WINDOW GAMDININC ^-xi V. ><; \y '■'t'./tf LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVER5^' 3 1924 05 784 258 'A TOWN WINDOW GARDEN. Here the scarlet-flowered TropEeolum lobbianum is used as an edgjing to tlie boxes with white ma-rguerites behind. Simple and effective. WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. The Cultivation and Propagation of Foliage and Flowering Plants in Rooms, Window Boxes, Balconies and Verandahs ; also on Roofs, and on the Walls of the House. By T. W. SANDERS, F.L.S., F.R.H.S. (Knight of the First Class of the Royal Order of Wasa, Sweden.) Editor of "Amateur Gardening," and Author of "Alphabet of Gardening," " Encyclopaedia of Gardening," " Vegetables and their Cultivation," "Amateur's Greenhouse," "Flower Garden," " Lawns, Greens, etc.," " Bulbs and their Cultivation," etc. Illustrated. LONDON : W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE. 148 & 149. Aldersgate Street, E.G. London '■ Printed by W. H. & L. Collingbidge. 148 & 149, Aldersgate Street, e.g. A FOREWORD. Window and indoor gardening has long been a popular and fascinating hobby with those who possess an enthusiastic love of floriculture, and who have no facilities for indulging in the latter pursuit except in the home, on the window-sill, or in the balcony or verandah. The interest in this phase of gardening is, I find, extending very considerably, and, consequently, information as to the most suitable plants to grow, and how to grow and manage them, is being eagerly sought for. To meet this demand I have written the present volume, with the object of imparting simple instructions on the cultivation, propagation, and general management of flower- ing and foliage plants adapted for the decoration of the home, the window-box, balcony, and verandah. I have, as far as space would permit, dealt with all phases ')f indoor plants, including such uncommon but very interest- ing types as orchids and cacti, terns in cases, and insecti- vorous plants. Then I have also treated the subjects of window-sill, balcony, verandah, and roof gardening with fulness, and, I hope, presented the reader with a wealth B 2 4 A FOREWORD. of information that will enable Iiim to pursue his favourite hobby with success. Nor have I overlooked the fact that it is of equal importance to study the question of adorning the exterior walls of the house with vegetation, and so I have included a couple of chapters dealing with the subject. The table of contents on the next page will show the variety of subjects included in the volume. If the advice given herein be carefully studied, the window and indoor gar- dener should have no difficulty in obtaining a great deal of pleasure out of floriculture in the home, on the window-sill, or the balcony. The reader desirous of making himself more fully ac- quainted with the cultural details and modes of propagation of the various kinds of plants described herein will find tlie infoi-mation in our "Alphabet of Gardening " and " Encyclo- pedia of Gardening," issued by the publishers of the present work. 1910. T. W. S. CONTENTS. Introduction FAOB 7 Chap Chap. Part I.— WINDOW AND BALCONY GARDENING. I. Window Boxes n. Soil for Window Boxes ■ni. Window Boxes in Sdmmee IV. Window Boxes in Autumn V. Window Boxes in Winter VI. Window Boxes in Spring VII. Ferns in Window Boxes VIII. Balcony Gardens IX. Verandah Gardens X. Roof Gardens XI. Window Cases Part II.— INDOOR PLANTS. I. Foliage Plants foe Rooms II. Flowering Plants for Rooms III. BiTLEs FOR Rooms IV. Feens in Rooms V. Feuiting Plants foe Rooms ' ... VI. Japanese Trees foe Rooms Vir. Cacti and Succulents for Rooms 10 13 14 26 28 30 3,5 38 43 47 57 61 64 73 81 90 93 97 CONTENTS. Chap. Chap. VIII. Oechids for Rooms IX. InsECTIVOKOUS PLANT.S X. Roses for Rooms ... XI. Hanging Baskets ... XII. Novel Plant Culture XIII. Fragrant Plants XIV. House Gardens XV. Fire-Place Decoration Part III.— MANAGEMENT, I. Watering Indoor Plants II. PoTTiNc; Indoor Plants III. Feeding Indoor Plants IV. Health of Plants ... V. Propagation of Plants VI. Pests and Ailments PAGE 102 104 108 110 112 116 118 126 129 131 138 141 145 151 Part IV.— WALL GARDENING. Chap. I. Culture of Climbers on House Walls ,, II. Climbers and Shrubs for Walls 156 161 Chap. Index Part V.— FLORAL DECORATION. I. Introductory Remarks II. Flowers in Rooms 111. Table Decoration' 169 170 182 188 INTRODUCTION. Gardenikg in all its phases is, as Lord Bacon has truly said, '' the purest of liuman pleasures, and the greatest re- freshment to the spirit of man," and this is especially true in the case of window and indoor gardening. No hobby and no recreation ever devised by the wit of man has captivated the heart and mind of man or woman, or yielded such pro- found and real pleasure to its devotees, as the ancient art and craft of horticulture. If cue may believe writers of centuries ago, our forebears were quite as keen and enthu- siastic lovers of flowers as we are at the present day, and grew them largelj- for the decoration of their old lattice windows. Window and indoor gardening is a phase of floriculture which specially appeals to those who dwell in town, city, and suburb, where there is little, if any, space available for a garden. There, often under the most uncongenial condi- tions, the cultivation of plants has to be carried out in the home, on the window-sill, balcony, or verandah. And it has astonished us exceedingly, in the course of our rambles in the byewa3-s of the metropolis, to observe the skill shown, and the success obtained, in the cultivation of window gar- dening. It is, moreover, highly gratifying to note that the taste for this delightful hobby is gradually increasing an- nually, tlianks to the efforts of local authorities, who, by distributing seeds or plants and offering prizes, have done so niucli to encourage the art. We observe with great satisfaction the efforts that have been and are being made in our leading cities and towns to encourage the cultivation of window plants by school chil- 8 INTRODUCTION. dren. Sheffield, more particularlj-, has done yeoman service in that direction, their annual exhibition of spring bulbs grown in pots being -the largest of its kind in the world, and representing something like 10,000 exhibits. Again, we are glad to know that school teachers are taking a keen interest A SuNKY Window Gahden. The sides of the windows are decorated with roses and clematises and the sills with boxes filled with zonal pelargoniums, petunias, etc. A pretty, neat and effective arrangement. in decorating the school windows and rooms with plants, and in that way educating the scholars to appreciate and love the beauties of plant life. Everyone admits that a love of flowers, the most beau- INTRODUCTION. 9 tiful of God's works, has a direct tendency to improve the morals of the people generally, and it has been well and truly said that "good morals and good flowers go together." It may almost be regarded as a truism that wherever a man takes a keen interest in his window garden, and the wife in the plants grown indoors, happiness and love reign supreme. The g-ood example set by parents will have its due effect upon the children ; the love of flowers will be gradually instilled in their j-outhful minds, for the love of Nature, as illustrated . by plant life, is co-existent with the infant's dawn of consciousness, and as lasting as life, for as the .twig is bent so will it grow. But we must cease this moralising, and say that, apart from the latter aspect, there is a good deal of pleasure to be derived from window and indoor gardening. 'The man or woman who wants a healthy hobby, and to add to the attrac- tiveness of the home, cannot do better than convert their window-sills and balconies into miniature gardens, plant them with beautiful flowers and shrubs, cultivate them in- telligently, lovingly, and skilfully, and in due course reap ■ the well-earned reward of a harvest of floral .'splendour. Yet more. The delicate invalid who cannot do outdoor gar- dening may derive untold pleasure and enjoyment in the comfortable atmosphere of his or her room by cultivating plants, ordinary, rare, or curious, in cases or otherwise. Indoor gardening, indeed, is a delightful hobby, and one we can heartily recommend to every man or woman who can- not enjoy the pleasures of an outdoor garden. Last of all, from a decorative point of view we would like to see window-sill and balcony gardening developed more extensively than it is. We want this feature adopted not only in the congested districts of our cities and towns, but also in our principal streets and thoroughfares in the more fashionable parts. Much is already done in that way in the West End of London, and the effect is certainly very marked. There is no reason, moreover, why our shops should not be florally decorated more than they are. Where this is done the attractiveness of the shop is certainly greatly ejihanged, Part 1. -WINDOW AND BALCONY GARDENING. CHAPTER I. WINDOW BOXES. Fob window-sill gardening boxes are essential if we would grow the plants really well, and ensure pretty effects. Pots have a somewhat ugly look about them, and, besides, the plants do not display their beauty to such good effect as when grouped together in a box. There are, of course, several types of boxes, and we will give a brief description of each. Earthenware Boxes. — These are made in various patterns, in terra cotta and other earthenware, the most beautiful type being that known as " Doulton " ware. They are, of course, expensive, but where expense is no object, and an artistic box is desired, then by all means procure this type. Being absorbent, they suit the requirements of plant life admirably. Zinc or Iron Boxes — These are not so suitable for plant life as the preceding type. Their close texture pre- \-ents aeration of the soil, and they are easily affected by WINDOW BOXES. n extremes of heat or cold. It is true, they are the most dur- able type of box. We are opposed to iron boxes, but are disposed to agree to zinc boxes being used as an inner sheet- ing to earthenware or wooden boxes. It is so easy to lift out a zinc shell, with soil and plants, and change the two, A Neat Window-Sill Garden-. Tlie box illnstrated is supported by brackets fixed to tlie wall and planted witli ivy and zonal pelargoniums and marguerites. One of many effective window-sill gardens attaclied to shops, etc., at Malvem, in Worcestershire. if desired, drainage. Ample provision must, however, be made for Simple Wooden Boxes. — A simple and cheap bos may be made of 9in. by lin. boards, painted green and faced 12 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. with, virgin cork. The joints should be given a thick coat- ing of red lead paint before they are secured together with wire nails. After fixing, stipple more paint freely in the joints, then give the other parts at least two coats of good green paint, both inside and out. No soil should, however, be placed in the box until the paint has become thorouglily dry. Holes an incli wide should be bored three inches apart in the bottom to allow superfluous water to escape readily. Ornate Boxes. — Make the box in the same way as advised in the last case, but, instead of facing it with virgin cork, cover it with pieces of split hazel or larch arranged in an artistic design, according to fancy. Secure them by means of small wire nails, and leave the bark on. Give the wood a G'oat of size, followed by three coats of varnish, and then a good class of box will be produced. Another ?tyle of box is one faced with planed wood in panels, and orna- mented with fretwork. Anyone handy with tools may orna- ment the face in many ways. The main principle of a win- dow-box, so far as its body is concerned, is to make it of good wood, well painted, and 9in. wide and 9in. deep, with plenty of drainage at the bottom. Any good carpenter or builder will soon make a serviceable box. The box should be stood on three strips of wood an inch or so square placed on the sill, one at each end and one in the centre. This is to allow air to get beneath the box, and so prevent its rotting. Window Pot Guard. — This may be made in a simple fashion like a miniature open-paled fence, or with a fret- work facing. The object in each case is to prevent pots fall- ing off the sill, and at the same time rendering them less imsightly from outside. General Remarks — On no account buy boxes faced with hideous blue, yellow, or red glazed tiles. These conflict with the colours of the flowers, and often spoil the beauty and charm of the floral arrangement. The more simple the de- sign, and the more unobtrusive the colour, the better. After SOIL FOR WINDOW BOXES. 13 all, the object of a box is not so much, for its artistic beauty as for its practical utility in holding soil for the plants. A box should be so planted with trailing plants that it is hidden from view — in summer, at any rate. It is a wise precaution to always have the ends of the boxes secured by stout wire to the walls, in order to prevent the former falling over, acci- dentally or otherwise. CHAPTER 11. SOIL FOR WINDOW BOXES. Having secured suitable boxes for the sills the next question is to provide adequate drainage and the requisite compost. Drainage. — It is necessary to place an inch or so of some rough material in the bottom of the box, to enable superfluous water to easily pass through the holes. If the compost were placed directly on the bottom it would soon seal the holes, and the lower compost become waterlogged and sour. The most suitable material for the purpose is cinders or coke, about the size of walnuts, or broken bricks or pot- sherds. An inch laj-er will suffice. Over this should be placed a thin layer of rough soil sittings, moss, tree leaves, or decayed manure. Ample drainage will thus be assured. Compost. — For ordinary purposes two parts of fairly good garden mould and one part of equal proportions of fresh horse droppings rubbed through a half -inch sieve, and sand or grit will suffice. Those, however, who can afford to spend a few shillings in buying better materials — and 14 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. which, by the way-, will yield better results — should use a compost of two parts fibrous loam and one part of equal proportions of well-decayed manure, leaf-mould, and silver sand. To each bushel of this mixture add a pint of bone- meal. Old potting mould also makes a good compost, if a little well-rotted manure be added to it, for window-boxes. The ingredients in each case should be thoroughly mixed before they are placed in the box. We may add here that the composts just advised will suf- fice for the whole year. The usual plan is to fill the boxes with fresh com]xist for the summer flowers, and, when these are cleared out in autumn, to be replaced by bulbs, etc.. it has simply to be forked over, adding a handful each of bone-meal and soot before tlie forking takes place. CHAPTER III. WINDOW BOXES IN SUMMER. It is during the summer period that the majority of folk take the keenest interest in window-sill gardening, owing, no doubt, to the fact that the best results are obtained from a floral standpoint at that season of the year. Window-sill gardening may, however, be practised with success at other seasons, as we shall show later on. For the present our remarks must be confined to the summer period. In dealing with the subject of furnishing the boxes we shall bear in mind the interests of all classes of window gardeners. A Cheap Display — Those who want to furnish their boxes at the lowest possible cost should sow hardy annuals in the boxes in March or April. Seeds suitable for the pur- pose ma}'- be purchased in penny packets. Kinds suitable WINDOW BOXES IN SUMMER. 