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 TX 717.B9 1915 
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 FROM OU) E^kMILY MS . BOOKS 
 
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 HODDELLAND STOUGHTON 
 
 LONDON • TSEW^ YORK. • TOROISTTO 
 
First Edition in 1914 
 Second Edition March, 1915 
 
PREFACE 
 
 This is not the ordinary conventional cookery book, 
 affording instructions how to dress, cook, and 
 serve every variety of joint, fish, vegetable, etc., 
 etc., etc. I take for granted that the reader is 
 already acquainted with ordinary means and 
 methods, and is versed in the preparation of simple 
 food. To be a " good plain " cook always appears 
 to me a contradiction in terms : because, if a per- 
 son's treatment of plain dishes is good, she should 
 be equally good at more elaborate ones. The same 
 amount of application will serve for both. To make 
 "plain" dishes palatable is, indeed, the highest 
 test to which a woman can be put. The culinary 
 skni demanded in these pages is of an everyday, 
 common-sense character, such as any housewife, old 
 or young, may exercise with pleasure. For these are 
 chiefly specimens of the " good plain cookiag " which 
 was done by our mothers, and grandmothers, and 
 great-grandmothers — ^the old home cookery before 
 tinned things and preservatives were invented. 
 This book is, in its way, unique. 
 
 In almost every family, at one time (before the 
 present multiplication of printed cookery books) 
 
vi PREFACE 
 
 there existed a manuscript recipe book, or collec- 
 tion of old recipes tied together : passed on from 
 one neighbour to another, or handed down from 
 one generation to another as something really worth 
 knowing. Some of these books and papers have 
 been so frequently made use of, that they are almost 
 worn out. The neat Itahan handwriting is nearly 
 obhterated, the yellow edges of the paper are 
 stained and discoloured with wear : it is difficult 
 to decipher the often shaky speUing and quaint 
 phraseology of the MSS. To collect and select such 
 recipes, therefore, is no easy task, and one very 
 seldom attempted. They are often so jealously 
 guarded and treasured by their owners, that the 
 mere permission to copy them has to be besought 
 as a special favour. I have, however, attempted to 
 bring together a fairly representative collection, and 
 I am sure that among the nearly eleven hundred 
 formulas here set forth, many a reader will recog- 
 nise with dehght some little bit of cookery charac- 
 teristic of her own old home, or will welcome with 
 much satisfaction some long-lost method after whose 
 ingredients she has frequently made search in vain. 
 It will be seen that these are chiefly country 
 dishes, dating back to the good old days when 
 cities had not claimed the multitudes of the shires. 
 Some, indeed, go back to the seventeenth century, 
 when the disparity between town and country was 
 not so great — ^when hardly a Londoner but had 
 his garden, and cornfields separated the City from 
 
PREFACE vii 
 
 the present West End. Where possible, I have 
 indicated the origin of the recipe, or at least the 
 county from which its possessor came. Should 
 any reader care to perpetuate some cherished recipe 
 not included here, I shall be most happy, if it be 
 forwarded, to insert it in a future edition. 
 
 The country meals are not as those of the town. 
 A good hearty breakfast, about eight : a good 
 hearty dinner about one : and that never-suffi- 
 ciently-to-be-praised evening meal entitled " high 
 tea," about six : this is the usual farmhouse routine. 
 Sometimes, indeed, — as on Sunday, for instance, — a 
 light supper about eight-thirty is substituted for 
 high tea : but for the most part, people who go to 
 rest early need no more than a cup of cocoa or some 
 other hot beverage at bedtime. 
 
 There is little doubt that " high tea " is a much 
 more wholesome affair than late dinner. But, beyond 
 this, it affords the opportunity for a vast variety of 
 dishes, both salted and sweet, which do not easily 
 come into the scope of any other meal : and, for 
 this reason if no other, it is devoutly to be en- 
 couraged. A Guildhall banquet can hardly vary 
 the accepted and monotonous sequence of its 
 courses : but " high tea " provides you with con- 
 tinual surprises, unexpected tit-bits, appetising 
 old- ashioned affairs. It obviates the use of alco- 
 holic liquors : and is of aU meals the most sociable, 
 friendly, and satisfactory. I wish some able author 
 would arise and devote his talents to the offering 
 
viii PREFACE 
 
 of A Plea for High Tea. A large number of these 
 recipes would conduce to aid his eloquence. If only 
 out of the hundred and fifty cakes here presented, 
 he might vary the biU of fare perpetually : out of 
 all the various cheese, egg, fish, and savoury made- 
 dishes, it would be an interesting trial of skiU to 
 select the evening's bill of fare. But the latter 
 are equally useful to the town-dweUer, inasmuch 
 that they are of large avail for luncheon or for 
 Sunday supper. A glance at the list of contents 
 win acquaint the reader with the very wide range 
 here proffered for choice : and " right so," as the 
 old authors would have expressed themselves, I 
 commend this little book to aU and sundry. 
 
 M. B. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 Beef and Mutton Recipes 
 
 FRESH MEAT 
 
 1. Beet CoUop Minced (Jfeni, 1809) 
 
 2. Galantine of Beef (Hertfordshire) 
 
 3. Rolled Beef (Hertfordshire) 
 
 4. Beef Kidneys k la Russe (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 5. Beef Olives (Olieshire) .... 
 
 6. For Spiced Beef (Lancashire). 
 
 7. Stewed Rump of Beef (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 8. Broiled Beef Steaks (Eighteenth Century) . 
 
 9. To Dress Beef Steaks, etc. (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 10. Madras Steak (Hertfordshire) 
 
 11. Stewed Steak (Sussex) . 
 
 12. Brazilian Stew (Sussex) 
 
 13. French Stew (Surrey) 
 H. Lancaster Stew (Hertfordshire) 
 16. Boiled Tongue (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 PiQK 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 3 
 3 
 
 4 
 4 
 6 
 S 
 5 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 7 
 7 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 16. Comiah Pasty (West-country) ..... 8 
 
 17. Mock Game (Warwickshire) ..... 8 
 
 18. Stewed Ox Tails (Devonshire). .... 8 
 
 19. Tripe (Surrey) 9 
 
 20. Curried Tripe (Hertfordshire) ..... 9 
 
 21. Fricassee of Tripe (rorifcsWre, 1769) ... 10 
 
 22. Fricassee of Tripe, another way (Yorkshire, 1769) . 10 
 
 ix 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 MUTTON 
 
 PAGE 
 
 23. Basque of Mutton {Eighteenth Centwry) ... 10 
 
 24. Rolled Breast of Mutton (Hertfordshire) . . .11 
 
 25. Best way to cook a Chop (Essex) . . . .11 
 
 26. Naples Chops (Warwickshire) ..... 12 
 
 27. Devilled Cutlets (Essex) 12 
 
 28. Haggis (Scotland) 13 
 
 29. Haricot of Mutton or Lamb (Eighteenth Century) . 13 
 
 30. Haricot of Mutton or Lamb, another way (Eighteenth 
 
 Century) .... ... 14 
 
 31. Haricot of a Leg of Mutton (Eighteenth Century) . 14 
 
 32. Haricot Mutton ( Yorkshire) ..... 14 
 
 33. Potted Head (Sco«Zand) 15 
 
 34. Hodge Podge of Mutton (Eighteenth Century) . . 15 
 
 35. Hodge Podge (Kent, 1809) 16 
 
 36. Hot-Pot (Essex) 16 
 
 37. Kidneys on Toast (Cheshire) . . . . 16 
 
 38. Lambs' Tail Pie (JTenO 17 
 
 39. Forced Leg of Mutton (Eighteenth Century) . . 17 
 
 40. Navarine of Mutton (Hertfordshire). . . .17 
 
 41. Mutton Olives (Hertfordshire) . . . .18 
 
 42. Mutton Patties with Fine Herbs (^igiAieeni/i Ceni«r2/). 18 
 
 43. FienohSteakB of Neck oi Mutton (Eighteenth Century) 19 
 
 44. Neck of Mutton to eat like Venison (Eighteenth 
 
 Century) .... ... 19 
 
 45. Shoulder of Mutton Surprised (BigrftjeeratA Cen««rj/) . 19 
 
 46. Raised Pies ( Yorkshire) ...... 20 
 
 47. Squab Pie (Devonshire) . . . . . .21 
 
 48. Squab Pie (Kent) 21 
 
 49. Oxford John (Eighteenth Century) . . . .21 
 
 50. Broiled Mutton Steaks (Eighteenth Century) . . 22 
 
 51. Sheep's Head (Cheshire) ..... 22 
 
 COLD MEAT 
 
 62. Beef -Cakes (Cheshire) 
 
 63. Bubble and Squeak (Essex) 
 54. Curry (Kent) 
 66. Hunters' Pie (Kent) 
 
 66. Souffle of Lamb (Essex) 
 
 67. Macaroni with Meat (Essex) 
 
 68. Meat Cake (Sussex) 
 
 59. Meat Salads (Essex) 
 
 60. Scalloped Meat (Hertfordshire) 
 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 25 
 
 ') 
 
 
 
 25 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XI 
 
 61. Cold Meat Stew {Sussex) 
 
 62. Muttoa Olives {Devonshire) 
 
 63. Pilafi {Hertfordshire) 
 
 64. Potato Pie {Derbyshire) 
 
 65. Forcemeat for Patties {Cheshire) 
 
 66. Foroemeat for Pies {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 67. Observations on Made Dishes, etc. {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 FIOR 
 
 25 
 26 
 26 
 26 
 27 
 27 
 27 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 PoEK AND Veal Recipes 
 
 PORK 
 
 68. Bacon and Egg Pie to eat cold (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 69. Brawn {Surrey) 
 
 70. Brawn {Essex) 
 
 71. Brawn {Staffordshire) 
 
 72. To Boil a Ham {Eighteenth Century) . 
 
 73. Ham Cake {Essex) 
 
 74. Minced Ham {Isle of Wight) . 
 
 75. Pepper Hams (ifen*, 1809) 
 
 76. To Pot Ham {Ireland) . 
 
 77. Pig's Cheek Collared {Surrey) . 
 
 78. Pig's Shin and Sausages {Sussex) 
 
 79. Pork Cheese {French) . 
 
 80. Pork Cheese {Italian) . 
 
 81. Leicestershire Pork Pie . 
 
 82. Roast Pork in Vinegar {Oerman) 
 
 83. Broiled Pork Steaks {Eighteenth Century). 
 
 84. Stufied Pork {Isle of Wight) . 
 
 85. Savoury Goose {Sussex) . 
 
 86. EppLag Sausages {Kent) . 
 
 87. Oxford Savisagea .... 
 
 29 
 30 
 30 
 31 
 31 
 31 
 32 
 32 
 32 
 33 
 33 
 33 
 34 
 36 
 35 
 36 
 36 
 36 
 37 
 37 
 
 VEAL 
 
 88. Brain Cakes {Essex) .... 
 
 89. Boiled Breast of Veal {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 90. Calf's Head Boiled {Middlesex) 
 
 91. Calf's Head Pie {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 92. To Dress a Calf's Heart {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 93. Veal Cutlets {Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 37 
 38 
 38 
 38 
 38 
 39 
 
xii CONTENTS 
 
 94. Veal Cutlets, another way .... 
 
 95. Neok-of-Veal Cutlets {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 96. Calves' Feet {Cambridgeshire) 
 
 97. Calves' Tongues {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 98. Veal Cake {Lancashire) . 
 
 99. Scotch Collops {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 100. Scotch CoUops, the French Way {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 101. Veal Kidney Pie {Hertfordshire) 
 
 102. Veal Loaf {Surrey) 
 
 103. Minced Veal {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 104. Veal Olive Pie {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 105. Veal Olives {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 106. Scotch Oysters {Yorkshire, 1769) . 
 
 107. Common Veal Patties {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 108. Savoury Veal Pie {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 109. Stuffed Shoulder of Veal {Hertfordshire) . 
 
 VABIOUS 
 
 110. Cold Curry {Surrey) .... 
 
 111. Dry Curry {Hertfordshire) 
 
 112. StuHed Liver {Isle of Wight) . 
 
 113. Mock Sweetbreads {Cheshire) . 
 
 114. Thatched-House Pie {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 Fowl and Game 
 
 115. To Boil Fowls {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 116. To Dress an Old Fowl (OAesAire) 
 
 117. Fowl Spatchcocked with Tartare Sauce ( Hertfordshire) 
 
 118. Stuffed Fowls {Seventeenth Century). 
 
 119. Salmi of Grouse with Claret {Surrey) 
 
 120. Jugged Hare (rorisAire, 1769) 
 
 121. Jugged Hare {Surrey) ..... 
 
 122. Roasted Hare {Eighteenth Century) . 
 
 123. Heron Pudding {Kent) 
 
 124. Roast Partridges, Italian way {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 125. Rolled Partridges {Eighteenth Century) . 
 
 126. Pillau {Cheshire) 
 
 PlOE 
 
 39 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 41 
 41 
 41 
 42 
 42 
 42 
 43 
 43 
 44 
 44 
 44 
 45 
 
 45 
 46 
 46 
 46 
 
 47 
 
 48 
 49 
 49 
 49 
 50 
 50 
 61 
 51 
 52 
 52 
 52 
 53 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Xlll 
 
 127. To Boil Rabbits (1815) 
 
 128. Five Recipes for Cooking Rabbits {Cheshire) . 
 
 129. To Fricassee Rabbits Brown {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 130. To Fricassee Rabbits White (Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 131. Jugged Rabbit {Cheshire) .... 
 
 132. Roasted Rabbits {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 133. Made Dish of Rabbits' Livers {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 134. Roman Pie {Sussex) ..... 
 
 135. Rook Pie {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 PAOB 
 
 53 
 54 
 65 
 55 
 56 
 56 
 57 
 57 
 68 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Soup Recipes 
 
 136. Almond Soup {Eighteenth Gentury) . 
 
 137. Very Good White Ahuond Soup {Yorkshire. 1769) 
 
 138. Barley Broth {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 139. Sheep's Head Broth {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 140. Spinach Broth {Seventeenth Gentury) 
 
 141. Vegetable Broth {Kent, 1809) 
 
 142. Chestnut Soup {Sussex) . 
 
 143. Egg Soup {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 144. Farine Bruise {Surrey) . 
 146. Gravy Soup Thickened with Yellow Peas {Eighteenth 
 
 Gentury) .... 
 
 146. Hare Soup {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 147. Lentil Soup {Hertfordshire) 
 
 148. German Lentil Soup, Vegetarian {Kent) 
 
 149. Milk Soup {Essex) 
 
 150. Mulligatawny Soup {Hertfordshire) 
 
 151. Mulligatawny {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 152. Onion Soup {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 163. Onion Soup {Kent, 1809) 
 
 154. Brown Onion Soup {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 155. White Onion Soup {Eighteenth Gentury) 
 
 166. Ox-Cheek Soup {Ireland) 
 
 167. Ox-Cheek Soup {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 158. Passover Balls for Soup {Jewish) 
 
 159. Pea Soup {Essex) .... 
 
 160. Common Pea Soup {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 161. Green Pea Soup (^«sea;) . 
 
 162. Green Pea Soup {Hertfordshire) 
 
 163. Green Pea Soup {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 60 
 60 
 61 
 61 
 61 
 62 
 62 
 62 
 63 
 
 63 
 64 
 64 
 64 
 64 
 66 
 66 
 66 
 66 
 66 
 67 
 67 
 68 
 69 
 69 
 70 
 70 
 71 
 71 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 164. Green Pea Soup without Meat (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 165. Potato Soup (Uasex) 
 
 166. Potato Soup (Ireland) . 
 
 167. Rice and Bone Soup (Sussex) . 
 
 168. Sago Soup (Hertfordshire) 
 
 169. Cream Sago Soup (Hertfordshire) 
 
 170. Tasty Soup (Essex) 
 
 171. Tomato Soup (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 172. Transparent Soup (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 173. Excellent White Soup (Eighteenth Gerltury) 
 
 174. White Soup with Poached Eggs (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 175. Good Vegetable Soup (-Bssea;) .... 
 
 176. Rich Vermicelli Soup (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 VkOM 
 
 72 
 72 
 72 
 73 
 73 
 73 
 73 
 74 
 74 
 75 
 75 
 76 
 76 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 Fish Recipes 
 
 177. Home-made Bloater Paste (Yorkshire) ... 77 
 
 178. To Bake Cod (Middlesex) . . . . 78 
 
 179. To Dress Salt Cod (Eighteenth Century) ... 78 
 
 180. To Dress Cods' Sotmda (Eighteenth Century) . . 78 
 
 181. Fish Cakes (Middlesex) 79 
 
 182. To Caveaoh Fish (Eighteenth Century) ... 79 
 
 183. Fish Custard (Surrey) 79 
 
 184. Fish Pie (Cape Colony) . . ... 80 
 
 185. Fish Pie (Hertfordshire). . . 80 
 
 186. Fish Pie (Ireland) 81 
 
 187. Fish Pie (Sussex) 81 
 
 188. Fish Pudding (Surrey) . . . * . . .82 
 
 189. Fish and Potato Pudding (Kent, 1809) ... 82 
 
 190. Fish Salad (Devonshire) 82 
 
 191. Scalloped Fish (Hampshire) ..... 83 
 
 192. Good Way to Stew Fish (Eighteenth Century) . . 83 
 
 193. ToStewFlounders, Plaice, or Soles (SigrAteenjfeCenton/) 84 
 
 194. Flounders with SorreU (Eighteenth Century) . . 84 
 
 195. To Bake Haddocks (Middlesex) .... 85 
 
 196. Finnan Haddocks Steamed (Surrey) . , . 85' 
 
 197. Baked Herrings (Eighteenth Century) ... 85 
 
 198. To Boil Herrings (Eighteenth Century) ... 86 
 
 199. Fried Herrings (Eighteenth Century) ... 86 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XV 
 
 PAGE 
 
 200. To Marinate Herrings {Middlesex) .... 87 
 
 201. Herrings and Potatoes {Essex) .... 87 
 
 202. Potted Herrings {Lancashire) .... 87 
 
 203. Kedgeree {Essex) 88 
 
 204. Kedgeree {Kent) 88 
 
 205. Kedgeree {Sussex) ...... 88 
 
 206. Bashawed Lobster {Cheshire) ..... 89 
 
 207. Lobster Fritters {French) 89 
 
 208. Scalloped Lobster {Cheshire) . ... 89 
 
 209. Boiled Mackerel {Eighteenth Century) ... 90 
 
 210. Mackerel Farced {Eighteenth Century) ... 90 
 
 211. Pickled Mackerel {Essex) 91 
 
 212. To Pickle Mackerel (Middlesex) .... 91 
 
 213. Ked Mullet {Eighteenth Century) .... 92 
 
 214. Fried Perch or Trout {Eighteenth Century) . . 92 
 
 215. Perch in Water Sokey {Eighteenth Century) . . 92 
 
 216. Salmon in Broth {Seventeenth Century) ... 93 
 
 217. Salmon Cutlets {American) ..... 93 
 
 218. Pickled Salmon {Essex) 93 
 
 219. Rolled Salmon. {Eighteenth Century). ... 93 
 
 220. Salmon Steak with Cucumber (Yorkshire) . 94 
 
 221. Salmon Timbales {American) ..... 94 
 
 222. To Caveaoh Soles {Eighteenth Century) . . 94 
 
 223. Solomon Gundy, to eat in Lent {Yorkshire, 1769) 95 
 
 224. Baked Sprats {Eighteenth Century). ... 95 
 
 225. Sardine Sandwiches {Isle of Wight) . . 96 
 
 226. Curried Sardines {Kent) 96 
 
 227. Sardines on Toast (Cheshire) ..... 96 
 
 228. Sardine Toast (Essex) 97 
 
 229. Twice Laid (Kent) 97 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 Vegetables and Vegetablan Dishes 
 
 230. Artichokes with Cheese (Surrey) . 
 
 231. Broad Windsor Beans Pudding (Middlesex) 
 
 232. Cabbilow (Kent, 1809) .... 
 
 233. Stuffed Cabbages (Middlesex) 
 
 234. Chestnuts and Brussels Sprouts (Devonshire) 
 
 235. Chestnut Tea Cakes (Surrey) . 
 
 b 
 
 99 
 99 
 100 
 100 
 101 
 101 
 
XVI 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAQB 
 
 236. Cuoumbera with Eggs {Eighteenth Century) , . 101 
 
 237. Fried Cucumbers {Eighteenth Century) . . . 102 
 
 238. Dried Haricot Beans {Surrey) .... 102 
 
 239. Herb Pie for Lent {Eighteenth Century) . . . 103 
 
 240. Hot Pot, Vegetable {Ireland) 103 
 
 241. Kailcannon {Ireland) ...... 103 
 
 242. Boiled Lettuces {Middlesex) ..... 103 
 
 243. Stuffed Lettuces {Middlesex) 104 
 
 244. Macaroni Rissoles {Kent) ..... 104 
 
 245. Macaroni with Tomatoes {Kent) .... 105 
 
 246. Maize {American) ....... 105 
 
 247. Baked Mushrooms {Surrey) ..... 105 
 
 248. Fricasseed Mushrooms {Eighteenth Century) , . 106 
 
 249. Mushrooms au Gratin {Ireland) .... 106 
 
 250. Scalloped Mushrooms {Middlesex) .... 107 
 
 251. Mushroom Powder {Eighteenth Century) . , . 107 
 
 252. Baked Onions (Surrey) 107 
 
 253. Risotto {Lancashire) ...... 108 
 
 254. Risotto for Two Persons {Hertfordshire) . . . 108 
 
 255. To Boil Parsnips {Eighteenth Century) . . . 108 
 
 256. Parsnips Fried to look like Trout {Yorkshire, 1769) . 108 
 
 257. Jugged Peas {Surrey) ...... 109 
 
 258. Peas Pudding {Ireland) 109 
 
 259. Peas Pudding Hot {Ireland) 109 
 
 260. Stewed Feaa {Eighteenth Century) . . . .110 
 
 261. Browned Potatoes with Cheese {Surrey) . . .110 
 
 262. Creamed Potatoes {Kent) 110 
 
 263. Curried Potatoes {Hertfordshire) . . . .111 
 
 264. Seethed Potatoes {Kent, 1809) . . . .111 
 
 265. Potato Sanders {Surrey) . . . . .111 
 
 266. Stewed Potatoes (Xere*, 1809) 112 
 
 267. Potatoes with White Sauce (Af«fd?esea;) . . .112 
 
 268. To Stew Spinach {Eighteenth Century) . . .113 
 
 269. Spinach with Poached Eggs ( rorfcaAire, 1769) . . 113 
 
 270. Succotash {American) . . . . . .114 
 
 271. Scalloped Tomatoes {Sussex) . . . . .114 
 
 272. Vegetable Curry {Kent) 114 
 
 273. Vegetable Goose {Surrey) . . . . .114 
 
 274. Vegetable Hot Pot {Kent) 115 
 
 275. Vegetable Pie {Surrey) . . ... 115 
 
 276. Vegetable-Marrow au Gratin {Sussex) . . . 115 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XVll 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Salads 
 
 277. Apple Salad (Sussex) . 
 
 278. Cheese Salad {Sussex) . 
 
 279. Endive Salad (Middlesex) 
 
 280. German Salad (Hertfordshire) 
 
 281. Haricot Salad (Kent) . 
 
 282. Winter Salad (Surrey) . 
 
 283. Winter Salad (Middlesex) 
 
 284. Salad Dressing (Kent) . 
 
 285. Cheap Salad Dressing (Ireland) 
 
 286. Mayonnaise Sauce (Isle of Wight) 
 
 PiQB 
 
 118 
 118 
 118 
 118 
 119 
 119 
 119 
 119 
 120 
 120 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Cheese Dishes 
 
 287. Cheese Biscuits (Sussex) ..... 122 
 
 288. Creamed Cheese (Cheshire) 123 
 
 289. Cottage Cream Cheese (Rutlandshire) . . . 123 
 
 290. Cheese Fritters (Sussex) . . . . . 123 
 
 291. Macaroni Cheese, Boiled (Isle of Wight) . . . 124 
 
 292. Macaroni Cheese and Tomatoes (Devonshire) . . 124 
 
 293. Cheese Pudding Boiled (Isle of Wight) . . .124 
 
 294. Cheese Pudding (Kent) 125 
 
 295. Cheese Puddings (Surrey) ..... 125 
 
 296. Gloucester Rabbit 126 
 
 297. Ramakins (Surrey) ...... 126 
 
 298. Cheese Straws (Essex) . . ... 126 
 
 299. Cheese Straws (Isle of Wight) . . . .127 
 
 300. Cheese Straws (Kent) 127 
 
 301. Cheese Straws (Staffordshire) .... 127 
 
 302. Cheese Straws (Surrey) 128 
 
 303. Cheese Straws (Yorkshire) ..... 128 
 
 304. Crouatades (Yorkshire) . . . , , .128 
 
 305. Stewed Cheese (Surrey) 129 
 
XVUl 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Egg Dishes 
 
 306. Baked Eggs {Kent) 
 
 307. Birds' Nests {Essex) 
 
 308. Cheesed Eggs {Surrey) . 
 
 309. Curried Eggs {Essex) . 
 
 310. Curried Eggs ( Yorkshire) 
 
 311. Eggs S, la Duchesse (^e«<) 
 
 312. A Pretty Dish of Eggs ( Yorkshire) 
 
 313. Brown Fricassee of Eggs {Yorkshire 1769) 
 
 314. White Fricassee of Eggs {Yorkshire, 1769) 
 316. Omelette {Kent) . 
 
 316. Omelettes {Surrey) 
 
 317. Palestine Eggs (/SMrrei/) . 
 
 318. Scalloped Eggs (Devonshire) 
 
 319. Scotch Eggs {Middlesex) 
 
 320. Scotch Eggs (Scotland) . 
 
 321. Scrambled Eggs (Cheshire) 
 
 322. Eggs Stewed in Gravy (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 323. Egg and Tomato Mould ( Yorkshire) 
 
 324. Eggs and Tomato Sauce ( Yorkshire) 
 
 325. Eggs in the Turkish Way (Surrey) . 
 
 PAQB 
 
 131 
 131 
 132 
 132 
 132 
 133 
 133 
 133 
 134 
 134 
 135 
 136 
 136 
 136 
 137 
 137 
 137 
 138 
 138 
 138 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Savouries 
 
 326. Anchovy Creams (Hertfordshire) .... 139 
 
 327. Anchovy Fillets and Green Butter (Hertfordshire) . 139 
 
 328. Bread and Cheese Custard (Kent) .... 140 
 
 329. Bouehes h, I'ludien (Hertfordshire) .... 140 
 
 330. Beef and Ham Roll (Hertfordshire) . . . 140 
 
 331. FrioateUes (Hertfordshire) . . . . .141 
 
 332. Jamaica Fritters (Devonshire) .... 141 
 
 333. Haddock Souffle (Hertfordshire) . . . .141 
 
 334. Kebobs (Hertfordshire) 141 
 
 335. Onion and Kidney Savoury (Isle of Wight) . , 142 
 
 336. Potted Liver (Hampshire) 142 
 
CONTENTS xix 
 
 PAOB 
 
 337. Liver and Potato Turnovers [Hertfordehire) , . 142 
 
 338. Dressed Oysters (Kent) 143 
 
 339. Fine Patties (Eighteenth Century) . . . .143 
 
 340. Savoury Patties (Yorkshire, 1769) . . . .143 
 
 341. Savoury Mutton Rolls (Hertfordshire) . . . 144 
 
 342. Baked Pig's Fry (Hertfordshire) . . . .144 
 
 343. Savoury Pudding (Sussex) ..... 144 
 
 344. Italian Rice (Middlesex) ..... 145 
 
 345. Savoury Rice (Isle of Wight) 145 
 
 346. Savoury Rice Mould (Hampshire) . . . .145 
 
 347. Fried Sandwich (Hertfordshire) .... 145 
 
 348. Sardine Puffs Hot (Hertfordshire) . . . .146 
 
 349. Savoury Toast (Hertfordshire) .... 146 
 
 350. Mock Crab Toast (Derbyshire) . . . .146 
 
 351. French Toast (Lancashire) . ... 146 
 
 352. Excellent Ham Toast (Hertfordshire) . . 147 
 
 353. Tomato and Mushroom Savoury (Isle of Wight) . 147 
 
 354. Savoury Tomatoes (Hertfordshire) .... 147 
 
 355. Savoiu-y Tongue (Hertfordshire) . . . 148 
 
 356. A Nice Whet before Dinner (Eighteenth Century) . 148 
 
 357. Scotch Woodcock (Hertfordshire) .... 148 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 Sauces 
 sauces for meat 
 
 358. Sauce for Cold Meat (Kent) . ... 160 
 
 359. Simple Sauce for Cold Meat (Kent) . . . .151 
 
 360. Sharp Sauce for Cold Meats (Middlesex) . . .151 
 
 361. Sauce for Roast Meat in General (Eighteenth Century) 151 
 
 362. Cumberland Sauce (Hertfordshire) . . . 151 
 
 363. Devil Sauce (Ireland) . . ... 152 
 
 364. Gherkin Sauce (Hertfordshire) . . .152 
 
 365. Gooseberry Sauce (Eighteenth Century) . . .152 
 
 366. " Gubbins " Sauce (Middlesex) . . . .152 
 
 367. Horseradish Sauce (Middlesex) . . .153 
 
 368. India Sauce (Kent, 1809) . ... 153 
 
 369. Italian Sauce (Essex) . . . . . .153 
 
 370. Piquant Sauce (Hertfordshire) .... 163 
 
 371. Savoury Sauce (Hertfordshire) .... 153 
 
 372. Tomato Sauce (Sussex) ...... 154 
 
XX 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 373. White Sauce {Kent, 1809) 
 
 374. White Sauce for Fowls (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 375. Sauce for Wild Fowl (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 376. Gravy without Meat (Kent, 1809) . 
 
 377. Sauce for a Goose (yorisAtVe, 1769) 
 
 PAGE 
 
 154 
 164 
 155 
 155 
 155 
 
 SAUCES FOR FISH 
 
 378. Dutch Sauce (Middlesex) 155 
 
 379. Cucumber Garnish for Fish (DeuojwAire) . . .156 
 
 380. Geneva Sauce . . . . . . .156 
 
 381. Sauce for Fish (Scotland) 156 
 
 382. Very 'Slice SancetoT Fish {Eighteenth Century) . .157 
 
 383. White Fish Sauce {Eighteenth Century) . . .157 
 
 384. Oyster Sauce (Ireland) . . . . . .157 
 
 385. Egg-Sauce for Salt Cod (Eighteenth Century) . .158 
 
 386. Lobster Sauce (Eighteenth Century) . . .158 
 
 387. Lobster Sauce, another way (Eighteenth Century) . 158 
 
 388. Sauce for Salmon (Eighteenth Century) , . .158 
 
 BOTTLING SAUCES 
 
 389. Black Butter (Middlesex) 159 
 
 390. Browning for Made Dishes (Eighteenth Century) . 159 
 
 391. Excellent Bottling Sauce (Kent, 1809) . . .160 
 
 392. Bottled Fish Sauce (Kent) 160 
 
 393. Fish Sauce for Bottling (Kent, 1809) . .160 
 
 394. King's Own Sauce (Hampshire) . . .161 
 
 395. Liver Ketchup (Lancashire) . . . . .161 
 
 396. Mushroom Ketchup (Surrey) . . . . .161 
 
 397. Tomato Sauce for Bottling (Essex) . . . . 1 62 
 
 SWEET SAUCES 
 
 398. Brandy Sauce (Hertfordshire) 
 
 399. Caramel Sauce (Hertfordshire) 
 
 400. Ginger Sauce (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 401. Orange Sauce (Sussex) . 
 
 402. Raspberry Sauce (Hertfordshire) 
 
 403. Saracen Sauce (Fourteenth Century Modernised) 
 
 404. Sauce for Hot Pudding (Hertfordshire) 
 
 162 
 163 
 163 
 163 
 164 
 164 
 164 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXI 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 Pickles 
 
 405. Pickled Beet Root (Middlesex) 
 
 406. Pickled Cabbages {Middlesex) 
 
 407. Pickled Red Cabbage {Essex) . 
 
 408. Pickled Cauliflower {Middlesex) 
 
 409. Chutney {Kent) . 
 
 410. Bengal Chutney {Surrey) 
 
 411. Bengal Chutney {Devonshire) 
 
 412. Tomato Chutney (Sussex) 
 
 413. To Pickle Gherkins (Surrey) 
 
 414. Indian Pickle (Middlesex) 
 
 415. Lemon Pickle (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 416. Lyons Pickle (French) . 
 
 417. To Pickle Mushrooms (Sussex) 
 
 418. To Pickle Mushrooms Brown (Surrey) 
 
 419. Nasturtium Buds (Seeds) Pickled (Yorkshire, 1 
 
 420. Pickled Young Onions (Middlesex) 
 
 421. Pickled Prunes (Ireland) 
 
 422. To Pickle Samphire (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 423. Pickled Green Walnuts (Surrey) 
 
 424. Ripe Walnut Pickle (Middlesex) 
 
 425. Vegetable Marrow Pickle (Sussex) 
 
 426. Pickling Mixtures (Surrey) . 
 
 769) 
 
 PAGE 
 165 
 
 166 
 166 
 167 
 167 
 168 
 168 
 169 
 169 
 170 
 170 
 171 
 172 
 172 
 172 
 173 
 173 
 173 
 174 
 174 
 175 
 175 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 Puddings 
 
 427. Albert Pudding (Yorkshire) . 
 
 428. Apple Amber (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 429. Buttered Apples (French) 
 
 430. Apple Dowdy (Essex) .... 
 
 431. Egg and Apple Pudding (Yorkshire) 
 
 432. Grandmother's Apple Pudding (Somerset) 
 
 433. Royal Apple Pudding (American) . 
 
 434. Auntie's Pudding (Hertfordshire) , 
 
 177 
 178 
 178 
 178 
 179 
 179 
 180 
 l«0 
 
xxu 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 435. Australian Pudding {Essex) . 
 
 436. Austrian Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 437. Bakewell Pudding {Derbyshire) 
 
 438. Betsy SouiH6 {Hertfordshire) . 
 
 439. Cream Blano Mange {Somerset) 
 
 440. Bolton Pudding {Isle of Wight) 
 
 441. Bonita Pudding {Ireland) 
 
 442. Bradford Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 443. Bread-Puddings, Small {Cheshire) 
 
 444. Brown Betty {Yorkshire) 
 
 445. Cabinet Pudding {Kent, 1809) 
 
 446. Canterbury Pudding {Kent) . 
 
 447. Carrot Pudding {Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 448. Carrot Pudding (1815) . 
 
 449. Castle Pudding {Lancashire) . 
 
 450. Carolina Snowballs {American) 
 
 451. Cauliflower Pudding {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 452. Citron Puddings {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 453. Chocolate Mould {Devonshire) 
 
 454. Chocolate Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 455. Cornish Pudding {Cornwall) . 
 
 456. Colchester Pudding {Essex) . 
 
 457. Cumberland Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 458. Dame Blanc Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 459. Excellent Date Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 460. Devil's Food {American) 
 
 461. Devon " Stir-up " Pudding {Devonshire) 
 
 462. Devonshire White-Pot {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 463. Elizabeth's Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 464. Exeter Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 465. Favourite Pudding {Hertfordshire) . 
 
 466. Fig Pudding {Ireland) . 
 
 467. Friar's Omelette {Essex) 
 
 468. Fruit Pudding {Hertfordshire) 
 
 469. German Pufis (Hertfordshire) 
 
 470. German Treacle PuSs {Hertfordshire) 
 
 471. German Pudding (Hertfordshire) 
 
 472. Preserved Ginger Pudding (Essex) . 
 
 473. A Good Pudding (Devonshire) 
 
 474. Helston Pudding ( Yorkshire) . 
 476. Hominy Snowballs (Sussex) . 
 
 476. Kentish Pudding-Pies . 
 
 477. Lemon Pudding (1815) . 
 
 478. Baked Lemon Pudding (Hampshire) 
 
 PAGB 
 
 181 
 181 
 181 
 182 
 182 
 183 
 183 
 184 
 184 
 185 
 185 
 185 
 185 
 186 
 186 
 186 
 187 
 187 
 187 
 188 
 188 
 188 
 189 
 189 
 190 
 190 
 190 
 191 
 191 
 191 
 192 
 192 
 193 
 193 
 193 
 193 
 194 
 194 
 194 
 195 
 195 
 196 
 196 
 196 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXIU 
 
 F^OE 
 
 479. Cold Lemon Pudding (Hertfordshire) . . .196 
 
 480. Light Pudding {Kent) 196 
 
 481. Light Pudding (iSwMea;) 197 
 
 482. Jjistei Fuddxag {Weatmorland) . . . .197 
 
 483. Marguerite Pudding {Surrey) . . . . .197 
 
 484. Marmalade Pudding {Devonshire) . . . .198 
 
 485. Marmalade Pudding {Isle of Wight) . . .198 
 
 486. Mattress {Durham) 198 
 
 487. Mountain Pudding {Isle of Wight) . . . .199 
 
 488. Muffin Pudding (K'ent, 1809) .... 199 
 
 489. Mysterious Pudding {Surrey) ..... 199 
 
 490. Newark Pudding {Hertfordshire) .... 200 
 
 491. Norfolk Dumplings ...... 200 
 
 492. Nottingham Pudding . .... 200 
 
 493. Oxfordshire Pudding . .... 201 
 
 494. Patriotic Pudding {Yorkshire) . . . .201 
 
 495. Pineapple Pudding {Hertfordshire) .... 201 
 
 496. Christmas Plimi Pudding {Hertfordshire) . . . 202 
 
 497. Christmas Plum Pudding {Ireland) .... 202 
 
 498. Vegetable Plum Pudding (Kent) . . . 202 
 
 499. Polka Pudding (Kent) 203 
 
 500. Pommes au Riz (Hertfordshire) .... 203 
 
 501. Poudiag h. la Monsieur Plaroh (Hertfordshire) . . 203 
 
 502. Potato Pudding (Ireland) ... 203 
 
 503. Boiled Pudding to be eaten cold (Kent) . . . 204 
 
 504. Pudding to be eaten cold (Shropshire) . . . 204 
 605. Quaking Pudding (Eighteenth Century) . . . 204 
 
 506. Queen of Puddings (Surrey) ..... 205 
 
 507. Queen's Pudding (Kent) . . . 205 
 
 508. Raspberry Pudding (Hampshire) . . 205 
 
 509. Raspberry Pudding (Hertfordshire) . . 205 
 
 510. Railway Pudding (Ireland) .... 206 
 
 511. Reform Puddings ( yori«Aire) . . . . 206 
 
 512. Regency Pudding (Kent, 1809) . . . .206 
 
 513. Rice Cake Mould (Hertfordshire) . . . 206 
 
 514. Rice Cheese Pudding (1815) .... 207 
 
 515. Baked Rice Pudding (Ireland) .... 207 
 
 516. Boiled Rice Pudding (Ireland) . . . .208 
 
 517. Small Rioe Puddings (Kent, 1809) . . 208 
 
 518. Fnddiag k la, Royale (Hertfordshire). . . 208 
 
 519. Sandown Pudding (Isle of Wight) . . 208 
 
 520. SnowbaUa (Surrey) ..... 209 
 621. Snowdon Pudding (Devonshire) .... 209 
 522. Sponge Pudding (Devonshire) .... 209 
 
xxiv CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 523. Spoonful Pudding {Seventeenth Century) . , .210 
 
 524. Suffolk Dumplings 210 
 
 525. Sunday Pudding or Fritters (Isle of Wight) . . 210 
 
 526. Sweetmeat Pudding (Hertfordshire) . . .211 
 
 527. Tapioca, SoutR^ (Hertfordshire) . . . .211 
 
 528. Treacle Pudding (Lancashire) . . . .211 
 
 529. Town Pudding (Kent) 211 
 
 530. Welsh Pudding (Shropshire) 212 
 
 531. White Pot (Forfes^iwe, 1769) 212 
 
 532. Dr. Wilson's Pudding (Hertfordshire) . . .212 
 
 533. Yeast Pudding (Ireland) 212 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Pastry and Sweet Dishes 
 
 PASTRY 
 
 534. Observations on Pies (Eighteenth Century) . .213 
 
 535. Apple Tart (French) 214 
 
 536. Almond Cheesecakes (Yorkshire) .... 214 
 
 537. Apple Cheesecake Mixture (Oloucestershire) . . 214 
 
 538. Lemon Cheesecakes (Hertfordshire) . . . 215 
 
 539. Lemon Cheese (Isle of Wight) . . . .215 
 
 540. Lemon Curd (Essex) . . . . . .215 
 
 541. Potato Cheesecakes (Hertfordshire) .... 216 
 
 542. Ground Rice Cheesecake Mixture (Gloucestershire) . 216 
 
 543. Codling Pie (Eighteenth Century) .... 216 
 
 544. Egg Pies (Yorkshire, 1769) 217 
 
 545. Lemon Pie (Surrey) . . . . . .217 
 
 546. Lemon Tartlets (Lancashire) . . . . .217 
 
 547. Mincemeat Pie without Meat (Eighteenth Century) . 218 
 
 548. Mincemeat (Hertfordshire) . . . . .218 
 
 549. New England Molasses Pie (^iTOericon) . . . 218 
 
 550. Orange Pie (Surrey) . . . . . 219 
 
 551. Swiss Rhubarb Tart (Hertfordshire) . . .219 
 
 552. Tart of Rose-Hips (Seventeenth Century) . . .219 
 653. Sultana Pufis (Surrey) ...... 220 
 
 554. Sussex Pancakes (Seventeenth Century) . . . 220 
 
 555. Treacle-George (Devonshire) ..... 220 
 
 656. To make Crisp Paste for Tarts (Eighteenth Century) . 220 
 
 657. Vegetable-Marrow Tart (Sussex) .... 221 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXV 
 
 FRUIT DISHES 
 
 558. Scraped Apples {Surrey) 
 
 559. Simple Recipes for Cooking Jamaica Bananas 
 
 560. Date Cake (Somerset) . 
 
 561. Dates in Custard (Hampshire) 
 
 562. Date Mould (Middlesex) 
 
 563. Green Figs (Hertfordshire) 
 
 564. Fig Jelly (Surrey) . 
 
 565. Stewed Figs (Surrey) 
 
 566. Pear Compote (Sussex) . 
 
 567. To Stew Pears (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 568. To Stew Pippins whole (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 569. Raspberry Sponge (Essex) 
 
 570. Sago Fruit (Kent, 1809) 
 
 FAOB 
 221 
 
 222 
 222 
 223 
 223 
 223 
 224 
 224 
 224 
 225 
 225 
 225 
 226 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 571. French Bances (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 572. Benita Shape (Devonshire) 
 
 573. Brown Bread-crumb Trifle (Surrey) 
 
 574. Coldharbour Balls (Surrey) 
 
 575. Apple Fritters (Cheshire) 
 
 576. Common Fritters (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 577. Plain Fritters with Rice (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 578. Water Fritters (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 579. French Pancakes (Cumberland) 
 680. French Pancakes (Ireland) 
 
 581. Madras Pancakes . 
 
 582. Pink Pancakes (Eighteenth Century) 
 683. Russian Pancakes (Hertfordshire) 
 584. A Delicious Cold Sweet (Kent) 
 685. An Excellent Sweet (Staffordshire) 
 586. Tapioca Cream (Essex) . 
 687. Tapioca Snow (Lancashire) . 
 
 226 
 226 
 227 
 227 
 227 
 228 
 228 
 228 
 229 
 229 
 229 
 230 
 230 
 230 
 231 
 231 
 231 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 Creams, Custards, Junkets, Syllabubs, Etc. 
 
 588. Burnt Cream (Middlesex) 
 689. CoHee Cream (Middlesex) 
 590. Cofiee Cream (Berleshire) 
 
 232 
 233 
 233 
 
XXVI 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 691. Cream for Fruit Pies {Middlesex) . 
 
 692. To make Devonshire Cream (Sussex) 
 593. Frothed Cream {Kent) .... 
 694. Italian Cream {Middlesex) 
 
 595. King William's Cream {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 696. Lemon Cream {Ireland) 
 
 697. Madeira Creams {Hertfordshire) 
 
 698. Lemon Cream {Middlesex) 
 
 599. Ratafia Cream {Hampshire) . 
 
 600. Snow Cream {Kent) .... 
 
 601. Spanish Cream {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 602. Spanish Cream {Surrey) 
 
 603. Stone Cream {Middlesex) 
 
 604. Strawberry Cream {Middlesex) 
 
 605. Swiss Cream {Surrey) . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 233 
 234 
 234 
 234 
 234 
 235 
 235 
 235 
 236 
 236 
 236 
 236 
 237 
 237 
 237 
 
 CUSTARDS 
 
 606. Custard {Kent) 
 
 607. Baked Custard {Berkshire) 
 
 608. Cheap Custard ( Yorkshire) 
 
 609. Chocolate Custards {Surrey) . 
 
 610. Countess Custard {Sussex) 
 
 611. Wassail Custard {Hertfordshire) 
 
 238 
 238 
 238 
 239 
 239 
 239 
 
 JUNKETS 
 
 612. Junket {Somerset) 
 
 613. Junket (Surrey) 
 
 614. Coffee Junket (Surrey) 
 
 240 
 240 
 241 
 
 SYLLABUBS 
 
 615. Syllabub (Kent, 1809) . 
 
 616. Syllabub (Surrey) . 
 
 617. Everlasting Syllabub (Isle of Wight) 
 
 618. Syllabub with Cakes (Middlesex) . 
 
 619. Whipped Syllabub (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 620. Lemon Posset (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 TRIFLES 
 
 621. Trifle (Isle of Wight) 
 
 622. Trifle (Kent) .... 
 
 623. Trifle (Middlesex) .... 
 
 624. Tinned Apricots and Trifle (Surrey) 
 
 241 
 241 
 241 
 242 
 243 
 243 
 
 243 
 
 244 
 244 
 245 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 xxvli 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 Jams, Jellies, Preserves, Pruit Pastes, Etc. 
 
 jams, jellies, marmalades 
 
 PAGE 
 
 625. Apple Ginger ( YorkaUre) 247 
 
 626. Apple Jam (Cheshire) 247 
 
 627. Apple Jelly (Essex) 248 
 
 628. Apple Jelly (Ireland) 248 
 
 629. Apple Jelly (Kent) 248 
 
 630. Apple Jelly (Lancashire) ..... 248 
 
 631. Apple Marmalade (MiMleaex) .... 249 
 
 632. Apple Marmalade (Surrey) ..... 250 
 
 633. Barberry Jam (1815) 250 
 
 634. Blackberry Jam ( Yorkshire) 250 
 
 635. Celery in Imitation of Ginger (Middlesex) . . . 250 
 
 636. To dry Cherries without Sugar (Seventeenth Century) 251 
 
 637. Preserved Citrons (Kent) 251 
 
 638. To preserve Siberian Crabs (Cheshire) . . .252 
 
 639. Crab-Apple Jelly (Kent) 252 
 
 640. Preserved Cranberries (Middlesex) .... 252 
 
 641. Preserved Cucumber (Ireland) .... 252 
 
 642. Quiddany of Red Currants (rorfeftire, 1769) . . 253 
 
 643. Damsons for Winter use (Kent) . . . .253 
 
 644. Gooseberry Jelly (Lincolnshire) . . . .253 
 
 645. Grape Conserve (American) ..... 254 
 
 646. Grape Jelly (American) ...... 254 
 
 647. Grape Marmalade (American) .... 254 
 
 648. Lemon Marmalade (Surrey) ..... 254 
 
 649. Mountain Ash Jelly (Surrey) ..... 255 
 
 650. Mountain Ash Jelly, another way (Middlesex) . . 255 
 
 651. Preserved Melons or Cucumbers (Kent) . . . 256 
 
 652. To Preserve Mulberries in Sugar (Middlesex) . . 256 
 
 653. To Preserve Mulberries dry (Middlesex) . . . 257 
 
 654. Orange Jelly (Kent) 257 
 
 655. Orange Marmalade Conserve (Devonshire) . . 257 
 
 656. Smooth Orange Marmalade (Kent, 1809) . . . 258 
 
 657. To Preserve Pears (Devonshire) .... 258 
 
 658. Pear Marmalade (Yorkshire) ..... 259 
 
 659. To Preserve Jargonel Pears (Ireland) . . . 259 
 
 660. Preserved Peaches (Kent) ..... 259 
 
 661. Quince Jam (Kent) 260 
 
xxvm 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 662. Quince Marmalade (Kent) 
 
 663. Unboiled Raspberry Jam {Oloueestershire) 
 
 664. Rhubarb Jam {Essex) .... 
 
 665. Preserved Rhubarb {Lincolnshire) . 
 
 666. Conserve of Red Roses {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 667. Rose-Petal Jam {Surrey) 
 
 668. Compote of Wild Rose-Berries {Surrey) . 
 
 669. Preserved Stewed Fruit (Somerset) . 
 
 670. To Sugar Small Fruit {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 671. Preserved Tomatoes {Essex) . 
 
 672. Vegetable Marrow Jam {Middlesex) 
 
 673. Preserved Vegetable Marrow {Ireland) . 
 
 674. Dutch Recipe for Preserving Fruit {Gape Colony) 
 
 260 
 260 
 261 
 261 
 262 
 262 
 262 
 263 
 263 
 264 
 264 
 264 
 265 
 
 FRUIT CHEESES AND PASTES 
 
 675. Almaoks (Kent, 1809) . 
 
 676. Apple Cheese (1815) 
 
 677. Apple Paste (Middlesex) 
 
 678. Apricot Paste (Middlesex) 
 
 679. Bullace Cheese {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 680. Cherry Cheese (1815) . 
 
 681. Black Currant Paste (Middlesex) 
 
 682. Damson Cheese (1815) . 
 
 683. Damson Cheese (Cheshire) 
 
 684. Gooseberry Pasta (Surrey) 
 
 685. Conserve or Paste of Peaches (Middlesex) 
 
 686. Lozenges of Red Rosea (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 265 
 266 
 266 
 267 
 267 
 267 
 268 
 268 
 268 
 269 
 269 
 270 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 Sweetmeats and Candies 
 
 687. Candied Angelica (Middlesex) 
 
 688. Burnt Almonds (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 689. Burnt Almonds, Red (1815) . 
 
 690. Burnt Almonds, White (1815) 
 
 691. Almond Paste (Somerset) 
 
 692. Candied Apricots (Surrey) 
 
 693. Candied Barberries (Surrey) . 
 
 694. Barley Sugar (Middlesex) 
 
 271 
 272 
 272 
 273 
 273 
 274 
 274 
 274 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXIX 
 
 695. Barley Sugar [Surrey) . 
 
 696. Black Currant Drops (1815) 
 
 697. Butterscotch (Middlesex) 
 
 698. Chocolate Almonds (Surrey) 
 
 699. Chocolate Drops (1815) . 
 
 700. Coconut Candy (Hampshire) 
 
 701. Coconut Candy (Surrey) 
 
 702. Coconut Candy, another way 
 
 703. Coconut Ice (Hampshire) 
 
 704. To Candy Cowslips (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 705. Candied Filberts (Middlesex) 
 
 706. Hardbake (Surrey) 
 
 707. Lemon Pralines (Hampshire) . 
 
 708. Lemon Prawlongs (1815) 
 
 709. Cqndied Lemon or Orange Chips (Kent) 
 
 710. Marzipan (Middlesex) . 
 
 711. Marzipan Pomme de Terre (American) 
 
 712. Marzipan Potatoes (Hampshire) 
 
 713. Nougat (Middlesex) 
 
 714. Orange-flower Candy (Middlesex) . 
 
 715. Peppermint Creams (Hampshire) 
 
 716. Crystallised Roses or Violets (Surrey) 
 
 717. Sugar Candy (Middlesex) 
 
 718. To know when Sugar is at Candy Height ( Yorkshire, 
 
 1769) 
 
 719. To Make Sugar-plums (Surrey) 
 
 720. Fruit Pastes for Sugar-pliuns (Surrey) 
 
 721. Toffee (Kent) .... 
 
 722. Devonshire Toffee 
 
 723. Everton Toffee (Lancashire) . 
 
 724. Russian Toffed (Surrey) 
 
 725. Turkish Delight (Hertfordshire) 
 
 726. Turkish Delight (Surrey) 
 
 PAGE 
 
 275 
 275 
 276 
 276 
 276 
 277 
 277 
 278 
 278 
 279 
 279 
 279 
 280 
 280 
 280 
 281 
 281 
 281 
 282 
 282 
 283 
 283 
 283 
 
 284 
 284 
 285 
 285 
 285 
 285 
 286 
 286 
 286 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 Cakes 
 
 727. General Rules for Mixing Cakes (Qloiu:esterahire) 
 
 728. Baking Powder (Somerset) .... 
 
 729. Good Baking Powder (Kent) .... 
 
 290 
 
 290 
 290 
 
XXX 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 730. Excellent Chocolate Filling (HertfordsMre) 
 
 731. Icing (Kent) 
 
 732. To Ice a Cake ( Yorkshire) 
 
 733. Almond Icing (Somerset) 
 
 734. Chocolate Icing (Cheshire) 
 
 735. Chocolate Icing (Surrey) 
 
 736. Almond Cake (Middlesex) 
 
 737. American Cakes (Kent) . 
 
 738. American Cake 
 
 739. Arbeth Cake (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 740. Aimt-Mary Cake (Ireland) 
 
 741. Austrian Cake (Hertfordshire) 
 
 742. Banbury Cakes (Oxfordshire) . 
 
 743. Barm-brack (Ireland) 
 
 744. Barm-brack, another way 
 
 745. Bordeaux Cakes (French) 
 
 746. Small Brandy Snaps (Hertfordshire) 
 
 747. Caraway Cakes (Middlesex) . 
 
 748. Charlie's Cake (Gloucestershire) 
 
 749. Cherry Cake (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 750. Chocolate Cake (Somerset) 
 
 751. Chocolate Cake (Sussex) 
 
 752. Chocolate Puffs (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 753. Christmas Cake (Hertfordshire) 
 
 754. Christmas Cake (Yorkshire) . 
 
 755. Cinnamon Biscuits (Kent) 
 
 756. Coconut Biscuits (Gloucestershire) 
 
 757. Coomber Cake (Sussex) . 
 
 758. Cornflour Cakes (Hertfordshire) 
 
 759. Cornflour Cake (Gloucestershire) 
 
 760. Cornish Heavy Cake (Cornwall) 
 
 761. Cracknels (Yorkshire, 1769) . 
 
 762. Cup Cake (Kent) . 
 
 763. Isle of Wight Doughnuts 
 
 764. American Doughnuts 
 
 765. Durham Yule Cake 
 
 766. Ecoles Cakes (Cumberland) 
 
 767. Ethel's Cakes (Sussex) . 
 
 768. Delicious Finger Cakes (Hertfordshire) 
 
 769. Fleed Cakes (Kent) 
 
 770. Galette (French) . 
 
 771. Gfiteau k la Mocha (Hertfordshire) 
 
 772. German Gaufres . 
 
 773. Italian Gaufres . . 
 
 P4QB 
 
 290 
 291 
 291 
 291 
 291 
 292 
 292 
 292 
 292 
 293 
 293 
 293 
 294 
 294 
 294 
 294 
 295 
 295 
 295 
 295 
 296 
 296 
 297 
 297 
 297 
 297 
 298 
 298 
 298 
 298 
 299 
 299 
 299 
 299 
 300 
 300 
 301 
 301 
 301 
 302 
 303 
 303 
 304 
 304 
 

 CONTENTS 
 
 xxxi 
 
 774. 
 
 Hard Gingerbreads {Hertfordshire) . 
 
 PAOB 
 
 . 304 
 
 775. 
 
 Gingerbread (Kent) . . . . . 
 
 . 304 
 
 776. 
 
 Gingerbread Cake (Lancashire) 
 
 . 305 
 
 777. 
 
 Gingerbread (Middlesex) . . . . 
 
 . 305 
 
 778. 
 
 Gingerbread (Yorkshire) 
 
 . 306 
 
 779. 
 
 Transparent Gingerbread (Lancashire) 
 
 . 306 
 
 780. 
 
 Ginger-Cake (Isle of Wight) . . . . 
 
 . 307 
 
 781. 
 
 Ginger Cakes (Kent) .... 
 
 . 307 
 
 782. 
 
 Ginger Cake (Lancashire) . . . . 
 
 . 307 
 
 783. 
 
 Sweet Ginger Cake (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 . 308 
 
 784. 
 
 Wholemeal Gingerbread Cake (Surrey) . 
 
 . 308 
 
 785. 
 
 Mrs. Gurney's Ginger Snaps (Olottcestershire) 
 
 . 308 
 
 786. 
 
 Gingerbread Nuts (Kent) 
 
 . 309 
 
 787. 
 
 Fine Sweet Gingerbread Nuts (1815) 
 
 . 309 
 
 788. 
 
 Girdle Cake (Lancashire) 
 
 . 309 
 
 789. 
 
 Girdle Cake (Kent) .... 
 
 . 310 
 
 790. 
 
 Gold Cake (American) 
 
 . 310 
 
 791. 
 
 Honey Cakes (Middlesex) 
 
 . 310 
 
 792. 
 
 Common Johnny Cake (Ireland) 
 
 . 310 
 
 793. 
 
 Johnny Cake (Lancashire) 
 
 . 311 
 
 794. 
 
 Johnny Cake (Surrey) .... 
 
 . 3U 
 
 795. 
 
 Judges' Biscuits (1815) 
 
 . 311 
 
 796. 
 
 Jumbles (Middlesex) 
 
 . 311 
 
 797. 
 
 Kentish Cakes ..... 
 
 . 312 
 
 798. 
 
 King Cakes (ForfcsAire, 1769) 
 
 . 312 
 
 799. 
 
 Kringles (Kent) ..... 
 
 . 312 
 
 800. 
 
 Lancashire Cake ..... 
 
 . 313 
 
 801. 
 
 Lemon Cakes (Hertfordshire) 
 
 . 313 
 
 802. 
 
 Light Cake ( Welsh) .... 
 
 . 313 
 
 803. 
 
 Lunch Cake (Kent) .... 
 
 . 314 
 
 804. 
 
 Luncheon Cake ( Westmorland) 
 
 . 314 
 
 805. 
 
 Macaroons (Middlesex) .... 
 
 . 314 
 
 806. 
 
 Madeleine Cake (Staffordshire) 
 
 . 315 
 
 807. 
 
 Madeira Cake (Qloucestershire) 
 
 . 315 
 
 808. 
 
 Madeira Cake (Hertfordshire) 
 
 . 316 
 
 809. 
 
 Maids of Honour (Surrey) 
 
 . 316 
 
 810. 
 
 Meringues (Middlesex) .... 
 
 . 316 
 
 811. 
 
 Rag Cake (Ireland) .... 
 
 . 317 
 
 812. 
 
 Ratafia Puffs (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 . 317 
 
 813. 
 
 Ground Rice Biscuits (Isle of Wight) 
 
 . 317 
 
 814. 
 
 Rhoda's Rice Buns (Qloucestershire) 
 
 . 318 
 
 815. 
 
 Rice Cake ( Yorkshire) .... 
 
 . 318 
 
 816. 
 
 Rice Cakes (Kent, 1809) 
 
 . 318 
 
 817. 
 
 Rice Cake (Middlesex) .... 
 
 . 318 
 
XXXll 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 828. 
 829. 
 830. 
 831. 
 832. 
 
 835. 
 836. 
 837. 
 838. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 818. Richmond Cake (Hertfordshire) .... 319 
 
 819. Rich Cake (Hamp«feire) 319 
 
 820. Rich Plum Cake (Devonshire) .... 319 
 
 821. Rout Cakes (Middlesex) 320 
 
 822. Oat-cakes (Scotland) 320 
 
 823. Oatmeal Cakes (Lancashire) . . . . .321 
 
 824. Orange Cake (Somerset) 321 
 
 825. Oswego Cakes (Kent) 321 
 
 826. Paisley Circles (Kent) 322 
 
 827. Parkins (Derbyshire) 322 
 
 Parkin (Lancashire) ...... 323 
 
 Parkin (Shropshire) . . . . 323 
 
 Yorkshire Parkin . . . 323 
 
 Yorkshire Parkin, another way . . . 323 
 
 Plain Cake (Cape Colony) 324 
 
 833. Plain Cake (Surrey) 324 
 
 834. Plain Cake (Forfc«;iire) ... .324 
 Primbles (Hertfordshire) ..... 324 
 Potato-Cakes, salt (Ireland) ..... 325 
 Potato-Cake, sweet (Devonshire) .... 325 
 Queen Cakes (Oloucestershire) .... 326 
 
 839. Queen Cakes (Surrey) . . . .326 
 
 840. Sand Cake (Oloucestershire) .... 327 
 
 841. Sandwich Cake (Devonshire) ..... 327 
 
 842. Sandwich Cake (Oloucestershire) .... 327 
 
 843. Scotch Cake 327 
 
 844. Seed Cake (Cheshire) 328 
 
 845. Seed Biscuits (Kent) 328 
 
 846. Seed Cake, rich (Oloucestershire) .... 329 
 
 847. Seed Cake (Ireland) . .... 329 
 
 848. Common Seed Cake (Yorkshire) .... 329 
 
 849. Tipperary Seed Cake (Ireland) .... 330 
 
 850. Ayrshire Shortcake (Scotland) .... 330 
 
 851. Saffron Cake (Cornwall) 331 
 
 852. Shortbread (Kent, 1809) 331 
 
 853. Shortbread (Leicestershire) ..... 332 
 
 854. Shortbread Biscuits (Hertfordshire) . . . 332 
 
 855. Ginger Shortbread (Hertfordshire) .... 332 
 
 856. Shrewsbury Cakes (Shropshire) .... 332 
 
 857. Shrewsbury Cakes (Kent) 333 
 
 868. Shrewsbury Cakes (Staffordshire) .... 333 
 
 859. Silver Cake (American) ...... 33J 
 
 860. Simnel Cake (Gloucestershire) . . . 333 
 
 861. Mrs. Stookdel's Small Cakes (Seventeenth Century) . 334 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXXI II 
 
 862. Slim Cakes {Kent) 
 
 863. Soda Cake {Kent) ! 
 
 864. Soda Cake, another way 
 
 865. Soda Cake ( Yorkshire) . 
 
 866. Sponge Cake {Surrey) . 
 
 867. Cheap Sponge Cake {Surrey) . 
 
 868. Rich Sponge Cake {Hampshire) 
 
 869. Sultana Cake {Devonshire) 
 
 870. Sussex Cakes 
 
 871. Sweet Biscuits {Yorkshire) 
 
 872. Swiss Rolls {Kent) 
 
 873. Tea Biscuits {Surrey) . 
 
 874. Little Tea-Biscuits {Surrey) . 
 
 875. Tea Cakes {Middlesex) . 
 
 876. Buttermilk Tea Cakes (Somerset) 
 
 877. Fried Tea Cakes (Somerset) . 
 
 878. Potato Tea Cakes (Isle of Wight) 
 
 879. Treacle Cake (Yorkshire) 
 
 880. Iced Triffies (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 881. Waffles (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 882. Walnut Cake (Hertfordshire) . 
 
 883. Wennington Cakes (Yorkshire) 
 
 884. The Most Wholesome of Cakes (Surrey) 
 
 885. Wiggs (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 FAQB 
 
 334 
 335 
 336 
 335 
 335 
 336 
 336 
 336 
 337 
 337 
 337 
 337 
 338 
 338 
 338 
 339 
 339 
 339 
 340 
 340 
 341 
 341 
 341 
 342 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 Bread, Rolls, Buns, Muffins, Etc. 
 
 886. To Make Household Bread (Middlesex) 
 
 887. Home-made Bread (Middlesex) 
 
 888. Home-made Bread (Essex) . 
 
 889. Com Bread (Ireland) . 
 
 890. Italian Bread 
 
 891. Mannheim Bread (Qerman) . 
 
 892. Potato Bread (French) . 
 
 893. Yankee Brown Bread (Ireland) 
 
 894. Little Loaves (Kent) 
 
 895. French Rolls 
 
 896. Milk Rolls (Devonshire) 
 
 897. SuSolk Rusks 
 
 344 
 346 
 347 
 348 
 348 
 348 
 348 
 349 
 349 
 349 
 350 
 360 
 
XXXIV 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 898. Rusks {Kent) 
 
 899. Tops aad Bottoms {Kent) 
 
 FAQB 
 
 350 
 350 
 
 BUNS 
 
 900. Buns and French Bread {Hertfordshire) 
 
 901. Brown Meal Buns {Hertfordshire) 
 
 902. Bath Buns {Kent, 1809) 
 
 903. Buttermilk Buns (Kent) 
 
 904. Coburg Buns {Northumberland) 
 
 905. CoHee Buns {Somerset) . 
 
 906. Easter Buns {Surrey) 
 
 907. Lemon Buns {Kent) 
 
 908. Plain Buns {Kent) 
 
 909. Plain Buns {Cape Colony) 
 
 910. Saffron Buns (Cornwall) 
 
 911. Currant Loaf {Hertfordshire) . 
 
 351 
 351 
 351 
 352 
 352 
 353 
 353 
 353 
 354 
 354 
 354 
 355 
 
 SCONES 
 
 912. Scone Flour {Hertfordshire) 
 
 913. Scones (Devonshire) 
 
 914. Scones (Hertfordshire) 
 
 915. Scones (Kent) 
 
 916. Scones, another way 
 
 917. Scones, another way 
 
 918. Irish Scones 
 
 919. Scotch Scones (Lancashire) 
 
 920. Soda Scones (Scottish) . 
 
 921. Wheatmeal Scones (Isle of Wight) 
 
 355 
 355 
 356 
 356 
 356 
 357 
 357 
 357 
 357 
 358 
 
 CRUMPETS. ETC, 
 
 922. Crumpets (Kent) . 
 
 923. Muffins (Middlesex) 
 
 924. Pikelets (Staffordshire) . 
 
 925. Sally Lunn (Lancashire) 
 
 926. Sally Lunn (Kent) 
 
 927. Splits (Kent) 
 
 928. Tea-Cakes (Lancashire) 
 
 929. Tea-Cakes (Yorkshire) . 
 
 930. To Make Barm or Yeast (Cheshire) . 
 
 931. To Make Barm or Yeast, another way 
 
 932. To make Barm or Yeast (Lancashire) 
 
 358 
 359 
 359 
 360 
 360 
 360 
 360 
 360 
 361 
 361 
 362 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXXV 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Beverages 
 
 HOME-MADE WINES (ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 PAOB 
 
 933. Apple Wine (1822) 364 
 
 934. Blackberry Wine {Eaaex) 364 
 
 935. Balm Wiue {Yorkshire, 1769) . . . .364 
 
 936. Cowslip Wine (1815) 365 
 
 937. Cowslip Wine (/Surrey) 366 
 
 938. Cowslip Wine, another way ..... 366 
 
 939. Currant Wine (1815) 367 
 
 940. Cvirrant Wine (1822) 367 
 
 941. Currant Wine (Kent) 368 
 
 942. Elderberry Wine (Essex) 368 
 
 943. Elderberry Wine {Surrey) 369 
 
 944. Elderberry Wine (Sussex) 370 
 
 945. Ginger Wine (1815) 370 
 
 946. Ginger Wine (Kent, 1809) 371 
 
 947. Gooseberry Wine (1822) 371 
 
 948. Green Gooseberry Wine (Lancashire) . . . 372 
 
 949. Green Gooseberry Wine, another way . . . 372 
 
 950. Grape Wine (Kent) ... . . 372 
 
 951. Lemon Wine (Kent, 1809) 373 
 
 952. Lemon Wine (1815) 374 
 
 953. Madeira Wine (Kent, 1809) 374 
 
 954. Marigold Wine (Surrey) ..... 375 
 
 955. Mead (1815) 376 
 
 956. Mead (Middlesex) 376 
 
 957. Mead (Surrey) 376 
 
 958. Metheglin (Cornwall) 376 
 
 959. Orange Wine (1815) 377 
 
 960. Raisin Wine (1815) 377 
 
 961. Rhubarb Wine (Suffolk) 378 
 
 962. English Sherry (Kent, 1809) 378 
 
 963. Valentia Wine (Kent, 1809) 378 
 
 BEERS (NON-ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 964. Ginger Beer (1822) 
 
 965. Ginger Beer (Kent) 
 
 966. Ginger Beer, another way 
 
 379 
 379 
 380 
 
XXX VI 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 967. Ginger Beer {Middlesex) 
 
 968. Ginger Beer {Staffordshire) 
 
 969. Ginger Beer {Sussex) 
 
 970. Ginger Pop {Ireland) 
 
 971. Imperial Pop {Kent, 1809) 
 
 972. Nettle Beer {Hampshire) 
 
 973. Nettle Beer {Surrey) 
 
 974. Nettle Beer, another way 
 
 975. Treacle Beer (1822) 
 
 PAQH 
 
 380 
 381 
 381 
 381 
 382 
 382 
 382 
 383 
 383 
 
 LEMONADE, SYRUPS, FBUIT VINEGARS, ETC. 
 
 976. Blackberry Syrup {Essex) 384 
 
 977. Blackberry Vinegar {Surrey) ..... 384 
 
 978. Cherry Water 385 
 
 979. Cowslip Syrup {Surrey) 385 
 
 980. Elder Rob {Eighteenth Century) .... 385 
 
 981. Flummery (Ireland) 386 
 
 982. Fruit Syrup {French) 386 
 
 983. Gingerette {Sussex) 386 
 
 984. Ginger-Wine, non-Alcoholic {Ireland) . . . 386 
 
 985. Syrup of Gilliflowers {Yorkshire, 1769) . . 387 
 
 986. Lemonade {Ireland) 387 
 
 987. Lemonade {Sussex) .... 387 
 
 988. Lemonade Syrup {Lancashire) .... 387 
 
 989. Lemon Syrup (Essex) ...... 388 
 
 990. Lemon Syrup (Kent, 1809) 388 
 
 991. Raspberry Vinegar (1815) 388 
 
 992. Raspberry Vinegar (Surrey) ..... 389 
 
 993. Raspberry Shrub (Surrey) ... . 389 
 
 994. Sherbet (Sussex) 390 
 
 VARIOUS MIXED BEVERAGES (ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 995. Ale Syllabub (American) ..... 390 
 
 996. Bishop (Middlesex) . .... 390 
 
 997. Bishop (Surrey) 390 
 
 998. Claret Cup (Cheshire) 391 
 
 999. Claret Cup, another way ..... 391 
 
 1000. Egg Flip (American) 391 
 
 1001. Egg Flip (Cheshire) 392 
 
 1002. Egg Hot (Middlesex) 392 
 
 1003. Mint Julep (American) 393 
 
 1004. Mulled Wine (Middlesex) 393 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 xxxvu 
 
 1005. Mulled Wine {Surrey) . . . . 
 
 1006. Negus {Surrey) 
 
 1007. A Restorative {Sussex) 
 
 1008. White Wine Whey {Eighteenth Century) 
 
 393 
 
 394 
 394 
 394 
 
 COFFEE AND TEA 
 
 1009. CoSee {Surrey) . 
 
 1010. Tea for a Headache {Surrey) 
 
 395 
 396 
 
 LIQUEURS, CORDIALS, RATAFIAS 
 
 1011. Alkermes {French) 397 
 
 1012. Aniseed (1815) 398 
 
 1013. Anisette {French) 398 
 
 1014. AngeUoa Ratafia {Surrey) ..... 398 
 
 1015. Apricot Ratafia {Middlesex) . . . . .398 
 
 1016. Aqua Vitse Composita {Sixteenth Century) . . 399 
 
 1017. Caraway Cordial {Surrey) ..... 399 
 
 1018. Cherry Brandy {Kent) 400 
 
 1019. Cherry Brandy {Middlesex, 1822) .... 400 
 
 1020. Black Cherry Brandy (yorfeiAire, 1769) . . . 400 
 
 1021. Lisbon Cherry Bounce {Kent, 1809) . . . 400 
 
 1022. Chocolate Liqueur (1815) 401 
 
 1023. Cinnamon Water {Middlesex) . . . .401 
 
 1024. Clove Water (Middlesex) 401 
 
 1025. Coffee Liqueur (1815) 402 
 
 1026. Coriander Cordial {Surrey) ..... 402 
 
 1027. Coriander Water {Middlesex) . . . 402 
 
 1028. Cornelia or Cinnamon Cordial (18l'5) . . . 402 
 
 1029. Curasao {Surrey) 403 
 
 1030. Curajao, another way . ..... 403 
 
 1031. Hawthorn Brandy {Middlesex, 1822) . . .403 
 
 1032. Hawthorn Brandy {Surrey) 403 
 
 1033. Lovage {Surrey) ....... 404 
 
 1034. Noyeau (1822) 404 
 
 1035. Noyeau {Kent, 1809) 405 
 
 1036. Noyeau (Kent) 405 
 
 1037. Noyeau {LaruMshire) ...... 405 
 
 1038. Noyeau (Middlesex) 406 
 
 1039. Oil of Roses (Surrey) 406 
 
 1040. Oil of Roses, another way . . . . .407 
 
 1041. Oil of Roses (Frerwh) 407 
 
 1042. Perfetto Amore(1815) 407 
 
xxxviii CONTENTS 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAGB 
 
 1043. Persioo (1815) 408 
 
 1044. Pineapple Liqueur 
 
 
 
 408 
 
 1045. Milk Punch (1815) 
 
 
 
 408 
 
 1046. To Make any kind of Liqueur {Surrey) 
 
 
 
 408 
 
 1047. To Make any kind of Ratafia (Surrey) 
 
 
 
 409 
 
 1048. Raspberry Ratafia (Middlesex) 
 
 
 
 409 
 
 1049. Raspberry Ratafia, another way 
 
 
 
 
 410 
 
 1050. Ratafia of Roses (Middlesex) 
 
 
 
 
 410 
 
 1051. Syrup for Ratafias, etc. (Surrey) 
 
 
 
 
 410 
 
 1052. Ratafia (1822) . 
 
 
 
 
 411 
 
 1053. RosoKo (French) . 
 
 
 
 
 411 
 
 1054. Sloe Gm (Essex) . 
 
 
 
 
 411 
 
 1055. Vespetro (French) 
 
 
 
 
 412 
 
 1056. Vespetro, another way . 
 
 
 
 
 412 
 
 1057. Huile de Violettes (French) . 
 
 
 
 
 412 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Invalid and Convalescent Cookery 
 
 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 
 
 1058. Arrowroot Blancmange (Kent) 
 
 1059. Arrowroot Jelly (Middlesex) 
 
 1060. " Salisbury " Minced Beef 
 
 1061. Chicken Panada (Cheshire) 
 
 1062. White-of-Egg FUp (Surrey) 
 
 1063. Jaunemange (Hampshire) 
 
 1064. Beef Jelly (Surrey) 
 
 1065. Bread Jelly (Kent, 1809) 
 
 1066. Claret Jelly (Kent) 
 
 1067. Port Wine Jelly (Sussex) 
 
 1068. Port Wine Jelly (KerU, 1809) 
 
 1069. Restorative Jelly (Kent, 1809) 
 
 1070. Strengthening Jelly (Kent, 1809) 
 
 1071. Port Wine Lozenges (Kent, 1809) 
 
 413 
 414 
 414 
 414 
 415 
 415 
 416 
 416 
 416 
 417 
 417 
 417 
 417 
 418 
 
 INVALID BEVERAGES 
 
 1072. Apple Barley-water (Cheshire) 
 
 1073. Apple Toast-and-Water (Cheshire) . 
 
 1074. Aromatic Barley-water (Cheshire) . 
 
 418 
 418 
 419 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 1075. Pearl Barley-water {Cheshire) 
 
 1076. Beef Tea {Lancashire) . 
 
 1077. Good Cooling Drink {Cheshire) 
 
 1078. Imperial {Surrey) 
 
 1079. Lively Imperial {Kent, 1809) 
 
 1080. Quiet Imperial (JTerei, 1809) . 
 
 1081. Sago Posset {Cheshire) . 
 
 PAOB 
 
 419 
 419 
 419 
 419 
 420 
 420 
 420 
 
 CHAPTER XXn 
 
 
 Vaeiotts 
 
 
 1082. 
 
 Bread Crumbs for Roast Game {Surrey) , 
 
 . 421 
 
 1083. 
 
 To Preserve Butter {Ireland) 
 
 . 421 
 
 1084. 
 
 To Preserve Butter Firm in Summer {Kent) 
 
 . 422 
 
 1085. 
 
 Rice for Curry {Middlesex) . 
 
 . 422 
 
 1086. 
 
 Curry Powder {Kent, 1809) . 
 
 . 422 
 
 1087. 
 
 Curry Powder {Middlesex) . 
 
 . 422 
 
 1088. 
 
 Irish Fadge 
 
 . 423 
 
 1089. 
 
 Mock Ice {Middlesex) .... 
 
 . 423 
 
 1090. 
 
 Lime Water for Preserving Eggs {Yorkshire) 
 
 . 424 
 
 1091. 
 
 Mustard {Seventeenth Century) 
 
 . 424 
 
 1092. 
 
 Mustard, another way 
 
 . 424 
 
 1093. 
 
 Mustard {Surrey) .... 
 
 . 424 
 
 1094. 
 
 Porridge {Ireland) .... 
 
 . 425 
 
 1095. 
 
 Pot-pourri (1822) .... 
 
 . 425 
 
 1096. 
 
 Rose-water {Surrey) .... 
 
 . 426 
 
 1097. 
 
 Hints on Storage {Surrey) . 
 
 . 427 
 
SOME PRELIMINAEY REMAEKS 
 
 Please read these attentively. They are most im- 
 portant to the successful carrying-out of the recipes. 
 Practised and expert cooks may regard them as 
 " coals to Newcastle," but to less experienced women 
 they will be of value : there is a moment in 
 everybody's life when a thing is learned for the 
 first time, and indeed, some of the following points 
 are unknown to, or neglected by, cooks who profess 
 themselves quite proficient. 
 
 1. Let all hot foods be served upon hot dishes, with 
 hot plates, and kept hot under a warmed cover. This 
 rule is frequently ignored by people who consider 
 they are good cooks, with the result that the most 
 carefully prepared dish is spoiled. The simplest 
 food served " hot-and-hot " is better than the most 
 recherche one upon cold plates and dishes. If you 
 can't heat your dishes, etc., in the oven or on the 
 rack, put them in the fender, or dip them in hot 
 water, or stand them on top of a boiling pan. But, 
 by hook or crook, heat them. 
 
 2. Vicer^oersa. Never serve cold foods upon luke- 
 warm or just-washed plates and dishes. Be sure 
 
 xU 
 
xlii SOME PRELIMINARY REMARKS 
 
 that a cold preparation is cold : and if not, take 
 means to make it so. Stand it out-of-doors, or in a 
 bowl of cold water, or in a basin of wet silver-sand : 
 but get it cold, not horridly tepid. 
 
 3. Always allow a little more than the time allotted 
 in a recipe, in arranging for the hour of a meal. 
 Punctuality in serving a plain dish is better than 
 a costly dish served late. As a rule, it is safe to 
 allow at least a quarter of an hour per lb. for 
 baking (plus a quarter of an hour extra " for the 
 oven," i.e. before the meat starts cooking), and 
 twenty minutes per lb. for boiling meat, with 
 rather more for steaming ; it being remembered, 
 in the former case, that no two range ovens are alike, 
 and that it is very difficult to maintain the same 
 degree of uniform heat for hours at a time (especi- 
 ally as certain ovens are affected by certain winds) : 
 and in the second case, that boiling, as regards meat, 
 is not boiling but quiet simmering. Meat boiled 
 is meat spoiled. All this must be taken into con- 
 sideration in arranging a meal. Where a gas-stove 
 is employed, the heat can, of course, be maintained 
 at a more uniform temperature. Steaming is, in 
 almost every case of meat and vegetables, superior 
 to boiling. 
 
 4. Always go by weight and measure : it is safer 
 than " rule of thumb." The accurate balance of 
 ingredients, especially as regards flavourings and 
 seasonings, is one of the secrets of success : any 
 deviation from it upsets the recipe. Lots of people 
 
SOME PRELIMINARY REMARKS xliii 
 
 win not take the trouble to follow out the exact 
 proportions defined, and then are astonished at the 
 failure of their attempts. Occasionally, however, 
 a recipe may be actually altered ; as, for instance, 
 the next paragraph will show. 
 
 5. In boiled suet puddings, the best rule (what- 
 ever the recipe may say) is to use flour and bread- 
 crumbs in equal quantities, or even in a larger 
 proportion of crumbs than flour : never all flour. 
 This ensures lightness. Suet should be grated rather 
 than chopped : bread passed through a fine sieve, 
 rather than grated. The cloth, if any, should be 
 rinsed and wrung out in boiling water and well 
 floured. Where a pudding is steamed, no cloth is 
 required. 
 
 6. Dried fruits should be quickly washed, and 
 dried in a clean cloth, before using. It is surprising 
 how they accumulate dust and grit. All whole 
 Valencia raisins should be well stoned, and sultanas 
 well picked. Bought "stoned" raisins are never 
 so fresh and nice as whole ones. Currants should 
 be scalded and then dried as above. Many persons 
 are too lazy to do this properly. 
 
 7. Never omit salt from the making of any so- 
 called salted dish. Pepper is a matter of dis- 
 cretion—but salt is a matter of necessity. This 
 applies especially to vegetables, sauces, and gravies, 
 where folks too often forget it. But also re- 
 member to put a small pinch of salt into the making 
 of every sweet dish — puddings, pies, cakes, custards, 
 
xliv SOME PRELIMINARY REMARKS 
 
 etc. This is most important. It enhances and 
 brings out the flavour in a marvellous manner. 
 
 8. It is better to keep jams and all dry stores 
 against an inside wall. They will gather mould or 
 nuldew much sooner against an outer one. 
 
 9. Never, if possible, omit that trifling touch of 
 decoration which makes the simplest dish look 
 appetising, and the homeliest table attractive. A 
 few sprigs of parsley, with cold dishes, or with fish : 
 a Httle cut lemon, and so forth, are an immense 
 addition to the look of a dish. And a jar of flowers 
 upon the table — ^the cheapest, the commonest 
 flowers and leaves — makes aU the difference in the 
 world. A meal then appears — ^without one's know- 
 ing why — something more than merely eating to 
 satisfy the wants of the body. It becomes a plea- 
 sant and attractive affair, beneficial and tonic to 
 the mind. 
 
 10. Use up and make the best of what you have, 
 before proceeding to purchase fresh material. But 
 do not be penny-wise in the utilising of any scraps 
 or remainders when they are evidently on the 
 down-grade. Never let mere motives of economy 
 tempt you to risk using anything which is in the 
 least sour, stale, or tainted, especially as regards 
 fish, stock, meat, or vegetables. Health is the first 
 consideration of aU. 
 
 Further practical hints will be found appended 
 to the various sections. 
 
POSTSCRIPT 
 
 The terms " spoonful," " cupful," etc., have been 
 very loosely used by the original transcribers of 
 these recipes. I have cleared up any doubt, to the 
 best of my ability, by interpolating the (probable) 
 correct amount. As a general rule it will be found 
 that " spoonful " means tablespoon ftU, and " cup- 
 ful," breakfastcupful ; but the reader must exercise 
 her own discretion in two or three cases. 
 
 Several local, provincial, or obsolete words seem 
 to require interpretation. 
 
 Barm and yeast are identical. 
 
 To Cree (North-country) is to expand by slow 
 cooking in water. To Plim is the South-country 
 equivalent. 
 
 To Coddle is to parboil. 
 
 Earning is curdling-liquid, such as rennet. 
 
 Farce is forcemeat or stuffing. 
 
 Peeps are flower-petals. 
 
 Pot may mean jar, pan, " crock," or " mug " 
 (North-coimtry), or gallipot : according to the 
 context. 
 
 Sack may be modernised as very sweet white 
 wine, — Sherry, Marsala, Madeira, etc. 
 
 French wine usually indicates claret, and Lisbon 
 vnne, port. 
 
 A Tossing-pan is a frying-pan. 
 
 xlv 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 Note. — To the housewife pretty nearly at the end 
 of her resources, no less than to the hungry folk 
 for whom she caters, several of the following sug- 
 gestions will come with all the force of novelty. I 
 have divided them, for purposes of the cook's 
 convenience, into methods of treating hot meat and 
 cold. We are only too apt to become stale and 
 monotonous in our repetition, month by month and 
 year by year, of certain too-familiar joints and 
 rechauffes. But anything which can obUterate the 
 memory of the horrid word " hash," should be as 
 desirable as it is rare. Where stews are concerned 
 (whether of fresh or cooked meat), I would like to 
 remind the reader that anything baked iq earthen- 
 ware is infinitely better cooked and better flavoured 
 than it can ever be in a metal vessel. The earthen- 
 ware retains and imparts heat and flavour in a most 
 marvellous manner. And indeed, speaking gener- 
 ally, I would say, steer clear of metal whenever and 
 wherever you can, making use of wood and earthen- 
 ware alone. Also, it is to be observed, that care- 
 ful basting (too frequently ignored) is an essential 
 point, not only in the cooking, but in the appearance 
 of any baked or roasted meat. 
 1 
 
2 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 FRESH MEAT 
 
 1. BEEF COLLOP MINCED (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Chop two pounds of beef very fine, taking from 
 it every particle of fat and string ; put an onion 
 shred small into a stewpan with pepper and salt 
 and a piece of butter. Let them boil about a minute ; 
 put in the meat and move it about with a 
 spoon till it looks a little white ; then add a little 
 good gravy and spice to your taste. Let it come 
 to a boil, when it will be quite done enough. 
 
 2. GALANTINE OF BEEF (Hertfordshire) 
 Mince a quarter of a pound of beef and half a 
 pound of bacon. Put both in a basin with six 
 ounces of breadcrumbs, and pepper and salt. Beat 
 two eggs and a gill of stock together and add to 
 the other ingredients, and mix all well. Shape 
 this into a nice roU, tie in a buttered pudding cloth, 
 and boil for two hours ; turn out, let it set, and 
 glaze it. 
 
