It is only necessary when navigating this channel to guard against the effects of the tidal stream, which, when combined with the current, sweeps through it in the direction of North Balabac Strait with considerable velocity at times. Comiran Danger Bank, 2.75 miles in length, east-northeast and west-southwest, and a mile in breadth, includes within its. limits Comiran Island and two shoals. Comiran Island, 80 feet high, situated 152°, 7.25 miles from Nasubata Island, and about 8 miles from the east coast of Balabac Island, is small, wooded, and surrounded by a reef extending from 200 to 400 yards from the shore. Turtles at times resort here in great numbers. Shoals. — A shoal, nearly half a mile in extent, with 2 to 3 fathoms water, lies southwestward of Comiran, its outer edge being distant nearly 1.25 miles; and another shoal, about the same size, having 2| to 3 fathoms, lies a little farther in an easterly direction. Both are fairly steep-to. A bank, about a mile in extent, with general depths of 6 to 8 fathoms, and a patch of 4f fathoms on its south side, lies midway between Comiran Island and the east end of Lumbucan Island. There is also a small patch of 6 fathoms in the channel northeastward of it. Comiran Channel is over 3 miles wide between the dangers sur- rounding Comiran Danger Bank and Lumbucan, with depths of 15 to 25 fathoms in the fairway on either side of the bank men- tioned above. It is not recommended, as there are other and better channels, though there seems no difficulty in navigating it. Cape Melville Lighthouse bearing 252° apparently leads through. Lumbucan Island, about 100 feet high, is about three-quarters of a mile in length and wooded ; it is surrounded by a reef, and shallow water under a depth of 3 fathoms extends 1.7 miles southwestward and over a mile northeastward and eastward from the island. A sand cay is on the reef at about 800 yards westward of the island. Dangers. — At 2 to 3.5 miles northeastward of Lumbucan, on the same bank, are the Northeast Shoals, with depths of If to 3 fathoms. At 2 miles eastward of the island are patches of 3^ to 5 fathoms, and 1 mile southward is a shoal with If to 4 fathoms, loiown as South Shoal. The island and the dangers all stand on Lumbucan Danger Bank. 396 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. OfE-lying danger. — Viola Reef, a coral patch with a depth of 4 feet at low-water spring tides, on which the Spanish vessel of that name struck and remained for several hours, is reported as lying about 25 miles eastward of Lumbucan Danger Bank, in latitude 7° 50' north, longitude 117° 52' tast- This locality was searched by the British ship Nassau in 1872, when no indication of shoal water was found. A danger, position doubtful, is charted 4 miles farther north. This was not seen by the United States ship General Alava, November, 1901, on that vessel passing 1.25 miles from its given position. Balabac Strait— General remarks. — Balabac Strait, leading from the China Sea into the Mindoro or Sulu Sea, lies between Balabac Island on the north and Balambangan and Bangney Islands on the south. The greater part of this strait is occupied by numerous coral dan- gers divided into groups, each group being distinguished by a special denomination — such as Great Dan'ger Bank, Mangsee Danger Bank, etc. This arrangement distinctly defines the limits of the various channels, of which there are eight, between the dangers. The high peak of Balabac Island is the most conspicuous object in the vicinity of the strait, and is visible from all parts of it. Ban- guey and Balabac Peaks lie 356° and 176° from each other, 38.25 miles apart, and as most of the dangers and channels are to the east- ward of that line, these peaks are of the first importance for deter- mining the position of vessels when navigating this strait, especially for those bound eastward. Tidal streams. — The flood stream sets to the eastward and the ebb to the westward. The strength of the stream or of the current de- pends greatly on the prevailing winds. The greatest velocity ob- served was 2^ knots. In the months of October and November, after a succession of westerly winds, the current was found to set constantly to the east- ward, slackening only on the ebb tide, while in July, after a continu- ance of unusually fine weather with light east and southeast winds, it set with the same strength, viz, from three-quarters to 2| knots in the opposite direction. The mean velocity observed for 13 consecu- tive hours was If knots. Lumbucan Channel. — Lumbucan Channel, lying between Lum- bucan Danger Bank on the north and Ellis Shoal and Simanahan Eeef on the south, is from 4 to 5 miles wide, with depths of 13 to 28 fathoms, and apparently free from danger. A bank about three-quarters of a mile in length east and west and with depths of 7^ to 10 fathoms over it is situated 2.75 miles to the southward of Lumbucan Island ; from its center the eastern extreme ELLIS SHOAL SAND CAY. 397 of Lumbucan bears 24°, distant 3 miles, and Cape Melville 279°. Dourly patches divide the channel at its eastern end, but the ..least known depth over them is 6 fathoms, and they are steep-to. ■» Directions.— If bound to the northeastward, Lumbucan is a good channel to use, on account of its width, and to insure its safe naviga- tion it will be only necessary to pass about 3.5 miles southward of Lumbucan Island; bearings of Cape Melville Lighthouse, Balabac Peak, and Lumbucan will afford the means of fixing the vessel's position. Ellis Shoal, situated 6.25 miles south-southwestward of Lumbucan Island and in the western approach to Lumbucan and Simanahan Channels is 2.5 miles in length and half a mile in breadth, and is composed of coral ; it has a least depth of 2f fathoms near its center, from which Balabac Peak bears 330°, distant 14 miles. Sima^nahaii Reef, situated 7.25 miles 132° from the east end of Lumbucan Island, is situated near the center of a coral bank 5 miles in length by three-quarters of a mile in breadth. The reef, dry at low water to the extent of about 1.25 miles, has a sand bank near its center which is just below the surface at high water; this serves, even when covered, from the light color of the water over it to point out the position of the reef from some distance. The shallow part of the bank under a depth of 3 fathoms encompassing the reef is about 3 miles in extent. Simanahan Channel, between Simanahan Reef and Great Dan- ger Bank, is apparently free from danger with depths of 23 to 30 fathoms ; all that is necessary for its safe navigation is to pass about three-quarters of a mile to the southward of the reef on an east or west course, avoiding Ellis Shoal, but occasion can seldom arise to render this a convenient channel by which to proceed. Great Danger Bank comprises many reefs, among which no vessel should venture. It is 14 miles in length in a west-northwest and oppositS direction and 7.5 miles in breadth at its northwest end, gradually decreasing toward its southeast extreme. On the southeast reef is a sand cay. Worth. Patches, two in number, lie near the north edge of the bank, with 3^ fathoms least water. Northwest Shoals, situated at the northwest extreme of the bank, occupy a space 4.5 miles in length, with depths of 1^ to 3 fathoms. Middle Shoals are a cluster of coral patches forming the middle of Great Danger Bank ; they cover a space of about 6 miles east and west, with as little as 2 fathoms in two or more places. Sand Cay, the only conspicuous object marking any part of the bank, stands at the southern side of it about 4 miles westward of the southeast extreme. This cay is situated near the center of a narrow 398 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNEO. coral reef 3 miles in length, from each end of which shallow water (under 3 fathoms) extends about half a mile, with patches of 3 to 5 fathoms beyond, and in a northerly direction also, nearly as far as the Middle Shoals. Southeast Shoals comprise several coral patches situated near the southeast extreme of the bank, extending over a space about 2 miles in length, with depths of If to U fathoms, the shallowest being 100° distance 3 miles from the sand cay. Off-lying shoal — Borneo Bank. — In 1907 the steamer Borneo, while on a voyage from Sandakan to Hongkong, passed over a patch of discolored water, the coral bottom being plainly visible. The ship was stopped and depths of from 7 to 15 fathoms were obtained. It is situated about 13 miles east-northeastward from the southeast shoals of Great Danger Bank in the eastern approach to Balabac Strait in approximately latitude 7° 40' north, longitude 117° 38' east. This shoal was not examined ; there may therefore be less water over it. Middle Channel, separating Great Danger Bank from Mangsee Danger Bank, is a mile wide at its narrowest part, with depths of 16 to 34 fathoms in the fairway. Ray Bank, of sand and coral, is a mile in length, half a mile in breadth, and steep-to, with a least known depth of 4 fathoms near its center ; it lies on the north side of the approach to Middle Channel and 6 miles westward of the northwest shoals on Great Danger Bank, with Balabac Peak bearing 341°, distance 16.25 miles from the 4- fathom spot. Directions.^ — Middle Channel lies out of the ordinary route of vessels, but it may be used if necessary. Coming from the south- westward, Balabac Peak should not be brought westward of 339° until Salingsingan Island on Mangsee Danger Bank bears 109° to clear Loxdale Shoal. Steer for Salingsingan Island, bearing 115° until about b miles from it, when a 103° course will lead a mile north- ward of that island and about 1.5 miles southward of the sand cay on Great Danger Bank. Bearings of the Mangsee Islands and of the sand cay will keep a vessel in the fairway. Mangsee Danger Bank, situated southward of Great Danger Bank, from which it is separated by Middle Channel, includes within its limits the Mangsee and Salingsingan Islands, with the extensive dangers adjacent; also Loxdale, Jessie, and many smaller shoals. This bank is 10 miles in length east and west, and 4 miles in breadth at the eastern end, tapering to the opposite extreme. Loxdale Shoal, at the west end of the bank, is formed of coral, nearly 1.75 miles in length, and from 600 yards to 0.5 mile in breadth, with 2J to 3 fathoms water, and' fairly steep-to. From the west end SALINGSINGAiT ISLAND MANGSEE GREAT EEEP. 399 of this danger Balabac Peak bears 336°, ahd Salingsingan 95°, dis- tant 5 miles. Salingsingan Island, situated 5 miles 253° of sand cay on Great Danger Bank, is composed of coral and sand covered with trees; it is rather more than half a mile in length east-southeast and west- northwest, and 200 yards in breadth. Shoals nearly awash in parts stretch oil three-quarters of a mile eastward, and 1.75 miles west- ward, from the island, the breadth of the latter being nearly a mile. Jessie Shoal, with 6 feet least water, lying 2.5 miles 115° from Salingsingan Island, is 1.5 miles in length and half a mile in breadth. This danger is situated at the east part of the bank, and shallow patches outline its extremes. North. Mangsee Island, situated 2 miles southward of Saling- singan Island, is covered with trees, which rise to an apex near the center 130 feet above high water. The island is three-quarters of a mile in length, and from its east end reefs and shoals extend — ^be- yond those projecting from South Mangsee — for a distance of 2.25 miles, and some patches of 4 to 7 fathoms three-quarters of a mile farther in an easterly direction; from the west end a line of reefs extends in a west-northwest direction to the distance of 3.5 miles. South Mangsee Island, covered with trees, is round shaped, about half a mile in diameter, and stands upon a reef which extends from it one mile eastward, 1,200 yards westward, and to a less dis- tance in other directions. It lies about 1,200 yards southeastward of North Mangsee Island. Mangsee Channel, separating Mangsee Great Eeef from Mangsee Danger Bank, is 1 mile wide at its narrowest part, Avhere the depths are irregular ; it is deep throughout, having from 18 to 33 fathoms in the fairway. The reefs on the north side of this channel are steep-to ; Mangsee Great Eeef forming the south side is less so, and from the northern side of the east point of the reef shoal water extends in the direction of South Mangsee Island to the distance of half a mile. Directions. — Navigators will rarely have occasion to use this chan- nel, but in case of necessity the following directions may be of assist- ance; with a proper lookout no difficulty will be found in passing safely through. Coming from the westward, and having sighted the Mangsee Islands, bring the center of South Mangsee Island to bear 103° and steer for it ; when the west end of North Mangsee bears 70° steer 137°, passing midway between the islands and Great Eeef. Dangers on northern side of Main Channel.— Mangsee Great Reef lies southwestward of Mangsee Danger Bank, separated from it by Mangsee Channel, and its southern edge is situated 4.5 miles northward of North Guhuan. The reef is 5 miles in length in an east and west direction by 2.75 miles in breadth, and is steep-to on 400 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. its southern side. It is nearly everywhere covered at high water, but a sand cay upon the eastern part is generally visible from aloft when near the edge. At low water the reef presents a vast expanse of coral and sand, with lagoons here and there. From the west end of the reef shallow water, under 10 fathoms, extends about 2 miles in a west-southwest direction, with irregular depths; the least known is 4 fathoms, but the locality should be avoided. Banguey Peak bearing southward of 205°, leads westward of it. For North and South Mangsee Islands, see above. The main channel through Balabac Strait is limited to the north- ward hj Mangsee Great Keef, the southern part of which is 1.5 miles distant from the edge of the bank on the Banguey side, and' to the southward by the danger line encompassing the reefs and shoals Ijdng off the north and northeast coasts of Banguey Island. The depths in the channel are not regular, varying from 13 to 22 fathoms, the deepest water being rather nearer the reef than the middle of the channel. For directions, see below. Balambangan and Banguey Islands and the shoals bordering the north and east sides of Banguej^, all of which lie on the southern side of Main Channel, will now be described. Balambang'an Island — General remarks. — This island, situ- ated 27 miles southward of Balabac Island and 11.5 miles north- eastward from the north extreme of Borneo, is of irregular shape, 13.25 miles in length in a northeast and southwest direction, with an extreme breadth of about 4 miles. The composition of the ele- vations of Balambangan Island varies between limestone, basalt, trap, and sandstone. All the rocks exhibit traces of violent con- vulsion. The northern portion of the island is flat, but thickly covered with high trees. The southern portion of this island presents a- range of hills, the highest being 440 feet ; there are also other elevations, one of which. Thumb Peak, 314 feet high, near the southwest extreme of the island, is conspicuous; these elevations are terminated on the coast- line by abrupt cliffs. On the east side of Balambangan Island are two inlets laiown as North and South Harbors, both affording good drinking water. Fuel may be obtained at any part of this island, and is similar in quality to the woods of Borneo grown on hard soil. Balambangan Island is a British possession. Dangers. — Reefs and shoals extend more than three-quarters of a mile from Siagut Point, and a 3-fathom patch lies north-northwest, nearly 1.25 miles from it; vessels should therefore, when rounding Siagut Point, give it a berth of 2 miles, or not come into less than 9 fathoms water. SIAGUT SHOAL NORTH CHAXNEL. 401 Siagut Shoal, lying 2 miles westward from Siagut Point, the north extreme of Balambangan Island, is a detached coral bank 1.5 miles in length, with one head awash at low water and with less than 6 feet water over other parts of it. The large bay southwestward of Siagut Point has less than 3 fathoms water extending nearly 1.5 miles from the shore, and south- Mard of Buttnn Point the reef extends off nearly three-quarters of a mile; by keeping in depths- of not less than 14 fathoms all these dangers will be avoided. Kalutan Point, the south extreme of Balambangan Island, is fronted by several islets and rocks extending three-quarters of a mile in a southeasterly direction. At half a mile eastward of these is a coral patch with 3 fathoms water, with the point bearing 292°, distant 1 mile. Kalutan Island. — About three-quarters of a mile northwest of Kalutan Point and half a mile from the shore is the small round island of Kalutan, 278 feet high, having a reef projecting nearly half a mile from its west side. East Coast. — The whole of the east coast of Balambangan is fronted by a coral reef outside which are detached dry patches here and there, but the 3-fathom edge embracing these is, for the most part, distant half a mile from the shore. At 1.5 miles southeastward of Siagut Point, and separated from the shore reef by a narrow passage, lies a coral shoal more than half a mile in diameter, having less than 6 feet water over some parts of it. Eastward of this danger, in the channel between it and the reef surrounding Tiga Islet, is a shoal of 3^ fathoms and another of 2^ fathoms. Caution is therefore necessarj^ when passing through that channel. The shoals along the southeast coast are not easily discovered unless the sun be shining behind the observer. Southward of Sapa- loak Point the shore reef extends to the distance of 1.5 miles. North Harbor, or Luk Barabok Barabok, offers greater conven- ience for anchorage than the South Harbor, and is of much easier iipiaroaeh, the shoals being better defined. There are from 10 to 13 fathoms in the entrance, and from 7 to 11 fathoms in the anchorage within. It is not advisnble to enter this harbor, however, unless the reefs are visible from aloft. Directions.— From the southwestward, keep Kalutan Point bear- ing westward of 261°. to pass southward of Half Channel Patch lying 2 miles 12G° from Saparoak Point, which has only 3 feet water and breaks at times. When Manyangit Point, on Banguey Island, bears 25° steer for it until Battang Point bears about 322°; then steer to pass between the latter point and the reef awash nearly 90045—15 26 402 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENEO. a mile 216°- of it, looking out to avoid a l^-fathom knoll lying half a mile from the shore, just within Battang Point. A reef awash lies about 700 yards northwest of this knoll. Anchorage may be obtained in a depth of 10 fathoms, with the center of the reef awash last mentioned in line with Battang Point, and Saparoak Point bearing 205°. The head of the harbor is known as Lung Bay, and has depths of 5 to 7 fathoms between the reefs friiiging its shores. Water. — ^It was on the southern point of ISTorth Harbor that the English establishment (abandoned in 1803) was situated. Two streams flow into the sea, one on each side of the ruins. The west- ernmost will, it is stated, even in the dry season, furnish about 15 tons of water during the day. South Harbor, situated on the east side of the south extreme of Balambangan, is fronted by isolated shoals to the distance of about 2 miles with reefs on either side. The channel abreast Raha, the south point of entrance, is a quarter of a mile wide between the reefs, with a depth of 7 fathoms. Directions. — To enter this harbor requires close attention to the following directions, as well as the lead and look-out, and it is not advisable to enter unless the reefs are visible from aloft. From the southwestward, having given Kalutan Point a berth of at least a mile, haul nearer the shore, bringing Cone Islet, the outer islet off Kalutan, to bear 252° well open of the islets off Observatory Point, which leads southward of the reefs off Raha Point. "When Raha Point bears 320°. haul up north, passing between Raha Reef (the edge of which will be seen from aloft and probably marked by breakers), and the detached reefs to the eastward, looking out to avoid the 6-foot rocky patch lying 500 yards eastward of Raha Reef ; round Raha Reef at a prudent distance and haul in about 261° for the anchorage in a depth of 7 fathoms, in the fairway off the water- ing place, about 350 yards from the southern shore. Water. — Fresh water will be found on the south shore, about a quarter of a mile within Raha Point. The reef prevents access until half flood. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in South Harbor at lOh. Om. ; springs rise 7 feet. Banguey West Channel separates Balambangan and Banguey Islands, and has a least breadth of 2.25 miles between Battang and Manyangit Points. The southern portion is deep, with Half Channel Patch previously referred to nearly in the fairway, but with a channel 2.5 miles wide eastward of it. TIGA ISLET SAMAKANG POINT. 403 The nortliern entrance, between Siagut and Samarang Points, about 8.75 miles apart, is obstructed by Tiga Islet and its reef, and by Eifleman Rock and other patches. The channel between Rifle- man Rock and Tiga is navigable, and has depths of 6 to 7 fathoms in its fairway, but it would not be safe to' reckon on more than 5 fathoms unless the channel were thoroughly buoyed. The rock is buoyed, and there is a beacon marking the southeastern edge of Tiga Islet Reefs, but these marks must not be depended on. The channel along the Banguey shore seems also good if buoyed. The channel westward of Tiga is narrower and more obstructed. They should only be navigated when the dangers are discernible. Dangers. — Tiga Islet, situated in the northern entrance of Ban- guey West Channel, is low and covered with trees; it is a little over half a mile in length, less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, and is surrounded by reefs fairly steep-to, extending about a mile in a northerly and southeasterly and about three-quarters of a mile in other directions. Beacon. — The southeast extremity of the reef is marked by a black iron tripod beacon, situated 131°, distant about 1 mile from the south point of Tiga Islet. The shoal westward of Tiga Islet, and southeastward of Siagut Point, has been referred to. Patches of 2^ and 3^ fathoms lie be- tween that shoal and Tiga Islet Reef, in the fairway. Kifleman Keck, a small coral patch with 1| fathoms water over it, and 5 fathoms close-to, lies in the fairway between Tiga Islet Reef and the Banguey coast dangers, with the southwest end of Tiga Islet bearing 280°, distant 2 miles. "Westward of the rock there are depths of 6 and 7 fathoms in the fairway. Buoy. — A black buoy surmounted by a white ball has been placed on Rifleman Rock by the B. N. Borneo Co., but it is not to be de- pended on. About midway between Rifleman Rock and the northwest coast of Banguey are patches of 2J and 3 fathoms, on a bank about 2.5 miles in extent northeast and southwest within the 5-fathom limit, and with a depth of 6 to 7 fathoms in the channel between them and the shore. Labua,n B points and the sides of tlae western bay are fringed with coral extending 200 to 400 yards from the shore, but the head of it is a coral and sand beach; vessels may anchor in the entrance of the bay in 4 fathoms. The eastern bay. with the exception of a narrow boat passage, is blocked with coral, upon the outer part of whicli is a small islet. Dangers on southern side. — The principal islands and dangers fronting the north and east coasts of Banguey, and bordering the south side of the Main Channel, are as follows: The limits of these dangers, and the greater part of the reefs and shoals in the vicinity of Balabac Strait, are depicted on the chart by a pecked line, within which vessels should not pass. North Guhuan Islet is situated on a I'eef three-quarters of a mile in extent, nearly 1 mile off the north point of Banguey, and 5 miles eastward of Samarang Point; there are no offshore clangers westward of it. Fi'om North Guhuan a bank with less than 3 fathoms extends eastward parallel to the shore for about 4 miles, on which are two sand cays and reefs dry at low water. Louisa Shoal, composed of coral, with li fathoms water, is nearly a mile in length; from its north extreme North Guhuan bears 195", distant about 1.5 miles, At about 1.25 miles northward of Louisa Shoal are two patches of 5 fathoms. Clearing mark. — ilanj'angit Point, well open of Samarang Point, leads northward of Louisa Shoal. Maggie Reef, situated about 3 miles eastward of Louisa Shoal, is about 1 mile in length, Avith a coral patch that dries, 500 yards in extent on its northern side, and many rocks just below water. At about half a mile northward of a line joining the northern edges of Louisa Shoal and Alaggie Reef are two 31-fathom patches. Black Watch Rock, on which the British bark Black Watch is reported to have struck, in 1878, lies just within the danger line depicted on the chart. 2 miles north of Maggie Reef. From the position of this rock, as given by the master of the Black Watch, North Mangsee Island is well open westward of South Mang- see Island, bearing 10"^, and the cay on Banguey Outer Northeast Reefs, 127°. At half a mile eastward of the assigned position of the rock the depth is 5^ fathoms. From the irregulai'ti,y of the soundings near this suspected locality it is possible that coral heads may exist other than those shown on the chart. East Guhuan Islet, about a quarter of a mile in extent, stands on the west side of a coral reef, 1.5 miles in length, the northern part of which dries. About a mile north-northwestward of East Guhuan Islet lies a 1^-fathom patch. 406 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Banguey Outer Northeast Reefs are a cluster of reefs separated from Maggie Eeef and p]ast Guhuan Islet by a channel, 1 mile wide, with depths of 7 to 9 fathoms. These reefs are 3.5 miles in length in a, northwest and southeast direction, and a little over 1 mile in breadth, with a large central portion dry at low water. Upon the northwest end of the- reefs is a sand cay, which is useful for pointing out the locality of these dangers, which lie 6 miles from the shore. Close to the edges of these I'eefs there are depths of 6 to 9 fathoms. The west extreme of North Mangsee Island, in line with the west extreme of South Mangsee 327°, or the latter to the westward of that bearing, ]eads eastward of these reefs. Off -lying' shoals. — A shoal with a depth of about 2 fathoms over it is situated in the eastern' approach to Balabac Strait, 12.75 miles eastward from East Guhuan Islet, or in approximately latitude 7° 22' north, longitude 117° 32' east. This neighborhood has not been completely examined. A patch with a depth of 4 fathoms over it is situated 18.5 miles 69° from the summit of Latoan Island. Kestrel Eiock. — The British ship Kestrel passed over a patch in the east entrance of Main Channel, with Banguey Peak bearing 241° and the southwest extreme of South Mangsee Island 296°. A depth of 3^ fathoms has been obtained over this rock. Soundings of 8 fathoms were obtained by the British ship Gomus, 1882, on a shoal about 1 mile south of Kestrel Rock. Caution should be exercised when in this neighborhood. Kock. — A rock, awash (position doubtful) , was reported in 1899 to lie 8 miles eastward of Kestrel Rock. Its charted position is lati- tude 7° 29' north, longitude 117° 31' 45" east. Directions for Main Channel. — Vessels coming from the south- westward, and bound through Balabac Strait, during the northeast monsoon, will find Main Channel the most convenient. When ap- proaching the north end of Balambangan Island, do not bring Buttun Point to the westward of 221°, nor come into less than 14 fathoms, until the north hill on Banguey bears 105°, which latter mark leads over 1 mile outside the dangers off Siagut Point, and of those extending north of Tiga Islet. From a position about 3 miles northward of Siagut Point, an 82° course should carry a vessel about three-quarters of a mile south- ward of Mangsee Great Reef.' The light green color of the water over Great Mangsee Reef will, even at high tide, enable a good lookout aloft to make' out the edge sufficiently far off to permit of a vessel being guided past it at a safe distance. From about three-quarters of a mile off its south end, steer to pass about 2 miles southward to South Mangsee Island, and BANGUEY EAST COAST BANKAWAN ISLAND. 407 the same distance northward of Kestrel Rock, when the course may be altered to east, or as necessary according to destination {see rock mentioned above as being 8 miles to eastward of Kestral Rock). North Hill will be found useful for bearings. If proceeding to Sandakan, after passing the space with irregular soundings extending eastward from Banguey Island to the distance of about 30 miles, steer toward Muligi Islands so as to make them on a southeast bearing. Coming from the Sulu Sea, the Mangsee Islands should be made bearing about west, thence steer to pass 2 miles southward of them ; when the islands are abeam a course about west-southwest will lead to the entrance of Main Channel. Banguey east coast and dangers. — The east coast of Banguey is fronted by dangers which extend off several miles ; they consist for the most part of extensive reefs, dry at low water, separated from each other by narrow channels, and of which the outer ones .only will be described. Kahamkamman is a small islet 2 miles southeastward of East Guhuan, on the northwest end of a coral reef about 1 mile in ex- tent; the part surrounding|the islet dries at low water. Samson Patches, three in number, have 3^ to 4 fathoms on them ; •they lie eastward of Kahamkamman near the edge of the danger line marked on the chart; from the easternmost patch Kahamkam- man bears 276° 3 miles. A small 4^-fathom coral patch lies about 2 miles 128° from the eastern Samson Patch. May Williams Shoal, situated from 1.25 to 2 miles 148° from Kahamkamman Island, is 1 mile in length with a least depth of 2 fathoms and steep-to at a short distance. Latoan Island, situated about 4.5 miles southward of Kaham- kamman Island, is an oval-shaped island, 1 mile in extent, the trees upon it rising to an apex near the center. It is situated at the southwest part of a dry reef, which extends 2.7 miles eastward, and 1.5 miles northward of it. Outer Latoan Patch is the easternmost of three isolated patches which lie off the northeast edge of Latoan Island Reef ; it has a rock a few feet under water near its eastern edge, from which Latoan apex bears 245°, distant 3.7 miles. On the middle isolated patch, about a mile west-northwestward of the rock just mentioned, are some rocks, 12 feet above low water. East Banguey Patches are two small coral shoals with 2 and 2f fathoms, lying 1 mile and 1.25 miles respectively off the north- eastern extreme of the Bankawan Reefs ; from the outer one, Latoan sunynit bears 293°, distant nearly 4 miles. Bankawan Island, situated about three-quarters of a mile from the east coast of Banguey, is an irregular shaped flat island, 2.7 408 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENKd. miles in length north and south and 1.5 miles in breadth. Close to its east side is an island, -with an islet off its northeast point; and two-thirds of a mile southeastward of it, a small round island, from which a narrow tongue of sand projects three-quarters of a mile in a southeasterly diiection. Bankawan Reefs extend eastward to a distance of 3.25 miles from the northern point of Bankawan Island, and for 3 miles abreast the southern part. Abreast the center of these reefs is an isolated reef, 1.25 miles in length, the outer edge of which is 3.75 miles distant from Bankawan. From the south point of Bankawan numerous small reefs extend for about 2 miles, which, with the reef extending half a mile southeastward of the tongue of sand, the Bankawan Reefs, and the isolated reef just mentioned, form the northern limit of Bankawan Channel. Boats only can pass between the various reefs comprising the Bankawan and Latoan Islands group, but between them and the reef fronting the Banguey coast there is a deep water channel 'through which it is possible for small vessels to pass, although near the west point of Bankawan the channel is narrowed to little more than 200 yards by a small reef in the middle. The space eastward of the reef herein mentioned has not been com- pletely examined, so that shallow patches not charted maj exist. Banguey South Channel, leading from the China into the Sulu Sea, is somewhat intricate, and requires careful navigation, being for the greater part of its length bordered by dangers, and with others near the fairway. Ihe western entrance, about 1.75 miles wide, lies between MoUeangan Islands and Outer Shoal off-lying the coasts of Banguey and Borneo, respectively. The northern limits of the channel are the islands which lie close-to and appear to be part of the southern shore of Banguey. Carrington Reefs, and Southeast Banguey dangers. See below. The southern limits of the channel are formed by the northwest and north Borneo dangers. South Channel dangers,^ the reefs off the northern part of Mallawalle, Mallawalle eastern dangers, and Fair- way Shoal. A careful lookout aloft and with the sun in a faxoi'able position is necessary for navigating the channel in safety. (For directions, see below. ) Balabac Main Channel is considered much safer than any of the Banguey or Mallawalle Channels, and is therefore preferable. South coast of Banguey Island. — MoUeangan Island, 466 feet high, situated 1.25 miles southwestward of the south point of Banguey, is 1.25 miles in length east and west and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with reefs and rocks above water extending three- quarters of a mile in a northwest, west, and southwesterly direction ; PATANUKAM ISLAND MITFOKD HAEBOR. 409 the southeast and northeast sides of this island are steep-to. Several reefs with rocks above and below Avater lie nearly midway between Molleangan and Banguey. At 1 mile southwest of Molleangan lies Little Molleangan Island, from Avhich dangers extend a third of a mile eastward and three- quarters of a mile westward, with depths of 13 to 17 fathoms close-to. Patanunam Island, three-quarters of a mile eastward of the south point of Banguey, is more than half a mile in extent and 428 feet high; the summit is a useful object for determining a vessel's position when passing through Banguey South Channel. The island is fringed by a coral reef projecting 400 yards from its sontliwest end, whilst off the northeast end a detached narrow reef extends nearly a mile in that direction. Pagassan Island, hilly in character, is about 2.5 miles in length east-northeast and west-southwest, and about 1.5 miles in breadth; it is fringed by a reef Avhich projects 600 yards from the southern part, with a rock nearly awash at 200 yards beyond. AA^estward of this rock there are patches of 4 and 5 fathoms, the outer and most distant of which is situated 1 mile 255° from it. An island 1.25 miles in length east and Avest and about 800 yards wide lies westward of Pagassan Island, separated from it by a narrow channel named Middle Entrance. A reef extends from 200 to 1,100 yards from the eastern side of Pagassan, forming the western side of East Entrance. Lampassan Island, densely wooded, lies three-quarters of a mile eastward of Pagassan, and is about 3 miles in length ; from its southern and eastern points coral spits, dry at low water, extend to the distance of three-quarters of a mile, and a reef extends from 200 to 400 yards from its western side, forming the eastern side of East Entrance. Modum Island lies northward of East Entrance, the passage be- tween Pagassan and Lampassan Islands; a reef extends about 700 yards from its western side. The island is densely wooded. Mitford Harbor is situated on the south side of Banguey Island and within the islands just described. In the harbor are numerous coral reefs, but there appear to be clear spaces of considerable area, that off the site of the old settlement, abreast middle entrance, having depths varying from 5 to 11 fathoms. The harbor has only been partially surveyed. There are three entrances to it, the west entrance and channel within has about 5 fathoms, the middle and principal entrance between Pagassan and the island westward of it, is about 200 yards wide, and has depths of 7 to 10 fathoms. The east entrance, between the reefs extending from Pagassan and Lampassan Islands, is 450 yards wide, narrowing to 250 yards 410 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. at 1 mile from the sea, off the south end of Modum Island, the depths varying from 6 to 10 fathoms. There are no dangers in the channel, which has a north-north- west direction for about 1 mile, and then turns westward, northward, and eastward around the reef extending off the western end of Modum Island to the anchorage between that island and the south side of Banguey. A depth of 5 fathoms can be carried up to the anchorage. Beacons."— The passage up to the settlement, through the' east entrance, is marked by beacons painted red on the port hand entering and white on the starboard, situated on the edges of the reefs. Settlement. — A small settlement is situated on the coast of Ban- guey Island, abreast Modum Island. The settlement of Mitford, formed by the North Borneo Company, was situated on the north shore of the harbor, with a pier extending out to the edge of the reef which fronts it. It was abandoned in 1882, and no signs of its existence now remain. Tide. — The rise of tide is 7 feet. Water, — The water supply is reported to be good. At 8 miles from Mitford, at the foot of Banguey Peak, is a Ger- man tobacco plantation named Limbuak, on the river of that name, which discharges on the west coast of Banguey. Anchorage. — There is anchorage in from 4 to 5 fathoms, sand and ooze, in mid-channel between Banguey and Modum Islands, abreast the center of Modum, where the channel is a quarter of a mile wide between the reefs which fringe the shores to a distance of 100 yards on the south side, and from 100 to 200 yards on the north side. The approach to this anchorage is through the east entrance. Directions — Middle entrance.— In steering for the entrance of the middle channel, the two patches 1 mile southeast of it must be avoided. The west extreme of Pagassan Island bearing 323° leads eastward of the 4-fathom patch, and the same point bearing 351° leads westward of the 5-fathom patch. The middle of the hill (663 feet in height) close behind Mitford, bearing 315° leads through the center of the middle channel. When inside the islands, steer for the end of the pier avoiding a reef lying 300 yards south-south- eastward from it. The west entrance is not recommended. East entrance. — Approach the entrance with the west end of Modum Island bearing 329°, and when in the center of the entrance between the two outer beacons, steer north-northwestward for about a mile, and then follow the curve of the channel to the anchorage, it being only necessary to steer midway between the beacons, or, if BANGUEY CHANNEL. 