15 for the purpose are dwarf mixed nasturtiums, candytuft, Virginian stoclc, godetias. Meteor marigolds, sunflowers, tall nasturtiums, Canary Creeper, clarkias, eschscholtzias, mig- nonette, and sweet alyssum. A sunflower seed or two, or a few seeds of sweet peas, may be sown at the ends of the box, to grow up. the sides of the window; seeds of Canary Creeper or Tall Nastur- A SiMi'LE Window Garden. This aiTay of plaat gi-owth is made up chiefly of canary creeper, clin bing- convolvulus, and single petunias; a zonal pelargonium or two are in the background. tium close to the front of the box, to hang over the side; and seeds of the other annuals behind. A very pretty effect would be obtained by sowing tall nasturtiums in front and dwarf nasturtiums behind. Another pretty arrangement would be to sow seeds of 16 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING, Canary Creeper in front, and eschscholtzias behind. Sow the seeds thinly, and afterwards thin the seedlings out to three or four inches apart. A box of Meteor marigolds, edged with Canary Creeper, also makes a charming picture, and so does an edging of Virginian stock with godetias be- hind. For a shilling it is possible to have an exceedingly cheap and showy floral display during the summer. A Simple, Inexpensive Display. — At a slightly Increased cost a very good display of colour may be obtained by planting half-hardy plants, such as French marigolds, salpigiossis, petunias, lobelias, and verbenas in the boxes in May. SeedliiigS can at tliat period be purchased at a cheap rate per dozen, and hence the cost is not a serious item. A box planted with one kind only yields the prettiest effect. Lobelias, however, are an exception; they should be used as an edging. Superior Displays. — Where expense is not a matter of primary consideration, very showy and artistic floral dis- plays may be made by utilising a more costly class of plants to those previously described. Thus, such plants as ivy- leaved and zonal pelargoniums, heliotropes, yellow and white marguerites, fuchsias, tuberous-rooted begonias, ageratums, lobelias, Tropasolum lobbianum, calceolarias, celosias, cupheas, lantanas, tobaccos, and petunias are available for yielding a wealth of blossom ; while for coloured foliage the silvery-leaved centaureas, pelargoniums, and cinerarias ; purple-leaved coleus, iresine, and perilla; and golden-leaved mesembryanthemums and pelargoniums are also at the dispo- sal of the window gardener desirous of obtaining brilliant effects. Tastes naturally vary as to arrangements, but the modern tendency is to jDlant boxes with one colour or with one kind of plant. Thus, one frequently observes a box planted solely with pink ivy-leaved pelargoniums, or yellow marguerites, or scarlet or crimson zonal pelargoniums, and the effect is certainly very pretty. 18 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Then, again, two-colour contrast schemes are favoured by some, such as an edging of blue lobelia with white mar- guerites behind; blue lobelia as an edging and scarlet pelar- goniums behind; purple heliotropes behind and golden mesembryanthemums in front; or crimson or scarlet pelar- goniums at the back and silvery-leaved ones in front. Harmonic combinations are obtained by planting salpi- glossis, or petunias, or fuchsias, or lantanas, in mixture by themselves in separate boxes. For ordinary purposes a mix- ture of petunias, pelargoniums, fuchsias, heliotrope, etc., will make an effective display. Sometimes, also, a box is planted solely with coloured- leaved plants. Thus, Mesembryanthemum variegatum, golden- leaved, is used as an edging; then behind this a row of sil- very-leaved Centaurea candidissima or Cineraria maritima, with purple-leaved Perilla nankinensis or Iresine Lindeni at tlie back. Other combinations tlian those described will, of course, occur to the window gardener. At the end we give a list of plants, with their colours, heights, etc., for the reader to select the kinds and colours he prefers. Shady Window Boxes — Our remarks so far have been confined to sunny boxes, and now a word or so with regard to those which get little or no sunshine in summer. Apart from hardy ferns, dealt with elsewhere, there is only a limited number of plants that really do well in shade. For partial shade tuberous-rooted begonias may be strongly recommended as excellent plants for the purpose. For partial or complete shade fuchsias. Sweet-scented Tobacco (Nicotiana affinis), yellow and brown calceolarias, musk, canary creeper. Creeping Jenny, tall and dwarf nas- turtiums may be relied upon to do fairly well. Fuchsias and calceolarias will certainly succeed. Fragrant Plants. — Those who desire to have one or more boxes filled with fragrant-leaved or flowered plants may grow one or more of the following plants : Mignonette, WINDOW BOXES IN SUMMER. 19 citron, peppermint, and balsam-scented and oak-leaved pelargoniums, sweet-scented verbena, sweet-scented tobacco, Balm of Gilead (Cedronella triphylla), Ilebenstretia comosa, and heliotrope. The mignonette may be sown in the box in March ; the rest must be procured as plants in May. The perfume of mignonette wafting through the window at early A Showy Window Box. This wull-nn-angedllwindow garden consists of a fuclisia in the rear centre, flanked by two white marguerites ; zonal pelargoniums and single petunias occupy the middle ; blue lobelia and brown-leaved Oxalis cornioulata rubra furnish the foreground. The glossy gi-een foliage of Veitch's Virginian creeper on the walls forms an effective setting for the whole. morn, or of the sweet-scented tobacco in the evening, is very pleasing. Hardy Plants. — A charming effect may be obtained in summer by growing dwarf snapdragons in variety in a 2 20 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. window-boxes. Strong seedlings should be planted in April, plenty of old mortar being previously mixed with the soil. Violas, too, do well in sunny window-boxes if the plants are kept moist, and all spent flowers regularly removed. Pan- sies are also good plants to grow in shade or partial shade. We have seen Campanula isophylla (blue) and Isophylla alba (white) grown very successfully in sunny boxes, the plants when in bloom making a splendid show. Marguerite carnations are very popular plants for window-box cul- ture on the Continent, and we see no reason why they should not do equally well here. Window-box Gardening: in London. — The fol- lowing remarks, contributed to "Amateur Gardening " by "I. L. K.," afford so much useful information and helpful sug- gestions on window gardening in London that we reproduce them here : " If we examine the contents of a considerable number of window-boxes in the neighbourhood of London, about three- fourths of them will be filled Avith white marguerites at the back, scarlet geraniums in the middle, and blue lobelia at the edge. Now these plants make a very pretty box, and are, moreover, the nafional colours, and for these reasons we have nothing to say against them, except that they are so terribly common that it is quite a relief to see a home decorated with other plants. " Where the aspect is a sunny one there is a wide choice of plants, and a little taste and originality in grouping them will be needed. Three straight rows of anything do not give so good an effect as a taller central plant, with a plant on each side also raised a little above the others, the rest of the box being suitably filled in at a slightly lower level. For the central plant a place should be kept by placing an empty pot, rather larger than that which it is to hold, in the middle before filling in the soil or jadoo ; and the same plan may be followed in a box of considerable length, for the two higher plants will be placed half-way between the centre plant and the ends of the box, so that in this way we can change the WINDOW BOXES IN SUMMER. 21 most important plants (which will be kept in their pots) at will, if they should go out of flower, for others. " Pot roses, either red, white, or apricot-coloured, are charming for these three positions in early summer, the box being filled in with forget-me-nots (moved when in bloom, and kept very damp) and clumps of Her Majesty white pinks, also raised with plenty of soil from the garden. These flowers, with red roses, make a beautiful and uncommon bos, but they do not last in beauty beyond June ; they should be taken out as soon as the tuberous begonias are in bloom, when fine plants of these flowers may be substituted fo"r the pinks, and a palm or dracsena may take the central place, with a pot of Eulalia zebrin^ (striped grass), or a young Grevillea robusta of suitable height can be slipped into the empty pot at each side. Tuberous begonias need extra foliage to show them off; ccleus may be used at the back of a broad box, and blue lobelia, alternated with white lobelia, will contrast well with them in front. " Petunias do well in boxes, making handsome masses of purple bloom, and yellow calceolarias or marguerites can be used with them (in the centre and at the sides), adding long trails of sedum, in silvery green, to cover the box with its lin;ht fringe. " Ivy-leaved pelargoniums are invaluable plants for a hot, dry position, for they stand heat better than others, and can be used to cover the box, trailing over it, and making a bright mass of colour. Madame Crousse, in soft pink, is very floriferous and effective ; Jeanne d'Arc is white, and both are semi-double. For a deep red ivy-leaved pelargo- nium nothing excels Corden's Glory ; and Souvenir de Charles Turner is a very fine bloom in carmine-pink; both are also double. " In choosing the colours for a window-box it is well to recollect the tint of the house, as this has much to do with an effective arrangement, pink or red flowers showing well on a grey or cold-coloured house, whilst white or blue flowers and silvery foliage suit a red brick house. " But the magenta shades of these pelargoniums are not 22 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. suitable; they need a mass of greenery to tone them down, and do not harmonise well with other warm-tinted flowers. The fibrous-rooted begonias, with a mass of small pink, red, or white flowers, are lovely in a western window-box, where the sunshine is not too strong for them; Alba Picta, with white flowers and handsome marbled foliage, is good ; Wel- toniensis produces a continuous quantity of bright pink blo&- soms, with crimson-veined leaves; and Vernon has bronze foliage and deep-red flowers. '■' Dwarf cannas, such as Queen Charlotte (crimson and gold), Alphonse Bouvier (vivid crimson), or Hypolite Flan- dron (salmon-pink), are very suitable for a warm window (when brought on in the greenhouse), filling the central places most effectively. Coleus foliage shows them off, with blue lobelia intermixed to trail over the front; dwarf zinnias, too, may be planted amongst the coleus to give vivid colour- ing; or asters, towards the autiunn, for these plants can be raised with a good ball of moist soil just as they open their liuds. '' Hydrangeas are excellent plants for boxes, either in sun- shine or shade ; their blossoms last longer without much sun- shine, especially those of the pure white variety (Thomas Hogg), and this is dwarf and very floriferous, too. Helio- tropes, pelargoniums, and many other flowers may be selected for a similar purpose, if desired." Sweet Peas. — These, also, may be grown with fair success in sunny window-boxes. The shoots can either hang over the front of the box or be supjMrted in a vertical posi- tion by means of feathery sticks. The seeds may be sown 4in. apart and 2in. deep in the box, in February; or strong seedlings purchased in three-inch pots from a specialist in April, and planted 6in. apart in the box. Good soil must be provided, and this kept moist. When the plants begin to flower, s\ipply weak liquid manure once a week. No seeds must be permitted to develop, and the tops of the plants should be nipped off when the shoots are .3ft. high. 24 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING rLOWERING PLANTS FOR BOXES. Name Begonias Tuberous-rooted „ Fibrous rooted Calceolarias Cannas (Dwarf only) Cuphea platycentra Fuchsias Gazania splendens Heliotropes Lantanas ... Lobelias Marguerites Musk Common , , Harrison's Pelargoniums Ivy , , Zonal Petunias Single . ,, Double . Salvia patens ,, ,, alba TropEeolum Ball of Fire Height. Colonr. Various Habit. 8 in. ... Dwarf. Sin. ... Various Dwarf. 1 ft. ... Yellow Medium. 1 ft. ... Brown Medium. 2 to 3 ft. Crimson, etc. Tall. 1 ft. ... Scarlet, white Dwarf. 1 to 2 ft. Various Tall. 6 in. ... Orange, etc. Drooping. 18 in. ... Mauve, purple ... Medium. 1ft ... Crim., yell., pink Medium 6 in. ... Blue and white .. Drooping. 1 to 2 ft. Yellow, white ... Tall. 6 in. ... Yellow Dwarf. Sin. ... Yellow Dwarf. 6 in. ... Crim., pink, etc.... Drooping. 1 ft. ... Crim., pink, etc.... Medium. 1 ft. ... Purple, white Medium. 1ft. ... Purple, white Medium. 2 ft. ... Blue Tall. 2 ft. ... White Tall. 3 ft. ... Scarlet Drooping. HARDY ANNUALS FOR BOXES. liame. 1 Height. Colonr. Habit. Canary Creeper . . ... 3 to 4 ft. Yellow Climbing. Candytuft .... 6 in. ... Carmine or white D wa rf . Clarkias .. 1 18 in. Pink, white Medium. Eschseholtzias ... 1ft. Carmine, yellow . . Dwarf. Godetias ... 1 ft. .. Various ... Dwarf. Marigold Meteor . . ... 18 in. Orange ' Medium. Nasturtium Dwarf ... 6 in. ... Various . . . Dwarf. Tall .. 3 to 4 ft. Various ... Tall. Mignonette ... 1ft. ... Red, white Dwarf. Sunflower ... 4 to 6 ft. Yellow ] Tall. Sweet Alyssum .. ... 6 in. ... White Dwiirf. „ Peas ... 3 to 4 ft. Various Tall. Virginian Stock .. ... 4 in. ... Red and white . . j Very dwarf. WINDOW BOXES IN SUMMER. 25 TENDER ANNUALS FOR BOXES. Name. Height. Col nr. Habit. Asters China 1 ft. ... Blue, white, etc. Dwarf. Celosia pyramidalis 2 to 3 ft, Crim., yellow .. Tall. Niootiana afE nis 2 ft. ... White Medium. Marigold French lift. ... Orange, etc. Medium. Phlox Drummondi 1ft. Various ... Dwarf. Salpiglossis 18 in. ... Various Medium. Stocks Ten- week Sin. ... Blue, red, white . Dwarf. FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR BOXES. Name. Hiiglit. Foliage. Habit. Centaurea candidisima . . . Sin. ... White Dwarf. Cerastium tomentosum ... 6 in. ... White Drooping. Cineraria maritima Sin. ... White Dwarf. Cnicus casabonie 8 in. ... White and green. Dwarf. Coleus verschaffelti 1 ft. ... Purple Medium. Kulalia Japonica variegata 3 ft. ... Silvery Tall. Fuchsia Sunray 18 in. ... Crimson, yellow . . . Medium. „ Cloth of Gold ... 18 in. ... Golden Medium. Iresine Herbstii 1 ft. .-.-. Crimson Dwarf. ,, Lindenii 1 ft. .. Red or purple . . . Dwarf. Nepeta glechoma varie- gata 2 in. .. Silvery Drooping. Pelargonium L'FJegante. . . 1 ft. .: Silvery Dwarf. ,, CrystalPalace Gem 6 in. ... Golden Dwarf. ,, Flower of Spring ... 1ft. ..:. White Dwarf. Mangle'svarie- gated 1 ft. ... White Dwarf. Lady Ply- mouth . 