MBliliiaijj);;;;, MM*»»»«»«l'«»IM***»'«*VPM'«t»*SMS1tS KT Hl*^i 'at •■&• 'i(> m TC t# ^ lw!r';.'#;lw?fTf'['i ^tatc (501160^ nf Agriculture At (Qotnell Unioetaitii Cornell University Library HD9321.5.L4 Canned foods; how to buy, how to sell, st 3 1924 013 852 326 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924013852326 RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED TO The National Canners' Association The National Wholesale Grocers' Association The Southern Wholesale Grocers' Association The National Canned Food and Dried Fruit Brokers' Association The Grocery and Canning Trade Press OF THE UNITED STATES PREFACE Several years ago I began to write and manifold a series of lectures for the information of about one hundred traveling and city salesmen employed by a large wholesale grocery house. For this house I was then a department manager and buyer. Some copies of these lectures were sent to personal friends. Soon requests for the series began to be received from them and their friends. I then printed on a multigraph several hundred sets of the series and distributed them to those wholesale grocers who sub- scribed for them. Apparently this did not satisfy the demand, as, since then, I have had numerous requests for the series and suggestions that they be published in book form at a more pop- ular price. These suggestions I concluded to adopt, hence this book. The book contains much more matter — and more valuable matter — than the series of lectures, for I have broadened my in- vestigations and added to my experience since the lectures were first written. That in the lectures which seemed good I have re- vised carefully in the light of my wider experience. I have also added to the book statistical and practical in- formation — such information as I at times have greatly needed, and which I had much difficulty in securing and keeping con- venient for reference in a compact form. I have not attempted to write a scientific book, as it is not in- tended to teach manufacturers how to prepare canned foods. It is intended, however, to inform canners how their prod- ucts are marketed and distributed and what qualities are desir- able and salable. Since I wrote the series of lectures I have been in the canned food brokerage business, and was chosen by the canners, grocers and brokers of the United States to manage "National Canned Foods Week (1913)." My point of view is, therefore, broader. More than this, my appreciation of the great industry which puts the June garden into the January pantry, and preserves the food supply of the world, in times of abundance, to feed its people in times of scar- city, is widened. I have tried to crystallize that enlarged view and that appreciation in my revision of the lectures and in the added material. I hope that my thirty-j&ve years of experience as a merchant and as a buyer and seller of canned foods have qualified me to impart something of benefit to my co-workers. There are many — very many — ^who know as much (or more) about the subjects treated as myself, but who have never had the time to put their knowledge into compact form for publication. To that class I present my apologies and assurances of esteem, with the hope that the volume may contain for them some remi- niscences and prove convenient as a book of reference. The Attthob. For List of Contents See Back of Book. 10 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER L THE BUYER. Volumes have been written about salesmen, and salesmanagers, and upon the subject of salesmanship. Little has, however, been written about buyers or the buying methods of a business. There is a verse in the Bible [Prov. 30-14], which describes a cunning and boastful buyer, viz.: "It is nought, it is nought, saith the buyer; but when he is gone his way, then he boasteth." This method of depreciating an article offered for sale is still practiced, as well as the boasting of the buyer after the goods have become his. If one were to attempt to describe methods and manners used in buying, or even to classify buyers, he would have an interminable task. No two buyers are precisely alike in their methods, and all are, to some extent at least, different each from the other. The best one can do is to describe a few types, not for the purpose of ridicule or idle discussion, but that all may be benefitted, and then, if pos- sible, to fix certain rules or methods used by the highest type, i. e., by ideal buyers, as standards to follow. A cunning and egotistical buyer, who followed the method de- scribed by the verse quoted from the Bible, would, in these modern times, be regarded as ignorant, unfair, undignified, untruthful and dishonest. He would also be considered as conceited. Sellers would soon begin to ignore and avoid such a man, and instead of finding sellers seeking him, he would have to seek oppor- tunities to buy. His usefulness as a buyer would thus have departed, for there would be no seller so poor as to do him reverence. The buyer who is arrogant or insolent to those who call upon him, or inconsiderate of their convenience, or who wastes their time by giving attention to trivial matters of detail while keeping them waiting, is unwise. He will gradually but surely lose the respect of sellers. His competitors, who treat commercial travelers or brokers fairly, courteously, candidly and patiently, and who deport them- selves modestly, will secure friendship and respect, and will get all the bargains and good trades. The success of a business rests largely upon the temperament and character of its buyers, and the importance and profitable fea- tures of the various departments in a house are frequently statistically photographic of the methods of the buyers in charge. If a buyer is unfair, discourteous, inconsiderate, and arrogant with those of whom he buys, his manner will be similar toward those whom he depends upon to sell the goods for him, and it will usually HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. n he found that a buyer who has not the confidence, respect and friend- ship of sellers, is unpopular and is disliked by his salesmen. Such a combination spells ruin and failure, for his salesmen are averse to working with him and do not enter upon Jiheir duties with zeal and enthusiasm. There is no more trying and wearing position than that of a de- partment manager and buyer for a large house. He is held respon- sible not only for the careful purchasing of the proper goods, but also for their prompt sale; and he must personally attend to an enormous amount of detail. From this no assistant, stenographer or clerk can relieve him. To sit patiently as some buyers do, for eight or ten hours a day, listening to the endless and tireless importunities of sellers, four-fifths of whom they cannot patronize, is sotil-wearying and body, nerve and mind torturing. Yet, to play the game, buyers must treat sellers considerately and give each an audience. A buyer cannot continue many years in such employment with- out detriment to his health and without shortening the years of his life. A buyer who is untruthful is one of the most despicable of his class. He should consider how quickly he himself learns to despise ;and ignore a liar, among the sellers who call upon him. A buyer who is in the habit of making unreasonable and unfair -claims is more injurious to his house and its interests, in these days of modern business methods, than is a reputation for slow payment. It would surprise the proprietors of some houses, and the buyers themselves, to know to what an extent brokers are instructed not to offer goods to certain houses, at any price, or on any terms, be- cause of their habit of unfair rejections. And now for the ideal buyers — and there are many of them. I have in my mind many such to whom that term and such a descrip- tion will aptly apply. A buyer, to be ideal, should be fair, courteous, and considerate. He should have his temper under such control that he at all times will appear dignified and attentive. He should be prompt and quick and positive in his decisions in buying, in declining to buy, or in suggesting that the ofiferings be . called to his attention again, after he has investigated the market. He should not ask that unreasonable offers be made, as he thereby himself loses prestige and he also hurts the salesman in the estima- tion of his principals. In accepting or rejecting goods he should be fair, making due allowance for unimportant and unavoidable variations in quality be- yond the control of the manufacturer. 12 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. He should "put himself in the other fellow's place" and look at the matter from both sides before rejecting goods. This requires that he be always ready and willing to arbitrate. He should be careful to take and keep exact and accurate signed memoranda of offers or purchases, and he should insist that the seller be furnished with a copy or duplicate. He should not permit his time to be wasted by social conversation or by frivolities; he should see that sellers receive prompt attention, and he should be regardful of their time as well as of his own. He should prepare for himself a litany something like the follow- ing, and he should repeat it devoutly each morning before beginning his day's work, viz. : From the blackguard and indecent storyteller, good Lord deliver me! From the liar and braggart. Lord preserve me ! From the temptation to speculate, good Lord deliver me! From the man who wants to confide his troubles to me. Lord pre- serve me! From the man who has memorized his story and insists upon re- peating it to me like a parrot, good Lord deliver me! From the man who wants to relate his autobiography to me and to try to claim relationship with me. Lord preserve me ! From the man who gives away poor cigars and insists that I light them. Lord preserve me ! From the man who doesn't know his own goods and thinks he does, Lord deliver me! From the man who thinks that mere persistency and tenacity will sell goods without their being backed up by information and intelligence, please. Lord, preserve me! From the man or woman who tries to sell me goods not needed or not suitable, because of relationship or personal friendship, sym- pathy or need. Lord deliver me ! Help me, Lord, to be steadfast to my trust and firmly to resist all temptation. Amen." HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 13 CHAPTER II. A BRIEF HISTORY OF CANNED FOODS. More than one hundred years ago, in 1795, a French scientist, Nicholas Appert, discovered that fresh food hermetically sealed, and sterilized by exposure to a high degree of heat, would keep fresh, sweet and wholesome for years. That started the industry of can- ning foods in times of abundance to be used in times of scarcity. Before that discovery enormous quantities of food were allowed to waste and rot because men did not know how to save it and to supply it to millions of people elsewhere in the world who were starv- ing for the need of it. All that is changed now, and there is very little of the wicked and foolish waste that then prevailed. Wherever there is a surplus of fresh food, a cannery is to be found ; and the food is put into cans, cooked in the cans by steam heat, and kept good for years. There is nothing secret in the process of canning food. Nothing whatever is used but the power of heat to sterilize and prevent fer- mentation. Preservative drugs or other preparations can not be used. They would be worse than useless, as they would destroy the natural flavor. Both would be illegal and would subject canners to prosecution, and the goods to confiscation and destruction under United States law and the laws of the various States. The label must tell the truth. Nothing is needed or used in preparing canned foods but "cooking in the can." This discovery of canning by heat and the development of the industry are some of the greatest boons ever given by Providence to mankind. It puts the June garden into the January pantry. It places the fresh fruits of the tropics on the table of the Lap- landers, and fresh salmon from the Behring Sea upon the bill of fare of Havana hotels. The modern cannery is more sanitary than a dainty woman's kitchen, because it is constructed on strictly sanitary principles and kept clean by the use of hot water and live steam. The contents of the cans — tomatoes, peas, string beans, fruits of all kinds — are gath- ered when at the proper maturity or ripeness, in the vicinity of the canneries where grown, and are washed, cleaned, and prepared almost altogether by machinery without being touched by hands. Being packed fresh near the gardens, orchards, waters and farms, canned vegetables, fruits, fish, sardines and meats have the tenderness and fine flavor which is not retained by such articles when they are shipped long distances and openly exposed to the air or to dust, odors and decay. 14 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Then the convenience of canned foods is so pleasant. No wash- ing, cleaning, peeling, scaling, stringing or cooking is necessary. Most canned foods are ready for use "right out of the can." Some require heating and seasoning. Fruits do not even require that much prepara- tion. They are nearly all "ready for use" instantaneously. A great variety of canned foods is now available at every retail grocery store, enabling a family to prepare at a moment's notice a meal not to be excelled in quality at the finest restaurant or by the finest cooks. All the following kinds of canned foods are now purchasable at moderate prices at retail groceries. They represent an industry of world wide economy, viz. : Vegetables — Asparagus, Lima Beans, Pork and Beans, Green String Beans, White Wax Beans, Red Kidney Beans, Beets, Carro^-s,. Corn, Okra, Peas, Pumpkin, Sweet Potatoes, Sauer Kraut, Spinach, Succotash, Tomatoes, Mushrooms, Cucumbers, Pie Plant, Squash,, Hominy, Olives, Dandelions, Cauliflower. Fruits — Apples, Apricots, Blackberries, Blueberries, Figs, Cher- ries, Crabapples, Grapes, Gooseberries, Loganberries, Peaches, Pears,. Pineapple, Prunes, Plums, Raspberries, Strawberries, Apple Butter, Apple Sauce. Fish — Clam Chowder, Clams, Codfish, Lobsters, Oysters, Mack- erel, Herring, Salmon, Sardines, Tuna Fish, Green Turtle, Terrapin Shrimps, Crabs, Fish Roe, etc. Meats — Deviled and Potted Ham, Tongue, Sliced Dried Beef^ Mutton, Veal, Corned Beef Hash, Sausages, Chile-Con-Came, Tamales, Boned and Potted Chicken. Sundries — Soups of all kinds. Condensed Milk, Spaghetti, Maca- roni, Plum Pudding, Oatmeal, Mincemeat, etc. CHAPTER III. CLEAN— ECONOMICAL— WHOLESOME. A dainty housekeeper likes to know that the food she puts upon her table is clean. Before vegetables or fruits are packed in tin cans they are brought fresh from the fields (which are usually nearby), carefully washed and prepared with plenty of hot and cold water, and then put into the cans. The bright new tin cans are carefully washed by a machine that rinses them out with hot water and steam so that no dust or foreign substance can remain inside. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 15 Modern canneries are equipped with sanitary floors and drainage, and are thoroughly washed with hot water and live steam after each day's work. All waste or debris is carted away to be used to fertilize the fields. Most of the preparation is done by automatic machinery. Peas in canning are never touched by human hands. Tomatoes are peeled by hand, as no machine has ever been invented that will do that work. Corn is pulled from the stalk by hand, but is husked by machinery and is not again touched. Even the labels are put on the cans by a machine. Most fruits are peeled by machine, and thorough and absolute cleanliness is not only insisted upon in modern canneries, but is es- sential, for canners well know that the packing of any but strictly fresh and cleanly vegetables, meats, fish and fruits would be unwise and unprofitable. Canned foods are wholesome — ^absolutely so. They are pro- tected from contamination, dust, dirt, odors and foul air by being sealed in air-tight cans. Nothing whatever is used in canning except heat, which is the great natural sterilizer. Canned fresh foods are sealed and cooked in the cans and subjected to a heat of from 320 to 260 degrees, Fahren- heit, after the cans are sealed. Consequently they need but little, if any cooking, when the cans are opened. Warming the can, before opening, in hot water, is usually sufficient. No preservatives, no antiseptics, no drugs, nothing but heat is used ; sometimes sugar or syrup or a little salt is added, but that is to make the goods palatable, not to preserve them. Nothing but heat is necessary. It is a reliable, cheap and whole- some preservative, and no canner ever thinks of using anything but pure, simple heat with which to sterilize his canned foods. He would be foolish to use chemical preservatives. It would be illegal and is prohibited by both United States and State laws. Besides, it would cost more and be less reliable, should he attempt to use any othei- method than heat. Consequently, canned foods are the most whole- some foods known. When one eats, the food selected should be nutritious and have the power to support life and health. There are no foods more nutri- tious than canned meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, soups, etc. They are far more so than foods in other forms or than cold storage products because the natural flavor, succulence and appetizing features are retained ; those qualities go into the tin container and stay there until the can is opened. Now for the great problem of the day. Canned foods are economi- cal. In these days, when salaries and wages remain as formerly, and when the purchasing power of the dollar has so greatly decreased, t6 how to buy and SELL CANNED FOODS. and in addition, because the demand for food exceeds the supply, foods have moved gradually higher and higher and the cost of living has, with many, become a serious problem. Here is a comparison of the retail prices of food of the same equivalent values on this day, Sep- tember 1st, 1913, in the Chicago market, where this chapter was written, viz. : Half dozen eggs $ .16 The equivalent of 1 No. 2 can of corn $ .10 Half peck apples 20 The equivalent of i No. 3 can of apples .10 One pound rib beef 32 The equivalent of 1 No. 1 can of salmon .15 Half peck sweet potatoes 30 The equivalent of 1 No. 3 can sweet potatoes .12 Totals $ .78 $ .47 These prices are for the very best qualities of canned foods, are made on just a few items, for lack of space, and the comparison as equivalent value is fair and reasonable. Note the enormous saving! The difference is between 47 cents and 78 cents, and this comparison can be carried through the line of canned foods practically. Nearly forty per cent, of money saved, and the canned foods are prepared and ready for use. The secret of the comparatively far cheaper price of canned foods as contrasted with cold stored or dried foods is that they are canned at the places where grown in times of greatest abundance without waste from rot or spoilage, and without shrinkage from evaporation. After canned foods are in the cans, it costs but little to carry or keep them as they are dependable and will remain until used just in ordi- nary storage. CHAPTER IV. CANNED PEAS. This vegetable is the third in importance for canning purposes in the United States and one of the great canned food staples. Peas are of great historical antiquity and have been cultivated from time immemorial — having been traced back in the history of the world until the time when the records of mankind are forever lost. It has not been many years since canned peas were chiefly im- ported from France and regarded as a luxury. Beautifully graded as to size, tenderness and beautifully green from the use of salts HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 17 of copper, they were good to look upon but about as free from natural flavor as it would be possible to make them. The pure food laws, requiring all coloring matter used to be named on the label or entirely prohibiting it, have ruined the Fiench or imported pea business ; and beside our domestic product of natural color is of superior quality to the imported, and the color was all that sold the imported peas. The packing or canning of peas is of wide extent as an industry in the United States. The plant is hardy and of general growth; but, in order to obtain tenderness and sweetness of flavor, slow growth and ripening are essential, as well as a good soil and cool, moist, steady temperature. This combination appears to be attained most nearly in the country surrounding the Great Lakes of the northern United States, which accounts for the pre-eminence of Wisconsin, New York and Michigan as well as Northern Ohio and Northern Indiana as pea canning sections. Great improvements have been made in the methods of pea can- ning in a few years past. Picking by hand from the vines and shell- ing by hand, most laborious and expensive methods, have been super- seded by inventive genius, and pea vines are now cut with a mowing machine like hay. Vines and all are taken to machines called viners, these thrash the peas out of the pods, like wheat from a thresher, and the graders, binders, blanchers, and the regular machinery for canning vegetables, do the work so automatically that it can be said that canned peas are not touched by human hands at all. In planting, peas are either sown like wheat, broadcast, or are drilled in in rows. Fields are planted at intervals so that the crop will not all mature at once. Pea seed are of two general types, namely, the smooth, round pea which is known as the Alaska variety, the most popular kind be- cause of its appearance and comparatively smaller size ; and the sweet varieties, the best known kinds of the latter type being the Horsford- Advancer and the Admiral. Peas of the Alaska variety, on account of. their being more sightly and of smaller size, are more popular with those "who eat with their eyes," and who cater to that practice. Hotels, caterers and restau- rants prefer them on that account and because they are firmer and will "stand up" better under hard cooking than the sweet varieties. The latter average more of the larger sizes and, on account of their oval shape, will not grade or look as small as the Alaska variety ; but they far excel the Alaska variety in tenderness and natural sweetness of flavor. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. The Alaska variety is usually of earlier growth than the sweet varieties, which are several weeks later in maturing. After passing through the viners or separating hullers, peas are conveyed by belt buckets to the briner. This is a large box filled with a salt water solution. In this brine the firm, tough or hard peas, from their specific gravity, sink to the bottom and are withdrawn and packed as standards. The more tender peas, being lighter than the salt solution, float on its surface and are carried by the blades of an endless screw over the edge of the box into belt buckets. After the briner, peas go to the rotary separators — large per- forated cylinders which divide them into the following sizes, viz. : No. 1 size, which is 9-33 of an inch in diameter. No. 2 size, which is 10-33 of an inch in diameter. No. 3 size, which is 11-32 of an inch in diameter. No. 4 size, which is 13-33 of an inch in diameter. No. 5 size, which comprises all larger than 12-33 of an inch in diameter. Grading is not entirely uniform as to size, and New York packers run their sizes a little larger than Wisconsin and Michigan packers do. After leaving the graders, the shelled peas are carried through a line of cleaning machines and washers over a packing belt, past a line of women, who remove blacks, yellows, or broken peas or pieces of vines, pods or leaves, and then through a blanching machine, which operates as a preliminary cooker or exhaust. From here they go into the cans, past the cappers and sealers, into the processing kettles and cooking tanks, and thence to the labeling machines and cases, almost untouched by human hands. Peas are filled into the can by an automatic machine which puts into each can an equal quantity, and a syrup composed of filtered water, salt and granulated sugar. New York packers are experienced and exceedingly careful in canning peas. In addition they grade the peas more uniformly and ac- curately, on the average, than the packers of other states. Wisconsin is a great pea-packing State and its pack usually excels that of Michigan in style and appearance, owing to the tougher skin of Wisconsin peas, which prevents them from cracking or break- ing open while going through the process; but peas packed in the State of Michigan are highly esteemed for tenderness and flavor. Southern grown-peas are usually of inferior style and flavor. The points of excellence in canned peas are easily discernible by aid of the eyes, the teeth and the taste, but the defects require a more close and careful study. Clouded or muddy liquor may be due to a variety of causes, the chief of which is overcooking, or a failure to cool the cans quickly after the cooking in the processing kettles. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 19 In some seasons, when an unusual proportion of dry weather pre- vails, peas contain more starch than usual, and it is a difficult problem to sterilize the larger size, particularly of the Alaska variety, without causing them to burst and cloud the liquor. When this excess starch is present, it is made evident by the swelling of the peas, making a No. 3 sieve size look like a No. 4 sieve pea. After the pea crop is sown and the plants are in bloom they are "rogued," that is to say, men pass through the fields cutting out all plants that bloom of odd color. In that way the cans and the seed are kept comparatively free from mixed varieties and from black or rogue peas. Great care is taken with the growth and purity of seed peas. Some packers state that the blacks in canned peas are caused by an insect and that they do not develop until sealed and processed; others hold that the peas have not been properly rogued in the field or hand picked in the cannery. Ungraded peas (all sizes in the same can) are quite salable at a low price ; but beware of mixed peas when the packer has not marked his cans and permits several grades to go out not only in the same case, but in different cans under the same label. Nothing is so ex- asperating to a retail grocer as to have customers bring back cans saying: "They are twice as large as the first I bought with the same label." That kind of a lot of peas will cause more trouble than profit. Flat sours are more frequently found in peas than in any other article canned. This condition is very troublesome, as there is no external evidence of the cans being sour and the proportion may run very small or irregularly — for in sampling one may not find the sour cans. A considerable mushy sediment at the bottom of a can of peas is evidence that the lot has been overcooked and a pea of that de- scription is not worth more than half market value for the grade. A slight sediment, not coupled with cloudy liquor, is, however, of no con- sequence. Never, never shake your pea samples before cutting. Don't object too strongly to a lot of peas because the fill is not perfect. Tender peas shrink in processing and peas that are not well covered with liquor in the can do not usually process perfectly. The standards adopted for canned peas by the Ohio Canners' Association at Toledo, January 13, 1909, are as follows : Fancy. — Cans to be well filled; peas covered with clear liquor; size uni- form; good flavor, and absolutely tender. Extra Standard. — Cans to be well filled; peas covered with clear liquor and reasonably tender; size uniform; good appearance. Standard. — Cans to be fairly well filled; peas may be slightly hard; liquor may be more or less cloudy, but not thick; size fairly uniform, and the contents must comply with the requirements of the Natural Pure Food Law. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. GRADING AS TO SIZE. Petit Pois, or size No. 1 Sieve, 18-64ths of an inch Extra Sifted, or size No. 2 Sieve, 20-64th of an inch Sifted, or size No. 3 Sieve, 22-64th of an inch June, or size No. 4 Sieve, 24-64th of an inch Marrow, or size No. 5 Sieve, 26-64th of an inch All pea can labels should have printed on them tried and tested recipes for the preparation of peas. The following recipes are of that character. Pea Soup. 1 can Early June Peas, 3 teaspoons sugar, Yz cup cold water, 1 pint milk, 1 slice onion, 3 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons flour, y% teaspoon pepper. Method : Cook peas in their liquor, adding sugar and cold water, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald the milk with the onion in it, remove the onion and then add the milk to the pea mixture ; then season with salt and pepper, celery salt and paprika. Serve hot. Pea Sotxffle. Rub one can of peas through a strainer and add enough milk to make one pint in all. Cook together two tablespoons each of butter and flour, and add gradually the sifted pea 5 and the milk. Season with salt and pepper 2nd sugar and onion juice if desired. Add the well beaten whites of two eggs, pour into buttered molds, and steam or bake in a pan of water until firm in the center. Turn out of the molds before serving. Serve as a vegetable with meat and potatoes. Glazed Carrots With Peas. Take three medium sized carrots, wash, scrape and cut in cubes or fancy shapes, parboil 15 minutes, then drain. Add to the carrots one-quarter cup butter, two tablespoons sugar, one tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves. Cook slowly until glazed and tender. Feat one can peas in liquor for five minutes, then drain, and season with butter, salt and pepper. Mount the peas on a hot dish and surround with glazed carrots. May combine peas and carrots before placing on serving dish. Creamed Peas and Salmon. (Good to serve for supper. Serve on buttered toast or on crisp wafers). Make a white sauce, using proportions of: HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 21 Two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, one cup milk. Melt butter, add flour, and when well blended and smooth add the milk gradually and cook until thick. Flake one-half cup canned salmon, add to it one tablespoon lemon juice, and let stand while making sauce. Add to the sauce one-half cup canned peas drained from liquor. Season highly and serve hot. Old Country Green Salad. One cup Sifted Peas, one-half cup hickory or walnut meats, one cup diced celery. Method: Toss ingredients together lightly, using forks, add salad dressing, and pile on lettuce leaf. May substitute sweet cucum- ber pickles cut in cubes for the celery. » Potato Puff With Peas. Two cups cold riced potatoes, two eggs — whites and yolks beaten separately — one-half cup milk or cream, one-half cup canned peas, sea- soning, one-quarter to one-half cup grated cheese if desired, two tablespoons butter, less if cheese is used. Method: Mix all together, pouring in stiffly beaten whites last. Bake in greased baking dish until golden brown on top. The total pack of peas per annum in the United States from 1906 to 19 13, has been given statistically as follows: 1906 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 4,577,767 1907 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 6,505,961 1908 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 5,577,000 1909 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 5,028,000 1910 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 4,347,900 1911 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 4,532,300 1913 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 7,307,000 1913 Number of cases, 24 2 lb 8,770,000 Detailed statistics of the canning by States will be found in this book in the chapter headed "Canning Statistics." CHAPTER V. ADVANCE OR FUTURE SALES OF CANNED GOODS. This question seems to be exciting some attention and developing some negative arguments from writers who hold that retail grocers should "stop buying futures," promising them that if they do they will then be happy ever afterward. I regard this advice to "stop buying and selling future canned foods" as a protest against the methods of Dame Nature. If she could be induced to reform and to produce a uniform quantity of food 22 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. products at regular and briefly recurring periods, there would be no necessity for buying or selling future canned foods. Why not take another course and stop making preparations for future needs entirely? There is a very large class now advocating that theory, the members of which are all "leading the simple life," all opposed to thrift, and content to rely upon an occasional "hand- out" solicited from some one of contrary views. Retail grocers have rarely had occasion to complain of the cus- tom of buying canned foods' futures; the consumers, who are the parties most vitally interested, have never rebelled to my knowledge ; but many spokesmen have felt called upon to protest in their behalf. In primitive times our fathers and mothers in their simple way prepared food supplies in harvest time for winter use, and the canned foods packer today stands in the same position toward the millions of people who must be fed. The retail grocer is a purveyor to the people, and in this mission he walks hand in hand with the packer of canned foods as a fellow- worker in a most essential, honorable and useful occupation. In buying canned foods "for delivery when packed," the retail merchant obtains the goods at a price which is based upon the actual cost of production with a fair living profit to the canner and the jobber. After such advance sales and deliveries are made, spot prices from maker to dealer or from wholesale dealer to retail dealer, are crowded up to the very last cent that the market or demand will bear. Advance prices on canned foods are not alone based on the actual cost of production, but are regulated by sharp competition and by rivalry among manufacturers. In buying canned foods in advance of their manufacture, the retail merchant can, therefore, know that he is securing them at a fair valuation above cost. If he waits and buys his goods as he may need them, he puts himself at the mercy of the operators and manipu- lators who are always trying to corner the market. Advances, therefore, are much more frequent than declines, as short crops, crop failures, and speculative pools all Vnd to send the market higher. Canned foods' futures are always sold for actual de- livery and the goods are actually delivered, and there are no bear or short sellers. A great advantage is secured by the retail grocer in contracting for canned foods in advance in obtaining uniformity and excellence of quality. The custom of contracting for canned foods futures has be- come so general that the packers of reputation who pack the best qualities are nearly always entirely sold up, or oversold; and if a dealer refuses to buy canned foods for future delivery and takes his chances to get spot goods, his selection and choice are frequently reduced to the surplus goods packed late in the season and of inferior VIEW DOWN LIGHT STREET BALTIMORE— "THE HOME OF CANNING' ^^^■^■■■BE: - j^^BHR ^wmtw f^^H|^^^^r^^'> ^/ ^F^^LJHIfite M ^f^ ^p^^'l^^Pv»^~'4ffli l^frs^- fl ^^^^^H I^H p PP^*^ P^H^B^n oBk f ■*" WKKm «7V//-c^>-..,m and competently conducted. Canned foods packers could not get along without the services of a broker, who sells their output for them in advance, helps them to finance their business, and saves them the expense, embarrassment and distress incident to having to pack their goods and then hunt around for a buyer. The broker is the philosopher, guide and friend of the packer — telling him what to pack and how to pack it, and selling it for him to responsible people even before it is ready for market. His small per- centage or brokerage can well be afforded by the packer and should be cheerfully paid. It is paid only when earned and upon actual sales, and the system is far cheaper than any other sales method so far found. The broker is usually an expert in his line of goods and can be of great usefulness to both packer and jobber, for his judgment as to qualities is recognized as impartial. The broker well earns his small percentage or brokerage, for he makes up mixed carloads so as to save freight to the jobber and secures for the small wholesale buyer as low prices and freights as the large buyer can obtain. The canner pays the brokerage. He does not put it into his price, as is complained; but he pays it out of the amount he saves by the broker's economy of selling expense. If the canner had to sell his own product it would cost him triple or quadruple as much to do so as the brokerage he now pays. The broker cannot consistently be regarded as a burden or ex- pense upon business, nor his brokerage as a tribute or tax, for his services produce such economies in the process of distribution that his part of the expense is far more than counteracted. The broker is properly regarded as the agent of both buyer and seller, and should be regarded as the friend and ally of both. Legally he represents the party who pays him his brokerage. In political economy the most effective results are produced by the "division of labor" — which really means the employment of ex- pert labor in each process of an undertaking. The canned foods or merchandise broker is thus employed in the process of commercial HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 37 distribution as an expert, and he saves enormously more to all parties concerned than his cost. Commerce seeks the cheapest and best methods just as water seeks a channel. Brokers are employed in all countries. This proves that they are considered one of the valuable essentials of business and a part of that intelligence of selection by universal choice which estab- lishes the usefulness of their occupation to the world and its people. Brokers are used to great advantage in all important lines of commerce and manufacture as well as in the wholesale grocery line. They bring to the attention of the buyer dry goods, boots and shoes, leather, iron and steel, shipping, cotton and grain, provisions, stocks and bonds, and, in fact, the product of all the important and many of the unimportant lines of human industry and achievement. A buyer should patronize but few brokers, and, if possible, the best and most competent; otherwise his transactions are public and known to his competitors. Inexperienced or irresponsible brokers fre- uently exhibit or recite their sales in order to influence others to buy. By sympathetically encouraging everyone who has an ambition to be a broker a buyer assists in building up around him an element that will take up much of his valuable time and be of great dis- advantage. The true broker does not constantly, persistently and insidiously tr3' to force goods upon you that you do not need and which he knows you should not have ; nor does he try to stufif orders. Having no regard for a buyer's peace of mind, and caring nothing about his success or his usefulness to his house. Such a broker, figuratively speaking, "feeds with his feet in the trough," and his steps take hold on hell. Many a buyer has been ruined and discredited by being over- loaded with unsalable goods by such a broker. He is not a trustworthy broker who, in order to save his percent- age or brokerage, takes the part of the seller, right or wrong; for he will betray you in your time of greatest need, and he is dangerous to do business with. A broker should stand as a great rock between buyer and seller — impartially, justly and immovably for the right. He should be the friend of both parties and his business relations with them should at all times be absolutely equitable and confidential. A good broker can be of great advantage to a buyer in helping him unload surplus stock, and he should be so used. It is best, of course, to unload surplus stock through your own salesmen, giving your own customers the benefit of the low prices. The broker is the next best medium. Good brokers do not engage in social conversation during business hours. Their time is or should be valuable, and so is yours. A brief interchange of news and views with a competent broker is sometimes both an advantage and a pleasure; but let it be brief. 38 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER XI. USEFULNESS OF BROKERS— THE NEGATIVE. The affirmative of this question is in the preceding chapter. This is the negative. My personal views are a composite of the two and are not given. Opinions in relation to the necessity for brokers in the canned foods line and as to their usefulness are divergent. Brokers do not generally know that fact, as people don't tell them about it. There are a great many canned foods packers who feel that the 2 per cent or 3 per cent they pay brokers is a useless tribute; and there are many wholesalers who feel that the broker's services are not of sufficient value to warrant them in having 3 per cent, or 3 per cent, added to the cost of their goods. Profits in the wholesale grocery line are so reduced that 2 per cent, on purchases would pay a handsome dividend on capital stock and bridge the chasm between a paying and an unprofitable business. The question naturally arises in the minds of wholesale grocers who have in their employ expert department managers, to whom they pay high salaries, and who frequently know more than the brokers they buy of about the goods bought : "Why should I pay tribute to this individual, the broker, who stands between me and the manufacturer; and why are my own people not competent to buy direct?" It requires little or no capital to engage in the brokerage business, and but a fair familiarity with the goods represented. The idea which the packer has as to brokers is that, by putting his goods into brokers' hands he secures their faithful and constant presentation. He does not realize that the broker represents to the trade probably a dozen canners in his line and will frequently sell the cheapest offerings because it is easiest to do so. The jobber's idea is, and has been, that the broker would bring to him his best trades and bargains and protect his interests as a friend, and that it is easier to buy through a broker than to buy direct. But it is not always so. The number of brokers has increased enormously in ten years and now there are many more brokers than buyers. There is a great multitude of small brokers who almost constantly beset a buyer, importuning him to buy goods which he does not need. The valuable time of expensive employes is thus wasted because courtesy requires that brokers be treated with consideration. The most important part of a department manager's duties is to keep the sales- men well posted and to teach them how to sell the goods he buys; but he should also attend to the details of his department. