O' ^x. 3 1924 091 302 327 The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924091302327 In compliance with current copyright law, Cornell University Library produced this replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1992 to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. 2001 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY SOME QUEER AMERICANS AhJD OTHER STORIES irilusttated Z\it XKIlerner Compani? NEW YORK AKRON, OHIO CHICAGO 1899 Copyright, 1899, BY THE WERNER COMPANY SOME QUEER AMERICANS. THE queerest people in this country, I fancy, live down in the southern part of the Blue Ridge where that magnificent range of nibuntains passes through the northern parts of both Carolinas and of Georgia. Even their houses are small and queer, and all their tools and machinery of the most primitive description. The farm-houses through the mountains are made of logs, and, as the weather is not usually very cold, the chinking of mud and chips between the logs is very likely to fall out and be only half replaced, so that in the storms of winter, they must be comfortless abodes; but, as I said, the cold comes mainly in the shape of sudden storms after which there is a warm spell. You remember, that when the stranger asked Kit, the famous "Arkansas Traveller," why he didn't SOME QUEER AMERICANS. patch the hole in his roof, he answered " that it had been so all-fired rainy he couldn't." " But why don't you now that it doesn't rain ? " " Because now it don't leak I " cried Kit triumph- antly, and went on with his fiddling. Well, that is a very good example of the spirit which builds these houses and tries to keep them — not in repair exactly, but at least upright. I am speaking of the ordinary farm-houses in the mountains. Now and then you will see more snug and pretentious ones, but not often even among men who own several hundred acres of land and a large number of cows, horses and sheep. Sometimes they buijd two log huts pretty close together, and roof over the space between, making an open hall-way or store-shed, where saddles, and dried fruit are hung, and where all sorts of things are placed out of the rain or sun. In nearly every case, too, the roof of the front side of the house is continued out into a broad shed, where benches are placed, and half the household work is done. I have often seen the loom upon which they wove their homespun clothes filling up half the. space in this broad porch, and shaded by masses of morning 1& SOME QUEER AMERICANS. glory, Virginia creeper or columbine. A low log house with one of these long-roofed porches reminds one of a man with a slouched hat pulled down over his eyes. Whether the house is large 'or small ; such as I have described or better than that ; you will be sure to see the chimney wholly on the outside. It stands at the end of the house, and is a huge pile of stone set in mortar or perhaps only a conglomerate of sticks and stones and mud, half as wide as the house itself at the base, and then narrowing somewhat to the sumn.it six or eight feet above the gable. The great summer house of Mr. John C. Calhoun, the famous senator who died about twenty years ago, has two of these big outside chimneys made of brick ; and this mansion was considered a very grand one in its day. If you should go inside — and the women and children are very hospitable to strangers — you would find little evidence of what we in the north call com- fort. There will be one large room, serving as sit- ting-room, dining-room and kitchen, nearly one whole side of which will be given up to the vast fireplace SOME QUEER AMERICANS. which is hollowed into the broad chimney". On the opposite side from the fire, perhaps, will be a little bedroom partitioned off, but often not, and the only other room in the house will be the rough boarded attic overhead, reached by a ladder. Lathing and plastering are hardly known outside the few villages, and carpets are still more rare. A bedstead or two, some splint-bottomed home-made chairs, as straight- backed and uncomfortable as possible, a rough table and some benches complete the furniture. Stoves are not yet known to the mountaineers. They cling to the old-fashioned way of cooking at the open fire- ■ place, hanging the iron pot in which they boil their food over the fire upon a swinging iron arm fixed in the side of the chimney and called a " crane ; " or if they want to roast a spare-rib of beef or pork, hang- ing that by a hook upon t^e crane, and steadily turn- ing it round until it is evenly done. Another favorite dish is the hoe-cake or corn- dodger, which is a batter-cake of corn-meal baked before the open fire, or in the bottom of the iron pot. Wheat flour is almost unknown in some of these mountain districts, cornmeal and sorghum molasses SOME QUEER AMERICANS. whoUy taking its place. The mills where it is ground are the most.picturesque and seemingly useless affairs. Every mile or so through these rough hills there comes tumbling down a clear and rapid stream, so that water-power is plenty enough for each man to have his own mill, and most of them are essentially home-made. I saw one over near the sources of the Chestatee which from the outside looked far more ■like a heap of old drifted logs than anjrthing else. The man who ran it built the whole affair himself, with only an axe, a saw and a two-inch auger for tools. The entire nlnning-gear was wooden, yet this mill had stood many years and ground all the com of the neighborhood. Such machinery is slow and weak of course, but the people who use it have plenty of time. They can't understand the hurry and anxiety to save time which characterize their more thrifty neighbors who live in the wofld instead of alongside of it. A boy who was not bom in the mountains, and was used to livelier motions, took some com to one of these Georgia mills to be ground not long ago, suc- ceeded in waking the miller up, getting the wheel in SOME QUEER AMERICANS. motion and his grist in the hopper. Then, expecting a long delay, he wandered off. But when he came back his meal was not half ready and he became im- patient. "My chickens — and thar ain't but two of 'em either — would eat meal faster'n yer mill' 11 grind it ! " "How long could they keep it up?" asked the miller. "Until they starved to death," replied the smart boy. This is the only boy, however, whom I ever heard - complain of the slowness of life there, for none of them are accustomed to anything faster, except when they are on horseback. Then the young chaps make the road fly from under them, and ride their fine horses with great spirit. On horseback is the usual method of travel, indeed, for the roads over the mountains are exceedingly rough, and to many farms there is hardly any road at all for wheels. One day we were riding gayly along on a couple of the excellent saddle-horses that are so common among these hills, when we came to the banks of the Etowah river. There was no bridge, and the road SOME QUEER AMERICANS. led right down to the low banks, and through the amber-clear water we could see the tracks of the wagons which had crossed before us. I had heard of the Etowah many times as one of the most beauti- ful rivers of Georgia, and I am glad to pass the rep- utation along. I remembered, also, that in place of the beads of wood, soapstone and various sorts of shell which are dug up as the remains of some Indian girl's necklace, or red man's earring, on the banks of this river beads of pure gold had been found. The Indians here were rich — they had golden ornaments instead of shell-wampum ; but their gold proved their ruin, for the poor Cherokees were driven away as soon as their wealth was discovered and white men hastened to wash the sands of this troubled river. But I did'not set out to describe the gold mines, but only to show why the Etowah particularly interested me, and why I was glad to find it equal to its praise. However, I was not given much time for quiet delight. On the bank, by the side of the road, sat two lank and rough-looking Georgians with scowls on their faces. As we trotted near they rose up and came to meet us, while one sung out : SOME QUEER AMERICANS, " Say, mister, can't yer set weuns acrost tha' ? Weem ben waitin' hyar I reckon about two hours, and them lazy fellars " — pointing over to where half a dozen men lay stretched out in the sun, smoking, with a small boat drawn up on the beach — " wouldn't pay no 'ten- tion to our yellin'. Just let go o' your stirrup will you ? " Evidently he did not propose to lose this chance, for before I could move my foot he had ptiUed away the stirrup, seized the cantle of the saddle and swung himself behind me, astride my surprised horse. The other man did the same thing by my friend, and there we were, captured by the long arms that reached easily all round our wafsts, and had several inches to spare. " Get up," my passenger shouted, digging his heels into my nag's flanks in a way that started him into the water with a very sudden splash, and on we went. The river was pretty deep in the middle, but we picked up our feet and got safely across to where the smokers grinned at the trouble their lazy discourtesy had forced upon.us, as at a good joke. Then my man skipped off to the ground, and sliding his hand into a ragged pocket, asked with a whine : GRIST-MILL ON THE CHESTATEE. SOME QUKER AMERICANS. " What do you charge ? " I doubt if he had a penny about him, for he seemed greatly relieved when I -very quickly assured him he was welcome to his ferriage. "Do you know who those fellows were?" asked my companion, as we cantered up the gravelly hill ; " my man told me that they were both preachers." " Preachers ! " I said. " I took them for moon- shiners at the very least." But now and then a vehicle so strange as- to bring a laugh upon the faces of even the neighbors will come down from the backwoods. The cart will have only two- large heavy wheels, and these alone of all its parts will be shop-made. The massive axle-tree, and pole or shafts and the rough box were made at home — perhaps wholly chopped out with an axe and fastened together with wooden pins. You must not expect to see a horse or a span of horses drawing this odd, unpainted cart — if the owner has horses, he probably considers them worthy of the saddle only but oxen, or an ox and cow, or only One of either sex ; I heard, indeed, of one case where a cow and a donkey were hitched up together, but that was SOME QUEER AMERICANS. certainly extraordinary. A