1 ft. .. White Dwarf. Peri Da Nankinensis 1 ft. .. Purple Dwarf. Pyrethrum aureum 6 in. ..' Yellow Dwarf. Sedum acre aureum 4 in. Yellow Very dwarf. „ elegans 4 in. .. Silvery Very dwarf. Zea Japonica (Maize) 3 ft. .., Silvery Tall. 26 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. CHAPTER IV. WINDOW BOXES IN AUTUMN. There is very little to be said about window gardening in autumn. The summer display in favourable seasons lasts till the end of September, and, beyond early and semi-early chrysanthemums, which may, it is true, be had in flower in October, there is practically nothing left in the floral line to decorate window-boxes in autumn. Indeed, directly the summer display is finished it is usual to at once furnish the boxes with shrubs for the winter season. Chrysanthemums — If these are required for win- dow-box decoration the plants must either be purchased in flower in September or October, or be grown on in pots in some sunny spot all the summer. The latter is by - no means an easy task for those with limited ' space, as the plants require plenty of room to grow them properly. The young plants have to be reared annually from cut- tings in spring, grown on indoors till May, then placed out- side and planted in six or eight-inch pots in June. The point of the main shoot must be removed about April, and when side shoots have formed four to six inclies long their points must also be removed. This will ensure the forma- tion of nice bushy plants b}' September. If large flowers are desired thin out the buds when the size of a small pea. The better plan, liowever, would be to purcliase plants in flower. Varieties. — Japanese: Goacher's Crimson; Carrie, yellow ; Polly, orange ; Merstham Bronze, bronze ; Market White; and Normandie, pink. Pompons: Yellow Gem, Blushin"- Brfele, and Little Bob. WINDOW BOXES IN WINTER. 27 CHAPTER V. WINDOW BOXES IN WINTER Op course, there can be no floral display in window-boxes during the winter months, because, until the snowdrop ap- pears, there are practically no flowering plants suitable fur box culture. But it is possible to have attractive window- boxes by using other subjects, such as berry-bearing, green, and variegated shrubs. -Nice dwarf specimens in pots can be obtained at any nursery or florist's in November and onwards, that will add lustre and beauty to the window-box from then up till the period for supplanting them with sum- mer flowers. Following are suitable kinds for the purpose : Berry-bearing: Shrubs — The Prickly Heath (Per- nettya mucronata) and its several varieties is one of the most attractive of berry-bearing shrubs. These bear berries of the size of pea seeds and of shades of crimson, rose, pink, purple, and white, so freely that the plants have a decidedly ornamental effect. Then there are also two species of skim- mias which bear showy berries. One is S. japonica with bright green foliage and red berries, and the other is S. For- tunei with glossy foliage and crimson berries. Tree ivies, again, are to be had with black or yellow berries. These are grown as neat bushes or as standards, with clear stems and branches at top. There are green, golden, and silver- leaved kinds. Varieg^ated Shrubs — The green, golden, and silver- leaved euonymuses, which thrive so well in seaside gardens, make extremely pretty plants for window boxes. The best sorts are E. japonicus latifolia aureus, golden-leaved; E. japonicus argentius variegatus, silver-leaved; and E. radi- cans variegatus, a slender-stemmed variegated kind suitable for the front of a box. Aucuba japonica is another pretty shrub, with green leaves mottled with yellow; Golden Privet, 2S WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. golden-leaved, also very ornaniental ; Cupressus lawsoniana lutea and albo-spica, shoots yejlow or white tipped ; and the Periwinkle (Vinca elegantissima), with creamy-white shoots, are further attractive kinds. Green-leaved Shrubs. — The most suitable kinds are : Box (Buxus sempervirens), Euonymus japonicus and microphylla, Juniperus tamariscifolia, Ligustrum japonicum, Mahonia aquifolia, Osmanthus ilicifolius, Eetinospora plu- mosa, Taxus baccata elegantissima (yew), Thuia dolobrata, Cupressus lawsoniana and its varieties Nana and Shawii, and Veronica Traversii. Arranging: the Shrutfis. — They may be grown m pots stood on the sill and protected by an ornamental skele- ton box, or stood inside an ori^inary window-box from which the mould has been removed ; or their pots plunged in the mould; or, better still, be turned out of their pots and planted in the soil. When grown in pots exposed to the weather there is a risk of the pots being cracked by the frost. If the pots are plunged this risk is obviated ; but, if planted in mould, the shrubs have a more natural appear- ance. Besides, it is possible then to plant a few bulbs be- tween the shrubs, and so add t-o the attractiveness of the arrangement in spring. If the planting method be adopted, green and variegated ivies, periwinkle, and Euonymus radicans may be planted close to the edge to trail over the front, and then the green, variegated, "and berry-bearing shrubs may be arranged m mixture, according to taste, behind. Golden Privet and green-leaved Cupressus lawsoniana look well together ; so do aucubas, thuias, and mahonias. Plant fairly close to- gether, and press the soil down firmly. Treatment. — Directly after planting give the soil a thorough watering. Afterwards water will probably not be needed till the warm days of spring arrive. Those in pots will only require water about once a month. When May WINDOW BOXES IN WINTER. 29 arrives the shrubs, of course, will have to give place to the summer plants. If the shrubs in pots have , been well cared for they may {Photo : K. F. Watkinson, Goodmayes.) A Shady Window Garden. Suspended is |a plant of Asparagnis Sprenereri ; in the bacagi'onnd are two aepidistras ; inlthe foregi'onnd, looking left to right, Creeping Jenny, Tradescantla zebrina, and the white Carapannla isophylla alba. be worth retaining for another year, in which case place them in some sunny corner and keep them well watered. 20 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Those planted out will have to be repotted. As a rule, shrubs growu iu -wiudow-boxes lose a good deal of foliage, and have a by uo means healthy look at the end of the season. It is, on the whole, better to buy fresh ones an- nually and to plant the others iu the garden, or throw them away. CHAPTER VI. WINDOW BOXES IN SPRING. L\ spring there will be little difficulty experienced in secur- ing a gay display of flowers in window-boxes, as at that season plenty of bulbous-rooted plants are available. These, with forget-me-nots, primroses, polyanthuses, and wall- flowers, to say nothing of other hardy plants, will assist in making window-sills exceedingly attractive from March on- wards. Ordinary Bulbs. — Taking ' bulbs into consideration first, there are hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, crocuses, scillas, and snowdrops among the commoner kinds. These may be grown in mixture, or in one or more kinds in each box. The most attractive and tasteful arrangement is to plant, say, mixed crocuses, or scillas and snowdrops, as an edging, and mixed tulips or hyacinths behind. If one-colour schemes are preferred, then plant one variety of hyacinth or of tulip. Narcissi look well grown by themselves, with an edging of yellow crocuses. The bulbs of hyacinths, tulips, and narcissi should be planted about three inches deep and the same distance apart ; those of the crocus, snowdrop, and scilla two inches deep and tw-o inches apart, or even one inch would be better. Simply fork up the soil in which the summer plants were grown, and plant the bulbs in October. WINDOW BOXES IN SPRING, 31 Where a box is fairly wide, say a foot in widtli, a bril- liant effect may be produced by planting a row of crocuses as an edging, followed behind by a row of tulips, then one of hyacinths, and one of narcissi at the back. Choice Bulbs. — Where expense is not a consideration mucli pleasure may be derived from the culture in window- lioxes of sucli choice bulbs as Chionodoxa luciliae and sar- densis, Muscari botryoides, botryoides alba, and conicum " Heavenly Blue," Crocus Sieberi, Iris liistrio, histrioides, A WiNDOw-SiLL Garden is Spking. An eiirthenware box of simple design filled with various varieties of daffodils. Very pretty. alata, and reticulata, Brodiuea uniflora, Narcissus bulboco- dium, Johnstoni, moschata cernuus pulcher, cyclamineus, and triandrus albus, Galanthus Fosteri, and the lovely Darwin and May-flowering tulips. These charming bulbs should be grown in little colonies of half a dozen or so, the tiny beds being outlined by a few small pieces of stone or rock depressed slightly in the soil. The Darwin and May-flowering tulips should be grown as 32 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. advised for ordinary bulbs. A little leaf-mould and silver sand should be mixed with the soil; in fact, it would be better to prepare a special cornpost of two parts sandy loam and one of equal proportions of leaf-mould and silver sand for all the bulbs mentioned, except the tulips. Plant the bulbs about two inches deep and an inch apart in Septem- ber. Those which flower in February should have their deli- cate flowers protected by means of a small bell-glass. The foregoing choice bulbs must remain in the box until their leaves fade; then ihej should be taken out of the soil, dried, and stored in a cool place till autumn. Mixed Bulbs and Plants. — A very pretty effect may be ensured by planting hyacinth, tulip, and narcissi bulbs in groups of three, then leaving a space between each group to plant a primrose, polyanthus, forget-me-not, or wallflower. The bulbs flower early, and when they have lost their charm the plants come into blossom and keep the box gay till June. The plants can be put in at time of planting the bulbs or in March. Bulbs may also be grown between the shrubSi as advised in the chapter on winter window- boxes. Hardy Plants. — Yet another arrangement would be to grow double-flowered arabis, polyanthuses, forget-me-nots, wallflowers, aubretias, and auriculas in window-boxes, planting them in autumn in the soil in which the summer flowers were grown. However, as these do not flower till late in the spring the boxes are devoid of colour earlier in the season, and, on the whole, it is preferable to grow them in conjunction with bulbs. Manag^ement. — In the early spring, when the sun attains power, it will be necessary to give an occasional watering. Even in rainy weather it often happens that the soil in boxes obtains little moisture, owing to the eaves diverting the rainfall. No manure will be required for the bulbs, but the plants may be given an occasional dose. After flowering, the bulbs will, of course, have to make 34 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. way for the summer flowers. In May, therefore, lift the bulbs and replant them in the garden or in a spare bos to complete their growth. As a rule, hyacinths, tulips, nar- cissi, crocuses, and snowdrops rarely flower satisfactorily a second year in boxes. To obtain the best effects fresh bulbs should be procured annually, and the old ones planted out in the garden. Wallflowers and forget-me-nots should be discarded. Prim- roses, polyanthuses, and auriculas must either be grown in pots in the shade or planted out in the garden. If properly cared for they will flower well another year. BULBS FOR WINDOW BOXES. Name. Colour, Flowering Period. Heiglit. Allium Neapolitamim White May 18 in. BrodiEea viniflora White, blue May ... 6 in. Chionodoxa lucilife Blue and white . . . March ... 6 in. ,, sardensis Blue March ... 4 in. Crocus reticulatus White, lilac March ... .3 in. ,, Sieberi Lilac March ... .Sin. Galanthus Elwesii White January Sin. „ Foster! White February 6 in. ,, nivalis White February 6 in. Hyacinth Various March ... 1ft. Iris, Hiatrio Lilac February 6 in. „ histrioides Blue, yellow, etc.... February 6 in. ,, reticulata Blue yellow, etc.... February 6 in. Muscari botryoides Blue March ... 6 in. ,, albvim... White March ... 6 in. "Heavenly Blue"... Blue April . , . 6 in. Narcissus bulbocodium Yellow April . . . 6 in. ,, Johnstonii Yellow March ... 1ft. ,, Jonquil Yellow April . . . 6 in. , , cernuus pulcher . . . White and yellow February 1ft. ,, poeticus ornatus ... White and scarlet May 18 in. ,, cyclamineus ./. Yellow March ... 6 in. ,, triandrus albus ... White March ... 6 in. Scilla sibirica Blue February 6 in. Tulip Early Various March ... Sin. , , Darwin Various May 1ft. ,, May-flowering Various May 1ft. FERNS IN WINDOW BOXES. 35 CHAPTER VII. FERNS IN WINDOW BOXES. Window-sills facing north, or in a position which gets little or no sun, may be utilised to advantage for the growth of hardy ferns in boxes. Ferns are such interesting plants to cultivate that we are quite sure they will yield a vast amount of pleasure to those who undertake to grow the kinds described hereafter. Position. — Many windows are so placed that they get little or no sun upon them. It is almost useless attempting to grow flowering plants in such a situation, as they require sun. Ferns, however, are at home in these shaded posi- tions, and may be cultivated with the greatest ease. If proper varieties are selected, the right kind of soil provided in which to plant them, and sufficient water supplied from time to time as necessary to keep the soil moist, they will prove a source of much pleasure, and make a wonderful im- provement in the appearance of the window as seen from the outside, besides presenting cheerful and beautiful objects from the room. Boxes. — -The boxes need not be of an expensive style ; plain wood is the best. They should be made as deep and wide as the window-sills will allow. Holes should be bored through the bottom to allow the escape of water; the front, top edges, and as much of the back part of the box as can be seen from the room sRould be covered by virgin cork. This gives it a more rustic appearance than any other material. The soil should consist of a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, about equal quantities of each, and a little peat may also be added. Kinds for Large Boxes — The following ferns are d2 36 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING the best for window-boxes, and will be found easy of culti- vation. As boxes vary considerably in size, the ferns must be selected accordingly. As a guide in the selection, the letters " L," " M," and " D," placed after the names, indi- cate that those so marked are respectively of " large," " medium," or " dwarf " habit of growth. Nephrodium, or Lastrea Filix-mas, the Male Fern (L.), is a very hardy and free-growing gpecies, forming nice plants with an abundance of foliage. Asplenium, or Athyrium Filix-fcemina, the Lady Fern (L.), is a graceful and pretty species, also of free growth. Nephrodium spinulosum dilatatum, the Broad Buckler Fern (L.), is another handsome free-growing species. Nephrodium, or Lastrea montana, the Mountain Buckler Fern (M.), is a charming species with light green and scented fronds. Aspidium, or Polystichum aculeatum, the Hard Prickly Shield Fern (L.), is a handsome kind; Aspi- dium angulare, the Soft Prickly Shield Fern (L.), is very pretty, and of free growth; Scolopendrium vulgare, the Hart's Tongue Fern (M.), is a general favourite, and, by reason of its distinct foliage, contrasts nicely with the other kinds referred to; Nephrodium rigidum, the Rigid Buckler Fern (M..); Nephrodium oemulum, the Hay-scented Fern (M.); and Nephrodium spinulosum, the Spiny Buckler Fern (M.), are all desirable species. Kinds for Small Boxes — For smaller boxes, or for intermixing with the larger kinds, there is a number of pretty dwarf-growing ferns, such as Polypodium Dryopteris, the exceedingly pretty Oak Fern; P. Phegopteris, the Beech Fern; P. Dryopteris robertianum, the Limestone Polypody; Cryptogramme crispa, the Mountain Parsley Fern; Asple- nium adiantum-nigrum, the Black Maidenhair Spleenwort; Asplenium trichomanes, the Black-stemmed Spleenwort; Asplenium viride, the Green-stemmed Spleenwort; Asple- nium Ceterach, the Scaly Spleenwort; Cystopteris fragilis, the Bladder Fern; Lomaria spicant, the Hard Fern; Poly- podium vulgare, the Common Polypody; Polypodium v. cam- bricum, the Welsh Polypody; and Asplenium lonchitis, the FERNS IN WINDOW BOXES. 