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 39 If, however, his time is chiefly absorbed in listening to a daily- procession of brokers, of whom he seldom buys anything, how is he to keep up the efficiency of his department and to do his duty to his house. This condition may not prevail in the smaller towns or cities where brokers are not so numerous, but it does prevail in the larger places to a most distressing extent. To be compelled to receive fifty brokers a day, or more, forty-five of whom have nothing of interest to him, is a soul-harrassing and nerve-destroying experience to a buyer. The brokerage business in canned foods and in dried fruits is heavily overdone. There are too many engaged in it and the result is that, in order to live, some are compelled to solicit and to sell to the department stores, chain stores, and semi-jobbers. They also do a jobbing business, by co-operating with sub-brokers or retail brokers, who have a little capital and desk room and sell any retailer who will buy a 25-case lot of goods — which these sub-brokers buy of the larger brokers from spot stock. In this way the legitimate jobber is being forced backward for patronage upon the smaller retail dealers who cannot buy in 35-case lots and who need credit. What is the remedy for this state of afifairs? There are several ! Wholesale grocery buyers must adopt some of them in self-protection. They must fix buying hours when they will receive brokers, or days when they will buy, and make no exception or deviati(/n ; or they must confine their purchases to a few of the best brokers who sell only to the wholesale trade without evasion ; or they must secure the agency for certain packs of goods and control of the line for their mar- ket ; or they must make all their purchases by wire, telephone or mail, and make none through personal solicitation at their desks; or they must buy all their goods by bids or sealed proposals (as does the gov- ernment and certain large corporations, on samples submitted) ; or the buyers must organize a buying exchange, to meet on certain days and hours, where they can interview the sellers and each other and do all their buying there and then from the sellers and from each other. Author's Note — The foregoing negative side of the proposition, "Are Brokers Useful?" is taken principally from the opinions of sev- eral large buyers and of one or two general managers to whom I have talked on the subject. I do not hold myself personally responsible for either view, as I do not agree fully with either the negative or the affirmative. 40 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER XII. HARD WORK AND HARD PLAY. I have received the following letter: "Friend Lee : — "What can I do to save myself from the constantly increasing cares of business, and the work, the worry, the fretfulness and the petulance caused thereby? They seem to be growing upon me?" "A WHOLESALE GROCER." It is said that artistic genius is the capacity for taking iniinite pains with one's chosen work, and that a great actor is essentially •one whose impersonation of a character is to himself so real that he :actually lives and feels all the sentiment, the fear, the hope, the passion ^hich he depicts. The merchant of genius, whose ambition and pride, whose love of and loyalty to his work, so absorb him that he unconsciously as- sumes greater responsibilities and more and more of the details, is a great artist in his capacity for taking infinite pains. He is also a great actor, because he is himself a part, the very soul of his work. Of such a man it was said in the book of Proverbs : "Seest thou a man diligent in his business? He shall stand before kings; he shall not stand before mean men." When, however, one's ambition is coming to its fulfillment ; when his work is approaching his ideal ; when the picture he has placed upon the canvas or the impersonation he has wrought has become an estab- lished and safe business enterprise; when his duties are beginning to become monotonous ; when the business sentiment which so enthused him has begun to wane and his soul to shrink in distate from the con- tinually heaping up of infinite details ; when his eyesight has begun to grow dim, his hair to show the frost of years, his power to resist and repel worry gradually less, his cheerfulness to vanish and his petulance toward his employes, his family and his associates to increase, what then? "For what shall it profit a man, if he gain the whole world and lose his own soul ?" So says St. Mark, and the inquiry is pertinent to my purpose and directly to the point, because a man's optimism, his power to resist annoyance, his buoyancy of temperament, his joy in the power and pleasure of achievement, are of his soul. They are of his life the essence, the joy, the sunshine, the fragrance. He may lose them and may continue to profit in a financial way but he is a drudge, a slave to his business, governed by a sense of duty to others, blind to the beautiful in life, deaf to the music in the laugh- ter of little children and in the songs of women and birds, unmoved by sentiments of pride or compassion, and has a heart as cold and HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 41 cheerless and as pitiless to himself and others as the eternal ice of the Arctic Circle. What shall he do then that his mind may be kept alert, his body healthful, his soul as that of a man? There are several things which he can do. He can so systematize his business that he can be away from it and yet have a directing hand upon the lever which controls it. By a system of daily reports from each department of his business, to be forwarded to him, he can regu- late it and guide it almost as well as if he were present. Those reports need not be expensive, for his personal stenographer, during his ab- sence, can compile and forward them. This is the artist's method of taking infinite pains with the lines and the proportions of a model, leaving others to chisel the marble and hew to the line. Again, he can adopt the actor's method and have an understudy — one so well versed in his superior's duties that he can assume them acceptably during the absence of his principal. In fact, this plan should be put into efifect (and is) in nearly all large business establishments. The manager of a department should understand and recognize the necessity for this arrangement. If he is too narrow or jealous to train up an assistant, he is, himself, not broad enough for a high commercial position or loyal enough to the owners and the future interests of the business. "Men think all men mortal but themselves." Life is exceedingly uncertain and there are times of sickness and disability, of vacations and necessary absences; and there are resignations, reorganizations and promotions of im- portant men to higher positions. All these conditions must be con- sidered in business enterprises, especially those which are incorporated (all should be) and which are to go on forever. Every important position, from the presidency to the head of the shipping department should, therefore, in the interest of the business as well as for the welfare and mental peace of the principals, have an understudy. It is not essential that there should be two sets of employes in order to so arrange a business; but the man on the next rung of the ladder below can look upward, not downward, and prepare himself to step up higher. There is nothing in the strenuous and arduous mercantile life of this country and these times except hard work and hard play. In other countries, where merchants live their lives more sensibly and philo- sophically, the aim usually is to acquire a modest competence; here the struggle is for great fortunes and superabundant riches. If one is in this game, he must play it according to the established ' rules and custom ; he must go the pace ; he must work hard and in order to keep himself physically and mentally competent he must play hard. 42 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. A hobby, a fad, a recreation, to be indulged in sensibly and ac- cording to the age, strength and physical powers of the seeker for relief, should be found and encouraged for hard workers. Horseback riding, billiards, golf, bowling, automobiling, debating, photography, drawing, the study of languages, literature, music, all these and a hundred other diversions are open to the worn, tired, dis- couraged worker. This existence is but a probationary period wherein we may or may not educate and equip ourselves for that higher existence for which we all hope; let us, therefore, avoid becoming so absorbed in our work that it becomes drudgery and while digging, delving, dredg- ing for dollars, neglect those things which make even more for happi- ness, health and contentment than accumulation of great wealth. Nor should we forget that "The soul, of origin divine, God's glorious image, freed from clay. In heaven's eternal sphere shall shine — A star of day. "The sun is but a spark of fire, A transient meteor in the sky ; The soul, immortal as its sire, Shall never die." CHAPTER XIII. CANNED CORN. Next to tomatoes, canned corn is the most important product of the canning industry. Its consumption is almost wholly confined to the United States, however, as the use of corn as food is but little known elsewhere. As a wholesome, cheap and nutritious food product canned corn is far superior to tomatoes, peas, or any other canned vegetable. Indian corn or maize is indigenous to this country and was culti- vated by the American Indians long before the whites discovered the land. Maine claims to pack the best corn and bases the claim upon the short, quick season prevailing in that state, the natural qualities of her soil and the skill of her packers in handling this product. New York packs fine corn, as does Vermont, Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, Ohio, Maryland, Nebraska, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Pennsylvania. The pack in the other States is unimportant so far, but is annually increas- ing. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 43. Statistics of Corn Canning. Cases of 2 Doz. No. 2 Cans. Total pack in United States in the year 1901 4,757,735 Total pack in United States in the year 1902 4,113,087 Total pack in United States in the year 1903 4,591,146 Total pack in United States in the year 1904 11,162,962 Total pack in United States in the year 1905 13,018,665 Total pack in United States in the year 1906 9,136,160 Total pack in United States in the year 1907 6,675,908 Total pack in United States in the year 1908 6,779,000 Total pack in United States in the year 1909 6,787,000 Total pack in United States in the year 1910 10,063,000 Total pack in United States in the year 1911 14,301,000 Total pack in United States in the year 1912 13,109,000 Total pack in United States in the year 1913 7,283,000 (Statistics in more detail will be found in the chapter devoted to that subject.) Canners of corn have in past years experienced great difficulty in securing acreage, as farmers do not find the raising of sweet corn for canning purposes profitable. They prefer to raise field corn, which, because of the high price of cattle and swine to which it is fed, brings farmers a much better profit than sugar corn grown for canning. Canners of this food have therefore been compelled in many in- stances to plant and grow their own sweet corn. Standards for Canned Com. — The standards established for canned corn are rather crude and indefinite. The Baltimore Canned Goods Exchange definition of standard canned corn reads : "Sweet corn only to be used, cut from the cob while young and tender, cans to cut out full of corn." The Ohio Canners' Association adopted the following standard : "Fancy — Cans to be well filled ; minimum gross weight to be 23 oz. ; absolutely young and tender stock; natural color; medium moist and practically free from silk, cob and husk. Standard — Cans well filled ; minimum weight 23 oz. gross; stock reasonably tender; free from hard particles; natural color." Indiana packers have adopted a definition only for a standard quality. It is practically the same as that of the Ohio Association ex- cept that the words "medium moist" are added and the words "free from hard particles" omitted. Much care is exercised by packers in the growth and selection of seed corn for canning purposes, and many- varieties are originated. The professional seedsmen usually grow Stowell's Evergreen, which is a corn of heavy yield, but with a large grain likely to prove tough in the can unless carefully handled; and Crosby, which is an. 44 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. excellent corn but not a heavy yielder ; and Country Gentleman, which is of a deep grain and a good yielder, but which, though of a good color and flavor, is hard to pack at a proper stage of tenderness. Process of Corn Canning. — Acreage is contracted in the fall and early spring. Inspectors from the factory visit the fields during the planting and growing season to advise farmers as to the care of the crop, and to watch its condition carefully, ordering the farmer to bring it to the cannery on a certain date. Canners usually furnish the seed, deducting the value of it from the first deliveries. Husking may be done by hand, but machines have been invented that will properly do this part of the work. The corn when husked is run through a brushing machine to remove the silk, then the ears are run through the cutters, which cut the grains about half their depth and scrape the rest of the grain. After this the cut corn is run through the silkers which remove what silk remains and pieces of husk arid cob. Now it goes to the mixer, where it is mixed with a brine composed usually of water pure from artesian wells, 35 pounds of sugar and 30 pounds of salt to each 100 gallons. From here the corn goes into the cooker, where it is subjected to a preliminary heat of about 175 degrees, then it goes to the fillers. Fancy corn is somethimes run through a recutter, after coming from the silkers. After the progress described, the corn is subjected to the same processes of filling, capping, sealing, cooling, labeling and casing that are common to all other canned products. Owing to the solidity of the contents, corn must be heavily pro- cessed, the formula being 250 degrees for 60 minutes in the retorts. Corn packed in No. 10 cans is very unreliable as it is difficult to per- meate it with the heat so as to sterilize it sufficiently. Maryland style, or wet packed corn, is cut off the cob either by hand or by machine, the whole grain being cut to its full depth, and the cob not scraped ; it is then packed in the same brine as previously described. Some packers use as much as 50 pounds of sugar to 100 gallons of water in making a brine, but the regular formula is 35 pounds of sugar and 30 pounds of salt to 100 gallons of water. The entire process of packing corn is mechanical, and is conducted in modern factories with the utmost cleanliness, and with strict regard to sanitary conditions. Buying Points. — Examine carefully for tenderness of grain and for fullness of cans. Do not shake the corn before opening, and open some cans at the cap end and others at the end opposite the cap. Corn is cheapened by the free admixture of brine, and though it should not be so dry as to solidify or cake in the can, it should not be sloppy. * In an inspection stir the corn from the bottom of the can, then pour it out in a dish to find the defects, then inspect the empty can for evidences of dust or cinders from unwashed cans and for acid stains down the side seam and cap seam. A moist consistency is desirable. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 45 Do not be too exacting about a white c'olor. A dead white color is occasionally produced by a corn starch filler or mixture, while a heavily sweetened corn safely processed will turn yellow in the can. Such a corn, however, is better and safer than the starch-mixed corn. Consumers do not care about the color, as, when corn is cooked, it always turns dark or yellow. A white color is therefore not so important and frequently means poor quality, while a richer color means purity, wholesomeness, and a fine natural flavor. Selling Points.^Never, when selling, cut a can of corn on top. Cut on the side, as the can always looks fuller and nicer. Never cut the cap end of the can, as there is frequently some discoloration under the cap, caused by the scorching of the corn by the soldering iron, or by the staining of it by the acid used to set the solder around the cap. Nearly all canners now label canned corn cap end down. Always shake a can of corn carefully before cutting it for a buyer. If it is packed too dry it will thereby be mixed to a presentable con- sistency ; if packed too wet, it will be given a thicker consistency. Some times, when corn freezes and thaws again, the w;ater in the brine separates and rises to the top, but a vigorous shaking will cause it to combine again. Do not thrust a spoon to the bottom of the can and stir the contents upward; rather smooth the surface with the spoon, for when you stir the corn upward you are apt to bring the heavy, tough grains to the surface. Always try hard to get your customer to take as high grade corn as you can, for quality will make him more friends than low prices, and will bind him to you with hooks of steel. Isaac Winslow, of Maine, is said to have canned the first corn packed in the United States. He had been a sailor and had learned the principle of sterilizing by heat in France. His first experiments were conducted in 1839, but they were not very successful. He applied for a patent on his method in 1853; but the patent was not granted until 1862. The care with which corn is handled has much to do with its quality and flavor, more, indeed, than the advantages of location and climate. Quantity packers have several times almost ruined the industry of corn canning by putting large blocks of tough, flavorless canned corn on the market. By that means they have distressfully retarded the growth of demand and consumption. If insufficiently cooked, corn will separate from the water used in the brine. When it is permitted to freeze hard, the same result will be produced. "Maine style" corn is corn that has been cut and mixed with the milky cob scrapings. "Maryland style" corn is cut deeper and the cob is not scraped. 46 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Field corn is never used for canning purposes ; but fully matured sugar or sweet corn too old to can is sometimes used and gives the buyer the impression that it is field corn. Every canned corn label should have printed thereon a number of good tried recipes for favorite preparations of canned corn. The following recipes have all been tested and will bring deHcious results every time if directions are followed : Corn Soup. 1 can corn, 1 pint boiling water, I pint milk, 1 slice onion, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon salt, Few grains pepper. Chop the corn, add water, simmer twenty minutes, and rub through a sieve. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt and pepper. Green Corn Fritters. One can corn pulp chopped fine, one egg beaten until light, one- quarter cup flour, one-quarter teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pep- per, one-quarter teaspoon baking powder. Method: Mix dry ingredients and sift together. Combine the egg and the corn and add the liquid mixture to the dry. It may be necessary to add a little more flour as the fritters should be a little thicker than cakes. Drop by spoonfuls in deep hot fat and cook as doughnuts or cook until fritters are done throughout and are a deep golden brown in color. Drain and serve hot with brown sugar or with maple sugar syrup. May serve with cheese sauce. Cheese sauce: Thick white sauce to which paprika and grated cheese are added. Corn a la Southern. One can or two and one-half cups corn, three eggs beaten slightly, one teaspoon salt, a dash of pepper, one tablespoon butter melted, one pint scalded milk. Method: Mix all together, turn into buttered baking dish, set in pan of boiling water and bake in slow oven until tender. Scalloped Com. One can corn, two tablespoons butter, one cup rich milk, one tea- spoon salt, dash of pepper, one cup bread crumbs buttered. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 47 Method: Melt two tablespoons butter in frying pan. Add dry- crumbs, stir until all are coated. Grease baking dish, put in layer buttered crumbs and add corn and milk and seasoning. Sprinkle but- tered crumbs over top and bake in moderately hot oven until crumbs are brown. CHAPTER XIV. CANNED TOMATOES. The tomato, like many other good things, originated in America, being a native of tropical and South America. It was formerly called a Love Apple, and when first introduced into the United States was regarded as unwholesome and used only for purposes of ornamenta- tion or decoration. It is now more largely cultivated for canning purposes and more largely canned than any other vegetable. The United States and Italy use more canned tomatoes than any other countries. The vege- table grows to great perfection under Italian skies and the people of Italy use tomatoes in many ways. The finest of sauces and catsups as well as pickles are made from tomatoes, ripe and green. It is the most economical of all canned foods, and has been called the "poor man's meat." The packing sta- tistics during the past few years are as follows: Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Total pack Cases of 3 Doz. No. 3 cans each. n United States 1901 4,268,321 n United States 1902 9,282,812 n United States 1903 10,157,615 n United States 1904 8,516,846 n United States 1905 5,555,516 n United States 1906 9,074,965 n United States 1907. ...... . 13,467,476 n United States 1908 11,479,000 n United States 1909 10,984,000 n United States 1910 9,235,000 n United States 1911 9,749,000 n United States 1912 14,022,000 n United States 1913 14,206,000 The figures quoted include No. 10 and No. 2, as well as No. 2J^ sizes, all reduced to their equivalent in No. 3 cans in order to simplify comparison.. The largest production or output of canned tomatoes comes from the States named below, the first named being the largest producer, and the others in order as written, viz. : Maryland, Cali- fornia, Delaware, Indiana, New Jersey, Virginia, Utah, Ohio, Mis- souri, Kentucky, Tennessee, New York, Colorado, Pennsylvania, Illi- 4? HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. nois, Michigan, Iowa and nearly every other State in the United States to a greater or less extent. Primitively tomatoes were what is known as hot packed, that is to> say, boiled in a kettle and then sealed in cans, processed, etc. ; but that method has not been in vogue for many years and now the aim is to pack them as nearly solid and whole as possible. The standards for quality in canned tomatoes adopted by several associations of canners are as follows : Adopted by Tri-State Canners' Association, Maryland, New Jer- sey and Delaware (No standard adopted for fancy grades), by Ohio Canners' Association and by Indiana Canners' Association. Weights as given are the minimum. Contents of can drained on one-quarter-inch wire mesh flat screen for two minutes ; 98 per cent, of shipment to comply with stipulations ; 5 per cent, of shipment consid- ered fair average for testing. No. 3 Standard. — Gross weight, 37 oz., and 19 oz. of average ripe- tomatoes ; not necessarily all red. No. 3 Extra Standard. — Gross weight, 38 oz., and 20 oz. of well- selected ripe tomatoes. No. 3 Fancy — Gross weight, 38 oz., and 20 oz. of hand-packed, whole, ripe tomatoes. No. 2 Standard. — Gross weight, 23 oz., and 12 oz. average ript tomatoes; not necessarily all red. No. 10 Standard. — Gross weight, 118 oz., and 64 oz. average ripe tomatoes ; not necessarily all red. The Tri-State Canners' Association revoked above standard Jan- uary, 1914. Wilmington, Del., January 29, 1914. Whereas, the Standards for Canned Tomatoes suggested by the Committee of this Association January 28, 1909, have not to any considerable extent, been accepted and used by the members of this Association in their contracts for the sale of their goods; and, Whereas, the Agricultural Department at Washington, D. C, under F. I. D. 144, have a Regulation that is far pre- ferable to any Standard based upon net weight of solids ; and. Whereas, the National Canners' Association has ap- pointed a Committee to formulate a definition for a uniform Standard, therefore: Resolved, that the action of the Tri-State Packers' As- sociation, as of January 28, 1909, be, and the same is, hereby withdrawn and their Committee instructed to co-operate with the Committee of the National Canners' Association for the adoption of a National Standard. HOW TO BUY AND S^LL CANNED FOODS. 49 For a copy of Food Inspector's decision 144, above referred to, see Chapter LXV. Tomatoes are also packed in 5-inch, 53^-inch, 5%-inch and 6-inch cans, and a few in No. 6, or half-gallon, and No. 1, IJ/^ and 23^ sizes, as well as in individual sizes; but all these sizes are irregular and a matter of special contract. The sanitary or solderless can is being very largely and generally used in packing tomatoes — especially the fancy qualities, which are packed red ripe and as nearly whole as possible and must, therefore, be hand-packed instead of machine filled. Tomatoes produce heavily and are easily cultivated ; but they re- quire a large proportion of hand labor in canning, more so than peas, corn or string beans ; and in fancy grades as much as peaches or pears. There are numberless varieties grown, as nearly every packer believes he has the best variety and seed. The Stone tomato is a round, smooth, solid variety, and peels and cores nicely. The process of packing is not different from the general (which has frequently been described), except as to the peeling of tomatoes. They are scalded in live steam, then peeled by hand and put in cold water before being filled in cans. The standards and extra standards, packed in capped cans, are machine filled and, of course, are much broken in filling. Buying Points. — See that your contract not only quotes the grade but also specifies "subject to buyer's approval of samples," as there are many varieties of standards ; and the standards estabhshed by the packers are prudently very indefinite as to details. For illustration, the peeling may be irregular; a too large pro- portion of green pieces may prevail ; the stock may have run so green that the cores had to be cut out so deeply that all the seed cells are broken and thereby the goods are caused to look Hke a can of soft pulp and seeds ; or the goods may be hot packed by some fellow who hasn't anything much but a shed, a kettle and a retort. There are hundreds of irresponsible and incompetent packers in the canned tomato business. Many instances of improper or insufficient sterilization occur every year and some fence corner packers slap the labels on the cans before they are cooled, load them, and draw a sight draft against the shipment in order to get money to continue packing. Then, if you pay the draft and the goods arrive with about six swells and many rustles to the case, it will be sometime before you get your money back. Look up the rating of the cannery you place your contract with and pay a few cents more if necessary to a responsible party. The "will of the wisp" fellows frequently do not last long enough to permit you to collect for your swells, and they are hurtful to the canning business. 50 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. If buying for your own label, contract for a pinch of salt in each can, as it sweetens the flavor and counteracts undue acidity. In sampling, taste the flavor. In buying fancy stock see that the goods are packed as near red ripe as possible. Do not require that they be too near whole. A ripe tomato is preferable to a whole tomato partly green, and tomatoes must be packed somewhat green or unripe if they stand up firmly whole in the can or when poured out in a dish. Selling Points. — In showing tomatoes cut your can on the side. Nothing is so strong a proof of inexperienced salesmanship as a can cut on top. It always gives a bad impression. Spoon your sample from the bottom. That is to say, lift the contents gently above the liquid, but don't stir them up or pour them out if you can avoid it, as the green pieces or badly peeled pieces may be at the bottom. Sell as few standards as possible and work hard to get your buyer to take extra standard and fancy grades. In showing your fancy grades of tomatoes, get a white enameled lined pan or a glass dish; cut the can on the side all the way round from seam to seam, and then hold your hand over the tomatoes and let the contents slide out gently into the pan or dish. The tomatoes will hold their shape that way, and it is best to pour ofif a little of the water before pouring out the tomatoes. The canned tomato is the largest seller in the canned foods line and, by careful handling and study, can be made very profitable to both wholesaler and retailer. Any donkey can sell standard tomatoes or granulated sugar at cost if you will pin an advertising price tag on him and hitch him in front of your store; but it takes salesmanship to sell high grade and profitable goods. ' CHAPTER XV. CANNED SALMON. The canned salmon industry has existed in the United States more than 60 years. Previous to that time a few salmon were caught and canned on the Atlantic Coast. In 1852 WiUiam Hume, with two as- sociates, James Booker and Percy Woodson, established the first sal- mon cannery, a very crude affair on the Sacramento River, just op- posite the city of Sacramento, then a mere village. In 1856 he asso- ciated with himself Andrew S. Hapgood and his brothers, John Hume and George W. Hume, also embarked in the salmon canning business on the Sacramento. From this humble beginning the industry of canning salmon has grown to enormous proportions. The annual pack is now more than HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 51 seven million cases of salmon, containing each four dozen i6-oz. cans, and salmon canning is one of the greatest food-producing industries of the world. The demand for canned salmon has grown gradually so that peo- ple are now familiar with the splendid value of the product. A can contains 16 oz. net of solid, wholesome, nutritious and palatable food, which is of far better economical value than meat. In the introductory period people had to be educated to use canned salmon, and at several stages of the process there was an overproduction and periods of great depression and loss. The high prices of what are usually termed meats and the per- sistent and intelligent advertising by salmon packers, together with their conscientious adherence to putting quality into their cans, has now brought the demand to such a point that it is no longer a ques- tion of how much salmon can be sold. The anxious inquiry on the part of the dealer, is to how much salmon can be produced and what portion of the production can he obtain. Governments, national, state and foreign, are taking cognizance of the importance of this valuable food resource; and laws calculated to protect salmon from extermination, as well as government and private hatcheries for the propagation of salmon, are now effective and numerous. I shall not treat the varieties of salmon caught and canned from a scientist's standpoint, giving to each its ichthyological scientific name, nor shall I enter into the deeply interesting history of the fish and the mystery of its life and being. The commercial and utilitarian point of view is the one my audience is chiefly interested in, for they are dealers in and distributors of canned salmon. Salmon is packed in three standard sized cans : 1 pound tall, 1 pound flat, and Yi pound flat. The 1 pound tall is the chiefly important product and is packed and filled almost wholly by machinery. The flat cans, 1 pound and Y^ pound, are hand-filled; therefore canners are indiflferent about packing them as they are more expensive propor- tionately because hand packed. On the average, the packers of canned salmon far surpass all other canned food packers in the carefulness of their work. Their labels are neat, their cases are heavy, strong and handsomely stenciled, their cans are usually lacquered to protect them from the rust; and the highest regard is paid among all salmon canners to cleanliness and wholesomeness. The greatest efficiency and perfection in putting their product on the market is also sought for. The Columbia River packers can the Chinook or Quinnat salmon. It is a fish that averages large, and, in perfection, is of superb quality, as to texture of flesh and richness of flavor. It is of rather a bright pink color, the fish averaging about 30 pounds, but sometimes running 52 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. as heavy as 80 pounds. The same identical fish is caught in Puget Sound, where it is known as Spring Salmon ; and in Alaska, where it is called King Salmon. The paramount objection to fine salmon is that the salters and picklers now take the largest and finest fish and leave the smaller fis'h to the canners — and these smaller fish are not so desirable for canning. Then, as spawning progresses, these fish undergo a physical change and the meat begins to turn white, sometimes running white meat on one side like codfish and beautiful pink on the other — which fault it is difficult to detect. The pack on the Columbia River is quite regular each spring, but is constantly decreasing in quantity as fish grow scarcer. The Columbia River salmon is losing its former great popu- larity for the reason mentioned, there being a decided preference for deep red colored salmon. Saukeye salmon, or Sockeye as it is usually but improperly writ- ten, is a name applied to the fish which is so largely packed on Puget Sound and on the Frazer and other Canadian rivers. It is a smaller fish than the Chinook, averaging only about 8 pounds, and its habits seem to be different from that of other species of salmon as it runs heavily in rivers opening into Puget Sound in quadrennial periods, running lightly in the oflf or lean years. The quadrennial periods occur the 3'ears after leap year— for illustration, 1905, 1909, 1913, 1917, etc. In Puget Sound and its tributaries this fish seems to run fatter than in Alaskan waters and to be of a brighter, livelier red color than Alaska canned fish. Then the season is longer and canners can pack with more care and attention to details on the Sound than in Alaska, where the work must all be done in about 30 days. Consequently, Sockeye salmon packed on the Sound or on Frazer River will be found to be richer in oil than Alaska-packed red fish, a piece of the belly fat being put in each can to produce oil. This is not done at the Alaska canneries. What is called Standard Red Alaska salmon is precisely the same fish as the Saukeye, Blueback and Red Fish. The product of the Puget Sound canneries brings a higher price for the reasons I have mentioned. The season for packing the fish in Alaska is very brief. Vessels usually leave San Francisco in May, fight their way through the ice in Bristol Bay, and arrive at the canneries in July. They leave in August to avoid being frozen in the ice, arriving in San Francisco in September and October. They take all their supplies and labor with them, and bring back the canned fish and their operatives. Medium Red, or Cohoe, or Silver salmon is very similar in size to the Red Salmon. The flesh of the fish is of excellent quality and flavor, but paler than that of Red Alaska or Saukeye. It runs or spawns late in the fall and close to the sea, in fresh water, and is HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 53 canned in a limited way in Alaska, more freely on Pugef Sound. There are several other designations for this salmon, viz : Oregon Red, etc. The Pink Salmon is a small fish, averaging about 5 or 6 pounds. It is more numerous than all other kinds of salmon combined. It swarms in the waters of South Eastern Alaska and Puget Sound. It is of softer flesh than other varieties and is a light pink or brownish color when processed in a can. It is nutritious and of good food value, but has little or no oil. The low price at which it is sold makes this salmon a splendfd food value. It runs in Alaska every year, but on Puget Sound only every other year. The run on the Sound was and is as follows : 1909, 1911, 1913, 1915. The Chum Salmon is a little larger in size than the Red Alaska or Saukeye Salmon, averaging about 10 or 11 pounds, and by some scientists is not regarded as properly belonging to the Salmon species. It is said to be a good fish when fresh, but very soft and mushy when cooked, and of pale color. The canned Chum or Dog Salmon, as it is frequently called, is of a dirty white color and has a rank, muddy flavor. Buying Points. — For your own label, buy salmon of packers of reliability and established reputation. Be careful to avoid the canned salmon sharks who deal in do-overs or off grades of salmon, canned after having been too long out of the water. Nothing is quite so mean or trouble producing as a lot of salmon which has do-overs or unsound cans mixed in, and there is no way to separate the good from the bad. Out of each shipment received cut freely a number of cans from different cases. Cut the can on the side near the top, from one side of the can seam to the other, and the contents will then slide out into a pan. Break up the salmon and see that it is not what is known as tips and tails, that is, consisting of the extreme ends of the fish near the head and tail. Also ascertain if the bones have been cooked soft, which is an evidence that it has been safely processed, and see that the meat is comparatively free from bruised pieces. The richer in oil the salmon is, the better the flavor usually. Do-overs cannot be told by the punches or vents on a can. Many cans are tested, revented and resealed, and are ^perfectly sound and sweet, though showing several resoldered vents. The test for unsound salmon is the nose. Any good can of salmon when first opened will exude a little gas and smell, tut it disappears at once. If the salmon is unsound, it will continue to stink for hours. It does not hurt canned salmon to freeze. Selling Points. — Cut salmon on the side, preferably at the end which has been upward in the case, or on the shelf, as the oil rises and will show at the top of the can. If it is stored in a cold place and you desire to show it to particu- lar customers, have a few cans kept near a heater, as cold congeals the 54 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. oil and prevents it from showing. Keep a few samples of your fancy grades in the warm salesroom on the shelves. Never cut a salmon can on top, always on the side. Nothing is so awkward to handle as a can of salmon cut on top. When you open the can see whether oil or water shows before you lift the lid of the can; if oil appears, lift lid carefully and let the buyer look at it before it is poured out; if no oil appears, turn the salmon out and break it apart lengthwise of the can to show the color and fibre of the fish. Break the tail pieces down the center, along the line of the vertebrae or back bone, and show the inside. If the salmon appears white on the top, explain that fat is white and a piece is fre- quently found on top; and pour out and break up for color. The one-pound flat cans are usually the best to cut and show, as they are filled by hand from the middle cuts of the fish and will gen- erally show the best oil color and fibre. Most large houses now use Saukeye Salmon for their fancy private labels, as it is very handsome and many people choose with tneir eyes. GENERAL INFORMATION. Chinook Salmon is packed in June, July and August and is ready for shipment from July to September. Saukeye Salmon is packed in July and August and is shipped from July to September. Red Alaska Salmon and Medium Red Alaska Salmon are packed in Alaska in July, but do not arrive at Pacific Coast ports for rail ship- ments before September. "■ Cohoe Salmon is packed in October and shipped in October and November. Pink Salmon is packed in August and September and shipped in October. Chum Salmon is packed in November and shipped in December. Many salmon canners print recipes upon their can labels. Here are some that have been tried and tested : Salmon Toast. To a cup of white sauce (see sauces) stir in a cupful of salmon which has been picked fine, and pour over rounds of crisp toast. This makes a delicious breakfast dish. Broiled Salmon. From one can of salmon remove skin, bones and oil. Pour lemon juice over the fish and let it stand ten minutes. Sprinkle with pieces of butter, pepper and salt. Turn out on broiler and broil over a clear fire. Care should be taken in removing fish from broiler. Serve with a drawn butter sauce, flavoring with lemon juice if desired. Garnish, and serve hot. ■1 og ZSi'^^' !Z < <^^0»^ a 1^ K S o O ^ r- O k> k> h P= ^ O a '^ / >^ ^ w w ^ ^ ■^i S Pi rr^ M ^% Sales of 2,000,000 per annum. Expense 08ji% Sales of 4,000,000 per annum. Expense 08%% Sales of 5,000,000 per annum. Expense 09% The percentage of profit would of course be increased with the volume of business, but not proportionately with the