single cow in the traces makes the funniest picture, I think. The harness will be partly leather, partly rope, perhaps eked out with twisted bark, and from the horns a single thin rope goes back to the driver, who can thus keep his A MOUNTAIN CONVEYANCE. beast awake by frequent jerks. Sometimes when the mountaineer and his wife go to market they place a couple of splint chairs in the cart to sit on, like a small edition of the celebrated Florida "gondola," but as a rule ther« is no seat — to make oiie perma- nently would be altogether too much trouble^ — and 1» A LIFT OVER THE FORD. SOME QUEER AMERICANS. the man and his family all huddle together in the bottom of the jolting box. Until lately these mountain people made nearly all the clothes they wore. They had hand-looms which they built themselves, and it was the occupation of the women at all spare moments to spin the flax or the wool, to dye the yarn and weave the cloth. These looms are just the same rough picturesque old machines that used to be seen all over the country before the Revolution, but which now exist only in some out of the way comers, like this Blue Ridge region. Before the year's weaving begins the whole house presents a gay appearance, for from every peg and place where they can be hung depend brightly colored hanks of yarn ready for the loom. The ordinary dress of the men now is this tough homespun dyed butternut color ; nearly all the bed- linen and under-clothing, also, of the mountain peo- ple, is still made by them. But the women's calico dresses are bought at the village store and made after very wonderful patterns. The only head dress is the universal Shaker sun-bonnet. On Sundays, however, if some travelling preacher happens along and holds SOME QUEER AMERICANS. service in the tumble down meeting-house at the four comers, you will see black store clothes of ancient make, while the gayest of ribbons and flaunting feathers bedeck the red-cheeked and happy-hearted lassies. " But this happens only once in four weeks or so, for the neighborhoods are too thinly settled and poor to support a steady minister. Though so far behind the times in all that seems civilized and comfortable, though so ignorant of what is going on in the great world outside of their blue, beautiful moun- tains, and so utterly un- learned, these moun- tain people are warm- hearted, generous, independent in thought and faithful to a friend. They know that they are strong of frame, and have a profound A MOUNTAIN LASS. contempt for those who live outside in the lowlands, even for those who SOM£ QUEER AMERICANS. live anyyfhere in towns, of the ways of which they know and care nothing at all. What is a man good for, they wonder, who can't ride a wild colt, or follow easily the trail of a wolf, or even track a bee to its tree? Even the women regard the men of the lower country as effeminate. A hunt- ing party from South Carolina were up at Mt. Jonah one day, -virhen they found themselves being greatly laughed at by a young woman there, who proposed to take thfe largest of them on her shoulders and then run a foot-race ; she said she could beat them all, thus weighted. On another occasion this same girl was seen coming out of a gorge with a rifle in her hand, her sleeves rolled up and her arms covered with blood. Upon being questioned she carelessly re- plied thatshe'd "killed a bar jest beyant the Terapin ! " Their ignorance of town ways has been the source of much amusement to city people when occasionally some of the mountain folks stray down to Atlanta or Greenville. There never were any rustics so ru- ral, I believe. It is laughable merely to look at them. What would excite our respect for its strength and honesty on some wild hill-top, only makes them SOME QUEER AMERICANS. doubly ridiculous in the city's strange streets. A good story has come down from the old days before railroads, on this point. A large party of "Hard-shell Baptists " from the Blue Ridge went down to Augusta, in wagons, one August, to buy supplies. While there, one of the brethren lost his head through drinking a glass of brandy which had been mixed with ice and sugar until it was very delicious. On his return home he was dealt with by the church. He freely acknowl- edged the fault, but said that he had been deceived by the " sweetnin'." The church council thereupon forgave him easily the wrong of being drunk, but ex- pelled him for the lie he told about having ice in his tumbler, in midsummer, when everybody knew it was colder upon the mountains than down at Augusta, yet there was no ice ! But little by little this old, charmingly ignorant and simple mountain people, are being modernized by the running of railways past, if not through, their moun- tains, and the increased number of visitors that go to see their bold crags and lovely valleys. The old men and women still cling to their old ways. "Tars SOME QUEER AMERICANS. like 'twould take a power to change me," one dear old lady said to me. But the boys and girls are get- ting more " peart," are anxious to learn and see, and are not afraid of a little change. When the Pied- mont Air Line proposed to put a branch back into the hills toward the gold diggings atound Dahlonega, I heard a mountain family discussing it. The daughter and pride of the household, a gushing damsel of seventeen, put in her opinion : "Uncle Jim saays if he was to see one of them railroads a cummin' he'd leave the world and take a saplin'. Dad saays he'd just lie right down flat on the yearth. But I want 'em to come. I'd just set right down on a basket of cohn turned ovah, and clap my hands. I ain't afraid." Then she caught me making a note, as she thought, and instantly begged me to stop. "Some of these yere folks are right foolish," she said, half ashamed, " and maybe you'll make a heap . of fun outen 'em ; but you must brush 'em up a powerful lot. You musn't give 'em too much of their nat'l appearance." Well, I hope I haven't ! BOY-DIVERS IN THE RED SEA. T TERE we are at last, Mr. Ker," says the captain, ■■■-■- as we cast anchor oS the coast of Arabia, a little after sunset, about two-thirds down the Red Sea. •' It's too dark to make out much to-night, but you'll See a rare sight when you come on deck to-morrow morning." The worthy captain's mention of "coming on deck " is doubtless from force of habit, for neither he nor I have been anywhere 6ut on deck for more than a week, except perhaps to look for something which we have left below. Most of my time is spent in the rigging, where what little wind there is may generally be met with; and our table-cloth is spread on the "after-hatch," while our arrangements for going to bed consist merely of tiirowing a blanket on the deck, BOY-DIVERS IN THE RED SEA. and stretching ourselves upon it, undisturbed save by an occasional scamper of two or three frolicsome rats over our faces. When I awake the next morning, I find the cap- tain's- promise amply made good. The sun is just rising, and under its golden splendor the broad blue sea stretches westward as far as eye can reach, every ripple tipped with living fire. On the other side ex- tends a sea of another kind — the gray, unending level of the great Arabian desert, melting dimly into the warm dreamy sky. In front, the low white wall of a Turkish fort stands out like an ivory carving against the hot brassy yellow of the sand-hills that line the shore ; while all around it are the little cabins of mud-plastered wickerwork that compose the Arab village, looking very much- like hampers left behind by some monster picnic. Here and there, through the light green of the shallower water along the shore, a flash of dazzling white, keen and narrow as the edge of a sword, marks the firesence of the dangerous coral-reefs among which we have been picking our way for the last three days, with the chance of run- ning aground at any moment. BOY-DIVERS IN THK RED SEA. "You were right, captain," say I, as the burly skipper rises and stretches his brawny arms, like a bear awaking from its winter nap. " This is a sight worth seeing, indeed." "Ah, this ain't what I meant," chuckles the cap- tain; "the best o' the show's to come yet. Look over yonder — there, just 'twixt the reef and the shore. D'ye see anything in the water ? " "Well, I think I see something swimming — sharks, I suppose." " Sharks, eh ? Well, land-shaxks you might call 'em, p'raps. Take my glass and try again." The first look through the glass works a startling change. In a moment the swarm of round black spots which I have ignorantly taken for the backs of sharks, are turned into faces — the faces of Arab children, and (as I perceive with no little amazement) of very young children too, some of the smallest be- ing apparently not more than five or six years old! Our vessel is certainly not less than a mile from the shore, and the water, shallow as it is, is deep enough at any point to drown the very tallest of these adven- turous little " water-babies ; " yet they are evidently BOY-DIVERS IN THE RED SEA. making for the ship, and that, too, at a speed that will soon bring them alongside of her. " Are they really coming all this way out without resting?" ask I. " Bless you, that's nothing to an Arab ! " laughs the captain ; "these little darkies are as much at home in the water as on land. I've heard folks talk a good deal of the way the South Sea Islanders can swim ; buti've seen as good swimming here as ever I saw there." And now, as the Lilliputian swimmers draw nearer, we begin to hear their shrill cries and elfish laughter; and now they are close enough for their little brown faces, and glittering teeth, and beady black eyes, to be easily distinguished; and now one final stroke of their lean sinewy arms carries them alongside, and the blue water swarms with tiny figures, looking up and waving their hands so eagerly that one might almost expect to hear them call out, " Shine, boss ? " and see them produce a brush and a pot of blacking. But instead of that, there is a universal chorus of "Piastre, Howadjil" (a penny, my lord!) "Chuck 'em a copper, and you'll see something good ! " says the captain. BOY-DIVKRS IN THE RED SEA. I rummage the few remaining pockets of my tattered white jacket, and at last unearth a Turkish piastre (S cts.) which I toss into the water. Instantly the smooth bright surface is dappled with a forest of tiny brown toes, all turning upward at once, and down plunge the boy-divers, their supple limbs glancing through the clear water like a shoal