37 Holly Fern. Besides tliese species there are also many ex- ceedingly pretty and interesting varieties, but those already named will be found very suitable for the purpose under consideration, all being hardy and easy of culture. North American Ferns. — There are several North American species that int-ermix well with the British, and, as thej' differ in appearance and are quite as hardy, they may be planted together with advantage. Nephrodium inter- media (M.), N. marginale (M.), Osmunda gracilis (M.), Aspi- dium acrostichoides (M.), A. munitum (L.) (a handsome species, very hardy, and a free grower), Woodsia ilveusis (D.), W. obtusa, and Woodwardia angustifolia (M.), the Chain Fern, are all worthy of cultivation. From the large number of different species named it will be recognised that, even for window-boxes, there are quite .sufficient kinds to select from to enable anyone to possess a very interesting collection. It must be borne in mind that, owing to the exposed situation of many window-boxes, only those plants that will bear a reasonable amount of wind are suitable. The foregoing are of this description. Cultural Details — After the fems are planted they should be well watered, and if the soil is then covered by a layer of common wood moss in flakes the appearance will be greatly improved, and the soil will not dry so rapidly. The moss will also prevent any splashing up of the soil upon the windows, which often occurs during heavy showers if this precaution be not taken. It will be a further improve- ment to the appearance if there are planted at the edges of the box a few ivies or other trailing plants to hang down. Some of the small-leaved ivies are very suitable for this pur- pose. The ferns should be frequently examined that water may be given whenever necessary to prevent their becoming dry. This should be well looked after during summer, and, indeed, during any part of the year when there is an un- usual length of time without rain, as ferns soon suffer if short of moisture in the soil, and vigorously growing, healthy plants might be spoiled from this cause. 38 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. CHAPTER VIII. BALCONY GARDENS. In cities and towns the lover of flowers has to utilise every available inch of outdoor space for practising his or her favourite liobby. Every window-sill is requisitioned by the entlmsiast, and if he happens to possess a balcony this also is turned to account for flower growing. A balcony, of course, is a small platform projecting from the main build- ing, and fringe'd with open ornamental masonry or iron. It is, moreover, open at the top, not covered by a roof as in the case of a verandah. The latter tyi>e of structure will receive attention in a separate chapter. Access to a bal-^ cony is iismilly olitained by means of a French window, and this, reaching to the base, affords a good view from the room of any floral decorations that may be attempted thereon. Boxes. — It naturally follows tliat any plants utilised for balcony decoration must be grown in pots or boxes. Of the two the latter are preferable. They should be 9in. to 1ft. wide and 1ft. in depth, be made of earthenware or wood, and have plenty of holes bored in the bottom to allow super- fluous water to escape. If made of Avood, have them painted a dark green colour. Zinc boxes may be made to fit in the wooden ones, if de- sired. These will help to extend the life of the outer shell, besides enabling the soil and plants to be easilj- removed or changed. Strips of wood 2in. square should be placed under the boxes at intervals of 1ft. to keep the box off the floor and allow air to pass beneath. The boxes should be ar- ranged around the ends and front, and on each side of the window against the house wall. Place an inch of drainage in tlie boxes and fill these with compost, as advised for win- dow-boxes. 40 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Climbers for House Wall. — For decorating the house wall on each side of the window such flowering clim- bers as Clematis Jackmanii, purple; C. Lady Caroline Nevill, lavender; or C. Jackmanii alba, white; Passiflora coerulea, blue; P. coerulea Constance Elliot, white, would be suitable for training to the wall or to a wire or lattice- work trellis fixed thereto. Planted in the boxes at the ends, and properly looked after as regards watering, feeding, and pruning, these would grow satisfactorily for several years. It must be borne in mind that the plants described cannot be expected to grow so vigorously, or continue to flourish for so many years, within the limited area of a box as in a bed in the garden. But, as they are not very expensive, it will not be a serious matter to renew the plants and soil every three or four years. Clematis Jackmanii will require its previous year's shoots to be shortened every February to about 1ft. from their base, to encourage strong flowering shoots to form. Lady Nevill must only need to have weak or dead growths aud the tips of the previous season's shoots removed at same time. The passifloras (Passion flowers) must also have any weakly or sickly growths cut away, and the last year's slioots shortened one-third in February. We know from experience that many would like to grow roses on a balcony. Our earnest and candid advice is, do not attempt sucli a thing — it can only end in disappoint- ment. Roses cannot withstand the confined area of a box or the draughty, exposed position of a balcony. The experi- ment has been tried over and over again, aud has always proved a failure. Good temporary climbers for the summer season only are the Tall Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), red or yellow ; the Canary Creeper (Tropasolum aduncum), yellow ; and Lobb's Nasturtium (Tropseolum lobbianum), scarlet. Strong plants of these planted in the boxes in May, and the shoots trained to the wall, will make an attractive display as the season advances. If well watered, and fed occasionally with arti- ficial manure, the plants will grow many feet high. BALCONY GARDENS. 41 Climbers for Shady Balconies. — So far our re- marks have been confined to sunny balconies. As ttiere are balconies that get little or no sunshine, and where flowering climbers would not blossom satisfactorily, we must advise as to other suitable climbers for such positions. First of all there is the Virginian Creeper, or Ampelopsis (Vitis quinquefolia). This well-known deciduous climber will do very well in a box if well cared for, cover a considerable space with refreshing green foliage in summer, and richly- tinted leafage in early autumn. Next comes the green ivy. This, of course, is an evergreen, and, while it will not grow as freely as the Virginian Creeper, it will, nevertheless, make a neat creeper for the wall, and look nice all the year round. Veitch's Ampelopsis (Vitis inconstans) is a neat growing and self -clinging deciduous creeper which also might be grown in a similar position. Summer Flowers — During the summer months the front and sides of the balcony maj- be made most attrac- tive by planting TropEEolum lobbianum, ivy-leaved pelar- goniums, single petunias, or lobelias in front of the box, so that their shoots may protrude through the balustrades or railings, and filling the space behind with geraniums, fuch- sias, marguerites, heliotropes, or any of the plants advised for window-boxes. These plants can be grown in mixture, or in schemes of pink, scarlet, crimson, yellow, white, or purple, as taste demands. Thus, a yellow scheme may consist of the Canary Creeper as a trailer, and yellow marguerites behind; a pink one of pink ivy-leaved pelargoniums as trailers and pink zonal pelargoniums behind ; a scarlet or crimson one of ivy and zonal pelargoniums, or the latter with Tropseolum lobbi- anum as a trailer; a purple one of petunias in front and a dark heliotrope behind ; a white one of white petunias in front with white marguerites behind, and so on. Hardy annuals, as advised for window-boxes, may also be used if a cheap display be desired. For shady balconies fuchsias, calceo- larias, musk, or hardy ferns may be utilised. 42 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Sweet-sc€iited Tobacco (Nicotiana affiuis), musk, and niiguouette make delightful scent-yielding flowers for a suuuy balcony. Autumn Flov»fers. — These are extremely limited, and, indeed, confined to early and mid-season chrysanthemums, as advised for ■window-boxes in autumn. Winter Plants. — Here, again, the winter decoration of the balcony is practically identical with that of window- boxes, and the same kinds of shrubs must be used. How- ever, the shrubs may in this case be of a larger size. The reader is advised to read tlie advice given on p. 27, and to apply it to his balcony boxes. Spring Flowers. — Bulbs and such vernal-blooming plants as wallflowers, primroses, forget-me-nots, etc., will combine to make the boxes on a balcony very attractive for the spring season. The advice given on p. 30 applies equally to balcony boxes, so that we need not reiterate our previous remarks. General Hints. — We now come to the general manage- ment of plants in balcony boxes. First as to watering: During the spring the boxes will require water about once a week; in sunnner almost daily; in autrunn not more than once a month ; and in winter none. During the summer give liquid manure once a week. Always, if possible, water the boxes in the evening during the summer. A slight sprinkling overhead every evening in sunnner will be most beneficial. Attention to these points, and to keeping dead leaves and spent flowers picked ofi, will ensure a successful display. VERAN&AH GARDENS. 43 CHAPTER IX. VERANDAH GARDENS. Balconies and verandahs are closely associated with each other ; indeed, the two are usually regarded as identical. For our purpose there is, however, a fundamental difference. Strictly, a balcony is a perfectly open structure, a plat- form, projecting from the dwelling. A verandah, on the other hand, has open sides, and a roof, or a roof and closed sides — a kind of greenhouse, in fact. An open verandah witli a roof may be classed with a balcony so far as our purpose is concerned, but h closed one requires separate treatment. This type we shall now proceed to deal with. Verandahs in Relation to Plant Growth — Verandahs are not, as a rule, heated ; several windows or doors open into them, and they are generally of u. cold, draughty order. Hence, many persons find it exceedingly difficult to grow plants for a long period with success. The rich man, who has such a structure, experiences no diffi- culty, since with the aid of greenhouses elsewhere he is able to maintain a regular supply of flowering and foliage plants all the year round. The ordinary person, who possesses no ■such advantage, has to rely upon such plants as he can grow- without such aid. He soon finds by experience that plants do not succeed well for long, and naturally wonders if he has, or has not, made some mistake in selection or cultiva- tion. The real fact is, the position is too cold and too draughty for the majority of plants, and failure is bound to ensue except in certain instances where plants of the proper type have been selected. Tliis point we will now deal with. Sunny Verandahs — Here, as.suming that the plants have to be grown all the year round, our advice is — be care- 44 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. fill to grow such foliage plants only as the green and varie- gated aspidistras, Fig-leaf Palin or Aralia (Fatsia japonica), Japanese Hyacinth (Ophiopogon jaburan variegatum), Varie- gated Spider Plant (Anthericum variegatum), New Zealand Pine (Araucaria excelsa). Bamboo (Arundinaria nitida and Veitchi), Japanese Grass (Eulalia gracillima). New Zealand Plax (Phormium tenax variegatum), and Yucca aloifolia variegata. Ferns, of course, such as Aspidium falcatum and proliferum angulare, N^phrodium molle, Woodwardia radi- cans, etc., might also bfe added to the list. Then, as regards flowering plants, fuchsias, geraniums, marguerites, lilies, Agapanthus umbellatus, Vallota pur- purea, and hydrangeas might be looked upon as suitable plants for summer blooming ; chrysanthemums for autumn ; cyclamen, perhaps, in winter; and bulbs. Azalea mollis, Erica hj-emalis, Cytisus racemosus, Coronilla glauca, Calla lilies, and acacias in spring. Of course, where expense is no object, petunias, helio- tropes, balsams, celosias, etc., might be added in summer; salvias, bouvardias, etc., in autumn; primulas, carnations, Roman hyacinths, etc., in winter; Indian azaleas, cinera- rias and forced shrubs in spring. Shady Verandahs — Here the foliage plants pre- viously mentioned, with the addition of myrtles, and stan- dard bays, and such plants as ferns, with fuchsias, calceo- larias, and musk may be regarded as suitable subjects for a shady structure. Really, we should prefer to utilise a shady verandah as a home, and an opportunity for growing native, European, and North American ferns. They love shade, do not mind draughts, and do better than most plants if kept moist in summer. The Verandah Beautiful — To make the most of a verandah from an artistic point of vieAV, it is essential that all parts should, as far as possible, be decorated with flowers or plants. Thus, the house wall may be covered with clematises or passion flowers, planted in boxes at the As Open Verandah Garden. The exterior is prettily draped with gi-aoeful creepers. Hanging baskets are suspended from the centre of each arch, and the iiiterior decorated with plants in pots. '^ 46 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. base; or it ma}- be decorated by ornamental bracket iiotz filled with ferns or creeping plants. The corners, or sides, may be formed into rockeries with beds of soil containing ferns or pretty foliage plants; the roof covered by elegant creepers, as Cobsea scandens, or Passiflora Constance Elliot; or decorated by hanging baskets of Campanula isophylla alba, Vinca elegantissima, Saxifraga sarmentosa, or ivy- leaved pelargoniums. By means of pot brackets on the walls and small rock beds or borders on the floor it is pos- sible for any keen enthusiast to make his sunny verandah a place of more than ordinary beauty. A shady verandah will have to be devoted to foliage plants and ferns, as it is almost an impossibility to expect flower- ing plants to do really well ; they want the precious sun- shine to ensure the development of flowers. We should mention here that the oleander often does well in a sunny verandah. Many would, no doubt, like to grow roses, and we wish we could encourage them to do so, but we cannot honestly recommend the experiment. They may grow for a time, but cold draughts and the dry air are de- cidedly adverse to their success. Porches. — These are akin to verandahs. They are cold, draughty spots, and are practically identical in re- quirements with an open verandah. Aspidistras do as well as most plants, and next to these standard bay trees. These remarks apply to the inside ; for the outside see chapters on "Balconies" and "Window-Boxes." Some Special Hints — One of the first words of advice we . are bound to give is this : If your verandah is covered by opaque glass do not expect to meet with much success in jjlaiut growing. All plants, except ferns, delight in the direct light of heaven, and unless they get it they will make attenuated, weakly growth, and assume a sickly appearance. In such a position grow ferns and foliage plants, and eschew flowering ones. Remember, too, that in closed verandahs plants, like ROOF GARDENS. 