increase of ex- pense percentage. It is sufficient to conclude, however, that apparent and actual costs are far apart in the general conduct of a business, and that the in- credulity of salesmen, their lack of courage to ask and get prices, their predisposition to favor their customers, their inability to see be- yon 1 the mere fact that they are making a profit, no matter how small, their reluctance to contend for a profit and ask and get full and fair prices, their predisposition to fill up their trade with close staple goods and ignore the more profitable lines, — all these conjoin to keep their percentages of profits down to six and one-half, seven and eight per cent, on sales. The man who sells a full line of groceries at wholesale and makes nine per cent, is a notable exception and a "cracker-jack" if he has a trade of $50,000 or over. Analyze these figures, or percentages of profit, and you will find that they are less than the actual cost of doing business and will produce a loss instead of a profit. What are you going to do about it? There is only one thing that can be done and that is to give out actual costs instead of apparent costs. Is it honest when your men work on part profits or when their salaries are adjusted by the profit they make? It is not only honest, but absolutely essential to the success of your business and the permanency of their employment. Any other course would be dishonest to your business associates, to the stock- holders of your corporation, and to yourself. Any sensible reasoning and fair minded salesman knows that flat costs are not actual costs. He knows also that the percentages HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 69 of profit must be averaged in the wholesale grocery business; and that the loss incurred in selling sugar on a margin of two or three per cent must be counteracted by an added cost on other lines, for it cannot, under existing trade conditions, be added to the cost of sugar. I have never failed to convince a salesman of the justice and the fairness of such an adjustment of costs, if he had intelligence enough to understand facts and figures, logically presented. My experience warrants me in stating that canned foods will bring a profit over actual costs of ten per cent. I mean that the figured profit must average ten per cent, and that the difference between fiat cost plus the cost of freight and cartage into the store, and actual cost, should average not less than five per cent. When house brands or labels are used, this adjustment is simple and easy in its application; but when packers' brands are sold, without control of brands, it is very difficult, but it must be done. The adjustment must be graduated according to the average of sales on each article in the canned foods line — and each buyer in the line must be his own adjuster. Some goods are used as leaders in some localities, while in other places they are profit makers, and the cutting is done on something else. Here is a scale that will work out a five per cent, average in most localities. (Flat cost means cost, freight and cartage into store). Standard Ss, Tomatoes, add to flat cost 23^ cents dozen. Extra Standard 3s, Tomatoes, add to flat cost 5 cents dozen. Fancy 3s, Tomatoes, add to flat cost 10 cents dozen. Standard 2s, Corn, add to flat cost 5 cents dozen. Extra Standard 3s, Corn, add to flat cost 7>^ cents dozen. Fancy 3s, Corn, add to flat cost 10 cents dozen. Seconds, 3s, Peas, add to flat cost 5 cents dozen. Standard 3s, Peas, add to flat cost 7J4 cents dozen. Fancy 2s, Peas, add to flat cost 15 cents dozen. California fruits, 2j4s, add to flat cost 15 cents dozen. Salmon, Is Pink, add to flat cost, 5 cents dozen. Salmon, Is Cohoe, add to flat cost 7)4 cents dozen. Salmon, Is Red Alaska, add to flat cost 7>2 cents dozen. Salmon, 1st Red Sockeye, add to flat cost 10 cents dozen. Salmon, Is Columbia River, add to flat cost 10 cents dozen. From these figures other adjustments can be worked out by one's experience of the actual proportions of sales as to locality. The canned foods line must bear its burden of the loss on the close staples and of those unenumerated and unobserved items of expense which but few houses take into account — like the expense of samples ; the cost of swells and leaks that go over the time of guarantee and cannot be returned or collected for; reclamations from leaks, causing other cans to rust ; excess of cash discount allowed retail buyers over 70 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. that obtained from manufacturers, and a large number of similar "un- known quantity" expenses not experienced until an inventory is taken, the books balanced, and profit or losses figured. CHAPTER XXI. LIMA BEANS. These articles are for practical people engaged in buying, selling and distributing canned foods, and for busy men who haven't the time to spend in reading learned disquisitions upon the historical and botnnical derivation of various articles of food. They do, however, want all the practical available information, that will help them in buying and selling canned foods; and it should be understood that these chapters are written by a practical man, engaged daily in buying and selling the articles of which he writes, and for people who are similarly occupied. The packing of lima beans of late years has been largely con- fined to what are called the Henderson Bush Limas, although there are still packed some of the Large Butter Limas — which are grown upon poles, but which are scarce and are not very reliable or prolific bea'-ers. The Bush Limas are planted in rows about two feet apart and are cultivated very much like any other crop of beans or potatoes. When they are in the right condition for harvesting, the vines are cut up with a bean sickle, conveyed to the canneries, and put through a viner or threshing machine and handled and graded by a method very much similar to that used in handHng peas. After they are graded, blanched and washed, they are very thor- oughly and carefully hand-picked. More labor and care is required in handpicking lima beans than peas, as, even when gathered in good condition, the limas have from 3 to 5 per cent, of white beans or premature beans, which must be picked out and canned separately. After the limas are hand picked they are filled into cans by an automatic filling machine; but more care is required than in filling cans with peas, as the shape of the bean does not permit of such rapid or easy handling. The beans 'are graded by the best packers into four sizes : Tiny, fancy, medium and standard or large. The four sizes are obtained by sifting the beans over screens with openings 24-32, 30-32, 31-32 and 32-32 of an inch in diameter. Some green lima beans are packed or canned ungraded ; and it is claimed that a better flavor is thereby obtained. Those so claiming hold that the tiny beans are too immature and the large too ripe, and ATTRACTIVE WINDOW DISPLAYS SWIMMIMG POOL IN A LARGE PENNSYLVANIA ESTABLISHMENT A CLASS IN DOMESTIC SCIENCE HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 71 that the ungraded beans average a better and richer natural flavor, as flo ungraded peas. The white limas, which have been picked from the green, are packed separately and are labeled white limas and sold at a low price. Ohio, Michigan.. New York, New Jersey and Maryland are the States which give the most attention to the canning of green lima beans and which, therefore, produce the best goods. The Baltimore Exchange standard for green lima beans in cans is as follows : "Cans full of green beans, clear liquor." Lima beans are packed in No. 10 as well as in No. 2 cans, but they are mostly packed in the No. 2 cans, as the sale for the No. 10 size is quite limited. Green limas are packed in clear water with about a 254 per cent, salt solution, only enough water being used to cover the beans lightly and convey the sterilizing heat throughout the cans.. Some packers use a little sugar in the solution. There are some who prefer the flavor of the old fashioned Large Butter Bean or pole limas, claiming that it is much superior in flavor to the bush limas, and that it has a luscious richness or fatness which the bush beans do not possess. The canned lima beans form a most palatable and nutritious article of food, and, now that they are being graded and packed with care, are growing rapidly in popularity. Buying and selling points in canned lima beans are as follows: Uniform green color and freedom from white beans and broken beans. Uniform grading and freedom from irregularity of size. Freedom from the black or discolored liquor sometimes found in lima beans which have been packed in thin coated cans or which are several years old, as there is a natural acid in these beans which seems to dissolve the tin, and, coming in contact with the iron plate under it, discolors the liquor and even sometimes the beans. Soaked lima beans are the dried limas, steamed or cooked and processed in cans. They are usually packed in a syrup composed of 8J^ pounds salt, 4J4 pounds corn starch, and 12% gallons of water. They are very wholesome and palatable. They have more merit and flavor than nearly any other soaked or winter packed article in canned foods, not excepting pork and beans. They must, however, be branded "Soaked" in all the States. They are packed and sold to quite an important extent. It is a great pity that canned foods packers — or wholesale grocers for that matter — are not thoughtful enough to print several good re- cipes on the can labels of lima beans for their cooking and preparation, as there are many people, especially those of city raising or foreign birth, who do not know how to cook them. They should be highly 72 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. seasoned with salt and pepper, and plenty of butter or good cream should be used in cooking them. If packers or jobbers or label makers would reduce some of the trade-marks (which mean nothing) and some of the undecipher- able monograms and inartistic and irrelevant Buffalo, Bull, Dog, Bird or Negro heads and remove some of the impossible pictures of girls or farms or factories from their labels, merely putting an attractive vignette picture of the article on the can (the registered trade mark or design or word being reduced in size in order to make room for recipes), with the grades and the name of the owners of the label, on the front, they could place a nice collection of practical and tried recipes on the remaining space of each label, and the consumption of the goods would be heavily increased. ; ; CHAPTER XXII. AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES. This industry, which has grown to be a most important one, was started in the United States about 1875. It is said that the packing of American or Domestic sardines was begun in a practical and busi- ness like way by Julius Wolff, of the firm of Wolff & Reesing, of New York City, about 1877. It continued a small business for five or six years, and developed slowly; but has now so grown that the total output aggregates about two to two and a half million cases of sar- dines per annum. The fish caught and used for the packing of domestic sardines belong to the herring family and are said to be of the same species (Clupea) as the sardines of France, Portugal and Spain. The fish are caught in weirs built near the shore in the bays of the North Ailantic Coast. Eastport, Maine, is regarded as the center of the industry. These weirs are constructed usually of brush overlapped and intertwined. They are held in place by poles driven into the mud, the brush being built up so as to form walls around a water space with an entrance toward the sea. The rising tide brings the fish into these weirs and the ebb of the tide leaves them there, as the wings at the entrance are built so as to turn the schools of captive fish away from the open entrance. They swim straight ahead until they meet an ob- struction ; they then veer with the wings of the weir and follow their lines, never turning backward. Such weirs have been used for cap- turing fish from time immemorial. The principle is the same as is used in trapping salmon on the Pacific Coast, though salmon weirs or traps are made of woven wire and are much deeper and larger in ■every way. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 73 After the sardines are trapped fishermen come with their boats and a long seine. This they draw around inside the weirs and con- tract gradually until they get the fish into a small space, when they are dipped out with large dip nets and dumped into the boats. In which they are either taken direct to the cannery or, being transferred into a larger boat, are thus conveyed to a cannery. Sometimes the smaller boats are towed to the cannery by a tug or steamer. Most of the canneries are built directly upon and over the water, so that fishing boats can moor alongside and unload the freshly caught fish. When the boat arrives at the cannery the fish are lifted out in large baskets and put upon small cars or conveyors and taken im- mediately to the cutting tables. Much of this work is done by steam power. The center of the domestic sardine canning industry is at East- port, Maine, though Lubec, North Lubec, Robbinston, Jonesport, Perry, Maine, and other towns are important. In the process of canning the sardines pass from the scalers to the cutters. The latter remove the heads and the viscera. The fish are then put into nets, placed into running water and thoroughly washed. They are then placed in a vat of strong salting or pickling for about an hour, from which they are removed, drained, and placed en wire frames or flakes. These fram-es or flakes are then placed in a revolving or rotary oven where the fish are dried and partially cooked. (Great care must be exercised in this process so as to cook them just enough and not to discolor them.) After cooking the fish are removed to the packing room, where thev are packed in cotton seed oil or mustard sauce, or spiced with cloves, mustard seed, allspice and bay leaves. A few domastic sardines are packed in olive oil and put on the market at a higher price. The styles packed at present are about as follows : One-quarter decorated drawn cans, keyless, oil, 100 cans to a case. One-quarter decorated drawn cans, with key, oil, 100 cans to a case. One- quarter plain cans in cartons, with key, oil, 100 cans to a case. One-quarter decorated drawn cans, keyless, mustard, 100 cans to a case. One-quarter plain in cartons, with key mustard, 100 cans to a case. One-quarter decorated drawn cans, with key, mustard, 100 cans to a case. 74 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Three-quarter decorated cans, keyless, mustard sauce, 50 cans to a case. Three-quarter decorated cans, with key, mustard sauce, 50 cans to a case. Three-quarter plain in cartons, keyless, mustard sauce, 50 cans to a case. Thee-quarter decorated cans, keyless, spiced sauce, 50 cans to a case. One-quarter decorated cans, with keys, tomato sauce, 100 cans to a cyse. Three-quarter decorated cans, keyless, tomato sauce, 50 cans to a case. One-quarter decorated cans with keys, smoked, 100 cans to a case. When packed in the cans the sardines are put into a processing tank and cooked from one to two hours — depending upon the size of the can. They are then taken out, tested, cooled, cleaned and cased. Paper labels were at one time used on the cans, but no longer are. Eventually the domestic or American sardines may be packed in olive oil, and with such care that they will be equal to the French, or Norwegian or Portuguese sardines, as packers claim that the fish all belong to the same species, the great prolific scientific order of "Clupea" — with which Providence has filled the ocean in myriads beyond human computation. Buying and Selling Points — When buying domestic sardines ex- amine them carefully for over salting. If the fish have been delayed in the packing and have been salted down, they will be hard and tough as well as salty. They should also be examined for over-cooking or too heavy processing, which makes them soft and mushy and some- times destroys the shape of the fish. The most popular and acceptable size for quarter oil domestic sardines is eight to twelve fish, but packers claim that five to six fish, owing to their fatness, have the best flavor and value. In mustard three-quarter sardines the larger fish are used. The small difference of 35c. a case between key goods and keyless sardines is so trivial that no dealer is justified in continuing to handlts the keyless goods, since they are so much more inconvenient to the consumer. Packers were formerly in the habit of using a cheap quality of tin and a certain preservative in their pickle. This had the effect of dis- solving the tin coating and infesting the contents with salts of tin. It was also ascertained that a certain kind of feed found in the viscera of the herring or sardines was unwholesome to those consuming them. The United States Government established rigid inspection condi- HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 75 tions in the year 1911 ; so domestic sardines packed that year and thereafter are likely to be free from such objections. The industry is a great and growing one and destined to build up a grand source of food supply. The Pacific as well as the Atlantic Ocean teems with the fish ; and a few canneries are now established on our West Coast. There will be more. CHAPTER XXIIL SWELLS, LEAKS AND RUSTIES. A proliiic source of loss and annoyance to wholesale grocers and canners is the imperfect processing, and the careless storage of canned foods, coupled with the use of a cheap quality of tin plate and with rough and careless handling. Packers guarantee their products for certain lengths of time and agree to reimburse buyers for swells and leakers ; but such guarantees frequently expire before the goods are sold and retailers bring back swells for redemption at most any old time. If jobbers do not accept and redeem them, they lose customers. To avoid loss, a registration or card system should be installed whereby to keep record of the following facts : First — Each canned foods bill, when received, should be entered alphabetically as to the article, "corn," "tomatoes," etc., On a card, giving the quantity pur- cha?ed, the price, the freight, the date of the bill, the date of expiration of the guarantee against swells, the packer's name and location, and (most important) the name and location of the party billing the goods. It is the case about half the time that the goods are not billed by the packers, but by some agent, broker, or possibly by some other than the canner, and swells can only be collected for from the party billing the goods. Second — This card record should be gone over carefully about once a week, and swells and leakers charged back before the expira- tion of the guarantee date. Every sale ticket or contract of sale for canned foods should definitely state the term of guarantee against swells — signed by the seller, or broker, or agent, or both; and when a bill is approved or "O. K.'d" for payment, the sale ticket should be attached to it as a part of the record of the transaction, and so should the freight bill. A few cases, five or ten in each lot of canned foods, should be ex- amined for condition immediately on receipt. If any important per- cent-age of defective cans is found, a percentage, not less than five per cent, should then be examined. 76 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. If more than two or three per cent of unmerchantable goods is found in the second examination, the goods should be held subject to shipper's orders and the seller required to pay for the examination of the entire lot, so that it may be put in merchantable condition. Any percentage of swells or 'leaks or bad rustles over three per cent leads to the inference that he goods have been insufificiently or in- competently processed and are therefore unsafe to handle, as a lot of goods of that character will continue to develop leaks and swells in- definitely and cause endless disagreement with your customers and much loss. Such goods should be promptly rejected. A careful wholesaler will not turn out goods containing any im- portant proportion of swells, even though they are guaranteed so that the retailer is protected when he returns them. It is the shipper's duty to forward canned foods in merchantable condition ; and neither jobbers nor retailers want to be loaded up with a lot of swells, leaks or rustles. It is recognized as one of the vicissitudes of the business that tin plate is often imperfect and that a certain amount of rough handling breaks the tin coating or the solder, so that a certain proportion of leakers will be found in all canned foods. Most can makers make a small percentage allowance to packers for imperfect cans. There- fore, if only a small percentage of swells or leakers or bad rustles aie found, and the guarantee runs six months (or until July 1st), it is customary, in order to avoid the expense of examining the goods (which amounts to from three to five cents per case), to send the goods out and redeem the unmerchantable portion when returned by the retailers. A place to keep, classify and handle unmerchantable canned foods should be prepared on the top floor. Being so located, all odors arc prevented from permeating the house. The basement is the poorest place in the store to keep swells, as the cans rust and give packers the excuse that the goods were badly stored and an opportunity to refuse to redeem them. A fine arrangement for keeping and classifying such goods is to put them along the wall in the corner of the top floor, piling up tiers of empty boxes on their sides, open top outward, and putting each packer's goods together in the same box or shelf. Large boxes should be used if there is plenty of space, like Baker's Cocoa or French Mushroom cases, or No. 10 canned foods cases. The No. 3 canned foods cases can be used for small lots or miscellaneous cans. Boxes are much better than shelving, as they can be removed or changed when they become unsanitary or soiled, and can be replaced witn others without much cost. The repository, which is called the, "swell rack" or "the morgue," must be kept clean. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. ^7 A count of the stock in the swell rack should be taken on the first of each month by the man in charge ; the goods promptly charged up, and the bill mailed with a form letter, asking a remittance and tn- structions as to the disposition of the unmerchantable goods. It is customary, as a courtesy, to protect the packer by separating the pound goods with the soiled labels from the swells and leakers, and when the packer furnishes labels, to relabel such goods at the packer's expense and dispose of them. However, there is a class of trade in nearly every town or city which will buy sound goods with soiled labels at a small concession under the regular price. Bad rustles are generally classed with swells if they are so rusted that they cannot be sold, or scoured bright. Frozen canned foods should be stored in a dry, cool place until they thaw out. Freezing sometimes causes them to puff out like swells, but it is from the expansion of the contents from freezing. The puffing will subside in a few days after the goods are put in a ware- bouse, and the quality of the goods is seldom injured by freezing. If stored in a warm place, such goods will "sweat" and rust. If all packers would lacquer their cans, as do salmon packers and a few others, there would be but little trouble with rusty cans, — only about one cent per dozen would be added to the cost and many times that amount would be saved by the protection from rust. Rusty canned foods are caused by the empty cans being stored in sheds poorly protected from wet or snow, or by the filled cans being permitted to freeze and then stored in a warm place, thereby causing the moisture in the atmosphere to condense on the cold surface of the cans, causing them to rust. The only remedy for the trouble is to lacquer the cans. Aluminum lacquer is the best for this purpose, as it conceals the rust better than dark lacquer. It is very important not to let swells, etc., accumulate. The swell rack or morgue should be charged up once a month regularly, as pre- viously suggested. If allowed to accumulate several months, a large proportion of the goods will be lost through the expiration of the guarantee, and the filth and disagreeable character of the resurrection will increase tenfold. Some packers will want their swelled goods shipped back; some will want them dumped and destroyed; some will want the labels stripped and returned, and some will want their local brokers to ex- amine the goods before ordering them destroyed. In some cities the local health department condemns and destroys the swells, issuing certificates upon which the jobber makes claim against the manu- facturer. 78 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Do not sell swelled canned foods under any consideration what- ever to peddlers, to junk dealers, or to cheap consumers. It i:S dan- gerous to do so. The State and city health departments are likely to prosecute the venders ; and they, in turn, will throw the responsibility upon you. Should any sickness or death ensue, you could be mulcted for heavy damages. Beyond all such considerations, however, there should exist in the dealer such pride in his position as a purveyor to the public appetite as would cause him conscientiously to protect people from unwhole- some food — and swells are certainly unwholesome. All that I have so far said on this subject applies to canned foods under packers' labels. If you handle large quantities of canned foods under your private or house labels, it will be absolutely essential for you to have a perforating machine with which you can perforate your labels (before having them put on canned foods) with a cypher per- foration which will mark the labels with the packer's or seller's num- ber, and with the year and month bought. In that way a record can be kept and sv/ells, etc., billed and collected for just as if they bore the packer's label. CHAPTER XXIV. HOW TO REGULATE STOCK AND PURCHASES. A great artist, famous for his success in blending his colors, was asked how he mixed his paints. His reply was "with brains." T^^iat prescription must be largely followed in regulating stock and pur- chases. Carelessness, neglect, haste, speculation, lack of system, and the failure to keep proper records of incoming and outgoing goods, will lead to accumulation of dead stock, depreciation and loss. I am writing about canned foods; but my remarks under this heading will apply to stock and purchase regulation in nearly every department of a wholesale grocery house. A stock of canned foods should be regularly taken at least once a week, either by a competent stock clerk going through the house or through a system which some houses employ of having each floorman take stock of his floor at regular periods on loose sheets or forms. The count from these sheets should be entered on a stock book and the buyer should have this book ever present on his desk. A buyer should never give an order without knowing exactly the quantity on hand and whether there are not articles of similar grade and value which can be acceptably sold instead, and which are moving slowly. The quick turn over in canned foods is where the profit is made, and it must be remembered that all canned foods are depreciable and should not be kept over from one year to another. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 79 Brokers and packers will claim that canned foods, when well processed, will keep many years. The statement is misleading, other- wise packers would give several years' guarantee against swells and leaks ; bvit it is hard to get them to give over twelve months — and most of them refuse to guarantee beyond six months. When your stock is once taken and entered, in the book men- tioned at the close of this chapter, you have begun a record which will show exactly the number of cases in stock, how many have gone out since the previous week's stock taking, how many have gone in, how many cases you have sold for several weeks or months previously, and the condition of the goods. If you so desire, the original cost can be entered in the margin in a private cost mark, known only by you, thereby giving you a com- pact record of practical information at a glance that no other form will give so well. The books are exceedingly simple, durable and ■cher.p. They can be used in all other departments as well as in the department of canned foods. It is a small, compact book and con- A'enient to handle. Stocks must be taken at fixed dates, weekly, semi-monthly or oftener, and the intervals must be absolute, otherwise the record will be of little value. In buying, however, always, after looking at the stock book, send a clerk or telephone the floorman to verify the count on the article being considered. You thereby avoid duplicating pur- chases — which is a grievous source of over-stocking. Don't speculate. Buy goods with a view to turning them over at once in the current course of business. Don't buy canned foods to hold for a rise. They generally won't rise. Buy because the articles are of good value and because you believe they can be quickly sold. Buy goods that are not quick movers in the smallest quantities jou can, to get the lowest price, keeping in that way a well assorted stock with a small investment of capital. Don't get too buoyant, or overconfident, or ashamed to give out small orders for slow-moving goods. Frequent ordering is the way to have clean, bright, fresh stock, and small storage and interest expense. It is also the way to make money for the department. A buyer should turn his average canned foods stock over seven or eight times a year unless he runs heavily to house labels, necessi- tating the stocking of a large line and an extended variety of goods tinder private labels. In that case he will have to be content with turn- ing over his stock four or five tir/ies a year. Buy quickly and boldly when quick moving staple canned foods are offered below their value, but always consider the quality care- fully. If you are positive of the merit and of the cheapness of an article, don't hesitate, don't offer a lower price; buy it and buy the HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. line if you can ; don't divide a snap with your competitors ; but he sure that your stock will stand the quantity and that your distributive outlet is adequate to it. Confer with your wisest and ablest salesmen, when you can, about important purchases and get them interested in the goods "to arrive." Beware of poor qualities in canned foods and keep a sharp look- out for goods that run irregularly. A reputation for furnishing re- liable qualities, even in job lots or snaps, will make your business grow by leaps and bounds; but if your cheap standard tomatoes turn out to be poor seconds, or your cheap standard peas will bounce a foot off the floor when dropped or if the cans are full of "yellow boys," or if your big bargain in canned corn is full of flat sours, or if your good trade, in No. 1 tall Red Alaska Salmon turns out to be afflicted with stinkers or do-overs, all your labor will be in vain. The goods will be returned, the customers will blast you, the salesmen will curse you, and your department will lose money and prestige. Remember, always remember, that canned foods are to be eaten and that they are largely sold on confidence. Consumers and retailers cannot use X-rays on the cans or see the quality without destroying the returnable value of the goods; and, no matter how cheaply the goods are sold by you, they must have a good, edible, wholesome and economical value inside the can. Examine goods carefully and critically when they are received and before you pay for them. Do not be content with the examination of one case. Cut samples out of six, twelve or more cases, depending upon the size of the lot. Have a beam balance scale on your cutting table and weigh canned foods, gross and net weight; and if there is much irregularity of weight, open the cans and learn why. Don't be afraid to cut cans ; it pays to be particular and to compare qualities. Examine purchases carefully, as they come in, for swells, leaks ■jnd bad rustics. If they are in bad condition, make the seller pay for the labor of examining them and putting them in good condition. Don't turn out goods having any important proportion of leaks, swells or rustics in the cases. It will hurt your business. Retailers hold you, not the packers, responsible for such matters. Don't buy goods to job. The trade of your competitors or asso- ciate wholesalers is of no value. It is absolutely unsafe to buy canned foods with a view to jobbing them. You will have to under- sell everyone else in order to sell your competitor; he will not give you a preference at equal prices, and he will buy goods from you only in a reluctant and limited way. However, if your competitor is overstocked, or willing to sell an article as cheaply as you can buy it direct, and you need the goods, give him the preference. You thereby unload him and put him upon the market again. If you bring HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 8i other goods in to compete with him, you still leave him overstocked and anxious to sell at your cost and to keep you out of a profit. See that your packing room is kept free from broken cases of sold out goods. Establish the rule of turning out broken cases on the last orders for the goods where possible. Take a customer to the packing room now and then, and make a clean up. Prices need not be cut to do so. Watch your stock book; and when single cases appear that are not in regular quotations, make a list of them and have some sales- man close them out. Walk through your stock occasionally and examine the condition of goods and cases as to freshness of appearance. If you find a line dead, get out a case of samples and send to some of your "quick movers" among the salesmen, with special instructions. Check up your stock book at least once a month with your price or sales book to see if your stock is all quoted. I have no interest whatever in the stock book I recommend. It is for sale by S. W. Roth, editor of "The Wholesale Grocer," 186 N. La Salle Street, Chicago, from whom I bought those I used. He charges $1.00 for them singly, but makes a lower price by the dozen. The printed directions do not tell how to keep account of stock coming in between stock-taking intervals. This can be done when checking bills for payment, after goods have arrived, by writing the quantity received with a red pencil just above the regular stock figures; This will show when the additions to stock were made. This is not essential, but it is a convenient part of the record. The stock book with the short or flat leaf will give space for about 35 stock-takings ; and by using the double facing page, it will give space for 53 stock- takings. A symbol (X) can be used to signify bad order (to be marked after a lot of goods that needs overhauling) . Directions for Using the Stock Book. Take your present stock book and copy from it your present stock with lead pencil, and in classified and alphabetical order. Put the name of the article on the left in the wide space, put the classifica- tion heading at the top of the page, write the size, grade, number of dozen or pounds or any other information necessary on the line be- neath the name of the article in the wide space to the left (unless you can write small enough to get it all on one line.) Then date the top of the first ruled column and insert the number of packages opposite the line containing the name of the article. If you take stock once a week, date the top of the next column. You can take stock as often or as seldom as you choose. Use the short or flap page by turning backward when the columns on the first side of it are filled. This gives you a complete record of stock and movement of goods. L-9 1-16 1-23 41 33 29 83 71 61 20 16 11 14 9 3 41 ■:-2 19 20 n 14 22 12 55 20 13 9 89 63 49 41 33 18 29 18 35 41 32 23 11 9 7 82 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Here is a sample of entries : Canned Vegetables. Beans, Baked, 1913. 1-2 Van Camp's T. S., No. 3, 2 dozen 50 Van Camp's T. S., No. 2, 3 dozen 100 Van Camp's T. S., No. , 4 dozen 25 Van Camp's Plain, No. 3, 2 dozen 25 Van Camp's Plain, No. 3, 2 dozen 50 Van Camp's Plain, No. 1, 2 dozen 35 Snider's T. S., No. 3, 2 dozen 50 Snider's Plain, No. 3, 2 dozen 35 Snider's T. S., No. 3, 3 dozen 100 Snider's Plain, No. 3, 3 dozen 50 Snider's T. S., No. 1, 4 dozen 40 Snider's Plain, No. 1, 4 dozen 60 Snider's T. S., No. 10, >^ dozen 15 CHAPTER XXV. CANNED ASPARAGUS. Asparagus is a marine plant growing and thriving best near salt water. It is canned in a limited way on Long Island and at Oyster Bay in the East, but the soil is not well adapted to its growth. It is grown and canned to fine advantage and of fine quality in Utah, near the Great Salt Lake. When grown and canned in the interior, away from salt water, it is usually green, tough and unpalatable. It is largely cultivated in Europe, and the vegetable is reputed to be a fine diuretic and is frequently prescribed by physicians for urinary complaints. It is, however, grown to greatest perfection in California, and its production and canning in that State has become a very important industry. California asparagus is grown almost entirely on islands in the deltas at the mouths of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, below the cities of Sacramento and Stockton. That district is prac- tically at sea level, — in fact, the tides from the Pacific Ocean are felt throughout the entire delta region. That entire district is of a swampy character as is evident by the heavy growth of tule grass. This tule grass is to a very large extent responsible for these islands, each year's growth forming a kind of peat or tule island. These lands were originally subject to overflow at very high water, necessitating the building of levees. After the island is thor- HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 83 oughly protected by levees, the water remaining, or that which seeps in, is pumped over the levee back into the river. The soil of these islands is extremely rich and productive. It is a very light soil and will burn when dry if ignited. It is peculiarily adapted for the cultivation of asparagus. Asparagus is started from seed. The seed is taken from the plants the latter part of September and planted the following March about two inches under ground, in rows about 20 inches apart. These rows must be well cultivated during the summer following the planting. The latter part of November of that year, the roots formed are dug up and left out of the ground about a month. In the meantime the ground is thoroughly plowed and harrowed and struck off into rows about nine feet apart, with furrows about one foot deep between the rows. Then these same roots are planted deep and left to grow, about 18 inches apart, in rows about 13 inches deep, being well cultivated all summer and not cut over for market purposes. The tops of the plants are permitted to grow and are cut off in January. The ground is then ridged up and taken care of until spring, when the first cutting from the bed can be made. This first cutting does not amount to very much and should be of short duration so that the roots may have plenty of time to strengthen themselves before next season. The second year's cutting will increase quite a little over the first; but again the season of cutting should be short, so as to insure the roots' ga+hering plenty of strength and thus preparing themselves for heavier cutting the third year. In other words, the bed does not yield very heavily until the third cutting season, which is five years from the time of the first work toward planting is done. The quality of asparagus is regulated to a very large extent by the amount of care given the beds during the first three years of their existence. It involves a very heavy expenditure, and an endless amount of patience and painstaking work. The floods that do so much damage to this American industry are the direct result of warm rains, coupled with a very heavy snowfall in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It is not an unusual thing for there to be from 100 to 150 inches of snow on the level at points on the highest range of the Sierra Nevadas, where the Government has its observation station. The slightest break in the levee will generally result in the flood- ing of the island affected. If the levee is promptly repaired and the wati'r pumped out, the damage to the beds may be small. In many instances, however, it has not been possible to accomplish this, with the result that the beds were entirely ruined, causing a tremendous loss. 84 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Asparagus is cut just as soon as it breaks through the ground. L,ong chisels are used in cutting it below the surface. The stalk is at least 7% inches long when cut. Good asparagus is no sooner cut than it is delivered to the cannery, where it is assorted into the different grades and cut accord- ing to the cans to be filled. It is then plunged into cold water and taken to the sorting tables, where it is sorted over and over again and put into can?. As soon as the cans are filled, they are passed to the brine table and filled with a carefully prepared salt brine of about 12%. The cans are then capped and taken to the exhaust tub, where they are left in boiling water for five minutes, a vent hole having been left in the can. When they come from this exhaust tub, the hole in the cap i? soldered up. The cans are next taken to the retort, where they cook for from 30 to 35 minutes at a temperature of 333 degrees (in dry steam). Just as they come from the retort they are plunged into cold water. When cool, the cans are taken to the warehouse, where they should remain about three weeks before being shipped. Every detail connected with the handling of asparagus is the very personification of cleanliness; in fact, to visit a cannery when it is in active operation is to satisfy one that nothing could be more whole- some, more sanitary or more hygienic in every respect than asparagus when handled in this way. Some packers are not so favorably situated ; in fact, some of them have their cannery located in San Francisco, depending upon the city market for their supply. .A-sparagus for the city markets and for canneries located away from the beds is cut during the day and loaded on steamers that pass down the river in the evening, reaching its destination sometime in the morning and not reaching the canners before noon. In other words, the asparagus would be at least twenty-four hours out of the ground before it is put into cans. When packed at the beds it is in the cans within two hours from the time it is gathered, hence the great difference in the quality of the different packs. When asparagus beds are cut over too long, the roots do not have an opportunit}' to recuperate before the new crop, with the result that the size of tlie asparagus gets smaller every year, and tough. Asparagus is much better when canned crisp, or quickly after being cut. The stalks are assorted into green or white and into five sizes. Defective or crooked stalks are cut into soup stock. The five sizes are designated as giant (about 13 stalks to a No. 3J4 square can), mammoth (30-23 stalks), large (30-33 stalks), medium (38 stalks), and small (45-50 stalks). HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 85 Asparagus tips are packed in No. 1 square cans. They are cut from small stem asparagus and graded as to the number of tips in a can. Peeled asparagus is made from the larger stalks from which the tough surface is cut or scraped. The asparagus beds are mulched or covered with straw or as- paragus tops. This has the effect of bleaching the asparagus, keeping the tips from the sun. The consuming public is coming to understand now, however, that the green asparagus is even of better or sweeter flavor than the pure white. There are numerous varieties of asparagus — all regarded as good except a certain kind that is found with purple colored tops when canned. This is not considered a good flavored kind. CHAPTER XXVI. CANNED PEACHES. The peach is a deciduous annual fruit. That is to say, it blooms and bears fruit only once in twelve months. It is reputed to have ■ originated in Persia and Northern India, but is now cultivated throughout the world in the lower temperate or higher tropical lati- tudes. The nectarine is a variety of peach having smooth skin while the other varieties of peaches have downy or velvety skin. Peaches are ■extensively grown in the United States, especially in Delaware, Mary- land, New Jersey, Georgia, Arkansas, Texas, California and to a greater or less extent in nearly every State in the Union. Being a semi-tropical fruit, however, it does not thrive in this country in localities north of the 45th parallel — and, in fact, is rather uncertain as to yield in localities north of the 42nd parallel. There are three well recognized varieties of the fruit, viz. ; The Free Stone, known as Yellow Free or Yellow Crawford, which is a soft, rich and luscious fruit ; Lemon Cling or Orange Cling, a fine, firm yel'ow fruit which adheres to the stone or pit and must be cut off, and the White Heath or White Cling, a very fine flavored peach, the meat of which is white. These are the three varieties which are gen- erally cultivated and best known; but an extensive and almost end- less number of varieties has been produced by orchardists, many of them of fine fibre and delicious flavor, known or called usually by the name of their original producers,— such as The Phillips Cling, The Levi Cling, The Solway, Muir, The Gold Drop and the Elberta, but -not all of these are suitable for canning purposes. 