L-32 A Darnell mnivmitg f itocg j!/pa\'OJn<^ i\.291 6aq i4lynv4 9724 Cornell University Library F 597 L32 Journal of Larocque from the Assiniboine oiin 3 1924 028 912 066 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028912066 Publications of the Canadian Archives — No. 3. JOURNAL OF LAROCQUB ?« 'fl FROM THE . *,■■ " ' ' , 4 "'if ASSINIBOINE TO THE YELLOWSTONE 1805 KniTKD WITH NOTES BY L. J. BURPEE, P.R.G.S. Published by authority of the Minister of Agriculture under the direction of the Archivist OTTAWA GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU 1910 iJ JOURNAL OF LAROCQUE. rC^TBODIICTION. In a letter dated l^ovember 7tli, 1806, Sir Alexander Mac- kenzie writes liia cousin, Roderick McKenzie, of the North West Company : ' When I wrote you respecting the publication of the second edition of my voyages, I had not the most distant idea that it was the intention of the Company to give the His- tory of the Northwest,- and now, instead of asking your assist- ance, I offer you mine, as you are the person that seems to take the lead.' In a foot-note to this letter, in his Bourgeois de la Compdgnie du Nord-Ouest, L. R. Masson throws some further light upon this project : " The Hon. E. McKenzie was a man of considerable literary attainments and very extensive reading. He appears to have at one time entertained the idea of publish- ing a History of the Aboriginal tribes of the Northwest, as well as a History of the Northwest Company. In order to procure the necessary materials for that work, he sent printed circulars to many of the vdntering partners and clerks of the Northwest Company, requesting them to collect, and send to him in the form of letters or journals, such information as they could obtain relating to the country in which they were respectively stationed; the natives, their origin, religion, morals and cus- toms ; their most eminent chiefs, their government ; the origin of their trade with this white, &c. He received in response several reports, " accounts," and journals from the Northwest, — some of which are published in this collection (Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord-Ouest) — ^but he does not appear to have carried out his original plan, but seems to have been content with collecting a vast number of most interesting extracts from the books of different travellers and writers, and arranging them so as to prove and establish a perfect analogy of race be- tween the Aborigines of the Northwest and other nations, ancient and modem, throughout the world, by the similarity of their ideas, customs and modes of living." 2078—1 i CANADIAJSr ARCHIVES The material so gathered by Koderick McKenzie, or most of it, came eventually into the hands of Senator Masson, and a selection of it was published, with an introduction and notes, in his Bourgeois de la Gompagnie du Nord-Ouest. After tlie death of Senator Masson these valuable documents were sold at auction, many being acquired by the Dominion Archives, others by the Library of McGill University. Among those in the McGill Library is a draft outline of Koderick McKenzie's pro- jected work, which apparently was to have been in two volumes. It is entitled : ' Some Account of the Northwest Company. Containing Analogy of E'ations Ancient and Modern. By Roderick' Mackenzie, Esq., a Director. Member of the Legis- lative Council of Lower Canada. Lieut. -Col. of Militia. Member of the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec. Member of the American Antiquarian Society; and Fellow of the Eoyal Society of ISTorthern Antiquities at Copenhagen.* Whether Roderick McKenzie was appalled at the magnitude of the task he had undertaken, or discouraged by its cost, there is no means of knowing ; at any rate his ambitious work never saw the light, in spite of its elaborate title-page. Among the journals that McKenzie had obtained for his. work were the narratives of* a series of expeditions overland from the Assiniboine to the Mandan villages on the Missouri. These journals, by Erangois Antoine Larocque, and Charles Mackenzie, clerks in the employ of the Northwest Company,, covered the years 1804, 1805 and 1806, and are interesting, not only because of the light they throw upon the history of the fur trade, but also on account of the particulars they furnish as to the life and customs of one of the most remarkable of western tribes, the Mandahs. Larocque's ' Missouri Journal, 1804-05,' and the first part of Charles Mackenzie's ' Missis- souri Indians,' cover the same joiirney. The expedition was in charge of Larocque, and Mackenzie accompanied him as an assistant. In the second expedition, of a much more ambitious nature than the first, Larocque was again in charge, with Mackenzie as assistant. Of this journey, or a portion of it, an account is given in Mackenzie's ' Second Expedition, 1805,'' but until quite recently' Larocque's own narrative has not been available. JOTJENAL OF LAEOCQUE 3 It may have formed part of the material collected by Eoderick McKenzie, but if so was not acquired by Masson, and in fact does not seem to have been known to him. References are made in Mackenzie's narrative of his ' Third Expedition, 1805/ to Larocque's journal, but for a long time no trace could be found of the document itself. In fact the original journal is still missing, but what purports to be an exact copy is now in the Library of Laval Unive]:3ity,' Montreal, with a number of other manuscripts bequeathed to that institution by the late Judge Bkby of Montreal. This ' Journal of a Voyage to the Rocky Mountains from my leaving the Assinibois River on the 2nd Jane, 1805,' as it is entitled, is now printed for the first time, being, so far as can be ascertained at present, a verbatim tran- script of the original. Mackenzie accompanied Larocque only as far as the Man- dan and Minnetaree villages on the Missouri. Up to that point each journal forms an admirable commentary upon the other, as in the case of the previous expedition. Mackenzie also sup- plements Larocque in regard to the preparations for the latter's journey from the Missouri villages to the country of the Rocky Mountain Indians, or Crows, and the attempts of some of the Minnetarees to block the enterprise. From the time of Larocque's final departure, however, until his return in October^ nothing has hitherto been known of his movements beyond Mackenzie's meagre reference, in his ' Third Expedition.' ' On the 18th ISTovember,' he says (he was a month out, Larocque's journal proving that he returned on the 18th October), ' to our great joy our worthy friend Mr. Larocque and his party made their appearance from their visit to the Rocky Mountain. It is not necessary that I should give the particulars of his jour- ney, as Mr. Larocque himself has kept an account of it, I shall merely observe that he was disappointed in his expedition, suffered great hardships and took no less th^n thirty-six days on his return to our establishment.' It was thirty-four days, to be strictly accurate. Before going further it may be worth while to quote an interesting passage from Daniel Williams Harmon's ' Journal of Voyages and Travels in the Interior of North America.' Under date of April, 10th, 1806, he writes: 2078— li 4 CATTADIAN ARCHIVES ' While at Montagne a la Basse, Mr. Ohaboillez induced me to consent to undertake a long and arduous tour of discovery. I am to leave that place, about the begiiming of June, accom- panied by six or seven Canadians, and by two or three Indians. The first place at which we shall stop will be the Mandan Vil- lage, on the Missouri Eiver. Thence, we shall steer our course towards the Eocky Mountain, accpmpanied by a number of the Mandan Indians, who proceed in that direction every spring, to meet and trade with another tribe of Indians, who reside, on the other side-of the Eocky Mountain. It is expected that we shall return from our excursion in the month of November next.' To this statement Harmon added the following, apparently when preparing his narrative for publication : ' This journey I never undertook; for soon after the plan of it was settled, my health became so much impaired, that I was under the neces-. sity of proceeding to Headquarters, to procure medical assist- ance. A Mr. La Eocque attempted to make this tour, but went no farther than the Mandan Village.' This last statement reveals remarkable ignorance of the extent of Larocque's jour- ney ; all the more strange when it is remembered that Harmon and Larocque were members of the same fur company, and that Harmon was upon terms of intimacy with Charles J. B. Chaboillez, the Bourgeois or partner in charge of the Upper Eed Eiver, or Assiniboine, Department, who had sent Larocque upon his journey, and to whom he reported upon his return. Possibly, from motives of trade policy or for some other reason, the particulars of Larocque's journey may have been so care- fully suppressed at the time, that even Harmon was ignorant as to its extent. It will be clear, also, after reading Larocque's narrative, that Harmon was inaccurate as to the movements of the Indians, upon whom he relied to accompany him to the ' Eocky Mountain.' The special interest of Larocque's journal lies in the fact that it describes the first visit of white men to the country of the Crow Indians, with the exception of La Verendrye's expe- dition of 1Y42-43, and contains the earliest authoritative account of that ttibe. The narrative is remarkably clear and full, bespeaking an exceptionally intelligent and wide-awake JOUENAl OF LAEOCQUB 5;. traveller; and, despite tie comparatively limited field it covers, deserves to rank with such classics of the fur trade as the jour- nals of Alexander Henry, the Elder, and his nephew of the same name, Daniel Williams Harmon, ' John McDonald of Garth, Alexander Koss, Gabriel Franchere, Charles Mackenzie and Ross Cox. Larocque's journal is in fact more readable than many more ambitious narratives of the fur trade. It contains herp and there vivid- touches that carry the reader back ijnto the heart of that vanished period in western historj^lwheni men of fearless, and often heroic, mould blazed new trails through a vast wilderness, taking most of the time gamblers' chances of winning through, descending unknown rivers in their frail canoes, dashing overland in midwinter from one remote trading post to another, accepting even chances of death by starvation or exposure as part of the day's work, penetrating single-handed into the territory of hostile tribes. These rough fur-traders were no saints, but nevertheless they were for the most part men of whom any country might be proud. Their faults as, well as their virtues were those of a virile race. They were the true pioneers in that land of marvellous possibilities to which all eyes are now turned, and it is not too much to say that they were largely instrumental in winning the western half of the continent to civilization. While Larocque's narrative is chiefly notable for its descrip- tions of the Crows and their country, it also throws new light upon the characteristics of the Mandans and Minnetarees, and offers a valuable commentary upon the narra,tive of Lewis and Clark as regards those tribes of the Pacific slope, the Flatheads and Snakes. Like Alexander Henry, the Younger, and other chroniclers of the fur-trade period, Larocque is entirely frank as to the seamy side of native life. As Dr. Coues said of Henry's Indians, these ' are the genuine aboriginal articles, not the mock heroes of Leatherstocking romance.' For this very reason the narrative is all the more valuable as a contribution to North American ethnology. Of the writer of this journal, Frangois Antoine Larocque, not much is known. .According to Masson, he was a brother of Joseph Larocque, who ' occupied for many years a very promi- nent position in the Northwest and Hudson Bay Companies." 6 CANADIAN AEC HIVES ' Mr. F. A. Larocque,' continues Masson, ' was a man of good abilities, of great courage and energy. He was well read, studious and equallj^ proficient in the use of the French and English languages, but he decidedly preferred the latter. The life of an Indian trader had not for him the attractions it had for his brother ; he soon left the Northwest, came to Montreal and entered business, in which he was most unfortunate. He passed the last years of his life in close retirement and arduous study, and died, much advanced in years, in the Grey nunnery of St. Hyacinthe. Mr. Larocque married a Miss Cote, the daughter of an independent ]!