47 humankind, require air, but not cold draughts; so give air daily in spring and summer. See also that the foliage is kept free from dust. In spring and summer, once a week, thoroughly spray, bj means of an "Abol " syringe, with tepid water to thoroughly cleanse the foliage. Insects, too, are bound to be trouble- some, and a sharp eye should therefore be kept upon them, and, if they do appear, projiiptly eradicate them. See also to the proper watering of the plants, in accordance witli ad- vice conveyed on page 129. Finally, bear in mind that if you can afford to warm your verandah by means of hot water pipes, so as to maintain a steady, equable temperature, it no longer exists as a veran- dah, but becomes a greenhouse, in which j-ou may grow a larger variety of plants, and with far greater success. CHAPTER X. ROOF GARDENS. In preceding pages we have instructed the reader in the art of beautifying the interior of his home, also the exterior, so far as the decoration of the window sills, balconies, and verandahs is concerned, and now we will deal with that most interesting phase of home gardening, the cultivation of plants on the roofs of dwellings, shops, and warehouses. Here we must explain that the latter remarks refer, of course, to flat roofs covered with lead, zinc, or concrete, and not to angled roofs. It is true in country districts one may occasionally see' patches of house leek, wallflowers, and stonecrop growing on old sloping tiled roofs, and we have seen pansies flowering on old tliatched roofs, but we are not concerned 48 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. with country liouses, only with those in tlie town where is no garden space, and wliere a flat roof under such condi- tions affords tlie only opportunity of growing a few flowers to enliven the monotony of town scenery, and yielding pleasure to the lover of flowers. In London, alone, there are many examples of roof gar- dens which do infinite credit to their owners. It is astonish- ing indeed with what great success many manage to grow flowers, plants, and shrubs on elevated roofs exposed to the full force of the wind, scorching summer's sun, and the bane- ful effects of a smoke-laden atmosphere. It is under such untoward conditions that we find the true gardening instinct fully developed within the man or woman who essays to cultivate a garden on a roof. Unremitting patience, a genuine love of Nature, and a dogged determination to suc- ceed, seem to be the required essentials on the part of those who would be successful as town gardeners. There are pro- bably very many roof gardens of which the public know nofhing, because ihej are hidden from view, and seen onlj' by the owner, his family, and friends. A few, however, have come under our notice, and very interesting they proved to be. In one instance, in Southwark, we believe, the owner cultivates not only flowers, but tomatoes, marrows, cucum- bers, etc., witli success, on the roof of a public institution. This proves the truth of the old adage, " That where there's a will, there's a way." Well, having said so much by way of introduction, we will now proceed to enlighten the would-be rcof gardener how to cultivate, flowers, etc., with success under the conditions already mentioned. Suitable Sites for a Roof Garden. — The most suitable position for a roof garden would be an open flat roof over a projecting shop, or on the top of dwellings, offices, oi warehouses, where it is possible to get a fair amount of sun- shine in summer. The roof must, of course, be substan- tially constructed to carry the weight of the soil and plants safely. Concrete or solid floors are best, both on account of "iO WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. their streugtli and durability, and also because their being unafiected by damp from the soil and water applied. Lead and zinc-covered roofs may be utilised in a small way for roof gardens, but are not so suitable as those covered with a solid material. Method af Cultivating: the Plants. — Granted a suitable site is a-vailable, the next question is how the plants shall be grown. The usual method is to grow th-em in tubs or boxes. Unless the space is an ample one, and the roof composed of a solid material, it is not possible to cultivate plants in beds of soil. In any case, there would be a serious difficulty to encounter in the way of getting the requisite mould up to the roof. The idea of flower beds on a roof garden is an impracticable one, and the only other course to adopt is to grow the plants, etc., in pots, tubs, and boxes. The tubs may be paraffin or other casks cut in halves, and with numerous holes pierced through their bottoms to allow sviperfluous water to escape. The paraffin casks should be partly filled with shavings, and these ignited in order that any oil present on the inside may be burnt out. Needless to say, great care must be exercised in doing this in order to av(jid setting fire to the structure. The boxes ma}' consist of old wine or packing cases of any kind, varying from one to two feet in depth. The boxes or tubs should be arranged about the roof to suit the taste and fancy of the owner. For example, a row of boxes may be placed around the margin in which to grow plants to trail over the parapet, especially in the case of " leads " over a projecting shop. The large tubs may be distributed about the centre, and the smaller boxes between. _It is possible to so arrange them to form beds with paths between. Wire or latticework arches may be fixed here and there in boxes over the paths, and creepers grown to trail over them. In the corners miniature rockeries may also be formed of stone or burrs, on which to grow alpine plants. It is possible also to have a miniature water-garden, composed of a zinc bath embedded in stones, or virgin cork. ROOF GARDENS, 51 The ingenious gardener miglat, indeed, construct a very pretty garden by tlie exercise of a little taste and skill. Soil. — As it is not an easy matter to frequently cliauge the soil, this should be of good quality in the first instance. A good general compost consists of two parts of loam and one of equal parts of leaf-mould, decayed manure, and coarse silver sand. To every bushel of compost add a quart of bone- meal. Each tub or box should have about two inches of cinders or broken bricks, to serve as drainage, placed in the bottom before adding the soil. What to Grow. — The next question is the kind of plants, etc., suitable for a roof garden. In a general way we may mention that any of the plants advised for window sills and balconies are equally suitable for a roof garden. But it will, perhaps, be more helpful to the reader if we repeat the latter names with a few additions, so that he may have the information ready to hand to act upon. Few persons, excepting those who have dabbled in roof gardening, are pro- bably aware of the great variety of shrubs, trees, and plants that ma}' be grown under such conditions.' We remember inspecting a roof garden in Bishopsgate Street, London, some years ago, where we were surprised to see birch, willow, and lime trees of fair size, to say nothing of privet, aucubas, and euonymuses, flourisliing in lioxes on a roof. These trees had been growing for years in the same soil, and with no other additional food than ordinary water would supply. It will thus be seen that the roof gardener will not be hampered for want of suitable subjects to grow. We will now deal with the yarious types of vegetation : Trees and Shrubs. — Among deciduous trees suitable for growing in large tubs the Birch (Betuhis alba). Lime (T;lia europnea). Sycamore (Acer pseudo-plantanus), Willows (Salix alba, and babylonica), Tree of Heaven (Ailantus glandulosus). and the Black Poplar (Populus nigra) will make sturdy VUle e''2 52 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. trees and flourish for years if planted in the autumn, and kept well watered in summer. Of course, these trees never grow more than a few feet high, but they have a refreshing and pleasing appearance wlien clothed with green foliage in summer. Of shrubs the most suitable sorts to grow of the flowering and deciduous type are the Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius), white; Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguinea), red; and the Persian Lilac (Syringa persica), lilac. In the way of evergreens Aucuba japonica, mottled foliage ; Euonymus japonica, green foliage ; Euonymus aureus, yellow foliage; Evergreen Privet (Ligustrum ovali- foliuni), green foliage ; Ovalifolium aureum (Golden Privet) ; and the Bay Tree (Laurus nobilis), are all suitable. Small standard-trained trees of the latter would be very effective during spring, summer, and early autumn. In winter they would need the protection of a light room. The privets might be planted 6in. apart in boxes a foot wide, and deep around the margin, to form a hedge, if desired. The trees should be grown in tubs 2ft. wide at least, and the other shrubs in tubs or boxes 18in. or so in width and depth." Climbers. — Suitable permanent climbers for a roof garden would be Clematis Jackmanii and Lady Caroline Nevill, the former bearing purple, and the latter lavender flowers in summer. The Virginian Creeper, or Ampelopsis (Vitis quinquefolia), and ivies would also do well on arches. Among the annual climbers the Tall Nasturtium, Canary Creeper, and Coboea scandens may be relied upon to make a pretty effect in summer. The seeds of the two first-named may be sown in the boxes in April, or seedlings planted in May. The Coboea should be obtained as a seedling, and planted out in May. Annuals. — ^The most appropriate annuals to sow in boxes in April for a cheap summer display are dwarf and tall 54 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. nasturtiums, godetias, Meteor marigolds, Viscaria cardinalis, sweet alyssum, candytuft, clarkias, collinsias, eschscholtzias, and Virginian stock. Sweet peas may also be grown with success in tubs or boxes on a roof garden. Sunflowers, too, would do well. Sow the seeds in March. Tender annuals like the Frencli and African marigold, ten-week stock, lobelias, petunias. Phlox Drummondi, and Nicotiana affinis should be procured as seedlings, and planted out late in May. Tender Plants. — For a summer display recourse may be had to is'v-leaved pelargoniums, Tropseolum lobbianvina, single petunias, and lobelias for trailing over the sides of the boxes, and tuberous begonias, zonal, and variegated pelar- goniums, fuchsias, marguerites, and ageratums, for filling the centres of the boxes. It might be possible also to grow cactu.s dahlias in boxes and tubs. Hardy Plants. — ^We have seen violas and pansies doing fairly well on Ixmdon roof gardens. Certainly auriculas, doronicums, Acantlais spinosus. Early-flowering chrysanthe- mums, Solomon'.^ Seal, lilies of the valley, wallflowers, London Pride, Creeping Jenny, German irises, sweet williams, carna- tions, polyanthuses, snapdragons, and periwinkles may be relied upon to succeed. Still the best results must be looked for witli the annuals and tender plants. Bulbs. — Any of the bulbs advised for window boxes will thrive on a roof garden. See list on p. 34. General Remarks — The trees, shrubs, and plants we have described will suffice for the average requirements of a roof garden. Where expense is a secondary considera- tion other and choicer plants may be requisitioned for decorating the roof garden. Lilies, for example, may be purchased when in flower, and their pots plunged in oriia- mental tidjs filled with cocoanut-fibre refuse. Hydrangeas, roses, rhododendrons, and cannas in full blossom mav be 56 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. obtained, and treated in a similar way. Graceful foliagu plants like bamboos, Miscanthus sinensis (Eulalia gracillima), a plant with silvery grassy leaves; Grevillea robusta, a shrubby plant with fern-like foliage; green and variegated aspidistras; Fatsia japonica (the so-called Aralia); New Zea- land Flax (Phormius tenax variegatum), a handsome varie- gated plant; the Blue Gum (Eucalyptus globulus); palms and ferns may be utilised in summer for adding charm and beauty to the roof garden. In this case ornamental tubs or vases filled with fibre refuse should be used for holding the plants, the soil being dispensed with. Cultural Details. — The vegetation planted out will require careful watering throughout spring and summer. On the evenings of hot days all the plants should be sprayed with water to cleanse and refresh the foliage. In autumn and winter no water will be required, except in the case of evergreen shrubs in small pots, and then about one applica- tion will suffice. Plants grown in pots will require watering daily in spring and summer. From May to September either sprinkle some good fertiliser on the surface of the soil at the rate of an ounce per square yard, and lightlj- scratch it in, once a fortnight; or dissolve half an ounce in each gallon of water applied once a week. Feeding is absolutely necessary on account of the soil naturally being deprived of a good deal of its food elements. The trees may require a little pruning as they increase in age to keep their growths within due bounds. Beyond these precautions there is little more to observe, except the necessity of seeing that the foliage is kept clean. WINDOW CASES. 57 CHAPTER XI. WINDOW CASES. The following bints and sketches, showing how to make a window case for growing cacti, orchids, etc., as described on previous pages, were originally contributed by " H. C. R." to ■' Amateur Gardening." A very pretty effect can be obtained inside a dwelling room by means of a window case or conservatory such as that illustrated herewith, and where the window of a dining-room or other important apartment of a house looks upon a back- yard, or has an objectionable outlook, a contrivance to hold plants and flowers forms one of the best and most artistic means of making a screen and improving matters, The sketclies accompanj-ing illustrate one of the best and simplest forms of case. It is made in five sections, namely, two ends, the front, the top or roof, and the bottom, these being screwed together. The length and height of a case of this descrip- tion depends upon the width and height of the window. The case should fit exactly between the brickwork of the window and the highest part of the roof be level with the meeting rails of the two sashes, as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and before the various pieces of wood are cut out and pre- pared, all necessarjf measurements should be taken. The length of the case illustrated is 3ft., the height next the window 2ft. 10|in., and the height at the lowest point 2ft. 2in. ; whilst the width at the bottom is 1ft. 3in., and at the widest point 1ft. 9 in. Construction. — Good, sound, red or white deal should be used in making the case, the principal members or parts of each section being not less than IJin. square, rebated as necessary to receive the glass. The glazing bars should be 58 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. IJin. by £in. All the wood should be planed perfectly smooth, and, if desired, can be obtained ready prepared at a reason- able cost from dealers in horticultural timber. Although, no doubt, tenon Joints make the best work, very few amateurs can make them satisfactorily in a reasonable time, and halv- ing will probably be found a more ready method of joining the A WiNDOw-SiLL Case. Fig. 1. Case completo ; Fijr. 2, Plaii ; Pig. 3, Section'; Tie:?. 