411 they are not in position, between the reefs. There are no dangers in the channel. Southeast part of Banguey. — About half a mile eastward of Lampassan a point extends from Banguey toward the channel, forming one side of an inlet choked by reef, the other side being a peninsula forming the southeast end of Banguey. A short dis- tance off the point, on the reef extending from it, lie two islets, and from these a number of rocks, almost connected, extend in a south- erly direction nearly 1.5 miles. The southeast extreme of Banguey is bordered by x'eef , beyond which and off the mouth of the inlet just mentioned lie two large patches, the outermost being a mile from the shore reef. Dangers — North side of Banguey South Channel. — Carring- ton Reefs, situated about 2.5 miles east-southeastward from the east >end of Lampassan, are composed of coral, for the most part dry at low water ; they extend 4 miles in an east and west direction, and are 1 mile in breadth; at 800 yards from the north side of these reefs is a detached patch of 2^ fathoms. Between this shoal and the dangers extending from the Banguey shore is a channel three- quarters of a mile wide, but which, as a matter of ordinary navi- gation, no vessel would require to use. It is, however, practically available for small steam vessels, which may afterwards round the Carrington'Eeefs and return into Banguey South Channel; or they may proceed into the Sulu Sea, either by the narrow and intricate passage between the shore reefs and those surrounding Bankawan and Latoan, or by Bankawan Channel, a broader and much less intricate .passage separating the Banlcawan Reefs and Southeast Banguey dangers. The main channel, however, lies between the Carrington Reefs and those off the north part of Mallawalle Island, and this channel only should be used by strangers, taking care not to near the former dangers under a depth of 13 to 15 fathoms; the apex of Pagassan bearing 279° leads close to the southward, and the east end of Lampassan 348° leads westward. Southeast Banguey dangers comprise an extensive group of reefs and shoals 10.5 miles in length in an east-northeast and west- southwest direction, and nearly 5 miles in breadth, situated 1.75 miles eastward of Carrington Reefs. The west end of the group is defined by two small isolated reefs, dry at low water and steep-to; a good lookout is essential when nearing them, and the same pre- caution will have to be observed when passing through the channel, as the reefs forming the southern edge of these dangers are all steep-to. A space about 2 miles in extent at the eastern pai't of Southeast Banguey dangers is studded by a number of coral patches 412 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOEXEO. with from 1 to 5 fathoms ^Yater, and from the outer or northeastern, one the summit of Latoan Island bears 290°, distant 8.5 miles. Bankawan Channel, separating Bankawan Reefs from Southeast Banguey dangers, is three-quarters of a mile wide at its narrowest part. Tlie channel is nearl)' straight and lies in a 54° and opposite direction, but it Avill be necessary to keep a good lookout for the reefs on either side; with proper precautions there will be no diffi- culty in taking a vessel safely thi-ough. NORTHEAST COAST OF BORNEO. The northeast coast of Borneo, with the off-lying islands not previously mentioned, from Sampanmangio Point on the north to Sibuko River in the south, along a coast line of about 460 miles, will now be described. There are several good harbors, the i^rincipal one of which is Sandakan, the seat of government and chief place of trade. The company has also settlements at Kudat in Marudu Bay, Mitford Harbor in Banguey Island, Lahat Datu in Darvel Bay, Simporna in Trusan Treacher, and Tawao in Sibuko Bay. Tides. — The tidal wave that enters the Sulu Sea from the China Sea by Balabac Strait and Banguey Channel, penetrates as far as Unsang Peninsula, where it meets the wave from the Celebes Sea, which enters by the Sibutu Channel. The time of high water of the wave from the China Sea is lOh. Om. to 12h. Om., and of that from Celebes from 6h. to 7h. The range of the tides is 8 feet at Sandakan, 5^ feet off Dewhurst Bay, and in Dent Haven 3^ feet. Northwest point of Borneo. — Sampanmangio Point, with the western shore of Marudu Baj' as far south as and including Kudat Harbor has been described in the preceding chapter. Pulo 3yCela,u, an island about 65 feet high, lying 1.75 miles south ward of Tanjong Tigasamil, is triangular in shape, about one-third of a mile in extent, and connected with the mainland at low water. A reef which dries extends half a mile east-southeastward and south- ward; the eastern part of it is surrounded by shoal water to a dis- tance of 300 yards, but to the southward there are 7 fathoms close-to. The bay northward of Pulo Melau has depths of from 8 to 10 fathoms, and is clear of dangers outside a distance of 1,200 yards from the shore ; within that distance the shores of the bay are fronted by reefs and detached rocks. Pirate Point, 3 miles southward of Pulo Melau, is a low sandy point fringed with mangroves ; a sandy spit extends half a mile from this point and to the mouth of a small river situated half a mile north of the point. Coast. — From Pirate Point the coast trends southwestward, with mangroves and small streams at intervals, and is bordered by reefs, sand and mud flats extending off about 800 yards in places. BEANDON BEEFS — t'APE MAF^^IE. 413 Brandon Reefs. — Several large coral patches which nearly un- cover at low water are situated south-southwestward of Pirate Point at from 1 to 1.8 miles from the shore, over an extent of nearly -2 miles north and south. From the outer of these patches Pirate Point bears 19° distant 5.5 miles. They lie near the outer edge of a shoal bank which ex- lends 2 miles oifshore; about 400 yards outside the northern patch is a small bank M'ith IJ feet on it and a depth of 3^ fathoms between, and at the same distance southeastward of the outermost patch the depth is If fathoms. Woody Island, about 18 feet high, lying nearly 8.5 miles south- south westMard from Pirate Point and off the entrance to Matungan Eiver, is a small mound surrounded by low rocks studded with man- groves. It is about 1,800 yards from the shore on the south side of the river entrance, and is connected with it at low water by a sand- bank which dries 2 feet. Coast.^ — From west of Woody Island the coast, fringed with man- groves and intersected by small streams, trends in a southerly direc- tion for a distance of 4 miles to the entrance of Marudu River, and is fronted b}' extensive sand and mud flats, the latter of which drj^ from 1 to 2 feet. Marudu River — Depths. — The channel leading to the entrance of the Marudu Eiver has a least depth of H feet, and follows a gen- eral west-southwesterly direction for about 3 miles between extensive mud banks which extend 2 miles from the shore, and dry from 1 to 5 feet at low water springs. Beacons mark the channel leading to the entrance of the river, but their positions are constantly changed as the channel alters. Small launches of about 6 feet draught can ascend this river for about 3 miles at high water, but the channel must be previously ]narked by beacons. Marudu Eiver is reported to be shoaling. Anchorage. — Vessels of 15 feet draft can anchor off Marudu Eivei- in about 3i fathoms, mudr with the pier at Tanjong Batu bearing 117°. distant about 2.5 miles. Large vessels must anchor 600 yards northeastward of this position in from 5i to 6 fathoms, or on the same bearing 1,600 yards from the pier. Coast. — From the entrance to Marudu Eiver the coast trends east for a distance of 5 miles to the mouth of Taritipan Eiver, and is covered with dense mangroves; mud banks which dry from 1 to 2 feet front the shore. Behind the mangroves at the head of the bay ai'e rubber and tobacco, estates. Ea,stern Shore. — Cape Mafsie, the eastern entrance point of Marudu Baj' is situated 100°, 11.75 miles from Tanjong Aru. It is 56 414 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. feet high, with conspicuous white cliffs and a sharp rock 35 feet high and another rock 30 feet high lying close to it. Reef .—The cape is fronted by a reef which extends one-third of a mile off, whence its edge trends north-northwestward for nearly 2.25 miles, and then eastward for nearly 1.5 miles. Its western edge is of irregular shape, and the breadth of the reef varies from 1 to 2 miles. The eastern edge faces the inlet leading to the Melobong Eirer. A detached reef about one-third of a mile in extent, the southern part of which dries, lies a quarter of a mile off the north- western extremity, and foul ground extends three-quarters of a mile northward of the main reef. Between the reef and the shore are narrow lanes of deep water. Dangers. — A shoal about 800 yards in extent with a least depth of 2 fathoms lies 318°, 3.5 miles from Cape Mafsie. At 1.75 miles 313° from the cape, and a quarter of a mile from the edge of the reef described above, is a rocky shoal one-third of a mile in length, the center part of which dries. A coral patch of 2| fathoms lies 283°, distant nearly 2 miles from the cape. Tanjong Perawan, about 2.5 miles southward of Cape Mafsie, is 56 feet high, and is easily distinguished by its red cliffs. From this point the coast curves southeastward to the mouth of the Benkoka River, forming a shallow bay, off the shore of which the sand dries from one-quarter to three-quarters of a mile. Casuarina trees extend along the coast southward of Cape Mafsie. A flat with depths of less than 3 fathoms extends 2.25 miles off-shore between Tanjong Perawan and Benkoka River. (See Anchorage, described under Marudu Bay, in preceding chapter.) Benkoka River. — The entrance to this river, the largest in Marudu Bay, is situated 3 miles southward of Tanjong Perawan and opposite Kudat Harbor. The mouth is about 800 yards wide, rapidly decreasing to an uniform breadth of about 200 yards. It is obstructed by a large sand spit, which extends 1.7 miles from the shore on the north side of the entrance. Benkoka Islet, the tops of the trees on which are 25 feet high, lies on the southern side of the sand spit, nearly three-quarters of a mile from its extremity. At 1.3 miles eastward of Benkoka Islet the river takes an abrupt turn to the southward, a branch continuing to the southeastward. Talaga Village lies on the north bank of the branch just men- tioned, about 2 mile's eastward of Benkoka Islet. There are several villages in the neighborhood of the Benkoka River. Depth. — The depth on the bar of Benkoka River is about 3 feet at low water springs in the beaconed channel, within which the depths increase. TENGA ISLAND BAERAUT EEEP. 415 Launches of 6 to 8 feet draft can at -bigh water ascend the river to the village of Pitas, a distance of 12 miles, where there is a tobacco estate. Beacons. — The channel leading to the entrance of the Benkoka River is marked by beacons, the positions of which are constantly changed as the channel alters. Coast. — The coast from Benkoka River to a rounded point abreast Zebra Reefs is sandy and fringed with high casiiarina trees, and is fronted by shoal water extending from three-quarters of a mile to 1.25 miles from the shore. Between this point and another, 2.75 miles southward, the coast recedes eastward, forming a bay about 1 mile deep, the shores of which are intersected by streams and man- groves, the hills at the back sloping gradually to the sea. The shore of the bay is fronted by a bank of sand and coral to a distance of half a mile in places. Tenga River. — The mouth of this river adjoins that of the Ben- koka, being distant 1.3 miles southwestward from Benkoka Islet. The Tenga is a branch of the Benkoka River, and flows into the bay between two sand spits which extend two-thirds of a mile from the shore.' The depth on the bar between these spits is 1 foot at low water springs. Taka River. — The entrance to this river is situated 3.26 miles southwestward of the entrance to the Tenga River. The western side of the entrance channel is formed by a sand spit which projects northward for more than a mile. The bar of the river, off the ex- tremity of the sand spit, has less than 2 feet on it at low water springs and generally breaks. Zebra Reefs are coral patches with deep water between them, and also between them and the shore; they are situated southwestward of the entrance to the Taka River, between 0.6 to 0.9 mile from the coast. Landmark. — A cutch factory, the chimney of which is 90 feet high and forms a conspicuous landmark, is situated about 1,200 yards southwestward of the southern point of the bay last described, and near Mempakit village. Anchorage. — Good anchorage can. be obtained in a depth of 7 fathoms, mud, with the factory chimney bearing 119°, distant 800 yards. Powell Rock, with a depth of less than 6 feet over it, lies 900 yards from the shore, with the factory chimneybearing 171°, distant 1,300 yards. Abreast Powell Rock a reef dries off from the shore for 550 yards. Barraut Reef is a rocky shoal a quarter of a mile in length, north and south, by 300 yards broad. The least depth of 4 feet is on a coral patch about 100 yards long and 50 yards broad, situated at the 416 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. southern end of the reef, on the northern part of which the depth is Ih fathoms. It lies about 3 miles from tlie eastern shore of the bay, and from the shoal spot Sandilands Eock Lighthouse bears 345 \ distant 9.6 miles. Bidge Point lies 3.5 miles 240° from the cutch factory. The shore between is fringed with a reef of sand and coral, which extends in a north-northeasterly direction for about 1 mile from Ridge Point. Tanjong Batu, situated at the southeastern corner of Marudu Bay, and i miles southwestward from Ridge Point, is a low point, on the west and south sides of which sand spits, dry at low water, extend off about 200 yards. The river Mari Sim Sim enters the sea on the south side of the point. Pier. — At three-quarters of a mile southward of Tanjong Batu there is a pier 414 feet long in a northwest direction, with a depth of 5 feet at low Avaterat the outer end. Here are the offices and the headquarters of the North Borneo Exploration Company. A lailway ,3 miles long connects the head of this pier with the manganese mines at Taritipan. Between Tanjong Batu and the pier is a small and shallow bay, the mud at the head of which dries out 300 yards. Anchorage. — Vessels of 15 feet draft can anchor in a depth of 5:[ fathoms with the pier bearing 118°, distant three-quarters of a mile, and those of less draught can anchor with the pier on about the same bearing, distant 8.00 yards, in a depth of about 4 fathoms, muddy bottom. Coast. — From Cape Mafsie the coast trends north-northeastward 1.25 miles to the western entrance of an inlet leading to Melobong RiA'er, and is fronted by the reef extending noi'tliAvard, described above. The eastern entrance point of the inlet is surrounded by a reef which contracts the width of the channel to about 1,200 yards; the soutliAvestern angle of the eastern reef is marked by a beacon. ' From the outer points of the reefs the inlet is 3 miles in length in a southeasterly direction, and the head is much obstructed by mud banks, Avliich leave a narrow channel toward the eastern shore. The least water in the approach to the river is apparently about 5 feet at low water about a quarter of a mile outside the entrance, the general depths in the inlet being from 1 J to 3 fathoms. Pule Perak is a thickly wooded islet with the tops of the trees about 90 feet high, and nearly a, quarter of a mile long. It is situated about a quarter of a mile off the eastern entrance point of the inlet leading to the Melobong River. Melobong River. — Boats entering Melobong River steer for Pulo Perak on an easterly bearing, and when within a distance of 1 mile a southeastevlv course leads toward the mouth of the river. SILK ISLAND BANGXJEY CHANNEL. 417 Coast. — From Pulo Perak the coast of Borneo trends east- northeastward to Inaruntang Point, 6.25 miles distant; at about midway the shore recedes southeastward, forming a baj^ nearly 2 miles wide in the entrance and 1.5 miles deep. The shore is bordered by a reef, which completely fills up the bay mentioned. Inaruntang Point is the northern extreme of a tongue of land which projects northward for about 23 miles between Marudu and Paitan Bays, with an average width of 13 miles. From the point the coast trends southeastward to abreast Silk Island and is fronted by a shoal bank extending from 2 to 3 miles offshore, on which are numerous reefs and rocks, sunken and awash, on the southwestern side of the Mallawalle Channel. Silk Island, lying 3.25 miles southeastward from Inaruntang Point and a quarter of a mile from the shore, is nearly a mile long east and west and 1,200 yards broad. It is surrounded by a reef which extends half a mil« eastward from it. The northeastern side of Silk Island is a red cliff 36 feet high. Islands and dangers on the north coast of Borneo — North- west and North Borneo dangers. — Lying off the north coast of Borneo are a number of coral shoals, generally of small extent, some partially dry at low water while others dry entirely, and two are marked by sand cays which shine brightly in the sunlight. Those dangers only will be described which limit the channels proper for vessels to proceed by; to mention the others in detail would tend rather to confuse navigators, who can have no induce- ment to risk the safety of their vessels by venturing among them. South side of Banguey South Channel — Outer Shoal — Buoy. — Outer Shoal, the largest of the Northwest Borneo dangers, forms the southwest limit of Banguey South Channel; it is about 1 mile in extent and steep-to, with about 6 feet water, and a patch which dries on its eastern side. From its northwest end the summit of Little MoUeangan bears 35°, and is distant 2.5 miles. A red and white vertically striped can buoy is moored off the northwest end of the Outer Shoal. A sand cay on the east side of a coral ledge nearly awash and steep-to, lies 105° 2.75 miles from the northeast extreme of Outer Shoal. Nearly midway between Outer Shoal and this sand cay is a small coral patch with 6 feet water and a depth of 15 fathoms around. Another sand cay, in the center of a coral ledge, lies 1 mile east- ward of the former. These cays are useful as marking the limits of the channel on the Borneo side and, being composed of white coral sand, are conspicuous. 90045—15 27 418 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOBNEO. Nearly 3 miles east-northeastward from the eastern sand cay is a 2-fathom patch, with two ledges which dry a short distance south- ward. From this shoal, which is the most northerly of the North Borneo dangers, the summit of Patanunam bears 331°, distant about 3.75 miles. About 1.7 miles east from the 2-fathom shoal is the outer of two coral ledges lying close together, with Patanunam Summit bearing 814°, distant 5.25 miles. A 3-fathom patch lies 600 yards east- southeast, and a ledge of rocks is distant about 1.7 miles in the same direction from these dangers. The latter is within a third of a mile of the reef fronting the Borneo shore southeastward of Inaruntang Point to a distance of about 2 miles, with numerous rocks with less than 6 feet of water on them close to its edge. Dangers in the fairway. — Ten-Foot Rock, the westernmost of the fairway dangers, is a coral head 70 yards in length, with a least depth of 1| fathoms, and 12 to 17 fathoms close around. It lies with Patanunam Summit bearing 346°, distant about 2.5 miles. As other dangers may exist here, the utmost caution should be used when navigating in this locality. About one-third of a mile south- ward of the Ten-Foot Eock are heavy tide rips. Petrel Rock is a narrow ridge of coral about 40 yards in extent, with 14 feet water, and a depth of 12 fathoms close around. It lies about 1,200 yards north-northeastward of Ten-Foot Rock. Beacon. — A patch, of If fathoms lies about three-quarters of a mile eastward of Petrel Eock. It is marked by a beacon consisting of a staff surmounted by a ball, painted vertically red and white. South Channel dangers comprise six coral reefs lying in the fairway eastward of Petrel Rock, with irregular depths between. Three of these reefs lie in an east and west direction, about half a mile apart, the two westernmost dry at low water; the other is a strip of coral nearly three- fourths of a mile in length, with a rock nearly awash at its eastern extreme. A 2|-fathom patch lies 165° 0.6 mile, and another with the same depth 58° 1.5 miles from the rock nearly awash. Between the different dangers are passages which it is possible for vessels to pass through, but as this would serve no useful purpose it is advisable to consider these shoals as a dangerous group. Clearing marks. — The apex of MoUeangan Island 261° leads northward of South Channel dangers. The same object 275° leads southward, but close northward of the If-fathom patch marked by a beacon. Mallawalle Island, about 6.75 miles distant from the southeast part of Banguey, and 7.25 miles eastward from Inaruntang Point, is of irregular shape, 5.5 miles in length in a west-northwesterly and MALLAWALLE THE STEAGGLEE. 419 east-southeasterly direction, and from 1.75 to 3.75 miles in breadth. The island for the most part consists of ranges of hills from 400 to 500 feet high. But one range, toward the northwest end, attains the elevation of 562 feet. Close to the coast, on the west side, is West Islet. Northwest Islet lies a short distance off the northwest end, and North Islet, low and nearly 1 mile in length, almost joins the north part of the main island. The island is fringed by a reef which extends nearly a mile in places from the east, north, and west points, and to about half that distance from its south point. Mallawalle Island is a British pos- session. A sand cay is situated on a reef about a mile in length at two- thirds of a mile northeast of Mallawalle North Islet, with patches east and west of it, forming the south side of Banguey South Chan- nel. Another sand cay marks the west end of a reef at about a mile off the east end of Mallawalle Island. North-northwest 1.5 miles from' this sand cay there is a narrow coral patch, half a mile in length, with 13 fathoms close around it. Mallawalle eastern dangers comprise a large number of de- tached reefs and shoals which extend 10 or 11 miles in an easterly and southeasterly direction from Mallawalle. It is only the northern edge of these dangers, forming the eastern part of Banguey South Channel, which require description, for there can be no object in risk- ing a vessel amongst them. About 2.7 miles 56° from the sand cay off the eastern end of Malla- walle Island is a coral reef which dries, and has depths of 13 and 16 fathoms close around. One-third of a mile southward of this reef is a reef half a mile in extent with less than 6 feet water over it. A cluster of reefs, occupying a space 1,25 miles in extent, with 13 fathoms close-to on the northern side, lies a mile eastward of the coral reef just described, and 75°, 3.5 miles from the same danger is a reef half a mile in length with 1^ fathoms water on its northern end. This danger, being always covered, is not so readily seen as the others, and it is important to bear this in mind, as the shoal occupies a prominent position, bordering as it does on the deep water of Banguey South Channel. The Straggler, a small coral islet with trees 20 feet high, is a useful object for assisting in the navigation of the eastern part of Banguey South Channel. From it the IJ-fathom reef just de- scribed lies 300°, nearly 1.5 miles, while westward of the islet are several other dangers. The reef surrounding the islet extends more than a mile in an easterly direction, and more than half a mile south- westward. 420 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNEO. About 1.7 miles southeastward from the eastern extreme of Strag- gler Eeef, and 109° from the islet, is the outer edge of a reef having in some places less than 6 feet water ; half a mile eastward of it is a 3|-fathom coral patch. Other dangers of the group extend 7 miles farther southward. I'airway Shoal, at the eastern entrance of South Banguey Chan- nel, is three-quarters of a mile in diameter, with a rock awash near its southern part, from which Straggler Islet bears 227°, distant 2.5 miles. The southern edge of the shoal is, however, only 1.5 miles from the eastern extreme of Straggler Eeef, which limits the width of the channel southward of Fairway Shoal ; the channel northward of the shoal is nearly 3 miles wide. At 1.5 miles eastward of Fair- way Shoal there is a patch of 3^ fathoms, three-quarters of a mile in length north and South, and half a mile broad, with deep water jiround. Directions for Banguey South Channel. — Attention to these directions must be supplemented by a vigilant and careful lookout from aloft. The best time for proceeding through from the west- ward is with the sun astern, when there is seldom much difficulty in making out the various dangers as the vessel advances. Balabac Main Channel, however, is considered a safer route. Having rounded Kalampunian Island off the northwest extreme of Borneo, steer for MoUeangan Islands bearing about east, and when about 5 miles from the reef encircling them edge southeastward, opening the summit of the larger island southward of the smaller island. Then steer to pass about three-quarters of a mile southward of the latter, observing that the whole of Patanunam Island should not be opened eastward of MoUeangan Island until the summit of Little MoUeangan bears 24°, which will lead clear of Outer Shoal. Having passed Little MoUeangan, steer more to the northeastward, keeping within a mile of MoUeangan and Patanunam. Having passed those islands, bring the peak of Patanunam to bear 265° and steer 85° through the fairway between the South Channel dangers and the rock off the south end of Pagassan, until the sand cay off the north side of Mallawalle Island is abeam, distant about 1.25 miles, when a 109° course will lead clear of the dangers off the northern side of Mallawalle. When the sand cay off the east extreme of that island bears 182°, distant a little over 2 miles, steer 70°, which course being preserved will lead 1 mile northward of Fair- way Shoal into the Sulu Sea. Bearings of Straggler Island will check the position of the vessel while westward of Fairway Shoal. Meander Shoal. — This dangerous reef, composed of coral and satnd, with If fathoms water, is nearly half a mile in extent and steep-to; it is situated about 6.25 miles east-northeastward of Fair- PUDSEY DAWSON MONMOUTH SHOALS. 421 way Shoal, and 67° 17.5 miles from the northeast point of Malla- walle Island. A coral reef with If fathoms over it lies 65° 5.5 miles from Meander Shoal. About a mile westward is a patch of 3 fathoms, anS at 1.25 miles eastward one of 6 fathoms. There are also small patches of 4 fathoms south of Meander Shoal at the distance, respectiTely, of 2 and 4 miles. A bank, about half a mile in diameter, with a least depth of 9 fathoms and 22 fathoms close around, was reported by the British ship Wanderer in 1890 to lie situated with Mount Ledan, Kagayan Sulu bearing 121°, distant about 29 miles. The Pudsey Dawson dangers are a series of coral patches, the westernmost of which, with 2^ fathoms, lies 98° 19 miles from the east end of Mallawalle Island; from this patch for about 16 miles in an east-northeast direction, there are several banks, principally coral and sand, with from 2| to 10 fathoms upon them and deep water between. Between these shoals and the Mallawalle eastern dangers is a shoal with about 6 feet water on it, from which the western summit of Tigabu bears 223°, distant about 11 miles. Detached shoal patches. — Northward of Pudsey Dawson dan- gers and of Meander Patch, to the parallel of latitude 7° 25' north, and between the meridian of longitude 117° 50' east, and the dangers already described lying westward of Banguey Island, there are numerous coral patches dangerous to navigation. Many of these have depth of from 2>\ to 5 fathoms, and the space within the above approximate limits should be avoided by vessels when possible. The Muligi Patches consist of a number of coral banks, extend- ing about 7 miles east and west, upon which the ascertained depths are from 5 to 10 fathoms; the easternmost of these patches, with 8 fathoms, lies 276°, distant 20 miles, from the larger Muligi Island. There may be less water on these patches, and numerous reefs are reported to lie westward of them. Shoals. — A shoal about half a mile in extent, with a depth of 5 fathoms over coral, lies 15.75 miles 258° from Muligi Island. About three-quarters of a mile southwestward of it is another similar patch of coral with 5 fathoms on it, separated from the former by a deep channel. Monmouth Shoals, lying southwestward of Muligi Island, consist of a group of five detached coral shoals covered by from 2| to 4J fathoms, with deep water between them. They extend over a space of 6 miles in a northeasterly and opposite direction, and from the shoalest spot — 2\ fathoms, situated in about the center of the group — Muligi Island bears 57°, distant 19.25 miles. 422 PALAWAIiT ISLAND AND BORNEO. It appears probable that these shoals are identical with Wanderer Shoal, mentioned below. Wanderer Shoal, about 13 miles southward of the Muligi Patches, is about 2 miles in extent, and has a depth of 2 fathoms or less at its southeast end. Its position is doubtful. Minna Reefs, about 3.5 miles in length northwest and southeast and three-quarters of a mile in width, with a depth of half a fathom at each end and 1^ fathoms between, lie with their northwest ex- treme situated 58°, distant 8 miles from Tigabu Island. Schuck Reef, 1 mile in extent and with a depth of 3J fathoms, is reported to be situated in latitude 6° 49' north, longitude 117° 62' east. The space included between the Pudsey Dawson dangers, Muligi Patches, Minna Eeef, Billean dangers (see below), and Schuck Reef has not been examined; this area is reported to contain numerous reefs with from 1 to 2 fathoms water. (See pecked line on chart, within which no vessel should enter. ) Mambahenauhan. — The island Mambahenauhan, situated about 26.5 miles 184° from the southeast point of Kagayan Sulu, is 145 feet in height, of brown rock, with brushwood and small trees on the summit. It is steep-to, and may be approached to a distance of half a mile. Coast. — ^The northeast coast of Borneo, between Silk Island, in Mallawalle Channel, and Sandakan Harbor, is generally low, densely wooded, intersected by numerous rivers and streams, and for a con- siderable distance from the shore the water is shallow and abounds with coral reefs. From abreast Silk Island the coast trends eastward for 3.5 miles to the northeastern point of Bankoka, whence it turns southward for 5 miles to the entrance of Paitan Bay. As it would be impracticable from any mere written description to navigate with safety among the numerous dangers which lie east- Avard of Mallawalle Island, it will be sufficient to describe the prin- cipal dangers, the appearance of the various islands and objects which present themselves as marks, and the routes usually adopted by mariners acquainted with the coast. For further information the charts must be referred to. Bankoka Hill is a conspicuous wooded hill, 587 feet in height, on the mainland south-southwestward 4.5 miles from the northeastern point of Bankoka, eastward of Silk Island, and 1.25 miles from the shore. Mallawalle Channel. — Dangers extend 3 or 4 miles off from the northeast coast of Borneo, and between these and Mallawalle Island there is a channel 1.7 miles in width. EGEEIA ROCKS TIGABU. 423 Dangers — North, side of channel. — Egeria Bocks, about 400 yards in extent, covered by 3 feet water, and with a depth of 9 fathoms close around, lie 238°, distant 2.5 miles from the islet northwest of Mallawalle, with the south extreme of the island bearing 112°. Beefs. — At 3.75 miles 116° from the southern point of Mallawalle Island is the southwesternmost of a group of small reefs which extend northeastward 1.25 miles with depths of from 7 to 10 fathoms around them. The northeastern reef dries one foot, and at 400 yards westward of the southwestern reef is a patch of 4 fathoms. Cay. — ^At 6.5 miles 107° from the southern end of Mallawalle Isjand is a cay surrounded by a reef about a quarter of a mile in extent. At 1.75 miles east-southeastward of the cay are two reefs about 600 yards in length parallel to each other, with dangers ex- tending more than a mile northward of them. Tibakkan, situated about 10.75 miles 116° of the south point of Mallawalle Island, is a sand cay covered with trees 108 feet high. Dangers extend 1.5 miles in a northeasterly direction from this island. Two coral reefs, about a mile in extent, lie 1.5 miles northwest- ward of Tibakkan, on the northeast side of the track recommended through the Mallawalle Channel. Tambulian (with bushes 12 feet high), Bu-a-ning, and the adja- cent reefs (including the two coral reefs just described), form the southeastern boundary of the Mallawalle eastern dangers. Mosquito Bock, about 200 yards in extent, with a depth of 3 feet, and steep-to, lies 41° 2.25 miles from Tibakkan Island. Tigabu, about 2.5 miles southward of Tibakkan, is an island about 1 mile in length, and densely wooded, the tops of the trees being 227 feet high. It is surrounded by a reef which extends two-thirds of a mile northwestward from the island. Detached reefs, on which are several sand cays, extend about 3.5 miles in an east-northeasterly direction, and 2.5 miles northeastward from Tigabu Island. South side of channel. — Southeastward of North Borneo dan- gers already described, and between them and Lin-gi-san Reef are several rocks lying near the Mallawalle Channel. At -3 miles 84° from Inanmtang Point and 2.25 miles northward of Silk Island is the northern end of a reef with less than 6 feet on it ; at one-third of a mile northeastward is a patch of 3 fathoms, and at three-quarters of a mile southeastward from the northern end of the reef is a rock awash at low water ; all these are near the 5-f athom line. Cay." — Northeastward of Silk Island is a reef nearly 1.75 miles long north and south, with a cay about a mile from its northern end, 424 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. which end is distant nearly 2 miles northeastward from the red cliff on Silk Island. Lin-gi-san is a small rocky reef, with a head 30 feet in height, lying about 30°, distant 1.7 miles from the northeast point of Bankoka. Passage Reef. — At the distance of about 2 miles southwestward of the south end of Mallawalle Island, and 1.25 miles 36° of Lin-gi- san Eock, lies Passage Eeef,' awash at low water spring tides, and easily distinguished; it may be passed on either side, but the route recommended lies northward. Another reef, awash at low water, on which is a small sand cay, is situated 2.7 miles, 96°, of Passage Keef. Fly Rock, on the sputhern side of the Mallawalle Channel, awash at low water and about 300 yards in extent, lies 83° 2.25 miles from Lin-gi-san, and is distant 1.5 miles, 247°, from the sand cay above. Southward of Fly Eock and separated from it by a narrow chan- nel there is a coral reef about a mile in extent, parts of which dry at low water. Clearing marks. — ^Banguey Peak in line with the west extreme of West Island (Mallawalle), bearing 325°, leads between Passage Eeef and the cay eastward of it and eastward of Fly Eock; and Kukuban Island on with the north end of Tigabu Island, bearing 115°, leads between Fly Eock and the cay above mentioned. Mandiralla, an island about half a mile in length east and west, is surrounded by a coral reef, which extends to a distance of about 1,200 yards on the north side, and for a mile eastward ; it lies 5 miles eastward of the northeast point of Bankoka, and 6.5 miles southward of the eastern end of Mallawalle Island. Mandiralla is densely wooded, the tops of the trees being 144 feet above the sea. Foul ground extends about 3.5 miles east-southeastward and 4.5 miles southeastward of Mandiralla. Tanj Bungaan is a thickly wooded island of considerable extent lying about 4 miles southeast of Bankoka Hill. Eeefs extend 1.5 miles northward and nearly as far eastward from the island. Bush Island, lying 8.75 miles east-southeastward from Bankoka Hill, is a sand cay on which are a few bushes, the tops of which are about 10 feet high; it stands near the middle of a coral reef about 1.5 miles in length in a northeast and southwest direction. Foul ground. — Much foul ground exists between Mandiralla, the coast of Bankoka, Tanj Bungaan and Bush Island. Center of channel. — Kukuban is a sand cay situated on the southwest part of a coral reef, about half a mile in diameter, lying 4 miles eastward of Mandiralla ; it is covered with trees 70 feet high. This cay and the dangers described below lie in the center of Malla- NOETHEAST COAST OF EOENEO. 