 3. ROLLED BEEF (Hertfordshire) 
 A pound and a half of steak or gravy beef, 
 four ounces of breadcrumbs, an ounce and a haK 
 of chopped suet, one egg, seasoning to taste of 
 parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper. The meat should 
 be in one piece, and about half an inch thick. Put 
 the meat on a board and flatten it with a roUing- 
 pin. Mix all the dry ingredients after having 
 chopped the parsley finely. Then add the beaten 
 egg, or, if you wish to be very economical, a little 
 milk. Spread the forcemeat over the beef, roll up. 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 3 
 
 and tie into shape with tape or string. Put into a 
 deep pie-dish. Pour over it three-quarters of a pint 
 of boiling water, cover and stew in a slow oven for 
 one and a half or two hours. Take out the meat, and 
 put it on a dish. Mix smooth a tablespoonful of flour 
 with cold water, add this to the gravy, place in a 
 saucepan, and stir over the fire till the gravy is 
 thick. Colour it with a little browning, pour over 
 the meat, and serve. 
 
 4. BEEF KIDNEYS A LA RUSSE (Hertfordshire) 
 Soak some beef kidney in cold water for an hour, 
 change the water once or twice as it colours. Then 
 set it in a saucepan, cover it with cold water and 
 bring to the boil ; draia off the water and add more, 
 then simmer the kidney gently for fifteen minutes. 
 Pour off the liquor and cut out the sinew, etc., from 
 the kidney. Slice the meat thinly, dredge with 
 seasoned flour, and fry in hot butter until brown. 
 Take out the meat, stir in a tablespoonful of flour in 
 the butter and brown thoroughly ; add a tablespoon- 
 ful of tomato juice, and a little lemon juice, pepper 
 and salt, and sufficient gravy to make enough 
 sauce to cover the kidney. Place the meat in the 
 sauce and cook all slowly for one hour, adding some 
 gravy if necessary. Serve with fried croutons of 
 bread, and tiny rolls of fried bacon. 
 
 5. BEEF OLIVES (Cheshire) 
 Take one and a half pounds of beef (steak for 
 preference) and cut it into pieces four inches long, 
 about the same in width, and half an inch thick. 
 Mince up the trimmings and odds and ends of the 
 beef, along with two ounces of suet, and one tea- 
 
4 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 spoonful each of parsley, thyme, and marjoram. 
 Add three ounces of breadcrumbs, a grated lemon- 
 rind, a little grated nutmeg, one beaten egg, and 
 a pint of brown gravy, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a little pepper. When these ingredients are 
 thoroughly united, beat out each piece of beef as 
 flat as possible, and spread each piece with the 
 above mixture : roll it up and tie it tightly. Place 
 the rolls in a stew-pan with one pint seasoned brown 
 gravy, and stew gently for three-quarters of an 
 hour. Dish with a border of mashed potato or 
 rice, and pour gravy round the ohves. 
 
 6. FOR SPICED BEEF (Lancashire) 
 (This is a very good and old recipe) 
 To one gallon of boiling water add as much salt 
 as will swim an egg, half an ounce saltpetre, half 
 an ounce salt prunelle, half an ounce mustard seed, 
 ditto of cloves, cayenne pods, ciimamon, mace ; 
 one ounce of ginger, haK a pound of sugar (Deme- 
 rara) ; all to be boiled together. The spices to be 
 boiled in the water, and then the salt and sugar to be 
 added when cold. The meat to be put in this pickle 
 for several weeks. Keep turning. Silver side of 
 beef or any part of round. 
 
 7. STEWED RUMP OF BEEF (Eighteenth Centiuy) 
 
 Half roast your beef, then put it in a large sauce- 
 pan or cauldron, with two quarts of water, and one 
 of red wine, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, 
 a spoonful of lemon pickle, two of walnut ketchup, 
 the same of browning, cayenne pepper and salt to 
 your taste ; let it stew over a gentle fire, close covered 
 for two hours ; then take up your beef, and lay it on 
 
BEEP AKD MUTTON RECIPES 5 
 
 a deep dish, skim off the fat, and strain the gravy, 
 and put in haM a pint of mushrooms ; t'Jcken your 
 gravy, and pour it over your beef, lay round it 
 forcemeat balls : garnish with horse radish, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 8. BROILED BEEF STEAKS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut your steaks off a rump of beef about half an 
 inch thick, let your fire be clear, rub your gridiron 
 well with beef suet, when it is hot lay them on ; let 
 them broil until they begin to brown, turn them, 
 and, when the other side is brown, lay them on a 
 hot dish, with a slice of butter betwixt every steak ; 
 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, let them 
 stand two or three minutes, then slice a shalot as 
 thin as possible into a tablespoonful of water ; lay 
 on your steaks again, keep turning them till they are 
 done enough, put them on your dish, pour the shalot 
 and water amongst them, and send them to the 
 table. 
 
 9. TO DRESS BEEF STEAKS THE COMMON WAY 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Pry your steaks in butter a good brown, then 
 put in half a pint of water, an onion sliced, a spoon- 
 ful of walnut ketchup, a little caper liquor, pepper 
 and salt, cover them close with a dish and let them 
 stew gently ; when they are done enough, thicken 
 the gravy with flour and butter, and serve them up. 
 
 10. MADRAS STEAK (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Procure a good beef steak, dip it in flour, and 
 place it in a baking tin, letting it lie flat, placing on 
 
6 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 the top slices of onions ; put greased paper over. 
 Put in an oven and cook for twenty minutes ; mix 
 together a teaspoonful of curry powder, a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar in a cup of hot water, and add 
 it to beef ; replace the lid and let stew gently for an 
 hour and a haK ; serve very hot with onion on top 
 and gravy poured round. 
 
 11. STEWED STEAK (Sussex) 
 
 Fry first with one shalot, then put it into a pan, 
 with a little good gravy, a teaspoonful of made 
 mustard, a very Httle cayenne pepper, and a little 
 salt. Cover closely and let it cook gently for two 
 and a half hours. Then add a httle browning, a 
 little mushroom ketchup — or any other sauce — ladle 
 the gravy over it and turn it once. 
 
 12. BRAZILIAN STEW (Sussex) 
 
 Take one pound of shin of beef, cut it into dice, 
 dip the pieces into about two tablespoonfuls of 
 vinegar. Stick one clove in an onion, take one 
 carrot, one strip of celery, and add half a pint of 
 water. Put the whole in a jar and cook slowly in 
 a cool oven, or stand the jar in a saucepan of water. 
 
 13. FRENCH STEW (Surrey) 
 
 Cut into pieces two or three pounds of the lean 
 of fresh, tender beef, veal, or pork ; peel and shce 
 a quarter of a peck of ripe tomatoes : season the 
 whole with a httle pepper and salt. Put all into a 
 stewpot, and cover it close, opening it only occa- 
 sionally to see how it is cooking. Put no water to 
 the stew, the tomato-juice is enough liquid. When 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 7 
 
 the tomatoes are all dissolved, stir in a piece of 
 fresh butter dredged with flour, and the stew re- 
 mains about a quarter of an hour longer. When the 
 meat is done through, have ready some bits of very- 
 dry toast, cut in three-corner shape, having the 
 crust off. Dip the toast for a moment in some 
 hot water, butter it, and stand it up round the 
 inside of a deep dish. Fill in the stew and serve hot. 
 
 14. LANCASTER STEW (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Fry two large onions light brown ; mix a table- 
 spoon of flour and fry it ; add a quart of thin stock 
 or water, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cut two 
 pounds of gravy beef or skirting into pieces, add 
 them, let simmer for three hours ; an hour before 
 serving drop in some savoury balls, made with half 
 a pound of flour, teaspoonful of baking powder, the 
 same of salt, half of pepper, parsley, thyme, half an 
 onion chopped, three tablespoonfuls of suet, mixed 
 with water. Dish the meat in centre with balls 
 around. 
 
 15. BOILED TONGUE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 If your tongue be a dry one, steep it in water aU 
 night, then boil it three hours ; if you would have it 
 to eat hot, stick it with cloves, rub it over with the 
 yolk of an egg, strew over it bread crumbs, baste 
 it with butter, set it before the fire till it is a light 
 brown ; when you dish it up, pour a little brown 
 gravy, or red wine sauce, mixed the same way as 
 for venison ; lay shces of currant jeUy round it. 
 N.B. — If it be a pickled one, only wash the water 
 out of it. 
 
8 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 16. CORNISH PASTY (West-country) 
 Into half a pound of flour rub three ounces of lard 
 or dripping, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Slice up 
 finely about half a pound of uncooked potatoes, about 
 half a pound of tender beefsteak cut into small 
 pieces about two inches in length : add about two 
 ounces of chopped onions. Make a paste with the 
 flour and dripping, roll to about three-quarters of 
 an inch thick, and cut it the size and shape of a 
 dinner-plate. Lay the potatoes and meat on one 
 half, and fold over the other half as for a jam 
 "turn-over," moistening the edges with a httle 
 water, and pinch them in all round. Bake in a 
 moderate oven from half to three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 17. MOCK GAME (Warwickshire) 
 Required : beef steak, rashers of bacon, red currant 
 jelly, lemon, vinegar, salt. Cut steak into strips, 
 roll up each strip with a slice of bacon inside, tie 
 each roll. Fry these lightly, put rolls into a sauce- 
 pan containing one tablespoonful of vinegar, one 
 teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, two tablespoonfuls 
 of red currant jelly, three or four pepper-corns, 
 and cloves and salt to taste. Stew until tender, 
 place the rolls on a hot dish, thicken the liquid, 
 add some good stock, pour this over the steak and 
 serve, garnished with toast sippets and red currant 
 jelly and parsley. 
 
 18. STEWED OX TAILS (Devonshire) 
 Cut two ox-tails into joints and fry them in 
 butter. Place them in a quart of cold water, with 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 9 
 
 a little onion, cloves, mace, lemon-peel, one table- 
 spoonful of lemon-juice, and three sprigs of parsley ; 
 let all simmer gently for three hours, then take the 
 tails out and thicken the gravy with two or three 
 tablespoonfuls of flour. Strain it through a sieve, 
 season with pepper and salt ; place the tails in the 
 gravy, and gently simmer for one hour more. Dish 
 and serve with chopped parsley and toast. 
 
 19. TRIPE (Stirrey) 
 Take two pounds of fresh tripe, well cleaned and 
 dressed. Cut the coarse fat away, and boil it for 
 about half an hour in equal parts of mUk and water. 
 The water should have been on the fire for half an 
 hour previously, with four large, sliced (English) 
 onions in. When the tripe is cooked, make the 
 liquid into a rich onion sauce, and serve it very 
 hot over the tripe. 
 
 20. CURRIED TRIPE (Hertfordshire) 
 Take two or three large onions, and fry them in 
 dripping tUl tender. Chop them very fine, or, if 
 preferred, pass through a sieve, and put them with 
 a dessertspoonful of curry powder and peaflour 
 mixed. When quite smooth, add gradually one 
 pint of stock, and stir till it boUs. Now take 
 one and a half pounds of boiled tripe, cut 
 it into pieces about one inch square, and put it 
 into the sauce. Let all stew together for one and 
 a half hours. Have ready some well boUed rice, 
 make a ball of it on the dish, pour the tripe into 
 the centre and serve. Squeeze a little lemon juice 
 over the whole. This dish is both economical and 
 nutritious. 
 
10 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 21. FRICASSEE OF TRIPE (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 I 
 Take the whitest seam tripes you can get, and cut 
 them in long pieces, put them into a steAvpan with 
 a little good gravy, a few breadcrumbs, a lump of 
 butter, a little vinegar to your taste, and a little 
 mustard if you like it. Shake it up all together with 
 a little shredded parsley ; let it stew slowly till done. 
 Garnish your dish with sippets. 
 
 22. ANOTHER WAY 
 II 
 
 Take the whitest and thickest seam tripe, cut the 
 white part in thin slices, put it into a stewpan with a 
 little white gravy, lemon-juice, shredded lemon-peel, 
 and a tablespoonful of white wine. Take the yolks 
 of two or three eggs and beat them very well ; put 
 to them a little thick cream, shredded parsley, and 
 two or three (minced) chives if you have any. Shake 
 it all together over the fire till it be as thick as cream, 
 but don't let it boil for fear it curdle. Garnish with 
 sippets, sHced lemon, or mushrooms. This will eat 
 like chicken. 
 
 MUTTON 
 
 23. BASQUE OF MUTTON (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take the caul of a leg of veal, lay it in a copper 
 dish the size of a small punch bowl, take the lean of 
 a leg of mutton that has been kept a week, chop 
 it exceedingly small, take half its weight in beef 
 marrow, the crumbs of a penny loaf, the yolks of 
 four eggs, half a pint of red wine, the rind of 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 11 
 
 haK a lemon grated ; mix it like sausage meat, 
 and lay it in your caul in the inside of your dish, 
 close up the caul, and bake it ia a quick oven; 
 when it comes out, lay your dish upside down, and 
 turn the whole out ; pour over it brown gravy and 
 send it up with venison sauce in a boat. Garnish 
 with pickles. 
 
 24. ROLLED BREAST OF MUTTON (Hertfordshire) 
 Take a breast of mutton, lay it on a board, and 
 remove the bones. Trim it neatly, and remove some 
 of the fat. Cover the side from which the bones 
 have been removed with slices of ham, and then 
 with a layer of meat stuffing, which has a flavouring 
 of lemon grated. Quarter some pickled walnuts, 
 and place them here and there on the forcemeat. 
 Now roll the meat neatly and tightly, screwing 
 the flap over. Bind it round with tape and roast 
 it. The meat should be wrapped in caul or greased 
 paper for the first hour it is in the roaster, and after- 
 wards basted in the ordinary way. Place the 
 mutton on a hot dish, remove the tape, and make 
 a little good gravy. Strain it well, and stir it into 
 a tablespoonful of red currant jelly, and pour it 
 over and round the meat. Then take two table- 
 spoonfuls of hghtly browned breadcrumbs, a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed herbs, a quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of pepper, half a teaspoonful of salt, and mix 
 thoroughly. Sprinkle this over the meat and serve. 
 
 25. THE BEST WAY TO COOK A CHOP (Essex) 
 Place the chop in a colander and pour over it 
 some boiling water. This seals up the tissues and 
 does not allow any nutritious juices to be wasted. 
 
12 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 Now place it on a gridiron over a hot, clear fire, and 
 cook in the usual manner. Turn with a knife, and 
 do not prick in any way. Serve with a small piece 
 of butter and a dust of pepper and salt. 
 
 26. NAPLES CHOPS (Warwickshire) 
 Take as many nice loin chops as you require for 
 a dish ; trim away nearly all the fat, fry them 
 lightly and place in a stewpan, dredging them 
 quickly with browned flour. Cut in slices two or three 
 large onions, season highly with black pepper, and 
 fry to a golden brown ; scatter the onions over the 
 chops, and pour in enough stock or water just to 
 cover the meat. Have a pint of chestnuts boiled 
 and peeled, lay them on the onions, place a cover 
 on the stewpan, and cook the contents slowly for 
 two hours. The onions and chestnuts will be cooked 
 by the time the meat is tender. 
 
 27. DEVILLED CUTLETS (Essex) 
 One and a half pounds of nicely trimmed cutlets, 
 two ounces of butter, quarter of a pint of cream, 
 one teaspoonful of cornflour, one small teaspoonful 
 of mustard, a good pinch of cayenne, two dessert- 
 spoonfuls of Worcester sauce. Melt the butter in 
 a frying pan, lay in the cutlets, which should be 
 smartly trimmed, and fry hghtly till cooked. Take 
 up the cutlets on a plate and keep hot. Put the 
 cornflour, mustard, and cayenne into a basin, mix 
 in the Worcester sauce gradually until smooth. Put 
 the frying pan on the fire again, with the butter still 
 in it in which the cutlets were fried. Add the 
 cream and stir well together. Let it boil up ; now 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON EECIPES 13 
 
 put in the Worcester sauce mixture. Stir well 
 until it boils up and is quite smooth. Lay in the 
 cutlets and let them stand at the side of the fire 
 for two or three minutes until very hot through. 
 Dish in two rows and pour the sauce over. If it be 
 too thick before dishing, half a cup of milk with a 
 small scrap of butter may be stirred in to thin it. 
 
 28. HAGGIS (Scotland) 
 
 Having washed a sheep's heart and hghts, parboil 
 and mince them small, with a pound of suet and 
 two large onions : add rather less than two handfuls 
 of oatmeal, and season thoroughly with pepper 
 and salt : mix all these articles well together, sew 
 them up tightly in a bag, and boil for about three 
 hours : serve with some good gravy, seasoned and 
 thickened, or with sharp sauce. This is a cheap, 
 but not a very dehcate dish. 
 
 29. A HARICOT OF MUTTON OR LAMB 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut a neck or loin of mutton or lamb in nice cut- 
 lets, and fry them a hght brown ; have ready some 
 very good gravy made of the scrag of the mutton 
 and some veal, with a piece of lean bacon and a few 
 ' capers ; season to your taste with pepper, salt, thyme, 
 onions, which must be strained off, and added to 
 the cutlets, just an hour before you send them to 
 the table. Cook them on a slow fire, dish them up 
 handsomely with turnips and carrots cut in small 
 dice, with a good deal of gravy, thickened with a 
 piece of butter roUed in flour ; if they are not tender 
 they will not be good. Send them up very hot. 
 
14 BEEF AND MUTTON EECIPES 
 
 30. ANOTHER WAY 
 Take a neck of mutton and cut it into chops, 
 flour them and put them into a stewpan, set them 
 over the fire, and keep turning them till brown, 
 then take them out, and put a little water into the 
 same pan, and keep it stirring until brown over the 
 fire, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, an 
 onion, and what other spice you please ; boil them 
 weU together, and then strain the broth through a 
 sieve into an earthen pot by itself, and skim the 
 fat off, which done, it is good gravy ; then add 
 turnips and carrots, with two smaU onions, a little 
 celery and other roots, then put the gravy to them, 
 and as much water as wDl cover them ; keep it 
 over a gentle fire till ready to serve up. 
 
 31. HARICOT OF A LEG OF MUTTON 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut the best end of a leg of mutton into chops ia 
 single ribs, flatten them, and fry a light brown ; then 
 put them in a large saucepan, with two quarts of 
 water, a large carrot cut in slices, cut at the edge 
 like wheels ; when they have stewed for a quarter 
 of an hour, put in two turnips cut in square shoes, 
 the white part of a head of celery, two heads of 
 cabbage lettuces fried, and cayenne to your taste ; 
 boU them aU together till they are tender. The 
 gravy is not to be thickened. Put into a tureen or 
 soup dish. 
 
 32. HARICOT MUTTON (Yorkshire) 
 Two pounds of best end neck of mutton, one pint 
 of warm water or stock, one ounce of dripping, 
 one carrot, one turnip, one onion, half a table- 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 15 
 
 spoonful flour, salt, and pepper. Cut the meat into 
 small joints, remove all gristle and most of the fat, 
 make the dripping quite hot and fry the meat 
 quickly in it, and then place in another pan. Fry 
 the sliced onion, add to the meat also the carrot 
 and turnip cut in small squares. Simmer gently 
 one and a haK to two hours, skim off any fat. Mix 
 the flour with a little cold water, stir into the gravy, 
 allow it to boU for a few minutes — then serve. 
 
 33. POTTED HEAD (Scotland) 
 Take half a sheep's head, removing the brains ; 
 wash the head thoroughly and soak it for an hour 
 or two in warm water ; then break it up and lay it 
 in a pan with just sufficient water to cover it well ; 
 bring to the boil, skim well, and simmer steadily, 
 closely covered, till the bones will slip from the 
 flesh. Now lift the meat out, remove the bones, cut 
 into dice, seasoning it as you do so with the follow- 
 ing mixture : two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of 
 freshly ground black pepper, one of powdered all- 
 spice, and if liked, a saltspoonful of cayenne. 
 Return the meat to the pan, allow it to simmer 
 uncovered for a few minutes, then pour it, with its 
 liquor strained, into a wetted basin or mould, put- 
 ting in with it the tongue, which should have been 
 cooked separately, and leave till set. If liked, the 
 liquor may be sharply boiled up to reduce it while 
 the meat is being cut up. 
 
 34 HODGE PODGE OF MUTTON 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut a neck or loin of mutton into steaks (i.e. 
 chops or cutlets), take off all the fat, then put the 
 
16 BEEF AND MUTTON EECIPES 
 
 steaks into a pitcher or jar, with lettuce, turnips, 
 carrots, two cucumbers cut ia quarters, four or five 
 onions, and pepper and salt ; you must not put any 
 water to it; stop the pitcher very close, then set 
 it in a pan of boiling water ; let it boil four hours. 
 Keep the pan supplied with fresh boiling water 
 as it wastes. 
 
 36. HODGE PODGE (Kent, 1809) 
 Take a quantity of shelled green peas, with onions, 
 carrots, and turnips, and a sprinkling of salt and 
 pepper. Put them into a pot with a lid, with a 
 quantity of water corresponding to the quantity of 
 soup wanted, containing a few mutton or lamb 
 chops. Let the mess boil slowly, or simmer for 
 five or six hours. 
 
 36. HOT-POT (Essex) 
 This should be made in a round deep pie-dish. 
 Take two pounds of mutton chops, four sheep's 
 kidneys, and one pound or more of peeled potatoes. 
 Place alternate layers of the shced potatoes, chops, 
 and kidneys, with shced onions, pepper, and salt, 
 till the dish is full. If hked, oysters and anchovies 
 may be added, and are a great improvement to the 
 flavour of the hot-pot. Cover the top of the dish 
 with whole potatoes, and pour over it a little water 
 for gravy. Bake in a moderate oven for full three 
 hours, and let the potatoes on the top be nicely 
 browned. Fasten a serviette round the dish and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 37. KIDNEYS ON TOAST (Cheshire) 
 Mince up some mutton kidneys very fine ; season 
 with salt, pepper, and grated lemon-peel. Place 
 
•BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 17 
 
 in a saucepan and toss the mixture in a little butter 
 until very hot, then beat up an egg, stir well into 
 the kidneys, and serve on thin slices of toast. 
 
 38. LAMBS' TAIL PIE (Kent) 
 This is a very old Kentish pie. In spring, when 
 the lambs' tails are cut, these are collected. About 
 half the tail, the thicker end, is used. It is flayed 
 and jointed : generally about two dozen tails are 
 used in making an ordinary-sized pie. Of course 
 the crust is made in the usual way. 
 
 (I have been told that the soft bones in the tails 
 when cooked are like gelatine.) 
 
 39. FORCED LEG OF MUTTON (Eighteenth Century) 
 Raise the skin and take out the lean part of the 
 mutton, chop it exceedingly fine, shred a bundle of 
 sweet herbs, grate a penny loaf, and half a lemon, take 
 nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, make them into a 
 forcemeat, but leave the bone and shank in their 
 places, and it wiU appear like a whole leg ; lay it on 
 an earthen dish, with a pint of red wine under it, and 
 send it to the oven ; it will take two hours and a 
 half ; when it comes out, take off aU the fat, strain 
 the gravy over the mutton, lay round it hard yolks 
 of eggs, and pickled mushrooms. Garnish with 
 pickles and serve up. 
 
 40. NAVARINE OF MUTTON (Hertfordshire) 
 Take three pounds of neck or breast of mutton, 
 trim it in neat pieces, sprinkle with flour, and fry 
 in three ounces of butter ; pour off the liquid fat, 
 and add a pint and a half of water, eight button 
 onions previously fried, three sprigs of parsley, six 
 2 
 
18 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 small turnips cut into olive shapes, a tablespoonful 
 of tomato sauce, pepper, salt ; gradually bring to 
 boiling point and take off the scum ; gently simmer 
 an hour and a half. Pile on a dish with the vegetables 
 round. 
 
 41. MUTTON OLIVES (Hertfordshire) 
 Take as many slices of cold mutton as required, 
 have ready some good veal forcemeat, put a piece on 
 one end of the mutton, roll it up securely, and tie 
 with cotton. Place the rolls in a baking dish, pour 
 good gravy over, cover tin with greased paper, and 
 cook for half an hour ; serve with mashed potatoes 
 and red currant jelly. 
 
 42. MUTTON PATTIES WITH FINE HERBS 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take part of the fillet from a loin or neck of 
 mutton, and cut it in dice, with half the quantity 
 of calves' udder, previously dressed. Put two 
 ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a chopped 
 shalot, parsley, six chopped mushrooms, salt, and 
 pepper : let that heat over the fire a few minutes. 
 Then mix the meat with it, and set the whole to cool. 
 Line a dozen or more patty-pans with puff-paste ; 
 fill them with the meat, and put on the cover, from 
 the centre of which cut out a small piece the size 
 of a wafer. Pinch the borders all round. Egg the 
 patties, cut out another cover, with a still smaller 
 hole : place this hghtly on the top : egg and bake 
 them. When done, take them from the moulds, 
 and fill them with an Italian sauce. Dish on a 
 napkin and serve. 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON EECIPES 19 
 
 43. TO MAKE FRENCH STEAKS OF NECK OF 
 
 MUTTON (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Let your mutton be very good and large, and cut 
 off most part of the fat of the neck ; then cut the 
 steaks two inches thick, make a large hole through 
 the middle of the fleshy part of the steak with a 
 penknife, and stuff it with a little nutmeg, pepper, 
 and salt, mixed with the yolk of an egg : when they 
 are stuffed, wrap them in writing-paper, and put 
 them in a Dutch oven ; set them before the fire to 
 broil, they wiU take near an hour ; put a little brown 
 gravy in your dish, and serve them up in the papers. 
 
 44. NECK OF MUTTON TO EAT LIKE VENISON 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut a large neck, before the shoulder is taken off, 
 broader than usual, and the flap of the shoulder with 
 it ; to make it look handsomer, stick your neck all 
 over in little holes with a sharp penknife, and pour 
 a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie in the wine 
 four or five days ; turn and rub it three or four times 
 a day, then take it out, and hang it up for three days 
 in the open air, out of the sun, and dry it often with 
 a cloth, to keep it from musting ; when you roast 
 it, baste it with the wine it was steeped in, if any 
 left ; if not, fresh wine ; put white paper, three or four 
 folds, to keep in the fat; roast it thoroughly, and 
 take off the skin, and baste it nicely ; serve it up. 
 
 45. SHOULDER OF MUTTON SURPRISED 
 (Eighteenth Centtiry) 
 
 Half broil a shoulder, then put it in a tossing 
 pan, with two quarts of veal gravy, four ounces of 
 rice, a teaspoonful of mushroom powder, a little 
 
20 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 beaten mace, and stew it an hour, or till the rice is 
 cooked enough, then take up your mutton and keep 
 it hot ; put to the rice half a pint of good cream, and 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour, shake it well, and 
 boU it a few minutes : garnish with barberries or 
 pickles, and send it up. 
 
 46. RAISED PIES (Yorkshire) 
 Put two pounds of flour on the pasteboard, and 
 put on the fire in a saucepan three-quarters of a 
 pint of water and half a pound of good lard. When 
 the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the 
 flour, pour in the water by degrees, gently mixing 
 the flour with it with a spoon. When it is well 
 mixed, knead it with your hands till it becomes 
 stiff. Dredge a little flour to prevent it sticking to 
 the board, or you cannot make it look smooth. 
 Do not roll with the rolling-pin, but roll it with 
 your hands, about the thickness of a quart-pot : 
 cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers. 
 Put one hand in the middle and keep the other close 
 on the outside, till you have worked it either in an 
 oval or a round shape. Have your meat ready cut 
 and seasoned with pepper and salt : if pork, cut it 
 in small slices, the griskin is the best for pasties. 
 If you use mutton, cut it in very neat cutlets, and 
 put them in the pies as you make them. Roll out 
 the cover with the roUing-pin, just the size of the 
 pie, wet it round the edge, put it on the pie and 
 press together with your thumb and finger, and 
 then cut all round with a pair of scissors quite 
 even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them 
 an hour and a half. 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON EECIPES 21 
 
 47. SQUAB PIE (Devonshire) 
 Take a pie-dish, put at the bottom a layer of 
 sliced apples, strew over them a little sugar, then 
 a layer of fresh mutton (well seasoned with salt and 
 pepper). Then another layer of apples. Peel 
 some onions and slice them, lay them on the apples, 
 then a layer of mutton, then apples and onions. 
 Pour in a pint of water, cover all over with a good 
 crust, and bake. 
 
 48. SQUAB PIE (Kent) 
 Take two pounds of the best end of the neck of 
 mutton, cut it into small pieces, flavour with salt 
 and pepper, and put a layer of it at the bottom of 
 a pie-dish, next add a layer of sliced apples and 
 onions, with about a dessertspoonful of brown sugar, 
 then another layer of mutton. Cover with a good 
 pie-crust, and bake as an ordinary meat pie. 
 
 49. OXFORD JOHN (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a stale leg of mutton, cut it in as thin coUops 
 as you possibly can, taking out all the fat sinews. 
 Season them with mace, pepper, and salt, strew 
 among them a little shred parsley, thyme, and two or 
 three shalots. Put a good lump of butter in a stew- 
 pan ; when it is hot put in all the coUops, keep 
 stirring them with a wooden spoon till they are 
 three parts done, then add half a pint of gravy and 
 a little juice of lemon, thicken it with a little flour 
 and butter, let them simmer four or five minutes and 
 they will be quite done enough. If you let them boil, 
 or have them ready before you want them, they 
 will grow hard. Serve them up hot, with fried 
 bread cut in slices over and around. 
 
22 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 60. BROILED MUTTON STEAKS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut your steaks half an inch thick. When your 
 gridiron is hot, rub it with fresh suet, lay on your 
 steaks, keep turning them as quickly as possible. If 
 you do not take care, the fat that drops from the 
 steaks will smoke them. When they are done 
 enough, put them into a hot dish, rub them well 
 with butter, shce a shalot very thin into a spoonful 
 of water, pour it on them with a spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup and salt ; serve them up hot. 
 
 51. SHEEP'S HEAD (Cheshire) 
 
 Steep two or three hours. SpUt the head ; take 
 out the brains and tongue to boil separately. Boil 
 the head gently for three hours with a carrot, 
 onions, celery, sweet herbs, a few cloves, and pepper 
 and salt ; egg and crumb and brown before the 
 fire. Mince the lights, and serve the liver in sHces, 
 well fried. Boil the brains in muslin, and arrange 
 all together on one dish. 
 
 COLD MEAT 
 
 62. BEEF-CAKES (Cheshire) 
 To each pound of cold roast beef, add a quarter 
 of a pound of ham or bacon. Mince very finely, 
 season with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs : add 
 one or two eggs well whisked. Make into small 
 square cakes about half an inch thick ; fry them 
 in boiling dripping, drain, and serve with good 
 gravy. 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 23 
 
 63. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK (Essex) 
 
 Either slices of cold boiled beef or cold roast beef 
 can be used. Fry the slices of meat gently in a 
 little fat, and arrange them nicely round a centre of 
 fried greens : these should be boiled till tender, 
 well drained, minced, and then placed in a frying 
 pan with a little butter, a finely sliced onion, and 
 seasoned with pepper and salt. When the onion is 
 done, the greens are ready to serve. 
 
 64. CURRY (Kent) 
 
 Fry the meat in plenty of butter or fat, and 
 plenty of onions — but do not let it be fried hard, 
 then put it in a saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry-powder, some cayenne, a little vinegar, a 
 little milk, some butter about the size of an egg, 
 and thicken it with flour. Let it stew gently for 
 several hours. This is very good. 
 
 55. HUNTERS' PIE (Kent) 
 
 Have a deep dish, and mince up very fine some 
 underdone beef or mutton — a little fat must be put 
 with it, but no skin, nor anything not to be eaten ; 
 fill the dish three-parts full. Put some good stock 
 made from bones and also any gravy from the beef 
 that is to be had — season with pepper, salt, and a 
 tablespoonful of ketchup. Put this into the oven 
 to get warm, and then lay over a nice thick crust of 
 moist mashed potatoes, or else finely grated bread- 
 crumbs, and put little bits of butter on the top 
 here and there. Bake slowly for an hour. 
 
24 BEEF AJSTD MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 56. SOUFFLE OF LAMB (Essex) 
 Half a pound of cold cooked mutton or lamb, 
 one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, half a pint 
 of stock, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one 
 tablespoonful of tomato sauce, two eggs. Trim 
 away all skin, fat, and gristle, and pass the meat 
 twice through a mincer to mince it finely. Melt the 
 butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour smoothly, 
 add the stock, and stir until it boils. Put in the 
 meat, parsley, tomato sauce, and season to taste. 
 Take off the fire, and let it cool a little. Thoroughly 
 stir in the yolks of eggs, and Kghtly stir the stiffly 
 whipped white of egg through the mixture. Put 
 into a buttered pie dish, or else divide the mixture 
 into buttered pattypans. Shake a few crumbs over 
 the top, and bake in the oven for ten to fifteen 
 minutes. Serve at once. 
 
 67. MACARONI WITH MEAT (Essex) 
 
 Throw the macaroni in boiling water, and when 
 it is soft strain it and put it into a pan with butter, 
 turning it all the time, and not allowing it to get 
 brown. Have ready some finely chopped onions 
 and meat well seasoned and browned, then place a 
 layer of macaroni and a layer of parmesan and a 
 layer of minced meat till the tray or dish is full. 
 Well beat up four eggs and add to the other ingre- 
 dients. Make a sauce by placing a lump of butter 
 on the fire and throwing a spoonful of flour over it, 
 and then adding gradually a pint of milk. Pour this 
 sauce over the macaroni, not forgetting to mix 
 with it pepper and salt, nutmeg and cinnamon. 
 Bake it in a dish that can come to table. It will 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 25 
 
 take about forty minutes, and must not be too 
 brown, or it will be hard. Before sending it to table, 
 out the mixture into diamonds about two inches 
 long. 
 
 68. MEAT CAKE (Sussex) 
 Mince half a pound of cold underdone meat, add 
 two ounces of breadcrumbs, and the same of cooked 
 rice — or macaroni cut small. Beat an egg into a 
 cupful of gravy mixed with half an ounce of flour. 
 Add salt, pepper, fried onions, a teaspoonful of celery 
 sauce, a few tinned mushrooms, or anchovy sauce, 
 or mixed pickles. Grease a cake tin, coat it well 
 with bread crumbs, pack in close, cover with bread 
 crumbs, and bake about an hour. 
 
 69. MEAT SALADS (Essex) 
 Any small scraps of meat or poultry, etc., should 
 be cut up neatly and mixed with some cold cooked 
 vegetables or salad ; place this mixture in small 
 shells or cases, cover with mayonnaise sauce, and 
 garnish with strips of boned and filleted anchovies. 
 
 60. SCALLOPED MEAT (Hertfordshire) 
 Take any remains of cold meat or sausages, mince 
 all together, butter a flat dish, sprinkle it thickly 
 with brown-bread crumbs ; lay the meat over them, 
 and cover with crumbs ; put pieces of butter over 
 it, and brown in the oven. 
 
 61. COLD MEAT STEW (Sussex) 
 Two pounds of cold meat in slices, one teaspoon- 
 ful of red currant jelly, one mustard-spoonful of 
 
26 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 made mustard, one tablespoonful of ketchup, one 
 dessertspoonful Worcester sauce, one small dessert- 
 spoonful Harvey's, one glass of claret, to be all 
 stewed together with some good stock, the meat put 
 in, and all mixed well, and served very hot. 
 
 62. MUTTON OLIVES (Devonshire) 
 Required : Slices of cold roast mutton, veal stuff- 
 ing, mashed potatoes, gravy. Take sUces of mutton, 
 trim neatly ; dust one side of each with pepper, salt, 
 and a little allspice. Put a small piece of stuffing 
 on each and roll up, tying firmly with cotton. Place 
 the rolls in a baking tin, pour some good gravy 
 over, cover with greased paper, bake for half an 
 hour. Make a mound of mashed potatoes on a 
 dish, arrange the olives round, thicken the gravy 
 and pour round. 
 
 63. PILATF (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take three ounces of Patna rice, and pour over it 
 half a pint of water and a tablespoonful of tomato 
 puree ; season to taste. Melt a piece of butter the 
 size of an egg, stir in the rice gradually, and 
 place on the stove to simmer for fifteen minutes ; 
 cut up any cold meat in squares, fry them lightly 
 in. butter, put into a saucepan with a spoonful of 
 tomato puree, and simmer for three hours. Place the 
 rice in the centre of the dish and the meat round it. 
 
 64. POTATO PIE (Derbyshire) 
 Put layers of meat, either cooked or uncooked, 
 with alternate layers of potato and onion uncooked, 
 in a deep bowl ; season with plenty of pepper and 
 
BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 27 
 
 salt ; and fill up with water. Cover the whole with 
 a good short crust, and bake in a slow oven. This 
 is a very nice winter dish, and is much improved by 
 adding oysters between the meat and vegetables. 
 
 65. FORCEMEAT FOR PATTIES (Cheshire) 
 Shred, or very finely mince, a little ham, cold 
 veal, or fowl, beef-suet, and a Kttle onion, parsley, 
 and lemon-peel. Add salt, nutmeg, pepper, mace, 
 and breadcrumbs. (The respective quantities of 
 all these will depend upon your requirements, your 
 discretion, and the material in hand.) Pound all 
 well together, add a little finely chopped thyme or 
 marjoram, bind with a well-beaten egg, or two 
 eggs if necessary. 
 
 66. FORCEMEAT FOR PIES (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take one and a half pounds of wild rabbits' flesh, 
 and two pounds four ounces of fat bacon ; chop the 
 whole, and pound it, with half an ounce herbaceous 
 mixture, a Uttle salt, an egg, and two extra yolks. 
 
 67. OBSERVATIONS ON MADE DISHES, ETC. 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Be careful the tossing-pan is well tinned, quite 
 clean, and not gritty, and put every ingredient into 
 your white sauce, and have it of a proper thick- 
 ness and well boiled before you put in eggs and 
 cream, for they wiU not add much to the thickness. 
 Do not stir them with a spoon after they are in, nor 
 set your pan on the fire, for the stuff will gather at 
 the bottom, and be in lumps, but hold your pan a 
 good height from the fire, and keep shaking the pan 
 round one way, it will keep the sauce from curdling, 
 
28 BEEF AND MUTTON RECIPES 
 
 and be sure you do not let it boil. It is the best way 
 to take up your meat, coUops, or hash, or any other 
 kind of dish you are making, with a fish slice, and 
 strain your sauce upon it ; for it is almost impossible 
 to prevent little bits of meat from mixing with the 
 sauce. By this method the sauce wiU look clear. 
 
 In the brown made dishes, take special care no fat is 
 on the top of the gravy, but skim it clean off, that 
 it may be of a fine brown, and taste of no one thing in 
 particular. If you use any wine, put it in some time 
 before your dish is ready, to take off the rawness, 
 for nothing can give a made dish a more disagreeable 
 taste than raw wine or fresh anchovy. When you 
 use fried forcemeat balls, put them on a sieve to 
 drain the fat from them, and never let them boil iu 
 your sauce, or it wiU give it a greasy look, and soften 
 the balls ; the best way is to put them in after your 
 meat is dished up. 
 
CHAPTER n 
 
 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 Note. — These are mainly occupied with that most 
 useful subject, cold meat cookery. Both pork and 
 veal, unless carefully prepared, are apt to be even 
 less digestible the second day of their appearance 
 than the first. By skilful treatment, however, and 
 a little extra trouble, they may be rechauffes in 
 most attractive and innocuous ways. Those who 
 are fortunate enough to possess their own pigs are 
 acquainted with that vast variety of dishes which 
 accrues upon the preparation of pork, etc., and to 
 those I hardly need offer any reminder. As to the 
 pigless person, he or she is 'prima facie debarred 
 from the enjoyment of " lardy cake " and other 
 such savoury foods. So I do not set down recipes 
 for these : in either case they would be needless. 
 The German " Roast Pork in Vinegar " and the 
 Lancashire " Veal Cake " should specially be singled 
 out for trial, but all the recipes are good. 
 
 PORK 
 
 68. BACON AND EGG PIE TO EAT COLD 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Steep a few thin slices of bacon in water to take 
 out the salt, lay your bacon in the dish, beat eight 
 
 29 
 
30 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 eggs with a pint of thick cream, put in it a little 
 pepper and salt, and pour it on the bacon, lay over 
 it a good cold paste, bake it in a moderate oven a 
 day before you want it. 
 
 69. TO MAKE BRAWN (Surrey) 
 Having divided the head down the middle, re- 
 move the brains, and cut off the ears, then let the 
 head lie in cold water for twelve hours : boil it 
 until the bones can be readily taken out, and when 
 done, take off the skin as entire as possible : while 
 the meat and the tongue are hot, chop them rather 
 fine, and season with pepper, salt, a httle nutmeg, 
 two or three cloves, and some cayenne : then place 
 part of the skin at the bottom of a pan, lay on it 
 the chopped meat, and put the rest of the skin over 
 the top, place it mider a heavy weight, and let it 
 remain until quite cold ; part of the hquor in which 
 the head has been dressed must be boiled up with 
 vinegar and salt, and thrown over the head. It is 
 eaten with vinegar and mustard. (A little brown 
 sugar added to these is an improvement. Ed). 
 
 70. BRAWN (Essex) 
 Procure a pig's head which has been in salt not 
 more than three or four days, wash it and put it on 
 in sufficient water to cover it well. Let it cook 
 gently for about three hours, until quite tender, 
 then take it out, remove the bones (which should 
 come away easily) and cut up all the meat in small 
 pieces, putting it into a basin, which should be 
 kept hot over boiling water, or the brawn will set 
 too soon. Season with pepper (no salt) and a little 
 powdered mace and sage if liked ; put into a press- 
 
PORK AND VEAL EECIPES 31 
 
 ing tin if one is at hand, and pour over the meat 
 about half a pint of the liquor in which it has 
 boiled. If a brawn tin is not to be had, use an 
 ordinary large cake tiu, put a plate closely fitting 
 on top, and set on that the heaviest weights you 
 have — either scale-weights or flat-irons. 
 
 71. BRAWN (Staffordshire) 
 Take half a pig's head, with the tongue and two 
 feet. Rub it all with salt and pepper and let it he a 
 few days, rubbing well and turning every day. Then 
 boil very gently until the meat comes easily off the 
 bones. Take it out of the saucepan, put it on a 
 board, and cut it all up into rather small pieces, 
 then season with pepper and salt, and press it into 
 a mould or proper brawn tin with holes at the 
 bottom to let the gravy escape, and put a heavy 
 weight on the top. Turn it out when cold, and 
 send to table cold. 
 
 72. TO BOIL A HAM (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Steep your ham all night in water, then boil it. 
 If it be of a middle size it will take three hours 
 boiling, and a small one two hours and a half ; when 
 you take it up, pull off the skin, and smear it all over 
 with beaten egg ; strew on bread crumbs, baste it with 
 butter, set it to the fire till it be a Kght brown ; if 
 it be to eat hot, garnish with carrots and serve it up. 
 
 73. HAM CAKE (Essex) 
 
 Mince finely one and a half pounds of cooked 
 ham ; boil a sHce of bread in half a pint of milk, 
 and mix this with the ham, beating them well 
 together and binding them with a well-beaten 
 
32 PORK AND VEAL EECIPES 
 
 egg. Have ready a wetted mould, pack the mix- 
 ture into this, and bake for an hour in a very hot 
 oven, by which time it should be nicely coloured ; 
 then turn out, and serve either hot or cold. Rabbit 
 or veal may be used in the same way. 
 
 74. MINCED HAM (Isle of Wight) 
 Mix half a pound of cracker crumbs with an equal 
 quantity of finely minced lean boiled ham : moisten 
 this mixture with stock, or water, and butter, add- 
 ing salt to taste. Put the mixture in a baking tin, 
 make depressions in it the size of an egg, and break 
 an egg into each hollow. Bake a delicate brown 
 in a good oven. 
 
 75. PEPPER HAMS (Kent, 1809) 
 
 One pound of bay salt, half a pound of common 
 salt, two ounces of saltpetre and pepper pounded 
 aU together very small ; rub the hams weU all over. 
 Let them lie four days, rubbing them once a day 
 then pour over them a pound of treacle, turn and 
 rub them with the pickle three or four times a week 
 for a month, then lay them in cold water twenty- 
 four hours and hang them up to dry, after which 
 they need not be steeped but put into cold water 
 to boil. For hams from twelve to sixteen pounds 
 each, three hours will be enough to boil them. 
 
 76. TO POT HAM (Ireland) 
 
 From the remains of a cold ham take a pound of 
 
 the lean to half a pound of the fat, or a quarter of 
 
 fat is enough. Mince it very fine, or run it through 
 
 a machine. Add a small teaspoonful of pounded 
 
POEK AKD VEAL RECIPES 33 
 
 mace, a quarter of a nutmeg, and salt, and, if pos- 
 sible a little dry powdered bay leaf. Press this 
 mixture down well in the pot or dish. Bake for 
 about twenty-five minutes, taking care the top 
 does not brown, and cover with melted lard, first 
 pressing the ham. 
 
 77. PIG'S CHEEK COLLARED (Surrey) 
 Lay two pig's cheeks, with the tongue, in a dish, 
 and strew it well over with salt and saltpetre ; let 
 them stand for six days, and then boil them till 
 the bones can be readily separated from the meat. 
 Have ready a long strip of strong linen cloth, on 
 which place the cheek, with the skin outwards, and 
 on it the tongue, seasoning the whole highly with 
 cayenne pepper, cloves, a very Httle mace, and 
 salt ; roll it up firmly and boU it for two hours ; 
 when done, set it under a heavy weight until cold, 
 when the cloth must be removed. A cow-heel may 
 be boUed, boned, and rolled up with it. 
 
 78. PIG'S SHIN AND SAUSAGES (Sussex) 
 Take a pig's shin, spread it all over with sausage- 
 meat, roll up, tie tight, and boil. 
 
 79. PORK CHEESE (French) 
 Take out the bones from a pig's head without 
 cutting the skin, remove the flesh, separate the 
 fat from the lean, and cut the whole in strips ; do 
 the same with the ears, and season the whole with 
 salt, pepper, powdered nutmeg, and other spices, 
 thyme, bay leaves, sage, and parsley, all chopped 
 fine, the grated rind of a lemon, and its juice. Put 
 the skin of the head into a salad bowl, and arrange 
 3 
 
U PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 in it the lean and the fat of the meat in alternate 
 layers, as also two or three pigs' tongues cut up in 
 the same way, with a little of the inner fat of the 
 pig and some sliced truffles, if you have any : when 
 all the meat is used, fold over the skin and sew it 
 up, removing any superfluous part. Put this pre- 
 paration into a stewpan of httle more than its own 
 size, with carrots, sweet herbs, salt, and pepper, 
 and moisten with a Httle white (French) wine ; 
 simmer very gently for six or seven hours ; take it 
 off the fire, and when merely warm put the head 
 into a mould of the shape of a cheese, and so that 
 a part of the head may be above the mould, and 
 put a board over it covered with weights. This 
 cheese is always eaten cold with mustard and 
 vinegar. Pork cheese is also made with the ears 
 and tongues alone, one layer of the ears cut into 
 strips, and one layer of the tongues, seasoned as 
 above, and piled together into a mould, to be 
 pressed down in the same way as the head. The 
 mode of proceeding is altogether the same as for 
 the head, with the exception of enclosing it in a 
 skin. 
 
 80. PORK CHEESE (ItaUan) 
 
 Mince and pound a pig's liver ; do the same, but 
 separately, with a quantity of the inner fat of pork, 
 equal in weight to that of the hver. Mix them 
 together and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 coriander, chopped parsley, thyme, and sage : 
 cover the bottom and line the sides of a tin sauce- 
 pan or shape with thin slices of larding, fill the 
 mould and cover with larding : bake in an oven. 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 35 
 
 When quite cold, dip the mould in boiling water 
 and shake out the cheese. 
 
 81. LEICESTERSHIRE PORK PIE 
 Cut the pork in square pieces, fat and lean, 
 about the size of a cobnut ; season with pepper and 
 salt, and a small quantity of sage and thyme 
 chopped fine, and set it aside in a dish in a cool 
 place. Next make some hot paste, using for this 
 purpose fresh-made, heated hog's lard instead of 
 butter, in the proportion of eight ounces to the 
 pound of flour. These pies must be raised by 
 hand in the following manner : First mould the 
 paste into a round ball upon the slab, then roU it 
 out to the thickness of half-an-inch, and with the 
 back of the right hand indent the centre in a circle, 
 reaching to within three inches of the edge of the 
 paste ; next, gather up the edges all round, press- 
 ing it closely with the fingers and thumbs, so as to 
 give it the form of a purse ; then continue to work 
 upwards until the sides are raised sufficiently high ; 
 the pie should now be placed on a baking sheet, 
 with a round of buttered paper under it, and, after 
 it has been filled with the pork previously prepared 
 for the purpose, covered in with some of the paste 
 in the usual manner. Trim the edges and pinch it 
 round with the pincers, decorate it, egg it over, and 
 bake till done, calculating the time it should remain 
 in the oven according to the quantity of meat it 
 contains. 
 
 82. ROAST PORK IN VINEGAR (German) 
 Take off the shin from your leg of pork, and do 
 not leave too much fat either. Pour some vinegar, 
 
36 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 with cloves and onions, into a large earthen vessel ; 
 rub your pork well with a handful of salt, and place 
 it in the vinegar, where it naust remain three or 
 four days and be frequently turned. If you like 
 you can also stick a few cloves into it. Put your 
 pork in the oven in the same vessel it has laia in, 
 with all the vinegar about it. (This is extremely 
 tasty and delicious. Ed.) 
 
 83. BEOILED PORK STEAKS (Eighteenth Century) 
 Observe the same directions as for mutton steaks 
 (see No. 50), only pork requires more broiling ; when 
 they are done enough, put in a little good gravy; 
 a little sage rubbed very fine, strewed over them, 
 gives them a fine taste. 
 
 84. STUFFED PORK (Isle of Wight) 
 Take two pounds of streaky green pork (the 
 thinner the better), and one pound of sausage meat. 
 Spread the sausage meat on the under side of the 
 pork, covering one half ; now fold the other haK over, 
 bind with strips of cahco, and boil. When cooked, 
 press between two plates. This makes a good 
 breakfast dish. 
 
 85. SAVOUBY GOOSE (Sussex) 
 Take half a pound of pig's liver, two onions, one 
 pound of potatoes. Take a spoonful of flour mixed in 
 water with salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of minced 
 sage. Cut the liver in thin shces and lay in a pie 
 dish. Then put the potatoes partly cooked on top. 
 Bake. 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 37 
 
 86. EPPING SAUSAGES (Kent) 
 Six pounds of young pork, quite free from skin, 
 gristle, or fat. Cut it small, and beat it fine in a 
 mortar. Chop six pounds beef suet very fine, with a 
 handful of sage leaves. Spread the meat on a clean 
 dresser, and shake the sage over it. Shred the rind 
 of a lemon fine, and throw it with sweet herbs on 
 the meat, two nutmegs grated, a spoonful of pepper, 
 with a large spoonful of salt. Throw the suet 
 over, and mix all well together. Put it down close 
 in a pot, and when it is to be used, roll it up with 
 as much egg as will make it smooth. 
 
 87. OXFORD SAUSAGES 
 One pound young pork, fat and lean, one pound 
 beef suet, chopped fine together ; half a pound of 
 grated bread, half the peel of a lemon grated, a 
 nutmeg grated, six sage leaves chopped fine, one 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and two of salt, and a little 
 thyme, savory, and marjoram shred fine. Mix well 
 together, and put it close down in a pan tUl used. 
 Roll out the sausages, and fry in fresh butter, or 
 broil over a clear fire, and serve up hot. 
 
 VEAL 
 
 -88. BRAIN CAKES (Essex) 
 Well wash and clean the brains, then put them 
 into a pan of boiling salted water shghtly acidu- 
 lated with lemon juice, and let them cook over a 
 slow fire for an hour ; lift them out, drain well, and 
 leave till cold ; then cut into rounds, egg and bread- 
 crumb them, and fry in hot fat. 
 
38 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 89. BOILED BREAST OP VEAL 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Skewer your breast of veal, so that it will lie flat 
 in the dish, boil it an hour (if a large one an hour 
 and a quarter), make white sauce, pour it over, and 
 garnish with pickles. 
 
 90 CALF'S HEAD BOILED (Middlesex) 
 SpUt the head, and carefully take out the brains 
 and tongue ; wash it well, and let it he two hours 
 in cold water ; boil it with the tongue and brains 
 gently in plenty of water until it is quite tender ; 
 pour over the head parsley -butter made very thick ; 
 rub the brains through a sieve, add to them some 
 chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a bit of butter ; 
 mix the whole well together, and put it round the 
 tongue. 
 
 91. CALF'S HEAD PIE (Eighteenth Century) 
 ParboU a calf's head. When cold, cut it in pieces, 
 season it well with pepper and salt, put it in a 
 raised crust, with half a pint of strong gravy ; bake 
 it an hour and a half. When it comes out of the 
 oven, cut off the lid, chop the yolks of three hard- 
 boiled eggs small, strew them over the top of the pie, 
 with three or four slices of lemon and pour on some 
 good melted butter. Send it to the table without 
 a lid. 
 
 92. A GOOD WAY TO DRESS A CALF'S HEART 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a calf's heart, stuff it with good forcemeat, 
 and send to the oven in an earthen dish, with a 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 39 
 
 little water under it ; lay butter over it, dredge it 
 with flour. Boil half the liver and all the lights 
 together half an hour, then chop them small and 
 put them in a tossing pan, with a pint of gravy, 
 one spoonful of lemon pickle, and one of ketchup ; 
 squeeze in half a lemon ; pepper and salt ; thicken 
 it with a good piece of butter rolled in flour. When 
 you dish it up, pour the minced meat at the bottom, 
 and have ready, fried a fine brown, the other half of 
 the liver cut in thin shces, and little bits of bacon. 
 Set the heart in the middle, and lay the hver and 
 bacon over the mincemeat, and set them before 
 the fire ; baste them with butter, and let them be a 
 fine brown, then turn them on their other side, and 
 baste and brown the same way ; when they are 
 thoroughly done, pour a good brown gravy with 
 the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, over them ; garnish 
 with crisp parsley and lemon. 
 
 93. VEAL CUTLETS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 Take a neck of veal, cut it in joints, flatten them 
 with a rolling-pin, and cut off the ends of the long 
 bones. Season them with a little pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg, broil them on a gridiron over a slow fire. 
 When they are done enough, serve them up with 
 brown gravy and forcemeat balls. Garnish the dish 
 with lemon. 
 
 94. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Take a neck of veal and proceed as above ; season 
 
 the cutlets with pepper and salt, and dredge some 
 
 flour over them. Fry them in butter over a quick 
 
 flre, then put from them the fat they were fried in. 
 
40 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 and put to them a little gravy, a tablespoonful of 
 ketchup, the same of white wiue or lemon-juice, 
 and grate in some nutmeg. Thicken them with 
 flour and butter, and serve up. Garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
 95. NECK-OF-VEAL CUTLETS 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut a neck of veal into cutlets, fry them a light 
 brown, then put them in a tossing pan, and stew 
 them till tender in a quart of good gravy, then add 
 one spoonful of gravy, the same of ketchup, a few 
 pickled mushrooms, a little salt, and cayenne 
 pepper ; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, 
 let it boU a few minutes, lay your cutlets in a dish, 
 with the top of the ribs in the middle, pour your 
 sauce over them, lay your mushrooms over the 
 cutlets, and send them up. 
 
 96. CALVES' FEET (Cambridgeshire) 
 Two calves' feet, the rind of a lemon, mace, 
 cloves, mignonette, and pepper to taste. Boil till 
 bones drop out, then place pieces of meat on the 
 dish it is to be served in. Boil the hquor till it 
 clarifies, and reduce to just sufficient to serve each 
 piece. Last of all sprinkle with chopped parsley. 
 Sufficient for four persons. 
 
 97. CALVES' TONGUES (Seventeenth Century) 
 Boil them tender and peel them, then lard them 
 with lemon-peel and fat bacon. Then lay them 
 to the fire and half roast them. Then put them into 
 a pipkin or earthen dish with claret, whole spice, 
 and sHced lemon, a few caraway seeds, a httle 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 41 
 
 rosemary, and a little salt. Heat up all together 
 and serve them upon toast. Thus you may do 
 with sheep's tongues also. 
 
 98. VEAL CAKE (Lancashire) 
 Boil six or eight eggs hard, cut the yolks in two, 
 lay some of the pieces at the bottom of a mould, 
 shake in a Httle chopped parsley, put some slices 
 of veal and ham, add the eggs again, with white 
 pepper and salt, and so on tUl the dish is full ; then 
 put in enough water to cover the meat, lay on 
 about one ounce of butter, tie it over with a double 
 paper, and bake about one hour. Then press it 
 down together with a spoon, and let it stand till 
 cold. 
 
 99. SCOTCH COLLOPS (Kent, 1809) 
 Take part of a leg of veal, cut it ia thin pieces, 
 take off all the skin from every piece, chop it with 
 the back of a knife to make it tender. Fry it, not 
 very brown, in sweet butter. As it comes out of 
 the pan, season it with lemon peel, thyme, pepper, 
 salt, a little nutmeg, and mace. Make rich gravy 
 with beef and veal. Toss up the collops with gravy 
 thickened with sweet butter and flour, and squeeze 
 ia some juice of lemons, and mushrooms. If white, 
 add cream ; garnish with forcemeat balls, bacon, 
 and lemons. 
 
 100. SCOTCH COLLOPS THE FRENCH WAY 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a leg of veal, cut your collops pretty thick, 
 five or six inches long, and three inches broad ; rub 
 them over with the yolk of an egg, put pepper and 
 
42 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 salt, and grate a little nutmeg on them, and a little 
 shred parsley ; lay them on an earthen dish, and 
 serve. 
 
 101. VEAL KIDNEY PIE (Hertfordshire) 
 Mince two veal kidneys with some of the fat that 
 surrounds them, season with herbs, cloves, nutmeg, 
 pepper and salt, and a little chopped celery. Put 
 in a pie-dish with four hard-boiled eggs in slices, 
 haH a cupful of breadcrumbs, a wineglassful of 
 white wine and a little stock. Cover with a good 
 crust, and bake for two hours. 
 
 102. VEAL LOAF (Surrey) 
 Take a cold fillet of veal, omit the fat, and mince 
 as fine as possible. Mix with a quarter of a pound 
 of fat ham, chopped : one teacupful grated bread 
 crumbs, one grated nutmeg, one saltspoonful of salt, 
 two beaten eggs, half a saltspoonful of cayenne. Mix 
 well together in the form of a loaf. Glaze over 
 with yolk of egg, and strew pounded cracker over. 
 Set the dish in an oven, and bake half an hour. 
 Make a gravy of veal trimmings, or any gravy left 
 over from the previous day, when the meat was 
 served. Heat it up, thickened by the yolk of an egg 
 dropped in just before taken up, and serve the loaf 
 with the gravy poured round it. 
 
 103. MINCED VEAL (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut your veal in slices, then cut it in little square 
 
 bits, but do not chop it. Put it in a saucepan, with 
 
 two or three spoonfuls of gravy, a slice of lemon, a 
 
 little pepper and salt, a good lump of butter roUed 
 
POEK AND VEAL RECIPES 43 
 
 in flour, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and a large 
 spoonful of cream ; keep shaking it over the fire 
 till it boils, but do not let it boil above a minute, 
 if you do it will make your veal eat hard ; put 
 sippets round your dish, and serve it up. 
 
 104. VEAL OLIVE PIE (Eighteenth Century) 
 Cut a fillet of veal in thin slices, rub them over 
 with the yolks of eggs, strew them over with a few 
 crumbs of bread ; shred a little lemon peel very fine, 
 and put on them, with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, 
 and salt ; roll them up very tight, tie or skewer 
 them, and lay them in a pewter dish ; pour over 
 them half a pint of good gravy made of bones, 
 make a light paste, and lay it round the dish ; 
 roll the lid half an inch thick and lay it on. Make 
 a beef olive pie the same way. 
 
 105. VEAL OLIVES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut the thick part of a leg of veal in thin slices, 
 flatten them with the broad side of a cleaver, rub 
 them over with the yolk of an egg, strew over every 
 piece a very thin slice of bacon, with a few bread- 
 crumbs, a little lemon peel and parsley chopped 
 small, tie or skewer them, put them into a tin 
 dripping-pan to bake, or fry them ; then take a 
 pint of good gravy, add to it a spoonful of lemon 
 pickle, the same of walnut ketchup, and one of 
 browning, a little anchovy, and cayenne pepper, 
 thicken it with flour and butter, serve them up 
 with forcemeat balls, and strain the gravy hot upon 
 them ; garnish with pickles, and strew over them 
 a few pickled mushrooms. You may dress veal 
 outlets the same way, but not roll them. 
 
44 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 106. SCOTCH OYSTERS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 Take two pounds of the thick part of a leg of veal, 
 cut it in little bits clear from the skin, and put it in 
 a marble mortar, then shred one pound of beef- 
 suet and put to it, and beat them well together, 
 till they be firm as paste. Put to this a handful 
 of breadcrumbs and two or three eggs, season with 
 mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and work it well 
 together. Take one part of this, about the size 
 of a pigeon, and wrap it in pieces of the veal caul ; 
 make the rest into little flat cakes and fry them. 
 The roUs you may either broil in a dripping pan, or 
 set them in the oven. There is enough for a good- 
 sized dish ; lay them in the middle and set the 
 cakes round. Take some strong gravy, shred in a 
 few capers, and two or three mushrooms if you 
 have any ; thicken it up with a lump of butter, 
 and serve it up hot. Garnish your dish with pickles. 
 
 107. COMMON VEAL PATTIES (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take the kidney part of a very fat loin of veal, 
 chop the kidney, veal, and fat very small aU to- 
 gether, season it with mace, pepper, and salt, to your 
 taste; raise little patties the size of a teacup, fill 
 them with the meat, put thin lids on them, bake 
 them very crisp ; five are enough for a side dish. 
 
 108. SAVOURY VEAL PIE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut a loin of veal into steaks, season it with 
 beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt ; lay the 
 meat in your dish, with sweetbreads seasoned 
 with the meat, the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, 
 and half a pint of good gravy ; lay round your 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 45 
 
 dish a good puff paste half an inch thick, and 
 cover it with a lid the same thickness, bake it in a 
 quick oven an hour and a quarter ; when you take 
 it out of the oven, cut off the lid ; then cut the Hd 
 in eight or ten pieces, and stick it round the inside 
 of the rim, cover the meat with slices of lemon, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 109. STUFFED SHOULDER OF VEAL (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take the bone out, and fill the cavity left by it 
 with veal stuffing ; then roll up the veal neatly, and 
 tie round firmly with string. Place in a stewpan, 
 with just enough water to cover. Allow to simmer 
 slowly for four hours. Prepare two carrots, two 
 onions, and some herbs, and stew with the joint. 
 To serve take out the veal, remove the string, strain 
 the gravy, thicken with flour and pour over the 
 whole. Chop the vegetables finely for a garnish. 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 110. COLD CURRY (Surrey) 
 Four to six ounces of cold veal, chicken, or rabbit, 
 one ounce butter, one sour apple, one large table- 
 spoonful of curry powder, one good-sized onion, half 
 a pint white stock (one that sets in a jelly), quarter 
 of a pint of mUk, quarter of a pint of cream, a little 
 lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Put the butter, 
 apple and onions finely chopped, and curry powder, 
 into a saucepan, and cook for twenty minutes ; then 
 add the stock and milk. Simmer untU reduced 
 to about a quarter of a pint, with saucepan un- 
 covered. Put in the meat, cut into dice, and simmer 
 
46 PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 
 
 for twenty minutes ; then put aside to cool. When 
 cool, whip the cream and then stir in the mixture ; 
 add salt, pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice, 
 and put it in greased cases. Decorate with tomato, 
 hard-boiled eggs and parsley. 
 
 111. DRY CURRY (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, with two rather large onions cut small. Fry 
 till light brown, then add two tablespoonfuls curry 
 powder and a little salt. Have ready two pounds 
 of veal, chicken, or rabbit, cut into small pieces, 
 and add to the curry, and mix aU well together. 
 Pour in one pint milk, and simmer slowly tiU the 
 mixture is absorbed. It should take about an hour. 
 Serve with rice. 
 
 112. STUFFED LIVER (Isle of Wight) 
 
 A calf's liver, and stuffing (sage and onions). 
 Make an incision through the centre of the liver to the 
 depth of half its thickness ; now put the knife into 
 the opening and by holding it flat, cut round on each 
 side. This will make a pocket to hold the stufiing. 
 Bake in a hot oven, well basting with good dripping. 
 
 113. MOCK SWEETBREADS (Cheshire) 
 Take three-quarters of a poxmd of veal, pass it 
 
 through a mincer two or three times till it is prac- 
 tically a pulp : add a little suet or bacon very finely 
 shredded or minced, the yolks of two eggs to bind, 
 and a few fine breadcrumbs to give it consistency. 
 Season with a little mace, pepper, and salt : add a 
 httle cream or milk to moisten. Make up into the 
 
PORK AND VEAL RECIPES 47 
 
 shape of sweetbreads, and brown in good (but not 
 fierce) oven. Serve with gravy. 
 
 H4. THATCHED-HOUSB PIE 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take an earthenware dish that is pretty deep, rub 
 the inside with two ounces of butter, then spread 
 over it two ounces of vermicelli. Make a good 
 puff paste, roll it pretty thick, and lay it on the 
 dish ; take three or four pigeons, season them very 
 well with pepper and salt, put a good lump of 
 butter in them and lay them in the dish with the 
 breasts down, put a thick lid over them, and 
 bake it in a moderate oven. When done enough, take 
 the dish you intend for it and turn the pie into it, 
 upside down, and the vermicelli wUl appear like 
 thatch, which gives it the name of a thatched-house 
 pie. It is a pretty side or corner dish, for a large 
 dinner, or bottom dish for supper. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 Note. — The manuscript-books of the last three 
 centuries do not greatly trouble themselves over 
 fowl and game : or, if they do, the recipes involve 
 so lavish an expenditure of labour and material 
 that they are out of place in these hard and 
 hurried times. " Heron Pudding " is inserted as a 
 culinary curiosity : for herons, like roast swans, 
 roast peacocks, and other popular viands of the past, 
 usually figure no longer upon our dinner- tables. 
 
 The recipes for cooking rabbits will be found 
 extremely useful : especially that entitled " Jugged 
 Rabbit." As a more elaborate but very tasty dish, 
 " Roman Pie " may be instanced. 
 
 115. TO BOIL FOWLS (Eighteenth Century) 
 When you have plucked your fowls, draw them 
 at the rump, cut off the head, neck, and legs, take 
 the breast bone very carefully out, skewer them 
 with the end of their legs in the body, tie them round 
 with a string, singe and dust them well with flour ; 
 put them into a kettle of cold water, cover it close, 
 set it on the fire ; when the scum begins to rise, take 
 it off, put on your cover, and let them cook very 
 slowly for twenty minutes ; take them off, cover them 
 
 48 
 
FOWL AND GAME 49 
 
 close, and the heat of the water will stew them 
 enough in half an hour ; it keeps the skin whole, 
 and they will be both whiter and plumper than if 
 they had boiled fast ; when you take them up, 
 drain them, pour over them white sauce, or melted 
 butter. 
 
 116. TO DRESS AN OLD FOWL (Cheshire) 
 If for boiling, put it into lukewarm water with a 
 
 piece of soda (bi-carbonate) about the size of a nut, 
 
 and let it cook for the usual time. 
 
 If for roasting, pour boiling water on it, and 
 
 leave it soaking for nearly two hours in a jar on the 
 
 stove. Then dry it well, and do not flour it, but 
 
 put a little lard over it before cooking. 
 
 117. FOWL SPATCHCOCKED WITH TARTARS 
 SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Roast a fowl, take it up, split it down the back, 
 arrange it, well fastened up with skewers, spread- 
 eagle fashion ; griU over a good fire, place it on a hot 
 dish with mushrooms round and serve with tartare 
 sauce ; or make some white sauce, stir in two yolks 
 of eggs well beaten up ; beat in some salad oil, then 
 add tarragon, chervil, and enough vinegar to 
 sharpen the sauce. 
 
 118. STUFFED FOWLS (Seventeenth Century) 
 Bone your fowls and fill them with the following 
 forcemeat, and roast them. Take half a pound of 
 beef suet, some finely minced mushrooms, a few 
 sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, some grated 
 lemon peel and nutmeg, pepper, and salt : six 
 4 
 
50 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 ounces fine bread-crumbs, an egg well beaten (two, 
 if the egg be small). Have ready for sauce some 
 good gravy with mushrooms. You may lard the 
 fowls if you please. 
 
 119. SALMI OF GROUSE WITH CLARET (Surrey) 
 Cut up two roast grouse into members. Skin 
 them, and throw the trimmings and skin into a 
 stewpan, with two shced shalots, a few mushroom 
 parings, a clove, half a blade of mace, a Httle 
 allspice, and a few peppercorns. Let the whole 
 sweat in a Httle consomme, at the corner of the 
 stove. Add a pint of brown sauce, having boiled 
 and clarified this, and two or three glasses of claret. 
 Let the whole boil down rather thick, and strain 
 it over the grouse. You may ornament the dish 
 with a few pieces of toast. Blackcock or ptarmigan 
 can be prepared the same way. These birds are 
 better for keeping till the feathers come readily 
 from the skin. 
 
 120. JUGGED HARE (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 Take a young hare, wash and wipe it well, cut the 
 egs into two or three pieces, and all the other parts 
 the same bigness. Beat them aU flat with a paste- 
 pin, season with nutmeg and salt. Put them into 
 a pitcher or any other closed jar, with half a poimd 
 of butter. Set the jar in a pot of boiling water, 
 cover it up close with a cloth or lid, and lay some 
 weight upon it for fear it should fall to one side. 
 It will take about two hours in stewing ; miad your 
 pot be full of water and kept boiling all the time. 
 When the hare is done, take the gravy from it, 
 clear off the fat, and put the meat into the gravy 
 
FOWL AND GAME 51 
 
 in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful or two of white 
 wine, or a little lemon-juice, shred lemon-peel, and 
 mace. You must thicken it up as you would a white 
 fricassee. Garnish your dish with sippets of toast 
 and lemon. 
 
 121. JUGGED HARE (Surrey) 
 Take a hare, skin it, draw it, cut it up, but do not 
 wash it. Flour the pieces and fry them a good 
 brown, in butter seasoned with salt and pepper. 
 Have ready about one and a half pints of gravy, made 
 from one and a haK pounds of gravy beef. Put 
 the pieces of hare iato an earthenware jar, add one 
 small onion stuck with five cloves, one lemon peeled 
 and cut, and the gravy. Cover the jar closely, set 
 it in a deep stewpan in cold water, and let the water 
 boil three to four hours, according to the age of the 
 hare. When it is done, take it out and set it over the 
 fire iu a pan for a few minutes, and add one table- 
 spoonful mushroom ketchup, two wine glasses of 
 port, a piece of butter well floured, and some force- 
 meat balls. 
 
 122. BOASTED HARE (Eighteenth Century) 
 Skewer your hare with the head upon one shoulder, 
 the fore legs stuck into the ribs, the hind legs doubled. 
 Make your pudding of the crumbs of a penny loaf, 
 a quarter of a pound of beef marrow or suet, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter : shred the liver, a 
 sprig or two of winter savoury, a little lemon-peel, 
 a little cayenne pepper, half a nutmeg grated ; mix 
 them up in a light forcemeat, with a glass of red 
 wine and two eggs ; put it into the belly of your 
 hare, sew it up. Put a quart of good milk in your 
 
52 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 dripping-pan, baste your hare with it till it is reduced 
 to half a gUl, then dust and baste it well with butter. 
 If it be a large one it will require an hour and a half 
 roasting. 
 
 123. A HERON PUDDING (Kent) 
 Before cooking it must be ascertained that no 
 bones of the heron are broken. These bones are 
 filled with a fishy fluid, which, if allowed to come in 
 contact with the flesh, makes the whole bird taste of 
 fish. This fluid, however, should be always extracted 
 from the bones, and kept ia the medicine cupboard, 
 for it is excellent applied to all sorts of cuts and 
 cracks. The heron is first picked and fiayed. Then 
 slices are cut from the breast and legs to make the 
 pudding. The crust is made exactly like that of a 
 meat pudding, and the slices of heron put in and 
 seasoned exactly as meat would be. The pudding 
 is boiled for several hours, according to its size. 
 (I have been told that, as a matter of fact, it tastes 
 very much like a nice meat pudding.) 
 
 124. ROAST PARTRIDGES 
 The Italian way (Seventeenth Century) 
 Fill the partridges with butter worked with a 
 little salt : cover them with slices of bacon fat and 
 buttered paper : let them roast half or three-quarters 
 of an hour. Let them drain, and serve them 
 masked with an Italian sauce. 
 
 125. ROLLED PARTRIDGES (Eighteenth Century) 
 Having larded your partridges with ham or 
 bacon, strew over them some pepper and salt, 
 
FOWL AND GAME 53 
 
 powdered mace, shredded lemon peel, and sweet 
 herbs cut small. Take some beefsteaks cut as thin 
 as possible, but without holes in them, and strew 
 some of the seasoning over them, then squeeze on 
 some lemon juice. Lay a partridge on each steak, 
 roll it up, and tie it round to keep it together. Set 
 on a stewpan with some slices of bacon and an 
 onion cut into pieces. Put the partridges carefully 
 in, put to them some rich gravy, and let them stew 
 gently till they are done. Then take them out of 
 the beef, lay them in a dish, and strain the gravy 
 over them. 
 
 126. PILLAU (Cheshire) 
 
 Spread a small baking-dish all over with rashers 
 of bacon ; stick an onion with a dozen cloves ; cut 
 a fowl in pieces, and rub it well with pepper and 
 salt ; put the onion in the middle of the dish, and 
 place the fowl over it. Have some rice boiled tender 
 to fill the dish. Fill up with gravy. Cover with a 
 water and flour paste ; bake about an hour ; take 
 off the crust, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs 
 cut in quarters, and sliced onions. 
 
 127. TO BOIL RABBITS (1815) 
 
 When you have cased (or drawn) your rabbits, 
 skewer them with their heads straight up, the fore 
 legs brought down, and their hind legs straight ; 
 boil them three-quarters of an hour at least, then 
 smother them with onion-sauce, made the same as 
 for boiled ducks. Put a sprig of myrtle or bar- 
 berries in their mouths, and serve them up. 
 
54 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 128. FIVE RECIPES FOR COOKING RABBITS 
 
 (Cheshire) 
 
 GiBELOTTE 1. — Take a quarter of a pound of lean 
 bacon, cut it in small dice, and fry it in a saucepan 
 with a little butter for a few minutes. Put the 
 bacon aside on a plate. Put the pieces of rabbit 
 in the saucepan with a little more butter, and toss 
 it about till the pieces are well set and begin to 
 colour. Dredge in a Mttle flour, and stock, or wine 
 and water (white or red) enough to cover it ; add 
 salt, pepper, powdered spice, and sweet herbs, and 
 let it simmer about a quarter of an hour. Mean- 
 while toss a dozen small pickhng onions in a sauce- 
 pan with a httle butter and sugar, till they are well 
 coloured ; add them to the gibelotte with the 
 bacon and a few button mushrooms. Let aU 
 simmer twenty minutes or more ; take out the 
 bundle of herbs, and serve. 
 
 Gibelotte 2. — Toss the pieces of rabbit in butter 
 till quite set ; sprinkle with shalot, parsley, thyme, 
 and mushrooms, finely minced, pepper, and salt ; 
 dredge a httle flour over, and moisten with stock 
 (and white wine). Add the Uver, and let all simmer 
 about twenty minutes or more. Take out the 
 liver and pound it ; return it to the gibelotte, and 
 serve, garnished with sippets fried in butter. 
 
 Gibelotte 3. — Toss the pieces of rabbit with a 
 little olive oil and a shalot ; pepper and salt ; add 
 a httle thyme, and fry till the pieces begin to 
 colour. Take them out one by one, and put them 
 into another saucepan, with five or six table- 
 spoonfuls of tomato sauce. Keep shaking the pan 
 
FOWL AND GAME 55 
 
 till the rabbit is quite done, adding a little chopped 
 parsley. This is a dry stew. 
 
 GiBELOTTE 4. Curried. — Pry the pieces a light 
 brown with shced onion and strips of bacon. When 
 they begin to colour, add curry powder and flour, 
 with stock and salt. Let all simmer gently. Serve 
 with a wall of plain boiled rice round. Some add 
 slices of apple. 
 
 5. Rabbit and Onion Sauce. — Blanch the pieces 
 of rabbit for ten minutes in boiling water. Put 
 them into a saucepan with an onion stuck full 
 of cloves, thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt. Cover 
 with boiMng water. Let them simmer about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Serve on a dish, piled, with 
 plenty of onion sauce poured over them. 
 
 129. TO FRICASSEE RABBITS BROWN 
 
 (Eighteenth Century 
 
 Cut up your rabbits, fry them in butter a Ught 
 brown, put them in a tossing pan, with a pint 
 of water, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, a large 
 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, the same of 
 browning, a slice of lemon, cayenne pepper, and 
 salt to your taste ; stew them over a slow fire 
 till they are done enough ; thicken your gravy, 
 and strain it ; dish up your rabbits, and pour the 
 gravy over them. 
 
 130. TO FRICASSEE RABBITS WHITE 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut up your rabbits as before, put them into a 
 tossing pan, with a pint of veal gravy, a teaspoonful 
 of lemon pickle, a sUce of lemon, a little beaten 
 
56 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 mace, cayenne pepper, and salt, stew them over 
 a slow fire ; when they are done enough, thicken 
 your gravy with flour and butter, strain it, then 
 add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with a large tea- 
 cupful of thick cream, and a httle nutmeg grated 
 in it ; do not let it boil, and serve it up. 
 
 131. JUGGED RABBIT (Cheshire) 
 
 Take a rabbit of two to three pounds, and out 
 it up into joints. (An Ostend rabbit will be larger, 
 but fatter : two wild rabbits will answer the same 
 purpose, but will not have so much meat on.) Have 
 an earthen stew-jar with a lid, and put the rabbit 
 in, alternating each layer with a layer of thinly 
 sliced onion. Season, as you go, with salt, pepper, 
 and mace, mixed together with discretion. When 
 the jar is nearly full, cover the meat with some five 
 or six slices of thinly-cut bacon, and then add 
 enough water to come nearly up to the bacon. 
 Cover close with hd, and cook slowly in a good 
 oven for two to three hours. Serve in the jar with 
 a napkin round it. N.B. — This is extremely well- 
 flavoured, but a trifle rich. 
 
 132. ROASTED RABBITS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 When you have cased (or drawn) your rabbits, 
 skewer their heads with their mouths upon their 
 backs, stick their fore legs into their ribs, skewer 
 the hind legs double, then make a pudding for them 
 of the crumbs of a hahpenny loaf, a little parsley, 
 sweet marjoram, thyme, a lemon peel, all shred 
 fine, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your taste, mix 
 these up into a light stuffing, with a quarter of a 
 
FOWL AND GAME 57 
 
 pound of butter, a little good cream, and two eggs ; 
 put it iato the beUy and sew up. Dredge and baste 
 the rabbits well with butter, roast them nearly an 
 hour, serve them up with parsley and butter for 
 sauce ; chop the livers, and lay them in heaps round 
 the edge of your dish. 
 
 133. A MADE DISH OF RABBITS' LIVERS 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take six livers and chop them fine, with sweet 
 herbs and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Season 
 with beaten spice and salt, and put in some plumped 
 currants, and a little melted butter. Mix very well 
 together and, having some paste ready roUed thin, 
 make the mixture into little patties, and fry 
 them. 
 
 134. ROMAN PIE (Sussex) 
 
 HaK a pound of puff paste, two ounces of 
 macaroni, a small quantity of parmesan cheese, 
 according to taste, and a small chicken, boned. 
 
 Bone chicken, stew bones with gravy, make 
 rich white sauce, season to taste with salt and 
 mignonette. Cut white meat into smaU pieces, boil 
 macaroni till quite tender and cut into two-inch 
 lengths. Take a charlotte mould, first greasing 
 same, and sprinkle with vermicelli. Line with puff 
 paste, then add shces of white meat, then a sprink- 
 ling of cheese and salt, then macaroni, doing this 
 alternately. Then bake in a crisp oven one hour, 
 when it should be golden brown. Turn out and 
 serve with rich gravy and cheese. Rabbit or veal 
 may be used also. 
 
58 FOWL AND GAME 
 
 135. ROOK PIE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Skin and draw six young rooks, and cut out the 
 back bones ; season them well with pepper and salt, 
 put them in a deep dish, with a quarter of a pint of 
 water ; lay over them half a pound of butter, make 
 a good puff paste, and cover the dish. Lay a paper 
 over it, for it requires a good deal of baking. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 Note. — We were never a soup-eating nation. The 
 Englishman always desires to " get his teeth into " 
 something solidly tangible ; and in nursery circles 
 a damper is cast upon the dinner-table — a sense of 
 being defrauded out of one's lawful dues — when 
 soup, be it never so tasty, is produced. Even very 
 thick soups — pea, and lentil, and those which are 
 dense with rice, barley, sago, or macaroni — fail 
 to restore equanimity. The common soups of 
 our French neighbours — purely vegetable stock — 
 economy of cabbage-water, and so forth, carried to 
 its uttermost limit, would never appease the yearn- 
 ings of those taught to reverence the Roast Beef of 
 Old England. 
 
 So I have not included very many soups : and 
 I have perforce omitted some which began with so 
 prodigious a boiling down of beef and mutton, that 
 they would have befitted a giant's cuisine. The 
 ordinary cookery book will supply you with many 
 excellent suggestions for soup : but the hints which 
 follow are useful and occasionally quite novel. 
 
 It is advisable to keep a stock-pot in every house, 
 if only for gravies : carefully straining oif all 
 vegetable matter after the boUing, and re-boiling 
 (not merely heating) the stock every day should the 
 
 69 
 
60 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 weather demand it. It is the falsest of false 
 economy to use stock which is in the tiniest degree 
 tainted. All bones should be well broken up before 
 being put in ; and salt should be invariably added. 
 
 136. ALMOND SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take a neck of veal and the scrag end of a neck 
 of mutton, chop them in small pieces, put them in a 
 large tossing-pan, cut in a turnip, with a blade or 
 two of mace, and five quarts of water ; set it over the 
 fire, and let it boU gently till it is reduced to two 
 quarts. Strain it through a hair sieve into a clear 
 pot, then put in six ounces of almonds, blanched and 
 beaten fine, half a pint of thick cream, and cayenne 
 pepper to your taste. Have ready three small French 
 rolls, the size of a small teacup ; if they are larger 
 they will not look well, and will drink up too much 
 of the soup ; blanch a few Jordan almonds, and 
 cut them lengthways, stick them round the edge 
 of the rolls, slantways, then stick them all over 
 the top of the rolls, and put them in the tureen. 
 When dished up, pour the soup upon the rolls ; 
 these rolls look like a hedgehog. Some French 
 cooks give this soup the name of Hedgehog Soup. 
 
 137. A VERY GOOD WHITE ALMOND SOUP 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take veal, fowl, or any other white meat, boiled 
 down with a little mace (or other spice to your taste), 
 let it boU to a mash, then strain off the gravy. Take 
 some of the white fleshy part of the meat and rub 
 it through a fine colander. Have ready two ounces 
 of almonds, beaten fine, rub these through the 
 colander, then put all into the gravy, set it on the 
 
SOUP RECIPES 61 
 
 fire to thicken a little, and stir into it two or three 
 tablespoonfuls of cream, and a little butter worked 
 into flour. Have ready a crisped French roll for 
 the middle, and slips of bread cut long like Savoy 
 biscuits. Serve up hot. 
 
 138. BARLEY BROTH (Kent, 1809) 
 Put a quantity of barley with onions (and, if they 
 can be got, carrots, and turnips), and a sprinkling 
 of salt and pepper, into a pot having a lid, with a 
 quantity of water equal to the quantity of broth 
 required, sufficient to boU a neck of mutton, which 
 should be put into it, and let the whole boil slowly 
 for five or six hours. Duriag part of the time the 
 mutton should be taken out, otherwise it will be 
 over-boiled. In place of a neck, a flap of mutton 
 may be used, and griUed after it is boiled. 
 
 139. SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH (Kent, 1809) 
 In Scotland an excellent broth, similar to the 
 above is made of sheep's head, and sheep's feet. 
 The head and feet are not skinned as in England, 
 but the wool is singed off. It is a dish esteemed 
 even at the tables of the rich, as barley broth and 
 hodge-podge also are. The head, cold, eaten with 
 vinegar and mustard, is exceUent eating, and is 
 used at breakfast in many parts of that country. 
 
 140. SPINACH BROTH (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take strong stock, boU a piece of neck of mutton 
 
 — four poimds or so, and a marrow bone in it. Then 
 
 put in half a pound of French barley, a bundle of 
 
 sweet herbs, two or three blades of large mace, and 
 
62 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 let these boil well. Mince very small two large 
 onions and half a peck of spinach. Add it to the 
 broth, season to taste with salt, and let aU boU an 
 hour or more. Serve the mutton and marrow bone 
 in a separate dish with pieces of toast or fried bread. 
 
 141. VEGETABLE BROTH (Kent, 1809) 
 Is composed of greens or cabbage, shorn or cut 
 into small pieces, onions, carrots, and turnips, or 
 one or more of them as can be got, also cut into 
 small pieces, with barley boiled slowly in a portion 
 of water corresponding to the quantity of broth 
 wanted, to which a sprinMing of salt and pepper is 
 added ; a small quantity of dripping is also added, 
 when that can be procured ; and vegetable broth, 
 if properly made, is a nourishing and palatable 
 food. 
 
 142. CHESTNUT SOUP (Sussex) 
 BoU the chestnuts tiU they burst open. Throw 
 them into cold water, peel them, crush them into 
 a paste (moistening with a little milk when de- 
 sirable). Put them through a fine sieve. Set them 
 in an earthenware pan with an onion already cooking 
 in a little butter. Add a teaspoonful of sugar, a 
 saltspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a light hint of 
 spice, and as much mUk as will make up the required 
 amount. Stir continually, and when it boils, add a 
 spoonful of rice-flour, made smooth in cold milk, and 
 a little cream if possible. 
 