86 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. The peach is the most popular and the most useful of all fruits cultivated in the United States for preserving or canning purposes. It is also very popular for evaporating or drying. Peaches are usually peeled, pitted and halved, then put into the cans and processed. The degree of syrup put upon the fruit regulates the value to an important extent. It ranges from ten degrees, which is the required degree for standard fruit on the Baltimore Canned Foods Exchange, to 40 de- grees. The degi ee of syrup so expressed does not convey to the unitiated an adequate idea as to how much sugar is used, which is shown as follows : In 10 degrees syrup, 2^ pounds of sugar is used to the gallon of water. In 15 degrees syrup^ 3J^ pounds of sugar is used to the gallon of water. In 30 degrees syrup, 4J4 pounds of sugar is used to the gallon of water. In 30 degrees syrup, 6)^ pounds of sugar is used to the gallon of water. In 40 degrees syrup, 8 pounds of sugar is used to the gallon of water. When too heavily processed canned peaches turn pink or red in the can. This does not damage them as to flavor or wholesomeness, but renders them unsightly. Peaches preserved, or cooked in open kettles always turn red. In California canners have established the following grades of canned fruits : Double Extras, 40 degrees syrup ; Extras, 30 degrees; Extra Standards, 25 degrees syrup; Standards, 15 degrees syrup ; Seconds, about 5 degrees syrup ; Water Grade, no syrup and peeled and unpeeled Pie Fruit in water. In Baltimore the grades are : Extras, 20 degrees syrup and up- ward; Standards, 10 degrees syrup; Seconds, without syrup and un- peeled pie fruit. The degree of syrup used on different kinds of fruit is not uniform, however. Pears and cherries require less syrup and plums more than the average Packers aim to make the goods palatable and to pu'L enough syrup in their table fruit to please the taste and not so much as to destroy freshness and naturalness of flavor. California peaches are packed in No. 10, No. 3, No. 2 and No. 1 size cans. Fine canned peaches are packed in Michigan, New York, Georgia, Texas and Arkansas, usually in No. 2>4, No. 3 and No. 10 cans of the several grades and qualities. Sliced peaches are also canned and are quite popular and salable. Some prefer the flavor of Eastern peaches to the peaches of the Pacific Coast because of the degree of acidity found in the latter. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 87 There are three methods of peehng peaches, hand peeling, machine peeling and brush peeling. Hand peeling is done by hand with sharp knives. Machine peeling is done with several kinds of appliances and can be recognized by the regularity of the width of the peeling removed. It is usually not perfect unless completed by hand. Brush peeling is done by dipping the fruit in scalding water and then running it over and under a line of stiff brushes. These remove the peeling. Peaches are also peeled by steaming until the skin loosens or by pass- ing the fruit through a weak solution of lye. It is claimed by some packers that the flavor of the fruit is best preserved by hand peeling; but this claim is regarded by other packers as more sentimental than real. Bakers tise peeled pie peaches in No. 10 or gallon cans, and prefer the yellow free to the cling varieties, as the free peach packs closely in the can and will make more pies to the can than the firm cling fruit. Preservers, on the other hand, prefer the lemon cling peeled pie fruit, as it is firmer and retains its shape. Unpeeled pie fruit in No. 10 and No. 3 cans is used to some extent but is poor stuff, the re- jected or fallen fruit being largely used in canning the grade. Salesmen should always urge their customers to buy as high grades of canned peaches as possible. It is better to have a complaint seldom give satisfaction and make no friends for retailer or wholesaler of the price than of the quality. Peaches in water, or without syrup, unless when bought and used for pie fruit. CHAPTER XXVII. ESTABLISHED SIZES OF CANS. Salesmen should understand thoroughly and should inform their customers that there is no such thing as selling canned foods by weights (with one or two exceptions, which we give below). The sizes of cans were established originally in this country by the Baltimore Canned Foods Exchange many years ago. Cans are designated by number, not by pounds as follows: No. 1 cans, 2% inches in diameter, 4 inches in height. No. 2 cans, 3 7-16 inches in diameter, 4 9-16 inches in height. No. 3 cans, 4 3-16 inches in diameter, 4% inches in height. No. 10 cans, 6^4 inches in diameter, 7 inches in height. California has established a standard size for cans known as No. 3% size. They must measure 4 inches in diameter and 4% inches in height and California packers designate the No. 10 cans as 'No. 8 cans. Salmon is packed full weight, or 16 oz. net, to the No. 1 can, tall or flat ; and 8 oz. net to the No. >^ cans. Lobster is canned the same 88 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. way. Canned meats are also packed full weight. These are the ex- ceptions to the rule. Syrup is also heavier than water, and goods in heavy syrup weigh more than those in light syrup. The average weight of a filled No. 10 can is from 634 to T'J^ pounds gross (can and contents). The average weight of a No. 3 can is from 37j4 to 40 ounces gross. Of a No. 3>4 can the average gross weight is from 33J4 to 35 ounces. A No. 1 salmon or lobster can should weigh from 18j4 to 20 ounces and cut out 16 ounces of meat. Oysters and crabs are packed in the Baltimore size cans. They are not full weight 16 ounce goods, but are sold by number or size of can. Clams are packed usually in the larger size No. 1 cans, but are not full weight. Some States require that the net weight of the contents of cans be printed on the labels. In vegetables or fruits this can only be esti- mated, as there must be a certain amount of water in the cans to act as a conductor of heat through the contents so that they may be properly and sufificiently sterilized. In addition, some substances have a denser fibre than others, and weigh heavier. Bulletin No. 10 of the National Canners' Association, dated Feb- ruary 13, 1913, in part, reads as follows : "StEmdardization of Can Sizes. — At a recent meeting in Chicago, Messrs. George W. Cobb, Thomas G. Cranwell and W. R. Olney were appointed a committee on the above subject. After a careful study of the subject those gentlemen made a report stating that they had agreed upon the following sizes, that is to say: Hole and Cap Cans. Diam. Height. No. 1 size 311-16 4 No. 2 sys 4 9-16 No. 2^ 4 4% No. 3 4ij4 inches 4 3-16 4% No. 3 5 inches 4>4 5 inches No. 3 5 J^ inches 414 554 inches No. 10 _ 6}i 634 Sanitary Cans. No. 1 size 2 11-16 4 No. 2 3 7-16 4 9-16 No. 2>4 4 1-16 4^ No. 3 47^ inches 4J4 4% No. 3 5 inches 4J4 5 inches No. 3 5^A inches -. 4% 5^4 inches No. 10 6 3-16 7 It will be noted that the standard sizes recommended represent no changes whatever in most cases, and such changes as have been made are minor. There are no changes whatever as regards diameters. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 89 It was found that while there are some slight variations in cans made by different manufacturers, still these were insignificant and would make no appreciable difference in capacities. Nevertheless, it is thought best that any variations, however slight, should be done away with and uniform standards adopted by all. CHAPTER XXVIII. CANNED PINEAPPLE. The pineapple is a tropical fruit which originated in tropical America, but is now extensively cultivated throughout the tropical and semi-tropical world. It is called "Pineapple" because the shape of the fruit and its external appearance is somewhat like that of a cone from a pine tree. Pineapples grow on a low plant with serrated, sharp pointed leaves, each plant bearing only one pineapple. They are propagated entii-ely by crowns or suckers, as perfect seeds are hard to obtain. It is probably next to peaches in importance as a fruit for canning purposes and the canned article is growing in popularity and increas- ing heavily in annual consumption. It is a fruit with the steadiest value of any, as the crop is affected only by drought and is now of such extended cultivation that sufficient for canning purposes can nearly always be obtained. Pineapple retains its flavor perfectly when properly canned, and is a most delicious and wholesome fruit. We, for many years, relied upon the Bermudas and West Indies for pineapples; but the fruit is now cultivated, in a small way, in Florida, Porto Rico, The Isle of Pines and Central America, and extensively in Hawaii, the Malay Peninsula and elsewhere in the tropics. The pineapple pack for the season of 1907 and 1908 was as follows : Packed at Singapore, Malay Peninsula 794,100 cases Packed in Hawaii 247,000 cases Packed in Baltimore, Md 154,000 cases Packed in Bahama Islands 68,000 cases Packed in Florida 5,700 cases Packed in Cuba 1,300 cases Packed in Trinidad 900 cases Total 1,399,900 The United States consumed about one-third of the pack of Singapore, and nearly the entire pack of Hawaii, Hsltimore, the Bahamas, Florida and Porto Rico in that season. Since that t'me the output of Ilav/aii has enormously increased — being in 1913 about 90 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 750,000 cases, and in 1913, about 1,000,000 cases. Singapore pineapples have not been imported to any extent since 1910, as a tariff decision as to syrup practically precluded its use in the United States. A great advantage enjoyed by the pineapple packers located in the Bahamas, in Hawaii, in Singapore and in some othe.r localities where the pineapple is grown, is that it can be packed there at the proper and perfect stage of ripeness, or as has been said, "with the sunshine in the can." When packed in localities far distant from the place where grown, pineapples must be gathered before they are ripe and allowed to ripen in transit, as they would not stand shipping if gathered when fully ripe. This artifically ripened fruit is, therefore, white, fibrous and tough, and not so well flavored as the pineapple which is packed where grown. The styles of packing are various and are as follows : Whole, Sliced, Grated, Cubes, Chunks, Smooth, Spiral Sliced, Whole Sliced Cored, Half Sliced Cored and not Cored, Shredded, Crushed and Pie Grated. Singapore Pineapple is packed in tall cans containing a whole pineapple, peeled, in syrup, but not cored ; in cans containing 5 pounds net of chunks in about 14 degrees of syrup; in tall cans containing 1% pounds of pineapple in entire smooth slices cored, or in entire cored spiral-edged slices ; in flat cans containing 1^ pounds net in chunks which are about one inch square on the ends, extending in length the full depth of the can ; in flat cans containing about 1J4 pounds of about one inch cubes; in cans designated as No. 1, which contain about % of a pound in chunks, and finally in cans containing sliced whole and cored pineapples. For some time the Government so construed the Dingley Tariff that Singapore pineapple could be imported in light syrup only. This constrviction was modified in 1910, and importations after that were much improved in quality, being packed with heavier syrup. This grade of pineapple is produced very cheaply because of the cheap labor used in its cultivation and preparation. It, however, is inferior in flavor to either Hawaiian or Bahaman or the best Baltimore packed pineapple, as insufficient care is used in the selection and handling of the fruit. It sells because of its cheapness, but it is not a good repeater. Buyers should handle it cautiously and in small lots. The Payne Tariff increases the duty on this article and will increase the price about ten or fifteen per cent. Look out for swells and leakers in Singapore pineapple. It should be thoroughly examined at once on arrival, as importers give only a 30-day guarantee against swells. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 91 Hawaiian Pineapple is packed in cans designated by size or num- ber like all canned fruits packed in the United States, Hawaii now being a part of this country. Pineapple packed in Hawaii is of a fine, luscious ripeness and most delicious flavor. The sliced is packed in No. 2 and No. 23^ cans, and each can con- tains from seven to nine whole sHces, peeled and cored, in rich syrup. This description applies to the extra or fancy goods. The standard grade is not quite perfect as to the slices, some of them not being entire, and the syrup is a little lighter ; but it is otherwise as good as the extra grade. The crushed and grated styles of Hawaiian pineapple in No. 2 and No. 10 cans are in great demand by confectioners and soda-water dispensers. The pineapple packing industry is comparatively new in Hawaii, but as the product comes in free of duty and is of such delicious tender- ness and flavor, the demand, so far, has exceeded the supply. An ex- tensive advertising campaign instituted by the packers of this fine article, in which its merits v^ere described in many of the publica- tions of highest popularity and circulation in this country, created a general and heavy demand for it. Very little canned pineapple from Cuba, Trinidad, Florida or Porto Rico comes on the Western market, our grades being confined to Hawaii, Singapore, Baltimore and Bahama packing. Grated Pineapple is of several grades, and is packed in various sized cans. Extra is packed from clear fruit, free from eyes and cores, and in heavy syrup. Standard is packed in fair syrup, from fruit clear of eyes, but the cores are crushed with the fruit. Pie grated is made from the second peeling of the fruit and has considerable of the eye or inner hull of the pineapple in it. It is packed in water. Shredded and crushed pineapple are merely certain styles of preparation and are more especially for confectioners' use. Bar cut pineapple is used in mixed drinks and is a half slice, not cored, in syrup. Cocktati pineapple is in heavy syrup, is coreless and eyeless, and is forked up into small pieces to be used in mixed drinks. Selling Points. — Pineapple in cans is of a most grateful flavor and i-= liked by people of most all nationalities. The canned article is much superior to the green fruit imported and sold in fruit stores. The fruit is delicate and decays quickly. It is, therefore, imported partly green and is fibrous and tough and much inferior to canned pineapple. This fruit retains its naturalness of flavor when canned more perfectly than any other. It is usually, when canned, quality con- 92 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. siclered, cheaper than any other fruit and is a wholesome and econom- ical product, keeping so for many years. It is an article that brings the retail grocer a nice profit and that will, for any extra attention he devotes to it, reward him by attracting and holding trade. CHAPTER XXIX. CANNED PEARS. The pear is a fruit belonging to the same botanical genus as the apple. It is of ancient origin, going back into great antiquity. The pear tree is hardy, even more so than the apple tree. It is a fruit of the temperate climate, but thrives best in the middle and higher lati- tudes. Throughout the world there exists an almost numberless va- riety of pears, but those best known in the United States and used for canning purposes are the Bartlett and the Keifer varieties. The Bartlett pear is a soft and deHcious fruit. It is of such sweet- ness naturally that only a light syrup is desirable. A heavy syrup is not needed and tends to spoil the natural freshness and delicacy of flavor of the fruit. California grows glorious Bartlett pears of large size. Washington and Oregon also produce splendid pears. Good judges, however, agree that the New York Bartlett pears, though smaller, are of finer fibre and more delicately delicious than the large fruit grown on the Pacific Coast. Improvements are being made, however, in California and Oregon by grafting; and it is pre- dicted that the coast fruit will, ere long, be unexcelled in flavor as well as in size. Keifer Pears are very hardy and usually quite hard. They ripen so slowly that canners are sometimes compelled to remove them' from the trees to protect them from freezing, and to ripen them by packing them in dry straw before putting them in cans. This pear has not the natural sweetness of the Bartlett variety and a libei-al use of syrup is essential to make it palatable. It is very difficult to process canned pears sufficiently to hermeti- cally seal them in cans and at the same time avoid discoloring them, as an excess of heat is sure to turn them pink or red in the can. While thi« does not injure their flavor or render them unpalatable or un- wholesome, it does spoil the appearance of the fruit. All pears are hand peeled, carefully cored and stemmed and im- mediately dropped into a light solution of salt water to protect them from contact wdth the atmosphere and consequent discoloration. They are processed not longer than ten or twelve niinutes, or about half the usual time; but that seems sufficient to cause them to keep and yet retain a bright, white color. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 93 Keifers or other hard varieties of pears should be peeled, cut in quarters and the seeds and core removed. Bartlett pears are softer and are usually cut in halves, the stem being sometimes left on one half. Ihe seeds and cores are then removed and the cans processed, being filled with water or a light or heavy syrup as required. The Selling Points. — Bright, color; freedom from red or pink dis- coloration from over cooking; nicety of handling shown by careful coring and peeling; syrup not so light as to leave them unpalatable, and not so heavy as to spoil their flavor ; cans well filled, and fruit free from specked or imperfect pieces. CHAPTER XXX. CANNED LOBSTER. In the packing of lobsters there are perhaps more difficulties and disappointments than in the packing of any other canned product in tins. It often happens that severe storms destroy lobster traps and fishermen's gear, bringing the entire packing business to a standstill. The method of catching lobsters is interesting. Traps are placed anywhere from one to seven miles from the shore. These traps are a box-like contrivance about four feet long, two feet wide, and one and one-half feet high. They are made from common laths, in the center of each end being a small, round opening about 4J4 inches in diameter. An inclined plane runs to those openings, and the openings are large enough to permit lobstersi' weighing from one pound to four pounds to crawl through. Once inside the trap, the lobsters cannot get out. The inclined plane is missing and they cannot get up to the opening. It is the choice bit of bait inside the trap which inveigles the lobster to enter. Herring is principally used for bait. The traps are put in the water on a trawl line, this being a long rope anchored at both ends with a buoy at each anchor, to mark the placing of the trawl. The traps are attached to this trawl line, there being 35 or 30 on each line, placed about 10 feet apart. Each trap has sufficient stone weight inside to sink it to the bottom and hold it there. One fisherman will fish from perhaps 100 to 125 of these traps. The fishermen start at one end of these trawls and haul in one trap at a time until all have been taken care of. The lobsters are removed from a small door in the top of the trap, and then, after fresh bait has been arranged, the trap is again lowered to the bottom. Each trap will catch at a setting anywhere from one to eight lobsters. The fishermen bring the lobsters directly to the factory where they are picked over carefull)' and dead lobsters thrown out. Only live lobsters are put through the process of canning. 94 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Three or four hundred pounds are put in boihng tanks. After boiling the proper length of time, the lobsters are taken out and placed on coolers. After cooling, so as to permit handling, the claws and tails are broken off and go through the process of canning. The bodies are thrown aside as waste and are not packed in any form. That part of the help called "crackers" now take the claws and tails, removing the meat therefrom. The meat is cleaned thoroughly before being placed on the packing table. Here it is placed in the cans, and the cans later go through the process of sealing. The cans, with their contents, are placed in boiling water for a certain length of time, after which they go into retorts for a thorough cooking. After coming from the retort, the cans are cooled and are then ready for labelling and boxing. Practically all the canning is hand work, it being impossible to satipfactorily employ machinery in handling lobsters. The inside of lobster cans is coated with oiled parchment paper to protect the meat from contact with the tin. There is so much natural phosphorus and iron in the chemical composition of lobster tissue that it acts upon tin and turns the meat black unless protected from contact. This discoloration, if slight, is of no detriment and is of no im- portance. It will not do, however, to keep lobster in tin over one year, as it is very apt to turn black and to become unfit for use. Don't sell your customer a supply to last more than a year. There is a difference as to lobsters caught on a clear gravely bot- tom and those caught on muddy bottoms. The latter are much more apt to discolor in the can because, as it is supposed, of the influence of the iron In the mud upon the flesh of the lobster. A grayish tinge to the canned meat is evidence of the lobster being caught near shore on muddy bottoms, and does not essentially discredit the quality. The meat from the claws is more tender than that from the tail and is held by some to have the sweetest flavor. The catch has been regulated to such an extent by law, and the supply has decreased so in a few years past, that prices have heavily advanced, and are not likely to be lower soon. This product is popular all through the world, and principally comes from the Northeast Coast of the United States and the East Shores of Canada. Lobsters are not found in tropical waters. A product called lobster from Africa and from Cuba has been put in cans and offered at a low price; but it is exceedingly tough and devoid of flavor and hardly worthy of com- mercial attention. Wholesale grocers should get a heavy margin of profit on canned lobster as reclamations and the return of cut cans showing discolora- tion are frequent and canners do not back up such claims very cheer- fully or promptly. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 95 Selling Points. — Canned lobster should be of bright color, the cans carefully lined with oiled paper so as to protect the rneat from contract with the can, the labeling should be neat and attractive, as the article is high priced, and the tin ghould be extra heavy coated. CHAPTER XXXI. CANNED APPLES. In fruits the apple ranks as the most important in the United States and its annual yield has much influence upon the price and consumption of other fruits. It grows in higher latitude than other fruits, because it blooms late, thereby escaping the late frosts of spring. It is, therefore, a more reliable crop than other fruits. In its wild state it is known as the Crab Apple, a sour, inedible fruit used only for jelly, cider and preserving, but it has been culti- vated and improved until it is a most wholesome, abundant and de- licious fruit known throughout the world in almost infinite variety. It is cultivated in all European countries, in India, China, British North America, the United States, and in fact all over the world. It thrives better in the temperate zone than elsewhere. In order of importance as written, the States which produce canned apples in the United States are : New York, Michigan, Maine, Ohio, Virginia, Maryland, Missouri, Indiana, and a few other States. Canners pack apples in No. 2J^ and No. 3 cans, and largely in No. 10 cans, very few being packed in No. 2 cans. Firm, tart apples are the best for canning purposes, therefore the late fall or winter varieties, like Baldwins, Greenings and Spies are the best. Canned apples are usually packed in water for pie purposes and seldom otherwise except in the form of apple butter, apple sauce or apple jelly. Apples in cold storage keep well; therefore, when the crop is abundant, the canning of apples is sometimes protracted until after January 1st, the cold storage apples being used. The "big seller" is the No. 10 size, packed with a half dozen or one dozen cans in a case. Apples should be packed from late fall or win'er fruit, and should be hand packed as well as hand picked, sani- tary cans preferably being used. They should be nicely peeled and carefully cored and cut into one-quarter or one-eighth pieces. The cans should be filled as full as possible before processing, and the fruit should, after being peeled and trimmed of all bruised spots, be dropped in cold salt water to protect it from discoloration. Processing 96 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. too long or too heavily softens the fruit too much and turns it red in the cans; and yet a too Hght process will permit the contents of the cans to spoil and the cans to swell and burst. Summer apples are poor for canning purposes and always turn soft and mushy in the can. Maryland, Missouri, Arkansas and Vir- ginia canners usually haven't the varieties which are best for canning. The best valreties are produced in New York, Michigan, Maine, Ohio, and Wisconsin. I have seen some good canned apples, however, from Pennsylvania and Missouri, Indiana and Kentucky. A can of No. 10 apples, to be well packed, should contain from 3>2 to 4 pounds of solid fruit after all water is drained out of the can. The color of the fruit should be bright if it has been carefully handled. Windfalls should not be used for canning as they are nearly always decayed at the core to a greater or less extent. It is impossible to han;lle apples without leaving an occasional bruised spot, and buyers should not be too critical in that respect; but apples for canning should be hand picked from the trees. Handling in transportation wil essen- tially bruise them some, however. CHAPTER XXXIL CANNED CLAMS. Canned clams are not of large sale and are used chiefly in soups and in chowders. The bivalve mollusk used for canning purposes is the salt water product. The fresh water clam or mussel is not used. The round clam, or Quahog, is packed in a very limited way, and 1= much higher priced than the long clam. This last is the kind that is almost universally used for canning purposes. Clams should be of a bright color when the can is opened. If the brine is dark and the clam dark, the goods have been packed too long and are not of good flavor, the phosphorus' has dissolved the tin on the inside of the can and discolored the contents. Clams are packed and sold like oysters, by the net weight of the contents after the can is cut. For illustration, there are No. 1 cans of clams which will cut out 8 ounces of clams, and No. 2 cans, which will cut out only the same weight. They are packed of No. 1 size (containing 6 ounces, 8 ounces and 10 ounces), while the No. 2 size is packed to contain 6 ounces, 8 ounces, 10 ounces, 12 ounces or 16 ounces. So the price varies according to the weight of the contents of the cans, and each shipment should be tested for the weight specified in HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 97 the contract. Clams (soft shell) are packed chiefly in Maine and in Massachusetts. Hard shell clams are packed almost solely on Long Island. CHAPTER XXXIII. CANNED OYSTERS. Oysters are extensively canned in the United States, in Great Britain and in France. The Chesapeake Bay for many years was the chief source of supply, and Baltimore became (and is yet) the great center of the oyster industry. Oysters are the most popular of all food shell fish. The oyster beds of The Chesapeake Bay have been dredged until the larger oysters have all been removed and until stringent legislation had to be enacted to prevent the extermination of the bivalve. In the South, however, at several points along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico in Florida, Mississippi and Louisiana, as well as in the waters of South Carolina, Georgia and Virginia, oysters have been found or planted and the beds cultivated until the yield has been so abundant and the quality so fine that the industry has almost been transferred to those localities. There has been more fraud and deception practised in the packing of cove oysters than in the packing of almost any other product. A law was passed once by the Maryland Legislature requiring that the net weight of oyster meat in the cans be stamped in the tin on the cap of the can. This law has become inoperative — very much* to the regret of those who believe in honest canned foods. Reputable packers, however, now try to adhere closely to the fol- lowing weights of oyster meat: No. 1 size 1^ ounces meat No. 1 size 3 ounces meat No. 1 size , 4 ounces meat No. 1 size 5 ounces meat No. 1 size , 6 ounces meat No. 2 size 3 ounces meat No. 3 size 6 ounces meat No. 3 size 8 ounces meat No. 2 size 10 ounces meat No. 2 size 13 ounces meat It is best to inspect purchases carefully and to see that the weights received are those bought. In order to test weights, cut the can, draw off the liquor, weigh in the original can, then pour the contents into a receptacle and weigh the empty can. This will test the weights and enable the purchaser to compare them with the invoice. The best weighing apparatus for canned foods, however, is an even balanced scale, — one platform for weights, the other for articles to be weighed, — with tested loose weights running up to ten pounds and having a side graduated beam that will weigh as little as an eighth 98 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. of an ounce. Such a scale is sufficient in capacity, convenient, and usually reliable. A set of pans, white enamel lined, of various sizes for sampling canned foods, is more desirable than dishes. Each pan should be care- fully vsreighed empty and its weight marked on the side with black iron enamel paint. Then it will not be essential to weigh the pans each time. A tin strainer with a wire mesh bottom, the meshes one-quarter inch in size, is the standard for draining and weighing tomatoes, oysters, apples and nearly all articles except peas. An effort should be made by all wholesale houses to induce retail grocers to buy and distribute choice qualities of cove oysters and well-filled cans containing an honest quantity of oyster meats. There is no other way to reinstate this formerly popular article in public esteem and to prevent cove oysters from being entirely driven from the market by competition with fresh oysters (which are now shipped and sold nearly everywhere). Selling and Buying Points. — See that the weight you contracted for is in the cans. Do not reject or condemn or approve by cutting one can. Cut several, and if the weight is fairly uniform and averages up to contract, it is a good delivery. The oyster meats should be of good size, bright in color, free from green color, and the liquor on the oysters should be only a little cloudy, not white and milky or viscid. A No. 2 can of Extra Selected or Fancy large oysters, containing about 10 or 12 ounces of oyster meats, is a good article for a jobber to have under private label so he can push the sale of it. A good trade can be built up — especially by a house that has mountain, mining, shipping, oi lumber trade — on such an article, and at a handsome profit. The quality will bring repeat orders. Some packers use what is called "shanghai" or extra tall cans ; but no advantage to the consumer is thereby given, in fact, the cost often is greater. ..The weights are no greater, the extra size of the can being merely deceptive. Canning of oysters is usually in progress from October 1st to April 1st, and, in most States, is regulated, as to date by law. Oysters were the pioneers of the canning industry in the United States, being about the first articles hermetically sealed in cans. Oysters are cultivated extensively by being planted in beds in favorable water and localities, and protected until of proper- size. They are gathered from deep water by dredging, from shallow water by tonging. The protection of their oyster beds by the laws of Maryland and Virginia, and the policing of the waters were just beginning to restore or renew the famous oyster beds of the Chesapeake Bay when HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 99 the 1914 Legislature of Maryland practically killed the law that had done so much good, and Maryland's advance has been checked. The following requirements as to cut out weights are now na- tionally in force : (Government Bulletin No. 19, of date October 11, 1913.) , Contents of Canned Oysters : For the m formation of oyster packers, we print the following let- ter, by permission of the Board of Food and Drugs Inspection of the Department of Agriculture : Mr. Frank E. Gorrell, National Canners' Association, ' Woodward Bldg., Washington, D. C. Dear Sir: An examination of samples from many of the packers of oysters put up during the season of 1913-13 shows that the weights of drained oyster meat "cut out" frequently fall below those agreed upon by the canners at the meeting of October 1, 1913, and accepted by the Board as satisfactory pending further investigation of the subject. This shortage, which amounts to 10 or 15 per cent, of the weights agreed upon, has been observed in cans of all sizes except the No. 1 tall and No. 2 tall, .which are used exclusively for packing select and extra select oysters. Cans are sometimes found which contain more than the agreed weight, but this is exceptional. It is believed that this shortage in weight is not intentional, but is due rather to the fact that insufficient allowance has been made for loss m weight of oysters through processing ; or, in cases where a gain in weight occurs, this gain has not been as great as was expected. By a somewhat closer attention to the question of loss or gain in pro- cessing, canners should have no difficulty in avoiding shortage in the packs prepared during the season of 1913-14. This notice is issued to inform the trade that, pending further investigation, the weights agreed upon by the canners at their meeting in Washington in October, 1913, will be regarded by the Board as satisfactory fulfilling the requirements of Food Inspection Decision No. 144. It is expected, however, that the "cut out" weight of all cans shall conform with this agreement, and where a variation occurs it shall be as often above as below the agreed weight. "The weights which have been agreed upon are given below : Size of Can.. ' Weight of drained Diameter. Height. Oysters "cut out." 2 11-16 inches 2 3-4 inches 3 ounces 2 11-16 inches 3 6-16 inches 4 ounces 211-36 inches 4 No. 1 5 ounces loo HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 3 3-S inches 3 15-16 inches 8 ounces 3 3-8 inches 4 9-16 No. 2 10 ounces (Signed) CARL L. ALSBURG, Chairman." Jt will be recalled that Food Inspection Decision No. 144, referred to in the above letter, states : "The can, in canned food products, serves not only as a container, but also as an index of the quantity of food therein. It should be as full of food as is practicable for packing and processing without injuring the quantity or appearance of the contents." Oyster packers will therefore take notice that in order to comply with the requirements of that decision, their cans should contain the weight of drained oysters as set forth in the foregoing letter, otherwise their product will be liable to seizure. CHAPTER XXXIV. CANNED BLACKBERRIES. This well known berry grows wild throughout the United States and in many other parts of the world. There are several varieties. One of these, sometimes called the dewberry, grows on a running or dwarf vine and has usually much larger fruit than the wild black- berry. Cultivated berries are much superior to wild berries. Wild berries grow to greatest perfection and size in the shade among or under tall trees. It is a justly popular and luscious berry, quite delicious and ex- ceedingly wholesome. In canning it retains its shape and color fairly well and keeps its flavor. The Baltimore Exchange standard for blackberries is as follows : '■'Cans to cut out not less than two-thirds full after draining; fruit to be sound ; put up in water." Canners claim that when the can is filled as full as possible with- out crushing the fruit, that it will shrink in processing and cut out not over two-thirds full when drained. It is a fine pie berry, though some object to the numerous seeds which these berries contain. It also makes a fine, rich-flavored preserve when canned in heavy syrup. Its largest distribution is in No. 10 cans to the bakery trade for pies, and in No. 2 and No. 3 tins in water for home-made pies. HOW TO BUY AND SELIv CANNED FOODS. loi Quite a quantity of the pack, however, is put up in No. 2 cans in rich heavy syrup. A fine jam or marmalade is also made from this berry. And fine cordial, made from the juice of the blackberry, is pre- scribed by physicians for use in indigestion. In droughty seasons blackberries "dry up" or shrivel on the vine. They should not then be canned as they lose flavor and become bitter. Selling and Buying Points. — It is best to handle this fruit in No. 2 cans in syrup, as color, flavor and value are best retained in this way. The fruit, when for pies, must, of course, be packed in water. The fruit should be ripe (black) and no red or green berries should appear in the cans. The berries should be soft and the fleshy seed coverings well rounded up and not shriveled or dried up by the sun's heat. No leaves, sticks or grit should be found in the cans. Dried blackberries have been used in the past for canning, but this is no longer done. CHAPTER XXXV. CANNED RASPBERRIES. This berry is very ancient in its derivation and its history is lost in antiquity. It grows wild all through American and European countries ; but as the cultivated raspberry is superior to the wild berry it is extensively cultivated. There are a great many varieties or kinds of raspberries, as the Red, the Black and the Yellow ; but the kinds that are best known and that are best for canning purposes are the Black, the Cuthbert Red, and the Columbia Red varieties. This berry retains its natural flavor better when canned than most any other fruit or berry. The black raspberry is best known and is most generally grown, holds its color and shape well, and retains its flavor almost perfectly when canned. It is packed in No. 2 cans in water and syrup, and in No. 10 cans in water only for preservers and for pie use. The Cuthbert Red Raspberry is a very delicate berry and is easily disintegrated by heavy cooking or processing. It has a very rich, delicious and penetrating flavor and is almost exclusively used by preservers for jams and marmalades, or for preserving in glass. It is easily deprived of its color by heavy processing or by contact with tin. It is therefore almost altogether packed in inside enameled, sani- tary cans — which seem to hold the color of the fruit. The Columbia Raspberry is a larger berry than either the Black or the Cuthbert. It is a red berry, but is a dark red and is not ift favor with preservers as it "cooks up" quite dark. 102 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. The standard of the Baltimore Canned Foods Exchange for canned raspberries is as follows : "Cans to cut out not less than two-third full after draining; fruit to be sound. Put up in not less than ten degrees cold, cane sugar syrup." Selling and Bu3nng Points. — The contents of the cans should be free from leaves, sticks and grit ; the berries of uniform color, and free from soft, unsound, green or underripe fruit. CHAPTER XXXVL CANNED HOMINY. Hominy is prepared from Maize or Indian corn, which grain is, according to the best authorities, indigenous to North America. Some historians have claimed that it originated in India, Turkey, Peru, etc. ; but no credible proof has been produced, and it is now held that maize, or corn as it is popularly called in the United States, is a native North American product. Corn is enormously produced and consumed in this country; but efforts to popularize the use of its products in European and Asiatic countries have, so far, met with poor success. Plominy is one of the most edible and popular forms into which corn is converted for human food, but canned hominy is a product of recent introduction. Hominy, as originally made by the early settlers of the United States, was produced from white corn, the hard or flint varieties being preferred. It was soaked in water and afterwards subjected to the action of a weak solution of wood ash lye. This had the effect of removing its outer hull or skin, leaving the white kernel for food. The hominy so made could then be dried, would keep sweet and good for a long time, and made a fine, nutritious and palatable food to be eaten with milk or cream, or butter, or sugar, or syrup, or even with salt' alone. It is an excellent and a very cheap food, and canners during the past fifteen years have been giving it considerable attention. Tt is still prepared by some canners by the old-fashioned lye pro- cess, but is also decorticated by machinery through a friction process, which takes the skin or outer integment from the grain. It is then thoroughly cooked in steam kettles, put into cans, processed, and put on the market. For some reason, not well known to canners, hominy is difficult to process properly, as it seems to be predisposed to turn black in the cans ; and many thousands of cases have been lost through experiment- OUTSIDE AND INSIDE WINDOW DISPLAY BRING GOOD BUSINESS INSPECTING SCENE IN MEAT DEPARTMENT OF LIBBY, McNeill & LIBBY MEAT CANNING HOW TO, BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 103 ing by inexporienced packers. In fact, there seems to be a chemical element in hominy that has an affinity for the coating of tin and under- lying iron sheets of a tin can, often causing the article to turn dark in a short while after it is packed. Some claim that this is caused by the use of the lye solution in the old method, but it is found to an extent even in pearl or decorti- cated hominy. Packers of canned foods now, however, believe that they have solved the problem by the use of inside enameled tin cans, the grain thereby being kept from contact with tin. The superior reliability of that style of can for hominy has been proven by practical use. I, however, have seen several lots of hominy in a few years past which had been packed in tin cans lacquered inside with an inferior lacquer, which were unfit for food, the grain having absorbed the lac- quer and absorbed its flavor. This article when canned properly is a most wholesome and pal- atable food, and as it can be produced very cheaply, it permits to the wholesale grocer a fair margin of profit. Buying and Selling Points. — Get a guarantee against turning black if in plain cans, and against absorbing the lacquer and turning black and becoming inedible' if in inside enameled cans. Do not object to sufficient water in the cans to lightly cover the contents. It is essential to the transmission of sterilizing heat through- out the grain, otherwise the contents would not keep. See that the grain is fully stripped of the outside hull and that the black eyes at the germinating end of the grain are removed by the decorticating process. Canned hominy should be dead white in color, not yellow, and should, therefore, be made of the best white flint corn. Hominy is packed in No. 2, No. 2}^, No. 3 and No. 10 cans, largely in Indiana, Illinois, Ohio and Iowa, and to a less extent in other states. It affords a good opportunity for the use of private or house labels profitably. CHAPTER XXXVII. CANNED KRAUT. Packed usually in No. 3 and No. 10 size cans, this article of food is of ancient use and manufacture, but only in recent years has it been hermetically sealed in cans. The undertaking has proven pop- ular, however, and the production and sale of canned kraut is now a very important branch of the industry. The kraut which is hermetically sealed in cans is identical as to cure and quality with the kraut which is sold in casks, being cured by the same process in large vats or tanks. 