^orthwest trader, and the sister of Mr. Jules Maurice Quesnel. He left only one son, Mr. Alfred Larocque, the father of Mr. le Chevalier Larocque, ex- papal zouave; of Mr. Armand Larocque and of Mrs. Alderic Ouimet, the wife of the [former] Speaker of the House of Commons.' Dr. Elliott Coues has a biographical note on Larocque, taken for the most part from Masson, in his ' Henry- Thompson Journals ' (I. 361) ; and Joseph Tasse has a few words to say of him in his ' Oanadiens de I'Ouest ' (IL 324-5). Larocque is frequently mentioned in the journals of Lewis and Clark, who met him at the Mandan villages on the Missouri; and is also referred to by Alexander Henry, the Younger, Charles Mackenzie, and Daniel Williams Harmon. Larocque's own narrative, here published, supplies some meagre details not hitherto available as to his life in the west previous to his first expedition ■ to the Missouri with Charles Mackenzie, in the 'autumn of 1804. From these fragmentary notes, which will be found at the end of his journal, it appears that he left Mon- treal, or Lachine, on the 26th April, 1801, in the service of the X Y Company, and arrived at Grand Portage the latter end of June. From there he was sent to Fort Charlotte, on Pigeon Eiver, and later in the year to English river, where he spent the winter. In the spring he journeyed farther west, to Fort des Prairies, on the Saskatchewan, and around to Eed river. In 1802 he was still in the service of the X T Company, but does not say where he was stationed. For the two following years he gives no particulars whatever, but we know that he was stationed at Fort Assiniboine in the autumn of 1804, and, as already stated, left with Charles Mackenzie. J. B. Lafrance, JOUKH-AL OF LAEOCQUE 7 and four voyageurs, on a trip to the Mandans. His name is mentioned, as a commis, or clerk, in the department of Eaut de la Riviere Rouge, in the ' Lists des bourgeois, commis, en- gages, et voyageurs de la Oompagnie du Nord-Ouest, apres la fusion de 1804,' at the end of v. I of Masson's Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord-Ouest. The accompanying map will be of assistance in following Larocque step by step, from his departure from Fort a la Bosse, on the Assiniboihe, on June 2nd, 1805, to his return to the same place on October 18th of the same year. The following bibliographical notes will also be of service to those who may wish to dig deeper into the rich mines of ethnology, history and crude human nature to be found in the literature of the western fur trade. These notes serve the more immediate purpose of a commentary upon Larocque's narra- tive: Larocque' s personal history: L. E. Slasson. ' Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord- Ouest,' I, 81 et seq, 299. Joseph Tasse. ' Les Oanadiens de I'Ouest,' II, 324-5. Elliott Ooues. ' Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry and David Thompson,' I, 301. Daniel Williams Harmon, ' Journal of Voyages and Tra- vels in the Interior of North America,' Oct. 4, 1804. North West Company: L. E. Masson. ' Bourgeois de la Oompagnie du Nord-Ouest.' George Bryce. ' Kemarkable History of the Hudson's Bay Company, including that of the French Traders of Northwestern Canada and of the Northwest, X Y and Astor Fur Companies.' ' Origin and Progress of the North West Company of Can- ada,' London, 1811. ' History of the Fur-Trade,' in Alexander Mackenzie's ' Voyages from Montreal to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans.' ' Eeport on Canadian Archives, 1888, Note E, Northwest Trade. O CAWADIAlir AECHIVES Eeport on Canadian Archives, 1890, Note G, JSTorthwest' ern Explorations. Northwest manuscripts, in Canadian Archives. Masson papers, in McGill University Library. Alexander Henry. ' Travels and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Territories, 1760-1Y76.' Ed. by James Bain. Elliott Cones. ' Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry and David Thompson.' Daniel Williams Harmon. ' Journal of Voyages and Tra- vels in the Interior of North America.' Alexander Eoss. ' Eur-Hunters of the Far West.' Alexander Eoss. ' Eed Eiver Settlement,' London, 1856. Eoss Cox. ' Adventures on the Columbia.' Gabriel Franchere. ' Narrative of a Voyage to the North- west Coast of America.' Edouard Umfreville. ' The Present State of Hudson Bay.' H. H. Bancroft. ' History of the Northwest Coast.' Joseph Tasse. ' Les Canadiens de I'Ouest.' 0/. Dugas. L'ouest Canadien. Alexander Begg. ' History of the Northwest.' The Mandans and other Tribes of the Upper Missouri: Journal of La Verendrye, 1738-39. ' Eeport on Canadian Archives, 1889,' Note A. Journal of La Verendrye, 1742-43. Canadian Archives MSS. Maximilian, Prince of Wied. ' ' Travels in the Interior of North America, 1832-34.' Lewis and Clark. ' Expedition to the Sources of the Mis- souri,' &c., 1804-5-6. George Catlin. ' Letters and Notes on the Manners, Cus- toms and Condition of the North American Indians.' George Catlin. ' 0-Kee-Pa and Other Customs of the Man- dans.' Charles Mackenzie. ' The Mississouri Indians.' In Masson, I. E. A. Larocque. 'The Missouri Journal, 1804-5.'- In Masson, I. JOUENAL 01" LAEOCQtTB V David Thompson. Mandan tour. In his MSS. Journals, Book 9, vol. 5, Crown Lands Department, Toronto. See also Dr. Coues' note, in Henry-Thompson Journals, I,' 301. Alexander Henry. The Mandan Tour, 1806. 'Henry- Thompson Journals,' chap. IX. H. E. Schoolcraft. ' Information respecting the History, Condition and Prospects of the Indian Tribes of the United States,' &c., pt. Ill, pp. 247 et seq. Lewis H. Morgan. ' Systems of Consanguinity and AfSnity of the Human Family,' 181 et seq. Lewis H. Morgan. ' Houses and House Life of the Ameri- can Aborigines.' Lewis H. Morgan. ' Ancient Society.' J. O. Dorsey. ' Study of Siouan Cults.' J. O. Dorsey. ' Siouan Ethnology.' The Grow Indians: Morgan. ' Ancient Society.' Morgan. ' Systems of Consanguinity,' &c. J. P. Beckwourth. ' Life and Adventures.' P. V. Hayden. ' Contributions to the Ethnography and Philology of the Indian Tribes of the Missouri Valley.' Maximilian. ' Travels in the Interior of ISTorth America.' Thomas Say. Vocabulary of the TTparoka or Crow. In E. James' ' Account of an Expedition,' &o. E. G. Latham. ' Miscellaneous Contributions to the Eth- nography of North America.' M. I. Carrington. ' Ab-Sa-Ea-Ka.' Elliott Coues. ' Henry-Thompson Journals.' Catlin. ' North American Indians.' The Flathead Indians: Lewis and Clark Expedition. Elliott Coues. ' Henry-Thompson Journals.' Gabriel Franchere. ' Narrative of a Voyage,' &c. Paul Kane. ' Wanderings of an Artist among the Indians of North America.' Patrick Gass's Journal. 10 CAIfADIAN ABCHIVES The Snake or Shoshone Indians: Lewis and Clark Expedition. Coues. ' Henry-Thompson Journals.' Maximilian. ' Travels in the Interior of Forth America.' A general reference may be made, in connection with all these tribes, their manners, customs, language, habitat, &c., to that unrivalled storehouse of information, the Annual Reports of the Bureau of Ethnology of the United States. It may be noted here that all references in foot-notes to Maximilian are to the edition included in R. G. Thwaites' ' Early Western Travels ' ; to Lewis & Clark, the J. K. Hosmer edition ; to Gabriel Franchere's Narrative, J. V. Huntington's translation, 1854, except where otherwise specified; and to Har- mon, the 1903 reprint. References to Lewis & Clark in the Bibliographical notes are understood to include also the Coues' and Thwaites' editions. The exhaustive notes added to these editions increase enormously the value of the work, from the historical, ethnographical, geographical and scientific points of view'. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE EOOKY MOUN- TAINS FEOM MY LEAVING THE ASSINIBOIS' RIVER ON THE 2nd JUNE, 1805. At my arrival at Riviere Fort de la Bosse^ I prepared for going on a voyage of discovery to the Rocky Mountains and set of on the 2nd June with two men having each of us two horses, one of which was laden with goods to facilitate an intercourse with the Indians we might happen to see on our road. Mr. Charles McKenzie* and Mr. Lassana* set out with me to go & pass the summer at the Missouri, and haying to parsue the same road we Kept Company as far as the B.B." village. Mr. McKenzie with the other men set of about at two in the afternoon, but I having [been] so very busy that I had not as yet been able to write my letters to my friends remained and wrote letters and settled some little business of my own. After 1. One of the innumerable variants of the name Assiniboine. This main branch of the Ked River has also borne various other names, the first of which was Eivier© St. Charles, given by La Verendrye, the first white man to stand upon its banks. In the manuscript map of David Thompson, astronomer of the Northwest Company, it is called Stone Indian River. See footnote, p. ib, Coues' 'Henry-Thompson Journals.' 2. Larocque elsewhere calls this trading post Mount a la Bosse. 3. McKenzie joined the Northwest Company in 1803 as an apprentice clerk, made an expedition to the Mandan villages on the Missouri in 1804, in which he was accompanied by Larocque, and, as above stated, again travelled with Larocque in 1805 as far as the Missouri. He made a third journey to the Mandans in the fall of the same year, and a fourth in 1806. His narr.atives of the four journeys are printed in Masson, V.I. See Masson's biographical note, p. 317, and Cones', p. 345. 4. No such name in Roderick McKenzie's list of 'Proprietors, clerks, interpreters, &c., of the Northwest Company, 1799,' nor in the 'Liste des bourgeois, commis, engages, et voyagecrs de la Compagnie du Nord-Ouest, aprfes la fusion de 1804,' Masson, I, 395. May be intended for J. B. Lafrance, mentioned by Charles McKenzie as of the party. 5. Big Bellies, called by the French, Gros Ventres. The name has been applied at different times and by different writers to two quite distinct tribes: the Atsina (called Fall Indians by tTmfreville, and Rapid Indianis, by Alexander Henry), and the Minnetarees or Hidatsas. The former are of Algonquian, the latter of Siouan, stock. 11 12 CANADIAN ARCHIVES sunset we supped & bidding farewell to Mr. Ohabelly' & Henry' & to all the people, departed, every one beings affected at our departure thinking it more than'^probable that I should not return with my men, and I confess I left the fort with a heavy heart but riding at a good rate I soon got chearful again, and thought of nothing but the [means] of ensuring success to my undertaking. At 10 at flight I arrived at the Eiver aux Prunes' where I found the people encamped asleep. Monday 3rd. I sat of early in the morning and stopped at 12 to refresh our horses, and encamped at night at River la Sorie,* where we had not been two hours encamped when three, and after many other Assiniboins rushed in upon us, a few endeavouring to take our horses, but seeing our guns and run- ning to them we made them depart. They ran afterwards to our fire and seeing us well armed and by our looks that w!e would well defend ourselves and our property they remained quiet. There were 40 tents of them not 10 acres from us with- out that we had perceived them. I gave 1 fm. tobacco' to their Chief to make his young men smoke & engage them to remain peaceable. Some of them offered to accompany us to the Mis- souri, but upon being told that we would like it well they spoke no more of it. 1. Charles Jean-Baptiste Chaboillez, 'Bourgeois^ or partner of the Northwest Company, at this time in charge of the Assiniboine department. See Masson, I, 81, and footnote; also Coues, p. 60, note. 2. Alexander Henry, known as the Younger, to distinguish him from his uncle, Alexander Henry, the Elder, whose 'Travels and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Territories' was first published in 1809 (new ed. by Dr. James Bain, 1901.) The voluminous manuscript journals of Henry the Younger were edited by Dr. Elliott Coues, in conjunction with those of David Thompson, under the title, 'New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest,' New York, 1897. Chap. IX contains Henry's ac- count of the Mandan Tour, 1806. 