 143. EGG SOUP (Seventeenth Century) 
 Having beaten the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, 
 along with a piece of butter the size of an egg. 
 
SOUP RECIPES 63 
 
 take a pan or kettle of boiling stock in one hand 
 and a spoon in the other, and pour in by degrees 
 about a quart of stock, and keep stirring it well 
 all the time. When the eggs are well mixed and 
 the butter melted, pour it into a saucepan and keep 
 stirring till it begins to simmer. Take it off the 
 fire and pour it from one vessel into another till 
 it is quite smooth and has a good froth. Then 
 put it on the fire again, keep stirring it until it is 
 quite hot, and then pour it into your soup-dish. 
 (Salt and seasoning seem to have been forgotten 
 here. Ed.) 
 
 144. FARINE BRULEE (Surrey) 
 
 Fry some onions a light brown in dripping at the 
 bottom of a saucepan. Then put in one small table- 
 spoonful of flour to each person, and stir with a 
 wooden spoon over the fire until the flour is a pale 
 brown colour, then add the hot stock (half a pint for 
 each person) and stir until it is quite smooth and 
 thick. Cut up very thin slices of cheese, put them 
 into the bottom of the tureen, and pour on the soup. 
 
 145. GRAVY SOUP THICKENED WITH YELLOW 
 
 PEAS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Put a shin of beef to six quarts of water, with a 
 pint of peas and six onions, set them over the fire 
 and let them boil gently till all the juice be out of 
 the meat, then straia it through a sieve, and add to 
 the strained liquor one quart of strong gravy to make 
 it brown ; put in pepper and salt to your taste, then 
 put in a little celery and beet leaves, and boil 
 tni they are tender. 
 
64 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 146. HARE SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut one large old hare in small pieces, and put it 
 in a jar, with three blades of mace, a little salt, two 
 large onions, half a pint of red wine, and three quarts 
 of water ; bake it in a quick oven three hours, then 
 strain it into a tossing-pan ; have ready boiled three 
 ounces of French barley, or sago water ; scald the 
 liver of the hare in boiling water two minutes ; run 
 it through a hair sieve, with the back of a wooden 
 spoon ; put it into the soup with the barley or sago 
 and a quarter of a pound of butter ; set it over the 
 fire, keep stirring it, but do not let it boil : if you 
 do not like liver, put in crisped bread steeped in 
 red wine. This is a rich soup, and proper for a 
 large entertainment ; and where two soups are 
 required, almond or onion soup may be used for 
 the top and the hare soup for the bottom. 
 
 147. LENTIL SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 To a quart of strong stock put about a cup of 
 lentils, and seasoning to taste. Let it simmer till 
 the lentils are thoroughly mashed, then give it a 
 boil-up. 
 
 148. GERMAN LENTIL SOUP (VEGETARIAN) 
 (Kent) 
 
 Scald half a pound of lentils in boiling water, drain 
 and put on with quantity of boiling water required. 
 Fry some onions, celery and tomatoes in butter 
 tiU brown, and add. Simmer two hours. 
 
 149. MILK SOUP (Essex) 
 Take four large potatoes and one onion, peel and 
 cut them into quarters, and put them into two 
 
SOUP RECIPES 65 
 
 quarts of boiling water or white stock. Boil till 
 done to a mash, strain through a colander, and rub 
 the vegetables through with a wooden spoon, return 
 the pulp and soup to the saucepan, with one pint 
 of milk, and bring to the boU ; when it boUs, sprinkle 
 in three tablespoonfuls of crushed tapioca, stir- 
 ring all the time. Boil fifteen minutes, and serve. 
 
 160. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Fry some onion and carrot in butter till they become 
 a light brown, then add a small piece of apple, some 
 sultanas, coconut, chutney, Harvey's sauce, a pinch 
 of salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of curry powder, 
 a little curry paste, and about a quarter of a 
 pint of strong stock, and let simmer for about an 
 hour. 
 
 151. MULLIGATAWNY (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take four onions sliced small and a head of garlic, 
 fry them a light brown, then put them into a stewpan 
 with the meat, which should befowl oranywhite meat. 
 Three spoonfuls of curry powder and two of flour 
 mixed together, likewise a spoonful of lemon juice 
 and cayenne pepper to your taste. Pour over it a 
 pint of boiling water and let it simmer slowly for a 
 short time, then add a sufficient quantity of broth 
 made without vegetables to make a tureen of Mulli- 
 gatawny. The ingredients must then stew together 
 an hour. To be served up with a dish of rice as 
 for curry. Cold fowl will dress this way extremely 
 well. 
 5 
 
66 SOUP EECIPES 
 
 152. ONION SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Boil eight or ten large Spanish onions in milk and 
 water ; change it three times. When they are quite 
 soft, rub them through a hair sieve. Cut an old cock 
 in pieces and boil it for gravy, with one blade of 
 mace ; strain it, and pour it upon the pulp of the 
 onions, boil it gently with the crumb of an old 
 penny loaf, grated into half a pint of cream ; add 
 cayenne pepper and salt to your taste ; a few heads 
 of asparagus or stewed spinach both make it eat 
 well and look very pretty : grate a crust of brown 
 bread round the edge of the dish. 
 
 153. ONION SOUP (Kent, 1809) 
 Take haK a pound of butter, put it in a stewpan 
 on the fire, let it all melt. Let it boil till it has done 
 making any noise, then have ready ten or twelve 
 middling-sized onions, peeled and cut small, throw 
 them into the butter, and let them fry a quarter of 
 an hour ; shake in a little flour and stir them round, 
 and let them cook a few minutes longer, then pour in 
 a quart or three pints of boiling water, and stir 
 well ; take a piece of upper crust of stale bread, 
 about as big as the top of a penny loaf, cut small, and 
 throw it in. Season it with salt to your taste, let it 
 boil ten minutes, stirring it often, then tauke it off 
 the fire, and have ready the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 very fine with half a tablespoonful of vinegar ; mix 
 some of your soup with them ; then stir the rest into 
 your soup, and mix it weU and pour it into your tureen. 
 
 154. BROWN ONION SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Skin and cut roundways in slices six large Spanish 
 onions, fry them in butter till they are a nice brown 
 
SOUP RECIPES 67 
 
 and very tender, then take them out, and lay them 
 on a hair sieve to drain out the butter. When 
 drained, put them in a pot, with five quarts of 
 boiling water, boU them one hour and stir them 
 often ; then add pepper and salt to your taste. Rub 
 the crumbs of a penny loaf through a colander, put 
 it to the soup, stir it well to keep it from being in 
 lumps, and boil it two hours more. Ten minutes 
 before you send it up, beat the yolks of two eggs 
 with two dessertspoonfuls of vinegar and a little of 
 the soup, pour it in by degrees, and keep stirring it all 
 the time one way. Put in a few cloves if you choose. 
 N.B. — It is a fine soup, and will keep three or four 
 days. 
 
 155. WHITE ONION SOUP 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take thirty large onions, boil them in five quarts 
 of water, with a knuckle of veal, a blade or two of 
 mace, and a little whole pepper. When your onions 
 are quite soft, take them up, and rub them through 
 a hair sieve and work haH a pound of butter with a 
 little flour into them. When the meat is boiled so as 
 to leave the bone, strain the liquor over the onions, 
 boil them gently for half an hour, serve up with a 
 coffee-cup full of cream, and a little salt. Be sure 
 you stir the soup when you put in the flour and 
 butter, for fear of its burning. 
 
 156. OX-CHEEK SOUP (Ireland) 
 Put an ox-cheek into cold water in a tub to 
 soak for a couple of hours, then break the bones, 
 and wash it well in warm water ; put it into a soup- 
 pot, and cover it with cold water. When it boils, 
 
68 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 skim it very clean, and put in herbs, a head of 
 celery, a turnip, carrots, two large onions, some 
 pepper, allspice, and lemon, thyme, marjoram, and 
 parsley. Cover the pot close, and let it boU slowly ; 
 skim well ; simmer about three hours ; take out 
 the head and let it boil slowly for about an hour. 
 If you wish to thicken it, put two ounces of butter 
 to melt in a pan, and then stir in as much flour as 
 will dry it up ; brown it when well mixed together, 
 and add it to the soup, stirring it well. Give it 
 half an hour longer to boU. Strain it, if you wish, 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 167. OX-CHEEK SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 First break the bones of an ox-cheek, and wash it 
 in many waters ; then lay it in warm water, and throw 
 in a little salt to fetch out the slime ; wash it out 
 very weU. Then take a large stewpan, put two 
 ounces of butter at the bottom of the pan, and lay 
 the flesh side of the cheek down ; add to it half a 
 pound of shank of ham, cut in slices, and four heads 
 of celery ; pull off the leaves, wash the heads clean, 
 and cut them in with three large onions, two carrots, 
 and one parsnip sliced, a few beets cut small, and 
 three blades of mace ; set it over a moderate fire a 
 quarter of an hour ; this draws the virtue from the 
 roots, which gives a pleasant strength to the gravy. 
 I have made a good gravy by this method with 
 roots and butter only, adding a little browning to 
 give it a pretty colour. When the head has simmered 
 a quarter of an hour, put to it six quarts of water, 
 and let it stew till it is reduced to two quarts. If you 
 would have it like soup, strain and take out the 
 meat and other ingredients, and put in the white 
 
SOUP RECIPES 69 
 
 part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, with a 
 little browning to make it a fine colour ; take two 
 ounces of vermicelli, give it a scald in the soup, and 
 put the top of a French roll in the middle of a tureen, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 If you would have it like stew, take up the cheek 
 as whole as possible, and have ready, cut in square 
 pieces, a boiled turnip and carrot, a slice of 
 bread toasted and out in dice ; put in a little 
 cayenne pepper, and strain the soup through a 
 hair sieve upon the meat, carrot, turnip, and bread. 
 
 158. PASSOVER BALLS FOR SOUP (Jewish) 
 Chop an onion and half a pound of suet very 
 finely, stew them together until the suet is melted, 
 then pour it hot upon eight spoonfuls of biscuit 
 flour : mix it well together : add a little salt, a 
 httle grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and ginger : add six 
 beaten eggs : put the balls into the soup when it boils, 
 and boil them for a quarter of an hour. The quan- 
 tity of eggs and flour may appear disproportioned, 
 but the flour employed is of a pecuKar kind, used 
 for the purpose in Jewish families. Nothing can 
 exceed the excellence of the balls made after this 
 recipe ; they are applicable to any kind of soups. 
 
 139. PEA SOUP (Essex) 
 Four pints of water, one pint of dried peas, three 
 onions, three carrots, two turnips, a bunch of 
 herbs, sixpennyworth of beef bones (or stock from 
 boiling salt beef). Soak the peas in two or three 
 waters for twelve hours, wash the bones, put them 
 in a clean saucepan with the water and peas, add 
 
70 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 salt and pepper, skim well while boiling. Scrape 
 the carrots, peel the turnips, skin the onions, cut 
 them all in dice, add to the bones and peas, simmer 
 very gently for four hours. Remove the bones, 
 season with dried mint if liked, rub through a hair 
 sieve if a puree is required. The water in which a 
 joint of salt beef has been boiled, or one pint of 
 bone or vegetable stock can be used instead of the 
 bones. 
 
 160. COMMON PEAS SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 To one quart of split peas put four quarts of soft 
 water, a little lean bacon, or roast-beef bones, with 
 one head of celery ; cut it and put it in with a 
 turnip, boil it till reduced to two quarts ; then 
 work it through a colander with a wooden spoon; 
 mix a little flour and water, and boil it weU in the 
 soup, and slice in another head of celery, with cayenne 
 pepper and salt to your taste. Cut a sUce of bread 
 in small pieces, fry them a light brown, and put them 
 in your dish ; then pour the soup upon it. 
 
 161. GREEN PEA SOUP (Essex) 
 Half a pint of shelled peas, one quart of the 
 green shells, one and a half pints of water, two 
 ounces of butter, one onion, two sprigs of mint, two 
 lumps of sugar, half a pint of mUk, one teaspoonf ul of 
 cornflour. Shell the peas, rinse the empty shells, 
 and with a sharp knife remove the strings. Melt 
 the butter in a very clean saucepan, put in the peas, 
 the prepared shells, the onion sliced, and toss (to 
 absorb the flavour of the butter) over a slow fire 
 for a few minutes, hut do not brown. Then add the 
 water, mint, sugar, and boil until tender. Rub all 
 
SOUP RECIPES 71 
 
 through a hair sieve. Blend the cornflour smoothly 
 with the milk. Put the soup back into the sauce- 
 pan, add the milk and cornflour, and stir until it 
 boils. Season and serve. Pried croutons of bread 
 should be handed with this soup. 
 
 162. GREEN PEA SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Get some nice peas in their shells. Boil them 
 till they are quite tender, and pass through a fine 
 wire sieve ; then add a little strong white stock 
 and boil for an hour, colouring if required ; then 
 thicken and serve with some fried sippets. 
 
 163. GREEN PEAS SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 Shell a peck of peas and boil them in spring 
 water tiU they are soft, then work them through a 
 hair sieve ; take the water that your peas are boiled 
 in, and put in a knuckle of veal, three slices of ham, 
 and two carrots, a turnip, and a few beet leaves 
 shred small, and add a little more water to the meat ; 
 set it over the fire, and let it boil one hour and a 
 half ; then strain the gravy into a bowl, and mix 
 it with the pulp, and put in it a little juice of spinach, 
 which must be beaten and squeezed through a cloth ; 
 put in as much as will make it look a pretty colour, 
 then give it a gentle boil, which wiU take off the 
 taste of the spinach ; slice in the whitest part of a 
 head of celery, put in a lump of sugar the size of a 
 walnut. Take a slice of bread, and cut it in little 
 pieces, cut a little bacon the same way, fry them 
 a light brown in fresh butter ; cut a large cabbage- 
 lettuce in slices, fry it after the other, put it in the 
 tureen with the fried bread and bacon. Have ready 
 
72 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 boiled, as for eating, a pint of young peas, and put 
 them in the soup, with a little chopped mint if you 
 like it, and pour it into your tureen. 
 
 164. GREEN PEAS SOUP WITHOUT MEAT 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 In shelling your peas, separate the old ones from 
 the young, and boil the old ones soft enough to 
 strain through a colander ; then put the liquor and 
 what you strained through to the young peas, which 
 must be whole ; add some whole pepper, mint, a 
 large onion shred small, put them in a large sauce- 
 pan, with near a pound of butter ; as they boil up, 
 shake in some flour, then put in a French roU, fried 
 in butter, to the soup. You must season it to your 
 taste with salt and herbs ; when you have done so, 
 add the young peas to it, which must be half boiled 
 first. You may leave out the flour if you do not 
 like it, and instead of it put in a little spinach and 
 cabbage-lettuce, cut small, which must be first 
 fried in butter and well mixed with the broth. 
 
 165. POTATO SOUP (Essex) 
 Two heads of celery, one carrot, one onion, one 
 parsley root, and some leeks. Boil together in some 
 stock with a little butter. Take some floury 
 potatoes, cook, and rub through a hair sieve. Boil 
 with the other ingredients. 
 
 166. POTATO SOUP (Ireland) 
 Two onions, three potatoes, two ounces of bacon, 
 all sliced thin, pepper, and salt. Two quarts of 
 water. Boil two hours. 
 
SOUP RECIPES 73 
 
 167. RICE AND BONE SOUP (Sussex) 
 Well cover the bones with water. Take four 
 carrots, two turnips, and two onions. Cut small. 
 A small tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of 
 sugar. Boil the bones well and take off the fat. 
 Then add the vegetables, and boil for another half 
 hour. Then take away the bones and season the 
 soup to taste. 
 
 168. SAGO SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 Put two pints of good strong chicken broth in a 
 pan, with a little parsley, onion, and celery ; bring 
 to the boil and reduce it to one and a haK pints ; 
 strain and put back into the pan. Bring to the 
 boil again. Then add four dessertspoonfuls of fine 
 sago, simmer until the sago is quite cooked, season 
 with salt and pepper, and just before serving put into 
 the soup some chicken cut up in small dice, and 
 haK a teaspoonful of thick cream. 
 
 169. CREAM SAGO SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take one quart of good veal stock nicely seasoned ; 
 to it by degrees add two ounces of medium sago, 
 first washed in boiling water. Simmer gently till 
 the sago is quite dissolved and forms a sort of jelly ; 
 add one gill of good cream, and just before serving, 
 put in the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Care must 
 be taken that the soup is not boiling when the eggs 
 are added. Serve with fried sippets. 
 
 170. TASTY SOUP (Essex) 
 Take the liquor in which codfish has been boiled, 
 and add to each quart half a teacupful of tapioca, 
 
74 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 a carrot, half a head of celery, and a little parsley. 
 Cut the vegetables up very small and boil until 
 they are cooked. Then thicken with flour. Add 
 pepper and salt to taste, and serve with dry toast 
 cut into small fancy shapes. This is very tasty and 
 costs very little. 
 
 171. TOMATO SOUP (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Fry some onions and tomatoes tiU they are quite 
 tender, then pulp through a sieve and add some 
 strong stock ; when ready, thicken very slightly 
 and serve with some fried sippets. 
 
 172. TRANSPARENT SOUP (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a leg of veal, and cut off all the meat as thin 
 as you can ; when you have cut off all the meat 
 clean from the bone, break the bone in small pieces, 
 put the meat in a large jar, and the bones at top, 
 with a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, haff a pound of Jordan almonds, blanched 
 and beaten fine; pour on it four quarts of boiling 
 water, let it stand all night by the fire, covered close. 
 The next day put it into a well-tinned saucepan, 
 and let it boil slowly till it is reduced to two quarts. 
 Be sure you take the scum and fat off as it rises all 
 the time it is boiling ; strain it into a bowl, let 
 it settle for two hours, pour it into a clean saucepan, 
 clear from the sediment, if any, at the bottom ; 
 have ready three ounces of rice boiled in water. 
 If you like vermicelli better, boil two ounces ; when 
 done enough, put it in and serve it up. 
 
SOUP EECIPES 76 
 
 173. AN EXCELLENT WHITE SOUP 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 To six quarts of water put in a knuckle of veal, a 
 large old fowl, a pound of lean bacon, and half a 
 pound of rice, a few pepper-corns, two or three 
 onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, and three or 
 four heads of celery in slices. Stew all together 
 till your soup is as strong as you choose it, then 
 strain it through a hair sieve into a clean earthen 
 pot ; let it stand all night, then take off the scum, 
 and pour the soup clear off into a tossing-pan ; put in 
 half a pound of Jordan almonds beaten fine, boil it a 
 little, and run it through a sieve, then put in a pint 
 of cream and the yolk of an egg. Make it hot (but 
 not boiling) and send it to table. 
 
 174. WHITE SOUP WITH POACHED EGGS 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take veal stock or chicken broth : beat half a 
 pound of almonds, and the breast of a fowl, very 
 fine in a mortar : add these to the white stock, 
 boil well, and strain off. Let it gently simmer on 
 the stove, while you poach eight eggs : lay these 
 in your soup, with a French roll in the middle, 
 filled with minced chicken or veal. Serve very hot. 
 
 175. A GOOD VEGETABLE SOUP (Essex) 
 Boil bones for six or eight hours, then strain the 
 liquor off. When cold, take all the fat completely off. 
 Mince somewhat small a couple of turnips, a very little 
 onion, a piece of shalot, and some outside pieces of 
 celery. Let the stock boil for twenty minutes before 
 it is required for dinner, then throw in the minced 
 
76 SOUP RECIPES 
 
 vegetables and a tiny bit of butter. Let the stock 
 and vegetables boil rapidly for half an hour, and if 
 the soup is not sufficiently thick with the vegetables, 
 mix a teaspoonful of flour smoothly with cold 
 water and strain it in, and let it simmer at once. 
 Then strain it into the soup-tureen, in which you 
 can put the toast that was left from breakfast, cut 
 into tiny squares. 
 
 176. RICH VERMICELLI SOUP 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Into a large tossing-pan put four ounces of butter ; 
 cut a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton into 
 small pieces, about the size of walnuts ; shoe in 
 the meat of a shank of ham, with three or four 
 blades of mace, two or three carrots, two parsnips, 
 two large onions, with a clove stuck in at each end ; 
 cut in four or five heads of celery washed clean, and 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, cover the pan close up, and 
 set it over a slow fire, without any water, tUl the 
 gravy is drawn out of the meat, then pour the gravy 
 out into a pot or basin. Let the meat brown in the 
 same pan, and take care it does not burn, then pour 
 in four quarts of water ; let it boil gently till it is 
 wasted to three pints, then strain it, and put the 
 other gravy to it, set it on the fire, add to it two 
 ounces of vermicelli, the nicest part of a head of 
 celery, cayenne pepper and salt to your taste, and 
 let it boil for four minutes. If not a good colour, 
 put in a little browning ; lay a small French roU 
 in the soup-dish, pour the soup upon it, and lay 
 some of the vermicelli over it. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 FISH RECIPES 
 
 Note. — Fish was very largely consumed in former 
 days ; and it was, as a rule, so highly spiced and 
 seasoned as almost (from our point of view) to swamp 
 and destroy its flavour. Spices and condiments 
 were indispensable to our forefathers ; and they 
 would consider our modem treatment of fish in- 
 sipid in the extreme. The days when herrings, 
 dried or fresh, were the staple diet of the peasantry 
 — when apprentices petitioned for special clauses 
 in their indentures, that they should not be com- 
 pelled to eat fresh salmon more than twice a week — 
 are now so far beyond our ken as to be almost 
 inconceivable. The following hints have been 
 selected as those most feasible under present condi- 
 tions, and largely deal with the utilisation of cold 
 cooked fish — always a problem for the kitchen. 
 Attention is especially directed to the easy and 
 valuable recipe for preparing a " Finnan-Haddock," 
 which, as usually cooked, is often a source of 
 dyspepsia : to the excellent method for " Home- 
 made Bloater Paste " ; and to " Sardine Sand- 
 wiches." 
 
 177. HOME MADE BLOATER PASTE (Yorkshire) 
 Put six large herrings into boiling water for ten 
 minutes, then cut off their heads, skin them, and 
 
 77 
 
78 FISH RECIPES 
 
 draw out all the bones. Beat them in a mortar, 
 and add as follows : ten ounces of butter, three 
 dessert-spoonfuls of anchovy sauce, cayenne and 
 white pepper to taste. 
 
 178. TO BAKE COD (Middlesex) 
 The thickest part of the cod should be chosen for 
 this dish, which is to be filled with a stuffing of 
 grated bread crumbs, a bit of butter, the yolks of 
 three hard-boiled eggs, pepper, salt, grated lemon 
 peel and nutmeg, and an anchovy finely cut up, 
 binding the whole with the white of egg beaten up : 
 put the whole in a dish that will stand fire, with 
 bits of butter over the top of it, and bake it in the 
 oven for an hour. A Dutch oven is the best suited 
 for this dish, as it requires to be frequently basted 
 and turned : melted butter or oyster sauce may be 
 served with it. 
 
 179. TO DRESS A SALT COD 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Steep your salt fish in water all night, with a 
 glass of vinegar ; it will fetch out the salt and make 
 it eat like fresh fish. The next day boil it ; when it 
 is done enough, puU it in flakes into your dish, then 
 pour egg sauce over it, or parsnips boiled and beaten 
 fine with butter and cream. Send it to the table 
 on a hot-water plate, for it will soon grow cold. 
 
 180. TO DRESS CODS' SOUNDS 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Steep your sounds as you do the salt cod, and 
 boil them in a large quantity of milk and water ; 
 when they are very tender and white, take them 
 
FISH RECIPES 79 
 
 up and drain the water out, then pour the egg sauce 
 boiling hot over them, and serve them up. 
 
 181. FISH CAKES (Middlesex) 
 Break up very fine any remains of cold fish, 
 having carefully boned and skinned it. Pass 
 through a sieve any cold potatoes, and mix an equal 
 quantity of them with the fish. Moisten with any 
 melted butter left over, or with a well-beaten egg, 
 add a few bread crumbs to make the mixture firm. 
 Season with pepper and salt. Make the mixture 
 into balls or small round cakes. Roll in egg and 
 bread crumbs, as for frying fish, and fry a hght 
 brown. Garnish with parsley and lemon. 
 
 182. TO CAVEACH FISH (Eighteenth Century) 
 Cut your fish into pieces the thickness of your 
 hand, season it with pepper and salt, let it lie an 
 hour, dry it well with a cloth, flour it, and then fry 
 it a fine brown in oU. BoU a sufficient quantity of 
 vinegar, with a little garlic, mace, and pepper, to 
 cover the fish ; add the same quantity of oU, and 
 salt to your taste ; mix well the oil and vinegar, 
 and when the fish and liquor is quite cold, sHce some 
 onions to lay in the bottom of the pot, then a layer 
 of fish, then onions, and so on tiU the whole fish is 
 put up. The liquor must not be put in till it is 
 quite cold. 
 
 183. FISH CUSTARD (Surrey) 
 Take any cold fish, remove all bones and skin, 
 lay it in small pieces in the bottom of a pie-dish, 
 with a little salt and pepper. Mix a dessertspoon- 
 ful of flour smooth in a teacupful of milk, add one 
 
80 FISH EECIPES 
 
 beaten egg, and a piece of butter about as big as 
 a walnut, creamed but not oiled. Pour it over the 
 fish, and bake half an hour or so in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 184. FISH PIE (Cape Colony) 
 Remove all skin and bone from any kind of fish 
 
 (cooked) ; break into small pieces, mixed with miaced 
 onion previously fried in butter ; add pepper, salt, 
 and mustard, tomato sauce, half a well-beaten egg, 
 and pack into a pie-dish. Cover with mashed 
 potatoes, brush over with an egg. Bake for three- 
 quarters of an hour. 
 
 185. FISH PIE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Put three-quarters of a pint of mUk into a sauce- 
 pan, with half a small onion, two cloves, a few thin 
 strips of lemon peel, two or three pieces of 
 parsley, and some salt and pepper, and let the milk 
 simmer gently for twenty minutes. Make a paste 
 in a saucepan with an ounce and a quarter of butter, 
 and an ounce and a quarter of flour. Strain the 
 milk and mix it gradually with the paste, thus 
 making a thick sauce ; ascertain whether more 
 pepper and salt is required, and add a teaspoonful 
 of anchovy essence. Butter a pie dish, and place a 
 layer of cooked fish which has been divided into 
 flakes, in it, and cover it with some of the pre- 
 pared sauce, a few shrimps, and a little chopped 
 parsley ; then put more fish and the remainder of 
 the sauce and some shrimps and parsley as before. 
 Have in readiaess some smoothly mashed potato, 
 which has been well seasoned with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and mix with some milk, butter, and the yolk 
 
FISH RECIPES 81 
 
 of an egg ; then beat it until it is light and creamy. 
 Cover the fish with this, mark the top with a fork, 
 and after pouring a small quantity of warm butter 
 over the surface of the potato, bake the pie in a 
 quick oven until it is evenly browned. 
 
 186. FISH PIE (Ireland) 
 
 Line the bottom and sides of a deep fireproof 
 china dish evenly with vermicelli, which has been 
 previously boiled in salt and water, well drained, and 
 then tossed in a little melted butter. Have ready 
 some fillets of sole or whiting. Brush each fillet 
 on both sides with melted butter, then dip them in 
 fine bread crumbs, nicely seasoned with finely- 
 chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Pill up the dish 
 with the fillets in layers, pour over them a gill 
 of thick tomato sauce : spread vermicelli over the 
 top, sprinkle with bread crumbs and chopped par- 
 sley, and put some small pieces of butter here and 
 there. Bake in a steady oven half an hour, and 
 serve in the dish in which it is cooked, garnished 
 with parsley. 
 
 187. FISH PIE (Sussex) 
 
 Ingredients. — Fresh- water fish — either roach, jack, 
 or eel ; one pound of onions, half a pound of rice, 
 three eggs,, quarter of a pound of butter, puff paste. 
 
 Method. — Boil rice. Lightly fry onions, cut into 
 small pieces. Boil eggs hard, then slice them, and 
 bone fish. Fill pie-dish, first with layers of rice, 
 then onions, butter, fish, and eggs. So on. Cover 
 in with puff paste, and bake. Very good, hot or 
 cold. 
 6 
 
82 FISH RECIPES 
 
 188. FISH PUDDING (Surrey) 
 Take one pound and a half of cooked fish, half a 
 teacupful of bread crumbs, two well-beaten eggs, 
 half a teacupful of milk, one ounce melted butter, 
 a little anchovy essence, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, pepper, and salt. Break up the fish as 
 finely as possible in a bowl, and add the rest — the 
 eggs and mUk last. When all is well mixed put it 
 in a buttered mould, and let it steam for three- 
 quarters of an hour. For a baked fish pudding, 
 use an equal amount of well-mashed potatoes, and 
 about twice as much milk and butter as is men- 
 tioned above. 
 
 189. FISH AND POTATO PUDDING (Kent, 1809) 
 Boil a quantity of potatoes, and bruise them like 
 mashed potatoes. Mix with them a smaU portion 
 of dried fish cut or grated very small, and a small 
 quantity of dripping or butter. Put them into a 
 tin dish, which may be put into a Dutch oven placed 
 before the fire, until sufiiciently browned, or in a 
 common oven where a cottager's family bakes bread. 
 If a few boiled eggs cut into small pieces be mixed 
 with the mashed potatoes, the dish is much im- 
 proved. 
 
 190. FISH SALAD (Devonshire) 
 One pound of cold, cooked fish, one potato 
 (mashed), one lettuce, two tablespoonfuls olive oil, 
 one tablespoonful vinegar, one hard-boiled egg, one 
 teaspoonful made mustard, one tablespoonful milk, 
 one piece cooked beetroot, two pickled gherkins, 
 parsley, salt, pepper, castor sugar. Break up the fish 
 
FISH RECIPES 83 
 
 into small pieces, removing the skin and bones. Wash 
 the lettuce, or endive, tear into small pieces, dry in 
 a cloth. Mix the mashed potato with miLk ; stir 
 into it oil and vinegar ; season with mustard, pepper, 
 salt, and sugar. Mix well to produce a smooth 
 dressing. Blend the salad with the fish, season with 
 the dressing. Pile up on a dish or salad bowl. 
 Garnish with shoes of beetroot, and serve. 
 
 191. SCALLOPED FISH (Hampshire) 
 Take any cold fish remaining from the previous 
 day, carefully remove all skin and bones, and break 
 it as small as possible with two silver forks (steel 
 ones will injure the flavour). Mix into it any cold 
 melted butter left over, or use half a pint of milk 
 and two ounces of butter ; add bread crumbs to 
 thicken it, and salt, pepper, and mace to taste. 
 When all is well mixed, take some scallop-shells, 
 or saucers, butter them well, and put in the mixture. 
 Scoop a little hollow in the centre at the top, and 
 put in a very small quantity of anchovy sauce 
 Dust over with very fine bread crumbs, and drop 
 some tiny bits of butter over. Bake in a moderate 
 oven, and serve very hot. These will be found most 
 savoury and appetising. A little chopped parsley 
 may be added at discretion, and grated cheese 
 may be dusted over along with the crumbs. 
 
 192. A GOOD WAY TO STEW FISH 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Mix half a tumbler of wine with as much water as 
 wiU cover the fish in the stewpan, and put in a little 
 pepper and salt, three or four onions, a crust of 
 bread toasted very brown, one anchovy, a good 
 
84 PISH RECIPES 
 
 lump of butter, and set them over a gentle fire ; 
 shake the stewpan now and then, that it may not 
 burn. Just before you serve it up, pour your gravy 
 into a saucepan, and thicken it with a little butter 
 rolled in flour, a little ketchup, and walnut pickle ; 
 beat well together till smooth, then pour it on your 
 fish, and set it over the fire to heat, and serve it 
 up hot. 
 
 193. TO STEW FLOUNDERS, PLAICE, OR SOLES 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Half fry your fish a fine brown in three ounces of 
 butter ; then take up your fish, and put to your 
 butter a quart of water, and boil it slowly a quarter 
 of an hour with two anchovies, and an onion sliced ; 
 then put on your fish again, and stew them gently 
 twenty minutes ; then take out your fish and 
 thicken the sauce with butter and flour, and give 
 it a boil ; then strain it through a hair sieve, over 
 the fish, and send them up hot. N.B. — If you 
 choose cockle or oyster liquor, put it in just before 
 you thicken the sauce, or you may send oysters, 
 cockles, or shrimps in a sauce-boat to table. 
 
 194. FLOUNDERS WITH SORREL 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Gut and cleanse the flounders well, then slash them 
 crossways, three cuts only on one side, and lay 
 them in your saucepan. Put in as much water as 
 will just cover them, with a Httle vinegar, salt, and 
 one onion. Let them boil quickly. Then boil 
 four handfuls of sorrel, pick off the stalks, and 
 chop it very small. Add to this about haK a pound 
 
FISH RECIPES 85 
 
 of melted butter, or more, according to the quan- 
 tity of fish. Put it over your flounders, and serve 
 away quick. 
 
 195. TO BAKE HADDOCKS (Middlesex) 
 Cut off the heads and fins of two or three had- 
 docks, and put into a stewpan, with an onion, salt, 
 pepper, and two anchovies cut up fine, a Httle flour, 
 two tablespoonfuls of French white wine, and a 
 Uttle ketchup. Boil this all well up together, and 
 when the fish has been skinned and cut into pieces, 
 lay them in a deep pie-dish ; pour the above sauce 
 over them, and bake in an oven. Strew the bottom 
 of the dish with bread crumbs, and strew some 
 more over the fish, having seasoned them well with 
 pepper and salt and a httle grated nutmeg. 
 
 196. FINNAN HADDOCKS STEAMED (Surrey) 
 Instead of boiling a finnan haddock the usual 
 
 way, lay it in a deep basin or dish, and pour boiling 
 water upon it to cover it completely. Cover it up close 
 with a dish, lid, or thick cloth, and leave it for ten 
 minutes. At the end of that time it will be better 
 done, tenderer, and infinitely more digestible than 
 if cooked the old way. Put on some butter, and 
 a dash of pepper, and serve on a very hot dish. 
 
 197. BAKED HERRINGS (Eighteenth Century) 
 When you have cleaned your herrings, lay them 
 
 on a board ; take a little black pepper, a few 
 cloves, and a good deal of salt ; mix them together, 
 then rub it all over the fish, lay them straight in 
 a pot, cover them with alegar, tie a strong paper 
 
86 PISH EECIPES 
 
 over the pot, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 If your alegar be good, they will keep two or three 
 months. You may eat them either hot or cold. 
 
 198. TO BOIL HERBINGS (Eighteenth Century) 
 Scale, gut, and wash your herrings, dry them 
 clean, and rub them over with a little vinegar and 
 salt, skewer them with their tails in their mouths, 
 lay them on your fish-plate. When your water boils 
 put them in ; they will take ten or twelve minutes 
 boUing. WTien you take them up, drain them over 
 the water, then turn the heads into the middle of 
 your dish, lay round them scraped horse-radish. 
 Parsley and butter for sauce. 
 
 199. FRIED HERRINGS (Eighteenth Century) 
 Scale, wash, and dry your herrings weU ; lay them 
 separately on a board, and set them to the fire two 
 or three minutes before you want them, it wiU keep 
 the fish from sticking to the pan ; dust them with 
 flour. When your dripping or butter is boiling hot, 
 put in your fish, a few at a time ; fry them over a 
 brisk fire ; when you have fried them all, set the 
 tails up one against another in the middle of the 
 dish, then fry a large handful of parsley crisp, take 
 it out before it loses its colour, lay it round them, 
 and parsley sauce in a boat ; or, if you like onions 
 better, fry them, lay some round your dish, and 
 make onion sauce for them : or you may cut off the 
 heads after they are fried, chop them, and put them 
 into a saucepan, with ale, pepper, salt, and an 
 anchovy, thicken it with flour and butter, strain 
 it, and put it in a sauce-boat. 
 
PISH RECIPES 87 
 
 200. TO MARINATE HERRINGS (Middlesex) 
 
 Clean the fish well without washing. Open them 
 so as to remove the backbone, and season them 
 well with salt, pepper, and onion chopped very 
 fine. Roll them up tight, and place them in a jar, 
 and pour over them some vinegar and water in 
 equal quantities : tie over the jar with paper, and 
 bake in a rather slow oven for an hour. When they 
 are cold, pour over them a little cold vinegar. They 
 may be pickled in the same way as mackerel. See 
 Mackerel (No. 212). 
 
 201. HERRINGS AND POTATOES (Essex) 
 
 Wash, and boil some potatoes in their skins, 
 carefully, so that they do not break or get too soft. 
 Drain them, peel, and slice them rather thickly. 
 Keep them hot. Fry lightly a chopped onion in 
 one ounce of butter. Dust in some flour, and three 
 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper, and a 
 bay-leaf, and not quite a pint of water. Put the 
 pan to simmer at the side of the stove. Take two 
 red herrings, wash them well, cut them lengthways, 
 and remove the bones. Cut up the flesh smaU, 
 and let it simmer in the sauce for a few minutes. 
 Put in the potatoes next, stirring carefuUy so as 
 not to break them. Then add two ounces of butter 
 and one gill of milk, and stir all well over the fire 
 till it reaches boiling point. 
 
 202. POTTED HERRINGS (Lancashire) 
 Take six fresh herrings, wash, dry, and split them 
 open, removing heads and backbones. Dust them 
 with flour, pepper and salt, chopped parsley, or 
 
88 FISH EECIPES 
 
 powdered mace. Roll them up tightly with a small 
 piece of butter ia the centre of each. Place them 
 in a pie dish, pour over them equal quantities of 
 vinegar and water, but not to cover them. Cover 
 the pie dish and bake in a slow oven, then re- 
 move cover and let them brown a little. Two bay 
 leaves may be put in the pie dish instead of mace. 
 
 203. KEDGEREE (Essex) 
 
 Boil two ounces of rice till tender and let it re- 
 main till cold. Mix with it a teaspoonful of curry 
 powder and some pepper and salt. Melt two 
 ounces of butter in an enamelled saucepan, break 
 two eggs into it and add the rice and stir until it is 
 stiff, which wUl be in a few minutes. Have a large 
 square of buttered toast ready on a hot dish, and 
 pile the kedgeree on it. Sprinkle chopped parsley 
 on the top, and serve very hot. The remains of a 
 cold finnan haddock, removed from the bones and 
 mixed with the kedgeree, makes a very palatable 
 supper-dish. 
 
 204. KEDGEREE (Kent) 
 
 Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice, add any fish pre- 
 viously cooked (salmon or turbot is best ); it should 
 be well picked from the bone in shreds ; beat up 
 an egg and stir it in just before serving, but don't 
 let it boil after the egg is added. Serve with egg 
 sauce. 
 
 205. KEDGEREE (Sussex) 
 Take half a pound of cold fish, break it into 
 flakes, and remove all the bones. Then take three 
 ounces of cold boiled rice, and two hard-boiled eggs ; 
 
FISH RECIPES 89 
 
 cut the whites into dice and put them with the fish 
 and rice into a saucepan, with one and a half ounces 
 of butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When well 
 heated, put the kedgeree into a dish, and squeeze the 
 yolks of eggs through a sieve over the top. Then 
 put it into the oven to brown. 
 
 206. BASHAWED LOBSTER (Cheshire) 
 
 Take any remains of lobster and cut them up. 
 Chop up a piece of onion about the size of a nut, 
 and a little parsley. Mix all together with a little 
 anchovy sauce and cayenne pepper. Cut up in 
 small pieces a bit of butter and mix, and then put 
 all into the shell of the lobster. Cover over the top 
 with fine breadcrumbs, and butter and shake a 
 few raspings on the top. Bake for about ten 
 minutes, or a little more, and serve hot. 
 
 207. LOBSTER FRITTERS (French) 
 Chop up the meat, with the red part and the 
 spawn, of two large lobsters, very fine, with finely 
 grated crumbs of bread, add a little butter, and 
 season with pepper and salt, and a very small quan- 
 tity of chopped sweet herbs : make this into a kind 
 of paste with yolk of egg, and having formed it 
 into pieces about two inches in length and an inch 
 thick, dip them into a good thick batter, and fry. 
 
 208. SCALLOPED LOBSTER (Cheshire) 
 
 Line your dish well with lobster (tinned or 
 
 fresh) put some bread crumbs next, then lobster, 
 
 and so on, alternately with little bits of butter, 
 
 salt, and red pepper. Cover well with bread crumbs, 
 
90 FISH RECIPES 
 
 and then put little bits of butter all over, and pour 
 vinegar over all. Bake for about half an hour or 
 more, or brown nicely before the fire. You can 
 heat it up a second time, pouring in milk or gravy 
 or anything to moisten. One tin of lobster makes 
 two small dishes. Serve very hot. Excellent. 
 
 209. BOILED MACKEREL (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Gut your mackerel and dry them carefully with 
 a clean cloth, then rub them slightly over with a 
 little vinegar, and lay them straight on your fish- 
 plate (for turning them round often breaks them) 
 into your fish-pan, and boU them gently fifteen 
 minutes. Put a little salt in the water when it boils, 
 then take them up and drain them well, and put the 
 water that runs from them into a saucepan, with 
 two teaspoonfuls of lemon pickle, one meatspoonful 
 of walnut ketchup, the same of browning, a blade 
 or two of mace, one anchovy, a slice of lemon ; boil 
 them all together a quarter of an hour, then strain 
 it through a hair sieve, and thicken it with flour 
 and butter ; send it in a sauce-boat, and parsley 
 sauce in another. Dish up your fish with the tails in 
 the middle ; garnish it with scraped horse-radish 
 and barberries. 
 
 210. MACKEREL FARCED (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take the roes out of four or six mackerel, fill 
 them with a farce of whiting, confine the farce in 
 them, and then marinate the fish in sweet oil, with 
 a sUced onion, parsley, sweet herbs, pepper, and 
 salt. Let them remain for two hours, then drain 
 and broil them carefully over a slow fire, that they 
 
FISH RECIPES 91 
 
 may be done carefully without scorching. Serve 
 with a rich sauce over them. 
 
 211. PICKLED MACKEREL (Essex) 
 
 Six smallish mackerel, four bay leaves, four 
 cloves, one level teaspoonful of peppercorns, one 
 pint vinegar, thyme, parsley, fennel (if possible), 
 salt, and pepper. Fillet the mackerel, wash and 
 dry them, strew over them the herbs finely minced, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Put in a dish with 
 a httle butter, and bake till cooked. Try with a 
 skewer and see if they are done. Boil the vinegar, 
 bay leaves, cloves, and peppercorns together for ten 
 minutes. Stir in a teaspoonful of extract of meat, 
 and when cold, strain the liquor over the fish. Let 
 it stand for several hours before serving, then drain, 
 put on a clean dish, and garnish with parsley. 
 
 212. TO PICKLE MACKEREL (Middlesex) 
 
 Having cut and split the mackerel, cover them 
 with a little thyme, parsley, and shalots, chopped 
 fine : then fry the fish carefully : when done, pour 
 over them some vinegar boiled with black pepper, 
 a few cloves, and three or four bay leaves : this 
 liquor is not to be poured upon them until it is cold. 
 
 Another mode is to cut the fish into pieces, and to 
 cover them well with a mixture of black pepper 
 nutmeg, mace, and salt, reduced to a fine powder : 
 then fry them brown in oil, and when cold put them 
 into a jar, and fill it up with strong vinegar pre- 
 viously boiled. If it is intended to keep them for 
 some months before using, the top of the jar 
 should have a depth of at least an inch of good 
 
92 FISH RECIPES 
 
 sweet oil, and be carefully tied over with parchment. 
 JThis is a rich preparation. The quantities of spices 
 required for six common-sized mackerel are three 
 nutmegs, six blades of mace, and an ounce of black 
 pepper. A good handful of salt should be used. 
 
 213. RED MULLET (Eighteenth Century) 
 The red mullet is the only one worth using, the 
 grey mullet being somewhat poor and coarse. 
 Butter sheets of white paper, sprinkle them with a 
 little salt. Clean the mullet, wipe them dry, and 
 roll each in a separate paper. Broil (or bake) 
 them, and send them to table in the papers, and 
 serve with them a tureen of good melted butter 
 or Italian sauce. 
 
 214 FRIED PERCH OR TROUT (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 When you have scaled, gutted, and washed your 
 perch or trout, dry them well, then lay them separ- 
 ately on a board before the fire for two miautes 
 before you fry them. Dust them well with flour, and 
 fry them a fine brown in roast dripping or rendered 
 suet. Serve them up with melted butter and crisped 
 parsley. 
 
 215. PERCH IN WATER SOKEY (Eighteenth Century) 
 Scale, gut, and wash your perch, put salt in your 
 water : when it boils, put in the fish, with an onion 
 cut in slices, a handful of parsley picked and washed 
 clean and as much milk as will turn the water white ; 
 when your fish are done enough, put them in a soup 
 dish and pour a little of the water over them with 
 the parsley and the onions, then serve them up with 
 
FISH EECIPES 93 
 
 butter and parsley in a boat. Onions may be omitted 
 if you please. You may boil trout the same way. 
 
 216. SALMON IN BROTH (Seventeenth Century) 
 Boil it in wine, water, and vinegar till it be 
 tender, then put it into a piece of butter, which will 
 soak into the fish. Take it out and lay it on a 
 napkin, and eat it with vinegar : you may also 
 make an excellent sauce to it with butter and 
 anchovies. 
 
 217. SALMON CUTLETS (American) 
 Half a can of salmon mashed with a fork, one 
 cup of hot mashed potatoes with salt and pepper 
 to taste ; form into cutlets, dip in egg and bread 
 crumb, and fry in deep lard, or in cooking oil. 
 
 218. PICKLED SALMON (Essex) 
 Boil the salmon in salted water, with two lumps 
 of sugar and one gill of vinegar in it. Let it simmer 
 until done. Then take it out and put into vinegar 
 that has been well spiced with mixed pickling spice 
 and a small piece of ginger. The vinegar must 
 cover the fish. You can keep it thus until required. 
 
 219. ROLLED SALMON (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take a side of salmon ; when it is split, the bone 
 taken out, and scalded, strew over the inside some 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, mace, a few chopped oysters, 
 minced parsley, and bread crumbs. Roll it up 
 tight, put it into a deep jar, and bake it in a quick 
 oven. Pour a good Italian sauce over it before 
 serving. 
 
94 FISH EECIPES 
 
 220. SALMON STEAK WITH CUCUMBER (Yorkshire) 
 Scale the fish and cut some slices about one and 
 a half inches thick, and wipe them perfectly dry. 
 AUow two ounces of good butter, the strained 
 juice of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of white wine, to 
 each pound of fish. Rub the bottom of a stewpan 
 well with butter and lay in the fish, straining the 
 lemon juice over it ; add a little salt. Lay over 
 the fish a buttered paper, then put on the lid 
 and allow twenty minutes for each pound of fish. 
 When the fish is cooked, dish on a hot, dry dish. 
 Garnish with little heaps of cucumber ; round it 
 strain the gravy from the stewpan, through a 
 tammy ; mix with it a tea-spoonful of finely 
 chopped tarragon and chervil, and pour over fish. 
 
 221. SALMON TIMBALES (American) 
 Mash half a tin of salmon. Heat half a cup of 
 cream, add three or four tablespoonfuls of butter. 
 When the butter is melted, add salmon, salt, and 
 pepper to taste. When taken from the fire add 
 two eggs, then put it into buttered cups covered 
 with buttered paper. Stand them in hot water in 
 the oven for twenty minutes. 
 
 222. TO CAVEACH SOLES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Fry your soles either in oil or butter ; boil some 
 vinegar with a little water, two or three blades of 
 mace, a very few cloves, some black pepper, and a 
 little salt ; let it stand till cold, and when cold beat 
 up some oU with it ; lay your fish in a deep jar, and 
 slice a good deal of shalots or onions between each 
 fish ; throw your liquor over it, and pour some oU 
 
FISH EECIPES 95 
 
 on the top. It will keep three or four months, thus 
 made rich and fried in oil ; it must be stoppered well 
 and kept in a dry place. Take out a little at a time 
 when you use it. 
 
 223. SOLOMON GUNDY TO EAT IN LENT 
 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take five or six white herrings, lay them in water 
 all night, boil them as soft as you would do for 
 eating, and shift them in the boiling to take out 
 the saltness. When they are boiled, take the fish 
 from the bone, leaving on the head and taU, and 
 mind you don't break the bones in pieces. Take 
 the white part of the herrings, a quarter of a pound 
 of anchovies, a large apple, a little onion or shalot 
 shred fine, and a little lemon-peel. Shred them aU 
 together, and mix them well, and lay them over 
 the bones on both sides, in the shape of a herring. 
 Then take off the peel of a lemon very thin, and 
 cut in long bits, just so as it will reach over the 
 herrings. You must lay this peel over every herring 
 pretty thick. Garnish with a few pickled oysters, 
 capers, and mushrooms, if you have any. 
 
 224. BAKED SPRATS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Rub your sprats with salt and pepper, and to every 
 two pints of vinegar put one pint of red wine ; dis- 
 solve a pennyworth of cochineal, lay your sprats in a 
 deep earthen dish, pour in as much red wine, vinegar, 
 and cochineal as will cover them, tie a paper over 
 them ; set them in an oven aU night. They wUl eat 
 well and keep for some time. 
 
96 FISH RECIPES 
 
 ' 225. SARDINE SANDWICHES (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Take a dozen good-sized sardines, carefully re- 
 move the skin and backbone, and mash them up 
 very fine with a fork. Add salt, pepper, and 
 vinegar to taste, and mix it well in. Have thin 
 white bread-and-butter cut, spread the mixture 
 thinly over a slice, and cover it with another slice. 
 When sufficient has been prepared, cut off the crust, 
 cut the sandwiches diagonally into little three- 
 cornered pieces not more than two and a half inches 
 long by one and a half wide, and arrange them 
 prettily upon a folded napkin with sprigs of parsley 
 between. This is an enormous improvement upon 
 the ordinary sardine sandwich, and excellent for 
 afternoon tea, etc. Its only fault is that the sand- 
 wiches, which take a good while to prepare, are 
 eaten up so rapidly I 
 
 226. CURRIED SARDINES (Kent) 
 
 One box of sardines ; strain off the oil into a 
 small frying-pan ; add to this a dessertspoonful of 
 curry powder previously mixed with cold water. 
 Thicken the oil with a little arrowroot, previously 
 mixed with water. As soon as the curry and oil 
 are about as thick as good melted butter, the 
 sauce is ready. Pour this over the sardines, and 
 place them in the oven long enough to get heated 
 through. When quite hot, serve with pieces of 
 toast. 
 
 227. SARDINES ON TOAST (Cheshire) 
 
 Divide the sardines lengthwise ; remove the 
 bones, tail, and skin ; put them in the oven between 
 
PISH EECIPES 97 
 
 two hot plates, with a Httle of the oil — let them be 
 quite hot. Cut some thin strips of bread the 
 length of the sardines, fry them in butter, and serve 
 with half a sardine on each. Add a little cayenne 
 and salt and a squeeze of lemon. Serve hot. 
 
 228. SARDINE TOAST (Essex) 
 
 Six sardines, two eggs, cayeime, buttered toast. 
 Scale and bone the sardines, boil the eggs hard 
 and chop them. Lay first the chopped egg on some 
 hot buttered toast, then the sardines seasoned with 
 cayenne, and put in the oven to get hot. 
 
 229. TWICE LAID (Kent) 
 
 Take remains of cold salt fish. Tear it into 
 flakes ; mix it with double its quantity of mashed 
 potatoes. Moisten with milk ; season with pepper 
 and salt, roll into balls ; dip them in egg ; roU 
 them in bread crumbs, and fry them brown. Drain 
 and serve on a folded napkin. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN 
 DISHES 
 
 Note. — Our great-grandmothers had probably never 
 heard of vegetarian diet : our grandmothers and 
 mothers encountered it in a much less acute form 
 than what prevails to-day. Cooked vegetables, up 
 to about the end of the seventeenth century, were 
 held in small esteem, although the peasantry em- 
 ployed them under the compulsion of Hobson's 
 choice. Salad vegetables, uncooked, were largely 
 used in preference. Both are now such staple 
 articles of diet, that one can hardly conceive an 
 adequate meal without them. Meanwhile, vege- 
 tarianism, whether as a matter of medical order, 
 fad, or conviction, is continually on the increase. 
 
 The strict vegetarian of the twentieth century 
 abstains, not only from fish, flesh, and fowl, and 
 from all animal fats, however derived, but, I be- 
 heve, in extreme cases, even from eggs and from 
 milk. This renders his feeding very difficult to deal 
 with, if he take his meals at home. For average 
 vegetarianism, however, undertaken as a matter 
 of expediency rather than conviction, there is a 
 perfect wealth of choice. The main constituents of 
 
 98 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 99 
 
 this embarras de richesse are vegetables and fruits 
 (fresh, dried, or preserved), cereals and farinaceous 
 foods of every kind, nut-foods, eggs, milk, butter, 
 and cheese ad lib. The last article supplies that touch 
 of tastiness (not to mention that amount of concen- 
 trated nutriment) in which so many vegetarian 
 dishes are conspicuously lacking. Among those 
 which follow, will be found many excellent plata, 
 tried and tested, which will serve to vary the 
 monotony of plainer dishes : for it should always be 
 remembered that the vegetarian must make up in 
 bulk for the absence of meat, and monotony ought 
 above all things to be avoided. Nut-foods, which 
 are quite modern, find practically no place here ; 
 but the vegetarian cook is referred to the respective 
 sections upon Egg-Dishes, Cheese Recipes, Salads, 
 Savouries, Puddings, Sweet Dishes, Jams, Pickles, 
 and Sauces, from which she may increase her 
 repertory. 
 
 230. ARTICHOKES WITH CHEESE (Surrey) 
 , Boil two pounds of Jerusalem artichokes, drain, 
 and mash them up with one giU of milk. (Mashed 
 cooked onions are an improvement : and yesterday's 
 onion sauce is an admirable substitute for mUk.) 
 Turn the mixture into a well-buttered baking dish, 
 dust the top well with grated cheese, and bake till 
 the top becomes coloured. 
 
 231. BROAD WINDSOR BEANS PUDDING 
 (Middlesex) 
 
 Broad beans may be made into a pudding by 
 pounding them in a mortar after boiling them and 
 taking off the skins, then seasoning with salt and 
 
100 VEGETABLES AND VEGETAEIAN DISHES 
 
 pepper, and a little butter, and tying them up in a 
 cloth that has been floured and buttered. The 
 pudding must be put into boiling water, and boiled 
 for half an hour. When done, squeeze the water 
 out by pressing the cloth, and take out the pudding, 
 to which you can give any shape you please. Yolks 
 of eggs beaten up, and the crumb of a roll soaked 
 in cream, may be pounded with the beans to make 
 a richer sort of pudding. This may be either 
 boiled in a basin, or baked in an oven. 
 
 232. CABBILOW (Kent, 1809) 
 Mash boiled potatoes and boiled cabbages to- 
 gether, mixing with them slices of onions, and 
 sprinkling the mess with pepper and salt, to which 
 should be added a little butter or dripping. The 
 dish is improved by being put into a Dutch oven 
 to be browned, like mashed potatoes. (See the 
 Irish dish, Kailcannon, No. 241.) 
 
 233. STUFFED CABBAGES (Middlesex) 
 Take two good-sized cabbages, soak them for 
 twenty minutes in scalding water and salt, then 
 dip them in cold water, take out a portion of the 
 centre, fill it with chopped veal and fat bacon 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and other spices, and 
 made into a stuffing with eight yolks of eggs : then 
 tie up the cabbage to keep in the stuffing. Put at 
 the bottom of a saucepan some shoes of bacon, 
 carrots, onions, and sweet herbs : over which place 
 the cabbages, moistening them from time to time 
 with good stock. Let the whole stew over a slow 
 fire for at least an hour and a half, after which drain 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 1 1 
 
 the cabbages, press them a little, and serve them 
 up, without the herbs with which they have been 
 cooked, with Espagnole, or any other such sauce. 
 Remove the strings before serving. 
 
 234. CHESTNUTS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
 (Devonshire) 
 
 Boil some chestnuts in water for two hours ; 
 remove the peel. Boil an equal amount of Brussels 
 sprouts for half an hour, strain them weU ; be care- 
 ful not to break them. Have ready a frying-pan 
 with hot beef dripping or butter, put in both chest- 
 nuts and sprouts, and keep them moving until the 
 fat is absorbed (do not brown them) ; then serve. 
 
 235. CHESTNUT TEA CAKES (Surrey) 
 Take some chestnuts, boil them tUl they burst, 
 throw them into cold water and peel them. Pound 
 them to a dry powder ; add an equal quantity of 
 self-raising flour, butter, eggs, and sugar according 
 to taste and quantity ; mix into a dough with milk, 
 roll out and cut into small round cakes about half 
 an inch thick, and bake in a brisk oven to a light 
 golden-brown. 
 
 236. CUCUMBERS WITH EGGS 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take five large young cucumbers, pare, quarter, 
 and cut them into slices, about the size of dice; 
 put them into boiling water, let them boil up ; then 
 take them out of the water, put them into a stew- 
 pan, with an onion stuck with cloves, a good slice 
 of ham, a quarter-pound of butter, and a little salt ; 
 
102 VEGETABLES AND VEGETAEIAN DISHES 
 
 Bet this over a fire for a quarter of an hour, keep it 
 close covered, skim it well, and shake it often, as it 
 is apt to bum ; then dredge in a little flour, and 
 put in as much gravy as will just cover the cucum- 
 bers ; stir it well together, and keep a gentle 
 fire under it tiU no scum wUl rise ; then take out 
 the ham and onion, put in the yolks of two eggs 
 beaten with a teacupful of good cream ; stir it well 
 for a minute, then take it off the fire, and just 
 before you put it in the dish, squeeze in a little lemon 
 juice. Have ready five or six poached eggs to lay 
 on the top. 
 
 237. FRIED CUCUMBERS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 You must brown some butter in a pan, and pare 
 and sUce (but not too thin) six middling cucumbers. 
 Drain them from the water, then put them into the 
 pan. When they are fried brown, put to them a 
 httle pepper and salt, a lump of butter, a spoonful 
 of vinegar, a little shredded onion, and a little gravy 
 (not to make it too thin), and shake them well to- 
 gether with a little fiour. You may lay these round 
 your mutton as a sauce, or they are proper for a 
 side-dish. 
 
 238. DRIED HARICOT BEANS (Surrey) 
 
 Wash the beans (quantity according to require- 
 ments), and throw away all that float upon the 
 water. Soak them for twelve hours at least (over- 
 night for preference). Put them into cold water 
 shghtly salted, bring slowly to the boil, and let them 
 simmer very gently until quite tender. To improve 
 the flavour, for one pint of beans add twelve ounces 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETAEIAN DISHES 103 
 
 of onions, and a muslin bag of dried herbs : allow- 
 ing three pints of water to boil them in. 
 
 239. A HERB PIE FOR LENT (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take lettuce, leeks, spinach, beets, and parsley, 
 of each a handful, give them a boU, then chop them 
 small. Have ready boiled in a cloth one quart 
 of groats, with two or three onions in them ; put 
 them in a frying-pan with the herbs and a good deal 
 of salt, half a pound of butter, and a few apples cut 
 thin ; stew them a few minutes over the fire, fill your 
 dish or raised crust with it ; one hour will bake it. 
 
 240. HOT POT (Vegetable) (Ireland) 
 One pound of potatoes, one pound of onions, 
 half a pound of good cheese. Slice potatoes, ditto 
 onions, ditto cheese, and fry them separately. Then 
 line a dish with potato and fill in with onions 
 mixed with cheese, pepper, salt, and sage. Cover 
 with the potato to form crust. Bake. To be eaten 
 very hot. If left, the cheese will get hard. 
 
 241. KAILCANNON (Ireland) 
 
 Take some well-boiled potatoes, mash them 
 thoroughly, addiag pepper, salt, and a small piece 
 of butter. Then take a rather less quantity of 
 boiled and chopped greens, or green cabbage, with 
 a little fine chopped onion, mix well, and serve very 
 hot. It can be served in a shape. 
 
 242. BOILED LETTUCES (Middlesex) 
 Wash and put them into boiling water, with a 
 little salt, let them boil until tender ; strain them 
 
104 VEGETABLES AND VEGETAKIAN DISHES 
 
 in a colander, and chop them up ; then put them 
 into a saucepan with some fresh butter, a spoonful 
 of flour, a little nutmeg, salt, and the juice of a 
 lemon ; let the whole boil for a quarter of an hour. 
 This may be varied by omitting the lemon juice, 
 adding some good cream, and thickening with the 
 yolks of two eggs. (This is an excellent plan where 
 lettuces are " bolted " and unsuitable for serving 
 cold. Ed.) 
 
 243. STUFFED LETTUCES (Middlesex) 
 
 Choose some large cabbage lettuces, and having 
 boiled them a quarter of an hour, dip them into cold 
 water and let them drain ; then open the leaves 
 without breaking them, and fill the centre part with 
 a good forcemeat, and tie them up ; stew them for 
 a short time, then drain them on a cloth, dip them 
 in a batter, and fry to a good colour. When done, 
 cover them with bread crumbs, and serve with some 
 white sauce. 
 
 244 MACARONI RISSOLES (Kent) 
 
 Take one teacupful of butter beans, which have 
 been boiled till they are quite soft, half a teacupful 
 of boiled macaroni, half a teacupful of cold mashed 
 potatoes, the yolks of two eggs, pepper and salt, 
 half a teacupful of brown bread crumbs — that is to 
 say, the crumbs of bread which has been browned 
 and dried in the oven. Cut the macaroni up into 
 small pieces ; mash the beans and potatoes ; mix 
 all together with half the quantity of breadcrumbs, 
 bind them with the yolk of the egg, and shape them 
 into small balls. Roll the balls in bread crumbs, 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETAEIAN DISHES 105 
 
 fry them a deep golden brown, and serve very hot. 
 They are very nice with bacon at breakfast, or they 
 will take the place of a vegetable at lunch-time. 
 
 245. MACARONI WITH TOMATOES (Kent) 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni in 
 water till tender ; turn it out on to a dish, add pepper 
 and salt, garnish with fresh tomatoes that have been 
 baked in the oven with a little butter. Shake over 
 the whole some grated Parmesan cheese, and serve 
 very hot. It should have a light, cobwebby appear- 
 ance, which is obtained by the cheese being dredged 
 in while the macaroni is very hot, and therefore 
 melting quickly. 
 
 246. MAIZE (American) 
 
 Strip the grain from the young cob, boil it like 
 peas : drain it, toss in some melted butter, salt, 
 and pepper, and serve very hot, sprinkled with 
 chopped parsley. When green maize is not pro- 
 curable (though it can easily be grown as a gar- 
 den vegetable) the tinned preparations called 
 Succotash, and Wyndham Corn, though not so 
 cheap, make useful dishes, and supply a change 
 from the more hackneyed vegetables. 
 
 247. BAKED MUSHROOMS (Surrey) 
 Carefully peel the mushrooms, and put them, 
 hoUow-side uppermost, on a buttered baking-sheet ; 
 fill the cavities with butter, and set in a moderately 
 hot oven. They should be ready in about twelve 
 minutes. It will be seen that they must be fairly 
 whole mushrooms, not stale or broken ones. 
 
106 VEGETABLE SAND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 248. FRICASSEED MUSHROOMS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Peel and scrape the inside of the mushrooms, 
 throw them into salt and water ; if buttons, rub them 
 with flannel ; take them and boil them with fresh 
 salt and water. When they are tender, put in a little 
 shredded parsley, and an onion stuck with cloves, and 
 toss them up with a good lump of butter rolled in 
 flour. You may put in three spoonfuls of thick cream, 
 and a little nutmeg cut in pieces, but take care to 
 take out the nutmeg and onion before you serve it 
 at the table. You may leave out the parsley, and 
 add a glass of wine if you like. 
 
 249. MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN (Ireland) 
 
 Take eight or ten large cup mushrooms. Cut off 
 all the stalks and peel them, and also peel very care- 
 fully the cup-hke part of the mushroom, so as not 
 to hurt the rim. Next scoop out the inside of these 
 cups, and chop it up with the stalk of the mush- 
 rooms. Take a piece of shalot about as big as a 
 large nut, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
 and a very little chopped thyme, with a little cayenne 
 pepper. Add about three ounces of scraped bacon, 
 fat and lean. Put all over the flre, and fry for a 
 time. If the mass is too dry, it shows there is not 
 enough bacon-fat ; if it be too moist, add bread- 
 crumbs. Fill the cups of the mushrooms with this 
 mixture, and shake over some fine bread-raspings. 
 Place the cups so prepared in a covered stewpan, 
 with some butter or oil, and let them cook very 
 gently till the cup part of the mushroom is quite 
 tender. Serve hot, with toast, either plain, or with 
 some rich brown gravy poured round them. 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 107 
 
 260. SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS (Middlesex) 
 
 Put the mushrooms mto a saucepan with fresh 
 butter, chopped parsley, shalots, and a few mush- 
 rooms, also chopped up ; moisten them from time 
 to time, with a little butter and water, mixed with 
 flour, and stew them gently for about half an hour, 
 then put them into scallop-shells or a dish, covered 
 with crumbs of bread. Put them over a charcoal 
 fire for a short time, and brown with a salamander. 
 
 25L MUSHROOM POWDER (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take about half a peck of large buttons or flaps, 
 clean them (but you must not wash them), and set 
 them one by one in an earthen dish or dripping 
 pan. Let them stand in a slow oven to dry until 
 they will beat to a powder, and when they are 
 powdered, sift them through a sieve. Take half 
 a quarter of an ounce of mace and a nutmeg, beat 
 and grate them very flne, and mix them with your 
 mushroom powder. Bottle it, and it will be fit for 
 use. 
 
 252. BAKED ONIONS (Surrey) 
 
 Put four or five Spanish onions, with their skins 
 on, in a saucepan of salted water ; let them boil 
 quickly for one hour. Then take them out, dry 
 them thoroughly, wrap each one separately in a 
 piece of buttered paper (or a paper bag) and bake 
 them in a moderate oven for two hours or longer. 
 Remove the paper and serve the onions in their 
 skins. 
 
108 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 253. RISOTTO (Lancashire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of rice, a small onion, some 
 stock, salt, pepper, butter, grated Parmesan cheese. 
 Chop up the onion and fry it in butter. Put the 
 rice in a saucepan with the stock and fried onion, 
 and boil gently until the rice is tender and has 
 absorbed all the stock. Stir in the cheese, salt, and 
 pepper, and serve very hot. 
 
 254. RISOTTO FOR TWO PERSONS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One onion, two ounces of rice, boiled in stock, 
 two tomatoes put through a sieve, one ounce of 
 grated cheese. Cut the onion in rings and fry in 
 butter, till pale yellow. Strain all, and add the 
 cheese just before serving. 
 
 255. TO BOIL PARSNIPS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Wash your parsnips well, boil them till they are 
 soft, then take off the skin, beat them in a bowl with a 
 a httle salt, put to them a httle cream and a lump 
 of butter ; put them in a tossiag-pan, and let them 
 boil till they are like a custard pudding ; put them on 
 a plate, and serve them up. 
 
 256. PARSNIPS FRIED TO LOOK LIKE TROUT 
 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take a middling sort of parsnips, not over thick, 
 and boil them as soft as you would do for eating ; 
 peel, and cut them in two the long way. You must 
 only fry the small ends, not the thick ones. Beat two 
 or three eggs, put to them a tablespoonful of flour, 
 dip in your parsnips, and fry them a hght brown in 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 109 
 
 butter. Have for your sauce a little vinegar and 
 butter. 
 
 257. JUGGED PEAS (Surrey) 
 
 This is one of the best ways to cook peas, 
 whether fresh, tinned, or bottled. Shell a pint 
 of peas, put them into a clean two-pound pickle 
 bottle or any jar with a closely-fitting top, adding 
 a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of powdered 
 sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, a dozen mint leaves, 
 (and, at discretion, a very little black pepper). 
 Cover the vessel tightly, and immerse it, to the 
 extent of half its depth, in a pan of boihng water. 
 Set the latter on the fire and boil briskly. Examine 
 in half an hour : the peas, if very young, should be 
 done by then ; if old, they will of course take longer. 
 
 258. PEAS PUDDING (Ireland) 
 
 Put a quart of dried peas rather loosely into a 
 cloth, put them down in cold water slowly to boil 
 till tender — good peas will take about two hours 
 and a half. Rub through a sieve, adding an egg, 
 an ounce of butter, some pepper and salt, and beat 
 them well for about ten minutes. Flour the cloth, 
 and tie the pudding tight as possible, and boil an 
 hour longer. (Dried peas should always be soaked 
 over-night for at least twelve hours.) 
 
 259. PEAS PUDDING HOT (Ireland) 
 
 This is an old recjpe for peas pudding, to accom- 
 pany cold pork. Put a breakfastcupful of split peas 
 in a cloth : tie loosely to allow for swelling, and 
 
110 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 boil fast for three hours in salted water. Turn out 
 and serve with melted butter. 
 
 260. STEWED PEAS (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take a quart of young peas, wash them, and put 
 them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, three cabbage lettuces cut small, five or six 
 young onions, with a little thyme, parsley, pepper, 
 and salt, and let them stew all together for a quarter 
 of an hour ; then put to them a pint of gravy, with 
 two or three shoes of bacon or ham, and let them 
 stew aU together tiU the peas are done enough ; then 
 thicken them with a quarter of a pound of butter 
 rolled in flour. 
 
 261. BROWNED POTATOES WITH CHEESE 
 (Surrey) 
 
 Boil some potatoes in their " jackets," but do not 
 let them fall to pieces. Remove peel, and pare 
 them tiU all are the same size. Have a Uttle butter 
 melted in a bowl, dip them in this, then roll them 
 in grated cheese, seasoned with pepper and salt. 
 Put them in a buttered tin in a good oven, and 
 when the cheese has coloured, serve " hot and hot." 
 
 262. CREAMED POTATOES (Kent) 
 
 Take six large potatoes, one ounce of butter, 
 a quarter of a pint of milk, the juice of half a lemon, 
 pepper, and salt. Peel the potatoes and boil them 
 for about five minutes, in order to make them a 
 little tender, but not at all breakable. Cut them 
 up into slices about a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Melt the butter in a small saucepan, throw in the 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES HI 
 
 potatoes and stir them till they are well buttered, 
 but not brown. Add the milk, pepper, and salt. 
 Let the whole simmer tiU the slices of potato grow 
 tender, and the sauce in which they are simmering 
 is a Uttle thickened. Then take the pan off the 
 fire, add the lemon-juice, take out the slices of 
 potato and range them on a dish. Boil up the 
 sauce again with a pinch of flour to thicken it, pour 
 it over the potato and serve at once. 
 
 263. CURRIED POTATOES (Hertfordshire) 
 Fry in dripping an onion, cut into thin slices. 
 Cut up some boiled potatoes, and fry with the onion, 
 dredge them with curry-powder, and add a little 
 gravy, salt, and some lemon juice, if you have it. 
 Allow this to stew for a quarter of an hour, and 
 serve. 
 
 264. SEETHED POTATOES (Kent, 1809) 
 A number of small potatoes, or large potatoes 
 cut in sUces, are put into a cast-iron pot without a 
 lid, with a sprinkling of salt, to which is sometimes 
 added a small piece of butter. The pot without a 
 lid is hung upon the crane which is found in the 
 chimney of every cottage in Scotland, so as to be 
 considerably above the fire, and to heat very slowly. 
 No person who has not eaten potatoes prepared in 
 this manner can conceive how deUcious they are. 
 
 265. POTATO SANDERS (Surrey) 
 Mix with cold boiled potatoes, mashed up or 
 passed through a sieve, enough flour to make a 
 paste [i.e. nearly half their weight in flour). Dripping 
 
112 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 rubbed in, — about four ounces to the pound — will 
 greatly improve the paste : but will be debarred 
 from the strict vegetarian. Roll out the paste about 
 half an inch thick, and cut it in small squares. Soak 
 some bread crumbs in a very little water, just enough 
 to moisten them well : mix in with them some 
 minced parsley, herbs, a little minced onion, salt 
 (see " Vegetable Goose," No. 273). Put a little of 
 this mixture into each square of paste, roU up, and 
 bake as a sausage roll. 
 
 266. STEWED POTATOES (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take a pipkin, having a lid made to fit close. Lay 
 in it one or two or more rows of potatoes, with 
 the skins scraped off, and cut into slices. Sprinlde 
 a little pepper and salt over them. Then lay a 
 row of onions, then, i£ it can be afforded, a mutton 
 chop. Then let there be layers of potatoes, onions, 
 with pepper and salt and mutton, until the pipkin 
 is filled. If mutton cannot be afforded, use a very 
 small portion of dripping or mutton suet ; add a 
 teacupful of water. Put the pipkin, with the lid 
 on, covered with a piece of linen cloth, into a pan 
 of water, without a lid. Let the water boU very 
 slowly, or rather simmer, for five or six hours. 
 Potatoes, when thus prepared, afford a most savoury 
 and nourishing meal. 
 
 267. POTATOES WITH WHITE SAUCE (Middlesex) 
 
 Put into a saucepan a small slice of butter, with 
 
 a little flour, diluted with a little stock : to which 
 
 add some salt and pepper, and thicken it over the 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 113 
 
 fire ; having boiled the potatoes, peeled them, and 
 cut them into shoes, pour this sauce over them, 
 and serve hot. To vary the flavour, some minced 
 capers or a little chopped parsley may be added to 
 the sauce. 
 
 268. TO STEW SPINACH (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Wash your spinach well in several waters, put it 
 in a colander, have ready a large pan of boiling 
 water, with a handful of salt, put it in, let it boil two 
 minutes, it wiU take off the strong earthy taste ; 
 then put it into a sieve, squeeze it well. Put a quarter 
 of a pound of butter in a tossing-pan, put in your 
 spinach, keep turning and chopping it with a knife 
 until it is quite dry and green ; lay it upon a plate, 
 press it with another, cut it in the shape of sippets 
 or diamonds, pour round it very rich melted butter. 
 It will eat exceedingly mild, and with quite a 
 different taste from the common way. 
 
 269. SPINACH WITH POACHED EGGS 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take two or three handfuls of young spinach, 
 pick it from the stalks, wash and drain it very 
 clean, put it into a pan with a lump of butter and a 
 little salt, and keep stirring it aU the time till it be 
 done enough, then take it out and squeeze out the 
 water. Chop it and add a little more butter, lay it 
 in your dish in quarters, and betwixt every quarter 
 (sic) a poached egg, and one in the middle. Fry 
 some sippets of white bread and put them into your 
 spinach, so serve it up. 
 8 
 
114 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 270. SUCCOTASH (American) 
 
 Have green maize freshly cut, and take the cobs 
 cleanly out of the outer leaves, etc. Add an equal 
 quantity of soaked butter beans or haricot beans. 
 Put them into a saucepan with only just enough 
 water to cover them ; let them simmer tOl perfectly 
 tender, then pour off the water and pour in the same 
 amount of milk. Let the vegetables stew a little 
 more, then add pepper and salt and a teaspoonful 
 of cornflour mixed smooth in a little cold milk, and 
 a lump of butter about as big as a large walnut. 
 Mix well, let all boU up once, and serve very hot. 
 
 271. SCALLOPED TOMATOES (Sussex) 
 
 Put alternate layers of tomatoes and bread crumb 
 in a pie-dish. Let the top layer be of tomato. 
 Sprinkle bits of butter over. Season well and baie. 
 
 272. VEGETABLE CURRY (Kent) 
 
 Cut onions into thin slices, and fry a good brown 
 in butter ; add a breakfast cup of milk in which a 
 teaspoonful of curry has been mixed. Let all boil 
 together for twenty minutes, stirring the whole 
 time. Then add the vegetables, — previously par- 
 boiled — and let all simmer for an hour. Potatoes, 
 peas, beans, carrots, and turnips may be used. 
 Broad beans alone make a delicious curry. 
 
 273. VEGETABLE GOOSE (Surrey) 
 
 Soak half a pound of bread crumbs in cold water, 
 squeeze them nearly dry and mash them. Mix in 
 one onion chopped small, one teaspoonful chopped 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 115 
 
 parsley and herbs, one ounce of butter, pepper and 
 salt to taste. Put in a buttered dish and bake in 
 good oven for about one hour. 
 
 274. VEGETABLE HOT POT (Kent) 
 
 Take two large potatoes, one stick of celery, one 
 large carrot, one large onion, butter, pepper, and 
 salt. Slice the vegetables, put them in layers in 
 a pie-dish, with a layer of potatoes at the top. Pour 
 in sufficient boiling water to cover them. Set the 
 dish in a cool oven and let it simmer for one and a 
 half hours. Lay little pieces of butter on the top, 
 and serve very hot. This method of cooking the 
 vegetables preserves the flavour far better than 
 boiling would do. 
 
 275. VEGETABLE PIE (Surrey 
 
 Required, one onion, one carrot, one turnip, one 
 stick of celery, one handful of green peas (if in 
 season), half an ounce of sago, one ounce of butter, 
 pepper and salt, pie-crust. Gut all the vegetables 
 small, and stew them with the sago and butter in a 
 very little water until nearly cooked. Then put 
 them in a pie-dish, cover with crust, and bake about 
 half an hour. Any other vegetables may be used 
 at pleasure. Mushrooms are always an improve- 
 ment. 
 
 276. VEGETABLE-MARROW AU GRATIN (Sussex) 
 
 Take some very small marrows, slice them in 
 rounds about half an inch thick, and lay them in a 
 
116 VEGETABLES AND VEGETARIAN DISHES 
 
 pie-dish. Pour tomato sauce over tUl they are 
 hidden, then cover with bread crumbs and grated 
 cheese, and sprinkle httle bits of butter over. Bake 
 in a good oven until you find the marrow tender on 
 trying it with a fork. 
 
CHAPTER Vn 
 SALADS 
 
 Note. — Although our ancestors were exceedingly 
 fond of salads, and mcluded much more under 
 this head than we ever dream of using — they 
 rarely troubled to write down any formal recipe. 
 Their gardens were full of " salletings," — not only 
 lettuce, cucumber, radish, mustard, cress, water- 
 cress, beet, celery, onions, and " love-apples " 
 (tomatoes) — but a great many salad-plants of which 
 we in England now hardly know the names. A 
 sorrel-bed was a common thing — for sorrel, as 
 Evelyn observed, " imparts so grateful a quickness 
 to the salad that it should never be left out." 
 Chervil, purslane, bumet, lambs' lettuce, " small- 
 mustard," tarragon, dandelion, and various other 
 plants, were welcome ingredients in the salad-bowl. 
 And I conjecture that these wise folk also included 
 cold cooked potatoes, old or new, cold cooked 
 onions, and any such left-over vegetable odds and 
 ends. Their salad dressings would seem to have 
 been quite simple — oil, pepper, and vinegar, salt 
 and mustard, plus an occasional hard-boiled yolk 
 and a spoonful of cream. For the most part, I 
 imagine, they did not bother about dressings at all. 
 They preferred uncooked to cooked vegetables, as 
 has already been said, and the mere plain green 
 
 117 
 
118 SALADS 
 
 foodstuffs sufficed them. The Mayonnaise Sauce 
 recipe given on page 120 will be found particularly 
 good. 
 
 277. APPLE SALAD (Sussex) 
 
 Two cupfuls of sour apple, half a cupful of celery, 
 half a cupful of English walnuts, two tablespoonfuls 
 of salad dressing, one cupful of whipped cream, one 
 teaspoonful of sugar. Salt and pepper. 
 
 278. CHEESE SALAD (Sussex) 
 
 Rub the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with a dessert- 
 spoonful of butter, add salt, sugar, pepper, mustard, 
 about half a pound of grated cheese, and a dessert- 
 spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 279. ENDIVE SALAD (Middlesex) 
 
 Take some fine white endives, carefully wash and 
 drain them, and lay them in a salad-bowl. Chop 
 some shalots, wash them in several waters, and 
 squeeze out the water in a cloth. Add them to the 
 endive, together with some chopped tarragon, 
 chervil, and burnet. Season with thin mayonnaise 
 sauce, and add two finely chopped Chili capsicums. 
 
 280. GERMAN SALAD (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One tablespoonful of salad oil, one and a half 
 tablespoonfuls light claret, one ounce chopped 
 onion, one teaspoonful French mustard, one table- 
 spoonful of white wine, the yolk of one boiled egg, 
 passed through sieve. Take boiled potatoes, sliced 
 beetroot in dice, sliced cucumber ; mix all together. 
 
SALADS 119 
 
 281. HARICOT SALAD (Kent) 
 
 One pint of white haricots, well boiled. Sprinkle 
 over them one teaspoonful of salt, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper ; add a very finely-chopped onion, 
 or a few drops of shalot vinegar, one tablespooniul 
 of vinegar, two of oil, and sprinkling of very finely 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 282. WINTER SALAD (Surrey) 
 
 Take some white haricot beans, French beans, 
 potatoes, beetroot, and onions. Blanch all the 
 vegetables separately, cool, and drain them. Chop 
 the onions, and put them in the corner of a cloth ; 
 dip this in cold water, and press the water out of 
 the onion. Do this two or three times, which will 
 render the onion more digestible. Cut the potatoes 
 and beetroots in half -inch discs. Put all into a 
 salad-bowl, adding some chopped chervil ; season 
 with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and mix the 
 whole well. 
 
 283. WINTER SALAD (Middlesex) 
 
 Cut up small some endive and celery, add two 
 tablespoonfuls of russet apples cut into dice. Stir 
 well and cover these with half a pound of grated 
 nuts, and mix mayonnaise sauce with the whole. 
 
 284. SALAD DRESSING (Kent) 
 Take the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs ; bruise 
 them very carefully until they are in a fine powder, 
 entirely free from lumps. Then add gradually a 
 tablespooniul (or a little more, according to taste) 
 of the best salad oil, and stir it well until it is the 
 
120 SALADS 
 
 consistence of a smooth paste ; then add a table- 
 spoonful of freshly mixed mustard. After this is 
 well mixed, stir in very gradually two tablespoonfuls 
 of white vinegar and a teaspoonful of Chili vinegar ; 
 then add a little salt, a few grains of cayenne pepper 
 and a few drops of anchovy sauce. When these 
 are all weU mixed, stir in gradually a large tea- 
 cupful or more of good sweet cream. Add a small 
 lump of sugar. This mixture wiU keep a week if 
 well corked. It is thicker and better if used the 
 day after it is made. 
 
 285. CHEAP SALAD DRESSING (Ireland) 
 
 Take one hard-boiled egg, one tablespoonful of 
 flour, the same of vinegar (or more ad lib), one 
 breakfastcupful of milk, one dessertspoonful of 
 butter, one teaspoonful of mustard, a pinch of salt, 
 a little sugar. Blend the flour and milk. Blend 
 to a paste, in separate bowl, a hot yolk of egg, 
 with butter, mustard, and salt. Then add blended 
 milk and flour. Boil the mixture, keeping it stirred 
 until it thickens. When cold, add vinegar to it : 
 and if still too thick, put a little cold milk. The 
 white of an egg can be chopped up and added, or 
 used for decoration. 
 
 286. MAYONNAISE SAUCE (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Whisk the yolks of six eggs, add to them one 
 dessertspoonful of made mustard, one saltspoonful 
 of salt, and a pinch of cayenne, stirring all the time. 
 Put them into an enamelled saucepan, then add a 
 quarter of a pint of salad oil, whisking all the time ; 
 next, a quarter of a pint of milk or cream, one table- 
 
SALADS 121 
 
 spoonful of vinegar, and the same of Worcester 
 sauce. Last, add a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Con- 
 tinue to stir gently all the time you are mixing, or 
 the sauce will curdle. Now put the saucepan over 
 a slow fire and whisk until it becomes thick. It 
 must not boil. Take it off the fire, continue stirring 
 gently till it cools. Then put it into wide-mouthed 
 bottles, cork closely, and it will keep two or three 
 months. (This is a yacht steward's recipe, and 
 most excellent.) 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 CHEESE DISHES 
 
 Note. — The vast majority of cheese-made dishes 
 are quite modern. Either cheese, in former days, 
 was eaten to the very rind, careless of its hard- 
 ness, staleness, or " blue-vinny " appearance : or 
 it was little esteemed as a combined flavouring and 
 nutriment when used in small quantities along with 
 vegetables, eggs, etc. Nowadays it is not only, in 
 grated form, a chief ingredient of many vegetarian 
 dishes, but a most valuable adjunct to all sorts of 
 home-made savouries. And as these recipes afford 
 the means of utihsing odd bits of hard, dry cheese, 
 the careful cook will gladly avail herself of them. 
 I have included one form of serving cheese, which 
 will be found exceedingly palatable, simple, and 
 digestible : the " Creamed Cheese," No. 288. No one 
 who has ever tried this is likely to revert to the 
 toasted cheeses and " Welsh Rabbits " which he 
 (or she) has so frequently relished — and regretted. 
 
 287. CHEESE BISCUITS (Sussex) 
 
 Take nine ounces of flour, six ounces of grated 
 cheese, three ounces of butter, one or two table- 
 spoonfuls of milk, two eggs, pepper, and salt. Roll 
 out very thin and bake fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 122 
 
CHEESE DISHES 123 
 
 288. CREAMED CHEESE (Cheshire) 
 
 This is the simplest, easiest, most digestible, 
 and economical, way of serving " Welsh Rabbit," 
 and one very little known at all. Scrape or thinly 
 flake some cheese iato a breakfa/St-cup or small 
 bowl, until it is three-parts full. FiU it up with 
 boiling water, cover it with a saucer, stand it on a 
 hob, or stove, or in the fender before an open fire, 
 for about ten minutes. At the end of that time, 
 pour off the water (with which will go all the oily 
 matter of the cheese) and you will find the cheese 
 like a thick cream at the bottom. Pour this upon 
 a piece of hot toast upon a hot plate, pepper and 
 salt it to taste, and serve. The above quantity is 
 enough for one person. Canadian Cheddar will 
 serve, though English Cheddar is better. As a 
 lunch or supper dish it is most excellent. 
 