425 walle Channel, there being a passage on either side of them. See the chart.) Eiocks — Beacon. — Between Kukuban and Tigabu Island, situated 4.5 miles southeastward, there are the following dangers lying be- tween the recommended tracks through the Mallawalle Channel, and much caution is necessary when navigating in the neighborhood. A rock, situated 148°, distant 1.1 miles from Kukuban, awash at low water, and marked with a beacon surmounted by a black spheri- cal cage. A rock lying 164° 2 miles from Kukuban, awash at low water, but difficult to see. Merlin Rock, apparently nearly awash at low water and dark colored, situated 1,400 yards east of the rock marked by the beacon. A depth of 1^ fathoms situated with Kukuban Islet bearing 327°, distant 2.1 miles ; a patch of 3^ fathoms lies 400 yards southeast of it. These two shoals are small in extent and are surrounded by depths of from 9 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. A sand cay on a coral reef, 600 yards in extent, and a coral patch of nearly the same dimensions lying respectively 1.5 miles 106° and 2.25 miles 126° from Kukuban; these are easily made out from the masthead. Northeast coast of Borneo and off-lying' islands. — The coast from the vicinity of Bankoka Hill trends southward and southeast- ward for about 18 miles to a position 2.5 miles south of the south- eastern extreme of Simaddel Island. It has not been surveyed. Between this part of the coast and Simaddel is Paitan Bay, 11 miles wide, with numerous islets and reefs in it and apparently shallow. It has been only partially examined. From the southern end of this bay the coast trends eastward to Tanjong Kinulubaltan, abreast the eastern end of Simaddel, whence it trends southeastward for 18 miles to Tanjong Siasib, and then turns south to Labuk Bay. The off- lying islands and reefs, between which a vessel must pass on her way from Mallawalle Channel, were surveyed in 1881 and 1889 by the British ships Flying Fish and Rambler to a distance of from 13 to 18 miles from the shore; beyond this distance there is the unexplored region extending northward to Pudsey Dawson dangers. Simaddel or Jambongon Island, lying 13 miles southeastward from Bankoka Hill, is 11 miles in length east and west and about 7.5 miles in breadth. On the western side an inlet, 1.6 miles wide, the head of which is not defined, penetrates the island in an east-south- easterly ditection for over 3 miles. The land at the head of the inlet is low and densely wooded ; the shores of the inlet and of the south and east sides of the island are wooded. There is a village on the 426 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. southeast side of the island, and at about 1 mile on either side of it is a cliff 20 feet high, the southern one of which is red. Northeast and Southwest Bluffs are two prominent headlands, 5.25 miles apart, both on the west coast of Simaddel; the former is 442 feet and the latter about 460 feet in height. The inlet mentioned above is between them. The north point of the island, about 5 miles eastward of North- east Bluff, rises to a hill about two-thirds of a mile within the point. The island is separated from the mainland on the south by a channel three-quarters of a mile wide in its narrowest part, which has not been completely examined. Dangers. — The western shores of Simaddel appear to be clean, but the water is shallow, there being a depth of 2 fathoms in the entrance of the inlet mentioned. A sand patch and reef, which dry 4 feet and have IJ to 2| fathoms around, lie 255° 2.25 miles from Northeast Bluff. From the coast of Simaddel Island reefs and dangers extend north and northeast to a distance of about 5.5 miles and eastward for 8 miles. On these reefs are many sand cays, two of which, Mabahok and Ivalangaan, are especially conspicuous, being covered with trees whose tops are about 80 feet above the sea. Anchorage may be had northwestward of Simaddel Island in 5J fathoms, mud, with the summit of Northeast Bluff bearing 156°, dis- tant about 2.25 miles, and the northern extreme of the island 95°. The approach to the anchorage from the northward is by a clear pas- sage about 3 miles wide between the foul ground southeastward of Mandiralla Island and Bush Island on the west and the dangers ex- tending northward from Simaddel on the east. The depths decrease gradually from 11 and 12 fathoms in the channel outside to the anchorage, a distance of about 7 miles. Directions. — When approaching the above anchorage from the northwestward, pass southwestward of Kulniban Cay, and when it bears 360° steer 180°, keeping it astern until the southeastern extreme of Tigabu Island bears 67°, when a 199° course will lead to the anchorage. From the eastward pass southward of Tigabu, and when the south- eastern extreme of that island bears 67° steer 247°, keeping it astern until the trees on Kukuban bear 360°, or the summit of Northeast Bluff bears 187°, when steer 199° for the anchorage. Sipindung is a sand cay covered with bushes, the tops of which are about 20 feet high ; it lies 4.5 miles 108° from Tigabu, and is on the west side of a. coral reef about half a mile in extent. Dangers extend about two-thirds of a mile south and southwest of this islet, 2.5 miles in a north-northeast direction, and 1.25 miles to the north- west. / SANDY ISLAND BILLEAN. 427 Between the Sipindung dangers and the reefs projecting eastward from Tigabu, there is a clear passage 1.5 miles in width. Southwest of Sipindung, at the distance of 1.25 miles, there is a group of reefs oyer half a mile in extent ; between these and the other dangers above mentioned, also southwest of but nearer to Sipindung, there is a clear passage nearly three-quarters of a mile in width, through which lies the track from Mallawalle Channel. A small shoal, with less than 6 feet water, lies between the above group of reefs and the reefs extending from Simaddel Island. Sandy Island is a small sand cay which sometimes covers and is near the middle of a coral reef about half a mile in extent, off which detached patches extend 1,200 yards westward; it lies about 4.25 miles 126° of Sipindung, and between, at the distance of 2.7 miles in a west-northwest direction from Sandy Island, there is a coral reef about a third of a mile in extent. Beacon. — Sandy Island is marked by a skeleton tripod beacon, 35 feet in height, painted red and black, with a basket cage on its summit. Coral patches. — ^Three-quarters of a mile southeast of Sandy Island is a coral patch of 4 fathoms. Another small patch of 4 fathoms lies 1.75 miles 234° from the beacon, and a patch of 7 fathoms 226° 1 mile from it, the track from Mallawalle Channel lying between. Leonan is a sand cay 5 miles 178° of Sandy Island, and sometimes covers. It is situated on, and about 1 mile from the northeast end of, an extensive chain of reefs, which at this part extends 8 miles east- northeast from the shore of Simaddel Island. There are four other small cays on this chain of reefs. A small 2-f athom patch lies 2 miles northwest of Leonan. Reefs — ^Bea,con. — ^At the distance of 4.5 miles 143° from Sandy Island there is a small coral reef marked by an iron-pole beacon with spherical top mark painted red. Between this reef and that on which Leonan Cay is situated there is a clear channel nearly 2 miles in width. At about 1 mile 36° from the above beacon is the southwest end of some coral patches that dry, which extend northeastward to the dis- tance of about three-quarters of a mile. Billean, situated 12 miles 130° of Leonan Cay and 10 miles from the northeast coast of Borneo, is an island or cay on which there are a few bushes about 38 feet high. It is surrounded by coral reefs and dangers, which extend in a northeasterly direction from it to the dis- tance of about 3.75 miles. A cay lies a quarter of a mile southeast of Billean. Buoy. — A red and white vertically striped can buoy marks the 3-fathom patch at the northeast extreme of the dangers extending 428 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. from Billean, Avith that island bearing 222°, distant 3.75 miles. The track recommended is northward and eastward of the buoy. Billean North Dangers. — ^About 9 miles northward of Billean and 7.5 miles eastward of Leonan Cay is a group of coral reefs about 4 miles in extent east and west, upon which the least known depth is 1^ fathoms. As these dangers have not been completely examined, they should be carefully avoided. Billean South. Dangers is another scattered group of coral reefs lying east-northeastAvard of Billean Cay, distant 7 to 11 miles; they consist of the following: A small 2|-fathom patch, situated 9 miles, 49°, from Billean Cay; Sunbeam, a 3-fathom patch, lying 72° 7 miles from Billean, with a similar shoal of 3 fathoms about a mile farther in nearly the same direction; a patch of 3 J fathoms, situated 81° from Billean and 6° 7.75 miles from Lankayan Island ; and Paknam Shoal, with less than 3 fathoms, in latitude 6° 40' north, longitude 117° 56' 45" east. All these shoals are steep-to, but they probably have less water on them. The route marked on the chart has been followed with safety, but in such reef-strewn waters other dangers not charted may exist. Tagipil is a densely wooded and conspicuous small island situated 4.5 miles 218° of Billean Cay; the tops of the trees are 184 feet high. Between Tagipil and Billean are two cays 1.5 miles apart. Banku ru an Cays are two small sand cays covered with trees about 50 feet high. Billean, Tagipil, Banku ru an, and the mainland are almost corrected by a chain or coral reefs. Five miles 155° from Billean is a sand cay, about 4 feet high, standing on a coral reef about half a mile in extent. Marchesa Bay is situated eastward of Simaddel Island, and is comprised between the chain of reefs extending 8 miles east-north- eastward from that island, with Leonan Cay near the extremity, and the chain of reefs just described as extending southwetward from Billean. Between these chains of reefs the bay is from 10 to 12 miles wide, with depths in the entrance of from 11 to 17 fathoms, over mud or mud and shells, decreasing gradually southwestward toward the shore, off which sand and reefs dry from a half to 1.5 miles and to 2.75 miles in the southeastern corner of the bay. In the southwestern part of the bay, between Tanjong Kinulubaltan and Simaddel, is the entrance to the passage leading southward of that island. On the western side of the point the coast trends south- westward for 4.5 miles to the entrance of Sungi (Kiver) Paitan, then westward and northwestward for about 7 miles, forming a bight 3.75 miles deep, in the western part of which is a wooded island 2 miles long north and south and three-quarters of a mile broad ; there are also three small islands in the entrance to the Sungi Paitan. The MAKCHESA BAY LANKAYAN. 429 southern and western parts of this bight have not been sounded. An extensive bank of sandy mud, dry at low water, lies abreast the entrance to the river ; the northern edge of the bank is 1 mile south- ward of the red cliff on Simaddel; the channel leading to the river appears to pass eastward of the bank. A spit projects 2 miles northeastward from Tanjong Kinulubaltan, the outer part of which has 3 feet on it; the inner part dries for 1.25 miles. Beyond this and about 4 miles from the point in the same direction is a horseshoe-shaped bar about 1 mile across, with 2^ fathoms on it, which fronts the entrance to the channel. Within the bar there is a channel about 800 yards in width, with depths of from 4 to 10 fathoms, leading along the southeastern side of Simaddel as far as the red cliff, beyond Avhich it appears to become shoal. South- ward of this channel are shallow banks. Dangers in Marchesa Bay. — A small rocky shoal covered by less than 6 feet water, and with a patch of 4J fathoms seaward of it, is situated 5.75 miles eastward of Tanjong Kinulubaltan and nearly 6 miles 180° from Leonan. A reef, dry at low water, lies 1.3 miles 152°, and three similar reefs trend south westward for a distance of 2.7 miles from the rocky shoal. The innermost of these reefs has a cay on it. Coast.— From Tanjong Kinulubaltan the coast trends southeast- ward 18 miles to Tanjong Siasib, where it turns southward for 11.5 miles to Tanjong Niug, and is wooded with casuarina trees, which in some places form peculiar clumps. Lankayan, about 11 miles 125° from Billean Cay, is a sand cay covered with trees about 100 feet high, and is surrounded by a coral reef, which extends about 1.25 miles southward, three-quarters of a mile northward and eastward, and has a 3J-fathom patch at 600 yards farther in the latter direction. A small detached coral reef lies 1.7 miles north from the cay; at 1,200 yards westward from this reef is a patch of 5 fathoms and at 400 yards northward a patch of 4 fathoms a quarter of a mile in extent. The depths for about 4.25 miles north-northeastward of Lankayan are irregular, there being several patches, each about half a mile in extent, upon which the depths are from 3 to 5 fathoms, with from 12 to 15 fathoms between them. A shoal with about 6 feet water on it lies 314° 1,800 yards from the southwestern extreme of the cay. Shoal ground, with depths of 3^ to 4 fathoms, and 12 fathoms around, extends west-southwestward 2 miles from Lankayan. Beacon. — There is foul rocky ground 1 mile in extent northeast and southwest, with depths of less than 1 fathom lying with its farther extreme 216°, distant 3 miles from Lankayan. A beacon, consisting of a staff and globe painted red and white in vertical 430 ■ PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. strip.es, has been erected 218° 2.1 miles from Lankayan to mark the northeastern edge of the shoal ground. This shoal is a danger situated near the track of vessels passing westward of Lankayan. • Foul ground is charted 1.5 miles eastward of the beacon and 2 miles southward of Lankayan. Four miles westward of Lankayan Island there is a steep-to coral reef about a mile in extent north-northeast and south-southwest, the southern half of which dries. Two shoals, with depths of IJ fathoms and 8 to 10 fathoms around, and together about 1 mile in extent north and sotith, lie with their northern extreme 222°, distant 6.4 miles from Lankayan. Kestrel Shoal, about three-quarters of a mile in extent within the 10-fathom limit, and with a depth of 2 fathoms near its center, is situated 4 miles east of Lankayan. Kechil Keef , a coral patch about 800 yards in length east and west, with a depth of 4^ fathoms and deep water around, lies 54°, 7 miles from Lankayan Island. A patch of 54 fathoms, the existence of which is doubtful, is charted 1 mile south-southeastward of Kechil Eeef . Bo aan, 192 feet high, the northernmost of a chain of islands which run in a north-northeast direction about 14.5 miles from the mainland, is nearly 1 mile in length northeast and southwest; it is surrounded by a coral reef about one-third of a mile wide on the northwestern side, and has its lower parts densely wooded. Si ba ung is a small coral reef lying 275°, distant 4.5 miles from the north part of Bo aan Island. There are a few bushes 35 feet high on this reef. Flying Fish. Rock, of small extent, with deep water around, lies 2.5 miles east of Bo aan Island, and has 2f fathoms on it at low water; another small shoal of 2f fathoms lies about three-quarters of a mile southwestward of Flying Fish Rock, with the summit of Bo aan bearing 284°, distant 2.1 miles. Lihiman lies 2.75 miles south of Bo aan Island, is about two-thirds of a mile in length northeast and southwest, densely wooded, and 172 feet in height. Lihiman Island is surrounded by a coral reef which extends northeastward about two-third's of a mile, and has upon it a small islet 30 feet high. Both Lihiman and Bo aan are mud volcanoes, which appear to have been active within the last few years. Langaan is a small wooded island 120 feet high, situated on the southwest edge of an extensive coral reef, projecting 1.25 miles north- eastward. Eastward of Langaan, on the edge of the reef, is a sand bank 2 feet high. A coral patch, apparently of small extent, having a depth of 4 fathoms and possibly , less, lies 112° 4.5 miles from JOHNSTON ROCK BAGTJAN. 431 Langaan Island and nearly 1. mile north of the 4 fathoms is a patch of 9 fathoms. Johnston Hock, a coral patch of 2| fathoms, situated 58° 2.3 miles from the southeast extreme of Langaan, lies near the middle of shoal ground, with depths under 10 fathoms extending about a mile in an east-northeasterly direction. Great and Little Bakkungaan are two wooded islands, fringed with coral, 190 and 157 feet high lying, respectively, about 1.75 and 3 miles southwestward of Langaan. Detached coral reefs extend from Great Bakkungaan northwest- ward 1.5 miles and westward and eastward to the distance of a mile. A coral patch with 8 feet water over it is reported to exist. in the channel between Great Bakkungaan and Langaan. Silingaan. is a small wooded island, 139 feet high, fringed with coral to the distance of a quarter of a mile, lying 3 miles southward of Lihiman. About 1 mile east of Silingaan is a coral reef, half a mile in extent, on the southeastern edge of which is a sand cay, awash at high water. Gulisaan is a small islet on the south edge of a coral reef three- quarters of a mile in extent east and west and lies about 1.25 miles 193° of Silingaan; on it is a clump of conspicuous trees 76 feet high. Libarran is a wooded island, 140 feet high, nearly 1.5 miles in length east-northeast and west-southwest, lying 3 miles northeast- ward of Tanjong Pandaras and about the same distance within the 5-fathom contour line. From it a coral reef extends eastward 1.25 miles with Black Rock, 8 feet high, near its end and White Rock, 6 feet high, 700 yards southwestward of Black Rock; and also west- ward for two-thirds of a mile, having Round Islet close to its ex- treme. Northwestward 400 yards from Round Islet is a rock that dries 2 feet, and at 800 yards northeastward is Tree Rock, 20 feet high. Clotilde Bock, in latitude 6° 14' north, longitude 118° 23' 15" east, is a small coral reef, part of which stands 2 feet above high water; there are depths of 20 and 23 fathoms of water close-to around it. Laurel Bock is of small extent, stands 6 feet above high water, and is situated in latitude 6° 9' 30" north, longitude 118° 29' east. Baguan is a densely wooded island, 228 feet high, lying 210° 3.5 miles from Laurel Rock. From the north point of it discolored water has been seen to extend a considerable distance in the direction of Laurel Rock ; the passage between Baguan and the rock .should therefore not be taken. Rock reported. — In 1907 the master of the steamship Prog- ress reported that his vessel struck on a pinnacle rock with a depth 432 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. of 3 fathoms over it off the northeast coast of Borneo, at a distance of 2 miles 312° from Baguan Island. Taganak. — This island, 554 feet in height, is rather more than 1 mile in length north-northeast and south-southwest and is sur- rounded by a coral reef to the distance of about 800 yards; it is densely wooded. Strong currents are reported to exist in its vicinity. Taganak patches, of from 5 to 10 fathoms, with greater depths between them, are about 2.5 miles in extent in an east by north and opposite direction and lie with the, central and shoalest part 295° distant 4.25 miles from the southwest end of Taganak Island. This position is occasionally marked by tide ripples. Gubbins Hock is a dangerous patch of coral with about 6 feet water on it and steep-to, lying 143° 7.75 miles from Little Bakkun- gaan. Shoal patches with least depth of 3 fathoms are located 2.5 miles 226° and 3.2 miles 218° from above rock. The position of these, however, is doubtful. Labuk Bay. — Labuk Bay, situated about 20 miles northwestward of Sandakan, is about 19 miles wide between Pulo Pura-'pitra and Tanjong Pandaras, and about 16 miles in depth to Labuk River, in the southwest corner of it. The greater part of the bay is shallow and blocked by numerous sand banks, which render the navigation dangerous even for boats ; but there is a narrow channel on the north- western side leading to the Bongaya River, and one on the south- eastern side affording a passage to Labuk River. The western side of the bay is densely wooded, with numerous creeks ; and the southeast side is fringed by islets and rocks extending some distance offshore. Tanjong Niug is a well-defined point covered with trees, about 150 feet high, just southward of Pulo Pura-pura, on the northwest side of the bay. About 8 miles northwestward of Tanjong Niug are Quoin and Flat Hills, 650 and 630 feet high, respectively. Islets. — ^A chain of islets, of which Torongohok is the northern, lie in the southwestern part of the bay. The northern portion of Torongohok is wooded with casuarina trees about 140 feet in height, forming a prominent object when approaching from the northeast- ward. Pulo Gusong is a small sandy islet about 2 feet in height on the eastern extremity of a large sand bank near the middle of the bay, and, being devoid of trees, is difficult to distinguish. Off Tanjong Pandaras are some low islets, merely clumps of man- groves on the fringing reef ; on Pulo Bankawan or Low Island, the outer one, the trees are 100 feet high. Pulo Tikus is a wooded pyramidal island, 234 feet in height, lying 1 mile westward of Tanjong Pandaras ; about half a mile northward of it there is a small rock nearly awash at high water. LABUK RIVER BAHALA. 433 Labuk River. — ^The mouth of Labuk Eiver, which for a few miles is named the Kolapis Eiver, is 21 miles southwestward of Tanjong Pandaras; the entrance is 1,100 yards wide, with a depth of 5 fathoms. The Bongaya Eiver and several streams of no importance to trade enter the sea in the northwest portion of the bay. Bar. — The best channel to Labuk Eiver is between Libarran Island and the low islets off Tanjong Pandaras; the least water is on the bar between Pulo Gusong and Sungi Gum-gum on the southeastern side of the bay, on which there is a depth of 1^ fathoms. Directions. — From the eastward, having passed Gubbins Eock, course must be shaped to pass between Libarran and the low islands off Tanjong Pandaras, avoiding the rocks which lie off the reef extending about half a mile southward of Libarran Island ; and when Eound Islet (westward of Libarran) is in line with Gulisaan, bearing 58°, course must be altered to 238°. These islets in line astern, lead clear and westward of the islets and rocks off" Tanjong Pandaras, and the same course continued, allowing for tide, leads over the flats, in 1^ fathoms at low-water springs. When the water deepens course may be shaped to pass about three-quarters of a mile westward of Tanjong Semawang, from whence to the mouth of Labuk Eiver there is a depth of from 3J to 5 fathoms. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Labuk Bay at 9h. 30m. during the period of the southwest monsoon in the China Sea; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. The maximum strength of the ebb observed in the river was 3 loiots. In the Labuk Eiver the tide is felt for a distance of about 20 miles from the entrance. Supplies. — There is a village on Pulo Tetabuan and another on the islet close westward of Pulo Linkabo, in the southwestern part of the bay, but no supplies were obtainable, neither was any fresh water met with. The village of Balmoral is shown on the chart within the entrance to the Kolapis Eiver, on the south bank. Coast. — From Tanjong Pandaras the coast takes a southeasterly direction for 16 miles to Sandakan Harbor, and consists of lowLind densely wooded and intersected by numerous streams. Wunuyon Laut and Nunuyon Derat are two low wooded islands lying about 2 miles northwest of Bahala. They are almost connected with the mainland, and are about 3 miles within the 3-f athom contour line. Sahala is an island about 2 miles in length, north and south, with a maximum breadth of 1,200 yards, lying on the northwest side of the entrance to Sandakan Harbor. The northern part of it is low and very narrow, the southern rises in two conspicuous hills, 591 and S49 feet in height. These hills slope gradually to the westward, but their eastern faces are imposing precipices with two light-red streaks 90045—15 ^28 434 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. running perpendicularly from the top to the bottom, by which the island may be recognized. (See view on chart 2795.) Sandakan Harbor— Aspect. — This expansive harbor is 1.25 miles wide at the entrance between Bahala Island and Tanjong Aru, the broad point opposite to the southeast. From here it gradually in- creases in width, forming a spacious basin north of Pulo Bai, more than 3 miles in diameter, which constitutes the usual anchorage. The harbor extends south and west of Pulo Bai to a distance of 15 miles from the entrance, but the only part surveyed is that north of Pulo Bai and Sapa Gaya Bay, situated on the southern shore. From the entrance to the end of Sandakan bay the depths vary from 16 to 3 fathoms. Some 13 rivers run into the bay. The eastern side of the harbor entrance is formed by a large island, low and densely wooded, and separated from the main coast by a channel named Trusan Duyon. From the shore eastward of the en- trance an extensive flat projects seaward, the northern point of which, in a depth of 3 fathoms, lies 8 miles northeast of Tanjong Aru; the 5-fathom limit is 2 miles farther out. The northern shore rises to many summits conspicuous from sea- ward, of which the highest and centermost is Bukit Merkarah (Three-peaked Hill), 850 feet high. These hills slope gradually on their northern and western sides, and are generally steep on their southern and eastern sides. The jail is white with a red roof, and is conspicuous, with two flagstaffs southwest of it. In the center of the town of Sandakan, near the . Government offices, is a conspicuous white clock tower. Bathing is dangerous, as crocodiles abound. Bar. — ^A bar of mud, about 3.25 miles across, within the 5-fathom limits, with a least depth of 3| fathoms, but with 4 fathoms at low water on the course recommended, lies from 6 to 9.5 miles northeast- ward of the south point of Bahala. The British ship Monmouth, di*awing 25 feet, found a least depth of 29 feet on crossing the bar near high-water springs when entering and leaving Sandakan Har- bor March, 1910. Dang'ers. — Atjeh Rock, with 2| fathqms at low water, and the only detached danger off the town of Sandakan, lies 700 yards 110° from the eastern extremity of the Government pier. Buoy. — Atjeh Eock is marked by a red and white vertically striped can buoy, with staff and cage. ' AUard Bank nearly fills the bight between the Government pier and Pavitt Point, leaving a small pocket at its eastern end, where the depth is 2J fathoms at low water. Elton Bank is an extensive area of shallow water extending from the north shore of Pulo Bai for a distance of nearly 2 miles. BORNEO EOCK — SANDAKAN. 435 Beacon. — ^A white tripod beacon, 20 feet high, is erected on a rock 2 feet above high water near the eastern extreme of the rocks border- ing the channel, which extend 400 yards eastward of Pulo Bai. Borneo Bock, beyond which the channel east of Pulo Bai has not been surveyed, has a depth of 4 feet water and lies 1,200 yards 266° from the west extreme of Tighowis Island, in the fairway south- ward from Sandakan Harbor. It is marked by a red can buoy. The best channel is close westward of the rock. Anchorage. — ^The most convenient anchorage is about 1,200 yards southward of the Government pier, in a depth of 8 fathoms, mud. Directions. — ^When in a position about 10 miles northeastward of the entrance to Sandakan bring the cliff on the southeastern side of Bahala to bear 221° and steer for it. This leads over the flats in the approach to Sandakan Harbor in a depth of not less than 4 fathoms and 1.7 miles northwestward of the shoal projection from the southeastern shore. As soon as the bar is crossed and depths of 5i or 6 fathoms obtained alter course a little southward and steer to pass 800 or 1,000 yards eastward of the south end of Bahala and thence to the anchorage, avoiding Atjeh Rock. Sandakan (formerly Elopura) , the principal town and headquar- ters of the North Borneo Co., is built on the north shore of Sandakan Harbor, three-quarters of a mile within Tanjong Papat. The shore between Fort Pryor and the Government pier is fronted by wooden houses buUt on piles, principally consisting of Chinese shops, behind which, on terra firma and on rising ground, are the Government offices, etc. There is an Anglican and a Roman Catholic Church and a Government hospital for Europeans. The population is about 6,000. An American consul and a Ger- man vice consul reside here. Communication. — Frequent communication is kept up between Sandakan and the other ports of North Borneo by small steamers of the Sabah Steamship Co. A North German Lloyd steamer maintains a fortnightly service with Singapore, calling at other North Borneo ports en route, and monthly between Singapore, Sandakan, Darvel, and Sibuko Bays, Sulu, and Samboanga. In 1910 an irregular service to Hongkong was maintained by a North German Lloyd steamer and one belong- iag to Jardine, Mathieson & Co., at about three weeks' interval. Telegraph. — Sandakan is in telegraphic connection with Lahat Datu, Kudat, Jesselton, and Labuan, thence with Hongkong, Singa- pore, and Europe by submarine cables. Pier. — There is a substantial wooden pier, 365 feet long, alongside which the depths are from 19 to 20 feet at low water. It Is the prop- erty of the Government. 436 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. At about 600 yards to the northeastward there is another pier, which extends into a depth of 11 feet at low water. Railway lines are laid along it from the foundry and shipbuilding yard at its inner end. There is a traveling crane to lift 3 tons. Fresh water is laid on in pipes. All vessels carrying goods must load and discharge at the Govern- ment wharf, unless written permission to do so elsewhere has been obtained from the superintendent of customs. Harbor light. — A fixed light is exhibited from a Avooden-pile structure, 28 feet high, situated near the center of the Government pier, which light shows red to the eastward and green to the south- ward and westward. It is generally somewhat difficult to make out. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Sandakan Harbor at noon; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 3-J feet. The tidal streams turn with the times of high and low water by the shore, the ebb attaining a maximum velocity of 2 knots an hour at springs and the flood a maximum velocity of 1| knots at springs. Tide signals. — A cone and ball tide signal is hoisted on a small mast on the center of the Government pier to show the state of the tide to vessels approaching it ; cone, point down, signifies flood tide ; cone, point up, ebb tide ; ball, slack water. Officials and courtesies. — It is not a military port. The gov- ernor, entitled to salute of 17 guns, represents the civil authority. First call is made by visiting men-of-war. The military authority is represented by a major, who is commandant of the constabulary. Trade. — Most of the trade is carried on through Singapore with Europe and Hongkong. The exports comprise mostly jungle produce, cutch, coconuts, timber, sago, tobacco, rattan, and india rubber. The imports include cloth, hardware, manufactured goods of all kinds, rice, oil, sugar, and tinned provisions. Salutes. — It is a saluting port. Salutes should be fired on reach- ing anchorage. Salutes are returned from saluting battery on Bat- tery Hill below flagstaff. Coal. — A wharf has been erected by the Cowie Harbor Coal Co., immediately to the westward of the Government pier previously men- tioned, with a storage capacity of 1,000 tons; a small stock is kept. The wharf, alongside which vessels may berth, has from 14 to 15 feet alongside at low-water springs. Eeclamation was in progress (1910) westward of this pier, where it is intended to maintain a stock of upward of 2,000 tons of coal. Water — Supplies. — ^Water for boilers can be obtained from a hydrant on the Government pier; the charge is 65 cents per ton. Beef, bread, and vegetables can be regularly obtained in small quanti- ties ; fish can be obtained. MALLAWALLE CHANNEL TO SANDAKAN. 437 Repairs, — There is a foundry and shipbuilding yard, and small repairs can be undertaken; there is also a patent slip, 145 feet in length, on blocks, and with lifting power of 400 tons. Lighters up to 100 tons displacement have been built here. Port limits. — The limits of the port are : Sandakan Bay bounded by a line drawn in an eastsoutheasterly direction from north point of Bahala Island to the most easterly extremity of Tanjong Aru, on the south side of the bay, together with the rivers and arms thereof as far as navigable. Directions — Mallawalle Channel to Sandakan. — ^The route now generally used by vessels proceeding to Sandakan is by the Mal- lawalle Channel. The track recommended lies midway between Mallawalle Island and Passage Reef, and passes about 600 yards northward of the cay (awash at low water), situated 2.75 miles eastward of the latter. Hence to Tigabu the track lies either eastward of Kukuban Island and the shoals southeastward of it, or westward of this central group, until 1.5 miles southwestward of Tigabu, when Sipindung Island may be steered for bearing east, until Tigabu northeast extreme is in line with the west extreme of Mallawalle Island. This latter mark leads between the shoals extending to the southward of Sipindung and the shoal water off the northeast edge of the small coral reef situated 1.5 miles southwestward from that island. Another good mark leading through this, the narrowest part of the channel, is^a sand cay, with a few bushes on it, lying 1 mile north- ward of Tigabu Island, in line with the eastern summit of Malla- walle Island 313°, which mark also leads past Sandy Island and between the Leonan Reef and the detached reef northeastward of it marked by a beacon. Billean Island should be rounded at a distance of from 4.5 to 5 miles, and the track then lies between Lankayan Reef and the beacon on the north end of the shoal, about 1.25 miles southwestward of it, passing over or near 4-f athom patches westward of Lankayan. Or vessels could pass southward of the shoal marked by the beacon in apparently better water, but it has not been surveyed in detail. Spe- cial care is required at this part. The track now lies eastward of Si ba ung and of the reef extending 1.25 miles east of Silingaan, and westward of Lihiman, Little Bakkungaan, and the dangerous Gub- bins rock, situated 7.75 miles 133° from the last-mentioned island. Caution. — The route above is marked on the chart, and has been followed with safety, but there may be less water than shown on some of the shoals, and in such reef -strewn water other dangers not charted may exist. 438 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. It should be borne in mind also that no reliance can be placed on the position of sand cays, which have no vegetation on them; the action of the sea frequently causes them to shift considerably and even disappear. The beacons are difficult to make out and are liable to be washed away. Tides and tidal streams. — At Tigabu it is high water, full and change, at llh. 38m.; springs rise 6| feet; neaps 4 feet, but are ex- ceedingly irregular. In the Mallawalle Channel the flood runs to the eastward and the ebb to the, westward at springs with a velocity of about 2| knots. On the coast between Mallawalle and Sandakan no regular tidal stream was perceptible, but when the northeast monsoon blew steadily there appeared to be a constant set to the northwest. Coast. — From Sandakan Harbor the coast trends east-southeast- ward for about 60 miles to Tanjong Unsang, whence it gradually turns southward for about 11 miles to Dent Haven. This coast is very low alluvial land, covered with dense jungle and forest, princi- pally casuarina trees from 150 to 180 feet high, fronted by a narrow, sandy beach. Between Sandakan and Kinabatangan Eiver, situated in an east-southeast direction, the coast is intersected by numerous streams, some of which are said to lead into the river and to be navigable for boats. Landmarks. — About 11 miles eastward of Sandakan there is a conspicuous tree 227 feet high (not distinguishable in 1907), on the eastern point of the entrance to Mamuyon Eiver, and 6 miles farther eastward the Abai Clump, 185 feet high, which from the eastward makes as an island, but is not so easily distinguished from the west- ward. Kinabatangan Hills, 963 feet in height, situated about 10 miles inland, appear from seaward as a long range with a slight peak; view on chart 1728 and view B on chart 2118. Aguja Peak, 638 feet high, from the eastward appears as a double cone. Confu- sion Hill from the northeastward shows a round top. Notch Hill, 803 feet in height, the most conspicuous of the hills in the vicinity of the Kinabatangan Eiver, has a sharp fall near the summit ; view on chart 1728 and view B on chart 2118. Mount Hatton, 1,990 feet in height, situated about 16 miles southeastward from Notch Hill, is the most conspicuous mount on the coast, appearing with a sharp peak from all directions; view on chart 1728 and views A and B on chart 2118. Eagged Hill, 1,455 feet high, about 7 miles westward, makes from the eastward as two cone- shaped hills. Bagahak Mountain, 2,740 feet in height, in the center of a long sloping range, is seen in clear weather beyond Mount Hatton. See view on chart 1728 and views A and B on chart 2118. KINABAa?ANGAN EIVER — SEGAMA EIVBE. 439 Kinabatangan Kiver. — The mouth of the Kinabatangan is 30 miles eastward of Sandakan. Driftwood Point, the east point of entrance, is wooded, and may be distinguished at the distance of 15 miles from the coast, making as a sharp and well-defined point. From the entrance the river trends southwest and then south by west for 5 miles to Dewhurst Bay, which is 3 miles long and 1 mile broad, having depths of from 1 to 2 fathoms. The main branch turns westward at 5 miles from the entrance, from whence it was examined for a distance of 6 miles ; depths of from 1^ to 6 fathoms were found, and the river at this distance was 300 yards wide, with a depth of 2^ fathoms. No villages were seen, and but few boats; no fresh water was obtainable. Bar. — The river between the entrance points is 1,200 yards broad, with depths of from 4 to 5 fathoms ; the bar, which extends 3.5 miles seaward, has a depth of 1^ fathoms at low-water springs. Vessels drawing more than 8 feet should not attempt to cross the bar without a boat ahead, as the tides are much influenced by the winds, rendering the time of high water uncertain. Tides. — See below. Royalist Rock, a coral shoal 800 yards long north-northeast and south-southwest, with a least depth of 6 feet at low-water springs near its southwest end and 18 fathoms around, lies with Driftwood Point, Kinabatangan Eiver, bearing 205°, distant 4.7 miles. Nymphe Reef, about a mile in extent, with a depth of 1 foot at low-water springs, is formed of coral and sand, and lies 1.5 miles, 25°, of Eoyalist Kock, just within the 20-fathom contour line. Patches of 5f and 7 fathoms lie between it and Eoyalist Eock. Being within the limit of discolored water from Kinabatangan Eiver, Nymphe Eeef is seldom seen, but is marked by a slight ripple. It breaks in heavy weather. Clearing marks. — Abai clump, bearing 286°, leads southward of Eoyalist Eock and Nymphe Eeef, and the mouth of Kinabatangan Eiver, bearing 227°, leads eastward of them. Pegasus Reef, situated 14 miles, 58°, from Driftwood Point, nearly 2 miles in length north and south, by 1.5 miles in width, and with a least depth of 3 feet, is composed of live coral with patches of sand. Depths of from 26 to 30 fathoms are found at the distance of 1 mile from the shoal heads. The discolored water on the reef can be made out from the masthead. Segama River.