3. Pipestone river, or creek, a branch of the Souris river coming in from the west. I cannot find the name given by Larocque in this locality on any of the maps. i. Elsewhere Larocque spells it Eiver la Sourie. The Souris appears as Mouse river on some of the older maps. 5. The Brazil tobacco, so-called> used in trade by the North West and Hudson's Bay Companies, , was prepared in the form of a rope, and cut off as required. Larocque cut off 1 fathom as a present to placate the Assiniboines. See Dr. Bain's note, p. 321, Henry's 'Travels and Adven- tures.' The fathom, according to Masson, was the French measure then in use in the Northwest, une brasse. JOUEN^AL OF LAEOCQUE 13 Thinking it Lower not prudent to pass the night so close to them we saddled our horses and departed although they did all in their power of engaging us to sleep at those tents. One of them conducted us to a good fording place pf Eiver la Sourie which we crossed striking in the plain. We walked all night to come out of their reach for they are worst cunning horse thiveve that ever I said or heard of. A little before day light we stopped and took a nap. Tuesday 4th. We proceeded on our journey early in the morning having very fine weather all day, and at night en- camped on the banks of the Eiver la Sourie at a place called Green Eiver^ for its havin no wood on its side for about 30 miles. We saw no other animals but four cabois' of which we killed two. Wednesday 5th. We followed the Green Eiver till eleven O'clock when we arrived at the woods, where being an appear- ance of rainy weather we encamped. There was no Buffalo in seight. At 12 it began to rain and continued hard and unin- terruptedly until next morning. Here we saw plenty of wild fowls, Ducks, Bustards, Geese, Swans, &c., and killed a number of them. Thursday 6th. There being an appearance of fine weather, we sat off and walked about three miles, when the weather being cloudy we stopped to encamp, but before we could make a hut for our goods the rain began again, and fell amasingly hard so that in a few hours eve'ry hollows or valley in the plains were full of water, and every brook or creek was swollen to rivers. There were plenty of Buffaloes and the rain ceasing in the even- ing we killed a very fat young bull' and a fat Elk deer. At night the rain began again and continued without intermission until morning. Eriday Yth. The weather continued cloudy, but the sun appearing now and then we hoped for fair weather and past of 1. Cut Bank creek, rising close to the International Boundary, and joining the Souris in the southern part of Bottineau county, N.D. Alexander Henry calls it Bivifere Pl^. 2. Elsewhere Larooque spells it caribo. The animal referred to is the familiar American antelope, Antilocapra americana. 3. ' In the early part of the season,' says Alexander Boss in his ' Bed River Settlement,' 'the bulls are fat and the oows lean; but in the au- tumn the case is the reTerse,*the bulls are lean and the cows fat.' 14 CANADIAN- AECHIVES but as yesterday it began to rain at 12, at two we found some wood on some sandy bills in the plains where we stopped to cook our goods, being completely trenched [drenched]. There being no water on the sand hills, we raised a Bark of Elm tree and pulling one end in a Kettle, the other end a little higher, all the water that fell on the Bark ran into the kettle and we had pre- sently a sufficient quantity; we also made a tent with bark and passed the night comfortably enough. Saturday 8th. We sat of to go to a hill called Grosse Butte^ to dry our things, and water our horses, but their being none here, arrived there two hours and a half where we stopped for the remainder of the day & night. The Grosse Bute is a high hill which is seen at 20 miles off on either side. At its foot on the north side is a Lake of about 8 miles in circumfer- ence in which there are middle sized pikes. Between the Lake and the hill there is some wood chiefly Elm ; all around are many lakes, which by the late rain communicated with each other. From the top of the hill the turtle mountain^ was seen being due I^orth, Eiver la Sourie likewise was of in N.N.E. and south and south west, being seen on all sides of the hill excepted west. Sunday 9th. We sat of early in the morning, in a course S.S.W. and at 1 o'clock in the afternoon we arrived on the Bank of the Kiver la Sourie.' The water being amazing high we made a raft to cross our things over the Eiver and the horses swam over. We saddled immediately atid encamped in a Coule* about three miles from the Eiver. Monday 10th. Leaving this we went and slept in the Man- dan plain,^ saw plenty of buffaloes all along, but did not dare 1. The position of this hill is sufSoiently indicated in the next para- graph. Dr. Coues identifies Grosse Butte with present White Eock hill. North Dakota. 2. Turtle Mountain is a well-known landmark, lying across the par- allel of 49°, partly in Canadian and partly in United States territory. It is constantly referred to in the journals of fur-traders and explorers,' the old Indian thoroughfare between the Assiniboine and the Missouri passing around it to the westward. 3. He crosses the Souris about its most southerly point, where it is nearest to the Missouri. 4. A deep gully. This is probably one of the earliest instances of the use of the term. 5. The CoteaU du Missouri, or tableland separating the waters of the Missouri from tbose of the Assiniboine. JOUBNAL OP LAEOCQUE 15 to fire at them, being on the enemies lands is Sioux/ It rained a little in the night, Tuesday 11th. At 8 in the morning I saw the hanks of the Missoury/ at 12 arrived at the Eiver Bourbeuse/ when we unsad[dl]ed our horses where we unloaded our horses and crossed the property on our shoulders there being not more than 2 feet of water, but we sunk up to our middle in mud, the horses bemired themselves in crossing and it was with difficulty we got them over the bank beings bogs as also the bed of the river. We intended to get the villages today but being over- taken by a Shower of rain we encamped in a coule at the Ser- pent lodge,* being a winter village of Ae B. Belly's at the Elbow of the River, where I passed part of last winter. Being unwil- ling to untie my things before the Indians of the village as I was necessarily be put to. some expence I took here a small equipment of different article for present expense, as the sight of my goods would perhaps cause the B. B. to refuse our pas- sage to the Eocky Mountains. Wednesday 12th. ' I arrived at 9 o'clock in the morning on the banks of the Missury, fired a few shots to inform the in- dians of our being there and in a few hours many came over with Canoes to cross us and our things. Lafrance proceeded to the Mandans' but I and my men with Mr. McKenzie crossed here at the B. Belly's & entered intodift lodges, gave my men 1. All this country w€st of Red River and 'betweeii the boundary and the Missouri was Sioux territory. The traveller, white or red, who came this way, stepped warily. It was as well not to meet these fierce and crafty warriors of the plains. When Alexander Henry ascended Red River in 1800 he had the greatest difficulty in preventing his men from turning back, when they reached the borders of the Sioux country. 2. Charles McKenzie, and others, spell it Mississouri; Alexander Henry, Missburie. Other variants are found in narratives and journals of the period. 3. Miry Creek of Lewis & Clark, now Snake Creek, flows S.W. into the Missouri, in McLean County. i. Loge de Serpent, ^n Henry's narrative, and still known as the Snakes Den. A bold bluff at the mouth of Snake Creek. 5. No American tribe, with the possible exception of the Iroquois, has excited more interest and curiosity than the Mandans. Certain peculiarities in their language, habits, and physical appearance have given rise to much speculation as to their origin. The first white man to visit the Mandans was Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, Sieur de La Vereudrye, the narrative of whose journey will be found in the Archives Report, 1889, pp. 2-29. John McDonnell records what appears to be the earliest visit of British traders to the Mandans. (Masson, I, 273.) 16 dAlSADIAN AEC HIVES each a small equipment of Knives Tobacco and ammunition to give the landlords.^ Thursday 13th. Three Assiniboins arrived in the evening. 4 Canadians from the Illinois, who are hunting Beaver in these parts, came to see me. I gave each of them 6 inches of [Brazil] Tobacco which pleased them very much as they had for several months not smoked any but Indian Tobacco. Fryday 14th. The Indians here are exceedingly trouble- some to sell their horses to us, the prise that we usually pay them for a horse can purchas two from the Eocky Mountain Indians who are expected dayly, & they would wish us to have more goods when those Indians arrive, so as to have the whole trade themselves. I told them that the purpose of our coming was not to purchase horses either from them or the Rocky Mountains, that we came for Skins and Kobes and that for that purpose one of us was to pass the summer with them and one at the Mandans; that I and two men were sent by the white people's Ohief^ to smoke a pipe of peace & amity with the Rocky Mountain Indians and to accompany them to their lands to examine them and see if there were Beavers as is reported & to engage them to hunt it, that we would not purchase a horse from none, therefore that their best plan would be to dress Buffalo Robes, so as to have ammunition to trade with the Rocky Mountain Indians. They pretend to be in fear of the surrounding nations, that is Assineboines,' Sioux,* Oheyeniies' & Ricaras,* so as to have an 1. The traders were usually guests of some leading member of tie tribe, but remuneration in the form of gifts was always expected and given. 2. In this case, the bourgeois Chaboillez. For the native attitude to- ward the 'white people's Chief see Masson, I, 383-4. 3. See the manuscript journals and letters of Pierre de La Vfoendrye and his sons, in the Dominion Archives. See footnote, pp. 269-70, 'Con- tributions to the Historical Society of Montana, I (1876, 2nd ed.); Maxi- milian, I, 887 et seq. The Assinibiines were of Siouan stock. i. The earliest accounts of the Naudowessi or Sioux are contained in the Jesuit Eelations. Other records of the same period are the Letters of Daniel Greyselon Du Lhut and Father Guignas (Dominion Archives 'Posts in the Western Sea,' Vol. 16) ; and the Voyages of Pierre Esprit Eadisson (Prince Society, 1885) ; and Pike's 'Expeditions to Headwaters of the Mississippi' (Coues' ed.), 1, 341 et seq. 5. Charles Mackenzie calls them Shawyens or Chawyens. and describes a visit to their country in his Fourth Expedition (Masson, I. 373 et seq.) An earlier account of the same tribe is found in La V^rendrye's 1742:44 Journal already oited. They belong to the Algonquin family. 6. Originally Pawnees, who settled on the Missouri below the Cheyennes, and later moved down to the neighbourhood of the Mandans. JOURNAL OF LAEOCQUB 17 excuse for not trading their guns with the Eocky Mountain Indians, and likewise to prevent us. Some of those Eocky Mountain Indians have been here already and are gone back, but more are expected, with whom I intend to go. Saturday 15th. I was sent for by one of the Chiefs who asked me what I intended to do with the pipe stem I had brought, upon my telling him that it was for the Eocky Moun- tain Indians he made a long harangue to dissuade me from going there, saying that I would be obliged to winter there on account of the length of the way, that the Cayennes and Eicaras were enemies and constantly on the Eoad, and that it was prob- able we should be killed by them. He gave the worst character possible to the Eocky Mountain Indians, saying they were thieves and liar, of which he gave an example that is of a Cana- dian of the name of Menard,^ who had lived here about 40 years and a few years ago sett of to go to the Eocky Mountains to trade horses and Beavers, these Indians did all in the.ir power to prevent him, but seeing him absolutely bent upon going they let him go, he arrived at the Eocky Mountain In- dians tents, where he was well treated, & got 9 horses and 2 female slaves, besides a quantity of Beaver, he left the lodge very well pleased, but were followed by some young men who in the night stole 7 horses, a few nights after his 2 Slaves de- serted with the other horses and other young men coming took from him everything he had even to his knife, he came crying to the B. B. Village almost dead having but his robe to make shoes (with flint stone) which he tied about his feet with cords, which so pained the B. B. that they killed some of the Eoche Moun- tain^ for revenge & &. he told me many other stories, to all which I answered that my Chief had sent me to go, and that I would or die. There is seven nights that 5 young men are gone to meet the Eocky Mountain Indians, they are expected dayly & the Eocky Mountain with them. 1. Probably the same Menard who, according to Alexander Henry, 'was pillaged and- murdered by three Assiniboines in 1803, on his way to the MisBourie.' 2. i.e., Bocky Mountain Indians. 2078—2 18 CAN-ADIAir AECHIVES Sunday 16th. This Evening the Indian women danced the scalp of a Black feet' Indian which they killed the- last spring. The Canadians from below said they had killed some white men at the same time, that they had seen cloths such as Corduroy Jackets and trousers, collars shirts, part of Linnen Tents, Casi-, mer^ waist coats ,and many other things belonging to the whites. The Borgne' the Great Chief of this pillage told me that war party had fired upon and killed people who were going down a very large Eiver, in skin canoes,* but that they could not tell whether they were Crees' or Sauteux* or whites. I spoke to old Cerina Grape' the father of the Chief of that party, and to the Chief himself, they prove by the fire, Earth and Heaven that they were not whites. They made a plan of the Country through which they passed, and in my opinion it is some where [about] the Sas Eatehewini' or its branches. They showed me part of what they plundered but I saw nothing that could prove them to have killed Whites except the quantity of gun powder he had, for it was no less than half a Keg and at lease 200 balls. Their plunder was parted among all the wariors and their relations. Among the articles that the Cerina Grappe showed me there was a Coat made of the skin of a young horse wrought with 1. The earliest account of the Blackfeet is contained in the Journal of Anthony Hendry (Trans., Royal Society of Canada, 1907.) See also Matthew Cooking's Journal. (Trans. Royal Society of Canada, 1908.) 