 289. COTTAGE CREAM CHEESE (Rutlandshire) 
 
 Take some milk which has gone sour suddenly, 
 and reduce it to curds and whey by boiling. Place 
 the curd on a cloth to drain thoroughly, and when 
 it is dry as you can get it, press it down tightly in 
 a wooden box, with clean fresh hazel leaves laid 
 here and there in layers. Keep a good weight upon 
 the top of the curd, and turn it when thoroughly 
 dry. It will be fit to eat in a couple of days. 
 
 290. CHEESE FRITTERS (Stissex) 
 
 Take two tablespoonfuls of flour, a little made 
 mustard, cayenne pepper, salt, one egg, and one 
 ounce of Parmesan cheese. Add as much milk as 
 will make it into a stifE batter. Heat some lard 
 
124 CHEESE DISHES 
 
 very hot, and drop the batter into it a spoonful 
 at a time. The fritters should be a golden brown 
 when done. 
 
 291. MACARONI CHEESE (Boiled) (Isle of Wight) 
 Half a pound of tomatoes, one tablespoonful curry 
 powder, a quarter of a pound of macaroni, two ounces 
 butter, salt and pepper, two ounces grated cheese. 
 Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, boil it 
 thirty minutes, and drain it. Scald the tomatoes, 
 peel and slice them. Put the butter in a saucepan 
 to melt, add sliced tomatoes, and macaroni, stir 
 well together, add pinch of salt and curry powder. 
 Lastly, with two forks, stir in the grated cheese for 
 five minutes, then serve. 
 
 292. MACARONI CHEESE AND TOMATOES 
 (Devonshire) 
 
 Half a pound of macaroni, one pound of tomatoes, 
 two ounces cheese (Parmesan), two ounces Gruyere, 
 half an ounce of butter, one shalot, pepper, salt, 
 browned bread crumbs. Wash the macaroni, cut it 
 up into small pieces and boil it in salted water tiU 
 tender. Scald the tomatoes, and then they will 
 easily peel ; slice them, chop the shalot finely, 
 place the various ingredients respectively in layers 
 in a greased pie-dish. The last layer must be the 
 macaroni. Then on the top put a little grated 
 cheese, the brown bread crumbs, and the butter. 
 Bake half an hour in a brisk oven. 
 
 293. CHEESE PUDDING (Isle of Wight) 
 Two ounces of grated cheese, two ounces of bread- 
 crumbs, one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful made 
 
CHEESE DISHES 125 
 
 mustard, half a gill of milk, one egg, cayenne pepper, 
 salt. Put butter and milk into saucepan, make 
 quite hot, pour over crumbs and cheese, then add 
 yolk of egg and mustard mixed. Whip white of egg 
 and add lastly, or it may be pUed on the top (when 
 pudding is cooked) with a little grated cheese, and 
 just set. Bake pudding twenty minutes. 
 
 294. CHEESE PUDDING (Kent) 
 
 Two eggs, half a teacupful of cream or good milk, 
 and a Uttle salt and pepper. Two large tablespoon- 
 fuls of grated cheese. Mix all together, and bake 
 for twenty minutes in quick oven. 
 
 295. CHEESE PUDDINGS (Surrey) 
 
 (1) Grate three ounces of cheese, mix with two 
 ounces of bread crumbs, two weU-beaten eggs, one 
 and a half pints of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 
 and a squeeze of lemon juice. Bake in a well- 
 buttered dish from a half to three-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 (2) Three ounces of grated cheese, three ounces 
 of bread crumbs, a Mttle made mustard, salt to taste. 
 Pour over as much boiling milk as it will absorb, 
 and two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a buttered pie- 
 dish about twenty minutes, and serve immediately 
 and very hot. 
 
 (3) One teacupful of milk, one teaspoonful of 
 flour, one well-beaten egg, one ounce creamed 
 butter, four ounces of grated cheese. Mix well, and 
 bake ten to fifteen minutes. To be served and eaten 
 at once. 
 
126 CHEESE DISHES 
 
 296. GLOUCESTER RABBIT 
 
 Make some buttered toast, cut it into rounds or 
 squares, put it to keep hot in the oven. Put half 
 an ounce of butter in a small saucepan to melt, stir 
 in two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, half a small 
 teacupful of milk and two tablespoonfuls of fresh 
 bread crumbs — enough to make it as thick as 
 cream. Add salt and pepper, pour the mixture on 
 to the toast, and serve it immediately. 
 
 297. RAMAKINS (Surrey) 
 
 Beat up two eggs thoroughly, add in two ounces 
 of grated cheese, two tablespoonfuls of cream or 
 mUk, one teaspoonful of flour (mixed smooth first iu 
 a drop of milk). Pepper and salt to taste. While 
 you are doing this, cream two ounces of butter in 
 a cup, on the stove or in the oven, and add that 
 last : mix all well together, pour into buttered 
 patty-pans, and bake a quarter of an hour or twenty 
 minutes in a good hot oven. The ramakins should 
 be a golden brown. These never faU to please. 
 
 298. CHEESE STRAWS (Essex) 
 
 Rub one and a half ounces of butter into three 
 ounces of flour, with the finger-tips. Add one and 
 a half ounces of American Cheddar, grated, quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of baking powder, a little cayenne, 
 a small pinch of salt, and a little water, enough to 
 mix it into a very dry dough. Roll it out an eighth 
 of an inch thick, and cut it into sticks two and a 
 half inches long. Bake it like pastry, but don't 
 let it colour. 
 
CHEESE DISHES 127 
 
 299. CHEESE STRAWS (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, one 
 yolk of egg, three ounces of cheese (two ounces of 
 Parmesan and one ounce of Cheddar), one table- 
 spoonful of cold water, cayenne pepper, salt. Rub 
 the butter into the flour, add the grated cheese, 
 pepper, and salt, mix to the consistency of pastry 
 with the yolk and water ; roll out, and cut into rings 
 and straws, allowing six straws to one ring. When 
 served, the straws are placed through the rings. 
 Bake a short while in a quick oven. 
 
 300. CHEESE STRAWS (Kent) 
 
 Two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, two 
 ounces of breadcrumbs, two ounces of grated cheese, 
 half small saltspoonful of mixed salt and cayenne ; 
 mix all to a paste, roll it out quarter of an inch ia 
 thickness ; cut it into narrow strips, lay them on 
 a sheet of paper, and bake for a few minutes. Ar- 
 range the straws on a napkin and serve hot. 
 
 301. CHEESE STRAWS (Staffordshire) 
 
 Half pound of dried flour, quarter poiind of butter, 
 quarter pound of grated cheese, teaspoonful mus- 
 tard, cayenne, saltspoonful of salt. Rub butter 
 into the flour, and then mix the whole well to- 
 gether. Beat the whites of two eggs with half a pint 
 of cold water, and stir in enough to form a firm paste. 
 Knead it well. Roll it out the eighth of an inch 
 thick, and cut it into straw-like strips, about five 
 inches long. Bake in a quick oven a pale brown 
 
128 CHEESE DISHES 
 
 colour — about five minutes. Pile them on a dish 
 prettily, and serve hot or cold. Must be kept in 
 a dry place. 
 
 302. CHEESE STRAWS (Siirrey) 
 
 Three ounces of flour, two ounces of butter, the 
 yolk of one egg, three ounces of grated cheese, 
 cayenne, and salt. Rub the butter into the flour, 
 add the cheese and seasoning. Mix iato a stiff 
 paste with the yolk of egg. Roll out and cut into 
 narrow strips about two inches long. Bake a pale 
 fawn colour on a greased tin or baking sheet. To 
 be served hot. 
 
 303. CHEESE STRAWS (Yorkshire) 
 
 Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese into a 
 bowl. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a little cayeime, 
 and two ounces of flour, and rub in two ounces of 
 butter. Make the ingredients into a stiff paste 
 with the yolk of one egg, cut them about five 
 inches long, and bake them. When they are a pale 
 brown colour they are done. They will take about 
 ten minutes. 
 
 304. CROUSTADES (Yorkshire) 
 
 Make a good paste, roll it out very thin, line small 
 patty pans or moulds with it. Grate two ounces 
 Parmesan cheese into a basin, and mix with it 
 one ounce warmed (but not oiled) butter, the yolks 
 of two eggs and white of one, a saltspoonful of salt, 
 and a pinch of cayenne. If the eggs are small, 
 three yolks will be required instead of two. Put a 
 small spoonful of the mixture into the pans, and 
 
CHEESE DISHES 129 
 
 bake in a moderate oven. When they are set and 
 the pastry is lightly coloured, they are done enough. 
 
 305. STEWED CHEESE (Surrey) 
 
 Take four ounces of grated cheese, two ounces of 
 butter, one tablespoonful of cream ; stir them to- 
 gether in a saucepan until nearly boihng. Add the 
 beaten-up yolk of an egg, stir well, and pour the 
 mixture upon a very hot dish. Serve with dry hot 
 toast. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 EGG DISHES 
 
 Note. — Countless as are the various methods 
 of serving eggs, there yet seems room for more. 
 As is pointed out in the Cakes section, our 
 grandmothers used eggs v/ith what we should con- 
 sider reckless extravagance, merely as ingredients 
 in made dishes. They do not appear to have 
 considered eggs seriously as articles of food. How- 
 ever, a few interesting egg-disKes are here set forth, 
 which will help towards the (always too mono- 
 tonous) breakfast and luncheon table, or towards 
 the enlargement of the vegetarian menu. 
 
 Eggs have been divided by a humorist into seven 
 classes : viz. 
 
 New-laid Eggs. 
 Breakfast Eggs. 
 Fresh Eggs. 
 Cooking Eggs. 
 Shop Eggs. 
 Election Eggs. 
 Eggs. 
 
 And nowadays, when the origin of those harmless 
 necessary edibles is so frequently " wrop in mystery," 
 it behoves one to be exceedingly careful. You 
 should break all eggs, of whose antecedents you 
 
 130 
 
EGG DISHES 131 
 
 are not absolutely certain, one by one into separate 
 cups, lest a single tainted specimen should ruin all. 
 And it is usually cheaper, in the long run, to procure 
 the best eggs only ; for those coming under the 
 category of cooking eggs are hardly ever to be 
 depended on. We are not of the same mind as 
 those Tartar tribes who bury their eggs in the earth 
 till they shall be " high " enough to suit the tribal 
 tastes ; and even the notorious " curate's egg," 
 which was " good in parts," displeases our fastidious 
 fancy. It is therefore advisable to lay in a stock 
 of eggs when they are cheap and plentiful, and to 
 preserve them against the dear days, first testing 
 each by any of the different recognized methods. 
 
 306. BAKED EGGS (Kent) 
 
 Beat up four eggs well. To each egg allow two 
 tablespoonfuls of new milk and half a teaspoonful 
 of fine-chopped parsley ; season with pepper and 
 salt to taste. Melt some butter (or dripping) in an 
 enamelled pie-dish ; pour in mixture, and bake 
 quickly in a quick oven. 
 
 307. BIRDS' NESTS (Essex) 
 
 Boil four eggs eleven minutes, let them get quite 
 cold, then shell the eggs and coat them over with 
 egg, and roll in sausage meat. Drop them in a pan 
 with plenty of lard, and brown them well. Lift 
 them up and drain them, nut them in halves, and 
 serve on buttered toast. These are very nice eaten 
 cold, served up on a dish with watercress. 
 
132 EGG DISHES 
 
 308. CHEESED EGGS (Surrey) 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, and when they are cold, remove 
 the shells. Gut them in slices, arrange these in 
 layers in a well-buttered baking-dish, with pepper 
 and salt. Dust grated cheese over each layer, and 
 moisten with white sauce. On the top, put a layer 
 of cheese, and over that a little (melted) butter. 
 (Sliced tomatoes may at pleasure be included in this 
 dish.) Bake until lightly coloured. 
 
 309. CURRIED EGGS (Essex) 
 
 Four hard-boiled eggs, one sour apple, one large 
 onion, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one 
 dessertspoonful of curry powder, one tablespoonful 
 of cream, one small teaspoonful of salt, half a pint 
 of milk, or milk and water, quarter of a pound of 
 Patna rice. Boil the eggs for ten minutes, shell 
 and lay them in cold water, to keep white. Peel 
 and chop finely the apple and onion, fry them in the 
 butter for five minutes, using a saucepan ; stir in 
 curry powder, then the flour and salt ; lastly, the 
 milk, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. 
 Add the cream and the eggs, which should be cut 
 in quarters. When quite hot, serve in a border of 
 boiled rice. 
 
 310. CURRIED EGGS (Yorkshire) 
 
 Slice finely a couple of onions, and fry them a 
 delicate brown in two ounces of butter ; rub to- 
 gether till smooth, two ounces of curry powder, 
 two spoonfuls of good vinegar, and a teaspoonful 
 of castor sugar. Stir into it, over the fire, about 
 
EGG DISHES 133 
 
 a breakfastcupful of good stock, and bring it to the 
 boil. When nicely blended, break into it five 
 or six eggs, and let them cook gently in this about 
 one or two minutes. Serve at once, with curried 
 rice. 
 
 311. EGGS A LA DUCHESSE (Kent) 
 BoU several new-laid eggs for ten minutes ; take 
 off the shells, and cut them in half (long-ways) ; 
 take out the yolks ; have ready some bread crumbs 
 soaked in milk, and mix (together with the yolks) 
 a little pepper, salt, and a little lemon peel and 
 parsley chopped fine. Put a layer of this mixture 
 at the bottom of a pie-dish ; then fiU the whites 
 with the force-meat, and build them up in a pyramid 
 with some pieces of butter put on them and a few 
 bread crumbs, and then let them be in the oven to 
 get brown — not long enough for the white of egg 
 to get hard. 
 
 312. A PRETTY DISH OF EGGS (Yorkshire) 
 Break some eggs into a small pie-dish without 
 injuring the yolks, drop lightly some warm butter 
 on them, and strew bread crumbs lightly over them ; 
 put into the oven till the whites of the eggs are set, 
 and serve with a wreath of parsley. Of course, you 
 can put any quantity of eggs, but I should say about 
 one ounce of bread crumbs to four eggs. 
 
 313. BROWN FRICASSEE OF EGGS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take eight or ten eggs, according to the bigness 
 
 you design your dish : boil them hard. Put them 
 
 in a stewpan of cold water, take off the shell ; then 
 
134 EGG DISHES 
 
 fry them in butter till they be of a deep brown. 
 Have a little brown gravy and a lump of butter, 
 thicken it up with flour. Lay two or three eggs in 
 the middle of the dish, then cut the others in two, 
 and set them with the small ends upward round the 
 dish. Fry some sippets and lay round them. 
 Garnish with crisp parsley. 
 
 314. WHITE FRICASSEE OF EGGS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take ten or twelve eggs, boil them hard and peel 
 them, put them in a stewpan with a little white 
 gravy. Take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat 
 them very well, and put to them two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, a tablespoonful of white wine, 
 a little lemon juice, shred parsley, and salt to taste. 
 Shake all together over the stove tUl it be as thick 
 as cream, but don't let it boU. Lay some of the 
 eggs whole in the dish, lay the rest round, cut in 
 halves and quarters ; but you must not cut them 
 till you lay them in the dish. Garnish with sippets. 
 
 315. OMELETTE (Kent) 
 
 The yolks and whites of six eggs (these will 
 suffice for three or four persons), well beaten for 
 at least three minutes with three tablespoonfuls 
 of mUk, some chopped parsley and onion, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper. When this is 
 ready, put a piece of butter as large as a walnut 
 into the frying-pan over a brisk fire, and when the 
 butter is hot, throw in the mixture of eggs, stirring 
 it, or rather, putting it together with a spoon or 
 ladle, to give it the shape, which can be finished 
 doing when it is thrown ofi the frying-pan on the 
 
EGG DISHES 135 
 
 dish, for it must not be kept more than two 
 minutes on the fire. 
 
 316. OMELETTES (Surrey) 
 
 To prepare a plain omelette, see that the frying- 
 pan is thoroughly clean. Place ia it about one 
 ounce of butter. Break three eggs separately to 
 see that they are fresh, beat them up with a little 
 chopped parsley, and a piach of pepper and salt. 
 The eggs should not be beaten too much, or the 
 white of them separates, and you produce a watery 
 mixture which destroys the flavour and appearance 
 of the omelette. When the butter is melted, pour 
 the mixture into the frying-pan, and stir it till it 
 begins to set or thicken. Shake the pan occasion- 
 ally, and fold over the omelette neatly in an oval 
 shape. When it is of a golden colour, turn it 
 quickly into a hot dish. To be able to prepare a 
 plain omelette is to be able to prepare any kind. 
 If you require a cheese omelette, introduce into the 
 mixture about a dessertspoonful of grated cheese, 
 with a little pepper and salt, and sometimes a few 
 grains of cayenne. In a sweet omelette, no pepper 
 and salt, but a httle grated sugar, and just before 
 the omelette is folded in the pan, distribute evenly 
 over it a little jam. If a bacon omelette, a few pieces 
 of previously cooked bacon cut into small dice, and 
 so on. In preparing an omelette, remember five 
 things : a clean pan ; mixture not to be too much 
 beaten ; omelette must not be too large (three eggs 
 are better than six) ; it should not be too much 
 cooked; it must be eaten immediately, or it be- 
 comes tough and flabby. 
 
136 EGG DISHES 
 
 317. PALESTINE EGGS (Surrey) 
 
 Trim and boil twelve good-sized Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, and set them to cool. Boil six eggs hard and 
 let them get cold (they can be plunged into a bowl 
 of cold water), then cut them up. Slice the arti- 
 chokes, lay them in a buttered baking-dish ; strew 
 the chopped eggs over them ; next, put a layer of 
 shced tomatoes ; last, a layer of grated cheese. 
 Bake until lightly coloured, and serve very hot. 
 
 318. SCALLOPED EGGS (Devonshire) 
 
 Four new-laid eggs, half a teaspoonful made 
 mustard, four tablespoonfuls white crumbs, half an 
 ounce of butter, four tablespoonfuls chopped 
 cooked ham, bacon, game, or chicken, two table- 
 spoonfuls hot milk or stock ; salt and pepper. Mix 
 crumbs, ham, and seasoning ; put half aside. Mix 
 the other half with mustard, a little oiled butter, 
 and enough milk to form a stiff paste. Butter 
 four saucers or scaHop-sheUs, spread them thickly 
 with the above paste, leaving a hoUow for the raw 
 egg. Shake over each egg some of the dry mixture 
 laid aside. Put a few pieces of butter here and 
 there. Bake untU set ; about ten minutes. 
 
 319. SCOTCH EGGS (Middlesex) 
 
 Boil them hard, and when the sheU has been re- 
 moved, cover them thickly with a forcemeat made 
 as follows : — Take some veal or calves' kidney, with 
 a slice of ham, a bit of butter, shalot, cayenne, and 
 a green onion, all finely minced together, and mixed 
 to a proper consistency with the yolks of eggs ; 
 
EGG DISHES 137 
 
 dredge them with flour, and fry in boiling lard, or 
 beef dripping : serve up with a rich gravy. 
 
 320. SCOTCH EGGS (Scotland) 
 
 Take as many eggs as required, allowing a half 
 egg for each person and boil until hard. Then put 
 into cold water and take off the shells when quite 
 cold. Cover each egg with sausage meat, or well- 
 seasoned rissole mixture, being careful to cover 
 the egg completely, keeping them an oval shape. 
 Flatten them at both ends, dip each into beaten 
 egg, then into bread crumbs. Do this twice, so as 
 to have a firm cover. Fry in boiling fat until brown. 
 Cut them open with a sharp knife, and serve on a 
 dish with good thick gravy. 
 
 321. SCRAMBLED EGGS (Cheshire) 
 
 Beat up four eggs, add salt and pepper, put them 
 into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, keep 
 stirring constantly with a wooden spoon tiU the eggs 
 are nearly set ; then (1) serve as they are on a very 
 hot dish, or (2) add two tablespoonfuls of tomato 
 sauce, and stir for two minutes off the fire. 
 
 322. EGGS STEWED IN GRAVY (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Pour a little gravy into a little pewter (or earthen- 
 ware) dish, and set it on a stove. When it is hot, 
 break in as many eggs as will cover the dish bottom, 
 keep pouring the gravy over them with a spoon till 
 they are white at the top. When they are set 
 enough, strew over them a little salt : fry some 
 square sippets of bread m. butter, arrange the eggs 
 on them, and serve up. 
 
138 EGG DISHES 
 
 323. EGG AND TOMATO MOULD (Yorkshire) 
 
 One pound of tomatoes, four eggs, half a tea- 
 cupful thin cream or milk, one clove garlic or onion. 
 Scald and peel the tomatoes, cut into small pieces, 
 simmer with the butter and seasoning. Remove 
 the garlic as soon as it has flavoured the tomato. 
 Mash the tomato as it cooks, with a wooden spoon. 
 Let it boil ten minutes, then add the cream or milk, 
 and four hard-boiled eggs (chopped), thicken the 
 whole with a cornflour liaison. Pour into a wetted 
 mould to stiffen. When cold, turn out and garnish 
 with parsley and rubbed egg yolk. 
 
 324. EGGS AND TOMATO SAUCE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Place one pound of stewed and pulped tomatoes 
 and a slice of onion into a stewpan, with two ounces 
 of butter rubbed into one teaspoonful of flour ; add 
 pepper and salt, and a little water if necessary. 
 Stir well. Poach as many eggs as are required, 
 and lay them on hot buttered toast. Pour the tomato 
 sauce round, and scatter chopped parsley over the 
 eggs to serve. 
 
 325. EGGS IN THE TURKISH WAY (Surrey) 
 
 Put an onion cut into slices, with some fine herbs 
 and butter, into a saucepan, adding a little flour, 
 salt, and pepper : when these have been on the fire 
 a few minutes, add a glass of white French wine 
 and the whites of a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 slices : when these ingredients are well united, add the 
 yolks, which had been previously set aside, and serve 
 up very hot. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 SAVOURIES 
 
 Note. — Under this heading I include several pleas- 
 ing little recipes which were received too late for 
 insertion under other groupings : they are genuine 
 country concoctions, and will be found to afford a 
 light variety to the usual staple articles of diet. 
 Although they have about them a somewhat more 
 modem feeling than the majority of recipes in this 
 book, I have the donors' words for it that these 
 savouries have long been used with much success. 
 In any case, they carry their own commendation 
 to the " knowledgeable " cook. 
 
 326. ANCHOVY CREAMS (Hertfordshire) 
 Take a quarter of a pint of cream ; put into it a 
 little anchovy sauce, enough to give it a delicate 
 pink colour and flavour ; whip stiffly, and place on 
 croutes of fried bread. 
 
 327. ANCHOVY FILLETS AND GREEN BUTTER 
 (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Green butter is made thus : Take some good 
 fresh watercress and pick all the leaves off the 
 stalks, chop them finely, then dry in a cloth, and 
 
 139 
 
140 SAVOURIES 
 
 add them to some fresh butter till it becomes a 
 bright green colour. Season with cayenne pepper 
 and salt, and mould it with an ordinary butter 
 spoon. Dish these in a pile, and on each lay two 
 small anchovy fillets crossways. 
 
 328. BREAD AND CHEESE CUSTARD (Kent) 
 
 Take half a pound of grated Cheddar cheese, 
 half a pound of bread crumbs, one pint of milk, one 
 egg, pepper, and salt. Mix the cheese, crumbs, 
 pepper, and salt together. Boil the mUk and pour 
 it over them. Leave the mixture to grow cold, 
 and then beat the egg and stir it in. Put all in a 
 deep dish, and bake to a good brown in a hot oven. 
 Lay little pieces of butter on the top, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 329. BOUCHES A L'INDIEN (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Pieces of puff paste filled with any sort of minced 
 white savoury meat and moistened with curry 
 sauce — whether made as tartlets, turnovers, sausage- 
 rolls, or fried rolls — are excellent. 
 
 330. BEEF AND HAM ROLL (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One pound of beef steak or veal, one pound raw 
 ham, five ounces of white crumbs, one egg, mace, 
 pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste, one ounce parsley 
 scalded and chopped. Mince the raw meat, 
 including fat, but not gristle ; add the other 
 ingredients, and beaten egg, and mix well. Form 
 firmly into the shape of a pillow, wrap in a greased 
 paper, tie lightly in a cloth, and boil for two hours. 
 Always serve it cold ; but sprinkle, whilst hot, 
 browned bread crumbs on the top. 
 
SAVOURIES 141 
 
 331. FRICATELLES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take any remains of the cold meat from a veal 
 pie, season it highly, chop it, and mix with a raw 
 egg. Lay the mixture on a square slice of bread, 
 and fry in a little butter, or clarified fat. Garnish 
 with parsley. 
 
 332. JAMAICA FRITTERS (Devonshire) 
 
 A small slice of cold meat (about one oimce), one 
 egg, half a slice of bread. Mince the meat finely, 
 pour boiling water on the bread ; when soaked, pour 
 off superfiuous water. Beat the egg, add to the 
 bread parsley or any other flavouring. Have ready 
 boiling fat in frying pan. Drop the mixture in by 
 tablespoonfuls, turn when sufficiently set, so as to 
 brown both sides — or it may be made in one large 
 fritter, filling the bottom of the pan. Any sort of 
 meat or fish may be used. The above is enough for 
 two persons. 
 
 333. HADDOCK SOUFFLE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Boil a dried haddock, remove all skin and bones, 
 pound it with a lump of butter, and a dash of cayenne 
 pepper ; pass it through a sieve, mix it with three 
 yolks of eggs, then add their whites whisked to a very 
 stiff froth ; half fill some little cases with the mixture, 
 and bake at once. (Filleted dried haddock may 
 be treated as above.) 
 
 334 KEBOBS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cut a few pieces the size of an egg from a leg or 
 loin of mutton ; chop a small onion, with seasoning to 
 
142 SAVOURIES 
 
 taste, and lay this on the meat before rolling it up ; 
 leave it covered for an hour, and then thread the 
 pieces on a skewer, leaving a little space between ; 
 grill or broil slowly, turning often, and as soon as it 
 begins to brown, baste it with a little tomato juice 
 diluted with mutton stock. 
 
 335. ONION AND KIDNEY SAVOURY (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Take a Spanish onion, cut out the centre, and 
 insert a kidney which has been carefully washed 
 and skinned. Bake in rather a hot oven, basting 
 frequently with cooking butter ; serve with thick 
 brown gravy. 
 
 336. POTTED LIVER (Hampshire) 
 
 Cook the liver, and mince it with a good-sized 
 piece of fat bacon. Mix with it salt, cayenne pepper, 
 nutmeg, and a little clove. Pound in a mortar, put 
 into pots, and cover with melted butter. 
 
 337. LIVER AND POTATO TURNOVERS 
 
 (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Boil some potatoes dry and floury ; mash them 
 smoothly, make into a paste with an egg, adding a 
 little salt and pepper. Roll out, and cut into 
 rounds about five inches across, prepare a stuffing 
 thus. Carefully chop or mince some boiled liver, 
 add a few breadcrumbs, season with a little chopped 
 onion and powdered sage, lay a little mixture on 
 each round, fold over and wet the edges of one half 
 to make it adhere to the other ; brush over with 
 milk and bake in a quick oven. 
 
SAVOURIES 143 
 
 338. DRESSED OYSTERS (Kent) 
 
 Mix in a sherry glass one eggspoonful of tomato 
 ketchup and an equal amount of lemon juice. Add 
 one teaspoonful of French vinegar, a little pepper 
 and salt, and a suggestion of cayenne. For each 
 glass take four oysters — beard them carefully — 
 and previous to placing them in the glass put in 
 the juice from their shells. Serve at once in sherry 
 glasses. 
 
 339. FINE PATTIES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Slice either cold turkey, lamb, or chicken, with 
 an equal quantity of the fat of lamb, or of loin of 
 veal, or the inside fat of a sirloin of beef; add a 
 little parsley, thyme, and shredded lemon peel, put it 
 all in a marble mortar, and pound it very fine, 
 season it with white pepper and salt ; then make a 
 fine puff paste, roll it out in thin square sheets, put 
 the forcemeat in the middle, cover it over, and close 
 it evenly all round. Just before the patties go into 
 the oven, wash them over with the yolk of an egg. 
 Bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven ; have 
 ready a little white gravy, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and a little shalot, thickened with a little 
 cream and butter ; as soon as the patties come out 
 of the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in 
 some gravy ; you must take care not to put too 
 much gravy in for fear of its running out at the 
 sides, and spoiling the patties. 
 
 340. SAVOURY PATTIES (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take the kidney of a loin of veal before it is 
 roasted, cut it in thin slices, season it with mace. 
 
144 SAVOURIES 
 
 pepper, and salt, and make your patties with good 
 shell (puff) paste. Lay a slice in every patty, and 
 either bake or fry them. 
 
 341. SAVOURY MUTTON ROLLS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cut some mutton into slices, trim o£E all fat and 
 season nicely ; chop some capers with a little lemon 
 peel and lay them on the mutton ; roll up and put on 
 a skewer. Place it in the oven with just enough 
 gravy to cover, and bake for about a quarter of an 
 hour ; slip the rolls off the skewer, and serve with 
 thick gravy. 
 
 342. BAKED PIG'S FRY (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cut up a pound of pig's fry, lay it in a pie-dish ; 
 chop finely two onions and a few sage leaves, season 
 to taste ; mix these ingredients and sprinkle over the 
 meat. Cut up a pound and a half of part boiled 
 potatoes, and cover over the meat with them ; fill 
 the dish with water or stock, bake for two hours and 
 a half in moderate oven. 
 
 343. SAVOURY PUDDING (Sussex) 
 
 Half a pound of stale bread, three eggs, three 
 ounces of flour, three ounces of suet, one ounce of 
 fine oatmeal, one pint of mUk, a small shalot chopped 
 very fine, a little salt, a pinch of sweet marjoram, 
 and enough lemon to give a fiavour. Mix all tho- 
 roughly well together, not too moist : turn into a 
 basin or (better) a floured cloth, and boil or steam for 
 three hours. 
 
SAVOURIES 145 
 
 344. ITALIAN RICE (Middlesex) 
 Melt one ounce of butter in a stewpan, take one 
 onion about the size of a golf ball, mince it very 
 finely, and fry it in the butter. When it is a golden 
 yellow, stir in four ounces of hot, well-boiled rice. 
 Work it well with a fork, at the same time shaking 
 in two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. 
 Serve it piled on a flat dish, garnished with sliced 
 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 345. SAVOURY RICE (Isle of Wight) 
 Wash three ounces of rice, and boil it in milk 
 until tender, adding pepper and salt. Butter a 
 pie-dish, spread half the rice on it, sprinkle an 
 ounce of grated cheese on it, add the rest of the 
 rice and another ounce of cheese, put little pieces 
 of butter on the top, and brown in the oven. 
 
 346. SAVOURY RICE MOULD (Hampshire) 
 This is a very tempting and nutritious dish. To 
 half a teacupful of rice boiled in milk, add two 
 ounces of minced cold mutton, one ounce of ham, 
 one hard-boUed egg minced, one tablespoonful of 
 chopped parsley, one raw egg, pepper and salt to 
 taste. If not moist enough, add a little milk. This 
 may be baked in a pie-dish or steamed in a mould. 
 
 347. FRIED SANDWICH (Hertfordshire) 
 Well season a slice of cold meat or ham, spread a 
 layer of mashed potato over each side, trimming 
 it neatly into shape, spread with beaten raw egg, 
 and cover with crumbs ; make the fat very hot 
 before frying the sandwich. 
 10 
 
146 SAVOUEIES 
 
 348. SARDINE PUFFS HOT (Hertfordshire) 
 Take some pastry (the remains of any puff paste 
 will do) or a nice short crust, have a tin of sardines 
 which have been skinned and freed from bone, 
 mash up on a plate with a little pepper and salt, 
 and when well mashed put about a dessertspoonful 
 of the mixture into the paste, which has been cut 
 with a round cutter, and form into a puff. Egg and 
 breadcrumb the puffs, fry a delicate hue in some 
 clean lard, and serve up on a dish paper. Garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 349. SAVOURY TOAST (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One ounce of butter, three hard-boiled eggs put 
 through a sieve (or chopped very fine), one teaspoon- 
 ful of anchovy sauce, one teaspoonful of chopped 
 capers, a little pepper and salt (and cayenne pepper 
 if liked) ; mix well together, make very hot, and 
 serve on squares of hot buttered toast. 
 
 350. MOCK CRAB TOAST (Derbyshire) 
 
 Pound two ounces of cheese with a dessertspoon- 
 ful of anchovy sauce, the same of made mustard, 
 the same of vinegar, a pinch of Nepaul pepper, and 
 a little salt, the yolk of an egg, and a tablespoonful 
 of butter. Mix thoroughly in a basin and then 
 spread on buttered toast ; put it in the oven and 
 bake for about ten minutes. Serve piping hot. 
 
 361. FRENCH TOAST (Lancashire) 
 One pound of beef, half a pint white bread-crumbs, 
 half a pound of tomatoes. Mince the beef, mix 
 with the bread crumbs and tomatoes chopped up 
 
SAVOURIES 147 
 
 (previously scalded to remove skins) ; bind with 
 one beaten egg. Press into pUlow form, place in 
 a baking tia, cover, and bake one hour. Remove 
 cover, put a little butter on the top, and let it bake 
 until brown. Make a nice gravy. 
 
 352. EXCELLENT HAM TOAST (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of lean ham, mince it 
 very finely or pass through a mincing machine. 
 Put this in a shallow saucepan, with the beaten yolks 
 of two eggs, half an ounce of butter, two table- 
 spoonfuls of cream, and a soupQon of cayenne to 
 taste. Stir over the fire till it thickens. Have 
 ready some nicely trimmed pieces of toast, spread 
 the mixture on this and serve hot. Set all on a nice 
 d'oyley, and garnish with sprigs of parsley. 
 
 353. TOMATO AND MUSHROOM SAVOURY 
 (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Cut as many rounds of bread as you require, 
 butter them, and place a mushroom upon each. 
 On the mushroom place a tomato which has been 
 peeled, season with pepper and salt, and bake. 
 
 354. SAVOURY TOMATOES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 For each small tomato allow a slice of bacon, or 
 ham ; take out the pulp of the tomatoes, mix it 
 with a few white bread crumbs, a little grated cheese, 
 cayenne, salt, and sugar ; a little cream or part of an 
 egg may also be used if convenient, but it is not' 
 necessary ; refill the tomatoes, fold the bacon 
 round, and fry ; or, if frying is not liked, put a little 
 fat or butter in a saucepan with the balls. Cover tke 
 
148 SAVOURIES 
 
 pan closely, and let it cook gently for twenty 
 minutes to half an hour, shaking the pan to prevent 
 burning. Serve each ball on toast or bread. 
 
 355. SAVOURY TONGUE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take some cold cooked tongue, and cut it into 
 dice, and for every half-teacupful allow a teacupful 
 of good stock. Chop a little onion finely and put it in 
 with the stock ; add pepper and salt to taste. Make 
 it thoroughly hot, mix the meat with the well-beaten 
 eggs, in the proportion of one egg to each cupful of 
 tongue, and add to the stock. Stir well, and then 
 put into small patty pans, sprinkle thickly with 
 breadcrumbs, and scatter small bits of butter over 
 the top. Bake for a quarter of an hour in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 356. A NICE WHET BEFORE DINNER 
 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Cut some slices of bread half an inch thick, fry 
 them in butter, but not too hard ; then split some 
 anchovies, take out the bones, lay half an anchovy 
 on each piece of bread ; have ready some Cheshire 
 cheese grated and some chopped parsley mixed 
 together, lay it pretty thickly over the bread and 
 anchovy, baste it with butter, and brown it with a 
 salamander ; it must be done on the dish on which 
 you send it to the table. 
 
 357. SCOTCH WOODCOCK (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take two slices of toasted bread, rather thick, 
 butter them on both sides, spread them with anchovy 
 paste and place one piece on top of the other, and 
 
SAVOURIES 149 
 
 cut them into fingers or squares. Take the yolks 
 of two eggs well beaten, and a quarter of a pint of 
 cream ; or if cream is not at hand, the yolks of 
 three eggs, and a little milk will do ; set over the 
 fire to thicken (but do not let it boil, else it will 
 curdle) ; it should be a nice thick custard. Pour 
 this over the toast, and send to table as hot as 
 possible. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 Note. — Voltaire's celebrated sneer about the 
 " fifty religions and only one sauce " {i.e. melted 
 butter) of the English, was in reality undeserved. 
 Our forefathers were particularly keen on sauces : 
 and some of these sauces were frequently so elaborate, 
 so expensive, and so tedious in preparing, that I 
 have refrained from setting them down. Life went 
 more leisurely in those days, and the twentieth- 
 century housewife finds it easier to purchase a bottle 
 of some well-known condiment, such as Worcester 
 or Wiltshire sauce, to expenditure of much time 
 and trouble in the concoction of appetising reUshes. 
 After aU, " hunger," as the proverb says, " is the 
 best sauce." Amongst those here contained, how- 
 ever, will be found some very meritorious recipes, 
 calculated to mitigate the monotony of cold mutton, 
 or to add a pleasing asperity to unexhilarating fish. 
 I have included two or three ketchups and bottling 
 sauces. An excellent Mayonnaise Sauce will be 
 found in the salad section of this book. 
 
 SAUCES FOR MEAT 
 
 358. SAUCE FOR ANY KIND OF COLD MEAT 
 (Kent) 
 
 Mix in a basin one tablespoonful of grated horse- 
 radish, the same amount of red-ourrant jelly, the 
 
 160 
 
SAUCES 151 
 
 grated rind of one orange (or lemon) and its juice, 
 and a little raw mustard. 
 
 359. SIMPLE SAUCE FOR COLD MEAT (Kent) 
 
 Three teaspoonfuls of pale brown sugar, one tea- 
 spoonful of made mustard, four dessertspoonfuls 
 of vinegar. Mix thoroughly. 
 
 360. SHARP SAUCE FOR COLD MEATS 
 
 (Middlesex) 
 
 Into a quart of white wine vinegar, put eight 
 cloves of garlic, twelve shalots, a small clove of 
 ginger, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon: boU 
 them together for a short time ; then strain and 
 bottle for use. 
 
 36L SAUCE FOR ROAST MEAT IN GENERAL 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Wash an anchovy clean, put to it a glass of red 
 wine, a shalot cut small, a little lemon-juice, and 
 some gravy. Stew them together, strain off, and 
 mix into the sauce the gravy that runs from the 
 meat. 
 
 362. CUMBERLAND SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Half a pound of red currant jelly, half a pint of 
 Madeira, juice of a lemon; mix together with the juice 
 of four to six oranges, one dessertspoonful of French 
 mustard, the rind of one orange cut in Julienne 
 shreds. Mix well, and stir all together in a lined 
 pan over the fire till hot, but not boiling. 
 
152 SAUCES 
 
 363. DEVIL SAUCE (Ireland) 
 
 Cut up some young onions very fine, and moisten 
 them with a little French viaegar, and boil for five 
 or six minutes. Add some cayenne pepper, good 
 strong gravy, wine, and anchovy butter, which last 
 consists of filleted anchovies pounded very well in a 
 mortar with butter and cayenne. 
 
 364. GHERKIN SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Half an ounce of butter, half an ounce of flour, one 
 dessertspoonful of gherkin, three-quarters of a pint 
 of water, pepper and salt, the yolk of one egg, one 
 dessertspoonful of lemon juice. Mix well in a lined 
 pan and stir till it is hot, but not boiling. 
 
 365. GOOSEBERRY SAUCE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Put some scalded gooseberries (passed through a 
 sieve), a little juice of sorrel, and a little ginger, 
 into some melted butter. 
 
 366. "GUBBINS" SAUCE (Middlesex) 
 
 Fill a basin with boiling water and put a soup- 
 plate on the top. When the plate is quite hot, 
 melt in it a piece of good butter, the size of a 
 walnut. When the butter is melted, stir in two 
 teaspoonfuls of made mustard, one dessertspoonful of 
 good wine vinegar, one teaspoonful of good Devon- 
 shire cream. Add salt and black pepper. This is 
 the best possible sauce for grilled meat or " de- 
 villed " bones. 
 
SAUCES 153 
 
 367. HORSERADISH SAUCE (Middlesex) 
 One teaspoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful of 
 vinegar, three ditto of cream, one teaspoonful of 
 salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. Add grated horse- 
 radish, stirring it in very smoothly till the whole be 
 of the consistency of thick clotted cream. 
 
 368. INDIA SAUCE (Kent, 1809) 
 To a pint of the best vinegar, slice in two heads 
 of garlic, three tablespoonfuls of soy, five of walnut 
 pickle, and an ounce of cayenne pepper. Put it into 
 a bottle and shake it well. 
 
 369. ITALIAN SAUCE (Essex) 
 Put into a stewpan over a slow fire one tablespoon- 
 ful of salad oil, and a handful of finely chopped 
 onions. Add half a teacupful of broth and eight 
 tablespoonfuls of glaze. If too thick when it has 
 done boiling, add a very little water; but it is 
 better fairly thick. Seasoning : chopped parsley, 
 cayenne, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 370. PIQUANT SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Half a pint of brown gravy, one teaspoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar, one tablespoonful malt vinegar, 
 pepper and salt, half an ounce of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of French 
 mustard. Mix well and stir till hot (but not boiling) 
 in a lined pan. 
 
 371. SAVOURY SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Half an ounce of butter, half an ounce of bacon, 
 one carrot, one onion, one turnip, one sprig of 
 
164 SAUCES 
 
 parsley, one of thyme, pepper and salt, haH a 
 pint of stock, six pepper-corns, three-quarters of 
 an ounce of flour. The flour to be mixed smooth 
 with a little stock, and added last of all, when the 
 other ingredients have been boiled and strained ofi. 
 
 372. TOMATO SAUCE (Sussex) 
 (To eat with Mutton) 
 
 Pare half a dozen ripe tomatoes ; put them! into a 
 saucepan with a little piece of butter, two chilhes, 
 and salt. Shake some flour in, add half a teacupful 
 of gravy. Boil all together ten minutes, keeping 
 it stirred, and send to table hot. 
 
 373. WHITE SAUCE (Kent, 1809) 
 To a pint of cream put a tablespoonful of anchovy 
 juice, a tablespoonful of ketchup, a tablespoonful of 
 soy, and a little flour and butter as for melted butter. 
 
 374. WHITE SAUCE FOR FOWLS (Eighteenth Century) 
 Take a scrag of veal, the neck of a fowl, or any 
 bits of mutton or veal you have ; put them in a 
 saucepan, with a blade or two of mace, a few 
 black pepper-corns, a head of celery, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, a slice of the end of a lemon ; 
 put in a quart of water, cover it close, let it boil 
 till it is reduced to half a pint ; strain it, and thicken 
 it with a quarter of a pound of butter, mixed with 
 flour ; boil it five or six minutes, put in two spoon- 
 fuls of pickled mushrooms ; mix the yolks of two 
 eggs with a teacupful of good cream and a little 
 nutmeg, and put this in your sauce ; keep shaking it 
 over the fire, but do not let it boU. 
 
SAUCES 155 
 
 375. SAUCE FOR WILD FOWL (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a proper quantity of veal gravy, add some 
 pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of two Seville 
 oranges, and a little red wine, and let it all boU some 
 time together. This is a good sauce for wild duck, 
 teal, etc. 
 
 376. GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Four large onions sliced into two quarts of water, 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, a burnt crust of bread, two 
 ounces of butter, some pepper and salt. When 
 boiling, strain it, and add to it a tablespoonful of 
 ketchup. 
 
 377. SAUCE FOR A GOOSE (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take the juice of sorrel, a little butter, and a few 
 scalded gooseberries. Mix all together, and sweeten 
 to your taste. You must not let it boil after you 
 put in the sorrel, if you do it will take off the green. 
 This is to be served separately. 
 
 SAUCES FOR FISH 
 378. DUTCH SAUCE (Middlesex) 
 
 Mix well together half a pound of butter, two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, and the yolks of five or six 
 eggs ; then put this paste into a saucepan with some 
 salt, whole pepper, the juice of three lemons, and 
 half a tumbler of water ; put it on a red fire, 
 and keep stirring until it has become sufificiently 
 thick to lay on the vegetables or fish, over which 
 you may throw it. 
 
156 SAUCES 
 
 379. CUCUMBER GARNISH FOR FISH (Devonshire) 
 
 Peel and cut a cucumber into one and a haK inch 
 lengths. Quarter these and remove the seeds, cut 
 the pieces into fancy olive shapes. Lay them in cold 
 water with a pinch of salt, and bring it to the boil ; 
 skim, and let the cucumber cook until tender, then 
 serve round the salmon. 
 
 380. GENEVA SAUCE FOR PISH 
 
 Take a few mushrooms, onions, carrots sliced, 
 parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two ounces of 
 ham, two cloves, a blade of mace, and some pepper- 
 corns ; set the whole over the fire with a little butter. 
 When it becomes clear, add a tablespoonful of flour, 
 stir it well over the fire a few moments, and add 
 enough good consomme to bring it to the consistency 
 of cream. With this put half a bottle of sherry or 
 Madeira. Let the whole simmer until the roots are 
 done, then skim it well and strain it over whatever 
 fish you have occasion to dress. When the fish is 
 done, take it up carefully with a slice, drain it 
 and put the sauce into a stewpan. Boil it and 
 skim o& the fat. The moisture from the fish will 
 thin your sauce, therefore reduce it by boiling. 
 Add a little flour and butter kneaded together; 
 finish with a little anchovy, butter, lemon juice, 
 and cayenne, and mask the fish with it. 
 
 381. SAUCE FOR FISH (Scotch) 
 
 Brown four ounces of butter sUghtly, add to it an 
 EngHsh pint of water, a little flour and pepper, 
 three tablespoonfuls of ketchup. The fish must be 
 well drained from the cold water before they are put 
 
SAUCES 157 
 
 into the sauce. After they have boiled a few 
 minutes, put in three or four pickled walnuts cut in 
 small pieces. This sauce will be sufficient for four 
 good haddocks, and may do to serve cod's head in. 
 
 382. A VERY NICE SAUCE FOR MOST SORTS OF 
 FISH (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a little gravy made of either veal or mutton, 
 put to it a little of the water that drains from your 
 fish ; when it is boiled enough, put it in a saucepan, 
 and put in a whole onion, one anchovy, a spoonful 
 of ketchup, and a glass of white wine ; thicken it 
 with a good lump of butter roUed in flour and a 
 spoonful of cream ; if you have oysters, cockles, or 
 shrimps, put them in after you take it off the fire, 
 (but it is very good without). You may use red wine 
 instead of white, by leaving out the cream. 
 
 383. WHITE FISH SAUCE (Eighteenth Century) 
 Wash two anchovies, put them into a saucepan 
 with one glass of white wine and two of water, half 
 a nutmeg grated, and a little lemon peel ; when it 
 has boiled five or six minutes strain it through a 
 sieve, add to it a spoonful of white wine vinegar, 
 thicken it a little, then add a quarter of a pound of 
 butter rolled in flour ; boil it well, and pour it hot 
 upon your dish. 
 
 384. OYSTER SAUpE (Ireland) 
 Strain the liquor from the oysters, and wash them 
 in cold water. Simmer the liquor with a little mace 
 and lemon-peel ; add a httle flour, and some butter 
 rubbed in flour ; when this is boiled, put in the 
 oysters and give one boil more. 
 
158 SAUCES 
 
 385. EGG-SAUCE FOR A SALT COD 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Boil your eggs hard, first half chop the whites, 
 then put in the yolks, and chop them both together, 
 but not very small ; put them into half a pound of 
 good creamed butter, and let it boil up ; then put it 
 on the fish. 
 
 386. LOBSTER SAUCE (Eighteenth Century) 
 Boil half a pint of water with a little mace and 
 whole pepper, long enough to take out the strong 
 taste of the spice ; then strain it off, melt three 
 quarters of a pound of butter smooth in the water, 
 cut your lobster in very small pieces, stew it all 
 together tenderly, with an anchovy, and send it up 
 hot. (The butter in above two recipes can be reduced 
 ad lib.) 
 
 387. LOBSTER SAUCE— ANOTHER WAY 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Bruise the body of a lobster into thick melted 
 butter, and cut the flesh into it in small pieces, stew 
 all together and give it a boil ; season with a little 
 pepper, salt, and a very small quantity of mace. 
 
 388. SAUCE FOR SALMON (Eighteenth Century) 
 Boil a bunch of fennel and parsley, chop them 
 small, and put them into some good melted butter, 
 send it to the table in a sauce-boat ; have another 
 with gravy sauce. To make the gravy sauce, put a 
 little brown gravy into a saucepan, with one anchovy, 
 a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, a tablespoonful of 
 liquor from walnut pickle, one or two tablespoonfuls 
 of the water that the fish was boiled in (it gives a 
 
SAUCES 159 
 
 pleasant flavour), a stick of horseradish, a little 
 browning and salt ; boil this three or four minutes, 
 thicken it with flour and a good lump of butter, 
 and strain it through a hair sieve. N.B. — This is 
 a good sauce for most kinds of boiled fish. 
 
 BOTTLING SAUCES 
 
 389. BLACK BUTTER (Middlesex) 
 
 Put any quantity of butter required into a sauce- 
 pan, and heat it over the fire until the colour has 
 turned ; just before it is taken off, add a little vine- 
 gar, salt, and pepper. This is the common mode of 
 making black butter. But where a fine flavour is 
 required, a tablespoonful or more of the vinegar 
 must be used, according to the quantity of butter. 
 Take a pint of white wine vinegar, put into it a 
 small quantity of the usual sweet herbs, a few cloves, 
 salt, pepper, and a sliced shalot. Let these stand 
 in the sun for a fortnight, or infuse near the fire. 
 Then strain clear off, and put into another bottle. 
 This vinegar may be used with a variety of sauces. 
 
 390. BROWNING FOR MADE DISHES 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Beat small four ounces of fine lump sugar, put 
 it in a clear iron frying-pan, with one ounce of butter, 
 set it over a clear fire, mix it very well together all 
 the time ; when it begins to be frothy, the sugar 
 is dissolving, hold it higher over the fire, have ready 
 a pint of red wine ; when the sugar and butter are 
 of a deep brown, pour in a little of the wine, and 
 keep stirring it all the time ; put in half an ounce of 
 
160 SAUCES 
 
 Jamaica pepper, six cloves, four shalots peeled, 
 two or three blades of mace, three spoonfuls of 
 mushroom ketchup, a little salt, the rind of one 
 lemon ; boil it slowly for ten minutes, pour it into a 
 basin ; when cold, take off the scum very clean, and 
 bottle the sauce for use. 
 
 391. EXCELLENT BOTTLING SAUCE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 One quart bottle of porter or ale, two pounds of 
 anchovies, one bottle of port wine, one quart of 
 vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce 
 of allspice, two or three Jamaica peppers, the rind 
 of five or sis lemons pared thin ; all put together and 
 boiled down to half, strained through a cloth bag, 
 boiled again with white pepper. Bottle it when 
 cold. It will keep very long. 
 
 392. BOTTLED FISH SAUCE (Kent) 
 
 Half a pint of walnut pickle, six anchovies pounded, 
 three cloves of garlic pounded, three not pounded, 
 one spoonful of cayenne pepper, all mixed well, 
 and bottled for use. A tablespoonful in a boat of 
 melted butter is sufficient. 
 
 393. riSH SAUCE FOR BOTTLING (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take walnuts fit for pickling, beat them well in 
 a mortar till they are pulped, squeeze the juice from 
 them and let it stand a day. Pour it off clear, and 
 to every pint of liquor put one pound of anchovies 
 with an ounce of shalots ; set it on the fire till the 
 anchovies are quite dissolved, strain it clear, and to 
 every quart put a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace 
 
SAUCES 161 
 
 and allspice, and half a pint of white wine vinegar. 
 Let them boil all together for a quarter of an hour, 
 then put in glass bottles for use. 
 
 394. KING'S OWN SAUCE (Hampshire) 
 Fill a quart bottle with nasturtium flowers, and 
 half an ounce of shalots ; cover them with vinegar and 
 let it stand two months. Then strain, and add to the 
 liquor one ounce of salt, one teaspoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, and four ounces of soy. To be eaten with 
 either hot or cold meat. 
 
 396. LIVER KETCHUP (Lancashire) 
 Take a bullock's liver, wash it extremely well, 
 then put it with some salt in four quarts of water. 
 Let it simmer away one-half, carefully skimming it 
 all the time. Strain it through a hair-sieve, and 
 let it stand till next day, then pour it gently into a 
 saucepan with spice, a clove of garlic, a few bay 
 leaves, and a bit of horseradish. When boiled 
 enough to season it, let it stand till cold and bottle 
 it for use. 
 
 396. MUSHROOM KETCHUP (Surrey) 
 Having skinned and peeled some large field mush- 
 rooms, crush them into a pulp, adding a table- 
 spoonful of salt to every quart of pulp : let them 
 stand for a day and a night, then pour off the clear 
 liquor, and add to every quart about twenty cloves, 
 thirty peppercorns, and the same quantity of all- 
 spice : boil very gently for about half an hour, 
 then put into bottles with the spices. Some persons 
 add port wine, but this rather injures than improves 
 11 
 
162 SAUCES 
 
 the flavour, and is objectionable for many sauces. 
 A little mace may be added, but it is not essential. 
 
 397. TOMATO SAUCE FOR BOTTLING (Essex) 
 
 Take ten pounds of ripe tomatoes, and to this 
 quantity allow one pint of best brown vinegar, half 
 a pound of white sugar, two ounces of salt, one 
 ounce of garlic, one ounce of allspice, half an ounce 
 of black pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and a 
 quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper. Wipe the 
 tomatoes clean, and bake them in an oven till they 
 are soft enough to be rubbed through a fine sieve 
 which will retain the seeds and skins. Boil the juice 
 for one hour, then add the other ingredients. All 
 the spices must be ground, and the garlic peeled 
 and pounded to a pulp. 
 
 Now boil the whole mixture together, stirring 
 constantly to prevent burning, and continue the 
 boihng till you get a thick smooth mass free from 
 watery particles ; it will take about five hours 
 boiling. If you desire a bright colour, add a Uttle 
 prepared cochineal. This is one of the very best 
 keeping tomato sauces you can make. 
 
 It is to be bottled without further straining. 
 The bottles must be absolutely dry inside before 
 you put the sauce in them. When cold, cork 
 securely and seal or resin over the corks. 
 
 SWEET SAUCES 
 
 398. BRANDY SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, beat 
 
 it to a cream, add two and a half ounces of crushed 
 
 loaf sugar, and a glassful of brandy, mix all well 
 
SAUCES 163 
 
 together. The spirits must be added but a little 
 at a time. 
 
 399. CARAMEL SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 Make a caramel with twelve lumps of sugar, a 
 tablespoonful of water, and a little lemon juice ; 
 boil until it gets a nice brown, then add a quarter of 
 a pint of milk, add this to two yolks of eggs beaten 
 well. Strain through muslin. This makes a nice 
 sauce to any plain pudding. 
 
 400. GINGER SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 Two ounces crystallised ginger, two ounces loaf 
 sugar, half a pint of water, a few drops of caramel. 
 Boil, stirring constantly, in lined pan. 
 
 401. ORANGE SAUCE (Sussex) 
 
 The unexpected virtues of orange sauce were first 
 appreciated by a Patagonian explorer, who, left 
 stranded with his only remaining stores, a West- 
 phaUan ham and a few oranges, concocted a sauce 
 with the fruit which proved a most ideal accompani- 
 ment to the ham. It improves the flavour of wild 
 duck, of goose, turkey, and saddle of mutton ; and 
 is a first-rate sauce with plum-pudding, while in 
 America they use it as a wholesome adjunct to 
 stewed raisins, prunes, and stewed grapes, both as 
 a breakfast and a luncheon dish. 
 
 To make orange sauce, mix one level tablespoonful 
 of flour with half a cupful of sugar. Add at once 
 half a pint of quite boiling water, and the grated 
 rind of half an orange. Stir and boil four minutes, 
 and add the juice of an orange, and a large dessert- 
 spoonful of butter, and pour while hot over a well- 
 
164 SAUCES 
 
 beaten egg. This will be only sufficient for four 
 persons. The sauce, poured over apple pudding, 
 apple pie, or stewed apples, gives a pineapple flavour 
 to the whole. 
 
 402. RASPBERRY SAUCE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam, one ounce 
 of loaf sugar, gill of water, one tablespoonful of 
 lemon juice. Boil quickly in lined pan. 
 
 403. SARACEN SAUCE (Fourteenth century, 
 modernised) 
 
 Take rose-hips, and clean them (by pulping 
 through a sieve). Take the same amount of blanched 
 almonds, fry them in oil, and bray them with the 
 hips in a mortar. Boil them up with red wine, and 
 put in sufficient sugar, and powdered hot spices 
 (such as ginger, pepper, etc.). Mix all stiff with 
 rice-flour, colour with alkanet or cochineal, and 
 serve. 
 
 404. SAUCE FOR HOT PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Glass of wine, two yolks of eggs, lemon juice, 
 a little sugar ; whisk till thick. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 PICKLES 
 
 Note.— The love of pickles is sometimes con- 
 sidered the sign of a depraved taste : certainly it is 
 a very widespread depravity. The desire for some- 
 thing at once hot, sour, salt, and pungent, would seem 
 to be an inherent principle of human nature. We 
 do not go to such lengths as the Germans in their 
 affection for vinegary compounds : but (among our 
 working classes in particular) we undoubtedly give 
 way to an omnivorous appetite for pickles. 
 
 That the home-made pickle is superior from every 
 possible point of view to the " boughten " one, as 
 they say in the West Country, is a foregone con- 
 clusion. Although all pickly concoctions tend 
 towards obscure dyspeptic ailments, yet the home- 
 made article, partaken of in moderation, is at least 
 not actively deleterious : containing no artificial 
 colourings, no illicitly procured greens of vivid hue, 
 no doubtful ingredients of any sort : just good plain 
 vegetables in a good clean pickling mixture. Any 
 reader who makes proof of the praiseworthy pickle 
 prescriptions herewith, will unquestionably reap 
 the reward of her labours. 
 
 405. PICKLED BEET ROOT (Middlesex) 
 
 Boil the root until the skin can be removed 
 easily : having removed the skin, cut the root into 
 
 16S 
 
166 PICKLES 
 
 slices, and put them into salt and water for twelve 
 hours, drain them, put them into a jar, and pour 
 over them (cold) white wine vinegar, previously boiled 
 with whole pepper and ginger. For a quart of 
 vinegar, use half an ounce of pepper, and a good- 
 sized piece of white ginger : if the beet root be red, 
 use black pepper : but if white, the contrary. Any 
 other root, such as carrot, parsnip, turnip, etc., may 
 be pickled in the same manner. 
 
 406. PICKLED CABBAGES (Middlesex) 
 
 Shred the inner leaves pf good firm red cabbage, 
 sprinkle them plentifully with salt, and let them lie 
 on a sieve for a day : put them into the jar, and cover 
 with vinegar which has been boiled with whole black 
 pepper, ginger, and cloves. The proportions are 
 half an ounce of pepper, a drachm of ginger, and a 
 drachm of cloves, to a quart of vinegar. The 
 quantity of cloves may be increased for those who 
 like the flavour. The vinegar should be poured 
 over cold. Do not, either in this or in any other 
 recipe for pickling, strain off the spices : they are 
 to be put into the jar with the vinegar. 
 
 407. PICKLED RED CABBAGE (Essex) 
 
 The ingredients are red cabbages, salt, water, and 
 vinegar. To each quart of vinegar, half an ounce of 
 ginger well bruised, one ounce of whole black pepper, 
 and, when liked, a little cayenne. Take off the outside 
 decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut it into quar- 
 ters, remove its stalks, and cut it across in very thin 
 slices. Lay these on a dish and strew them plenti- 
 fully with salt, covering them with another dish. 
 
PICKLES 167 
 
 Let them remain for twenty-four hours, turn into a 
 colander to drain, and if necessary wipe them lightly 
 •with a clean soft cloth ; put them in a jar. Boil up 
 the vinegar with spices in the above proportions, 
 and when cold pour it over the cabbage. It will 
 be fit for use in a week or two. If kept for a very 
 long time, the cabbage is liable to get soft and to 
 discolour. To be really nice and crisp and of a good 
 red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately 
 after it is made. A little bruised cochineal boiled 
 with the vinegar adds much to its appearance. Tie 
 down with bladder and keep in a dry place. 
 
 408. PICKLED CAULLFLOWER (Middlesex) 
 
 Having trimmed the cauliflower, put it into salt 
 and water for twelve hours : then put it either 
 whole, or in detached parts, according to the size, 
 into a jar, and pour over (cold) white wine vinegar, 
 previously boiled with whole white pepper. In this, 
 as in all other cases, tie over with wet bladder and 
 leather : and whenever the bladder is removed to 
 take out any of the pickle, wet the bladder again 
 so that it may adhere firmly. The cauliflower is 
 sometimes about half boiled in strong salt and 
 water, before the vinegar is put upon it. 
 
 409. CHUTNEY (Kent) 
 
 Five pounds of apples (green), five pounds of 
 tomatoes, two and a half pounds of sugar, two and 
 a half pounds of sultanas, four ounces of garlic, or ten 
 ounces of onions, ten ounces of salt, two ounces of 
 cayenne, two ounces of ginger, three pints of vinegar. 
 
168 PICKLES 
 
 410. BENGAL CHUTNEY (Surrey) 
 
 One pound of brown sugar, half a pound of salt, 
 half a pound of mustard-seed, washed and pounded : 
 half a garlic, or quarter of a pound of onions chopped 
 finely, quarter of a pound of powdered ginger, 
 half a pound of raisins, stoned and chopped, one 
 ounce of cayenne pepper, three pints of vinegir ; 
 thirteen large sour apples, peeled, cored, and cut up, 
 then boiled till tender in the vinegar, and, when 
 tender, bruised with a spoon to a smooth pulp. 
 When cold, mix all the ingredients together, and 
 cover them lightly for a day or two. Then put 
 into jars and cover down tightly. It is best to 
 make half this quantity at a time. Mustard flour 
 may be used instead of mustard seed, and onions 
 instead of garlic. 
 
 411. BENGAL CHUTNEY (Devonshire) 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of Demerara sugar, six 
 ounces of mustard seed, two ounces of dried chillies, 
 four ounces of onions, six oimces of stoned raisins, 
 fifteen large unripe sour apples, six ounces of ground 
 ginger, one bottle best vinegar. The sugar must be 
 made into syrup ; the onion and ginger must be finely 
 pounded in a mortar ; the mustard-seed must be 
 washed in cold vinegar and dried in the sun ; the 
 apples to be peeled, cored, and sliced, and boiled in 
 half a bottle of vinegar. When the apples are 
 cold, put them into a large pan and gradually mix 
 in all the ingredients, including the half bottle of 
 vinegar. It must be well stirred until all is thor- 
 oughly blended. Then bottle for uge. One pound 
 
PICKLES 169 
 
 of tomatoes added to the apples and raisins (after 
 they are cooked), put through a sieve, then gradually 
 mixed all together, is a great improvement. 
 
 412. TOMATO CHUTNEY (Sussex) 
 
 Ingredients. — Three and a half pounds of green 
 tomatoes, one teaspoonful of mustard-seed, one 
 teaspoonful of ground ginger, one teaspoonful of 
 allspice, one onion, one quart of vinegar, ten cloves, 
 and a pound of brown sugar. 
 
 Method. — Peel and cut the tomatoes, put into the 
 preserving pan with vinegar and spices. When 
 nearly boihng, add sugar, and the onion whole. Boil 
 gently for about two hours. Remove the onion 
 before it breaks. Put into small pots and tie down. 
 If ripe tomatoes are used, less vinegar is required. 
 
 413. TO PICKLE GHERKINS (Surrey) 
 
 Put a quantity of spring water into a large earthen 
 pan. To every gallon put two pounds of salt : mix 
 them well together, and throw in five hundred 
 gherkins. When they have lain two hours in the 
 salt and water, put them to drain. When they are 
 quite dry, put them into a jar. Take one gallon of 
 white wine vinegar, put it into a saucepan with haK 
 an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, one ounce 
 of allspice, one ounce of mustard-seed, one stick 
 of horseradish cut in slices, two or three races of 
 ginger, six bay leaves, one nutmeg cut in pieces, and 
 a handful of salt. Boil up all together, and pour 
 it over the gherkins. Cover them close down and 
 let them stand twenty-four hours. Then put them 
 in your saucepan, and do not let them boU (for that 
 
170 PICKLES 
 
 would spoil them), but simmer till they are of a fine 
 green. Put them hot in the jars, over which put 
 plates. When cold, cover them with bladder. 
 
 414. INDIAN PICKLE (Middlesex) 
 
 Boil in salt and water, for a quarter of an hour, 
 a cauliflower, two summer cabbages, six heads of 
 celery, a quart of French beans, and two sticks of 
 sKced horseradish ; drain and dry in the sun, or by 
 the fire, until very crisp, having first divided the 
 vegetables into small neat pieces : half a pound of 
 garlic is to be put into salt for three days, and dried 
 in the same way : have ready in a jar half a pound 
 of bruised and washed whole ginger, two ounces of 
 bruised mustard-seed, two ounces of turmeric, two 
 ounces of black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of 
 cayenne pepper, and an ounce of allspice : sprinkle 
 these with salt, and let them stand for a day before 
 the vegetables are added : then put in the vegetables, 
 and pour over them, boiling hot, two quarts of the 
 strongest white wine vinegar. 
 
 416. LEMON PICKLE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take two dozen lemons, grate off the outer rind 
 very thin, cut them in four quarters, and leave 
 the bottoms whole ; rub on them equally half a pound 
 of bay salt, and spread them on a large dish. Put 
 them in a cool oven, or let them dry gradually by the 
 fire till all the juice is dried into the peels ; then put 
 them into a well-glazed pitcher (or jar), with one ounce 
 of mace, half an ounce of cloves beat fine, one ounce 
 of nutmeg cut in thin slices, four ounces of garlic 
 peeled, half a pint of mustard-seed, bruised a little 
 
PICKLES 171 
 
 and tied in a muslin bag ; pour four quarts of boiling 
 white wine vinegar upon them, close the pitcher 
 well up, and let it stand five or six days by the fire ; 
 shake it well up every day ; then tie it up, and let 
 it stand for three months to take off the bitter taste. 
 When you bottle it, put the pickle and lemon in a 
 hair sieve, press them well, to take out the liquor, 
 and let it stand till another day, then pour off the 
 clear part, and bottle it ; let the rest stand three or 
 four days and it will refine itself, then pour it off and 
 bottle it ; let it stand again, and bottle it, till the 
 whole is refined : it may be put in any white sauce, 
 and will not hurt the colour. It is very good for 
 fish sauce and made dishes ; a teaspoonful is enough 
 for white, and two for brown sauce for fowl. It is a 
 most useful pickle, and gives a pleasant flavour ; 
 be sure you put it in before you thicken the sauce, or 
 put any cream in, lest the sharpness make it curdle. 
 
 416. LYONS PICKLE (French) 
 (Generally called Yellow Pickle) 
 
 Take a large cauliflower, two heads of cabbages, 
 and five or six carrots cut into neat pieces, a quart 
 of French beans sliced, a pint of green peas (if in 
 season) and three or four ounces of garlic : cover 
 a sieve with a layer of salt, and put them upon it ; 
 then sprinkle them with salt plentifully. After they 
 have lain in this way for two days, divide them into 
 two or three sieves, and place them in the sun to dry 
 for ten or twelve days : put them into a jar with a 
 quarter of a pound of white mustard-seed or three 
 ounces of the seed, and one of ginger, two ounces of 
 turmeric, and two teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper ; 
 
172 PICKLES 
 
 a quart of young onions prepared as for pickling may 
 be added. Pour over sufficient boiling vinegar to 
 cover them completely, and leave about an inch or 
 two of liquid above the vegetables. 
 
 417. TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS (Sussex) 
 Put the smallest you can get into a pan of spring 
 water, and rub them with a piece of flannel dipped 
 in salt, and when well washed, set them on the fire 
 in a pan of boiling water, with a little salt in it. 
 When they have boiled five or six minutes, lay them 
 on a colander to drain. Then lay them between 
 two cloths till they are cold. Put them in wide- 
 mouthed bottles with a few blades of mace and some 
 sliced nutmeg ; fill the bottles with vinegar, and cork 
 them down. 
 
 418. TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS BROWN (Surrey) 
 Shake a little salt over, and leave them till next 
 day ; then stick an onion full of cloves, which put 
 with them into a skillet, and let them stew very 
 well ; then add some vinegar, and let that also stew 
 for some time. 
 
 419. NASTURTIUM BUDS (SEEDS) PICKLED 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Gather your little knobs quickly after the blossoms 
 are off, put them in cold water and salt for three days, 
 shifting them once a day. Then make a pickle for 
 them (but don't boil them at all), of some white 
 wine and some white wine vinegar, shalot, horse- 
 radish, whole pepper, salt, and a blade or two of 
 mace. Then put in your seeds, and stopper them 
 close up. They are to be eaten as capers. 
 
PICKLES 173 
 
 420. PICKLED YOUNG ONIONS (Middlesex) 
 
 Peel them, and steep them in strong salt and 
 water for four days, changing the water two or three 
 times ; wipe them perfectly dry and put them into 
 milk which is scalding hot, until the milk becomes 
 cold : now drain them, and dry each separately in 
 a cloth ; after which put them into jars, pour as 
 much white wine vinegar (which has been boiled with 
 white pepper), as wiU cover them completely ; tie 
 over first with wet bladder, and then with leather, 
 and keep the jars in a dry place for use : a little 
 ginger may be added. Some persons put the onions, 
 without peeling, into cold water, and keep them on 
 the fire till the water boils : then they take off the 
 outer skins, and steep them in salt and water 
 before adding the vinegar. 
 
 421. PICKLED PRUNES (Ireland) 
 
 One pound of prunes, haK a pound of sugar, a 
 little cinnamon, a few cloves. Wash the primes, 
 prick them with a needle. One pint of vinegar to 
 four pounds of prunes. Boil all together without 
 the prunes ; throw it boiling over them. Let it 
 stand a night, then boil all together very slowly 
 till the skin is a Uttle broken. When done, cover 
 it well. 
 
 422. TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Wash your samphire well in sour small beer, 
 then put it into a large preserving pan, dissolve a 
 little bay salt and twice the quantity of common 
 
174 PICKLES 
 
 salt in sour beer, then fill up your pan with it, cover 
 it close, and set it over a slow fire till it is of a fine 
 green. Drain it through a sieve, and put it into 
 jars. Boil as much white wine vinegar as will be 
 sufficient to cover it, with a race or two of ginger, 
 and a few peppercorns. Pour this hot upon your 
 samphires in the jars, and tie them down. 
 
 423. PICKLED GREEN WALNUTS (Surrey) 
 
 Gather green walnuts before the inner shell is 
 formed, which may be known by pricking them with 
 a pin ; if it goes through easily, they are young 
 enough to pickle. Prick them in several places 
 with a needle or pin, to allow them to imbibe the 
 salt, and put them in strong brine for a fortnight, 
 making fresh salt and water every three days : 
 drain them, and put them in a jar, sprinkle them 
 with salt, and pour over (hot) vinegar boiled as for 
 cabbage ; some shalots, garlic, or onion may be 
 boiled in the vinegar, if the flavour is not disliked. 
 Some persons dry the walnuts in the sun for three 
 or four days, after having left the brine, and before 
 the vinegar is added. 
 
 424. RIPE WALNUT PICKLE (Middlesex) 
 
 Pound the rinds of ripe walnuts in a mortar with a 
 little salt ; then add water by degrees, and continue 
 to pound the whole together ; pass the whole through 
 a sieve, so as to get out a strong liquor ; boil this 
 with ginger, horseradish and sweet herbs, white 
 pepper, a few cloves, and salt, for half an hour very 
 slowly ; strain and put it into bottle, adding the 
 
PICKLES 175 
 
 spice ; the trouble of pounding may be avoided by 
 putting the rinds bruised into a tub with a little 
 salt, and sufficient water to cover them, and straining 
 off the liquor at the end of a few days. (This is 
 so far as the recipe goes : but I presume the kernels 
 are separately pickled as above (see " Green Wal- 
 nuts "), and this liquor is subsequently added. Ed.) 
 
 425. VEGETABLE MARROW PICKLE (Sussex) 
 
 Take a good-sized marrow and cut it up into 
 small cubes, none more than two and a half inches 
 long. Put it into a preserving pan, with a layer 
 of Demerara sugar upon each layer of marrow, and 
 enough vinegar to cover it. Let it cook thus until 
 completely tender ; then add some stoned raisins, 
 mixed spices, ginger, salt, and pepper, and let it go 
 on boiling until it is quite thick and stiff. Take 
 it off and let it cool down a little before bottling. 
 
 426. PICKLING MIXTURES (Surrey) 
 
 I 
 
 Twenty quarts of spring water, three pounds of 
 coarse brown sugar, quarter of a poimd of saltpetre, 
 two pounds of bay salt. 
 
 II 
 
 One stone of common salt, quarter of a stone of 
 bay salt, four ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of 
 brown sugar, to four gallons of water. 
 
176 PICKLES 
 
 III 
 
 Half a pound of salt, two ounces of ginger, two 
 ounces of shalots, two ounces of mustard-seed, one 
 ounce of white pepper, one tablespoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, boiled together in two quarts of vinegar. 
 All the vegetables except onions may be put in it, 
 merely first wiping them dry. Put the pickle before 
 the fire for nine days to give it a good colour. It 
 will keep for years. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 PUDDINGS 
 
 Note. — The pudding, from time immemorial, has 
 been an English dish par excellence ; and our fore- 
 fathers simply ran riot in puddings. I have declined 
 the insertion of puddings which would make the 
 boldest stand aghast, from their daring novelty in 
 the way of ill-matched ingredients, or their excursion 
 far afield into realms of indefensible costliness. 
 The vast number of recipes which are offered to the 
 reader, represent a wide and comprehensive range, 
 the Poles of the pudding world ; it will be seen 
 how many counties have contributed their quota 
 to this remarkably extensive list. I should like 
 to underline the respective merits of very many : 
 but here, as in all else, " the proof of the pudding 
 is in the eating." As sheer curiosities, I have 
 included two rice puddings — one boiled, one baked, 
 dating from about the year 1820,' in Dublin. These 
 are, I fancy, quite unparalleled, and I am loth that 
 the recipes should be lost. 
 
 427. ALBERT PUDDING (Yorkshire) 
 
 Take six eggs, six apples, six ounces of bread 
 finely grated, six ounces stoned currants (raisins ?), 
 four ounces of sugar, a little salt and nutmeg. 
 12 177 
 
178 PUDDINGS 
 
 To be boiled slowly for three hours. Eaten with 
 melted butter. 
 
 428. APPLE AMBER (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Strip of rough puff pastry, one pound of apples, 
 two ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, two eggs, 
 two ounces of bread crumbs, a little grated lemon 
 rind. Line the sides of a pie-dish with the strip of 
 pastry, decorating the edge. Peel, core, and cut 
 up the apples. Stew these until quite tender, add 
 the sugar, butter, bread crumbs, and yolks of eggs. 
 Place this mixture in the pie-dish and bake for half 
 an hour. Beat up the whites stiffly, and two 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pile this meringue on top 
 of the apple mixture, and set slowly in a cool oven. 
 Decorate with cherries, and angehca. N.B. — This 
 pudding is excellent hot or cold. 
 
 429. BUTTERED APPLES (French) 
 
 Take some middle-sized apples, peel and core 
 them, and put them on little round sHces of bread 
 which have had all the crust taken off. Put in each 
 apple as much butter and sugar as it will hold. 
 Cook them in a good oven on a buttered tin, and 
 before serving put a teaspoonful of red currant 
 jelly in each apple. 
 
 430. APPLE DOWDY (Essex) 
 
 Take about one and a half pounds of apples, 
 slices of stale bread and butter, a little nutmeg, 
 one gill of water, one gill of golden syrup, two ounces 
 of Demerara sugar. Well butter a deep baking 
 
PUDDINGS 179 
 
 tin or pie-dish. Line the bottom with the thin 
 shoes of bread and butter. Peel, core, and slice the 
 apples, and nearly fill the dish with them. Grate 
 over a little nutmeg. Now mix the syrup and water, 
 pour it in over the apples. Put the sugar in a layer 
 on the top, and cover all with more bread and 
 butter. Cover the top over with a tin plate or lid, 
 and bake in a moderate oven about two hours. 
 Then loosen the edges with a knife, put on a hot 
 dish, and serve with sugar and cream ; or it can be 
 served in the dish it is cooked in. 
 
 431. EGG AND APPLE PUDDING (Yorkshire) 
 
 Beat an egg well, add one gill of milk or water, 
 seven tablespoonfuls of flour, one saltspoonful of 
 salt, mix well together. Pare and cut into pieces 
 three middle-sized apples, stir them into the batter. 
 Boil in a cloth for one and a quarter hours ; if in 
 a basin, ten minutes longer. Eat with melted 
 butter flavoured with lemon. (Sugar seems to 
 have been omitted. Ed.) 
 
 432. GRANDMOTHER'S APPLE PUDDING 
 (Somerset) 
 
 Take half a pound of plain flour, three ounces of 
 minced suet, three ounces of cold boiled potato, 
 a little salt ; apples. Peel, core, and cut up the 
 apples, rub the potato in the flour (as you would 
 butter), add the chopped suet and salt. Wet with 
 a little water, roll out on to a floured board. Grease 
 a pudding basin, line it with the crust, put the 
 apples in with a little sugar, wet the edges and put 
 
180 PUDDINGS 
 
 on the top crust. Flour a thick pudding-cloth, tie 
 down, put into boihng water and boil for three 
 hours. This can be made the day before it is 
 wanted, and not boiled till the next day, when it 
 will turn out a nice biscuit colour. Can be made 
 two days before boiling, but not longer, as the 
 potato turns sour. Same crust can be used for all 
 boiled suet-puddings. 
 
 433. ROYAL APPLE PUDDING (American) 
 
 Line a pie-dish with a good paste and bake it a 
 golden brown. Make a good custard with three yolks 
 of eggs and half a pint of milk, with sugar to taste. 
 Have ready half a pound of good thick apple sauce. 
 When the paste is baked, put a layer of apple sauce, 
 then a layer of red currant jelly, and over this pour 
 the custard. Have ready baked straws of pastry cut 
 the length and width of the tart. Put them lattice- 
 fashion over the custard, then set in oven for five 
 minutes. 
 
 434. AUNTIE'S PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Well butter a plain mould, stick alternate rows 
 of split raisins and sliced candied peel round it. 
 Pour a breakf astcupf ul of fresh milk, which has been 
 warmed and mixed with a piece of butter the size of 
 a walnut, over a teacupful of white breadcrumbs, let 
 it soak for a time, then add two beaten eggs, any 
 flavouring that is liked — crushed ratafia biscuits are 
 very nice — beat all well together, pour it into a 
 mould, cover it closely and allow it to steam for 
 two hours. Serve orange sauce round. 
 
PUDDmOS 181 
 
 435. AUSTRALIAN PUDDING (Essex) 
 
 Line a pudding basin with good suet paste, 
 then set a lemon, end up, in the bottom, with a 
 little peel cut ofi to flatten it, so that it will keep 
 steady. Put a deep layer of well-picked sultanas 
 around it, up to about the top of the lemon : 
 then a layer of paste, then a thinner layer of 
 sultanas, and so on till the basin be full (it should 
 not be too large a basin). Cover with paste, like 
 any other boiled pudding, and steam or boil for 
 two and a half to three hours. When cooked, turn 
 it out upon a hot dish, and let it be cut at table with 
 a very sharp knife, so that a little slice of the lemon 
 goes with each helping. This is particularly good. 
 
 436. AUSTRIAN PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Mix together one pound of dried and sifted flour, 
 two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, six ounces of 
 suet, two teaspoonfuls of chopped candied peel 
 (lemon) and a tablespoonful of moist sugar. Mix 
 a teacupful of treacle with a breakfastcupful of 
 warm milk, stir it smoothly into the other ingredients, 
 pour into a well-greased mould, cover with a cloth, 
 and boil for three hours. 
 
 437. BAKEWELL PUDDING (Derbyshire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of flour, two ounces of butter, 
 a pinch of salt, a little water. Rub the butter into 
 the flour, add the water and mix from the centre. 
 Do not make it too moist. Flour a board, and work 
 the paste till quite smooth. Roll it out, and line 
 the edge of a pie-dish with a broad band of paste. 
 Cut the remainder into rounds with a cutter, and 
 
182 PUDDINGS 
 
 put them overlapping one another all round edge 
 of pie-dish, lifting the first so that the edge is com- 
 plete. Mark each round of paste with top of paste- 
 brush handle, and make a line with a skewer as 
 ornamentation . 
 
 Put about two tablcspoonfuls of jam into bottom of 
 pie-dish. For filling mixture, take two ounces of 
 butter, two ounces of castor sugar, two ounces of 
 flour, one egg, one teaspoonful baking powder, 
 eight drops essence of lemon. Cream the butter and 
 sugar together. Add the egg whole and beat well. 
 Mix the flour, baking powder, and essence of lemon 
 together, and add to the above and mix well. Put 
 this mixture on the top of the jam in the pie-dish, 
 and spread it with a knife, evenly covering all the 
 jam. Bake in a good oven for half an hour. This is a 
 a very old recipe. 
 
 438. BETSY SOUFFLE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take three ounces of sponge-cake crumbs, and 
 on them pour one pint of hot milk ; cover and set to 
 cool. Beat up two eggs, leaving out the white of 
 one, with one teaspoonful of brandy, and add to 
 the cake and milk. Line the bottom of a pie-dish 
 with apricot jam, and pour the above mixture on 
 the top. Bake in a steady oven for hah an hour. 
 Beat up the second white of egg to a stiff froth, pUe 
 it on pudding, and just brown in oven. Serve hot 
 or cold. 
 
 439. CREAM BLANC MANGE (Somerset) 
 
 To one ounce of Nelson's gelatine add half a pint 
 of new milk. Let it soak for thirty minutes. Boil 
 
PUDDINGS 183 
 
 two or three laurel leaves in a pint of cream and 
 half a pint of milk. When boiling pour over the 
 soaked gelatine. Stir it till it dissolves ; add four 
 ounces of lump sugar and a tablespoonful of brandy. 
 Strain it through muslin. Stir occasionally until 
 it thickens, then pour into wet moulds. 
 
 440. BOLTON PUDDING (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Three ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, one and 
 a haK ounces of sugar, one egg, one small teaspoonful 
 of baking powder, three tablespoonfuls of milk, a 
 little jam. Butter a basin and place the jam at the 
 bottom. Rub the butter in the flour, add the 
 sugar and baking powder, mix up with the beaten 
 egg and milk, pour into the buttered basin. Steam 
 for one and a half hours ; serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 441. BONITA PUDDING (Ireland) 
 
 Take two eggs, juice of two lemons, rind of one, 
 half a pound of castor sugar, quarter of an ounce of 
 gelatine, melted in less than half a tumbler of water 
 (small teacupful). Cream the yolks and sugar, add 
 lemon juice, rind, and gelatine. Mix well, leave 
 till beginning to thicken, then stir in whites beaten 
 stiff. Pour into glass dish, and leave to set. Serve 
 with whipped cream when cold. This is very good ; 
 but be careful that the whites are not added till 
 the mixture is getting thick, or it will set in two 
 layers, instead of being of one consistency through- 
 out. 
 
184 PUDDINGS 
 
 442. BRADFORD PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take three eggs and their weight in butter, sugar, 
 and flour ; cream the butter and sugar well together, 
 add the grated rind of a lemon, a good tablespoonful 
 of cream, and one of brandy ; sprinkle in the flour, 
 fill some small buttered moulds with the mixture, 
 stand them on sand on a baking tin to prevent 
 the puddings getting too brown, and bake about 
 fifteen minutes. Pour some sherry over them, or 
 some wine sauce round them. 
 
 443. BREAD-PUDDINGS (SMALL) (Cheshire) 
 
 Pour one pint of boiling water over half a pint of 
 fine bread crumbs ; add three eggs well-beaten, the 
 rind of half a lemon, and sugar to taste. Butter 
 some small moulds, or " castle-pudding " tins, fill 
 them with the mixture, and bake it a light brown. 
 Turn the puddings out on a hot dish, and sprinkle 
 sifted sugar over, or put a little warmed jam on 
 the tops. 
 
 II 
 
 Butter well some small plain moulds, and put in 
 each a layer of fine bread crumbs half an inch thick ; 
 then a layer of jam ; and so on till the moulds are 
 nearly full. Beat up an egg, and add to it half a 
 pint of milk, with sugar and flavouring to taste. 
 Pour this very slowly into the moulds, and bake about 
 twenty minutes. Turn out the puddings and serve 
 with sweet sauce. 
 
PUDDINGS 188 
 
 444. BROWN BETTY (Yorkshire) 
 
 Take two dozen fine large apples, and cut them 
 into thin slices, pare them if preferred ; crumb up 
 a loaf of stale bread. Take a deep pudding-dish, 
 put in a layer of bread crumbs, then one of apples, 
 sprinkle over them some brown sugar, put in a piece 
 of butter and any spice that may be preferred, then 
 sprinkle in a very little cold water. Put in another 
 layer of crumbs, apples, sugar, butter, spice, and 
 water again ; go on until the dish is full, making 
 the top layer of apples. Bake in a quick oven. 
 Eat hot with sugar and wine sauce. 
 
 445. CABINET PUDDING (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Line a mould with stoned raisins, first buttering 
 the mould well; then put thin slices of bread, 
 some chopped lemon peel, and pour in a glass of 
 brandy. Beat six eggs, yolks and whites, and milk 
 enough to fill the mould ; sweeten it to taste, set it 
 in a basin half filled with boiling water, put it in the 
 oven to bake. 
 
 446. CANTERBURY PUDDING (Kent) 
 
 Take half a pound of suet, chopped fine, half a 
 pound of grated bread, half a pound of sugar, the 
 juice and rind of one lemon grated fine, three eggs, and 
 a large wineglassful of brandy ; to be boiled an hour 
 and three-quarters, and served with sweet sauce. 
 