^ — The mouth of the Segama Eiver is 14 miles southeastward of the Kinabatangan, the coast between being covered with jungle, fronted by a belt of grass and bushes; between the entrance points the river is 1,100 yards in width, with a depth of 2i fathoms. From the entrance the river trends, 176°, for about 3 440 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. miles, with an island in it; thence it splits up into several creeks, which are narrow, with depths of from 2 to 3 fathoms. Bar. — The shallow flat fronting the river extends about 3 miles from the coast, the least depth over which, leading to the entrance, is 9 feet at high-water springs. Vessels entering should send a boat ahead, as the tides are irregular. Marowop River. — The mouth of this river, 8.5 miles southeast- ward of the Segama, is 1,400 yards wide, with depths of from 3 to 5 fathoms between the entrance points. Near the eastern entrance point there is a conspicuous tree, which, however, could not be dis- tinguished in 1907. Bar. — There is a depth of If fathoms on the bar at low-water spring tides, but caution is necessary in crossing, as the sea breaks on it with southeast winds. From the entrance the river trends south- ward for 3 miles, to Evans Island, where it divides into numerous branches. Tangusu Bay is a shallow bight southwestward of Tamljisan Island. Bock. — A rock with 4 feet on it at low-water springs, lies nearly 1 mile off the shore reef, with Tambisan Peak bearing 55°, distant 2 miles. Tambisan Island, 3 miles in length east and Avest, by 1.25 miles in breadth, is about 220 feet in height, and covered with trees. The west point is easily distinguished from seaward, but the east point is low; the island is fronted by a coral reef to the distance of three-quarters of a mile. A narrow channel, which is only navigable by small craft, separates the island from the mainland. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, at Kinabatangan River at llh. 17m.; springs rise 5| feet; at Tam- bisan Island, at lOh. 52m. ; springs rise 3^ feet. Between Sandakan and Tambisan the flood stream sets to the northwestward and the ebb to the southeastward; the tidal stream is slight, rarely as much as 1 knot. Between Tambisan and Dent Haven the tidal streams are more strongly marked ; the flood sets to the northward and the ebb to the southward at the rate of from 2 to 3 Icaots per hour. Current. — At the distance of 10 miles from the coast, during the southwest monsoon, the regular southeast current, from 1 to 2 knots an hour, makes itself felt, and the northwesterly (flood) set is not experienced, only a slackening of the current during flood tide. Off-lying banks. — Rene Shoal, composed of coral and sand, is 5.5 miles in length in a northwest and southeast direction, and about 2 miles in breadth within the 20-fathom contour line. From the least depth of 3 fathoms the peak of Tambisan Island bears 227°, distant 4.5 miles. GEM KEEP SENTRY BANK. 441 Gem Reef, situated 3 miles northward of the northwest end of Rene Shoal, is a patch of coral and sand, 3 miles in length, northwest and southeast, and 2 miles in breadth, with a depth of 3 feet near its center. From the shoal heads Tambisan Peak bears 190°, distant about 8.5 miles. Magpie Bank. — This extensive bank of rotten coral lies with its southeastern end about 6 miles northward of Gem Eeef ; within the 20-fathom contour line it is 7 miles in length in a northwest and southeast direction and 2.5 miles wide. With the exception of the western side of the bank, the depths increase suddenly to upward of 100 fathoms. On the western side the 100-f athom line extends about 6 miles westward from the depth of 10 fathoms in the center of the bank. The center of the bank, with a depth of 10 fathoms, lies 359°, distant 17.5 miles from Tambisan Peak. A patch of 11 fathoms lies 3 miles westward, and an isolated patch of 9 fathoms, the least water found on the bank, lies 1.5 miles southwestward of this position. Sunday Bank, lying northeastward of Magpie Bank and distant about 23 miles 4° from Tambisan Peak, is somewhat circular in shape and about 3.5 miles in diameter, northeast and southwest within the 20-fathom contour line. It has depths of from 9 to 14 fathoms upon it and very deep water around. The shoalest part known (9 fathoms, coral bottom) lies near the northwestern edge. Normanby Bank, about 4 miles in length north and south and 1.5 miles in width, within the 10-fathom contour line, has depths of 6 to 10 fathoms, coral, aiid very deep water around, within about half a mile from the edge. The shoalest part lies near the southern end. The depths between this bank and Sunday Bank, 2 miles west- ward, are upward of 100 fathoms. Sentry Bank, of sand and coral, is about 6.5 miles in length north-northwest and south-southeast, and about 4 miles wide within the 20-fathom contour line. It has depths of from 7 to 20 fathoms, the shoalest spot ascertained being about 1 mile within its south- western edge in the position given. The 100-f athom line is within half a mile of the western and south- western edges of the bank, within 1.5 miles of the eastern edge, but has not been defined toward the north. Currents. — ^During the two days that the Egeria was at anchor on Sentry Bank (in the month of August) the current was observed to set almost constantly between northeast and southeast, varying from three-tenths of a knot to 1^ knots an hour, but the tidal streams appeared to exercise a decided influence on the strength and direc- tion of the current. Tidal streams. — The flood stream was observed to set to the south and the ebb to the north. 442 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Talamtan Sauk, lying about 7 miles to eastward of Sentry Bank, is described in Philippine Island Sailing Directions, Sections VI and VII. Coast.— From Tambisan Island the coast trends east-southeast for 3.5 miles to Tanjong Unsang, where it turns gradually to the southward for 11 miles to Dent Haven. It is low, covered with swamp and dense jungle, and fronted by a narrow fringe of coral, which is steep-to. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Tanjong Unsang at 8h. Om. ; springs rise 3| f eet._ Dent Haven is nearly 2 miles wide between Reef and Mangrove Points, and affords good anchorage in the southwest monsoon, in about 3^ to 4 fathoms, sand and mud; but a slight swell sometimes sets into the bay. The southern part of the bay, near the Mangrove Islands, is foul. Three brackish streams run into Dent Haven. The two northern are dry across their entrances at low water. In the southern stream boats can find good shelter inside the spit in deep water, the entrance being through a narrow channel in the reef. The whole coast line is but the barrier of a great swamp filled with trees, mostly dead or blasted. Mangrove Point, the southern entrance point of the haven, is the northern end of a mangrove-covered island lying close to the land and fringed on its northern and eastern sides by a narrow reef. Banks. — ^Reef Point, the northern point of the haven, is foul for 135 yards from the shore, and a sand bank awash at low water lies 600 yards northeastward from the point. To the northward of Reef Point, within the 5-f athom line, which extends to a distance of from 1,200 to 1,400 yards from the shore, the soundings are very irregular. Hull Rock, situated 1.6 miles 70° from Reef Point, has only 4 feet of water over it and breaks "at times. It is on a long narrow bank of hard sand, with from 1 to 5 fathoms on it, which stretches nearly 1.25 miles northward and 1 mile southward from the rock. Between the shore bank and the northern tongue of Hull Rock Bank there is a channel half a mile wide with 6 to 7 fathoms, but it is obstructed by a sandy patch about 200 yards in diameter and covered by 3 to 3^ fathoms water. This channel is not recommended. A small patch of 4J fathoms, with depths of 6 to 9 fathoms around, lies 1,200 yards 255° from Hull Rock. Hardy Patch, a narrow coral shoal 300 yards in extent, with a least depth of 3 fathoms on it and 6^ to 10 fathoms around, lies in the approach to Dent Haven; from it Mangrove Point bears 252°, distant 2.2 miles. The shoal is marked by strong tide rips over it, and the water about it is usually discolored. This shoal constitutes a danger to ships passing Dent Haven at night or in thick weather, but it may be avoided by keeping outside M'^'^-' DENT HAVEN. 443 the 20-fathom contour line, which passes about 1.25 miles eastward of it. Anchorage. — Between Eeef Point and Mangrove Point the gen- eral depth is from 3| to 4^ fathoms over a sand and mud bottom, the deeper water and less irregularity of bottom being found in the northern part of the bay. There are two patches of 2| and 3 fath- oms 13° of Mangrove Point situated, respectively, 800 and 1,600 yards from that point. Directions. — Coming from the northward, to avoid Hull Rock and Bank, the extreme point southward of Dent Haven should not be brought to the southward of 216° until the southern end of the long sandy beach in the bay bears 255°, when it may be steered for, anchoring as convenient. Supplies. — There is no village in Dent Haven, but natives occa- sionally visit the place. Fish may be obtained with the seine near the beach southward of the southern stream. Bathing is dangerous on account of alligators. Tides. — It is high water, full and change (August), at Dent Haven at 6h. 34m. ; springs rise 3J feet. Tidal streams. — Between Dent Haven and Tanjong Labian the streams run strongly, from 1^ to 3 knots at times, flood to the south and ebb to the north, but the tidal streams are extremely variable in strength hereabouts, and there is no certainty as to their direction. Occasionally the stream was observed to run strongly in one direction for one or two days and then in the opposite direction for a day, for no reason that could be assigned. At other times the streams changed approximately at high and low water by the shore. Farther westward on the north shore of Darvel Bay the tidal streams are weaker and run about 1 knot per hour at springs, flood to the westward and ebb to the eastward. In Dent Haven the tidal stream begins to set to the northward 3 hours before high water and to the southward 3 hours before low water. It appears probable that this is an eddy. Coast. — From Dent Haven the coast curves very gradually for 7 miles to the southward and southwestward, forming, however, a definite point at Tanjong Labian. In the vicinity of Dent Haven the coast is swampy and fringed by mangroves, but as it curves to the southward and westward the swamp gives way to a hard sand beach closely backed by jungle, through which, however, it is not difficult to force one's way, and there are along this coast occasional comparatively open spaces where deer may frequently be found. Several small streams fimd their way to the coast, but there are no rivers. Tide rips. — From Gem Eeef to Sibutu Passage frequent and sharply defiined tide rips occur, which have the appearance of shoal water. 444 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Sibutu Passage separates the Borneo Islands from the Sulu Archipelago. It is a safe and deep channel, 17 miles wide between Sibutu and Simonor Islands, the shore on either side being steep-to. Tides and tidal streams. — When navigating this passage great attention must be paid to the tides, which run with a velocity of 2 to 4 knots. The times of high water at Sibutu Island, Dent Haven, Port Bongao, Pearl Bank, Dok kan, and Kagayan Sulu are from 6h. to 6h. 50m., and the streams run for 3 hours after high and low water; but it must be borne in mind that the times of high water at Tambisan and on the Borneo coast to the northward are from lOh. 52m. to 12h., and that the streams are weaker than in the offing. It is high water, full and change, at Sibutu at 6h. 50m. ; springs rise 5 feet. The officers of the British ship Nassau remarked during the survey in 1872 that the tidal streams in the main channel were very steady in direction, the flood stream setting northwest and ebb to south, but there was uncertainty as to duration, the streams occasionally running as much as 10 hours at a time, probably influenced by the winds and also by changes in the moon's declination, as with the tides on the south coast of Mindanao. (See Chapter I.) In the channel west of Sibutu Island the officers of the British ship Egeria in 1892 observed the flood stream to set to the south and the ebb to the north, with a velocity of from 3 to 4 knots an hour, and the streams to turn with high and low water by the shore. Sibutu Islands and Reefs lie directly on the route between Dent Haven and Sibuko Bay. The channel between their northern limits and the southern shore of Tanjong Labian, 16 miles in width, forms the main approach to Darvel Bay from the northward and eastward. Navigation amongst these reefs is rendered easy by the help of the islets, which are readily distinguished and are conveniently situated for fixing a ship's position. Channels. — The channel on the western side of Meridian and Frances Eeefs, and eastward of Blake Reef, Payne Rock, and James Patch, is convenient as affording anchorage in every part. The only narrow part of it is when passing Maranas Islet, which may be passed on either, side, and no special directions are necessary. The channel, westward of the line joining Blake Reef and Payne Rock and eastward of Riddells Reef, is 2.75 miles wide at its nar- rowest part between Blake Reef and Siluag Islet. It is perhaps the most convenient to use generally, being more direct than those far- ther to the eastward, whilst the tidal streams do not attain the same strength as in the channels to the westward. The channel, west of Siluag Islet and Riddells Reef and east of Bajapa Reef, is 8 miles long, with a minimum breadth of 1.5 miles. SIBUTIT ISLAND OMAPUI ISLET. 445 The tidal streams run here with great strength, and they should be well considered before using this route. The channel between Bajapa Reef and Alice Reef is about 6 miles long and 1.5 miles wide between the steep edges of the reefs on either side. The tidal streams run straight through the channel with con- siderable strength. The last three channels are too deep for an- chorage. Along the southern eage of the bank on which these reefs stand a rim of lesser depths runs close within and parallel to the 100-fathom contour line, but no depths less than 17 to 20 fathoms have been found on this rim. The edge falls steeply to great depths and is clearly marked by tide rips and overfalls, which give the appearance at times of shoal water- Sibutu Island runs nearly north and south, and is 16 miles in length, with a breadth of 2.5 miles in the middle, narrowing slightly toward the extremities. The eastern coast is slightly convex and the western coast concave. With the exception of Sibutu Peak, a conical hill, 600 feet high, on the east coast in the position given, the island is flat and densely wooded with trees, whose tops are elevated about 100 feet above the sea. The coast line is mostly a low cliff of upraised coral, broken here and there by a sandy beach. A narrow reef fringes the coast on both sides and to the northward, but from the south point the reef extends southward for 4.5 miles, with a breadth of 2.5 miles, inclosing a shal- low lagoon 6 miles in length, lying close to the southeast coast, but with no apparent entrance. The reef dries in patches at low water, and near the southern end there is a sand bank with a wooded islet on it, the trees upon which reach a height of 120 feet. There are also two other small islets on the sand bank. The fringing reef is steep-to aroimd and there is no anchorage. On the western shore, at 4.5 miles from the northern point, there is a village with a small wooden pier. Sibutu Island belongs to the T7nited States, ceded by Spain by treaty, 1898. Omapui, Sipankot, and Tumindao are a chain of low flat- topped wooded islets, on a reef 27 miles in length and 8 miles wide, lying 2 to 3 miles west of Sibutu Island and parallel to it. Tumin- dao, the largest of these islets, is 7 mUes long, north and south, with a maximum breadth of 1.5 miles, and like the other islets is wooded and of uniform height, the tops of the trees being from 130 to 190 feet high. A chain of small wooded islets and rocks stretches for 3.5 miles south of Tumindao. Sitanki, the first islet southward of Tumindao, is very small, but is of some importance, as most of the 446 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENBO. trade between Borneo and the-Bongao district centers there^ It is inaccessible, except by small boats at high water. Though it is stated that there are few permanent inhabitants on any of these islands, they are much frequented by fishermen from Simonor and Borneo for trepang, which is found in great profusion on the reefs to the westward. The natives report that wild cattle are very numerous in Sibutu and that Omapui abounds with wild pigs. From the northeast point of Omapui, the northernmost of these islets, the reef trends northwestward for 2 miles, and then south- westward for a distance of 4 miles to the entrance of a large lagoon which extends 10 miles in a north-northeast and opposite direction, and affords access to the western shore of Tumindao, where there is a village. This lagoon has not been examined in detail, but it appears to be fairly clear of coral patches and to have a general depth of 7 to 10 fathoms. The entrance, which appears to have a depth of 5 fath- oms, is considerably narrowed by obstructions, but in case of neces- sity a vessel could doubtless enter the lagoon with a favorable light and a boat ahead. From the lagoon entrance the western edge of the reef trends southward for 23 miles, with no break in its continuity except two narrow channels into a lagoon near the south end of the reef. This southern lagoon has depths of 8 to 11 fathoms and a narrow opening to the eastward, in which the depth is 4 fathoms. The lagoon is divided into two basins, joined by a narrow 10-fathom channel. The eastern basin affords good anchorage. The western channel has a depth of 6 fathoms and is 500 yards wide. The southwestern channel is shoal. The edge of the reef is everywhere very steep, except off the north- west point, near the lagoon entrance, where the 10-fathom line is dis- tant nearly three-quarters of a mile. The channel between Sibutu to the eastward and Omapui, Sipankot, and Tumindao is from 1.5 to 2 miles, wide, but the tidal streams run from 2 to 4 knots at springs, flood to the southward and ebb to the northward. (See also above.) Andulinang Islet, lying 11.5 miles 228° from the northwest point of Omapui, is small and wooded, with a conspicuous tree on its summit 110 feet high, and a rock about 30 feet high close to and immediately to the north of it. The islet is situated close to the western edge and nearly 3 miles from the south end of a pear-shaped reef 6 miles in length north and south and 1.5 miles wide for the southern half, tapering to half a mile in width at the northern end. The reef dries in patches at low water, and has on it near the northern end two sand cays drying 3 feet. PTJEDIB PATCHES^ BULU BULU ISLET. 447 Purdie Patches are a series of small detached sand and coral shoals, with 7 to 9 fathoms water over them, lying off the north end of the above reef and 3.5 to 5.5 miles 13° from Andulinang Islet. Chambers Knoll, situated 3.6 miles northwest from Andulinang Islet, is a small detached coral knoll with 9 fathoms water on it. Maranas Islet, lying 2.75 miles 193° from Andulinang Islet, is small and wooded, the tops of the trees being 85 feet above the sea. It stands on a reef that projects about half a mile from the islet; the edges of the reef are steep, and there is a clear channel half a mile wide between it and Andulinang Islet Reef. Meridian Reef, separated from the southern end of Andulinang Eeef by a channel half a mile wide and 7 fathoms deep, stretches southward for 12 miles with an average width of 1 mile. A sand cay that dries 4 feet at low water lies near its southern end. The western side of this reef runs off shoal for upward of half a mile from the edge for the greater part of its length and then drops down into 10 fathoms. Middle Reef, lying half a mile southward of Meridian Eeef, is 2.5 miles in length, north and south ; a sand cay lies near its northern extremity. The channel between Meridian and Middle Reefs has a depth of 7 to 9 fathoms in the center, but is too much narrowed by the shoal water running off the reefs on either side to admit of a ship using it with safety, as the tides run through it with great strength. Anchorage. — A ledge of 8 to 12 fathoms extends three-quarters of a mile from the eastern side of Middle Eeef, falling steeply into deep water. The tides run strongly here, but it nevertheless affords an anchorage. Frances Reef, immediately to the southward of Middle Reef, is the southernmost of the chain of reefs extending from Andulinang Islet ; it is 4.75 miles in length, northeast by north and southwest by south. The eastern side of Frances Eeef is quite steep ; the western side, on which there is a long sand cay dry at low water, shoals gradually. Middle and Frances Eeefs are connected by reef with 1 fathom over it. Blake Reef, westward of Maranas Islet, is 2.75 miles in length, north and south, by 1 mile in width ; the channel between Blake and Maranas Eeefs is two-thirds of a mile wide. Bulu Bulu Islet, situated 3.75 miles south-southwestward from Maranas Islet, is small and wooded, showing a well-defined summit over the center 105 feet high to the top of the trees. The islet is surrounded by a reef to a distance of about 400 yards; a small coral patch of 7 fathoms lies three-quarters of a mile northwest from it. 448 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Payne Rock, awash at low water, is nearly in the center of a narrow shoal of sand and coral, three-quarters of a mile in length, north and south, with depths of 3 to 5 fathoms over it, and lies 6.75 miles south from Bulu Bulu Islet. James Patch is a small coral patch with 7 fathoms on it and deep water around, lying 3 miles southward of Payne Eock ; there is an 8-fathom patch 1 mile northwestAvard of it. Siluag Islet, one-third of a mile in length, lying 6.75 miles 244° from Andulinang Islet, is wooded and flat topped, the tops of the trees being 85 feet high. A sand cay that dries 3 feet stands on the narrow fringing reef close to and immediately north of the islet. Riddells Reef, the north end of which lies 4.5 miles south of Siluag Islet, is a narrow coral reef 2.75 miles in length north and south, with two sand cays that dry at low water near its southern end. Neatly midway and exactly in the line between Siluag Islet and Eiddells Eeef there are two coral shoals; the northern of these has 5 fathoms on it at 2 miles south of Siluag Islet; the other, a mile farther south, or 1.3 miles from Eiddells Eeef, has a depth of 3J fathoms. Bajapa Reef, thfe northeastern end of which lies 2 miles 295° from Siluag Islet, is 8.75 miles in length in a north-northeast and south-southwest direction, and 1.5 miles wide in the middle. It dries in patches at low water and incloses a lagoon in the center, the entrance to which is on the southwest side. This reef is steep-to except at the north end, where shoal water extends for a short distance. Alice Reef, to the northwestward of Bajajja Eeef, is 5.75 miles in length north-northeast and south-soiithwest, with a width of about 1.5 miles in the middle; it is steep-to around, except off the northeast point, from which the 5-fathom line lies at a distance of over half a mile. Panguan Islet is a small wooded islet, 75 feet high, standing on the southern side of a narrow steep reef which projects one-third of a mile to the northward of the islet. It lies about 1 mile westward of the south part of Alice Eeef. Alice Channel is the deep channel between Panguan Islet and Bajapa Eeef to the northeast, and Mataking Islets and Eeef to the southwest ; it is over 6 miles in width at the narrowest part between the south point of Bajapa Eeef and Mataldng Islet. Bank. — A bank of coral and sand is situated on the eastern side of Alice Channel with Boheian Island bearing 253°, distant 8.3 miles. It is about 400 yards long north and south and 300 yards broad within the 10-fathom contour, and has a least depth of 6J DABVEL BAY. 449 fathoms at its northern end. At about 200 yards south-southwest- ward is another bank about 300 yards in length, with 8^ fathoms on it and from 12 to 18 fathoms between them. The islands to the westward of Alice Channel will be described after Darvel Bay. Tides and tidal streams. — ^It is high water in Alice Channel, at full and change, at 6h. 20m. The tidal streams run strongly, especially in the vicinity of Panguan Islet and Bajapa Eeef, flood to the southward and westward, and ebb to the northward and east- ward, with a velocity of 2 to 2^ knots. It is high water, full and change, at Sibutu Island at 6h. 50m.; springs rise 5 feet. In the channel west of Sibutu Island, and also in the channel east of Meridian Reef, the streams run from 2 to 4 knots. The streams change approximately at high and low water by the shore. On the edge of the bank southwest of Frances Eeef there are strong tide rips and overfalls; the flood stream runs here with ex- ceptional strength, frequently as much as 3 knots, and sets to the southward and southeastward over the edge of the bank. Darvel Bay, on the south side of Unsang Peninsula, penetrates about 65 miles to the westward from Tanjong Labian. The north shore of the bay is clear of outlying reefs, except Howard Shoal, but the west and south shores have numerous islands and coral reefs off them; a detailed description of these will follow. Numerous rivers discharge into the bay, but very few are navigable for boats beyond a short distance from their mouths The hills on the north side are densely wooded and, for the most part, low and undulating, of uniform outline, presenting few definite features, and culminate in the Bagahak Range midway along the coast. The south coast is also everywhere thickly wooded, with moun- tainous ranges standing some little distance back from the coast, but these are generally more remarkable in shape and more easily recog- nizable than those on the north shore. Most conspicuous among them may be mentioned Mounts Madai and Sinalong, and on a clear day Mount Silam, at the head of the bay, overtops all others in the vicinity. Of the islands in the bay, Timbu Mata Island, separated from the mainland by only a narrow chaimel, is much the largest, and its sharp summit is an excellent landmark. Pulo Gaia, just within the entrance to the bay, stands well out from the land, and is of so remarkable a shape from most points of view that it is quite unmis- takable. On the coasts of the bay there are but few inhabitants. A few villages are seen on the north shore, but none on the mainland on the 90045—15 ^29 450 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. south side. The only islands that are inhabited are Larapan, Tata- gan, Bum Bum, Omadal, and Danawan. These natives are descend- ants of the pirates that formerly infested these waters ; they cultivate very little land and subsist principally on fish. The languages spoken among them are Malay and Sulu. The company appoints a native chief and pays him a regular salary ; through him dealings with the natives are carried on. The chief at present resides on Tatagan Island. The British North Borneo Co. have settlements at Lahat Datu on the north coast and at Simporna in the Tando Bulong Channel on the south side. The Government resident resides at Lahat Datu, and a detachment of constabulary is stationed there. Winds and weather. — The following remarks are by the officers of the British ship Egeria during the survey in 1891 and 1892 : March was a very dry month, with light winds principally from northwest to northeast, and a considerable proportion of calms. April in 1891 was also a very dry month, but in 1892 it was exceptionally wet, rain falling nearly every day, and several thunderstorms were experienced. The winds in both years were light, principally from northwest, with an increas- ing proportion from between northeast and southeast, the easterly winds usually setting in durihg the forenoon or afternoon, but always quite light. The tem- perature of the sea was distinctly higher this month than at any other time in 1891. , In May the winds blew very fairly from all quarters, but with a preponderance from between the north and northwest and also from between- northeast and south, westerly winds beginning to be noticeable. The thermometer stood higher than in March and April, but with a cloudy sky thq heat was not so oppressive. In 1891 more rain was experienced in May than in the previous month. In June, easterly, southerly, and southwesterly winds prevailed, but were light ; there was a decided increase in the amount of rain. In July, southwesterly and northwesterly winds increased markedly both in frequency and force, with an occasional squall from the north, force 5, accom- pnnied by heavy rain lasting for about an hour. Rainfall about the same as last month. In August the winds were light, principally from northwest, but with a con- siderable proportion from south and southeast ; an afternoon squall of wind and rain from the south or southwest, force 3 to 5, was a frequent occurrence. Rain- fall diminishing ; temperature also showing a slight decrease. The barometer during the whole period from March to August varied but little, never rising above 30.06 or falling below 29.84. Tidal streams. — ^The general set of the flood stream is to the southward and westward, and of the ebb to the northward and east- ward, these directions being modified by the trend of the land and reefs ia particular localities. Along the northern shore of Darvel Bay the flood stream sets west- ward and the ebb eastward, about 1 loiot per hour at springs. Along the southern shore of the bay the flood stream runs to the westward and the ebb eastward and northeastward, the direction being modi- fied by the land ; the strength is not very great. TAN JONG LABIAN TTJNKU POINT. 451 The tidal streams appear to turn approximately at the times of high and low water by the shore. Coast.^Tanjong Labian, the northeast point of Darvel Bay, is low and difficult to locate precisely from seaward. From this point the sand|y beach trends southwest by west for 4 miles to a rounded point conspicuous by the high casuarina trees immediately behind it ; from thence it takes a west-southwesterly direction for 7.5 miles to another rounded point also remarkable for its high trees, and close to the westward of which is the entrance to the Teloh Sibet, a small river the mouth of which dries across at low water and is marked by nipa palms. At about 1 mile westward of the river entrance is a red cliff 80 feet high. Between this last point and Tunku Point, 11.5 miles farther west- ward, the coast forms a slight indentation, at the head of which is the village of Tolibas and another scattered village; Tolibas village is at the mouth of a small stream, the entrance to which for boats is marked by stakes. Aspect. — Between Tanjong Labian and Tunku Point the land rises gradually from the low sandy coast to a wooded ridge 400 to 500 feet in height at a distance of about 1.5 miles from the coast. There is nothing remarkable in this ridge, and a uniformly flat densely wooded country forms the eastern portion of Tanjong Un- sang Peninsula. At 3 miles behind Dent Haven there appears to be a range of wooded hills 400 to 500 feet in height which show on the sky line, but the only hill that can be identified is a wooded summit 500 feet high 3.25 miles southwestward of Dent Haven. Mount Bagahak, 2,740 feet in height, situated 7 miles west-north- west from Tunku Point, is the summit of the mountainous range on the north shore of Darvel Bay. It falls steeply to the northward and eastward and is prominent as a distinct peak from those directionSj but is frequently obscured by clouds. Mount Bagahak slopes very gradually to the southward and westward, and thence shows as a smooth-topped range with no prominent features on it. Falling to the northward to quite a low watershed, the ridge rises again to a rounded apex 1,740 feet in height at 5.5 miles north-north- east from Mount Bagahak, and continuing for 6 miles northeastward it then gradually diminishes in altitude, terminating in End Hilly 1,400 feet high, from which it slopes gradually down and loses itself finally in the flat wooded country behind Tanjong Labian. Tunku Point is low and rounded and lies 19°, distant 24 mUes from the summit of Pulo Gaia. Westward of the point the land rises to the Bagahak Range, the spurs from which run down in steep slopes to the coast. Northward of Tunlm Point there is a well- defined ridge of undulating hills from 400 to 575 feet high, standing 452 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. from 1 to 2 miles back from the coast. Tunku River, which has its rise 12 miles northM^ard of Tunku Point, flows through a gap in these hills and enters the bay close to the westward of the point. The entrance has only 1 to 2 feet of water on the bar at low water. A vil- lage stands on the eastern bank of the river about three-quarters of a mile within the entrance. Caution. — A mud flat that dries projects nearly half a mile from Tunlm Point and shoal water extends a quarter of a mile farther, dropping very suddenly down into 14 fathoms. The edge of the shoal does not always show clearly on account of the general dis- coloration of the water by the Tunku Eiver. As the marks for fixing the position are distant, Tunku Point should not be rounded closely and vessels should keep outside the 20-fathoms contour line when passing it. The 10-fathoms line lies at a distance of 1.76 miles from the coast off the casuarina point 4 miles west-southwest of Tanjong Labian, from whence it gradually approaches the coast to half that distance off the villages. From the regularity of the soundings the indications of the lead serve as a reliable guide in navigating this coast at night or in thick weather, but care should be taken not to shoal the water under 10 f a;thoms westward of Tanjong Labian nor under 20 fathoms to the northeastward of it. Bagahak Point, about 13 miles westward of Tunku Point, is itself a low mangrove point, but a spur of the Bagahak Eange, 520 feet high, runs down in a southerly direction to within a short dis- tance of it. This spur is a prominent feature when seen from east- ward or westward, and a summit on it, 950 feet high, about 1 mile inland, forms a landmark easily identified from those directions, but not from the southward, as it is backed by the higher land. (See view B, on chart 2116.) For a distance of 4 miles to the eastward and 2 miles to the west- ward of Bagahak Point the coast is fringed by coral reefs about three-quarters of a mile in width, in which there are three narrow channels leading to the shore, with depths of from 5 to 10 fathoms. The edges of these reefs are steep-to. Howard Shoal, lying 2 miles south of Bagahak Point, is the only outlying danger off the northeastern coast of Darvel Bay. It is a narrow coral shoal, with a least depth of 2J fathoms, 600 yards in length in an east-southeast and opposite direction within the 5-fathom limit, rising abruptly from depths of over 20 fathoms. Tnrner Patch is a small coral shoal, with 9 fathoms (and possibly less) on it, standing on the edge of the 20-f athom contour line at the distance of 1.25 miles from the coast and 4.4 miles 84° from Shoal Point. KENNEDY BAY SEGANNEX EIVER. 453 Kennedy Bay has not been minutely examined, but it appears to afford good anchorage in 10 fathoms, mud, at the distance of two-thirds of a mile from its head. A horn of reef projects nearlj half a mile southward from the northeastern point of the bay, and a shallow broad flat extends 1.75 miles southeastward from the western side. Kennedy bay may be entered by bringing the summit of the south- westernmost coast hill, 335 feet high, to bear 309°, which bearing will also lead half a mile southwestward of Turner Patch ; anchorage in a depth of 10 fathoms may be had when Shoal Point bears 235°, with the western extreme of Tabauwan Island just open to the southward of it. Darvel Peninsula, the southern face of which is 3 miles long east and west, is low and flat, fronted by mud flats and covered by trees, their tops being from 100 to 120 feet high. Deep mangrove creeks intersect the peninsula; none of these, however, were found actually to connect with the Silibukan River. Shoal Point is the southeastern extremity of Darvel Peninsula; shallow water extends 2.5 miles eastward from the point, forming the shallow flat in Kennedy Bay already mentioned, and also south- ward of the peninsula to a distance of nearly 1 mile. The depth decreases very suddenly from 10 to 3 fathoms southeastward of the point, and vessels passing should keep a good offing, as the lead gives but little warning. Tanjong Malandong is the southwest point of the Darvel Peninsula. Beacon. — Armstrong Reef, a small coral reef, drying 5 feet at low water, with depths of 6 to 7 fathoms around it, lies 2.25 miles 286° from Tanjong Malandong. A wooden beacon with white tri- angle topmark marks its western extreme. Clearing mark. — The summit of Adal Island in line with the southwestern peak of Mount Sidongal, bearing 153°, leads 1,200 yards westward of Armstrong Reef and half a mile westward of the edge of the shoal spit off the entrance to Segannen River. Segannen and Silibukan Rivers converge at 1.25 miles within their common entrance on the northwest side of Darvel Peninsula. This entrance is nearly half a mile wide at the mouth and may be recognized by a clump of trees 130 feet high on the northern point, somewhat higher than the dead level of the trees in the immediate neighborhood. A shoal spit extends 1.5 miles westward from the entrance to these rivers. The deepest water over the bar is 4 feet at low-water springs, with the northern summit of Mount Silam in line Avith the summit of Sakar Island, bearing west. On passing the fishing stakes and steering for the northern entrance point the water deepens to 8 and 454 PALAWA^r ISLAND AND BORNEO. 