of fish. By this time nearly all the crew are looking over the side, and encouraging the swimmers with lusty shouts ; for, used, as Jack is to all sorts of queer spec- tacles, this is one of which he seems never to tire. " There's one of 'em got it ! " "No, he ain't I" "Yes, he has — I see him a-comin' up with it!" "And there's the others a-tryin' to take it from him — hold tight. Sambo 1 " Sure enough, the successful diver is surrounded by three or four piratical comrades, who are doing their best to snatch away the hard-won coin ; but he sticks to it like a man,. and as he reaches the surface, holds it up to us triumphantly, and then pops it into his mouth — the only pocket he has got. BOy-DIVERS IN THE RED SEA. But this is a sad mistake on his part. In a moment a crafty companion swims up behind him, and tickles him under the chin. As his mouth opens, out drops the coin into his assailant's hand, from whom it is instantly snatched by some one else ; and a regular bear-fight ensues in the water, which splashes up all around them like a fountain-jet, while their shouts and laughter make the air ring. " Aren't they afraid of sharks ? " ask I of the cap? tain, who has just increased the confusion tenfold by throwing another copper into the very midst of the screaming throng. "Not they — they make too much row for any shark to come near them. Sharks are mighty easy scared, for all they're so savage. You'll never catch 'em coming too near a steamer when she's goin' — the fiappin' of the screw frightens 'em away. See, there's two of 'em comin' along now, and you'll just see how much the boys'll care for 'em." And, indeed, the sudden uprising of those gaunt black fins, piercing the smooth water as with an un- expiected stab, seems to produce no effect whatever upon these fearless urchins, who paddle about aj un- BOY-DIVERS IN THE RED SEA. concerned as ever. Moreover, it soon appears that the sharks themselves have other business to attend to. A shoal of flying-fish come driving past, glisten- ing like rainbows in the dazzling sunshine as they leap out of the water and fall back again. Instantly one of the "sea-lawyers" dashes at the rear of the column, while the other, wheeling around its front, heads back - the fugitives into his comrade's open jaws ; and in this way the two partners contrive to make a very respectable " haul." But at this moment the garrison-boat is seen putting off from the shore, with one of the Pasha's officers in the stem-sheets. At sight of the well-known official flag, our water-babies scatter like wild-fowl, and the next moment all the little black heads are seen bob- bing over the shining ripples on their way back to the shore. THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. You have all heard of Rameses the Great, whose noble presence looms up from the black night of ages, majestic, gracious, clear cut, and real almost as the monarchs of to-day. Rameses mei Amoun, as his people delighted to call him, meaning Rameses beloved of Ammon, the great god of Egypt, was bom more than three thousand years ago, in Thebes, the capital of the kingdom. His father was a pharaoh, Seti I., and his mother was the queen Livea. Old Greek histo- rians tell marvellous stories concerning his birth. They claim that one of the gods announced to Seti in a dream that the tiny babe should become the sovereign of the whole earth. It is clear that the ambition of the father prompted him to do all in his power to secure the fulfilment of this prophecy. THK BOY KING OF EGYPT. With a royal liberality, he ordered that all of the male children of the realm born on the same day with the crown prince should be brought to the palace. Here nurses were provided, and they were reared with and educated like the young prince in all respects. The king believed that a company of fel- low students and playmates from childhood would be bound to him in manhood by the ties of affection, the best and strongest of all. They were " skilled in ail the learning of the Egyptians," and also trained, to feats of bodily skill, strength and endurance. Thus they grew up a brave company of hardy young war- riors, well fitted to obey and to command. The stone pictures of Rameses on the monuments show that he was regarded as a king even in infancy, and received the homage of the people in his cradle. There are sculptures of him as a mere infant, with the finger to the mouth, and yet wearing the " pshent," or double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. Others are in child's dress and with the braided sidelock of hair, but having the Urceus, or Asp, the symbol of r'oyalty, above his head. These may be seen at the museum of the Louvre in Paris. THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. The inscriptions give us an address of liis subjects to him after he had succeeded to the throne : " When you were yet a very little child, wearing the braided hair, no monument was made without you. You com- manded armies when you were ten years old." Seti, his father, died when he was but fifteen years old, and after the customary seventy days of mourn- ing for the king had passed and hi%^splendid tomb was sacredly sealed, Rameses II. became the boy king of the mighty land of the Nile. The first public acts of his reign show a knowledge of human nature beyond his years. He appointed his young companions the generals of his armies ; he distributed among them lands and large gifts, and by every means sought to strengthen the bands of their loyalty to himself. For the people at large he for- gave all fines and penalties, and opened the doors of all the crowded prisons. In this way he secured the loving faithfulness of his subjects at home, and of the great armies he was to lead in long victorious marches through an enemy's country. Does it not read like a romance, that some of his boldest expeditions and bravest conquests were accomplished while he was THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. Still under twenty years of age ? Is he not a verita- ble boy king ? Herodotus tells us that after Ethiopia and all the nations of Asia were subdued, he passed into Europe and conquered a few wild tribes of bar- barians. After each victory he erected stela, or tablets, inscribed with his name and that of his coun- try. Herodotus saw three of these tablets, and they have been found by travellers in our day. Two of them are in Palestine. Each is the figure colossal of a warrior, carved on a solid wall of rock, standing with spear in one hand and bow in the other. On the breast is the inscription, " It is I who have con- quered this country by the strength of my arm." All of his victories are also recorded on the stone walls of temples, with marvellous detail. The painted sculpture shows the wealth of tribute he exacted : gold, ivory, ebony, and timber for building his ships of war, the droves of dusky captives running before his royal chariot, and the gods bestowing honors and blessing on their well-beloved son. No monarch of earth has left a more imperishable record on the pages of history than Rameses the Great. He was the Sesostris of the Greeks, their greatest hero. He THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. was the pharaoh whose reign was the golden age of power and splendor In Egypt. He was one of the long line who so cruelly oppressed the Israelites. Many of the magnificent monuments of his reign were builded entirely by subjugated peoples who were prisoners of war. This fact is carefully noted on tablets, and among them the " bricks without straw " of the captive Hebrews are largely represented. He is said to be the father of the princess who found the Jewish infant in his frail cradle of reeds. If this be true it was at his imperial court that Moses became " skilled in all the learning of the Egyptians." The splendid achievements of his reign attest their won- derful knowledge of the arts and sciences. On a stelce, or tablet, deciphered jointly by distin- guished English and French orientalists, is a detailed account of the boring of an artesian well by the special decree of Rameses. An embassage, consisting of the chief dignitaries of a distant province, arrived at the court and begged an audience with the king. They petitioned for a spring to supply water to the slaves and animals employed in bringing gold from a far region over a parched desert road, and who THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. they said were dying of thirst on the long journey. His majesty graciously had compassion, on these his humble subjects, and in obedience to his royal mandate, water rose to the height of twenty feet on the road to Okan. The exact height was decreed by his own lips, and the dry and thirsty land was re- freshed. The great canal from the Nile to the Red Sea — one of the triumphant successes of our own century — was first accomplished by the engineers of Rameses meiAmoun. The great temple palaces of Luxor and Karnak, the wonderful rock-hewn temples at Aboo Simbel and the Rameseum — or Memno- nium, as it has been wrongly called — are among the stupendous monuments of his reign, the latter being his splendid tomb. Its walls are covered with painted sculptures telling the wonders of his life. Chief among these is an episode in one of his battles with the Khetas, a powerful enemy, which commemorates the great personal bravery of the king. It is a fa- vorite subject of the sculptures of his time. It is twice given in the Rameseum and appears again three times in the principal temples that perpetuate the glories of his long reign of sixty-eight years. THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. He is represented in his chariot, furiously driven by his master of the horse into the midst of the foe, and although surrounded by the archers of the hostile ranks, he is dealing death with each arrow that flies from his strong bow, while he seems to bear a charmed life. The picture story of this dashing, reckless courage is curiously confirmed by a papyrus or Egyptian book in the British museum. This is an historical poem commemorating the battle, and writ- ten at the time by a court poet named Penta-ur. It was held in high honor by his countrjrmen, and was deemed worthy of a place on one of the walls of the temple palace of Kamak, where it is graven entire. It says," Six times the king pierced his way into the army of the vile Khetas, six times did he enter their midst . . . When my master of horse saw that I remained surrounded