 447. CARROT PUDDING (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take three or four clean red carrots, boil and 
 peel them. Take the red part of the carrots, beat 
 
186 PUDDINGS 
 
 it very fine, put it to the crumb of a penny loaf, 
 six eggs, half a pound of clarified butter, two or 
 three tablespoonfuls of rosewater, a little shredded 
 lemon-peel, a little grated nutmeg. Mix all well to- 
 gether, bake the pudding with a pufl-paste round 
 your dish, and have a little white wine, butter, 
 and sugar for the sauce. 
 
 448. CARROT PUDDING (1815) 
 
 Wash and scrape your carrots, and boil them till 
 quite soft, in a good quantity of water ; take off 
 the outsides, and grate a quarter of a pound of the 
 middle part of the carrots ; add to it a quarter of 
 a pound of clarified butter, four eggs well beaten, 
 and candied orange and lemon peel finely cut ; sugar 
 and brandy to your taste ; bake it in a dish with 
 a puff paste at the bottom. 
 
 449. CASTLE PUDDING (Lancashire) 
 
 One and a half ounces of flour, one and a half 
 ounces of castor sugar, one ounce of butter, one tea- 
 spoonful of baking powder, one egg, a little milk, 
 flavouring. Cream the butter and sugar, add the 
 egg and part of flour, then the rest of the flour and 
 baking powder. Pour into cup-shaped tins. Bake 
 for about twelve or fifteen minutes. Serve with 
 clear arrowroot sauce or jam sauce. 
 
 460. CAROLINA SNOWBALLS (American) 
 
 Boil some rice in milk until quite soft ; prepare 
 some large apples as for apple dumplings, and 
 having placed as much of the rice on a small cloth 
 
PUDDINGS 187 
 
 as will entirely cover the apple like a crust, tie each 
 up closely, and boil for two hours ; serve with 
 melted butter and sugar, or with wine sauce. 
 
 451. CAULIFLOWER PUDDING (Seventeenth 
 Century) 
 
 Boil the cauliflowers in milk, then lay them 
 (without leaves or staUis) in a pie dish. Take 
 three gills of cream, the yolks of eight eggs, and the 
 whites of two. Season with nutmeg, sugar, mace, 
 cinnamon, sack (sherry), or orange-flower water. 
 Put it in the oven, bake it as you would do a custard, 
 and grate sugar over it when it comes out of the 
 oven. Serve with a sweet rich wine sauce. 
 
 452. CITRON PUDDINGS (Kent, 1809) 
 
 The yolks of three eggs, beat ia half a pint of 
 cream, one spoonful of flour, two ounces of citron, 
 cut thin, sugar to the taste ; put them into large 
 cups, buttered ; bake them in a pretty quick oven, 
 turn them out and grate some sugar over them. 
 For sauce, melted butter, wine, and sugar. 
 
 453. CHOCOLATE MOULD (Devonshire) 
 
 One pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of cocoa, 
 two tablespoonfuls of cornflour, two tablespoonfuls 
 of sugar. Mix the cocoa and cornflour to a smooth 
 paste with a little cold milk, bring the remainder 
 to boiling point, and add the sugar, then pour 
 slowly on the paste, stirring all the time ; return to 
 the saucepan and cook very slowly ; stir all the 
 time, as it easily sticks. Pour into a wet mould. 
 
188 PUDDINGS 
 
 454. CHOCOLATE PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take about half a pound of stale bread, and break 
 it into small pieces. Pour over it a pint of boiling 
 milk, and let it stand to cool. Then beat with a 
 fork. Add two ounces of sugar, an ounce of oUed 
 butter, and a dessertspoonful of cocoa. Stir it all 
 together over the fire, until the cocoa tastes cooked. 
 Remove it from the fire, and when thoroughly cooled 
 add two well-beaten eggs. Pour the mixture in a 
 buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 
 half or three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot. 
 
 456. CORNISH PUDDING (Cornwall) 
 
 Work four ounces of dripping or lard with one 
 pound of pastry flour, then add one pinch of salt, 
 two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of baking- 
 powder. Beat up one egg with a little milk ; grease 
 a pudding basin and put an inch layer of preserve 
 or marmalade at the bottom. Flavour the pudding 
 mixture with lemon, and arrange on the jam so as to 
 half fill the mould. Cover with a cloth, dipped into 
 boiling water and floured, and steam for three hours. 
 The pudding will quite fill the basin when cooked, 
 and should turn out well with jam on the top. 
 Serve with any sweet sauce. 
 
 456. COLCHESTER PUDDING (Essex) 
 
 Take one pint of milk, two ounces of tapioca, the 
 rind of one lemon, vanilla, two tablespoonfuls of 
 castor sugar, stewed fruit, custard, whites of two 
 eggs. Put a layer of any stewed fruit in a glass dish. 
 Put the milk in a clean pan on the fire, pare the 
 
PUDDINGS 189 
 
 lemon rind very thinly and put it in. Bring the milk 
 slowly to the boil, strain out the rind, and sprinkle 
 in the tapioca. Simmer this very slowly in the milk 
 till it is soft and creamy. Keep the lid on, but stir 
 it frequently. Then add sugar and vanilla to taste. 
 Pour it on to the fruit ; it should be just thick enough 
 to flow over it nicely. If too thick, add a little more 
 nulk. Let this get cold, then pour over a good 
 boiled custard. Lastly, beat up the whites of the 
 eggs to a very stiff froth ; sweeten with the castor 
 sugar, and add a few drops of vanilla. Colour the 
 froth a pale pink with a few drops of cochineal. 
 Heap it over the top of the custard. 
 
 457. CUMBERLAND PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Mix together in a basin six ounces of bread 
 crumbs, four ounces of beef suet, four ounces of 
 sugar, six ounces of sour apple, chopped, a table- 
 spoonful of treacle, the grated rind of a lemon, a 
 little mixed spice, and a teaspoonful of baking 
 powder. Bind together with two eggs beaten up 
 with half a teacupful of milk. Turn into a greased 
 mould, cover with a greased paper, and steam in a 
 saucepan, for not less than two hours. Serve with 
 some liquefied apple jelly as sauce. 
 
 458. DAME BLANC PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Boil a pint of milk, having put into it three ounces 
 of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter almonds ; 
 then pour the milk on to three yolks of eggs, add 
 some gelatine, let cool, then add three whites 
 whipped stiff, and a little cream. When the mould is 
 turned out, cover with red currant jelly and sherry. 
 
190 PUDDINGS 
 
 459. AN EXCELLENT DATE PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Procure one pound of dates at about 2d. per pound, 
 scald them in boiling water for a moment, and set 
 near the fire to dry ; remove the stones, and 
 chop the fruit small. Put six ounces of flour in a 
 basin, add a pinch of salt to it, and a little baking 
 powder, mix in four ounces of finely chopped suet, 
 add the chopped dates, about a quarter of a grated 
 nutmeg, and two ounces of brown sugar. Moisten 
 the pudding Avith as little water as possible or, better 
 still, one egg, and boil the whole in a buttered basin 
 for four hours. Serve with a little scalded cream, 
 or a nicely flavoured cornflour sauce. 
 
 460. DEVIL'S FOOD (American) 
 
 Take a cupful of brown sugar, three eggs, one 
 cupful of butter, two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder, half a cupful of milk. Stir 
 this into a batter, and let it cool. Next take a quarter 
 of a cake of chocolate, half a cup of milk, one cupful 
 of brown sugar. Melt this, but do not let it boil ; 
 then mix all together and bake. (Breakfastcups 
 are probably meant. Ed.) 
 
 461. DEVON "STIR-UP" PUDDING (Devonshire) 
 
 One breakfastcupful of flour, one apple cut up, 
 one tablespoonful of currants, one tablespoonful of 
 suet chopped, half a teaspoonful of baking powder, 
 and a pinch of salt. Mix all together to a stiff paste 
 with a little water, and steam in a basin for one and 
 a half hours. Serve with a sauce of treacle and 
 milk in equal parts — heated, but not boiled. This 
 
PUDDINGS 191 
 
 pudding is also excellent when made with rhubarb, 
 gooseberries, or any sort of fruit. The above quanti- 
 ties make a small pudding sufficient for two or three 
 persons. 
 
 462. DEVONSHIRE WHITE-POT 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a penny white loaf sliced very thin ; make 
 two quarts of new milk scaldiag hot, then put it to 
 the bread, and break it up and put it through a 
 colander. Then put in four eggs, a little spice, 
 sugar, raisins and currants, and a little salt, and bake 
 it, but not too long, or it will whey (i.e., curdle). 
 
 463. ELIZABETH'S PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One pound of stale bread, one pound of stewed 
 rhubarb, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of suet, 
 one egg. Soak the bread in just enough milk to 
 cover. When quite soft, squeeze dry and break 
 up with a fork ; add the chopped suet, sugar, and 
 beaten egg. Line a greased pie-dish with the 
 mixture. Pour in the stewed rhubarb, or any other 
 stewed fruit sweetened. Cover with another layer 
 of bread. Bake in a moderately hot oven for one 
 hour and a half. Serve hot. 
 
 464. EXETER PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take three tablespoonfuls of white bread crumbs, 
 three of sago, three of finely minced suet, and four 
 of white sugar. Mix these ingredients with two 
 well-beaten eggs, a cupful of milk, adding a few 
 drops of almond essence, and a pinch of salt. Butter 
 
192 PUDDINGS 
 
 a mould, put in a layer of sponge rusks and ratafias, 
 spread a layer of raspberry jam over, then a layer of 
 the above mixture at the top. Cover with a buttered 
 paper, let it stand a few hours, or over night, then 
 bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. For a 
 sauce, boil a pound of red currants and raspberry 
 jam with an equal quantity of water and some 
 lumps of sugar ; strain and pour round the pudding. 
 
 465. FAVOURITE PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 The necessary ingredients are one egg, one third 
 of a pint of milk, a quarter of an oiuice of gelatine, 
 and one ounce of castor sugar. Soak the gelatine 
 in a small quantity of the milk, beat the yolk of an 
 egg, and add it to the milk with the ounce of sugar. 
 Bring the rest of the milk to the boU, and pour it 
 over the gelatine, etc. ; stir well and let the mixture 
 boil again. Directly it reaches boiling point, pour 
 it over the well-beaten white of egg, mix the 
 whole thoroughly, and pour into a mould. The 
 pudding must not be stirred or shaken till cold, 
 when it should be turned out, and it will look like a 
 thick cream, surmounted by a clear jelly. 
 
 466. FIG PUDDING (Ireland) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of bread crumbs, a 
 quarter of a pound of figs, three ounces of suet, three 
 ounces of brown sugar, salt, two eggs, juice of one 
 lemon, peel of half a lemon. Mince suet and figs. 
 Pass all the dry ingredients through mincer, mix well, 
 add eggs well beaten. Beat all well. Steam in 
 buttered mould three or four hours. 
 
PUDDINGS 193 
 
 467. FRIAR'S OMELETTE (Essex) 
 Make six moderate-sized apples iato sauce, 
 sweeten with powdered loaf sugar, stir in two ounces 
 of butter, and, when cold, mix with two well-beaten 
 eggs. Butter a tart-dish, and strew the bottom 
 and sides' thickly with bread crumbs to the depth of 
 a quarter of an inch; put a little dissolved butter 
 on the top, and bake for an hour in a good oven. 
 When done, turn out and sift sugar over it. 
 
 468. FRUIT PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Dip a pudding basin or plain mould into cold 
 water. Line it with slices of bread, fill half full of 
 hot, stewed fruit, add a thin layer of thin bread, 
 then more stewed fruit nearly to fill the basin. 
 Cover with slices of bread and press it down with a 
 plate and weight. Turn out next day, and serve with 
 a custard or whipped cream round it. 
 
 469. GERMAN PUFFS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cream two ounces of butter, adding three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, and the yolks of three eggs ; then, 
 by degrees, add three teacupfuls of milk, the same 
 of flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and when they are all 
 well beaten together, the stifily-beaten whites of 
 three eggs, flavoured with vanilla. Half fill some 
 well-greased teacups, and bake for about twenty 
 minutes. Serve immediately with sweet sauce. 
 
 470. GERMAN TREACLE PUFFS (Hertfordshire) 
 Half a pound of flour, half a pound of treacle, 
 a quarter of a pound of suet, a quarter of a pound of 
 peel, one teaspoonful baking powder ; steam three 
 hours ; lemon sauce. 
 13 
 
194 PUDDINGS 
 
 471. GERMAN PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cook four ounces of rice in one and a half pints 
 of milk, until the milk is all absorbed. Let it cool 
 a little, turn into a basin and add a quarter of a 
 pound of beef suet, finely chopped, six ounces of 
 sultanas, one ounce of finely chopped candied peel, 
 half an ounce of ground sweet almonds, three ounces 
 of castor sugar, and the well-beaten yolks and whites 
 of four fresh eggs. Pour into a weU-buttered mould, 
 being careful not to fill within half an inch of the 
 top ; cover with a buttered paper and steam for three 
 hours. 
 
 472. PRESERVED GINGER PUDDING (Essex) 
 
 Take two eggs and their weight in butter, sugar, 
 and flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, and 
 three ounces of preserved ginger. Beat the butter 
 to a cream, add the sugar and flour, with which the 
 baking-powder should be mixed, then the preserved 
 ginger cut into small dice. Beat the eggs, yolks and 
 whites separately, and add the yolks first to the 
 pudding, then the whites. Pour into a buttered 
 mould and steam for one and a half hours. Turn it 
 out to serve, and pour round a nice cream sauce. 
 
 473. A GOOD PUDDING (Devonshire) 
 
 Two ounces of butter, four ounces of flour, three 
 ounces of castor sugar, two eggs, one tablespoonful 
 of raspberry jam. Cream the butter and sugar, 
 and let it stand for fifteen minutes, then add the 
 flour and eggs alternately, and lastly mix in the 
 jam. Steam for two hours. 
 
PUDDINGS 195 
 
 474. HELSTON PUDDING (Yorkshire) 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls each of flour, sugar, bread 
 crumbs, ground rice, currants, and sultanas, three 
 tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, one tablespoonful cut 
 candied peel, pinch of salt. Mix up with milk in 
 which one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda has been 
 dissolved. Boil or steam in a greased basin for 
 two or three hours. 
 
 475. HOMINY SNOWBALLS (Sussex) 
 
 Take one pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of 
 hominy, and sweeten with white sugar. Put it into 
 a jug, or jar, which must stand in a saucepan of boil- 
 ing water. Let it simmer for two and a half hours, 
 then turn it out into teacups. These are subse- 
 quently turned out, when the hominy is set, and a 
 little jam should be put on the top of each " snow- 
 ball." 
 
 476. KENTISH PUDDING-PIES 
 
 Thinly pare half a lemon, boil the rind in a pint 
 of milk, and strain it out. Add to the milk three 
 ounces of ground rice and a pinch of salt, and boil it 
 for a quarter of an hour, stirring continually. Then 
 add (with care not to curdle the eggs) one ounce of 
 butter, two ounces of sugar, two well-beaten eggs. 
 When the mixture is cold, line some patty-pans 
 with good paste, fill them with the mixture, and 
 bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. 
 
 477. LEMON PUDDING (1815) 
 
 Put haK a pound of fresh butter and half a pound 
 of lump sugar into a saucepan, and keep it stirred 
 
196 PUDDINGS 
 
 over the fire till it boils ; put it into an earthen jar, 
 and grate the rind of a large lemon into it, and let 
 it stand till it is cold ; beat eight eggs and squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon on them, mix the sugar and 
 butter with them, put them in a dish with a good 
 pufE paste at the bottom, put bits of candied lemon 
 peel in the dish upon the paste. To be baked in 
 the usual manner. 
 
 478. BAKED LEMON PUDDING (Hampshire) 
 One pint of milk, two eggs, one lemon, bread, 
 
 sugar to taste. Boil the milk and put into it about 
 two ounces of bread cut in dice, and the grated rind 
 of one lemon. Add the beaten yolks of the eggs, 
 pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake 
 gently in a slow oven until set. Now whip the white 
 of the eggs, with the lemon juice, tiU stiff ; replace 
 in the oven till lightly browned, and serve either 
 hot or cold. This is equally good made with orange 
 instead of lemon. 
 
 479. COLD LEMON PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 Put the rind of three lemons in a pint of milk, 
 
 and strain it on the yolks of six eggs, well beaten ; 
 sweeten to taste. Dissolve an omice of gelatine 
 in a little milk, and add it to the custard. Beat 
 the six whites and mix all together in a basin. 
 Stir it frequently till nearly cold, when put it in a 
 mould till wanted. 
 
 480. LIGHT PUDDING (Kent) 
 Break into a basin the yolks of two eggs, one 
 spoonful of flour, the same of sifted sugar. Mix the 
 
PUDDINGS 197 
 
 whole ; beat the whites to a firm froth, add them to 
 the other, put some jam in a pie-dish, put the 
 mixture on it, and bake for ten minutea. 
 
 481. LIGHT PUDDING (Sussex) 
 
 Take four ounces of grated apples, two ounces of 
 bread, four ounces of sugar. Beat together and add 
 two eggs. Bake in a buttered dish. 
 
 482. LISTER PUDDING (Westmorland) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of flour, two ounces of castor 
 sugar, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 baking powder, one egg, three tablespoonfuls of 
 milk, a little jam. Rub the butter into the flour, 
 add the rest of the ingredients. Take a buttered 
 basia and line with jam or split raisins. Put in 
 the mixture and steam one and a quarter hours. 
 Serve with white sweet sauce or jam sauce. 
 
 483. MARGUERITE PUDDING (Surrey) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of flour, rub in two 
 ounces of butter ; add two ounces of castor sugar, 
 and one small teaspoonful of baking powder ; lastly 
 add a well-beaten-up egg, with enough milk to 
 moisten the whole. Pour into a buttered mould, 
 half -filling it only, as the pudding will rise : steam 
 for one hour ; warm about a small teacupful of jam 
 or marmalade in the oven, turn out the pudding on 
 a hot dish, and pour the jam over it. This is very 
 light and good. 
 
198 PUDDINGS 
 
 484. MARMALADE PUDDING (Devonshire) 
 Eight ounces flour, four ounces of bread crumbs, 
 four ounces of suet, two large tablespoonfuls of mar- 
 malade, two tablespoonfuls of Demerara sugar, one 
 egg, a teacupful of milk, one teaspoonful of carbonate 
 of soda. Mix flour, bread crumbs, suet, and sugar 
 together. Beat the egg, add the marmalade, stir 
 well and mix in. Then warm the milk, put ia the 
 soda, stir into the mixture to a soft dough, place ia a 
 greased basin (not quite to fill it), cover with greased 
 paper, and steam two and a half hours. 
 
 485. MARMALADE PUDDING (Isle of Wight) 
 Three tablespoonfuls of marmalade, two ounces 
 of moist sugar, one ounce of candied peel, three 
 ounces of bread crumbs, three ounces of flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of suet, one lemon, pinch of salt, 
 and one egg. Time to boil or steam, three and a 
 half hours. Chop the suet finely, rub the bread 
 crumbs through a sieve, put the flour, salt, and suet 
 into a basin and rub together with the fingers. 
 Add the bread crumbs, moist sugar, candied peel, 
 and marmalade, and cut the lemons in halves and 
 squeeze the juice also into the basin ; add the egg, and 
 mix all well together. Butter a pint basin and turn 
 the mixture into it. The basin must be quite full 
 for boiling, but need not be full for steaming. When 
 done, turn out carefully on to a hot dish, and serve 
 with sweet sauce or marmalade sauce. 
 
 486. MATTRESS (Durham) 
 Two teacupfuls flour, two ounces dripping or 
 butter, one teacupful castor sugar, one teaspoonful 
 
PUDDINGS 199 
 
 of baking-powder, one egg, and enough milk with 
 egg to fill a teacup. Rub the dripping into the flour, 
 add the baking powder and sugar, and mix. Beat 
 the egg, add the milk, and mix together. Bake on 
 a shallow tin from twenty to thirty minutes : spread 
 thickly with jam. If served hot, warm the jam 
 before spreading. 
 
 487. MOUNTAIN PUDDING (Isle of Wight) 
 Butter a pie-dish and line it with ratafias ; grate 
 the rind of a lemon over them. Mix two ounces of 
 flour with a little cold milk to a smooth paste, and 
 add cold milk gradually to make a pint ; boil this 
 for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour the 
 mixture gently over the ratafias and leave them 
 to soak for ten minutes. Beat the whites of two 
 eggs (the yolks are added to the flour mixture after 
 it is cooked) to a stiff froth, stir two ounces of castor 
 sugar to this, and add a little cornflour or arrowroot 
 to make the icing stiff. Arrange it on the pudding 
 in four or five little moulds, and put the pudding 
 in the oven till these are sHghtly browned. Serve 
 cold. This icing will take no harm if made two or 
 three hours before it is wanted. 
 
 488. MUFFIN PUDDING (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Spread some butter entirely over a basin, and 
 cover it with raisins stoned, then fill the basin with 
 thin slices of bread. Pour over it a pint of milk, 
 with four well-beaten eggs, nutmeg, and sugar. 
 Cover with a cloth and boil. 
 
 489. MYSTERIOUS PUDDING (Surrey) 
 Two eggs, their weight in flour, butter, and castor 
 sugar ; a tablespoonful of marmalade and a tea- 
 
200 PUDDINGS 
 
 spoonful of baking powder. Beat the butter and 
 sugar to a cream, add the flour (in which has been 
 mixed the baking powder) and the marmalade. 
 Beat the eggs well, yolks and whites separately, 
 adding whites lastly when the pudding is weU 
 mixed. Pour into a buttered basin, and steam for 
 one and a half hours. Turn out, spread a little 
 marmalade over the top, and pour sweet sauce 
 round (this sauce is not essential). 
 
 490. NEWARK PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One cupful of fine bread crumbs soaked in a pint 
 of milk, two well-whisked eggs, a tablespoonful of 
 rice flour, a quarter of a pound of raisins, stoned and 
 cut in pieces, a few drops of vanilla or almond 
 essence, and a pinch of carbonate of soda. Mix 
 all to a smooth batter, pour into a buttered pie- 
 dish, and bake gently for upwards of an hour. 
 
 491. NORFOLK DUMPLINGS 
 
 Take baker's dough and form dumplings the size 
 of a large egg. Then put plenty of sugar, butter, 
 and spices into a pan of hot milk, baste the 
 dumplings well with the milk, and bake a golden 
 brown. The dumplings, when cooked, should be 
 double the size they were when put into the oven. 
 
 492. NOTTINGHAM PUDDING 
 
 Peel six good apples, take out the cores and leave 
 the apples whole ; fill up with sugar where the core 
 was taken out ; place them in a pie-dish, and pour 
 over them a light batter, prepared as for a batter 
 pudding, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
PUDDINGS 201 
 
 493. OXFORDSHIRE PUDDING 
 
 Wash some rice well in several waters, and tie it 
 up, but not too tightly, in a pudding cloth : put it 
 on in cold water, and let it boU for two hours ; mix 
 some well-washed currants with the rice, and eat 
 with sweet sauce, or cold butter and sugar. 
 
 494. PATRIOTIC PUDDING (Yorkshire) 
 
 Two oiuices of flour, two ounces of butter, one and 
 a half ounces of castor sugar, one egg, half a tea- 
 spoonful baking powder, half a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice, salt, a little milk. Cream the butter and 
 sugar, add the beaten egg and milk alternately 
 with the flour, lastly add the baking powder. Put 
 some jam into the bottom of a greased basin. Pour 
 the mixture in and steam for one hour. 
 
 495. PINEAPPLE PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Take two ounces of butter, the same of flour, 
 half a pint of mUk, and four ounces of pineapple cut 
 up into dice. Take slices of pineapple, the yolks 
 and whites of three eggs, and a tablespoonful of 
 castor sugar. Take flour and butter together in a 
 stewpan and mix well, and let it boil. Stir it well 
 and add the eggs one by one, and beat them well in ; 
 then stir well in the juice of pineapples and sugar. 
 Put the mixture into a mould and put paper on top, 
 and steam it for three-quarters of an hour. Serve 
 sauce with it, composed of half a pint of liquor of the 
 pineapple, two ounces of sugar, and some lemon 
 juice, all boiled together till clear. A ginger pudding, 
 with preserved ginger, can be made the same way. 
 
202 PUDDINGS 
 
 496. CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDINGS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Five pounds of suet, three pounds of bread crumbs, 
 one and a half pounds of cornflour, one and a haK 
 pounds of flour, three pounds of raisins, three pounds 
 of sultanas, three pounds of currants, two pounds 
 of candied peel, four pounds of Demerara sugar, one 
 pound of sweet almonds, two pounds of apples, eight 
 lemons, two nutmegs, one pint of milk, twenty-four 
 eggs, half a pound of baking powder, one pint of 
 brandy. This makes eight good-sized puddings. 
 
 497. CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING (Ireland) 
 
 Crumb of three household loaves, three pounds of 
 sultanas, two pounds of Valentia raisins, one pound 
 Demerara sugar, one and a haK pounds of butter, 
 twelve eggs, half a pound of mixed candied peel, 
 allspice to taste. Mix all dry ingredients first, 
 melt butter and mix in, then add the eggs, and 
 flavour with whisky or sherry. (It will be seen 
 that the above contains no flour or suet, and is 
 therefore exceptionally light.) 
 
 498. VEGETABLE PLUM PUDDING (Kent) 
 
 One pound of mashed potatoes, half a pound of 
 mashed carrots, half a pound of flour, half a pound 
 of bread crumbs, half a pound of suet, one pound of 
 sugar, one pound of currants, one pound of raisins, 
 half a pound of mixed peel, one nutmeg (grated), 
 a quarter of a pound of almonds (grated), three 
 eggs. Boil in basins ten hours. 
 
PUDDINGS 203 
 
 499. POLKA PUDDING (Kent) 
 Put a tablespoonful of arrowroot into a pint of 
 cold milk. Beat six eggs well ; add to them three 
 ounces of fresh butter cut into small bits, a dessert- 
 spoonful of rosewater, a few drops of lemon or 
 ratafia, a teacupful of sugar. Boil two pints of milk, 
 when boiling stir in the other ingredients without 
 taking it from the fire, boil till thick, then put it in a 
 mould. Freeze it, if you have ice. 
 
 600. POMMES AU RIZ (Hertfordshire) 
 Take three tablespoonfuls of groimd rice, a pint 
 and half of milk, a dozen fair-sized apples, and yolks 
 of three eggs. Cook the rice in the milk. Peel 
 eight of the apples and cook them in a little water 
 and sugar to taste, and, as these will be too juicy, 
 crush and add the other four apples, having 
 previously peeled and cored them. Mix the rice and 
 the apples, and the yolks of the eggs, and cook for 
 five minutes, stirring all the time, then place in a 
 pie-dish, and brown in the oven. Just before 
 serving spread some jam over the top. 
 
 501. POUDING A LA MONSIEUR PLARCH 
 
 (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Two ounces of chopped apples, two ounces of 
 sugar, four ounces of breadcrumbs, tablespoonful 
 of marmalade, two eggs, a little baking powder. 
 Steam. 
 
 502. POTATO PUDDING (Ireland) 
 A pound of potatoes boiled and beaten fine,' six 
 ounces of butter melted in one prat of milk, twelve 
 
204 PUDDINGS 
 
 eggs, half the whites, the peel of three lemons, and 
 the juice of one. Sugar to taste. Boil or steam. 
 
 603. BOILED PUDDING TO BE EATEN COLD (Kent) 
 Four eggs, one pint of milk, one ounce of sugar, a 
 little grated lemon peel, two ounces of raisins, four 
 large spoonfuls of marmalade, six ladies' fingers 
 (Savoy sponge cakes). Sweeten the milk with sugar, 
 add the lemon peel, stir in the eggs, having well 
 beaten them ; line a buttered mould with the raisius 
 stoned and cut in half ; spread the slices of sponge 
 biscuits with the marmalade, and place in the mould; 
 pour in the custard ; tie the pudding down with 
 paper and a cloth, and boil gently for one hour. 
 When cold, turn out carefully. 
 
 504. PUDDING TO BE EATEN COLD (Shropshire) 
 Rice and milk boiled together with a laurel leaf, 
 pretty stiff. Add a good bit of butter, white sugar 
 powdered, six yolks and three whites of eggs. Put 
 all in a flat dish alternately with jam. Put it for 
 a few minutes before the fire to dry the top ; beat 
 up the remaining three whites, pour them over 
 and bake. To be eaten cold. 
 
 505. QUAKING PUDDING (Eighteenth Century) 
 Boil one quart of cream, and let it stand till 
 almost cold. Beat four eggs for half an hour, with 
 one and a half teaspoonfuls of flour, and then mix 
 them up with your cream. Add sugar and nutmeg 
 to taste : tie the pudding close up in a well-buttered 
 cloth, let it boil one hour and then turn it out 
 carefully. 
 
PUDDINGS 205 
 
 606. QUEEN OF PUDDINGS (Surrey) 
 One pint of bread crumbs, one quart of milk, one 
 teacupful of white sugar, yolks of four eggs, grated 
 rind of one lemon. Beat the yolks, sugar, and lemon 
 together, and stir in the crumbs. Bake to a light 
 brown colour. Then beat the whites of the four 
 eggs to a stiff froth, with four tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
 Spread currant jelly over the top of the pudding ; 
 spread over this the beaten whites, and set it back 
 in the oven long enough to brown slightly. Serve 
 cold. A little vanilla may be used in place of 
 lemon. 
 
 607. QUEEN'S PUDDING (Kent) 
 Half a pint of cream, one pint of mUk, sugar, to 
 boil together for a quarter of an hour. Add the 
 yolks of three eggs well beaten, then place in a 
 shape, covered with a piece of thin paper. Boil for 
 one hour, serve it with sauce made of red currant 
 jelly and sherry. 
 
 608. RASPBERRY PUDDING (Hampshire) 
 Two eggs, their weight in butter and castor sugar, 
 the weight of three eggs in flour, two tablespoon- 
 fuls raspberry jam, half a teaspoonful carbonate 
 of soda. Put the soda in the flour dry, rub in the 
 butter, add the sugar, jam, and eggs. Mix, put in 
 buttered basin, steam or boil for two hours. 
 
 509. RASPBERRY PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 Half a pound of bread crumbs, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter (creamed), a quarter of a poimd of 
 sugar, one tablespoonful flour, four tablespoon- 
 
206 PUDDINGS 
 
 fuls raspberry jam, half a teaspoonful baking 
 powder, two eggs. Mix all thoroughly and put into 
 a mould, and steam for two hours. 
 
 510. RAILWAY PUDDING (Ireland) 
 Required, two ounces of butter beaten with a 
 teacupful of flour ; add a teacupful of castor sugar, 
 a small tablespoonful of baking powder, half a tea- 
 cupful of milk, and one egg. Bake fifteen to twenty 
 minutes on two flat tins. Spread with jam and fold 
 over. 
 
 611. REFORM PUDDINGS (Yorkshire) 
 The weight of two eggs in ground rice, the same 
 in sugar, the same in butter. First work the butter 
 to a cream, then put in the sugar and ground rice, 
 and lastly the two eggs well beaten. Put in buttered 
 cups and bake twenty minutes. 
 
 612. REGENCY PUDDING (Kent, 1809) 
 A quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of suet, a quarter of a pound of currants, a quarter 
 of a pound of apples chopped fine, a little sugar, 
 two eggs. Boil it two hours. 
 
 613. RICE CAKE MOULD (Hertfordshire) 
 I 
 Stew enough rice in milk to fill a quart mould. 
 When middling stiff and cool, add six yolks and four 
 whites whipped stiff. Flavour with essence of 
 lemon. Butter the mould well, strew; it with bread- 
 crumbs, turn the rice into it. Bake about three- 
 quarters of an hour. Serve with hot apricot sauce. 
 
PUDDINGS 207 
 
 II 
 
 Three eggs and their weight of ground rice, also 
 the same weight of sugar ; beat all well together 
 and bake in a mould. 
 
 514. RICE CHEESE PUDDING (1816) 
 
 Steep a quarter of a pound of ground rice in milk 
 over the fire tiU it is quite soft ; put it into an 
 earthen pot, and add a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 keep stirring it till the butter is melted, cover it 
 close and let it stand till the next day ; then add a 
 quarter of a pound of currants, washed and dried 
 thoroughly, three eggs well beaten,two tablespoonfuls 
 of ratafia or brandy, and sugar and nutmeg to your 
 taste ; bake it in patty pans with puff paste at 
 the bottom. N.B. — Be careful not to have more 
 milk than the rice requires ; if it is too thin, the 
 currants will sink to the bottom. 
 
 515. BAKED RICE PUDDING (Ireland) 
 
 Wash a quarter of a pound of rice ; put it on the 
 fire in a quart of water ; when hot, pour the water 
 off. Add two quarts of milk, some laurel leaf or 
 bitter almonds, some lemon peel, and cumamon. 
 Let it boil till the rice is quite soft. While hot, 
 put in a quarter of a pound of butter, sweeten it, 
 and when cold add the beaten yolks of twelve eggs 
 and half the whites, a glass of whisky or brandy 
 and some saffron. Butter the dish and put paste 
 round the edge. To take an hour and a half to 
 bake. [See note at head of this chapter.) 
 
208 PUDDINGS 
 
 616. BOILED RICE PUDDING (Ireland) 
 One pound of rice steeped a few hours in soft 
 water ; then carefully strain ofE the water ; and 
 take three pints of good milk, a stick of cinnamon, 
 some laurel leaves, and boil well. Have ready beaten 
 up ten or twelve eggs ; add currants, raisins, sugar, 
 nutmeg. Have ready your pudding cloth dipped 
 in boiling water, well squeezed, and then flour it 
 and pour in your pudding. An hour's constant 
 boiling will be sufficient. Tie your cloth well, 
 
 Saiice. — Whisky, sugar, and melted butter. 
 To make this pudding dark as rich plum pudding, 
 take a little dark sugar, put it in a saucepan to bum 
 on the fire ; add a glass of whisky ; keep stirring 
 till very brown. Throw it into your pudding while 
 boiling hot. (See note as above.) 
 
 517. SMALL BICE PUDDINGS (Kent, 1809) 
 A quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of four 
 or five eggs, one pint of milk and a little cream, one 
 ounce of almonds, pounded or chopped fine, a 
 quarter of a pound of rice boiled up with a laurel 
 leaf. Bake them in small tins. 
 
 618. PUDDING A LA ROYALE (Hertfordshire) 
 Make some custard, add a little gelatine and 
 
 whipped cream, and some fine brown breadcrumbs. 
 
 Set in a mould and serve with some sauce 
 
 round. 
 
 519. SANDOWN PUDDING (Isle of Wight) 
 Butter a cake-tin and line it with sponge fingers 
 or boudoir biscuits, put in two ounces of glac^ 
 
PUDDINGS 209 
 
 cherries and two ounces of ratafias. Make a pint 
 of custard and add to it three ounces of gelatine ; 
 pour into the mould or tin, leave it to cool, and 
 serve as a cold pudding with whipped cream. 
 
 620. SNOWBALLS (Surrey) 
 
 Take a pint of milk, boil it and sweeten to taste. 
 Mix three tablespoonfuls of ground rice with a little 
 cold milk. Pound a dozen and a half sweet, and half 
 a dozen bitter, almonds in a mortar, add these to the 
 rice, together with a dessertspoonful of orange-flower 
 water, then pour the boiling milk over the rice, stir 
 and return all to the saucepan ; keep stirring until 
 it thickens. Allow it to boil for two or three seconds. 
 Fill wet teacups with the mixture, and when quite 
 cold turn out the snowballs and ornament the top 
 of each with almonds, garnish them with straw- 
 berry jam, and pour cream round them. 
 
 52L SNOWDON PUDDING (Devonshire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of raisins, half a pound of 
 sugar, half a poxmd of suet chopped finely, half a 
 pound of bread crumbs, the rind and juice of a 
 lemon, half a wine-glass of brandy (this is not 
 essential). Mix with two eggs well beaten, pour 
 into a buttered basin lined with the raisins (split), 
 boil two hours, and serve with lemon sauce. 
 
 522. SPONGE PUDDING (Devonshire) 
 
 Half a pound of flour, three ounces of sugar, three 
 ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of ground ginger, 
 one teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, one teacup- 
 14 
 
210 PUDDINGS 
 
 ful of milk. Mix dry ingredients together, then rub 
 in the butter, and add the soda (ready dissolved in 
 warm milk). Beat it to a soft batter, steam it in a 
 buttered basin for two or three hours. Serve with 
 sweet sauce. 
 
 523. SPOONFUL PUDDING (Seventeentl^ Century) 
 
 To one spoonful of flour and one spoonful of 
 cream or milk, add an egg, a little nutmeg, ginger, 
 and salt. Mix all together, with a few currants if 
 you choose, and boil it in a basin half an hour. 
 (A tablespoon is presumably indicated. Ed.) 
 
 624. SUFFOLK DUMPLINGS 
 
 Take one pound of dough, divide it into six equal 
 parts, mould these into dumplings and drop them 
 into fast-boihng water. Boil quickly for ten to 
 fifteen minutes, and serve them the instant they are 
 dished. They should each be slightly torn apart 
 with two forks, to let the steam out, directly they 
 are taken out of the saucepan, or they will be sad 
 (heavy) in the middle. 
 
 525. SUNDAY PUDDING OR FRITTERS 
 (Isle of Wight) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, two ounces of butter, four eggs, one pint of 
 milk. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add 
 the flour and eggs singly. Bake in saucer tins, 
 haK full, for fifteen minutes. Eat them with jam 
 or cream. 
 
PUDDINGS 211 
 
 526. SWEETMEAT PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Melt half a pound of butter in a jam-pot in a pan 
 of hot water, add a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 beat well the yolks of eight eggs without the whites, 
 add to the butter and sugar a quarter of a pound of 
 candied lemon-peel, a quarter of a pound of candied 
 orange peel, and a quarter of a pound of candied citron 
 very finely chopped or shredded. Bake one and a 
 half hours. 
 
 527. TAPIOCA SOUFFLE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Soak a tablespoonful of tapioca in cold water; 
 when soft set it to boil, and when of the consistency 
 of porridge, sweeten to taste. Flavour with vanilla 
 or lemon peel. When it is cold, whisk four eggs, 
 whites and yolks separately, beat up the eggs, 
 adding the whites last. Bake in a souffle mould 
 for twenty minutes. Serve at once. 
 
 628. TREACLE PUDDING (Lancashu'e) 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls of golden syrup or treacle, 
 two tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, six tablespoon- 
 fuls of flour, one and a haK teaspoonfuls of baking 
 powder, one egg. Mix flour, suet, and baking- 
 powder, and a pinch of salt. Stir in treacle, beaten 
 egg, and a little milk. Place in a greased basin, 
 cover with paper, and steam about two hours. 
 
 629. TOWN PUDDING (Kent) 
 
 Six ounces of suet, half a pound of grated bread 
 crumbs, six ounces of moist sugar, half a pound of 
 apples after being pared and cored ; one teaspoonful 
 
212 PUDDINGS 
 
 finely cut lemon rind ; small pinch of salt. Mix 
 ingredients thoroughly, and press them tightly into 
 a mould (well buttered), tie floured cloth over, and 
 boil for four hours. Turn out carefully. No other 
 moisture required. 
 
 530. WELSH PUDDING (Shropshire) 
 
 Half a pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a 
 pound of bread crumbs, half a pot of orange mar- 
 malade, a little moist sugar, three eggs. Beat well 
 together and boil three hours in a mould. 
 
 531. WHITE POT (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 A layer of white bread cut thin at the bottom of 
 the dish, a layer of apples cut thin, a layer of suet, 
 currants, raisins, sugar, and nutmeg ; then the bread, 
 and so on, as above, till the dish is filled up. Beat 
 four eggs, and mix them with a pint of good milk, 
 a little sugar and nutmeg, and pour it over the top. 
 This should be made three or feur hours before it is 
 baked. 
 
 632. DR. WILSON'S PUDDING (Hertfordshire) 
 Make hot fruit juice, cut rounds of bread the size 
 of the mould, soak them in juice, fill the mould, put 
 a weight on the top ; then put it on the ice or in a 
 very cold place, turn out, serve with whipped cream 
 or custard over it. 
 
 533. YEAST PUDDING (Ireland) 
 Mix dough as for rolls, or procure some from 
 the baker ; make it up into dumplings, and boil 
 for about twenty minutes. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 Under this heading are a few recipes which do 
 not fall exactly under the head of puddings ; some 
 of these wiU be found a most welcome change 
 from the ordinary round of things, especially the 
 fruit dishes and the " Treacle-George," which is 
 immensely popular iq those families favoured by 
 its acquaintance. 
 
 For making short crust, good beef-dripping is 
 much superior to lard or butter ; a mixture of 
 beef and mutton dripping, plus bacon-fat or lard, 
 run down and clarified, is the best thing possible 
 for meat-pies. For puff pastry the best lard or butter 
 only should be used : it is cheapest in the end. Flour 
 should be slightly warmed before using, as directed 
 for cakes. But the baking is quite as important as 
 the making : and if an oven door be left ajar, or 
 open too long, or if articles are taken out of the 
 oven, and carelessly set in a draughty place, the 
 best batch of pastry may be ruined. 
 
 PASTRY 
 
 534. OBSERVATIONS ON PIES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Raised pies should have a quick oven, kept well 
 
 closed up, or your pie will fall in at the sides ; it 
 
 213 
 
214 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 should have no water put in till the minute it goes 
 to the oven, or else it makes the crust sad, and it is 
 a great hazard of the pie running. Light paste 
 requires a moderate oven ; but not too slow, or it 
 will make it sad, and a quick oven will catch and 
 burn it, and not give it time to rise. Tarts that 
 are iced, require a slow oven, or the icing will 
 brown, and the paste not be nearly baked. This 
 sort of tarts ought to be made of sugar paste, 
 rolled very thin. 
 
 535. APPLE TART (French Method) 
 Scald eight or ten large apples, and when cold 
 mash them with a spoon : then add to them the 
 yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, and mW 
 the whole well together, adding grated nutmeg and 
 sugar to taste : cover the inside and edges of a 
 tart-dish with puff-paste, filling the dish with the 
 mixture ; bake for an hour, and before serving 
 cover with powdered sugar. 
 
 636. ALMOND CHEESECAKES (Yorkshire) 
 Four ounces of almonds blanched and beaten in a 
 mortar along with four ounces of sugar ; add four 
 ounces of butter, the grated rind of a lemon, and 
 three eggs, all beaten well together in a mortar. 
 Put a thin puff paste at the bottom of tins, and 
 insert the mixture. 
 
 537. APPLE CHEESECAKE MIXTURE 
 (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Four ounces of apple pulp, two ounces of castor 
 sugar, two eggs, two ounces of butter. The grated 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 215 
 
 rind and juice of a lemon. Pare, core, and slice half 
 a pound of apples and stew with little water till 
 soft. Weigh four ounces, put back the apples in 
 pan — add sugar and butter and stir (one way only) 
 till butter is melted. Put mixture in basin, add 
 grated riad and juice of lemon and beaten eggs. 
 Stir with a wooden spoon till well mixed. Line 
 tart tins with short pastry, place a little mixture 
 in each, and bake in quick oven. 
 
 638. LEMON CHEESECAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 Half a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, rind 
 of two lemons, half a dozen grated almonds, juice 
 of three lemons, three eggs, one cracker biscuit. 
 Grate lemons, almonds, and biscuits, then mix 
 together and stir over the fire until it thickens, 
 
 539. LEMON CHEESE (Isle of Wight) 
 Put into a saucepan half a poimd of castor sugar, 
 two beaten eggs, three ounces of butter, and the 
 juice and rind (grated) of a lemon. Bring it to the 
 boil slowly, until it looks thick (like honey). Then 
 put into jars, and cover down. This is used for 
 filling open tarts and cheese cakes. 
 
 640. LEMON CURD (Essex) 
 Take two ounces of fresh butter, three beaten 
 yolks of eggs, the juice and grated rind of two lemons, 
 half a pound of castor sugar. Mix well, and put 
 the mixture into a jar, and stand it in a saucepan 
 of boihng water over a slow fire, till the mixture 
 is like a thick cream. Put it into pots and cover 
 closely. 
 
216 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 541. POTATO CHEESECAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of mealy potatoes, mash 
 them well, then add to them two tablespoonfuls of 
 brandy, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, four eggs and the rind of haK an 
 orange. Mix these ingredients well together, and 
 bake in hollow patty pans with puff paste. 
 
 542. GROUND RICE CHEESECAKE MIXTURE 
 (Glouoesterahire) 
 
 Four ounces of ground rice, four ounces of butter, 
 two eggs, four ounces of sugar (castor), small 
 teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix well together 
 and use as above. 
 
 643. CODLING PIE (Eighteenth Century) 
 Gather small codlings, put them in a small pre- 
 serving pan with cold water, lay vine leaves on them, 
 and cover them with a cloth wrapped roimd the cover 
 of the pan to keep in the steam ; when they grow 
 softish, peel off the skin, and put them in the same 
 water as the vine leaves, hang them up a great 
 height over the fire to green. When you see them a 
 fine green, take them out of the water, and put them 
 in a deep dish, with as much powder or loaf sugar, as 
 will sweeten them. Make the lid of rich puff paste, 
 and bake it ; when it comes from the oven, take off 
 the lid, and cut it in pieces like sippets, and stick 
 them round the inside of the pie, with the points 
 upward. Pour over your codlings, a good custard 
 made thus : Boil a pint of cream, with a stick of 
 cinnamon, and sugar enough to make it a little 
 sweet ; let it stand till cold, then put in the yolks 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 217 
 
 of four eggs well beaten, set it on the fire, and keep 
 stirring it tUl it grows tMck, but do not let it boil, 
 lest it curdle ; then pour it into your pie. Pare a little 
 lemon-peel thin, cut the peel like straws, and lay 
 it over the top of your codlings. 
 
 644. EGG PIES (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 Boil half a dozen eggs, half a dozen apples, one 
 and a haK pounds of beef-suet, a pound of currants, 
 and shred (finely mince) them. Season with mace, 
 nutmeg, and sugar to your taste, a tablespoonful 
 or two of brandy, and sweetmeats, if you please. 
 Make into pies (like mince-pies). 
 
 646. LEMON PIE (Surrey) 
 Take two lemons, grate off the outer peel, chop 
 the rest very fine. Put two tablespoonfuls of corn- 
 starch to a teacupful of hot water, and boil ; when 
 cool, add two teacupfuls of white sugar, and the 
 beaten yolks of four eggs. Then add the chopped 
 peel and the juice. Stir well together, bake till the 
 crust is done. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff 
 froth ; stir well in five tablespoonfuls of sugar ; pour 
 this over the pie while hot, and set it back in the 
 oven to brown. 
 
 546. LEMON TARTLETS (Lancashire) 
 Take the juice and grated rinds of two lemons. 
 Clean the grater with bread, only using sufficient 
 crumbs to take off all the lemon peel. Beat all to- 
 gether with two eggs, half a pound of loaf sugar, and 
 quarter of a pound of butter. This is sufficient to 
 make twelve tarts. 
 
218 PASTE Y AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 647. MINCEMEAT PIE WITHOUT MEAT 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Chop fine three pounds of suet, and three pounds 
 of pared and cored apples. Wash and dry three 
 pounds of currants, stone and chop one pound of 
 raisins, beat and sift one pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar, cut small twelve ounces of candied orange 
 peel and six ounces of citron ; mix all well to- 
 gether, with a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg, 
 half an ounce of cinnamon, six or eight cloves, and 
 half a pint of French brandy; put it into closed 
 jar, and keep it for use. 
 
 648. MINCEMEAT (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Five pounds of suet, two pounds of raisins, two 
 pounds of sultanas, two pounds of currants, three 
 pounds of apples, three pounds of Demerara, two 
 povmds of pears, two pounds of candied peel, one 
 and a half poimds of almonds, half an ounce of 
 mixed spice, four pounds of lemons, four poimds of 
 oranges, two pints of brandy, one pint of sherry, 
 four wineglassfuls of maraschino or noyeau. 
 
 549. NEW ENGLAND MOLASSES PIE (American) 
 
 Line a deep pie-dish with an undercrust, mix half 
 a pint of treacle with a tablespoonful of flour, add 
 the juice of a lemon, and the rind and juicy pulp 
 chopped fine, (do not use any of the white pith). 
 Moisten the edges, and cover with a crust ; bake, 
 and eat while hot. 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 219 
 
 650. ORANGE PIE (Surrey) 
 
 Take the juioe and grated rind of one orange, one 
 small cup of sugar, yolks of three eggs, one table- 
 spoonful of corn-starch, made smooth with milk ; a 
 piece of butter as large as a chestnut, and one cupful 
 of milk. Beat the whites of the three eggs with four 
 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and place on the top after 
 the pie is baked, leaving it in the oven until browned. 
 
 651. SWISS RHUBARB TART (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Make a tart in the usual way, sweeten the rhubarb 
 and flavour it with some slices of lemon rind. 
 When cold, cut off the top crust, and leave the edge 
 quite neat. Beat up the juice with a fork. Take 
 a gill of cream, or more if the tart be large, slightly 
 sweeten it, and whip till stiff. Pile this roughly 
 over the sweet ; garnish with strips of angelica and 
 preserved cherries, and serve. 
 
 562. TART OF ROSE-HIPS (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take some hips, cut them and take out the seeds 
 very clean. Wash them, season with sugar, cinna- 
 mon, and ginger. Cover the tart and bake it, ice 
 it, sprinkle sugar on, and serve it. (Water has been 
 omitted. I should advise giving the hips a pre- 
 liminary cooking and pulping through a sieve. 
 Hose-hips need very careful removal of the irritating 
 hair in which the seeds are enveloped ; but this 
 should come out as a whole if they are ripe. Ed.) 
 
220 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 553. SULTANA PUETS (Surrey) 
 
 Excellent and wholesome puffs can be made, to 
 use up any short crust left over from a pie, by rolling 
 out the paste a quarter of an inch thick, cutting it 
 in rounds, and placing about one heaped table- 
 spoonful of picked sultanas in the centre of each. 
 Moisten the edges and turn over in three flaps, to 
 make a three-cornered puff. Bake in moderate oven. 
 
 654. SUSSEX PANCAKES (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take some very good pie paste made with hot 
 lard and roll it thin ; fry it in butter, and serve it 
 with beaten spice and sugar as hot as you can. 
 
 555. TREACLE-GEORGE (Devonshire) 
 
 Take a shallow cake-tin, or a deep plate, or a 
 pie-dish ; butter it. Place at the bottom a layer of 
 pastry (short-crust) about a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Over this put a layer of treacle ; over this a layer of 
 fine bread crumbs, sufficient to hide the treacle ; over 
 this squeeze a little lemon-juice ; then put a layer 
 of pastry, and go on in the same rotation till the 
 tin is filled up to the height of three or four inches 
 or so. Bake in a fairly quick oven, and remove from 
 tin, and serve either hot or cold. This is a whole- 
 some and attractive dish for children. 
 
 656. TO MAKE CRISP PASTE FOR TARTS 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take one pound of fine flour, mixed with one 
 ounce of sifted sugar, make it into a stiff paste, 
 with a gill of boiling cream and three ounces of 
 
PASTEY AND SWEET DISHES 221 
 
 butter ; work it well, and roll it very thin. When 
 you have made your tarts, beat the white of 
 an egg a little, rub it over them with a feather, sift 
 a little sugar over them, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 For icing : Beat the white of an egg to a strong 
 froth, put in by decrees four ounces of sifted sugar, 
 with as much powdered gum as will lie on sixpence, 
 beat it half an hour, then lay it over your tarts the 
 thickness of a straw. 
 
 557. VEGETABLE-MARROW TART (Sussex) 
 
 Take a small marrow, stew it quite tender, mash 
 it up with butter and sugar to taste, add a little 
 flavouring of lemon, spice, and ginger, and beat an 
 egg-yolk well in. Make tartlets of puff paste in 
 patty pans, or line a dish with puff-paste, and when 
 the pastry is baked and has gone cool, fill it with 
 above mixture, and put it back for a minute in the 
 oven. The whipped white of egg can be laid on 
 top, if liked. 
 
 FRUIT DISHES 
 
 558. SCRAPED APPLES (Surrey) 
 
 Take one pound of good eating apples, peel them, 
 and scrape or shred them finely with a sharp knife 
 into a glass dish. Have ready, not too hot, a nice 
 two-egg custard, flavoured with sugar and vanilla, 
 and pour this at once over the apples, as they dis- 
 colour while exposed to the air. Let them be 
 welt covered with the custard. This is a most 
 delicious and wholesome dish, and will suit invaUds. 
 
222 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 559. SIMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING JAMAICA 
 BANANAS 
 
 By a Black Lady 
 
 1. As a Vegetable, wholesome, and filling. Peel 
 green bananas, boil them in salt and water until soft 
 like potatoes. Are good mashed with butter and 
 peppernut. 
 
 2. Fried Bananas. These are what children 
 like. Ripe bananas, sliced lengthways, and fried 
 in lard. Eaten either with meat, or served with 
 sugar sprinkled on them. A squeeze of lemon is an 
 improvement. 
 
 3. Baked Bananas. Fit for the gods ! Peel 
 ripe bananas and place in a pie-dish. Sprinkle a 
 little lemon juice over them (also sugar), half cover 
 with water, bake for twenty minutes. When cool, 
 serve with custard, cream, or milk. 
 
 4. Banana Fritters. If well made are tip-top. 
 Dip them whole or sliced in batter. Ery until 
 crisp and light brown. 
 
 560. DATE CAKE (Somerset) 
 
 One pound of cheap dates, 3d. per pound, two 
 ounces (sweet) almonds, blanched. Grease a small 
 pudding basin with cooldng butter (basin should be 
 a little larger than a breakfastcup). Make a cross 
 in it with spUt blanched almonds, thus, +. Take 
 out the stones of the dates, and in place of each 
 insert half a blanched almond. Then pack the 
 dates in the basin (one at a time) as closely as 
 possible — pressing them in tightly. When full, put 
 a heavy weight on the dates — the size of the top of 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 223 
 
 the basin — and let it stand for twenty-four hours ; 
 then turn out of the basin (by sUpping a thin 
 knife round the sides of the basin) on to a plate 
 (a green plate looks best), and when wanted, cut 
 it in thin slices (as you would a round cake). 
 To be eaten for breakfast, tea, or supper, with a 
 knife and fork and bj'ead and butter — a perfect meal. 
 
 561. DATES IN CUSTARD (Hampshire) 
 
 Stone enough dates to cover the bottom of a glass 
 dish, and put half a blanched almond in each ; pour 
 over them one pint of custard and serve cold. 
 
 662. DATE MOULD (Middlesex) 
 Remove the stones from one pound of dates; 
 chop up the fruit and put it into a lined pan, with 
 the grated rind and the juice of a good-sized lemon. 
 Just cover it with water, and set it to simmer. If 
 the water simmers away, you must put a little more. 
 Stir gently now and then, as it may stick and bum. 
 When it becomes a thick paste, turn it into a wet 
 mould, and when quite cold, turn it out and serve 
 with custard or whipped cream. 
 
 Prunes may be treated in the same way, using 
 half a pint of water to one pound of prunes, but 
 you will want seven or eight lumps of sugar to one 
 pound of prunes, and half an ounce of gelatine, 
 previously melted in half a pint of water and added 
 to the rest. 
 
 563. GREEN FIGS (Hertfordshire) 
 Stew in a pint of compote syrup for three minutes 
 a dozen small green figs, and serve with whipped 
 cream. 
 
224 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 664. FIG JELLY (Surrey) 
 
 Take one pound of small cooking figs, remove the 
 stems, and pour them over some very hot water, but 
 it should not be boiling. Leave them for a minute 
 or two, then drain off the water. Then cut each 
 fig in pieces, and to each pound of figs put one 
 pound of sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, and the 
 juice of one lemon. Put them into a pan and let 
 them cook very slowly, until the syrup thickens and 
 the figs become clear : stir carefully, and if it gets 
 too thick add a little water. When cold, pour off 
 into jars and cover tightly. 
 
 566. STEWED FIGS (Surrey) 
 
 Pulled figs are the best for this. They should be 
 cooked very slowly, in as little water as possible, 
 with a very little sugar, to taste, and a thin lemon- 
 rind, in the proportion of one lemon to the pound. 
 They should not swell out so as to assume a bloated 
 appearance, which shows that they have boiled 
 instead of stewing. Test with a silver fork when 
 they are soft enough, and add about two teaspoon- 
 fuls of lemon-juice before taking them out of the 
 stewpan. 
 
 666. PEAR COMPOTE (Sussex) 
 
 Pare and core your pears, slice them into quarters, 
 put them in a lined pan to a little sugar, and just 
 cover them with claret. Let them cook very gently 
 till they are quite tender. No cochineal will be 
 required. The amount of sugar depends upon the 
 kind of pears. 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 225 
 
 667. TO STEW PEARS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Pare the largest stewing pears, and stick a clove in 
 tlie blossom end ; then put them in a weU-lined 
 saucepan, fill it with hard water, and set it over a 
 slow fire for three or four hours till the pears are 
 soft, and the water reduced to a small quantity. 
 Then put in as much loaf sugar as will make a thick 
 syrup, and give the pears a boil ia it. Cut some 
 lemon peel in straws and hang them about your 
 pears, and serve them up with the syrup in a deep 
 dish. 
 
 668. TO STEW PIPPINS WHOLE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Pare and core your pippins, and throw them into 
 cold water as you pare them. Take the weight of 
 the fruit in fine sugar, and dissolve it in a quart of 
 water ; then boil it up, skim it clear, and put in the 
 fruit. Let them steam gently till they are tender 
 and look clear. Then take them out, and squeeze 
 into the syrup the juice of a large lemon. Let it 
 boil, skim it, and run it through a jeUy-bag upon 
 the fruit. You may stick the pippins with strips of 
 candied fruits if you please. 
 
 569. RASPBERRY SPONGE (Essex) 
 Take the whites of four eggs and beat them to a 
 firm froth. Take about one pound of good fresh 
 ripe raspberries, stalk them, mash them thoroughly, 
 and sweeten them to taste with sifted sugar. Then 
 gradually beat them into the whisked whites, a 
 little at a time, so that the sponge keeps stiff. Pile 
 it up in a glass dish. 
 15 
 
226 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 570. SAGO FRUIT (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Put five tablepoonsfuls of sago into cold water 
 and let it stand all night, then strain it and mix it 
 with one quart of currants and raspberries. Stew 
 it tiU quite a jelly, and stir into it some white sugar 
 to sweeten it, then put it into a mould. 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 571. FRENCH BANCES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take half a pint of water, a bit of lemon peel, a 
 bit of butter the bigness of a walnut, a little orange- 
 flower water ; let these boil three or four minutes ; 
 then take out the lemon peel, and add to it a pint of 
 flour; keep the water boiling and stirring all the 
 while till it is stiff, then take it off the fire, and put 
 in six eggs, leaving out the whites of three ; beat 
 these well for about half an hour, tUl they come to 
 a stiff paste. Drop small pieces of this into a pan 
 of boiling lard, with a teaspoon ; if they are of a 
 right lightness they will be very nice ; keep shaking 
 the pan all the time till they are a light brown. A 
 large dish will take six or seven minutes to cook ; 
 when done enough, put them into a dish that will 
 drain them, set them by the fire, and strew fine 
 sugar over them. 
 
 572. BENITA SHAPE (Devonshire) 
 
 Two eggs, juice of two lemons, half a pound of 
 castor sugar, grated rind of one lemon, five sheets 
 of gelatine. Melt the gelatine in a tumbler of warm 
 water ; slightly whip the yolks of the eggs and 
 
PASTEY AKD SWEET DISHES 227 
 
 castor sugar gradually together, add the lemon rind 
 and juice and gelatine whilst warm. When almost 
 cold, stir in lightly the whites of eggs well whipped. 
 Pour into a wet mould and put into a cool place to 
 set. This can be made with oranges instead of 
 lemons, and the rind can be left out if not liked. 
 
 573. BROWN BREAD-CRUMB TRIFLE (Surrey) 
 
 Put through a fine sieve any stale brown bread, 
 till you have two breakfastcupfuls of fine crumbs, 
 which pile on a dish. Put over about a breakfast- 
 cupful of some moist juicy jam, such as strawberry, 
 which will soak into the crumbs. When it has fairly 
 soaked in, mask the whole iu whipped cream. This 
 is exceedingly good if the crumbs are weU saturated. 
 
 674. COLDHARBOUR BALLS (Surrey) 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of butter in a quart of warm 
 milk, and use as much fine flour as wiU make a stiff 
 paste ; add, ia making the paste, about half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and two eggs beaten up with a table- 
 spoonful of yeast ; cover with a cloth and keep it 
 before the fire for half an hour, then roll into balls or 
 in pieces of the size and length of the little finger, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 576. APPLE FRITTERS (Cheshire) 
 
 Take some large apples, peel, and slice them 
 through in rounds a quarter to half an inch 
 thick. Lay some sUces for two hours in a basin 
 with brandy and powdered white sugar. Then 
 make a stiff batter, and stir into it just before using 
 
228 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drain 
 the apples, cover well with the batter, and fry in 
 hot lard or butter. Drain on blotting paper before 
 the fire. Pile high on a dish, and sprinkle with 
 sifted sugar. 
 
 576. COMMON FRITTERS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take haK a pint of ale and two eggs, beat in as 
 much flour as will make it rather thicker than a 
 common pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to your 
 taste, let it stand three or four minutes to rise, then 
 drop it in tablespoonfuls into a pan of boiling lard ; 
 fry them a light brown, drain them on a sieve ; serve 
 them up with sugar grated over them, and wine 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 577. PLAIN FRITTERS WITH RICE 
 (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, pour over it a 
 pint of boiling cream, or good milk, let it stand four 
 or five hours, then beat it exceedingly fine. Put to 
 it the yolks of five eggs, four oimces of sugar, and 
 a nutmeg grated, beat them well together, and fry 
 them in hog's lard ; drain them on a sieve, and 
 serve them up with wine sauce under them. N.B. 
 You may put currants in if you please. 
 
 578. WATER FRITTERS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take a quart of water, five or six tablespoonfuls 
 of flour (the batter must be very thick) and a httle 
 salt, mix all these together and beat the yolks and 
 whites of eight eggs with a little brandy, then strain 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 229 
 
 them, through a hair sieve, and put them to the 
 other things ; the longer they stand before you fry 
 them the better. Just before you fry them, melt 
 about haK a pound of butter very thick, and beat it 
 well in ; you must not turn them, and take care 
 not to bum them. The best thing to fry them in is 
 fine lard. 
 
 579. FRENCH PANCAKES (Cumberland) 
 
 Two eggs, a gill of milk, the weight of the two 
 eggs in butter, flour and castor sugar, jam. Beat 
 the butter to a cream, then beat in the sugar and 
 flour. Beat up the eggs with the mUk, add them 
 to the other ingredients ; beat all very well. Butter 
 some saucers, put in the mixture, and bake in a 
 quick oven for twenty minutes. Warm some jam, 
 put a little on each pancake, double them over, 
 sprinkle with sugar and serve. 
 
 580. FRENCH PANCAKES (Ireland) 
 
 Beat two ounces of butter to a cream, add two 
 beaten eggs, stir in two ounces of flour and two 
 ounces of sifted sugar. When well mixed, add half 
 a pint of new milk. Beat mixture. Put on two 
 buttered plates. Bake twenty minutes and serve 
 with jam. Very light and nice when well made 
 with fresh eggs. 
 
 581. MADRAS PANCAKES 
 
 To six eggs, well beaten, add two tablespoonfuls of 
 boiled rice, sugar to taste, a little pounded cinnamon, 
 and a little orange-flower water ; mix all well to- 
 
230 PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 
 
 gether, and fry it in butter to a good colour. When 
 served, divide it into quarters, and strew with 
 powdered sugar. 
 
 582. PINK PANCAKES (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Boil a large beetroot tender, and beat it fine in 
 a marble mortar, then add the yolks of four eggs, 
 two spoonfuls of flour, and three spoonfuls of good 
 cream ; sweeten it to your taste, grate in half a nut- 
 meg, and put in a glass of brandy ; beat all to- 
 gether half an hour. Fry the pancakes in butter, 
 and garnish them with green sweetmeats, preserved 
 apricots, or green sprigs of myrtle. It is a pretty 
 corner dish for either dinner or supper. 
 
 683. RUSSIAN PANCAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Make some very small thin pancakes, fill them 
 with thick jam, or (if desired as a savoury) with 
 queneUe forcemeat, fish, or fowl ; roll up the pan- 
 cakes, trim them evenly, dip in egg and bread 
 crumbs, and fry. Serve quickly. 
 
 684. A DELICIOUS COLD SWEET (Kent) 
 
 Take twelve almond cakes (soak six in sherry and 
 the other six in the custard when it is hot). Make a 
 custard of four eggs, and one and a half pints of 
 milk, sugar, and half an ounce of gelatine. Put in 
 the mould a few dried cherries. Pour a little 
 custard into the mould, then the cakes, and then the 
 remainder of the custard. 
 
PASTRY AND SWEET DISHES 231 
 
 685. AN EXCELLENT SWEET (Staffordshire) 
 
 Take twelve yolks of eggs, a gill of sherry ; place 
 them over a slow fire with sugar to your taste. 
 Whisk the mixture until it becomes thick. Pour 
 it into a glass dish, and when cold ornament with 
 ratafia cakes, or anything else you may fancy. Half 
 the quantity makes a nice small dish. 
 
 586. TAPIOCA CREAM (Essex) 
 
 Three ounces of tapioca, one pint of milk, half a 
 pint of cream, sugar, lemon juice or sherry, essence 
 of almond, four penny sponge cakes, one ounce of 
 sweet almonds. Wash the tapioca and put it to 
 soak in the milk the evening before it is required. 
 Cook slowly till tender. Add sugar to taste, and 
 let cool. Put the sponge cakes iato a glass dish 
 and pour over enough lemon juice or sherry to soak 
 them. Pile the tapioca roughly over, whip the 
 cream, heap it on top, and decorate with the almonds 
 blanched and cut into spikes. 
 
 587. TAPIOCA SNOW (Lancashire) 
 
 Three tablespoonfuls of tapioca, one pint of new 
 milk, essence of vanilla, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
 two eggs. Boil tapioca in milk till quite soft, sweeten 
 with sugar, stir in the yolks of both eggs, and cook 
 gently over slow fire for about six minutes. When 
 cool, flavour with fifteen drops of essence of vanilla, 
 and turn into a glass dish. When quite cold, place 
 the whites of the eggs (beaten to a stiff froth with a 
 little sugar and five drops of vanilla) on the top. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, 
 SYLLABUBS, ETC. 
 
 Note. — In the making of creams and custards, 
 and of all those fluffy, frothy, delightful festival 
 dishes which are much " too bright and good for 
 human nature's daily food," our grandmothers 
 undoubtedly excelled. 
 
 The very recipes make one's mouth water, and 
 although we cannot usually command the warm 
 and foamy milk fresh from the cow, or the un- 
 limited quarts of rich cream, in which they seem 
 to have rejoiced — yet we can at any rate adapt to 
 our narrower conditions some of the admirable 
 concoctions here collected and presented. She is 
 no good cook who cannot make the best of what she 
 already has. The junkets and custards are in 
 particular worthy of attention ; for all the multiplicity 
 of custard powders, egg powders, pudding powders, 
 of to-day, shall never equal the hand-made, home- 
 made dehcacy. The " Everlasting Syllabub " on 
 page 241 is a singularly admirable dish, 
 
 CREAMS 
 
 688. BURNT CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Beat and mix well together the yolks of six eggs, 
 two tablespoonfuls of flour, the peel of a lemon 
 
 232 
 
CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 233 
 
 grated, and four or five bitter almonds ; sweeten 
 with lump sugar, and stir over the fire till it comes 
 to a good thickness, and pour it iato the dish in 
 which it is to be served ; boil some pounded loaf 
 sugar in water until it turns brown, and then pour 
 it over the cream in fantastic figures. 
 
 689. COFFEE CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Having dissolved one ounce of isinglass, boil it 
 with two quarts of cream, and mix it with one and 
 a half pints of very strong coffee ; sweeten well, 
 whisk it for ten minutes, put it into custard cups, 
 and let them stand in a pan of boiling water till 
 they become firm. 
 
 590. COFFEE CREAM (Berkshire) 
 
 One pint of milk and cream mixed, half a cup of 
 strong coffee added, sweeten to taste. Dissolve one 
 ounce of gelatine (previously soaked). Beat all 
 together and turn into a wet mould. 
 
 591. CREAM FOR FRUIT PIES (Middlesex) 
 
 This is made by boiling new milk with grated nut- 
 meg or cinnamon, two or three peach leaves, or a 
 few bitter almonds, and a sufficient quantity of sugar 
 to sweeten it ; then straining the cream and, when 
 cold, beating up with it the yolks of eggs in the 
 proportion of four to a quart, and warming the 
 whole over the fire until it thickens. This is eaten 
 cold with fruit tarts, or with any fresh fruits at 
 dessert. If one-quarter of the quantity be rich 
 cream, instead of the whole being milk, it will be 
 improved. 
 
234 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 592. TO MAKE DEVONSHIRE CREAM (Sussex) 
 
 Place new milk in a clean jug or can, and stand 
 it in a saucepan of warm water. Bring the water 
 to the boil, and let it boil for half an hour. Then 
 pour the milk into a shallow basin or dish, and let 
 it stand until quite cold. The cream will be found 
 quite thick and clotted, like Devonshire cream ; and 
 if it is required still thicker, it can be whipped in 
 the same manner as unscalded cream. 
 
 693. FROTHED CREAM (Kent) 
 
 Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the rind of a lemon ; 
 put it iato a pint of cream, and sweeten it to your 
 taste, then put in a glass of Madeira wine, or French 
 brandy. Mill it to a froth in a chocolate mill ; 
 take it ofl as it rises, and lay it on your dish. 
 
 694. ITALIAN CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Having sweetened a pint of cream, boil it with a 
 lemon, cut very thin, and a small stick of cinnamon ; 
 strain and mix with it a little dissolved isinglass : 
 while hot, add to it the yolks of eight eggs well 
 beaten, and stir it till quite cold. 
 
 595. KING WILLIAM'S CREAM (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Beat the whites of three eggs very well. Squeeze 
 out the juice of two large, or three small lemons : 
 take two ounces more than the weight of the juices 
 in sifted sugar, and mix it with two or three drops 
 of orange-flower water, and five or six spoonfuls 
 of cold water. Melt this in a pan, and when all 
 the sugar is melted, put in the whites of eggs, and 
 
CREAMS, CUSTAEDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 235 
 
 the juice. Set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring 
 till you find it thicken : then strain it through a 
 coarse cloth quick into a dish. 
 
 696. LEMON CREAM (Ireland) 
 
 Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yolk 
 of two eggs well beaten, four ounces of white sugar, 
 and the rind of a lemon. Boil it up ; stir it till 
 almost cold. Put the juice of a lemon into a bowl, 
 and pour the cream upon it, stirring it till cold. 
 
 597. MiyDEIRA CREAMS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Cut some bananas and rub them through a coarse 
 sieve ; add as much cream as you have fruit, and 
 a pinch of salt. To every pint of this mixture add 
 two ounces of sugar, and a dessertspoonful of brandy 
 or liquor. Beat this very stiff and light, and, just 
 before serving, place in custard glasses. 
 
 598. LEMON CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Required : two lemons, two eggs, two ounces of 
 cornflour, six ounces of castor sugar, one pint of 
 water. Pare the lemons thinly, and boil the rind 
 well in the water for five minutes, mix the corn- 
 flour with the strained juice of lemons, add the 
 liquid from the rinds, return to the saucepan and 
 boil for three minutes, stirring all the time. Add 
 the sugar and cook slightly, mix in the yolks of 
 eggs well-beaten, and stir over a gentle heat, until 
 they thicken. Whip the whites into a stiff froth, 
 and stir lightly into the mixture. Pour into a wet 
 mould ; when cold, turn out. 
 
236 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 699. RATAFIA CREAM (Hampshire) 
 
 Take one lemon, half a pint of fresh cream, two 
 penny sponge cakes, one wineglassful of sherry, fifteen 
 lumps of sugar, a few ratafias. Peel the lemon very 
 thinly, and allow the rind to soak some hours in the 
 juice and wine, to which also add the sugar. Cut 
 your sponge cakes in slices, and place them in a 
 glass dish. Now whip the cream as stiff as possible, 
 and put it on the cake. Decorate with the ratafias, 
 and the dish is ready. This cream is very nice used 
 without the sponge cakes, and served in custard 
 glasses ; it is then called Everlasting Syllabub. 
 
 600. SNOW CREAM (Kent) 
 
 Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs 
 beaten, four dessertspoonfuls of white wine, sugar 
 to your taste, add a piece of lemon peel, and whip 
 to a froth. Remove the peel, and serve in a dish, 
 
 601. SPANISH CREAM (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take three dessertspoonfuls of rice flour sifted 
 very fine, the yolk of three eggs, three dessfert- 
 spoonfuls of water and two of orange-flower water. 
 Put to them one pint of cream. Set the mixture 
 over a good fire and stir till it be of a proper 
 thickness, then pour it into cups. 
 
 602. SPANISH CREAM (Surrey) 
 
 Boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint of water till 
 quite dissolved, and mix with it two quarts of good 
 milk ; stir it over the fire till it begins to boU, then 
 
CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 237 
 
 let it cool a little, and add gradually the yolks of 
 twelve eggs well beaten, a large glass of white wine, 
 and a little ratafia ; pour it into a dish, sweeten to 
 taste, and when cold put it into shapes. 
 
 603. STONE CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 This is made by boiling a quarter of an ounce of 
 isinglass in a little water, and boihng it with a pint 
 of sweetened cream, stirring it well ; pour this into a 
 dish in which have been placed preserved fruit, such 
 as apricots, cherries, etc., with some lemon juice (say 
 two or three tablespoonfuls) and some grated lemon 
 peel. 
 
 604. STRAWBERRY CREAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Boil some good cream with a sufficient quantity of 
 sugar to sweeten it, and reduce it to one half its bulk : 
 then add a little rennet, and the juice of strawberries, 
 sufficient to give a good flavour ; and bake in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 605. SWISS CREAM (Surrey) 
 
 Boil the grated peel of a good-sized lemon, and 
 rather more than half a pound of white loaf sugar 
 in a pint of cream, thickening with a spoonful of flour 
 previously mixed up with a tablespoonful of lemon 
 juice ; this is to be added very gradually as the 
 cream warms, and the whole is to be carefully 
 stirred ; when it is taken from the flre, stir tiU 
 nearly cold, and serve in a glass dish garnished with 
 preserved fruits, or candied orange and lemon peel. 
 There is another dish called Swiss Cream which is 
 
238 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 eaten hot ; it is made by whisking up in a basin or 
 deep dish, previously made very hot, the yolks of 
 eight eggs with half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 the grated rind of a lemon, and half a pint of white 
 French wine. 
 
 CUSTARDS 
 
 606. CUSTARD (Kent) 
 
 To one quart of good milk add the yolks of ten 
 eggs. First boil the milk with some cinnamon and 
 sugar ; when nearly cold add it to the eggs, and 
 keep constantly stirring. Put it into a large jug, 
 and put the jug into a pot of boiling water. Do 
 not allow the custard to boil ; and before taking it 
 out of the jug, add some bitter and some sweet 
 almonds ; then put into glasses. 
 
 607. BAKED CUSTARD (Berkshire) 
 
 To one quart of new mUk allow four or five eggs, 
 a quarter of a pound loaf sugar, one lemon peel 
 grated, eight to ten bitter ahnonds pounded, or a 
 few drops of essence of bitter almonds, and a table- 
 spoonful of brandy. Bake in a slow oven, but don't 
 allow it to boil, or the custard will " break " and 
 curdle. 
 
 608. CHEAP CUSTARD (Yorkshire) 
 
 Boil one pint of milk, sweeten it with any spice 
 you like. Rub smooth two tablepoonfuls of ground 
 rice in a little cold milk, then put into it two yolks 
 of eggs well beaten. Afterwards add the boiled 
 
CEEAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 239 
 
 milk, and stir them well together. Then stir it 
 over a slow fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. 
 
 609. CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS (Surrey) 
 
 Take one and a half ounces of best chocolate, 
 dissolve it gently by the side of the fire in rather 
 over one wineglassful of water, then let it boil tUl 
 quite smooth. Add one pint of new milk, (flavoured 
 with lemon peel or vanilla) and two ounces of fine 
 sugar, and let all come to the boil. Then stir it 
 into five well-beaten and strained eggs. Put the 
 custard into a jar and set this in a pan of boihng 
 water ; stir continually Tmtil it thickens, and then 
 take it off. When nearly cold, pour it into glasses. 
 This is much richer when made with yolks only; 
 but in that case you must use the following propor- 
 tions : two ounces of chocolate, one pint of milk, 
 half a pint of cream, two to three ounces of sugar, 
 and eight yolks. 
 
 610. COUNTESS CUSTARD (Sussex) 
 
 Cut five sponge-cakes in half. Place on a dish 
 with alternate layers of fruit, the last layer being 
 fruit. Make a nice thick custard and flavour with 
 orange-flower water, sweeten to taste, and when 
 nearly cold, pour it over the fruit. 
 
 611. WASSAIL CUSTARD (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Line a dish with slices of stale sponge cakes, 
 ratafia biscuits, and macaroons. Mix the juice of 
 a lemon with a little raisin wine and pour it over 
 the cakes. When these have quite absorbed the 
 
240 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 liquor, pour a pint of good custard over, and decorate 
 the top with angelica, chopped cherries, and a little 
 chopped pistachio nut. 
 
 JUNKETS 
 612. JUNKET (Somerset) 
 
 Take one quart of new milk. Warm some of it 
 with five knobs of loaf sugar, then pour the hot and 
 cold milk together into a deep bowl. Add one good 
 tablespoonful of brandy and one of rennet. Stir 
 it well round together. Let it stand in a warm place 
 to set, say on a dish on a cool part of the stove. 
 Then remove it, and cover the top with Devonshire 
 clotted cream. Throw over it a tablespoonful of 
 brandy, then grate a Httle nutmeg on it and scatter 
 sifted sugar. Walnuts are a welcome addition. Send 
 to table with plain biscuits or bread. 
 
 613. JUNKET (Surrey) 
 
 One quart of milk, lukewarm (not scalded or even 
 hot) ; two tablespoonfuls of soft white sugar ; two 
 tablespoonfuls of rum ; one dessertspoonful of 
 essence of rennet. Put the milk to stand on the 
 stove for five or ten minutes to get shghtly warm, 
 then stir in the sugar and rum and mix them well, 
 then add the rennet; stir it well, and then stir again 
 in a few minutes. Leave the junket in a corner of 
 the stove, not too hot, until it is solid, then grate a 
 Uttle nutmeg over it and put it to cool. 
 
 (N.B. Sherry may be advantageously substituted 
 for the rum.) 
 
CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 241 
 
 614. COFFEE JUNKET (Surrey) 
 
 To one pint of new milk add half a teacupful of 
 strong coffee, and one dessertspoonful of castor sugar. 
 Make this as you would ordinary junket, using one 
 teaspoonful of essence of rennet or one rennet tablet. 
 Pour into the bowl it wUl be served in, and let it 
 stand in a moderately cool place tiU set. Whip 
 two-pennyworth of cream, add a httle sugar, and 
 arrange little dobs of cream on the top of the junket, 
 just before it is sent to table. 
 
 SYLLABUBS 
 
 615. SYLLABUB (Kent, 1809) 
 
 The whites of four eggs beaten to a froth ; add half 
 a pound of fine sugar, a little at a time, beating till 
 the sugar is melted. Put in the juice of a good 
 lemon and half a pint of sweet white wine. Keep 
 beating it with a whisk that, it may be well mixed. 
 Put to it a pint of very sweet thick cream, beat it 
 well together. Then fill your glasses. They should 
 stand six or seven hours. 
 
 616. SYLLABUB (Surrey) 
 
 Half a pint of scalded cream, half a pint of raw 
 cream, one dessertspoonful of white sifted sugar, 
 two wineglassfuls of sherry, two tablepoonfuls of 
 brandy, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of one and 
 a half lemons. Whip it to a froth and fill the glasses. 
 
 617. EVERLASTING SYLLABUB (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Steep the peel and juice of one lemon overnight in 
 a wineglassful of white wine. Next morning, pour 
 16 
 
242 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 this into a deep pan, and stir in gradually half a pint 
 of thick cream, with sugar to taste : whip for a 
 quarter of an hour, and put into glasses. This is 
 better made the day before using, and wiU keep for 
 several days. 
 
 618. SYLLABUB WITH CAKES (Middlesex) 
 
 Steep sponge biscuits, or any other cakes, in equal 
 quantities of port, claret, and brandy ; mash them 
 up with a spoon, and add grated nutmeg, and lemon 
 peel, lemon juice, sweet almonds, blanched and 
 pounded to paste, and sufficient sugar to make the 
 whole sweet ; the quantity of the above will depend 
 on the size of the syllabub required. Put all these 
 ingredients into a bowl, and let the milk of a cow. 
 be milked upon them, adding a little good cream 
 and sifted loaf sugar. A very good syllabub may 
 be made by mixing half a pint of sherry, half a pint 
 of Burgundy, a wineglass of any ratafia, half a pound 
 of pounded white sugar, some grated nutmeg, the 
 grated peel of a lemon, and the juice of a lemon ; 
 when these have been well stirred together, and the 
 sugar is dissolved, add one quart of rich cream, 
 and whisk it up until it froths well ; put some maca- 
 roons, or sponge biscuits, into a dish, and pile the 
 froth upon them ; or the syUabub may be served in 
 glasses. If the whites of six eggs be whipped up 
 with the syllabub, it may be served up difierently, 
 but the whipping must be continued for a long time ; 
 as the froth rises, put it on a sieve to dry, and having 
 half filled wineglasses with wine, fill them up with 
 the froth. The common syllabub is generally served 
 without cream or whipping ; wine, nutmeg, sugar, 
 
CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 243 
 
 grated lemon peel, with or without a httle brandy 
 or Uqueur, are mixed in a basin, and the milk of the 
 cow is milked upon them. The quantity of milk is 
 generally in the proportion of three pints to one 
 pint of wine ; but this may be reduced, or iacreased, 
 according to taste. 
 
 619. WHIPPED SYLLABUB (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take two porringers of cream and one of white 
 wine, grate in the rind of a lemon. Take the whites 
 of three eggs, sweeten to your taste, then whip it 
 with a whisk. Take off the froth as it rises, and put 
 it into your syllabub glasses. 
 
 620. LEMON POSSET (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take one pint of good thick cream, grate into it 
 the outer rind of two lemons, and squeeze the juice 
 into half a gill of white wine, and sweeten it to your 
 taste. Take the whites of two eggs and beat them 
 to a froth, then beat all together in a bowl, then put 
 it into the glasses for use. 
 
 TRIFLES 
 621. TRIFLE (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Take three penny sponge cakes, three tablespoon- 
 fuls of raspberry or apricot jam, two eggs with whites 
 and yolks separated, a quarter of a pint of mUk, 
 one tablespoonful of castor sugar, three drops ratafia 
 essence. Cut the sponge cakes into slices and 
 spread with the jam ; lay them in a glass dish. 
 Make a custard of the yolk, milk, and essence, and 
 half the sugar. Pour it over the sponge cakes and 
 
244 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 
 
 allow them to soak for a quarter of an hour. Mix 
 the rest of the sugar with the whites, which must 
 be whipped to a stiff froth and then piled lightly on 
 the top. Cost Id. 
 
 622. TRIFLE (Kent) 
 
 Cover the bottom of a dish with Naples biscuits, 
 macaroons, and ratafia cakes. Wet them with 
 sweet wine ; put over them a thick custard, then a 
 small quantity of raspberry jam, and cover the whole 
 with a frothed cream. 
 
 623. TRIFLE (Middlesex) 
 
 To prepare this, take two ounces of blanched sweet 
 almonds, and one ounce of blanched bitter almonds, 
 and pound them to a smooth paste, adding as you 
 pound them, a httle rose-water ; take two lemons, 
 and grate the peels, and squeeze the juice into a 
 saucer ; four small sponge cakes, or Naples biscuits, 
 and eight, or more, macaroons must next be broken 
 into small pieces, and mixed with the almonds, 
 and the mixture be laid at the bottom of a glass 
 bowl ; grate a nutmeg over this, and throw in the 
 peel and the juice of the lemons ; to the whole add 
 half a pint of white wine mixed with half a gill of 
 brandy, and let the mixture remain until the cakes 
 are dissolved, when it may be stirred a httle. To a 
 quart of cream, add a quarter of a pound of powdered 
 loaf sugar, and a glass of noyeau, and beat with a 
 whisk till it stands alone ; as the froth rises, take it 
 off with a spoon, and lay on a sieve, with a large dish 
 under it, to drain ; then take the cream that has 
 been drained into the dish, and pour it back into 
 
CREAMS, CUSTARDS, JUNKETS, ETC. 245 
 
 the pan with the rest, the whole being beaten over 
 again ; this being done, set the cream in a cool place. 
 Have now a pint of rich baked custard, made of the 
 yolks of eggs, cold, and pour into the bowl upon the 
 dissolved cakes, and when the cream is cold, pour 
 that in also, heaping it high in the centre ; a layer 
 of fruit, jelly, or of well-preserved fruit, may be 
 put in between the custard and the frothed cream, 
 if that be preferred. 
 
 624. TINNED APRICOTS AND TRIFLE (Surrey) 
 
 Warm the syrup, add sugar if necessary, then 
 put in the apricots and cook a few minutes. Cut 
 stale sponge cakes into slices, place in glass dish ; 
 pour a little warm apricot syrup over them, leave 
 quite an hour. Put apricots (or peaches, or pears, 
 half a tin) on the sponge cakes, then a custard. 
 Finish the top with whipped cream, sweetened and 
 flavoured (a whipped white of egg may be added to 
 make more of it), decorate with pistachio nuts, 
 cherries, or angelica. For one pint of custard it will 
 be necessary to take half a pint of milk, one egg (a 
 yolk of another egg may be added), one ounce of 
 loaf sugar, and one teaspoonful of cornflour. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, FRUIT 
 PASTES, ETC. 
 