2. i.e.. Cashmere. 3. This very remarkable Indian figures prominently in all contem- porary Missouri narratives. See Charles Mackenzie's Mississouri Indians (Masson, I); Henry-Thompson Journals, pp. 259, 322, 346, etc.; Lewis & Clark, ch. vi and xviii. i. The 'bull-boat' of the Missouri and Saskatchewan, of which an ex- cellent representation is given in one of Bodmer's plates (Maximilian's Travels.) 5. The Crees, of Algonquian stock, covered in Larocque's day an im- mense territory. Under the name of Christineaux, or its innumerable variants: Cristinapx, Kilistinaux, Kinistinces, Knistineaux, and so forth, this numerous tribe is constantly referred to in the Jesuit Relations and the narratives of fur-traders, explorers and travellers, down to the close of the period of French rule in Canada, and later. They were found anywhere around Lake Superior, the Red River country. Lake Winnipeg, sometimes as far west as the upper Missouri and the South Saskatchewan, and north-west even to the Peace River and the Mac- kenzie. 6. Chippewas, sometimes known as Ojibways. Of Algonquian stock. 7. Not elsewhere referred to under this name. 8. Saskatchewan. In La V^rendrye's day it went under a different name, variously spelled, Poskoiac, Pasquayah, Basquda, etc. JOUKliTAL or LAROCQUE 19 porcupine quills and human hair, 2 skunk skins guarnished with red stroud and blue beads, which those Indians generally wear round their ancles, one musket by Ketland one gun by Barnett,' and lastly one scalp which was evidently that of an Indian. But I realy believe they have Killed some white people about fort des prairies" for they brought more, goods than ever I saw in the possession of Indians at one time. Monday lYth. I went down to the Mondan Village on horse back and purchased a saddle there for which I paid 30 lbs ammunition desired Lafrance to get some provision made for J^y voyage as there is no com where I live.' I returned home to my lodge. In the evening having settled some business with a man of the name of Jusseaux* who was indebted to the Com- pany. Tuesday 18th. The son of the White Wolf fell from his horse and bruised his leg terribly, the flesh was taken clean of the bone from the ancle, round the leg to the calf. The Indian doctor was sent for who began his cure by blowing and singing while the child suffered quietly. Thunder storm. Wednesday 19th. There being another sick person in my Lodge and there being rather too much fuss about medicines, conjuring & singing I went & lived in another lodge where I had placed one of my men before. Went to see the Borgne our Chief and being desirous that he should stand by me in case of need I made him a present of f lb. Tobacco, one knife and 50 Rounds of amunition at which he was well pleased — ^he is the greatest Chief in this place, but does not talk against our going to the Rocky Mountains as the other Chiefs do — Thunder and rain at night. Thursday 20th. I was again teased by some of the Chief to purchase horses and was told the Big Bellys had two hearts^ and that they not know whether they would allow me to go to 1. Well-known English makers of the period. 2. Several different trading posts on the Saskatchewan bore this name. The one mentioned by Larocque was on the South Saskat:chewan. . That is, on the Assiniboine. i. Mentioned by Masson as having resided in the Missouri uountry as an independent trader for over fifteen years, and as having served as guide and interpreter to Mr. David Thompson in his voyage of explorar tion of 1797. 5, Or as we would say, were of two minds. 2078— 2i 20 CANADIAN ARCHIVES the Eocky Mountains, and in the course of a long harangue they made use of all their art to induce me not to go representing the journey as dangerous to the last degree and that the Eocky Mountain would not come, for they were afraid of the Bicaras & Assiniboines to all which I could make no answer but by signs, as there was no one present that could speak to them properly, one of my men of the name of Souci^ spoke the Sioux language but there was no one there that understood that lan- guage. About [noon] two of the young B. B. that had been sent to meet the Eocky Mountains arrived, they left the Eocky Mountain Indians in the morning and they will be here in 3 or 4 days. Upon the receipt of those news, the Chief pretended to have received information that the Orils^ & Assiniboines were assembled to come and war upon them (which is false) and harangues were made to the people to keep their guns and am- munitions and not to trade them with the Eocky Mountain Indians, &c. All this I believe a scheme to prevent me from going, for as yet ihe^^ do not like to tell me so exactly, but are for ever saying that they have two hearts which means that they are undetermined in what manner to act. Fryday 21st. I went to see the Borgne enquired of him what he and the Big Bellys thought of our going to the Eocky Mountains and whether they have a mind to prevent us. He answered to my wish, that the Eocky ^tlountains were good people, that they had plenty of Beaver on their hands, and that his adopted son, one of the Ghiefs of the Eocky Mountains & the greater would take care of us, for that he would strongly recommend to him to put the white people in his heart and watch over them. I told him that the B. B. had no reason to be displeased for that one of us remains with them who has plenty of amunition, Knives, tobacco. Hatchets and other articles, where with to supply their wants, whenever they would be dis- posed to trade. He said it was true that none would molest us.' He is the only Chief that speaks so, but as he has the most 1. -Pierre Saucie's name is included under the department of Baut de la Biviire Bouge, in the Liste des bourgeois, etc., at the end of vol. I of Mpsson. 2. Another variant of the name Crees. 3. Charles Mackenzie's version of this speech is found in Masson I, 344. JOUBNAL OF LAEOCQUE 21 ■\ authority of any I hope by his means we will pass. A certain method to get the road clear would be to assemble the Chiefs, make them a present of Tobacco and amunition, make them smoke & speak to them what occasion I may have for them in future. I like not to do it only when I see that I caimot other- wise for assembling a Council and haranging without a present is no better than speaking to a heap of stones. Besides I am apprehensive that paying as it were for our first going to these nations will give a footing to the B. Bellys which they will en- deavoure to improve every time we should go there if a trading interest takes place. So we pass this time without making them any present at all, I believe it will be done away for ever. If the Borgne retains that authority he formerly had he alone will be able to clear the Road for us and he appears to be sincerely our friend. Saturday 22nd. In the beginning I went to an Indian's tent whose two sons had been in that party that defeated the White on the Saskatchion, he gave me a full account and more like truth than any other. He says there were four Linnen tents and four leather on the sides of the Eiver where there were Skin Canoes ; they fired upon the largest leather tent and Killed three men, two of whom were Indians, the other they be- lieve to be a White man but not certain. They brought one scalp & if it is that which they showed me, it is an Indian There was plenty of tents of all kinds besides goods. What they could not take with them, they broke and threw in the River. Sunday 23rd. Three men and one woman arrived from the Rocky Mountains about noon, the other are near hand and would have arrived today but for rain which fell in the evening. In the evening I went to see the Brother of the Borgne, where I found two Rocky Mountain Indians, one of whom was the Chief of whom the Borgne had spoken with me.' I smoked with them for some |;ime when the Borgne told them that I was going with them and spoke very much in our favor. They appeared to be very well pleased. 1. 'Le Borgne,' says Charles Mackenzie, 'sent for us in order to in- troduce Mr. La !Bocque to the Bocky Mountain Chief, whose name is Nakesinia, or Red Calf.' Masson, 1, 345. 22 .CANADIAN ARCHIVES Monday 24th. Lafrance, with the other white people from below who reside at the Mandans came to see the people which were arrived from the Eocky Mountains, who were prevented from coming by appearance of bad weather. It thundered the whole day but it did not rain. I gave a small knife to my Land lady. Tuesday 25th. About one in the afternoon theEock Moun- tain Indians arrived, they encamped at a little distance from the village with the wariors, to the number of 645, passed through the village on horseback with their shields & other war- like implements," they proceeded to the little village,' Souliers" and then to the Mandans and returned. There did not remain 20 person in the village, men women and children all went to the newly arrived camp carrying a quantity of Corn raw and cooked which they traded for Leggins, Eobes and dried meat. There are 20 lodges of the snake Indians* & about 40 men. The other bands are more numerous. This morning the Borgne sent for me, he showed me the Eocky Mountain Chief of the Ererokas,' and told him before me that I was going with him & to take good care of us & he 1. Mackenzie gives a more spirited account of the arrival of the Rocky Mountain Indians. 'They consisted,' he says, 'of more than three hundred tents, and presented the handsomest sight that one could imagine; all on horseback, children of small size were lashed to the sad- dle and those above the age of six could manage a horse. The women had wooden saddles, most of the men had none. There were a great many horses for the baggage and the whole, exceeding twO' thousand, covered a large spa<;e of ground, and had the appearance of an army. They halted on a rising ground behind the village, and, having formed a circle, the chief addressed them; they then descended full speed, rode through the village, exhibiting their dexterity in horsemanship in a thousand shapes. I was astonished to see their agility and ''.ddress, and I do believe they are the best riders in the world. They were dressed in leather and looked clean and neat; some wore beads and rings as orna- ments. Their arms were bows and arrows, lances and round stones enclosed in leather and slung to a shank in the form of a whip; they mad© use of shields, and they have a few guns.' 2. The Minnetaree village called Metaharta by Lewis & Clark, and Awatichay by Maximilian. It was on the south side of Knife river, and was the residence of Le Borgne. 3. The Amahami, called by the French traders Gens des Souliers or Souliers Noirs. ' 4. Shoshone Indians. They were known as the Snake Indians to Henry and other writers of the period. Their habitat was about the headwaters of the Missouri or its branches. 5. 'The Crows,' says Granville Stuart, ' are called Absar6fcis, or Upsaroka.' (Contr. Hist. Soc, Montana, I, 274,.) JOUEWAL OF LAEOCQUE 23 spoke very much in our favour telling me that the B. Bellys were undetermined whether they would allow us to go or not, but that we would go if we liked it for that he would clear the road before us if necessary. I gave to two of the Ererokas each 6 [feet] of tobacco and 20 JRounds of amunitions. Wednesday 26th. The Mandans, Souliers, little village people & the people of the Village, went on horse back and arived to perform the same ceremonys round the Kocky Moun- tain Camp, as the Eocky Mountains did yesterday here,^ they were about 500, but a great many Wariors are absent being gone to war. Thursday 27th. Assembled the Chiefs of the different Bands of the Eock Mountains and made them a present of 2 Latrge Axes 16 large Knives 2 Small Axes 12 Small do 8 Ivory Combs 2 lbs. Vermillion 10 Wampum Shells 8 do?. Kings 8 fire steels and Flint 4 papers co'd Glasses 4 cassetete' 4 Doz. Awls 6 Masses B. C. Beads" 1^ lb. Blue Beads 4 f. Tobacco 2 Doz. do 8 Cock feathers 1000 balls & powder Made them smoke in a stem* which I told them was that of the Chief of the White people who was desirous of making them his Children & Brethren, that he knew they were pitiful and had no arms to defend themselves from their enemies, but that they should cease to be pityful as soon as they would makel themselves brave hunters. That 1 and two men were going with them to see their lands and that we took with us some articles to supply their present want, that our Chief sent them those goods that lay before them, to make them listen to what we were now telling tiiem, that he expected they would treat all white people as their Brethern for that we were in peace and 1. Masson, I, 345. 