by many chariots he faltered and his heart gave way for fear; a mighty terror seized his limbs, and he cried, 'My good master, generous king, halt in thy course and let us save the breath of our lives. What can we do, O Rameses mei Amoun, my good master ?' And thus did his majesty reply: ' Have courage ! strengthen thy heart, THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. oh my comrade ! . . . Ammon would not be a god did he not make glorious my countenance in the pres- ence of the countless legions of the foe.' " The portrait statues of Rameses are innumerable, from the delicately carved statuette to the huge frag- ments of the Colossus of the Rameseum, which was thirteen yards in height. It would seem that his majestic figure and gracious face can never be for- gotten by the race of men. There are sphinxes of rose-colored granite with the body of a lion and the noble head of Rameses. This combination, so familiar in Egypt, typified the union of physical and intellectual strength by the lion and the man. The far-famed sitting statues in front of the " Specs," or excavated rock temple at Aboo Simbel, are the most tremendous of these portraits. Nothing even in Egypt compares with these stone giaiits for grandeur and power. Their measureless, voiceless, eternal strength oppresses the beholder with a sense of utter insignificance in their mighty presence. In the great halls which pierce the solid mass of the mountain, gigantic standing figures, with folded arms and the calm, placid face of Rameses, seem to uphold • THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. the everlasting hills. In another temple be is found seated between two of the gods of the land as their equal in the triad. In the rock temples of Aboo Sim- bel we finfd one of those strangely beautiful " touches of nature ' that "make the world akin." By the side of the greater one, guarded by its gigantic wardens, there is another and smaller one, called the "Speos of Athor," the goddess of love and beauty, and the " Grotto of Purity." It was built by Rameses for the sole use of his royal wife, called "Nofre-ari," "the good companion." The other temples of the country preserve the records of many kings. The one at Aboo Simbel is sacred to the glory and greatness of Rameses mei Amoun. It is by this one, then, that, he builded the chapel for his queen, On the wonderful front wall of the Portico are por trait statues of the royal lady and her children, and over them the legend, " Rameses, to the royal spouse, Nofre-ari, whom he loved." The adamantine stone has safely brought down to us the tender grace of this dedication. Travellers tell us that every detail of ornament in the grottoes, the pillars and their flower-like capitals, THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. the sculpture and frescoes, are all in some way con- nected with the beloved wife. As a token of her grateful recognition of this knightly devotion, there is on the inner wall of the chapel, after the cartouche of Rameses, this answering legend : " His royal spouse, who loves him, Nofre-ari, the great mother, has con- structed this resting-place in the grotto of purity.'" Ampbre, a French traveller, tells us this in his letters from Egjrpt, and adds, " The queen is charming, and no one wearies of meeting her likeness everywhere, and which Pharaoh never wearies of repeating." Are not they beautiful, these records of an imperishable love > They cause the dim dusky ages that separate us from the time of Rameses to vanish, and we seem to feel the heart-throbs of the man beneath the strange royal robes of the Egyptian king. In the great ruin of the Rameseum, which' a French scholar calls "an historical museum" of the reign of Rameses, near the colossus of himself was one nearly as large of his mother, Livea, with a triple crown, showing that she was the daughter, wife and mother of a king. In the same place were two stat- ues of his mother and daughter, bequeathed to the THE BOY KING OF EGYPT, world together, as they were associated in the love of the pharaoh. In another temple, where huge caryatides of himself supported the pylon or entrance tower, were the statues of his fourteen daughters. Their names have come down to us, but do not sound very musical to our modem ears. By their crowns we know that five of them became queens. In all of the sculptures of his battles and marches, he is accompanied by some of his twenty-three sons. Their names are given, and they are known as princes by the royal~ dress, and by the braided and jewelled lock of hair which they wore during the lifetime of the king their father. By all of these touching records of the home affections we know that the wonderful baby king and boy war- rior was in his manhood a tender, loving son, husband and father; and this knowledge adds a purer, brighter lustre even to bis splendid fame. That he reigned sixty-eight years is a fact so fully confirmed by data that it may be accepted as truth. Until the death of his eldest son, Sha- em-Jom, the crown prince, beloved by the peo- ple and dearest to his father's heart, the history 20 THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. of these long years is one undimmed by misfor- tune. This occurred thirteen years before his own death. From this time the momuments give only hints of the frequent deaths of his children and of the feeble- ness and blindness of his last years. But it is not strange that, after eighty years of his stirring life as king and conqueror, the common lot of all should overtake even the great Rameses. It is a pleasant finish to the old story to know that one daughter of his winter years comforted him with tender, filial love till the last of earth, and he went to his magnificent completed tomb full of years and honors. No mortal ever reached a dizzier height of fame. After more than three thousand years, in a far land unknown to his time and among a race then undreamed of, his placid, majestic face is familiar to every student. One of our most ambitious young artists could find no worthier subject for his can- vas, in the last salon, than a portrait of Rameses II. Very recently I saw in our "fair city by the sea," the Thebes of our country, a magnificent mansion, the library of which was an old Egyptian THE BOY KING OF EGYPT. hall reproduced. It abounded in lotus flowers, obelisks, sphinxes, winged globes and sacred bulls. Over the warm-hued mantel, like the red porphyry of the Nile country, was a richly framed portrait of he- roic size. The gracious face, so calm and strong, the straight features, dark beard and royal head-dress of Egypt, proclaimed a strange fact. Rameses the Great, patron of libraries and learning 1400 B. C, is chosen as the guardian genius of a library in our young western capital after three thousand two hun- dred and seventy-seven years. I must stop before you all grow gray and wrinkled with groping so far back through the long night of ages past. But you will not soon forget the story of the boy king of Egypt. A CHILD IN FLORENCE. CHAPTER I. WE lived in that same Casa Guidi from whose windows Elizabeth Barrett Browning's poet- eyes saw what she afterward put into glowing verse. Casa Guidi is a great pile of graystone, a pile of many windows which give upon the Via Maggio and a little piazza, as the! squares in Florence are called. Consequently it is lighter and brighter than are many of the houses in Florence, where the streets are nar- row and the houses lof^. According to almost universal custom, Casa Guidi was divided into half a dozen different apartments, occupied by as many families. Ours was on the sec- ond floor, on the side of the house overlooking the A Child in Florence. piazza, on which stood the church of San Felice. The pleasantest room in our apartment, as I thought, was a room in which I passed many hours of an ail- ing childhood J a room which I christened "The Gal- lery," because it was long and narrow, and was hung with many cheerful pictures. It opened into a little boudoir at one end, and into the saltm at the other. The walls of gallery and boudoir were frescoed gayly with fruits and flowers and birds. Here the sun streamed in all through the long, mild, Florentine winters j here I would lie on my couch, and count the roses on the walls, and the birds, and the apricots, and listen to the cries in the streets ; and, if a procession went by, huny to the window and watch it pass, and stay at the window un- til I was tired, when I would totter back to my couch, and my day-dreams, and my drawing, and my verse- making, and my attempts at studying. I was fired with artist-ambitions at the age of ten ; and what wonder, surrounded as I was by artists liv- ing and dead, and by their immortal works. It seemed to me then that one musl put all one's im- pressions of sight and form into shape. But I did not develop well. Noses proved a stumbling-block, which I never overcame, to my attaining to eminence in figure-sketching. A Child in Florence, The picture that I admired most in those days was one of Judith holding up the gory head of Holofemes, in the Pitti Gallery of Paintings. I was seized with a longing to copy it, on my return from my first visit to the Gallery. I seated myself, one evening, before a sheet of drawing-paper, and I tried and tried ; but the nose of Holofernes was too much for me. All that I could accomplish was something that resembled an enlarged interrogation mark, and recalled Cliinese art, as illustrated on fans. I was disappointed, dis- gusted — but, above all, surprised: it was my first intimation that " to do " is not " as easy as 'tis to know what 'twere good to do." In the midst of my futile efforts, a broad-shouldered, bearded man was announced, who having shaken hands with the grown-ups, came and seated himself beside- the little girl, and her paint-box and pencils and care-worn face. " O Mr. Hart," I cried, " do make this nose for me! " Whereupon he made it, giving me many valuable suggestions, meanwhile, as to the effect produced by judicious shading. Still, I was discouraged. It was borne in upon me that this was not my branch of art. "Mr. Hart," I said, "I think I would like to make noses your way." A Child in Florence. "Would you? Then you shall. Come to my studio to-morrow, and you shall have some clay and a board, and try what you can do." ' So the next day I insisted upon availing myself of this invitation. Mr. Hart was then elaborating his machine for taking portraits in marble, in