 Note. — The great pre-eminence of the home jam 
 over the factory article, is that, in the words of 
 Sam Weller, one " knows the lady wot made it." 
 One also is assured that she did not put in carrots, 
 seeds, glucose, or any alien matter in the way of 
 coloratives, preservatives, or sweeteners unknown 
 to the " home-farm." Of home-made jam one may 
 partake freely with pleasant and beneficial results ; 
 shop jam frequently leaves an acid taste in the mouth 
 and a most undesirable effect upon the whole of 
 the mucous membrane. Jams and preserves, more- 
 over, can be so easily achieved, and in most cases 
 so cheaply, that one is hardly justified in denying 
 one's family these inexpensive and invaluable com- 
 modities. It is especially advisable to attempt 
 those concoctions which cannot, as a rule, be 
 bought— apple jam, for instance, and rhubarb, and 
 vegetable marrow — grape-jelly (a charming affair), 
 — preparations of quince, mulberry, cucumber, etc. 
 Not so many recipes as you might expect are to 
 be found in the ensuing selection ; the reason being, 
 I imagine, that people were so accustomed to jam- 
 maliing as a matter of ordinary annual occurrence, 
 
 246 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 247 
 
 they never thought of writing down any formulas 
 for what everybody knew quite well. Be that as 
 it may, the everyday jams are to be found in any 
 cookery-book ; you can hardly go wrong in them. 
 Those here presented are of a somewhat more 
 unwonted character. 
 
 JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES 
 
 625. APPLE GINGER (Yorkshire) 
 
 Four pounds of apples, four pounds of sugar, one 
 quart of water, two ounces of essence of ginger. 
 Pare the fruit, take out the core, and cut in shapes 
 as like ginger-root as possible. Boil the sugar and 
 water for twenty-five minutes, till it is a nice syrup, 
 then put in the apples, the syrup boiling quickly all 
 the time, stirring it as little as possible; add the 
 ginger ; it will take about an hour to clear and 
 become yellow. Skim it well. Be sure to have your 
 apples all one kind, either all green or all yellow ones. 
 
 626. APPLE JAM (Cheshire) 
 
 Four pounds of apples peeled and cut as for a pie ; 
 an equal quantity of lump sugar ; the rind and juice 
 of two lemons, or rather more, and rather better than 
 three-quarters of an ounce of beaten grotmd ginger ; 
 also a few cloves. Boil slowly for an hour and a 
 half, or nearer two hours, without adding water. 
 About five minutes before taking off the fire add a 
 large wineglassful of spirits. This is to ensure the 
 keeping well. 
 
248 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESEEVES, ETC. 
 
 627. APPLE JELLY (Essex) 
 
 To every three pounds of apples add about a quart 
 of cold water. Simmer gently till tender and just on 
 the point of mashing. Strain, without squeezing, 
 through a jelly bag or hair sieve. Measure the 
 juice which comes through, and boil it for fifteen 
 minutes alone, then add a pound of preserving 
 sugar to every pint, and boU sugar and juice together 
 for twenty-five minutes. (The sugar should be 
 made hot in the oven before using.) Pour into jars 
 or jelly glasses, and cover over when cold, 
 
 628. APPLE JELLY (Ireland) 
 (For dessert use, not for keeping) 
 
 Take the amount you wish of codlings, or other 
 good English cooking apples ; pare, core, and cut 
 them into thin slices into a deep earthenware pan, 
 with as much water as will just cover them. When 
 soft, strain them through a jeUy-bag. To every 
 pound of liquor, add one pound of crushed or (better) 
 powdered sugar. Boil it very fsist for ten minutes. 
 Put some thinly sliced lemon peel in your moulds, 
 and pour in the jelly. Do not boil much at a time. 
 
 629. APPLE JELLY (Kent) 
 
 Three pounds of white sugar, four pounds of 
 apples (peeled and cored), a teaspoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, two lemons, rind and juice. 
 
 630. APPLE JELLY (Lancashire) 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter the fruit, and weigh it 
 quickly that it may not lose its colour. To each 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 249 
 
 pound pour a pint of cold water, and boil it until it is 
 well broken without being reduced to a white thick 
 pulp, as it would then be difficult to render the juice 
 perfectly clear, which it ought to be. Drain the 
 juice well from the apples, either through a fine sieve, 
 or a folded muslin strainer, and pass it afterwards 
 through a jelly-bag, or turn the fruit at once into the 
 last of these, and pour the liquid through a second 
 time if needed. When it appears quite transparent, 
 weigh, and reduce it by quick boiling for twenty 
 minutes. Add two pounds of sugar for three of 
 juice, then boil it for ten minutes. Put in the strained 
 juice of a small lemon for every two pounds of jelly, 
 a couple of minutes before it is taken from the fire. 
 
 631. APPLE MARMALADE (Middlesex) 
 
 Take six pounds of good cooking apples, peel and 
 core them and cut them into small pieces, as for a 
 pie, as evenly as possible. Put them into a basin 
 of cold water that they may keep their colour white, 
 while you do the rest. When ready, take them out 
 and weigh them, put them into a deep bowl, and 
 lay over them an equal amount of sugar, and to 
 every three pounds of apples add one tablespoonful 
 of ground ginger (this is better freshly grated, not 
 in the bought powder). Leave all to stand for three 
 days. The cores and peels should now be put in a lined 
 preserving pan, with enough water to cover them, 
 and boiled for half an hour, then strained off. At the 
 end of the three days, strain off the syrup from the 
 apples, add the juice from the peels, and boU for ten 
 minutes. Then put in the slices of apple, and let 
 them boil for half or three-quarters of an hour, 
 
250 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 till they are quite clear, taking care that they do 
 not break. 
 
 632. APPLE MARMALADE (Surrey) 
 
 Take two pounds of good sound cooking apples, 
 and put them in a lined saucepan with one pound of 
 castor sugar and one pint of sweet cider. Let them 
 cook quietly for three hours or so, until the fruit 
 is so soft it can be put through a sieve. If it is not 
 sweet enough, more castor sugar can be now added. 
 Put it into jars or pots, like ordinary jam. 
 
 633. BARBERRY JAM (1816) 
 
 Pick your barberries from the stalks, and put them 
 into an earthen pan, then into the oven to bake ; 
 when baked, pass them through a sieve with a large 
 wooden spoon, taking care there are no skins of the 
 barberries left in ; weigh the barberries and to every 
 two pounds allow two poimds and a half of powdered 
 sugar ; mix the sugar and the fruit together, put 
 it in your pots and cover it up ; set it in a dry 
 place ; when you have filled your pots with it, sift a 
 little powdered sugar over the tops of them. 
 
 634. BLACKBERRY JAM (Yorkshire) 
 Half a pound of good brown sugar to every pound 
 of fruit ; boil the whole together gently for one hour, 
 or till the blackberries are soft, stirring and mashing 
 them well. 
 
 635. CELERY IN IMITATION OF PRESERVED 
 GINGER (Middlesex) 
 
 Cut the blanched part of the celery in pieces, and 
 boU it in water with a large quantity of ginger until 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PEESERVES, ETC. 251 
 
 it is quite tender, then throw it into cold water and 
 allow it to remain an hour. At the end of this time 
 put it over a slow fire in good syrup, with some pieces 
 of ginger, and let it remain simmering for an hour. 
 Cool it again, and in the meantime, thicken the 
 syrup by further evaporation. Put the celery in 
 again, and repeat the same process. After a third 
 simmering in this way, taking care to keep the 
 syrup thick, put the celery into pots, and cover 
 with syrup. The stalks of lettuce, taking off the 
 outside, prepared in the same way, make a very 
 nice dessert sweet. 
 
 636. TO DRY CHERRIES WITHOUT SUGAR 
 
 (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Stone the cherries and set them in a pan over 
 the fire, with only what liquor comes out of them. 
 Shake them as they boil, then put them in an earthen 
 pot. The next day scald them, and when they are 
 cold, lay them on sieves to dry in an oven not too 
 hot. Twice heating in an oven will dry any sort of 
 cherries. 
 
 637. PRESERVED CITRONS (Kent) 
 
 Put them into water overnight ; boil them till 
 quite tender, cut them in halves, and to every pound 
 of citrons add a pound of sugar. Put about a table- 
 spoonful of water to every pound of sugar ; when all 
 is dissolved, pour it on the citrons, then put all on 
 the fire and let them boil about half an hour. Soak 
 a few races of ginger in water three or four days — 
 boil them first with a thin syrup, and afterwards 
 with the citrons. 
 
252 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 638. TO PRESERVE SIBERIAN CRABS (Cheshire) 
 
 A pound of loaf sugar to half a pint of water. 
 Simmer till clear. Then boil the crabs in this, very 
 gently tiU done, having first pricked them all over 
 to keep them from bursting. A little ginger, lemon, 
 and cochineal to be added before boiling. The 
 stalks are to be left on. 
 
 639. CRAB-APPLE JELLY (Kent) 
 
 Cut the crab-apples in halves, and put them in 
 a preserving pan with enough water to cover them. 
 Let them come to the boil but not to a pulp ; then 
 strain, and to every pint of juice add three-quarters 
 of a pound of white sugar. Boil three-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 640. PRESERVED CRANBERRIES (Middlesex) 
 
 For every pound of the fruit use two pounds of 
 sugar : pour a little water into the preserving pan, 
 then a layer of sugar, and then a layer of fruit : 
 boil gently for twenty minutes, and skim. 
 
 641. PRESERVED CUCUMBER (Ireland) 
 
 Take large and small cucumbers free from seeds ; 
 put them into salt and water, with cabbage leaves 
 on the top to keep them down. Tie a paper over, 
 and put them in a warm place till they are yeUow ; 
 then wash them out and put them into fresh salt 
 water. Continue to change the water till they are a 
 good green ; then take them out, and cut out aU 
 the pulp, and put them into cold water to take out 
 the salt. Let them so remain two or three days, 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PEESERVES, ETC. 253 
 
 changing the water twice a day. Take one pound 
 of fine sugar, and half a pint of water, put on the fire 
 and skim it clear. Add the rind of a lemon, cut very 
 thin, and one ounce of ginger. When the syrup is 
 cold, wipe the cucumbers, and put them in. Boil 
 up the preserve three times a week for three weeks. 
 
 642. QUIDDANY OF RED CURRANTS 
 (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Put your red currant berries into a jar, with a 
 spoonful or two of water, and cover it close, and 
 stand it in boiling water. When you think they are 
 done enough, strain them, and put to every pint 
 of juice a pound of loaf sugar. Boil it up jelly 
 height, and put it into glasses for use. 
 
 643. DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE (Kent) 
 
 To every pound of fruit allow half a pound of pre- 
 serving sugar ; fruit to be sound and not too ripe. 
 Put the fruit into large jars ; sprinkle the sugar 
 over the fruit. Lay saucers over the jars and place 
 them in a moderately cool oven for an hom: or two, 
 until the fruit is tender. When cold, cover the top 
 of the jars with white paper cut to the size of the 
 jar. Pour over this melted mutton fat, about two 
 inches thick ; cover over with brown paper, and 
 keep in dry place. As a rule they keep till February ; 
 but the fruit must not be too ripe. 
 
 644. GOOSEBERRY JELLY (Lincolnshire) 
 
 Make gooseberry jelly the ordinary way, and when 
 it is ready to take off the fire, have ready a bunch 
 of elder-flowers tied up in a piece of muslin, which 
 
a54 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 turn round and round in the jelly imtil it has the 
 desired flavour ; it is really Uke a most dehcious 
 grape. 
 
 645. GRAPE CONSERVE (American) 
 
 One basket of grapes, one and a half pints of sugar, 
 one and a half pounds of seeded raisins, half a pound 
 of walnut kernels. Remove pulp from grapes, boil 
 five minutes, put through a colander, to remove 
 seeds. Add raisins, sugar, and nuts chopped fine, 
 and boil thirty minutes till thick. 
 
 646. GRAPE JELLY (American) 
 
 Free the grapes from stems and leaves. Put in 
 preserving kettle, mash, and heat slowly. After 
 reaching boiKng-point, simmer for half an hour. 
 Put them in a jelly-bag — I let mine drip aU night. 
 Measure juice, put in kettle, boil for twenty minutes. 
 Measure equal quantity of sugar, add to juice, and 
 stir till dissolved. Put into jelly glasses. 
 
 647. GRAPE MARMALADE (American) 
 
 Pulp the grapes ; cook pulps till tender. Press 
 through sieve and add skins, allowing three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar to half a pound of fruit. Cook _ 
 slowly. 
 
 648. LEMON MARMALADE (Surrey) 
 
 For this you want twelve lemons, and an equal 
 weight in preserving sugar. Wash and wipe the 
 lemons, then halve them, strain out the juice, and 
 put the pips by themselves into a bowl with a 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 255 
 
 tumblerful of cold water. The peels must be put 
 into cold water in a lined pan, and boiled till tho- 
 roughly tender. Then take them out, and having 
 removed all the white pith you can, cut the rinds 
 into the thinnest possible shreds or strips, about 
 half an iach long. Next put the lemon juice, the 
 water from the pips, and the sugar into a preserving 
 pan, and let it boil to a syrup. Add the rinds, and 
 boil till the marmalade will " set." 
 
 649. MOUNTAIN ASH JELLY (Surrey) 
 Pick the mountain-ash berries clean from the 
 stalks, and stew them down to as near a pulp as 
 you can, with enough water to cover them and a 
 very little " race " ginger. Crush and strain the 
 pulp, and boil it up again for half an hour, with 
 two-thirds of its weight in sugar. (Mountain ash 
 is known in Ireland as " quicken " and in Scotland 
 as " rowan." It is credited with wonderfully re- 
 storative properties, and is, I believe, largely used 
 in the jeUy form upon the Continent, especially in 
 Switzerland. Ed.) 
 
 650. ANOTHER WAY (Middlesex) 
 
 Pare, core, and slice two pounds of good preserving 
 apples of the juiciest kind, and boil them for twenty 
 minutes or more in one quart of water, till they are 
 well to pieces. Strain off the water, and add to the 
 apples in the preserving pan three pounds of moun- 
 tain ash berries. Let all simmer gently tmtil quite 
 pulped : then strain off the juice, and to every pint 
 measure one pound of sugar. Let the juice boil fast 
 for twenty minutes, then put in the sugar, which 
 
256 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 should be warmed and crushed. Boil for fifteen 
 minutes more, skimming well, and then pour off the 
 jelly into heated pots. Some people put a leaf of 
 scented geranium, such as oakleaf, into every pot, 
 
 651. PRESERVED MELONS OR CUCUMBERS (Kent) 
 
 Gather the melons when fresh and green ; rub 
 them smooth with a coarse cloth ; put them in strong 
 salt and water ; tie them down close and set them 
 by the fire ; change them from top to bottom till 
 quite yellow, then put them in a skillet with layers 
 of vine leaves and strong salt and water, a small 
 piece of soda and the same of alum. Put it over the 
 fire at some distance till quite scalding hot, but not 
 boiling. If not green in a few hours, change the 
 water and leaves, and put them on again ; when 
 green, drain them on a sieve, and throw them in 
 fresh water for three days, changing it every day. 
 Make a thin syrup with one pound of sugar and a 
 gallon of water boiled an hour and cleared with the 
 white of an egg. When nearly cold, pour it over 
 them, repeating the same for a week, each day a 
 little warmer ; the last day let them boil five minutes. 
 
 652. TO PRESERVE MULBERRIES IN SUGAR 
 (Middlesex) 
 
 Choose large and very ripe mulberries ; put them 
 gently into some strong syrup, and let them boil, 
 covering over the pan, and shaking it gently from 
 time to time ; then take off the fire, skim the syrup, 
 and let them stand for two hours. They are then 
 to be put on again, and boiled until the syrup is 
 exceedingly thick. Pour into glasses and pots, and 
 keep by for use. 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PEESERVES, ETC. 257 
 
 653. TO PRESERVE MULBERRIES IN A DRY 
 STATE (Middlesex) 
 
 Gather them when not quite ripe, and give them 
 a boil in syrup ; then let them stand for twenty-four 
 hours near the fire, so as just to keep warm. At 
 the end of this time, take them out, drain them, and 
 put them upon tins, powdering them well with dry 
 sugar, and exposing them to the sun. When they 
 are dry on one side, turn them, powder them in the 
 same way, and finish the drying. 
 
 654. ORANGE JELLY (Kent) 
 
 One ounce of isinglass, one pint of hot water. 
 Rub some loaf sugar on the rinds of six oranges and 
 four lemons until they appear white. Put the sugar 
 into the water, and let it remain until the isinglass 
 is dissolved, then add the juice of the fruit and let 
 it just boil, then strain into moulds. 
 
 655. ORANGE MARMALADE CONSERVE 
 (Devonshire) 
 
 Take three Seville oranges, one sweet orange, one 
 lemon, five pounds of sugar, five pints of water. Cut 
 fruit in half, squeeze all the juice out, put straight in 
 preserving pan. Cut up the peel as finely as possible 
 with very sharp knives, put into the pan also and 
 five pints of water. Leave to soak for twenty-four 
 hours. Put the pips to soak in a little water separ- 
 ately ; boil them for some time and strain off into the 
 other pan. Boil all for one hour without sugar, 
 and then, without letting it cool, for two hours with 
 sugar. When the juice begins to jellify on a cold 
 saucer, it is done. 
 17 
 
258 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 656. SMOOTH ORANGE MARMALADE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Weigh the oranges, take the same weight of sugar 
 as of fruit, wipe all the oranges with a wet cloth 
 and grate the rind, cut the fruit in quarters longways, 
 strip off the skin with a knife and pick out the seeds 
 clean from them, then put on the skins to boil until 
 they are so tender that they will beat to a mash. 
 When you take the skins ofE the fire, squeeze the 
 water out of them, and take away all the strings. 
 Pound them in a marble mortar, clarify the sugar, 
 then take the pounded skins and mix them by 
 degrees with the syrup. When it is well mixed 
 put it into the pan and let it boil until the sugar is 
 incorporated with it, then put in the pulp, which 
 must be carefuUy scraped with a knife off the skins 
 before they are put on to boil. Let the marmalade 
 boil till it is of an equal thickness, you will know 
 when it is done enough by its turning heavier in 
 stirring, and of a finer colour. Whenever it begkis 
 to spajkle it is done enough. Pound the grated 
 rind in a mortar, take off the marmalade and stir 
 in the grated rind carefully ; when it is all in, put 
 on the pan again, and let it boil imtil it is 
 thoroughly mixed. You may keep out some of the 
 rind, unless you like it very bitter and thick. If 
 you keep it out, use it for seasoning. In making 
 Chip Marmalade only a small part of the skins are 
 to be pounded, the remainder cut in strips. 
 
 657. TO PRESERVE PEARS (Devonshire) 
 
 Take the largest stewing pears when they are on 
 the turn. Pare them nicely, cut them in halves, 
 leaving the stem on. To every pound of pears add 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 259 
 
 three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and to 
 about fifty pears put a pint of water, the juice and 
 peel of four lemons (the peel to be pared thin and 
 cut in long strips), a small cup of cloves, and a little 
 cochineal to colour them. Let them stew very 
 gently over a slow fire, turning them constantly 
 until you can pass a straw through them, then add 
 a teacupful of brandy and let them boU two or thiee 
 minutes longer. Put them in jars and tie down 
 as other preserves ; they will keep good for twelve 
 months. 
 
 658. PEAR MARMALADE (Yorkshire) 
 
 You require six pounds of small pears, and four 
 pounds of sugar. Put the pears into a saucepan 
 with cold water ; cover it and set it over the fire tUl 
 the fruit is soft ; then put the pears into cold water ; 
 pare, quarter and core them, put to them three tea- 
 cups of water, set them over the fire. Roll the sugar 
 fine, mash the fruit fine and smooth, put the sugar 
 to it, stir it well together till it is thick, like jelly. 
 Then put it into tumblers or jars, and when it is 
 quite cold serve it in the same way as jelly. 
 
 659. TO PRESERVE JARGONEL PEARS (Ireland) 
 
 Pare very thin, and simmer for ten minutes in a 
 syrup of one pint of water and one pound of sugar. 
 Let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer, 
 and simmer again. Repeat this till they are clear, 
 and the syrup the thickness of honey. 
 
 660. PRESERVED PEACHES (Kent) 
 
 Take an equal weight of fruit and sugar ; lay the 
 fruit in a large dish, and sprinkle half the sugar over. 
 
260 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 in fine powder ; give them a gentle shaking ; the 
 next day make a thin syrup with the remainder of 
 the sugar, and instead of water, if you have it, 
 allow one pint of red currant juice to every pound 
 of peaches ; simmer them ia this till sufficiently 
 clear. 
 N.B. — Pick them when not dead ripe. 
 
 661. QUINCE JAM (Kent) 
 
 Half a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit ; 
 about a large teacupful of water to five or six pounds 
 of fruit. Cover the stewpan close during the last 
 ten miuutes to improve the colour. The hard, dry 
 quinces are better if peeled and put into a jar with 
 a small quantity of sugar ; the peelings can be put 
 on the top and covered with paper and put iuto the 
 oven after the bread is out, and then preserved in 
 the usual way. 
 
 662. QUINCE MARMALADE (Kent) 
 
 Peel the quinces and cut them into quarters, and 
 to every pound of fruit allow three-quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar with a little water. Boil them 
 gently for three hours and put it into jars ; simmer 
 the seeds in water to a jelly, and add to the above 
 while boiling. 
 
 663. UNBOILED RASPBERRY JAM (Gloucestershire) 
 
 One and a quarter pounds of best lump sugar to 
 each pound of raspberries. Put on the fruit, bring 
 it to boihng point, but do not let it boil more than 
 two or three nlinutes. Add the sugar — stir till 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PEESERVES, ETC. 261 
 
 quite dissolved. Again bring to boiling point. 
 Dish it at once into warm jam pots and cover while 
 hot. Keeps well. Is of splendid colour and retains 
 the flavour of fresh fruit. 
 
 664 RHUBARB JAM (Essex) 
 
 Required : eight pounds of rhubarb, eight pounds 
 of sugar, four level teaspoonfuls of ginger, one pound 
 of candied peel. Wipe the rhubarb and cut into pieces 
 about one inch long. Put in a pan, slightly crush 
 the sugar and spread this over it. Leave it till next 
 day. Then cut the lemon peel up thinly, add the 
 ginger, and boil the whole till it turns a nice red 
 colour, probably one and a half hours. Pour into 
 dry scalded jars and cover down at once. It wiU 
 not need any brandied paper. The easiest way to 
 cover jam is to cut pieces of tissue paper to the desired 
 size, dip in cold milk, and use, pressing carefully 
 against the jar so that the covering shall be all tight. 
 Unless carefully done, the paper wiU tear. 
 
 665. PRESERVED RHUBARB (Lincolnshire) 
 
 Weight for weight of fruit and sugar. Pare the 
 rhubarb and cut in three-inch pieces ; pound one 
 third of sugar, and put it over rhubarb. Let it 
 stand all night. Pour off the juice in the morning, 
 and boil it with the remainder of sugar. Then pour 
 it over the fruit and let it stand tUI cold. Then put 
 it through a hair sieve, and boil the juice again for 
 fifteen minutes. Add the fruit and let it boil till 
 tender. Some essence of ginger to be put in a little 
 before it is taken off the fire. 
 
262 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 666. CONSERVE OF RED ROSES 
 (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take a quart of red rose-water, and a quart of 
 fair (fresh) water, and boil in it a pound of red rose- 
 leaves, the whites cut off. The leaves must be boiled 
 very tender ; then take three pounds of sugar, 
 and put it to the roses, a pound at a time, and let 
 it boil a little between every pound : and so put it up 
 in your pots. 
 
 667. ROSE-PETAL JAM (Stirrey) 
 
 Make a syrup of one pound of loaf sugar and as 
 little rose-water as you can do with. Take a pound 
 of rose-petals (cabbage roses are best) and dry them 
 in a shady place. Scald them for a moment in 
 boiling water, then drain and dry them, and add 
 them, with a spoonful of orange-flower water, to 
 the syrup. Boil in a preserving-pan until the jam 
 will " set " or " jell " when dropped upon a plate. 
 When it has cooled off a little, pour it into pots, and 
 cover up well, the usual way. 
 
 668. COMPETE OP WILD ROSE-BERRIES (Surrey) 
 
 Collect wild rose-berries, cut off the tops, cut them 
 open and carefully remove all seeds and hairs (it 
 is well to wear gloves while doing this, as the hairs get 
 under the nails and are curiously irritating). Then 
 boil down the berries in a preserving-pan, with as 
 little water as possible ; and when they are quite 
 tender, pulp them through a sieve. Add sugar, the 
 proportion being at least three-quarters of a pound 
 to each pound of pulped berries, and let the mixture 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 263 
 
 boil up quickly till the sugar is dissolved, then re- 
 move it from the fire and bottle it as soon as ooolish. 
 (This coiopote, under the name of Hagenmarken, 
 is largely made and sold in Germany. The difference 
 between a compote and a jam is stated variously by 
 various authors ; but I take it that the latter term 
 apphes to " wet " fruits, such as strawberries, rasp- 
 berries, etc., and that the sugar is put in along 
 with the fruit to boil. In a compote, the material, 
 being harder and drier, needs long preliminary 
 cooking ; the sugar really requires none at all, so 
 can be added at the last moment ; it is not essential 
 that it should be either syrupped or candied. Ed.) 
 
 669. PRESERVED STEWED FRUIT (Somerset) 
 
 Take equal weight of fruit and sugar, put the 
 sugar in the oven and let it get so hot that it will 
 burn the hand, but be careful it does not brown. 
 Bring the fruit to boiling point and allow it to boil for 
 five minutes ; add the melted sugar and let it boU 
 for three minutes : it is then done. Raspberries 
 done in this way will be a bright red colour, and 
 taste like ripe fruit ; they wUl keep as well as a 
 preserve done thus. 
 
 670. TO SUGAR ANY SORT OP SMALL FRUIT 
 
 (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Beat the white of an egg, and dip the fruit in it ; 
 let it lie on a dry cloth : take some fine sifted sugar 
 and gently roU the fruit in it till it is quite covered 
 and coated with sugar. Lay it in a sieve on the 
 stove, or before a fire, to dry it weU : it will keep 
 well for a week. 
 
264 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 671. PRESERVED TOMATOES (Essex) 
 
 Put the tomatoes in wide-mouthed open jars, 
 cover them entirely with cold water, on the top of 
 which pour half an inch of salad oil. Cover them 
 closely and securely. (The correct placing of this 
 recipe, as regards chapter, is hardly possible ! Ed.) 
 
 672. VEGETABLE MARROW JAM (Middlesex) 
 
 Procure a good sound well-ripened marrow, of 
 twelve pounds weight. Peel it and cut it into 
 cubes two inches square, add the juice and very 
 thinly cut rind of four lemons ; mix in one pound of 
 sugar to every pound of marrow, and place in an 
 enamelled preserving-pan or in a deep earthenware 
 jar, for twenty-four hours. Then add three ounces 
 of bruised race ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 chillies (this is optional) in a muslin bag. Let the 
 mixture boU for one and a half hours in the pre- 
 serving-pan (counting from the time that it comes 
 to the boU) and, just before it is done, add half a 
 pound of candied peel cut into very thin strips. 
 
 673. PRESERVED VEGETABLE MARROW (belaud) 
 
 Cut the marrow in long narrow strips ; peel and 
 weigh equal quantities of loaf sugar ; sprinkle a httle 
 sugar on the fruit, and leave it for a night. Next 
 day, boil it with its own syrup, and the rest of the 
 sugar, and one lemon to every pound of fruit. Put 
 about thirty pepper pods to every four pounds ; 
 two wine-glasses of spirits to be added before taking 
 it off the fire. Before adding the spirits, it is well 
 to take out the fruit and boil the syrup with some 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 265 
 
 more sugar, then pour over the fruit. It should be 
 quite clear. The lemons should be cut in circles ; 
 only half the rinds. Tie the pepper in muslin. 
 
 674. DUTCH RECIPE FOR PRESERVING FRUIT 
 (Cape Colony) 
 
 Make a syrup to the proportion of two cups of 
 sugar to four of water. Let it boil for a few minutes 
 in a preserving pan. If it is not clear, strain through 
 butter muslin. Then put two or three pounds of 
 fruit in it at a time while the syrup is boiling, and 
 simmer from ten to twenty minutes, according to 
 the kind of fruit ; the latter should be soft and 
 clear when done, and unbroken. Take the bottles, 
 previously warmed, fill to the top with fruit and 
 a little syrup. Screw them down tightly. Then 
 add more fruit to the boiling syrup until it is used. 
 Do not forget to screw the covers more tightly the 
 following day. If you have no screw bottles, pour 
 boiling mutton suet on the top of each bottle when 
 cold, about a quarter of an inch thick. Any syrup 
 over can be bottled and used as a fruit drink. Add 
 vinegar and water to it at the table. Must be kept 
 in a dry place. Will keep for months. 
 
 FRUIT CHEESES AND PASTES 
 675. ALMACKS (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Equal quantities of plums, pears, and apples, cut 
 in slices, put into an earthen jar and baked. When 
 thoroughly done, squeeze them through a colander. 
 To three pounds of fruit, add one poimd of moist 
 sugar, and let it simmer gently for some time till it 
 
266 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 becomes a thick jam, then put it into saucers or 
 shallow pans, and let it stand on the kitchen rack 
 for a day to stiffen and dry. When dried so, it will 
 keep in paper. 
 
 676. APPLE CHEESE (1815) 
 
 Pare and quarter your apples and take out the 
 cores, put them into a deep pot or jar, and put the 
 paring and cores at the top ; let them bake in a 
 moderate oven till quite soft ; take off the parings, 
 cores, and bits of apple which are at the top, i£ they 
 are dry or hard ; then put your apples into a stew- 
 pan, with fine powdered sugar to your taste, and 
 boil them four hours till it is quite stiff. Put the 
 cheese in moulds or cups, and lay paper over it 
 moistened with brandy ; set it in a dry place, and 
 in three weeks it wiU cut quite smooth. N.B. — 
 You may add a little of the rind of a lemon grated, 
 or a few drops of essence of lemon, before you put 
 it into the moulds; also a few blanched almonds 
 cut into small pieces and mixed with it. 
 
 677. APPLE PASTE (Middlesex) 
 
 Peel and core some fine apples and boU them in 
 water. When quite soft, take them out and put 
 them in cold water ; having drained them, press 
 them through a coarse cloth ; put this marmalade 
 into a pan on the fire, stir it frequently with a wooden 
 spoon, and when it is nearly dry, take it out and 
 add an equal weight of sugar, mixing them well 
 together. Press the mixture flat, of the thickness 
 of an ordinary piecrust ; put it upon tins and place 
 to dry in a slack oven. 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PEESERVES, ETC. 267 
 
 678. APRICOT PASTE (Middlesex) 
 
 Set any quantity of the fruit you may require 
 over the fire in a stewpan, and cook till they are 
 quite soft ; then take out the stones, pass the fruit 
 through a sieve, and dry. Then take clarified sugar 
 equal in weight to the fruit, mix, and let them press 
 well together. Turn out into shapes, and dry in a 
 slow oven or in the sun. 
 
 679. BULLACE CHEESE (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take your bullaces when they are full ripe, and 
 to every quart of fruit put a quarter of a pound of 
 loaf sugar beaten small. Put them in a jar in 
 moderate oven to bake till they are soft, then rub 
 them through a hair sieve, and to every pound of 
 pulp, add half a pound of loaf sugar crushed fine. 
 Then boil it four and a half hours over a slow 
 fire, and keep stirring it all the time. Put it into 
 pots, and tie brandy papers over them, and keep 
 them in a dry place. When it has stood a few 
 months, it will cut out very bright and fine. You 
 may make sloe cheese the same way. 
 
 680. CHERRY CHEESE (1815) 
 
 Stone some Kentish cherries, crack as many 
 of the stones as you choose, blanch the kernels in 
 boiling water, and mix them with the fruit ; to every 
 twelve poxmds of fruit add three pounds of Lisbon 
 sugar ; boil it to a thick jam, and when the fruit no 
 longer cleaves to the pan, it is done enough. 
 
268 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 681. BLACK CURRANT PASTE (Middlesex) 
 
 The best way of making black currant paste is to 
 dissolve an ounce of isinglass in about half a pint of 
 the filtered juice, and equal weight of sugar ; put 
 them in a stewpan, and let them simmer for at 
 least an hour, then pour out the juice into a very 
 shallow tin mould, and when it is cold and quite 
 hard, cut it into pieces. 
 
 682. DAMSON CHEESE (1816) 
 
 Pick the damsons free from stalks, leaves, etc., 
 put them into a jar and tie white paper over them ; 
 bake them in a slow oven till quite soft, rub them 
 through a colander while hot ; put the pulp and 
 juice which has passed through the colander into 
 a stewpan, with fine powdered sugar to your taste ; 
 boil it over a moderate fire tUl it is as stiff as you 
 can possibly stir it, which will take three hours ; 
 keep stirring it to prevent it burning to the pan ; 
 and a few minutes before you take it off the fire, 
 put the kernels of the damsons into the pan, and 
 mix with it ; put it into cups or moulds, let it stand 
 a day, and cut some pieces of writing paper the size 
 of the tops of the cups or moulds, dip them in 
 brandy and put close over them : put them in a dry 
 place, and they will keep for several years. 
 You may make plum or buUace cheese the same 
 way. It is necessary to take the skins off the kernels 
 before you put them into the pan. 
 
 683. DAMSON CHEESE (Cheshire) 
 
 Put your damsons in a large stone jar, and tie 
 it over tight, and put it in the oven tiE the fruit 
 
JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 269 
 
 is soft and the juice running out. Rub the fruit 
 through the sieve till you have got the pulp out. 
 Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every 
 pound of pulp. Boil it well. Try a little in a 
 saucer, and if it sets, it will be boiled enough. 
 Break the stones and put in the kernels or some 
 blanched bitter almonds while boiling. Stir all the 
 time, as it soon bums. 
 
 684 GOOSEBERRY PASTE (Surrey) 
 Take some gooseberries from which you have 
 extracted the juice for jelly, without drawing them 
 very closely. Pass them through a sieve, weigh 
 them, and boU the pulp for about one and a quartei 
 hours, until it forms a dry paste in the pan. Lift 
 it o£E the fire and stir in six ounces of good pounded 
 sugar to each pound of fruit. When this is nearly 
 dissolved, boil the mixture for twenty to twenty- 
 five minutes ; stir it incessantly, or it will be likely to 
 burn. Put it into moulds or shallow dishes, and 
 use it as wanted for table. 
 
 685. CONSERVE OR PASTE OF PEACHES 
 
 (Middlesex) 
 
 Make a marmalade of ripe peaches in an iron pot, 
 with three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every 
 pound of fruit ; stir frequently, taking care they do 
 not burn ; dry the marmalade carefully on a hot 
 plate, or in a slack oven ; and when nearly dry, 
 mix a quarter of a pound of the marmalade with a 
 pound of very finely pounded sugar ; press it into 
 the form of a cake, drying thoroughly, and it will 
 keep for almost any length of time. It carmot be 
 dried too slowly. 
 
270 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 
 
 686. LOZENGES OF RED ROSES 
 (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 (Proportions not given.) Boil your sugar to sugar 
 again {i.e. till it candies) ; then put in your red roses, 
 being finely beaten and made moist with the juice 
 of a lemon. Let it not boil after the roses are in, 
 but pour it upon a pie plate and cut it into what 
 form you please. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 
 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 Note. — The home-made sweetmeat is so pure, so 
 wholesome, and so attractive, as compared with the 
 manufactured article, that one need hardly utter a 
 syllable in its praise. It is its own praise. The old 
 MS. books to which I have had access, did not deal 
 with any great variety of confections : theirs are, 
 as a rule, simple sugary affairs at best, with a 
 modest flavouring or colouring. 
 
 Either the involved and artistic achievements of 
 the present day, it would seem, were beyond the 
 scope of our mothers, or they did not trouble 
 to set down the secrets thereof. These, therefore, 
 are more or less of a familiar nursery type : but 
 such as they are, they are always a source of gratifi- 
 cation : pure of glucose and of baneful colouring 
 matters, safe and sound to eat. 
 
 A buttered dish is indispensable in sweetmaking, 
 and a very sharp knife. " Lined " saucepans or 
 copper preserving pans must be used : and it is 
 hardly necessary to remark that all utensils should 
 be exquisitely clean. 
 
 687. CANDIED ANGELICA (Middlesex) 
 When the stems are of a good size and before they 
 run to seed, cut them into slices, and put them for 
 
 271 
 
272 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 some time into cold water after having removed the 
 rind : then boil them until they become soft, and 
 wash them afterwards two or three times in cold 
 water ; boil them in strong syrup for an hour, then 
 let them stand for twenty-four hours ; now take 
 them out of the syrup, and drain them. In the 
 meantime, strengthen the syrup by the addition 
 of more sugar, and afterwards let the angelica 
 simmer in it for half an hour. It is then to be taken 
 out, placed upon tins, and dried in a slow oven, or 
 on a hot plate, powdering it well with white sugar. 
 Angelica preserved in this way will remain good for 
 several years. 
 
 688. BURNT ALMONDS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take two pounds of loaf sugar, and two pounds 
 of almonds, put them in a stewpan with a pint of 
 water, set them over a clear coal fire, let them boil 
 till you hear the almonds crack. Take them off 
 and stir them about till they are quite dry ; then 
 put them in a wire sieve and shake all the sugar from 
 them. Put the sugar into the pan again with a 
 Uttle water, give it a boil, put four (tea ?) spoonfuls 
 of scraped cochineal to colour it. Put the almonds 
 into the pan ; keep stirring them over the fire tiU 
 they are quite dry. They will keep twelve months 
 in a glass jar. 
 
 689. BURNT ALMONDS, RED (1815) 
 
 Take some of the finest Jordan almonds you can 
 get, sift all the dust from them, have some syrup 
 boiling in a pan, and let it boil tm it comes almost 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 273 
 
 to caramel ; put half a (tea ? ) cupful of cochineal 
 in ; put the almonds in as fast as you can, and 
 stir them till they are cold ; then put them in your 
 sieve, and break those that stick together; then 
 have another pan of syrup boiling, the same as 
 before, and when they are cold, pick them from 
 each other, for they must always have the coats of 
 sugar on them. See that your cochineal is properly 
 mixed to make them of a fine colour, as you must 
 put more cochineal in the last coat than you did in 
 the first. 
 
 690. BURNT ALMONDS, WHITE (1815) 
 
 Take some of the finest Jordan almonds you can 
 get, and sift all the dust from them ; then have some 
 syrup boiling in a pan, and let it boil till it comes 
 almost to a caramel ; put your almonds in, and stir 
 them till they are cold ; put them in your sieve, 
 break those that stick together, and then have 
 another pan of syrup boiling, the same as before, 
 and give them two coats of sugar ; when done, pick 
 them from each other. 
 
 691. ALMOND PASTE (Somerset) 
 
 Take one pound of ground almonds, one pound 
 of castor sugar, one tablespoonful of orange-flower 
 water, eight or nine drops of essence of almonds, 
 two whole eggs and one white of egg. Mix sugar 
 and almonds well together ; add orange-flower water 
 and essence of almonds. Beat the eggs well and 
 knead them into it. If to be used on a cake, spread 
 the paste on with a knife dipped in hot water, 
 18 
 
274 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 692. CANDIED APRICOTS (Surrey) 
 
 Take some apricots which are not quite ripe, and 
 remove the stones without entirely dividing the 
 fruit. Put them into cold water ; then blanch them 
 on the fire ; when they become soft, take them off, 
 and put them again into cold water. When they are 
 cold, drain them, and throw them into some clarified 
 sugar, which has been made into a thick syrup 
 while it is in a boiling state ; let the whole boil 
 again for a few minutes, and let. them stand for 
 twenty-four hours. Take out the apricots, and give 
 the syrup another boil, then throw it boiling over 
 the fruit, and let all stand another twenty-four 
 hours ; after which take them out, drain them, put 
 them on dishes which have been well covered with 
 powdered sugar, dry them in a stove, and lay them 
 by in a box, placed in layers, with a sheet of paper 
 between each. 
 
 693. CANDIED BARBERRIES (Surrey) 
 
 Make a good strong syrup, and when it boils, put 
 in your barberries in bunches (the proportion of 
 syrup should be two pounds of sugar to three pounds 
 of barberries), and let them simmer a few minutes. 
 Then lift them out and let them get cold. The 
 next day boil them again in the sugar for about half 
 an hour. When cold, take them out and powder 
 them with sugar, and let them dry under glasses in 
 the sun, 
 
 694. BARLEY SUGAR (Middlesex) 
 
 Melt some sugar over the fire with a decoction of 
 barley, mixed with whites of eggs, well beaten into 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 275 
 
 a light froth : this is then passed through a jelly- 
 bag, and again boiled till it forms large bubbles : 
 then throw it out on a marble slab or flat dish, 
 which has been lightly rubbed over with oil of sweet 
 almonds : when the bubbles disappear, it is rolled 
 into round sticks, and left to cool and harden. 
 
 695. BARLEY SUGAR (Surrey) 
 
 Put into a lined saucepan a good handful of fine 
 barley, and the thinly pared rind of half a lemon. 
 Pour in one quart of cold water, and let it simmer for 
 two hours. Then let it stand and settle ; when it 
 has settled, pour off the water carefully. Pour a 
 pint of what is left, with two pounds of loaf sugar, 
 into a pan, and stand it over a gentle heat until the 
 sugar is melted, then let it boil. Add the juice of 
 one lemon, and boil up again till it begins to crack. 
 Pour it out on to a buttered dish, and when cool cut 
 it into strips. When these are almost cold, hold 
 them at either end and twist them in opposite 
 directions. 
 
 696. BLACK CURRANT DROPS (1816) 
 
 Get half a sieve of black currants, put them in a 
 pan ; mash them with your spaddle, and put them 
 over the fire ; bring them just to a boU, and pass 
 them through a sieve over an earthen pan. Put 
 what jelly comes from them in an earthen pipkin, 
 and put it over the fire and let it boil for two hours ; 
 stir it all the time at bottom with your spaddle, or 
 else it will bum ; put in two pounds and a half of 
 powdered sugar, mix it with the jam and stir it 
 over the fire half an hour. Drop it on metal sheets or 
 
276 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 plates, in little drops from your knife, and put them 
 in your hot stove ; let them be there tUl you find 
 they are quite dry, and then take them off with your 
 knife. 
 
 697. BUTTERSCOTCH (Middlesex) 
 
 Take one pound of lump sugar and half a pint of 
 milk, stir them together ia a saucepan over the fire 
 until the sugar is thoroughly melted. Then add 
 half a pound of butter, dropping in little bits at a 
 time, and a pinch of cream-of-tartar. Mix well, 
 and boil the butterscotch until a piece will set into 
 a fairly hard ball on being dropped into cold water. 
 Pour it upon an oiled or buttered tin, and out it into 
 small squares when sufficiently set. 
 
 698. CHOCOLATE ALMONDS (Surrey) 
 
 Blanch your almonds : melt some good chocolate 
 in a lined pan, thinning it if necessary with a very 
 little syrup. Dip the almonds in, one at a time, 
 upon a long pin, and lay them to dry upon a 
 buttered dish. 
 
 699. CHOCOLATE DROPS (1815) 
 
 Take one pound and a half of chocolate, and 
 put it in the oven just to warm the chocolate ; then 
 put it into a copper stewpan, with three-quarters 
 of a pound of powdered sugar ; mix it well over 
 the fire, take it off, and roll it in pieces the size of 
 small marbles ; put them on white paper, and when 
 they are all on, take the sheet of paper by each 
 comer, and lift it up and down, so that the paper 
 may touch the table each time, and by that means 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 277 
 
 you will see the drops come quite flat, about the 
 size of a sixpence ; put some sugar nonpareils over 
 them, and cover all that are on the paper, and then 
 shake them off, and you will see all the chocolate 
 drops covered with the sugar nonpareils. Let them 
 stand till cold, and they will come off well, and then 
 put them in a papered box. 
 
 700. COCONUT CANDY (Hampshire) 
 
 Take one and a half pounds of white sugar and 
 put it with three-quarters of a piut of cold water to 
 boil in a lined saucepan. When the sugar has dis- 
 solved, boil for five minutes, then strain it, and mix 
 in, thoroughly well, one and a half pounds of grated 
 coconut. Put the saucepan close to the fire and 
 stir the mixture until it begins to candy. Then 
 spread it on sheets of white paper which have been 
 made warm, or on a warmed tin, well buttered. 
 Before the candy is quite cold, take off the paper, 
 and cut it into squares Let it get quite dry before 
 being stored. If you wish any to be pink, divide 
 the mixture into two pans (before putting in the 
 coconut), and colour the syrup in one of these with 
 a little cochineal. 
 
 701. COCONUT CANDY (Surrey) 
 
 Take a fresh coconut, rasp it very fine, spread it 
 on a dish, and let it dry naturally for two or three 
 days. To every four oimces of grated coconut 
 add one pound of sugar (but you can add more 
 coconut if you choose). Boil the sugar to a syrup ; 
 when it has boiled about ten minutes, and begins 
 to be thick and white, stir in the nut, mix it well, 
 
278 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 and do not leave it a moment till it is done. Stand 
 the pan over, not on, the fixe, as this candy bums 
 very easily. For almond candy, proceed the same, 
 but first dry the almonds in a gentle oven, and do 
 not put them to the sugar till it approaches candying 
 point. 
 
 702. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Take two pounds of powdered sugar, set it in a 
 lined saucepan, just covered with water. Let it 
 boil till it is brittle, then take it off the fire. Have 
 ready two whites of eggs well beaten, and beat them 
 as quick as you can into the sugar. When the 
 mixture is quite cool, add either a grated coconut 
 (fresh), or the same amount of desiccated coconut 
 and ten or twelve drops of lemon-juice. Then pour 
 off into a buttered dish or pan, and cut it in strips. 
 For pink candy, set half the mixture in a separate 
 saucepan, and colour it with a little cochineal. 
 
 703. COCONUT ICE (Hampshire) 
 
 Take one grated fresh coconut, two pounds of 
 loaf sugar, a small piece of butter, one tablespoonful 
 of cream, a little cochineal. (A very large nut will 
 require three pounds of sugar, and water in propor- 
 tion.) Take the coconut mUk, and add water 
 sufiicient to make half a pint all together. Add the 
 sugar, and boil well for ten minutes, then stir in 
 the grated nut and boU another ten minutes. Take 
 it off the fire, add the cream, and beat the mixture 
 well until it begins to set. Pour half into a buttered 
 soup-plate ; add a little cochineal to the other half, 
 and pour this on top of the first when it is set enough 
 to bear it. When cold, cut it up into strips. 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 279 
 
 704. TO CANDY COWSLIPS OR ANY OTHER 
 FLOWERS IN BUNCHES (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Steep gum arabic in water, wet the flowers with 
 it, and shake them in a cloth that they may dry, 
 Then dip them in fine sifted sugar, and hang them 
 on a string across a stove or chimney-piece when 
 there is a fire. They must hang for two or three 
 days, until the flowers are quite dry. 
 
 705. CANDIED FILBERTS (Middlesex) 
 
 Blanch them, and when the skins are removed, let 
 them simmer iu very thin syrup for about an hour : 
 put them to cool, and then set them on the flre again, 
 adding more sugar, so as to thicken the syrup ; 
 simmer for another hour, and then let them cool. 
 Repeat this process a third time, adding more sugar, 
 until the syrup has become so thick as to candy 
 when cold : take out the filberts before the syrup 
 is cold, and cover them well with pounded loaf sugar : 
 then dry in the sun or in a slow oven. The syrup 
 may be used for any other preserve. 
 
 706. HARDBAKE (Surrey) 
 
 Put one pound of Demerara sugar into a saucepan 
 with enough water to make a strong syrup — half 
 a pint more or less. Boil the sugar until it sets when 
 dropped into cold water. Meanwhile have split 
 blanched almonds laid in rows, flat side down, upon 
 a buttered dish. Pour the S3Tup over the almonds, 
 and put the dish in a cool place. When the hard- 
 bake is quite dry and hard, cut it into pieces, and 
 keep it in a dry tin. 
 
280 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 707. LEMON PRALINES (Hampshire) 
 
 Peel some lemons thinly, and cut the peels into 
 small narrow strips about an inch long. Put one 
 pound of powdered loaf sugar to boil in one tea- 
 cupful of water, and when the sugar is dissolved put 
 in a quarter of a pound of butter, beaten to a cream. 
 Keep stirring it over the fire until it will nearly set 
 if dropped upon a dish. At this point put in the 
 lemon strips. Lift the pan from the fire, and stir 
 the lemon strips about till it is nearly cold, with a 
 wooden or silver spoon. Then put them in a sieve 
 to drain. To be kept in a dry tin. Some people 
 add six drops of essence of lemon just before putting 
 in the strips. 
 
 708. LEMON PRAWLONGS (1815) 
 
 Take some lemons and peel the rind oJBE in four 
 quarters ; take all the white off from the inside of 
 the rind ; cut the yellow rind in pieces, about one 
 inch long and about the tenth part of an inch wide. 
 Have a pan of boiling syrup on the fire, and let it 
 boil till it comes almost to caramel ; then put the 
 prawlongs in, and stir them very much with a large 
 wooden spoon, till they are cold ; put them in a large 
 sieve, and shake them just to let the sugar that does 
 not stick to them go through the sieve ; lastly, put 
 them in your box, and keep them in a dry place. 
 
 709. CANDIED LEMON OR ORANGE CHIPS (Kent) 
 
 Cut the fruit in halves : take out all the pulp and 
 juice. Boil the rinds till quite tender, drain them on 
 a cloth, and cut them into chips. Weigh an equal 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 281 
 
 quantity of white sugar, and to every pound of sugar 
 put a pint of water ; set it on the fire, and when 
 it is quite dissolved put on the chips. Boil quickly on 
 a clear fire, about half an hour, or tiU you perceive 
 it begin to candy, then take it off. When quite 
 cool, spread it upon a dish or slab, and continue 
 to move it about during two or three days, so as to 
 separate it. It wiU take a fortnight to dry in the 
 sun, or in a cool oven. When dry enough, put it 
 up in folds of paper. 
 
 710. MARZIPAN (Middlesex) 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of icing sugar with a 
 quarter of a pound of ground almonds. Add in 
 the white of one egg well beaten, and a pinch of salt. 
 Mix this well with a wooden spoon, and if it is too 
 stiff use a little orange-flower water (not more than 
 a teaspoonful) ; but on no account make it too wet. 
 Put it into a basin and let it stand for twenty-four 
 hours. It can then be rolled out about half an inch 
 thick and cut into shapes, or made into smaU balls 
 to imitate fruits, with a strip of angelica as stalk. 
 This is a cheap and wholesome sweet. 
 
 711. MARZIPAN POMME DE TERRE (American) 
 
 Take half a pound of ground almonds, half a 
 pound of icing sugar, one egg, and the yolk of 
 another, chocolate powder, and a few drops of 
 essence of almonds. Proceed as above. 
 
 712. MARZIPAN POTATOES (Hampshire) 
 
 To six ounces of ground almonds, add three- 
 quarters of a pound of sifted icing sugar, twelve 
 
282 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 drops of orange-flower water (or a little brandy), and 
 a few drops of almond essence. Mix to a stiff 
 paste with the beaten white of an egg (sometimes 
 two eggs are needed). Roll the paste into small 
 pieces, potato shapes, and roll them in a mixture of 
 castor sugar and grated chocolate. 
 
 713. NOUGAT (Middlesex) 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, and, having 
 sliced them lengthways, let them lie in the sim for a 
 short time, until they become slightly discoloured. 
 Now dissolve, in an iron stewpan shghtly buttered, 
 twelve ounces of sugar without water, stirring 
 constantly, and when the sugar has melted, and 
 begins to change colour, throw in the almonds, 
 which are previously to be made thoroughly hot, 
 in another vessel, over the fire, but without burning 
 them. Mix them well with the sugar, and, as they 
 mix, range them round the sides of the saucepan, 
 leaving about the same thickness at the bottom as 
 at the sides : now, let the saucepan become a little 
 cool, and turn out the mixture upon a plate : having 
 done this, press the contents well together in the 
 form of a thick cake, and wrap up in writing paper. 
 It should be kept in a dry tin. 
 
 714. ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY (Middlesex) 
 
 Throw some orange flowers into syrup (proportion 
 not stated) when it has boiled about ten minutes ; 
 and after they have simmered in it for five minutes 
 more, pour the whole out, and leave them to infuse 
 until the following day, or even longer if convenient. 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 283 
 
 Then bring the syrup to the boiling point again, 
 strain it from the blossoms through a piece of 
 muslin, and lay it quickly in cakes, with a large 
 spoon, upon thick and very dry sheets of paper or 
 tin. Take the candy off before it is quite cold, and 
 lay it reversed upon dishes. This, kept secure 
 against air, will be excellent for more than a year. 
 
 715. PEPPERMINT CREAMS (Hampshire) 
 
 Take the white of an egg (not beaten), add half 
 its quantity of cold water. Stir well to mix the two 
 together. Put in enough icing sugar to make it 
 stiff enough to handle : mould into any shape 
 desired. Flavour with essence of peppermint. 
 Vanilla creams are prepared the same as above, 
 only with vanilla flavouring instead of peppermint. 
 Shape into balls, and put a piece of dried walnut at 
 top and bottom. 
 
 716. CRYSTALLIZED ROSES OR VIOLETS (Siirrey) 
 
 Select large sweet rose-petals, set them in rows 
 before you on a pasteboard. Have a thoroughly 
 good strong sjrrup boiling, and dip the rose-leaves 
 in, one at a time — let them be thoroughly coated, 
 then set them on a sieve to drain and dry. 
 
 717. SUGAR CANDY (Middlesex) 
 
 Clarify four pounds of lump sugar, which must 
 be allowed to simmer with a little water, over the 
 fire, until by taking up a little on a spoon, and 
 blowing on it, you find it fly off in small flakes : 
 then having skimmed it well, take it off the fire, 
 throw into it a glass of good spirits of wine, and 
 
284 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 pour the whole out mto an earthen dish : cover it 
 over and put it into an oven for eight days, taking 
 care to keep it of an equal temperature : at the 
 end of that time, drain o£E the syrup, and the candy 
 will remain attached to the dish, which must be 
 warmed in order to allow the candy more readily 
 to be detached. 
 
 718. TO KNOW WHEN SUGAR IS AT CANDY 
 
 HEIGHT (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take some sugar and clarify it, keep it boiling 
 till it becomes thick, then stir it with a stick from you, 
 and when it is at candy height, it will fly from your 
 stick like flakes of snow, or feathers flying in the air. 
 And till it comes to that height, it will not fly. 
 Then you may use it as you please. 
 
 719. TO MAKE SUGAR-PLUMS OF ANY SORT (Surrey) 
 
 Take a copper pan which has not only a handle 
 of some sort across the middle, but two side holes 
 or handles. Suspend it from a rack, or otherwise, 
 about four inches above a charcoal brazier or red- 
 hot fire. Put the articles which are to be sugar 
 coated — blanched almonds, nuts, walnuts, or what- 
 ever they are — into the pan with some strong syrup. 
 Shake the pan so that every part of the articles may 
 be covered, and keep on gently agitating it until 
 the sugar has dried on them. Then add more syrup, 
 and agitate till dry ; and so on until the coating is 
 as thick as you desire. The original shape of the 
 articles will in this way be preserved, and they 
 will be covered with any thickness of sugar required. 
 The same applies to any paste of fruit and sugar ; 
 but this must be dry before going into the pan. 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 285 
 
 720. FRUIT PASTES FOR SUGAR PLUMS (Surrey) 
 
 You take the fruit — black currants, damsons, 
 quinces, etc. — whatever it may be, and boil it till 
 it is so soft it can be put through a sieve, all except 
 the skins and stones. Then put the pulp back again 
 in the pan and boil it again till the moisture is 
 evaporated. Then put in three-quarters of a pound 
 of sugar to every pound of pulp, mix it in well, and 
 let it go on boiUng slowly till it becomes a firm, 
 smooth paste. It must be put into pots and well 
 covered with brandied paper and butter paper. 
 
 721. TOFFEE (Kent) 
 
 Take half a pound of coarse sugar, two ounces 
 of butter, one tablespoonful of vinegar, a piece of 
 lemon peel. Boil them together for half an hour. 
 Butter a large dish all over, and pour on thinly. 
 
 722. DEVONSHIRE TOFFEE 
 
 Mix granulated sugar with cream just beginning 
 to " turn," until it assumes the consistency of a 
 very thick batter. Put it into a lined saucepan 
 and keep on stirring until it is smooth and white 
 and thoroughly cooked. Then add a spoonful of 
 jam, raspberry for preference : give it another stir-up, 
 pour it into a buttered tin, and cut it into squares 
 before it has set hard. 
 
 723. EVERTON TOFFEE (Lancashire) 
 
 Take one pound of butter, quarter of a pound of 
 treacle, one pound of sugar (two tablespoonfuls of 
 water to be first put in the pan). AU to be boiled 
 together for three-quarters of an hour. 
 
286 SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 
 
 724. RUSSIAN TOFFEE (Surrey) 
 
 This is much richer and better than ordinary 
 toffee. Take half a pint of thick sour cream (or, 
 if this cannot be had, condensed milk), and stir into 
 it one pound of castor sugar. Boil it slowly over a 
 clear fire till it is all dissolved and begins to thicken. 
 Then add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla essence and 
 one tablespoonful of whisky. Boil it up again until 
 it froths and leaves the sides of the pan clear ; then 
 turn it out on to a buttered dish slab, and when it 
 sets, cut it into squares. If made with condensed 
 milk, one small tin will sufifice for the same amount 
 of sugar ; boil until it hardens when dropped into 
 cold water ; then add one teaspoonful of vanilla 
 essence and the juice of half a lemon, and boil up as 
 mentioned above. 
 
 725. TURKISH DELIGHT (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Soak one ounce of gelatine in half a pint of cold 
 water for two or three hours ; put into a stewpan 
 with two pounds of loai sugar, and when it boils stir 
 for twenty minutes ; take off the fire and add two 
 teaspoonfuls of vanilla essence, and one of lemon 
 essence ; pour into a wet soup plate and let it stand 
 for twenty-four hours, then cut into squares and 
 cover with icing sugar. 
 
 726. TURKISH DELIGHT (Surrey) 
 
 Boil two breakfastcupfuls of water in a lined 
 saucepan, add two ounces of French leaf gelatine, 
 and stir it with a wooden spoon. Add two pounds 
 of loaf sugar, and go on stirring the mixure till it 
 boils : let it boil for twenty minutes, and stir it all 
 
SWEETMEATS AND CANDIES 287 
 
 the time. Then add a small eggcupful of citric 
 acid, and two good tablespoonfuls of rose-water. 
 Wet two china pie-dishes with cold water, and pour 
 half the mixture into one dish (through a strainer) ; 
 put a few drops of cochineal into the other half, and 
 pour into the second dish. Before the mixture cools, 
 add (if liked) a few chopped nuts or almonds. 
 Let it stand twenty-four hours, and then cut it 
 into cubes, rolling it well in smooth sifted icing 
 sugar. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 CAKES 
 
 Note. — Our mothers, grandmothers, and great- 
 grandmothers were what we should consider extra- 
 vagant in the matter of eggs. They used eight 
 where we should hesitate over four. They liked 
 their oakes rich, sweet, and highly flavoured ; and 
 they liked them in great variety and plenty. That 
 happy institution " high tea," previously mentioned, 
 supplied an excellent opportunity for showing 
 what the skilful housewife could turn out in this 
 respect. Moreover, all important occasions — birth, 
 christening, wedding, funeral, re-union of the family 
 (as on Simnel or Mothering Sunday), and a host 
 of other family functions, now only traditional, 
 demanded each its own particular cake. 
 
 Hence it is that not only every coimty has its 
 celebrated specialities, as have also a great many 
 provincial towns, but families innumerable still 
 possess certain favourite cake-recipes, whose sweet- 
 ness custom cannot stale. Among those following 
 will be found the most interesting and dehghtful 
 concoctions ; and especially the reader is desired 
 to note the large number of suggestions regarding 
 ginger-bread and ginger-cake. For cheapness, 
 wholesomeness, and toothsomeness, this nursery 
 
 288 
 
CAKES 289 
 
 desideratum can hardly be bettered. The (salt) 
 Irish potato-cakes are also extremely good. 
 
 The superiority of home-made cakes to " shop 
 'uns " is so self-evident, that no attention need be 
 called to the fact. A hostess, with a reputation for 
 dainty little cakes of private manufacture, has the 
 first claim upon the gratitude of those guests who 
 are weary of being regaled with the stereotyped 
 productions of the local confectioner. Moreover, the 
 saving in cost is enormous, and the doubling in 
 excellence undeniable. The revelations of mar- 
 garine and egg-powder — to say the least of it — 
 which shop cakes afford, may well be abandoned in 
 favour of the very little extra trouble involved in 
 turning out one's own. A good oven is very desir- 
 able — neither spasmodically hot, nor irritatingly 
 slow. But careful attention will obviate many of 
 the faults of a bad one. The baking of a cake is 
 at least as important as the making. 
 
 I have found that good beef-dripping (not bought 
 dripping) is an excellent substitute for butter, and 
 makes a large cake lighter as a rule. It is a good 
 plan to warm the flour slightly first, and to mix 
 your sugar with the flour, before rubbing in the 
 butter or dripping : the work is thus performed 
 much more quickly, because the grittiness of the 
 sugar helps to break up the fat, especially in cold 
 weather. Sour milk or buttermilk is invaluable for 
 mixing cakes, rendering them much lighter. Always 
 beat the mixture with a fork, unless specially other- 
 wise directed. 
 
 Cakes and biscuits, whether stored or in daily use, 
 should be kept in closed tins. 
 
 19 
 
290 CAKES 
 
 727. GENERAL RULES FOR MIXING CAKES 
 (Gloucestershire) 
 
 1. Beat butter to a cream. 
 
 2. Add sugar (castor, granulated, or Demerara). 
 
 3. Add eggs well beaten ; work in one at a time 
 if possible. 
 
 4. Add flour, well sifted, and other ingredients. 
 Lastly, add the baking powder. 
 
 728. BAKING POWDER (Somerset) 
 
 Twelve ounces of ground rice. 
 Six and a half ounces of bicarb, soda. 
 Five and a half ounces of tartaric acid. 
 Get chemist to mix well together. 
 
 729. GOOD BAKING POWDER (Kent) 
 
 Ground rice six ounces. 
 
 Tartaric acid, three ounces. 
 
 Carbonate of soda, five ounces. 
 
 Cream of tartar, three ounces. 
 
 One dessertspoonful to a pound of flour. 
 
 Mix the above ingredients well together, taking 
 care there are no small lumps left in it, and keep 
 it in a glass bottle. 
 
 730. AN EXCELLENT CHOCOLATE FILLING 
 (Hertfordshire) 
 
 This is for putting into cakes. Take one cupful 
 of powdered sugar, four large spoonfuls of grated 
 chocolate, and the whites of two eggs. Whisk the 
 eggs to a stiff froth, then add the sugar, and then 
 the chocolate. A few drops of essence of vanilla is 
 
CAKES 291 
 
 an improvement to the mixture. Beat all together 
 smartly for five or ten minutes. 
 
 731. ICING (Kent) 
 
 Beat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar ; put 
 into a mortar with four tablespoonfuls of rose-water 
 and the whites of two eggs beaten and strained. 
 Whisk it well, and when the cake is nearly cold, 
 dip a feather in the icing, and cover the cake well. 
 Set it in the oven to harden but not discolour. 
 Keep in a dry place. 
 
 732. TO ICE A CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Beat up the whites of five eggs to a froth, and 
 put to them one pound of double-refined sugar, 
 powdered and sifted, and three spoonfuls of orange- 
 flower water and lemon-juice. Keep beating this 
 all the time the cake is in the oven, and the moment 
 it comes out of the oven, ice it over the top with a 
 spoon. Be careful to keep the sugar clean. 
 
 733. ALMOND ICING (Somerset) 
 
 To half a pound of castor sugar, allow six ounces 
 of ground sweet almonds ; mix with one or two 
 yolks of eggs, and a little rose or orange-flower water. 
 
 734. CHOCOLATE ICING (Cheshire) 
 
 Put into a saucepan half a pound of castor sugar, 
 two ounces of grated chocolate, and about a giU of 
 water. Stir it over the fire till the mixture is about 
 as thick as cream, then dip in your almonds, or pour 
 it over your cakes. 
 
292 CAKES 
 
 735. CHOCOLATE ICING (Surrey) 
 
 Half a pound of icing sugar, one white of egg, one 
 heaped up tablespoon of powdered chocolate, a few 
 drops of essence of vanilla. Decorate the cake 
 with blanched sweet almonds, or split walnuts. 
 
 736. ALMOND CAKE (Middlesex) 
 
 Put a quartern of flour upon a pie-board, and 
 make a hole in the middle to receive a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg, a little salt, a quarter of a pound 
 of fine sugar, and half a pound of sweet almonds 
 pounded very fine. Knead the whole, and form it 
 into a cake. When baked, cover it with sugar, 
 and glaze with a salamander. 
 
 737. AMERICAN CAKES (Kent) 
 
 Mix three ounces of cornflour, quarter of a pound 
 of sifted sugar, quarter of a pound of butter, three 
 eggs, one teaspoonful of baking powder, a little 
 citron peel. Bake in patty tins. 
 
 738. AMERICAN CAKE 
 
 One teacupful of currants, same of sultanas, lard 
 or dripping, candied peel, one teacupful of strong 
 coffee (as made for drinking), six teacupfuls of 
 flour, half of golden syrup, a little nutmeg, salt, 
 and one teaspooniiil of carbonate of soda. Mix 
 together lard, treacle, and coffee, all hot in oven, 
 then add currants and peel. Stir the flour in 
 gradually, lastly the soda. Bake in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
CAKES 293 
 
 739. ARBETH CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 HaK a pound of brown sugar, three teaspoonfuls 
 of baking pawder, two of ground ginger, one-third 
 ounce of grated nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of 
 cinnamon, one teaspoonful of caraway seeds, a 
 grated lemon, half a pound of fresh butter, with 
 half a pound of flour, half a pound of raisins, half 
 a pound of currants, one pint of butter-milk, all 
 mixed well together ; this will make a three-pound 
 cake. 
 
 740. AUNT-MARY CAKE (Ireland) 
 
 One and a half pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 butter, one and a half pounds of sultanas, one and a 
 half pounds of currants, one dessertspoonful of 
 bread-soda (bi-carbonate ?), one pint of sour mUk. 
 Rub butter thoroughly into flour and mix all the 
 dry ingredients, putting the bread-soda in last and 
 mixing it well in. Last of all, put the milk. Mix 
 all well, and bake in a greased tin for two and a half 
 to three hours, in a hot oven to start with. When 
 the cake has risen, the heat should be less. 
 
 741. AUSTRIAN CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Six ounces of ground rice, six ounces of sugaj, 
 eight eggs, fifteen drops of essence of almonds, 
 glass of brandy. Mix rice and sugar together ; add 
 yolks of eggs well beaten ; add essence of almonds, 
 stir in stiffly the whites of five eggs, beat twenty 
 minutes and bake in a quick oven an hour. 
 
294 CAKES 
 
 742. BANBURY CAKES (Oxfordshire) 
 Having made some pufE-paste, strew some well- 
 cleaned currants over it, and roll it out to a moderate 
 thickness. Cut it iato round cakes, and bake upon 
 floured tins. When taken out of the oven, strew 
 finely powdered sugar over them, and set them by 
 to cool. 
 
 743. BARM-BBACK (Ireland) 
 
 One and a half pounds of flour, four ounces of 
 butter, sugar to taste, half a breakfastcupful of 
 currants, one dessertspoonful of caraway seeds. 
 Rub the butter well into the flour, then the sugar, 
 currants, and seeds. It must then be wetted with 
 enough buttermilk to drop into shape, and not 
 be in a solid lump. Bake in rather a slow oven 
 for two hours, with paper on the top of shape. 
 (Evidently the yeast or baking powder has been 
 omitted here. By using self-raising flour and 
 buttermilk or sour milk, this may be remedied. Ed.) 
 
 744. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Quarter of a stone of flour, four eggs beaten up 
 separately ; a breakfast-cupful of brown sugar, and 
 the same of barm (yeast) ; one pound of currants, 
 and a glass of spirits. 
 
 745. BORDEAUX CAKES (French) 
 
 Make a paste, with the white of egg well beaten, 
 and powdered lump sugar, to a consistency proper 
 to cut into shapes. Flavour with oil of cinnamon 
 and bake in tins in a slow oven. 
 
CAKES 295 
 
 746. SMALL BRANDY SNAPS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of 
 treacle, a quarter of a pound of Demerara sugar : 
 bring to the boil, add the juice of one lemon and 
 rind, one ounce of ginger, a quarter of a pound of 
 flour. Let the whole be well mixed and kept warm. 
 Drop in teaspoonfuls on a baking sheet, bake in a 
 quick oven, hang on a spoon until crisp. 
 
 747. CARAWAY CAKES (Middlesex) 
 
 Mix a pound of pounded loaf sugar with two 
 pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, and a small 
 handful of caraway seeds : make them into a paste 
 with five eggs well beaten, a little orange- water, and 
 a small glass of ratafia : roll it to the thickness of a 
 crown, cut them into shape, and bake on floured tins 
 in a quick oven. 
 
 748. CHARLIE'S CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 One pound of sifted flour, half a pound each of 
 currants and sultanas, half a pound of salt butter, 
 half a pound of castor sugar, two ounces of grated 
 mixed peel, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
 three eggs, half a pint of milk. A handful of 
 ground almonds is sufficient for two medium-sized 
 cakes. Takes about one hour in moderate oven 
 to cook. 
 
 749. CHERRY CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream 
 with a quarter of a pound of castor sugar ; when 
 
296 CAKES 
 
 perfectly smooth and white, add, one by one, four 
 eggs, beating the mixture well before adding each 
 one ; sprinkle in lastly a quarter of a pound of flour 
 with a teaspoonful of baking powder, and a quarter 
 of a pound of cherries cut in halves. Bake for about 
 one and a quarter hours, and let the oven be rather 
 hot at first. 
 
 750. CHOCOLATE CAKE (Somerset) 
 
 Four oimces of butter, six ounces of sugar, eight 
 ounces of flour, two ounces of ground chocolate, 
 two large eggs or three small ones, half a teacupful 
 of milk, one teaspoonful of baking powder, half a 
 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a few drops of 
 vanilla. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add 
 the eggs well beaten, with a little flour, mix tho- 
 roughly ; dissolve the chocolate in the milk on the 
 fire, add to the other ingredients. Bake one hour, 
 or until quite firm. This cake is much improved 
 if iced with almond or chocolate icing. 
 
 751. CHOCOLATE CAKE (Sussex) 
 
 Quarter of a pound of chocolate powder, quarter 
 of a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 quarter of a pound of butter, one egg. 
 
 Or, another way — One pound of grated chocolate, 
 six ounces of white sugar, three or four pounded 
 almonds ; mix well, add a quarter of a poimd of flour, 
 four whites of eggs, pour in a cake tin and bake till 
 done. 
 
CAKES 297 
 
 752. CHOCOLATE PUFFS (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Take half a pound of sifted sugar, scrape into it 
 one ounce of chocolate very fine, mix them together. 
 Beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, then 
 strew in your sugar and chocolate, keep beating it 
 till it is as stiff as paste : sugar your baking paper, 
 and drop the mixture on in pieces about the size 
 of a sixpence, and bake them in a very slow oven. 
 
 753. CHRISTMAS CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Two pounds of butter, two pounds of sugar, two 
 pounds of flour, two pounds of currants, one and a 
 half poimds of raisins, two pounds of sultanas, haK 
 a pound of peel, half a potmd of ground or chopped 
 almonds, one ounce of baking powder, one teacupful 
 of brandy or maraschino, sixteen eggs. Bake six 
 hours. 
 
 754. CHRISTMAS CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Four pounds of flour, three pounds of currants, 
 two pounds of raisins, two pounds of sugar, six eggs, 
 twelve ounces of butter in a pint of new milk, four 
 oimces of candied lemon, two ounces of candied 
 citron, two ounces of candied orange. Cinnamon 
 and nutmeg to taste : flavour with almonds or an 
 almond flavouring, add rather better than a pint 
 of yeast, and a httle wine or brandy. 
 
 755. CINNAMON BISCUITS (Kent) 
 
 Two pounds of flour, half a poxmd of butter, half 
 a pound of lump sugar, half a pint of milk, a httle 
 volatile salts. Bake on tins in a slow oven. 
 
298 CAKES 
 
 756. COCONUT BISCUITS (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Twelve ounces of flour, four ounces of desiccated 
 coconut, two ounces of lard, two ounces of butter, 
 six ounces of sugar, three teaspoonfuls of baking 
 powder, haK teaspoonful carbonate of soda (in 
 milk), pinch of salt. Make into stiff dough, roll out, 
 and bake. (Should not be allowed to get too dark 
 in colour.) 
 
 757. COOMBER CAKE (Sussex) 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, ditto 
 sugar and currants, three ounces of almonds, three 
 eggs, half a pint of milk. 
 
 758. CORNFLOUR CAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 Six ounces of butter, beaten to a cream ; add two 
 yolks of eggs, then a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 a quarter of a pound of cornflour, one teaspoonful 
 of baking powder, mix all together ; then add the 
 whipped whites of the eggs. Bake in small moulds. 
 
 759. CORNFLOUR CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 Half a pound of cornflour, two ounces of butter, 
 quarter of a pound of castor sugar, one teaspoonful 
 of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of plain flour, 
 two eggs. Beat butter to a cream (must not be 
 oily), add sugar, mix well. Break in eggs one at 
 a time and work well together. Stir in lightly 
 the cornflour, flour, and baking powder ; beat for 
 a few minutes. Pour into a well-greased tin and 
 bake in a moderate oven. Be careful not to open 
 oven for about thirty minutes, or the cake wUl fall 
 in the middle. 
 
CAKES 299 
 
 760. CORNISH HEAVY CAKE (Cornwall) 
 
 About half a pound of flour, four ounces of fat 
 (two ounces of butter, two ounces of lard), four 
 ounces of chopped raisins, four ounces of currants 
 or sultanas, half an ounce of nutmeg, half a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed spice, two ounces of lemon peel, 
 three ounces of castor sugar, two eggs, salt. Mix 
 all well together, making it pretty stiff ; can be 
 moistened with miUs, if necessary. Roll out to about 
 one or one and a half inches in thickness, put on a 
 greased flat tin, bake in moderate oven for about 
 half an hour. 
 
 761. CRACKNELS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take half a pound of fine flour, haK a pound of 
 sugar, two ounces of butter, two eggs, and a few 
 caraway seeds. You must beat and sift the sugar, 
 and put it to your flour and work it to paste. Roll 
 this as thin as you can, and cut out the cracknels 
 with queen-cake tins. Lay them on paper and bake 
 them in a slow oven. They are proper to eat with 
 chocolate. 
 
 762. CUP CAKE (Kent) 
 
 One cup of butter, one cup of sugar, three cups of 
 flour, four eggs, one cup of milk, two teaspoonfuls 
 of baking powder, two cups of sultanas. (Presum- 
 ably breakfast-cups. Ed.) 
 
 763. ISLE OF WIGHT DOUGHNUTS 
 (Farmhouse recipe) 
 
 One gaUon of flour, one pound of butter rubbed 
 well into it : pour in one teacupful of good ale yeast 
 
300 CAKES 
 
 (not bitter), and put it to rise ; mix and knead it as 
 you would bread, and add in six well-beaten eggs, 
 three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, one grated 
 nutmeg, and a little warm milk. The dough must 
 not be mixed too soft at first, or it wiU be too soft 
 to roU up subsequently. Leave it again by the 
 fire to rise for an hour or two. Then take out small 
 lumps of dough, the size of a smalhsh orange, insert 
 into the centre of each a piece of candied peel and 
 some currants (some grated lemon-rind also is a 
 great improvement) ; roll it up securely. Have ready 
 a deep pan of quite boiling lard, and be sure that it 
 is quite boiling when the doughnuts are put in : 
 let them be completely covered with the lard, and 
 boil fifteen minutes over a slow fire. Take out, set 
 to drain on paper, and let them get cool gradually 
 and not stand in a draught. Dust over with sifted 
 sugar. These are first-rate. 
 
 764. AMERICAN DOUGHNUTS 
 
 One cupful of self-raising flour, haii a cupful of 
 sugar, half a nutmeg. Mix together with mUk, roll 
 out on a board, cut with a sharp, round cutter. 
 Make a hole in the centre about the size of a shilling, 
 and fry in boiling laard. When a nice golden brown 
 one side, turn and fry the other. Serve immediately. 
 
 765. DURHAM YULE CAKE 
 
 Take one and a quarter pounds of dough, work 
 into it a quarter of a pound each of butter, sugar, 
 sultanas, and currants, one small teaspoonful of 
 allspice, a quarter of a pound of candied citron, a 
 quarter of a pound of lemon peel (cut into thin 
 
CAKES 301 
 
 slices). Melt the butter and beat it up with a knife 
 before putting it in. The cake should be rolled out 
 about one and a half inches thick, marked with a 
 knife at the top into small squares, and brushed 
 over with white of egg. 
 
 766. ECCLES CAKES (Cumberland) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of currants, which should be 
 well washed, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a 
 little nutmeg, and a little rum, well mixed. Rub 
 a pound of butter into a pound of flour, roll out 
 about half an inch thick, cut into squares about 
 three inches across, then put some of the currant 
 mixture in the centre of each square. Wet the edges 
 and join the four comers of each square in the 
 centre ; turn over and roll lightly with the rolling 
 pin, to make a round cake. Bake in a hot oven, 
 not too hot. 
 
 767. ETHEL'S CAKES (Susi3ex) 
 
 Two eggs, their weight in flour and sugar, one 
 teaspoonful baking powder. Beat the sugar and 
 eggs till creamy and frothy ; when bubbling all over, 
 add flour and baking powder and turn into greased 
 tins, and bake in a very hot oven ; when firm on 
 top, they are ready. Scoop out the inside and put 
 in whipped cream, and place one on another with 
 chocolate icing. 
 
 768. DELICIOUS FINGER CAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Mix two tablespoonf uls of cornflour into one pound 
 of powdered sugar, and stir them gradually into 
 
302 CAKES 
 
 the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs. Bake on 
 buttered tins in a moderate oven untU very delicately 
 brown. For chocolate fingers, add two tablespoon- 
 f uls of finely grated chocolate to two tablespoonfuls 
 of corn starch, and one pound of powdered sugar, 
 and stir gradually into two beaten eggs. For coco- 
 nut fingers add four tablespoonfuls of grated coco- 
 nut. 
 
 769. FLEED CAKES (Kent) 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of fleed, quarter 
 of a pound of good butter. Rub the fleed and 
 butter into the flour and roll well. 
 
 Fleed cakes (says the sender of this recipe) were 
 usually seen on every tea-table in Kent when I was 
 a girl. Very rich these homemade cakes were. I 
 never see or taste such fleed cakes nowadays, puffed 
 up in dehcate flakes ! In winter we had another tea- 
 cake, made simply of flour and suet cut into the 
 shape of a diamond. They were served hot from 
 a Dutch oven placed in front of the fire. We know 
 an old " woman of Kent " who has her own recipe 
 for fleed cakes. Instead of pig's fleed, she uses 
 rabbit's fleed. Her hobby is to keep pet rabbits, 
 feed them well and keep them happy, when they 
 will grow fat. Then kill them, skin them, cut 
 them open and take out all the inside fat, or f^eed, 
 cook the rabbit as you like it for your dinner, but 
 make delicious cakes for your tea with the fleed. 
 Bake the cakes in an old-fashioned Dutch oven 
 in front of the fire. 
 
CAKES 303 
 
 770. GALETTE (French) 
 
 Take equal quantities of butter and flour, a little 
 salt, and two eggs (in the commoner sorts of galette, 
 however, no eggs are used, the ingredients are merely 
 flour, buttej, and salt), knead the whole together into 
 a paste, roll it as thin as a crown-piece (here we must 
 beg to observe that the Paris galette is usually rolled 
 to twice the thickness of a crown-piece), and make 
 it the size of a dessert plate (or much larger) ; mark 
 it with a knife so as to form diamonds ; put it into 
 the oven for a quarter of an hour, take it out, beat 
 up two eggs with a little cream and some salt, pour 
 it over the cake, and return it to the oven to bake 
 for another quarter of an hour. 
 
 771. GATEAU A LA MOCHA (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Beat up the yolks of four eggs, with a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered loaf sugar, add gradually two 
 ounces of flour, two ounces of potato flour, lastly 
 the whites of four eggs, whipped to a stiff froth. 
 When the whole is well mixed, put it in a buttered 
 plain mould and bake ; turn out the cake when done, 
 and when it is quite cold, cover it all over with the 
 following icing, ornamenting it with piping of the 
 icing squeezed through a small rose pipe. When 
 the cake is flnished it should be put in a cold place 
 on ice till wanted. For the icing, take half a 
 pound of fresh butter, and beat it into a cream in 
 a bowl, adding drop by drop during the process half 
 a teacupful of the strongest coffee that can be made. 
 
304 CAKES 
 
 772. GERMAN GAIIFRES 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, and cut them 
 into small thin chips, put them in a vessel with three- 
 quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and a small 
 quantity of candied orange-flowers : mix these 
 ingredients well up with whites of eggs, beaten with 
 a Httle good cream, and bake them in shapes. Serve 
 hot, with sugar strewed over them. 
 
 773. ITALIAN GAIIPRES 
 
 Beat well together eight eggs, a pound of loaf 
 sugar finely pounded, six ounces of cream, as much 
 milk, a little orange-flowers, and the rind of a lemon 
 grated ; mix the whole well together, taking care 
 that the batter is not lumpy ; bake in gaufre irons, 
 as for ordinary gaufres. 
 
 774. HARD GINGERBREADS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 A cupful of treacle, a tablespoonful of butter, a 
 tablespoonful of cold water, a teaspoonful of ginger, 
 a teaspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda, and enough 
 flour to make a dough ; bake in a brisk oven. 
 
 775. GINGERBREAD (Kent) 
 
 I 
 
 One pound of flour, one pound of moist sugar, 
 a few cloves pounded, one pound of treacle, one 
 ounce of butter, a little ginger. 
 
 II 
 
 One pound of treacle, two pounds of flour, one 
 and a half ounces of ginger, one pound of sugar, 
 
CAKES 305 
 
 three and a quarter pounds of butter. The treacle 
 and sugar to be dissolved and poured over the other 
 mgredients. 
 
 in 
 
 One pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of 
 treacle, four ounces of butter, six ounces of brown 
 sugar, one ounce prepared ginger, the peel of one 
 lemon chopped fine. Mix them well together, and 
 bake them in a slow oven. One egg is an improve- 
 ment. 
 
 776. GINGERBREAD CAKE (Lancashire) 
 
 One and a half pounds of flour, one and a quarter 
 pounds of treacle, one ounce of ginger (ground 
 freshly), six ounces of butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 brown sugar, a lemon or Seville orange (both peel 
 and juice), three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 Melt the butter in the treacle, add a little warm 
 milk, and pour into the dry ingredients. Mixture 
 must be rather soft. Bake four hours in a slow oven. 
 This is an old and excellent recipe. 
 
 777. GINGERBREAD (Middlesex) 
 
 Three pounds of treacle are to be mixed with 
 three pounds and a half of good flour, a pound of 
 fresh butter, and a pound of brown sugar, five 
 ounces of caraway seeds, six ounces of candied 
 orange and lemon peel, cut very small, a quarter 
 of a pound of powdered ginger, five eggs, and 
 rather more than haK an otince of pearl-ashes : the 
 butter is mixed with the other ingredients by being 
 beaten to a cream. The mixture must stand for 
 20 
 
306 CAKES 
 
 twenty-four hours, and on the following day is to 
 be worked up like bread, and baked into a cake, 
 of about an inch thick, in a slow oven. The same 
 mixture, made more liquid, and without the pearl- 
 ashes, the butter being melted instead of beaten, 
 dropped with a spoon upon a buttered tin, makes 
 gingerbread nuts ; but it is usual to put a larger 
 quantity of ginger. Gingerbread nuts are also made 
 by rubbing up a pound of butter with two pounds of 
 flour, a pound of brown sugar, and rather more 
 than an ounce of powdered ginger. These are 
 mixed together with as much treacle as will form 
 them into the consistency of dough : it is then made 
 into the form of nuts, and baked upon tins. In order 
 to make them richer, a little powdered allspice 
 and powdered cinnamon may be added. Nutmeg 
 and crushed or powdered almonds may be added 
 either to gingerbread or gingerbread nuts. 
 
 778. GINGEEBREAD (Yorkshire) 
 
 Two poimds of flour, one pound of treacle, one 
 pound of sugar, twelve ounces of butter, with a httle 
 lemon-peel and ginger to taste. For rolled ginger- 
 bread, it must be made the night before. 
 
 779. TRANSPARENT GINGERBREAD (Lancashire) 
 
 To ten ounces of flour take twelve ounces of 
 butter, one pound of treacle, and one pound of sugar. 
 Melt the butter and mix well with the treacle and 
 sugar ; put in the flour, and about a quarter of an 
 ounce of cinnamon and mace, with a little lemon 
 peel grated or shredded very fine. Beat all well to- 
 gether, drop it very thin and bake in a moderate 
 
CAKES 307 
 
 oven. Cut it out in squares and just turn it round 
 the finger, and put it in a canister. Take it out 
 only as it is wanted for use, or it will turn soft. 
 (This is equivalent to Ormskirk gingerbread, a well- 
 known Lancashire dainty. But the ginger has been 
 omitted. It would be as well to add about half 
 an ounce of ground ginger. Ed.) 
 
 780. GINGER-CAKE (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Mix into one pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, one 
 penny packet of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of 
 powdered ginger. Beat up and add two eggs, and 
 a full half-pound of thick treacle — not golden syrup, 
 but the old-fashioned treacle sold at oil-shops. 
 You may need to thin the treacle with a little milk, 
 before you can work it in. Beat all well together, 
 and bake for two hours in a slow oven. 
 