4, 5, Halving Fig. 6, Fixing glazing bal-p. joints ; various members together; and, if plenty of good nails and screws are used, and the joints neatly made, a strong and well- constructed contrivance will result. Figs. 4 and 5 show the simplest methods of halving the outer timbers together, and 60 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Fig. 6 one method of fixing the glazing bars, two nails also being used to make this joint stronger, one driven in from the side and one from underneath. The top of the case should be made to open by being hinged with a pair of 2in. wrought butts to a piece of wood across the back, and have a set-open fastener and stay fixed at the bottom so that air can be admitted as required. The bottom should be formed of fin. thick boards screwed to the underside of the case, and have a number of holes bored through so that any superfluous mois- ture will drain-away. When the various sections are com- pleted they should be firmly screwed together, and prepara- tions made for fixing the case to the window, the sheet of glass at each side next the brickwork first being put in, but the remainder of the glass should be left out until the case is fixed. The case is held in position and supported by screwing it at each side to wood wedges driven into the joints of the brick- work, the heads of the various screws being shown in the sectional drawing. Brackets. — Brackets should also be fixed underneath, and these will vary in shape and construction according to the projection and kind of window sill. One method of forming the brackets is shown in Fig. 3, the back pieces of wood being screwed to wedges driven into the wall under the sill. The woodwork should be coated with red lead priming, and all joints and cracks stopped with putty, and a coat of paint be given, after which the glass may be put in. Twenty-one ounce sheet glass should be used, and be well bedded on putty and fixed in position with sprigs, and, if desired, top puttied and pointed. Any exudation of putty underneath should be neatly trimmed off. When glazed com- plete, two more coats of paint should be given, any colour desired being used, white probably being the best, as it gathers light. Part II.-INDOOR PLANTS. CHAPTER I. FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR ROOMS. A WELL-GROWN", omameiital-leaved plant is a decided orna- ment to a room, and perhaps the most popular of all such plants is the Parlour Palm (Aspidistra lurida). Next in order of popularity is the Indiarubber Plaint (Ficus elastica), the Fig-leaved Palm or Aralia (Fatsia japonica), the New Zealand Pine (Araucaria excelsa), and various palms. Healthy specimens of either, stood in ornamental vases in the hall, or in the rooms, add materially to the attractive- ness and homeliness of the house. Ferns, of course, come under the definition of foliage, but their merits are d?alt with elsewhere. Kinds for Gas-ligrhted Roome — The hardiest and best of all foliage plants for such a poaition are the green and variegated aspidistras. Their tough, leathery foliage withstands heat, cold draughts, and gas extremely well. The variegated form. Aspidistra lurida variegata, is the most choice and handsome of the two. A well-grown plant of this is worth quite a shilling a leaf. Next in order of hardiness and suitability is the Fig-leaf Palm, or so-called " Castor-oil Plant," or "Aralia " (Fatsia 62 Window and indoor gardening, japouica). In a young state this is a very handsome plant, but as age creeps on it is apt to lose its lower leaves and become bare at the base. When unsightly it can be stem- rooted, as advised in the chapter on " Propagation." Then we have the Indiarubber Plant (Ficus elastica), another very handsome plant, but subject to become " leggy " with age. There is a pretty variegated form, but it is rather too tender for culture in rooms. Tliere are also several palms tliat withstand gas well, these being the " Kentias " (Howea belmoreana and fosteri- aua), Corypha australis, Livistonia sinensis, Phoenix re- clinata and rupicola, and Arcliontophoenix elegans. These are practically the best kinds to grow continually in gas- lighted rooms. Kinds for Non-Gaslighted Rooms. — Here there is a wider choice of subjects to select from. Among palms, Cocos weddelliana, a very graceful kind; Chrysalidocarpus lutescens and Thrinax elegans may be mentioned as ex- tremelj- pretty kinds to grow. Then Araucaria excelsa is a very elegant coniferous tree; the Blue Gum (Eucalyptus globosa), an interesting, bluish- leaved plant with fragrant foliage ; Dracaena indivisa and Bruanti, plants with graceful, narrow leaves ; Anthericuni variegatum and Ophiopogon jaburan variegatum, plants with variegated narrow foliage ; Cyperus alternifolius (Um- brella Plant), witli narrow, grassy leaves arranged in whorls at the top of slender stems, similar to an open umbrella; and Grevillea robusta, a plant with finely-cut foliage. There is also a pretty grass called Isolepis gracilis, which makes a neat, elegant little plant for small vases. Miscanthus (Eulalia) japonicus folius stricatus has long grassy leaves striped white and green, and is a most graceful room plant. Asparagus plumosus and sprengeri are both pretty and ele- gant-leaved plants for a similar position. The Elephant's Ear Begonia (Begonia Rex) has handsome marbled foliage, and this plant does fairly well in rooms. Of course, those who have hothouses may command other FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR ROOMS. fig plants for decorating the room for a brief period, but not for continuous growth in rooms. An interesting plant to grow on a table near a sunny win- dow in a warm room is the Artillery, or Pistol Plant (Pilea muscosa). It belongs to the Nettle family, has finely-cut, green foliage, and insignificant flowers, the buds of which, when they come into contact with moisture, burst and dis- charge their pollen grains in the foi-m of a cloud. These Artillery Plant (Pilea musoosa). An interestiug plant to grow in a warm room. Its miniatnre buds bnrst when they come in contact with moisture and discharge their pollen like smoke from a gun, hence its common name. discharges, accompanied by the volumes of smoke-like pollen, have secured for it the name of the Artillery, or Pistol Plant. Apart from the latter fact, the plant has a decidedly pretty fern-like appearance, and is well worthy of culture indoors. General Treatment — Strict attention should be paid to- the advice given in the chapters on feeding, water- 6i WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. ing, health, etc., published elsewhere. If these details are carefully followed, all the foregoing plants may be relied upon to thrive for many years, and many of them to grow into handsome specimens. The writer's better half has some of the finest specimens of aspidistras and date palms ever seen grown continuously in rooms, and her success is due entij-ely to- rigidly pursuing the system of watering, feeding, and cleansing the foliage described elsewhere. In purchasing plants for the first time of any of the fore- going, never buy those that have been exposed on hawkers' barrows. They are bound to become unhealthy before long owing to exposure to the air. The best plan is to buy from a florist who has had the plants properly hardened, and when they can be sent direct from the nursery to the home. Hundreds of palms and plants die yearly through not ob- serving the foregoing precaution. CHAPTER II. FLOWERING PLANTS FOR ROOMS. In addition to bulbs, roses, and orchids described in other chapters, there are a number of other flowering plants suit- able for growing in rooms, a list of which we append at the end of this chapter. Some of these are of shrubby habit, and either evergreen or deciduous, and others are of a her- baceous, or soft-stemmed, habit. It will be well, perhaps, if we classify them here. Shrubby Plants vwith Everg^reen Foliage- — These are acacias. Azalea indica, Coronilla glauca, Cj-tisus racemosus or " Grenista," Daphne indica, epacrises, boronias, camellias, ericas, and Nerium oleander (the Oleander). FLOWERING PLANTS FOR ROOMS. 65 Shrubby Plants with Deciduous Foliagfe. — Azalea mollis and Deutzia gracilis. [Photo : Willongliby Shaw. A Good Window Plant — Campanula isophylla alba. The Drooping White Harebell is an excellent plant for growing as illusti-ated, or in baskets suspended in a ennny window. Plants of Perennial Duration—Agath^a, alon- soa, arum, auricula, begonia, calceolaria, campanula, chry- 66 WINDO'W AND INDOOR GARDENING. santhemum, cyclamen, dielytra, francoa, fuchsia, helio- trope, hydrangea, lily of the valley, marguerite, mimulus, ophiopogon, pelargonium, Solomon's Seal, spiraea, astilbe, Calla lily, clivias, ete. These may be grown on from year to year, increasing them by cuttings or seeds when they get too old or unsatisfactory. Plants of Annual Duration. — Cinerarias, lobelias, petunias, primulas, and mignonette. It is true the secorM, third, and fourth plants mentioned may be grown on for more than a year, but better results are obtained from young plants reared annualh', discarding the old ones. In- door gardeners will find it more satisfactory to buy these plants in flower, as they are not easy to rear from seed in a room. Treatment of the Shrubby Kinds. — All will re- quire careful watering. Azaleas, epacrises, and ericas espe- cially must not be allowed to get in the slightest degree dry at the roots, otherwise their leaves will fall off, and it is next to impossible to get new ones to form unless the plants are placed in a heated greenhouse under the care of a skilled gardener. Ericas and epacrises, in fact, will not recover, and must perforce be thrown away if the leaves fall off. Water twice a week from March to October, and once a week after- wards. In summer spray the foliage with water morning and evening. From June to September stand them outdoors in partial shade, placing a piece of slate under each pot. When the flower-buds of azaleas are beginning to open pick off any young shoots growing immediately under them. After the cytisus, ericas, and epacrises have flowered cut away the old flower stems close to the ordinary growths. The azaleas will require no pruning, only the picking off of dead flowers. The oleander should have those shoots that have borne flowers cut back to three inches from their base after the flowers have "faded. Water once a month only in winter. The daphne must not be pruned, but simply allowed to grow as it pleases. FLOWERING PLANTS FOR ROOMS. 67 When the Azalea mollis sheds its leaves in winter, withhold water and store the plant in a cellar till the end of January ; then give a good watering, and place in a warm position. As a rule, this plant does not flower well after the first year. It really requires to be planted out in the garden for a couple of years to make new flower buds, then be lifted and repotted. The deutzia should be pruned moderately close after flowering, be kept indoors till June, then stood outside for the summer and be brought indoors in December. Treatment of Perennial Plants. — The agathsea requires to be moderately watered in winter, have its straggly shoots shortened slightly in February, and then started to grow again. The alonsoa should be similarly treated. The arum should be potted in autumn, kept dry until growth begins, then be carefully watered all the winter, and be kept dry during the summer, as this is its season of rest. Auriculas should be grown outdoors during the summer, brought indoors in autumn, kept barely moist till March, then be topdressed and repotted, and started into growth, after which water freely. Campanulas require very little water from October to March. Repot then, and start to grow, increasing the water supply as growth proceeds. In summer water freely. After flowering cut off the flower stems. Chrysanthemums are really best purchased in flower, as it is difficult for the indoor gardener to find room to grow the plants properly. Clivia miniata should be kept well watered in spring and summer, and moderately so in autumn and winter. The plant only requires repotting once in every four or five years. Feed with liquid manure when flower trusses form. Cyclamen make their growth from August to the following April, after which they gradually go to rest. Keep uni- formly moist during the growing period. When the leaves begin to fade gradually withhold the water supply, and keep nearly, not quite, dry. Repot early in August. Better to buy new plants yearly. p2 68 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. Dielytra roots should be purchased in autumn, planted in pots, and treated like bulbs till growth, begins, then be brought to the light. Water freely till the foliage begins to die, then gradually withhold and store the pots in a cool place till autumn, when repot and treat as before. They will flower the second, although not so well as the first, year. Spiraeas and astilbes require similar treatment. Fran- coas grow all the year round near a sunny window. Water freely in spring and summer, and moderately in autumn. Repot every spring and feed with manure in summer. Fuchsias require generous treatment in spring and sum- mer. Water freely, feed liberally then, and spray the foli- age morning and evening with water, or place outdoors during a shower. In spring pinch off the points of any straggly shoot to make the plants grow more bushy. In autumn gradually give less water, and in November store the pots in a cellar or other cool place, and give no water. In February prune the plants into shape, repot, and start to grow again. Heliotropes should be kept "slightly dry and warm during the winter, be pruned and repotted in March, then started to grow and be watered freely in summer. Hydrangeas are best purchased in flower as young plants with single stems carrying large heads of flowers. Simply keep moist whilst in flower, after which give the plants to a friend who has a greenhouse, or throw them away. Lily of the valley roots should be purchased in flower to ensure the best results. It is rather difficult to get these plailts to flower nicely if grown prior to the flowering stage. Marguerites are really best obtained in flower and dis- carded afterwards. After the first year they grow very straggly, and make indifferent plants. Mimulus, or musk, is easily grown. Grow in shade, give plenty of water in spring and summer and very little after- M'ards. Repot every spring. The ophiopogon merely re- quires its roots to be kept moist always, and to be repotted every two or three years. Solomon's Seal should be treated like the dielytra. STAE-FLOWEHED PnlML'LA. Primula stellata is a more free-flowerinif and less formal typo of Chinese primula than the large-flowered section. Also easier to grow. FLOWERING PLANTS FOR ROOMS. 