his studio in the upper part of the city. He had always several busts on hand, excellent likenesses. His workmen would be employed in cutting out the marble, while he molded his original thought out of the plastic clay. There has always been a fascination to me in statuary. Mr. Ruskin tells us that form appealed to the old Greeks more forcibly than color. That was in the youth of the race; possibly, the first stage of art- development is an appreciation of form ; in my case, I have not passed into the maturer stage yet. The rounded proportions, curves, and reality of a statue appeal to me as no painting ever did. Nevertheless, I made no greater progress in mold- ing than in sketching. I made my hands very sticky j I used up several pounds of clay ; then I relinquished my hopes of becoming a sculptor. I found it more to my taste to follow Mr. Hart around the rooms, to chatter with the workmen, to ask innuinerable ques- tions about the " Invention." It has been suggested that it was to this invention A Child in Florence, of Mr. Hart's that Mrs. Browning referred when she wrote o£ — "Just a shadow on a wall," from which could be taken — " The measure of a man. Which is the measure of an angel, saith The apostle." Mr. Hart wore the apron and the cap that sculptors aifect, as a protection from the fine, white dust that the marble sheds : generally, too, an ancient dressing- gown. Costumes in Bohemia, the native land of artists, are apt to be unconventional. It was a most wondrous thing to me to watch the brown clay take shapes and beauty under the sculp- tor's touch. I can still see him fashioning a wreath of grape-leaves round a Bacchante's head ; the leaves would grow beneath his hand, in all the details of tendrils, stems, veinings. It seemed to me he must be so happy, to live in this world of his own creating. I hope that he was happy, the kindly man ; he had the patience and the enthusiasm of the genuine artist, — a patience that had enabled him to surmount serious obstacles before he reached his present position. Like Powers and Kheinhart, he began life as a stoue- A Child in Florence. cutter. I wonder what dreams of beauty those three men saw imprisoned in the unhewn stone, to which they longed to give shape, before Fate smiled on them, and put them in the way of doing the best that in them lay I In spite of the fact that neither Painting nor Sculp- ture proved propitious, a great reverence and love of Art was born in me at this time. Possibly a love and reverence all the more intense, because Art became to me, individually, an unattainable thing. I remem- ber passing many hours, at this period, in what would certainly have been durance vile, had I not been fired with a lofty ambition. Mr. Edwin White was sketch- ing in a picture which called for two figures — an old man and a child. The old man was easily obtained, a beautiful professional model of advanced yeais ; but the child was not so readily found. I was filled with secret joy when it was suggested to me that / should be the required model. I was enchanted when the permission was given me to perform this impor- tant service. This was before the time of the long illness to which I referred in the beginning of this paper. The spending every morning for a week or so in Mr. White's studio implied the being excused from French verbs and Italian translations. What a happy life, I thought, to be a model 1 I envied the A Child in Florence. beautiful old patriarch with whom I was associated in this picture. Kneeling beside him, as I was in- structed to do, I thought what bliss it would be to be associated with him always, and to go about with him from studio to studio, posing for pictures. There must be an inspiration for artists in the very air of Florence. The beautiful city is filled with memorials of the past, painted and carved by the masters passed away. I suppose that artists are constantly aroused to the wish to do great things by the sight of what these others have accomplished. Then, too, the history of the past, the religion of the past, are such realities in Florence. The artist feels called upon to interpret them, not as dead fancies, but as facts. The mythology of the Greeks and Romans meets one at every turn. I, for one, was as intimately acquainted with the family history of Venus, of Ceres, of Pallas, of Persephone, as with that of Queen Elizabeth, of Catherine de Medici, oJ Henrietta Maria. Nay, I was more intimate with thu delightful elder set. The heathen gods reigned sylvanly in the Boboli Gardens, and it was there that I formed a most inti- mate personal acquaintance with them. The Boboh Gardens are the gardens of the Pitti Palace, an im- mense, unlovely pile, the memorial of the ambition A Child in Florence: of the Marquis Pitti, who reared it. He had vowed •hat he would build a palace large enough to hold in its court-yard the palace of his hated rival, the Marquis Strozzi. He was as good as his word j but in carry- ing out his designs he ruined his fortune. The vast palace, when completed, passed out of his hands into those of the Medici, then the Dukes of Florence. Afterwards it became the residence of the foreign rulers of Florence. When I remember the city, Austrian soldiers guarded the great gateway of the Pitti, and marched up and down the court-jards; and the showy white uniforms of Austrian officers were conspicuous in the ante-chambers and guard- rooms. But behind the great palace, the fair Boboli Gar- dens spread away. There was a statue of Ceres crowning a terrace, up to which climbed other terraces — an amphitheatre of terraces, in truth, from a fish- pond in the centre — which commanded the city through which the Arno flowed. Many a sunny day have we children — my sisters and I — sat at the base of this statue and gossiped about Ceres, beau- tiful Mother Nature, and her daughter, who was stolen from her by the Dark King. Further down, on a lower slope, was a statue of Pallas, with her calm, resolute face, her helmet, her spear, her owl. ,21 A Child in Florence. I remember that Millie and Eva and I were especially fond of this Pallas. I used to wonder why it was that men should ever have been votaries of Venus rather than of her. I have ceased to wonder at this, since then ; but in those days I especially criticized a statue of Venus, after the well-known Venus of Canova, which impressed me as insipid. This statue stood hard by the severe majesty of Pallas, white against a background of oleanders and laurestines. Then there was a second fish-pond, in the centre of which was an orange-island, about which tritons and mermen and mermaids were disposed. I can see their good-humored, gay — nay, some of them were even leering — faces, still. Soulless creatures these, we were well aware, and so were sorry for them. The immortal gods, of course, we credited with souls ; but these — with the wood-nymphs, and bacchantes, and satyrs, that we were apt to come upon all through tlie garden, — these we classed as only on a level a trifle higher than thart of the trees, and brooks, into which some of them had been transformed in the course of the vicissitudes of their careers. Perhaps it is because the spirit of the old religion so took possession of me in that Italian garden, that to this day the woods, and the dells, and the rocks, A Child in Florence. seem to me to be the embodied forms of living crea- tures. A Daphne waves her arms from the laurel- tree j a Clytie forever turns to her sun-lover, in the sunflower. CHAPTER II. THE two public picture galleries of Florence — the Pitti and the UfRzi — are on either side of the Arno. They are connected by a covered way, which runs along over the roofs of houses, and crosses the jewelers' bridge, so called because upon it are built the shops of all the jewelers in town, — or so it would seem at first sight. At all events, here are nothing but jewelers' shops ; small shops, such as I imagine the shops of the middle ages to have been. But in the narrow windows, and in the unostentatious show-cases, are displayed most exquisite workmanship in Florentine mosaic, in turquoise, in malakite, ex- quisite as to the quality of the mosaic and the charac- ter of the designs in which the earrings, brooches, bracelets, were made up. As a rule, however, the gold- work was inferior, and the settings were very apt to come apart, and the pins to break and bend, after a very short wear. A Child in Morerue. Sauntering across this bridge, one passes, on his way to the UfBzi, various shops in narrow streets, where the silks of Florentine manufacture are dis- played. Such pretty silks, dear girls, and so cheap ! For a mere song you may go dressed like the butter- flies, in Florence, clad in bright, sheeny raiment, spun by native worms out of native mulberry leaves. Equally cheap are the cameos, and the coral, that are brought here from neighboring Naples, and the tur- quoises, imported directly from the Eastern market, and the mosaics, inlaid of precious stones in Florence herself. So we come out upon the Piazza, or Square, of the Uffizi. The Uffizi Palace itself is of irregular form, and inclosed by loggiae, or covered colonnades. In front of the palace stands the David of Michael Angelo, in its strong beauty. Michael Angelo said of this that " the only test for a statue is the light of a public square." To this test the David has been subjected for over three hundred years, and still, in the searching light of day, stand revealed the courage and the faith and the strength of the young man who went forth to do battle with the giant, " In the name of the Lord of Hosts, the God of the armies of Israel." And who shall say to how many of us Michael Angelo does not preach, across the centu- A Child in Florence. ries, a sermon in stone, as we stand before his David? — as we recall what Giants of Doubt, of Passion, of Pride, we, too, are called upon to battle with in our day? In a square portico, or loggia, giving upon the Piazza, is a statue of Perseus, another slayer of mon- sters, or, rather, a slayer of monsters in another realm. It was this Perseus to whom Pallas gave a mirror-shield of burnished brass, whom Mercury armed with an adamantine scythe, giving him also wings on his feet. It was this Perseus who slew the Gorgon Princess Medusa. In the statue, the fatal head of Medusa, with its stony stare, is held aloft by the war- rior, who is trampling upon the headless trunk. This head had, in death as in life, the power of turning many men to stone, and