 781. GINGER CAKES (Kent) 
 
 One pound of flour, six ounces of sugar, one egg, 
 six ounces of butter, half an ounce of best ground 
 ginger, one glass of brandy, four drops of oil of 
 
 cassia. 
 
 782. GINGER CAKE (Lancashire) 
 
 Half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, 
 two ounces of ground ginger, one dessertspoonful of 
 baking powder, one pound of syrup, a little salt, a 
 gill of milk, four eggs, the rind of two lemons. Stir 
 into this mixture as much flour as will give it the con- 
 sistency of very thick batter. Put it into a buttered 
 tin and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
308 CAKES 
 
 783. SHEET GINGER CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of treacle or 
 golden syrup, half a pound of butter, half a pound 
 of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger, one tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, three eggs ; warm 
 the butter, sugar, and treacle in a stewpan, then 
 add the eggs beaten, ginger, and soda ; stir in the 
 flour. Not to be baked hard. 
 
 784. WHOLEMEAL GINGERBREAD CAKE (Surrey) 
 
 One pound of wholemeal or entire wheat flour, 
 one pound of coarse oatmeal, one pound of golden 
 syrup, quarter of a pound of butter, six ounces of 
 moist sugar, half a pint of milk, three large tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder or yeast powder. Put 
 the milk and golden syrup together into the oven 
 to warm, rub the butter into the meal in a dry 
 state, and all the other dry ingredients, then pour 
 in the warmed sjrrup and milk, mixing lightly with 
 a wooden spoon. Turn into two well-buttered 
 baking-tins, place immediately in a very slow oven. 
 Bake very slowly for two hours, or longer iE 
 necessary. 
 
 785. MRS. GURNEY'S GINGER SNAPS (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Take a cupful of sugar, one of golden syrup, one 
 of melted butter (or butter and a little lard), two 
 teaspoonfuls of ground ginger, one of carbonate of 
 soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of hot water. 
 Just work in as much flour as will make a very stiff 
 dough. Roll on a floured board as thin as possible, 
 and cut into small rounds. Bake on a flat oven 
 plate in a moderate oven. 
 
CAKES 309 
 
 786. GINGERBREAD NUTS (Kent) 
 
 One and three-quarter pounds of flour, one and 
 a half pounds of treacle, one pound of sugar, one 
 ounce of ginger, half an ounce of allspice, quarter 
 of a pound of butter, quarter of a pound of lard. 
 The sugar to be rubbed in first, every lump broken, 
 then the lard and butter, then the spice, which 
 must be very fine. 
 
 787. PINE SWEET GINGERBREAD NUTS (1815) 
 
 Take two pounds of the best treacle, and put it 
 in a large basin ; then take haK a pound of the best 
 fresh butter, and carefuUy melt it, not to oil ; pour 
 the butter to the treacle, and stir it well as you pour 
 it in ; add three-quarters of an ounce of the best 
 pounded ginger, and put it with two ounces of 
 preserved lemon and orange peel cut very small, 
 two ounces of preserved angelica cut very small, 
 one ounce of coriander seed poimded, one ounce 
 and a half of caraway seeds whole ; mix them well 
 together ; then break two eggs, yolks and whites 
 together, and mix as much flour as will bring it to 
 a fine paste ; make them the size you choose, put 
 them on a tin plate, and let your oven be rather 
 brisk. 
 
 788. GIRDLE CAKE (Lancashire) 
 
 Rub six ounces of sugar into two pounds of flour : 
 add a little salt, make it into a paste with some 
 good milk or buttermilk : roll it out, cut into shapes, 
 and bake on a girdle (sometimes known as 
 griddle. Ed.). 
 
310 CAKES 
 
 789. GIRDLE CAKE (Kent) 
 
 Sift together one pound of flour and two full tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder, then crumble into this 
 three ounces of butter with the tips of the fingers 
 as lightly as possible tiU it is all fine like bread 
 crumbs. Next work in by degrees half a pint of 
 milk tiU it forms a firm dough ; halve this dough 
 and knead each piece into a flat cake. 
 
 790. GOLD CAKE (American) 
 
 Half a cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, 
 two and a half cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of 
 milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of 
 cream of tartar, the yolks of six eggs, one tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla. Frost with yellow frost. The 
 yellow frost is made with the yolk of one egg to nine 
 lumps of sugar and flavoured with vanilla. 
 
 791. HONEY CAKES (Middlesex) 
 
 To two pounds and a half of dried flour, add a 
 pound of honey, three-quarters of a pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar, half a pound of citron, and the same 
 quantity of orange peel ; cut into thin strips, add 
 half an ounce each of ginger and cinnamon, pounded ; 
 melt the sugar with the honey, and mix in the other 
 ingredients ; roll out the paste, cut into forms, and 
 bake on floured tins. 
 
 792. COMMON JOHNNY CAKE (Ireland) 
 
 Into one quart of meal stir one pint of boiling 
 water, with salt ; spread it on a board an inch thick, 
 and bake it before the fire, or on an iron over the 
 fire. 
 
CAKES 311 
 
 793. JOHNNY CAKE (Lancashire) 
 
 One teacupful of fine sugar, two teacupfuls of 
 flour, one teacupful of semolina, two ounces of 
 butter or lard, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 Mix with milk rather dry. Bake in moderate oven 
 for about twenty minutes. 
 
 794. JOHNNY CAKE (Surrey) 
 
 To one quart of milk add three eggs, one tea^ 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, one teacupful of 
 wheaten flour, mixed with enough Indian meal to 
 form a thickish batter. Bake very quickly and eat 
 hot, with golden syrup or butter. 
 
 796. JUDGES' BISCUITS (1815) 
 
 Take six eggs and break them into a copper pan, 
 yolks and whites together ; whisk them well for 
 about five minutes ; mix half a pound of powdered 
 sugar with the eggs, and whisk them for ten minutes ; 
 put as many caraway seeds as you think proper, 
 and half a pound of sifted flour ; mix it well with a 
 wooden spoon, and put three papers on your plates ; 
 then take a spoon and drop them on papers about 
 the size of a crown-piece, sift some powdered sugar 
 over them ; let them be rather thick in the middle, 
 and the oven rather sharp, and when they come out, 
 cut them off the paper while hot. (Rice paper is 
 advisable here. Ed.) 
 
 796. JUMBLES (Middlesex) 
 
 Well beat the whites of three eggs and remove the 
 froth. Then take about one tablespoonful each of 
 
312 CAKES 
 
 flour, sifted sugar, and milk. Add a very few cara- 
 way seeds ; a little ginger may be added at pleasure. 
 Mix all together into a very stiff paste, and roll it 
 flat. Cut it out into various shapes, and bake on a 
 sheet of white paper. 
 
 797. KENTISH CAKES 
 
 Rub four ounces of butter into three-quarters of 
 a pound of flour ; add some caraway seeds, and 
 half a pound of loaf sugar finely pounded ; mix 
 these into a stiff paste with a little water, roll out 
 to the thickness of a crown piece, cut them out with a 
 glass, or into squares, prick them, and bake on 
 floured tins. 
 
 798. KING CAKES (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound 
 of butter, half a pound of sugar, and half a pound of 
 currants, well cleaned. Rub your butter well into 
 your flour, and put in as many yolks of eggs as will 
 make it supple ; then put in your sugar, currants, 
 and some mace, as much as will give them a taste. 
 So make them up in little round cakes, and butter 
 the papers you lay them on. 
 
 799. KRINGLES (Kent) 
 
 Beat well the yolks of eight and the whites of two 
 eggs, and mix with four ounces of butter just 
 warmed, and with this knead a pound of flour and 
 four ounces of sugar to a paste. Roll into thick 
 or thin biscuits, prick them, and bake on tin plates. 
 
CAKES 313 
 
 800. LANCASHIRE CAKE 
 
 Beat well the yolks of twelve and the whites of 
 seven eggs for half an hour, add a pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar, half a pound of flour, and the peel of a 
 lemon grated ; beat all well together and bake in a 
 floured tin. 
 
 801. LEMON CAKES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Sift four ounces of castor sugar and beat it into the 
 grated rind of two lemons ; whip the whites of three 
 eggs to a firm froth, and add it gradually to the sugar 
 and lemon ; beat all together for half an hour. Make 
 this mixture up in pyramid shapes, and place on 
 rounds of short crust. Set in a moderate oven, and 
 bake for six or eight minutes. 
 
 802. LIGHT CAKE (Welsh) 
 
 Put one pint of buttermilk (two days old) into a 
 basin. Drop into it one egg unbeaten ; add seven 
 or eight tablespoonfuls of flour to make it into the 
 consistency of thick batter, and one teaspoonfiil of 
 salt. Beat together very well until light. Then 
 put one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and the 
 same of granulated sugar, into a cup with half a 
 teacupftd of buttermilk. Mix well, and add to the 
 other batter. Beat all together thoroughly well. 
 Take a small frying-pan, and rub it with a piece of 
 bacon-rind when it has been made very hot. Pour 
 in two tablespoonfuls of the batter, and fry. Turn 
 the cake over with an egg-shoe to brown the other 
 side. Serve very hot, with butter. 
 
314 CAKES 
 
 803. LUNCH CAKE (Kent) 
 
 Half a pound of flour, three ounces of sugar, two 
 ounces of butter, one egg, one teaspoonful of baking 
 powder, one teacupf ul of warm milk ; caraway seeds, 
 currants, or raisins to taste. 
 
 804. LUNCHEON CAKE (Westmorland) 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, six 
 ounces stoned and chopped raisins, and candied 
 peel, caraway seeds to taste, half a pound of moist 
 sugar, three eggs, teacupful of milk (boiling), one 
 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Pour the boiling 
 milk on to soda in a small basin, stir occasionally 
 till cold. Put dry ingredients into large basin, then 
 mix and add milk and eggs. Beat all with a wooden 
 spoon for twenty minutes. Bake one and a half 
 hours in a moderate oven. (Excellent cake.) 
 
 805. MACAROONS (Middlesex) 
 
 Take haK a pound of blanched sweet almonds, and 
 a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds ; beat 
 them each very smooth, and mix them together ; if 
 prepared the day before, it will be the better. Next 
 take a large teaspoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, 
 mace, and cinnamon, which must be weU pounded 
 and sifted; beat the whites of three eggs till they 
 stand alone ; add to them gradually, twenty-four 
 large teaspoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time ; beat it very hard, and put in 
 by degrees the spice and a tablespoonful of rose- 
 water, after which stir in gradually the almonds. 
 Should the almonds not prove sufiicient to make the 
 
CAKES 315 
 
 paste as thick as a good soft dough, prepare a few 
 more, and stir them in. When all is well mixed, 
 put some flour in the palm of your hand, and taking 
 up a lump of the paste with the point of a knife, roll 
 it with the flour into a small ball : have ready an 
 iron or a tin pan, and lay the balls in it as they are 
 made up, placing them about two inches apart, and 
 then bake them for about eight or ten minutes in a 
 moderately heated oven, mxtil they become of a 
 pale brown colour. The top of the oven should be 
 hotter than the bottom, so that they may crack on 
 the surface. 
 
 806. MADELEINE CAKE (Staffordshire) 
 
 One ounce of butter, one ounce of castor sugar, one 
 egg, quarter of a pound of self-raising flour, and 
 about two tablespoonfuls of milk. WeU beat the 
 egg, then add the sugar, the butter (which must be 
 creamed), and beat aU weU again. Then add the 
 flour and milk, making the mixture moderately stiff. 
 Butter a medium-sized Yorkshire puddiag-tin, put 
 in the cake and bake a nice brown. Turn it out of 
 the tin, and when it is cooled a httle, cut it in two, 
 spread jam on the one half and put the other over it. 
 Cut into finger-pieces and pile in a glass dish. 
 
 807. MADEIRA CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound each of butter and castor 
 sugar, half a pound of flour (sifted), three eggs. 
 Work in one at a time. One teaspoonful of baking 
 powder, one tablespoonful of milk. Place a slice of 
 citron on top when mixture has been put in cake 
 
316 CAKES 
 
 tin lined with greased paper. Bake in moderate 
 oven about three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 808. MADEIKA CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Six ounces of butter, six ounces of castor sugar, 
 six eggs, twelve ounces of flour, a little grated nut- 
 meg, citron. Slightly warm butter and beat it to 
 a cream ; add the sugar and beat five minutes ; 
 add the eggs one at a time and then the flour ; mix 
 gently and then pour into a Uned cake tin ; put 
 citron on top. Bake for hour and half. 
 
 809. MAIDS OF HONOUR (Surrey) 
 
 Eight teaspoonfuls of sifted sugar, one egg, two 
 ounces of ground almonds, a pinch of baking powder. 
 The sugar and egg to be beaten well together, then 
 the almonds stirred in. Put the baking powder last. 
 Have some patty-pans lined with puff-paste, lay a 
 little raspberry jam at the bottom of each, and cover 
 with a teaspoonful of the mixture. Bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 810. MERINGUES (Middlesex) 
 
 Whisk to a froth the whites of twelve eggs, and 
 when it is well raised, add some powdered sugar and 
 grated lemon-peel. Continue whisking hghtly to mix 
 those ingredients, but without melting the sugar ; put 
 the meringues in httle portions about the size of half 
 an egg upon a sheet of white paper, and place them 
 under a cover that will contain hot ashes on the top ; 
 when they are done on the outside, and of a good 
 colour, remove them from the paper, take out the 
 
CAKES 317 
 
 part of the inside which is not done, and supply its 
 place with sweetmeat ; join the two sides of them 
 well together again, and serve as dry as possible. 
 
 811. BAG CAKE (Ireland) 
 
 Take three breakfastcupfuls of sugar, two of flour, 
 and one of sour cream or milk. Take four eggs, 
 and weU beat the yolks and whites separately. 
 Cream the butter and sugar, and beat them up 
 again with the beaten yolks of eggs. Add one table- 
 spoonful cream of tartar to the flour, one teaspoonf ul 
 bi-carbonate of soda to the cream, and add these 
 to the eggs and sugar. Put the whites of the eggs 
 in last. Bake in a tin, and ice at pleasure. 
 
 812. RATAFIA PUFFS (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take haK a pound of bitter almonds, beaten very 
 stiff, and one and a half pounds of sifted sugar. 
 Make it up to a stiff paste with white of egg whipped 
 to a froth. Beat it well in a mortar, and make it up 
 into little round loaves. Bake them in a very cool 
 oven, on paper and tin plates. 
 
 813. GROUND RICE BISCUITS (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Three ounces of butter, three ounces of white 
 sugar, six ounces ground rice, three ounces of flour, 
 half a teaspoonful of baking powder, one egg (beaten), 
 a little milk, grated lemon rind. Cream the butter 
 and sugar, then add the egg and dry ingredients. 
 The mixture should be like pastry ; turn on to a 
 floured board, roll lightly (as it will stick), and cut 
 into biscuits about a quarter of an inch thick. Place 
 
31 g Cakes 
 
 on a greased tin ; bake in a moderate oven to a 
 golden brown. 
 
 814. RHODA'S RICE BUNS (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Three-quarters of a pound of flour, quarter of a 
 pound of ground rice, six ounces of butter and lard, 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugar, two teaspoonfuls 
 of baking-powder, six eggs, and a Uttle milk. Mix 
 well. These take from ten to fifteen minutes to 
 cook in moderate oven. 
 
 815. RICE CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Two eggs beaten well for a quarter of an hour ; 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, put to the eggs and 
 beaten ten miautes ; quarter of a pound of rice, put 
 to the eggs and sugar, and beaten five minutes. 
 Butter a tin or mould and bake three-quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 816. RICE CAKES (Kent, 1809) 
 
 A quartelr of a pound of ground rice, the same of 
 flour, one pound of white sugar, sifted, a quarter 
 of a pound of melted butter, four eggs, leaving out 
 two whites. The rice, flour, and sugar to be mixed 
 together, the eggs and butter to be added when the 
 batter is nearly cold. If you choose currants, put 
 a quarter of a pound. 
 
 817. RICE CAKE (Middlesex) 
 
 Whisk separately for an hour the yolks of eight 
 and the whites of six eggs ; add to them half a 
 pound of rice flour, three-quarters of a pound of 
 
CAKES 319 
 
 finely powdered loaf sugar, and the peel of a lemon 
 grated : beat one pound of butter into cream, and 
 mix the above ingredients well with it ; bake in a 
 buttered tin in moderate oven. 
 
 818. RICHMOND CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Six ounces of butter, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mixed spice, the same of ground ginger ; mix till 
 they are a cream ; add a quarter of a pound of 
 brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of treacle ; mix 
 all together with half a pound of flour, two oimces 
 of ground rice, two tablespoonfuls of dried coco- 
 nut, four eggs, half an ounce of baking powder. 
 
 819. RICH CAKE (Hampshire) 
 
 Nine ounces of currants, four and a half ounces of 
 raisins chopped, four and a half ounces of butter, 
 four and a haH ounces of flour, four and a half oimces 
 of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of mace pounded, two and a quarter 
 ounces of citron, three eggs. Bake two and a half 
 hours. This is very good. If the cake be iced, 
 remember to beat the white of an egg to a soHd 
 frQth before adding the pounded white icing sugar, 
 and place it on the cake directly it is drawn from 
 the oven. 
 
 820. RICH PLUM CAKE (Devonshire) 
 
 Eight ounces of fresh butter, eight ounces of 
 castor sugar, eight ounces of mixed peel, eight 
 ounces of dried cherries, three-quarters of a pound 
 of flour, half a pound of sultanas, four oimces of 
 
320 CAKES 
 
 almonds, a quarter of a pint of brandy, five eggs, 
 half an ounce of allspice, half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 Cream the butter and sugar. Sift in flour and salt ; 
 gradually add eggs one at a time and beat in well. 
 Chop the cherries, the peel, and the almonds ; add 
 these with the sultanas and allspice ; mix aU well 
 together. Add the brandy last, a httle at a time. 
 Be sure all is thoroughly mixed. Line a cake tin, 
 putting three rounds of paper at the bottom. Bake 
 three hours in a moderate oven. Don't let the 
 heat rise after the cake has gone in. 
 
 821. ROUT CAKES (Middlesex) 
 
 Rub into two pounds of flour an ounce of fresh 
 butter, washed in orange-flower water ; then add 
 half a pound of well beaten loaf sugar, the same 
 weight of candied orange and lemon cut into strips, 
 and a quarter of a pound of well-dried currants ; 
 mix all these ingredients well together with five 
 eggs, well beaten, and half a glass of brandy or 
 ratafia, or a httle of both ; drop this paste in smaU 
 rough knobs upon floured tins, and bake in a quick 
 oven ; they will require but a very short time to 
 bake, as they must not be high-coloured. 
 
 822. OAT-CAKES (Scotland) 
 
 Mix into one and three-quarter pounds of medium 
 Scotch oatmeal, one teaspoonful of carbonate of 
 soda and two teaspoonfuls of salt. Then rub in 
 three or four ounces of lard or dripping, and 
 add enough hot water to mix into a dough. It 
 must not be too dry, and must not cool off, but 
 should be done very quickly. Dust some fine 
 
CAKES 321 
 
 oatmeal over the board, roll the dough out as thin 
 as it will stand, and cut it into round or triangular 
 shapes, and bake it in a quick oven. If you try to 
 get the rolled dough too thin, it will break. 
 
 823. OATMEAL CAKES (Lancashire) 
 
 Six ounces of oatmeal, five ounces of flour, three 
 ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one 
 ounce of sifted sugar, one egg, one tablespoonful of 
 baking powder. Mix the dry ingredients, rub in 
 the butter, mix up with the egg and milk. Boll it 
 out like pastry, cut it with a round cutter. Bake 
 these biscuits for about ten minutes. 
 
 824. ORANGE CAKE (Somerset) 
 Six ounces of flour, six ounces of castor sugar, 
 two and a quarter ounces of butter, one small tea- 
 spoonful of baking powder, the rind of two oranges 
 grated, and sufficient juice to make it soft, two eggs. 
 Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs 
 one at a time, with a little flour ; beat well, then add 
 the rind, flour, and baking powder, all mixed to- 
 gether by degrees. Bake one hour. Make an 
 icing with six ounces of icing sugar, and the juice of 
 haK an orange ; spread it over the cake when cool. 
 
 825. OSWEGO CAKES (Kent) 
 One pound of oswego or cornflour, quarter of a 
 pound of butter, quarter of a pound of fine white 
 sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, quarter 
 of a pound of currants, two eggs (yolks and whites 
 beaten separately for quarter of an hour). Mix aU 
 together, beat well for a quarter of an hour before 
 pouring into a buttered shape. Bake a nice brown. 
 21 
 
322 CAKES 
 
 826. PAISLEY CIRCLES (Kent) 
 
 Three-quarters of an ounce of Paisley flour, six 
 ounces of ordinary flour, one ounce of butter, one 
 ounce of castor sugar, one egg, a little milk. Put 
 the flour in a basin and rub the butter in lightly ; 
 add sugar and Paisley flour. Mix well. Beat up 
 egg and add, with enough milk to make a rather 
 stiff dough. Roll out rather less than a quarter 
 of an inch thick. Cut into rounds with cutter 
 two and a half inches in diameter, then cut out 
 centre with a small cutter. Fry the circles in smoking 
 hot fat (a few at a time). They will drop to the 
 bottom of the pan. Do not try to lift them, they 
 wiU rise of themselves. Directly they rise turn 
 over if nicely browned and cook the other side. 
 They wiU not take more than a few minutes. Drain 
 on paper, let get cold. Split open circles carefully. 
 Spread with preserve or lemon curd. Lay one half 
 over the other and dust with castor sugar. 
 
 827. PARKINS (Derbyshire) 
 
 One pound of, fine porridge oatmeal, hali a pound 
 of butter or beef dripping, six ounces of brown sugar, 
 almonds (a few), half an ounce of ground ginger, 
 nine ounces treacle, pinch of salt. Mix all dry 
 ingredients well together, rub butter into meal, 
 add treacle last and make stiff enough to roll out, 
 half an inch thick, on a floured pasteboard. Cut 
 out in rounds, place half almond in centre of each. 
 Place immediately in slow oven, to cook half to 
 three-quarters of an hour. 
 
CAKES 323 
 
 828. PARKIN (Lancashire) 
 
 Four pounds of oatmeal, four pounds of treacle, 
 half a pound of butter, ginger and candied lemon 
 according to taste. 
 
 829. PARKIN (Shropshire) 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh lard into two pounds of fine 
 oatmeal. Add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, 
 half an ounce of ground ginger, and a little candied 
 lemon peel. Stir half a breakfastcupful of hot milk 
 into one and three-quarter pints of good treacle, 
 and heat this a little, so that it may mix easily 
 with the meal. Beat all together and bake in a 
 slow oven. To be kept in a closely covered tin box. 
 
 830. YORKSHIRE PARKIN 
 
 Half a pound of flour, half a pound of fine oatmeal, 
 two ounces of lard, two ounces of butter, half a 
 pound of treacle, two ounces of sugar, one teaspoon- 
 ful of ground ginger, one teaspoonful mixed spice, 
 one teaspoonful baking powder, pinch of salt, a Uttle 
 mUk. Rub the lard and butter into the flour, add 
 all dry ingredients, warm the treacle, and add with 
 a little milk, mix well, pour into a flat tin, well 
 greased. Bake in a very moderate oven about 
 forty minutes. 
 
 831. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 One potmd of flour, half a pound of oatmeal, 
 half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, half 
 an ounce of ground ginger, one pound of treacle 
 
324 CAKES 
 
 two eggs, pinch of carbonate of soda. Melt butter 
 and sugar together, add flour, oatmeal, etc. Bake 
 in a flat tin in a moderate oven. 
 
 832. PLAIN CAKE (Cape Colony) 
 
 Take the weight of four eggs in sugar and butter 
 and the weight of six in flour, two teaspoonfuls of 
 baking powder, two or three eggs. Flavour as re- 
 quired. Stir the sugar, butter, and eggs together 
 with a spoon, then gradually add the dry ingredients 
 previously mixed. If less eggs are used they can be 
 substituted by a little milk. 
 
 833. PLAIN CAKE (Surrey) 
 
 Three-quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a 
 pound of ground rice, three eggs, some candied peel, 
 one tablespoonful of baking powder, six ounces of 
 sugar. When mixed it should be rather moist, and 
 if the eggs do not make it sufficiently so, add a 
 little milk or water. 
 
 834. PLAIN CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Half a pound of flour, six ounces of currants, six 
 ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, three eggs, 
 two ounces of candied lemon, two teaspoonfuls of 
 baking-powder ; bake one hour. 
 
 835. PRIMBLES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of flour, three ounces of 
 sugar, two oimces of butter, rind of a lemon, two 
 eggs. Mix perfectly smooth, force through a rose- 
 pipe, bake in brisk oven. Should be a pale gold 
 colour. 
 
CAKES 325 
 
 836. POTATO-CAKES, SALT (Ireland) 
 
 This recipe is most excellent. Take an equal 
 weight of cold cooked potatoes pressed through 
 a sieve, and of flour. Rub in beef dripping in 
 the proportion of four ounces to the pound, and 
 salt to taste. Moisten with a little milk, roll out 
 about half an inch thick, cut the paste into little 
 cakes with the top of the flour dredger. Bake in 
 good hot oven till the cakes are a golden brown. 
 Split, butter, and serve piping hot. Suitable either 
 for breakfast, tea, or for dinner as a substitute for 
 potatoes ; in the latter case, very good with cold 
 meat. 
 
 About one pound of boUed potatoes. Mash well, 
 with some milk and water, salt, and a little butter, 
 into a thick batter. Then work in about double the 
 quantity of flour, with which you have previously 
 mixed a dessert-spoonful of yeast powder. The 
 mixture becomes softer the more you work it. 
 Make it into little cakes and bake in good oven. 
 
 837. POTATO-CAKE, SWEET (Devonshire) 
 I 
 Take three or four warm potatoes, mash these; 
 half a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of fat 
 (two ounces of butter, two ounces of lard), a few 
 currants or sultanas, a little Demerara sugar, salt ; 
 well mix together with milk ; roll out to about one 
 
326 CAKES 
 
 inch or one and half mches thick, and put on flat 
 greased tin. 
 
 II 
 Two pounds of boiled potatoes mashed, add 
 quarter of a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of 
 butter, quarter of a pound of^urrants, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Work all well together, roll out 
 nearly an inch thick, cut into round cakes and bake. 
 To be eaten whole, or split and buttered. 
 
 838. QUEEN CAKES (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Cream a quarter of a pound of butter and then 
 add quarter of a pound of castor sugar, two eggs — 
 work in one at a time — five ounces of flour (sifted), 
 a little grated nutmeg, one ounce of currants, one 
 teaspoonful of baking powder. This is a rather 
 stiff mixture. Well grease queen-cake tins, and 
 bake from ten to fifteen minutes in moderate oven. 
 
 839. QUEEN CAKES (Surrey) 
 
 Put into a bowl a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter with a quarter of a pound of castor sugar 
 and cream it. Add, to six ounces of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of baking-powder, the grated rind of a 
 lemon, a pinch of salt. Beat up two eggs, and add 
 these, alternately with the flour mixture, to the bowl 
 of creamed butter and sugar, until all is in, beating 
 well. Lastly, add three ounces of glace cherries 
 or of sultanas, and two ounces of candied peel 
 thinly cut : pour into patty-pans, or very small 
 " castle pudding " tins, and bake in a good oven. 
 These cakes may be decorated on top with glac6 
 cherries or candied peel. They are most delicious. 
 
CAKES 327 
 
 840. SAND CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Weight of two eggs in butter, sugar and cornflour 
 (Colman's is the best for this recipe), one teaspoonful 
 of baking-powder. Bake in a moderate oven. Pour 
 over a Uttle water or lemon icing. Just warm two 
 or three tablespoonfuls of icing or castor sugar, 
 wetted with about a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
 and pour over cake. 
 
 841. SANDWICH CAKE (Devonshire) 
 
 Three eggs, the weight of two eggs in flour and 
 sugar, beat the sugar and eggs together for twenty 
 rniautes, gradually sift in the flour. Bake in a quick 
 oven for ten minutes. 
 
 - 842. SANDWICH CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 j^Take the weight of two eggs in butter, castor 
 sugar, ground rice, and flour — add one teaspoonful 
 of baking-powder. Bake in large flat cake tin. 
 WJIien dold, split and insert raspberry jam. Takes 
 about twenty to thirty minutes to cook in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 843. SCOTCH CAKE 
 
 Four pounds of well-dried flour, two pounds of 
 good butter, half a pound of candied citron and 
 lemon peel, the same quantity of pounded loaf 
 sugar, quarter of a pound of sweet and half the 
 quantity of bitter ahnonds blanched, and half a 
 pound of caraway comfits ; cut the citron and 
 
328 CAKES 
 
 lemon peel into thin strips, the almonds into small 
 chips, and mix them with httle more than half 
 of the flour, part of the comfits, and the sugar ; 
 melt the butter, and when nearly cool pour it into 
 the flour mixing it briskly all the time ; then form 
 it with the hands into a large round, about an inch 
 thick, using the remainder of the flour to make it 
 up with ; cut it into four, pinching each part round 
 the edge with the finger and thumb ; prick and 
 strew the remainder of the comfits over them ; bake 
 on paper on floured tins in a moderate oven. 
 
 844. SEED CAKE (Cheshire) 
 
 Take one pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one 
 dozen eggs, quarter of a pound of caraway seeds. 
 Put one pound of butter before the fire till it gets 
 soft enough to beat it up ; when well beaten with the 
 hand, put in the sugar and beat it well, then the 
 eggs, and afterwards the fiour. They must all be 
 beaten as they are put in. Line your pan with 
 buttered paper and put in the batter. 
 
 845. SEED BISCUITS (Kent) 
 
 Take three and a half pounds of flour, one pound 
 of moist sugar, one and a half ounces of caraway 
 seeds, one and a half pints of milk, and a little 
 volatile salts. Wash them over with egg and sugar, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 N.B. — The sugar should be dissolved in the milk 
 and strained, for all biscuits. 
 
CAKES 329 
 
 846. SEED CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 (Rich) 
 
 Take one pound of flour and a pinch of salt, six 
 ounces of butter, three-quarters of a pound of castor 
 sugar, four eggs, one teaspoonful of caraway seeds, 
 one ounce of baking powder, one gill of milk or 
 cream. Add the eggs well beaten, and work well 
 together ; thin down with milk. Add baking- 
 powder and seeds last. Let it stand on plate rack 
 over oven (coolest part) for about one hour. Then 
 bake in moderate oven about one hour. Sufficient 
 for two medium-sized cakes. 
 
 847. SEED CAKE (Ireland) 
 
 Take one pound of butter beaten to a cream. 
 Beat in one pound of powdered sugar (white) ; 
 then beat in, one by one, a pound of eggs, each 
 whole. Keep beating all together with a wooden 
 spoon. Then add one pound of flour, well dried 
 at the fire, and lemon or hawthorn whisky to 
 flavour — a wineglassful. Beat at least one hour 
 from the commencement. Bake in tin shapes 
 lined with buttered paper. Bake about two hours. 
 (The seeds have been omitted. Two ounces of 
 caraways should suffice. Ed.) 
 
 848. COMMON SEED CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Two and a half pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 loaf sugar, one tablespoonful of thick yeast, half a 
 pint of warm milk, half a pound of butter, one ounce 
 of caraway seeds. Line a tin with buttered paper, 
 
330 CAKES 
 
 put in the mixture, and set it before the fire to 
 rise. Bake it about one hour in a rather hot oven. 
 When done, brush the tops over with milk. 
 
 849. TIPPERARY SEED CAKE (Ireland) 
 
 Wash a pound of butter in a little orange-flower 
 water, and beat it to a cream ; then mix into it by 
 degrees a pound and a half of pounded loaf sugar 
 and sixteen eggs well beaten ; add one pound of well- 
 dried flour, half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched 
 and pounded in a little rose-water, two ounces of 
 caraway seeds ; beat the whole well together for 
 half an hour, pour it into a buttered tin lined with 
 buttered paper, and bake ia a quick oven for two 
 hours. 
 
 850. AYRSHIRE SHORTCAKE (Scotland) 
 
 Mix together in a basin a quarter of a pound of 
 flour, two ounces of castor sugar, and a pinch of salt ; 
 rub in gently but thoroughly a quarter of a pound of 
 butter. Shghtly beat up one egg, mix with it one 
 tablespoonful of milk or cream. Make a hole in 
 the middle of the flour, pour in the egg and milk ; 
 mix into the flour with a knife, and then knead it 
 well with the hand till all the flour is weU mixed. 
 It must be a soft paste. Flour a board and roll 
 out the paste half an inch thick and cut into any 
 shape desired. Ornament the edges, decorate the 
 top with caraway seeds, place on a greased paper 
 on a tin, and bake. 
 
CAKES 331 
 
 851. SAFFRON CAKE (Cornwall) 
 
 One and a half pounds of flour (if self-raising flour 
 is not used, add four teaspoonfuls of baking powder), 
 half a pint of milk, one pound of fruit (raisins, 
 currants, or both), three ounces of candied peel, 
 six ounces of brown sugar, six ounces of butter (to 
 be creamed along with the sugar), two eggs, a pinch 
 of salt, and three pennyworth of saffron. Put the 
 saffron in the oven over-night, or for an hour when 
 the oven is quick, to " draw " it well, in a cup with a 
 little hot water. Then strain it, well squeezing out 
 the essence. Add it to the milk and eggs, which 
 have been well beaten (yolks and whites separately), 
 and mix this to the dry ingredients. The above 
 amount will make two good-sized cakes. Bake 
 two hours or more. (Some people dry their 
 saffron, then crush it to powder and mix it with 
 the flour.) 
 
 852. SHORTBREAD (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take one pound of fresh butter, beaten to 
 the consistency of cream; add to it, by degrees, 
 three pounds of flour, half a poimd of loaf sugar, 
 sifted quite fine, which must be mixed with the 
 flour previous to its being crumbled into the butter, 
 two ounces of sugar plums, one ounce of lemon 
 peel, one ounce of orange peel sliced. After the in- 
 gredients are mixed together, form them into cakes, 
 eight in number. The orange peel and sugar plums 
 are to be placed on the top. 
 
332 CAKES 
 
 853. SHORTBREAD (Leicestershire) 
 
 A quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a 
 pound of flour, two ounces of ground rice, two 
 ounces of castor sugar, strip of citron peel. Put all 
 the ingredients in a bowl together ; work weU with 
 the hand until all is mixed into a stiff paste (without 
 any liquid added). Turn on to a floured board, 
 press well with the hand until the cracks are out ; 
 cut into squares and place on each a piece of peel. 
 Bake on a greased tin until a nice brown colour. 
 
 854. SHORTBREAD BISCUITS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Mix together in a basin a quarter of a pound of 
 flour, a quarter of a poimd of rice flour, two or three 
 ounces of castor sugar, a pinch of salt. Rub gently 
 into this a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
 Slightly beat an egg, mix with a tablespoonful of 
 cream, pour this into the shortbread mixture ; stir 
 it with a knife. 
 
 866. GINGER SHORTBREAD (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into half a 
 pound of flour, to which a pinch of salt, a quarter 
 of a pound of castor sugar, an eggspoonful of baking 
 powder, and one and a half teaspoonfuls of ground 
 ginger has been added. Mix into a paste with an 
 
 866. SHREWSBURY CAKES (Shropshire) 
 
 Beat to a cream one pound of fresh butter ; add 
 the same quantity of well-dried flour, a pound of 
 sugar pounded and rolled with a bottle, an ounce 
 
CAKES 333 
 
 and a half of caraway seeds and six eggs well beaten 
 in a little orange-flower water ; add, last of all, half 
 a glass of ratafia, and mix the whole well together ; 
 make it into a paste, roll to the thickness of a crown- 
 piece, cut into shapes, and bake on floured tins. 
 
 857. SHREWSBURY CAKES (Kent) 
 
 Take one poimd of butter beaten to a cream, one 
 and a half pounds of flour sifted and dried, one pound 
 of loaf sugar, four eggs, a little mace and cinnamon 
 pounded. Work all together; roll it out thin and 
 cut it into shapes. To be baked in a slow oven. 
 
 858. SHREWSBURY CAKES (StafEordshire) 
 
 Take one pound of flour, six ounces of butter, 
 rubbed into the flour, three-quarters of a pound of 
 castor sugar, two eggs, leaving out one white. Mix 
 all well together, first butter, sugar, and flour, then 
 eggs. Roll out very thin and cut in rounds with a 
 wineglass or small tumbler, and bake in a slow oven. 
 
 869. SILVER CAKE {American) 
 
 Take one cupful of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
 soda, two cupfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of cream 
 of tartar, three cupfuls of flour, the whites of six 
 eggs, half a cupful of mUk, one teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice. Frost with white frost. 
 
 860. SIMNEL CAKE (Gloucestershire) 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of flour, three ounces of 
 mixed peel, quarter of a pound of butter, three good- 
 
334 CAKES . 
 
 sized eggs, quarter of a pound of castor sugar, two 
 ounces of ground almonds, three-quarters of a pound 
 of currants. Beat butter to a cream, add sugar and 
 beaten eggs gradually, and work well together. 
 Add flour sifted; beat thoroughly, then add re- 
 maining ingredients. Line a tin with greased paper, 
 pour in mixture, and bake in gentle oven from 
 two to three hours. When cold, make some almond 
 paste. Put a layer on top of cake. Form remainder 
 into round balls. Brush the cake over with white of 
 egg and dust with castor sugar. Set in a cool oven 
 till balls are lightly browned, and decorate with 
 crystallised fruits. 
 
 861. MRS. STOCKDEL'S SMALL CAKES 
 (Seventeenth Century) 
 
 Take three poimds of very fine flour ; add one and 
 a half pounds of butter, and as much each of cur- 
 rants and of sugar. Add the yolks and half the 
 whites of seven eggs, well beaten, knead all well 
 together into a paste, adding one grated nutmeg 
 and a little rose-water. Make them up about the 
 bigness of your hand, and bake them upon a tin 
 plate. 
 
 862. SLIM CAKES (Kent) 
 
 Take one and a half pints of flour — put one egg 
 in it, as much milk as wiU wet it, put one ounce of 
 butter in the milk, beat it over the fire tUl the butter 
 melts — add it to the flour ; roll out and bake on a 
 griddle (or girdle). 
 
. CAKES 335 
 
 863. SODA CAKE (Kent) 
 
 Take five ounces of flour, six ounces of raisins, 
 three ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of butter, 
 one egg, a little essence of lemon, and a small tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in a teacupful 
 of cold milk. Rub the butter into the flour, then 
 add the raisins and sugar, then all the rest by 
 degrees, the soda and milk last, and bake directly. 
 
 864. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, 
 half a pound of currants, one ounce of caraway 
 seeds, two drachms of carbonate of soda, two 
 drachms of ginger, half a pound of sugar, and four 
 eggs. Mix with one pint of new milk. To be baked 
 in a moderate oven for two hours. 
 
 865. SODA CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of lump sugar, 
 half a pound of currants, one gill of milk, four 
 ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of carbonate of 
 soda, one egg. Rub the butter in the flour, and 
 put the milk, sugar, and egg together. Put the 
 currants into the flour, and mix them together before 
 you add the milk, sugar, and egg. Dissolve the 
 carbonate of soda in the milk. Directly you have 
 mixed all together, put in the oven. 
 
 866. SPONGE CAKE (Surrey) 
 
 Three eggs, their weight in castor sugar, the 
 weight of two eggs in flour, three drops essence of 
 lemon. Beat the eggs and sugar together, till light 
 
336 CAKES 
 
 (quite twenty minutes' good beating), stir in the 
 flour, but do not beat it, add the flavouring, put into 
 a greased and sugared tin, and bake at once in a 
 moderate oven, about thirty minutes. 
 
 867. CHEAP SPONGE CAKE (Surrey) 
 
 Three eggs, three cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of 
 sugar, half-cupful of milk, one teaspoonful of cream 
 of tartar, half teaspoonful of soda, lemon. Bake 
 quick. (Breakfast-cups are apparently intended. Ed.) 
 
 868. RICH SPONGE CAKE (Hampshire) 
 
 Break twelve large eggs into a deep basin, beat 
 for ten minutes, sift in by degrees one pound of castor 
 sugar ; when this has been beaten all together twenty 
 minutes, sift half a pound of pastry flour and half 
 a pound of self-raising flour, previously well mixed 
 together and warmed. Continue to beat, till the 
 time in aU is half an hour. Put into tins well but- 
 tered and sugared, and bake for one hour. 
 
 869. SULTANA CAKE (Devonshire) 
 
 Three-quarters of a pound of flour, six ounces of 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, six ounces of 
 sultanas, one egg, two teaspoonfuls of baking 
 powder, one and a half ounces of citron. Beat 
 butter and sugar to a cream, and add the egg well 
 beaten, mix in the other ingredients, and add to 
 the mixture, if necessary, a little warm milk. Bake 
 one and a half hours. 
 
CAKES 337 
 
 870. SUSSEX CAKES 
 
 To two pounds of well-dried flour, mix three- 
 quarters of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, four 
 ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds 
 pounded in a little orange-flower water, and one 
 pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream ; mix these 
 well together, bake in small tins, well floured, or 
 drop on small tins. 
 
 871. SWEET BISCUITS (Yorkshire) 
 
 Take five eggs well beaten, one pound of sugar, 
 one pound of flour ; beat all together half an hour 
 and bake in tins. 
 
 872. SWISS ROLLS (Kent) 
 
 Take a cupful of sugar, another of flour, three eggs, 
 a little milk ; well beat the eggs, then add together 
 with one teaspoonful of baking-powder, mix well ; 
 grease a baking tray ; pour in ; bake in moderate 
 oven for fifteen minutes. Spread raspberry jam 
 on, and roll up, or fold over. 
 
 873. TEA BISCUIT (Surrey) 
 
 Four teacupfuls of flour, one heaped teaspoonful of 
 cream of tartar, one small teaspoonful of carbonate 
 of soda, butter to taste rubbed into flour. Mix 
 into a dough with milk, not at all stiff, and bake 
 directly in a quick oven. Buttermilk will do instead 
 of cream of tartar. 
 22 
 
338 CAKES 
 
 874. LITTLE TEA-BISCUITS (MACAROON AND 
 COCONUT) (Surrey) 
 
 Beat up the white of an egg to a stiff froth ia a 
 basin. Gradually add half a pound of castor sugar 
 and a few drops of essence of almonds. Mix into a 
 thick white paste, and drop pieces of it, with a spoon, 
 upon a sheet of rice paper or tissue paper, keeping 
 them about half an inch apart. This paper, of 
 course, must be first laid upon the oven sheet. Put 
 the biscuits in a slow oven till they colour to a pale 
 drab, then take them out, and when cold remove 
 them from the paper with a sharp silver knife. 
 A somewhat similar style of biscuits may be made, 
 by substituting a quarter of a pound of grated coco- 
 nut for the castor sugar and almond essence. About 
 a teaspoonful of sugar will be required only ; and a 
 little cochineal will colour some of these as a pretty 
 variety. 
 
 875. TEA CAKES (Middlesex) 
 
 Take one pound of flour, half a pound of butter, 
 nine ounces of pounded loaf sugar, the peel of a 
 lemon grated, a few caraway seeds, the yolks and 
 whites of three eggs beaten separately; mix these 
 together into a stiff paste, roll it out, and cut it 
 with a glass ; bake upon tins. 
 
 876. BUTTERMILK TEA CAICES (Somerset) 
 
 Half a pound of flour, three ounces of dripping or 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of sultanas, a teaspoon- 
 ful of baking powder, a little candied peel and sugar, 
 one small egg, salt. Mix in the flour first, sugar, 
 
CAKES 339 
 
 powder, and salt ; then rub in the dripping, and 
 lastly put in the sultanas and peel ; mix with egg and 
 buttermilk (not too moist). Bake in moderate 
 oven. 
 
 877. FRIED TEA CAKES (Somerset) 
 Very old recipe 
 
 One pound of flour, two ounces of currants, two 
 ounces of dripping or lard, one teaspoonful of baking 
 powder. Mix these with milk in the morning, stiff 
 to the consistency of pastry : roll out in the after- 
 noon, a quarter of an inch thick. Cut with a round 
 cutter and fry in boiling lard in a saucepan or deep 
 frying-pan. Serve hot, with castor sugar sprinkled 
 over. 
 
 878. POTATO TEA CAKES (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Boil some nice potatoes dry, and when cold pass 
 them through a sieve, or mash well. Take three 
 oimces of mashed potatoes, three ounces of flour, one 
 teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch of salt . Mix 
 all well, and then rub in lightly three ounces of lard 
 or dripping. Add sufficient water to make all into 
 a stiff paste. EoU out thin, cut with round cutters 
 and bake at once. Serve hot with butter. Sultanas 
 or currants and a little sugar added are also liked. 
 
 879. TREACLE CAKE (Yorkshire) 
 
 Three-quarters of a pound of golden syrup, one and 
 a half pounds of flour, quarter of a pound of sugar 
 (Demerara), two ounces of butter, two ounces of 
 lard, one egg, and one teaspoonful of ground ginger, 
 
340 CAKES 
 
 one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in half 
 a teacupful of cold milk. Have the golden syrup 
 hot. Rub in butter and lard to the flour, then add 
 syrup, lastly the egg and milk (with carbonate of 
 soda in). Bake in moderate oven about half an 
 hour in ordinary square or oblong " dripping " tins. 
 Cut in squares when cold. 
 
 880. ICED TRIFFIES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Whisk three eggs with five ounces of castor sugar 
 to a stiff batter, and flavour with a few drops of 
 vanilla essence, then sift in five ounces of pastry 
 flour. With the batter, half fill some fancy-shaped 
 bun-tins which are well greased with butter, and 
 bake in a sharp oven from ten to twenty minutes. 
 During this time prepare the icing as foUows : Mix 
 in a basin six ounces of poimded sweet almonds, a 
 dessertspoonful of pounded bitter almonds, four 
 ounces of grated chocolate, and four ounces of fine 
 icing sugar. Meanwhile dissolve in a double boiler 
 one ounce of butter and a beaten egg. This dissolved 
 butter and egg should be gradually added to the dry 
 ingredients till the icing is of the right consistency. 
 Spread this over the top and sides of the little cakes, 
 smooth with a knife dipped into boiling water, and 
 set in a cool oven to harden a little. Afterwards 
 place each little cake in a small fancy d'oyley or 
 paper. 
 
 881. WAFFLES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Two cupfuls of flour, two eggs, one teaspoonful 
 of baking powder, one and a quarter cupfuls of milk, 
 one tablespoonful of creamed butter, a pinch of salt. 
 
CAKES 341 
 
 Mix flour, baking powder, and salt together. Mix 
 yolks with mUk, then mix with the dry ingredients, 
 adding last the whites and creamed butter. Have 
 the waffle iron very hot and well greased with 
 lard, bake on both sides until a nice deep brown. 
 (Breakfast-cups are indicated. Ed.) 
 
 882. WALNUT CAKE (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Six whites, six yolks of eggs, six ounces of flour, 
 half a poimd of sugar, half a pound of butter, half a 
 teaspoonful of baking powder, one pound of walnuts, 
 three drops of vanilla. Chop walnuts very finely 
 (there should be six ounces when shelled), beat 
 butter and sugar to a cream, add yolks one by one, 
 whisk whites very firmly, add walnuts to the 
 whites, add flour and whites alternately. 
 
 883. WENNINGTON CAKES (Yorkshire) 
 
 Take haK a pound of flour, half a pound of lump 
 sugar, six ounces of butter rubbed into the flour, a 
 few currants or almonds, which you please ; three 
 eggs, the rind of a lemon grated ; mix all well 
 together, lay them in lumps upon the tins — a few 
 minutes will bake them. 
 
 884. THE MOST WHOLESOME OF CAKES (Surrey) 
 
 Two pounds of wholemeal flour, half a pound 
 of raisins, half a pound of sultanas, half a pound 
 of butter, half a pound of moist sugar (more if 
 liked), one teaspoonful of mixed spice, two large 
 teaspoonfuls of yeast powder ; mix with about 
 a pint of new milk. Rub the butter into the 
 
342 CAKES 
 
 dry meal. Add all the other dry ingredients, then 
 stir in the milk as quickly and lightly as possible 
 with a wooden spoon ; no kneading required. Turn 
 out at once into two well-buttered baking-tins, place 
 immediately in a good but not over-heated oven. 
 Bake about two hours, taking care not to burn. 
 
 885. WIGGS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, one pound of butter, 
 one pint of cream, four eggs (leaving out two of the 
 whites), and two tablespoonfuls of yeast. Mix well 
 and let it rise a little. Then add half a pound of 
 sugar, and half a pound of caraway comfits, make 
 up the dough with these, and bake in a dripping pan. 
 
CHAPTER XIX 
 
 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, TEA- 
 CAKES, SCONES, ETC. 
 
 Note. — That the art and practice of making our 
 own bread has, in large measure, died out from 
 among us, is one of the most lamentable signs of 
 modem so-called civilisation. We allow the baker, 
 with his alum, bone-flour, and other unnecessary 
 ingredients, to supply us with that " staff of 
 life," which should surely be a sound and trust- 
 worthy staff if it is to be any good at all. We 
 speak of home-made bread as though it were some 
 treasure beyond our attainment. Now, in remote 
 country villages, where brewer's yeast is almost 
 unprocurable, one can understand the art of bread- 
 making dwindling down to nothing ; although, even 
 there, yeast can be made quite easily — witness the 
 recipes at the end of this section. But in towns, 
 where the breweries are only too glad to get rid of 
 their yeast for the asking, there need be no such 
 difficulty. (I do not allude to German or com- 
 position yeast ; it really is not a patch upon the 
 genuine article.) Then, the absence of the old- 
 fashioned brick oven is a great drawback in towns ; 
 but here, again, some of the best bread I have ever 
 eaten was baked by a Hammersmith woman in an 
 
 343 
 
344 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 oil-stove. The Daily Mail bread-making competition 
 proved, to the satisfaction of all well-wishers to 
 humanity, that there are still many wives and 
 mothers who have solved one of the secrets of good 
 health ; for that home-made bread and good health 
 are frequently synonymous, is a fact to be verified 
 by experience. 
 
 The few and uninteresting breads, buns, scones, 
 etc., obtainable at a shop, can be supplemented 
 — or, I hope, replaced — from the following hst, with 
 the most varied and toothsome productions. I 
 desire to commend this section to everybody who 
 can appreciate the difference between bread made 
 for eating, and bread made for selling. It is a differ- 
 ence not to be stated in mere words. 
 
 Amongst minor items, the reader should par- 
 ticularly note the delicious Cornish Saffron Buns. 
 
 886. TO MAKE HOUSEHOLD BREAD OB ROLLS 
 
 , (Middlesex) 
 
 Take ten pounds of flour, and three quarts of water 
 which is about lukewarm, if in summer, and rather 
 warmer in winter. Put the water in a large pan, 
 and add a tablespoonful of salt. Add a portion of 
 the flour, stirring it up well, until it is of the con- 
 sistency of butter, adding rather more than a pint 
 of good yeast ; then add more flour, mixing the 
 whole well, and put the pan, covered with a cloth, 
 and throwing flour over the dough, before the fire 
 for a few minutes. About a third of the flour is to 
 be kept back in the first operation, and this is to be 
 weE kneaded in when the mixture which has been 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 345 
 
 placed before the fire has risen properly. Put the 
 dough again before the fire, and let it rise for a few 
 minutes, then knead again, and bake in a quick oven, 
 having previously put the dough into pans, and 
 pricked the surface of the dough with a fork, and 
 placed it again before the fire in the pans. The 
 baking, in an ordinary oven, will require about an 
 hour for a four-pound loaf and fifty minutes for a 
 loaf of three pounds. If a heated oven is used, 
 it must be well-heated before the dough is put 
 into it. If potatoes be mixed with the bread in 
 the proportion of an ounce to two ounces to the 
 one pound,- the flavour, (to some people's thinking) 
 will be improved. The potatoes must be first 
 boiled in their skins, then skinned, and when 
 dry, rubbed well up in milk or water boiled and al- 
 lowed to stand for a few minutes before it is used. 
 Then add the mixture to the dish in which the dough 
 is mixed. Rice may also be used. Take a pound 
 of rice to ten pounds of wheat flour, boil it in one 
 quart of water tUl the rice has become a complete 
 pulp. Strain off the water, and beat the rice well in 
 a mortar until it is completely crushed, and is 
 entirely dissolved, then add the water in which it 
 was boiled, and a pint of milk, and boil the whole to- 
 gether for an hour. Strain off the liquid and add it 
 to the dish in which the dough is made, suppressing 
 as much water from the process as the quantity of 
 liquid obtained from the boiling of the rice will 
 supply. The dough must in aU cases be thoroughly 
 kneaded. Filtered rain water is the best to use 
 for bread-making ; if the water be hard, a drachm 
 of carbonate of soda may be added to three quarts 
 of water, but this is unnecessary when the water 
 
346 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 is of a soft nature. If rolls are to be made, 
 take a portion of the dough and mix it up with 
 a few tablespoonfuls of cream, in which the 
 whipped whites of two or three eggs have been 
 put ; knead them carefully, and add a little flour 
 if they be too moist. The dough for rolls should 
 be taken o£E when it has risen the second time, as 
 above stated, before the fire. After taking the 
 dough from the fire the second time, it must be 
 kneaded for haK an hour on a board strewed with 
 flour, if intended for loaves, but the rolls will not 
 require more than five or six minutes kneading. 
 They are then to be baked in a quick oven until 
 they are nicely browned. A minute or two before 
 they are done, they should be taken out of the oven, 
 and a brush dipped in the white of egg passed 
 over the top ; then they are to be put into the oven 
 again for one or two minutes. When there is reason 
 to suspect, either from the appearance or smell of 
 the flour, that it is not good, and there is still a 
 necessity for using it, let it be baked for an hour in 
 a very slack oven, and add to it, when making into 
 dough, about ten grains of fresh carbonate of am- 
 monia, carefully powdered, for every pound of flour. 
 This will frequently correct any bad quaUties of the 
 flour, and render the bread palatable. Milk may be 
 substituted for water in the manufacture of bread, 
 but it does not improve the flavour if the flour be 
 good. 
 
 887. HOME-MADE BREAD (Middlesex) 
 
 One quartern of best flour, half an ounce of German 
 yeast, one teaspoonf ul of salt, one and three-quarter 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 347 
 
 pints of warm water. Mix all into a dough, put 
 into a wooden or earthen basin, cover with a thick 
 cloth, stand it in a warm corner of the kitchen, let 
 it rise for two or three hours. Knead it up well, 
 put it in two baking tins, bake in a brisk oven. 
 
 888. HOME-MADE BREAD (Essex) 
 
 Take one and a quarter pounds of flour, two 
 ounces of yeast, one saltspoonful of salt, and about 
 one pint of milk or more, with a little warm water to 
 make the temperature of blood heat. Have a deep 
 basin, or better still a small bread-pan, put the flour 
 in and pile it all round the sides of the basin to 
 make a deep hole in the centre, mix the yeast in a 
 cup with a little milk and water till it is nice and 
 smooth but not thick. Now pour it into the centre 
 of the flour and sprinkle a little flour on the top of 
 the yeast, cover the basin with a cloth and put it in 
 front of the fire, to rise for about an hour, con- 
 tinually turning the basin round. Then mix lightly 
 with a wooden spoon so that the yeast is well mixed 
 in the flour ; then, with the hand, mix in gradually 
 the milk and water, till the dough is nice and light 
 but not too moist. Put the basin on a chair and 
 knead well with the knuckles tiU the dough looks 
 nice and smooth. Butter a tia or tins, put the 
 dough in, cover with a cloth and place in front of the 
 fire to rise nicely but not too much. Now have a 
 nice hot oven ready, put the bread on the lower 
 shelf for three-quarters of an hour, and then on 
 upper shelf with a greased paper on top of the tins 
 for another three-quarters of an hour. Watch it 
 
348 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 about every twenty minutes, for to open the oven too 
 often spoils the bread. 
 
 For making brown bread use wholemeal flour 
 instead of the ordinary flour. 
 
 889. CORN BREAD (Ireland) 
 
 To one quart of sifted meal add one teacupf ul of 
 cream, three eggs, a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda 
 dissolved in water, enough buttermilk to make it quite 
 soft ; stir well, and bake in a baking kettle or oven. 
 
 890. ITALIAN BREAD 
 
 Make a stiff dough, with twelve tablespoonfuls of 
 fine flour, six of white powdered sugar, three eggs, 
 the raspings of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh 
 butter ; mix them in a pan with a wooden spoon, and 
 if the dough is not sufficiently firm, add more flour 
 and sugar. Then turn it out and work it well with 
 the hand, cut it into the shape of round long bis- 
 cuits, and glaze them with white of egg. They are 
 then to be baked in a hot oven. 
 
 891. MANNHEIM BREAD (German) 
 
 Take two eggs, six tablespoonfuls of flour, three 
 of sugar, some salt, and a Uttle essence of aniseed to 
 give it a flavour ; when worked well together, cut 
 into pieces as above, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 892. POTATO BREAD (French) 
 
 Take the quantity of potatoes required ; boil 
 them in their skins. When done, peel them, and 
 bruise them with a rolling-pin to the consistence of 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 349 
 
 a paste. To this add as much flour as there is 
 potato pulp, and some yeast. Knead them well, 
 putting as much water as may be necessary. When 
 properly kneaded, form into loaves, and place in the 
 oven, taking care that it be not quite so hot as for 
 common bread, or it will become hard on the outside 
 before the inside is properly baked. The door of the 
 oven should not be closed so soon as on ordinary 
 occasions. This bread must be allowed longer 
 time to bake than any other. 
 
 893. YANKEE BROWN BREAD (Ireland) 
 
 To two quarts of corn meal, pour one quart of 
 boiling water ; stir yeast into two quarts of rye meal, 
 and knead all together with two quarts of water 
 lukewarm. Add, if you choose, one gill of molasses. 
 
 894. LITTLE LOAVES (Kent) 
 
 One quart of flour, one small teaspoonful of soda, 
 as much tartaric acid as would fit on a sixpence, 
 mixed with either milk or water, a pinch of salt. Mix 
 the salt and soda with the flour, then dissolve the 
 tartaric acid in the milk, and make your dough. 
 
 895. FRENCH ROLLS 
 
 Two pounds of fine flour, two tablespoonfuls of 
 fresh table-beer yeast, a full pint of warm water or 
 milk, a little salt. Mix all together, and make the 
 dough quite tender ; cover it over with a napkin 
 and let it rise before the flre about half an hour, 
 then mould it into rolls, and let them rise about 
 half an hour more ; bake them half an hour in a 
 quick oven. 
 
350 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 896. MILK ROLLS (Devonshire) 
 
 Half a pound of flour, one teaspoonful of baking 
 powder, a pinch of salt, one ounce of butter, a tea- 
 cupful of cold milk. Sift the flour, baking powder, 
 and salt, and mix well ; rub in butter, mix with the 
 milk, make quickly into rolls, and bake at once ; 
 brush over with milk when half baked. 
 
 897. SUFFOLK RUSKS 
 
 Half a pound of flour, one egg, and a little milk. 
 Three ounces of butter, salt, and baking powder. 
 Work all together as for pastry, and cut into rounds 
 with a cutter, and bake. When nearly done, take 
 out and cut in half ; bake again for a few minutes. 
 To be eaten with butter or cheese. 
 
 898. RUSKS (Kent) 
 
 Three pounds of fine flour, three ounces of fresh 
 butter, three ounces of sugar. Rub all together. Lay 
 a leaven with a few tablespoonfuls of yeast and three 
 eggs beaten together. Let it stand for half an hour, 
 then mix it up with a pint of warm milk. After it 
 has stood half an hour longer, make it into small 
 loaves ; when baked as much as cakes of the same 
 size should be, put them back into the oven to dry. 
 
 899. TOPS AND BOTTOMS (Kent) 
 
 Two eggs, one pound of flour, three ounces of 
 butter. The butter to be dissolved in a sufiicient 
 quantity of milk to make it into a stiff paste, with 
 as much yeast as will make it light. Afterwards 
 roll it out, and cut them into whatever shapes you 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 351 
 
 please. Put them on tins in a warm place for 
 twenty minutes, then in rather a cool oven ; when 
 cooked through, divide them and put them again 
 in the oven till quite crisp. 
 
 BUNS 
 
 900. BUNS AND FRENCH BREAD (Hertfordshire) 
 
 Two pounds of flour, two ounces of sugar, two 
 ounces of butter, two ounces of German yeast, two 
 eggs, one pint of milk. Dissolve yeast in a little 
 warm water, make a well in centre of flour, pour it 
 in ; well whisk eggs, add the milk made hot, and 
 mix all into a light dough ; heat it for about ten 
 minutes, then leave it to rise and make into any 
 shapes preferred. For the buns, add a little more 
 sugar and sultanas ; if for dough cakes, raisins ; 
 always leave to rise for about half an hour, when 
 made into shapes ; then bake in a quick oven ; half 
 an hour for dough cake ; ten minutes each for bims 
 and roUs. 
 
 901. BROWN MEAL BUNS (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One pound of fine meal, six ounces of butter, three 
 ounces of sugar, one teaspoonful of baking powder, 
 two eggs. 
 
 902. BATH BUNS (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Four eggs, yolks and whites, beaten up and mixed 
 in two spoonfuls of table-beer yeast, and strained 
 through a sieve ; eight ounces of butter, melted in 
 half a pint of milk, and mixed with the eggs and 
 yeast into two pounds of flour ; make it up into 
 
352 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUPFENS, ETC. 
 
 dough, and let it rise an hour and a half. Mix 
 seven ounces of sifted sugar in the dough, and 
 make it up into twelve cakes, then let them rise 
 three hours and a half, taking care not to place 
 them too near the fire. Strew a little sifted sugar 
 over them before baking. 
 
 903. BUTTERMILK BUNS (Kent) 
 
 Three pounds of flour, half an ounce of carbonate 
 of soda, well-pounded and mixed with one tea- 
 spoonful of ground spice and two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt which must then be weU mixed with the flour ; 
 three and a quarter pounds of moist sugar and a 
 tablespoonful of caraway seeds. The oven should 
 be rather hotter than for bread. When the oven 
 is quite ready, add to the ingredients sufficient 
 buttermilk to make it into a thin batter, which 
 must be dropped with a spoon on a floured tin. 
 
 904. COBURG BUNS (Northumberland) 
 
 Three ounces of castor sugar, four ovmces of 
 butter, six oxmces of flour, two eggs, half a tea- 
 spoonful of carbonate of soda, half a teaspoonful 
 of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of ground ginger, half 
 a teaspoonful of nutmeg, two teaspoonfuls of golden 
 syrup. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add 
 the eggs well beaten, mix in the dry ingredients 
 (which have been previously well mixed in a basin) 
 without beating, add the syrup last. This mixture 
 fills one dozen small tins. If liked, put spht almonds 
 in the bottom of each tin. Be sure to butter or 
 lard the tins very thoroughly. Bake in a sharp 
 oven until nicely browned. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 353 
 
 905. COFFEE BUNS (Somerset) 
 
 Six ounces of butter, six ounces of Demerara sugar, 
 six ounces of sultanas, a quarter of a pound of flour, 
 one and a half teaspoonfuls baking powder, two 
 eggs. Cream the butter and sugar, add the well- 
 beaten eggs gradually with a little flour, lastly add 
 all the dry ingredients, mix to a stiff paste, form into 
 round balls with the hands pressed slightly. Place 
 on a greased baking sheet ; brush over with egg, 
 and bake in a fairly quick oven twenty to thirty 
 minutes. Sufficient for two dozen buns. 
 
 906. EASTER BUNS (Surrey) 
 
 Take one cupful of yeast, three of milk, and 
 enough flour to make a thick batter : mix lightly, 
 and set it over-night. Next morning, add one 
 cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, melted 
 (but not creamed), half a nutmeg, one saltspoonful 
 salt, and sufficient flour to make the mixture roll 
 out like biscuit. Mix and knead all well, and leave 
 it for five hours to rise. Then roll it out half an 
 inch thick, cut it into round cakes, lay them on a 
 buttered baking-sheet for half an hour ; then mark 
 a cross on each with a knife, and bake immediately 
 till they are a good light brown. They can be 
 brushed with white of egg and sugar. (Tea-cups 
 indicated. Ed.) 
 
 907. LEMON BUNS (Kent) 
 
 One pound of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, 
 two ounces of sugar, two ounces of lump sugar, 
 rubbed on the rind of one lemon ; squeeze the lemon- 
 23 
 
354 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 juice into the ingredients. Dissolve your butter 
 in half a teaeupful of warm milk. Mix weU with a 
 wooden spoon, drop them on your baking-sheet, 
 and bake in a quiet oven twenty minutes. When 
 half done, sprinkle some powdered sugar on them. 
 
 908. PLAIN BUNS (Kent) 
 
 Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of 
 flour, mix in four ounces of sugar, one nutmeg, a 
 few Jamaica peppers, a dessertspoonful of caraways. 
 Put one or two spoonfuls of cream into a tea-cup of 
 yeast, and as much milk as will make it into a Hght 
 paste. Set it to rise by the fire tiU the oven is 
 ready. Bake on tins. 
 
 909. PLAIN BUNS (Cape Colony) 
 
 Two full breakf astcupfuls of flour, three-quarters 
 of a breakfast-cupful of sugar, two to four ounces 
 of butter or beef dripping, one nutmeg grated, two 
 eggs, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of 
 salt, and enough milk to mix the whole into a fairly 
 moist dough. Stir the butter (which should be soft), 
 sugar, and eggs together with a spoon, add a little 
 milk. Mix all the dry ingredients and add 
 gradually to the rest ; if the dough is too stiff, put 
 a little more milk. Place large spoonfuls on baking 
 tin, sprinkle white sugar on each bun. Bake from 
 ten to twenty minutes according to heat of the 
 stove. 
 
 910. SAFFRON BUNS (Cornwall) 
 
 To half a quartern of dough add a quarter of a pound 
 of currants, two ounces of grated lemon-peel, De- 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 355 
 
 mcrara sugar to taste (say about quarter of a pound), 
 half a teaspoonful of mixed spice, six ounces of lard 
 or dripping, two-pennyworth of saffron (pour boiling 
 water on this and leave it overnight) ; warm the 
 dough and melt the lard before mixing, and add 
 (while the mixture is not too hot) two well-beaten 
 eggs. Do not let the lard be too hot. Knead all 
 together with the hands, then leave in a warm place 
 covered with a cloth, until the whole has " plimmed 
 up " or risen ; then divide into small lumps, place 
 on a greased tin, and bake in a slow oven until 
 slightly coloured. 
 
 (For other buns, see Chap. XVIII.) 
 
 911. CURRANT LOAF (Hertfordshire) 
 Two pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, five ounces of sugar, five ounces of currants, 
 five ounces of sultanas, three ounces of candied 
 peel, three eggs, three-quarters of a pint of warm 
 milk, a pinch of salt, one pennyworth of German 
 yeast. Rub butter into flour, add fruit and sugar, 
 beat up eggs, milk, and yeast, set aside for a little 
 time, then knead and stand aside to rise. Bake in 
 good oven. 
 
 SCONES 
 912. SCONE FLOUR (Hertfordshire) 
 Eight pounds of flour, one ounce of soda, two 
 ounces of cream of tartar. 
 
 913. SCONES (Devonshire) 
 One pound of flour, three and a half ounces of 
 lard, three ounces of white sugar, half an ounce of 
 
356 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 cream of tartar, a quarter of an ounce of carbonate 
 of soda, one ounce of sultanas, one egg, one pinch of 
 salt, little milk. Mix all the dry ingredients to- 
 gether, then add the eggs and milk, and mix to a 
 nice dough, not too stiff ; roll out on floured board 
 half an inch thick, cut into diamond shapes, allow 
 them to rise before the fire for ten minutes. Bake 
 for twenty minutes in moderate oven. 
 
 914. SCONES (Hertfordshire) 
 
 One pound of flour, two ounces of butter, two 
 ounces of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of carbonate 
 of soda, a quarter of an ounce of cream of tartar, 
 one egg. Bake twenty minutes. 
 
 915. SCONES (Kent) 
 
 I 
 One pound of flour or brown meal ; rub into it 
 two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of baking 
 powder, one teaspoonful of pounded white sugar, 
 and a little salt. Mix with lukewarm milk to a 
 stiff paste ; roll out, cut with a tumbler or tin 
 circle into rounds, and bake them on a tin. To be 
 eaten hot, cut in halves and buttered — or toasted 
 next day. 
 
 916. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Half a pound of finest flour, two ounces of butter, 
 a pinch of salt and of sugar, a teaspoonful of baking 
 powder, and three-quarters of a gill of milk. Rub 
 the butter into the flour with the sugar, salt, and 
 baking powder, and mix in the milk with an iron 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 357 
 
 spoon as lightly as possible. Roll out -with a little 
 flour to the thickness of an inch, and cut into three- 
 cornered shapes. Bake in a quick oven twenty 
 minutes, and serve up on a napkin. For these 
 scones wholemeal flour can be used if preferred to 
 white. 
 
 917. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 One pound of flour, one ounce of butter, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of 
 castor sugar, half a pint of milk, a little salt. Rub 
 the butter in the flour, then add the baking powder, 
 sugar, and salt. To be sent to the table hot. 
 
 918. IRISH SCONES 
 Six tablespoonfuls of plain flour, one tablespoonf ul 
 of Paisley flour, one tablespoonful of lard, half a 
 saltspoonful of salt. Mix with milk and roll out on a 
 board. Cut with sharp round cutter, and bake in 
 a quick oven. May be served either hot or cold, with 
 butter. 
 
 919. SCOTCH SCONES (Lancashire) 
 One pound of flour, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
 three ounces of dripping or butter, one tablespoonful 
 of bicarbonate of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of 
 tartar, one teacupful of milk. Mix flour and sugar, 
 soda and tartar, rub in butter, mix up with milk, roll 
 out and cut into scone shapes, and bake twenty or 
 thirty minutes. 
 
 920. SODA SCONES (Scottish) 
 Eight tablespoonfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls 
 of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of carbonate of 
 
358 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 soda, a little salt. Mix well together, dry ; then 
 rub in a little butter, about the size of a nut, and 
 make all into a soft dough, with a little milk or 
 milk-and-water. Put it on a well-floured board, 
 roll it out about half an inch thick. Cut it into 
 rounds with a cutter, or roll it out in one large 
 round and divide it in four. Bake for about ten 
 minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 921. WHEATMBAL SCONES (Isle of Wight) 
 
 Half a pound of wheatmeal, one teaspoonful of 
 sugar, a pinch of salt, one or two ounces of butter, 
 one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 Rub the butter into the meal, add the salt, sugar, 
 and baking powder. Mix to a stiff paste with cream 
 or milk ; turn on to a floured board, roU out about 
 half an inch thick. Cut with a round cutter, or in 
 triangles. Bake about fifteen minutes. Serve hot 
 or cold, with butter. 
 
 CRUMPETS, ETC. 
 922. CRUMPETS (Kent) 
 
 Set two pounds of flour with a little salt before 
 the fire tUl quite warm ; then mix it with warm 
 milk and water till it is stiff as it can be stirred. 
 Let the milk be as warm as it can be borne with the 
 finger. Put a cupful of this with three eggs well 
 beaten and mixed with three tablespoonfuls of very 
 thick yeast ; then put this to the batter and beat 
 all well together in a large pan or bowl ; add as 
 much milk and water as will make it into a thick 
 batter ; cover it close, and put it before the fire to 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 359 
 
 rise. Put a bit of butter in a piece of thin muslin, 
 tie it up, and rub it lightly on the heated frying 
 pan ; then pour over sufficient batter at a time to 
 make one crumpet. Let it do slowly, and it will 
 be very light. Cook them all the same way. They 
 should not be brown but of a fine yellow. 
 
 923. MUFFINS (Middlesex) 
 Mix a quartern of fine fiour, one and a half pints 
 of warm milk and water, with a quarter of a pint of 
 good yeast and a little salt. Stir them together for 
 a quarter of an hour, then strain the liquor into a 
 quarter of a peck of fine flour ; mix the dough well, 
 and set it to rise for an hour. Then roll it up and 
 pull into small pieces ; make them up in the hand 
 like baUs, and lay a flannel on them while rolling, 
 to keep them warm. The dough should be closely 
 covered the whole time. When the whole is rolled 
 into balls, the flrst that is made will be ready for 
 baking. When they are spread out in the right form 
 for muffins, lay them on tins and bake them, and as 
 the bottoms begin to change colour, turn them on 
 the other side. 
 
 924. PIKELETS (Stafiordshire) 
 Take one and a half pounds of flour, half an ounce 
 of carbonate of soda, a pinch of salt, and mix them 
 to a batter with one quart of buttermilk. Have 
 ready a hot iron plate or a heated frying pan, either 
 of which must be rubbed with a piece of fat beicon 
 before putting in the batter. Allow one small tea- 
 cupful of batter for each pikelet. When it is a 
 light brown, raise and turn it over gently with a 
 sharp knife. 
 
360 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 925. SALLY LUNN (Lancashire) 
 Make a light dough, using a little more yeast than 
 in making a loaf. Mix with warm milk, with a little 
 butter dissolved in it and a pinch of salt. Leave it 
 to rise in the tin in which it is to be baked. 
 
 926. SALLY LUNN (Kent) 
 
 Beat up two eggs, melt a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, one tablespoonful of thick barm, put all into a 
 quart of flour with as much rich warm milk as you 
 wUl want to wet it. Beat all with a spoon; let it 
 stand for an hour, and bake in a pan. 
 
 927. SPLITS (Kent) 
 
 One pound of flour, one ounce of butter to be 
 rubbed into it, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
 half a pint of milk ; to be rolled out about an iach 
 thick, and cut out with a small tin shape. 
 
 928. TEA-CAKES (Lancashire) 
 
 Put a halfpennyworth of barm into a little warm 
 milk, then rub three ounces of butter iato one and a 
 half pounds of flour, and set it to rise. Beat up one 
 egg, and put it ia when you knead it, then let it 
 rise again when you put it in your tins, before you 
 bake the cakes. 
 
 929. TEA-CAKES (Yorkshire) 
 
 I 
 Take one quart of sifted flour and three spoonfuls 
 of bakiag powder, mix them weU together, and then 
 rub one tablespoonful of lard into tbe flour, and 
 
BREAD, EOLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 361 
 
 moisten with water, kneading till you get a dough. 
 Roll it on a pie board until thin, and cut in round 
 cakes and bake immediately. 
 
 n 
 
 Take half a peck of flour, half a pint of yeast, one 
 pound of currants, one pound of butter, half a pound 
 of sugar, one ounce of caraway seeds ; to be made 
 into large cakes. Set to rise a short time before 
 being put into the oven. 
 
 930. TO MAKE BARM OR YEAST (Cheshire) 
 
 I 
 Boil one ounce of hops in six quarts of water till 
 the hops fall to the bottom, then strain, and when 
 blood-warm, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
 three pints of flour. Leave it at the fire two days, 
 stirring it frequently — then add one pound of boiled 
 potatoes, bruised, and well mixed through the barm. 
 Strain all through a colander and set it by the fire 
 till it rises in the vessel. Keep it in a cool place 
 covered. One pint will answer for eight quarts of 
 flour. 
 
 931. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 A handful of hops to a breakfastcupful of malt. 
 Pour four to five quarts of boiling water on it, and 
 let it simmer down to about three quarts. Then 
 strain, and when milkwarm, add half a pint of flour, 
 and some old barm. Leave it a day to rise, and 
 bottle it that day or the next. 
 
362 BEEAD, ROLLS, BUNS, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 932. TO MAKE BARM OR YEAST (Lancashire) 
 
 Half a pound of bruised malt, half an ounce of 
 hops, four ounces of sugar, four ounces of salt, two 
 gallons of water. Boil for an hour in a very clean 
 pan. Have ready two pounds of fine flour rubbed 
 very smooth with cold water in a deep mug (pan). 
 Strain the boiling liquid on the flour while some one 
 stirs it with a wooden spoon. About one quart of 
 old barm should be put to the new while it is warm. 
 Let it stand to work for two days and then cork it up 
 very tightly. Shake the bottle well before using it ; 
 it is better two or three days old. Fourteen pounds 
 of flour wiU require two teacupfuls of barm. 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 BEVERAGES 
 
 Note. — In the olden days of home-brewed ale, a 
 great many wines and beers were also made. Some 
 of these, " tasting of Flora and the country green," 
 in rural districts still survive. 
 
 The Surrey cottager regards the elder-bloom in 
 the hedges as significant of the coming elderberry 
 wine that shall " hearten a man up," as he puts it, 
 in a drear-nighted December : elderberry wine and 
 Christmas are for him synonymous. CowsUp wine, 
 sweet, sticky, and innocuous — rhubarb, and turnip, 
 and blackberry wine, are yet immensely popular in 
 provincial places : and " currant wine is very good," 
 as Jenny Wren said in the nursery rhyme. 
 
 But aerated drinks have largely superseded these 
 pleasant beverages ; and the old-time recipes are 
 rapidly becoming obsolete. Amongst those ensuing 
 I would call attention to the various formulas for 
 ginger beer — which is cheap, wholesome, and re- 
 freshing — to the home-made cordials and liqueurs, 
 and to the notes on coffee and tea-making. It 
 should be noted that many cottage wines are 
 spoiled by the use of brown sugar, which renders 
 them somewhat coarse and crude in flavour. White 
 preserving sugar is nowadays just as cheap, and 
 much more refined to the taste. 
 
 363 
 
364 BEVEEAGES 
 
 HOME-MADE WINES (ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 933. APPLE WINE (1822) 
 
 To make a wine nearly equal to the Rhenish, you 
 must, to every gallon of the juice of apples, im- 
 mediately after it comes from the press, add two 
 pounds of common loaf sugar. Boil it as long as any 
 scum rises ; strain it through a sieve, and let it cool ; 
 add some good yeast, and stir it well. Let it work 
 in the tub for two or three weeks, or till the head 
 begins to flatten, then skim off the head, draw it 
 clear off, and turn it. When it has been made a year, 
 rack it off, and fine it with isinglass ; then add to 
 every three gallons half a pint of the best rectified 
 spirits of wine, or one pint of brandy (see note 
 to No. 940). This wine wUl be found very superior. 
 
 934. BLACKBERRY WINE (Essex) 
 
 Put any quantity of blackberries in a pan, just 
 cover them with boiling water, and allow them to 
 stand in a cool oven or outside the cooking-stove 
 all night to draw the juice ; or the berries may be 
 mashed with a mallet. 
 
 Measure and strain into a cask or stone bottle, 
 and allow the juice to ferment for a fortnight. No 
 yeast is required. Then add one pound of loaf 
 sugar to every gallon of the wine, with a quarter of a 
 pint of best brandy (see note, No. 940). It may be 
 bottled in six months, but wiU improve by keeping. 
 
 935. BALM WINE (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Put a peck of balm leaves in a tub or large jar, 
 beat four gallons of water scalding hot, ready to 
 
BEVERAGES 365 
 
 boil, then pour it upon the leaves. Let it stand all 
 night, then strain it off through a hair sieve. To 
 every gallon of liquid put two pounds of fine sugar, 
 and stir up very well. Take the whites of four or 
 five eggs, beat them very well, put them into a pan 
 with the liquor. Whisk it well before it be over 
 hot ; when the scum begins to rise take it off, and 
 keep it skimmed all the time it is boiling. Let it 
 boil three-quarters of an hour ; then put it into the 
 tub. When it is cold, put a little new yeast upon it, 
 and beat it in, every two hours, that it may head 
 the better. So work it for two days, then put it into 
 a sweet keg, b;mg it up close, and when it is clear, 
 bottle. 
 
 936. COWSLIP WINE (1815) 
 
 To one gallon of water put four pounds of loaf 
 sugar, boil and skim it as long as any scum rises ; 
 to each gallon of water put the rind of a lemon or 
 orange, and boil with the sugar and water three 
 gallons of the flowers of cowslips. Let them boil 
 three minutes, then put it into a tub, and when 
 almost cold, toast a bit of bread and spread it with 
 very thick yeast, put it in the liquor, and let it 
 stand two nights : when you put it into the cask, 
 add all the juice of the orange or lemon which you 
 pared ; and if you make ten gallons of wine, you 
 must put two quarts of brandy, and so on in pro- 
 portion for any quantity you wish to make. (See 
 note. No, 940.) 
 
366 BEVERAGES 
 
 937. COWSLIP WINE (Surrey) 
 
 Boil twelve pounds of loaf sugar, with the juice of 
 six Seville oranges, and the whites of three or four 
 eggs well beaten, in six gallons of water, for haK an 
 hour, carefully skimming it all the time. In the 
 meanwhile, put a peck of the finest and freshest 
 picked cowslip flowers into a tub, with the rinds 
 of two or three of the oranges, and, pouring on them 
 the boiling syrup, stir the whole up, and leave it, 
 well covered, to infuse. On its getting nearly cold, 
 spread a thin toast of bread all over with good yeast, 
 and put it into the tub to excite a fermentation. 
 After it has worked two or three days, strain it off, 
 having first pressed the cowslips in a coarse cloth 
 to strain out all the juice. Having turned it up, 
 keep the bung loose for a few days, and on finding 
 the wine has ceased to work, which is always known 
 by its ceasing to hiss, drive the bung tight. Let the 
 hquor remain undisturbed for about three months 
 and then bottle it off, either for present or future 
 use. If, on running the wine, about a quarter of 
 a pint of brandy be put in for every gallon (see note. 
 No. 940), with a quarter of a gill of syrup of citrons, 
 lemons, or clove gilly-flowers, it will make a very fine 
 addition to its strength and flavour. (This is the 
 best recipe of the three. Ed.) 
 
 938. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 To two gallons of water and half a peck of cowslip 
 flowers, add two and a half pounds of powdered 
 sugar. Boil them for half an hour, and take off the 
 scum as it rises. Then pour it into a tub to cool, 
 
BEVERAGES 367 
 
 with the rinds of two lemons. Let it stand in the 
 tub for two days, stirring it every two or three hours, 
 and then put it into a barrel. Let it stand a month ; 
 bottle it, and put a lump of loaf sugar in each bottle. 
 
 939. CURRANT WINE (1815) 
 
 To three qua,rts of water add two quarts of currant 
 juice and four pounds of good powdered sugar ; let 
 it stand two or three days before you put it into the 
 cask ; and if you make ten gallons, add three quarts 
 of brandy (see note. No. 940), and one gallon of 
 raspberry juice mixed with four poimds of sugar. 
 Put the bung in, but do not stop it close till it has 
 done hissing, which perhaps will not cease in less 
 than a fortnight ; then stop it close, and let it stand 
 twelve months, if you make a large quantity. N.B. 
 — As currant wine is seldom two years alike, on 
 account of the different seasons for ripening the 
 currants, it will be proper to try the wine in four or 
 five months after it is made, as the sweetness goes off 
 much sooner some years than others, but it will 
 generally require to stand twelve months or more. 
 If it is made with loaf sugar, it is fit to drain off much 
 sooner ; but the wine is not so strong as that made of 
 powdered sugar. The raspberry juice and brandy 
 should not be mixed with the wine till it is put into 
 the cask. 
 
 940. CURRANT WINE (1822) 
 
 For a fine currant wine, take black currants, red 
 currants, white currants, ripe cherries, raspberries, 
 and strawberries, of each an equal quantity. To 
 every four poimds, well bruised, add one gallon of 
 
368 BEVERAGES 
 
 clear soft water. Steep three days and nights in 
 open vessel, and stir the mass frequently. Then 
 strain through a sieve, and press the pulp to dryness. 
 To each gallon of liquor put three pounds of good, 
 rich moist sugar. Let the whole stand three days, 
 skim the top, and stir frequently. Put it into 
 casks, to purge at the bung, for about a fortnight ; 
 then to every nine gallons you can add a quart 
 of good brandy, and close the cask. Isinglass 
 finings may be applied, if necessary. 
 
 Note : Some of the finest-flavoured and strongest- 
 bodied home-made wines I ever met with, were made 
 without any addition whatever of brandy ; and the 
 excellence they had attained from age, was a proof 
 that brandy was not necessary merely to enable them 
 to keep. 
 
 941. CURRANT WINE (Kent) 
 
 To every quart of juice put two quarts of water, 
 and to every gallon three and a half pounds of sugar. 
 Let it ferment in the cask three days, and then 
 bimg it down with a quarter of a pint of brandy to 
 each gallon (see note to above, No. 940). 
 
 AU home-made wines are better if you first boil 
 the sugar and water together, and add the juice when 
 cold. 
 
 Grape wines are made in the same proportion. 
 
 The fruit should be gathered in a dry season and 
 when quite ripe. 
 
 942. ELDERBERRY WINE (Essex) 
 
 Remove the berries from the stems and if neces- 
 sary wash them. Place in a pan, mash weU, and 
 
BEVERAGES 369 
 
 pour over boiling water in the proportion of three 
 quarts to four quarts of berries. Let them remain 
 for twenty-four hours, then strain and press out all 
 the juice that can be forced through the strainer. 
 For every two quarts of juice add one and three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, a dozen allspice, an 
 inch of ginger root, and a teaspoonful each of cara- 
 way seeds and powdered cinnamon. Boil aU to- 
 gether for five minutes, and when quite cold, put in 
 half an ounce of compressed yeast, which has been 
 stirred till liquid with a teaspoonful of sugar. The 
 fermentation will commence in a short time, and 
 when it is quite finished the wine may be bottled. 
 As this wine is rather heady, many people prefer 
 to substitute elder syrup, which can be made like 
 blackberry syrup, and wiU make a nice hot drink 
 for winter evenings. 
 