69 Zonal pelargoniums like a sunny position. Little water must be given them in autumn and winter, a moderate amount in spring, and plenty in summer. In March straggly plants should have their shoots shortened fairly close, and when new growth begins be repotted. Water carefully at, first. If one shoot grows stronger than another nip off its point to make it throw out side shoots. Turn the plant round a little each day. In summer give liquid m.anure once a week. In autumn give less water and little in winter. Regal pelargoniums must be kept moderately moist in autumn and winter, and have more water in spring. Grow in a light position, and see that insects do not infest the shoots. After flowering, gradually withhold water, cut the shoots back in July to two inches, and a few weeks later repot and start to grow. Ivy-leaved pelargoniums should be treated like the zonals. The Calla lily grows during the autumn, winter, and spring, and rests in summer. See, therefore, that it has plenty of moisture whilst growing, and very little when at rest. When the flowers show, feed with liquid manure. Repot in August. Clivia miniata thrives well in rooms. Its leathery foliage and yellow and red flowers impart to it quite a handsome appearance. In spring and summer water freely; in autumn and winter keep somewhat dry. Agapanthus umbellatus, a blue-flowered lily, requires similar treatment. Treatment of Annual Plants. — These, of course, are to be purchased in flower, as previously advised. Their treatment, therefore, whilst in bloom consists of keeping the soil uniformly moist, the foliage free from dust and insects, and feeding oocasionally with weak liquid manure. As regards the soils, potting, propagation, watering, feed- ing, and general health of flowering plants, see the various chapters elsewhere on these subjects. Finally, we now sub- mit the following list of plants, with their colours, etc. FLOWERING PLANTS Name. Acacia armata , , grandis Agathsea ccelestis . . . Alonsoa incisifolia Arum sanctum Astilbe japonica . . . Auricula ... Azalea Begonia Calceolaria shrubby Campanula isophylla , , , , alba „ balchiniana Chrysanthemum ... Cineraria ... Coronilla glauca . . . Cyclamen persioum Cytisus racemosus Daphne odora Deutzia gracilis . . . Dielytra spectahilis Diplacus glutinosus Epacris hyacinthiflora Erica gracilis „ hyemalis Krancoa ramosa . . . Fuchsia Heliotropium Hydrangea... Lily nf the Valley Lobelia erinus Marguerite Mimulus Harrisoni ,, moschatus Nerium oleander ... Ophiopogon jaburan Pelargonium Petunia Primula Forbesii . . . , , oboonica ,, sinensis ... , , kewensis Richardia Africana Streptocarpus hybrida Spiraea astilboides Oolonr. Yellow Yellow Blue and white Scarlet Green and pur. White Various Various Various Yellow, brown Blue White Variegated Various Various Yellow Various Yellow Flesh White Pink Salmon-red ... Pink, etc. Red, purple ... Pink White ... Various Blue White, blue ... White Bhie or white... White, yellow. Yellow Yellow Pink, white ... Blue Various Purple, white... Pink Pink, rose Various ... I Yellow White Various White Season of Flowering:. Height. Spring ... 3 to 4 ft. ... Spring 3 to 4 ft. ... Summer . . . 1 ft. Slimmer . . . 18 in. May 15 in. Spring 18 in. to 2 ft. Spring 6 in. Spring 3 ft. Summer . . . Sin. Summer . . . 1 ft. Summer . . . 6 in. Summer ... 6 in. Summer ... 6 in. Autumn ... 3 to 4 ft. ... Spring 12 to 18 in. Spring •2 to 3 ft. ... Winter 6 to 8 in. ... Spring 2 to 3 ft. ... Spring 2 ft. Spring 2 to 3 ft. ... Spring 18 in. to 2 ft. Summer . . . 2 to 3 ft. ... Spring 2 ft. Winter ... 18 in. Winter ... -'ft. Summer . . . 18 in. Summer . . . 2 to 4 ft. ... Summer . . . 18 in. Summer . . . 1 to 2 ft. ... Spring 6 in. Summer . . . 6 in. Summer . . . 1 to 2 ft. ... Summer . . . 6 in. Summer 6 in. Summer ... 3 to 6 ft. ... Summer ... 1 ft. Summer . . . 1 to 2 ft. ... Summer . . . 1 ft. Spring 6 in. Winter 6 in. Winter 6 in. Spring 6 in. Spring ... 2 ft. Summer ... 6 in. Spring 18 in. to 2 ft. FOR ROOMS. How Propagated. When. Time to Re-Pot. Popular Name. Cuttings ... Spring March Kangaroo Thorn. Cuttings ... Spring March Cuttings . . . Spring March Blue Marguerite. Cuttings . . . August March Mask Flower. Tubers Autumn Autumn . . . Black Lily. Division ... Autumn November ... False Goat's Beard. Seed, division Spring March Cuttings . . , Spring March Indian Azalea. Seed Spring March Tuberous Begonia. Cuttings . . . Autumn March Slipper-wort. Cuttings ... Spring March Drooping Harebell. Cuttings . . . Spring March Cuttings .. Spring March Cuttings ... Jan., Feb. . March, April Seed July- Cuttings ... Spring March Shrubby Crown Vetch. Seed Oct. or Jan. August Persian Cyclamen. Cuttings ... Spring March Evergreen Laburnum. Cuttings ... Summer March Indian Daphne. Japanese Snow Flower. Cuttings ... May . March Division . . . October October Bleeding Heart. Cuttings . . . Summer March Shrubby Mimulus. Cuttings ... Spring March Australian Heath. Cuttings . . . Spring March Winter Heath. Cuttings . . . Spring March Winter Heath. Seed, cut. ... Spring March Maiden's Wreath. Cuttings . . . Spring March Cuttings ... Spring March Heliotrope. Cuttings ... April or Aug. March Oflfsets Autumn November ... Seed Spring Cuttings ... Sp. orautmn. March Cuttings . . . Spring March Harrison's Musk. Cuttings . . . Spring March Musk. Cuttings . . . Summer March Oleander. Division ... Spring March Cuttings . . . Sp. or autmn. March Zonal Geranium. Seed, cut. ... Spring March Seed Spring Seed Spring Seed Spring Chinese Primula. Seed Spring Division . . . August August Calla or Arum Lily. Seed Spring Division ... Autumn November ... Hi 1 1 1 I ^HVwIl^I^^^H ^9 Ik y'« jP^gl^ ^ v^jU^I ^^^j^^^^Hb ^^n^^a^^^l^^S w^^ ^mk ^ . " ^^yd^^^H ^m ^ "' • 'ki^'^ i 1 1 9 ^^^^^^^^^hb^^ ^I^Ij i 1 1 ■ ^^M fef ) TT ' 1 |H ^^^^^^m 'C^^^^^SSj^^ K ^-i :^ ■ ''\|^H ^^^H '■:Afi^..^^^a^^ HHH^?^: ;.^r.i^Kifli ^,.,:-.. :^^:£.'^2!Sf:!lSHnlHBHB^^^^I [Photo by Chiis. Jones. The *'Gentsta"— Cytisus racemosus. Aji evergreen shrub bearing- yellow, fragrant blossoms in spring. An excellent room plant. BULBS FOR ROOMS. 73 CHAPTER III. BULBS FOR ROOMS. Bulbs are of comparatively easy cultivation in pots, fibre, or water, and at the same time showy flowers for brighten- ing the home in late winter and spring. These remarks apply especially to what are called Dutch bulbs — ^hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, snowdrops, and narcissi. There are, how- ever, other bulbous plants which may be grown indoors for flowering at other seasons of the year, as lilies, vallotas, hippeastrums, etc., and the object of this chapter is to deal with all types of bulbs suitable for indoor growth. Bulbs in Pots. — The kinds suitable for this purpose are hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, crocuses, scillas, snowdrops, muscaris, chionodoxas, irises, alliums, amaryllis, ornitho- galums, hippeastrums, liliums, gloxinias, and vallotas. The snowdrops, crocuses, scillas, muscaris, chionodoxas, and irises should be grown in three-inch pots, about five bulbs in each. Hyacinths, if large bulbs, are best grown singly in six-inch potsj otherwise grow them, also tulips and narcissi, three in a six-inch pot. Ornithogalums and alliums may be grown five in a six-inch pot; vallotas and amaryllis or hippeastrums, one in a six-inch pot; one lily in a six- inch or three in an eight-inch pot. The Onion Plant (Or- nithogalum longibracteatum) should also be grown one in a six-inch pot. The method of potting bulbs is fully described in the chapter on " Potting,'' which see. After potting, give no water, but immediately transfer the pots to a cool, dark cupboard, cellar, outhouse, or any place where the air is cool. The pots should, if possible, be covered with cocoanut- 74 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. fibre refuse or cinder ashes to keep them cool, moist, and dark. Never place newly-potted bulbs in a dry cupboard or expose them to the light. In about six weeks after potting, snowdrops, crocuses, chionodoxas, hyacinths, tulips, and narcissi will begin to push their growths through the soil. Remove the covering and lift out any that have^ made an inch of growth, and leave those not so far advanced, re-covering them for another fortnight — in fact, till growth begins. Those removed bring to partial, not full, light, and let them remain until their blanched growths turn green ; then place close to the win- dow. Water moderately at first, and when growth is active give a larger supply. Examine those left under the cover- ing at intervals of a week or so, and gradually bring them forward to the light. The lilies will start to grow the last of all. When flower spikes begin to form place a neat stake to each and give weak liquid manure once a week till the flowers are fully open, then cease. Manure discolours the delicate tints of the flowers if applied after they are fully blown. Lilies are liable to be infested with aphides, so keep, an eye on the young shoots. After flowering, the hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, crocuses, snowdrops and scillas should be placed on one side to! finish their growth. When the foliage dies, withhold water, and plant the bulbs out in the garden. They would not flower well a second year in pots. Lilies, after flowering, should gradually have water withheld from them, and be kept quite dry all the winter until new growth begins. The vallota must be kept moist all the winter and spring, and nearly dry in summer, commencing to give water again when the flower-stem shows. Amaryllises make their growth in winter and spring, and require to be kept dry in summer ; and hippeastrums grow in spring and summer, and must be kept dry in autumn and winter. The chionodoxas, irises and alliums usually go to rest after flowering, and require to be kept cool and dry ^C-^'iA-'i A BOWL OF TULIPS. The tulips are grown in moss fibre M described on p. 75. BULBS FOR ROOMS. 15 from the time they lose their foliage until new growth begins. Florists make up very dainty pots of tulips and ferns in mixture m spring. The bulbs for this purpose are grown in boxes, lifted when in flower, and planted with seedling ferns in pots; they are thus only temporarily associated with each other. Gloxinias are often grown with success in windows. Grow in a sunny window. Keep the roots moist in spring and summer, gradually withhold water after flowering, and keep dry till new growth commences early in the year. Bulbs in Fibre. — A still more interesting way of grow- ing bulbs for room decoration is in bowls or jars filled with a specially-prepared fibre compost. " Doulton " and Japa- nese ware are specially suitable bowls for the purpose. Crocuses to the number of four or five bulbs can be grown in a 2^in. to 4in. size; one bulb of hyacinth, tulip, or nar- cissus in a five-inch size ; three or more in larger sizes. The compost should consist of two parts of cocoanut-fibre refuse and one part each of fine seashell and charcoal, with a handful of artificial manure to every peck of the mixture. Several of our bulb specialists supply the compost ready mixed. In September or early October fill the bowls to within an inch of their rims with the compost, and press it down mode- rately firm. Next press the bulbs into the fibre so that their points just show through ; then transfer the bowls to a cellar or dark, cool place, and cover them with fibre refuse. No water must be given. When the shoots are an inch long remove them from the covering, bring to partial light for a week, then place in full light, and apply enough tepid rain- water once a week to just keep the fibre moist. Turn the bowls round a little daily, and support the flojver stems with neat sticks. No drainage is required in the bowls. After flowering, plant the bulbs in the garden, as they are of no further use for fibre culture. Hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, snowdrops, crocuses, chionodoxas, scillas, muscaris. 76 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. aud Roman hyacinths, are specially suited for this mode of culture. Bulbs in Moss. — A novel way of growing hyacinths, etc. : Procure fresh moss from a hedge bank, shape it into a ball; then arrange bulbs of hyacinths around it, cover them with moss, and secure in position by winding twine round the ball as the work proceeds. When finished, run a hooked wire through the ball, dip the latter in water, and hang up in a dark cellar till growth begins, when suspend in a window. Water after growth commences once a week. Tulips, crocuses, and snowdrops may be grown in a similar way. Bulbs in Water — This is another delightful way of growing bulbs indoors; indeed, it is so simple that a child might do it. Procure the special bulb glasses sold for the purpose by bulb and china dealers. Tliey are made in various colours, but plain crystal is the best. Opaque vases are also sold for a similar purpose. The next, and most important, item is to procure good bulbs. In each glass or vase put a lump of charcoal to keep the water sweet, and then fill up nearly to the base of the neck, or expanding top or cup, with rain water. Place the bulb in the cup, and add water so that it nearly, but not quite, touches the base of the bulb. After this is done re- move the glasses to a cool, dark cellar or cupboard, and let them remain until plenty of roots are formed ; then remove to partial light for a week, and, finally, to a light position. If the water has evaporated replenish the suppl)-. In the event of the flower stem requiring support, get a stout piece of wire, thrust the lower end into the bulb, and secure the stem to the upper part. After flowering, plant the bulbs in the garden, as they are of no further use for glass culture. Bulbs in Bowls. — The Chinese Sacred Lily (Narcissus tazetta) is usually grown as follows. Procure a Japanese BULBS FOR ROOMS. 77 bowl and place a layer of pebbles in the bottom, then add enougli rain water to nearly, but not quite, cover them. Place the bulbs on top, pack a few pebbles between them, and remove the bowls to a cool, dark place till growth has begun and roots formed, when remove to the light. Re- plenish the water from time to time as it evaporates. Bulbs; Placed in Glasses. The bnlba are shown placed in the neck or cup of the usual type of glass used for the purpose. Note the names arq pasted on the outsides. The bulbs are only suitable for planting out in the garden after flowering. This bulb should not be grown in rooms where gas is burnt, as the fumes often injure the buds and prevent them developing. 78 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. BULBS SUITABLE FOR Name. Colour. Flowering Period. HeisM. Allium Neapolitaniim ... White May 1 ft. ... Amaryllis belladonna Eose August 1 ft. ... Babiana plicata Violet, blue May 6 in. ... 5) ,j ... ... White and blue ... May 6 in. ... Bulbocodium vernum Rosy purple February . . . 6 in. ... Calochortus lilacinus Lilac and purple . . . July 9 in. ... venustus ... White July 1 ft. ... Chionodoxa lucilise Blue and white . . . March 6 in. ... , , sardensis Blue March 6 in. ... Crocus Blue, yel. and white March 6 in. ... Galanthus nivalis White February ... 6 in. ... ,, Fosteri White February . . . 6 in. ... Hsemanthus coocineus ... Scarlet February . . . 1 ft. .. Hyacinth Various Feb.toApril 1 ft. .. „ Roman White January . . . 9 in. ... Iris histrioides Blue, yellow, violet February . . . 6 in. ... „ reticulata Blue, yellow February ... 6 in. ... Laohenalia tricolor Red, green, etc. ... Spring 6 in. ... Lilium auratuni White, crimson ... August 4ft. ... ,, longiflorum White Summer . . . 