was thus made use of by Perseus against other enemies of his. The subject of the stony-eyed Gorgon possessed, apparently, a curious fascination for artists. There is a famous head painted on wood by Leonardo da Vinci, besides this statue by Benvenuto Cellini, in the Uffizi. How, as a child, I used to puzzle over the strange fable in both statue and picture 1 But, since then, I have had experience of Gorgon natures in real life ; natures that chilled and repressed, stupefied all with whom they came in contact ; and I wonder less at the A Child in Florence. fable, and I pass the word on to you, that you may know, when unsympathetic surroundings chill your heart and blunt your feelings, and subdue your better self, that you are being haunted by Da Vinci's very Medusa, by Cellini's very Medusa, snaky locks, fixed eyes, impassive deadness. Into the great Uffizi Palace : up the wide marble stairway, into the long gallery that opens into the im- mense suite of rooms hung with pictures ; the gallery hung with pictures, too, and set with statues. How I wish I could make you see with my eyes ! How I wish I could be to you something more than a mere traveler, telling what / have seen 1 That long corridor, windows on one side, statues and pictures on the other, always seems to me like a nursery for love of art. At the far end are the quaint pictures of Giotto and Cimabue. Then the reverent, religious paintings of Fra Angelico. Oh, those sweet-faced, golden-haired angels 1 Oh, the glimpse into the land seen by faith, inhabited by shining ones I Oh, the radiance of those pictures I The gold back-grounds, the bright faces, the happy effect of them 1 The ar- tists Relieved them with all their souls, as Ruskin has said ; so they painted pictures which recall the refrain of Bernard de Cluny's Rhyme of the Celestial Country. Presently pictures by Perugino, Raphael's master, and A Child in Florence. — quite at the other end of the gallery — the portrait of Raphael, painted by himself. This picture is on an easel, and stands apart. Are you familiar with Raphael's beautiful, calm, young face ? It is a face which has passed into a proverb for beauty and serenity. A velvet cap is pushed oft" the pure brow ; the hair is long and waving ; the eyes are large and dark and abstracted. I always stood before this pict- ure as before a shrine. All the way down the gallery are statues and busts. There are the Roman emperors, far more familiar to me through their counterfeit presentments than through the pages of history. Augustus, Diocletian, Trajan : to us girls they were studies in hair-dressing, if in nothing else. Some of them with flowing locks, some with close, short curls, some with hair parted in the middle and laid in long, smooth curls, like a woman. Of such was Heliogabulus, and of such was Yitellius. One morning — soon after we came to Florence — we started off upon a quest — through the Uffizi — Millie, Eva and I, and our elders. The object of our quest was no less a goddess than she called of the Medici. I remember that we wandered down the long gallery I have described, and through room after room. It was the fancy of our mamma, and the uncle who was A Child in Florence. taking care of us all, to find their way about for them- selves. For instance : if we had been told that a certain picture, by a certain master, was to be found in a certain palace, we roamed in and out around the other pictures until the picture revealed itself Xo us. It was surprising how seldom we were deceived in this method of ours. We would pass by dozens of pict- ures by inferior artists, completely unmoved; then, suddenly, a thrilling vision of beauty would glow upon us, and we would acknowledge ourselves to be in a royal presence-chamber. Such a presence-chamber is the Tribune in the UfBzi palace. We came upon many marble Venuses before we arrived in this Tribune, a large, octagon room, with a domed ceiling, blue, flecked with gold stars; but we passed them all by — until finally we entered the reverent stillness which is kept about the Venus of Venuses. We recognized her at once. There she stood, in that silent room, the light subdued to a judicious mellowness — beautiful with the fresh, smiling beauty of perpetual youth ; beautiful with the same beauty that gladdened the heart of the Greek artist who carved her, hundreds of years ago; so many hundreds of years that the marble has in con- sequence, the rich cream-color of old ivory. In this same Tribune hangs the portrait of a beau* A Child in Florence. tiful young woman, called the Fornarina. Of her only this is known, that she was the beloved of Raphael, and that she was the daughter of a baker in Rome. Fornarina means little bakeress, or, perhaps we should say, baker-girl. But this Fornarina might be a princess. An " ox-eyed Juno " princess, dark and glowing, with a serene composure about her that one remembers as her most striking characteristic, Raphael's lady-love. Millie and I knew more about her than was ever written in books. Not relia- ble gossip — gossip of our own invention, but gossip that delighted our hearts. Other pictures by Raphael hang here, too. How distinctly I recall them. How vivid are all the works of this great painter J The critics say that one who excelled in so many things, excelled also in expression. Yes. It is this which gives to his pictures the dis- tinctness of photographs from life. They are dra- matic. They take you at once into the spirit of the scene represented. They are full of soul, and herein lies the great difference between Raphael's works and those of other schools, the Venetian, for instance. The painters of Venice aimed at effects of color; Raphael used color only in order to express a loftier thought. Are you tired of the Uiiizi ? Come with me, for a A Child in Florence. few minutes, before we go, into the Hall of Niobe. Words fail me to relate with what mingled emotions of sympathy, distress and delight we children used to haunt this hall, and examine each sculptured form in. turn. The story goes that Niobe incurred the dis- pleasure of Diana and Apollo, who wreaked their vengeance upon the mother by killing her fourteen children. At the head of the hall stands Niobe, con- vulsed with grief, vainly imploring the angry brother and sister to show compassion, and at the same time protecting the youngest child, who is clinging to her. But we feel that both intercession and protection will be in vain. On the other side of the hall are her sons and daughters. Some already pierced with arrows, stiff in death j some in the attitude of flight, some staggering to the ground. It is an easy matter for the imagination to picture the supreme moment when, be- reft of all her children, the mother's heart breaks, and she is turned to stone. The legend relates that that stone wept tears. Nor was it a difficult matter for me to take this on faith. What is more, many is the time I have planted myself before the very marble Niobe in the Uffizi, firmly expecting to see the tears flow down her cheeks. So we come out upon the streets of Florence again. A Child in Florence. Fair Florence, the narrow Arno dividing her, the pur- ple Appennines shutting her in the Arno's fertile valley. Flower-women stop us on the streets, and offer us flow- ers. Flower- women who are not as pretty as they are wont to be at fancy-dress parties ; they are apt to be heavy and mid -die -aged, i n fact, one of them, the handsomest of the band, has a scar on her La FOKNAKINA OF THC UfFIZI, AT Fl-ORENCE. face, and a tinge of romance attached to her name. It is whispered about that her lover's dagger inflicted the scar, in a fit of jealousy. Once I myself saw a look flash into her eyes, when something was said to offend her by a passer-by on the street, which sug- gested the idea that she might have used her dagger A Child in Florence. in return. It was the look of a tiger aroused. And after that I never quite lost sight of the smothered fire in those black eyes of hers, I used to wonder why I saw so few pretty faces in Florence. Moreover, how lovely the American ladies- always looked in contrast with the swarthy, heavy Tuscan women. As a rule, that is. Of course, there were plain Americans and handsome Tuscans ; but our countrywomen certainly bear off the palm for deli- cacy of feature and coloring. Still, the Tuscan peas- ant-girls make a fine show, with their broad flats of Leghorn straw j and when they are married they are invariably adorned with strings of Roman pearls about their necks. So many rows of pearls counts for so much worldly wealth. I stroll on, stopping to look in at the picture stores, or coming to an enraptured pause before a cellar-way piled up with rare and fragrant flowers, such as one sees seldom out of Florence — the City of Flowers. CHAPTER III. ONE summer we lived in a villa a short distance outside the gates of Florence. For Florence had gates in those days, and was a walled city, kept by Austrian sentinels. That was the time of the Austrian occupation. Since then, Solferino and Magenta have been fought, and the treaty of Villa- franca has been signed, and now, " Italy's one, from mountain to sea 1 " — " King Victor has Italy's crown on his head, And his flag takes all heaven with its white,, green and red." But then the Florentines bowed their necks under a hated foreign yoke, scowling when they dared at a retreating " maledetto Tedesco " (cursed German). The phrase " white, green and red " recalls to me the fire-balloons we used to send up from our villa garden, on the summer nights of long ago. We had, for our Italian tutor, an enthusiastic patriot, who had A Child in Florence. fought in the Italian ranks in '48, and who was looking forward to shouldering a musket soon again. It afforded him intense gratification to send the national colors floating out over Florence. Our villa.was built on a hill-side, commanding a fine view of the Val d'Arno, and of the City of Flowers herself, domed, campaniled, spired. The longer the voyages made by our balloons, the higher rose the spirits of our Signor Vicenzo. He regarded these airy nothings, made by his own hands, of tissue paper and alcohol, as omens of good or ill to his beloved country. I suppose he was a fair type of his countrymen intensely dramatic, with a native facility of expression. One notices this facility of expression among all classes. The Italians have an eloquent sign-language of their own, in which they are as proficient as in the language of spoken