104 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. This description is applicable, of course, only to kraut properly cxjt and cured by the best processes and by people of experience. Some kraut is merely chopped cabbage, neither properly cut or properly cured, and that kind is sometimes canned. The standard of quality has, however, been so improved and advanced in a few years past that the kraut maker who merely chops up a lot of cabbage leaves, cores and all, salts it down and puts it on the market, finds that here is no sale for his stuff except for fertilizing. Long cut or shredded kraut is the only style now used by the best manufacturers. These obtain imported machinery for making it; and many of them have brought over trained kraut makers from Magdeburg, Munich and from other famous kraut producing locali- 'ties to manage their factories. Kraut can be packed to best advantage in sanitary cans, and isome canneries are even using the enameled inside sanitary cans. This article is one of the most honestly packed products in the canned food line, and the contents of the can are pressed in solidly and firmly, with but very little water. It was formerly packed with pork or sausage in the can, but seldom so packed now. Buying and Selling Points. — See that the cans are solidly packed, so much so that when the contents are poured out of the can they will stand alone in a solid mass. The cut of the cabbage should be long or shredded, the color a light rich yellow. Kraut usually keeps reliably in cans, as it undergoes a heavy preliminary cooking before it goes into the cans, and is then heavily processed afterward. Good, well cured kraut has a rich, lively odor when the can is opened, caused by the fermentation process. If it does not smell it has not been properly icured. The inconvenience, trouble, annoyance, slop, smell and spoilage in handling kraut in casks is all avoided in selling canned kraut; in addition in this way the dirt, filth and unsanitary and unwholesome conditions under which bulk kraut is retailed are all avoided. CHAPTER XXXVIII. CANNED PUMPKIN AND SQUASH. Canned Pumpkin. — This article is packed usually in No. 3 or in No. 10 cans, and is of fine merit. The pumpkins are cleaned, thor- oughly cooked, and then the meat is reduced to pulp by a machine used for that purpose. It is next carefully screened and strained in order to take out all hull or other useless parts, put in cans, and ^hermetically sealed. A centrifugal machine or cyclone is used by HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 105 some canners to separate the soft pulp of the pumpkin from the fibrous parts. It was formerly the case that pumpkin had an admixture of corn starch to make it appear firm or solid in the can and of a light color; but that article is no longer used for a filler (neither is any other adulterant), as there is scarcely anything which could be used that costs as little as pumpkin. Pumpkin which is firm, and which can be sliced with a knife when turned out of the can upon a dish, is either compressed by machinery or stiffened with corn starch. The pumpkin belongs to the gourd family of vegetables, as does the squash, and both have been used as food for men and animals since history began, since both are grown in all parts of the world. They are wholesome and nutritious and deserving of a much wider use than they have so far attained. Buying and Selling Points. — Pumpkin in cans should be of a deep golden color, somewhat darker than the natural yellow color of the flesh of the pumpkin, as cooking darkens the color slightly. It should be of a moist consistency, but not too moist, just so it can be stirred with a spoon in the can and that it will heap up mod- erately when poured in a dish. It should be free of black streaks or discoloration and of specks, and should be so pulped that its con- sistency is smooth and of fine texture and not lumpy or shredded. It should be of natural flavor. Canned Squash. — Two varieties of squash are used for canning purposes in the United States — the Boston Marrow Squash and the Hubbard Squash. Both kinds have their friends, and some buyers advocate the superiority of each kind. It is packed like pumpkin, in No. 3 and No. 10' cans, and in about the same way. Squash as a vegetable is found throughout the world, and, like pumpkin, belongs to the gourd family. It is generally pulped and put in the can, but it is sometimes cut up into squares and packed in that way in cans to be baked and eaten with butter. There is no way to tell the dififerent kinds of squash apart in the can except by a slight difference in flavor which cannot be described. Buying and Selling Points are practically the same as those of pumpkin. CHAPTER XXXIX. CANNED PORK AND BEANS AND RED KIDNEY BEANS. Pork and beans were labeled Baked Beans until the National Pure Food Law went into effect. It was then decided that beans cooked by steam in cans could not properly be labeled "Baked," so they now are designated Pork and Beans. When beans are packed io6 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. without pork, they are labeled "without pork;" when they are packed with tomato sauce, they are so labeled; and when without tomato sauce, they are merely marked "Plain." There are many kinds of beans, all of great antiquity. As a food product for men and animals they are well known in most parts of the world. Canned "Pork and Beans" have been popularized in the United States in about fifteen years past by extensive advertising. There are three or four factories which contend for the trade in that way, and have built up a great sale for their brands. One manufacturer is reputed to sell more than a million cases per annum. There are hundreds of smaller canneries, and nearly every wholesale grocer in the United States pushes his own private or house brand of "Pork and Beans." Pork and Beans, so popular in the United States, are made from Michigan or New York white or pea beans, cooked with a piece of pork, and are largely sold in tomato sauce. They are packed in Nos. 1, 2, 3 or 10 cans, and in about three grades — Standard, Extra Standard and Fancy. The standard grade is made from third grade beans, and some pebbles or small gravel will occasionally be found in the can, as well as some discolored or imperfect beans. The Extra Standard grade is made from second or "Samico" Michigan white beans, free from gravel or pebbles, but not entirely free from imperfect beans, though the rain damaged or stained beans used in this grade do not show after the beans are cooked. The Fancy Grade is made from, choice, hand-picked, white pea beans. The beans are picked over a second time before they are cooked by canners, making the grade as near perfect as possible. The grade of tomato sauce or catsup used upon Extra Standard and Fancy is the same, being pure tomato sauce, made from whole red ripe toma- toes. The sauce on the Standard grade is of a poorer quality usually, frequently made from tomato peelings at canning factories.. This, however, is now being stopped. The Pure Food Inspectors of the National Department of Agriculture are very vigilant in relation to tomato catsup and tomato sauce of late, and buyers should be careful to know that their purchases of Pork and Beans, in tomato sauce especially, are made by responsible and dependable canners who use a tomato sauce which is guaranteed to comply with the bacteriological test required by the United States. This article is steadily salable and gives to wholesale grocers good profits and permanent patronage when pushed under their own labels. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 107 Buying and Selling Points. — Pork and Beans should show no moisture or water in the can. They are subjected to a preliminary cooking and the moisture is all absorbed by the beans. Each can, unless it is marked "Without Pork," should have a small piece of boiled pork therein. The beans should be tender — each bean in the can should be so. Undercooked or raw beans can be detected by their being hard and tough and of a poor flavor. Such beans will cause those who sell them a loss of money and customers. The tomato sauce used on Pork and Beans should be made from the whole ripe tomatoes and carefully tested to comply with the National Pure Food Law as to bacteria. The beans should be of a very light brown color, and the tomato sauce should be well distributed through the beans and not collected ' at one end of the can in thick pulp. Our description of the grades in which beans are packed will show buyers what to expect in each grade as to imperfections. This is a cheap and nutritious food, splendidly wholesome, and growing rapidly in public appreciation. The contents of cans being very solid and the beans packed almost dry, the preliminary cooking should be carefully done. Beans are hard to sterilize by processing and the center of the can is hard to reach, as there is no water in the cans and therefore no conducting medium for the heat. The designation "Baked Beans" has been abandoned, as it is usually misleading. Red Kidney Beans. — These beans are quite popular and salable in cans. They are packed in No. 1, No. 2 or in No. 10 size. There are two kinds, the Red Kidney and the Improved Red Kidney. The latter is darker and glossier in the can than the first named, but many like the old style or kind best. These beans are packed plain usually, but sometimes with pork and with tomato sauce. Buying and Selling Pdints are practically the same as of Pork and Beans. CHAPTER XL. CANNED BEETS. One of the most difficult articles to preserve satisfactorily, and yet one of the most meritorious and desirable of canned foods, is treated of in this chapter. Canned beets are growing rapidly in common use, despite the difficulty packers experience in having them hold their natural color. The action of the acid in beets on the tin forms a chemical ele- ment which causes the beets to turn yellow and pale, thereby depriv- ing them of that beautiful red color which the fresh beets possess. This chemical change does not sour the beets nor have any very io8 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. perceptible eifect upon their flavor,- but it does render them unmer- chantable and unsalable. Some packers claim to have overcome this trouble by crushing the larger beets and using the red liquor extracted from them instead of water to fill the cans, but their efforts have proven futile. Sometimes a lot of beets, canned, processed and hermetically- sealed at the same time (and grown in the same soil), will prove irregular, some holding their color, others turning yellow or white. This variation does not occur, however, in the same can. It has been claimed that beets grown on fertilized ground replete with nitrogenous matter will not hold their color when canned. It has been found recently that inside lacquered or enameled cans will positively preserve the red color. This goes to confirm the theory that the fading is caused by the action of acid on the tin, as the tin is protected in inside enameled cans from the acid, and the beets hold color. Beets are packed in Nos. 2 and 3 or in No. 10 cans. The smaller beets, after being carefully cooked, peeled and washed, are graded or assorted as to size, and are packed into the cans whole — the smaller sizes being regarded as the most desirable. The larger beets are cut into quarters or smaller pieces, are packed into cans and labeled "Cut Beets," and are then sold at a low price. Beets are usually graded into four sizes by being passed over a table with holes of the various sizes thereon. New York, Maryland, Missouri, Min- nesota and Ohio produce nearly all the canned beets used. Buying and Selling Points. — Only beets packed in inside enameled cans should be used. When packed in other cans the danger of fading is too great. The size in various grades should be uniform and the price graduated accordingly. Beets should be carefully washed free of all earth and imper- fections before canning them, and no roots, leaves or stems should be found in the cans. If a lot of canned beets is faded or has turned light in the can, reject the goods. They cannot be sold and are un- merchantable. Cut beets at low prices are more salable than the seelcted small beets at fancy prices. A stock of beets should not be carried over from one year to another, as age seems to fade them — especially when packed in the plain inside cans. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 109 CHAPTER XLI. CANNED SPINACH. This article has largely increased in use in five years past, attrib- utable to the fact that nearly all packers having been striving to excel others as to the quality of their output. All have been giving splendid values, thereby popularizing the article. It has for hundreds of years been a well-known "pot herb," but canning of it is of but recent date in this country, though the French have canned it for many years. The Baltimore Standard of Canned Spinach is: "Cans to cut out reasonably full, gross weight of No. 3 cans, 39 oz." Baltimore canners excel in this article and their product stands as high in the esteem of the trade as either New York or New Jersey packs, which are usually held at higher prices. Buying and Selling Points. — Spinach (or Spinage) grows low to the ground, and the rains and winds are apt to load its leaves, which are somewhat rough and fibrous, with sand or grit. This should be washed away from the leaves most thoroughly, and in most factories the leaves pass almost constantly, while in prepara- tion, under jets of water and are turned and washed repeatedly. Turn the contents of the can out into a dish or pan, then feel the bottom of the receptacle with the tips of the fingers for sand or grit deposited by the water on the bottom. If grit or sand is found to any extent, the goods should be re- fused. It is a most disagreeable experience to a consumer to find a mouthful of sand cooked with his greens. The thick, coarse stems of the plant should not appear, and will not unless the spinach is too old and large. See that all dead and yellow leaves have been taken out carefully. A weight stipulation that is sometimes used is that spinach shall be packed 24 ounces of blanched spinach to a No. 3 can and 72 ounces of blanched spinach to a No. 10 can. This is about all that can be put in a can if it be processed safely. It is hard to judge whether this weight has been put in, however, except by the fill of the can, since weighing it cut out must necessarily include a lot of water which will not drain off quickly. no HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER XLIL CANNED SWEET POTATOES. This article is packed almost exclusively in No. 3 and No. 3)^ cans. It has been put on the canned food list during recent years. Sweet potatoes are packed dry and as near whole as possible. They are parboiled or cooked and then peeled or skinned while hot. They are next placed in the can, pressed in, capped, sealed and processed. Small potatoes that will go into the cap of the can are preferable ; but of late sanitary cans have been used in preference to cap cans and larger potatoes used. Owing to the heavy preliminary cook sweet potatoes are not difficult to process reliably. The chief points of care in packing are to select sound potatoes, free from bruises or frost bite, and to prevent the potatoes from becoming water-soaked. They should not be impaled upon a fork when they are being peeled for packing in the cans, as these per- forated potatoes seem to soak up moisture quickly and become watery. The white or yam sweet potatoes of the South are not suitable for canning purposes, and the yellow or Jersey sweet variety is almost exclusively used. Sweet potatoes originated in South America, and are very pop- ular all through North and South American countries as a food product. Buying and Selling Points. — See that sweet potatoes are packed dry, that is to say, that very little moisture appears in the can, and that the potatoes are not water-soaked, though they should be well cooked and soft. They should be packed as nearly whole as possible, in the can and of a uniform color. This later stipulation belongs, however, only to the fancy grade ; packers are not so careful with the standard grade. The potato should be perfectly and carefully peeled, all discolored or black spots being removed. These spots are caused by blight, bruises in handling, or by frost or freezing. CHAPTER XLIII. STRAWBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES AND GOOSEBERRIES. Strawberries have been known and grown for centuries and are probably the most delicious and popular of all berries, owing to their fragrance, flavor and abundance in season. These berries are now to be had fresh at all times of the year, transportation and refrigeration having brought the gardens of the South to the thresholds of the North. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. m The canning of strawberries is difficult, as they will not with- stand processing or "stand up" in the cans, and it is hard to put enough ■berries in a can to have them cut out a fairly acceptable quantity. Some varieties stand processing better than others, but there are so many varieties and so many claims of superiority that it is im- possible to enumerate them. The preservation of the color of the berries in canning, a most important feature, has been greatly simplied in a few years past by the use of inside enameled sanitary cans, which cans unquestionably do preserve that rich red color so essential to the acceptability of the canned product. The heavier the syrup the better the strawberries will retain their color and flavor; and preserved goods, a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, though expensive, are the best value. Buying and Selling Points. — Strawberries packed in water are of but little value, as they shrink and fade until they are wholly unde- sirable for any purpose. Packers do themselves a great injustice and the canning industry a great injury when they put a small handful of strawberries in a No. 2 can and then fill the can with water, giving the consumer nothing for his money except an impression that all canned foods are a fraud and a swindle. Even the packing of strawberries in No. 10 cans, in water, for preserving purposes, is a poor method of handling them. See that the berries have been washed carefully and are free of sand ; also that leaves and stems are absent from the cans. The Baltimore standard for strawberries is : "Cans to cut out after draining not less than half full of fruit. This shall be sound and not of the variety known as seedlings, and must be put up in not less than 10 degrees cold cane sugar syrup." Gooseberries. — This is a pie fruit, being naturally so sour and tart that it can not generally be used otherwise. It makes a fine jelly and, when put up in glass "Wiesbaden" style, makes a handsome preserve. It is a very hardy berry and grows upon a shrub or bush yielding abundantly. Ripe gooseberries turn quite dark, but are seldom used, the fruit always being packed green. As a pie fruit it requires a great deal of sugar but has a delicious flavor. Canners do not give much attention to gooseberries, but quite a quantity are nevertheless packed. They are heavy with seeds and are hard to process so that they will keep in cans more than one season. The large quantity of acid in the berry renders this still more difficult. They are packed usually "Stemmed and Blowed," this being done by a machine, but some still pack them with stems and blooms on the fruit. 112 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Buying and Selling Points. — The Baltimore standard is : "Cans to cut out not less than two-thirds full after draining. Fruit unripe and uncapped put up in water." See that all loose stems, sticks and leaves are absent from the cans. Bakers usually require these berries to be put up in No. 10 cans. Blueberries. — These berries are almost exclusively used for pies, though some are packed in syrup in No. 2 cans and are delicious for tea table dessert. They are not, as some think, cultivated huckle- berries, but are separate and distinct, fleshier and sweeter than huckle- berries and are chiefly grown in high latitudes and are packed in Maine, Canada and Michigan, chiefly in No. 10 cans in water for pie fruit. It makes a most delicious pie, though the dark color of the berry is rather unsightly when used in pies. Buying and Selling Points. — This berry when in cans is apt to swell if carried over from one season to another. The seeds seem to be hard to sterilize. See that cans are well filled with fruit, two- thirds to three-fourths full after draining, and that there is an ab- sence of sticks, stems, leaves, etc. The berries should be ripe and of a good, meaty plumpness. CHAPTER XLIV. CANNED CHERRIES. This fine fruit is found in a wild state in many parts of the world, and has been grafted, improved and cultivated until it is now one of the most luscious and desirable of small fruits. The finest cherries produced in the world are grown in California, and the Royal Ann, Black Tartarian and Ox Heart varieties are well known upon the fruit stands as vv^ell as in cans. The Royal Ann cherry of California is a white cherry with a red cheek. The red turns brown when the fruit is canned. The Ox Heart cherry of California is not so meaty or richly flavored as the Royal Ann, but it has a distinctive or "pit flavor" of its own, which is greatly relished by some. The Black Tartarian is really the finest flavored of all, but its color is not so refined or attractive as that of the white varieties, and it is, therefore, much less salable in cans. But when sold fresh in boxes it far surpasses in sales the white varieties. The Baltimore Canned Foods Exchange has a standard for red cherries as follows : "Cans full of fruit, free of specks or decay, put up in water." The same standard applies to white cherries except that they are to be packed in 10 degrees cold cane syrup. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 113 Red or Sour Cherries, as they are called, have recently attained an enormous consumption as pie stuff. They are put in No. 10 cans, pitted by machinery, and are largely distributed, so that the world has cherry pie all the year around. These cans of pitted red sour cherries are put up in the juice of the fruit. Inside enameled sanitary cans are generally used, as they are found to preserve the color of the fruit. The value of these No. 10 cans of pitted pie cherries is largely based upon color, fullness of cans and freedom from pits, as all are sometimes not perfectly pitted. Red and white cherries in the East are packed in No. 2 cans in water, and in various degrees of syrup,, both pitted and unpitted. When packed with the pits in cherries are very apt to swell or spring at the approach of warm weather. Pitted goods are less liable to that trouble. CHAPTER XLV. CANNED PLUMS. The plum tree is as old as the history of the world, and some varieties are to be found in nearly all known countries. It is a hardy tree and grows in most any kind of soil, when well watered, and is not very susceptible to frost. The varieties have probably all been developed from one source, and their number is legion. The best known kinds and those that are now most extensively cultivated are the following: Green Gages, Egg Plums, Damson Plums, Prune Plums, Gold Drop Plums, Lom- bard Plums, Red Plums, etc. Plums seem to be grown to their greatest perfection in California, Washington and Oregon, beyond the Sierra Madre and Cascade mountain ranges. Prunes are merely dried plums. The plum when raised from the seed is apt to degenerate or to return to its original wild state, consequently it is chiefly repro- duced from cuttings. Plums are usually canned with the pit, and therefore apt to swell the cans, and it is risky to carry over from season to season. This fruit makes a fine dessert or good pies, and some varieties, especially damsons, are largely used for preserving purposes. Plums are packed in No. 2, 2J4, 3 or 10 cans. Being a very prolific producer, this fruit is put into cans at a very low cost and sold,, merit considered, at a very low price. Some of the green gage and egg plums of California grow to as large size as hen eggs and are of superb flavor and merit. 114 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Pitted plums in cans do not seem to be salable. New York State and Michigan cultivate plums extensively and put large quantities of them into cans. Some canneries separate plums into four sizes before canning by running them over screens. CHAPTER XLVI. CANNED MEATS. Canned meats are prepared now on a very extensive scale, and the processes of this preparation have been gradually perfected until they are generally canned with strict regard to cleanliness, sanitation, purity, net weight and merit, as much so as any canned product known. They are usually prepared in or in connection with the great fresh-meat packing houses and are packed in a large variety of styles and in numerous sizes of cans. Meat canners are exceedingly progressive in their methods. They usually lacquer all their cans, label in a neat and generally attractive style, and prepare their goods for sale in tempting form. They are thus in advance of any other class of canned food packers. The buying points for canned meats involve tests of weight, soundness, flavor and freedom from mis- branding or labeling wrongly. A friend of mine (Edward G. McDougall, of Chicago), who is connected with one of the largest canned meat establishments known, has written of them as follows : "While the canning of meats for commercial purposes was estab- lished nearly a century ago, during the last twenty-five years it has grown to such an extent that today cooked corned beef, sliced dried beef, veal loaf, chille con-carne, potted and deviled meats, vienna sau- sage, etc., etc., are considered a necessary part of a retail grocer's stock, and these foods can be found in most of the homes throughout this country. All meats are canned under Government inspection. The utmost cleanliness is used in their preparation and canning, and their purity is assured. Preservatives are entirely unnecessary, as canned meats are preserved by heat alone and their wholesomeness is unquestioned. They are being used more and more in the homes of our people; and the great armies and navies of the world, when they begin active operations, are always provisioned with canned meats. Many people have an idea that these products are expensive ; but they will not think so when they stop to consider that a ham, which they purchase in the ordinary manner from the retail butcher, weigh- ing (we will say for example) eightfeen to twenty pounds, when taken home and cooked and the skin, bone and non-edible fat removed, will shrink to nine or ten pounds, a shrinkage of 50 per cent, and that to HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 115 this must be added the cost of fuel, the time spent in and the incon- venience of doing the cooking. What is true of ham is applicable to all sorts of meats. There is a very heavy shrinkage in cooking, whereas in ready-to-eat meat products, the house-wife gets just what she pays for, properly prepared by an expert chef under ideal sanitary conditions, without the trouble and expense of cooking. Canned meats will keep for a lifetime and are ready to serve at a moment's notice. Variety of menu is one of the greatest attractions of every well managed household. Here again is where canned meats are a great aid, for the possibilities are almost without limit if the pantry is sup- plied with boneless chicken, deviled ham, ox tongue, corned beef hash, sliced bacon, Mexican tamales, tripe, sliced dried beef, chop suey, sausages, sausage meat, corned beef, chile-con-carne, or any other of these convenient, nutritious and appetizing table delicacies." CHAPTER XLVII. CANNED MILK. One of the most important and most commendable branches of the canning industry is that of condensed milk. This branch of the industry brings great pleasure and luxury to those who go down to the sea in ships; to the armies of the world; to the pioneers of the earth, and to all those who travel, explore or follow their occupation upon the confines of civilization. If the babies of the world were to vote upon the popularity of the various canned products, condensed milk would be unanimously chosen. Millions of the motherless little ones, and those needing more than a mother's milk, have been nurtured by condensed milk. The industry is most thoroughly placed under and controlled by Government and State inspection, and the product is prepared with the utmost scientific care and with scrupulous regard to wholesome- ness and to sterilization. Milk canneries are usually located in the country in dairying dis- tricts, and the dairies, as well as the canneries, are carefully inspected. Milk is packed in cans containing 6, 13 or 16 oz. of contents — usually in cases of 3 doz., 4 doz., or 6 doz. cans, according to size of cans. The process of condensation or manufacture is quite compli- cated, and was first undertaken as a useful and commercial enterprise by Gail Borden, of West Plains, New York, in 1849. He began the manufacture of "Plain Condensed Milk" at that time, but in 1851 he introduced "Preserved Condensed Milk," or milk mixed with a heavy ii6 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. percentage of sugar. In 1861 and all during the war between the States he furnished this product to the great armies of the North. He thus became a man of wealth, as the demand for this product grew steadily. In 1865 the canning of milk was introduced into Switzerland, and since then into many or most of the countries of the world. Condensed milk can be used for many of the purposes (though not all) for which fresh milk or cream can be used. In the past decade milk that is evaporated, or thinly condensed, has, to an important extent, superceded preserved milk in popular use. Evaporated milk is prepared entirely without sugar and is absolutely sterile, thereby being superior in that respect to preserved milk. Buying Points and Selling Points for condensed or preserved milk are freedom from what is called "rough milk" — meaning milk which becomes lumpy or granulated in processing; good, bright color, and the flavor as near that of natural milk as possible, CHAPTER XLVIII. CANNED OKRA. This vegetable is an old-world plant and its history extends into remote ages. It has for many years been cultivated in the United States, but grows best in Southern latitudes, being to a certain ex- tent tropical in its nature. It is a plant that produces a capsule or seed case, and this is the part of the plant which is eaten. The capsule grows from four to ten inches in length and is eaten green, being prepared by boiling and mingling with a butter sauce like aspar- agus, or being pickled. It is canned in Louisiana and Mississippi and, to a limited extent, in Baltimore. Its most extensive use is as a base for Gumbo soup (the plant is also called Gumbo). It makes a very fine, rich soup, which, on account of the mucilaginous nature of okra, is very thick. The most desirable kind of okra is known as the dwarf okra, packed in Louisiana. It has a small pod or capsule that seems to retain its green color when canned as well as to have a certain de- sirable flavor. Buj^ng and Selling Points. — The pods should be cut or sliced into pieces about half an inch in length and should be of fresh, green color. If the vegetable is too mature when canned it is not so suc- culent and is apt to turn red from the processing. The article is of limited sale, not being well known to the consuming public. It should be bought in small quantities until a trade is established for it. In many parts of the Southern United States it is quite popular, but it is not well known in other sections of this country. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 117 CHAPTER XLIX. CANNED SHRIMP. Shrimp are sometimes called saltwater crayfish, but not properly so, as there is another species of the same genus of saltwater crus- taceans known as crayfish, which grow much larger than shrimp. Shrimp are denizens of deep saltwater except twice a year. Spring and Fall, when they come to shallow water near the shores. The canning of shrimps in the United States is confined almost entirely to the Gulf of Mexico, as the fish is not either large or abundant else- where. Putting up shrimps in this way was begun in 1867 by G. W. Dunbar, of New Orleans. His first efforts were unsatisfactory, as the shrimps contained so much phosphorus that the meat would turn black when in contact with the tin. In 1875 Mr. Dunbar devised the plan of placing the shrimps in a small cloth bag and then canning them, the bag protecting the meat from contact with the tin. Afterward the cans were lined with thin sheets of wood veneer, and later with oiled paper. All of these meth- ods have their advantages and all are good. Shrimps are caught with long seines — sometimes one thousand feet or more in length. When a school is located in water near the shore the seine (which is ten feet deep and has a three-quarter inch mesh) is drawn around the school and pulled in to the shore until the fish can be dipped up. When caught shrimps are of a greyish-white color. They are quite delicate and quickly spoil, so they are carefully iced in barrels, taken to the cannery and peeled. The body, with the exception of the meat of the tail, is thrown away as useless. When the meat is peeled out of the shell and thor- oughly washed it is boiled in salt water. This causes it to turn red or pink. It is then packed in No. 1 cans, containing ij^ ounces of meat, or in No IJ^ cans, containing nine ounces of meat. It is then pro- cessed in the usual way. It is unsafe to pack a greater weight into cans, as the shrimps are apt to solidify, or cake into a solid mass. Nearly all the consumption now is of wet packed shrimps, pro- cessed with a pickle or with brine in the can. The dry packed always exude an odor and are never so fresh and sweet of flavor as the wet packed. The catch or run of shrimp is very uncertain and is largely in- fluenced by the weather — a most unreliable factor on the Gulf Coast. Heavy storms or rough weather seem to deter the shrimp from ap- proaching the shores and to keep them in deep water. On that ac- ii8 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. count canneries are frequently compelled to close without packing a shrimp, and values are apt to fluctuate sharply with the state of the supply. Shrimps are pleasing to the taste and delicate of flavor, and for salads and stews are preferred by many persons to lobster. Buying and Selling Points. — See that the meat is free from dis- coloration. The lining of the can may be discolored next to the tin, but if the meat is not discolored it is acceptable. The shrimps should be carefully peeled, no shell being left on them, and the viscera should be entirely removed. The very large shrimps are apt to be tough and dry, and on that account the medium-sized ones are more desirable. In dry shrimps in cans the odor cannot be avoided. It is some- times quite strong when the can is first opened, but it soon evaporates and the meat will be found sweet and good. On this account, how- ever, wet packed shrimps are preferable, as the brine facilitates the sterilization and removes all odor. CHAPTER L. CANNED RHUBARB. Rhubarb is a plant of which the stalks are used in a similar man- ner to those of asparagus ; but, on account of its strong acidity, rhu- barb is used for pies and sauces, in lieu of fruit, rather than as a vege- table. It is a very early spring plant, and, coming just after a long win- ter, constitutes a very agreeable change of diet. It is, therefore, popular until superseded or displaced by berries or other fruits. It is canned in a somcAvhat limited way (though it should not be), as it is an unsafe product for canning. The acid of this article is so powerful that it soon dissolves the tin coating on the cans, in fact, canned rhubarb which is more than six months old is unfit for human consumption and is dangerous. On this account the canning of rhubarb is gradually declining, and will soon be entirely discontinued. The writer of this article has had several very startling and disagreeable ex- periences with canned rhubarb. Buying and Selling Points. — See that the cans are well filled with rhubarb cut into pieces about an inch in length and that they are sold quickly. Rhubarb should be bought by the wholesaler and by the re- tailer with the understanding that it is to be used promptly. After it has been six months in the can it should be carted to the dump and de- stroyed. Inside enameled cans are of no benefit in canning this article, as its acid will absorb the enamel. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 119 CHAPTER LL CANNED CRABS. In this country crabs are canned almost wholly on Chesapeake Bay. James McMenamin was the founder of the industry in 1878 or 1879 at Norfolk, Va., afterward removing his cannery to Hampton, Va. The ocean is full of crabs and the supply unlimited, the season being from April until October. There are two styles of canned crabs. One is the shredded crab meat and the other is known as "Deviled Crabs," but the process in preparing the meat is the same. Crab meat is difficult to keep from discoloration, but not so much. so as shrimps or lobsters. It is not a very popular article in cans, and the sale is rather limited, though it should be more appreciated, as it is. of great merit. There is a sweetish and a phosphorescent flavor about canned crab meat that some people dislike, and which does not seem to be present when fresh crabs are eaten. The ordinary blue crab of all the oceans is the kind used for canning in this country. The meat is extracted from the shells either by a cyclone or cen- trifugal drum or by the use of compressed air. The latter blows the meat out of the shell. It was formerly picked out by hand. The meat should be of a grayish or bluish white color, and the cans well filled, but free from any appreciable quantity of brine, also free of shells and viscera. There is an article called "Japanese Crab Meat" which is now ex- tensively imported into this country. It is packed in Japan in No. i flat and No. ^ fiat cans. It is very white and has a flavor very closely resembling that of lobster, but the meat is tougher. It is used largely in restaurants and hotels as a sub- stitute for lobster, and when carefully prepared none but an expert can distinguish the two. The Japanese crab is prepared from what is known as the spider crab, which grows to quite a large size in the Pacific Ocean, weighing sometimes as much as twenty pounds. It is an ugly crustacean, and looks more like a typical devil of the deep than any other denizen of the. water except an octopus. , It is a clean feeder, however, and its meat is sweet and fine flavored.. The Japanese crab meat industry has grown to enormous proportions in the past decade. The meat should be white, clean and free from shell.. Cooking turns exposed portions of the meat a bright pink, as in the case' of shrimps, but the inside portions remain white. It is not shredded like crab meat packed in this country, but is packed in solid pieces in the can. Some attempts to pack crab meat on the Pacific Coast have been quite successful in producing a good food made from blue crabs, but so far the production has been very small. I20 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER LIL CANNED GRAPES. This most ancient and honorable fruit is probably oftener spoken of in literature than any other — more, however, in respect to its use in the •manufacture of wine than as an article for canning purposes. Grapes are wholesome and pleasing to the taste, and whether dried as raisins or canned, or made into wine or jelly, juice or vinegar, the fruit prob- ably is in more general use than any other. The canned grape never has attained the popularity which it de- serves, because it seems to retain its flavor almost in perfection when canned (if in light syrup). In the East the common Concord or black grape is canned to a very limited extent. Here, also, some white grapes are canned. In California the white or Muscatel grape is used for canning, and ^t first was exceedingly popular and salable. But the debauching of the -quality of canned grapes by some packers who cared more for the im- mediate present than for the future, and a tendency of the fruit to swell the cans when lightly processed, bringing trouble and loss to all con- cerned in handling them, caused a heavy decrease in the demand for canned grapes, so that wholesale grocers have almost quit including them in their assortments when contracting. This is a great pity, as canned Muscatel grapes are not only cheap, but exceedingly wholesome and an excellent dessert. In late years canners have begun to improve the quality. The cheaper classes of packers have about discontinued packing since they cannot sell them. They now grade the grapes for size — using only the larger sizes for canning and letting the smaller sizes be used for other purposes. This has brought back the demand to some extent, and it is now growing. Grapes are also being processed more carefully, so as to stop the germinating tendency in the seeds, as well as the liability to swell and spring the cans. , Bujang Points. — Grapes to be white (the dark varieties will not sell) ; to be packed in enough syrup to make them palatable, but not in such heavy syrup as to destroy the natural flavor ; to be free from stems and leaves ; not to be too generally split open in processing, and to be 3arge, of uniform size and free from brown discoloration or rust. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 121 CHAPTER LIII. CANNED SOUPS. The putting up of soups has become quite an important branch of the canning industry. The manufacture of soup is quite complicated. It requires not only scientific knowledge of the processes of preparation and of canning, but it also requires great skill and experience in cooking. Hence the most able and experienced chefs are employed by the soup canneries to prepare the many kinds of soups which are placed upon the market. Then to sell soups (which are canned the year round) and to keep the sale equal to the production, expensive methods of advertise- ing and sales managing are essential. Under the circumstances, not only experience, but a large capital, is required to conduct successfully the manufacture and sale of soups. The establishments engaged in these enterprises in the United States can, therefore, be numbered on the fingers of both hands. There are two kinds of soups manufactured and marketed in the United States — the liquid, ready to serve out of the can when warmed, and the condensed, which are to be mixed with other ingredients like milk, cream or water, before using. Many sorts of soups are canned, among them being the following: Bouillon, Beef, Celery, Ox Tail, Mock Turtle, Veal, Chicken, Gumbo or Okra, Consomme, Green Turtle, Clam Broth, Clam Chowder, Mutton Broth, Tomato, Tomato and Okra, Vegetable, Pea, Asparagus, Mulliga- tawney. Vermicelli, Julienne, Cray Fish, Crab, Lobster, Fish Chowder, etc., etc. Soups are prepared in canneries that are regularly inspected by the United States government inspectors as nearly all soups are based upon meat or meat juices, and all meats intended for interstate or foreign com- merce are prepared under government supervision. It follows that the meats used are of the very best quality (as are all materials used by the big soup canneries), and the canneries are as clean and neat as it is possible to make them by the use of water, steam and labor. The prices at which canned soups are retailed are less than they can be produced for at home, and the product is usually superior. Buying Points are very difficult to name. The palatability and relish of the soups on the table, the fill of the can, and, in condensed soups, the result of developing them according to direction, and the merit when developed are about the only general guides to judgment that can be rec- ommended. 122 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER LIV. CANNED FOOD STATISTICS. According to the United States census of 1909, the Canning Industry- was analyzed as follows. These figures are, of course, somewhat in- complete, but they are probably as accurate as can be obtained by the method used by the Census Bureau : Total number of cases of canned food products 62,700,000 Total number of canneries 3)76/ Total capital invested $119,207,000 Total paid for raw materials $101,823,000 Total value of finished product 157,101,000 Seasons for packing various products m the different States. state. Apples. Apricots. Asparagus. Baked Beans Arkansas Jul. 23 to Aug. 15 Sep. IT to Nov. 26 Sep. 1 to Oct. 31 Sep. 30 to Oct. 30 Sep. 20 to Oct. 10 Aug. 1 to Sep. 1 Aug. 10 to Nov. 15 Oct. 1 to Nov. 15 Oct. 1 to Oct. 28 Oct. 1 to Nov. 1 Aug. 1 to Nov. 1 Aug. 15 Sep. 18 to Oct. 17 Sept. 1 to Nov. 1 1 California June 1 to Aug. 10 Mar. 25 to July 1 May 1 to June 30 Connecticut .... Delaware ! Georgia Illinois May 20 to Jun. 20 Jan. to Dec. 1 (Jo Maryland Massacliusetts . . Michigan ....do do do Missouri Nebraska New Jersey May 13 to July i: Jan. to Dec. Oct. 15 to Dec. 25 Sep. 15 to Dec. 31 Oct. 1 to Nov. 20 Aug. 25 to Dec. 1 July 1 to Dec. 1 Oct. to Nov. July 25 to Dec. 1 Sep. 1 to Oct. 20 Aug. 1 to Aug. 15 Jul. 20 to Aug. 20 New York Ohio May 10 to July 15; Jan. to Dec. Pennsylvania . . . Tennessee Juiy'24'to'Oct.'i Apr. IS to May 10 Apr. 26 to Jun. 10 Utah Virginia Aug. 15 to Dec. 10 Julv 1 to Auer. 1 i HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 123 Season for packing various products in the different States — Continued. state. String beans Beets Blackberries. Cherries. Arkansas California Colorado Delaware Georgia Illinois Indiana Kansas Maryland Micbigan Minnesota . . . Nebraska . . . . New Jersey . . . New York .... OWo Oregon Pennsylvania Tennessee Utah Vermont Virginia Washington . Wisconsin . . . Aug. 1 to Sep. 15 j July 1 to Aug. 1 June 1 to Oct. 1| June 8 to July 27 i Jul. 10 to Aug. 20 1 Jun. 10 to Sep. 15 Jun. 10 to Jul. 15 July 1 to Oct. 1 June 20 to Oct. 22 J un. 15 to Jul. 25 Jul. 15 to Nov. 25 Jun. 15 to Not. 25 July 1 to Oct. 28 July 1 to Sep. 30 July 15 to Oct. 15 i July 10 to Oct. 15 1 Aug. 1 to Sep. 15 Jun. 15 to Jul. 10 June 30 to Oct. 1 Jul. 20 to Aug. 20 1 Jul. 20 to Aug. 30 1 jui.' 10 to Aug.' 25 ' '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. July 1 to Aug. 15 ; May 20 to Sep. lOi May 15 to Jul. 28 I June 15 to Aug. 1 July 1 to July 20 Junj 1 to Jun. 20 i .Tun. 15 to Jul. 15 juiy'4'to 'Juiy'26 Jun. 8 to ' jun'.'so Jul 15 to Aug. 24, Jun. 25 to Aug. 10 juiy'l !.Tuiy July 5 to ,Tuly 15 .Tune 9 to June 30 July 23 to Sep. li June 20 to Augv 1 July 1 to Aug. 10 Jun. 1 to Jun. 30 Jul. 15 to Oct. 15 Jun. 10 to Aug. 20 ■ Aug. 17 to Oct. 1 .Tun. 15 to July 5 May 25 to Jun. 25 ! July 1 to Aug. 15 Jul. 1 to Aug. 1 Jun. 1 to Jun. 30 Jun. 2S to Jul. 20 State. Corn. Currants. Gooseberries. Grapes. California Colorado Delaware Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Maine Maryland Massachusetts . . Michigan Minnesota Missouri Nebraska New Hampshire.. New Mexico New York Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania . . . Utah Vermont Virginia Wisconsin Jul. 15 to Sep. 15 Aug. 1 to Oct. 1 Aug. 1 to Oct. 15 Aug. 5 to Oct. 1 Jul. 24 to Sept. 15 Aug. 20 (0 Sep. 20 Aug. 1 to Oct. 20 Sep. 1 to Oct. 1 Aug. 1 to Oct. 1 Aug. 10 to Sep. 27 Aug. 1 to Oct. 1 Aug. 25 to Sep. 20 Jul. 26 to Oct. 17 Aug. 1 to Nov. 1 Aug. 15 to Oct. 15 Aug. 25 to Sep. 25 July 20 to Oct. 20 Aug. 10 to Oct. 10 Jun. 5 to Jun. 30 Jun. 15 to Aug. 30 July 1 to Aug. 1 ■Tuly 1 to Aug. 5 Jun. 1 to July 15 May 21 to June 1 May 15 to Jun. 30 Aug. 1 to Dec. 1 .fun. 26 to Jul. 30 Sep. 15 to Oct. 1 Sep! 15 to dct.'is June 20 to Aug. 1 Jun. 10 to Jun. 20 June 1 to July 10 Jun. 15 to July 30 June 1 to June 30 124 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Season for packing various products m the different States — Continued. state. Hominy. Lima Beans. Okra. Peaches. Alabama Arkansas California . . . Colorado Delaware .... Florida Georgia Illinois Indiana Louisiana . . . Maryland Michigan .... Missouri . Nebraska . . . . New Jersey . . New Mexico . . New Tork Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania Tennessee Texas Utah Virginia Washington . .Ian. to Dec. .Tan. to Dec. Jan. to Dec. Jan. to Dec. Jan. to Dec. ,T.an. to Dec. Aug. 1 to Sept. 1 Aug. 15 to Sep. 20 Aug. 1 to Sep. 30 July 29 to Oct. 15 Aug. 10 to Oct. 30 Aug. 15 to Sep. 15 Jul. 15 to Aug. 15 Aug. 1 to Oct. 1 Jun. 25 tO( Oct. 25 Aug. 15 to Sep. 15 June 1 to July 1 Jul. 25 to Aug. 15 jun.'20'to'Jui."25 Sep. 10 to Oct. 10 July 20 to Aug. 20 Aug. 10 to Aug 30 June 1 to Sep. 20 Sep. 11 to Nov. 1 Aug. 11 to Sep. 5 Sep. 10 to Oct. 10 Sep.'i'to Oct.'i Aug. 25 to Oct. 20 Aug. 10 to Aug.31 Aug. 10 to Oct. 10 Jul. 20 tfl( Aug. 20 .Tune 15 to Sep. 1 Sep. 6 to Oct. 6 Aug. 1 to Oct. 15 Jul. 15 to Sep. 30 State. Peas. Pears. Pineapples. Plums. May 20 to Jun. 20 July 1 to Oct. 27 Jun. 15 to Aug. 15 'Sep.30itoOet.2Q June 1 to June 30 Sep. 20 to Oct. 20 Florida May 15 to Sep. 1 Georgia Illinois June 1 to June 15 Jun. 14 to Jul. 14 May 26 to Jul. 15 Jun. 5 to Jun. 30 June 5 to July 1 Maryland Sep. 1 to Nov. 1 Oct. 1 to Nov. 1 Aug. 20 to Nov. 5 Jun. 2 to Jun. 10 June 15 to Aug. 1 June 6 to June 25 Jim. 15 to Aug." 31 Jun. 1 to Jul. 10 Jun. 1 to Jul. 20 New Jersey Oct. 10 to Nlov. 15 Sep. 15 to Oct. 15 Aug. 29 to Nov. 9 New Mexico New Tork Ohio .... May 14 to Jun. 25 Aug. 5 to Sep. 20 Aug. 25 to Oct. 10 July 25 to Oct. 25 July 15 to Aug. 30 Tennessee July 1 to Sep. 1 Jun. 10 to Jul 25 May 20 to Jun. 19 ji2n.'i5'toAug.28 Utah Virginia Aug. 26 to Sep. 18 Sep. 1 to Oct. 15 Aug. 1 to Oct. 15 Washington Wisconsin HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 125 Season for packing various products in the different States — Continued. state. Pumpkin. Quince. Raspberries. Rhubarb. Arkansas Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 Sept. 15 Oct. 1 to Dec. 31 Oct. 10 to Oct. 20 Aug. 10 to Nov. 20 Oct. 1 to Nov. 20 Oct. 1 to Nov. 24 Sep. 10 to Oct. 10 California Sep. 6 to Nov. 2 June 28 to Oct. 6 Colorado May IS to Jun. 30 Delaware Illinois Massachusetts .. MIttilgan Minnesota Oct. 1 July 3 to July 18 July 1 to July 15 Sep. 1 to Oct. 1 Oct. 1 to Dec. 25 Sep. 25 to Nov. 7 Sep. 15 to Nov. 15 Oct. 1 to Nov. 1 Sep. 1 to Nov. 1 Nov. 1 to Nov. 15 Sep., 10 to Nov. 13 Sep. 25 to Nov. 24 Aug. 15 to Dec. 1 Sep. 20 to Nov. 30 Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 July 1 to Aug. 1 June 1 to July 1 Missouri Nebraska June 1 to July 1 New York Ohio Oct. 1 to Dec. 1 Jun. 25 to Aug. 15 Jun. 7 to July 20 Jun. 15 to Jul. 15 May 15 to July 1 Oregon June 1 to July 30 Pennsylvania . . . Tennessee Jun. 15 to July 8 Jul. 15 to Jul. 30 June 1 to June 30 Utah Virginia Wisconsin Sep. 1 to Sep. 30 Oct. 10 to Nov. 12 State. California Colorado Connecticut . . . Delaware Georgia Illinois Indiana Kansas Maryland Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Nebraska New Jersey . . . New Mexico . . . New York Ohio Oregon Tennessee .... Texas Utah Sauerkraut. Oct. 15 trf. Mar. 31 Sep. 1 to Dee. 30 Sep. to Nov. Sep. 1 to Apr. 1 Sep. 1 to Dec. 1 Dec. 1 to Jan. 1 Dec. 26 to Feb. 1 Sep.' a to Feb', i Aug. 1 to Oct. 20 Spinach. Squash. Jun. 15 to July 1 June 1 Sep. 15 tj) Jun. 25 June 10 to July 1 May 25 to Nov. 30 Nov. 1 to Nov. 13 Sep. 30 to Nov. 20 Oct. 10 to Oct. 20 Nov. 2 to Nov. 24 Oct. to Nov. Sep. 20 to Oct. 30 Sep. 15 to Dec. 1 Oct. 1 to Nov. 10 Sep. 15 to Dec. 1 Oct. 1 Strawberries. Jul. 16 to Sep. 28 May 30 to Jun. 30 Jun. e'to'jun.'so Jun. 20 to Jul. 4 June 1 to July 8 Jun. 15 to Jul. 13 June 1 to June 21 May 30 to Jul. 15 May 25 to Jun. 30 June 6 to July 20 June 1 July 1 to Sep. 1 126 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Season for packing various products in the different States — Continued. state. Succotash. Sweet Potatoes. Tomatoes. Alabama Not. 1 to Dec. 1 Aug. 1 to Oct. 10 Aug. 1 to Oct. 1 Aug. .8 to Dee. 1 Arkansas California Colorado Aug. 20 to Oct. 1 Connecticut Aug. 15 to Not. 1 Aug. 1 to Oct. 20 Delaware Oct. 6 to Oct. 18 Aug. 1 to Sep. 1 Georgia Aug. 10 to Oct. 1 Illinois Aug. 10 to Oct. 20 Indiana Aug. 1 to Not. 1 Iowa Aug. 10 to Oct. 15 Kansas Oct. 8 to Oct. 26 July 27 to Oct. 5 Kentucky Maryland Massachusetts Aug. Oct. 10 to Nov. 1 Aug. 20 to Oct. 20 Sep. 1 to Oct. 1 Michigan Minnesota Sept. 1 to Oct. 10 Mississippi July 20 to Oct. 30 Missouri Aug. 20 to Oct. 1 Sep. 1 to Oct. B Aug. 15 to Oct. 25 Sept. 1 New Jersey Oct. 1 to Not. 1 New York Aug. 15 to Oct. 15 Aug. 1 to Sep. 1 Aug. 1 to Not. 2 Aug. 10 to Not. 15 Ohio Oregon Sep. 1 to Not. 1 Feb. 15 to Sep. 15 Tennessee Jul. 16 to Not. 15 Oct. to Nor. July 1 to Sep. 1 June 15 to Sep. 1 Aug. 7 to Oct. SO Utah Virginia Aug. 15 to Oct. IS Aug. 1 to Nov. 1 West Virginia Aug. 15 to Oct. i AIVINUAU TOMATO PACKS Compiled By "THE Canning TRADE" This Table gives tlie Tomato Pacl,^„'*„r-i b- cq ^ ""1. "^ O os"oo'io'cq'o5'^''t£rxo' -*' co" . cq' o' oo' CO O CO CO tH 00 00 00 CO CO CO t~ ■<* 05__0_^ ■^' co' o" cq lo lO CO OS ^" t- o Os' (0 bJ (0 03 o • I— I PI 02 S a Pi 0) (D CQ CO a a bo. o cc CD O bo t> r^ O cS 03 -!■= 03 i32 CS 03 PI cS 03 03 (D rS3 Eh O H U) bJ o ^ o> < >^ U IS u A ^ X 2 H o H CO Q U OS D O ON IN On On O o\ ON o ON 00 o ON NO o ON o ON Eh O o 8 O" tF O" tF ro rO 00 ir> 00 On CO 00 "O On CO o S o Q Q Q 6 o o o O^ q_ q, o„ o^ OO" m" m" no" On CO NO O tx o ■^ On 00 CO q_ of ci i-r i-T 8 o 8 8 o o t^ t^ lO Ti- o o o o" o O O O Q O Q O O O Q q, o_ o„ o^ 5 Is! o" r^ no" lo CN) cNi 00 CO Th q W ^ On M of m" I-T I-T o o o '^ CO 8 8 q o 8 8 of oo" K rF O On t^ CO ON NO NO NO lO lO -^ Q w 0) 0( 01 NO ON lo rx NO lo CO On OO" O i-T cK n '^ ON NO lO CO N O CO NO NO o 00 NO O O On On M ON NO f^ CO lO On 00 -Tt- M CO ^ 0) 00 ON NO O) 0) t^ -^ w M On M O lO CO NO NO " t> NO On CO IN^ 00 o" cO NO m -^ -^ 00 On lo CO M lo k-l 01 W M 1-1 O rt .s ^ ^ o 1) •S .2 SO CO rx looo 0) rs^oo 00 O CO t^ M o o o l> ON in m' M CO LO lO 0) 0) CO o o o^ t-^ m" NO w" CO lo On O NO CO t^ CO O O O o o o o o" t^ -. . ON 0) IX o o o no" 8 o d o oq CO NO O 00 lO O o O 0) tx Ti- o o _ lO i-*^ tv. On NO CO O lo On o" CO 00 oo" lO tx NO 00 oq M NO tx 00 M CO i-i a oq ON oo" o 0) no" tx NO > 0) •a 3 M CO CO M CO CO r-^ ^ On o Q o o 5 Ti- w CO o w 1-1 Q On On O -d- oq On oq M H 'd-NO W MM ir> NO iri o O^NO^ CO in 58 O N Q O lo O W !-<_ CO 't ^ ON NO O Q o o t-x O Q O IT) O -^ O oo" ^ CO t< NO NO W O O On O oq o w o On cnoO_ ■*; On i-h" of of On vn CO M 1-1 oq O tx M S°2 ^ O^oo^ oq^ m" CO lO nj '•3 o "3 P en J3 n! - S 00 oq 8 o On O O 00 CO NO o o" 00- o On Ix tx VO" '? IS; CO lO VO no" On xn ON VO CO I-I ON 00 tx CO oq < O ^Jiiio^^^w< H > l-H CQ ia t^ u ss NM *t 00 ■^^ a» ■»H o • H CO -< CO U o o» El a O o EH tf ^ ^ M CQ la » X H < s CO C^ 0) O "1 0\ CO lOOO P< Tj- IT) 0) O N lO w N CO CO M VO VO CO tn\o N O coc^ o d 8 o 8 odoo" K covd CO »o n1 t^rv.-*t^c>) M N o OOCO'^COP^MMW 882 o q O O, q o, q 5 O" lO of pf CO cfi i-T o" o N a\0\'^ a\o 1-1 M CO-^-^COH w M OI^C^OcomQvO w ONtxor^N o CO tv.qNq\q,qf>qvq tC ^vd"oo''od lo cR " O O vo tv,vn Tj- Tl- Tt txNlOw QQ 1-1 Q 0\ cooo o ON o CO o Tt-00 q q\ "3 q o q d\ tF tJ of CO t-^ lovo" O w vo Tt- cooo 01 ■* ■^ CO CO CO CO 11 in O !G t'-' -. ni c I'd .a y rt^ £-53 i53 C (0 rt 83'S fe K8'».^ PACKING MEAT IN THE BIG CHICAGO KITCHEN OF LiBBY, McNeill & libby HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 135 Plums. 1900|1901|1902|1903|19(M|1905|1906|1907|1908|1909|1910|1911|1912 No. 3. No'.' 2%'. Extra Dbl. Ex. Extra Ex. Stand Standard Second Water Pie No. 8. Ex. No. 3 Gr Ex. No. 2% Gr Ex. Stand Standard Water Pie $2.15 1.3S 1.15 1.05 .95 .90 2.20 1.75 1.25 1.10 1.10 .90 .85 1.251.35 1.00 1.15 2.00 1.85 .90 .80 .70 2.0O .05 .95 .90 .85 4.00 3.25 3.00 2.15 1.35 1.10 1.00 .90 .85 2.15 2.00 1.65 1.25 1.05 .95 .85 .80 .70 5.50 3.75 3.25 3.00 2.25 2.05 2.00 1.60 1.30 1.10 1.00 .95 .85 5.50 4.00 3.50 3.25 2.35 2.15 2.15 1.75 1.50 1.35 1.20 1.10 1.05 1.00 5.75 4.25 3.75 3.50 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.75 1.50 1.30 1.15 1.05 1.00 90 5.25 4.00 3.75 3.50 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.30 .05 .90 .80 .75 .70 4.50 3.75 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.90 2.00 1.60 1.30 1.15 1.00 .90 .85 .75 4.50 3.75 3.25 2.75 2.25 1.90 2.00 1.75 1.50 1.25 1.15 1.05 1.00 .85 5.00 4.25 3.75 3.25 2.50 2.25 2.00 1.75 1.50 1.20 1.10 1.00 .95 .90 5.00 4.25 3.75 3.25 2.50 2.25 Grapes. |190011901|1902|1903|1904|1906|1906|1907|1908|1909|1910|1911|1912 No. 3. Extra No. 2%. Dbl. Ex Extra Ex. Stand Standard Second Water Pie No. 8. Ex. No. 3 Gr Ex. No. 2% Gr Ex. Stand Standard Water Pie ,$2.15f2.00fl.85 1.85 1.75 1.35 1.15 1.05 .95 1.31 1.15 1.05 .95 .90 2.25 iS 1.35 1.351.^ 1.05 .95 .85 .80 2.15 1.20 1.10 1.00 .90 2.15 4.50 3.25 3.00 2.15 2.10 2.00 I'.l 1.05 .95 .85 .80 .80 2.002.15 5.50 3.75 3.25 3.00 2.25 2.05 .60.1. 1.30 1.10 1.10 .95 .85 5.50 4.00 3.50 3.25 2.35 2.15 5.75 4.25 3.75 3.50 3.00 2.50 2.00 1 1.50 1.25 1.15 1.05 1.00 .90 5.00 4.00 3.75 3.50 3.00 2.60 2.00 1.50 1.40 1.10 1.00 .90 .85 .80 4.75 4.00 3.25 3.00 2.25 2.00 2.00 1.50 1.40 1.10 1.00 .90 .85 .80 4.75 4.00 3.25 3.00 2.25 2.00 2.00 1.60 1.50 1.25 1.15 1.05 1.00 .90 5.00 4.00 3.50 3.25 2.50 2.25 2.00 1.60 1.50 1.20 1.10 1.00 .95 .90 5.00 4.00 3.50 3.25 2.50 2.25 Asparagus. I 19O3|1904|1905119O6|19O7|190811909|191O|1911|1912 Mammoth White, Pld. Mammoth White Mammoth Green, Pld. Mammoth Green Large White, Pld Large White Large Green, Pld Large Green Medium White Medium Green Small White Small Green No. 1 Sq. White Tips. No. 1 Sq. Green Tips. . No. 1 Tall Ungraded.. $3.75 3.00 3.50 2.75 3.50 2.75 3.00 2.50 2.50 2.25 2.25 2.10 2.50 2.15 4.25 3.25 3.85 3.00 3.50 2.65 25 2.50 2.35 2.16 2.15 2.05 2.35 2.20 4.50 3.35 3.85 3.00 3.75 2.75 3.25 2.50 2.35 2.15 2.55 2.05 2.40 2.25 50 4.85 3..'i5 3.40 .35 4.15 2.80 2.65 65 4.(K» 3.20 3.(K> 65 3.25 2.45 2.25 75 4.25 3.25 3.10 W) 3.50 2.50 2.45 00 3.75 3.00 2.75 40 2.85 2.25 2.15 .■50 3.25 2.25 2.35 25 2.65 2.15 2.05 35 3.(M» 2.15 2.25 15 2.50 2.00 2.00 m 3.25 2.35 2.;-MI x> 2.50 1.90 1.85 75 1.50 1.15 1.00 2.75 2.30 2.35 2.00 2.40 2.00 2.20 1.80 1.75 1.60 1.60 1,50 1.90 1.55 .85 2.85 2.35 2.50 2.0O 2.65 2.15 2.40 1.90 1.95 1.75 1.70 1.65 2.00 1.70 W Continued on next page. 136 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Approximate Comparative Packs of Hawaiian Camied Pineapple. 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 2,000 Cases 1907 186,700 Cases 6,000 Cases 1908 410,000 Cases 9,800 Cases 1909 498,300 Cases 25,600 Cases 1910 625,000 Cases 51,300 Cases 1911 751,000 Cases 84,300 Cases 1912 1,120,000 Cases Approximate Comparative Average Opening Prices on Hawaiian Canned Pineapple. Sliced. I 1908 I 1909 I 1910 I 1911 | 1912 No. 2% Extra No. 2 Squat Extra No. 2 Flat Extra No. 2 Tall Extra No. IVi Flat Extra No. 1 Flat Extra No. 8 Extra No. 8 Extra (In Juice) No. 2% Standard No. 2 Tall Standard No. 2 Flat Standard No. 1 Flat Standard No. 8 Standard No. 8 Standard (in Juice) $2 00 $1.75 $1.75 $1.85 1.60 1.50 1.55 1.55 1.45 1.50 1 80 1.45 1.40 1.40 1.25 1.40 1.00 1.00 1.00 5.50 5.50 5.75 , . 5.00 1 75 1.50 1.50 1.60 1 60 1.25 1.30 .90 1.10 ■;96 1.25 5.00 5.00 5.66 4.50 $2.00 1.65 i.'56 i!66 6.00 i!75 1.35 "95 5.25v Coated and Crushed. 1908 I 1909 I 1910 I 1911 1 1912 No. 2% Extra No. 2 Squat Extra No. 2 Plat Extra No. 2 Tall Extra No. 2 Tall Extra (in Juice) No. 1 Flat Extra No. 8 Extra No. 8 Extra (in Juice) No. 2% Standard No. 2 Tall Standard No. 1 Flat Standard No. 8 Standard No. 8 Standard (in Juice) . $1.85 $1.50 $1.^ $1.65 1.40 1.40 .... 1.45 1.35 1.37% 1.60 1.35 1.35 1..35 1.30 1.30 1.25 .90 .90 .90 6.25 5.00 5.00 5.50 5.50 4.25 4.25 4.50 . . • t 1.35 1.50 1.35 1.25 1.10 1.15 .85 .85 5.75 4.75 4.75 5.00 5.00 4.00 4.00 4.25 $1.75 1.55 i!45 "95 5.73 4.75 1.60 1.30 .90 5.25 4.50 RANGE OF PRICES FROM 1883 TO 1914 F. O. B. Baltimore, Md. Compiled by "The Canning Trade." The following table gives the packer's prices of spot Tomatoes, Corn, Peas, per dozen, and No. 3 Cans, per thousand, from 1883 to January 1st, 1914. No. 2 standard Maine Style Corn is referred to; No. 2 standard Early June Peas; No. 3 standard Tomatoes. Cans are the regular size and standard quality. * — Star indicates record high price. Date. Tomatoes. Corn. Peas. Cans. 1883 January 1 $1.05 $.90 $1.15 $33.50 1883 July 1 95 .85 1.15 32.00 1884 January 1 90 .95 1.40 32.50 1884 July 1 90 .90 2.00* 28.00 1885 January 1 90 1.10 1.80 28.00 1885 July 1 90 1.10 1.50 26.00 1886 January 1 1.00 .90 1.60 28.00 1886 July 1 1.00 .90 1.35 28.00 1887 January 1 90 .90 1.20 28.00 1887 July 1 1.25 1.25* 1.25 26.50 1888 January 1 1.00 1.00 1.25 30.00 1888 July 1 1.00 .80 1.50 28.50 1889 January 1 80 .60 1.40 . 25.50 1889 July 1 75 .60 1.30 24.00 1890 January 1 75 .62 1.30 25.00 1890 July 1 77J4 .65 1.40 26.50 1891 January 1 85 1.00 1.35 30.00 1891 July 1 87>^ .90 1.25 32.00 1892 January 1 90 1.00 1.25 28.50 1892 July 1 85 1.15 1.10 28.50 1893 January 1 1.10 1.00 1.20 26.00 1893 July 1 1.30 .90 1.25 27.00 1894 January 1 1.00 .70 1.20 26.00 1894 July 1 90 .60 1.15 26.00 1895 January 1 75 .60 1.00 21.00 1895 July 1 65 .60 1.00 21.00 1896 January 1 75 .55 1.00 21.00 1896 July 1 : 65 .55 .90 18.50 1897 January 1 75 .60 .90 20.00 1897 July 1 65 .60 .75 20.00 1898 January 1 95 .70 .75 20.00 1898 July 1 1.10 .70 .75 18.00 1899 January 1 70 .65 .75 17.00 1899 July 1 70 .75 1.10 22.50 1900 January 1 67i^ .75 1.20 25.00 1900 July 1 72>^ .70 1.10 27.00 1901 January 1 80 .70 1.10 26.70 3 38 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 1901 July 1 72y2 1902 January 1 1.233^ 1903 July 1 1.60* 1903 January 1 95 1903 July 1 77J4 1904 January 1 70 1904 July 1 70 1905 January 1 67J4 1905 July 1 67>4 1906 January 1 1.15 1906 July 1 1.00 1907 January 1 97>^ 1907 July 1 97^ 1 908 January 1 82>^ 1908 July 1 77>4 1909 January 1 72J4 1909 July 1 67>^ 1910 January 1 65 1910 July 1 70 1911 January 1 80 1911 July 1 90 1913 January 1 1.20 1913 July 1 1.25 1913 January 1 85 1913 July 1 85 1914 January 1 75 CALIFORNIA CANNING SEASON Approximate Period of Packing the Different Varieties FRUITS. Apricots Latter part of June to latter part of August Blackberries Latter part of June to fore part of September Cherries Latter part of May to middle of July Currants . . / Last three weeks of June Gooseberries Latter part of May to latter part of June Grapes Fore part of July to fore part of September Nectarines Latter part of July to latter part of September Pears Latter part of July to middle of October Peaches, Free Latter part of July to middle of October Peaches, L. C Middle of August to middle of October Peaches, W. C Middle of July to middle of September Plums, Green Gage. . .Middle of July to middle of September Plums, Egg Fore part of August to fore part of September .65 1.00 .75 1.00 20.00 .60 .95 20.00 .80 .90 21.50 .00 .90 21.50 .05 .90 18.50 .75 .85 18.50 .80 .85 16.50 .70 .75 16.50 .70 .75 16.50 .56 .95 16.25 .56 1.10 17.50 .65 1.10 18.00 .80 1.10 18.00 .571^ .85 18.40 .70 .85 18.40 .60 .75 17.00 .75 .75 15.50 .82 .75 15.50 .80 .90 16.75 .90 .97 16.75 .70 1.25 16.25 .65 1.20 16.25 .55 1.20 17.25 .55 1.05 17.25 .73>4 .95 17.25 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED POODS. 139 Plums, Golden Drop. . .Latter part of August to latter part of October Plums, Damson Middle of September to middle of November Quinces Fore part of May to latter part of October Strawberries Latter part of March to middle of June VEGETABLES. Asparagus Middle of June to end of November String Beans Middle of May to latter part of June Peas Latter part of August to latter part of Novemb Tomatoes Latter part of August to latter part of Nov'ber CANNED FOODS NET WEIGHTS. These are minimum weights of contents, including juice and water, suggested as proper to be printed upon labels to comply with various State laws. No. Lbs. Ozs. Apples, 4J^-inch 3 1 13 5J^-inch 3 2 3 10 5 14 Asparagus, Tall Salmon Cans 1 15 Tips, Square Cans 1 15 lYz 1 2 2J4 1 14 Round Cans 3 2 1 Square Cans 3 2 8 Bacon, Glass Large 8 Med. 4 Beets 2 14 3 2 1 10 6 9 Blackberries, H. S 2 1 5 Water 1 3 H.S 2J/^ 10 6 9 Blueberries 2 1 4 9X '2 , 10 6 9 California Fruits, Extra 3 2 4 Extra 2J4 1 15 Extra Standard 25^ 1 14 Standard 2J4 1 14 Second 2}4 1 13 Continued on next page. I40 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Canned Foods Net Weights — Continued. No. Lbs. Ozs. California Fruits, Water ~. 2>4 Pie 2y2 8 California Tomatoes 3 Solid Pack 2y2 Standard 2>2 8 Cherries, Ptd. H. S 2 Water. H.S 2y2 H. S 3 10 Clam Chowder 3 Corn 1 3 10 Hominy, 4% inches 3 534 inches 3 10 Kraut 3 5y2 inches 3 10 Lima Beans, Dry White 2 10 Lima Beans, Green 1 2J4 2 10 Lobster, Flat Cans J4 1 Tall Cans H 1 Milk, Condensed 1 Evaporated Tall Family Baby Okra 1 2 3 10 Continued on next page. 1 13 1 13 6 10 2 3 1 14 1 12 6 4 1 6 1 3 1 15 6 9 2 1 10 1 4 6 9 2 1 2 5 6 9 1 14 2 4 6 4 1 4 6 4 11 13 1 4 6 9 3 14 10 14 13J4 1 12 6 9 1 3 1 14 5 14 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 141 Canned Poods Net Weights — Continued. No. Lbs. Ozs. Peaches, H. S 3 H.S 10 Pears, H. S 2 Water H.S 2J4 H.S 3 H.S 10 Peas 1 1/2 2 10 Pineapple 1 2 2y2 10 Plums, H. S 2 H.S 2K H.S 3 H.S 10 Pork and Beans 1 2 3 10 Raspberries, Black H.S 2 Water Raspberries, Red H.S 2 Water. H.S 2K 10 Red Kidney Beans 1 2 3 10 Salmon, Flat Cans }i 1 Oval Cans j/2 1 Tall Cans 1 Nominal 2 Continued on next page. 2 3 6 9 1 2 1 2 1 14 2 6 14 11 14 1 4 6 9 9 1 3 1 12 6 4 1 4 1 14 2 2 11 1 5 2 2 7 1 5 1 3 1 5 1 3 6 9 11 1 4 2 3 6 14 7J/2 15 "i'A 15 15 142 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Canned Foods Net Weights — Continued. No. Lbs. Ozs. Sbrimp, Dry '. 1 4~ iy2 8y2 Wet 1 4 ly 8J4 Spinach, 4% inches 3 2 Syi inches 3 2 4 10 6 2 12 Squash and Pumpkin 2 1 4 4% inches 3 2 5>4 inches 3 2 5 .; 10 6 9 Strawberries, H. S 2 1 5 Water 1 3 H.S 2>4 10 6 3 String Beans, Wax and Refugee 1 11 11/2 14 2 14 10 6 9 Succotash, Lima Bean 2 1 4 10 6 9 Sweet Potatoes 3 2 1 10 Tomatoes 2 1 8 4% inches 3 2 5 inches 3 2 2 5J4 inches 3 2 6 10 6 9 Tongue, Lunch 1 12 Ox 2 1 12 (or 1 tongue) Tuna Fish, Flat Cans 54 7 1 13 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 143 CHAPTER LVL SALESROOM— COUNTER AND WINDOW DISPLAY OF CANNED FOODS. No part of a wholesale or retail grocer's stock is possessed of such possibilities for advertising and display as Canned Foods. In the salesroom of the wholesale store they can be beautifully and artistically arranged if desired. The price can also be marked so that the attention of visiting merchants will be attracted. A very good way is to display special bargains or special brands in the original cases, piled on the side, with cans set on end and faced outward. Another stack or pile can be backed up to the first and faced the other way, thereby saving space. A wholesale grocer's salesroom should have upright glass cases with lifting or sliding doors. Samples of canned foods should be kept in these cases, which should either be equipped with mirror :glass in the back or be double, having standing space on each side of the case and glass doors on each end, so that one can see entirely through the case. Cans of canned foods may also be displayed with vignettes in front and on both sides of the case. This saves room, "but, unless the salesroom is large, will obstruct the view and the light. Such cases should not be more than seven feet tall and the shelving should be of glass strips. A wholesale buyer should have his cutting table made of very thick plate glass or of a white enameled iron or imitation marble composition. The latter is better and handsomer than the common veined marble. It is also cleaner. This cutting table should be in proximity to the sample cases, as many a sale is made by a buyer, who also has the time and inclination to wait on important customers, using samples on the cutting table. Every good cutting table should be equipped with shallow tin pans, enameled white on the inside. They show stuff better than dishes, are not heavy, make but litte noise, and won't break. The great variety of colors and artistic designs on can labels beautify a store, retail or wholesale, more than any other goods a grocer carries ; and the line is susceptible of such an infinite variety in arrangement that it is put to the front on the shelves and counters especially in the best retail stores. A retail grocer should always have good, wide, deep windows, with full length plate glass in the front. His window display is just as important and profitable to him as are those of the general stores to them ; and canned foods, when arranged in the windows, or on the counters in pyramids, or on the shelves, beautify the place and attract 144 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. the attention of buyers. Price cards and cards describing the quality are of course interesting. It is difficult to describe a window or coun- ter display in words so as to be understood, and, as pictures are always interesting to the eye, I have concluded that it is best to show photo- graphs of displays actually made by grocers. From these ideas of the possibilities of such arrangements can be had. CHAPTER LVIL WHOM DOES THE BROKER REPRESENT? Part of an address made by the author to the Indiana Canners' Association meeting at Indianapolis, November 13, 1913. Some time ago, at a banquet, I had occasion to define a broker's earthly mission and status, and I have come to the conclusion, after studying all the encyclopedias, the Bible, and books of familiar quota- tions, and after having taken legal advice in relation to whom brokers actually represent, that my definition formulated on that occasion is the best ever. I said that: "The mission of the broker is to stand immovably and immacun lately, like a great rock of truth and righteousness, between the seller and the buyer in a ceaseless effort to prevent them from 'doing' each other." That definition of a broker's duty is about the best I have been able to find, even with the assistance of the Cahners' Bureau of Re- search at Washington, D. C. Seriously speaking, however, Mr. President, I have come to the conclusion that the canned foods broker is higher and greater legally than the law and better morally than the church. I have looked through stacks of law books, since President Smith "wished" this subject on me, and though I could find hundreds of cases and decisions pertaining to stock and bond brokers, insurance brokers and real estate brokers and their trouble, I assure you that I was not able to find a single case wherein a canned food or merchan- dise broker had figured either as plaintiff or defendant, not even in a breach of promise or divorce case. They seem either to have no troubles or wisely to settle them out of court. I have also looked carefully through the Bible and the Catechism and the Book of Common Prayer, and have failed to find a. single de- nunciation of the canned foods broker or his deeds or methods, nor have I found that any one has ever offered up a prayer in his behalf. The inference to be clearly drawn is that his methods are above reproach, his morals above criticism, and that prayers in his behalf are unnecessary. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 145 Under the weight of all this testimony, an appropriate prayer for a broker to utter should he get into trouble would be similar to that of the irreligious sea captain, whose ship was about to be wrecked in a great storm. He prayed: "Lord, you know that I have never trou- bled you before, and if you will get me out of this scrape, I promise never to call on you again." I do not intend, Mr. President, to assert that the canned foods broker is like Daniel, with a halo above his head and a heavenly smile upon his face, standing in the midst of conscienceless canners and wholesale grocers all waiting to pounce upon him. Nor do I suggest that all brokers will in the great hereafter be asked to come forward and get a harp and put on a golden crown. I am afraid that many of them would feel like a boy I heard about. A new Sunday School superintendent was making his introductory address and said : "All the little children who want to go to Heaven and wear a golden crown will please stand up." They all stood up but the son of a canner, or maybe his father was a wholesale grocer, and his name was Bill, and he sat tight. "Now all will please be seated. Willie, you did not stand. Don't you want to wear a golden crown?" Bill then said: "Nixy, not fur me. De dentist put one of dem tings on me toof last week. Not fur Willie. Never again!" To be serious, however, Mr. President, the broker legally repre- sents the party to the transaction who employs him and pays him his brokerage. There is, I know, a general or popular impression that he acts legally as the agent of both parties, but the law does not so hold. It plainly and undeniably states that he "represents and is the agent of the seller or buyer who employs him and pays him his brokerage." You must not think that the canners are the only people who pay brokerages on canned foods. Wholesale grocers sell a great many canned foods to each other through brokers, and there are in the larger cities brokers who devote nearly all their time to selling canned foods between wholesalers. When canned foods have gone into second hands brokers must sell for wholesalers. Although the broker is legally the agent and representative of the party who employs him and pays him, I hold, and I think that all well-informed and thoughtful brokeijs, canners and wholesalers will 146 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED POODS. admit, that a broker who does not stand impartially, honestly and fairly between the buyer and seller, will not be of any use to either party very long. If a broker represents you he is of no use to you unless he can sell your goods. If he is merely a salesman or advocate for the seller, he cannot hold the respect or confidence of the buyer, and if he loses those, he is no longer of any use to the seller. You employ a broker on the basis of no sales, no brokerage, and only pay him for what he actually does. When you have nothing to sell, he is not on your payroll. Consequetitly he is the cheapest selling agency you can employ. I hold though the law says that the broker is the agent of the party who employs him and pays him his brokerage, that there are relations that the law does not properly consider and some things which lawyers, who are usually not practical, do not know. I hold that ethically and in conformity with the principles of scientific politi- cal economy, brokerage is a part of the cost of the goods, just as would be a salesman's salary, or freight, or labels, or cases, and that neither the canner, the wholesaler, or the retail dealer pays the brokerage, but that it is paid by the consumer who finally uses the goods, as a part of the purchase price, and that a broker really represents the just interests of all parties to the transaction, as well as the best inter- ests of the canning industry. It is a broker's business to bring buyers and sellers together upon agreed terms and to have them sign written contracts of purchase and sale, or accept his sales contract as the terms of the transaction. His duty is then done, and his brokerage is legally due and pay- able, though custom in the canned foods line seems to have estab- lished the rule that brokerage is not payable until after the goods are shipped and paid for. In cases of rejection there is no legal obligation on the broker's part to intervene or to try to satisfy the buyer, for the seller's duty is to deliver the goods according to contract and the buyer's duty is to accept and pay for them. If either fails or refuses to comply with the contract, through no fault of the broker, his brokerage is, never- theless, payable. Here, however, custom seems to have assumed that, where there is a rejection, no brokerage shall be paid. There is no law to sustain that assumption, but every broker should do his utmost to reconcile differences between parties or to resell the goods. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 147 CHAPTER LVIII. THE RELATIONS OF CANNER TO BROKER AND JOBBER. Part of an address made by the author to the Wisconsin Pea Canners' Association at Milwaukee, December 4, 1913. Mr. President and Gentlemen : I am very glad indeed that your president did not ask me to include the retailers in my analysis of existing relations, because I would certainly have found myself walk- ing upon a crust over a volcano. The retail grocer is the court of last resort in food distribution — ■ the guide, philosopher and friend of the public appetite, and standing, as he does, nearest to the eventual consumer, his is the final word. His friendship and co-operation are more vital and essential to the canner than any other link in the chain of distribution; but I will shake his hand and pass him by with my assurance of sincere respect and appreciation, because there are too many and too much of him, and I could not do him justice in as short an address as I propose to make. Lawyers claim that law is the crystallization of human justice and reason, and that it defines all the relations of life and property. There is, however, nothing in all the law books, or great overburdened libraries of the law, that defines the line of distinction or demarcation between the rights and duties of manufacturers, brokers and jobbers. There is nothing in the law which says where the rights and privileges of either of those classes begin or end or how far their field of effort shall or shall not extend. In truth, the law, as it is interpreted or adminstered in these modern days, is antagonistic to organized or systematized distribution, and to the scientific economies of distributive effort. It recognizes no right, for instance, on the part of canners, brokers, or jobbers to organize or co-operate in order to define the boundaries of the field of effort each shall occupy, or to agree to confine their co-operation or patronage to those who do business along the lines of true ethical rela- tionship, or, to speak plainly, who keep within their proper sphere and mind their own business. If two or more wholesale grocers were to agree not to buy goods through a broker who sold to the retail trade, they could be prose- cuted and punished under the anti-trust laws. If two or more canners were to agree to sell no goods to a jobber who conducted a cannery, or who put his private or house label on canned foods, they could be punished under the anti-trust laws. If two or more jobbers were to agree not to sell goods to another jobber because he sold goods to consumers, they could be punished under both state and national laws. 148 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Hence we find that the situation between canner, broker and jobber, in respect to their relations, so far as their sphere of active effort is meant by their relations, must be individual and ethical or moral entirely, for it cannot be legal if there is any element of co-op- eration by agreement. A case in point is that of the Southern Wholesale Grocers' Asso- ciation. It's officers and members were fined in the United States courts very recently because they published a "green book" containing a list of wholesalers and let manufacturers understand that they would not be patronized if they sold parties not classified as wholesalers at wholesale prices. A great condition of confusion exists, and probably will continue, as to the trade restrictions between canner, broker and jobber. Hence we find canners selling direct to retail grocers, brokers selling to large retailers, and jobbers and canners selling to large con- sumers. It being held as opposed to public policy and the law that any restrictions be agreed to or placed upon distribution or commerce, there are only two other influences which can be depended upon to preserve and maintain the proper relations between canner, broker and jobber, namely, self-respect and ethical or moral influence. We all know, in this country of magnificent distances and high freight rates, that all the elements or factors employed in our plan of distribution are essential ; the canner to prepare and produce canned foods ; the broker to sell them ; the wholesaler to buy them in carload lots, thereby saving a heavy difference in freights, to extend credit to the retailers, to carry the surplus stocks and to act as banker to the entire plan, and the retail grocer to furnish the goods to the consumers in quantities to suit the wants of each. I have been unable to find where anyone has written or spoken carefully, or after much research or thought, upon this much-vexed question of the mutuality of interest or true relations between canners, brokers and jobbers. Therefore, if we can find no precedents in law and no guidance in philosophical literature, we must place the respon- sibility upon our consciences, each doing his part individually. "Honor and fame from no condition rise; act well your part, there all the honor lies." It is morally recognized that the sphere of the canner is manufac- turing. If he distributes his goods through the jobber, believing it cheapest, safest and best to do so, he is in honor bound to refrain from intruding upon the jobber's privilege of supplying the retaiJ trade. If he wants his own labels introduced, he can always arrange with some jobber to co-operate with him and to handle and ptish his brands. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 149 If he prefers to sell direct to the retail trade, he should not expect the jobber to buy his products, and will not then be disappointed. The broker is legally only a salesman, acting under the instruc- tion of the principal who employs him. If he solicits the patronage of the wholesale trade he should feel in honor bound to refrain from selling to the wholesaler's customers. There is a difference between a broker and a factor. The broker has not the goods in his possession or control; the factor has, and usually bills and collects for them. Though not legally the agent of both parties, the broker morally and ethically is, and must stand squarely and impartially between buyer and seller when he brings them together in the transaction of business. The wholesaler is a distributer and banker to the trade, and that is his sphere. If he becomes a manufacturer, selling the jobbing trade, he cannot complain if canners compete with him in the retail trade. A wholesaler does not, in my opinion, become a manufacturer, or competitor with manufacturers, merely by using his private label on canned foods, for it is not his purpose in doing so to sell the whole- sale trade; but it is his object in doing this to advertise his business, to hold and make permanent his customers, and to protect his profits. We hear a great deal in these days about the securing of legis- lation to put the canner's name on the label ; but, sincerely speaking, I do not consider the matter of much importance to canners. To intro- duce a label and establish a trade for it is a most expensive under- taking, and the expense must be continuous and persistent in order to keep the label on the market. Should any of the canners who have established their labels discontinue advertising for a single year, the waves of oblivion would roll over their reputations, and their labels would disappear from the grocers' shelves. At present I am of the opinion that canners who pack goods for private labels make more money than the big advertisers who push their own brands. In conclusion, Mr. President, this is a great country, and it has a wide-open, unrestricted commercial policy from a legal point of view. Any man in business, be he canner, broker or wholesaler, has a right to conduct his individual business as he pleases, and there is nothing in the Constitution of the United States or in our laws to say him nay, as long as he keeps the peace, doesn't slander his competitors, and deals honestly with the public. But, Mr. President, there is an immutable law of reciprocity and compensation in God's grand universe, and in the wisdom and by the will of our Creator there is a place for every man, and every man is safest and happiest in his appointed place. 150 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. There is an unwritten law of right and conscience which we do not find in the law books. This will safely guide us if we will heed it. Did I say an unwritten law? I am wrong! It was written, and as written it reads : "Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's house, thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's wife, nor his man servant, nor his maid servant, nor his ox, nor his ass, nor anything that is thy neighbor's." It is God's rule of reciprocity, and forbearance and mutual con- sideration, and it was written thousands of years ago, in the midst of a a dark cloud, upon the summit of Mount Sinai, while the earth quaked and trembled, and the lightning blazed and flashed, and the thunders rolled and crashed, and it was written on ston? tablets by the finger of Almighty God. It is the best law today by which to regulate the relations between canner, broker and jobber, and all other human relations. CHAPTER LIX. HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR BRAND OR LABEL. There was once a philosopher who claimed that he could make shoes though he had never made any. I am not in that dubious or unfortunate position in writing this chapter, as I have introduced on the market a number of labels which are still popular. The control or ownership of a label, in these days of strenuous advertising, is wisely regarded as important; for there is no other means of holding a patronage once gained, or of securing the cumula- tive benefit from care and from painstaking efifort to give good quality and full value. In fact, there is no other basis upon which to place », progressive and enterprising effort, for it is the repeat orders that pay the profit after the first order has been obtained. Canners, a few brokers, the wholesalers, and some retailers now, to a greater or less extent, use their own labels on canned foods, and I know of a few instances wherin commercial travelers have had their own personal labels put on a line of canned foods. Labels are now very cheap. They are, in addition, made in artistic and brilliant styles, so that even a small output can be intro- duced under private label. As I have stated previously in this book, the canner puts his label on the cans because they contain his product and because he naturally desires to derive whatever advantage he can from its merit. He sometimes objects to putting a dealer's label on his product and he resents the practice of concealing the source of the goods. A LOAD OF SALMON BEING TOWED TO CANNERY BY TUG SCENE IX ONE OF XEW YORK'S CANNING KITCHENS SEALING MEAT CANS UNDER VACUUM HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 151 Dealers are prompted by the same motive, namely, a desire to be associated with their brand; and by the additional purpose of securing for themselves a fair margin of profit and of avoiding the onslaught of price cutting competitors. There is no immorality or deception in- volved in a dealer's labeling goods with his private label as the law compels him to print on the labels the words "distributed by" or "packed for." This plainly shows that the owner of the label is not a manufacturer. Many canning establishments which put out large lines of canned foods include among them some that they do not pretend to manufacture themselves. The first step in the introduction of a label is to get a label or a series of labels. Vignettes, colors and styles are made in great variety and can be obtained without expense by writing to label manufacturers who specialize in canned food labels. A catchy trademark name is harder to get, in fact, it would seem that everything appropriate has already been used or patented. Some word that rolls off the tongue easily and that has some significance or reference to superior quality should be chosen. Then a neat design and conspicuous vig- nette should be selected. It is not necessary to have the name of the owners of the label very conspicuous, but the word by which the line of goods is to be known and advertised should be prominent. Firm names change, but trademark or advertised names go on forever, as they represent property or good will. Bright or light colored labels soil more easily than dark colored ones, but the latter look dismal in a poorly lighted store and are not so attractive as light colored labels. Having selected a label, mail it to "The Librarian of Congress," Washington, D. C, and have it patented. The fee is $35.00. You do not need any legal help as the department will advise you whether the word or design has been previously patented and the label manufac- turer will advise you if it is being used on canned foods by any other concern. Canners usually have three series of labels for three grades of goods — Fancy, Extra Standard and Standard — but some have more than one series and some have quite a number of labels in order to give control of a line or label to competing dealers in the same territory or district. Large wholesalers also frequently have a number of different labels for the same purpose or reason. For houses of moderate capacity the three series of labels for canned foods is sufficient, viz. : Fancy, to be retailed at 20 to 25 cents the can; Extra Standard, to be retailed at 15 to 20 cents the can, and Standard, to be retailed at 10 to 1254 cents the can. Labels should be kept in cases or on shelves carefully protected by Edwaid Flach Flach Bros. Grocery Co. National Brokers' Association. Ed. T. Klum ■ Ed. T. Klum H. B. Perlee H. B. Perlee Brokerage Co. W. R. Chace W. R. Chace CLEVELAND, OHIO. National Grocers' Association. Lyman F. Narten, Chairman The Weidman Co. Frank C. Wagner Higgins-Babcock-Hurd Co.. George A. Jones The William Edwards Co. National Brokers' Association. B. W. Housum The Housum-Grace Co.. A. G. Gibson A. G. Gibson & Co. Paul E. Kroehle Paul E. Kroehle Co. DENVER, COLO. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. Charles Hatfield, Chairman The C. S. Morey Merc. Co. C. E. Cowell The Struby-Estabrook Merc. Co. P. S. Hessler The P. S. Hessler Merc. Co. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. W. S. Hurd C. R. Hurd Brokerage Co. A. J. Nicholls A. J. Nicholls Co. W. N. W. Blayney DETROIT, MICH. National Grocers' Association. S. J. Campbell, Chairman Lee & Cady E. A. Elliott C. Elliott & Co. Matthew Hannon Michigan Grocery Co. National Brokers' Association. F. E. Bowen Floyd E. Bowen & Co. James Baldwin Baldwin & Squier Herbert Smith F. B. Neuhoff Co. INDIANAPOLIS, IND. National Grocers' Association. Ames W. Reagen, Chairman J. C. Perry & Co. John C. Smith Indianapolis Fancy Grocery Co. Roy L. Davidson M. O'Connor & Co. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 177 Boards of Arbitration — Continued. National Brokers' Association. Eugenie Larger Bunning-Larger Co. Harry A. Angell Harry C. Gilbert Co. Frederick Wingate Frederick Wingate JACKSONVILLE, FLA. National Grocers' Association. John Ball, Chairman Consolidated Grocery Co. C. W. Bartleson W. C Bartleson Co. H. C. Van Horn Baker & Holmes Co. National Brokers' Association. To be appointed later. KANSAS CITY, MO. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. J. C. Lester, Chairman The Ridenour-Baker Grocer Co. O. V. Wilson The Ryley-Wilson Grocery Co. F. C. Johnson The Kawmo Wholesale Grocery Co. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association Henry Flarsheim Seavey & Flarsheim Boyd W. Harwood Gabel-Johnson-Harwood Brokerage Co. L. R. Bolles Goodlett & Bolles LOS ANGELES, CAL. National Grocers' Association. John Krafft, Chairman Haas, Baruch & Co. Victor H. Tuttle , R. L. Craig & Co. L. C. Norris Stetson-Barrett & Co. National Brokers' Association. Roth Hamilton Hamilton & Menderson F. W. Stith .F. W. Stith Company O. B. Franz Lee-Franz Brokerage Co. MEMPHIS, TENN. National Grocers' Association. W. C. Early, Chairman W. C. Early Co. Joseph H. Stewart Stewart-Gwynne Co. S. H. Phillips Shanks, Phillips & Co. National Brokers' Association. To be appointed later. NEW YORK, N. Y. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. W. B. Timms, Chairman Austin, Nichols & Co. Sig Seeman Seeman Bros. Philip C. Staib Koenig & Schuster 178 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Boards of Arbitration — Continued. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. W. D. Breaker U. H. Dudley & Co. A. L. North North & Dalzell F. A. Aplin J. K. Armsby Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. Albert Mackie, Chairman Albert Mackie Grocery Co., Ltd. W. L. Saxon The Smith Bros. Co., Ltd. H. T. Cottam The H. T. Cottam Co., Ltd. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. D. R. Graham Graham-Boswell Co. Fred Miller W. A, Gordon Co. Tatman Thompson Tatman Thompson Co. OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA. National Grocers' Association. J. T. Robinson, Chairman Carroll, Brough & Robinson C. E. Vaneleef Ridenour-Baker Merc. Co. O. D. Halsell Williamson-HalsellFrazier Co. National Brokers' Association. W. M. Gillespie Meinrath Brokerage Co. J. R. Russell Russell Brokerage Co. W. T. Love Oklahoma Commerce Co. OMAHA, NEB. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. John S. Brady, Chairman McCord-Brady Co. Charles H. Pickens Paxton & Gallagher Co. R. B. Comstock Allen Bros. & Co. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. J. P. Fallon Seavey & Flarsheim C. B. Shackleford H. S. Sussmann Meinrath Brokerage Co. PEORIA, ILL. National Grocers' Association. John Riggs, Chairman Oakford & Fahnestock Milo E. Reeve John McCoy Co. Alex Furst Jobst, Bethard Co. National Brokers' Association. G. R. Garrettson Jones Brothers Joseph Keevers L. H. Lyford Co. C. A. Hoxsie C. A. Hoxsie & Co. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 179 Boards of Arbitration — Continued. PHILADELPHIA, PENN. National Grocers' Association. Thoinas Roberts, Jr., Chairman Thomas Roberts & Co. F. B. Reeves, Jr Reeves-Purvin & Co. William C. Halpen Halpen-Green Co. National Brokers' Association. Charles Roberts Jessup & Roberts F. B. Bonstedt. W. G. Bonstedt & Co. John J. Hallowell T. A. James & Co., Inc. PITTSBURGH, PA. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. D. C. Shaw, Chairman D. C. Shaw & Co. Thomas C. Jenkins Thomas C. Jenkins James A. McAteer James A. McAteer & Sons National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. George A. Buse Buse & Caldwell Harry W. Dunlap E. T. Shantz PORTLAND, ORE. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. Frank A. Spencer, Chairman Allen & Lewis Louis Lang Lang & Co. J. T. Brumfield Mason, Ehrman & Co. National C. G. & D. F. Brokers' Association. H. M. Haller Kelley, Clark Co. F. W. Ariss Ariss, Campbell & Gault Richard Adams Parrott & Co. RICHMOND, VA. National Grocers' Association. Peyton Grymes, Chairman Stokes-Grymes Grocery Co. Clarence D. Coleman Spencer-Nunnamaker Co. Isaac B. Davenport Christian & Winfree Co. National Brokers' Association. Robert M. Smith Robert M. Smith & Co. John Adam John Adam Sanford Fleming T. S. Southgate & Co. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. National Wholesale Grocers' Association. Victor H. Tuttle, Chairman R. L. Craig & Co., Los Angeles S. Sussman Sussman, Wormser & Co. Frank B. Peterson Frank B, Peterson & Co. i8o HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Bo4 Vegetables, 2 dozen; weight per case. 65 Lbs. No. 3 Vegetables, 2 dozen; weight per case. 67 Lbs. No.lO Vegetables, 1 dozen; weight per case. 100 Lbs. It is quite probable that the opening of the Isthmus or Panama Canal will make an important change in freight rates in both or all directions, as the Mississippi River route will be utilized in connection with the ocean route then. Refrigerator car shipments to protect from cold in the winter time can usually be had without additional charge as many refrigerator or lined cars are then idle, being used actively only in hot weather. Atlantic Coast shipments can, of course, be made by coast lines, and shipments to the interior made at cheaper rates than by all-rail. HOW TO BUY AND SEI.L CANNED FOODS. 185 CHAPTER LXVII. LINKS IN THE CHAIN OF DISTRIBUTION. (Canner — Broker — Wholesale Grocer — Retail Grocer.) Address of John A. Lee made before the annual convention of the National Canners' Association, at Baltimore, Md., Wednesday, February 4th, 1914. Mr. President and Gentlemen of the Convention : Everyone likes to know what his rights and privileges are and where the boundaries of his field of achievement are located. If he is a fair and just man he wants to avoid intruding upon others, and if he is a self-respecting man he dislikes to have others trespassing upon him. In order to define some of these rights and privileges, and to fix or locate some of these boundaries in the great co-operative and essentially helpful field of the Art of Commerce, I am going to talk to you briefly about "The Links in the Chain of Distribution." I will of course confine the discourse to the consideration of food distribu- tion, as that is what we are all interested in. There are only four links in our chain of distribution, the canner, the broker, the wholesaler and the retailer. It has been suggested to me that the farmer or producer is a link in the chain, but he is not, and it has also been suggested to me that the consumer is a link, jjut that is also an error. Neither consumer or producer can consistently be called dis- tributors, and are therefore not parts of the chain of distribution. The producer at one end of the chain and the :onsumer at the other end are even more important than links, because they are the great eternal pillars of production and existence, dependent one upon the other, and connected by the chain of distribution. Some claim that the railroads are links in the chain, but I con- tend and maintain that they are not. They are merely facilities, and means employed in distribution, and no more an integral part of the great commercial chain than would be a ship, or a wagon, or a cara- van of camels, or a drove of burros, or a handcart, or any other means to promote the ends of distribution. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. I claim that the present system of distribution, by means of this chain of four links, is so strong in all its parts that it cannot be broken, or changed. The law of commerce, like the law of gravity, is immutable, and distribution, like water, seeks the easiest and least obstructed channel. Let's analyze the strength of these links and learn what tests they have withstood. i86 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. The canner, the first link, has for his mission the conservation and preparation of the products of the soil and waters. His is a glorious work and, if he is conscientious in the peiformance of his work, constantly striving toward merit and economy, keeping always before his vision and in his ambition the improvement and perfection of his output ; his link will ever be looked upon as the strongest of all. If he will loyally support the established system, he will find it in the future as in the past, the safest, best and cheapest method, based upon tried and tested economies of co-operation. This link, the canner, has been tested in the school of adversity, and tried in the fierce assaults of defamation, slander and injustice, but the clouds of ignorance are being scattered by the bright rays of truth and enlightenment, thank God ! And the canner is coming into the honor and appreciation due him. The value of his services is gaining recognition, and the work of his brain and hands is meeting and meriting world-wide sympathy and approval. Occasionally there is found a canner who, through inexperience or carelessness, or incompetence, or indifiference, packs and puts on the market qualities which are so poor that they do discredit to the in- dustry. He don't usually belong to the National Canners' Association, nor is he one of the links in the chain of distribution. He is what students of Darwins theory of evolution would call "the mnsing link." The second link in the chain is the broker, one of the humblest of whom I am. It is his mission to bring the canner and the wholesaler together upon terms of just and fair contract and agreement, and not to consider that the brokerage paid him places him under undue obliga- tion to either party, because it is really a part of the cost of the goods, and is paid by the ultimate consumer. Being paid only for actual results, he is by far the most economical of all sales agencies, and does his part as a link in the chain so economi- cally and so well that his position is unassailable, and economists can find no substitute for him. He has been repeatedly denounced as a burden upon commerce and a tax upon distribution, but he lives on and on exulting in his usefulness, while his enemies and detractors have disappeared, and the places which knew them once know them no more, while the broker, like Tennyson's brook, goes on forever. I believe that all canned food brokers, on account of their in- dustry, their humility, their poverty and their piety, will, when they die, go direct to the highest heaven, by the through "Paradise Lim- ited," stopping briefly only at the stars of the first magnitude for supplies of radium and electricity. There are some bad brokers — not many — some — now and then one. They create discord between buyer and seller by "arelessness and misrepresentation. That kind don't belong to the National Canned HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 187 Foods and Dried Fruit Brokers' Association. They are stumbling blocks in the path of distribution and are soon pushed aside. The third link in this splendid chain of distribution is the whole- sale grocer. It is his mission to act as banker to the entire system. He takes the canner's product and pays cash for it. He ships it in carload lots, thereby saving a large amount of freight, and sells it to the retail grocer on credit. He practices every art of commerce and all the skill of merchandising, in order to render his service effective and economical. He builds great warehouses and brings the rail- road tracks into them, and locates them beside the docks that ships may unload their cargoes into them. He equips them with powerful elevators, and with spiral chutes, endless conveyors, and patent slides ; and uses the skill of the nations inventive genius to cheapen the cost of handling canned foods and other foods. He employs armies of salesmen and trains them to induce the retail grocers to discriminate as to qualities. He employs expert buyers, who carefully select that which is good and refuse that which is bad. He takes chances and risks not only in the extension of credits, but in buying canned foods on pro rata contracts and guaranteeing one hundred per cent, delivery to his customers. He accepts swell guarantees that are limited and gives unlimited guarantees to the retail grocers. He pushes, promotes and advertises the products of the canners, and contributes liberally to their publicity fund and work, but if he happens to think that the wrong quality has been shipped, and rejects a carload or two, he is promptly consigned to the kitchen of the abode of eternal damnation, and given the position of fireman. I heard of a canner who, when a wholesale grocer rejected a car of his goods, wrote the wholesaler and told him to go to hell ! Then they arbitrated the rejection and the wholesale grocer won. The canner then wrote another letter to the wholesale grocer and said : "I wrote you to go to hell ! Don't go ! Go somewhere else ! 1 am think- ing I might go there myself, and I don't want to meet you." Wholesale grocers are warm friends to the canning industry, and are indispensable as allies and coworkers. The chain of distribution would be almost useless without this strong link. Their great national association stands firmly in its faith and confidence in the progress and future of the canning industry. The wholesale grocer's friendship must not be undervalued, for he has been a potent friend to the canning industry from the day of its beginning to the present time. Old friends are the best ! Hold fast to them! There are some bad wholesale grocers. We now and then find one who reclaims unjustly, or discounts unfairly, or tries to evade his contracts. i88 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. That kind don't belong to the National Wholesale Grocers' Asso- ciation, and is fast falling out of the front rank and off the firing line, and their places are being filled by merchants who are honorable and fair, and who strictly adhere to high principles. May the day never come, Mr. President, and conditions never arise when the canner and the wholesale grocer have to part company, for a close alliance is of inestimable advantage to both. At last we come, Mr. President, to the fourth and last link in the chain of distribution, the retail grocer, who stands with one hand clasping that of the consumer, as the very living and life purveyor of the people, while his other hand is extended in friendly co-operation and helpfulness to the canner, the broker and the wholesale grocer, the other links in the chain of distribution. He is the last link in the chain, and his is the last word in the argument. His loyalty and friendship are freely bestowed upon his co-workers and they have his faithful support and co-operation, as long as the service they render is honest and economical and as good as he can obtain — but no longer! His loyalty is first to the consumers, his customers, who rely upon his judgment and ability for the health and welfare of themselves and their families. No one in all mercantile life works harder than the retail grocer, long hours, exacting service, petty sales, unreasonable requirements, and fierce competition surround and beset him, and his reward is small. Very few retail grocers get rich and great numbers of them live humbly and die poor. The retail grocer is frequently denounced by impractical reform- ers, robbed by debtors whose families he has fed in times of distress, Ijurdened with taxation, hounded by municipal grafters, and bedeviled by promoters of impractical schemes for selling unmeritorious goods. Yet he patiently moves onward, getting up long before day, and working until late at night, trying thereby to give a full measure of good service to his patrons. In the aggregate he dispenses more practical charity than all the organized charities in the world, and the orphans' cry and the widows' appeal are never made to him in vain. I have stood in the retail grocer's store many, many times, when I was a commercial traveler, and have repeatedly seen the little baskets of the poor filled with something to eat, for which no payment was ever received or expected. Nor does the retail grocer send for the reporter of the Associated Press to tell him of his beneficence, which frequently keeps him poor. The reformers or special writers who denounce the rtail grocer of the United States as an unessential middleman, to whom is attributable HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 189 the high cost of living, should be ignored and forgiven. They are mentally and morally irresponsible, and remind me of Thompson's historical colt which swam the river in order to drink out of a stagnant horse pond, and of the man who sawed the limb off between himself and the body of the tree, and of the famous bull which tried to butt the locomotive off the track, and of a verse from the Bible which reads "Though thou shouldst bray a fool in a mortar, among wheat, with a pestle, yet will not his foolishness depart from him." There has been steady progress, but there is still room for im- provement in the retail grocery business. It is a business which is entered too easily, and the exit is too frequent and disastrous. There should be a system of apprenticeship and examinations for com- petency. The food purveyors of the United States are the guardians of the public health, as well as of the public appetite and should know something about the chemistry and manufacture of foods. Many of them do! All should! We have a national department of commerce now ; why not have schools of commerce, conducted by the State as well as agricultural colleges ? In conclusion, Mr. President, having described the links in the great chain of distribution, let's briefly speak of it as a whole. It represents the spirit of commercial co-operation and mutual helpfulness for promoting good public service, expressed by the words "each for all and all for each." It is typical of that forbearance and consideration, that tolerance and respect, which prompts these great co-operative forces to avoid intruding and trespassing upon the privileges and rights of each other. It is emblematical of the power of co-operative intelligence over individual effort and of organized effort over undirected or misdi- rected force. It represents the highest type of public service, directed and con- trolled by the spirit of American institutions, and it typifies that merit and that service which is described in the Book of Proverbs in these words : "Seest thou a man diligent in his business, he shall stand before kings, he shall not stand before mean men." T90 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER LXVIIL CANNED APRICOTS. The apricot is an ancient fruit of the order of plums and is said to have originated in Armenia. This, however, is doubtless a fact at- tributable to its botanical name. Prunes Armenica. It is a delicious fruit, stone bearing like plums and prunes, but resembling in some respects a peach. It grows in favored localities to a large size, sometimes being almost as large as the pefch, which it in some respects resembles in appearance and flavor. The apricot is grown and cultivated to a greater extent and perfection in California than elsewhere in the world, and is extensively grown and used for canning in that State as well as elsewhere. The chief varieties used for drying and canning are Mohr Park, Blenheim, and Royal. The apricot has not as much natural sweetness as the peach as it more closely approaches the plum in acidity and requires a heavy syrup to render it palatable. This fruit has an aromatic or fragrant flavor or taste which dis- tinguishes it from nearly every other fruit known, which is considered by many as most delightfully delicious. Others hold that this very individuality of bouquet or flavor palls upon the taste and soon sur- feits those who eat it regularly. It is extensively cultivated and canned in California and is put in the regular No. 2^ can pitted and halved, but not peeled, also in No. 10 cans in the same style. It is packed in Pie, Seconds, Stand- ard, Special Extra and Extra grades, sometimes being packed in No. 1 cans by some canners in heavy syrup. The apricot makes a fine pie and is therefore largely used for that purpose. However, it is a fine dessert, and its use canned is rapidly growing. Fine apricots are canned to some extent peeled, and in that form are regarded as a most superb dessert for the tea table. In buying canned apricots examine an average number of cans carefully to see whether the fruit has been canned ripe, being then a bright yellow color, or whether it has been picked green and allowed to ripen, when it is always of a greenish color and insip'd flavor. When unripe it is hard and tough and devoid of the distinguish- ing or individual fragrance of flavor which characterizes the ripe fruit. The fruit is sometimes weather or insect specked and should be inspected for such imperfection. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 191 CHAPTER LXIX. CANNED SUCCOTASH. This article is purely an American preparation, its name being derived from a North American Indian word meaning a mixture of green corn and green lima beans, or one of green corn and green stringless beans. The Indians, however, had another name for green corn and green stringless beans, mixed, for they called it "Tossiman- ony." Both these preparations are canned and both are called succotash. As generally understood, however, succotash means comraercially a preparation of green corn and either green or soaked lima beans or pole beans. The combination of green corn with green stringless beans, when cooked with bacon, is an excellent article of food and should be more extensively sold and known. Succotash is packed in No. 2 and in No. 10 cans. The best quality is made of tender green corn and green lima beans and can be branded Succotash under the law. When composed in part of dried or Cali- fornia lima beans, it must be labeled "with dried beans' in order to comply with the various pure food laws. Maine packers can a very excellent succotash of green corn and what they call pole beans, — long, round, fat beans. They claim that the beans are green and do not label their product "with dried beans." These beans are, however, not green in color, and are in appearance very suggestive of dried beans. The ungraded green lima beans are excellent for succotash and should be about 25 per cent of the whole used to 75 per cent, of corn. Buying and Selling Points. — Look carefully to the quality of the corn in the cans. Lima beans are usually a late crop and the late crop of corn used to make this combination is frequently tough, fibrous, and poor, though the beans may be good. A good green corn, dry bean succotash, if the corn is good, is superior to the green corn and green lima mixture if the corn is poor. If you handle the green stringless beans and green corn combina- tion, see that the beans are tender and stringless and that the corn is tender and young. This combination is easier for the packer as the green stringless beans come just right in season to be packed with green corn. This article in both forms affords to wholesale and retail grocers a good margin of profit. 192 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CHAPTER LXX. NECTARINES, PRUNES, CURRANTS AND QUINCES. THE NECTARINE. This fruit has a common origin with the peach and is really sl variety of peach. It is said that the tree of the nectarine will fre- quently reproduce peaches and vice versa. It is a smooth skinned fruit and has not a downy surface like the peach. There are a number of varieties of nectarines having different flavors and the fruit is grown almost solely on the Pacific Coast in the United States, though well known in other countries. It is said that peaches and nectarines are sometimes found grow- ing on the same tree. It is not a popular or very salable fruit when canned, as it lacks size, color, style and appearance, but in flavor is highly jegarded by many. It is generaly canned like the apricot, unpeeled, but is sometimes- peeled. It is a much smaller fruit than the peach and, in fact, is about the size of large plums, and by many is regarded as a variety of plum. Points of merit of the canned nectarines are large and uniform size, bright color, ripe but firm condition of the fruit, and free lom from specks or insect stains on the skin, fruit processed not too heavily so as to loosen the skin. This fruit should be canned in at least 30 degrees of syrup, as it has much acidity of flavor. The canned article should be bought cautiously, as it is a slow seller. PRUNES. This excellent and prolific fruit is merely a variety or species, of plums. A prune is a dried plum. There is a kind of plum, however, which is known as a prune plum, which is grown upon the Pacific Coast of the United States, a large, dark, meaty plum, fairly sweet, and this plum is used for canning. It is so sparsely used for that purpose, however, that in the commercial listing of the varieties of canned fruits it is seldom listed from the fact that prunes are so- staple dried that people do not appreciate the fact that this fine plum is not a dried fruit afterward canned. Buyers should order it very sparingly, as it is a misunderstood and unappreciated product of the canner's art, although of superb value and fine rich flavor. It Is judged in buying or selling as are other plums, as to fill of the can, meaty large size of fruit, the degree of syrup which should not be too sweet,, and the firm retention of the shape of the fruit, rather than to be boiled or cooked too soft. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 193 Dried prunes of fine quality are sometimes, in fact regularly, packed in tin cans, both in France and in the United States, but the cans are not hermetically sealed and are classified under dried fruits rather than under canned foods. CURRANTS. This fruit is of limited production. It is grown on a deciduous shrub and there are three varieties of currants, red, black and white. This fruit is generally used in the manufacture of jellies and jams and is not used in its natural state to any extent. It makes superb jellies and jams, having a very fine individuality of flavor most appetizing and relishable when served with meat in the form of jelly. There are a few currants packed in cans on the Pacific Coast in syrup which are merely stemmed, blowed and processed. The red variety is generally used for that purpose. This fruit is also canned in the East, usually in No. 10 size cans for the use of preserve and jelly makers. It is canned on ihe stem and stemmed. Some manufacturers claim that if currants are picked oS the stem and processed in water they loose their flavor, therefore, some are canned on the stem for preservers' use. When stemmed and blowed and hermetically sealed in cans in syrup, red currants make a fine tea table desert, or can be made into most excellent pies or tarts, but, as before stated, its use in this way is quite limited. The fruit is not very prolific or productive. The canned fruit should be ripe red and of uniform size. The stems should be well removed and so should the blooms or blows, but this cannot be done with absolute perfection by any machine yet invented, without crushing the fruit, and the process is too tedious and expensive to be done by hand. QUINCES. This is quite an ancient fruit and has been known and cultivated for many centuries. It grows on a low, wide bunching shrub or small tree, and is a prolific fruit. There are a number of species, some of which are inedible on account of excessive astringency, but the quince known and used for canning and preserving in this country is a large fruit and is regarded as most desirable for preserving. As ordinarily canned, even in syrup, quinces are not popular or salable, and they are chiefly used for making preserves. For that reason this fruit is largely packed in No 10 cans in water, after being peeled, cored and quartered and then sealed and processed. T94 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. The fruit should be ripe when canned, carefully peeled and cored and processed just enough to keep it in the cans. A heav)'- cooking turns quinces red and that is very undesirable. The fruit should be bright and free from brown spots or specks. CHAPTER LXXI. CRANBERRIES, FIGS, LOGANBERRIES AND CRAB APPLES, SAUCES, JAMS, JELLIES AND FRUIT BUTTERS. CRANBERRIES. Cranberries are cultivated and grown chiefly in the Eastern part of the United States, in Massachusetts, New Jersey and elsewhere. They are grown on low or swampy ground on running vines, and are picked or gathered in September and October. This fruit is very sour and is not used except in the form of cranberry sauce or jelly, and is, therefore, not canned at all in its natural state. It is a very hardy berry and generally produces well. It is chiefly marketed and shipped loose or bulk in barrels and the principal part of the crop is disposed of in that way. Canners have not succeeded in popularizing canned cranberries, but improved methods of preparation and manufacture are slowly doing so. Being almost devoid of natural sweetness, the cranberry requires the use of a large proportion of sugar to render it palatable. The canned product is usually designated "cranberry sauce or preserved cranberries." Prepared with about an equal amount of fruit and sugar this fruit when canned makes a very fine relish to serve with fowl or meats or as a desert. It is also prepared by pressing the juice from the fruit, straining out the hulls and making a jelly or "strained cranberry sauce." This process is held by some chefs and epicures to deprive the sauce of an individual relish of flavor possessed by the skin or hull of the fruit, a slightly bitter but not unpleasant aftertaste. Many of the finest caterers only serve cranberry sauce of the whole fruit unstrained, because of that fact. Points of merit in canned preserved cranberries are a bright lively color. A dark color implies that overripe berries or unsound fruit has been used, this defect can also be detected by the flavor. Where the berries have been canned whole or of the unstrained fruit, unsound berries can be easily discovered by close inspection. Where the fruit HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 195 has been strained and is canned in the form of a jelly, only the tsate and color are left to judge by. If the preparation is iii the form of an ugly motley colored fruit butter wherein the skins and all the fruit have been boiled into a pulp the preparation is unsalable and no one who has eyes or taste will buy it or oifer it for sale, as it is most surely made from a lot of fruit carried too late in barrels or that has been spoiled by the weather. FIGS. This fruit is very ancient and is known throughout the world. In the dried form it is a very important article of commerce. The canning of fresh or undried figs has been in vogue for many years in Europe and for some time in the United States, but has never attained large or important proportions. Owing to the sensibility of fig trees to frost this fruit cannot be successfully produced except in the extreme southern parts of the United States, below about 32 degrees north latitude. Fig culture is therefore confined to Florida, Mississippi, Louis- iana, Texas and California. The canning of fresh figs on account of the delicate and quickly perishable character of the fruit, must be done near the place of growth, and in the states previously named are located about the only canneries of figs in the United States. It is the custom of canners to use a very heavy syrup to the fruit, but whether this is because it is essential to enable the delicate fruit to stand the processing or to counteract any other peculiarity, or be- cause the fruit, somewhat insipid in its fresh state, needs a heavy syrup to give it flavor and character, or as is probable, because the first canners of the fruit used a heavy syrup, and others have followed the example, I do not know. Canned fresh figs, as prepared in the United States, are delicious, but are rather a preserve than otherwise, and so rich that some find them cloying. This may account, to some extent for the rather re- stricted sale attained, though it is the case that the limited growth and uncertainty of the crop is a still more important factor, for about all the canned figs produced are readily sold and the supply is fre- quently short of the demand. Figs are packed whole in the cans and the small stem of the fruit is not removed. In eating the figs can, therefore, if desired, be held by the stem as is done when the fruit is served direct from the tree. A clear syrup, figs not black or very dark, fruit of uniform size, well filled, fruit free from evidences of unsoundness or decay, and tender but firm are conditions of merit which should be considered. 