10 feet at 200 yards southward of that point. Mud Hats stretch off the southern entrance point, which should therefore be avoided. The northern and western edges of the above-mentioned spit are very steep, falling down abruptly from 3 feet to 11 fathoms; the lead, therefore, en passing it is but little guide, and strict attention should therefore be paid to the clearing mark given above. Segannen, the northern river, was explored by the boats of the Egeria as far as the Segannen tobacco estate, about 3 miles up the river, where there is a jetty for landing and a road leading from it to the estate. Silibukan, the southern river, was also examined as far as the tobacco estate lately opened at Telok Bukan, 4 miles from the junc- tion of the rivers. At the estate the river is about 20 yards in width, with a depth of 6 feet, but the level varies with the seasons. A small steam vessel from Sandakan visits these estates fortnightly. Topography. — Westward of the Bagahak Eange there is a con- siderable area of apparently flat country drained by the Silibukan Elver. At 8.5 miles northward of Darvel Peninsula a ridge running north and south rises to a summit 995 feet high, which is readily distinguished. Westward of this ridge and separated from it by a valley the land gradually rises from the coast to a perfectly flat- topped, densely wooded ridge about 600 feet in height, and lying 3 miles from the coast; the top of this ridge forms the sky line as viewed from the sea. Coast. — From the entrance of the above rivers the coast curves round in a northerly and westerly direction to the settlement of Lahat Datu, 8 miles distant. Detached reefs and foul ground extend off the greater portion of this coast to a distance of nearly a mile from the shore. From Lahat Datu a mangrove coast trends to the southward for 3 miles to the boat passage between Sakar Island and the mainland. Sakar Island is only separated from the mainland to the west- ward by a narrow channel and is not recognizable as an island. It is 5 miles long east-northeast and west-southwest, with an extreme breadth of 2 miles, densely wooded, and rises near the center in a conspicuous knob to a height of 735 feet, visible over Darvel Penin- sula. The southern shore is straight, but the north coast is deeply indented, narrowing the island in two places to a width of half a mile, and there are some small islets close to the shore on that side. The northeastern extreme of Sakar Island runs down to a low mangrove point, from which a reef projects eastward for three- quarters of a mile. Three wooden beacons with white diamond top marks are placed on the eastern edge of the reef to mark it, but they are liable to be washed away. The edge is not always easily distin- guished, and it should be rounded with caution. VOORWYK REEFS HALLOKAK' KEEF. 455 Sakar Island forms the southern side of a bay, at the head of which are the settlement and anchorage of Lahat Datu ; the reefs in the approach to that place will now be described. Clearing mark.— The summit of Adal Island in line with the southwestern peak of Mount Sidongal, bearing 153°, just clears the edge of the reef off the northeastern extreme of Sakar Island, and Adal Island must be brought to the westward of this peak before rounding the reef. Both Adal Island and the southwest peak of Mount Sidongal show as sharp, well-defined summits. Dangers — Beacons. — Voorwyk Reefs are a chain of four small reefs extending from half a mile to 1.5 miles in a 129° direc- tion from the pier at Lahat Datu. They dry 2 feet at low water and are fairly steep-to, with a depth of T fathoms close-to, but shoal water extends for a short distance to the southward of the south- easternmost reef. The northern reef is marked by a beacon on the east and west extremes; the largest reef has three beacons on it at the eastern, southern, and western points, the two latter being red. The southern reef has a beacon with white diamond top mark on its east and west extremes. A circular coral patch about 30 yards in diameter, with -4 feet over it and a depth of 6 fathoms close around, lies midway between the northwest Voorwyk Eeef and the shore to the northward of it. A beacon marks the edge of the shore reef two-thirds of a mile eastward of the pierhead. Gray Heef is a small coral reef 800 yards south of the pier, with a depth of 3 to 3^ fathoms close to its eastern edge. Another small reef lies one-third of a mile to the southward of it. Both of these reefs are marked by white beacons on their eastern edges. Halloran Reef, lying 800 yards off the center of the north coast of Sakar Island and 1.5 miles west-northwest from the northeast point of that island, is a small coral reef drying 5 feet at low water ; shoal water extends for a short distance off its northeast side and is marked by a wooden beacon with white diamond top mark. Clearing mark. — The western extreme of Darvel Peninsula, just touching the eastern extreme of Sakar Island, 124°, leads a qviarter of a mile northeast of Halloran Eeef. The beacons in Lahat Datu consist of tripods surmounted by large wooden top marks, which are, when situated on detached dangers on the eastern side of the channel, painted red, and on the western side of the channel, white. They are liable to be washed away. Anchorage. — The anchorage at Lahat Datu is between Gray Eeef and the northernmost Voorwyk reef, in a depth of 5 fathoms, 456 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. mud, with the pierhead bearing 327°, and a remarkable conical hill 580 feet high on the western shore of the bay bearing 255°. Directions for Lahat Datu. — From a position not less than 1.5 miles southward of Darvel Peninsula a vessel should steer to the west- ward until the summit of Adal Island comes in line with the south- west peak of Mount Sidongal, bearing 153°, then keep that mark on astern until Mount Silam is in line with the summit of Sakar Island, when haul to the northward and bring the eastern extreme of Adal Island in line with the southwest peak of Mount Sidongal in order to clear the reef projecting from Sakar Island. Having passed that reef, haul northwestward, and when the re- markable conical hill on the west side of the bay bears 272°, steer for it until the southwest extreme of Darvel Peninsula touches the east end of Sakar Island ;, then steer 295° until the pierhead bears 327° and the pierhead steered for on that bearing will lead up to the anchorage between Voorwyk and Gray Eeefs in a depth of 5 fathoms, mud. Boat channel. — ^The channel westward of Sakar Island is less than 200 yards wide in places, with a depth of 3 to 4 feet at low water. Steam launches can use this channel at high water, but a rock nearly awash at low tide lies on the eastern side, three-quarters of a mile within the southern entrance and about 100 yards west- ward of the southwest point of an islet at a turning point in the channel. Lahat Datu, named officially Lahad Datu in British North Borneo, is situated in the northwestern portion of the bay formed by the coast north of Sakar Island, and is a small settlement forming the headquarters of the resident of the district and also of the Darvel Bay tobacco company. The estate of that company occupies the flat country at the back of the settlement, and a road leads northward from it to the Segama River estate, about 10 miles distant, but in wet weather the road is almost impassable. The zinc-roofed houses at Lahat Datu are visible on approaching from the direction of Darvel Peninsula as soon as they open out clear of Sakar Island. A wooden pier with native houses on it projects to a short distance from the shore. A pier 440 yards in length and 70 yards in breadth at the end extends in a southeast direction from the southwest corner of the settlement into a depth of 3 fathoms. The steamers that call at intervals go alongside. Communications. — A North German Lloyd steamer calls every month froih Singapore via Sandakan. The British North Borneo Co.'s launches also maintain frequent communication Mith Sandakan and also with Sibuko Bay. CBOOK EEBF MOUNT SILAM. 457 Lahat Datu is connected by telegraph and telephone with Sanda- kan, but both are unreliable. Supplies. — Water is supplied to the village by coolies, who have to carry it about a mile from the river. It must be boiled before using it. Vessels must obtain it from the river with their own appliances. Vegetables and bread are plentiful, but beef is difficult to obtain. Tidal stream. — The water at Lahat Datu is, generally spealdng, stationary, but intermittently there is a very slight east-going stream. Islets south of Sakar. — Crook Reef lies off the middle of the south coast of Sakar Island, 1 mile to the southward of the conspicu- ous knob. Some small islets lie half a mile off the southwest end of Sakar. The southernmost of these islets has a sharp nipple 125 feet high at its southeast end. Silam Harbor, in the northwest part of Darvel Bay, is 6.75 miles across between Sakar Island and Tanjong Batu. A line of detached reefs extends from Sakar Island in a south- west by west direction, terminating in Adams Reef, about 4 miles from the islet, 125 feet high, off the southwest point' of Sakar. This line of reefs obstructs the eastern approach to Silam. Pulo Kalung Kalungun (below) , standing on one of these reefs about the middle of the chain, indicates the main entrance, which is immediately north of this islet. See directions below. Pulo Babi, near the center of the harbor, and the Saddle Islands nearly landlcck the anchorage off the settlement. In the north and northwest parts of the harbor there are several reefs, and foul ground extends to 700 yards from the shore. North shore of Silam Harbor. — From Sakar Island the coast trends to the westward for 6 miles to Silam anchorage, with a few minor indentations. Soai Soaiun Bay, 2 miles east-northeast from Silam, is 500 yards wide at the entrance, and, curving round to the westward, branches into two arms at the head, which is shoal. In the outer part of the bay there is a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms, mud, but barely room for a vessel to swing. The shore on the northeastern side at the entrance may be ap- proached within 200 yards, but from the islet forming the south- western entrance point foul ground and reefs extend east-southeast' ward for 600 yards in the direction of the Woodhall Reefs. Mark Hill rises to a well-defined summit 1,530 feet high, at 1.5 miles 328° from Silam, to which it sends down a long spur. It is readily recognizable, being the first summit showing on the sky line northeast of Mount Silam. Mount Silam is a flat-topped wooded mountain 2,920 feet in height, 2.3 miles westward of Silam. It is altogether the highest «i 458 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENEO. mountain within many miles, and stands up boldly, being separated by a deep valley from the other mountains to the westward and south- ward of it, and falling steeply to the northeast ; the ridge rising again to Mark Hill continues to the eastward as a coast range with a grad- ually diminishing altitude. View B, on chart 2116. Tanjong Batu, the southern point of Silam Harbor, is the eastern extremity of a low range of coast hills. Islets and dangers— Pulo Kalung Kalungun, a small islet with a round top 145 feet high, lies 1.25 miles south-southeast from Pulo Babi. It stands on a reef which projects about 150 yards from the islet. Misan Misan Beef, lying 1,800 yards 116° from Pulo Babi, is the southwesternmost of a line of reefs extending from Sakar Island ; it is small, barely covered at low water, and occasionally difficult to distinguish. The passage between Misan Misan Reef and Kalung Kalungun is 1,600 yards in width. Clearing marks. — Mark Hill in line with the left extremity of Pulo Babi, bearing 299°, leads southward of Misan Misan Reef. Also, Mark Hill in line with the northeast extreme of Pulo Babi, bearing 296°, leads northward of Misan Misan Reef, and between it and the reefs to the northeast. Pulo Babi, near the middle of Silam Harbor, is half a mile long, west-northwest and east-southeast, thickly wooded, with a remark- able conical summit 410 feet high near its eastern end, and is easily recognizable on approaching the harbor. There is very little reef off its southern and southeastern sides, but from its western point a tongue of reefs projects for 700 yards in a northwesterly direction. White rocks near the end of this reef show their heads 1 foot above high water. Woodhall Reefs are two detached coral reefs which lie about half a mile from the northern shore of Silam Harbor, and three- quarters of a mile southeastward of Soai Soaiun Bay; they are to- gether about half a mile in length, west-northwest and east-southeast, and 300 yards in width, and dry 1 foot at low water. A narrow detached reef 350 yards long lies 400 yards north of the northeast point of Pulo Babi, and narrows the channel between it and the Woodhall Reefs to a width of 600 yards. Mark Hill, in line with Wise Hill, bearing 290°, leads through the middle of the channel. Gusong Dilaut is a narrow reef 600 yards long, east and west, and awash at low water, lying 800 yards west of Kalung Kalungun, with a clear passage between them. Clearing mark. — Kissing Hill, 540 feet high and 3.25 miles east- northeast of Silam, in line with the east extreme of Pulo Babi, bear- ing 356°, leads between Gusong Dilaut and Kalung Kalungun Reefs. WAK^DEEEE EEEF PULO SAEAXGA. 459 Wanderer Reef, awash at low water, lying 1,700 yards 238° from Kalung Kalungun, is 800 yards in length north-northeast and south-southwest, and 300 yards wide. • - Adams Beef is a small reef lying 1,100 yards west-southwestward from the south end of Wanderer Keef, and 1,700 yards 174° from Giffard Islet. There is a small sandbank at its eastern extreme which dries 2 feet at low water, at which time the remaining part of the reef is awash. Clearing mark. — Mark Hill in line with the western extreme of Pulo Sumabun, bearing 330°, or eastern extreme of Giffard Islet, in line with the western extreme of Pulo Babi 24° leads westward of Adams Eeef . The Saddle Islands are a chain of six wooded islands extending from half a mile to 2.75 miles in a southeast by east direction from Pulo Bayan, immediately south of Silam. •' Pulo Sagai, the westernmost, about 400 yards in diameter, stands on a reef 'separated by a very narrow passage from the reef pro- jecting from Pulo Sumabun, the next island. It is 1&5 feet high. Pulo Sumabun, about 1,200 yards in length, northwest and south- east, and 400 yards wide, is 280 feet in height. It is connected with Nipa Nipa, the next island to the southeast, by a reef. Pulo Tabauwan is 1,200 yards long, north and south, with a sum- mit near its central part 305 feet in height, and a hill on its northern end 175 feet high. Giffard Islet, the easternmost of the chain, is connected with Pulo Tabauwan by a reef, on which stands another small islet. It is wedge shaped, rising at the eastern end to a height of 120 feet. A reef extends 200 yards eastward from this islet. Power spit, a coral ledge extending in a northwest by north direc- tion for 700 yards from the north extreme of Pulo Tabauwan, slightly obstructs the main channal between the Saddle Islands and Pulo Babi. Pulo Saranga. — Close to the eastward of Tanjong Batu is Pulo Saranga, 900 yards long, north and south, consisting of two wooded hills joined by a narrow strip of mangroves. The island is fringed by a reef, which projects southward 400 yards from the south end. The passage between these isles and Tanjong Batu is barred by a reef. A small detached reef lies 700 yards eastward of Pulo Saranga. Anchorage. — The anchorage off Silam is on a very uneven bot- tom of sand and coral, and is encumbered by three small coral heads, with 4 fathoms over them, in the southern part of the anchorage, and a fourth coral head. Holmes Rock, with 3 fathoms on it, lying 1,450 yards 47° from the western extremity of Pulo Sagai and 1,500 yards 127° from the end of the pier. A large ship should anchor outside 460 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. these patches in a depth of 15 to 16 fathoms, but a moderate-sized vessel can anchor on the banks within them. A good berth for a small vessel is with the north extreme of Puto Babijtouching the south point of the southern islet off Sakar Island', 95°, which is a convenient mark to keep on astern when nearing the anchorage. Anchor in a depth of 10 fathoms, sand and coral, when the east extreme of the southern part of Pulo Saranga touches the west extreme of Pulo Sagai, bearing 199°. This berth only just gives room to swing, and vessels can not approach nearer to the pier. The edge of the reef off Silam is very irregular and broken up into patches. Southwest of Silam and to the north of Tanjong Batu the coast forms a bight which affords sheltered anchorage in a depth of from 8 to 10 fathoms, mud, with Tanjong Batu bearing 154°, distant 1,000 yards. Directions for Silam anchorage. — The anchorage off Silam may be approached by passing either north or south of the Saddle Islands. The approach from the eastward, passing north of the islands, is quite clear after passing Kalung Kalungun, but Power Spit, projecting from the north. point of Pulo Tabauwan, must be avoided. The passage from the southward is 800 yards wide between Pulo Sagai, the westernmost Saddle Island, and Pulo Bayan, imme- diately south of Silam, and is quite clear except for the fringing reef, which extends about 300 yards from the mainland shore. From the eastward. — ^After passing Darvel Peninsula at a dis- tance of not less than 2 miles, steer for Pulo Kalung Kalungun. Pass north of this island at the distance of about one-third of a mile, and steer 304° for Mark Hill until the south extreme of the southernmost islet (125 feet) southwest of Sakar comes in line with the north extreme of Pulo Babi, bearing 95°. Then approach Silam inner anchorage with this mark on astern, which will lead 200 yards north- ward of Holmes Rock, and also northward of the 4-fathom patches previously mentioned. From the southward. — ^From a position with the east extreme of Giffard Islet touching the west extreme of Pulo Babi (which line leads eastward of Moorhen Reef and westward of Adams Reef) , and with Mark Hill, seen over the west extreme of Pulo Sagai, bearing 339°, steer for the latter, being careful not to open Mark Hill west- ward of the islet. This course leads a quarter of a mile northeast- ward of the small reef lying eastward of Pulo Saranga. When Pulo Babi begins to show between Nipa Nipa and Pulo Sumabun the course can be altered to round Pulo Sagai at the distance of from 200 to 400 yards, after which, bringing the west extreme of Pulo Sagai in line with the summit of the southern hill of Pulo Saranga, bearing 205°, steer with this mark on astern up to the anchorage. SILAM ^LAMAK BAY. 461 passing between the two westernmost of the 4-fathom patches and anchoring as convenient, as above. Silam. — The North Borneo Co. had a small settlement here, which was abandoned some years since, and the resident removed to LahatDatu. There is a small village on the beach and a wooden pier 200 yards long projects from the village over the shore reef, but it is now in a dilapidated condition. Steam launches can lie off' the end of the pier. The channel leading to the pier is marked by wooden beacons on the edges of the reefs. The beacons on the north side carry small red flags and those on the south side white flags, but the beacons are liable to be washed away. The channel can only be used by boats or steam launches ; larger vessels must anchor outside. An experimental garden has been planted about half a mile from the beach, in which Liberian coffee seems to grow well; also carda- moms and pepper. Timber is plentiful and good ; cattle thrive well. Position. — ^The observation spot is about 200 yards from the beach, in latitude 4° 57' 40" north, longitude 118° 12' 29" east. It is marked by a stone with the position cut on it. The residency flag- staff formerly stood here. Supplies. — There are a few Chinese traders here. Fish, eggs, poultry, and a small quantity of bananas and yams can generally be obtained. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, at Silam anchorage, at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 7^ feet, neaps 4 feet. There is very little tidal stream, which appears to turn approxi- mately at the times of high and low water by the shore. Coast. — From Tanjong Batu the coast trends southwestward for 3.5 miles to Hastings Point, fronted by several small detached reefs extending to a distance of from 1.75 to 2.5 miles from the shore, within which distance it is not prudent to navigate. This distance corresponds approximately with the 20-f athom contour line of sound- ings. Hastings Point may be identified by a conspicuous little wooded knoll 260 feet high near its extremity. Some small detached reefs lie half a mile eastward of the point. Lamak Bay, between Hastings and Skertchley Points, penetrates 1.75 miles to the westward and affords anchorage in from 5 to 8 fathoms, mud. The south and west sides of the bay are shoal, the 3-fathom line being distant upwards of a niile from the shore, but the northwest corner is deeper. The rivers Divatu, Magul, Siba- hong, and Ladong discharge their waters into this bay, the coast line of which is fronted by extensive mud flats. None of these rivers are sufficiently broad or deep to allow boats to ascend them for any con- siderable distance, and they can not be entered at all except at high water. 462 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENEO. Skertchley Point is a low mangrove point lying 2.5 miles south- ward of Hastings Point. A spit of sand and mud, which dries, ex- tends ill a northeasterly direction for three-quarters of a mile from the point, and must not be approached too closely, as it falls some- what steeply, and the lead will give but little warning. The en- trance to the Ting-kaiu River is immediately to the southward of the point. It is too shallow to admit boats. Kiddle Reefs, lying 1.3 miles south-southeastward from Tanjong Batu, are two small reefs with some foul ground just to the north of them. Mark hill open eastward of Pulo Saranga, 348°, leads east- ward of them. Moorhen Reefs are four small reefs, the southernmost of which lies 2.25 miles east-southeastward of Hastings Point. West Stewart Peak, seen over the summit of Hastings Point, bear- ing 301°, leads one-third of a mile to the south of Moorhen Reefs; and the summit of Pulo Babi, well open to the east of the eastern end of Giffard Islet, leads just eastward of them. Coast. — Between Skertchley Point and the mouth of the Sungi Madai, 7 miles to the south-southeast, the mangrove coast projects slightly in a rounded point, and there are two salt-water creeks in this stretch. A ridge of coast hills 285 and 395 feet in height, running north-northwest from the north entrance point, of Sungi Madai for 2 miles, assists to identify the river mouth. Mountains. — Mount Beeston, situated 9 miles westward from Mount Silam, is a wooded peak 2,830 feet in height, sending a long spur in a southeast by east direction for 9.5 miles down to the coast on the north side of Lamak Bay. About half way along this spur there are the SteAvart Peaks, nearly three-quarters of a mile apart, the western being 1,610 feet and the eastern 1,510 feet in height. From these peaks two ridges are thrown off; one trending for a long distance to the west-southwest and the other curving round to the southward, forms an amphitheater, in which the Divatu River takes its rise. Mount Skertchley is a broad, flat-topped mountain 1,530 feet high, situated 8 miles 193° from Stewart Peak and standing 6 miles back from the coast. Mount Madai, lying 5.5 miles southeastward from Mount Skertch- ley and 4.5 miles from the coast, is 1,560 feet high, and quite the most remarkable mountain in Darvel Bay. It is of limestone with bare cliffs, which show white in places, but on the summit there are some low trees, and the slopes are densely wooded. From the eastward the mountain shows as a perfect cone ; from the northward it appears as a sharp peak standing on shoulders of nearly equal height. Mount Piton, near the eastern end of the Mount Madai Ridge, is 690 feet high, and not remarkable from the sea, as it is backed by SUNGI MADAI BUM BUM ISLAND. 463 higher land ; the interest in this hill is on account of the birds'-nest caves situated immediately below it. These caves are reached by- ascending the Sungi Madai as far as practicable, and then a path of about 3 miles leads to the caves. Sungi Madai is important as leading to the birds'-nest caves. A small mangrove islet lies three-quarters of a mile eastward of the entrance, at the end of a spit of sand and mud which dries at low water, and from the islet a broad tongue of reef projects three-quar- ters of a mile to the northward; the passage into the river lies be- tween this projection and the shore reef. At the mouth of the river there is a depth of from 3 to 4 feet at low water, deepening to 2 and 3 fathoms within. The Sungi is navigable by boats for a distance of 1.5 miles. Tagabua is a small wooded islet 67 feet high, lying 2.5 miles 30° from the entrance to Sungi Madai and 6 miles 134° from Skertch- ley Point. It is bordered by foul ground and detached reefs on its west and south sides ; to the westward the reefs extend to within 600 yards of the shore bank, and to the southward the foul ground extends to a distance of nearly 1 mile, which must be avoided by vessels visit- ing Sungi Madai. Anchorage may be had in 9 fathoms, mud, at 1.5 miles 227° from the islet. Coast. — From Sungi Madai the coast trends southeastward for 7 miles to the entrance of Sigalong Trusan. The coast line, which is everywhere of mangroves, is irregular ; the shore reef is much broken up with various off-lying patches. Mounts Mostyn, Wyatt, Cook, and Hewett are conspicuous and well- determined marks for ascertaining a ship's position in this locality. They are, respectively, 1,625, 410, 705, and 1,355 feet in height. Mount Mostyn can be seen from Sibuko Bay. Greep Reefs are three detached reefs separated by deep water, which extend from about three-quarters of a mile to 2 miles from the shore near the foot of Mount Wyatt. Merrett Heefs are a line of reefs running north for 2.5 miles from the western entrance point of Sigalong Trusan. A rocky patch, with less than 6 feet water on it, lies a quarter of a mile eastward of these reefs, with the west extremity of Timbu Mata Island bearing 154°, distant 1.75 miles. Another patch with 3 fathoms on it, about 1 mile eastward of Merrett Eeef s, lies with the west extremity of Timbu Mata bearing 168°, distant 1 mile. Southern shore of bay. — Bum Bum Island, presenting no prominent features, is a large triangular-shaped island, flat and densely wooded, the tree tops being from 150 to 170 feet above the sea. Panto Panto Point, the eastern extreme of the island, forms the point of separation between Darvel and Sibuko Bays. The west side 464 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. of the island is known as Kubong and is separated from the eastern extremity of the mainland on the south side of Darvel Bay by a nar- row channel, named Trusan Tando-Bulong. The coast line is mostly comprised of low cliffs of upraised coral, much broken up into small points and bays. On the north coast, which stretches 8 miles in a west-northwesterly direction from the east point, there is a good deal of mangrove, and there are several off-lying low islets on the fringing reef of sand and coral, which dries in patches. The reef extends about 1.5 miles from^ the shore, and south of Sabankat Island it projects to the northward in a horn upward of 2 miles from the coast, narrowing the passage there to a width of 1.3 miles. There are several villages on the north coast and two on the south- east side, about 1 and 1.5 miles, respectively, from Panto Panto Point, the eastern extreme of the island. Sigalong Biver, falling into the southeastern part of Sigalong Trusan, 3.5 miles southwestward of Langas Island, flows nearly north and drains the country east of Mount Sinalong. It is broad and deep within the entrance, carrying 4 fathoms for some distance, but on the bar at the mouth the depth is only 3 or 4 feet at low water. The banks are lined with nip a palms and the steam cutter of the Egeria ascended the river for 5 or 6 miles, finding it free from^ snags and other obstructions. Pyramid Hill is a remarkable pyramidal-shaped hill, 1,050 feet in height, standing close to the coast, about half way along the south- ern shore of Sigalong Trusan. It is the northernmost peak of an isolated range of hills occupying the peninsula eastward of Sipit Eiver. Sipit River falls into the south side of Sigalong Trusan just to the westward of Pyramid Hill. The entrance is fronted by a broad flat, over which for a distance of 2 miles the depth is only about 2 feet at low water, deepening within to 3 and 4 fathoms; but, although there are several arms in which there is deep water, they are all so narrow at 2 to 3 miles from the entrance that nothing but a canoe can get farther than that distance. Mount Sinalong, situated about 7.5 miles southward from Pyramid Hill, is one of the most conspicuous mountains on the south side of Sigalong Trusan. It is 2,060 feet high, conical in shape, and falling steeply to the plain below on all sides is readily recognizable. Islands and off-lying reefs in Darvel Bay — Central part. — Eremantle Shoal, the center of which lies 8 miles 16° from the summit of Pulo Gaia, is about 1 mile in diameter, with depths of 8 to 10 fathoms over coral. Biichards Reef, lying 1 mile west-southwest of Fremantle Shoal, consists of a collection of reefs the outer edges of which are awash ADAL ISLAND ^BOHIHAN ISLAND. 465 at low water. It incloses an area 2 miles in length, northeast and southwest, and 1.5 miles in width. On the northwest and northeast sides the edges of the reefs are not steep-to, and the 10-fathom line projects nearly half a mile in the latter direction, but elsewhere the reef rises abruptly from depths of 40 fathoms and upward. From the southwest extrepiity of Richards Eeef the summit of Pulo Gaia bears 171°, distant 6 miles. Adal Island is a conspiicuous small conical wooded island 360 feet in height, situated 8 miles 328° from Tanjong Sidongal, the east point of Timbu Mata Island. It is fringed by a narrow reef, and a sand spit covered at high water projects westward from its south point. Bakuhang Island, Bankauhang Islet, and Gatahang Islet stand on reefs which are nearly joined; Bakuhang, the easternmost and largest, is 285 feet in height, and lies 1.3 miles 283° from Adal island with a passage between them. Gatahang, the westernmost and smallest of the group, is 68 feet high with a solitary tree on the summit; a reef projects 800 yards westward of the islet. The pas- sage between this group of islets and Tabauwan to the westward is 3.5 miles in width. Tabauwan is the largest and easternmost of a group of thickly wooded islands occupying the western part of Darvel Bay. Being higher than the remainder of the group, and standing well out from the land, it is easily recognizable when aproaching from the east- ward. It lies 8.5 miles southwestward of Darvel Peninsula, is 3.75 miles in length in an east-southeast and opposite direction, is densely wooded, and rises about the middle to two peaks; the western peak, 905 feet in height, shows sharply from all directions; the eastern is 910 feet high. There is but little reef surrounding the island, except near the southeastern end, where a tongue of reef stretches for over 400 yards to the southward. Near the middle, on the southern side of Tabauwan, a bay, a quarter of a mile in width and three-quarters of a mile deep, is formed between two promontories jutting out to the south-southwest from the slopes of the two peaks; this bay has depths of 13 to 20 fathoms in the center, but at the head it is foul for nearly a quarter of a mile from the shore. Silumpat Island, lying 400 yards south of Tabauwan, is 1.3 miles in length, north-northwest and south-southeast, and 550 feet in height. It is nearly divided into two islands, the parts being only connected by a low narrow neck of land near the north end. Bohihan Island, lying 2 miles westward of Tabauwan, is tri- angular in shape, its southern side being about 1.5 miles in length; the summit, elevated 780 feet, is very rounded, and the island is 90045—15 30 466 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNEO. densely wooded. A long narrow reef obstructs the passage between Bobihan and Pulo Tanna, situated three-quarters of a mile south- westward. Palundangan Islet, 330 feet high, lies south of Bohihan and 600 yards distant. Majinkil and Bakuhang Islets, south of Palundangan, are both small; the former has a well-defined summit 430 feet high. A small islet stands near the edge of a reef lying 600 yards west of Majinkil. Maganting Island is the westernmost of this group of islands, and lies rather more than a mile west-northwestward of Bohihan Island and 5 miles from the shore at the head of Darvel Bay. It is over a mile in length, east-southeast and west-northwest, narrow, and 385 feet high, with a hill at either end and a slight depression between. There is a small reef off the middle part of the southern side of Maganting Island, distant about one-third of a mile from the shore. Little Reef is a small reef awash at low water situated 2 miles 345° from the west end of Maganting Island. Nichols Reef is a small coral patch nearly awash at low water lying nearly 2.25 miles west-southwest from the west end of Magan- ting Island. Lawler Reef lies 1,600 yards 64° from Tagabua Islet. Southern side of bay. — Boheian Island, situated 19 miles westward from Frances Reef on the eastern side of Alice Channel, stands near the southern end of a reef which extends north and south through a length of 7 miles, with an extreme width near the middle of 1.75 miles, tapering to half a mile at the extremities; it forms the western side of the Alice Channel. The reef itself is quite steep-to, falling down on all sides to depths of 40 and 50 fathoms within a cable's length. The islet, 1,300 yards in length, northwest and southeast, is narrow, flat topped, and wooded, and 120 feet in height to the tops of the trees. Near the north end of the long reef there is a small wooded islet, Timba Timba, 33 feet high, with a sand bank that dries 3 feet off its southern end. Pulo Kapale stands on a reef lying half a mile northward of the reef off Timba Timba and connected with it by shoal water. The islet is small, wooded, and 90 feet high ; a sand bank, at the extremity of which there are a few bushes, runs off its north end and dries 3 feet at low water. Pulo Mataking and Mataking Kechil stand on the western side of a reef lying 1.5 miles eastward of Pulo Kapale and separated from it by a deep channel; the reef is 2.5 miles long, north and south, and steep-to on all sides, except on the west between the islets, where shoal water extends off a quarter of a mile. Pulo Mataking is PULO POM POM TATAGAN ISLAND. 467 three-quarters of a mile long, narrow, M-ooded, and 130 feet in height. Mataking Kechil, 45 feet high, half a mile northward, is much smaller; the islets are connected by a narrow ridge of sand, drying 3 feet at low water. Pulo Pom Pom, lying 4.25 miles eastward of Bohi Dulong, is a small circular islet with a fairly good summit near the center 180 feet high to the tops of the trees. The islet is surrounded by a narrow fringing reef, steep-to. Pulo Gaia and Bohi Dulong, two high islands standing on the same reef and almost united are quite the most striking landmarks seen on approaching Darvel Bay; together they form a crescent 4 miles across. These islands, as well as Timbu Mata, can be seen from the northern part of Sibuko Bay over the low islands southward of them. They are uninhabited and densely wooded. See view A on chart 2116. Bohi Dulong, forming the eastern horn of the crescent, has a prominent peak 1,200 feet high near its southern extremity; the southwestern part of Pulo Gaia, forming the western horn of the crescent, rises to a peak 1,540 feet in height, with two slightly lower peaks close to it, presenting remarkable outlines, especially when viewed from the north and east. The eastern part of Pulo Gaia culminates in a conspicuous peak 1,240 feet high ; the land between the eastern and western part being low causes Pulo Gaia to appear as two islands from some views. Tatagan Island, close off the southwestern point of Pulo Gaia, is small, 320 feet high, and partly cleared at the top. On the northern end there is a village, the present residence of the native chief through whom the British North Borneo Co. carry out their dealings with the natives. Reef. — The reef round Pulo Gaia extends on the northwest side to a distance of nearly 1.25 miles from the island, and there assumes the form of a barrier reef inclosing a lagoon full of patches; the reef approaches the shore closely on the northeast side. On the south side of Pulo Gaia the barrier reef trends in a southeasterly direction for 2.75 miles from Tatagan Island, and thence in a north- easterly direction for the southern point of Bohi dulong. The lagoon south of Pulo Gaia has depths of 7 to 16 fathoms in it, and is fairly clear of patches for a considerable space in the center. Anchorage. — In the lagoon south of Pulo Gaia there is anchor- age out of the tide in a depth of 10 to 11 fathoms, sandy bottom, east of the vi-llage. The passage into the lagoon, one-third of a mile south of Tatagan Island, is less than 200 yards in width, with a depth of 3^ fathoms, but there are no marks for it, and if a small vessel desired for any purpose to enter the lagoon it would be neces- sary to place boats on the edge of the shoal water as a guide for 468 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNEO. entering. The north extremes of Sabankat and Salakan Islands in line bearing 246° just touches the north side of the passage. Anchorage may be had outside the lagoon in a depth of 10 fathoms, half a mile 216° of Tatagan, but the tidal streams run here with some strength. Water. — The natives of Tatagan obtain their water from u spring close to the beach near the southwest point of Pulo Gaia. Mantaliuan Islet, with its tree tops 100 feet above the sea, stands on the southern end of a detached reef, lying 1.25 miles north- east of Pulo Gaia; the reef is 1.75 miles in length, north-northwest and south-southeast, is 1 mile in width, and extends a quarter of a mile south-southeastward of the islet. Another detached reef of about the same extent lies 1 mile farther, eastward, with deep water around except off its southern extremity, where shoal Avater extends southward half a mile from the reef. A long sand bank on the middle of this reef dries 3 feet at low water. A coral shoal with 4| fathoms over it lies 1 mile 142° of Manta- buan Islet; between this patch and the reef surrounding Pulo Gaia and Bohi dulong there is a channel nearly three-quarters of a mile wide. Pulo Puan is a flat-topped wooded island, 130 feet high, 1 mile in length, northwest and southeast, situated 3.75 miles 193° from Pulo Pom pom, and near the northern end of a reef which extends nearly 2.5 miles in a south-southeast direction from the island, and dries 1 to 2 feet in patches. The reef is steep-to on all sides, except at its southerii extremity, from which the 10-fathom line projects for upward of half a mile. Baturua Reef, to the westward of Pulo Puan, is separated from that island and reef by a deep channel half a mile wide. The reef is of irregular shape, 3 miles long north and south, and 1.5 miles wide near the middle, and dries 1 to 2 feet in patches at low water. The northern extremity lies 3 miles southeastward from Bohi dulong island, and from this point a bank of irregular soundings stretches northward for a distance of nearly three-quarters of a mile. Off the southern end there is also shoal water, with a patch of 3 fathoms lying half a mile 115° from the end of the reef. The tidal streams run very strongly round this reef, and care is necessary in rounding it to avoid being set too near the edge. The channel between this reef and Bulipatuid Shoal to the westward is 1.5 miles wide. Salakan and Sal)anka,t Islets lie on an extensive reef, 6.5 miles in length, northwest and southeast, midway between Gaia and Larapan Islands. Salakan, 240 feet in height, lies on the south- eastern part of the reef, about 1.5 miles southwestward from Tata- MAIGI ISLET LANGAS ISLAND. 