2. 'B.C.' probably stands for 'Blue Canton.' John McDonnell speaks of '6 bunches blue beads/ and Larocque (in Masson) buys a dog for, among other things, '13 china beads.' 3. In his Missouri Journal (Masson, I, 309) Larocque has '1 casse-tete a calumet, the familiar combination of tomahawi and pipe. i. i.e., pipe. 24 aANADIAN ABCHIVES friendship with the Eed skined people and did not go about to get a scalp, that probably they would see White people on their lands from another quarter but that they were our brethern and of course we expected they would not hurt them, that a few years ago they pillaged and ill treated a white man who went to trade with them,' that we would see how they would treat us and if they have behaved well towards us and kill JBeavers* Otters & Bears they would have white people on the lands in a few year, who would winter with them and supply them with all their wants & &. I told them many other things which I thought was necessary and closed the Harangue by making them smoke the Medicin Pipe." They thanked [me] and make a present of 6 robes, one Tyger' skin, 4 shirts, 2 women Cotil- lons* 2 dressed Elk skins, 3 saddles and 13 pair leggins. I clothed the Chief of the Ererokas at the same time^ and gave him a flag and a Wanpoon Belt and told them that our Chief did not expect that we would pass many different nations and therefore had sent but one Chief Clothing, but that in the course of the summer we would fix upon a spot most convenient for them all where we would build & trade with them, if we saw that they wished to encourage the white people to go on their lands by being good hunters and that then all their Chiefs who Would behave well would get a Coat. The ceremony of adopting Children was going on at the same time," but I was so very bussy that I could not attend, but about the middle of the ceremony, and therefore can give but an imperfect account of it from my own observation, but as the two people were present I will give an account of it in another place. Fryday 28th. I preferred to go of in the evening to the lodge of the Erreroka Chief in order to be ready with them in 1. The unfortunate Menard, before mentioned. 2. Throughout all the tribes the medicine pipe was held in high ven- eration, and the smoking of this pipe formed an important feature of all treaties or meetings with other Indians or Whites. 3. The puma (Felis concolor), also known as the panther or mountain lion, or the wildcat (Lynx rufus fasciatus.) i. Petticoats. One cotillon was valued at 7 beaver skins. See Roderick McKenzie'e Reminiscences. (Masson, I, 14; also I, 87.) 5. The presentation of a Chief's Clothing formed an important part of a visit to or from a new tribe. What the clothing consisted of may be- gathered from James MoKenzie's Journal (Masson, II, 384.) JOURNAL OF LAEOCQUE 25 the morning but he and the other Chiefs were called to a fare- well Council in the Borgnes Lodge so that I did not Stir. Saturday 29th. Saddled our horses and left the B. Belly village, we remained about half an hour in the Rocky Moun- tain Camp where they threw down their tents and all sat of. We marched aloiig the Knife River' for about eight miles when we stopped and encamped. The Borgne and many other B. Belly's came and slept with us. Sunday 30th. We foUowe a south course for about 4 mile- and stoped to dine and resumed a S.S.W. course and encamped for night, Knife River in Sight when no hills intervemxed,. about 6 miles on our right, a thunder storm in the evening. July 1st, JiIo:tiday. We sat [out] -at 8 o'clock in the morn- ing and encamped at 12 having followed a South West course ; we crossed three small creeks running North and E". East into the Knife River. It began to rain as soon as the lodges were pitched and continued so all day. The Indians hunted and Killed a few Bulls. I gave the people of my lodge a few art- icles, as Beeds, Knives. Tuesday 2nd. We sat out at 9 o'clock followed a south Course and encamped at 2 after noon. It thundered very much the whole of the afternoon and at sun set there fell such a shower of hail as I never saw before, some of the hail stones being as large as hen eggs and the rest as a Yolk ; they fell with amazing violence and broke down several tents. The wind dur- ing the storm was West, it breesed to the North and continued during the whole night. Wednesday 3rd. We continued our journey for about 4r hours, through a very hilly country and encamped at the foot of a very high Hill on the top of which I ascended, but could see at no considerable distance, another range of hills surround- ing this on all sides. I lost my spy glass in coming down the- hill and could not find it again. Our course was south. Thursday 4th. We stopped after a south course for the- 1. Knife Ei-rer enters the Missouri from the south about long. 101° 20' W. The village from -which Larocque and his friends the Crows have just departed -was on the S. side of Knife River, about half a mile above its mouth. The party are therefore marching along the north bank of the river. 26 CANADIAN- AECHIVES night on the side of a small hill at a Creek' which empties in the Missouri above the Panis' village about 5 leagues distant from our last encampment having crossed another a little before emptying in the Missury about one mile below the Mandans. The Scouts reported that Buffaloes were at hand. Fryday 5th. We discovered a thief last night in the act of stealing a gun from under our loads thinking we were asleep. The Chief sent two young men to sleep behind the lodge and guard our property. After three hours and a half march in a southerly direction we espied Buffaloes, and stopped all. The Chief harangued and the young men set out to hunt after which we marched on for about a league and a half and en- camped. There was no Creek or Eiver here for water only a few ponds of stagnant water which by reason of so many dogs and horses bathing in them was not drinkeable being as thick as mud. Saturday 6th. A Big Belly found my spy glass and re- turned it to me, we set of at 8. At 11 the scouts reported that they had seen enemies. We all stopped, the men armed them- selves and mounting their fleetest horses went in pursuit, they returned in a few hours, as what the scouts had taken for ennemies were a party of their own people who were gone hunt- ing and not been seen. We proceeded and encamped at one on the side of a small River running West and emptying in the lasser Missouri' It blew a hurricane in the evening. Course south about four leagues. Sunday 7th. At ten O'Clock we rose the Camp and at 3 we saw Buffaloes, harangues were made to the Young Men to go and hunt while a party of these latter who are a guard of soldiers* paraded before the body of the people preventing any 1. Heart river, whiot empties into the Missouri a, little to the east of long. 101°. 2. Pawnees. For history and description of this tribe see Henry, I, 334; Lewis and Clark (Hosmer ed.), I, 35-36; Cones' 'Pike,' II, 532 et seq; Catlin, II, 27. 3. Lesser Missouri, or Little Missouri, as it is more generally known; joins Missouri long. 102° 15'. i. Most of the migratory prairie tribes subjected themselves to some form of discipline on the march as well as in their temporary camps, and appointed a species of police to keep order. See La Verendrye (Journal, Archives, 1889), and Henry the Elder (Bain's ed., 294) as to the Assini- boiues; Hendry's Journal (E.S.C., 1907) as to the Blackfeet; Maximilian describes similar soldiers or police among the Mandans. JOUENAL OP LAEOCQUE 27 one from setting off till all the huntsmen were gone ; after which we set off again and encamped at the foot of a hill, which we had in sight since the day before yesterday. Course S. West about 18 miles. Monday 8th. Before we rose the camp a general muster of all the guns in the Camp was taken an the number found to be 204 exclusive of ours. Our huntsmen had brought in a plenty of Buffaloes. We marched this day by a south Course about 7 miles. Tuesday 9th. From the Big Belly village to the place I lost my spy glass the country was very hilly, from that to this place it was much more upon a level though not entirely so. The plains produce plenty of fine grass. In the course of this days journey we passed between two big hills on the top of which as far as the eye could discern Buffalo were seen in amazing number, we camped on the side of a small Creek run- ning West into the lesser Missouri. The Indian hunted and killed many Buffaloes. Course South S. West & S. W. 9 miles. It blew a hurricane at night -^ithout rain. Many lodges were thrown down although well tied and picketted. Wednesday 10th. We remained the greatest part of the day at this place to dry the meat and bury a woman that died here, and sat of at 4 in the afternoon and pitched the tents by a small creek running west after having pursued our road S. W. by West for 5 miles. The Country was hilly but produsing plenty of grass and numberless flowers of different Kinds.^ Thursday 11th. We passed through a range of hills of about 3 miles broad, on the top of every one was a heap of stones appearing as if burnt, part of the rocks had fallen down the hills. Leaving those hills we had a pretty level plain til] we reach a small brook running S^. West where we encamped, the lesser Missouri in Sight at about 4 miles on our right, by a course south west, we had advanced about 12 miles. On our way we saw a few Battle Snakes but none of them very large; they are the first I saw in the Indian countries and none are to be found more northwards. 1. See Maximilian's list of plants collected in the Missouri country, at the end of his work. 28 OANADIAN AECHIVES Fryday 12th. This day we passed through a pleasant plain and pitched the tents by a small broot 5 miles S. W. of our last encampment. Saturday 13th. We set of at 9 through hilly and barren Country, in crossing two small Creeks, and arrived at 12 on the bank of lesser Missouri, we crossed it and encamped on its border about 2 miles higher. The-Eiver is here about f of an acre in breadth from bank to bank but there is very little water running, the bed appearing dry in many places and is of sand and gravel. A few liards" scattered thinly along its banks. The rugged and barren aspect of the hills which are composed of Whitish Clay looking lik rocks at a distance. The ground on which [we] stood [was covered] with a prickly heap of ^ so very thick that one does not know where to set ones feet, no grass at all. The whole forms a prospect far from pleasing. Our Course was for 12 miles S.S.W. A few days ago a child being sick I gave him a few drops of Turlington balsam' which eased him immediately of his cholic. This cure gave me such a reputation of being a great phisician that I am plagered to cure every distemper in the camp. A man came today to me desiring me to act the man mid wife to his wife. Sunday lith. We remained the whole day here the Indians being bussy with drying meat. I went a little distance up the Kiver and saw a little Beaver work. Monday 15th. We crossed the river at three different times in the Course of this days journey when it happened to inter- sect the line of our course which was S.S.W. and encamped on its borders about 14 miles higher up. It has the same appear- ance in every respect as when we arrived at it. The indiena Killed a few Beavers of which I got two dressed by my men to show them how to do it. Tuesday 16th. We remained here the whole day. The Indians tried to dance the Bull dance in (imitation of the B. Belley's but did it very ill. 1. Populus haUamifera, the familiar Cottonwood of the western plains. The French word gave a name to tho great branch of the Mackenzie- Kiver. 2. Blank in original. 