words. It is charming to see two neighbors communicating with each other across the street, without uttering a syllable, by the means of animated gestures. It seems a natural sequence that they should be a people of artists. Such long rambles as my sisters and I and our maid Assunta took, starting from the villa I Assunta was the daughter of a neighboring countryman of the better sort, who cultivated a grape vineyard and an olive field, besides keeping a dairy. We had a way 22 A Child in Florence. of happening by in the evening in time for a glass of warm milk. Assunta's mother supplied our table with milk and butter daily, moreover; butter made into tiny pats and done up daintily in grape leaves, never salted, by the way; milk put up in flasks cased in straw, such as are also used for the native wine. Was it the unfailing appetite of childhood, or was that milk and butter really superior to any I have ever tasted since ? What charming breakfasts recur to me I Semele, as we called our baker's rolls ; a golden circle of butter on its own leaf; great figs bursting with juicy sweetness ; milk. How good those figs used to taste for lunch, too when we would pay a few crazis for the privilege of helping ourselves to them off the fig-trees in some podere (orchard, vineyard), inclosed in its own stone wall, on which scarlet poppies waved in the golden sunlight, beneath the blue, blue skies. Am I waxing descriptive and dull? Well, dear girls, I wish you could have shared those days with me. Roaming about those hill-sides, my sisters and I peopled them with the creatures of our own imaginations, as well as those of other people's imaginations, to say nothing of veritable historical characters. We read and re-read Roger's Italy. Do you know that enchanting book \ Can you say by heart, as Millie, Eva and I A Child in Florenee. could, "Ginevra," and "Luigi," and "The Brides of Venice " ? I wonder if I should like that poetry now ? I loved it then. Also, I date my knowledge of Byron to that same epoch. We children devoured the de- scriptions in "Childe Harold," and absorbed "The Two Foscari," which otherwise we would perhaps have never read. Byron was the poet of our fathers and mothers ) but in these early days dramatic and narrative poetry was more intelligible than the mysti- cism of Tennyson and the Brownings, so enchanting to me now. One evening, some friends who occupied a neigh- boring villa invited mamma to be present at the read- ing of a manuscript poem by an American poet, Buchanan Read. I was permitted to go, too, and was fully alive to the dignity of the occasion. Mr. Read was making a reputation rapidly \ there was no telling what might be in store for him. The generous hand of brother artists in Florence all cheered him on his way, and accorded to him precisely that kind of sympathetic encouragement which his peculiar na- ture required. The group of interested, friendly faces in the salon at Villa Allori rises up before me as I write, on the evening when Mr. Read, occupying a central position, read aloud, in his charming, trained voice. A Child in Florence. I remember that, in the pauses of the reading, Mr, Powers, who was present, amused one or two children about Iiim by drawing odd little caricatures on a stray bit of note paper, which is, by the way, still in my possession. Doubtless Mr. Powers' reputation rests upon his statues, not his caricatures ; yet these par- ticular ones have an immense value for me, dashed off with a twinkle in the artist's beautiful dark eyes. There was also present on this occasion a beautiful young lady, for whom Mr. Read had just written some birthday verses, which he read to us, after having completed the reading of the larger manu- script. Those birthday verses have haunted me ever since, and this, although I cannot recall a word of the more ambitious poem. Mr. Powers had lived for so many years in Florence that he was by right of that, if by no other right, the patriarch of the American colony there. He and his large family were most intensely American, in spite of their long expatriation. His was emphatically an American home, as completely so as though the Arno and the Appenines had been, instead, the Mississippi and the Alleghanies. This was no doubt due to the fact that Mrs. Powers was preeminently an American wife and mother, large-hearted and warm-hearted. She never forgot the household tradi- GOING TO THE PARTY. A Child in Florence. duns of her youth. She baked mince-pies and pumpkin-pies at Christmas and Thanksgiving, and dispensed these bounties to her countrymen with a lavish hand. Then, too, the Powers lived in a house, and not- in an apartment, or, as we say, on a flat. The children ran up and down-stairs, and in and out their own yard, which lay between the dwelling-house and the studio, just as American children do. And in this genial, wholesome home an artist grew up in the second generation, A son of Mr. Powers is now making name and fame for himself in his father's profession. It has been said that the beautiful face of the eldest daughter of this family is suggested in her father's "Greek Slave." I looked up to her then with the respect which a child feels for an elder girl, "a young lady in society." I can appreciate now and admire, even more than I did then, the extreme simplicity and unconsciousness which so well accorded with her grand, classic beauty. She was the good fairy at a Christmas Tree Festival, to which all the American girls and boys in Florence were bidden, on the twenty-fifth of December. We were all presented with most exquisitely made bonhonnieres, chiefly of home manufacture. We were feasted on doughnuts which brought tears to some of ova eyes ; dear A Child in Florence. American doughnuts, that might have been fried in the land of the free. We had French candy ad libitum; but there was also on exhibition a pound or so of genuine American stick candy, such as we see by the bushel in this country, and which had been brought over from the United States by a friend recently arrived, at Mrs. Powers' special request. We examined this stick candy with patriotic enthu- siasm. We ate little bits of it, and thought it infinitely better than our candied fruits and chocolate creams. Doubtless this little incident here recalled will account for the fact that I always associate peppermint stick candy with the flag of the Union. It is an unfortur nate caprice of mind ; but, nevertheless, the national stripes always rise before me when I see these red and white sticks. I am inclined to the belief that exiles make the best patriots. We American children stood up fiercely for our own native land, whenever the question as to national superiority arose between ourselves and ■ English, French, or Italian children, — especially the English. With these we fought the Revolutionary war all over again, hotly, if injudiciously. And I am confident that we had a personal and individual sense of superiority over them. No doubt we were endowed, even at that early age, with the proverbial national A Child in Florence. conceit. Some one had told me that every American was a sovereign, and that I was consequently a prin- cess in my own right. This became a conviction with me, and greatly increased my self-importance. How glorious to be the citizen of a country of such magnificent gifts of citizenship 1 But to return to Mr. Powers. His statue of Cali- fornia was on exhibition at this time. This is, to my mind, the most noble and impressive of his works. The strong, resolute face, of classic outlines, and of the sterner type of beauty, bears a distinct resem- blance to the sculptor's second daughter, although by no means a portrait. It has been told me that one of the fathers of our American church, traveling in Italy, suggested an important alteration in this statue. California originally carried in her hand a bar, supposed to represent a bar of solid gold.- The idea occurred to the bishop that were this smooth bar — which might mean anything — made to represent a nugget of gold in the rough, the point of the story would be far more effectively told ; and on this idea the bishop spoke. The sculptor was impressed directly, and with all the unaffected sim- plicity of real genius he thanked his critic for the hint California now displays her symbolic nugget ; and, moreover, about her head is designed a fillet of bits of ore in the rough. A Child in Florenee. The America of Powers is another impressive and beautiful female form. A vision of the sculptor comes before my eyes, standing in front of this statue, and talking it over with a party of visitors. Such a beau- tiful, simple-mannered man — with his mild dark eyes and serene face! He wore the usual blouse and linen apron, and the cap of the sculptor. He held his chisel in his hand as he conversed. Some of his audience did not agree with him in the peculiar politi- cal views he held. But Mr. Powers would not argue, and what need ? Had he not preached his sermon in stone, and eloquently? ST. BOTOLPH'S TOWN. T ONG time ago, there were in England, as well -■— ^ as in many other countries, certain pious men and women who, for their eminent wisdom, charitable works, or lives of purity and usefulness, came to be called Saints.. Among these was a Saxon monk, the Abbot of Ikahho, St. Botolph by name, who lived about the middle of the seventh century. Botolph belonged to a noble English family. After having been educated at one of the religious houses in what was then called Belgic Gaul, he came back to England, and begged of King Ethelmund a barren spot on which to build a monastery; and here, on the Witham River, near the eastern coast of England, in what is now called Lincolnshire, 'he built his priory, and founded a town to which was given the naiQe> St. Botolph's Tovm. ST. botolph's town. Here is what an unknown poet says of it in Long- fellow's Poems of Places ; " St. Botolph's Town 1 — Hither across the plains And fens of Lincolnshire, in garb austere, There came a Saxon monk, and founded here A priory, pillaged by marauding Danes,- So that thereof no vestige now remains ; Only a name, that spoken loud and clear. And echoed in another hemisphere. Survives the sculptured walls and painted panes. St. Botolph's Town I — Far over leagues of land And leagues of sea looks forth its noble tower, And far around the chiming bells are heard." Now as the English people have a queer way of shortening names, as the years go on, that reminds one of the riddle : " Little