469 gan Island. Sabankat, with the tops of its trees 160 feet above the sea, is situated 1.75 miles west-southwestward of Salakan, and stands on the southwest extremity of the reef, which extends 5 miles north-northwest and 3.5 miles eastward from the islet; two rocks about 5 feet high stand on the reef 1.3 miles to the north of Sabankat. The passage between the eastern part of this reef and the Gaia Eeef is three-quarters of a mile wide. Maiga Islet, 125 feet high, situated 1.5 miles north-northwest- ward from Salakan Islet, stands on the southwestern edge of a de- tached ^■eef 1.5 miles in length north-northwest and south-southeast and half a mile in width. There is a channel nearly 1 mile wide between it and Gaia Eeef. Sibuan Islet is a small wooded islet on the southern end of a reef nearly a mile long north-northeast and south-southwest, sep- arated by a deep channel three-quarters of a mile wide from the northern edge of the extensive reef on which Sabankat and Salakan stand. Church Reef, awash at low water, is 1.5 miles in length north- northeast and south-southwest and 1 mile in width, and lies north- westward of Sibuan Island Eeef, from which it is separated bj'- a deep channel three-quarters of a mile wide. Bulipatuid Shoal lies 2.5 miles westward from the southern end of Baturua Eeef. Within 10 fathoms' limits it is 1.5 miles long northwest and southeast and half a mile wide. In the center of this area there is a space of about 800 yards extent with depths of 4.5 and 5 fathoms, but as it is possible there may, be shoaler heads on it, vessels should not cross this shoal. Clearing mark. — Mount Tanna Ballu (Timbu Mata), in line with the north extreme of Sabankat Island, bearing 297°, leads northeast of this shoal. Pasalat Reef, between Gaia and Bum Bum Islands, is separated from the edge of the reef fringing Bum Bum Island by a channel three-quarters of a mile in width. The reef is 1 mile in length east and west by three-quarters of a mile in width and is awash at low water. From the north point of the reef Sabankat bears 306°, dis- tant 4.75 miles. Shoal water of 1 to 3 fathoms extends 1 mile both eastward and westward from the reef. Larapan Island lies 2.75 miles westward of Sabankat islet; the tops of the trees on it are nearly of a uniform height of about 200 feet. The channel between Larapan and Langas to the westward is a, quarter of a mile in width ; the edges of the reef on both sides of it are irregular and broken up. Langas Island, south of Tanjong Timbu Mata, the southeastern point of Timbu Mata Island, is about 4.5 miles in length northeast 470 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOKNKO. and soiitliAYest and is flat topped and wooded, with a single conspicu- ous hill 360 feet high at its southwestern end. A reef extends from a half to one mile from the northern end, leaving a channel three- quarters of a mile wide between it and the shore reef eastward of Tanjong Timbu Mata. The channel between Langas and the main- land is half a mile in width, and between Langas and another island to the westward of it nearly 1 mile wide, with a depth of 3.5 fathoms. Shoal water extends from 600 -to 1,600 yards off this last island; to keep in the deepest water the southwest point of Langas should be rounded at the distance of about 400 yards. Timbu Mata Island, in the southern part of Dq,rvel Bay, is 16 miles long east and west, with an extreme width of 5.75 miles, and is separated from the mainland by Sigalong Trusan. The island is densely wooded and mountainous, rising from a low western point to Mount Tanna Ballu, near its center, a sharp, conical summit ele- vated 2,035 feet; this mount, from its height and shape, makes a conspicuous landmark. On the eastern extremity Mount Sidongal, a conical mountain 1,605 feet high, is also very conspicuous. (See View A, on chart 2116.) Tanjong Sidongal (Bluff Point). ^ — The shore reef projects one- third of a mile eastward of Tanjong Sidongal, the eastern extreme of Timbu Mata Island, and thence curves round in a convex form southwestward of Tanjong Timbu Mata. On this reef there are two low islets. Shoal. — A coral shoal with 3^ to 5 fathoms on it lies nearly half a mile from the edge of the reef between Tanjongs Sidongal and Timbu Mata, with the extreme of the latter point bearing 250°, dis- tant 2.5 miles. Vessels should pass south of this shoal. The distance from it to the north end of the reef projecting from Langas Island is three-quarters of a mile. Clearing mark. — The south extreme of the islet, 70 feet high, off Tanjong Timbu Mata, in line with the south extreme of a larger island 2.25 miles to the westward, bearing 252°, leads southward of this shoal, and fair in the middle of the entrance to Sigalong Trusan. Tanjong Timbu Mata (Grassy Point), the southeastern point of Timbu Mata Island, is formed by a spur from the mountains pro- jecting to the south. Near the water's edge it is fringed with trees, and there are a few trees on the upper part of the ridge. Shoal water extends for a quarter of a mile southward of the point. Anchorage. — The Egeria in 1892 anchored in a depth of 12 fathoms, with the point bearing 266°, distant half a mile. Westward of Tanjong Timbu Mata the coast forms a bay, but it ia too much encumbered by reef to admit of its being entered very far. A vessel could, however, doubtless anchor out of the tide in a depth SIGALONG TKUSAX BALXTSUAN ISLET. 471 of 6 or 7 fathoms, with the south extreme of the point bearing 78°, distant half a mile, by passing between the shoal water off the point and the reef fringing the small islet three-quarters of a mile south- westward, but this anchorage has not been examined closely. Water can be obtained from a small spring near the southern extreme of Tanjong Timbu Mata, close to the sea. This appears to be a favorite watering place with the natives. Channel.— Sigalong Trusan, separating Timbu Mata Island from the mainland, varies in width from two-thirds of a mile to 3 miles, and is only navigable for launches and small vessels, being barred near the middle by a mud flat with but 1^ fathoms water over it. The channel also is narrow and tortuous. Directions. — Vessels having occasion to enter Sigalong Trusan from the westward proceed between the two rocky patches mentioned above, steering to pass a little over 200 yards from the edge of th6 reef skirting the eastern entrance point, and avoiding a patch with 2^ fathoms on it immediately within the entrance point. The depth in this part of the Trusan is from 5 to 6 fathoms. The channel passes to the southward of a wooded island 260 feet high 1 mile within the entrance, and south of a rock which dries 5 feet at low water, situated 600 yards 213° from a second and much smaller islet half a mile within the first. The south shore must not be approached within one-third of a mile after passing this rock. The deepest water will be found by skirting the north shore at a distance of about 600 yards and on closing the point abreast of Sipit River, a straight course 120° for 2.5 miles to the point on the north shore where the Trusan Narrows will lead over the flats in a depth of about If fathoms. After passing these narrows the water deepens somewhat, but shoals again before approaching a high bluntly conical islet which is passed on its south side at a distance of 300 yards ; it then deepens steadily, and the remainder of the channel northward of Langas Island is quite clear and deep between the edges of the reefs. For shoal in eastern entrance and clearing mark, see above. From Tanjong Sidongal to the north point of Timbu Mata the coast is deeply indented by bays, but these are, greatly encumbered by reef, and the approaches to them are very foul. Vessels should not approach the coast within the 20- fathom contour line. Balusuan Islet, lying 1.5 miles from the north coast of Timbu Mata and situated 4 miles northwestward from Tanjong Sidongal, is small and 60 feet in height. South of this islet and close to the Timbu IS^ata shore there is a larger islet 250 feet high. Patches of foul ground and reef extend to a distance of: 1,200 yards north and easf of Balusuan, and thence in a southeasterly direction for 4.25 472 PALAWAN" ISLAND AND BORNEO. miles toward Tanjong Sidongal This foul ground projects upward of a mile from the Timbu Mata coast. Vessels should not attempt to pass to the southward of Balusuan. Pulo Bati Laut, nearly 2 miles in length east and west, and 795 feet in height, is separated froiii the north point of Timbu Mata by a channel 400 yards wide with a depth of 3^ fathoms in the middle. Pulo Sati, close off the northwest coast of Timbu Mata Island, is 805 feet high, 2.7 miles long east and west, densely wooded, with two deep indentations on the south side. Its shores are lined with mangrove. A reef projects 500 yards northwestward from the west end of the island. Shoal water extends across the channel between Pulo Bati and Timbu Mata. The western end of Timbu Mata, with the south coast of Pulo Bati, forms a bay, at the head of which there is anchorage in a depth of 13 fathoms ; on the south side of the bay there are some small off- lying reefs and shoals. Hambly Reef, nearly in the middle of the entrance to the above bay, is 800 yards long north and south, and awash at low water. The northern end, on which there is a rock that dries 5 feet, lies 1 mile 230° from the west point of Pulo Bati. Immediately south of Hambly Reef there is a small islet 210 feet high one-third of a mile from the Timbu Mata shore, and between it and Hambly Eeef there is a ledge of foul ground. Learmonth. Reef, nearly awash at low water, lies 2 miles 131° from the southern extremity of Silumpat Island and midway be- tween that island and Pulo Bati Laut. It is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and usually shows clearly. Pudsey Reefs are two small reefs awash at low water, 1.3 miles apart, north and south; the northern reef lies 2.25 miles 280° from the southwest point of Silumpat Island; the southern lies 2.1 miles 242° from the same point. Dawson Rock, covered by 1 fathom at low water, is a small pinnacle rock near the western end of a narrow bank about three- quarters of a mile in length east and west, with a depth of 17 fathoms rising from surrounding depths of 25 to 28 fathoms. The pinnacle lies 1.8 miles 118° from Bakuhang Islet. Normanhurst Reef, two-thirds of a mile 223° of Bakuhang Islet, is a narrow reef, 600 yards long northeast and southwest; it may be passed on either side close to. The west extremes of Magant- ing and Tanna Islands in line, 343°, lead a short distance westward of this reef. Walton, McKinlay, Rashleigh, and Sheppard Reefs are are all small coral patches nearly dry at low water, and about 1.5 miles apart, forming along with Lawler Reef a line which corre- SIBUKO BAY. 473 spends approximately with the 20-f athoms contour line. The eastern- most of these reefs, Walton, lies nearly 3 miles 25° from the west end of Timbu Mata Island, with the southeastern extremes of Tabau- wan and Silumpat Islands nearly in line. Sibuko Bay comprises that part of the eastern coast of Borneo between the eastern extremes of Bum Bum and Mandul Islands. Topography. — Westward of the Kumpong River the mountain system on the northern shore of Sibuko Bay centers in Mount Magda- lena, with its peak situated in latitude 4° 29' 52" north, longitude 117° 55' 56" east. This mountain, 4,420 feet in height, is densely wooded to its summit, and presents a sharp peak from all sides. From Mount Magdalena a high backbone extends in a south- southeasterly direction for 15 miles, terminating in Mount Batu Tinagat, immediately to the northward of Batu Tinagat. On this backbone there are several very conspicuous elevations, notably Mount Lucia 4,070 feet in height, Maria Peak 3,680 feet. Mount Andrassy 2,200 feet, and Mount Batu Tinagat 1,390 feet high, thus gradually diminishing in altitude toward the coast. A secondary watershed branching at right angles from the main backbone springs from Mount Lucia. This secondary system curving round to the eastward, and lower in altitude, eventually terminates in Mount Wullerstorf ; while to the westward it forms a high ridge, which presently taking a southerly direction terminates in Mount Kukusan (730 feet high) close to the coast 1.75 miles north-northwest from Tawao. On this ridge there are three other remarkable eleva- tions. The first of these, distant 3.5 miles from Mount Lucia, is a high saddle, the southwestern peak of which, 2,670 feet in height, is slightly the higher. The next is Table Mountain, 1,980 feet high, perfectly flat topped, as its name indicates, which is situated nearly midway between Mounts Magdalena and Kukusan. From Table Mountain a spur running in a northwesterly direction for 3.75 miles terminates in a prominent peak, Tiger Hill, 1,550 feet in height. The third elevation is Gemok, also a large flat-topped summit, 1,405 feet high, situated 2 miles 351° of Mount Kukusan. Lesser watersheds also branch away from Mount Magdalena in northwesterly and northeasterly directions. Coast marks. — The principal coast marks on the northern shore of Sibuko Bay are very readily distinguished, and will be briefly noticed. The high summits of over 3,000 feet in height, such as Mounts Magdalena and Lucia, and Maria Peak, are frequently obscured by clouds, but those of lower elevation are usually visible. Saddle Hill, on the coast, and Mount Wullerstorf are described below. 474 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Quoin Hill, nearly 10 miles from the coast, is in the valley on the eastern side of the main backbone running to the southward from Mount Magdalena and 8 miles west-southwestward from Mount WuUerstorf ; it stands up in the plain very prominently, at an elevation of 1,965 feet. Mount Andrassy, a rounded summit on the main backbone before mentioned, is the first prominent mountain to the northward of the Batu Tinagat Hills. Immediately behind Batu Tinagat there is a range of hills from 1,000 to 1,390 feet in height, and thickly wooded; Mount Batu Tinagat, the northernmost and highest of the range, is situated nearly 2 miles north-northwest from Batu Tinagat. These hills fall steeply to the north, the range appearing isolated from the higher mountains farther north. Mount Putri, 1,020 feet high, is a spur of the Batu Tinagat Range, close to the coast, westward of Batu Tinagat. Mount Kukusan, close to the coast 6.75 miles 283° from Mount Batu Tinagat, is a very remarkable pyramidal-shaped hill. It is quite unmistakable directly it opens out to the southward of Mount Putri on a 295° bearing, and it remains clearly in view until it begins to close the higher land of Gemok behind. Coast. — From Panto Panto Point, the eastern extreme of Bum Bum Island, the south coast trends west-southwest for 7 miles to the southwestern point, forming in the center a wide indentation about 1 mile deep, in front of which is an area with depths of from 1 to 2 fathoms, with many coral patches dry at low water. A reef extends 1.5 miles eastward and three-quarters of a mile southward from Panto Panto Point, and nearly half a mile from the shore to the westward. Beaufort Reef, of sand and coral, lying to the southward of the eastern part of Bum Bum Island, and separated from the reef of that island by a channel two- thirds of a mile wide, is 7.3 miles long north- east and southwest, by 3.5 miles in width, and dries. in patches at low water. On the northeastern end of this reef stands Omadel Islet. Omadal Islet, low and wooded, is about a mile in length, east- southeast and west-northwest, and 1,200 yards wide. There is a village on its western end, and a break in the edge of the reef allows canoes to enter a small reef harbor. Shoals. — ^Two small shoals, 1.5 miles apart with depths of 3 and 3^ fathoms on them, lie, respectively, 2 miles 86° and 1.75 miles 140° from the east point of Omadal Islet. Creagh. Reef is an extensive flat of sand and coral, dry in patches at low water, stretching to the southward and south westward . for 7.5 miles from the southwest point of Bum Bum Island. On its SILAPAG PASSAGE TEUSAX TAXDO BULOXG. 475 western edge there are three thickly wooded islets — Manampili, Nusatonga, and Sipangao, 345 to 415 in height — and near the center of the reef is a wooded islet 80 feet high. The reef is barely passable for a large boat at high water. Silapag Passage, between Beaufort Keef on the one hand and Bum Bum Island and Creagh Reef on the other, is from 8 to 13 fathoms deep in midchannel, with a sandy bottom. The channel trends west-southwestward for 4 miles between Bum Bum and Omadal Islands, with a breadth of two-thirds of a mile, then turning to the southward for 4 miles between Beaufort and Creagh Reefs it contracts to a width of one-quarter of a mile. The British ship Satellite in 1886 anchored in this channel about 300 yards from the village on Amadal Islet, and found it an excellent anchorage, but the tidal streams run through with considerable strength at springs. The flood stream sets to the southward and westward and the ebb stream to the northward and eastward. Trusan Tando Bulong (Trusan Treacher), between Bum Bum Island and Creagh Reef on the east and the mainland on the west, is about three-quarters of a mile wide, but the fringing reefs on either side narrow the navigable channel to a width of a quarter of a mile in places. Vessels proceeding to Sibuko River effect a great saving in distance by using this passage ; the edges of the reef on each side are, however, very difficult to make out at times, and the tidal streams run through with considerable strength. From the northern entrance the channel trends in a southeasterly direction for 4 miles, with general depths of 20 to 11 fathoms, but with a bank of 5 fathoms extending two-thirds across the channel from the east side of the entrance; it then curves around gradually and takes a southwesterly direction for 8 miles to the southern entrance, the depth decreasing to 9 and 7 fathoms. Beacons. — Small wooden tripod beacons have been erected in the following positions : Two beacons half a mile apart on the eastern edge of the reef northward of Simporna. Three beacons on the eastern edge of the reef eastward of Hood Hill. On the southeastern edge of the reef southward of Hood Hill. On the western edge of the reef off the northwestern point of Bum Bum Island two beacons are erected nearly half a mile apart, north and south. On the northwestern edge of Creagh Reef, about half a mile norths northeastward of Sipangao Islet. They are not reliable. 476 PALAWAN ISLAND AND SOENEO. Tidal streams.— In Trusan Tando Bulong the flood stream sets to the southward and the ebb to the northward, with a strength of 3 to 4 knots an hours at springs. The streams are strongest in the northern part of the channel between Bum Bum Island and the mainland. Simporna is a small settlement on the west side of Trusan Tando Bulong, 1.5 miles within the northern entrance. A pier projects nearly a quarter of a mile over the reef into deep water; the local steamers when visiting Simporna lie alongside this pier, at the shore end of which a conspicuous zinc-roofed house affords a useful' mark for making the entrance to the Trusan. Kuli Babang. — On the west side of Trusan Tando Bulong, at 4 miles within the southern entrance, there is an inlet about 1,200 yards wide at the entrance, extending in a northwesterly direction for 1.75 miles and dividing into two arms. The southern arm is named Kuli Babang, and the northern Lok Bakong. On the eastern shore of the northern arm is Lok Bakong Hill, a remarkable conical hill 595 feet in height, forming the western end of a detached range of hills, the eastermost summit of which is Hood Hill, 525 feet high, standing on the peninsula around which the Trusan turns. The entrance to this bight is 350 yards wide between the reefs, and 8 fathoms deep, shoaling to 3 fathoms three-quarters of a mile within the entrance points. Tagassan Bay is a small inlet on the mainland immediately within the southern entrance of Trusan Tando Bulong. The inlet is 1 mile wide between the entrance points, but the shore reef, which dries out from Tanjong Tutop about 600 yards, and a mud flat extend- ing half a mile from the northern entrance point, narrow it consider- ably. On the northern shore of the inlet there is a little cleared grassy land where a village formerly stood ; this spot is called Paka- langan. Close to the beach there is a well with good water. Tides.^ — It is high water in Tagassan Bay at full and change at 6h. Om. Springs rise 7-| feet; neaps rise 4| feet; neaps range If feet. The tides are affected by diurnal inequality, the greatest differ- ence between two successive high waters being 2 feet. This is at- tained when the moon is at her greatest declination north or south. When the sun is north of the equator, the highest high water -is the a. m. tide ; when the sun is south of the equator the highest high water is the p. m. tide. Daisy Islet, standing near the edge of the fringe reef on the east side of Trusan Tando Bulong, about 2.75 miles within the north- ern entrance, is noticeable on approaching the Trusan from the northward. Directions for Trusan Tando Bulong. — Approaching from the northward: After passing between Larapan and Sabankat Islands GUSUNGAX ISLET. 477 the entrance will easily be identified by Hood Hill, lying right over it; there are no hills on Bum Bum Island. From a position with the eastern extremity of Timbu Mata Island over the center of Lara- pan Island, and the northwest extremes of Pulo Gaia and Sabankat in line, the opening between the reefs which extend off both sides of the entrance will be easily distinguished. The zinc-roofed house at Simporna will also be plainly seen, and may be steered for on a 176° bearing. This course will lead over the tail of a 5-f athom bank running off from the eastern entrance point, which bank will have been passed when the northern point of Bum Bum Island is abeam, bearing 86°, and then a mid-channel course may be steered to pass the end of the pier at Simporna at a distance of 200 yards, whence a straight course 143° for the point in the channel under Hood Hill will pass 400 yards west of Daisy Islet. The fringe reef extends about 200 yards east of the above (Hood Hill) point, and may be rounded at a rea- sonable distance, the channel being 800 to 1,000 yards in width. South of the point the reef projects from the west shore 600 to 800 yards, but on the Bum Bum Island side the fringe reef skirts the shore at from 300 to 100 yards distance. A course steered for the summit of Sipangao Islet, bearing 217°, leads upward of 200 yards from the edge of the reef off the southwest point of Bum Bum Island, and continued leads the same distance from the reef on the west side, south of Hood Hill. The beacons on the western side of the channel will assist the navigation here. Abreast of Sipangao Islet the channel is upward of three-quarters of a mile wide, and the ship's position can be readily fixed on the chart. The only known dangers outside the reefs on either side are two small coral patches on the east side; one patch lies 317° of Sipangao Islet and 400 yards beyond the edge of the reef ; the other lies west of the south end of Nusatonga Islet and 300 yards beyond the edge of that part of the reef. Gusungan Islet, situated 2 miles south of Tanjong Tutop, is a small sand cay 3 feet high with a few low shrubs on it, standing on the northwestern extremity of a reef 1 mile long northwest and southeast, and 800 yards wide, which partly dries at low water. Leading' mark. — The channel between Gusungan Islet and the southwest point of Creagh Reef is about half a mile in width ; vessels using it should bring the northern summit of Double Hill over the west extreme of the rocky point forming the western extremity of Tanjong Tutop. bearing 309°, which leads fairly between the reefs, the edges of which, when the sun is low or ahead, are not easily dis- tinguished. Double Hill is a saddle-shaped hill 760 feet in height, standing on a ridge between the Pock Eange (which shows on the sky line) and 478 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. the coast ridge, and is generally quite easy to identify from its posi- tion and shape. Coast.— From Tanjong Tutop, the southwestern entrance point of Trusan Tando Bulong, a rocky t oast backed by high hills trends westward for 2.5 miles to near the entrance of a small river, and thence a mangrove coast with low ground behind it sweeps in a gentle curve to another rock point, Delconte Point or Tanjong Nagos, 8.5 miles 261° from Tanjong Tutop. Immediately above Delconte Point there is a wooded range from 840 to 1,200 feet in height. West- ward of Delconte Point the coast recedes, forming a bay 5 miles across, into which flows the River Kumpong. Silungan is a small and wooded islet, 170 feet in height, lying 1.5 miles from the coast and 6 miles west-southwestward from Tan- jong Tutop. Kumpong Kumpong Island, lying at the mouth of Kumpong River, is 1.75 miles in length northwest and southeast, densely wooded, and has a summit near its center 280 feet high. The main entrance to the Kumpong River is on the eastern side of the island; the narrow channel separating Kumpong Kumpong Island from the mainland on the western side nearly dries at low water. Kumpong or Pallas River. — There is not more than 3 or 4 feet water on the bar of this river at low water, but within the en- trance the river has depths of from 1^ to 6 fathoms. On entering it appears j, fine broad river with two branches, uniting at 2.5 miles from its mouth and inclosing a long narrow island. The river was ascended by the steam cutter of the Egeria for 8 miles from the mouth, at which point the water was brackish. Far- ther progress was barred by the banks narrowing and by the inter- lacing of the foliage overhead, but there was still a depth of 2 fathoms water. Two branches of the river taking a southerly direc- tion were also explored, both ending similarly in deep narrow creeks. The mangrove ceases at 4 miles from the mouth; higher up the banks are clothed with nipa palms, with occasionally a red earthy bank appearing on one side and sw.imp on the other. The river is singularly free from snags or obstructions of any kind. From the topography of the country it must drain a considerable area. . There were no signs of inhabitants. Saddle Hill. — Westward of Kumpong Kumpong Island a low mangrove shore trends to the westward for 8.5 miles to a coast ridge named Saddle Hill, the eastern hump of which is 330 feet and the western 450 feet in height. Mount Pock, 1,860 feet high, is the summit of the ranges on the eastern side of the valley of the Kumpong River, and is the western- most peak of a mountainous range extending northeast and south- MOUNT WULLERSTOBF LIGITAN GEOXJP. 479 west about 6 miles northward of Delconte Point, and separated from the mountains immediately behind that point by a deep valley. Mount WuUerstorf, rising 17 miles westward from Mount Sina- long, is 2,500 feet in height with a conical summit, and standing 10 miles from the coast forms one of the most conspicuous mountains on the northern side of Sibuko Bay. It falls steeply to the eastward to the plains below, but a range of mountains from 2,115 to 1,680 feet high (the latter height being a remarkably sharp cone 5.25 miles from Mount WuUerstorf) stretches north-northwest from it, between which and the low spurs of the mountains to the eastward is a valley 7 miles wide, through which the Kumpong Kiver takes its course. The entire district is covered with extensive forest. Balung or Baluk River, which emerges through the coast immediately to the westward of Saddle Hill, is about 150 yards in breadth at the mouth, widening to 400 yards within the entrance. It takes its rise between Mounts WuUerstorf and Lucia, and flows in a southerly and easterly direction to .the ioot of one of the spurs running down from Mount WuUerstorf, and thence turns south toward Saddle Hill. The course of this river was traced by the steam cutter of the Egeria for 6 miles, or about 4 miles in a direct line from the coast, at which point the river was 30 yards wide With a depth of 1^ fathoms, further progress being barred here by a fallen tree. In the lower reaches there is a depth of 3 to 5 fathoms; the mangrove swamp extends to about 1.5 miles from the coast ; for the remainder of the river's course, as far as it was traced, the banks are lined by nipa palms. The entrance to the river lies between two banks of sand and mud projecting in a southerly direction from the mouth; the bank on the eastern side dries for a considerable distance; that on the western side has 2 to 6 feet of water on it; the narrow channel between the two banks carries a depth of 1^ fathoms at low water. The southern point of the eastern bank lies 2.25 miles 176° from the western peak of Saddle HiU. Off-lying islands and dangers— Northern side— Webb Shoal, lying nearly midway between the southern end of Pulo Puan Eeef and Si Amil Island, is about 1 mile in extent within the 10- fathom limit, with depths of 7 and 8 fathoms generally, and a patch of 5 fathoms near its southern end. This patch, which Ues 5.25 miles north of Si Amil Island, is the least depth found, but the shoal was not examined with sufficient minuteness to justify ships cross- ing it. Ligitan Group is a group of islets and reefs lying off the north coast of Sibuko Bay, extending over a distance of 16 miles, east and west, from Si Amil to Mabul Island, and separated from the Beau- 480 PALAWAN" ISLAND AND BORNEO. fort and Creagh Eeefs by the Ligitan Channel. The area included within the limits of this group comprises on its eastern side an extensive reef, roughly triangular in shape, on the northern end of which stands Danawan Island, and on the southeastern part Ligitan Islet. The southern part of the reef dries in patches 1 to 2 feet. From Danawan Island the reef extends in a south-southwesterly and southerly direction for 10 miles, projecting to the eastward with shallow water half a mile outside the edge of the reef in places on which the sea breaks heavily, and along which there are tide rips and overfalls. The water in the vicinity being considerably discolored and the examination of the edge being somewhat of an open nature, the reef should not be approached very closely. A patch, with a depth of 2| fathoms, is reported to lie half a mile to the southward of the southeast extremity of the reef. Si Amil Island, the northeastemmost island of the group, situated 8.75 miles southeastward from Omadal Island, is half a mile in diameter, 355 feet high, and thickly wooded. On its western side there is a sandy spit, and off the northwest point a reef extends for 400 yards, leaving a passage 400 yards wide between the reefs of Si Amil and Danawan Islands. The island is uninhabited, and uncultivated except for numerous mango trees in the valley on the west side. Danaw^an Island stands near the northern point of the main reef half a mile southwestward of Si Amil; it is low, wooded, and flat-topped. On the western side there is a village, and yams, sweet potatoes, mangoes, and bananas are cultivated, but the island is only accessible by boats on the eastern side, where the reef closely ap- proaches the shore. On the eastern side of Danawan there is a bay in the reef pro- tected by Si Amil Island, but the water is deep, there being 30 fathoms midway between the two islands; anchorage, however, can be obtained in a depth of 16 fathoms at 300 yards from Danawan. Lig'itan Islet, 1.75 miles from the southeast point of the main reef, and 9 miles 176° from Si Amil Island, is small, 30 feet in height, and is situated near the southern end of a narrow sand bank that dries 4 feet at low water. There are a few bushes on it. A sand bank that dries 3 feet lies 2.75 miles northward of the islet. Tidal streams and overfalls. — Off the southern end of the reef the streams run from 2 to 3 luiots, causing very heavy overfalls and whirls ; caution should therefore be exercised in approaching this end of the reef, especially as the marks for fixing the position are distant. Foul ground. — From its southern extremity the edge of the reef turns sharply to the northward, leaving Ligitan Island half a mile CUST REEF MaBUL ISLAND. 481 to the eastward, and then turns sharply again to the westward for 7 miles, thus forming a deep bight, which ends at the southwest point of the reef. Foul ground and shallow water extend westward for 2.5 miles from the southwest point, and, as the sea does not generally break over the edge, which falls very steeply down into deep water, the danger limit can not always be distinguished. From the south- \Test point the edge of the reef trends away northeastward to Dana- wan Island. Oust Reef, awash at low water, is 1.5 miles in length east and west ; its north point lies 5.5 miles 64° from Mabul Island. Several little detached patches lie about a quarter of a mile off the northern side of this reef, which therefore should not be approached closely, nor on passipg it should the water be shoaled to less than 10 or 12 fathoms. Southeast of Cust Refef. and separated from it by a narrow chan- nel, is a larger reef, 2.5 miles long, east and west, and one mile in average breadth, the edge of which has not been closely examined, but it appears to be foul to a distance of half a mile from the reef on all sides. The channel eastward of this reef, between it and a pro- jecting spur of the main reef, is 2 miles wide, but although no de- tached patches were actually found in it, yet the survey of this por- tion of the group was of too general a character to justify vessels venturing in this channel or the other passages between the reefs. Kapalai Islet is a small sandy islet with bushes on it 40 feet high, lying 12 miles west-southwestward from Si Amil, and standing on the northeastern part of a detached reef situated midway between Mabul Islet and the southwest point of the main reef. A sand bank extends from either end of the islet, and dries 3 feet at low water. The passage between Kapalai Eeef and the foul ground off the southwest point of the main reef is 1.25 miles wide, but is obstructed in the middle by a patch of 5 fathoms, and it is possible that there may be other patches with less water. Mabul Island, the westernmost of the Ligitan Group, lies 3.3 njiles west-northwestward from Kapalai Islet; it is small and densely wooded, the tree tops being 160 feet high, and stands near the north- em end of Mabul Eeef, which extends three-quarters of a mile south- ward from the islet. The passage between Mabul Reef and Kapalai Reef to the south- east is 2 miles wide, with 4 to 5 fathoms on either side, and 6^ fathoms in a narrow channel about one-third of the distance across from the Mabul side. Nothing less than 4 fathoms has been found on either side of the channel (except close to the reefs) , but the exam- ination has not been sufficiently exhaustive to determine that there is not a less depth, and therefore it would be well to use Mabul Passage on the west side of Mabul Island in preference. 90045—15 31 482 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Mabul Passage, westward of Mabul Islet, is the channel between the Ligitan Group to the eastward and Ligitan Reefs to the west- ward. It is 3-5 miles broad, but is obstructed in the middle by a bank with 3 J fathoms on it ; on the eastern side of the passage there is another bank with a depth of 4 J fathoms. The deepest part of the passage lies between these two banks, and carries a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms right through. Mount Sidongal (on the eastern extreme of Timbu Mata Island) in line with the west extreme of Sipangao Island bearing 357°, leads through Mabul Passage and to the westward of Collins Patch. ' Collins Patch, lying 1.3 miles 303° from Mabul Island, is a small coral head with a depth of 2f fathoms, rising from a narrow bank of sand and coral, extending within 10-f athom limits for a dis- tance of 2.3 miles northwest and southeast. Another coral patch on the same bank, with 4f fathoms on it, lies three-quarters of a mile 300° from Mabul Island. Caution. — Collins Bank should not be crossed by a ship unless there is some necessity for it, as the soimdings on it are uneven and it is possible that other shallow spots may exist, notwithstanding that it has been examined somewhat closely. Ligitan Channel, between the Ligitan Group on the south and Beaufort and Creagh Eeef s on the north, is 18 miles in length in a west by south and east by north direction, and varies in width from 6 miles breast of Si Amil Island to 1.5 miles at its western entrance, between Gusungan Islet and the projecting horn of the easternmost Ligitan Reef. The general depths in the eastern part are from 11 to 14 fathoms, with patches of 6 to 10 fathoms, and farther to the westward there are 18 to 20 fathoms, shoaling again to 9 and 12 fathoms at the west- ern entrance. Except Collins Patch, already mentioned, no dangers have been discovered in the channel except close to the edges of the reefs, but north, northeast, and northwest of Mabul Island the ground is very uneven and rocky, and such being its character, the shoaler parts of the banks shown on the charts should be avoided if possible. Tidal streams. — In Ligitan Channel the flood stream runs to the southward and westward and the ebb stream to the northward and eastward, with a strength of 1 laiot per hour at springs. On one occasion whilst the Egeria was at anchor during two days at spring tides, with high winds, in the Mabul Passage the tidal streams were observed to set as follows : At moon's superior transit, slack water. At 3h. after superior transit, north-northeast; maximum velocity, 1.2 knots. ^ At 6h. after superior transit, east-northeast. SIPADAN ISLET ROACH REEFS. 