3. An old English remedy still in nse. JOVRNAX. OF LAEOCQUE 29 Wednesday l7th. It rained in the morning, at 11 before noon the weather clearing up, we sat of following the river in a Course S.S West about 9 miles. The bed and Banks in many places were solid Eock; there is very little water running. There is a few trees in the decline of the hill here. Thursday 18th. I went hunting with the Chief while the camp flitted, we killed one cow and returned to the river at 3 in the after noon where we found the people encamped 15 miles S.W. of our last encampment. The banks and bed of the river are rocks ; the plains are a continual series of high rocky hills whose sides and tops are partly covered with the red pine and other wood such as poplar, Elm, Ash, and a kind of Maple. Fryday 19th. We [stopped] at an hour before sun set and encamped 5 miles higher up the river. Saturday 20th. Some one being sick we did not stir. Here the poiat of the Kiver was pretty large and well stocked with wood, viz. Liard, Ash and a kind of shrub resembling the prickly Ash which bears a fruit of the size of a small pea, red and of a sourish taste but not disagreeable. Sunday 21st. The Camp, rose at 8 in the morning and pro- ceeded along the Kiver for about 15 miles in a S.S. Westerly direction ; the banks and bed of the river are of soil but muddy. I saw a beaver lying dead on the banks, here the river is ford- able, without wetting ones feet in stepping over upon loose large stones, as we trotted almost the whole of this day's journey the unusual jolting of the Packages on the horses back occa- sioned the breaking of my thermometre. From this place we left the lesser Missouri on our left, its Course above this ap-' pears to be South to north, and stopping in the plains we en- camped at one in the after noon on the side of a little river running into the lesser Missouri our course S.W. The Banks of L. M. [Lesser Missouri] in sight. We crossed two small Creeks in which there was no running water but many deep ponds in which there are Beavers. We saw this day plenty of Buffaloes. We remained at this place 2 days. I have been very sick since some time, and so weak that it was difficult I could keep my saddle, the Indians on that occasion did not flit. I traded a few Beavers. 30 CANADIAN AECHIVBS Thursday 25th. We sat of this mormng at 10 following the little Greek on which we were encamped for 4 miles by a SiW. course and encamped. Wind S.E. Fryday 26th. We passed through a Kange of hills^ whose tops and sides are covered with pine, and -at tEe foot are many small creeks well wooded with Ash and Maple, there are plenty of different kinds of mint here which emit a very odoriferant smell. We crossed three small Creeks running north and IST. W. into the Powder Eiver* whose bancs we had in sight from the top of those hills. The wind was E".W. & very strong, a hurricane blew at night. The course we have pursued on a very barren soil for 22 Miles was West. Saturday 27th. We arrived at noon at the Powder Eiver after 6 hours ride by course West by South for about 20 miles. The Powder River is here about | of an acre in breadth, its waters middling deep, but it appears to have risen lately as a quantity of leaves and wood was drifting on it. The points of the river are large with plenty of full grown trees, but no underwood, so that on our arrival we perceived diverse herds of Elk Deers^ through the woods. There are Beaver dams all along the river. Three of these animals have been felled by our Indians. When we arrived here the plains on the western side of the river were covered with Buffaloes and the bottoms full of Elk and Jumping deers* & Bears which last are mostly yellow and very fierce.' It is amazing how very barren the ground is be- tween this and the lesser Missouri, nothing can hardly be seen but those Gome de Baquettes.^ Our horses were nearly starved. There is grass in the woods but none in the plains which by the by might vsdth more propriety be called hills, for though there is very little wood it is impossible to find a level spot of one or two miles in extent except close to the Eiver. The current in 1. Powder Kiver Mountains. 2. A branch of the Yellowstone. Eises in Wyoming, among the Big Horn Mountains, and joins the Yellowstone about lat. 46° 46' N. 3. Cervus canadensis, the American elk or wapiti. The French trad- ers and trappers called it la hiche; hence the lake of that name fre- quently mentioned in Henry's Journal. 4. Antelope (Antilocapra americana). See previous note. 5. Grizzly bear (Vrsus horribilis), 6. Probably the dogwood {Cornus). JOUKNAL OF LAKOCQUE 31 that river is very strong and the water so muddy as to he hardly drinkable. The Indians say it is always so, and that is the reason they call it Powder Kiver, from the quantity of drifting fine sand set in motion by the coast^ wind which blinds people and dirtys the water. There are very, large sand shoals along the river for several acres breadth and length, the bed of the river is likewise sand, and its Course North East. Sunday 28th. We remained here the whole day to let the horses feed, the women were bussily employed in dressing and drying the skins of those animals that were Killed Yesterday. I traded one 3 Beavers and one Bear skin. Monday 29th. We rose the Camp late in the evening and pitched the tents about 4 miles higher up the river having fol- lowed for that short space a course S.W. Tuesday 30th. Early this morning we set out ; the body of the people followed the river for about 17 miles S.W. white I with the Chief and a few others went hunting. We wounded Cabrio, Buffalow, and the large horned animal,^ but did not Kill any, which made the Chief say that some one had thrown bad medicin' on our guns and that if he could Know him he would surely ^ie. The Country is very hilly about the river, but it does not appear to be so much so towards the North. About two miles above the encampment a range of high hills begins on the west side of the River, and Continues North for about 20 miles, when it appears to finish. The tongu River* is close on the other side of it. There is a parting ridge between the two Rivers. I assended some very high hills on the side of which I found plenty of shells of the Comu amonys Species* by some called snake shell, likewise a kind of shining stone' lying bare at the surface of the ground having to all appearance been left there by the rain water washing away the surrounding earth, they are of different size and form, of a Clear water Colour and 1. Probably refers to the well-known Chinook winds. 2. Mountain sheep or big-horn (Ovis Montana). 3. The . Indian always blames his non-success in hunting to some 'bad medioinie.^ See Mackenzie (Masson, I, 373.) i. Tongue river. ' The Indian name was (Lazeka.) 5. Comu Ammonis, or Ammonite, a fossil oephalopod shell related to the nautilus. Popularly known as serpent stone or snake stone. 6. Quartz. 52 CANADIAN ARCHIVES reflect with as much force as a looking, glass of its size. It is certainly those stones that have given the name of shining to that Mountain.^ The hills are high, rugged and barren mostly Eocks with beds of loose red gravel on their tops or near it which being washed down by the rain water give the hills a red- ish appearance. On many hills a heape of calomid stone* among which some time I find pumice stone. When we left the encampment this morning we were stopped by a party of their soldiers who would not allow us to proceed, as they intended to have a general hunt, for fear that we should rise the Buffaloes, but upon promisse being made by the Chief whom I accompanied that he would not hunt in the way of the Camp, and partly on my account we were suffered to go on. We were however under the necessity of gliding away unperceived to prevent Jealousy. Wednesday 31st. We sat out at 7 in the mornjng and pro- ceeded up the Eiver in a Southern course for about 13 miles and encamped about mid day; the weather being very warm and the wind from the south. I traded a few Beaver skins. Thursday August 1st. Bain and thunder storm prevented our stirring this day. The water rose about 6 inches in the river and is as thick as mud. The current very swift. Fryday 2nd. Last night some children playing at some dis- tance from the Camp on the river, were fired at. The Camp was allarmed and watchers were set for the night but nothing appeared. It rained hard during most part of the night. We rose the Camp at one in the afternoon following the river for about 9 miles in a south course. The hills of the Eiver are at a less distance from one another than they were here tofore. The bottoms or points of the river are not so large nor so well wooded and the grass entirely eat up by the Buffaloes and Elk. Saturday 3rd. We sat out at sun rise and encamped at one in the afternoon having pursued a South Course with fare [fair] weather and a south east wind. We followed the Eiver 1. Larocque's statement is scarcely probable. It seems more reason- able to suppose that the name— which must have first reached European ears through Indian report— had its origin in the brilliant, snow-capped peaks of the Rookies. See Thwaites' 'Rooky Mountain Exploration,' chap. 8. Probably ' calumet ' stone, or pipestone. JOUENAl OF LAEOCQUE 33 as usually; its bends are very short not exceeding two miles and many not one. The face of the Country indicates our approacli to the large Mountains and to the heads of the Kiver/ A few Jumping [deer] or chevreuils' were Killed today. It has been very Cold these few nights. Sunday 4th. We did not rise the Camp till late in the evening. In the morning we assended the hills of the Eiver and saw the Eocky Mountains' not at a very great distance with Spy Glass, its clifts and hollows could be easly observed with the wood interspersed among the Kocks. We removed our camp about 4: miles higher up the Hiver having pursued a S.E. Course. Monday 5th. We had a thick fog in the morning, the night was so Cold that one Blanket could not Keep us warm enough to sleep, so that I purchased two Buffaloe Kobes. About mid- day however it is generally very warm. We sat of at 7 and con- tinued our way for about 12 miles by a south course along the Eiver and with a north West wind. We arrived at the forks of the Pine Eiver* which are assunder for about one mile, and encamped. The water in this Eiver is clear and good issuing from the Mountains at a short distance from this, and is very cold, while that of the Powder Eiver was so muddy that the Indians were under the necessity of making [holes] in the Beach and drink the water that gathered in them. We left this last mentioned river on our left where we went up the Pine Eiver which is between 20 & 30 yards in breadth and runs ^ over rocks. There is a rapid at every point and very little wood along its banks,. Tuesday 6th. We rose the Camp at 7 and j)roceeded up- wards along the pine Eiver in a S. Western direction for 12 miles, having the Eocky Mountains a head and in sight all day. 1. Tkat is, of the Little Missouri. 2. French for roe-deer (Capreolus caprea), otherwise roebuck. 3. Lewis and Clark anticipated Larocque hy a few weeks in their first view of the Rooky Mountains, but neither could claim the honour of discovery. La VSrendrye having achieved that distinction some sixty-two years before. Larocque has as a matter of fact only reached the Big Horn, an offshoot of the main range. 4. The west abounded in Pine rivers and creeks. Larooqne's Pine river does not appear elsewhere under that name. It .is a branch of Powder river, having its source in the Big Horn range. 2078—3 34 CAIfADIAW ABOHIVES The weather was foggy with a N. W. wind. An Indian shot another mans wife in the breast and wounded her dangerously. Jealousy was the occasion thereof. The Indian after inquire when I intend to depart. They appear to wish me to be off. I have 23 Beaver skins which they think a great deal, and more more than we have occasion for. They thought that upon seeing the Eocky Mountains we would immediately depart as they cannot emmagine what I intend to see in them. It is hard to make them understand by signs only, especially in this case for they do not want to understand. Wednesday 7th. "We sat of at 6 and pitched the tents at 9 miles higher up the River having followed a South course. The Indians hunted and killed many Buffaloes and one cow came and took refuge among the horses where she were killed. At 5 in the evening we again flitted and encamped 5 miles higher up having pursued the same course as in the morning with a head wind. Thursday 8th. We marched 24 miles in a south West course along the Pine Eiver. Many small Branches fall in it at a little distance from one another. A man and horse were wounded by a Bear but not dangerously. There is much fruit here about and many Bears. Wind S.E. We are here en- camped at the foot of the mountain. Fryday 9th. The people went out hunting and returned with many skins to be dressed for tents. The weather is Cloudy and the wind south. Eapids succeed each other in the Eiver here very fast and the current between is very swift running on a bed of Eocks. Saturday 10th. Some Indians arrived from hunting and brought 9 Beavers which I traded for Beads. Weather the same as yesterday. Sunday 11th. They are undetermined in what course to proceed from this place they have sent a party of young men along the Mountains Westerly and are to wait here until they return. They often enquire with anxious expectation of our departure when I intend to leave them and to day they were more troublesome than