3 ft. ... „ „ Harrisii White Spring 3 ft. ... „ speciosum Red, white, etc. ... August 4 ft. ... Muscari botryoides Blue April 6 in. ... „ „ alba... White April 6 in. ... Narcissi '. Yellow, white Spring 1ft. Nerine sarniensis Salmon September . 1 ft. ... Ornithogalum Arabieum . White June 18in.... ,, longi- bracteatum White June 18 in.... Oxalis cernua Yellow Spring 6 in. ... „ fl.p. ... Double Spring 6 in. ... ,, floribunda Rose Spring 6 in. ... Scilla sibirioa Blue March 6 in. ... Sprekelia f ormosissima ... Crimson Summer ... 2ft. ... Tulip Various Spring 1ft. ... Vallota purpurea Red August 1ft. ... BULBS FOR ROOMS. 79 CULTURE IN ROOMS. How to Grow. When to Plant. Popular Name. Pots Sept. or Oct. ... Daffodil Garlic. Pots August Belladonna Lily. Pots September Baboon Root. Pots September Baboon Root. Pots September Spring Meadow Saffron. Pots November Mariposa Lily. Pots November Mariposa Lily. Pots or fibre Sept. to Nov. ... Glory of the Snow. Pots or fibre Sept. to Nov. . . . Glory of the Snow. Pots, fibre or water . . . Sept. to Nov. . . . Crocus. Pots or fibre Sept. or Oct. . . . Snowdrop. Pots Sept. or Oct. ... Snowdrop. Pots Aug. to Nov. . . . Blood Flower. Pots, fibre or water ... Oct. and Nov. . . . Hyacinth. Pots, fibre or water ... Aug. to Nov. . . Roman Hyacinth. Pots Sept. or Oct. ... Bulbous Iris. Pots Sept or Oct. . . . Bulbous Iris. Pots or moss Aug. or Sept. ... Cape Cowslip. Pots Nov. to Feb. ... Japanese Lily. Pots Sept. to Nov. . . . Trumpet Lily. Pots Sept. to Nov. ... Bermuda or Easter Lily. Pots Nov. to Feb. ... Spotted Lily. Pots or fibre Sept. to Nov. . . . Grape Hyacinth. Pots or fibre Sept. to Nov. . . . Grape Hyacinth. Pots, fibre or water . . . Sept. to Nov. . . . Daftodil. Pots Aug. to Oct. ... Guernsey Lily. Pots Sept. to Nov. ... Star of Bethlehem. Pots Sept. to Nov. . . . Onion Plant. Pots Jan. and Feb. . Bermuda Buttercup. Pots Jan. and Feb.... Bermuda Buttercup. Pots Jan. and Feb.... Rosy Wood Sorrel. Pots or fibre Sept. to Nov. ... Feb. to March... Squill. Pots Jacobean Lily. Pots, fibre or water ... Sept. to Nov. ... Tulip. Pots August Scarboro' Lily. ' Japanese Lily (Lilium aiiratum). One of the showiest and best of the lilies for indoor gardens. Should, however, not be grown indoors by those who object to strong perfumes. FERNS IN ROOMS. 81 CHAPTER IV. FERNS IN ROOMS. Ferns are very popular with indoor gardeners. Their ele- gant and graceful fronds possess a charm and beauty un- surpassed by any other class of indoor plants. Whether grown in miniature jars or bowls, in large pots, in orna- mental vases, in hanging baskets in the window, or in cases they make very beautiful and interesting subjects for the decoration of rooms. Culture in Rooms. — Ferns are indispensable room- plants, and, if suitable sorts are chosen, give very little trouble. They should not be purchased in winter or early spring, but preferably in summer, whefi the temperature everywhere is much the same. When the weather is cold they are half killed by the exposure thereto before purchase, especially from hawkers. The Blue-green Polypody (Poly- podium aureum) and the broad whit« and green Pteris argyrea should not be purchased in the autumn, as they are too tender for room-culture in winter. The Maidenhair also requires careful winter treatment, and it will be best not to make it one's first purchase. The pterises or ribbon ferns are the best to commence with, and will stand much rough treatment. A shady or semi-shady window is necessary ; also a liberal water supply. With the ferns in tiny pots, so often seen, this is best'given by immersion for several minutes. Repotting should be done from April to July — it is not needed annually — say once in two years, until six-inch pots are reached, when they will go three or four years. An occasional overhead watering is very beneficial. Soot water may be given healthy plants not repotted the same season, from April to August. A good compost is loam two parts, leaf-mould or peat two parts, and sand one part. Pot firmly. Propagation, 82 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. other than division wlien repotting, is not advisable in room- culture. Yellowness of the fronds is the result of too much sunlight or exhaustion of the soil. Shade in the former and repot in the latter case. Brown patches and tips are caused iu the same way as with palms. Immunity from draughts is essential in fern culture. Suitable Kinds for Rooms. — The following sorts are suitable for growing in pots or vases in rooms where gas is consumed : Asplenium bulbiferum and Colensoi, Davallia canariensis (Hare's-foot Fern), Aspidium falcatum, Nephro- dium moUe, Nephrolepis exaltata (Ladder Fern), Aspidium angulare Baylise, angulare proliferum densum and munitum, Pteris cretica, cretica magnifica, serrulata (Ribbon Fern), serrulata cristata, serrulata major, cristata, and tremula, Soolopendrium vulgare crispum, vulgare laoeratum, and vul- gare grandicep. The Elk's Horn Fern (Platycerium alci- corne) is also a most interesting fern to grow on a block of wood. Adiantum cuneatum (Maidenhair), decorum, Pacottii, WiUiamsii, and Phlebodium aureum (Golden Polypody) mar like^\'is6 be grown in rooms not lighted by gas. Ferns in Porous Jars. — An interesting and uncom- mon way of growing ferns indoors is in porous jars or pots. Porous pots can be obtained from dealers in electrical ap- pliances, or a soft, saturated, badly-burnt flower pot will answer. In the latter case cork up the drainage hole. The fern is then pulled to pieces and bound round the outside of the pot, together with lumps of peat, by means of wire, and the whole well soaked in tepid water. 'The porous pot in the centre should be kept filled with water, the percolation of which will keep the soil and fern moist. Creeping stemmed species are best suited for this manner of culture, such as the ordinary Maidenhair (Adiantum cuneatum), the British Maidenhair (Adiantum capillus veneris and its varieties), A. assimile, Squirrel's-foot Fern (Davallia bullata), etc. Of course, a shady position is necessary, and an established plant would also do well in a north or shady window. FERNS IN ROOMS. 83 Fern Balls. — Some years ago a curious method of grow- ing ferns was introduced from Japan. A foundation of moss or peat fibre is encased with, rhizomes of the Squirrel's-foot Fern (Davallia buUata), these being secured in position by wire. Besides the familiar ball, other fanciful foundations Adiantum Pacotti. A pretty fern for a non-gae-lig^lited room. Belong-s to the Maidenhair section of indoor ferns. are made in tho shape of monkeys, birds, harps, etc., and the rhizomes similarly secured to these. The ball method is, however, the most satisfactory one. They may be pur- G 2 84 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. chased of any florist. Amateurs "would probably experience a diflBculty in procuring the rhizomes for making up the balls themselves. When purchased, fern balls are ready for hanging up in a shady window. They should be soaked on arrival for two hours in tepid rain water, and then drained before hanging up ; a thorough soaking similarly for ten minutes every alter- nate morning will be sufiBcient after this, unless the weather should be very hot and dry, when soak daily. If hung in a window with a sunny aspect it is desirable to soak the balls daily in summer. Shade of some kind should also be applied to the roots. When grown in a room it is easy to soak the ball in a bucket, after which the water can be poured away, and the plant allowed to drain for half an hour before hanging up. The plants make better growth the second season than the first. If the shape is to be preserved the rhizomes must be pegged with bent wire or hair-pins to the ball as they grow. In the autumn the fronds turn yellow and fall, when less water should be given ; during winter the roots need only to be kept from getting dust-dry, and may be stored in any cool frost-proof position. Ferns under Glass Shades. — A beautiful fern, or group of ferns, growing in a room, is a refreshing object for the eye, especially in a great city, remarks a writer in "Amateur Gardening.'' For such situations the Wardian case is an absolutely artistic delight, whereas in a country house its artificiality is displeasing, for the ferns would thrive as well without it. There is no need to possess a Wardian case, though, in order to be able to grow perfect specimens of ferns in the smallest room of the smokiest town — a sufficiently tall bell-glass will answer the purpose just as well, if stood over a pot plant or plants ; the edges of the glass must go into a saucer or dish of water, but the pots must not stand in water, so a few china tiles of pretty colour should be laid over the saucer for them to rest on. It may be thought that even new red earthenware pots are FERNS ilSf ROOMS. 8S unsightly; there is no reason, however, why they should not be covered, either by having pieces of virgin cork fastened A MlKIATUKE FeRNEKY. A simple way of growing ferns in a room. In tlie present case an ordinary g:Ias8 jar is inverted over a few seedlings of Aspleninm bulbifernm planted in a shallow sancer. It is only necessaiy to occasionally soak tlie sancer in water to keep the ferns in good health for a long period. together round them, or by dried and washed moss tied round by invisible green thread. The glass shade must be 86 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. removed three times a week for a few hours to give air, and can then be washed and polished; the brighter the glass the better will be the appearance of the ferns. This air-giving is best done very early in the morning, that being the time, when the atmosphere is least smoky — the next best time is night. Ferns can be planted or potted in July for growing under glass in our rooms. Maidenhairs are all suitable, but Adiantum setulosum gives an especially pretty effect; Adian- tum capillus-veneris is the true Maidenhair. Adiantum cuneatum, A. assimile, A. formosum, A. fulvum, and A. tinctum, are excellent. Davallia canariensis (the Hare's- foot Fern) is a popular one. Woodsia ilvensis is a beautiful fern, and Woodsia hyperborea can also be higlily lecom- mended. Aspidium proliferum is sure to thrive. In all probability Selaginella laevigata will succeed except in a cold locality, if protection from frosts be given by covering the case well, or removing it from the window at night. This blue moss is one of the loveliest of all associates for ferns, so should assuredly be tried. Selaginella denticulata is well known, and veiy useful. Adiantum sulphureum is a golden fern that is not difficult to manage ; Cheilanthes fragrans, orange-tinted, will also consent to live without stove heat. Scolopendrium vulgare bimarginata cordatum, S. v. ramo- marginatum, and S. v. Wardi are all good. Ferns in Wardian Cases — This is a most interest- ing way of growing choice ferns that cannot be successfully grown in the dry air of rooms. A case may be purchased complete, or a more commendatory method, where a skilful and industrious pair of hands exist, is to build one for one's self. We have seen some very elegant and artistic crea- tions made in spare hours, but the success of the plants does not depend upon the beauty of the case ; on the contrary, an elaborate and heavy design may be deterrent to the plants' welfare, and often a simple structure is best. Whether designed and constructed at home or purchased, fern cases should have as light a framework as is consistent with strength and durability; the panes of glass should be 88 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. clear, and not more numerous than necessary. Ample pro vision must be accorded for admission of air and ventilation, access to all parts of the interior when pla,nted should be easy, and free and perfect drainage should be provided. If the top can He tilted so much the better, and in the event of a small case the whole glass structure should be able to be lifted off. Cases may be made to be heated artificially or can be uuheated. The former is generally accomplished by a re- servoir surrounding the trough that contains the soil, that is either filled periodically with hot water or contains water that is warmed by a lamp or gas jet beneath it. Placing the soil in them should be carefully done. The trough to hold it is usually from six to eight inches deep, and into this first place from two to three inches of either broken crock or cinders as large as hazel nuts. On this place a layer of rough fibry peat about an inch deep, and then fill to the rim with a compost that is made up as fol- lows : Three parts turfy peat, one part fibrous loam, one of coarse Bedfordshire silver sand, and one of broken charcoal and small crocks. The peat and loam should be broken to about the size of walnuts, the whole well mixed together and used rough, not sifted. It is a laudable practice to scald the whole with boiling water, thus destroying insect life and weed seeds that might be troublesome after the plants are established. When this is done the case may be planted as soon as the soil is cool. Suitable Ferns for Wardian Cases. — Out of the large number of ferns that are suitable, those mentioned here are, perhaps, among the easiest to manage, and those likely to succeed well. For an unheated case : Adiantum cuneatum, Asplenium attenuatum, A. viviparum, Blechnum occidentale, Doodia aspera, D. caudata, Lomaria blechnoides, Nipho- bolus lingua, Pteris cretica albo-lineata, Todea superba, and Onychium japonicum. The temperature of the case con- taining these ferns should not fall below 40 deg. A dozen ferns suitable for a heated case might consist of FERNS IN ROOMS. 89 the following : Adiantum tenerum, Anemia adantifolia, As- plenium alatum, Asplenium Belangeri, Blechnum lanoeola- tum, Asplenium zeylanicum, Ilemionitis cordifolia, Pteris denticulata, Lomaria attenuata, Polypodium percussum, As- plenium Colensoi, Adiantum setulnsum, and Doodia amceus. The minimum temperature that should be allowed for these is 55 deg. Most of the selaginellas also will succeed in either case, but preference should be given to the heated one. Manasement of Fern Cases. — In the manage- ment of fern cases more than half the failures might be traced to watering errors. It is a mistake to assume that you cannot give fern cases too much water; this is indeed the case, and if the excess becomes stagnant the destruction is more certain. If the soil has been scalded before plant- ing, and is thoroughly moist, little or no water may be re- quired for some weeks; at any rate, so long as the soil is nicely moist do not water; merely slightly syringe or spray the foliage of the plants carefully occasionally, and enough atmospheric moisture will be maintained. Ventilation should take place every morning for a few minutes, either by tilting the top or by any other means that may have been devised, and at the same time condensed moisture should be wiped from the inside of the glass with a cloth. Spring is an excellent season either for planting or replanting fern cases. 4^ 90 WINDOW AND INDOOR GARDENING. CHAPTER V. FRUITING PLANTS FOR ROOMS. The Winter Cherry and Orange are two familiar plants met with in rooms, and both are of sufficient importance to be dealt with in a chapter by themselves. The Winter Cherry, or Star Capsicum. — This plant, botanically called Solanum capsicastrum, is an ever- green shrub, bearing orange