 943. ELDERBERRY WINE (Surrey) 
 
 Take five gallons of ripe elderberries, and boU 
 them in ten quarts of water for half an hour. Then 
 strain through a sieve, but do not squeeze the berries. 
 Pour back the liquor into the boiler, measuring it. 
 To every gallon add three and a half pounds of sugar, 
 with the peels and juice of five or six lemons. Boil 
 twenty minutes, and when at boiling point, add 
 the well-beaten whites of five or six eggs. Stir all 
 well, and fill the cask. When the liquor has cooled 
 enough, put in some yeast, or a bit of toast with 
 yeast on. When it is ready to be bimged, half a 
 pound of bruised race ginger, in a muslin bag, should 
 be tied so as to hang in the middle of the cask. 
 In two months it will be ready to bottle. 
 24 
 
370 BEVERAGES 
 
 944. ELDERBERRY WINE (Sussex) 
 
 Take about twenty pounds of very ripe elderberries 
 (picked from the stalks), and put them into a deep 
 earthen pan or small tub, with just enough water 
 to cover them. Crush them every now and then 
 with some heavy utensil, till all the juice is out of 
 the berries. Then strain the liquor into a pan for 
 boiling, with three pounds of Demerara sugar to 
 every gallon of juice. Add some cloves, a stick of 
 mace, the same of cinnamon, and six or seven pieces 
 good " race " ginger. Let this boU for about one 
 and a quarter hours, then pour it back into the 
 former vessel (cleaned ready to receive it), and when 
 it is fairly cold, put in a little yeast on a bit of toast, 
 cover it up and leave it to work. In about five days 
 you can strain out the wine into a cask, and leave 
 the bunghole half open till fermentation ceases, 
 when it must be securely fastened and left so for 
 three months. 
 
 945. GINGER WINE (1815) 
 
 To five gallons of water put seven pounds of 
 powdered sugar ; boil it a quarter of an hour, take 
 the scum off as it rises, put the liquor into a tub, 
 and, when cold, add six pounds of sun raisins. Have 
 ready five ounces of ginger boiled in two quarts of 
 water till it is reduced to one quart, and the peels 
 of two large lemons boiled with it ; when it is cold 
 put this to the liquor, with two ounces of isinglass. 
 Toast a bit of bread, and spread it thick with good 
 yeast, and put it in ; let it stand in the tub one 
 night, take out the bread and put it into the cask 
 
BEVERAGES 371 
 
 with a pint of brandy (see note, No. 940) ; stop it close 
 and let it stand six weeks, and it will be fit to bottle. 
 
 946. GINGER WINE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Seven gallons of water, seven pounds of lump 
 sugar, half a pound of ginger well bruised ; boU it all 
 one hour, then add the whites of four eggs, weU 
 beaten to clarify it, and skim it well when boiled ; 
 strain it iato a tub, and let it stand till it is quite 
 cold, then put into a vessel, with the peels and juice 
 of seven lemons out very thin, and two spoonfuls of 
 yeast. Stop the cask close. In a fortnight it will 
 be fit for bottling, and in a fortnight more for drink- 
 ing. N.B. — The juice of the lemons should be passed 
 through a colander, or strainer, and the egg-sheUs 
 be boiled in it. 
 
 947. GOOSEBERRY WINE (1822) 
 
 To every two gallons of full-ripe gooseberries, 
 mashed, add an equal quantity of soft water, milk- 
 warm, and one pound of refined sugar, in process of 
 dissolving. Stir up the whole in a tub, and cover 
 with a blanket, to preserve the heat of fermentation. 
 Stir frequently for three days, then strain — first 
 through a sieve, and secondly through a coarse 
 cloth. The liquor must then be put into a cask, 
 kept full, and allowed to ferment from ten days to 
 three weeks, when two or three bottles of brandy 
 (see note, No. 940), according to the size of the 
 cask, in the proportion of one to eight, may be 
 poured in, with the same quantity of sherry, 
 together with a small quantity of isinglass, perfectly 
 dissolved in water. Close the cask tightly, and if 
 
372 BEVERAGES 
 
 at the end of a fortnight it is not sweet enough, 
 add more sugar. Close finally for six months, and 
 then bottle ; or sooner, if it is wished to imitate 
 sparkling champagne. 
 
 948. GREEN GOOSEBERRY WINE (Lancashire) 
 
 Gather gooseberries when quite hard and sour. 
 To every pound of fruit when picked and bruised 
 put one quart of cold spring water. Let it stand 
 three days, stirring it twice every day. To every 
 gallon of juice, when strained, add three pounds of 
 loaf sugar. Put it in a brandy cask and to every 
 twenty quarts of the liquor add one quart of French 
 brandy (see note, No. 940), and a little isinglass. 
 Try it in six months, and if the sweetness is gone off, 
 bottle it. The corks should be wired down. 
 
 949. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 To one pound of bruised gooseberries, add one 
 quart of spring water. Let it stand two days and 
 then strain it off. To every gallon of liquor add three 
 pounds of loaf sugar ; when that is dissolved, barrel 
 it When the fermentation has subsided, to every 
 five gallons add one pint of brandy (see note, No. 
 940), and a little isinglass. Let it stand six months, 
 then bottle it. 
 
 950. GRAPE WINE (Kent) 
 
 To every gallon of water put four quarts of grapes 
 well bruised. Let it stand twenty-four hours, then 
 strain it through a hair sieve. To every gallon of 
 liquor put three pounds of loaf sugar ; when the 
 
BEVERAGES 373 
 
 Bugar is dissolved, put it into a cask, which must be 
 quite full, then add a quarter of an ounce of isinglass 
 to every five gallons, stirring it weU with a stick. 
 Take off the scum, which rises for several days, and 
 when the liquor is clear, stop up the cask very close, 
 and bottle it in March (September in Australia). 
 
 951. LEMON WINE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take a sufficient number of the best lemons to 
 produce five quarts of juice, and pass the liquid 
 through a strainer to free it entirely from the seeds. 
 Peel all the lemons before squeezing, throw the pulps 
 into a large tub, and cover them with water. When 
 they have been steeped for two days, strain off 
 the liquid, and pour it on seventy-five pounds of 
 lump sugar, to which, when formed into a syrup, 
 add as much of lemon peel as you obtain by 
 putting half of the rinds, cut very thin, into a jug, 
 and pouring on them about two quarts of boiling 
 water, which, after being covered over for two days 
 and nights will have sufficiently imbibed the flavour. 
 Gret a cask of twenty-one gallons measure (if one 
 that has held brandy, sherry, or Madeira, it will be 
 better), pour into it the juice of the fruit and the 
 syrup mixture, and fill the cask up with water ; leave 
 the bung out for about six weeks, or even two 
 months, and by that time it will have sufficiently 
 fermented, but should there be the least hissing or 
 the smallest quantity rising out of the bung hole, 
 you must not stop it down ; the vent peg, for security, 
 had better be left out for a few days. The wine 
 must remain two years in the cask before it is bottled. 
 Rainwater or Thames water is much to be preferred in 
 
374 BEVERAGES 
 
 making the wine. It is all to be used cold, excepting 
 that put to the rinds, and nothing is to be used to 
 produce fermentation. If you should wish to bottle 
 the wine before the expiration of two years, it may 
 be done at the end of twelve months, but not sooner, 
 by fining it down with isinglass. N.B. — ^At the 
 expiration of a fortnight add two bottles of brandy 
 (see note. No. 940) ; should the fermentation not 
 have ceased in four days after adding the above, 
 put in one bottle more brandy. 
 
 952. LEMON WINE (1815) 
 
 Pare four dozen of lemons, put the peels into one 
 gallon of brandy, and let them stand fourteen days ; 
 make the juice of the lemons into a syrup, with two 
 pounds of lump sugar ; when the peels are ready, 
 boil ten gallons of water with forty pounds of good 
 lump sugar, for half an hour ; put it into a tub, and, 
 when cold, add the brandy, peel, and syrup, and put 
 it into the cask ; stop it close, and let it stand six 
 months. N.B. — Beat the whites of six eggs to a 
 froth, and mix with the water while it is cold. 
 
 953. MADEIRA WINE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Thirty poimds of coarse, moist sugar, to ten gallons 
 of water ; boil it half an hour, and take off the scum 
 as it rises ; when cold, put to every gallon one quart 
 of ale out of the vat, let it work well a couple of days, 
 then put it ki a barrel with one pound of sugar-candy 
 and four pounds of raisins, with some isinglass in 
 a pint of brandy (see note, No. 940). When it has 
 done working, stop it up close and let it stand twelve 
 months. October is the best month for making it. 
 
BEVERAGES 375 
 
 954. MARIGOLD WINE (Surrey) 
 Take a peck of marigold blossoms, stand them 
 ill an earthenware pan, with one and a half pounds 
 of stoned raisins. To three gallons of water, add 
 two pounds of honey and seven pounds of sugar. 
 Boil this, clear it with the whites and shells of three 
 eggs, strain it, and put it to the flowers. Cover the 
 pan close and leave it for twenty-four hours ; then, 
 next day, stir it up with a wooden spoon, and let it 
 stand another twenty-four hours. Then strain it 
 off into a cask, adding the thinly pared rinds of five 
 or six oranges, a pound of sugar-candy, and about 
 a wineglassful of brewer's yeast. Stir well, and 
 leave it to work until it foams out at the covered 
 bunghole. When fermentation is over, add one 
 pint of brandy and about half an ounce of isinglass 
 (melted), and stop up the cask (see note, No. 940). 
 In four or five months' time it should be ready. 
 
 955. MEAD (1815) 
 To one gallon of water put five poimds of honey ; 
 when the water is hot put the honey into it, and let 
 it boil one hour and a half ; as soon as the scum 
 begins to rise take it off, and continue skimming it 
 as long as any scum arises ; then put two ounces of 
 hops to every ten gallons of liquor, and two ounces 
 of coriander seeds, each ounce sewn up in a separate 
 bag ; add the rind of three or four lemons and oranges, 
 if you like : when it is cool, put it into the cask with 
 a bottle of brandy (see note. No. 940), and stop it up 
 quite close. Mead made of this strength will generally 
 require to stand six or nine months in the barrel ; 
 if you wish to have the sweetness gone off, it must 
 stand longer. 
 
376 BEVERAGES 
 
 956. MEAD (Middlesex) 
 
 Put into a large earthenware pan three gallons 
 of water, five pounds of honey, half an ounce each of 
 cinnamon, mace, and ground ginger ; four cloves, 
 and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Mix all tho- 
 roughly weU. Pour it into a deep lined saucepan, or 
 large preserving pan, and stir it gently till it comes 
 to the boil, then let it simmer for at least an hour. 
 Take it ofE and let it go cold. Then stir in one table- 
 spoonful of brewer's yeast, and strain it off into a 
 cask to ferment. Keep the bunghole covered tUl 
 fermentation ceases, then close it up and leave it 
 for nine months or so, after which the wine can be 
 bottled. 
 
 957. MEAD (Surrey) 
 
 Boil fourteen pounds of honey in six gallons of 
 water for half an hour, breaking into it four eggs. 
 Add some small bunches of marjoram, balm, and 
 sweet briar, half an ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, 
 mace, and bruised ginger, and boil for quarter of an 
 hour longer. Pour it out to cool, toast a large slice 
 of brown bread, spread it over with fresh yeast, and 
 put it into the liquor. Let it ferment for one day, 
 and then put it into a cask, which keep open tiU 
 fermentation has ceased, then bung close. It may 
 be bottled in a month, but the corks must be weU 
 wired. 
 
 958. METHEGLIN (Cornwall) 
 
 Take three and a half pounds of honey, one quart 
 of white-currant juice, two gallons of boiling water, 
 
BEVERAGES 377 
 
 quarter of an ounce of cream of tartar, and stir all 
 well together till the honey is quite dissolved. Then 
 let it stand to ferment. When fermentation ceases, 
 strain it off, add one pint of brandy (see note. 
 No. 940), and bottle it. If it be properly corked and 
 kept in a dry place, it will keep good for years. 
 
 959. ORANGE WINE (1815) 
 To thirty quarts of water, add forty pounds of 
 lump sugar, and the whites of six eggs ; beat them 
 to a froth, and mix it with the water while it is cold ; 
 boil it half an hour, and take off the scum as it rises. 
 Have ready ten quarts of the juice of Seville oranges, 
 and put half the rinds into a tub, and pour the 
 liqour boiling hot upon them ; let it stand till quite 
 cold, and add the juice and a quart of brandy (see 
 note, No. 940) ; put it in the cask and stop it close, 
 and let it stand for six months, and if it is too sweet 
 let it stand longer. If you wish to have it very rich, 
 you may add what quantity you please of citron 
 syrup. Wine made by this recipe is very rich with- 
 out the syrup. 
 
 960. RAISIN WINE (1815) 
 To one gallon of water put six pounds of sun 
 raisins ; let it stand in a tub twelve days, stir it 
 frequently, press the raisins as dry as possible, and 
 put the liquor into a cask the proper size ; if you 
 have ten gallons, put a quart of brandy in it (see 
 note. No. 940). If you wish to make it very rich, 
 you may put seven pounds of raisins to the gallon, 
 and dissolve five pounds of sugar-candy in the liquor 
 before you put it into the barrel : when made thus, it 
 requires to stand longer, and is equal to any foreign 
 wine. 
 
378 BEVERAGES 
 
 961. RHUBARB WINE (Suffolk) 
 
 Measure one pint of rhubarb, cut into small 
 pieces, to one pint of water, to the quantity you 
 require. Put all together into an earthen vessel 
 and let it stand for a fortnight. Stir and squeeze it 
 (with a wooden spoon) every morning. Then strain 
 o£f, and measure half a pound of white sugar to 
 every pint of liquid. Let this stand for a week ; 
 skim every morning, and bottle at the end of the 
 week. 
 
 962. ENGLISH SHERRY (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Thirty poimds of moist Lisbon sugar to ten gallons 
 of water. Boil it half an hour, then skim it clean. 
 When quite cold, put to every gallon of the liquor 
 one quart of new ale out of the butt. Let it work in 
 the tub a day or two ; then put it in the barrel 
 with one pound of brown sugar-candy, six pounds of 
 common raisins, one pint of French brandy, and two 
 ounces of isinglass. When it has done working, stop 
 it up. It should remain in the vessel two years, if 
 not particularly wanted. 
 
 963. VALENTIA WINE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 One gallon of good spirits, one gallon of water, 
 eighteen lemons, juice and rind, one ounce of cinna- 
 mon, two ounces of ginger, one ounce of nutmeg, 
 three and a half pounds of loaf sugar, or brown, one 
 ounce of bitter almonds. The spices to be powdered 
 together, the lemons grated, put together with the 
 spices, and infused for three days in a quart of the 
 spirits, afterwards to be strained. The sugar to be 
 
BEVERAGES 379 
 
 dissolved in water and added to the other ingredi- 
 ents. The whole to be mixed well in a cask, and three 
 quarts of boiling milk poured into it, keeping the 
 mixture stirring aU the while the milk is pouring in. 
 The cask to be covered close and let stand twenty- 
 four hours. The liquid then to be strained through a 
 thick flannel bag, and, if not free from sediment, again 
 strain it until it seems quite clear. When perfectly 
 cold, to be bottled for use. 
 
 BEERS (NON-ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 964. GINGER BEER (1822) 
 
 Ginger beer of a very superior quality may be 
 prepared as follows : Powder of ginger, one ounce, 
 cream of tartar, half an ounce, a large lemon shced, 
 two pounds of lump sugar and one gallon of water 
 added together, and simmered over the fire for half 
 an hour. Then ferment it in the usual way with a 
 tablespoonful of yeast, and bottle it for use, tightly 
 corked. 
 
 965. GINGER BEER (Kent) 
 
 Bruise two ounces of the best ginger, two ounces 
 of cream of tartar, four lemons pared and sUced, with 
 the rind of one, and two pounds of loaf sugar. Pour 
 upon them two gallons of boiling water. When 
 nearly cold, strain through flannel, and add two 
 large spoonfuls of yeast. Let it stand till quite 
 cold, and pour off the clear liquor into half-pint 
 bottles, which must be well corked and tied down. 
 It will be fit to drink in three or four days. 
 
380 BEVERAGES 
 
 966. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Pour one gallon of boiling water over three- 
 quarters of a pound of lump sugar, one and a half 
 ounces of bruised ginger, and the peel of a lemon — 
 when milk-warm add one tablespoonful of yeast. 
 If this be done at night, it will be fit for bottling next 
 night. Put the piece of lemon into the yeast. Not 
 to be used for three days. 
 
 967. GINGER BEER (Middlesex) 
 
 A very pleasant and wholesome beverage when 
 well made. It was first invented a great many 
 years ago by a Mr. Pitt, a surgeon at Lewes, and 
 rose rapidly into fame. ^ Even when made as it 
 ought to be, it is a cheap beverage, but as it is 
 usually made, it is still cheaper, tartaric acid being 
 used instead of lemon juice. The best way of 
 making ginger beer is as follows : — Pour eleven 
 gallons of boiling water upon fourteen pounds of 
 white sugar, the juice of eighteen lemons, a pound 
 of bruised ginger, and the rind of two lemons. 
 When at the proper temperature, add two or three 
 spoonfuls of yeast and let it ferment for about a 
 day ; then put it into a cask to finish the fermenta- 
 tion, and when that is completed, fine it and bung 
 it down closely. It may be bottled in stone bottles 
 almost immediately. Some persons boil the water 
 and sugar together before it is poured upon the 
 ginger, but this trouble is unnecessary, unless it be 
 intended to add raisins, which are a great improve- 
 ment. In that case, a pound of good raisins may 
 be boiled with the water and sugar. The quantity 
 
BEVERAGES 381 
 
 of ginger above ordered is rather larger than would 
 suit every taste. It may of course be reduced. 
 In bottling, good corks should be used, and tied 
 over with twine. 
 
 968. GINGER BEER (Stafiordshire) 
 
 Mix one ounce of powdered ginger, half an ounce 
 of cream of tartar, one lemon sliced, two pounds of 
 lump sugar, and one gallon of water together. 
 Simmer it over the fire for half an hour, and ferment 
 it in the usual manner with a tablespoonful of yeast. 
 Then bottle it close for use in half-pint or pint 
 bottles, such as are used for soda water ; in a few 
 days it will be fit to drink. 
 
 969. GINGER BEER (Sussex) 
 
 Four gallons of water, two ounces of groimd 
 ginger, two ounces of cream of tartar, two and a 
 half pounds of moist sugar. Pour half the boiling 
 water on these ingredients, except the sugar. Let 
 it stand a day or two, then add the remainder of the 
 water, boiling also, and the sugar, and a teacupful 
 of yeast. Bottle it when rather warm. 
 
 970. GINGER POP (Ireland) 
 
 Take two ounces of cream of tartar, one ounce and 
 a half of white ginger well beaten (not ground), one 
 lemon shredded fine, one pound and a half of sugar. 
 Put them all together in an earthen vessel, and pour 
 on them ten quarts of boiling water. Let it stand 
 till nearly cold, then add two tablespoonfuls of 
 good barm ; mix it well ; let it stand for thirty 
 
382 BEVERAGES 
 
 hours, then strain it through a flannel bag, pressing 
 it well through. Bottle it, and confine the corks 
 with twine. It will be fit for use in two days. 
 
 971. IMPERIAL POP (Kent, 1809) 
 
 To two gallons of boiling hot water add two 
 pounds of loaf sugar, two ounces of white bruised 
 ginger, one ounce of cream of tartar and two table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast. When it is blood warm, put in 
 the yeast. Do not bottle it until quite cold and 
 clear. This quantity will fill ten bottles. Tie down 
 the corks. It will be fit to drink in one week in 
 the summer. 
 
 972. NETTLE BEER (Hampshire) 
 
 Wash the nettles (which should be young and 
 green), and boil them for about three hours, with a 
 little race ginger. When cool enough, add about 
 one pound of sugar to every two gallons of liquor, 
 and add about a permyworth of .yeast to the same 
 quantity. After it has worked a few hours, skim 
 and bottle it. 
 
 973. NETTLE BEER (Surrey) 
 
 Boil two quarts of nettle sprouts in one gallon of 
 water. Strain the liquor, and add half a pound of 
 sugar, with a teaspoonful of ginger. When nearly 
 cold, ferment with yeast, and bottle securely while 
 in a state of effervescence. It will be ready for 
 use in a few days. 
 
BEVEEAGES 383 
 
 974. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Into a saucepan or kettle that will hold three 
 gallons, put two gallons of water. When this is 
 boiling, add as many nettles as the saucepan will con- 
 tain. Boil them for half an hour, and strain into 
 an earthenware pan broader at the top than at the 
 bottom. Make up, with hot water, the quantity of 
 liquor to four gallons. While it is stiU as hot as 
 possible, add two ounces of best raw ginger, well 
 bruised, one ounce of cream of tartar, the peel of 
 three lemons cut thin, also their squeezed juice, 
 and two pounds of white sugar. Let the liquor 
 stand, stirring it occasionally, until lukewarm, when 
 add two pennyworth of brewer's yeast. While the 
 liquor is hot, a little isinglass may be used to fine 
 it. Stir well, and let it stand in a cool place all 
 night. In the morning, all impurities, etc., wiU 
 have risen to the top ; skim very carefully and 
 bottle in champagne bottles. The corks cannot be 
 too good ; bad corks wiQ destroy the whole thing. 
 If the corks are boiled in water for a couple of 
 hours before they are used (hot), they will drive 
 much easier and cork much more perfectly. They 
 must be tied down as soon as corked. If the 
 value of this beverage were generally known, no 
 household would be without it. 
 
 975. TREACLE BEER (1822) 
 
 This is a very pleasant and wholesome beverage. 
 To a quarter of a peck of sweet wheat bran, add 
 three handfuls of hops, and ten gallons of water. 
 Boil the whole together in a copper saucepan, tiU 
 the bran and hops sink to the bottom. Then strain 
 
384 BEVERAGES 
 
 it through a hair sieve into a cooler, and when luke- 
 warm add two quarts of treacle (or three pints if 
 it be very thick). This will be sufficient for a nine- 
 gallon cask. Before you pour the liquor into the 
 barrel, which must be done as soon as the treacle 
 is melted, put two tablespoonfuls of good yeast 
 into the barrel. When the fermentation has sub- 
 sided, bung the cask up close, and in four days it 
 will be fit to use. If you choose to bottle any of 
 the beer, it will be much improved by so doing, 
 and will be ready to drink in six or seven days. 
 
 LEMONADE, SYRUPS, FRUIT VINEGARS, 
 ETC. 
 
 976. BLACKBERRY SYRUP (Essex) 
 
 Stew the blackberries with a quarter of a pint 
 of water to every three pounds, until the juice is 
 drawn. Strain, and to every pint of juice add six 
 ounces of sugar. Boil sugar and juice together for 
 fifteen minutes, and bottle for use when cold. 
 
 977. BLACKBERRY VINEGAR (Surrey) 
 
 Take three quarts of ripe blackberries, crush 
 them, and pour over them two quarts of the best 
 white vinegar. Let it stand twenty-four hours, then 
 strain it off through a piece of muslin, and pour the 
 fluid on to three quarts of fresh blackberries. Let 
 it stand as before ; and if not strong enough when 
 you strain it off the second time, pour it on to 
 three quarts of fresh berries again. When rich 
 enough, put it into a jar, and stand the jar in a 
 
BEVERAGES 383 
 
 pan of boiling water. Let it boil fast for an hour, 
 then bottle for use. This is very good for colds, 
 etc., diluted with hot or cold water. 
 
 978. CHERRY WATER 
 
 Take one pound of good cherries, pound them in a 
 mortar till the kernels are broken, put them in a 
 large bowl and add four gills of thick syrup. Put to 
 this the juice of four lemons, and some water, enough 
 to thin the liquid sufficiently. Then strain off 
 through a sieve into glass jugs. 
 
 979. COWSLIP SYRUP (Surrey) 
 
 Take twelve ounces of fresh cowslip flowers, one 
 pint of boiling water. Infuse twenty-four hours, 
 strain, and then add two pounds of white sugar. BoU 
 it gently until it attains the consistence of a syrup. 
 
 980. ELDER ROB (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Gather your elderberries full ripe, pick them clean 
 from the stalks, put them in large stew-jars and tie 
 paper over them. Let them stand two hours in a 
 moderate oven. Then put them in a thin, coarse 
 cloth, and squeeze out all the juice you can get. 
 Put eight quarts into a preserving pan, set it over a 
 slow fire, let it boil till it be reduced to one quart. 
 When it is near done, keep stirring it, to prevent it 
 burning. Then put it into pots, let it stand two or 
 three days in the sun ; then dip a paper, the size of 
 your pot, LQ sweet oil, lay it on, tie it down with a 
 bladder, and keep it in a very dry place. Black 
 Currant Rob is made the same way, but six quarts 
 25 
 
386 BEVERAGES 
 
 of juice will suffice. (These are excellent, diluted 
 with water, for use in feverish colds.) 
 
 981. FLUMMERY (Ireland) 
 
 To one quart of oatmeal pour one gallon of water 
 and a pint of buttermilk ; let it remain for four 
 days, then strain through a hair sieve. Two quarts 
 more of water may be put on the oatmeal, and let 
 stand four days longer ; it will be sufficiently sour 
 without buttermilk the second time. 
 
 982. FRUIT SYRUP (French) 
 
 Put the fruit into a pan and let it boil five minutes. 
 Then squeeze out the juice and strain it through a 
 jelly-bag. Add it to a S3?rup of sugar, in the pro- 
 portion of half a pound of juice to one pound of sugar. 
 For this purpose your syrup must be very good, the 
 water being evaporated by boiling until the syrup 
 be very thick. When the juice and syrup are 
 thoroughly mixed, strain again through a jelly-bag. 
 
 983. GINGERETTE (Sussex) 
 
 Three drachms of tincture of cayenne, four 
 drachms of essence of ginger, three-quarters of an 
 ounce of either tartaric or citric acid, four pounds of 
 loaf sugar. Pour three quarts of boiling water on to 
 these ingredients. When cold, add about fifteen 
 drops of essence of lemon, and bottle. 
 
 984. GINGER WINE, NON-ALCOHOLIC (Ireland) 
 
 Three pounds of lump sugar, four quarts of boiling 
 water, eighteen pepper corns (break nine of them). 
 
BEVERAGES 387 
 
 thirty-six cloves, two pennyworth of citric acid and 
 the same of essence of lemon. Burnt sugar to 
 colour. Put ingredients into a large basiQ, pour 
 over them the boiling water, and leave till cold, 
 when add the colouring. 
 
 985. SYBUP OF GILLIFLOWERS (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take five pints of freshly-gathered clove gilli- 
 flowers, and put to them two pints of boiling water, 
 then put them in an earthen pot to infuse a night 
 and a day. Take a strainer and strain them out ; 
 to a quart of your liquor, put one and a half pounds 
 of loaf sugar ; boil it over a slow fire, and skim it 
 while any scum rises. When it is cold, bottle it 
 for use. 
 
 986. LEMONADE (Ireland) 
 
 One pound of lump sugar, one ounce of citric acid, 
 one teaspoonful of essence of lemon, one quart of 
 boUing water. Put the ingredients into a jug, pour 
 the water over them, leave till cold. 
 
 987. LEMONADE (Sussex) 
 
 Two pounds of castor sugar, one ounce of citric 
 acid, the grated rind of three oranges, three tumbler- 
 fuls of cold water. Let it stand three or four days, 
 stirring occasionally. Then strain, bottle, and 
 cork tight. 
 
 988. LEMONADE SYRUP (Lancashire) 
 
 Take two ounces of citric acid, two scruples of 
 essence of lemon; rub these thoroughly together 
 
388 BEVERAGES 
 
 in a mortar. Take three pounds of loaf sugar, three 
 gills of water, boil together and strain it. Pour 
 into a basin, and when half-cold, add the acid, and 
 stir it ia with a sUver spoon. When cold, bottle it. 
 
 989. LEMON SYRUP (Essex) 
 
 Put twelve ounces of loaf sugar into one quart of 
 water, and let it boil for fifteen minutes, skimming it 
 carefully. Take it off and let it get cold, then add 
 half a pint of strained lemon-juice, and one drachm 
 of essence of lemon. Mix well and bottle it. Cork 
 very tightly. To be used with water or soda-water. 
 
 990. LEMON SYRUP (Kent, 1809) 
 
 To every pint of lemon juice add one pound or 
 rather more of good loaf sugar, skim it well while 
 simmering. When all the dross is removed, boil it 
 briskly for half an hour ; when cold, bottle it. 
 Put into each bottle a very few thin shces of lemon 
 peel, which must be boiled soft in the syrup. 
 
 991. RASPBERRY VINEGAR (1816) 
 
 Take six pounds of raspberries, gathered in dry 
 weather, and six pounds of pounded sugar; put 
 them Lq an earthen pan, placing a layer of rasp- 
 berries, then a layer of sugar, and so on ; let them 
 stand for three days, and stir them once a day 
 with a wooden spoon ; then take three pints of 
 Burgundy vinegar, put it to them, stir them 
 well together, put them into a clean preserving 
 pan, over a charcoal fire, make them boUing 
 hot, then nm them through a jelly bag. Put the 
 
BEVERAGES 389 
 
 syrup in a clean earthen pot ; then put a large 
 pan of water on the fire, put the pot with the 
 syrup in the boiliag water, and let it boil for two 
 hours ; if not sweet enough, sweeten it to your 
 palate with fine loaf sugar ; let it stand till cold, and 
 put it into dry pint bottles. 
 
 992. RASPBERRY VINEGAR (Surrey) 
 
 Bruise two quarts of fresh raspberries, and pour 
 over them a quart of good white wiae vinegar; 
 cover closely, and let it stand for four days, stirring 
 it occasionally ; strain through a flannel bag without 
 pressing, and boil the liquor for a quarter of an hour, 
 with powdered sugar in the proportion of a pound 
 to a pint, skimming carefully ; when cold, bottle 
 and cork. If it is intended that the viaegar shall 
 be very acid, less sugar must be used. Some per- 
 sons add a little brandy when it is bottled ; this is 
 good for keeping, but it injures the flavour. 
 
 993. RASPBERRY SHRUB (Surrey) 
 
 Take two quarts of good ripe raspberries, pour 
 one quart of good vinegar over them ; cover them 
 closely and let them stand for two days. Then mash 
 up the berries in the vinegar, and strain off the 
 liquid on to two quarts of fresh fruit. Let this 
 stand another two days, then mash and strain as 
 before. To every pint of liquid, add two teacupfuls 
 of white sugar. Let it simmer very gently for 
 fifteen minutes in a lined saucepan over the fire, 
 keeping it well skimmed. Then strain it, bottle it, 
 cork, and cover closely, seal the cork. This should 
 be taken with cold water. 
 
390 BEVERAGES 
 
 994. SHERBET (Sussex) 
 Take half a pound of castor sugar, half a pound of 
 tartaric acid, quarter of a pound of carbonate of 
 soda. Put forty drops, or rather more, essence of 
 lemon ia the sugar. Mix well, then add the other 
 ingredients. 
 
 VARIOUS MIXED BEVERAGES (ALCOHOLIC) 
 
 995. ALE SYLLABUB (American) 
 
 Put a quart of strong ale into a large bowl, add 
 sugar to taste, and a little nutmeg. Milk the cow 
 into the bowl, as quickly and strongly as possible 
 to make a good froth ; let it stand for an hour before 
 drinking. 
 
 996. BISHOP (Middlesex) 
 Roast four good-sized bitter oranges till they are 
 of a pale brown colour, lay them in a tureen, and 
 put over them half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, 
 and three glasses of claret ; place the cover on the 
 tureen and let it stand tiU the next day. When 
 required for use, put the tureen into a pan of boiling 
 water, press the oranges with a spoon, and run the 
 juice through a sieve ; then boil the remainder of 
 the bottle of claret, taking care that it does not 
 bum ; add it to the strained juice, and serve it 
 warm in glasses. Port wine wUl answer the purpose 
 as well as claret. 
 
 997. BISHOP (Surrey) 
 Stick twelve cloves into a lemon (not right through 
 the rind) and put it in the oven for half an hour. 
 
BEVERAGES 391 
 
 Put a good-sized pinch of mixed spice into half a 
 pint of water, and boil it. Boil separately one and 
 a half pints of sherry, add the lemon and the spiced 
 water to this, stand it in a very warm place for a few 
 minutes. Take another lemon, rub two ounces of 
 lump sugar on the rind, and squeeze out half of the 
 juice ; add these to the rest, and serve up very hot. 
 
 998. CLARET CUP (Cheshire) 
 
 Two bottles of Bordeaux, one bottle of soda-water, 
 powdered sugar to taste, peel of a lemon cut fine, a 
 wineglassful of rum or cura9ao, and a sprig of 
 borage. To be well iced. 
 
 999. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Take a large jug, put into it a lemon and half 
 a cucumber (about four inches of it), cut in slices, 
 without paring them ; pour in one bottle of claret, 
 two bottles of soda-water, one gill of sherry. Add 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and a sprig of 
 borage. Cover it up for an hour, then strain out 
 the lemon, cucumber, and borage. 
 
 1000. EGG FLIP (American) 
 
 Put one quart of ale into a lined saucepan ; beat 
 up in a bowl the yolks of four eggs and the whites of 
 two. Mix in four tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, 
 and a Httle nutmeg. When the ale boils, pour it 
 gently into the egg, so that it shall not curdle. 
 Pour it to and fro and back and forward with the 
 hand raised high, so that it shall look frothy and 
 fleecy. 
 
392 BEVERAGES 
 
 1001. EGG FLIP (Cheshire) 
 
 Heat one quart of ale to boiling point. Beat up 
 to a froth, separately, the yolks of four eggs, and the 
 whites of two. Mix them, by degrees, with six 
 ounces of powdered sugar, and half a nutmeg, 
 grated. Pour the mixture rapidly from one jug to 
 another, hot ale and all together, raising the jug to 
 a height that will froth the liquid and continue till 
 it is smooth and foaming. Serve hot. Sherry may 
 be used instead of ale ; in which case, a little lemon 
 peel is an improvement. 
 
 1002. EGG HOT (Middlesex) 
 
 A very agreeable posset, taken in many parts of 
 England after great fatigue, and not infrequently as 
 a remedy for colds ; in which case, however, it is 
 not to be recommended, as it increases feverishness 
 and fails to promote copious perspiration. Beat up 
 the yolks of three eggs and the white of one in a 
 teacup of weak ale, with a httle nutmeg ; in the 
 meantime have upon the fire a quart of the same 
 kind of ale. When it has nearly boiled, add the 
 eggs thus beaten up, and let the boiling finish 
 very gently, stirring the whole time ; when it has 
 thickened, pour it into a jug containing about 
 a quartern of brandy and three ounces of loaf 
 sugar. Have another jug handy and pour back- 
 wards and forwards for three or four minutes before 
 serving. White French wine mixed with about a 
 third of water may be substituted for the beer. 
 
BEVERAGES 393 
 
 1003. MINT JTJLEP (American) 
 
 Put into a tumbler about one dozen sprigs of the 
 tender shoots of mint, put upon them a spoonful of 
 white sugar, and equal proportions of peach brandy 
 and common brandy, so as to fill up the glass one- 
 third, or perhaps a little less. Then take rasped or 
 pounded ice and fiU up the tumbler. (The lips of it 
 should be rubbed with a piece of fresh pineapple, 
 but this is not absolutely necessary.) As the ice 
 melts, you drink. 
 
 1004. MULLED WINE (Middlesex) 
 
 Boil in a quarter of a pint of water, for about ten 
 minutes, three cloves, a bit of cinnamon, a little fresh 
 lemon peel, and one ounce and a half of loaf sugar ; 
 skim, and then add a pint of port wine ; when the 
 whole begins to boil, take it off, strain it, and grate 
 in some nutmeg ; serve with toasted bread. French 
 red wine may be used, but in that case more sugar 
 will be necessary. 
 
 1005. MULLED WINE (Surrey) 
 
 Break nine eggs, the yolks and whites separately, 
 and beat them separately, adding three or four 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Pour a bottle of good wine into 
 a skillet, with half a pint of water ; and when it 
 boils, put the yolks and whites together, beating 
 them well, with half a pint more water, and pour 
 them to the wine in the skillet, stirring quickly as 
 you pour. When all is thoroughly blended, turn 
 out the liquor into a hot jug (earthenware for 
 
394 BEVERAGES 
 
 preference) and grate some nutmeg in it. To be 
 served very hot. 
 
 1006. NEGUS (Surrey) 
 
 Put half a pint of port (or sherry if preferred) in a 
 saucepan, and let it heat without boiling. Put 
 into a jug or basin four thin slices of lemon, a little 
 nutmeg, and six or seven lumps of sugar. Put 
 half a pint of boiling water on this, and stir well 
 with a wooden or silver spoon until the sugar is 
 melted. Then pour in the hot wine ; cinnamon, 
 cloves, or allspice may be added at pleasure. 
 
 1007. A RESTORATIVE (Sussex) 
 
 Put two quite fresh eggs, without breaking the 
 shells, into a basin ; squeeze over them the juice of 
 two or three lemons, cover close and leave them, 
 three or four days, till almost dissolved. Then beat 
 them well together, strain, put into a bottle, add 
 one pint of good rum, half a pound of sugar candy, 
 two tablespoonfuls of best salad oil, and shake well 
 together. Dose : half a wineglassful in a little cold 
 water, fasting. The best time to take it is quite 
 early in the morning, say five o'clock, and then 
 go to sleep again. 
 
 1008. WHITE WINE WHEY (Eighteenth Century) 
 
 Put one pint of skimmed milk, and half a pint of 
 white wine, into a basin ; let it stand a few minutes, 
 then pour over it one piut of boiling water. Let 
 it stand a little, and the curd will gather in a lump, 
 and settle to the bottom. Then pour off your whey 
 
BEVERAGES 395 
 
 into a china bowl, and put in a lump of sugar, and 
 a sprig of balm or a slice of lemon. 
 
 COFFEE AND TEA 
 
 1009. COFFEE (Surrey) 
 
 To make really good coffee, four things are 
 essential. (1) Let the coffee be freshly groimd, and, 
 if possible, freshly roasted. (2) Do not stint the 
 amount : weak coffee is unendurable. (3) Let the 
 water be boiling hot, and the utensils thoroughly 
 heated. (4) Use only earthenware and wooden 
 utensils : let no metal approach the coffee. 
 
 Have ready two earthenware jugs (size at least 
 one and a half pints each), well heated. Into the 
 first, measure four wooden tablespoonfuls, or not less 
 than two and a half oimces to the quart, of freshly 
 ground coffee. FUl up with boUing water, stir it 
 with the spoon, cover, and leave the jug to stand in 
 a warm place for two or three minutes. Then stir 
 it thoroughly once more, let the grounds settle again, 
 and strain it off through a piece of butter-musUn 
 into the hot second jug, and serve at once, with a 
 jug of boiling mUk. Should any coffee be left over, 
 boil it up along with the mUk the second day. This 
 makes it particularly bland and palatable, and 
 for those who prefer " French " coffee, i.e. mixed 
 with chicory, it is especially advisable. Any well- 
 known good brand of the latter, such as the " Red, 
 White, and Blue," can be used with success according 
 to above directions. Between the result of the 
 above, and the ordinary wish-wash served as coffee, 
 the difference is too great to be expressed. 
 
396 BEVERAGES 
 
 1010. TEA rOR A HEADACHE (Surrey) 
 
 This is a special remedial tea, an expensive one, 
 and not for ordinary use : but it will cure, or amelior- 
 ate, in most oases, the nervous headaches which 
 othervidse yield to nothing. 
 
 Take half a pound of a good Congou blend, about 
 2s. 2d. or 2s. Qd. per pound, such as Ridgway's, 
 two ounces of a good China Tea, not less than 3s. 
 per pound, and one ounce of a good green tea, about 
 4s. &d. per pound. Blend these thoroughly well 
 and keep in a closed tin in a dry place. Do not 
 entrust the making of this (or any other tea) to 
 servants. The " scalding " of the teapot and 
 making of tea with freshly boiling water are 
 essential : and this is just what servants usually 
 ignore. Water that has been boiling some time 
 will not " draw " tea properly : much less so, water 
 that " has boUed," which is too frequently made 
 use of. 
 
 LIQUEURS, CORDIALS, RATAFIAS 
 
 Note. — Those quiet days being long since past, 
 when every well-to-do household possessed a still- 
 room or at least a still, the art of making cordials 
 and liqueurs, so precious to our predecessors, is in 
 danger of being lost for ever. Yet these things are 
 so infinitely preferable, both for health's sake and 
 economy's sake, to the foreign manufactured article, 
 that I cannot shut out a few good old recipes. Not 
 all of them, it will be seen, require a process of dis- 
 tillation ; and in some cases mere filtering through 
 a flannel bag suffices. It is particularly difficult to 
 make a hard-and-fast definition of (A) liqueurs, (B) 
 
BEVERAGES 397 
 
 cordials, and (C) ratafias. Roughly speaking, one 
 may say that (A) Liqueurs are mostly prepared by 
 distillation ; the dry ingredients having to be 
 ground to dust, pestled to a paste, or chopped to 
 minute fragments, and then steeped ia spirit for a 
 month, before proceediag with the individual 
 formula. (B) Cordials are usually not so strong nor 
 so spirituous as liqueurs : they may be prepared 
 by distillation, but are generally infused. The 
 noyeaus in the following pages may be classed as 
 cordials. As for (C) Ratafias, they are, correctly 
 speaking, non-alcoholic infusions of fruit, sweet and 
 syrupy. But the three terms are more or less 
 interchangeable, so that it is hard to say where one 
 begins and another ends. Some twenty years ago 
 it was declared that " there are very few liqueurs 
 which are not as good when made by infusion as 
 they would be by the more tedious process of dis- 
 tillation." Distillation, indeed, is only necessary 
 where the flavouring substance, in the form of 
 essential oil, has a deteriorated flavour. There 
 is certainly no reason or excuse for paying fancy 
 prices, when these excellent Uquids can be produced 
 at home with perfect ease. They are invaluable 
 for flavouring purposes, when not required for 
 beverages. 
 
 The Aqiia Vitce Composita prescription is given 
 chiefly as a curiosity ; but a modification of it, 
 usin^ spirit instead of wine, might conceivably 
 result in a cordial of singular efiicacy. 
 
 1011. ALKERMES (French) 
 Pound one drachm of cardamom seeds, one 
 drachm of nutmegs, two drachms of cinnamon. 
 
398 BEVERAGES 
 
 Infuse in spirit for a week, then strain and filter. 
 Add five drops of attar of rose, and proceed as for 
 any other liqueur. Colour it rose with cochineal. 
 
 1012. ANISEED (1815) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take half a pound of 
 aniseeds, a quarter of a pound of fennel, and three 
 cloves, to be cut in small bits, with a little salt ; 
 put all in the brandy ; it is to be infused twelve 
 hours before you distil it ; two pounds of sugar 
 must be clarified, with the whites of two or three 
 eggs well beaten together, and two bottles and a 
 half of water, and added to the rest. 
 
 1013. ANISETTE (French) 
 
 Take five pints of good spirits of wine, add one 
 and a half drachms of essence (or oil) of aniseed, 
 eight drops of oil of cinnamon, and then add syrup 
 in usual proportion. 
 
 1014. ANGELICA RATAFIA (Surrey) 
 
 Put half a pound of angeHca shoots into two 
 quarts of brandy, with a pint of water, two pounds 
 of sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinnamon. Let 
 the whole infuse for two months in a close vessel, 
 then strain and bottle. This is a very rich and fine 
 cordial. 
 
 1016. APRICOT RATAFIA (Middlesex) 
 
 Cut thirty apricots into small pieces ; crack the 
 stones and take out the kernels, which must be 
 peeled and bruised ; then put the whole together 
 
BEVERAGES 399 
 
 into a jar, with two quarts of good brandy, half a 
 pound of sugar, a little cinnamon, eight cloves, a 
 very small quantity of mace ; close the jar well, 
 and let it remain for three weeks, shaking it fre- 
 quently ; then strain it off into bottles, and keep 
 ia a cool place. 
 
 1016. AQUA VIT^ COMPOSITA (Sixteenth Century) 
 
 Take one gallon of strong French wine, and of 
 sage, mints, red roses, thyme, peUitory, rosemary, 
 wild thyme, camomile, lavender, each a handful. 
 These herbs shall be stamped all together in a mortar, 
 and then put in a clean vessel with a pint of rose- 
 water and a quart of Spanish wine, and closely 
 stoppered and let to stand so three or four days. 
 Then put it into a still and distil it once ; then 
 take your distilled water and pour it back upon 
 the herbs again into the still, and strew upon it 
 these powders following : Cloves and cinnamon, of 
 each half an ounce ; orris, one ounce ; a few maces ; 
 nutmegs, half an ounce ; a little saffron, musk, spike- 
 nard, amber ; and some put camphor in it. Stir all 
 well together, and distil it clean off, till it come fat 
 lik e oil, then get away the distilled water and let 
 it be well kept (in bottles). After that make a 
 strong fire and distil oil of what is left, and receive 
 it in a phial. ("It is wonderful good," adds the 
 old writer.) 
 
 1017. CARAWAY CORDIAL (Surrey) 
 Steep one ounce of caraway seeds in one pint of 
 brandy for a fortnight, then strain off, and add one 
 pint of strong syrup ; mix well, and bottle. Thia 
 makes a warm and pleasant cordial. 
 
400 BEVERAGES 
 
 1018. CHERRY BRANDY (Kent) 
 
 To one pound of black cherries — sticks, stones, 
 and all — put one quart of brandy, or good spirit, 
 and a pound of lump sugar. Let it stand for three 
 weeks, stirring now and then. Strain and bottle. 
 
 1019. CHERRY BRANDY (Middlesex, 1822) 
 
 Stone six pounds of black cherries, pour on them 
 four quarts of the best brandy. Bruise the stones 
 in a mortar, and put the kernels in with the cherries. 
 Cover them close, and let the whole stand for a fort- 
 night ; then squeeze them clean from sediment, 
 through muslin. Boil two pounds of very white 
 sugar to clear syrup ; mix it with the strained 
 liquor, and bottle it into clear dry bottles. It may 
 be used in two months, and should be kept in a 
 cool cellar. 
 
 1020. BLACK CHERRY BRANDY (Yorkshire, 1769) 
 
 Take eight pounds of black cherries, stone them, 
 and put them in a gallon of the best brandy and 
 cover up all close. Let the cherries steep for a 
 month or six weeks, then drain off and bottle it for 
 use. You may distil the liquor if you please. 
 
 1021. LISBON CHERRY BOUNCE (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Six pounds of black cherries, four quarts of rum, 
 three pounds of loaf sugar, half a pound of bitter 
 almonds, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, half a 
 drachm of cinnamon. Dissolve the sugar in the 
 spirit, then add the . other ingredients, and keep 
 
BEVERAGES 401 
 
 them in a well-corked jar or bottle for six months, 
 occasionally shaking the mixture. The fruit is to 
 be strained, and two ounces of gum arable dissolved 
 in a little water may be added to give it the con- 
 sistency of a liqueur. 
 
 1022. CHOCOLATE LIQUEUR (1815) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take one pound of 
 the best chocolate, cut in small bits, a little salt, two 
 cloves, and a little cinnamon ; infuse all in the 
 brandy ; add two pounds of sugar clarified in two 
 and a half pints of water, with whites of eggs, and 
 filter it through a paper. 
 
 1023. CINNAMON WATER (Middlesex) 
 
 Cinnamon water is made by distillation. The 
 cinnamon must be infused for several days in an 
 equal quantity of water and brandy, with some 
 lemon peel and liquorice, and then distiUed, being 
 afterwards sweetened with sugar and filtered. The 
 preparations are : one ounce of cinnamon, two 
 quarts of brandy, a pint of water, the peel of a lemon, 
 and an ounce of fresh liquorice root ; after distillation 
 add a pound of sugar dissolved in a quart of water 
 for each ounce of cinnamon. 
 
 1024. CLOVE WATER (Middlesex) 
 
 Clove water is a fine stomachic, either taken 
 alone or as a vehicle for medicine ; it may be made 
 by infusing bruised cloves in spirits of wine or 
 brandy for a fortnight, and distilling it, then adding 
 six times its quantity of water. 
 26 
 
402 BEVERAGES 
 
 1025. COFFEE LIQUEUR (1815) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take one pound of 
 the best Turkey ground coffee, a little salt, two 
 cloves, and a little cinnamon ; then mix all together 
 for twelve hours before you distil it ; add two pounds 
 of sugar, two bottles and half a pint of water clarified 
 with whites of eggs, filtered through a paper. 
 
 1026. CORIAOTDER CORDIAL (Surrey) 
 
 Take one ounce of coriander seed, a quarter of an 
 ounce of caraway seed, a small piece of cinnamon, 
 and steep them for a fortnight or three weeks in one 
 pint of good brandy. Strain off the Hquor and add 
 to it one pint of good syrup ; mix well, and bottle. 
 
 1027. CORIANDER WATER (Middlesex) 
 
 The best way of using coriander for the kitchen 
 is to bruise two ounces of the seed, and put it 
 into a bottle with four ounces of spirits of wine. 
 This must stand for a fortnight or three weeks, and 
 then be filtered off. A few drops may be used for 
 dislies or pastry, in which coriander seed forms a 
 part of the formula. 
 
 1028. CORNELLA OR CINNAMON CORDIAL (1815) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take four ounces of 
 cinnamon of the best quality, thirty cloves, thirteen 
 coriander seeds, a little salt, mixed all together in 
 brandy, let it infuse for eighteen hours ; take from 
 the still as much as you can ; two pounds of sugar 
 clarified in two bottles and a half of water, with two 
 
BEVERAGES 403 
 
 or three whites of eggs well beaten together, to be 
 mixed with the spirit, and filtered through blotting 
 paper : after you have mixed the spirit, take care 
 to cork your bottles well. 
 
 1029. CURA9AO (Surrey) 
 
 Make a very strong sjnrup, boil in it for five minutes 
 the juice and rind of four large oranges and three 
 bitter ones. Strain and filter it, add six drops of 
 cinnamon and six drops of neroU. 
 
 1030. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Infuse the peel of four bitter oranges in some 
 spirit and syrup for a week, flavour with cinnamon, 
 cloves, or mace, strain off, and add to the rest of the 
 spirit and syrup ; i.e. there should be about one- 
 third spirit to nearly two-thirds of syrup. 
 
 1031. HAWTHORN BRANDY (Middlesex, 1822) 
 
 Put as much fuU blossom of the white thorn 
 (hawthorn), picked dry and clean from leaves and 
 stalks, as a great bottle will hold lightly, without 
 pressing down. Fill it up with French brandy, let 
 it stand two or three weeks, then decant it off 
 clear, and add as much sugar as may make it of a 
 proper sweetness. 
 
 1032. HAWTHORN BRANDY (Surrey) 
 
 Take a large bottle, fiU it three-parts fuU with haw- 
 thorn petals, picked when the day is dry and sunny 
 (putting the flowers only, not the stalks), and fiU up 
 with brandy. Let them infuse for about five or 
 
404 BEVERAGES 
 
 six weeks, then strain off the hquid into a clean 
 bottle, and cork up well. This imparts a delicious 
 flavouring to puddings, etc. 
 
 1033. LOVAGE (Surrey) 
 
 Take five drachms each of oil of nutmeg and oil of 
 cassia, and mix with three drachms oil of caraway 
 in one quart of the best spirits of wine. It should 
 be thoroughly well mixed and shaken. Then you 
 put this to two gallons of spirits of wiae, and pour 
 it into a ten-gallon cask. Take twenty pounds of 
 lump sugar dissolved in hot water, mix into this 
 a quarter of a pint of colouring of any kind preferred, 
 pour all into the cask, fill up with water, and pour 
 it in while hot ; lastly add one ounce of salts of 
 tartar, and let the whole be well mixed and stirred. 
 
 1034. NOYEAU (1822) 
 
 The following recipe wiU furnish a liqueur in no 
 way inferior to the veritable Martinique at not half 
 the cost of the foreign article. (Smaller quantities 
 may be made in proportionate admixture.) Blanch 
 and pound one pound of bitter almonds, half a 
 pound of sweet almonds, and two ounces of cassia 
 huds, separately. Put them with two gallons of 
 British gin into a barrel, and shake it every day for 
 a fortnight. Then make a syrup of twelve pounds 
 of sugar and three quarts of water, and put it into 
 the barrel mUk-warm. Add three quarts of spirits 
 of wine, one pint ratafia, four ounces of orange- 
 flower water, the juice of two lemons, and a piece of 
 calcined alum, about the size of a walnut. Then 
 
BEVERAGES 405 
 
 add half an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in half a 
 pint of gin, reserved from the two gallons for that 
 purpose. Shake the barrel only once afterwards, 
 let the whole remain three or four days, and then 
 filter it through an earthenware colander, with 
 filtering paper laid on it, changing the paper every 
 time it is empty. In two days and nights, sixteen 
 clear quarts will be produced. When bottling, dip 
 the corks in melted resin. 
 
 1035. NOYEAU (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Put six ounces of bitter almonds, blanched and 
 cut, into two quarts of English gin ; keep it in a 
 moderate heat three days, shaking it well. Add two 
 pounds of good loaf sugar, just melted in boiling 
 water ; let it stand for twenty-four hours longer, 
 frequently shaking the bottle. FUter it through 
 double blotting paper, and it is fit for use. 
 
 1036. NOYEAU (Kent) 
 
 To a quart of reduced spirits put three-quarters of 
 a pound of loaf sugar, one and a half ounces bitter, 
 and the same of sweet, almonds, powdered very 
 fine, and four tablespoonfuls boiled milk. To be 
 shaken every day for twenty-one days, then filtered 
 through blotting paper ; and it will be fit for use. 
 
 1037. NOYEAU (Lancashire) 
 
 Take two quarts of rum, the juice of three lemons, 
 three pounds of double-refined sugar, two ounces 
 of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter almonds, 
 beat fine. Put the above ingredients into a deep 
 covered pot, pour two quarts of new milk and one 
 
406 BEVERAGES 
 
 of water boiling hot upon them, let it stand four or 
 five days, stirring it two or three times a day. Run 
 it through a flannel and bottle it for use. 
 
 1038. NOYEAU (Middlesex) 
 
 Collect the kernels of peach, apricot, and plum 
 stones. Bruise them and put them to steep in 
 strong spirits of wine, for a fortnight or three weeks. 
 To, say, three ounces of kernels, use half a pint of 
 spirit. About half a dozen blanched bitter almonds 
 may be added, but not more, as they contain so 
 much prussic acid. Make a syrup of one pound 
 of sugar with as much water as will yield about one 
 pint of syrup when boiled ; when this is cold, add a 
 pint of good white French brandy (or spirits of wine 
 can be used instead, but brandy is best), using as 
 much of the kernel tincture (strained off) as will 
 impart the right flavour. You must add the tincture 
 very carefully and slowly, and taste it from time to 
 time. If you want pink noyeau, boil some crushed 
 cochineal in a little water, and strain it off, and add 
 it drop by drop to the liqueur. 
 
 1039. OIL OF ROSES (Surrey) 
 
 This is a very nice liqueur. To three quarts of 
 white brandy, put three pounds of roses with the 
 best scent ; add one pint of water, let them infuse 
 for a week in a jar, and then distil. After distilling, 
 add a syrup of two pounds of sugar dissolved in three 
 pints of water, and a Uttle filtered cochineal for 
 colouring. 
 
BEVERAGES 407 
 
 1040. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Put a few drops of attar of roses, according to 
 taste, into a quart of good spirits of wine. Add the 
 same quantity of strong syrup, and colour with a 
 little tincture of cochineal. 
 
 1041. OIL OF ROSES (French) 
 
 Make a syrup of one pound of sugar, with as 
 much water only as wiU, when boiled, yield about 
 one pint of syrup. When this is quite cold, add 
 one pint of good white French brandy, and about 
 ten drops of attar of roses, colouring it a rich pink 
 by a tincture which may be made by boiling some 
 crushed cochineal in a Uttle water, and straining 
 it off. 
 
 1042. PERFETTO AMORE (1816) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, peel six large and fresh 
 lemons ; the peels are to be very thin, cut in small 
 bits, and put in the brandy with a little salt, half a 
 handful of currants, five coriander seeds, five cloves, 
 and a little cinnamon ; the whole to be infused 
 together for twelve hours, from which draw off only 
 two bottles of spirit ; then add two pounds of 
 sugar, boUed and clarified in two bottles of water 
 with three eggs ; take a little rock alum, which 
 you must mix in a little boUiag water, and a little 
 cream of tartar, mix them in a small mortar, and 
 add to the liquor ; (but first you are to strain it) ; 
 then mix them all together, and filter it through 
 blotting-paper. 
 
408 BEVERAGES 
 
 1043. PERSICO (1815) 
 
 For four bottles of brandy, take four handfuls of 
 bitter almonds of the best quality, and very fresh ; 
 they are to be cut in small bits, with a little salt, 
 two cloves, and a little cinnamon ; put all in the 
 brandy, and infuse them for twenty hours ; add 
 two bottles of spirit, two pounds of sugar, with two 
 bottles of water, without clarifying it, as this liquor 
 will clarify itself. 
 
 1044. PINEAPPLE LIQUEUR 
 
 Scrape one and a half pounds of pineapple into 
 the spirit which is to be used, let it infuse for a 
 week ; then drain it off and add the syrup. 
 
 1045. MILK PUNCH (1815) 
 
 Take two gallons and a half of French brandy, 
 and infuse in it for one night the outer rind of fifteen 
 lemons, and as many oranges pared very thin ; add 
 to it the juice of the before-mentioned quantity of 
 fruit, and fifteen quarts of cold water that has been 
 boiled, seven pounds and a half of fine loaf sugar, 
 and half a pint of milk ; let them be well mixed 
 and stand till cold ; then add a bottle of Jamaica 
 rum, put it into a cask the proper size, and stop it 
 up close for a month or six weeks. N.B. — Take 
 out the lemon and orange peel before you add the 
 juice of the fruit and the water. 
 
 1046. TO MAKE ANY KIND OP LIQUEUR (Surrey) 
 All cloves, cinnamon, mace, or other dry ingre- 
 dients must be finely ground or grated. All leaves, 
 
BEVERAGES 409 
 
 flowers, peels, or rinds, must be cut or shredded as 
 small as possible. All kernels or almonds must be 
 pounded into a paste in a mortar, a very small 
 quantity of spirits being added at the time. The 
 ingredients, whatever they are, should then be 
 soaked in the spirit (spirits of wine or brandy) for 
 a month in a warm place, shaking up the mixture 
 every day. The spirit is then poured off, and water 
 added (when directed in a recipe). After a few days 
 more, the Uquid is pressed out and mixed with the 
 spirits ; sugar and colouring matter is added (see 
 "Syrup," No. 1050), and the liquid is strained 
 through a flannel bag. Good French brandy is 
 always preferable even to the best spirits of wine. 
 
 1047. TO MAKE ANY KIND OF RATAFIA (Surrey) 
 
 The best fruits to use are red currants, black cur- 
 rants, raspberries, mulberries, or cherries. Press 
 out two quarts of juice of the fruit, let it stand for 
 twenty-four hours in a cold place, then skim it, 
 and add two quarts of good brandy, two pounds of 
 sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinnamon. Mix it 
 well, and put it into a stone bottle, where it must 
 stand, well corked, for a month. Then pour off 
 and bottle it. 
 
 1048. RASPBERRY RATAFIA (Middlesex) 
 
 Stand two quarts of raspberry juice in a cold 
 place for twenty-four hours. Then skim it, and mix 
 in two quarts of good brandy, two pounds of sugar, 
 and a Uttle cinnamon and cloves. Put it in a stone 
 bottle, and keep it well corked for a month, then 
 pour off and bottle it. 
 
410 BEVERAGES 
 
 1049. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Take the juice of three pounds of raspberries (or 
 strawberries) straia and filter it : boil it for a few 
 minutes with one and half pounds of sugar. 
 
 1050. RATAFIA OF ROSES (Middlesex) 
 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of rose leaves in a 
 pint of lukewarm water ; let them lie for two days 
 and then press them through a cloth ; add as much 
 brandy as there may be infusion, and a thick syrup, 
 made in the proportion of half a pound of sugar to a 
 quart of the above liquid, and a little coriander 
 seed, mace, and cinnamon ; let them infuse for a 
 fortnight, and then filter. 
 
 1051. SYRUP FOR RATAFIAS, ETC. (Surrey) 
 
 To make a strong syrup, you merely add just as 
 much water as will cover your sugar in the pan, 
 and boil it gently for a long time, removing the scum 
 as long as it rises. The stronger the syrup is to be, 
 the longer it must simmer. When cool, put it by 
 in bottles for use. When it is wanted to be very 
 clear, you add beaten whites of eggs to the syrup 
 while it is hot, and mix them well in, and strain 
 through a jelly-bag. The straining is not absolutely 
 necessary : a quicker method is used in France, as 
 follows : 
 
 For ten bottles of any syrup, take seven pounds 
 of sugar, break it into small bits, dissolve it in six 
 pints of cold water, then filter it carefully. Mean- 
 while, mix your essences and colouring with five 
 pints of good spirits of wine, and add the syrup by 
 
BEVERAGES 411 
 
 small quantities at a time, stirring all the while ; 
 then filter the whole. This method does not give, 
 however, the oily appearance which is desirable in 
 liqueurs. 
 
 1052. RATAPIA (1822) 
 
 Boil equal quantities of gooseberries and sugar 
 into a thick jelly, over which a sufficient quantity of 
 white wine must be poured, and suffered to remain 
 for some time. Press out and filter the mixture, and 
 add half the quantity of brandy, with any spices 
 that may be agreeable. 
 
 1053. ROSOLIO (French) 
 
 Put one drachm of vamlla into about half a pint 
 of the spirit to be used. Let it stand a week, then 
 strain and filter it. Use this hquor with six drops 
 of neroU and five drops of attar of roses. Boil the 
 syrup before mixing, with the juice of six oranges 
 and one ounce of syrup of capillaire. Then filter 
 and mix with the spirit. 
 
 (The rosoho specially prepared for Louis XIV., 
 said to be called thus from ros solis, dew of the sun, 
 was made with equal quantities of brandy and 
 Spanish wine, in which were infused angelica, anise, 
 fennel, citron, coriander, and sugar-candy, boiled 
 to a syrup in camomile water. Ed.) 
 
 1064. SLOE GIN (Essex) 
 
 Into one quart of best gin put one and a half 
 pints of ripe sloes (some of them bruised), three- 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and haK an ounce 
 of bitter almonds (blanched and split). Cover the 
 
412 BEVERAGES 
 
 vessel containing the cordial closely, and leave it 
 six months, stirring the contents occasionally, then 
 strain off the liquor and bottle for use. 
 
 1055. VESPETRO (French) 
 
 Take equal quantities of angelica seed, aniseed, 
 fennel seed, and coriander seed. Put them in to 
 steep in white brandy or spirits of wine for about a 
 month. Shake the bottle from time to time. Then 
 filter the infusion and add a mixture of strong 
 syrup (about two-thirds) and spirit (about half), 
 but do not drown the flavour with syrup, as this 
 is a stomachic and medicinal cordial. 
 
 1056. ANOTHER WAY 
 
 Three ounces of angelica seed, two ounces of 
 coriander seed, half an ounce each of aniseed and 
 fennel seed, six ounces each of sliced oranges and 
 lemons. Proceed as above. 
 
 1057. HUILE DB VIOLETTES (French) 
 
 Boil three ounces of dried violets for two minutes 
 with water and sugar ; strain and filter, and add to 
 the spirits and syrup. 
 
CHAPTER XXI 
 
 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT 
 COOKERY 
 
 Note. — For the fastidious invalid, if the truth be 
 told, our robust predecessors did not take much 
 care to cater. If an unhappy wight should suffer 
 loss of appetite and turn with disgust from ordinary 
 palatable food — well, it was unfortunate, but un- 
 avoidable. There were certain " possets " and 
 broths and gruels provided for such unfit folk ; but 
 the real regard to sick fare is of comparatively recent 
 growth ; and hence the recipes under this heading 
 are not numerous ; some, indeed, are quite of modem 
 date. Such as they are, they are peculiarly good, 
 and the " Jaunemange " and " Salisbury Minced 
 Beef " are worth their weight in gold, as countless 
 convalescents can bear witness. 
 
 1058. ARROWBOOT BLANCMANGE (Kent) 
 
 One pint of milk, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla to 
 taste, all boiled together; blend a tablespoonful 
 of arrowroot with some cold milk, then pour it into 
 the milk that is boiling, give it a few minutes' boil, 
 and pour it into a shape, 
 
 413 
 
414 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 
 
 1059. ARROWROOT JELLY (Middlesex) 
 
 Pound three bitter almonds, and put them with 
 the peel of a lemon into a large wineglass! ul of water, 
 and let them steep therein for four or five hours ; 
 then strain the liquid, and mix it with four table- 
 spoonfuls of arrowroot, an equal quantity of lemon- 
 juice, and two tablespoonfuls of brandy ; sweeten to 
 taste, and stir it over the fire until it becomes quite 
 thick. When cold, put it in jelly-glasses, and set by 
 in a cool place. 
 
 1060. "SALISBURY" MINCED BEEF FOR IN- 
 VALIDS OR CONVALESCENTS 
 
 One pound of lean rump steak (this will make 
 two meals). Remove all fat, skin, and gristle. Put 
 it three times through a mincer, and then into a 
 small saucepan, with just enough water to cover it, 
 and a httle salt. When it turns from red to brown 
 (simmering very slowly and never coming anywhere 
 near boiling), it is done enough. Serve some in a 
 hot soup-dish, with bread or bread and butter. 
 The remainder can be reheated once, but not twice ; 
 if any is left the second time, it must be eaten cold. 
 To beat it with a fork while cooking, improves it. 
 
 106L CHICKEN PANADA (Cheshire) 
 
 Cut up the meat from which chicken broth has 
 been made, pound it in a mortar if obtainable, or 
 roll it with a rolling-pin. Put it in a pan on the fire 
 with a little milk and salt ; stir it, but do not let it 
 boil. Add a few bread crumbs to thicken it; stir 
 in one whole egg to each quarter of a fowl. It may 
 
INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 415 
 
 be used either as spoon-meat when hot, or made into 
 little balls and served in the chicken broth. It will 
 keep good for some days. 
 
 1062. WHITE-OF-EGG FLIP (Surrey) 
 
 This is a doctor's recipe for a nourishing pick-me- 
 up, of which a spoonful or two can be taken at odd 
 moments. It has the advantage of utiKsing the 
 whites of eggs left over from the Jaunemange. 
 Beat three whites to a stiff froth ; add (for colour 
 and flavour) a teaspoonful of good strawberry jam, 
 and beat it well in ; lastly, beat in one dessert- 
 spoonful of brandy. Brandy, by the way, should 
 here be regarded purely as medicine, and as you 
 would not willingly administer cheap medicine to 
 an invalid, procure the best cognac that your means 
 will allow. It pays in the long run. 
 
 1063. JAUNEMANGE (Hampshire) 
 
 Take one ounce of Swinborne's isinglass, put it 
 into a jar or basin, pour half a pint of cold water 
 over it, add the rind of a large lemon cut very thinly. 
 Let it stand for at least ten minutes. Then add to it 
 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the juice of one and 
 a half lemons, a tablespoonful of brandy, and a wine- 
 glassful of sherry. If no sherry is added, put a little 
 more water, the yolks of four fresh eggs well-beaten, 
 and half a pint of boiling water. The whole to be 
 very well mixed, care being taken that the eggs do 
 not " break." Now stand the jar in a pan of boiling 
 water, and let the jaunemange just nearly come to 
 the boil ; it needs careful attention and stirring. 
 
416 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 
 
 When the ingredients are quite melted, take out the 
 lemon-peel. Lift the jaunemange out and stand 
 it in a bowl of cold water to set, or in a cool place. 
 Or pour it off, when a little cool, into a mould. This 
 is an exceedingly nourishing and strengthening 
 preparation, and can be taken at any time, a few 
 teaspoonfuls being sufficient. It is so pleasant to 
 the taste, and so unlike anything else, that the 
 most fastidious invalid will hardly refuse it. In 
 cases involving diarrhoea, the lemon-juice had better 
 be omitted. '^ 
 
 1064. BEEF JELLY (Surrey) 
 Take a small knuckle of veal, break it into small 
 pieces, and let it soak two hours in two pints of 
 cold water. Then boil it till reduced to a pint. 
 Strain it. Take one pound of lean beef, remove aU 
 skin and fat, and scrape or finely mince it. Let 
 it stand in a jar in one pint of cold water for one hour. 
 Then cover the jar and put it in a saucepan of cold 
 water, and let it warm very slowly till it simmers. 
 Then strain it, add the veal stock and a Httle pepper 
 and salt, and pour off into a mould to cool. 
 
 1065. BREAD JELLY (Kent, 1809) 
 Take a penny French roll, cut it in thin slices, and 
 toast it a pale brown, boil it in a quart of water 
 till it comes to a pint, then strain it, and add wine 
 and sugar to your taste. 
 
 1066. CLARET JELLY (Kent) 
 Take one bottle of claret, ten ounces of loaf 
 sugar, a one pound pot of red currant jelly, the peel 
 
INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 417 
 
 and juice of one lemon, and a quarter of an ounce 
 of best isinglass. Let this simmer for a few minutes, 
 and add half a wineglassful of brandy, and strain 
 through muslin into a mould. 
 
 1067. PORT WINE JELLY (Sussex) 
 
 One ounce of isinglass, one ounce of gum arable, 
 three ounces of sugar-candy, one pint of port wine. 
 Soak the dry ingredients in the wine all night, then 
 let all simmer for half an hour. 
 
 1068. PORT WINE JELLY (Kent, 1809) 
 
 One ounce of gum arable, one ounce of isinglass, a 
 little spice, boiled half an hour in a pint of cold 
 water, then add a pint and a quarter of old port 
 wine and sugar to your taste. Let it simmer a 
 quarter of an hour, strain it off, and keep it for use. 
 It may be taken cold or hot. 
 
 1069. RESTORATIVE JELLY (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a quart of water, 
 let it simmer gently till reduced to a pint, then add 
 half a pound of fine loaf sugar. When dissolved, 
 strain it off, and put it into a pudding-dish in the 
 cellar till cold. To be taken in the quantity neces- 
 sary to sweeten any liquid such as tea, etc. 
 
 1070. STRENGTHENING JELLY (Kent, 1809) 
 
 One ounce of best isinglass, one ounce of gum 
 
 arable, infused together in haK a pint of (either) 
 
 Tent, Mountain, or Calcavella, for twenty-four hours, 
 
 then add one ounce of brown sugar-candy pulverised ; 
 
 27 
 
418 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 
 
 these are to be simmered and (to prevent burning) 
 must be constantly stirred^ until the whole is dis- 
 solved. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and 
 when cold it becomes a stiff jelly. A piece the size 
 of a large nutmeg to be taken two or three times a 
 day, or at night, according as it agrees. 
 
 1071. PORT WINE LOZENGES (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Take two ounces of isinglass and half an ounce of 
 gum arable. Steep them all night in a pint of port 
 wine ; then put them in a saucepan, with two ounces 
 of brown sugar-candy and half a nutmeg grated. 
 Simmer them together till quite dissolved, strain 
 through a hair sieve, and pour on clean plates to 
 harden. Cut it in pieces, and take a piece the size 
 of a nutmeg three times a day. 
 
 INVALID BEVERAGES 
 
 1072. APPLE BARLEY-WATER (Cheshire) 
 
 Add to one pint of the above half a pound of 
 apples, cut in slices, with the sldn on, removing only 
 the pips ; cut a lemon in slices, boil gently till the 
 apples are done, and pass through a colander. 
 
 1073. APPLE TOAST-AND-WATER (Cheshire) 
 
 Bake an apple with a little brown sugar over it, 
 and add to the toast-and-water. It will be ready 
 in an hour. A little lemon or orange-peel is an im- 
 provement. 
 
INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 419 
 
 1074. AROMATIC BARLEY-WATEK (Cheshire) 
 
 Take one quart of barley-water, boil it down to 
 one-third. Add to it, while it is hot, a pint of sherry, 
 one drachm of tincture of cinnamon, and one ounce 
 of sugar. Three ounces of this can be taken two 
 or three times a day. A good cordial. 
 
 1075. PEARL BARLEY-WATER (Cheshire) 
 
 Wash two ounces of pearl-barley well in cold 
 water. Add about one and a half pints of water, a 
 little lemon peel, and sugar to taste. Let it simmer, 
 stirring it often till it is of a nice thickness. Strain 
 and add lemon juice. A few sweet almonds beaten 
 to a paste will give a pleasant flavour. 
 
 1076. BEEF TEA (Lancashire) 
 One pound of gravy beef, one pint of cold water, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt. Shred meat finely, place 
 in an earthenware jar, add the water and salt. 
 Cover closely. Place jar in a saucepan of boiling 
 water, or in the oven, and cook for three hours. Stir 
 occasionally. 
 
 1077. GOOD COOLING DRINK (Cheshire) 
 
 Take half an ounce of cream of tartar, the strained 
 juice of one lemon, two tablespoonfuls of honey, one 
 quart of boiling water. Cover up till cold. 
 
 1078. IMPERIAL (Surrey) 
 
 Put two drachms of cream of tartar, the juice of 
 one lemon, and a little peel, into a jug ; pour on them 
 one quart of boiling water ; sweeten to taste. Stir, 
 and cover close till cold. 
 
420 INVALID AND CONVALESCENT COOKERY 
 
 1079. LIVELY IMPERIAL (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Two ounces of cream of tartar, two pounds of 
 lump sugar, four lemons sliced. Put them in a pan. 
 Two gallons of boiling water must be poured over 
 the above. When near cold, add two dessert- 
 spoonfuls of yeast. Let it stand two days, and then 
 strain and bottle it. Cork it close, and in three days 
 it will be fit for use. 
 
 1080. QUIET IMPERIAL (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Seven quarts of water, two ounces of cream of 
 tartar, the peel of two or three lemons. Boil it 
 just to simmer, then take it off, and pour it on a 
 pound of sugar and let it stand till the next day. 
 
 1081. SAGO POSSET (Cheshire) 
 
 Boil three ounces of sago in a quart of water, 
 till a mucilage is formed. Rub half an ounce of loaf 
 sugar on the rind of a lemon, and put it, with a tea- 
 spoonful of ginger tincture, into half a pint of sherry. 
 Add to this the sago mucilage, and boil the whole 
 for five minutes. This is an excellent cordial, where 
 acute diseases (not of an inflammatory kind) have 
 left the patient in a state of debiUty. A httle may 
 be taken at a time, every four or five hours 
 
CHAPTER XXII 
 
 VARIOUS 
 
 This final section includes such recipes as do not fall 
 with accuracy under any of the previous headings, 
 but are too useful to leave out. 
 
 1082. BREAD CRUMBS FOR ROAST GAME (Surrey) 
 
 Put some stale white bread through a coarse sieve, 
 and fry the crumbs in fresh butter, enough to saturate 
 them well. Turn and stir them in the pan tiU they 
 are a nice hght brown, but not too brown ; drain 
 them on a sieve before the fire. 
 
 1083. TO PRESERVE BUTTER (Ireland) 
 
 Take two parts of the best common salt, one part 
 sugar, and one part saltpetre. Beat them up to- 
 gether, and blend the whole completely. Take one 
 ounce of this composition for every sixteen ounces 
 of butter. Work it well into the mass, and close 
 it up for use. Butter thus cured requires to stand 
 a month before it is begun to be used ; it will then 
 be delicious. 
 
 421 
 
422 VARIOUS 
 
 1084. TO PRESERVE BUTTER FIRM IN 
 
 SUMMER (Kent) 
 
 Get a large bowl, and fill it with silver sand, 
 leaving a hole in the centre, in which stand a smaller 
 bowl with your butter in. Keep the sand just moist 
 with cold water, and your butter will remain firm 
 in the hottest weather. 
 
 1085. RICE FOR CURRY (Middlesex) 
 
 The rice to be served with curry should be of the 
 best quahty, and should be washed perfectly clean ; 
 it may be then boiled in a bag, or as follows : — 
 BoU half a pound of rice for about twenty minutes 
 in one quart of cold water, then put it to drain in a 
 sieve, after which dry it before the fire to get rid 
 of all superfluous moisture, stirring from time to 
 time, and serve very hot. 
 
 1086. CURRY POWDER (Kent, 1809) 
 
 Coriander seed, six ounces ; cummin seed, one and 
 half oimces ; fenugreek seed, one and a half ounces ; 
 turmeric root, three ounces. To be made into a 
 fine powder, with the addition of cayenne to your 
 taste. 
 
 1087. CURRY POWDER (Middlesex) 
 
 Pound six ounces of coriander seed, three ounces 
 of black pepper, and one and a half ounces of fenu- 
 greek seed, one ounce of cummin seed, three ounces 
 of turmeric, and three-quarters of an ounce of cayenne : 
 sift through muslin, and dry it thoroughly for 
 several hours before the fire, stirring repeatedly ; 
 
VARIOUS 423 
 
 then bottle, and cork very tightly. If the powder 
 be made for the use of persons who have lived much 
 in India, and been accustomed to eat curry there, 
 the quantity of cayenne should be increased to an 
 ounce, or even one and a quarter ounces. Another 
 preparation of curry is made by omitting the cori- 
 ander seed, doubling the quantity of turmeric, and 
 substituting for the coriander two ounces of ginger : 
 in fact, if turmeric and cayenne be made the basis of 
 the powder, the other ingredients may be varied 
 according to taste. 
 
 1088. IRISH FADGE 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of milk and three ounces 
 of butter together over the fire. Then take four 
 ounces of whole brown meal — (wheaten meal) and 
 pour in the milk and butter to a hole in the middle 
 of the meal. Knead it well and roll it out to about 
 three-quarters of an inch thick. Bake on a griddle, 
 turning it often to prevent burning. Time, one hour. 
 
 1089. MOCK ICE (Middlesex) 
 
 You can make a sort of mock ice, by mixing half 
 a pint of water, in which rather more than a quarter 
 of an ounce of isinglass has been boiled, with a pint 
 of cream and a sufficient quantity of sugar, and the 
 juice of any fruit ; the mixture must be made before 
 the solution of isinglass is quite cold. If you have 
 any ice at hand, this mixture can be set in a mould 
 in some vessel, and surrounded with ice ; or if there 
 be none, put it in the coldest situation possible. 
 The sohd appearance given to the mixture, when 
 
424 VARIOUS 
 
 cold, by the isinglass, causes this to be a pretty good 
 imitation of an ice, if it can be made quite cold. 
 
 1090. LIME WATER FOR PRESERVING EGGS 
 (Yorkshire) 
 
 Take one pound of stone lime, two handfuls of 
 salt, two gallons of water. The water to be boiling, 
 and poured upon the lime and salt, and to be stirred 
 every day. In a fortnight it is ready for use. 
 Be careful the eggs are not cracked. 
 
 1091. MUSTARD (Seventeenth Century) 
 Dry your mustard seed very well, then beat it by 
 little and little at a time in a mortar, and sift it. 
 Then put the powder in a gallipot, and wet it very 
 well with vinegar ; put in a whole onion peeled 
 but not cut, a little pepper and salt, and a lump 
 of sugar. 
 
 1092. ANOTHER WAY 
 Take horseradish roots and make them very dv} 
 in an oven, then beat them to powder. And when 
 you would use any, wet it with wine vinegar, and 
 so it will rather be better than the other. 
 
 1093. MUSTARD (Surrey) 
 If mustard be mixed, first with the merest drop of 
 water, and then with tarragon vinegar, it will have 
 a pleasant^ pungency and piquancy which gives a 
 relish to every dish. This is half the secret of French 
 mustard^which is also much milder than ours, and 
 occasionally, I believe, has a dash of flour put in, 
 beside other ingredients. 
 
VARIOUS 425 
 
 1094. PORRIDGE (Ireland) 
 
 Irish porridge is particularly good, being made of 
 specially fragrant oatmeal. Boil a quart of water 
 with a large teaspoonful of salt in it. When boiling, 
 pour in one and a half teacupfuls of meal (more or 
 less according to taste), without stirring at all, and 
 keep it gently boiling twenty to thirty minutes ; 
 then stir well, and serve in bowl or porridge plate 
 (like small soup plate), very hot. It should be taken 
 with cold milk, and, if liked, a small piece of butter 
 in the middle of the plate. A double saucepan 
 should be used. In England, sugar is used, and 
 stirring. There is no need for the latter, as, if not 
 stirred at first, the porridge will not burn, just like 
 rice. 
 
 1095. POT-POURRI (1822) 
 
 Take one pound each of orange flowers and of com- 
 mon rose leaves, half a pound of the flowers of red 
 pinks, leaves and flowers of myrtle ; flowers of musk 
 roses, leaves of thyme, lavender, rosemary, sage, 
 camomile, melilot, hyssop, sweet basil, and balm, 
 two ounces of each ; two or three handfuls of jessa- 
 mine flowers, a large handful of lemon rinds, cut 
 as thin as possible ; the same quantity of rinds of 
 small green oranges (tangerines), and fifteen or 
 twenty laurel leaves. Put them all into a well- 
 headed earthen jar, with half a poxind of bay salt, 
 and stir the whole carefully with a wooden spatula, 
 or spoon, twice a day for a month. Then add 
 Florentine white orris and benzoin, of each twelve 
 ounces ; powdered cloves and cinnamon, two ounces. 
 of each ; mace, storax, calamus aromaticus, and 
 
426 VARIOUS 
 
 cypress, of each one ounce ; lemon-coloured sandal, 
 and long sweet cypress, of each six drachms. Stir 
 all together, and if the proportions be carefuUy 
 attended to, according to the above directions, a 
 most delightful compound of fine odours will be 
 obtained, in which no one scent will predominate, 
 while the fragrance of the whole will remain unim- 
 paired for a great number of years. 
 
 1096. ROSE-WATER (Surrey) 
 
 Gather the rose-leaves very dry, add a quart of 
 water to every four pounds of petals, and place them 
 with a handful of salt, in a closely stoppered vessel. 
 Leave them so for three days, stirring them well at 
 least once a day : at the end of that time, distil the 
 mixture, take care to line the bottom of the still with 
 a sufficient amount of clean straw to keep the 
 flowers from burning, and leave a space of at least 
 one-third in the still. For every twelve pounds of 
 flowers you put in, add six quarts of water ; and 
 when, for every twelve pounds, three quarts have 
 been drawn off, stop distilling. A very much 
 stronger rose-water is made thus : Take thirty 
 pounds of rose-leaves, gathered before sunrise, 
 crush them in a large mortar, and put them into a 
 jar, with four pounds of common salt, in alternate 
 layers of roses and sprinkled salt. Press them down 
 well, and cover the jar so that no perfume can 
 escape. When they have macerated for twelve 
 days, distil them with a sharp heat, protecting them 
 carefully as described above. The result of this dis- 
 tillation will be small in quantity, but rich in quality. 
 
VARIOUS 427 
 
 1097. HINTS ON STORAGE (Surrey) 
 
 It is advisable to keep all groceries in closed tins 
 or jars, not in paper or cardboard : the drier articles 
 in tins ; the moister, such as raisins, etc., in jars. 
 It is essential that all store-provisions should be 
 kept covered, otherwise they accumulate dust and 
 germs, and become really imfit for use, even though 
 they may not appear so. This is a fact which no 
 servant can get into her head, and which requires 
 constant attention. 
 
 Stock should be boiled (not merely warmed up) 
 every day. Dripping should be examined and 
 clarified at least twice a week in warm weather. 
 Pieces of bread should be utilised, so far as possible, 
 day by day ; the crumb can be sieved, dried in the 
 oven, and kept in a closed tin for use in frying fish, 
 etc., but it will not keep too long. The crust can be 
 soaked overnight, when sufiicient has been col- 
 lected, for use in a bread pudding. Those who keep 
 fowls, or pigs, have no need of instruction in the 
 disposal of their odds and ends. 
 
 MADE GRAVIES AND SAUCES 
 
 A few drops of Lea & Perrins' Sauce make an 
 excellent flavouring for soups, stews, gravies, minced 
 meat,, etc., and harmonise well with any other flavour- 
 ing agent that may be used. 
 
 FISH SAUCES 
 A good proprietory sauce should always be kept in 
 the house. One that goes well with any kind of fish 
 is Lea & Perrins', which has the advantage of being an 
 all-roand sauce, suitable for hot and cold meats, soaps, 
 stews, etc. 
 
PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY 
 
 HAZELL, WAVSON AND VINEY, LD., 
 
 LONDON AND AYLESBURY. 
 
NEVILL'S 
 
 TURKISH BATHS 
 
 lie. 
 
 ch, London 
 
 >echapel. 
 
 Brroad"streetrctty. 
 Basinghall St., and Cqleman St 
 
 LADIES. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue. 
 7. Commercial Road, East. 
 
 LADIES and GENTLEMEN. 
 54, York Terrace, Marylebone 
 Road. 
 
 Electric and Light Baths, Vibro-Massage, etc. 
 
 OENTLEIMEN. . LADIES. 
 
 Northumberland Avenue. I 54, York Terrace, Marylebone Rd. 
 
 Sulphur and Medicated Baths. 
 
 LADIES and GENTLEMEN.— 54, York Terrace, Marylebone Road. 
 
 DOUCHES. CHIROPODY. STEAM ROOMS. 
 
 TWELVE CHILDREN IN ONE FAMILY 
 
 all brought up on 
 
 ROBINSON'S ■■'^'' BARLEY 
 
 (with cow's milk) 
 
 Mrs. A. C. Goodall, 12, Mount Ash Road, Sydenham Hill, S.E., 
 wrote on 12/3/12: **1 am the mother of eleven children and 
 have brought them all up on Robinson's 'Patent' Barley since 
 they were a fortnight old t they were all fine healthy babies. 
 My baby now is just seven weeks old, and improves daily." 
 
 Since the above was written, Mrs. Goodall's family iias received 
 
 anotlier increase, and the new baby Is also being reared 
 
 on ROBINSON'S "Patent" BARLEY. 
 
 MANY PRIZE BABIES HAVE BEEN BROUGHT UP ON 
 THIS SPLENDID FOOD, AND HUNDREDS OF LETTERS 
 ARE RECEIVED EVERY YEAR TESTIFYING TO THE 
 EXCELLENT RESULTS OBTAINED BY ITS USE. 
 
 Send tor Free Booklet "ADVICE TO M09HERS." 
 
 Dept. H. & S. N. 
 
 KEEN, ROBINSON & CO., LTD., LONDON