usual. What I have seen of their lands hitherto has -not given me the satisfaction I look for [in] ' Beavers. I told them that I would remain with them 20 or 30 JOTTEJSTAL OF LABOCQTJE 35 days more. That I wislied very much to see the Eiver aux Eoches Jaunes' and the place they usually in habit, otherwise that I would be unable to return and bring them their wants. They saw it was true, but to remove the objection of my not knowing their lands a few of them assembled and draughted on a dressed skin I believe a very good map of their Coimtry^ and they showed me the place where at different season they were to be found. The only reason I think they have in wishing my departure, is their haste to get what goods I still have. Besides we not a little embarrass the. people in whose tent we live. They pretend to be fond of us, treat us well and say they will shed tears when we leave them. Monday 12th. In the evening the young men that had been sent to reconnoitre returned and reported that there was plenty of Buffaloes & fruit on the tongue and small horn -River,' that they had seen a lately left encampment of their people who had not been at the Missouri (about 9 lodges) that they were gone across the Mountains that they had seen no appearance of their being enemies on that side. A Council ensued, and harangues were made to raise the Camp in the morning and proceed along to the River aux Roches Jaunes. Tuesday 13th. We sat of at half after 8 in the morning following a West Course along the Mountain, through Creeks and hills such as I never saw before, it being impossible to climb these hills with Loaded Horses we were obliged to go round them about the middle of their hight from whence we were in imminent danger of rolling down being so steep that one side of the horses load rubbed against the side of the hill. One false step of the horse would certainly have been fatal to himself and rider. The wind was S.E. in the morning and north W. in the evening and the weather sultry. We encamped at 12 on the banks of a small branch of the Tongue River, whose water was very clear and cold as Ice. The people Killed two Bears to day. I traded a few Bears. I saw a few crows today 1. Yellowstone river. Eiviere aux Eoches Jaunes was the original French name, probably derived from some native equivalent. ,^ 2. The Indian possesses a natural aptitude for map-making. Constant references are found in the narratives of explorers and furtraders to the skill and accuracy of these native geographers. 3. Lewis & Clark's Little Bighorn river. , 2078— 3i 36 dAlSTADIAN AECHIVES which are the only birds I have seen since I left the Missouri except a few wood Peckers, Wednesday 14th. It rained part of the morning, as soon as the rain ceased we sat off when it began again and continued raining until we reached another branch of the Tongue Kiver, where we encamped. We went close along the mountain all the way for about 10 miles by a West Course crossing many small Creeks all running into the Tongue Eiver, most of them were dry but thickly wooded with the Saule blanc;' there was no Bearer work I saw a few Cranes. Thursday 15th. Fine clear weather. I traded 8 Beavers and purchased a horse for which I paid a gun 200 balls, one flanel Eobe, one shirt, one half axe^ one battle do, one bow iron, one comb, one But Knife, one small do, 2 Wampoon hair pipes, one , 2 axes, one Wampoon shell, 40 B. Blue Beads, 3 Mass Barley Corn do and one fm W. S. Ked Stroud.'' We left this place at 11 before noon and proceeded 9 miles in a ITorth West Course and encamped on another branch of the Tongue Eiver, Wind IST-W. fine warm weather. The Indians Killed Buffaloes and a few Bears, the latter they hunt for pleasure only as they do not eat the flesh but in case of absolute neces- sity. Perhaps the whole nation is employed about a bear, whom they have caused to take refuge in a thicket, there they plague him a long while and then Kill him, he is seldom stript of his skin. Pryday 16th. I purchased a saddle and [bridle ?] for the horse I purchased yesterday for which I paid 40 shots Powder Being short of Balls. I gave 20 pounds Powder only for a Beaver 1 Knife, I sell 2 Beavers 10 String Blue Beads, 1 Beaver & so on. We proceeded along the mountain as usual by a IsT.W. Course about 15 miles, crossed 3 small Creeks emptying in the Tongue Eiver where we arrived at one in the afternoon,' we forded it and encamped on the north side, N. & N.E. is a small Mountain lying between this river and the large Horn 1. White willow. 2. A coarse flannel blanket, made in Stroud, Gloucestershire, and very popular at one time in the Indian trad©. In his Missouri Journal (Mas- son), Larocque mentions trading '1 fathom Hudson's Bay red strouds/ The initial letters are not clear in copy; may be 'W.S.', otr 'U.S.', or 'U.T.' 3. Not far north of the boundary between Montana and Wyoming. JOUENAJL OF LAEOCQUE 37 Eiver, they call it the Wolf Teeth^ (Se la is in the Kocky Mountain language and Seja in the ^ig Belly's). Fine wea- ther wind ISr.W. Saturday lYth. The Indians haying hunted yesterday we did not rise the Camp but remained here all day. There were many -Bears here about, who are attracted by the quantity of Choak Cherries^ and other fruit there is here. The Woods along the Eivers are as thickly covered with Bears Dung as a Barn door is of that of the Cattle, large Cherry trees are broken down by them in Grreat number. The Indians Kill one or two almost every day. The Tongue Kiver here is small being only about 20 feet broad with two feet water in the deepest part of the rapids. It receives many additional small stream in its way to the Eiver Roches Jaunes. The points of the Eiver are pretty large and well stocked with wood viz. . . .' & maple. Sunday 18th. At 7 O'Clock we left our encampment and proceeded Northward ; at noon we stopped on a branch of the smal] Horn Eiver & the greatest part of the Indians went on to the small Horn River^ hunt. At half past two in the after- noon we sat off again and crossing the River we encamped on its Borders where we found the hunting partty with their horses loaded with fresh meat. We travelled about 15 miles this day and are farther from the mountain than yesterday though still Close to it. Monday 19th. Since we are close to the mountain many women have deserted with their lovers to their fine tents that are across the mountain, there are no Cattle in the mountain nor on the other side, so that they are loth to go that way, while the desertion of their wives strongly Call them there. Haran- gues were twice made to rise the Camp, and counter order were given before the tents were thrown down. The reason of this is that the wife of the Spotted Crow who regulates our mo[ve]- ments has deserted, he is for going one way while the Chief of 1. Tongue river flows through a small range known as Chetish or Wolf Mountains. Another small range. Rosebud Mountains, lies between Tongue river and the Big Horn. Either mighe be Larocque's 'Wolf Teeth.' 2. The ohoke-cherry (Prunus Virginiana) is found everywhere on the Upper Missouri and Yellowstone. 3. Name of some other tree omitted here. 38 CANADIAN AECHIVES the other bands are for following our old course. Horses have been Killed and women wounded since I am with them on the score of jealousy/ To day a snake Indian shot his wife dead but it seems not without reason for it is said it was the third time he found her and'^'the Gallant together. The Small Horn river runs East from the Mountain to this place here it makes a bend N by East and passing round of the wolf teeth it falls into the large Horn river. The bed of the Eiver here is Eocks a continual rapid, the water clear and cold as Ice, the ground barren an the banlis of the river thinly wooded with same Kind of wood as heretofore. I traded 6 Beavers. Tuesday 20th. We flitted and encamped 3 miles h'gher up the Eiver on a beautiful spot where there was plenty of fine grass for the horses, our Course West. I traded 3 Beavers. Wednesday 21st. I made a present of a few articles to the Chief and a few other Considered Persons. We remained here all day. There is plenty of ash here. There were very few persons in the Camp that were not employed in making them- selves horse whip handles with tha|jpvood; it was with that design they came h^re, as that wood is seldom found elsewhere. I saw some Beavers work on that Eiver. Thursday 22nd. Water frose the thickness of paper last night in horsetracks. I was called to a Council in the Chiefs Brothers tent Lodge, where the Spotted Crow resigned his em- ployment of regulating our marches, an other old man took the office upon himself and told me that he intended to pursue their old course to the Eiver aux Eoches Jaune. I traded 8 Beavers with the Snake Indians in whose possession I saw a Kettle or Pot hewn out of a solid stone, it was about IJ inch thick & con- tained about 6 or 8 quarts; it had been made with no other instrament but a piece of Iron. Eryday 23rd. We rose the Camp at 11 in the forenoon and followed a IST.E. Course for one mile ISF.W. 6 de, & encamped on a branch of the . . . .^ Eiver, where there is a Beaver Dam and other work occasionally found. I traded — 4 Beavers, Wind S.E. the only roads practicable to Cross the mountain are at the heads of this and the Tongue Eiver. 2. See previous note. 2. Name illegible. JOUEETAL OF LAEOCQUE 39 Saturday 24th. This morning we were allarmed by the report that three Indians had been seen on the first hill of the mountain and that three Buffaloes were in motion and that two shots had been heard towards the large Horn Eiver. Thirty men saddled their horses and immediately went off to see what was the matter while all the other Kept in readiness to follow if necessary. In a few hours some came back and told us that they had seen 35 on foot walking on the banks of one of the branches of the' Large Horn Eiver. In less time than the Cour- rier Could well tell his news no one remained in the Camp, but a few old men and women, all the rest scampered off in pur- suit. I went along with them we did not all Set off together nor could we all Keep together as some horses were slower than other but the foremost stopped galloping on a hill, and con- tinued on with a small trot as people camfe up. They did the dance^ when the Chief arrived, he and his band or part of it galloped twice before the main body of the people who still con- tinued their trot intersecting the line of their course while one of his friends I suppose his aide de Camp harangued. They were all dressed in their best Cloths. Many of them were fol- lowed by their wives who carried their arms, and who were to deliver them at the time of Battle. There were likewise nlany children, but who could Keep their saddles. A head of us were some young men on different hills , making signs with their Robes which way we were to go.^ As soon as all the» Chiefs were come up and had made their harangue every one set off the way he liked best and pursued according to his own judgement. The Country is very hilly and full of large Creeks whose banks are Eocks so that the pursued had the advantage of being able to get into places where it was impossible to go with horses & hide themselves. All escaped but two of the foremost who being scouts of the party had advanced nearer to us than the others and had not discovered us, they were surrounded after a long race but Killed and scalped in a twinkling. When I arrived at the dead bodies they had taken but his scalp and the fingers of his right hand with which the outor was off. the[y] borrowed my hanger with which the[y] cut off his left hand and returned it [the knife] to me bloody as a mafE of honour and desired 1. War danoe. See Maximilian, II, 291, et seq. 2. Maximilian, III, 300, et seq — Notes on Indian Sign Language. 