483 At 9h. after superior transit, east-southeast. At 12h. after superior transit, south-southeast. At 15h. after superior transit, south-southwest ; maximum velocity, 0.9 knots. At 18h. after superior transit, southwest. At 21h. after superior transit, southwest. At 24h. after superior transit, northwest, gradually changing to north. This feature of a circular tide once in 24 hours was not observed elsewhere. Sipadan Islet, situated 7.5 miles south from Mabul Island, is a small wooded islet, 165 feet high to the tops of the trees, standing on the northwest side of a reef 1 mile long north and south with 20 to 40 fathoms close to the reef, dropping into depths of over 300 fathoms at less than half a mile from the islet. Turtles frequent this islet in considerable numbers. Ligitan Reefs are a series of detached reefs, with shoal water between them, fronting the north coast of Sibuko Bay at a distance of from 3.T5 to 7 miles from the shore; from Mabul Passage they extend a distance of 9 miles to the westward. On the south side of these reefs the bank on which they stand drops steeply down into deep water. The north extreme of Silungan Island, in line with the summit of a mountain above Delconte Point, bearing 292°, leads northeast of Ligitan Reefs. Near the middle of the Ligitan Eeefs there is a break in their con- tinuity 2 miles wide, and through the western side of this opening there is a channel which, although not closely examined, appears from the soundings to be navigable. Erzherzog Reef, west of Ligitan Eeefs, and separated from them by a deep channel 1,200 yards wide, is 1.5 miles in length, east-north- east and west-southwest, and has on its northern side a sand cay which dries 6 feet. A small detached reef lies half a mile northeastward of Erzherzog Eeef. Friedrich Reef is a small detached reef with a sand cay on its northern side, which dries 7 feet at low water. It lies 4.25 miles south of Kumpong Kumpong Island and 1.75 miles westward of Erz- herzog Eeef, with a clear passage between. Roach Reefs are two reefs of small extent, a quarter of a mile apart, standing just within the 100-fathom contour line, about 9.75 miles 137° from the western summit of Saddle Hill. The north- easternmost and larger of these reefs dries 3 feet at low water. At 1.3 miles northeastward from the northeastern reef there is a coral patch with 4 fathoms on it. 484 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Between Eoach Eeefs and Egeria Shoal there is a clear passage 3 miles wide. Alert Patches, extending from 1 to 4.75 miles 244° from the western Eoach Eeef , are three banks with coral patches of 4 fathoms on them and depths of 25 to 37 fathoms between the shoals. Darby Bank, lying 1.5 miles southward of the southwestern- most Alert Bank and 1 mile within the 100-f athom contour line, makes the southern limit of the banks on the north side of the channel leading to Tawao. Within 10-fathom limits it is 1 mile long, east and west, and half a mile wide. The least depth found on it was 6 fathoms, over coral, near its center, with the western peak of Saddle Hill bearing 351°, distant 11.3 miles. Caution. — Although the least depth obtained on Darby Bank was 6 fathoms and on the Alert Banks 4 fathoms, yet, as a matter of prudence, it is always inadvisable to cross such shoals in any vessels but those of very light draft, and it is perfectly easy to avoid crossing them by bearings of Saddle Hill and Mount Batu Chinaga, which are well-placed and unmistakable marks. Chance !Bock, a small coral head with IJ fathoms over it at low water and 13 fathoms around, lies midway between Friedrich Eeef and Egeria Shoal. From it the sand cay on Friedrich Eeef bears 75°, distant 2.7 miles. Egeria Shoal is a small patch with a depth of 2 fathoms near its center, situated with the western peak of Saddle Hill bearing 322°, distant 6.7 miles. A small reef, nearly awash at low water, lies three-quarters of a mile north-northwest from Egeria Shoal. Reef — Beacon. — A narrow reef about 800 yards in length, north and south, and marked by a beacon on its southern end, lies 2 miles southwest of the south end of Kumpong Kumpong Island. Lehnert Reef — Beacon. — Lehnert Eeef is a small reef of sand and coral drying 2 feet near its southern end, on which is a beacon. From it the western peak of Saddle Hill bears 297°, distant 5 miles. Caution. — The four dangers: Chance Eock, Egeria Shoal, Leh- nert Eeef, and Heel Eeef, are all of them difficult to discern under certain conditions of light, on account of the muddiness of the water about them. Heel Reef is a very small patch of rotten coral and mud, drying 2 feet at low water, and with 6 to 16 fathoms close around. From it the western peak of Saddle Hill bears 328°, distant 4.9 miles. Shoal. — A shoal of sand and coral, with a least depth of 1 foot, is situated 3.7 miles 219° from Heel Eeef. It is about 600 yards long in an east and west direction and 300 yards wide, with a general depth of from 1^ to 3 fathoms, and 12 to 14 fathoms around. HAND ROCK FKIEDKICH HAVEN. 485 Hand Bock is the most serious of all the dangers bordering the approaches to the Tawao Channel from the eastward. It lies on the edge of the 20-f athom contour line, 3 miles west of the southwestern- most Alert patch. The rock itself is about 200 yards in length, east and west, and 100 yards wide, is barely awash at low water, and stands on the middle of a small coral bank, with 5 to 10 fathoms over it and 15 to 20 fathoms around. From it the western peak of Saddle Hill bears 5°, distant 9.5 miles. Beacon. — A steel beacon with a globe top mark has been erected on Hand Rock. Clearing mark. — Mount Kukusan kept well open to the south- ward of Mount Putri, and bearing 300°, leads to the southward of Darby Bank and Hand Eock. Friedrich Haven. — The channel between Ligitan, Erzherzog, and Friedrich Reefs on the south side and the northern shore of Sibuko Bay on the north side is 18 miles long from Trusan Tando Bulong to Egeria Shoal, and between the 5-fathom lines varies in breadth from 4 miles to 1 mile, with general depths of from 6 to 14 fathoms, mud. The narrow part of the channel is between the west- ern horn of the Ligitan Reefs, which projects to the north, and the shore bank, which shoals gradually; hereabouts the depths are greater, being from 8 to 26 fathoms. The horn of Ligitan Reefs can generally be distinguished and is steep-to. On the north side the 3-fathom line projects for 2.7 miles south- southeastward of Kumpong Kumpong Island, and passes one-third of a mile outside Silungen Islet. Friedrich Haven is the anchorage immediately off the Kumpong River and nearly in the middle of the channel, about 1.5 miles north of Erzherzog Reef, where the depths vary from 4 to 15 fathoms. Anchorage.— There is anchorage in Friedrich Haven in 6 fathoms, mud, with the summit of Mount Connor in line with the north extreme of Silungen Islet bearing 55° and the summit of Kum- pong Kumpong Island 324°. Directions. — From the westward. — The summit of Mount Connor (on the western side of Trusan Tando Bulong), in line with the north extreme of Silungen Islet, bearing 55°, leads up to the anchor- age in Friedrich Haven, passing between Egeria Shoal and Roach Reef and close to the northwestward of Friedrich Reef; the sand bank on that reef will generally be seen on approaching it. After passing Friedrich Reef the summit of Manampili Island kept on a 67° bearing will lead in mid-channel two-thirds of a mile to the northward of the projecting western horn of the Ligitan Reefs. Tides. — It is high water at full and change in Friedrich Haven at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 7| feet, neaps 4^ feet. 486 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. Tidal streams. — ^The flood stream sets to the southward and westward and the ebb to the northward and eastward, with a velocity of three-quarters of a knot an hour. Coast. — From Balung Kiver a mangrove coast fronted by a mud flat that dries for one-third of a mile from the shore trends west- southwest for 12 miles as far as Batu Tinagat, and is only intersected throughout this length by the small river Apas. The bar at the mouth of this little river, which lies 5 miles from Batu Tinagat, has but 1 foot of water on it at low tide, and a whaleboat was only able to ascend it for 1 mile. English Spit. — The 3-fathom line follows the coast from off Kumpong Island to off Saddle Hill at a distance of about 2 miles, with rocky ledges at its edge in places. From off Saddle Hill it runs westward and then curves southward and southeastward, increasing its distance from the shore to 5.5 miles at a position 7 miles south- southwest from Saddle Hill ; here it makes a sharp elbow, known as the English Spit, and turns in a westerly direction toward Batu Tinagat, passing that point at the distance of two-thirds of a mile. The 5-fathom contour line, which is close to the 3-fathom line off Saddle Hill, makes a similar elbow at 2 miles southward of English Spit and again closes the 3-fathom line off Batu Tinagat. A bank of sand and mud, awash at low water and 2.25 miles long, east and west, lies 1.25 miles from the coast between Batu Tinagat and Apas River; its western extreme is situated 2 miles 100° from Batu Tinagat. Batu Tinagat is a small mushroom-shaped rock rising from the sea off a point formed by a spur of the Batu Tinagat Hills; it is 15 feet high and bare. The point is the northeast entrance point of the strait separating Sibetik Island from Borneo. From 1 mile westward of Batu Tinagat the shore trends back a little to the north- ward of west, forming a bay 4.5 miles wide to the entrance of the Eiver Tawao, the mouth of which is much concealed by the man- groves fronting it. The shore of the bay eastward of Tawao Eiver consists of mangrove, fronted by mud flats, which dry off to the dis- tance of from a quarter to upward of half a mile. Tawao. — ^The settlement of Tawao on Tawao Point is 1.5 miles westward of the Tawao Eiver entrance. There is a Government station here, where the district officer resides. The pier projects in a 196° direction and has a depth alongside of about 18 to 20 feet. Light. — A fixed light of small power is exhibited from a pole about 20 feet high at the end of the pier, showing green to the west- ward, white to the southward, and red to the eastward. It is visible about 2 miles in clear weather, and is unwatched. Communication.— The N. D. L. steamers call here monthly from Singapore, this being their last port of call outward; coasting steam- SWIKL PATCH TAWAO. 487 ers from Sandakan generally call about every 10 days. There is no telegraph or telephone. Trade. — The trade at present is small, being principally con- fined to jungle produce and the timber industry. Anchorage. — Vessels usually anchor in 13 fathoms, about 600 yards off Tawao Pier, with its extreme bearing 27° ; smaller vessels may anchor closer to the pier, bearing in mind that the edge of the bank is steep and shoals suddenly. Steamers usually berth at the pier. Shoals. — Swirl Patch is a narrow patch a quarter of a mile long east and west, with a least depth of 2J fathoms, over coral, and 5^ to 7 fathoms around, lying 1.25 miles from the coast between Batu Tinagat and Tawao. From the shoalest spot Mount Kukusan bears 307° and the west sjimmit of Saddle Hill is in line with Batu Tinagat, 70°. This patch makes itself visible by the swirl and eddies of the tide over it. Moysey Shoals, With a least depth of 4| fathoms, lie about 1,800 yards 205° of Tawao River entrance. Harbor Shoals comprise several small patches of from 3^ to 5 fathoms inside the 10-f athom line situated northwest from the Moy- sey Shoals; from the westernmost shoal spot of 3^ fathoms the extreme of Tawao Point bears 318°, distant 1,650 yards. Wicks Rock, awash at low water, lies 600 yards off shore on the edge of the 5-fathom line, out of the track of vessels, with Tawao Point bearing 128°, distant 1,250 yards. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Batu Tinagat at 6h. Om. ; springs rise 8^ feet, neaps rise 5^ feet. At Tawao, 7 miles farther up the strait, it is high water, full and change, at 6h. 50m. ; springs rise 11 feet, neaps rise 6 feet. Tidal streams. — Off Tawao the ebb stream commences about half an hour after high water by the shore and has a maximum velocity of 2| knots at springs; the flood stream commences three- quarters of an hour after low water by the shore and attains a maxi- mum velocity of If knots at springs. Between Balung River and Sibetik Island the flood stream south- ward of English Spit runs to the west-northwestward half a knot and the ebb stream to the east-southeastward at the rate of three- quarters of a knot an hour; off the east end of Sibekit Island the flood stream sets northwest 1^ knots and the ebb southeast 1^ knots an hour. • Directions from Friedrich Haven to Tawao, — The inner route passes south of Lehnert Reef and north of Heel Reef, and is perhaps the most convenient route to follow, as the shore marks are comparatively near and well in view. From a position 1 mile northward of Friedrich Reef, the sand cay on which will be distin- 488 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. guished, a course 261° will lead two-thirds of a mile south of- Leh- nert Eeef, marked by a beacon, and the same distance north of Heel Eeef, and when Saddle Hill bears 345°, a course 210° for 7.5 miles will pass one-third of a mile southeastward of the elbow in the 5-f athoms line off English Spit, also about a mile northwestward of the shoal lying 2.5 miles southwestward of Heel Eeef, and nearly 1.5 miles to the northwest of Hand Eock, which is marked by a beacon ; the two latter dangers are specially to be guarded against. The soundings give ample warning on approaching the southeast side of English Spit, and maintaining a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms will insure passing it at safe distance. On opening out Mount Kukusan well clear to the southward of Mount Putri bearing 302° a vessel should steer 287° up the channel ; and on arriving off Mount Putri should take care not to bring Mount Kukusan to the westward of 309° in order to avoid Swirl Patch, which danger will be passed when Saddle Hill is lost sight of beyond Batu Tinagat. Mount Kukusan, seen to the westward of Tawao Point, bearing 357°, leads toward the anchorage, westward of the Moysey and Harbor Shoals, and when the extreme of the pier bears 27° the anchorage can be steered for. The outer route from Friedrich Haven passes to the southward of Chance Eock and Egeria Shoal, and between Alert Patches and Hand Eock. Keeping Mount Connor in line with the north extreme of Silungan Islet, bearing 65° astern, a straight course leads three- quarters of a mile to the southward of the beacon on Hand Eock, and in clear weather no difficulty will be experienced in fixing the posi- tion of the ship by cross bearings. Sibetik Island is about 20 miles in length in a west-northwest and east-southeast direction and about 7 miles in average width; it is separated from the mainland to the northeast by a strait 3.5 to 5 miles wide, but to the northwestward of the island there is only a narrow channel half a mile in width separating it from the Seru- dong Delta on the mainland. A range of densely wooded hills traverses the island throughout its length, the highest point of this range, Mount Antoinette, 1,550 feet in height, is in the middle. Cor- nells Peak, 550 feet high, near the eastern end of the island, is a someAvhat conspicuous point when A'iewed from any direction to the southward of southwest, but is less remarkable from other views. The boundary line between British and Dutch territories on the parallel of latitude 4° 10' north passes nearly through the center of Sibetik Island. Cowie Bay is the name given to an extensive sheet of water lying to the westward of Tawao and Saima Point; at its head is a shallow delta intersected by a labyrinth of creeks, the shores of which are everywhere lined with mangroves, and into which many rivers dis- XAWAO GOAL MINE BEACH. 489 charge, the principal being the Kalabakang. The bay was surveyed during 1909 and 1910 by the British ship Merlin as far as the limits of navigation, 12 miles beyond Tawao, above which the bay becomes blocked across its entire breadth by numerous mud flats, between which are intricate channels impracticable for navigation. Both shores of the bay consist of low mangroves fronted by extensive mud flats, and present no distinguishing features. The depths in Cowie Bay are everywhere regular, the bottom being soft mud. North shore. — From Tawao the coast trends in a general west- northwest direction for 12 miles (the limits of the survey), and is intersected by numerous small creeks and rivers, the principal of which is the Murotai, 7 miles from Tawao, which can be ascended by launches for about 3 miles at high water. South Shore — Saima Point, immediately opposite Tawao, is a low mangrove point, not readily distinguished. From here the coast trends in a west-northwest direction for 7 miles to Prescott Point, forming a slight shallow bight. It then takes a westerly trend for 7 miles to Grassy Point. At half a mile north-northeast from Saima Point there is a small sand bank that dries 4 feet at low water, with a depth of 6 fathoms between it and the shore. Grassy Point is somewha,t conspicuous, being the first hard ground met with, appearing as a grassy opening of flat land fronted by clay cliffs 30 feet high. For a distance of 1 mile northeast from Grassy Point shoal water extends upward of 600 yards fsom the shore. Kalabakang Biver, flowing into Cowie Bay, the northwest arm of Sibuko Bay northward of Sibetik Island, was explored, together with the principal creek near its entrance, by the steam cutters of the Egeria for a distance of 22 miles following the course of the river, or 9 miles in a direct line from the mouth. The mangrove swamp extends for 3 miles from the coast; higher up the banks are lined by nipa palms. The river, varying in breadth from 30 to 40 yards and with depths of from 2 to 5 fathoms, makes very sharp bends in places. At 6 miles in a direct line from the entrance the banks on both sides become higher, with hard ground, and there are native huts with partially cleared land in their neigh- borhood. The river here begins to wind about considerably, and in several places the depth decreases to 1 fathom. At the farthest point reached by the boats the river was about 30 yards wide, but a line of rapids right across barred further progress. Here the water was fresh. The rate of the current was about half a knot an hour. Coal Mine Reach. — The northern entrance to Coal Mine Eeach lies between Grassy Point, Sibetik Island, and Adolphy Point, on 490 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. the north side of the Simatahan River entrance, a little over a mile apart. From Grassy Point the shore of Sibetik Island turns sharply to the southwest and forms, with the opposite shore of Traverse Island, a channel a little over half a mile wide. At the northeast and southwest ends of the reach, on the Borneo side, are the mouths of the Simatahan and Serudong Rivers, respectively. The survey of 1910 was carried as far as the parallel of the boundary beacon on the west side of Sibetik Island, and included the two rivers just men- tioned. Shoals. — Pilot bank extends 4 miles east-northeastward from Adolphy Point, north side of Simatahan River entrance. Both this bank and that extending from Grassy Point are steep-to, the lead giving little warning, especially in the deep water between the two points, where the navigable channel is only half a mile wide. Llewellyn Bank is an extensive mud flat that dries in patches and extends from Agas Point nearly across the Simatahan River entrance toward Adolphy Point. It is steep-to. Drake Bank, of hard clay, with a least depth of 3| fathoms and general depths of 4 to 5 fathoms, lies in mid-channel off the coal depot on Sibetik Island. Beacons and Buoys. — ^A pile beacon, with a black and white checkered top mark, is located on the northern edge of the half- fathom shoal on the southern side of Cowie Bay, 4,780 yards, 94°, from the southern extreme of Adolphy Point. A siijiilar beacon on the southern side of the entrance to Coal Mine Reach, in 3^ fathoms of water on the edge of the bank, 2,180 yards, 110°, from the southern extreme of Adolphy Point. A pile beacon, with red top mark, on the edge of the bank on the northern side of the entrance to Entry Narrows, 600 yards, 99°, from the southern extreme of Adolphy Point. A red conical buoy, with a white spherical top mark, on Drake Bank, Coal Mine Reach, 800 yards, 298°, from the extremity of the wharf at Sebetik Island coal depot. Directions from Tawao to Sibetik Island coal depot.— From Tawao anchorage a vessel should steer 285° for about 9.5 miles, pass- ing along the north shore of Sibetik Island, westward of Prescott Point, at a little over a mile distant, where the depths are from 8 to 9 fathoms. This course leads apross the tidal streams, and attention is necessary; the position of the vessel may be readily ascertained by bearings of the numerous hilltops and the near tangents of Sibetik Island as it is approached. When Adolphy Point, which appears as a somewhat -gharp tangent of land, bears 260°, itshould be steered for on that bearing, which leads between the dangers on either side. As Grassy Point is approached attention is required to the steering, as the tidal streams run here with a velocity of 2f knots at springs. SIBETIK ISLAND COAL DEPOT. 491 When Datum Point, the extremity of the land on Sibetik Island southwestward of Grassy Point, is seen open of Grassy Point bearing 224°, it should be steered for on that bearing, course being altered quickly as the channel is only half a mile wide, passing 600 yards off the land at Grassy Point, after which a mid-channel course should be followed in Coal Mine reach. Vessels waiting to berth should anchor in about 8 fathoms in mid-channel northward of Drake Bank. The deepest passage, 400 yards wide, where the depth is 6^ fathoms, lies northward of Drake Bank, and the least depth between the bank and the pier is 5 fathoms. Coaling pier. — The coal depot of the Cowie Harbor Coal Co. is established at the northwest end of Sibetik Island, where there is a coaling pier situated about 3 miles southwestward of Grassy Point. The pier is 145 feet in length, with a pierhead of 100 feet by 35 feet, and a depth of 5 fathoms at low water springs at the end. All export of coal is done here. Vessels for coal report first at Tawao. Bollards are placed on the shore to enable vessels to go and lie alongside the pier. "Water fit for boilers is supplied by a pipe to the pier. The head offices of the coal mine are situated at Silimpopon, on the Serudong Eiver, about 14 miles from the pier. Coal. — From 1,000 to 4,000 tons of native coal are usually avail- able; bunker coal can be put on board at the rate of 15 tons an hour. Cargoes of coal can be loaded at the rate of 500 tons per diem ; labor is plentiful. There are two 500-ton lighters, which are used to con- vey coal from Sibetik to Sandakan, and four of 100 tons. Port charges. — Vessels enter and clear at Tawao. There are no port charges when calling for coal to replenish the bunkers. Communication. — There is regular monthly steamship com- munication with Singapore and weekly with Hongkong ; local steam- ers call once a fortnight. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, at Sibetik Island coal depot at 7h. ; springs rise 12^ feet ; neaps rise 7 feet. The ebb stream commences one hour after high water by the shore and attains a velocity of 2J knots at springs. The flood stream commences IJ hours after low water and attains a velocity of 2| knots at springs. Coal depot to the southward. — Opposite the mouth of the Serudong Eiver the shore of Sibetik Island turns sharply to the southeast; here shallow flats commence, stretching right across from shore to shore, leaving an intricate narrow channel, with a least depth of 3 fathoms,, to the southward, only suitable for small craft. Abreast Sedam Island the channel is only 300 yards wide. Serudong River. — The Serudong Eiver has its entrance opposite the western extreme of Sibetik Island, where it is three-quarters of 492 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENEO. a mile wide between Doris Point on the north and Monk Point on the south; thence it trends in a general west-northwest direction for 6.5 miles to Merlin Point, where the river is only 250 yards across, and beyond which vessels of any size should not proceed; above Merlin Point the river is known as the Silimpopon. At Dingle Point, 2 miles above Merlin Point, the river is only 200 yards wide and can only be navigated by launches and lighters. The navigation of the river as far as Merlin point presents no diffi- culty, and the tidal streams seldom exceed one knoti The: general depths are not less than 6 fathoms in mid-channel, except on Entry flat, on which there is not more than 4 fathoms at low water, and on Watson Eidge, which has a least depth of 4J fathoms. Directions. — ^When entering the Serudong River, Doris Point should be rounded at a distance of 400 yards to avoid Duke Bank; Junction Point, in line with the tangent of the land forming the north bank of Harvey Eeach, bearing 300°, leads just northward of Duke Bank, and when Doris Point comes in line with Agas Point a vessel will have passed the extreme of Duke Bank, and can alter course to the southward in order to gain a mid-channel course, which, should then be followed. The shores are everywhere lined with mangroves, with deep water generally close up to the banks. A moderate sized vessel should not proceed beyond Junction Point, where swinging room will be found if moored in 9 fathoms, east- ward of the point. The British Ship Merlin lay at single anchor in mid-channel 317° from Merlin Point, where sufficient swinging room was found. Silimpopon River is the name given to the part of the Serudong River above Merlin Point. At Dingle Point the river rapidly nar- rows and is blocked by a flat upon which there is only 6 feet at low water. Painted boards are placed on the banks of the river to facilitate navigation, red marks indicating danger, and white marks that the channel is close to the bank on that side. About 1.5 miles above Dingle Point, rising ground commences on the left bank; here is a temporary depot known as No. 1, and a halting place for lighters, with a small pier. The coal from the mines is brought by a light railway to No. 2 depot, 1.5 miles above No. 1, where it is placed in lighters for conveyance to Sibetik coal depot. Between Nos. 1 and 2 depots the river is very narrow and tortuous, and can only be ascended by launches at half tide. The tidal limit of the river is situated near the coal mines. The Silimpopon coal mines, about 3 miles above No. 2 depot, are being developed by the Cowie Harbor Coal Co., the output of coal being 100 tons a day (1910). Simatahan River discharges opposite Grassy Point, Sibetik Island, and has its entrance between Agas Point on the south and TEUSAN MERLIN. 493 Adolphy Point on the north, 1.25 miles apart. It trends in a gen- eral westerly direction for 7 miles to Caution Point at the north end of Trusan Merlin, beyond which it unites with the waters of Kalabakang Eiver. Should a vessel require to proceed up this river, no difficulty will be found in the navigation as far as Eendezvous Point, the general depths being from 7 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and the tidal streams do not exceed one Imot. The shores of the river are everywhere lined with mangroves, with deep water gen- erally close up to the banks. Llewellyn Bank, an extensive mud flat that dries in patches, ex- tends nearly across the river entrance from Agas Point toward Adolphy Point, and thence to Griffith Point, leaving a passage be- tween its northern edge and Adolphy Point of only 300 yards in width and nearly three-quarters of a mile in length. An extensive bank lies a short distance southeast of Caution Point, and narrows the navigable width of the river considerably. Directions. — To enter the river a course 290° should be steered for the extremity of the land on the south bank, half a mile west of Griffith Point, in order to pass Adolphy Point at a distance of 300 yards, and which leads midway between the dangers on either side. On approaching Adolphy Point attention is required, the eye being the principal guide. The ebb stream at spring sets somewhat sharply around Adolphy Point and over Pilot Bank, which is steep-to, the lead giving no warning. After passing Adolphy Point alter course to the northward as Griffith Point is approached, in order to gain a mid-channel course, which should be preserved from here onward. A vessel of moderate size will find barely sufficient room to swing if moored in the center of Long Reach, where the river banks are 350 yards apart, in a depth of 10 fathoms. The Merlin lay at single anchor in mid-channel southeast of Caution Point. Trusan Merlin is a narrow serpentine channel, 4.25 miles long in a north and south direction, connecting the Simatahan and Seru- dong Rivers. It is only 150 yards across at the narrowest part, and the least depth in mid-channel is 5^ fathoms near the southern end. The turn into Trusan Merlin from the Simatahan River is very sharp, being one of eight points around Caution Point, off which there is deep water. If entering the Simatahan from the Trusan, Caution Point should be passed within 75 yards, as flats extend some distance offshore on the opposite bank. If coming from the northward after passing the narrowest part of the Trusan, at Herald Point, care should be taken not to mistake a creek for the main channel which lies to the southward of it. A creek near the north end of the Trusan, suitable only for launches, leads about 1.5 miles from the entrance to hard ground, which here 494 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BORNEO. rises to a height of 1,100 feet, the country everywhere being densely wooded. The navigation of the Trusan Merlin presents no difficulty in a handy vessel, should circumstances require it to be used, but there is scarcely room for vessels to pass if meeting from opposite directions and unprepared. The velocity of the tidal streams, which enter from both direc- tions, does not exceed 1 knot an hour. Boundary beacons. — ^At 1.6 miles southeast from Saima Point there is a stone beacon, covered at half tide, on the edge of the man- grove swamp, to mark the exact spot where the parallel of 4° 10' north cuts the coastline ; its position having been determined by joint observations on the part of British and Dutch officers. A wooden tripod beacon marks the spot where the boundary parallel meets the southwestern shore of the island. A wooden tripod boundary beacon has also been placed on the mainland at Burs Point, whence an imaginary line drawn north 74° 20' west marks, in conjunction with the beacons just mentioned, the separation of British and Dutch territory. East Point, situated southeastward 4.5 miles from Saima Point, is a rounded point with a hard sandy beach, backed by high casua- rina trees. From Saima Point the mud flats widen outward as the coast trends southeastward toward East Point. The sand and mud flats dry off to a distance of 1.5 miles eastward of this point, but they are not so soft as the flats of unmixed mud farther to the northward. At 1.5 miles northward of East Point and 1 mile from the coast> there is a sand bank that dries 4 feet ; it is separated from the mud flats fronting the shore by a narrow channel. The 3-fathom and 5-fathom lines pass close outside this sand bank, and the edge of the shallow water is very steep-to all along the shore from Saima Point to abreast of East Point, from which these contour lines are distant 2 miles; the depth decreases sud- denly from 6 to 2 fathoms. Stone Point. — From East Point the coast trends to the south- ward with a slight indentation for 3.75 miles to Stone Point. The sandy beach in this bight is backed by red cliffs from 20 to 80 feet high, the country behind is low and densely wooded. Off Stone Point there are several patches of rocks that dry at low water, and at 1.5 miles to the southwestward of Stone Point there is a very small islet close to the coast, which from thence trends southwesterly and westerly for 3.25 miles to the south point of the island. Dangers— Dutch Spit. — Eastward of Stone Point the 3-fathom contour line projects in a sharp elbow to a distance of 5.75 miles from the coast. From the extremity of this spit, which is known as Dutch Spit, Mount Batu Tinagat bears 349°. A detached shoal, with PADANG BANK SIBUKO BIVEE. 495 2| fathoms on it, lies 1.5 miles north-northwest from the end of the spit. The 5-fathom line extends 1.75 miles eastward of Dutch Spit. Vessels approaching Tawao from the southward should be careful in rounding Dutch Spit, especially on the flood tide. Padang Ba.nk, lying 2 miles south-southeast from Stone Point, has on it a patch that breaks, with only 3 feet water over it. Mangkassar Banks, portions of which dry at low water, are two banks lying east and west of each other, situated south-southeast- ward of Stone Point, and are together nearly 3 miles in length within the depth of 1 fathom. They are narrow and steep-to on both the' north and south sides. The western edge has not been defined; the eastern end of the bank, in a depth of 3 fathoms, lies about 6.5 miles southeastward of Stone Point, and from it Mount Batu Tinagat bears 357°. A ridge, with depths of less than 5 fathoms on it, extends 3.5 miles eastward from the shoal extremity of these banks. The channel between Mangkassar and Padang Banks has a depth of 5 to 7 fathoms in it, but, in view of the survey having terminated short of its western end, it would be imprudent to attempt to pass through it. Unarang Ilock is a small rocky patch that dries 1 foot at low- water springs, with 9 to 20 fathoms close around. It is situated 10 miles 109° from Stone Point, Sibetik Island, just outside the edge of the 20-fathom contour line, with Mount Batu Tinagat bearing 337°, and forms the southernmost outer danger in the approach to Tawao. The main entrance to the strait north of Sibetik Island lies between Unarang Eock and Hand Rock, 9.5 miles to the northeast. Sibuko Hiver. — From Tanjong Ahus, or Keerweer Point, the eastern extreme of Ahus Island, the coast trends northwestward for 26 miles to the mouth of the Sibuko Eiver, and is formed by three islands. From Tanjong Ahus shoal banks extend eastward about 9 miles. The approach to the entrance of the Sibuko Eiver from sea lies between the three islands mentioned, on the south, and East Nonokong Island, on the north, and is from 2 to 5 miles wide between the banks. On the outer bar, northward of Ahus Island, the depth is 5 fathoms in the center, increasing to 6 fathoms within until about 5 miles distant from the mouth of Sibuko Eiver, when it decreases to 5 fathoms in mid-channel. In the Sibuko Eiver entrance is Senelak Island, 344 feet high near the south end. Banks, dry at low water, extend a quarter of a mile southwest and westward from the island. Tembalan, off its south point, and Pelanduk, near the north entrance point of the river, are wooded rocks. The channel southward of Senelak appears to be deep, while that to the northward has 3.5 fathoms in it; at three-fourths of a mile within the island the depth is 4.5 fathoms in mid-channel. The Sibuko is stated to have a bore at the time of full moon. The advance of the wave up the river can be heard at some distance. 496 PALAWAN ISLAND AND BOENEO. The land on either side of the river mouth is high and rocky, but 5 miles upward the shore is again low and covered with mangroves. The river has been ascended for 25 miles, with depths of 3 to 7 fathoms, and gradually narrows to about 300 yards amidst dense forests. Sibakies and Simengaris Kivers, two streams northward of the Sibuko, unite in a common mouth, 2 miles wide, at Bakies Point, 4 miles westward of Sibuko River entrance. The Sibakies Eiver has 2^ fathoms outside the entrance and from 3 to 8 fathoms for 6 miles up; the Simengaris has from 1^ to 2 fathoms at the entrance and carries from 2 to 12 fathoms for 9 miles. Coast. — From the point opposite Sibuko River entrance the coast trends northeastward for about 6 miles to the southern branch of the Sino Solan River, which is separated from the northern branch by an island, the eastern point of which is Burs Point, with a boundary beacon on it, previously mentioned. These two branches unite about 4.5 miles from their entrances and are afterwards connected with the Serudong River, as charted. Separated from this coast by a channel one-third of a mile wide, with a depth of 1 fathom in its north entrance, named Leigh Strait, or Trusan Tina Basan, is Tina Basan Island, 3.75 miles long northeast and southwest and 2 miles broad. East Nonokong Island or Nunukan, situated eastward of the Sibuko River entrance and southwest of Sibetik Island, is 11 miles in length north and south and 9.5 miles broad, high and densely wooded. Between it and Tina Basan on the northwest is a channel 2 miles wide, in which the depth is 2 fathoms at the southwest end ; close to the northwestern coast of the island, opposite Burs Point, are a sunken rock and two others awash. The channel between East Nonokong and Sibetik Island is from 1^ to 2 miles wide, with depths of from 4^ to 10 fathoms. Between the east and south points of East Nonokong Island, a shoal spit, with less than 3 fathoms at the end, extends 9.5 miles from the shore in an east-southeast direction; the inner part of this spit dries at low water to a distance of 6 miles eastward from the south point of the island. The chart should be used with caution when in the vicinity of East Xonokong Island and the approach to the Sibuko River. Off-lying dangers. — Doubtful Rock. — A sunken rock with no soundings around it is marked " D " on the chart, 19.5 miles 129° from Stone Point, Sibetik Island, in latitude 3° 52' north, longitude 118° 11' east. Banda Reef is a coral reef with a depth of 6 feet over it, situated 10.5 miles 78° from Tanjong Ahus. INDEX A. Page. Aanvang Bank 196 Abai River , 362 village. . .' 