196 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CRAB APPLES. The crab apple is a wild apple in its original state, from which all our cultivated apples have been evolved. The Siberian crab apple is, however, a distinct variety which, when selected at the proper stage and canned in a syrup of about 30 degrees, is regarded by many, especially by Germans, as a great delicacy. They use these crab apples as relishes to serve with fowl or meats. The sale, of course, is limited, but so is the supply, and it is usually exceeded by the demand. It is customary to can these Siberian crab apples leaving on the stems, unpeeled and whole. Uniformity of size, good syrup, well filled cans, stems on, pro- cessed enough to soften the fruit, but not enough to break the skin or mush the fruit, are the tests of quality. The taste should be agree- able though slightly bitter. There are some vaHeties of crab apples which are too bitter to be eaten and these should be looked out for and avoided. LOGANBERRIES. Within the past 15 or 30 years a new berry has appeared in the United States known as the Loganberry. It is said to be a product of grafting the red raspberry on the blackberry and the cross known as the Loganberry partakes of the characteristics of each of those berries. It is of a long and rather slim shape, somewhat like that of a mul- berry and does not look either like a blackberry or raspberry. It is of a dull red color, but has a very fine flavor seeming to have the size and meaty character of a cultivated blackberry combined with the fine, durable acidity and high fragrance and flavor of the Cuth- bert red raspberry. It is so far grown only on the Pacific Coast, and though it is now probably more largely produced and canned there than either raspber- ries or blackberries, the demand for canned loganberries far exceeds the supply. The fruit has a most agreeable acidity of flavor and is said to make when so prepared a superb jelly. Size, uniformity, freedom from stems and leaves, the fill of the can, freedom from dried up or decayed fruit are the points of merit in the canned article. APPLE SAUCE. This article is now quite extensively canned and has become a very popular article with city restaurants for serving at lunch. For this purpose it is put extensively into No. 10 cans, well sweet- ened, spiced and carefully strained. Some is, of course, put in No. 2 cans, but not a great deal. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 197 Housewives seem to want to make their own apple sauce, but the restaurants, hotels and institutions find that the canner is able to supply them with a better article than they can themselves make, and at a lower cost. Points of merit are a can well filled with well sweetened apple sauce, nicely spiced, and of heavy consistency. JAMS AND JELLIES. The production of these goods is confined to a very few canneries. Most of the jams and jellies used in this country are packed in glass or pots, and are not hermetically sealed in cans, and as this is a book treating of canned foods, the subject is foreign to this book, except so far as the goods are hermetically sealed in cans, which is to only a very limited extent. The California canneries can jelly regularly making it from pure fruit juice, and I have seen and used upon my table, black currant jelly canned in California that was not to be surpassed for delicious flavor and consistency. Clearness and flavor are the points of merit to inspect. FRUIT BUTTERS. These goods are generally distributed in wooden packages of all sizes in season and are not canned to any extent. They were formerly canned quite extensively by New York canners, but they were of such slow sale in cans that, but little is now produced.' CHAPTER LXXII. CARROTS, TURNIPS, CUCUMBERS AND CAULIFLOWER. Carrotts are canned in a very limited way, the demand and sale for them is very small, indeed. This vegetable can be kept when buried in the ground or in a cellar in dry earth so long and so well that can- ning of it, except for army or navy use is hardly necessary. When canned it is carefully cleaned, peeled and cut into cubes. Carrotts are used in a mixed vegetable combination that is canned in the United States, an article which has attained considerable sale. TURNIPS. This vegetable is a good winter keeper, and except for special purposes is not in sufficient demand to justify any degree of attention from canners. Turnips are used in combination with other vegetables in a prep- aration of mixed vegetables which has attained some sale. Turnips are carefully washed, pared and cut into small pieces and then canned and processed in the usual way. 198 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. CUCUMBERS. Canned cucumbers may be designated as a specialty of small sale. They are carefully peeled, sliced and put in the cans, and then a very delicious and relishable dressing is put in the can before they are sealed and processed. I know of but one firm (Baltimore) that specializes on canned cucumbers, and that firm seems to have a monopoly of the business. I have noticed that too heavy a process or cook is apt to make canned cucumbers tough eating, by destroying with heat that natural crispness which is essential, but the canned cucumbers I have seen of recent years seem to have been quite well protected against that fault. Cucumbers are packed in special sized cans. This article has great merit and should sell more largely. CAULIFLOWER. This is an article of splendid merit when canned, and the cooking it receives in processing the cans makes it perfectly ready for use by warming the can. It is a vegetable which should be more generally canned and used. It is not at all troublesome to can and is promptly salable and the market is never well supplied with it. Only the head is used and must not be overprocessed until it turns soft or mushy in the can. CHAPTER LXXIII. HOW TO SPECULATE IN CANNED FOODS. My advice is that which was given to the girl who was about to elope with an undesirable man, which was, "Don't ! !" Speculation in canned foods has a great many uncertainties and many disadvantages. However, some buyers make a profit by specu- lation and here is about the way they do it. They study the crop statistics, which one can have sent to him by the Agricultural Department at Washington free of all charge. Information as to the condition of crops and other matters are given therein. They study the canning statistics, which are compiled each year, and then get all the inside or unrecorded information possible, the kind that is never published, but which is passed along by word of mouth and whispered or spoken quietly as it goes "down the line." The speculator pumps the buyers and the brokers to learn about the stocks of the article which wholesalers are carrying as compared > g C !^ O a a 3 O W Z f> o o H 00 CO s O HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 199 with previous years, and he enquires of salesmen and retailers as to stocks held by retail dealers. He studies the market of past years and learns what the course of prices was. He then studies the money market, the conditions of employment, the bank clearings, the general business outlook and some other matters like carrying charges, storage, interest, etc., and finally confirms his judgment when made by putting up hypothetical conditions to buyers whom he knows to be wise and shrewd by sug- gesting that they buy the article speculatively, and listening to their views of approval or objection. Being thus fortified, he either drops his intentions or wades boldly into the deep waters of speculation and buys heavily for a rise. CHAPTER LXXIV. SALSIFY AND CELERY. SALSIFY. This article sometimes called oyster plant, is canned in only a limited way, and is not really a desirable food product. It is too fibrous and tasteless to please, and has but but little nutritive value. It should be nicely peeled, cans well filled and cut up in small pieces. CELERY. This article does not can to advantage, though some of it is canned and used. The processing by heat takes away from it that delightful crispness which is a characteristic of the fresh celery. The manufacture and use of canned celery is very limited. CHAPTER LXXV. MUSHROOMS. This article has been extensively grown and canned in Europe for many, many years, and most of the canned mushrooms are still im- ported. The imported mushrooms are brought here in cans of about 16 gross ounces, and the mushrooms are most carefully sized and graded. The smaller sizes are very minute indeed, running as small as 200 to the can, and the grading by buyers is usually by count to the can, rather than by the French or foreign grading. Every particle of the mushroom is used, even the stalks are canned and graded as "hotel grade," used for slicing and garnishing. The imported mushrooms are grown in caves or cellars and are bleached white usually, though the choicest unbleached, or of about a lemon color are considered to be of the best flavor; and the smallest 200 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. are not deemed as of as good flavor as the medium sized or more ma- ture grade or size. The mushroom is a fungus and is really of but little edible desirability as to flavor or nutritive value, though it is largely produced and consumed. In this country but little attention is given to this article. None scarcely are grown for canning, and all that are produced are sold in the markets to consumers. There are several wild species of mushrooms or fungi which look like mushrooms and one or more of the varieties are poisonous. It is diificult for an unskilled person to tell the good from the poisonous varieties. This circumstance has caused the consumption of mushrooms in the United States to remain very small, and has retarded the culti- vation and production of them in this country for canning purposes. Imported mushrooms in cans are absolutely free from risk, how- ever, as they are not gathered wild, but are cultivated with great care and skill from seed that is known to be reliable and by people who have been trained to the work. Points of merit are uniformity of size in the can. Buttons are regarded as more desirable than stems, and the finer qualities consist of buttons from which the stems have been closely trimmed. Free- dom from black or brown spots or blemishes or from a brown color on the inner surface of the button or top of the mushrooms of the larger size, which designates them as old c>r too mature. CHAPTER LXXVI. BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ENDIVE, DANDELION AND KALE. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Brussels sprouts have been cultivated for centuries and gets the name from the city of Brussels, a city of Belgium. It is a vegetable that is very popular in Europe, and its popu- larity is growing in the United States. It is canned in a very limited way and is but little known as a canned article, though it is desirable as a canned vegetable. ENDIVE. Endive is of several varieties or kinds. Its principal use is for salads. There is a long leaf kind and a curly leafed kind. The latter is usually preferred, not alone on account of the appearance, but because of a more decided flavor, which is rather bitter though not dis- agreeably so. It is canned in a very limited way. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 201 DANDELIONS. The dandelion plant is used as a greens or for salad and is some- times put in cans like spinach, but very infrequently so. KALE. This plant is sometimes called sea kale, and thrives best in a light, dry soil, near salt water. It is considered very fine for greens and is occasionally canned. It is more often called or labeled spinach than kale. CHAPTER LXXVn. OLIVES, OATMEAL, SPAGHETTI, MACARONI, PLUM PUD- DING, MINCE MEAT, CRACKED WHEAT, RICE, SOUPS. OLIVES. This ancient fruit is now produced in many parts of the world, and is usually gathered green and pickled in brine or in vinegar. In California it is extensively grown, but California olives are largely used for making olive oil and for canning when ripe. The olive oil is pressed from ripe olives and canned ripe olives have been very generally introduced throughout the United States and liked by many in preference to the green pickled olives so gen- erally known and used. Ripe olives are also imported in casks in brine from Europe. Olives are largely preserved in glass, either in brine or vinegar and the canning of this fruit is still in rather an unim- portant quantity. OATMEAL. The canning of cooked oatmeal has never met with great popular favor in this country. It is a most convenient preparation and the process of canning is well adapted to give to oatmeal that thorough cooking which it requires, and the hermetically sealing of the product preserves the freshness of flavor and moist consistency of cooked oat- meal when it is properly prepared. It is usually put in No. 2 and No. 3 cans and sold at a price which admits of a fair profit for both wholesale and retail dealers. When the time, fuel, wasted by scorching, and mistakes in cooking are taken into consideration, canned oatmeal is much cheaper than un- prepared oatmeal to the housewife. Freedom from husks, black specks and foreign substances of all kinds and a good fairly firm consistency in the can, just about proper, when warmed by placing the can in hot 202 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. water, to use at once, without further preparation, are the points of excellence. SPAGHETTI AND MACARONI. The canning of spaghetti and macaroni has for its support the arguments and facts given pertaining to the canning of oatmeal, viz. : economy, cleanliness, proper cooking and preparation, convenience and superior flavor and methods of preparation. These articles are usually prepared with tomato sauce, seasoned and slightly — very slightly — with garlic or onion juice. Manufacturers have succeeded in canning these articles in a highly palatable way, and they have a strong advantage over home cooking in being able to buy the materials in large quantities and in bulk so as to make canned spaghetti and macaroni a cheaper article than the housewife can pro- vide from the same materials, and a scientifically prepared, cleanly, wholesome and most relishable preparation ready to use after being warmed by putting the can in hot water. CRACKED WHEAT. This article is prepared and canned similarly to oatmeal, except that it is not so heavily processed and has never attained the sale and popularity canned oatmeal has though equally as deserving. CANNED RICE. Prepared and cooked rice is canned plain, with tomato sauce, with sausages and in several other styles. These preparations all have that value and economy of preparation which is given to a food product by scientific methods and the skill of trained chefs. The rice used should be of the best quality, and a close inspection of the canned product should be made for imperfections or foreign sub- stances and for choice flavor. PLUM PUDDING. This article is canned in England and in the United States, but in very different styles. The English article is made with plums and by an entirely different recipe. Canned plum pudding in the United. States is made without plums, but raisins and citron are substituted therefor. This article is quite salable and popular and is extensively canned and used. It is packed in cans of a conical pyramidal shape so that the contents will slide out easily when the can is opened and the cans are usually equipped with patent opening keys. Plum pudding so prepared is a very rich desert, and a sauce to be used with it is, also canned. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 203 MINCE MEAT. Mince meat is not largely canned, but its convenience and desirability is immediately seen. There is a great deal of very cheap mince meat sold in bulk in this country. It is comprised of a few raisins, cloves, etc., a very little chopped meat and an overwhelming quantity of chopped apples. There is, of course, great quantities of fine mince meat sold, but it usually comes in glass jars or in tin cans. No. 3 and No. 3. Care should be shown in handling mince meat in glass, as it is not a good keeper, and it should be kept in a cool place and entirely away from the light and sunshine. Canned mince meat is usually made of the very finest materials. The heavy falling off in consumption of wet mince meat in the past decade is atttributable to the use of poor materials, and the introduc- tion of dry or evaporated mince meat. CHAPTER LXXVin. CODFISH, CLAM CHOWDER, MACKEREL, HERRING. CANNED CODFISH. Canned codfish has become quite popular in a few years past as a substitute for the boneless salt codfish for many years and still packed in wood boxes, paper boxes, etc. The canned codfish is made of mild cured codfish and gives the people a most desirable article, not too salt and not too fresh, but just about right. It is carefully prepared, being absolutely boneless and entirely free from skin or any but beautiful solid white, flaky codfish. It has been charged that other less aristocratic fish are used in canned codfish, in fact, one prominent cannery does not label its product codfish, but other packers deny the charge; however, if it is true, it is a fact that nice hake or haddock are about as good as codfish, and by some are even preferred. Everything should be honestly labeled and sold, however, and my investigations lead me to assert that canned codfish or even canned hake is far more reliable than the various grades of fish packed in open boxes, exposed to contamination and decay. 204 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. In five years past, through the judicious and persistent advertising by one firm, canned codfish has come to be a well known and well liked staple article of food. It is entirely free from the uncleanly and un- sanitary condition under which the bulk or boxed boneless codfish is handled. Canned codfish may be safely kept and used all the year round, which is an advantage over the unsealed article, which cannot be handled or safely used in hot weather. CLAM CHOWDER. This article could be more consistently treated under the head of soups, but it has an individuality of classification which seems to en- title it to a place apart from soups. It is made from clams, the liq'uor from the clam shells, various vegetables, including usually potatoes, a small quantity of onion and crackers, and is seasoned with pepper, salt and butter. The clams used are the long clams and they are usually chopped and the black part excluded, though this is not always done, but should be. It is usually packed and sold in No. 3 cans, though it is also put in No. 1, No. 3 and No. 10 cans. There is a clam chowder that is packed in small sized cans and called condensed, but is can hardly be classed as so desirable as that which is ready for immediate use without dilution. There is a tendency on the part of canners to use the cheaper materials too freely and be illiberal with the clams. In buying it is best to see that a fairly generous proportion of clams is used and that the chowder is rich and tasty, rather than thin, insipid and watery. In order to test it a can should be heated and tried, just as it is pre- pared and ready to go on the table. In fact, a buyer in selecting and testing canned food should put himself in the consumer's place. CANNED MACKEREL. Fresh mackerel is canned in the United States in No. 1 and No. 2 cans. It is canned in France and elsewhere of very small sized fish in sardine style cans. It is highly desirable and meretorious as a canned article and in the writer's opinion holds its freshness and flavor when canned better than any other fish, salmon and sardines not excepted. When it was first put on the market in this country in No. 1 and No. 2 cans it became immediately popular and there was such a de- mand for it that canners could not supply it. Then the catch of mack- erel failed and grew smaller and unscrupulous packers began to put herring in cans and label them fresh mackerel, bluebacks, etc., etc. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 205 This promptly killed the demand for canned mackerel, which goes to show that a lie and a fraud will ruin an industry as well as a repu- tation. The canned herring was substituted for canned mackerel with some success for a few years, and then the demand for canned mack- erel expired as the people would no longer buy the substitute or con- sent to be deceived. Very little canned mackerel is now produced in the United States. It was for a while very extensively canned in No. 1 and No. 3 oval-shaped flat cans, and with tomato sauce, or mustard sauce, but the clutch of greed and fraud siezed this part of the industry and herring again masqueraded as mackerel and the people quit buying the fraudulent product. Since the Pure Food and Labeling Law went into effect conditions have changed, and the frauds are no longer perpetrated, but the harm has been done, and it will take years to re-establish the demand for canned mackerel through a restoration of public confidence. In buying canned mackerel, and in order to know that there is no substitution or admixture of other fish careful attention should be given to these points. The skin of the mackerel is without perceptible scales, and is striped laterally or across the fish, with dark stripes, the meat is almost white and of a solid texture, while the shape of the fish is heavy across the body in front of the dorsal or back fin and behind the gills, tapering sharply until the circumference of the fish just in front of the tail fin is very small and round rather than flat. CANNED HERRING. This article is extensively canned and in many styles and shapes of cans. It is not a very desirable fish for canning purposes having a flavor which is hard to describe and not very agreeable to the palate. It is the great food fish of the ocean, and is furnished by nature in countless numbers. The fish is used in many parts of the world as a staple food resource. It is largely used in the manufacture of sardines on the Atlantic Coast of the United States, and the herring flavor, combined with the flavor of cotton seed oil, makes a combina- tion which is especially distasteful to the educated palate. Fresh herring when properly cleaned, cooked and highly seasoned, are regarded as good eating, and smoked herring are popular. Canned herring in order to be palatable must be seasoned with mustard sauce, tomato sauce, or spiced. It will be observed that in all styles of preparation the fish, though wholesome and nutritious, must be prepared, viz. : highly seasoned, smoked or with condiments in order to, divest it of the "weedy" flavor which it possesses. 2o6 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Many ocean fish seem to have that same flavor, which is by some attributed to the phosphorous which is prevalent in the chemical com- position of fishes and is supposed to be imparted by certain kinds of food the fish consume at certain times of the year, as it has been ob- served that there are periods when or places where such fish are free from the flavor mentioned. Canned fresh herring, without preparation, is a very slow seller, and as it can no longer be sold for mackerel it is suffering from the fraud practiced by its friends, though, when properly prepared, it is a good, cheap canned food ; especially in mustard sauce or tdmato sauce. The meat of the herring is white and firm, with red variations or markings near the vertebra and other bones. The flavor of the sauce in which it is packed is important, and should be carefully inspected. Common, cheap mustard or tomato pulp used in the sauce give the product an abominable and disgusting flavor, instead of a relish, and should be guarded against. CHAPTER LXXIX. CANNED TUNA, TURTLE, FISH ROE. CANNED TUNA. The European tuna (or tunny) fisheries are located around the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, and are important and productive. The true tunny, which is a member of the mackerel family, frequents the northern coast of Sicily, and extensive fisheries are located there. This fish, which is pelagic or an inhabitant of the surface waters of the ocean far from shore, at certain seasons of the year approaches the shores, probably in pursuit of schools of sardines or herring, which appear to migrate at those times. The tunny grows to an enormous size, sometimes ten feet in length and weighing a thousand pounds. The tunny is canned in olive oil and is exported from the Mediteranean to all parts of the world. The flesh is very firm and solid, but some- what dry, hence it is canned in oil and is justly regarded as a fine delicacy. This same fish is found in other waters, sometimes on the Atlantic coast of North America, but more abundantly on the Pacific coast of the United States, where it is regarded as a grand game fish when caught with line and pole, but is seldom found there weighing more than four hundred pounds, in fact, such specimens are very rare. There is another fish, however, of the mackerel species, known as the albacore (tuna) which has come into great popularity in the past few years. It is found on the Pacific coast and is caught and canned chiefly or altogether at present at points in California south of San Francisco. The albacore is a beautiful fish, trim-shaped like a HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 207 mackerel, with enormous muscular development along the vertebra and back. It is distinguished from the smaller sizes of tunny or tuna by long pectoral fins, which fold along its side, almost resembling those of the flying fish. This fish is caught usually by hand line fishing methods, and with stout poles arid lines, while they are feeding upon the schools of sar- dines. They ^seldom approach very close to shore, but are easily caught with sardine bait, when a school is found. They are found and caught from 10 to 80 pounds in size, seldom or ever larger. This fish is now extensively canned on the Pacific Coast, and is processed in refined salad or cotton seed oil. The meat is as white as unspotted snow and the flavor of the fish more resembles that of the breast of chicken, though somewhat whiter, than any other article of food. It makes a superb salad and can be prepared in many other ways, and is considered by many superior to the breast of capon chicken, though much cheaper. Manufacturers or canners furnish recipes in pamphlet form and printed upon the can labels for the preparation of this delicacy, and have by other intelligent methods of advertising brought it into such popularity that the demand is constantly greater than the supply. The preparation of this fish is also conducted with great care, as it is drained entirely of blood, steam cooked, cooled, then all the skin and bones are carefully removed, and the white meat packed into cans sealed and processed, labeled and cased. CANNED TURTLE. The great green turtle is an inhabitant of the ocean. They prefer warm or tropical or semi-tropical waters and can be found in the Atlantic, the Gulf of Mexico and, in fact, in nearly all parts of the world. They grow to an enormous size, sometimes weighing one thousand pounds. They are amphibious, but seldom leave the water except to deposit their eggs in the sand, and then only for a short distance, as they are marine animals and are very awkward on land and almost helpless when assailed by an enemy. The favorite time for capturing them is when they at night have crawled out upon the sand to deposit their eggs, they are gregarious, and go in herds or schools. Turtle hunters turn them upon their backs and they cannot turn over. When captured they are taken to the canneries, of which there are a number, killed, cleaned, cooked and the cans are filled with several kinds of meat, selected from various parts of the turtle, which animal is said to contain meat, in turn, resembling fish, flesh and fowl. The ^r'-t'n tuitle is a reptile, is oviparous and herbiverous, that is to say it produces its young from eggs hatched in the sand, and it feeds upon vegetable substances. 2o8 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. On land it is awkward and helpless, but in the water it is quick,, powerful and swift, consequently, the pursuit of green turtles by har- pooning or spearing them is a hazardous occupation, and the ordinary net or line and hook will not hold them. Soup made from the meat of the green turtle is regarded as a rare delicacy, and on account of the difficulties attending its capture and canning, the article sells at a high price. FISH ROE. The roe or eggs of herring are canned extensively, and quite a. business is done at points in Virginia and on the Chesapeake Bay in the article. Herring roe is a by product of the fisheries and as herring approach the shores and are most abundant in the spawning season,, the roe is plentiful and cheap. It is highly regard by many as a food and delicacy. Shad roe is also canned to a very limited extent. Of the roe of the Sturgeon canned caviar is made. It is usually imported from Russia, but of late has become very expensive and! scarce. THE END. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 209 California Asparagus is grown and put up by Libby, McNeill & Libby in the Sacramento Val- ley, where climate, soil and careful cultivation produce the finest asparagus in the world. Libby's California Fruits Peaches Pears Apricots Cherries Insist on Libby's Libby, McNeill & Libby, Chicago ^^/r^h^rr^^^'^^' 2IO HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. WE MAKE PERFECT LABELS Ask Our Customers THE CALVERT LITHOGRAPHING CO. "THE MODEL SHOP" DETROIT - MICH. CHICAGO OFFICES: 127 North Dearborn Street 938-939-940 Unity Bldg. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 211 40 GOOD THINGS FOR THE TABLE Tomatoes Our Specialty . . Quality Unexcelled . . PORK and BEANS and RED KIDNEY BEANS THE BEST TEN CENT BEANS ON THE MARKET C. M. HILLIARD Gen. Mgr. ALL GOODS PACKED BY C. M. HILLIARD, ARE OF HIGHEST POSSIBLE GRADE QUALITY IS FIRST CONSIDERATION C. M. HILLIARD CO., Butler, Pa. If you want to please the people who appreciate good Tomatoes, sell BYNUM RUN AND OAK LEAF 2 Brands of Tomatoes that bring ■'REPEAT" orders because the Quality is always dependable. Sanitary tins. PACKED IIS HARFfORD COUNTY BY W. W. BRADFORD = Belair, Md. 212 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Those who buy JOAN ^=OF== ARC RED KIDNEY BEANS Come back for more. The Illinois Canning Co., Hoopeston, 111. C. S. STEVENS, Pres. W. L. STEVENS, Treas. F. M. STEVENS, Sec'y. STEVENS BROS. Cedarville, New Jersey ESTABLISHED 1888 INCORPORATED 1908 CANNERS UlNITED STATES CODE FACTORIES : Cedarville Cape May Goshen Eldora ,^t . HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 213 64f A l>^l:z^c>¥r^ 1:^99 — or— Labels on Canned Poods are a guarantee of Quality PACKED ONLY BY Wisconsin Pea Canners Co. MANITOWOC, WIS. PACKERS OF Peas String Beans Sauer Kraut Pork and Beans Pumpkin Red Kidney Beans Hominy Lima Beans FACTORIES AT Manitowoc Two Rivers Sheboygan Reedsville Amery Turtle Lake ALL IN WISCONSIN :i4 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. Fredonia Preserving Company FREDONIA, NEW YORK Packers of High Grade Fruits and Vegetables in tin and glass. OUR BEST BRArVDS: BUTTER NUT BRIDAL BELL WOODBINE FREDONIA BEAUTY and GILT EDGE Owning and operating factories at Fredonia and Silver Creek, Chau- tauqua Co., Wilson, Modeltown, Newfane, Niagara County, N. Y. SAUBS OPPICES, PREDOINIA, rv. Y. Annual Outputs 400,000 Cases and up'wat-ds WEBSTER-BUTTERFIELD CO. IINCORPORATED BAUTIiVlORE, MD. OAIVINERS OF? HIGH GRADE FOOD PRODUCTS "VS^EBSTER'S BEST" BRAIND OVSTERS, ERUITS and VEQETABUES HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 215 HOLE AND CAP AND SANITARY CANS No matter what style of can is used it is a matter of common business prudence to use the best made of the desired type. * * * Service coupled with quality is an equal consideration. Service means "a whole lot" embracing as it does every detail co-incident with the hand- ling of the business. It means prompt shipments — cans when you want them. Shortest mileage to your factory— low freight rates and quick time. A proper personal consideration of needs be- fore and after cans are delivered. It is on the basis of quality and service that the American Can Company solicits your busi- ness. AMERICAN CAN COMPANY Chicago INE>V YORK! San Francisco Baltimore Rochester, N. Y. Portland, Ore. 2i6 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. TOTAL PACK OF HAWAIIAN | 1903— 9,800 CASES PINEAPPLE J 1912—1,318,000 CASES QUALflTY alone is reason for this wonderful increase The Thomas Pineapple Co. HONOLULU, HAWAII Pack the following Brands EXTRAS STANDARDS "THOMAS' BEST" "PRIDE OF HAWAII" "HAWAIIAN FLAG" "ROYAL PALM" WE ALSO PUT UP THOMAS' PURE HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE JUICE IN BOTTUES AtND CAINS SINCE 1869 We have been catering to trade seeking quality Tlnose WHO KNOW and appreciate Quality in Canned Foods always specify McGRATH'S Write for Current Price List THB H. J. McGRATH CO. CHAMPION BRAND QUALITY CANNED FOODS BALTIMORE, MD. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 217 JOHN A. LEB JOHN B. HENDERSON LEE BROKERAGE COMPANY (INOT 1>'C) 657 West Randolph St., Chicago We are brokers, and dealers, in Can= ned Foods alone and do not handle other lines of goods. We are specialists in the line and if your business is not of satisfactory pro- portion in Canned Foods write to us and we will diagnose your case aiid prescribe for it. If you want to handle canners labels we can help you. If you use your own labels we represent the canneries that can supply you the qualities and the uni- formity and reliability that is essential. LEE BROKERAGE CO. ...INDEX... pagh; Advance, or Future, Sales 21 A Model Business Organization 65 Apparent Costs and Real Costs 67 Apple Butter 197 Apple Sauce 196 Apples 95 Apricots 190 Arbitration and Arbitrators 174 Asparagus 82 Beans and Pork 105 Beans, Lima 70 Beans, Red Kidney 105 Beans, Stringless 63 Beets 107 Berries no Blackberries lOO Blueberries no Brokers, Canners, Wholesalers — Their Relation 147 Brokers' Usefulness, Affirmative 36 Brokers' Usefulness, Negative 38 Brokers — Whom They Represent 144 Brussels Sprouts 200 Business Leaks and Stealages 25 Buyers of Canned Foods 10 Canned Foods — Their Care 156 Canned Foods— Their History 13 Canned Food Statistics 122 Canned Meats 114 Canners, Brokers, Wholesalers — Their Relation 147 Cans, Standard Sizes 87 Caring for Canned Foods 156 Carrots 197 Cauliflower 198 Celery 199 Cherries 112 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 219 INDEX— CONTINUED. PAGET Clam Chowder '. 204 Clean, Economical, Wholesome 14 Clams cj6 Codfish 203 Condensed Milk 115 Corn 42 Costs — Apparent and Real (ij Counter Displays 143 Crab Apples ig6 V^; 'rabs "9 Cracked Wheat 202 Cranberries 194 Cucumbers igg Currants 193 Dandelions 201 Dead Stock — How to Move It 158 Displays — Window, Counter and Salesroom 143 Distribution 185 Economical, Clean^ Wholesome 14 Employment of Salesmen 57 Endive 200 Established Sizes of Cans 87 Expense and Use of Samples 33 Figs 195 Fish Roe 208 "Future" Sales of Canned Foods 21 Fruit Butters 197 General Information — Unclassified 181 Gooseberries iii Grapes 120 Gumbo 116 Hard Work and Hard Play 40 Herring 205 History of Canned Foods 13 Hominy v 102 How to Regulate Stocks and Purchases r 78 .220 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. INDEX— CONTINUED. PAGE How to Route and Ship Canned Foods ". 183 Liformation — Unclassified 181 Introducing Your Brand or Label '. 150 Jams 197 Jellies 197 Jobbers, Canners, Brokers — Their Relation 147 Kale ' 201 F.;idney Beans — Red 107 r.raut 103 L.abels — Jobbers' Name on 30 Labels — Packers' Name on 28 Laws — National and State Regarding Labeling 160 Leakers, Swells and Rustics 75 Leaks and Stealages in Business 25 Lima Beans 70 Links in Chain of Distribution 185 Lobster 93 Loganberries 196 Macaroni 202 Mackerel 204 Meats — Canned 114 Milk — Condensed 115 Mince Meat 203 Moving Slow or Dead Stock 158 Mushrooms 199 Nectarines 192 Oat Meal 201 Okra 116 Olives 201 Oysters 97 Packers' Labels : 28 Peaches '. . . . 85 Fears 92 Peas 16 Pineapple 89 Plum Pudding 202 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 22r INDEX— CONTINUED. PAGE^ Plums 113 Pork and Beans 105 Potatoes — Sweet no Private Labels 30 Prunes 192 Pudding, Plum 202 Purchase of Stock — How to Regulate 78 Pumpkin 104 Quinces 193 Raspberries loi Red Kidney Beans 107 Rhubarb 118 Rice 202^ Roe of Fish 208 Rustics, Swells and Leakers 75 Salesmen — Employment of 57 Salesmen's Selling Points 59 Salesroom, Counter and Window Displays 143, Salmon 50 Salsify 199 Samples — Use and Expense of 33 Sardines .' 72 Selling Points for Salesmen 59 Shipping and Routing Canned Foods 183 Shrimp 117 Soups 121 Spaghetti 202 Spinach 109 Speculating in Canned Foods 198 Squash 104 Statistics , 122 Stealages and Leaks in Business 25 Stocks and Purchases — How to Regulate 78 Strawberries no Stringless Beans 63 Succotash 191 222 HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. INDEX— CONTINUED. PAGE Sweet Potatoes no Swells, Leakers and Rustics 75 The Buyer 10 The Label and the Law 160 Terrapin 207 Tomatoes 47 Turnips 197 Tuna Fish 206 Turtle 207 L'se and Expense of Samples 33 Usefulness of Brokers, Affirmative 36 Usefulness of Brokers, Negative 38 Wholesalers, Brokers, Canners — Their Relation 147 Wholesome, Clean, Economical 14 Whom Does the Broker Represent? 144 Window Displays 143 TO KEEP POSTED ON CANNED FOODS Read the Journal of The Canning- Industry, published weekly at Baltimore, and which will keep you in touch with market prices, conditions, etc., in an up-to-the- minute way- 1914— The 38th year of continuous service to this one industry THE Canning TRADE BALTIMORE MARYLAND SUBSCRIPTION : $2.00 per year. CANADA— $3.00 per year. FOREIGN- $4. 00 per year. HOW TO BUY AND SELL CANNED FOODS. 223 . . . ILLUSTRATIONS . . . OPPOSITE PAGE. (uhn A. Lee, the Author 6 A Scene in Baltimore 22 View at Canners' Convention 22 Ex-Presidents of Associations 23 A Display of Canned Tomatoes 54 Scene in a New York State Factory 54 Booth at Minnesota Canners' Meeting 55 Attractive Window Displays 70 A Swimming Pool for Factory Employees 71 A Class in Domestic Science 71 Outside arid Inside Window Displays 102 Scenes in Meat Packing Establishments 103 A Novel Window and Neat Inside 135 A Load of Salmon for the Canneries 150 Scene in a New York State Cannery 151 Sealing Meat Cans Under Vacuum 151 Tomato Label as Recommended by N. C. A 182 Corn Label as Recommended by N. C. A 183 A . . . ADVERTISERS . . . Libby, McNeill & Libby 209 Calvert Lithographing Co ,. 216 The C. M. Hilliard Co 211 W. W. Bradford 211 Illinois Canning Co 212 Stevens Brothers Co 212 Wisconsin Pea Canners Co 213 Fredonia Preserving Co 214 Webster-Butterfield Co 214 American Can Company 215 Thomas Pineapple Co 216 The H. J. McGrath Company 216 Lee Brokerage Company 217