40 c'A]srADiA]sr aechives me to at him. Men women and children were throng- ing io see the dead Bodies and taste the Blood. Everyone was desirous of stabbing the bodies to show what he would have done had he met them alive and insulted & frotted at them in the worst language they could give. In a short time the re- mains .of a human body was hardly distinguishable, every young man had, a piece of flesh tied to his gun or lance with which he rode off to the Camp singing and exultingly showing it to every young women in his way, some women had whole limb dangling from their saddles. The sight made me Shudder with horror at such Cruelties and I returned homie in quiet different frame from that in which I left it. Sunday 25th. The Scalp dance was danced all night and the "scalps carried in procession through the day. Monday 26th. It rained in the morning as it did yesterday, at noon the Weather Clearing we sat off Course S.W. wind S.E. fine weather. We encamped in the mountain 9 miles distant from our last encampment by a small Creek in which there was little running water, but an amazing number of Beaver Dams. I counted 6 in about 2 points of the River but most of them appeared" to be old Dams. The young men paraded all day with the scalps tied to their horses bridles sing[ing] and keeping time with the Drum and Sheskequois* or Rattle. Tuesday 27th. We remained here all day, 10 Young Men were sent to 'observe the motions of those who were routed lately^ , they are afraid of being attaked having seen the road of a numerous body of people on the large Horn River. In the even- ing news came that the Buffaloes were in motion on the Large Horn River, and harangues were made to guard the Camp. Wednesday 28th. Two hours before day light, all the In- dians horses were saddled at their doors, they put all their young children on horse back & tied to the saddles, then they slept the remainder of the night. They likewise loaded some horses with the most valuable part of their property while they in the expectation of being attacked sat in the tents their arms ready & their horses saddled at the door. At broad day light 1. Catlin calls the rattle She-she-quois, and says 'that most generally used is made of rawhide, charged with pebbles, which produce a shrill noise to mark time in the Indian dances and songs/ See two illustra- tions on Plate lOlJ, p. 210, Catlin, I. JOTJENAL OP LAEOCQUE 41 nothing appearing they took in their children and unloaded their horses. At 9 in the morning 4 young men arrived and reported that they had seen nothing of the enemy, that there were party Buffaloes between the Large Horn and the Eiver aux Eoches Jaunes. Thursday 29th. We rose the Camp this morning and marched a Course West by iN'orth. The Indians himted and saw Strange Indians. There was a Continual harangue by different Chiefs the whole night which with the singing and dancing of the scalp prevented any Sleep being had. We pitched the tents on a small creek running into the large Horn River distant about 20 miles froni our last encampment. Fryday 30th. We left the place and encamped on the Large Horn Eiver close to the foot of the mountain and of very high Eocks, Course West about 5 miles. Saturday 31st. We remained at this place the whole day. Some young one who had been en decouverte returned from a deserted camp of about 30 Lodges where they found Chief Coats JST'.B. straud' Wampoon shells and other articles, which it seems had been left by the people inhabiting those tents upon some panic. This is what these Indians say but it is my opin- ion that those goods are rather an offering to the supreme being which those Indians often make and leave in tree well wrapt up, and which our young men found. This Eiver is broad deep and clear water strong courrent, bed stone and gravel about J mile above this encampment, the Eiver runs between 2 big Eocks & losses f of its breadth but gains .proportionally in depth. There is no beach at the foot of the Eocks, they are but perpendicular down to the water. It is aweful to behold and makes one giddy to look down upon the rivej from the top of those Eocks.^ The Eiper appears quite narrow and rnus with great rapidity inunediately under our feet, so that I did not dare to look down but when I could find a stone behind which I could keep & looking over it to see the foaming water without danger of falling in. This river does not take its rise in this mountain, it passes through the mountains and takes its water 1. Stroud, i.e., cloth or blanket. 2. The description would Seem to point to the Big Horn Canon, but Larocque's narrative makes it clear that he was farther down the river. 42 CAJfADIAN AECHIVES* in the next range.^ There is a fall in this Eiver 30 or 40 miles above this where presides a Manitoin^ or Devil. These Indians say it is a Man Wolf who lives in the fall and rises out of it to devour any person or beast that go to near. They say it is im- possible to Kill him for he is ball proof. I measured a Kam's horn which I found when walking along the Eiver, it was 5 spans in length'' and was very weighty, it seems to me that the animal who carried it died of old age for the small end of the horn was much worn and broke into small splinters, which was not the case in any of the animals I saw Killed, nor were their , horns of that size neither. The Mountain is here a solid Eock in most places bare and naked, in other places Cloathed with a few Eed Pine. The sides of some Coule are as smooth and perpendicular as any wall, and of an amazing hight ; and in places there are holes in those perpendicular Eocks resembling much those niches in which statues are placed, others like church doors & vaults, the tout ensemble is grand and striking. Beautiful prospects are to be had from some parts of those Eocks, but the higher places are inaccessible. The Large Horn Eiver is seen winding through a level plain of about 3 miles breadth for a great dis- tance almost to its conflux with the Eiver aux Eoches Jaunes. Sunday, September 1st. We Left this place and pitched our tents about 3 miles lower down where we remained two days, while we were here a Snake Indian arrived, he had been absent since the Spring and had seen part of his nation who traded with the Spaniards, he brought a Spanish B[r]idle and Battle ax, a large thick blanket, striped white and black and a few other articles, such as^ Beads, etc. A Missouri Big Belly fished here and cought 14 moyens Cat fish' in a very short time. We had much dancing at this place still for the scalps. There are Islands in the Eiver here but most of them are heaps of sand. The Wooded points of the Eiver do not join the open 1. The Big Horn river rises in Western Wyoming, in the main range of the Kooky Mountains. It flows around the northwestern extremity of the Big Horn range. 2. Manitou, or more properly, Windego. Scores of waterfalls have been the reputed home of this picturesque but rather bloodthirsty spirit. In one form or another, and under varying names, the Windego ranged almost from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 3. Amiurus nebulosus. Moyen catfish, i.e., middle-sized catfish. JOUENAX OF LAEOCQUE 43 plain is seen between them but there is plenty of wood in some places. The leaves beg [in] to fall. Wednesday 4th. We left the encampment and proceeded N. W. by North about 15 miles and pitched the tents on' a Small Creek running into the Large Horn Eirer. Where we left the River we had a level plain for about 4 or 5 miles when the Country became hilly and barren. Thursday 5th. We Kept the same Course as yesterday and encamped on a most small Creek running as the former about the same nature. Fryday 6th. We rose the Camp early and at 11 before noon arrived at Mampoa or Shot stone River/ from whence the Indians went out to hunt, there being plenty of Buffaloes on the road to this place, the mountains were as follows. The mountain along which we travelled from the Pine River lay S.E. another called Amanchabe Clije south, the Boa [or Boii] Mountain S.W. but appeared faintly on account of a thick fog that covered it. Saturday Tth. We remained all day here, the Indian women being very bussy to dry tongues and the best part of the meat and dressing skins for a great feast they are preparing, while their war exploits are recapitulated. Sunday 8th. I sat off early this morning with two Indians to visit the River aux Roches Jaunes and the adjacent part. I intended to return from this place as the Indians will take a very round about road to go there. We were not half ways, when we fell in with Buffaloes, my guides were so bent upon hunting that they did not guide me where I wanted, and we returned at night to the tents with meat, but with rain as it rained from noon till night. The Indians showed me a moun- tain lying North West which they told me was in a direct line to the Missouri falls and not far from it." We passed through two new raised Camps of strange Indians at the door of the largest tent were T heaps of sticks each containing 10 sticks denoting the number of lodges in the .Camp, to have been 70. 1. Manpoa or Shot Storm river, Larocquie spells it farther on. Shan- non's Creek, a small tributary of the Yellowstone. 2. Some error here, as the Great Falls of the Missouri are about 200 miles in an sir line from where Larooque then stood. 44 OAITADIAlSr AKCHIVES Monday 9th, I purchased a horse we had information that four strangers had been seen who likewise saw our people & hid themselves. At night a young man arrived vrho saw and con- versed (I cannot say he spoke for the whole conversation was carried on by signs they not understanding one another lan- guage) with a fort de prairie Big Belly/ they wanted to bring each other to their respective Camps but both were afraid and neither of them dared to. go to the other Camp. The B.B. are encamped on the large Horn Eiver behind the mountain and are come on peaceable terms they are 275 or 300 Lodges. Tuesday 10th. We rose the Camp at 9 and took a N. West Course to the Eiver aux Koches Jaunes where we arrived" at two in the afternoon distant 16 miles we forded into a large Island in which we encamped. This is a fine large Kiver in which there is a strong current, but the Indians say there are no falls. Fordable places are not easly found although I believe the water to be at its lowest. The bottoms are large and well wooded. Wednesday 11th. 5 Big Bellys arrived and came into our lodge being the Chief Lodge. They brought words of peace from their nation and say they Come to trade horses. They were well received by, the Indians and presents of different art- icles were made them, they told me they had traded last winter with Mr. Donald whom they made Known to me a[s] crooked arm.^ I went round the Island in which we are encamped, it is about 5 miles in circumference and thickly wooded in some places all along the ISTorth Side of the Island. The Beaver has cut down about 50 feet of the wood. 9 Lodges of the people that were left in the Spring was joined in they are' 15 tents at present, they encamped on the opposite side'of the River, 1. The Fall Indians of the Saskatcliewaii, {Atsinas). 2. He reached the Yellowstone below Pryor's Fork. 3. John McDonald of Garth, known among the fur-traders and In- dians as 'Bras Croche-" because of his deformed arm. McDonald wrote a series of ©xceedingly interesting Autobiographical Notes, 1791-1816, for which see Masson, II, 1-59. They were written at the age of 85, and are consequently not always to be relied upon in the matter of dates. He says that he built New Chesterfield House (on South Saskatchewan, at mouth of Red Deer) in 1805, and gives a graphic account of the arrival of a band of 'Missisourie Indians ' (evidently the 'Big Bellys' whom Larocque now mentions) aTaout Christmas of that year. Larocque's Jour- nal makes it clear that the year should be 1804. JOUEWAL OF LAEOCQUE 45 Thursday 12th. I traded six large Beavers from the Snake Indians. We crossed from the Island to the West side of the Kiver & proceeded upward for about 9 miles south West and encamped in a point where they usually make their fall medi- cine. Fryday 13th. I bought a Horn 'Sow & a few Arrows a Saddle & pichimom/ part of a tent and a few of those blue Glass Beads they have from the Spaniards, and on which they set such value that a horse is given for 100 grains. Saturday 14th. Having now full filled the instructions I received from Mr. Chaboillez, which were to examine the lands of the Crow Indians and see if there is Beaver as was reported, and I to invite them to hunt it, I now prepared to depart, I assembled the Chiefs in Council, and after having smoked a few pipes, I informed them that I was setting off, that I was well pleased with them and their behaviour towards me, and that I would return to them next fall. I desired them to kill Beavers and Bears 'all winter for that I would come and trade with them and bring them and bring them their wants. I added many reasons to show them that it was their interest to hunt Beavers, and then proceeded to settle the maimers of Knowing one another next fall, and how I am to find them which is as follows. Upoif my arrival at the Island if I do not find them I am to go to the Mountain called Amanchabe Chije & then light 4 dift fires on 4 successive days, and they will Come to us (for it is very high and the fire can be seen at a great distance) in number 4 & not more, if more than four come to us, we are to act upon the defensive for it will be other Indians. If we light less than 3 fires they will not come to us but think it is enemies. They told me that in winter they were alway to be found at a Park by the foot of the Mountain a few miles from this ore there abouts. In the spring and fall they are upon this River and in summer upon the Tongue and Horses^ River. I have 122 Beavers 4 Bears and two otters which I traded not so much for their value (for they are all summer skins) as 1. Or, picMmori, copy is indistin