362 Abana Rock 321 Acasta Rock 284 Acis ShoalB 315 Adal Island 465 Adams Reef 459 Agal Bay 367 Agal, Tanjong 367 Agenietan Islands 122 Alceste Reef 187 Alert Patches ' 484 Rock 363 Alice Channel 448 Reef 448 Alicia Annie Shoal 376 Alida Shoal 276 Alkmaar Island 127 AUardBank 434 Alwina Reef 206 Akbar Shoal 193 Ambawang, Sungi 263 Ambong Bay 359 Point Shoals 359 village 360 Amelia Bank 160 Light buoy 160 Ampa Patch 320 Amsterdam Island 123 Amy Douglas Shoal 377 Anak Awur Island 278 Andulinang Islet 446 Aniai, Tanjong 158 Anjer 73 Old 73 ■ Peak 73 -Road, new 75 Anson Passage 327 Ant Islets 363 Api Passage ,. 284 ^ Tanjong 274 Appo Island.... 387 90045—15 32 Ardasier Bank 319 Ardasier Breakers 375 Arend Bank Ill Argo Shoals 205 Arminia Rock 102 Armstrong Reef 453 Arnemu'den Bank 100 Light 101 Arsat Rock 363 Aru, Tanjong 352 Aruba Banks 249 Asin, Bukit 159 Atjeh Rock 434 Aur Island 193 Ayer Met 104 Lanchur 200 Light 200 Masin 235 ■ Rock 126 B. Babi Island 115 ■ Light 115 — Pulo 458 Babur Shoal 127 Bagahak Mountain 438 Point 452 Baginda, Tanjong 150 Baguan Island 431 Bahala Island ' 433 Bajapa Reef 448 Baka Shoal 103,204 Bakau Island 192,237 Limau 230 Bakkiingaan, Great, Island 431 ■ Little, Island 431 Bakong Island 242 Bakuhang Island 465 Islet 466 Balabac Strait 396 North 388 Island 390-395 Balak Island 83 Balambangan Island -. 400 497 498 INDEX, Balok Bay 227 Balul River 312 Balung River 479 Balusuan Islet 471 Bancalan Island 387 BandaReef 496 Bangkai, Tanjong 267 Banguey Island 404 Outer Northeast Reefs 406 — ^ South Channel 408 "West Channel 402 IBanju Asing River, The 148 — directions for 148, 149 ianka Hill 154 Island, east coast , . 184 - — northeast coast 210 northwest and north coasts of 173 -^ Point 154 Strait, eastern shore 150 — general description 139-142 — western shore 142 — winds and weather 25 currents 39 — — tides 42 — working through from southward 172,173 working through from northward 173 Biankauhang Islet : 465 Bankawan Channel 412 Island 407 Bankoka Hill '... 422 Banku ru an Cays 428 Bantam Bay 114 islets in_ 114 village 115 Barat Rock 210, 336 Bam Island. See Kwee Island. Barram Point 316 Light 316 Ri-.er 316 Barraut Reef 415 Barton Shoal 366 Baru Baru Islands 329 Pulo 269 Batakarang Point 149 Bata- ia 135-138 ■ Roads 123 Old Road 129 New Road 129 Light 129 northern approach 126 — channels, directions for 132, 133 Page. Batavia, western approaches 117 Bati Laut, Pulo 472 -^, Pulo 472 Batong, Pulo , 280 Batu Belat, Tanjong 268 — , Bukit 159 , Denem Rock 186 , Binding Island. .' 201 Islet 278 , Jurung Point 251 , Neneh'Reef 292 , Penu Reef 295 , Pinang Island 202 , Tanjong 458 , (Marudu Bay) 416 , Taku Reef- 202 Batuan, Karahg 236 Batumandi Island 368 Baturua Reef 468 Bawal Island 250 Beaufort Reef 474 Bedaau, Tanjong 156 Bedua, Pulo 280 Beeston, Mount 462 Belanda Islet 104 Belantung, Batu 81 Bay. See Lubuk Bay. Belayer Reef 151 Belcher Shoal 360 Belu, Bukit 159 Beh edere Rock 219 Benkoka Ri- er , 414 Benoni River, The 350 Benua Island 281 Beras, Karang, Islet. 104 Berikat Bank 184 Point 184 Beronang Reef 102, 103 Bersiap, Tanjong 164 Beschutter Islet 91 Bethane Head Shoals 342 Biat, Tanjong 165 Big Tree Island 238 Billean Island 427 north dangers 428 south dangers 428 Billiton Island, east coast 228 general description 226 north coast 226 south coast 226,227 west coast 197 Binga, Cape 205 Binnen Bank igi INDEX. 499 Page. Binnen, ' Bay 85 Bintulu Eiver, the 315 Biaa Island 364 Point 366 Black Rocks 244 Watch Rock 405 Blake Reef 447 BlasMateu Rock 182 Bliang Island 241 Bliss Reefs 182 Bo aan Island 430 Boheian Island 466 BohlDulong, Pulo 467 Bojur Island 213 Bombay Shoal 373 Boom Island ., 242 Boompjes' Island 188 Reef 93 Borne, village 79 Borneo Bank 398 British North 297-299 coast, directions for 270 • northeast coast 412 winds and weather 36 northwest coast 345 — — general description... 261- 263, -297 Rock 435 ■ west coast, general description . 247 Botong Point 79 Bowen Island 387 Bower Shoal 235 Brabands Island 74 Brace Islands 278 Branding Breakers 181 Brandon Reefs 413 Brani Point 155 Brom Brom, Karang 160 Brooketon, village 327 Brouwers Reefs 100 Browers Sand 75 Brown Shoals - - 376 Bruit River ' 313 Brukhuijzen Reefs 220 Branda Reef 128 Bruni 299 Bar, Inner 330-332 ■ Bay 333 Bluff 319 Channel 329, 330 Cliffs 319 Patches 320 Page. Bruni River, approach 321, 322 — Town 332 Bu-a-ning Reef 423 Buan Island 243 Buar Island 211 Buding Bay 231 Bugsuk Island 386 Bulat Island 247 Bulipatuid Shoal 469 Bulu Bay 173 Bulu Islet 447 Bum Bum Island 463 Bunbury Shoals 365 Bungin Point 108 Bungin, Pulo 282 Bunta, Karang 294 Burong Island -247, 348 (Labuan approach) 337 Islands, The 269 Mandi Hill 230 Point 230 Bush Island 424 Button Island 76 Byan Island 387 C. Cables 22 Calandorang Bay 391 Light 392 Canabungan Island 387 Candaraman Island 389 Canimeran Island 387 Canning Rock 218 Carimata Islands, The 240 Strait, currents 39 — directions 258-260 — general directions 224 tides 42 winds and weather 25 Carnatic Shoal 374, 377 Carnbee Rocks 196 Carrington Reefs 411 Castle Peak 349 Casuarina Point. (See Mentigi Point.) Catherine Reefs 239 Rock 72 Cay Marino Shoal 375 Celestial Reefs 220 Champion Shoal 321 Chance Rock 484 Changkir Island 116 Channer Island 238 Chanti Road 87 500 IKDEX. Pa;e. Cnebia Island 177 Chempedak Island 251 Cheruchup Bay 203 dangers in 203 Chilagin, Pulo 186 Light 186 China reef 244 — — ■ Sea currents 39 , tides 42 , -winds and weather 28 Choadong Islands 86 Chonkak Reef 104 Christian Rock 103 Christmas Island 61 Church Reef 469 Ohurmin Island 328 Circe Reef 217 Cirencester Shoal. . . / 236 Ciego, Port 390 Clarendon Bay 393 Claude, town 317 Clemencia Reef 249 Clement Channel 192 — — directions for 194, 195 Clifton Bank 107 Clotilde Rock 431 Coal 21,22 Coal Mine Reach 489 Cocos Islands 21 Collier Rock. See Tims. Collins Patch 482 Columbine Shoal 338 Comiran Channel 395 — — ■ Danger Bank 395 Island 395 Coinmodore Reef 375 Communications 21 Condor Reef 239 Cook, Mount 463 Cooper Shoal 196 Copper Rocks. See Karang Tambaga. Cora Shoal 103 Coral Bank 72, 187 Corcyra Bank 251 Reef 238 Corawallis Reef 379 ■ South Reef 379 Coventry Reef 102 Cowie Bay 488 Hill Light (Bruni) 323 Crane Island. See Kraanvogel Is- land. CreaghReef 474 Page. Creighton Patch 353 Crook Reef 457 Crown Peak. See Gunong Maras. Cruizer Rock 302 Cunningham Patch 320 CustReef 481 D. Daat Island 337 Daisy Islet 476 Dalam, Karang 104 Dalawan Bay 393 Damar Pulo 268 Dana wan Island 480 Dangerous Ground 31,374 Dapur Island 120 Islands 151 Light 151 Point 151 Datu Pulo 268 Datu Tanjong 274, 275 Datum Rock 370 Dawon Point 153 Pulo 154 Light 154 Dawson Rock 472 Darby Bank 484 Darvel Bay 449-451 ■ Peninsula 453 De Brauw Reef 192 DeSteenReef 124 Deluar Shoals 348 Deli Island 67 Delima Shoal 121 Dent Haven 442 Deva Reefs 220 Diana Reefs 289 Diederika Shoal 214 Dinawan Island 351 Direction Islands. See Paneeky Ketcbil. Director Shoal 376 Discovery, East Bank 235 — Light 235 Reef 235 Rocks 186 West Bank (see Ayer Masin) 235 Dbkan Island 177 Double Island 246 Doubtful Rock 496 Doyang Malan 174 Drievadems Bank 183 Dua Islands 103 INDEX. 501 Pa?e. Dua Point 150 Duku Shoals 127 Dunlop Shoal 347 Dumdum Island 283 Dumpil Point 351 Rock 351 Duperr6 Islands 292 Dutch Channel 117 , directions for 130 Dutch Spit 494 E. East Island (Montaran Islands) 239 Point 494 Eastern Bank 167 Ebeling Shoal , 277 Edam Island 126 Light 126 Eeef 126 EdelingEeefs 102 Edgell Patches 353 Egeria Rocks 423 Shoal 484 Eleven Islands 206 Elizabeth Reef 211 Ellis Shoal 397 Elton Bank 434 English Spit 486 Enkhuizen Island 127 Enoe Island 337 Spit 337 Enslie Reef 221 Entrance Point. See Murung Point. Embleton Rocks 182 Erzherzog Reef 483 Erickson Shoal 243 Etna Bank 101 Light 101 F. PairlieRock -. 182 Fairway Shoal 420 Shoals... 243 Fairy Queen Shoal 377 Falcon Shoal 183 Fancy Wreck Shoal 379 Pathool Barie Shoal 214 Favorite Passage 294 First Point 69 (Banka Strait) 143 Five Fathom Banks Ill Flat Cape 77 Island 378 Page. Florence Adelaide Reef 240 Flying Fish Cove 63 Reef 240 Rock 430 FokkeReef 214 Four Fathom Bank 110 Patches 342 Fourth Point (Banka Strait) 144 (Java) 73 Fox Banks 249 Shoal 249 Francis Bank 366 Reef 447 Frederik Hendrik Rocks 165 Fremantle Shoal 464 Friedrich Haven 485 Reef 483 Friendship Shoal 318 Furious North Shoals 366 South 366 Fury Rocks 341 G. Gaia, Pulo 467 Gabung Island 387 Gales 35 Ganbong Islet 229 Ganda Point 367 Ganges Reefs 379 Gangsa, Tanjong 252 Gap Rock. See Sea Rocks. Gasap Point 364 Gaspar Island *. 188 ■ ■ Strait, currents 39 dangers northward and northwestward , 218 in southern approach. 180 directions 221-223 general remarks 179, 180 - — tides 42 winds and weather 25 Gatahang Islet 465 GayaBay..' 358 Harbor 353 Head 356 Island 352 Gebroeders Islands 93 Gelam Island 250 • Gelasa Rock ; 188 Gem Reef 441 General Elliot Reef 215 -Light 215 General navigation 1-19 502 INDEX. Page. Geni Gosong 93 Genting Island 242 Reef 103 George Banks 183 Reef 212 GerekReef 213 Gersek Island 193,200 Gezusters Islands, The 97 Gijang Gosong 93 Glasgow Bank 376 Gloria Reef 294 Gloucester Breakers 375 Goat Shoal 212 Gordon Patches 346 Gosong Asam Reef 212 Reef 213 Gosongs Reefs 120 Grace Reefs. See Karang Kawat. Grassy Point 489 Gravel Bank 241 Gray Reef 455 Great Channel 69 — — Danger Bank 397 Green Point 143 Greep Reefs 463 Greig Channel 247 Shoal, Middle 244 , North 244 ,South 244 Gresik Island 242 Grieve Reef 354 Growler Bank 346 Guhhins Reef 239 Rock 432 Gueritz Reef 354 Rock 370 Guhuan Islet, North 405 .East 405 Guliaaan Islet 431 Gunong Maras 176 Guntur, Malan 174 Gusong Baru Islet 237 Dilant Reef 458 Jong Islet 229 Serlang 238 Gusungan Islet 477 Gunong Sadok Sadok 364 Gurung Islands 245 Gwalia Shoal 243 H. Haaien Reef 181 Haarlem Island 126 Haji, Karang 161 Half Moon Shoal 373 Halloran Reef 455 Hambly Reef 472 Hamilton, Moimt 329 Hancock Shoal 181 Hand Rock 485 Hantu Island 256 Harbor Shoal 338 Shoals 487 Hardy Patch 442 Harris Reef 354 Hatton, Mount 438 Hawkins Reef 220 Haynes Shoal 287 Heel Reef 484 Hereward Reef 102 Hewitt, Mount 463 Shoals 194 Hewlett Reef 354 Hindostan Bank 170 Hippogrifte Rocks 180 Hog Point. See Varkenshuk. Hoog Island , 201 Islands 92 Hoom Island 126 Islands, The 121 Hordyk Shoal 119 Horse Rocks 211 Hout Islands 92 Howard Shoal 452 Hughes Shoal 284 Hydrograai Reef, East 214 (Montaran Islands) 238 Rock, West 214 Hyu, Malan 174 I. Igan Point 313 — -River 314 Indian Ocean, cyclones 22 monsoons 22 winds and weather 22 Ingaran Island 328 Spit 328 Ingram Reef 220 Inner Channel (Billiton Island) f 198 (Carimata Idands) 247 See Dutch Channel. Investigator Northeast Shoal 376 Shoal 375 Iris Shoal 345 Iron Duke Shoals... ■_■... ■ . . . . .... . . 320 IwanReef 220 INDEX. 503 J. Page. Jackson Reefs 289 Jaga Island 361 Jaga Ridge 329 Jajung Island 103 Jambatan Shoal 125 James Patch' 448 Shoal 315 Jamsetjee Shoal ; 243 Jana Shoal 127 Jangkulan Island 280 Jantai Islet 291 Jantur Shoal 121 Jarang Bank 149 Jason Rock 101 Java coast 69 Head 66 Reef 76 Sea, currents : . . 39, 96 monsoons 95 tidest 42, 96 winds and weather 26 Jawiel Reef 127 Jelaka Island. See Pulo Chilagin. Jering Bay 158 Jermee Reef 103 Jesselton 355 Harbor 354 Jessie Shoal 399 Jibuse Bay. See Bulu Bay. Jong Island 123 Johnston Rock 431 Ju Island 177 Juanta Islet 254 -Jumangin Shoal 202 Juruk, Karang 235 Justina Reef 239 K. Kabatlian River. iSeeMenggatal, The. Kabung, Pulo 270 Kahamkammam Islet 407 Kalabakang River 489 Kalagian Island 83 Kalampunian Island 368 Kalangbau Island 192 Kalapan Islands 185 Kalianda Road 87 Kalian Ledge 162 Pass 162 Tanjong 161 Light 161 Kalias River 333 Kali Islands 114 Kalmoa Islet 203 Kalumbayang, Harbor 79 Kalung Kalungun, Pulo 458 Kalutan Island 401 Point 401 Kamudy Rock 174 Kangalan, Point 97 Kapal, Karang 213 Kapala Tambelan 280 Kapalai Islet 481 Kapale, Pulo 466 Kapuas River, Great 266 Little 263 Karang Antu, village. See Bantam. Karang di Tenga Shoal 118 Karang Kia Reef 294 Karang Kawat 1 233 Karang Laut 118 Karang Pedis Selatan 217 , -^^^ Utara 217 Karbau River 253 Karra, Tanjong 156 Kasuaris Bay 68 Kate Rock 245 Katigi Point 368 Katila Islet 93 Katima Bongko. See Fourth Point Banka Strait. Katjangan Island 177 Katung Islet 254 KayuAra 283 Kebatu Island 293 Keboka 72 KechilReef 430 Kedio, Mount 252 Keeling Island, North 61 Islands (see Cocos) 21 Kelapa Island (see Deli Island) . . 92, 105 Kampit, Mount 230 Point 88 Kelemar Island 193 Kelmanbang Island 201 Kembung Islet 206 Kenam Point 108 Kendawangan River 251 Kennedy Bay 453 Kepahiang Island 278 Keramia Islets 227 Keran Island 231 504 INDEX. Page. Keranji, Karang. See George Reefs. Kerbou Shoal 122 Kerdau Islet 287 Kerkhof Island .• . 124 Keroya Reef. See Nassau Bank. Kestrel Rock 406 Shoal 430 Kesugian Point. See Third Point Banka Strait. Ketapang Island 233 ■ River 253 ■ Shoal 119 Ketugar Bank 212 Ketupai Islet 227 Keuchenius Reef 214 Keyser Bay 78 Kiamsan Point 336 Kiddle Reefs 462 Kidurong Point 315 Kiluang Harbor 80 Ximanis Bay 348 Biver 349,350 KinaBalu, Mount 364 Kinabatangan Biver 439 Kindana Hill 329 Klabat Bay 175 Klippige Shoals 186 Koba Light 211 Bead 211 Kombuis, Great, Islands 118 Little Island 119 Kota Agung 79 Koti Passage ' 288 Kotok, Great, Island 103 Little Island 104 Kraanvogel Island 87 Krakatoa Channel 90 Island 88 Kra Island 309 Kramat Islet , 93 Kranga Point 363 Krawang Islets 245 Kring, Karang 291 Kubur Island 85 Kudat Harbor 369 Settlement 371 Kuiper Island 125 Kukuban Cay 424 Kuli Babang 476 Kumbang Biver 255 Kumbong, Pulo. See Hoog Island. Kumpong Kumpong Island 478 Biver 478 Kumpul Island (see Bawal) 250 Kuraman Channel 336,339 Island 336 ^ Light 336 Kurier Beef. See Njela Reef. Kurina Biver 368 Kwala Binjei 293 Penya 349 Kwart-Vadem Beef , 227 Kwee Island 192 Kwop anchorage 306 L. Labian, Tanjong 451 Labu Point 153, 185 Light 185 Labuan, Gosong 94 Labuan Island 300, 334 Bock 403 LabukBay 432 Biver 433 Lagundi 81 Islands 81 Strait 82 Lahat Datu, directions for 456 town 456 Laian, Pulo 350 Laijang, Tanjong, banks off 217 Lajar, Tanjong. See First Point. Lalang Island 177 Lalari Point 154 Lamak Bay 461 Lamina Beef 291 Lampassan Island. 409 Lampong Bay 82 Lang Island 90, 105 Langaan Island 430 Langaa Island 469 Langir Island 201 Langkuas Island 206 Light 206 Lankayan Cay , 429 Lanrick Shoal , 219 La Place Strait 292 Larabe Shoal 181 Larapan Island 469 Latoan Island 407 Laurel Beef 295 Rock. 431 Laut, Karang Toti 283, 288 — ;- Pulo (see Toby Island) 295 — '- Reef 288 Lavender Bank. See Karang Juruk. INDEX. 505 Lawler Reef 466 Lawungan Islet 72 Learmouth Beef 472 Lehnert Reef 484 Leiden Island 127 Lekapo Reef 120 Leman Islands 243 Lemukutan, Pulo 269 Lenore Reef 238 , West , 238 Leonan Cay 427 Lepar Island 185 Strait 184 Liat Bay 216 Island 186 • Rocks 217 ■ Light 217 LibaiTan Island 431 Ligitan Channel 482 — Group 479 Islet 480 Reefs 483 Lihiman Island 430 Lima Islands 199 Limbang River 333 Lingang River 229 Linge Shoal 250 Lin gi san Reef 424 Lising Island 242 Littledale Shoal 321 Little Fortune Island 78 Reef 466 Lizzie Webber Shoal 379 Lobong Itam Creek 112 ■ Tanjong , 316 Logok Island 97 Long Island. See Mendanau Island. Lord Auckland Shoal 377 Louisa Reef - . 318 Shoal 405 Low Island. See Bakau Island; Midai. Loxdale Shoal 398 Lubuk Bay 87 Luconia Shoal, North 318 — South 317 Lucipara Channel 170 — directions for 170, 171 ■ Island 142 Point 143 Luctor Reef 239 Lumbucan Channel 396 Island 395 Lum bang Shoal ' 119 Lumpur River. 112 Lundu River 301 Lupar River 310 Lynn Bank 99 M. Mabul Island 481 Passage 482 Macclesfield Channel 184 directions for 189-192 Mackenzie Grieve Shoal 346 Madai, Sungi 463 Madau Reef 230 Mafsie Cape 413 Maganting Island 466 Maggie Reef 405 Magpie Bank •. 441 Mahitan Island 84 Maiga Islet 469 Maja Island 255 River 256 Majinkil Islet 466 Malan Tete 214 Malang Kechil 206 Malawalle Island 418 '- — eastern dangers 419 ' Malinsono Island 387 Malu Peak ., 320 Malu Reefs 285 Mambahenauhan Island 422 Mamelon Hummock 154 Mamutik Island 351 Mandiralla Island 424 Mangalum Island 356 Manggar River 229 Mangkassar Banks 495 Mangkok Besar Shoal 204 Mangkut Island 249 Mangoman Island , 81 Mangsee Channel 399 Da'nger Bank 398 • Great Reef 399 , South Island 399 Mantabuan Islet 468 Mantanani Islands ■ 364 Mantangule Islands 387 Manukan Island 351 Maranai Island. See Napier. Maranas Islet 447 Marawang 215 Marchesa Bay 428 Maria Auguatina Bank 64 506 INDEX. Marie Louise Shoal 378 Mariveles Reef 375 Mark Hill. 457 Marowop River 440 Marudu Bay 369 River 413 Mary Rock 178 Masar Islands 196 Masa Tiga Island 256 Masuji River 109 Mathilde Rock 124 Mataking, Pulo 466 Mayang Reef, karang 104 Mayne Rock 363 May Williams Shoal 407 McKinlay Reef 472 Meander Shoal 420 Medusa Reef 82 Meinderts Shoal 119 Meladang Island 245 Melalu, Tanjong 175 Melau, Pulo 412 Meleidong Island 229 Melobong River 416 Melvill Bank 166 Melville Cape 390 Light 391 Mempawah, Sungi 267 Menjangan Point.. 110 Menkado Island 88 Menkabong Bluff 358 River 358 Menali Island. See Dokan Island. Menani River, The 350 Mendanan Island 200 Mendarik Island 283 Mendawa River 255 Menggatal River 356 Mengirang Islands 279 Mengkudu Rock 252 Menscheneter Island 117 —Reef 117 Mentawa Reef 211 Mentigi Point 156 Menumbing Hill 159 Menyumbang Shoal 121 Merah, Karang 214 Merai Islands 228 Reefs 229 Merajah Island 238 Merak Island 75 Merak Island, Little 75 Page. Meranti Island 177 Merapie Shoal. 170 Meridian Reef 447 Merlin, Trusan 493 Merrett Reefs 463 Merudung Island 285 Mew Island 69 Midai Island 289 Middle Channel 398 Grounds 120 Pass 195 Shoals 193 Patches 345 Reef 181, 447 ^hoals 397 Middleburg Island 119 Minna Reefs 422 Mintano Island 242 Minto Mount 252 Point 252 Miri River 316 Light 316 Misan Misan Reef 458 Mischief Reefs 378 Mitford Harbor 409 MoUeangan Island 408 Monmouth Shoals 421 Mondong Pulo 158 Monnikendam Reef 126 Montaran Islands 236 Moorhen Reefs 462 Moratabas River, entrance 304 Mosquito Rock 423 Mostyn, Mount 463 Moysey Shoals 487 Muara Bar 326, 327 Harbor 326 Island 323 Spit 324 Muka 314 — River 314 Muligi Patches 421 Mulut Island 232 Mundo Bay 158 Peak 159 Munggu Rock 103 Muntok 162, 163 Bank 161 — — directions 163 Lights 162 — Reef 215 Murung Point 185 INDEX. 507 N. Nado Island 200 Naga Reef 196 NanggaBay 81 Island (Montaran Islands) 236 — Islands 156, 157 Light 157 Nangka Point 152 • Light 152 Nanshan Island 379 Napier Island 237 Nassau Bank 126 Nassi Channel 201 Nasubatta Channel 395 Island 394 Reef 394 Natuna Island, Great 290 Islands, general remarks 284 North 295 -^ South 284 Neerstuk Shoal 128 Nemesis Bank 167 Neptunus Reef 127 Niah, River 315 NiangReef 213 Nibung Hill 98 Island 243 Nichols Reef 466 Niger Bank 275 Njela Reef 198 Nob Islet 365 Nonokong Island, East 496 Noor2dek Shoal 215 Normanby Bank 441 Nonnanhiurst Reef 354, 472 North Harbor 401 Haycock 289 Hill Rock 363 Island {see Kelemar Island). . 97, 193 Patches 397 — Viper Shoal 375 Watcher Island 100 ■ Light 100 Northeast Island 104 Northwesters 24 Northwest Shoal , 389 Shoals 397 Nosong Patch 347 Point 347 Shoals 346 Nunuyon Derat 433 Laut 433 Nymphe Reef 439 O. Page. Omadal Islet 474 Omapui Islet 445 Omega Reef 100 Onrust Island 125 Reef 252 Ontario Reef 240 Osterly Channel 242 Otterspool Rock 320 Outer Channel, directions 130-132 , islets and dangers on south side 120 Shoal 337, 417 Oyster Rocks 328 P. Padang Bank 495 Reef 181 Tikar River 256 Padaa Bay 333 Riyer 333 Padukan Island 328 Pagaasan Island 409 Pajong, Karang 100 Palawan Island, currents 40 , winds and weather 30 Passage 372 , dangers near fairway 317 Palembang 147 — — • Lightvessel 145 River 145 Palemparan Island 105 Palmer Reefs 214 Palo River 312 Paloh, Sungi 273 Pamangkat, village 272 Pamunggutan Island 85 Panaitan Island. See Princes. Panalang Reef 93 Panchalirang, Little 104 Great. See Northeast Island. Pandan, Bukit 159 Pandannan Island 386 Paneeky Besar ■ 277 -^ Ketchil 276 Pangong Point. See Lalari Point. Panguan Islet 448 Panjang, Bukit 159 di Laut 121 Hill 154 — Island 105,290 (Banka) 213 Pulo (Natuna Islands) 287 508 INDEX. Panjang Reef 72 Strait 290 Sungi 86 Panter Reefs 71 Papan Islands 245 Papar River, The 350 Paperak Idand 238 PapoUe Island 71,72 Pappan Island 337 Light 338 Pare Joie Reef 219 Pari Island 122 Parmasang Range 156 Pasalat Reef 469 Pasaran Island 85 Pasir Islet. 212 Pasop Reef 128 Passage Reef 424 Passages, directions 44-56 Singapore to Manila, Palawan route, directions 380-385 Patanunam Island 409 Patapan Island 81 Patongong Islet 387 Pawan River 253 Payne Rock 448 Payung Island , 122 Lights 122 Mount 67 Peaked Rock 328 Pearson Reef 379 Pedada Bay 82 Pegasus Reef 439 Pejamu Island 279 Pejinab Reef 118 Pelapi Islands 246 Peling Islet. See Pulo Ayam. Pelong Rocks 321 Pemain, Pulo 156 Penambun Islet 249 Penata Besar 270 ■ Kechil 270 Penau Island 278 Penebangan Island 246 Pengibu Island 284 Pennsylvania Shoals 376 Penungul Reefs 291 Penyusu Point 175 Peper Bay 81 Pepper Bay 71 Perak, Pulo 416 Perawan, Tanjong 414 Pergam Island 185 Papre. Perhantuan Island 287 Perlak Shoal 201 Perlang Bank 210 Pesaguan River 253 Petrel Rock 418 Pharus Reef 211 Philippine Islands, storm signals ... 38 — ■ , tides 43 • ■ , winds and weather. . r. . . 36 Pigeon Island 231 Pigmy Shoal , 300 Pilang Reef 103 Pinang Seribu Island 278 Pindasan River 363 Pine Point Shoals..-. 345 PipaReef 127 Pirate Point 412 Pisang Hill : . . . 319 Plompong Island 353 Pock, Mount 478 Polompong Point 323 Pom Pom, Pulo 467 Pontang Point 115 Pontianak River. See Little Kapuas. road 264 — town 265 Pontian River 149 Po Point Light 303 Port Refuge 60 Postillion Rocks 289 Powell Rock 415 Preston Shoal 361 Channel 68 Island 67 Priok Rocks 128 Protet Reef, East 234 — , West 234 Puan, Pulo 468 Pudsey Dawson Dangers, The 421 Pudsey Reefs ^ 472 Puhawang Island 83 Pulo Ayam Islet 200 Besar 154 Light 154 Pundu Bay 83 Pungur Besar, Sungi 263 Puni, Tanjong 159 Purdie Patches 447 Purmerend Bank 125 Island 125 Shoal 125 Pyramid Hill 464 Island. See Buan Island. INDEX. 509 R. rage. Raja Basa Road 88 Raja, Tanjong 215 Rajang River 311 Rambler Banks 329 Ramos Island 389 Ramsay Point Shoals 338 Randajan, Pulo 269 Rangat Islet 102 Reefs 102 Rashleigli Reef 472 Ratal Bay 84 Ray Bank 398 Reed Bank 378 Ren6 Shoal 440 Reigersdaal Shoal 125 Reyne Shoal 361 Richards Reef 464 Riddells Reef 448 Ridge Point 416 Riding River 112 Rifleman Reefs 221 Rock 403 Rimau Island 93 KechU 93 Ringang Bay 85 Ringit Island 104 Roach Reefs 483 Rob Roy Rock 245 Roberts Rock..., 215 Rocky Point (Banka Island). See Labu Point. Ridge 71 Rodger Rock 280 Rodney Mundy Shoal 359 Rond Island 82 Rotan Island 234 Rotterdam Island (see also Langir Is- land) 124, 201 Roughton Reef 394 Round Shoal : 170 Routh Shoal. See Seahorse Shoal. Royal Captain Shoal. 373 Charlotte Reef 318 Royalist Haven 287 Rock.. 439 Rusukan Islands 336 Rynlands Reef 127 S. Sabankat Islet 468 Sabina Shoals 376 Saddle Hill 478 Page. Saddle Island. See Kalangbau Island. Islands, The = 459 Sadong River 310 Sadung (South) Island 237 Sail Tree 153 Saima Point 489 Sak Point 361 Saka Island 82 Sakar Island 454 Salakan Islet 468 Salet Jaran, light beacons 146 SaUngsingan Island 399 Salira Islands 114 Salor Island 293 Saluting, Batu Malan 232 Samak Point 229 Samarang Bank.'. 841 Point 403 Sambar Light vessel 249 Point 248,249 Sambas River, Great 271 — —.Little 272 — town 272 Sampadian Island 301 Sampanmangio Point 368 Samson Patches 407 Sand Cay 397 Sand Island (see also Selemar Island) 181 Sandakan 435 — — Harbor 434 SandUands Rock 370 — Light 371 Sandringham Reef 187 Sandy Island 427 Sangian Sira, Cape 67 Santubong River, entrance 308, 309 Sapangar Bay 355 — Island 355 Saracen Bank 357 Saranga, Pulo 459 Sarawak 299,310 Sarawak River, approach 302 directions 305,306 Sarebas River 311 Saribu, Karang 159 Satang Island 301 Satu Island 177 Sau Reef 120 Saundal Bay 36O Sawi Island 252 Say, Mount 329 Schaarvogel Islands 233 Schuck Reef 422 510 INDEX. Page. Schiedam Island 124 Scotia Reef. . . - 212 Scout Patch 320 Sea Rocks 91 Seahorse Breakers 318 Shoal 374 Sebeei Channel 90 Island 90 Sebidung Uma 165 Sebuku Island 91 Secam Island 388 Second Point (Banka Strait) 144 — (Java) 70 Sedanan Island 292 • town 293 Sedua Besar 282 Islet ■. 293 Segama River '. 439 Segannen River 453 Sekampung River 98 Sekapal Island 88 Sekapong Point 107 Sekatung Island 295 Sekati Island 105 Selanduk Island 229 Seleman Rock 78 Selemar Island 192 SeUu Island 197 Seluan Island 293 Seluas, Pulo 270 Semangka Bay 78 Semapi Reef 293 Sembilan Islet 236 Sembuni Reefs 285 Semeyor Islands. See Kalapan Is- lands. Sempang River 255 Sempit Reef 104 Semuin Island 294 Sendulang Besar 282 Sentry Bank 44] Senua Islet 291 — Strait 291 Sepilah Reef 122 Seputi River 107 Seraia Island 287 Serasan Island 286 — — Passage 286 Serdang Point 108 Reef 288 Serudong River 491 Senitu Island 241 Light 242 Page. Seven Fathom Bank 108 Islands. See Tuju Islands. Severn Shoal 219 Shahbundar Bank 99 Shea Shoal, Northeast 375 Southwest 375 Sheppard Reef 472 Shoal Point 453 Shoalwater Island 182 Light 182 Shoe Island. See Kebatu. Si Amil Island 480 Siadung Island 230 Siagut Shoal 401 Siantu, Tanjong 232 Si ba ung Reef 430 Sibetik Island 488 Sibrandi Reef 97 Sibu, town 312 Sibuan Islet 469 SibukoBay 473 River 495 Sibutu Islands 444, 445 Passage 444 Reefs 444 Sidongal, Tanjong 470 Sierra Blanca Reef 318 Sigalong River 464 Tnisan 471 Sijuk, .town 232 Silam Harbor 457 , Mount 457 village 461 Silapag Passage 475 Silibukan River 453 SUimpopon River 492 Silingaan Island 431 Silk Island 417 Rock 320 Siluag Islet 448. Silumpat Island 465 Silungan Islet 478 Simaddel Island'. 425 Simanahan Channel 397 Reef..: 397 Simatahan River 492 Simpoma, settlement 476 Sin Cowe Island 379 Sina Islet 97 Sinalong, Mount 464 Sindo Islet 92 Singkawang Bay 271 , town 271 INDEX. 511 Sinjataan Island 353 Sinini, Point 70 Sipandan Islet 483 Sipang, Tanjong 302 Sipankat Islet 445 Sipindung Cay 426 Sipit River 464 Sir James Brooke Range 364 Sireh Island 246 Sirik, Cape , 313 Light 313 Sitinjan, Pulo 268 Sittard Reef 219 Skertchley, Mount 462 ■ Point 462 Slan 156 Bay 156 Sleepy Bay 300 Slime Rock 361 Small Island 239 Smit Brucks Shoal 215 Smits Bank 166 Soai Soaiun Bay 457 Sobatan, Kaiang 279 South Harbor 402 Haycock Island 285 Hill Rock 351 Keeling Islands 57 Watcher Island 105 Southeast Shoals 398 Sowerby Reef 232 Sperwer Reef '. 211 Squalls 36 Sri Blitong Rock 205 St. Barbe Island. See Paneeky Besar. St. Esprit Group 277 St. Joseph Reef 365 St. NicolasPoint 76 Shoal 128 St. Paul, Mount 152 St. Pierre Islands 285 Light 285 Rock 285 Standard time 21 Stanton Channel, directions 168-170 general remarks 165,166 SteileHuk 94 Steil Island 242 Stolze Channel, directions 208-210 , general remarks 195, 207 Stone Point 494 Straggler, The, Island 419 Stroom Rocks 76 Struisvogel Rocks 118 Subi Besar 288 Kechil 288 Light 289 Sugara Island 350 Sui Reef 103 Suka Island 246 Sukadana 254 Sulaman River 358 Sullivan Rocks 213 Sulu Sea, currents 40 tides 43 winds and weather 36 Siilug Island 351 Sumatra, coast of 96, 150 tides 42 winds and weather 24 Sumatras 24 Sumbing Reefs 220 Shoal. See Lanrick Shoal. Sunchal Island 82 Sunda Strait, currents 39, 66 ■ , gpneral description 65 northern shore 77 ■ — to Banka Strait, coast. 105-107 ■ — directions... 112,113 ■ • to Batavia, coast 113, 114 — working through in north- west monsoon 94 — Point 324 — Spit 324 Sunday Bank 441 Sunk Rock 361 Sunken Barrier Shoals 865 Rock 193 Sunsang, Sungi. See Palembang River. lights 145 village 145 Surong Gading Island 241 Susuh Shoal 127 Swallow Bank 99 — -Reef 319 Swirl Patch 487 T. Tabauwan Islands 465 Table mil 315 Tabuan Island 79 Taganak , 432 — Patches 432 Tagassan Bay 476 Tagipil Island 428 512 INDEX. Taka River 415 Talamtan Bank 442 Talan Islands, The 301 Tallack Reef 246 Tamarind Island. See Sebesi. Tambaga, Karang 155 — Creek 282 Tambelan Island 281 — Islands, The 279 Tambisan Island 440 TambuUan Reef 423 Tambuyukon, Mount 364 Tampassuk River 363 Tamping Bay 78 Tanah Robu Point 151 Tanara, town 116 Tando Bulong, Trusan , 475 — directions 476, 477 Tandul Shoal 121 TangahBay 360 Tangka, Mount 83 Tangusu Bay 440 Tanj Bungaan Island 424 Tanjong. See proper name. — Priok Harbor 133-135 Putus Island 83 Tankil Island 85 Tapa. See Second Point (Banka Strait). Tapok Point 228 Tarrembu Bank 75 Tatagan Island 467 Tatau Mount 314 Point 314 Tawao, settlement 486 Teali Reef 212 Tebon Island 278 Tedong Point 158 Tega Channel 345, 347 — Island 347 Tegabua Islet 463 Tegal Island 84 TekongGemok Rock 236 Tela Reef: 198 Telegraph 22 Telegraaf Reef... 128 Telewiwi shoal 127 Telak Betong 85 Telok Brugu Ill Selahang 291 Temaju, Pulo 269 Templar Bank 377 Tempuling Islet 238 I Ten Foot Rock 418 Tenga, Karang 203 River 415 Tengah, Karang 280 Tengnagel 124 Teranjun, Tanjong 268 Tetawi Bank 211 Islet 212 Third Point (Banka Strait) 144 (Java) 71 Thomas Shoal, First 376 , Second 376 ,Third 378 Thousand Islands 101 Three Feet Shoal 196 Thwartway Island 74 Tibakkan Cay 423 Tidung Island, Great : 121 , Little 121 Tiga Islet (Banguey Channel) 403 Islets 91 Reef (Billiton Island) 198 Shoal 119 Tigabu Island 423 Tigasamil Spit 371 Tijong Reef 219 Tikus Island 202 , Pulo 432 Timbu Mata Island ' 470 — , Tanjong '. 470 Timor Bank 210 Tims Island 82 Rock 88 Tinamandukan 349 Tinagat, Batu 486 Tinjil Island. See Trowers Island. Tinson Reef , •... 351 Tobo All Bay 152 Tokong Belajar 283 Boro Rocks 294 Burung 294 Kemudi 283 Mengirang 280 Uwi 283 Tompiil Island 93 Tongara Shoal 118 Tongkali 80 Tongue Islands 242 Toppers Island 76 Toty Island 178 Transit Rock. 164 Tree Reef 219 Trek Reef 198 INDEX. 513 Page. Trident Slioal 337 Trusan River 324 Trowers Island 67 Tuan Reef ; 199 Tuaran River 358 Tuju Islands 177, 275 Tukonkembang Island 177 Tulang Bank 108 Bawang River 108 Tuman, Karang 295 Tumindao 445 Tunku Point 451 Turner Patch 452 Turtle Island 348 Rock 301 • Shoal 181 Twee Fathom Reef 182 Twilight Reef 244 Two Brothers Islands 99 Two Fathoms Rock 321 Typhoons , 31 U. Ubi Besar. See Rotterdam Island. — ■ — Kechil. See Schiedam Island. Rock 124 Udar Island 356 IJlar Island 243 ■ , Tanjong 164 ■ Light 164 Reefs 164 TJIu, Sungi 291 Umpang Islets 227 Reefs 227 Umpoh Shoals 364 Usukan Bay 361 . Island 362 Usumbra Reef 93 Unarang Rock 495 Undaunted Rock 336 Untung Java Reef - . - 118 Uwi, Pule --- 282 V. Vader Smit Shoal 128 Van Dorth Shoal 128 Vansittart Shoals 183 Varkenshuk Point 88 90045—15 33 Vega Reefs 220 Verlaten Island 90 Vernon Bank 341 Victoria Harbor 335, 339, 340 northern approach 340 south channel 338 Patches 320 Victory Island. See Pengibu. Viola Reef 396 Viper Shoal 319 Vlakke Hoek 77 Vogehiest Islands. 244 Voorwyk Reefs 455 W. Walton Reef 472 Warren Hastings Reefs 218 Reef 239 Wanderer Reef 459 Shoal -. 422 Weather, general 22 Webb Shoal 479 Welcome Bay 70 Welstead Shoal 276 West Island 102 York Island 378 White Island 233 Rock {see Tokong Mengirang) . . . 197 Rocks 367 Bay 367 Whitewashed Point 186 Whittingham Reef 239 Wild Pigeon Reefs 220 Wilson Bank 184 Winchester Shoal 346 Winds, general 22 Winsor Rock 77 Witti Rock 370 Woodhall Reefs 458 Woody Island 413 Wullerstcrf, Mount 479 Wyatt, Mount 463 Z. Zebra Reefs 415 Zephyr Rock 233 Zuid Reef 198 Zutphen Islands 92 SAILING DIRECTIONS, MANUALS, AND TABLES PUBLISHED BY THE UNITED STATES HYDRO- GRAPHIC OFFICE. Note. — The only books sold by the Hydrogi-aphic Office are listed below. Other nautical publications must be obtained feom the department of the Government by ■which they are published, or from the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. Cata- logue No. 73 100 108A 108B 108C 108D 99 128 129 130 88 89 84 96 122 123 124 125 126 144 149 SAILING DIRECTIONS. Price. NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA, WEST INDIES. Newfoundland and Labrador. Third edition. 1909 Gulf and River St. Lawrence. Third edition. 1908 Lake Superior and Saint Marys River. 1906 Lake Michigan, Green Bay, and Strait of Mackinac. 1906 . . . Lake Huron and the St. Clair and Detroit Rivers. 1907 Lakes Erie and Ontario, and the St. Lawrence River to Mon- treal. 1907 Lake Supplement. 1908. (Supplement to Nos. 108A, 108B, 1080, andlOSD) Bay of Fundy, Southeast Coast of Nova Scotia, and South and East Coasts of Cape Breton Island. Third edition. 1906 West Indies Pilot. Vol. I. Bermudas, Bahamas, and the Greater Antilles. 1913 West Indies Pilot. Vol. II. Lesser Antilles and Coast of Venezuela. 1914 Central America and Mexico Pilot (East Coast). From Gal-, linas Point, Columbia, to the Rio Grande River. (Under revision) East Coast of South America. Third edition. 1904 Do. Supplement. 1908 West Coast of South America, including Magellan Strait, Tierra del Fuego, and outlying islands. Third edition. 1905 Do. Supplements. 1909 and 1912 Mexican and Central American Pilot (Pacific Coast). From the United States to Colombia, including the Gulfs of Cali- fornia and Panama. 1915 Coast of British Columbia, including Juan de Fuca Strait, Van- couver, and Queen Charlotte Islands. (Under revision) CHINA, JAPAN, EAST INDIES. Sakhalin Island, Asiatic Pilot. Vol. I. East Coast of Siberia, and Korea. First edition. 1909 Asiatic Pilot. Vol. II. The Japan Islands. First edition. 1910. Asiatic Pilot. Vol. III. Coast of China, Yalu River to Hong- kong, and Island of Formosa. First edition. 1909 Asiatic Pilot. Vol. IV. Singapore Strait to Hongkong Asiatic Pilot. Vol. V. Sunda Strait and the Southern ap- proaches to China Sea, with West and North Coasts of Borneo and off-lying dangers EUROPE. British Islands Pilot. Vol. I. South Coast of England and the English Channel British Islands Pilot. Vol. VI. The Faeroes, Shetlands, and Orkney Islands, and the North and East Coasts of Scot- land - ■ $LO0 LOO .45 .60 .60 .60 .15 LOO .60 .60 1.20 .15 .80 .20 .60 .45. .60 .60 .90 .90 .90 .90 515 516 PrBLICATIONS OP HYDEOGEAPHIC OFFICE. Cata- logue No. 150 136 140 141 135 132 133 102 105 30 31 32 9:11 71 120 127 90 95 103 107 114 131 117 87 SAILING DIRECTIONS. EUROPE— Continued . British Islands Pilot. Vol. VII. East Coasts of Scotland and England from Fife Ness to North Foreland Norway Pilot. From Feje Fiord to North Cape, thence to Jacob River ; Scandinavia Pilot, Vol. I. Bergen to the Kattegat. 1915..... Scandinavia Pilot, Vol. II. Kattegat to Cape Arkona, including The Sound, Great and Little Belts, and Kiel Bay. 1915 North Sea Pilot. Eastern Shores from Dunkerque to the Skaw. North Coast of Prance Pilot. Ushant to Dunkerque. 1915 Bay of Biscay Pilot. Ushant to Torinana. 1915 AFRICA AND ATLANTIC ISLANDS. North Atlantic Islands, and Africa from Cape Spartel to Cape Palmas. Fourth edition. 1908 West Coast of Africa, from Cape Palmas to Cape of Good Hope, and the adjacent islands. Third edition. 1908 LIGHT LISTS. List of Lights. Vol.1. The West India and Pacificlslands, and coasts of North and South America excepting the United States. 1915 List of Lights. Vol. II. South and East Coasts of Asia and Africa, and the East Indies, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. 1914 List of Lights. Vol. III. West Coast of Africa and Europe, and the Mediterranean Sea, including the Adriatic and Black and Sea of Azov. 1914 MANUALS, TABLES, ETC. American Practical Navigator. Originally by Nathaniel Bow- ditch, LL. D., etc. Revised 1914. (Including the "Useful Tables") Useful Tables from the American Practical Navigator. (Being Part II of No. 9) Azimuth Tables, giving the True Bearings of the Sun at Intervale of Ten Minutes between Sunrise and Sunset, for Parallels of Latitude between 61° N. and 61° S. 1909. (Can also be applied to the moon, planets, and stars aa long as their declina- tions do not exceed 23 N. or S.) The Azimuths of Celestial Bodies Whose Declinations Range from 24° to 70°, for Parallels of Latitude Extending to 70° from the Equator. 1907'. Star Identification Tables, giving simultaneous values of declina- tion and hour angle for values of latitude, altitude, and azimuth ranging from 0° to 80° in latitude and altitude and 0° to 180° in azimuth. 1909. Development of Great Circle Sailing. 1899 Average Form of Isolated Submarine Peaks, etc. 1890 Submarine Cables. 1892 Wrecks and Derelicts in the North Atlantic Ocean, 1887-1898, inclusive. 1894 Contributions to Terrestrial Magnetism. 1897 Cuban Longitude Report of 1911-12 General catalogue of charts and books published by the U. S. Hydrographic Office. , Table of Distances, 1912. (About 5,000 shortest navigable dis- tances by sea) '. International Code of Signals. 1914 Price. $0.90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 LOO LOO .30 .30 2.25 L25 100 L50 .75 LOO .30 .30 .10 .30 .10 .50 .15 1.50 PUBLICATIONS OP H i'DROGHAPHIC OFFICE. 517 REMITTANCE. Orders for books or charts, when addressed to the Hydrographic Office, should be accompanied with Post-Office Money Order made payable to HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE. Prices are fixed, under the law, at the cost of printing and paper, and no reductions are made on orders for large quantities. 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They are supplied with' the latest information and publications pertaining to navi- gation, and masters and officers of vessels are cordially invited to visit them, and consult freely the officers in charge. Officer hours, 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. Note. — -By authority of the governor of the Panama Canal some of the duties of branch hydrographic offices are performed by the captain of the port at Cristobal and the captain of the port at Balboa. A full set of reference charts and sailing directions may be consulted at these offices, and shipmasters may receive the pilot charts, notice to mariners, and hydrographic bulletin in return for nlarine and meteorological data reports. Observers' blanks and comparisons of navigational instruments may be obtained at the same time. AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE PUBLICATIONS. IN THE UNITED STATES AND ISLANDS. Aberdeen, AVash The Evans Drug Co. Balboa Heights, Canal Zone.. The Captain of the Port. Baltimore, Md John E. 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LIST OF AGENTS. 519 Washington, D. W. H. Lowdermilk & Co., 1424 F Street XW. Wm. Ballantyne & Sons, 1409 F. Street ^'^^^ Brentanoe, F and Twelfth Streets NW. Wilmington, N. Thoa. F. Wood, 1-5 Princess Street. AGENTS ABROAD. Belize, British Honduras. . . .A. E. Morlan. Berlin, Germany Dietrich Eeimer, Wilhelmstrasse 29, SW. 48. Canso, N. S A. N. Whitman & Son. Habana, Cuba Hillebrand y Mencio, 10 Mercaderes. Halifax, N. S Creighton & Marshall, Ordnance Square. Hamburg, Germany Eckardt & Meastorft, Steinhfot I. Montreal, Canada Harrison & Co., 53 Metcalfe Street. Port Hawkesbury, C. B. I., N. S Alexander Bain. Quebec, Canada J. T. Moore & Co., 118-120 Mountain Hill. St. John, N. B J. & A. McMillan, 98 Prince William Street. O j! •j i '•■■■■■'■■■: 1 1 ■