Naii Etticoat has a white petticoat And a red nose. The longer she stands the shorter she grows." In process of time old St. Botolph's Town became reduced to simply Boston* So now you see that that "echo in another hemi- sphere " of St. Botolph's Town is, of course, the name of our own Boston, so called by its early English set- *St Botolph's Bridge in Huntingdonshire is now called Bottle-Biide I ALL THE WORLD OVER. tiers in memory of the English Boston they had left behind them ; though, as those of you who have read Higginson's History know, it had at first borne the name of Trimountain, because of its three hills ; its Indian name having been Mushauwomuck, shortened, English fashion, to Shawmut. Boston school-boys, never forget that the original Indian name meant Free-country, or Free-land ! The name Botolph means "Boat-kelp;" and so, in those old times St. Botolph came to be deemed the patron saint of mariners; and as both Bostons are commercial cities by the sea, it is eminently appropri- ate that they should bear the old Boat-helper's name. Perhaps, too, that is why "Simon Kempthom, Mariner," in Longfellow's Niew England Tragedy of fokn Endicott, cries out, when a fire is kindled in Boston's Market Place, in the year 1656, to bum the religious books of the persecuted Quakers : " Rain, rain, rain. Bones of St. Botolph, and put out this fire I " (Would not that quotation make a capital motto for a Boston Fire Company!) ST. botolph's town. The English Boston has a high church-tower, one of the most beautiful in England, " The loftiest tower of Britain's isle, In valley or on steep." It resembles the tower of Antwerp Cathedral, and is crowned by a beautiful octagonal lantern, that can be seen forty miles off. It serves, therefore, as a landmark for seamen. Another poet in Poems of Places says : " Beneath that lordly tower A simple chapel stands, In days long gone it caught the sound Of Cotton's earnest tongue." For the Reverend John Cotton, one of Boston's earliest ministers, came from Boston, England ; and it is of him that "Norton" says, in the Tragedy of John Endicott: "The lantern of .St. Botolph's ceased to burn When from the portals of that church he came To be a burning and a shining light Here in the wilderness." ALL THE WORLD OVER. And now I have to tell you of what seems to me a pleasing and surprising coincidence : In the Catholic calendar each saint has his special day; thus, you know we have St. Valentine's Day, on Feb. ,14th, when- you send the pretty valentines; St. Patrick's Day, March 17th, when our Irish citizens march in processions, "wearing of the green;" St. John's Day, June 24th, when the Canadians among tis make wreaths and garlands of the fresh young maple-leaves, because the maple is the Cana- dian emblem. Now it so happens that St. Botolph's Day is, of all days in the year for the American Boston's patron saint — what do you think? The Seventeenth of June I That Seventeenth of June, when Boston puts on her very best gala dress, when the bells all ring, and the Fire Companies form into processions, and the Military march, and the orators make speeches, and the children sing, and the great organ inakes grand patriotic music, and the stars and stripes are flung to the "Boston east-winds," and the holiday is a jolly day! Now do not you agree with me that we have found ST. botolph's town. a delightful triple coincidence, in that Boston's great holiday is Bunker Hill Day ; and Bunker Hill Day is the Seventeenth of June; and the Seventeenth of June is old St, Botolph's Day? THE WERNER COMPANY'S PUBLICATIONS. REMINGTON'S FRONTIER SKETCHES. By FicsDBKic Remikoton. a. beautiful new pictorial, dainty, in all its appointments, of highest artistic excellence. This choice collection comprises many of Remington's most notable drawings, displaying to splendid advantage his great talents and peculiar genius. 954x13 Inches. 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A hundred anecdotes of a hundred famous men, — our eminent orators, wits and sages. Who they are. How they have achieved fame. Their ups and downs in life,— Artemus Ward, Henry Ward Beecher, Josh Billings, John B. Gough, Petroleum V. Nasby, Robert J. Burdette, Dwight I,. Moody, Robert G. Ingersoll, Bill Nye, Robert Collyer, Danbury News Man, T. DeWitt Talmage, Eli Perkins, Sam Jones, Geo. W. Peck, Wen- dell Phillips, llrs. Partington, Prof. David Swing, Archdeacon Farrar, Bill Arp, etc. Large octavo volume, 7x10 inches ; 600 pages ; full of illustrations ; fine paper ; larg'e, clear type ; attractive binding. Cloth, plain edges. Price, Sl.SO. LITTLE FOLKS' LIBRARY. A set of six instructive and vastly entertaining midget volumes, written expressly for this library by carefully chosen authors. Illustrated by noted artists. Each book contains 128 pages, and from twenty to thirty-three full-page illustrations. The books are bound in Skytogan, are sewed, and have the appearance of " old folks "books in miniature. RHYME UPON RHYME. Edited by Amelia Hofek, ez-president Kindergarten Department of National Educational Association. Illustrated by Harry O. I^anders, of the Chicago Times staff. LITTLE PARHERS. By W. O. Ekobn, Ph. D,, Professor of Psychology, TTnlversity of Illinois. Illustrated l>y Wm. Ottman. CIRCUS DAY. By Geokoe Ade, special writer for the Chicago Record. Illustrated by John T. McCutcheon. FAIRY TALES. From Shakespeare. By Fat Adams Bkitton, Shakespearian writer. Illustrated by Wm. Ottman. Vol; I. The Tempest ; Vol. II. The Merchant of Venice. A Winter's Tale. STORIES FROM HISTORY. By John Hazelden, historian. Illustrated by John T. McCutcheon, of the Chicago Record staS. Price, 50 cents per set BEAUTIFUL BRITAIN. The scenery and splendors of the United Kingdom. Royal residences, palaces, castles, bowers, hunting lodges, river banks and islets, abbeys and halls, the homes of ' princes, views of noted places, historic landmarks and ancient ruins in the I,ands of the Rose and ThiiStle. A magnificent collection of views, with elaborate descriptions and many interesting historical notes. Text set with emblematic borders, printed in a tint. A fine example of up-to-date printing. I,arge quarto volume, 11^^x13^ inches, 3S5 pages, extra enameled paper. Extra English cloth, 84.50; half morocco, full gilt edges, 96.00; full morocco, full gilt edges, $7.50. A VOYAGE IN THE YACHT SUNBEAM.. " Our home on the Ocean for Eleven Months." By Lasv Brassby. The verdict of the public : ''One of the most delightful and popular narratives of travel ever written. Both entertaining and instructive." For old and young alike. Size, 6x9 inches; 48a pages; many illustrations; extra quality paper. Cloth, gold stamped, $1.50; half mo- rocco gold stamped, 93.00 ; full morocco, gold stamped, gilt edges, S2.50. For sale iy all booksellers, or sent postpaid on receipt of the advertised price. THE WERNER COMPANY, Publishers, - Akron, 0, THE WERNER COMPANTC PUBLICATIONS. MAGNER'S STANDARD HORSE BOOK. By D. Maoner. The well-known authority on training, educating, taming and treating horses. The most complete work of the kind iu existence j strongly endorsed by leading horse experts everywhere. I^rge quarto volume ; 638 pages ; over one thousand illustrations. Half Russia binding. Price, $2.S0> THE BIBLE FOR YOUNQ PEOPLE. In words of easy reading. The sweet stories of God's word. In the language of childhood. By the gifted author, Josephinb Pollard. Beautifully illustrated with nearly two hundred fifty striking original engravings and world-famous masterpieces of Sacred Art, and with magnificent colored plates. The Bible For Young People is complete in one sumptuous, massive, nearly square octavo volume, of over five hundred pages. Bound in extra cloth, ink and gold sides and back. SI. 50. GLIMPSES OF THE WORLD. Hundreds of full-page views. Portraying scenes all over the world. The views composing this superb volume are reproduced by the perfected half-tone process from photographs collected by the celebrated traveler and lecturer, John I.. Stoddard, by whom the pictures are described in graphic language. In Glimpses of the World Is presented a grand panorama of England, Scotland, and Ireland, Prance, Germany, Russia, Austria, Turkey, Italy, Spain, Asia, Africa, and North and South America. UU' questionably the finest work of the kind ever printed. Buckram. Price, $4. SO. THE WERNER POCKET ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES. A real pockel atlas 5x3^ inches, 96 pages, leatherette covers. Needed by every traveling man. Should be on eveiy desk. Price, 10 cents. THE CAPITOL COOK BOOK. 448 pages, 8^x6 inches ; weight, 1.% pounds ; over 1,40a tested recipes by Hugo Zibuait, ex-steward of the White House, and the well-known expert, Mrs. P. I^ GrLLETTB. Illustrated. Price, 50 cents. > THE WALDORF COOK BOOK. By " Oscar " of the Waldorf. The most thorough and complete treatise on Practical Cookery ever published. The author, Oscar Tschirky, Maitre d'Hotel, The Waldorf and Astoria, is acknowledged to be one of the foremost culinary authorities of the world. Elaborate directions are given for making ice creams, ices, pastries and tea and coffee. Selections may be made to gratify any taste. Original and varied recipes are given for making toothsome confections, preserves, jams, pickles and other condiments. Over 900 pages. Valuable information, indispensable to families, hotels, cafes and boarding bouses. Wholesome, palatable, economic and systematic cooking. Everything used as food is fully considered. Nearly 4,000 recipes. The best and most comprehensive cook book compiled. Special features, such as suggestions with regard to the kitchen, menus, bills of fare, the seasons, market, etc., etc. Size, Sxio}^ x 2^ inches. Bound in one large octavo volume of over 900 pages in handsome oil cloth. Price, $3.S0. THE STORY OF AMERICAN HEROISM. As told by the Medal Winners and Roll of Honor men. A remarkable collection of thrilling, historical incidents of personal adventures during and after the great Civil War. Narratives by such heroes as Gen. I,ew Wallacb, Gen. O^ O. Howard, Gen. AxJBx. Wbbb, Gen. Fitzhugh I^bb, Gen. Wadb Hampton. A war gallery of noted men and events. A massive volume of over 700 pages, printed on fine calendered paper. Illustrated with three hundred original drawings of personal exploits. English doth, emblematic design in gold and colors, S2.50. For sale by all booksellers, or sent postpaid on receipt of the advertised price. THE WERNER COMPANY, Publishers, - Akron, 0.